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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I f-w-^Ufrsumsisssssii THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF S C T LAND. VOL. XV. THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. BY THK MINISTERS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMMITTEE OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS OF THE CLERGY. VOL. XV. SUTHERLAND-CAITHSESS-ORKNEY-SHKTLAND- GKNERAI, INDEX. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD •AND SONS, EDINBURGH AND LONDON. MDCCCXLV. SUTHERLAND. CONTENTS. A8SYNT, - - - - PAGE 105 CLYNK, - - - - 149 CRIECH, - - - - 17 DORNOCH, .... 1 DURNESS, .... 82 EDDERACHILUS, - - -118 KARR, .... 66 UOLSPIE, - - - - 24 KILDONAN, .... 133 LAIRG, •> - - - j8 LOTH, .... 188 ROGART, ... 46 TONGUE, - - - - 164 Ml. ' *j r S2r7f PARISH OF DORNOCH. PRESBYTERY OF DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. ANGUS KENNEDY, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — " The town and parish of Dornoch," says the writer of ' the last Statistical Account, " derive their name from the Gaelic words Dom^Eich^ which signify a horse's foot or hoof, — there be- ing a current tradition to this eflfect: — About the year 1259, the Danes and Norwegians having made a descent on this coast, were . attacked by William, Thane or Earl of Sutherland, a quarter of \' a mile to the eastward of this town. Here the Danish general was ~.) slain, and his army beaten, and forced to retire to their ships, t^ which were not far distant. The Earl of Sutherland greatly signalized himself upon this occasion ; and appears, by his personal • valour and exertion, to have contributed very much to determine .^the fate of the day. While he singled out the Danish general, - and gallantly fought his way onward, the Thane, being by some accident disarmed, seized the leg of a horse which lay on the ground, and with that despatched his adversary. In honour of this exploit, and of the weapon with which it was achieved, this place received the name of Dorneich, or Dornoch, as it is now called. This tra- dition is countenanced by the horse-shoe, which is still retained in the arms of the burgh." Extent and Boundaries. — This parish extends in breadth 9 miles from E. to W. along the coast of the Frith of Dornoch ; and in length from S. to N. or N. W. about 15 miles. It is bounded on the east by the Little Ferry, which separates it from the pa- rish of Golspie ; on the north and west by the parishes of Ro- gart and Criech ; and on the south by the Dornoch Frith, which separates it from the county of Ross. The parish may be considered as a sort of peninsula ; the Dor- noch Frith, which extends considerably beyond it, bounding it on the south, and the estuary of the Little Ferry on the east, which SUTHERLAND. A ' 2 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. runs up to the Earthen Mound, rising with a gradual inclination from the sea to a range of hills behind. Topographical Appearances. — There are no high grounds in this parish which deserve the name of mountain, although the name has , been given to some of them, as Beintarvie, &c There is a ridge of hills behind Skibo, another behind Rearchar, and a third in the vicinity of TorboU. The ground on the side of the parish next the sea is generally flat ; in some places almost a dead level, with the exception of some sandy hillocks, interspersed here and there, some of which are naked, and some half-clad with bent and whins, afibrding a place of refuge for rabbits. There are two valleys, or, more property speaking, straths, in this parish : the one. Strath Caimaig, formed by the rivpr Cair- naig. This valley stretches south from Torboll for the space of some miles. The other. Strath Achvaich, is near the source of the river Evlix, and is of no great extent There is a considerable stretch of sea-coast in the parish, from the extreme point of the Meickle Ferry on the west, down the Dornoch Frith, to the mouth of the Little Ferry on the east, — and thence up that estuary for some miles. The shore is flat and sandy, with the exception of a few small rocks to the east of the town, and on the shore of Embo. At the Little Ferry, there is an excellent harbour, where vessels may lie in great security, after having got over the bar which runs across the entrance. Coal ships also drop anchor below the town to discharge their cargoes. Meteorology^ 8^c. — The'climate may be called mild and healthy,* considering the northern latitude. Snow seldom remains long on the sea-coast ; and for several years there have not been the same heavy and long-continued falls of snow and the same intense frosts as in former times. Among the prognostics of unfavourable weather may be noticed the tremendous noise that proceeds from the sand banks called Gizzing^Briggs^ so called from the peculiar sound they make. These banks lie almost in the middle of the channel betwixt the northern side of the Frith of Dornoch and the coast of the parish of Tarbet, and render the navigation up the Frith extremely dan- gerous, especially to strangers, without the assistance of a pilot. It is observed, also, that the appearances of the Aurora borealis, * As a proof of the mildness of our climate, pheasants have been recently intro- duced at Skibo : they are doing well, and are likely to increase. Walnuts also fre- quenUy ripen in the garden at Skibo ; and a very fine Ilex tree growing there is a proof of the fiivourable climate. DORNOCH. 3 which are sometimes very vivid, are commonly followed by cold and stormy weather. The prevaittng distempers are rheumatism, consumption, and inflammatory fevers. Hydrography. — The Frith of Dornoch extends at least twenty miles beyond this parish. From the Meickle Ferry to the Little Ferry, the water is stronglj^'impregnated with salt, and is found ex- cellent for bathing during the summer months. — In the hilly part of the parish, there are a few lakes, in which a variety of trouts is found, but generally small, and little sought after. — In this parish there are the rivers Carnaig and Evlix. The Carnaig takes its rise some miles south of Torboll, and empties itself into the Fleet on the sands of Torboll, up to which the tide at one time flowed, till arrested by the Earthen Mound. The Evlix takes its rise about the head of Strath Achvaich ; and, after running about eight or nine miles, with a considerable population on each side of it, and its banks beautifully wooded with natural birch and alders, it empties itself into the Dornoch Frith, not far from the Meickle Ferry. These rivers are not large ; but during winter thaws, or heavy rains in summer, they rise rapidly, overflow their banks, and in their progress sometimes do considerable damage to corn lands. Mineralogy, — Coal was found at Clashmore in this parish ; it was submitted to Sir Humphry Davy's inspection, and by him pro- nounced to be similar to that of Brora. The seam is said to tra- verse Ross-shire, and become visible in Coigach. There is a con- ^siderable freestone quarry in the neighbourhood of this town, from which stones for building houses and erecting fences are taken. There is another on the estate of Embo ; and several inferior ones, fit for fences, have recently been discovered in other parts of the parish. Zoology, — In this parish are to be found badgers, foxes, otters, hares, rabbits, roe-deer, and occasionally red-deer ; also grouse, black game, partridges, &c. There is nothing in this parish that deserves the name of a salmon fishing. Abundance of excellent cockles may be found near the town when the tide recedes, and westward to the Meickle Fer- ry. They are much sought after in their season, and carried to a considerable distance in the interior of the country. There are also two muscle-scalps near the Meickle Ferry, the property of Mr Dempster of Skibo. The Buckie fishermen re- 4 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. pair thither with their large boats for bait, and pay a certain sum to the proprietor for each boat-load. IL — Civil History. Eminent Men. — Among the eminent men connected with this parish may be mentioned Sutherland, Lord Duffus, who had a re- sidence in Skelbo, the ruins of which are still visible: also the Gor- dons of Embo, now represented by Sir Orford Gordon, who re- sides in England. The heads of these families acted a conspi- cuous part in the feudal quarrels and wars of their times. Connected with this parish also, by purchase of lands and by re- sidence, were George Dempster, Esq. of Dunnichen, and John Ha- milton Dempster, Esq. his brother. These gentlemen were of a younf^r branch of the ancient family of Dempster of Muresk, in the county of Aberdeen, as may be seen by reference to Douglas' Baronage of Scotland : * and their grandfather had acquired, shortly after the year 1700, the estate of Dunnichen, in Forfar- shire, which is now the property, and gives the designation, of the elder branch of his descendants. Mr George Dempster purchased the estate of Skibo in the year 1786, and Mr J. H. Dempster shortly after purchased the estates of Pulrossie and Over- Skibo. The estates of Skibo and Over- Skibo had been purchased from gentlemen of the name of Gray. But the estate of Skibo had also been possessed for a few years -previous to the last Mr Gray by the Honourable George Mackay of Reay, by whom the older portions of its woods were planted, and to whoso taste and industry that part of the parish is much in- debted. Mr George Dempster was for twenty-eight years member of Par- liament for the Dundee and St Andrews district of burghs. He was most active and assiduous in devising measures himself, and in encouraging measures planned by others, which had for th^r ob- ject the improvement of his native country. He took an active and leading part in promoting its manufactures, its fisheries, and its agri- culture. He was a gentleman of great benevolence and suavity of manners. While he and his brother remained in Skibo, they were much respected by all ranks; and as landlords, they were kind and indulgent to their tenants. Mr Dempster died a. d. 1818^ aged 86. The noble family of Sutherland have a burying-place within the church, where the mortal remains of several of its members are laid. Over it a neat monument has been erected to the memory of the last Earl and the Countess of Sutherland, the parents of the now • P. 5iU, DORNOCH. 5 Duchess Countess of Sutherland, who both died in the flower of youth, the one ten days after the other, at Bath, in the year 1766, and were buried in one grave in the church at Holyrood- House. His lordship had only attained the age of thirty-two, and her lady- ship that of twenty-six. This amiable pair were not less ennobled by their shining virtues than by their high rank. Their humane dispositions and condescending manners had greatly endeared them to all orders of society : and their untimely death was deeply felt and universally deplored. A melancholy event which occurred in July 1833 added to the number of those belonging to the noble family of Sutherland, whose mortal remains are deposited in the cathedral of Dornoch. George Granville Leveson Gower, first Duke of Sutherland, died at Dun- robin Castle on the 19th day of July 1833. His Grace's remains are laid in a place prepared for them in the south aisle of the ca- thedral ; over which, it is said, the Duchess Countess of Sutherland proposes to raise a statue of his Grace, to be executed by Chantry of London. The death of the Duke of Sutherland produced a deep and universal feeling of regret among all ranks in this country; for his Grace was highly respected by all as a nobleman of most honourable principles, and having the comfort of his numerous te- nantry at heart* His funeral was attended by the gentlemen and tenantry of thirteen parishes in this county, and by the tenantry of four parishes from his Grace's estates in Ross-shire ; and the procession strikingly testified to the high estimation in which his Grace was held, f Land-owners, — These are, the Duchess Countess of Sutherland ; George Dempster, Esq. of Skibo; Major George Gunn Munro of Poyntzfield; and Mrs Gordon of Embo. None of the principal land-owners reside in the parish, except Mr Dempster, Parochial Registers, — A register of baptisms has been kept, though sometimes not very regularly, since 13th August 1730 ; and a register of marriages, since 13th August 1734. These registers have been always under the charge of the parochial schoolmaster for the time being, who acts also as clerk to the kirk-session, and receives a small fee for every act of registration. When the school • Vide Golspie. f While preparations were making in the cathedral for the Duke of Sutlierland's funeral, a leaden coffin was discovered in the buiying-placeof tlic noble family, having a plate bearing an inscription that it contained the remains of John, the twentieth Earl of Sutherland, who " died June 27, 1733," a little more than a century before the Duke's death. His Lordship's coffin was covered with another, and laid up with all due reject and care in the same burying-placc again. 6 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. became vacant, the registration was much neglected. Since the year 1817, however, both registers have been kept correctly. Great inconvenience, and even loss to individuals, having been experienced from the want of a register of deaths, to which refe- rence could be made, — a register of that description has been kept by the minister of the parish since January 1821, which, if con- tinued by his successors, may prove useful to succeeding genera- tions. Antiquities. — The picturesque remains of the old castle of Skel- bo, formerly the residence of the family of Sutherland, Lord Duf- fus, still remain. This castle was built on an eminence, rising ab- ruptly from the sea side, near the Little Ferry. The castle of Skibo, once a residence of the Bishops of Caith- ness and Sutherland, was demolished in the last century. Within its walls the celebrated Marquis of Montrose was confined subse- quently to his being taken in Assynt ; and from Skibo he was con- veyed to Edinburgh, where he was executed. In memory of the event which gave its name to the burgh, a stone pillar was erected on the spot, supporting at the top a cross, encompassed by a circle, which went under the name of the Earl's cross. The lapse of ages had, however, somewhat defaced this monument. But it has been repaired, and is still standing. III. — Population. By the Government census of 1821, the population of the town and parish was found to be 3100. By the census of 1831, it was 3380 ; and would have been 300 more, had there not been a par- tial emigration to British America to that amount from the parish during that and the previous year. It is but justice to the landed proprietors to add, that this emigration was purely voluntary on the part of the emigrants ; that most of them left the parish in comfortable circumstances ; and that the situations which they left open were soon occupied by others. The population, it may be safely asserted, is still on the increase. The increase of population may be accounted for by persons" of various classes coming from the east and south country, and settling in the parish, — by a general inclination to marry young : when out farm-servants, of whom the number is considerably increased by the erection of large farms, get barracks for themselves, they marry : when a young man gets a croft of land, he marries : when a fisherman becomes possessed of a quarter share of a boat, he builds a house, and marries. Second marriages also, of which DORNOCH. 7 there are not a few, contribute to the increase of the population. There is one instance of a marriage in which both parties were married for the fourth time. 1. Number of fiunilite in the parish, .... 644 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - - 59& in trade, manufactures, and handicraft, 41 2. The aferage number of marriages, for 7 years, - - 21-f births, for the same period, - . 82^ of the whole number of births during the 7 years, 900 were males, and 279 females. aTerage number of deaths, for 7 years, ... 441 There is 1 person insane in the parish; 3 fatuous ; 3 blind, — 2 of them by small-pox; and 1 dumb. Language^ Habits^ Sfc. of the People. — The vernacular language is still the Gaelic ; from which also almost all the names of places are manifestly derived. In that language, haile signifies a town. Hence Tor-^aile^ Kerr^haile^ Eun-iaile^ Skia-baile^ compounded of that word and others, signifying respectively mount, rock, fowl, wing; and these names indicate the figure, situation, or other cir- cumstances of the places to which they are applied. Some places in the vicinity of the cathedral have been denominated from the offices of those who formerly held them ; as Crofn Espig^ Au^ chintreasurich^ Auchinchanter^ signifying the Bishop's, Treasurer's, and Chanter's fields. This language has, however, lost ground considerably during the last twenty-five years, owing to the influx into the parish, from various parts of the kingdom, of persons who speak the English language, but especially to the introduction of schools, first Gaelic and then English, into every district of the parish . The predilection for the Gaelic language is, however, still manifest, from the well-known facts, that the common people prefer to use it in their ordinary intercourse, and that larger congregations at- tend public worship during the Gaelic services than during the English. Nevertheless, the English is making rapid encroach- ments on our ancient language; and it is not improbable that, in the course of sixty or seventy years, the latter may be ex- tinct. The habits of the people in regard to cleanliness have improved considerably. Instead of their feal-houses, in which it was scarcely possible to maintain cleanliness, they have now generally neat cot- tages, built of stone and clay, and harled with lime, having chim- nies, instead of the fire-place being in the middle of the house, as formerly, — there being then no outlet for smoke except by the door, or a hole in the roof. A great improvement has also taken place in their dress, parti- 8 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. cularly Id that of the young of both sexes. This also they have learned from those who came from other parts to reside in the parish. Potatoes have become the principal article of food here, as, in- deed, they are throughout all the Highlands. They serve as the chief subsistence of the people during one-half of the year, and with some even for two-thirds. Many of the people come from a a>nsiderable distance for cockles, of which abundance may be had in their season on the sands of Dorno(;h. They go also for haddocks to the fishing town of Embo ; and since the herring-fish- ing was established at Helmsdale, many go there, purchase and cure herrings, and carry them home in casks in their own small carts : they thus provide themselves with wholesome food. The people here are rather above the middle size. They are in general well-made and handsome, and the women, comely. On the whole, they are a moral and religious people ; industri- ous, peaceable, and respectful to their superiors. With very few exceptions they regularly attend public worship ; and their decent appearance on Sabbath days indicates their comfortable circum- stances. Poaching and illicit distillation are now scarcely known among them. During the last three years there were 4 illegitimate births : but in three of the cases the parties were afterwards married. IV.— Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — During the last fifteen or twenty years agricultural improvements have been carried on with wonderful activity, and to a great extent, in this parish, especially on the Sutherland estate. On that estate, there are 4000 acres of • arable land under the plough, besides 2000 acres of waste ground improved, and carrying crops. Improvements. — Among the improvements on waste-land it may be mentioned that the fresh-water lake, at a place called Balvraid, near the county road, has been thoroughly drained and prepared, and is now laid down in crop. The highly improved appearance of the spot holds out a prospect of remunerating \he expense in a few years. It may be observed also, that, by the erection of tjie earthen mound across the estuary of the Little Ferry, from thirty to forty acres of valuable carse ground, over which the tide for- merly used to flow, have been brought under the plough, and are DORNOCH. 9 now carrying heavy crops of wheat, &c. A still greater extent has been reclaimed on the Grolspie side of the estuary. The Contents of the principal farms on the Sutherland estate may be stated as follows : — Sidera, 196 acres ; Evlix, 154 ; Farms, (1820, 1821, 1822,) 344; Achley, 91; Pitgrudie, 133; Auchurach andAuchinchaunter, 84; Coull; 203; Skelbo,323; East Balvraid, 192; West Balvraid, 54; Cambusmore, 104; Torboll, 145; Pronsienain, 89 ; Pronsienaird, 132 ; Kinauld, 100 ; Trentham, 150, — all imperial acres. The parks are, at an average, from 10 to 15 acres each. The average rent of old arable land is L. 1, 5s. per acre ; — that of improved waste land, 5s. Besides the principal farms which have been stated above, there are a great many lots, or small holdings, ranking from two to five or six acres, which are receiving yearly accessions from waste land by the industry of the occupiers ; and though the average rent of improved waste land be stated at 5s. per acre, it is a well- known fact, that many of these cottars pay only a rent of Is. each, some 2s., and so on, in a gradual scale, — an increase of rent not being so much the object of the noble proprietors, as the improve- ment of the soil, and the comfort of their numerous tenantry ; in which liberal objects they have succeeded. On the estate of Skibo there are 800 acres of arable land : and besides a great number of smaller holdings, there are four large farms, highly improved, and rented each at about L. 150. On this estate also, a good deal has been done in reclaiming waste land ; but much more in the parish of Criech, where the greater part of Mr Dempster's estate lies, and in which he has very ex- tensive plantations of firs and hard-wood. On the estate of the Duchess Countess of Sutherland in this parish, there are plantations to the extent of 2500 acres, consisting of Scotch firs and larches, birch, and hard-wood. To these it is in contemplation to make considerable additions. There are be- sides 300 acres of natural birch and alder. On Mr Dempster's estate there are plantations to the extent of 350 acres, a considerable part of which is hard-wood. There are some ashes and planes of great size. The rest consists of Scotch firs and larches. On the estate of Embo there may be from 30 to 40 acres of Scotch fir, but, though old, very stinted in growth. On the estate of Embo there is only one large farm, consist- ing of about 200 acres of arable land, of which from 30 to 40 10 SUTHERLANDSHIKE. have been reclaimed from waste land. It is enclosed and subdi- vided by stone fences, and in a high state of cultivation. The rest of the estate is let to small tenants^ and they, of late, have adopted a rotation of crops. Major Gunn Munro's estate in this parish lies in the vicinity of the burgh, and the greater part of it is well-farmed by a gentleman residing in the town. The rest of it is also well-farmed by two in- dustrious individuals, who now grow wheat, where they formerly cut peats. The steadings on the large farms throughout the parish are generally good and commodious. Attached to several of them is a thrashing-machine. These are of various powers, according to the size of the farm. Some of them are wrought by water, and some by horses. The ordinary duration of leases here is nineteen years. Live-stock, — As to the live-stock in the parish, it is only ne- cessary to observe, that the breeds of black cattle and horses, particularly the latter, have been greatly improved of late years. Cheviot sheep have also been introduced into store farms, and have succeeded well. Husbandry, — The five-course shift is the rotation of crops adopted in the parish, — 1. oats ; 2. turnips and potatoes ; 3. barley and grass seeds ; 4. hay or pasture ; and, 5. pasture. On account of the low price of barley, the wheat husbandry has been recently introduced. The produce is sent on consignment to Leith, where it is sold at the prices of the time ; but the grower has to submit to a heavy deduction for freight, agency, &c. — not less than. 4s. per quarter. Bute of Wages, — The wages of farm-servants are various. The principal servant has generally L. 8 per annum, six bolls of oat- meal, a pint of skimmed milk per diem, or an agreed equivalent for it, — some eight, some ten barrels of coals, a certain extent of land for potatoes, and a free house. Young men hired by the half-year have from L. 2 to L. 2, 10s., with cost and lodgings. The wages of female-servants for the half-year are generally from L. 1, 10s. to L. 2, with victuals in the house. The wages of able- bodied men for day-labour are* from Is. to Is. 6d. ; those of the women, 6d., except when at harvest work, when they have Is. ; but no victuals in either case. The daily operations of various kinds that are necessary on DORNOCH. 1 1 large farms furnish employment to all in their vicinity who are able and willing to work. Quarries, 8fc. — There is a considerable freestone quarry in the neighbourhood of this town, from which stones for buUding houses and erecting fences are taken : and there have been several other quarries recently opened in other parts of the parish ; but none of these are equal to that in the vicinity of Dornoch, except one at Embo. Fisheries. — There is no regular fishery in the parish. There is, indeed, a colony of fishermen at Embo ; but they only fish for haddocks, small cods, flounders, &c. which they sell in the fresh state. The women carry the fish in creels on their backs to this town, and throughout the parish, and sell it as they best can. The fishermen also frequently go across with their boats to the shore of Tain, where they dispose of their fish to advantage. Of late years they have engaged in the herring-fishing, by hiring them- selves to fish-curers for the season, — the fish deliverable in the fresh state at so much per crane, and the nets being provided by the fish- ermen. The curers allow a certain quantity of whisky to each boat's crew. To the credit of the fishermen at Embo, it should be observed, that, with a few exceptions, they are sober and in- dustrious, and some of them pious. V. — Parochial Economy. Burgh. — Dornoch is the only market-town in the parish, and the only Royal Burgh in the county. It was erected into a royal burgh by a charter from Charles I. a. d. 1628. The council consists of fifteen members, including the provost, four bailies, a dean of guild, and treasurer. By the constitution and practice of the burgh, four of the councillors are annually changed. This is one of five which compose what is called the northern district of burghs. It has no landed property, nor any other source of revenue except the cus- toms levied at six annual fairs held here, and which are on the de- cline. But this may be accounted for by the recent establishment of two other fairs, — one in the village of Golspie, and another in the parish of Clyne, — and by the great number of retail-shops found here and there through the parish and the county. The population of the town is little more than 500, but appears to be rather on the increase. The Sheriff-substitute and Sheriff- clerk, one writer, two messengers-at-arms, reside in the town. We have also a post-office. The northern royal mail-coach passes through the town twice every day. This is an advantage to the burgh, as 12 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. strangers travelling by the coach for business or for pleasure, may find good entertainment in a commodious and well-kept inn. There are here also five retail-shopkeepers, two saddlers, one baker, one butcher, (though not in constant employment,) three blacksmiths, three shoemakers, several house-carpenters, masons, tailors, and weavers. Within the last twenty years there was a considerable number of small uncomfortable feal-houses in the town ; but these gradual- ly gave way to neat and comfortable cottages, most of them two stories high. The streets are clean, and the approaches to the town from every quarter have been much improved. The com- munication with the town is open in every direction by excellent roads and bridges, which are kept in annual repair. The Maca- damizing system is adopted on the county roads. Indeed, the whole parish is intersected with roads and bridges ; and with these there is another great advantage, — there are no tolls. Not a toll is to be seen in the county of Sutherland. Hence, carriages, gigs, and carts may be seen on Sabbath days carrying some of the good people to church. Ecclesiastical State. — The church stands in the middle of the town. It consists of three aisles of the old cathedral, — the fourth has been long in ruins ; but these venerable ruins point out to the admiring beholder what was their ancient grandeur. Dornoch was formerly the seat of the Bishop of Caithness. The precise time of the erection of the See is not ascertained. Andrew, Bishop of Caithness, had his seat here in 1150: and in 1222, Gilbert Murray was consecrated bishop. The latter is sup- posed to have built the cathedral. He died at Scrabster, in Caith- ness, where the bishops also had a residence in 1245; and was af- terwards canonized. A statue of him is still shewn in the church of Dornoch, under the name of St Gilbert, but it is not entire. The last bishop, Andrew Wood, was translated hither from the Isles in the year 1680, and remained till the Revolution in 1688. In the year 1570, the cathedral, (except the steeple,) was burnt by the master of Caithness ; but it " hath been of late re-edified and repaired by Sir Robert Gordon, tutour of Southerland, which work was interprysed and begun by John Erie of Southerland, last deceased, a little before his death." At what time the ca- thedral received its present roof, which is comparatively modem, I cannot ascertain. For a long time after it was occupied as a Presbyterian place of worship, the congregation met on the 3 DORNOCH. 13 ground-floor, — which was also occupied as a burying-ground for fa- milies of distinction. But this was found to be most inconvenient and unwholesome, both for the minister and congregation, the roof being stupendously high, and the house very cold in winter. To remedy these inconveniences, it was agreed by all concerned, about sixty years ago, that the church should be lofted at the height of seven feet from the ground. To this upper story, which is the present place of worship, the ascent is by stairs from without. The last repair which was given to the church was in 1616, when its lofty roof was ceiled, and additional accommodation was given by the erection of a gallery in the easter aisle ; notwithstanding which, there is not yet sufficient accommodation for an increasing popu- lation. Another gallery is still necessary. The number of sit- tings in the church cannot be exactly ascertained; they are probably from 1000 to 1100; but it is a well known fact, that the pews are generally crowded to inconvenience, and that, in fine weather, some have to sit on the tops of the pews for want of room. Arrange- ments are, however, in contemplation, which may remedy this in- convenience. * The pews have been divided by the heritors according to their valued rents ; and their tenants have free access to them. So far as I know, there are no seat-rents exacted. The poor sit on the forms connected with the communion tables, and in the passages. The great body of the people are within six miles of the church; some at the distance of seven or eight miles, and in one district about twelve miles. The people in this last district are within a mile of the parish church of Rogart, where they attend public wor- ship. They are, however, catechised annually by their own parish minister. The manse was built about sixty years ago. The last repairs to it were given in the year 1825, when some additional accommo- dations were given by the heritors. It ought to be recorded here, to the honour of the heritors of the parish, that no meeting of pres- bytery was rendered necessary during the last eighteen years to obtain the accommodations which the clergyman required. The glebe is about twelve imperial acres, all arable; but the greater part of it is of little value, the soil being so very sandy and * Since writing the above, the Duchess Countess of Sutherland has announced her intention of repairing the wester aisle» which has been so long in ruins, at her own expense, and to fit it up as a part of the place for public worship. Also to re- pair the other aisles of the cathedraL The work is to be commenced next spring. There are to be some free sittings for the poor. 14 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. light, that during the high winds which prevail from March to June, it is drifted in every direction like fresh laid snow. The stipend was augmented on 6th February 1832, from four- teen chalders, and L.8, 6s. 8d., to seventeen chalders, and L. 10 for providing the communion elements. The victual is half meal, half barley, imperial standard weights and measures. There is one catechist in the parish, appointed by the Com- mittee on the Royal Bounty, with a salary of L. 7. There is no chapel of any description here : no Dissenters from the Established church; and only one family of Seceders, who almost regularly attend public worship in the parish church. The average annual amount of parochial collections for religious and charitable purposes may be stated at L. 28 or L. 30. Education. — There are seven schools in the parish, of which three are in the town, — the parochial school, a female school on the second patent of the Society in Scotland for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and another female school withd\it salary, the teacher depending on the school-fees. In the landward parish are two Fchools on the General Assembly's scheme, and two on that of the Glasgow Auxiliary Gaelic School Society; besides which, the people in remote small districts hire a young lad to teach their children dur- ing the winter quarter ; after which the school breaks up till next winter. The Holy Scriptures and the Assembly's Shorter Cate- chism are taught in all these schools. Many are taught also to read the Bible in Gaelic. Dr Thomson's English school-books are in- troduced into most of them. Arithmetic, book-keeping, English grammar, and Latin, are taught. The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum salary, with a large house and garden. The school- fees are of no great value, — not exceeding L. 6. The teachers belonging to the Glasgow Society have L, 14 each : those employ- ed by the General Assembly's Committee, have each L. 20 of sa- lary, besides fees. Suitable dwelling and school-houses are pro- vided by the heritors in all these cases. The schoolmistress at Dornoch has a salary of L. 8, with a good house and garden. It may be observed in general, that the fees in all these schools are of very little value ; that, so desirous are the people to give the advantages of education to their children that some are sent to school at the age of five ; that female education is better attended to than formerly ; and that during last winter nearly 500 attended schools. About 7(J0 persons in the parish are unable to' read, above six 4 DORNOCH. 15 years of age ; and about 250, betwixt the years of six and fif- teen. Friendly Society. — There is a friendly society in this town of some standing; but it does not appear to be in a prosperous state, as last year its dissolution was talked of. Savings Bank. — A branch of a general savings bank for the county was lately set up here. Nothing can yet be said of it but that the people shew a desire to vest their savings in it. It is under the patronage of the noble family of Sutherland, who give every encouragement to the people to vest their money in it, and to promote provident habits among the working-classes. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The number of persons receiving parochial aid may be considered on an average at from 120 to 130. The funds for the poor, which are distributed only once a year, consist of collections made in church on Sabbath days, in- cluding what is given on marriage occasions, which may amount to L. 36 ; the dues for the use of the mortcloths, amounting to about L. 3, 10s. ; an annual gratuity of L. 6 from the Duchess Countess of Sutherland ; and L. 25, the interest of L. 500. The late Duke of Sutherland, who did not need to borrow money, very humanely took this sum from the kirk-session, and allowed the above liberal inte- rest for it. The lowest sum which is given to any of the poor is 6s,, the highest is L. 1, 5s. There is a strong tendency among the lower classes to apply for relief to the parish funds. It must be added, that the Duchess gives also annual gratuities to several poor and aged individuals, — one of which, I know, amounts to L. 4 ; and that, besides these stated gratuities, the Noble family always gives a liberal supply of victuals to the poor on their estates, in time of scarcity. Prisons, — The only prison in the county is in this town. It was once the bishop's palace, which, from its remains, appears to have been a stately edifice. In 1567, George Earl of Caithness sent his son John with some of his people, to invest the town and Castle of Dornoch, of which the Murrays, a tribe attached to the noble family of Sutherland, had possessed themselves. The Mur- rays, no longer able to maintain the ground they had occupied, retired to the castle; upon which the master of Caithness burnt the town and cathedral; but still the besieged defended themselves in the castle for a month. At length, however, they were obliged to capitu- late. Whether the castle was dismantled at that time, I have no means of ascertaining ; but it is well known that it lay in ruins for 1 6 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. a great length of time, till, in 1814, it was roofed and repaired; it has since been occupied as a court-house, a record-room, and a jail. The number of prisoners in the jail during the year 1833 was 20. Of these three were for debt, six for smuggling, one for theft, and ten for assaults of various kinds. The prison is, upon the whole, comfortable and well-secured. One of the surgeons in the parish has a salary for attending any of the prisoners when sick. /ni», 4*c. — In the town there is an excellent principal inn ; and also two houses licensed to sell whisky. One of these with the inn would be quite sufficient There arc two other respectable inns in the parish, one at the Meickle Ferry, and another at Clashmore. There arc three licensed houses in the parish, all of which could be well dispensed with, as they prove injurious to the morals and the means of the people, particularly of the young, among the work- ing-classes. It should be stated to the credit of the magistrates here, as well as throughout the county, that they have suppressed several of these dram-shops. Fueh — Coals imported from Newcastle have been used here by the better classes in town and country, for the last twenty years at least They are purchased at Dornoch, at from Is. lOd. to 2s. per barrel, and carried home in carts. Peats are still used by the com- mon people. September 1834. PARISH OF CRIECH. PRESBYTERY OP DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. MURDO CAMERON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Extent and Boundaries, — This large parish extends from the parish of Dornoch on the east to the parish of Assynt on the west, — a distance of not less than thirty-five miles. Its breadth is not, however, proportionate, varying from five to seven or eight miles in the eastern part, and narrowing towards the west. It is bounded on the north by the parishes of Dornoch and Lairg ; and the Frith of Dornoch and its continuation, the river Oykell, forms its southern boundary. Topographical Appearances. — The greater part of the parish is mountainous, or rather hilly, for, excepting at its junction with As- synt, there is no very great elevation. It contains numerous lakes, including those of Migdale, Gour, Laggan, Buie, Laro, &c.,— which all abound with small trout ; but none of these lakes are of any great extent. They have been exa- mined and found to contain no marl. Hydrography. — The rivers which find their way to the Frith of Dornoch in this parish are the Shinn, the Oykell and the Cassley, — the confluence of the two last of which forms the Frith, and is the point to which the tide flows. These rivers all contain salmon, and are regularly fished. Chalybeate springs are numerous. Mineralogy. — A mineralogical survey of part of this parish, made in 1789 by R. E. Raspe, a German mineralogist, employ- ed by Mr Dempster, reports that it does not contain any minerals worthy of notice. Coal, which is found in an adjoining parish, is not found here : and it is uncertain whether there be limestone. There is at Rosehall a small vein of fine-grained, ponderous, solid, bluish-gray manganese, as perfect and free of iron as is SUTHERLAND. B 18 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. ever seen. It is not, however, above five inches wide, and would not repay labour. Soil — There is not in the parish very much variety of soil : the usual gravelly and peaty soil of the mountains preponderates over every other. There is some good clay soil at Pulrossie, at Flode, at Rosehall, and elsewhere on the shores of the Frith. At Rosehall is to be found fine natural meadow pasture ; and the hills are pastured by sheep and cattle. IL — Civil History. Land-owners. — The land-owners of this parish, and their valued rents, are as follows : Scots. George Dempster, Esq. of Skibo, - - L. 1195 Her Grace the Duchess of Sutherland, • - 703 14 B Sir Charles Ross, Bart., - - - - 431 18 Right Honourable Lady Ashburton, - - 400 Dugald Gilchrist, Esq. of Ospisdale, - - . 253 6 8 L. 2963 19 7 Tlie last is the only resident heritor ; and the real rent, exclu- sive of salmon-fishings, may be about L. 3700 Sterling per an- num. Antiquities, — In the 11th or 12th century a contest of the inhabitants with the Danes is recorded to have occurred at Drin- leah, near Bonar Bridge, whence the invaders were driven back with great loss to their ships at Portnacoulter, — now the Meikle Ferry. The extraordinary number of tumuli or graves on the scene of action, while they attest the truth of the tradition, and the great- ness of the slaughter, cannot fail to excite the wonder of reflect- ing persons at the great numbers who must have been engaged, and the consequent density of the population at that remote time. Many of these tumuli have been opened, but nothing was found except three or four large stones artificially arranged in each. On the summit of the Doune or hill of Criech there is a spe- cimen of those very puzzling relics of antiquity, the vitrified forts. It is considered by persons conversant with these appearances as a good specimen, and has been visited and described by Sir George S. Mackenzie, Bart., and by others. III. — Population. Population in 1801, • • . . . 1974 IBll, 1969 1B21, 2354 1831, ----- . 2562 . CRIECH. 19 Number of families in the parish in 1831, .... 525 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - ' - 407 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, and handicraft. 37 The Gaelic language is spoken in the parish ; but the English has now gained so much ground, that it may be said to be spoken by the greater number of the inhabitants. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy — Wood, — There is a natural oak-wood of great beauty at Ledmore, the divided property of the Duchess of Sutherland and Mr Dempster of Skibo, of about 150 acres. The bark of the portion which belongs to the latter owner was sold last year for L. 500, and that of the former was sold some years ago for a much larger sum. There is also some natural oak and birch at Rosehall, and in one or two other places ; but, excepting some large oaks, it is not valuable, nor attended to. The oldest planted wood in the parish is the hard-wood at Os- pisdale, and the fir-wood at Rosehall ; but this last, from being grown in a soil too rich, is considered of bad quality. A considerable extent, chiefly of fir and larch, was planted thirty or forty years ago on the estates of Skibo and Pulrossie ; and the present proprietor has already added upwards of 1500 acres, con- sisting of larch and fir, (chiefly the former,) with oak and other forest trees in smaller quantity. Mr Houston of Creech, (who has recently sold his property to the Duke of Sutherland) and Mr Gilchrist of Ospisdale, have also planted considerably; and, on the whole, the extent of growing wood in this parish cannot be less than 2500 acres, and on the estate of Skibo it is yearly increasing. All sorts of hard-wood sell readily, and at good prices, and the ex- port of pit-wood from the fir plantations is considerable. It has been found impracticable to ascertain the quantity of land cultivated and uncultivated, and the amount of gross pro- duce. Rent — The largest corn farm in the parish yields about L. 300 per annum, and there are half a dozen others giving betwixt L. 50 and L. 200. The rent of sheep grazing is from 2s. to 4s., and of cattle from 5s. to 10s. according to the size of the cattle and quality of the pasture. Husbandry, — There are no sheep-farms in this parish, except one at Auchinduich, occupied by Mr Marshall, the property of the Duchess of Sutherland, and one in Inverchasly, occupied by Messrs 20 SUTHERLANDSHIRE* Rose and Murray, the property of Sir Charles Ross of Balna- gown. Baronet The breed of sheep in both these farms is chiefly Cheviot, and generally fetches the highest price. Improvements in these farms are carried to the highest pitch. The reclaiming of waste lands, draining, and irrigation, has been carried on in this parish by landlords and tenants, of late years, rapidly and suc- cessfully. The general duration of leases is from seven to nine- teen years. The farm-buildings on large farms, as well as inclo- sures, are in general complete and comfortable, and the small far- mers and cottars follow the example of their superiors. Quarries, — There are in the parish two quarries of whinstone, both very hard to work. Fisheries, — The only valuable river fishery is the salmon fish- ing of the river Shin, the property of the Duchess of Sutherland, who also has in lease all the salmon fishings along the Kyle, be- longing to the estate of Skibo, which are worked and generally with success by fishers employed under her Grace. Naviffotion, — No ships or vessels of any description belong to the parish. But several vessels trade to Bonar Bridge, of from 30 to 60 tons burden, importing meal, coals, and lime ; and ex- porting fir props, wool, oak-bark, corn, and salmon. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Town and Villages, — There are no market-towns in the parish, and the nearest is Dornoch. A village and cotton manufactory were established at Spinning- dale, by Mr Dempster of Dunnichen, in the latter part of the last century; but the destruction of the factory by fire in 1809 has been followed by the decay of the village. The centrical position of Bonar Bridge, situated at the great en- trance of the county, and at the junction of the Assynt, Reay, Caithness, and Ross-shire roads, has pointed it out since the erec- tion of the magnificent iron bridge in 1813, as the site of a fu- ture town. Mr Dempster is fcuing ground here, and a village has already arisen, which is gradually increasing by that slow and natural growth which experience has shown to be the most secure foundation of a town. The great Kyle markets, as they are cal- led, for the sale of the cattle of Sutherland and Caithness, are now held here, in the months of July, August, and September. A suit- able piece of ground is inclosed for the purpose, and the conve- nience of the public will be greatly promoted by the desertion of the CRIECH. 21 very inconvenient place at Portenleik, where they have hitherto been held. Bonar Bridge is already a place of considerable export and im- port, having the advantage of depth of water sufficient for ship- ping. There is no village at Newton, but it is used as a shipping place for the wool, com, wood, &c of this parish. Means of Communication, Bonar Bridge. — The first and most useful among the means of communication in the parish is the bridge of Bonar, consisting of one large metal arch and two smal- ler stone arches : it opens the communication between Sutherland and Ross-shires, as well as to the most distant parts of the coun- try, south and north. It was erected by Government and the county ; as were also the roads leading from it The first road, from Bonar to Assynt and the west coast, has three bridges ; one of two arches over the river Shin ; one of a single arch over the river Caslie ; and one of a single arch over the river Oykell. This public road runs through the parish from Bo- nar to within a few miles of the manse of Assynt, a distance of about thirty miles. The second public road from Bonar is by Lairg to Tongue, at the north coast. The third public road from Bonar (recently opened) is made through the middle of the pa- rish in mosses and hills, towards the Fleet Mound and the east coast of Sutherland. It extends within the parish a distance of seven miles, and has a bridge of one arch over a small river. The fourth public road from Bonar is towards Dornoch and the east coast This road within the parish extends a distance of eight miles, and there are two small bridges upon it at Spinningdale and Ospisdale. These four roads were made by Government and the county. There are, besides, several private roads with bridges through the different inhabited straths and glens ; which render the communication through the parish both easy and comfortable in all seasons of the year. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is situated near the shore, about nine miles from the east end of the parish, and up- wards of thirty miles from the west end. It is convenient for the greater part of the population from the river Shin in the west, to Ospisdale in the east The church was built in 1790, has been repaired at different periods, and is now in a good state. It accom- modates 500 persons. There are no free seats, except the commu- nion forms occupied by the poor. 22 6UTHERLANDSHIRE. The manse was built in 1780, and has undergone many repairs. The glebe is about five acres in extent, and would be valued at L. 7. The stipend is fourteen chalders of victual, half barley, and half oatmeal, paid in money betwixt Yule and Candlemas, by the fiar prices ; there are also L. 10 of money allowed for com- munion elements. There is a mission at Rosehall in the west end of the parish, connected with the Royal Bounty. There is also a catechist paid by the Royal Bounty the sum of L. 7, 10s. with a small gratuity from the people. There are no Dissenters or Seceders of any description in this parish. 400 families attend the church, and from these about 700 persons. Divine service is generally well attended by all ranks. The number of communicants attending the parish and mission- churches may average about 90. The average amount of collections yearly made in the parish and mission-churches for religious societies is from L. 9 to L. 12. Education, — There are three schools, viz. the parochial school in Criech, taught by Mr Patrick Murray and his son, Mr David Murray, student of philosophy. There are also two Assembly schools, one at Inverchaslie, and another at Whiteface. Both the Assembly schools are well attended and very successful, as may be seen by the Reports. The branches taught there are English and Gaelic reading and spelling ; writing, arithmetic, and book- keeping, and Latin, &c. The salary of the parish schoolmaster is L. 30 ; and the school- fees are from Is. to 3s. per quarter, according to the branches of education taught, but do not yield above L. 10 a year. The pa- rochial teacher had hardly any accommodation for upwards of twen- ty years back, being obliged to hve in a house that was falling over his head ; and, for the safety of his own life and that of his family, was obliged to quit that ruin and live in a hired house. The heri- tors promise to build one, but it is not yet begun. The ex- pense of education is various, — from 5s. to 14s. per annum. The people in general are very much alive to the benefits of education ; so much so, that the families who are at a distance from school club together to support a teacher that goes from house to house once a- week. Inveran and Linside in the mission are seven miles distant from any school, and fit present employ a teacher, who has generally CRIECII. 23 from forty to sixty attendiughis school at Inversliin. Two additional schools are required, one at Inveran and neighbourhood, and one in Aurdale of Airdines, at each of which there might be an at- tendance of from forty to sixty. A very great and visible change to the better has taken place in the conduct and morals of the people within the last twenty years, during which time not less than eighteen teachers were introduced among them in different parts of the parish ; all these with stated salaries from different benevo- lent societies. There are still about 800 persons in the parish above six years of age unable to read, and about 400 in that state betwixt the vears of six and fifteen. Poor avd Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers at the parish church and mission may average about 140, who receive annually from the funds collected in church from ds. to 6s. each. The annual collections in the churches may amount to L. 16: and there is also the interest of L. 150, a fund in the Commercial Bank, Tain. The total amount for annual distribution is about L. 20. Inns^ Alehouses^ S^c. — Tliere is one inn at Bonar, and five or six alehouses in different parts of the parish ; but the people sel- dom exceed a necessary refreshment. September 1834. PARISH OF GOLSPIE. PRESBYTERY OF DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. ALEXANDER MACPHERSON, A.M., MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name of this parish is, in the Gaelic language, pronounced Goislibee. Situated in the maritime parts of the High- lands, the parish has, Uke many other places, in all probability, re- ceived its name from t|ie ancient northern invaders, who for a time were possessors of these parts. The attempts which have been made to derive the name from the Gaelic language seem forced and unsatis- factory. The ancient name of the parish was Culmallie,— denot- ing that the church or chapel had been dedicated to some tutelary saint. Extent and Boundaries. — The form of the parish is an oblong, stretching along the coast ; its length is about eight miles, and breadth about six. The parish is bounded on the north by the parishes of Rogart and Clyne ; on the east by the latter and the Moray Frith ; on the south by that frith ; and on the west by the small inlet, which bears the name of Little Ferry^ and the stream called Fleet. Topographical Appearances. — The hills near the coast are, Beinn a Bhroffidlif which is about 1300 feet in height above the level of the sea; the Silver Rock and the HillofMorvich^ both much lower; and, in the interior, Beinn Horn 1712, and Beinn Lundicy 1464 feet in height. In the middle of the parish there is a valley called the Glen ofDunrohin. Through this glen runs a stream called Golspie Buniy whose banks, for the space of about a mile, near the sea, present very beautiful and picturesque scenery. The range of hills, consisting of the Silver Rocky the Hill of Morvicky and others, in their vicinity, are rounded at the top, with a southern, seaward aspect The flat arable part of the parish lies chiefly between the coast-side hills and the sea, having the rude figure of a triangle, one of whose sides is formed bv the base of the hills, another bv GOLSPIE. 26 the Little Ferry inlet, and the third by the sea-shore, with a con- siderable sinuosity. Caves. — In the former Statistical Account, two caves are describ- ed, — the one, Uaigh mhic Ghil Anndreis^ Gillander's Cave, in the eastern part of the parish ; and the other, Uaigh Thorcuily Tor- quil's Cave, in the hill above Dunrobin. It may be observed) that the former is on the face of a white sandstone rock, and seems to have been formed by the gradual action of the elements ; that the latter is in a loosely stratified red sandstone rock ; and that its formation appears to have been coeval with the present structure of the rock itself. The eastern half of the coast in this parish is mostly rocky, and the western low and sandy. Meteorology. — The climate of this, and of the adjacent parishes on the coast, may be considered temperate and mild. Snow seldom lies long on the ground; nor can the climate be called rainy. The east winds, indeed, which are not unfrequent, sometimes occasion cloudy and damp weather ; and, when they blow hard for a day or two, they bring with them much rain ; but this rain is almost uni- formly succeeded by a tract of fair mild weather. The south winds, which are the least frequent, are rarely accompanied with rain ; and it is in occasional showers only that the west and north- west winds bring rain. The gales from the north-west are here by far the hardest. Those dense fogs, which so often occur, on the east coast of the island, to the southward of us, are here of rare occurrence. Ailments of the rheumatic kind are perhaps the most prevalent; but not in any remarkable degree ; nor can these be ascribed to any peculiarity in the climate. Hydrography. — The fresh-water lakes in the parish are Lochs Homy Lundie^ Farralarie, and Salachic^ none of which exceeds half a mile in length, or one-third in breadth. The Fleets which, as already observed, forms part of the western boundary of the parish, is the only stream connected with it that can be denomi- nated a river. It flows through the valley called Strathjleet. At its lower part, it is slow and meandering, and contains trout, and sometimes salmon. In the glen of Golspie^ there is a cascade, which, when there is any quantity of water in the stream, has a very fine effect The surrounding scenery has of late been greatly improved ; and the traveller, who rests at the inn, and who takes pleasure in such things, will find himself rewarded, in visiting it. Geology. — The following geological remarks, relative to this pa- 26 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. rish, are copied from an original manuscript, at Duurobin Castle, written by the late eminent Sir Humphry Davy, President of the Royal Society : — " The primary hills, in the neighbourhood of Dunrobin, are composed of felspar, quartz, mica, and hornblende, forming different arrangements of porphyry, porphyritic granite, gneiss, sienite, and mica slate. There are very few veins in the rocks. The only veins I have seen are quartz, and in them there arc no indications of metallic formations. The decomposed rocks have left no fragments of quartz, which are usually found in abun- dance in metalliferous districts. ^^ The highest secondary hills, in this district, extend in a line from Loch-Brora to Strathfleet," that is, through the northern part of this parish, ^^ and are composed of hard silicious sandstone and puddingstone, containing large fragments — some rounded, some sharp — of the primary rocks, particularly of the porphyritic granite, gneiss, and sienite. " The secondary rocks are more interesting. The mechanical deposits in them are evidently derived from the ruins of primary rocks ; and most of the fragments are such as may have been de- tached from rocks in the neighbourhood. The vegetable remains in the sandstone and the shells in the limestone are those common to such formations. The cement of the secondary rocks is gene- rally silicious; but in one stratum near Golspie, and extending along the coast, it is calcareous ; and the decomposition of the rocks forms an excellent marl. In this marl there is a blue sub- stance, having some of the external characters of phosphate of iron," In another manuscript, Sir Humphry writes thus : — " The soils of the coast side lands, between the Little Feriy and Helms- dale, seem to be formed principally from the decomposition of sandstone-rock, which in some parts approaches in its nature to shale. The soils in Strathfleet," — the lower parts of which partly lie in this parish, — " appear to have been produced by the decomposition of transition-sandstone and breccias. " The transition rocks of Sutherland are not numerous, and be- long, as far as I have been able to learn and examine, only to a small extent of country. Some of the high hills, in the immediate neighbourhood of Dunrobin and Strathfleet, must be regarded as belonging to this order of rocks. Beinn a BhragidJi^ rising imme- diately above (near) the castle, is composed of red transition sand- stone and breccia. Beinn Hom^ the Silver Hilly and all the moun- tains immediately above Loch-Brora, arc similar in their nature ; GOLSPIE. 27 but their colours are various, — the sandstone being in some cases gray, in some white, and in others iron-brown. " In general the breccias, in these transition mountains, con- tain fragments of granite, porphyry, and micaceous schist, connect- ed by silicious cement; but, in a few cases, they contain fragments of marble, with a calcareous cement. A very remarkable breccia occurs at Golspie, near the inn, and at the east side of the burn, and a still purer one near Rhives, in which small blocks of marble are inserted. These calcareous breccias, in general, are in a state of decomposition, and a sort of marl is formed from the decay. "These rocks might, with as much propriety, be called secondary as transition rocks ; for though in some parts they abound in crys- talline matter, yet in others they are almost entirely composed of fragments. I have given them the name of transition by courtesy. Rocks of the rare kind are often associated with greywacke and crystalline stone ; and they are placed immediately upon the pri- mary rocks. I have never seen any greywacke or transition lime- stone in Sutherland. " The secondary rocks occupy but a small space, and are pro- bably incumbent on the red sandstone or breccia described. They occur in regular strata ; but their arrangement is very much dis- turbed. They appear to have been originally deposited, or formed parallel to the horizon ; but in most places this parallelism has been disturbed, either by the subsidence or the elevation of part of the strata ; so that there are frequently faults or abruptions of the diflerent rocks, which have given to tlie different parts of the strata different inclinations. " The true secondary strata of Sutherland," /. t\ of the east coast, " occupy an extent of six or seven miles, filling up a sort of basin between the transition hills, in the neighbourhood of Dun- robin, and those in the parish of Loth. The upper stratum is a sandstone of different degrees of hardness, and composed of sili- cious sand, cemented by silicious matter. Below this occurs an aluminous shale, containing pyritous matter, carbonaceous matter, the remains of marine animals, * and of land vegetables. Beneath this shale, or rather alternating with it, a stratum occurs, contain- ing in some of its parts calcareous matter, and passing into lime- • The reefs at Dunrobin contain the remains of the following hivalve shell fishes : — Gryphtra, difTering slightly from G. ohliqnata\ Modioh, new species, longitudinally striated ; Pecten^ new species, striated ; P/afnMt(»na duplicata ; Tcrchratnla victim ; a new species of gil>bose shell resembling Unio ; Venus undescribed.— .SVc Mur~ f'liwM ow Strata of Oolitic Scries, ^r. Trans. Gcol. Soc. 28 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. Stone ; but in general consisting of a silicious sand agglutinated by calcareous cement The coal measures occupy the lowest part of this secondary district which has been yet exposed." ^^ The hard sandstone is principally composed of pure silicious earth. It is not acted upon by acids, and is not liable to be de- composed by the action of air and water. The shale contains no calcareous matter near its junction with the coal. The limestones found in the secondary strata contain no magnesian earth, and are adulterated only with aluminous and silicious earths, and oxide of iron. They differ very much in purity, in different parts. The marble in the calcareous breccia at Rhives, and on the coast, leaves only from one-twelfth to one-twentieth of residuum during its solution in acids. The sand on the coast, near the quay at Dun- robin, contains from one-half to one-third of weight of calcareous matter." Zoology. — The following birds, of the rarer kinds, have occasion- ally been seen in this parish, by the game-keeper. The goshawk, (Falco palumhariusj Linn.; UAutour^ Buffon.) The ash-colour- ed shrike, or greater butcher-bird, {Lanius excubitor^ Linn.; La Pie^Griiche grise^ Buffon.) Tlie ring-ouzel (Turdus torqttatus, Linn.; Le Merle d Plastron blanc^ Buffon.) The cross-bill or Sheld Apple {Loxia Curvirostra) Linn.; LeBeccroise, Buffon.) The snow-bunting or snow-flake (Emberiza nivalis^ Linn.; L' Ortolan de Neigcy Buffon.) The Siskin or Aberdevine {Fringilla spinusy Linn.; LeTarin, Buffon.) The night-jar, goat-sucker, dor-hawk, or fern-owl, (Caprimulgus Europceusy Linn.; L' Engouleventy Buf- fon.) At a very remote period, deer seem to have been numerous either in the hills of this parish, or in its neighbourhood ; for large, and evidently very old deposits of their horns have recently been dug up, near the site of the old chapel. They now seldom venture to ap- proach so near the coast. Galloway black-polled cattle. Highland black cattle, and the Cheviot breed of sheep, and some good work- horses, are reared with great care and success, in this parish. The kinds of fish found here are merely those which are common to the other parts of the east coast of Scotland, and which are men- tioned in the former Statistical Account. The most useful shell- fish, in the parish, is the mussel, generated on a bank in the Little Ferry inlet. This shell-fish is the bait chiefly used in the haddock and other white fisheries ; sometimes, however, the limpet, and a worm named by the fishermen hiff, and found in the sand, at ebb GOLSPIE. 29 tide, are used as bait In the vicinity of the mussels, cockles abound. He^s of oyster-shells have occasionally been dug up in certain parts of this, and of the neighbouring parish, to the west; and their shells are also found on the sea-shore, about the Little Ferry inlet, — affording an indication of the existence of this shell-fish in abun- dance, in former times. IL — Civil History. Like other maritime parishes in the Highlands, Golspie appears to have, in ancient times, been invaded, and possessed, for a period, by foreign northern nations.* By far the most prominent and in- teresting part of its history relates to the eminent characters that have been connected with it. Family of Sutherland, — Her Grace the Duchess of Sutherland, who, with the other members of her family, often resides in this parish, at her seat — Dunrobin, is also Countess of Sutherland, in her own right The thanes of Sutherland first received the title of earls from Malcolm Canmore, King of Scotland, a. d. 1031. Her Grace Elizabeth, the present Countess, is the twenty-third repre- sentative of this ancient family, and a lineal descendant of Robert the Bruce, King of Scotland; the third William Earl of Sutherland having been married to the Princess Margaret, daughter of that monarch. The husband of her Grace is George Granville Leveson Gower, Duke of Sutherland, Knight of the Garter. The de- scent of his Grace is also very illustrious, as well as very ancient. Not to mention many other particulars, he is in the paternal line descended from Robert, the youngest son of Rollo, first Duke of Normandy, and, in the maternal line, from the Princess Mary, second daughter of the seventh Henry, King of England. The family consists of two sons and two daughters, — George Granville, Marquis of Stafford, Baron Gower of Stittenham, Lord * In all probability, the continental warlike nation of the Catti, so largely treated of by the Roman historians, invaded and took possession of the district of country ex- tending from the Pentland Frith to that of Dornoch ; and that, perhaps, soon after the disasters brought upon them by the Roman arms. The Celtic name of the dis- trict, situated between the Ord of Caithness, and the Frith of Dornoch, is Cati Ihaobh^ I. e. the side, or district of the Catli, and the inhabitants are in Celtic denominated Cattick, Caithness has in English retained its original name, for it means the pro- montory of the Catti ; but in Celtic^ it is called Gall thaohh, the district of strangers, from the people who at a later period settled there. Sutherland, the English name of this county, eridently owes its origin to its geographical position, in reference to Caith^ ness. In Celtic, the title of the Earls of Sutherland is Morfhcar citatt, pronounced Morer ehait, and that of the Countess, Bona Mhorfear chaiU pronounced Bona voter ehatt ; Bona being the feminine prefix. Both the Celtic titles are expressive of no- bility in any degree ; and thus they still continue applicable. 30 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. Lieutenant of the county of Sutherland, and heir to the estates and titles of the family, married to Lady Harriet Howard, daughter of the Earl of Carlisle ; Lord Francis, heir to the property of the late Duke of Bridgewater, married to Miss Greville, niece of the Duke of Portland ; Lady Charlotte, married to the Earl of Surrey, son and heir of the Duke of Norfolk ; and Lady EUzabeth, married to Earl Grosvenor, son and heir of the Marquis of Westminster; all of whom have families, consisting each of sons and daughters. As a statesman the Duke of Sutherland is enlightened, libe- ^ral, firm, and independent; possessing the well-merited charac- ter of inflexible integrity and of high honour. His Grace, then Earl Gower, was ambassador, from this country, at the court of France, at the memorable period of the French Revolution, which began in 1789.* Her Grace the Duchess of Sutherland has, by universal con- sent, been always regarded as endowed with great talent, accomplish- ments, and beauty ; and, in respect to character, is eminent and ex- emplary, in the highest degree, and a great ornament to her ex- alted rank and station ; the natural fruit and reward of which qua- lities are richly exhibited, in the good conduct and great prospe- rity and happiness of her family. The noble Marquis follows the paternal example, — favouring and promoting, as a statesman, all those measures which appear calculated to benefit the empire, and to render its institutions pure and permanent. The younger son. Lord Francis, has already, in connection with former administra- tions, served his country successively as Secretary of State for Ire- land, and minister at war, and, in a literary capacity, is author of some *> His Grace died at Dunrobin, on 19th July 1833, greatly lamented by all de- scriptions of persons in the county ; and his remains rejMse in the cathedral at Dor- noch. No nobleman's funeral could be. attended with a demonstration either more true, or more aj)propriate, of esteem and veneration, than that of his Grace ; and never, in this county, was tlicre a scene at once so decorous, so imposing, and eo im- pressive. Not only did the relatives of the noble deceased, and tlic gentlemen and clergymen connected with his domains, give their attendance on the solemn occa- sion, but also the general population of all the parishes, who, while the procession passed along, lined the road leading from Ounrobin to Dornoch. In testimony of tlieir great esteem and respect, the gentlemen and tenantry on his Grace's estates in thb country, are, at their joint expense, to erect a monument to his memory, to be situated on the summit of the hill *'*' Beinn a Bhragidh^** in this parish ; and m simi- lar manifestation of esteem and respect, takes place on the English estates. His Grace's eldest son succeeds to his titles and estates ; but the Duchess Countess of Sutherland not only enjoys her own esUtes, but also liferenU the whole of the ex- tensive and valuable estates purchased by the late Duke in this country ; a bequest as merited as it is munificent. For never, in any rank of life, was there one, who discharged the duties of the connubial relation m a more exemplary manner than did her Grace. 3 GOLSPIE. 31 works, chiefly connected with German literature, which have at- tracted considerable notice. The names and biography of the Earls of Sutherland are ho- nourably interwoven in the general history of the empire. To specify the many honourable actions and exertions of these noblemen, in defence and for the Uberties of their country, the ne- cessary brevity of this account renders impossible. But there is one remarkable and interesting circumstance that may not be omitted, — which is, that the line of succession down to the present representative is direct, and uninterrupted, having the title of Su- therland united to it. Twice was there an attempt unavaiUngly made to divert the succession from an heiress; first from the Lady Elizabeth, daughter of John, the twelfth earl ; and again, from the present representative, who, by the almost simultaneous and much lamented death of her noble parents, was in early in- fancy left an only child. From such critical circumstances did the Supreme Arbiter of the Destinies of all deliver the present repre- sentative of the house of Sutherland, and in her person the direct line of succession, — to become still farther exalted, and to be con- nected with the most noble, the most wealthy, and the most an- cient families in the empire ; " Mersus profiindo pulchrlor evenit." Family of Kilcalmkilh — In the churchyard of this parish there is a chapel, or inclosed place of sepulture, where repose many members of the very old family of Kilcalmkill, or, according to a more recent designation, of Carrol. This family derives its descent from Adam Gordon, Dean of Caithness, the first Earl of Huntly's second son, uncle of Adam Gordon, Lord of Aboyne, the second Earl of Hunt- ly's son, who married the Countess Elizabeth, daughter of John, the fourteenth Earl of Sutherland. The representative of a main branch of the Kilcalmhill family is Joseph Gordon, Esq. W. S. fklinburgh, who, it is understood, has a right to a baronetage by the death of the Rev. Sir Adam Gordon, Baronet, in whom a col- lateral branch of the male line has terminated. Family ofNovar. — Among the eminent persons connected with this parish, by birth, must be noticed the late Sir Hector Munro of Novar. Sir Hector was born at Clayside, in this parish, in 1 727, and, when about twenty years of age, entered the army. He went to the East Indies, a major in Morris's regiment At the head of a small force, he defeated a large army commanded by a native prince, at Buxar. He was afterwards promoted to the rank of 32 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. major-general, aiid appointed commander-in-chief at Madras. He soon took the French settlement of Pondicherry, and, for this ser- vice, was invested with the order of the Bath. At Negapatam, also, he behaved with equal gallantry. Having soon afterwards returned to England, he was appointed Colonel of the 42d Regi- ment of Infantry, and was subsequently promoted to the rank of Lieutenant-General, on the North British Staff. Sir Hector's father, Hugh Munro, by the death of an elder brother, succeeded to the estate of Novar, in Ross-shire, and, on the father's death. Sir Hector himself. Sir Hector was twice in India, and in the in- terval spent at home he represented in Parliament the Inverness district of burghs, and on his finally quitting India was re-elected. Sir Hector died in 1802. He was a brave officer ; in private life a good friend ; and a remarkable instance of filial piety, towards a venerable and worthy mother, to whose prayers he was wont to ascribe his success in life.* Sir Hector Munro's brother, Alexander, who was for sometime Consul General at Madrid, and afterwards a Commissioner of Cus- toms, was also knighted. H. A. J. Munro, Esq. the present pro- prietor of Novar, an intelligent and accomplished gentleman, is the son of Sir Alexander. It must be added under this head, that Dr Hugh Macpherson, the present Professor of Greek in the University and King's Col- lege, Aberdeen, and who has taught that language there, for thirty- five years, with great success and approbation, is a native of this parish ; and is the son of the late Rev. Martin Macpherson, who was minister of the parish. Land-Timers. — The Duke and Duchess Countess of Sutherland are the sole owners of the land in this parish ; and, by the late purchase of the Reay country, they have become owners of nearly the whole county. Their property has also been further enlarged by the recent purchase of several estates in the county of Ross; so that the whole, in conjunction with the Staffordshire and other estates, the Bridge- water canal, and other possessions in England, constitutes a proper- ty which may with propriety be called immense, yielding a revenue more than princely. Manuscripts. — It is proper to observe, that there is a manuscript at Dunrobin Castle, entitled « the Genealogy of the Earls and family of Sutheriand." But though this be the title, the work is • Sir II. Munro*s conduct in India did not wholly escape censure ; but, whatever caww there may have been for it, it is evident that his general conduct and services must have made ample amends. GOLSPIE. 3d extensive, and contains a great many curious and interesting his* torical notices, relative to the counties of Sutherland and Caith* ness, the hi^ands and islands, and the country at laige. The. author was Sir Robert Gordon, a younger son of the family of Sutherland. The work embraces the space of time between the years 1031 and 1630, and tfiere is appended to it a continuation, by Gilbert Gordon of Sallach, to the year 1661. It was printed in Edinburgh in 1813 ; and of the MS. there is another manuscript eofy in the Advocates' Library, in Edinburgh. AHtiqMiHe$,^^A portion of the wall of the old church, or chapel, of this parish still remains, and forms part of the fence whidi en* doses the burying-ground formerly used. This cemetery contains the remains of many of the Earls of Sutherland, as signified by a plain stone placed in the old church wall, bearing this epitaph, *^ In hoc diruto cameterio Sutherlandia pbtrimarum eomitum dneres canquiesetmL*' Tlie church was transferred from Culmalie to Grol- spie, A. D. 1619. In the former Statistied Account of the parish, there is notice taken of the battle fought in 1746, on the north side of the Little Ferry ^ between a party of those who sided with the invading prince and the miUtia of this country; in which battle the Earl of Cro- marty and other ^ntlemen were made prisoners. Of the sangui- nary nature of this battle there remain clear proofs. Several skeletons of those who fell, and who were buried on the scene of action, have of late been occasionally discovered. Along with these, there have been found a number of small copper coins, and one of silver, — dl of Mary and James, — together with some copper brooches and some glass beads. Of these artides, some are now at Dunrobin Castle, and others in the possession of Dr Ross of Canmsmore. Among the latter, there is a copper ring encircled with this inscription, rudely executed ; ^' Jesus Nazarams Hex JuddBorunL." The remdns of swords and pistols have also been found. Near the ruins of the old chapel, there were lately dug up the handle of a balance, with some of the weights, both of brass, and of neat and curious workmanship, and in very good preservation. They are supposed to have belonged to the old chapel. These, together with some thick rings of brass, wood, and other materials^ in diameter from hdf an inch to one and a^half, found in the same vicinity, are now at Dunrobin Castle ; and here also are two brass rings, three inches in diameter, and a third of an inch thick, found SUTHERLAND. C 34 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. at the place of Uppat, five feet under ground. Near the site of the old chapel, too, there was lately dug up a large undressed stone, with a rude device, as of an ancient galley, — a thick crescent The date and the object of it are alike unknown. It now stands a little to the east of the castle. The ruins of two Pictish towers, as they are often called, are described in the former Statistical Account ; — the one, situated at a short distance to the east of Dunrobin Castle, and the other to the west, now embosomed in a plantation of fir trees. There is another ruin of the same kind near the place of Backies, which has not been mentioned, and which, as well as that situated at the east, has been greatly demolished. The ruin in the wood is less dila- pidated, and still distinctly bears the characteristics of similar ruins in the coast-side Highlands. The general dimensions, — the cen- tral circular compartment, — the gallery between this compartment and the exterior wall, — are quite visible. The absence of mortar in the construction is common to these three ruins, as well as to all others of the kind. The two nearest were in sight of each other; the one at Backies looked into the glen; and they all com- manded an extensive prospect of the sea and the land. It is most probable, that these, and other similar structures, were built and used by the Danes. The remains of a Druidical temple, or cir- cle, are to be seen a little above the road which leads from the Mound to Morvich, about half way between these places. Dunrobin Castle.- — About the middle of the parish, and situ- ated on the margin of a bank, and considerably elevated above the sea, stands Dunrobin Castle, which was first built by Robert Earl of Sutherland, a. d. 1275. . Its environs are a good deal wooded, and the surrounding scenery, which is varied and hilly, is very interesting and picturesque. The garden which, as viewed from the bank or the castle, spreads itself like a map at the foot of the bank, is in excellent keeping with the antique character of the mansion and the place. Parochial Register. — The earliest entry in the parochial regis- ter here is 29th December 1739. The register is at present re- gularly and carefully kept. Modem Buildings. — Besides the farm-houses and offices, there are in the village an inn, a flour and barley-mill, a meal-mill, a bank-office, and the manse, all of them good, and built not many years ago. GOLSPIE. 35 IIL — Population. Since the former Statistical Account in 1793, there has been a decrease of population. This has arisen from a powerful cause, which has been, for the last forty years, in full operation in all the High- lands of Scotland,- — the occupation of the land, in large farms, by tenants of skill and capital; — a measure urged on by the changes and improvements in the general state of agriculture and commerce, at home and abroad. Since the census in 1821, there is an in- crease in the jpopulation of upwards of a hundred; which has been occasioned by the increased comforts of the working-classes, aris- ing from employment on the large farms, and in the various works, such as buildings and roads, carried on, in the county. By the census of 1831, the whole population of the parish was - 1 149 The population of the village of Golspie is at present - • 450 The population residing in the country, - - ^ . . 699 The yearly average number of births for the last seven years, • 90 of deaths for do. - . • 16 of marriages for do. ... 9 The average number of persons under 15 years of age, - - d95 betwixt 15 and 30, - . 302 30 and 50, . . 233 50 and 70, - . 165 upwards of 70, - - • 54 The number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, - - .. . . • 11 The number of unmarried women upwards of 45 years of age, ^ 52 Average number of children in each fiunily, ... 4 Number of persons deaf and dumb, .... 2 &tuous persons, ..... 1 blind, _.._... 1 The number of &milies in the parish is, - ... 248 of &milies chiefly employed in agriculture, - 113 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicrafl, 49 Language^ Habits^ and Character of the People. — Forty years ago, the Gaelic was the language generally spoken in the parish. But, from better education, and the residence of persons from the south country, that language is now fast on the decline; and among the young there is now hardly an individual who does not under- stand and speak English. In cleanliness, both personal and cLo- mestic, there has of late been a great improvement; and the same may, in its full extent, be said of their dress. The ordinary food of the peasantry and tradesmen consists of oat and barley- meal, variously prepared, — of potatoes, fish, and milk, but rarely flesh. Tradesmen and others occasionally use a little wheaten bread, and a little butter, cheese, and tea. The people of this parish live ip comfort and contentment — However far short they may come of the full Christian standard, they may generally, and in the ordinary acceptation of the term, be, without hesitation. 36 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. said to be a moral and a religious people. It must, however, be ad- mitted, that, in common with a large proportion of their country- men, the religion of many of the native population of the lower class is not without serious and inveterate errors. Christian con- ver^on, in their view, essentially consists, not in the forsaking of wicked ways and unrighteous thoughts, and in returning from these to the Lord, but in another sort of change not distinctly connect- ed with a moral life. A set of illiterate, fanatical, and disorderly, self-appointed teachers of religion have, by their wild and mjrsti- cai rhapsodies, acquired a baneful ascendant over the ignorant minds of the lower orders of the people not only in this country, but in other parts of the Highlands. In the mouths of these teachers, prayer is irreverently perverted into mere discussion, vir- tually addressed, not to God, but to the hearers, and frequently degenerates into bitter personalities and invecUves. By these de- luding, and often deluded persons, the metaphorical parts of the Holy Scriptures are received and taught in the literal sense, and the plainest parts are very often allegorized. Not unfrequently the Scriptures are considered as a mere secondary thing, of little avail ; and that pastor who studies them closely and critically, and ex- pounds them in their true sense, is regarded as if he were dealing with occult and unhallowed sciences. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The number of acres, impe- rial measure, in the parish which are either cultivated or occasion- ally in tillage is about 2040. Of unimproved land there is very little. There are about 800 acres under wood. Every attention seems to be paid to the plantations. The trees and plants in this parish are of those kinds which are common to other parts of the Highlands. Since the former Statistical Account was written, a considerable space of land has been planted with forest trees, by which the appearance of the pa- rish is greatly improved. Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land per imperial acre in this parish is L. 1, 2s. The average rate of grazing is L. 1, 10s. per ox or cow grazed, and 2s. per ewe or fuU*grown sheep, pastured for the year. Rate of Wages. — The rate of wages is as follows : A ploughman, for the year, receives L. 10 in money, one stone of meal per week, keep for a cow, (or a cow between two,) six bolls of potatoes, with house and fuel. A male day labourer gets Is.' 6d. in the long day, GOLSPIE. 37 and Is. dd. in the short; a female 6d. a-day generally; in har- vest, Is. House-carpenters 2s., and masons 2s. 6d. a-day. The prices of articles of manufacture, and the rate of work, are ; for an iron plough, L.4; for a wooden one from L.2, lOs. to L.d. A cart, with hay frame, L. 14; a set of cart and plough harness, L. 7, lOs. ; pair of harrows, L. 2, 10s. ; rood of stone and lime- work, L. 2, 12s. ; drystone-dike, 4 feet high, with coping, 6d. per yard ; if 6 feet high, 9d. ; blacksmiths work 4d. to 7d. per lb. itw*SltodL— 'The price of a Dunrobin ox, from two to three years old, is generally L. 9; but, during the war, the price was L.14, and sometimes h^ier. Other Highland cattle are considerably lower in price. A woric-horse from L. 25 to L. 40. The price of beef and mutton is 4d. per lb. ; butter, lOd. per lb. ; a common house fowl, ^ > ^SS^ ^ P^** dozen ; oatmeal generally L. 1, but this year 17s.* per boll of eight stone ; potatoes from 8s. to 12s. per boll of twelve bushels imperial; salmon Is. to Is. 6d. per lb. ; grilse 6d. per lb. ; a cod 6d.; haddocks from lOd. to Is. per dozen. The Dunrobin breed of cattle, originally from Argyleshire, are deservedly accounted excellent, and there is great attention paid to the rearing of them. For dairy use, there are some Ayrshire cows. On some farms, the breed of Highland black-cattle is chiefly reared; and on the farm of Kirk ton, an excellent breed of black polled Galloway cattle. At the Highland Society's cattle show, held at Inverness in 1831, where stock of all kinds were shown, from all the northern counties, including the counties of Aberdeen and Perth, — a larger amount of prizes was awarded to this parish than to any other. To the Marquis of Stafford was awarded the prize for the best two oxen of the Highland breed ; another for the best lot of stirks of the same breed ; and the So- ciety's medal for two Highland oxen shown as extra stock. Mr Craig of Kirkton obtained a prize for the best cow, another for the best heifer, and another for the best ox, all of the Gralloway breed, — together with the commendation of the judges for a bay colt and a chesnut filly, shown as extra stock. This gentleman afterwards sold his prize ox for L. 30, to the advantage of the buyer. The Galloway breed of cattle are here found to be very hardy, and to arrive at a greater weight, upon the same feeding, than the High- land breed do. The milk, both of the Galloway and Highland cows, is not great in quantity, but is in quality very rich. On the large farms, some good work and saddle horses are bred ; and by • In ia04. 14s. per boll. 38 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. the cottars, some small ponies. The kind of sheep reared is the Cheviot, to the purity and rearing of which much attention is paid ; and they accordingly are very superior, and obtain high prices., Husbandry, — Farming is carried on in this parish on the most approved system. The rotations of cropping are the four, five, and six years shifts. Trenching and draining have been done to a great extent on every farm in the parish, at an expense of from L. 8 to L. 50 per acre. * The duration of leases is nineteen years; in one instance, thirty. The farm-buildings and many of the fences (which are dry-stone dikes) are substantial. Improvements. — It may be with truth affirmed, that a simple account of the improvements in this parish must have the appear- ance of exaggeration, and that he only can appreciate them who had seen the state of the parish forty or even thirty years ago, and compares that state with the present Every farm, every building, every piece of road, presents an instance of the greatest improve- ment. The farms of Culmalie and Morvich are possessed by Mr Sellar, who, by trenching, draining, and liming, with much labour and expense, has converted them into specimens of great agricul- tural excellence. The farm of Kirkton, occupied by Mr Craig, affords a most creditable example of industry and skill. That of Drummuie, held by Mr Macpherson, and that of Golspie Tower, held by Mr Duncan, have been greatly improved, and at a great expense. The farm of Rhives had been rendered a remarkably fine one by its former successive occupants, Mr Young and Mr Suther ; and an addition has been made to its arable land, by the present possessor, Mr Gunn. The mains of Dunrobin, being old and good land, have always been productive ; but they, too, have been improved under the new system ; and the same may be said of the place of Uppat, which completes the number of large farms in the parish. These notices are not irrelevant here ; for it must be added, that these farmers have . not only the good fortune to be placed under most liberal landlords ; but that they deserve the liberality they receive. They have acquired a title to the gra- titude of the community at large " by making corn and grass to grow, where neither grass nor com ever grew before." Quarries. — There are two very good red sandstone quarries wrought here ; there is also one of white sandstone. Some indi- * Much use continues to be made of drift sea-weed as a manure ; kelp is used at Dunrobin, and bone-dust has recently been introduced by Mr Craig, Kirkton^ and has been since adopted to some extei^t and with success by others. From the very small quantity of this manure requisite, there is a great saving of carriage. 1250 1000 1430 450 100 GOLSPIE. 39 cations have appeared of coal veins ; but it has not been thought expedient to open them. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as that can be ascertained, is as follows : — Produce of grain of all kinds, cultivated for food for men and the domestic animals, L.5800 Potatoes, turnips, cabbages, beet, and other plants, cultivated in the field for food, .... Hay cultivated, .... Land in pasture, rating it at L. 1, lOs. per cow or full-grown ox, grazed, or that may be grazed, for the season ; at 2s. p^ ewe or full-grown sheep pastiured, or that may be pastured, for the year. Fisheries yearly, haddocks, &c L. 250, herrings, L. 200, Muscles yearly, ..... Total yjssKtXy value, L. 10,030 Fishings. — The only salmon fishery, in the parish, is on the Fleet below the Mound. It commences in June, and is carried on by stake nets. The quantity of fish caught there is not large. There is no herring fishery station in the parish. It is at Helmsdale, Wick, and Portmahomach, that the fishermen of this parish take and sell their herrings. The above calculation of the fisheries is probably under their real value. V. — Parochial Economy. Markets^ Villages^ Sfc. — In this parish there is, strictly speak- ing, no town, and the nearest market -town is Tain, distant about twenty miles ; a ferry intervening. There is, however, a village, bearing the name of the parish. Originally, there were only a few fishermen's huts of the meanest description on the site of the village; but within the last twenty years it has, with the aid of the noble proprietors, become a neat village of considerable extent. It contains several retail-shops of various descriptions. There are also mechanics of various kinds, and upwards of twenty profes- sional fishermen, together with many labourers of both sexes, who earn their livelihood by working on the neighbouring farms. Means of Communication, — A trading smack plies regularly once a-month between the Little Ferry^ in this parish, and the^ port of Leith, touching also at Helmsdale and Aberdeen. * There is here, too, a regular post-office ; and a daily mail-coach passes through the village on its way to and from Thurso. From this post-office, there runs twice a-week a Diligence gig, conveying a mail, and fitted up to carry two passengers, to Lairg in the interior, distant eight miles ; from which place, and on the same day, two other * There is a steamer to commence plying, next spring, between the Moray Frith and London ; and this steamer is to touch at the LMtk Ferry, 40 SUTHEftLANDSHIRE. liiiiiiiar conveyances, and for similar purposes, branch ofl^-*^tbe one to Tongue, the other to Assynt^ It is only about three years since these latter conveyances began to run ; and fifteen, since the mail- coach commenced. Both the latter and the former owe their es-* tablishment, in a great measure, to the liberal and powerful suj^rt of the noble proprietors of this parish, — rendered effective by the ability and activity of their commissioner, James Loch, Esq.M. P. The length of mail-coach road, in this parish, is eight miles. Over Golspie bum there is a well-built substantial one-arched bridge. * Earthen Mound. — Connecting this parish with the adjacent one of Dornoch, at the head of the Little Ferry inlet, and across the Fleet, there is a mound 995 yards in length, 60 yards in breadth at the base, and 20 feet at the top, and about 18 feet perpendicular in height ; it terminates at the north end in a bridge 34 yards in length, with four arches, each 12 feet span, fitted with valve gates. The expense of constructing this mound was L. 9600, of which sum the Duke of .Sutherland defrayed L. 1600, and the public and the county the remainder, each a moiety. Along the mound the mail-coach now passes; and thus a passage, formerly uncertain and often dangerous, has been rendered safe, certain, and agreeable. Besides the public benefit effected by this work, some good land is preserved from the overflowing of the sea ; and about 400 acres of beach, which may in time become arable, are gradually assum- ing a coating partly of herbage, and partly of alder trees. The construction of the mound having been by many skilful engineers deemed hazardous, and by some impracticable, there was much difficulty in getting persons to undertsdce it, when Earl Grower, now Marquis of Stafford, William Young, Esq. of Maryhill near Elgin, and Patrick Sellar, Esq. of Westfield, came forward, and became responsible for the completion of the work. To Mr Young, who was commissioner on the estate of the noble proprietors of this county, it is but doing justice to observe, that the mound, which was finished in 1816, and is accounted one of the most complete structures of the kind in Britain, in a great measure owes its exist- * On the middle of one of the parapets of this bridge stands a small obelisk, with this Celtic inscription : *< Morfbear cbatt do cheann na droichle big gaim claim chat- tich nam buadh." At « Ceann na droichte W^,** the end of the Little Bridge, the cattich were wont to muster. Their " gathering"* also, or rallying " Piabarachiy** which is accounted one of the best, bears the name of " Ceann na droichU big.** But tliis Pisbarachd has like- wise long borne the name of " Ribingorm Mhorfkear Ctiattj'* i. e. The Earl of Suther. land's Blue or Green Ribband. GOLSPIE* 41 enoe ; and it will remain a lasting monument of his ability and exertions. LittJe Ferry. — The Little Ferry inlet, or the estuary, as it may be regarded, of the Fleet, forms a harbour at the distanc!^ of about a mile from the bar formed at its mouth. The depth of the water over this bar, during spring tides, is, at fiill tide, about 16 feet, and at ebb tide 4^ feet ; and, during neap tides, is, at fiill tide, about 16, and, at ebb tide, 6 feet. When the Fleet is flooded, the depth is, in a small degree, increased. The harbour is about 259 yards broad, has about 18 feet water at ebb tide, and affords perfect safe- ty, in any weather. Above this narrow part, the sea, at full tide, expands over a space of about 1500 imperial acres. The harbour of the Little Ferry is frequented by trading vessels, which import lime, coal, bone^ust, and merchant goods, for this parish and dis- trict, and export grain, wool, whisky, &c At Dunrobin there is a pier for the use of small vessels. EecUnastiad State. — The parish church is situated about the middle of the parish, and so near the sea, that the glebe only in-r terrenes. The situation is convenient for the parishioners ; the village, which contains from a third to a half of the population, being in its immediate vicinity, and most of the remaining part, with the exception of a few families, who are not far from the neigh- bouring parish churches, being within less than three miles of it; and the extremities of the parish, which are more thinly inhabited, being in any direction scarcely more than six miles distant from the church. The church was built in 1738. The southern aisle was added in 1 751, and at present the building is in good repair. It is fitted to ao-» conunodate 565 persons. — The manse was built in 1827. — A large proportion of the glebe is sand and gravel. Of good glebe land there is scarcely the legal measure of four and a-half acres ; and it has become greatly deteriorated by being cut up by a neighbour- ing stream. Calculating according to the average rent of land in this parish, which is L. 1, 2s., its value annually is evidently smalL There b no grass gl^be. — The annual stipend consists of 131 bolls of victual, old county measure, and L. 75 in money. There is no separate allowance for sacramental expenses. The teinds are supposed to be exhausted. There is no public place of worship of any kind in the parish, but the parish church. There is no catechist. ^The average number of communicants in this parish, which is 70, must, when compared with the population, appocnr strikingly small ; 42 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. but this is only what is general in Highland parishes. The chief cause of it is, that the views generally entertained by the lower classes of the nature of the Lord's supper are inveterately superstitious. Very many of those, who are not only decent in their lives, but even religious, are laid gray-headed in their graves without having once engaged in the Christian duty of the Lord's supper. Where the population of many parishes, consisting of several thousands, are assembled in one parish, it is evident, indeed, that, with other evils, there cannot be the due proportion of conmiunicants. On some occasions, too, the strange anomaly exists in these parts of many of the illiterate laity being permitted to address those large assem- blages of people, who but too generally regard their doctrines as the dictates of inspiration. Education* — The schools in the parish are the parochial one and a female school. During the winter months, however, in the more distant parts, parents occasionally unite in employing a youth to teach very young children. The branches taught in the pa- rochial school are Latin, Greek, the elements of geometry, book- keeping, arithmetic, writing, English reading, and the catechisms of the Established church. The schoolmaster's annual salary is L. 34, 4s. 4d., and the annual average amount of school fees is about L. 26. The salary of the teaclier of the female school is L. 8, and is granted by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge in the Highlands. The school is patronized by her Grace the Duchess of Sutherland, who gives the teacher a house and garden, with other donations, equivalent to L. 6. It is found to be very useful. The branches taught in it are sewing and English reading. From its immediate vicinity to the parochial school, other branches are not here required. There are few chil- dren in the parish who cannot read ; and those few are the chil- dren of the fishermen, some of whom, from the erroneous idea that to persons of their calling education would be no advantage, are indifferent about the instruction of their children. Those children, who are taught to read, are also taught to write ; and most of the youth can, in some degree, both write and read. Of the elderly people, indeed, there are a number, probably 80, who can do neither. The desire on the part of parents to educate their children is greatly increasing. The situation of the parish school, which is in the immediate neighbourhood of the village, is well calculated to induce the general attendance of the children. The GOLSPIE. 43 facilities of education have considerably improved the moral and social condition of the people. Poi3T. — In regard to the poor of the parish, it may be observed, that though they all receive some aid from church collections, and from other fiinds, there are none of them wholly supported by these. The average number on the poors-roll is somewhat more than sixty. The average sum which each of them annually receives is 8s., and occasionally some meal. 'Jlie average annual collections in church are about L. 1 9. There is the interest of money lent in behalf of the poor, amounting to about L. 7. And her Grace the Duchess of Sutherland, besides many charitable pensions, and many liberal donations in money, meal, clothing, and house accommodation, annually contributes L. 6 to the parochial fund for the poor. Out of this general fund there is a small annual allowance to the ses- sion-clerk, precentor, kirk-officer, and treasurer. The average amount of church collections for other charitable and religious purposes may be L. 15 a-year. There is in the parish a house for the accommodation of seve- ral poor widows, which was sometime since built at the joint ex- pense of the present Ladies Surrey and Grosvenor. Literature, — It may be observed, that the gentlemen of this and the neighbouring parishes have formed themselves into a read- ing club. They purchase new books of merit, which, after being circulated among the members, are sold to supply the means of purchasing others. Fairs, Inns, Fuel, — There is an annual fair held near the vil- lage of Golspie, in October, chiefly for the sale of country cattle ; but merchants and pedlars also resort to it, with goods suited to the wants of the country people. There is another fair of a simi- lar nature, but of little importance, in May. In the vicinity of the village, there is an inn, lately built, large, commodious, well- furnished, and well-kept. It is allowed to be the best country inn in the Highlands, and is beautifully and picturesquely situated. In the village itself, there are several smaller inns, or alehouses, for the use and accommodation of the lower orders ; and hitherto these houses do not seem to have had any particularly bad efiects on the morals of the people. The fuel used in the parish is coal and peat. The coal is imported from Newcastle, and generally costs 2s. per barrel. The peats are cut and seasoned in the mosses, at the distance of some miles from the coast ; and were the expense of cutting, seasoning, and carriage, duly calculated, it 44 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. would probably be found that the price comes little, if at all, short of that of imported coal. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the time of the last Statistical Account, the greatest changes, as already noticed, have taken place in the state of the parish. At that period, the injurious system of sub-letting prevail- ed ; and both the knowledge and the practice of farming were ex- ceedingly defective. The place of Dunrobin excepted, there was neither draining, trenching, nor fallow, and very little green crop» besides potatoes and a little pease. There were few fences, and these few bad. The plough, which was rudely constructed, had no part of it iron but the coulter, the sock, and the hook, at tibe end of the beam. Four country garrans^ or Highland ponies, were yoked to the plough abreast : and the driver walked in front of them backwards. There were few wheeled vehicles thjit deserved the name. Com, fuel, &C. were carried in a kind of frame called crubaffSj fast- ened on horseback, to a wooden saddle, that rested on a straw maU The public road was the only one, and that itself indifferent The dwellings of the subtenants were wooden frames thatched with turf, and of these, one end accommodated cattle, horses, and sometimes pigs. One end also of the turf covering of these huts, saturated as it was with soot, was annually stript off and converted into manure. With such dwellings the dress of their tenants corresponded. With the exception of tlie mtUchj or cap, and handkerchief of the wo- men, and perhaps the men's neckcloths, their clothes consisted of coarse tartans, kelt, and blanket stuffs. The state of things is now very different Farming is brought to the highest degree of ex- cellence, that industry, skill, and expense can bring it to. Nor is it too much to say, that the system of fanning, at present followed in this .parish, does not fall short of the best modes of farming, in any part of the kingdom. The farmers have very good houses, with two public rooms ; and they have their wheeled carriages for per- sonal and family use. Sub-letting is abolished. The small te- nants, or cottars, live in decent cottages built with stone and lime, or clay, with glass windows ; and their fare is correspond- ingly better. Tradesmen and ploughmen, on Sundays, wear good long coats of English manufacture, white shirts, hats, and silk handkerchiefs ; and the females of the same class wear good cotton gowns, shawls or scarfs, and many of them straw bonnets. There are, of all descriptions of road, in the parish, about forty miles, — of which about twelve were made by the Parliamentary GOLSPIE. 45 Commissioners and the county; about eighteen, partly at the expense of the proprietors, and partly by an assessment on the te- nantry ; and ten miles at the sole expense of the proprietors* In no county of Scotland was there ever, in so short a time, the same length of road made, as there has been, within the last twenty years, in the county of Sutherland. In former times, the inter- nal communication was by mere paths or tracks, and many parts of it were all but inaccessible. Now, several hundred miles of good road intersect the county in every direction ; and there is free and easy access to every part of it. These roads were made chiefly at the expense of the noble proprietors of this parish, and under the able management of James Loch, Esq. M. P. their commissioner. In the months of July and August of last year, ldd2, that aw- ful scourge, the Asiatic cholera, by which so many millions of the human race have been destroyed since 1817, visited this parish also. Every possible precaution was adopted, and every known preventive was used^ to ward it ofL A Board of Health was established, large subscriptions and assessments of money were made, aU manner of cleanliness was enforced, the poor were fed and clothed well, vagrants were kept away ; and the result was, that, although the fishermen of the village of Golspie brought the infection from the fishing station of Helmsdale, and although the disease made its appearance in the village, in its most malig- nant form, quickly carrying off three individuals, the infection was, by the mercy of Divine providence, arrested and destroyed, while a very great proportion of the population of other villages, in the adjacent county, and separated only by a few miles of sea, perished miserably. Too much praise cannot be bestowed on the pro* prietors and farmers of this county, for the heavy expense which they incurred, and the great exertions which they made, on the peri- lous occasion. It most fortunately happened, that the Duke and Duchess of Sutherland, with Lord and Lady Staffed and their family, were at the time at Dunrobin, and it were great injustice not to record here the most humane, liberal, and unwearied atten- tion, which they paid to the safety of the population, and especially to the health and comfort of the poor. March 1833. BevUed September 1834. PARISH OF ROGART. PRESBYTERY OF DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. JOHN MACKENZIE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Roaird is the name of this parish in the Gaelic lan- guage. How it came to be written and pronounced Rogart can only be accounted for by the diflSculty in pronouncing the name to those who did not speak that language. It is evident that Ro- gart is a modification of Roaird. Various etymologies have been assigned to this word. The most probable is, that it is an abbre- viation of two Gaelic words, rhidhe^ an inclined plain, and ardj high. In the district of the parish called Roaird, which gives the name to the whole parish, there is Roaird-bheff and Roaird'-mhor ; both inclined plains of no great extent, but one, Roaird-iheg of less extent than the other, as the name implies. Rhidhe and JRhidhea' chaUf in the pluralj are conunon in Sutherland, and all of them are used as names of inclined plains. To give an idea of the liberty used with Gaelic names^ when attempted in another language, it may be mentioned, that Rhidheachan is found in this county, and in the neighbouring county, Ross-shire, to have passed into Rhives. In like manner, Roaird has been changed into Rogart. Extent^ Boundaries. — This parish is of nearly equal length and breadth, and forms a square of ten miles. It is bounded on the east by parts of the parishes of Dornoch and Golspie ; on the south by parts of the parishes of Dornoch and Criech ; on the west by the parish of Lairg ; and on the north by parts of the parishes of Clyne and Farr. It comprehends, on the south side, the whole of Strathfleet ; on the north side, the upper division of Strathbrora, and an interjacent space, consisting of low hills, flat moors, meadows, small lakes, and the courses of many bums issu- ing from them to form the river Fleet, and to swell the Brora, which has its source in a distant mountain. Topographical Appearances. — Strathfleet, in the language of the ROOART. 47 inhabitants, is called Strathfloid; and the small river passing through it is called in that language Flodag the diminutive of Flodj a word signifying inundation, to which this stream is subject. This strath is ten miles in length, and of irregular width. In some parts it is three-fourths of a mile wide; in other parts it is contracted to with- in a few yards of the stream passing through it Both sides of it rise to an elevation of from 500 to 700 feet above the course of the Fleet, — ^in some parts abruptly, but generally in sloping banks, which are occasionally cultivated and produce crops. The part of Strathbrora which is in this parish bears a resem- blance to Strathfleet, — the difference being such as may be ac- counted for by the action of a larger body of water, which has in some places cut deeper into the rock, forming chasms. In other parts, the water meets with less resistance, the valley is widened, and lengthened haughs are formed. Being nearer the mountain- ous region, the aspect of this strath is of a more rugged character than that of Strathfleet The hills between these straths are nearly of equal height, and rise to an elevation of from 800 to 900 feet above the level of the sea. The meadows, which are found around some of the lakes and in those flat parts which are subject to irrigation from burns passing through, are not of great extent, and form but a small proportion to the extent of the moors. Climate, — The climate of the county of Sutherland, from its latitude and exposure to the winds of the German and Northern Ocean, is sharp and cold. The greater part of Rogart, owing to its elevation, and to its having but little shelter from the east wind, and being swept by every blast coming from the high mountains of Assynt and Strathnaver, is much exposed to the severity of a cold atmosphere. Yet snow does not lie long here, and frost is not very intense. Winter, however, leaves us but reluctantly, continuing during the greater part of spring ; and it often arrives in the last month of harvest At the times alluded to, we have our most dis- agreeable weather, — cold easterly winds, bringing sleet or rain. The most frequent winds, however, are the north and east, but the south-west blows with greatest violence. Summer here has a great proportion of dry weather ; as the rains which fall among the high mountains in this season do not extend to this place. A dry scorching summer is more frequently a subject of complaint with us than one too rainy. Nor can it be 48 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. said that we have more rain in winter than there is in other parts of this island. Notwithstanding the coldness of our climate, however, it is re- mariuibly healthy. With the exception of catarrhs in the months of March and October, diseases but rarely visit the inhabitants. Hydrography, — The lakes in this parish are very numeroins, but not remarkable for extent Of Loch Craggie, in its western ex- tremity, anglers i^ak with rapture for the size and quality of its trout, and for the excellent sport it affords. In the north-eastern extremity of the parish, there are two lakes in which fine trout are found. Their name implies that they were once on this account held in estimation ; b6th being called Loch^beannadied^ Lake of Blessinff, The only rivers are those already mentioned, the Fleet and th^ Brora. Even the larger* of these is insignificant in summer and harvest ; but both when in flood, discharge a great body of water, and often cover almost the whole of the plains in their courses, so as to present the appearance of a succession of lakes. The Fleet has its origin in a rising ground, forming the boundary between the parishes of Rogart and Laiig. After traversing ten miles, from west to east, in many windings, fringed with birch and alder bushes, it enters an extensive plain, once covered by every tide from the Moray Frith, but now encroached upon only by this stream : the waters of the sea being completely shut out by the earthen mound, at the head of the lAtile Ferry. In this place, where it is not con- fined by the skill and enterprise of the agriculturist, it appears almost completely lost among rapidly growing alders, untfl it collects itself into a pool, or forms a considerable lake, before being discharged into the sea by the sluices of the mound. The Brora is about twice the size of the Fleet, has its origin in the high moun- tain Beinclibric, and passes from west to east, traversing ten miles of this parish in its course. It then enters the parish of Clyne, where it unites with another river called the Blackwater, and pas- sing through that parish, it joins the Moray Frith at a village to which it has given its name, and affords a harbour for light shipping. Geology and Mineralogy. — Rogart lies chiefly on gneiss rock, in which the only veins seen are of quartz. It is of a large-grained kind, with a great proportion of mica. It is used in building the houses and cottages of the inhabitants, and is found an excellent material for the purpose, being easily wrought ROGAUT. 49 Over the whole of the parish, rolled blocks of granite are seen in great numbers on the surface ; in some parts, if viewed from a dis- tance, the surface appears covered with them. They are found no less numerous under ground in hollows, where there has been an accumulation of soil to cover them. Of the whole surface of Rogart, moss forms the largest propor- tion. In some parts it is very deep, found often to a depth of twelve feet. In those parts where its depth is less, its fresh ap- pearance indicates rapid growth. The soil in the valleys, and covering the sides of the hills, is sandy and gravelly. The land abounds in springs ; consequently, to be brought into a state of culture, it requires to be intersected with frequent drains. Plants. — The moors produce heather, deers'-hair and cotton- grass, intermixed in proportions said to be highly favourable for the feeding of sheep. The hills are covered with heather on the tops, but on their sides a mixture of fine grasses is to be found ; and, around their bases, red and white clover, and mountain daisy, are conmion. The meadows and straths are covered with the meadow grasses prevalent in similar situations, and, where irrigated, are very productive. Zoology, — Roe-deer may always be seen here, but not in great num- bers. The red mountain-dee r is occasionally seen crossing the moors to or from the mountains north of this, which abound in that species of animal. The gray mountain-hare is here common on the higher grounds. The brown hare, and of late the rabbit, are found on the lower grounds, — the former exceedingly numerous. Moor- fowl are still abundant, though less so, it is said, than they have been. Black game, which are said to increase as moor-fowl de- crease, are become very numerous. Goats were once a part of the stock of the inhabitants, but they have now nearly disappeared, giving way to more profitable animals. There is a species of sheep, of small size, formerly the only kind known here, still reared by the occupants of small lots of land, and much commended for fineness of fleece and excellence of mutton ; but they are likely soon to disappear also, — those who have them appreciating the better size of the Cheviot sheep. A great variety of trout is found in the lakes. Salmon, grilse, and sea trout, are taken in the Brora and Fleet. The trout make for the bums falling into, or issuing from, the lakes, in the month of October, to deposit their spawn ; and their spawning season lasts SUTHERLAND. D 50 SUTHERLAND8HIRE. generally till the beginning of November, and seldom or never ex- tends beyond the middle of that month. Salmon begin to spawn fourteen days later, and before the middle of December ; that process being finished, they return to the sea. Salmon enter the Fleet in the end of May. They are found, and were taken, till a recent act of Parliament prohibited, at the mouth of the Brora, as early as the end of January ; but they are not seen in the upper part of that river, — the part belonging to this parish, — till the commencement of summer. II. — Civil History. Land-'Oioners. — The Duke and Duchess of Sutherland are pro- prietors of nearly the whole parish of Rogart. The other proprie- tors of land in it are, George Dempster, Esq. of Skibo, and Hugh Rose Ross, Esq. of GlastuUich and Cromarty, who have each a small patch in it unconnected with their principal estates. Antiquities, — At a place called Corrie, where there are indica- tions of the existence in former times of oak trees, imperfect re- mains of a Druidical circle are to be seen. The inhabitants, quite unconscious of the sacrilege, finding the stones composing it suit- able, carried them away for the purposes of building, so that but few of them are now to be seen. Tradition accords with the rude but certain monuments of battles, in showing that Rogart was in past times the scene of violent con- tests, and of much bloodshed. A ridge of hills crossing the eastern extremity of the parish from north to south, and extending from Strathbrora to Strathfleet, is covered with tumuli, which appear to have been thrown over the slain where they fell. One of these was opened lately by dikers erecting a fence around the glebe, having no idea that they invaded the resting place of a warrior, probably of an ancestor. They found in the centre of it a stone coffin, containing mouldered bones, and the blade of a dirk, or short dagger, which seemed to have been wielded by the hand of some leader, being of a more costly description than the com- mon dirk, coated with gold, and marked with lines, crossing one another at acute angles, and terminating in the point. It is likely that this bloody instrument was broken, and covered, in the wound it inflicted, and was thus retained in the body of its victim. The Earl of Montrose on his return from Orkney passed un- molested through Strathfleet, where he and his followers halted for a night at a place called Rhin. The stillness and beauty of ROGART. 51 that spot forms a striking contrast with the stru^le and disaster to which the next day's march conducted him. From Rhin he marched to Strathoicail, on the heights of which this bravest of unfortunate men fought his last battle. III. — Population. A continued decrease is found in the population of the parish of Rogart since the year 1811, — ^as may be seen by comparing the census of that year with the census of 1831, and with these sta- tistics. This decrease has been caused by emigration to the pro- vinces subject to Britain in North America,— chiefly to Upper Canada. Population in 1801, • -2022 1811, • 2148 1821, - 1966 1831, . 1805 For the last : seven years the average number of births is deaths. - marriages, The number of persons under 15 years of age, is • betwixt 15 and 30, . » 30 and 50, • . 50 and 70, _ . upwards of 70, - 40 29 10 685 413 350 236 64 The number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, is-- - - - - 25 The number of unmarried women upwards of 45 years of age» is -46 families is • - - - 386 The average number of children in each family is - - 3 The number of femilies in the parish, ... S86 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 279 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 19 The number of inhabited houses, ... 986 houses now building, ... 4 insane persons, - - - - 3 fatuous, ..... 3 dumb persons, - - - - 1 Language. — The Celtic, or GaeHc, language is spoken by almost all the inhabitants. There are a few shepherds who do not speak this language ; but their families do. A considerable proportion of the inhabitants, however, can converse in the English language ; and, in a few years it is likely that none may be found who cannot do so. llieir English, being acquired from books, and occasional conversation with educated persons, is marked by no peculiarity, except a degree of mountain accent and Celtic idiom ; so that it is more easily intelligible to an Englishman than the dialect spoken by the Lowland Scotch. Charojcter of the People. — A desire for information . prevails among them, as, indeed, among all the inhabitants of the High- 52 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. land districts ; and the degree of information they possess is more than could be expected from the advantages enjoyed by them. The young, in general, read Gaelic and English ; and some 'of them write and understand arithmetic Such of those advanced in years as have been taught to read, delight much in the Holy Scriptures, and in some of the popular works of the early divines of the church of Scotland, — ^which, having been read and talked of for genera- tions, have acquired a sacredness of character. They are all Pres- byterians, and firmly attached to the religion and modes of worship of their forefathers. They have hitherto been respectful to per- sons in stations superior to their own, peaceable and orderly in their intercourse with one another, and have seldom or never been charged with the commission of crime. Smuggling, happily for their cha- racter and circumstances, has been checked. Poaching in game, or in the salmon fisheries, is not attempted by them. There have been three illegitimate births in the parish during the last three years. IV. — Industry. A great part of the population of this parish is employed as day-labourers for more than half the year. The men find employ- ment in the making or repairing of roads ; or from the tacksmen in parishes along the coast as extra labourers in spring and harvest- time ; or, during the season of the herring fishing, in curing fish at the fishing stations. The women find employment with the farmers in weeding, hoeing, and cutting down crops, and with the fish-curers at the proper season. A certain portion of time is, of course, oc- cupied in the cultivation of their own lots, and in securing the crops which these produce. Some elderly persons of both sexes, helped by children not attending schools, are always occupied at home in herding cattle. Agriculture and Sheep^Farming. — The proportion of land in culture and yielding crops is small, and must always be so, while naked rock forms a considerable part of the surface of the pa- rish. It has, however, for several years back, been increasing ; and it is likely, that, in the course of some years, what is now occupied by letters, if left in their occupation, may become culti- vated where practicable. The quantity of land cultivated, or oc- casionally in tillage, does not at present exceed 1200 acres. Nearjy the half of the parish in value, and more than the half in extent, is laid under sheep of the Cheviot breed. It is no less than 3 ROGART. 53 62,800 acres in extent Probably 1000 acres might yet be added to the cultivated land. Husbandry. — The pasture for sheep is good, and the sheep reared on it are said to be of the best quality of their kind. Sur- face draining, which has been carried on to a great extent, has added much to the quantity, and improved the quality, of feeding for sheep. In this species of improvement, little remains to be now done here by the sheep-farmer. Large farms are let on leases of nineteen, and small lots on leases of seven, years. Live-stock, — The number of sheep of all kinds is 6420 ; of black cattle, (heads of,) 1079; of horses, 276; of pigs, 210. Rent, — The rent of sheep-lands is • L. 648 of corn-fiinns, - - 281 of lands under lotters, - 569 Total rent, - L. 1498 Woods, — Timber as yet cannot be mentioned as one of the pro- ducts of the parish of Rogart. A small space in Strathfleet, about twenty acres, having some native plants of oak, was enclosed, and planted with larch and common fir. The appearance of this small plantation, which has been lately thinned for the first time, afibrds sufficient encouragement for planting in situations equally favour- able ; of which situations the sides of that strath, and several other parts in the parish, present many. Small alders are to be seen along the streams ; and patches of dwarf birch are common. Both of these, when in foliage, enliven the aspect, and relieve the ruder features of the scenery ; but otherwise they are of no value. Produce, — The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : — Grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man or the domestic animali, 3000 bolls at las. per boll, .... L.2250 Potatoes, 1500 bolb at 8ft. per boll, - . . 600 Hay, 10,000 stones at 4d. - . - . 166 13 4 Land in pasture, rating it at 10s. per cow or full-grown ox, grazed, or that may be grazed for the season ; at 2b. per ewe or full-grown sheep, pastured, or that may be pastured for the year, - 1300 Miscellaneous produce, including turnips, cabbages, &c. not enume- rated under any of the foregoing heads, ... 400 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, - 1^.4716 13 4 V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication, — A road extends through the whole length of the parish along Strathfleet ; and another crosses its 54 SUTHERLANDSHIBE. breadth at the eastern end, from Strathfleet to Strathbronu The road in Strathfleet is a continuation of a line of road {torn Golspie to Tongue ; from which roads branch off in various direc- tions. From the cross-road to Strathbrora there is a road branch- ing off to Golspie, and forming a more direct and shorter way to that village for the mhabitants of the interior of the parish* Along these lines of road there are sufficient bridges. There is no post-office in this parish. Letters to and from it, for which there is a receiving-office at Pitentrail, are carried twice a-week by a mail-gig running between Golspie and Tongue. It is probable, other improvements continuing to advance, that the communication may become more frequent. Ecclesiastical State. — The church and manse are situated, not far from each ofher, in one of the most elevated parts of the pa- rish, commanding an extensive and romantic view, — in which the peaks of almost all the high mountains in the county of Sutherland form a part. This is a source of enjojTnent which is dearly pur- chased, by the exposure to the wind and storm. ^ The manse was built in the year 1776, and the church in 1777. The church has undergone some repair, and the manse has frequently been re- paired ; but, owing to the very exposed situation of the latter, it cannot be said to be in a good condition. For the parish, the situation of the church is most inconvenient, — being in its ex- treme boundary on the east Consequently, some of the parishion- ers travel ten miles in coming to hear sermon ; which, being doubled before they return to their homes, is a severe exertion, though it be cheerfully made, even in the short days of winter. The dis- tance of the parishioners from the manse is also productive of much trouble and inconvenience to them. Having few besides their minister whom they consult, various and often recurring are the occasions which oblige them to travel from their place of resi- dence to his. The minister's stipend is L. 138, 14s. 2^\d. Sterling, and 15 bolls, 1 firlot, 1 peck, 3 lippies, half-meal and half-barley, includ- ing the allowance for communion elements; so that he draws L..3, Is. 5d. from Exchequer, to make his income equal to the minimum stipend in the Church of Scotland. The glebe con- sists of arable and pasture land. The arable part has lately been considerably increased, by trenching small sjpots capable of im- provement : so that it may be about eighteen acres in extent A ROGART. 55 patch of green pasture, rocks, and spots covered with stinted heather, extend its surface to about twenty-five acres. Occupied alone, its value is not much, — servants, horses, and farming implements suf- ficient for the culture of a small farm being required for it But if held along with an extent of land which would enable him to cul- tivate it conveniently, the occupant might find the arable part of it worth 15s. per acre, and the pasture of corresponding vadue. Tlie church is the only place of worship in the parish. There is a catechist supported by an allowance from the inhabitants, to which the minister contributes : he labours constantly among them. The average number of communicants is 90. Education. — There are three schools at present in operation in the parish, — the parochial school, a school supported by the General Assembly, and a GaeUc school, supported by the Gaelic School Society. In the parochial school, English reading, writing, arith- metic, book-keeping, mensuration, and land-surveying, are taught. In the General Assembly's school, English reading, Gaelic read- ing, writing, arithmetic, and sometimes the rudiments of Latin, are taught In the Graelic school, the reading of the Gaelic only is taught. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is L. 34, 4s. 4^d. The average amount of school fees received by him is L. 16. The salary of the General Assembly schoolmaster is L. 20. The ave- rage amount of school fees received by him is L. 2, 10s. The teacher of the Gaelic school is not allowed to take fees, by the regulations of the society. He is not stationary in any place. His salary is L. 25. To these teachers the requisite accommo- dations are given. Fees are exigible from those who can pay them in the General Assembly's school, at the same rate as in the parochial ; but the greater part of the scholars are not in cir- cumstances to afford them. In the parochial school, the fees per quarter are, for English reading, 2s. ; English reading and writ- ing, 2s. ; English reading, writing, and arithmetic, ds. ; book- keeping, 10s. ; mensuration and land-surveying, 10s. Many of the inhabitants cannot read or write : Of these, the number of all ages above six years, given in the Report to the General Assem- bly's Committee in 1832, was 842 ; and the number betwixt six and twenty years, 290. There is a district of the parish, Barrschol and Craiggies^ con- taining a population of about 200, which is four miles distant from 56 SUTHERLANOSHIRE. the parochial school, and has no other school within reach. There is another district of the parish, in which some families re- side, Braes of Langwel and Achinluachrach^ at a still greater dis- tance from any permanent school, in which the Gaelic Society's teacher at present officiates. Poor and Parochial Funds, — On an average of years, the num- ber of paupers regularly receiving parochial aid may be stated at 84 ; but, in addition to these, there are several who receive occasional aid. Persons admitted on the poors' roll are generally advanced in age ; and charges for the interment of paupers form a consider- able expense on the fund. This fund consists of a yearly donation from the Ducliess of Sutherland, regularly made, but depending on her Grace's good will, interest of L. 200 bequeathed by a be- nevolent individual, a native of the parish, and the church col- lections, the yearly average amount of which is L. 16. The average annual allowance to each pauper for some years back has been 4s. 9d. It has been felt degrading to receive parochial re- lief ; but there are many applicants for it who are rejected. Inns. — There are three houses in the parish, and one on the confines of it, licensed to retail spirits. They are found injurious to the morals and circumstances of the working classes. FueL — Moss, cut as peats in the months of May and June, and abounding of the best quality at no great distance from the inhabitants, is the fuel used by all. It is procured at considerable expense of time and labour ; but the very poorest never fail to supply themselves with a stock sufficient for the year's consump- tion. Miscellaneous Observations. In the parochial school, writing and accounts have been so well taught for several years back, that many young men have set out from the parish, and found employment, some as clerks in mercantile towns, and some on plantation estates in the West In- dies. In general, these are reported to be persevering and indus- trious ; and small remittances frequently made to poor relatives, afford a pleasing proof that they are prosperous. Were the means of acquiring education given more fully, there is reason to con- clude that, in every respect, an improvement in the condition of the inhabitants must follow. Roads and bridges justly claim particular mention in the im- provements which have taken place here, since the time of the last ROGART. 57 Statistical Account. They have changed the mode, as well as im- proTed the facility, of every species of carriage. Sledges, which may soon become one of the objects interesting to the antiquary, were formerly the best means of carriage which those in better circum^ stances could use in farming, and for other purposes. Now, almost every poor man who cultivates a croft of land, has his wheeled cart. The greatest change has taken place in the habits of the people since the last Account. They are now very industrious in general, and surpassed by none around them as willing, skilful, and active l^ourers in all those kinds of work which the extensive and varied improvements carried on in the county have supplied to its po- pulation. The traveller interested in the comfort of the working-classes must regard the cottages in this parish as pleasing objects ; and their number, seen, as they often are, in picturesque situations, must strike every observer, as giving life and interest to the scene pre- sented to his view. In no part of the North Highlands, are there so many well built neat-looking cottages as in the county of Suther- land. Whoever sees them, must form a favourable idea of the industry of the inhabitants, and of the encouragement afforded them by the proprietor of the soil. September 1834. Nv PARISH OF LAIRG. PRESBYTERY OF DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. DUNCAN M'GILLIVRAY, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Extent^ Sfc. — This parish seems to lake its name from the Gaelic word " Loeg^^ signifying a " footpath." This defini- tion agrees well with its situation, as the road from the northern to the southern parts of the county, which till recently was only a footpath, passes through Lairg. Its length may be stated at thirty miles from £• to W., and its greatest breadth is about four- teen miles. Its extent in square miles, inclusive of the lake, is about 240 miles. Topographical Appearcmces. — It is an inland parish, distant from the sea about twenty miles; it is bounded on the north by the parish of Farr; on the west by Assynt and Eddrachillis ; on the south by Criech ;* and on the east by Rogart. There are hills of various elevations in most parts of the parish, and on its northern boundary stands Ben Clybric, the highest mountain in Suther- land. From the elevation of the parish above the level of the sea, which, though not minutely ascertained, is very considerable, the air is always pure, and in winter exceedingly cold. But though a good deal of rain and snow fall during the year, the climate can- not be called rainy : it is at all events a healthy one, and there are no distempers peculiar to the district. Hydrography, — There are about twenty lakes in the parish, of various extent and depth ; but the principal one is Lochshin, which runs very nearly from one end of the parish to the other. It is about twenty-four miles long; its mean breadth is at least one mile, and its depth in some places thirty fathoms. — There are five rivers in the parish, some of them very rapid. Four of these fall into Lochshin, and the fifth discharges its waters into the sea. Geology, — The geology of the parish has never been surveyed, but the principal rocks are coarse granite and trap. There is al- so at the side of the lake a large bed of limestone. LAIRG. 59 The most common alluvial deposit is peat, between which and the rock, gravel is generally found. In some places, however, the soil is loamy and fertile. Immense quantities of fir are found im- bedded in the moss in all parts of the parish, — a proof dat at one time the ground was covered with wood. At present, however, there is none except some birch which grows along the lake. IL — Civil Histoey. This parish does not appear in remote times to have produced any men of great eminence. In the absence of such, a few indi- viduals may therefore be mentioned, connected with, or natives of, the parish during the last century, and whose names are not un- worthy of a place in this record. The first we shall notice, is the Rev. John Mackay, a man of superior birth and education, who in 1714 was translated to Lairg from his native parish of Durness on the west coast Mr Mackay found this parish in a rude uncivilized state, owing, among other causes, to the lingering remains of popish superstition and igno- rance, and to the want of a resident ministry for several years be- fore. The Earls of Sutherland, the hereditary sheriffs of the county, strenuously endeavoured to remedy this evil, but found it difficult to procure faithful ministers of the Gospel, able to admi- nister spiritual instruction to the people in their native language. In Mr John Mackay the Earl of Sutherland found a man peculiarly fit- ted for such a charge, — as, with a profound knowledge of theology, acquired at the Universities of Utrecht and Edinburgh, and an enlightened zeal for the propagation of the gospel, he had a robust bodily frame, and corresponding vigour of mind. The parish af- forded ample scope for the exercise of his talents, — disorderly habits and immorality prevailing to a great degree, and drunken quarrels, even to the effusion of blood, being of frequent occur- rence in the churchyard on the Lord's day, after divine service, as appears from a fragment of the session records still extant To repress such enormities, the Earl invested his new presentee with a salutary, though not strictly legal power, to use force and inflict corporal punishment when he judged it necessary. Armed with this authority, Mr John Mackay proceeded vigorously to the work of reformation among his people ; in which he was further assisted by a certain air of moral elevation in his bearing, which overawed persons of the most profligate character. He sometimes had re- course to very strong measures : but at length, by the blessing of God on his spiritual labours, he had the satisfaction to see pure religion in a flourishing state among his people. He died in 1753, 60 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. and was succeeded by his son, the Rev. Thomas Mackay, who laboured fifty years in the parish with great success. The names of both father and son are still remembered with affectionate reve- rence. Mr T. Mackay left three sons, of whom the two youngest, Hugh and William, distinguished themselves in their respective professions. Hugh Mackay entered the service of the East India Company in 1784, and served in the Madras Native Cavalry during all the wars in which the Madras army was engaged. He held an im- portant and lucrative staff appointment, that of agent for draught and carriage cattle to the army under General Wellesley, now the Duke of Wellington, whose favour and confidence he en- joyed to a large degree. His staflF situation exempted him from regimental duty ; yet such was his high military spirit, that, rather than remain idle in the rear, when his brother ofiicers were engaged, he solicited permission to join his regiment in the battle of Assaye, and obtained from the General a reluctant assent. He was killed at the muzzle of the enemy's guns, in that desperate charge of the cavalry which decided the fate of the day ; and on the spot where he fell, the officers of his regiment have erected a monument to his memory. Besides many acts of beneficence at home and abroad, he bequeathed at his death L. 500 to the kirk-session of this parish, for the use of the poor. William, third son of the Rev. Thomas Mackay, was educated at the school of this parish, and went to sea at the age of sixteen. He made several voyages to the East and West Indies, during the intervals between which, he studied the theory of navigation and practical astronomy under able teachers in London, and became such a proficient in both, as to be esteemed one of the most skil- ful navigators in the Indian seas. In 1795, being second officer of the ship Juno of Calcutta, he was sent to the coast of Pegu for a cargo of teak-wood, and in his return was wrecked on the coast of Arracan. The ship sprang a leak, and filled so fast with water, in spite of the exertions of her crew, that, but for the nature of her cargo, she must inevitably have gone to the bottom. She conti- nued, however, to sink till her hull was under water, and then settled down, leaving her masts to stand erect. To lighten her burthen the main mast was cut away, and the unfortunate crew, seventy-two in number, scrambled up the rigging of the two remaining masts to escape immediate destruction. In this situation, without food or water, but what the rain from Heaven supplied, fourteen individuals, including the captain's wife and her maid, lived twenty-three days. LAIRG. 61 Of the riest, some died from hunger, others from thirst, and a few in strong convulsions or in raving madness ! The wreck having at length taken the ground, fourteen were saved by the merciful interposition of Providence in their behalf. The principal survivor was William Mackay, and he pubHshed a narrative of the sufferings and escape of himself and his companions, — ^which, from the extraordinary nature of the facts, and the graphical felicity of his narration, bids fair to transmit his name to posterity. * Immediately after this wonderful preservation, William Mackay returned to sea, and after various adventures, was in 1 801 dispatched by the Bengal government in command of a brig, to the Red Sea with stores and provisions for General Baird's army, destined to co-operate with that of Sir Ralph Abercromby in Egypt. On this voyage, he had another marvellous escape from shipwreck, and was instrumental, by superior seamanship, under God, in saving the lives of many others, as may be seen in the appendix to a late edition of the Narrative of the Juno. He died at Calcutta in 1804, from an affection of the liver, contracted during the twenty-three dreadful days he passed on the wreck, f In the churchyard of this parish there is a square monument with a separate tablet for each, commemorating, by an appropriate inscription, the characters of the Rev. John Mackay, his son, and two grandsons. Concern- ing the last, it is said, " their bodies lie in the opposite quarter of the globe, but their monument is erected where their memory is dearest, near the remains of their pious fathers, and amidst many living, whose gratitude will attest, that fraternal affection has not overcharged this record of their virtues."J * It is a circumstance worthy of remark, that from this narrative Lord Bjrron has borrowed some of the finest incidents and most touching images in the de- scription of a shipwreck, in his poem of Don Juan. Concerning these passages the biographer of the noble poet observes • " It will be felt, I think, by every reader, that this Ls one of the instances in which poetry must be content to yield the palm to prose. There is a pathos in the last sentences of the seaman's recital (see Narrative of the Shipwreck of the Juno, page 26,) which the artifices of metre and rhyme wei e sure to disturb, and which, indeed, no verses, however beautiful, could half so natu- rally and powerfully express." It deserves to be recorded, to the honour of our Scot- tish parochial schools, that this narrative was written by a young man who had gone to sea ten years before, without any more education than he received at the school of his native parish. f A tribute of remembrance, similar to that which his brother's memory received from his regiment, has been paid to the memory of W^illiam by his friends, who have, in the churchyard of Calcutta, recorded his worth, sufferings, and death. ^ It may not be irrelevant to subjoin a list of sons or grandsons of the clergy, who, at the time above referred to, were on General Wellesley's staff, and all of whom had been recommended to him solely by their own merits viz* iH, Captain Hugh Mackay, agent for draught and carriage cattle to the army, killed at Assaye, 2dd September 180a 2di Captain, afterwards I^icut.- Colonel Sir Robert Barclay, K. C B., Adjutant- General, Son of the Rev. Mr Barclay, minister of Del ting, Shetfcind, deceased. 62 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. lAxnd'Ovmers.'^The land-owners in the parish are the Duchess of Sutherland ; Munro of Poyntziield ; and Rose of Achany. Parochial Register. — There is a parochial register regularly kept, but the earliest entry is dated only in 1768. Antiquities. — There is at a place called " Cnoek a chath" (the Hill of the Fight) a number of tumuli, said to be the graves of those who fell in a skirmish between the Sutherlands and the Mackays. There are also found in various parts of the parish strong circular buildings called cairns. What the design of these was, cannot now be ascertained. When the people are questioned on this subject, the only answer is, — " They were built by the Fingalians." It is a curious circumstance, that one of these buildings is always visible from the site of another. IIL — Population. The present population of the parish is about 1100. Wliat the ancient state of the population was, cannot now be discovered : but about thirty years ago, it was far greater than at present A system commenced in this country about the year 1807, which has been followed out extensively. As the interior of the country con- sisted principally of moor grounds covered with heath, the pro- prietors were convinced that these grounds could be more profit- ably laid out in sheep-walks, than (as formerly) in the rearing of black*cattle. With this view, the interior was let to sheep-farmers, and the tenantry were removed either to the coast, or to those parts of the country more susceptible of cultivation. Lairg, being an inland parish, this circumstance accounts for the great de- crease in its population. From Mr Rose's property, the tenants were all removed some years before he purchased it ; and although the Duchess of Sutherland and Munro of Poyntzfield have still a considerable number of tenants, yet they are far less numerous than formerly. As to the measure of comfort enjoyed by the people, the chief want is pasture for their cattle during the summer months. The Duchess of Sutherland's tenantry have their land on very mo- derate terms; and though their pasture is at present confined, this defect (we believe) is to be immediately remedied. The other tenants in the parish are certainly less comfortable, — they 2d, Captain, now Lieut.- CoL, 'William Cunningham, Quarter-master- General, grandson of the Rev. Mr Robertson of Gladsmuir, and nephew of Principal Robert- son. 4th, Captain, afterwards Mijor- General Sir John Malcolm, G. C. B., political agent to the Governor- General, afterwards governor of Bombay, deceased. IrAIRG. 63 not only want pasture, but their rents far exceed the value of the land ; and the appearance of their houses tells but too plainly the condition of their inhabitants. The population of the parish is now rapidly decreasing, as may be seen from the following state- ment : — Population in 1801, - 1209 in 1811, . 1354 in 1821, . 1094 in 1831, . 1045 1. Xtimber of families in the parish, > ... 206 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 124 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 6 2. The average number of births yearly for the last 7 years, . . 27 ordeaths, . . . . 154 of marriages, ... .3 Language^ Character^ 8fc. of the People — The language gene- rally spoken is the Gaelic ; and, although all the young people now speak English, the Gaelic can hardly be said to have lost ground, and the people, from being taught to read it, speak it more correctly than they did some years ago. The inhabitants of the parish are an interesting people ; — they are cleanly in their habits, and neat in their dress ; they combine intelligence with modesty, and due respect for their superiors ; they are sober, moral, and industrious ; and they show a becoming re- gard for the ordinances of religion. IV. — Industry. ' Agriculture and Rural Economy. — From the description already given of the parish, as consisting principally of moor ground, it will be seen that very little can be said under the head of agricul- ture. There is no great corn farm in the parish ; and, with the exception of the lots occupied by the tenants, (which all lie within two and a-half miles of the church,) the whole of it has been turn- ed into sheep-walks. The breed of sheep on these farms is the Cheviot, and that, too, we believe, of a superior kind, — as much attention has been paid to its improvement in all parts of the county. The average rent of grazing on the sheep farms does not exceed 2s. a-head ; but what number of sheep there are on these farms, the writer has no means of discovering. The lotters on the Duchess of Sutherland's property raise, in favourable seasons, as much corn as supplies their families during the year ; and of late, a very de- cided improvement has been manifested in the mode of cultivating their land. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Commtmication. — There is no market-town in the pa- rish, nor any nearer than Dornoch, which is distant from Lairg 64 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. about twenty miles. This want, however, is little Telt, the people having every advantage as regards the means of communication with other parts of the country. The roads (of which there are about forty miles in the parish) are excellent There is a post- office, at which a post-gig carrying passengers arrives twice a-week ; and an idea of the means of communication enjoyed may be had from the fact, that the London papers are received at Lairg on the morning of the fifth day from the day of publication. Ecclesiastical State. — The parochial church, though distant about twenty miles from the western extremity of the parish, is exceed- ingly well situated for the convenience of the people, as, with few exceptions they all reside in its neighbourhood. It was built in 1 794, and is always kept in a good state of repair. It accommodates about 500 people, and no seat-rents are exacted. — The manse was built in 1795, and was last repaired about eight years ago. — The glebe contains ten acres of arable land, and may be valued at L. 8 a^year. At one period, there was a considerable extent of hill pasture connected with the glebe; this, however, has been lost by reason of a circumstance of common occurrence in the Highlands, — the clergy neglected, till it was too late, to have their glebes regularly designed. — The stipend amounts to L. 184, 14s., including L.8, 6s. 8d. for conununion elements. The parish church is always well attended : and it is worthy of remark, that there is no dissenting place of worship in the whole county of Sutherland, — a fact which cannot be affirmed of any other county in Britain. Education. — The parochial school is the only one in the parish. Till lately, there was an Assembly school on Major Munro's property, but, owing in a great measure to the thinness of the po- pulation, it has been discontinued. This is the only part of the parish where a school is required at present. In the parochial school, one of the best in the country, all the common branches of education are taught The following table of fees, appointed by the presbytery, will give an idea of the expense of education. English and Gaelic reading, Is. 6d. a quarter; English grammar, 6s. ; writing, 2s. ; arithmetic, 2s. 6d. ; and Latin, ds. a quarter. The school is always well attended; and the interest which the people now take in the education of their children may be learned from the fact, that, whilst the persons above fifteen years of age who cannot read or write are to the rest of the population of the same age as 1 to 4, or in all 260, the proportion in the case of ■ ihc^^^tween 5 and 15 is only as 1 to 10, or 30 in all. The LAIRG. 65 schoolmaster has the legal accommodations. His salary is L. 34, 4s. 4^d., and this, with school-fees, (which average L. 8, 10s. per annum,) makes his yearly income only L. 42, 14s. 4^d. Poor. — The poor of the parish are comparatively well provided for. The yearly collections are indeed small, not exceeding L. 12; but the Duchess of Sutherland makes a yearly allowance to the poor of all the parishes in which she Has property : and the poor of Lairg have, besides, an annuity of L. 25, being the interest of L. 150 left to them by Captain H. Mackay, above-mentioned. Miscellaneous Observations. On the difference between the present state of the parish, and its state at the time of the last Statistical Account, it is unneces- sary to enlarge. The change produced on the condition of the people by the introduction of sheep-farming has been already no- ticed, — a change which, though for the time it subjected the people to very serious inconvenience, is now showing its salutary effects in the increased industry of the population. In proof of this, we need only refer to the improvements so rapidly going oti in those parts of the parish possessed by the tenantry. It may here be observed, that nothing would tend more to ex- tend these improvements, than giving the* people increased facili- ties for obtaining lime. To accomplish this object, the people should be assisted in working the lime quarries found in this pa- rish ; nor can we doubt, from the enlightened management of the country, that this assistance will soon be afforded. We may far- ther recommend, as a grand means for enlarging the minds and im- proving the morals of the people, the establishment of a parish li- brary. The inhabitants, and especially the young, have a taste for reading, and would eagerly avail themselves of such an institution. For the awakening of this taste, they have been principally indebted to their present -parochial teacher; an individual who has laboured for years not merely to communicate the dry husks of mechanical learning, but to enlighten the mind, and thus improve the character. November 1834. SUTHERLAND. E PARISH OF FARR. PRESBYTERY OF TONGUE, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. DAVID MACKENZIE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The parish appears to have been called Farr, for more than 400 years. The name is probably derived from the Gaelic word Faire, a watch or centinel ; for, about half a mile north of the parish church is the ruin of a circular tower, or Dunn^ the nearest to the sea-coast of a chain of these ancient buildings, ex- tending for more than twenty-four miles into the interior. Not far from this Dunn, is the promontory called Farr Head, from which, in clear weather, there is a distinct view of that part of the northern ocean,' which lies betwixt Orkney and Cape Wrath. From this promontory, a centinel or watch could easily discover * vessels approaching the coast, and, during the period of invasions from Denmark and Orkney, could speedily communicate the ne- cessary intelligence to the inhabitants of the interior, by means of the chain of towers, and such signals as were then in'^use. This, however, is only a conjecture as to the name of the parish, found- ed on the geographical relation of the place now called Farr to Strathnaver, where the principal chain of towers was erected, and which strath, in ancient times, was the most populous and most interesting part of the parish. Extent and Boundaries. — The parish is about forty English miles long, from Baligil in the north-east to Muadale in the south- west ; and varies from eight to twenty miles in breadth, the nar- rowest part being in the middle of Strathnaver. It is bounded on the north by the Northern Ocean ; on the east, by the parish of Reay in Caithness ; on the south, by the parishes of Kildonan and Lairg; and on the west, by the parish of Tongue. Its figure is irregular. Topographical Appearances. — The principal mountain in the parish, and the highest in the county, is Bein Chlibrig. It is near FARR. 67 the south-west extremity, and not far from the Parliamentary road from Bonar Bridge to Tongue, Its height is 3200 feet above the level of the sea. Its form is conical, especially towards the summit, which is called " MealTa'neuion^'* that is, the summit of the Bird, probably from its being the chief residence of ptar-^ migan in the parish. Towards the sea-coast, to the north-east, on each side of Strathnaver, there are several hills, of various dimensions; but they are all far below the elevation of Chli- brig, and have nothing in their form or relative position deserving of notice. Near the coast, the low hills exhibit a greater quan- tity of bare rock, and are in general more precipitous. The greatest quantity and extent of low flat land is in Strath- naver and Strathrathy in the interior ; and in Armidale and Mains of Strathy on the sea-coast There are several farms along the shore, in all of which there is a considerable extent of arable land ; but the surface is uneven. Straths. — The largest valleys are Strathnaver and Strathrathy, Strathnaver, a place from which the Noble family of Sutherland have one of their titles, is a beautiful valley, extending from the sea-coast, in a south-west direction, — a distance of about twenty- eight miles, including the ground along the river, the loch, and the Water of Mudale, beyond Lochnaver. Considering the ex- tent of this strath, the beauty and variety of the scenery, which almost invariably attract the notice of the traveller of taste, and the richness of the pasture it everywhere produces, this valley is undoubtedly the finest and most interesting Highland strath in the whole county of Sutherland. Strathrathy stretches directly south from the sea-coast, a distance of twelve miles ; it is about ten miles north-east of Strathnaver. Between these, along the sea-coast, are situated the valleys of Clachan, where the parish church and manse are built, Swordly, Kirtomy, and Armidale ; but these are quite diminutive compared to those already described. Caves^ Sfc. — There are several caves, natural arches, and fissures, along the sea-coast, and a few caverns in the interior. The most interesting of the caves are in the Aird of Kirtomy, Strathy, and Strathy-point. The finest natural arch is near Farr. It is de- scribed in Pennant's Tour, and referred to in the former Statistical Account of this parish. The largest cavern in the interior is in Cam a'Mhadii in Bein Chhbrig, noted in the traditional history of the parish as the retreat of a robber named Chisholm from In- 68 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. verness-shire, who, more than a hundred years ago, had taken shelter there, and for some time supported himself by the deer of Bein Chlibrig, and the flocks of the neighbouring tenants. Any farther description of the caves and caverns in this parish is con- sidered unnecessary in this work. Bays^ §*c. — There are about thirteen miles of sea-coast, from Naver Bay in the west to Baligil Burn in the east. With the ex- ception of Kirtomy and Armidale, and a few more creeks where boats can land in moderate weather, the coast is either bold and dan- gerous to mariners, being composed of perpendicular or projecting rocks, from 20 to 200 feet high, against which the waves of the North- ern Ocean break with awful fury ; or there are shallow sands, on which heavy surges are almost invariably rolling. The bays are Naver, Farr, Kirtomy, Armidale, and Strathy. The principal headlands are, Airdniskich, Aird of Farr, Aird of Kirtomy, and Strathy Head. From this Head, the Lights of Cape Wrath and Dunnet Head are seen in clear weather. Climate. — Considering the latitude of this parish, which is 58*^ 30' north, the temperature is on the whole mild ; and there are no diseases prevalent that can be ascribed to any peculiarity of the climate. Hydrography, — In every district, valley, mountain, and hill of this parish, there is an abundant supply of perennial springs of ex- cellent water. So far as known to the writer, their chemical pro- perties have not been ascertained ; but it is evident many of them run on iron ore. The number of fresh-water lochs of various di- mensions in the parish is very considerable ; the largest of which are Loch Naver^ Loch Coir^na-feam^ and Loch Strathy, But the most interesting of the whole is Loch Naver, in respect both of ex- tent and scenery. It is 7 miles long, and about I \ miles broad. Its depth is ascertained, by sounding, to be in some parts 30 fathoms. Its shore is in some places pebbly, in other parts rocky and sandy. It is richly supplied from the adjacent hills, mountains, marshes, and valley ground, with large tributary streams, especially the rivers Mudale and Strathvagasty, which enter the loch near the inn of Aultnaharve. The scenery around it is very interesting, having Bein Chlibrig at no great distance on the south ; several low hills and abrupt rocks nearer its shore ; its banks beautifully skirted with a variety of indigenous trees growing to a considerable height ; — the distant hills of Kildonan to the south-east, and those of the Reay country to the west, appearing in their grandeur from certain FAllR. . 69 points in its vicinity. And there is an excellent road on the north side of the loch, from which the tourist can see the whole with ease and advantage. The principal rivers in the parish are the Naver, the Borgie, and the Strathy. The Naver issues from the loch already described, near Achness, at which place it receives a large stream running from Loch Coir^na-feam. From Achness it runs north-east, a distance of eighteen miles, until it enters the ocean at the farm of Airdniskech. Besides its supply from Loch Naver and Loch Coir-na-fearn, it receives a number of considerable streams in its course through the strath, so that, when flooded in winter, it is the largest river in the county. The Naver is not rapid in its course, the declivity of the strath being very gradual. The Strathy flows from the loch of that name, and from the adja- cent hills and marshes; and is, when flooded, a large stream. The Borgie runs from Loch Loyal in the parish of Tongue ; and is, in some parts of its course, the boundary line between this pa- rish and Tongue. But its salmon-fishings have been for a long time the property of the Noble family of Sutherland. It enters the Northern Ocean within a mile of the Naver, at a place in the pa- rish of Tongue called Torrisdale. Geology and Mineralogy. — The rocks and stones in this parish, of which immense quantities are to be seen in every direction, especially along the coast, appear to be chiefly coarse granite, gneiss, and sandstone. In Kirtomy on the sea-coast, there is an exten- sive deposit of old red sandstone, mixed with conglomerate. At Strathy, there is a large quarry of white sandstone, which takes dressing by the chissel ; and near it, a considerable extent of lime- stone, from which excellent lime is manufactured for the supply of the parishioners. The most of the rocks and precipices along the shore exhibit a great variety of veins and fissures which cut across the strata, and greatly derange and alter them. But in many places on the coast and in the interior, the strata are distinctly and regularly arranged : and in such cases the inclination and dip are not many degrees from perpendicular. The most striking and marked exception is at Strathy, in the free and limestone quarries, where the strata are horizontal. The soil along the coast, especially near the bays, is light and sandy ; on the banks of the Naver and Strathy it is composed of :sand, gravel, and moss ; and in the interior, at the base of the 70 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. hills) and near the different lochs, except Loch Naver, the soil is a deep moss. Zoology. — It is reported traditionally, that bears and wolves at one period existed in this parish. But this must have been when those extensive forests of fir grew in this country, the remains of which are still found deeply imbedded in moss, and are raised by the parishioners for roofing their houses, and other domestic pur- poses. The only species of animals which existed in comparatively modern times in the parish, but which have now disappeared, are goats. About forty years ago, they were numerous, and serviceable to the inhabitants ; but, by the introduction of the sheep-farming system, they have been entirely exterminated. The sheep-farmers rear the Cheviot or white-faced kind of sheep. The letters have a breed of small Highland cattle ; a few ponies of a similar description ; and sheep of the black-faced kind. On Bein Chlibrig, and the adjacent higher hills, there are con- siderable flocks of red deer. Hares and rabbits are found in the parish. Ptarmigan, black-cock, grouse, partridge, plover, and snipe, are numerous in the hills, moors, and inland glens. A great num- ber of aquatic fowl frequent the sea-coast and fresh-water lakes ; and the woods of Strathnaver are throngly tenanted by various classes of birds. The cuckoo, lapwing, and swallow pay their an- nual visits ; and, so far as they escape the vigilance of game- keepers and vermin-destroyers — foxes, otters, wild cats, eagles, hawks, ravens, and carrion-crows, are to be found. In the larger rivers and lakes, there is abundance of salmon ; and in the lesser lochs and streams, trout are found in considerable quantities. There is a rich supply of cod, ling, haddock, and her- ring, in their season, on the sea-coast. Turbot and mackerel have been taken occasionally, and lobster is caught for the London market. Botany — The herbage of this parish is of a mixed character, varying according to the elevation of its mountains, hills, valleys, and shore ground : and, on the ^hole, the parish affords an inte- resting field for the botanist. If there be few rare plants, there is a rich profusion of those already well known in this country. The mountains, hills, and moors are generally covered with the com- mon red heather, deer-hair, and a long tough grass, called Flying Bent. In the softer marshes, there are extensive plots of cotton- grass. With a trifling exception, all the trees in the parish are in- digenous. Of these, there is a considerable variety,— such as the hazel or nut-tree, alder, roan-tree or mountain-ash, willows, and FARR. 71 bircL The alder tree grows to a considerable size on the banks of the Naver and Loch Coir^na-feam; but the birch is the most abundant, and, on the banks of Loch Naver, the most flourishing wood in the parish. 11. — Civil History. The only printed accounts of the ancient state of the parish, so Ceu* as known to the writer of this article, are to be found in Sir Robert Gordon's History of the Earldom of Sutherland, and in Mr Robert Macka/s History of the House and Clan of Mackay, published in 1829. Any manuscript documents tending to throw light on the ancient state of the parish, which might have been in the possession of heritors, or wadsetters, formerly occupying lands within its bounds, are supposed to be now in the archives of the Duke of Sutherland, the proprietor of the whole parish. The most accurate geographical description of the boundaries and lo- calities of the parish is to be found in a map of the county, lately published by Mr Burnet, from a particular survey taken by order of the late Duke of Sutherland. Parochial Registers. — The only parochial registers extant are a book in which the minutes of the kirk-session are kept ; and ano- ther, in which births and marriages are recorded. The earliest entry in the first is in the year 1754; and in the second, in the year 1800. Antiquities. — The antiquities of the parish consist of the re- mains of several circular towers or dunns, built of large undrest stones without mortar ; a number of barrows or tumuli ; a few erect stones in the form of obelisks ; and the ruins of a castle built with mortar. The remains of the circular towers are in Strathnaver. The principal field of tumuli is about half a mile east from the parish church, close by the public road to Thurso. The finest erect stone is in the churchyard of Farr ; and the ruin of the castle is on a small peninsula about a mile and a half north of the parish church. The traditions connected with the more ancient relics are imperfect. It is reported, that the circular towers were built and occupied by an ancient race called, in Gaelic, Cruinnich^ from either of two Gaelic words, cruinn, round or circular; or cruinnachadh, a gathering. The tumuli indicate fields of battle, on which foreigners, especially Danes, and the native inhabitants, had bloody conflicts ; and the erect stones are said to point out the places where chieftains have been interred. This is very probable, from the circumstance of these stones being seen not far from the fields of tumuli ; as is the 72 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. case at Dalharrold in Strathnaver, and in the church-yard of Farr. The stone in the latter place has been evidently brought there either from a foreign country, or from some other part of this king- dom. It is very hard, but diflfers entirely in its appearance and quality from any of the rocks in this neighbourhood. It is about twelve feet long, more than five feet being above ground, and as many under it. There is a regular figure carved on the west front of it, evidently hieroglyphic. — The ancient castle is sup- posed to have been the residence of the Mackays of Farr pre- vious to their being created barons, and obtaining the title of Lord Reay. It is not known by whom it was built. * III. — Population. From the remains of antiquity mentioned under the former head, it is evident there must have been a considerable population, either occasionally resorting to this parish, or permanently residing with- in it, at a very remote period of the history of Scotland. About 400 years ago, the Mackays began to make themselves conspicu- * Connected with the antiquities of the parish, the writer may mention a few par- ticulars regarding a loch in Strathnaver, about six miles from the church,— to which superstition has ascribed wonderful healing virtues. The time at which this loeh came to be in repute with the sick cannot now be ascertained. It must, however, have been at a period of the history of this country when superstition had a firm hold of the minds of all classes of the community. The tradition as to the origin of its healing virtues is briefly as follows : A woman, cither from Ross-shire or Inver- ness-shire, came to the heights of Strathnavcr, ])retending to cure diseases by means of water into which she had previously thrown some pebbles, which she carried about with her. In her progress down the strath, towards the coast, a man in whose house she lodged wished to possess himself of the pebbles : but discovering his design, she es- caped, and he pursued. Finding, at the loch referred to, that she could not escape her pursuer any longer, she threw the pebbles into the loch, exclaiming in Gaelic, mo-nar, that is sliame, or my shame. From this exclamation the loch received the name which it still retains, " Loch-rno-nar,*' and the pebbles are supposed to have impart- ed to it its healing efficacy. There are only four days in the year, on which its supposed cures can be effected, llicse are the first Monday, old style, of February, May, August, and November. During February and November, no one visits it ; but in May and August, numbers from Sutherland, Caithness, Ross-shire, and even from Inverness-shire and Orkney, come to this far-famed loch. The ceremonies through which the patients have to go are the following : — lliey must all be at the loch side about twelve o'clock at night. As early on Monday as one or two o*clock in the morning, the patient is to plunge, or to be plunged, three times into the loch ; is to drink of its waters ; to throw a piece of coin into it as a kind of tribute ; and must be away from its banks, so as to be fairly out of sight of its water before the sun rises- else no cure is supposed to be effected. Whatever credit might I>e given to such ri- diculous ceremonies as tending in any respect to the restoration of health, while ig- norance and superstition reigned universally in this country, it certainly must appear extraordinary to intelligent persons, that any class of the community should now have recourse to and faith in such practices ; but so it is, that many come from the shires already mentioned, and say they arc benefited by these practices. It is, however, to be observed, that those who generally frequent this loch, and who have found their health improved, on returning home, are persons afflicted with nervous complaints and disordered imaginations, to whose health a journey of forty or sixty miles, a plunge into the loch, and the healthful air of our hills and glens may contribute all the im- provement with which they are generally so much pleased. 3 FARB. 73 ous in this en^r, from ten to thirt}* years of age, the greater numl^or do n^id either English or Gaelic ; many read both, and )i ^^^l?u^)orahlo number write, and can keep accounts. Even at iW oldo:i(l ago At which the people arrive, a considerable num- Wr ttn> found who read the Scriptures fluently, and with benefit. ^t it is among the aged that the greater number are met with who can neither read nor write. In 1832, it was computed that 870 persons of all ages above six were unable to read ; and 300 betwixt six and twenty. The people value the benefits of education, and would most willingly give their children greater advantages, did their circum- stances allow it. A permanent school at Armidale, with those already established, would supply the inhabitants of the sea-coast with the means of education. It is impossible to place a school in . the interior, so as to accommodate its scattered and widely sepa- rated inhabitants, consisting of a few families of shepherds. Savings Bank. — A savings bank was established this year for the benefitof the whole county;— of which the Duke of Sutherland is patron and treasurer ; James Loch, Esq. M. P. president ; and the three resident factors of the Duke of Sutherland in this shire, vice-presidents. There are trustees appointed in this parish, who meet every fortnight to receive deposits and give out money as oc- casion requires. The head bank is at Golspie, near Dunrobin, the seat of the Duke of Sutherland. All deposits are sent from this parish to it; for which the contributors have the receipt of the patron and treasurer, and are allowed four per cent, interest on sums FARR. 7^ not exceeding L. 20. Little can be said yet of the advantages of this bank, as the first deposit was made in this parish only on the 15th day of February last ; but considerable benefit b anticipated from it today-labourers, fishermen, and iarm-servants, in the course of a few years. The Duke of Sutherland is deeply interested in its prosperity. Poor and Parochial -FttnA.— The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 76; and the average sum allowed them is from Ids. to ds. per annum, according to their circumstances, as certified by the elders of their respective districts. The an- nual average amount of contributions for their support, during the last five years, has been about L. 27 Sterling, arising from church collections, amounting to L. 20 per annum, and from donations by heritors, amounting to L. 8 on an average of the last five years. No other method of procuring funds for the poor has been resorted to, and in general they seem content with the existing system. The Marchioness of Stafford, now Duchess Countess of Sutherland, for more than twenty years gave, and continues to give, an annual do- nation of L. 6 to the poor of this parish. Occasional donations have been given, besides, by members of the Noble family when visiting this parish, and when important changes by marriages and births took place among them ; and by such means, a small fund is at interest for the benefit of the poor. Market — There is a market held at Bettyhill, near this place, on the first Wednesday of November, (N. S.) for general traffic. hms. — There are three licensed inns, so situated as to be con- venient to the parishioners and the public at large. Tippling- houses are entirely suppressed, and their extinction has a good ef- fect on the morals of the people in general. ' Miscellaneous Observations. When the former Account was written, a considerable number of tacksmen, natives of the parish, occupied extensive farms in diffe- rent parts of it; and with them, a dense population of subtenants resided in the interior straths and glens. Now, however, all the lands, both hill and dale, which they possessed, are held in lease by a few sheep-farmers, all non-resident gentlemen, — some of them living in Caithness, some on the south coast of this county, and some in England ; and the straths, in which hundreds of families lived comfortably, are now tenanted by about twenty-four families of herds. In place of the scores of Highland cattle, horses, sheep, and goats, which formerly were brought to market, or used for do- 80 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. mcstic purposes, now thousands of fleeces of Cheviot wool, wedders, and ewes, are annually exported. The people who had been re- moved from the interior in 1818 and 1819, when these great changes took place, are thickly settled along the sea-coast of the parish, — in some instances about thirty letters occupying the land for- merly in the possession of twelve; and some of them placed on ground which had been formerly uncultivated. This alteration in the locality of the parishioners has been fol- lowed by a corresponding change in the general system of their occupation. Instead of tending flocks, and following other avoca- tions connected with the habits of an inland population, they are now partly employed in cultivating their small pendicles of land ; but more vigorously engaged, especially the young, in preparing the necessary fishing implements, and prosecuting the fishing in its season. The females, in place of manufacturing tartans, and other woollen cloths, for their husbands, brothers, and other rela- tives, now use the spinning wheel in preparing hemp for herring - nets ; and the labour of the country weaver is considerably set aside by the knitting of the nets. The Garb of Auld Gaul is en- tirely superseded by thefisheniian's habilments; and our population, who in early life traversed the hills, moors, and crags of the inte- rior, now cautiously steer their boats on the waves of the Northern Ocean, and actively carry on the various labours connected with the fish-curing, stations. The changes referred to in the locality and in the employments of the inhabitants have had their influence on the state of society in the parish. Although there are greater facilities of communication than formerly with different parts of the kingdom, the manners of the resident population are not thereby improved. It is a well authenticated fact in this country, that the herring, fishing is not conducive to the improvement of the morals of those engaged in it. The leaseholders of our large sheep-farms are, as was already mentioned, all non-resident gentlemen. But the former tacksmen resided on their own farms, most of them having respectable and numerous families. By their education and status in society, as justices of peace, and officers in the army, their example, in their general intercourse with the people, had an influence in giving a respectable tone to society, which is now almost gone. There is not now a resident justice of the peace in the parish, whereas there was formerly a most respectable bench of such civil magistrates; and the permanent population being composed of letters, day-labourers. PARR. 81 fishermen, and herds, the people, in general, are much more pie- bian, than when the former Account was written. On the other hand, the improvements by roads, bridges, more commodious inns, neater cottages, and more regular and sure means* of communica- tion, form a most interesting and pleasant variety since the' date of that Account An increase in the number of those who read the Scriptures in English and Gaelic, and a more extensive circula- tion of the sacred volume among the families of the parishioners, are also among the important changes which have since taken place. The openness of the winters, the absence of those heavy and long- continued storms of snow, which in former times were so destruc- tive to every description of stock, and the general mildness and fruitfiilness of the seasons, ought not to be omitted under this head. Since the harvest of 1816, there has not been an extensive failure in the ordinary crop of the parish. There is much room for improvement on the sea-coast, by a better system of husbandry among the letters, by rendering the landing-places for boats more commodious and secure, and by an increase of branch roads to some of the townships. It is much to be regretted that the inhabitants have not more permanent and regular employment during the winter and spring months; for by the want of such employment, a great portion of their time is wasted in idleness and dissipation ; whereas, they would most willingly avail themselves of any additional opportunities of labour. Auffust 1834. SUTHERLAND. PARISH OF DURNESS. PRESBYTERY OF TONGUE, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. WILLIAM HNDLATER, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name Durness, or, as it is pronounced by the na- tives, Duirinish, is evidently of Graelic origin. * By some it has been derived from Dorratn, t. e. storms or tempest, and nis or ness a promontory. Others derive the word from Dvbh^ black ; raon^ field ; and ness or hw, a promontory, — Dybh-^hir-nis. But as the word ntss or nis is seldom, if ever, used to signify a point or pro- montory in Gaelic, it may with greater probability be derived from Dnrin^ the principal township in the parish, and innisj a green l^tch or grazing, — literally an oasis in a desert Hence the word Shintnessy a green knoll near the Deer Forest in this parish, is de- ri>t>d from sithin^ venison, and innisj a grazing. Formerly the parish of Durness comprehended the whole of the district known by Lord Heaths Country^ or, as it is called in Gaelic, Duthaich Mhic Aoij i. e. The Land of the Mackays^ extending from the river of Borgie near Strathnaver, to the Kyle of Assynt, and comprehending a space of about 800 square miles ! Since 1724, it has been divided into three parishes, viz. Edderachillis, Durness, and Tongue : with the parish of Farr, it was disjoined from the presbytery of Caithness, and by Act of Assembly at- tached to the presbytery of Tongue. Boundaries. — It is bounded on the N. by the Northern Ocean; on the E. by the parish of Tongue ; on the S. and S. W. by Ed- derachillis; and on the W. by the Atlantic Ocean. Its greatest length from east to west is twenty-five miles, and its average breadth about twelve miles, — there being thus, including friths and lakes, about 300 square miles. Topographical Appearances. — The general aspect of this parish * Notwithstanding the frequent incursions of the Danes and other northern tribes, it is remarkable that they never succeeded in establishing themselves as separate co- lonies, or in giving names to the different places in the country, which, as every Gaelic scholar knows, are all, with hardly an exception, of Gaelic origin. DURNESS. 83 is mountainous; and its surface is naturally divided into three parts, viz. Isty the Parf district, or that which Ues betwixt the Atlantic and the Kyle of Durness, ^d, Durness, properly so called, including all between the Kyle of Durness and Loch Eriboll. Sd, West- moin, which extends from Loch Eriboll to the middle of the mo- rass below Loch Hope, commonly called the Moin. Mountain Ranges, — In the Parf division, comprehending a sur- face of from 60 to 80 square miles, there are several mountain- ranges from 1500 to near 2500 feet in height, from Screbhisbheinn on the north, to Fairemheall on the south. Fairbheinn has a conical shape, and appears isolated from these and the other ranges of Creigriabhach and Bendearg, which have a S. W. direction, gradually diminishing to the Western Ocean. In the second division, the mountains are, Ceannabinn, Meall- meadhonoch, Ben Spionnadh, * and Cranstackie, which take a S. W. direction, and the mountains of Foinnebheinn and Meallhorn, which take a S. E. direction. This division contains an area of about 80 square miles. The third, or Westmoin division, having a surface of about 100 square miles, contains several ranges of high and precipitous hills on the east side of Loch Eriboll, and clustered in various shapes and directions betwixt Strathmore and Strathbeg. In this division also is the lofty Ben Hope, 3150 feet above the level of the sea; it extends in a S. W. and S. direction along the narrow vale of Strathmore. The view of Ben Hope from the west has been al- ways admired by travellers, as perhaps the finest of its kind in the kingdom. The best view is at the inn of Cassildubh, near the upper end of Loch Hope. As there is no table-land, it rises with- in a few feet from the level of the sea, in abrupt and towering mag- nificence. The mind is filled with awe at the grandeur and sub- limity of the scene, and the eye is overcome with beholding the mountain as a whole, — except when occasionally relieved by viewing the trees of varied hue that diversify the scene, and adorn its base and its dark-blue terraces. Here is often seen the eagle soaring aloft ; and amidst its deep ravines, the red-deer and roe, pasturing in security, as if defying the stratagems of the hunter. Nor is the view from its summit less interesting. On a clear day, may be seen Lewis to the west, and the Orkney Islands to the north-east, as well as the principal mountains of Sutherland and Caithness, while * 2566 feet above the level of the sea by Mr Burnet's measurement. / 84 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. the numerous lakes through the country appear like specks, and its friths (when the view is not obstructed by adjacent hills) like rivers. Valleys. — In the Parf district, though there are several deep ravines, there are no valleys of any note. It consists chiefly of marshy loans and deep morasses several miles in extent, and inter- sected by the mountain-streams. A few green and fertile spots may be seen on its eastern shores. With the exception of the light-keepers at Cape Wrath, there are only four families, shep- herds, who reside in this extensive district. In the second district. Strath Dinard runs up the Kyle of Durness, and by the water of Dinard, to the south base of Fairemheall, and then takes a south- east direction along the side of Foinnebhinn, extending a distance of about fourteen miles. At the upper end of Loch Eriboll is Strath- beg, — a narrow but fertile vale of about two miles in length, and scarcely half a mile in breadth. The only other valley deserving notice is Strathmore, commencing at the north base of Ben Hope, and extending about six miles along the river. It is now inhabit- ed by one family ; whereas, formerly, it was inhabited by upwards of twenty, by no means affluent, but virtuous and contented. To the south, betwixt the mountains of Strathmore and Strathbeg, are GlengoUie and Corinessie, both celebrated by the muse of Rob Donn, as tlfe favourite haunts of the deer and the hunter. These contain almost the only remains of birch trees in the parish, which at one time diversified and beautified its straths and glens. It may be remarked, that, with the exception of those last mentioned, the straths are but a very few feet elevated above the level of the sea, and give an Alpine grandeur to the contiguous mountains. Caves. — Smo, ^c. — In a country so extensive and mountainous, and abounding in limestone, we may naturally expect to find caves, deep ravines, and fissures. Of these, Smo * is the most remark- able. It is about two miles east of the church, and may be ap- proached either by sea or by a pathway from the road. Directly above the cave, a beautiful waterfall arrests the eye. Descending from the road, about 100 yards to the shore, and crossing the water, after walking twehty yards, the traveller is suddenly ar- rested by the grandeur and magnificence of the cave, — whether he views the singular and massive construction of its Gothic- like and transverse arches, or its immense height and width; • In " DanielVK Coast Views," a front view of this cave may be seen. DURNESS. 85 for, in some places, it is about 100 feet wide, and as many in height. Here, also, the noise of the waterfall steals on the ear ; and when the voice is raised, an echo is distinctly heard. Near the entrance, its stratified rocks have several tufts of ivy mantling over them, which add to the interest of the scene. The dark perforation on the right hand of the arch 'has of late years been explored ; it was believed by several of the natives, upon tradi- tionary information, to be the abode of fairies^ and the spirits of the dark ! ♦ There are also several extensive caves at Tresgill, at the east side of the entrance of Loch Eriboll. Sir Walter Scott visited these in 1814, and they excited his admiration equally with that of Smo. They are approached only by sea. The grandest of these has a wa- terfall over its mouth. The deep and unknown extent of the fissure of Polaghloup, half a mile weet of the church, has been frequently ad- mired. The immense stocks or detached Gothic-like pillars at Ker- wic bay near Cape Wr^th, and at the Whiten Head, have been also much admired. Several other caves, fissures, and cascades, in the interior of the country, if found in parishes of less extent, would be deemed deserving of more detailed description. Coast, — That part of the coast which is bounded by the Atlan- tic and the Northern Ocean is bold and lofty. On both sides of Cape Wrath, of the Farout Head, and Whiten Head, the rocks are magnificent^ towering in most places from 200 to 700 feet of per- pendicular height. At Kervaic bay, the shore is low and sandy. At the bay of Balnakiel, there are several bills of sand, which fre- quently shift their places and forms, though generally covered with bent. Along the friths of Keoldale and Eriboll, the shores are generally precipitous and rugged, with intervening bays of sand or shingle. Islands. — These are, I. Garre&n, within 4 miles of Cape Wrath to the east, and 1 mile from the shore ; it is about 60 feet high, 100 yards long, and about the same breadth ; here thousands of * The following is a short account of this cavern, as given by a young gentleman, one of a party who entered it in August 1833. " After providing ourselves with a small boat and lights, and raising them over the arch, we found ourselves in a lake about thirty yards long, and nearly as broad ; we now lighted our candles, and ap- proached an arch in the rock, under which we could just pass by lying flat on the boat. This opened to another lake of equal length, but gradually dimuiishing in breadth. Having at the upper end left the boat, we walked over the rock about thirty paces in the same direction. The height of the roof is various, from twenty to sixty feet, and its sides and bases are almost covered with stalactites and stalag- mites, formed from the dropping roof of the cave, which is entirely composed of lime- stone. The temperature of a well at the upper end we found to be 48° Fahr." 86 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. different species of sea-fowl are reared. 2. Hoan^ 1 mile long, and \ mile broad; it lies near the entrance of Loch EriboU; is green and fertile, and supports four families. 3. Choaric, in Loch EriboU, about the same dimensions, and equally fertile. In both of the two latter islands, there are places of sepulture, which have been discontinued as such for upwards of a century. Tradition reports, that they were used for sepulture to prevent the depredation of wolves, which at one period infested the country. Meteorology. — Cape Wrath is the only place in the parish where observations have been recorded. ♦ After the autumnal equinox, and about two hours after sunset, the polar lights frequently ap- pear most splendid, and occasionally extend from the north or north-west like a belt over the whole horizon. On the 3d Sep- tember 1833, the horizon, from three to four p. m., presented a pe- culiar appearance, and that during sunshine, — as if tinged, though faintly, by the polar lights, rushing with great rapidity. . For some days after, the weather was dry and squally. When the Orkney Islands or the neighbouring mountains are clearly seen, either a storm, or the continuation of bad weather, is the certain conse- quence. When the sound of the breakers on the shore is heard distinctly, it indicates frost. The appearance of the swan is a precursor of snow. In a country so contiguous to the ocean, and so mountainous, it is to be expected that high winds and frequent showers should pre- vail ; but, from these very causes, snow does not last so long as in more southern latitudes. Though the climate, in general, be moist and variable, yet the atmosphere is purified by high and frequent winds ; and the inhabitants are in general healthy. Fevers, small- pox, &c. are seldom, if ever, spread by infection. In spring, how- ever, colds, inflammatory sore throats, and rheumatism, are not in- frequent. In summer and autumn, cases of dyspepsia and bowel- complaints among the lower orders are of common occurrence. These are supposed to arise from a sudden change of their diet, which in the summer consists of oatmeal, milk, &c. and after- wards, of potatoes. Hydrography. — The friths that intersect the parish are, 1^^, the Kyle of Durness^ which is about six miles long, and averages nearly one mile in breadth. Near its entrance on the west side of the * A monthly report is transmitted to the Board of the Lighthouse Commission- ers, of the ranges of the thermometer, barometer, and rain-gage. DURNESS. 87 bay of Balnakiel, are bars and shallows, which frequently shift their position with north winds. This frith is little visited by ves- sels, either for shelter or commerce. At ebb, it appears a large field of sand, which is gradually accumulating from the debris of the Dinard and tributary streams. On its banks, may be frequently seen considerable numbers of seals (PhaccB vitulifUB^) and diffe- rent species of shell-fish. 2i2, Loch EriboUy which is about ten miles long, with a south-west direction, and varying from one to four miles in breadth. Its waters are of a depth varying' from fifteen to sixty fathoms; and no perceptible current is felt, while its saltness does not materially differ from that of the ocean. Camisendunbay, near the ferry, is one of the best anchorages in the kingdom, and is pretty often resorted to by vessels unable to double Cape Wrath, or attempt the Pentland Frith. The tides off Cape Wrath, Farout, and Whiten Head aiO0 very strong — running about ten miles an hour. Springs, — As might be anticipated in such a mountainous country, and where such quantities of rain fall, the springs are in- numerable. There are several chalybeates ; and those which give a reddish colouring to the gravelly banks are reckoned salubrious by the natives. Lakes are also abundant, varying from a few hundred yards to six miles in extent. Of these. Loch Hope is the largest, being six miles long, by one half mile broad. Its mean depth does not exceed six fathoms. Its upper end is gradually filling up by the alluvial deposits of Strathmore water ; and its banks occasionally diversified by a few tufts of birch. Loch Borley and Loch Craspul^ near the manse, are beautiful lakes ; both of which are supplied by subterraneous streams through the limestone rocks in the neighbourhood. The former is one mile long, and has a small green isle 200 yards long. It abounds in char^ which spawn in October, and are seldom or ever caught by the fly. Loch Craspul is half a mile long, and abounds with excellent trout, which do not spawn till January. There are se- veral other lakes around the above and in the interior, — all abound- ing in trout, which appear reddish, dark, or silvery, according to the clearness of the water. Among these, the largest are Dinardy the source of the river Kescaig^ and Ishour in the Parf or western division. Marl has been found at Loch Borley^ but has not been applied to any extent for the purpose of manure. Rivers* — The only rivers deserving notice are the Hope and the Dinard, The former is merely a continuation of the Strathmore Water, which has its source from GlengoUie and the contiguous 88 8UTHERLANDSHIRE. mountains, and empties itself about three miles from the mouth of Loch EriboUy — running a distance of fifteen miles. The latter has its rise from Loch Dinard, and empties itself at the head of the Kyle of Durness, — running a distance of ten miles. Both these rivers are very rapid, especially when swelled by their tributary streams. In both, the cruives are shut in March ; but very few salmon are found till summer, owing, it is supposed, to the coldness of the snow water descending from the higher mountain streams. Salmon are, also in small quantities, found to ascend the Sandwood water from the Atlantic, Dal water from Balnakiel Bay, and Strathbeg water, at the head of Loch Eriboll. All these are tolerably good ang- ling rivers, especially for trout, during the months of May and June. During heavy rains, the mountain streams present to the eye some fine cascades, the most noted of which are at Altnacailish in Strathmore, and at Benspionnadh on the north-west side. Geology. — There are few parishes in Scotland that furnish such a rich field to the speculations of the geologist — both from its ex- tent and the variety of its formations. These have been examined by Professor Jameson, Professor Sedgwick, and Dr M'CuUoch. Following the geographical divisions of the parish we find the high and precipitous rocks on either side of Cape Wrath, chiefly sand- stone and gneiss, with numerous veins of granite and felspar. The central mountain of Fasbheinn is gneiss ; but all the other moun- tains are chiefly of the red sandstone formation, and puddingstone, —the strata of which are horizontal. At Handa Island, and Store in Assynt, the same formation of sandstone appears. In the second or Durness division, the mountains are all com- posed of quartz, gneiss, and mica-slate, with occasional veins of por- phyry and granite. The dip of the strata is chiefly north-east. The higher mountains present their steeper and bolder fronts to the west and north-west,— with the exception only of the Farout Head, composed of dark gray slate. The greater part of the low lands of Durness from the Kyle to Smo, consists of an im- mense triangular bed of primitive limestone, of about fifteen square miles, and of unknown depth. It is of difierent colours— gray, blue, and pale white. These often alternate with each other, and are of various depths, often horizontal, but generally inclining to the north and east The fissures almost always cut the strata at right angles, and frequently consist of thin veins of carbonate of lime, pure, white, and crystallized. This bed at its southern angle dis- appears under the Foinnebhinn and Meall Horn Mountains, and DUBNESS. 89 is seen minutely in the adjoining parish of Edderachillis at Loch- more and Glencul, and to an extent of several miles in the parish of Assynt, where it appears under the same general character and of the same formation. In the third or Westmoin district, a section of this bed also ap- pears, to the extent of about five miles in length by half a mile in average breadth. It is separated from Durness by Loch Eriboll, the quartz mountain range of Ceannabinn, and Benspionadh. The mountains of Hope and Strathmore are quartz and gray slate, either horizontally stratified, or with a small inclination to the east and north. The limestone caves present fine specimens of stalac- tites and stalagmites, and some of the lakes in the limestone for- mation abound in marl. Immense circular blocks of granite are frequently resting upon the limestone rocks : * and pieces of por^ phyry have been discovered near Bispond, which are easily cut into seals. Soil. — Over the limestone, the soil is chiefly clay, of various depth, and yielding rich pasturage. The alluvial deposits carried down by the mountain streams make the straths equally fertile. But with these exceptions, the whole soil of the parish is a con- tinuous surface of peat moss, varying from a few inches to twelve feet in depth, — below which there are deep strata of clay or gravel. Zoology, — The high mountains in the interior, commonly called the " Forest" — (a leafless one !) abound in red-deer {Cervus ele- phas.) The roe {Cervus capreolus) is occasionally seen at Ben Hope. Foxes (Canis vulpes^) notwithstanding the high premiums given, are numerous and difficult to extirpate. Badgers {Ursus meles) are almost extinct Wild cats {Felis catusferus) are pret- ty numerous. Otters (Mustela Intra) are found in the rivers. Hares common (Lepus timidus^) and alpine {L. variabilis^) are seen, the latter more numerous ; also rabbits {L. cuniculus;) pole- cats, ferrets, and weasels (MustelcB^) Moles (Talpa Europea) are rare, and only found in one district of the parish, on the eastern bank of Loch Hope. Rats {M, raitus) are of late immigration. Birds. — Among the land fowls, the following are the principal : Hawks {Falco) of difierent kinds. Owls, both gray and brown, with ears resembling horns. The Royal (Julvus^) and fishing (Aa- licetuSf) eagle. A colony of rooks (C. frugilegiLs) may be seen in September for a few weeks, and almost all the small birds common * From one of these oo the glebe, the monument erected in the church -yard to the memory of Rob. Donn, was formed. 90 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. to the latitude; sucb as the starling (Stumtis^) thrush {Turdus^) wagtail {MotcudUa alba,) lark (Alatidaarvensis,) green linnet (Loxia Moris,) swallow {Hirundo,) blackbird thrush, {T, merula,) cuckoo {Cuculus canorus,) kingsfisher {Alcedo ispida,) wild pigeon {Co- lumba JEnas,) black-cock {Tetrao tetrix,) ptarmigan (T. lagopiis,) moorfowl (Tl Scoticus,) partridge (T.perdix,) plover (CAarocfni^,) &C. Among the water-fowls are gulls (Larus ridihundus, and L, marinus ;) wild goose {Anser,) swan (A.cyffnus,) duck (A.boschas,) teal {A, crecca,) solan-goose (Pelecanus Bassanus,) puiBn (Aka arctica,) auk {A, tor da,) and great auk {A, impennis,) crane {Grus.) Fishes. — Skate {Raice,) piked dog-fish (S. acanthius,) eel {Mu- rena anguilla,) conger, or sea eel, (M. conger,) cod {G.morrhua,) haddock (G. JEgleJimis,) coal-fish (G. carbonaritis,) whiting (G. merlangus,) ling (G. molva,) mackarel (Scomber,) turbot (Pleuro- nectes hippoglossus,) sole (P.solea,) flounder (P.Jlesus et punctatus,) salmon (Salmo,) trout (S. trutta etfario,) char (S. alpinus.) The shell-fish are: — Oysters (O. edulis,) cockles (C edule,) mussels (M. edulis,) &c. ; univalves of different kinds, as well as lobsters and crabs, are very numerous. The sands of Balnakiel present beautiful specimens of conchology. Reptiles, Sfc. — Among the reptiles are : the viper {Coluber berus,) adder {Anguis eryx,) lizards (Lacerta,) frogs (Bona,) toads {Bujb.) Among the various species of insects and flies, the most peculiar and numerous are gnats, provincially called midges; these are so annoying during the months of August and September in calm warm and moist weather, that they interrupt all labour without doors. jBotowy.*— The vegetation of this parish is materially affected by its latitude, the vicinity of the sea, its position towards the wes- tern shore, its diversity of surface, and its soil. On the northern confines of Britain, the ordinary law by which the geographical distribution of plants in regard of latitude is regulated, brings to very moderate elevations plants which, in the southern parts of the Grampians, are found only on the ridges, and which are not pro- duced at all in the south of Scotland, for want of a sufficient ele- vation to give the Alpine climate. In the parish of Durness, how- ever, the descent of Alpine vegetation is greatly increased by its * This article was kindly communicated by Dr Graham, Professor of Botany in the University of Edinburgh. 3 DURNESS. 91 western position. Several plants which, to the eastward in the same latitude, grow upon the sides of the mountains, grow here on the beach. On the top of the cliff overhanging the sea at Cape Wrath, we have Salix herbacea and Silene acatdis; and near Ke<^dale we have JTutKctrum alpinum^ close to the high water mark* Even a very few miles off, these plants have disappeared from the shore, and are met with only on the mountains, at a height increasing as we proceed eastward. On the other hand, the neighbourhood of the sea secures that mild temperature during winter, which enables less hardy plants to thrive ; or otherwise fits the fields of Durness for the growth of species which require a maritime climate. This is true with respect to many plants which appear 'in the pastures. The Primula Scotica abounds here, and in many places near the north shore of Scotland, but it has not been observed anywhere upon the mountains either to the eastward or southward. The soil in the parish is various ; but perhaps the only kind which, apart from the degree of moisture, seems to exert a sen- sible influence ih modifying the natural productions, is that form- ed over limestone, which abounds in the inunediate vicinity of the manse, and crops out in many places. It is no doubt on account of this that Dryas octopetala is so profuse in Durness. To the eastward and in the south, it is met with on the moun- tains, and on various rocks, but here it seems confined to the lime- stone, and is most abundant at the level of the sea. Equally cir- cumscribed, and on the same rock, is Epipactis latifolia^ and per- haps Draba incana extends no farther. Centaurea scabiosa is abun- dant in the fields around, and very seldom with white flowers. All these, except the last, are likewise found on limestone inAssynt, but rarely, if at all, in the intervening district, where limestone does not exist. A great part of the flat land towards Cape Wrath is bog, wholly different from the close fine turf which forms the sur- face near the manse. It produces in abundance the ordinary coarse herbage which is found to cover wet ground throughout the coun- try, as the various common species of Juncus^ Carex and Eriopho^ runiy while on the neighbouring drier banks we have Nardus stric- ta^ and the other grasses which generally grow along with it. These form very productive sheep pasture, and support a very excellent stock. In the bogs, there is abundance of Pinguicula Lusitanicay and of Drosera Anglica. Upon the shores of Sandwood and of 02 St'THEELAHDSHIRE. Uurndtf»i we Imve a protwnon of Gentiana amarella and Thalictrum minus, Elyrnui arenarius and Juneus BaUiciu are met with in both |)ltteeS| the latter particularly abundant to the north of the house of Keoldalo. The mountain tops are generally dry and stony, and nothing has hitherto boen observed upon them but such Alpine plants as are found on many other mountain ranges in Scotland, except Luzvla «iiVMii/ii« Analm procumbens and Arbutus alpina abound chiefly on tht> U)W Mhouldara. Luzula arcuaia has been found only in three tiUtiivi^n ill liritain, the summit of the mountains at the source of \\w IHhh Ken More in Assynt, and Foinnbheinn in this parish; Hud nUuvg \^'ilh it, on the two last mountains, Aparffia alpina. {\\ KvaunUht^iuu theiv i:^ great abundance of Arabis pstrcecu It is Hium^^' th^ u)ouutaiu3^ in this and the adjoining parishes, forming tho lUH'th^^^'il of Scotland, that botanists expect to discover several K^ thi> yi^nU iH>iumon to the north of Europe and America, but which have not vet been added to the British Flora. With the exception of a few acres of Birch copse on the banks of Uooh Hope, and a few birch, poplar, and holly trees in the clefts of rocks and glens, the parish maybe said to be quite destitute of wood. In low and sheltered situations, however, the mosses retain tlie roots of fir, birch, willow, &c, and decayed trunks of from thirty to fifty feet in length are occasionally dug from the mosses. In sheltered situations, and where the soil is open and dry, there is little doubt but forest and fruit trees might grow, from the few specimens tried at Eriboll. Culinary vegetables thrive well. Notwithstanding the great quantities of rain in harvest, the crops are ripe, and secured at least three weeks earlier than in the neighbouring county of Caithness, — which may be occasioned by the difierence of soil, as well as the shelter, and the radiation of heat from the adjacent rocks and vallies. With the exception of six acres of winter sown wheat, tried for the first time at Balnakiel, the whole of the crops were cut and secured before the 2dd September 1833. II. — Civil History. It cannot be expected, that the annals of a parish so remote and so thinly inhabited, should at any time have excited much pub- lic interest Some accounts of the local conflicts of the clans Mac- kay, Gordon, and Sutherland, may be seen in Sir Robert Gordon's History of the Sutherland family, and Mackay's History of the Mackays. — A correct survey was taken of the coast in 1827 by or- DT7RNBSS. 93 der of the Commissioners for the Northern Lights : and a map of the parish on a large scale, by Mr Burnet, land-surveyor, is preparing for publication, under the patronage of the Duke of Sutherland, who is now sole proprietor. Eminent Men. — Among the most eminent characters who were natives of this parish are the following : — 1^ General Mackay, who distinguished himself in the civil wars in the reign of King Charles IL His father, who was a branch of the Reay family, resided for some titne in Borley, but afterwards had his prin- cipal residence at Scowrie, in Edderachillis. 2if, Robert Donn or Calder, or, as he is sometimes called, Mackay, the celebrat- ed Reay country bard, was also a native of the parish. His lyrics, satires, and songs, are much admired and sung by the na- tives, and have rendered our mountains and glens classic ground. A volume of these was published in 1829 by Dr Mackay of Dunoon ; to which is prefixed a memoir of his life. Parochial Register. — The earliest date of the parochial register is 4th November 1764. It does not contain any register of deaths. Antiquities. — Among these, the first that claim attention are the circular Duns, which appear to have been very numerous in the Highlands. The ruins of ten of these Duns are to be seen in this parish. They appear to have been the residences of some native chieftain ; they are often built in low and fer- tile spots, and, in some places, they are surrounded by seve- ral circles of from 12 to 20 feet diameter, which in all pro- bability have been the foundations of the circular booths of the chieftain's dependents. The form of these Duns is the simplest mode of structure that would occur to a rude people. There is a tradition among the natives, that they were built to defend the inmates from the incursions of the wolves. The only remains from which we can judge of the form and structure of these Duns are — a segment of one in Strathmore, about sixteen feet high, near the south base of Ben Hope. It is called " ZWn DomigilU** t. e. Domadilla's Tower. The tradition is, that it was built by the Scottish king of that name, and used as a hunting residence. The outer circumference is about fifty paces in extent, and consists of two concentric walls, connected by large flags, which served the pur- pose of strengthening each other, and forming a pathway to the top. The triangular stone which forms the lintel is still seen in the building. The slaty stones of which it is built, bear no marks of 94 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. having been shaped by tools, the acute angle being always upper- most.* There are also some subterraneous buildings, called ^^ Leabidh fholaichj^ 1. e. hiding-places : one of these, lately discovered at the west side of Loch EriboU Ferry, is about 40 feet long, 6 feet high, and about 6 feet wide, built of dry stone, and covered over by flags ; the descent is by regular steps, and the entrance is co- vered by a flag. It is still in good preservation. — There are seve- ral large stones placed on end, either in a circular or elliptical form, which appear to have been places of sepulture ; but no traces of writing have been seen on any of these. — Tumuli, and heaps of stones, called " cairns," are of frequent occurrence. In one of these, called ^^ Cnoc na cncimham^^ t. e. the hill of bones, near Keoldale, a small brass elliptical cockade was found two years ago, and a small polished bone, supposed to be used for fastening the military plaid. The tradition is, that it contains the remains of those who fell in battle. — Heads of arrows are occasionally found in the mosses ; they are from two to thr4e inches long, formed of a brown, red, or whitish flint-like stone, f Buildings. — There is a pretty large mansion-house at Balnakiel, where some of the Lords of Reay occasionally resided. It was built about ninety years ago. Another building of importance is the Light-house at Cape Wrath, the tower of which is fifty feet high. The building is altogether 350 feet above the level of the sea. It was built in 1827 of granite found at the Cape. Previ- ous to its erection, seldom a winter passed without one or more wrecks; but these are now of rare occurrence. At Rispond there is a good dwelling-house, and a pretty extensive range of houses and sheds for the salmon-boiling and herring-fishing. There is also a pier for sloops of ordinary size to load their cargoes. — The houses of the tacksmen merit no particular notice. Those of the small tenants and cottars are all built of turf or dry stone, plaster- ed on the inside with clay, with the exception of two or three in some hamlets whose western gable has a vent and chimney-stalk. * Se« Antiquities and Scenery in Scotland by Rev. Charles Cordiner of Banff, and Agricultural Survey of the County of Sutherland, 1806, Appendix. f The noted Donald M* Leod, a/ta« Mac Mhorchie-ic-eoin-mhoir, who was the Rob Hoy of the North, always carried his bow and arrows, either to the field or the forest. He died in 1623. His figure, represented in relief on the gravestone over his vault in the church of Durness, exhibits him with his bow and arrow. A draw- ing of this vault, and the gravestone and inscription, was lately executed by order of the Duke of Sutherland. — For further particulars of the history and character of this freebooter, see former Statistical Account of the Parish of Edderachillis, and Mac- kay's History of the Mackays. DURNESS. 95 Several neat eottages, howeyer^ boilt with lime or clay, are com- menced in those hamlets where the lots are divided. IIL — Population. By a census taken in 1724, the population did not exceed 1000 souls. In 1790 the population was 1182. In the Durness, or second district of the parish, there has been an increase of nearly 50 per cent since 1815 ; but in the third or eastern district, Eriboll, the population has diminished since 1815 from 517 to 220. The decrease has been owing to the whole district having been con- verted into two extensive sheep-farms. The increase in the Dur- ness, or second division, has been owing to the establishment of the herring fishery, and the subdivision of lots in the different ham- lets. In 1815 from thirty to forty fEunilies emigrated to America. Population in 1801, - 1206 1811, - 1155 1821, - 1004 1831, . 1153 The average of marriages, for Uie last 7 years, is - - . 8 of baptisms, .... S9^ Total number of persons 1st January 1834, - - - 1180 Of these, there are under 15 years of age, - 448 from 15 to 30, - - . 343 from 30 to 50, - - - 185 from 50 to 70, - - 164 above 70, ... 40 - UflO Number of bachelors and widowers above 50, - - - 13 Unmarried women above 50, (excluding widows,) - - 44 Average number of children in each family, . . . 3^ Number of families in the parish, .... 206 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - - 123 in trade, manufactiu'cs, or handicraft, 13 Insane persons, ... . - 2 Fatuous, .... - - 10 Blind, .... . . 4 Deaf and dumb, ... . - 3 Clans. — The principal clans in the parish are, those of M'Kay, Sutherland, Campbell, Morrison, and Gunn ; the two former ge- nerally distinguished by fair hair and blue eyes, — the Campbells and Gunns, by dark eyes and dark complexion. Character^ Sfc, of the People. — The natives are generally live- ly in their dispositions, social in their habits, and when engag- ed in labour, either at sea or on land, endure a good deal of fatigue. There are few artisans among them : and, having little or nothing to do in the winter months, many of them are in the habit of vi- siting and spending the evenings in each other's houses in the dif- ferent hamlets, hearing the news of the country, repeating the songs of their native bard, or listening to the legendary tales of some venerable Senachie, 96 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. With the exception of eight families from the south of Scotland, all the natives speak Gaelic Though a considerable proportion * of the young can speak English, yet very few are able to follow out or understand an English sermon. Indeed, even those who speak and understand the English well, always prefer the Gaelic ser- vices. Whether this predilection arises from early associations, the influence of habit, or the greater ease, familiarity, and simpli- city in the style of the speakers, they think themselves more edi- fied by discourses in that tongue. It cannot be said, however, that the Gaelic language is spoken with such emphasisr and purity in this country as in some parts of the western Highlands; and, though it has been *a good deal corrupted by the younger people who now speak English, it has not lost much ground. The principle amusements are — playing at the ball and shinty on the fine sands of Balnakiel. The whole population turns out on old Christmas and new-year's day, and even old men of seventy are to be seen mingling in the crowd, remaining till night puts an end to the contest Indeed, the inhabitants of this parish have always been noted for the enthusiasm with which they engaged in these sports. To koop up the tone of action, they retire in the evening, and uiin^lo iu tlie dance to the music of the bagpipe, regardless of the hniij*o>* ami scars of the contest. Of this sport, Dr M'Leod of ( ^uupnio luiH ^ivon a very humorous and graphical description in \\U *• 7K4iA« S\»jH^iNtitious observances, belief in witches, and other en- v^luumuouls »uv f^mduully wearing away, — though even a grave el- ^Um' »uh> oiHHtHioimUy bo met witli, who will quote scripture, and re- lutt) many traditionary stories, as evidences of his faith. A»i to tlio habits of the people, — it cannot be said that they are ranmrkable for cleanliness: the huts they occupy, — the smoke arising from the fire in the centre of the house, and forming a ca- nopy over them, — and the cattle entering by the same door with the inmates, — are not favourable to personal cleanliness. The change of dress within the last twenty or thirty years has been very marked, both with males and females. Instead of the tartan or kelt coat and trowsers, spun and dyed at home, when each family had their own wool, hardly any thing is to be seen on the young but the fustian jacket and trowsers, or the lighter tartan of the shops, and here and there the blue and fancy cloths of Leeds. The blue DURNESS. 97 mantle and the well-spun blue gown of the fair sex is superseded by the prints and Merinos of modem times. The head is in many cases adorned or covered by a gauze or muslin cap, and now ana then by a straw-bonnet. Umbrellas are more numerous tharf great- coats or mantles. It is questionable whether, with these changes, the morals or comforts of the people have been improved. It could not be expected that a people who had led chiefly a pas- toral life were to be soon reconciled to the change which placed them in crowded hamlets upon the shore. The manufacture of kelp^ herring-fishing, road -making, and other occasional sources of in^ dustry during the summer and harvest, have, however, called out the latent industry of the young; but, as there has been, of late years, no encouragement to enter the army, and as they have no opportunities of learning trades at home, they are tempted to maiv ry too young; they then reside for some years with their parents, and divide the lot of two or three acres, chiefly reclaimed from moor, at the very time it promised to support the family with bread and potatoes. Thus, the wants of a new and rising family are to be pro-> vided for, and poverty and a high rate of population are kept up. The habits of dram-drinking, acquired by both sexes in their an- nual migrations to Caithness, and in the course of their mixing to- gether in crowded lodgings there, have tended to deteriorate the mo- rals of the people considerably. Their attendance on religious ordi- nances, however, is pretty regular ; and in most cases, the evening and morning devotions of the family are offered up. On the Sabbath evenings, the Shorter Catechism is taught ; or they congregate to- gether in some commodious house in the township, to repeat the Shorter Catechism and read the Scriptures. These meetings are always commenced and concluded by prayer and praise, and often tend to spread a moral and religious influence over the hamlet Smuggling, foreign and domestic, is now totally suppressed. IV. — Industry. Agriculturt and Rural Economy. — The whole of this parish, (with the exception of about one«twentieth part,) has been converted into four extensive sheep-walks, yielding on an average L. 500 each of rent. From the irregular surface, and small patches in cultivation, it is impossible, without measurement, to ascertain the exact number of acres. The following is an approximation :-^ SUTHERLAND. G 98 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. Imperial acres. 1. Balnakiel farm and herds, .... 100 2. Keoldale, do. ----- GO 3. EriboU do. and subtenants, - - 80 4. Ben Hope do. for herds, ... 6 Glebe, 12 120 small tenants and cottars, with 2 acres each, on an average, 240 Total, 498 Along the shores, straths, and glens under sheep, a considerable proportion of the land is arable, — ^perhaps about 300 acres. Of good pasture capable of being brought into cultivation by spade husbandry, there are 1000 acres at least The amount might be made equal to what is already in cultivation by the tenants and cot- tars, and capable of supporting three times the present popula- tion, — even though the whole of the mountain pasture and some of the straths and shores should be left under sheep. Rent ofljond. — The average rent of arable land per acre is from 20s. to dOs.; but to all arable land there is attached a right of pas- ture on a conunon hill. The estimated value of grazing for sheep or wedders is about 2s. 6d. each on the great sheep-farms. Cows are pastured on rich meadows at L.d per annum. Including stock farms, kelp, and salmon fishery, the rental of the parish is about L. 2550. Wages. — Day labourers receive Is. 6d. per day; artisans, from 2s. to 3s.; farm-servants L. 6 per annum, 7 bolls meal, and 20 barrels potatoes, and one cow's grass ; farm or domestic female servants, L. 3 per annum and board. Breeds of Lwe-Stock. — The only breed of sheep is the Cheviot or white-faced, with the exception of about 300 cross or black- faced, kept by small tenants and cottars on the common grazing. To the improvement of the former very great attention is paid — botli wool and carcase fetching average prices at market. The principal breed of black-cattle is the Highland, reared by small te- nants. TIio few milch cows on the sheep-walks are chiefly Ayr- shire. With the exception of six pair of Clydesdale horses kept for husbandry by the sheep-farmers, all the rest of the horses are small Highland ponies. Ilmhandry. — Several acres of waste or marshy land have been druinod at Balnakiel, but are laid out in pasture. The old nuxli^ of reclaiming waste land was by making Ictzy beds^ u e. by ])0<*ling one part of the ground and laying it over another of equal Hpac(\ Trenching was never used, but a better and more econo- DURNESS. 99 mical system is now employed. The runrig system is wearing out, and every township is in the course of being lotted out in regu- lar divisions, and cottages are building on each lot. " Though the expense and labour of building these be great to the small tenants, especially in a country where masons and carpenters must be brought from other places, yet they submit to the charge, though no leases are given, and have every confidence, that, under the li- beral and enlightened management of the family of Sutherland, they will be furnished with new sources of industry. The sheep-farmers have leases of nineteen years; and all of them have lately made considerable improvements in diking and surface draining. Fisheries, — Herring, — The principal fisheries are the herring, salmon, and lobster. The early herring fishing commences in June. At this season, the fish are so rich that it is difficult to cure them, and they are sent oflF weekly to market. The late fishing commences about the middle of July and continues till September. It was only of late that the out sea fishing commenced on this coast. And even yet, it hardly remunerates those engaged in it. A smaller but superior species of herring is found occasionally in Loch Eriboll ; but it is chiefly used for home consumption. Ten boats are employed at Rispond : they are each manned by four men and a boy, and cost each L. 36. Lobster Fishing, — The lobster fishing commences in May and is carried on with little intermission till August. Six boats of fourteen feet keel were employed last season, each boat having two men, and being furnished with twenty or more nets inclosed in circular iron cylindrical hoops or rings of two and a-half feet diameter ; a piece of herring or gray fish being tied in the centre of the mesh for bait. The nets are cast into the sea within a few yards of the shore by one of the men, while the other rows for- ward ; and they are raised in about an hour after. This is conti- nued from sunset to sunrise. When a lobster is cauglTt, the large claws are fastened together by a strong packing thread, — otherwise, by the muscular strength of their claws, they would soon destroy each other. When thus secured, they are conveyed in the morn- ing to the perforated floating chest, until they are called for week- ly by the welled smacks. Cod and Ling Fishing, — Cod and ling, though abundant on the coast, have not been much fished by the natives. Salmon Fishing. — The only rivers in which salmon are caught 100 SUTHEBLAND8HIRE. are the Hope and Dinard ; on both of these there are cruives and coble fishing- The fishuig commences in the end of March and ceases in August The spawning months are October and Novem- ber. The following table shows the weight of salmon and grilse caught during the last two years. lbs. Salmon. lU. GrilM. Riven. 1832, 624 1946 > . jji^^^^ 1883, 181 887} 1882, 1488 4650 i . Hope. 1^ 2166 7895 f "*^- Several of the larger bums or streams have salmon but, from their distance and the diflSculty of access, fishing in these would not remunerate the expense. * Produce. — The following is the average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, viz. 900bolLiofgrainofallkindi,atl88. - - - L.800 20 acres turnip at L. 5, iSX n S 1000 bolls potatoes at 8s., - - - - 222 n n 1 1000 stones hay, cultivated and meadow, ... a7U U U Cattle sold by small tenants, - - - 100 Sheep sold by stock Ikrmers, being the average for the last six years, viz. 1830 ewes at lis., - - - L. 1006 2000weddersatL. 1, - - - 2000 8210 stones wool, at ISs., - - - 2407 5418 500 barrels herring atL.1, - -- - - 50000 fi842 lobsters at dd., 73 2346 lbs. salmon at 5d., - - r L. 47 8782 lbs grilse at 4d., - - - 146 193 40 tons kelp at L. 3, - - - - 120 MiaoolUmeous produce, - - - - 27 L.8000 N. B. — It must be observed, that meal is imported to the pa- rish to the average amount of 300 bolls annually. Kelp manttfacture, — The only manufacture worthy of notice is the kelp. It commences in June, and in favourable seasons is fi- nished early in July. It is cut every alternate year, spread out on the shores, and when nearly dried is put up in heaps and burnt in ^* It is the universal belief of the oldest and most experienced fishermen acquainted with different waters, that salmon never deposit their spawn except in rivers ; that they universally and instinctively frequent the rivers on which they were spawned ; that, however numerous the fish in traversing the shores, and when entering the es- tuary or frith, each turns to that direction where the river in which it was spawned empties itself. Where a stranger can hardly discern any difference, a practued eye will single out the fish of different rivers from each other, and view them almost as varieties of the same species. It is true, that large shoals of salmon belonging to different rivers, on their return from the ocean, often congregate at estuaries, and are cauglit in the net ; but the stranger fish, on tasting the water, and entering fiiirly into the channel of the river, soon returns, not finding the velocity, temperature, co- lour, or taste of the water congenial to its habits. DUBNESS. 101 long narrow kilns of loose stones of 2 feet wide, and 13 or 16 feet long ; when thoroughly melted and well-wrought» it is, after cool- ing, broken up to heaps, and covered with turf till it is shi|^ped« Navigation. — There are three small sloops at Rispond, of the respective tonnage of 25, 37, and 51. These are managed by ten men, and are principally employed in the coasting trade. One of them goes occasionally to Hamburgh with early herrings. V. — Parochial Economt. Means of Communication. — Thurso is the nearest market-town, 65 miles distant There are no villages, the population all resid- ing in hamlets along the shores, containing from 4 or 5 to 20 fami- lies. The means of communication have been much improved dur- ing the last three years, by the liberality of the late Duke of Suther- land. Formerly, the post-office was at Bonar Bridge, a distance of 62 miles, to which there was a runner sent once a-week at the sole expense of a few subscribers. There is now a post-office twice a-week to Tongue. The days of dispatch are Monday and Thursday ; of arrival, Tuesday and Friday, — to suit the Golspie mail, which crosses the interior to Tongue every Monday and Thursday. There is a weekly runner to Scowrie. There is also a monthly carrier to Tain ; but almost all imports and exports are by sea. The roads are, Ist, a road from the Kyle of Durness to Cape Wrath, executed by the Light-house Commissioners in 1828, 11 miles in length ; 2^ from Eriboll by Strathmore, till its junction with the Tongue road to the south, 19 miles; 3J, the main line leading from west to east, — 34 miles round by Loch Eriboll, or, by crossing the ferry, 24 miles. With the exception of 12 miles, commenced ten years ago by statute-labour, these roads were com- pleted by the late Duke of Sutherland, and have completely open- ed up the country to new sources of industry, and the gratification of the traveller, and the speculations of the capitalist There is an excellent bridge over the Dinard, and a chain-boat over the Hope. The harbours are, Loch Eriboll, Rispond, and Port Our, at the termination of the Cape Wrath road, and Smo ; the last only for boats.. At Rispond, there is a basin and pier, and rings fasten- ed to the rocks in the bay ; but this is not reckoned very safe in north-east gales and spring, tides. Loch Eriboll, in the bay, where there is a church, is reckoned a very safe anchorage. A slip for boats has been also made at Clashcamach, three miles east of 102 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. the cape, where the light-house yacht lands the oil and necessa- ries for the light-house ; but is seldom attempted in^ stormy wea- ther with northerly winds. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated within half a mile of the manse, at Balnakiel Bay. About three-fourths of the po- pulation, or all within six miles, attend. Its distance from the ex- tremity to the south-east is 26 miles, and from the western extre- mity 12 miles. It was built in 1619, and the aisle added in 1692; it has no galleries, and contains 300 sittings, which are all free. It stands much in need of repair and enlargement The practice of burying within the walls has been discontinued for nearly a cen- tury. The manse was rebuilt in 1830, and is commodious. The glebe, including its hill grazings and pertinents, may be worth L.30 per annum. The stipend is L. 150, and is on the list of small liv- ings augmented by act of Parliament in 1812. In the Eriboll district, there is sermon preached every alternate Sabbath ; it is connected with the Milness district of the parish of Tongue, twelve miles distant. The missionary here is supported solely by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, on a sa- lary of L. 50. There are no Dissenters or Roman Catholics. The sacrament is dispensed once a-year, in summer. The number of communicants is 70 ; but, on such occasions, tokens to the amount of 150 are distributed to communicants who attend from neigh- bouring parishes. Collections in aid of religious and charitable institutions are occasionally made, — the average annual amount of which may be L. 3. The schools in the parish are, parochial, 1 ; Assembly, 1 ; sub- scription, 2 1 in which the ordinary elementary branches are taught. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is the minimum, or L.24: of the General Assembly's L. 20. The school-fees in either of these do not exceed L. 4 per annum. The former has not the legal ac- commodations ; those of the latter are new and sufficient The subscription schools are chiefly taught during the winter. In some remote hamlets and families, boys are hired during the winter months to teach, at the rate of 20s. per month, and board. A con- siderable number of cottars and poor tenants, who have access to the parochial school, have not of late years been much alive to the benefits of education, — which may arise from their poverty, or want of confidence in the ability and diligence of a teacher so indiffe- rently remunerated. The number of persons betwixt 6 and 15 who cannot read or DURNESS. 103 write is 90; of those upwards of ]5, is 216. It must be borne in mind, however, that the majority of those not included in this calculation cannot write. It is to be hoped that the district where the Assembly school is situated will, ere long, derive considerable benefit from the school, both in a moral and intellectual point of view. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor receiving pa- rochial aid is 45, — in sums of from ds. to 8s. or 10s. each. The annual amount of contributions for their relief does not exceed L. 20, viz. church weekly contributions, L. 12, with the interest of a legacy, I^. 2, and alms, L. 6. It must be noticed, however, that in this, as well as in other Highland parishes, where the cir- culating medium is very scarce, the poor are regularly furnish- ed with meal, fleeces, clothes, &c. in value at least equal to the sums of money annually divided by the kirk-session. It is to be regretted that, of late, the poor do not consider it degrading to be on the roll of the session funds. There are no assessments for the poor, or charitable institutions ; yet, when extraordinary calls are made, the inhabitants have always manifested a commendable liberality. Inns. — There are three inns, or rather houses licensed to retail whisky. But hitherto, travellers have been in most cases obliged to draw on the hospitality of the inhabitants. Comfortable inns and stabling are, however, now in progress. Miscellaneous Observations. The most important change since the last Statistical Ac- count has been the introduction of sheep-farming, which commen- ced about thirty years ago, and has been extended since. Though in some respects this may have augmented the revenue of the pro- prietor, and added to the commercial wealth of the nation, yet it is very questionable, if k has added, in the meantime, to the in- tellectual, moral, or religious superiority of the inhabitants. The division of the parish into such extensive farms has also suppressed almost entirely the middle classes of society, who paid rents of from L. 10 to L. 50, and has thereby tended to extinguish, in a great degree, the intelligence and laudable emulation of the lower classes. The former generally felt a desire of giving every advantage of education to their children at school, and their ex- ample diffused an emulation among the latter. The great sheep- farmers who are resident employ teachers in their families ; the schools are attended by the poorer classes, who are all on the same 104 SUTHERLAND8HIRE. level, — and that, for the most part, during the winter only. Lads when they can handle an oar remove to Caithness, and after two or three years training there, getting the share of a boat on credit, they have arrived at the summit of their ambition, and marry. From the extinction of the middling classes of society, the writer hereof, in common with several of his brethren, has to regret the difficulty of finding men suitable for being ordained elders. It can- not be expected, however worthy the individuals may be who may be nominated to this office, that while poor and in some cases illite- rate, they can be so influential in checking immorality, stimulating to intellectual and religious attainments^ and suppressing supersti- tious and enthusiastic feeling. While such improvements have been made on the physical as- pect of the parish, by the liberality of the late Duke, and which there is every confidence will be continued, in making the harbours and creeks more accessible and available, it is hoped that the te- nants will gradually acquire the knowledge of artisanship, as well as of fishing, and thus add to the productive capabilities of the country, and their own individual comfort. September 1834. PARISH OF ASSYNT. PBESBYTERT OF DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. CHARLES GORDON, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The word Assyntj or AssitU, is supposed to be a Gae- lic oompound, ** as agus inntej** signifying out and in, evidently referriDg to, and descriptive of, the general outline of the parish. Indeed, a glance at the map of Assynt makes it extremely pro- bable that this derivation is correct. Other derivations have been given, connected with legendary traditions ; but the above seems die preferable one* Extent and Boundaries. — The parish contains 97,000 acres of sur&ce. Its extreme length, viz. from Cromalt to the point of Store, is about 36 miles. lis greatest breadth from Inverkirkig to Ardvar, about 18 miles. In breadth, however, it varies much. The parish is situated in the north-west part of the county of Sutherland, and is thus bounded : on the north, it is divided from the parish of Edderachillis, in the Reay country, by an arm of the sea of considerable breadth, called the Kyle, which runs betwixt both parishes from west to east ; on the east and south, by Kin- cardine, Creich, Lairg, and Lochbroom ; and on the west, by the Atlantic Topographical Appearances. — Few districts in Scotland are more mountainous. The general aspect of the parish is rugged. Many of the mountains are of considerable altitude. The most remark- able of these are, Benmore, Cuniack, Suilvhen, or Sugar-loaf, Cannisb, &c The first mentioned, Benmore, or Conval, is supposed to be the loftiest mountain in the county — about 8230 feet above the level of the sea* It is seen in various directions from a conside* rable distance. Ptarmigan are easily got here, especially during snow storms. Cuniack has a most romantic and peculiar shape and appear- SUTHERLAND. H 106 SUTHERLAND. ance. It is a lofty ridge, extending southwards from Unapool to Loch Assynt, where it terminates in a minute peak. On the west it is lofty, precipitous, and inaccessible. On the east it is more gradual. Suilvhen, or Sugar-loaf, as it is called by sea-faring people, on account of its resemblance to that article, is southward of Lochin- ver, and near the boundary of Coigach, in the county of Cromarty. These mountains are often covered with snow. Game is found in these and in other districts of the parish, but by no means in such abundance as before the introduction of sheep-farming. The other hills, which are extremSly numerous, are of less note, being diminutive in comparison of those we have mention- ed. Most of these abound in springs, and the quality of water is excellent. The lower part of the parish, particularly the Store district, is not so well supplied with this essential of life. Caves. — There are several caves, and some natural arches, to be found, chiefly along the coast, and some in the interior. There are two which are* often visited by the tourist, within two miles of the parish church, and on the Stronchrubie farm. Into one of these, if you enter, you must proceed in a creeping posture for several yards, through a rugged and dark passage, when you find yourself suddenly introduced into a well-lighted and somewhat spacious apartment. There is another cave of large dimensions near the point of Store. The extent of the coast from the water of Inverkirkig, round the point of Store, to Ardvar, is about twenty miles. The shore, in general, is bold, rocky, and dangerous ; though in some places there is a fine sandy bottom, and safe landing. There are many islands, most of them, however, so small as to be utterly insignificant; some of these are merely bare rocks, af- fording neither pasture nor shelter. The largest and most va- luable is the island of Oldney ; its length probably a mile, its greatest breadth a quarter of a mile. It is attached to the sheep farm of that name, and is valuable as a grazing. Its insular situa- tion renders herding and fences unnecessary. Crona, a little flat island adjoining Oldney. Soya and Klett, two small islands on the south side of Rhu- store, attached to the adjoining farm of Filin. MeteoroIoffy.-^Theve has been no record of observations kept The climate is extremely wet, and high winds prevail. From what has already been said regarding the mountainous nature of 3 ASSYNT. 107 the district, and its proximity' to the sea, it will readily be conclud- ed, that we have much rainy weather — so much is this the case, that the harvesting of our crop, is an operation extremely precarious. We frequently experience severe storms of thunder and lightning, and two years ago, a young man was instantaneously deprived of life by the electric fluid. At the same time some cattle also were struck dead* Instances of this kind are fortunately rare. The climate, though severe, is upon the whole salubrious, and the inhabitants healthy. Consumption, however, is not unfrequent, and is generally induced by exposure, during the long harvest nights, at the herring-fishing. The prevailing wind is westerly, and invariably accompanied by torrents of rain. With easterly winds we generally have dry weather, but these are piercing and intensely cold. Hydrography. — Every hill and valley, particularly in the heights of the parish, is abundantly supplied with springs of water, some of which are very large. There is one at Achumore, ten or twelve feet in circumference. There are several beautiful lakes, some pf which deserve to be particularly noticed. Loch Assynf. — Its extreme length is 6} miles ; its greatest breadth about a mile. It is a fresh water lake, and its banks in most places covered with brushwood. The scenery altogether is most delight- ful, and cannot fail to attract the notice of the intelligent tourist- It abounds in trout of various kinds, and as there is no restriction as to angling, or setting nets, the few inhabitants in the neighbour- hood are able, in the proper season, to supply themselves, with an agreeable and wholesome addition to their daily fare. Loch Assynt possesses considerable attraction for the angler* About two years ago, it was visited by Sir William Jardine, the naturalist, and others, who minutely inspected the different kinds of trout found here and in other lochs in the neighbourhood, the re- sult of whose researches must no doubt prove interesting and use- ful. Before there was a road from the height of the parish to the shores, there were several boats kept on the loch for the purposes of carriage. At the east end of the loch stands the church. Next in size to Loch Assynt is Cam- Loch, i.e. the crooked loch, in the Elphine, or highest district of the parish. It is a beautiful lake, very irregular in shape, as its name implies. Trout are found here in abundance, as well as in Loch Assynt. Cam- Loch is in a most sequestered spot 108 SUTHERLAND. Friths. — 1. The Kyle, already mentioned, is an arm of the sea, dividing Assynt from Edderachillis. 2. On the south side of Rhustore, there is an arm of the sea running into the bay of Loch- inver, which affords safe anchorage for vessels. Waterfalls. — There is a fall at Inverkirkig, and another near the boundaries of the glebe. The former possesses considerable attraction for the admirers of nature. With regard to the latter, except when there is a great body of water, after heavy rain, it appears insigniBcant. Geology and Mineralogy. — From Ledbeg to Achumore, a dis- tance of eight miles, there is abundance of limestone ; it then disap- pears, and little more is seen of it, till the traveller reaches Duir* ness. On the Stronchrubie farm is a stupendous ridge of lime- stone rock, interspersed with strata of sandstone. The scenery here is truly majestic In the vicinity of populous cities, this rock could not fail to prove the source of much wealth. It extends about a mile and a half, overhanging the public road* It is almost perpendicular, except about the centre. In many parts it is mantled with ivy. Birds of prey have their nests here. Its height is pro- bably 200 feet. Beyond Achumore there is no limestone found. The pasture on limestone bottom is uncommonly rich. Botany. — The alpine vegetation of the parish of Assynt is very similar to that which is met with in equal elevations in die greater part of the north of Scotland. As types may be mentioned, Saussurea alpina Chcrleria sedoides Hieraciuni alpinum Vaccinium uligtnosum, Asplenium viride as plants which are not very rare in alpine districts : but less generally diffused than such as these last named, onay be men- tioned, Carex pulla^ Carex pauciflora^ and Arbutus alpina. The limestone districts in the parish are characterized by Epipactis latifoliaf Dryas octopetala — the latter in great profusion, and perhaps, in Sutherlaudshire, only growing on limestone or mi- caceous rocks. Among the rare plants found in alpine or subalpine districts of the parish, may be mentioned Pyrus Aria^ Apargia alpina^ Lu^ zula arcuata, — this last found in Scotland only in three station^ of which Benmore, Assynt, is one. Silene maritima also grows on Benmore. The following may be named as yielded by the bogs in the parish : — ASSYNT. 109 Carex filiformis Drosera rotundifulia I limosa Sparganium fluitans Utricularia minor Cladium Mariscua, In a swamp half* way — intermedia between Kylestroma and BadcalL Drosera Anglica, in profusion LiguKticum Scoiicum is abundant on the ■ longifblia shores in some places. 11. — Civil History. There are no printed or manuscript accounts of Assynt extant, so far as the narrator knows. Various traditions, however, speak of individuals, noted in their day, living in or connected with the parish. Among these we may mention Neil Macleod, who resided at Ardvrack Castle (now a ruin), built on the banks of Loch Assynt, on a peninsula, situated within two miles of the eastern extremity of the loch. It is said that the unfortunate Marquis of Montrose, who 6gur- ed so conspicuously as a Royalist in the civil war in the reign of Charles L, after being defeated by General Strachan at Invercar- ron, fled towards Assynt, and was betrayed by Macleod, in whom he had reposed confidence. There are correct plans and maps of Assynt in the possession of the noble proprietrix, and a recent map of the county, both mi- nute and accurate, has been published. The Duchess- Countess of Sutherland is sole proprietrix of the parish. It has been in the possession of her Grace's family since the early part of the eighteenth century, when it was purchased by the then Earl of Sutherland, grandfather of the present Countess. In the former Statistical Account, published in 1794, is the following narrative : — " State of property^ ^c. — The property of this parish has, perhaps, undergone as few changes as any. Tra- dition, and even documents declare, that it was a forest of the an- cient Thanes of Sutherland. One of these prime Thanes gave it in vassalage to one Mac-Kry-Cul, who in ancient times held the coast of Coigach, that part of it presently (1793) called the vil- lage of Ullapool. The noble Thane thus made Assynt over, as Mac-Kry-Cul had recovered a great quantity of cattle carried off from the county of Sutherland by foreign invaders, Scandinavians, who burnt the great fir forests in this and the neighbouring coast. ^^ Mac-Kry-CuPs family, by the fate of war in those days of old, being reduced to one heir-female, she was given in marriage to a younger son of Macleod, Laird of Lewis, the Thane of Suther- land consenting thereto, and also making this parish over to the new married couple, with its superiority. The result of this mar. riage was fourteen successive lairds of the name of Macleod. no SUTHERLAND. '* In 1660} or about that time, this parish and its superiority be* came the property of the Earl of Seaforth, who made it over to a younger son of his family, whose successors possessed it for three or four generations. Thereafter, it was purchased by Lady Strath- naver, who gave it as a present to her Noble and no less deserving grandson, the late William, Earl of Sutherland, father of the pre- sent Right Honourable Countess of Sutherland, married to Earl farming is carried on to a con- siderable extent. It is also prosecuted systematically. Th^ great bulk, however, of the population dwell along the shores, where they have the benefit of fishing. They occupy lot« of land at rents ranging from L. 2 to L. 5. The land is not high rented, but the occupants, in general, are in straitened circum- stances. This arises from the over*crowded state of the popula- tion. On the lot of land which, according to the rental book, is assigned to only one family, two are frequently found residing. This is the true cause of our poverty, and, unless emigration on a large scale takes place, matters must soon come to a painful crisis. At the same time, from want of climate, a great part of Assynt is unfit for cultivation. Rents. — Of old, the valued rent of the parish was L. 1000 Scots. In the year 1794, it was L. 1000 Sterling. In the year 1812, when there was a general setting of the farms through the parish, it was about L. 5000 ; now it is reduced to something less than L.d00O. Quame^.-— From Ledbeg to Achumore the soil is limestone. 114 SUTHERLAND. About thirty years ago, an attempt was made to quarry marble both at Ledbeg, and in the immediate vicinity of the church. The marble was found susceptible of a very fine polish, and an enterprising individual, a native of Newcastle, commenced quarry- ing. Roads were formed, or rather tracts for the heavy waggons, from Ledbeg to Unapool, a distance of sixteen miles. This was an undertaking of considerable difficulty, and after a large quanti- ty was shipped, it was found attended with such expense, that it was impossible to compete with quarries, in more eligible situations, and the project was dropped. Salmon Fisheries. — There are no fisheries in the parish deserv- ing the name, except that on the water of Kirkag, and that which leads from Loch Assynt to Lochinver. These are let at a mode- rate rent. Navigation. — There are very few vessels belonging to Assynt. Mr Macdonald, Lochinver, has one or two. Several vessels, how- ever, are yearly employed on our coasts in the herring trade, and a few in exporting the produce of the parish, which consists chiefly ^f wool. There are no associations in the parish for the encouragement or improvement of industry ; but the Noble proprietors supply this de- ficiency in a great measure, by rewarding the industrious, and thus inciting to additional exertions. V. — Parochial Economy. Markets. — There is no market-town within the parish ; neither have any markets been established. It is intended to establish a cattle market at Inshnadamph. This would prove very advan- tageous to the people, and save them the expense and trouble of driving their cattle to a greater distance. The Kyle tryst, held in the vicinity of Bonar Bridge, forty miles beyond Inshnadamph, is the nearest cattle-market at present.* Lochinver is the only place deserving the name of a village. In it are some good houses, shops, and several tradesmen. In the immediate vicinity is a manufactory, for the preserving of butcher- meat, fish, and vegetables, which affords our sailors, and others, the luxury of fresh meat, whilst they are hundreds of leagues out at sea. It is carried on under the auspices of Mr Macdonald, an extensive and enterprising sheep-farmer. Regular employment is thus given to a number of tradesmen and labourers. Means of Communication^ S^c. — In this village, also, is a post- * Since writing the above a cattle-market has been established, and is likely to prove a permanent benefit. ASSYNT. 115 office. There is another in the immediate neighbourhood of the church. The mails arrive regularly twice a-week. This is one of the. greatest improvements imaginable. A letter or newspaper from London we have the fifth day. In connection with the post- office, I am naturally led to notice our excellent roads. Nothing has so much contributed to the external improvement of the coun- try as these, by which this interesting district, till lately inaccessible^ and comparatively unknown, has been opened up to the public ; and thus, advantages secured to the inhabitants, which our ancestors would have deemed impossible. This improvement is attributable, in a great measure, to the Noble proprietors, and, were there no other benefit conferred on it, Assynt, on this account, owes a last-' ing debt of gratitude to the late excellent Duke of Sutherland. The length of road constructed from Aultnacaelgach to Store, in- cluding branches to Unapool and Inverkirkig, exceeds forty miles. To this may be added several miles of bye roads for the exclusive benefit of the tenantry. There is a small convenient harbour at Lochinver, where a pier has been erected. There are some other harbours, or rather creeks, at Nedd, Oldney, and Ardvar, all ly- ing on the north side of the point of Store, which afford shelter and anchorage. Saving^ Bank. — There was a savings' bank established about four years ago, and it is now in full operation. It has already proved very beneficial. It is under the patronage of the Suther- land family, who encourage industry by giving a higher rate of in- terest than the banks do, for all sums not exceeding L.20 Sterling. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated within nine miles of the southern boundary of the parish — a situation extreme- ly inconvenient for the people. The great bulk of the population dwell at distances from the church, varying from twelve to eighteen miles. The intervening population is very small. The church was built upwards of sixty years ago, but was re-slated and seated about twenty-five years ago. It is seated for 260 or 280 sitters. It is small, but comfortable. There are two other regular preaching stations, where the minister has to officiate, viz. Lochinver, distant fourteen' miles, to which there is a good road leading; and Kyle- side, nearly the same distance, but without any road at all. In the former district there is preaching once in the three weeks ge- nerally, or once a month at farthest ; in the other, once in the six or seven weeks. At Lochinver there is a pretty good house built by subscription, to which the late Duke, and the Duchess- Coun- Il6 SUTHERLAND. tess of Sutherland largely contributed* It is only partially seated as yet. It is also used as a General Assembly school-house dur- ing the week. In the Kyle side public worship has to be perform- ed in the open air, however inclement the weather. Strong appli- cations for additional accommodation in both districts have been made to the Religious Instruction Commissioners, but hitherto without success. There is a Government or Parliamentary church at Store, built in 1829. To this is attached a population of 1403, leaving upwards of 1700 scattered over a vast extent of inaccessible surface, as has already been described. In order to carry on pastoral superintendence properly, a minis- ter is required at Lochinver, and another at Kyleside. There are no missionaries in the parish. Public worship is well attebded by the people. The average number of communicants is 80, — a num- ber certainly small when compared with the population. The communion is regularly administered once a-year. The stipend amounts to L. 158, 6s. 8d., including the allowance for communion elements. The glebe is pretty extensive. It is chiefly adapted for grazing, and, at the rate at which lands in the neighbourhood are let, might fetch a rent of L.20 or L.25 Ster- ling per annum. The manse was built about fifteen years ago, but, from frequent storms, and its exposed situation, it very often re- quires repairs. The minister of the Parliamentary church at Store has an annual stipend of L. 120, paid by the Exchequer, and a glebe worth L. 7 a-year. There are no dissenting places of worship, and not above half a dozen Dissenters in the whole parish. There is a catechist who receives L.8 annually from the so- ciety in Scotland for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and, with the exception of this pittance, he is remunerated solely by the people. There is no such thing as letting of church seats known amongst us. The average annual amount of church collections is L. 7, 18s. Education* — The schools in the parish are 7 in number, viz. the parochial school, three from the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, one from the Edinburgh Gaelic School Society, one from the Glasgow Gaelic School Society, and one from the General Assembly's Education Committee. Besides these, in various remote districts the people club together to provide a teacher for their children, during the winter and spring months. None of these schools are endowed except the parochial one. In it the teacher's ASSYNT. 117 salary is L.25; the General Assembly's teacher, L.25 ; the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge give L. 15 to their teachers; and the Glasgow Society, L. 12. All these teachers are entitled to demand fees, which privilege is not of much advantage to them, as far as money is concerned. Many of the people, however, make some remuneration, by supplying the teacher with provisions and fuel. The Edinburgh Gaelic School Society allow their teach- ers a salary of L.25, without the liberty of exacting fees. These schools are pretty well attended from the beginning of November till the end of March. The branches taught are, reading in Gae- lic and English, writing, arithmetic, &c. ; a very few are learning Latin. There is much need that the system of education amongst us should be improved, and the qualification of teachej^s raised. At the same time, we would acknowledge the obligations under which we lie to the charitable and religious associations above named. The Bible is read daily in all our schools, and attention paid to the religious instruction of the pupils. A reading club has been instituted, and promises well. There is no jail. Poor. — The number of poor annually relieved, (exclusive of the Stoer district,) 73. Amount annually expended in their relief, L. 13, 15s. Amount for that purpose arising from church collec« tions, L. 7, 12s. Amount from other sources, L. 6, 3s. The poor are divided into three classes, and get respectively 4s., 2s. 6d., and 2s. each. Akhotues. — There is a competent number of public houses li- censed, and all others are strictly prohibited the selling of ardent spirits. In this respect a decided change for the better has taken place. Fuel. — Peats are universally used, and much difficulty is expe* rienced in seasoning them, arising from the excessive rains with which we are often deluged. Since writing the foregoing Account, Her Grace the Duchess- Countess of Sutherland has been removed from this world ; and her titles and estates have devolved upon Her Grace's eldest son, the present Duke, who has become twenty-second Earl of Suther- land. To the late Duchess, the parish of Assynt owed much. She uniformly manifested a warm interest in the welfare of its inhabi- tants ; and it is evident they evinced a hereditary and respectful 118 SUTHERLAND. attachment to her Grace, who, during the singularly long period of seventy-three years, retained possession of the most ancient title in Europe. We look forward with conBdence to the present No- ble proprietor for a continuation of that kindness, which, for ages, characterized the Sutherland family. Draum up November 1637. Revised JIarch 1840. PARISH OF EDDERACHILLIS. PRBSBTTERT OF TONGUB, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. GEORGE TULLOCH, MINISTER.* L — Topography and Natural History. Extent — The parish of Edderachillis is situated on the north-west coast of the county of Sutherland, along the shores of the Atlantic, being a portion of the Reay country, commonly called ^^ Duthaich'' mhuyAoidfu" Its extreme length, from north to souths is 25 miles, by an average breadth from west to east towards the inte- rior of 7 miles, making 175 square miles, equal to 112,000 acres or thereby. In this is included the district of Keanlochbervie, some time ago disunited from the parish of Edderachillis, and erect- ed into a separate parish qtwad aacra^ under act of Parliament 5 Geo. IV. cap. 90. Edderachillis was part of the barony of Skelbo. It was disponed by Hugo Freskyn de Moravia, ancestor of the Duke of Sutherland, 1186-1203, to his brother. Bishop Gilbert Moray, who in 1235 disponed it to his brother Richard Moray of Culbyn. About 1440, an heiress, Egidia Moray, carried it into the family of Kinnaird of Kinnaird. In 1515, Andrew Kinnaird disponed it to John Mac- kay of Edderachillis, son of Mackay of Strathnaver, the superiority remaining with the Earls of Sutherland. The purchase of 1829 restored it to the Sutherland family. Name. — The name is Celtic, the orthography and pronunciation being Eadar^da-chaolasj literally signifying between two friths or inlets of the sea, which can be readily reconciled to its geographical • Drawn up by A. Stewart, Esq. BDDBRACHILLIS. 119 positioii, Kylesku separating it from Assynt on the south ^west, and the Kyle of Laxford,* in the ancient division, on the north* east, although in modern times it extends to Gualin Hill. Boundaries. — It is bounded on the south, by Kylesku, Loch Glencoul, parish of Assyntj and some of Creich ; on the west, by the Atlantic ocean ; od the south, by the parish of Durness ; and on the east, partly by Durness also, and partly by the parish of Lairg. Figure^ General Appearance, and Natural Divisions. — Its figure is irregular, intersected with arms of the sea, and from the top of one of the mountains, presenting a checquered appearance of lakes, glens, rivers, and ravines. To view it from sea, at the distance of some miles from the coast, it is allowed to be particularly like Nor- way, affording an unbounded field for contemplation to the admirers of nature, in consequence of its sublime scenery and striking Alpine character. *' Stranger ! if e*er thine ardent steps have traced The northern realms of ancient Caledon, Where the proud queen of wilderness hath placed, By lake and cataract, her lonely throne ; Suhlime hut sad delight thy soul hath known. Gazing on pathless glen and mountain high, Listing where from the cliffs the torrent thrown, Mingle their echoes with the eagle's cry. And with the sounding lake, and with the roaming sky, 'Tis known amid the pathless wastes of Reay.*' The parish is naturally divided by arms of the sea into the three following divisions, 1. Scourie division, situated between Loch Glendhu and Loch I^axford. 2. ** Ceathramh-garhh^^ between Loch Laxford and Loch Inchard; and 3, Ashare. The name of the first of those divisions cannot be traced to any particular origin, whilst that of the other^two may be ascribed to the natural appearance of the localities, — " Ceathramh-garbh,^* in Gaelic signi- fying a rough section of a country ; a term applicable in reality to this division ; and Ashare, or " FaS'4.hire^ with the " JF" silent, signifying arable land, or land capable of producing corn. Mountains. — The mountains demanding particular notice are those of Beinne-Leothaid, Beinne-Stac, Beinne-Stroim, Arkle, and the south-west range of the Reay forest to the summit of Toinne-Bheinne, Meal Horn, Sabhal-mhoir and Mille-Rinidh, with part of Beinne-Shith. The shape of Beinne-Stac is conical, Arkle rather level in the top, with a glassy or stalactical appear- * Meaning the salmon frith,— from Lax, a salmon, and^ri^, a frith. — See Jame- son*8 Dictionary 120 SIJTHERI.AND.. Bficej eiSpeciaUy after rain ; each of which, as well as the forest range^ are close to dOOO feet above the level of the sea. Lakes. — The most remarkable lakes are Loch-moir and Loch- Stac; bat many others of considerable size might be mentioned. Rtveri.— Lazford and Inchard are the largast, with innumerable rivulets, all discharging themselves into the Atlantic. Islands. — A cluster of islands, of about twenty, lies between Edderachillis and Assynt, and to the north of Scourie Bay, the inland of Handa ; no less celebrated from its rising perpendicularly on the north*west side to a height of 600 feet or thereby ; than for the myriads of sea-fowl which migrate to its precipitous cliffs in the summer season to bring forth their young. The tourist would be as much gratified by a visit to this island as to Staffa, the charac- ter of its rocks being more singular and striking. The basaltic columns of Stafia are to be met with in more than in one part, but those of Handa are peculiar to it only, lying as they do horizontal- ly, and presenting an appearance as if all were built by the hand of man. Natural JHarSottr*.— The whole line of coast is much favoured in respect to harbours. They are sufficient to afford safe anchorage to the whole naval and mercantile shipping of Great Britain. Those of most note are lochs Laxford, Inchard, Badcall, Calva, Glendhu, and Sound of Handa. General Description. — Owing to the mountainous character of the country, the natural capabilities are chiefly confined to the rearing of sheep: the greater part is so appropriated. The sea coast is to be viewed of similar importance as regards the fisheries. The quantity of com is limited, and, in consequence of the rug- gedness and unevenness of the surface, it is raised by the force of manual labour, with scarcely any aid from the plough. ' But what nature has denied in one way for the support of man is bestowed in another, by the unlimited quantities of fish which surround the coast, particularly the herrings : they formerly fre- quented it in great shoals in autumn, and still not unfrequcntly in summer. The pasture is of a healthy and sound quality. Such por- tions of the land as are under tillage are not of a bad quality, and yield fair returns. The rivers produce salmon, and the lakes are all well stocked with trout,— both of excellent quality. Meteorology, — The weather is changeable, and the prevailing winds are south and west The temperature cannot be reckoned cold, but the atmosphere, owing to the vapours from the Atlantic, EDDERACHILLIS. 121 and the high bills attracting the clouds, is humid, and productive of rheumatic and Scrofulous affections, the latter often proving fatal. Heavy falls of snow occur, but are of short duration along the coast, although the higher grounds partially retain their coats till June. There are instances of great longevity and retention of phy- sical faculties. Small-pox made its appearance last season, but its progress, under Divine will, was soon arrested by the immediate and general application of cow-pox, attended to by a surgeon appointed for the purpose, at the expense of the Duke of Su- therland. Solar and lunar rainbows are not unfrequent; and a most striking view is that of the sun setting in summer, casting its rays in crimson hue across the bosom of the ocean. The aurora borealis or Northern Lights occasionally shew themselves, are extremely vivid, and, according to vulgar acceptation, " arrayed against each other in the order of a line of battle." Although we are not strangers to the terror of the thunder storm, seldom or ever any accidents are heard of; flashes of lightning are pe- riodically common about the commencement of each quarter. A rare, if not an unprecedented, phenomenon in this latitude, occurred in winter 1838, by an avalanche destroying no less than a herd of twelve deer; and such was the force of that terrific body, that it not only killed the animals on the spot, but when the forester found them, their bones were crushed to pieces. The fury of sea storms is often the cause of great alarm and damage, particularly in winter, and to the observer on shore is magnificently grand when they are from the north-west ; the noise of the billows of the At- lantic heaving against the rocks is tremendous, and only equalled by the height to which they are raised, known in some instances to be no less than about 600 feet against the precipitous rocks of Handa. Shipwrecks, however, are not so common as they were, owing to a lighthouse having been erected on Cape Wrath. Hydrography. — The most direct approach from the south to this parish is through a part of Assynt to Kylesku, at which there is a ferry between Edderachillis and Assynt, of 380 yards broad. The tide of this narrow inlet is extremely rapid, readily accounted for by the great expanse of sea on both sides ; from it two exten- sive lochs branch into the interior. Loch Glendhu on the left, and Loch Glencul on the right hand, — the former upwards of three miles long, by one and a-half broad, and the latter nearly five long, by one broad, — both of great depth, and no less celebrated for the quantity and quality of their herrings than for their singular wild- SUTHBRLAND. I 122 SUTHERLAND. ness and romantic scenery, the hills rising on every side to a great height, and interspersed with formidable cliffs. The great arm of the sea forming this inlet on the west, juts in firom the ocean a distance of ten miles, and is commonly but erroneously called in the charts " Loch Assynt" To instance the importance of Loch Glendhu for herrings, so recently as the autumn of 1829, it was estimated that the value of herrings caught in it was L30,000 ; and it has been known that 100 herring busses have resorted to it at a time. The other harbours and sea lochs, already noticed, are pro- ductive of herrings and other varieties of fish, including shell-fish. To advert to the fresh water lakes, Loch-Moir and Loch-Stac are the two most conspicuous ; not only from their inlanc position, and as giving rise to the river Laxford, but as they form the con- fines of the great Reay Forest on the south-west. The former is five miles long by one broad ; the latter three long and two broad. Their water, rising from the bowels of the mountains, which are principally gneiss, quartz, and felspar, is particularly limpid and free of impurities. Good wholesome water is to be had in all parts, principally from perennial springs. Geology and Mineralogy. — The characters and varieties that arise under those heads are neither numerous nor very important, as far as they have been yet discovered ; and did we enter on par- ticulars, too much space would necessarily be occupied. As a whole, Edderachillis is of the primitive and transition classes, and the ranges of mountains already mentioned, with little exception, consist of gneiss, various hornblende rocks, granite in vieins, and quartz rock. Limestone is met with on the sides of Lochs Glen- dhu, Glencul, and Loch-Moir. Hornblende slates are to be found round Scourie and at Kylestrome. Handa island is composed chiefly of red sandstone, the quality of which cannot be excelled for every description of architectural work. • Soil, — The soil along the coast and in the valleys, principal- ly recumbent on gneiss, is of various descriptions. The great- er part of the arable is a mixture of gravel and moss, fertiliz- ed by the application of sea-weed for manure, which imparts to the land a considerable portion of organic matter, and its alkaline properties neutralize the acid which the moss con- tains. The district of Ashare is better soil than the rest, being dark loam intermixed with sand, and the features of that section of the parish convey a belief that it has been earlier inhabited and 4 EDDERACHILLIS. 123 cultivated than the rest The arable land of the island of Handa 18 of a similar qualify. Zoology. — The domestic animals need not be enumerated under this head, as reference will be made to them in another part of this account. The wild animals common to the rest of the High- lands are to be met with. The 6rst to be noticed is the red-deer (Cervus elaphusjj and not inapplicably named the monarch of the forest In this country, where so much is done for preserv- ing and propagating his species, we are called upon to pav more than ordinary attention in delineating what has been done. The Reay forest, or Diru^moir, has had always a place amongst the principal forests in Scotland ; a character in this respect it main- tained for many generations, till within the last quarter of a cen- tury, when it gradually declined, owing to the introduction of sheep. Upon the expiry of the leases of such part of the forest as had been thus allotted for sheep, — the Duke of Sutherland has re- stored the whole to what it originally was, excluding sheep, and placing the range in charge of foresters solely for the preservation of deer. This not only amply provides for the animal most cha- racteristic of the country, and most conducive to the sportsman^s adventures, but also relieves the whole neighbouring sheep-walks of the greater part of the deer that roamed over them, the main- tenance of which was a considerable burden. The extent of terri- tory so exclusivcj^y laid off for deer cannot be less than 60,000 acres, whereof the half is in this parish, and the rest in Durness, inhabited by some thousands of deer, and inferior as a forest to none in Scotland. Sir Robert Gordon, in his History of the Earl- dom of Sutherland, written in the year 1 630, gives the following account of the forest, viz. — " The halfe of the Diri-more, which lyes toward the north and north-west, doth appertein of late to Macky, by the Erie of Southerland, his gift and disposition. In the Diri-more, ther is a hill called Arkill ; all the deir that ar bred therein, or hant within the bounds of that hill, have forked taills, thrie incles long, whereby they are easailie known and decerned from all other deir." The description thus given of the deer hav- ing forked tails is still applicable. It may be added, that the Laxford affords angling for salmon and trout, not to be surpassed by any river in the north. The quadrupeds and birds are thus described in Sir Robert Gordon's work of 1630, and have since undergone very little change, vit. " All these forrests and schases are verie profitable for 124 SUTHERLAND. feiding of bestiall, and delectable for hunting. They are full of reid-deir and roes, woulffs, foxes, wyld catts, brocks skuyrells, whittrets, weasels, otters, martrixes, hares, and fumarts. In these forrests, and in all this province, ther is great store of partridges, pluivers, capercalegs, blackwaks, m«refowls, heth-hens, swanes^ bewters, turtle-doves, herons, dowes, steares or stirlings, lair-igigh or knag, (which* is a foull lyke unto a paroket or parret, which maks place for her nest with her beck in the oak trie), duke, draig, widgeon, teale, wild-gouse, ringouse, routs, whaips, shot^whaips, woodcock, larkes, sparrows, snyps, blackburds or osills, meiveis, thrushes, and all other kinds of wild-foule and birds, which are to be had in any pairt of this kingdonae." From the above list, only the wolf and capercailzies need to be excluded, in order to make it nearly applicable to the present time. Birds. — These are, three species of the eagle, the royal, black mountain, and osprey or fish-eagle, — hawks, (various kinds,) — owls, cuckoos, black-cocks, ptarmigans, moorfowls, partridges, golden and gray plovers, woodcocks, snipes, starlings, sparrows^ thrushes, wagtails, swallows, kingfishers, rock, and wood, and sea pigeons, mavis, and landrails. Swans, wild geese, ducks, (dif- ferent kinds,) the great northern divers, scarts, solan-geese, cranes, gulls, and many other sea-fowls and birds of passage, frequent Handa in the summer months. Fishes, — These are, salmon, trout, char, herrinf, ling, cod, scate, turbot, flounder, haddock, halibut, mackerel, tusk, lythe, coalfish, dogfish, whiting, eel, silver-eyed fish, sunfish, and gurnards. In a country where the coast swarms with fish, some may have escaped notice, and others, perhaps, have not been discovered j for, so lately as December 1838, the writer transmitted to the Edinburgh College Museum, two very rare specimens recently found at Scourie. Pro- fessor Jameson gave them a place in the Museum, being presented by the lamented Duchess- Countess of Sutherland, and describes them thus : " Two specimens of fishes ; the smaller of the two is very rare, and is new to the Fauna of Scotland ; it is the Poor Cod of authors ; the other, or larger specimen, is the Ttimaculated Wrasse,*' Cetacea. — The cetaca frequenting the coast are, the whale and the porpoise : and the seal may be included. A very remarkable specimen as to size, measuring in length 8 feet 2 inches, was shot by Captain Granville Gower Loch, R.N. in 1837, in the sea be- tween Assynt and Edderachillis. 3 EDDERACHILLIS. 125 Neither the whale nor the sunfish are captured on this coast ; the former seldom in any part of Scotland. The latter used to be taken in considerable numbers on the coasts of the islands of Harris and Barra, through the dexterity of the natives harpoon- ing them at sea. The liver alone yields oil to the amount of 360 gallons at an average. Crustacea and ShelUJish are to be had in great varieties and of superior quality, consisting of lobsters, crabs, oysters, mussels, cockles, welks, and limpets, also pearls in the rivers. The lob- sters are brought in large quantities to London, and allowed to be the best exposed in Billingsgate. Beasts and Birds of Prey and Vermin. — On this subject it may be remarked, that wolves were at one time numerous, and, to avoid their ravages in raising bodies from the graves, the popula- tion had recourse to the Island of Handa as their place of inter* ment. This is the tradition of the country, and it is believed to be well founded. The destructiveness of the fox amongst the sheep is now most to be complained of. The otter amongst the salmon, and the common rat and mouse, could all be well dispen- sed with. No country produces finer specimens of the black mountain eagle, so hostile to lambs; ravens and crows also com- mit depredations. Reptiles. — These are, the adder {Anguis Eryx)^ lizard, toad, and frog. The firet is injurious. The following instance is worthy of notice : Some years ago, Donald Morrison, tenant, A share, was stung ; and the effects gave rise to apprehensions of imme- diate death. When in the greatest agony, the captain of a strange vessel landed on the coast, who prescribed the following singular cure : a young chicken to be split or cut up alive, and instantly applied to the stung part. After the same treatment had been re- peated by cutting up alive and applying nine chickens without in- termission, the patient was relieved ; each chicken which was ap- plied indicating by its swelling that it had absorbed poison. The individual who underwent this treatment recovered, is still alive, and enjoys perfect health. Botany. — The field for the botanist is rather limited. Profes- sor Graham remarks, that the Luziila arcuata has been found only in three stations in Britain, the summit of the mountains at the source of the Dee, Benmore in Assynt, and Fionnbhein, ranging into this parish. There are appearances of the whole country having been at 126 SUTHERLAND. some period covered with wood, in the remains of trees, principally fir, which are found in the mosses. The natural wood now stand- ing is limited to about 600 acres, almost birch, along the banks of Loch-Moir, Loch-Stac, and at Badna bay. Wood has not been planted, with the exception of a very small portion round the fac- tor's house at Scourie, and has given way owing to its proximity to the ocean. There can be no doubt, that all kinds indigenous to the British Isles would grow in the interior, if they were on a large scale, and properly attended to. Apple, also pear trees, and small fruit bushes, as also culinary vegetables, thrive well in the garden at Scourie. II. — Civil History. Nothing is known of Edderachillis as a parish, earlier than 1726, the date of its erection, — except that, before that time, it formed part of the parish of Durness, and was disjoined on an ap- plication to the General Assembly by the heritor. Lord Reay, and Mr John Mackay, minister of Durness, and endowed by a fund arising from the teinds, and a general subscription over Scotland. The district, however, occupies rather a conspicuous place in the annals of the Mackay's country. A branch of the Mackays, at so early a period as 1550, took possession of the territory of Ekidera- chillis by displacing the Macleods, and planted themselves at Scourie, under the title of " Mackays of Scouri^" The unjusti- fiable means to which they had recourse to procure this settle- ment, is defined in the last Statistical Account by the Rev. Mr Falconer. A repetition of it here is unnecessary. Amongst the descendants of the Mackays of Scourie, were men eminent for piety and chivalry. The history of one of them in particular claims attention, whose character merits admiration for its many virtues. This was Lieutenant- General Hugh Mac- kay of Scourie, the famous Commander-in-Chief of the time of King William and Mary. He was born in 1640 ; the account of his life, published by his descendant, Mr John Mackay of Rock- field, is well worthy of a perusal. He fought against Dundee at the battle of Killicrankie ; and although the fortunes of that day proved adverse, he showed great military skill in his retreat, and fully regained any character it might have^ been supposed he had lost, by his great success in Ireland, particularly at the battle of the Shannon, where he displayed much military skill and bravery. Many other great exploits could be mentioned. He was to have been rewarded by a peerage, under the title of " Earl of Scourie ;'' EDDERACHILLIS. 127 but this was prevented by the alleged intrigue of his rival, Mac- kenzie of Coigacb or Cromarty, This great naan's career termi- nated in 1692; he fell shortly after the siege of Namur, where he commanded the British division of the grand army. Parochial Register* — There are no traces of a parochial record having been kept prior to 1819. From that period, births and marriages have been carefully recorded. Antiquities. — Little can be stated on this head. At Kylestrome there are the remains of a Danish fort tolerably entire : and at Scourie there are still visible the remains of a similar building, as well as of tumuli. At Badnabay, also, there is the appearance of a Druidical circle of stones. Laiid-oumers. — The Duke of Sutherland is sole proprietor of the parish, — into whose possession, with the rest of the Reay coun- try, it came in 1829: it was then almost in a state of nature, with- out a foot of road or other improvements,— the most commendable thing about it being the excellent deportment of its natives as to religion, and in respect of moral and social order. RoadSf Sfc. — The aspect of the country has been since changed by the construction of roads, erection of inns, and farm-houses. These improvements extended over the whole county of Sutherland. In the aggregate, no less than 480 miles of roads have been made, greatly by the means, and wholly through the instrumentality, of bis Grace. Thcf portion of these roads confined to this parish is 32 miles in extent; and three inns have been erected in it solely at the Duke's expense. Means of Communication. — It appears from the former Statisti- cal Account, that there was no regular post communication with the south, — a circumstance which caused great complaint in these days ; and the only way of receiving letters was by a few of the pa- rishioners contributing to send a runner once a-fortnight to Tongue, to which place there was a communication from the south round by Caithness, — the difference between the direct line and this route being at least 150 miles. Instead of this, there is now a post- office at Scourie, having intercourse, by means of a mail-gig twice a- week, with Golspie, where there is a daily post to all parts of the kingdom. The internal communication was equally defective, — the intercourse being carried on by boating, and on unshod ponies, which scrambled over the precipices with wonderful safety and agility. Few accidents arose from either. The last was the case^of Captain William Scobie of Ardvar, who was drowned in 128 SUTHERLAND. the sound of Handa, exceedingly lamented on account of his many excellent qualities. Buildings. — In a country like this, almost entirely pastoral, many extensive buildings are not required. It is a marked fea- ture in its character, since the succession of the Duke of Suther- land, that new farm-houses and inns have displaced the old, — in- troducing a new era in this district, and illustrating the liberality and ability of the new landlord. III. — Po PULATI ON. The population in 1792, according to the last Statistical Ac- count, was 1024; and the last census makes it 1965, giving the striking increase of 941, notwithstanding that many families emi- grated. Character of the People^ 8fc. — The population is domiciled along the coast in townships or hamlets, each family possessing a cer- tain portion of land. Their houses are of a better description than the ordinary run of Highland houses, and amongst them are a few slated cottages. The people are moral, hospitable, and very mind- ful of their poor. They are particularly honest ; and hardly ever a case of theft occurs, even when the wants of the population are great. For example ; a ship laden with com was stranded at Loch Laxford in 1838; and though the vessel and cargo, in the confusion of the shipwreck, was laid open to pillage, — to the cre- dit of the people be it told, nothing was stolen ; a self-denial scarcely to be met with anywhere, under similar circumstances. Gaelic is the vernacular tongue, and generally spoken : the great- er number of the young speak English also ; and the few south country shepherds amongst them speak English only. Illegitimate births seldom occur, — there having been only four within the last three years. The names most' prevalent, are Morrison, Mackay, Macleod, and Mackenzie. The men are athletic; and such of them as were in the army made first-rate soldiers. Their features are marked, and, although not particularly well favoured, indicate a bold and resolute character. The women are comely. The co- lour of the hair is generally light, and the complexion rather fair. In the article of dress, they are not extravagant. On Sundays and holidays, they are neatly and cleanly attired. The elderly people dress in cloth of their own manufacture. Such as repair to the south and Caithness herring-fishing, adopt, to a considerable extent, the lowland dress and habits. Ur^nuw iuOuriuiJi'U*. ffi EDDERAGHILLIS. 129 IV. — Industry. AgricuUiire and Fishing. — The productive employments of the people consist in tilling the ground and fishing, mih the various operations attendant on both. In a country where there is not an immediate market for the sale of fish, and for affording the neces- saries of life, the combination of these employments is found to answer well. The operation of laying down the crop commences about the middle of March, and finishes in May. Harvest begins in August, and ends in October. The crops raised are, potatoes, bear or bigg, and oats. In the absence of the plough, the imple- ment used in laying down the crop is the common garden spade and Cas^rmn. A description of the latter having been so repeated- ly given in other accounts of Highland parishes, it need not be presented here. Since the construction of the roads, many of the tenants have carts, which are in all about forty: these were un- known before the Duke acquired the estate. Soon after the sowing is completed, the most enterprising com- mence the early herring fishing; and such as have large boats, in the latter end of July, on the Caithness coast, whence they return in the beginning of September. Their occupation in winter is promiscuous, — thrashing corn, attending to their cattle, making, repairing, and trimming herring nets for the ensuing season — the females spin- ning and knitting. The rate charged for spinning hemp is 6d. per pound, but in the neighbouring district of Assynt, Sd. ; and it not unusually happens that a reckoning is kept amongst the members of the family, between sisters and brothers, of the quan- tity spun for herring nets, and closed by payment. This exact- ness cannot be too highly extolled, as it inculcates economy and value for money, so very desirable to be observed by all classes in the Highlands. Lobster-fishing is also carried on by a London company, who employ a number of the natives in procuring the lobsters, which they carry off alive in well-smacks to the Thames. This fishing commences in April, and ends in October. The last to be noticed is the salmon-fishery, commencing in March and closing in August. Kelp. — The manufacturing of kelp in former years gave employ- ment to a number of the people. Advancement in the science of chemistry disclosed substitutes for kelp, which have entirely thrown it out of the market, — a result not to be regretted, as the sea weed from which it was made is the manure that Nature has set apart for the land. Although kelp yielded a certain revenue to 130 SUTHERLAND. a landlord, its manufacture retarded agricultural improvements, and thereby curtailed the quantity of produce which the land would otherwise yield for the maintenance and comfort of the popula- tion. Produce. — In order to bring all under one view, a table is here presented, showipg the number of men employed, the amount of stock and capital invested, and annual returns ; with a comparison betwixt the particulars of this and the last Statistical report of the parish. Live-stock. — The breed of sheep on the large farms is a pure Cheviot, to ^hich great attention is paid. The sheep in the hands of small tenants is a cross between the native breed of small black-faced sheep and the Cheviot, and of late years has been much improved. The breed of black-cattle, comparatively speaking, is not very good, and much might be done towards its improvement. ' Before the hills were taken up for sheep stocks, the country was deservedly famed for the breed of Highland ponies or gamms^ extremely hardy, and some of them living to the age of thirty. The present Orkney breed is in a great degree descended from them, having at one time been sold hence in considerable droves. Manufactories. — No establishment of this kind exists, and there is rather a scarcity of artisans and mechanics. Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land per acre can- not be exactly specified, as each lot or portion has a share of pasture land attached to it, held in common by the tenants of the respective townships. The following may convey an idea of the extent and nature of these holdings. The rents payable by each small tenant are from L. 2 to L. 5. To illustrate, we will advert to a L. 3 rent, which is a very common one. In a favourable sea- son, the crop produced, together with milk and fish, supports a family of four for eight months. Three small Highland cows, eight sheep, and one horse, form the stocking. These holdings, with their supply of fuel, however limited they may appear, — in a country where fish is abundant, enable the fru- gal occupants to live moderately well. Wages. — The wages of carpenters, smiths, masons, and tailors are about 2s. 6d. per day. Farm-servants, besides board, receive L. 7 yearly ; maids, L. 3, lOs. Mr Falconer states the wages in 1792 to have been, for a farm-servant, L.2, and for a maid-ser- vant, 17s. 8d. yearly — besides perquisites. EDDERACHILLIS. S : :g ; ; ; ■iiP§3i5 'm ^IS§S§I : As^'Hi iS2 -Mi^U ■8k|»| ' ■ .■3 i 'I t-ij'lPfs'll'll'i 1 IJ |i| 111 ill iir 132 SUTHERLAND. It is to be regretted that the cod and ling fisheries are not more prosecuted ; the natives are excellent herring fishers, but too lax as to the other : indeed, as yet, little or nothing has been done, in applying skill or capital towards the advancement of this im- portant branch of industry. The island of Handa is tenanted by twelve families. Besides fishing, they have recourse to other employment of a very ha- zardous character, by resorting to the daring enterprise of going a- fowling among the precipitous rocks round the island, from whence they bring, at the imminent risk of their lives, a vast quantity of sea fowls and eggs, to be used by them for food, and the feathers to be disposed of to their mainland neighbours. In this perilous avocation, some have fallen over the rocks, and been instantly kill- ed. It is curious enough, that they have established nothing less than Royalty amongst them, in the person of the eldest widow on the island, who is designed Queen ; and her prerogative is recog- nized not only by the islanders, but by visitors from the mainland. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — The whole population is of the Church of Scotland, and there are no Dissenting or Seceding families in the parish. There are two churches ; one at Badcall, and another at Keanlochbervie, both commodious, and in excellent repair. The stipend is the minimum, L. 150, whereof L.103, 6s. 8d is paid by the Exchequer, and the balance, L.46, 13s. 4d., by the he- ritor. The extent of the glebe is about 320 acres, and its yearly value L.30, or thereby. The manses and offices at Badcall and Keanlochbervie respectively are recent erections, the former built by the heritor in 1835, and the latter by Government in 1828. Education, — The schools are the parochial school at Scouqe, and a school at Ashare, from the Society for Propagating Christ- ian Knowledge. There is no regular Sabbath school kept The attendance at both schools is considerable It is believed that a parochial school in connection with Keanlochbervie church will be soon established. In some of the remote hamlets, there is private tuition in winter. The yearly amount of the parochial schoolmas- ter's salary is L. 35, 17s. 9d. : the school fees and other emolu- ments are trifling. A reading club has been recently established at Scourie. Savings Bank. — There is one Savings bank at Scourie. The whole amount invested is L. 443, Vs. 6d., and the operations are very limited. KII.DONAN. 133 Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is about 40, and the allotment to each yearly is from 3s. to li>s« The average amount of annual contri- butions for the poor is about L.20, whereof there is from church collections L. 14, and from the heritor L.6. No legal assessment has been imposed* Fuel. — This article, so very necessary for the existence and comfort of man, nature has provided in great abundance. Tracts of moss are open to all, and at no other expense than that of cut« ting the turf, and drying it by exposure to the action of the at- mosphere. JuffUit 1840. PARISH OF KILDONAN- ♦ PRESBYTBRY OF DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. JAMES CAMPBELL, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Namtj Sfc. — The name Kildonan was spelt Keldurunachj in a charter by Gilbert Murray, who was Bishop of Caithness between the years 1222 and 1245 ; and in the seventeenth century, it was written Kildonnand. This name was originally confined to, as it still is the distinctive name of, the township where the church and manse were, at a very remote period, erected, and where they still stand ; and upon the division of the country into parishes, the name of the ancient church was used as that of the extensive tract of the county of Sutherland, now forming the parish of Kildonan* Many of the early monks and other ecclesiastics, who were .scatter* ed throughout Scotland after Dioclesian's persecution, appear to have penetrated into Sutherland, and hence, those places in which their cells and residences were fixed, have been distinguished by the prefix of Kil from Cella^'^ a cell or chapel, which is found in * Drawn up by George Sutherland Taylor, Esq. Golspie. f Almost all the words now used in the Gaelic languast connected with religious establishments, have been borrowed from the old monkish Latin used by the firtt Christian miaaionaries in the Highlands, to denote new offices and terms not previous- ly known. Thus the Gaelic of church is Eaglah, from the Latin EccUtia ; the Gaelic of Bbhop is Eatbi^f from Epitcoput ; the Gaelic of abbot is Abb, from 134 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. many of the names of places in Sutherland, as well as in other parts of Scotland, Thus Kildanan is derived from Kil, a cell, and Durun or Donauj the proper name of its original inhabitant, whose memory has been handed down by tradition, with great veneration, and who is distinguished as Saint Donan. The leading valley, and most important part of the parish, is, however, as frequently called Strath Helmsdale^ (disregarding the tautology of Strath and Dale,) as it is called the Strath of Kildonan ; but in Gaelic it is alone known by the name of Stra' Iligh^ while the river is called Aven-Iliffhj — and the village of Helmsdale, at the mouth of the river, Bun^Iligh^ — the root or lower end of the IligK All this strengthens the belief that the river Helmsdale is the " Hiusjlu' men" or river Hie of Ptolemy, who places that river on the present east coast of Sutherland, and close to " Verubium promontorium,^* which is unquestionably the Ord of Caithness. The name Hie is therefore older than that of Helmsdale, which must have been in* troduced, long subsequent to the time of Agricola, by the north« men, whose inroads and adventures on the coasts of Sutherland and Caithness, during the tenth, eleventh, and twelfth centuries, are so often narrated in the northern Sagas, and historically ar> ranged by Torfaeus. Kildonan^ again, is believed to have origi- nated dfter the settlement of Christian missionaries in the north of Scotland, and is, therefore, in all probability, of more recent origin than the name Helmsdale. Extent^ Boundaries^ and Topographical Appearances. — This pa- rish is altogether inland. It may be said to be divided by a great leading strath, into which other less important straths or mountain passes open ; and, accordingly, the former account of the parish states, that ^^ it resembles the form of a tree, stretching out at the top or height of the parish into branches." This is so far appli- cable, that the great and leading strath of Kildonan or Helmsdale, below the church, being in the centre of the narrowest and lowest corner of the parish, may be compared to the trunk of the tree, and the smaller straths or glens, called Tilny, Free, and Achnahow, opening into it at obtuse angles on the west side, and those of Suis- gill and Kinbrace on the east side, may not inaptly be considered as the side-branches. Kildonan is bounded on the east by part of the county of Caithness, having the picturesque and towering Abbot ; the Gaelic of priest is Sofforfy from Sacerdot ; and the Gaelic of a chapel, or the primitive resting place of a Christian missionary, was Cillf pronounced KU9 from CeUa^ a chapel or cellar. KILDONAN« 135 peaks of the Morven Hills, not far distant from the boundary in that direction. The north boundary of the parish of Loth, run- ning from the top of the ridge terminating in the Ord of Caithness, to the westward, and along the elevated summits of Ben-vallich, and the high range of hills to Craigaboddich, intervenes between Kildonan as its southern line of march, and the German Ocean, to which the nearest point of the parish is distant about two miles. On the west, the line of mountain tops from Craigaboddich, along the centre of the high table-land at the head of Skinsdale, to the great mountain Ben-Ormin, and thence to Cromolt, near the head of Strathnaver, separate Kildonan from the parishes of Clyne and Farr ; and on the north, an irregular march crossing the great Ballach between the valleys of Strathnaver and Kildonan, and thence going over the top of Ben Griam-beg, and the highest part of Knockfin, to the county of Caithness, divides the parish from part of Farr, and the southern part of the parish of Reay. The extreme length of the parish, either from Cromolt or the Balloch near Ben Griam, to the top of the Ord of Caithness, is fully 24 miles, in a direct line. The breadth varies considerably, being towards the south end of the parish from 5 to 10 miles, and to- wards the north end from 12 to 17 miles, in straight lines. The northern division of the parish is all elevated ground, and exposed to the unbroken sweep of every blast and storm that rage amidst the highest mountains of Sutherland and Caithness. The general aspect of this part of the parish is characterized by several high and massy mountains; some elevated table-land, of considerable ex- tent, thickly covered with heather and alpine plants ; and several lakes, of which four are of a large size ; but their shores and the country immediately surrounding them being in general tame, the expanse of their waters cannot be said to afford those enchant- ing and remarkable views for which other lakes in the Highlands, encircled by a wild variety of precipitous crags, towering pinnacles, and verdant glades, are so justly celebrated. The southern part of the parish may be said to consist of two parallel ranges of mountains, between which lies the very beautiful valley of Helms- dale or Kildonan. This valley, which extends throughout the whole length of the parish, varies in breadth from one and-a-half to three miles, between the bases of the steep sides of the strath. The river Helmsdale, a large and very handsome stream, which may be classed among the second rate rivers of Scotland, occupies the centre of the valley, and rolls down, with many graceful 136 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. curves in its course, amidst holms and haughs of the brightest verdure, and occasionally through birch*covered plats that partially conceal some of the bends and reaches of the stream, until it enters the German Ocean, at the thriving fishing village of Helmsdale^ which is situate in the adjoining parish of Loth. The highest mountains are at the boundaries of the adjoining parishes, and Ben Griam-more, one of these mountains, is nearly 2000 feet high. All the other lofty hills are deeply indented by headlong torrents^ which often transversely cut the highest ranges of the hills almost down to their bases, and thus form many wild chasms, and great and abrupt inequalities of the surface. A great proportion, how- ever, of the uplands is superior and safe pasture ground, with occa- sional large tracts of moss ; and the soil of the haughs, along the lower parts of the river Helmsdale, is formed of deposits of mossy earth, mixed with particles of decomposed conglomerate rock and sand. Meteorology. — Notwithstanding the inland situation and moun- tainous character of this parish, the climate in the valley of Kil- donan does not vary much from that of the coast-lying parishes of Sutherland ; but the extremes of cold and heat are perhaps greater than along the sea coast. In winter, the high parts of Kildonan are often visited with snow, when rain alone falls in the less inland districts ; and when there is a general and great fall of snow, it is heavier, and lies longer in the interior than on the coast. The winter storms are also of greater violence on the exposed high grounds, and are there generally most tempestuous and severe. Frost appears early in autumn, even in the sheltered strath, and frequently, at that period of the year, the dawn of day, which is accompanied by, and discloses a slight hoar frost, formed during the night-time, is followed by a brilliant meridian sun, which is op- pressive by its heat The east wind is the coldest, and with it the heaviest falls of rain occur. Of late years, the aurora borealis, or *' the merry dancers," as the meteor is called here, has been unusually frequent, chiefly from the month of July to January. It is often seen moving in upright luminous lines from west to east, which, when they attain their greatest brilliancy, suddenly become dim, and, as if formed of revolving columns, with alter- nate bright and dark sides, these shining lines again suddenly ap- pear with an irregular glimmer, which increases in silvery bright- ness, until it becomes a light of great splendour. This alternate fading and reappearing of these coruscations continues until what KILDONAN. 137 appear to be the revolving columns, disappear in the eastern ho* rizon^ under the earth's shade. This parish is particularly healthy, and there are no distem- pers which can be said to be prevalent among the inhabitants. Rheumatic pains sometimes affect aged people ; but these pro- bably arise from sudden changes from heat to cold, and from inattention to the due regulation of their clothing in the win- ter season. Fevers have been of late years unknown; and in 183^, when malignant cholera raged at Helmsdale, at the foot of the strath, and within nine miles of the church of Kildonan, no case of that mysterious and fatal disease occurred in the pa- rish. Consumption, ague, and cutaneous eruptions are all un- known. Apothecaries' drugs are almost never called for ; and the inhabitants generally, having a sufficiency of substantial food, com- fortable dwelling-houses, and being of temperate and active habits, enjoy uninterrupted health, and a buoyancy of spirits which gives promise of long life. Hydrography, — The river Helmsdale or Hie is the leading stream in the parish, through which it runs a course of upwards of twenty miles. It receives its waters from some lakes in the upper parts of the parish, and from many mountain-streams and torrents which swell its stream in all parts of its course. After leaving this parish, the river has a* run of more than two miles in the pa< rish of Loth, until it enters the sea at Helmsdale, where its mouth forms the harbour of that village. The upper district of Kildonan is remarkable for the number and size of its lakes. Loch-na-cuen is one of the largest of them, and is ornamented with two or three small islands, and several winding bays. It has char and other varieties of trout, but is considered rather an indifferent angling lake. Loch'leam-na^lavan lies between the two mountains, Ben Griam-more and Ben Griam-beg, and has trout of different va- rieties, of the largest size of any lake in th^ district. There are also a great many char in its waters, but they are of a small size. This is an excellent angling lake, particularly with a south wind. Loch Badanloch and Lochinruar are also large lakes, and abound in trout and char. Loch-ari-clinj/^ Loch-ascaig^ Lochan-ganuh^ Loch-altan-feam^ Loch-cor-na^maugh^ Loch-na^moin^ Loch-na- clar^ Loch Truderacaigj Loch Cuilliey and Loch Leiven^ are all likewise in the upper parts of the parish, and all abound with trout, and many of them with char ; but it is somewhat remarka- ble that pike have never been found in any of these lakes, nor, in- deed, in any of the numerous waters in the county of Sutherland. SUTHERLAND. K 138 SUTHEULANDSHIRE. Mineral springs rise in many parts of the parish ; but it is believ- ed that they are all chalybeate. There is one of superior quality at Achnamoin ; another near the manse; one at Caen; and one at the foot of Ben Uary. Geology. — The geology of this extensive parish has not been minutely examined or described. The mountain ranges are, it is believed, all primitive rocks, among which gneiss and mica- slate predominate, while rocks of syenite, porphyry, and large- granular granite, occur in many parts. Several years ago, a rounded piece of native gold, weighing rather more than half an ounce, was found in the bed of the Bum of Kildonan, a rapid mountain stream ; but although this discovery induced many other searches to be made among the loose gravel and pebbles in the bed of that and other adjoining streams, no additional particle of the precious metal has been found. Zoology. — The most elegant of all our native wild animals, the red-deer (Cervus Elaphusy) "destined to embellish the forest, and enliven the solitudes of nature," still ranges in many parts of this parish, which anciently formed part of the great deer forest of Dirrie Chatt This admired animal is now scarce in most parts of the Highlands; but amidst the solitary recesses of the great mountains, along the boundary lines of this parish, the red-deer, in considerable herds, still find protection^ and during the storms of winter, they traverse the lower parts of the parish, in search of food and shelter. Deer stalking has, of late years, been revived with great ardour in this district, and in the few other remote parts of the Highlands where the stag is now to be met with ; and the red-deer of Sutherland are the stateliest and fattest of their kind.* Since the extirpation of the wolf from this neighbourhood, which only occurred about 1 50 years ago, the fox has been the most ob- noxious wild animal in the parish. His wiles, however, have been of little avail to him since the introduction of sheep-farming ; for the united hostility of fox-hunters and shepherds has almost clear- ed the whole parish of foxes. The wild cat is occasionally met with, and is a particularly fierce and desperate animal ; so much so that it has been known to spring at an unarmed assailant, who could not instantly kill it, when excluded from other means of escape. The otter also frequents the numerous waters in the *' From the accounts that have been sent me from the various forests in Scot« land, I am inclined to think that the average weight of the best deer in Sutherland is superior to that of the other forests. It reaches about fifteen stone Dutch, linking the offal ; and stags are occasionally killed of seventeen stone ; and in the forest of Ben Hope, of a somewhat larger site.** Scrope's Art of Oeer Sulking, page 10. KlLDONAN. 139 parish, but he is by no means a stationary animal, and wanders over wide tracts of country, from one stream to another. The polecat, the weasel, the mountain hare, and the mole are like- wise met with. Sheep of the Cheviot kind, which equal in the quahty and weight of the fleece, and the value of the carcass, the Cheviot stocks from which they were originally ob- tained, occupy the whole pasture grounds of the parish ; and the shepherd's dog must not be omitted, for without this faithful and tractable animal, it would be impossible to conduct sheep-farming in the successful manner now done. The first of these dogs were obtained from the borders ; but there is now a cross between them and the country colley dog, which is more valuable than the pure breed, and excels the southern dog in sagacity and hardiness. Birds of prey are numerous. The common eagle {Falco albiciU /a), the raven (Corvus corax)^ the hooded-crow (Corvus comix), and some species of the hawk abound. The hills of Kildonan have ever been celebrated as among the best grouse ranges in the north. The strath is well stocked with black-cock, and the tops of the highest mountains with ptarmigan. I'he river Helmsdale has a valuable salmon-fishery, which is fished under the direct con- trol of the landlord, in a manner the best calculated, in all respects, to protect the spawning fish and the smolts, and which it is expect-^ ed will elicit, beyond doubt, the success of the liberal system had recourse to, over the former close and severe mode of fishing. The lakes, already referred to, abound in trout and char; and lamprey eels are said to ascend the river Helmsdale about the month of June. The fresh water muscle (Mytilus anatinus) is also found in the bed of the river Helmsdale. Botany. — The diversity of soil, and the different degrees of al- titude and shelter which this parish affords, cover its surface with a great variety of plants ; but these are all, with few exceptions, common to similar localities throughout the Highlands. The haughs and low parts of the strath are verdant with succulent herbs and the finer varieties of grasses ; and here the birch, the mountain-ash, the hazel, 'aspen, and white willow, ornament the banks of the river, and some of the sloping sides of the hills. The mosses have their peculiar plants, of which the cotton grass (Erio^ pJiorurn) is the most conspicuous and most valuable. The exten- sive mountain sides are chiefly covered with heather and ling ; and the few rare plants which have been observed are among the Al- pine tribe on the highest hills, of which Arbutus alpinoy and the cloudberry, fBubus cham^morusjj are the most abundant. A 140 SUTHEKLANDSHIRE. great part of the parish was at a remote j^eriod covered with forests of stately pines, which have all perished without any contemporary account existing of the c^use or manner of their destruction. Con- sequently, conflicting causes have been assigned for the total ab- sence of the native fir in this part of the Highlands ; but the ge- nerally received belief is, that the old trees died from natural decay when at maturity, their trunks being still dug out of the bogs in great numbers ; and that from the decomposition of their leaves and branches originated the growth of moss, which has now com- pletely altered the surface soil, and rendered it unfit for the growth of the pine tribe. II. — Civil Histohy. Some of the events and localities mentioned in the northern Sagas and in the Orcades of Torfaeus are supposed, from an at- tentive examination of the narratives, to apply to this parish. There exists ample evidence, that after the final departure of the northern invaders, the whole of this parish was part of the ancient earldom of Sutherland ; and consequently, the annals of that po- tent family embrace the subsequent historical events in the parish, several of which are described in Sir Robert Gordon's History of the Earls of Sutherland. The charter-room of Dunrobin Castle, — which is believed to have the most complete series of title-deeds and other invaluable muniments, from the thirteenth century to the present time, of any private charter-chest in Scotland,— contains written evidences, the most authentic, of the general correctness of that remarkable local history, in regard to the state of pos- session of the lands in the parish at diflerent periods, and similar facts. In the sixteenth century, the chiefs and a great body of the clan Gun settled in this parish, which, since then, until a late pe- riod, has been their chief place of residence ; and, as no connected account of them has ever been written, the following original no- tice of the clan Gun, prepared with great care from the only au- thentic sources relating to them that now exist, is here given in as condensed a form as the matter would admit of, — in order to suit the prescribed limits of this parish report. The Clan Guru — The clan Gun have at all times been coniSi- dered throughout the North Highlands as descended from the Norwegian Kings of Man ; and Lochlin^ the Gaelic name for an- cient Scandinavia, or, perhaps, in a more limited acceptation, for Denmark, is still named bj the few natives of the Highlands who w recollect the traditions of their fathers, — as the parent coun^^ of the Guns, the Macleods and the Gillanders. According KILDONAN. 141 to the Chronicle of Man, published with Camden's Britannia in ] 586, Godred or Godfred, sumamed Crovauy and son of Harold the Blacky of the royal family of Norway, was the first King of Man, and his sovereignty appears to have extended over a large portion, if not the whole, of the Western Isles. His reign is sup- posed to have commenced about the year 1077. The fifth King of Man, from Godfred the first King, and descended from him, was Olave, who, succeeding his father when very young, was de- prived of his kingdom by a natural brother named Reginald, and had the Island of Lewis assigned to him. After severe and pro- tracted struggles, Olave succeeded in recovering his kingdom, and died King of Man in Peel Castle, 18th June 1237. He had been thrice married, and by his third wife, Christina, daughter of Farquhar Earl of Ross, King Olave had three sons : 1. Guin or Gun, the ancestor of the clan Gun ; 2. Leoid, Loyd, or -Leod, from whom are descended the Macleods; and 3. Leaundris, from whom were the clan Landers, or Gillanders of Ross-shire,^ — but many of this last clan afterwards assumed the name of Ross. At this period, the Earls of Ross were very powerful in the north of Scotland ; and, besides being masters of the present district of Ross, they held extensive tracts of country in several parts of the west coast, and along the Caithness shores. The three grand- children above-named, .of Farquhar Earl of Ross, appear to have been provided for by that potent earl about the middle of the thirteenth century ; — Guin or Gun having been settled in Caith- ness, where the Earl's authority at that period was considerable. Leod obtained Glenelg from him, and by marriage with the daughter of a Danish knight, Macraild Armine, also obtained Miginish, Bracadale, Durinish, Dunvegan, Lindell, Vaterness, and part of Troterness, in the Isle of Sky ; while Leander settled in the midst of his grandfather's territories in Ross. The particular lands in Caithness which were originally acquired by the clan Gun cannot, at this distant period of time, be satis- factorily traced ; but the earliest castle or stronghold of their chief in that quarter, was the Castle of Halbury, at Easter Clythe, or as it is often called Crowner GurCs Castle, which, like almost all the other old castles in Caithness, was situate on a precipitous and nearly detached rock, overhanging the sea, and, except at one side, surrounded by it. The clan Gun continued to extend and occupy their possessions in Caithness, until about the middle of the fifteenth century, when, in consequence of their deadly feuds with the Keiths of Caithnes"* 142 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. (who had obtained a settlement in that county, by the marriage of one of the Keiths with Marion Cheyne, a Caithness heiress, in the fourteenth century) and other neighbouring clans, the Guns found it necessary to establish their chief, and a strong detachment of the clan, in the adjoining county of Sutherland, where they obtained the protection of the Earls of Sutherland, and from them got possession of several lands in the parish of Kildonan and else- where. The history of the clan during these early centuries, as collected from tradition, and partly borne out by detached narra- tives in Sir Robert Gordon's history, is replete with incidents, which, in the present age, have more of the character of wild ro- mance than of reality, and exhibits, in many startling details, the ferocity and implacable fury which distinguished the feuds of the clans in the remote Highlands,* even down to near the close of the seventeenth century. This report does not admit of length- ened narratives of these ancient feuds ; but one instance may be given of the desperate manner in which they were conducted, by very briefly narrating the best traditional account that has been obtained of the following bloody and treacherous rencounter be- tween the Keiths and the Guns. The meeting of the parties, and the slaughter of the Guns, are, by Sir Robert Gordon, stated to have taken place in St Tyr'^s Chapel, — an old religious edifice on the sea coast of Caithness, and on the walls of which he says the blood of the slain might be seen in his time ; — but the tradi- tion of the Highlands says that this perfidious affair occurred in the interior of the country, and in the open air, in Strathmore of Caithness. Towards the end of the fifteenth century, the chief of the Clan- Gun was George Gun, who lived in feudal dignity in his then im- pregnable castle of Halbury; but he was better known as the Croumer Guriy or, as he was called by the Highlanders, — " N*m Braistach^more" from a great broach which he wore as the badge or cognizance of his oflice of crowner. He had a deadly feud with the chief of the Keiths, and having met in St Tyre's chapel for the purpose of effecting a reconciliation, but without success, they there solemnly agreed to decide their quarrel, if they could not do so amicably on a future day, by equal combat between twelve sons * Sir Robert Gordon, whose history was written in 1630, thus alludes to << the inveterat deidlie feud betuein the clan Gun and the Slaight-ean- Aberigh,** (a branch of the Mackays). He remarks : ** The long, the many, the horrible en- counters which happened between these two trybcs, with the bloodshed and infinit spoils committed in every pairt of the diocy of Cattcynes by them and iheir associats, aio of so disordered and troublesome memorie," that he passes them over. — P. 174. KILDONAN. 143 or relatives of each chieftain. This compact was concluded by mutual vows, accompanied with religious rites within the chapel» that the meeting would take place in a solitary part of the country, where no interruption could occur, and the escort of each leader was fixed at twelve armed horsemen. The crowner had been twice married, and had a numerous family of sons ; but some of them resided in Sutherland, and it was also agreed that he should form his party there, and proceed into Caithness with them by the Strathmore route, while the Keiths would move, on the appoint- ed day, towards the confines of Sutherland, and in the same di- rection ; so that the two parties would meet in a retired dis- trict, remote from any chance of being disturbed. The chiefs, each followed by twelve horses and their riders, came within sight of each other on the appointed route, and soon tliereafter met at a bum called Alt-na-gawn, below the glut of Strathmore. The crowner and the leader of the Keiths approached each other in full armour ; but it was soon discovered by the Guns, that there were two riders on every horse in the party of the Keiths, and consequent- ly the latter party had twenty-four men opposed to the twelve fol- lowers of the crowner. This vile stratagem instantly revealed to the Guns that their destruction, by unfair means, was determined upon. They scorned, notwithstanding the great odds against them, to retreat before their enemies the Keiths ; and both parties dis- mounting, the huge double-handed sword, and other formidable weapons of the period used in close combat^ were furiously and destructively wielded, amidst horrid imprecations, and remorseless vows of each clan's never-dying vengeance, which raised to mad- ness the rage of the combatants. The Guns fought most desperately, but could not withstand the great odds that opposed them ; and after a long continu- ed struggle, the survivors on both sides were so much exhaust- ed, that the combat was mutually dropt, — the Keiths being so far the victors as to leave the field with their banner display- ed, and to be able to carry with them their slain companions ; while in the ranks of the Guns, the crowner and seven of his party were killed, and the remaining five were all severely wounded. The Keiths proceeded to Dilred Castle, in Strathmore, then oc- cupied by Sutherland of Dilred, where they were hospitably en- tertained. The five surviving Guns, who were all sons of the crowner, also retired, but tarried at another stream, since then call- ed Alt-Torquil, after Torquil Gun, one of the survivors, who there dressed the wounds of his brothers. Towards evening, Henry- 144 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. beg, the youngest of the surviving brothers of the Guns, proposed that they should follow the Keiths, and endeavour to obtain revenge, even by stratagem such as the Keiths had recourse to ; but his brothers considered such a step as leading to their certain destruc- tion. Henry, however, could not be restrained from his purpose, and swore that he never would rest until he should kill a Keith, and recover possession of his father's sword, helmet, shirt of mail, and broach of office, which the Keiths had taken off the dead body of the crowner. Two of the brothers were so severely wounded that they could not move to any great distance, but the other two accompanied Henry, who arrived at Dilred Castle soon after nightfall. On approaching the castle, its wooden windows or shutters were found open, and around a large 6re in the low- est apartment, the survivors of the Keiths w*ere quaffing bumpers of ale, and Henry, who went close to one of the windows, heard them narrate, with boisterous delight, the losses sustained by the Guns. The chief of the Keiths, not apprehensive of any danger, accidentally approached the window where Henry stood, and the latter then bent his bow, and in another instant his arrow pierced the chieftain's heart; Henry at the same time boldly accompany- ing the deadly flight of his arrow with the exclamation (afterwards used in the North Highlands as a proverb) of " The Gun's com- pliments to Keith." * The old chief dropped down dead ; a panic seized the other Keiths ; and the three Guns, having darted for- ward to the door of the castle, slew some of the 6rst persons who ventured out by it ; but finding that they could not retain their po- sition long, Henry and his two brothers retired silently under co- ver of the darkness of the night, and hurried back to the assistance of the other brothers, who had been unable to accompany them. The crowner, f thus killed by the Keith, was, according to Sir Robert Gordon, " a great commander in Catteynes in his tyme, and wes one of the greatest men in that countrey; because when he flourished there was no Earle ofi* Catteynes ; that earldom being yit in the King's hands, and wes thereafter given to William Sinck- * This tradition was obtained in Gaelic, and Henry's cxclarration of** lomachgnr n*Guinach gu Kaigh,** is more emphatic in that language than in any translation of the words. f Crownefy Croxntare, Crounal^ according to Dr Jamieson, was first an officer to whom it belonged to attach all persons, agsdnst whom there was an accusation in matters pertaining to the Crown ; and the distinction between the office of crowner and that of sheriff was anciently thus explained : ** All attachments pcrteines to the Cfwvner, quher the accuser makes mention, in his accusation, of the breaking of the King's peace. Otherwaies, gif he makes na mention thereof, the attachment pertcnes to the shircf/' 2dly, the crowner was he who had the charge of the troops raised in one county. The first certain proof of the existence of the office of crowner occurs in the reign of David II. KILDONAN. 145 ler, the second son of William, Earl of Orkney, by his second wife : which William, Earl of Catteynes, wes slain at Flowden.'* * The Earldom of Caithness, at the period here referred to, may be said to have been, in one respect, in the King's hands ; for although^ after the termination of the Norwegian line of Earls of Orkney and Caithness in 1331, the Earl of Strathern was also Earl of Caithness for a short time ; the succeeding Earls of the Sinclair family claimed the Caithness title, while they also held the Earl- dom of Orkney under the kings of Denmark, and their allegiance to a foreign power divested them of their privileges as Earls of Caithness under the Crown of Scotland. This state of matters, no doubt, occasioned the establishment of a crownership in Caithness, which office was vested in the person of the chief of the Guns, who was afterwards killed by the Keiths. Five of the crowner*s sons survived him. The eldest, James, from whom the patronymic of MacKeamish^ the son of James^ is derived, which distinguished his sou and all the subsequent chiefs of the clan, succeeded his father, and resided in Sutherland, as all his successors have done, their principal dwelling-house hav- ing been at Killernan, in the parish of Kildonan, until it was de- stroyed accidentally by fire, about the year 1690. From one of the sons of the crowner, named William, are descended the Wil- sons of Caithness, and from Henry, the Hendersons. Another son, Robert, who was killed with his father, left issue, and from them were the Gun Robsons, who afterwards appear in the annals of Caithness, and from the issue of another son, John, also killed by the Keiths, were the Guns M^Ekns of Caithness. It was in the time of this crowner Gun that Hugh Macdonald of Sleat, third son of Alexander Earl of Ross, married a lady of the clan Gun, who is supposed to have been the crowner's daugh- ter. By this lady, Macdonald of Sleatf " had a son, Donald, called Gallach, from being fostered X by his mother's relations in * Sir Robert Gordon*s History, page 92. t Gregory *s Western Highlands and Isles, P^^gc ^* X The fostering of the children of great families, in remote but comparatively se- cure parts of the interior of the Highlands, was a very common practice in the north of Scotland, down to the beginning of the last century ; and the alliance or affection- ate tie thus formed often proved to be stronger than that flowing from blood -relation- ship. Sir R. Gordon refers to this result in another case of fostering among the clan Gunn. He says, ** In the moneth of December, 1622 yeirs. Sir John Sinclair of Greinland and Ratter, (the Earle of Catteynes, his brother,) died in Catteynes. He was a great favourer of the Clan- Gun, with whom he had been fostered and bred in his infdncie, which is accompted the strictest poynt of amitie and friendship among all the Hielanders of the kingdome of Scotland, preferring oftentymcs their fosters and foster -brethren unto their parents, and neircst kinred ; they will follow and de- 146 SUTHERLANDSHIUE. Caithness, who afterwards became the heir of the family, and from whom the present Lord Macdonald is descended." James Gun was succeeded as chieftain by his son William, with whom originated the patronymic of Mackeamishy i. e. the son of James. William, the first Mackeamish, signalized himself in several conflicts in the north, and his fame as a successful and brave leader of his clan, has been celebrated in some Gaelic verses and songs still existing. Alexander Gun of Killernan was the se- cond, and his son William Gun, the third Mackeamish. John Gun of Killernan and Navidale was the fourth, and Alexander Gun, also of the same designation, was the fifth Mackeamish. This last chief had two sons, Donald and George, and was suc- ceeded bv his eldest son Donald, who was the sixth Mackeamish. Alexander Gun, the son of Donald, was the seventh, and Alex- ander's son, William Gun, the eighth Mackeamish ; but this last chief, who was an officer in the army, being killed in action in India, without leaving issue, and the other male descendants of Donald, the sixth Mackeamish, being extinct, the chieftainship de- volved on the now deceased Hector Gunn,* the great-grandson of Greorge, the second son of Alexander, the fifth Mackeamish, to whom he was served as nearest male heir on Slst May 1803 ; and George Gunn, Esq., Rhives, in Sutherland, the only son of the said Hector Gunn, is now the chief of the clan Gunn, and the tenth Mackeamish. Land-Otoner. — His Grace the Duke of Sutherland is proprie- tor of the whole parish, which has been part of the ancient Earl- dom of Sutherland from the earliest time to which the national records go back. Antiquities. — There are the remains of several circular or Pict- ish towers in this parish, which have outlasted in their great anti- quity, all traditionary accounts that may have once existed in re- gard to their erection, their uses, or history. f There are also pend upon them befor their natural lords and masters.'* Seyeral formal agreements for the fostering of children are still preserved in the north ; and the foster.fkther, as well as the father of the child, makes a gift of cattle, which, with their whole increase, were to be kept as the property of the foster-child, until he arriyed at man*s estate. * The name Gun had been, until the middle of last century, spelt with one n, but since then, a second n has been added, in order to distinguish the name from the word ffuttf a musket,—- a comparatively modem word, which has slid into the English lan- guage, in a manner which puzzles all etymologists. The name Gun appears to have been the same as the Welsh Gwyrie^ and the name Gawne, still common in the Isle of Man. f lliese Pictish towers seem to have been more numerous in the principal straths in Sutherland, than in any other district of Scotland ; and the writer of this report has visited the ruins of 65 of them in that county. There are some others whicli he KILDONAN. 147 many barrows or tumuli scattered over the parish ; and in one not far from the manse, which was opened by workmen in search of gra- ▼el, a coffin formed of plain flags was discovered, in which were mouldermg human bones. One of these tumuli, in the shape of a well-proportioned cone, and called Knock* nreachy^ is situate close to the manse, and also an upright stone called Clachna-heudh. III. — Population. In the year 1801, 1440 1811, 1574 1821, 565 1831, 257 The decrease is accounted for by the change that occurred in the rural economy of the parish, by the substitution of Cheviot sheep for Highland cattle, between the years 181 1 and 1821. The sys- tem of small holdings and subletting, previously common in the parish, was thereby altered ; and no part of the parish being adapt- ed for new settlements, the bulk of the population was settled in the coast-side parishes ; and, in particular, they resorted to the village of Helmsdale and its neighbourhood, which is within two miles of the southern boundary of the parish, forming part of the same district of country, and where the increase of the population far exceeds the decrease in the interior. IV. — Industry. Almost the whole of the parish is occupied as sheep farms. The number of sheep grazed, all of the Cheviot breed, is esti- mated at 18,000 head, and they are divided among six tenants of separate farms. V. — Parochial Economy. Helmsdale is the nearest town, distant two miles from the south boundary of the parish, and nine miles from the manse and church. There is a good road leading from Helmsdale, along the whole extent of the strath, to Bighouse and Melvich, on the north coast ;. and another road from within one mile of the manse, running southward across the Crask ; a stormy and elevated hill dividing the strath from the head of Glen Loth, until it joins the parlia- mentary road on the east coast of the county at Loth-beg. has not yet seen ; and he is inclined to think, that a complete inspection of the whole of them, and accurate details of each tower, so far as their ruinous condition will ad- mit of, including not only their size, and interior arrangements, and their situation in regard to marked localities, and their vicinity in some cases to each other ; but also erery deviation from any part of their peculiar, and generally uniform construction, would, in some degree, remove the obscurity that at present attends the contempla- tion of these interesting relics of the oldest stone buildings in our native land, and which, when complete, must have exhibited, in singular combination, the ingenuity of design, and laborious industry of a people somewhat advanced in the arts of civili- sation, with the rudeness of workmanship peculiar to savage life. 148 SUTUEULANDSUIRE. Ecclesiastical State. — By Bishop Gilbert Murray's charter, i/i- ter 1222 and 1245, reconstituting the chapter of the bishopric of Caithness, which included the whole county of Sutherland, the chapter consisted of nine canons, of whom five were dignitaries. The Abbot of Scone was appointed one of the abbots, and had the church of " Keldurunach" assigned to him, under the provision, that when absent, he would have another to minister for him. The Abbots of Scone continued in charge of this church until the Reformation ; and the foundation of " Tea'n Abb," or the Ab- bott's House is still seen to the west of the manse, while the fi- gure of a human head, rudely carved in stone, and called the Jb- bofs Headf is preserved in the garden wall of the manse. The patronage of the parish has, since the Reformation, been vested in the Sutherland family. The extent of the glebe is between 13 and 14 acres, and the minister has besides the grazing of 60 sheep. The former stipend of 40 bolls of victual is now converted, and paid by the heritor with the former money stipend of L. 30, lOs. Id. ; and there is also an addition of L. 70 from Exchequer. The manse is in good repair, and the church is suitable for the congre- gation ; the whole inhabitants of the parish being of the church of Scotland. Education. — The parish school is situate near the manse, but, owing to the great extent of the parish, many families are prevent- ed from sending their children to it Several private teachers, however, are employed, and exclusively paid by the inhabitants ; and the parental duty of providing for the education of youth ap- pears, in this parish, to acquire strength in proportion to the diffi- culties to be overcome in exercising it. The amount of the pa- rochial schoolmaster's salary is the minimum. Poor. — The few indigent persons in this parish are treated with kindness by their more independent and fortunate neighbours ; and the easy access they all have to fuel, and the non-exactment of rent for their small houses, make the moderate allowances from the poor funds which they receive of far more value to them, than the same sums would be in more densely inhabited parishes. These funds are derived from Sunday collections, and an annual donation from the Sutherland family. The average number of poor of all classes for the years 1835, 1836, and 1837, is 42; average amount of church collections during these years, L.9 ; average amount of mortifications, &c. during these years, L.4. February 1840. PARISH OF CLYNE.* PRESBYTERY OF DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. GEORGE MACKAY, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The etymology of the name of this parish is not cor- rectly known ; and though there are various conjectures on this point, not one of them seems in any degree satisfactory. Extent and Boundaries. — The 6gure of the parish is irregular; in length it extends from the east coast of the county into the in- terior to the summit of Ben Ormin, a distance of about 24 miles from south-east to north-west; its breadth on the coast side is 4 miles, and varies from 6 to 8 miles inland. It is bounded on the south-west by the parish of Golspie ; on the west by Rogart ; on the north by Kildonan ; on the north-east by Loth, and on the south-east by the German ocean. Topographical Appearances. — The interior is in many parts very picturesque, being distinguished from the more tame scenery along the coast, by a variety of mountains, glens, and lakes, and adorned by natural and planted woods. The prospect is much ad- mired, when entering the glen at Killean. The Carrol Rock, an abrupt precipice overhanging Loch Brora, — Ben Clibrig, Ben Or- min, and Ben Horn, at once break on the view, which, with the reflection in the lake of the rock of Carrol, and the sloping sides of the hills covered with plantations and natural woods, present a singular and magnificent panorama. About nine miles from the coast. Strath Brora divides into two valleys of a still more upland character, at a place called Ascoile. The one to the left is skirted with many clumps and a few exten- sive ranges of natural wood ; and the other valley, or rather glen, to the north is wild and deep. At this point also, the parish assumes a more sterile and Highland aspect, being of a bleak and heathy character, with extensive ranges of moors and moss, intersected by • Drawn up by George Gunn, Esq. of Rhives. 150 SUTHERLANDSHIRK. nviinerous small rivulets ; and still more inland, several lofty hills, forming part of the high and stormy centre range of Sutherland mountains, mark the boundaries of the parish to the west and north. Greatly different from this elevated district, the low grounds of the parish along the sea-coast contain well-cultivated farms, sur- rounded by several townships occupied by small tenants, and com- posed of neat stone cottages, — these farms connected together by excellent and well kept roads, which intersect the cultivated parts of the parish in all directions. The elevation of two of the highest mountains above the level of the sea, as ascertained by measure- ment, is as follows, — Ben Ormin 2306 feet; Ben Horn 1712 feet. The only cave deserving notice is a small one of peculiar con- struction above the Bridge of Brora ; it seems to have been form- ed by the action of the water on a soft portion of the rock, before the river became imbedded in its present low level. The coast is low and sandy, and has a breadth of sand hills ex- tending about a quarter of a mile from the shore, and covered with bent, and where not broken, with rich pasture. This sandy belt is succeeded by the arable land occupied by the letters or small tenants, and the fine farms of Inver Brora and Clynelish ; and be- hind them are the hills of the interior division. Temperature. — Along the sea coast, the weather is the same as in the neighbouring parishes, with the exception, perhaps, of the parish of Golspie, which is better sheltered by plantations, and not so exposed to storms from the mountains in the centre of the CQunty as the low grounds of this parish are, when the wind blows down the opening of Strath Brora. The north-west gales blow with great force down this strath, the high hills on each side form- ing a natural funnel, and the blasts spread along the low grounds, often causing much injury to the crops. The soil being of a light, sharp, gravelly quality, occasional long droughts materially affect vegetation ; but it revives rapidly on being refreshed by the copious showers, which seldom fail to come in time to save it. The climate may be considered on the whole excellent, of which the healthy appearance and the longevity of the people furnish the best demonstration. The prevailing winds are east or north-east, west or south-west. The east wind is sometimes damp, cold, and penetrating, and the west wind excessively violent. H^droffraphi/.^Loch Brora is the principal sheet of water in the parish. It is about four miles long, and varies from a quarter to half-a-mile in breadth, being contracted at two points, and has CLYNE. 151 the appearance of three lakes when seen from a short distance. Extensive fir plantations on each side, with the bold precipitous Carrol rock, and the mansion-house and offices of Kilcalmkill, form a beautiful and interesting scene in fine weather. There is a small island near the lower end of Loch Brora, of which Sir Robert Gordon says, in his History of the Earldom of Sutherland, that " the Erie of Southerland hes a delectable ha- bitation, and pleasant for hunting of red-deer and roes in the woods on both sides of the loch. This island is distant thrie or four myles from the burgh of Broray." Among the smaller lakes. Loch Tubernach, north of Clyne church, and the source of the Clyne Milton Burn, was, at one time, famous for large trout of superior flavour ; but they have fallen off in quality, of late years. The river Brora has its source in the forest of Ben Clibrig, and, passing through a part of Rogart, it enters this parish about two miles above Sciberscross, and joins the Black Water a mile below that place. This latter river rises in Ben Ormin, and runs through a long extent of deep moors, which give a dark tinge to the water, and from which it no doubt derives its name. It receives several tributaries in its course, and runs down a deep rocky channel for about five miles before its junction with the Brora, when the united streams flow through rich meadows for half-a-mile, and fall into Loch Brora. There is a cascade on the Black Water, near Balnakyle, very magnificent when the river is in flood ; and another still more strik- ing and romantic at Kilcalmkill, which is visited by most tourists ; also a cascade well worthy of notice on a small burn near the manse of Clyne, where the water falls into a deep ravine over a rock sixty feet. high. Geology and Mineralogy. — Sir Humphry Davy, when he visit- ed this county in 1812, left a manuscript at Dunrobin Castle, de- scribing the mineral productions of part of Sutherland, wherein he stated, with reference to this parish, " that the secondary rocks occupy but a small space, and are probably incumbent on the red sandstone or breccia ; that they occur in regular strata, but their arrangement is very much disturbed. They appear to have been originally deposited or formed parallel to the horizon ; but in most places, this parallelism has been disturbed either by the subsidence or elevation of parts of the strata, so that there are frequent faults or abruptions of the different rocks, which have given to the diffe- rent parts of the strata different inclinations. 152 {^UTHERLANDSHIRC. ^^ The true secondary strata of Sutherland occupy an extent of six or seven miles, filling up a sort of basin between the transition hills in the neighbourhood of Dunrobin, and those in' the parish of Loth. The upper stratum is a sandstone of different degrees of hardness, and composed of silicious sand, cemented by silicious matter. Below this, occurs an aluminous shale, containing pyri- tous matter, carbonaceous matter, the remains of marine animals, and of land vegetables. Beneath this shale, or rather alternating with it, a stratum occurs, containing, in some of its parts, calcare- ous matter, and passing into limestone; but in general consisting of a silicious isand, agglutinated by calcareous cement The coal measures occupy the lowest part of this secondary district which has been explored." Coal had been worked near the mouth of the River Brora so far back as 1573, in the time of Lady Jane Gordon, Countess of Sutherland, and at various subsequent periods; but that work was labandoned many years ago. The late Duke of Sutherland, with the munificence which characterized all his improvements, expended L. 16,000 in sinking a new pit, and for the necessary buildings, on the north side of the river, half a mile above the bridge, where a scam was found from 3 feet 2 inches to 3 feet 8 inches thick, at a depth of 250 feet from the surface. The coal was conveyed to the harbour on a railway 800 yards in length. Four large salt-pans were also erected, which cost L.3327, and the salt produced proved of very superior quality. Limestone is found in small detached portions in various places on the banks of the River Brora, from the harbour upwards. It contains no magnesian earth, and is adulterated only with alumi- nous and silicious earths, and oxide of iron. A specimen of it was examined by Sir Humphry Davy, from a rock about 100 yards above the Weir: 20 grains contained 17.3 grains of carbo- nate of lime.* Zoology. — The animals of this parish are common to most other parts of the county. They are, the red-deer, roe, fox, wild-cat, polecat, martin, and the stoat or weasel, which becomes white in winter, the lesser brown stoat, the brown otter, mole, common mouse, field-mouse, lesser field-mouse, Alpine hare, common hare, common gray rabbit, Muscovy rat. At no distant period, it was the general belief that rats could not exist in the county, and Suther- * We understand more detailed accounts of the geology of this parish than that given ahove, have been laid before the Werner ian Society by Professor Jameson, and by Messrs Murchison and Sedgwick before the Geological Society. 4 CLYNE. 153 land earth was frequently taken to other countries, under the im- pression of its efficacy in driving them from any place where the earth might be deposited. But a vessel being wrecked near Kin- tradwell about thirty years ago, dispelled the cl^lusion, and intro- duced the Muscovy rat, which has since multiplied, and spread in every direction. The red-deer have become very numerous since the plantations on the banks of Loch Brora have grown up to af> ford them cover and shelter. Some of these noble animals attain a great size, and are often seen congregated in herds. Lord Francis Egerton killed one of the stags at this place in 1838, which weighed upwards of eighteen stones Dutch weight; and it is believed that some of them are now much larger. The foxes and other animals of prey were at one time very destructive to stock ; but the farmers entered into an association and hired fox-hunters, by whose exertions they were nearly extirpated ; at least they were so much thinned, as not again to become very formidable. One hundred and 6fty different kinds of birds frequent the pa^ rish, the most remarkable of which are, the white-tailed eagle, ring tailed eagle, peregrine falcon, buzzard, hawk,, wild swan, wild goose, blackcock, grouse, ptarmigan. The fishes in Loch Brora are, salmon, grilse, salmon trout, char, common trout. The salmon begin to ascend the river in condition to spawn about the middle of August; the grilse a fort- night later. They begin to spawn about the 1st of October, and descend as kelts or spent fish in February. The smelts go down' in March, continuing to do so till the end of May. The grilses commence their ascent in May, varying it from the beginning till the end of the month, according as the season maybe early or late. The fishes caught on the shores are, cod, ling, haddock, skate, turbot, halibut, flounder, whiting, mackerel, mullets, millers, gur- nards. The shell-fish are, lobsters, partons or crabs. IL — Civil History. Sir Robert Gordon's Genealogical History of the Earldom of Sutherland, of which there is an old manuscript copy in the libra- ry at Dunrobin Castle, contains many notices of this parish, but chiefly descriptive of the ancient feuds and combats which used to distract the country at that period, and is too voluminous to be in- serted here. The chief historical event of importance which has taken place since the publication of the former report, is the change in the oc- .cupation-of the parish, by the removal of the small tenants from the SUTHIiRLAND. L 154 SUTHERLANOSHIBE. interior to the coast side, and which, with its consequences on the comforts and habits of the inhabitants, will be noticed hereafter. A correct map of the county of Sutherland, on a scale of one inch to a mile, wa? completed a few years since at the expense of the late Duke of Sutherland ; from which it appears that the sur- face of this parish contains 103 square miles, or G5,000 acres im* perial measure. The Duke of Sutherland is sole land-owner of the parish. The property of Kilcalmhill, which belonged for about 300 years to the Gordons of Carrol, a highly respectable family connected with the Gordon branch of the Earls of Sutherland, was purchased by the late Duke about thirty years ago ; also detached portions of the estate of Uppat, lying in Clyne ; the place of Uppat, afterwards purchased by his Grace, being in the parish of Golspie. Parochial Registers, — There is no trace of any parochial regis- ter being kept farther'back than the year 1706, and even for some time thereafter the strictest accuracy has not been observed. Antiquities. — This parish is not remartcable formuch that deserves the notice of the antiquarian, and the few scattered remnants that can be traced are greatly dilapidated. Castle Cole^ one of those towers once so common in the north, is, however, worthy of particular notice. It is perhaps the most entire of what are called Pictish towers, in this part of Scotland, excepting that of Dornadilla, in Strathmore, in the parish of Durness. It is situated on the east side of the Black Water, about two miles above its junction with the Brora, and must have been held an impregnable place of de- fence in its day. The opposite bank is a precipice of 70 feet The river running rapidly over a rocky channel, renders it inacces- sible on three sides, and the narrow neck which connects it with the east bank seems to have been protected by a ditch. The building is oblong ; the walls 11 feet thick, without lime or mortar ; the diameter inside 22 feet ; the only part of the walls now stand- ing is on the south and east sides, about 12 feet high ; the door, 5 feet high, 3 feet wide, is in this part of the building facing the south. There is a space in the wall, on the cast side of this entrance, which can be traced round the building, and its height would on- ly admit of people to lie or creep in it. This tower must have been the stronghold of the chieftain or of the tribe ; and the remains of a line of watch-towers, to give warning of any hostile approach, may still be traced to the coast. Craig Bar, on the south side of Loch Brora, is thus noticed in the former Statistical Report. " It is a steep and rocky precipice, CLYNE. 155 fortified with a ditch of circumvallation, every way inaccessible, but by a narrow neck of land between it and a neighbouring hill; it contains about eight acres of land, and could be easily defended against any number of assailants." An ancient cemetery at Kil- calmkill, marks where the heroes of those davs rest. The srave of the chief, in which large human bones were found, is yet distin- guished by four stones and a cover. Various tumuli lie scattered over the interior, marking their battle-grounds, and where the slain were buried ; but their names and their deeds have passed into oblivion. The next object of antiquity is an artificial island in Loch Bro- ra, already alluded to, and which has been correctly described as below, in a note to Jhe former Report.* III. — POPULATJON. The popnlation of the parish has varied little since the year 1792, owing to the change which has taken place in the system of farming, the glens and interior being converted into sheep-walks ; the inhabitants being removed to the sea coast, and some of them having emigrated to North America. The coal-works com- menced in 1812, and caused a considerable increase of the popu- lation, which appeared by the census taken in 1821 ; and as they ceased to be worked in 1828, the number decreased previous to the next census in 1831. By tbe census taken m 1702, the population was 16G0 1801, . . 1643 1811, . . 1639 1821, . . 1874 laSl, . 1711 1840, . 1756 • " Tlie figure of the island is an oblong square, consisting of two inferior squa'^cs of 70 feet diameter. It was dividend into two parts ; one-half appropriated for lodgings in time of war ; the other lialf laid out for the advantage of a garden. TI19 walls are still pretty high, and ascend perpendicularly from the surface of the water, without a vestige uf the island behind them, and are only accessible by two stairs which front the south and east; so that with plenty of stores and the fishing of the loch, abounding with silmon, trout, and eel, the place was rendered impregnable when properly defended. Among many reports of tbe good purposes of this island, there is one traditionary story repeated with pleasure by the inhabitants to this day. They tell that, on a certain occasion, the neighbourhood was suddenly invaded by a numerous army of Caithness men, which they were not prepared to resist. Upon this occasion they fled to the island for an asylum, where they were secure from the assaults of the enemy. Upon this, the invaders were so enraged, that they attempted darning up the narrow mouth of the loch, at which the river breaks out, and had made such pro* gress in the work, that the islanders were obliged to take to their boats in the night time, to accomplish their escape ; but, l>eing pursued, they would have all perished, had it not been for the seasonable assistance of the clan Gun, who had marched from Strathulie upon hearing of the danger of their countrymen. The Caithness-men, in consequence of tliis assistance, met with a total defeat ; and the part of the river or loch, at which they had been employed, retains 10 this day the name of Daman or Davan, which signifies a dam." 156 SUTHERLAND8HIRE* The number of families in the parish is 385, and they may be distinguished as follows : Male heads of fiiinilies, . . 255 Female heads of families, . . . 130 885 Bachelors above 50 years of age, . 7 Unmarried women above 50 years of age, . 99 Insane males, • . • '0 Insane females, . ... 5 Males under 15 years, - , . 293 Females under 15 years, . . 282 Males betwixt 15 and 90 years, . 175 Females betwixt 15 and 90 years, . 219 Males betwixt 90 and 50 years, 149 Females betwixt 90 and 50 years, . . 180 Males betwixt 50 and 70 years, 115 Females betwixt 50 and 70 years, . 196 Males upwards of 70 years, . . 47 Females upwards of 70 years, . . 55 The language usually spoken among the labouring classes is Gaelic ; but, owing to the more general intercourse with the south country, and the increase of education, it has certainly lost ground since the date of the former report, and, as m'ost of the young peo- ple now attend school and receive at least the rudiments of educa- tion, it bids fair to be altogether unknown at no very distant pe- riod.- The inhabitants of this parish do not devote much of their time to popular games and amusements ; and the few remnanU; of the merry olden times are fast passing from among them. The bag- pipe is never heard except at weddings, and on Christmas and New- Year's Days. Their only game is the shinny y which they play with spirit during the holidays, and they then lay their clubs aside till the return of the same period next year. There is no- thing distinctive in their habits, appearance, or personal qualities. They intermarry with the inhabitants of the other parishes on the coast-side ; and, consequently, form one community of the same ge- neral quality and customs. Their habits are cleanly, and their style of dress, when prepared for church on Sunday, is not surpassed by that of any assembled congregation of the same class of people in the south country. Straw bonnets are becoming general ; and no young damsel is seen without a neatly made cap, her hair taste- fully braided, and her dress formed after the latest imported fashion. A great change this, from the time when they were clad in coarse, homespun, woollen stuff, and little regard was paid to appearance or cleanliness. Though the peasantry cannot procure the same quantity of ani- mal (ood, and of the produce of the dairy, as when they lived in clvne\ l.ot llie interior and occupied a greater extent of land, they enjoy in general «in abundant and varied supply at all seasons of the year. There is no family without some land, and few but keep one or more cows and a pig. Their lots of land supply potatoes, some meal, and other necessaries. The more industrious secure a store of herrings and other fish ; purchase some sheep or a cow, and kill a pig for winter food. Therefore, it may confidently be said, that; on the whole, they enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the comforts and advantages of society ; and their cheerful industrious habits are the best criterion of their being contented with their situation and cir- cumstances. They have acquired, in common with the people of the country, a taste for evangelical preaching, and cherish a warm attachment towards the Established Church. No Dissenting preacher has attempted to gain a footing in the parish ; and it would be in vain, so long as the present able and zealous minister continues to pos- sess the confidence and affections of his people. There is neither a professed Dissenter nor Roman Catholic in the parish ; and, what may seem extraordinary, there is not one of the latter per- suasion among the natives of the county, in a population of 26,000 souls. Though the country people are but little educated, they will soon discover an error in doctrine, and can quote scripture in support of their arguments with surprising readiness and accuracy. They are not fanatical nor given to prejudice, if directed by a clergyman whom they respect ; and a mutual esteem and attach- ment is soon established betwixt the pastor and his flock, such as is described in the early and purer days of our church. The poor here are more numerous in proportion to the popula- tion than in the adjoining parishes of Loth and Golspie, and the inhabitants generally are not in such good circumstances as in these parishes, which is thus accounted for: — when the tenantswere removed from the interior of the country to the coast-side, the poor belonging to this and other parts of the estate, and those who were unable or unwilling to occupy and improve lots of land, settled in the vicinity of the coal-pits, where they were insured abundance of fuel, without pay or trouble ; and living among men in the regular receipt of high wages, they were sure to obtain a share of these earn* ings ; but when the works ceased, they enjoyed no such advan- tages, and, being thrown on their own resources, they soon became a burden on the community. On the other hand, the people of Loth are enriched by the herring-fishing, and the high price paid 4bS SlJTHEIiLANDSHIRE. for their labour in the rapidly rising village of Helmsdale. Gol- spie is a community of tradesmen, labourers, and fishers, kept in constant employment by the establishments of Dunrobin, and of the neighbourinor extensive arable farms. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — This parish contains 65,000 square acres, of which a very small portion indeed is under cultivation ; the rest being generally high and irreclaimable hill-pasture. It is not easy to state with accuracy the extent of land in tillage, but it cannot be under 1400 acres imperial measure, three-fourths of which has been trenched from the barren waste by the settlers from the hills, and what was formerly under the plough greatly improved. There being 385 families, and as these occupy from one to four acres, we may safely fix the extent possessed by the cottars on an ave- rage at nearly two acres each, making in round numbers 730, ex- clusive of the following principal farms : — Clynelish, 235; Inver- Brorn, 210; East Brora, 75; Kilcalmkill, 60; Clynekirkton and Glebe, 40; Clynemilton, 33; Achrimsdale Park, 17-— total 1400. The six farms here enumerated have comfortable dwelling-houses and cthinking are exchanged for a sharp- sigh tedness in looking after their little secular interests. It is impossible that circumstances which have thus operated on their intellectual^character, should not also aflect their morals and religious feelings. They have done so, though not so greatly as might be expected ; and it is saying much to their credit, that there is so little amount of crime, and so much security for person and property. There were never but two from this parish tried at a justiciary court, one not a native, and the other only for a breach of trust. The people are kind and peace- able, patient undbr adversity, submissive to laws, and respectful to authorities. They possess a good deal of religious knowledge, and much veneration for religious ordinances and usages. It is rare now to find one who cannot repeat the Shorter Catechism, and the writer knows not that such a thing exists among the na- tive peasantry as a family without the daily worship of God. Many among them are decided Christians. The generality, it is to be feared, rest satisfied, however, with acquiring vague ideas, and en- gaging in empty forms; while it is matter of painful experience that the downward earthly tendency of their thoughts, induced so much by poverty, has a fearful eflect in deadening their minds to religious impressions. It is manifest, also, that intercourse with the ungodly when south, and at the herring-fishing in Caithness, together with the desecration of the Lord's day by travellers from other places, (a sin till lately happily unknown), are very injurious to their morals and religious sentiments. Laziness is no longer characteristic of the people. They are alive to the advantages of industry. In proof of which many of them annually go south, be- cause so little encouragement is given them at home. Poaching is unknown, and smuggling has been effectually put down through the exertions of the proprietor. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of imperial acres in cultivation is about 1000. It may safely be said, that three times this num- ber might be added with a profitable application of capital. There are 200 acres of plantation, and fully 500 acres under na- TONGUE. 179 tural wood. The extent of the latter is not easily ascertained, from the irregular manner in which it is disposed. RenL — The real rental of the parish is L. 2282, ISs. lid., of which letters pay L. 757, lis. dd. ; and large fiirmers L. 1525, 2s. dd« The average rent of arable land per acre is L. 1. Wages. — Tradesmen are allowed 2s. a-day, and day-labourers Is. 6d. in summer, and Is. in winter. The raw produce which is offered for sale is trifling. Those who do sell, are regulated by market-prices. Very superior Cheviot sheep are reared upon the targe farms, which are highly esteemed, and fetch high prices in the southern markets. The small tenants rear the black-faced breed, or more generally a cross between it and the Cheviot. From want of full feeding, their pasture being limited and generally overstocked, both their sheep and their cattle are stinted in their growth. A real High - land pony can now seldom be seen. The system of farming upon the crofts is decidedly bad. The tenants, besides endeavouring to keep more cattle than they can properly feed, employ a rota- tion of potatoes, bear, and oats, by which the land, thus constant- ly cropped, is so exhausted, that in many places the force of manure cannot now make it yield an adequate return. Besides, it is seldom properly drained or fenced, so that in winter it is commonly very wet, and injured by the poaching of cattle. As a proof of the deteriorating effects of this system of husbandry, it may be mentioned, that while the land cultivated by the largo farmers will yield on an average seven returns in grain crops, the small tenants seldom obtain above four returns of bear, and as to oats, they do not calculate upon more than double the seed. The potato crop is that alone which gives a really remunerating return. The large farmers have leases of nineteen years' duration. Small tenants have only one year's tenure of their land, which is certainly a discouragement to them in improving their lots. Quarries. — The only quarries that have been wrought are on the Melness, or west side of the Bay of Tongue, a flag quarry at Portvasgo, and a slate quarry at Talmine. Both are of tho mica-slate formation. They have been wrought to a considerable extent, and have been found very useful for several country pur- poses. The expense of quarrying, however, is too great to make this a profitable trade, or to admit of much export, and according- ly it has of late been almost discontinued. i^wAeriM.— There is a salmon-fishing upon the water of Borgie, 180 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. where on an average 2000 fish are caught yearly. The herrings tishery is that which has been carried on most extensively in the parish. At one time it promised to be profitable ; of late, how- ever, it has turned out a ruinous speculation, as the annexed ac* counts will show. In 1833, boaU fishing, 30— barrels cured, 3538 — average per boat, 118 }QS5, do. 64 do. 6304 do. 984 1839, do. 68 do. 1425 do. 21 1840, do. 68 do. 1233 do. 18 Raw Produce, — Produce of grain of all kinds, . « - L. 84^ potatoes and turnips, - - - 1939 meadow and cultivated hay, ... 500 land in pasture, rating at Ids. per cow, and at 2s. 6d. per ewe or full-grown sheep, - - - - 3080 gardens, .... . 140 thinnings of woods and plantations, - - - 60 fisheries, sea and river, ... 1300 quarries, • - - - .20 miscellaneous produce, viz. fuel, sea-weed, and cockles, - - 541 L. 11,030 Manufactures. — From twenty to thirty tons of kelp were annually manufactured in this parish until 1832; but since then, as its place has been supplied by cheaper substitutes, the price has suffered such a depression as to render it no object for employing labour- ers. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — There is no market-town in the pa- rish ; the nearest is Thurso, in the county of Caithness, distant forty-five miles. There is a post-oflRce in the village of Tongue, and mails run three times a-week to Thurso, and twice a-week to Golspie. There is also a post to Durness, whose days of arriving and starting correspond to those of the Golspie mail. The vehi- cle from Golspie carries three passengers ; that from Thurso car- ries four inside and four outside. A lighter vehicle, however, runs on this latter line during winter, which only acconimodates five passen- gers. The length of roads in the parish is d9| miles. Of these, 1 1 are Parliamentary, 14| county trust roads, and 14 private tenantry roads. They are kept in excellent repair. The bay of Tongue is crossed by a ferry 1262 yards broad. In 1830-31, slip quays were built, and proper boats procured. This ferry, which is a great annoyance to travellers, might be shortened to a fourth of its present breadth, by constructing a mound between the point of Tongue, and the island adjacent thereto. As the water here is not very deep, nor the current strong, and as profusion of mate- 4 _ TONGUE. 181 rials lie ready at band, it is believed by many that such an under- taking would not be very expensive. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is so situated as to be nearly equidistant from the several extremities of the parish. There are, however, two populous districts on either side of it, so remote, that few of the people can attend public worship. The Skerray district to the east, which contains a population of 630, is from seven to eleven miles distant from the church. The Melness dis- trict to the west, with a population of 690, is from four to eight miles distant, separated, moreover, by the arm of the sea, the crossing of which is always expensive and often impracticable. Each of these stand much in need of the labours of a resident minister. Mel- ness forms the chief part of a mission connected with part of the parish of Durness. The missionary is supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge ; and a church and manse were built by the late Duchess- Countess of Sutherland* The parish church was built in 1680, — was nearly rebuilt in 1731, and repaired 1778. A few years ago, new doors were put in, and some of the pews a little improved. • It is seated for 520^ being just suflBcient accommodation for the proportion of the peo- ple who can conveniently attend. There are no seat rents. The pews were originally purchased by the parishioners, and continue the property of their descendants while they remain in the parish. In winter, when the people are all at home, the church is well fill- ed, and the people are diligent in attending the catechetical mi- nistrations of their pastor. There is one catechist chosen by the people, and supported chiefly by a small salary from the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. The number of elders are eleven, and of male heads of families in communion with the church 45. Collections are annually made for the General As- sembly's five schemes, and occasionally for other objects. There are no Dissenters, Seceders, Episcopalians, or Roman Catholics in the parish. The manse was built in 1787, and has never got a thorough repair ; a new substantial house is, however, to be commenced ear- ly this season, having been already contracted for. The stipend is L.150, with an allowance for communion elements. When the present incumbent entered on the charge, the glebe was of little value ; the hill-grazing was a share of an undivided common, and the little arable land was rig about with adjoining tenants. An excambion being obtained, and quantity given for quality, improve- 182 SUTHERLANDSHIRE* fl ments have since been carried on at great expense, and now the glebe might probably fetch a rent of L.50 per annum. Education, — At present there are three schools in the parish ; the parochial, and two supported by the Educational Committee of the General Assembly. One of the Assembly's schools is at Skerray, the other at Melness. Last year there were three schools besides, — two supported by private subscription, which, for seve- ral causes, have since been suppressed, — the third was a Gaelic school, granted by the Gaelic School Society, which has been discontinued by the managers, though only two years in operation^ and particularly useful. When the schools were examined last spring, there were nearly 400 children in attendance. The schools at present in existence are efficiently conducted. The com- mon branches of education are taught in them all. The paro- chial teacher is qualified to teach mathematics, Latin, Greek, and French, but there are very few now who prosecute these stu- dies. His accommodation as to school-room, dwelling-house, ,and garden, is excellent. His salary is the maximum, but fees itre ill paid. The people in general are more alive now to the benefits of education than they have been, though still there is vast room for improvement. Irregularity in attendance, and want of proper school-books, from inability to buy them, are serious drawbacks to the proficiency of the scholars. There is one part of the Mel- ness side where an additional school is decidedly required. It is removed at a considerable distance from the place where the As- sembly school is situated, and is separated by a large rivulet, which, from want of a bridge, is, for the most part, impassable in winter. Were a school got for this locality, upwards of forty chil- dren might attend it. Literature, — Two years ago, a subscription library and a read- ing club were set on foot, through the strenuous and praiseworthy exertions of Mr Horsburgh, the local factor. The members of the library exceed 1 00. These, however, do not all belong to this pa- rish. Every member on admission pays 5s., and 2s. 6d. of yearly contribution. The number of volumes already amount to 455, consisting of a choice selection of books in theology, history, poetry, travels, memoirs, &c Many of them are donations re- ceived by Mr Horsburgh from his acquaintances in the south, and sent by others who have taken an interest in this promising insti« tution. The gentlemen of the club purchase new standard works, and, instead of exposing them to sale at the year's end, they gra- TONGUE. 183 iuitously transfer them to the library, and thus, while the country people generally are benefited by them, the members of the dub, who are all likewise members of the library, have still access to them. This plan since its adoption has been warmly commended. The noble family of Sutherland are so satisfied of its value that they resolve to patronize it Th6 Duke and Duchess, their Com- missioner, and the Member of Parliament for the county, have se- verally requested to be admitted members of both library and club, and each propose making a handsome donation to the former. The donation of the Duchess, consisting of 32 volumes, has been already received. Savings Banks, — There is a branch in this parish of the Su- therland iSavings Bank, established in 18d4>, by the advice and under the direction of Mr Loch, M. P., Commissioner to the Duke of Sutherland. It extends over the whole county, and is divided into three general branches, which again are subdivided according to the parishes. The deposits and drawings in this parish since its commencement, are as follows : From February 1834, to 31st July 1834, do. 1835, do. 1835, do. 1836, do. 1836, do. 1^*37, do. 1837. do. 1838, do. 1838, do 1839, do. 1839, do. 1840, do. 1840, L 907 11 9 L.461 15 9 The number of depositors at present is 35, composed chiefly of tradesmen, servants, and junior members of families. Four per cent, interest is given for sums under L.20. When the amount exceeds this sum, only 2 per cent, is allowed. Poor, — The average number of paupers for the last six years is 70. The funds for their relief are distributed yearly, and, as these are variable, the sum allotted to each cannot be permanent. The distributions to the different paupers range generally from 2s. to lOs., according to their peculiar circumstances. Church col- lections and an annual donation of L.6 from the Duke of Suther- land, which, united, amount on an average to L. 24, constitute the sole fund for their relief, at the disposal of the session. From this sum there are to be deducted small salaries for the kirk-ofiicer and session-clerk, and disbursements for assisting in the burial of those who die quite destitute. It is thus evident that the poor are mainly indebted for their support, not to the session funds, but Deposits. Drawings. L.151 11 5 112 11 4 L. 23 17 5 182 18 5 65 16 8 89 3 . 77 5 11 80 15 4 132 14 2 103 14 1 105 3 1 187 11 56 15 6 184 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. to the every-day charities and kind offices of relatives and neigh- bours. Yet, trifling as the sum given by the session is, the de- mands on them are increasing, and it is not considered now nearly so degrading to receive their ^id as it was a few years ago. Besides those upon the poor's roll, there are a few who receive permanent charity in meal or otherwise, to the annual value of L.14, Is. 3d., granted originally by the late Duchess -Countess of Sutherland, and continued by his Grace the present Duke of Sutherland. Her Grace's kindness to aged widows and to re- spectable persons in reduced circumstances, was very considerate, and a most commendable trait in her character. It deserves to be noticed that, in 1837, a season of great scarcity in the Highlands, she gave meal to the poor of the parish to the value of about L.60, and supplied the small tenants with a great quantity at the purchase price, — the arrears of which have lately been remitted, amounting to about L. 200. The object of putting this meal to the accounts of the tenants was, not so much the expectation of ever realizing the money, as the desire that they should not feel themselves therein treated as paupers. Inns. — There are only two houses licensed to sell spirits. One of these is a neat comfortable inn in the village of Tongue, which was considered a large house when built twenty years ago, though now it is frequently found deficient in the necessary accommoda- tions. Fuel. — Peat is the fuel commonly used by all classes. From its long continued and rapidly increasing consumption, the labour and expense of procuring it is now very great; and the more com- fortable inhabitants seem resolved to purchase coal in future, as- sured that it will be -found less expensive. Free access to peat, however, is a mighty privilege to the common people, as it costs them nothing but their personal labour. Miscellaneous Observations. Many changes have taken place in the parish, since the former Account was drawn up. The first and most important is the in- troduction of sheep- farming. The character of this change will be variously estimated, as persons are disposed to look at one or other of its effects. That it has rendered this country more valu- able to proprietors cannot be questioned, — for certain it is, that in no other way could a great part of it be laid out to such advan- tage ; though it may fairly be questioned whether, by extending it too far, they have not injured themselves. If, however, we are to TONGUE. 186 estimate this system by its bearing on the former occupiers of the soil, and by the circumstances into which it has brought their chil- dren, no friend of humanity can regard it but with the most pain- ful feelings. When introduced here, several hundreds, many of them of a grade quite superior to mere peasants, were driven from their beloved homes, where they and their fathers enjoyed peace and plenty. Some wandered to Caithness', others sought an asy- lum in the woods of America, but most, clinging with a passion to their native soil, located themselves by permission in hamlets near the shore. In these places the land, already occupied by a few, but now divided among many, was totally inadequate to the main- tenance of all, and iishing became their necessary resource. And thus, on a tempestuous coast, with no harbours but such as na- ture provided, and in a country inaccessible, from want of roads, to enterprising curers, were these people often necessitated to plunge into debt for providing fishing materials, and to en- counter dangers, immensely increased by their unavoidable igno- rance of navigation, in order to obtain subsistence and defray their rents. The consequences were such as might be expected. Po« verty soon overtook them, tending to keep alive their lacerated feelings, and rents, which became gradually extravagant, accumu- lated into a mass of arrears. While such was the condition of the people, the proprietor, un- der whose management these changes were effected, found him- self under the necessity of selling the inheritance of his fathers, and the late Duke of Sutherland became sole proprietor of the parish. This truly patriotic nobleman, fully alive to the evils which beset his new people, and the wants of this country, reduced the rents of the small tenants 30 per cent., and commenced a series of improven^ents, by opening up the country with excellent roads, at an enormous expense, and inducing public vehicles to run in se- veral directions ; by which, at once work was afforded for the people, and a stimulus given for a time to the herring-fishing.* Like- wise, with the laudable object of rendering the tenantry more com- fortable, they were enjoined about the same time to build new houses, all being upon the same plan ; and, encouraged by the prospect of work, they soon set about this undertaking, though the houses were upon a scale far too expensive for their slender means. * These iroprorcmenta were conducted by Mr John Horsburgh, late local factor, whose businesB ulents, sterling integrity, faithfulness to his employers, and attach- ment to the people and the country, rendered him one of the most judicious and po- pular of fiictors. SUTHERLAND. N 186 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. In the meantime, the lamented death of the proprietor put a stop to improvements, and many of the people were, by the building of these very houses, more deeply than before plunged into debt. From this cause, from the failure of the fishing, and from a series of adverse seasons, arrears again accumulated to a great amount Upon the accession of the present Duke of Sutherland, his at- tention was arrested by this evil ; and, persuaded that, to reclaim these arrears, was impossible, without ruining his people, he deter- mined to cancel the whole. In this parish, the arrears for rent alone amounted to L.1582. This deed of princely generosity has not failed to make a suitable impression upon a people strongly susceptible of gratitude, and deserves to have a prominent place assigned it in any public account of the parish. After such con* duct, every one must feel that his Grace has the interest of his people deeply at heart. That their interest, however, may be really secured, it is absolutely necessary to open up for them sources of industry, to encourage such as are desirous to improve, and to ' introduce a different system of agriculture from the present among the small tenants. Some of the large farms are susceptible of being extensively and profitably cultivated ; but the farmers, from the amount of capital they have already at stake, and from the shortness of their leases, in which there are no extensive improving conditions, are prevented from cultivating as they might, and as some feel in<* clined ; and the people are deprived of much work which they might otherwise have. And certainly it would be more satisfac- tory to see our labourers thus employed at home, than going to the south, where their morals are endangered ; where their ex- penses eat up a great proportion of their earnings ; and where, very frequently, they are disabled for a length of time by diseases caught in the wretched lodging-houses, to which they must have recourse, and whence they often carry infection to their native country. As to the agriculture of the small tenants, wretched as it is at present, it is capable of great improvement. The foundation of the evils now attending both it and them, is not the amount of rent, but the smallness of the crofts. This it is which debars a proper rotation, and which causes rents to be ill paid. And though, by the concurrence of favourable circumstances, and a powerful stimulus to the feelings, calling forth uncommon exer- tion on the part of the tenants, the rents may be defrayed once TONGUE. 187 or twice, this cannot be expected to continue. For it must be evident, that when a people, depending mainly on the land for their sustenance, cannot be supported thereby more than seven or eight months, (which is the case in most seasons with the tenantry of this parish), they must expend whatever little money may be collected in different ways, in providing the staff of life during the remainder of the year. Were, however, the crofls of the tenants enlarged to twice their present size, and fenced in, so .as to admit of a proper rotation, then they would be adequate to their main* tenance ; and the sale of cattle, decently fed, would enable them with ease to pay a full rent ; whilst the produce of any day labour would, as it cerUiinly should, be at their own disposal. Now, there is scarcely a hamlet in the parish in which the arable land might not be doubled. That the people themselves, who have only one year's tenure of their land, and who can only liquidate their debts by work, for which they are paid in cash, should im- prove so extensively, is not to be expected. If done at all, the proprietor must pay them for their labour until a crop is efficiently laid down ; then a rent may be exacted, which would bring in a handsome interest on the outlay. There are many families, however, in great destitution, who have at present no land ; who could not, therefore, be benefited by the foregoing plan. Were sources of industry opened up, some of these might thereby be supported. But the most satis- factory method of disposing of these would be, to locate them in villages at the several fishing-stations ; to build commodious har- bours ; to encourage enterprising curers to settle among them ; and to secure a market for every species of fish : and thus, while the former depended wholly on the land, these should be made to depend wholly on the sea. Though the herring might occa- sionally fail, vast quantities of other fish could be caught on the coast, which are at present never brought to market ; and, as there is a probability that a steamer will soon ply on this coast from Caithness to Liverpool, a great inducement is held out to prosecute this trade with vigour. By this communication, all the exports of the country could obtain a ready market in the south. In conclusion, the writer expresses his full conviction, the re- sult of long observation, and many anxious thoughts on the sub- ject, that unless such, or some such plans are adopted regarding the interesting peasantry of his parish, the time will soon arrive when there will be no alternative but emigration, at the expense 188 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. either of landlord or Government ; a poor law assessment, or, worse than either, a summary and universal ejection. Yet, rely- ing on the wealth and patriotic feelings of the Noble proprietor, and on the skill and intelligence of his agenU, he confidently ex- pects that these sore evils will be prevented, and that the next Statistical Account will have to record an improvement in the as- pect of the parish, and an amelioration in the condition of the people, which will be alike profitable and honourable to all par- ties. January 184K PARISH OF LOTH.* PRESBTTBRY OF DORNOCH, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. DONALD ROSS, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish appears to have taken its name from the farm on which the church stands, now known as Loth-more, to distinguish it from the neighbouring farm of Loth-beg. Until the beginning of the seventeenth century, these two farms border- ed upon two lakes, which were formed by the river of the Glen of Loth being retarded in its progress to the sea, and hemmed in, in hollow spaces of the low flat grounds, by a rocky eminence that runs parallel to the sea shore. A new course for the river was cut in a direct line to the sea, and through the solid rock, at the above period ; and since that alteration, the spaces occupied by the lakes have been converted into rich arable land, although the extent and banks of the lakes can still be traced. The present name of Lotkf which in Gaelic is still pronounced Z^A, is, therefore, be- lieved to be a corruption of the word Lochj which, in the Scotch dialect, is descriptive of a sheet of water, in the same sense as the word in old German signified, — namely, apertura^ hiatus^ or cavitas rotunda ; or, as Cambden has it, ^^ a place where rivers are stop^ ped.*' This etymology also agrees with the spelling of the name in ancient writings; and thus, in a Crown charter of the year 1451, the present Loth-more, — the site of the church and * Drawn up by George Sutherland Taylor, Esq. Golspie. LOTH. 189 manse, — is called ^' Ville de Esiirlochj** the same being situated to the eastward of Loth-beg. The glen, also, through which the river of Loth flows is, in old writings, called ** the Glen of hoih," and not Glen^Lathj as it is now most frequently named ; thereby denoting that the glen was an appendage to the farm of Loth, iiffitead of having a descriptive or distinct name of its own. It may be added, however, as a remarkable fact connected with this name, that Ptolemy places the Loffi along the sea coast, of which the south boundary of the present parish of Loth forms a part ; the Ila Jlumen (the river Ullie or Helmsdale) being in their country, which seemed to extend between Veriibiumproman^ torium (the Ord of Caithness) and Ripa alta^ (the Ardross range of mountains towards Tarbetness). And Richard of Cirencester, in his description of Caledonia, assigns the same locality to the Logiy and says, after naming the Cantce, and Promontorium Pe- noxuUumf (the high ground of the present Oykill,) '' Huic ordine proximus est Jluvius Abona (the Dornoch Frith) ejusdemque ac- eolae Logi. Hinc Ila fluvius," &c. Boundaries^ Extent, Topographical Appearances. — The parish extends in a straight line from west to east, about eleven miles in length; and its breadth, where broadest, from Ben-Uarie to the sea, is about five miles. The boundary line, if taken at the sea shore at the Bay of Kintradwell, proceeds northward to the top of KoUieben, and thence along a ridge of high hills, and in a half-circular sweep, by west and north, to the top of Ben-Uarie, (1923 feet high,) and then eastward by the sum- mit of the. high ground between the Strath of Kildonan and the glen of Loth, and, intersecting the top of the Crask, on to Ben Veallich, (1888 feet high,) and to the top of Knock Elderaboll ; thence, down to the plane of the Strath of Kildonan and the river Helmsdale, at a point about three miles above the mouth of that river. Thereafter, following the river downwards for about one mile, the march ascends the east side of the valley, and, running nearly parallel with the tine of sea coast, and at a distance of about two miles from it, terminates to the north of the Hill of the Ord, at the march with the county of Caithness. From this last point to the sea, the boundary between Sutherland and Caithness forms also the eastern boundary of the parish, and runs southward to the steep front of the Ord at the sea, and is marked out by a low turf wall, erected about thirty-five years ago, when this part of the march between the two counties, as to which there existed some 190 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. differences, was finally adjusted and fixed by arbitration. From the Ord to the Bay of Kintradwell, the sea shore is the southern boundary. The parish of Loth is therefore bounded on the west by the parish of Clyne ; on the north by the parish of Kildonan ; on the east by the parish of Latheron ; and on th6 south by the German Ocean, or rather by that part of it distinguished as the Moray Frith, which is here about forty miles broad. The whole length of the parish along its northern boundary is dis- tinguished by a ridge of high hills, which slope down towards the south with a steep descent, except at the contracted opening form- ed by the Strath of Kildonan, where the inarch crosses the low grounds of the valley from the summits of the hills that enclose it. This lofty range is placed nearly parallel with the line of sea coast which limits the parish to the south, and at a distance of from one to three miles from it ; the intervening space between the hills and the sea being either gently sloping ground, partially .cgultivated, and otherwise yielding sound natural pasture; or a le- vel flat of rich alluvial soil, all arable, and in a high state of culti- vation ; but at the eastern extremity of the parish, the huge head- land of the Ord leaves no intermediate space between the moun- tain and the sea, but forms a sheer and abrupt wall, rising with great majesty from, and towering above, the ever-heaving and deep sea, whose only strand, at the lowest tides, is the perpendicular face of the rock. This headland of the Ord* has been at all times an object of great interest to strangers; and before the present Parliamentary road from Sutherland into Caithness was formed, in the year 1811, the path — for it did not deserve the name of a road — along the * The oldest name of the Ord, with the exception of Veruhium promonioriutn of Ptolemy, to be found in ancient writings, is Mons Mound, which appears in the cu- rious geographical fragment headed " De Situ Albaniee," and which has been attri- buted to Andrew Bishop of Caithness, who died in 1 185. He divides Scotland into seven parts, and, no doubt, aUuding to the Diocesg of Caithness, which included the counties of Sutherland and Caithness, says : ^*- Septima enim pars est Cathane^ia citra montem et ultra montcm ; quid ^fon8 Mound dividit Cathanesiam per medium.** In the geographical collections in the Advocates* Library, called Macfarlane*8 MSS., several references arc also made to the Ord. Thus: *^ All that tract of land which lies betwixt Port.nacouter (the Dornoch Frith) and Dungsbay, (Duncansbay head,) was of old called Cattey. That part of it which lies eastward from the hill Ord was named Catteyncss, and afterwards Cathness, the Promontory of Cattey. That on this side the Ord, was called simply Cattey, and afterwards, for distinction's sake. South Cattey and Sutherland, which to this day, in the language of the natives and Highlanders, retains the name of Cattey, as the Sutherland men were called Catteigh, and the Earl of Sutherland Morvar Cattey.** And again,— ^' Sutherland is separat- ed and divided from Catteyness by the brook or stripe called Aldituver, (should be Ault-in-uder,) and by the hill called Ord or Mond, with a range of other hills which do stretch from the south sea to the north ocean.'* LOTH. 191 outer edge of the rock, and without any protection from the pre- cipice that overhangs the sea, could not, with any degree of safe- ty, be passed in stormy weather, and never failed to inspire indi- viduals not accustomed to such passes, with great dread ; and among other travellers of the last century who describe the ter- rors of the passage across the Ord, the Rev. John Brand, in his Description of Orkney, Shetland, and Caithness in the year 1701, says, " The Ord which divideth Caithness from Sutherland is a high mountain, as the name Ord, which in Irish signifieth an height, doth imply, down which our way from Caithness to Sutherland doth lie. The road is but narrow, and the descent steep, and if any stumble thereupon, they are in hazard of falling down a pre- cipice into the sea at the bottom of the rock, which is very terrible to behold ; but who pass it for the more security, use to lead their liorses to the foot of the hill, which is about a short mile in length, and no other way there is from Sutherland to Caithness, or from Caithness to Sutherland, but this, except we go 12 miles about" The Glen of Loth is a narrow opening of about three miles in extent, surrounded by the highest hills in the parish, and is one of those wild glens, characteristic of a Highland district, which the superstition of former ages invested with traditional tales of wonder and terror. The glen, at the foot of an abrupt and prominent hill called Drumderg, was the scene of a bloody conflict between the men of Strathnaver and those of Loth in the sixteenth cen- tury ; and it possesses several objects to which the traditions of the country have given celebrity. Thus, a large cairn, called Cairn-Bran^ marks the place where Ossian's dog Bran is said to have died, and been buried. At Caim-in-uag^ an ancient hunt- ing-house stood. Tober Massan is the name of a well of excel- lent water, which, in former ages, was resorted to as a specific for almost all diseases, provided silver or gold was left in the water for the officiating priest Clach Mac-meas is a huge upright stone, which a precocious youth, at the tender age of one month, in that interesting period of the world's history, when " giants of mighty bone and bold emprise," dwelt in the land, hurled to the bottom of the glen from the top of Ben-Uarie. Carriken-^ligk are four stone pillars on an elevated barrow, that point out the resting-place of some leading men of a remote period ; and con- nected with this glen, and forming the very close and singular sides of a small burn that runs into it, are the lofty cliffs called Craig- Boddich and Craig- Bhokie^ remarkable not only for their 192 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. towering and perpendicular height, but for the very narrow space that separates them.* The arable portion of the parish, between the hills along its northern boundary and the sea, is generally flat, and its naturally rich and fertile soil is well cultiyated. The ravines formed by mountain streams, which intersect the south side of the hills at distances of two or three miles, are striking features in the land- scape ; particularly one of them, AuUkolliej which is a remarkably deep, tortuous, and romantic gully. The sea coast is, with the exception of a few low rocky headlands, sandy and shallow, from the western extremity of the parish to Port- Grower; and thence to the Ord, the shore is one continued line of rock or rough gravel ; but no part of the coast affords any natural protection for shipping. Meteorology. — The changes of the atmosphere have not been registered or ascertained by continued observations in this parish. The complete range of high hills that forms the northern and eastern boundaries of the parish, affords great shelter from the cold and piercing winter, and spring winds from these quarters ; and consequently, during the prevalence of such winds, the greater mildness of the atmosphere in this parish, compared with that along the more exposed sea coast on the Caithness side of the Ord, is often remarked by persons travelling between the two counties. The opening of the Strath of Kildonan at Helmsdale may be an exception to this remark, for there the wind, when high and coming down from the strath, is felt with peculiar violence. The parish is decidedly healthy, and instances of longevity are common ; and at present, a small tenant and his wife, whose ages are not correctly known, have been united in marriage for the long period of eighty years. There are no distempers peculiar to the parish ; but in 1832, Asiatic cholera appeared very suddenly, and for the first time north of Aberdeen, at Helmsdale, during the busiest period of the herring fishery, and in that town and neighbourhood between thirty and forty persons died of it This mysterious disease was believed to have been introduced into the parish by some fishermen who then arrived at Helmsdale from the«Frith of Forth, where the disease was raging at the time ; and it is certain that the first person who was seized with it in the pa- rish, was a female while in the act of washing clothes, belonging to * The writer of Uiis report furnished notices of the forest traditions connected with the Glen of Loth for Mr Scrope*8 Art of Deer Stalking, which are inserted ra that work. 3 LOTH. 193 one of the fishermen who came from an infected quarter near £ dinburgh. Hydrography. — The Moray Frith, the uEstuarium Vararis of Ptolemy, and the Breidafiord of the Northern sagas, is here a wide and stormy sea, without any islands. The projecting and bhiff headland of the Ord affects the currents along the shore ; and these currents, in the opinion of many practical fishermen, in- fluence and direct the progress and course of those shoals of her- rings which annually visit this coast ; and hence, a continuance of the success which has attended the herring fishery at Helmsdale, since it has been regularly prosecuted there, may be found to rest on more certain and durable causes than are generally supposed to exist The saltness of the sea water off the Ord has been analyzed, and it has been ascertained to be much greater than that of water taken at Tarbartness, at the opening of the Dornoch Frith ; while the water at the latter point contains about double the quantity of salt found in water taken within the Frith, between the towns of Dornoch and Tain. There are now no lakes within the parish,'and the only rivers are those of the Glen of Loth and the Helmsdale, which last flows for about three miles along or within the parish, before it enters the sea at Helmsdale. The Helmsdale is a large and handsome stream ; but, having had no bridge across it until 1811, it retarded travel- lers ; and Pennant, in his tour in the northern counties in 1769, records, that he had to *^ ford the very dangerous water of Helms- dale, rapid and full of great stones." Geology. — The high hills of the parish present a steep front to the south, and are of primary formation, being composed of por- phyritic granite, chiefly of a brown colour, but often reddish and sometimes gray. This stone is fragile, and, as it cannot be quar- ried in large blocks, or formed into well-proportioned shapes, it is of little use for building. This stone is also distinguished by different degrees of coarseness in its grains, and by the pre- sence of veins of a large size. Thus, in the bed of the river Helmsdale, close to the march with Kildonan, a fine-grained por- phyry occurs ; and at Lothbeg, and thence to the west end of the parish, the same rock is a very rude compound, with large vetns, in which felspar predominates, and which yield readily to the ac- tion of running water. In Mr Cunningham's Geognostical Account of the County of Sutherland, published in the Quarterly Journal of Agriculture, No. 46, that gentleman includes the coast side, or low-lying sec- tion of this parish, as part of the district in which the oolite se- 194 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. ries which he describes is developed ; and as his description is mi- nute and interesting, it is added in a note below.* About one-half of the whole stretch of sea coast in this parish, or from the west end of it to Port Gower, is a sandy beach, with the exception of low rocks covered durinf^ full tides, but forming nar- row promontories during low water, which, at irregular intervals, break the uniformity of the sandy beach ; and, with the exception also of occasional deposits of boulder stones of various rocks, pri- * ** Af\er leaving Brora, the oolite strata are completely coveredf until we arrive St Kintradwell, where a series is to be found dipping, in general north, at an angle of about 20°. At a short distance from the House of Kintradwell, there is a beauti- ful example of what may be termed a false or pseudo-vein, which consists of a mass of quartzMe sandstone, 76 yards in length by two feet in breadth, and traverses vertically slaty sandstone strata, inclined to the north north>ea$t at SO**. Laying aside the species of rock which forms this vcinous mass, every variety of form exhibited in the usual trap dikes, is to be found. It runs the same uninterrupted course, has the same definite lines of boundary, and in several places sends out latcral^branches. Indeed, if we keep theory apart from hcu, this is, as far as visible, as perfect a vein as any composed of a rock whose origin is consider, cd consonant with an eruptive and veinous form. As a proof that the present posi- lion of this sandstone vein is not its original one, we may state that the remains of plants which occur in it are all arranged parallelly to the sides of the vein ; where- as, if it had been quietly deposited in a previously existing rent, they would all have had a more or less horizontal arrangement. ^* Between Kintradwell and Helmsdale, the oolite series, when visible over a consi- derable extent, affords marks of much derangement, and frequently dips within thort spaces to various points at various angles. Associated with the wiiite lias sandstone near Port Gower, one of the brownish -red colour is to be met with, having the usual character of the red sandstone of the coal formation; shale also of green, purple, and brown sliades, is found to alternate with it. On the shore at Helmsdale, at Loth, and several other points, the oolite sandstone occurs, containing beds of conglome- rate, composed of variously sized masses of the sandstones, shales, and limestones of the series ; but this may easily be explained, by supposing, that, after the deposition of some of the strata, they were acted upon by destructive agents, and again reconso- lidated. After leaving the junction at Clyne, no other is discoverable until we ar> rive at the ravine of Alt Colle. Here the same conformability again appears, both series dipping in a disturbed manner. The quartz rock is the same as that already noticed, and in this and an adjoining glen, is found to afford numerous weU-raarked contortions. At the bridge of Loth- Beg, the quartz rock is replaced by granite, and an almost immediate junction of the oolite and the granite may be observed, the stra- ta of the former dipping north north-east at an angle of 40**. At Port Gower, this position is completely reversed, the lines of stratification, if prolonged, sinking un- der the granite. *< At the Green Table near the Ord of Caithness, and at several points along the shore, a conglomerate of the oolite series is found to rest immediately on the granite at angles of 40". Its apparently disturbed arrangement and mode of formation, have, by Professor Sedgwick and Mr M urchison, been explained by referring them to the action of the granite ; the fiict of its not being indurated or traversed by veins, being considered as explicable by supposing that the granite had been elevated in a solid sta|^ after its original fluid protrusion through the primitive strata. One reason for not adopting this theoretical view, exists in the fact, that the same conglomerate may be found, connected with the sandstones of the series, at points where there is no granite in the neighbourhood. To say that highly inclined and mineralogically unaltered strata, when in connection with granite, have assumed their angular position, by the granite being upheaved in a solid state, is a doctrine which is completely unsupport- ed by all that is known in r^ard to volcanic dynamics, and exists only as a very un- warrantable hypothesis. To imagine that all rocks inclined at high angles have been upraised subsequcDtly to their formation, must lead to very false conclusions ; and can never be adopted to its full extent, by any who have examined the disposition of mountain debris, and the high angle at which a talus may be accumulated.*' LOTH. 195 mitive, transition, and secondary, which the storms of centuries have collected in the bay of Kintradwell, and in one or two simi- lar localities. From Port Gower to the extremity of the parish at the Ord, the sea shore is formed of one continued and rugged mar- gin of limestone, part of the oolitic formation referred to by Mr Cunningham. Thb stone has often been burnt into hme, which was found to be of excellent quality ; but the extra expense of fuel at a place remote from coal markets, increased the expense of the manufacture beyond the price at which English lime can be de- livered in the parish ; and besides, the encroachments of the sea on this coast require that the natural rocky barrier, which present- ly exists, should not be weakened or reduced by the removal of any part of it. Zoology. — The only rare species of animal now found in the parish is the red-deer (Cervus elaphus)^ which occasionally wan- der from the interior recesses of the county, into the corries and passes of Ben Uarie and Ben Veallicb. The fox, once so destruc- tive to the farmer, has been extirpated ; and one of the last wolves killed in the county of Sutherland was destroyed in the Glen of Loth, some time between the years 1690 and 1700* The cattle, sheep, horses, and hogs, reared in the parish, arc all superior animals, and often obtain the highest prizes, when ex- hibited at public competitions. The fishes that may be said to belong to Loth are extremely important and valuable. The sal- mon of the Helmsdale are of a large size, and the river being fished by the proprietor, the Duke of Sutherland, the utmost at- tention is directed to the proper mode of fishing, which annually closes two weeks before the legal period, in order to allow a greater number of spawning fish to ascend the river; and the spawning-beds and fry are afterwards carefully protected ; but no peculiarity in the habits of the fish have been observed in this river. Of sea fish, the herring is the most valuable, and when they approach this part of the coast in the months of July and August, are in prime condition, and of very superior quality. Cod are also got in great numbers, and excel in quality and size those obtained in the upper waters of the Frith; and abundance of 4iad- dock, skate, and whiting are constantly obtained. Turbot are plentiful at a distance of some miles from the coast; but the fisher- men have no inducement to follow the deep-sea fishing. Lobsters and crabs are, at present, very numerous, but the former were so * Scxope's Art of Y}eQr Stalking contains an account of this occurrence. 196 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. severely fished some years ago, by fishing- smacks, for the London market, that it was, for some time thereafter, thought that the lob- ster had been exterminated along the coast. Botany. — Rare native plants are seldom met with in the parish ; but the cultivated vegetable productions are important and of the best quality. With the exception of a clump of Scotch firs at Kintradwell, and some stately sycamore and ash-trees at Kilmote, and a few straggling young trees at Midgarty and Port Gower, there is no growing wood in the parish. The grains raised in the arable lands, are of superior quality, and ripen early and with little risk, even in un&vourable seasons. The deep carse soil in the centre of the parish, yields all descriptions of grain, — ^wheat, barley, oats, beans, and pease ; but the quality of the barley of this dis- trict is so superior, that its cultivation is the chief object of the farmer; and large parcels of this grain have been raised of late years in the parish, which weighed 57^ lb. per bushel ; while one small parcel raised at Crakaig weighed 59 lb. The herbage of the hills and moorlands, however, do not excel similarly situated pas- turages in their neighbourhood ; and no rare plants appear in the uncultivated lands, unless we enumerate as such, Eriophorumf in boggy places ; Primula farinosoj in two or three plats of meadow ; Viola lutea in sheltered slopes of rivulets ; and the fragrant Jlfy- rica ffaky in marshes and soft grounds. Vaccinium myrtilhis, the blaeberry, and F. oxt/coccos, afford their wild native fruits, along some of the sides of the highest mountains ; and F. mtis-idcBaj the red bilberry, is common in less elevated moorlands. The steep and comparatively dry sides of the hills to the north of Navidale are adorned with some of the richest and most luxu- riant furze-bushes, Ulex EuropcBus^ to be met with in the north of Scotland, and which, when brilliant with their splendid golden blossoms, far exceed in wild beauty and richness, any other of our native plants, and invest with credit the anecdote of Linnaeus, who, for the first time, saw the furze on his visit to England in 1736, and was so enraptured with it, that it is said he fell on his knees in order to admire its bright blossoms. Another common plaift, the spear-thistle, Carduus lanceolatus^ rears its stately and barbed-head,, along the line of the old road across the Ord, in such great numbers as to justify the assertion, that the national emblem of Scotland is the decorative crest of the bold sea-front of the Ord, — one of the most characteristic headlands of ancient Caledonia. In the barren shingle along the sea shore, LOTH. 197 between Helmsdale and the Ord, Pulmonaria maritima^ a rare plant on the northern shores, attracts attention by its beautiful azure leaves. The rocky parts of the coast of the parish also fur- nish several species of Fuci^ and, in such abundance that, before the reduction in the pric« of the kelp, about thirty tons of kelp were annually manu&ctured in the parish ; but the present price of the article would not pay the expense of manufacturing it ; and no sea- ware has been burnt for several years past The best known species of Rid on this coast, are Fucus digitatusy F. palmattiSi F. vestcultn gusf F. nodiuuSf F. serratuSf and F,flum. II. — Civil History. There is no separate history of this parish known to exist ; but many events and occurrences connected with its annals are recorded in Sir Robert Gordon's History of the Earldom of Sutherland, which was written in the year 1630. The only direct land route to Caithness, and by the Pentland Firth to Orkney, being through this parish, it has, at different times, witnessed the march of hostile forces, and has often been the scene of disturbance and violence. During the inroads of the Northmen in, and preceding, the twelfth century, the coast of Loth appears to have been often visited by these daring invaders ; and Helmsdale, a name evidently derived from them, is believed to be identical with the name ** Hialmaidaly^ which occurs in one of the northern sagas. In the year 1198, the parish received a royal visit, on the occasion of King William the Lion's march into Caithness, to revenge the cruel death of John Bishop of Caith- ness;* for an ancient MS. descriptive of his expedition states, that the King had a great army, ^* and marched till he came to Eysteinsdale, — there are the boundaries of Katanes and Sudrland, -»the camp of the King of Scots stretched along the Dais, and that is a very long way." These Dales are believed to have been the valleys of Kildonan, terminating at Helmsdale, and Strathmore in Caithness, which communicate with each other, ** and that is a very long way ;" and in the last of which valleys, there is a place still called Easterdale. During the turbulent ages that succeeded King William's ex- • «* During King William's absence, Harold Earl of Orkney and Caithness ap- prehended John Bishop of Caithness, cut out bis tongue, and put out his eyes, for having opposed some designs of his at Court. For which King William upon his return, caused the Earl to be apprehended, cut out his tongue, pulled out his eyes, and then hang^ him upon a gibbet. These things happened in the year 1198."— BUhop ElplAntUm. 198 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. pedition, Loth, being a border parish, was exposed to all the sud- den inroads and craicks arising from the hostility which the inha- bitants of two adjoining districts, separated by a marked natural barrier, such as Sutherland and Caithness are, fostered against each other, before the blessings of regular government and the impartial administration of equal laws, were experienced ; and the parish also suffered very much from the lawless depredations committed by fugitives, and persons of desperate character, who sought for temporary shelter amidst the solitary recesses of the Qrd ; and the tales still, or very lately, lingering in the neigh- bourhood, with reference to these freebooters between the two counties, agree in spirit and tendency, with the sympathy expres- sed in some of the popular ballads of the period, in such terms, as, Alas ! that e*er such laws were made, To hang a man for gear ; Either for stealing cow or sheep, Or yet for horse or mare : Had not the laws then l)ccn so strict, I had never lost my joy ; But now he lodges with Auld Nick That hanged my Gilderoy.** But, notwithstanding the existence of this popular feeling, it is stated in Sir Robert Gordon's History, that, in the year 1617, a gibbet was erected on the top of the Ord, where ** some notable robbers that exercised all kynd of thift, and other misdemeanors in Southerland, Catteynes, and Rosse, were hanged.*' The disastrous battle of Floudden was fought on 9th Septem- ber 1513, and, shortly before then, a gallant body of Caithness- men, headed by their Earl, marched through this parish on their way to join the Scottish army. These brave men and their lead- er met with an honourable death on the field of battle ; but as they happened, when leaving Caithness, to cross the Ord on a Monday, and were dressed in a green uniform, there still exists a popular aversion among the natives of the district, to take a journey over the Ord on that day of the week, or in a green-co- loured coat. Passing over those other historical events connected with this parish, which are already before the public, in Sir Robert Gor- don's History, the next prominent occurrence was the appearance of about 700 Argyle Highlanders on their march into Caithness, in the summer of 1 679, in order to support the King's patent to the Earldom of Caithness, which had been granted on 28th June 1677, in favour of John Campbell of Gleoorchy, afterwards creat- LOTH. 199 ed Earl of Breadalbane. This expedition, which terminated in the battle of Altimarlach, to the westward of Wick, is remarkable as indicating the peculiar condition of Scotland at that compara- tively recent period, which admitted a subject to arm his vassals, and wage war, in support of his private legal claims. It was dur- ing the march northwards of the men of Glenorcby, on this occa- sion, that the well known quickstep airs, ^^ The Campbells are coming," and " The Braes of Glenorchy," obtained their names. The Rebellions in 1715 and 1745, occasioned the arming of the male population of this parish, in support of the reigning dynasty. During the retreat of the insurgents before the battle of CuUoden, in 1746, Lord Loudon was stationed in Dornoch, with some com- panies of the King's troops; but, hearing of the advance into Ross- shire of a large force under the Duke of Perth, with the intention of attacking him. Lord Loudon and his men abruptly retired to the westward^ leaving the whole county of Sutherland unprotect. ed« The Earl of CromartV} with a considerable force, instantly marched through Sutherland into Caithness, with the intention of collecting together such men in that latter county, as might be in- clined to join the rebel army ; and the Earl's men, among other outrages committed by them against individuals and private pro- perty, burnt, in this parish, the mansion-houses of Kintradwell and Crakaig, and disinterred the corpse of a person recently interred in the burying-ground at Navidale, who had been the relative of a zealous royalist at that place, and left the partly decayed body in his bed, — he having previously fled from his home on the ap- proach of the enemy. These proceedings exasperated the parish people ; and two of Lord Cromarty's officers, who had wandered into the glen of Loth, on their return from Caithness, were killed there by three countrymen who met them. Before the return from Caithness of this invading force, the militia of the county had time to assemble, and having attacked them to the west of Golspie, the Earl of Cromarty's forces were defeated in a running fight between Rhives and the Little Ferry, and the Earl, and almost all his officers and men who were not slain, were taken prisoners. This occurred two days before the battle of Culloden was fought ; and while the Earl was hurrying south to join the rebel army. Ltand'Owners. — His Grace the Duke and Earl of Sutherland is heritor of the whole parish, which, at all times, formed part of the ancient Earldom of Sutherland. Parochial RegUters. — There is no register of births and mar- 200 SUTHERLANDSHIUG. riages for this parish^ of any earlier date than the close of the last century ; and this is a defect common to almost all the neighbour- ing parishes, which has been often attended with the most vexa- tious and injurious consequences to persons in humble life, who required to establish their propinquity to deceased and remote re- latives. Older registers may have existed ; but, as there was no legal provision for the care and preservation of such records, the system under which they were entrusted to the parish schoolmas- ters, afforded little or no security for their preservation. All pa- rish registers are now under better and safer management than formerly ; but many persons who have directed their attention to the matter, are convinced, that, as national records, the parish registers of Scotland admit of being placed under more strict con- trol, and more certain protection, than have yet been devised for insuring their full public benefits. Antiquities. — The old Castle of Helmsdale, situate on an ele- vated green bank, close to the River of Helmsdale, where it min- gles with the sea water, is the only remarkable ruin now remaining in the parish. The date of its erection is not known : but the building is of that square form, with sharp angles, generally attributed to the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, in the north of Scotland. It was a hunting-seat of the Sutherland family, adjoining the old deer-forest of Sledale, and the Ord, and is distinguished in the annals of the county, as the place where John, the eleventh Earl of Sutherland, and his Countess, were both poisoned in July ]567, in a diabolical, but fortunately abortive attempt to poison the whole family, and thereby divert the succession to their honours and estates, out of the direct line of descent. Several of those very ancient edifices, known as circular or Pictish towers, stood formerly in the parish of Loth, and one of them, at Lothbeg, was entire at the time Pennant visited the county in 1769. It is now only distinguished as a circular cairn of small stones. Another of these towers stood at Wilkhouse ; one to the east of Midgarty ; and a very large one, called Dun-Phailj crowned the brow of the high ground, close to the public road, and about half-way between Port Gower and Helmsdale. The foundation of this last tower could only be traced of late years, and the large stones forming that foundation have been dug up recently for building purposes. The old Hunting House in the Glen of Loth, of which Pennant gives a plan, has also disappeared. * * Pennant's description of the above hunting houses is, that '* They consist of a gallery, with a number of small rooms on the sides, each formed of three large stones, LOTH. 201 Id the west side uf the steep bank of the Kintradwell Burn, an artificial opening or cave, and built and roofed with stone, called Coah'-geavag^ now shut by an accumulation of soil and rubbish, is said to lead to subterranean apartments, which, from descriptions giyeu by persons who entered them, before the mouth of the cave became impeded, are supposed to have been places of refuge or sepulchre. At a remote period, a chapel, called after St Ninian, stood at Navidale, and another, called John the Baptist's Chapel, close to the present bridge of Helmsdale ; and at both these places, there are burying-grounds, still used as such. Another of these chapels stood at Easter Garty, the ruins of which are still recol- lected ; and it is said that a fourth stood at Kintradwell, called St Trullew's Chapel, although the existence of this last one is not certain. Several barrows and tumuli are scattered throughout the parish, and the heads of ancient stone battle-axes have been found in some cairns supposed to point out the resting-place of persons slain in conflicts ; and at Strone-Rungie^ a low-lying point of the coast between Culgower and Wester Garty, a number of battle cairns still mark the place where it is said foreign invaders were successfully opposed and overcome. III. — Population. The population of Loth has been, for several years past, and is rapidly increasing. The early state of its population cannot be traced satisfactorily ; but some occasional facts have been ascer- tained, which warrant the conclusion, that the number of inhabi- tants was stationary for the last two hundred years, until about the year 1811. Thus, in February 1651, the " Committee of War," for the shire, in fixing the number of men for a militia regiment, allocated those from the parish of Loth as follows : '* Clynetraidwall and two davochs of Lothbeg, ... 7 men. The three davoch lands of Cracaik and ye davoch of Lothe and ye glen, . 7 LotheriDora and Eister Helmisdaill, . . . . 7 Culgor, West Garthie, and West Helmisdaiil, ... 7 Marie, Midgarthle, and East Garthie, .... 7 Navidaill, ...... 2 37 These numbers of selected fighting men bear about the same proportion to the strength of the regiment then raised, which the Tix. one on each side, and a third by way of covering. Tliese are made with the Tast Bags this country is famous for. At the extremity, is a larger apartment, of an oval figure, probably the quarters of the chieftain. The passage or gallery is without a roof, — a proof that they were only temporary habitations. Their length is from fifty to sixty feet. These buildings arc only in places where the great flags are plen- tiful. In Glen Loth are three, and are called by the country people Uags.*^ SUTHERLAND. O 202 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. parish afforded of males able to carry arms, and between the ages of 16 and 60, in the year of the last Rebellion 1745, when nearly 8000 men were enrolled as militiamen, on the estate of Suther land. At this last period, the relative proportion also of men from each of the townships, does not much differ from the allocation in 1651, — thus: Kintradwell, and part of Lothbeg, . . 33 men. Crakaig, Loth, and the Glen, . . 41 Lothmore and Easter Helmsdale^ . . 33 Culgotrer, Wester Garty, and West Helmsdale, 88 Marril, Midgarty, and East Garty, . . 22 Navidalc, .... 14 176 The Government returns give the following result for this pa- rish : In 1801, the population was 1374 1811, 1330 1821, 2008 1831. . 2234 This increase is to be attributed to the successful establishment of the herring-fishery at Helmsdale, and to the settlement of se- veral small tenants in that track of improvable land, chiefly near the coast, from Port Gower to Navidale. These causes of the increase have been in very active operation since the date of the last Government census, and, without attempting to anticipate, in exact numbers, the probable increase since that period, by trust- ing to any less authentic data than the census to be taken in the present year, it is believed by the reporter, that the increase will at least equal that which has occurred during the last two decades, or between the years 1811 and 1831. The erection of houses in Helmsdale, which, with the excep- tion of Port Gower, is the only village in the parish, is not only annually on the increase : but the accommodation they afford, and the style of building, are improving. This town, begun in 1818, has been regularly and steadily increasing since then; and the houses be- ing all new, and substantially built, and all roofed with slatesor tiles, and the streets regular, the general appearance of the whole place is as pleasing to a stranger as the prosperity of its principal trade, and the internal comforts of its dwellings, have been important and creditable to the inhabitants. There is no marked peculiarity in the habits of the people of the parish, or in their style or manner of dress. They are generally frugal in their mode of living, but have a laudable anxiety to ap- LOTH. 203 pear at all times in becoming and respectable apparel. The na- tive language of the country people is Gaelic, but almost all of them speak or understand English, and it may be said that all young persons, male and female, are able to read and write. The baneful but often alluring vices of poaching and smuggling have ]ong ago ceased within the parish, in consequence, chiefly, of the superior and comfortable condition in which almost all the heads of families in it are placed, as tenants holding directly, at very mo- derate rents, under their landlord, independent of intermediate dic- tation over their time and industry ; and which healthy position pre- cludes all desire to engage in the ruinous practice of illegal of- fences. The general character of the population is that of a decid- edly moral, religious, and industrious people ; and nowhere are the safety and security of individuals, and the rights of property, more respected and upheld, and less interfered with, than in the parish of Loth. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The arable lands may conveniently be classed in- to large farms, and the allotments possessed by small tenants. There are seven large farms in the parish, which, besides valuable ranges of low-lying and hill pastures, have among them 1 182 acres of arable land, equal in fertility to any others in the county* These farms are held under leases of nineteen years endurance, and are laboured under the five years shift of husbandry, having annually one-fifth part in fallow, turnips, potatoes, or other green crop ; one-fifth part in grass one year old ; one-fifth part in grass two years old ; and not more than two-fifth parts in corn crop. All the farms are conveniently subdivided, and enclosed with sub- stantial.stone dikes, and the farm buildings are modern and suitable. The lands held by the small tenants are also laboured with con- siderable skill and industry ; and each tenant raises annually bar- ley or bear, oats, and potatoes, besides small patches of turnips and sown grasses, and maintains one or more cows, and often rears his young cattle, and possesses one of the small hardy horses of the country, and a few of the small native sheep, besides swine and poultry in abundance. Their cottages, formerly very rude and mean, have been wisely removed by themselves, in situations where they were placed on improvable land, to more sterile parts of their lots, in order to convert all that can be rendered arable into corn land ; and hence, the comfortable stone cottages, of improved con- struction, which they now occupy, are generally placed on the 204 SUTHERLANDSHIUE. highest ridges and more rocky eminences of the different town- ships. The industry with which the trenching and improving of hitherto waste land is carried on by these small tenants, is easily ac- counted for, when it is stated, that no advance of rent follows in con- sequenceof any improvement orprogressiveamelioration of the soil; that the whole benefits resulting from these causes have been enjoy- ed exclusively by the tenants, and that the rents have been placed on such a reasonable scale, that there was not a single sixpence of the rents of the whole parish left unpaid on last audit day; and that such a proceeding as a distraint for rent has not been known among these tenants, for a long period of years. In addition to these mighty advantages, the whole allotments of the small tenants are very ju- diciously intersected by branch roads, along which the important article of fuel, — peats of excellent quality, — are readily carted home from the neighbouring hill mosses, and the necessary removal of manure and other field operations are effected with great facility. Fislieries. — The most important fisheries belonging to the pa- rish, are those of salmon in the river Helmsdale, and the herring- fishery at the village of Helmsdale. The former has been cele- brated from the oldest period of which we have record, as produc- tive and valuable. For several years past, the river has been fish- ed directly by the servants of the proprietor, who, avoiding all close and severe fishing, and taking every means to protect the spawning fish when ascending the river, and the fry afterwards, besides closing the fishing season, at least two weeks before the time fixed by law, (and which is also done in all the other rivers on the estates of Sutherland,) thus guard, by all available means, this fine salmon stream from the evils of too close and exterminat- ing a system of fishing, so often complained of, when tenants oc- cupy such fishings. The fish are disposed of by contract, at a certain price per pound, and are sent off in a fresh state in ice to the London market. Herring-Fishery. — This very important branch of industry has been conducted with such spirit, and such signal and increasing success, since it was established and prosecuted, on a regular sys- tem at Helmsdale, that its history and present condition claim particular notice in any account of the parish of Loth. The un- settled state of the north of Scotland before the suppression of the Rebellion in 1746, may alone be adduced as a sufficient reason for the neglect, down to' that period, of the fisheries which now add so materially to the prosperity and well-being of the population of LOTH. 205 our sea coasts ; but from that date to the beginning of the present century, there was a period of fifty-four years of uuintemipted in- ternal peace and public security, &vourable for the pursuit of most branches of industry, and which could not be materially affected by a distant war such as that with America, during which the fisheries were as completely neglected as ever ; and in this state, it is probable, they would have continued much longer, had not Government and patriotic individuals interfered. Capital is sel- dom embarked in hazardous and doubtful speculations, unless there be a chance of extraordinary profits. The ultimate success of the herring fishery was by no means certain ; great profits could not, with probability, be calculated upon ; and the Dutch, who, before the present century, supplied the continental markets, were, from their experience and perseverance, and more especially from their superior mode of curing, (then supposed to be known to them ex- clusively,) competitors of the most formidable description. The herring-fishery was, therefore, generally looked upon as an import- ant national concern, in so far as it reared a hardy class of sea- men, but as possessing few attractions for individual speculators. Hence, the first efforts of Government to advance the fisheries were attended with partial success only ; and such is the difficulty of selecting the most efficient means, at a first trial, in some legis- lative measures, that the principle upon which the Government bounties for the encouragement of the herring fishery were grant- ed, has been subsequently found to be an erroneous one. Busses of not less than sixty tons burden were the description of vessels encouraged ; and all such, when fitted out for sea in a particular manner, were entitled to a bounty of L. 3 per ton, whether fish were caught or not. Consequently, it often followed that busses, after being passed for the deep sea fishery, skulked along shore, or lingered in safe retired creeks, among the Orkney and other islands, — only going to sea when the weather was inviting. The crews also were exempted from impressment ; so that a number of lazy hands were thus obtained by the master, to man the bus- ses, at a trifling expense. This system was directly the reverse of the active and vigorous mode of fishing now prosecuted. The next measure, being a bounty of 4s. on the cran of fish, gutted, cured, and packed, in an improved manner at stations on shore, was, however, a most important and serviceable enactment, and may be considered as giving the first well-directed impulse which the pre- sent fishery system received. The curer, at first, when the busi- 206 . SUTHERLANDSHIE. ness was imperfectly understood, and when he could only com- mand a limited number of fishermen, sufficiently skilful and ex- perienced, had to incur expenses and run risks, now guarded against ; and, at that time, the bounty often formed his only pro- fit, — while without it, it is probable that the business would have lingered or decayed. As the trade prospered under the bounty system, several individuals without capital appeared as curers. They engaged a few inefficient boats, and the premium promised to the crews was often made a postponed payment, consequent on the sale of the cured fish. If regular curing premises could not be procured, an open area with portable sheds was used. The staves, the salt, and the other curing materials were obtained up- on credit ; and whenever the barrels were packed, and branded by the fishery officer, the bounty was payable and obtained, and this advance paid off the pressing current expenses. Latterly, curers of this description increased too rapidly ; but the bounty, which originally worked so much good, (although as the trade increased and was understood, it fostered unsound speculation,) was withdrawn in time to place the herring-fishery on a more safe foundation ; because now, few persons will or can adventure in it, who are not possessed of some capital or credit. The regulations as to the size of the barrel, the curing and packing of the fish, and the branding of the barrels, are still at- tended to ; and indeed, these regulations are so well calculated to secure the proper curing of the fish, that self-interest alone must compel the respectable curer to observe them strictly. Fishery officers are still retained at the different stations, whose duty it is to brand all cured herrings submitted to them, in barrels of the legal size, if of good quality, and regularly cured; and their brand, a crown, stamps them as of prime quality ; and thus the fish acquire a character, without which the curer could not obtain the current market-price. The barrel is, in all respects, the same as when the bounty was granted. The breadth of the staves is ge- nerally about three inches and a half, and the number in a barrel is 18. The barrel contains 32 gallons; and the number of hoops varies from 16 and 17 to 18. For the West India market an iron hoop at each end is added. The effect of these regulations is equally beneficial to the public as to the curer ; for, without them, or similar checks, boatmen and inexperienced persons would pack fish, without regard to quality, mode of cure, or size and descrip- tion of barrel ; and a quantity of inferior and bad fish would get LOTH. 207 into market, which might ultimately create a prejudice against all British cured herrings, and lower the price of the commodity so far, that no profit would be obtained for those regularly cured* The Helmsdale cured herrings are equal in quality to any in Britain, and have attained a very high character in the market. This excellence may be attributable, in a great degree, to the very superior curing-yards, with which all the curers in Helmsds^e have supplied themselves. No fish are cured here in the open air, ds is frequently done, from the want of accommodation, at other sta- tions, greatly to the prejudice of the commodity ; because the rich and admired qualities of the herring are of so volatile a quality, that the slightest exposure of the fish to the sun, or even to the glare of strong daylight, before or during the process of curing, de- teriorates the fish. The Helmsdale curing-yards are all perfect in their accommodation, and are cool and ample in their construction. The success attending the Helmsdale fishery has been so steady and progressive, that, although it did not commence until so late as the year 1814, when the first doubtful trial was made there, the number of barrels cured at Helmsdale, and the creeks within what is called, under the Fishery Board Control, the Helmsdale District, have increased more than nine-fold, up to the year 1840, the numbers, as appears from the subjoined table, in the year 1815, being 5318 barrels, and in the year 1839, being 46,571 barrels; and of this last number, no less than 23,815 barrels were exported. This rate of increase considerably exceeds that of the success over the kingdom generally, the latter having only had an increase of six-fold since the establishment, in 1809, of the Fish- ery Board, which has so materially advanced the true interests of the trade ; the numbers at that time, throughout the whole king- dom, being only 90,000 barrels, or not double the number now cured in the Helmsdale District alone; while, last year, the whole quantity cured in Britain were 550,000 barrels. Table of the Numbers of Barrels of Herrings cured, branded, and exported, in the Helmsdale District, in each year, from 1815 to 1840. Barrels Barrels Barrels Barrels Barrels Barrels Year. Cured. Branded. Exported. Year. 1821, Cured. Branded. Eiported. 1815. 53184 2121 20561 12863 6585 1816, 14798 .9280 182-2, 19632 11968 4361 1817, 14176 .4844 2445 1823, 25647 16583 8700 1818. 22876 11770 5642 1824, 28804 18891 6598 1819, 28536 13940 4911 1825, 34492 23972 9749 1820, 28199 17318 6447 1826, 12071 6663 1266 208 SUTHERLAND8HIRE. Barrels Barrels Barrels Barrels Barrels Barrels Year. Cured. Branded. Exported. Year. 1834, Cured. Branded. Exported. 1827, t25753 17822 5896 7302 3316 920 1828, 17476 10077 :^204 1835, 28377 17385 6517 1829, 19857 12830 5405 1836, 19800 9516 7971 1830, 23310 13637 6923 1837, 36247 19357 14820 1831, 20030 8824 5890 1838. 46345 28114 24294 1832, 11138 6100 3131 1839, 46571 27647 23815 1&33, 27432 14315 7990 The future prosperity of this most valuable addition to the in- dustry of the parish may, with great confidence, be augured, from our knowledge of the sure and judicious foundation upon which it commenced, and also from the efficient means and resources which are now provided, on a permanent footing, for supporting the extension and high character of the trade at Helmsdale, in- cluding the settlement of native and regularly bred boat-builders and coopers, and the establishment also of a steam-mill for sawing barrel staves, in the village. V. — Parochial Economy. The only villages in the parish are Helmsdale and Port Gower, which are both on the sea coast, and distant about two miles from each other. Port Gower is partly supported by some excellent land adjoining it, which is divided among a few of the villagers, and by a settlement of active fishermen. It possesses a comfort- able and pleasantly situated inn ; and the Parliamentary road along the coast, towards Caithness, runs along it Helmsdale enjoys ample means of communication with all parts of the kingdom, having the great North Parliamentary Road running through it, which, on one hand, leads to Wick and Thurso, and on the other, to all parts of the south of Scotland and England ; while a large steamer frequents Wick from Edinburgh, during eight months of the year; and the harbour of Helmsdale is often frequented by shipping from various ports of Britain and Ireland. The Parlia- mentary road through the parish, called the Dunrobin road, was completed, under one contract, in the year 1811, and extends from Golspie to the Ord, a distance of *2 1 miles and 880 yards, and originally cost L. 6000 ; and 13 miles of this road run through the parish of Loth. Another road leads from Helmsdale, through the Strath of Kildonan, to the North Sea at Bighouse ; and a branch road, leading from Lothbeg, through the Glen, joins the last-mentioned line of road, to the north of the church and manse of Kildonan. The bridge of Helmsdale is a handsome LOTH. 209 Structure of two arches, and each of a span of 70 feet, and its erection cost L.2200. It was finished in 1811. The first improvement on the harbour of Helmsdale took place in 1818, when a pier and breastwork were erected, at an expense to the proprietor of L. 1600; but since then, several other sums have been expended in extending and enlarging the harbour ; and other improvements connected with it are understood to be in con- templation. Helmsdale has a post-office, one principal and commodious inn, and several other public-houses ; and the mail-coach passes and repasses through the village, daily. A large distillery, close to the town, had been in active opera* tion for several years, until last summer, when the circumstances of the distillers caused the work to be stopped ; and since then, this distillery, and a beer brewery connected with it, have not been in operation. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is now, owing to the great increase of the population of late years in and around Helms- dale, at an inconvenient distance from the greater part of the in« habitants, although it is locally situated nearly in the centre of the parish. It is a new and very handsome church, and in a com- plete state of repair. In order to accommodate the inhabitants of Helmsdale, and the increasing population of the eastern extremity of the parish, the late Duchess- Countess, and the present Duke of Sutherland, have erected a large, convenient, and substantial church in Helmsdale, which is now about being finished ; and of late years, a clergyman of the Church of Scotland has been resi- dent in Helmsdale, who regularly performs divine service there, so that church accommodation is amply provided for in this parish. The present parish of Loth does not appear to have been a dis- tinct religious district before the Reformation, and it is not even named in the charter of Erection of the bishopric of Caithness. It possessed, however, at that period, several religious chapels, of which, that called St John's Chapel, at Helmsdale, was the most important and best endowed ; and it is probable that, with the aid of these minor religious houses, the present parish of Loth was, in Catholic times, divided, qtioad sacra^ between the jurisdictions of the Prebendaries of Clvne and Kildonan. A church existed, however, at Loth in 1627, for Sir Robert Gordon states, that, in that year, the church of Loth was repaired. During the period of Scotch Episcopacy, the conjunction of Loth and Clyne appears to 210 SUTHEBLANDSHIUE. have continued ; for some entries about the year 1618 mention, that " Andro Andersone, minister" of Clyne, had besides his sti- pend, the kirkland of Loth, and at the same time, Walter Ander- sone was " reidar at Clyne and Loth," and had his stipend with the kirkland of Clyne. In a deed granted by the Andrew Ander- son here referred to, he is designated " Ministro veriti Dei apud Loithe," and as the paper is only signed by his mark, there is ad- ded after it " cannot wreitt myself." Hector Pope, who died about the year 1719, was the last minister of Loth who retained the Episcopal form of appearing in the pulpit in a surplice. The succeeding ministers of Loth were, Robert Robertson, William Rose, George Macculloch, George Gordon, and the present minister, and Rev. Donald Ross. Before the year 17*26, the Presbytery of Dornoch, which in- cludes this parish, formed part of the synod of Ross; but on the 15th May 1726, the General Assembly disjoined this Presbytery from the synod of Ross, and erected the presbyteries of Dornoch, Caithness, and Tongue, into one synod, as they at present stand ; and the meetings of the synod to be held at Dornoch and Thurso, per vices. Education.*^The parish school is at Port Gower, and is at- tended by all the children in the neighbourhood of that village, and in the western division of the parish. Another school, sup- ported in Helmsdale by the inhabitants, is well attended by the children in and around that village. There is also a female teach- er in Helmsdale. Poor, — The ordinary church collections and annual donations by the proprietor are the available funds for the benefit of the ordinary poor. In judging of the condition of, and necessary support by money payments to, the poor, in a country parish like Loth, a very misleading mistake is frequently committed, by assuming that their wants and destitution are the same as those of the poor in large towns. In such towns, owners of he- ritable property never permit part of their subjects to be gratui- tously occupied by any indigent person, and the very refuse and offals of all. personal effects and articles are sacred, by day and night, against all intrusion. On the contrary, in Loth and similar parishes, the actual poor have «ver the gratuitous accommodations from the proprietor, of dwelling-places in healthy localities, and small plats of ground for vegetables, and the rearing of common poultry, — of free access to water, open fields, peat mosses, decay- ed heather, furze, and brushwood, the products of the shore, and LOTH. 211 the gleanings of the harvest ; from all which, shelter, constant fuel, and limited supplies of food are certain, — while in most dis- tricts, the charitable seldom fail to add considerably, and in pri- vate to the necessities of the deserving poor. Under such cir- cumstances as these, a few shillings in addition from the parish funds are more valuable than the same sums among the poor of towns. In this part of the north of Scotland, the indigent poor are never neglected ; but in order to continue to act towards them as their wants require, it is now found absolutely necessary to pro- tect the northern inhabitants from the hordes of vagrants who have been wandering, of late years, from the southern parts of the king- dom, over the northern counties, and carrying with them all the moral and physical diseases of crowded cities in their most dread* ed forms. March 1841. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. The superficial extent of the County of Sutherland is comput- ed to be 1865 square miles of land, and 38 square miles of water; or l,19d»940 acres of land, and 24,230 acres of water. The ex- treme length of the county, in straight lines, at three diflferent points, viz. from Inverkirkaig to the Ord of Caithness, is 60 miles; from Rhusloir in Assynt, to the Height of Knockfin, is 56 miles ; and from Cape Wrath to Drum-Hallasfain, is 42 miles ; while the breadth from Dornoch to Strathy-point is 54 miles ; and from Rosehall to Whitenhead is 42 miles. Sutherland is situate be- tween 57° 55', and 58° 37 of north latitude ; and 34° 43' and 5^ 23' 30 " west longitude. Name. — The name of the county in the earliest writings extant is %^e\iSudrland^ — thereafter Southerland^ and now Sutherland, and can be traced back to the ninth and tenth centuries, and is probably of an older date. It evidently originated among the north- men, who acquired settlements about the periods referred to, in Caithness and Orkney, and who, from their northern position, distinguished the country immediately adjoining them, by a gene« ral name, signifying the land south from them. In like manners the most southern habitation or township in the county was called Suderha (the southern-hall,) and is still known as Sidera, in the parish of Dornoch. Boundaries. — Sutherland is bounded on the south from the Ord, in a south-west direction to the Point of Dornoch, by the Ger- man Ocean or Moray Frith ; and thence to the west sea, by the county of Ross. The Dornoch Frith, formerly known as the River of Portnaculter, and its leading stream the Oykill, separate the two counties, in a straight line of about 35 miles. Thence, the march wanders among the high grounds, between the two seas ; whence the waters shed in opposite directions to the east and west, and where the ancient and natural march was departed from in favour of Ross-shire, in consequence of an award upon evidence • Drawn up by Goorgc Sutherland Taylor, Esq. GoUpie. OBSBUVATIONS ON THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. 213 subsequently found to have been false. The windings of the pre^ sent march at this part of the interior, are of considerable length; but the distance in a straight line from the source of the Oykill, to the east end of Loch Veyatie, where water again separates the counties, is only about 8 or 9 miles. Loch Veyatie, Fewn Loch, and the river and bay of Kirkaig, all within Sutherland, complete the boundary to the West Sea. The western boundary of Su- therland is the West Sea or Atlantic Ocean ; and its northern boundary, from Cape Wrath to the confines of Caithness, is the North Sea. There are several islands along both these coasts, which form parts of the county. The county of Caithness forms the eastern boundary of Sutherland ; the two counttes being se- parated by the summit of a high range of hills, — well defined, — from Fea-Drum-Hallastain at the North Sea, to the Ord of Caithness at the southern extremity.* Physical Appearances. — The interior of the county is mark- ed by a lofty range of mountains, which separate the west and north coasts of the county from its southern districts. This range commencing with Suilven in Assynt, and ending with the two fien-Griams, near Caithness, contains the highest mountains in the county, many of them rising to heights of from 2500 feet to 3230 feet, and presenting varied and very remarkable outlines. The alpine character of this extended range is also preserved in the magnitude of many lakes at the base of the mountains, in the depth of the openings and passes, in the expansion of widely spread mountain sides, and in a variety of romantic valleys, and rugged glens and hollows. Many parts of the interior also form exten- sive table-lands, chiefly of moss, and unbroken by any marked fea- tures. The western and northern districts of the county, sepa- rated by the interior mountains from the southern parts, are quite dissimilar to them in appearance and character. Thus, the district of Assynt and Edderachillis, along the west coast, is one of the most remarkable in Scotland, for the general ruggedness * In a royal charter defining the bounds of the county of Sutherland, in the year 1631, the following is the description giren : <* Beginning upon the north at the Btrypc called Faehallodaill, which divides Strathnaver from Caithness, and fra that south-east by the top of the hills to the Ord upon the sea coste, including the haill bounds of the Ord, and thair fra soutb-wcst'till the mouth of the water of Tayne, alias Purtnacutar ; and fra that west to the water of Oikill, comprehending therein the haill lands and country of Fairincostar, alias Sleischeillis ; and fra that west till Loch- bronie and Coygatlie, so far as the diocese of Caithness extends, comprehending thairin the said lands and country of Assynt into the west sea, and fra thence north up the sea coste till the northmost point of the land called Ardurines ; and fra thence east to the river and water of UaUodaill ; and fra that east to the said strype called Facballo- daUl.** 214 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS and inequalities of its surface, and for a great number of rocky eminences, and of second-rate lakes, which characterize its scenery. Along the north coast, the same description of sce- nery continues, but in a more modi6ed form, and softened by an open track of arable land at Durness ; by the picturesque beauty of Tongue, and its improved policies; by the extensive and beau- tiful valley of Strathnaver; and the more tame but rather fertile strath of Hallodale. The sea coast of these two districts, also, presents headlands, and numerous cliffs of the boldest description. The eastern and southern parts of the county, again, are mark- ed by several extensive and pleasant valleys, surrounded by high hills, by rich pasture grounds, and by extensive tracks of well-cul- tivated arable land, in the parishes of Criech, Dornoch, Golspie, Clyne, and Loth. The sea coast in this direction is flat, with sandy shores, except at the eastern extremity of the county, where the majestic headland of the Ord .stands erect out of the German Ocean. Mountains. — The mountains of Sutherland are very remarkable features of the county, — in their number, — their height, — their sin- gular and varied outlines, — and the detached position of a few of them. The altitude of the highest of these mountains has b^n ascertained to be as follows : — Ben More of Assynt, 3431 feet high. Ben Uarie« Ben Klibreck, 3164 Ben Hope, 3061 Fionareni 3015 Ben Ilee, 285A Ben Spionnue, 2366 Ben Armin, 2306 Ben Griam-more, • 1935 Ben Uarie« . 1923 feet high. Ben Vealicli, 1838 Ben Horn/ . 1712 Ben Sraorale, 1667 Ben Lundie^ . 1467 Ben Hutic. . 1345 Ben Bhraggie, . . 1282 Rivers, — The Sutherland rivers are very numerous; but as all of them have their source in^the interior parts of this county, and do not receive any tributary streams or supplies from other coun- ties, except two rivers that join the Oykill from Ross-shire, they are not remarkable for size, or the volume of their waters. The larger rivers are all valuable for their salmon-fishings ; but none of them are navigable, except the estuaries of the Oykill and of the Fleet, for short distances. The largest of these rivers is the Oykill, which has its rise in Loch-Aish, — a wild mountain«lake near the eastern limb of Ben -More of Assynt This stream forms the boundary between the counties of Ross and Sutherland, and is augmented in its course by a number of burns, by the rivers of ON THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. 216 Eanaig, from the Koss hills, and Cassley, and Shin, two large Sutherland rivers. After the junction of these streams, their united waters are generally called the Kyle of Sutherland ; and immediately above Bonar, where the Kyle is crossed by an elegant iron bridge, having one arch of 150 feet span, the River Carron from Ross-shire flows into it. The river thus augmented widens considerably ; and downwards, to Tarbetness, it is now generally named the Dornoch Frith, although, for several centuries, it was known as the River of Portnaculter. The tide flows up to a point at a short distance above the junction of t(ie Cassley and Oykill, and vessels of small burden navigate the frith up to Bonar Bridge^ although the formidable sand-banks, known as the Gizzen Briggs, at the entrance of the frith, formed by the descending stream being here first resisted by the flowing tides from the Moray Frith, ren- ders the entrance into the frith intricate at all times, and often very dangerous. The Cassley and the Shin are both large and handsome rivers, the former flowing along a lengthened valley of the same name, and the latter issuing out of Loch Shin, and hav- ing a course of six miles. There are other three rivers along the east and south coast of the county. The River Fleet forms an estuary, now known as the Little Ferry, but formerly called the River Unes. The upper part of the Fleet, which juns through Strathfleet, is an active rivulet, which, as it increases in size, flows with sluggish stream for several miles before it reaches the opening of the estuary. The next river is the Brora, having a course of about five miles from Loch Brora, before it enters the sea at the village of the same name ; and the only other river in this quarter is the handsome stream of the Helmsdale, which, after a course of upwards of twenty miles through the Strath of Kildonan, falls into the sea at Helmsdale. On the north coast of the county, the river of Hallodale, having a course of about twenty miles through the strath of the same name, joins the North Sea at the bay of the Tor of Bighoiise, near the boundary with Caithness. The next river westward is rather a small one, the Strathy, flowing from a lake of the same name. Further on, the Naver enters the sea at a sandy bay of the coast. This river has a course of about thirty miles, from Loch Naver, through the strath of that name, and is about the same size as the Helmsdale. The Borgie or Torrisdale river, a much smaller stream, flows into the sea, within one mile's dis- tance from the mouth of the Naver ; but farther westward, as far as 216 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS Cape Wrath, there is no other stream deserving the name of river, except the rather unimportant rivers of Hope and Dionard. The former has a very short course of about two miles from Loch Hope to the sea, but carries along with it a considerable body of water ; and the Dionard, after forcing its way through all the obstructions of a particularly rugged mountain strath, silently enters the head of the Bay of Durness. The rivers of the west coast having short courses through wild districts, are more remarkable for the turbulence of their streams, than for their size. The Inchard is rather a small stream, but has sufficient water to afford a salmon-fishing. The Laxford, after a short course from Loch Stack, falls into Loch Laxford, a salt water loch. This stream is proverbially an excellent salmon river, and affords the best angling of any river in Britain, of its size. The Inver is a very rapid and headlong river, issuing from Loch As-, synt, and falling into Loch Inver, a deep sea-bay ; and the Kir- kaig, which divides Ross from Sutherland, is a tolerably large sized stream, having its source and its whole supply of water from Su- therland, it being wholly a river of this county. Lakes. — The fresh-water lakes of Sutherland are very nume- rous, and many of them are of large size. The largest are con- nected with, or amidst, the interior range of lofty mountains. The first, as to size, is Loch Shin, the deep reservoir of an immense body of water that reposes on the heights of the parish of Lairg, and stretches towards Assynt. This lake, including the small Loch Griam, at its west end, and which is almost connected with it, is in a straight line, eighteen miles long. It is one of a remark- able chain of lakes, which, with short intervening spaces, extends from within ten miles of Bonar Bridge, the highest navigable point of the Dornoch Frilh, on the east coast, to Loch Laxford, an arm of the Atlantic. The other lakes of this chain are Loch Merkland,* three miles in length, and only distant from Loch Griam about one mile and a-half. The next in succession is Loch More, or, more properly, Loch Rynie, which is only at a distance of two miles from the west end of Loch Merkland. Loch More is about four miles and a half in length ; and at a distance of one * The name of this lake, as also Stack and Laxford^ are plainly Scandinavian names. Mark^ signifying a forest, as well as the march of a territory, orjiiiet terrec, would, in either sense, be very applicable here ; I^och Merkland being within the Dirie-more Forest, and the chain of lakes, (tf which it is the centre, having been an- ciently the boundary between Ardurness and the old estate of ^kelbo. Stack is the descriptive name of the conical mountain that rises from Loch Stack; and Laxford (or LaZ'tiord) is palpably the Salmon Frith. ON THE COUNTY OF SUTHEULAND. 217 mile from its western extremity is Loch Stack, a large and nearly circular lake of about one mile in diameter, with a contracted limb towards the west, which brings the deep water of the lake to with- in three miles of the head of the sea water of Loch Laxford. In Edderachillis and Durness, many other lakes of considerable size, add to the beauty of the scenery, or agreeably break the uni- form bleakness and sterile appearance of parts of the country ; but Loch Hope, which is in this district, requires to be separately no- ticed, as being a singularly romantic and placid lake of six miles in length, situate at the foot of the majestic Ben Hope. The dis- trict of Assynt lies to the south of the chain of lakes already no- ticed, and may be said to be studded with lakes, having upwards of 200 moderately sized lakes, besides smaller tarns. Loch As- synt, about six miles and a half in length, is one of the most pic- turesque of all the Sutherland lakes, and presents many splendid views. Lochs Urigill, Cama, Veyatie, Na-gana, Beanoch, Gorm- loch, and Culfreich, in the same parish, are also large, and some of them romantic sheets of water. On the other hand. Loch Loyal, which reposes along the east side of the splendid mountain of the same name, is, with its con- tinuation, Loch Craigie, seven miles in lengtti. To the south- west, Loch Maedie, having some small wooded islands, is three miles long; and about five miles to the eastward. Loch Naver extends six miles along the foot of Ben Klibreck. On the east side of this mountain, are the secluded but very picturesque Lochs Corr and Vealloch, — the former three, and the latter two miles in length, and both almost unknown to the public. Still farther to the eastward are Loch Strathy, about a mile and-a-half long, and the lakes which distinguish the upper parts of the parish of Kil- donan ; but of these we will only enumerate Loch Badanloch, Loch-na-Clar, Loch-na-kuen, Loch Truderscaig, Loch-ari-cliny, and Loch-in-ruar. In the east district of Sutherland, several small lakes occur ; but Loch Brora is the only one of any note. It is greatly admir- ed, and its banks exhibit many of the bold and wild features of the Highlands, combined with verdant meadows, fertile fields, and vigorous plantations, amidst which the waters of the lake con- tract and expand at three diflFerent points, in its length of three miles and a-half. There are some other smaller lakes in the pa- rishes of Clyne, Golspie, Rogart, Lairg, Criech, and Dornoch ; SUTHERLAND. P 218 GENEUAL OBSERVATIONS. but none of them require to be individually noticed in this general Report. Islands, — The i$lands belonging to Sutherland are all situate along the west and northern coasts. They are very numerous, and some of them are inhabited. Handa, on the Edderachillis coast, is the most remarkable of these islands, from the altitude of its cliffs at one side, and as being the resort of innumerable sea« fowl during the hatching season. The Stack and Skerries, two remarkable islands, or rather lofty and narrow rocks, are the most distant from shore, of the Sutherland islands, and are resorted to in the summer months, by some of the Sutherland tenants, in quest of seals, which are found there in great numbers. Rural Affairs, — The proportion of arable land is very small, compared with the extent of pasture ranges in the county; but the system of agriculture pursued by the tenants of arable farms is not excelled in any part of the more favoured districts in Scot* land. The small tenants rear black-cattle, which are generally sold when young, and, being sound and improving animals, are eagerly purchased for the south country feeders. Cheviot sheep are the staple produce of the county ; and it is computed, that the permanent stock maintained in Sutherland is not under 170,000. Roads. — Before the' year 1811 there were no formed roads within the county ; but in that year, the first Parliamentary roads were completed, and since then the rapidity with which the whole county has been opened up, and intersected by leading lines and cross-branches of excellent roads, and all necessary bridges, is one of the most remarkable events in the annals of northern improve* ments. The Parliamentary Commissioners effected a great deal by the erection of Bonar Bridge, which opens the communication into the county, and across the Dornoch Frith, without being compelled to encounter the always disagreeable, and often preca- rious passage of a ferry ; and by the completion of a road from Bonar Bridge to the Ord, as the great and leading road from the south into Caithness; and also by the completion of another road from Bonar Bridge to Tongue on the north coast. Still, with the exception of these two roads, the county was as completely shut out from the rest of the empire as formerly ; but at this junc- ture, a new era for the completion and maintenance of all neces- sary lines of road, commenced to the county ; and the untired exertions, the liberality and patriotism of the late Duke of Suther- land, effected this mighty and lasting advantage for the county of ON THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. 219 Sutherland, which has not only opened up its resources, and pav- ed the way for its further and future advancement in prosperity, but has alto been of incalculable importance in a national point of new, as consolidating remote and hitherto secluded districts with the rest of the empire, and securing all the other collateral bene- fits of well directed labour, and the increase of local wealth and public revenue. Eedesiastieal State. — There are thirteen parishes in the coun- ty of Sutherland, besides part of the parish of Reay in Caithness. Of these the parishes of Assynt, Clyne, Criech, Dornoch, Gol- spie, Kildonan,. Lairg, Loth, and Rogart, nine in number, consti- tute^ the Presbytery of Dornoch; and the minister of the Go- ▼emment church of Stoer, in the parish of Assynt, is now an ad- ditional member of this Presbytery. The remaining four parishes of Durness^ Edderachillis, Parr, and Tongue, constitute the Pres- bytery of Tongue, which has two additional members in the mi- nisters of the Government churches of Kinlochbervie, in the pa- rish of Edderachillis, and of Strathy, in the parish of Farr. CMl History. — The early history of this county has not been so satisfutorily traced as to authorize an epitome of it in a concise report like the present Suffice it to say, that its early annals are only to be traced in the history of the ancient Earls of Sutherland, who ap- pear, at the very first dawn of our authentic history, as the power- ful and apparently long-settled rulers and proprietors of the terri- tories still enjoyed by their lineal descendant, the present Duke of Sutherland. Sir Robert Gordon's History of the Earldom of Su- therland, which was written in 1630, commences its narrative about the beginning of the thirteenth century, and is continued till the time when it was written. It affords ample details, expressed in quaint language, of the affairs of Sutherland, and has been sub- jected to several tests, by the examination of other writings and contemporary authorities, which prove the correctness of his lead- ing facts. There has been no history of the county written since 1630 ; but materials exist for such a work, including'public events in the north of Scotland, in the stirring thnes of the Revolution of 1 688, and of the Rebellions of 1715, 1719, and 1746 ; which are, at present, either unknown, or ill understood by the public. The Sutherland Family. — The foregoing brief observations on the county of Sutherland, may, with great propriety, be concluded })y 220 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS a short notice of the antiquity of this illustrious house, whose head has been Scotland's Premier Earl, for some generations. There is ample written evidence of Lords and Earls of Sutherland, in the early part of the thirteenth century ; and there is every probability in the supposition that they were of a far more ancient standing, when we find the first written notices of them in deeds, by which they conveyed large tracks of country from their patrimonial estates^ as gifts for behoof of the church. From this early period, the li- neal descent of the succeeding Earls rests on the most undoubted evidence that can be afibrded by crown charters, marriage-contracts, and the services of heirs. There is written evidence that Hugo Freskyn was proprietor of Sutherland between the year 1186 and 1214. Without arguing here the probability that this person held the title of Comes or Early there is undeniable proof that his son, ^^ Willielmus Dominus de Sutherlandia, filius et haeres quondam Hugonis Freskyn," died Earl of Sutherland about the year 1248. He was succeeded by his son, William the second Earl, who held the title forseventy-seven years, and died in 1325. He signed the letter from the nobility of Scotland to the Pope in 1320, and was with the Scottish army at Bannockburn, and at Brigland, in Yorkshire, in 1322. The third Earl was Kenneth, son of the last Earl, and he fell at the battle of Hallidon Hill, 22d July 1333. He was succeeded by his eldest son, William, the fourth Earl, who married the Lady Margaret Bruce, second daughter of King Robert the Bruce, by whom he had two sons, John, who died in England while detained a hostage for the ransom of his uncle, David II., and William, who succeeded his father; and as all the subsequent Earls of Su- therland are directly descended from him, they are also lineally descended maternally from the royal family of Scotland, before the accession of the Stuarls to the Throne. This Earl was a very powerful Noble, and held lands in the shires of Aberdeen and Inverness, which he gifted, before the death of his son, ihe hostage, to several potent persons, (viri potentes^ as they are called), in order to secure their support to his son's title to the Crown, who had been selected by King David to succeed him. Thus he conveyed the lands of Bonne, Enzie, Kincardine, Tomortine, Kin- tore, Kilcairne, Fetternairn, Dunnotter Ca.«*tle, Enzie, Boyne, Cluny, Dunbeath, Downy, Aboyne, and the Barony of Urquhart, to the Hays, Sinclairs, Erasers, Ogilvies, and Gordons. William, the fifth Earl, the son of Earl William and Lady Margaret Bruce, was at ON THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. 221 the battle of Otterburn, 5tb August 1388, and died in 1389. He was succeeded by his son, Robert, the sixth Earl, who died in 1442; and Earl Robert was succeeded by his son, John, the seventh Earl, who dying in 1460, was succeeded by his son, John, the eighth Earl, who died in 1508, leaving one son and one daughter* The son, John, the ninth Earl, died without issue in 1514, and was succeed- ed by his sister-german Elizabeth, who thus, in her own right, was Countess of Sutherland, and, consequently, was the tenth person who held the title. She married Lord Aboyne, and, dying in 1535, was succeeded by her son, John, the eleventh Earl, who was poisoned at Helmsdale in 1567, and was succeeded by his son Alexander, the twelfth Earl, who died in 1 594. He was succeed- ed by his son, John, the thirteenth Earl, who died in 1615* John was succeeded by his son, also named John, the fourteenth Earl, who died in 1679, and was succeeded by his son, George, the fif- teenth Earl, who died in 1703. Earl George was succeeded by his son, John, the sixteenth Earl He, Earl John, rendered emi- nent services to his country, — in the senate as a Peer, and in the field as a General in the Army, and obtained the Royal authority for adding to his paternal coat of arms, the double Tressure cir'- confeurdelire^ to denote his descent from the Royal family of Scot- land. He died in 1733, and was succeeded by his grandson, William, the seventeenth Earl, who died in 1750, and was suc- ceeded by his son, William, the eighteenth Earl. This last Earl died in 1766, leaving only one infant daughter, the late Duchess- Countess of Sutherland. Her right of succession to the long-de- scended honours and earldom of her direct ancestors, was disput- ed, on the ground that the title did not descend to heirs-female ; but after a long, full, and arduous contest, during the young Countess's minority, the House of Lords, on the 21st day of March 1771, solemnly ^^ Resolved and adjudged, by the Lords Spiritual and Temporal in Parliament assembled. That the claimant, Eliza- beth Sutherland, has a right to the title, honour, and dignity of the Earldom of Sutherland, as heir of the body of William, who was Earl of Sutherland in 1275." The Countess of Sutherland married in 1785, George Granville, Viscount Trentham, eldest son of Granville, first Marquis of Stafibrd, by his second wife. Lady Louisa Egerton, daughter of Scroop, first Duke of Bridge- water. His Lordship was successively, Earl Gower, and Marquis of Stafford, and was created Duke of Sutherland in 1833. The Duchess of Sutherland being also Countess of Sutherland in her 222 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS own right, was the nioeteenth representative of the family who held the title, and which remained with Her Ladyship for the long period of 72 years, 7 months, and 13 days ; she having died in London on 29th January J 839. Her Ladyship was succeeded in the Earldom of Sutherland, by her eldest son, the present George Granville, Duke of Sutherland, K.G., who, thus, is the twentieth Earl of Sutherland, in direct lineal descent, from the first Earl of this long ennobled family. The Duke and Earl of Sutherland is descended, in the pater- nal line, from several ancient and noble families of England : Isty From Sir Allan Gower of Stittenham, — an estate still held by his Grace, — who was Sheriff of York at the period of the Conquest, (1066); and, according to others, from William Fitz-Guhyer of Stittenham, temp. H. H. a. d. 1 167. 2dj From Richard Leve- son of Willenhall, in the county of Stafford, who was grandfather to Richard Leveson, temp. Ed. I., a. d. 1289. 3^ His Grace is also, through his paternal descent, the representative of the Gran- villes. Earls of Bath, and, as such, is descended from Robert, the youngest son of Rollo, first Duke of Normandy. This descent is stated in the first patent of peerage granted to the family by Charles H., which bears, " Whereby he justly claims his descent from the youngest son of the Duke of Normandy, as we ourselves do from the eldest.'^ This descent makes his Grace Count of Corbeil, Baron Torigny, and De Granville. In his father's maternal line, his Grace is descended from the Princess Mary, second daughter of Henry VII. and, as such, would have been a claimant to the throne, had the will of Henry VIII. been carried into effect, (Hallam's Constitutional History of England, Vol. i. p. 316.) In the same line of descent, his Grace is one of the claimants to the ancient barony (in fee) of Lord Strange of Knockyn, now in abeyance among the representatives of Ferdinando, fifth Eari of Derby. His Grace^s father and mother had two descents in common ; the one through two females, descendants of Richard de Abriucis, Earl of Chester, who married respectively into the Derby and Bruce fiimilies ; and through the Scotch line, the late Duke of Sutherland was descended from a daughter of William the Lion of Scotland, through the De Ross of Hamlake. March 1841. ON THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. 223 J i o a a .s I «M O c5 2 S CO I 1 o bo a CO H 11 & I o e 8 5 « e o 3 S a 1 ee *^S IF o ooso o oo»oo o o S" ■T53 — ^ 8^^ o o J o o oo o 09 I I o oooo o o o ooooio o iq 'qu)uoo ■to )a9ms93t U10J.»| od o o ooooio o o oo §82 2 2 2a2«-2 * 8 £S ^ o o "5" ,o oo o o I I o oo O OC4 o «or« *tLMiupq)u lunomv 'p9)S3AUI tanoiny •jaqmnf^ o H 8 JS t£ ^ O ^ ^ ^» O "^O '^J" "^ "^ ,o J OO o ^ o ? ? oo o o o oo ^ S <3D o o o o o S3 I ^ o ^ ^o -^ iji ^ ^ o o o J jwj uisjooqDsl t*09 Ol 00 <-i'^^ t^©l o-i c °4 til 5:22 J JJJJJ J 8 J JO B e » I PRINTED nV JOHN 8TAHK, OLD ASSEMBLY CLOSK, EDINDUBGII. INDEX. Achumore, spring at, 107 Agriculture and rural economy, 8| 19, 36, 52. 63, 74, 97, 113, 129, 158, 178,203 Agriculture of the county, general re- marks on, 218 Antiquities, 33, 50, 71, 93, 1 1 1 Arch, natural, on Seal Isluid, 167 Ardvrack castle, ruins of, 111 Arkle mountain, 119 Assynt, parish of, 105 — loch, 107 Ayalanche in Edderachillis during 1838, 121 Aurora borealis, appearance of, during the day, 86 Badan loch, 137 Balnakiel house, 94 Balvraid loch, drainage of, 8 Ben-a-Bragidh, 24 Ben Clyhric, 58, 66 Ben Hope, 83 Ben Horn, 150 Ben Hutig, 165 Ben Laoghal, 165 Benmore, 105 Ben Stac, 119 Ben Ormin, 150 Black water, the, 151 Bonar bridge, 20-— village of, 20 Borgie water, the, 69, 170 Borley loch, 87 Botany, 49, 70, 90, 108, 125, 138, 172, 196 Brora loch, 150 — river, 48, 151 — vil- lage, 161 Calda house, ruins of, 111 Cam loch, the, 107 Camisendiknbay, anchorage of, 87 Cape Wrath, lighthouse on, 94 Capley water, the, 17 Camaig water, the, 3 Carrol rock, the, 149 Castle Cole, remains of, 154 Castle Varrich, promontory of, 166 Cave, artificial, at Kintradwell, 201 Caves in Assynt, 106— in Farr, 67— at Smo and Tresgill, 85 Chapels, ancient, in Loth, 201 Choaric island, 86 Cholera, appearance of, at Golspie, 45 — in Helmsidale, 192 SUTHERLAND. Churches, see Ecclesiastical Statistics Climate, see Meteorology Clyne, parish of, 149 — improvements in, 162 Coal, discovery of, at Clashmore, 3 — workings at Brora. 152 Corrie, Druidical remains at, 50 Craggie loch, 48 Craig bar, remains at, 154 Craig-Bhokie and Craig-Boddich, re- markable cliffs of, 191 Craspul loch, 87 Criech, parish of, 17 — lochs in, 17 Crona, island of, 106 Cuniack mountain, 105 Danes, invasion and defeat of the, in 1259, 1— defeat of, at Drinleah, 18 Danish remains in parish of Farr, 71 Davy, Sir Humphry, sketch of the geo- logy of Clyne by, 151 — and Golspie, 26 Decrease of population, causes of the, 73 Defeat of the Earl of Cromarty in 1745, 199 Dempster of Skibo, family of, 4 Dinard loch, 87 — water, 88 Dim loch, 169 Dornoch, tradition regarding the origin of the name, 1 — parish of, 1 — frith, 3— town, 6, 1 1 — cathedral, 12 Doune hill, vitrified^fort on, 18 Drinleah, defeat of the Danes at, 18 Dniidical circle near Morvich, 34 — re- mains at Corrie, 50 — at Clachtoll, 1 1 1 Druim-na-Coup, battle of, 176 Drumderg, battle of, 191 Duffus, Lord, 4 Dun Domigill, ruins of, 93 Dunrobin castle, with view, 34 — glen, 24 Durness, parish of, 82 — immense for- mer extent of, 82 — subdivisions of, 83 Ecclesiastical statistics, 12,21, 41, 54, 64,76, 102, 115,132, 148, 160, 181, 209 — general view of, 223 Edderachillis, parish of, 118— subdivi- sions of, 119 Education, 14, 22, 42, 55, 64, 77, 102, 116, 132, 148,161,182,210 Q 226 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. k EriboU loch, 87 Evlix river, 3 Farr, parish of, 66 — changes in, 79 Farralarie loch, 25 Fisheries, herring and sea, 11, 39, 75, 99, 129, 195, 204 Fisheries, salmon, 20, 39, 49, 75, 99, 139, 159, 179, 195. 204 Fleet water, the, 25, 47, 48— mound of, 40 Flodden, march of the Caithness men to, and superstition derived therefrom, 198 Freasgail, caves of, 167 Freestone, see Quarries Friendly society, 15 Fuel, 16, 43, 56, 133, 184 Garvellan Island, 85 General observations on the county, 212 Geology and mineralogy, 3, 17, 25, 48, 58, 69, 88, 108, 122, 138, 151, 170, 193 Gillander*s cave, 25 Gizzing Briggs, the, 2 Glencul loch, 121 Glendhu loch, 121 Golspie, parish of, 24 — bum, 24 — ruins of old church, 33— viUage, 39 Gordon of Embo, family of, 4 Gordon, Sir Robert, his history of the Sutherlands, 4 Griam-more mountain, 136 Gun, history of the clan of, 140 Hallodale river, 214 Handa isle, with geological sections, 120 Helmsdale, strath of, 134 — river, 135, 137 — ^village, 208— -herring fishery, history of, 204 Herring, see Fisheries Hoan island, 86 Hope loch, 87 — ^water, 87 Horn loch, 25 House of Tongue, the, 176 Houses of SuUierland, old and new con- trasted, 123 Husbandry, systems of, 10, 19, 38, 75, 98 Die river, 137 Inchard water, 120 Inns, 16, 23, 43, 56, 79, 117, 184 Inver loch, 108 Inverkiikaig, waterfidl of, 108 Ishour loch, 87 Islandt artificial, in loch Brora, 155 Juno, wreck of the, 60 KeanloGhbervie, quoad sacra parish of, 118 Kei^ feud between the, and the Guns, 14S KjHft MMiufiMtory, 100— decrease of, MkOly CMctde of, 151 Kilkalmkill or Carrol, family of, 31 Kildonan, parish of, 133 Kinloch water, 170 Klett island, 106 Kyle of Durness, the, 86 Kyle of Scow, the, 108 Lairg, parish of, 58 Language, character, &c. of the popula- tion, 7, 35, 51, 63, 74, 95, 112, 128, 156, 177, 202 Laoghal loch, 169 Laxford water, 120 Libraries, 61, 182 Lighthouse at Cape Wrath, 94 Little Ferry estuary and harbour, 2, 41 Live-stock, breeds of, 10, 28, 37, 53, 98, 130 Lochinver, viUage of, 114 Lochs— Badan, 137— Boriey, 37— Bro- ra, 150— Cam, 107— Craggie, 48— Craspul,87— Dinard,87— Dini, 169— EriboU, 87— Farralarie, 25— Glencul, 121— Glendhu, 121— Hope, 87— Horn, 25 — Inver, 108 — Ishour, 87 — Laoghal, 169 — Lundie, 25 — Maedie, 169— Moir, 120, 122— Monar, 72— Na-cuen, 137 — Naver, 68— Sabichie, 25— Shin,58— Stac 120, 122— Stra- thy, 68 — various, in Kildonan, 137 Loth, parish of, 18&--gleD of, 191— Te- mains in, 191 Lundie loch, 25 Mackay, notices of the dan of, 72 — Ge- neral, 93— Hugh, 60— Rev. John, 59 Mackenzie, Rev. William, 174 Macleod, Angus, tradition regarding. 111 Madeod of Assynt, fiunily of, 110 Macleod, the betrayer of Montrose, 109 Macpherson, Professor, birth-place of, 32 Maedie loch, 169 Manganese ore, found at Rosehall, 17 Marble quarries at Ledbeg, 114 Meteorology and climate, 2, 25, 47, 68, 86, 106, 120, 136, 168, 192 Mineralogy, see Geology Moir loch, 120, 122 Monar loch, 72 Montrose, betrayal of, 109 — confine- ment of, in Skibo castle, 6 Moray Frith, 193 Mound of Fleet, the, 40 Mountains — Arkle, 119 — Ben ^Bra- gidh, 24— Ben Qybric, 58, 66— Ben Hope, 83— Ben Horn, 150 — Ben Hutig, 165— Ben More, 105— Ben Ormin, 150— Ben Stac, 119— Cu- itiack,105— Griam>more, 136 — Laog- hal, 165 — Morvich, 24 — Sugarloaf, 106 Muuro, Sir Hector, 31 Murray, Bishop Gilbert, 12 Naver loch 68 — water, 69 INDEX. 227 Novar, family of, 31 Oldney island, 106 Ofd head, the, 190 Oykill river, 17, 214 Pauperifon, see Poor Picdsh forts at Dunrobin, 34— in Helms- dale, 146 Plantations and planting, 9, 19, 53, 74 Poor, management of the, 15, 23, 43, 56, 65, 79, 103, 117, 133^ 148, 183, 210 Population returns, 6, 18, 35, 51, 62, 72, 95, 112, 128, 147, 155, 176, 201 Population, language, &c. of, see Lan- guage — causes of decrease in» 73 Port Gower, village of, 208 Prison of Dornoch, 15 Quarries, freestone, 3, 11, 38, 159 Rabbit islands, the, 167 Reay, family of, 173 Rent, rates of, 36, 98, 130, 179 Rheumatism, prevalence of, in Golspie, 25 Rbiaos water, 170 Rispond harbour, 100 Rivers and bums — Blackwater, 151 — Borgie, 69, 170— Brora, 48, 151— Capley, 17 — Camaig, 3--Dinard, 88 — EvIjx, 3— Fleet, 25, 47— Gol^ie, 24— Hallodale,214— Helmsdale, 135, 137— Hope, 87— lUe, 137— Inchard, 120 — Laxford, 120— -Naver, 69— Oykill, 17, 214— Rhians, 170— Shin, 17— Strathey, 69 Roads and bridges, 21, 39, 53, 180 Rob Donn, the Gaelic bard, 93 Rogart, parish of, 46 Saint's island, the, 167 Salachie loch, 25 Salmon, see Fisheries Salt pans at Brora, 152 Savings banks, 15,78, 115, 132, 162, 183 Schools, see Education Sculomy, creek of, 168 Seal ishind, the, 167 Shin water, 17 — ^loch, 58 Silver rock, the, 24 Skelbo casUe, ruins of, 6 Skibo castle, confinement of Montrose in, 6 Sku, Kyle of, 108 Smo cave, 84 Sova, island of, 106 Spinningdale, village of, 20 Springs, chalybeate, at Achnaraoin, 138 Stac loch, 120, 122 Strathachvaich, 2 Strathbrora, 47, 149 Strathcaimaig, 2 Strathfleet, 46 Strathnaver, 67 Strathy, church at, 76 — ^loch, 68— water, 69 Stronchrubie, remains at, 112 Sugarloaf mountain, the, 106 Sutherland, notices of the family of, 5, 29,219 Sutherlandshire,general observations on, 212 — mountains of, 214 — drivers, 214 lakes, 216 Talmuie bay, 168 Tides at Cape Wrath, 87 Tober Massan, well of, 91 Tongue, parish of, 164 — bay, 168 TorquiPs cave, 25 Torrisdale bay, 168 Tradition regarding Earl of Suther-^ land, 1 Tresgiil, caves at, 85 Tubemach loch, 150 Tumuli in parish of Lairg, 62 Varrich castle, ruins of, 175 Vitrified fort on hUl of Criech, 18 Wages, rates of, 10, 36, 75, 98, 130, 179 Zoology, 3, 25, 49, 70, 89, 123, 138, 152, 171, 195 PRINTED BY JOHN STARK, OLD ASSEMBLY CC08E, EDINBUBOII. CONTENTS. BOWER, • • • PAGE 114 CANI8BAT, 21 DUN NET, • • • 34 HALKIRK, 68 LATHERON, • • t 83 OLRICK, 59 RBAY, • • • 12 THURSO, 1 WATTEN, • • • 49 WICK, 117 % f ! } PARISH OF THURSO.* PRESBYTERY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. W. R. TAYLOR, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. ^am^.— The name of this parish is taken from that of the river which runs through it. It is made up of the words Thor^ the name of one of the great northern deities, and aa^ which, in the Icelandic dialect, signifies a river ; and so means Thorns river. Extent and Boundaries. — The mean length of the parish is about 7 miles, and the breadth about 4f , and the area about 34 square miles. It is bounded on the north, by the sea ; on the west, south, and east, by the parishes of Reay, Halkirk, and 01« rig respectively. Its form is that of an irregular quadrilateral figure. Topographical Appearances, — It rises by a gentle acclivity from the sea shore, and in no part attains to any very great elevation. It presents various irregularities and undulations on its surface ; but, speaking generally, the land is flat The coast, which ex- tends about eight miles, is in general rocky, though, in some parts, especially near the town of Thurso, it is flat and sandy. The bay of Thurso, which forms the coast of the parish of Olrig and part of that of Dunnet, forms about five miles of the coast of this pa- rish ; and, as seen from the town and neighbourhood, presents a very beautiful and striking appearance. It is included within the promontories of Dunnet-head, (the most northerly land in Scot- land), situated in the parish of Dunnet on the east, and of Hoi- burn-head, situated in this parish, on the west Holburn-head, the only head-land in this parish, is about two miles to the north-west of the town of Thurso. At the extremity of this headland, there * Compiled by the Rev. W. R. Taylor, Minister, assisted by Hugh Davidson, Esq. Chief Magistrate of Thurso, who furnished the chief part of Head IV. CAITHNESS. A 2 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. is a remarkable insulated rock, called the Clett, about 480 feet long, 240 feet broad, and 400 feet high, and 'distant from the land about 240 feet. This rock is considered a great curiosity, and is frequently visited by strangers. In the sunnnner months, it is co- vered with flocks of sea-fowl ; and this adds considerably to its striking and interesting appearance. Climate. — It is stated in Henderson's View of the Agriculture of Caithness, that for three-fourths of the year, viz. from Septem- ber to June, the wind generally blows from the west and north- west ; and that, during the other fourth of the year, it is variable from south-west to south-east, and is but seldom northerly. The climate is healthy, though variable. During a great part of the year, the air is keen and piercing ; but in summer there is a good deal of inild and warm weather. Hydrography. — There are two small rivers in the parish. The principal river in the parish and in the county, is the river Thurso, from which the parish takes its name. It rises in the heights of the parish of Halkirk, an^ong the hills bounding Sutherland, and after reaching this parish traverses it from south to north, and flows into the sea in the immediate vicinity of the town. Its length is about thirty miles, and its greatest breadth about 100 yards. It adds much to the beauty of those parts of the parish through which it flows, at least, as much as can consist with unwooded banks. The other stream in the parish, and the fourth in size in the county, is the Water of Forss. It rises in the parish of Reay, and after reaching this parish divides it from that of Reay, forming the boundary between them, and flows into the sea at Cross-kirk Bay, near the House of Forss. Geology. — The principal rocks in the parish belong to the so- called old red sandstone. The general direction of the strata is from north-east to south-west. The dip on the shore of Thurso is north-west, and the inclination about twenty degrees. In some of the quarries inland, the dip is south-east. The soil consists chiefly of clay and loam, resting on sandstone flag and slate-clay rock. Zoology. — The chief kinds of fish in the bay of Thurso are, had- dock, cod, herring, and salmon. The herring appear in May, and continue until August. The salmon would go up the rivers to spawn in August, but are prevented till the 14th of September, until which time the rivers are shut. It is considered injurious THURSO. .3 that the rivers are not open sooner, as the number of spawning fish is thus reduced. The spawning fish return to the sea about the month of April. The principal Crustacea found in the bay of Thurso are lobsters, II. — Civil History. Sir John Sinclair mentions that there is an account of this pa- rish in Macfarlane's Geographical Collection, preserved in the Advocates' Library ; but it is presumed that the account drawn up by Sir John himself, and contained in his Statistical Account of Scotland, is the fullest that has ever been written. With regard to the ancient history of Thurso, Sir John ob- serves that the town appears to have been a place of very consi- derable trade and consequence, many centuries ago ; and, in proof of this, states, that, according to Skene's account of the assize of David, King of Scotland, the weight of Caithness was ordered to be observed in buying and selling over all Scotland ; which could not, he thinks, have been the case, had not Caithness been dis- tinguished for the extent of its commercial transactions, of which Thurso was probably the centre. It was not, however, till the year 1633, that Thurso was erected into a free burgh of barony. The only other events connected with its history, which Sir John considers worthy of being recorded, are the two following: In the reign of Charles the First, it was visited by the Earl of Montrose ; and in the spring of 1 746, a band of rebels, under Lord M'Leod, marched into the county, but returned without doing more than obliging the landholders to pay them part of the land-tax, and were, on their return, attacked and worsted near Dunrobin Castle. There is a small map of the parish prefixed to Sir John Sinclair's Account. Eminent Characters. — Of the eminent characters connected with the parish by birth or residence, the name of Sir John Sin- clair of Ulbster, author of the former Statistical Account, whose patriotic and indefatigable labours for the welfare and improve- ment of his country, and of his native county in particular, are so well known, claims special notice. Nor would it be right to omit the names of his three daughters; — Miss Hannah Sinclair, the writer of a short but very admirable letter on the Principles of the Christian Faith ; Lady Colquhoun, who has written two or three pious works of a plain and practical, but very attractive character; and Miss Catherine Sinclair, who has already given to the world 4 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. several volumes of tales and travels, and has distinguished herself as a very elegant and lively, as well as instructive writer. Sir John, in his account of eminent characters, states, that the Os- walds of Glasgow, who were eminent merchants there, were ori- ginally from Thurso; and that Richard Oswald, merchant in London, and one of the plenipotentiaries from Great Britain in settling the peace in 1783, was an unsuccessful candidate, upon a comparative trial, for the office of schoolmaster of Thurso. He makes mention also of a Mr Mcintosh, son of a schoolmaster in Thurso, who became an eminent portrait painter in Moscow ; and of two young ladies of the name of Liddell, natives of Thurso, who had removed to Edinburgh, who showed a great turn for mu- sic and painting, and attained to considerable eminence in the latter art Chief Land'oumers. — The chief land-owners in the parish, be- sides the Crown, which possesses the lands of Scrabster, are. Sir George Sinclair of Ulbster, the present excellent and accom- plished Member for the county ; James Sinclair, Esq. of Forss, who is constantly resident, and who deserves much commendation for his anxiety to provide the young on his estates with the means of a proper education ; Sir John Gordon Sinclair of Murkle, and Sir Patrick Murray Thriepland of Fingask. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers, including the Session records, extend to seven volumes, of about 600 folio pages each. The first entry is in 1648^ Antiquities, — About half a mile to the west of Tliurso, in the centre of the crescent-formed bank which skirts the bay, stand the ruins of an old castle, beautifully situated on the sea, once the residence of the bishops of Caithness. Scarcely any of the build- ing remains, but it appears to have been a place of considerable size and strength. About two miles to the east of the town, is the burial place of Earl Harold, the possessor at one time of the half of Orkney, and Zetland, and of the half of Caithness, who was slain in battle in the year 1 190, while endeavouring to recover his property from the hands of a tyrant, the wicked Earl Harold. Over his grave the late Sir John Sinclair, on the suggestion of Mr Alexander Pope, minister of Reay, one of the greatest anti- quaries in the north, erected an edifice, called Harold's Tower, which, as seen from a distance, possesses somewhat of a striking appearance. THURSO. 5 Modem Buildinffs.^^The principal modern building in the pa- rish is the parish church, which is a very handsome structure, and a great ornament to the town. It cost about L. 6000. IIL — Population. The population of the parish, as given in the account of the parish already referred to, as preserved in the Advocates' Library, was 2200, 900 in the town of Thurso, and 1300 in the rest of the parish. The date of this account is not known. In 1755, the po- pulation was 2963; and at the date of Sir John Sinclair's Account in 1798, it was 3146. In 1831, the population was 4679, of which 2124 were males, and 2555 females. The number of the popu- lation residing in the town of Thurso in 1831 was 2429, and in the country, 2250. The yearly average of births for the last seven years was about 140, and of marriages about 16. The num- ber of persons under 15 years of age is about 1600. There are very few individuals or families of independent for<- tune residing in the parish. There are no proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 or upwards, except those already men- tioned as the chief land-owners in the parish. Thej are five in number. The number of families in the parish in 1831 was 1036, 696 in the town, and 440 in the country. The average number of children in each family is two, or rather less. The number of inhabited houses was in 1831, 739; 367 in the town, and 372 in the country. There were 17 houses uninhabited or building in 1831. There are 2 insane persons, 4 fatuous, 2 blind, and 2 deaf and dumb. The language generally spoken is the English. The Gaelic IS spoken by a few, but it is yearly losing ground. The ordinary food of the labouring classes consists of meal in its various preparations of bread, pottage, brose, and gruel ; milk, potatoes, and herring. Character of the People. — The general character of the people, intellectual, moral, and religious, no doubt requires great improve- ment ; yet, as compared with that in other parts of Scotland, it is rather above than below mediocrity. The bulk of the people are quiet and orderly, and manifest considerable regard for religion and religious services. Neither poaching nor smuggling prevails to any great extent. The number of males employed in agriculture is . . 386 employed in manufactures and in retail trade and bandicrafl, 402 6 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. The number of professional persons and other educated men, . • ^^ of labourers not agricuUaraly . • 218 of other males, • • * . ^' of male servants, of whom only three are above 20 years of age, is 13 of female servants, ..... 254 IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of acres, standard imperial measure, which are either cultivat- ed or occasionally in tillage, is about . 12,000 The number of acres which have never been cultivated, 10,000 The number that might, with a profitable application of capital, be added to the cultivated land of the parish, . . . 7000 There is no undivided common. . The number of acres under wood is 40. The trees planted are, plane, fir,, ash, elm, oak, and mountain-ash : the management of which is on the whole tolera- bly good. Rent. — The average rent of arable land in the parish is L. 1 per acre. The average rent of grazing is at the rate of L. 2 per ox or cow grazed, and 6s. 6d. per ewe or full-grown sheep pas- tured for the year. Wages. — The rate of labour for farm-labourers is Is. 6d. per day, and for country artisans from 2s. to 3s. The rate of mason- work is L. 2 per rood. Live-Stock. — The common breed of sheep are the Leicester and Cheviot, and of cattle the Highland and Teeswater ; to the improvement of both of which much attention has been paid. Husbandry. — The most approved system of husbandry pursued is that called the five crop shift, being a rotation of turnips, bear, bay, pasture, and oats. Great improvements are taking place in the reclaiming of waste lands, and in draining, which is practised to a considerable extent on the most improved farms, and is yearly extending to others. Leases. — Leases generally extend from seven to nineteen years in the larger description of farms. The smaller farms are in ge- neral occupied without leases to the great injury of the land, and also of the tenant. Farm-buildings are improving rapidly, and are in general in a comfortable state. Tnclosures are increasing, but not in the same ratio. The principal improvements which have recently been made in the parish consist in the dividing, draining, and enclosing of com- mons, and in the building of comfortable cottages for the settlers on their respective^ lands. The great want of capital may be stated as the principal obsta- THURSO. t cte to improvement. To this are to be added the low price of farm produce, and the want of leases. Quarries, — There are in this parish sev.eral slate, freestone, and whinstone quarries. The slate quarries have been for some vears extensively worked, and the flags which they furnish have been exported to London, Newcastle, and Glasgow, and other cities, and towns in England and Scotland, where they have been used for pavement. About 250 men are employed in dressing these flags. Fisheries. — The principal fisheries carried on in the parish are, the herring, salmon, haddock, cod, and lobster. The salmon fish- ings rent at L. 1000, the others are free. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : — Produce of grain of all kinds, . . L. 28000 potatoes, turnipsi &c. . • . 6000 hay, . . 4000 land in pasture at L. 1, 10s. per cow or ox, and 58. per ewe, . 5000 gardens and orchards, . 200 thinnings of woods, • . . . 5 fisheries, . . . . 5000 quarries, . . . . 2000 miscellaneous proJuce, . . . 2000 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L. 52,205 Manufactures. — The manufacture of straw-plait employs about 58 females; the manufacture of leather 15 men, and a rope-work 12. Linen and woollen manufactures, and the manufacture of her* ring nets, occupy about 200 persons. Navigation. — There are 14 ships or vessels belonging to the port. The number trading to the port, but not belonging to it, is about 40. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town. — The town of Thurso is the only market-town in the parish. It is pleasantly situated on the sea at the mouth of the river which bears its name. It commands a very noble and extensive sea-view, comprising, first, the beautiful bay of Thurso, included within the two commanding headlands of Dunnet and Holburn ; next, the more exposed and stormy waters of the Pent* land Frith ; and beyond, the islands of Orkney with their lofty and rocky sides, terminating westward in the majestic promontory of Hoy. Thurso lays claim to considerable antiquity. As already stated, it was a place of some consequence several centuries ago. The 8 CAITHNBSS-SHIRE. old church, which was ODly quitted as a place of worship in ISSS, and which contained 900 sitters, was said to be upwards of 500 years old. The town is made up of an old and a new town united together. The new town is built according to a regular plan ; and though this cannot be said of the old town, yet it contains a few regular streets, and some good and substantial houses. The new town is yearly increasing in size. The present population of the town is, as has been stated al- ready, upwards of 2400« It has three magistrates, nominated by the superior of the burgh, Sir George Sinclair. Means of Commtmicatian, — The ordinary means of communica- tion are enjoyed by the parish. There are good roads and a daily mail coach to and from the south. Three times a week there is a coach between Thurso and Tongue. There are two sailing vessels from Thurso to Leith, and, except during the winter months, there is weekly a steam-boat from Wick to Leith. To Wick, which is twenty-one miles from Thurso, the mail-coach travels daily, performing the journey in two hours and a half. Thurso is a post-town, and has a daily dispatch and arrival to and from the south. It is itself the most northern post-town in Great Britain. There is a post three times a week to and from Tongue and the places intervening, on the west, and a daily post to and from Castleton and Dunnet on the east The turnpike road along the coast of the parish from east to west is eight miles and a half long, of which three miles are to the east of the town, and five mile&and a half to the west Besides this road, there is the mail and all in good condi- THURSO. 9 tion. The principal is that over the river Thurso, at the entrance to the town from the south and east This bridge is a very large and substantial and ornamental one. It was not in existence at the time of Sir John Sinclair's Account, in which much is said of the great inconvenience felt by the want of a bridge. It is diffi-^ cult to imagine now, how this want could have been so long borne. There are not many fences in the parish ; but where they are to be found, they are generally in good condition. There is a harbour at Thurso at the mouth of the river, where vessels of twelve feet draught land and lie in safety. Scrabster Roads, within the bay of I'hurso, distant about a mile from the town, affords good and safe anchorage for vessels of any size ; and it is at present in contemplation to erect a pier there. Ecckriastical iS/a/e.— The parish church has been already spoken of as a very handsome structure. It is situated in the town of Thurso, which, considering the number of people in the town, is manifestly the most convenient place for its erection. It is dis- tant three miles from the eastern extremity of the parish, and six from the southern and western extremities. On the north it is within a quarter of a mile from the sea. It was built in 1632, and opened for public worship in January 1833, and is, as might be expected, in a good state of repair. It affords accommodation for 1540 persons. There are but 32 free-sittings set apart for the use of the poor. The manse was built about the year 1770, and was repaired in 1831. The giebe consists of about 7 or 8 acres, and may be of the yearly value of L.15. The stipend is 18 chalders standard imperial measure, half meal,, half barley. There being no barley fiars struck in the county, the barley is paid according to the fiars' price of bear. LilO are allowed for communion elements. There is no place of worship in the parish attached to the Esta-^ blishment, except the parish church. There is no missionary in the parish. There is a catechist sup- ported by the people, with the aid of a small salary from the So- ciety for Propagating Christian Knowledge. The office has been for some time vacant, but a new appointment is about being made. There is a meeting-house in the town belonging to a congrega* 10 CAITHNESS-SUIRE. lion of Original Seceders. There is also an Independent chai)el. A small Baptist congregation assembles in a room in a private house. The ministers of these places of worship are paid by their hearers. ' There is no Episcopalian or Roman Catholic chapel in the parish. The number of families attending the Establislied Church may be about 800, and the number of individuals about 2400. The number of families attending the other places of worship may be about 200, and the number of individuals about 600. Some of these are from other parishes. The average attendance in ordinary weather at the parish church is from 1400 to 1500; and at the Dissenting places of worship 500. The number of communicants connected with the Established Church is about 300. There is a Bible Society in Thurso, supported by Christians of all denominations, which collects about L. 30 annually. There is a Parochial Association for support of the Assembly's schemes, whose funds, except for Church Extension, are derived wholly from collections at the church door. The sum collected may also average about L. 30 per annum. This is independent of an an* nual sum of L. 38, subscribed for church extension for five years, and which has already been paid for one year. There is a Society in the parish for the relief of the destitute sick, supported by Christians of all denominations, whose receipts may average L.15 annually. The average amount of collections at the parish church for re- ligious and charitable objects, including the L. 30 already specified, and including also the ordinary collections for the poor, is about L.120. Of this sum the ordinary collections for the poor make up L. 80. Education. — The number of schools in the parish is about 16, viz. 1 parochial, 12 unendowed, 2 supported by societies, and 1 by subscription. Besides these, an Assembly school is about being opened. In many of these schools only English reading is taught. In others, are taught reading, writing, and arithmetic, and in female schools, sewing ; and in a few, the usual higher branches. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is the maximum. The THURSO. 11 salaries of the Society teachers are L.15 and L.12. The promised salary of the Assembly teacher to be appointed is L. 20. With the exception of the parish school and two or three others, the amount of fees is very small. The parochial teacher possesses the legal accommodations. The general expense of education for the year in the parish school, is lOs. for beginners, increasing to L.1, 10s. orL.2forthe more advanced. In inferior. schools, the expense for beginners is about 6s. a-year, and 10s. for the more advanced. In female schools, in which the higher branches are taught, the expense is considerably greater than in the parish school. About 200 children between six and fifteen years of age cannot read ; about 600 cannot write. The whole number of children between six and fifteen is about 950. The number of persons above fifteen who cannot read is about 120. The people in general are alive to the benefits of education, and are anxious to have their children educated. After the Assembly school is opened, there will be no part of the parish so distant from school as to prevent attendance, nor will there be any additional schools required ; but some of the schools in existence are in a very precarious state from the want of any endowment Literature, — There are two circulating libraries in the parish, and two reading-rooms. Charitable and other Institutions. — There is no almshouse, hos- pital, dispensary, or asylum. There are 5 Friendly Societies, the oldest of which has existed about forty years, and the latest about twenty. Their design and tendency are manifestly good, but they are not by any means in a flourishing state. There is no Sa- vings Bank. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 160. The average sum allotted to each is 5s. The annual amount contributed for their relief is about L.112, of which there is collected at the church door L.80; L.25 is voluntarily subscribed by the heritors for the support of two lu- natics ; and L. 6, 18s. is the interest of two sums left as legacies. With a few exceptions the poor do not consider it degrading to apply for parochial relief. Prisons. — The county jail is in Wick. There is merely a lock-up-house in Thurso, where criminals are confined till they be sent to Wick. Within the last year there were five persons 12 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. confined here, three for rioting, and two for theft. The longest period any of them was confined here was ten days. Fairs. — There are three fairs held in the parish, the Peters- mas, in the end of June ; the Oeorgemas, in July ; and the Mary- mas, in the beginning of September. They are intended chiefly for the sale of cattle and sheep. Irrns and Alehouses* — There are 2 or 3 inns and about 30 ale- houses in the parish. These last cannot but have an injurious ef- fect ; but it is hoped both their number and their influence are decreasing. Fuel. — A good deal of English coal is used in the town of Thurso ; but many of the town's people, and all the people in the country, with a few exceptions, consume nothing but peats. These are to be found in abundance in the parish ; and the tenants have a right to take of them at no other cost but that of the time and labour, (which, however, are considerable,) required for cast- ing them and carrying them home. October 1840, PARISH OF REAY. PRESBYTERY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. FINLAY COOK, MINISTER. * I. — Topography and Natural History. Situation, Boundaries, <$-c. — The parish is situated between 58% 36' and 59^ north latitude, and between 2% 59' and 3' 80' west longitude. The greater part of it lies in the county of Caithness. A part, however, denominated Strathalladale, is in the county of Sutherland. Its length is Id miles, and its breadth 9 miles. It is bounded on the east and south-east, by the pa- rishes of Thurso and Halkirk, in Caithness ; and on the west and south-west, by the parishes of Farr and Kildonan in Sutherland. Name. — There are various conjectures respecting the etymoloi- gy of its name. It is supposed to be a corruption of Mein-Reidh, * Drawn up by Mr W. G. Forbes, Parochial Schoolmaster of Reay. REAY. 13 or Miora — two Gaelic terms signifying smooth and plain, that part of the parish particularly named Reay, being smooth and plain, in comparison of the other parts which are in general rug- ged and hilly. But the most probable derivation is, that R^y is a corruption from Urray, the name of a Pictish hero, who inhabited the castle, to this day called Knock«- Urray. The an- cient orthography of the parish was Re, or Rae, but the modern is Reay. It would appear from the fragment of an old poem, for- merly among the northern Highlanders, which was sung in honour of Dornadilla, that Reay was a place of some nolo* The lines are : — « Dun Dornigil MooDuff, A in n*taodb re Miora do n*trath.'* Eng. — ^^ The dun or castle of Dornadilla, the son of Duff, built on the side of the strath next to Reay." But that Reay was anciently a place of consequence appears from a discovery made in 1751. A water^spout which fell in that year five miles above Reay, oc- casioned so great a torrent as to cut out a new channel through the sand between Reay and the shore 16 feet deep> which disco* vered the remains of a town. The ends of seven houses, built with stone, were seen in a line, and the remains of several others, with some pieces of pavement. The stones being of good quality were carried off, and the banks soon falling prevented any farther search. Pieces of earthenware were found among the ruins. Tradition says that Reay was a burgh of regality. A market cross stood there formerly ; but it has now been removed to New Reay. Topographical Appearances. — Its figure, particularly on the south and south-east, is very irregular. There are no mountain ranges. The only considerable mountains are, part of Ben Greim, Ben-na-Bad, Ben Shurery, Ben Radh, and Ben Ruaidh. There are, besides, several hills of considerable height, Knock-na-Barei- bhich, Knock-Sleitiil, and Muillanan Liadh, &c. Strathalladale, lying in the county of Sutherland, presents the appearance of a valley from top to bottom, extending in length eighteen miles. The only flat and low lands lie along the coast. The shore at Borrowston presents a number of small caves; one in particular, into which, when a stone is cast, it emits a hpllow echo- ing sound, resembling that of Gling Glang, which is the name given it by the inhabitants. On the same shore, there is also a strong na- tural arch, covered with green turf, on a level with the adjacent ground, and leading over a chasm about forty feet deep, into which 14 CAITHNESSSHIttE. the tide flows. In Ben Radh there is a cavern said to have been formerly the resort of a gang of robbers, the entrance of which is formed by two natural stone pillars inclining towards each other. There are several other caves of various forms and sizes to the west of Fresgo-Head. The extent of the sea shore is about nine miles, a considerable part of which is clayey, incumbent on a horizontal rock, and its aspect is bold and rocky. The principal bays are those of Sandside and Bighouse, the former of which is about a mile in breadth, surrounded by beauti- ful sandy links, to the extent of about a mile. These links pro- duce excellent pasture, and in them are found great quantities of various kinds of sea-shells. The principal headland is Fresgo- Head at Sandside. Climate, — The atmosphere is dry and healthy. Thunder and lightning, followed by heavy falls of rain, generally occur in the months of June and July. When flashes of lightning are seen m 15 to dO, 807 dO to 50, . 665 50 to 70, 324 upwards of 70, 96 The number of femih'es and individuals of independent fortune residing in Um parish, is • . • . . 6 of bachelors, . .12 of widowers, upwards of 50 -years of age, . 20 of unmarried women, upwards of 45 years of age, • 100 Number of insane in the parish, 2 ; blind, 9 ; deaf, 6 ; dumb, 10, Language^ ^c. — The Gaelic language is still spoken, but has greatly lost ground within these last twenty years. The inhabit- ants are in general industrious, temperate, economical, and very hospitable. Some years ago, the best dress of the women was a blue duffle cloak : now they appear on Sabbath days in silk and muslin gowns, shawls, and straw bonnets. The farmers' wives do not now make those coarse low-priced cloths for the market, which they made formerly, owing to their having no sheep, and the price of wool being high. The ordinary food of the peasantry is oat- cakes, potatoes, fish, milk, and, on particular occasions, they have mutton, beef, &c. They are in general intelligent, moral, and re- ligious. The distress at present existing in the parish, however, is great in the extreme. The most of the parish has been con- verted into sheep-farms, and consequently, the poor people have been ejected from their houses and lands, many of them reduced to indigence and misery, and others necessitated to emigrate to a foreign land. Formerly, smuggling or illicit distillation prevailed very much, — which was attended with very pernicious consequences in regard to health and morals. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — By ancient calculation, the parish contains 271 pennylands of arable ground, at eight acres to each pennyland. The pasture ground unfit for cultivation is very extensive ; but its precise extent has not been ascertained. The average rent of arable ground per acre is L.1 ; ofgrazincr, L. 1, Is. per annum ; for an ox per month, 4s. 6d. ; for a cow from L. 1, is. to L.1, 4s. per annum ; for a ewe, t3s. per annum. 4 RBAT. 19 « fViyes* — Blaid^servants' wages in the half year, from L. 1, 5s. to L.1, lOs^ and men-servants', from L.3 to L.4, 10s. per half year. The prices of provisions are as follow : Beef, 4^. to 5d. per lb. ; mutton, 4d. per do. ; pork, Sd. ; butter, 8d. to lOd. cheese, Sd. to 4d. ; tallow, 5d. to 6d. per lb. ; average price of beans per boll, L. 1 ; oatmeal, 16s. ; geese, from 2s. 6d. to Ss. each ; hens, 8d. to lOd. ; eggs, 8d. per dozen ; salmon, 6d. per lb. ; haddocks, from 6d. to 8d. per dozen. Day labourers in husbandry receive from Is. to Is. 8d. per day without victuals ; carpenters and masons from 2s. 6d. to 3s. per day. Live*Stoch. — The Cheviot breed of sheep are the most com- mon since the introduction of sheep-farming. Our small native breed of sheep is fast decreasing. Our breed of cattle is the black Highland. Prior to the introduction of sheep-farming, improve- ments in agriculture were daily increasing, and still a considerable extent of new land is cultivated from the moor or hill, by Major Jones of Sandside and Captain Macdonald of Shebster. A great part of Major Innes and Captain Macdonald's lands are enclos- ed. The roads have been greatly improved, and bridges built where they were necessary. But the greatest improvement is at Halladale, belonging to the Duke of Sutherland. A new channel, at a vast expense, has been dug for the water, and a high and strong embankment raised to confine the river from flooding an ex- tensive meadow of very excellent pasture, thought to be worth up- wards of L. 200 per annum. Leases. — The general duration of leases is seven, fourteen, nine- teen, and twenty- one years ; but leases are in fact seldom granted, which is a principal obstacle to agricultural improvements, as the tenant^ who may be removed at the will of the proprietor, cannot depend on reaping the benefit of his labour ; he is, therefore, loth to incur expenses in improving his farm. Quarries. — Quarries of freestone have been opened in different parts of the parish, one in particular at Glen-Craggach, from 40 to 50 feet deep, from which large blocks of stone for millstones are extracted. Fisheries. — For several years past we have had a herring- fishery established here, at Portskerray, Sandside bay, and Lybster ; as also salmon-fishing at the same ports. V. — Parochial Economy. The nearest mMI*ket-town is Thurso, which is eleven miles dis- 20 CAITHNESS'BHIRE. tant. The only village is NIbw Reay. A maiWoach runs be- tween Thurso and Tongue, and passes here every alternate day ; and there is a post-office at Reay and at Melvich, A very neat and commodious harbour has lately been built in the bay of Sandside by Major Innes, on which upwards of L. dCMM) hUve already been expended. While it encourages and promotes trade and commerce, it is also of great advantage to the herring- fishing. Etcltsiastical State. — The parish church was built in 1739, is at present in good repair, and conveniently situated for the greater pari of the population. It affords accommodation for 650 sitters. All the sittings are free, except in one gallery, built out of the poor's fund, and rented for behoof of the poor of the parish. The manse was built in 1788. The extent of the glebe is from 6 to 7 acares. It lies at a mile's distance from the manse, and lets at L.5 Sterling, but there isalso a small croft contiguous to the manse, which may be worth about L.2* The amount of stipend is 190 bolls, 1 firlot, 2 pecks grain, with L. 60 Scots^ allowance for communion elements. A missionary preaches every third Sabbath at Dispolly in Strathal- ladale, supported partly by the Royal Bounty, and partly by the people. There is a catechist, too, supported in the same manner^ and elected by the kirk-session. We have no Dissenting nor Se- ceding chapels, nor indeed any Dissenters. Divine service on the Lord's-day is well attended. ' Education.'^Tbere are five schools in the parish-^the parochial school at New Reay, an Assembly's school at Melvich, and three supported by individual subscription. The branches of instruction generally taught in them, are^ English reading, writing, arithmetic, and English grammar, and in the parochial and Assembly schoolsi Greek, Latm, mathematics, geography, &c The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is the maximum. The number of young be- tween the ages of six and fifteen years who can neither read nor write is about 54, and the number of those upwards-of fifteen years unable to read or. write is about 200. The people in general are alive to the benefits of education, and there is a great and visible change in their conduct and morals since the diffusion of know- ledge became so general. That pernicious attachment to the drinking of spirituous liquors, which formerly prevailed, has now been in a great measure abandoned. Poor arid Parochial -FimA.— The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is at present upwards of 100, and average CANISBAT. 21 sum allotted each per year, Ss. The annual amount of contribu- .tions for their relief is principally from church collections. There is certainly a disposition among them to refrain from seeking pa- rochial relief; and they do consider it degrading, but sheer ne- cessity urges them to it There are no prisons. Fairs. — Two fairs are held at the cross of New Reay^ one in the beginning of September, and the other in the end of Decem- ber; but very little business is transacted at either. /fii».— -There are four inns or public-houses'; but we are happy to state, that the people are now so far ali?e to the evils of whisky-drinking, and the poverty and misery attendant on in- temperance, as to frequent them but very seldom. Fkd, — The fuel commonly made use of is peat Every one cuts and prepares this for himself. Jufy 1840. PARISH OF CANISBAY. PRESBYTERY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF CAITHNESS AND SUTHERLAND. THE REV. PETER JOLLY, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, Boundaries^ Extenty S^e, — It is difficult to say what is the origin of the name of this parish. Some have supposed it to be a corruption of ^^ Canute's bay.'' Others imagine it to be firom the plant Canna, which seems to have been at one time very abundant in the place. This latter derivation appears the more probable, from the circumstance that in all the older parochial registers the name is spelt Cannasbay. The figure of the parish is on the whole exceedingly regular. It forms the north-east corner of Scotland ; and is bounded on the east, by the German Ocean ; on the north, by the Pentland Frith ; on the west, by the parish of Dunnet ; and on the south, by the parishes of Bower and Wick. From east to west along the Pentland Frith the length is upwards of 8 miles ; and from north to south, where it is washed by the German Ocean, the breadth is nearly 8 miles, but the mean breadth may be estimated at 6 !22 CAITHNESS-3U1RE. miles. The island of Stroma, situated in the Pentland Frith, and about a league distant from the mainland, belongs to the parish. The word Stroma is supposed to be of Danish or Norwegian ori^ gin, and signifies the island in the current Stroma contains about a square mile of surface ; thus the whole extent of the parish may be stated at about 50 square miles. Canisbay is remarkably level The Ward or Watch hill is the only eminence of any moment in the parish. Its height above the level of the sea may be about 800 feet. The principal headlands are Grey-head, Skirsa-head, St John's or Mey*head, and Duncansbay^head. The last mentioned head- land, the Berubium of Ptolemy, from which the shore runs nearly due west and due south, is decidedly the most beautiful promontory in the north of Scotland. It is about two miles in circumference, and is indented by several large ravines or ffoes^ as they are here termed. It contains one remarkable fissure open down to the level of the sea, into which the tides ebb and flow through an opening at the base of the intervening rock. It has a natural bridge across of alu>ut six yards wide, which is called by the inhabitants, the gbq^ In the west end of the island of Stroma there is a similar chasm about thirty yards from the precipice. The sea has access to it also by an opening at the bottom ; and the natives of the island are in the habit of descending into the chasm, (a task which is not extremely difiicuU to accomplish,) and of going out at the entrance below, and of fishing from the rocks. The coast on the east side is bold and precipitous ; on the north it is more level, though in different places the rocks are of considerable altitude. Near Duncansbay Head are two insulated rocks of an oval form, surrounded by the sea, called the Stacks of Duncansbay. They shoot up fantastically.to a great height. One of them is considerably larger than the other : and when seen froni a little distance, they look like the huge spires of some old Gothic edifice. During the spring and summer months they form the rendezvous of innumerable sea fowl ; and on the top of the larger stack the eagle has its eyrie. The only bays are, Freswick bay on the east ; and Duncansbay and Gills bays on the north. Along Freswick bay, the beach is composed principally of sand, a mixture of sandstone and shells. The beach at Duncansbay is altogether of broken shells. At Gills, he beach consists of flat rocks interspersed with shingle. There is a sandy beach at Huna, a mixture of shells and sand* stone, but scarcely any thing deserving the name of a bay. CANISBAT* 23 Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere is milder than might be expected in this high latitude. The summers arc not very warm, nor the winters very cold. This may be attributed to the flatness of the surface, and to the sea bordering on so great a part of the parish. The most prevalent winds are from the west and south-west. After the autumnal equinox, there commonly falls a great quantity of rain for the subsequent six months. The weather, on the average of the year, may be described as moist and variable, rather than tempestuous. The aurora borealis is often seen here in great splendour. It begins to be visible in the month of September, and is occasionally of uncommon brilliancy. It has been observed in a few instances to assume a dark purple tinge, which gives it an awfully beautiful and magnificent appear- ance. Climate. — There are no diseases peculiar to the place. The most prevalent distempers are, fever, inflammation, and rheuma* tism. The employments of the greater part of the inhabitants, exposing them to the moisture and variableness of the climatOi may partially account for the predominance of these. Hydrography. — The Pentland Frith separates the Orkney islands from the north of Scotland. It forms a communication between the German and Atlantic Oceans, and is reckoned twenty- four miles in length, and from twelve to fourteen miles in average breadth. At the east end of the frith, stretching from Duncans- bay Head, is a rough and dangerous piece of sea, called the Boars of Duncansbay ; and opposite to St John's Head in Mey, there is also a similar piece of sea, called the Men of Mey. In both places, the tide is very rapid, and the roughness is produced by the collision of different currents. The Men of Mey and the Boars of Duncansbay appear only alternately, the former with the ebb, and the latter with the flood-tide. The current in the Pent- land Frith is said to run at spring-tides nine miles, and in stormy weather ten miles an hour. For about half an hour at the turn of the tide, little or no current is perceptible. North-east from Duncansbay Head, in the eastern entrance of the frith, and about six miles distant, lie the Pentland Skerries. On the larger of the two, a light-house was erected some years ago. It consists of two towers, the one considerably higher than the other, with a stationary light on each. Now that a light-house has been erected on Dunnet Head, at the western entrance of the frith, the navi- gation has become comparatively safe even at night Springs. — There is abundance of fresh water springs in the ^« 24 CAITHNE6S-8HIRE. rish. There are also some mineral springs of the chalybeate kind. The most remarkable of these is one near the old castle of Fres- wick. The loch of Mey is the only loch in the parish ; its cir- cumference may be about a mile and a-half, and its depth is not great. There is no river, — and only a few rivulets or burns, col- lected from the different mosses in the winter season ; the chief of these is the bum of Freswick. Geohgy and Mineralogy. — The rocks in general are composed of a red sandstone, and in some places of a rock resembling grey- wacke. At Quoys there is a little limestone ; and at Mey, on the property of the Earl of Caithness, there is abundance of it to be ob- tained. A light black loan^ with an intermixture of moss, forms the general character of the cultivated ground. The lands of Mey have in some places a mixture of clay. Heath and deep moss, with an occasional patch of rough pasture grass, cover fully nine- tenths of the parish. Zoology. — There are no rare or uncommon animals. At one period, indeed, wolves are said to have existed in the parish. Between Brabster and Freswick, there is a hollow, called Wolfs Bum : the tradition is, that the last wolf seen in Caithness was killed in this particular spot All around the coast, cod are to« lerably numerous : and lobsters also are caught in considerable numbers. Coal-fish, or, as they are provincially termed, euddens^ are at some seasons of the year caught in immense quantities, and are of great use to the poorer inhabitants, as they not only serve for food, but supply plenty of oil for light. 11. — Civil History. Eminent Men. — Under this head we may notice the Rev. John Morison, D. D., for eighteen years minister of this parish. He was the author of several of the paraphrases approved by a Com- mittee of the General Assembly, and appended to the Vevsion of the Psalms used in the Church of Scotland. His are, the 19th, 2l6t, 27th, 2dth, 29th, dOth, and d5th. His versions of the 27th and 28th were said to have been slightly altered by Logan, who was his contemporary and intimate friend. Several effusions of Dr Morison's youthful muse appeared in the Edinburgh Weekly Magazine, under the signature of Mus»us. By the testimony of all who knew him, Dr Morison was an accomplished scholar, and an eloquent preacher. He was a native of Aberdeenshire, and died on 12th June 1798, in the 49th year of his age. Land- owners. — The proprietors are, the Right Honourable the Earl of Caithness ; William James John Alexander Sinclair of GANISBAY. 25 Freswicky at present a minor^ patron of the parish ; and George •Sutherland Sbclair, Esq. of Brabster. Parochial Reffisters.^^The registers commence in 1651) and were r^ularly kept till the Restoration. From that period down to 1706, there are no records of any kind whatever. The only other gap occurs a few years prior to 1747. From this latte)* date down to the present time, the registers have been regularly kept ; all the births and marriages are registered ; the deaths are not . Antiquities.-^This parish seems at one time to have been di- vided into districts, and to have had chapels for religious purposes in each of them. Scarcely a vestige now remains of any of these chapels, but several aged individuals remember to have seen some of thenu They are still known by name. At Mey, on St John's Head, there was one dedicated to St John ; at Freswick, one to St Maddan j at Brabster, one to St Tustan ; at Duncansbay, one to the Virgin Mary, the locality of which is still known by the name of Lady Kirk ; and it is highly probable that what is now the parish church was originally intended only for the use of the adjoining district. At Freswick are to be seen the ruins of an old castle, called Bucholie Castle. It seems to be of very great antiquity. Pennant in his Tour says that it was inhabited by a Danish nobleman of the name of Suenus Asteilf in the twelfth century. It is situated on a high rock, almost surrounded by the sea, and appears to have been a place of considerable strength. On the top of Duncansbay Head, and about fifty yards from the precipice, may be traced the site of a circular building of about twenty teet diameter, which is supposed to have been a watch-* tower, and to have communicated with a similar one on the top of the Warth Hill. The distance from Duncansbay Head to the Warth or Watch Hill is about two miles, and a signal from the one would of course be readily perceived at the other. There are no traces of camps or forts; but from some entries in the Session records it would appear that either Cromwell or some of his officers were in this remote corner. Thus March 29, 1652, ^^ No session holden, by reasone the Inglishe being quarter- ed in the- bounds, the congregation was few in number, and ther was not a sederunt of elders, nather was ther any delinquents charged." Again May 2, 1652, " Ther not being a sederunt, by reasone of a partio of Inglishe horsemen being in our feilds, whilk made the congregation fewer in number, and severall of the elde to be absent." And again, December 30, 1655, ** Adam 26 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. convict of drinking on the Sabbathe, and haveing masking plays in bis house for the Inglishemen, he was ordained to mak publick confession of his £siult the next Sabbatb.^^ As this old register contains some curious entries, I shall quote a few of them. ** December 27, 1652, Ordained yt for mending ye people, ye better to keepe the kirk, a roll of ye names of the families be taken up, and Sabbathlie, yt they be called upon by name, and who bees netted absent sail pay 40d. toties quoties.*' Again same day and date, ^^ Item, Ordained yt if ane elder or other paroshiner be fund drinking in ane ailhouse on the Sabbath day, or extraordinarly on the week-day, who bees net- ted to faill sail pay 40d. for the first fait, and mak publick confession before the congregation, with certification if any be fund to fall therein againe, they sail undergoe higher censure, especially an elder/' Again, ^^ March 4, 1654, For mending the people of Stroma to keepe the kirk better, it was ordained yt no passenger coming over to the kirk sail pay any fraught, and if any yt heve boats stay away they sail pay 3 p. 4d. and others 40d/' This is a most salutary regulation, and, 1 am sorry to say, as necessary now, if it could be carried into effect as it was nearly 200 years ago. I shall only add one other extract It is regarding the appointment of a schoolmaster in this parish in the year 1660, and furnishes a remarkable contrast even with the present very inadequate remuneration of parochial teachers : '^ Oct. 28, ] 660. So few elders remaining as no session culd be holden, yet the minister with them yt were present haveing the consent of the rest, condescended and agreed with Donald Reid Skinner to be schoolmaster at Cannisbey, for teaching the young children that suld be sent to him, and for his paines 5 bolls victuall was pro- mised him in the yeir, whilk he thinking too little yet accepted to undertake the charge, and to enter with all convenient diligence provideing the said 5 bolls victuall be duelie payed, and that he may have furniture of peats to supplie his present need." About a mile and a half to the west of the beautiful promon- tory of Duncansbay Head stood the celebrated John o' Groat's House. Nothing but the site where this once famous building is said to have stood, is now to be discerned. The traditionary story respecting Malcolm, Gavin, and John de Groat having arrived here from Holland in the reign of James IV. of Scotland ; their having purchased the lands of Duncansbay ; their commemorating their arrival by an annual festive meeting, and the ingenious plan which John de Groat adopted of building an octagonal house with CAKISBAT. 27 a corresponding number of doorsy. &c., to prevent all quarrels about precedence among the eight different families or proprietors of that name, among whom the property seems, in process of time, to have been divided ; — is so well known, that it would be superflu- ous to repeat it here. Modem Buildings. — Barrogill Castle, the seat of the Earls of Caithness, has of late received great additions, and is now an ele- gant and commodious residence* The House of Freswick is a large building, but from its not having been inhabited for many years, is in a state of disrepair. The mansion-house of Brabster is situated in an inland part of the parish, and is not now inhabited : its owner, George S. Sinclair, Esq. has lately enlarged the House of West Canisbay, situated on a part of his property near the sea, and rendered it a comfortable residence. - The parish church received a very extensive repair in the years 1832-33. It was newly floored, seated, and roofed. HI. — Population. The population in 1755 was 1481 1801, 1966 1811, 1936 1821, 2128 1831, 2364 1836, 2409 The yearly^average of births for the last seven years, 70 deaths, marriages, . Number of families in the parish in 1831, chiefly employed in agriculture, in trade, mannfactures, or handicraft, 50 The only permanently residing heritor is George Sutherland Sinclair, Esq. of Brabster. The Earl of Caithness occasionally passes a few months at Barrogill Castle. There are only two farms in the parish, with the exception of what the heritors themselves cultivate, that let for more than L.50 per annum. The inhabitants in general rent small possessions, varying from L.] to L.dO per annum. The most common rent is from L. 5 to L. 20. The principal dependence of the people is upon fishing, and, with very few exceptions, all the males fish for themselves and their families. The houses in general are built partly of stones and partly of turf : they are roofed with turf and straw, and contain two apartments. The people are sober and industrious, and, were it not for the excessively high rents, would be contented with their situation and circumstances. There are at present in the parish 2 insane, 3 idiots, 3 blind, 2 deaf and dumb children. 26 13 494 405 yj CAITHNESS-SHIRE. A cowideniWe degree of aciiteness and shrewdness is observ- able anooff the population, and scandalous offences are seldom bMid o£ Tbe language spoken is the common dialect of the k^wJaods of Scotland. Gaelic is not known. Smusffling prevailed at one time to a great extent in the island of Stfoma, and its^ peculiar situation gave it great advantages for tbat illicil trade; but, by the indefatigable exertions of the Excise, it has within the last year or two been entirely suppressed. As misht naturally be expected, the effects of smuggling on the morals of the inhabitants were most pernicious ; and from their being oc* ctsionally detected by the excise, and severely fined, their worldly cjicumstances were materially injured. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The precise number of acres in the parish has never been ascertained. I should think that not more than one-tenth has ever been in a state of cultivation. The arable ground may therefore be estimated at 3200 acres, and the moorland and pasture at 28,800 acres. The latter is in a state of undivided common, and, from the great depth of moss that covers the greater part of it, would be very difficult to bring it into cultivation. The tenants are in the habit of sending their horses, cattle, swine, and sheep during the spring, summer, and autumn months, to pasture on the common nearest their possessions. Re- cently, however, the Earl of Caithness has instituted a process claiming a division of the whole coomions in the parish, the pre- lude, it is to be hoped, of a better system. Rent. — The rent of arable land is high ; little of it being lower than L. 1, and the greater part as high as L.2, 2s. per acre. Till of late years, it was the practice to pay part of the rent in money, and part in victual. The proprietor of the lands of Freswick still re- ceives the rent in this latter manner; but the other two proprietors have converted the victual into money, at the rate of L. 1 per bolL This has proved virtually a very great raising of rent, as none of the tenants have, with the exception of the crop 1838, received more than from 12s. to 18s. per boll for their victual at market. Rate of Wages. — Farm-servants are generally hired for the year, and receive from L.6 to L.6^ with 3 bolls of oatmeal, 3 bolls of barleymeal, and a competent quantity of potatoes, peats, and n^ilk. A day labourer's wages are Is. 6d. in summer, and Is. in winter. Females employed as shearers in harvest receive L. 1, with half a boll of meal, and some potatoes; and males L. 1, 2s. to L. 1, 5s., with (I boll of meal, and potatoes for tlie whole har- CANISBAY. 29 vest A mason's daily wages af e from 128. to 2s. 6d. ; and a car- penter's from 2s. 6d. to Ss. ; and other artisans in proportion. ImpUmentg of Husbandry. — The ploughs now generally in use are made of iron, and cost from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3, and are drawn by two horses. The carts had till lately wooden axles ; now they are seldom to be seen, having almost all been supplanted by iron ones. 'Breeds of Live-stock. — The sheep are in general of a very in- different, and, I suppose, indigenous breed. They are small in size^ and of every shade of colour from black to white. No at- tempts have been made to improve them. They belong to the different tenants, who may have from ten to twenty each. Their wool is short but soft. It is spun by the females in the winter sea- son, and either weaved into blankets or knit into stockings for the use of the family. It is also woven into a kind of cloth here called black-grey, which is made into wearing clothes for the more aged members of the family. The breed of cattle is also very infe- rior. Swine are exceedingly numerous. Every family rears one, and most families two. They grow to a greater size than might be ex- pected from the manner in which they are attended to in their youth, and bring at market from L.l, 10s. to L.2, 10s. The Earl of Caithness, on his farm of Barrogill mains, has a few Cheviots, which answer well. He has also several fine cattle of the Tees- water breed. The proprietor of Freswick has at his farm at Fres- wick some very fine Highland cattle. And George S. Sinclair of Brabster has on his farm several of the Teeswater breed ; and he has lately got a few sheep of a cross between the Leicester and Cheviot, which have hitherto fully answered bis expectations. Husbandry. — With the exception of what the proprietors them- selves cultivate, the land is wretchedly cultivated. Rotation of crops is unknown among the common people. Bear or big, and oats with potatoes for the use of the family, are the only crops to be seen. From the cultivated parts of the parish lying in general along the shore, and, from the great abundance of sea-weed for manure, the crops of bear are good ; but the oat crop is almost always very indifferent The fructifying qualities of the sea-weed seem to be exhausted in one season; and as neither sea- weed nor any other manure is ever laid on the land allotted io the oats, this may account for their inferiority. Leases are seldom granted, and this is a very great obstacle to improvement Little has been done in the way of reclaiming waste land. The 30 CAITHNBSS-SHIRE. proprietors do not attempt it, and the people are deterred by the immediate imposition of rent Some of the tenants are beginning to see the adrantage of sowing turnips and grass ; but the want of all enclosures, and the common practice o( turning at large horses and cattle, whene?er the harvest is gathered, to find provender wherever they can, have hitherto prevented improvement, and till the proprietors enforce a difierent system, will continue to keep this parish b^ind the rest of Scotland in agriculture. The tenants have the houses on their possessions valued at their entry; are obliged to keep them in repair; and at their removal they u»i^ to get allovrance for any improvement m their value durii^j^ the time of their occupancy, and to pay for any depreciation in Y;jiUie: but of late this allowance or compri$ementy as it is here caUedft has been in many instances refused by the proprietors or their agents. No wonder^ theni considering all these unfavour- able circumstances, thnt husbandry is in no very flourishing con- dition, and that the dwelling-houses of the tenantry are far from commodious or comfortable. Fisheries. — There are several boats employed yearly in fishing lobsters for the London market. The crew of each boat consists of two men, and the price received for each lobster is commonly threepence. The whole sum brought into the parish from this source may be estimated at about L.50 Sterling. There are also about thirty large boats of ten tons each, used only for fishing herrings. The crew of each consists of five men. They leave this for Wick and the neighbouring stations in the middle of July, and commonly continue absent from seven to eight weeks. The her- rings caught by them are sold fresh to the different curers. The value of one of these boats, with a full drift of nets, falls little short of L. 100, and the annual average returns to each crew may be stated at from L.50 to L.60 Sterling. iVodttCf.— The average gross amount and value of raw produce raised in the parish for the food of man and the domestic animals, as nearly as can be ascertained, may be stated as follows :«- Grain of all kinds, say T . L.6000 Potatoes, turnips, hay, and pasture, say 1600 liberies, say 1650 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, }i.9250 Mavufactures. — The shores of Canisbay used to yield annually above 100 tons of kelp; but now, from its depreciation in value, scarcely any is made. v.— Parochial Economy. Market'tovms, Sfc. — There is no market-town in theparish. Wick CANISDAY. 31 is the markei-towD of the east end of the parish, being sixteen miles and a^balf distant from the church, and ten miles from the neaiest boundary ; and Thurso, of the west end of the parish, be- ing eighteen miles from the church and twelve miles from the nearest boundary. There are two post-offices, one at Mey and one at Huna. From the fast mentioned, the mail-boat with the Orkney bags crosses the frith three times a week : but, by a recent arrangement, it is intended to cross every lawful day. The distance from Huna to the landing place in Orkney is twelve miles, and the freight of the boat is 10s. ; but a passenger going along with the mails pays only Is. To Huna the mail is conveyed daily from Wick in a gig ; and to Mey there is a runner from Thurso post-office every lawful day ; between Mey and Huna post-offices, a distance of five miles, there is no communication. Boadt. — The length of good and passable turnpike road in the parish is twelve miles. An old road that runs for a considerable distance parallel to the new line, and which passes through the inhabited parts of the parish, is principally used by the parishioners, though in a total state of disrepair. By the Act of Parliament that authorized the new line, the old line also is appointed to be kept in repair, but, I believe, want of funds has hitherto prevented this most desirable object from being carried into effect. A cross road through Brabstermire is very much needed to give the inha- bitants access to the middle of the county. The roads in this pa- rish, as in Caithness, generally present the rather anomalous fact of being almost all parallel to each other, with scarcely a single connecting cross road. Harbours. — Notwithstanding the great number of boats, there is no regularly built harbour. Ecclesiastical State, — The period at which the church was built cannot be ascertained. It received a substantial repair, as was stated before, in the years 1832-3. Previously, the inhabitants had seats of their own, which they claimed as private property ; but since the new seating in 1833, the heritors have divided the sittings accord- ing to their respective valued rents, and let them annually — a sys- tem considered^by the people not only an innovation but an impo- sition. The form of the church is that of a cross : it is as conve- niently situated as it can possibly be, — being six miles and a-half from the one extremity of the parish, and five and a-half from the other. Giving the customary allowance to each sitter, the church 32 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. would let fof 512 sitters, but will accommodate more. There are no free sittings. The manse received an extensive repair at the same time with the church, but cannot be made a comfortable house. The glebe, including garden and stance of manse and offices, is barely 4^ Scotch acres in extent, and may be valued at about L. 8 Sterling. The stipend is 120 imperial bolls of oat-meal ; 87 quarters, 8 bushels barley ; and L. 10 for communion elements. There are no Government churches in the parish ; but to the Gro- vernment church at Keiss, in the parish of Wick, there is annexed a contiguous district of this parish, containing, according to the cen- sus of 1831, exactly 160 individuals. There is no Dissenting place of worship in the parish, unless we give that name to a meeting of a few Scotch Baptists in a room situate at the west end of the parish. From a survey made in the spring of the year 1836, it appears that there are in the parish, quoad sacra, 24 Baptists, and 6 Inde- pendents, who along with their families make in all 77 souls. The members of the Establishment in full communion are 182, and with their families, and such as attend the Established Church but are not communicants, comprehend all the other inhabitants. The parish church is well attended in the summer months, but, from the badness of the roads in^'many places, often indifferently in winter. Education, — The schools are, the parochial school, two sup- ported by the Society in Scotland for Propagating Christian Know- ledge, one subscription school, and two others on the teachers' own adventure. The parochial teacher has the legal accommodations $ :^nd the salary is the maximum, with an allowance of two guineas in lieu of a garden. The usual branches are taught, and the fees are extremely moderate. The total income, including the emolu- ments arising from the office of session-clerk, does not exceed L. 45 per annum. The Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge aU low their teacher at Mey L. 15; and their teacher in Stroma L. 10, with L. 4 to his wife for teaching females to knit and sew. The whole income of each does not exceed L. 24 per annum. The teacher of the subscription school at Freswick receives L.14, but no fees : and the schools on the teachers' own adventure, being in the re- mote and poorer districts, cannot be reckoned as yielding more than fr(3m L.5 to L. 8 each. The branches principally taught in all the schools, are, English reading, writing, and arithmetic. All between six and fifteen«years of age can read, but the females are not com- monly taught to write. There are none upwards of fifteen years of €igc who cannot read, except a very few aged individuals. The CANlSBAY- 33 district most in want of the means of education is the inland part of the parish, where the population is too small to be able to sup- port a teacher, and too remote to benefit by the schools already in existence. LUerature.'^Tvio years ago, Messrs Morison and Andrew Snody, natives of this parish, who left it many years ago, and have prospered in the Jegal profession, made a present of about 100 vo* lumes on religious subjects, as the beginning of a religious library. Mr George Dunnet, merchant in Thurso, also a native of this pa^ rish, has since given five guineas for the same benevolent purpose. The books already obtained are all generally taken out, and, from the care with which they have been selected, must prove of great advantage. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is about 90. The annual allowance to each varies from 6s. to 10s. ; certainly a very trifling sum, but the poor receive it very gratefully, as a small addition to their other means of subsistence. The collections in the church average about L. 14 annually. There are several small mortifications, the inte- rest of which is divided among the poor along with the annual col- lections. There is one legacy by a Mr Oswald of L. 100 ; one of L. 80 by a Mr Innes of South Carolina, son of Mr Innes who was once minister of this parish, and an annuity of 100 merks Scots, left by William Sinclair, Esq. of Freswick. To this, there is to be added interest upon an accumulation of L. 205 of William Sin- clair of Freswick's annuity, which had not been paid for many years. The whole gross income from interest of mortification and arrears, together with the collections in church, amounts annually to about h. 38 Sterling. There is no other fund for the support of the poor, and assessment for the purpose has never yet been made. Fairs. — Two small markets for the sale of horses, cattle, and swine are held in the parish — one in February at Freswick, and the other in December at Canisbay. Inns and Ale-houses. — There are no less than six inns, which have a pernicious influence on the morals and industry of the peo- ple. Half the number would be more than sufficient for all use- ful purposes^ Indeed, Huna inn may be said to be the only one indispensably necessary. Fuel — The only fuel is peat and turf from the mosses, which appear to be inexhaustible. The only expense incurred is the la- bour necessary for cutting, drying, and carrying the fuel home. CAITHNESS. C 34 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. MiSCELLANBOTTS OBSERVATIONS. In conclusion, I cannot say that the general appearance of the parish has materially varied since the last Statistical Account was drawn up. The proprietors have no doubt greatly improved around their family mansions ; but the general aspect of the parish, in an agricultural point of view, has undergone little or no change. The money brought into the parish by the fisheries is all required to answer the demands of the landlords; and a better system of hus- bandry and increased comfort to the labouring classes, cannot be expected till the rents are reduced, and encouraging leases grant- ed as in other places. The undivided state of the common has also proved a great obstacle to improvement. OctoBer 1840. OF DUNNET. PRESBYTERY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. THOMAS JOLLY, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name Dunnet is apparently derived from the Gaelic Dun, signifying hill. The names of many places in the parish are, however, of Danish extraction, as Ratter, Syster, Roaster, Sunnigoe, Ashigoe, Getterigoe, &c. Extent J ^c— -The form of the parish is very irregular, its great- est length being about 12 miles, its greatest breadth 6, and the narrowest point, from Dunnet to Brough, 2^ miles. It is bound- ed on the north and north-east, by the Pentland Frith ; on the east and south-east, by the parishes of Canisbay and Bower ; on the south, by those of Bower and Olrig; and on the south-west and west, by Olrig and Dunnet bay. With the exception of Dunnet-head, the whole parish may be considered a level district, the elevations being trifling, and run- ning in neariy parallel ridges, from north-east to south-west The highest point of Dunnet-head rises about 500 feet above the level of the sea,— the average height of the parish above that level does not exceed 150 feet. DUNNKT. 35 The extent of sea coast is about 15 miles, 1^ miles of which to the south of Dunnet are level sand, the remainder rocky. The shore round Dunnet-head is quite inaccessible from the land, for about eight miles, except at two or three places where the in- habitants can go down with difficulty. The remainder along the Pentland Frith is low and accessible at several creeks. Climate. — The atmosphere is clear when the wind is from the sea ; when from the land it is in autumn and spring moist, and the weather variable. The climate is on the whole healthy. Snow seldom lies any length of time, nor do frosts generally go deep into the soil. Crops are late in ripening — in general from four- teen to twenty days behind the Lothians. The current in the Pentland Frith is exceedingly strong during spring tides, so that no vessel can stem it. ' The flood tide runs from west to east at the rate of ten miles an hour, with new and full moon. It is then high water at Scarfskerry at nine o'clock. Immediately as the water begins to fall on the shore, the cur- rent turns to the west, but the strength of the flood is so great in the middle of the Frith, that it continues to run east till about twelve. These contiguous currents, running with such velocity from opposite directions, have a strange appearance from the land. With a gentle breeze of westerly wind about eight o'.clock in the morning, the whole frith seems as smooth as a sheet of glassy from Dunnet-head to Hoy-head in Orkney. About nine the sea begins to rage for about 100 yards off* the Head, while all without continues smooth as before. This appearance gradually advances towards the frith, and along the shore to the east, though the efiepts are not much felt upon the shore till it reaches Scarfskerry-^ head, which is about three miles distant from Dunnet-head, as the land between these points forms a considerable bay. By two o'clock the whole frith seems to rage. About three in the after- noon, it is low water on the' shore, when all the former phenome- na are reversed — the smooth water beginning to appear next the land, and advancing gradually till it reaches the middle of the frith. From the strength of the tides, and the surprising velo- city of these contiguous currents in opposite directions, Pentland Frith is a very dangerous navigation to strangers, especially if they approach near the land. But the natives along the coast are so well acquainted with the direction of the tides, that they can take advantage of every one of these currents, to carry them safe to one harbour or another. Hence very few accidents happen but 36 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. from want of skill or knowledge of the tides. The frith is about twelve miles broad opposite to Dunnet. Hydrography. — There are ten small lakes on Dunnet-head ; they contain no fish of any kind* There are three, of a mile each, or thereby, in length, and about half that extent in breadth, in the lower part of the parish, viz. the Loch of Hayland, Syster, and St John's. The principal mi lis are supplied by them with water. There are a few trouts in the Loch of Syster ; the others are frequented by eels. There is a considerable quantity of marl in Loch Hayland. Loch Syster is also said to contain marl, but it has not been searched. The scenery of Loch Syster is very lonely, being nearly surrounded with deep moss in a barren district Geology. — In this parish there are only two dbtinct formations of rock. Dunnet-head is altogether composed of freestone, chiefly of a brownish cofour, but some of it white, very hard and durable. Tlie strata dip or incline to the north-east, at an angle of nearly 45^. This headland contains 3000 acres. The remainder of the parish is the common flag-stone slate of the county, also generally dipping to the north-east, at an angle of from 20"" to 60^. No sim- ple minerals have been discovered in the parish. There are a number of springs, much impregnated with iron ; but this may arise from the slate containing a considerable portion of that mi- neral. There are great varieties of soil in the parish. Dunnet-head is entirely covered with moss, to a considerable depth, betwixt which and the freestone, there is a hard pan of moorland, making the moss retentive of water. The cultivated lands round Dunnet are a dry black sandy loam ; also on the shore of the Pentland Frith, the soil is black loam lying on a sandy clay at about five feet from the rock. This soil is generally wet and difficult to drain ; it has no pan, but the clay being retentive, keeps the moisture on the surface. The southern districts of the parish are generally a clayey loam, lying on a bed of clay, from 2 to 5 feet in depth. Where the slate is rotten on the top, the land is dry ; where it is hard, the land is uniformly wet and retentive. There are also about 3000 acres of moss in the low ground, on the east of the parish, varying in depth from 2 to 16 feet, lying on blue clay — producing stunted heath and other coarse herbage. In these mosses, dwarf birch, hazel, and saughs are found near the bottom^ in considerable quantities, which show they were formerly covered with brushwood. To the east of Dunnet Bay, there are 2000 DUNNET. 87 acres of land covered with sand, from 1 to 10 feet, (the debris of Dunnet-head, carried into the bay by the sea, and drifted eastwards.) These links were formerly common, and overstocked and poached with cattle. They were subject to break up and drift into the in». terior, covering up considerable tracts of arable land, where the yestiges of the houses are still seen. They have since been di« vided and protected ; they are now covered with herbage. Bent grows rapidly near the shore, and arrests the progress of the sand, which is forming rapidly into a ridge of knolls already from 20 to 90 feet above high water mark, and covered to the sea with bent. A small portion is still used as a common by the township of Dunnet ; the cattle destroy the bent, and it is still subject to breaking up and drifting. On these links, where spongy, a vast number of the marl shells breed on the surface ; but except the Loch of Hayland on the east of the links, there is no pond to retain them : hence, except in this loch, there is no marl, as the shelb are swept to the sea by the winter floods. Zoology, — Numbers of the various kinds of sea-fowl frequent the coast There are a few eagles, hawks, and ravens, vast num- bers of plovers and snipes, with a fair proportion of partridges and grouse, and almost all the varieties of small birds peculiar to Scot* land. Of wild quadrupeds the number is few, comprising otters, polecats, and weasels. Foxes have disappeared from the district ; hares abound, and there are a number of rabbits in the links — also a few seals along the coast There are still about 400 sheep on Dunnet-head, belonging to the small tenants surrounding it on the east, mostly of the original short-tailed breed of the country. They are the same race as the Shetland sheep — are small and nimble — produce a little fine wool, of various colours ; their mutton is very fine, but they seldom get fat, or weigh above 36 lbs. The young lambs are covered with a strong coat of curled hair for a few weeks after lambing, exactly resembling Siberian lamb skin, — hence I would attribute to them a Scandinavian origin. They are altogether a worthless breed, and not easily improved by crossing with more improved races of sheep. Dunnet Bay abounds with haddocks and other white fish. There is likewise a tolerable salmon-fishing at the mouth of the Burn of Dunnet Salmon are also taken in the Pentland Frith, near Brough, but the fishing there has not as yet been much prosecuted. There are occasionally shoals of herrings in the bay. 38 CAITHNESS-dHlRE. ID June and July, but they are not to be depended on as affording a regular fishing. Great numbersof cod and ling are taken in the Pent'- land Frith, as well as lobsters and other shell fish. The lobsters are collected by a London company at dd. each, from the fishermen, and forwarded by smacks to the London market Nupnbers of Lon- don fishing smacks also frequent the frith for cod and ling. In the lakes there are a number of eels; and trouts only in the Loch of Syster. A few of these were put into the Loch of Dunnet, or St John's Loch, a few years ago, by Dr John Jolly. It is not yet ascertained if they have bred. St John's Loch is much re- sorted to on the first Monday of May, and the first Monday of August, November, and February, O. S., by invalids from all parts of the country. They walk round it, bathe, throw a piece of money into the water, and are out of sight of it by sunrise. Hy- pochondriacs and nervous people may sometimes feel better after this, from the power of imagination and exertion ; but those seri- ously ill are of course the worse for it, and die occasionally by the road. The secret of the matter seems to be this : there was a Ca* Iholic chapel (St John's,) at the east end of the lake, to the wa- ters of which the saint must have communicated virtuous qualities. The money is evidently the offering to the altar ; hence the very worthy practice of curing the sick and enriching the church. After the Reformation, the practice of throwing the money into the loch would begin, it being possible that the minister would instruct them to do so. It is astonishing, that in these days such a su- perstitious rite should be continued ; but so it is, and people who should know better have recourse to it. I do not think it does much good to the people in the parish ; it seems most efficacious to those at a distance. Botany. — There are a vast number of rare plants on Dunnet- Head in a dwarf state. It is said to be a field worth the in- spection of the scientific botanist The other districts of the pa- rish possess little rare or curious in this department. There is nothing worthy of the name of a tree in the parish. A few acres of hard-wood were planted three years ago by Mr Traill ; and they are promising to grow. Thorn hedges thrive pretty well on the clay soils, and walled gardens produce apples and other small fruit II. — Civil History. The following inscription occurs on a grave-stone in the church- 13UNNET. 39 yard : " Here lies Margaret Wallace, daughter of William WaK lace, who was murdered by Alexander Calder, son of Alexander Calder, in Dunnet, because he could not have her in marriage ; August 29, in the year of God 1635/' There is still a tra* dition that the murder was committed on a Sunday morning, and that the murderer, by fleeing to Orkney, escaped punish- ment. Land»awner9. — The parish is divided into three properties, be- twixt James Traill, Esq. of Ratter; William Sinclair, Esq. of Freswick; and the Kirk-session. The valued rent is L.2d09, I2s. 6d. Scots, and the real rent about 'L. 3600. The average of births and baptisms for the last seven years has been 61l^ marriages for the same period has been - ~ ^^^ There has not been a register of deaths or burials kept in the parish. Many of those whose forefathers resided in the neigh- bouring parishes have been buried with them, and many from th^ neighbouring parishes have, for a similar reason, been buried here. Antiquities. — Vestiges of three Roman Catholic chapels are still visible. One of them was situated at Dunnet-Head, and is supposed to have been a place of penance. There are a number of what are called Pictish houses over the parish. One of these at Ham is still pretty entire. They are supposed by Pennant to have been built by the Danes, who at one time possessed all the lower district of the county. Their construction seems to have been a circular room in the centre, contracting at the top like a bottle, by the pro- jection of one stone over another, with a number of out-buildings or cells all around. A doorway and passage, covered with strong lintels of stone, seem to have led into the centre apartment. There is seldom any thing discovered in them when opened, ex- cept deer horns, bones, and shells, and occasionally a quern stone. They are uniformly situated in the best land, which leads us to suppose they were the first settlements for cultivation in the county. Another peculiarity is, that there are always several of them to be seen from the one you stand upon. This may have been for mutual alarm. There are tumuli on all the prin- cipal heights in the parish, chiefly composed of small stones, which have evidently been in the fire. We are led to suppose they were beacons. There is one on the highest point of Dunnel-Head, one on the Hill of Barrock, and one on the Hill of Greenland. The principal building in the parish '\s the lighthouse, on 40 CAITHNES8-SHIRE. the north-west extremity of Dunnet-Head, which has been erect* ed at a great expense, by the Commissioners for Northern Lights. It has proved useful for vessels passing the frith,-— they frequently mistaking the Bay of Dunnet for it, and get- ting wrecked on the sands. Here, on a promontory nearly 500 feet above the level of the sea, exposed to the fiiry of the gales from the Atlantic Ocean, surrounded with moss, and about three miles from the nearest habitation, the art of man has made a comfortable' dwelling, a garden on deep moss producing fine vegetables, and parks where tolerable crops of corn and grass are raised on moss twelver feet deep. The principal light-keeper, Mr Adair, deserves much credit for his perseverance as a culti- vator. III. — Population. The population, till within sixty years ago consisted simply of the proprietors and their tenants. The proprietors farmed the Mains ; the tenants had all more or less land allotted them, i|od the pasturage in common. They ploughed the land for the pro* prietors, carried the manure on their back% or in creels on ponies. They reaped, thrashed, and manufactured the crop, carried it to market, and shipped it They gave the proprietor part of their sheep, cattle, swine, geese, hens and eggs, and a small victual and money rent — they were, in fact, next thing to slaves. However, in this state, it is said, the proprietors kept excellent tables and lived well. The people, too, were not without their comforts. All their clothing was of home manufacture, some remnants of which are still to be seen — a kind of stuff of fine worsted, dyed very dark blue. It served for coat, vest, and breeches for Sim- days, and also for gowns to the females ; a more comfortable dress for a cold climate than the ruffles, ribbons, and flimsy fabrics now- a-days of Glasgow and Manchester. Amount of Papuiatiorij — , ,^^ Males. Feromlet. ToUl. In 1801 - 589 777 1866 1809 -666 774 1440 1811 . 638 760 1398 1821 . 873 989 1862 1881 - 932 974 1906 The great disproportion of males and females in the beginning of this century was occasioned by the number of young men who had gone to the army and navy, or some other seafaring line ; and the great increase of population in 1821, was produced chiefly by DUNNBT. 41 i^boutdOO Highlanders from Assynt and Stratbnaver, who had been removed from their possessions by the introduction of sheep- fanning, and came to this parish. The greater part of them had removed before 1831. Their habits not being adapted to an in- dustrious life, they soon got in arrears with the landlord, and went off, some to the Highlands, others to America. With the above exception, the increase of population has risen partly from the extension of cultivation, and the fisheries, and the abolition of the feudal service which left the people more to their own re- sources. The whole inhabitants may be said to be of the agricultural class, though those along the shore^side are frequently employ- ed in fishing. The parish is occupied by 84 tenants, paying from L. 8 to L. 350 rent yearly, and 201 paying firom ds. to L. 8 year** ly : there are besides ten large farms or mains in the occupation of the proprietors. Laa^guagt^ ffc. — The English language only is spoken by the original inhabitants. The few Highlanders remaining still partly retain the GraeUc The children all speak English, and that much better than in the southern counties. Playing the knotty (golf) on New- Year's Day is almost the only game practised. Habits of the People. — The habits of the people in dress and cleanliness have much improved of late years. The ordinary food is oat and barley-meal, with potatoes, fish, pork, beef, and occa- sionally tea and coffee. The practice of making malt and brew- ing ale is still understood ; but the severity of the excise laws pre- vents people from a liberal use of this wholesome beverage. There are, no doubt, numbers in the parish who are much pinched in cir- cumstances ; but in general, potatoes and fish of one kind or ano- ther, and meal and milk, are within the reach of all. Mostly every householder keeps a pig, the pork of which is used in summer, boil- ed with cabbage, and though there are a number of families very poor, from circumstances over which they have no control, stiU the mass of the population may be said to live comfortably, and with a considerable degree of independence. With regard to general character, they are an acute, sagacious, and moral set of people, and possessed of considerable energy in managing their own affidrs. With some, there is, perhaps, a want of industry, but this originates more from the nature of their situation than from indolence. The fisherman's life is too near akin to the hunter's for constant application, and the smaller te- 42 CAlTHNESS-SlIIRE. Hants, liaving always a homey food, and fuel, do not, perhaps, be« stir themselves so much as they ought Poaching prevails to a considerable extent among the young -men, when there is snow on the ground. Smuggling is unknown, with the exception of small quantities of foreign spirits got by the fishermen from vessels passing the frith, and making a little malt for ale. But all that is done in either way is quite trifling. IV. — Industry. The general ejpployment of the people is agriculture and fishing. On the coast all are, to a certain extent, fishermen* After laying down their crofts in spring, they proceed to the lob- ster fishing. In the end of May and June, they cut their peats, and prepare for the herring fishing, which commences to the west of Thurso about the 1st of July, and sets in at Wick about the 18th. The whole fishermen and most of the young females set off for that station, and remain there for six weeks. They come home in September, get their crops cut, and potatoes dug, and betake them- selves again to the fishing of cod, saifbes, and siloffs. This is the ordinary routine with the coast side population. In the interior, most of the cottagers go to the herring fishing, and are employed by the proprietors or larger fiumers at the harvest, when not needed at home, and afterwards at drsdning, ditching, and other agricultural operations. There is also a number of shoemakers, tailors, smiths, Wrights, and weavers in the parish, but all hold more or less land, Hud a great portion of them are at some seasons fishermen. The above is the most numerous class in the parish. The next is the tenant, paying from L. 15 to L. 50 rent, who follows no profession save agriculture, and that generally in its ancient form, viz. bear and oats alternately. Most of them, however, now grow a few turnips and a little clover, and are decidedly improving; but, parti v from want of skill, capital, and encouragement from proprietors in leases, fencing, and draining, they have made little progress in improving their farms or bettering their own condition. From the circumstance of the produce of the county far exceeding the wants of the population, especially the growth of beef and mutton, and the means of transport by steam being in operation, it is a ques- tion whether this class can long hold land, either with benefit to themselves or the proprietors, unless they exert themselves, and produce articles fit for the market, seeing that land is much lower rented here than farther south. And the southern markets being DUNNET. 4J DOW opened up, it is folly to think that the land will lie idle, or only half-cultivated, for any length of time. ' The next classes are the large tenants and the proprietors' farm* servants, who are constantly employed in agriculture. There are two retail shops and two public-houses in th6 parish. The extent of the parish is about 17,000 acres, whereo^5000 are cultivated, and the remainder improvable pasture, moss, and links. The links may be stated at 2000 acres ; the moss 6000 acres, «— which leaves 4000 acres still capable of being brought into culti- vation. The rent of land varies much according to circumstances. It may, however, be taken as an average at 12s. per acre ; for arable land, varying from 5s. to L.1, 10s.[; the average of grazing a cow for a year on good land is L.4, on poor soils L.2. Leicester sheep, of which there are upwards of 700 in the parish, pay about L.1 a-head ; the sheep kept on the moors by small tenants and on Dunnet-Head, are of little value, perhaps Is. 6d. each per annum. Wages. — Farm servants' wages are, for men L. 6 to L. 8 yearly, 6^ bolls oatmeal, 2 bolls potatoes, vnth house and fire, and a chopin of milk daily. Boys less in proportion. Out-door women get L.1, 10s., 2 bolls meal, with milk and potatoes for the half year. House servants (women) get from L.1, 10s. to L.1, 15s. half yearly. Shearers in harvest, for eight weeks, (men) get L.1, 10s. with a stone of meal weekly, a few potatoes, and a chopin of milk daily. Women, L.1 wages, half a boll of meal, a few potatoes, and a mutchkin of milk daily. Ordinary labourers get from Is. to Is. 6d. per day ; women 6d. ; wrights 2s. ; masons and blacksmiths the same. Mason work, wall height, girth measure, is done for L.1, 16s. per rood of 36 yards, all materials found. Wood, iron work, and saddlers' are fully higher than in other parts of the kingdom. The common breed of cattle is an inferior description of the Highland, much deteriorated by importations from Orkney. They are generally sleek-skinned and coarsely made. In many instances they come to a good size, and the cows milk better than pure Higli- landers. In most cases, they are badly kept, and of course the great proportion of cattle stock in the parish is bad. The ordi- nary price of small tenants' two year old stots and queys, taken off by drovers, has for the last fifteen years ranged from L.1, 15s. to L. 3 ; the price of cows from L. 3 to L. 6. On the large farms and mains, where the land is well cultivated, and a regular sys- 44 CAITHNESS-SHIRE* tem of alternate husbandry introduced, there are good stocks of cattle of the Teeswater breeds reaching at three years old, from 45 to 56 stones beef^ and bringing in the London market from L.15 to L.ia The general breed of sheep is the Leicester, with those before- mentioned on Dunnet-Head, and a few Cheviots kept by tenants. The Leicesters have hitherto thriven very well, produce wool equal to any in the kingdom, and get to a good weight at 15 months old. Wedders of that age bring from L.J, 8s. to L.1, lOg^ each, and best ewes nearly the same. The breed of horses is of all descriptions, from the pony to the first-rate Clydesdale. Mr Gunn of Ratter imported a stallion twelve months ago from Lanarkshire, of an excellent figure, and at a high price (Lb 200). The size of cattle, horses, and other stock, as well as the quality of grain and green crops, is regulated by the size of the farms — where large, things in general are good, where small, bad in the extreme. The breed of swine has been much improved of late^ by importations of the best English va- rieties. Impropements. — On the farms in the parish, where improve-* ments have been made, or are making, the mode of reclaiming waste land is, to lay it out in suitable fields with ditches and thorn hedges, protected either with flag, which makes an excellent fence, or stone dikes 20 inches high with a Galloway cope, then under- drain with drains frgm 3 to 5 feet deep, as is necessary ; plough and allow it to lie for two years, then fallow and lime or marl, and if dry soil, make turnips with bone dust, which are fed off with sheep, — then a crop and grass seeds, if sufficiently reduced, if not, two crops, — then fallow and dung, and a crop with grass seeds, then pasture for three or four years. Substantial farm buildings have been erected and are erecting where improvements are going on. Mr Traill has expended a large sum in buildings, fences, drains, roads, and every thing else connected with the improvement of his estate. Freswick is also improving of late years. The links, moss, and waste ground, where under sheep, have been pasture-drained, which has improv- ed the surface much. The parish, with a trifling exception be- twixt Dunnet and Brough, is well provided with roads, and is ra- pidly improving, and there is little doubt of its continuing to do so, till its whole resources are called out ; and, however the occu- pations of the population may be changed, capital is only wanted DUNNET. 45 to employ and give subsistence to more people than it contabs at present. The principal tenants have, in general, leases of from fourteen to twenty^ne years. The smaller are at will, but are seldom re- moved so long as they pay their rents, or conduct themselves with propriety, unless to make way for some other arrangement; and in that case they are generally provided with a possession else*- where. Quarries. — Dunnet-Head affords excellent freestone for all building purposes, besides mill-stones, rollers, gate-posts, &c. The demand is limited, and the rent about L. 10 yearly. The other parts of the parish are well supplied with quarries for build- ing, making roads, fences, and drains ; and in one case there is a tolerable quarry for pavement, which is at present working on Mr Traill's estate of Inkstack, which pavement is sawn in the edges, and wrought up to be fit for exportation to London, at a consider rable expense, affording profitable employment to a number of people. Fisheries. — The salmon are kitted in the usual way, and sent to London. The cod and ling are sometimes sold as mud-fish in winter; in spring and summer they are dried. Gross Amount of Raw Produce. — 10,000 quarters oats and bear, at L.l, . • * L. 10,000 Hay, turnips, and potatoes, . . ... 4,000 Pasture of all kinds, ... ... 1,500 Fisheries, excluidTe of herrings taken at Thurso and Wiok, . 400 Quarries, . ... . ; . • 200 T. 16.100 Manufactures. — Formerly, a quantity of kelp was burned along the shore. It has been discontinued for some years, not paying the expense of manufacture. A number of females are employed in winter making herring nets, and working straw plait ; but neither affords above 4d. per day. The growing of flax and making of linen has also been discontinued in a great measure ; and from there being no other employment, except a little woollen cloth for home wear, females are not well employed in the winter season. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'ToumSf 8fc. — Thurso and Wick are the market-towns. There is nothing that can be called a village in the parish. Thur<* so is nine miles from Dunnet church. A sub-office to Thurso was established in 18S9. There is no post-office at present. It is hoped this grievance will soon be remedied. There 46 TAITHNEKS-SHIRK. is one good and safe harbour at HaiD, built at Mr Traill'^ expense. There are three landing places for boats at Dunnet, Brough, and Scarffskerry. A slip has been built at Brougb, at the expense of the Commissioners for Northern Lights, for land- ing their stores. Here a good harbour could be formed. Nothing has been done at Dunnet or Scarffskerry to aid nature. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is inconveniently si- tuated, being nearly at the western extremity of the parish, and distant about seven miles from the most easterly point But the few inhabitants in that remote quarter are near the church of Bower, and very seldom attend at Dunnet. The great bulk of the population are within four miles of the church. The church is an ancient building, was repaired in 1837, and an aisle added. It is now a comfortable and commodious edifice, capable of con* taining 700 sitters. The manse is in indifferent repair, and the oflBces ruinous. The glebe contains eight acres, besides the gar* den and the site of manse and offices, and is worth L. 12 yearly. The stipend is 1 12 bolls of oatmeal, 81 quarters, 4 bolls, 1 peck, 1 gallon, 1^ quart bear, and L. 8^ 6s. 8d. of money. The liv- ing is in the gift of Sir James Colquhoun. The number of com-* municants is nearly 200, of whom 58 are male heads of families; There are a few Dissenters in the parish. Burghers, Anabaptists, and Methodists, — not exceeding 40 of all these persuasions. The average amount of church collections from Whitsunday 1830 to Whitsunday 1836 was L. 10, 16s. lid. annually. From Whitsunday 1836 to Whitsunday 1837, they were only L. 6, 6s. 2d., in consequence of the church being under repair. Education, — There are in the winter season, four schools in the parish besides the parochial school, supported by private sub- scription. The salary of the parish school is the maximum, amounting to L. 34, 4s. 4 jd. The school fees are moderate and ill paid. The salary, fees, &c. may amount to L. 45 per annum. Reading, writing, and arithmetic are principally taught in all the schools. The parochial schoolmaster teaches the higher branches of educiition. The people are quite alive to the value of educa- tion ; but, for the most part, can only send their children to school during the winter months, which prevents there being many good scholars. All, however, are taught to read and write, and have been so for many years. There is a hew school erected by Mr Traill in a centrical part of the parish, to which the Education DUN NET. 4 1 Committee of the General Assembly has appointed a teacher with a salary of L.20 per annum^ and which will be of great bene6t« Friendly Society. — There Is one Friendly Society in theparish, but it has been prodoctive of no obvious advantages. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is about 100. The sum allotted to each of the greater part of them is a few shillings twice in the year. The more necessitous are supplied more liberally. The lands of Hollandmaik in the parish, were purchased in 18d5 for the poor, at the price of L. 630, yielding a clear rent of about L. 25 per annum. There is also an annuity of L. 5, lis. 1 ^^gd. payable from the estate of Freswick, and interest of L. 300 capital, at 4^ per cent. L. 13, 10s. which, with the collections, say L. 10, 16s. lid., make a sum of L. 54, 18s.* From this sum is to be deducted L. 4, 1 Os., the interest of L. 1 00, appropriated by the donor, the late George Oswald, Esq. of Scotston, for paying the school fees of those children whose parents are unable|to pay, which leaves the sum of L. 52, 13s. for annual distribution. There are no poor rates. With few exceptions, those among whom the poor funds are divided, are objects of charity ; old and infirm people, who have no iamilies to help them ; widows with weak fa- milies, and the like. There is no general disposition to take pa- rochial relief where they have other means to rely on, such as as- sistance from children or relatives. Fairs. — There are four iairs or markets held in the parish an- nually for the sale of cattle, horses, sheep, &c., viz. one at Dun- net, first Tuesday of April, and the great market at the same place, on Tuesday, after 15th August, old style, which lasts two days, and is well attended. There is another on the first Tuesday of October, old style ; and the Reaster market, third Tuesday of October, old style. Fuel, — The fuel used is nearly altogether peats : it is of easy access, and good quality. The expense of it is not easily as- certained. A large cart load sells for 2s. Coals are imported at the neighbouring harbour of Castlehill, but little is used. Miscellaneous Observations. The arable land, by last Statistical Account, was 1600 Scots, or 2000 imperial acres ; it is now upwards of 5000 acres : the rent was then L.950, it is now about L.d600. The system of ploughing with oxen and horses, three and four abreast, has been dicontinued ; * The collections since the church wm repaired, L.13, 17s. lid. per annum. 48 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. iron ploughs and two horses being in general use. The pernicious system of servitude is abolished. Wages of labour of all kinds are more than doubled. The population was then (1791) 1399, it is now 1906, — certainly enjoying more comfort than at that period, and doing a vast deal more business. The houses also, with a few exceptions, have been much improved : in many cases, com- fortable cottages have been erected. The improvement which the parish is susceptible of, has already been pointed out. There is certainly a want of employment for fe« males within doors ; perhaps the growth of flax and the working of it as in Flanders, might be of use to remedy this evil. There are also a number of small tenants at a distance from the sea, who would be better employed as labourers, and the land they possess would be more productive under a different system. Seeing the climate for^ bids the cultivation of the more valuable grains, wheat, barley, beans, and pease, (of all which the soil produces great crops, but they only ripen well in favourable seasons, and are not for a man to meddle with who has a rent to pay,) — the attention of the far- mer should be turned to grass, turnips, bear, and oats, which are produced, where well cultivated, in abundance. He should be ac- tive in rearing and feeding cattle and sheep for the southern mar- kets, which, now from the introduction of steam navigation, can be sent as cheap in a few hours by sea, as they could be driven by land in a month, some years ago. Thus, by increasing the ex- .ports of the parish, and getting money in return, its cultivation may be still farther extended and improved, and the quantity of labour increased, which is the only sure means of adding to the happiness and comfort of the labouring classes in a rural commu- nity. October 1840. PARISH OF WATTEN. PRE8BTT£RT OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. ALEXANDER GUNN, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The etymology of the name Watten is UDcertaiiL Some have supposed it to be a Danish word, signifying water^ and to have derived its application from the circumstance of this pa- rish containing the largest lake in the county. Extent^ Sfc. — The parish extends in extreme length from north- east to south-west about 10 miles, and in extreme breadth from north-west to south-east about 7 ; and its superficial contents may be reckoned in square miles at from 60 to 65. It is surrounded on the north, east, south, and west, by the parishes of Bower, Wick, Latheron, and Halkirk, respectively ; the boundaries or di- viding lines, however, cannot with propriety be called natural, but are, generally speaking, wholly conventional. Its figure, making allowance for some considerable irregulari- ties, may be called rhomboidal. Its surface is in general extreme- ly level, the principal irregularities deserving rather the name of undulations than of hills. The valleys are consequently of very in- considerable depth, with the exception of that which forms the basin of the principal lake. Its range is from north-west by west, to south-east by east, and the adjoining ground rises with a very trifling acclivity. The medium elevation of its bottom above the level of the sea is thirty feet. There are various glens in the southern part of the parish, but of small size, forming the chan- nels of rivulets which have their sources in wet moorland grounds. Their forms are exceedingly irregular, their connections at an ave- rage angle of 80% and their differences in point of elevation very inconsiderable. Meteorology, — Under this head, little can be said either inte- resting or important. The average temperature of the atmosphere seems to differ little from that of the middle districts of the east CAITHNESS. D 60 CAITHNESS-SHIUE. coast of Scotland, at least, where the country is unsheltered by hills. There is generally an excess of cloudy and foggy weather in the end of spring, beginning of summer, and end of autumn. The average quantity of rain is flaoderate, although occasionally, in autumn, it is such, that, for a considerable period, the streams • are swollen beyond their ordinary limits, and the adjacent grounds under water. Climate. — ^.The climate is subject to very great vicissitudes, and the prevalent distempers, which are colds, inflammation of the throat, and other organs, (the latter more rarely), rheumatism, &c. unquestionably originate in the rapid alternations of heat and cold, drought and moisture. The parish is also sometimes, but npt very frequetitly, visited by the usual epidemic diseases. There is sel- dom a long continuance of dry weather until near the summer solstice, and comparatively little dew falls until that period, when the nights are generally clear and calm. The prevailing winds are easterly, except during the months of June, July, August, and September, when the excess of wind ranges from south-east to west. The most violent gales are always from north by west Hydrography, — The springs are all perennial, and of a tempe- rature not very different from the annual average of the atmosphere ; their magnitude is generally inconsiderable, their water pure and colourless, (with a few exceptions, which are powerful chalybeates ;) and the rocks from which they flow, excepting two or three, in- stances of secondary limestone, are clay-slate. The parish con- tains two lakes, those of Watten and Toftingall, the first extend- ing in length 3 miles, and in its greatest breadth about 1|, con- taining 840 imperial acres, with an average depth of 10 feet, and surrounded by gently rising ground, generally in the highest state *of cultivation ; the other being about 5 miles in circumference, with an average depth of perhaps 8 feet, and surrounded by bleak dismal moors. Each of these lakes contributes its stream to the river of Wick, the channel by which the numerous rivulets having their source in the moorland grounds find their way to the ocean. The direction of these streams is generally northerly, until they arrive at the river of Wick, when it becomes east by south, with a small velocity. They vary much in length, and the course of the longest does not exceed 10 miles, including 2 miles of the river of Wick within the boundaries of this parish. Geology and Mineralogy. — A very characteristic geological fea- ture of this parish, and a feature that belongs more or less to the 4 WATTE N. 51 county generally, is the remarkably horizontal position of the strata. In a great many cases, there is not the slightest dip or inclination perceptible ; and when this does appear, the average angle does not exceed 10**. The strata are almost universally in- tersected by minute fissures, perpendicular, and often rectilineal, the principal of which seem to run from east to west ; these again are met, but not traversed, by others, often at right angles. Tra- versing veins are rare, and in no instance do they exceed an inch in thickness. In one part of the parish, they are met with running generally from north-east to south-west, composed of gypsum, and in some instances of felspar, and met in a very irregular manner by minute fissures. It is in this district that the greatest inclina- tion is found, as well as the greatest derangement of the strata. The rocks are composed entirely of flagstone slate or clay-slate, with two orthree very trifling exceptions, consisting of limestone and whinstone, the former occurring perhaps not more than twice, in small quantity, and the latter hardly oftener. All these rocks appear to be of the secondary order, and although, from the limited observations which it has hitherto been possible to make, it cannot be deci- sively stated, yet there is reason to think that the clay-slate gene- rally is superimposed over a bed of limestone, and has an average thickness of from 10 to 20 feet or upwards. Few or none of the simple minerals seem to have been met with imbedded in rock, but the beds of the rivulets are frequently strewn with the usual debris of primitive rocks, such as small pieces of granite containing minute portions of garnet and schorl, fragments of mica schist, quartz, &c. Among the alluvial deposits covering the solid rocks, we may mention first those occurring along, the course of the streams. Where the water has worn out for itself a deep channel, and a perpendicular section of the bank is presented, these deposits are seen frequently to consist of alternate horizontal layers of clay, light-coloured towards the surface, and darker as it descends, and coarse gravel, composed, as that in the beds of the water-courses generally is, of clay-slate, porphyry, sandstone, white and red, quartz, mica, and occasionally bog iron-ore. These layers of gravel rarely exceed 3 feet in depth, those of clay often occur with a depth of from 8 to 16 feet, containing disseminated por- tions of rock of various sizes. By far the most general, indeed the universal alluvial deposit resting on the rocks elsewhere is clay, hard, tenacious, of a bluish colour, and containing in greater or less 62 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. quantities gravel and pieces of rock imbedded. This clay occurs in quantity underneath a layer of peat in several places 16 feet in depth. Superimposed upon this sort of clay is often found another of a yellowish colour, less tenacious and in smaller quantity. Marl occurs pretty extensively in the bed of the principal lake, but rarely elsewhere. It does not exceed 4 or 5 feet in depth, and is generally covered with several feet of mud. Bog iron-ore occurs in various places, generally in dry, clayey moorland ground, but only scattered over the surface. Of peat there is a very great quantity, varying in depth from a few inches to 16 or 20 feet, and always resting on a bed of clay. It contains, as is usual, immense quantities of wood, oak, birch, and pine : very large pine trunks are frequently found, being sometimes met with even at the depth o{ 16 feet, with the bark and wood apparently quite entire, very light, and highly inflammable. The bark is generally of a silvery gray colour, and the wood dark-brown. Here chiefly occur horns of deer, and the very few other remains of animals that have been hitherto discovered. The soil is generally composed of a clayey loam, in which the clay preponderates, with an average depth of from one to two feet, and naturally wet, from the very retentive nature of the subsoil. Though the soil is now much improved by draining, the only other varieties occur in the low flats adjacent to the water courses, which are composed of sand and other alluvial matters, and in the moor- land districts where the peat predominates over the clay. Boulders are not unfrequent in the first mentioned soil ; they rarely exceed two or three feet in diameter, and are composed of granite, lime- stone, whinstone, sandstone, &c. but most frequently of porphyry. II. — Civil History. Land-owners. — The chief land-owners are. Sir Ralph A. An- struther, Bart, of Balcaskie; William Home, Esq. of Stirkoke; William Sinclair, Esq. of Freswick ; Sir P. M. B. Thriepland of Fingask; Major- General William Stewart of Strath, &c. Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers have been regu- larly kept since 1701, and are not very voluminous. Antiquities, — There are numerous remains of Pictish houses^ apparently similar in every respect to those elsewhere found, but in such a state of ruin that nothing material appears which has not been already often noticed. In one part of the parish, there still exist what are supposed to be the remains of a Druidical cir- cle, in a beautiful natural amphitheatre, covered with verdant turf, WATTEN. 53 appearing to have been at all times destitute of wood, as the places of Druidical worship were, and situated in the midst of moors, once the site of seemingly boundless forests. There exist many tradi- tions in the parish relative to the incursions of the Danes, and con- flicts of the clans, but altogether so vague, and unauthenticated by positive evidence, as to be wholly unworthy of notice. IIL — Population. The only existing data from which an estimate can be formed of the ancient state of the population of the parish are the regis- ters of births and marriages. The average amount which the regis- ter of somewhat more than a century back gave is about 3000 inhabitants, or nearly triple the present number. The amount of population by the census of 1811 was 1109; by that of 1821, 1158; and by that of 1831, 1234. It is believed that since 1831 the population has decreased, chiefly from the great size of some of the farms, the introduction of sheep, &c. There is no town or village in the parish. The yearly average of births for the last seven years is 32, of marriages, 8. There are no re- sident heritors in the parish. The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards is 7. The number of fa- milies, 241 ; of houses inhabited, 241 ; of houses uninhabited, 9; number of blind, 1 . Habits of the People^ Sfc. — In the language generally spoken, in the habits of the people as to cleanliness, and in the style and man- ner of their dress, a remarkable improvement has taken place within the last forty years. They appear on the whole to enjoy a reasonable degree of comfort and contentment, are distinguished for industry and economy, and their general character may be inferred from the fact, that crimes requiring the cognizance of the civil power are so rare as to be almost unheard of. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — As nearly as can be estimated, the number of acres standard imperial measure in the parish, which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, is about 5500. Supposing the contents of the parish to be sixty square miles, or 38,400 acres, the num- ber of acres constantly waste, or in pasture, will be about 33,000, composed in many parts of deep flow-moss, and, with the ex- ception of some small green patches along the banks of the streams, generally of little use as pasture. It is unsound for sheep, of which stock very few indeed have of late years been kept by the 54 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. smaller teDants, whose fiirms are, in general, adjoining to the above-mentioned moss ground. By a calculation, as accurate as circumstances admit of, it ap« pears that there are upwards of 5000 acres presently waste that might be added to the cultivated land of the parish ; and from the apparent quality of the soil, as well as the result of experiments already made, there is no doubt of their affording in time a fair return for the capital employed in bringing them into a productive state. The commons are all divided, or in process of division, except one of no great extent (Kilminster), on the east side of the parish. It can scarcely be said there is wood in the parish, except a few trees at the old garden of Achingale, which have attained a pretty good size. Sir Ralph Anstrutber has planted about an acre at Watten ; it was trenched and well drained, has been now planted about twelve years, and appears thriving. There seemslittle doubt of raising wood by the above process, if it is protected. Hard-wood seems to thrive. There are about 10 acres of natural copse at Scouthil, composed chiefly of dwarf birch, hazel, and quaking- ash, but its height is trifling. Bent of Land. — The average rent of arable land per acre is not easily ascertained. Enclosed land may be valued at 16s. per acre, and the general rent paid by tenants for their whole land, both arable and pasture, is at the rate of from 12s. to L.1 per arable acre. The pasture b often four times the extent of the arable, and there are some tenants not possessing more than 20 acres of arable and meadow ground, who have 800 acres of moor pasture. A cow's keep throughout the year may be taken at L. 4 on arable, and L.2 on waste land. Leicester sheep, of which there are some large flocks in this parish, pay about L. 1 a-head ; the sheep kept on the moors by small tenants are of little value, and may be reckoned at 2s. per head yearly. Waffes. — Farm-servants' wages are, for men L. 8 yearly, 6 J bolls oatmeal, 2 bolls potatoes,|one chopin of milk daily, with house and fire ; for boys less in proportion. Out-door women for the half-year, L. 1, 15s., 2 bolls meal, milk and potatoes. House servants, L.1, 10s. to L.1, 15s. Shearers in harvest, men L.1, lOs. with a stone of meal weekly, a few potatoes, and a chopin of milk daily ; women, L.1, Is. 13 lbs. oatmeal weekly, potatoes, and half a chopin of milk daily, house room and fire. The above for six weeks, or the duration of harvest and raising the potatoes* Of ordinary la- WATTEN. 55 bourers, men get from Is. 6d. to Is. 8(1 per day in summer, and from Is. 2d. to Is. 4d. in winter; women get 6d* in winter, and 8d. in summer. Wright's work may be stated at 2s. to 2s. 6d. pef day ; blacksmith's the same. Mason work L. 2. per rood of 36 square yards. Iron, wood, and leather are about the same prices as in other parts of the kingdom. Live-Stoclu — The native breed of cattle is an inferior descrip- tion of the Highland. breed, generally sleek-skinned and coarsely made. In many instances they get to a good size, and the cows milk better than the pure Highlanders. There is not sufficient attention paid to them in general, and, of course, a considerable pro- portion of the cattle stock hi the parish is inferior. The ge- neral price of two year old cattle taken off by drovers to the south country markets has for the last few years, including the pre- sent, ranged from L. 3 to L. 8 each ; the ordinary price of cows from L. 5 to L. 11. The few sheep kept by the smaller tenants are Cheviots ; bu^ being ill-treated, and many of them dying of rot, they generally come to very little account These remarks are applicable only to the smaller class of farmsy on which the old system of husbandry still obtains, which is as follows : viz. on the best land, bear after manuring, followed by two crops of oats, and this followed in endless succession : on the outfield arable, two or three crops of oats, and then five or six rest ; a few potatoes and turnips, and a patch of sown grass. The number of farms, however, managed after this mode is every year decreasing. Where a better system obtains, there are, of course, better stocks of cattle. A cross with the Teeswater has become very general, and seems likely, as agriculture improves, to supersede the native breeds. Leicester sheep, and Cheviot crossed with Leicester, are reared extensively, thrive well, and equal in weight any in the kingdom. Their wool gives great satisfaction in the southern markets. Improvements.'-^ K great and rapid change to the better has taken place in agriculture during the last twenty years. There are several very extensive farms in the highest state of cultivatioDy thoroughly drained ; some of them to a considerable extent fur- row-drained, and enclosed with fences consisting of dry stone dike^ i hedge, and ditch. On one of these, the farm of Wester Watten, belonging to William Home, Esq. of Scouthel, it is believed that M CAITHNESS-SHIRE*. th^ro are from twenty to twenty-five miles of fences of this de** script ion. It nmy be worthy of remark, that, about fifty years ago, the late - Sir Robert Anstruther improved the Mains of Watten most ju-« diciously, enclosed it with hedges and dikes, built a steadbg on it« and laid it out in the best style. The late Mr Home of Lang- well wa« the tir$t to follow his example on his property of Wester Wallen abov^oiHHdtioned, which, from being almost entirely waste and unproductive^ was converted, under the able management of Mr Jauxe« l\irYi2^ now mana^ger to Mr Traill of Ratter, into one of Iho &ue$(« a$ it certainly k one ol the largest farms in the north of Scv^kii^d. What hb uncle did to Wester Watten, Mr Home ^f ^vuthe)« well known Rnt many years past as the greatest and iNKyf< ^Ukvetjs^ilul imi^cover in thb county, has more recently done U^ Kii$ (H\>|>crt\ of L^negar, also in this parish ; and Sir R. A. Aii$tr\itKec vMf Rilcaskie, th^ principal proprietor in the parish, Imk^ ^vr 5^Hiie yvsftrs past, been pursuing a most admirable system o«i hW exlenstw^ estates, viz. that of granting, on improving lesses, HHxWvwte^ted fimns, regularly subdivided, fenced, and intersected by ^hhI roads with all requisite encouragement to the tenantry, AS rx>$i>ects draining, manure, comfortable dwelling-houses, &c. His tenantry are amply supplied, at a low rate, with marl raised by dredging in a small loch adjoining the west end of the parish* It is the opinion of many, that, under such circumstances as these, the system of moderate-sized farms would eventually prove the most advantageous to the landlords in a pecuniary point of view, as it certainly would in a moral and economical, both to them and to the country at large, being the only means of pre- serving a class of men now fast wearing out, and whom the rapid extension of sheep-farming threatens in many districts to annihi- late altogether — the substantial peasantry of Scotland, the trus- tiest bulwark of the aristocracy, and the best defence under Pro- yidence of the altar, the throne, and the constitution ; a class of men among whom religion, morality, and good order have flou- rished more than among any other ; a class who are seldom ap- preciated as they should be, and whose services may be most needed when they cannot be had. A wonderful stimulus has been given to agriculture, and the rearing of improved stock in this parish, as well as others in the county, by the easy access to the southern markets, opened up by steam within these few years, for fat cattle and sheep, a great WATTEX. 57 number of which are now annually shipped to Leith, Newcastle^ and London. Great advantages have also followed from the spi- rited exertions of the county gentlemen to improve the breed of cattle, sheep, horses, &c., by giving annual premiums to the ex- hibitors of the best stock* So successful, indeed, have these beed^ that this county need not now dread a competition in these mat- ters, open to all Scotland, as was amply shown at the Highland Society's meeting at Inverness in 1839. Produce. — Average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained : — Oats, 6500 quarters, at L.1, Is. per quarter, . . L.6825 Bear, 860 do. at L.I, Ss. per do. . . J204 Potatoes, 2900 bolls at 10s. per boll, . J400 Turnips, 300 acres, at L.7 per acre, . 2100 .-Hay, 30,000 stones, at 6d. per stone, . . 750 Land in pasture and miscellaneous produce, . 700 Total yearly value of raw produ«r, . L.I 2,97 9 V. — Parochial Economy. Market- Tbtrn.— There are no market or other towns in the pa- rish. The nearest market-town is Wick, distant eight miles. Means of Communication* — The means of communication en- joyed by the parish are, one post-oflSce, (at the bridge of Watten), being a sub-office to Wick, — twenty miles of turnpike roads, (along seven miles of which the mail passes daily, and a carrier twice a- week), and various bridges, all of inconsiderable size, excepting two at Watten and Dunn. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is very inconveniently situated, being distant from the north-east extremity of the parish only one mile, and nearly nine miles from the south-west. The date of its erection is unknown. It appears from the session re- cords to have been repaired in 1714. Since that period, it has received several repairs, and was propped with wooden supports two years ago. It is in a very bad state. It may accommodate from 700 to 800 persons, and the sittings are all free. 1'he manse was built in 1778. There is a glebe of 24 acres, worth about i5s. per acre, and the amount of stipend is 14 chalders^ half meal and half barley, with L. 10 for communion elements. There is no Government church. Dissenting, Seceding, Episcopa- lian, or Roman Catholic chapel in the parish. There is one mis- sionary in the Highland part of it, supported partly by the Royal Bounty Committee, and partly by the people ; also, a cate- chist. The number of families attending the Established ChurcK 58 CAITHNBSS-SHIRE. is Dearly equal to the number of families in the parish^ and the church is generally full. The average number of communicants is about 120. There is one society in the parish — a Bible, Jewish, and Missionary Society, The average yearly collections for reli- gious purposes are about L. 25, and for charitable L. 20* EducaiiorL — The number of schools in the parish is 8^ of which one is parochial, one endowed by the Greneral Assembly's Educa- tion CommitteiB, and one supported by fees. The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum salary of L. 84. He is obliged from age to have an assistant, who receives the fees, averaging Li 12, and occasional donations from the heritors. The general expense of education is, for reading. Is. 6d. or 2s. ; writing and arithmetic, 6d. each additional per quarter, Latin, 5s. Poor children are taught gratis at the parochial' and General Assem- bly's schools. There are no children upwards of six years of age who are not in course of learning reading, writing, and arith- metic Some aged persons there are, who cannot read, but the number of these is exceedingly small. The people universally are much alive to the benefits of education, and two additional schools are required which they are unable regularly to maintain. A parochial library has been established this year, which al« ready possesses upwards of 300 volumes ; there are also two Sab- bath schools very efficiently taught, and numerously attended. Friendly Society. — Under this head there is nothing to parti- cularize excepting a Friendly Society instituted in 1819, for the purpose of aiding its members when sick, and their widows after their decease. It is sufficiently desirable in this point of view, but in other respects its advantages are not very obvious. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average of persons receiving parochial aid is 35, and the average sum given to each 15s. per annum. The average sum at the disposal of the kirk-session for all parochial purposes, is about L. 34, of which L. 20 arise from church collections, the remainder being the interest of legacies, and sums collected many years ago by fines, and economy in the distribution of the funds. There is no other regular mode of pro- curing funds for the poor. There are none unemployed who are able and willing to work, and there are none so destitute as not to have a cottage, plenty of fuel, and a spot of ground for cabbages and potatoes. Fairs. — ITie following are held in the parish, for the sale of horses, cattle, sheep, and other stock, for hiring servants, and OLRICK. 59 other purposes of markets generally. 1. Roodsmass, on the first Tuesday of May, (old style) ; 2. Roodsmass, on the third Tues- day of September, O. S. ; di Wester Market, on the last Tue8<« day of October; 4. Magnusmass, on the last Tuesday of De- cember. Also three cattl^trysts, on the first Mondays of July, August, and September, on the Hill of Backless. /nn^.— There are 4 of these, being three more than the public accommodation requires. They receive almost no countenance from the people of the parish. r FueL — The fuel almost universally used is peat or turf, pro- cured from the peat-bogs, with which the parish abounds, at an expense of about 6d. per cart load, exclusive of carriage. October 1840. PARISH OF OLRICK. PRESBYTERY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. WILLIAM MCKENZIE, MINISTER. I. — ToPOC^RAPHY AND NATURAL HlSTORY. Name."— The word Olrich (or Olrig), is of Norwegian deri- vation, and may be interpreted ^^ the son of Erick :" it was ap- plied to this parish in allusion to a settlement made by soma chief of that name on. this part of the coast, about the end of the eighth or the beginning of the ninth century, when an inva* sion of this northern part of the kingdom is supposed to have taken place. Extent — The length of the parish from north-west to south-east is 5 miles, its medium breadth 3 miles: and it contains 15^ square miles, or about 10,000 imperial acres. It is bounded on the west, east, and south by the parishes of Thurso, Dunnet, and Bower, — and the sea is the boundary on the north. Soil and Produce. — The soil throughout the parish may be considered good ; and as improvements in agriculture are car- ried on, on the most approved plans, perhaps there is not a parish in the north of Scotland where better crops of all kinds of useful produce are raised. There is abundance of marl in the parish, 60 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. which, along with sand aild sea*weed, afford every facility in the way of manure. The common of Hilliclay being now divided and enclosed by the respective proprietors, and fast yielding to cultivation, very little of the parish can be considered as unfit for husbandry, and what is not already under cultivation, affords ex-^ cellent pasture for young cattle and sheep, — of the latter of which there is a large increase of late years, and that of the best de- scription. Minerals^ Sfc. — Limestone and freestone, slates and flags abound in the parish* In the raising of stone for pavement much has been done for some years back. The finest quality of this is found on the pro- perty of Mr Traill of Ratter, the stratification being so very regu- lar and plane, that it answers admirably for streets, without any surface dressing. The layers are from three-quarters of an inch to five inches thick and upwards in the quarry ; the colour of the stone from a smoke-gray to blue. This stone is very hard, and exceedingly strong and durable. Some of the oldest houses in Caithness are roofed with it, and it has been employed with advantage for granary floors, being laid on joists at the ordinary distance, in the upper as well as low flats of buildings. The inhabitants of London, Newcastle, Edinburgh, Glasgow, and other towns are now reaping the benefit of pavement exported from this parish. At Castlehill, machinery is employed in sawing the edges and polishing the surface of the stone, which is now used in this prepared form for lobby floors, tables, hearth- stones, and mantel-pieces, and other purposes within doors. Up- wards of 100 labourers are constantly eniployed, and numerous cargoes of this useful commodity are exported every season ; the proprietor having erected a neat and commodious harbour for his own use, has now the pleasure and advantage of seeing his own and other vessels coming in and going out in safety in the immediate neighbourhood of his mansion-house, — the tonnage re- quired being from 3000 to 4000, and the annual shipment of pave- ment alone being from 300,000 to 400,000 square feet. On the estates of Olrig and Murkle, there are also quarries of slate and flag of good quality. The line of sea coast belonging to this parish is not more than two miles from east to west. At the extremities of this line are the bays of Castlehill and Murkle, both abounding with fish of every kind peculiar to the coast, soughl after (with the exception OLRICK. 61 4 of the salmon-fishing, lei to a respectable tenant), now only by thp labourers as a recreation from other work, and for the use of their families. Allusion has been already made to the harbour at Castlehill ; and it is much to be regretted that no steps have been taken for having a harbour also erected in the bay of Murkle, which is so well adapted for the purpose, and which would afibrd shelter to vessels in distress, or retarded in their progress by contrary winds, being almost naturally locked in from the effects of that dangerous neighbour, the Pentland Frith, and there being abundance of water at all times of tide. Lakes. — The only lake, that of Durran, mentioned in the for- mer Statistical Account, was drained many years ago, and has amply rewarded the proprietors, — the surface of water being now exchanged for inexhaustible pits of marl and rich meadow pas- ture. II. — Civil History. Parochial Registers. — The earliest date of these is 1700, since which period the record of session, including births and marriages, has been regularly kept ; but no record of deaths seems to have been kept in this parish at any period. Antiquities, — Torfaeus mentions a nunnery, the site of which is obviously indicated by the burn of Closters (cloisters), running through the farm of Redlands, on the estate of Murkle, and not far from a green hillock resembling the Pictish cairns, which abound in the county, and of which there are several in this pa- rish. On the top of the hill of Olrick, on the southern boundary of the parish, there are evident remains of a watch-tower, which, in for- mer tfmes, must have been of no little importance, from the ex- tensive view it commands of the coast and the country round. From this spot the bays of Sandside, Scrabster, Dunnet, Freswick, and Reiss, Dunnet-head, the hills of Canisbay and Noss-head, all in this county, together with some of the islands of Orkney, and also some of the mountainous parts of Sutherland, Moray, Banff, and Aberdeen shires are visible, — affording one of the most exten- sive and finest views to be found in this northern part of the country. On the boundary of the parish on the east, towards Dunnet, it is said there existed a church, the position of which is as- certained by the name of St Coomb's Kirk (perhaps in honour of St Columba), being still given to the spot; and there is a farther tradition, that this church and the adjoining manse^ su^- 62 CAITHNESS*SHIUE. posed to have been the parish church and manse x)f the united pa- rishes of Dunnet and Olrick, were, in the night season, suddenly overwhelmed with sand during the prevalence of a storm, the 'mi- nister and his family effecting their escape with difficulty by the roof; and it is probable that it was at this period thut the adjoin- ing lands of the property of Tain shared the same fete. The dis- trict is now known by the name of the Links of Old Tain. The only other place in the parish worthy of note is Murkle, on the western boundary ; which name is believed to have been ori- ginally Mort Hill, or the field of death, applied in allusion to a bat- tle fought between the Danes and natives, in which thelatter were victorious. It is said that the Scottish chie^ on seeing a lai^ hol- low at the head of Murkle Bay filled with the enemy, called out to his followers, ^^ clear the den,'' which was responded to with such destruction of the invaders, that the place got the name of Clear Den, or Clairden, which it bears to this day. Land'Otoners. — The only two residing heritors are, James Traill, Esq. of Ratter, and James Smith,^ Esq. of Olrig, who have done much for the encouragement and comfort of their numerous te- nantry. The other non-residing heritors are, the Earl of Caith- ness ; Sir John Gordon Sinclair, Bart. ; and the Trustees of the late George Miller, Esq., who bequeathed the small property of Swarclet for the benefit of the poor of the parish of Thurso. III. — Population. By Dr Webster's Report in 1755, - 875 souls. By Sir John Sinclair's Statistical Account in 1792, 1001 By GoTemment census in 1821, • • 1093 By Do. Do. 1831, . . 1146 And by a census taken up by the present parish minister in 1835, in order accurately to meet some Government queries, the population was found to amount to 1352 souls, composed chiefly of farmers, farm-serrants, and labourers. This increase is to be attributed to the erection and prosperity of the village of Castle* town, (the only one in the parish,) on the property of James Traill, Esq. of Ratter, and to the employment and liberal wages through- out the year afforded by him to numerous workmen in raising and preparing pavement for the southern markets. The number of inhabitants in this village, which is rising in importance, from the granting of perpetual feus, and several handsome houses being built in consequence, may be computed at 320 souls. Tlie average of marriages for the last seven years is • 10 births, do. do. - .32 deaths, do. do. • 17 The latter average raised from the effects of small-poz. OLllICK. 63 Id their general character, the people may be stated to be so- ber, industrious, inteltigent, and attentive to the outward ordi- nances of religion. IV. — Industry. Agriculture^ Sfc. — The extent of the parish being about .10,000 acres, 6000 may be reported as cultivated, and the remainder^ with the exception of about 500 acres of links and moss, is ca- pable of cultivation. There are 20 acres under wood on the estates of Castlehill and Olrig. The oldest was planted by the present proprietor, James Traill, Esq. about fifty years ago, consisting principally of ash, plane, elm, oak, mountain-ash, and larch. Some of the trees have grown as high as 50 feet The ash seems to thrive the best Fir does not succeed. Bent. — The rent of arable land varies much, depending in a great measure on proximity to the sea-coast Near the sea it may be stated at from L. I to L. 1, 5s« per acre; in the interior from 12s. to 15s. is near the average. The rate of grazing a cow is L.2 in summer, and L.1, 10s. for wintering. Keep of a Leicester sheep is worth from 15s. to 20s. during the year. fFo^e^.^- Farm-servants' wages are, for men, from L.6 to L.8 in money per annum, with 6^ bolls meal, 2 bolls potatoes, house- room, fire, and a chopin of milk daily. Boys less in proportion* Out-door women get L.d, 4 bolls of meal, with lodgings, fire, milk, and potatoes. House female servants L.d to L.3, 10s. yearly. Harvest labourers are engaged for eight weeks. Men get L. 1, 10s., and one boll meal, with a chopin of milk daily, and a few potatoes; women L.1, and half a boll meal for the harvest, with potatoes and a mutchkin of milk daily. Tlie price of la- bour has risen considerably within the last two years, from the great demand for hands at the stone-works, making roads, fur- row-draining, enclosing, &c. and may be stated for common la- bourers Is. 6d. per day in winter, and Is. lOd. in summer. Wo- men get now pretty generally .6d. a day for turnip-hoeiqg, and 6d. in winter for barn-work, pulling turnips, &c« Wrights, masons, and blacksmiths get about 2s. 6d. per day. Mason-work of ordi- nary wall height and girth measure is done for L.2 per rood of 36 square yards. Blacksmiths get L.2, 10s. per annum for each pair of horses. They uphold the horses' shoes, iron-work of ploughs and carts. Saddlers get from L. 1 to L. 1, 5s. for upholding the harness of each pair of horses during the year. C4 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. Breeds of Live-stock. — The common breed of cattle among the proprietors and larger tenants is a cross with the Highland and Teeswater, which Mr Traill introduced some years ago. They have answered very well, and are a vast improvement compared with the old stock. The smaller tenants still keep the old breed, an inferior description of highlanders. The breed of sheep is the Leicester, which was also introduced by Mr Traill eight years ago : it has succeeded beyond expecta- tion, both as to weight and the quality of the wool. There are now about 1500 sheep of this kind in the parish ; and the num- ber is yearly increasing. Husbandry. — The husbandry of the parish is of all kinds, from the best modern systems to the most antiquated. On the improv- ed farms the five and six shift courses are followed. Turnips eat off with sheep, and business managed much the same as in the southern part of the kingdom. Oa the lands occupied by the smaller tenantry (they occupy more than one-half of the parish,) the system is continual cropping, or nearly so, viz. bear and oats alternately. Numbers are beginning to sow a few turnips and grass-seeds ; but there is scarcely as yet any regular rotation in- troduced. However, with the great command the parish has of manure, viz. marl, sea -weed, and shell-sand, vast quantities of bear and oats are raised of good quality — Angus oats generally weigh- ing from 40 lb. to 42 lb. per bushel, and bear from 48 lb. to 52 .lb. A part of the parish ( Murkle) is remarkable for producing black oats. They degenerate everywhere else by repeated sowing except here ; the consequence of which is, that the whole coun- ty take a change of seed of their oats from Murkle. The mode of reclaiming waste lands is, — first enclose with ditch and thorn hedge, protected with flagsseton edge ; then drain out the springs with three feet or four feet drains as required ; plough in and allow it to lie a year or more ; lay on marl or shell sand at the rate of twenty to twenty-five loads per acre ; then cross plough and work it dQwn for turnips with dung, or bone-dust, or both ; feed the turnips off with sheep ; then oats, or bear and grass seeds ; then pasture with sheep for a few years ; and the land is general- ly afterwards fit for any rotation. The quality of the soil being good, considerable progress is made and making in thus reclaim- ing waste lands. Furrow draining has also been introduced on Mr Traill's estate. The effect is wonderful, and the practice will, though expensive, in a few years, be common. OLRICK. 66 The principal tenants have in general leases of from fourteen to twenty-one years, with stipulations as to propping. The small occu« piers are at willf and are wearing out^ — the tendency of the present system of improvement being to throw the whole lands into large farms. Where the farms are large the steadings are substantial and com- modious ; slates, flags, and building stones of the best quality be- ing abundant ; the fences are also very good, either stone walls or hedges protected with flags. On the small ferms the houses are al- most wholly built with feal covered ^th divots, — chimneys few in number — and fences of a very indifferent description. The principal improvements made in the parish have been done by James Traill, Esq. of Ratter, and James Smith, Esq. of Olrig. The other proprietors are non-resident, and do not seem to give much attention to their estates. Mr Traill may well be called the author of all improvements in the county ; which a single view of his property in this parish, after surveying Caithness, will sufficiently testify, either as regards culture, plantations, build- ings, harbours, roads, live-stock, or crops ; indeed, what he has ac- complished could scarcely be credited as being the work of one in- dividual, and is and will be a great example to Caithness proprie- tors in all time coming. The obstacles to improvements are the state of occupancy by small tenants, and the want of capital. The rental of the parish is about L. 4000 a year ; L. 50,000 laid out on buildings, enclosures, roads, and drains, would not do more than put the parish into a fair state of cultivation. It is, therefore, easily seen that its final improvement must be a work of time. The facilities of procuring manure ; the excellent materi- als for buildings, enclosures, and drains, got from the refuse of the flag quarries, are its great advantages, and will ultimately produce great results. The surface is capable of producing more than double of what it does at present ; and as a matter of course will pay double rent ; there is, therefore, little doubt, that ere long, in consequence of easy access to the southern markets by the aid of steam-vessels, that capital will find its way to call out the dormant and neglected resources of this and every other parish in the coun- ty of Caithness. V. — Parochial Economy. The parish is well accommodated with roads. The county line, from Thurso to Wick, passes through it, and there is no CAITHNESS. E 66 CA1THNES8-SH1UE. , deficiency of cross-roads. There is a daily post between Castle- town and Thurso ; and a. regular carrier to Wick. Ecclesiastical State. — The present church, conveniently situate4 for the parish, seems to have been built in 1633, and though fre- quently repaired, has never had any addition made to it It has never been divided^ nor seated at the expense of the heritors. It affords accommodation for only 403 sitters, at 18 inches; and this being far below what the increasing population require of seat- room, the heritors have lately adopted a very handsome plan by Mr David Cousin, architect in Edinburgh, agreeable to which a new church is now building, which .will afford the requisite ac- commodation, and be a great ornament to the village of Castle- town, at the east end of which it is situated. The maqse was built about fifty years ago, and along with the offices underwent consider- able repairs in 1825. There is a glebe attached to it of 8 Scotch acres, which may be valued at L. 10. The amount of stipend is 14 chalders, half barley and half oatmeal, with L. 8, 6s. dd. for communion elements. The number of communicants is 120. There is no Dissenting place of worship in the parish ; the num- ber of Dissenters is under 100 ; and these belong to the Original Seceders, Independents, and Baptists, the great majority of whom readily signed a late petition to the Legislature in behalf of the ex- tension and endowment of the Established Church. Education, — There are one parochial and four other schools in the parish. About one* eighth of the population may be comput- ed as attending school. The salary of the parish teacher is the maximum. All the usual branches of a classical and commercial education are taught. The fees are moderate, in no case exceeding 7s. per quarter, whatsoever branches are taught. The other teachers are upon their own adventure. There is not a person in the pa- rish above five years of age but who can read, and, with few ex- ceptions, also write. The children of such as are in indigent circumstances are educated gratuitously. There is a Sabbath school, where the youth of both sexes are carefully instructed in the principles of the Christian religion. Library. — There is a parish library consisting of some hun- dred volumes of useful books, of a miscellaneous and religious character. Friendly Societies. — Of these there are three in the parish, from 4 OLRICK. 67 whicb much benefit has been derived by the aged and infirm, as well as by widows and orphans. Allowances are also made for de- fraying the funeral expenses of members and their widows. The Castletown Society alone, since its commencement in 1797, has distributed nearly L. 4000. These Societies have prevented many from being on the poor's roll. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 35, whose circumstances are taken into due consideration without any special or fixed sum being allotted. There is a mortification of L. 100, left by the late Dr Oswald of Scotstown, the interest of which, along with L. 25 of collections, and some seat-rents in the church, under the direction of the ses- sion, placed at their disposal last year L. 36, 12s. 4d. There is no assessment of the heritors. Particular care is taken in the ad- mission of parties on the poor roll — ^vagrancy is discouraged — no pauper certificate for begging has been granted during the last fifteen years — and in various cases, the heritors and parishioners have subscribed liberally, in order to prevent families from be- coming a permanent burden upon the parish. Fairs. — There are three annual fairs held in the parish, in March, June, and November, for the sale and purchase of cattle. Inns, — There are two in the parish, which are well kept, but one would be fully sufficient for the accommodation required by travellers. Fuel, — Moss is not very abundant in this parish ; but there is now an abundant supply of English coal to be had at the village of Castletown : it is conveyed in vessels that are constantly ar- riving at Castlehill for cargoes of pavement. October 1840. PARISH OF HALKIRK. PRESBYTERY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OP SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. JOHN MUNRO, MINISTER- I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The ancient name of this parish was St Fergus and St Thomas. It had this name because the pari^sh of St Fergus was united to that of St Thomas's soon after or about the time of the Reformation. It is very probable that the tract of country now known by the name of the parish of Halkirk, or the united parishes of Halkirk and Skinnet, contained at some remote period more than the two parishes above alluded to : the number of bury- ing grounds, and the ruins of several places of worship, afford a presumptive proof of this. Some of these, however, are said to have been chapelries in the times of Popery. The etymology of the modern name, Halkirk, is involved in the greatest obscurity, and, as there is no tradition regarding it, the conjectures of ima- gination are the only sources from which any thing probable can be drawn. Extent^ Sfc, — The very irregular figure of the parish makes it diflScult to ascertain its real extent. The extreme length is 24 miles, the breadth varies from 12 to 3 miles. From these const- derationsy we may suppose that the parish contains about 90 or 92 square miles. The parish is bounded on the north by the pa- rish of Thurso ; on the north-east and east by the parishes of Bow- er and Watten ; on the south and south-west by the parishes of Latheron, Kildonan, and Reay ; on the west by Dorrory, a detach- ed part of the parish of Thurso ; and on the north- west by the pa- rish of Reay. Topographical Appearances. — There is neither hill nor moun- tain remarkable for height in the parish, except the Spittal hill, partly in this parish and partly in the parish of Watten, and about three miles south-east from the church of Halkirk. The elevation of this hill above the level of the sea is not known ; its height, how- HALKIRK. CO •ever, is such that the greater part of the county may be seen fronti Its summit. From time immemorial till within the last seven or eight years, it was customary to have an annual market on the very top of this hill. From the name of the market, the Jamesmas^ it is evident that it had its origin during the prevalence of Popery in Scotland. This market is now held in a place equally centrical and far easier of access, and will be afterwards mentioned under another head. Hydrography. — There is a considerable number of lakes in the parish, from twenty-two to twenty-four, including small and great The loch of Calder is about d^ miles in length, and from one mile to half a mile in breadth. The next in magnitude is Loch- more, which differs very little in size from the other. Both these lochs have a very pleasing effect on the scenery. In travel- ling towards either of them a person does not see them till they burst at once on his view, and they form a striking and a lively contrast to the moss and the heath with which they are surrounded. There are two rivers which pass through the parish. By the inhabitants of this parish, the principal of these rivers is called the river of Halkirk, but at Thurso, near which it enters the sea, it is called the river of Thurso. The source of this river is Alltan na cat^ or Cat'sbrook, which is about eight miles south-west from Lochmore and in Sutherlandshire. Though this brook is considered the source of the river, there are several lakes, upwards of twenty, which pour their waters into the river. Some of these lakes are in this parish, and some in the mountains which divide this county from Sutherlandshire. As this river flows through a wide extent of country it receives into its channel and discharges into the sea a great quantity of water. After much rain or a rapid thaw it overflows its banks, and, du- ring the harvest months, has at times done great damage to grass and other crops which lie within its range. Its course is nearly through the centre of the parish; and, taking into calculation its various windings, its length from the source to its junction with the sea is from 40 to 50 miles. Th^ other river, that of Forssy, divides this parish from Reay on the north-west, and joins the sea at Forss, in the parish of Thurso. This river, after great falls of rain, comes down in torrents, and does much injury to corn and grass in low situations near its course. It is from 15 to 20 miles in length. Trout and salmon are taken in both the rivers, and trout of various kinds in the lakes. — There are two springs in the 70 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. parish which may be noticed. Tobair Acraig, the well of Halkirk, about a mile south-east from the church, is believed to be medi* dual, and partakes of the nature of chalybeate waters^i The other is at the north-west end of the Loch of Calder^ and is belieyed by the inhabitants in its vicinity to be useful for the cure of diseases. It is of the same nature with the one just mentioned. It may be observed that marl is found in the Loch of Calder, and that, a year or two ago, exertions were made, which are still persevered ipi to raise it by meatis of a boat having niachinery attached for the purpose. Another loch, that of Leurary, the whple bottom of which is a bed of marl, was drained a number of years ago, and the loch being now di7, this substance is easily obtained, and is found very useful for agricultural purposes. II. — Civil History. Land'Oumers. — The land-own^rs in this parish are. Sir Greorge Sinclair of Ulbster, Bart. M. P. for the county ; Lord Duffus ; Sir Patrick M. fi. Thriepland of Fingask and TofUngal, Bart. ; James Sinclair, Esq. of Forss ; Charles S. Quthrie, Esq. of Scots Calder; Donald Home, Esq. of Langwell ; David Henderson, Esq. of Westerdale ; James Smith, Esq. of Olrig ; and Adam Duff, Esq. of Banniskirk. None of these except Mr Henderson of Wester- dale reside in the parish. Parochial Registers. — The old registers of this parish were de*- stroyed many years ago by some ill disposed persons. The present ones commence with the year 1790. Antiquities. — One of the relics of antiquity in this parish is the Castle of Brawl. It is situated on the north bank of the river Thurso, which flows through the middle of a valley, long and broad, commencing to form at the sea, and extending fully twelve miles into the interior. A place equidistant from both the extremities of this valley, and at which there is a peculiar winding in the course of the river, attractive and pleasing to the eye, is the spot chosen for this once strong and well forti&ed, but now ruined haunt of ancient heroes. Under the general designation, Castle of Brawl, are comprehended two distinct buildings, belonging to different eras of architecture. The most ancient of these is a tower 39 by 86 feet ; and there still remain 35 feet of the height. The walls are 9 feet thick ; and in the centre of the east wall is formed a stone stair leading to the very top of the building. In the walls there are several recesses 2 feet and 2 feet 8 inches in breadth, which may contain two or three persons in a standing po- HALKIRK. 71 sitioD. These recesses diminish gradually both in height and breadth towards the outside of the wall^ and each of them ends in a narrow opening, which appears to have admitted all the light which found an entrance to this gloomy abode of the heroes of battle and of rapine. These openings seem also to have been ca)* culated as convenient positions from which those within the castle could shoot at such of their foes as dared attack them in this fkst^ ness, which, before the invention of gunpowder, must have been of considerable strength* There are other recesses in the walls, not unlike small rooms, 5, 6, 7, and 8 feet long, by 3, 4, and 5 broad, and 6^9 7, and 8 feet high. On the ground floor in the north side there is a strongly built dismal hole, 10 or 12 feet by 4^, and about the same height with those already mentioned. It is cover* ed with massy stones, and must from its appearance have been a place either of concealment or of imprisonment The whole su* perstructiire is of a hard durable species of stone found in the vi«> cinity. On the north-»west side of the tower there is a fosse, 6 feet deep, and about 20 broad, which protected it on that side, and the river afforded it some defence on the other. The other building in ruins, or rather the commencement of a more spacious and com« modious castle, projected on a more elegant plan, belongs to a more improved era of architecture, and is of a modern date com* pared to the tower. The front height of this ruin varies from 12 to 15 feet. The building is erected on a bank elevated 6 or 7 feet above the bed of the river, and looks towards the east, on which side, and within a very short distance thereof, the river flows with a murmuring hum over a rough stony channel. AH that seems to have been built of this well projected and pleasantly si- tuated castle is the ground floor, 100 feet in length by 50 in breadth, divided into six vaults, four of which have two port-holes in each ; and there is one in each end of a passage which runs be- twixt the end and the centre vaults. The diameter of these port- holes varies from 3^ to 4^ inches. Each vault has a door com- municating with the passage just mentioned, and to each end of which there is a stair descending from the back of the building. The dimensions of these vaults are 16 and 17 feet square, by 12 in height Some of them have small windows 1^ feet by 1 foot All the light admitted into two of them enters through a very nar- row opening above the port-holes. By whom and at what period the tower was built and inhabited, and by whom the more modem building was commenced and so far carried on, are questions not 72 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. easily soWed. Some say that the former was inhabited by a su(> cession of the Bishops of Caithness and Sutherland, and that the latter, so far as it was finished, was the work of one of these bi- shops The only foundation for this lame tradition is a story, quite a true one, that one of the bishops who occupied the see was burnt by some lawless miscreants in his castle of Halkirk. There is no reason for confounding Halkirk with Brawl, as they are on opposite sides of the river. The place where the horrid de^ was perpetrated was a residence which the bishops had on the Hal- kirk bank of the river, opposite the Castle of Brawl. There is no vestige of a ruin to point out where the bishop's residence stood. It is probable, however, it was in a field to the north-east •of the present manse, where the parochial ministers had their re- sidence till the present house was built. The total removal <^ every stone of this building has obliterated the memory of its ex- istence. This has been the means of ascribing to the bishops the ruins which remain ; it has been the means of placing them in a tower over which they never had any control; and of fathering on their invention and power a project which never owed its form or its existence either to their wealth or to their contrivance. The more probable opinion is, that the Castle of Brawl was a residence of the Harolds and Sinclairs, who were Earls of Caithness, the former at a very early period, and the latter ever since the Ha- rolds lost the title. At Brawl there is an extensive garden, by far the most ancient in the county, belonging to the family of Ulb- ster, which, notwithstanding its northern latitude, and its being ra- ther neglected, produces considerable quantities of fruit, and in and around it stand chestnut, ash, and elm trees, of good size both in height and circumference. There was also a castle on the rugged crag of Dirlot, said to have been inhabited by a bold and daring freebooter of the name of Sutherland, a near relation of the Dunrobin Sutherlands, whose lands of Dylrid and Cattak were forfeited for treason, and given to M*Kay of Strathnaver by charter, dated at Inverness, 4th November 1489. The rock of Dirlot is said to have been sur- rounded at one time by the river, and accessible only by a draw- bridge. The nature of the ground gives some countenance to this tradition ; but now the river flows entirely on one side of the crag, on whose summit the gray remains of the castle are to be seen. There was also a place of defence, and of no small im- portance, at the north corner of Lochmore, where the river issues HALKIRK. 73 from that lake. There was another at the east end of the Loch of Calder. These relics of towers, castles, and forts, are the only monuments remaining of the wealth and the power of the chief- tains of days that are gone ; these are the only remnants of their possessions ; the only indications of their greatness. The fame of their possessors is not recorded in story : if the bard ever sung of their valour ; if tradition for a while spoke of their achievements in war, or commended their heroism in the day of battle, the song of the one is no longer sung in the hall, and the tongue of the other is for ever silent. If a little green hill, or three gray stones did for years point out the tomb of their rest, they are now thoughtlessly trodden upon by a race to whom their names and their deeds are alike unknown. If a rude unsculptured pillar marked out the spot or the field where they fell, it stands on a lonely moor, or the side of a barren hill, without a name engraved either by tool or tradition. There are also some remains of ecclesiastical antiquity. Of these are the relics of St Thomas's Chapel at Skinnet Here was left to stand the sacred chair of St Thomas, of exquisite workmanship in stone, an object of some curiosity ; it may be of superstitious veneration, till broken down and used in building a fence. Within the walls of the chapel which still remain, as well as in the ground around, a few continue to bury their dead. There was another of these chapels at Banniskirk, of which there are no remains ; its stones have been removed, and the silent mansions of the dead, by which it was surrounded, have been ploughed up, and added to an adjoining field ! A third of these ruined chapels, St Magnus, said to have been founded by the same individual who was the originator and the bene&ctor uf the Kirkwall Cathedral, is at a place called Spittal. It appears to have been 60 feet by 20, and the walls, though in a dilapidated condition, have been left to decay under the slow but sure process of the blasting elements, and the demolishing progress of time ; and no views of expediency have induced the proprietor of the lands on which it is built to increase his re- venues by demolition and sacrilege ; nor has the occupant of the farm, in the centre of which it stands, so for forgotten the reve- rence due to the mighty dead, as to enlarge his fields by disturb- ing their repose, scattering their ashes, and exposing their bones to the bleaching influence of sun and of rain. Here was the ce- metery of the clan Gunn, at one time a powerful and a warlike 74 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. race, who inhabited the mountainous parts of this cotiiity, as well as the Kildonan district of the Sutherland county, and who, not- withstanding the high mountains, the many mosses and morasses which intervene to render the journey tedious and laborious, are said to have carried their dead, especially the remains of their chiefs and principal men, from the glens of the Crask and Knock- finn, in order to be interred in the Chapel of SpittaL There was, besides, the Chapel of St Peter at Olgnimore, that of St Columba at Dirlot, and that of St Ciran in Strathm6re« These last bear the names of the early propagators of Christianity in Scotland ; but whether built in their time, or by others in honour of them after their day, is a subject that must for ever remain in doubt. If the pure doctrines of Christianity were for a time declared in these ancient places of worship, it is certain, that during the dark ages they were the temples of idols and their superstitious wor- shippers. In proof of this, it is traditionally reported, that a band of marauders made the image of St Ciran the butt of their arrows, and thus for their own amusement destroyed the last of the dumb idols worshipped in this part of the country. Of the Clachans of Gerston and Achardale, little remains except the name, and the jcertainty that each of them contains the ashes of the dead. It is evident from this enumeration of ruined chapels, whatever was the quality of the instruction given, that the people had more easy access to the public worship than at present Whatever su- perior advantages the present generation enjoy compared to those that are gone, it appears that the latter were more zealous in sup- porting a false religion than the former are in supporting and at- tending the pure doctrines of the Gospel. III. — Population. Were we to be guided by the former Statistical Account, we would be led to think that the population was greater at the time it was written than at present There cannot, however, be the least ground for such an opinion, as the Government census shows an increase at each of the periods it was taken. No part of the parish has been depopulated, and, in moors where ten years ago there was no house, a considerable number of dwellings is now built The occupiers improve as much of the waste ground as their circumstances enable them. The gradual increase of the population is to be attributed to the cultivation of waste ground, — the improvement of which is carried on by those poor and indus- trious individuals who build houses in moors, and by farmers who HALK1R{C. 75 employ labourers to cultivate wastes adjacent to the arable land they occupy. Thus there is a demand for labour, and the soil yields a produce su£Scient to remunerate the farmer for the capi- tal he may have laid out. In 1881 the popuktion w»t 2847, ti'z. 1822 males ; 1525 fetnalet. In 1836, - 3065 of whom about 1180 were under 15 yean of age, 875 were between 15 and 30 years, 645 - 30 and 50 294 - 50 and 70 91 were upwards of 70 years* There is a population of 1 70 in the village of Halkirk, and the rest spread over the extent of the parish. The average number of marriages is 18 in the year, and of baptisms, 74. There is no register of deaths kept. Language. — The Gaelic language and the Scotsr dialect of English are spoken in the parish. A considerable majority of the old people speak the Gaelic ; but there are not many of the young who cannot speak the Scotch, which, it is acknowledged, prevails now more than it did thirty or forty years ago. According to the usages of this parish, and, indeed, of the county, the terms for hiring farm as well as domestic servants, commence for the summer half year on the 20th of June, and for the winter half year on the 26th of November, or the 9th of June, and 15th of November old style. This is a very unequal division of the year, inasmuch as it makes a difference of very nearly seven weeks betwixt the summer and the winter half year. But this is not all ; for servants who complete their service on the 20th of June are not considered entitled to their wages till towards the end of August, — the time of a great annual market at Thurso, and as a great number of servants attend this market it gives them an opportunity of mis-spending their wages. A servant, whose term of service ends on the 26th of November, is not paid his wages till the 12th of January thereafter, which is the day observed by the country people as New- Year's Day, — a time when servants are too apt to spend their hard-earned penny in drink and other equally useless purposes. The dwelling-houses of the peasantry, constructed without much regard to the rules of architecture, have a forbidding appearance. This description is applicable to the greater number of houses. In most cases, all the houses neces- sary for the generality of tenants are built in a continued line. The barn and the kiln are in one end of this line> after these fol- lows the dwelling-house, generally divided into three apartments. »•£? 76 CAITUNESS-SHIRE. After this come the byre, stable, and other necessary houses, ar- ranged in an order by no means the most convenient or pleasing. Some have of late built houses of better construction, which have a more pleasing aspect, and must at the same time afford their oc- cupiers more comfort than houses built after the structure follow- ed till very lately in this county. It may be mentioned that at- tention is paid to cleanliness, both in the domestic economy and dress of the peasantry, and the sober and the industrious enjoy that share of the comforts of life with which people in the lower ranks are generally found to be content ; and that they are so in this parish, the writer knows from the experience of several years spent among them. In a population so great, there must of neces- sity be individuals of very different dispositions, and of various de- grees of intelligence ; but, keeping out of view occasional brawls and a few squabbles which very seldom occur, the great mass of the population is to be considered as composed of good moral charac- ters, who, in outward behaviour, conduct themselves in a manner becoming the Christian name ; and there is a reason to hope, that not a few have felt the vital influences of the gospel of peace. The whole of the inhabitants, with the exception of thirtyrthree* individuals, are attached to the Established Church of Scotland. Making allowances for the distances which they have to travel, and the very bad roads by which they must come, the people on the whole are regular in attending public worship on the Sabbath, as well as catechetical exercises on week-days. That they are exempted from the failings and short-comings of our nature, is what can be neither expected nor affirmed. That a few young men, prompted by folly and the mere love of sport, should occasionally trespass against the game laws, can surprise no one who considers the temptations to which individuals are exposed in a place where wide extended moors, with abundance of game, are inducements to the sportsman too powerful to be resisted. This is not an apo- logy for breaches of law ; it is a mere statement of facts, which, when considered, must make the rarity of such breaches highly creditable to the inhabitants of remote districts, who can often commit a trespass of this nature without the least fear of de- tection. IV. — Industry. Agrictdture.--^The parish, as already observed, may be cousi- * Of these, six, an exciseman and his family, who were Episcopalians, have lately left the parish. 3 HALKIRK. 77 dered in extent as about 90 or 92 square miles,— 73,600 imperial acres : about 6000 of these are cultivated, as many under natural or meadow grass, and the rest is moor, moss, lakes, rivers, &c« The rate of annual rent is as high as L. 1, 10s. and as low as 2s. 6d. per acre. From what has already been done, it is quite evident that a great proportion of what is now waste ground might be im« proved to advantage, and, were the people encouraged to labour in this work, many would undertake the cultivation of such ground in preference to going to America at the imminent risk of their lives, and in violation of those feelings which make man cleave to the rugged rocks of his native mountain, the remembrance of which is associated in foreign climes with his recollection of the home and the country of his fathers. It is much to be regretted that those who do their utmost to subdue the stubborn soil of the moor and the mountain meet with so little encouragement. Instead of being made to pay a rent of ds. or 2s. 6d. for every acre brought into cultivation, it would be better policy to give four times the sum for every acre so cultivated, for at least five or six years after a poor person commences such laborious and expensive work, and then a moderate rent might be charged for an equal number of years. A plan of this nature would encourage individuals to improve waste grounds, which, as they are, yield no food for man, no re^ venue for the proprietors, — whereas, by following a different system from that adopted, they might be made to support the labourer, and to pay the landlord a certain per centage for moneys expended in inducing people to embark in the work. A good deal is cer- tainly done, but infinitely more would be cheerfully performed under a system which would hold out inducements for adding to what ope may already possess, instead of deterring him from doing anything that way, by the certainty of 5s. being added to his rent for every acre brought into cultivation. Quarries. — There are quarries of limestone in different parts of the parish. The lime made from these is used in masonry ; but it answers better in agricultural processes than for any other use it can be applied to. There are also quarries of flags. These are much used in flooring in country houses ; they are also used in paving ; for which they are remarkably well adapted. Great numbers of them are annually exported to Leith, Aberdeen, &c. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Toum. — The nearest market-town is Thurso, which is about seven miles from the parish church. 78 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. Means of CommunicatiofL'-^There are three roads through the parish by which people can travel to Thurso ; these are not finish- ed to the different extremities of the parish. They have been made within the last three years on Macadam's principles, and are in very good repair. An annual market is held in thq Tillage of Halkirk on the Tuesday before the 26th December. Its name is St Magnus ; it is not much attended. Another annual market is held within two miles of the church. The site of this mar- ket is the hill of Ruggy, which is partly in this parish, and partly in the parishes of Thurso and Bower. The market is principally a cattle one ; the situation is centrical ; and people from all parts of the county can conveniently attend. Five roads may be said to lead to the place where it is held : one from Thurso^ one through Bower and Watten, one from Wick, one from Latheron, and one through this parish. There are two bridges on the river of Halkirk ; one at the vil- lage not more than a quarter of a mile from the church. It was built in 1731, consists of three arches, and is very convenient and useful. It has of late undergone considerable repairs, and, if no unforeseen accident happen, it may stand for centuries to come. The other bridge is at Dale, five miles farther up the river than the Halkirk bridge. It contains two arches, each thirty feet span. It is quite new, having been finished in 1834. There is also a timber bridge in the Mission at Dirlot It is intended for the con- venience of people coming to hear preaching at the Mission-house, and is equally convenient for general and ordinary communication. There is a mile of turnpike road passing through a comer of the parish, and the mail-coach passes through this part of the pa- rish twice every day, but the inhabitants do not enjoy the benefit of it, for all letters for the parish are carried to Thurso, and some- times lie there a day or two before they are brought to the Bridge- end of Halkirk, to which there is a penny-bag thrice a week. This is kept up at an expense of L. 9, — a much greater expenditure than could be incurred were there a bag with all letters for the pa- rish left at one or other of the houses in that part of the parish through which the mail passes. Besides this mile of turnpike, there are three branches of county road, — ^the whole making an aggregate of about fifteen miles. Ecclesiastical State* — The church is situated on the east side of the river, — near the extremity of the parish on that side, — on the other, however, the parish extends three miles towards Thurso. HALKIRK. 79 The distance from the church to Achpheadair (PeterVfield) and Knockglass, the extremities on the west and north-west, is from five to six miles and a-half; the distance to Banniskirk and Achchipster, the extremities on the east and south-east, is three miles and a-half to the former, and six and a-half to the latter ; and the distance to Dalghanachain, Glutt, and Rumsdale, the utmost extremity to the south, is from twenty to twenty-four miles. The church was built in 1753^ and underwent a substantial repair in 1833. It accommo- dates about 756 individuals ; 18 sittings are set apart for the poor by the heritors, and about 20 are provided for them by the minis- ter and session, by placing benches in wide passages. Till after the last repair of the church, none of the heritors rented their pro- portion of sittings in the church; some of them have since let the sittings to the tenants, and others have not A few farmers have claimed and obtained the same right to a seat in the church that they had previous to the repair. The highest rent charged for a sitting is 4s. and the lowest Is. The manse was built about the same time with the church, and underwent some repairs in 1823. The extent of the glebe is from 7^ to 8 imperial acres ; this in- cludes the site of the manse, the garden, &c. The annual value of the whole is from L. 8 to L, 10. The stipend is )5 chalders of victual, half meal and half barley, and L. 10 for communion elements. There is a missionary employed in the most distant parts of the parish, who is partly supported by the Committee for managing the Royal Bounty, and partly by the inhabitants of the mission district of the parish. The missionary has three preach- ing stations — one at Achrenny in this parish ; one at Halsary in the parish of Watten ; and the third at Halladale in the parish of Reay. To the Halsary district there is attached a part of the pa- rish of Latheron. The population in this parish within the bounds of the mission is 784 ; these are very much scattered, and are often prevented from attending the missionary's preaching by the river and other streams, which, especially during the winter and spring, are so much swollen, and that perhaps on the day the missionary is to preach in the district, that it is impossible for many to attend, and very likely they will not hear sermon again till the missionary is there three weeks thereafter. This produces great evils, — it begets indifference to the means of grace, and at last, in too many cases, a total neglect of these means. This is not to be attributed to the missionary, nor, humanly speaking, to the people, but to the system on which the mission is established, hO CAITUNESS-SniRE. and the utter impoft»ibility of any one man being able, howeier giftml with abiliiiet and zeal, to discharge aright duties requiring continual derotedneif and unwearied labours to perform them either with succom of eflBciency. Is it to be supposed that a mi- mnicr can administer religious instruction to a population of at least 2500, scattered over the remote parts of three parishes, and the greater number of the distant glens and valleys in the high and mountainous districts of the county of Caithness ? Here is committed to the pastoral superintendence of a missionary a boun- doryi tlie extremes of which^ by a practicable road, are from forty to fifty miles distant from one another. The distance, however, is the least of the obstructions in the missionary's way, and of the difliculties ho has to encounter in the discharge of his highly im- portant duties : there are moors, mosses, and quaking fens which dlHJoin ono valley from another, and which make it impossible, ez« copt by circuitous routes, to pass from glen to glen during the win- tor and spring months. The number of sittings in the mission hoUHO is 403| of which 35 1 were let when a survey was made dur- ing the spring of last year ; the highest rent charged is Is. and the In wont (Ul. |>cr sitting. The whole church accommodation then in tlif> |mrish is 1150 sittings, which is by far too few were the ppopio within a distance that could enable them to attend regu- iiirlVi It in \)uo»tionAblO| however, how far the mission^house, t^^^^\\ tho oih'umManoos mcnCioned, with preaching once in the ihtvo wivks \\\\^\\\ to Ih« nH?koned church accommodation. There iMi^ l\N^^ ^"tittH'hiittjt oniploYinl by the minister and session, but they i^w \s\\\s\'\\M\\\) |Hiid by the j)arishioners. The parish church and ||u» tMiulon \A\\\[i^\ are the only places of worship in the parish. 'l\\\i totui \^t M denominations who do not attend public worship In ihn ICxttiblished Church is about 83 individuals; some of these ^{p St»omlor(i, others Independents, and a few Baptists and Epis^ impMlitinti. 'l1io number of communicants in the parish is 1 10. These bear a NUUill proportion to the population ; but it is better to have a few whoso walk and conversation are in conformity with the faith and the doctrines of Christianity, than to admit a promiscuous multi- tude, whose only motive might be the enjoyment of the outward privileges conferred on the partakers of this sacrament. Education. — The number of schools taught in the parish during the last two or three years is 13. One of these is the parochial school ; another is supported by the Societv in Scotland for Pro- HALKIRK. 81 pagating Christian Knowledge; and the others, three of which are female schools, are wholly supported by the parents of the chil- dren. The branches taught are, reading, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, English grammar, and at the parochial school Latin and all the other branches. The salary for the parochial school is the maximum, and the Society for Propagating Christian Know- ledge allow their teacher at Assary L.ld. l^e amount of fees varies according to attendance, from L. 3 to L. 5, per quarter ; the quarterly fees for each individual is Is. 6d. for reading; 2s. for reading and writing ; 2s. 6d. for arithmetic; 3s. for book-keep- ing and English grammar; and 5s, for Latin and geography. That the people are alive to the benefits of education, is evident from their supporting so many schools at their own charges, to in- struct their children in the elements of reading, writing, and arith- metic Were schools established at all the stations at which the people employ teachers, the inhabitants generally would be within such a distance of a school as would put it in their power to cause their children attend. The total number of children who attend- ed the different schools during the year 1835 was 411, and the average number for some years is 390. Friendly Societies, — There are five Friendly Societies in the pa- rish. The object of these is to give a weekly allowance to sick members, a sum for funeral charges when any of the member's fa- mily dies, and a quarterly allowance to the widows of members, who shall have contributed to the funds of the society at least se- ven years previous to their death. The total number of members in these five societies is 644 ; and the number of widows support- ed by them is 29. The funds of the Halkirk Village Society amount to L. 300. This is the first that was established in the parish. The others have been instituted at various periods since ; and one thing that stimulated their founders to get them establish- ed may have been the success that attended the first. These societies are useful, inasmuch as they put in the power of heads of families to provide so far for their wives and children, as to leave them independent of parochial relief.* Poor and Parochial Funds. — The anual average number receiv- ing parochial relief during the last ten years has been 95 ; and the average yearly sum given to each is 5s. Some of the absentee • Since the above was written, an innovation has been introduced into these so. cieties, which is likely to end in the dissolution of some of them. The cash was given out to some necessitous members, and, as this in too many instances was done without proper security, the money is not likely to be all repaid. CAITHNESS. F 82 CAlTHNESS-SHIltE. heritors give occasionally a donation of L. 1 or L. 2, in aid of the poor's funds. There has been received in this way since 1828, about Li 13, 7s. There are two legacies of L. 100 each, the in- terest of which is given to the poor. The average of the church collections for the last few years has been L. 20, which, with the interest of the L. 200 and the donations, generally amount to L. 80 or L. 32. Out of this sum the session pay their clerk, pre- centor, officer, &c This, the only mode of supplying the wants of the poor, is, (except in very few cases,) found adequate to re- lievo tho poor and the needy, on whose part there is no desire to become chargeable to the parish when they can avoid it ; indeed, tho very small sum the funds afford is no inducement to any, ex- cept tho truly destitute, to apply for parochial relief. In addition to what the very poorest receive from the session, they beg among tho farmers, who are sufficiently liberal in giving them meal and other provisions, fully as acceptable to, and necessary for the poor aM money. Inns. — In tho village of Halkirk there are three inns, and four in other parts of the parish. Of the whole, three might be re- quiroil, but it is most surprising how such public nuisances are ullowod to increase to so alarming an extent, to the manifest in- jury of tho nu)ral$ of the youth of the parish. |>VirA — Thort^ is great abundance of moss in every part of the |mri>h« fr\>m which tho inhabitants have an excellent supply of |H^Us tho only fuel usoil in the parish. Every farmer is allowed to out as nmuY |H>ats on his landlord's property as he requires, iMul» a!«t fannors either cut and bring home their own peats, or em- \Ao\ thoir servants in doing so, the expense is very little, and sel- dom thought of, as the people have more time than money. General Observations. The most striking contrast betwixt the present state of the pa- rish and its state forty years ago is, that there is more cultivation carried on, — more of the waste grounds improved, — a better system of husbandry introduced, — and the quantity of grain raised is much greater than at the former period. The new roads lately made, and those intended to be made, as soon as an increase in the funds at the disposal of the trustees permits, will, in the course of some years, enable landlords and tenants to carry on improvements,, which must convince almost every one how little has yet been done of what it is possible to accomplish. Drawn up in 1834, Revised October 1840. PARISH OF LATHERON. PRESBTTERT OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OP SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. GEORGE DAVIDSON, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Extenty Sfc. — The parish of Latheron is situated on the south* east coast of Caithness, and bounded in that direction by the Ger- man Ocean and Moray Frith ; on the west, by Sutherlandshire ; and on the north and east, by the parishes of Halkirk, Watten, and Wick. It is 27 miles in length along the sea coast, and from 10 to 15 in breadth, containing about 300 square miles. Name. — By the last Statistical Account, the ancient name of the parish is said to be ^* Loinn^ derived from Luidhoiu, which signifies, in the Gaelic, lodged or bedded hear^ because the lands contiguous to the church are of a good quality, and yield excellent bear." But there is another derivation, which has always appeared to the present writer equally probable and rather more natural, viz. from the Gaelic words Ldthair Roin, which signifies the re^ sort of seals, — a species of animal with which the whole coast is covered. Numbers of them are still taken, as will afterwards be noticed, and no doubt, in former times, the oil obtained from them afforded one means of support to the inhabitants. Besides, this derivation seems to accord best with the Gaelic name Latham, and to admit of a more easy transition into the modem or English name of Latheron. But especially it will be found by a reference to the Norse or Icelandic language, that the derivation here pre- ferred is much confirmed as to its probable correctness, — the words in that language having very much the same meaning. There is also another derivation suggested by the aspect of the parish, which seems scarcely less probable than that now conjec- tured, viz. from the Gaelic Lath-ar-shdnny signifying the day of the slaughter of heroes, or Lathair shonn^ the place of heroes. Indeed, considering the ancient predilection for commemorating 84 CAITHNESS-SHIRK. the warlike achievements of heroes who had particularly singalized themselves, together with the many relics of bloody warfare still extant, this derivation has strong claims to a preference to the former. Topographical Appearance, — The general aspect of the parish is remarkably diversiGed, presenting a continued and frequently rapid succession of ^* hill and valley ;" in which respect^ it forms a strik- ing contrast to all the other parishes in the county. In the western extremity, in particular, the ravines are so deep and precipitous as to render the access to them difficult and sometimes dangerous ; whilst in the same quarter, the hills and mountains of various height and figure are in great abundance. Of the former the Ord of Caithness, Brenahegleish, and Benachieit are of chief importance, and of the latter M6r-bheiu or Morven, Scaraben, and the Pap, are most conspicuous. The view fnim their summits is very ex«> tensive, embracing, in a clear atmosphere, a great part of twelve different counties, besides a vast range of the Atlantic and Ger- man oceans. Of the three, Morven, as its Gaelic name indicates, is by much the highest, and is supposed to be more than a mile above the level of the sea, whence it is generally the first land in this quarter seen by mariners, and, as a landmark, is of great use in stormy weather. It is worthy of notice that, as indicating wet or dry weather, it possesses the confidence of the whole county. During harvest especially, all eyes are directed to- wards it, and it never deceives. Near its summit, there is a deli- cious spring, which is very refreshing to the traveller exhausted in gaining its top. The straths are numerous and very beautiful, par- ticularly those along the rivers of Langwell, Berriedale, and Dun- beath. Scenery more highly romantic and picturesque than that on the two former, is not to be met with in the north of Scotland. They are admired by every traveller. Their steep banks were once densely and extensively wooded, and still there is as much remaining as to contribute to their beauty, if not to their value. The whole line of coast is compof^d of bold and perpendicular rocks, rising from 100 to 300 feet above the sea; forming a barrier to the tremendous surge which frequently rolls in from the ocean. It is also much indented, in consequence of the numerous streams that flow from the interior, and at their junc- tion with the sea form inlets more or less spacious. These afibrd a very convenient shelter for the boats engaged in the herring-fish- I.ATFILRON. 85 ing. The caves are numerous, and some of t^em from 50 to 60 fathoms long. Very fine massive specimens of crystallized lime have been taken from the tops and sides of them, and are still preserved. But they are chiefly celebrated for the great numbers of seals that frequent them at all seasons, which renders them not merely convenient but often lucmtive. The caves are usually vi« sited in November, and entered by means o( a boat during the night when the seals are at rest. The boat is well manned with experienced hands, having each a large piece of wood, and a torch or candle. They require to use great caution in approaching the cave, as the seals are always on the alert, and upon hearing the least noise rush forward with astonishing rapidity towards the sea, in which they immediately disappear, putting the water into great agi-^ tation. When the boat is perceived before taking the ground, most of them escape in this way. As soon as the boat has ground- ed, the men leap out with great agility, and, intercepting the seals in their progress downwards, strike them on the head, when they instantly fall. On any other part the blow has no effect. In this manner, several scores have been captured at a time ; but of late from twenty to thirty is considered a good taking. The principal headlands are the Ord, Berriedale-head, and Clyth-ness. Climate. — The climate, generally speaking, is dry, and, for or* dinary constitutions, extremely healthy ; to which the elevation of the land and the consequent rarity of the atmosphere much con- tribute. These circumstances, however, seem to favour heavy gales of wind, which are frequently experienced, particularly from the west and north-we$t. The temperature of the atmosphere may be about 56° Fahrenheit. Considering the extraordinary density of the population, diseas* es are by no means frequent. Fever and rheumatism are certain- ly most prevalent It has been observed that the former is very commonly carried by infection from the lower parts of the county, and the latter appears to be much occasioned by the want of warm clothing suited to the laborious habits of the people. For'- merly, all the small tenantry were in possession of a few sheep, and by this means provided themselves with suitable clothing; but of late, owing to the great increase of population, and the conse- quent demand for land, their farms have been so reduced in ex- tent by division and subdivision from year to year, that comparative- 86 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. ly few sheep can be kept by them, which, both in respect tofoodantL clothing, is most disadvantagepus. Instances of longevity are very frequent, — several persons now living are nearly 100 years of age, and one man has completed his 105th year, and is stiil in possession of all his faculties. As formerly stated, the Moray Frith forms the boundary of this parish on the south-east It varies in breadth from 50 to 60 miles, possesses fine fishing-ground ; but in stormy weather the sea is easily raised into what sailors call a short tumb* ft .. ling swell, which frequently proves fatal to fishing boats. The tides are of considerable rapidity, and may be about two hocir» and three-quarters before Leith. Perennial springs abound throughout the parish, and the temperature of such as have been tried was found, some of the more copious at 54% and the less so at 56^ and 58°. Many of them are much impregnated with iron. There are three rivers in the parish, viz. Dunbeath, Berriedale and Langwell, which abound with trout and salmon. They have their source from twelve to sixteen miles from the sea, but are very small in summer, though much swollen in winter, and very rapid. The only lakes are Rangay and Stempster, in both of which there js plen- ty of trout and eels. On the east side of the former, there are the remains of a small fortification, which was evidently surrounded by the water of the lake by means of a ditch ; and contiguous to the latter are) the ruins of a Druidical temple and the Arch-Druid's house. Geology. — The geological features of this parish are totally dif- ferent from those of the rest of the county, and merit more notice than the prescribed limits of this Account admit of. The greater part of Caithness is what is called a secondary formation, consist- ing chiefly of clay flagstone, having more or less calcareous matter with a few instances of the red sandstone, elevated into lofty head- lands at Dunnet and Duncansbay. On approaching the northern boundary of the parish, betwixt Ulbster and Bruan, a great change is observable in the physical character of the country. Beyond this point, the southern portion of the county, embracing this parish, along the eastern coast is hilly and much diversified. A numbe? * of streams intersect it, swelling in the winter to a great size. The elevated portion of this district rises from the knotty promontory of Clyth-ness, and forms several irregular terraces, occupying the north part of the parish. The lowest of these dip 25** to 30^ in- land, while the higher and more rotund incline only 8° or 10%" LATHERON. 87 Near the shore, blue calcareous flagstone occurs, and is overlaid by a series of sandstone beds of considerable thickness. Bena- cheilt is the highest part of this region, and round it the strata are arranged in a fan-shaped form, so that while the beds on the coast, at Nottingham and Latheron, dip westerly, at Braehungay on the south side of this hill, they veer round to the N.E. against the hill; and still farther inland, at Achavanich, the dip is E.S.E. Between Latheron and Dunbeath, the beds rise into micaceous sandstones alternating with blue calcareous flagstone. At the lat- ter place they consist of bluish and gray close-grained sandstone, with occasional alternating of greenish and bluish flagstones, and are prolonged into hills in the interior, distinctly resting upon the old red conglomerate, or puddingstone of Braemore, connected with the chain of mountains forming the southern boundary of the county. Along the coast, the same slaty beds continue to prevail in high clifis to the south of Berriedale. At Borgue, there is an isolated mass of the old conglomerate, probably owing its existence to the degradation of the nearest point of the Scarabins, a primary mass of quartz rock. This range of high bare rock is clasped on each side by the conglomerate series, composing nearly the whole of the surrounding hills, which, being prolonged between the Scarabins and the granite of the Ord, terminate in the cliff be- tween Berriedale and Ausdale. The coast thence to the Ord is occupied by red micaceous flagstone, succeeded by some beds of red sandstone rising into a perpendicular cliff about 800 feet high at Trefad. Masses of the conglomerate also present themselves occasionally, particularly in the cliff at Badbea. Farther south, the cliff again changes its character, and is occupied by great crumbhng masses of red marl and sandstone, containing a few bands of bluish flagstone. These gradually pass into a strong red sandstone, which is separated from the granite mass of the Ord by a high cliff of conglomerate. The junction is nearly marked by a cascade of the Ausdale rivulet, which tumbles into the sea from the height of 100 feet over these conglomerate rocks. The necessarily brief and imperfect outline here given affords no adequate idea of the interesting geological character of this district To convey a more complete view of it would be in* admissible here. It may be proper, however, to state that the old conglomerate, composing the southern hills of this parish, and stretching thence along the borders to the west side of the 88 CA1THNESS*SH1RE. county, is considered as forming the lowest bed of the secondary formation, being succeeded by beds of siliceous and calcareo-sili- ceous flagstone and slate-clay, which occupies the great body of the county from sea to sea, sinking at length under the highest or uppermost of the secondary series, the new red sandstone of Dun- net and Duncansbay Heads. Soil — The soil varies considerably in nature and quality in dif- ferent parts of the parish. On the estates of Langwell and Dun- beath in the west end, it is generally of a sharp gravelly description, and very dry. Latheronwheel and Liatheron, being next in order, are less gravelly, but sufficiently sharp and mellow. Torse, Swiney, and Lybster rather wet and cold, having for the substratum a strong tenacious clay, which renders it later in bringing the crops to ma^ turity ; whilst the estate of Clyth in the eastern extremity very much partakes of the dry, sharp loam of the centre and western districts. Upon the whole, the soil may be pronounced shallow, but easily wrought, and, with good management, capable of pro- ducing all kinds of grain, together with clover, turnips and pota- toes. In many parts it abounds with detached rocks and large stones, which form a serious obstacle to the plough ; and though much has been done towards the removing of them out of the cuU tivated ground, yet still much remains to be done, and this circum- stance presents a great discouragement in the way of improvement ; yet it is, nevertheless, progressing rapidly. Zoology. — Before the introduction of sheep-farming, deer were to be found in considerable numbers on the estates of Langwell, Braemore, and Dunbeath, but for many years back they are rarely to be met with ; but grpuse, ptarmigan, and blackcock are in great abundance. The salmon on the rivers are of uncommonly 6ne quality. The rivers of Berriedale and Langwell unite when about 200 yards from the sea, and it is remarkable that the native fish of one river are rarely to be found in the other. At the spawning season, the salmon of both rivers seem to bear one another com- pany till they come to the point of separation, when, from a cu- rious peculiarity of natural instinct, each selects its native stream. There are about twenty difiFerent species of fish caught on the coast. Those of greatest importance in an economical point of view are, herrings, cod, haddocks, skate, and flounders. IL — Civil History. .From the want of authentic records as to the early history of LATHERON. 89 this parish, very little can be noticed under this head. Judginjify however, from the number and variety of the remains of those places of strength which it contains, together with the other war- like relics of barbarous and feudal times with which it is every- where bestudded, there can be no doubt that it formed the scene of many a well fought field. But, as usually happens in such cases, tradition has been very fertile in supplying th6 lack of more correct information. One tradition out of many may be noticed as highly probable. It refers to the last invasion of this county by the Danes. On that occasion they landed near the town of Thurso, under the command of the young Prince of Denmark, and the natives, not being in sufficient strength to oppose them, retreated across the county, followed by the invaders, till they came to the hill of Ben-a-gheil, in this parish, distant twenty miles from Thurso* By this time, the ranks of the natives having been greatly increased in number, and being now in view of the coast where their retreat must be stopped, deriving courage also from the very favourable^ position they occupied on this hill, — they resolved to try the fyte of a pitched battle. Having taken their ground, the enemy soon came up and attempted to dislodge them, when they poured down in one dense mass, broke the enemy's ranks, killed their leader, and routed their whole force. A huge stone, placed perpendicular in the ground, resembling a pillar, marks the place where the Prince fell ; and from this occurrence the hill itself seems to de- rive its Gaelic name, Ben-a-gheil, signifying the hill where they yielded, or were overcome. Eminent Men, — One of the most eminent men known to have been connected with this parish, was the late Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster, Bart, author of the former Statistical Account of Scotland, the Code of Agriculture, &c. &c. ; a man who was an ornament to the age in which he lived, and of whom any parish or county might deservedly boast Sir John was principal pro- prietor in this parish, and the estate of Langwell, then in his pos- session, was his favourite resort during the periods of his re- sidence in the county. Here he commenced some of his earliest and most extensive improvements in the several departments of plantation, agriculture, and sheep-farming, in the first and last of which he completely succeeded ; and much of the beauty and utility of this valuable property is owing to his spirited and perse- vering exertions, seconded, as they were, by the skill and good 90 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. taste of his successor, the late James Horae, Esq. of LangwelL Od Sir John Sinclair's merits as a man of varied talent, an able and extensive author, an accomplished scholar, or skilful states man, it is not intended here to enlarge^ as the subject more pro- perly belongs to his native parish of Thurso. He was possessed of a singularly intelligent, active, andl benevolent mind, insomuch that no parish or district of country could have enjoyed his pre- sence for any length of time ¥dthout being benefited thereby. Indeed, such was the quickness of his perception, and the warmth of his philanthropy, that even in his passing visits to quarters where' he had no personal interest, he seldom failed to suggest some measures for the improvement of the soil, and especially of its inhabitants, and was always ready, from his own resources^ to assist in carrying them into execution. Of this a very striking instance occurred in the highlands of Perthshire, and was com- municated to the writer when visiting the person with whom the transaction was entered into. On one occasion Sir John hap* pened to be travelling along Loch Tay side, and observing the country very densely peopled with small tenantry, and that the lofty range of mountains, green to the very summits, with which this beautiful lake is surrounded, were chiefly pastured by sheep, inquired how the people, in so remote a quarter, disposed of their wool ; and being informed that each family employed one, two, or three spinning wheels, according to the number of females it contained, it readily occurred to him that a spinning mill might prove a great acquisition in the district, and find abundant em- ployment. He accordingly sought out the ablest person for such an undertaking, and was directed to a Mr M'Naughton in the vicinity of Kenmore. To him he immediately repaired, and, after enumerating the advantages likely to arise to the whole neighbour*, hood from such a concern, together with the great probability of its success, and the prospect of the emoluments which it held out, strongly urged him to undertake it. This Mr M*Naughton at first declined, assigning as a reason, that neither he nor any other individual in the place could afford to run the risk of a failure. « Well," said Sir John, "but will you conduct it, provided I take the risk upon myself?" To this Mr M'Naughton, after some hesita- tion, assented. The mill was soon procured and commenced ope- rations, and so completely were Sir John's predictions realized, tliat in a few years thereafter, Mr M*Naughton erected other two 3 LATHERON. 9^1 at bis own expense in other parts of the country ; a circumstance no less gratifying to the originator, than advantageous to the sur* rounding community. Ldxnd'owners. — The chief land-owners of the parish are, Sir G^rge Sinclair of Ulbster, Bart.; William Sinclair, Esq. of Freswick ; John Sutherland, Esq. of Forse ; Donald Home, Esq. of Langwell ; Colonel Gordon of Swiney ; Lord Duffus ; Sir Ralph A. Anstruther, Bart. ; Temple Frederick Sinclair, Esq. of Lybster ; and Donald Munro, Esq. of Latheron. Parochial Registers, — The earliest date of the parochial records now extant is 1755. They have been pretty regularly kept tHl 1770. There is then a chasm of nearly thirteen years to 1788^ after which they have, with few exceptions, been correctly kept ; especially since 1813^ the entries are scrupulously correct Antiquities. — From the great number of castles in this parish, it would appear as if the chief strength of the county were concentrat- ed in it There are no fewer than eight of them along the sea-coast, and for the most part built on the very brink of high and perpendicu- lar rocks overhanging the sea, and inaccessible from that quarter. They were also so constructed as to admit of separation from the land at pleasure, the chief connection being by means of a draw- bridge. The greater number of them are now in ruins, but, from the height, strength, and thickness of the walls of those that re- main, it may easily be conceived what a formidable obstacle they presented to an invading enemy in those times, standing as they do in such close succession. Beginning at the south, their names are Berriedale, Achastle, Dunbeath, (still inhabited,) Knockinnan, Latheron, Forse, Swiney, and Clyth. Several of them are still celebrated for the warlike deeds of their brave, though ferocious original possessors, and it is highly instructive to contrast the se- curity, peace, and tranquillity of those who now surround them, with the insecurity, rapine, and bloodshed that prevailed in former days. It is hardly necessary to add, that these ruins present not the slightest traces either of the graces of ornament, or the em- bellishments of art, which so tastefully adorn more modern archi« tecture. Modem Buildings. — The only buildings of recent erection de- serving of notice are the churches of Berriedale and Lybster. The former is a Government church, of very neat construction, though small in size. It was built in 1826, and contains about 300 sitters* 92 CAITHNESS'SHIKE. There is a very comfortable manse close by it. Both are very compact, and a great ornament to the district in which they are placed. The latter, viz. Lybster, was built by subscription in 1836. It is a substantial, well-6nished^ and most comfortable church. It contains 805 sittings, and cost L.630. It is placed in the village of Lybster, from which it takes its name, and to the importance of which it contributes not less by its utility than its acknowledged ornament IIL — POPOLATION. From the want of correct records, it is impossible to ascertain the ancient state of the population with accuracy. Tliere can be no doubt, however, that it has been progressing during the last century at a very rapid rate. It is stated in the former Statistical Account, that the population had nearly doubled during the seventy years preceding 1794, when it amounted to 4006 ; and such has been the extraordinary rapidity of the increase during the forty years that have since elapsed, that it is now fblly double that amount. Where this extraordinary increase of country po- pulation is to terminate, and by what means a suitable provision is to be made for their comfortable support, it is difficult to imagine. At present there are no indications of a decrease, unless sheep- farming, which commenced some time ago, should become more general. The chief cause of the recent astonishing increase in the population is unquestionably the great and growing extent to which the herring-fishing has been prosecuted along the whole coast, and the extraordinary success with which it has generally been attended. Upon its permanency or failure, therefore, main* ly depends the future continued increase, or rapid decrease of the population. The present number of the population residing in villages is - 535 In the rest of the parish, - - - . 7445 The yearly average of births for the last seven years, is - - 197 No record is kept of deaths. The yearly average of marriages, ... • 53 The average number (in 1831) of persons under 15 years of age, is -> 2699 betwixt 15 and 90, - 1730 30 and 50, - 1501 50 and 70, - 791 upwards of 70, . . 169 The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards. 9 Males unmarried, upwards of 50 years of age, - - - 57 Females, do. • 45 do. - • • - 348 Numberof families in 1831, ... . 1406 Average number of children for each family in the parish, - -2 LATHE HON. 93 Number of famtlies employed in agriculture in 1881, . 1068 trade, manufacture, or handicraft, 161 Number of fatuous persons, 20 ; bliud, 3. Language^ Habits^ ^c. — The Gaelic language is generally Kpoken by the lower class of people throughout the greater part of the parish, but it has certainly lost ground during the last forty years, and, in proportion as the improved system of education ad- vances, it will no doubt continue to decline still more. In proof of this, the presbytery of Caithness have lately come to the deci- sion to discontinue the preaching of the Gaelic language in the eastern district of the parish occupied by the mission of Bruan, where a missionary was last year appointed, who has no Gaelic Formerly the missionary always preached in both languages, but, in all probability, this system is not likely to be again resorted to. It is a singular circumstance* that, for a long period, the burn of East Clyth seems to have formed the boundary between the Gae* lie and English languages. On the east side of it,' scarcely a word of Gaelic was either spoken or understood, and on the west side the English shared the same fate ; and this was the more wonderful, as both sides were rather densely peopled. Now, however, the English has not only made encroachments upon the Gaelic terri<* tory, but has extended itself over the whole neighbouring dis* trict ; and, indeed, were it not that its progress was consider- ably impeded by the importation of several colonies of High- landers from the heights of Kildonan and other- parts of Suther- landshire about twenty years ago, when the sheep system com- menced there, its triumphs, ere now, would have been still more extensive. ,A very decided improvement has, for many years back, been ob- servable both in the external appearance and interna} comforts of the cottages of the peasantry. The old hovels are iast disappear* ing, and neat substantial houses, having vents and chimney tops in one or both ends, are occupying their places. With these im- provements in the accommodations and comforts of the people, there has, as might naturally be expected, been a somewhat pro- portional advance in their habits of cleanliness and manner of dress, in both of which many of them display considerable taste and neatness. Indeed, there is reason to fear that the youth of both sexes are, in the article of dress, rather in danger of exceed- ing their means. The ordinary food consists of oat and bear 94 CAITHNESS-SHIttE. meal, potatoes, and fish of various kinds, of which there is usually an abundant supply. In the latter article, few parishes are pos- sessed of equal advantages, for, in addition to the opportunities of obtaining white fish of excellent quality when the weather is mo- derate, each family lays in a regular stock of from one to three barrels of cured herrings, according to the number of persons of which it consists. This, vnth potatoes, milk, and a moderate quantity of bread, together with a little animal food occasionally, forms a wholesome and nourishing diet at all seasons. Cionsidering the many disadvantages in respect to religious and moral training under which this parish has long laboured, arising from its immense extent, and the density of its population, crowd- ed together, in many quarters, in large masses, — the extraordi- nary lack of respectable and exemplary iamilies located among them, so necessary to give a tone to the morals of the lower classes,— -the very unfavourable nature of their ordinary avocations towards the fostering and maturing of religious habits, — together with the scarcity of competent instructors to maintain a strict and continuous pastoral superintendence among them, — considering these acknowledged disadvantages, it is wonderful and pleasing to perceive the hold which religious principle and moral responsibility possess over the people generally ; whilst in very many particular cases, the acuteness and intelligence discoverable on religious sub- jects, combined, iis frequently happens, with fervent and unobtru- sive piety, are not less striking and refreshing to contemplate, than diffusive and beneficial in their consequences. That instances of ignorance and irreligion, attended by their natural offspring, vice and immorality, are to be met with, cannot be denied ; but, in a community so circumstanced, the great wonder is, that they do not prevail to a much greater extent. This is to be attributed, under Providence, to the wholesome checks and remedies which have more recently been applied, by extending, as far as possible, the improved system of education, and providing additional facili- ties of religious instruction and pastoral superintendence over the more remote and destitute districts ; a system which, even in its infancy, is already producing a marked improvement on the ha- bits of the people generally. Upon the whole, the peasantry may be said to possess a tole- rable degree of knowledge for their station in life. With few ex- ceptions, they are well acquainted with the catechisms and leading LATHERON. 96 doctrines of our church, which maintain a powerful influence over them in all the relations of life. In particular, their minds are deeply imbued with suitable impressions of an overruling Provi- dence governing all things according to the Divine will ; a prin- ciple which, whilst it moderates their joy in prosperity, power- fully supports them under adversity. Of this there were innume- rable instances of a very pleasing nature during the three past years, when, as is well known, the crops were almost a total fail- ure all over the Highlands. The patient resignation and deep submission with which this heavy calamity was borne, could not fail to excite the admiration of every attentive observer. Instead of riot, robbery, and bloodshed, which in many other quarters fol- low in the train of less formidable privations, here the public peace was never disturbed ; but, on the contrary, life, and even property in general, were alike secure as in more favourable circumstances. To behold 7000 people suffering under the most distressing des- titution for three successive years, many families without a hand- ful of meal in their houses for weeks together, others satisfled with a little water-gruel once a-day, and still nothing but quiet- ness and submission prevailing, what a triumph for that sound Scriptural education to which they are early habituated, and con- sequent religious principle of which it seldom fails to be produc- tive ! A high veneration for the being, attributes, and worship of the Deity is everywhere observable. The sanctity of the Sab- bath is universally upheld. Scarcely a movement is to be seen during that sacred day excepting to or from the places of public worship, which are remarkably well attended. The important duty of family worship, so necessary for the formation and exhibition of the Christian character, is also very generally observed. But whilst it is truly pleasing to dwell upon the ascendency which these principles and habits possess among the great body of the peasantry, yet a regard to truth requires the admission, however painful, that instances do occur, from time to time, of a character directly opposite. Of these one of the greatest irregu- larities is that of drinking ardent spirits, to which not a few are addicted, especially during the winter season. This degrading practice was formerly occasioned by the extent to which the smug- gling of whisky was carried on ; but the system of heavy fines or im- prisonment, introduced many years ago in all cases of detection. SG CAITHNESS-SHIRE. was the meaus of checking it in a great degree. But this system was soon relaxed on account of the expenses attending the im- prisonment of delinquents. Then followed a more vigilant and active surveillance on the part of the excise, particularly the inde- fatigable exertions of one active officer, a Mr M*Mahon, whose very name spread terror all over the county, from the Ord of Caithness to John O* Groats, by the havoc he made upon this ne- farious and demoralizing trade. He was neither to be bribed nor deceived, and scarce a single case escaped his detection in the whole range of the county. This has given the 6nishing blow to smuggling in this quarter, and for several years not a single case has occurred here. The good effects of this change are already apparent in the districts where the practice most prevailed ; but it is only when the present generation shall have passed away, that the full advantage will be appreciated. Another practice attend- ed with very pernicious effects is that frequently adopted by fish- curers, of giving from 6ve to seven gallons of whisky to each boat's crew during the herring-fishing season, which, on an average, will be at the rate of one bottle to each crew of four mea every fishing night ; and although some have the prudence to reserve a consi- derable part of it, yet others consume their whole allowance. By this means young men are led into drinking habits very early. It is a great evil, and loudly calls for a remedy. Poaching in the moors and rivers can hardly be said to exist, owing to the strict regulations adopted by the proprietors. In- deed such is their authority over the tenantry, that it is complete- ly in their power to suppress smuggling, thieving, and even habits of excessive drinking at any time, were they to put that authority in vigorous execution, and to act in concert. But so far is this from being always the case, as it certainly ought to be, that it is no uncommon occurrence to see individuals notorious for one or other of the above practices, when removed from one property, received on that immediately adjoining it; by which, means they sometimes become more injurious to that from which they have been removed, (by theft for instance,) than if they had been per- mitted to remain unmolested. Besides, how cruel is it towards those among whom such characters are placed ! Were certifi- cates of moral character strictly insisted upon from every new te- nant, many irregularities would be greatly checked — a precaution urgently called for. 4 LATHERON. 97 IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — Although the lands in this parish are well adapted for agriculture, and although it contains several farms in the very highest state of cultivation, yet, as the great body of its inhabitants are engaged in the herring-fishing, and make the cultivation of the soil little more than a secondary concern, it is, perhaps, less agricultural than many other parishes in the county, that are greatly inferior in extent, population, and internal resources. Its pastoral qualities are peculiarly valuable, and likely to be put in still more extensive requisition. It contains fully 140,000 imperial acres, of which about 9000 are arable, and about an equal quantity capable of being made so, though at a considerable expense, from the great number of rocks and isolated large stones near the surface. There are probably not more than 250 acres of undivided common in the whole parish, and about 720 acres of wood of all descriptions ; by far the greater part of which consists of natural brushwood, chiefly along the ro- mantic banks of the rivers Berriedale, Langwell, and Dunbeath. At the former, however, there is a considerable extent of planted wood of all kinds, and well attended to in respect to pruning, &c. ; and at the latter, there is a tasteful plantation just laid out, which will in a few years appear highly ornamental as well as useful. At Braemore and Latheronwheel also a good deal has been done, and with considerable success ; as also at Lybster, where neither pains nor expense have been spared for many years back. But here the roots have to contend with a less favourable soil, whilst the trees themselves are much exposed from the want of natural shelter, the ground being flat, and the soil damp and tenacious, — two obstacles formidable in an ungenial climate ; yet there is a striking evidence of what can be done by pains and perseverance. Bent. — The average rent of arable land is certainly very high, considering the indiflerent crops raised by the small tenantry ge- nerally. It is about L.1, 5s. per acre, — more than can be realized by the occupiers generally, — but then the fishing is expected to make up the deficiency. The rate of grazing may be about L. 2, 10s. for a cow, and 9s. for a sheep on arable ground, and 15s. for a cow, and 3s. for a sheep on hill pasture. JVaffes. — Day-labourers, employed in ditching, draining, or roads, usually receive at the rate of 2d. per hour, or 9s. per week. Masons and carpenters from 2s. to 3s. per day ; men and women employed for harvest work, the former L.1, 10s. and the latter L.I, CAITHNESS. G 98 CAlTllNESS-SniRE. with an allowance of meal and potatoes sufficient to support them until the crops are secured. Farm-servants obtain from L. 6 to L.8 a-year, according to their quali6cations, and 6 bolls of meal, together with potatoes and a little milk. Women for household, work are from L. 3 to L. 4 with their victuals, &c. in the family. Breeds of Live-Stock. — Much attention is now being paid to the improvement of the breeds of sheep and cattle. Cheviot sheep of the finest description are reared on the farms of Langwell and Dunbeath, and frequently obtain prizes at the shows at Inverness. On several corn farms, crosses between the Leicester and Cheviot breeds are be- coming common. The same system is pursued in respect to cattle, and the crosses most in repute are between the Teeswater and good Highlanders. For this description there is a ready demand at good prices, and, in all probability, the great attention now paid to the rearing of stock is only in its infancy. The great facilities now afforded for the conveyance of stock by steam to the Edin- burgh and London markets with such regularity and rapidity, is fast drawing forth the resources of this county generally, and every parish in particular. Husbandry. — Although the greater portion of the land is occu- pied by small tenantry, with whom the cultivation of the soil forms but a secondary concern, yet there are several extensive and well- managed farms in the parish, on which crops of the best descrip- tion are raised. The six- year shift is that in most general use, viz. turnip, barley or bear, two crops grass, one cut and the other pastured, and two crops oats, one of potato or Hopetoun, and the other of Angus or dun oats. Wheat is sometimes raised of good quality ; but in the general run of seasons it has not been found a profitable crop, owing chiefly to the want of sufficient warm wea- ther to bring it to maturity. Pease and beans are also tried, and sometimes succeed ; but they may be considered a very precarious crop, owing to the wet weather often experienced during harvest, when it is extremely difficult to secure them in a good state. Draining has of late been practised to a very great extent on the principal farms, and with evident advantage. For example, one small field of about four acres has been drained this year at an expense of about L.20. Even furrow draining has been tried on a small scale, and in all probability will become more general. Lime has been found most serviceable on dry lands, and has been a good deal in use ; but the depressed state of farm produce for many years back has operated as a great discouragement to the LATHEUON. 99 use of this expensive but valuable manure. Considerable tracts of waste ground have been reclaimed by almost all the proprietors during tlie last twenty years ; chiefly, however, with the view of extending the farms under their o^n management. Among these improvements, none have been so perfectly executed as those on the beautiful estate of Lftngwell, by the late proprietor, James Home, Esq. A considerable portion was trenched at a great expense where the soil was shallow, and other parts of moor- ground, hav- ing from one to two feet of moss on the surface, were 6rst plough- ed, then burnt, and laid down with a large allowance of lime, carted a distance of ten miles. This was done twelve or fourteen years ago, and has never yet been turned up, yet it continues to retain a rich and close sward of pasture grass, without discovering any symptoms of relapsing into its original heath, as so general- ly happens when the work is done in a less perfect style. On the estates of Dunbeath, Latheronwheel, Forse, Lybster, and Clyth, much has also been done, though in a less expensive manner. The system pursued by the smaller tenantry has in several respects been improved of late. Instead of four small horses and a driver to every plough, two horses without a driver are now universal- ly used. And, instead of the clumsy awkward plough formerly in use, the neat iron plough is becoming very general. The land ]f also better cleaned, although the rotation of oats and bear al- ternately is very little changed ; only a greater breadth of potatoes is planted, and good white and dun oats have supplanted the old black and gray inferior qualities. In a few cases also small patches of grass are sown out after potatoes. This practice would speedi- ly become general, were it not for the want of enclosures to pre- serve the grass from being injured during winter, and that there is no winter herding. Leases. — Leases of fourteen or nineteen years are granted on the larger farms, but the small tenantry generally hold their farms only from year to year — a system alike prejudicial to their com- forts, and the interests of the proprietor. Short leases are, how- ever, becoming more common, and will no doubt speedily become universal. The condition of some of the farm- buildings is excellent, others of them again are exceedingly bad. But, as in all other things con- nected with rural economy, there has been a progressive improve- ment of late. The same observations are applicable to the enclosures. These chiefly consist of stone fences, together with whin and thorn 100 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. hedges. Most of the stone fences are old and decayed, and do not suit theimproved system of keeping a suitable portion of each farm under sheep. Should the present system be persevered in, as is most probable, they will require to be renewed. Indeed, this is to commence immediately on the farm of Clyth, the property of Sir George Sinclair, where a new farm-steading and proper en- closures are forthwith to be erected on a new lease of that excel- lent farm. All the new houses are slated, and in other respects very commodious. Improvements. — The principal improvements which have taken place within the last thirty years, in as far as agriculture is con- cerned, may be briefly enumerated as follows : fully 2000 acres of waste ground reclaimed ; better accommodations in farm-buildings; a vast extent of enclosures executed ; agriculture much more sys- tematically and advantageously pursued ; more attention given to the culture and clearing of the land ; draining practised much more extensively, and executed in a more skilful style; better breeds of horses, cows, and sheep ; superior facilities both for*expedition and security in conveying them to the southern markets ; a much wider breadth of turnips sown and heavier crops raised, and con- sequently a much larger quantity of stock reared and fed, and fit- ted in a much shorter time for the butcher. After shipping the stock at Wick in the morning, it is possible for thom to be shown in the Edinburgh market next afternoon ; thus accomplishing in the astonishingly short period of thirty hours what used to occupy nearly as many days, to the much greater damage of the stock. Great as these improvements are, nothing but the want of ca- pital prevents their proceeding at a much more rapid rate; and were additional encouragement to be given by proprietors, by grant- ing leases to the small tenantry on reasonable terms, a great deal more might be done, even upon the existing resources of the peo- ple. One of the greatest obstacles with which the spirit of im- provement has now to contend, is the non-residence of almost all the proprietors ; a circumstance which did not exist, to the same extent, until very recently ; and hence the same interest can hard- ly be expected to be taken, either in promoting the comforts of the inhabitants, or in reclaiming or ornamenting the lands. But it is hoped that this inconvenience may only be of short duration. Fisheries. — There are four descriptions of fisheries prosecuted in this parish, viz. the herring, cod, salmon, and lobster. Of these tbo herring-fishery is the most considerable, forming as it does. LATHERON. ' 101 the principal source whence the revenue of the parish is derived. This fishing commences about the middle of July, when the her- ring usually make ^their appearance in small shoals on the coast, and continues till the middle of September. Great numbers of young men come from Assynt in Sutherlandshire, and Lochbroom and Lewis in Ross-shire, to engage as hired hands. They are employed by the owners of the boats to make up the boats' crew along with themselves, and receive from L. 3 to L. 4 each, for six weeks, besides their victuals. Each boat carries four men, and is furnished with from twenty to thirty-eight nets, according to the size of the boat. A good boat costs L. 50, and her drift of nets L. 76 ; a sum too large for one individual, and consequently there are generally two and sometimes more who share in the same boat They usually last in a seaworthy state about twelve years, and the nets six years. No employment can be prosecuted with great- er spirit and assiduity ; and few scenes are more enlivening, both on land and water, than it occasions, especially when any measure of success attends the labours of the fishermen. The boats usu- ally leave the shore from five o'clock to seven o'clock in the after- noon, according to the direction of the wind and the distance at which the fish are supposed to be found, and shoot their nets about dusk. In this state they remain, with the boat attached to each drift by means of a head rope, and slowly carried east or west by the tide, until about three o'clock the next morning. Then all hands are em- ployed in hauling in the nets and fish at the boat's stern, where they remain together, dispersed all over the boat, till it comes to shore, when they commence the operation of disengaging the fish from the meshes of the net, by shaking the nets. This ope- ration is frequently performed at the time of hauling the nets, should time and the weather permit. The herring being thus separated from the nets, are immediately landed and deposit- ed in the curing box, where a number of women are engaged in gutting and packing them in barrels with salt. Having deli- vered their fish, they bundle up their nets, carry them on shore, and spread them out carefully one over the other. Here they re- main to dry, until taken up again in the afternoon to be used as formerly. After securing their boats, they return to their homes, take some refreshment, and a few hours repose, as their time per- mits, and proceed to take up their nets, and put to sea again for the next night's fishing. In this manner they proceed for five suc- cessive nights, every week. Sometimes, however, when the quaa- 102 CAlTUNESS-SillRE. tity offish to be delivered is large, they do not get to bed for days together. This makes it a very fatiguing and even oppressive em- ployment But the prospect of success is so very enticing, that it is submitted to with wonderful cheerfulness. The boats used in this pari^ may contain from SO to &0 crans or barrels (for both are nearly alike,) of herrings, and it is diffi- cult to say which of the sights is most pleasingly interesting to a stranger, that of beholding on a fine evening the whole coast, as far as the eye can reach, covered with human beings in their little barks, as they issue forth from every creek, and disperse in different directions, full of life ; or that of attending at one of the stations in the morning, and witnessing the return of 40, 60, or 100 boats, all crowding into one credc, most of them, perhaps, laden with fish jto the gunwale, and then the scene of bustle and animation that succeeds and continues till night ! And what ought not to be omitted as being still more delightful to a serious* ly contemplative Qiind, it is not unusual, where there are boats having individuals of acknowledged piety, for the crew to en- gage in worship after shooting their nets. On these occasions a portion of a psalm is sung, followed with prayer, and the effect is represented as truly solemn and heart-stirring, as the melodious strains of the Gaelic music, carried along the surface of the waters, (several being similarly engaged,) spread throughout the whole fleet. But not uufrequently the scene is sadly reversed, for in the midst of the joys of life, we often are in death. A storm suddenly arises during the night. The boats are all riding quietly at their nets and unprepared to meet it. Some endeavour to haul their nets, others cut from them, and make for the place of great- est shelter, whilst others, afraid to put up sail and encounter it, abide by their nets in the hope of the storm's abating. In propor- tion to the danger at sea, are the confusion and anxiety on land. The shores are instantly crowded by inquiring relatives, hurrying from place to place in search of husbands, brothers, or sons. Astonishing instances of preservation of^en occur ; but no season passes without serious losses to individuals, either of boats, or nets, and sometimes of lives. The risks are very great, and the em- ployment, even when successful, most trying to the constitution* The following presents a pretty correct state of the fishing of 1688 at the different stations in the parish. The fishing stations with the boats attached to each are, Dunbeatb, 76 ; Latheron- LATHE RON. 103 wheel, 35; Fbrse, 32; Swiney, 10; Lybster, 101; Clytli, 53; and East Clyth, 18: in all 325 boats. Connected with these there are 1321 fishermen, 106 coopers, 937 women as packers^ and 178 labourers, in all 2540 persons, — besides about 50 fish cur- ers, miiny of whom take an active part in the business. The number of barrels cured at all these stations in 1838^ was 39,093, exclusive of the fish cured by the fishermen and others at their own houses, which may be estimated at about 2800 barrels,— ^be- sides quantities of green fish purchased at all the stations by strangers from all parts of the county in exchange for cash) milk^ butter, cheese, &c. &c. — say 907. The average price per cran of green fish was 9s., and that per barrel when cured, L.I. The barrels are made at the different stations, the hemp spun and the nets wrought in the fishermen's families during the winter and spring months. From all this, it may be conceived what an en- grossing and important concern the herring-fishing has become in this parish. But, notwithstanding these advantages, which are confessedly great in a temporal point of view, yet it is very doubtful whether they are not more than counterbalanced by the pernicious effects upon the morals of the people, which never fail to result from this employment, especially the young of both sexes. No doubt the sound religious education now becoming so general, has a ten- dency to counteract such habits. Indeed, this is already appa- rent, and it is to be hoped, if persevered in, will become still more so. At all events, as matters now stand, it is evident that the failure of the fishing would be attended with the most ruinous con- sequences, so that it becomes no less the duty than the interest of the landed proprietors, whilst encouraging the fishing, by which the value of land has been so greatly enhanced, to afford every practicable facility to the diffusion of knowledge, by means of edu- cation and religious instruction both to young and old. These have ever been found the best safeguards of morality in a country, and are the surest means of rearing and pepetuating an enlighten- ed, intelligent, and industrious peasantry. The cod-fishing is not carried on to any great extent, although there are immense quantities to be found on the coast, particu- larly at the commencement of the herring fishing. At this pe- riod there are a good many caught ; but as soon as the herring ap- pear in such numbers as to induce the fishermen to shoot their nets, then the cod-fishing is deserted, that of the herring being 1 04 gAlTHNESS-SHIRE. much more proBtable. On an average there may be about 10,000 cod cured in a season, for which 6d. each may be ob- tained. Lobsters also are in great abundance, and frequently many of them are taken in boxes; but this trade is little attended to, as the herring trade has been the all-engrossing business for many years back. There are two salmon-fishing stations in the parish, viz. al Berriedale and Dunbeath, the former belonging to Mr Home of Langwell, and the latter to Mr Sinclair of Freswick. At Berrie- dale, salmon and grilse are frequently caught in great abundance, particularly since the herring-fishing was discontinued there. It is rented by the Messrs Hogarth of Aberdeen, and the fishing at Dunbeath by Mr Martin of Dundee, the former at L. 275, and the latter at L.27. This great difference in rent is chiefly occa- sioned by the herring-fishing at the latter place having a ten- dency to annoy the fish, and frighten them from the shore. In other respects, Dunbeath seems the preferable station, as the chan- nel of the river is always open. The fish on both rivers are good ; that of Berriedale particularly so. Very few of them are sold in the parish, on account of the high price demanded ; salmon Is., and grilse 6d. per lb. They are kitted and sent to the London market. Raw Produce. — It is difficult to ascertain with accuracy the precise amount of raw produce raised in the parish ; but an attempt has been made to approach it pretty nearly, though with consider- able difficulty, under the following heads : Grain of all kinds, about 11,882 qrs. at L.l, 5s. per quarter, L. 14,852 Potatoes. 4535 bolls, at IDs. per boll, . . 2,267 10 Turnips, 236 acres, at L.6 per acre, . . 1416 Hay, meadow and cultivated, 40,300 stones, at 6d. per stone, 1,007 10 Land in pasture to graze, 3765 cows, at L.l each, . 3,765 Do. do. 12,000 sheep, at 5s. each, 3^000 Fisheries — herring, 42,800 crans, at 9s. per cran, . 19,260 Do. cod, 10,000, at 6d. each, L.250, ; salmon rented at L.302, 552 Miscellaneous produce not enumerated above, 750 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L.46,870 V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town. — There is no market-town in the parish. The nearest to it is Wick, the county town, which is at the medium distance of twenty miles. Several villages have been projected, but none of them have yet arisen to any consequence except Lyb- ster, which contains many excellent houses, and a population of fully 400 individuals. Several new buildings are now in progress, and many of the inhabitants are very respectable. It was com- LATHEUON. 105 'tnenced by the late proprietor, Lieutenant- General Sinclair, in 1802 ; but it is^only within the last twenty years that the spirit of improyement has been particularly called forth. It is now a ris- ing place, and evidently promises to be of considerable conse- quence at no very distant period, should the herring*fishing con- tinue to floupish, of which there is every prospect. Means of Communication. — There are two post-offices in. the parish, viz. Dunbeath and Lybster, the former of old establish- ment, and the latter more recent. The great north road runs from one extremity of the parish to the other, a distance of twenty-eight miles along the coast, and is of im- mense importance in facilitating the means of communication. The mail-coach from Inverness to Thurso has continued to run since the completion of this road, about twenty-two years ago. The weekly communication by steam from Leith and Aberdeen to Wick and Orkney, has considerably lessened the number of pas- sengers by the coach. The bridges along the Parliamentary and county roads are kept in excellent repair. Harbours. — Considering the vast importance of this coast in a commercial point of view, the great number of vessels that fre- quent it in connection with the fisheries, and the many risks to which life and property are exposed in consequence of its bold, rocky, and exposed character, it is much to be regretted that so little has hitherto been done in order to obtain safe and commo- dious harbours. With the exception of a neat little pier at Clyth, which is occasionally of service in loading vessels in very mode- rate weather, the only attempt that has yet been made in this way is at Lybster, where the proprietor, T. Frederick Sinclair, Esq. has, in a very spirited manner, and at considerable expense, been en- gaged for several years, back in providing a harbour for the en- couragement of the increasing trade and population of that place. This has been effected by running a stone pier of about 300 feet in length along the west bank of a rivulet which runs into the sea at this place, and which formerly was usually choked up by the shifting beach, now confined behind the pier. By this means shelter and accommodation have been effected for upwards of one hundred boats of from ten to fifteen tons burden, besides admit- ting decked vessels of one hundred tons burden. Within the last three years, from sixty to eighty of the latter have loaded and dis- charged cargoes during the summer arid harvest seasons ; and il 106 CAITUNESS-SUIRE* is supposed that it is practicable, by a small additional outlay, to deepen the harbour so as to receive vessels of the necessary ton- nage even at low water. The value of such an improvement on the coast would be incalculable, considering the thousands of in- dividuals engaged in the herring fishing. At present, there is not a single place to run to at low water, when vessels or boats are suddenly overtaken with a heavy storm, as not unfrequently hap- pens, to the great loss of life and property. Dunbeath is also remarkably well calculated for a harbour, and in all probability the time cannot be &r distant, when something on an extensive scale will be attempted there. Nature has done her part admir- ably, and it only requires the hand of art to turn her varied re- sources to good account. Petitions have this year been numerous- ly signed and sent to the Admiralty, praying the appointment of a survey of this coast, in order to select one or more of the fittest stations with the view of erecting harbours for the protection of property, and the lives of the fishermen, now exposed to such im- minent hazard. Should these applications succeed, as it is to be hoped they eventually will, then a new era will arise with rospect to agricultural and commercial pursuits, and it will only requiro the united eflbrfs of enterprising and intelligent men to occupy the field thus opened up, and call forth a spirit of industry hither- to unexampled in this quarter. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated close by the sea, and is seventeen miles from the western extremity of the pa- rish, eleven miles from the eastern, and ten from the northern ex- tremity. It is, however, sufficiently centrical for the population, though it must be obvious, from the great territorial extent, that comparatively few of the inhabitants, were they solely dependent upon it, could derive much benefit on account of the distance to which they are removed. The church seems to have been built about the year 1734. It received a large addition by way of an aisle in lb22, and was, besides, new roofed and new seated. It may contain about 900 sitters, and no seat-rents have been demanded since it received extensive repairs in 1822. It is one of the larg- est and most commodious country churches in the county. The only thing wanted to ite comfort is that of having it ceiled above, which it is hoped may, ere long, be accomplisjied. The manse was built about forty years ago, and is a substantial building, with sufficient accommodation. The glebe consists of 16 acres of arable land. Its extent was a little increased by an LATHEUON. 107 excambioD about fourteen years ago^ and it may be worth about L.20 per auDum. The amount of the stipend is 16 chalders, the one-half meal and the other barley, with L.10 for communion elements. As stated under a former head, there is a Goremment church at Berriedale, in the west end of the parish. It was built in 1826, and accommodates 300 sitters. The district connected with k now forms a quoad sacra parish. In consequence of some of the families having been removed since the church was built, it is now too remote for the more populous districts connected with it, but is, notwithstanding, still very useful ; and were a small church to be erected in the eastern quarter, where the minister could preach every alternate Sabbath, it would be still more so. There is an excellent manse near the church, as also a garden and small glebe. Both the latter were furnished by the late proprietor Mr Home of Langwell, and are continued by his successor Mr Do- nald Home. The stipend, amounting to L. 120, is paid by Govern- ment, and the population is fully 1400. There was also a church built at the village of Lybster in 1836 by subscription, and the district connected with it constituted a parish quoad sacra. It is four miles east of the parish church, has a regular minister settled in it, and a population exceeding 2500 souls. A manse has not yet been built, nor a glebe assigned, but the minister has been pro- vided with a good house in the meantime, and a stipend of L.100 per annum, which is paid from the seat-rents. The church is a neat, commodious, and well-finished building, constructed of the best materials. It contains 805 sitters, and the contract price was L. 830, all of which was cleared off the same year in which the house was finished. Its great utility in that district is universally acknowledged. All the seats are let, the church crowded, and yet the parish church as well attended as formerly. This is the only attempt hitherto made, on the Church extension plan, in any of the counties north of Inverness, and it has succeeded far beyond the most sanguine expectations of its promoters. How long the people, who are almost all composed of the poor and working classes, may be able to afford seat-rents equal to their minister's stipend, must depend upon the future success of the herring- fish- ing. It is hoped, however, that Government will ere long see the expediency and necessity of appropriating a small sum by way of stipend to assist such necessitous places. The proprietors con- nected with the district contributed liberally towards its erection, as also several others both in and out of the parish, together with 108 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. the whole body of the inhabitants of this and the other parishes of the county. It was a favourite measure, in which all felt interest- ed; and it would have delighted the writer to record here the names of all the principal subscribers, could it be admitted, in tes- timony of the grateful sense he entertains of the handsome and cordial manner in which bis appeals in behalf of this important object were responded to by all classes. There is a mission on the establishment of the Society in Scot- land for Propagating Christian Knowledge, at Bruan, in the east- ern extremity of the parish. This station was formerly connected with Berriedale, where the missionary resides. The disjunction took place in 1826, when the Government church was erected at the latter place. A comfortable manse has been erected at Bruan for the missionary, which cost L.2d2, and the expense was defrayed by the people connected with the district. A glebe of four acres of excellent land was handsomely made over to the mission by the late Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster, Bart., whose estates are chiefly benefited thereby. The mission-house stands on the boundary betwixt this parish and Wick, and now accommodates about an equal number from each parish. The church is seated for 600. The population from both parishes is 1800, and the mission is one of the most compact anywhere to be found. The present mis- sionary's stipend has recently been augmented to L.100, only L.25 of which is paid by the Society — the remainder is paid, or at least promised, by the people, and raised from the seat-rents as far as these can be realized. This district also ought to be made a parish quoad sacra^ more especially as it is now completely disjoined from the parish church, by that of Lybster intervening betwixt them. About 350 of the inhabitants of the interior of the parish are connected with the Royal Bounty Mission of Dirlot, in the parish of Halkirk, and attend public worship at the meeting-house of Halsary, where a new and more suitable house is about to be built, and is much needed. There are four catechists in the parish. They are appointed by the kirk-sessions, with the consent and approbation of the peo- ple among whom they labour, and by whom they are paid. There are no Dissenting or Seceding chapels in the parish. An attempt was made a few years ago to introduce dissent into the village of Lybster, where the most strenuous exertions were made and great expense incurred by the United Secession body to establish a con- gregation, but it has signally failed, and is now given up as hope* LATHERON* 103 less. This might have been foreseen from first, as there were no members of that or any other Dissenting denomination there, and the inhabitants generally neither desired nor countenanced such a measure. * With the exception of a few strangers who may settle among them, the people are most devotedly and con- scientiously attached to the Established Church, to which the whole population of 8000 belong, with the exception of about twelve families in the eastern extremity of the parish. One, and sometimes both the heads of these families usuallv attend the Se- cession church at Wick, but the young people belonging to them generally attend at the mission of Bruan on Sabbath. Consider- ing the poverty of many of the inhabitants, excepting those from, the very remote districts where meetings are frequently kept by the catechists or others for the convenience of the people, divine service is remarkably well attended in the several places of wor- ship. On this subject it is recorded, with peculiar satisfac- tion, that, within the last few years, a marked improvement has. taken place in the attendance of the young, and there is every, reason to hope that it will be progressive. This is to be attribut- ed not merely to the public exhortations addressed to parents from the pulpit, but also to the more than ordinary attention of the parochial and other schoolmasters in inculcating this most im- portant duty upon their scholars. The average number of communicants has varied from 130 to 180 during the last seven years. The fewness of their number is to be ascribed to the feelings of reverential awe with which they view this solemn ordinance, and the diflBdence they experience as to their being possessed of the necessary qualifications for engag- ing in it. The yearly collections for the poor may be averaged at L. 52, and those for religious purposes at L. 30. Education. — Hitherto there has been only one parochial school in this extensive parish. There are, however, 14 unendowed and three Society schools ; two supported by the General Assembly, and one by the Society in Scotland for Propagating Christian Know- ledge ; in all 18, besides a few female schools where reading as well as needle-work is taught. The languages nnd the higher branches of mathematics are taught in the parochial and Assembly's schools, • Since the above was written, the United Secession have returned to Lybster, in the hope of better success, as the church there is about becoming vacant, by the translation of its able and popular minister to the Gaelic Church in Edinburgh. 110 CAITHNESS-SHIUE. when required ; but only the elementary branches in those unen- dowed ; and many of the latter, being in remote districts, where the people are very poor, are kept open during only six months of the year, viz. winter and spring. In all the schools the Scriptures are read daily, and the catechisms taught. The salary of the pa* rish teacher is the maximum, and the fees may amount to from L. 20 to L. 30 a year. That of the Society teachers is from L,2Qf to L. 25 each, and their fees from L.8 to L.10. The unendowed teachers are by far the worst paid ; their emoluments may average from L. 3 to L. 4, including fees, though usually they have their victuals in addition. From the smallness of their emoluments it will readily be conceived that the acquiremeuts of these teachers can- not be great. They are selected from the most talented and pro- mising of the scholars in attendance at the parish school, where they are again to be found in attendance how soon their own schools close in the beginning of summer. Here they spend the sum- mer and harvest in revising their former studies, and adding as much as possible to their stock of already acquired knowledge. By these means they return with fresh vigour and increased re- sources to their former stations in winter. Thus they continue to advance in the higher branches of education, until qualiBed for the Society or even parochial schools. But to these schools again, the different districts look for other young men to supply their places, so that the district schools are a kind of nurseries for the more advanced seminaries, which in their turn liberally repay the debt they have incurred. There have been five of these district teachers prosecuting their studies most creditably at the university for several years back. It is proper to notice that there is another parochial school being built at Dunbeath, in connection with the Government pa- rish of Berriedale. Mr Sinclair of Freswick, at the recommen- dation of his curators, has, in the handsomest manner, agreed to bear the whole expense of furnishing the necessary accommoda- tions. These will at least cost L.300 ; they are upon a scale more than ordinarily liberal^ and will be finished this season. The be- nefits to result from such an establishment in that quarter, it is diflScult to calculate, and the example of Mr Sinclair and his li- beral minded curators cannot be too highly recommended. From the exertions made in furnishing the means of education, there are few of the young who cannot read ; the greater number also learn to write ; but among those who are far advanced in life. LATHERON. Ill there is a considerable number who can neither read nor writei The people in general are certainly alive to the benefits that arise from a good education, and therefore make considerable ex- ertions, according to their small means, for supporting schools among them. No doubt several of the unendowed schools are of very inferior quality, as may be expected from the trifling re- muneration that some districts can afford, so that what is wanted is not so much additional schools as additional salaries, and con- sequently better qualified teachers. Without the former, it is hopeless to attempt to raise the character of the latter beyond what has already been done. There are four stations at least, where Society schools could be most advantageously located, and for which applications have frequently been made, though hitherto without efiect. It has already been observed, that the improve- ment in the conduct and morals of the young people is everywhere recognized by those who are acquainted with the parish'; and that this change is in a great measure to be ascribed to the additional facilities and improved system of education, cannot be doubted* The proprietors have already done much, and it is to be hoped, that the altered state of society for the better will encourage them to persevere, until all the scattered hamlets of this extensive and populous parish, second perhaps to no landward parish in Scot- land, are brought under the influence of a sound, moral, and re- ligious education. Having already noticed the recent improvements of an agri- cultural nature under that head, it may not be improper here to enumerate briefly those of an ecclesiastical and educational na- ture, which have taken place during the last twenty years, being the period of the incumbency of the present writer. The parish church, remodelled and greatly enlarged, — a Government church, manse, and glebe, established at Berriedale, and that district formed into a quoad sacra parish, with a separate minister, — a new church built at Lybster, with a separate minister settled there, and also formed into a quoad sacra parish, — the mission of Bruan, confined to that station, instead of two as formerly, and a commodious manse built for the missionary, with a suitable glebe attached ; — all of these ministers, actively and laboriously engaged in communicating religious instruction, and discharging the duties of pastoral superintendence among the people. As to education, there has been a new parish school with schoolmaster's accommodation erected ; another parochial school in the course 1 12 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. of erection at Dunbeath ; an Assembly school established at Ber- riedale, with schoolmaster's accommodation ; another Assembly school similarly provided at Reisgill, together with eight unen- dowed schools in different localities; the general qualifications of the teachers considerably raised ; the system of teaching Tastly improved ; and, consequently, the number of scholars almost in- credibly increased : the general average exceeds 1200. But still much remains to be done in both departments ; and as it is pleas* ing to reflect, that, in carrying forward these improvements, the harmony and good understanding subsisting betwixt the heritors and the present incumbent, have never been interrupted ; a circum- stance not a little creditable to the heritors, considering how many demands were necessarily made upon them ; so it is to be hoped that the same cordiality and good feeling will be mutually main- tained in prosecuting those that are still in contemplation. The readiness with which they have promoted these improvements, is very commendable. Friendly Societies. — There are two of these of long standing, one at Dunbeath and the other at Lybster. In many instances they have been remarkably useful, both in respect to widows and orphans, and also the aged and infirm ; but for several years back, they have not been becoming more flourishing, either as to members or funds. However, it is to be hoped that they may yet revive. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of persons at present on the poor's roll is 202 ; each of whom only receives at the rate of from 4s. to 8s. at the time of distribution, which is once a-vear. Such of them as are able, make their rounds through the parish occasionally, in order to obtain aid from those families whose cir- cumstances enable them to assist them ; and those that are bed- ridden or infirm have assistance sent them by the charitable and well disposed around them. There beingno parochial assessment, the collections made at the church doors, together with the inte- rest arising from a few benefactions, furnish the funds from which the poor receive the small pittance which can be assigned them. The average church collections may amount to L. 52 yearly, and the interest from benefactions to L. 18. The latter consist of L. 100, left many years ago, by the late Rev. Dr James Oswald of Glasgow ; L. 100 by the late John C. Sutherland, Esq. of Forse in this parish ; L. 100 by Conductor Sutherland of North America ; and L. 40 by Mr Alexander Finlaysou Macdonald of same place. Much to the credit of the poorer classes, they very LATHERON. 113 generally manifest a strong disinclination to seek relief from the poor's funds. There is a degree of virtuous pride, as well as strong natural affection very prevalent, which induces the children to support their aged and infirm parents to the utmost of their abi- lity ; and when applications are made for parochial relief, the cases are usually found to be very necessitous. This feeling is always encpuraged, and its opposite discountenanced by the kirk- session, by every possible means. Hence, in ordinary seasons, very few indeed apply for certificates of poverty ; and it is truly as- tonishing among such a large population, almost solely composed of the poorer classes, how very few are to be met with, asking cha- rity. The numbers of this description from the south are very great, and generally of very indifferent character ; but resolutions have recently been entered into by the county gentlemen, with a view of checking this great grievance, which, it is hoped, will have the desired effect. No year passes without many gross deceptions being practised upon the unsuspecting inhabitants, by designing persons of this description. . Fairs. — There are four fairs held in the parish for general pur- poses, two at Dunbeath and two at Lybster, during the year. /n7W.^There are not fewer than 26 public-houses, for retail- ing spirits, &c. in the parish, when six would have been quite sufficient for every necessary purpose. PueL — Almost all the fuel used consists of peats. The ex- pense attending its manufacture and carriage makes it ultimately very little cheaper than coal ; only, it is more convenient, being always at hand. October 1840. Addenda. The following is a list of the Ministers of the parish : — 1637^ Gilbert Anderson; Mr Munro; 1652, John Ross, translat- ed to Inverness in 1663; 1667, Niel Beaton, died 1715; 1717, Andrew Sutheriand, died 1732; 1734, James Brodie, died 1773; 1775, Robert Gun, died 1819; 1820, George Davidson. There are no Crown teinds in Latheron; but there are unap- propriated teinds belonging to other persons, which amount to nearlv L.400. CAITHNESS. H PARISH OF BOWER. rRESBYTERY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS. THE REV. WILLIAM SMITH, A. M., MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. NamCi S;c. — The name of the parisli is supposed to be derived from a Danish word signifying a valley. Its extent is 7 miles in length and 3 in breadth. IL — Civil History. State of Property and Antiquities^ ^c. — The boundary of the parish was Formerly, in the greater part of its extent, the boundary of distinct properties. The estates of Tister (formerly written Thuspisteer,) and NurthGeld, in this parish, connected with Durran, in the parish of Ulrick, had belonged to the family of Mr Sinclair Worth of Durran. Both of these estates are now the property of the Earl of Caithness. The property of Lyth, in this parish, separated by a burn only from How and Myreland, in the parish of Wick, belongs to Mr Sin- clair of Barrack. That of Bowermaddon, and half of Mursav, in this parish, have been added to Tain and Hoy, in the parish of Olrick. The boundary of Bowermaddon and Mursay was supposed to extend to the burn of Amatan ; and the intervening house and farm of Hartfield is partly in this parish, and partly in that of Dunnet. The mills on these two last have been pulled down, and a new one erected in place of them, on the boundary of Bowermaddon. The estate of Scarmclet, on the south-west side of this parish, has been acquired by Sir R. Ansti*uther, and added to his property of Dunn, in the parish of Watten, and improved by a new farm at Blackcarn, beyond Larel, and a steading of buildings at Bleedy- quoy, and the erection of an excellent new mill. On the pre- mises on which the old mill stood. Sir Ralph Anstruther has caused a i^chool-house to be built. BOWER. 115 The improvements formerly begun on the estates of Scarm- clet and Clayock, by the late Lieutenant- Colonel Benjamin Williamson of Banneskirk, have been considerably advanced by Sir Ralph Anstruther, by the erection of new farms and stead- ings, and dividing the possessions of the tenants by ditches 6 feet wide by 3 feet deep, which preclude the encroachments of cattle, and lay the land dry. Mr Henderson of Stempster has inclosed many acres 'by ditches, and improved his property by digging marl pits. The estate of Brabsterdorran (said once to have belonged to the earldom of Caithness) was lately, acquired from that of South Dunn, by Colonel Stewart of Strath, and resold to David Hen- derson, younger of Stempster : it is now more than four or five times the value of what it was wlien it belonged to the late Mrs Henrietta Sinclair Wemyss of South Dunn. The improvements begun on it by General Stewart, by the erection of a dwelling and offices on the site of the old mansion, some hedging, draining, and road-making, have been further ad- vanced, and the mains enlarged, with extended tillage, fallowing, and enclosures with stone ^and turf dikes, as also drains ; on the Mains, there were added a steading of offices, and a thrashing-mill driven by water, besides a new farm at lower Gillock, bounding with Lower Scarmclet and Quoynce. On the hill-ground to the east, beyond Brabster and Lister, at nearly equal distance from Brabster, Campster, and Belster of Lord Caithness's property, is placed the standing-stone called Stone Ludd, which, by an old tradition, is supposed to be the me- morial of a battle fought and gained. Torfaeus mentions a fight begun in the moss of Skitten, (paludi^ bits Skidensibus^) now oftener called Kilmster, by two brothers for the Earldom of Caithness, — Liotus, the elder, being supported in his right by the King of Norway, — Scullius, the younger, being aid- ed by the King of Scotland. It is said that the younger was slain in battle, and buried in Hofn, probably Stone Hone, near Wat- ten ; and that the elder, victorious brother, was mortally wounded. It is not improbable that the stone was raised as a memorial of Liotus, the Earl of Caithness and Orkney, in the tenth century. The lands of Bowertower and Auckhorn, Seater, Hastigrow, Kirk, and Stanstill, with Whitegan, belong to David Sinclair Wemyss of South Dunn, and still make up the highest share of the valuation of the parish. The mansion-house of Stanstill is let to a 1 16 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. tenant, with the mains enlarged, and a new square of offices, and thrashing-mill driven by horses. The estate of Thura was, within the last forty years, purchas- ed by the late William Sinclair, Esq. of Freswick. It is now the property of his son. The Mains have been lately improved by drains and extended enclosures. Among the improvements in this parish, those carried on by John Sinclair of Barrack, on the property of Lyth and Alterwall, may be reckoned the greatest He has added several hundred acres to the land in his own possession, laid much ground dry, multiplied enclosures, and on some of the pastures for sheep added wire fences, besides erecting a new mansion-house, and squares of farm-steadings. III. — Population. Population by census uf 1801, - 1572 1811, . 1478 1821, - 1486 1881, - 1615 Number of families in the parish in 1831, • . . 296 chiefly engaged in agriculture, 161 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, . 19 IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — All that the writer has to observe on this subject will be found under the head Civil History of this Account. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — Amount of stipend, 14 chalders. Value of the glebe per annum, L.5. There are only six Dissenting or Seceding families in the parish. Education. — There are four schools in the parish, one of which is parochial, and another a General Assembly's school. The sa- lary of the parochial master, including the amount of an equiva- lent for garden, is L.3d, 1 6s. 2d., and his school fees may amount to L.14 per annum. Poor and Parochial Funds. — Average number of poor for the three years 1835-56-37, — 53. Average amount of the sum dis- tributed for their support, L.18, l4s. 9d. This consists of church collections, and interest of Dr Oswald's legacy of L.100. October 1840. PARISH OF WICK. PRESBYTERY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF CAITHNESS AND SUTHERLAND. THE REV. CHARLES THOMSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The vocable toic in Danish, Saxon, and other northern languages of Gothic origin, signifies a corner^ a flexure^ n bending reach in a river, a bay. Hence the derivation of Wick, formerly spelled Weik, which has always been the name of this parish, is obvious. A well-defined and rather beautiful little wicy or bay, which, no doubt, formed a comparatively safe and commodious harbour to the Danish and Norwegian pirates* of ancient days, communicated its appellation to the village which gradually rose on its northern shore ; and, finally, the name was extended to the whole parochial district which, ultimately, became connected with the town. Extent. — The parish of Wick is 15J miles in extreme length from north to south ; its average breadth is about 5 miles ; and its superficial extent may be estimated at 77 square miles, or 61,600 imperial acres. Boundaries, — The parish of Wick is bounded, on the south by the parish of Latheron ; on the south-west, by the parish of Wattin ; on the north-west, by the parish of Bower ; on the north, by the parish of Canisbay ; and on the east, by the Moray Frith. Coast, — The coast of this parish presents along its line, which is about twenty-six miles in length, a great variety of features. Near the northern extremity, on the townland, or estate of Nybster, it is formed by lofty rugged rocks. These are succeeded by gently sloping fields, on the northern limit of the Bay of Keiss. Almost the whole of the shore on the bosom of this capacious bay is low, * The northern pirates received the name of Vikingr^ that is bay-men, because they lurked in the tificgy or bays. Wick is yet in use in the Scottish dialect, as the wick o' the mouth, the wick o* the ee. 118 CAITHMCSS-SUIUK. and formed of flinty sand. Towards the southern side, it is com. posed of comminuted shells. The coast now becomes bold and rocky till it reaches the Noss, or, as it is usually, but tauto- logically, styled, Noss-Head. From Noss to Staxigoe it is composed of lofty, black, and fugged rocks, which are continued with more or less of the same savage character to Proudfoot, the northern side of the entrance to the Bay of Wick* At the Head of Wick, opposite to Proudfoot, the same kind of rugged, rocky coast recommences, and continues, with but trifling interruptions, till it passes beyond the southern boundary of the parish. On the coast of the parish of Wick, there are numerous goes^'* or small inlets of the sea, with steep and rocky sides. Commencing at the south side of Keiss Bay, the principal of these, between it and Noss-Head, are Braidgoe; Caldersgoe; Sclatygoe; Ruthigoe; Girnigoe, crowned with the hideous ruins of Castle Sinclair and Girnigoe, the principal ancient baronial stronghold of the Sinclain;, Earls of Caithness ; Manigoe, supposed to be properly Moneygoe, because it is reported, and the fact, that in it several parcels of base copper coins have at different times been found, corroborates the tradition, that Earl George the Wicked entertained in it one Smith, a coiner of bad money ; Sandygoe ; and Mursligoe, the cove frequented by seals. An entrance from this goe leads under a small rock, by a dry passage, into an immense cavern under Noss-Head. Between this headland and Broad Haven, are Staxigoe, so called from some Stacks, or detached rocks, which rise above the sea at its entrance ; and Eltrigoe. Papigoe lies in the Bay of Wick. A passage is said to lead a considerable way from the sea, to a small knoll called the Pap, whence the name of Papigoe. On the shore to the south of Wick Bay, lies a black and frightftil chasm, on which stands the dismantled tower of Auld Wick. At sea, this ruin forms an excellent landmark, and is by sailors called the Aul' Man o' Wick. Southward from Auld Wick is the Burgh of Hempriggs, so called from its having been in very ancient times the site of a bruchy or fort, the traces of which are still visible. It forms a small fishing haven. In the mouth of it stand the Stacks of Hempriggs. The principal of these is an immense outstanding rock, perforated from side to side, and from top to bottom ; the resort, in the breeding season, of innumerable sea- • This ancient relic of Norwegian colonization is pronounced in one syllable, with the ff bard, as if written g^oet. WICK. 119 fowl ; atid always of a pair or two of merlin hawks. The Brig o Tram, Craig- Ammel, Brickigoe, and Falligoe, near the southern termination of the parochial coast, are some of its more interesting features. Keiss Bay, called also Reiss Bay, from the townland of Reiss» which lies upon it ; Ackergill Bay, from the noble Tower of Acker- gill, which stands on its shore, and likewise Sinclair Bay, from the neighbourhood of Castle Sinclair and Gimigoe ; and the Bay of Wick are the only two bays on the coast The former is by far the larger. Ships have often been stranded on its shore. This has arisen from its having been mistaken for the eastern en- trance of the Pentland Frith. A lighthouse ought to be erected on Noss-Head. This dangerous promontory, Proudfoot, the Head of Wick, and Ulbster Head, are the most important headlands on the coast Surface. — The surface of the parish of Wick is in general flat, or but very gently sloping in different directions. The northern parts generally face the south, and the southern have a northern and north-eastern exposure, as shown by the run of the water. Its aspect is bleak, unpicturesque, and tame. The heights of Yarrows and Camster, towards the south-west of the parish, are the only hills deserving of the name. Their elevation above the sea is conside- rable ; but their appearance is dull and heavy. A spacious valley, forming the fertile strath of Stirkoke, stretches in a westerly direction from the Bay of Wick to the Loch of Wat- tin, — a distance of about twelve miles, without ever attaining an elevation of more than 60 feet above the level of the sea. Half a mile above Wick, a similar valley, running southwards in a cir- eumlinear direction, and keeping nearly parallel to the sea coast, but bending a little more to the west, arrives at a somewhat greater elevation at its southern extremity, than the former. Another val- ley, containing thcdeep and extensive moss of Kilminster, separates the parishes of Wick and Bower. Meteorology. — The climate of this parish is that of the whole of Caithness, — very windy, humid, and variable. The average num- ber of days in the year with rain is 190 ; with snow, 36i ; and with frost, 35. The fall of rain is pretty equally distributed through- out the twelve months. The quantity of rain that fell in 1840, from the 1st of January to the 3lst of December inclusively, was as follows : — 120 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. Montln. Inches. Mooths. Inches. Months. ^"^^'S January, - 4.85 May. - 2.86 SfP^T*^'' ' ^f^ Kehruiy, • 1.56 June. - 1.99 October^ - ^18 March/ . .78 July. - 3 JJ^^*"^'' " f^i April, - .97 August. . 2.43 December, - 1.74 Total, 35 inches and 29 decimal parts, or rather more than one- fourth of an inch. Fogs, which are often very dense and wetting, generally come from the east They seldom last above an hour or two. This is owing to the breezy character of the weather, The days with fog amount in the year to 35. Westerly winds prevail. The winter is in general windy. In the beginning and the fall of the year, it is often exceedingly tempestuous. The following table, calculated fwm observations made for several years, will give some intimation of the various atmospherical conditions of the climate of this part of Scotland. Barometer. Spring. Summer. Autumn. Winter. Mean average, - 30.04 30.12 30.05 29.94 Highest, 30.85 30.80 30.70 30.70 Lowest, - - 29 00 29.40 28.90 28.90 Range, - - 180 1.85 1.40 1.80 lliermometer. Mean average, - 47'' 564« 56" 65« . Highest, . - 58 70i 65 55 Lowest, - - 32 52 44 33 Range, . - 26 184 21 22- Prevailing winds, S.£. to S. W. to N. S.E. to S. S. to N. W. &N.W. &N.E. & N.W. Days with rain. - 42 50 51 47 Days with snow, • 184 ^ ^ 16 Days with frost, .14 1 20 Days with fog, - 8 9 6 8 It appears from this table that the range of the barometer is least in summer, and of almost equal extent in the other three quarters, and that of the thermometer is nearly equal throughout the year ; the greatest range of each instrument being in spring. The range of the prevalent winds in winter is very circumscribed. In spring and autumn, they go round half the compass, and in the same direction firom south-east by south to north-west. In summer, their range is also limited, but not to such a degree as in winter. The winters are becoming milder and more open than they for- merly were. The number of days in the year with frost, and of those with snow, is decreasing. This present winter, however, has been very severe ; much more so, indeed, than any preceding win- WICK. 121 ter in the memory of the oldest inhabitants. Snow seldom falls for more than a day, or lies above two days, at a time. Thunder is very rare. It generally occurs at a great distance ; and light- ning seldom strikes or does any injury. In 1784, a halo, ^^ superbly bright and luminous, consisting of two bows, concentric, with an apparent interval of from three to four feet between them, and extending over a great part of the hemisphere, was distinctly seen." ♦ What are usually called fall- ing stars are frequently seen shooting across the nocturnal sky. The polar lights are visible almost every night, and generally pre- vent it from ever being very dark. Diseases. — Fevers, rheumatism, pleuritis, catarrh, cough, inflam- mation of the throat, are amongst the most numerous of the diseases. Pulmonary consumption is not frequent amongst adults ; but in- fants with any weakness about the chest are generally carried off in childhood by hooping-cough, which is often very general and fatal, or by different pectoral affections. Rheumatism was not common till about the beginning of the present century, when the homely warm woollen clothing of olden times began to give place to the flimsier though gayer cotton dresses, which are now very generally worn. Itch is exceedingly prevalent among the children. The kind of food on which the lower orders chiefly subsist, the state of their habitations, the scantiness of their clothing, and their indif- ference to cleanliness, along with the contagious nature of the complaint, sufiiciently account for this. Fever of a typhoid type is seldom absent from one lane or other in the burgh of Wick, Louisburgh, and Pulteneytown, whence it breaks out, and becomes epidemic in the neighbouring country. It is generally most acute soon after the close of the fishing -season. Nor is it difficult to account for its severity at that period. During the fishing there are not fewer than 10,000 persons added to the ordinary popula- tion of the place ; and these are necessarily crowded together, sometimes to the number of ten or twelve, in one small room. This circumstance, taken in connection with the great consump- tion of spirits, and the very filthy state of the houses, shores, and streets, with putrescent effluvia steaming up from the fishoffals lying everywhere about, render it a wonder that typhoid diseases are not much more prevalent. The shortness of the fishing-sea- * Statistical Account, Vol. x. p. 31. 122 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. son, the greater supply of food) and the state of excitement and activity in which all connected with the fishing live during the period of its continuance, are no doubt the great counteracting preservatives. Indigestion, arising from the almost exclusive vege- table food of the commonalty, is very frequent The small ten- ants, especially the females, are perhaps most liable to this com- plaint ; which seems to be on the increase. Small-pox is seldom long absent from the parish, and is often very fetal. Great numbers of the people have a strange antipathy to vaccination. They brand it as a tempting of Providence ; whereas their rejection of this preservative is this sin. British cholera is endemic and epi- demic, and often makes its appearance, especially in the latter form. It is never fatal in ordinary circumstances. Pestilential cholera visited Wick during the fishing season of 1632, a short while after its appearance at Thurso. The number of cases re- ported Umounted to 306, of which 66 proved fatal. From various calculations it appears, that the proportion of sick- ness in the difierent sexes gives 141^ females to 100 males. Under twenty years of age, more males are sick than females ; between twenty and seventy more females than males; and above the lat- ter age, they are equal. The proportion of sickness, to such a degree as to demand medical attention, is about 5^ or 6 per cent, of the population.* The deaths are, about 20 per cent, of the sick. Instances of great longevity are not uncommon. There is at present an old lady, resident in the burgh, who has entered into her 101st year, and an uld fanner, in the landward part of the parish, who has entered into his 102d. Both these venerable persons are in the perfect possession of all their mental and bodily faculties. Maniacs are very rare. Idiots and fatuous persons are remark- ablv common. A singular lusus naturaj which occurred in the person of a child ■in the neighbourhood of Wick, about eighteen years ago, may here be mentioned. This child had a perfect eye on the back of the head. It lived for two years ; and it is evident had the use of the supernumerary organ, from its never allowing a cap to be kept over it Hydroyraphy. — It is needless to describe the well-known stormy Moray Frith, which, as has already been said, forms the eastern boundary of the parish of Wick. WICK. 123 Tbe^ burns of Slickly, StaDstill^ and Kilmiaster contribute to supply the Loch of Wester, which lies within three-quarters of a mile of the shore of Keiss Bay. This loch is about a mile long and a third of a mile broad. Its outlet forms the River or Water of Wester, which, after a winding course, flows into the Bay of Keiss. On the very highest ground of Noss-Head is the Loch of Noss, which, notwithstanding its elevated situation, and though no streani- lets fall into it, is seldom if ever dry. The Loch of Kilminster lies in the middle of the moss of that name, and does not exceed three-fourths of a mile in breadth. The Loch of Winless is to the south of the Loch of Kilminster. The waters of both fall into the River of Wick. The River of Wick, by far the largest stream in the parish, is the outlet of the beautiful Loch of Wattin, in the parish of that name. It lazily flows in a south-easterly direction through the rich and loamy strath of Stirkoke, till, after a winding course of eleven or twelve miles, about nine of which are within the parish of Wick, which it divides into two parts of almost equal extent, it disembogues itself into Wick Bay. Its average breadth is about thirty feet ; but in rainy seasons, it overflows its banks, and over- floods the strath through which it winds. The principal stream- lets which it receives within the parish of Wick from the north, are the Burn of Winless, which issues from the loch of that name, the streamlet which flows from the Loch of Kilminster and Alti- marlach, close on the west side of the upper glebe. On the south side, the Burn of Bilbster is the first considerable streamlet which the River of Wick receives within the parish. The Burn of Hauster collects the greater part of its waters on the north and east of Camster, a townland belonging partly to Wick and partly to Latberon, (one of its sources being the little moss- fed Loch of Carnlia) ; and after a sweeping course of eight miles around the south side of Stirkoke, falls into the same river, upwards of three miles below the Burn of Bilbster. In the north end of the Moss of Tannach is Loch Dhu, three-quarters of a mile in cir- cumference. Its outlet falls into the Burn of Hauster. Half a mile to the south of Loch Dhu, lies the Loch of Hempriggs, about a mile in length from north to south, and more than half a mile in breadth. The natural outlet of this loch is the Burn of New- ton, which falls into the River of Wick, bejow the Burn of Haus- ter : but a lade, which has been cut from it, carries a runnel of 124 CAITHNESS-SUIIIE. water of fifty horse-power into' Pulteney town for various industrial purposes. This loch is supplied chiefly from the Loch of Yar- rows, two miles and a half distant to the south-west, into which runs the water of the drained Loch of Brickigoe. Two trifling lochs, one of which is named Wairows, among the hills of Yar- rows, send out, towards the sea, a little stream, which divides into two streamlets, one of which runs into the Loch of Sarclet, lying half-way between Sarclet and Ulbster House; and the other falls into the sea at Falligo, southwards of Ulbster. The Loch of Sarclet, which is not above three-fourths of a mile in circumfe- rence, discharges its waters into the sea, a little to the south of the village of that name. The waters of the valley of Camster fall away, to the south, into the parish of Latheron. Except a few rather pretty braes towards the mouth of the River of Wick, the scenery, both on the loclis and on the brooks of the parish, is as tame and unpicturesque as it possibly can be. Most of the well-water of the parish of Wick is impregnated with lime or iron. Chalybeate springs of considerable strength occur a little to the south of the Castle of Auld W^ick, and on the face of a low bank to the north of Proudfoot, the north-eastern extremity of the Bay of Wick. Geohgy, — Of the hilly ranges on the south and west of the pa- rish, the formation is principally composed of grey wack^ and grey- wacke slate, with a few limestones, sandstones, &c. Towards the summit of the Yarrows Hills, a gneissy formation abounds. With these exceptions, the rock-formations of this parish consist almost entirely of the coarser kinds of the clay-slate or flagstone, so pre- valent in the flatter grounds of Caithness. This is an immense formation of alternating beds of silicious and calcareo-silicious flag- stone or slate-clay ; dark, foliated, bituminous limestone ; pyri- tous shale ; sandstone, &c The silicious beds predominate in the lowest position in this formation, and the calc^reo- bituminous bed gives the type to the intermediate part, becoming more silici- ous and arenaceous at the upper posture, and so graduating into the superior division. The aggregate thickness of these deposits is very greaL The clifis along the coast to the north of Keiss are chiefly com- posed of grey, brown, and greenish sandstone in thin layers, alter- nating with pyritous shale, which disappear in the Bay of Keiss. At the Castle of Girnigoe, there is a remarkable section of the WICK. 125 dark-bluish calcareous flagstone, wbich continues along the coast to the cliffs southwards of the burgh of Wick. This deposit dif- fers from the general formation of the district in being in thicker beds, on which account it is much used in building. The stratal dip is generally to the north-east, with, however, numerous inter- ruptions. Of the cliffs to the south of the Bay of Wick, the stratal dip is in the same direction, and the flagstone is surmounted by soft greenish micaceous shale and sandstone. The opera? lions near the southern side of the new harbour of Pulteneytown have brought into view a very singular disposition of the superior recumbent detritus. This, for the space of about 100 yards, is composed of large stones, huddled together like the rubbish of a quarry. The bank of fine bluish clay, resting upon this, is of con- siderable height. Imbedded in it,, and near its summit, lies a con- spicuous mass of coarse-grained dark-grey granite, of perhaps twenty tons in weight. It has been blasted with gunpowder, and various idle attempts have been made, but happily without success, to destroy this huge and remarkable boulder. A similar granitic boulder is found opposite, on the northern side of the bay. These are the only specimens known of this kind of stone in the parish ; and they bear evident marks of having been rolled along by some mighty current. Farther along the coast, on the south side of Wick Bay, nearer the Castle of Auld Wick, where the sea-cliffs are above thirty feet in height, and far above the reach of the high tide, the uppermost strata have been deranged by some mighty force directed upon them from the Moray Frith. Enormous masses of rock have been broken off from their beds, and thrown upon one another in most terrific confusion. One prodigious mass has been heaved from its bed below, and placed upon a similar rock immediately above, on which it is supported by a small stone between them, so that a person can walk beneath it. About four miles to the south of Wick, the line of bearing of the schistose rocks is altered ; and from a point near Ulbster, where they begin to dip in an inland or westerly direction, a great change is observable in the physical character of the country. Fossil Organic Remains. — Ichthyolites are universally spread over this extensive deposit ; and their occurrence is not confined to one particular stratum, but is characteristic of this vast schis* 126 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. tose formation, from the lowest to the highest beds. They have been found at Wester, near Keiss Bay, and elsewhere. These stone- fish occur in beds of dark-gray calcareous schist, highly bitumi- nous and micaceous* In general, the animal rfoiains are easily distinguishable from the imbedding matrix by their dark colour. Professor Agassiz, the celebrated naturalist, who has devoted so much of his time to the study of fossil fishes, has determined, and for the first time, with accuracy, the characters of our Caith- ness species. Minerafagy, — Minerals are not abundant The laminated beds of the rock-formatfon are, over all the parish, much intersected by symmetrical joints and fissures, which are filled up in numerous in- stances with trap. This often has the direct effect of altering the stratal inclination, and indeed of twisting and contorting it in all imaginable directions. Quartz or felspar likewise often fills up these fissures ; the smaller of which are sometimes occupied en- tirely with calc-spar. The clay-slate contains many varied pyrites. At Staxigoe there is a vein of ironstone. Running down into the harbour of this village, there is a vein of lead-ore imbedded in fel- spar. Between Staxigoe and Broad Haven are several small veins of copper-ore. At the latter village there is a pretty good appear- ance of alum-rock. Immediately to the south of the Castle of Auld Wick, is the best vein of copper in the parish. It was wrought about eighty years ago by a company of miners, who carried off several ship loads of ore; but, having found a better vein in l^het- land, it was abandoned ; but not, however, before they secured themselves against competition, by taking a lease of it from the proprietor. Sulphate of barytes occurs on the coast opposite to the House of Ulbster, and is in some places three feet thick. In the immediate neighbourhood of the Tower of Ackergill, there is a considerable vein of a kind of parrot-coal, which emits a bright flame in burning, but is not reduced to ashes. Marl of various qualities abounds in this parish. The draining of the loch of Brickigoe has made accessible a bed of most excel- lent marl of 20 feet in depth. The soil varies in different places. The moss at the foot of the hills of Yarrows, the one between Sarcletand Ulbster; the Moss of Tannach, and the Moss of Kilminster, the last of which is many feet in depth and of great extent, — are the principal deposits of peat-earth In the parish of Wick. 4 WICK. 127 From three to four hundred acres in the strath of Stirkoke are covered to the depth of from three to five feet, with an alluvial and loamy soil, which has evidently been brought by the River of Wick in repeated fldbds from the parish of Wattin. This track is one of the richest meadows for the grazing of cattle in Caithness, hut is subject to frequent inundations. On the banks of the Hauster Water, and, in several other places, a deep covering of detritus and shale is to be met with. These contain many fragmentary remains of ostraceous shells, which are found at a height of from 100 to 150 feet above the level of the sea. Though the soil is in some places light and sandy, and in other places rich and loamy, yet m by far the greater part of the parish it consists of a stiff hard clay, produced by the decomposition of the clay-slate. In general, the subsoil is composed of a close, retentive, gravelly clay, mixed with fragments of slate not yet de- composed, and resting on the surface of the flagstone or clay-slate. This construction retains the moisture which, along with the hu- midity of the climate, renders the soil not merely damp, but in many places wet, and thus offers the greatest obstacle to the im* provement of the land. Botany, — The two Scottish heaths. Erica cinereay heather, and E, tetralixy bell-heather, abound on the moors. A purely white variety of the former is occasionally found. The bilberry, Vac- cihium myrtillus^ blaeberry ; the Empetrum nigrum^ cranberry ; the black bear-berry, Arbutus alpiiia ; and the red bearberry, A. Uva ursi^ may likewise be found on heathery banks and heights. Myrica gale^ the Scottish myrtle, is occasionally found shedding its agreeable perfume across an impassable bog. One of the most elegant of our indigenous flowers, the birds'-eye primrose. Primula farinosa^ called also from its flowering in April and Au- gust, Primula Scotivoy the Scottish primrose, adorns, with its lovely little purple flowers, the savage heights of the coast of the Moray Frith. It is also called the powdered beau, from the white dust which plentifully covers the under side of the petals. The primrose, Primula veris, is found on the burn sides. A very dwarB.^h species of willow may be met with creeping among the heather in wet places. Orchidaceous flowers, baldairies, in great variety abound. The Links of Keiss are begemmed in the season with the beautiful little white flower of Parnassus, Pamas* sia palustris. White and red clovers are indigenous ; the former 129 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. often springs up spontaneously on grounH which has never been cultivated, when a little lime may have fallen upon it, or it may have been casually turned up by the wheel of a cart or the plough. This is also the case with a species of hearts-ease*. The tubers of Orobus tuberosus^ knappards or caperoilie, which have a sweetish taste, somewhat like that of liquorice, are sometimes chewed. to allay hunger. Corncockle, Agrostemma GithagOy which has but very lately made its appearance in this quarter ; betony, B. offi* cinalisj found, though but dwarfish, on the road sides ; ground- ivy, Glechoma hederacea ; and foxglove, Digitalis purpurea^ found near Thrumster, are of comparatively rafe occurrence. The last plant is provincially called dead merCs bells, and has many superstitions connected with it. But the rarest plant in the parish of Wick was the white water-lily, Nymphcsa alba, which was found only in one spot in all the county of Caithness. This was the Loch of Brickigoe, on the estate of Thrumster. But some time ago this loch was drained for marl, and the pride of the Catha- ncnsian Flora destroyed. Roots, however, were taken from the Loch of Brickigoe, and planted in a pond near the House of Stirkoke, and at different places in the county of Caith- ness. Lichens in great variety, and often of great beauty, clothe the rocks and stones in all parts of the parish. The rein-deer lichen, Z/. rangiferinusi grows to the height of about three or four inches among the heather. Woods. — There are at present no natural woods in the parish. Trees have been planted to a considerable extent around the houses of Hempriggs, Stirkoke, and Thrumster ; but neither the climate nor the soil is congenial to their growth, and they do not thrive. Elder is excepted ; almost everywhere it flourishes amaz- ingly. Quickset hedges have, in many places, been trained into good fences. But though the parish of Wick is at present destitute of natural wood, such does not appear to have been always the case. It is said, that, in the beginning of the seventeenth century, the hills of Yarrows were covered with copse-wood, which was destroyed by fire, for the purpose of expelling the wolves, with which the place was infested. But the most remarkable evidence of ancient woods is found in the Bay of Keiss. Between the links and the sand, and running down under the sea, there are found the re- WICK. 129 mains of a submarine forest. These are like peat moss, entirely composed of decayed wood. The barks of various kinds of trees are quite discernible ; and even the seeds of the birch and ash are so well preserved, as to appear but lately from the tree. No large trunks are found ; only small specimens of oak, ash, birch, and plane-tree ; but none of fir. Mammalogy. — Remains of bovine ruminants of a very large size have been found in the mosses and marl-pits of this parish. The wolf and the wild-goat were once common in the district, but have both been extinct long ago. The wild-cat *is occasionally seen. Otters are often found. The Links of Reiss are stored with rabbits. Hares are numerous. The fox breeds in the rocks about the coast. Moles are super- abundant. Weasels, ferrets, and polecats, are not uncommon. Ermines have been found at Stirkoke. A stray deer from the heights of Morven is occasionally met with. The native breed of horses, still employed by the smaller ten- ants, is diminutive tTnd weak. Their ^^^ovincial name \s garrons. The original stock of cattle was also small, but the^beef was ex- cellent. Probably the ancient Cathanensian breed of $heep is not yet altogether extinct in* the parish of Wick. They are very small, with a dirty brown fleece and four small horns. Ornithology. — By the kindness of Eric Sutherland Sinclair, Esq., surgeon in Wick, who has paid much attention to this sub- ject, this Report is enriched with the following " List of birds found in the county of Caithness, and principally in the parish of Wick." It cannot fail to be extremely interesting ; and may astonish some with the extent and variety of Cathanensian ornithology. Mr Sin- clair has formed with his own hands an extensive ornithological collection illustrative of the natural history of the district All the birds in the subsequent list, except those marked with an asterisk, are in this learned gentleman's museum. The names of birds found in the county of Caithqess, and prin- cipally in the parish of Wick. Aquila Chrysaeta Buteo vulgaris Strix flammca Halisetus Albicilla Lagopus Ululastridula Accipitcr fringillarius Pernis apivorus Hirundo rusticu Astur palumbarius Circus rufiw ,. urbica Falco percgrinus cyaneus ■ riparia Subbuteo cineraceus Cypselus murarius _ Tinnunculus Otus vulgaris Capriinulgus Kuropsus .— iEsalon Brachyotos Muscicapa grisola CAITHNESS. I IM UwTv MoDcduki Garmlns gbndarios Cvgnos — — mtui IL — CiTiL History. There can be no doubt that the aboriginal inhabitants of the district which now forms the parish of Wick, were of Celtic origin. This is proTed by sereral names of places and rimlets, such as WICK, 131 Auchairn,* Altimarlach, Drumdriy, which are significant in the Gaelic language. The Celtic inhabitants were invaded and evidently subjugated by the Pechts or Picts, a people of Scythic, or more properly Scuthic, extraction, who sailed from Scandinavia to Orkney; whence they passed into Caithness across the straits denominate ed from them the Pechtland, softened into the Pentland, Frithf and spread themselves over almost the whole of Scotland. Many traces of them are yet to be met with in the parish of Wick, both in traditions, and in the shape of those singular and curious ar- chitectural ruins called to this day by the common people, Pecht's bouses. The designation Cruithnich^ pronounced Creenichy that is, wheatmen, by which the Pechts are known in the Gaelic lan^ guage— the durability of their habitations extending even to pre* sent times, when all traces of the turfen huts of their Celtic pre- decessors have long ago passed away— -the legendary marvels of their strength and skill — and the superstitious awe with whicli, even to this day, the places of their residence are regarded, evince that the Pechts must have been a people greatly superior to the Celts, and far advanced beyond them in knowledge and civili<^ zation. About the year 910, Harrold the Fair-haired, a Norwegian king, having expelled the pirates who infested the Northern Seas^ from the Orkneys, carried the war into Pictland, where he was defeated with great slaughter. On his return to Norway, he granted the Orcadian Islands to Ronald, a powerful Norwegian chieftain, to comfort him for the loss of Ivar, his son, who had fallen in battle. Ronald made over this grant to Sigurd, his bro- ther, who, having speedily reduced the Orcadians, passed into Caithness, and subdued it, with Sutherland and Ross, under his authority. Under a succession of Norwegian earls, a very close and frequent intercourse subsisted after this event, for ages, be^ tween the north of Scotland and Norway ; whence numerous bands of Norwegians successively came and settled in Caithness. Sui> names of Norwegian extraction, as Swanson, son of Swen, Man*- son, son of Magnus, Ronald, Harrold, &c. are frequent in this pa- rish. The termination sterj softened from stadr^ a steading, which enters into the names of Camster, Ulbster, Stemster, Hauster, Thuster, Bilbster, Sibster, Wester, Thurster, and Nybster, shows • Auch-charn, the field of the heap of stones. Alt-na-marlach, thiers-burn. 132 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. also the prevalence of Norwegian colonization within the district now forming the parish of Wick. The clan Gun are said to have originated in the twelfth cen- tury within the parish of Wick, where they once were very power- ful, and still are very numerous. About the year 1100, Olaf, a man of great bravery, dwelt in the isle of Graemsay, one of the Orkneys. He had three sons, Waltheof, Gun, and Swen. ♦ From the second of these, traditionally called the Great Gun of Ulbster, where he dwelt, the clan Gun deduce their descent. About 1 1 40, Ronald, Earl of Orkney, whose name was canon- ized at Rome in 1192, ^* was entertained at a town called Wick, by Roald, who had a son that was come to maturity, called Swen, who was one of those that waited at table." f Margad, who ma- naged the possessions at Dungaldsbay, now Duncansbay, of Swen Olafson, who followed the profession of a pirate, went some time afterwards to Wick, and twenty men with him, to transact some business, and before his return slew Roald in his own house, and some others with him. Earl Ronald was urged by Swen, the son of Roald, to avenge the murder of his father; but the Romish saint, after some feeble attempts to seize the person of Margad, who was successfully protected by Swen, his master, was, after still more horrible atrocities had been perpetrated, reconciled at last to both the murderer and the pirate.j: Some time thereafter, whilst Ronald was on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, Harrold the Wicked, Earl of Orkney, spent the winter at Wick, and was robbed of the rents of his estates in Zetland by Swen the pirate, whose strong- hold was at Lambsburgh, hodiernally Buchollie's Castle in Canis- bay, near the northern boundary of the parish of Wick. § Caithness continued subject to Orcadian earls of Scandinavian extraction till about 1330, when, owing to the failure of the male line, this earldom went into other families, and the power and in- fluence of the Norwegians passed away. At, and for some time previously to this era, more than a third part of Caithness, including the district which now forms the pa- rish of Wick, was possessed by a family surnamed De Cheyne* The last of the male line, Sir Reginald, is yet under the designation of Morar na Shien, famous in the Highland districts as a mighty hunter. He was most anxious for a son to heir his vast estates ; and when his wife, Mary, brought him a daughter,* he order- ed, in a paroxysm of fury, the child to be destroyed. It was, • Pope*s Torfeeus. f '»>. t lb- § lb. WICK. 133 • however, conveyed away ; and a little sister escaped, in a similar manner, the rage of her twice disappointed father. Years rolled on, and Morar na Shien often lamented his childless condition. At length, on some public occasion, a great festival was held, at which Sir Reginald noticed two young ladies, who far outshone the rest of the company. Morar na Shien expressed his admiration, and lamented to his wife his cruel infatuation, by which he had been deprived of daughters, who, had they been allowed to live, would have been about the age of these peerless beauties. Mary de Cheyne hastened to confess her justifiable disobedience to her husband's orders, and introduced the young ladies to him as his own daughters. Overpowered with joy, Sir Reginald de Cheyne acknowledged them as his, and constituted them heiresses of his extensive possessions. Morar na Shien died about the year 1350. Mariotta, his elder daughter, married John de Keith, the second son of Edward the Marischal, by whom she had a son, An- drew, who became possessed, in right of his mother, of the lands of Ackergill and other estates in the parish of Wick» Marjory, the younger, was heiress of Duffus, and married Nicholas, the se- cond son of Kenneth, Earl of Sutherland, who thus obtained the castle and lands of Auld Wick, in the same parish. William, on whom his father, Earl William, passing by an elder brother of the same name, entailed the earldom 6f Caithness, married a daugh- ter of Keith of Ackergill. These various marriages brought the Sinclairs, Sutherlands, and Keiths into the parish of Wick ; and subsequent events gave rise to the following couplet, which is yet often repeated : Sinclair, Sutherland, Keith, and clan Gun, There never was peace whar thae four war in. About the year 1464, serious disputes having arisen between the Keiths and the clan Gun, Keith of Ackergill associated with himself the Mackays of Strathnaver, who readily entered into the quarrel, and marched against his enemies. The hostile parties encountered each other on the Moor of Tannach, in the parish of Wick. A desperate conflict ensued, but afler a cruel slaughter on both sides, the Guns were at last defeated. To terminate these bitter and bloody feuds, it was arranged that a meeting should take place with twelve horses on each side, between Ackergill and the Cruner, as the chief of the clan Gun was styled. This in- terview was appointed to be held in the Chapel of St Tears, not far from Ackergill. The Cruner, with the greater part of his sons 134 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. aDd principal kinsmen, to the number of twelve altogether, came at the time appointed, and, as Keith had not yet arrived, they pro- ceeded into the chapel to their devotions. Whilst they were at prayer, Ackergill came up with twenty-four men, on each horse two, and rushing on the Cruner and his followers, overpowered and slew them all, but not before the greater part of the Keiths had fallen. This horrid act of treachery did not pass unreveng* ed. William, the grandson of the Cruner, afterwards intercepted and cut off George Keith of Ackergill and his son, with twelve of their retainers, at Drummoy in Sutherland. The lands of Ac- kergill passed into the possession of the Earl of Caithness. The earls of Caithness, who had acquired the greater part of the parish of Wick, fixed their baronial residence at the Castle of Girnigoe, near the Tower of Ackergill. In 1576, this stronghold became the scene of one of the most fearful atrocities on re- cord. John, the Master of Caithness, surnamed from his great strength, Garrow,* had incurred the displeasure of his father, George, the fifth Earl of Caithness of the name of Sinclair, be- cause he would not execute the revengeful hatred of the earl against Dornock, and extirpate its inhabitants. Having inveigled the Master into the snares which had been laid for him, his father had him seized at Girnigoe, and cast into a dark and noisome dun- geon below ground^ in which he dragged out for years a wretched existence. At last his keepers, David and Ingram Sinclair, rela- tives of his own, determined to destroy him ; and after having kept him for some time without food, gave him a large mess of salt beef, and then withholding all drink from him, left him to die of raging thirst. This inhuman earl died at Edinburgh in 1583, and his body was buried in St Giles% where his monument is still to be seen. His heart was cased in lead, and placed in the Sinclair's aisle, where his murdered son was buried at the church of Wick. There is evidence that, if not a Papist, he leaned much to Popery. He was succeeded by his grandson, George, son of John Gar- row, who began his career by avenging his father's death. David Sinclair resided at Keiss, and Ingram at Wester. The daughter of the latter was to be married, and a large party were invited to the wedding. Earl George met David on his way to Wester, and ran him through the body with his sword. The earl then rode over to Wester, and accosted Ingram as he was playing at foot- • Garh'iy Gaelic, rough, strong. WICK. 135 ball on the green. << Do you know/' said he, ^< that one of my corbies," so he called his pistols, ^< missed fire this morning ?"— and drawing it from tlie holster as if to look at it, shot him through the head. In 1588^ the Earl of Sutherland, in revenge for the slaughter of one of his dependents by the Sinclairs, made an inroad into Caithness, and advanced as far as Wick, which he took and burn- ed. One of his followers, having entered the church, found the leaden box enclosing the heart of the late Earl of Caithness, and, disappointed in his expectations of treasure, broke the casket open, and flung the corrupted heart into the air. Proceeding onwards, the Sutherlands laid siege to the Castle of Girnigoe, from which they retired, after having beleaguered it in vain for twelve days. Next year the men of Caithness having killed the Earl of Suth- erland's herdsman, that chieftain sent an army of 300 men, who marched almost as far as Girnigoe, and cruelly ravaged the country. In this inroad, they spoiled the ship, and plundered the goods of one Andrew Wardlaw, a merchant in the town of Wick. In 160G, the Earl of Caithness, by purchase of some estates, became proprietor of almost all the parish of Wick ; but his infa- mous conduct, which has procured for him in the traditions of this parish, the cognomen of the Wicked, involved him in inextrica- ble difficulties. To recruit his exhausted resources, he harbour- ed at Girnigoe a coiner called Arthur Smith, who filled the coun- try with bad money. This, and his turbulence brought down upon his head the vengeance of the Court ; and Sir Robert Gordon, the first Knight-baronet of Scotland, was despatched with ample powers to chastise the treasonable earl. Lord Caithness fled ; but Sir Robert laid waste his estates, and took possession of his castles of Girnigoe, Ackergill, and Keiss. The earl at length submitted himself, and was alimented by his creditors with an an- nuity out of his dilapidated estates. He died in 1643, and was succeeded by his great-grandson, George, who sold in 1672, the whole earldom, title, and all, to the Laird of Glenorchy, and died in 1676. Glenorchy, who thus had become proprietor of the greater part of the parish of Wick, having married the Countess, assumed the title of Earl of Caithness. His right to this honour was disput- ed by George Sinclair of Keiss. To vindicate his claim, Glen- orchy having obtained letters from the Council, raised a troop of 136 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. several hundred men, and tnarched against Sinclair, to dispossess him of his patrimonial estate. Keiss collected a force of 400 men, and awaited his enemy in the borough of Wick. There he plentifully regaled his followers ; who had not recovered from their revelling, when, on the 13th of July 1680, they were informed that the Campbells were crossing the country towards Keiss. In- flamed with drink, the men of Caithness vauntingly rushed on the men of Glenorchy, who were strongly posted on the western bank of the burn of Altimarlach, on the northern side of the River of Wick, close above what now forms the upper glebe. A total rout pf the revellers immediately ensued, who turned their backs and fled through the gully towards the river. Numbers were killed in attempting to cross ; and tradition says, that the Campbells, in pursuit of the fugitives, passed over the river dry-shod, on the bodies of the slain. Notwithstanding this disaster, the right of Sinclair of Keiss to the title of Earl of Caithness was at last re- cognized, and Glenorchy was created, as a sort of compensatioD, Baron of Weik. The Baron of Weik was hated by the people. They burned the corn and houghed the cattle of the tenants on his estates ; till at last, utterly wearied with these incessant vexations, he divided the whole of his lauds in Caithness into sixty-two portions, great and small, which he sold in 1690. In this transaction terminated the civil history of the parish of Wick. Nothing has since occurred within it worth recording. Land-owners. — The principal land-owner is the Right Ho- nourable Benjamin Dunbar Sutherland, Baron of DufTus, and a Ba- ronet. Lord Dufl*us is paternally descended from Nicholas Suther- land, second son of Kenneth, Earl of Sutherland, who married Mar- jory de Cheyne, second daughter of the celebrated hunter, Morar na Shien. Marjory was heiress of DufTus, and likewise of Auld Wick in this parish, of which her descendant is proprietor at this day. The other land-owners are, William Home, Esq. of Scouthel, who possesses, in the parish of Wick, the estates of Stirkoke and Sibster ; Robert Innes, Esq. of Thrumster ; Kenneth Macleay, Esq. of Keiss and Bilbster ; John Sinclair, Esq. of Barrock, proprietor in Wick, of Howe and Mireland ; Sir George Sinclair, Bart of Ulbster ; the Earl of Caithness, of Mirelandorn ; William Sin- clair, Esq. of Freswick, proprietor in Wick, of Nybster ; the Bri- tish Society for improving the fisheries are feudatories under Lord WICK. 137 Duffus of PulteDeytown ; andJames Smith, Esq. of Olrig, is owner of a small property. Of these, Lord Duffus and Robert Innes, Esq. are the only con- stantly resident land-owners. William Home, Esq. is occasional- ly resident at Stirkoke. All the rest are non-resident. Parochial Registers, — The records belonging to the Kirk-session have not been well preserved. The earlier minutes of session have been lost. Those at present extant consist of five volumes. Of these, the first, which contains 237 folio pages, commences on the 20th of July 1701, and ends on May 13th 1723 ; the second, which con- tains 85 folios, begins on May 2d 1742, and ends on September 24th 1758; the third, containing 145 folios, begins on October 1st 1758, and ends on January 13th 1793; the fourth, which contains 139 leaves, and is a mere ragged fragment of a quarto volume, wanting both beginning and end, commences on the 29th of October 1801, and terminates on February 9th 1816; and the fifth, in which the minutes of Session are being recorded, commen- ces on July 12th 1816. The baptismal registers, which have not been regularly kept, consist of six volumes, and commence on the 3d of November 1701. Up till a late date the registers of ma- trimonial contracts, and of births and baptisms, were strangely mix- ed and jumbled together. The register of marriages commences on the 2dth of August 1840. There is no register of deaths. Antiquitfes. — Several cairns on the Yarrows Hills are, perhaps, with the addition of some Gaelic names of places, the only remains of the aboriginal Celtic inhabitants of this district. The curious ruins of the Pechtish habitations are numerously scattered all over Caithness. Several of these are in the southern division of the parish of Wick. Some occupy the most fertile situations ; others again are placed on barren land, where there are no traces of cultivation. In their outward appearance the Pechtish houses look like little round grassy knolls, about twelve or sixteen feet in height. One at Thrumster, the seat of Robert Innes, Esq., from which the earth has in part been removed, was found to have been composed of two concentric circular walls, built of stone and clay, with a con- siderable interval between them filled up with earth ; the whole forming a rampart of about eighteen feet in thickness. The en- closed area was occupied with several cells; and evident marks of five fire-places around the inside of the inner wall were discovered. The whole was very inartificially vaulted with flagstones, and cover- 138 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. ed over with a tbick coating of earth* Various articles* were fouud among the rubbish ; such as a wooden distaff, which soon crumb- led into dust; a freestone basin ; and three bullets about the size of musket-balls, of a substance like marbles streaked with blue. The skeleton of a tall man, who had been buried in a coffin made of flags, was dug up from the mould which had been heaped up against the outside of the fabric In most of the Pechtish houses which have been opened, there were found little recesses in the inner walls, which had evidently been used as dormitories for the inhabitants. There can be little doubt that these remarkable structures were the dwellings of the Pechtish chiefs, who were in all likelihood both the leaders and priests of their people. The power and in- fluence with which, by force and fraud, they ruled over and oppres- sed the Celts who formed the bulk of the population, have invested even to this day, the places of their abode with dread and terror. It is still deemed no cannie to dig up a Pecht's house. Scarcely will a peasant profane their verdant sward with a spade. He stands in dread of the fairies, who yet are believed to haunt such places, or of some other unknown and revengeful power. A ruin on the Links of Keiss, called Toft- Ferry, is pointed out by tradition as the remains of the first house built of stone in Keiss, and one of the first three built in the parish of Wick. The other two were, one at Harland and one at Hauster. * On the Links of Kiess, and about half-a-mile to the south of Toft- Ferry, there are near the beach other two ruins covered with sand, called the Birkle Hills. These are more conspicuous than Toft- Ferry, being of a conical form, and elevated about thirty- five feet from their base, and about sixty-five yards asunder. They are said to be the ruins of two castles, called Castles Linglass. Tradition reports that the castles were burned down ; and the re- port is confirmed by the calcined state of such stones as have been dug from the ruins. It is said that a village, was connected with them, of which, however, there are now no remains. An apparently monumental stone at Ulbster, on which are en- graved some untraceable sculptures, is said to mark the grave of a Danish princess, whom Gun, the progenitor of the clan Gun, married in Denmark. The vessel in which the Great Gun of Ulbster returned home with his bride was wrecked on the iron- bound shores of Caithness, and the Danish princess was drowned. Elsher's Cairn, between Wick and Papigoe, marks the spot WICK. • 139 where it is traditioDally reported that an Earl Alexander was slain. Who he was, or whence he drew his title, is not known. Along the coast, are four very ancient strongholds, three of which are in ruins, llie Castle of Auld Wick is perhaps one of the old^t buildings in Caithness. It stands to the south of Wick Bay, on a lofty peninsular rock projecting into the Moray Frith, and consists at present of the grim remains of a strong tower of the rudest masonry, with the merest slits for windows. The space behind it towards the sea, has been occupied with two ranges of lower buildings, the foundations of which are yet traceable. On the very point of the projecting rock, is a flat smooth space, surrounded by the remains of a wall, which appears to have been a kind of garden, promenade, or bowling*green. Rude steps lead down to the sea. The whole has been defended on the land-side by a deep ditch, over which communication has been held with the land by means of a drawbridge. The ruins of this black unsightly tower, still nearly three stories high, form an excellent land-mark to sailors, by whom it is called the AuP Man o' Wick. The Castle of Auld Wick was, in the beginning of the fourteenth century, one of the strongholds of Sir Reginald de Cheyne. On his death, before 1350, it passed into the possession of Nicholas Suth- erland, second son of Kenneth Earl of Sutherland, and ancestor of the Barons of Duffus, who married Marjory, second daughter of Sir Reginald. The castle and lands of Auld Wick after- wards went by marriage into the femily of Oliphant ; and tradition says that a Lord Oliphant was slain in a rencounter not far from the tower. By the Oliphants they were sold to the Earl of Caithness ; by a subsequent earl, they were disposed of to Glenorchy, by whom they were sold to Dunbar of Hetopriggs, and finally by the mar- riage of Sir James Sutherland, second son of James, second Lord Duffus, with Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Sir William Dun- bar of Hempriggs, the lands and castle of Auld Wick have come into the possession of the present Lord Dufins, the lineal male re- presentative of Nicholas Sutherland and Marjory de Cheyne. The Castle of Girnigoe, which stands a little to the west of Noss-Head, was the chief baronial stronghold of the Sinclairs, Earls of Caithness. Its ruins occupy the whole surface of a bold peninsular rock, which, starting from a shoulder of the mainland, shelters a goe or inlet of some width, whence the castle received its name. The ruins are evidently of different ages. The date 140 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. of the older and larger portion, which is the one farther out, is buried in remote antiquity. The newer portion seems to have been built in the sixteenth century. The extremity of the penin- sular rock is occupied by a chamber said to have been the Earl's bed-room. A trap-door in the middle of the floor led throdgh the rock to the sea. This room communicated by a flight of steps with the court, which stood on a higher. level. On the right side^ facing the Bay of Keiss, ran a range of low rooms all the way to the dungeon-keep, while towards the land there were only three or four small rooms next the bed-chamber, the rest of the court on that side having been shut in by a high wall, pierced with seven loop-holes. The tower, which consisted of five stories, and is about fifty feet in height, occupied the whole breadth of the rocL The staircase^ circular within, stood in the north-east comer next the land. No part of the stair remains. The main mri of the tower is of such a size as to contain several vaulted apartments on the ground floor, besides the passage to the newer building. In one corner of the room next the sea there is a nar- row stair leading into a cell, partly formed in the rock. A small window opening on the Bay, but beyond the reach of the hapless captive, gives light enough to reveal the gloom which pervades the dungeon. Here languished for several years, till he was ultimately murdered, John Garrow the Master of Caithness, a victim to the hatred of his unnatural father, who revelled in the chambers above, while his son was perishing in the dungeons below. In the north- west corner of the court, a passage leads through the tower to the edge of a chasm in the rock, over which a draw-bridge led to the court of the new castle. With the exception of one or two outer rooms, and of a narrow chimney-stalk of the main tower, this part of the building is now a heap of rubbish, presenting a singular contrast to the older walls, which are nearly entire. This decay must be ascribed to a defect in the foundation, which seems to have been built with clay. The superstructure being cemented with lime, fell almost in one mass into the hollow between the castle and the mainland, and still shows the sides of several arches of very strong masonry prostrate on the ground. The tower of this part of the castle was not nearly so lofty as that of the other; but much more attention had evidently been paid in the construction of it to internal finishing. Access was obtained from the mainland by a draw-bridge over au WICK. 141 artificial ditch across the neck of the peninsula, through an arched passage into the court. The situation of this castle is naturally strong, and its occu^ pants could have set at defiance assailants armed with the weapons of ancient days. A garrison could not have been pressed by fa^ mine, so long as they commanded the sea, for they could always obtain provisions through the secret passage, and the goe would afford secure accommodation for such small craft as they might employ for trafiic with the neighbouring shores. . In 1606, George the Wicked, Earl of Caithness, obtained an act of Parliament changing the old name of Girnigoe into thai of SiuQlair. Both names, however, are applied to the ruins, which are always called Castles Sinclair and Girnigoe, the latter name being applied to the more ancient portion. A drawing, was taken of these castles by Daniell, before Castle Sinclair became so rui* nous as it now is. The tower of Ackergill, anciently written Aikrigill, which stands on the bosom of the Bay of Keiss, is a noble and impres* sive structure. It is perfectly rectangular, eighty-two feet ia height, and battlemented. The walls are extremely massive, up- wards of thirteen feet in thickness ; and the whole building is ve- nerably grey with the hoar of great antiquity. It is in excellent repair ; and is at present the residence of the Honourable George Dunbar, Master of Duffus, to whose father it and the Castles Sinclair and Girnigoe belong. By whom, or at what time, the tower of Ackergill was erected, is altogether unknown. The lands of Ackergill belonged to Morar na Shien, with whose daughter Marietta they went into the pos- session of the Keiths, and, after passing through the hands of the Sinclairs and others, came at last into the family of Duffus. On the northern side of Keiss Bay stand the ruins of the Castle of Keiss, opposite the Castles Sinclair and Girnigoe. It con- sists at present of the remains of a paltry tower. This stronghold was formerly called the Fortalice of Radder. It anciently belonged to the Earls of Caithness. At present, it is the property of Kenneth Macleay, Esq. of Newmore and Keiss^ Near Thrumster House is a standing-stone, respecting which there is an ancient tradition in this district, that Margaret the Maiden of Norway, heiress of the Scottish Crown, was wrecked on this coast on her return to Scotland, and buried under the " Standinor-Stane o' Thrumster." o 142 CA1THNESS*SHIRE. The only other antiquity worth noticing, is that of the Sinclairs* Aisle, in the church-yard, opposite the door of the Parish Church. It is in the form of a small but elegant chapel. The walls are entire, but roofless. It was built by that Earl George who mur- dered his own son in the vaults of the Castle of Gimigoe. * An old image of St Fergus, the tutelary saint of the parish in Popish times, habited in a monkish dress, and standing on some sort of animal, which formerly lay in the church, has now been placed in the jail. Its features are altogether effaced. Modem Buildings. — The chief of these is the parish Church. This is a large substantial fabric of the very plainest Gothic, built of blue flagstone, with freestone at the comers, doors, and win- dows, and on the spire. It is imposing from its size. The Town and County Hall is likewise of flagstone, ornamented in front with freestone, and a belfry like a cupola. The hall itself is a large and well-proportioned room. Its walls are adorned with well executed portraits of the late Earl of Caithness ; the late Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster; James Traill, Esq. of Rattar; and Kenneth Macleay, Esq. The Commercial Bank is of freestone, with pillars of the Ionic order. The Congregational Chapel in Wick, the United Secession, the Reformed Presbyterian, and the Popish chapels in Pulteneytown^ are very plain buildings. The Academy, built by the British Fishery Company, is a good and commodious building. A new church, in connection with the Church of Scotland, is about to be commenced in Pulteneytown. A Temperance Hall, cajpable of holding 1000 persons, is in the course of being erected in Wick, by the Total Abstinence Society of Wick and Pulteneytown. Hempriggs House, formerly Telstone, the seat of Lord Duffus, though of considerable antiquity, is a large and commodious man- sion. The House of Stirkoke, the s^at of William Home, Esq. of Scouthel ; the House of Thrumster, the seat of Robert Innes, Esq. ; and Rosebank, the property of Kenneth Macleay, Esq. of Newmore, — are excellent residences. There are also substantial houses at Ulbster, Tannach, Bilbster, Sibster, Harlan, Reiss, and Noss, and not a few in the burgh of Wick. The material of which these and all other stone erections in • On a stone in the aisle is the following inscription : ** Here within lyes in- tombed ane Noble and worthie man, John, Master Fiar of Caithness, of Clyth and Greenland, Knight, father of ane Noble and potent Lord, now George Earl of Caith- ne«8. Lord Sinclair of Berridale, who departed this life the 15th day of March 1576, being of age 45 years," 4 WICK. 143 the parish are composed, is the universal clayslate, or dark-blue flagstone of the county. This, when the stones are well selected and squared, makes a beautiful wall. Buildings of it, however, from the darkness of its hue, have a very sombre appearance- Many houses in Pulteneytown, and throughout the landward part of the parish, are built without lime. The wind sifts through their walls, and makes them very cold. The houses of many of the smaller tenants, and of the cottars, are built partly of stone and partly of turf. Some of them are of turf altogether, and are wretched hovels. But these very miserable huts are happily be- coming rare in the parish of Wick. II I. — Population. About the year 1695, there were in the parish of Wick 2000 catechisable persons. * The following table shows the state of the population at the periods specified. in ]707» the population amounted to . SQOO 1719, .... about 4000 1726, .... seoo 1755, .... a938 1792, 5000 1801 .... 9966 181 1 J there were 1044 fiimilies, 2394 malei, 2686 females. Total, 5080 1821, 1339 8263 3450 6713 1831. 1976 4830 5020 9850 In 1792, there were in the Burgh 200 families, and 1000 Individuals. 181 1, 232 do.— 489 males, 505 females. Total, 994 In LouisbuTgh, Pulteneytown, and Bankhead, 401 354 755 890 859 1749 Population in 1840, males 4325, females 5021. ToUl, 9346 Do, 1826, . . 7520 Increase in fourteen years, 1826 It is impossible to ascertain the yearly average of births, mar- riages, and deaths, seeing that there is no register of deaths; that the Dissenters do not register their children's births ; that great numbers of Churchmen are guilty of the same culpable negligence; and that a register of marriages solemnized within the Establish- ment, was commenced only about four months ago. , Lord Duffus is the only nobleman resident in the parish. His seat is Hemprigg House. His son, the Master of Duffus, dwells at Ackergill. People. — The Celts were, for anything that appears, aboriginal in the district. They were in early times invaded and subjugated by the Pechts, a Scandinavian race, whose descendants mtermingled their blood with that of their Celtic vassals. The Norwegian conquerors and " Records of Presbytery of Caitliness, Sd Oetober 1700. 144 CAITHNES^-SHIRE. colonists, a people cognate with the Pechts, infused a much larger portion of Gothic blood into the Celtico-Pechtish population of the district The changes made, a few years ago, on the estates of the Duchess- Countess of Sutherland, drove a great many Highlanders into Caithness, who found work and sustenance chiefly in the more comndercial districts of the county. This Celtic sup- ply is kept up by the herring fishery, which annually brings into Wick very great numbers of young Highlanders, several of whom every year settle in the parish. From all these causes it follows, that the present parishioners of Wick are an intermixture of the Celtic, Pechtish, Norwegian, and, latterly, again of the Celtic races. This is evident, both from the names and from the physical character, of the people. It is difficult to say whether the sur- names of Gothic or those of Gaelic origin predominate. Gaelic baptismal names are likewise very common. The physical cha- racter of the people also denotes their Celtico- Gothic origin. Though there are some, yet there are, remarkably few red or yel- low-haired persons in the parish. Their hair is generally black or very dark-brown, and their complexions correspondent. Their persons are taller and larger limbed than those of their Celtic neighbours, though not so tall nor large as those of unmingled Gothic descent. In general, their counteifances are rather round- ish than oval ; their eyes dark ; their teeth short, white and firmly set ; and their frames spare, but straight, alert, and sinewy. Many are very handsome. Language. — The language spoken over all the parish is, with exception of that of some Gaelic incomers, a dialect of the low- land Scottish. It is distinguished, however, by several peculiari- ties. Wherever the classical Scottish has wh^ the dialect of the parish of Wick has^; as^a^ for what, fan for whan ; and where- ever the Scottish has t/, this dialect has ee ; as seen for sune^ meen fqr muneyfeel tor fide. Ch at the beginning of words is softened into 5, or sh ; as, mrch for church ; shapel for chapel. Th at the beginning of words is often omitted. She^ her^ and hersKve almost invariably used for it and its. This seems a Gaelic idiom ; and the tendency to pronounce s and cA, as shy seems a relic of Gaelic pronunciation. Habits. — At all seasons of the year, whisky is drunk in consider- able quantities, but during the fishing season enormous potations arc indulged in. It may seem incredible, but it has been ascertained, 3 WICK. 145 that, during the six weeks of a successful fishing, not less thaa 500 gallons a day were consumed. Let it be remembered, how- ever, that at that period 10,000 strangers, as boatmen, gutters, &C. were crowded into the town of Wick. Of late years, the people have been more temperate. Snuffing is almost universal among the men, and both it and smoking are very common among the women. About L.3,500 a-year are spent in the parish of Wick on tobacco. Character, — The parishioners of Wick are shrewd and atten- tive to their own interest. Their shrewdness, however, sometimes degenerates into cunning. Unchastity, both in man and woman, is lamentably frequent, which appears from the records of the kirk- session to have been always the case. They possess, notwithstand- ing, many most estimable qualities. They are remarkable for natural afiection, and show much kindness to their poorer neigh- bours. No small respect is evinced by the commonalty for the ordinances of religion ; family worship is prevalent among them ; the Sabbath is much regarded; and their attendance on the preaching of the Gospel is most laudable. Smuggling is all but unknown, excepting between the fishers and the French fishing-boats during the season of the herring- fishery. Poaching is not frequent ; and there is not a pawnbroker in the parish. IV. — Industry. The state of agriculture in the parish of Wick, previously to 1790, was extremely curious, and its arrangements as hostile as they pos- sibly could be to all improvement. Each property was divided into townlands. In every townland there were what was called " the mains," which consisted of a farm, on which were a barn and a stack-yard. The proprietor retained the mains in his own hand. The remainder of the townland was divided into what were called penny-lands, halfpenny-lands, farthing-lands, and octos. These were measured out by shrewd countrymen, called land-riders, 'or more properly land-redders, for they did not ride. In accomplish- ing their work, they spaced six spaces as the breadth of a rig of corn- land, and 240 as the length. This they denominated a firlot-sowing of oats. This multiplied by four, the number of firlots in a boll, gave 5760 square spaces, being precisely the number of Scotch ells in a statute Scotch acre. The land-redders knew nothing about survey- ing, nor had ever heard of a chain, or of an acre ; yet it must be CAITHNESS. K. 146 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. plain, that, long before the memory of man, their measqrement must have been founded on actual mensuration by the chain. The grass-land, outfield, or in arable, was assigned in 6xed proportions to these different divisions ; and a certain rent, vary- ing in different townlands, was laid on the grass-land, and a cer- tain quantity of grain to be paid for the corn-land of these various penny, halfpenny, farthing, and octo lands. The townland of Papigoe, for instance, in the neighbourhood of the town of Wick, was divided into fifteen penny-lands, one halfpenny-land, and half an octo. Every penny-land paid eleven bolls of corn, or farm as it was called, and no money. The townland of Kilminister was red into thirty-six penny-lands, each one of which paid four bolls of farm, and L.5, 6s. 8d. Scots as rent of the grass-land. To render the state of matters still more opposed to all improvement, the custom of run-rig was common. This most barbarous cus- tom was said to have originated in times of universal and inces- sant feuds, as a preservative against one neighbour's setting fire to the field of another, and to make the whole townland equally anxious to resist an enemy in case of invasion. These penny-lands, &c., were let to small tenants, who, be- sides the rent already specified, yielded an infinite variety of minute services to the landlord. The tenants of each penny- land, for instance, had to bring out their own plough, fully equip- ped, early in spring, and plough half an acre of oat-land in the mains, — to send a man to sow the seed, — to send their harrows and har- row the ground,— to send two persons to carry on the horses' backs, for there was not a cart in all the parish, the manure in straw baskets, called caizies, for the bear-land, — to lay the manure on, — to send a plough and till the bear-land, — to sow the seed,— to harrow it with their own harrows : in summer, to mow the na- tural grass, — to make it into hay, — to cart it, — to carry it to the yard with their own carts, — to build it into stacks, — to send a per- son to weed the corn, — to cast 400 feal for building houses, and 300 divots for thatching them : in harvest, to cut down a certain quantity of corn, — to carry it, and build it in the stack-yard, — to furnish a certain number of winlins to thatch the mains' stacks, a certain quantity of drawn straw to thatch the mains' houses, and a certain quantity of simmins^ that is, plaited straw-ropes, to bind down the thatch, — to thrash a certain quantity of corn in the barn, — to dry it in the kiln, — to carry it to the mill, — to carry the meal thence to the girnel, and to ship it on board for exportation, WICK. 14? — to carry one letter in rotation to any person in Caithness, — to give a certain portion of peats, — to dress a certain quantit;y of lint, — to winter a certain number of cattle — to pay one fat lamb, two geese, hens, chickens, eggs, &c &c. The land-redders laid ofiF to each penny-land such a proportion of arable land as they thought would sow twelve bolls of small oats, or eight bolls of bear. Of the natural grass-land assigned to each penny-land the tenant had exclusive possession only till the corn was off the ground, when the whole again became common till the next spring. Instead of being encouraged to take in and imprpve any part of the outfield- land, the tenants were expressly debarred from doing so, or, in the country phrase, corrupting the leases, and were prohibited from cultivating any more than the portion of corn-land which had been ridden ofi" to them* ' The state of agriculture was what might have been expected from such wretched arrangements. There was not a cart in the whole county. Not a potato, nor a turnip, nor sown grass was known. No rotation of cropping was observed, except that the arable land was always alternately in oats and bear, the .manure being invariably put to the bear»crop. Not a drain was dug; and not a fence was to be seen except about a field or two round the proprietors* houses. This extraordinary mode of farming went on without any change till 1790. In 1782, Sir Benjamin Dunbar, the present Lord Duffus, succeeded his father. He found all the townlands on the whole of his extensive estates in Wick, comprising the half of the parish, under lease to middle- men, who paid him only the money rent payable by the small tenant for the orrass-land, and 6s. 8d. for each boll of eight stone and a half, paid by them for the corn- land. Thus the middle-men had the mains of each townland, and the services of the subtenantry free. Sir Benjamin, aware of what was passing in other countries, determined to put an end to this wretched system, which had immemorially prevailed. Having as« certained on what principles the land-redders divided and appor-* tioned the land, he had the whole of his numerous townlands measured with the chain, abolished the middlemen, converted all the services of the tenants into money, and granted them leases at a fixed rent The result of this enlightened procedure was most advantageous. Tillage was extended, better modes of cul- tivation were introduced, land was improved, the rental of the pro- prietor increased, while the tenantry were delivered from their 148 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. former degrading vassalage, and their comfort and respectability greatly promoted. When Sir Benjamin Dunbar came into pos- session of his estate, there were but a very few farm-houses on it built with stone ; now, there are very few, if indeed any, built of turf. The great improvement of land within the parish of Wick may be seen from the following statement. In 1666, the valued rent of the parish was L.6977, 6s. 8d. Scots. In the corrected rental of last ceutiiry, it stood thus : or the landward part of the parish, . L.6870 2 Of the burgh, . . 166 13 4 Toul, . L.65d6 13 6 Scots. In 1700, the real rent was L.1000 Sterling. In 1728, the vic- tual beintr converted at L.4, ds. 4d. Scot^, it was L. 13,659, IDs. lOd. Scots, equal to L.1138, 5s, lOd. Sterling. In 1 830, the real rent of the landward part of the parish was, L. 12,000 burgh of Wick, L.3544 9 Louisburgh and Blaekrock, 1250 Stazigoe, Broadhaven, and Papigoe, . 1834 2 Pultencytown, . 7333 13 Banks and Bankhead, 251 14,213 4 Total in Sterling money, . L.26,21d 4 As to particular estates ; in 1753, the rental of Hempriggs was, L.642 2 3 Ulbster, . 94 8 in 1804, the rental of Thrumster, . 180 in 1814, Stirkoke, . 611 Ulbster, . . 214 3 in 1830, Hempriggs, exclusively of Pulteneytown, was 5607 18 6 Stirkoke, . 1834 Thrumster, . 947 Ulbster, . . 493 In 1792, the rent of the best land ranged from 10s. to 15s. per acre. In all the parish at that period, there were of sown grass only 12 or 14 acres at Hempriggs, 8 in possession of the minister, and a few patches between Wick and Staxigoe. There was not a cart in the parish, the ploughs were of the very rudest description, drawn by three or four worthless horses, with, perhaps, a couple of cows to assist, a lad tugging them on before, and a man holding the single stilt behind. Such a phenomenon may yet indeed be seen, even in 1841. The commenced improvement of the dis- trict, however, had already beneficially affected the wages of la- bour and the price of provisions. In 1792, ploughmen, who had, some years before, had no more than from Ids. 4d. to 18s. the half year, got from L.1 to L.1, 8s. ; women-servants, who had, for the half year, had from 6s. 8d. got from L.1, to L. 1, 4s.; day- WICK. 149 labourers got from 6d. to lOd. a day; women were hired for the harvest at 6d. a day and a bannock ; and domestic servants had raised their half-yearly wages from 6s. Sd. to 13s. Provisions brought the following prices : those which had sold at Id. per pound rose to 2d. ; hens fetched 3^d, a piece ; cocks dd. ; and chickens 1^. ; eggs were Id. per dozen; geese, which had sold at 8d a piece, brought Is. 6d. ; and corn, which, in 1762, had sold at from 5s. to 8s. a boll, brought in 1792, from 10s. to 18s. In 1840, the average rent of arable land was from L. I, 5s. to L.1, 10s. an acre. A ploughman got for the half year L. 4, lOs. and victuals ; a woman for the same term L. 1, 10s. and victuals ; day-labourers earned in summer from Is. 6d. a day, to 2s. ; in winter, about 2s. ; women in summer, 8d. a day ; in winter, 6d. ; men got as harvest fee, L. 1, 10s., with a weekly allowance of four- teen pounds of meal ; and women L.1, with a weekly allowance of twelve pounds. Wool brought from L. 1, 4s. to L.1, 68. a stone. The price of mason- work from L.1, 15s. to L.2 per rood ; and of three feet dikes from Is. 2d. to Is. dd. a yard. A good cart brought from L.10 to L.l 1 ; and an iron plough, L. 3, 10s. Bear, on an average of the last five years, brought L.1, 4s. per quarter; and oats, L.1, Is. ; potatoes were 12s. per boll; turnips, L. 5 per acre ; and hay was about 6d. per stone. In 1 840, the price of oat- meal was 15s. per boll ; of bear-meal, 12s. per boll ; of beef per pound, 4^d. ; of fowls, from 6d. to 9d. a piece ; and of eggs per dozen, about 4d. The average rent of grazing for the year is at the rate of L.6 per ox or cow; and of L.1 per sheep on inland, and of 8s. on moory patsure. Live-Stock. — Of cattle there are two breeds. In the Jirst place, the pure Highland, which has been much improved of late years by the introduction of bulls and breeding cows, selected from the best Highland stocks in Scotland. Secondly^ crosses from the short-horned bull and Highland cows have been introduced, and answer well, especially for feeding, as they are brought at an early age to a great size and weight ; and, since the introduction of steam conveyance, can be conveniently sent to the southern or metropo- litan markets. The common breed of sheep is the Cheviot. This is crossed by the Leicester tup ; and the cross thrives remarkably well. These sorts of stock are the most profitable, taken together with the present improved system of agriculture and rotation of crops. Both sheep and cattle, indeed, are in such a forward state of improvement, as to be capable of being brought into competition 160 ' CAITHNKSS-SHIUE. with those of the southern districts, and of late years have carried off several premiums at the Highland Society's shows. In 1833, there were 12,375 acres under the plough* Very great additions have since been made to this amount Extensive inroads are made upon the waste lands every year. In reclaiming waste land, it is ploughed and fallowed for one or more years, as the soil may require, in order to pulverize it. Then lime is laid on the ground at the rate of from thirty to forty bolls, or marl from eighty to 100 bolls an acre. The ground having been thus pre- pared, is sown with white crop, and afterwards with turnips, oats, and grass, each year in succession. A vast extent of waste land has been reclaimed under this system. Thorough draining is indispensable to the improvement of land in the parish of Wick. Furrow-draining has lately been intro- duced, but has not yet been extensively practised. The most ad- vantageous rotation of crops is the six-shift. This is chiefly followed on the larger farms. On these, also, the fields are generally en- closed either with ditches, stone walls, or quickset hedges, which, in many places, with pains bestowed on them, thrive very well. The value of the whole produce from agriculture in 1833 wa» L. 37,120, of which about L. 34,418 were for grain, &c There is no account of the value of the live-stock at any period. Of the smaller farmers, the younger and more active follow the larger as closely as their limited means will allow : but still it must be confessed, that a considerable number lag behind, and, from want of skill, capital, or activity, plod on in very nearly the system observfed by their forefathers. It would appear, indeed, that a very great number of the farms are much too small. They do not afford employment all the year round to the farmer and his gar^ rons. He thus is obliged to drive peats into Wick, or at times to work at day's-wages to the larger farmers, or at any other kind of employment that he can fall in with. Many of them betake themselves to the sea in the fishing-season. Their means are scanty ; their education is therefore often very limited ; their houses are bad ; and their children grow up and have their habits formed in total ignorance of what, in the southern parts of Scot- land, are reckoned necessaries of life ; and this state of matters, without any desire of improvement, is thus, in numerous instances, perpetuated from father to son. It might, perhaps, ultimately be well for the population of this district, if those numerous insignifi- cant patches of land were laid together, and formed into farms WICK. • 151 of from L.dO to L.lOO of annual rent, taking care that there should be the greater number at the smaller rent between L.dO and L.60. The state of capital and the physical character of the district appa« rentiy point out this as a desirable arrangement. In effectingit, how- ever, very much tenderness ought to be shown. All great changes ought to be gradual. The viofent and extensive ejection of small tenants, not having the means of supporting themselves and fami* lies till other sources of support are discovered and made availabloi always occasions an amount of suffering, that can neither be com« pensated nor atoned for by any consequent agricultural improve- ments. Lea}te8. — At present, leases are given, varying from fourteen to twenty years in duration. If leases are not taken too high, they plainly form a great encouragement to the tenant. But they like- wise are as evidently beneficial to the landlord. The tenant is induced to lay out both capital and labour in improving his farm^ by which means the landlord's estate is improved. The relation^ indeed, of landlord and tenant involves many reciprocal advantages, obligations, and duties. The comfort of the landlord and his prosperity will be deeply involved in the character, comfort, and prosperity of his tenantry. He should, therefore, endeavour to store his estates not only with the best cattle, but with the best men. It is as much his interest as his duty to promote, both by precept and example, Christianity on his estates. This would be the parent of all improvement. God has placed the heritors of Scotland in most responsible situations. A Christian landlord is an unspeakable blessing to all under his influence, and, next to an unchristian minister, an unchristian heritorship is about the great- est curse that can befall a parish. Fisheries. — There is a small salmon-fishery in the Bay and River of Wick. Probably about 150 men are engaged all the year round in the white-fishery, on the coasts of the parish. This, however, is of v^ry trifling importance indeed, in compari* son of the herring-fishery, which is carried on to a great extent in this district. From time immemorial vast shoals of herrings have frequented the coast They were, however, in ancient days, almost completely neglected. For nearly 200 years the people contented themselves with catching a few fish on rude iron hooks, and proceed* ing with that excellent bait to the cod-fishing. About the beginning of the eighteenth century, nets began to be used. Some time after- wards, the attention of Government was directed to the fishery, and 152 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. bounties were offered for its encouragement In ITG?, John Soth* erland of Wester, John Anderson of Wick, and Alexander Mil- ler of Staxigoe, fitted out two sloops on the bounty, which, how- ever, by some informality, they lost Next year, they fitted out one sloop again, fished successfully, and, though with some difficulty, recovered the bounty. This adventure not having been very en- couraging, their ardour abated for some years ; but the place of rendezvous having been at last altered, the herring-fishery there- after annuallv increased. Adventurers came from Aberdeen, and from the Orkneys, and established the fishing at Staxigoe, and took leases of 99 years' duration, for the purpose of building stores and houses for the curing of red-herring. Those enterprising fish- curers employed boats and crews from Avoch and the neighbouring towns, on the southern side of the Moray Frith ; but these fisher- men never went farther from the shore in search of fish than a mile or two, when, if they did not find any, they concluded that none were on the coast. In 1786, the British Society for extend- ing the Fisheries, and improving the sea-coasts of the Kingdom, was incorporated by Act of Parliament. This incorporation great- ly promoted the fishery. A great number of boats and crews from the Frith of Forth began to come northwards to the fishing, and the crews, being more adventurous, sought for the fish at the dis- tance of ten or twelve miles from the shore, with most encourag- ing success. In 1782, 363 barrels of white herring were export- ed. In 1790, there were at Wick 32 boats, measuring 1610 tons, on the bounty. That year, there were 10,514 barrels of white, and above 2000 of red-herrings exported, besides about 700, es- timated to have been consumed in the county. In 1808, the British Fishing Society, incorporated, as has been mentioned, in 1786, commenced their establishment of Pulteneytown, by making a harbour for the accommodation of boats and shipping, and by granting feus in perpetuity for building on liberal terms. In 1809, commissioners were appointed by Act of Parliament, for the pur- pose of promoting and regulating this branch of national industry. Under improved methods of curing, introduced by the commis- sioners, and an additional bounty granted by Parliament in 1815, the fishery increased so rapidly, that, in 1824, the British Fishery Society commenced the construction of an outer harbour, which, having been finished, rendered the port both safe and commodious. This measure consolidated the prosperity of the Wick herring- ^ICK. 153 fishery. It now could afford to lose the Parliamentary bounties, which, in 1 830, were withdrawn. The shoals of herrings appear on the coast about the middle of July, when the 6shing is immediately begun. It is continued for eight or ten weeks. The fishing stations within the parish are at Keiss, Staxigoe, Broadhaven, Wick, and Sarclet. The average annual number of boats employed for the last ten years is about 900 ; and the average annual quantity of fish taken for the last twenty years is 88,500 barrels. The price of a boat with its fleet of nets and everything complete, is from L.140 to L.I50 Sterling. Each boat on an average generally fishes from 100 to 150 crans, at a price of from 10s. to 12s. per cran. A barrel of cured herrings costs L.I. The following table shows the state of the herring-fishery at Wick in 1840: Native boats, . 428 Strange boats, . 837 Total of boau. 765 Crews of said boats. Coopers, Women employed as gutters, &c. Labourers, . '. • CarterSf . . . Other labourers employed about the fishing. Seamen in coasting vessels (supposed), Fish-curers entered, d,82B 265 2,175 46 127 150 1,200 91 Total of persons employed. 7,882 Total of barrels cured, 63,495 Barrels bung.packed, branded. 10,333 Barrels exported to Ireland, To other places in Europe, 51,250 4,461 Total of barrels exported, 55,711 The herring-fishery has in a very rapid manner increased the population, and augmented the rental of the parish, and the pe- cuniary resources of many of the parishioners ; but whether it has added to the happiness and comfort of the people at large, may well foe questioned. If it has increased the wealth, it has also increased the wickedness of the district ; and any one acquaint- ed with the sources of happiness well knows that *' a man's life consisteth not in the abundance of the things which he pos- sesseth." Very great care was taken to promote the numbers and success of the fishers of herrings, but little or no care to pro- mote either the number or success of the fishers of men. The 154 CAITHNES9-SUIRE. result which invariably follows such conduct has ensued. The population rapidly increased ; rents, wages, and prices rose ; build- ings were erected, and all things seemed prosperous. But there was a worm in this blossom of happiness. The means of grace and of pastoral superintendence were not extended* Multitudes escaped altogether beyond their blissful influence. No care was taken of the 10,000 young strangers of both sexes who were crowded together with the inhabitants within the narrow limits of Wick during the six principal weeks of the fishing, exposed to tirink and numerous other temptations. The consequences have been such, as any one acquainted with the propensities of fallea humanity might easily have foreseen ; and results have verified the declaration of the prophet, that " the ungodly who earneth wages, earneth wages to put them into a bag full of holes.*^ A people cannot be exalted without righteousness, and with right- eousness they cannot be degraded ; but morality cannot be com- municated nor upheld without the full and abundant administra- tion of the Gospel. When will legislators, heritors, and merchants be convinced of this ? Mamifactures. — There are in Wick and Pulteneytown four rope-works, which employ, besides the masters, 75 men, with occasional hands. The first of these commenced in 1820. All the rope which they produce is consumed in this port. There is one distillery and brewery, which employs 12 men ; one meal and barley-mill, which employs 5 ; four saw-mills, three of which are driven by steam and one by water, employ 26 hands. A manu- factory of pavement for exportation employs from 60 to 80 work- men. There is a ship-building yard, commenced in 1815, with always one or two vessels on the stocks, employing about 50 ship- wrights. Twelve boat-building yards employ from 70 to 80, who launch from 80 to 100 boats annually. There has lately been established in Pulteneytown an iron-foundery, which gives em- ployment to from 6 to 8 men, and promises to be prosperous* A Gas Company was formed in 1840, whose works are iti the course of being erected ; and it is to be hoped, that, by another winter, both Wick and Pulteneytown will be lighted with gas. There are 266 coopers in the parish. The principal, almost, in- deed, the sole occupation of females in and about the towns, is the spinning of yarn and making it into nets for the herring-fishing. At this they can earn the miserable pittance of only 24d. or dd. a day. WICK. 155 Navigation. — A little trade has been carried on from the port of Wick from very early times. In 1588, Alexander Earl of Sutherland burnt the town of Wick, and spoiled the ship and plundered the goods of Andrew Wardlaw, a merchant. In 1840, twenty-one ships were registered at the port of Wick, amounting to 1154 tons. The tonnage of the ships which have entered this port for the last twenty years may have been about 30,000 tons annually ; and the yearly number of sailors a'bout 3000. A steam-boat began to run from Wick to Leith in 1833, once a fortnight. The Sovereign steam-boat of 200 horse-power, which commences for the season in March, and is laid up in November, makes a voyage, once a week, between Lerwick, Kirkwall, Wick, Aberdeen and Leith. It carries passengers, stock, and goods ; and has been of the greatest advantage, not to Wick only, but to Caithness, Orkney, and Shetland. Two smacks ply, each once a fortnight, between and Leith. There is at Wick a Chamber of Commerce. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Town. — Wick is the market-town of this parish. It is a place of great antiquity ; and was at the request of the Earl of Caithness, of whose earldom it formed a part, erected into a royal burgh on the 25th of September 1589. The superiority of it has been bought and sold by the Sinclairs of Caithness, the Glenor- chys, the Sinclairs of Ulbster, and the Sutherlands ; but the Re- form Bill has reduced this once potential privilege to feebleness. It is, therefore, now little valued. The set of the burgh con<» sists of a provost, two bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and seven councillors. There are no corporations or crafts in this burgh. At Michaelmas 1755, the number of burgesses amount- ed to 53; at the same term in 1801, to 29; and in 1832, when the roll was last made up, to 66, About 15 have since been ad* ded. The dues payable on the admission of a burgess amount to 1^4, 4s. In 1660, the customs were let at L.55 Scots; in 1686, at L.63, 10s. The ordinary revenue for 1840, was. Rent of customs, ... Do. of House in Bridge Street, • Do. of street manure^ Do. of curing stations, Receipts for freedom of trade and burgess dues, Feu-dutics, «... Total, L.ao 6 10 5 7 5 4 19 21 4 6 L.74 18 "^ 156 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. This may be considered as a fair average of the ordinary burghal revenues of Wick, for several years by-past. The expenditure b about L.70 a year. There is no debt. The records begin, " In the name of the Father, the Sone, and the Holy Ghoste. At the burgh of Weick, the sext day of Januarii, 1660 yeares." They are not voluminous, and are oc- cupied with ordinary burghal business. In 1 840, the population of Wick was. Males, 561 ; Females, 693; Total, 1254. The noinber of fiimilies was 900. There is no police. The land-tax of the royal burgh, recoverable from feuars aud traders, is L.ll, 14s. The rental amounts to L.2600. The church and parish school, the town and county buildings, and the jail, are within the royal burgh. The trade of Wick consists in the export of herring, and of live^ stock and grain, and of the import of such articles as the wants of the district require. Wick is the county town. The sheriff has held his ordinary court here since 1828, when the Court of Session decided in fa- vour of Wick, in the process of removal of the court from Thurso, where they had previously been held from time immemorial. The Custom-house establishment has also been removed hither from Thurso. The customs in 1839 amounted to L.20QS. A weekly market, well frequented, is held in Wick on Friday. Parliamentary Burgh. — The royal burgh of Wick, from the date of its erection to the Union, sent a commissioner to the Scot- tish Parliament At the Union, it was associated with Kirkwall, Dornock, Tain, and Dingwall, in the return of one member to the British House of Commons. By the Reform Act, Cromarty was united to this batch, the bounds of Wick as a Parliamen- tary burgh were enlarged, and it was constituted the returning burgh. The village of Louisburgh, built on leases of 99 years, from Lord Duffus, lies contiguously to the royal burgh of Wick, on the northern side ; and that of Pulteneytown, commenced in 1808^ by the British Fishery Society, is separated from the latter on the south by the bay, and united to it by a bridge of three arches, over the River of Wick. Wick, Louisburgh, and Pulteneytown, with the manse and lower glebe, Bankhead, and a few more other places included within the boundary^ compose the Parliamentary o WICK. 157 burgh of Wick. The number of proprietors of houses worth L.IO and upwards in the Parliamentary burgh is 181 ; of L. 10 house- holders, 233 ; and of voters, 257, of whom 88 are enrolled on pre- mises within the royal burgh. The rental of the Parliamentary burgh is L. 4770. In 1840, the population of the Parliamentary bui^h was as follows : Males. Females. Total. Of Wick, - 561 . 693 - 1254 Of Pulteneytown, &c. 1329 - 1680 . 2959 Of Loulsburgh, &c 170 . 209 - 379 Total, 2060 2532 4592 The number of families was. In Wick, - 300 In Pulteneytown, ^c. 683 In Louisburgh, &c. 80 The number of inhabited houses, 1578. Villages. — The village of Broad Haven, which is a fishing station with 170 inhabitants, is about a mile along the northern shore from Wick. A mile farther on, is that of Staxigoe, not far from. Castle Girnigoe, containing 261 inhabitants. It is a place of some antiquity. Two store-houses of the Earls of Caithness, built 250 years ago, are still standing there and in good order. They contain 4 meal-girnels, each girnel capable of holding 1000 bolls of meal ; and 4 lofts, each capable of containing 1 000 bolls of bear. These were necessary when rents were paid in kind. Staxigoe is another fishing station, with a tolerably good natural harbour for boats. The village of Sarclet, on the estate of Thrumster, lies about five miles to the south of Wick. It is situated on the top. of a small bank overhanging a small cove, which, at considerable expense, has been converted into a pretty good harbour for fish- ing-boats. Means of Communication. — Wick is a post-town. In 1829 the revenue of the post-office amounted to L.1200 a-year. A daily mail-coach from Thurso passes through the town to the south in the morning, 'and another from the south through the town to Thurso at night. The mail-coach commenced to run on the 15th of July 1819. A daily post-gig runs between Wick and Huna, from which latter place the letters for Orkney are dis- patched twice a-week. A steam-boat of 200 horse-power pliea once a-week, from March till November, between Lerwick, Kirk- wall, Wick| Aberdeen, and Leith. The Huna road, entering the parish from the north at Nybster^ 158 CAITIINESS-SHIRC. passes through Keiss, and close to the lower end of the Loch of Wester, near which it is joined by the new line from Bower. Crossing the Water of Wester by a bridge of two arches, this road joins the one from Castleton, at a short distance to the west of the House of Keiss. Its length within the parish is seven miles, and that of the new Bower road nearly four; the road from Castleton, in the parish of Olrig, enters the parish of Wick at Kirk, and, cross* ing the Moss of Kilminister, where there are two or three trifling bridges, continues in a pretty straight line till it approaches the town, where it bends to the south, and, passing the manse and the church, joins the main-street of Wick, at a distance from Kirk of eight miles. Before it reaches the manse, it is joined from the west by the road from Wattin through Sibster-Wick. This road mea- sures seven miles, and is not yet completed through the townland of Winless. From the Castleton road a branch is sent through Lfouisburgh along the coast- by Papigoe and Broad Haven to Staxigoe, a distance of about two miles. The Parliamentary road from Thurso enters the parish of Wick three-quarters of a mile to the west of Bilbster House, and runs in a tolerably straight line down the south side of the River of Wick, till it joins the south road at Rosebank, a distance of six miles and a half. The south road, on passing from the town, crosses the river of Wick on a plain stone bridge of three arches, which cost L.1700, and runs io a winding direction through the estates of Hempriggs, Tbrum- ster, and Ulbster, till it leaves the parish at the Mission House of Bruan, a distance of about eight miles. A new county road leaves the north Parliamentary road at Stirkoke, and, passing through Tan- nach, joins the south Parliamentary road at Thrumster, a distance of about four miles and a half. A road runs from the south Parlia- mentary road to Sarclet, a distance of about two miles. All these roads are of the very best description. The whole extent of road in the parish is very nearly fifty miles, of which the Parliamentary line measures fourteen. Harbours. — The harbourets of Sarclet, Broad Haven, and Staxigoe, have already been mentioned. A small harbour has been made at Keiss. The only harbour originally on the coast of this parish, was the mouth of the River of Wick, into which the M'Farlan MS. says, that vessels of between thirty and forty lasts burden could enter. In 1810, the British Fishery Society com- pleted a harbour in the Bay of Wick, at an expense of L. 14,000, of which L.8500 were defrayed by Government, capable of con- WICK. 159 taining 100 decked vessels. From the great increase of trade consequent on the prosperity of the herring-fishery, this harbour soon became quite inadequate, and a new one was planned, and in 1831 completed, at an expense of L. 40,000. It is unhappily exposed to the swell of the sea, which rolls in from the mouth of the bay. The best. place, it is said, for a harbour on the eastern coast of Caithness, is at Sinclair's Bay, which is a part of the Bay of Keiss between Ackergill and Castle Gimigoe. Ecclesiastical State. — We learn from Tertullian that, before his time, Christianity was planted in parts of Britain which had been inaccessible to the Roman arms. There is good reason for be^^ lieving that, before this period, tlie Romans had a settlement to the north of the Grampians, of which Pteroton, hodiernally Inverness, was the capital. The Christian churches to which Tertullian alhides were collected from among the Celtic tribes, who seem to have occupied, in these ancient days, the whole of modern Scotland, up to the Pentland Frith. Their ministe>s were styled Culdees, from Cuildich, dwellers in remote or sequestered places : and it was aU ways asserted by them, that their church had been planted by the immediate disciples of the Apostle John. The Pechts, who had invaded and subjugated the Celts, were heathens. The seat of their king was near Inverness, and their kingdom stretched north- wards to the Pentland Frith. In 566, ths Pechtish sovereign, Brudy II. was converted and baptized by Colum, Abbot or Presi- dent of the Presbyterian College of lona. At the Pechtish court Colum met an Orcadian prince, to whose protection, at the Culdee's request, Brudy recommended certain missionaries in Orkney. Presbyterian ministers, or Culdees from lona, styled also l-colum-killi, the Island of Colum of the Cells, in allusion to the numerous churches which he planted, and from others of their colleges, were speedily settled over all the west and north of Scotland. The places of their residence are generally denot- ed by the prefix AtV, which evidently signified a Culdean church ; as Kilmarnock, Kildonan, &c. One of them had jirobably his re- sidence within the parish of Wick, at a place called Kilminister, which, in pronunciation, is often shortened into Kilminster, Kilim^' ster, and Kilmster. In the very middle of the Moss of Kilminister are the ruins of a building, called unto this day the Kirk o' Moss. A causeway, the traces of which are yet distinctly visible, led through the deep and otherwise impassable bog to this ancient place of 160 CAITI1NESS*SHIRE. worship, which stood on a little knoll. This situation correspond-^ ed exactly with the predilection of the Culdees, who loved, in these ferocious times, remote and sequestered residences, whence, in-^ deed, they had their distinctive appellation. Presbyterianism, derived from the scriptures and Apostolic days, continued for ages the form of ecclesiastical government in the Scottish Church, unmixed with Prelacy till 909, when Constantine the Third appointed Kellach bishop of St Andrews. At this pe- riod, the Norwegians established themselves in Caithness, and pa- tronized the heathen deities. About 100 vears afterwards, how- ever, the Scandinavian idolatry gave place to the Romish ; the Norsemen of Caithness and Orkney having been converted by, certain papal ecclesiastics, backed'by the sword of Olaf King of Norway. Malcolm Canmore, who began to reign in 1066, found- ed the prelature of Caithness, comprehending Caithness and Su- therland, and made Dar, one of his favourites, the prelate. Po- pery flourished apace within the diocese. Besides the Kirk of Wick, there were within the bounds of the parish, the Kirk of Ulbster, dedicated to St Martin; the Kirk of Thrumster ; the Kirk of Hauster, dedicated to St Cuthbert ; the Kirk of St Ninian, at the Head of Wick ; St Mary's Kirk at Sibster ; the Kirk of St Tears, dedicated to the Holy Innocents, near Ackergill; the Kirk of Moss, latterly dedicated to St Duthoc ; the Kirk of Keiss ; and the Kirk of Strubster. The Kirk of Ulbster is yet entire, and has been converted into a family tomb. Several of the burial- places attached to the other kirks are yet in use. Around the ruins of the Kirk of Moss, there are about twelve acres, said to have been under tillage so late as 1689. In Caithness, the progress of the Reformation was very slow. Only Wick and Thurso had ministers in 1567 ; the rest of the pa- rishes of the county were supplied by readers and exhorters. In 1576, Dunnet, Halkirk, and Wick had each a minister and a reader. The other parishes appear to have been entirely desti- tute of teachers. Wick, apparently, was visited soon afterwards with a long vacancy. The people, in these circumstances, con- tinued attached to popish superstition. They were accustomed to visit the chapels with which the parish abounded, and pay their devotions to the stone images of their tutelary saints and saintesses. Dr Richard Mercheston, minister of Bower in 1613, exerted him- self to suppress this atrocious and debasing sin, and procured the demolition of the stone images. On his return homewards, he was drowned by the blind and infuriated idolaters. It was given out. WICK. 161 however^ that it was the saints who did it ; and that a lapideous saintess, whom he had cast down and broken to pieces, the day be- foroi was seen a*top of him in the water. The minister, however, and kirk-session were anxious to ptii an end to such humiliating superstitions, and the sessional records bear evidence of their zeal. But, notwithstanding all their exer- tions, hagiolatry still lurked in the parish of Wick. Within the ' memory of persons yet living, it was customary for people to visit the Chapel of St Tears on Innocents' day, and leave in it bread and cheese, as an offering to the souls of the children slain by Herod : but which the dog-keeper of a neighbouring gentleman used to take out and give to the hounds. Till within a ifew years, it was customary for all the inhabitants of Mirelandorn to visit the Kirk of Moss every Christmas before sunrise, placing on a stone, bread and cheese and a silver coin, which, as they alleged, disappeared in some mysterious way. There are still several holy lochs, especially one at Dunnet, to which people go from Wick, tmd, indeed, from all parts of Caithness, to be cured of their dis- eases* They cast a penny into the water, walk or are carried withershins around the loch, and return home. If they recover, their cure is ascribed to the mystic virtues of the Halie Loch ; and if they do not, their want of faith gets all the blame. The Kirk of Wick was in Popish times dedicated to St Fergus. It probably stood before the Reformation at Mount Hellie, or Halie, near the eastern end of the town. We have no account of the erection of the edifice in the present church-yard, of which the Sinclair Aisle and Dunbar Tomb are the only remnants ; but it must have been built before 1576. It was repaired in 1728, and again in 1752. A new church was erected at the close of the last century. This was found, soon after it was finished, to be very insecure. A new one became indispensable, which, after various delays, having been commenced, was at length finished in 1830, at an expense of L.4780, Ids. lO^d. The Right Honourable Lord DufTus is patron of the parish. Parish Church. — Standing at the west end of the burgh, the parish church is very conveniently situated for the great body of the parishioners. Excellent roads lead towards it in all directions. It is nine miles from Nybster, on the north ; seven from Bruan, on the south ; seven and a-half from Mirelandorn, on the west; and about a mile from the Moray Frith, on the east It is not inconveniently situated for the great bulk of the parishioners ; but CAITHNESS. L 162 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. those of Mirelandorn, Winless, and Bilbster, amounting to 869 souls, while about seven miles from the church of Wick, are within two miles of that of Wattin. This mal-arrangement ought to be remedied. Allowing eighteen inches to a sitting, the church will conti^iD 1981 sitters. It is seated, however, to contain only 1835. All the seats are said to be free. The church is well attended. Though much too large for the comfort either of the minister or of the congregation, the church of Wick does not afford nearly sufficient accommodation for the population of the parish. This deficiency is in part supplied by the mission of Bruan, and the quoad sacra parish of Keiss. Mission of Bruan, — At first, this mission comprehended Ber- ridale and Bruan, at which places divine worship was celebrated alternately. Since a parliamentary church was erected at the for- mer place in 1826, the labours of the missionary have been con- fined to Bruan. The mission-house is situated in the parish of Wick, but just within the boundary which divides it from the parish of Latheron. The principal part of it was built in 1798, to which an aisle was subsequently added. It is a very plain thatched building, capable of accommodating 585 sitters. The manse, on which is a debt of L. 50, and glebe of four acres, are within the parish of Latheron. The ground was generously given by the family of Ulbster. The missionary district comprehends the extremity of the parish of Latheron in the southern extremity of the parish of Wick. In 1840, the population of the Latheron portion was 770; that of the Wick portion as follows : — Adherents of the Church, . 450 males, 491 females, toul 946 Seceders, 21 37 58 Independents, 10 14 24 Total, 481 542 1028 Almost all the inhabitants engage in fishing. The endowments of the mission consist of the manse and glebe, and L.25 Sterling annually, given by the Society in Scotland for Propagating Christian Knowledge. Seat-rents make up the mis- sionary's stipend to nearly L.100 a-year. But the district is very poor, and this latter source of income varies considerably. An additional endowment, even of L.60 a-year, would be an unspeak- able blessing to this important mission. Missionaries of Bruan.— I William Mackintosh, afterwards WICK. 1(>3 minister of Thurso ; 2. John McDonald, now minister of Ferrin- tosh; 3, Donald M*Gillivray, afterwards minister of Kilmallie; 4. Duncan M'Giliivray, now minister of Lairg; 6, William Su- therland, now in America; 6. George Davidson, now minister of Latheron ; 7. Archibald Cook, now minister of the North Church, Inverness ; 8. John Sinclair, A. M., present incumbent* Parish ofKeisSj quoad sacra. — The quoad sacra ^bx'i^h of Keiss was erected 1833, by authority of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland. It is composed of the northern extremity of Wick and of the southern extremity of Canisbay. The boundaries bave not yet been settled. It is understood, however, that the portion which belongs to Wick is bounded on the north and north- east by Canisbay ; on the north-west by Bower ; on the south by the southern ridge of the valley of Wester ; on the east by the sea. The Wick portion is five miles in length, and three miles and a-half in average breadth. The church and manse were built by Government in 1827, at a cost of L.1500* They are situated on a rising ground at the northern side of the bay of Keiss. Fronting the west, they com- mand an extensive view of the surrounding country. On the op- posite side of Keiss-bay, to the left, are seen the gloomy ruins of castles Sinclair and Girnigoe, with the bold and rugged promon- tory of Noss-Head. The view is bounded in the distance, by the mighty hills which separate Caithness from Sutherland, called • Morven, Skerubin, and Maiden-Paps. The population of that part of the parish of Keiss which is si- tuated within the civil parish of Canisbay is about 200 souls. The • part within the civil parish of Wick contains, of males, 362 ; fe- males, 447 ; total, 809 ; of these, 2 are Original Seceders, 12 Ana- baptists, 1 is a Reformed Presbyterian, and 1 a Methodist. The church of Keiss, which is situated within the civil parish of Wick, is capable of holding about 350 sitters. Were galleries erected, it would accommodate 200 more. There is an endow- ment of L.120 granted by Government. No glebe is attached to the living. There is a register of births and marriages kept by the session - clerk, which commenced after the passing of an act of the Gene- ral Assembly in 1833, constituting the Government churches pa- rishes quoad sacra% 164 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. Ministers of Keiss. — 1827, Thomas Jolly, now minister of Bowden ; 1829, Thomas Gun, present incumbent New Church at Pulteneytoum, — It is proposed still farther to increase church-accommodation for the parish of Wick, by the building of an Extension church in Pulteneytown, capable of ac- commodating 950 persons. Subscriptions amounting to L. 662, Ids. 6d. have been obtained for this most desirable object The foundation stone was laid on March 17, 1841. Missionary. — The Rev. David Mitchell has laboured assidu- ously, as missionary under the Church of Scotland in Pulteney- town, for about two years. He is supported by subscriptions* Notwithstanding the accommodation provided at Keiss and Bru- an, and that which is proposed to be'provided at Pulteneytown, the parish church of Wick, though large, is altogether insufficient for the population. After deducting the 809 included in the parish of Keiss, and the 1028 within the mission of Bnian, there are at present within the parish of Wick, quoad sacra, 1842 households^ comprising, of males, 3482 ; of females, 4082 ; total 7514. Tak- ing the number of those who ought to have church-accommoda- tion at the proportion of 55 to the 100, there ought to be church -accommodation for 4132; but the parish church can ac- commodate only 1835 ; thus leaving unaccommodated 2297 : Or if Pulteneytown ultimately shall be erected into a parish, then there will remain a population in the parish of Wick quoad sacra of 6505 souls. Of these there ought to be accommodated 3577 ; but the church accommodates only 1835, leaving unaccommodated 1742 : Or, making a liberal allowance for Dissenters of all de- scriptions, and stating their numbers at 2100, which will reduce the number of churchmen to 6414, of whom there ought to be accommodated 2977; but the church accommodates only 1835; thus leaving without accommodation 1142 souls. But the great deficiency lies in pastoral superintendence." It is altogether impossible for one single minister to superintend ef- fectively 7614 persons, or, making allowance for Dissenters, 5414. This will appear still more evident, when the prodigious influx of strangers, amounting to near 10,000, during the fishing season, is taken into consideration. There is not a parish in all broad Scotland, whence issues a more urgent call for help. We are numerous and we are poor; and, from the fisheries and other causes, are exposed to many and great temptations, WICK. 165 which nothing but the full, unfettered, and frequent ministrations of the glorious Gospel of the grace of God, carried honae on the heart by the power of the Holy Spirit, can effectively counteract. On December 6, 1840, the number of persons on the Commu- nion Roll was, of males, 132 ; of females, 355 ; total, 487. The Lord's Supper is dispensed twice a-year in this parish ; and the dispensation of it is attended by immense crowds of people from the neighbouring parishes. It is, indeed, a high solemnity. Manse. — In 1702, the manse was not habitable. In 1709, it was a heap of rubbish. In 1710, a house in the burgh was bought for a manse. In 1728, a manse was ordered to be built on the site of the original one, near the church-yard. The present manse, which stands in the glebe, a little to the west of the town, was erected in 1786. It is a plain but substantial building, and is capable, with some repairs, of being made a very comfortable re- sidence. The oflSce-houses, which are thatched, are ruinous. It is expected that they will speedily be rebuilt. Glebe. — The glebe consists of two parts ; the lower, of about 9 acres, in which the manse stands, and the upper, a mile to the w;est, on the north side of the River of Wick, about 30 acres. In 1836, the glebe was valued by the Commissioners of Religious Instruction at L. 50 a-year. Stipend. — In 1792, the stipend was L.97, 13s. 4d. ; in 1810, it was L.50, and 160 bolls of victual. At present it consists of 17 chalders, half oatmeal, half bear, payable at the fiar prices, and L. 1 of money. Teinds. — The teinds of this parish belong to the Crown. In 1836, the value of the unappropriated teind was L. 340, 9s. 4d. Ministers of Wick since the Reformation. — Andro Philp, be- fore 1567 ; Thomas Keir, before 1576 ; Alexander Merns, Reader at Wick ; Thomas Pruntoch ; John Annand, before 1636; 1638, David Allardice; 1638, John Smart, ejected in 1650, and afterwards minister of Dunnet; 1659, William Ged- des, ejected in 1675; 1676, Patrick Clunis, died in 1691 ; 1692, William Geddes, restored; 1701, Charles Keith, died in 1705; 1707, James Oliphant, died in 1726; 1727, James Ferme, died in 1760; 1762, James Scobie, died in 1764; 1765, William Sutherland, died in 1816; 1813, Robert Phin, died in 1840; J 840, Charles Thomson, the present incumbent. United Associate Seceders. — The congregation of these Dis- senters was established in 1 770. On the 21st of September 1836, according to their minister, the Rev. William Stewart, it amounted 166 * CAITHNESS-SHIUE. to 1000, of whom 810 were resident within the parish of Wick quoad sacra. According to the Rev. Robert Phin, minister of Wick, their numbers within the parish amounted at that date to 700. The chapel, which stands in Pulteneytown, was built in 1815, and a manse in 1825. There was, in 1836, a debt of L. 130 on the property. Allowing sixteen inches to the sitting, the chapel will contain 658 sitters. In 1836, the number of communicants was upwards of 200. The minister's stipend is L. 100 a-year, derived from seat-rents and collections, with a house add about half an acre of ground. Independents. — This congregation w.is established in 1790, in which year the chapel, which stands near Wick, was built. At six- teen inches each sitting, the chapel will hold 666 sitters. In 1838, there was a debt of L. 1 10 affecting the property. On the 21st of September 1836, the number of Independents resident in Wick quoad sacra was, according to the Rev. John Wiseman, then minister, at least 1000; according to the Rev. Robert Phin, minister of Wick, the number was 620. According to Mr Wise- man, the communicants were 129; according to. Mr Phin, tbey were about 100. Anabaptists. — The congregation was established in 1808. In 1836, the parishioners in the habit of attending were about 90: the number of communicants was then 29. They have no minister. Separatists. — The congregation was established in 1824. In 1836 their number amounted to 28; and the number of commu- nicants to 13. They have neither chapel nor minister. Papists. — The congregation was established in 1832. It does not exist but in the fishing-season. A chapel, capable of holding, at eighteen inches a sitting, 306 sitters, was built, in 1836, in Pul- teneytown. It is closed, and there is no priest, except during the fishing-season, — when a priest comes, the chapel is opened, and service is performed for those of the Romish persuasion, who, during that period, come to Wick from Ireland and the High- lands. Original Seceders. — The congregation was established in 1835. In 1836, from 60 to 80 persons were in the habit of attending worship. They have neither chapel nor minister. Reformed Presbyterians. — This congregation was established in 1836. The numbers in the parish amount to about 200; the communicants to 45. Their chapel in Pulteneytown was built WICK, 167 in 1839. It is capable of holding, on the ground-floor, about 380 sitters. The galleries are not yet erected. They have no minister. Wesleyan Methodists. — This congregation was established in 1837. Their numbers are not great , Education, — It was a favourite maxim with the Scottish Reform- ers, that there should be throughout the land a kirk and a minister for every 1000 inhabitants, and a school beside every kirk. The nobles and gentry, however, voted this a pious imagination, pil- laged the church, expended the plunder on their own pleasures, and left the poor to perish for lack of knowledge. But the mi- nisters of the Scottish church were Christians. They were not to be daunted by the hostility both of the land-owners and of the go- vernment, and by their unceasing exertions and untiring perse- verance, schools as well as churches were gradually planted and endowed in all the parishes of Scotland. Caithness, however, was long behind the rest of the country. In 1567, only Wick and Thurso had ministers ; the rest of the parishes were supplied with readers or exhorters. In 1576, Dun- net, Halkirk, and Wick had each a minister and a reader. The other parishes appear to have been altogether vacant. The dis- turbances and distresses caused in the seventeenth century by the Episcopalian intruders and persecutors, threw the country back into the Popish darkness and disorder out of which it had been rapidly emerging. In 1697, when the Presbytery of Caithness was, after the Persecution, reconstituted by the Commission of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, only Thurso, Dun- net, and Reay had ministers of the Presbyterian Church. Most of the parishes were vacant, amongst which was Wick. In one or two, there were Episcopalian incumbents, a sample of the men who had been intruded in the times of Episcopacy, scandalous in their lives, and opposed, or at least indiflerent to the promotion of either the religion or education of the people. The people were, in consequence, ill-educated. In 1701, when a call by the parish of Wick was moderated in to Charles Keith, the second minister of this parish after the Persecution, it is stated by the records of the session, that the call " was unanimously subscrived by the heri- tors and elders present, and consented to by a greater number who could not subscrive." The Presbytery were incessant and unwearied in their endea- vours to remedy this enormous evil, by the planting of schools ; 168 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. but their benevolent exertions were counteracted by the culpable opposition of the heritors. These Christian men, however, though discouraged, were not in despair. They persevered, and in 1706 Wick and Thurso were legally provided with schools. In the course of the next twenty years, the legal accommodations bad been obtained for Canisbay, Dunnet, Wattin, and Bower. The remaining parishes were not provided for a long time afterwards ; and even so late as 177:2, Reay was without a statutory school. The Presbytery, while they continued to urge upon the heritors the fulfilment of their duty, did not rest satisfied with shuffling and idle excuses, but did what in them lay to secure for their people the blessings of education, by inviting into their parishes qualified teachers, and affording them every encouragement, by bestowing on them the oflSce and emoluments of session*clerk, and by constant- ly urging on the people the necessity of contributing to their sup- port : nor did they desist till they had procured from the heritors a legal salary and accommodation for all the schoolmasters within their bounds. In 1759, the parish school of Wick had an income of 20 bolls of meal. It has now the maximum endowment. But those enlightened and indefatigable Christians were not content with securing for each parish a statutory school ; in ex- tensive parishes, they planted charity schools. Several were es- tablished in the parish of Wick as early as 1728. In April 12th 1763, there is presented to the kirk-session, a list of several heads of families in Ulbster, who, for the purpose of obtaining a school, oblige themselves to keep a certain number of scholars at it ; to pay regularly their quarterly fees, and what meal they bind them- selves for ; whereupon the session declare their willingness to give what assistance they can to a proper schoolmaster in that place, namely, L. 1, 5s. Sterling a-year, to make up for those scholars whose parents are unable to pay the quarterly fees. In 1792, five charity schools were in operation in the parish, but they have long ago been altogether discontinued. In 1765, the Rev. William Hallawall, who, for several years had been employed as an itinerant minister in Caithness, by the So- ciety for Propagating Christian Knowledge, but had latterly been chaplain to the Charity Workhouse of Edinburgh, and overseer of the children's education for more than twenty years, having << a peculiar regard for the inhabitants of that large and populous pa- rish of Wick, where I spent," says he, " a good part of n\y time in my younger years, with great satisfaction,*' mortified, in the WICK. 169 hands of the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, cer- tain property, from which L.21 were annually to be paid for en- dowing, with L.7 a-year, a school at Keiss; another at Noss; and a third at Ulbster. The heritors are to build school-houses and uphold them, and the Presbytery of Caithness to judge of the qualifications of the teachers. These schools were directed to be called ^^ Hallawall's Schools,'' by which name, however, they do not seem ever to have been known in the parish. Each of the schools receives from Hallawall's mortification, L.7, 10s. annually, and the same sum from the Society for Propagating Christian Know- ledge, which makes up their endowment to L. 1 5. a-year. A fe- male teacher at Ulbster is allowed L.6 a-year by this society. She teaches girls to read and sew. Besides these schools, there is one at Thrumster and another at Stirkoke on the General Assembly's scheihe. The proprietors of these estates have built houses, and allow so much land as an endowment, and the General Assembly grants L.25 a-year. There are at present 18 unendowed schools in the parish, of which 14 are in the town, and 5 in the country. Of these, there are two kept by school-mistresses within the quoad sacra parish of Keiss, one at Reiss, and another at Janetstown, both of which are kept by schoolmasters. Between the school at Reiss, and the Society's school at Keiss, the Kirk-session divides, in equal sums, L.3 a year, arising from a small mortification. Of the 14 unendowed schools in the town, seven are in Wick and Louisburgh, and seven in Pulteneytown. Of the seven in Wick, one is kept by a master, and six by schoolmistresses. Of the seven in Pulteneytown, three are kept by schoolmistresses, and four by schoolmasters. Besides all these, there is in Pulteneytown the Academy, an ex- cellent building, raised at a cost of L.1700, by the British So^ ciety for Promoting the Fisheries, who likewise contribute to the support of the two teachers. The following statement shows the average attendance of chil- dren in 1840 : Endowed schools. Boys. Parish school, 60 Keiss, - - . 49 Noss or Stazigoe, 45 Ulbster. 40 Thrumster, 36 Stirkoke, 46 Academy, Pulteneytown, 70 Girls. Total. 81 91 18 67 40 85 20 60 80 116 40 86 ao 90 Boys. Girls. Total. 46 15 61 16 13 29 60 12 72 164 57 . f£21 15 12 27 37 38 75 30 119 . 149 170 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. Unendowed schools kept by roasters. Rciss, ... Janetstown, One in Wick, Four in Pultencytown, Unendowed schools kept by mistresses. Broadhaven, Two in Keissy Six in Wick and Louisburgh, Total, 714 . 515 . 1229 A Female School of Industry is supported at Stirkoke by Mrs Home of Scouthel, where sewing is taught in all its branches. The school at Reiss, on which is dependent a large and poor district, ought to be endowed ; and a school should be planted in the populous district of Hempriggs. It is impossible to state the fees in the various unendowed schools. It may be said, however, that, in general, they are very low. In the Society's schools, the fees for reading are Is. 6d. a quarter. In the parish school, the fees per quarter are, for reading, 2s. ; for reading and writing, Ss. ; for reading, writing, and arithmetict 4s. ; with addition of geography, 4s. 6d. ; and for all these with the classics, 6s. A great number of the children are very imperfectly educated. Many do not get to school above* a quarter or two. Poverty is partly the cause of this ; but it must be confessed, that there is not so deep a conviction of the benefits of education as §very Christ* ian must desire to see. Sabbath Schools. — Of these there are, connected with the Church of Scotland, one in Wick, attended by about 250 scholars, and one in Pulteneytown, attended by about 320; and in the country, one at Keiss, one at Staxigoe, one at Reiss, one at Stir- koke, one at Thrumster, and one at Ulbster, which are attended by about the same number of scholars by which the schools at each of these places are attended during the week. Sabbath schools are also kept by several of the Dissenting bodies. Literature. — At Wick there is a library, containing about 1620 volumes. It was instituted in March 1826, and is the property of the subscribers. There are two reading-rooms, one at Pulteneytown, and the other at Wick; the former established in 1829, and the latter in 1840. Each of them receives about four daily London, and about the same number of provincial newspapers. The John o' Groat Journal, published at Wick, commenced in February 1836, and has had a uniform weekly circulation, up to the WICK. 171 present time, of 800 copies. About one-half of these is circulated throughout the four northern counties, and the other throughout Britain, and abroad. This Journal advocates what are usually called Liberal principles. The Northern Star, a fortnightly newspaper, commenced in November 1836, and was discontinued in May 1839. It advocat- ed what are usually called Conservative principles. About fifteen years ago, the parish was supplied by a flying-sta- tioner, who paid periodical visits to Wick. Now, there are two booksellers in the place, both of whom have a considerable busi- ness. Charitable and other Institutions. — The Caithness Agricultural Society, which was instituted about fifteen years ago, holds its an- nual meeting at Wick. This Society is respectably supported, and has been of the greatest advantage to those objects which are indicated by its name. There is at Wick a Chamber of Commerce, established about five years ago, which has conferred nnportant benefits on the trade of the place. . The Wick and Pulteneytown Total Abstinence Society was in- stituted in January 1840. It numbers about 700 members, and has been the means, it is reported, of reclaiming to sobriety several drunkards. Savinffs' Bank. — A savings' bank was opened at Wick in No- vember 1840. It is established for the benefit of Caithness, and is the only one in the whole coimty. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The earliest notice of the poor of this parish is in the sessional records, in which it is recorded that, on the 22d of September 1701, the poor of the parish were con- vened, when seven males and ten females received amongst them L.6, 7s. 6d. Scots. In 1752, L.95, 188. 6d. Scots were distri- buted to 34 males and 60 females. In 1820, there were on the permanent roll of paupers, 36 males and 96 females, in all 132, who received from the sessional funds L.62, 14s. : besides this sum, there was distributed in occasional relief, the farther sum of L.9, 14s., making in all the sum of L.72, 8s. Sterling, distributed to the parochial poor in 1820. In 1830, there were 41 males and 124 females, in all 165 per- sons, on the permanent roll. The sum distributed in permanent relief was L.74, 9s., and that in occasional, L.11, 6s., making to- gether the sum of L.85, 15s., distributed in 1830. 172 CAITHNESS-SHIUK. In 1840, there were on the permanent roll, 21 males and 76 females. Among them was distributed in permanent relief, L.32, ds. : the sum of L.21, Os. 84d. was distributed occasional* ly ; in all L.5d, Ss. d|d. But these statements by no means give a correct view of the extent of pauperism in this parish. Many are extremely poor. Public begging is common both in town and country. There has been put into the hands of the compiler of this report, a list drawn up by William Bruce, Esq. provost of Wick, of the poor who go round the shops and houses every Saturday <^ seeking their piece." It contains the names of 8 males and 53 females. At the request of the compiler, a committee, composed of the heritors, ministers, householders, and tenants, examined, in December 1840, into the state of pauperism within the parish, and reported that there were of persons utterly destitute, — In Wick, . . 6 men, 22 females. Total 28 In Louisburgh, ; . 21 29 50 In Pulteneytown ... 8 48 51 In the landward part of Wick quoad sacra, 22 50 * 72 In the parish of Keiss, . 5 22 27 Total (besides children), 229 There is no legal assessment for the poor in this parish. By £sir the largest portion of the funds available for their relief arise from collections at the church-door. The interest of L.300, which has been mortified for the poor, is applied to their relief; for which pur- pose, also, small donations are occasionally received. The poor are by no means clamant in seeking parochial relief. It is still considered as degrading ; and there are numerous in- stances of persons suffering great destitution, rather than make application for relief; and of individuals in but indigent cir- cumstances themselves, taking destitute persons, who have no claim upon them, into their houses, and supporting them without asking or receiving sessional assistance. But it must appear evi- dent, on consideration of the preceding particulars, that, unless the funds of the session are more plentifully supplied, this state of things will not continue much longer. These means of relief are, at present, altogether inadequate to meet even with the veriest pit- tance the numerous demands made upon them ; and symptoms are appearing, that necessity is more and more overcoming the laud- able reluctance of the destitute to make application for parochial relief. To bring on a legal assessment, it needs but the refusal of the benevolent shopkeepers of Wick to give any longer the WICK. 173 weekly penny which immemorially they have spontaneously bestow- ed on each of the numerous poor who go round on the Saturdays to collect it. Let this be done, and they are threatening to do it^ and a compulsory poor-rate, with its innumerable train of econo* mic and moral evils, will come on the parish in half-a*yean All parties will then find out, but when too late, that it would have been their wisdom to have supported, with greater attention and liberality, the good old system of the Church of Scotland. No- thing can arrest the progress of a country such as this to pauper- ism, but evangelical churches, pastoral superintendence, and scrip- tural schools. But these in suflScient abundance would, under the blessing of God, which is sure to be conferred on the preach- ing* and teaching of the Truth as it is in Jesus, accomplish this. The kirk-sessiob is composed of the minister and six elders, of whom, one is above eighty years of age, and another is in bad health. The elders do what they can for the spiritual and eco- nomic good of the people ; but what are they among so many ? Police and Crime^ 8^c. — The Earls of Caithness enjoyed, from an early date, the heritable jurisdiction of Caithness and Sutherland* In 1503, James IV. erected Caithness into a separate sheriffdom, and appointed Wick as the place where the courts were to be held. From this arrangement Caithness was, anciently, sometimes deno- minated the county of Wick, or Wickshire. In 1674, the heri- table jurisdictions of Caithness were sold by the Earl to John Campbell of Glenorchy, who sold them in 1718, by auction, to John Sinclair of Ulbster for L.2000 Sterling. When the heritable jurisdictions were abolished in 1748, Ulbster claimed L.5000 as compensation for the sheriffship, L.3000 as Justiciary, and L.1000 as Constable of Scrabster Castle and bailie of the Bishop's lands. The demand was considered extravagant, and he ultimately got only L.3000 for the whole. Justice in the hands of these heritable sheriffs, in general, failed through their weakness, or was perverted by their wickedness. But, during the seventeenth and the former part of the eighteenth centuries, the courts of the Church, with firmness and impartiality, grappled with this exceeding evil, and often accomplished what the . civil magistrates either could not, or, what is, perhaps, nearer the truth, would not attempt. In 1709, we find the presbytery of Caithness informing Queen Anne, that, in consequence of its dis- tance from the seat of government, ^^ this county has for a long time been a stage on which many atrocious villainies have been 174 CAITHNFSS-SHIUE. acted; particularly, many barbarous and inhuman murders and assassinations of persons of innocence and integrity." Tbe kirk- session of Wick was vigilant and energetic in repressing wicked- ness of all kinds. Amongst its elders were generally several ma- gistrates, and it exercised a mixture of civil and ecclesiastical authority. On August 31, 1701, ^^ the session taking into their consideration that there are a great many abuses committed, in and about the town of Wick, on the Sabbath day, did and hereby do, for the preventing of which, appoint and ordain that two elders do search the town in time of Divine service and after the same, and make report of irregular persons to the session." Similar appointments are often recorded ; and the most unremitting vigi- lance was exercised. In September 1701, two women are charged " for gathering pease in time of sermon ;" a man for " beating his wife ;" and, John Naughty ^^ for entertaining persons drink- ing in time of sermon." The session direct the town of Wick ^^ to put up ane cock-stool." ^^ Alexander Larnoch and his m(e are appointed to stand publicly, and to pay 20 shillings Scots for the crime of cursing;" and unto John Johnston the session '^ offer the alternative either to find surety to pay 8 punds, or otherwise to be liable to corporal punishment." The latter, " afterwards pro- duced John Sinclair, joiner, who hereby enacts himself cautioner •that he shall pay 8 punds at three terms, namely, 4 merks at Can- delmas; 4 merks a4 Whitsunday; and 4 merks at Lammas 1702. May 25th, 1702, Donald M'Curchie, shoemaker in Wick, who had been guilty both of gross and of contumelious conduct, was ordained by the session ^^ to be carried from the kirk of Wick to the cross, with a paper-hood bearing the inscription of his crime, and to sit there two hours in the stocks with the hood on his head, and thereafter" to give security that he shall pay his mulct, and submit to the customary discipline of the church. The pernicious and most reprehensible practice of levying " mulcts" upon delinquents, by sessional authority, continued till of late years. The people came to regard these fines as just the price of sin ; and this feeling is not even yet altogether extinct. Wick is the county town. The sheriff and other customary courts are held here. The sheriff-court was held at Thurso for a long period previously to 1828; but in that year,* Wick, after a protracted litigation, obtained a decision of the Court of Session, declaring Wick to be the head-burgh of the shire of Caithness, and ordaining that the stated sheriff-courts must be held and the s WICK. 175 Sheriff-clerk's office kept there. There is a county but not a burgbal police. Crime. — During the year from September 1st 1827 to Sep- tember )st 1828, there were confined within the jail of Wick, 36 male and 8 female culprits ; and during the same period, ending September 1st 1829, there were 21 males and 4 females. In the course of the four years subsequent to August 1880, the number of cases of crime within the county brought to trial, was 62, of which 55 were tried before the Sheriff, and 7 before the circuit-court at Inverness. This was little more than 15 for each year, or in the proportion of 1 f^r every 2297 of the population ; while for all Scotland the proportion was 1 in 1130. The crimes were, of Theft, Assault and breach of the peace. Malicious mischief, . Deforcement of officers of law, Child-exposure, . • Concealment of pregnancyy . Forgery, Defaming of judges. Reckless riding and injury, 16 81 5 4 1 2 1 1 1 62 Of the whole number, 30 were committed within the parish of Wick ; 1) in Thurso; 7 in Latherun ; 5 in Halkirk ; 3 in Reay ; 2 in Dunnet ; 2 in Bower ; 1 in Olrick ; and 1 in Wattin. In several of the cases a number of persons were concerned. Prisons, — In 1840, there were committed to Wick jail, 29 men and 2 women. The following table will point out a variety of parti- culars ; such as the profession, age, and crime of the culprits. It will also show, that the season of the herring-fishery is most pro- ductive of crime, and that of a particular kind. Date of Commit. 1840. Jan. 7, June 2, July 21, July 21, Aug. 1, Aug. 3, Aug. 8, Aug. 10, Aug. 10, Aug. 10, Aug. 16, Aug. 16, Aug. 16, Aug. 18, Aug. 20, ale. Female. 1 - 1 Occupation. Labourer, Fisher, Miller, Fisher, Seaman, Mason, Farmer, Do. Sawyer, Seamen, Do. Do. Servant, Age. Crime. 45 - Theft, 34 - Assault. 25 . Do. 21 - Do. 25 - Breach of peace. 60 - Exposing a child. 23 . Theft. 35 - Assault. 55 - Do. 71 - Do. 31 - Do. 28 • Rioting. 20 - Do. 48 - Assault. 18 - Desert, service. 176 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. Date of Commit. 1840. Aug. 22, Aug. 24, Aug. 24, Sept. 5, Sept. 24, Sept. 24, Oct. la, Oct. 13, Oct. IS, Sov. 18, Nov. 27, Nov. 27, Nov. 27, Dec. 1, Dec. I, ale. Female. Occupation. Age. • • Fisher, 23 . . Packman, 27 . » Do. 25 ^ • Fbher, 30 • • Labourer, 17 „ • Do. 18 „ • Servant, 16 • • Tinker, 31 . • Do. 20 • • Carter, -1» » * 'Joiner, 22 « . Farmer, 20 „ . Joiner, 21 . . Fisher, 21 s . Do. 17 .• Do. 46 Crime. Rioting. Asnult. Do. Rioting. Assault. Do. Theft. Do. Do. Utter, base coin. Poaching. Do. Do. Rioting. Do. Poaching. Dec 11, It must not be supposed that all these culprits were from the parish of Wick. The jail is not for the parish of Wick, but for the whole county of Caithness. The jail was built in 18*28, at an expense of L. 1200, the greater part of which was defrayed by the burgh. It is sufficient for the county. Attention is paid to the health of the prisoners. It is governed according to act of Parliament. The Rev. David Mit« chell, Missionary in Pulteneytown, has been appointed chaplain, with a salary of L. 20 a-year. Fairs. — The following fairs are held within this parish ; Skitten Market, at Kilminister, on the first Tuesday of March ; Wick Market, on the first Tuesday after Palm Sunday ; Fair of Wick in June. All these are for cattle. Margaretmas, at Hill of Wick, on the Tuesday after the 20th of July, for cattle, and the hiring of persons for the harvest ; and Fergusmas,* at Wick, in the end of November, for cattle. Inns and Public- Houses* — Of these there are in Wick and Louis- burgh, 22; Pulteneytown, 23; the landward part of the parishj 9 ; total, 54. Instead of this appalling number, every person acquainted with the circumstances of the parish must admit, that a dozen were more than enough for all the necessities of the district. An ex- cess of public-houses is one of the most frightful curses which can befall a community. Their effect upon the morals and comfort * The frequent use of the termination via$, in the names of fairs and term days in Caithness, shews the deep hold which Popery had taken of the district. Besidis Margaretmas and Fergusmas, mentioned above, there are in the county Colmsmas, the term on the 20th of June ; Petermas, !29th June, O. S. ; Georgemas, 15th July, O. S. ; Marymas, 15th August, O. S. ; Lukesmas, first Tuesday of October, O. S. ; Mansmas, or Magnusmas, first Tuesday of December, O. S. ; Tu&timas, fourth Tues- day of November, O. S. ; and a number more masses. wrcK. 177 of the people is most disastrous. Multitudes can trace their ruin in body, soul, and outward estate, to such seminaries of Satan and Belial, as the lower public-houses generally are. Those to whom it belongs to license such places in the parish of Wick have in- curred an awful* responsibility. FueL'^'The fuel made use of in this parish, is peats and coals. The latter are brought from the Wear and Tyne, and cost about 18s. a ton. Peats, which form the greater part of the fuel con- sumed by the commonalty, are dug in the mosses of the parish, and sold in the town for 2s. a cart The compiler of this report must apologise for its manifold imperfections. He became a resident in the parish, to which be was previously an utter stranger, only on the !24th of Octo- ber last. He was requested in December to draw up the re- port, which he would not have attempted could another person have been found to undertake it. In the midst of the numerous vocations and avocations of a most burdensome charge, he has had to search about for information, and arrange and put it to- gether at short intervals of ministerial labour. To those who have furnished him with materials he desires to tender his grateful ac- knowledgements, and more especially to the Right Honourable Lord Duffus, and to John Henderson, Esq. Pulteneytown, W. S. From the former he received a great deal of curious and import- ant information respecting the mineralogy, sea-coasts, antiquities, and progressive agricultural changes of the parish ; and to the latter he stands indebted for the free use of extensive and most ac- curate collections made by his learned and godly brother, the late Dr Patrick Brodie Henderson, illustrative of the history and sta- tistics of Caithness. These valuable collections ought either to be published, or lodged in some public library. March 1841. Addenda. — About the middle of the tenth century, Arnfin, Ha- vard, Liot, Sculy, and Lodvir, sons of Thorfin Earl of Orkney, contended on the decease of their father for the sovereignty. Arn- fin was assassinated by the contrivance of Regnhilda, his wife, who CAITHNESS. M 178 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. married Havard, of whom she likewise speedily procured the mur- der, that she might marry Liot, the third brother, of whom she had become enamoured. Sculy determined to dispute his brother^s authority. To secure success, he made application to Malcolm L King of Scotland, who readily agreed to give him assistance, hoping by means of him to wrest the northern counties from the sovereignty of Norway. He created Sculy Earl of Caithness, which was declared a part of the kingdom of Scotland, and sup- plied him with ships and troops. Liot was in Orkney when his brother reached the coast of Caithness, and his absence enabled Sculy to overrun the country. He next attacked the islands, but was repulsed, and many of his followers slain. He immediately withdrew to Caithness, whi- ther he was followed by Liot. Meantime Sculy secured the aid of Magbrag, chieftain of Sutherland, and the confederates were encamped in an advantageous position in the Bogs of Skitten, (/la- ludibus Skidtnsibusy) a name by which the Moss of Kilminster was anciently called.* Liot advanced against them, and was assaulted with vigour. His men stood firm ; and their enemies, after a vain attempt to break his line, were seized with a sudden panic and fled. The rout soon became complete, and Sculy was slain in attempt- ing to rally the fugitives. Liot having been wounded in the pur- suit, died soon after. From him the clan Macleod are said to be descended. Lodvir, the last of these ill-fated brothers, succeeded to the vacant earldom of Orkney. Marl, — The following is the result of an analysis of the marl in the Loch of Brickigoe, on the estate of Mr Innes of Thrum- ster, by Mr Kemp, Teacher of Practical Chemistry under the Pro- fessor of Chemistry in the University of Edinburgh. Pure carbonate of lime, 75 per cent. Alumina, ... 6 Silica, . . .5 Organic vegetable matter, 12 100 • The fair held on this moss is to this day called Skitten market. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COUNTY OF CAITHNESS, ♦ Caithness is the most northern county on the mainland of Scotland. It is divided from the county of Sutherland by a range of mountains and moory hills, extending from the Ord of Caith- ness to the North Sea, and is bounded otherwise by the sea ; the Pentland Frith dividing it from the Isles of Orkney. It extends from north to south about 40 miles, and from east to west about SO miles. Its area is 618 square miles, or 895,680 acres, of which about 1 00,000 are cultivated and in pasture, and the rest are uncultivated moor and hills. The valued rent is L. 39,256 Scots, and the real value of the land may now be L. 35,000 Ster- ling. The population in 1831 was 36,529. The Parliamentary constituency in 1840 was 487. Topography. — The general appearance of the county is flat and uninteresting ; the only hills of any eminence forming the boun- dary with Sutherland. A great proportion of the ground consist- ing of fiat moor and heath, and there being no extent of trees, the interior has a dreary appearance. Along the sea coast, which is generally bold and rocky, the appearance improves; and, from the improvements now going on in various quarters, a more cheer- ful and pleasant aspect is given to it, especially along the high road from the south towards Thurso. There are a few sheets of water, but none of any extent or peculiar beauty of appearance, and there are no navigable rivers. Geology. — There is no coal formation so far as known. Sand- stone of good quality prevails in some places; but the general formation is a black, bituminous, slaty sandstone. Mr Traill of * Drawn up by William Sutherland, Esq-i W. S. 180 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS Ratter has an extensive and pro6table quarry of flagstones for pavement, &c. which he works ; and there are one or two others in the county. The stones are principally shipped for London and Newcastle. Agriculture.^-TYie science of agriculture and husbandry, in all its branches, has made much progress of late years. The late Sir John Sinclair, who was a native of the county, and held- large estates therein, gave a considerable impetus to the spirit of im- provement ; but it has only been within the last twenty years, that» through the efforts mainly of Mr Traill of Ratter, Mr Home of Scouthel, and one or two other gentlemen, these improvements have taken the practical shape they have done. The soil of the county^ where cultivated, is generally a strong clay mixed with earth, producing green crops of all kinds, of the best quality and luxuriance. Farms are now to be seen of as great extent, and cultivated with equal skill and success, as in any part of Scotland. A great number of cattle of the best description are annually reared and sold in the south ; and it was found at a late show of the Highland Society at Inverness, that a great proportion of the prizes were carried off by competitors from Caithness. A large number of sheep is also kept ; and one gentleman from Caith- ness, Mr Paterson of Borlum, it is believed, annually obtains, at the Falkirk Tryst, the highest prices given for sheep and lambs. A considerable part of this county is, of course, still in the posses- sion of small farmers, paying from L. 10 to L. 50 of yearly rent ; but their condition is improving, and many of them raise green crops, and pursue a system of rotation. Along the sea coast, the fishermen generally hold small farms, which they cultivate when at honte. These, of course, are not in the best order ; but it does not seem possible, while the fisheries continue, to alter this system. Marl is found in considerable abundance, and of good quality ; and the refuse of the herrings, when properly amalgamated with some other substances, is much and advantageously used in bringing the waste lands into a proper system for cropping. Manufactures. — There are few manufactures in the county. Two or three rope-works ; some straw plaiting ; and a few distil- leries. Fisheries, — The herring-fishing has been for a number of years the principal trade and business of the county. The herrings are got all around the coast ; but Wick and the surrounding fishing villages are the principal places of resort. The fishing commences ON THE COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. 181 early in July, and continues nearly two months. There is con- siderable uncertainty as to the quantity, and of course risk, — so that the profits are frequently small to the curer, and often a loss is sustained. The fishermen are paid a price of so much per cran, which is generally fixed at the commencement of the season ; and, if the quantity got be tolerably large, he is sure of a fair remune- ration. In consequence of this, he pays a high rent for his house and land, and his condition generally is improved. The quantity caught and the number of people employed, vary each year con- siderably. On an average, it may be stated that the quantity caught, during the season, may be from 100,000 to 120,000 barrels or crans, and the number of people partially or wholly employed, including fishermen, coopers, packers, &c. about 12,000. The fishermen are paid from 9s. to lOs. per cran ; and the barrel when cured is worth about 21s. The number of boats employed may be about 1000, of which 700 are owned in the county, and the rest come from the Frith of Forth and various places in the Mur- ray Frith. Each boat ig manned by five men. These state- ments will show the immense importance of this fishery to the county, and that it is of considerable value in a national point of view. The salmon-fisheries in the rivers of Thurso, Berriedale, and one or two others, are also of some value. Gaelic is spoken only in the higher parts of the county ; in the other parts, the inhabitants, comprising three-fourths of the population, speak the ordinary language of the country, and their manners and habits are those of the lowland Scots. There has been during the last twenty years, considerable improvement in the manners^and social habits of the inhabitants : upon the whole, less inebriety — riots and fighting at fairs have almost ceased — and the standard of comfort has been raised amongst all classes. Edu- cation is advancing ; but it is to be regretted that its importance is not sufficiently appreciated by the mass of the people. The means of communication with the south by steam are every year improving. In the county itself, the roads are both good and nu- merous. 182 i O a a 6 P-i o <^ s s CO "S • ^* 09 .S2 » a GENERAL OBSERVATIONS e 9 .A ■s a •s a 9 o I a a < ^q *qu)aoo IxviunfOA JO ^oaamas -ft mojj e J! •UAupqifJk lanomv ^^ a ♦* Jf • • • • • 2 O OCDOOOO . . S '228383 '' J ^ " •pa)8dAin AlJndA %unoujy 'iaquinj(j a 9 O a pa J s I I UBj uisjooips 3 "3 CI s3*S §-2 a e-*S o oo oo ^^•^T ^^ ^J* ^ ^' ^w* ^ ^' ^' S^^^' ^^^W ^^^^ ^^I^ ^^^^ ^^I^ ^^^^ ^^^^ <0*0«0"V W^«a6^^ V «5 «)9 C0 OQ t i i m ■^ '^ '^ e8 c8 cj es w w JS JS js JC JC ^ o u u o o o ^ ^ »0 50 "^ r» "8823 OD •OQ 'OQ «pmpiA|pui sjdpaoas jo SJaiuassfQ JO wnimM ^RTT WW : :2« sienpiAtpu] ^ r* :tf SsJMJJi qo •q'wa o) SaiSuof -aq •gqiBj I 1881 UI UOI ■^^ nwindoj s a a 2 2 ir-iiilill'S ON THE COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. 183 Table II. — Shewing Extent, &c. of Parishes in the County of Caithness. • Acres cul- Do. sup- Acres in tivated or Acres un- pos. cap. Acres Parishes. parish. occasion. cultivated of cidtiv. under in tillage. with prof. wood. Thurso, . 22000 12000 10000 7000 40 Reay, . Canishay, _ .^ ... «^ ... — 9200 28800 — . ... Dunnet, . 17000 5000 12000 m^ m^ Watten, . 38400 5500 33400 5000 .. Olrick, . 10000 6000 4000 8400 ^ Halkirk, . 78600 6000 67000 _ m^ Latheron, 140000 9000 131000 ^^ 720 Bower, . _ _ _ .» ... Wick, . N. B— The acres uncultivated include those capable of cultivation and thoae under wood. i2toy....SG0tch acres here stated. - PRINTED BY JOHN STARK, OLD ASSEMBLY CLOSE, EDIKBURGH. INDEX. Achardale, clachan of, 74 Achargill bay, ] Id— castle, 141 Agricultiire and rural economy, 6, 18, 28, 42, 53, 63, 76, 97, 145 Agriculture, andent state of, in Wick, 145 Agricultural society of Caithness, 171 Animal remains, various, found in the peat, 52 Antiquities, 4, 17, 25, 39, 52, 61, 70, 91 Arch, natural, at Borrowston, 13 Auld Wick Castle, ruins of, 118, 139 Banniskirk, Chapel of, 73 Barrogill castle, 77 Benfrectan, ancient fort on, 17 Berriedale chapel, 91 — head, 85 — water, 88 Bighouse bay, 14 Bilbster bum, 123 Birkle hills, ruins of, 138 Bishop of Caithness, murder of the, 72 Boars of Duncansbay, the, 23 Borrowston, caves at, 13 Botany, 38, 127 Bower, parish of, 114 Brabster house, 27 Brawl castle, ruhis of, 70 Broadhaven, village of, 157 Bruan, mission of, 162 Bucholie castle, ruins of, 25 Cailm loch, 15 Caithness, general observations on, 179 — agriculture, 180 — ecclesiastical sta- tistics, 182— -fisheries, 180 — manufac- tures, 180 Calder loch, 69 Canisbay, parish of, 21 — house, 27 Castles, ruins of various, in Latheron, 91 Castlehill bay, 60— harbour, 61 Castleton, village of, 62 Cattle, see Live-stock Caves at Borrowston^ 13 — in Ben Rhad, 14 Chapels, nuns of various, 69 Character, habits, and language of the l^opulation, 5, 18, 28, 41, 53, 75, 93, 143 Cholera, appearance of, in Wick, 122 CAITHNESS. Christianity, introduction of, among the Picts, 159 Clett rock, the, 2 Climate, see Meteorology Clyth, pier at, 105 Clytbness, 86 Columba, conversion of the Pictish king by, 159 Copper, veins of, 126 Churches, see Ecclesiastical Statistics Crime, statistics of, in Wick, 175 Culdees, churches planted by the, 159 Currents of the Pentland Frith, the, 23 Danes, defeat of the, at Murkle, 62— last invasion and defeat of the, 89 Dirlot castle, ruins of, 72 Diseases, prevalent, in Wick. 121 Dissenters and Dissenting chapels, 9, 32, 66, 165 Dunbcath water, 97 JDuncaiisbay, 22 — Bours of, 23 — head, 22— stacks of, 22 Dunnet bay, 37 — head, 34 — lighthouse, 40 — parish of, 34 Duns, remains of, in Halladale, 17 Durrcen lake, 61 Ecclesiastical statistics, 9, 20, 31, 46, 57,66, 78, 106, 116, 159 Education, statistics of, 10, 20, 32, 46, 58,66,80, 109, 116, 166 Elsher's cairn, and tradition relating to, 138 Fairs and markets, 12, 21, 33, 47, 58, 67, 113, 176 Fisheries, herring, 7, 19, 30, 100, 151— salmon, 7, 37, 104 Forss or Forssy water, the, 2, 15, 60 Fort, ancient, on Benfrectan, 1 7 Fossil remains, various, found in NN'ii'k, 125 Freestone^ see Quarries Fresgo head, 14 Fres\iick bay, 22 — burn and spring, 23 — house, 27 Fuel, 12, 21, 33, 47, 59, 67, 82, 113 Geology and mineralogy, 2, 15, 24, 36, 50, 86, 124 Ocrston, clachan of, 74 Giirs bay, 22 Gimigoe castle, ruins of, 118, 139 186 CAITHNESS-SHIRE. GoeSi various, in Wick, 118 Gun, the clan, origin of, 192 HabitA, &c. see Character Halkirk, parish of, 68~river, 69 Halladalc water, 15 Harbours, various, in Latheron, 105 — in Wick, 158 Harold's tower, 4 Hauster Burn, the, 123 Hayland loch, the, 36 HelHhettcr, mineral spring of, 14 Hemprigg's house, 142 — loch, 123 — stacks of, 118— vilkge, 118 Herring, see Fisheries Holbuni head, 1 HuMbandry systems of, 6, 29, 64, 98 Improvements, agricultural, in Dunnet, 44 — extensive, in Watten, 55 Innes, Mr, bequest by, 33 Inns and alcliouses, 12, 21, 33, 59, 67, 82, 119, 176 Inroad of the Rebels during 1745, 3 Inscri])tion in Dunnet church-yard, 38 John o'Oroafs House, site of, 26 KoisB, bay of, 1 17, 1 19— castle, ruins of, \4\ --quoad sacra parish of, 163 Kelp manufactory, decrease of, 45 Kilminstcr bum and loch, 123 — moss, battle of, 115 Kirk o' Moss, ruins of, 159 Language, see Character Lungwell water, 38 Latheron, parish of, 83 — improvements in, 100^— ministers of, from 1637,113 Libraries and literature, 39, 66, 170 Lighthouse on Dunnethead, 30 Limestone, see Quarries Linglass castles, ruins of, 138 Liotus and Scullius, contest between, for Earldom of Caithness, 115 Live-stock, breeds of, 6, 19, 29, 43, 55, 64, 98, 149 Lochs, various, in Reay, 15 Lochdhu, 123 Lochmore, 69 Longevity, instances of, in Latheron, 86 —in Wick, 122 Louisburg, village of, 156 Lybster chapel, 91 — harbour, 105 — ruins of chapel at, 17 — village of, 104 Mackay Rev. David, 16 Manganese, ores of, 6, 15 Manufactures, straw-plait, leather, &c. 7 — various in Wick, 154 Margaret of Scotland, shipwreck and burial-place of, 141 Master of Caithness, murder of, by his father, 134 Meteorological tables, kept at Wick, 120 Meteorology and climate, 2, 14, 23, 35, 49,85, 119 May, loch of, 24 Mineralogy, see Geology Ministera of Latheron from 1637, 118 — of Wick from the RefonnatioD» 165 Moray Frith, the, 122 Morrison, Rev. Dr, 24 Morven mountain, 84 Murkle Bay, 60— or Morthill, batde of» 62 New Reay, village of, 20 Newton bum, 123 Norwegians, conquest of the Orkneys and northern counties by, 131 Noss head, 118— cavern under, I IB- loch, 123 Nunnery, remains of, at Closten, 61 Olrick, parish of, 59 Ord of Caithness, the, 84 Oswald of Glasgow, birth-place of, 4— Mr, bequest by, for poor of Canis- bay, 33 Pap of Caithness, the, 84 Parish registers of Canisbay, extracts from, 26 Pauperism, see Poor. Pavement quarries at tastlehill, &c. 60 Pentland Frith, the, 23— currents in, 23, 55 — Skerries and lighthouse, 23 Pictish remains in Dunnet, 39— in Wat- ten, 52--in Wick, 137 Pict«(, their origin and settlement in Scotland, 131 Plantations and planting, 54, 63, 97, 128 Poor, management of the, 11, 20, 38, 47,58,67,81, 112, 116, 171 Population returns, 5, 18, 27, 40, 53, 62,74,92, 116, 143 Prelacy, first introduction of, in 909, 160 Prison of Thurso, the, 11 —of Wick, and committals thereto, 175 Proudfoot head, 119 Pulteneytown, village of, 156 Quarries, freestone, 7, 16, 19,45 — lime- stone, 15, 77— pavement, 60, 77 slate, 7 Reay, parish of, 12 — village of, 20 Reiss or Keiss bay, 119 Reformation, its slow progress in Caith- ness, 160 Rent of land, rates of, 6, 18, 28, 43, 54, 63, 97, 148 Roads, bridges, &c. 8, 31, 78, 157 Rosebank house, 142 St Coomb's kirk, site of, 61 St John's loch, 36 St Magnus's chapel, ruins of, 73 St Thomas's chapel, ruins of, 73 Salmon fisheries^ see Salmon Sands, shifting of the, 36 INDEX. 187 Sandside bay, 14 — harbour, 20 Sarclct loch, 124— village, 157 Savings bank of Wick, 171 Scaraben mountain, 84 Schools, see Education Scrabster roads, 9 Seal catching in the caves of Latberon, 85 Sbebster, ruins of chapel and stone coffins found at, 1 7 Sheep, see Live-stock. — the original Caithness breed of, 87 Shipping belonging to Thurso, 7 — to Wick, 155 Sinclair castle, ruins of, 1 18, 141 Sinclair, Sir John, 3, 89 — William, bequest by, for poor of Canisbay, 33 Societies, friendly, 11, 47, 58, 66, 81, 112 — religious and charitable, 12, 171 Spittal hill, 68 Springs, mineral, at Helshetter, 14r— chalybeate in Wick, 124 Stacks of Duncansbay, the, 22 Stanstill burn, the, 123 Stasdgoo, village of, 157 Stirkoke house, 142— strath of, 119 Storehouses, ancient, at Stazigoe, 157 Strathalladale, 12 Straw-plait, manufactory of, 7 Stroma, island of, 22 Superstitions, remaining in Wick, 161 Syster loch, 36 Thrumster house, 142 Thurso, parish of, 1 — bay, 1 — town, 7 — its ancient importance, S-*harbour, 9— vessels belonging to, 7— water, 2,69 Tides and currents of the Pentland Frith, 35 Tobair Acraig, spring pf, 70 Toft Ferry house, ruins of, 138 Toftingall lake, 50 Town, remains of, submerged by the sands, 13 Traill of Ratter, extensive Improvements by, 65 Tumuli, ancient, in Dunnet, 39 Ulbster head, 119 Wages, rates of, 6,19, 28» 43, 54, 63, 97 Ward hill, the, 22 Watch-towers, remains of ancient, 25, 61 Watten loch, 50, 123— pariah of, 49— improvements in, 55 Weather, prognostics of the, 14 Wester loch and water, 123 Wick, parish of, 117— origin of the name, 1 1 7 — history of, 130---ministen of, from the Reformation, 165— head of, 1 18— river of, 123 Wick, town of, 155 — its popuktion, 157- harbour, 158— church, 161 — manufactures, 154 — prison, 175 — shipping, 155 Winless loch, 123 Woods, see Plantations Yarrows, loch of, 123 Zoology, 2, 16, 24, 37, 88, 129 PR1»'TED BY JOHN STARK, OLD ASSEMBLY CLOSE, EDIKBUROR. ORKNEY. CONTENTS. BIRSAY AND IIARRAY, . . PAGE 148 CROSS AND BURNE8S, . . .85 EYIE AND KENDALL, . 196 FIRTH AND STENNE8S, . .'67 HOLME AND PAPLAY* . « 204 HOY AND GRAEUSAY, . > .40 KIRKWALL, .... 1 LADY, ..... 133 ORPHIR, .... 13 RONALDSHAY AND HURRAY, . .191 ROUSAY AND EAOLESHAY, 83 SANDWICK, . .41 SHAPINSHAY, ... 79 ST ANDREWS, . . . * . 169 STROUNESS, .... 26 STRONSAY AND EDAY, . 156 WALLS AND FLOTTA, ... 70 WESTRAY, . . .114 ^ 1.- f i PARISH OF KIRKWALL AND ST OLA. PRE8BYTKRY OF KIRKWALL, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. THE REV. WILLIAM LOGIE,) ^.vj^QT^ppQ ^ THE REV. PETER PETRIE, | ^v^*J>'^2>AmiJ5. L — Topography and Natural History. Namcj Boundaries^ Sfc. — The royal burgh of Kirkwall is situat- ed in latitude 58° 59' N., and longitude d'' 23' W., and is sur- rounded by a landward district called St Ola, which forms nearly a square, intersected by several bays, the side of the square mea- suring about 5 miles. Buchanan considers the name of the town as a corruption of Cracoviaca or Kirkvaa, the ancient Danish name; but it is more probably derived from the extensive walls of the principal and. most ancient building, the kirk or cathedral of St Magnus, to be afterwards noticed. The name of the parish is bor- rowed from Olaus or Olave, the first Christian king of Norway, to which country the Orkney Islands anciently belonged. The town consists principally of one street, in many parts very narrow, run- ning the whole length ; parallel to which, however, a new street, called King Street, has been commenced within the last twenty years, and contains several neat and commodious houses. The principal bays in the parish are those of Kirkwall, Inganess, and Scapa ; the two former affording safe and capacious anchorage for ships of the largest size, and the latter being the common place of landing for boats and small craft, from Caithness and the islands south of Kirkwall. The surface of the parish is, on the whole, not very elevated, the only considerable hill being that of Wideford, rising about 500 feet above the level of the sea, and covered with heath, the soil being chiefly mossy. Towards Gait-nip on the east side of Scapa bay, are the highest crags, and in them there are several excavations formed by the action of the sea, one running in the form of a narrow winding passage, upwards of 100 yards * Drawn up by the Rev. William I^ogie. ORKNEY. A 2 OllKNEV. from the sea edge, being in height apparently from 12 to 20 feet, and adorned with beautiful stalactites of lime. Hydrography. — In the parish, are several ponds, rivulets, and springs of excellent water ; and about two miles south of the town there is a pretty strong chalybeate spring, called Blakel/s well, to which invalids formerly resorted. Geology. — The prevailing rock is argillaceous schistus, frequent- ly alternating with a coarse sandstone, in some instances of a white and in others of a red colour, sometimes containing veins of limestone with iron pyrites* The clay-slate is frequently traversed by small veins of lime, and occasionally by heavy spar, containing small crys- tals of galena. Itisalso often found highly impregnated with bitumi- nous matter, which gives it a black colour, and when recently brok- en, a tarry smell. The subsoil is, for the most part, a very reten- tive clay, as might be inferred from the great prevalence of clayey strata. There are considerable extents of peat moss. The soil in the arable grounds is chiefly a good black loam, with either a clay or gravelly bottom. Botany. — The botany of the parish presents nothing rare or pe- culiar. Gardening is, for the climate, practised pretty successfully. Besides currants, gooseberries, and strawberries, which attain agood size and ripen well, apples, pears, and cherries thrive well ; and in one garden, grapes are produced by tho aid of artificial heat. Forest trees, except under shelter, do not succeed, partly, no doubt, owing to the sea air, but probably more to the strength of the tree being spent in repeated germinations during the winter, arising from the prevalence of open weather alternating with slight frosts. Zoology. — Of animals the parish contains no rare species. Rabbits are not numerous, and till about twelve years ago, there were no hares, but a few pairs having been then introduced, they have rapidly multi- plied, to the no small annoyance and damage of the farmers. The commons abound with plovers, grouse, snipe, and other species of game. Sea birds in great variety frequent the rocks and bays of the parish. Of the domestic animals, the cows and horses are ge- nerally rather small in size, but considerably larger than those of the Shetland Isles. Sheep, pigs, geese, ducks, turkeys, and fowls, are reared in considerable numbers, and many are exported, as well as horses and black-cattle, especially since the commencement of steam navigation. Fisheries. — On the coast, fish of all the kinds common in Scot- land, and of excellent quality, abound. The cole-fish, in all its KIRKWALL AND ST OLA. 3 gradations of size, here distinguished by the names of silloch, cuith, cuthine, and saithe, is by. far the most useful, constituting a prin- cipal part of the food of the poorer classes. Sea trout are taken in considerable numbers in the bays and small brooks or burns, which they ascend in October and Novem- ber for the purpose of spawning, returning in the spring months. Salmon are very rarely met with, though now and then a stray fish is caught. II. — Civil History. Kirkwall was erected into a royal burgh by a charter from James IIL of Scotland, dated Slst March a. d. 1486, and is governed by a provost, four bailies, dean of guild, treasurer, and council- lors. It is also the seat of the Sheriff- Court, Justice of Peace Court, presbytery, and synod. Eminent Men. — Of eminent characters connected with the pa- rish, those most worthy of notice are, Sir Robert Strange, the emi- nent engraver ; Malcolm Laing, Esq. the well-known historian of Scotland, over whose remains, in the cathedral, is erected a hand- some marble tablet, bearing a very elegant inscription in Latin ; and Dr Traill, the present accomplished Professor of Medical Ju- risprudence^ in the University of Edinburgh; all of whom were born in Kirkwall. Land-owners, — The principal land-owners arc the Earl of Zet- land ; Mr Baikie of Tankerness ; Mr Balfour of Trenaby ; Mr Pollexfen of Cairston ; Mr Laing of Papdale ; and Mr Graeme of Graeme's Hall. Public Buildings. — The chief public buildings are, the Cathe- dral of St Magnus, the Earl's and Bishop's palaces, and King's castle, the town house, and grammar school. Of these edifices, the most deserving of notice is the Cathedral, founded a. d. 1138, by Rognvald or Ronald, Count of Orkney, and dedicated to the memory of his uncle, Magnus, also Earl of Orkney, and canonized for his piety, real or repuled. This state- ly building still remains in a condition of wonderful entireness and preservation, considering its great antiquity. Its choir having been immemorially used in lieu of a parish church, the cathedral was, for a long period, upheld and repaired, solely by a small fund arising from seat-rents, which, however, being very inadequate for the purpose, the building would speedily have fallen into decay, had not a wealthy native of the county, Mr Meason of Moredun, about thirty years ago, mortified a sum, amounting, after deduction 4 ORKNEY. of legacy duty, to L.000, for the purpose of repairing .nnd beautify- ing it, by the annual application of the interest ; and this liben|l gift has since contributed very much to its preservation. The cathedral is the property of ** the provost, bailies, council, and inhabitants of the burgh/' to whom it was gifted by the above cited charter of James IIL, conBrmed by a new charter from James V., dated 1536; and a third, by Charles II. in 1661, ra- tifying the former two. Upon this charter infeftment followed in 1669, and all these titles were confirmed by Act of Parliament, 1670, cap. 42. These charters also conveyed to the magistrates and corporation, the patronage of the two benefices in Kirkwall* which, however, the crown-officers, about twelve years ago, claimed for the crown : but the question being carried to the Court of Ses- sion, and by appeal to the House of Lords, the right of the corpo* ration to the patronages, and, consequently, to the property of the cathedral, conveyed by the same titles, was found to be valid and impregnable. The cathedral is built in that style of mixed Gothic and Saxon architecture common in the age of its erection. Its length outside is 226 feet ; breadth, 56 ; height of the main roof, 71 ; and from the floor to the top of the steeple, 133. The main roof of the choir and part of the nave is elegantly arched, and is supported by 32 pillars, faced with freestone. The side aisles, behind the pillars, are finished above by a series of groined arches, and the whole is lighted by 103 windows, including those in the steeple, some of them in the Gothic style, and of great size. The steeple contains an excellent chime of three large bells, rung by ropes at- tached to the clappers, so as to produce a kind of melody, in the ancient cathedral fashion. The Earl's Palace, the ruins of which, still pretty entire, stand near the cathedral to the south-east, was erected, a. d. 1660, by Patrick Stewart, Earl of Orkney, whose father, Robert, was a natural son of James V. The bishop's palace, whose ruins are also situated very near the cathedral, is of much greater antiquity and in a much more dilapidated state. It was honoured by the residence in it at difierent periods of two royal guests, Haco, King of Norway, who died in this building, and James V. of Scotland, who, in the course of a progress through his dominions, lodged there for a short time and partook of the bishop's hospitality. Of the King's Castle, erected in the 14th century by Earl Henry KIRKWALL AND ST OLA. S St Clair, a very inconsiderable and ruined portion now remains t(t mark the spot on which it once stood. Parochial Reffisters.-^The parochial registers, in the custody of the kirk-session, consist of 6ve volumes of register of baptisms, ex- tending from 1657 to the present time, without interruption ; three volumes of register of marriages, from 1657 to the current year ; and five volumes of the minutes of session, containing the resffestcSf from 1626 to 1840, with the exception of ten years, from 1659 to 1669, the records of which appear to have been lost. No regular or continuous register of deaths or burials was kept till within the last fifty years. III. — Population. Amount of population in 1801, . 2621 1811, 22fe«d 1821, 3246 1831, . 3721 It appears from a comparison of successive censuses taken since the commencement of the present century, that the population of Kirkwall was, for many years, progressively on the increase. It is, however, the general belief that, since 1831, the population, if not decreasing, has been at least stationary.* This, indeed, is evident from the fact, that house building, which in former years went on very briskly, has of late been almost at a stand, and many habita- tions in the town are at present untenanted. This arrest on the increase of population is mainly to be ascribed to the failure of the kelp trade, formerly the staple of these islands, the large profits of which gave a stimulus to industry and trade; and though the fisheries have been greatly extended since that manufacture was given up, or nearly so, yet the emolument arising from the former source has passed into other hands. Those who profit by the fishing are chiefly boatmen and labourers, who lay out their little capital, not in trade in the towns, but in farming or an extension of their fishing speculations. The average number of marriages, births, and deaths for the five years ending with 1839, appears from the parish registers to be, — marriages, 26; births, 41; deaths, 59. The inhabitants of the town consist chiefly of shopkeepers, trades* men of the diflerent crafts, sailors, boatmen, and labourers. Be« sides these, there are a few resident proprietors, officers of customs and excise, three medical practitioners, two bankers, six gentlemea * The new census, uken while this Account was in the prcM» eihibits accordingly a decrease of 147 in the ten years, — the population being now oi.ly 3574. 6 ORKNEY. of the law, and ministers of four communions, five in number; to- gether with several teachers of youth, male and female. The shopkeepers are very numerous, almost every alternate house, in most parts of the town, containing a shop. ^Fhe princi- pal shops are well stocked with goods of every description, imported from Edinburgh, London, and other markets ; and which are sold on very moderate profits, considering the distance of the markets and the great expense of carriage. Many of the mechanics execute their work well, but they are generally complained of as dilatory, seldom executing their orders within the stipulated time ; though the undoubted fact was pro- bably an extreme case, of a gentleman sending a nursery-fender to be painted, which was not returned till after the boys, for whose safety it was intended, returned, grown men, from college ! The sailors and boatmen, for skill, hardihood, and dexterity in their profession, are not surpafised by their brethren in any part of the world. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — As few of the estates in St Ola have been sur- veyed or measured, the extent in acres of the cultivated ground cannot be accurately given ; but by "good judges, it is thought, that the arable ground does not exceed 1200 or 1500 acres, which, on an average, is rented at about 16s. per acre. Considerable im- provement in the modes of farming has taken place, of late years ; several proprietors, and tenants, having introduced the improved modes of agriculture practised in the south, by rotation of crops, draining, and enclosing. Oats, barley, and bear, potatoes, turnips and artificial grasses, are cultivated with success. Mr Pollexfcn of Cairston, besides setting an example of general good farming, on a part of his property in his own occupation, has made such improvements in the production of grass and turnip seeds, as to have attracted the approving notice of the Agricultural Associa- tions ; and the seeds raised by him are in considerable request, even in the south of Scotland. There is a considerable extent of pasture lands in the parish. The common charge for pasturage of an ox or cow is L. 1, 10s. The wages of ploughmen are L. 7, 7s. per annum in money, with allowances of meal, milk, and potatoes ; making the whole fee, L. 14 or L. 15. Feniale domestic servants receive, at an average, L. S per annum, with their maintenance. Price of labour. Is. to lis. 8d. per day. KIRKWALL AND ST OLA* 7 The sheep pastured on the commons, which are undivided, are less numerous than formerly, but in their breed, as well as that of cattle and horses, a gradual improvement is taking place. Prices of Produce^ Sfc — A horse, L. 12 to L. 16; a milch cow, L. 5 to L.6 ; a good sheep, L. 1 ; a goose, 2s. to 2s. 6d. ; poultry, 8d. each ; beef, 5d. to 6d. per lb. ; oatmeal, 2s. to 2s. 6d. per stone ; potatoes, 2s. per barrel. Manufactures. — Since the demand for kelp has so greatly di- minished, the only kind of industry in the parish, properly falling under this denomination, is the plaiting of straw for hats and bon- nets, which, more or less, occupies three-fourths of the female population. This manufacture has been carried on for forty years, and has proved a very seasonable source of emolument to the poorer classes. The raw material is either Tuscan straw imported from Leghorn, or rye-straw raised in Orkney, which is more durable, and very little inferior in appearance. This kind of labour, as at present conducted by the agents giving out the straw to the women to be manufactured in their own dwellings, is not liable to the objection of injuring the morals, as in the case of manufactures which assemble multitudes of the young in one place. In this manufacture, a woman earns from Sd. to 9d. per day, according to her skill and diligence or the time which she devotes to the em- ployment. There are two licensed distilleries in the parish, which export a considerable quantity of whisky, besides what is sold in the place. Navigation, — The town is provided with a safe and commodious harbour, constructed thirty years ago, and well frequented both by coasting and other vessels, including some from Norway and the Baltic lliere are, at present, sixty-eight vessels which sail from this port, as registered in the custom-house books ; but as forty-seven of these belong to Stromness, and other harbours through the islands, the number strictly belonging to the town of Kirkwall and trading from it, is twenty-one, the tonnage of which is 1593, and the number of men and boys employed in them, 106. Considerable quantities of grain, fish cured in the islands, cattle, and other produce, are annually exported, both coastwise and to foreign ports. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — Kirkwall was formerly entitled to only three mails per week; but about a year ago (1839), through 8 ORKNEY. the exertions of the county and burgh Members, a daily post was established ; in other words, the mail-boat is bound, on every law- ful day, when weather permits, to cross the Pentland Frith. A good sailing vessel, for conveyance of goods and passengers, plies all the year between this town and Leith ; and within the last few years, the place has obtained the great advantage of a weekly visit from an excellent and powerful steamer, which ac- complishes the voyage to Leith, including several long stoppages, in from 34 to 40 hours. The roads through the parish have of late years been greatly improved, which has led to the introduction of gigs and phaetons for hire. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish is a collegiate charge, the two ininisters officiating in the cathedral alternately. Their sti- pends were modiBed, each to L. 150 ; but, being partly paid in kind, have for many years fallen short of that sum. The first minister has a glebe consisting of about 50 acres arable, with pasturage; and its annual value has, for some years, been somewhat upwards of Lb 40. He has also a manse, erected 140 years ago, but which at present is let by the heritors, who pay the present incumbent an annuity in lieu of it. The second minister has nei- ther manse nor glebe ; but, under a late act of Parliament, draws from the Exchequer L. 50 in lieu of both. The only place of worship in connection with the Establish- ment, which the inhabitants have ever enjoyed, is the choir or clfancel of the cathedral, which is seated to accommodate from 830 to 870 sitters ; but so awkwardly, that it has been ascertained by measurement, that a better arrangement of the seats and po- sition of the pulpit would give at least an addition of 150 avail- able seats. The cathedral is placed in the centre of the parish, and there is no dwelling, 'more than two and a-half or three miles from the place of worship, while five-sixths of the population are within half a mile of it. The accommodation in the cathedral was probably sufficient for all the church-going population at a former period ; but as the number of inhabitants increased, the want of more church room was severely felt, and a portion of the inhabitants, who could not procure seats, or such as they wished, accepted the offer of the Antiburgher Seceders to establish a congregation* there. A chapel in that connection was accordingly erected forty-four years ago, and afterwards rebuilt on a larger scale. Shortly after, an Independent meeting-house was erected> KIRKWALL AND ST OLA. 9 and more recently, one in connection with the Original or Asso- ciate Secession Synod. Thus a majority of the inhabitants are Dissenters, and from the great length of time that they have been so, and their strong attachment to their respective persuasions, there is no probability that, in any circumstances, many of them will return to the Established Church. While the churchman must regret this state of matters, yet, if a Christian, he will re- joice that not one individual in this parish, except through his own fault, is deprived of an opportunity of attending divine ordi-^ nances in a Protestant, or even a Presbyterian place of worship, and under pastors of good character, and preaching the Gospel in its purity. Of how many cities or burghs in Scotland can the same be said ? The cathedral, which is used as the parish church, though never designated or legally divided as such, nor upheld by the heritors of town or country, is well attended, notwithstanding that it is damp, and, like all such ancient buildings, inconvenient as a place of worship. While the population was rapidly increasing, all its seats were let, and for the most part occupied. At present, how- ever, and for a few years past, from 60 to 100 seats are unoccu* pied in the ordinary diets of worship, and 320 are unlet, besides a few free seats held as heritable, and a considerable number assigned gratuitously to the poor. The rents, rendered necessary for paying beadles, repairing seat£, firing, and lighting, are extremely mode- rate, varying from 6d. to Ss. per sitter, which is the highest charge excepting one seat, containing eleven sitters, which rents at 4s. About four years ago, a few individuals in the parish proposed erecting a new church by subscription, as they thought that, from the circumstance of a great number of the burgh heritors being Dis- senters, there was no hope of obtaining a parish church without a law-suit. Many of the congregation, understanding that it was to be used instead of the cathedral, contributed small spms to the undertaking; but by far the greater part of the subscriptions were obtained throughout Scotland and England. The chapel, situat- ed close to the cathedral, and large enough to contain all the church population, man, woman, and child, is now nearly finished^ and if it were to be occupied as a substitute for the old and incoiv venient cathedral, would prove a great benefit to the place. Such» however, does not seem to be the intention of its proprietors. They applied for a grant from the General Assembly's Extension Committee, to aid in its erection, as an additional and separate place 10 ORKNEY. of worship, to be served by one of the colleague ministers. The Ex- tension Committee granted L.200 towards its erection Four mana- gers of the chapel have since presented a petition, which lies on the table of the Presbytery, praying them to divide the parish, uncolle- .giate the ministers, placing one of them in the chapel as minister of y>ne-half the parish, but reserving to him his civil rights and emo- luments as a minister of the whole or quoad civilia parish. This, in the circumstances of the parish, would be just to convert one of the charges into a sinecure, so far as preaching is concerned ; as it is certain, and the petitioners calculate upon it, that when the comparison comes to be between the old and incommodious cathedral, and a comfortable chapel just next door, the whole audience will evacuate the cathedral, while, by the proposal, one of the ministers must still continue to officiate there. As the principal heritors are perfectly willing that the worship should be wholly transferred to the chapel, the proper course appears to be, to obtain the Presbytery's sanction to its occupation as a preaching station, in lieu of the cathedral ; and this is the consummation which has all along been desired by the whole community, except- ing a few individuals. Education. — The antiquity of the principal educational esta- blishment in the parish, called the grammar school, cannot be ac- curately ascertained ; but it cannot be much, if at all, short of 500 years old : for in the fifteenth century, it is referred to in the town's charter, as an existing establishment. At that time, and long af- ter, it was taught by an ecclesiastic, the prebend of St Peter, con- nected with the cathedral ; and even after the teachers were lay- men, we find by the records, that they drew and enjoyed the emo- luments of that prebendary, (November 1652). This goodly endowment, however, was, amidst the troubles of these times, alienated from the schoolmaster, and became merged either in the funds for payment of the clergymen of the different parishes con- nected with the prebendary, or in the revenues of the bishopric, which passed into the possession of the Crown. He, however, retained, and his successors still retain, a payment of thirty meills or bolls of malt, — the fruit of a voluntary contribution made by the clergy and other gentlemen of Orkney a. d. 1649, amounting to 2000 merks, which were mortified in the hands of Lord Mor- ton, on condition of said annual payment of malt, out of the feu- duties of the earldom, then held by the Earl of Morton, and now by the Earl of Zetland. To this there was, twenty years ago, KIRKWALL AND ST OLA. H added a new endowment by John Balfour, Esq. of Trenaby, for- merly Member of Parliament for the county, of the interest of L.500, very liberally mortified by him in the bands of trustees, for which the schoolmaster is taken bound to educate eight poor chil- dren, recommended by the donor or his representatives. These constitute the sole endowments now possessed by the grammar schoolmaster, which, together with the fees paid by the scholars, make up but a very moderate living. The school at present, and for sixteen years past, taught by a very able and talented teacher, Mr James Craig, is attended by from 80 to 100 scholars, male and female, who are instructed in the Greek, Latin, French, and English languages, mathematics, navigation, arithmetic, and the principles of the Christian religion. During the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, it appears from the records, that the school-house was upheld, and the schoolmaster appoint* ed, by the kirk-session ; but since that period, the patronage has been exercised by the town-council, who also, upwards of twenty years ago, erected a new and elegant school-house, in lieu of th(» old one, which had become ruinous ; — and while they cx)ntinue to uphold the school-house, as at present, and to present, as they have done for some time past, able and respectable masters to the school, it is not likely that their right of patronage will be called in question. Besides the grammar school, there is one endowed by the So- ciety for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and attended by from 50 to 60 scholars, children of the poor; and there are several other schools taught on private adventure. There is a private school for young ladies taught by an accomplished teacher, and a female charity school, supported by benevolent ladies in the town. There are likewise three Sabbath schools, numerously attended, and an infant school. The benefits of education are generally appreciated by parents ; and there are scarcely any betwixt the ages of six and sixty who cannot read. Libraries, — There are two subscription libraries in the town, the oldest of which, called " The Orkney Library,^' is on a pretty ex- tensive scale. Charitable Institutions. — There are three Relief or Friendly So- cieties in the town, affording aid to widows, orphans, and, in the case of one at least, to sick or reduced members. There are also 12 ORKNEY, two subscription Societies for the relief of the indigent or destitute sick. Poor and Parochial Funds. — This parish, like all the rest in the county, has been hitherto exempt from the evils of legal assess- ment. The poor receive relief from the parochial funds at the dis- posal of the kirk-session, from the revenue of an estate in the pa- rish, which the Crown, as ultimus hosresy vested in trustees for cha- ritable purposes, and from another fund in the management of the town«council. The United Secession Congregation also afford relief to their own poor.- The average number of poor on the kirk-session's permanent roll is 81^, and the average rate of relief to each per annum is from 2s. to L.l, 10s. Besides these, an average number of 32^ receive occasional relief, amounting to L.7,0s. Sd. per annum, and from L.5 to L.7s, 10s. have been expended annually on the education of poor children. The funds under the administration of the kirk-session arise from church-door collections, averaging L.d9, Ss. 8d. per annum ; donations, and dues arising from marriages and burials. Prisons. — There is one prison connected with the town-house, not of the best description ; but a new one is in contemplation un- der the late Prison Act. Inns. — Of these there are several, but one only adapted for the accommodation of respectable travellers. Fairs. — There is one fair, commencing on the first Tuesday after the 11th August, and continuing a fortnight. Fuel — The principal fuel is English coal ; but peats procured in this and the adjacent parishes are much used by the poor. June 1841. PARISH OF ORPHIR. PRESBYTERY OP CAIRSTON, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. THE REV. JAMES ANDERSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The name Orphir, formerly written Orfer, is said to be of Norwegian origin, and to signify ^re land^ or mossy soil Situation. — The parish lies west of Kirkwall on the mainland; and the church and manse are about nine miles distant from Kirkwall. Boundaries^ Sfc, — It is bounded on the west and north, by the parishes of Stenness and Firth, from which it is divided by a range of high hills ; on the east and south, by the parish of Kirkwall, the bay of Seal pa, and the sea that intervenes between it and the pa- rish of South Ronaldsay, from which it is distant about twelve miles. The average length, by accurate measurement, is 6 miles, 6 fur- longs, and 200 yards ; average breadth, 2 miles, 5 furlongs, and Id yards ; and it contains about 18 square miles. The length along the coast, from Claistran to Scalpa is 13 miles, 7 furlongs, and 13 yards; the length, on the land boundary, is 10 miles, 2 fur- longs, and 40 yards. The circumference of the whole is 24 miles, 1 furlong, and 53 yards. Topographical Appearances, — From Houton head, the south- west point, there is a succession of hills and valleys north-east, not only through the whole length of the parish, but to the oppo- site shore of the mainland, where the parishes of Kirkwall and Firth meet. Mountain Ranges. — Houton head is about 300 feet above the level of the sea. The next hills in succession rise gradually ; and the Wart hill, which is the highest of the whole, is about 700 feet. From the top of this, when the sky is clear, there is a very ex ten • sive, varied, and delightful view, not only over the greater part of the county, but also along the west coast of Caithness, from Dungs- bay head to Cape Wrath, and over several of the loftiest hills in the interior of Caithness and Sutherland. The scene is also 14 ORKNKY. agreeably varied by the frequent view of ships passing through the Pentland Frith, and vessels belonging to the country, on their departure and return. The eagle is frequently seen soaring high over the hills, and sometimes darts on the poultry about the far- mers' houses. Valleys. — As the parish is bounded on the west by a succession of hills and valleys, these valleys began to be cultivated soon after the division of the common, which took place in 1818, at the in- stance of the late Sir William Honyman, the principal proprietor; and twenty-six small farms have been cultivated in these valleys, where there had been no dwelling-house before. In these valleys, the soil is in general rich and deep, and yielded rich crops from their first cultivation. In different parts of the valleys, the culti- vation has not yet been carried to the extent that it admits. There are small burns issuing from springs, and running in a south- easterly direction. At their sources, the ground is comparatively steep, and becomes more level, as they approach the shore. Caves. — These are few, and excite no great interest in the mind of the spectator. In Houton head, there is a small cave in the face of the rock, the mouth of which is about 90 feet above flood mark, narrow at the entrance, but widening, and becoming higher towards the inner extremitv, which extends to the distance of about 14 feet from the mouth. It acquired some celebrity in 1808, from affording a temporary shelter to two young men in the neighbour- hood, who endeavoured to escape from being impressed. Nearly a mile east from the church, there are three small caves in the face of the rock Bernory, which rises to the height of about 80 feet One of them may be entered on foot at low water, and extends but a small distance under the rock. The other two can be approached only by boat, extend farther under ground, and at the lowest ebb the sea is about two fathoms deep at their mouths, becoming more shallow as the caves recede from the shore. The sides are irregular, composed of sandstone ; the roof a coarse spe- cies of freestone, and in general flat; the sides converging towards the top. On the sides and in the crevices, a few wild pigeons build their nests, and lodge at all seasons. On the side of Scalpa bay, near the line of boundary between this parish and the parish of Kirkwall, there is a cave called the Salt Pans, running parallel to the shore to the distance of twenty paces. The front has the appearance of freestone pillars at irregu- lar distances about five feet high. Above and below, and also behind 4 ORPHIR. 15 these pillars, there are rocks of harder stone. The name is sup- posed to have arisen from the practice of manufacturing salt by boiling the salt water ; but no such manufacture is now remember- ed to have been carried on at the place. Coast — From Houton head, westward to the parish of Strom- ness, the coast is nearly level, and for the most part wholly so. The banks nowhere rise above ten feet, and consist of thin strata of sandstone. Hero the strata dip to the east and north. Be- low flood-mark, some parts are sandy, others covered with small pebbles, and frequently with rugged rocks, on which grows a con- siderable quantity of tang, of which kelp is made. At Houton head, the strata dip to the west and south. From this, eastward, is a succession of small bays, in some degree cor- responding to the valleys on the west. The shores of these bays are in some cases sandy, but more generally covered with pebbles, and in some cases the banks are from 1*2 to 14 feet high. The headlands between the bays generally rise to a greater height : the highest, however, do not exceed 40 feet, and few of them reach 30. There is nothing particularly striking in the appearance of these bays and headlands. The strata in the headlands, which con- sist commonly of grey slate or greywacke, are generally regular, though in some cases they have a waving direction, and sometimes there is a perpendicular line of junction, where the strata, on each side of this line, rise a little, as if compressed by some external force during their formation. Here, the strata dip to the west and north. In the bay of Swanbister, which is the largest of the whole, and nearly two miles broad, there is a sandy shore ; and a consi- derable number of cockles and some spouts are obtained during stream tides. Island. — Cava, the only island, is about a-mileand a-half south- east of Houton head. There are only twenty Scots acres cultivated in it, and these lie in the middle on the south side. It contained twenty-one inhabitants at last census. The cultivated soil is a rich black loam, producing excellent crops, both of oats and bear, there being abundance of sea-weed for manure. Part of what is unculti- vated consists of excellent peat moss. The rocks around the shore are chiefly common sandstone, freestone, and some limestone. Thecircumferenceof the island is 3 miles, 1 furlong, and 80 yard?* The holm of Houton lies in the bay of Houton, not a quarter of a mile in length and less in breadth ; it is covered with a coarse kind of grass used for pasture. Part of it was cultivat- 16 ORKNEY, ed, a few years ago, for one season ; but the soil being near tne rock, and the summer dry, the crop was poor, and therefore the cultivation was discontinued. The channel which separates the holm from Houton head becomes dry for about two hours at low water. The inlet on the side next to the church admits sloops into the bay, even at low water. For many years past, it has been in contemplation to convey the mail from Thurso, by a decked vessel, direct to the bay of Houton, from whence runners could bring it soon to Kirkwall and Stromness. This bay was lately surveyed for the purpose, but the result is not yet known. There is a small skerry, about two miles south-east of the church, called, the barrel ofbutter^ the origin of which name is said to be, that the tenants on the lands of the Bull, which surround the church, paid to the proprietor a rent of a barrel of butter for the privilege of killing seals on this skerry. It is never completely covered by the sea at stream tides. There is a spot of coarse grass in the middle. On this, seals are seen to bask on a sunny day, but of late, no attempt has been made to disturb their repose. Hydrography^ — The frith between Houton head and the island of Walls, is about four miles broad. By this, all vessels from the south and east pass to Stromness, and approach either between the island of South Ronaldsay and the islands of Walls and Flotta, or by Holm sound. Springs. — There is a great abundance of copious springs of pure water. '^Fhere are also a few chalybeatesi which are reckoned salu- tary and beneficial in nervous complaints. Lakes. — There is but one lake ; the lake or loch of Kirbister, 1 mile, 1 furlong, and 116 yards long; circumference, 2 miles, 3 furlongs, and 170 yards; surface, 180 Scots acres; the depth va- ries from 3 to 9 feet It is supplied by small burns in various di- rections ; and near the south-east, there is an excellent mill. It abounds in small trouts, which are taken by hooks and flies by the people in the neighbourhood : and anglers from Kirkwall occasion, ally resort to it in summer. Geology. — The rocks along the shore are nowhere high, few above 30 feet They are generally of sandstone ; in soma places, slaty. In the bay at the church, at low water, there pire several rocks of the schistose kind, running nearly in a south and north direction, about six feet in breadth, rising from their bed about two feet, sloping on the sides, and exhibit- ing in the middle the appearance of having been pressed to- OHPHIR. 17 getherin their formation, by some very powerful force from beneath. The distance between these ridges is from four to five feet, 'there are several of these ridges, and they run parallel to each other. On the west side of this bay, there is a rock of this kind of stone, from 25 to dO feet high; and about the middle, there is a perpen- dicular line where the junction exhibits signs, on each side, of great pressure in the formation. Of the freestone, some is coarse grain- ed, and some fine and white. The shores of Swanbister, belong- ing to Thomas Sands, Esq. abound in this last,' and are carried to Kirkwall and Stromness, for various purposes. There was lately discovered a quarry of excellent gray slate on the side of the hill of Midland next to Houton, at an elevation of about 400 feet, belonging to Hector MoncriefT, Esq. of Houton. In summer 1834, 6000 slates were sent to Kirkwall and South Konaldsay ; 1835, 12,000 were sent to the same places ; and last summer, about 12,000. Soil. — In the fields, which have been longest in cultivation, the soil is generally a rich black loam, yields fair crops of corn, rich natu- ral grass ; and ryegrass and clover have been tried with success. In some parts, the soil is a cold clay ; but a large proportion is sandy and shallow, over rocks of sandstone, and yields light crops. Birds, — The chief of these are : hawks (Falco), both dark- brown and grey. Owls {Strix ulula)^ dark- grey. The royal eagle ( Falcofulvus). Crows {Corvus cornix). The starling (Sturnus)^ thrush {Turdus)^ wagtail (Motacilla alba), lark (Alauda arven- sis), linnet (B'ringilla), swallow (Hirundu), cuckoo {Cuculus canO' rus)i landrail (Rallus crex), wild pigeon {Columba cenas), moor- fowl (Tl Scoticus), plover {Charadrius). — Of water-fowls are gulls (Larus ridihundus), wild goose (Anas aiiser), duck {A. boschas)^ solan goose {Pelecanus Bassanus), puffin (AIca arctica), auk (^. torda)y crane (Grus). Fishes, cj-c. — Haddock (Gadus JEgleJinm), cod {G.morhua), ling (G. Molva), skate (/?««>), dog-fish {Squalus Acavthias,) eel {Murana anguiUa), whiting (G. merlangus), mackerel (Scomber), tvtrbot {Pleuronectes hippoglossus), flounder (P. Jlesus), coalfish (G. carbonarius), trout (Salmo Jario). — Shell fish; cockle (Car-- diurn), razor or spout-fish (Solen), lobster (Cancer gammarus), crab (C. pagurus), and buckies of various species. Ilepiiles, cjc. — The frog (Rana), toad (Bufo), are sometimes to be seen, though rarely, particularly the latter. Gnats or midges are ORKNEY. B 18 ORKNEY. very numerous in the warm summer evenings, and often trouble* some to those occupied in the open air. Botany, — There is a great variety of plants in the pasture and meadow grounds, and they are general over the whole county ; some of which are, mint (MerUha)^ marsh marigold (Caltha palus^ tris)^ thyme (Thymus serpyllum), foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)^ scurvy-grass (Cochlearia afficinalis)^ water-cresses (Nasturtium officinale)^ cranesbill (Geranium cicutarium), trefoil (Lotus comi^ culatus\ coltsfoot (Tussilagofarfara), There are no trees except a few in gardens, which become stunted when they rise above the walls. The willow (Salix repens^) is found in low ground along rivulets ; also (angustifolia^) but this appears to have been planted. Hazel-nuts have been, of late, turned up by the plough, though none of the trunks have been discovered. Whins ( Ulex EuropceuSf) are found in some places, and no doubt is entertained that they have been raised from seed. Turnips of different kinds thrive well, as also carrots and cabbages. The soil and climate seem abundantly favourable for leguminous crops. II. — Civil History. Earl Paul, the second of that name, who lived towards the close of the eleventh century, had a magnificent palace in this parish, the ruins of which are still perceptible on the shore of Swanbister. • Eminent Men, — The late Sir William Honyman, Lord Arma- dale, an eminent Judge in the Court of Session, was a native of this parish, and the principal landed proprietor in it. The resi- dence of his ancestors was in the Hall of Claistran. Murdoch Mackenzie, Esq. author of the Charts, though a na- tive of Kirkwall, was proprietor of Groundwater in this parish, and of lands in different parts in this county. Thomas Mackenzie, Esq. the present proprietor, is his direct descendant. Parochial Register, — The earliest date of baptisms is 1711 ; of marriages, 1718; of deaths, 1817. This last was begun, in con- sequence of the express orders of the General Assembly. Antiquities, — Besides the ruins of Earl Paul's palace, already mentioned, there are, in various places along the coast, from Hqji- ton-head eastward, the ruins of various buildings, which are sup- posed to be the remains of Popish chapels, and have nothing strik- ing in their appearance. There are three tumuli which have not been opened, — one near the church on level ground, — another near the manse, a little more elevated ; and both may be seen from OBPHIR. 19 the third, which is on the top of the highest hill. There is no tradition 'concerning them. Buildings, — The Hall of Claistran is a double house of modern construction, at present occupied by a tenant. The principal landed proprietors have neat comfortable dwellings and commo- dious gardens, in which a good deal of taste is displayed. As the farms are in general small the dwelling-houses correspond with them, being built of stone and clay, and sometimes not plastered on the inside, with the fire-place in the middle of the floor, or to* wards the inner end of the apartment, where the family usually sit, with a stone fence of from four to five feet high, and about the same breadth, on the inner side of which the fire is placed. In later times, some improvement in these erections has taken place. nt — Population. In 1795, the population was 826 1811, . 889 1821, 917 1831, . 996 By the list census. 1841, the number of males is 482 ; females, 582; total, 1064 The average of marriages for the last three years, • 17 baptisms, . . 16|- iusane persons, . . 1 Males. Females. Total. Number of souls in 1831 below 15 years of age, . 178 169 847 from 15 to 30, . . 106 123 229 30 to 50, . . 89 134 223 50 to 70, 60 77 137 above 70, 27 33 60 460 536 996 The average of marriages for the last seven years, 6f baptisms, . . . . 18^^ Number of bachelors and widowers above 50, . . 15 unmarried women above 50, exclusive of widows, 12 insane persons, .... 1 Character^ ^c. of the People. — They are active, industrious, fru- gal, cheerful, and contented, quiet and social in their disposition. It is rare to hear of any quarrel amotig them. They have, in ge- neral, a deep sense of the principles of religion, and their punctual attendance on public worship, their decency of behaviour, and close iattention while there, are exemplary. It follows that intemperance, or petty thefts are rarely heard of, and those who are addicted to such habits, are treated with the contempt they deserve. The number of artisans is considerable. Many of the young men are much occupied in winter, in making shoes for themselves and others. Weavers and tailors have abundance of employment. There is a great number of masons, and several of them go in sum- mer to work in the neighbouring islands. There are several joinerSi 20 ORKNEY. 3 smiths, and I cooper. Most of the artisans have small farms, but not sufficient to maintain their families. Almost all the young women have, for many years, been employed in winter in plaiting straw for bonnets. The habits of the people are gradually improving. There is, however, a propensity among the young of both sexes to extrava- gance in dress. Umbrellas are in general use. English cloths, prints, and merinos are common. While kelp was in demand, and brought a high price, a consi-* derable number of men and young women was employed in the manufacture of it ; but now little is done in this way. The young people are usually prudent enough in entering into matrimony, and seldom take this step, until they have a tolerable prospect of the means of subsistence. An unfortunate habit, however, has long prevailed among some of the young men, of going in the winter evenings to tippling-hoUses. This, doubt- less, operates unfavourably in various ways, and deprives the in- dividuals of that respectability of character to which they would be entitled, from their industry and economy in other respects. Resolutions were issued by the county gentlemen a few years ago, to put a stop to such practices, by diminishing the number of licens- ed ale-houses. Their resolutions, however, have not yet produced the salutary effect intended. A Sunday school was commenced some time ago, which, it is hoped, will have a very beneficial influence. IV. — Industrv. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The greater part of the farms are from six to eight Scots acres in extent, and at a rent of from lOs. to 15s. per acre, according to the quality of the soil. The common rotation is oats and bear, with a few potatoes : of these, seldom more are raised than what the family requires. Some also raise a few turnips for family use. There are three large farms, paying a rent of from L.50 to L.80 each. On these, there is a rotation of rye- grass and clover, which are not broken up for two or three years : then oats, next potatoes or turnips, and then bear, with which the grass and clover are sown. The greater part of the first year's crop of sown grass is cut for hay, and the field is after- wards used for pasture. Wheat has been tried, but with indiffer- ent success. In some cases, it grew luxuriantly, but was never well filled or fully ripened. In ordinary seasons, it is common to see ORPHIU. 21 the fields cleared against the end of Septennber, and a late crop is always an inferior one. Breeds of Live-Stock. — The black-cattle are, in general, such as are common over the county ; and, as an over-stock is frequently kept, they have rather a stunted appearance. A few of what are called the Dunrobin breed have been introdu- ced, and though they do not grow to a large size, they have a sprightly appearance. The price of the latter, compared with the former, is usually as L. 5 to L. 3. The native horses are generally of a small size. Those on the larger farms are of a superior breed, and, compared with the former, may be rated about two to one &s to price, that is as L.8 to L. 16. The native sheep are of a small size, live on the common at all seasons, — on the hills in summer, and along the shore in winter : they are never housed. At Lammas a wedder brings about 5s. A few Cheviots have been tried, but have not thriven well, except on the larger farms. These, io their best condition, bring L.1, Is. each. Husbandry^ — The one- stilt plough, drawn by three horses, was used on some of the smaller farms, about twenty-five years ago. It is now wholly out of use. Though it had a clumsy appearance, it had this advantage, that it broke the ground in some soils more completely than those now in use. Iron ploughs are coming into use, and are expected to prove more economical than those made of wood. There are a few leases for nineteen years, but they are more generally for shorter periods, fourteen, eleven, or seven years. Very few of the farms are inclosed except the larger ones. The method of preparing the crop for drying when cut, before it is put into the stack, deserves attention. 1'he band of the sheaf is made in the usual way and pulled by the root, except when the crop is luxuriant, and then it is cut. The sheaf is made of rather a large size. The band is drawn nearer the crop end than the root, and when the ends are pulled and crossed, they are then twisted and turned with dexterity so as to rest against the sheaf, but the ends thus twisted are not turned within the band. The sheaf thus formed is set on end by itself, and the root end spread out a little. It is so placed, that the root end of the band is on the lee- side, from whatever quarter the wind is blowing at the time, and the crop of the sheaf gets a gentle pressure to the lee-side also. The sheaf thus placed is not apt to fall, and after having stood live or six days in this position, in favourable weather, it is fit for being screwed, that is, for being built into ricks on the field. These 22 ORKNEY. ricks consist of twenty-four sheaves, which when put together re- ceive the name of threave. The two last sheaves of the rick are put across each other, and so tied together by portions of them* selves, that they are not apt to fall even when the wind is "high. The ricks, after standing for a week, in favourable weather, are fit for the stack. It is obvious, that, in rainy harvests, which are frequent in this climate, this method of placing the sheaves and ricks is most favourable for preserving the grain from being in- jured by the heavy falls of rain. The consequence is, that the crop is rarely injured, in harvest, to any great degree, in the most unfavourable weather. Fisheries. — The principal fishing, of late years, has been of herring. About thirty years ago, herrings were got in Scalpa Bay for a few days in a season ; but more lately, they have not been sought for there, nor are they ever found on tliis coast. There are, however, eight boats, with four men each thus employed.* They repair to the island of Stronsay toward the end of July, and about two weeks after go to South Ronaldsay, where they remain about a month, or till the herrings leave the coast of that island. Vessels from Rothesay and from Ireland attend to receive the herrings, as soon they are barreled. The price for some years past has varied from 9s. to l'2s. per cran or barrel. The average, for each boat this season, has been fifty-five crans. About eighteen years ago, when the spirit of enterprise in this employment became prevalent, n boat completely riggest of the men, near the shore, are employed in catch- ing them. They are delicate and wholesome food at this age. Produce, — It would be difficult to ascertain, with any degree of • There are row, (I84l,) nine such bouts.. ORPHIR. 23 precision, the quantity of grain raised. Suffice it to say, that, be- sides supplying the demands of the parish, there are upwards of 240 bolls of meal and grain frequently sent, annually, to Kirkwall and Stromness; andin plentiful years, the tenants of the large farms send grain to the I^ith market. The average price of oat- meal is 2s. per stone of 17^ lbs. Avoirdupois, and of bear meal. Is. 6d. Both sometimes sell for less ; but after bad crops, both kinds of meal are imported, commonly from Leith, to Kirkwall and Strom- ness, to which supplies even some of the farmers are obliged to have recourse. When there is an extraordinary demand for black-cattle, from sixty to seventy head are sold, early in the summer, chiefly to far- mers from Caithness, at a price from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3. A few horses are sold at the Lammas market at Kirkwall, commonly to Caithness people, at from L.8 to L, 10; and some, in rare cases, bring double this price. Kelp Manufacture, — When kelp was in demand, there were about seventy tons manufactured annually. The tang, on the same part of the shore, was cut only once in the two years. Only about twenty tons have been manufactured annually for some years past, as the price has been small, being only L. 5 per ton at market, whereas it used to be from L. 10 to L. 12. This is a great loss to the proprietors, and also to the tenants who were employed in the manufacture. This loss is on the increase, as the tang, which is not cut once in two years, is apt to be so completely torn from the rocks by the winter storms, that it does not vegetate again. Navigation. — There is no sloop belonging to the parish. Be- sides the eight herring boats, and one lobster boat, there are 43 em- ployed in taking sillocks, kewths, and other fish ; 52 in all ; they are also employed in carrying farm produce to Stromness. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — The post crosses from Huna, in Caithness, to South Ronaldsay, where there is a post-office, and proceeds by a runner to Kirkwall and Stromness. There was no public road, by which a cart could pass, until about twenty years ago. Since that period, the statute labour has been employed in forming a public road ; and this has for some time pa^t been formed, and the greater part kept in a good state of repair. There is only one harbour, and it is situated in the Bay of llouton^ 24 ORKNEY. where sloops and larger vessels lie in safety, and are protected by the Holm from south and south-east gales. Ecclesiastical State, — The church stands on a bay, on the eastern shore, upwards of a mile east of Houton Head. The manse is delightfully situated on a rising ground, about half a mile west of the church, and well sheltered by hills on the west and north. The church was built in 1829, and contains 574 sit- tings, the accommodation allowed by law, and is every way com- fortable. The sittings are all free. The manse was built in 1789, and is in a good state of repair. The glebe, with hill pasture, would bring L. 15 of rent annually. The stipend is L. 150, of which L. 34, ds. 8d. is paid by Government annually. The num* ber of Dissenters is considerable, being, by a late census, 107 above fifteen years of age, and 142 below this age.^ They belong to the United Associate Synod« Part attend at Kirkwall, and part at Stromness. There is also one Baptist. The sacrament of the Lord's Supper is dispensed once a-year, in summer. The number of communicants is about 300, and about 100 attend on this occasion from neighbouring parishes. Collections are occasionally made for various purposes, and amount annually to from L. 1, 10s. to L. 2.f Education. — There are three schools ; one parochial, and two maintained by mortifications. The salary of the parochial school was, at the last augmentation, raised to L. 26. The fees, though fixed, are not demanded ; the master accepting, in place thereof, the gratuities, which may amount to from L. 5 to L. 6. The com- mon branches of education are taught, and the master has the legal accommodation. The Mortification schools were founded by natives. The first by Magnus Twatt, who lived and died in the service of the Honourable Hudson's Bay Company. He ap- pointed by his will the heritors and kirk-session patrons. This school has been in operation upwards of thirty years, and has a fund of L. 700 laid out on landed security. The other has been only two years in operation, and was founded by James Tait, who, after having been many years in Hudson's Bay, died in Strom- ness, soon after instituting the school. The sum left by him for this purpose is L. 100, and he appointed the kirk-session patrons. The Dissenters have increased in the same proportion a*^ the rest of the popu- lation, and are still about one-fourth of the popuktion, 184] t In 1840, L.8 were collected for the five schemes of the General Assembly, and L.4 were collected by subscription for cases of destitution. ORPHIR. 25 This sum is lent on landed security, and the teacher receives the interest as salary. He is bound to teach for only one-half of the year, from October to April. lie continues, however, teaching the whole year, in consequence of the liberality of the people. James Tait also left L. 100 to the parish of Stromness, for the satne purpose. Till of late, there were a few elderly people who could not read ; but, strange as it may appear, some of them could answer the questions of the Shorter Catechism correctly. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of the poor receiving supplies is 15, and distributions are made twice a-year, in March and August As their circumstances are nearly equal, they re- ceive 4s. or 5s. each at each distribution. The weeklv collections amount annually to from L. 9 to L. 10. There is a fund of about L. 50 at interest, which arose from savings from the collections, when the number of the poor on the list was less; and a donation of L. 10 from Lieutenant James Robertson, a native. The poor are not forward in applying for parochial relief, unless when their case is urgent. Inns, — There are three licensed inns, two of which retail ale only, and the other ale and whisky. The last is sufficient for the accommodation of travellers. The others are rather tippling- houses, and do -not contribute to the improvement of morals. Miscellaneous Observations. The progress of improvement since the publication of the last Statistical Account has been considerable. Green crops have in- creased a little, and will be more abundant when inclosing becomes more general. Much of the pasture grass around the old cultivated fields might be broken up to great advantage ; but this cannot be done, till green crops are more extensively raised. Some improve- ment in this respect may be expected, as the farmers' attention is now in a great measure witlidrawn from the manufacture of kelp. Every tenant has the privilege of hill pasture. The whole extent of the parish, exclusive of the Island of Cava, is 1250 Scots acres in cultivation ; pasture, 1960; common, 6394 ; in all, 9604 Scots acres. The rental was ascertained, a few years ago, to be L. 575. It was long the practice of many of the young men to go to Hudson's Bay as labourers and mechanics, as carpenters, black- sn)iths, and brick layers. Few have gone in later times, though the wages have been raised. A labourer receives L. 16 a-ycar 26 OUKNEY. annually, for the first three years, with maintenance, while em- ployed at the factories. A mechanic L. 25 a-year. The en- gagement is now for five years, and at the end of three years every one is advanced according to his merit. The great object was to save as much as might render his future days at home, easy and comfortable. Many of the young men also used to engage at Stromness for Greenland and Davis's Straits. There are only ten thus em* ployed, this season. The forming of the public road has been a great improvement^ so that carts are now in general use ; whereas, formerly, loads were carried on the backs of horses. The lately built cottages are much neater than the old ones. The division of the common is also an improvement, and has induced a few families to come from neigh- bouring parishes to settle where the ground may be cultivated. It is also pleasant to observe the importance given to education^ which will give the rising generation and their succeeding race a very great advantage over their forefathers. June 184 L PARISH OF STROMNESS. PRESBYTERY OF CAIRSTON, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. THE REV. PETER LEARMONTH, MINISTER. I, — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The most probable derivation of the name is from Sironii signifying strong, and Nestt^ a point of land : in fact, the tide runs with considerable strength off the point of land which forms a part of the parish. Topographical Appearances. — The parish is pleasantly situat* ed on the south-western extremity of the mainland, or Pomona^ as it is sometimes called, and probably commands the finest scenery in the group of islands with which it is connected. The view from the manse, or from the hill above it, has been much ad- mired. The Atlantic Ocean, contemplated from either of these places, whether in the stillness of a calm, or in the awful grandeur of a storm, is an object of the most magnificent nature* The hill STUOMNESS. 27 of Hoy, with the green island of Graemsay, which lies to the south, imparts a beauty to the scene, which, in clear weather, is often enhanced by the lofty mountains of Sutherland, which appear in the distance. Extent^ 8^c. — The length of the parish is about 5 miles : its breadth, df : and the square miles it contains, ]2|. The south - most point is in 58^ 56^ 50'" north latitude; northmost point, 59° 1' 10" north latitude. It is of an irregular figure, and is bounded by the Sound of Hoy on the south ; by the parish of Sandwick, on the north ; by the lake of Stetiness a\)d an arm of the sea, on the east ; and by the Atlantic, on the west. The hills are situated on the north-west ; are naked and barren, being destitute of plantations. Still, they have their beauty. They rise above the level of the sea, to the height of from 100 to 400 or 500 feet, — forming, at some places, a bold and elevated coast, on which the winds beat with tremendous fury, and often dash frail barks to pieces. There are various valleys, well cultivated ; and, being interspersed with meadow, they furnish hay for cattle in win- ter, and often compensate the deficiency of a scanty crop. There are no caves of any consequence, except one ; which has been rendered memorable from being the place where a ship* wrecked seaman was wonderfully preserved, during four days in the spring of 1834. This cave lies at the western extremity op- posite to Hoy Head, and is often visited by strangers since that event. It is called Johnson's cave, from the name of the seaman who was saved in it. Adjoining to it, and on the same line of coast towards Sandwick, the rock scenery is bold and romantic, afford- ing shelter and a safe brooding place for the numerous sea fowl which abound here. The only headland, called the Black Craig, is directly opposite to Hoy head, and is of great use to seamen in directing them to the sound of Hoy, which Hes between them — the only approach to the harbour of Stromness from the west. As this sound is of great importance to vessels, affording them a safe approach from the Atlantic to the harbour, to which, in stress of weather, they are frequently compelled to have recourse for shelter, — it may be proper to give a brief description of it. This cannot be more correctly done, than in the language employed by my predecessor, in his minute and interesting Statistical Account of this parish : " Along the west coast of Stromness, at one league's distance from the shore, there is 40 or 50 fathoms depth of water. There are no shoals in the channel of Hoy soimd, on the side next this pa- 28 ORKNEY. risli, but two, which may be avoided by keeping two cable lengths from the shore ; one of these shoals is visible at two hours' ebb. As the coast can be seen at a great distance, and there are no shoals but these two, which are not dangerous, there are conse- quently few vessels wrecked on this coast. The velocity of the spring-tides in Hoy sound, is seven miles in the hour, that of neap- tides, three miles. It is high or slack water in Hoy sound at ten o'clock on the days of new and full moon, and in the harbour of Stromness at nine o'clock. The flood sets from the north-west. An hour before flood is perceived in the channel of Hoy sound, a stream sets from the north, along the west coast, keeping this side of the sound, and continues in this direction ; at half-ebb, another stream sets from the south, along the south side of the sound, and continues till high water. These streams, when known and at- tended to, facilitate the entrance of shipping into the harbour of Stromness." Since tlie date of the Old Account, it appears that the increase of wrecks has been considerable. A light-house is greatly need- ed for the guidance of vessels through the Sound of Hoy : and we are happy to learn that this has attracted the attention of Her Ma- jesty *s Commissioners. H. — Civil History. It may be mentioned, that the greater number of vessels which our enlightened nation has sent out to explore the world, and extend the knowledge of geography and the boundaries of science, have, in ge- neral, remained some days in the harbour of Stromness. The Dis- covery ships which were commanded by Captain Cook, on their return from that memorable expedition which proved fatal to that illustrious navigator, lay here two weeks ; and the officers presented some of the inhabitants with various curiosities, which they fondly preserve as precious mementos of friendship. Sir John Franklin, distinguished alike for his piety and heroism, both ingoing out and returning from his northern expedition, remained here for some time. This parish was also the first place where Sir John Ross planted his foot on British earth, on returning from his last northern voyage, when it was thought by the nation at large, that that gallant officer had perished in the expedition. Land-owners. — The principal land-owners are, Thomas Pollex- fen, Esq. of Cairston; William G. Watt, Esq. of Breckness. There are also Crown lands. The number of heritors altogether, is 78, STUOMNESS, 29 Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers extend back to the year 1695; but they are neither voluminous, nor have they been regularly kept, — except under the former incumbent. Antiquities. — In the burial-place, there is the ruin of an old church, which probably was erected when Popery prevailed, or perhaps at a later period. Near it, there are the remains of a build- ing, which originally occupied a considerable space of ground, and is generally supposed to have been an establishment of monks, hence called Monk's House. About three-quarters of a mile to the west, stands a venerable building, which was erected by Bishop Graham, one of the last Bishops of Orkney under Episcopacy. Above the door, the bishop's initials, G. G., with the Episcopal arms, and the year of its erection, 1633, are inscribed. There are still tumuli to be seen in the parish. III. — Population. According to the Old Statistical Account, "in the year 1754, there were 1000 persons in the town of Stromness. In the year 1794, there were 1344 souls, and yet the whole population is about the same as that given in 1754; from which, it appears that the population of the country has decreased, in proportion as that of the town had increased. By an accurate census taken in June 1794, the population is as follows:" No. of Houses. No. of Families. Males. Females. Total. Stromness parish, 184 184 346 449 796 town, 222 ai2 493 851 1344 Total, 40H 526 839 1300 2139 Persons to a family in the parish of Stromness, nearly 4^. In the town of Stromness, nearly 4 to a family and 6 to a house. Proportion of males to females, parish of Stromness, nearly as 3 males to 4 females. Town, nearlv 12 males to 21 females. The great disproportion of males 4o females in the town of Stromness is occasioned by the young men going abroad to various parts of the world ; to the Greenland fishery, Hudson's Bay, the coal trade ; and many are to be found in his Majesty's navy." In 1831, the Government census gave the following results : — Males. Females. Inhabited Houses. Stromness burgh of barony, 2236 940 1296 385 parisli, 708 308 400 123 . The population is as follows, at present : — Number of people residing in the town of Stromness, . 2242 Landward part of the parish of Stromness, .... 760 The yearly average of births for the last seven years, . 80 deaths for the last seven years, ... 50 marriages for the last seven }cars, . . 18 30 ORKNEY. Tlic average number of persons under 15 years of age, • . 965 betwiit 15 and dO, * . 745 d0and50, . . 686 50 and 70, . 496 upwards of 70, . . . .110 Number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 or upwards, 7 unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 65 Unmarried women upwards of 45, ..... 90 Number of families, . *..*.' * ' ^^ Average number of children in each family in which there are children, nearly 4 Numtwr of inhabited houses, ...... 500 houses uninhabited, or now building, . . . 18 insane, 2 ; fatuous, 10 ; blind, 4 ; deaf, 2 ; dumb, 2. Notwithstanding the peculiar temptations to which the peo- ple of this parish are exposed, from the great influx of shipping and other circumstances, they are, upon the whole, a moral peo- ple. They are most regular in their attendance in the house of God ; and, though they come far short of that standard which the word of God prescribes, and many of them are indifferent to their eternal interests, there are still not a few who are alive to the great realities of eternity ; appreciate highly their precious privi- leges, and study to adorn the doctrine of God their Saviour in all things, by maintaining a life and conversation becoming the Gospel. At a former period, smuggling existed to some extent, with its demoralizing effects ; but now it is rare. IV. — Industry. Number of males employed in agriculture as farmers, as cottars. Farm servants, male, 22 — female, 22, Number of males employed in orersecing straw plait manufacture. Manufacturer of rope, .... Numlier of males employed in retail trade or in handicraft, Number of wholesale merchants, capitalists, bankers, professional persons, and other educated men, .... Number of female servants in town. Agriculture. — We believe the parish contains of standard imperial acres. Of this the arable land is, say . . . . Infield pasture capable of improvement, Undivided common, ...... The undivided common is capable of very little improvement, being mostly hill and moss; and there is much of it, that has been rendered incapable of cultivation, by the surface being removed from it for fuel and litter, — a practice which still prevails. Rent of Land, — The average rent of arable land per acre is 10s. Near the town, the inhabitants pay L. 2 for grazing a milk cow. Wages^ §'c. — The rate of labour varies, according to the kind of work, from Is. 4d. to 2s. 6d., without maintenance, for farm-la- 3 • 87 • 43 44 • 7 • 1 • 191 >ns, and • 40 • 66 8160 1865 908 5387 .8160 STROMNRSS. 31 bourers and country artisans. Price of an iron plough, L.t2, 2s. ; of a small cart, L. 4, 4s. Comparatively little attention has been paid to agricultural im« provement : the land is constantly cropped alternately with oats and bear, with only as much in potatoes as supplies the family* This must necessarily tend to impoverish the soil, and render it less productive. The leases being, in many cases, only from year to year, — the smallness of the farms, the wretched steadings, and the want of enclosures, — all combine to operate against the occu- pier as well as the proprietor* Indeed, there are many farmers who do not entirely depend upon the produce of their crops for paying their rent ; for they are often obliged to seek in the pro- lific sea, that subsistence which the earth would yield, were great* er care taken of it, and a better system of culture practised. Quarries. — There is a slate quarry on the west side of the parish, from which, it is observed, in the former Account, that from 30,000 to 40,000 slates were annually sold. ^^ They are strong, thick, last long, and are the best in the county." Slates are still taken from this quarry ; but, though they are better adapted to the climate than Easdale slates, they are in general not so much used, forming rather a weighty roof. There are no proper stone quarries. The stones which are used in the erection of houses are quarried from the shore, and conveyed to the town in large boats. Some years ago, a Company commenced working a granite quarry near the town, with the intention of shipping for a proper market ; but, though the granite was thought of a superior kind, the company, from want of capital, did not proceed with the undertaking. A lead mine was wrought, eighty years ago ; but the ore was not in sufficient quantity to defray the expense, and remunerate the worker. Fisheries. — During the three last years, a few enterprising indi- viduals have endeavoured to establish a herring-fishing station at Stromness ; and, though they have not been so successful as could have been wished, they are still resolved to persevere. Should they succeed, their undertaking will tend greatly to promote the prosperity of the town, and be of essential service to the fisher- men, as it will enable them to remain at home, instead of soias to other stations in the islands, — which must be attended with considerable expense. In the months of May and June 1837, there were about 2000 crans taken* There are, also, some boats employed every season, in the 32 ORKNEY. months of May and June, in fishing lobsters. At an average, for the last twelve years, there have been ll,6t^2 lobsters shipped annually for the London market, by Gravesend smacks, which call here twice a week during the fishing season. Some sloops engage in the cod fishing, — though this fishing is not carried on, nearly to the same extent as in some of the other Orkney Islands. - Manufactures, — Before the duty was taken off barilla, there was a considerable quantity of kelp manufactured ; but since the price has fallen so greatly, it scarcely remunerates the proprietor ; and the consequence is, that very little is now done in the manu- facturing of that article. Whether this will ultimately be ad van* tageous or disadvantageous to the country, is a question upon which a diversity of opinion prevails. We only remark, that proprietors evidently placed more reliance than they ought to have done, upon the manufacturing of that precarious article, and thereby neglected the improvement of their lands, which would have afforded them a more permanent benefit. There are a few straw plait manufacturers, who employ a num- ber of women intlre town as well as in the country. This manu- facture has been, for some time past, upon the decline ; and, being at all times dependent upon the caprice of fashion, has lately af- forded a scanty subsistence to the many young females who totally depend on it for their support. They are now allowed to plait in their own homes, which has been found more conducive to their health and morals, than doing so collectively, in the houses of the manufacturers, which was the original custom. — There is a small rope manufactory, where ropes of various kinds are made, both for the shipping and for country use. From the former Account, it appears there was a considerable quantity of linen and woollen cloth manufactured. This business has now wholly ceased here, being superseded by the perfect machinery now in use. Navigation. — The shipping belonging to Stromness has of late years greatly increased, and is at present in a very prosperous condition. The kind of vessel which is preferred is the schooner, which is found best suited for the trade in which it is employed. The owners seldom or never insure their vessels, and manv of them have succeeded well. The number of vessels belonging to the town is 23 ; 2 of them brigs, 1 8 schooners ; 3 sloops. Their tonnage amounts to 2132 tons. The following table, which the captain of the Coast-guard in SrROMNCSS. 33 Stromness has kindly handed to me, shows how much this com- modious harbour is resorted to by all kinds of vessels. Years. Months. No. of Tessels. Tonnage per month. Tonnage yearly. Remarks. To every one hun- dred tons, allow four men and one boy. 1835, October, - 36 6,G71 Nov. . 24 3,304 Dec. - 7 901 1836, January, 13 1,348 Feb. * . 10 1,606 March, . 42 6,927 April, May, . 83 20,123 - 19 2,657 June, . 34 3,655 July. . 34 3,666 August, . 51 6,579 Sept. - 28 2,670 1836, October, - 36 6,365 Nov. - 37 5,127 Dec. . 15 2,474 1837, Januar\% - U 1,070 Feb. - 13 2,029 March, - 10 3,047 April, May, - 31 5,479 - 24 3,092 June, - 17 2,290 July, - 32 2,543 August, . 71 6,819 Sept. - 62 6 J 82 October, . 49 7,947 Nov. . 43 6,684 Dec. - 29 4,401 1838, January, - 23 2,419 Feb. - 3 379 March, - 24 4,801 April, . 49 11,117 60,207 46,517 The Honourable Hudson's Bay Company's ships call here on their outward passage in the month of June, and take with them a number of men to be employed as labourers, artisans, &c. The average number of men who have here been hired yearly to go out to their settlements in North America, for the last four years, is from 35 to 40. Under the sanction of this Company, missionaries are sent out by the Church of England, and Wes- leyan Methodists. It would be of great consequence could a mis- sionary or two be sent out by the General Assembly of our church, as there are so many men there who belong to Orkney, by whom the boon would be greatly prized. For a long period, a number of whalers have called here to ob- tain their full complement of men for the whale-fishing at Davis' Straits; but lately, the number has considerably decreased. There ORKNEY. 34 ORKNEY. have been engaged, for the last seven years, on an average, 292 men annually. The number at one time was much greater* V. — ^Parochial Economy. The only town in the parish is Stromness. At the beginning of last century, it is observed in the former Statistical Account, *' it was an inconsiderable village, consisting only of half a-dozen houses with slated roofs, and a few scattered huts, the first inha- bited by two gentlemen of landed property, and two or three small traders, the last by a few fishermen and mechanics." In 1719, it was assessed by the burgh of Kirkwall, and continued tributary thereto till May 1743, when it sought to effect its freedom, and happily succeeded ; for, by a decision of the Court of Session confirmed by the House of Lords, it was fully emancipated, and thus became instrumental in obtaining freedom for the other villages in Scotland which had formerly been tributary to royal burghs. It has since rapidly increased in population and in trade, which is to be traced in a great measure to the safety and commodious- ness of the harbour, — on the west of which the town is situated. There are few places which afford a better or more beautiful site for the erection of a town. It is composed chiefly of one street, which extends three-quarters of a mile on the side of the harbour ; but the houses have been erected without any regular plan. The only object which the first proprietors appear to have had in view, in the erection of their houses, was to secure access to the harbour. Till very lately, the street was not sufliciently wide to admit of a passage for carts and other vehicles. Some improvements, how- ever, have lately been made upon the town, and especially upon the street. It still admits of many, and never can possess that regular appearance which its*fine situation so well deserves. In the year 1815, Stromness was constituted a Burgh of barony ; and two magistrates, with nine councillors, have since held autho- rity in it ; but having no funds, and there being no jail nearer than Kirkwall, their power is greatly curtailed. Means of Communication. — There is regular communication between this parish and Kirkwall three times a-week, by a gig which conveys the mail. Last June, a mail-coach commenced running, daily, in place of the gig. It was an interesting as well as a novel scene, to see a regular mail-coach in ultima Tliule, It is, however, a matter of regret, that such encouragement was not given as to enable the proprietors to continue running the coach during winter. STROMNESS. 35 The distance betwixt Stromness and Kirkwall, the only towns in the county, is about 1 5 miles ; and of late the road has been considerably improved. There is a post-office in town, and a south mail via Kirkwall arrive Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, when not detained at the Pentland Frith, which is often the case, especially in winter.* Enclosures are comparatively rare ; which, to a great extent, re- tards agricultural improvement. Cattle, horses, and swine, which are numerous, being allowed to go at large afler the crop is ga- thered in, greatly injure the fields in a climate subject to rains during so many months in the year. It also prevents the regular rotation of crops, which is so indispensable to proper farming. The estate of Cairston is, however, an exception. There is a considerable part of it well inclosed : it is also farmed on the most improved system, by the proprietor, Mr Pollexfen. It pos- sesses many beautiful fields, which yield hay, potatoes, bear, and oats, of a superior quality. In the vicinity of the town, a few pro- prietors have made some inclosures, which have increased the value of their property. ^ Harbour. — The harbour is one of the most commodious in the north of Scotland, and forms a safe retreat to all sorts of vessels. It is frequented during the winter and spring months by many ves- sels in the coasting-trade, as well as foreign vessels, which find in it a safe anchorage, and are well sheltered from the west wind, (which generally is most boisterous,) by a hill above the town. It lies on the east side of the parish, and is approached by the south, is about a mile in length, and somewhat less than half a mile in breadth. There are two beautiful little holms or small islands which bound the harbour on the east, and render the anchorage still more safe and secure. Upon the south side of the harbour, on the property of Ness, a patent slip, with the necessary apparatus, has been lately erected, capable of receiving a vessel of 400 or 500 tons. This was greatly needed, from the number of vessels which pass through the Pent- land Frith, and are often compelled to take refuge in the harbour, and to obtain the repairs which their disabled state requires. This slip was erected in April 1886 : and in the course of the three succeeding years, thirty vessels were received upon it and repaired, — their tonnage, 3368 tons. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is situate in the town, * There is now a daily mail. 36 , ORKNEY. the most convenient site for the mass of the population. The greatest distance from the extremity of theparish, is about five miles* It was erected in the year 1814. It is in a tolerable stale of re- pair ; but, being much exposed to violent storms, the roof almost every year requires repair. It has accommodation for 1200. There are forty free sittings, and two long seats, which extend along the greater part of the middle passage. The manse was erected in the year! 780. It underwent repair during the incumbency of ray predecessor, and before I entered it in the spring of 1833. The glebe, including what is occupied by house, garden, and a meadow, is about ten acres in extent ; if let, its rent would amount to about L.6 per annum. The stipend is the minimum, with L.8, 6s* 8d. for communion elements. There is no other church in the parish, except a small Secession church. The minister receives L.120 per annum, and L. 12 for communion elements. Divine worship is well attended both in the Established Church and in the Dissenting Chapel. ^ There are 1000 persons in communion with the Established Church. Of that number, about 900 communicate each time at the sacrament of the Lord's Supper, which is dispensed twice in the year. About 400 are in communion with the Secession. There is, in connection with the Established Church, a Bible and Missionary Society ; average amount of yearly contributions about L.20. There is also a Society of a similar nature in con- nection with the Dissenters. Of the amount of its contributions I am not aware. In general, we have three or four collections during the year for benevolent purposes, — in behalf of Sabbath schools and the As- sembly's schemes. Average amount about L.14. Education, — There are five schools taught by males and five by females in the parish. Eight of these schools are in the burgh. There is a parochial school ; but so situate, and so provided with accommodations, that its benefits do not extend to the town, nor to other populous districts of the country. We deeply regret to say, that, in this parish, the grand design of this excellent paro- chial institution is, in a great measure, defeated, and the young are deprived of that advantage to which they are entitled by the law of the land. There are two subscription schools in the town. The other STROMNESS. 37 schools depend upon the fees received. The five female schools are in the town, and the fees afford very inadequate support to the teach- ers. In the parish school the branches taught are, reading, writing, and arithmetic In the subscription schools, in addition to these branches, Latin, Greek, French, and mathematics are taught. The teacher of the other school in town has a class for Navigation, which is greatly required here. In the female schools, the com* mon branches, viz. English, writing, arithmetic, and' sewing are taught; and, in one or two of the most respectable, music and drawing. The parochial teacher has the minimum salary. The subscrip- tion school teachers receive about L.50 per annum. We believe there are few betwixt the years of six and fifteen who cannot read. In general, the parents, however poor, mako every efibrt to send their children to school for a short time, to be instructed in the elementary branches of education, especially reading. With respect to the fatherless, in most cases which have come under our notice, some benevolent person is found willing to get them instructed in reading. We feel called upon to say, that there are few places in Scot- land, with such a popuLation as Stromness, where there is such need of an efficient endowed school. There being no endowed school in the town, and the fees of the subscription ones being high, the poor are precluded from the benefit of proper instruction ; and when it is known that there are numerous widows (whose husbands have perished at sea), left with their large families helpless and de- pendent, unable to provide for their sustenance, far less to aflbrd them a good education, it must be evident, that, were a proper school with an endowment established, it would confer an invalu- able blessing upon an interesting but long-neglected community. It is hoped that something may be done for this place by the Ge- neral Assembly's Education Committee. The Sabbath school connected with the Established Church was instituted in the spring of 1830 ; and was attended at first by betwixt 200 and 300. It has since continued to increase and flourish, and for the last seven years has been attended by fully 300 scholars on an average. There are in ail twenty-six classes, which are instructed by male and female teachers, selected from the most pious and best inform- ed of the elders and members. A Sabbath school, numerously attended, is also regularly kept in the Dissenting church. 38 OBKNEY. Library. — A public library was established, nearly twenty years ago. It consists of a number of valuable books, and the leading reviews of the day. For some years past, novels have been ex- cluded, and works of a more solid character substituted in their place* The annual subscription is 7s. There is a Sabbath school library in connection with the Esta- blished Church, and also one in connection with the Dissenting congregation. Friendly Society. — Till very lately, a Friendly Society existed in the town, but it was some years ago dissolved. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of poor per- sons upon the roll who receive quarterly allotments, is 85. The highest allowance is 4s. per quarter : but in general 2s. or 2s. 6d. is the sum allotted quarterly. In addition to this, however, some allowance is made during winter for fuel ; and in case of sickness or old age, the elder of the district where the pauper resides is em- powered to give something additional. Our sole dependence for supporting the poor, is on the amount of collections made at the church doors on Sabbath, and the fees for proclamation of banns, and the use of mortcloth. The ordinary collections for the last eight years amount at an average to about L. 50 annually ; and extraordinary, to about L.20. In general the people are so very poor, that they evince no reluctance to seek parochial relief. There is no prison in Stromness. This greatly weakens the authority of the magistrates, and is unfavourable to the morals of this populous district. Were an efficient jail erected, it would in- timidate the lawless, and be an effectual means of preventing crime, and the lesser delinquencies. Inns. — In town, there are 4 inns, kept by respectable persons, in which good accommodation will be found, and every attention paid. In town, the number of houses in which spirits and beer are sold is 27, the number in which beer only is sold, 7 ; in all 34. Natural History Society. — Some time ago, a Natural His- tory Society was instituted in town, the object of which was to form a museum, and to collect specimens of the islands' produc- tions, birds, fishes, shells, &c. Considerable success has already crowned the laudable undertaking. A number of curiosities, do- mestic and foreign, have already been placed in the museum. A respectable collection of the birds, &c. of Orkney has been made ; and scon, it is hoped, the museum will be an object worthy of being inspected by the tourists who may visit this remote island. STUOMNESS. 39 The first annual Report has been published ; it contains a list of the curiosities, &c. which have been presented to the Institution. Fuel, — Peat is the fuel most generally used, and is procured from a moss in the parish. The inhabitants of the town are sup- plied in a great measure from the islands, where the peats are of a superior quality. The more wealthy and respectable families use coals, which are brought from Newcastle and Sunderland. MiSCELLANEOTTS OBSERVATIONS. Smce the former Statistical Account was published, many im- provements have taken place ; for instance, the increase of carts from 12 to 140, and of ploughs in the same proportion, demon- strates that there must have been some advancement made in agri- cultural improvement. Still, much remains to be done ; and un- less a better system of farming, and a regular rotation of crops, be adopted, more substantial and comfortable farm-steadings erected, and the lands to a certain extent enclosed, agriculture must remain stationary, and the peasantry cannot be raised to that respectabi- lity which is so desirable, and so conducive to the interest of the proprietor, and comfort of the tenant. The number of horses in the parish is 204; of ploughs, 91. The burgh has greatly increased in wealth and prosperity, dur- ing the last forty years, from the regular increase of the shipping. If the herring-fishing succeed, and a station be established, it will tend still further to promote the prosperity of the place. Drawn up 1839. Revised July 1841. UNITED PARISHES OF HOY AND GRiEMSAY. PRESBYTERY OF CAIRSTON, SYNOD OF KIRKWALL. THE REV. GAVIN HAMILTON, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Situation and Extent — The parish is of a triangular form, bounded by the parish of Walls on the south side; the parishes of Orphir, Stennis, and Stromness upon the east and north sides ; and the Atlantic Ocean to the westward. The parish from north-west to south-east is about 9 or 10 miles long, and in general is about 6 miles broad. It may be called a very hilly or mountainous dis- trict One of the hills in particular is so steep in many places as to be almost inaccessible. The land or arable ground in this place is generally wet and spongy ; the soil light, and better calculated for grass than for grain. Grsemsay is a very small island, — a mile and a half in length, and a mile in breadth. Its population in 1831 amounted to 225. IL — Civil History. There are no antiquities in the parish, besides the large stone mentioned in the Old Account. Parochial Registers. — These have been regularly kept since the year 1799. Land-owners. — The land-owners are, Robert Hedd)e,Esq.; John Balfour, Esq. ; Rev. G. Hamilton ; and Harry Cruickshank, Esq. III. — Population. Amount in 1801, . 223 1811, . 472 1821, . 508 1831, . 546 The amount of the population at present is 647. During the last three years, there have been no illegitimate births. IV. — Industry. AffricuUure.-^The average rent of land per acre is L.1, 5s. Real rent of the parish, L.800. SANDWICK. 41 There have been no recent improvements in the agriculture of the parish which call for notice. Wood is entirely wanting. Fisheries. — The herring-fishing is carried on in this parish to some extent, — seven boats being employed in it. V. — Parochial Economy. EccUsiastical State, — The whole population is connected with the Established Church. The stipend is the minimum. The glebe is five acres arable in extent, and as many in pasture : value, L.10. The manse Was built in 1798, and is at present in a good, habitable condition. Education, — There are three schools in the parish : and none more are required. The salary of the parochial teacher is the minimum, and his fees do not exceed L.5 per annum. Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 10. The average yearly amount of contributions for their re- lief, L.4, 10s. : all of which is from church collections. July 1841. PARISH OF SANDWICK. PRESBYTERY OF CAIRSTON, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. THE REV. CHARLES CLOUSTON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name Sand wick is no doubt derived from the sandy bay, which is the principal one on the west coast between Strom- ness and Birsay, wick signifying a bay. Extent and Boundaries. — The extreme length of the parish is fully 6 miles : but various calculations and measurements convince me that its mean length is about 4^ miles, and its mean breadth about 3f. It is bounded by Birsay on the north ; by Harray and the loch of Stenness on the east ; by the same loch and Stromness on the south ; and by the Atlantic on the west. Hillsy Sfc. — This parish cannot be denominated mountainous, nor even hilly, when compared with the neighbouring ones, being more flat and cultivated than any of them ; but a range of hills forms its west boundary except at the bay ; and from these the 42 OUKNEV. liills of Gyran and Lingafiold* stretch eastward near its south side, and those of Vestrafiold and Yonbell at its north boundary. These, as well as the lower lands and valleys remote from the sea, slope gently eastward towards the loch of Stenness, forming part of that extensive amphitheatre in the centre of the west mainland, the area of which is little elevated above the loch. Vestrafiold, or the west hill, is the highest, and may be about 300 or 400 feet above the level of the sea. A little east of the Sandy bay are eminences or low sandy hills, called Sandfiold and Kierfiold, which seem to be formed in a great measure of the sand blown from the bay by the west wind, which is prevalent and violent. The latter of these hills was formerly considered beautiful for its verdure, as it was covered with grass to the summit, but for some years it has been forced to submit to the plough, and I suppose it is more profitable, though less pleasing to the eye than formerly. Coast^ Cavesj ifc, — The west coast extends about four miles and a half, and is precipitous at all places except the bay, the highest part being between 200 and 300 feet perpendicular. There are many caves on the coast that form the favourite retreat of pigeons. The softer portions of rock being washed away much more quickly than the harder, there are many deep indentations, or " geoes," as they are called, where the soft parts have given way, and in some cases the hard portions still remain as insulated pillars, within a stone throw of the precipice, forming very picturesque objects ; but the most remarkable thing produced in this manner is the Hole of Row, which is a high natural arch through the peninsular crag forming the south side of the bay, caused by two whin dikes, occurring so near each other, that the intervening strata have been pulverised and washed out by the sea, as high as its waves had power to do so. Immediately south of the arch, the stones on the top of the precipice are arranged like those on a beach by the force of the waves, and, on the top of one of these crags, I once picked up a lump of India-rubber covered with barnacles. Not far from Row, on' the nearest part of the coast, is an immense rock, which is well known to have been carried a considerable distance by the sea ; it is 16 feet long, 6 broad, and 3 thick, and weighs, according to my calculation, about 24 tons. Meteorology. — I have kept a register of the weather for the Ijist twelve years ; the latter half only in this parish, and the former • Fiold incaiiK hill. RANUWICK. 43 in the mange of Stromness, where there ia do great difierence in the clitnate. As the temperature and pressure of the atmosphere, the direc^on and force of the wind, with the state of the weather, were noted twice a-day, at ten a. m. and ten p. m., during all that period ; it would occupy too much space to insert the whole of that register here ; but the following tables, showing the mean state of the barometer and thermometer far each month and year, may be interesting, as applicable to Orkney in general, and must be pretty accurate, being formed from extensive data. 44 ORKNEY. Table showing the mean monthly and annual temperature, fpoD) Jd27 till 1838, inclusive, with the mean temperature of all these twelve years, which may be considered the mean tempe- rature of our climate. 1827, 1828. 1829, 1830, 1831, 1832, 1833, 1834, 1835, 1836, 1837, 1838, Jan. 35.09 40.22 36 14 37 96 36.70 41.49 37.14 38 90! 39.75 39.14 38.82| 33.56 Feb. 35.09 38 82 39.46 36.71 37.71 4222 38.37 40.21 3948 37.46 39.32 31.31 Mar. 38.59 41.45 40 69 41.83 42 65 42.22 38.68 41.11 41.20 39.61 36.54 38.64 April. 43.83 43.60 41.51 44.80 44.88 46.24 4a2S 43.05 42.25 41.39 39.13 39.23 May. June- 49.16 45.30 49.99 50.77 48.70 47.31 51.43 48 75 46.01 47.77 45.24 44.75 July. 5a40 56.04 53.43 51.66 56.13 54.73 51.60 56.02 51.76 52.03 51.06 48.20 .Month. 37.90 3S.01 40.26 42.76 4793' 53. 17 55 20 5472 52.431 48.761 42.681 41.281 46.25 55.61 58.25 57.12 56.14 57.86 54 25 54.73 58.03 53.57 52 51 50.56 53.86 Aug. 55.04 57.26 54.36 53.14 56.07 52.40 56.89 54.77 51.83 5a 75 52.28 Sept. 54 331 55 41 50.21 5a46 54.73 52.61 5234 52.90 53.01 48.35 51.58 50.28 Oct. 50.95 54.19 45.56 49.41 51.73 49.38 49.20 48.07 45.70 45.91 49.36 45.77 Nov. 43.11 45 53 41.40 42.76 40.50 45.43 4158 44.01 45.68 40.93 41.59 39.71 Dec 4a24 43.24 39.51 36.33J 44.07 41.40 39.28 45.17 40.44 38.57 42.44 41.781 An. 46.45 4a27 45.78 46 24 47.88 47.77 45.83 47.92 46.13 44.62 44.94 43.26 Of meteors, the polar lights are the most remarkable here, * being often extremely brilliant and beautiful. The west or south-west wind is understood to be the strongest, and the stone and lime on that side of a house most exposed to it, are generally the first to give way. A gale from that quarter is frequently prognosticated by the great swell of the sea, which ragos even during a perfect calm. On this subject, I take the liberty of repeating an observation, which I have made elsewhere.* " This great swell, or * sea,' as it is here called, generally indicates a storm in a distant part of the ocean, which may reach Orkney a day or two afterwards ; hence, on the west coast, this great swell is con- sidered a prognostic of west wind. From this we infer, 1^^, that the agitation caused by the wind on the surface of the ocean tra- vels faster than the wind itself; and, 2c^, that the breeze begins to windward, and takes some time to reach the point towards which it proceeds to leeward, which tends to overturn the usually received theory as to the cause of winds. Sometimes, however, the distant slorm which causes this agitation does not reach these islands at all." In proof of this, I may mention, that, in August ] 831, from the 9th to the Idth inclusive, the great swell of the sea is remarked in my register, every day being also marked calm, with the barometer high and steady. Afterwards, however, I learnt that on the 7th and 8th of that month, there was a gale in latitude 57^ 21' north, longitude 13^ 15' west, which damaged a vessel that put back to Stromness to repair; and on the 1 1th it began at Bar- * Guide to the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, p. C29. SANDWICK. 45 badoes, and devastated that and other West India islands ; but the gale never reached Orkney, though its effects on the sea were so conspicuous. Climate, — Our insular situation prevents the extretlies of tem- perature that are felt in continents of such a high latitude, the surrounding ocean tempering the heat of summer, and the cold of winter ; so that for more than twelve years, the thermometer has only once fallen so low as Id"" of Fahrenheit, and the snow does not lie so long here, as in the more inland parts of the south of Scot- land, or, I believe, the north of England. Indeed, the mean tem« perature of every month was above the freezing point, except that of February 1838. Our mean annual temperature is 46^ 25', and the mean height of the barometer 29.640, as will be seen from the annexed tables ; but the nature of our climate will be more cor- rectly understood by comparing the mean temperature of each month, as there stated, with that of other places. The highest hill commands an extensive view, not only of the west mainland, but of part of the north and south isles, and from it, and other elevated grounds, may be seen the hills of Hoy, terminat- ing in stupendous precipices ; and, in calm and clear weather, those of Sutherland in the distance, stretching out towards Cape Wrath, add much to the beauty of the scene ; but during a storm from the west it is awfully grand. The huge accumulations of water that then roll after each other, foaming with terrible vio- lence to the shore, impress the mind with their irresistible power, and might well give a stranger a feeling of insecurity ; and, when they dash themselves against the precipice, it seems half sunk, for a time, like a wrecked vessel amid the waves ; sheets of spray are thrown far up into the air, and carried over all the country, making springs a mile from the coast brackish, for some days, and encrust- ing every thing with salt, even fifteen or twenty miles off. I am told by those living a few hundred yards from the spot, that the floors of their cottanfes are shaken bv the violence with which the waves strike the crags; and I have seen innumerable sea insects alive on their summits, and even a limpet adhering to them after such a storm ; also numerous fragments of the slaty stone, some of them a foot long, which had been whirled into the air, and had penetrated six inches into the soil in falling. Our climate, in short, is more remarkable for dampness and storms, than for cold ; the atmosphere being often loaded with sea spray in winter, and moistened with the constant evaporation in summer. Pulmonary and rheumatic complaints seem to be pre- 46 OUKNEY. valcnt, owing to this peculiarity of the climate, and our sudden and frequent changes of weather. Some cases of cramp may also be ascribed to the dampness; and a neighbouring clergyman, who is afflicted with loss of voice, has, more than once, been immedi- ately cured by the air of Edinburgh. Dyspeptic complaints are very common among the peasantry, but they are probably caused by poor diet. Hydrography. — The Atlantic flows up into the bay on the west side, for about half a mile, and the Loch of Stenness, about a mile on the east, leaving little more than two miles at one place, be- tween these two great waters. The Loch of Skaill olr Aith, which is nearly a mile long, and half that breadth, lies nearly in this space ; and the Loch of Glumly, which is more than half of these dimensions, is a little south of that line. These lochs are of no great depth or importance, and contain no fish except eels ; but tjio two latter turn mills, on their passage to the sea and Loch of Stenness, and they relieve the tameness of the scenery, — their tturfuce, when smooth as a mirror, forming a striking contrast to the troubled ocean hard by ; and the sunset in fine summer even- ings is most splendid, as seen from the manse, when the rays are reflected from the sea, and also from one of the lochs. Geology and Mineralogy. — Having been requested by neigh- bouring clergymen to include their parishes in the description of the natural history of my own, some branches of it will be found more general in their application to other parishes, than would otherwise have been necessary or proper. This is particularly the case with the following remarks on geology. The rocks of this parish and the adjoining district, I shall de- scribe under the four following heads, viz. I. Granite ; II. Slates or flagstones; III. Sandstone; IV. Trap rocks.* I. Granite. — The district where this rock occurs has been lately ascertained to be much more extensive than it was for- merly thought to be ; foi' I have traced it, in company with the Messrs Anderson of Inverness, from Graemsay to this parish. The town of Stromness occupies the southern end of this tract, which is about one mile broad, and extends from the Island of Graemsay, which is the southern boundary, in a northerly direction, for about six miles, till it passes out at a precipice in this parish, on the west coast, where the Atlantic washes its base, and veils it from the eye of the geologist. The sound which separates • Professor Jameson, in his *« ^Mineralogy of the Scottish IsleSi*' gave the first sketch of the geology of the Orkney Islands. SANDWICK. 47 Graemsay from the mainland, and is less than a mile broad, in- terrupts the examination of this rock ; but there can be no doubt of its being continued under water. In some places, it has no appearance of a slaty structure ; in others, it has so distinctly, though not regularly stratified, and is properly gneiss ; and at one place, discovered by Professor Jameson, it passes into mica slate, containing garnets. Hornblende rock is also found in this tract, but there is no extensive exposure of it. In general, it consists of a grey granite or gneiss, which is traversed by veins of quartz or felspar, but more frequently the latter, and exhibits the usual phenomena of such a district, in the interruption and shifting of the veins. A few years ago, L. 300 were laid out in quarrying some of this gneiss, and cutting it into paving-stones for the Lon- don market, but it did not succeed. In one place, the workmen came [n contact with a rock containing a little galena and pyrites, but, with this trifling exception, it contains no ores nor useful mi- nerals. Between this rock and the schist, there is a belt of con- glomerate, at such places as are exposed, of 50 or 100 yards broad, containing pieces of gneiss, quartz, and felspar, imbedded, from a microscopic size to that of a turnip. This belt contains nothing worth remarking, except small veins of galena at one place, which are of no value. It gradually loses the conglomerated structure ; and the succeeding strata, though they sometimes al- ternate, generally assume more of the character of those that rest on them, till at last they pass into II. Sandstone Flag^ or Secondary Slate or Schist, — This rests upon tlie ^nglomerate, and dips from it wherever I have been able to find it in contact. The best exposures on the west side of the granite are on the north shore of Graemsay, point of Ness, in Stromness, and south-west coast of this parish, where the strata slope west. On the east side of the granite, it is only the strata in immediate contact with it that dip east; for, in the course of 100 yards, they gradually dip more in conformity with the general dip of the coun- try ; but they may bo seen dipping east on the shore of Graemsay, and at the point of Garson, in Stromness ; and again they dip north-east, at the Burn of Cairston, and at the north-east boundary of the granite in this parish. Of this slate, almost all the Orkney Islands are composed, or at least most of the low land and shelving shores, while many of the surrounding hills and precipices are formed of the superimposed sandstone. It forms a great part of Stromness, and almost all Sand- wick and Birsay. It can hardly be described as one rock, as it is 4fl ORKNKY. in fact a succession of argillaceous, siliceous and calcareous slates or schists of different thickness, hardness, colour, and composition ; but the most common, and that which is most esteemed for building, i^ when recently quarried, of a dark blue colour, like a hard slate clay, and breaks at determinate angles, diamond-shaped, thus giv- ing the builders easy work ; and some quarries afford excellent paving stones of four or five feet square, perfectly smooth . ♦ By exposure, however, they acquire a rusty reddish or yellowish colour, from the decomposition of the iron with which most of rhese rocks are impreg- nated. These strata may be found at all inclinations, from hori- xontul to perpendicular, but in general they dip to !he west, at an anirle about 20®. They are generally in thin strata, and in one place are quarried pretty extensively for roofing slate, which is not ffood enough to export. In part of this quarry the slates are beautifully marked by dendritic iron pyrites. The texture is ap- parently homogeneous, but when exposed long to the action of the weather the softer parts are worn away, and the harder portions project much, thus demonstrating its compound nature. This is i)articularly the case along several of the precipices that bound the west coast, where the effect of the weather is increased by the exposed situation, sea-spray, &c. and forms the figured stones which have been considered so curious by many ; and indeed the forms that they assume are sometimes exceedingly fantastic, being in the shape of concentric circles, ovals, squares, or triangles, ac- cording to the original mixture of the stones in the different stra- ta, but most frequently the figures are spread irregularly on the surface like hieroglyphics. In some places they alternate with strata of a hard, dark limestone^ which is nearly the colour of the strata be- tween which it lies, and is burnt for lime, but not extensively, as the distance we have to bring our coals renders it expensive. In other places, the strata have a bituminous appearance on the surface, or little cavities which arc filled up with a soft bitumen or petroleum, occasionally glance coal ? This has excited some hope of dis- covering coal in this county, which would be an incalculable benefit to all the north of Scotland ; but the whole county is so intersected by the sea, and there are such plain and beautiful ex- posures of all the strata along our shores, that it is hardly possi- * The resemblance of these and the Caithness slates to some of the so-called grey- wacke slates of the south of KngUnd was remarked many years ago by Professor Jameson. He was in the practice, in his lectures, of pointing out the close resem- blance or identity of these slates and red sandstones with the slates and sandstones in the Pentland range at Edinburgh, which lie immediately below the coal formation, and which he held to be members of the old red sandstonci— a formation belonging cither to the undermost group of the secondary class or the uppermost of the transi. tion class. SANDWICK. 4 9 ble for coal to be present in any quantity, without its croppings or outgoings being perceived somewhere. Fossil 6sh and vegetables occur in several places, even among the strata within half a-mile of the granite. All the species of these ich* thyolites are far 'from being completely collected and known yet; but it is believed that they prove these strata to be identical with the slates of Caithness, and of the southern shores of the Moray Frith. Flinty slate and chert, passing into lydian stone, abound in these slates. Sandstone, some hundred yards thick, lies in im- mediate contact with the conglomerate on the north end of the primitive district on the west coast of the parish. It has that dia- gonal arrangement of the layers called false stratiBcation. It is much more hard and crystalline than the new red sandstone, of a dark grey or brown colour, and is the only good quarry for mill- stones in this countv. Veins of galena are not uncommon, and one near the manse of Stromness has been worked for about 100 yards, but long since forsaken, as a speculation which would not pay. It is here asso- ciated with common heavy spar, and a mineral is found in small quantity along side of it, composed of carbonate of strontia, and sulphate of barytcs, which has been described by Professor Traill as an entirely new mineral, and named Stromnite, or Barystrontia- nite. The other minerals that this part of the formation contains are of no consequence, viz. quartz or rock crystal in veins, calca- reous spar in veins. Iron and copper pyrites, the former, most commonly in veins or nodules and heavy spar, occur sometimes of considerable tliickness. Ill, Sandstone. — This rock lies upon the slates, and is by most geo- logists considered the old red sandstone. It occurs neither in this pa- rish, Stromness, nor Birsay, to which my observations on the slates refer ; but to understand the position of these rocks, it is necessary to trace them to Hoy, south of Stromness, where this sandstone rests on the slates. There it rises to the height of 1600 feet above the level of the sea, in the Ward Hill. It varies much in colour, but is generally gray, red, or brown ; and is disposed in strata, which are often so soft that it is not much used for building. Government, however, employed it for erecting martello towers, which are fast crumbling away. This sandstone is easily decom- posed by the action of the sea, and forms numerous caves and fan- tastic forms along the precipices where it occurs, of which the in- sulated rock, called the Old Man of Hoy, that is so conspicuous from Caithness, may be given as an instance. This singular rock ORKNEY. i> 60 ORKNEY. is formed of the same strata as the precipice from which it is dis* joined ; and as this is nearly 1000 feet perpendicular, it affords a magnificent exhibition of the strata. The top is red sandstoDCi and the base on which it rests amygdaloid. In this precipice, I found, about twenty years ago, a fine vein of manganese ore, from which beautiful specimens may be procured, and in the other side of the island, that species of iron ore called brown hematite, is found in such quantity, that it was at one time worked. IV. Trap Rocks. — These occur as greenstone, basalt, porphyry, and amygdaloid. All the rocks formerly noticed are frequently inter- sected with whin dikes, from one to ten feet thick, which are some* times shifted and contorted, but generally run directly west by com- pass, (the flag having a seam in that direction), till they disappear under the bed of the ocean. In the space of eight miles along the precipices on the west coast of Stromness and this parish, I have counted eighteen separate dikes of this kind, and, including Birsay, I have no doubt there are more than two dozen. The strata of the slate in contact with these dikes are generally con- torted and pulverized, and easily washed away, leaving narrow inlets or ** geoes." One of these, nine feet thick, cuts through the north-west extremity of the granite, and another bounds on its south-east side a mass of amygdaloid, containing zeolite, calcare- ous spar, green earth, &c. in Walls. The only place where I know of its overflowing the secondary rocks is one which I disco- vered about twelve years ago in the west side of Hoy, where there is a bed of it fully 100 feet thick, and, I believe, several miles in extent, in the middle of the sandstone. Near the same bed, on the sea shore of Rackwick, I also found a fine vein of fibrous gyp- sum, an inch and a-half thick. Porphyry also occurs ; and Dr Hib- bert observed an interesting spot of it near the granite in Cairston. V. Alluvial Rocks. — The alluvial formation of Orkney is not par- ticularly interesting; but we have plentyof clay, in most placesabun- dance of peat, though there is little in Sandwick, and, in many dis- tricts, marL Bog -iron ore is very common on some of our hills ; and along our sandy bays, nature frequently erects a barrier of a sort of indurated sand, apparently formed by the mixture of siliceous parti- cles with fragments of shells, which serve for cement. In our peat- mosses, roots of large trees are often dug up, and they have also been found in Sandwick Bay, where they are generally covered by the ocean. Hazel-nuts, deers' horns, &c. have likewise repeatedly been found imbedded in our peat, — and this makes it probable SANDWICK. 51 that forests have formerly grown in these islands, where there is nothing now that deserves to be called a tree, except in gardens. Soil. — The soil of Sandwick is of very different kinds in different places. Immediately east of the bay, it is nothing but sand, which blows about with the wind. In other places, there is a poor yellow clay, formed by the wasting of the clay flag ; and our best soil is a rich black clayish loam. These are mixed together in infinite proportions ; but there is no depth of mossy soil or gravel. The clays particularly rest on a retentive rocky subsoil, many parts of which would be much improved by draining. Zoology. — The rarer species of animals only being wanted for the Statistical Account, I would not be justified in inserting a complete list, for which I must refer to Anderson's ^^ Guide to the Highlands and Islands," where one will be found, embracing those of Mr Low, Drs Barry, Traill, Neill, and Mr Forbes, to which I have nothing important to add. I may, however, mention, that rabbits are very numerous in the sandy parts of this parish, and hares, which were only introduced into Orkney a few years ago^ are now beginning to show themselves. Thousands of gulls, of different species, with scarfs and other sea birds, as well as com- mon pigeons, build on the shelves of our precipices, and some hun- dreds of the pewit, or black-headed gull, on a little artificial holm in the Loch of Skaill. A few pairs of wild swans remain some months in winter in the Lochs of Stenness and Glumly. Wild geese visit us every spring, and several species of duck are found in all our lochs in considerable numbers. There are no trout or other fish of any importance in our lochs ; but in the Loch of Stenness, trout, flounder^, and various other species are got ; and there is great variety in the Atlantic, on our west shores ; however, it is only when the sea is smooth that boats can get out to fish. Lobsters are caught in the bay for the London market. Botany. — The plants in this parish are not very different from those in the neighbouring ones, except Hoy, where there is a con* siderable number of alpine plants on the Ward Hill. The Scotch primrose (Primula Scoticajy and vernal squill (Scilla vernajj grow abundantly in this, and most parishes of the county, with some more plants that are rather rare in the south of Scotland. But, for a catalogue of these, I must refer the botanist to the works of Drs Barry and Neill, and my own contribution of 83 new species to the Orkney Flora in Anderson's " Guide," which would occupy too much space to republish here, as they contain altogether 545 species. It is, however, in cryptogamous plants that the Flora of Orkney 52 ORKNEY. is particularly rich ; and we have the pleasure of adding several to the Flora of Scotland, besides the Chara aspera, new to that of Britain, Dr Pollexfen has paid particular attention to the sea-weeds ; and the addition which I am now enabled to make to former lists of these, prove his diligence in collecting, and acuteness in dis- criminating, — for though I have also picked up a few of these when accidentally at the sea shore, yet, for the majority of them, I am indebted to him. Without deducting a few that might be subtracted from former lists, but, taking Barry's at 11, Neill'sat 13, and mine at 44, there are still 65 new species to be added to the sea- weeds, making the Orkney algae amount to 133 species, and its flora to 610; and yet much remains to be done, particu- larly in cryptogamous botany. It is deemed proper to publish the complete list of algae, including the old and new, on account of the rarity of some, alterations in nomenclature, &c. I. Alojb Inarticulatjb. Nitopbyllum bonnemaisoni II. Axjom CoKFBiivoiors. Sargassum yulgare W^0mm0^*'mmmm^>m0m0k baccifeniDi Halidrys siliquosa Fucus vcsiculosus »»#*»*.#^ ceranoides scrratus Dodosus canaliculatus wmtmmmmm^^ «l«««WIP«WW>A««»W>^ t ^00mm0i^0mtm^0m0'00>0<^m W'^0*mmmmm0m^mm0m>0 i w »n» »imm0im00 »i»[^»^# «#WW^M^^* Himautbalia lorea Lichina pygmaca Alaria esculcnta Laminaria digiiata bulbosa .w« saccharina phyl litis fascia Dcsmarcstia ligulata Dichloria viridis Sporocbnus pedunculatus Chordaria flagelliformis Chorda filum ,^»,,m,,m,m lomentaria Aspcrococcus fistulosus Punctaria plantaginca III I----I- tunuissima Striaria attcnuata 90i0i0^0m0>0'mmf'^0>^mmm mm0m0if>^^^0^^^ ^* mmm0^im0^f>m0i^^'0vmm mi^mm0mim>.,>.,^....^^ confervoides plicata «l^««M«i#W>*M*i#tM«WtM»tM »*»»*W»»»'#>»K<» ^»1W>I^^^» «WWW>#WKM«i«<^«>M*«IM^M* W«*W*«M#«M«MM^M»#IM«IM» #««^Mr««#WWi#l*WWWWW #<^#«^*<»<»<*s>*»^*w»#»**»#<*^» ^M0W*wt#W w ^ m m<0im^0'm0^^i^0»0m *^^w> »^»w»»^.»>»»>».«»»., membranifblius »»w. ..».».»>. JBrodiaci Fhyllophora rubens Spiisrococcus coronopifoliui Gdidiuni corneum Ptilota pliiniosa Iridaea edulis Dumontia filiformis Catanella opuntia Dictyosiphun fccniculaccus Porpbyra laciniata Dictyota dichotoma Furcellaria fastigiata »>»<»>*W»r»'*»*» * m m^ ^m^*m00>0i0>0*0w<0>0>0^ Polyidcs rotundus Dtilesseria sanguinea ,.^r sinuosa ...»»i«..» bypoglossum ^ ..,»..„..,i ruscifolia Kitophyllutn ocellatura vulgaris linearis Ulva latissima ....«,. lactuca .i*..^ Liiica Knteromorpha intestinalis ^00*0tnm^ » 9 v* *t*» mm 0*^*^ vOlYiprCSSa 9» 9 » v »» w »t»»*w»>«i<»» <»'*i0^0>mm^^m^m^^w>0 ^ >m ^M*IMM^ntfWWWWIMiM«^«WWW«*<^rf^ SANDWICK. 53 Confenra centralis Mesogloia multifida Batrachospermum xnonili- CVothrix coufervicola Gloiosiphonia capillaria forme III. Ai^iB Gloiocladb^. Trichocladia Tcrmicularis Corynephora marina Mesogloia Hudsoni .^^ viri-scens There are no forests in this parish; but some trees have been planted within the last fifteen years, and the kinds that seem to succeed best are, the plane, ash, mountain-ash, elm, and willow. II. — Civil History. The only plans or surveys of this parish of any importance, in ad- dition to those of the county in general, are those of the townships, in which the Crown holds property, made by Messrs Granger and Miller, and lodged in the sheriff-clerk's office. l4aHd'0wner8. — The property is divided into very small portions here, as in the neighbouring parishes. William Graham Watt, Esq. of Breckness, holds about a third, and resides on it, cultivat- ing a considerable part. The Crown holds about a fifth ; and the remainder is held by nearly seventy other proprietors, most of whom cultivate their own little farms. Parochial Registers, — The date of the earliest entries in our pa- rochial register, of birlhs is 22d September 1728, and in that of marriages, 20th April 17*27. They have for some years been kept and preserved with great care ; but they do not appear to have been so formerly. Antiquities. — In the former Statistical Account it is mentioned, that, " on the west coast of the parish of Sandwick, close by the sea shore, is to be seen the ruins of a large building, which yet bears the name of the Castle of Snusgar ;" also that several tumuli had been opened, one by Sir Joseph Banks, containing three stone chests, each enclosing a human skeleton, in different positions, and bruised bones, teeth, hair, beads, &c. ; and others containing smaller stone chests, enclosing urns, in which were found ashes, with fragments of bone, or ashes and fragments of bone without urns. To these antiquities, a residence of six years enables me to add the following. In the township of Yeskenaby, not far from the boat noust^ ♦ are the ruins of a small church, with an enclosure about it like a churchyard ; and in several other places, a kirk green or burying ground. Between the top of Lingafiold and the loch of Clumly, are the stones of Via, which are worthy of the antiquarian's notice, and which are supposed to be a cromlech or heathen altar. In- deed, the figure of that, with the head stone in the hundred and * A place for boats. 54 ORKNEY. fiftieth plate of the Encyclopaedia BritaDnica, published in 1797, might pass for a representation of this monument before the dis- placing of its pillars.* On the hill north of Quoyloo there is a standing stone, and also a curious collection of large and ancient stones, to which the name Haly Kirk is still applied ; and a gentleman residing in that neighbourhood informs me, that he recollects one of these, now prostrate, supported by those that are still perpendicular, thus completing that resemblance to an altar, which its name seems to indicate. Not far from the same spot, about 200 yards north- east of North Dike, and about 500 east of the summit of Ves- trafiold, are the remains of an enclosure, 800 yards in circumfe- rence, and, I believe, of great antiquity, many of the stones be- ing large, and set upon edge, particularly five or six on the north side. About sixty yards nearer the summit, is a quarry, with enor- mous blocks of stone detached, so similar to the standing stones of Stenncss ip size and shape, that I suppose this to be the bed from which they were taken, as I know of no other quarry from which they could be procured, and no other purpose for which people would detach such blocks as these, from 13 to 18 feet long. The nearest circle of the standing stones is about six miles from this spot ; but, though they might be considered geographically in this parish, they are ecclesiastically within the boundaries of Sten- ness. I may, however, mention, that numerous remains of anti- quity, probably connected with them, may be seen at the adjoin- ing boundary of this parish, and more particularly about a mile north of them ; and within the west comer of the dike of Was- bbter is a circle, which seems a miniature of that in Stenness, with- out the stones, surrounded by a ditch about 12 feet broad, and 6 feet deep, 219 yards in circumference outside of the ditclu There are in the parish at least five broughs, which their name and situation prove to have been, of old, places of defence. Two of these are on promontories at the precipice in Yeskenaby, one jutting out in the Loch of Clumly, and two in the Loch of Stenness; each of these, not an island, or surrounded by water, * The slab of Via is I foot thick, 5 feet 10 long, and 4 feet 9 broad. The four piU lars under it are each about 3 feet long; and the head stone 3 feet 9 by 2 feet 9 on the surface, and 1 foot 4 thick. It is placed nearly in the centre of an old circular enclosure, 275 paces in circumference, with a small tumulus on the south side of it« which was lately opened, but nothing found in it except a parcel of large stones. SANDWICK. 55 being separated from the land by a ditcb, which is still distinctly visible. I have observed at several places vitrified cairns, similar to those in Sanday, &c which Dr Hibbert supposes to have been produced by beacon fires. I know not that ours have the same origin ; for since that celebrated antiquarian called my attention to the subject, I have, in several cases, seen similar vitrified matter produced by burning a whole stack of sandy peats in the open air, during a strong breeze, which is sometimes done to obtain the ashes for manure. During last summer, a man, who built a habitation for himself on the common between this and Isbister, in Birsay, found what seems to have been a Pict's house, in a knowe from which he took the stones. It consisted of a chain of four circular cells, connected together by passages too narrow and low ever to have formed an abode for men.* It seems more probable that the rubbish above the cells was the ruins of their residence, and that these were used as cellars or places of security. Barrows or tumuli are particularly numerous in Sandwick. I believe there are more than one hundred, though it would be neither easy nor useful to count them. Eight of these, situated on the common, have been opened during the last year. A mi- nute description of each would be tedious ; but a brief account of the most important, which I opened in company with most of the other ofiice-bearers of the Orkney Natural History Socie« ty, must be interesting to the antiquarian. The first, which was the largest of a numerous cluster between Voy and Lyking, was 50 yards in circumference, and about 1\ feet high. It was formed of a wet adhesive clay. On reaching the centre, we found a large flag which formed the cover; and on raising it up, the grave appeared as free from injury, and the pieces of bone as white and clean, as if formed only the preceding day. At its end, which lay north-east by east, was an urn inverted, shaped like an inverted flower-pot; and at its other end, about a hat-full of bones, unmixed with ashes, which had been burnt and broken small, none being more than two inches long and one broad, covered by a stone of an irregular * This building was unfortunately demolished before I heard of it ; but the fol- lowing dimensions, which I had from recollection, are probably pretty correct Cells, 4 feet in diameter, and 4 feet high ; passages, 2 feet wide, 2 feet long, and 3^ feet high ; walls, 1 foot thick, or more, according to the size of stone, only built smootli inside, covered with large flags, the lowest across the passage, and the highest across the middle of the cell, with one between. 56 ORKNEY. shape, about one foot across. It was sprinkled with a peculiar mossy-looking substance, of a brown colour, and white ashes, which seemed, from the smell when burnt, to be animal matter. The surface of the urn is dark, not unlike burnt cork, and seems to be rude earthen-ware, into the composition of which, bits of stone enter liberally. It contained nothing that we could per- ceive, and soon fell to pieces ; but I put them together with Ro- man cement ; and it is now in the Society's museum, with part of the bones.* The next, in size, of the group of tumuli, was 34 yards in circum- ference, about 6 feet high, and contained six separate graves. The two nearest the centre seemed the principal ones. A large flag rested against the covers of these on the east side, jutting up about a foot above them, f The space under this flag was quite empty. On removing it and the two horizontal covers on which it rested, the two principal graves were exposed to view. The first was formed of a double row of upright flags, on all sides ex- cept the south, next to the second, where there was only a single row, and small pieces substituted at the corners, j the space inside was filled for 9 inches with clay, and the corners of this and the second were also cemented with it. Between the cover and clay flooring, was a vacant space, about a foot deep, into which some fine sand had penetrated or fallen from the cover in wasting, and sprinkled the floor. On removing this, we found a small stone, which covered a cavity in the clay, 1 foot in diameter, and 9 inches deep, containing the bones burnt and broken, as in the first tumu- lus, and some little pieces of charcoal. It is worthy of remark, that in a tumulus lately opened in Circassia, Mr Spencer disco- vered a few fragments of unglazed terra cotta vases, containing charcoal also.§ The second graven was nearly one foot south of the former, and consisted of four flags, set up on a floor of flag, with a heap of • The cover wm 5 feet 7 in length, 8 feet 2 broad, and 34 inches thick. The bot- tom of the grave was on the level of the surface of the earth, and it mcaisured S feet long, 2 feet broad, and 1 foot 10 deep. The part of the urn that bore to be lifled up measured 1 foot in diameter at its mouth, 5 inches inside and outside of bottom, and 9 inches high ; the bottom I inch thick, and the sides barely }. t It measured 5 feet long, 4 feet 2 inches broad, and 3 inches thick. :^ 'ilie first grave was 1 foot 8 inches square inside, the outside Hags were 6 inches higher than the inside ones, and those on the west and east sides very thick. Out- side they were supported by some lumpy stones and the clay. § Spencer*s Travels in Circassia, Vol. iL p. 299, third edition. y This was I foot 10 inches, by I foot 3 inches across the middle, but far from sQiiarCi and 2 feet deep. 3 SANDWICK. 57 bones, similar to those in the first. The third was at the south side, close by the west corner of the second, and was very simple, being merely a cavity in the earth, covered by a stone ou which we were treading, and being so low, without any upright flags about it, it escaped observation till we were about to leave the tu- mulus. It contained pieces of bone of a larger size than the for* mer two, and a few pieces of a vitrified substance, like a parcel of peas, with a vesicular internal structure, and of a whitish appear- ance, as if it were vitrified bone. The other three resembled the more common graves that are generally found in the lesser tumu- li, differing from each other in size and structure, but all more or less filled with ashes, of a reddish colour, apparently of peat, in- terspersed with very small bits of bone.* All of these graves lay with one end north north-east, except the sixth, which was directed north-east. This resemblance be- tween the fourth and first is worthy of notice, — that it also^consist- ed of a double row of flags on all sides except the south, next to the fifth, where it was single. I do not think^that it would be either interesting or useful to describe minutely the graves in all the tumuli that I have ^seen opened during the last year, or heard of being opened previously ; for though they vary a little in size, shape, and direction, there is a strong similarity between them, the largest being '2 feet 9 inches by 2 feet, and the smallest 1 foot 2 inches by 10^ inches ; and the direction of those that I have had an opportunity of observing, varies only two points of the compass from north by east, to north- east by north, and they all contained peat ashes mixed with bits of bone. I leave it to those, more competent to the task, to specu- late on these facts. One thing, however, seems evident, that these tumuli are the burying-places of a people who burned their dead, and it seems probable that the rich were buried in the larger and more costly tumuli, and that .their bodies were burnt in such a way as to prevent their remains from being mingled with peat ashes : and the bits of charcoal found in one of the graves seem to indi- cate that this was used as the fuel, at least on some occasions, * The fourth grave ]ay on the east side of the first, with a space of three feet be- tween ; internally, it was 2 feet 10 inches long, by 2 feet 3 indies broad, the inner row 6 inches below the level of the outer ; 9 inches below that, was a small cover- stone, and at the bottom, 6 inches of peat ashes, with bits of bone. The fifth lay two feet south of the last, and was about 3 feet 5 inches, by 2 feet 3 inches. It was form- ed by a single row of flags without any cover. On the top was 6 inches of clay, and below that, about 9 inches of aslies and bone. The sixth lay three feet from the north* west corner of the first, and was the rudest of all. It measured 2 feel by I CooV.*lvcv hope. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — The church of Walls is a neat and comfort- able building, erected in 1832, and capable of containing upwards of 500 people. The church of Flotta is a much older building, and tolerably comfortable, but too small for the population, containing only about 180. The people of both parishes attend the church well. There is an excellent manse. It is situated in the south of Walls, about a quarter of a mile from the church. The stipend is paid partly in grain, butter, and oil, which is WALLS AND FLOTTA. 77 commuted into money at the fiar prices, and partly in money by the heritors of Walls. Flotta is held cum decimis inclasis. The deficiency is made up by the Exchequer to L.158, 6s. 8d. The glebe consists of 8 acres of arable, besides pasture land, and is furnished with a complete steading for a farm of that size. Education. — There are two parochial schoolmasters, in Walls, who are entitled to the legal salary due to schoolmasters in a pa- rish divided by an arm of the sea. There is also a subscription school, supported by the inhabitants in a district of the parish re- mote from any of the other schools ; but the advantages enjoyed by the people, notwithstanding the number of schools, are limit- ed, owing to the distances at which they are situated, and their being often separated by morasses or water. Notwithstanding these difficulties, there are few to be met with who cannot both read and write. Flotta being more compact is more advantageously situated. The teacher in this parish is supported by the Society for Propa- gating Christian Knowledge. The school fees in both parishes are moderate. Pharay has no school. Parish of Flotta Is bounded on the north and east, by Scalpa Flow ; on the west, by Longhope ; and on the south, by the Pentland Frith. It is similar, in situation and climate, to Walls. The land, however, is much more level. The soil is considered good. It is between two and three miles long, and in some places nearly two broad. The rocks are chiefly composed of sandstone, but are not so precipitous as those in Walls. There is an excellent harbour, called the Panhope, from a salt-pan which was at one time worked at this place. It is said, that there was formerly a long house or church on the island, where the surrounding clergy were wont to assemble. What has been said of Walls, in regard to the variety and plen- tiful supply of fish to be procured at all seasons, and the abun« dance of peat fuel, applies to Flotti. This island is particularly well situated for fishing ; and the inhabitants, who are very enter- prising, have excellent boats, and yield to no seamen in managing them. They are industrious, and when not detained at home by their farming operations, they are engaged in fishing, which is to them a more pleasing and profitable employment. The her- ring-fishery has of late years been vigorously prosecuted by the people of Flotta, as well as the fishing of cod, of which they euro 78 ORKNEY. a considerable quantity. On the success of their fishing, both here and in Walls, the people depend in a great measure for their ability to discharge their engagements for the year. The number of inhabitants by a census in 1838 was 351. In 1841, there were 493 persons ; forming 81 families. The Earl of Zetland is the sole proprietor of this parish. Pharay is an island to the north of Flotta, about two miles long, and nearly one broad ; regarding it there are no peculiarities to be noticed. The population in 1838 was 49. In 1841, there were 55 persons, forming ten families. The island is the property of Robert Heddle, Esq. of Melsetter. These are the inhabited islands^ besides which there are three which belong to the parish, and which are uninhabited, but afford pasture for cattle and sheep ; these are Rysay Little, to. the north of Pharay, and Switha, to the south, and Flotta Calf, to the east of Flotta. The first of these also belongs to Mr Heddle, the other two are the property of the Earl of Zetland. Miscellaneous Observations. There was formerly Divine service in Walls two successive Sab- baths, and in Flotta every third Sabbath. It is almost unnecessary to remark that in a double parish, where there is a distance of nearly five miles between the two churches, and that space inter- sected by rapid tides, and the passage often dangerous, this order of things must be frequently broken in upon ; and no minister but one who has been actually so circumstanced, can imagine the distressing state of affairs caused by this arrangement, by which, of necessity, one church is left vacant every Sabbath ; besides, the minister cannot possibly maintain pastoral superintendence over a people removed at such a distance, and that by water. So con- vinced was the present incumbent of this, that, after his induction four years ago, his first attention was directed to remedy an evil which had been the cause of much demoralization in these parishes. After considerable exertion, he succeeded in obtaining an ordained missionary, under the auspices of the venerable Society for Pro- pagating Christian Knowledge, who, along with the Right Ho- nourable the Earl of Zetland and ourselves, contribute to his sup- port. An invaluable blessing is thus conferred, not only upon the people of Flotta and Pharay, but upon the 1150 inhabitants of Walls, who now enjoy Divine service every Sabbath. All the ordinances of religion are now regularly maintained in Flotta ; and we have SIIAPINSHAY. 79 had much gratification in witnessing the Lord's Supper dispensed on two successive summers in a place where it was never before known to be within the memory of man. Mr Macintosh, who is ordained as the minister, has done much for the religious instruction of the young, and promoting a desire for reading amongst the people. The happy termination of these efforts calls for much gratitude, as the effects are already visible in inducing a much more regular attendance upon ordinances in both the parishes than when Divine service was so much inter- rupted as under the former system. There are five licensed pub- lic-houses in Walls, principally intended for the use of the ship« ping which frequent the Longhope ; but I am happy to say, that the sin of drunkenness, as well as of swearing, is now greatly redu- ced, and we have good reasons for hoping, that there are indica- tions of a very considerable improvement not only in morals, but in religious feeling. July 1841. PARISH OF SHAPINSHAY. PRESBYTERY OF NORTH ISLES, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. THE REV. JOHN BARRY, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Situation^ Extent^ S^c. — To the north of the east part of the mainland, from which it is distant about one mile, this island extends almost in the form of a cross, from Stromberry to Ness, near 7 miles, and from the Gait to the foot of Shapinshay, more than 5. The body of the cross stretches from south-west to north-east, and the arms from south-east to north-west. Al- most around the whole island, the shores are low, pretty level, and, to a considerable distance inland, covered with rich fields of grass and corn. Towards the middle, the land rises considerably higher ; and as the hand of industry has never disturbed its repose since the creation, it exhibits the appearance of a barren waste, fit only for sheep pasture. Harbour. — The harbour of Elswick, the only- one in the island, is as capacious almost as any in this country. There, it is high 80 ORKNEY. water at three-quarters of an hour after nine o'clock, when the moon is new and full. It has from four to six fathom water, over a hot* torn of hard clay covered with sand. On the west side of it, is a fine beach, with abundance of excellent fresh water ; and as it opens to the south-west, it is extremely convenient for ships bound to the southward. In ancient times, it seems to have been called Elidar^ wick ; for we are informed by an Icelandic manuscript, that Haco, King of Norway, 1263, lay with his fleet in a harbour of that name, near Kirkwall, in his way to the Hebrides or west of Scotland. He had planned an expedition against Alexander III., King of Scotland, and after he had lain in this harbour till St Olave's Wake, he sailed south before the Mull of Ronaldsha, with all his navy.* II. — Civil History. Parochial Registersn — These are the following : No. 1 of mar- riages and baptisms; marriages from 13th November 1632, to 21st July 1702; baptisms from 3d November 1632, to 19th No- vember 1669. No. 2, of marriages and baptisms ; marriages from 1st November 1758, to 6th August 1793; baptisms from 1st No- vember 1758, to 12th August 1793. No. 3, of marriages, bap- tisms, and deaths, from 12th September 1793, to the present pe- riod. All regularly kept. Land-owners. — These are, Captain William Balfour of Elwick ; valuation, L. 325, 7s. lOd. ; Samuel Laing, Esq. of Papdale ; va- luation, L. 217, 5s. 9fd. Crown, (part of the Bishoprick of Ork- ney), valuation, L. 1594, 6s. Id. Mansion- Heuses, — Cliffdale, the property of Captain Balfour of Elwick ; How, an old ruinous building, the property of S. Laing, Esq. of Papdale. Antiquities. — In Elhardholm, a place belonging to this parish, there arc the remains of a small chapel, which does not call for any particular notice. On the highest ground, and near the cen- tre of the parish, there is, as in most of the other islands, a wart or ward -hill, which commands an accurate and extensive view, not only of this, but of fifteen surrounding parishes. To me this ap- pears plainly to be artificial, and though one of the largest, it is certainly one of those tumuli which are so frequently to be met with in these islands. To the eastward of this little wart or ward- hillock, about an English mile, is a high stone, called the Standi ing Stone of Shapinshny. Above the level of the ground it is 12 feet high, and perhaps 5 or 6 below it ; its breadth is between * old Statistical Account. SIIAPlNSliAY. 81 4 and 5 feet; its thickness a foot and a half; and from its beings clothed in moss or scurf, it has a very venerable majestic aspect, and seems to have weathered many ages. In form and dimen- sions, it very much resembles stones that are found standing in many of the other islands, particularly, the circle and semicir- cle in the parish of Stenness ; and it has perhaps been erected either as a place of worship, or sacrifice, or to be a monument of some signal battle or victory, or to preserve the memory of some celebrated hero who had fallen in the field of battle. Towards the north side of the island, and by the sea side, is another large stone, called the Black Stone of Odin, Instead of standing erect, like the one above mentioned, it rests its huge side on the sand, and raises its back high above the surrounding stones, from which it seems to be altogether different in quality. How it has come thither, for what purpose, and what relation it has borne to the Scandinavian god with whose name it has been honoured, not only history, but tradition is silent. On the west shore, oppo- site nearly to the rock or skerry of Vasa, where the tides are rapid and the sea is shallow, we meet with a place known by the name of Grucula or Agricola, Thither, tradition reports, one of Agricola's ships, in his celebrated voyage round the is- land of Britain, was driven by violence of weather, and strand- ed. But the most remarkable pieces of antiquity in this, and in- deed in the other islands, are those large ruins denominated Pict$ houses. Here, they are frequently met with along the sea-shore, two or three of them at no great distance from, and in general raising their conical heads in view of, each other. They are situ- ated for the most part, on the most pleasant spots ; cohered with green, and ornamented with flowers and herbs of various sorts ; and such of them as have been examined by the eye of curiosity, have discovered considerable variety in both their form and dimensions.* III. — Population. Amount of population in 1801, • 744 181 r. • 726 1821, • 779 1831, • 809 * Near CUifdale, it is noticed in the Old Account, a subterraneous building was discovered, of a singular nature. It had been formed by digging the earth about three feet deep, and erecting pillars of stones built one upon another to the height of four feet, to support a flat roof of broad stones or flags that covered the whole build- ing, which was composed of two hexagons contiguous to one another, and their dia- meter about eight feet, and of a rectangle as large as both. There was found in it a gold ring of uncommon construction. The outside was broad and large, composed as it were of three cords twisted or plaited together ; the inside was much narrower, and pretty well fitted for the use of the finger. ORKNEY. F 82 ORKNEY. The amount at the present time is supposed to be 830. During the last three years, there has been one illegitimate birth. IV. — Industry. Number of acres, Rtandard imperial measure, in the parish, which are either cultivat- ed or occasionally in tillage, .... 748 Number of acres which never have been cultivated, and which remain con- stantly in waste, or pasture, ' . • . 2886 Number of acres in a state of undivided common, . . 3134 There is no wood, either natural or planted. The average rent of land per acre, is lOs. Real rental of the parish, about L. 611. Manufactures. — Plaiting of straw for bonnets is universally prac- tised by females; and about 100 herring-nets are made yearly at 16s. each. Fishings.'^Yiemvig fishing is oarried on with 50 boats; II of which are employed in the cod-fishery during the season. The average quantity of herring caught yearly by each boat, is 60 cranes, sold at 10s. per crane. The quantity of cod caught yearly, at an average, is 2^ tons per boat; sold at an average of L.IO per ton. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — The number of families belonging to the Established Church is 100; of Dissenting or Seceding femilies, supposed to be between 60 and 70. Stipend, L.150. The value of the glebe is about L.27. The manse was built in the year 1831 ; and is at present in good condition. Education. — Besides the parochial school, there is one under the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge ; and no other schools are required. The salary of the parochial teacher is L.25, Ids. 3d. : his fees may amount to L.10, and he has no other emo- luments. Poor. — Average number of persons receiving aid, 20 : the ave- rage sum allotted to each per annum is 5s. The church collec- tions amount to L.7 or L.8 per annum, — and these are the only source of contribution for the poor. July 1841. PARISH OF ROUS AY AND EAGLESHAY. PRESBYTERY OF NORTH ISLES, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. THE REV. GEORGE RITCHIE, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. This parish consists of the four islands, Rousay, Eagleshay^ Weir, and Enhallow, besides two small holms or uninhabited islands. These islands are situate about nine miles north-west of Kirkwall. Rousat/f the largest, is one of a range of hills. It abounds with game, and contains many springs of excellent water. The soil is good. There are the remains of a small church about five miles from the manse. Eagleshay. — This is a pleasant, low-lying island, with a small Gothic church in the west part of it, which was dedicated to St Magnus, the tutelar saint of Orkney. It has a pyramidical steeple at the west end, and a vaulted choir at the east end, which joins to the body of the church. In Eagleshay, there is a small lake of fresh water; and the soil is very good, and fit for culture; but it is poorly cultivated. There is a small bay of shell sand, of the best kind, on the west side of this island, and a large track of sand on the north side, with much bent, and many rabbits. Weir, — Weir Island is a small low-lying island, not so large as Eagleshay. ' The soil is the same, and the culture very poor. There are the ruins of a church here, and a choir, but no steeple ; and the vestiges of a fortification on a rising ground, a little from the place where the church stands. Enhallow. — Enhallow Island is very small, but very pleasantly situated, being overlooked by the hills and headlands of mainland on the south, and of Rousay on the north. The soil is good, but not skilfully managed. II. — Civil History. LamUownera. — These are 13 in number, — and the chief of * Drawn up by Mr WtlUam Smcaton, Session • Clerk. 84 ORKNEY. them are, Lord Dundas ; William Traill, Esq. of Woodwick ; James Baikie, Esq. of Tankerness ; Robert Heddle, Esq. of Mel- setter ; Robert Patten, Esq. of Saviskael. Parochial Registers, — The earliest register commences 16th September 1733, and ends llth January 1747. The next com- mences 13th May 1758, and is continued to this date. Both have been tolerably well kept. III. — Population. Amount of the population in 1821, 1 151 1831, 1253 at present, 1262 Illegitimate births in the parish in the course of the last three years, 1. IV. — Industry. AgricvLUure.--^ Number of acres,' standard imperial measure, in the parish, which are either cuUiYated or occasionally in tillage, . . 2200 which never have been cultivated, and which remain con- stantly waste or in pasture, . 10440 in a state of undivided common, . . 7500 There is no wood, either natural or planted, in the parish. Produce. — Produce of grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man or the doroestie animals, .... L 3550 potatoes, turnips, cabbages, beet, and other plants, culti- vated in the fields for food, . . . 665 of hay, whether meadow or cultivated, • . 80 of fisheries, whether sea, river, or lake, . . 750 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, . L.5045 It may be added, that there are belonging to the parish, 18 herring boats, carrying 90 tons. Real rent of the parish, L.1530. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State, — Number of families belonging to the Es- tablished Church, 183; of families. Dissenting or Seceding, 87. Amount of stipend, L.150. Education, — There are four schools in the parish, and one more is required, as it is calculated there are 41 persons in the parish betwixt six and fifteen years of age unable to read, and about 21 above fifteen years of age in the same situation. The parochial teacher's salary amounts to L.26, and his fees to L.6. Poor. — The number of persons receiving parochial aid is 28. The only fund for their relief is from church collections, which amount, on an average, to L.4, 15s. per annum. July 1841. UNITED PARISHES OF CROSS AND BURNESS. PRESBYTERY OF NORTH ISLES, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. THE REV. WILLIAM GRANT, MINISTER.* L—» Topography and Natural History. Situation and Extent. — The uDited parishes of Cross and Bur- uess include about one-half of the extent of the Island of Sandayl — forming the one the south-west and the other the north west limbs of that island, which is very much cut up by indentations of the sea. The extreme length of the two parishes from Spurness, in Cross, to Whitemill Point, in Burness, is 9^ statute miles ; but the breadth varies from half a mile to three miles. Cross parish is consi- derably diversified by rising ground ; but Burness, like Lady par rish, composing the rest of the island, is almost a dead flat, very little raised above the level of the sea« Burness, anciently called St Colm's, extends to about 2500 imperial acres, and, being al- most surrounded by the sea, it has, on all its shores, a most plen- tiful supply of sea-weed, both for manure and for the manufacture of kelp. It is bounded on its west and north sides by the Atlantic Ocean and the dangerous frith, here about seven miles wide, which divides it from the Island of North Ronaldshay ; but it is sheltered from the full force of the Atlantic surge by the holms of Ire and the half-tide rocks or skerries of Rive ; east and south, it stretches along, and forms one side of, the Bay of Otterswick, anciently called Odinswick, in which is safe anchorage for vessels of any size, while, at the top of this bay on the Burness side, a sort of inner harbour is formed by the point of Lambiness, on the soft sand of which small vessels may be beached at any time with per- fect safety. The shores of Burness are generally flat, and the appearance of the parish is green, fertile, and lively, excepting near its junction with Cross parish, where there is a moor of about 200 acres of a most barren and forbidding appearance. There * Drawn up by Robert Scartb, Esq. Scar House, Sanday. 86 OUKNET. are several ponds, and one fresh- water loch of considerable extent and depth, — a favourite resort of ducks and other aquatic fowl during the winter and spring; and both this loch and the more extensive one of Bea, in Cross parish, are occasionally visited by flocks of wild swans, as they pass north or south in their vernal and autumnal migrations. The mansion-houses of Scar and Saville are situated about a mile apart, — the former on the west and the latter on the east shores of the parish, surrounded by rich com fields and pleasant grassy links; and, in the garden at Saville, apples and small fruit are produced. The parish of Cross extends to about 4600 acres, of which fully a fourth part is moorland, and another fourth part sandy downs and links. The general appearance of this parish (with all defe< fence to the recorded opinion of a fair traveller who lately, from a midnight view on the deck of a steamer, at the distance of sixteen or eighteen miles, condemned the whole island to hopeless ugli- ness), we must be allowed to say is very beautiful. It is well shel- tered from the west and north by the Island of Eday, separated from it by a narrow sound varying from 1^ to 3 miles wide, through which the tides are constantly pouring with a velocity of not less than eight miles an hour. This sound has much the appearance of a noble river, and the resemblance is increased during the ebb- tide by the foaming rapids, as they may be called, of Lashy- Roost running nearly across the channel from side to side ; and it is cu- rious to observe with what dexterity the islanders guide their hand- some-looking and neatly-rigged yawls through the breakers of the Roost On the east of Cross parish, Sanday Sound, dividing Sanday from Stronsay and the adjacent holms, runs along, until it leads into the Bay of Kettletoft, at the head of which Cross and Lady parishes march. . The land in Cross rises at two points to more than 300 feet above the sea, and the surrounding islands, sounds, friths, and bays, with the green and generally fertile plains of Sanday itself, present, from these points, one of the most delightful views the eye can rest upon. One of these heights, called the Brae of Fea, falls only a very little distance towards the west, when it terminates in a precipice washed at bottom by the sea, and perforated by cu- rious caverns ; while on the east side the slope is gentle, and co- vered with rich pasture grass, enamelled with the field-gentian, the bird's-eye primrose, the squill, and other flowers, until it reaches the reedy edge of Bea Loch on the property of How. CROSS AND BUUNESS. 8t Geology. — The whole island of Sanday is composed of secon- dary rocks, sandstone, sandstone flag, and a little limestone. Near the house of Saville, in Burness, there is an isolated mass of pri- mary rock, supposed gneiss, about fourteen tons weight, resting on the surface of the ground, and considered by Dr Neill to be *^ one of the most uncommon niineralogical appearances in Orkney, the nearest primary rocks being at Stromness, which is above thirty miles distant, and several rapid friths intervening." Opposite to Eday, on the west shore of the farm of Stove, in Cross parish, there is a curious rock called Heclabir, which Dr Neill says is a breccia, ^^ most of the component parts of which are rounded and water-worn nodules of sandstone. The pieces are of diffe- rent sizes, from balls of three, five, and ten pounds weight, to such as are of the size of sparrow eggs. A few quartz and calcareous nodules are interspersed." The bays of Stove, Backaskail, and Otterswick produce enor- mous quantities of shell-fish, principally cockles and the spout or razor fish. The accumulated shells of these fish ground to pow- der, and heaped up upon the beaches by the action of the sea, and blown inland by the wind, seem to form a very considerable portion of the soil in Cross and Burness ; and in some districts it is evident that the dry sandy downs, now inhabited by numerous colonies of Vabbits, have at one time been fresh water lochs, or lagoons communicating with the sea. The writer of this article, in draining lands of the description referred to, has found, at a depth in some places of six or seven feet, but always on reaching a certain level, a bottom of mud and gravel containing many rem- nants of reeds and other aquatic plants ; and throughout the depth of the ditch, it was easy to mark the different layers of sand which had been blown over the ground at different periods, by the black line of mossy earth or decayed vegetable matter running along, where each successive surface had been. In immediate connec- tion, however, with such sandy downs throughout both parishes, there are large tracks of strong clay, of gravelly, or of deep loamy land, admirably fitted for raising the ordinary green and grain crops. The natural pastures of Sanday, where they are protect- ed from those most destructive vermin, the rabbits, are exceeding- ly rich and feeding. They are composed of a variety of grasses^ among which cocksfoot, the different fescues, plantains, and the red and white clovers, known here by the names of red and white curl-doddies, are the most conspicuous. Sea-rockets, bent-grasS| 88 ORRNBV. and the sea- reed are plentiful near the sandy beaches; and the sea banks themselves are often ornamented by the cowslip, thrift, and sea-pink, epilobium and cranesbill. Zoology. — Few places present more encouragement to the sports* man than the parishes of Cross and Burness, for though there are 00 grouse or hares, as on Eday or on the mainland of Orkney, there are great numbers of lapwing, snipe, and landrail ; while rabbits are not counted by hundreds, but by thousands. On more than one farm f3000 rabbits are taken yearly ! The rocks are te- nanted by large flocks of the wild pigeon ; and the lakes, sounds, and bays are filled with almost every variety of water-fowl. About the 20th of June, or later, as the season has been favourable or otherwise, literally clouds of the golden plover arrive from the north ; and with viist numbers of the sandpiper tribe, of the cur- lews, herons, and whimbrels, they are to be found on the moors and flat shores of the island, until early spring calls them ofi" to their breeding places in less populous regions. Very many varie- ties both of water and land birds remain on the island, all the sea- son, and breed there. Of these the oyster 'catcher, the redshank, the dunlin, the dotterel, the turnstone, the tern, and several va- rieties of the gull tribe, — the eider-duck, the common wild duck, the teal, the shield drake, and others of the duck tribe, with larks, buntings, and starlings, are the most numerous. Of the last nam- ed birds, the starlings, the writer took from his dovecot in one morning no less than twenty-two dozen. The fish caught round the island are, cod, ling, skate, holibut, flounder, and the young of the coal-fish, here called sillocks and cuiths. These last are caught on the fly, either from the rocks, or from the stern of a small boat ; and in addition to the supply of food which they form at all seasons of the year, and the quantity of oil for household use produced from their livers, the catching of them is no despicable sport, and would be preferred to the fin- est river fishing by those who would rather fill their basket in one hour, than exercise their patience by waiting all day for even " a glorious nibble." Lobsters are caught in great numbers by boats from the shore, and bought up and conveyed to the London market, direct from Sanday, by smacks. Seals are pretty nu- merous; but, as there are no resident sportsmen, they are not often shot. The otter frequents the rocks and caverns on the west side, and is occasionally seen stealing his way to Bea Loch. But the most exciting of all fishings, if fishing it can CROSS AND BURNKSS. 89 be called, is that of the bottle-nosed or ca'-ing whales, the Del* phinus deductor of zoologists* Large shoals of these auiinals, varying from 50 to 500 in number, and from 5 to 25 feet each in length, get occasionally embayed ; and upon this happening, all boats are launched, all hands active, every tool which axn be con- Terted into a weapon of offence to the strangers, from the roasting spit of the principal tenant, to the ware-fork of the cottar, is put into requisition. The shoal is surrounded, driven like a flock of timid sheep to shallow water ou a sandy shore, and then the at- tack is made in earnest. The boats push in, stabbing and wound- ing in all directions. The tails of the wounded fish lash the sea, which is dyed red with their blood, sometimes dashing a boat to pieces. The whales in dying emit shrill and plaintive cries, ac^ companied with loud snorting, and a humming noise easily mis- taken at a distance for fifes and drums; so that the whole scene has been not inaptly compared to a battle-field. II. — Civil Historv. Parochial Registers. — There are or rather were two parochial registers, — a register of births and baptisms, and a register of mar- riages commencing in 1711, and kept, apparently with great regu- larity, until 1793, since which time a great majority of the births have not been registered, and no register of marriages has been kept. There have been no illegitimate births in either of the pa- rishes, during the last three years. Rents of Land and Proprietors, — It may be curious to observe the difference in the yearly value of the lands in Orkney, since the va- luation made for assessing the land tax in 1653. The names of the then proprietors of Cross and Burnesswere, Magnus Fea of Grin- dilla ; James Fea of Stove ; John ScoUay of Leta ; John Smith of Seater; John Elphinstonte ; John Miller of Skelbuster; John Irvine of Isgairth ; John Henryson ; James Traill of Houbister ; John Groat of Elsness; Malcolm Sinclair of Papness; James Cock of Westove ; Thomas Abercrombie ; Richard Fothering- hame ; Brandy Thurland ; Walter Thomson ; John Above-the- Riggs ; John Scott of Langskeal ; Edward Cock ; Robert Stew- art of Brough and the Earl of Morton ; and the whole lands are rated in the same valuation at L. 1090, Os. 5d. Scots, or L. 140, 16s. 8d. Sterling ; to which add feu and scat and teind-duties pay- able to the Earl of Morton as Donatory of the Crown, viz. 1 bar- rel butter at L. 20 ; 76 lispunds butter at L. 2 ; 650 meils, 1 set- ting, and 6 marks of bear at L. 1, 13s. 4d. ; 13 meils, 5 settings, 20f marks of meal at L. 4; and L. 127, 10s. 6d. Scots money, gives 90 ORKNEY. L.144I, Is. lid. Scots, or L.120, Is. 9d. Sterling, — ^making tbe gross land-rent of both parishes, at that remote period, L. 260, 18s. 5d. Sterling. In (he last Statistical Account of Sanday and North Ronald- shay, ) 793, prepared with great intelligence, care, and accuracy, by the late Rev. William Clouston, then minister of Cross and Bur- ness, the gross rent of the two islands is stated at L.1064, Ss. 0^ Sterling, and calculating at his conversion of rents in kind, which would now be just about half-price, the then gross land rent of the parishes of Cross and Burness alone amounted to only L. 419^ lis. )d. Sterling. Cross parish now belongs in property to 1. Samuel l^ing of Papdale, whose laotls of Stove* GrindilU aiid Whippa Land^ foim the south promoi.tory, and a:e let in one large and five small farms, in- cludhig the grazings of the Spurness hulins for a died rent, wholly csclusiTe of kelp, of . . L.^4 9 Public burdens, — the superior duties and land tax be- ing redeemed, arc . . 21 16 Net, L.222 13 2. John Balfour of Trenahy, whose lands of Warsetter and Westbrough, with several small farms, two wind- mills, and two water-mills, are let for a land rent, ex- clusive of kelp, of . . L.d30 5 Public burdens, — including superior duties payable to the Earl of Zetland, are . 94 14 3 3. The Earl of Zetland, whose lands of Backask ail. Lev- land, and part of Nibister, are let for . ' L. 63 14 Public burdens are, . . 12 B 5 Net, 245 10 9 L.51 5 7 To which add, average value ofsuperior duties drawn by him out of the parish, and for which he pays no pro- portion of public burdens, * . 64 1 7| 4. Thomas Traill of Westove, whose lands of How, Howsgarth, and Beancss, with 14 cotts, are lot to one tenant for a land rent, exclusive of kelp, of . L. 134 Also some inclosures connected with the principal inn of the island, let together on an improving lease, for a nominal rent of . . 2 6 Net, 115 7 2t L. 134 2 6 Public burdens,— -the superior duties being redeemed, are 22 15 If 5. The representatives of the late J. T. Urquhart of . P^lsncss, for the water-mill of Bea, and pendicles of Ugarth and liettal, a land rent of . I^. 47 Public buidens, land-tax, and superior duties being re- deemed, . 118 Net. Ill 7 4^ Net, 45 11 4 Carry forward, L.740 9 8 CROSS AND BURNESS. 91 Drought over, L,740 9 8 6. Tliree small farms in the occupation of the proprie« tors, viz. Fea of Bollaquoy and iieater, Mr Dennison of Myres, and Sclater of Skelbuster, in all'nrorth of land rent, about . . L. 40 Public burdens of the three, including superior duties, payable to the Earl of Zetland, . 9 15 7 Net, dO 4 5 Net land rent of Cross parish in 1840, L.770 14 1 Burness parish, with the exception of three acres iu Hettal, and 18 acres, the minister's glebe lands, is the property of Thomas Traill of Westove, and is, including wind-mill and water-mill, occupied by sixty tenants, paying rents varying from L. 4 to L. 40 each, making a land-rent, exclusive of kelp, of . L.510 19 10 The mansion house of Scar, with a farm of near 80 acres, is occupied by the factor, and the other man. sion-house of Saville, with lands around, is occupied by the Rev. Walter Traill of Westove, together worth about . . laO L.640 19 10 The superior duties having been purchased from the Earl of Zetland, the present public burdens of stipend, school salary^ &c. amount to • . G9 19 7 Net land rent of Burness in 1840, . L. 571 3 The gross rents stated above being L. 1564, lis. 11|d. Ster* ling, (after making allowance for lands farmed by proprietors themselves, which it is probable Mr Clouston did not include in his rental, as also for the difference in the relative value of money and farm produce, the rents being then mostly paid in kind,) it will be seen that the gross rents of these two parishes have been more than doubled since 1793; and this, notwithstanding that not only kelp but rabbit skins, upon which he counts for part of the farmer's profit, have become unsaleable. But the most casual ob- server will see at a glance, that, from whatever cause the value of grain and cattle now yearly exported, is proportionally increased. When the manufacture of kelp was a source of profit to the proprietors, and when almost everything else was neglected in order to increase its quantity, the produce of the manufacture from Cross and Burness was as follows : Mr Laing from Stove and the Spurness holms, . • 47 tons. Mr Balfour, . . .175 Note The tenants of Westbrough and Warsetter yet pay a considerable rent for the kelp of their properties ; but this kelp rent has been deducted before stating the land rent as above. The Earl of Zetland, . . 10 Note llie same remark applies as to Westbrough and Warsetter. — — Carry over, 2?J2 92 OUKNEY. Brought over, 2S2 tons. Thomas Traill, — In Cross, . . 18 In Burness, . 220 238 Bollaguoy and Skelbuster, with the minister *s glebe in Cross, made about • 10 Toul, 480 tons. Say 480 tons of marketable kelp, which, from its very superior quality, always met with a ready sale at Dumbarton and Newcas- tle, and so lately as the years 1825-26, and 27, (it having been much higher priced previous to that time,) left a clear average re- turn to the proprietor of L.9 per ton, making L.4d20. This source of revenue is now almost wholly cut off. The use of kelp in the manufacture of glass has been superseded by Spanish barilla, brought in at a low duty, and still more, it is said, by new chemical discoveries in the art of glass making. The only de- mand now for kelp comes from chemical works on the Frith of Forth, and Lord Normanby's alum works near Whitby ; but the prices offered are such as will do little more than cover the ex- pense of manufacture and the freight. It may be easily supposed thai the abstraction of so large an amount of revenue from the proprietors of these parishes, in com- mon with the other proprietors of Orkney, must have been severe* ly felt, not only by themselves, but also by the farmers, peasantry, and trades-people dependent upon them ; and this the more, that formerly in Orkney every consideration was sacrificed to kelp. Agri- culture was much neglected, and even the fisheries, for which the county is so well adapted, were unattended to. So long ago as 1804 Dr Patrick Neill of Edinburgh warned the proprietors, of what has actually happened, in these words : '^ Should a cheap process for extracting the soda from sea water happen to be discovered, or should the market for kelp on any other account unexpectedly fail, the landholders of Orkney will find, when too late, the great im- prudence of thus neglecting the cultivation and improvement of their lands."* The consequence has been, that several extensive properties have been forced into the market, and partly from an absurd notion that the failure in the manufacture of kelp would have the effect of lowering the land rents, and making their reco- very uncertain, — partly from the want of tenants of sufficient skill and capital to take the manor farms, and follow out the very ex- tensive and, in many cases, highly judicious improvements which had been begun by the proprietors; but, above all, from the entire * Tour through Orkney and Shetland, by Patrick Neill. Edinburgh, 1806. CHOSS AND DUHNESS. 93 and inexcusable ignorance of south country capitalists, as to every- thing connected with this remote but highly interesting and valu- able county, no sales could be effected, and these properties have been left not in the best possible situation for the comfort of the people, nor for their own improvement, viz. under trust for the payment of creditors. With every disadvantage, however, the peasantry of the country have done wonders for themselves. Most fortunately, before the entire fall of kelp, Mr Laing of Pap- dale and others, had, by liberal enc^uragenjent and large advan- ces, induced their small tenants and cottars to fit out boats, nets, and lines, and to attempt the prosecuting of the herring and cod fisheries. Taking warning from the bad effects of compulsory labour on the kelp manufacture, these gentlemen did not enthral their tenants, by any interference with the produce of their fisheries, but left them at liberty to dispose of their fish to the highest bidder, and to lay out their gains as they thmight fit. The inhabitants of the parishes of Cross and Burness, as, indeed, of the whole Island of Sanday, were rather behind their neighbours in starting to this new scene of industry ; but they can now boast of many crews of excellent fishermen and of well-rigged and powerful boats, to whose numbers every year is adding ; while the rising spirit of independ* ence, which successful exertion and unfettered industry is sure to produce in any people, leads them yearly to pay more and more at- tention to improving the management of their small iarms, of their stock of cattle and horses, and to raising the scale of their per- sonal comforts in clothing and lodging ; so that, considering the enormous quantity of land in those parishes, lying comparatively waste and unproductive, the proprietors, with a little well-timed direction and encouragement, may not only secure their present land rents, but look forward to making up, from the same source, great part, if not all, of their heavy loss by kelp. III. — Population. By the census taken in 1831, there were in Cross parish 91 inhabited houses, 82 &• milics said to be employed in agriculture, 16 in trade, and of other fiimilies, Si- total 101 families. Males, ...... ... 250 Females, ......... 291 Total, . "541 There were in Burness parish 76 inhabited houses, 69 families employed in agriculture, 11 in trade, and 1 other family — total 81 families. Males, . . • . • - 203 Females, ...... 237 Total, 440 Total population in both parishes in 1831, . 961 94 ORKNEY. Tlie total i>opu1atian of Cross parisli is now .... 560 The population of Buriicss parish is .... 492 Total of botli parishes now . 992 The number of children below 15 years of age in both parishes is 190. The cottar system, which formerly prevailed universally, and still does prevail to a small extent, is perhaps the most degrading to the labouring class, the most discouraging to industry and exer- tion, and consequently the most injurious to morals, which can be conceived. A youngster, when he has hardly attained to man- hood, and before he can have saved as much as will purchase a bed and blankets, makes an improvident marriage, and only then thinks of looking for a hut to shelter him and his fast*increasing family. Having got the hut and a small piece of land, he has to go in debt for the purchase of a wretched cow and a still more wretched pony, and, paying his rent in small but never-ending and ill-defined personal services, or, as it is expressively called in the country language, ^^ on-ca-work," he becomes the slave of the principal tenant, who is so blind to his own interests, as to prefer the slovenly half-executed work of this hopeless, ill- fed, and inert being to the willing and active services of a well-paid and well-fed farm-servant The tenants of Sanday are, in general, very kind to their cottars, and seldom a day passes without their having to grant some little entreated favour or other, which the circumstan-* ces of the cottar makes necessary for his support; but they do not seem to calculate the value in money of the property thus given away. Often, in the course of the year, it will amount to as much as the wages of a good ploughman ; but then, being an uncertain bounty, and, moreover, the product of beggary, it does the receiver little good beyond the immediate relief to his family, and destroys in him all habits of self-dependence and of foresight. The tenants complain that, from the inducement held out to young men by the fisheries, it is nearly impossible to get farm-ser- vants. While the tenant was paid a high price for the manufac- ture of kelp, he kept his farm-servants all the year round, employ- ing them profitably during the summer season in the kelp ; but, not having yet gone into the system of raising extensive green crops, he does not conceive that he needs servants durincf the four months betwixt plough-casting and harvest ; consequently, he pays off his servants at the former period, and they are thus forced to become fishermen. He cannot, therefore, expect that they will return to him exactly at the time which suits his convenience, nor that a man, who may be making L.1 a- week, with the chance sometimes S CROSS AND BURNESS. 95 of as much in a day and night, will leave this exciting employment for farm work at as much per month. The remedy of all this is evident. Let the cottar's house and land be rented in money^ which rent let him make out in any line his genius may lead him to. If the tenant requires his services, he ought to be hired by the day or hour at fair money wages, and if he requires any farm produce he ought to pay for it in cash. In regard to farm-servants, the tenant would find his interest in employing only those who have nothing to do with boating or fishing, — managing his farm so as to give them work all the year round, and paying them such wages as shall give him a right to insist for close, constant, and active service. The most approved make of carts, ploughs, rollers, and other farming implements are in general use ; and some of the plough- men would obtain prizes at a competition even in the south country. The society of Sanday is equal to that of any of the islands, and the clergy and principal farmers are exceedingly hospitable and obliging to each other, as well as to strangers. There are few or no games, or public amusements of any kind.* The common people used to be fond of dancing and foot-ball playing, but of late years, it is to be regretted, that, while there is less hilarity and social enjoyment among the young, there is more of quiet tippling in the public-house. Relaxation and amusement are necessary ; and when the innocent recreations of music and dancing are dis- couraged, there is a risk that something worse may be had re- course to. The language spoken, as through all the islands, is English. Among the peasantry a good many words are peculiar to the north isles, and some of them are evidently of Scandinavian origin. A few are given in alphabetical order. Anything like a complete list would encroach too much on our space.* • /l6i«,(v.)to thrash halfa sheaf for giving horses — Abir, (n.) a sheaf so thrashed. —-<4rcwiy, (adj.) diminutive. Bal, (v.) to throw at — Been-hook, (n.) part of the rent paid by a cottar for his ]and is work all harvest ; but besides his own labour, he must bring out his wife three days, for which she receives nothing but her food. All the women on a farm are called out at the same time ; tliey work together, and are called been hooks, and the days on which they work been -book days — Buil, (n.) one of the divi- sions or suills of a stable— i9M%, (n.) a feast— fi«*«/, (n.) a small box—BuUic, or BuUo^ (n.) a piece of flannel or home-made cloth, worn by women over the head and shoulders — Bramnto, (n.) a mefis of oatmeal and water — Bret, (v.) to strut — Brodend, (adj.) habituated to^Burtiin, (n.) meal made of corn parched in a pot or "hellio.'' Cnie,{i\.) a small inclosure for raising cabbage plants — Cumtna/^ ("•) « ""a" rising ground— CV/^* ("0 * Ijo^lo^ plnce-^Cheaing meat, (n.) It was formerly 96 ORKNKV. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Stran«rcrs still find much to conderan in the nagcment of the land in these parishes; but to those who recollect what it was forty years ago, a very great iinprovemeot, indeed, ii perceptible ; and now that the slavery of the kelp manufacture has been removed, and the free and unfettered energies of the farmen begin to be applied to their proper business, it may be hoped that twenty years hence, they will in this respect stand exposed to less objection on the part of their more fortunate southern neighs hours. Great part of the lands have been placed in a state of sereralty, and the marches betwixt different farms, as well as betwixt estates ascertained ; and, in many cases, good division-fences erected. The purchase or redemption by some of the proprietors, of the the custom that the women who liad attended an accouchement brought ■ pretent of meat next day to the lady in the straw ; — it generally consisted of a stoup fall of «« Rggalourie,*' and a *< cubbie** of bannocks, and wai convi7cd by stealth into the bed of the invalid — Cafzce, (n.) a large straw basket— Cnbhir, (n.) a small caisie. Dair. (v.) to make an impression — DeilOt (n.) a small patch of cultivated gromid .^Donialus, (adj.) impotent — DoHng, (part.) confusion, noisc^-'Dovend , (*$.) bo- numbed. Eri-oy, a great grandson — E»k, (v ) to rain a little — Ere, (n.) a small qiwntitj -m^Eggaiourie^ (n.) a dish of eggs and milk boiled together. Fatifu, (adj-) affectionate — Fole^ ("•) > small bannock — Foiidal, (adj.) procraati- nating — Forsal^ (v.) to harness — Frootery (n.) superstitious ol)servance9 — FHfkim, (adj.) melting — Fur-icanit (n.) oT the four horses formerly used abreast in the old Orkney plough, (he first or right hand one was called the fur horse, the second the fur.scam, the third the volar-sc^m, and the fourth the outend horse. Goc or Gio, (n.) a cave or creek into which the sea flows — Gryar-carl, (n.) a au- pemntural Iwing like the kelpie — Gftr^ (n) an intermission of rain — Gfofffo, (n.) a mixture of burstin and milk — Grummal^ crumbs, fragments— Gm/, Sir, by the way of address— ^wii////, (adj.) good, agreeable. Ilarakitn (n.) heartburn — Ileltio^ (n.) a stone with a rim of clay about it, used in parching corn for burstin. /////, (n.) anger — ///i/w, (adj.) angry. Ket^ (adj.) dwarfisli — Klfipie, (n.) a blow. LubbOf (n.) n meal measure, very neatly made of bent. Main, patience — Maisk^ Imshful — Mutlio a bundle of gleanings. Nou9t^ a duck for a boat — Noutttcr^ a landing place. OtWct a sewer — Orafuy glutton, greedy. Prrrie^ little — Pooti/^ a small cod — Pouttcd, bewitched, infatuated. Qtiojf, a small enclosure. Rrtvlvy^ ugly — Rcnzle^ to writhe with pain — Ruist, Rug, or Mur, synonymes fur small rain — Ruggir^ an old cod'^Rugftu, rude. Scatfu, inclined to steal— ^cranr/, a morsel — Scr\me^ to see an object dimly— .tVXrlo^ A drying-house — Smooin, sly — Snuain, a sea-weed — Suck, loose straw rubbish— Sucky^ untidy. Tirran^ ill-natured— Tlrrj^, angry — Toy, a ivoman*s cap — Tray, stiff, stul>bom— TraytUtcriy lasy, stupcBed— ■T'rotT) a boggle — Tutnait, piece of arable land next the steadintr. IFim^ mad, furious — UnJUirdy^ unwieldy, overgown. VaiTn having no appetite— Fitffmf it/, insignificant — Vitta, a short journey— FoAr, the spring season. WTo/i/, a signal— R^tfbi, hope— Trc///rnra, the devil. Yammelf born i n the same year. 4 CUOSS AND BURNER. 97 feu-duties formerly payable in grain, and butter, and meal, to the Earl of Zetland, (though made at far too high a price,) has set them at liberty to occupy their lands in the raising of cattle and sheep, to which, in this mild but variable climate^ with a low mean temperature, they are more suited than to the production of grain. And farther, by the landlords fixing a money rent with the tenants, neither are exposed to the uncertainty and fluctuation of grain fiars, and the postponement ofregulartermly settlements. It is not the fault of the soil nor of the climate, however unfavour- able, nor of the industry, intelligence, or enterprise of the inha- bitants, that this country is so far behind the rest of Scotland. The excessive feu-duties, most grossly unjust in their origin, which were payable in kind to the donatory of the Crown, cramp- ed the energies of both landlord and tenant. These duties went out of the country like a tax making no return, and from their na- ture, could not even induce the great man, who received them, to take a patrimonial interest in it. It has often been a matter of wonder how little of favour or encouragement these islands have received at any time from the Government, when it is considered that the population of Orkney and Zetland exceeds that of Ber- wickshire, East Lothian, Roxburghshire, Dumfries-shire, and other counties of note and consideration ; and that there are only thirteen counties in Scotland which exceed these islands in popu- lation, and only eight which exceed them in extent of surface. But to return to rents in kind, they keep back improvement, and yet well-informed landlords are still found giving in to them, just to meet the scruples and prejudices of tenants. Under this sys- tem, the tenant will hardly ever progress ; he must remain sta- tionary, and can derive nothing from his farm, beyond a subsist- ence. In good years, his surplus payments in kind, inferior in quality, because he forces all his land to carry grain, do not leave him a remunerating price for his labour, and in bad years he is charged a high price for what the overwrought soil did not pro- duce to him. The middleman system of letting farms, with a multitude of cottars or small tenants placed at the mercy of the principal te- nant, is fast breaking up. Mr Laing of Papdale gave the first blow to this cottar system on his farm of Stove. When he began the improvement of this farm, he allotted to the cottars, in a dis- trict by themselves, three Scotch acres of arable land each, with about an equal quantity of grass ground ; — for this possession^ with ORKNEY. G 98 ORKNEY. their house and yard, they paid a rent of L. 5, 5s., and ^ere left wholly at liberty, the only condition of their holding being the re- gular payment of the rent. At same time, he offered, if they chose to work kelp, to give them the same price for their labour, L.3 to L.4 per ton, which had been formerly paid to the principal tenant ; and such was the effect of this free system, that men con- sidered notoriously slothful were converted into willing and in- dustrious labourers, and not only was the quantity of kelp greatly increased, but he never wanted good and efficient workmen to hire at fair wages for his farming improvements. Mr Laing's example has been followed with success in the parish of Burness, where, by doing away with all services, by a moderate allowance for improve- ments, a little nursing, and care in helping the small tenants to dispose of their produce to advantage, an addition to the land rents, and a most evident improvement in 'the condition and ha- bits of the occupiers, has been effected. Crops. — By far the greater part of the arable lands in these pa- rishes are still cropped alternately with bear and oats, the enormous supply of sea-weed for manure keeping up the fertility of the land under this scourging system. Potatoes are, however, more exten- sively cultivated than formerly, and on some farms, turnips and sown grasses are introduced into the rotation. The bear is ih in- coated, and meals well, being white in the flour. The weight does not average more than 42 lbs. per bushel, unless where com- post has been applied, when it has reached 48 lbs. per bushel. Turnip and rye-grass seeds are raised, and are found to give great satisfaction, when sown in the southern counties. The soil is ad- mirably adapted to turnip husbandry, and most splendid crops of this valuable esculent may now be seen growing, where a short time since, rabbits alone had possession of the soil. In many places throughout the island, where steadings have been of old, large heaps of rich mould are to be found. These seem to have been the accumulations of the farm manure of many a year, during times when the people were too indolent or too prejudiced to apply it to the soil ; and it is even in the recollection of the writer, that a te- nant of a large farm held his cottars bound, as a service once a year, to clean his dung court, and convey the manure as a nuisance, to the sea-beach, and he has witnessed the wilful burning of the straw, from which forty bolls of grain had been thrashed. In improving the sand links or rabbit warrens, these accumula- tions become a must important auxiliary, for, being trenched and CROSS AND BURNESS. 99 exposed to the frost and the vivifying effects of the air, and after- wards mixed with small kelp and a sufficient quantity of fresh sea- weed to melt it, they form compost, by means of which a great ex- tent of the most unpromising rabbit links is converted into a flou- rishing turnip-field, where properly selected grass seeds are sure to thrive with the next crop. The grass seeds found to suit best for such land, are two bushels of perennial ryegrass ; one bushel of mixed timothy and cocksfoot ; six pounds of ribgrass ; and six pounds of white clover per acre. The Rev. Waller Traill of Wes- tove, has cultivated lucerne in such land with success. Cabbages manured with the sea-weed are also raised to great size ; the com- mon Scotch grey reaching a weight of fourteen pounds each plant. Stock, — The horses used for carriage and draught are good har- dy ponies of from 14 to 15 hands high; many oxen are employed in carting sea- weed ; and the cattle generally are improving in weight and quality. The Neapolitan, the Berkshire, and other im- proved breeds of swine have been introduced, and considerable num- bers are yearly exported alive to Aberdeen and Peterhead. The native breed of sheep, which are kept on tether during the summer, and roam at large over the fields and round the shores, where they eat sea- weed in winter, are not yet extinct, but their numbers are much thinned. They are the short-tailed sheep of Iceland, Shet- land, and the Hebrides. In 1808, Malcolm Laing of Papdale introduced the Merino breed on his property of Stove, and pur- chased rams at high prices from some of the best flocks in the kingdom. They were crossed with Cheviots, and they succeeded most satisfactorily. Mr Laing, one year, it is said, received 7s. 6d. per pound for some of his wool. The wool of clip 1811 of the lambs of some Orkney ewes by a Merino ram, was considered by a wool stapler from Yorkshire, better worth 2s. 8d. per pound, than the wool of the Orkney dams of these lambs was worth 8d. ; and the quantity being about double, made a difference of 9s. 4d. between the fleece of our Orkney ewe and that of her lamb by a Merino tup at shearing time ; a sum equal to the value of the ewe fleece and carcass altogether. Mr Laing found the Orkney cross assimilated faster in fleece than the Cheviot did; but the cross with the Orkney was inferior in carcass to that with the Che- viot* Poultry of all kinds thrive well, and are numerous and cheap. * AgricuHural Report of the Orkney Islands, by John Shirreff, 1814. 100 ORKNEY. Wages, — The wages of a good ploughman are L. 7, 7s. of money, with six bolls of meal, and milk and rabbits. But the greater nuni« ber of farm-servants are employed on the farms for the winter half* year only, for which their wages are from L. 2, 10s. to L.3, and tliey are fed and lodged in the family. Women-servants receive from L. 2, lOs. to L. 3 per annum ; but as they are much engag- ed at home in the plaiting of rye-straw for bonnets, they are un« willing to work in the field, and are generally employed only in the care of cattle or as house-servants. Day-labourers are paid from Is. to Is. 3^1. per day, but, as already observed, very few are thus engaged for money wages, and, as a labourer cannot obtain employment on day's wages throughout the year, there is found to be a scarcity of them when a job occurs for which they are re- quired. Fisheries. — There are in Cross and Burness fourteen boats en* gaged in fishing lobsters ; and fifteen boats and sloops fishing cod and herrings, besides numerous small boats. It has been observ- ed that the inhabitants of Sanday are only beginning to devote at- tention to the fisheries ; but it may not be out of place here to state the quantity of cod caught, cured, and dried in the north isles of Orkney, during the present season, 1840. In the island of Westray, ----- 120 tons. Kday, ---.-- 109 Stronsay, . - . . . 30 Sliapinshay, - .... 65 North llonnldshay, . - . . ]0 Cross and Burne$s, Sanday, . . - J 4 Lady parish, i\o, .... Q Konsay and adjacent Islc^, including sundry small parcels from sonic of the inlands already named, which were sc. paralcly sold and shipped, ... 90 In all, - . 444 tons. Which were so^d by the fishermen themselves for about - L. 5400 When to this is added the value of herrings caught and delivered to curers at Stronsay by North Isles boats, which the writer of this article has no means at hand of correctly ascertaining, but which could hardly be less than an equal sum, he thinks that it will be allowed that the inhabitants of these islands bid fair to do away with the character for supineness and indolence in regard to fish- ing, which has been liberally bestowed upon them by those who were either unacquainted with them, or made no sufficient allowance for their peculiar circumstances. As the cure of cod was almost unknown in Orkney previous to the appointment of fishery- officers to oversee and direct it, the Orkney men had no bad habits, in CROSS AND BURNESS. 101 this respect, to get rid of, and they have so closely followed the excellent directions which have been given them, that their 6sh are acknowledged equal, if not superior, to any that come to mar- ket. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — Of the population, there are adherents of tlie Established church, of all ages, in both parishes, 81 0. Of these 447 are communicants. The adherents of Dissenters of all ages are 181 ; of these, 96 communicate with the United Associate Seceders, who have their meeting-house in Lady parish, and 3 are Anabaptists. There is one parish church in Cross and another in Burness, and divine service is performed in each on the alternate Sundays. 'J'his is a source of great inconvenience both to minister and people. There are in both parishes 102 families further than two miles ; 64 families further than four miles; and 28 families further than six miles distant from one of the churches ; and this tends much to prevent, on the part of the people, a regular Sabbatical attendance at either place of worship. But supposing the people were in general able, as they are very willing, to give a regular weekly attendance, there would still be the serious and palpable want of church accommo- dation, for the church of Cross has only 248 sittings, and that of Burness, including those of the passage, 262. To accommodate, therefore, two-thirds of the church adherents, 292 more sittings are awanting in Cross church, and in Burness, 278. Indeed, neither of the churches can accommodate even the communicants of the establishment The remedy for this, evil would be either the erection of one convenient church for both parishes in a cen- tral situation, or dividing the parishes quoad sacra^ and appointing a pastor to each. The manse is rather an old house, but kept in good repair by the heritors. It is situated in Cross parish, and there is a glebe of about twenty acres, with garden and offices attached. The other glebe in Burness parish, which is rented for L.10 or L.12, has been already noticed. The stipend, payable almost entirely in money, including L.66, 7s. 4d. drawn from the Island of North Ronaldshay, formerly united with these parishes, amounts, with allowance for communion elements, to L.210. Education. — There is only one parochial school in the island, situated at the junction of the three parishes, and there is no other school in Cross or Burness, though female schools are much 102 ORKNEY. wanted. The parochial schoolmasters salary is LAS, 14s. 4|d., and the average yearly amount of school fees received is LblO. The average number of scholars attending the parochial school is 53. Poor. — The number of poor persons receiving aid from the session in Cross is 13, and in Bumess, 1 1 ; and the sum dis- tributed to each has been 2s. 6d. The amount of collections for the poor at the churches has been L. 5, 10s. yearly, which, with a donation of L. 1, Is. from Mr Balfour of Trenaby, has formed the amount of the provision for the poor, excepting that there is, on Mr Laing's property of Stove, a mortiBcation by the proprietor of four small cotts or farms, worth now L.5, 5s. each of yearly rent, for supporting four superannuated ser- vants, who spend thirty years in constant service on the princi- pal farms ; failing whom, the session are empowered to draw the rent for behoof of the poor upon the farm of Stove in the first in- stance, and, in lack of them, for the general poor of the parish. The charity has not latterly been well administered, and hardly any one of the persons now in possession of the iarms are'paupers of the description contemplated by Mr Fea, the benevolent mort- gager, nor are they entitled to hold them. FueL — There are no peat-mosses in the Island of Sanday, and the inhabitants of Cross and Bumess are consequently ill supplied with fuel. Each family endeavours to procure a boat or more of peats from the neighbouriDg Island of Eday, to which the cottar adds prepared cow and horse dung, and the larger tenants coals from the Frith of Forth or Newcastle. Miscellaneous Observations* It is evident that these parishes are still capable of very great improvement. Steam-navigation, which has now reached Kirk- wall, were it also brought through the islands, would do much, by making the transit of grain, cattle, and other produce free from the uncertainty attending sailing-vessels. But perhaps the most hopeful prospect of improvement would be from the sale of some of the estates now in the market to men of capital and enterprise. A few tenants from improved districts are also wanted, not theo- rising speculative gentlemen farmers, who might cavil and carp at things as they are, without knowing how to mend them ; but hard-working sure-going men, with sufficient capital, and with common sense enough to make their plans conform to soil, cli- mate, and circumstances; in fact, just such characters as are usually described to be the most suitable for emigrating to the CROSS AND BURNESS. 1C3 colonies ; and it has often struck the writer as wonderful, that young farmers, as well as men of capital, should attempt the back woods of Canada, or expose themselves to the privations of dry and scorching seasons in Australia, when such good opportu- nities for tuniing their skill to account, and for investing their ca- pital, were to be found so much nearer home, in a comparatively mild climate, and among a people proverbially kind to strangers, and generally as well-informed and as companionable as any in Scotland. North Ronaldsha.* — The Rev. Adam White, Minister. Extent, §•{?. — The island of North Ronaldsha, the most nor- therly of the Orkney group, is separated from the island of San- day by a frith of about three miles broad where narrowest ; and lies upwards of thirty miles from Kirkwall, nearly in the direction of north-east In form, the island is very irregular, but never ex- ceeds two miles in breadth, and, in length, measures about five miles from the two extreme points, though there are scarcely four between the two most remote dwelling-houses. It is calculated to contain about four square miles. On the south and east sides of the island, where the beach is for the most part low, shelving and sandy, the shape is probably much altered from what it ori- ginally was, as a considerable extent of ground seems to have been gained from the sea by the gradual accumulation of sand, which is every winter drifted up from the beach, and spreads over the grounds above. The west and north-west sides are rocky and abrupt, though not very elevated, and there is often such a heavy surf breaking upon the rocks, that the spray renders the land, to the distance of some hundred yards, quite black and sterile. To- wards the north-east, the shores of the island are, in some measure, protected by two reefs of rocks, called the altars of Lina and the Shelky Skerry. Topographical Appearance. — The general surface of the island is rather flat, having only a gentle rise toward the middle. It is much above the average of the other islands in point of dryness, and, with the exception of a small strip about the middle, and an edging round the shore, kept as a lair for sheep, it is all in a state of cultivation. Its superior dryness it owes very much to the large * Drawn up by the Rev. Adam White, Minister of the parish. l04 ORKNEY. mixture of shell-sand found in its soil, and partly also to there being proper declivities for the water discharging itself into the sea. There are but three bays ; the South bay, Ness bay (on the south-east side), and Linket bay (on the east.) None of these aro safe anchorages, and, excepting in mild weather, no vessel can remain upon the coast The chief headlands are Twingas, Strom- ness, Brides-ness, and Dennis-ness. Zoology, — The fish which are found on the shores or in the neigh- bouring seas, are such as are common to all Orkney. Those which are most frequently caught for home consumption, are siliks and cuthcs, — the coal-fish, I believe, in the first and second years of their existence ; and those which are caught for the market, are lobsters and cod. The Shelky Skerry mentioned above is much frequented by the great seal or Phoca major. There are always some about it ; but in winter, great numbers occasionally arrive from the north seas, and sometimes bring forth their young upon the rock. The islanders are on the watch, and often secure the strangers by going out in a midnight ex|>edition with clubs, on which occasions they have been known to kill as many as three score. A successful expedi- tion of this kind is a matter of no small rejoicing, as a good sup- ply of oil is obtained from the seal. A great variety of birds frequent the island, but none of them are of a rare description, unless perhaps the red-necked phalarope ( Tringa hgperboreajj which visits North Konaldsha in consider- able numbers about the middle of June, and departs early in Sep- tember. It makes its nest among the reeds about the lochs, and lays four eggs of a dingy olive colour with brown spots. It is pretty tame, and allows its motions, which are very graceful, to be observed at a small distance. After north-east gales of some continuance, many strange birds are occasionally found, such as the goatsucker, the golden-crested wren, the cuckoo, and the snowy owl. II. — Civil History. The island is wholly the property of William Traill, Esq. of Woodwick, who, however, does not reside upon it. It appears anciently to have been divided into three nearly equal parts, — the mounds which formed the division, and which are of a considerable height and breadth, being still almost uninjured. The only other things which bear the appearance of antiquity, are the remains (all under ground) of an old castle, called still Burrion Castle, and a large erect flat stone, rising ten or twelve feet perpendicular CROSS AND BURNESS. 105 above the ground, much the same in size and appearance as those found in other parts of Orkney, especially in the parish of Firth and Stenness. Concerning the one here, there is no tradition either as to its original use or the period of its erection. III. — Population. Habits of the People. — The customs of the people are much the same as those prevalent in other parts of Orkney. One only seems to be quite peculiar, and is almost uniformly observed at funerals, — the nearest of kin present being always expected to throw upon the coffin the first spadeful of earth. In the case of near re* latives, this comes to be a very painful service ; but it is regarded as a sacred duty, and is not declined even by the most afflicted widow. What may have been the origin of the practice, it is per- haps impossible to ascertain ; but now, it is evidently considered as a proper mark of tenderness and respect towards the deceased. It is reported in the former Statistical Account, that the popu- lation was then (1791) 420, — 2 1 1 males and 209 females. By the census taken in 1831, the population was 522, — 247 males and 275 females ; exhibiting an increase in forty years of 102 in- habitants. The amount in April 1 836 did not exceed 480, which is owing to a new division of the lands having been made in 1832, when the number of houses was reduced, and about eighty persons left the island. The total number of families, - - - - 112 inhabited houses, - - - - 85 The yearly average of births for the last five years, (not having data to go far- ther back), ---.-. 18 The yearly average of marriages, - - - - 3 deaths, - - • - • 6| Number or unmarried men above 50 years of age, - - widowers, - • - - - - 8 unmarried women above 45, - - - 5 These facts will be found to speak very highly for the general healthfulness and prosperity of the population of the island. There is not a single person at the cige of fifty, who has not felt himself able, or at least thought he was so, to support a wife and family, all who have reached that age being married ; and what is perhaps still more extraordinary, out of the whole number, three only are widowers, and these very old men, while there are but five females, who may be said to be without hope of marriage. Then look to the small number of deaths as compared with the number of births, the one being little more than one-third of the other ; and what is most extraordinary of all, the small number of deaths in proportion to the whole population. The rate of mortality, judging from the last 106 ORKNEY. five years, is only 1 in 77. The average number of the popula- tion in each year has been, as nearly as possible, 495 ; and even taking 7 as the average number of deaths, it makes the rate of mortality 70f • This almost exceeds credibility ; but there is one thing to be mentioned in explanation of it, which is, that there are some persons, almost every year, leaving the island inquest of em- ployment, who seldom return to reside in it, while there are none coming from other places to reside here. Consequently, the nam* ber of deaths in the island will scarcely give a correct representa- tion of the deaths of those who belong to it. This, however, could not affect the rate of mortality very much ; and by employing a different method for ascertaining the rate, taking the average age of the persons who have died during the period in question, it is still brought up to 62. The facts will fully substantiate this pro- portion. The people are uncommonly healthy and robust. Ex- cepting a very few who die in infancy, — and these seldom exceed- ing one in the twelvemonth, — deaths among the young are exceed- ingly rare. By far the greatest number of deaths take place on those who have reached sixty-five or upwards ; and yet compara- tively few outlive eighty. Occasional instances of very great lon- gevity will bo found no test of the general healthfulness of the po- pulation, or of the average term of life ; and it is precisely among a population like that of this island, that these attain their maxi- mum, where all arc accustomed to laborious occupations and ex- posure to every kind of weather, which tend, in the first instancoi to render the bodily frame hardy and robust, and, at the same time, prevent it from reaching an extreme old age. There is a great deal of native politeness and much kindness of heart among the people ; but in domestic comforts, they are certainly far behind the general run of peasantry in the southern districts; — not that they are generally more deficient in the ma- terials of comfort, — for every house almost has two or more cows, a pig, several sheep, and abundance of poultry. But there is a great want of neatness and cleanliness in the management of household matters, so that their condition has nothing of the tidy and comfortable appearance of what is now to be met with in houses of a like description in the south. And for any ef- fectual improvement in this respect, there are two formidable bar- riers in the way, which are not likely soon to be overcome. The women have much work to do out of doors, a species of work, too, which peculiarly unfits them for the neat management of house- CROSS AND BURNESS. 107 hold concerns, such as cutting sea-weed for kelp, carrying up ware for manure on their backs, and spreading it on the land ; and be- sides, the construction of their houses is very unfavourable, which are not only not plastered but not even built with lime,, and seldom have any semblance of a chimney even upon the roof, — while, for the sake of having each part of the house supplied with an equal share of heat, the fire-place is most commonly planted in the mid<- dle of the floor. The smoke consequently finds its way in every direction, and to keep either the walls or the utensils in a state of proper cleanliness, is next to impossible. Yet the present form of houses is much superior to what was possessed by the last genera- tion ; and this form may soon perhaps give way to another in a higher state of improvement. The greatest natural discomfort, however, under which the in- habitants of this island labour, is the scarcity of fuel. There are no peats in it, nor any to be found nearer than the Island of Eday, which is fifteen miles distant. Of course, very few are able.to sup* ply themselves with fuel of that description ; a considerable num- ber get a partial supply ; making up the deficiency with cow-dung converted into what are called scons^ and the stronger kind of sea- weed. Many can afford nothing but the two last, and in cold weather they are often in a very comfortless condition. This is an evil beyond remedy, as there is not the least chance of the bulk of the population ever being able to lay in a sufficient provi- sion either of coals or of peats. There are no blind, deaf, or dumb in the island, and but two idiots, and one fatuous person. . IV. — Industry. The island is altogether of an agricultural character. With the exception of two weavers and one tailor, there are none who do not spend the chief part of their time in the labours of the field. The subdivision of labour is here only in its infancy. Most of the men are able to sew, and at leisure hours make or repair their every-day clothes. The wool, out of which these are made, is all carded and spun on the little wheel by the women, who are for the most part exceedingly industrious. And besides the three re- gular men of handicraft above-mentioned, there are a good many who work occasionally as smiths, carpenters, and boat- builders; but they have all farms or shares in farms, to which they chiefly look for their subsistence ; and even the three who are the most exclusive in their employments, always shear in harvest and go 108 ORKNEY. out to some of the Gsheries in summer. This mixture of employ* ments is not favourable either to great skill or to much profit in any particular department : but with such a limited field, and es- pecially surrounded with so many who have both the leisure and the inclination in most things to help themselves, it is scarcely possible for any one to gain a sufiicient livelihood by confining himself to any single occupation. In the last Statistical Account, ninety-four persons were stated ta be engaged in agriculture, and nineteen in fishing. This division^ however, was formed, not because there was a complete distinction between the two classes of persons, but because their principal sup- port was derived from these respective occupations. Judging by the outlay of time, all of them might be designated as agricultu- rists, — as, during eight months in the year, their main employment is connected with husbandry. But in this, younger brothers and sometimes other relatives give their work for their food, while for every thing besides they must be indebted to the lobster and her- ring-fisheries ; and these, therefore, may with propriety be named from the occupation which yields them most advantage. There are also about a dozen employed as farm- servants, and two men who are called millers, though a large part of their time is spent otherwise, the one as a smith, the other as a carpenter. These are the only divisions that subsist among the inhabitants of this island. There is no merchant, no baker, no shoemaker, no innkeeper ; and the consolation of being without the last, is al- most enough to reconcile one to the inconvenience arising from the absence of the rest. This is an inconvenience felt only by the few, who are in the habit of using things, which the island itself does not furnish, and a little care and experience soon teaches them how to provide against it. Agriculture, — The cultivated part of the island has never been exactly measured ; but about a fourth only of the whole surface is waste, the greater part of which is the portion along the west and north-west side, which is rendered sterile by the spray. This portion may therefore be regarded as hopelessly sterile. But the small tract in the interior, which is still unreclaimed, is now divided off, and promises in a few years to be all in a state of cultivation. Rental, — The whole rental of the island is nearly L. 500. The sort of farms and the style of farming which prevail here, are rather of a primitive nature. With the exception of one farm, which pays a rent of about L. 80, ther&is none that exceeds L.25, 3 CROSS AND BURNESS. 109 and the greater part are much below this. It was the policy of the landlords in this country to subdivide the land, and encou- rage the increase of population as much as possible, for the pur- pose of obtaining a sufficient number of labourers to manufac- ture the kelp ; and now when they would fain adopt an opposite policy, and enlarge the size of their farms, the excess of popula- tion meets them with an insuparable difficulty. Until a few years ago, indeed, there was no such thing as a separate and distinct farm in this island ; it was divided into five townships or districts, each containing a considerable number of houses scattered up and down, amongst which the land, both pasture and arable, was'equally di- vided; and that none might have the advantage of another, not only was every plot of arable ground divided, but an exchange made every year, — so that improvement was impossible, and the indus- trious had no encouragement for their industry. In 1832, this system was wisely broken up, and the whole island squared off into little farms, lying contiguous to the several houses. A new and higher scale of rents was, at the same time, agreed upon, which ren- dered the measure unpopular; but considerable allowances were for some years to be made for improvements in drains and enclo- sures, of which the more industrious have so far availed themselves, as both greatly to improve their farms, and to pay their rent with- out much difficulty. But excepting on the larger farm, and par- tially on one or two others, there is no regular rotation kept Up. The land is alternately cropped with bear and oats — a mode of cultivation which is not likely to be soon abandoned, as it is much favoured by the large quantities of sea-weed drifted to the shore, and almost rendered necessary by the demand for winter fodder to their cattle. They can consequently grow nothing but the in- ferior kinds of grain, bear, or bigg, and the small grey or black oat. About 1500 bolls of the former are raised, and 1200 of the latter; and of these quantities nearly one-third is exported. The bear commonly weighs 44 lbs. per bushel ; after turnips it has been found to weigh as high as 48 lbs. ; and the oats are generally from 25 to 28 lbs. Although, however, the old system of alternate cropping is still prevalent, great improvements in farming have taken place during the last twelve years, chiefly owing to the good example and ju« dicious management of the gentleman, (Mr Robert Scarth,) who, during that period, has been acting as factor on the property. There was then but one cart in the island, which was never used. 110 ORKNEY. as the horse showed some disiDclinatioD to go into it ; only one two -stilted plough, no inclosures, and both horses and cattle were exceedingly small and trifling. The latter have been much improved by crosses from Dunrobin bulls, and are now equal to the average show of cattle in Orkney. The horses are also greatly improved in size and strength. Enclosures are to be seen on every side, completed or in progress. Every house is furnished with a neat and well-made plough, commonly of wood, but sometimes also of iron — a valuable substitute, indeed, for the old one*sttlted shapeless thing they used before, which rather broke up the ground than turned it over. And a still greater advantage is derived from the introduction of carts, with one or more of which every house is now supplied. Before, every thing had to be carried on horse- back, either in sacks or in a sort of wooden creels, which they used for bringing up their ware to the land, and such other articles as could not be put into sacks. In this way an immense deal of time was lost, which they can now save and turn to good ac- count. So that, in an agricultural point of view, the island at present stands upon a far better footing, than it did twelve years ago- The only other thing to be noticed under this head is the con- dition of the sheep, which is just as bad as can well be conceived. With the exception of a very few kept on the largest farm for killing, they are all shut outby a high dike, which encompasses the whole island to the mere shores, and a little bit of waste ground left for them here and there. Their sole food almost, is the sea- weed that^happens to be drifted ashore, and as this comes most plentifully during winter, that is their fattening season, especially before the^cold weather of the new year sets in. They are chiefly kept for the wool, from which all that is worn in every-day cloth- ing is manufactured ; but every house has a practice of killing one on yule or Christmas eve, which goes by the name of the yule sheep. And on the forenoon of that day, there is a great gather- ing, at a certain place, of all the men and sheep in the island, for the selection of the several victims! Fisheries. — The only fisheries that are carried on with a view to the market, are those of lobster, herring, and cod. In the first, six boats, each having two men, are engaged every year from about the beginning of May to the middle of June. The fish are sold to a London Company, whose welled smacks call for them regularly once a week, at a place about ten miles distant, in the CROSS AND BURNESS. 11] adjoining island of Sanday. The price given varies from 3d. to S^d per fish : and it is reckoned a fair fishing, when each boat catch- es about 600 fish. To the herring-fishing fourteen boats are furnished by the island, all above 24 and some of^ them 28 feet keeL They have been built by two workmen in the island, who are in a great measure self-taught; and they are considered thestrongest and finest boats in Orkney. They are all held in shares, each the property of four men, who man them ; and sometimes a young person is hired in as a fifth hand. As boatmen, they are not deficient either in skill or boldness ; but they have never been very successful in the fishery, and the last two years have been so unfavourable, that many have not gained as much as is sufficient to cover their out- lay. The station they frequent is in Stronsay, th&only one for the cure of herrings in the north Isles of Orkney. Until the summer of the year 1836, the cod-fishing had scarcely ever been tried here ; the people having usually been employed in making kelp, during the part of the season most suitable for that. The greatest drawback the island has to contend with, in carry- ing on any fishery that requires large boats, is the want of a safe anchorage. The men are obliged to draw up their boats in the pro- spect of bad weather, or shift them from one side of the island to another, — both of which are the cause of great trouble and in- convenience. Manufactures, — The only kind of manufacture carried on in the island, is kelp. As many as 120 tons have been made in one year, tliough the average would not exceed 100. To get even that quantity requires considerable pushing on the part of the land- lord ; and now that he has no inducement to do so, the average will be still less. The kelp from this island had always a high character in the market, and has commanded a sale every year as yet, though latterly at very low prices. But as long as it can be sold without any actual loss, it will still be an object for the landlord to get it made ; as nearly one-third of the rental is made up by the allowances given for the manufacture of this article, which, but for this, would remain unpaid. The allowance given is at the rate of L. 2, 2s. per ton. A man with his family will make a ton and a-half in ordinary seasons. It has been lately dis- covered that the kelp made of drift sea-weed, is valuable for the iodine it contains, and for that purpose is worth L. 4 per ton. 112 ORKNEY. But it is only about a sixth part of the whole kelp of this island, that is made of drift sea-weed. V. — Parochial Economy. This island had always been a separate parish, until lately com- bined with other two, Cross and Burness, in the neighbouring island of Sanday, under one charge. The clergymen having to travel a dis- tance of not less than four miles by land and six by sea, it was impos- sible there could be regular ministrations in the island, or any pro* per pastoral superintendence established. Indeed, as to all the be- nefits of a regular ministry, the people might be said to be total strangers; and being besides nearly all on a level among themselves, no one, from his superior wealth or station in society, to command an influence over the rest, they afforded an example of a people in the common ranks of life, very much left to their own discretion. There were a few things, however, to temper and modify the na- tural result of such a state of things. Each district had its elder, who was commonly a person of Respectability and worth, and was allowed a considerable weight in the settlement of disputes. Then, proudly elevated above these stood the bailie^ the acknowledged head of all the natives, and looked up to with no small respect ; who was appointed to the honourable distinction by the landlord, and was generally chosen with impartiality. The last one, who died only two years ago, and with whom the office also expired, was a person of great reading for one in his rank of life, and was in the habit pretty regularly of reading a sermon to the people on Sunday, and conducting a Sabbath school. This certainly was productive of some good, though not so much as might be suppos- ed, — the authority being still wanting, which was necessary to enforce, on the part of the people, a proper attention. Besides these authorities, the factor occasionally resided on the island, and an annual visit was paid by the landlord ; but their stay was too short and irregular to have much influence in moulding the habits and characters of the people. In ] 829, a manse was erected on the island, under the Commis- sioners for Planting New Churches in the Islands and Highlands, and in the following year a clergyman was ordained. The island was then virtually erected into a separate parochial charge, though it was not constituted such till the summer of 1833. Great joy was testified by the people at the settlement of a minister among them. There used to be a good deal of pilfering, when a shipwreck CROSS AND BURNESS. 113 took place, — which was not looked upon as proper stealing. Many persons thought themselves at liberty to appropriate goods of that description, who were never known to steal an article from their neighbours. A good deal had been done to check the evil by the vigorous measures of Mr Scarth ; but the discipline of the church was required to put an effectual stop to it. A very different feel- ing now prevails upon the subject. Shipwrecked property has come to be regarded as personal property ; and people who were once in the habit of taking it without shame or remorse, express openly the change that has taken place in their views* At the last two or three wrecks, scarcely any thing was stolen. During the winter season, it was customary to carry on a perpe- tual succession of merry-makings, called balls. Every marriage, was the occasion of two — the bride's friends being at the expense of the wedding-feast, and the best-man feeling himself called upon to give the back-feast^ which occurred a month or two after the wedding, and in which he was assisted by contributions from some of the other young men in the immediate neighbourhood. Be- sides these regular meetings, a great many more were added to fill up the void. Their moral effect was decidedly pernicious in va- rious ways ; but the kirk-session having interfered, little or no ex« cess of this kind takes place. By the same interference smuggling may now be said to be al- most, if not completely abolished. In general habits, the people are, now at least, remarkably de- cent and sober. Education. — There is a school in the island supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. ORKNEY. H PARISH OF WESTRAY. PRESBYTERY OF NORTH ISLES, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. THE REV. JOHN ARMIT, MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Westray obviously derives its name from tha place it holds among the group of islands which lie to the north of the mainland of Orkney, called North Isles. It is situated in the north-west extremity of the country, and is the isle farthest west of the group. Extent. — Its superficial contents may amount to about 25 square miles. But, owing to its very irregular form, its numerous inlets, and projecting points, its precise dimensions cannot be ascertained but by an experienced surveyor. In the centre, and towards the eastern parts, the sur&ce, with few exceptions, is low and flat ; but in the Rapness district, which forms the southern extremity, the ground on the north or north-east suddenly rises, which makes the shore in that quarter bold and lofty. The precipices there may be from 140 to 150 feet above the level of the sea. Topographical Appearances. — In the western extremity, there is a range of hills called Skea, Fitty, and Gallo, &c. extending from south to north, to the distance of four miles and upwards. On Fitty, the highest of these, the trigonometrical surveyors, in the autumn of 1821, pitched their tents, and erected a temporary building, which remains nearly entire. The height of this hill, as then ascer- tained, was, to the best of my recollection, 652 feet above the level of the sea. The island on the western extremity, to the distance of more than four miles, is bounded by a shore of perpendicular rock, washed by the floods of the Atlantic. At its base, from which the sea never recedes, a few places only excepted, the depth is from eight to twenty fathoms. All along the lofty and rugged clifls of this shore, an immense variety of sea fowl nestle and bring forth their young ; and numbers of the young and old birds, dur- ing the season of incubation, are taken by the inhabitants, both for food and their feathers, which they turn to good account. 3 WE ST RAY. 115 Caverns. — Here, besides many curious excavations in the appa- rently solid rock, are to be seen subterraneous caverns, formed by the influx and reflux of the sea. In some of these, the water at high tide, and in tempestuous weather, is forced up through nar- row crevices of the rock to the distance of nearly a quarter of a mile landward, and bursting out at the surface from oriflces of its own formation, springs up in the air to a surprizing height Among ihe natural curiosities of the kind here to be met with, that called the Fort, evidently formed by the action of the sea, may not be deemed unworthy of notice. This remarkable place is situated in the northern boundary of that part of the island called Akemess, the property of Dr George Traill of Skail. Here, standing upon a lofty precipice, you see, underneath, an immense caldron in perpetual agitation, from which a hideous and gorging noise ever and anon ascends, stunning the ear. You can walk nearly half-way round this mighty caldron, on high pillars of solid rock, arched over with the same solid material. One or two broken or separated columns, standing out furthest in the circle, from which the arches seem to have been swept away by the agitated element, heightens very much the grandeur of the scene, and gives to it an appearance truly picturesque. It is said to bear a strong resemblance to the Bullers of Buchan, on the Aberdeen coast. Bai/8, — Besides numerous small creeks and inlets, which indent the shores of Westray, there are at least three or four which come under the description of bays, namely, the Bay of Tookquoy, Pi- crowall, Noop, and Rapness. The Bay of Tookquoy is broad and long, the distance between the headlands being between four and five miles, — and long, penetrating about five miles into the bosom of the island, and gradually narrowing as it ascends, until it terminates in a shore of about one mile, or three-quarters of a mile broad. It is all over a sandy bottom, and is esteemed good anchoring ground ; but the depth of water is too shallow for admitting, to the safe and proper station, vessels of a large size. It is, moreover, quite unsafe for a road-stead, as it lies expos- ed to gales from the south and south-west, which cause a heavy sea over the whole bay to its inmost extremity. Only boats and craft of the smallest size can harbour safely here, and that, too, not until they get round at the head of the bay into a small basin, called by the inhabitants the Use, and defended from the sea beach by a bank of sand and stones. 116 ORKNEY. The Bay of Picrowall is quite of a different descriptioD.* It is a remarkably fine basin, not above three-quarters of a mile broad at the entrance, but within wide and spacious, and nearly of a circular form. The bottom is sand, and excellent anchoring ground. The place being completely land-locked, any vessel moored in it is quite safe from every point of wind. But it is also too ebb for admitting vessels of a very large size. It may be deemed safe for all below 200 tons burden, but not above that size. The Bay of Noop, which faces the north, lies quite open and exposed to the fury of the Atlantic. With a gale blowing on shore, there is no safety for any vessel entering this bay ; and not a few have met their sad fate from a reef of rocks that lie quite across the bay, called the Bow of RackwicL The Bay of Rapness, at the opposite extremity of the island, looks to tliQ south, and is also an open bay, and therefore far from being a safe one, especially when the wind blows from any point touching the south or south-east. Headlands. — The principal headlands around this isle are the Noop-head, or the stack of Noop, on the north ; the flag of Inno- * val on the west ; the Knowe of Skae on the south-west ; the Neve or Ness of Ackerness on the north-east ; the Point of Rapness on the south-east; and Weatherness on the north-east, in the south- ern extremity of the island. In the Island of Papay, as there are DO bays, there may be said to be no headlands of any note. Meteorology. — The temperature of Westray may be said to be much on a par with that of the other islands or the country at large. The medium heat will be found to amount to 45° ; the range of the thermometer, between the extremes of cold in winter and heat in summer, from 25^ to 75^; and that of the barometer, three inches. Hydrography. — This island is bounded on the south by a frith rapid and broad, which separates it from the Island of Rousay and Eglishay by a distance of about eight miles. It is called Westray Frith, and has its strength of current from the Atlantic rolling into it from the west, and the German Ocean from the east One part of it is peculiarly dangerous, as, at a certain time of the tide, the last of the ebb, contrary currents meet, and rolling up * There being originally a small pier erected at the head of the bay for boats the adjacent district is ciuJed Wall,— hence Pier.o*-wall. 4 WESTRAY. 117 into tremendous breakers, render it a fearful gulf. The tideway in this frith is reckoned the same with that of the Pentland, which, in spring-tides, runs at the rate of eight knots an hour. The depth of water is from 20 to 50 fathoms. On the west, this island is bounded by the Atlantic ; on the east, by a small portion of sea called a sound, which separates it from the Islands of Ferey and Eday ; and on the north and north-east, by another sound, sepa- rating it from that portion of the parish called Papa-Westray. The breadth of the proper ferry between the two islands may bo reckoned from three to four miles. Papaya Westray. — This island forms another constituent part of the parochial charge. Whence it derives its name can only be matter of conjecture. It is of an oval form, and is exactly one mile broad, and about three and a half long, making its superficial contents three and a half square miles. In the middle, it rises in the form of a ridge, and gently declines on both sides, until it reaches the sea shore. In this shape, it runs nearly the whole length of the island. But, on the north extremity, it terminates in a headland, bold and lofty, called the Mull of Papay. At this headland, is a cave, deemed one of the greatest natural curiosities of the kind to be met with, perhaps, in all the country. Its inte- rior presents the appearance of an immense amphitheatre. The roof, upwards of 70 feet in height, is somewhat like a regular built arch, — the beds of rock on every side rising the one above the other in the form of steps in a stair. The entrance is about 50 feet in width, the breadth of the middle part about 60, and the most interior,' 48. The floor has a little inclination outwards, but its surface is smooth and even to the foot of the traveller. It is well worth being seen by strangers visiting the island. It is called the How of Habrahelia. The southern extremity of this island is also somewhat elevated, but not nearly so much as that of its op- posite. In this quarter, there is a beautiful fresh*water lake, which extends nearly across the whole island, from the one side of it to the other ; and in one part of this lake, there is a kind of islet, and on that a ruin of a chapel, said to have been dedicated to a female saint of the name of Tredwall ; and such was the veneration enter- tained by the inhabitants for this ancient Saint, that it was with difficulty that the first Presbyterian minister of the parish could restrain them, of a Sunday morning, from paying their devotions at this ruin, previous to their attendance on public worship in the 118 ORKNEY. reformed church. Wonders, in the way of cure of bodily disease, are said to have been wrought by this Saint, whose fame is now passed away, and name almost forgotten. A small glebe excepted, this island belongs exclusively to one proprietor, who, with his family, constantly resides in it; and, for a length of time, was the only residing heritor in the parish, and Justice of the Peace. A large proportion of this island is under culture, and enclosed with stone dikes. It is deemed among the most fertile of the islands in Orkney, both for pasture and arable land. Here clover, white and red, grows spontaneously, and of a rich quality. Here turnips are raised, of a more extraordinary size and weight than in warmer climes and apparently richer soils. The proprietor of Papa Westray has, within these eight- or ten years, erected a garden, which promises to do very well as a kit« chen garden. Though currant and gooseberry have not succeeded to expectation, yet apple-trees supported on the wall have been wonderfully productive.* Lakes. — In Westray there are four considerable lakes, viz. the Loch of Swartmill, in the Skailwick district ; the Lioch of Took- quay, in the south-west district ; and the Lochs of Saintear and JBurness, in the north part of the parish. All these lakes are much about one size, measuring nearly half a mile in length to a quarter in breadth, — Burness excepted, which is not so large. The water in the lake of Swartmill is peculiarly dark and muddy, owing to its lying in the centre of a large peat-moss. There are no fishes in this lake, except common eel. The water in the lake of Took- quay is soft and clear, and answers well all the purposes of wash- ing and bleaching ; but there are no fish in it, owing to its want of communication with the sea. • The water in the lakes of Sain- tear and Burness are also transparent, and answer equally well the purposes above-mentioned. Burness, the upper lake, empties * It may not, perhaps, be out of place hereto meni ion, that PapaWcstray is notable in history for being the scene of a cruel murder. Ronald, one of the £arb of Orkney, vho is represented as an amiable and accomplished nobleman, and much beloved by his subjects, happening to come to this island direct from his palace at Kirkwall, attended by a small retinue, on a domestic concern, and, towards the ap« proach of the Christmas season, was, in the course of the night or late in the even- ing, while sitting by the fireside indulging himself in mirth and conversation with his companions, suddenly surprised by Thorsin Earl of Caithness, and his armed fol- lowers investing the house and setting fire to it ; and though, by superior strength and ogility, he escaped the conflagration, yet his place of retreat was soon afterwards dis- covered by the barking of his own dog, whence he was taken, and, together with his companions, inhumanly butchered. His remains are said to have been carried over to Westray, and interred amidst the lamentations of the people. WESTRAY. 119 itself into Saintear, the loweri and that again in the Bay of Picro- wall. There are trout in both these lakes, and their season of spawning is in September and Qctober. In these months, tbej are often caught in their way up the stream from the sea. Geology and Mineralogy, — The strata of rock round this and the other island consist of limestone of the mixed and impure kind, and of the trap formation, twisted and scattered in all directions on the coast. There are also here two kinds of flagstone, distin- guished by the colour, blue and grey. The blue, like the rock of that colour, is hard, and accounted the most durable of the two. It is chiefly found by the sea shore, and considerably down from the high-water mark. The greystone flag is found in abundance, all over the Island of Westray, and of various thickness, from half an inch to three or four inches. Several quarries of it have, within these six or eight years, been opened for the purpose of making slate for houses. But the common people roof their houses with both kinds, just as they happen to be within their reach, and put them on in the same state in which they raise them, measuring sometimes from eight to ten feet square. This makes roofing here as easy as building. Purejimestone is also found in Westray. About thirty-eight years ago, a good deal was quarried on one estate, the estate of Cleat, and, being burnt, was found of good quality. In this island, organic remains are found imbedded in peat-moss, belonging both to the animal and vegetable kingdoms. In one large moss, great quantities of birch and birch-bark are annually dug up, in the operation of cutting peats ; and report says, that horns of deer have frequently been discovered in different parts of the moss. These fossils would indicate that forest wood, at some early period, existed in the island, and that deer had then been an inhabitant of the place. The wonder is, that no forest or growing wood of any extent is now to be seen either in this or in any other island in the country, though similar fossils abound. And it is a matter no less surprising, that every attempt to raise forest wood in the open fields, evep in the most sheltered spots, has hitherto proved abortive. The only ore discovered in this island is manganese. The dark- brown colour on the scum of water springs, in many places, plainly shows its plentiful existence. The alluvial deposits which cover sandstone and limestone consisti 120 ORKNEY. for the most part, of sand, peat, gravel, clay, marl, and i^metinies loam. Rolled blocks are not unfrequently found in valleys and meadows, where, in all probability, some mighty flood has swept them down from the higher grounds in their vicinity, to their pre- sent state of imbedment. No remains of animals, except of the maWne kind, are found here in the alluvial deposits, and of these only cockle and mussel, and shell of the razor-fish, are seen and in great plenty imbedded in sandy soil, at considerable distance from and above the fevel of the sea. There is almost every species of soil in Westray. In the north part of the island, the soil most prevalent is sand ; but there are also to be seen in different parts of the same district, clay, gravel, and loam. The last -mentioned chiefly consists of small spots of ground, which have been long under culture, and improved too by the transportation of earths in a composite state. This, I think, will be found invariably the case where loam in any quarter of the island is seen. In the south west district, which comprehends Frebbay, Midbay, and Outo'*town, the soil in general is sandy, in some places gravelly, especially on the farm of Tookquoy ; and small spots of loam occur in most of the little farms in that neigh- bourhood. In the east and south-east districts, comprehending Cleat, Skailwick, and Rapness, the soil is alternate clay and peat- moss, with partial exceptions of gravel. The clay in all these quarters is, for the most part, of a very cold and wet nature, by reason of its proximity to the rock. Hitherto, we have taken no- tice of such soils only as are under culture, and it may be said with truth, that these in any quarter scarcely go beyond the skirts of the island, and do not constitute above one-tenth of its superfi- cial contents. The interior consists of an immense tract of common hill and d.ile lying in a state of nature, and separated everywhere from the cultivated lands by a turf dike, within which all the flocks and most of the bestial of the island, milk cows only excepted, are shut, during the summer and autumn, until the crops are removed from the ground and lodged in the barn-yards, when the styles are again laid open and the flocks left to range at pleasure. In many places of this extensive common, the soil is excellent, being in general of a rich whitish clay, and capable of being cultivated to advantage. But there are also large tracks, where the soil is ex- Ircmely poor and wet, upon which little improvement could be made, to repay the trouble and expense of the cultivator. WE8TRAY. 121 • The 8oil in Papa-Westray is generally of a deep loam, where it has been long cultivated. In some parts, it is gravellyi in others clayey, and in some places a poor and insipid sand. Zoology. — There is not, to my knowledge, in this island, any animal that can properly be called rare, if we except a mouse of large size, nearly twice that of the common black mouse, and of light-brown colour. It is called by the inhabitants the vole- mouse. It is seldom or ever seen in a barn-yard or about houses. It commonly keeps by the sea shore, and burrows in the ground, especially in old feal dikes and among stones. There is a peculiarity in regard to this island, which may be mentioned, and whiqh, I understand, holds in regard to some other islands in this county, namely, that no rat can live in it. It is asserted that, though this quadruped has often been imported by ships, it never survives for any length of time ; whereas, in the other and less fre- quented isle, it abounds, and is extremely destructive. There it was imported by a wrecked vessel. It is well known that the grey eagle, which now visits the island only occasionally, was wont to nestle in the lofty precipices of the shores on the north, but that the bird-catchers, year after year, seiz- ing upon their brood, drove them away to seek a safer retreat from the hand of the spoiler. Hence, they are seldom seen here, except when hovering about in quest of their prey, or on their passage to the other and more inaccessible parts of the country, such as the Hoy hills and Heads of Eday. It is only the smallest kind of sheep that thrives in Westray, and the same observation holds in regard to cows. The larger cows do not take well with the bare pastures of Westray. In a few years, they degenerate into little more than the common breed of the place. This is no doubt owing, in a great measure, to the backward state of agriculture ; the want of green crops, or the re- quisite pasture for their feeding. In Papay, where the pastures are better, the larger breed of cattle and horses do pretty well. The haddock taken here is of the largest size, and very black on the back parts. Turbot is seldom got in our seas. The dog- fish is eagerly sought after, both for oil and family use. It is often got in great plenty towards the end of July, and during August and September, following the shoals of herrings which in these months frequent our shores. But among all the marine tribes, the most serviceable for food to the common people, and for light, from 122 ORKNEY. the oil tbey produce, is the fry of the coal-fish, which is taken here in immense quantities by the people, standing upon the rocks by the water's edge, with nets m • ^ 1795, • • • 142 1800, • • • 69$ 1805, » • • • 83B •1810, • • • J« 1815, • ■ • • 125H OaU. Malt. Qn. Biuh. *» 4A 1820, . m • . 134« 144 ORKNEY. Bear. Oatmeal* Yeaw. Q«. Bolb. Oats. Malt. Qrt. Bush. 160 144 1820, 197 . . 4710 2219 Taking the population of Lady Parish, as a thirty-fifth part of that of Orkney, we have the following results of grain and malt carried coastwise from this parish m the years specified. Bear. Oatmeal. BolU. 9 41H 2? 27i It is supposed that about two-thirds of the parish are in arable land and good natural pasture, and the other third waste and co- vered with heath. For at least thirty or forty years past, there has been an incli- nation in every farmer who had the opportunity, to reclaim land from the waste. Before that period, it was considered as imprac- ticable; but the example of a few individuals who had the forti- tude to depart from established custom, showed that the innova- tion not only was safe, but might even be attempted with advan- tage. In all probability, after a few years, there will be no waste ground in the parish ; and in the course of time, every acre may be brought into a state of garden cultivation. There are two modes of reclaiming the waste, — Firsts about or after Martinmas, when the ground is socked with rain, it is plough- ed and exposed to the frosts of winter, and the heat of the suc- ceeding summer. In spring of the next year, ware, dung, or other manure is laid on ; the ground is broken and made smooth with the harrow and roller; and in the last place, cross-ploughed and sown with oats. In the second plan, or lazy bed, the ground, after being spread with horse or cow dung, is planted with potatoes. The lazy bed now mentioned is perhaps the most efiectual way of bringing waste ground to a state of cultivation ; for in the season succeeding the crop of potatoes, oats or bear may be sown with or without manure, as suits the convenience of the farmer. I shall now describe the rural policy of the parish ; and the de- scription will, in general, apply to the whole island of Sanday, or 4 LADY. 145 more properly speaking, to the portion of Orkney termed the North Isles. One very lar^e farm, the people are divided into three classes ; firsts house-servants dwelling with the farmer, and having a monied fee; second^ boll-men; thirds cottagers or cottars. Both the second and third classes are scattered through the farm, in situations most convenient for the farmer. In winter and spring, the boll-man has a monthly allowance of grain and oatmeal, both for wages and food. He is a daily servant till the end of May, when he works in the kelp at a stipulated price per ton, the profit depending on his own industry. Both cottagers and boil-men shear in harvest, and are paid by a portion of l(ind termed a harvest fee. Through the whole parish, each cottager and boll-man can maintain, summer and winter, a milking cow and a horse ; and there are instances of se- veral keeping four cows and two horses. The one- stilted plough was in general use, in my recollection: and, though a fertile subject of ridicule, was the ancient plough of Rome, Egypt, and even England. Though it did the work with sufficient accuracy, still it was an inconvenient instrument, as it required four horses and a driver. The rise of fees, and the horse- tax in the Revolutionary war with France, rendered economy an object of imperious necessity with every farmer ; and, therefore, the improved mode of ploughing with two horses, without a driver, was introduced in an early period of the war, and soon became ge- neral. Sea-ware or weed, from its abundance, and the ease with which it can be carried to the land, is used as manure, in preference to . compost dung hills. No manure acts more speedily on the soil, or gives a cleaner and more abundant crop. It has been said, that compost dung-hills would give bear of a superior quality, — but if the quantity was not also greater, we would gain no compensation for the additional expense of time and labour. Our crops of bear are as clean as those in any county of Scotland. The wild mustard prevails in our oats, for it seems to be a hardy weed, which has hitherto set the skill of the farmer at defiance, and abounds in every county of Scotland and England, and in every province of France. Careful cleaning of the seed, and extending the drill husbandry to bear and oats, might probably extirpate this and other ni xicus weeds. The drill husbandry in potatoes and turnips, prevails in every soil ailapted to these useful vegetables. The manure generally used for both, is horse or cow dung; but in light sandy soils, rot* ORKNEY. K 14G OUKNEY. ten ware lias been found an excellent manure for turnip. Since the general use of turnip, our black-cattle bave improved in qua- lity ; and farmers have also discovered, that it is better to have an under than an over stock, formerly the great error in this country. The sea-ware was usually carried to the land in baskets, (term- ed creels) on the backs of horses, to the great injury of the health of this noble animal. These creels, pressing on the ribs of the horse, created internal and incurable disorders. It was liable also to objection in point of economy, as a great number of small horses was required ; but the general use of carts has nearly abo- lished the practice. Until very lately the longest period for which even large farms were let, was nineteen years; but the greater number of farmers in our pa- rish are, at this moment, tenants at will. While this narrow policy prevails, there can be no lasting substantial improvement. For what individual, removed a single step from insanity, will risk his ciipital on improvements from which he has no certainty of pro6t ? It is pleasing, however, to reflect that one heritor has lately granted several leases of nineteen years ; and there is every reason to hope, that the practice will become general. What is termed steelbow once existed ; but the practice is fast wearing out. It may be thus described : A certain value in horses, ploughs, carts, harrows, and other farming utensils is delivered to the tenant, who must, at the end of his lease, leave on the farm the same value. The dwelling-houses, cottages, and parks, are also valued by men mutually chosen ; — the tenant is paid for all ameliorations, and is charged for all deteriorations. The term of entry is Martinmas, and the whole crop, (fodder, seed, and ser- vant's bolls excepted,) is the property of the outgoing tenant. The incoming tenant is bound, not only to thrash the whole crop, with the exceptions already stated, to the outgoing tenant, but also to dry his oats, and convert them into meal. This practice, founded on wisdom and justice, is beneficial to both parties. Were it abolished, the incoming tenant could not lay down the crop for want of fodder, nor could the outgoing tenant convert his crop iifto meal, without barn, kiln, and other conveniences in the possession of the incoming tenant. It has been supposed that steelbow is pernicious, by inducing men of no capital to take farms. In an early period, steelbow might have been equal, or nearly equal to the value of stocking required for the farm. But money has been so much depreciat- LADY. 147 ed, that the value of house and farming utensils required in steel- bow, is so mere a trifle in comparison of the value of the whole stocking actually necessary, that it can afford no temptation to any farmer to compete. The practice, therefore, does neither good nor harm. On the mode of farming I have only further to add, that it is the practice of our farmers to begin sowing as early as possible on sandy soils. Accordingly, oat-seed commences about the 1st of February, old style, that is the 12th of February, new style. Oats are therefore sown from the 1st of February to the middle or end of March, — as our farmers are of opinion that it cannot be sown too early, especially in dry and sandy soils. In such soils, they gene- rally sow in furrow, or, in other words, sow first, and plough down the seed, to protect it from sand blowing. The gross rent of Lady parish is as follows : Rent in bear, 1338 meils, at 6s. 8d. per meil, L.446 Do. in oatmeal, 28 bolls, at 168. per boll, 22 8 Do. in kelp, 130 tons, at L.4 per ton, . 520 Do. paid in cash, . . 1214 12 L.2203 Harvest generally begins in the first or second week of Sep- tember, and ends about the middle of October, when the crop is carried to the barn-yard. We do not put the sheaves in stooks, as in the south country, but in miniature stacks, termed here skrews. When the sheaves are large, a threave is generally put in each skrew ; but if they are of a moderate size, a threave and a half. Our farmers are of opinion that this mode is preferable to stooking, by protecting the grain from rain, and exposing it to the wind, so that it is thoroughly dried, before it is conveyed to the corn-yard. The number of carts in Lady parish is 1 18. It is a remarkable fact, that, at the date of the old Statistical Account of Sanday, the whole island contained only 36 carts ; there are now, therefore, 82 more carts in Lady parish than were, at that period, in all the three parishes which composed our island. The number of ploughs is 83. For each of these, three horses may be allowed, two to till, and one to harrow, — making a total of 249, — an amount rather under, than above the truth. V. — Parochial Economy. This parish, as already mentioned, contains a church termed Lady Kirk. Some years ago, it was rebuilt, and is now large, and 148 ORKNEY. in every respect well adapted for the accommodation of a nume- rous congregation. Poor. — The parish fuods for the poor proceed from the follow- ing sources : 1«/, L.5, a yearly donation, from Mr Traill of Hob- bister ; 2(//y, Marriage money, 2s. 6d. for each marriage, of which lOd. goes to the clerk and officer, and Is. 8d. to the poor; Sd/y, Is. 2d. for the use of the mortcloth in burying ; Athly and lastly, the collections on Sabbath. On an average of three years, the total amount does not exceed L.9, 17s. yearly. From this deduct fees to the clerk and officer, and there remains for distribution, L.7, 8s. The precentor, or reader, as he is generally termed, receives and has received, from time immemorial, nine meils of bear on the bear pundlar, four settings oatmeal, and twelve merks of butter. Education. — There is in Sellibister, one of the districts of this parish, a school under the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge; salary, L. 15 Sterling; reading, writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping are taught. There is also a parochial school common to all the three parishes of Sanday, with a commodious house, and a salary of L. 46, 10s. The school-house is large, well-aired, and well-lighted. Besides reading, writing, arith- metic, and book-keeping, the elements of mathematics, land- measuring, and Latin, are taught. The situation has hitherto been occupied by able and welUqualified teachers. Light-house. — A light-house was erected on the Start, in the year 1802, and lighted in 1806. It is 100 feet in height, and re- volves once in two minutes. Since its erection, very few vessels have been either wrecked or stranded on our coast. Formerly, three or four vessels were yearly wrecked. Our coast is so low, that mariners are entangled, before aware of the danger. But the same circumstance which ,is fatal to the vessel, proves, in general, the safety of the crew, July 1841. UNITED PARISHES OF BIRSAY AND HARRAY. PRESBYTERY OF CAIRSTON, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. THE REV. THOMAS BLYTH, MINISTER. Parish of Birsay. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, Boundaries^ Sfc. — The modern name of this parish is Birsay, a corruption of the ancient one, which, according to Tor- feeus the historian, was somewhat different. Birsay, as united with the parish of Harray, was anciently known by the name of the Province of Bergisherad, which, according to Icelandic his- torians, means a hunting territory,-^jB2r^'« or Birsay signifying hunting, and Harady now Harray^ a territory. If these deriva- tions be just, it is probable that these parishes of old composed a district principally, if not solely, destined to the 'amusements of hunting ; for before Kirkwall was a place of any great note, the Princes, perhaps, and certainly the Nobles and Bishops, had their chief residence in Birsay. The western extremity of the united parishes is a flat, fertile, and rather narrow track of land, which opens gradually towards the east, till it swells at length to an immense amphitheatre, bounded by the hills of Sandwick, Orphir, and Kendal. Several beautiful lakes, of different sizes, are dispersed throughout this district, and some pretty large rivu- lets intersect it in various directions ; the former of these con- tain plenty of swans, ducks, and other water-fowl ; and both of them abound in those kinds of fish that generally frequent fresh water. The greatest length of the parish, from south-west to north- east, is about 8 miles ; its greatest breadth about 5 miles ; and it is computed to contain about 38 square miles. The form of the parish is irregular. It is bounded, on the west and north sides by the sea, and part of the parish of Evie ; and on the south and east, by the parishes of Sandwick and Harray. 150 ORKNEY. Topographical Appearances and Soil. — This parish presents great inequalities of soil, as well as of surface. The coast, which, in general, is bold and rocky, extends about eight miles, and, in some places, rises with a gradual ascent from the sea, about a mile eastward. The soil is very various. The lauds forming what is called the barony of Birsay, are considered by far the richest and most fertile in the parish, or perhaps in Orkney ; the soil, in general, is a mixture of clay and sand, and yields most luxuriant crops of oats and barley, ^^ without intermission.^ As to the quality of the ground in other parts of the parish, it is, in general, a kind of deep black loam, which also yields an abun- dant return of oats and barley; it is well adapted to turnips and potatoes. Hydrography, — There are six lakes in the parish. The most of them are about a mile in breadth, and upwards of four miles in circumference. The streams or rivulets that run through the pa- rish are inconsiderable, though they impel the machinery of four meal-mills. There is no harbour for vessels on the coasU The only harbours we have, are for small boats. The two principal ones are called Skibbagoe and Cdstragoe. Mineralogy. — The minerals of the parish consist of limestone, and a sort of claystone, which is in great request in the parish, and is generally used for pavement and for covering farm and other houses. There is, also, great abundance of other kinds of building stones ; freestone excepted. Marble and alabaster are said to have been discovered in the parish. II. — Civil History. From the want of well authenticated information, little can be said of the ancient state of Birsay. Indeed, there are no traces of its history prior to the period when it was in the possession of the Earis of Orkney ; and even subsequent to that time, little that can be depended upon, is known. There can be no doubt, however, of the fact, that the first seat of the Earis and Bishops of Orkney was in Birsay. The ancient inhabitants of the parish were Norwegians : and the names of many of the places are evidently of Norwegian extraction. JLand-owners, — The number of land-owners in the parish, resi- dent and non-resident, is 39 ; of whom 10 are non-resident The principal land-owner is the Earl of Zetland, who is also patron of the parish. Parochial Begisters^^^The parochial registers go so far back as BIRSAY AND HARRAY. 151 1631. They consist of five volumes, and are, upon the whole, in tolerably good condition. The register of baptisms and marriages commenced under the ministry of the Rev. James Aitken in 1645, and has been continued to the present time. Antiquities. — Among the antiquities connected with Birsay, may be noticed the remains of the sacerdotal palace. It stands on a beautiful green near the sea. It was the residence of the Earls and Bishops of Orkney. The time of its erection is not known with certainty. It is said, that additions have been made to it at different times, by the Sinclairs, commonly styled Princes and Counts of Orkney. Robert Stuart, natural brother to Queen Mary, as also his son, Patrick, made great additions ; but now, only the bare walls remain. It was built upon the model of Holyrood- house. Above the gate was the famous inscription, '* Dominus Robertus Stuartus, filius Jacobi quinti Rex Scotorum, hoc opus instruxit," and above the coat of arms, was the following motto, — ^^ Sic fuit, est, et erit." The stone, it is said, is still in the posses- sion of the Earl of Morton, to whom the lands were sold : by him they were sold to Sir Lawrence Dundas, whose grandson, now Earl of Zetland, possesses the greatest part of the parish. About half a mile to the westward of the palace is the borough of Birsay. It is a small portion of pretty high land, which the force of the ocean has broken off from the mainland, and formed into a separate island, to which there is access by land only at low water. From the remains of a wall yet to be seen on the land-side, and the marks of some huts there is reason to believe, that, as the name imports, the spot must have formed a rock fortification. At a later period, a chapel was erected here, of which only one win- dow and part of the wall remain. It is said to have been dedicat- ed to St Peter. Pict's Houses are also very frequent in the parish, some of which confer names on places. Single erect monumental stones are, alsoj not unfrequent in the parish. III. — Population. In the year 1755, according to Dr Webster's report, as quoted in the Old Statistical Account, the number of souls, in Birsay and Harray, was 2200 souls; in 1831, it was upwards of 2387, — the number belonging to Birsay being 1652, and to Harray, 735. Amount in 1841, 1634. The great body of the people are of industrious habits ; and al- though, from the pressure of the times, they have not had it in 452 ORKNEY. their power to enjoy those comforts which they did a few years ago, it would be injustice to conceal that they have borne their privations with more than ordinary patience ; and that, upon the whole, they are contented and happy with their situation and cir- cumstances. There are a considerable number of very intelligent individuals amongst them, and not a few who are distinguished both for religious principle and good moral practice. IV. — Industry. As there has never been any survey taken of this parish, the number of acres, arable and unarable, cannot be accurately stated. The extent of the parish, including hills and lochs, is computed to be about 38 square miles. Rejit of Land. — Farm rents are generally paid in money. They average about 8s. or 9s. an acre. The usual rent for grazing an ox or cow for the season is L.l, and for a ewe or full-grown sheep, about 7d. yearly. The valued rent is L.2701, l.^^s. 5d. Scots money. Improvements, — It is generally admitted, that there is no place in Orkney, where greater improvements in agriculture could be made than in Birsay, because the soil in general is good, and, above all, in the barony of Birsay, where there is great abundance of sea-weed at command for manure. If there was a new system of husbandry introduced, and if leases were granted for a reason- able time, instead of from year to year, as at present, the tenant might have some encouragement to cultivate the soil. The farms at present, with the exception of two or three, are very small, con- sisting of eight or nine acres each, which pay of yearly rent about L.8 or L.9 Sterlino:. Manufactures. — At no distant period, the manufacture of linen cloth was carried on, to a considerable extent, in this parish ; but now, there are few, if any, looms employed in this way. The chief employment of the females, now, is straw-plaiting; which branch of manufacture was introduced into the parish, in the year 1807, by Mr llobert Berwick, Kirkwall. It still forms the chief employment of the females, though their wages are much lower than they were, when it was first introduced. The number of hands employed in this department may average about 450. Se- veral of the manufacturers have agencies in Stromness and Kirk- wall. The quantity manufactured is considerable ; but the annual value of it cannot be ascertained. It is sent, when plaited, to Manchester or Liverpool. The earnings of straw-plaiters may amount, at present, to about Is. 6d. or 2s. weekly. 4 BIllSAY AND UARKAY. 153 Fisheries. — The great bulk of the people Id this parish are fishermen. A considerable number of the young men go yearly to Davis's Straits, and also to Hudson's Bay. There are upwards of twenty fishing-boats belonging to the parish ; and, when wea- ther permits, they are in general very successful. The kinds of fish of which they get the greatest numbers, are cod and dog-fish. Lobsters in their season are, also, got in great numbers, and her- rings. There are five herring-boats belonging to the parish, which generally go, at the fishing season, to Stronsay or Wick ; and in general they are very successful. Birsay would form an excellent herring-fishing station, provided there was a proper har- bour. • V. — Parochial Economy. There are few or no made roads in the parish. Ecclesiastical State, — The church, which is very commodious, though far from being a comfortable one, was erected in 1064, and was enlarged in the year 1760. It is at present in a state of bad repair. Neither is it well situated for the convenience of the great bulk of the population. The seats of the church are di- vided among the heritors according to their valuations. The manse was built in the year 1802, and is in tolerably good repair. The glebe consists of between 18 to 20 acres of arable and unarable ground, and its yearly rent may be stated at L.9, or thereby. The stipend amounts to L.210, exclusive of L.8, 6s. 8d. for furnishing communion elements. The average number of persons that at- tend church, when the weather is good, may be from 400 to 500. The number of male h^ads of families on communion roll, 131. There is only one Dissenting chapel in the parish, — belonging to the Antiburghers or Original Seceders. The stipend of the mi- nister does not exceed L.70 yearly, if so much. He depends for his living upon the seat rents, and the Sabbath days' collection made at the church doors. Education. — There are six schools in the parish, viz. the paro- chial, and five others, which are conducted by persons (two of them females) entirely on their own adventure. The parochial teacher's salary is L.26. He also holds the office of session-clerk and precentor, the fees of which amount to L.l, 15s. yearly. He has a tolerable dwellincf-house and school-room. He has also a garden, but not of the extent required by law ; neither is the defi- ciency supplied by an adequate allowance in money. All the other teachers are supported by school-fees alone, with the exception of 154 ORKNEY. the Assembly's teacher, who enjoys a salary of L.25, besides a free house, school-house, garden, and fuel, together with a piece of ground for a cow. The total number of children attending the above-mentioned schools varies from 180 to 200. Library, — A library, which consists of about 170 volumes, chiefly on religious and moral subjects, was formed in 1841. The readers are pretty numerous. There are few or none under fifteen years of age in this parish, who cannot read or write. But endowments for the teachers are much required. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons who receive aid from the parish funds, is about 40, and the ave- rage allowance to each is Is. quarterly. In some cases, however, more or less is given, as the members of kirk-session think fit. The fund is made up of collections at the church door, mortcloth dues, and dues for proclamation of banns, — amounting in all to about L.7 or L.8 in the year. Inns. — There are no less than six public-houses in the parish. Fairs. — There are three annual fairs in the parish for the sale of cattle and horses. FueL — Peats are in great abundance in this parish, and of the very best quality, and all that they cost the inhabitants, is the dig- ging, drying, and driving home. Parish of Harray. Extent J §T. — The greatest length of the parish is about 6 miles ': its greatest breadth about 4 miles; and it is computed to con- tain about 22 square miles. The form is irregular. It is bound- ed on the west and south-west, by part of the parish of Sandwick ; on the cast, by Stenness and a small part of Firth ; and on the north and north-east by the parish of Kendall and Firth. Topographical Appearances^ Sfc. — In general, Harray is flat and rather swampy, and intersected by a great number of burns, which, from want of bridges, interrupt the progress of the traveller. The soil varies very much, — being, in some places, tolerably fertile, and in others, very unproductive. Nevertheless, the crops in general are good. Hydrography. — There are two lakes in the parish, one of which is of considerable size, and contains an immense number of most excellent trout. It is frequented by great numbers of wild ducks, and other aquatic birds. BIRSAY AND HARRAY. 155 11. — Civil History. Land'owners. — The land-owners of this parish are very nume- rous. There are about 100 resident and non-resident. Among the number of the non-resident, is the Earl of Zetland, who is patron of the parish. Parochial Registers. — The earliest records of the kirk-session of this parish go so far back as the year 1796. The earliest re- gister of baptisms is dated in the year 1784, and has been continu- ed to the present time. III. — Population. The amount of the population in 1831, as before stated, 735 1841, . 770 IV. — Industry. The extent of the parish, including hills and lochs, is comput- ed to be about twenty-two square miles. The valued rent, ac- cording to the valuation taken in the year 1826 and 1827, is L. 346, 5s. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — The present church of Harray was built in 1836. It is a neat, plain building, and seated for 450 per- sons. It cost L.215 or thereby. Its situation is fully as con- venient for the parishioners as any that could have been select- ed. The scats are divided among the heritors, according to their valuations. There are no pews as yet set apart for the poor; but in the meantime they are accommodated by their friends and neighbours. There is no manse in the parish, the minister's place of resi- dence being at Birsay. The glebe is about 18 acres in extent. Its present rent is about L. 9. There is only one Dissenting chapel in the parish, — belonging to the Independents. The stipend of the minister must be very small, if it depends entirely upon the seat rents and Sabbath days' collection. The number usually attending the Established Church, when the weather is good, is not less than 350. The number of male heads of families on the communion roll, is 1 12. Education. — There are two schools in the parish, viz. the So* ciety School, and another, which is conducted by a person entirely at his own adventure. The total number of children attending these schools may average about 130. There are none in the parish under fifteen years of age, who cannot read or write. 156 ORKNEY. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons who receive aid from the parochial funds is 12, and the average allow- ance to each is 2s. 6d. per quarter. In some cases, however, more or less is given, as the kirk-session may think 6t. The fund is made up of collections at the church door, mort-cloth dues, and marriage dues, — amounting in all to about L. 5 yearly. Fairs, — There are three fairs held annually in this parish, at which only cattle and horses are sold. July 1841. UNITED PARISHES OF STRONSAY AND EDAY. PR£SBYT£RY OF NOKTU ISLES, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. THE REV. JOHN SIMPSON, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Situation^ Extenty <$c. — Stronsay is situated in the south- eastern parts of the North Isles of Orkney, having the German Ocean on its east side ; the Stronsay Frith, by which it is sepa- rated from Shapinshay, on its west side ; and Sanday Sound, se- parating it from the Island of Sanday, on the north side. Its ex- treme length is 7 British miles, and its extreme breadth 5^. But, as it is of an irregular shape, being greatly indented with bays, it contains, including its adjacent holms, only 14 square miles, or 8960 imperial acres. Name. — Dr Barry, in his History of Orkney, gives the follow- ing account of the etymology of Stronsay. " From an inspection of the map, it appears to be not only curiously indented, but al- most cut into three distinct islands, which were formerly so many separate parishes, and this intersection has probably given rise to the name conferred on it by the ancients of the Isle of Strands or Stronsay." More probably, the name is derived from the word stroniy which signifies a current. And this epithet is not inappli- cable, as Stronsay is swept on all sides by peculiarly rapid tides. * Drawn up by the Rer. David Riutoul, Missionary Minister in Eday. STRONSAY AND EDAY. l5f Topography. — Stronsay has eight principal headlands and promon- tories. These are the following: Towards the north, Linksness and Huipness ; towards the east, Griceness, Odness, and Burrowhead ; and towards the south, Lambhead, Torness, and Rousholmhead. The principal bays are, Mill Bay, on the east side ; Holland's Bay, on the south side ; and Evigan Bay, on the west side. All the headlands are low, except Burrowhead and Rousholmhead, which consist of bold and elevated rocks. The three bays terminate in a sandy beach. There are two excellent harbours, each having two entrances, namely, Linga Sound, on the west side, protected by the small island of Lingholm ; and Papa Sound, on the north- east side, protected by the small island of Papa Stronsay. Stronsay is of moderate elevation. There is, however, a ridge, running almost continuous from north to south, considerably higher than the rest. There are several small islands connected with Stronsay. These are Papa Stronsay and Lingholm, already mentioned, as also the two holms of Huip, near the shore, on the north side, and the Holm of Auskerry, about three miles to the south. The three last holms contain only pasture grounds, and are uninhabited. Lingholm has one family dwelling on it, and a small portion of it is under cultivation. Papa Stronsay, by far the most valuable of these small islands, is about one mile in length, and one-half mile in breadth. It contains several families, and is very pleasant and fertile. Eday lies about the middle of the North Isles of Orkney, to* wards the north-west from Stronsay, and separated from it by the frith called Eday Sound, about four miles broad. It is about seven and a-half miles in length and three in breadth, having an area, including Pharey and the holms, of about eleven square miles. The name of this island has been derived, by some writers, from the eddies produced by the rapid tides that wash its shores. Others, however, have derived it from the word heath, and in proof of this, they refer to records some centuries back, in which Eday is written Etha. If this latter derivation be correct, it may be observed, that the name is strikingly descriptive of the cha- racter of the island, as heath covers the greater proportion of its surface. The principal headlands in Eday are, Veness, towards the south-east ; Warness, towards the south-west ; Fersness, towards 158 ORKNEY. the west ; anJ ReJliead, a high promontory of red granite, to- wards the north. There are several bays about Eday, in which vessels cau anchor occasionally ; and there arc two excellent har- bour^ viz. that of Fersness, on the west, and Calf Sound, on the norths each of which has two entrances. Edav« though like Stronsay, of moderate elevation, yet it has « rtd^e considerably higher than Stronsay, running (with the exc^^tion of a short interruption towards the middle), from north to south. There are six small islands connected whh Eday. These are, the Island of Pharey, with its holms, which protect the harbour of Fersness, on the west, and contains sixty-five inhabitants ; the small red holm, between this island and the Redhead ; the Calf of Eday, which protects the harbour of Calf Sound ; and the two green holms off the south-west of Eday. All these, with the exception of Pharey, are pasture holms, and uninhabited. There are several fresh-water lakes in each of these parishes, particularly one in Stronsay, nearly a circle, and somewhat less than a mile in diameter. Mineralogy. — The soil, in general, rests upon a bed of grey slate, dipping towards the west at an angle of about thirty degrees with the horizon. There is some sandstone about the north-west shore of Stronsay. And in various parts of Eday, particularly to- wards the north-western part of the island, this stone abounds. The stone from this quarry has been much used for building in Kirkwall ; and it may be observed, that some of it was sent a few years ago for this purpose to London. In these parishes, the soil which predominates, is that of clay, sand, gravel, loam, and moss, the last particularly in the parish of Eday. In Stronsay, marl has been found, which has been used as manure. II. — Civil History. Land-owners, — The principal proprietors of these parishes are, Mr Balfour of Trenaby ; Mr Urquhart of Elsness ; Mr Hcddle of Melsetter; Mr M'Kenzie of Groundwater; Mr Stewart of Brugh ; and Mr Laing of Papdale, brother and representative of the late Malcolm Laing, Esq. Advocate, the author of the His- tory of Scotland. It may be noticed, that a large part of that work is understood to have been written, while the author was re- siding in the mansion-house of Carrick, in Eday. Carrick was erected into a burgh of barony during the reign of Charles the First. And it may be remarked, that the House of Carrick was 3 STR0N8AY AND EDAY. 159 ihe residence of Mr Fea of Clestran, who, about a*century ago, dexterously captured the pirate Gow, who had come with Im ves- sel to Calf Sound, and was thus the means of arresting him in his wicked career, and giving him over to merited punishment. The late Sir Walter Scott, as is generally believed, has taken this incident as the groundwork of his novel, entitled the Pirate. Antiquities. — There are several monuments of antiquity in these parishes. Towards the north end of Eday, there is a standing- stone in the midst of a lonely heath. It is about 17 feet in height; and although a remarkable object, tradition says nothing as to its origin. There are various remains of ancient places of worship, and likewise places for interment, in these islands. Of the latter there is one deserving of more particular notice, at Housebay, in the south end of Stronsay. In this burying-ground, a number of bodies have been laid along side of each other, and separated from the rest by stones placed on edge at the foot and head, and on each side. It does not appear that wooden coffins had been used ; but, by way of substitute, a rude stone box had been formed for the head of the corpse, composed of stones set on edge, and one laid over them as a lid covering the face. The rest of the body, it seems, had been covered only with the bare earths There are various Picts' houses of considerable size in the southern parts of Stronsay. One of these is of greater magnitude than the rest, situated on the neck of land connecting Lambhead with Stronsay. It contains several apartments, which, by their smallness and rude construction, show that the inhabitants must have made little progress in the arts of civilized life. Below this ruin, towards the west, there are the remains of an ancient pier, formed, as is supposed by some, for the protection of vessels. It is now in such a state of dilapidation, that it is impos« sible to say when it was made. Its appearance is that of a mound of stones, extending to about 90 feet in breadth, and running into the sea in a westerly direction about 800 feet, and then turning southward in a direction towards the extreme point of Lambhead about the same length, — leaving, however, at the extremity, a suf- ficiently capacious entrance for vessels. And although, at this part, there is no breakwater, it may have been protected in another way, as a strong current runs continually past the head and across the entrance, so that the waves would be broken in passing it. The lower division of the pier (if such it was) has suffered most from the violence of the waves, as it is now covered over at high 160 ORKNEY. • tide, while tb^ greater part of the upper division still appears above water. It may be observed, that this aocient pier has been scarcely, if at all, mentioned by former writers. And tradition says nothing as to which of the ancient proprietors of these islands it is to be referred to. III.-^ Population. There are no records of an early date, from which to give any account of the ancient population of these parishes. In 1781, they contained 1.494; and in 1831, 1827 souls. This increase is to be ascribed to the more extended cultivation of ground for- merly lying in a state of nature, and also to the improvements in the fishing of lobsters, cod, and herrings. The people in these parishes enjoy a competent share of the comforts of life. Besides meal and potatoes, most of them have some butcher- meat during the year. But their principal animal food is Gsh, such as cod, especially herrings in their season, as well as cooths and sillocks during two- thirds of the year. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — As there is no proper survey of these parishes, it is impossible to specify the relative proportions of ground in dif- ferent conditions. As to Stronsay, however, it is supposed that about one-third is arable, one-third green pasture attached to the various farms, and one-third heath, — most of which is undivided <;ommon. And as to Eday, about 1000 acres are arable, 720 green pasture, and the remainder is heath, but not undivided common. The kinds of grain commonly raised are bear or bigg, and grey or black oats, the latter having awns as well as the bear. Pota- toes also are everywhere cultivated. Various farmers have raised white oats and pease, as well as turnips and artificial grasses. And Mr Laing of Papdale, in addition to these, has raised bar- ley with much success. From time immemorial, the ordinary mode of cultivation in Orkney has been to sow bear and grey oats, alternately in the same field. And the ground is enabled to hold out with this severe rotation, by the great profusion of sea-weed which is everywhere found, and assists in manuring for the bear, — the ground seldom receiving any manure for the oats. A great proportion of the horses, cattle, and sheep, are of the small Orkney breed. But many excellent horses and cattle have been introduced from Angus-shire, and other southern counties; 8TR0NSAY AND EDAY. 161 and Mr Laing of Papdale has shown, on a considerable scale, that Cheviot and Merino sheep, or a mixture of them, thrive very well. The crops of grey oats and bigg, in favourable seasons, have a considerable appearance on the ground ; and, considering the mode of culture, are fully as good (particularly the bigg)2as can be ex- pected. It may be observed, however, that here it is not easy to specify the returns from a particular field, as the farmers are not in the practice of computing the produce by the acre. When the ground is in good condition, the crop of white oats and barley has an admirable appearance; and, when the filling season is favourable, approaches to the excellency of the same crops in the southern parts of Scotland. The soil and climate are extremely well adapted for the culture of turnips, potatoes, and artificial grasses, such as clover and rye-grass ; and very fine crops, parti- cularly of the two first, have been raised in this quarter. Of the. great farms, renting from L. 100 to L. 200 per annum, the leases are generally of nineteen years duration. Of farms of more moderate extent, the leases are in some cases shorter. And most of the smallest farms were let from year to year, until about two years ago, when the proprietor of Eday let these for the same period of nineteen years as the rest of his farms. It may be ob- served, as a peculiarity of these islands, that the farms are let for a gross rent, and not by the acre. Most of the farms have a con- siderable proportion of pasture ground attached to the arable. Several of the dwelling-houses on the farms are rather unsuit- able ; but not a few of them, particularly on the largest farms, are comfortable dwellings, consisting of more stories than one. The same distinction applies to the offices on the farms, the smaller ones being rather mean, while the largest farms have offices spa- cious and substantial. They are, in general, erected by the pro- prietors ; and for the most part are in a state of progressive im- provement. Three of the farmers in these parishes have thrash- ing-machines turned by horses. Most of the ground is unenclos- ed ; but on several of the largest farms, some substantial stone dikes have, within the last few years, been erected. The greatest part of Eday being covered with moss, presents a great obstacle to agricultural improvement, though it is to be allow- ed that this is of the greatest benefit to the inhabitants for fuel, and contributes a considerable share of the same important commodity to the inhabitants of several of the adjacent islands, ORKNEY. L • 162 ORKNEY. and some cargoes have been sent to the Frith of Forth within the last two years. Almost the whole of Stronsay, with the excep- tion of about a square mile covered with moss, in the south-western partof the island, might, without much difficulty, be brought under cultivation. Some parts are fertile and other parts are poor, but it is all free of stones and wet, while there are no places so steep as to prevent the plough "passing along. The desiderata' are skill, industry, and capital, along with the division of that part which is now common. It must be observed, however, that, of late years, considerable progress has been made in extending cultivation over waste ground in these parishes; and one proprietor, Mr Laing of Papdale, stands prominently forward in this species of improve- ment, having, in the course of two years, made the plough to pass over more than 100 acres of barren moor. It is a curious fact» that ground which has been yielding grey oats and bigg alternately, for a series of years, refuses to yield white oats, and this, too, even though the ground is of excellent quality. The cause of this may be, the quantity of shell sand, which mixes more or less with the sea-weed, that has been used as manure for centuries, destroying the adhesion of the soil. But, whether this be the real cause or not, it is certain that white oats grow in contiguous ground that has been newly cultivated. The ease with which sea- weed can be procured as manure, by presenting a temptation to the fanner to have always a grain crop upon his ground, may be supposed to have much impeded the in- troduction of the improved mode of agriculture. Another obsta- cle which may be mentioned, is the manufacture of kelp from sea- weed, which, for nearly a century, has occupied a great propor- tion of the labouring pari of the community, during the summer season, and thereby withdrawn the attention of all classes from agriculture. The ardour for kelp making is, however, much abat- ed, in consequence of the little remuneration which it brings, the price having fallen from L.15, or even L.20 per ton, to L.5. Fisheries. — The fishing, which is of most importance to the great body of the inhabilants of these parishes, is the sillock or cooth. Besides furnishing the people with a considerable part of their food during three-fourths of the year, the taking of this 6sh, which is both with the bait and fly, affords to old and young a source of interesting amusement, more especially during the pleasant even- ings in summer. The lobster-fishing has been carried on hero. STRONSAY AND EDAY. 163 for about half a century. This fish is caught during the months of April, May, and June, a httle without the low water-mark, by means of small boats with two n^en in each, employing for this purpose small nets with flesh or fish used as bait. The lobsters, when caught, are transferred to chests floating in some sheltered place, from which they are taken generally every week, and con- veyed to London by welled smacks. The cod-fishing for export commenced in the year 1828, and is prosecuted in the neighbour- ing seas with small sloops, for the most part decked. The herring- fishing was begun here by Mr David Drever, farmer at Huip, in the year 1814. And soon after, Mr Laing of Papdale, in connection with a company in London, afforded such encouragement, that the harbour of Papa Sound, admirably fitted for this purpose, and in the vicinity of the finest fishing-ground, soon became the great resort of boats from the North Isles, and indeed from all Orkney. Mr Laing, the proprietor of the adjacent ground, has built a consider- able village for the accommodation of fishermen who have come from distant places to reside here, and likewise a commodious pier for the curing and loading of the fish. The herring-fishing com- mences towards the end'of July, and continues for six or eight weeks, during which time the number of boats employed has been sometimes about 400, and most of these are manned by four, and some by five men. There are also anchored in Papa Sound from 25 to 35 vessels, (sloops and brigs,) mostly from the south-west of Scotland, attending on the fishing. And in addition to coopers and others, there are several hundreds of women employed in cleaning and salting the fish. Numbers of persons also resort to the station to traflic with the curers and fishers, while visitors come to witness the busy scene, so that the fishing-season is a memora- ble part of the year in the parish of Stronsay. It may be added, that it is difficult to specify the average quantity caught by one boat, but it varies from the smallest number of crans i;o about 200. A common number is from 35 to 70. It may be added, that shoals of small whales occasionally run aground on these islands, or when seen ofi* the coast are hunted ashore by the people with boats. One of these shoals, fifty in number, came ashore at Rousholmn, in November 1834, which yielded oil to the amount of about L.IOO. And in the beginning of the present year, another shoal, 287 in number, came ashore on the west side of Eday, which yielded a return of L.398. These 164 ORKNEY. fishes, however, are only rare visitors, and their return cannot be calculated on. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised yearly in Stronsay, including the holnas connected therewith : 4214 bollsof bear of 6 bushels, at Ids. 6d. per bush., L.2844 9 570 do. of white oats of do., at 128. per bushel, 342 5232 do. of black oats of do., at .8s. 6d. per do., 2223 12 53 do. of pease of do., at L.l, . 53 10069— total number of bolls of grain, . L. 5463 1 3992 barrels of potatoes, at 2b. 3d. per barrel, 81000 cabbages, at 2s. 6d. per 100 59| acres of turnips, at L.4, lOs. per acre, 9600 stones of hay, at 6d. per stone, L.449 2 101 5 267 15 245 Cattle and horses. 110 large horses, at L.3 per bead, for grass & fodder, li.3d0 189 small do. at L. 1,5s per bead, for do. do. 236 5 137 oxen, at L. 1, 10. per bead, for do. do. 205 10 397 cows, at L.l, 10s. per head, for do. do. .595 10 527 stirkf , at 15s. per head for do. do. 395 5 1063 2 1360 — total number of cattle and horses, 1762 10 310 swine for keeping, at 5s. per head, . . 77 10 1555 sheep, native brMsd, for keeping, at Is. 6d. . 116 12 6 3200 rabbits yearly, — rvalue for skins and carcase, 6d. 80 Kelp. 2154 tons, at L.5 per ton, . IO77 \q q Lobsters. 2900 lobsters, at 3d. each, . 36 5 Herrings and cod. 2800 barrels of herring, at lOs. per barrel, L.1400 4 tons of cod fish, at L.12, 12s. 50 8 — 1450 8 Total value, L.1 1,126 18 G STBONSAT AND GDAT. E^Boq 3isiu3li ^.£§8$ a SiS S *§i 1 ^"^ j g |§ -^-"-"■''■--rssw m «^ ,|- ||Sg3S 3 8^2 3SSSS a ss= iSSiS s jji 'J mi L.1050 8 451 7 6 578 10 229 14 6 1G2 57 112 12 6 460 10 118 10 237 15 75 211 5 97 10 81 10 80 10 44 12 37 7 1 m. 139 16 166 ORKNEY. The average gross amount of raw produce raised yearly in Eday, including Pharey and the Holms. 1616 bolls of bear, of 6 bushels to a boll, at 13s. per boll, 785 bolls of white oats, do. to do. at lis. 6d. per boll, '1445boll8of black oats, do. to do. at 8s. per do. 10 bolls of beans, do. to da. at L.I, 2042 barrels of potatoes, at 2s. 3d. per barrel, 36 acres of turnips, at L 4, lOs. per acre, 2280 stones of hay, at 6d. per stone, 90100 cabbages, at L. 1 , 5s. per 1000, 307 cows for grass and fodder, at L. I, 10s. per head, 79 oxen for de. do. at L.l, lOs. per head, 317stirksfor do. do. at 158. per do. 25 horses, (large size,) for grass and fodder, at L.3 per head, 169 horses, (small size,) for do. do. at L.l, 5s. per do. 300 Cheviot sheep, grass for the year, at 6s. 6d. 180 Highland sheep, grass for the year, at 36. 6d. per head. 920 native sheep, do. do. at Is. 9d. per do. 223 Swine, at 4s. each, 1630 rabbits skin and carcase, at 5{d each, 466 fathoms of peats sold yearly from the island, at 6s. per fathom. 139 16 1560 barrels of herrings, at . L.780 5400 lobsters, at 3d. each, . 67 10 8 tons of dried cod fish, at L.12 per ton, . 96 « 943 10 161 tons of kelp, at 1j»5 per ton, . . 805 0* L.5983 17 7 V. — Parochial Economy, Ecclesiastical State. — There are two parish churches, both in central parts in these islands. The one in Stronsay was built in 1821, the other in Eday, in 1816. Besides these, there are two places of worship connected with the United Secession. That in Stronsay was built in 1800, and that in Eday, in 1829. The pa- rish minister in Stronsay, until about a year and a half ago, was wont to cross the Sound (in breadth four miles) every fourth Sab- bath, to preach in Eday. But in the spring of 1834, the Com- mittee of the General Assembly for managing the Royal Bounty appointed the present missionary minister to officiate in Eday ; and since that time, the parish of Eday has enjoyed the same be- nefit of public worship, every Sabbath, as Stronsay, which has been also benefited by this appointment, as the minister of Stron- say can devote all his attention to that parish. Since the appoint- ment of a minister to Eday, a manse has been erected for his residence, partly by collections and subscriptions in Orkney and in the south ; and partly by the assistance of the present incumbent in Stronsay. Education. — In these parishes, there are three principal schools. Two in Stronsay, and one in Eday. Of those in Stronsay, one is the parochial school, and the other is supported by the Society for STRONSAY AND EDAY, 167 Propagating Christian Knowledge. This school was established by the Society in the year 1782, And it may be worthy of being noticed, that since that time it has continued in the same family, being taught first by the father and afterwards by the present teacher, his son, who is also an elder in the parish church. The school in the parish of Eday is supported by the Committee of the General Assembly for Promoting of Education in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. It was established in the year 1827. Previous to this time, there was no regular school in the parish of Eday. Although the people in Eday were thus so long without any public school, it should be observed that the children were not altogether neglected. They were for the most part taught to read the Scriptures by their parents or some of the neighbours. The Assembly's school, however, has been of great benefit to the parish, as it has spread education among all the fa- milies ; taught the young to read with more accuracy than former- ly, as well as taught them branches to which they could not have access before. The parish schoolmaster in Stronsay receives a salary of L.2d, Ids. d|d.; add to which the fees of scholars, L.d; total, L.28^ 13s. 3|d. The teacher of the Society's school in Stronsay receives a salary of L. 15; add to which, the fees -of scholars, L. 1, lOs.; total, L. 16, 10s. The teacher of the General Assembly's school in Eday receives a salary of L.25; add to which, the fees of scholars, L. 5 ; total, L. 30. The average number of children attending these schools in Stron- say, during the summer, are 48; during the winter, 65. The ave- . rage number attending the Assembly's school in Eday, during summer, are 24 ; during winter, 36. The fees are from Is. 6d. to 3s. per quarter. Besides these schools, there are other casual schools, in more remote parts of the islands, taught by persons who earn their liveli- hood, partly from the fees of the children, and partly from follow- ing some other occupation. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid in these parishes, is about 27. They re- ceive from Is. to 15s. during the year. The only fund for relief of the poor is that which is procured by weekly collections in the parish churches on Sabbath, with the exception of a donation of L.2, 2s., per annum, from Mr Balfour of Trenaby for the poor of Stronsay. The collections amount to about L.8, 5s. Sterling, 68 ORKNEY. per annum. It may be observed, that, although there are many poor persons in these parishes, yet they are moro able to find sup- port for themselves here than in large towns* If they procure from their relatives or neighbours some meal and a few fish and potatoes, these are sufficient to satisfy their wants. And though very poor, they enjoy a measure of health and contentment It may be remarked, that the people in these parishes are very chari- table in bestowing help, in the manner referred to, on their poorer neighbours. InnSi Alehouses^ S^, — There are seven alehouses or inns in these parishes, and the bad effects of these houses are the same here as in other parts of the country. Fuel. — The fuel in the parish of Eday consists wholly of peats, which are dug from the extensive moss that covers the greater part of the island. These peats are of the best sort, and when piled on the hearth make an excellent fire. The inhabitants of Eday, as has been noticed, have right to the free use of peats from the mosses, as a pendicle to their tenements. Several of the north isles of Orkney receive fuel from Eday. Boats containing parties of people to prepare their winter's supply, may be seen sailing from various quarters, in the beginning of summer, when the season for cutting the peats commences. They pay 6s. per fathom for them after they are cut and dried.* And the yearly rent accruing to the proprietor of Eday, for this commodity alone, is not less than Lf 139, 16s. per annum. The inhabitants of Stronsay were wont, in former times, to dig their peats from the moss of Rothesholmn, already referred to. This privilege, however, about fifty years ago, was denied them by the proprietor, and the question being brought before the Court of Session, it was decided in his favour. Mr Anderson, in his Account of these parishes in 1787, anticipated that this decision would " soon be found a great cause of diminish- ing the inhabitants." The numbers, however, have considerably increased since that time, showing that a scarcity of fuel is too feeble a barrier to check population. The tenants in Rothesholmn, and some other families, receive their peats, as formerly, from the moss. But most of the remaining families receive the little fuel they use from Eday, and the average expense to one family is about L. 1, 5s. yearly, to which may be added the expense of coal, as some of them use a considerable quantity. • The measure above-mentioned is of much greater dimensions, than that usually known by the fiithom. It contains 12 feet in length, C in breadth, and C in hei"ht. July 1841. PARISH OF ST ANDREWS.* PRESBYTERY OF KIRKWALL, SYNOD OF ORKNEY. THE REV, JAMES SMELLIE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The present designation of this parish is that by which it has, from time immemorial, been known ; and no other, nor more satisfactory account of its origin can be obtained, than that it is derived from Saint Andrew^ the tutelary saint of Scotland. Extent^ Sfc. — The parish of St Andrews is situated on the east coast of the mainland of Orkney. Its extreme length is about 6 miles, and its medial breadth 2. Its superficial extent has never been ascertained by actual measurement, but may be esti« mated at 13 square miles. It is bounded on the north, by Sha« pinshay firth ; on the east, by an arm of the sea called Stronsay firth ; on the south-east, by Deersound ; on the south, by the German ocean ; on the south-west, by an undivided common of some miles in extent, which lies between it and the parish of Holm ; on the west, by the parish of St Ola ; and on the north- west, by Inganess bay. It is separated from the parish of Deerness, with which it was formerly ecclesiastically united, by Deersound, and a narrow isthmus called Sandaysand. In consequence of its be- ing variously intersected by the sea, its figure cannot be well de- scribed; but the principal part lies south-east and north-west, while an inferior division projects from the northern end, in an easterly direction. Topographical Appearances, — The face of the parish, though generally flat, is diversified by gentle inequalities in the ground- But the highest point is not more than 350 feet above the level of the sea, with the steepest acclivity only nine degrees ; and the least elevated parts are sometimes covered by the rising tide. It is intersected from, east to west, by three ridges or inconsiderable rising grounds ; one at the south end, another at the north, and a third in the middle, almost equidistant from each of the others. The line of sea-coast, extending along the south, east, and north * Drawn up by thu Ruv. George Stnellic, Assistant and Successor in Lady parish, San day. 170 ORKNEY. sides, may be eighteen miles in length. At three places, viz. the isthmus connecting this parish with Deerness, a small creek of Deersound near the church, and a part of Inganess bay, it is san- dy, and at the southern and eastern boundaries, it is rocky and precipitous. At the former of these, the face of the rock is nearly 180 feet of perpendicular height; and at the latter 95, where it is not so remarkable for its elevation, as for its picturesque appear- ance ; some parts standing in detached columns, and presenting a dauntless front to the fury of the ocean. The rest of the sea coast, though occasionally varied by projecting cliffs, generally consists of a low beach, affording sea-weed for the manufacture of kelp. One of the chief natural curiosities of this place is a deep cavern, which in the neighbouring district is called the ffloup.* It is situated a few yards from the precipice on the east coast, is eighty feet deep, and fifty-sis by thirty wide ; and the water in its bottom commu- nicates with the open sea by a passage through which a boat may enter, at certain states of the tide and weather. Additional inte- rest is given to'this place by the circumstance, that Sir James Sin- clair, natural son of llobert Sinclair, Earl of Orkney, threw him- self into it, and perished. He was prompted to this horrid act, by fear of the vengeance of his sovereign James V., whose displeasure he had incurred, by representing the Islands of Sanday and Eday as insignificant liolms, and thus fraudulently attempting to obtain possession of them, as a reward for his good services in discomfit- inout L.2000 ; hides, about L.700, Rabbit skins, more than 2000 dozen, at 5s. 6d per dozen, Feathers, about . Kelp, supposed scarcely to exceed 500 tons, at L.4, 10s. Straw manufacture, including rent, cutting, plaiting, &c. Herrings, 34,000 barrels, at 10s. per barrel. Cod, fislied by about 40 sloops of 30 toni, 14 tons each, at L. 13 per ton, Lobsters caught by 432 men, in 216 boats. Whale £shing, about 25 ships, uking 20 men each, 500 men at L. 15, 7500 Hudson's Bay Company pay annually for the wages of men em- ployed in Hudo ocoo eoo • See L.26 25 34 4 4 26 25 i*3 3 26 46 14 4 28 46 10 26 25 27 ... 30 "6 26 •4BJ UI8(OOq3^ 1 :00000 0i^010l'*-^»0 2'l<»00^ oo^l 75 I •a HI 111 8 r o • •2 •OQ OQ «|BnpiAipui 3 1 u *Kia(l09di^ JO (U0)II98SIQ |0 S0I[IUIR4 3 2 OQ '0(l 8|«npiAipin S : IfSi : : : rgg .......§. CO • a5 ^ ^ ... . 00 to 00 • •'13 qsisa o% Suiduo| !-oq 'siuvj} ***** /M * X rX ...... ^ ... • ....C|0.OQ0*.«...^a;; i .f.fi-lf -ti-Mi ORKNEY, ADDITION TO THE ACCOUNT OF HOLME AND PAPLAY. BY THE REV. ANDREW SMITH, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. '^ The parish of Holm," says Mr Vedder in his Orcadian Sket- ches, '* is perhaps one of the most beautiful in the Orcadian archi- pelago. It slopes gently to the ^ sweet south/ and is protected from the influence of the northern blast by a range of heath-clad hills, sufficiently high for this purpose, without being high enough to retain their snowy coverings on the return of spring. A consi- derable number of limpid rivulets meander from the heights to the shore, giving an air of fertility and freshness to the scene, — while the shore itself is laved by one of the noblest friths that can be conceived — rushing to and from the German Ocean with tre- mendous velocity, and with a noise, should the wind blow in an ad- verse direction, ten thousand times louder than the fall of Lodore, so admirably described by Southey. Where, indeed, can there be a greater difference than between the surplus water of a puny mountain-lake falling from an elevation of some forty or 6fty feet, and the illimitable unfathomable Atlantic urging its restless course through a narrow strait, chafed and maddened at intervals by rock, islet, and headland ; while the fierce east wind sweeps o'er its agi- tated surface, making the white billows take even a vertical direc- tion, as if they would brave the very heavens." II. — Civil History. Eminent Persons. — Under this head, the family of Graeme, de- scendants of Bishop Grajme, who occupied the see of Orkney from 1615 to 1638, may be mentioned as havingbeen uniformly kind and indulgent landlords to the people of this parish. It is stated in the old Account, that they had resided at their family seat of Graemes- hall, for a hundred years, and cherished a spirit of industry among their tenantry ; that the ancient rents of the farms had never been raised ; and that, though no leases were given, many of the tenants living at the time that the Account was drawn up, held the same farms that had been occupied by their forefathers for several generations. Mr Patrick Graeme, who was sheriff-depute of the county about the ADDITION TO HOLME AND PAPLAV, 219 year 1770, particularly encouraged among his tenants the culture of flax, which was consequently more attended to in Holme at that time, than in any other part of Orkney. He furnished them with linseed gratis — had them instructed in all the particulars relating to the cultivation, manipulation, and manufacture of it into linen cloth. Their families were thus furnished with what is much wanting in the present day, profitable employment in the winter season and in other intervals of agricultural labour,-**the female domestics spinning it into yarn fit for weaving into cloth. It is also stated, that, for many years previous to the date of the old Account, (1795,) there had been annually exported of such cloth, woven and bleach- ed, in the parish, 20,000 yards, which always brought a good price at Newcastle and other English markets. By the profits hence derived, the tenantry of Holme became distinguished above their neighbours for industry and wealth. But, on the death of their benevolent landlord, who was suddenly cut off in the prime of life, their exertions in this branch of industry gradually relaxed, until their culture of flax and their linen manufacture were en- tirely given up. He was succeeded in the property by his bro- ther. Admiral Alexander Graeme, who distinguished himself in the action with the Dutch fleet off the Dogger Bank, where he lost his right arm in the cause of his country. Though he did not reside on his iestate, having no turn for rural affairs, yet his tenants always experienced from him the greatest kindness and liberality. Alexander Sutherland Graeme, Esq. having lately succeeded to the property, is, as before stated, the principal land -owner in the parish, — the estate of Graemeshall being ninetcen-twentieths of the whole. Parish Registers. — The register of births and marriages begins in 1654. The record of the kirk-session begins in 1673. It may be mentioned as evidence of the heterogeneous mixture of Episcopacy and Presbytery, which continued for several years in this synod, — that it is recorded of Mr George Tod, December 11th 1681, and of Mr James Graham, February 26th 1688, that they " were transplanted by the bishop and presbytery from their former charges to the kirk of Holm, as their presentation, institu- tion, and induction thereto bear." Mili. — There is but one* mill, driven by water, to which the tenants are astricted, paying the usual proportions of multure, — a twelfth part for oats, and a sixteenth for bear. There is no kiln 220 ADDITION TO THE ACCOUNT OF at this mill, nor, I believe, at any other mill in the county,-— but a kiln is an appendage to every farm-house and also to every manse. IIL — Population. It is stated in the old Account that, <^ although there are up- wards of 6fly farmers who pay from L. 6 to L. 12 Sterling of yearly rent, and who have brought up from five to ten children of both sexes, yet there are not four of them who have the assistance of a son at home of twenty years of age. From fifteen to that age, the youths, from a disposition to leave their native country, take to a sea-faring life, and most of them never return," and it is added, that <^ the females give material assistance in farm-work.** The case is much the same at present. It is to be observed, however, that this continual emigration of the young men proceeds not merely from a restless disposition which disinclines them to settle at home, but it is with them a case of necessity — there being no employment in the farm for them. Most of the youth have no pother means of living but engaging as hands on board of coasting- vessels and revenue-cutters, or vessels trading to the Bal- tic and foreign countries, and few of them ever return. The po- pulation must in this way be, at least, kept stationary. Every householder, both tenant and cottar, has a share of a fishing-boat, by which he supplies his family with fish of various kinds. The coal-fish, termed here, when young, sillocks, and when a year old, keuths, furnish both agreeable food and excel- lent oil, and are found quite at hand in the Sound, a little offfrom the shore, most part of the year ; and on going out of the Sound, a mile or two eastward of Rosencss, there is found abun- dance of haddocks, cod, ling, skate, flounders, halibut, &c. It is only with a view to domestic provision, however, that any engage in fishing. None are fishers by profession. They are a community of small farmers, with such a proportion of the ordi- nary handicrafts among them of shoemakers, tailors, smiths, car- penters, &c. as can find sufficient employment. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — From the period at which the old Account was drawn up (1795) to 1829, agriculture had been making slow advan- ces beyond a rude state. The plough with one stilt — the harrows with wooden teeth, had gradually given place to better implements. But the sowinor of oats and bear in uninterrupted succession, without any alternation of green crop, except a trifling extent of potatoes, continued still to be the general practice. A change of seed was 6 HOLME AND PAPLAY. 221 never thought of, — nay, the worst of the grain produced on the farm was selected as the most proper to be sown. The produce accordingly was just what might be expected from such husban- dry, — the average produce being three times the quantity of seed sown for oats, and five times the quantity for bear. The fields were everywhere overrun with weeds, both annual and perennial. But since 1828, two occurrences have taken place, and that almost simultaneously, which promise to effect in due time a ma- terial alteration for the better in the agricultural industry of this parish. In the above year, Mr Graeme's property was surveyed, cleared of run-rig, and laid out into a considerable number of farms of various sizes ; and whereas hitherto, the tenants had, with only one or two exceptions, been all tenants at will, they were now admitted to leases of fifteen years. For the first five years, they were to hold at nearly the old rent, and then a small rise was to take place, but with liberty then to quit ; another small rise at the end of the tenth year, with liberty then also to quit They were restricted from flaying the surface of the hill-ground, — a cus- tom which had long prevailed among them for making up their compost dunghills. They were bound to a strict observance of winter herding, and to have a certain proportion of their farms re- gularly under green crop and grass. A plan of the estate was made out, which shows that there are 2850 imperial acres divided into farm^, and 4767 acres of undivided common. The other occurrence alluded to, was the introduction of steam navigation, which will prove an effectual remedy for what has hi- therto been a principal obstacle to agricultural improvement in Ork- ney — distance from the best markets for the ready and profitable disposal of stock. Since 1836, a powerful steam vessel has plied weekly for eight months of the year betwixt Leith and Kirkwall. In consequence of this accommodation, the farmer in this quarter, who formerly depended on the casual visits of drovers from the south, for the sale of their cattle at an inferior price, can now ship them on board the steamer, on the morning she sails from Kirk- wall, and after a run of thirty-six hours, have them ready to be shown in the Edinburgh market. The average rent of land in the parish is 10s. per acre. The an- nual quantity of bear grown in the parish may be averaged at 785 bolls of 16 stones Dutch. Annual quantity of oats, 585 bolls same weight. 222 ADDITION TO THE ACCOUNT OF The number of acres in ^nrass is 829 ; the number sown with turnip, 65 ; the number planted with potatoes, 96. The total rent of (he parish may be estimated at L. 876. The price of raw bear, on an afenige of the last seien years, per quarter of 348 lb. imperial, is 16s. 7d. The price of oats on the same average, per quarter of 184 lb. imperial, is 7s. 6d. Each quarter of bear or of oats is eight bushels measure. Of the bear, about 170 bolls are payable in kind to the Crown. A quantity is disposed of to the distillers in Kirkwall, and a part of it in malt, to the brewers there. The remainder is reserved for the use of the parishioners for seed. There has never been much oatmeal sold out of the parish. The bear here mentioned is what is commonly called big, an inferior sort of barley, and the oats are of the small black or grey kind. These inferior grains have been hitherto preferred, the for- mer on account of its ripening earlier than barley, to avoid the hazard of a late harvest, and the black oat, on account of its not being so liable to be shaken as the white kind, by those boisterous winds which occasionally prevail here in autumn. But there is do reason to doubt that, were the land once brought into good heart by improved modes of farming — both barley and red oats, which are less liable to be shaken than the white, and at the same time are a stronger grain, might be successfully cultivated. The soil, in general throughout the parish, is of a kind that rea- dily admits of improvement, especially by lime, (which has never yet been applied to it) being, for the greater part, a light black loam, in some places mixed with sand, and in others having a mix« ture of clay. But, whatever be the variety of the surface, the bot- tom is uniformly of a porous nature, so that whatever quantity of rain may fall, it soon disappears, and of course there is no marshy ground, nor stagnant surface water to be seen throughoutthe parish. From two to three tons of turnip seed grown in the parish have, of late, been annually exported to Edinburgh and other places, for which the seedsmen have readily allowed the highest current prices, on account of its superior quality. This is a new and quite un- looked for article of profitable produce to the Orkney farmer. Rye-grass seed sown in Orkney is equally prized by seedsmen. The excellence of the turnip seed naturally arises from the peculiar suitableness of the soil and climate to the cultivation of this root, which, in several instances, has succeeded here, when it has failed in countries further south. Here it is not subject to HOLME AND PAPLAY. 2^3 the black-fly, nor any other destructive insect. It often grows to the size of 12 lb. or 14 lb. ; and more than thirty tons have beenpro- duced on an acre. Nor are the soil and climate less favourable to the production of the potato, which here has not yet been infested with the dis- ease called the curl, so frequently injurious to this root in the south ; and where the soil is in good heart, it has yielded from thirty to forty fold. The planting of this root is found to be the readiest way to bring waste and barren ground into tillage. No less peculiarly well qualiBed are the soil and climate for the production of the artificial grasses, red, white, and yellow clover. Rib and rye grass, with some other kinds have been cultivated most successfully for green food, while they have also yielded a plenti- ful quantity of hay. From land that will produce luxuriant crops of the above roots and grasses, there may also be expected, under a proper mode of management, corresponding crops of those kinds of grain which have been found best adapted to the soil and cli* mate. The observation may be extended to flax, which, as has been already stated, was for several years cultivated in this parish with great success, and the manufacture of which into cloth fur- nished useful employment to female industry, which, at the pre- sent time, is much wanted. The same observation may also be extended to hemp, to which the soil that produces flax may be presumed to be equally favourable. The raising of it might also supply employment to several additional hands, in preparing and {nanufacturing it into ropes, sails, and nets. About forty years ago, the common Orkney breed of cattle was the only kind generally reared in the parish. But of late years this breed had been considerably improved by the introduction of the West Highland or Dunrobin bull. And a more considerable improvement is now expected by means of crosses with the Tees- water or short-horned breed. A bull of this breed was introduced here, about two years and a*half ago. The calves of the first cross betwixt this bull and Orkney and Dunrobin cows advanced so quickly in size and con- dition, in the course of twelve months, that they were readily sold at nearly L. 6 per head ; a price which commonly was with diffi- culty obtained for the best Orkney and Dunrobin breed of four years old. The introduction of the Teeswater breed, either pure, or as crosses, has in various places tended much both to in- 224 ADDITION TO THE ACCOUNT OF crease the size of cattle, and also to quicken their fiittening for the butcher. Prices. — It is stated in the old Account, that, " during the pre- vious thirty years, provisions were tripled in price, but not improved in quality," and that in 1762, a good mart cow could be purchased for 15s. When a whole carcase was purchased, the beef was had at a penny per pound ; and in 1795, a mart cost L. 2, 10s. At the same date, farmers paid their men servants from L. ), 10& to L. 4 a year ; and female servants from lOs. to L. I. Day-labourers, from 6d. to 8d. without victuals ; tradesmen's wages from Is. to Is. 6d. Eggs were then three-halfpence a dozen ; a good fowl 6d. ; chickens dd. a pair ; beef and mutton from 2d. to 2^d. per lb. At present, the wages of a man-servant for farm-work is L. 8 a year ; of a woman servant L. d. The hire of a labourer in sum- mer is Is. per day without victuals, or 6d. with victuals. In winter, he is paid by the hour. Harvest hire for a man is from L. 1, 5s. to L. 1, IDs. ; for a woman, from J 4s. to 18s. Mowers receive Is. 6d. a day, and six meals. The same number of meals is expect- ed by farm-servants, during the seed time. Eggs are now 4d. a dozen ; fowls 8d. a piece ; chickens 6d. a pair ; beef and mutton from 4id. to 6d. per pound. Fisheries, — It has been already stated that every householder has a share of a boat, by which at intervals of leisure he may pro- cure for his family a supply of Gsh, which forms a material article in their diet. They are also all adventurers in the herring fish- ing, which occupies them, including the preparations for it, about two months. These two months could be spared from the care of their farms, under the old mode of farming, without much in- convenience ; but it is rather doubtful, how far their engaging in this fishing may be compatible with their following out, with due activity and exactness, the improvements connected with their leases, by preparing compost manure, keeping clean their green crops, and harvesting their hay, the more especially, as the for- mer part of the season is occupied chiefly in carting home their peats. But the fishing that might be prosecuted with the greatest and surest emolument, and for which the country has peculiar focili- tics, is the cod and ling fishery ; but which, both from want of capital and want of hands, has been hitherto neglected. For the encouragement of hands making fishing their occupation, there HOLME AND PAPLAT. 225 has been laid out here a site for a Bshing village, and due encour- agement held out to settlers. The situation is at the ferry side, close by the harbour of Holme Sound Bay, and is peculiarly conve- nient for prosecuting'the cod and ling fisheries. It is within a few miles of the German ocean on the one hand, and the Atlantic ocean on the other. All along the neighbouring coasts, and at no great dis- tance from the land, there are banks where cod are found in plenty. In proof of this, it may be mentioned that in the island of Waas, the small farmers on the shores of the Pentland Frith, have sometimes employed the time they could spare from their ordinary labour in fishing, and, with a few boats indifferently fitted out, have been known to catch from fifty to sixty thousand cod in one season. But had the attention of these men been solely directed to the occupation of fishing, and had they been provided with boats of a proper size and construction, they might no doubt have caught ten times that number in a season. A proof of what capital can effect on the fishing banks of Ork- ney, is the success of a wealthy English company who, for more than half a century, have employed, and still employ, about a dozen of welled smacks at an expense of L. 60 or L. 70 per month, to supply the London market with live cod and lobsters. V. — Parochial Economy, Holme Sound is a thoroughfare betwixt the eastern and western coasts of the kingdom, by which vessels can pass from the one to the other with greater dispatch, and with greater security than either by the Caledonian Canal when in its best state, or the Pent- land Frith. Holme has great advantages for navigation over the Pentland Frith and Caledonian Canal. In passing through Holme Sound, all that is necessary to be considered is the time of flood or ebb tide suitable to the course in view to be steered ; and when this is observ- ed, vessels, on entering the Sound are sure of falling in with a regu- lar current, moving during spring tides at the rate of nine miles an hour ; and should any mistake occur as to the proper time of tide, there is safe anchorage in several parts of the channel, in which to await the proper tide. The lights, too, erected for the direction of vessels entering either end of the Pentland Frith are equally serviceable for directing vessels to either end of Holme Sound ; a light-house, erected forty years ago on a skerry at the eastern opening of the Frith, is a plain guide to the eastern opening of Holme Sound, which is but twelve miles farther north, betwixt the 226 ADDITION TO THE ACCOUNT OP Head of Roseness and the opposite point of Burray, ichere there are neither rocks nor shoals. The light-house, too, recently erected on the north-west extremity of Dunnet Head, for prevent- ing vessels mistaking the bay of Dunnet for the Pentland Frith, formerly a cause of shipwreck, is of equal importance as a guide for vessels making for or departing from the western entrance of Holme Sound by Stromness and Hoymouth, which is but fourteen miles of a straight course farther north than the western entrance of the Frith. Here, too, the navigation is safe. During last war, large convoys of merchant vessels bound for the Baltic, after ren- dezvouzing in Long Hope of Waas, commonly preferred the.course eastward by Holme Sound to that by the frith, aud were occasionally seen passing along the Sound to the number sometimes of from for- ty to sixty sail. Skeldaquoy Point, stretching out to the length of a quarter of a mile from the shore, forms the west side of what is cal- led Holme Sound Bay, where vessels of 200 tons may conveniently anchor. It is from this part of the shore that the post and tra- vellers are ferried over to Burray. The ferry is about four miles and a-half broad, and with a good boat and crew is attended with no danger. There has been, for some time past, a daily post from Edinburgh, which, during the summer, generally reaches Kirkwall within the third day. Tlie mail is dispatched from Kirkwall by a foot-post to the ferry of Holme, where a boat with four men crosses over to Burray. He then proceeds across Burray to the small ferry of Water Sounds by which he crosses over in a boat with two men to the village of St Margaret's Hope, in South Ronaldsay, where there is a sub-post-office. From that, he proceeds through South Ronaldsay, a distance of about eight miles to Burwick, on the Pentland Frith, — from which the mail is conveyed in a boat with four men, across the Frith, a breadth of twelve miles, to Huna in Caithness ; from which a gig post takes it to Wick, a distance of eighteen or twenty miles. Ecclesiastical State. — This is one of the few parishes in Orkney in which there has always been but one church. According to tra- dition, it was dedicated to St Nicolas. It is situated in the east- most district of the parish, called Paplay. Of this name for the site of church and manse, there are instances in other Orkney pa- rishes. The Paplays are ^always the most fertile spots of a parish, and are supposed to have been so named from their being alloited for the residence of the papse or priests in the times of popery. The 9 V HOLME AND PAPLAT. 227 site of the church of Holme is far from being centrical. It is from four to five miles distant from the west end of the parish, where the population is equally dense as in the other quarters of it. It was re- built in 1818, and affords sufficient accommodation. It is kept in good repair. No seat rents have ever been exacted. The average number of communicants is from 100 to 1 10. A new manse and of- fices were built in 1804, all in the most substantial manner, and on the most convenient plan, and are kept in good repair. The glebe consists of about seven acres. The soil is good ; but the shores were the most valuable part of it, so long as there was a market for kelp, as they yielded annually about four tons of kelp, which sold at an average of L. 7 per ton ; but, for some years past, the expense of making it would exceed any price that could be obtained for it. Up to 1815, the stipend, in common with that of six other pa- rishes in the synod, was on a very anomalous footing. It consisted of certain portions of malt and grease butter, paid out of the cu- mulo revenues of the bishopric The allotment out of these re- venues for the stipend of Holme, consisted of 86 meils of malt weighed on the malt pundler, (the meil being equal to 12 stone Dutch) and six barrels of grease butter. The vicarages or small teinds drawn in kind also formed part of the stipend. The vi- carage teind butter was weighed in merks oh the Bismer.** But when the act of Parliament was passed for augmenting the small stipends, in all cases where the parochial teinds were inade- quate, it became necessary to place these stipends on the same foot- ing with others, and for this purpose, to institute in the respective parishes a process of valuation of teinds. The teinds of this pa- rish being found deficient for raising the stipend to L.156, 6s. 8d. by about L. 60, this sum is accordingly paid from the Exchequer, half-yearly, at Whitsunday and Michaelmas. The United Associate Seceders have a chapel on the north-east corner of the parish, where it borders on the parish of St Andrews. The Earl of Zetland is patron of the parish. A school in a more centrical situation than the parochial school is much required. * For a particular account of these ancient weighing instruments, the Pundlor and Bismer, sec Dr Barry*s History of the Orkney Islandsi Book ii. ch. v. p. t2ll. January 1842. PRINTED BV JOHN &TARK, OLD ASSEMBLY CLOSE, EDINBUBGH. INDEX. Academies, see Education Agriculture and rural economy, 6, 20, aO, 40, 59, 68, 76, 82, 84, 96, lOR, 143, 152, 160, 181, 190. 204, 213, 220, Aikcrness, 200 Antiquities, 18, 29, 53, 68, 80, 123, 134, 151,159,178,201,213 Augmund*s Howe, 136 Backaskail bay, 87 Baikie, Mr, of Tankerncss, 3 Balfour, John, Esq. of Trenaby, 1 1 Bea, loch of, 86 Bemory caves, 14 Birds. 17,73 Birsay and Harray, parishes of, 148— civil history of, 150— character of their inhabitants, 151 Birsay, library, 154 — ^palace of, 151 Black Craig, the, 27 Blakely's Well, 2 Bouny, 2, 18, 51, 74, 122, 177, 199, 21 1 Burness, loch of, 118 Cairston burn, 47 Cape Wrath, 13 Castragoe harbour, 150 Cathedral, St Magnus*, 3 Cava, island of, 15 Churches and Chapels, Established, see Ecclesiastical statistics — Dissenting, see Dissenters. Claistran hall, 19 Climate and meteorology, 42, 45, 72, 116, 133. 170, 197,207 Clumly, loch of, 46 Coligarth, the ncss of, 140 Communication, means of, 7, 23, 34, 76. 180, 226 Cross and Burness, parishes of, 85— «ivil history of^ 89— character of their inha- bitants, 95 — miscellaneous observations on, 102 Cross kirk chapel, 125 Deerness, qttoad aacra parish of, 189 Decrsound, 172 Dis<;cnters and Dissenting chapels, 8, 24, 36, 64, 69. 82, 84, 101, 130, 153, 188, 190, 194,203,216,227 Dungsby head, 13 Ecclesiastical statistics, 8, 24, 35, 41, 63, r)9, 76, 82, 84, 101, 112, 130, 153, 155, 166, 187, 190, 194, 203, 205, 216,226 Eday, island of, 86 — sound, 157 Education, sutistics of, 10, 24, 36, 41 , 64, 09, 77, 82, 84, 101, 113, 131, 148, lo3, 155, 166, 188, 190, 195, 203, 1205 ORKNEY. Elsveick harbour, 79 Gnhallow, island of, 83 — sound, 157 Evie and Rendall, parishes of, 196— cba* racter of their inhabitants, 203 Kvigan bay, 157 Fairs, 12, 66, 154, 156, 189, 216 Firth and SCienness, parish of, 67— -civil history of, 67 Fisheries, 2, 22, 31, 41, 69, 73, 82» 88» 100, 110, 129, 153, 162, 186, 190, 194» 205 214, 994 Fishes', 17, 74, 88, 121, 163, 176, 187 Fitty hill, 126 Flotta, island of, 16— parish of, 77 Franklin, Sir John, 28 Frebbay district, 120 Friendly society, the Kirkwall, 11 Gairsay island, 197 Gait-nip, the, 1 Gallow hill, 126 Geology and mineralogy, 2, 16, 46, 72, 119, 150, 158, 173, 191, 198,208 Gloup cavern, the, 170 Graeme, Mr, of Graeme's hall, 3 Graemsay, island of, 27 Gyran, hill of, 42 Haly Kirk, 54 Harray, parish of, 154 — civil history ofy 155 Heclabir rock, 87 Henzie Hunt, carse of, 141 Hole of Row, the, 42 Holland's bay, 157 Holm of Auskerry, the, 157 — Holm sound, 16 Holme and Paplay, parish of, 204 — ad- ditional acount of, 218 Honyman, Sir William, 14 Hoy and Graemsay, parishes of, 40 Hoy, hill of, 26— sound, 27 Houton head, 13— cave, 14 Husbandry, systems of, 6, 21, 31, 96, 108, 128, 144, 152, 160, 183, 213, 220 Ingamess, bay of, 1, 172 Inns and alehouses, and their effects, 12, 25. 38, 66, 79, 154, 168, 189, 195 Johnston's cave, 27 Kettletoft bay, 86 Kirk of Howe, the, 125 Kirkliston, lake of, 16 Kirkwall, parish of, 1— civil history of, 8 Lady, parish of, 133— civil history of, 134— character of its inhabitants, 143 —kirk, 147— lighthouse, 148 Laing, Malcolm, the historian, 3 Laing, Mr, of Papdale, 3 230 ORKNEY. Land, rent of, 6, 20, 30, 40, 60, 68, 82, 84, 89, 128, 147, 152, 181, 204, 221 Libraries and literature, 11, 88, 66, 131, 154 Lingafiold, hill of, 42 Lioga sound, 157 Lingholm island, 157 Lobster 6shing, 22, 162 Loch Skaill, 46 Longhope harbour, 71 Blanganese, Iband in Westray, 119 Manufiustures— kelp,23,82,e9,91. 111, 186— straw plait, 32, 62, 68» 75, 129, 152,215 Markets, see Fairs Melsetter mansion.house, 75 Meteorology, see Climate Midbay district, 120 Midland, hUl of, 17 Mill bay, 157 Mineralogy, see Geology Miscellaneous obserrations, 25, 39, 66, 78, 102, 132 Monk*s house, 29 Mulhead of Deemess, the, 172 Myrtis* knowes, 140 Natural history society, the Orkney, 38 Newark tower, 138 Noltland, castle of, 123 Nooss, bay of, 116 Noust, the boat*s, 53 Ola, Saint, I Old man of Hoy, the, 49 Orkney, county of, general observations on, 206— civil history, 212 Orkney library, the, 1 1 Orphir, parish of, 13— civil history of, 18 ^-character of its inhabitants, 19— mis- cellaneous observations on, 25 Ottcrswick, bay of, 85 Outo*-town district, 120 Palace, the Earrs, 4 Papa sound, 157 Papa Stronsay, island of, 157 Papa Westray, island of, 117 Parochial registers, 5, 18, 29,40, 53, 67, 75. 80, 84, 89, 123, 150, 155, 178, 190, 201, 219 Pcntland Skerries, the, 72 Peter kirk, 141 Picrowall, hay of, 116 Plantations and planting, 177, 211 Pollexfen, Dr, 52 Pomona, 26 Population returns, 5, 19, 29, 40, 58,68, 75, 78, 81, 84, 93, 127, 151, 155, 180, 190, 193, 202. 204, 213, 220 Prison, the Kirkwall and St Ola, 12 Produce, prices of, 7, 60, 84, 164, 182, 224 Quarries, 7,31, 129,214 Quoyncss buildine, 137 Rapness, bay of, 116 Rcndull, hall of, 201 Reptiles, 17 Rivers and waters, 1, 2, 16, 46, 85, 118 Ronaldsha, North, island of, 103 — civil history, 104— character of its inhabi- tants, 105 Ronaldshay, South, island of, 16 Ronaldshay, South, and Burray, parish oC191 Ross, Sir John, 28 Rousay and £agleshay, parish of, 83 Saintear, loch o^ 118 Sandwick, parish of, 41<— ciril history of, 53— character of its inhabitants, 50— miscellaneous observations on, 66 Sandwick library, the, 66 Salt-pans cave, 14 Saville mansion-house, 86 Scapa bay, 1 Scar mansion-house, 86 Shapinshay, parish o^ 79— civil history of, 80 SkaiU or Aith, loch of, 46 Skibbagoe harbour, 150 Shipping, 7, 23, 32, 129, 215 Sncdsetter house, 74 Snasgar castle, 53 Societies, 11,36,38 St Andrews, parish of, 1 69->ciril history, 177— character of iu inhabitants, 180 St Magdalen*s chapel, 141 Stennets, loch of, 46 Strange, Sir Robert, the engraver, 3 Straw- plait manu&ctures, 32, 62, 68, 75, 129, 152, 215 Stroma, island of, 72 Stromuess, parish of, 2&— >harbour, 35— town of, 34 — library of, 38 — natural history society, 38^miscellaneotts ob- setvations on, 39 Stronsay and Edday, parishes of, 156 Swana, loch of, 198 Swartmill, loch of, 1 18 Swona, ishmd of, 72 Tookquoy, bay of, 115— loch of, 1 18 Traill, Professor, in Edmburgh, 3 Vestrafiold, hill of, 42 Wages, rate of, 5, 30, 60, 76, 100, 182, 224 Walls and Flotta, parishes of, 70— ciril history of, 74 — miscellaneous observa- tions on, 78— island of, 16 Wart hill, 13 Westray, parish of, 114— Frith of, lie- civil history of, 122— library of, 131— — miscellaneous observations on, 132 Wideford, hill of, 1 WhitemiU point, 85 Woodwick, bay of, 197 Yeskcnaby, town of, 53 Yonbell, hiU of, 42 Zetland, the Earl of, 10 Zoology, 51, 73, 88, 104, 121, 175, 199, 210 PRIKTin BY JOHK STARK, OLD A&SmM.VLY C\A%«, V^IKBUEGH. SHETLAND CONTENTS BRESSAY, BURRA, AND QUARFF, PACK 7 DELTING, . . . . 5(j DUNROS8NESS, . . . .93 FBTLAR AND NORTH YELL, 23 LERWICK, . . . .1 NESTING, .... .53 NORTIIMAYING, . . .70 SANDSTING AND AITHSTING, . . 97 TINGWALL, WHITENESS, AND WRKSDALE, . 59 UNST, .... 36 WALLS, . . . . .19 YELL, MID AND SOI'TU, ... 82 ,»»- i PARISH OF LERWICK. . PRESBYTERY OF LERWICK, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. THE REV. THOMAS BARCLAY, MINISTER.^ I. — Topography and Natural History. Extent and Boundaries. — This parish extends, from north to south, about 6 miles along the sea coast, and is nowhere above a mile in breadth. On the east and north-east, it is bounded by the sea, which separates it from the island and parish of Brassa, and forms that excellent harbour commonly called Brassa Sound. The parish, and country around it, are rocky and mountainous. The soil, on the mountains, is generally peat or moss, and is deep to their very summit. The arable land lies in spots along the sea coast; the soil is light and sandy, but as fertile and productive as can well be supposed from the situation and climate. The high- est hill in the parish rises little more than 300 feet above the level of the sea. The air, though moist, is far from being unhealthy. Harbours. — The only harbour in this parish is that of Lerwick, or Bressay Sound, a capacious bay, in which vesseb, well found, may ride at all seasons in perfect safety ; and what renders this harbour particularly commodious, is, its having two entries, one from the south, and another from the north. On the outside of the north entry, lies a sunk rock, called the Unicorn. Geologym — The predominating rocks in this parish are sandstone and conglomerate, both of which belong to the old red sandstone of geologists. II. — Civil Histouy. Parochial Registers. — There are three volumes of parochial re- gisters in the possession of the session-clerk. The first begins in the year 1704, and ends in 1750. The births and marriages are both recorded in this book ; but, owing to the originally imper- fect binding of the volume, it is now almost in fragments, and the births for several vears at the commencement have been either not re- corded, or more probably the record has been lost The second volume * From notes furnished by H. Cheyne, Esq. of Tangwicki W. S« SHETLAND. A 2 SHETLAND. commences in the year 1751, and seems to have terminated in the year 1777; but the latter year has been torn away. It appears to have been kept in a very regular and accurate manner, and is in very good preservation. Births, marriages^ and deaths are all recorded. The third^volume commences in the year 1778, and is that still in use, being only about half exhausted. It contains a re- gister of births and marriages — the latter probably complete, but the former, from its being optional mth Dissenters to register, has probably been much neglected. The people of all sects are now, however, it is believed, alive to the importance of registration. This volume contains no register of deaths till the year 1817; and from the want of some imperative regulation for ascertaining and communicating the facts, they have necessarily been entered in a very irregular manner. The session-clerk, apart from his own observation, is almost entirely indebted to the sexton for his information respecting these. Land-owners. — The land-owners of the parish are. Sir Arthur Nicolson, Bart.; William Hay of LaxBrth ; James Greig of Sand- sound; Earl of Zetland; Charles Ogiivy of Seafield; Francis Heddle of Helerness, and others. Sir Arthur Nicolson is the prin- cipal land-owner. This enumeration does not embrace the town of Lerwick, which contains many considerable owners of house and park property, besides those above-mentioned. The valued rent of Zetland is L.28,275, 14s. 6^d. Scots ; but no apportionment of it upon the lands was ever made, — owing to which the Zetland landholders, until the late extension of the franchise, were excluded from qualifying as freeholders. All public assessments are levied, and divisions made, according to the number of merk lands in the parish. All arable lands were anciently, under the Norwe- gian law, rated as merks, — a merk containing eight ures. These merks are quite indefinite as to extent. It is, indeed, clear that the ancient denomination of merk land had not reference to super- ficial extent of surface, but was a denomination of value alone, in which was included the proportion of the surrounding commonty or scattold. Merks land are of different values, as sixpenny, ninepenny, twelvepenny — a twelvepenny merk having formerly at least been considered equal to two sixpenny merks; and in some old deeds, lands are described as 30 merks sixpenny, otherwise 15 merks twelvepenny land. All assessments have, however, for a very long period, been levied, and all privileges ap- portioned, according to merks, without relation to whether they were sixpenny or twelvepenny. The ancient rentals of Zetland LKRWICK. 3 contain about 14,000 merks land; and it will be noticed, that, however much the ancient enclosed land be increased by addition- al improvements, the number of merks ought to be and are station- ary. The valued rent, divided according to the merks land, would make a merk land in Zetland equal to L.2 Scots of valued rent. The parish contains 253 merks land. Lerwick is built on tho commonty or scattold of Sound. The real rent of the country pa- rish is believed to exceed L. 500. The real rent of the town is about L.d700. Mansion^Houses, — Excluding the town of Lerwick, the only house in the parish that can be properly termed a mansion-house is that of Gremista, the occasional residence of Sir Arthur Nicol- son. There are, however, several houses in the neighbourhood of Lerwick, the summer residences of gentlemen residing in the town, which have been built within these few years, and have greatly improved the appearance of the neighbourhood. Antiquities. — The only antiquities worth noticing are the re- mains of a Pictish burgh or castle, on a small island in a lake close to Lerwick. It is fast hastening to decay. There are, or at least were lately, the remains of several chapels at Gulberwick. in. — Population. The population of the towa of Lerwick, in 1837, was • 3068 of places immediately adjacent, . 52 of the country part of the parish, in 1831, 444 The number of illegitimate births within the last three years in this parish, was 5. IV. — Industry. The real rent of the parish is L. 4200. The only improvements that have been made within the last fifty years are in the neighbourhood of Lerwick. That town was originally built on the commonty of Sound, and was surrounded by deep moss. The increase of the inhabitants has gradually caused the cutting up and consumption of this moss for fuel, until the immediate neighbourhood has mostly come to consist of extremely bare, stony, or rather rocky ground. Within the last twenty years, a common, surrounding the town, of about 40 acres, has been en- closed and divided into 31 parks, which are now mostly cultivated and laid down to grass. They yield a rental of about L. 80, from which tho minister's stipend, falling on the town, and other ex-> penses, are in part defrayed. Several gentlemen have also, at much expense, brought under cultivation ground in the neigh« bourhood of the town. And the summer residences of Mr Hay, 4 SHETLAND. Mr Ogiivy, Mr Greig, and Mr L. Duncan, display, on a limited scale, such as the locality admits of, considerable taste and spirit of im- provement. Mr Ogilvy's residence at Sound is laid out with equal taste and convenience ; and the sheltered situation of Mr Duncan's is evinced by a small but flourishing little plantation before his house. Manufactures. — Properly speaking, there is now hardly any manu- facture carried on in the parish. The women in this, as in other pa- rishes, are a good deal employed in knitting stockings, mitts, and other articles of hosiery. There was formerly a straw-plait manufactory ; but, for several years, it has been dropped. There is an attempt at present making by Messrs Hay and Ogiivy, to establish a her- ring-net manufactory ; and there can be no doubt of the propriety ' of thus securing employment on the spot in the manufacture of an article, the weaving of which is so simple, and so easily ac« quired, and which is now much used in the district The popu- lation of Zetland are generally too much averse to turn their spare time to account They flsh during the season. They necessarily apply to their small labourings and harvests ; and they cut their peats at the proper seasons ; but when not so engaged, many of them are apt to be idle, or at least to employ themselves in a listless manner. It is said that the want of leases accounts for this; but those who know the district are aware that there are many who have no such excuse ; and that there are few who could not obtain leases, if they wished. Qiinrry. — In Lerwick, there is a freestone quarry wrought ; and several vessels, some of them of 200 and 300 tons burden^ have been built by Messrs Hay and Ogiivy. Fishings. — The fishing most constantly followed in Zetland is that of ling, which is carried on from the middle of May to the beginning or middle of August. It is, however, only followed by a very few boats from this parish. There are a number of small sloops that pursue the cod fishing, during summer ; but it is sub- ject to great vicissitude ; the fish appearing for a series of years to leave the banks, on which, for another series of years^ they are again found. The herring fishing has, of late years, been carried on with considerable spirit, in the manner practised on the Scotch coast, and in larger boats than were formerly used in Zetland. In 1834, the take in Zetland exceeded 50,000 barrels ; but since then, it has gradually declinodb In 1839, 174 boats, mostly belonging to this parish, delivered herrings in or near Lerwick^ LERWICK. O but the whole take from these was only 4872 barrels, and the lier- ring-fishing last year was a total failure. The losses sustained by both curers and fishermen were consequently very severe, arid have much damped the energies, and contracted the means of both. It may be doubted if the Zetland fishermen yet understand the habits of the herring, or the best way of looking out for them ; and it is matter of wonder, that greater exertions to procure some of the experienced fishermen from Scotland, to follow the herring fish- ing in Zetland, have not been made. Notwithstanding of the late failures, yet, as a large capital is invested in boats, nets, and materials, the fishing will, doubtless, be again attempted another year. Navigation. — The number of vessels belonging to Lerwick is 85. The amount of their tonnage, 3132.* V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — From an account now taken, the number of families belonging to the Established Church in the town it 458; in the landward district (in 1831) 80 families. And from an account now taken, the number of Dissenting or Seceding fa? milies, is 187. About 40 families in the town may be said to attend no place of worship, being generally the most wretched, and standing most in need of Christian instruction. The usual excuse for non-atten* dance, is want of proper clothing, &c The stipend amounts to L. 150, and L.8, 5s. 9d. is allowed for communion elements. The stipend is made up thus: From the bishopric rents of Orkney, L.27, 15s. 6d. ; from town of Lerwick, L. 16, 13s. 4d. ; from lands of landward district, L.23, Os. 8^d. ; from Exchequer under small stipend Act, L..90, IGs. 3d.; total, L. 158, 5s. 9id. There is neither manse nor glebe in the parish. The com- pensation paid by the heritors is L.50 per annum. Education. — There are four schools conducted by male and by female teachers in the parish ; and one additional for boys, and one for girls of the middle class of society, are required. Per- haps, a well conducted model-school, accessible to all teachers in Zetland, and the children of the parish, would be a very great ad- vantage. It is luckily now beginning to be perceived, that teacli- ing is a profession requiring previous training; and, in the schools * Lerwick being the seat of the Custom-house, all vessels belonging to Zetland arc registered there. 6 SHETLAND. in Zetland, though conducted by estimable, zealous and right- minded men, the mere attainment of reading and writing, combined with the almost mechanical reading of the Scriptures, form the staple of the education ; and but too little attention is paid to the moral and intellectual part of education. The Sunday schools, wherever established, have been productive of very great and pal- pable good effects. The yearly amount of the parochial teacher's salary is L. 34, 48. 8Jd ; his fees amount to about L.30 per annum. Savings Banks. — There is one of these banks established in the parish. But the succession of bad crops and fishings has almost entirely stopped the deposits, for some time. In 1838 the sums withdrawn amounted to L.45 ; in 1839 to L.16, 8s. ; and in 1840 to L.13, 9s. Poor and Poor*s Funds. — The number of persons receiving pa- rochial aid is 105. The average sum allotted to each is Is. 8d. per month. The average annual amount of contributions for their relief, is L. 116. This sum is taken from the receipts for the year commencing 1st December 1839, and ending 1st December 1840, and may be deemed a fair average; the collection not having much varied, for several years. Of the above amount there was derived from church collections, L. 74, Os. 2^d. ; allowed by heritors to make up deficiency, L.22 ; from two donations, L. 6f 5s.; mortcloth hire, L.2, 12s. 6d. ; collection at sermons by mi- nister of parish on St John's day, at request of masons of Morton Lodge, L.12, Is.; total, L.116, 18s. d^d. May 1841. UNITED PARISHES OF BRESSAY, BURRA, AND QUARFF.* PRESBYTERY OF LERWICK, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. THE REV. ZACH. M. HAMILTON, Minister of Bressay. THE REV. JAMES GARDNER, Minister of Quarff. I. — Topography and Natural History. Situation, Boundaries, §•(?. — These parishes comprehend six islands, with a part of the mainland of Shetland. One parish lies on the east of the mainland, consisting of the islands of Bressay and Noss, divided from each other by Noss Sound, and from Lerwick by Bressay Sound. Bressay is nearly six English miles in length; its breadth varying from two to three, or, at some points, rather more. Its aspect on the west is somewhat diversified by indentations of the coast, the height of its hills, the cultivated land sloping toward the sea, and by the houses, cottages, and hamlets interspersed from south to north. Tracks of hilly ground run through it in irregular direc- tions, between which that sort of variety occurs, which is formed by the intermixture of pasture and peat moss. Noss is two miles long, and a mile or more in breadth, having an acclivity from west to east. The greater part of it is pasture ground ; but in the lower part, tl^ere is enough of cultivation to form a comparatively large and good farm. Topographical Appearances. — The most prominent object in Bressa is the Ward or Beacon Hill near the south extremity, which rises 724 feet above the level of the sea, somewhat coni- cally shaped ; and, being covered with heath, stunted grass, and peat-moss, it has a very sombre aspect. St Andrew's or Ander Hill, on the east side of the island, is a hilly ridge, 400 feet or more in height. Some caverns occur along the coast, one of which, on the south part, is the most remarkable, and has never been thoroughly ex* * Drawn up by the Rev. George Marshall, minister of Flisky fonneWy minister of Bressay. 8 SHETLAND. plored, although a boat may penetrate into it for a considerable way. On this quarter of the island, there are various perfora- tions in the rocks forming natural arches, by means of a column from each projecting into the sea, below which boats pass in fa- vourable weather. One of these is known by the name of the Giant's Leg. Both in Bressay and Noss, the coast is rocky, sometimes very high ; while at some intervals, a small extent of sloping beach oc- curs, of a sandy but oftener a calcareous description. The principal headlands on the south, are the Ord, the Bard, and Hammer. The Ord is a reclining rock above 500 feet high, and inhabited by Eagles. The Bard and Hammer are bold promon- tories, which, with the whole coast to the south-east, and Hova^ the south headland of Noss opposite, are about 200 feet high* Noss is distinguished principally by its eastern headland, called the Noop, or by mariners, Hangcliff, the height of which is said to be about 60Q feet. Around, the coast of both islands, there are sonie holms or unin* habited islets, the most remarkable of which is the Holm of Noss, a perpendicular rock, 200 feet in height, separated from Noss by a very narrow channel, having a space on the top suflScient for the pasture of a dozen of sheep, for two or three months. The me- thod of communication between the island and this holm, by means of a cradle suspended on ropes, is detailed in the former Statis- tical Account. Quarff, a part of the mainland, forms the middle parish, lying six miles south-west from Bressa, and situated between the pa- rishes of Lerwick and Tingwall on the north, and that of Dun- rossness on the south. The, inhabited part is mostly a valley between high hills ; extending about two miles between the east and west sea, and about half a mile broad, but having uncultivated or pasture ground belonging to it, extending a mile on the north and south. The winding valley, cottages at convenient distances near the foot of the hill on both sides, having a meadow between them, and a pleasant bay on the east and west, — exhibit a pictu- resque and simple scenery. The Cliff and Coningsburgh hills terminate in a ridge on the south part of the valley, as do the hills of Tingwall and Lerwick on the north. The height of Scraefield, the highest point on the north, may be above 500 feet. West from Quarff is the parish of Burra, which comprehends BRESSAY. 9 the Isles of House and Burra, and the small Isles of Hevera and Papa. House (or the East Isle of Burra) lies about half a mile from Quarff; and Burra, or the West Isle, the same distance from House. In their appearance, there is nothing very remarkable ; but they are mostly two hill ridges, irregular in shape, the one about six, and the East Isle about five miles in length, and from half a mile to a mile in breadth. The south part of the Isle of House is a peninsula, a mile in length, the greatest part of it consisting of pasture ground. The coast of both is rocky, espe- cially on the south, and particularly that of Burra, on the west. At one point the two islands approach so near to each other, as to be joined by a bridge composed of some loose timbers resting on two rude piles of stones. * The Isle of Papa, a mile north from Burra, is a sifiall spot inhabited by two families. Hevera, two miles south from Burra, has the appearance of a high rock, having only one proper access by a romantic sort of creek, inter scopulos pendentes. It accommodates five families, whose houses are frightfully situated on the brink of the preci- pice. An islet is attached on the south to this, called Little He- vera. Noss Sound is not a quarter of a mile broad, about twenty feet deep, having a strong tide, and is often impassable with east- erly winds, f Bressay Sound is well known as a harbour. In the middle, op* posite Lerwick, it is hardly a mile broad, and perhaps fifteen fa- thoms deep, the tide falling in it about eight feet; narrowing very much to the north entrance; but its breadth and depth in- creasing towards Quarff, on the south, where it opens into the ocean. Cliff Sound, nearly half a mile broad, is, like Bressay, a difficult sound in stormy weather, owing to its situation between high grounds on both sides. It is said to be eight or ten fathoms deep. Stream Sound is the junction between the Cliff and Burra Sound, said to be six fathoms deep, running east and west be- tween the north point of House, and south of Trondra; its breadth, about a quarter of a mile, between these points ; its cur- rent as visible as that of a river. * since this account was written, some improvements have beeli here made. -|- rhe statements here given of the depth of these arms of the sea, are given from the Oi>inions of (isiiermen in the neighbourhood, and cannot, therefore, be warranted as correct. An accurate survey has since been made by Captain Thomas. 10 SHETLAND. The West) or Burra Sound, is somewhat broader and deeper, extending the length of Burra ; and, being narrowed by the ap- proach of the opposite points at the bridge, toward the south, it affords a space for more tranquil boat-navigation, than any other in the parish. Various springs in the different districts have a slight mineral iioge, perhaps from, the bog-iron that frequently occurs. Bressay has a dozen of small lochs, two or three of them only being half a mile in length or breadth, but some containing ex- cellent trout, seldom disturbed by the angler. Burra and Quarff have each two small lochs. Geology. — Bressay and Noss belong to the old red sandstone formation: Quarff to the clay-slate and mica-slate formations; the Isles of House, Burra, and Hevera are of primitive formation ; and Papa of epidotic syenite. Quarries of coarse slate, of a grey, heavy kind, have been for a long time wrought in Bressay, the layers being from four to ten feet deep, mostly imbedded between rocks of sandstone. Some inferior kinds of limestone are found in Quarff and in Burra. Zoology. — The headland of the Ord of Bressay affords a domi- cile to a few eagles. The Noop of Noss, in summer, exhibits a curious spectacle, being covered with birds of passage and others, which occupy the narrow shelving of the rock. Tlie noise of these creatures is occasionally like that of the most deafening waterfall. Whales are sometimes seen in the Sounds. One above forty feet long was lately brought ashore near the manse, said ?o be the species Balcena hoops. Although there are few. trees here in the present day, yet there roust have been a time when they did exist in it, as many of the ipsa corpora are found in the mosses here, as in other places of the country. It can hardly be said that any experiments in plant- ing made in this country have been made with such energy, that their failure should be held decisive. Several spots near the man- sion-house were, some years ago, planted with willows and ash. The plants of ash are not in the same state of progress as the willows. Some plane trees thrive tolerably. In the ground adjoining to the mansion-house, there are various plants of aspen, poplar, la- burnum, elm, and plane-tree thriving well. The climate does not appear to favour evergreens. Culinary vegetables thrive well; and gooseberry and curran BRES8AY. 11 bushes produce tolerably, but require the shelter of a wall. There have been often at the Mansion-house tolerable crops of strawber- ries. There is not, so far as I have heard, any instance of a hot- house in this country, except here ; and in it the vines produce an exuberant crop of large grapes. II. — Civil History. . In the year 1636, the Rev. William Umphray, who had been at that time fifty-five years minister of this charge, executed two deeds of mortification, by which he left eight merks of land to Burra and Quarff, and four to Bressay, for maintaining a reader, and other pious uses, together with the interest of L.20 Sterling to the one, and of L. 150 Scots to the other. The communion cups seem to have been his gift, as they bear his name, with the date 162a« An event of great importance ta the minister and people lately took place, in the erection of a Government church in Quarff. Before this erection, the charge of these parishes was one of the most difficult kind, the Bressa and Burra churches be- ing about twelve miles distant from each other ; and it be- hoved the minister to go in a very small boat to Quarff, then to walk two miles, and lastly, to embark with his Quarff parishioners for the kirk of Burra, situated at five miles distance. His Sab* bath days' journies thus occupied eight hours, before his return home. The arrangement of places so distant under one charge, rendered it impossible for one man to go through the duties of a minister in them, with any regularity or satisfaction. Its first minister, Mr James Gardner, was inducted September 1830. The district at present allotted to him consists of Quarff, with the adjacent islands in Burra parish ; and he has the duty of preaching in the Burra church, as circumstances may permit But as there are contiguous parts of Coningsburgh, Gulberwick, and Tingwall, for whose inhabitants it is vastly easier to attend at Quarff than at their own parish churches, the Presbytery have it in contemplation to annex, quoad sacra^ these contiguous places to the charge of Quarff. It is much to be wished, for the sake of order, and the comfort of all concerned, that the whole were con- stituted a separate parish. The ground required for the church and manse, was generously given by the late Charles Ogilvy, Esq. of Seafield, and the disposition executed by his son, John Ogilvy^ Esq. * Tb« BresMV bell deoUret, in Latin, that it was cast, in 172S, at Hamburgh, for tb« use of this kirk. 12 SHETLAND. Land-owners. — The land-owners are, in Bressa and Noss, Wil- liam Mouat, Esq. In Quarff, the Right Honourable Lord Dun- das ; John Ogilvy, Esq. ; Mr Andrew Irvine ; and Mr Thomas Henry. In Burra, John Scott, Esq. of Scalloway. In Hevera, Robert Bruce, Esq. of Symbister. For time immemorial, separate sessions have been held at the kirks of Bressay and Burra ; and it is probable that a volume or volumes of minutes and registers have been lost, at both places. The first extant are in the worst condition, and much mutilated ; the earliest date 1737. They are now better kept; and it is found expedient to have a separate book and register at Quarff. In Noss, a small burying-ground is used, lying round the frag- ments of what appears to have been a Popish chapel. There are three burying-grounds in Bressay. The most an- cient appears to have been at Gunista, on the north part of it. There is here a small fragment of a church, which seems to have had vaults below it, or, according to tradition, a prison attached to it. On the site of this church, a spacious tomb of hewn stone, and neat workmanship, was built by some former proprietor, the walls of which remain. The ruins of a church appear also at Culbinsgarth, on the north- east, where there is another burying-ground ; and from this place Mr Umphray's deeds of mortification are dated. How long be- fore this the manse and kirk had subsisted, does not appear; but they were both removed to the present site, on the west, in 1722; and since that time, the church has been renewed once, ai]|} the manse twice. Several traces of Pictish buildings occur, mostly in the form of subterranean cells ; and both in Bressay and Burra, are some of these objects called standing^stones. Of late years, some tumuli were discovered, containing square stones, within which were bones, exhibiting marks of combustion. Other conically shaped knolls, that have every appearance of being tumuli, have never yet been opened. The churches in Bressay and Burra are small and incommodious. The Government Church in Quarfi* is a commodious and beautiful building. III. — Population. In 1801, the population wai 1390 1811, 1411 1821, 1585 1831, 1699 BRKSSAY. 13 One family only of independent fortune resides in the parish, — and this in Bressay, only during summer. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — Measurement by acres is here unknown, and that by mark land, which has been used for time immemorial, is, and has been, for many years, ill deGned and arbitrary. Originally, a mark of land must have been a definite measure, and pro- bably a measure only of cultivated land. But as every small farm has a portion of pasture or uncultivated ground belonging to it, an industrious tenant does what he can to add to the cul- tivated space as much as be can spare from the pasture. In some places, a mark signifies a space equal to an acre, and in others only to half an acre. Certainly it would be far better, in order to prevent erroneous calculations and disappointments, that farms in this country were measured precisely by acres as in the south. In this and most parishes here, the cultivated land is often not a third, or a fourth, or not nearly so much of the waste land or undivided common. The rental land, or that which has been in cultivation from olden times, consists in Bressay and Noss, of 342 mnrks. Biirra, • 252 Hevera, 18 Quarif, . 93 HenL — The average rent of land in the three districts is L. I per mark, with public burdens. But perhaps the outsets, or small farms occasionally let from the common, may make the cultivated space amount to a third more than what has been stated. The rental land connected with any hamlet or township, as it is called, lies in run- rig among the tenants. The outsets lying by them- selves and unfettered by the system of run-rig, and being some- times enclosed, possess by these means greater facilities for im- provement than the other. Husbandry, — The mode of cropping, from time immemorial, has been by oats and bear alternately on the infield, with potatoes once in four or five years. The manure employed is a compost of moss earth, dung, and sea-weed ; the earth being taken from the common during summer, and mixed with the dung as it accu- mulates, and with the sea-weed as it casts up. The offals of her- ring are also considered an excellent manure. A good many years ago, the proprietor of Bressay brought a grieve from Berwickshire to manage the farm annexed to the 14 SHETLAND. maDsioD-house, who afterwards took the lease of a small farm and managed it by the same mode of agriculture to which he had been accustomed in the south ; it was found that it seldom failed to produce an average crop of grain, turnip, rye-grass, or clover, compared with any hill district in Scotland. One or two tenants possessing advantages above the rest, availed themselves of the example thus set. But as to the generality, their poverty, and the want of leases, enclosures and roads, together with the sys- tem of run-rig, effectually bar all attempts at improvement. Other obstacles, however, arise from their engagements in fishing, and from the circumstance that the young men of almost every fa- mily, in the months of February and March, run eagerly to Ler- wick to engage in the Greenland and Strait's fisheries, and, of late years, to the cod-fishing; so that, both in spring and harvest, a great part of agricultural labour devolves on the females. But even many of the men who remain at home, think nothing of de- serting their farms for a whole day, now and then, for the sake of any traffic with ships in the harbour. Of course, from these circumstances alone, much agricultural improvement is not to be expected. Two or three leases only exist here, the duration of which is from nineteen to twenty-five years. Many of the farm cottages have of late years been rebuilt on an improved plan, and emulation has been excited on this matter. It should be mentioned, that the best cultivated farms may produce 5 or 6 bolls of oats, and 8 bolls of bear to the pro- portion of an acre, or 200 ankers of potatoes. It is seldom that meal is sold ; but when this happens, it is sold by the lispupd, a foreign measure at present very variously defined. The average price of oatmeal in Bressay is 4s., and of bear meal 3s., reckoning to the lispund 36 lbs. of 16 ounces. Potatoes are sold at 8d. per anker. Rate (fJVageSy Sfc, — Labourers' wages from lOd. to Is. 6d. ; ma- sons, from Is. 4d. to 3s.; carpenters, 3s. ; journeymen, 2s. ; quar- rying and building dry stone dikes per fathom, 2s. 6d. ; wages of a housemaid per annum, L.2 ; of a farm female servant, L. 1. Sum- mer's grazing of a cow, from 7s. to lOs. ; of an ox, 15s to L.l ; winter's fodder, from 5s. to 7s. — Price of a full-grown wedder, 7s. ; of an ewe, 5s. The averac:e weiorht of a cow for slauorhter is about two cwt., of an ox about six years old, about three cwt The sheep are, in general, left to run at large on the common. BRESSAY. 15 The weight of one fleece may be from one to two or three pounds. Qiiarries, — Stone quarries for the purpose of building may be here found almost in any place. Slate and fliig is shipped from the quarries in Bressay, for the different parts of this country, and on some occasions is carried to the southern coasts. In these quarries, a dozen of men and boys are employed, at wages of lOd. or Is. a day. Fisheries, — The ling-fishing is called the haaf or far-fishing. Bressay sends to it thirteen or more boats, 18 or 20 feet in keel; Quarff, four ditto ; Burra, ten, of 15 feet keel. Of the largest of these, each boat carries fifty bughts or lines, each bught being fifty fathoms in length. The expense of outfit of one of these boats, may be from L.20 to L.26. In each, there are commonly six sharers ; but if a man is needed to complete the crew, he may be hired sometimes for L.1, 10s., or a sum between that and L.d. A haaf boat may be hired for the season for L.2, 8s. On this fishing, the Bressay and Quarff people have to proceed far to the eastward, sometimes till they lose sight of land. The Quarff people have to leave their homes during the week, and to lodge at Noss as a fishing station, where others also, from differ- ent parishes, are collected, and have a few shillings to pay for the use of the huts in which they are accommodated; those from Bressay set off from their own homes. Both of these, and also all who fish to the eastward, must be at open sea at least for one, some- times for two nights. The Burra people do not need to go farther out to sea than one mile, their lines being set in the evening, and drawn ontheir return in the morning. From their employers they receive at present 6s. 6d. for the cwt. of wet ling, and 4s. 6d. for the tusk and cod, which they bring from this fishing. The accounts I have received of the fishermen's profits differ somewhat A gentleman, whose knowledge ought to be accurate, stated to me from his books, that the average pro- fit of each man for the season was from L. 4 to L. 5. The ave- rage amount of the Bressay ling-fishing may be about seventy cwt. in a season to each boat. Of the Quarf fishing, fifty cwt. Of the Burra fishing, eighteen cwt. The cod-fishing to the west and south-west of this country em- ploys many hands, and begins about Whitsunday ; being carried on by small sloops of between fifteen and twenty tons. From the whole of this parish, six or more sloops of this kind are sent to it. 1G SHETLAND. and last year, there were about seventy of the pari;$hioners who en- gaged in it. Eight or ten men commonly are partners in a sloop ; but sometimes boys are hired to make up their complement, whose wages may be L. 2, and Is. 6d. per ton offish. These sloops may get in a season from four to ten tons. The herring-fishery commences at the conclusion of the former, in the month of August. The same persons mostly engage in this as the two former, and the boats used for the ling fishing are employed by them, along with some of a larger size, by others who have prepared them for the purpose. The ordinary kind of boats must be provided with nets, the expense of which is about L.22. Some, however, make their outlay only L. 6 or L. 7. They need only to go on this fishing, two or four miles from land. Last year, the Bressay boats alone got 1528crans, the average being seventy six to each boat The Quarff boats got 390 crans. The Burra men had not yet eng^ed in this fishing. The curing of herring in Bressay employs about thirty women and children in the season. The manufacture of kelp in Bressay employs twenty or thirty boys and girls, who receive 9s. or more in the month, and have to work at least three hours every tide, by day or night. An over- «eer is employed, who receives at the rate of L. 2 per ton for his own wages and payment of the workers. The manufacture of Shetland hosiery is carried on by the in- dustrious, although it has not so much encouragement as in the days of Provost Coulter. The manufacture of herring-nets now engages attention, and pro- mises to be a useful employment. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — The Bressay church is situated convenient- ly, and so is the Government church in Quarff. Not so the Bur- ra church. Situated near the south extremity of the West Isle, it caused intolerable hardships to the minister and half of the pa- rishioners ; and still gives needless travel to the Government minis* ter in Quarff. Bressay church was built in 1815 ; is in good repair ; accommodates 370 ; has no free sittings. The Government church in Quarff was finished in 1829; is a beautiful and commodious buiidintr built to contain 320; has 106 free sittings. Burra church was built about twenty-six years ago; accommodates 210; has no free sittings ; and is seldom in any tolerable state of repair. The manse at Bressay was rebuilt in 1819. The glebe was ex- changed twelve years ago, for one to which it was thought equal in BRESSAY. 17 value ; it is said to contain twelve marks of land, and, according to present rents here, would let for L. 12. The stipend is L.150, of which L.!!?, 17s. lOd. arise from the parish. There are two places called meeting-houses in Burra that may* perhaps, each contain 100; one of Independents, and the others Wesleyans. I am told that twenty or thirty only are in commu« nion with either. Many of them, when their hours of meeting differ ^ attend the parish church. Two or three individuals only at parti- cular times have appeared as Dissenters in Quarff or Bressay. The three parish churches in summer are well attended. Cer- tainly those of Bressay and Burra are not too large for the popula* tion. The situation of young persons here, all along, has been quite deplorable. Till lately, they had no opportunity of anything de* serving the name of education ; and even, though there had been anxiety shown to bring them to church, there was not, and there is not, room for the tenth part of them either in Bressay or Burra churches. The average number of communicants in Bressay is 290. When there was only one church for the west district, there might be there 150. But, since the erection of the Government church, arrangements not having been completed between Quarff and Burra, and the contiguous parts, the number of communicants cannot be accurately specified. Education. — There are three regular, and commonly four small private, schools in these parishes. The parish school is in Bressay. The salary is L. 25, Ids. ; amount of fees, L. 1, 6s. ; quarter payments for reading, lOd. ; writing, 28. ; arithmetic, 2s. 6d. ; a set of book-keeping, ds. At last examination, there were 25 scholars present The Assembly schoolmaster in Bressay has L. 20 of salary ; amount of fees at present L.9. A school is supported by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, in Burra. The salary L.15; amount of school-fees, L.I. Rate of quarter pay- ments, for reading, lOd.; writing. Is. 4d.; arithmetic, 2s. 6d. Number of scholars at present, 26. For more than twenty years, there have been two schools in Bressa, and one in Burra, taught by women, having each 1 5 or more scholars. That in Burra, and one of those in Bressay, are extreme- ly useful for the younger children. Sabbath schools are kept by the Assembly and Society teachers, and one in Quarff, by a catechist of the Edinburgh Society SHETLAXD. B 18 SHETLAND. for PromotiDg Religious Knowledge among the Poor. One ia Bressay is kept by an elder. Almost all who can get to school between eight and fifteen years of age^ are now beginning to read, and a greater proportion than before to write. Upwards of fifteen years of age there are at least twenty who, confessedly, cannot read. I believe that not more than twenty or thirty are capable of the smallest epistolary correspondence. The institution of the Assembly school has excited a desire for education in Bressay beyond what existed be- ibre, and the people appear sensible of the great advantage of having a teacher so well qualified as the present. The district of Quarff remains wholly destitute of a teacher, and there a school is loudly called for. Friendly Society. — In this parish, there is a branch of the Shet- land Fishermen's Fund, for decayed fishermen and their widows. The annual payment, 2s. and a little entry money at first In this parish, there are 46 contributors; 18 widows at present, who receive each 1 4s. ; six decayed members, who, altogether, re- ceive L. 1, 14s. 6d. The nett stock of the general fund is at present, L.2485, 16s. T^d. Its concerns are diligently superintended by William Mouat, Esq., the general treasurer. This excellent institution would have prospered much more, had it not been for some unfounded prejudices fostered among the peasantry. Poor. — Bressay. Average of yearly collections, . . L. 12 11 7 Rent of mortified land, . 4 4 Interest of mortified money, 13 6 On the poor's roll are 32 persons at present, who receive at an average each only 8s. yearly. Temporary supplies and funeral charges amount commonly to L. 2. Burra and Quarff. Average of yearly collections, . . L. 9 Rent of mortified land, . . .400 Interest on a bill and account, variable, at an average, 3 But it is sometimes necessary to draw small sums besides, from the money in account. Poor on the roll, 25, receiving altogether L.8, 6s. Occasional supplies, 1 9s. The mortified land in Burra ought to yield at least double what it does. But for nearly a hundred years, various causes have contributed to render this spot of ground of no avail for the pious and charitable purposes of the mortifier. It must be evident, that, if the distressed poor did not receive WALLS. 19 some supply from relatives and neighbours, they could not live on the miserable alms the session has to give them. In Bressay, they receive much kind and exemplary beneficence from the fa- mily of the heritor. Fuel. — The fuel in general use is peat, although coal may be obtained by trading vessels. Revised May 1 84 1 . PARISH OF WALLS. PRESBYTERY OF LERWICK, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. THE REV. JOHN ELDER, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Batmdariesy ^c. — This parish is situated on the west side of Shetland, and near the middle. It is bounded on the east, by the parish of Sandsting, and on all other sides by the sea. It consists of four districts, namely, Walls, Sandness, Papa-Stour, and Foula. Walls and Sandness make part of the mainland, which is the largest of the Shetland islands; a hill of considerable height forming a division betwixt them. Papa-Stour (Stour signifying great) is an island about two miles in length, and one in breadth, lying north from Sandness. It is separated from it by Papa Sound, which is a frith a mile broad ; through which, runs a rapid and dan* gerous tideway. Foula is about three miles long, and one mile and a-half broad, lying to the west of the other parts of the pa« rish, and distant from the nearest point of land, which is in Walls, about sixteen miles. There is another valuable island in the south part of the parish, belonging to Walls district, called Vaila; on which is the residence of the principal proprietor of the parish, John Scott, Esq. of Melby ; and inside of which, there is an ex- cellent harbour with two entrances, named Vaila Sound. The greater part of the coast is rocky, the rocks frequently rising to more than 100 feet in height. On the west side of Foula they are several hundred feet high, and at one point, 1200 ; and in summer, are covered with sea*fowl. The parish is about ten * Drawn up by the late incumbent, the Rev. Archibald Sinclair* 20 SHETLAND. miles long, from the south side of Vaila to the north side of Papa, and five broad, exclusive of Foula. Geology. — The chief rocks on the mainland of this parish are quartz-rock, gneiss, and porphyry, with red sandstone. In the isle of Papa-Stour porphyry, trap, and red sandstone prevail ; and Foula is composed of old red sandstone, with subordinate deposits of granite, gneiss, and mica slate.* , II. — Population. The population is 2315: of this number, 1104 belong to Walls ; 642 to Sandness ; 367 to Papa ; and 202 to Foula.— There are four propietors, each of whom has more than L. 50 of rent from land; besides several others who have less. III. — Industry. With two or three exceptions, the whole of the parishioners are employed in the same manner. They unite the two occupations of fishing and farming. In a favourable season, most of the fami- lies have as much meal and potatoes as they require for their own use; and some of them can even sell a considerable quantity. They have also milk and a little butter for family use, besides geese and eggs. Each family, in general, kills a pig yearly, and a few sheep or lambs. Small fish also for home use ^re obtained in great abundance, at particular times. Tea and tobacco are in general use. When the crops are good and the fishing successful, most of them live in a very comfortable manner. Some, however, live very poorly ; chiefly owing to their marrying before they have the means of stocking a farm, or to their settling on small patches of ground which are insufficient for their support. When the crops fail, many families are reduced to great want. None of the farms exceed six acres of arable ground, and in general they consist of no more than two or three. The rent, on an average, is about L. 1 per acre. Almost every farm has at- tached to it a greater or less quantity of meadow and pasture ground, without any additional rent; and all have the privilege of cutting peat for fuel in the hill ground, which is both good and abundant, except in Papa; and the right of pasturing there as many sheep, cows, and horses as they can send to it, or the pasture can support. The parish contains upwards of 1000 cultivated acres. The * Papa-Stour is one of the very faw Scottish localities oFfluor spar. It was dis. covered there, and is mentioned by Professor Jameson in his " Mineralogy of the Shetland Islands." WALLS. 21 crops produced are oats, bear, potatoes, cabbages, and a very few turnip. There are only three ploughs in the parish, and they all belong to proprietors. The industrious and careful are, in general, well provided with wearing apparel and bed-clothes, manufactured by themselves from their own wool. Their Sunday dresses are imported. Their houses are warm ; but very little attention is paid to either order or cleanliness by most. Indeed, it is the general practice to place the byre in front of the dwelling-house ; through which, therefore, you must pass on entering; and inside, you meet with calves, sheep, and young pigs, besides dogs and fowls. Fishing. — The principal fishing is that of the ling. It is carried on in open boats many miles from land. A considernfile quantity of the cod fish is caught nearer the shore by old men and boys, in smaller boats than those used in catching the ling. The herring fishing has been introduced of late years to a great extent, and is likely to prove very beneficial. It commences after the ling fishing is concluded, ��� generally about the middle of August, and continues for a month or six weeks. The rents of the farms are paid from the profits of the fishing, and from the sale of cattle and butter. IV. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — There are four parish churches, — being one to each of the four districts of which the parish is composed. They are all conveniently situated, (except the church of Walls, which is only one mile from one end of the district to which it be- longs, and four miles from the other end), and they contain the legal amount of accommodation. Each congregation has its own elders, session-clerk, and poor's fund, and the Lord's Supper is dispensed annually to each. As there is only one minister. Di- vine service is performed in the different churches in rotation ; in Walls once every fortnight, and in Sandness and Papa once in four weeks, and in summer occasionally once a-fortnight, — both places being attended to on the same day. Foula is visited only once a-year, on which occasion the minister remains in the island two Sabbaths, preaching frequently during the interval. If there was a minister for Sandness and Papa, the minister of Walls might visit Foula twice a-year; but at present, while he attends to it, he leaves behind him three churches vacant. In each church, how- ever, there is a reader, (generally the schoolmaster of the district), 22 SHETLAND. whoy every Lord's day, reads a sermon to the people, acd united with them in devotional exercises. The Wesleyan Methodists have three chapels in this parish, and one minister, who has also to officiate in the parish of Sand- sting. Their members are 216 in number. The Congregational ists have two chapels and one minister, who has also to officiate in many other parts. Their members are 115 in number. The communicants belonging to the Established Church are 584 in number; namely, 240 in Walls, 159 in Sandness, 136 in Papa, and 49 in Foula. The stipend of the parish minister is L.150 per annum, and the glebe is worth about L.15. Education. — In each of the districts or parbhes, there is an en- dowed school. One of these is the parish school ; the other three are supported by the Society in Scotland for Propagating Christ- ian Knowledge. Occasionally, a few children in different parts are taught by persons employed by the parents for this purpose, on account of the distance at which they are placed from the parochial or Society school; and some are taught at home by the parents them- selves, '^^hough not more than a twelfth part of the population attend school at one time, and very often a much smaller number, yet the whole of the young people learn to read their Bibles with tolerable accuracy. A considerable number also learn to write, but seldom before they are grown up, — the parents considering that they discharge their duty sufficiently when they afford them the means of learning to read. As the young people seldom at- tend public worship till they are able, by their own exertions, to provide themselves with clothes for the purpos'e, it is of the utmost importance that the school masters be men of piety and intelligence. Many parents might provide their children with such clothes as would enable them to go to church, if there was a willing mind. The industry of the young people themselves in this matter is very commendable. One additional school is required for Walls, which, it is hoped, will soon be provided. The district for which it is needed contains upwards of 300 persons. Scarcely any school fees can be got from the scholars. Poor. — The poor arc very easily supported, and in the follow- ing manner : The parish is divided into sections ; and when a poor person has no relations who can support him, he is assigned to one of these, — the inhabitants of which receive him into their houses FETLAR AND NORTH TELL. S3 in rotatioD and board him, while the poor's fund supplies what is required for clothing. This fund is derived from collections made at the doors of the churches, and amounts to about L.10 annually* Revised May 1841. UNITED PARISHES OF FETLAR AND NORTH YELL. PRESBYTERY OF BURAVOE, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. THE REV. WILLIAM WATSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. The united parishes consist of the Island of Fetlar and the north part of the Island of Yell. Extent and Boundaries. — Fetlar is in north latitude between about 60^ 34' and 60^ dS" by Thomas's chart ; bounded on the east, by the German Ocean ; south, by the wide frith separating it from Whalsay and the mainland ; west, by Colgrave Sound be- tween it and Yell ; and north, by the Sound which separates it from Unst and Isle of Uyea. It is 7 miles long and 4 miles broad. North Yell is in latitude between 60° 37' and 60° 43^ ; bounded on the east, by Blue Mull Sound, separating it from Unst ; south, by Mid Yell ; west and north, by the Northern Ocean. Lengthy G miles ; breadth, 5 miles. The figure of both is very irregular, being indented by nume- rous bays and inlets of the sea. There are no mountain ranges but several bills, none of which rise more than 300 feet above the level of the sea. In both parishes, there are some fertile valleys. The coasts, both of Fetlar and North Yell, are of great extent, owing to the many bays in both. In Fetlar, the principal bays are, Tresta, sandy; Aith Bay, pebbly; Funzic, the only ling-fishing station in the island ; Gruting Voe, pebbly ; Uric, where there is a kind of pier lately built; Sand, a small sandy bay ; and Mowick, where the people of the east part of the island bring down their peats from the hill of Lambhoga, to be transported home by sea. The principal bays in North Yell are, Basta Voe, a broad, 24 SHETLAND. deep, shingly bay ; Gloiip Voe, long, narrow, and partly sandy ; Sand of Brecon, Papal, and CulKvoe. Our climate is mild but moist ; snow seldom lies more than three or four days at a time. Rheumatism and stomach com* plaints are very prevalent, and sometimes fever comes amongst us, but is seldom very fatal North Yell is said to be more healthy than Fetlar. Hydrography. — Colgrave Sound bounds Fetlar from south-west to north-west : it is about nine miles broad between I^ambhoga in Fetlar, and Burravoe in South Yell, and three miles broad be* tween Hammersness in Fetlar, and Burraness in North Yell. The Sound between Fetlar and Unst, is about six miles broad, and Blue Mull Sound, betwixt North Yell and Unst, about one or two miles, where narrowest. In all these sounds, but particularly in Blue Mull Sound, the tides run at a very rapid rate, so strong when wind and tide are contrary, that no boat or vessel could at- tempt to stem them. We have some mineral springs but of no account, and no lochs of any consequence, though numerous small ones. The largest is in Fetlar, in the neighbourhood of the manse, which may be three* fourths of a mile long, and one-fourth broad. Geology. — Serpentine, containing chromate of iron, is an abun- dant rock ; associated with the serpentine are deposits of mica slate, quartz rock, gneiss, chlorite slate, and clay slate. We may add to our list of rocks, diallage rock, syenite and syenitic green- stone, and granite in veins. Zoology. — Sea*fowl in abundance breed on our rocks and holms, and many eggs are taken in the breeding season. Scarths, gulls, kittiwakes, marrots, mother Carey*s chickens, and ducks of vari- ous kinds, abound. The wild swan pays us a visit in considerable numbers, going north and returning. Of land-fowls we have the corbie, the hooded-crow, the hawk, the grey plover, sparrow, linnet, starling, blackbird, wren, snowfleck. The mother Carey's chickens breed in deserted rabbit holes in the holms. The plovers, starlings, linnets, sparrows, snowflecks, and corn buntings are found in large flocks. I have seen only one or two robins, and once heard the cry of the cuckoo. The corncraik comes to us in summer, and wild pigeons are in abundance. Our breed of cattle and ponies is small but hardy. A good num- ber of both is sold every year ; fat cattle, from L.2 to L.3 ; ponies, FETLAR AND NORTH YELL. 25 {rom L.1, 10s. to L.5. -Tbe prices of both have been consider- ably raised since the steamer commenced. A mixed breed of sheep was, some years ago, introduced into Fetlar, by Sir Arthur Nicolson, and scab, which was unknown among the native breed, was introduced along with theoL This mixed breed does not seem to thrive well. In the small lochs there is plenty of trout, which go up the burn to spawn about the end of September. Ling, cod, haddock, tur- bot, seath and flounders, are found in our friths and bays, sillocks and piltocks all along our shores. Limpets and welks are com- mon. The limpet is used for bait to catch haddock, sillock, and piltock. Spouts and large muscles are sometimes driven ashore in stormy weather. Large oysters are dragged in Bastavoe; and some spouts are taken in Gloupvoe. There are no forests of any kind in the parish. A few stunt- ed trees and bushes drag out a miserable existence in some of the gardens. A few apples have grown in the noianse garden, also some gooseberries, currants, and strawberries. II. — Civil History. Land-owners. — There are 28 proprietors in Fetlar and North Yell, of whom the chief are. Lord Dundas, Sir Arthur Nicolson, and William Mouat, Esq. Parochial Registers. — No parochial register is to be found, of older date than 1754 : it commences with the ordination of Mr Gor- don on the 12th June of that year, and was irregularly kept till 1803, when a new book was begun, in which the births and marriages are pretty regularly entered ; but there are no entries of deaths. Antiquities. — In antiquities, we are not behind our neighbours, if any body thought it worth while to investigate them. We have St Hillary's kirk above Feal, Old kirk at Fetchie Burn, Roman Catholic chapels at Oddsta, Urie, Rossiter, Gruting, Strand, Hubie, Funzie, North Dale, Roman camp at Snawburgh, Pictish forts at brough of Hubie and Aithsness, two round Pictish build- ings at Aithsness, several fonts dug up at Aithsness, some urns at Stackaberg with ashes, and bones among the ashes, stone urns dug up in the manse yard in 1828^ old burial place at Hammers- field, where the bodies have been burnt, numbers of small round tumuli among the hills. All these in Fetlar. In North Yell, is a brough at Burraness almost entire, and another at Brough. Modern Buildings. — The only modern buildings which we have in Fetlar are, a nondescript kind of house, designed for a mansion- 26 SHETLAND. housOf by Sir Arthur Nicolson, and a modem mansIoD-house, be- longing to Mr Smith, an heritori both built of graystone from quarries in their neighbourhood. In North Yell, are several modern buildings, — the church, the houses of Gloup, Midbrake, and Greenbank, all built of stone from' their neighbourhood, with some freestone from Lerwick, for lintels to doors, windows, &c. III. — Population. Dr Web8ter*8 report in 1755 is the oldest authentic statement, and it states the population of the two parishes at 109B Mr Gordon's in 1793, . . 1346 M. F. r-n.M.«fiftai i Fetlar, 843 ifi7ft «ffK««.3B3 460 in Fetlar. Census of 1831, jj^^^' Yell, 837 1678, of these 3^3 459 j^ n. Y. FetUr, 1836, 859 North Yell, 1838, 960 The probable causes of this increase are, Isty no drains from the parish since the peace ; 2d, no epidemical diseases ; Qd, early marriages; 4M, the introduction of vaccination. All our population resides in the country. We have no towns or villages. Average of marriages in Fetlar for the last seven years, . 4f in North Yell, . . 5| births in Fetlar, . . « ]7« in North Yell, • 14^ Number of persons under 15 in Fetlar, 306, in Nortli Yell, 283^ betwixt 15 and 30, 205, do. do. 212 30 and 50, 178, do. do. 167 50 and 70, 111, do. do. 136 upwards of 70, 43, do. do. 39 843 837 In Fetlar, the number of widowers is . • 17 of bachelors, . . 6 of widows, . . 82 ofunmarried women upwards of 45, 28 The number of families in Fetlar is . 147 in North Yell, . 169 Average number of children in a family, , 4 inhabited houses, Fetlar, . 134 North Yell, 150 uninhabited houses, Fetlar, . 9 North Yell, 11 The people are not remarkable for any personal qualities. There are, in the two parishes, two insane persons, two silly, three blind, one deaf and dumb. The people are social enough among themselves, — sympathize with one another, — are apt to murmur at their high rents, — are not intemperate, since smuggling has been almost entirely put down ; but, within these few years, they have fallen into an abominable habit of smoking tobacco. PETLAR AND NORTH YELL. 27 IV. — Industry. All the males in the two parishes, except a few to be hereafter mentioned, are employed in agriculture. Those who are employ- ed in the home fishery, have all something to do with the cultiva- tion of land, as heads of families, or children, or servants belong- ing to the family. There cannot be said to be any manufactures among us. A few, at their leisure intervals from the work of the farm or fishing, (for these two occupations are conjoined), employ themselves in weaving << hame claith," or in making and mending clothes or shoes. In the two parishes, there may be ten or twelve persons, who are chiefly employed as masons ; but all of these have small farms, and most of them are engaged in the herring-fishing in the season. In Fetlar, there are two retail merchants for tea, spirits, cloths, &c. and the same number in North Yell. There are in Fetlar, 123 men at the ling and herring fishing; 32 at Green- land and Davis' Straits; and 26 superannuated labourers. In North Yell, there are 128 ling and herring fishers; 25 at Green- land and Davis' Straits ; and about the same number superannu- ated. We cannot reckon, in the two parishes, more than five or six men-servants, all above 20. Of women-servants, there are 38 in Fetlar, and 44 in North Yell. Agriculture, — I cannot give an accurate account of the number of acres cultivated and uncultivated in the two parishes ; but there are in Fetlar 786| merks, and in North Yell, 634 merks of cul- tivated land, each merk being about three-fourths of an acre. Of uncultivated land, there may be in Fetlar from 10,000 to 12,000 acres, all undivided common, except 1200 acres, and a great proportion of which might be cultivated with a profitable application of capital. In North Yell, there may be from 12,000 to 15,000 acres un- cultivated, all undivided common ; much of which might be im- proved, though it is much more rugged than Fetlar, and not nearly so capable of being cultivated. Rent of Land. — The average rent of land in Fetlar is about 16s. per merk, and in North Yell, about L. 1, with privilege of hill pasture. The expense of grazing an ox or cow for the sum- mer is 6s., and a sheep for the year Is. 6d. Prices. — The price of oats per lispund of 32 lbs. is Is. 9d. ; of bear. Is. 8d. ; of potatoes, 6d. per anker of 10 gallons; wool, from 8d. to Is. per pound; wadmal or claith, from Is. to Is. 4d. ; 28 SHETLAND. stockings, from Is. to 5s. and upwards. Stockings made in Fet- lar have been sold as high as L. 2, 2s. per pair ; gloves from 6d. to 10s. per pair. Live-stock. — A mixed breed of sheep has been mtrodaced into Fetlar. The old breed is kept up in North Yell, which, though much smaller, and producing less wool, seems to stand our climate much better, to be hardier, and to have fewer diseases than the new breed. The cattle are small, and no attention is paid to their improvement. My own cows are a kind of cross, considerably larger than any in the parish ; but they are not so hardy, require considerably more food and . attention, and are not so easily fatted as the pure Shetland breed. The character of our husbandry is very slovenly, there being only four ploughs in Fetlar, and one in North Yell. The infield rotation in Fetlar is varied; 1. potatoes^ bear with manure above, lea, two crops of oats, then potatoes ; 2. potatoes, oats, bear with manure below, oats, then potatoes; 3. potatoes, two crops of oats, bear with manure below, then potatoes. The first rotation is accounted the best ; and when the bear comes after potatoes, the ground is neither ploughed nor dug, but scratched with a harrow after sowing, and the manure spread above. Outfield notation. — Oats and lea alternately. The oats are found to be more fertile in this way, especially when manured. In North Yell, the land is cropped every year. Rotation — bear, oats, potatoes ; but the land must be manured every year, except to potatoes, which are always planted in infield ground. The small gray oat is generally used, and this, from never changing the seed, has degenerated so far as to be little larger than rye-grass seeds. Potato oats, and other kinds of white oats have been tried by a few, but they seldom ripen, and are more liable to be shaken than the gray oats, though in good ground they grow very luxuriantly. Barley has been tried in a few places, and in good years has suc- ceeded tolerably. Wheat has also been tried in North Yell, with indifierent success. We want enclosures to protect, and sun to ripen it Very few outsets have been made in Fetlar ; a good many in North Yell. By these, a considerable quantity of hill ground has been brought in, to the great displeasure of those who occupy the rental land, as they curtail their hill pasture, and thereby render their farms less valuable, though they pay the same rents as before TIETLAR AND NORTH YELL. 29 the outsets were made. We have no system of draining, irriga* tion, or embanking, by which either the old or the new lands can be properly improved. Indeed, there is no encouragement for im- provement, — al] except a very few being tenants at will on a rack* rent, their farm-bui]dings in general most wretched, and no en- closures except paltry ring-fences of turf. Where any improve- ment is made, a neighbour, envying the industrious tenant, goes to the laird, and offers a shilling or two per merk more rent, when the improver must either pay this additional rent, or flit at next term. Mr Jerom Johnson, a small udaller, who had been a consider- able time in the army; at Gibraltar, Minorca, and with General Abercromby in Egypt, on his return home, more than five and twenty years ago, made great improvement on his kail-yard, con- verting it into a neat, small garden, where he cultivates currant bushes, and other shrubs, flowers, turnip, onions, pease, carrots, and tobacco. He claims the honour of being the first who intro- duced field turnip into Fetlar. Mr George Lyle has, of late years, rented a small spot, of formerly barren ground, between two and three acres, which he has enclosed, and in which he cultivates with success, Scots oats and barley, field and garden turnip, cabbage, greens, and pease, though he holds a lease of only seven years. This shows what might be done, if landlords would give encouragement by granting leases, and giving proper accommodation to their te- nants. Quarries. — Some years ago, there was a quarry of chromate of iron wrought in this island ; but it is exhausted, and no other has since been opened. Wherever houses are to be built, quarries are opened in their neighbourhood, and the necessary quantity of stones taken for the purpose required, — afler which, they are de- serted. Fisheries. — The fisheries are a most important branch of our statistics. If prosecuted with vigour, they would prove to us an inexhaustible mine of wealth. But in this, as in most other branches of our economy, we are far behind in the race of im- provement Our boats are too small, and our means too limited, to enable us to make the proper exertions. Nevertheless, we are doing something; and, being well situated for the prosecution both of ling and herring-fishing, it is hoped that in time we may make 30 SHETLAND. greater progress. The ling- fishing has been long carried on, and formerly to greater advantage than of late years. The grievous catastrophe of 1832 seems greatly to have damped the spirit of our fishermen. The ling-fishing is carried on from Funzie, on the east side of Fetlar, and from Gloup, on the north sidp of Yell, the former open to the Eastern, the latter to the Northern Ocean. But there are various other stations, in both parishes, where her- rings are cured. Though innumerable shoals of herrings yearly traverse our seas, and though our neighbours, the Dutch, have for centuries been battening on our wealth, it is but of very late years that Shetland has begun to avail herself of her own stores. There is not a more commodious station for the herring-fishing in the whole of Shet- land, than the Island of Fetlar. About the end of June or begin- ning of July, the herrings set into our bays, and continue with us till the middle of October. Some suppose that they remain all the winter, but this I will not affirm. Blow from whatever airth the wind may, the boats have shelter, for the fish surround the whole island. Boats from other parishes fish herrings in our bays, and are often obliged, by stress of weather, to land in our island, and sell their fish to any curer that will buy them, and at any price he chooses to give. There are three herring-curing stations in Fetlar, viz. Urie, Strand, and Aithbanks, and two in North Yell, CuUivoe, and Bayanne: the North Yell boats coming out every evening to our shores, and returning in the morning when the weather per- mits. Formerly, it w^as the custom in Fetlar for every tenant to keep up one-sixth of a boat for the ling-fishing, furnishing lines and other materials himself, and to give his fish to the landlord or tacksman at a certain rate. For a few years back, the mode here has been for the fish-curers to give boats and lines free to the fishermen, and to receive their fish at a reduced price. In North Yell, most of the tenants still keep up boats and lines for themselves, giving their landlords or tacksmen their fish at the current price ; but they are prohibited from selling their fish to any but the landlord or his tacksman. In the herring-fishing, again, the Fetlar, men furnish their own boats and nets, and are obliged to deliver their herrings to the tacksmen at the current price. The North Yell men generally use their own boats, re- FETLAR AND NORTH YELL. 31 ceive nets from the landlord or his tacksman, gi'f^ing the half of the produce for the use of the nets, and selling the other half to him — the landlord, or tacksman, and no other, for the current price. The following statement of the fishing in Fetlar and North Yell, may not be uninteresting. Fetlar Fishing. 1834. Ling. M *i to 90 <58 tl li Jill kt^ 2 19 6 7 6 5 19 7 6 6 4 19 7 6 3 18 6 6 6 3 13 5 6 4 17 12 30 230 12 75 96 651 Herrings.' C3 ^ 21 9 5 6 19 7 6 5 10 19 7 — 3 19 6 7 4 21 B a 10 30 54 12 5 fe •• ® i o 288 580 1000 253 20 42 80 24 106 2121 126 2 19 6 6 19 19 5 2 4 19 7 7 7 LiKG. 6 12 6 6 6 18 6 6 6 13 5 6 4 Fetlar Fishing. 1835. 90 36 329 30 12 16 54 |297 106 770 3 21 9 8 19 7 10 19 7 4 19 6 7 25 Herring 5 15 6 5 40 ^_ 52 4 16 ]84t 30 30U 56 330 90 90 32 123 905| 251 o j2 Ling. ^ ^. a "^M 8 19 & 20 7 6 6 2 19 7 4 6 19 6 18 6 6 19 2 18 19 8 17 18 6 1 1 1 1 3 6 6 6 6 6 7 6 6 10 6 4 6 6 6 5 6 6 6 North Yell Fishing. 1834. 5 o 48 550 12 68 6 34 6 14 36 10 '\ 1 572 6 18 53 70 Herring. 25 148 1361 ^s ®i; ^i 58 8« li 13 19 & 20 7 6 3 19 7 4 14 18 7 1 19 8 6 10 1 18 6 6 6 «&*! si Is i'E? o-l 4 52 4 12 4 56 4 4 4 4 1066 104 195 18 1120 112 74 9 67J 8 128 2522| 251 * Shortest net 32 yards long* by twelve score meshes deep. Longest net 50 yards long, by fifteen score meshes deep. For these five or six past years, the herring- fishing has miserably failed : many of the small adventurers hare been ruined, while those of great capital have sufTered much. The ling, cod, and seath fishing has suc- ceeded tolerably. 32 SHETLAND. 1835. No. of Boats. Feet of Keel. Feet of Beam. Men in each. Total Men. Cwts. of Fish caught. No. of Boats. Feet of KecL Feel of Beam. Men in each. Total Men. 5|i ^^ 8 19 & 20 7 6 6 48 595 16 19 & 20 74 8 4 64 454 123 8 19 7 4 6 18 160 4 19 7 4 4 16 59 24 1 19 6 6 6 6 6 40 15 18 7 4 60 315 120 1 18 6 6 6 6 13 2 19 8 6 10 4 8 53 16 6 19 7 6 ?o|«^' 1 18 6 6 6 4 4 18 8 2 18 6 5 •iH^ MMMB ^iMM — — — «— _.- ... 1 19 8 6 10 6 6 474 38 152 899 296 S 18 6 6 6 6 18 94i 25 148 1559 V. — Parochial Economy. Market^Towns, — The nearest market-town is Lerwick, the ca- pital of Shetland, distant from thirty to forty miles by sea, of a dangerous navigation ; boats are frequently lost in the passage. Means of Communication. — There is no post-office in Fetlar. Our letters often lie weeks on the way. • In North Yell, there is a country post-office, which has communication with Lerwick twice a-week. We have no turnpike roads — no roads of any kind — not even sheep tracks, but must guide our way by rneaths from hill to hill, and from toon to toon. No public carriages, no railroads or bridges; no canals, no harbours, but some open roadsteads, as Tresta Voe, Strandwick and Urie, in Fetlar ; Bas- ta Voe and Cullivoe in North Yell. Of these, Basta Voe and Cullivoe are pretty safe ; the others very unsafe, except in the height of summer. Ecclesiastical State. — In both parishes, the churches are situat- ed close upon the sea-shore, — that of Fetlar at betwixt four and five miles distance from the farthest extremity of the island south- east ; that of North Yell, at betwixt five and six miles from the farthest extremity south. The church of Fetlar was rebuilt in 1790, and is much too small for the accommodation of the parish, having legal sitting, communion forms included, for only 267 persons. The exami- nable persons in the parish are 553. The communicants at last sacrament, in May last, were 372, all parishioners of Fetlar. 'J'he church of North Yell was built in 1832 ; and, notwith- standing the repeated remonstrances of the minister, for which he subjected himself to much obloquy and ill-will, it is too small, having legal accommodation only for 327, including sacramental ♦ Shortest net 82 yards long, by twelve score meshes deep. Longest net 50 yards ^ngf by fifteen score meshes deep. 3 FETLAR AND NORTH YELL. 33 Forms. The examinable persons are 614; and the communicants at last sacrament, the Sabbath after Fetlar, 399, all parishioners of North Yell. The communion forms are the only free sittings* The manse was built in 1756, out of the vacant stipend; re- paired in 1805, again in 1824, and again in 1833. Still, it is very uncomfortable, exceedingly damp, being built in a morass. Hence the walls draw water like a syphon. Neither books, nor clothes^ nor provisions will keep in it ; and, although a good deal of money has been expended on it, the minister has neither comfort nor pro- per accommodation in it. The glebe consists of 12 merks, and would let for L. 9. The stipend is L. 180, including communion elements. Were taxes, and expense of travelling to his church in North Yell, and to Presbyteries, to be deducted, the minister's clear yearly income would not amount to L. 150. There is one chapel in Fetlar belonging to the Methodists. It may be said that all the families in both parishes attend the Established Church, there being no families that I know, the whole members of which are Methodists ; but there are individuals to the number of from 20 to 30 in Fetlar, and from 10 to 15 in North Yell, that are connected with the Methodists. In good weather, the Established Church is generally thronged; on sa- cramental occasions, crowded almost to suffocation. The church collections in Fetlar last year, including commu- nion, amounted to L.6, ]s. 8d. ; in North Yell, L.6, 15s. 9d. Education. — There is one parochial school in North Yell, and one private; one Society school in Fetlar, two private. The branches taught in the parochial and Society's schools are, reading, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, and navigation. The parochial schoolmaster has the minimum salary; the Society schoolmaster L.15. Their emoluments from scholars are small, not more than L. 8 at most. From an account taken as accurately as possible by the minis- ter in December 1834, it was found that there were in Males under 5 learning to read, Females do. Males between 5 and 15 taught or learning. Females do. . • • • ^ Males between 5 and 15 taught to write or learning. Females do. ... Persons above 15 who cannot read, write. The reason that North Yell is behind Fetlar in education is SHETLAND. C Fetlar. North Yell. 6 4 10 2 103 76 91 63 d6 20 17 6 17 16 275 284 34 SHETLAND. . that Fetlar has had a Society school established in it, for a consw derable number of years ; and it is only eight years since the pa* rish school has been fixed in North YelL The people in neither parish are so much alive to the benefits of education as could be wished. There are, on the west side of Fetlar, two schools for children who are not able to attend at the Society's school, — one taught by a woman permanently through the year ; the other by a lad during the winter quarter. Each of them has from 20 to. 30 scholars. There is, besides, an old man who has 5 or G children attending him ; his number seldom amounting to 10. North Yell, though it has the advantage of the parish school, and a good teacher, is not so well provided with the means of education. The parish school is situated near the north end of the parish, and is convenient only for the inhabitants of the north, leaving those of the south quite destitute. Some years ago, a subscription was entered into for building a school and schooUhouse for the accommodation of that destitute quarter; but, though the minister subscribed L. 5, 5s. from his own family, the whole subscriptions did not amount to L. 19. The expense would have been more than four times the sum raised ; so the scheme was dropped ; and as the people are neither richer nor more willing now, it need not be resumed. On a visit to that quarter lately, I found that upwards of 130 scholars betwixt five and eighteen might attend a school, were there one in the neigh- bourhood. Nothing has been done to supply this deficiency, and nothing can be done by the parish on account of its poverty. Un- less subscriptions can be obtained in the south for a school and school-house, the parish roust still sufier. Library. — There is a parochial library in Fetlar, containing 200 volumes, mostly religious. There are about thirty subscribers at Is. a-year. In North Yell, there is also a small one ; but it is falling off, Poor, — Our poor are quartered on the several districts of the pa- rish, being maintained by the inhabitants of those districts, and re- ceiving a small sum annually for clothing from the poor's fund. There are only 13 in Fetlar receiving out of the poor's funds, and 7 or 8 in North Yell. Public- Houses, — There are two houses in Fetlar licensed to sell spirits, and as many in North Yell, Miscellaneous Observations. Since the last Statistical Account was written there has been FBTLAR AND NORTH YELL. 35 B considerable increase in the number of inhabitants. Tlie pa- Tishes are susceptible of much improvement, were a better system of husbandry introduced, — were farms enlarged, and nineteen years leases granted. But the people are rather of a rambling turn ; do not like to be confined to one place ; are often flitting from mere caprice ; frequently remove to Lerwick, where they think they will be free of voar and harvest labour; and, after hav- ing spent, in Lerwick, what little they have saved here, return des- titute, and are glad to get a bit of land, probably much inferior to what they possessed years before. Since the above was written, a fearful increase of destitution has taken place. The three or four years of famine preceding the last harvest have completely impoverished almost every family in the two parishes, and the poor have increased far beyond the means in our power to relieve them. In the years of famine, the parish poor had more good meal supplied them, than they could ever before command; for the stores sent us by the benevolence of our brethren in Scotland and England (though the portion given to our poor was very scanty in comparison) were regularly doled out to them, and gave them a more abundant supply than they oould have received from their own country produce, even in the best years. But now, since this source has been closed up, and those by whom they used to be maintained can hardly maintain themselves, I know not what is to become of them. Our rich he- ritors are non-resident, and, though written to repeatedly, have not responded very satisfactorily to our calls ; and the resident small heritors have enough to do with themselves. In addition to the temporal wants of these parishes, they suffer much from spiritual destitution. From the difiicuUies of travelling, the parish of North Yell must often be without sermon for many weeks ; and in the most favour- able circumstances there can be sermon there only onoe a fortnight. From the poverty of the parish nothing can be done to remedy this evil ; and, unless the Committee on the Royal Bounty will place an ordained minister in North Yell to take the spiritual charge of that parish, it must still continue in that neglected state. Revised June \^\. PARISH OF UNST. PRESBYTERY OF BURRAVOB, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. THE REV. JAMES INGRAM, A. M. MINISTER. THE REV. JOHN INGRAM, A. M. Assistant and Successor. I. — Topography and Natural History. Boundaries, 8fc. — The island of Unst, of which this parish coDsists, lies in north latitude 60^ 45' ; west longitude 50'. Its length from south to north is 12 miles, and its mean breadth three miles. Its form approaches to an oblong square, and it contains upwards of 36 square miles or 24,000 acres. It is separated from the island of Yell by Blumel Sound, on the south-west, a rapid tide-way of about a mile in breadth; and from Fetlar, on the south side, by a sound four miles broad. It has the German Ocean on the east and north, and the Atlantic on its west coast. Topographical Appearances, — A considerable proportion of its surface is dry and level, when compared with many other parts of Zetland ; and although it has not yet the advantage of turnpike roads, one can ride from one end of it to the other without meeting any obstructions. Hills of a moderate height di- versify its scenery. Valleyfield, nearly 700 feet in height, runs along the western coast, and forms a strong barrier against the fierce assaults of the Atlantic, which, notwithstanding, dashes its huge billows against it with such fury, during a north-west gale, that foam and spray are thrown over it, into the valley on its eastern side, and strongly impregnate with salt every green herb. This hill terminates in a long projecting headland, called Herman- ness (from a hero who is said to have landed, in days of old, on these shores), the most northern point of the island, and of her Majesty's dominions. On the east side of this hill, is a valley, extending from Uyea Sound in the south, to Burrafirth in the north, almost the whole length of the island ; and in it there is a continued chain of lochs, which empty themselves, — one part of them, into the sea at Uyea Sound, — the other part, at Burrafrith. The lochs in the south division, from their dimensions, are called the small waters. The loch of Watly, the first in the northern chain, UNST. 37 is one mile long ; the next to it is the Loch of Cliff, three miles long. An arm of the latter runs towards the .east, on the north side of the hill of Crucifield, for nearly a mile, and is called the Loch of Quoyhouse. Saxa Vord, a hill of 938 feet in height, on the east side of the bay of Burrafirth, rises abruptly from the sea, and its bluff round-head, showing itself considerably above every other point of land in its neighbourhood, makes a very con- spicuous mark for Bshermen, along the whole eastern coast. Cru- ciBeld runs from west to east, at right angles with ValleyBeld, and separated from it by the loch of Cliff, and terminates in its eastern extremity in two conical points called Heogs, one of them, much higher than the other, and supposed to have been anciently a place where courts of law were held, and where criminals were executed. This hill lies nearly across the middle of the island, and separates the Mid from the North parish. A little to the south-east of Crucifield is a high headland, called the Keen of Hammer, (query? the Celtic Cean)^ which forms one side of the north entrance to Balta Sound. The Vord Hill, on the south side of the voe or harbour, stretches along the east coast. Valleyfield and Saxa Vord, and the hills connected with them, are covered with peat^moss, an article most useful in this northern climate, where no coal has yet been discovered. To the eastward of the valley which runs along the base of Valleyfield, and following the course of the Loch of Cliff, and turning off by the Loch of Quoy- house, all that section of the island to the south and east (except- ing some small spots in the south-east extremity), is completely denuded of moss, and has a bare stony appearance. Notwithstand- ing, it yields excellent pasture for the native horses and sheep, which thrive remarkably well upon it. This section is composed principally of serpentine, hornblende, and diallage rocks. The hills to the north and west are chiefly composed of gneiss. Caves. — There are a variety of caves round the coast, but not worthy of notice. Under a very high and precipitous rock, which forms the north-eastern base of Saxa Vord, a noted haunt of kit- tiwakes and other aquatic birds, there is a grand natural arch, having sufficient breadth and depth of water to admit a boat to be rowed through it; it is 300 feet in length, and of considerable height Sea Coast — Captain Thomas of the Investigator, who has been employed for some years in surveying the coasts of Zetland, has been very particular in his survey of this island, both along its coast and in the interior. When his chart appears, it will furnish \ 3S SHETLAND. all the information that can be wished for, as to the form and ex • tent of the coast, &c. The shores of Unst, like every other part of Zetland, are deeply indented by numerous bays and creeks^ some of which are low and sandy. The intervening headlands^ especially in the north-east, north, and west coasts, are bold, high, precipitous rocks^ The principal bays are, Burrafirth, on the north; Norwick, and Haroldswick, and Sandwick, on the east; Watswick and Wick, on the south-west ; and Woodwick, on the west side. None of these are safe harbours. Burrafirth and Nor- wick are two deep sandy bays, quite open towards the sea. Both have a very romantic appearance, and a considerable extent of good land on their shores, and are much admired by strangers who occasionally visit this island. The only safe harbours are, Balta Sound, on the east coast, about the middle of the island, completely covered from the sea by the grazing island of Balta, the property of Thomas Edmondston, Esq. of Buness, whose ma- nor house is situated near the bottom of the Voe, or harbour ; and Uyea Sound, on the south, covered by the island of Uyea, (about a mile and a half long, and one mile in breadth, an appendage of this parish, and the property of Thomas Leisk, Esq.) The grazing islands of Haaf Grunie and Huna, and the holms of Sk% Burrafirth, Woodwick, Newgord, Heogaland, and Weatherholm, belong to the proprietors of Unst, and lie along its shores, afford- ing pasture for a considerable number of black-cattle and sheep. Hydrography. — The streams of tide oflf some of the extreme points, especially ofi" Hermanness, Ska, and Lambaness, are so rapid and turbulent, that it is extremely dangerous, and often im- possible for boats to cross them, even in moderate weather, and it not unfrequently happens that they perish in the attempt. Perennial springs of excellent fresh water are most copious and abundant in every part of the island ; but tliere is nothing remark* able either in their situation or character. Geology. — The chief rocks in this island are, gneiss, serpen- tine, diallage rock, and chlorite slate. Besides these the follow- ing may also be enumerated, viz. talc slate, protogine, limestone, quartz rock, hornblende rock, and mica slate. The most import- ant ore is the chrome ore, or chromate of iron.* II. — Civil History. Land-owners. — The chief laud-owners, in the order of the ex- *r^ ^'^aw^if"! mineral, the HydromagncsUe of Professor Jameson, was discovered by Dr Hibbcrt in considerable veins in serpentine at Svinancss. UNST. 39 tent of their property, are, William Mouat, Esq. of Garth, proprietor of nearly one-half of the parish ; Thomas Edmondston, Esq. of Buness; the Right Honourable Lord Dundas; James Ogilvy, Esq. of Greenwell ; Thomas Leisk, Esq. of Uyea ; and Gilbert. Spence, Esq. of Hammer. There are twenty-three other small proprietors, possessing from 20 down to 3 merks of land. Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers are of very mo- dern date. The first entry is made in October 1776. No doubt, records must have existed, at a much more remote period ; but after the most diligent inquiry, not the least vestige of them can now be traced. Antiquities, — Around the island, and so situated, that the one can bo seen from the next in order, is a continued line of ruinous buildings, called Pict's houses, or castles, or burghs, — round tow- ers, open in the top, with massy walls, built of large stones. Some of them stand in the midst of small lochs ; some on projecting headlands on the margin of the sea ; and others on level ground, and surrounded by two or three ditches or moats. According to tradition, they were used as watch-towers, for the purpose of com- municating, by means of smoke, intelligence of the approach of an enemy ; and this could be speedily done over all Zetland. At Muness, in the south-east quarter, there is a ruinous feudal castle, now the property of William Mouat, Esq. of Garth, which bears over the main entrance the date 1598, together with the follow- ing inscription : LiRi yc to knaw this building quha began, Laurance the Bruce, he was that worthy man, Quha carncstlie his ayris and affspring prayis, To help and not to hurt this waik aiwayis. This Laurence Bruce is said to have been of the family of Cults- malindie, in Perthshire, and to have fled hither, in consequence of having slain a neighbour in an afl*ray. The castle is an oblong square, 60 feet by 18 within the wall, and 24 in height At each of the four angles, is a tower. Two of these are hanging ; the other two rise from the ground. On the hill of Crucifield, are some concentric circles of earth and stone, with eminences raised in the middle, where, perhaps, in the days of Paganism, the priest of Odin had performed his unholy rites. . . . Two ancient obe- lisks, or standing stones, are to be seen, the one near Greenwell, a rude, unshapely mass ; the other near Uyea Sound, higher and 40 SHETLAND. more tapering, but without any inscription or traditionary story .^ Each is supposed to commemorate the site of a battle when some renowned warrior fell. The ruins or some vestige of an ancient chapel, are found at 'every turning. No fewer than twenty-four, at some remote pe- riod, have been standing in this parish. One of them, called the Cross Kirk, or St Cruz, in the neighbourhood of Harpldswick^ is still accounted a holy place, and occasional pilgrimages are made to it by some of the older inhabitants, whose minds are not yet emancipated from the Popish superstitions of their ancestors* There are six burying-places in the parish, around the ruins of so many old kirks, viz. at Norwick, Haroldswick, Balliasta, Sand- wick, Wick, and Uyea. The Rev. William Archibald, who offi- ciated as clergyman of this parish, from the year 1735 to 1785^ preached, by rotation, in three of these kirks for many years, viz. at Haroldswick, Balliasta, and Wick. The manse, then at Norwick,. was one mile to the northward of Haroldswick, four to the north- ward of Balliasta, and nine miles to the northward of Wick. A number of stone urns were found in the island of Uyea some years ago, filled with bones and ashes, and deposited beneath a heap of stones and earth. They are supposed to be of Scandinavian origin* Modem Buildinga. — A very neat new church forms a very con- spicuous object, as seen from a vessel entering the Voe or har- bour of Balta Sound, and, with the exception of the school- house, this is the only public building in the parish. Of private buildings a considerable number has been reared within these few years. Mr Edmondston has built a new manor-house at Buness, and two other dwelling-houses in his vicinity ; and at Uyea Sound, Mr Mouat has built a lodge for his own accom- modation, when he visits that part of his property which lies in Uust ; and a range of neat houses along the shores of the har- bour, for dwelling-houses; a shop for merchandise; warehouses; and workshops for a blacksmith, boat-carpenters, and a cooper. The water-mills for grinding corn are the same as they have been for centuries, exceedingly simple, but answering the purpose very well. Every neighbourhood has its own mill, and every farmer is his own miller. The mills are minutely described in the old Sta- tistical Account. III. — Population. There is reason to believe that this island had a numerous uo- 3 UNST. 41 pulation at a very remote period. The vestiges of houses and stone-fencesy now in ruins, and grown over with grass, or buried in moss, are no indistinct indications of this. In former days, the inhabitants had but little intercourse with other countries, and had to depend chiefly on their own resources ; the healing art was little known amongst them, — perhaps not one medical practitioner in the land. In 1729, and again in 1740, the small-pox appeared in Zetland in such a virulent form, and made such havock, almost de- populating some districts, that they are yet spoken of under the name of the mortal pox. Accordingly, we find, that, subsequent to that time, the population was very low ; for, in the year 1755, it consisted only of 1368 souls. From that period, the increase has been steady and rapid. In 1780, it had risen to 1853; in 1700, to 1988; and in 1831, to 2909 souls. Vaccination, which has been resorted to ever since the year 1800, may be assigned as one cause of this great increase. An- other cause may be found in the very favourable seasons this country has enjoyed during the last thirty years. There has been no failure of crops ; the fishing has been successful ; and trade has greatly improved. There are six proprietors of land of the value of L. 50 and up- wards per annum. Much has been said, and much has been written, by men very superficially acquainted with the state of the country, about the wretchedness, the enslaved, and oppressed state of the peasantry. Tliey have had all their information from hearsay, and have not given themselves the trouble to inquire after the truth, where they might have had it impartially stated to them ; and the consequence has been, that they have geen greatly imposed upon, and they, in their turn, have imposed upon others. They who have lived long amongst the people, and are intimately acquainted with their ways and means, and have seen the comforts they enjoy, can bear the most ample testimony to the fact, that there are but few of Her Majes* ty's subjects, of the same class, who are treated in a more kindly and indulgent manner by their superiors ; who enjoy so much li- berty; who pass through life with so little labour or care; or who have more reason to be contented with the situation and cir- cumstances a kind Providence has assigned them. They do not live in affluence ; but they seldom want the necessaries, and they have many of the luxuries of life, with one-half of 42 SHETLAND. the toil that people of their class are doomed to undergo, in more genial climes.* The inhabitants of Unst are remarked for being naturally a shrewd observing people, acute and discerning; and although they have not, until lately, had the advantage of schools, which highly- favoured Scotland has long enjoyed, yet many of them are well in- formed, can read well, and write an excellent hand, and keep ac- counts ; and, in respect of general knowledge, they may compete with those who have had superior opportunities. Their moral and re- ligious character is far from being so high as it could be wished to be. They are just what people generally are in the same circumstances, — some good, some bad ; but, in general, they ap- pear to have a thirst for religious knowledge ; and it is hoped, there are many amongst them who truly fear God. Smuggling was for a long time carried on in this place to a great extent, and was no doubt attended by the evils which naturally accompany that illegal traffic. It has scarcely been heard of, for these last twenty years. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — There are about 2000 imperial acres of arable land in the parish, most part of it yearly under crop. Nearly an equal quantity of meadow and grass land, connected with the arable, remains uncultivated. The meadows produce a considerable quantity of good natural hay ; and on the grass grounds, milch cows are pastured during the summer. The whole of the mea- dow and grass ground might be broken up, and with proper ma- nagement, converted into good corn land, and much of it has, within these few years past, been cultivated, and made to produce very tolerable crops, by some of the more industrious tenantry. But the greater part of the farmers being also fishermen, little at- tention comparatively is paid to agriculture. Indeed, the pursuits of fishing and farming seem to be incompatible with one another, in the same persons. The soil is, in many places, excellent. Un- der a better climate and more skilful management, it would yield the best of crops ; and even with all the disadvantages of climate, and the slovenly manner in which it is cultivated, it yields heavy crops of black oats, bear, and potatoes ; the latter not inferior to those produced in the best districts of Scotland. Some gentlemen since this Account was drawn upi the circumstances of the people have been sad. )y altered. A general failure of the crops, for five or six years in succession, has re- duced them to great poverty, and it must be long, even under the most favourable circumstances; before they can regain their former slate. UN ST. 43 in this island, who have turned their attention to the subject, have raised very fair crops of Angus oats, and have proved that as good turnips, and rye-grass, and clover can be grown here as in any part of the kingdom, and that the climate and soil are peculiarly adapted for such crops. They have vastly improved the appear- ance of the farms under their own immediate management, and made them look like oases in the midst of a barren desert. Most of the farms are, to this day, lying run-rig, and, according to the old system, consist of outfield and infield. The outfield seldom receives any manure. It is turned over with the spade every alternate year, for, since the reduction of the size of the farms, ploughs amongst the tenantry have been wholly laid aside ; yet, notwithstanding of this treatment, the outfield land yields a fair average crop of black oats. The infield, or ground nearest the farm-house, is yearly manured, and on it they raise fine crops of bear and potatoes. If the farms were brought into a more com- pact form, and enclosed, a few of the more active and intelligent might be induced to sow*turnips, and rye-grass, and clover, and thus produce an abundance of nutritious winter provender for their cattle, of which, under the present management, there is often great scarcity. None of the tenants, or but few of them, have leases, not that the land-owners are unwilling to grant them ; such is not the case, but because they are not disposed to take them. Many of them are so restless and fond of change, that they do not choose to bind themselves to remain for a fixed time in one place, and this is often the cause of much annoyance and loss to the proprietors of the soil, for it is not to be supposed that such tenants will take much trouble about the improvement of their land. It is seldom that the land-owners warn a tenant to remove, if he is honest and industrious, and there are many of the most substantial and re- spectable of the tenantry, who are now in the same houses and on the same farms which their fathers and grandfathers occupied before them, and some of them, by their industry, have doubled the ancient extent of their arable land. Many of the tenants have comfortable houses, built solely at the expense of the proprietors, at a cost not under three years rent of the land they occupy. As the extent of the commons or hills and unenclosed ground has never been ascertained by any actual survey, it can only be stated conjecturally. The truth, however, is not exceeded, whe» 44 SHETLAND.- we say that there are 20,000 acres lying in those comnioiis, of ivhich at least 2000 may be capable of improvement ; but as they belong to several different owners, and are undivided, a grievous obstacle is thus in the way of those who might be inclined to make the trial. ttentj WageSf Sfc — The land is let for a fixed money rent The average rent of arable land is about 18s. Sterling per merk, which, arable meadow, and grass, may contain nearly two im- perial acres. The tenants have the privilege of keeping as many cattle, horses, and sheep on the common as they please, without any additional rent being demanded. The summer grazing of a cow or ox is from 8s. to lOs. Sterling, and much the same sum is demanded for winter fodder. Young cattle, sheep, and horses pasture on the open common, and cost the owners nothing. There are but few families in the parish, who require the assist- ance of a man-servant in the management of their farms. For the purpose of accommodating a more numerous body of fisher- men, the farms are now made much smaller than in former times. They consist, on an average, of about six imperial acres arable^ with a due proportion of meadow and grass land ; and there are generally more people in each house, than are necessary for the work of such farms ; but as the young people can be maintained by their parents at home,, and as they are very fond of liberty, they care not much about going to service. In the spring time, every individual who can lift a spade, old and young, male and female, is set to work in the fields, and they very easily and in a short time turn up the soil, and accomplish the labours of the season. Young men are more inclined to go to the Greenland fishing, or to prosecute the ling-fishing at home, than to engage in agricultural labours. When the gentry can prevail on a man to undertake the work of their farms, he is paid about L. 6 Ster- ling per annum and maintained. A woman servant is paid for farm- work, or the management of the dairy, from L. 1, 10s. to Lf. 2 per annum, and is maintained, and receives various perqui- sites besides, which will make up her fee to L. 1 more. Neither men nor women do half of the work that is required at the hands of servants in the south, nor is their labour so productive. Labourers and artisans seldom want employment, and are well paid, and when they are sober and economical they save money, as living to them is comparatively cheap. A good stone-mason UNST. 45 receives from 2s. 6d. to Ss. a day ; inferior workmen, 2s. ; and day labourers, Is. a day. A house-carpenter can earn 2s. 6d. ; a boat's carpenter, as much ; a tailor, 2s. ; and a shoemaker. Is. 6d. a day. The rates at Lerwick may be somewhat different, and in some cases higher. Live-stock. — The breed of sheep, black-cattle, and horses, with a few exceptions, which cannot be mentioned as improvements, is much the same as it has been for time immemorial. The native breed is most suitable for the country and climate, and under pro- per management, would be by far the most valuable. The cows, for their size, are excellent milkers, and their milk is of the very richest quality. The sheep, when attended to properly, carry re- markably fine wool, and their mutton is highly prized for its deli* cacy and flavour. But, what is the concern of a great number is the concern of nobody, and as the cattle go at large and feed pro- miscuously on the commons, no attention is paid to their breed, and, the consequence is, they are degenerating fast. This is re- markably the case with the fine, lively, sagacious, and active breed of native ponies. They are now much smaller in size than they were thirty years ago, entirely owing to the fact, that all the best and stoutest are exported, and stallions of the most puny size are allowed to go at large. Quarries and Mines. — Chromate of iron, discovered on this island by Professor Jameson, and afterwards found in large quan- tities by Dr Hibbert, in the course of his mineralogical survey, has been raised and carried to market in its crude state in considerable quantity, for which a very fair price was at first realized ; but of late, it has been discovered in Norway and in other places, and the free importation of it being allowed, the price now offered is very low. There are also limestone quarries at Cliff and in the neighbour- hood of Balliasta. The tenants of those districts are allowed to work the quarries, and to manufacture the stone into lime on their own account. The lime is usually sold at the rate of one shilling per barrel, and becomes a source of considerable emolument to those who engage in the work. Fisheries. — This is the most important branch of industry in Zetland, and which the men prosecute with much spirit and skill ; and although often exposed to the most imminent danger, on a rough and boisterous sea, and although many valuable lives are often lost in this hazardous pursuit, (as was the case in 1832, when seventeen boats with their crews, five of them belonging to this pa- 46 SHETLAND. rish, were ovetliaken by a dreadful storm, and buried in the sea,) yeiy with undaunted courage, they launch out in their small open skiffs, to a distance of thirty or forty miles from the shore, and appear to be more in their element when so employed, than in any other occupation. Their boats are now built somewhat larg- er than they were in former days. They measure from IS to 22 feet in length of keel, with six men in each, and they carry from 60 to 100 ground lines, each 42 fathoms in length, with hooks fastened to them by a smaller line, of about 3 feet in length, and at the distance of 5 fathoms from each other. The boats and lines are either furnished by the fishermen, at their own expense, or hired out to them, by the land-owners, or others, who purchase their fish in a green state, and cure them for the market. When the fishing is successful, they may average from 80 to 100 cwt, for which they receive, from 5s. to 6s., and sometimes as high as 7s. per cwt. Ling, cod, and tusk, and seath or coal* fish, were long the only fish which were considered marketable, and of these great numbers were caught, salted and dried, and sent to Spain, Ireland, and to Leith, and sold at from L. 12 to L. 22 per ton, for ling and tusk ; and from L. 9. to L. 12 for cod and seath. Immense shoals of herrings, annually, visit the coasts of Zetland, and every summer for a long series of years, the Dutch have fitted out a great num- ber of busses, which have appeared in swarms, in the harbours and along the shores of Zetland, and remained in the undisturbed pos- session of the herring fishery, to the great emolument of their 'country. It never entered into the minds of the Zetlanders, that they might with the greatest ease come in for a share of their gain?, until within these few years, when some public spirited gentlemen have exerted themselves to rouse their countrymen to n sense of their own interests, and to engage in that lucrative branch of industry. The herring-fishery is now fairly begun, and proinises to be a source of great additional wealth to the people. The land-owners^ in general, furnish nets, which they either hire out to the fisher- men, or advance to them, at prime cost, to be paid for from the proceeds of the fish, within a time limited by agreement* They also provide casks, and salt, and take upon themselves the whole expense and risk of curing, and sending the herrings to market. The fishermen are paid so much per cran, and as there is a good deal of competition, they are sure of the highest price that can be afforded. The amount of fish cured and marked by the fishery officer in the year 1831 was as under : UNST. 47 Amount of ling, tusk, and cod-fidi exported from Unst, which may be considered a fair average, 190 tons at L. 17, . L. 3230 Seath or eoal-fish, 20 tons at L. 9, . . . .. 180 840 barrels of herring would nett, . . . . • 504 Add to this fish of all kinds used by the inhabitants as food, at an ave- rage less than 4d., per diem, each person, , . . 2000 Total, L.59I4 Produce of Land. — The amount of produce raised annually in this parish, consisting of com, potatoes, turnips, cabbages, hay, grazing of cattle, sheep, and horses, and swine, together with fowls, ®ggs, &c may be averaged at L. 4 Sterling, per acre, or merk of cultivated ground, or somewhat above L. 8000 Sterling per an- num. Manufactures. — Articles of woollen . hosiery, chiefly consisting of stockings and gloves, are the principal manufacture in this pa- rish. They are knit by the females, and are highly prized for their softness and the beauty of their texture. The demand for Zetland hosiery is not nearly so great now as formerly ; yet the quantity sold is still very considerable. Stockings vary in price from Is. to 10s. per pair, (a few pairs of extraordinary flneness are sold for L.2 per pair), and gloves from Is. to 10s., or even sometimes as high as 15s. per pair. The only other manufacture of any account is a coarse kind of woollen cloth, which is dyed blue, black, or red, according to fancy, and constitutes a considerable part of the daily wear of both men and women. V. — Parochial Economy. The only market-town in Zetland is Lerwick, at least forty miles distant from this parish by sea. Cattle are driven by land to be sold there, at very considerable expense, and with great toil, through bleak swampy mossy hills, without any trace of a road or bridge, and they have also to be transported in boats, over two sounds or arms of the sea, where the tide runs with extreme rapidity, and renders the passage uncertain and dangerous. When the inhabitants are disposed to sell any other part of their produce at Lerwick, theji carry it thither in their own boats, and bring back with them such necessaries as their families stand in need of, and they can afford to purchase. Until about the year 1820, this was the only mode of communi- cation betwixt Unst and Lerwick, where the general po5t-o(fice is established, and all letters and newspapers coming from the southward had to remain there, to wait any opportunity that might occur, unless when it was found expedient to dispatch an express, at a considerable expense. To remedy this inconveni- 4S SHETLAND. ence experienced by all, some gentlemen residing in Lerwick, in the year 1820, entered into an agreement to engage a man to travel as post betwixt Lerwick and this place, and to call at se- veral intermediate stations, and to carry all such letters and papers as might be committed to his charge. People residing in the country parishes have some agent, or friend in Lerwick, who re- ceives their letters from the general post-oflBce, and puts them into the hands of the person who is appointed to make up the mail for the landward districts, where there are receiving-houses conveni- ently situated. This plan has been found to answer extremely well. The post travels twice a-week, and greatly adds to the comfort of this remote parish and other parts of the country.* Fences in general are of a very inferior kind. A ring fence, of turf and stone intermingled, about three feet high, surrounds townships, of from 80 to 100 merks of land, often belonging to different proprietors. Within this fence there are from 12 to 40 small farms, for the most part lying run-rig ; and the consequence of this mode of division is, that the tenants oannot, if they had the inclination, raise crops of ryegrass and turnips, because it is not in their power to protect them firom the cattle. The land-owners have good sufficient stone fences around their own farms, and they have them also subdivided into enclosures of six or seven acres «ach, and are thus enabled to have a judicious rotation of crops. They are now beginning to see the inconvenience to their tenants of the old system, and are having their farms laid in one spot, with the view, it is hoped, of enclosing them. Indeed, the work of en- closing has been going on, in a very spirited manner, for the last three years ; and although this cannot be converted into an agricul- tural country — the pursuits of the people, as 6shermen, the vari- ableness of the climate, and the want of good markets for any ex- tra produce, being insurmountable obstacles in the way, — ^yet there is good hope that such improvements may be effected, as will meet the demands of an increasing population, and enable the people to procure for themselves many additional comforts. Balta Sound, on the middle of the east coast, and Uyea Sound, at the south end of the island, (already mentioned,) are much frequent- ed harbours, and as good, and of as easy access, as any in the king- dom. It is much to be regretted, that there is no lighthouse to direct distressed mariners to their entrance. Such a work is as necessary on the north, as it has been found to be on the south extremity of There is now a Goyernment penny post, established in place of this pmate ar- rangement.— 1841 . UN ST. 49 Zetland. Many a vessel tossed on the north sen, and in dark and stormy nights ready to be dashed against our rocks, would hail with joy the appearance of a light, by which they might be guid- ed to a safe place of refuge — and many valuable lives, and many a valuable cargo would thus be saved. There are two places where such an erection might be made, for the benefit of all vessels coming from the north and east, viz. Lambaness, a long projecting head- land which forms the north side of the bay of Norwick in Unst, and Strandiburgh in the Island of Fetlar. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is as nearly as possi- ble m the middle of the island, distant six miles from the northern and southern extremities, and one and a-half from the eastern and western. It was built from the foundation, at a small distance from the old church of Balliasta in 1825. li is a handsome, substantial, well-finished, and commodious place of worship, and does great honour to the heritors who erected it, at the ex- pense of about L. 2000 Sterling. It has accommodation for 1200 souls, with a sufficient number of free sittings for the poor. There is at present no manse in the parish. The incumbent lives in a house of his own, and receives an allowance from the he- ritors in lieu of a manse, and with this arrangement all concerned are well satisfied. The glebe is at Norwick, about four miles to the northward of the church. It consists of 14 imperial acres of very good land, and, although let to a tenant considerably lower, is worth L.9 Ster- ling per annum. The tithes are valued, and the stipend, which is paid by the he- ritors, including communion elements, amounts to L.249 Sterling. A small chapel was lately built by a few Independents, and another by the Wesleyan Methodists near Norwick. They have no stated ministers, but are occasionally visited by some preachers of their own persuasion, who are paid by their respective Societies. About 487 families, comprehending an examinable population of nearly 1900 souls, attend the Established Church, two-thirds of which it is found to accommodate sufficiently, on all ordinary occasions. The people, in general, attend well. When the wea- ther is favourable, the church is full. The number of communi- cants is generally from 1 150 to 1200. The number of Indepen- dents in this parish, is 15; of Wesleyan Methodists, 25. Church collections average about L. 30 per annum. Education. — There are only two schools in this parish, — a pa* SHETLAND. I> 50 SHETLAND. « rochial school near the church, and a school on the General As^ sembly's scheme at Norwick. The branches taught at these schools are, English, redding, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, and navi- gation. The parochial schoolmaster's salary is the maximum. The school fees are about L. 6 per annum : but the school being situ- ated in a very populous district, a more efficient schoolmaster would double that amount. The Assembly's schoolmaster has L.25 Sterling of salary; and his school fees may vary from L.10 to L. 12. There are no persons in the parish from six to fifteen years of age, who cannot read a little. But there are still a few aged people who cannot read. The north and mid parishes of this ministry are now well sup- plied with schools, which are within reach of the whole popula- tion, and well attended, the Assembly's school especially, which is full to overflowing, and is accounted by the people a great blessing. Yet there is still a large part of the population in a most deplo- rable state for the want of schools. The south-east, south, and south-west parts of the island, with a population of at least 1200 souls, are at the distance of from four to six miles from the parish school, separated from the mid-parish, where it is situated, by a long dreary hill ; and the people have no means for the education of their children, unless when they can occasionally engage some young man, during the winter quarter, who has been educated at tiie parochial or Assembly's school, to undertake the charge. Two additional schools, one at the south-east, and another at the south-west part of the parish, are greatly wanted, and loudly called for. The people about Uyea Sound, and Sandwick and Muness, are, many of them, exceedingly anxious about the edu- cation of their children. In that district, were a school established, 100 children could easily attend it; and surely in the present en- lightened times, it is sad to think that so many young creatures should be deprived of the means of instruction.* Library. — In the year 1823, a parochial library was established, under the direction of the present incumbent. It is supported by a subscription of Is. yearly, paid by each member ; and as many * Since this was written, a school-bouse bus been built in the proposed locality, chiefly at the expense of the late William Mouat, Esq. of OarCh, by whose lamented death the cause of education in these islands has been deprived of one of its warmest and most generous friends. A salnry has been granted and a teacher appointed by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. The people on the west side of the island are sUll lamentably destitute of the means of education for their children. UN ST. 5 1 of the parishioners as choose, have it in their power to become members at any time. It has succeeded very well, and consists of about 300 volumes of religious and historical books. Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are about 70 poor peo- ple constantly on the roll. They receive from 6s. to 10s. per annum, to help to purchase clothes. They are lodged and victualled by a certain number of the people, fixed upon by the kirk-session, who keep them in their houses a certain number of days, in rotation, in proportion to the number of merks of land they occupy; and they are generally well treated. Some of the poor have small houses built for them by their friends, in which they live, and the people amongst whom they are quartered* send in to them part of such provisions as they have for themselves, and, in this respect, they shew much kindness, for we seldom hear that the poor are in want of necessary food. The ordinary church collections amount to about Lf.dO per annum, and a demand for an extraordinary contribution does not frequently occur. But when it does, and a collection is called for in aid of any individual case of distress, it is as liberal as could be looked for, considering the circumstances of the people, and no other mode of procuring funds for the support of the poor has hi* therto been found necessary. It is, however, much to be regretted, that there appears no disposition among the poor to refrain from seeking parochial relief. So far from considering it degrading, they express the greatest earnestness to. have their names placed upon the roll, when they have the slightest pretence for mailing the re- quest, and when a ^^ quarter" becomes vacant, by the death of a pauper, there are always immediate applications for it It is hoped, that, as the minds of the people become more enlarged by a Christian education, they will assume a more independent spirit. PubliC'Housesy Sfc. — There is no house in this parish which can be properly called an inn ; but the kindness and hospitality of the people are such, that a stranger can never be at a loss, and there are two houses in the neighbourhood of Uyea Sound, kept by shop-keep- ers, where wayfaring men will find very comfortable lodgings. There are seven licensed retailers of spirits, ale and porter, in this island. Some of these are of too respectable characters, to allow of any im- proprieties in their houses; but there are others who retail liquors, and some of them without license, who are a nuisance in their neigh- * That district or number of liouses, fixed upon l>y the kirk-scssion. for the main* tenance of a pauper, is called a *' quarter.** 52 SHETLAND. bourhood, and who use every art to engage the young men in drinking to the great injury of their morals, and the waste of their substance. The population, with a few exceptions, is in general sober, yet the quantity of ardent spirits exhausted in the parish, was some years ago very great, equalling in value one-half of the •rent of the island. There is now a great change. The institu- tion of a Temperance Society in November 1831, has produced a very happy effect. The quantity of liquors now exhausted in the parish, is less than the half of what it formerly was.* Fuel. — Peats from the bills of Valleyfield and Saxa Vord, are the only article of fuel used by the tenantry, and are procured by many at no small labour and expense, especially on the east side of the island, where peat-moss is completely exhausted. Besides the labour of cutting and drying them, the people are obliged to em- ploy from eight to ten horses, for the space of five or six weeks, every summer, to carry them home, and these must be attended by a person to put on the loads, and one or two boys to drive the horses. Most of the gentry use a considerable quantity of English coal. Miscellaneous Observations. Very considerable changes have taken place here, since the last Statistical Accountwas published, some of which have been glanced at in the course of the foregoing observations. The farms are now smaller, and more adapted for a population of fishermen, whose avocations allow them but little time for farm-work, and who have but very little inclination for it. They are, however, sufficiently large to supply them with meal, potatoes, cabbages, &c. ; apd to enable them to keep a sufficient number of milch cows, horses, sheep, and some pigs ; and they have at all times an abundant supply of the best fish, both for family use and for the market. Favourable seasons and successful fishings have placed many of them in easy circumstances, and enabled them to indulge in the luxury of tea, formerly little known among them, but now used in the greater number of families twice every day. In consequence of the reduction of the size of the farms, ploughs have entirely disappeared from amongst the tenantry. That im- plement of husbandry is now only employed on the farms of the * Since this statement was drawn up, a society has been formed in this parish, baseil on the principle of total abstinence from all intoxicating liquors, and which already numbers upwards of 350 members. Two of the most extensive spirit-dealers in the parish have wholly abandoned the traffic, from conscientious convictions of its im- propriety ; and it is hoped the icst will 8oon be led to adopt the same course. NESTING. 53 gentry, and is of the same construction with the ploughs used in the south country. The old Zetland plough has now yielded to the spade, and is nowhere to be seen. In this island, far removed from a market-town, great or rapid improvements in agriculture are not to be expected. It is well adapted for a population whose chief employment is fishing, and who hold their small farms as cheap places of abode, and for fur- nishing them with various comforts, which they could not have, if they had only their fishing to depend upon. Yet improvements are silently going on, and considerable quantities of ground are, from year to year, added to the old arable land. If the com- mons were divided, and the improvable parts inclosed, from time to time, as the population increases, portions of them would be willingly taken at a low rent and cultivated by tenants; and this is the only way in which improvements could be prudently made in this place. To attempt speculations in agriculture here, on a large scale, would be the height of folly. Revised May 1841. PARISH OF NESTING. PUESBYTERY OF BURRAVOE, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. THE REV. JOHN M'GOWAN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The parish consists of the three parishes of Nesting, Lunasting, and Whalsay ; and to these are annexed the detached islands of Skerries. Extent. — If the whole land of the parish were thrown together, its average length would be froni 18 to 20 miles, and average breadth 4. Boundaries. — Nesting is bounded on the east by the Island of Whalsay, with the Skerrie Islands adjacent ; by Catfirth Voe on the south ; and by Delting on the west. Geology. — The predominating rock in this parish is gneiss. Pri- mitive limestone, mica-slate, syenite, and granite veins occur in subordinate quantity. In the out Skerries there are beds of pri- mitive limestone associated with gneiss. 54 SHETLAND. 11. — Civil History. Parochial RegUtera.— There are registers of births and mar- riages, but not of deaths. These registers were very irregularly kept till 1827 ; and the Dissenters do not register, except those who have been married and baptised by the parochial minister. Land'aumers.—T\ie principal land-owners are, Robert Bruce, Esq. Simbister, and Miss Robina Hunter of Lunna. These pos- sess nearly the whole parish. Mansiof^House.—Ii splendid house and offices have been built in Whalsay by Mr Bruce of Simbister. The building is of gra- nite, and cost L. 20,000. The stone was imported across the Sound of Whalsay. III. — Population. Amountof popuUtionin 180l» - l^tti 1811, - 1866 1821, - 2005 1881, - 2108 The population of the three parishes is supposed to be at pre- sent 2250. During the last three years, only one case of illegitimate birth occurred. This parish contains a greater number of inhabitants, in pro- portion to the rental land, than any other in Shetland, owing to the exertions of the two principal heritors in making outsets, or new settlements, on grounds formerly uncultivated. IV. — Industry. The extent of arable land in the parish is supposed to be about 1000 acres. All the rest is waste or in pasture. The whole land is undivided, and common to the tenants of the two principal proprietors. No wood. Rent — The average rent of land per merk is L. 1. No progress in the wretched agriculture of the parish, has been made during the last fifty years. The people direct their sole attention to fish- ing, and consider the cultivation of the lands as only a secondary object. Fisheries — The inhabitants adventure in what we call the great fisheries of ling, cod, and tusk ; but the principal part of their subsistence arises from the small fishing of piltock and sillock, which, except in very extraordinary years, they can pursue at no expense, and with great advantage, all the year round. There are fourteen or sixteen herring boats belonging to Mr Bruce, and about seven to Mr Hunter. Mr Bruce*s average NESTING. 55 fishing amounts to 2000 barrels per annum, and Mr Hunter's is in proportion. Ling and cod, and tusk-6shing, called the Haaf Fish- cry, commences in the beginning of June, and continues till July and August. Tlie produce is sent to Leith. The greater part of the male population is concerned in fishing ; — and many men go to the Greenland whale fishery. * V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State, — There are three churches, viz. at Nesting, Whalsay, and Lunnasting. The church at Nesting is made for the accommodation of the whole population at sacrament. Sker- ries Church is sixteen miles distant from the mainland, and the minister preaches there only once a-year. Whalsay is visited by him eleven times in the year, and Lunnasting eleven times also. It was intended that the Whalsay church should have been en- dowed as a Parliamentary church ; but, unfortunately, this ad- vantage was not obtained* Lunnasting Church has been newly repaired, and the seating is good. Whalsay Church has been newly roofed ; but the seating is not good or comfortable. The parish church of Nesting was built in 1794, and is in a tolerable state of repair. The whole population belongs to the Sstablished Church, ex- cept thirty individuals^ who are Methodists, Baptists, or Indepen- dents. Stipend L. 1 50 ; of which sum L. 69 are received from Exche- quer. The extent of the glebe is twelve merks and a half. The manse was built in 1770. It was lately repaired, but again needs repair. Education. — There is one parochial, and two adventure schools. Three more are required. Education is, in this parish, at the lowest ebb. The parish schoolmaster's salary is L.25 per annum, and his fees do not exceed L. 2 or L. 3. Poor. — Average number of paupers yearly on the permanent roll for the three years 1835-36-37, 25. Average yearly amount of church collections for these years, L.14, 2s. Id. Mortcloth dues, &c. L.1, 8s. * Seventeen boats perished in 1892 ; seven of which beloDg«V SHETLAND. THE REV. JOHN TURNBULL, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Boundaries. — This parish, consisting of the united parishes of Tingwall, Whiteness, and Weesdale, is bounded on the north, by the sea, and the parishes of Nesting and Delting ; on the west, by the sea, and the parish of Sandsting ; on the south, by the sea and QuariT; on the east, by Lerwick and Gulberwick. Lerwick was disjoined from Tingwall, and erected into a separate parish, in 1701. Sound and Gulberwick were disjoined from Tingwall in 1722, and annexed to the parish of Lerwick. Extent. — Tingwall is in length, from north to south, from 12 to 14 miles. Whiteness lies to the west of Tingwall, and is in lenc[th from 5 to 6 miles. Weesdale is to the north-west of White- ness, and from 6 to 7 miles in length. II. — Civil History. Ancient Remains. — There are many tumuli, where the Scandi- navians had buried their dead. In those which were lately opened, earthen urns of various sizes were discovered, containing calcined bones. Steinbartes or stone axes, called here thunder-bolts, are frequently found, also axrow-heads. There are also the remains of a very great many Roman Catholic chapels. Tingwall was formerly an archdeaconry. Most of the church lands in it were made over by Sir Jerome Cheyne, the Popish Archdeacon of Tingwall, to his nephew, and remained in the fa- mily, without, I believe, ever being challenged. In 1592, when Presbyterianism was established in Scotland, Tingwall was the seat of, and gave name to, the Shetland Pres- bytery ; the meetings of which were afterwards removed to Scal- loway. While the Shetland Islands remained under the Danish crown^ the Foud or chief magistrate resided here. 60 SHETI.AND. At a small holm in the Loch of Tingwall, the assize was held, and the judgments of the other courts (Gula Thing) were revised.* On a hill at a little distance, is the place where the last sentence of the law was inflicted on the condemned. After these islands came under the Scottish Crown, this court was removed to Seal- bway. The last who suffered there, were Barbara TuUoch, and her daughter, Ellen King, who were condemned for the crime of witchcraft, and put to death in a cruel manner in the beginning of the eighteenth century. Scalloway is the only village in the parish. It was anciently the capital of Shetland, and a burgh. The name is said to sig- nify the harbour beside the mansion bouses, — Scalla signifying bouse, and way, or more properly vie^ a roadstead. Some sup- pose it to have been Scallavicky the little harbour. In this village most of the Shetland gentlemen bad residences. And even in the recollection of some old people, the Sinclairs of House, (descen- dants of the St Clairs of Caithness,) Mitchells of Westshore, Scotts of Giblesta, Umphrays of Asta and Berry, Mitchells of Girlsta, Dicks of Fracafield, Dicks of Warmadale, Mowbrays, &C. had houses in Scalloway. The only gentleman in the village now is Mr Scott of Scalloway. The castle of Scalloway, a fine old ruin, stands to the east of the village. It was built in 1600, by Earl Patrick Stewart. Great oppressions and heavy burdens were imposed upon the people during the erection of this edifice. The village has increased much of late, and is chiefly supported by the fishing. Ancient History, — St Ninian is said to have introduced Christ- ianity into Shetland ; but it did not generally prevail until 995. These islands were in a very unsettled state (being frequently taken by Scotch pirates, and retaken by the Danes,) until King Harold, in 776, took possession of Shetland, Orkney, and the Western Isles. Hacon Adlestain introduced the Gula Thing law into Shetland. After King Harold was slain at Stamford Bridge, in 1067, his son visited Shetland, &c. and, with the consent of Adlebert, Archbishop of Bremen, established bishops in all these islands. After his return to Norway, in 1672, he granted to the merchants of his new city of Bergen the sole right of trading with the islands, excepting that 360 cwts. of wool were annually ex- ported for the use of the Archbishop of Bremen and his clergy. • Isldiui Law, as the highest courts were held in islands. TINGWALL, WHITENESS, AND WEESDALE. Gl In 1-269, King Henry of England entered into a commercial treaty with King Magnus Lagabetter of Norway. Englishmen were sent to inquire into the state of the islands, their extent, produce, &c. It is supposed they also divided the land into merks. In 1*271, Shetland was separated from Orkney, and united to Faroe. They had had the same Foud and Lagamand who resid- ed at Scalloway. They had between them nine bishops. ♦ By a treaty of 1470, Shetland was pledged to the Crown of Scothmd ; and from that period, the original inhabitants were most grievously oppressed by tyrants, from time to time, sent over by the Scottish Crown. At the time of the transfer, all the property in. Shetland was held by Udal tenure, (descending from father to son without any written documents,) paid no fees, and owned no superior. About 1664, Douglas of Spynie, factor for Lord Gran- dison, compelled many of the simple udallers to take out feu-char- ters for their lands. Very few of the descendants of the Norwe- gians now possess lands in Shetland. There are still a few in Dun- rossness and Cunningsburgh. For a century before the islands were transferred to the Scottish Crown, the St Clairs of Caithness possessed a very large share of the Shetland property, which their descendants enjoyed until a late period. In 1530, the islanders were so oppressed by James, Earl of Moray, that, simple and yielding as they were, they rose in arms against his factor, and the Crown was compelled to revoke the charter granted to him of the lands belonging to it in Shetland. In 1561, Queen Mary, importuned by Lord Robert Stewart, her natural brother, made a grant to him of all the Crown lands in Orkney and Shetland. After her unfortunate connexion with Bothwell, she revoked the grant given to Lord Robert Stewart, and conferred it on her husband. On Bothwell's forfeiture, the lands again reverted to the Crown, and Lord Robert Stewart gained possession of them ; but, owing to his cruelty to the inha- bitants, he was deprived of them, and confined for six months in the palace of Linlithgow. But, in 1581, his interest at Court procured for him a new grant of the Earldom; he was also ap- pointed Justiciar, with power to convoke and dissolve the Law- taings. He forfeited the grant in 1585. In 1 587, Sir John Maitland obtained a grant of the islands, re- venues, &c. ; but, having resigned. Lord Robert Stewart prevaiU • For much of the above information I am indebted to the Rev, Mr Schroter of Faroe. G2 SHETLAND. ed on King James to confer them on him; and, in IGOO, Earl Patrick obtained a new grant of them, lived at Scalloway, built the castle, and grievously oppressed the inhabitants, doing all in his power to pre\'ent their complaints reaching the ears of Govern- ment In 1608, however, they made known their grievances to Parliament, which, in 1612, revoked the charter, and annexed the Lordship to the Crown. Two years afterwards. Earl Patrick, who justly merited punishment for his cruelty to the Shetlanders, was put to death for high treason. He had the power of life and death over the inhabitants of these islands, fined them, and confiscated their property at his pleasure. He assessed the country in money, provisions, and personal labour. He also feued lands he had seiz- ed firom the poor udallers ; and these, with scatt and other bur- dens then imposed, together with the Crown lands, form the re- venue of the Earldom in Shetland. In 1614, Sir James Stewart of Ochiltree farmed the Crown pro\>erty ; but he being also guilty of the greatest oppression was deprived of it. In 1624, Sir George Hay was appointed Farmer- General and Steward of the islands. He, too, oppressed the poor Shetland- ers ; and the lordship was again annexed to the Crown by act of Parliament. In the reign of Charles I. the Earl of Morton obtained a wad- set of the Lordship of Shetland and Earldom of Orkney for the sum of L.dO,000, said to have been advanced his Majesty by him. This deed was ratified by act of Parliament. No attention was paid to it during the Commonwealth ; but, at the Restoration, Viscount Grandison, as trustee for the Morton family, obtained a grant of the property and revenues belonging to the Crown in Shelland and Orkney. In 1641, the alleged debt due the Earl of Morton was discharg- ed, and the Lordship of Shetland and Earldom of Orkney were to remain inseparably annexed to the Crown. During the reign of Queen Anne, however, on account of the active part taken by James Earl of Morton in bringing about the Union between Eng- land and Scotland, he obtained a new grant in the form of a wad- set, redeemable for the old sum of L.30,000. In 1742, the Earl of Morton obtained an irredeemable right to the lands, on condition of improving the islands. He was to drain marshes, build harbours, promote the fisheries, and improve the TINGWALL, WHITENESS, AND WEESDALE. 63 agriculture. These conditions, however, have never been ful- filled. In 1776, Lord Morton sold his lands and casualties in Shetland to Sir Laurence Dundas, the ancestor of the present E^rl of Zet* land, for the sum of L.66,000. Burdens. — There were many burdens imposed on Shetland, such as scatt, wattle, sheep, and oxpcnny. Although it is main- tained that scatt was the Danish land-tax, yet, until lately, it was never levied, when the lands were not under cultivation ; but, in a process before the Court of Session in 1829, this casual payment was made a feu. Scatt varies on the merk from 4d. to Is. 6d., those farms or rooms having a right to a large common paying more than those not having such a privilege. The scatt was for- merly paid in butter and oil. The Shetland proprietors have also to pay the British land tax. The wattle was a tax imposed on every family, paid in barley to the foud or bailie. It is said to have had its origin from presents made to a pious lady, sent over by the Bishop of Orkney to bless the pastures, in order to the in- crease of the flocks. It is now included in the scatt Sheep and oxpenny had their origin from a certain number of sheep and oxen furnished for the governor's table from every parish.* It was also paid in butter and oil. It, too, is now included in the scatt. The feus were also paid in butter. All these butter payments were made in merks and lispunds. The lispund was formerly 15 lbs. ; but, in a process lately before the Court of Session, it was made 30 lbs. Tron, or 32 lbs. Avoirdupois-f By a late act of Parliament, the Earl of Zetland (then Lord Dundas) obtained leave to dispose of his feus, scatt, &c., which have almost all been bought up by the Shetland heritors. Lcnid Rent — The land mails or rents were anciently paid- in woodmail,! afterwards converted into money and butter. The merks land were rated at 6 penny, 12 penny, &c. The J 2 penny paid 16s. and 16 lbs. butter. The tenant also paid the teinds in kind, now converted into money.§ They also paid one fowl for every house or reek " to feed his Majesty's hawks." This claim * First granted as a corapliincnt to Bothwell, when he took refuge in Shetland aft or his marriage with Queen Mary. f See Pundlcr process. :{: Woodmail, or mill, (cloth payment) was a strong woollen cloth made in Shet- land, valued at 2s. per guUding. There are six cuttles or Scotch ells in one guilding. § The Bishop of Orkney formerly drew one-half of all the corn tcind in Shetland, except in the parish of Tingwall, the Archdeacon having the whole of the teinds parsonage and vicarage. C4 SHETLAND. has again been set up t)y her Majesty's Falconer for Scotland, but resisted by theShetlandgentlemen,andaprocessin regard to it is now depending before the Court of Session. Formerly, when leases were granted^ a sum was advanced by the lessee, termed a grassum^ or entry money, in order that the lands might be kept at their old rent. In addition to the land rent, every tenant was obliged to pay one fowl per merk to his landlord, to deliver his tish to him at a certain price ; and whatever produce of his farm he had to dispose of, had 6rst to be offered to him. The landlord in return always supported his tenant in years of scarcity. Rents are now paid in money. Until lately, great attention was paid to the division of scathold. The bailie, or chief magistrate, went along the marches, accom- panied by some of the most respectable people of each parish, who were well acquainted with the division, and with them some young boys, on whom they bestowed a good flogging at particular places* in order that they might remember the marches ; after which, they received some little reward. I have heard some old people who were present, describe what took place at these ridings of the marches, called " riding the Hagra." They also paid great attention to the sheep-flocks, which con- stituted their chief wealth. They had large stone inclosures in all their pastures. They made a coarse warm cloth of the wool, which is still done by those who have any sheep. In 1 797, the sheep- flock in this parish was computed at 10,000. It docs not now amount to 1000. The want of them is very much felt. 1 1 1. — Population. ion in ]755, . 1412 1806, . . 1997 1821, . . 2d09 1831, . . 2797 1896, . . 3188 IV. — Industry Soil and Produce, — This parish lies in parallel straths, from north-cast to south-west. The soil is generally a light-brown, black loam, or moorish. Each strath has a bed of primitive blue limestone, interspersed with quartz. The subsoil of most of the peaty ground, has a crust of iron ore impervious to water, and which at first resists the plough. After some years' cultivation, however, this ferruginous substance yields to the plough. The subsoil can then be turned up and mixed with the moss, greatly improving the soil. I have not found the iron ore so hurtful to veiretation as might have been supposed. But wherever there is a chalybeate TINQWALL, WHITENESS, AND WEESDALE. 65 spring, it requires to be drained ; for when it runs over the soil, it renders it unproductive. The subsoil of most of the meadows is blue till, mixed with small stones. This is even found under the beds of marl. The hills on the east side of Tingwall parish are composed of clay slate, and micaceous schistus, and appear capable of cultivation ; those on the west side do not appear so capable. Whenever the moss on them is cut, the whole sur&ce is covered with large stones of coarse granite and gneiss. Near Rova Head, on the north-east part of Tingwall parish* Sir Arthur Nicolson, Bart, has discovered a field of fine blue slate, which promises to be of great benefit to the country ; the gray slate, in use at present, soon splitting when exposed to sua and air. In some of the meadows, there are quantities of fine shell marl, which answers well as a manure, especially for green crops. The want of inclosures is much felt : cattle injuring the crops, and poaching the land in the winter time. In some places, bow* ever, there are good stone inclosures. An improved system of agriculture has been introduced, and fa many places a regular rotation of crops followed. The commoa rotation is, U^year, turnips and potatoes; 2^, big barley, with grass seeds ; Qdy hay ; 4thy pasture ; bthj oats. The potato is cultivated to a large extent, and in ordinary seasons, Lerwick and Scalloway are supplied from Tingwall parish. The potatoes are planted in drills, horsc-hoed, and when taken up, put into pits du* ring winter. Turnips grow well. The red and green tops and Swedish are tried ; but the yellow are preferred. The barley ia use is the four and six-sided big. The two-sided has been tried, •but does not answer. It is some weeks later in ripening, not so productive, and nuire easily injured by the wind. Wheat and rye have been attempted, but do not answer, owing to the want of sun. Pease do well, unless when we are visited by early frosts, but are little cultivated. Flax and hemp have also been reared, and grow luxuriantly, but the people do not know how to manage them when pulled. The old ono'sided plough is still in use. In some parts, the Rotheram, or Smairs plough is in noore general use, drawn by two horses ; if they are small, assisted by two oxen. Close cartf are also much used. The land is in many places cultivated by the spade. The method of making hay is much improved. It is in general SHETLAND. S 66 SHETLAND. spread out as soon as mown, and before night put up in cocks. This method is continued for a few days, when it is led home, by which means the natural juices and nutritious properties are pre- served, as well as the fine smell. A little salt is often mixed with it, when building. Meadows. — The meadows and boggy land arise from springs of water issuing from higher land and running through crevices in the limestone. These meadows produce a quantity of coarse grass, which is made into hay for fodder for the cattle in winter. From these wet grounds, as well as from stagnant waters, there arises a mildew, whenever a slight frost takes place, especially on the fall of a north wind during the summer or autumn seasons. This exhalation or ground-fog is frequently seen to arise from these bogs like the smoke of so many fires, until, uniting, it forms one dense cloud over all the damp ground. It instantly destroys vegetation. The potato crop, in particular, is ruined whenever it reaches it. Not only do the stems soon wither, but the poi- sonous matter seems to descend into the bulbs, which renders Ihem.so unpalatable, that some seasons even the swine will not eat them. For the last four years, the crops in all our valleys, at a little distance from the sea, have been ruined by early frosts, accompanied by mildews. The crops within the vortex of the cloud on the lower ground, are often completely destroyed, while the upper part of the same field remains unharmed. The oats and barley, under the influence of the mildew, assume a dirty white appearance. The advantages of draining are fully experienced. It is carried on in a very sufficient manner by Mr Hay, on his property at Lax- firtlf and other places. But it is not to be expected that tenants, without either capital or leases, are to follow his example. And until bogs are drained, and the stagnant water carried off, the saving of the crops must always remain precarious. Considerable quantities of waste land have lately been brought into cultivation ; some by the tenants themselves. It was for- merly the practice for the landlord to mark out a piece on the common, and assign it to a tenant, who, on condition of bringing it under crop, had it for seven years rent free. But it was seldom the tenant could drain, trench, and inclose it properly. It has been the practice here, as in all other parishes of Shet- land, to cut up the best soil in the common, carrying it home either for manure, or to spread under the cattle in the byre. By TINGWALL, WHITENESS, AND WEE8DALE. 67 this destructive practice, the best pasture in the country is not- only injured, but in many places completely destroyed. This system has been put a stop to by some of the heritors; but unless they will all unite, the evil will not cease. It is distressing thus to see the best pasture completely destroyed ; and no sooner does the grass begin to spring than the ground is immediately robbed of its new surface; and this continues until the whole soil is either carried away by the tenants, or washed away by the winter rains* Roads, — Roads are now so good in some places, that carts can drive on them. But they are yet in their infancy ; and the want of them is a great bar to all improvements. There are excellent > roads about Lax6rth and to the northward, but the middle of the parish has been sadly neglected. The soil being open, and carts and horses constantly traversing them, the roads that are, are so broken up during winter, that people cannot go to church with any comfort. These observations refer to Tingwall only ; for in Whiteness and Weesdale, there can scarcely be said to be any made roads. Fisheries. — The Shetlauders subsist chiefly by fishing, without which few could pay their rents. The inhabitants in the southern parts of this parish begin their spring fishing in February, ventur- ing out to sea whenever the weather permits, often risking their lives. A few salt their own fish, and dispose of them, when ready for the market, on their own account. The price of cod in ge- neral is 4s. per cwt. for wet fish ; price of ling, 6s. : two cwt. and rather less than a-half of wet make one of dry fish. The summer fishing begins about the end of April, and ends about the 12th of August It is carried on in sloops of from twenty to forty tons. More than one-half of the fish caught goes to the men ; most of whom about Scalloway have shares in the vessels. Some- of them are sole owners. The people in these parishes are under no obligation to fish to their landlords, or to dispose of any of their product to them. They are at liberty to employ themselves in any way they please. There was formerly a bounty on Shetland fish, and also on the vessels engaged in the fishing, of L. 1 per registered ton. , For some years past, the herring-fishing has been extensively carried on. The people deliver their herrings at about 7s. per cran. I have known one of our boats take 297 crans in a season. In 1835, above 15,000 barrels were shipped from Scalloway alone. For the three last years, this fishing has not been successful ; and 68 8HBTLAND. the crops having also failed, the people are in a rery reduced state. In such circumstances, rents can hardly be paid either for lands or houses. Yet, with a very few exceptions, no tenant has been turned out of his possession by his landlord. The rents are at present all paid in money. There are lt)37 merks land in this ministry. The rental is about L.2000. The arable ground will measure rather more than 2500 acres. E.rports and Imports. — It is impossible to separate the exports and imports of this parish from the rest of Shetland. Some of the exports of these islands, as extracted from the Custom- House books^ arenas follows : — Te«rl823. Tear 1824. Year 182A. Fifth, tons, 1866 1284 1575 Oil, barrels, 740 950 124.1 Beef, barrels, 140 • . 433 Oxen, • 367 . 1250 f beep, • • • 69 . 76 Kelp, tons, 200 • • 442 Ponies, 92 140 Butter, barrels. 106 119 Cbromate of iron, tons • • • 180 The following are some of the imports; oatmeal, 2152^ bolls; tobacco, 4768 lbs.; spirits, 14,830 gallons; coffee, 1419 lbs.; snuff, 1073 lbs.; tea, 17,98a The late Mr Mouat of Garth states, that, in 1831, there were in Shetland 25,000 acres cultivated land, — 400,000, uncultivated, -—the rental being from L. 26,000 to L. 28,000. He reckons the gross proceeds of lands, fishery, trade, &c. to be L. 300,000 per annum.* Lakes, — There are many lakes in this parish, abounding with fish. The principal ones are the lakes of Tingwall, Asta, and Girlsta in Tingwall ; and the lake of Strom in Whiteness. In a small holm in Tingwall lake, the Grand Foud held his Court. Girlsta lake is celebrated by Torfaeus. He says, it was called Geirhildar-vatn, from the daughter of Floke, a northern pirate, having been lost in it. f In the lake of Strom, there are the re- mains of a small castle, said to have been inhabited by a son of the Earl of Orkney, who was afterwards slain, by order of his fa- ther, at the standing-stone of Tingwall. X V. — Parochial Economy. Harbours. — This parish is better provided with harbours than any in Shetland. To the north, are Deal's Voe, Laxfirth Voe, • See Peterkin'* Letter to George Traill, Em. M. P. f See Hibbert. p. 460. t SeeHibbert,pp.S68aDd64l. i»wrr», p wv. TINQWALL, WHITENESS, AND WEESDALE. 69 Wadbrister Voe, and Catfritb Voe. To the west, Weesdnle Voe, Binnaness Voe, and Whiteness Voe/ To the south, Scalloway Voe, and Cliifsound. And to the west of Scalloway, there is a cluster of islands belonging to this parish, within all of which there is fine anchorage. Ecclesiastical State. — There are at present two churches, — one at Tingwall, built in 1788, after a long litigation before the Court of Session, — and one at Whiteness for the united parishes of Whiteness and Weesdale, at which there is a missionary on the Royal Bounty. It stands by the loch of Strom, near to the an- cient fortification already noticed, part of which was taken down to help to build the former church. The present church is a new one. The old church was dedicated to St Ola. Near to this, lived Sinclair of Strom, famous for his bravery in defending the rights of the udallers against the Government in 1530. In this contest, the Earl of Caithness was slain. There was formerly a church at Weesdale dedicated to " Our Lady." It was much (sometimes still is) frequented by people from every corner of Shetland, who, by casting in an offering of money at the shrine of ** Our Lady," believed they would be delivered from any trouble they laboured under. There is a tradition regarding the building of it, still firmly believed by the superstitious of the islanders. Two wealthy ladies, sisters, having encountered a storm off the coast of Shetland, vowed to '* Our Lady," that, if she would bring them safe to land, they would erect a church to her on the first spot they reached. They landed at Weesdale, and immediately com- menced building the church. And each morning, when the masons came to work, they found as many stones ready quarried as they required during the day. One of the elders of the church, who lately lived in that neighbourhood, used regularly to gather up the offerings, which he put into the poor's box. A church is building at Scalloway, for the village and its neighbourhood, the walls of which will be finished in a few months. Stipend, — Tingwall is celebrated for its process of augmenta- tion. The Court of Session declaring that they had no power to augment the stipends of the clergy, the incumbent, the Rev. Wil- liam Mitchell, appealed to the House of Lords, who gave a deci- sion favourable to the clergy. The Court of Session then aug- mented it to L.578, Ids. Scots, and 108 lispunds of butter, with Lte40 for communion elements. It at present amounts to L.254, 70 SHETLAND. 14s. 3<1., with 20 lispuuds butter, and L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. Education. — The parochial school is placed about the middle of Tingwall. There are three schools supported by the So- ciety for Propagating Christian Knowledge, one in Weesdale, one in Whiteness, and one at Scalloway. In the island of Trondra, there is one of the General Assembly's schools : and there is another at Laxfirth, where Mr Hay has built a commodious school and dwelling-house. Owing to the parish being so intersected by voes, there are many children who can attend none of these schools. Poor, — There is a great proportion of poor, especially in Ting- wall parish, and there are no funds for their support but the Sab- bath-day collection, to which the absentee heritors have contri- buted nothing, at least for the last thirty-three years. June Id^lL PARISH OF NORTHMAVING. PRESBYTERY OF BUURAVOE, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. THE REV. WILLIAM STEVENSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Some suppose that the name Nortlimavine signifies North Main, i. e. the north part of the Mainland of Zetland. Others imagine, that as the neck of land which divides this parish from that of Delting is called Maven, and as the whole parish lies to the north of it, it has thence derived its name. Extentf 4rc.—lt is a very extensive parish, being 8 miles broad from east to west, and 16 miles long from north to south. The sea is its boundary on all sides, except where it is joined to the parish of Delting by the neck of land referred to above, and which is only about an hundred yards broad. Topographical Appearances. — The figure of the parish ap- proaches near to that of a triangle, and its surface is very irregular It is covered with hills, but none of these are of great elevation* except Rona'sHill, which, in the former Statistical Account^ is said to be 3944 feet above the level of the sea ; but, latelv, it NORTHMAYING. 71 va ascertained to be only about 1500 feet. It is the highest hill in Zetland ; and from its summit, under a clear and serene sky, which very seldom happens even in the 6nest summer weather, a most extensive and beautiful prospect is presented to the view. The coast is very irregular, and intersected by a vast number of voes or bays. The shores for the most part are high and pre- cipitous, except where banks of sand or gravel are formed, and composed of rocks of the hardest description. Other materials would not long endure the fury of the winter's storm. Around the parish, there are many excellent bays or voes. The principal, the most extensive, and beautiful, is St Magnus Bay, from which many voes run into the interior of the land, where the largest vessels may ride at anchor in the most tempestuous wea- ther, in perfect safety. Upon the west side of the parish, there is Mangaster Voe, Hammer's Voe, Gunister Voe, and Urafirth Voe ; but Hillswick is most frequented by vessels, as it is considered a very safe harbour. Upon the south and east side, there is Sullom Voe, which is said to be eight miles long, and Gluss Voe, and Collafirth Voe, and others. Upon the north side of the parish, there is Rona's Voe, and Hamnavoe ; the former is said to be six miles long, and is narrow ; the latter is an excellent place for vessels riding at anchor : but the entrance to it is very small. This parish is also surrounded by a great number of small islands or holms, and pillars or rocks, situated near the shore, and which are very picturesque objects, when viewed from a distance. There are the Isle of Eagleshey, the Isle of Niben, the Isle of Gunister, the Isle of Stenness, Gluss Isle, the Isle of Uvea and Fetheland, and the Island of Lamma, and some others. None of these are inhabited at present ; and the pasture of most of them is considered excellent, and is famed for producing the richest beef and mutton. And upon the most of them, sheep and Cattle are kept in winter as well as summer, without shelter, or receiving fodder of any kind, even in the most inclement seasons. Here, also, many curious rocks may be seen. The most re- markable is one situated at the back of Hillswick Ness, and cal- led the Drongs. This immense rock rises, almost quite perpen- dicular, to the height of an hundred feet from the water, and at a distance has the appearance of a vessel under sail. Near to this are two very high pillars, of the same kind of rock with the Drongs, -and with the stupendous crags upon the shore. And it is not improbable that these have all been at one time unit* 73 SHETLAND. ed together, but hare been separated, not by volcanic eruptiont, but by the billows of the ocean, which nothing almost can resist, during the winter storms. There is another roclc, called Dorholm, from a lofty and spacious arch passing through its centre, and which has the appearance of a door in certain directions. The height of this rock is 76 feet from the water, and the height of the arch is said to be 54 feet. To the north of this, there is a, rock called the Maiden Skerry, which is very near, but completely detached from the shore, and on which, it is reported, the foot of man has never trod. Two miles farther north, there is a rock of very great height, called the Osse Skerry, through which also there is a very large arch, which may be seen at an immense dis- tance. Near to Fetheland, there is also a number of very high rocks, called the Ramnastacks. All these rocks and holms, and others that could be mentioned, differ in their appearance from one another, and stand forth amid the waters of the ocean ; con« sequently they are excellent sea-marks to mariners in search of a harbour or place of safety. Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere is very va- riable, and very moist. Sometimes, however, the barometer re- mains stationary for several days and weeks, and then the weather is uncommonly fine. I have seen the barometer as high as 31, and as low as 28, in a tremendous gale of wind from the west. The barometer always rises when the wind is northerly, even al- though it rains heavily. And when it falls suddenly, a very heavy sea may be expected, or a gale of wind. Rains are frequent, and sometimes very heavy. Some seasons^ however, are very dry ; the peat-banks are rent asunder, and the grass and crops are injured, even although, in summer evenings, there may be thick fogs and heavy dews to refresh the soil. The winds are very variable, and the prevailing wind is westerly. During the winter season, when storms and tempests prevail, the wind often changes from one direction to another, suddenly and unexpectedly. Houses are unroofed, crops destroyed, and boats and other property lost ; and every season, shipwrecks take place. The climate is considered mild and temperate. The summer season is very seldom disagreeably or oppressively hot, an equality in the atmosphere being preserved by the surrounding waters. The winter, sometimes, also is very mild, at other times the cold and frost are intense. But although the climate b very damp, it is not considered by any means unhealthy ; and warm clothing is NORTHMAVINO. 78 an indispensable article of dress. Rheumatism and asthma are very common complaints among the people ; but perhaps these may foe attributed as much to the low, miserable, and uncomfort- able dwellings in which they live, as to the dampness of the cli- mate. Fever of a very infectious nature sometimes occurs ; but it is commonly confined to two or three families in the same neighbourhood, as no intercourse whatever takes place with per- sons so affected, and thus they sometimes die a misertible death for want of cleanliness, proper treatment, and medical attendance* Pulmonary complaints are also to be met with, but are not com- mon. That the climate is, by no means, injurious to health, may be inferred from the fact, that, in 1831, there were thirty^nine persons in this parish, and chiefly women, upwards of eighty years of age. Some of them were above ninety years, and one woman died lately said to have been an hundred years old. Hydrography. — This parish is nearly surrounded by the sea, and voes run into the interior, almost in every direction. Many excellent springs are to be found. Very near to the top of Rona's Hill, there are several powerful springs, which send forth an im- mense quantity of water, in a short space of time. And as these springs are more elevated than the tops of the highest hills in these islands, where must their source or origin be ? No medi- cinal springs, I believe, have hitherto been found. Lochs or lakes, some of considerable extent and depth, are very numerous in this parish, amounting, it has been said, to upwards of an hun- dred, and many of them abounding with most excellent trout. Geology. — The direction of the strata of rocks, in this parish, is from east to west ; and innumerable are the veins or dikes and fis- sures that cut across the strata, and more or less derange and alter their original position. The mountains and hills are chiefly com- posed of granite, syenite, syenitic greenstone, gneiss, diallage rock, porphyry, &c Old red sandstone and limestone, of a coarse descrip- tion, are also to be found in different parts of the parish. No fos- sil organic remains, or petrifactions, whether belonging to the ani- mal or vegetable kingdom, have ever been found, that I have heard of; neither are there any ores containing copper, lead^ &c. Chromate of iron has been found in certain situations, but not of the best quality ; also Scotch pebbles or agates, and garnets. Peat moss, for the most part, is the only soil that covers the solid rocks referred to above. Along the shore, in favoured spots^ the soil is of a light and sandy description, which in good seasons 74 SHETLAND. bears excellent crops ; in other places, it is of a clayey or loamy nature, which also produces well. The soil, in general, is very thin, even where it is thickened by the application of other earths by manual labour ; and it is naturally wet, but draining would be a tedious and expensive operation, as the subsoil is so very hard and impenetrable. Zoology. — In this parish, there are some birds which are consi- dered rare. There are several kinds of gulls ; the Bonxie or Skua gull is the most rare. Rona's hill, Foula, and island of Unst are the only three situations in Zetland where it is to be found. It is a beautiful and powerful bird, and is said to have many a hard battle with the eagle, which is also an inhabitant of Rona's hilL There are also many varieties of wild ducks frequenting the voes and lochs, at all seasons of the year ; and also different kinds of geese, such as the ember-goose, or great northern diver, and the rain-goose or red-throated diver. Hawks, snipes, plovers, curlews &C. are often met with. Large flocks of swans are sometimes ob< served flying about, but do not take up their residence here. In this parish, a great number of cattle are reared every season and sold, and also ponies. Some of these are very small, for which sometimes high prices have been obtained. The real Shetland breed of sheep is hardly now to be found in this parish, except on Rona's hill, as it has been crossed by the Cheviot, or black-faced breed ; and some think that it would have been better, had such breeds never been introduced into the country, as the real Shet- land breed is much hardier, and stands the climate better, and the food which nature has here provided is coarse, and not very nutri- tious. Most of the lochs abound with salmon-trout, and great numbers are caught every season. Sea-trout is also very abundant, and of a large size. The spawning season is in the month of October ; but it is thought by some, that they spawn two or three times in the year. Many varieties of shell-fish are found here, such as oysters, spouts, mussels, cockles, and lobsters of a large size. These, in seasons of scarcity, afibrd food to the people, but are seldom or never used, so long as they are able to obtain fish. Botany. — No rare plants, I believe, are to be found in this pa- rish. A few are found of a medicinal description ; some are also used for dyeing cloth. There are no forests or plantations in this ^country; but the experiment has never been made, (and the pro- NORTHMAVING. '75 • prietors have no inclination or desire to try the experiment,) whe- ther large plantations of different kinds of trees, properly walled or fenced, to prevent cattle and sheep from injuring and destroy- ing them, would succeed or not. Some situations in this parish appear favourable for the attempt. In certain places trunks and branches of trees are found imbedded in the moss. 11. — Civil History. Land'Owners. — The chief land-owner is Arthur Gifibrd, Esq. of Busta, to whom the greatest part of the parish belongs. The other proprietors are. Earl Zetland ; Henry Cheyne, Esq. of Tang- wick ; Arthur Cheyne, Esq. of Ollaberry ; and Mrs Ogilvy of Gas- saburgh. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers, for a few years, have been kept well and accurately ; but the old records are far from being perfect or voluminous, and are not of a very early date. At the commencement of the ministry of Dr Jack, in the year 1765, new session-books were obtained^ and ever since they have been more or less regularly kept, according to the qualifications and ability of the session-clerk. Antiquities. — A huge granite stone appears to have been raised upon the top of an hill in this neighbourhood, having a circle of smaller stones around the bottom. What deed it commemorates, or whether it was raised for a religious purpose, none now can telL There are the ruins of several religious houses in this parish. The church at Ollaberry has been in ruins, for many years ; also the church at North Roe. The remains of a very large Pict's house on the west side of the parish are still visible. It appears to have been a very strong building, and house of refuge or de- fence, being surrounded by water. On the top of Rona's hill, an ancient watch-house, as it is called, is still visible, built of a few large flat stones ; it might have held six or seven persons. Ancient arms have been found several times. A few of the people are in possession of the ancient battle-axe, which is care- fully concealed in some part of the house, and superstitiously pre- served, and it is commonly called a thunderbolt. The writer of this paper has one in his possession, which was obtained from a parishioner, as a great favour. It is quite entire, and composed of a very hard grey stone, — such a species of stone as is not to be found in this part of the country. An ancient sword was also found, several years ago, by accident, and is at present in posses- sion, it is believed, of the Antiquarian Society in Edinburgh. 76 SHETLAND. IIL — Population. The population of this parish in 1755, amounted to 1009. In 1784, it had increased to 1657. And in ISdl, it was very near 2500. The number of males was 1091, and the number of fe* males 1295. This great increase of population is to be attributed to the diTiding of the arable lands into smaller portions, for the accommodation of those employed in the fishing, and the taking of •mall farms from the undivided common, for a similar purpose. Tlie population is altogether a rural population. The yearly average of births for the last seven years is 60, and of marriages 14 ; but of deaths, it is impossible to say, as there are five different burial- places in the parish, and no register of such has ever been kept. In this parish, there are only two persons or families of indepen* dent fortune residing, and there are only two proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards. At present, there are 400 families in the parish, and about the same number of inhabited houses. None are uninhabited, and a few are now building. The circumstances of a vast number of families are so poor and miserable, that cleanliness cannot be observed. On Sundav, how* ever, they appear at church clean, and well-dressed. In former times, their every-day dress was a coarse cloth of their own manu- facture made of wool ; now Scotch and English cloth is generally used. The people may be said to be generally of an intellectual cha- racter ; and, considering the opportunities they enjoy, they may be also called a moral and a religious people. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — This parish is supposed to contain 60,000 acres of land ; but, as only a small fractional part of the surface has ever been measured, it is very difficult to say how many acres are cul- tivated, or occasionally in tillage,— perhaps 6000 acres. 'J^he re- m«ainder has never been cultivated, and is in a state of undivided common ; and it, is difficult to say what number of acres, with the profitable application of capital, could be added to the cultivated land of the parish. Many suppose, that the only profitable way to apply capiUl, in cultivating waste lands in Zetland, is to turn these lands into perm?inent pasture, by sowing natural grasses for the rearing and feeding of cattle and sheep. The state of husbandry, with respect to cultivation and reclaim* ing waste lands, is low indeed, except in a very few cases. Even NORTHMAVING. 77 those who are considered good farmers among the people, know nothing about draining, or the process of fallowing. Indeed, fal- lowing is impossible, — for all the land that the poor people have, must be turned over from year to year, for the support of their fa- milies, — it is so very small. Perhaps there are not a dozen of fields in the whole parish properly drained ; and no lands here have undergone the process of irrigation. There is, however, a number pf impediments which prevent the land from being cultivated and improved as it might be, in this country. Very few of the farmers have money or capital, and none are willing to lay out in the improvement of the soil, to pay theexpense of keeping servants for that purpose, or purchase the necessary implements of husbandry. Very few of the farmers have leases. They are all, for the most part, tenants at will. They may be removed by the landlord or proprietor, when he pleases, and they may remove themselves from the lands, when they think proper. As they cannot tell, therefore, how long they may occupy the lands, they have no spirit or desire for improvement, as they may in a short time be possessed by another. Another impediment is the want of good enclosures and good roads. As they are, in general, tenants at will, and have no leases, they are very careless about making good enclosures. There are very few stone fences. For the most part, the fences are built of turf, and it requires one of no ordinary kind to prevent the Zetland sheep from molesting and destroying the crops in their season. Every year, the poor people sustain a loss, more or less severe, on this account ; and those who have bad fences, require to keep a number of dogs for the pro- tection of their property. Again, the ling and herring-fishery is another impediment. With a few exceptions, every farmer is a fisher- man, and every fisherman a farmer. During the summer season, therefore, when the men are at sea, the crops, cattle, &c. are left to the care and management of women and children, who, I dare say, do the best they can. But it is to be supposed, that, if a division of these two employments could be efiected in some way or other, the land would be improved and cultivated to better advan- tage, than it has hitherto been. The Shetland spade is almost the only instrument of husbandry used by the people, and three or four or five persons turn over the earth, or peat as they call it, at the same time, and they make more progress than a stranger would suppose ; but they commonly turn it over down hill, so that the earth falls from the spade very 78 SHETLAND. easily. And the consequence », that at the bottom of every plot of ground or ridge, the earth, and always the best, has accumu* lated to a considerable depth. Ploughing is, at present, very little used, and perhaps, as the farms are divided into smaller portions^ may get into disuse, almost altogether. When the former Statis- tical Account was written, there were twenty- six ploughs in the parish ; at present, there are only twelve, and these are drawn by oxen or horses, or both, as the people can get them for hire, or are able to rear them and keep them for themselves* Live-stock. — The sheep and cattle reared or bred are, for the most part, of the pure Zetland breed ; but little or no attention whatever is paid to their improvement Some of the Scotch kinds have occasionally been introduced, but were found not to answer well, as they are too tender or soft for the climate. The hardier the breed, the better for Zetland. The breed of horses, it is said, has fallen off very much, for some years past ; and the reason is, that the best of the horses are always sold, and only those of an infe- rior description kept for breeding ; and things will never improve till the proprietors interfere and enact a law, which they can very easily do, that the best horses shall always be kept ; and this would, ultimately, be greatly for the interest of both landlord and tenant. Fishing, — Fishing is the chief occupation of the people, during the summer season, and almost all depend on this, and not on the produce of the soil, for the payment of rent and other burdens. And various kinds of fishing are carried on, in this parish. Cod- fish- ing is, at present, almost given up, as it has been a complete failure for some years. Herring-fishing has commenced, but it has not hi- therto been attended with much success; but, perhaps, this mny arise from not having boats of a proper size and construction, and nets of the proper dimensions and depth. Ling-fishing has been carried on for a great many years, with the most complete success, and much wealth has been obtained by it. The boats, however, are now very much reduced in number from what they were once ; and this is to be attributed to the scarcity of fish, the lowness of the price, and the great expense with which the fishing is attended. In this parish, there are a great number of excellent stations for pursuing the ling-fishing. — Stenness, Hamnavoe, Uyea, and Fo- theland. At these stations, the crews and boats assemble about the end of May, if the weather is favourable, and remain till the beginning of August. In former times, the boats fished near the L.dOOO 1000 100 d560 600 100 60 10 NOUTHMAVING. 79 shore, and fish were found in abundance. Now, the fish have left the shore, and the boats must sail or pull out to sea forty or fifty miles, to reach the fishing-ground ; and, if the weather is fine, they remain two or perhaps three nights. During all this time, thd fare of the crews is very simple : water or bland, a little spirits, and oaten cake. Seldom a season passes but some meet a wateny grave, and leave widows and orphans behind. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : — Produce of grain of all kinds. Potatoes, turnips, and cabbages. Meadow bay, - . - - - Ling, cod, tusk, and berrings, Beef, bides, and tallow, Butter and oil, ..... Shetland stockings and gloves. Calf, otter, sheep, and seal skins. Total yearly value of raw produce, - L.84d0 V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church is very inconvenient for the greater part of the population. It is distant from one extremity of the parish twelve miles, from another eight miles, from another four miles; and it stands within 60 fathoms of the edge of the sea. It was built in the year 1733, and was repaired in the year 1764; and in the year 1825 the interior was completely renewed. It has accommodation for about 600 per* sons, and 70 sittings are set apart for the poor. The present manse was built about the year 1768, and repaired in 1790. In the year 1821, it also received very extensive repairs internally, so that it is amongst the most comfortable manses in the country. The glebe contains many acres of land, but how many I know not, as it has never been all measured. It is not valuable, however, according to its extent, as it is situated in four different parts of the parish, all at a considerable distance from each other. The present value is about L. 15. The stipend is L. 150. There are a Methodist chapel and an Independent chapel, which are together attended by about 100 members. The Esta- blished Church is generally well attended, and the average number of communicants is 800 ; the number of families about 350. Since my induction in 1830, no collections have been made for religious or charitable purposes except once. The people in ge« 80 SHETLAND. neral are very poor, and all that can be collected on Sundays in the year is not sufficient for the maintenance and support of those upon the poor's roll* There are no Societies established for reli- gious purposes. Education. — At present, there are five schools in the parish : one parochial school, one Society school, and three supported by individual subscriptions only, for three or four months in the win- ter season. The branches of education generally taught in each, are, reading, writing, grammar, arithmetic, book-keeping, and navigation. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is L.25, ds. 4d., but he has not as yet obtained the legal accommodations ; and the amount of school-fees is very small, about L. 4. The salary of the So- ciety schoolmaster is L. 15, and the fees and perquisites amount to L. 1. The salaries of the other schoolmasters are from L. 1, 10s. to L.S a quarter; and they lodge with the parents of the children. It is believed that there are none from six to fifteen years of age, who cannot read tolerably well. There are many, however, who cannot write, particularly among the females, although some of these also are able to produce very good specimens. Three additional and permanent schools are absolutely neces- sary to give the scattered population of this parish even the ele- ments of education. Those schools which are open in the winter season for three or four months, are attended with very little bene- fit to the children, as they commonly lose in the summer what is gained in the winter. And there are three situations in this pa- rish, distant each six and ten miles from the parochial school, where, if qualified and respectable teachers were obtained, they would be attended by sixty or seventy scholars. And as the people themselves, being so very poor, are unable to provide pro- per accommodations for a qualified teacher, or give him a spitable provision, they must wait patiently till the eye of the charitable and benevolent is bent towards them, and the hand opened to their relief. Poor and Parochial Fund*. — There are, at present, 60 persons receiving parochial aid, and the sum allotted to each per year is from 3s. to 10s. according to age, poverty, and other circumstances. The money thus given is to provide clothing only, as the poor, for the most part, have a certain quarter or district of the parish as- signed them to obtain a livelihood; and they usually go from NORTHMAVINO. 81 house to house, according to their fancy or incHnation, in order to obtain a lodging and the necessaries of Hfe. The annual amount of funds for the relief of the poor is about I^. 24. The yearly collections at the church door is about L. 8, and the sacramental collection is about L. 10. Besides, the funds are increased to a small extent, by interest received from a small sum deposited in the bank, and money on loan. There is no other regular mode of procuring funds for the sup- port of the poor, than those now mentioned. But should mis- fortune befal a family, the elders are sometimes employed in their several districts to obtain what they can from the charitable for their relief. In this, they sometimes succeed very well, and col- lect in small sums, from L. 3 to L. 4, which afford a seasonable relief, not only to the afflicted, but also to the poor funds, which are kept very low on account of the numerous applications for sup- port. It does not appear that there is a disposition among the poor to refrain from seeking parochial relief, neither do they consider it as degrading. A few are to be found, however, who, in the most miserable circumstances, would rather starve, than seek the least support from any person. Others, again, are not ashamed to seek support from the funds, for their friends, — who ought to feel ashamed^ when they consider their own circumstances. Their application is generally resisted* Fairs. — In this parish, there are three fairs or markets held every year, at which cattle and horses are bought an4 sold. . In the month of May, there is a sale of milk cows, young cattle, and horses; and again, in the month of November, for fat cattle and horses. These sales are attended by a great number of people, and by some from a very great distance. Fuel. — Peat is the fuel that is used by all in the parish, and the cutting, curing, and flitting home, are, in some cases, attended with considerable expense. In two or three genteel families^ Scotch or English coal is occasionally used. June 1841. SHETLAND. PARISH OF MID AND SOUTH YELL. PRESBYTERY OF BURRAVOE, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. THE REV. JAMES ROBERTSON, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. This parish is formed by the junction of the Mid and Soutb parishes of the Island of Yell, (formerly written Zell,) one of the three islands in the Shetland groap, commonly called the NortVr Isles. North Yell, the third parish into which Yell is divided, being joined to Fetlar, quoad sacra^ constitutes a portion oC another ministry. To the ministry of Mid and South Yell are joined the Islands of Samphrey and Bigga, both situated to the westward of, and distant from, the mainland of Yell about a mile and a-half. The former contains six families, the latter, until within the last few years, when, it has been converted into a grazing island, was generally occupied by eight tenants. It may be re- marked, that the teitids of Bigga are paid the one-half to the in- cumbent of Yell, the other half to the minister of Delting. To Mid and South Yell is also attached the Island of Haseussey, si- tuated about a .mile from its east coast, and occupied at present by six families. Situation^ Extent. — The south extremity of this parish lies in 60'' 4(X, and its most northern in about 60^ 51' of north latitude. It reaches from 18' to 32' west, making its extreme length some- what more than 13 miles, and its extreme breadth nearly 7. Boundaries, — On the east side, it is bounded by Colgrave Sound, which separates it from Fetlar ;^ on the south, by Lunnafirth, which runs between it and the parish of Lunnasting ; on the west, by Yell Sound, on the opposite shores of which are the parishes of Delting and Northmavine. Colgrave Sound averages three miles in breadth, Lunnafirth four, and Yell Sound six miles. In Yell Sound, the current is perhaps the strongest of any on the north coast of Shetland^ its rapidity at spring-tides being eight or x)ine miles an hour. The Island of Yell lies in a direction nearly north-east by. MID AND SOUTH YELL. 83 north, along the east side from the Ness of Burravoe to Burra- ness in North Yell, when it acquires an inclination of about 12° in a more northerly direction. From the Brough of Cuppasetter, situated on the south-west corner of the island, to the " Rock of the Birreir," a distance which embraces nearly one-half of its west coast, the line is also north-east by north. After pass* ing this rock, the coast takes a more easterly direction, inclin- ing thereto from 17° to 20°; thus reducing the north end of the island to nearly one-half of its south end and middle breadths. Two ranges of hills, of from 200 to 400 feet in height, extend al- most the whole length of the island, and in a direction nearly pa- rallel to each other. These are occasionally intersected by others, running in a direction east and west ; and between which, are two excellent harbours, viz.Midyellvoe and Bastavoe, this last men- tioned, being in North Yell. Mid Yell voes, formed by the Ness of Lussetter on its south sidOf and the Head of Hindigarth on its north, runs about a mile and a- half west, on a bed of clay and shell sand, affording easy access to vessels of any tonnage, and of sufficient extent to moor a fleet of an hundred sail, in from six to ten fathoms water. Another inlet, called Whalefirth voe, approaches to that of Mid Yell voe from a north-west direction, so as nearly to form a junction with it ; there being but a few hundred yards between the pools at high water. As the intervening space consists entirely of peat- moss resting on a substratum of blue clay, a canal might be cut at a very trifling expense, which the influx and reflux of the sea would in a short time convert into a channel, through which boats could pass at any time of the tide. Were a communication between the seas on the east and west side of Yell thus opened up, there can be little doubt that the value of a locality in the vicinity of either of the voes just mentioned, would be considerably increased from the additional quantity and variety offish that would be there- by introduced into them, and the facility afforded to all the inha- bitants of that district, of prosecuting the various kinds of fishing, on whatever side of the island their endeavours were likely to be attended with the greatest success. Along the whole of the east side of Yell, the land is moderate- ly low, and in many places sandy, and there is scarcely more than a mile of coast, where a boat cannot land in ordinary weather. On the south side of the island, there are also the two good harbours of Burravoe and Hamnavoe, about a mile distant from each other* 84 SHETLAND. But on the west side, after advancing about eight miles to the northward, the shore becomes bold and precipitous ; so that from Westsandwick to Gloup, the most northern point in the island, there are only two places on a coast stretching upwards of eleven miles, where a landing can be effected, namely, Whalefirthvoe, already mentioned, and the dale of Lumbister, and at this last place only when the weather is fine, it being, apparently, a mere track worn in the soft stone by the action of a stream of water which passes over it. Although situated nearly in the sixty-first degree of north lati- tude, the air in winter, uniformly moist, is temperate to a degree to which those accustomed to the cold prevalent at that season in the interior of Great Britain are altogether strangers, and snow in consequence seldom lies above a day or two at a time. In a note taken at the manse of Yell, December 24th 1832, occur the following remarks : " The turnips are this day as green as they were at Michaelmas. The rye-grass among bear-stubble measures from eight to ten inches of green blade; and among the year old rye grass, is the daisy everywhere seen in bloom.*** To these general remarks in reference to the mildness of Shetland winters, the history of those of 1835-36, 1836-37, and of 1837- 38, forms a striking contrast. In each of the two first mentioned winters, there were three different falls of snow, the average dura- tion of which was eleven days, while, during the last mentioned, the snow which fell on 6th January had not entirely disappeared by 1st of April. At no time, however, during this period was the thermometer observed to range lower than 1 1° below the freez- ing point. Thus 21<' may be stated as the greatest degree of cold ever known in Yell, and 69'' as the highest range ever attained by the thermometer in summer. The westerly are the prevailing winds ; and during the months of October, November, and Decem- ber, there frequently occur tremendous thunder storms, most ge- nerally at night. This fact, as well as some others which might be mentioned, would seem to establish an identity between the electric fluid and the aurora borealis, which, from the month of October to March, is seen almost every clear night, moving from one quarter of the heavens to the other, in all its shapes and shades of endless variety. As might be expected from the prevailing moisture of the cli- mate, rheumatism is a common complaint among all classes. And from the same cause, perhaps, in connexion with the circumstance MID AND SOUTH YELL. 85 of there being but few families of the labouring classes altogether free from a constitutional taint of scrofula, those who are carried off Dy pulmonary complaints are more numerous than are the victims of any other single disease. For the cure of this fatal disorder no- /^ thing, even at the present day, is deemed so effectual as the / ) ^CJ^ Royal touch ! And as a substitute for the actual living finger of ^ royalty, a few crowns and half-crowns of the coinage of the first NC-^^^ Charles, carefully handed down from father to son, have been ef- fectual both here, and in every other parish in Shetland, towards removing this disease, and that to an extent which may appear somewhat incredible to many whose minds, in reference to the heal- ing virtue still inherent in royalty, may be in a more sophisticated state, than those of her Majesty's subjects in this latitude. Be this as it may, there are few localities in Shetland in which a living evidence is not to be found of one said to have been ^' cured by the coin," and who would instantly be pointed at as a sufiicient evidence to warrant confidence in its efiicacy, should it happen that a doubt at any time rested thereon. Hydrography. — All the springs fall under the denomination of perennial, and the temperature of those least affected in quantity by the summer drought, is from 44° to 45°, their water being not unfrequently impregnated with iron. Geology, — In Yell the prevailing strata are gneiss and mica* ceous rocks, traversed by veins of granite, and occasionally having masses of quartz and whinstone imbedded in them. The direc- tion of the strata is nearly north and south, their dip being from 35° to 90°. The only ore ever found in Yell is that of iron; and in no known instance, has it been found in a shape different from bog iron ore. In Yell, as well as in several other parishes in Shetland, and in such situations as the banks of burns, or that of the sea side, there is frequently to be met with under a mass of peat moss, sometimes not less than 10 feet deep, and immediately above the prevailing rock, a layer of fine^rich loam, from one to two feet thick, on the top of which are always found the remains of wood, generally birch and occasionally oak. The soil throughout Yell partakes, more or less, of the quality of moss, mixed either with clay or particles of the decayed rock, on which it rests ; and in no instance is it found to be sandy, un« less where sand has been thrown up by the violence of the sea during winter, and carried over it by the action of the winds* 86 SHETLAND. Such is the depth of peat moss in the interior of Yell, that, if equally distributed over the surface thereof, it would afford a covering of not less than three feet in thickness to the whole island. Zoology.— It has sometimes been doubted whether salmon are to be found on the coast, or in the lochs in Shetland. This doubt admits of an easy solution, as no fewer than twenty-one were caught, at one drag of a net on the sands of Vatsetter in this parish in 1831. All that have been caught here are of a small size, none having been seen exceeding nine and a half pounds. This, however, is not to be wondered at, when the destructive habits of the seal, in reference to this fish, are taken into account, »**half a score of which have been seen guarding the creek, through which the fish had to pass before getting into fresh water, which they generally attempt from 20th July to the middle of August* The sea-trout, which are most abundant here, are somewhat later in their habits, and never seek to get into fresh water before the middle of August or beginning of September. As a shell-fish, important in an economical point of view, the common cockle ought not to be overlooked in the statistics of Yell ; for often, in times of scarcity, has it been the means of saving the lives of hundreds of its inhabitants. As an example of the ex** tent to which the cockle was sought after, during the scarcity which prevailed in 1 837, it may be mentioned, that, in the month of May of that year, 1 J 5 barrels of cockle-shells were collected from 10 families, who had been reduced to the necessity of living on the fish thereof during the preceding spring : And at that time, there were more than 50 families in the parish, — from whom a proportionate quantity could have been obtained. Yell, like other districts, the inhabitants of which live by fish- ing, has often been, nay, it may be said, yearly is exposed to sad dis- asters from loss of life at sea. But of all the recorded misfortunes of this kind, none can he compared with that which occurred in the month of July 1832. On that occasion, four boats were lost, and of their whole crews, which numbered thirty men, only three were saved. These were almost all men in the prime of life, and left behind them 23 widows, and 61 fatherless children under four- teen years of age, to mourn their untimely fate. II. — Civil History. Land-owners. — The principal landlords in the Mid and South Yell are, John Ogilvy, Esq. of Gossaburgh and Quarff, and Ro- MID AND SOUTH YELL. 87 bert Bruce, Esq. of Burravoe, both resident ; aod, with the except tion of Charles Ogilvy, Esq. of Seafield, and Captain C. Mouat of Garthi who are non-resident, there is not another, of all the 28 heritors connected with the parish, whose income therefrom amounts to 1^.50* Parochial RegUters. — The parochial registers extend no far- ther back than to the beginning of the eighteenth century, and, though kept with tolerable accuracy, contain but little, and that little, perhaps, of still less importance. Antiquities. — In so far as can now be traced, no religious houses have, at any time, existed in this parish ; and beyond a few Pictish buildings, and some traces of the dwellings of the Shetland abori- gines, in which last have been found some stone adzes and knives^ with drinking- cups, lamps, and hammers of the same materials,— there is little now existing either to excite the inquiry of the anti- quary, or to speak to its present inhabitants of the deeds of other years. III. — Population. The population is exclusively rural, and amounts to 1853. Of these, there are under 15 vears of age, . 701 between i5 and 90, aO and 50, 50 and 70, above 70 years of age. The average number of births in seven years has been marriages. Of bachelors and widowers above 50 years of age, there are Unmarried women upwards of 45 years of age. There are 2 fatuous individuals, and 7 in a state of lameness throughout the parish. Besides the two principal resident heritors, there is not another of independent fortune in the parish. The inhabitants are, in general, a quiet and orderly class of peo- ple ; but although acts of gross and open immorality would be branded by common consent, yet it must be confessed, that other immoralities are practised to an extent which calls forth an ad- mission from all quarters, that some remedial steps ought to be taken. The less flagrant immoralilies now alluded to can, per- haps, be traced to no cause so directly, as to the want of an early training of the young to the observance of moral and religious du- ties, by means of the discipline of public schools, — a tuition to which the inhabitants of Yell have been but little accustomed* For until within the last sixteen years, such a thing as a parochial school was unknown within its bounds ; and when established in 556 360 246 89 • 42 • 11.6 12 • 69 B8 SHETLAND. 1822, it was placed in a district to which not one-eighth part of the parishioners could have access. Without investigating minute- ly the other causes that may have co-operated, to prevent attend- ance on the parochial school, it appears that, for a series of years, the quarterly average number of scholars has not exceeded ten, if it has reached that number. To give any thing like efficiency to the means of education through- out this widely extended ministry, four additional schools would be tei:)uired* Were the means of obtaining an early and a solid edu- cation extended to a people certainly not void of natural abilities, nor of acuteness to discern in what direction their interest lies, a stimulus would be given thereby to industry and activity in those departments of labour in which they are engaged, and in a practi- cal knowledge of which, they no doubt rank behind those who are similarly employed elsewhere ; while the moral and religious aspect of society could not fail to be improved. To the moral and religious improvement of the parishioners, the two principal resident heritors have not been inattentive. By Mr Bruce of Bnrravoe, a disposition has been granted to the minister for the time being, of six acres of ground for a glebe to an as- sistant minister in South Yell, with a right of pasturage on the common during summer to as many cattle as the straw raised on that ground, can fodder in winter. By Mr Ogiivy of Quarff, as- surance lias been given of his readiness to provide the necessary accommodations for a teacher, so as to secure a salary of L.25 per aniuim, at present promised to the parish by the Assembly's CommiUee. Neither of these can be considered slight benefac- tions, when the heavy assessments of late made on the heritors of this parish, in order to repair the machinery of the parochial eco- nomy therewith connected, are taken into view. For, at the end of December 1838, the heritors, in building two churches capable respectively of accommodating 500 and 380 sitters, and in repair- ing the manse, contributed upwards of L.1800 since 1831, and that from a rental which certainly does not exceed L. 1300 ! IV. — Industry. The industry of the inhabitants is alternately directed towards the cultivating of their crofts, and prosecuting the small, great line, or herring-Bshing; in which all, with the exception of a few shop- keepers, and handicraftsmen, are exclusively engaged. The number of statute acres is 37,000, of which about 4000 are enclosed ; 1500 of these last are at present, or have been cul- MID AND SOUTH YELL. 89 tivated ; and the remaining 33,000 acres are in pasture, to which the tenants renting the arable and enclosed lands have a connmon right of pasture efieiring to their respective rents. Perhaps the half of the enclosed grass grounds might be profitably cultivated with a view to improving them as pasture ; while almost the whole of the unenclosed common might be rendered more valuable by a regular system of surface draining, which, wherever attempted, has had the effect of ameliorating both the soil and grass. But a want of capital is the great bar to improvements of this or any other description ; and, with the exception of what has been done by Mr Bruce of Burravoe, and by Mr Ogilvy of Quarff, little has this remote district been benefited by the modern discoveries in agriculture. No attention has hitherto been paid to the selection of proper breeding stock, either from the native black-cattle, sheep, or horses. This is the more to be regretted, because the native are the animals best adapted to the climate and food, and because no other description of cattle bred in Shetland will ever be so much sought after for the south country market. No animal, in propor- tion to its size of bone, has ever been known to carry a greater weight of fat ; and compared with it, our present mongrel breeds are an ugly gaunt-looking race, utterly unfit for Shetland keep, and assuredly never to be sought after by those who know the points which characterize a good animal.* Produce. — Perhaps the average gross amount of product may be thus stated : Valueof bear and oats raised, 900 tons potatoes, at L.l, 5s. meadow iiay, grazing 1800 cattle, at Ss. 6d. • • 200 do. sold at L.2, lOs. grazing 10,000 sheep, at 8d. wool of do. at Is. each, 500 old sheep sold or used, 58. 1000 lambs at Is. sold or used, 900 horses grazed summer and winter, at 10s. 20 do. sold, at L.2, 10s. 250 swine killed, at 10s. ling, tusk, and cod caught, herrings do. small fish caught for family use, and oil sold from same. Amount of masons' wages, at 28., Wrights', at 2a. 6d , and la- bourers'. Is. seamen's wages in the Greenland and merchant vessels, • Since the above was written the price of black-cattle has risen 50 per cent., owing to the great facility of transport now afforded by steam.— June 23, 1841. L2300 1125 150 315 300 323 6 8 500 125 62 12 150 50 125 500 600 360 140 s, 450 L.7575 18 8 90 SHETLAND. V. — Parochial Economy. The site of the parish kirk of Mid Yell is as well selected for the convenience of the parishioners as can be in a parish, the inha- bitants of which are so widely scattered, — four-fifths thereof being within a distance of four miles, the remainder being from four to six miles distant. The South Yell kirk, now in progress, is rather better situated, since, with the exception of fifteen families, at about four miles dis* tance, none of the other families in that parish are distant more than three miles. In a parish, however, the surface of which is, in win- ter, one continued mossy swamp, and over which there is neither road nor bridge, it is only in fine weather, that any thing like good attendance can be either given by, or expected from, those at more than two miles distance from church. There is a small meeting-house built by the Wesleyan Me- thodists in South Yell, and capable of containing 200 hearers. Connected with this chapel, there are about fifty members; be- sides which, there are eight in the Independent communion in Mid Yell. Deducting these, the remaining 1795 may be consi- dered as attending the Established Church, and of whom the average number of communicants are 500. For several years past, there has been a missionary on the Royal Bounty in South Yell ; and it is expected, if a grant be given for the extension of the Church, in those parishes where the teinds are exhausted, a salary will be allowed for an additional minister in South Yell. The manse was rebuilt, and new offices built, under the inspec- tion of the late minister, at an expense to the heritors of L. 380, in the year 1807. The sum for which decreet was granted against them, was L.4d0 ; but of this sum, L. 50 are still due the repre- sentatives of the late Mr Finlayson, by those now representing the then proprietors of Sound. In 1633, the manse was repaired, and new byre built, and the other offices repaired, which, together, have been estimated, by competent judges, to amount in value to one-third of the accommodations originally afforded by heritors, under the superintendence of the late minister. These repairs are represented by heritors to have cost upwards of L. 300, under the special superintendence of one of their own number. The stipend of Mid and South Yell is about L. 143, paid by the heritors, the remainder being received from the Exchequer. The glebe, on which the present incumbent has sunk, in im- 4 MIO AND SOUTH YELL. 91 provementSy upwards of L. 190, may be considered to a future mi- nister worth L. 30 per annum ; but it cannot be said to be worth to its present occupant, more than L. 16 yearly. The annual collections average in amount L. 10, which is generally divided among 30 paupers. But in Yell, as in most other parishes in Shetland, the system prevails of assigning the most indigent, what is called a quarter, the inhabitants of which either make the pauper itinerate among them, or contribute a proportion of food towards his or her support, effeiring to the quantity of land rented by each tenant in that quarter. There is, generally speaking, but little disposition among the poor to refrain from seeking parochial aid. MiSCELLANEODS OBSERVATIONS. Spade husbandry is that universally adopted by the tenant here : it can be got executed, by those having occasion to em- ploy labourers, at the rate of 8s. the statute acre ; supposing one man employed for every two women, the former at Is. and the latter at 6d. a-day. This is unquestionably the cheapest, the most efficient in producing a return, and, in the majority of loca- lities in Yell, the only mode of culture that can be adopted, on account of the steepness, the unevenness of the surface on the rocks, with which the land is not unfrequently interspersed. Considerable addition has been made to the cultivated land, in the memory of the present generation ; and, in many instances, it has been more than doubled. About 1 790, and even at a later period, when the population did not exceed two-thirds of the pre- sent number, it was considered a favourable year indeed, wheo the produce of the harvest enabled the people to subsist, until the next year's seed was put into the ground. Now, on the contrary, with the exception of 1835-36-37, which may be ranked as years of famine, no active and providenttenant has, for more than twen- ty years past, found it necessary to buy meal for his family before the beginning of August. The tenants have an utter aversion, generally speaking, to take leases, from a mistaken notion, that it is the landlord, and not the tenant, who is thereby benefited. And even when they do enter into leases, they have been known to object to make improvements, which, before the expiry of their tacks, would have remunerated them tenfold for all their labour, — so little are the advantages arising from this kind of covenant between landlord and tenant understood here. 92 SHETLAND. Perhaps the greatest drawback to the improyement of Yell, and it may be of Shetland generally, and which, more than any thing else, operates as a drag on the resources of the landlord, is the small portions into which the land is let off to accommodate the present overgrown fishing population. For as each tenant, whether paying L. 1, 5s* or L. 5, must have a house to live in, built at an original cost of L. 15, and, upon an average, not last- ing more than twenty-five years, the heritor who has an income of L. 400 a-year, has at least an hundred houses on the property from which he draws this rent Hence he is under the necessity of building four new houses annually, at an original cost of L. 60, and is exposed to the daily annoyance and expense of keeping the remaining ninety*six in a state of habitable repair, which the oc- cupants, being tenants at will, never consider themselves obliged to do. Until this system can be got rid of, which, it is likely, will be attempted, when the divisions of the commons, now in progress, are completed, there is but a slender prospect either of the tenant bettering his circumstances, or of the landlord increasing the value of his estate. That 33,000 acres of pasture, 1500 acres of arable, and 2500 acres of inclosed grass land, should only produce an average rent of scarcely 8d. per acre, can only be attributed to' the distance at which they are situated from a market for their produce. But it is hoped that the now regularly established communication week- ly, by steam, between Shetland and the coast of Scotland, will tend to open up a ready market for the various kinds of stock, ex- cite attention to the selecting and improving the native Shetland breeds, whether of black-cattle, sheep, or horses, and in the end greatly improve the circumstances both of landlord and tenant. Draim up 1838— Revised June 1841. PARISH OF DUNROSSNESS. PRESBYTERY OF LERWICK, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. THE REV. DAVID THOMSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. This parish occupies the greater part of the southern peninsu- la of Shetland. It includes the parishes of Sandwick and Cun- ningsburghy now annexed to it ; also the Fair Isle. Mineralogy » — There was an attempt made to work a mine of copper on Pit61l, some specimens of the ore having been sent to the southward, and having attracted the attention of a mining com* ])any. Some shafts were also sunk at Sand-lodge, in Sandwick pa« rish. But these attempts, not proving successful, have been aban- doned for many years. II, — Civil History. There was a temporary residence in this parish for the Earls of Orkney, when they came to the country ; but the castle of Sculloway was their principal dwelling. Parochial Registers. — Parochial registers are kept, of the bap- tisms and marriages of persons connected with the Established Church; but Dissenters do not register their baptisms; and only their marriages are proclaimed in the Established Church. III. — Population. Amount in 1801, - 9201 181), . 3498 1821, . 3796 1831, . 4405 IV. — Industry. Dunrossness is fertile in the production of bear or big, and black oats; considerable quantities of both, and also of potatoes of good quality, are annually carried to Lerwick, and sold to the inhabi- tants there, at reasonable prices. The standard weight of the lispund, of Norwegian origin, is 32 lbs. English ; but it is the custom to give 36 lbs. or more. 94 SHETLAND. No natural crops of clover aod rye-grass spring here, except on a small spot at Sumburgh. The island of Colsay carries a good number of sheep of the Ensriish breed : and until the scab invaded the island of St Ni- nians, it carried a considerable number of sheep of a large kind. It is at present devoted to the grazing of cattle. There has happened a very heavy loss in this parish, of a snug estate that belonged to Alexander Sinclair, Esq. of Brow, all the most valuable part thereof having been blown over with sand, and only some small patches, called outsets or pendicles, now remain- ing. A part of the estate of Sumburgh, which was surrounded with sand, like an oasis in a desert, and which carried a good flock of sheep, is now also so much overspread with sand, that it has not one upon it And a small inlet, which could formerly admit small craft, is now filling up very fast by sand blowing from the waste. Fishing, — Mr Bruce of Sumburgh's tenants are allowed to cure their own fish, which are delivered to him at a certain stipulated price, in their marketable state, and of course his lands are let at an advanced price. But other heritors who have the fish given them by their tenants in a green or uncured state, let their lands at an inferior price. A herring-fishing has, for some years past, been carried on, partly in Dunrossness, but chiefly in the parishes of Sandwick and Cunningsbnrgh, where a number of large boats have been fitted out at great expense. This fishing was begun by the tenants of Mr Bruce of Sumburgh, under his patronage ; and by his resid • ing at Sand Lodge, in the vicinity of the herring stations, he has given them great encourngement. Three or four brigs or sloops arrive annually at Levenwick bay, from Rothsay, and receive the herrings as they are caught, at a stipulated price per cran. Mr Bruce of Bigtown is, with his tenants, embarked in a similar enter- prise. Except at Quendale, Bigtown, and Sumburgh, where ploughs are used, the tenants, having but small portions of land, cultivate their ground with small spades. In Sandwick and Cunningsbnrgh, a few ploughs are used, drawn by small horses. Very little kelp is manufactured in this parish. V. — Parochial Economy. Some years ago, there was a very handsome, substantial, and expensive light-house, erected on the summit of Sumburgh Head, the most southerly promontory in Shetland. The tower is ele- DUxNROSSNESS. 9^ gant, and the mansions of the keepers very neat. The expense, I believe, was about L. 40,000. It is visited annually bv Robert Stevenson, Esq. civil-engineer ; and a yacht comes twice in the year, with stores. Ecclesiastical State, — There are some persons of the Baptist persuasion here, but immersion seems not to be generally attrac- tive : and there are, also, a good number in both parishes, of Weslevan Methodists. The stipend, by decreet of valuation, is L. 200, besides a sum for communion elements ; and the glebe is reckoned good, the soil being of excellent quality: it contains 13 acres of arable ground, and 14 or 15 acres of meadow ; but the pasture is not va- luable. Education. — This parish is much in want of proper schools for the education of the rising generation, there being, besides the pa- rochial, only some private ones kept by young men, employed by the parents at their own expense, and that only for a part of the year, — they betaking themselves to the fishing in summer, as what they earn from teaching does not compensate them. The paro- chial school is stationed in the parish of Sandwick. In Cun- ningsburgh, there are a school appointed by the Society for Pro- pagating Christian Knowledge, and a Sabbath evening school. There are few or none of the people who cannot read. Libraries, — There are two parochial libraries, instituted lately^ one in Cunningsburgh, and the other in Sandwick parish. There is also one in Dunrossness. FueL — No large tracks of moss are here. Had that been the case, peats would not have needed to be transported from a great dis- tance to the southern extremity of the parish, a distance of four or five miles, upon small ponies, by which great expense is incurred* Fair Island. — This island is about 3 miles long and 2 broad. It lies about midway betwixt Orkney and Shetland. On the north-east corner of the island, there is a small harbour ; but ves- sels do not frequent it. There is a large peninsula called Bounness,. which feedsa considerable flock of sheep of the south country breed, and is fenced with a high stone dike across the isthmus. The- houses are all on the southern part of the island. To the north part of the cultivated ground, there is a fence of feal, which shut» it in and protects it from sheep. The names of the towns or ham* lets are, Shirva, Leogh, Bousta, Gelah, Seutter, and Taing. By 96 SHETLAND. the census taken this year, (1841,) there were 35 inhabited houses, occupied by about 35 families : and there were 1 19 males and 1 13 females,^nall 232. A number of years ago, a few families removed to Orkney, — the island being rather overstocked with inhabitants. There are 96 merks of land in the island, besides a few outsets not long occupied. The people had found the prose- cution of the ling and tusk-fishing at a distance from the land, not profitable ; and they now confine themselves to the catching of seath, that being not so dangerous and expensive an operation as the former. Of this about forty tons, in the dried state, have been generally transported to the Lieith market ; which, during the ex- istence of the Government bounty, together with the oil produced, brought a good return. No fish is disposed of to straggling ves- sels that may appear on the coast, the fishermen being bound to deliver their products to the tacksman. What feu*duty is now paid from the island to Lord Dundas I am not aware ; but, instead of L.34 Scotch, formerly paid to the minister as teinds, L.14, Os. lOd. Sterling has been awarded by decreet of the Court, as his proportion of L.200, the stipend of the ministry at present. There remain some unexhausted teinds, which will raise the stipend to nearly L.dOO per annum, when a fresh augmentation shall take place. The number of boats has considerably increased since the time of the last Statistical Account ; and they all lie on the south side of the island, in a creek, where a good many of the cod-fishing sloops belonging to the mainland take shelter, when the weather is unfavourable. The people are sober and industrious ; and most vigorous and expert rowers. The Society for Propagating Christian Know- ledge has granted a salary to a schoolmaster for his exertions in conducting the Sabbath evening school in this island. June 1841 UNITED PARISHES OF SANDSTING AND AITHSTING. PRESBYTERY OF LERWICK, SYNOD OF SHETLAND. THE REV. JOHN BRYDEN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Though the Islands of Hialtland, variously named Hethland, Schetland, Shetland, Shetland, or Zetland, were assigned in wad- sett to the Crown of Scotland nearly five hundred years ago, little more is known of them, generally speaking, than if they had re- mained, to the present day, a pertinent of the Crown of Denmark. That the present inhabitants are of Scandinavian origin, many circumstances tend to prove. The historian, Torphseus, asserts, that these islands were discovered about three hundred and eighty* five years before the birth of our Saviour; but that they might have been inhabited from a much earlier period. ' When Harold Harfagre, King of Norway, landed in Shetland in 875, he found ** Papae;" but these might have presided over the worship of Odin, and directed the rites paid to the Scandina- vian god. It is probable that the Christian religion was not at- tempted to be introduced among the natives till about the begin- ning of the tenth century ; and even then, its progress was very slow. For the Earls, who ruled with despotic sway, and who seU dom acknowledged any superior, longer than they could renounce their allegiance with impunity, uniformly opposed the introduction of Christianity ; till a circumstance took place, about the middle of the tenth century, which brought about its reception and esta- blishment. The King of Norway happening to touch at the islands, invited the reigning Earl and his family on board of his ship, with the determination, it would appear, of converting him and his people to the Christian faith, by argument or force. The invitation being accepted, the King gave the Earl his choice, either to embrace the Christian religion, and be baptised, and thus secure his friendship, or to have his Earldom wrested from hiniy SHETLAND. G 98 SHETLAND. and himself and family put to the sword. The Earl, for a titr.e, Jiesitated as to the choice he should make ; but, seeing the sword about to be plunged into the breast of his son, parental tender- ness overcame his scruples; he renounced the worship of Odin, professed himself a Christian, and was baptised. His people soon after followed his example. Shetland, while subject to the Danish governioent, was govern- ed, in all civil matters, by a judge called ^^ the Grand Foude %** and hence the country was designated by the name of a *^ Foud- rie." This Foudrie was divided into a number of small districts, over each of which was appointed a iubordinate foude, or magis* trate. Tu him was committed the power of judging and deciding in cases of smaller moment, of keeping the peace and of regu- lating weights and measures. In the discharge of these duties, be was assisted by inferior officers, called ^' Ranselmen," and " Law- rightmen." Whoever considered themselves aggrieved by the de- cision of the local foude and his officers, had the power of appeal -to the Grand Foude, who, at his ** lawting," assisted by the " Udal- men," made laws, and determined in all cases of life and death. After the islands were annexed to the Crown of Scotland in 1470, in the reign of James III., their government was usually be- stowed on some Court favourite, who made the most of their preca- rious possession, and whose sway was generally marked with cruel- ty and oppression. Though these rulers were frequently changed, the poor islanders for a long time benefited little by any change which took place. And, while writhing under the yoke of the op- pressor, the knowledge that they were deprived of the means of redress, rendered that yoke still more galling. Even when sub- ject to a milder sway, the acts of former oppressors continued to be felt; and many exactions, equally unjust in themselves, and contrary to express stipulations, were made, and continued to be made; these, by prescription, having now become legal demands. Name, — These united parishes seem to have taken their name from the two bailiwicks or courts of justice held in them ; the one on the Ting or Taing, (a neck of land jutting into the sea, in the vicinity of Sand), hence Sand's Ting; the other similarly situated near Aith ; hence Aith's Ting. Under the chief foude or judge, there were inferior foudes or judges, whose province seems to have been, to hold their courts in places situated at a distance from the principal foudry, or high court, to which appeals were carried. The appointment SANDSTLNO AND AITHSTINO. 99 of sheriff put an end to these courts ; but, it must be admitted, that the municipal regulations by which their proceedings were conducted, were well calculated for preserving good order in the islands. Situation^ Boundary ^ and Extent. — These united parishes are si- tuated in latitude 60® 30', and form the bounds of one ministry. They lie nearly in the middle of the mainland of Shetland, and are bounded on the east, by that part of the parish of Tingwall, called Wiesdale ; on the south and south-west, by the Atlantic Ocean ; on the north-west, by the parish of Walls ; on the north, by a large arm of the sea called the Minn, or Swarback's Minn, separating them from Muckle Roe, an island belonging to the parish of Del- ting; and, on the north-east, they march with Delting on the Mainland. As no regular survey of the parishes has been made, or actual measurement of their extent taken, their dimensions cannot be stated with perfect accuracy ; but their length may be fairly estimated at 10 miles, and their breadth at 8 miles. Topographical Appearances. — These parishes are of an oblong figure, and their greatest length is from north to south, or rather from north north-west to south south east. They abound in knolls, or rising grounds ; but there are no hills of any considerable height in them, neither is there, in any one place, any considerable ex- tent of low level land. The cultivated lands are generally bounded on the one side by the sea, while the occupiers of lands, which are farther inland, have an easy access to the sea, none of them being more distant from it than a mile. All the rising grounds are covered with heather, interspersed with patches of green, on a mossy soil, while the nesses or peninsulas are generally greeu. The parishes abound in moss, which, in many places, is very deep, and which affords abundance of excellent fuel for the people, though it yields not much good pasture for the cattle. The shore on the west side, where it is washed by the Atlantic Ocean, is bold, and in the rocks are many caves, to which the wild pigeons resort. Climate. — A great deal of rain falls, and the air is generally very damp. Notwithstanding, however, the excess of moisture, the country cannot by any means be considered as unhealthy. Though the deep moss, which is the general soil in these parishes, may emit copious exhalations, these do not appear to carry with them any contagious miasmata. But when these exhalations are condensed and converted into hoar-frost, they often do very serious damage 100 SHETLAND. c to the crops. If the corns are Blling, and the potato haulms are green, they never recover. Heavy and long-continued rains frequently fall in every season of the year, but more especially in winter and spring. The hea^ viest rains are from the south and south-west. Yet, while the climate is justly characterised as variable and uncertain, the best proof that these changes are not prejudicial to the health is, that many of the inhabitants enjoy this blessing almost uninterruptedly till an advanced age. I may mention that there are eighteen per^ sons now living in the parish, whose united ages amount to 1552. . Voes or Bays, — The principal voes or bays on the north-west and west are, Gruting, Airs of Selivoc, and Olla's Voes, which lead in between the south point of the Island of Vaila, in the pa« rish of Walls, and the well known land-mark, the burgh of Culs- wick. The entrance is narrow, but deep ; and within, there is nothing to fear, — these three voes or bays being completely land- locked. They are also very extensive, capable of affording an - chorage to ships of any burthen and in any number. Several miles to the southward and eastward, along a bold shore, are the two vo.es of Skeld. The more westerly voe opens to the south, and in it vessels seldom come to an anchor. The entrance to the more easterly voe is narrow, but inside it enlarges into a fine bason with excellent anchorage. By rounding a pretty high headland a little farther east, the entrance into Selivoe and Sand- Voe opens. These voes are se- parated from each other by a small island called Kirk-holm, and a neck of land called Kirk-ness. The more westerly is Selivoe, (which, in the Norwegian language, signifies Herring-voe), which extends a considerable way inland. In any part of it, a vessel may ride in perfect safety. Not even a swell from the ocean is felt here ; and if the anchors and cables are good, the bottom being a stiff blue clay, blow high, blow low, nothing is to be feared. Sand- Voe, on the contrary, is so very open to the south-west, and the ground so very loose, that no vessel would anchor in it unless in fine summer weather, and would hardly risk lying in it over night. Leaving Selivoe, crossing the mouth of Sand- Voe, and passing through a narrow sound between the peninsula Foreness, and the small island Foreholm, Sandsound-Voe opens on the left, and winds in a northerly direction between five and six miles inland. .3 SANDSTINO AND A1TH8TINO. 101 It takes difTerent names according to tlie different places border- ing on it; such as Sandsound-Voe, Tresta-Voe, Bixter-Voe, &c. Entering in from the west, through St Magnus's Bay, and on the north part of Aithsting, is the voe or bay of West Burrafirth, opening to the north, an unsafe harbour, and seldom taken by any vessel. Proceeding east, round the Nien or Ness of Brin- dister, a fine voe opens called the Voe of Brindister, from a vil- lage of that name near its mouth. As it extends inland several miles in a south-westerly direction, it takes the name of Unifirth* Voe, from a village of that name situated on its west bank. It is here studded with several small green holms or islands, and its shores yield the richest, and, for the same extent, the greatest quantity of sea weed for kelp, which is perhaps in the country. In proceeding a little farther east, and rounding a pretty high headland called the Ness of Nunsburgh, the Voe of Clousta opens, running inland about one mile and a -half in a southerly and south-easterly direction. This, as well as the Voe of Brindister, affords excellent anchorage, and in both, vessels can ride in the greatest safety. The west end of the Island of Vementry, with some small grazing holms, lie outside, and in a great measure cover the entrance into this voe. A vessel leaving Clousta Voe and sailing east, must steer outside of the Island of Vementry and through the Minn or Swarback's Minn. There is a passage in- side of the island, that is, between the island and the mainland ; but it is too narrow and shallow unless for boats. A little farther cast, is the Island of Papa Little ; passing be- tween it and a part of the mainland called Aithsness, Aith's-Voe opens to the southward, and East Burrafirth-Voe due east. Aith's- Voe is a very extensive inland harbour, while East Burrafirth-Voe is very smalL Both, however, are perfectly safe. These are the principal voes or harbours in Sandsting and Aithsting. They are excellent in themselves, but their situation renders them comparatively of little benefit either to the public or to individuals. Several of them, however, abound with the largest and finest ovsters which are to be found in the kihofdom. There are also many mussel scaaps or beds in them, which are used as bait for the small fishing ; and in the deeper parts of the voes, is to be found a large mussel called a yoag, which is used as bait by vessels in the cod-fishing. Islands. — The principal islands are, Vementry and Papa Little. There are several other small islands or holms, which are capable 102 SHETLAND. of grazing one or two cows during the summer, or a few sheep ; and some of them yielding grass barely sufficient for supporting an eil-mark* sheep for a few months, in the summer and harvest. Yementry is a htrge island, green on the east end, and cx>vered with heather on the west. It is considered a rich island, and is capable of grazing about twenty score of sheep, besides a propor- tion of black-cattle. It is at present stocked with a heavy breed of sheep, generally of the white-faced kind. It }ields a yearly rent to the proprietor, Mr Gifford of Busta, of upwards of L. 60 Sterling. About one hundred years ago, it was purchased, stocked with fifteen score of sheep, for L. 30 Sterling ; a striking proof how much money has been depreciated, while lands and produce have risen in value. There are three merks of rental land in the island, which was formerly cropped, but which, for these few years back, have been mostly converted into pasture. The greater part of the sheep stock are in steelbow.f The island pays of stipend to the minister, 16s. 6d. Sterling. The Island of Papa Little is neither so rich in quality, nor so extensive as Yementry. It also consists of three merks of rental land, which is cropped by the tenant. It will carry about ten score of sheep, which, till lately, were of the native breed, but are now begun to be crossed with the white and black- faced kinds. But the tenant is of opinion that the island, owing to the want of a sufficiency of good food, is incapable of carrying a heavy breed of sheep. The rental land is of a very good quality, but the pas- ture ground has a very parched appearance, consisting principally of stinted heather. In addition to the sheep stock, the tenant keeps about fifteen head of black-cattle, young and old. The island was some time since held in steelbow, bui it now pays a yearly rent of L.20 to the proprietor. Sir Arthur Nicolson. It pays of stipend to the minister, 13s. 6d. per annum. The sheep in Yementry and Papa Little are free from the scab. Springs, — There are innumerable springs in the parish, of pure and wholesome water, and also many which have passed over bog-iron, and which are strongly impregnated with its tint and taste. Lochs. — There are no fewer than 140 lochs in the parish, • Kil-mark, a beast which no dike will turn, and which cannot be kept out of the corn. t SteeUxjw ; that is the tenant rcceiires a ceruin number of sheep, cows, or horscn, for the use and profits of which he pays a certain sum per head yearly, and at the expiry o\' his lease is bound to Icatc an equal number. 8ANDSTING AND AITH8TINO. 103 some of vliich are of very considerable extent. They are ge- nerally skirted with green, and several of them are studded with islets or holms, on which numerous wild fowls build their nests. The water is very dark* coloured, owing to the mossy nature of the soil through which the rivulets run, which feed the lochs. Geology and Mineralogy.- — Quartzose gneiss abounds in the hill of Russness, on the east side of the voe of Sandsound, and to the southward of a village of that name. It contains a great quantity of quartz and of light-coloured mica. The line of bearing may be stated on an average from south 12° west, to north 12° east The dip is to the west, at angles most frequently from 70° and up- wards. The position of the strata is sometimes vertical. The rocks in Foreness (a peninsula to the southward of Inner- sand, and lying between Sand-voe and Sandsound-voe,) partake of the common description of gneiss, the felspar being in excess, the other ingredients being present, and the strata traversed by small veins of granite. At Berfield, (a little above Sandsound, on the east side of the voe,) talc takes the place of mica, not only in the gneiss, but also in the granitic veins. A little to the northward of Innersand, on the west side of the voe of Sandsound, a quarry of chromate of iron was opened some years ago. But though several tons of it have at different times been sent to market, the quality of it, and the returns made, did not warrant a continued working of it. I have seen several large imbedded masses of chromate of iron at Garden, in Aithsting. These are the only places in the parish, where it has been disco- vered. A little to the north of the chromate quarry, limestone makes its appearance. At a burn called Tactagill, about a mile to the eastward of Tresta, which is situated on the eastern bank of a continuation of Sandsound-voe, here called Tresta- voe, a great quantity of por- celain earth, of a yellowish white colour, is to be found. Rocks of gneiss, of which white quartz is one of the component parts, blended with talc and felspar, extend from Reawickness to Kirk- ness, and the west shore of Bixter-voe, being a continuation of Sandsound voe. The directions of the strata are from south 15^ west, to north 15'' east, and from south 20^ west, to north 20** east Several interstrata of limestone make their appearance, in a line of direction nearly parallel to that of the strata among which they occur. Limestone appears in Kirkholm, Kirkness, (both on 104 SHETLAND. the east side of Selivoe,) and on the west side ofBixtervoe. The predominating rocks, in a line from Reawick, along the west bank of Selivoe to the west bank of Blxter voe, are red granite, which comprehends all Sandsting to the west. It contains veins of quartz, and, of course, very red felspar. The quartz rock of Aithsting is of a bluish grey colour, and presents something of a wedge-like shape. The two bounding* lines diverging fron> a point in the island of Papa Little, are con- tinued in a direction of south 60"" west, to the westward; whilst the other extends in a straight line south 32^ west, to the head of Bixter-voe, when it first comes in contact with the granite of Sand- sting. The quartz admits into its composition so much felspar, that in decomposed specimens, where this ingredient is particular- ly demonstrated, it is sufficiently distinguished from the sandstone of newer formations, which it otherwise resembles. Siliceous mat- ter is, however, the prevalent substance. In the vicinity of Aiths- ness, it contains small sparing portions of clayslate, by which it becomes the grauwacke of some authors. At Papa Little, Aiths- ness, Clousta-voe, Nunsburgh, and West Burrafirth, the rock is, in several places, varied by the presence of small angular portions of red felspar, and passes into felspar porphyry. At Aithsness, it contains greenstone as well as limestone, in the form of thin beds or veins. It is also impregnated with much ferruginous, in the shape of an oxide. In some places, are to be observed veins of sparry iron-ore. The quartz rock generally consists of minute grains firmly unit- ed together, and possessing semicrystalline forms. In thb respect it differs from a particular variety of sandstone found on the east side of the island, where the texture is much looser, and where the grains show numerous marks of attrition. South of the hill of Aithsness, and at a few other places, the particles of quartz di- minish so much in size, that the rock appears of a compact struc- ture. The stratification of the quartz rock seems remarkably connect- ed with the partial occurrence of mica, whilst its line of direction docs not follow that of other mountain masses of Shetland, which have been represented as stretching from south by west, to north by east On the contrary, it extends from south 60° east, to north 60° west, from east to west, and from south 70° west, to north 70° east. The dip is at various points of the compass, while the angle of inclination is, as appears in an horizontal section, SANOSTING AN1> AITHSTING. 105 from 40"" to 45°. In several places, the quartz is decidedly unstra- titled, and yields to blows of the hammer equally in various direc- tions ; but whether stratified or unstratified, it is resolved by other seams into polyedrous masses of various magnitudes. At the north voe of Clousta, there occurs, resting on the quartz, a small roundish conglomerated mass of granite, felspar, and quartz, scarcely, perhaps, more than 150 yards in diameter; a gradual transition of one rock into the other being observable at the junction. A few of the conglomerate strata next to those of the quartz, range at a common angle of 45*. But crossing the strata for a few yards only, they gradually 'acquire an inclination with the horizon of only 10% and maintaining this position, they are terminated. Now, there is every reason to suppose, that the lower edges of the strata of the conglomerate rock are in contact with the surface formed by the upper edges of quartz. This change of inclination, therefore, from 45° to 10% can be satisfac- torily accounted for, on the supposition that the strata had acquir- ed an addition of new matter in their descent, which may either consist in an increased thickness of the strata, or in an accession of new strata. It is thus that the increased accumulation of mat- ter which the strata may possibly have received in proportion to their depth, would produce an elevation of the uppermost strata. The quartz rock of Aithsting passes into the granite rock of Sandsting, at the head of Bixter-voe, by gradually losing its homo- geneous appearance, and by its ingredients being interspersed in a distinct form of larger grains or concretions, until the rock is at length wholly composed of seroicry stall ine portions of quartz and felspar. Occasionally, however, an alternation takes place of the two rocks. To the north of Bixter-voe, the quartz rock is contiguous to gneiss ; but the junction is, for the most part, much concealed by a deep moss. At Braganess, (to the north-west of Aithsness,) the line of demarcation between the two rocks is per- fectly complete, no transition taking place. The quartz rock is elevated into numerous irregular ridges, not above 600 or 700 feet high, mnnmg from east to west, and inter- sected by valleys. Much of the surface of the quartz rock is concealed by a deep peat moss ; but everywhere, a great display of bog iron is presented. The strata of gneiss which, from the island of Papa Little along the north coast of Aithsting, for a distance of upwards of five 106 SHETLAND. mike due west, are so associated with hornblende slate, and inti* mately combined with the panicles of hornblende, that Dr Hib- bert has ^iven to the rock the name of hornblendic gneiss. ^* In most specimens," says he, ^* which we examine, the hornblende is either openly manifested, or is in such an intimate state of union with the felspar, as to impart to this ingredient of the rock a green- ish tinge." The other ingredients of quartz, felspar, and mica are, as in all other varieties of gneiss, described to be found in very different proportions. The gneiss, at th#Nien or Ness of Brindister, is traversed with a vein of granite of very considerable size, being not less than 45 feet broad, and running from south-west by south to north-east by north. At Vementry, the veins of granite are particularly tortu* ous, and ramify in the most remarkable manner. Besides granite, veins of quartz, compact felspar, felspar-por- phyry, greenstone, or sienitic greenstone, are often seen. Thin interstrata, of very pure limestone, are to be seen at Braganess, West Burrafirth, and other places. The granitic veins which tra- verse them, are often diverted from their course in the most re- markable manner, showing great signs of distortion. The presence of beds of hornblende slate, or of intermixed par- ticles of hornblende, has a strong tendency to disturb the strata among which they appear. On this account, any general state- ment of the most prevalent line of direction would be impossible. The direction, which may possibly be the most prevalent, has been found to be from south -west by south to north-east by north. The dip was mostly to the west, at angles from 50° to TO"*. The relations of the strata are much concealed by the sea. At Vementry and Braganess, the line of direction stretches from the bluish-grey quartz rock, near Aithsness, to the granite of Vemen- try ; consequently, the strata are opposed to the bounding lines of each of these masses, at various angles. More westerly, they only meet, under similar circumstances, the quartz rocks of this dis- trict. The invasions which take place, in the form of dikes or veins, from the contiguous mountains of granite, both in the south end of the Island of Meikle Roe and in the west end of Vemen- try, are very large, and are particularly seen near the junction of the gneiss and granite in the neighbourhood of the dwelling-house in Vementry. I have frequently found, on the shore, pieces of pumice stone, which, from its small specific gravity, readily floats on the water : SANDSTINO AND AITHSTINO. 107 these specimeDs, it is probable, were driven here from the volcanic rocks of Iceland. I have also picked up, at different times several Molucca beans, the production of the West Indies ; and have seen some of the larger ones of them converted into snuff-boxes, having a top of lead or pewter affixed to them.* The soil, in a very few places, is sandy ; in some, clay ; in others, a light brown mould ; but, in the greater part of the pa- rish, it consists of a deep black moss. In cold seasons, particu- larly in the month of May and beginning of June, the grub worm often does great damage to the corns, by destroying the roots. In 1829, I sowed a small quantity of buck wheat on the glebe, which presented a very fine appearance, till it was in blossom, when the grub attacked it, and did not leave a single stalk. Zoology, — The fresh water lakes abound with that species of trout usually known by the name of the burn-trout, some of which I have caught weighing upwards of six pounds. The sea-trout and the burn-trout enter the burns to spawn in August or September, according to the time when the rains have swelled the burns. If the weather has been fine, and falls of rain, it is very interesting to observe the anxiety which the trouts manifest to fulfil their des- tination. They leap about the mouth of the burn, where it emp- ties itself into the sea, and show distinctly that they know their particular season; and, in their eagerness to gain this end, they frequently run into shallow water, and are taken. Trouts are often taken by setting a net across the mouth of the bum, where it empties itself into the sea, at the time of the tide of flood ; and, when it has ebbed sufficiently, they are an easy prey, — being either entangled in the net, or left without the means of escape. There is another method which is often had recourse to for the same purpose, viz. " the houvie." The houvie is made of the stalks of the dock, wide at the one end, and narrow at the other. A dike U built across the burn, leaving an open space in the middle sufficient to admit the wider end of the houvie. After the houvie is firmly placed in this open space, a person, with a stick in his hand, wades down the burn, and drives the trouts be- fore him. Having entered the houvie and reached its narrow end, they cannot turn to get out again. In most of the friths or voes, there are haddocks, whitings, cod- * In my account of the Geology and Mineralogy of Sandsting and Aithsting, I* acknowledge my obligations to Dr Hibbert. 108 SHETLAND. lings, flounders^ haTibut^ skate, mackerel, and herrings in summer and harvest, and the cole-fish or seath, with its numerous fry call- ed sillocks and piltoeks. The sillocks do not exceed six inches in length the 6rst year, and are known by this name till they have drunk of the first tide of summer, after which they take the name of piltoeks, and will be found from ten to twelve inches long. When two years old, they are called bilyia piltoeks ; when three years old, Steven piltoeks; and afterwards they are known by the name of seath. The seath-fishing is not prosecuted in this parish. Shell-fish of every kind are to be found in the voes or friths ; oysters, large mussel or yoag, common mussel, spouts or razor- fish, cockles, smisslings, cullicks, welks, buckies, limpets, crabs, lobsters, harps, &c. Botany. — Under this head I may observe, that wherever the moss is so deep as to admit of peats being taken, roots and branches of the birch and hazel have very frequently been dug up. The mountain-ash or rowan-^tree, the hazel, the honeysuckle, the hip- brier, and willow, are natives in many of the islets or holms in the fresh water lochs. In any other situations, I believe, they could not exist; for horses, cows, and sheep, browse upon and destroy every thing that comes in their way, when they are hard pressed for food. And this may be the reason why plants of this description, and, perhaps, others have disappeared from the common range of pasture. That trees will grow and attain a considerable size, if properly sheltered and defended from man and beast, I have abundant proof. In my garden a native mountain-ash has attained to such an height, that crows have built a nest in it And a bower or elder tree also grows in my garden, graced with a crow's nest. In the garden at Sand, formerly the seat of Sir John Mitchell of Westshore, there are plane, ash, elder, rowan, and hawthorn-trees, of considerable size. It may be remarked, that, if plantations are ever attempted, they must be on a large scale, so that the plants may afford shelter to each other; and they must also be protected by a wall, which could not only defend from the encroachments of cattle, but which would also be proof against the inroads of man. For a shrub of the size of a walking-stick, a flail-tree, or a fishing-rod, would prove a tempta- tion too strong for the moral courage of a Shetlander to resist. The apple-tree blossoms, and carries fruit ; but I have never seen it come to perfection. It is different, however, with the smaller fruits. The gooseberry, the black, red, and white cur- SANDSTINO AND AITHSTINO. 109 rants, thrive well, and in good seasons come to perfection, and are particularly fine*flavoured. Strawberries in the gardens, and craw-berries on the bills, ripen well and are abundant Rhubarb, mint, and every kind of vegetable usually raised in the kitchen* garden, are raised here in perfection. II. — Civil Historit. Land- oumers. — Merks. The Right Hon. Lord Dundas is patron of the parish, and proprietor of 65 Andrew Grierson of Qucndale, ..... 241 1 John Scott of Scalloway, ..... 204} Arthur GiSbrd of Biista, . . . . . .874 James Greig of Garderhouse, ..... 60$ Andrew Umphray of Reawick, i • . . . 494 Smith of Greenland, . . i . . 10 Andrew Irvine of Lerwick, ..... 9 Thomas Henry of Burrastow, ..... 9 James Mitchell, Sandsound, • • . • • 4 Sir Arthur Nicolson of Lochend, .... 8 John Chcyne of Tanwick, ••.... 8 Robert Doull of Fogregirth, ..... 8 Laurence Redland, Wester Skeld, . . , . • -24 Andrew Redland, Scarvister, ..... 2 Dr James Soott, ....... 17 Anthony Doull, Brindister, ..... 6 Glebe, ..... 9 merks Total merks, 777 There are no resident heritors, unless Robert Doull, James Mitchell, Laurence Redland, Andrew Redland, and Anthony Doul, Brindister. Parochial Registers. — The acts or minutes of session commence in 1733, and are contained in one volume. They appear to have been regularly kept from that period, till about 1765 ; but between the death or demission of one minister and the admission of ano- ther, little care seems to have been taken of the register ; so that now, it is in a very shattered and imperfect state. Antiquities. — The small island, called Kirk-holm, in the mouth of Selivoe, presents every appearance of having at one time been put in a state of defence. A breastwork of earth round the most accessible parts of the island, t. e. on the west, north, and part of the east sides, is still visible ; and the foundations of nine houses, for the accommodation of those who may have fortified themselves in it, can also be traced. Two of the houses, which have been erected at the north end of the holm, stood north and south, with their door towards the west, and measure each 36 feet long by 12 feet broad inside. At a distance of 42 feet to the southward, is the foundation of another house of 28 feet long 110 SHETLAND. by 10 feet wide, standing east and west, with the door towards the north ; and at a distance of 4*2 feet to the southward of this last-mentioned house, is the first of six houses more, which six houses stand parallel to each other, and in the direction of east and west, with their doors towards the north. All the houses are separated from each other ; but the intermediate space between them appears to have been no more than sufficient to have ad- mitted one person. The doors have been 3 feet wide. As there are no springs of water in the holm, a tank or re- servoir appears to have been formed for the reception of rain- water, or of water brought from the adjoining ness.* There are five burying places in the parish, viz. at Sand, West Skeld and Grutin^ in Sandsting, and at Twatt and Aith in Aith- sting. Though at two of them only, viz. Sand and Twatt, is it certain that churches have been built, yet it is more than pro- bable that, while the Roman Catholic religion flourished in the islands, there have been churches or chapels in the immediate neighbourhood of them all. In addition to the church or chapel aud burying-ground at West Skeld, there are the ruins of a burgh or fort. From the ruins which still appear, we are warranted to infer, that it was a place of very considerable dimensions ; but what these were, or in what form the burgh itself was constructed, can- not now be ascertained. It was built of blocks of red granite, without cement. In the eighth century, and while defended by a band of brave and trusty warriors, we may suppose it affording protection to the lives, and the goods and gear of the udalmeti around ; but in the nineteenth century, its venerable ruins may be * Tradition says, that in 1568, one of the Spanish Armada wa^ lost in what is called the deeps or haddock-sand, a few miles to the southward, that the crew took shelter in the holm, and that they fortified themselves in it. till they should know the reception they were likely to receive from the natives. This tradition is support- ed by the fact, that a particular spot where the fishermen set their lines, and where the ship is said to have foundered, is known to the present time by the name of the ship. Tradition farther says that, in gratitude for their preservation, and the friend- ly reception they met with, the crew built a church at Sand, about a mile and a half Irora the holm, and dedicated it to the Blessed Virgin. It appears to have been a very neat and substantial building, with a chancel or choir on the east end, separated from the body of the church by an arch extending from one side to the other. There does not appear to have been any hewn stones made use of in the building ; but such stones as had the plainest and smoothest surface were placed on the outer and inner sides of the walls,— -the heart of the wall filled witn boulder or round stones, and ce. ment, apparently of burnt shells, and of thin consistence, and all the empty spaces completely filled up. The roof was thatched. After the Reformation extend- ed itself to Sandsting about 1600, the kirk at Sand was converted into a Protest- ant church. Between 1760 and 1770, this church was allowed to fall into a state of great disrepair. What the lairds, or the people, or both, in the first instance pre- served, the fury of the ocean has been fast destroying. The chancel or choir is near- ly washed away. SANDSTING AND AITHSTINO 111 seen stuck up in the walls of the dwelling-houses, office-houses, yard dikes, &c. of fifteen families in the village. About a mile to the westward of the two Culswicks, and on the summit of a precipitous cliff of red granite, of several hundred feet in height, stands a burgh, or rather the ruins of a burgh, which still, though recently demolished, presents the appearance of hav- ing been in former days a place of very great strength.* A burgh, built on a low neck of land, and formerly surrounded by the sea, is to be seen immediately below the present dwelling- houses of Nunsbur^rh. Another burgh stands in the middle of the voe of East Burra- firth, a few hundred yards from its mouth, and opposite the dwel- ling-houses. Whether this burgh was built on an islet or a foun- dation forced for it, I cannot say. The voe is not deep where it stands, and there is no spare space around it. There are several other ruins in the parish ; but, as all of them are to be met with on the tops of rising grounds only, the most probable conjecture regarding them is, that they have been watch- towers : and this conjecture is supported by the name given to the particular spots which these ruins occupy, — for instance, *^ the wart" (which, no doubt, is a corruption of ward) of Reawick;- " the wart" of Brouland, &c. In his notices of Shetland, Mr Pennant observes, *' that the Norwegians had anciently their ward-madher or watchman, a sort of sentinel who stood on the top of a vord-hill, and challenged all who came in sight." We know that it is customary with foreign- ers to change w into v, — thus, ward, vard or vord, Shetlandice, wart. There are several tall unhewn stones standing in different parts of the parish.-f- The purpose of these cannot be stated with cer- tainty. * See description of this burgh by Dr Hibbert. t I may mention the tradition respecting two standing stones in the neighbour- hood of West Slceld, which will show bow little credit is to be given to tradition when unsupported by some collateral evidence. These two stones are said to be the metamorphosis of two wizards or giants, who were on their way to plunder and mur- der the inhabitaiiu of West Skeld ; but, not having calculated their time with suffi- cient accuracy, before they could accomplish their purpose, or retrace their steps to their dark abodes, the first rays of the morning sun appeared, and they were imme- diately transformed, and remain to the present time in the shape of two tall moss- grown stones of ten feet in height. All the ancient buildings which have been erect- ed, and large stones which have been raised upright, about which there is no parti- cular tradition, are uniformly ascribed to the agency of the Picts, or Pedits, as they are called, or to evil spirits. Since writing my account of the antiquities of the parish, I have been put in pos- 112 SHETLAND. Barrows or Tumuli. — In several parts of the parish, there are the remains of several barrows or tumuli, probably of Scandina* vian origin, some of which I have opened, but could not congratu- late myself on my researches, they having been opened before. In some, I have found bones partly consumed by fire, pieces of charred wood, and parts of the urn m which the bones had been deposited. The urns appeared to have been rudely wrought out of a coarse sandstone, and others out of a soft stone called kleber. In some cases, there is every reason to believe that the body had been burned at the spot where the ashes had been collected, and placed in the urn ; because the stones which were found to surround the urn, over which the tumulus was raised, had been subjected to the action of a strong fire. In other cases, the urns have been placed on a dry piece of ground, covered with a flat stone, and a little earth thrown over them. Of this latter description I have one in my possession, which I found under the foundation of the glebe dike. It measures 12 inches over the mouth, 10 inches over the bottom, and is 10 inches deep. It contained a quantity of half- burnt bones, and was covered with a pretty heavy stone, flat on the side next to the urn. Unfortunately, it was partly broken be- fore I discovered it. There is, however, enough remaining to show its shape and workmanship. I have discovered two other urns on the glebe, filled with a black unctuous earth, but so much decayed, that no part of them could be lifted. Out of one of them I removed the earth, and found, lying at right angles in the bottom, four pieces of broken stone axes.* session of a quern or hanrUmill, dug out of the ruins of the burgh at Easter Skeld. It is 13 inches in diameter, and 2^ inches in thickness. It appears to hare been formed in the same way as the hand-mills now are, or rather it has been the model by which they have been made. It has groups or grooTcs cut for the sile to rest in, and an hole for the handle. I have recovered the half only of the under stone, the dimensions of which have exceeded a little those of the upper stone. They are both made of the same kind of stone (micaceous schistus) as the millstones now In use arc made of. * I subjoin Dr Hibbert*8 description of these instruments, and then add the obser. vations I have to offer : — " The ancient weapons of war discovered in Shetland are of stone. That such were used by tlic Teutonic tribes of Europe in the eighth century, and probably very long before, is evident from the fragment of a prose- romance written about that pe- riod, in the Saxon dialect of the Teutonic. Tliis manuscript, which is preserved in Cassel, was first printed in Eccardi Comment, de rebus Francias Orientalis, and it has been reprinted with a Latin and English translation, in an interesting work lately published in Edinburgh, entitled, <* illustrations of Northern Antiquities.*' From this very curious document, two or three disjoined passages may be given, by which wc may see the reference wbicli is made to the Teutonic burgh, and to the arms con- temporary with this early kind of fortress:— 1< I heard it related that Hiitibrant and Ilatubrant with one mind agreed to go on a warlike expedition. Tlie relatives (sons SANDSTING AND AITHSTING. 113 Modern Buildings — Churches. — From the time of the Reforma- tion till the year 1780^ there were two churches in the parish, viz. one of the same fiither) made ready their horses, prepared their war-shirts* (shirts of mail), girded on their swords (which were fastened) at the hilt with chains. " well give i|ow, (turn thou this to good) wielding God, quoth Hilti« brand, whose word is done. I wandered summers and winters sixty out of (my) land ; there they detached me among shooting people (archers) ; never in any bur^, (city, castle), fiuten^ they my le^; (but) now my nearest relation will hew my neck with his bill, (battle-axe) or I entangle his legs, (tie him like a captive.) ** said Hiltibrand.— .Good fellow citisens, bejudges who it be that this day must quit the field of battle, or who will have both these brunics (hauberks) in bis possession. ** Then they first let ashen (spears) fiy with rapid force, that they stuck in the shields. ^ Then they thrust together, resounding stone-axes ; they wrathfuUy heaved white shields.** — Illustraticns of Northern Antiquities. These extracts, from a coraponition of so remote a date as the eighth century, may be considered as illustrative of the general mode of waifare adopted at that time by the Saxon and Scandinavian tribes of Europe, among whom a greater similarity of Ian* guage and manners then prevailed, than was to be found at a later period. The first of the offensive arms of the Teutones of the eighth century was the Battle>axe. 1 1 ap- pears that these axes were constructed of stone. The heroes of the Teutonic romance are said to have *< thrust together resounding stone-axes ;** these weapons being ex- pressed in the original by the term Staimbort, from Stein, a stone, and Barte or Barde, an axe. In Shetland, numbers of stone axes have been discovered, which are wrought from a remarkably compact green porphyry, probably derived from Scandinavia. I n a note, the Doctor remarks, ^* the stone contains, along with quartx, a considerable portion of felspar in its composition, and probably some little magnesian earth ; it re- sembles a rock that 1 have seen associated with serpentine, as well as a substance that is used in the construction of some of the stone hatchets of the South Sea Islands.** In form, the Shetland steinbarte, or stone axe, is of two varieties ; it is either single or double edged. . Single-edged Steinbarte. — This variety has one cutting-edge, generally of a semilunar outline, and tapering from opposite points to a blunted extremity or heel. In some spe- cimens, both sides are convex ; in others, one side only, the other being Battened. All the edges, except the broad sharpened margin^ are bluntly rounded off. The single* edged stone axes of Shetland vary much in their dimensions, being from four to eight or ten inches in length; their breadth proportionally differing. AVhen the Shetland steinbarte was used in war, its blunt tapering eitremity may be supposed to have been introduced within the perforation made into some wooden or bone haft, and afterwards secured by overlapping cords, formed of thongs of leather or of the en- trails of some animal ; twine of hemp not being then in use. Another kind of steiu« barte has been said to occur in Shetland, the sharp edge of which describes the seg- ment of a circle, whilst the chord of the outline is thickened like the back of a knire. Probably its blunt edge was fixed within the groove of a wooden or bone handle, so as to form a single-edged cutting instrument. Double-edged Steinbarte, — The blade of this instrument is a stone completely flat- tened on each of its sides, and not more than the tenth of an inch thick ; it is of an ob- long shape, having one blunted margin perfectly straight, and when the stone is held in such a position that the dull edge is the uppermost, we have the form of a blade presented, in which the two narrow edges are irregularly rounded off at their angles, so that one edge is much broader than the other. Every part of the margin but that which constitutes the summit of the outline is shaipened ; by which means, there is a great addition made to the extent of the cutting edge. The blade is five inches and a-half long, and from three to four broad. Mallet, in his Hbtory of Denmark, de« scribes a battle axe of two edges, as used by the ancient Scandinavians, and he adds, that, when it was fixed to a long pole, it constituted a halbert. In reference to this observation, I have supposed a long staff with the extremity so penetrated at one or two inches from the summit, as to form a long groove four inches in length, through which the stone blade with the blunt side kept uppermost, may be drawn half-way, and then secured to its station by means of cross ligatures. Tlie whole would then present the form of a two-edged battle-axe. Antiquaries have remarked that this weapon was probably in use from the earliest period ; but since it was in the course of time wielded by the Trabants, or those who stood upon guard in the castles of their SHETLAND. H 114 SHETLAND. at Sand in Sandsting, and another at Twalt in Aithsting. The minis* ter officiated at each every alternate Sabbath. The present kirk was kings, it was named a halbert, from the Teutonic, ?uile, a court, and hardey an axe. In the true spirit, therefore, of archaiological reasoning, it may be pronounced that the blade of this yaricty of the Shetland steinbarte and the hypothetical handle to which it is fastened, constitute the rude form of the northern halbert. The blades of steinbartes are Tery abundantly found in Shetland. Not unfreqBent- ly, several of them are discovered buried together, thus indicating a little armoury, from which a number of weapons might be distributed on an emergency, by the hand of some chief to a small band of natives met together, on the alarm of common danj^er. Assemblages of these weapons have been found in the parishes of Walls, of Delting, and in the Island of Unst. In Northmavine, says Mr Low of Orkney, seven were discovered under ground, disposed in a circular arrangement, with the points of each directed towards the centre of the ring : — it is a pity that the number of these wea- pons was not nine, corresponding to the nine wounds of a lance in the form of a cir- cle, which the deified Scandinavian hero Odin gave himself, when, by an act of sui- cide, he showed an eiample of death to his surrounding followers. At any rate) the circular arrangement of the weapons remains, indicative of a mystical allusion, and that is quite sufficient to provoke an antiquarian inference. Regarding the people by whom these stone-axes were used, the natives of Shetland have not the least tradition, and this circumstance is a proof of their great antiquity. They are supposed to have dropt from the clouds, endowed with the power of pro- tecting the houses in which they are preserved from the effects of thunder ; hence they arc commonly named thunder-bolts, &c.—- Iter ii. Some of the stone-axes, as Dr Hihbert observes* are of green porphyry, but I have seen some of them fbnned out of a remarkably compact grey -coloured stone. And even the green porphyry in some of them, from a particular chemical action to which they have been expcMed, have, in a great measure, lost their distinguishing tint, and become of a whitish grey- colour. I have specimens of the stone axe of various dimensions, from 5^ inches to 6, 8, 10, and 15 inches in length. The cutting edge of the smallest is two inches, and of the largest 8^ inches broad ; and they gradually taper to a point at the oppo- site extremity. All the specimens in my possession are convex on both sides, but more so on the one side than on the other. I have some steinbarte of an oval figure, and others of an heart-shape, with the apex considerably shortened, both formed of the two kinds of stone above mentioned. I'hu largest of the oval ones is 8^ inches long, and 4 inches deep. The cutting edge extends to two-thirds of its circumference, and the remaining third is rounded off, apparently fur the purpose of holding in the hand. The heart-shaped one has a cut- ting edge in every part. I have one different in shape from either of these two ; it describes almost a semicircle on the one end, and draws towards a point at the other. The semicircle, and as far as the point have cutting edges ; the back is half an inch thick, nearly straight, and rounded off. Several stone axes, on removing the surface of the ground, were found lying together, a short time ago, within the dikes of Sto- nadalc. It Iiai been maintained* that the larger steinbartes were used as warlike weapons. This may have been the case ; but that they were inserted in an haffc or handle, ap. pears to me very doubtful. Prom their tapering shape, no thong could have secured them in such a position, and having no neck which the handle might grasp, the act of lifting it to give a blow, would even be sufficient to cause it slip from its place. Neither is any proof to be deduced from the appearance of the tliin and broad - shaped steinbartes, that they ever were used as halberts. To have rendered them ef- ficient as a weapon of war, not only must the haft have been grooved, but there ought also to have been a corresponding groove in the steinbarte, to retain it in its place, something afler the manner of dove-tailing in wood. As there are no marks indicating this to have been the case, the steinbarte ought to have been perforated that it might have been firmly secured in the groove of the handle. The larger steinbarte may have been used both as an offensive and a defensive wea- pon ; either by throwing it from the hand, or striking with it, when the combatants came to close quarters — and the smaller steinbarte, it is probable, was formerly used for domestic purposes, and held a similar place in the eighth or ninth century, which a knife does in the nineteenth. That they are a very ancient instrument is without SANDSTING AND AITHSTINO. 1 16 built in 1780, and was intended as a centrical kirk for the whole ministry. To have been so it ought to have been placed at CEfirth, about two miles farther north. It is seated to accommodate 437 persons, allowing about sixteen inches to each person. Mansion^Houses, — The mansion*houses of proprietors are only three in number, viz. Sand House, Garder House, and Reawick. Sand House was built in 1754 by Sir Andrew Mitchell of West- shore, Bart* The house, gardens, &c. have been, for about forty years, the property of the present John Scott, Esq. of Scalloway ; but they are fast falling into ruins. Garder House, a miniature resemblance of Sand House, was built by John Gumming, son of one of the ministers of the parish, about 1760, on four merks of land, rented for many years after at L.4 Sterling per annum. It is now the property of James Greig, Esq. writer in Lerwick. Reawick is a plain modern building of six rooms, the property of Andrew Umphray, Esq. a minor. Milk. — There are about fifty mills in the parish driven by wa- ter, and querns or hand-mills without number. Ploughs. — When my predecessor, the Rev. Patrick Barclay, wrote his Statistical Account of the parish in 1797, there were fourteen ploughs, of a construction peculiar to Shetland, in the parish. There is not one of that description in it now, and they are fast falling into disuse throughout the island* III. — Population. In 1793, the population was 967 1755, . . 911 1775, . 1223 1792, 1285 1801, 1493 1811, . 1617 1821, 1884 1831, 2177 doubt ; for even tradition itself is silent, both as to the time when and the people by whom they were used. * At that time it must have been a very elegant house with two wings, and the re- quisite office houses. In front, and extending the length of the house, is a flower plot, on each side of which is a garden of considerable extent, which has been tastefully laid out in a line with the outer walls of the gardens, and towards the head o\ the voe, is an enclosure of about three acres. The beautiful old castle of Scalloway, built by Earl Patrick Stewart about 1600, was spoiled of much of ite ancient gran- deur, by having ite dreraed freestones torn from their place, to supply door and win- dow jambs and lintels, and corner stones for this mansion. But the spoliulion of the castle, though ite foundation was laid in blood, and every stone of iu walls told of oppression, was not permitted to proceed without a fearful warning. While the work of demolition was busily going on, a voice, it is said, was heard to declare* *^ They might pull down and build up, but the fourth generation should never inha* bit! 116 SHETLAND. No. of males under 7 years of age, 229 No. of females under 7 years of age, 221 from 7 to 15, 192 from 7 to 15, 196 15 to 90, 256 15tod0, 268 a0to50, 201 a0to50, 264 50 to 70, 96 50 to 70, 151 above 70, 39 above 70, . 99 Bachelors and widowers above 50, 21 1086 1141 The number of births during tbe last seven years is . 191 deaths do. do. . . 148 marriages do. do. . . 92 fatuous persons, . . .12 deaf and dumb, • • .2 fiunilies, .... 425 inhabited houses, * • 277 No family of distinction or of independent fortune resides in the parish, and of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L.50 and upwards, — there are six. Character^ ^c. of the People. — The people in general are of the middle stature, and well-proportioned, having brown or yellow hair. Their features are rather small than otherwise, of an agreeable expression, and have nothing of that harshness which is character ristic of the Anglo-Saxon descent. Both sexes manifest an insati- able curiosity for prying into the concerns of others ; and with an acuteness scarcely to be credited, and a perseverance worthy of a better object. When the direct question and sly insinuation have failed, nothing daunted they will renew their efforts, and, if still unsuccessful, they will substitute their own conjectures for the in- formation withheld. They are hospitable to a proverb, and would share their last morsel with their neighbour, or even with a stranger whom they had never before seen. They have a gre?it volubility of speech, and are no mean adepts in flattery, when they think it will promote their particular views. Though many carry their passion for dress to an unbecoming and even an extravagant length, it gives me much pleasure to bear testimony to their general sobriety of con- duct, and attention to the external ordinances of religion. They may, with truth, be said to be a church-going people, and I trust many of them have felt the power of religion, are living under its influence, " and asking the way to Zion with their faces thither- ward." IV. — Industry. Arable Lands. — There are 777 merks of arable lands in these united parishes ; but the extent of a merk of land cannot now be as- certained. Originally it must have been very small, and have com- SANDSTIN6 AND AITHSTINO. 117 prehended the infield or bear-land only. From the additions made by successive tenants, the merk of land has increased, in many cases, to eight or ten times its original extent. Besides the original arable land, and the successive additions made to it, there are no fewer than one hundred and four " outsetts" in the pa- rishes ; that is, when a tenant finds himself unable to pay his former rent, or when a newly married couple can obtain land in no other way, they fix upon some particular spot in the common pasture, — obtain leave from the principal proprietor of the nearest arable lands, and enclose as much ground as they think will sup- port their family ; and such an enclosure is called ^^ an outsett." Sometimes, the proprietor buildd the dwelling-house and dikes, and charges rent from the time of entry ; at other times, the tenant builds these, and sits rent free, for seven or nine years. Agriculture. — Agriculture may justly be said to be in its infancy in the parish ; and as long as the landlords continue to reduce the farms to the least possible size, no improvements can be expected. Farms which formerly were possessed by one or two tenants, are now occupied by five or six. There are only three ploughs in the parish, — one on the glebe, drawn by two oxen ; one in Reawick, and one in the island of Papa-Little, each drawn by four ponies. The plough used on the glebe is of Small's make ; the other two are made in Lerwick, after a pattern by Morton, Leith-walk. The Shetland plough, so minutely described by my predecessor, the Rev. Patrick Barclay, in his Statistical Account of the parish, is not now used. All the lands in the parish, with the exception of those just mentioned, are turned over with a small spade peculiar to the country. The harrows in general use are made of two pa^ rallel pieces of wood, about three feet long, with from eight to ten wooden teeth in each piece, and are connected at the ends by a cross bar of eighteen inches long. These are drawn by a man or woman, with a rope tied to each end of one of the parallel pieces or sides. There are some lands in the parish, on which even a wooden harrow has never been used. Instead of which, after the ground is delved, sown, and manured, a besom of heather is pro- cured, and a person sweeps mould, seed, and manure overhead. Crops. — The crops raised are potatoes, oats, and bear or big ; and the old distinction of infield and outfield is still continued. On the infield-land bear (having four or six rows of grain on the head) is sowed year after year, if we except as much of it as will grow the one-half of the potatoes the family may require. The 118 SHETLAND. infield, when laboured for a crop of bear, is always well maDured, from a compost of cow's dung, earth, and sea-weed, when it can be got, prepared during the previous summer and harvest, and laid on the top and turned under. Dung is very seldom laid on that part of the infield which is laboured for potatoes, from an opi* nion that the potatoes are softer and more watery when the land has been dunged, than otherwise. By this management, it is evi- dent that the land must be greatly exhausted, and must require a very great addition to the usual quantity of manure, to yield any- thing like a tolerable crop, the following year. In some places, the infield has been sown with bear, year after year, and has never been known to produce any other crop, or once permitted to lie ley. The outfield is uniformly laboured to oats, with the exception of as much of it as will grow the remaining quantity of potatoes required for the family. Sometimes, though rarely, a little out- field bear is tried on the land that was laboured to potatoes, the previous year. All the outfield is manured, whether intended for a crop of oats or potatoes ; but with this difference, the oats are sowed first, and then the manure is carried and spread, and both are harrowed in together ; whereas the manure for the potatoes is spread on the stubble, and delved under. Sometimes, the pota- toes are planted in the furrow, and covered with the next feal ; and sometimes, the ground is delved first, and the potatoes dibbled in afterwards. The manure for the outfield is composed of cow's dung, earth carried from the hill during the summer or latter part of harvest, and sea-weed, when it can be got These are laid, in alternate layers, in small heaps over the lands intended to be brought under crop in the spring. When the voar or seed-time arrives, these are delved down and well mixed, as required ; and when a piece of ground is delved and sowed, some carry this ma- nure in straw baskets, called *^ cashies ;" others spread it with their hands, and one yokes himself or herself into the harrow. The ground delved in the course of the day is generally sowed, manur- ed, and harrowed in the evening. Potatoes. — In some places, especially in those situated near fresh-water lochs, the potatoes are liable to be injured, and some- times destroyed, by mildew ; but in general, they are a good crop, and much dependence is placed upon them. About a fourth part of the arable lands is cropped with potatoes. There is a great variety of potatoes in the parish ; but the best, both as regards, quality and quantity, is of a light red colour, streaked with white SANDSTING AND AITHSTING. 119 The method of cleaning the potato crop is rather imperfect. A little before or about the time the shoots begin to break the clod, the top weeds are turned up with the hand-hoe or spade, which is called ^^ shovelling the potatoes ;" and having lain for a few days to allow the weeds to wither, a double draught of the wooden har- row is given to tuni up such weeds as may not have been su£fi- ciently exposed. When the stems are advanced about six inches above ground, the hand-hoe is again employed, for choking or laying the earth to in drills. This is the last operation till they are taken up. The return, in ordinary seasons, of the potato crop may be stated at from ten to fifteen, and their price at Is. 6d. per barrel. Oats. — The oats in general use are the grey-bearded or old Scotch flavor. The grain itself is sweet, but, from the very im- perfect way of manufacturing it, the meal is never entirely freed from the black beard and dust. Within these few years, a num- ber of families in the parish have made trial of small quantities of Angus-shire early oats, obtained from the glebe, and they ac- knowledge that this is superior to the other, both in grain and straw. Notwithstanding these advantages, they refuse to use it as their general crop, from the idea that it is more liable to be shaken by the wind. This I have not found to be the case, though no other kind of oats have been sown on the glebe for many years. The way in which corn is prepared for meal is this : — every fa- mily has a small oblong kiln built in their barn, called a *^ cinny," which will dry about an half barrel of oats at one time. This kiln is furnished with ribs of wood. These are covered with oat- straw, called *^ gloy," and the grain laid on the top. In an open- ing about one foot square, in the end of the kiln, a gentle fire is kept up, till the grain is sufficiently dried. It is then taken off the kiln, put into a straw basket, made for the purpose, called a " skeb," and, while it is warm, well rubbed under the feet This operation is intended to separate the beard and dust from the grain. It is next winnowed between two doors, or in the open air ; put into another straw basket called a " budy," and carried to the mill and ground. When brought home from the mill, two sieves, a coarse and a finer, are made use of, to separate the seeds from the meal ; and it is twice sifted over, before it is fit for use. The coarse seeds taken out with the coarse sieve, the first time the meal is sifted, are given to the cows; and the finer seeds taken out with the finer sieve, the second time it is sifted, are reserved 120 SHETLAND. for sowens. There is another kind of meal, called << burstane," prepared by drying the grain very hard in a pot This is usually ground on the quern or hand-mill. The price of seed-oats is from 9d. to Is. per stone of 17 pounds ; and the price of meal is generally from Is. 6d. to 2s. for the same weight. The merchants, when taking meal in barter for their articles, usually allow Id. per pound. Bear or Big* — Bear or big is generally cultivated in preference to barley, being esteemed more hardy, and less liable to be shaken. There are two kinds of bear, one having four rows of grain on the stalk, and the other having six. This latter kind is much shorter in the head than the former. Bear is prepared for meal in the same way as oats ; but it is allowed to cool, after being taken off the kiln, before it is rubbed. Seed- bear is sold from lOd. to Is. dd. per stone of 17 pounds; and bear-meal from Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per stone. The manure of the bear-land is always prepared dur- ing the previous summer, so that it is allowed to rot for eight or ten months, before it is used ; and, instead of being laid on the top of the delved ground, it is delved under. Wheat — Wheat is a grain which has very seldom been attempt- ed to be raised in the parish. In 1821, a small quantity of spring wheat was sowed on the glebe, which strawed most abundantly, but was light in the grain. The following spring, another trial was made, with seed from the former year's produce ; but still a light crop as to grain, though the straw was abundant More sun, less fog, and a longer summer are required, before wheat crops can be cultivated with any prospect of success. Cabbage^ 4'c, — Cabbage, turnips, carrots, &c. thrive well in the gardens, but have never been cultivated to any extent in the fields. Cabbage are used as food for both man and beast, and considerable quantities of them are raised. Some families plant upwards of 3000. * They are all of the late or winter cab- bage, and their cultivation is confined entirely to the yards or gardens. Turnips of every description seem to agree well with the soil and climate ; but when a few of them are sowed in the fields, they must be taken up when the other crops are taken into the barn-yard. Carrots, &c. come to great perfection, and are particularly well flavoured. The want of enclosures, however, prevents the cultivation of these and other crops, which might be raised with advantage. Rotation of Crops. — Such a thing as a rotation of crops has SANDSTING AND AITHSTING. 121 never once been thought of, either by landlord or tenant. The want of enclosures, and the small size of farms, are adverse 16 such a practice. Obstacles to Improvement. — It must appear, from what has al- ready been advanced, that this parish, and the islands in general, are very far behind in agriculture. Both soH and climate present great obstacles to improvement. None of the lands of the parish lie upon limestone, and no Ume is used as a manure, either simply or united with other substances. The lands are all laid in run- rig, whether they are the property of one or more proprietors, and this is the cause of much private, as well as open strife among the different possessors. While this system is continued, an insur- mountable obstacle is raised against every attempt at improvement. To obviate this, I have suggested to several of the landlords to lay off a certain portion of land to each tenant, in one spot, and to build his house on his own ground, and in a situation the most convenient. If this system was to be adopted, the tenants would soon see the necessity of division dikes between their little farms, and, I am convinced, would soon raise them. The lands also would be better drained, and rendered capable of a more improved system of husbandry. While a spirit of emulation would then be excited, small enclosures would spring up, enriched with a regular succes- sion of healthy and luxuriant crops. If the laird could be prevailed upon to adopt this course, his astonishment at the change that would soon be perceptible would be great Among the obstacles to improvement, must not be omitted the present ring-fences. These are, nowhere, efficient ; and it is only during the summer and harvest months that they are kept in to- lerable repair. As soon as the corns are put into the yard, every ^^ grind" or gate is set open ; the dikes, in many cases, pulled down and suffered to continue in that state, till the young corn appears several inches above the ground. In the meantime, cows, horses, and sheep, are allowed to pasture at freedom, and swine root up 'and destroy what years of the best husbandry could hardly re- pair. There is little labour spent in draining ; and the few drains that are, being only surface drains, are filled up in winter, and the lands, of course, become a complete mire; so that, were it not the great quantity of new earth yearly carried from the hill or common, and formed into a compost with cow's dung and sea-weed, and laid plentifully on the land, no crops could be expected. The farms, in most cases, are very small, not exceeding three 122 SHETLAND. or four acres, and therefore the tenant cannot be supposed to leave much unlaboured to acquire ley strength. The tenant also holds his small farm by such a precarious tenure, (from one year U> an- other), that little, if any improvement, can be expected from hiofi. And it is no uncommon thing, when a tenant has made all the improvement that could be expected from his slender means, that an offer of additional rent is made to the landlord, and he (the tenant) must either agree to pay the additional rent or remove, without any compensation. Under such a policy on the part of the landlord, spirited exertions in improving the lands can never be expected from the tenant. It may be observed, that the want of leases tends to keep the tenants in a very servile state. The landlord's will becomes the tenant's law, and if a disposition to resist should manifest itself, it is immediately subdued by a threatened warning of removal. Even in the few cases where there are missive tacks, the tenant can hardly be said to sit securely. There are so many ways by which the strong can get the better of the weak, that the saying, ^* the weakest are always driven to the wall," is verified to a considerable extent here. But perhaps the occupiers of small farms are not arrived at that stage of civilization, when it might be considered proper, or even safe, to trust them with all the immunities a tack would confer. In some cases ** grassums*' are taken, the injurious tendency of which has been felt, wherever they are known. They deprive the tenant of the earnings of his toil, — they damp his ardour in im- provement, and afford him no additional security ; while all that can be acquired in this small way, will '^ bulk little in a holed pocket !" The houses, in general, are mere huts; and if the landlord puts up a dwelling-house once, — tenant after tenant must be content to occupy it as he finds it, or to repair or build anew to himself. Few, if any of the landlords, build any of the office-houses; and the tenant always builds and keeps in repair, such as that repair is, the dikes around his farm. The great object of the landlord is to get his rent for his land, which, in many cases, it must be confessed, he has con- siderable difiiculty in obtaining ; but, at the same time, he cramps not the labour of the tenant with any restrictions, as to management, and leaves him at full liberty to employ, as the implements of his husbandry, the plough, the spade, or the snout of the swine. The climate and situation present formidable barriers to any thing like extensive improvement. The former can never be de- SANDSTING AND AITHSTINO* 123 pended od for twenty-four hours together, and the latter is very damp, unsheltered, and, in many places, liable to be blasted both by mildew and sea-spray ; so that the most promising crops, in one hour, may be destroyed for both man and beast Woods. — There is a tradition that this country was, at one time, covered with wood; and this tradition is supported by the cir- cumstance, that pieces of wood are found imbedded very deep in the moss. I have found some branches of the birch, from six to eight feet long, about ten feet under the surface to the northward of the glebe. In different parts of the parish, there are to be found the creeping willow, the honeysuckle, the mountain- ash or rowan-tree, and the hip brier. The crawberry on the hills is very common, and in ordinary seasons comes to perfection. There are a few plants of the blaeberry which, in some seasons, blossom, but seldom carry fruit Gooseberries and currants (red, white, and black,) in favourable seasons, ripen vvell in the gardens* Cows. — An occupier of three merks of land will keep four milk cows, and in some cases six ; and in some very favourable situa- tions, from twelve to sixteen. The young cattle pasture on the hills or common scathold from the end of May till the beginning of November. On the hills or common scathold, an unlimited privilege of pasture is allowed ; and a tenant who, during the sum- mer months, can keep from four to six milk cows, will, during the winter, fodder from twelve to fifteen head of cattle, young and old. The milk cows pasture on the grass inside of the town in summer till twelve o'clock, when they are milked and driven to the hill ; and in the evening, are again taken inside of the town, where they feed a few hours, are milked, and put into the byre during the night The young cattle, when they are driven to the hill in the end of May, are never allowed to enter within the town dikes till about the month of November, when they are taken in and set to the band for the winter. It is a practice too prevalent, indeed I may say, general, to lay on more cattle than can be well supported ; and the consequence is, that part of the stock is frequently lost for want of food, and part of it is barely able to walk. It is evident that, by laying on too much stock, the people are great losers, as they can neither bring an adequate price for their cattle, if sold at Whitsun*- day, owing to the miserable condition in which they are, nor does the milk yielded repay even the expense of their half-starved keep- ing; the summer being well spent before the cattle have thrown off their winter coat, and assumed any thing like a decent appearance. 124 SHETLAND. The cows, when compared with those of a more southern latr- tude, are small ; but, when on good keeping, give much more milk than could be expected from their size. Some of those on the glebe give about five quarts in the morning, three at mid- day, and five in the evening. The general food of the cows Id winter consists of a small ^^ hallow" or ^* wap" of straw between two, night and morning ; and if they are confined to the house by bad weather, they get as much at noon. The cows in calf, in addition to their stated diet, as above, get a few cabbage or potatoes cut down and mixed with a little bear-chaff or coarse seeds ; and frequently, in room of these^ a little meadow hay. All the cows are horned, and of every colour; but no at- tention whatever is paid to the rearing of a proper breed. Though the cold, bleak, and unsheltered pastures, and the want of a suffi- ciency of food, stint the animal in its growth and alter its form ; yet much good would result from the lairds taking an active in- terest in the concerns of their tenants, by offering small premiums for the best stock in general, or the best bull ; or by not allowing any animal to be kept as a breeder, which had not previously been approved of. The weight of a cow, when fed for slaughter, may be from 1 ^ to 2^ cwts. Cattle bought for slaughter are not considered a good bargain, if the beef exceeds ^d. or 2d. per lb. A cow in calf, at Whitsunday, if she can be recommended as a good one, will sell for L.d Sterling, and sometimes a little more. A farrow cow at the same season, Whitsunday, will sell from L.l, 10s. to L.2. 5s. Sterling ; but at Martinmas they may be purchased cheaper. Al- lowing on an average only three milk cows to each family, there will be in the parish not fewer than 1122. Those who keep four or more cows on their farms, chum once every day during summer; but the quantity of butter obtain- ed is not in proportion to the frequent churning. The cream is never gathered and churned. When the operation of churning is advanced to a certain stage, an heated stone is dropped into the churn, by which means the labour is shortened, and an addition made to the quantity, though not to the quality, of the butter. Part of the curd thus becomes incorporated with the butter, and presents a spotted (white and yellow) appearance. By very few, indeed, it must be acknowledged, is any attention paid to the dairy. This may arise partly from a portion of the rents being made pay- able in butter, and partly from want of proper milk-houses, and 8AND8TINO AND AITHSTINO. 125 due attention to the milk-vessels. So that one of the old country acts would require sometimes still to be enforced, which ordains, ^* That no butter be rendered for payment of land rent, or for sale, but such as is clean from hairs and claud, and other dirt" The lairds, as part of their land rent, and the tenants, for their own use, consume the greater part of the butter that is made in the parish ; and the little that is sold will bring from 5d. to 6d. per pound of sixteen ounces. Into the butter-milk, or ^^ bleddick," is poured a quantity of boil- ing water, by which means the curd is separated from the serum. The former, called *^ kirn," is supped with sweet milk ; the latter, called ^^ bland," is used as drink, and is sometimes kept for several months, when it acquires a strong acidity. Ponies, — The Shetland poney is now so generally known as to require no particular description. It is of every colour, white, black, brown, grey, dun, cream, chesnut, and piebald, and of every size, from 28 to 44 inches. There are a great many of them kept in the parish, but very little work is performed with them. Few bring home even their peats with them, preferring the old prac- tice of bearing them home on their own backs in a ^^ casie.^ * Ponies are sometimes employed in carrying feals from the hill, to mix with cow's dung for composts; but are kept principally for storing. It is a rare occurrence to see an individual riding to church. In good keeping, it is well known that many of the Shetland ponies are of high mettle. " When the shelty is in his winter or spring garb, it is diiBcult to suppose that his progenitors were the same animals which travellers have described as prancing over the arid tracks of Arabia ; — the long shaggy hair with which he is clothed has more the appearance of a polar dress, or of some arctic livery, specially dispensed to the quadruped retainers of the genius of Hialtland."+ Instead of the sleek skin and handsome appearance which he displays with so much spirit in the summer months, in winter he is covered with a shagfiry coat, — his symmetry disappears, and all his motions are dull and languid. Notwithstanding all the privations he undergoes, he frequently lives to a great age. I have seen some upwards of thirty years old, and even at that age capable of performing a pretty long journey. No attention is paid to the breed. On the contrary, if one is remarkable for pro- portion or size, as it will fetch the best price, it is the one which * Caaie^ a stra^ basket used for carrying peats, manure, &c. t Uibbert*s Zetland. 126 SHETLAND. is first sold. The poney is subject to few diseases. The most common are gravel and spavin. They vary in price from L. I, 10s. to L. 6 Sterling. If pro|)er attention was paid to the breed, I am convinced there would be found nowhere a finer race of animals. A considerable nuniber of them are yearly exported to Scotland and England. Former- ly, Orkney men were wont to come over and barter linen for po- nies ; but none of them have been in the practice of doing so for many years. Between Orkney and Shetland there is less commu- nication now, than there is between Shetland and any other part of Great Britain. Sheep. — The number of sheep kept in the parish is very great'; but what that number is, it is impossible to say. As every te- nant exercises an unlimited privilege of pasturage on the hills or scathold, unless the few who drive their sheep into the same ** cruive" or " pund," no other person can possibly know the num- ber of sheep belonging to each individual. The native breed of sheep is very small, being in weight about 20 or 24 lbs. of mutton, and carrying a fleece of from 1 to 1^ lbs. of wool. They are of the small-tailed race, and it is very rare to see a ewe with horns. They are of various colours, viz. white, black, grey, " catmogged," brown or " moorit," black and white, in equal proportions, or " Shilah," and piebald. Every neighbourhood has a particular pasture or scathold, on which their sheep feed, and each person knows his own sheep by their " lug-mark." That is, • one has a hole in the ear, another a ^' rift" or slit, another a ** crook" or piece taken out of the ear, behind or before, &c. The same is the case throughout the parish, and no two persons in the parish are allowed to " lug-mark" their sheep in one way. Every neighbourhood has also a ** cruive" or pund, into which they drive their sheep, for the purpose of smearing them, taking of the wool, marking the lambs, and keeping them tame. When a stray sheep is found, the person who finds it takes care of it for a year and a- day, and if, after due proclamation at different churches, the owner is not discovered, it is sold, one-half of the price goinor to the persons who found it, and the other half to the poor .of the parish in which it was found. Those whose sheep pas- ture promiscuously are called " Scat-brither ;" and those who have a few sheep pasturing in any place when they reside at a distance from it, or perhaps not in this parish, are called " out- scat holders." SANDSTING AND AITHSTING. 127 The native breed of sheep in several places are beginning to be crossed with black and white-faced rams. Where the pasture is sound, either of the crosses answers very well, as both mutton and wool are improved in quantity ; but, wherever the pasture is deep and wet, they are invariably found not to be so hardy, or to thrive so well as the original breed. Such o£ the lambs as are strong, whether of the native or crossed breed, are allowed to fol- low the ewes during the winter ; but those that are not considered strong enough to stand the winter out, are taken into the house and fed till aboQt Whitsunday, when they are again driven to the hill. Some build small houses for the purpose of keeping their lambs in during the night, and in which they feed them, night and morning, with hay or cabbage, and occasionally with a few coarse seeds and cut potatoes ; but the more general practice is to keep them around the fire in the dwelling-hous6. No shelter is pro- vided for the sheep to which they might resort when inclement weather sets in ; and no provision is made for their support, when snow and frost prevent them from obtaining their ordinary scanty fare. When food is not to be obtained on the hills, instinct seems to direct them to another quarter. I have seen them when the tide began to ebb, hastening to the 9ea-shore, feeding upon the sea- weed growing on the rock or cast upon the beach, and when it be- gan to flow, returning to the hills again. An ewe for slaughter will sell for 4s. or 5s. ; a wedder from 6s. to 8s. ; a ram lamb foi: Is. 6d. to 2s. ; and a ewe lamb, of the mid- dling size, from 2s. to 2s. 6d. The cross-breed sell considerably higher, but their mutton is neither so delicate nor their wool so soft. The wool is of various prices, from 6d. to Is. 3d. per lb. of ^ sixteen ounces. It is not shorn, as in other places, but torn from the sheep's back by an operation called *' rooing." For the most part, two, and sometimes more persons pull the wool from the poor animal at one time. Sometimes, this is done with little trouble and as little pain ; but at other times, it may be said to be indeed a painful operation.* * It would appear, as Dr Edmonston, in his History of Zetland, remarks, that the sheep-flocks must have been much greater, at an early period than they are now. In a translation from the original Oanishy in the Bibliotheca Topographica Britannica* Antiquarian Society, are these woiids, ** Observe, that in the year of our Lord 1928, the 25th day of July, did Giafiddr Ivarson of Hialtland, pay to the Reverend Lord Audfin, the Lord Bishop of Bergen, andSwein Sigurdson, Comptroller of the King*t household, the tenths due to the Pope, vis. 22 cwt. of wool, less than 16 pounds, ac- cording to the standard of Hialtland, being 36 span Hialtland weight of wool.*' 128 SHETLAND. The rams are generally let to the ewes about the beginning of December. The principal diseases to which the sheep are liable, are the Vinster, the Rot or green-sickness, the Sturdy, the Liver com- plaint, the Water or Quarquabus, the Blindness, and the Scab.* Swine. — Every fieunily keeps one, and many families keep two swine, which they feed and kill about Candlemas, for their own use. Several also keep herds of swine, which are sent to" the hill or common pasture during the summer, and are again admitted into the farms, as soon as the potatoes are reaped, to dig up and to turn down, in short, to commit every species of destruction at pleasure. When driven to the hill for the summer, they have no other food than such as they can procure for themselves, and con- aequently the best parts of the pasture are rooted up and destroy- ed. Roots of plants and earth-worms constitute the principal food : but occasionally birds' nests afford a savoury morsel ; but still more, a young lamb or a weak sheep. The native breed of swine is very small, vnth a long nose very cartilaginous, and small ears standing upright; and when he puts on his winter covering, a more ugly animal can hardly be conceived to exist. He has a profusion of long stiff bristles, and underneath a close coat of coarse wool. Of his bristles and wool a very strong and elastic rope is made, which is used for tethering horses and cows. Notwithstanding his revolting appearance, when well fed, be would disgrace no board. He is very delicate pork. A great improvement in the breed, both in appearance and size, has lately been introduced by means of swine brought to the islands by some of the Greenland ships. A young swine, fifteen days old, and of the native breed, costs from Is. to Is. 3d. ; and one of the same age, but of the improved breed, from Is. 3d. to Is. 8d. A fiill grown swine, that is, one of from one to two years old, and of the native breed, when fed, costs 8s. or 1 Os. ; but some of the improved breed have sold as high as from L. 1 to L. 1, 1 0s. The usual selling price of pork, when fresh, is 2d. per pound. A young swine is here known by the name of a runny or grice ; one fed about the fireside, a patty ; one with young, a silik ; and a boar is called a gaat. They are liable to a complaint called the gricifer, which de- prives them of the use of their hinder legs. They very seldom if ever recover of it. • A particular description of these diseases will be found in the manuscript. SANDSTINO AND AITHSTING. 129 Rent of Lands, — The rents of the lands in the parish are made up of so many different items, that it is almost impossible to ascer- tain their exact amount. These consist of cashies, fowls, days- works, butter, bear, schoolmaster's salary, teinds, seat-rent in church, scatt, land-rent, and, in some cases, fishing profits. But^ including outsets, they may be fairly stated at L. 1, 10s. Sterling per merk, which will make a total rental of the parish of 1^.1165, 10s. Sterling. Bate of Wages, — The Rev. Patrick Barclay, in his Statistical Account, has stated, that ^< men servants get from L.15 to L.18 Scotch,'' that is, from L.1, 5s. to L.!, 10s. Sterling, ** for three- fourths of the year." In summer they are employed in the ling- fishiog, and the boys on beaches. The men get from L.12 to L.24 Scotch ; boys from L.6 to L.10. Women servants get from L. 12 to L. 8, sometimes less, when they get liberty to spin and knit stockings, for their own behoof and emolument, at leisure hours. The yarn is generally spun at night, when they would be otherwise idle; and, when carrying dung, or travelling on the road, they are always knitting. Their service to the master is often very inconsiderable. Artificers are seldom paid by the day, and are always maintained by the employer. A mason has from lOd. to Is. 2d. a-day; his servants, 6d.; wright, lOd.; tailor, shoemaker, and boat'builder, are paid by the piece, and generally earn 8d. or lOd." The wages usually given to a man for about ten weeks on the ling- fishing is from L.2 to L.2, 10s. with victuals; and for a boy to assist in curing fish on a beach, with his victuals, 10s. or 12s. Sterling; and without victuals, about L.I. When he gets his food, he is bound to do any kind of work required, when not employed with the fish/ The wages of a man-servant, for farm-work, is from 12s. to L.1 Sterling for three months ; wo- men servants generally get Ss. for three months. The usual term of service is three months. The servants are in no respect im- proved, since my predecessor wrote ; neither will there ever be good servants, while the present system is pursued. They do not consider the obligation as mutual, but regard it as lying altogether on the side of the person who employs them. And when there is occasion to reprove them for having done wrong, the frequent answer is, ^^ I have no occasion to serve ; I can go home." The wages of a mason, with his victuals. Is. ; and without victuals, Is. 6d ; a wright with his victuals, Is. ; and without victuals, Is. 6d ; S UETLAND. I 130 SHETLAND. a tailor with bis victuals, Is. per day. Making a pair of shoes for a woman, lOd. ; for a man. Is. and Is. 2d. Boat-builder, Is. for every foot of keel in small boats ; but when larger, the price ad- vances. A slater charges about L.1, 5s. per rood, or 2s. per day, without food. The wages of a man for farm* work, in spring or harrest, b 6d. a-day with victuals ; and a woman's wages 4d. Very few of the servants take any interest in their masters' ser- vice. With the greater part of them, the principal concern seems to be, to work as little as possible, and that not always in the best manner ; while meal-time and pay-day are well attended to. The usual charge for grazing an ox or cow, for about six months in summer, is from 6s. to 8s. ; the owner of the animal providing a tether. A young cow or ox foddered during the six winter months, costs about 5s. ; and a cow in calf, for the same time, from 8s. to iOs. Nothing is paid for foddering a farrow cow, her milk being considered to pay daily for the fodder she eats. When a cow in calf is given out, on the condition that the calf is to be reared, the person who receives her keeps her till Michaelmas, and then returns her, the calf remaining, which is afterwards con- sidered *^ havers'* property ; that is, the calf itself and its store to belong in equal portions to the owner of the cow and the person who reared the calf; and when sold, the price to be equally di- vided. Fisheries^ — The fisheries consist of ling, cod, and herring. The ling-fisbing is carried on in boats of about 18 feet of keel, and manned with six men. This fishing, twenty-five years ago, was much more extensive than it is now. At that time, thirty six boats of the above description were engaged in it ; now, there are only eight. The boats fish from the island of Papa Stour, as being much nearer the " haaf," or fishing ground. And before they commence fishing, perhaps eight or ten days, they repair to the island, and put in order the huts ^hich are to shelter them, when on shore, during the fishing season. Fishermen are allowed by law to build huts for their accommodation, while prosecuting the fishing, on any unenclosed or uncultivated land, at a distance of not more than 100 yards above high water-mark. These huts are very rudely built ; and the wood, pones, or divots, which form their roof, must be transported to the island. The usual practice is to carry home the roofs of the huts, when the fishing-season is over. SANDSTING AND AITHSTING. 131 The usual time for commencing the ling-Gshing is from the mid- dle of May to the beginning of June, and it continues till Lammas. When the men leave their homes on Monday morning, they carry with them a haddock-line, about 900 fathoms long, baited with mussels, which they set on their way to the fishing station, that they may procure bait for their long lines. Haddocks are always preferred as bait for the ling, when they can be procured. But when these are not to be got, they take the young seath, called piltocks, which generally abound about the shores in sum- mer ; and if these should fail, they bait their hooks with a piece of cod, task, or ling. The boats leave their stations for the haaf about ten o'clock a. m., and reach the fishing-ground about six o'clock p. M., during which time they will have run from forty- five to fifty miles, so that the highest land is only as a speck in the horizon, or as the fishermen express it, like a whilly* on the water. Every boat is furnished with a fleet of tows or lines, which may be thus described, one tow,bught, orline, fifty fathoms; sixteen tows, bughts, or line, one packie ; six packies one fleet. A fleet of tows, then,' is the number of lines which a boat carries. Every fleet of tows has four buoy ropes, of from 90 to 100 fathoms each, to which are attached stones of about 16 lbs. weight, called kap- pie or bolta stanes, to sink the lines, and keep them steady at the bottom. But besides these, every line has a sinking stone to it- self, about 2 lbs. weight, called a bighter. The four buoy-ropes are provided with sheep skin buoys. The hooks are made fast to a piece of line about four feet long, called a toum, and these are made fast to the tows, at a distance from each other of five fa- thoms ; so that on a fleet of tows, there are 960 hooks. The fishermen having arrived at the spot where they intend to set their lines, one man cuts the bait to the proper size, which is called sneezing the bait ; and two men bait alternate hooks, while the others row the boat in the direction the lines are intended to be laid. When the last buoy is put over the side of the boat, the men remain by it about three or four hours, if the weather be fa- vourable, before they begin to haul in their lines. If the weather threatens, they commence immediately to haul in, and always do so by beginning at the last buoy. One man hauls the lines, another strikes the fish as they come to the surface, with a clip f or huggie staflF, and takes into the boat, cavilsj the fish, and * '' Whilly/' the smallest size of boat. f '* Clip or huggie staff," a large iron hook fixed on a short wooden handle. ^ *< Ca?il,'* to take the fish off the hook. 132 SHETLAND. unoods* the hooks, and a third man guts and takes off the heids. The other three andow or shoughf the boat. When the men come ashore in the afternoon of the foltowingdaj, with eight score of ling, they consider they have made a good hauL This would average 16 cwt., for which they are allowed 5s. per cwt. They seldom make more than two trips to the haaf in the week; but when there is an appearance of fine weather, after hauling their lines, they bait their hooks, and set a seoood time. When the fish are landed, the fishermen have no more concern with them. They are split, salted, and dried at their landlord's expense. As soon as the boat arrives at the beach, one man goes to the lodge or hut, kindles a fire, and acts as cook ; while the others land the fish, and see them weighed. There is only one proprietor in the parish, whose lands are let on a fishing tenure. His tenants man seven boats, and caught, last year, about eight tons of dried ling, which sold for L.18 Ster- ling per ton. The boat and materials are divided into six shares, one of which the landlord, for the most part, holds, putting in a feed man, to whom he gives two lispunds of meal, and L.2 Ster- ling. The provisions which each fisherman takes with him for the season, are two lispunds of meal, two ankers of potatoes, a pork-ham, or a smoke-dried sheep, and an half lispund of dri^d boar. Of this, when knocked in a stone trough, which is carried to the fishing station with their other necessaries, they make broth. Tlioy have very little spirits either at sea or ashore, being preclud- ed from the use of that article by the high duty to which it is liable. Their usual drink is water, unless when they carry with thein from their houses on Monday morning, a small cask or jar with J)land. Johnsnias (!24th June, O. S.) is regarded by the fishermen as an holiday. Again, before striking their tents at Lammas, and bidding adieu to (he busy, bustling, perilous occupations of the summer, the fishermen who have been accustomed to associate together during the season, meet and take a parting cup, when the usual toast on the occasion is, ** Lord ! open the mouth of the grey fish, and hand thy hand about the corn." This meeting is known by the name of the fishermen's foy. Afler this, having nothing more to detain them, their huts are unroofed, bag and baggage are bundled into the boat, and wafted on the wings of a favourable breeze, they hasten to enjoy the smiles of their wives, and the innocent * ^* SiuhhU** to wrap the toum round Uichook. so tbat the line maj not be ruTcied. t *^ Andov or shough,'* to row the boMt stern fbreniost. SANDSTING AND AITH8TING. 133 prattle of their bairns, and in them forget for a time the toils and privations of a fisherman's calling. Cod fishing. — The cod-fishing is prosecuted in sloops of from 1 8 to 40 tons burden, of which there are eight in the parish, mak« ing a tonnage of 224 tons. They carry from nine to twelve men each, who hire the sloop for the fishing season, which begins at Whitsunday and ends at Lammas. The owner of the sloop re- ceives as hire, the half of all the fish caught, and oil made from their livers, and is bound to put and keep the sloop in a sea-wor- thy state. He also cures the fish, and the men pay for the cur- ing of their half, at the rate of 2s. Sterling per cwt, which is do* ducted when accounts are settled at the end of the season. It is always understood that the owner of the sloop is to have the pre- ference, on equal terms, to the purchase of the men's share offish and oil. Sometimes, a few men purchase a small sloop in partner- ship, and fish with her, taking in the additional men required, either as sharesmen, or giving them a fee, and sometimes giving them half share and half fee. All that is required to the prose- cution of the cod-fishing in a sloop, are two lines, about 100 fa- thoms, a lead of 3 or 4 lbs., with a scob, that is, an iron rod bent, two feet and a half long, passing through the upper end of the lead, to each end of which rod is affixed a short team and hook, baited with the large muscle or yoag. The weekly supply of bait is from 1600 to 2200. The usual price paid to the per- sons who dredge the bait is from 4d. to 6d. per 100, the expense of which is divided between the owner and men. The quantity of cod caught in a season varies from 5 to 18 tons, and the price paid in the country, for sometime, Vnay be said to have been sta- tionary at L.IO per ton. The men, for provisions, have 8 lbs. of oatmeal baked into cakes weekly, and two-thirds of a barrel of potatoes, and a supply of smoked pork or mutton for the season, and as much fresh fish as they choose to make ready. The fish heads and small fish are carried home for the weekly supply of their families. The men are bound to bend the rigging and sails, and ballast the sloop before going to sea; and when the fishing is over, unrig and dry ropes and sails, heave the ballast, clean the vessel, and draw up and secure her for the winter. The fish livers are now melted into oil, and divided between owner and men. Iterringfishing, — The attention of the British Government seems to have been directed, at an early period, to the fishing 134 SHETLAND. and curing of herrings. Bounties were held out as a stimulus to engage in this trade ; but while, on the one hand, it was patroniz- ed and apparently encouraged, the restrictions laid on the out6t of the vessels to be employed in it, not only cramped the energies of the fisherman, but even deterred him from prosecuting a fish- ing which, he plainly foresaw, would involve him in difficulty and debt. The consequence has been, that never, till very lately, has any attempt been made unless in the dead water in the Yoes, to set an herring net. Mr James Garrick in Reawick, was the first in this parish who set a spirited example in the herring-fishing. He purchased a few second-hand boats from Wick, each of which carried about twenty nets, and with these was ve^ successfuL The herrings caught are of an inferior quality, being mostly spent, and the season being too far advanced before the fishing commences. The cod-fishing is carried on till Lammas, and the herring-fish« ing does not begin till after the middle of August Liast year, upwards of 700 barrels of herrings were caught The general price given for herrings when boat and nets belong to the fishermen is 6s. fid. per cran. But when boat and nets are provided and kept in repair, for these the owner retains the half, and pays the fishennen 2s. 6d. per cran for their half. In this case, the fishermen incur no expense and no risk. This fishing continues about six weeks, and during that time, some of the boats have caught 180 crans. Manufactures, — Formerly, a great quantity of kelp was manu- factured in the parish, perhaps not less than 130 tons. But since barilla was introduced, kelp has declined so much in value, that the price obtained cannot now pay for the making of it V. — Parochial Economy. There is no market-town nearer than Lerwick, which is distant about sixteen miles, with two arms of the sea intervening. No post-office ; and when a letter is to be sent or received, a person must be sent expressly for the purpose to Lerwick, the post-town, to whom is paid from Is. fid. to 2s. Sterling, according to the state of the weather. There is nothing resembling a road in the parish, unless a piece which I made some years ago, through the glebe, and carried on about half a mile towards the kirk. But there is a de- cided disinclination to walk on the road, because it wears the rive- lins too fast, and because a road would imply a restriction to a particular path ; whereas the Shetlander's delight is to range un- controlled, and " to wander as free as the wind on his mountains.'* The fences are very inefficient, and being built, for the most part. SANDSTING AND AITHSTINO. 135 of feals, and intended to last for a part of the year only, they may be mentioned as one of the obstacles to improvement Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is very inconveniently situated, as before observed ; and a considerable proportion of the population is distant from it about seven miles of marshy road, and many of them impeded by arms of the sea. The kirk is seat- ed for 437 persons ; and no fi«e sittings allowed. The manse was built in 1817; a very insufficient and inconve- nient house^^-so much so, that when the presbytery and heritors met to have it declared free, an heavy fail of rain having taken place during the previous night, stepping-stones were laid along the passages and lobby, that they might not wet their feet. Two years af^er, it received a new roof. The ends of the joists have twice been rotted out of the walls, and two floorings laid, since that time. The manse was finished with the very worst descrip- tion of planted fir from the north of Scotland. The office-houses have stood condemned, by the report of tradesmen, for a number of years. The glebe is nine merks, and would rent at about L. 12 Ster- ling. It is not good land; but its hill privileges are extensive and good. The stipend payable from the lands in the parish is L.1i5, 9s. 6d., and from Government L.42, 17s. 2d. Sterling, in- cluding L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. There are two Independent meeting-houses ; to one of which no preacher is appointed, and the other has not been opened for some years, — the members being so very few, they meet in the preacher's dwelling-house. This individual has the small sum of L. 5 per annum allowed him by the Congregational Union, and acts as factor to one of the principal proprietors. In the other, worship is sometimes conducted by a regular preacher; but for the most part, one or mofe of the members " divine the word,"* as they feel disposed. The numbers who are joined with the In- dependents, may be stated about 40. There is one Methodist meeting-house, in which sermon is ap- pointed to be once a month, but is not regularly given. The mem- bers in communion with the Methodists are between 50 and 60. Both Independents and Methodists have not manifested the great- est desire to promote the religious instruction of the people of Sand- sting, because, instead of building their meeting-houses in the * A favourite expression of some of their members. 1 3G SHETLAND. most destitute quarters of the parish, they have placed ibem with- in a mile from the Established kirk. Divine service at the Established kirk is generally well attend- ed ; and the average number of communicants may be stated at 500. Neither Independents nor Methodists are increaMog in numbers; they are rather declining. Their meetings are pretty well attended in the evenings, or when there happens to be no sermon at the parish kirk. Education, — There are nine schools in the parish, viz. one paro- chial, one Assembly, two from the Society in Scotland for Propagat- ing Christian Knowledge, and 6ve supported by individual sub- scription. The parochial school was built in 1808^ and cost L.105 Sterling. The accommodations provided are barely what are appointed by law, in number ; but, in quality, would not be considered by any unconcerned person to approach near to it* The school and school-house have thatched roofs, which, by some agreement entered into between the teacher and heritors, the for* mer is bound or has agreed to uphold. For this he is allowed some fractional part of a penny. About one rood of barren mossy ground was set off for a garden, which was valued to the proprie- tor from whose lands it was taken, at L.6 Sterling, including peat ground. All that it is capable of producing, are a few dwarf cab- bages, or a few sheaves of gray-bearded oats. The accommoda- tions for a number of years have been in a state of great disrepair; but the teacher is to blame, in not having applied to the Quarter Sessions to enforce such repairs as competent workmen should de- clare necessary. The schoolmaster has a salary of L.26 Sterling per annum. Branches of instruction taught are, reading, writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping. Stated fees for reading, Is.; read- ing, writing, and arithmetic, Is. 6d. ; and book-keeping, 5s. All the fees received would hardly amount to L.1, 10s. per annum. The five schools supported by individual subscription are at Sand, Aith, Clousta, Culswick, and West Burrafirth. The three former are taught by men who, besides common reading, can in- struct their scholars in writing and the first rules of arithmetic The two latter are taught by women who profess to teach reading only. At these five places schools, on a permanent footing, are much needed ; and a small salary, if certain, would secure the services of teachers at these stations, qualified for all the duties which would be required of them. At present, they are supported by the fa- milies in the respective quarters ; but as soon as the teachers can 8ANDSTIN0 AND AITHSTING. , 137 turn their labour to better account, the schools are thrown Tacant, and, before other teachers can be provided, the children have lost a great 'part of what they had learned. I may here be allowed to observe, that a school situated in any particular district in the pa- rish can benefit only that particular district in which it is placed. The parish is very extended, and the population is placed, for the most part, around the outskirts of it. For this reason it is that the benefits of a school are confined to those alone who reside in the immediate neighbourhood of it The people in general ma- nifest an anxiety to have their children educated ; and yet, when they have the means in their power, do not improve them to the extent which they might There are no children arrived at an age capable of being instructed, who cannot read. Charitable Institutions. — A fund was established in 1810, called << The Shetland Fisherman's Fund,^ which had foritsobject the re- lief of old and decayed fishermen, and the widows of fishermen. Its supporters at first were themore wealthy in the country, andan year^ ly payment of 2s., in addition to 2s. paid by every fisherman on his being enrolled a member. Aged fishermen have been receiving from 5s. to 7s., and widows 14s. yearly. It is managed by twelve general directors, one representing each parish, and by parochial committees. Poor and Parochial Fitnds. — The relief afforded to the poor arises altogether from church-dpor collections, the amount of which may be stated at L.10 Sterling. Out of this, the average number of poor persons who receive aid is about 25, and the extent of aid afforded to them varies from 36. to 12s. yearly. Housewives, who are active and industrious, receive occasionally a small sum as a reward for their activity and industry. The small sum allowed to the stated poor would be altogether inadequate for their support if the people did not, in addition to the Sabbath offerings, contri- bute cheerfully in another way. The kirk-sefiBion divides the parish into as many sections as there are poor persons. In each of these, a poor person is stationed, who generally remains in each family one day for every merk of land which they rent, and receive victuals and lodging ; while the small pittance received from the session is laid out in the purchase of clothes. There are more applications for admission to the poor's roll than can be sustained, and the receiving of parochial aid is consi- dered no degradation. Fairs. — That the people may obtain a more ready sale for their 13% SHETLAMK estn ttock of oo« and borses» I 1b>^ ^wjHiips adfertned and iuperioteiided a »le al Whitsanday and Maitinmas, which is the ofilv resemblaDee to a £ur ever held. At both these seasons, a niuuber of persons, from the pcighboaripg paiishfis attend, eqpe* ciaily from the parish of TingvalL AU-komMM. — Theie are tvo ale-houses,— one in Sandstinfc and the other in Aithsting ; but no bad eflfects are apparent from them. There is no propen^y in the people, generaUj, to indulge to ex« cess in spirituous liquors. FueL — Peats are the ool; fuel used in the parish ; and they are abundant. In digging for peats, there is abundant evidenoe that mouDtain-ash or rowan-tree, birch, hazel, and willow or saugh, hare, at one time, flourished oTer a great portion of the country. Miscellaneous Obsertations. Neither rye-grass nor clover are cultivated, nor can be raised with any degree of success, till dikes are built, capable of defending from the encroachments of man and beasL Both these plants spring up naturally in many places, — the former called acr«-a-AiaiA, and the latter »morra. There is a considerable quantity of bog-meadow ground, the grass of which is cut yearly about Lammas, and dried for hay. In general, it is much wasted before it is stacked ; from the idea, that if the juices are not, in some measure, washed out before it is put together for the winter, it will take heat and rot. The scythe in use does not exceed fifteen inches, and some are not more than twelve inches in length. It has a straight haft, with one handle, and the mower stands nearly upright. The upper part of the haft rests on the bend of the arm ; the left hand holds the handle, and the right hand grasps the haft. Some mowers wield the little instrument ver; dexterously, and cut down more grass than could be imagined, with such a diminutive tool. The sickle is of very small dimensions. I have seen the reaper make from thirty-five to forty cuts with it, before the hand was fil- led with corn. Both scythe and sickle are made in the parish. Cottages. — The cottages are of rather a rude description ; and in wet weather, somewhat diflScult of access, if there be any de- sire to keep the feet dry and clean. They are usually built of stone with dry mortar, and over the couples and rafters is laid a covering of pones or divots, and sometimes of flaws. Over these is laid a covering of straw, which is secured by ropes of the same material, or of heather, called " simmins." The dunghill occu- SANDSTING AND AITHSTING. 139 pies a place as near the door as possible, that it may be enriched with the general soiling. And frequently before the door of the dwelling-house can be reached, a passage must be made through the byre. For the most part, the furniture is so arranged as to form a but and a ben ; but chimneys are little known. Instead of these, some houses have from two to six holes in the roof to admit light and allow the escape of smoke. The better to pro- mote this latter, a piece of feal or divot, or two pieces of board joined at right angles, called a skyle, is placed on the weather side of the hole ; and instead of mounting on the roof every time the wind shifts, some have a pole reaching down inside, by which this operation is performed. The order for doing this is ^* skyle the lum." When an opening is left for a window, it is sometimes filled up with a bladder, or untanned lambskin freed from the wool, stretched on a frame. In the but or kitchen end of the house, in addition to the family, there are usually two dogs, as many cats, a patty swine, a calf, and some half dozen of caddy lambs. * Value ofLandy ^c. — The Rev. Patrick Barclay, in his account of the parish, remarks, that ^* the superiors formerly had many ways of procuring property in Shetland. Patrick, Earl of Ork- ney, in a disposition of the lands of Sand to Jerom Umphray, narrates, that he had evicted seven merks of that land from Fowl Nicholson in Cullswick for stealing a swine, and that he had evicted six merks from ■ in Cullswick for stealing bolts from his Lordship's trood, — probably some piece of wreck which had been drawn into CullswicL In that same disposition, the Earl grants receipt for the money from Jerom Umphray, at the rate of L. 17, 16s. Scotch," L. 1, 9s. 8d. Sterling, << per merk land, being full land's price at the time." The lands in Sand now rent at as much yearly per merk as the sum above specified to have been their purchase*price in 1600. About 1700, an island, with fifteen scores of sheep, was pur- chased for the sum of L. 30 Sterling, the yearly rent of which is now about L. 60 Sterling. In 1633^ an ox for slaughter cost L. 1 ; a fat sheep from 2s. to Ss. 6d. In 1738^ a lispund, or 36 lbs. of meal, cost Is. 8d. ; a cow in calf, 17s. 6d. ; fee of pre- centor and session-clerk, 10s. ; oflScer, 5s. ; presbytery-oflScer, Is. 3d. 1746, dues of proclamation, 6d. ; making a grave> * Lambs wintered and fed in the house ; a lamb which has lost its dam, and is reared on cow*8 milk, i» also called a caddj. 140 SHETLAND. 6d. 1748, a cow in calf, L. 1, ds. 4cL ; Dursiog a cKiId twelTe months, 16s. 8(L 1750, front seat in kirk capable of accom- modating six or eight persons, Is. 4d. ; beef, mutton, and pork, three- farthings per lb. ; a goose, 5d. ; and a fowl, 2d. 1758^ an ell of Shetland claith or blanketing, lOd. 1779, eggs per dotfen. Id.; and salted tusk. Id. each. 1780, bed and board in Lerwick per day, 6d. ; slater's wages. Is. ; and server, 6d. per day. 1781, woman-servant's wages for six months, 6s. 8d. 1782, a pair of shoes for a woman, 2s. 6d. ; for a man, ds. ; voar (three noonths in spring), fee for a man, 5s. 1783, 100 herrings, 6d. ; grazing a cow. Is. 6d. ; making a suit of clothes, 5s. 6d«; butter, (one lispund, or 36lbs.), 7s. ; a fat wedder, 2s. 6d. ; an ewe, Is. 6d. ; a hen, 2^d.; a cock, 1^ Most of these articles now cost double of what is stated above. Weights and Afeasures. — The instrument in general use for weighing is called a ** bysmer :" It weighs from one to twenty- four merktf. One and one-fourth or half-pound make a merk, and twenty- four merks make one lispund. The lispund weight varies in different parishes, and even in different parts of the same pa- rish, from 02 to 40 lbs. Dr Barry, in his History of Orkney, has given a particular description of the ** bysmar," which I shall here transcribe. ^' The bysmer is a lever or beam of wood, about three feet long ; and from one end to near the middle, it is a cylinder of about three inches diameter, thence it gently tapers to the other end, which is not above one inch in diameter. From the middle, all along this smallest end, it is marked with small iron pins, at un- equal distances, which serve to point out the weight, from one merk to twenty-four, or a lispund. The body to be weighed is . hung by a hook in the small end of the instrument, which is then suspended by a cord* around it, held in the hand of the weigher, who shifts it towards the one end or the other, till the article he is weighing equiponderates with the large end, which senses it as a counterpoise ; and when they are in equilibrio, the pin jiearest the cord points out in the marks the weight of the subject weighed/* Grain and meal manufactured in the parish are weighed, and bought and sold by " bysmer" weight." Measures, — These are a " can," by which oil is measured, and which contains one gallon ; the anker, or third part of a barrel, by which potatoes are measured ; and the ell, by which Shetland ♦* claith" is measured. * This cord is tied round the ends of a round piece of wood, about four inches loDgi *nd ^®^^ ^^ ^^® hand, and is called ** the snarl.** SANDSTINO AND AITHSTIKO, 141 Superstitions, — A considerable prumber of. the people believe in and practise many superstitious rites. The fishermen, when about to proceed to the fishing, think they would have bad luck, if they were to row the boat " withershins'' about They always consider it necessary to turn her with the sun. Neither do they give the same name to most of the things in the boat, and to several on shore, by which they are usually known. But supersti- tious observances are not confined to the men only, their wives also share in them, and even carry them to a greater extent. These are practised chiefly, in attempting to cure diseases in man and beast, or i« taking away the ^^ profits" of their neighbour's cows ; that is, in appropriating, by certain charms, to their own dairy, the milk and butter which should have replenished that of their neighbour. I shall subjoin a few specimens.* * WreUing T^reoJ.— When a penoD has receired a sprain, it is customary to apply to an individual practised in casting the '^ wresting thread.** This is a thread spun from black wool, on which are cast nine knots, and tied round a sprained leg' or arm. During the time the operator is putting the thread round the affected limb, he says, but in such a tone of voice as not to be heard by the bystanders, nor even by the per. son operated upon, *« The Lord radc. And the foal slade ; He lighted. And he righted. Set joint to joint. Bone to bone. And sinew to sinew. Heal in the Holy Ghost's name!** Airi^trorm.— The person afflicted with ringworm takes a little ashes between the forefinger and thumb, three successive mornings, and before having taken any food and holding the ashes to the part affected, says, ** Ringworm ! ringworm red I Never mayest thou either spread or speed ; Qut aye grow less and less. And die away among the ase,*' (ashes,) at the same time, throwing the little ashes held between the forefinger and thumb into the fire, ^urn.— To cure a burn, the following words are used :— ** Here come I to cure a burnt sore ; If the dead knew what the living endure, The burnt sore would burn no more.** The operator, after having repeated the above, blows his breath three times upon tlw burnt place. The above is recorded to have been conununicated to a daugfa^r who- had been burned by the spirit of her deceased mother. Fey Folk It is a practice with some to bum the straw on which a corpse has lain, and to examine very narrowly the ashes, from a belief that the print of the in- dividual's foot, who is next to be carried to the grave, will be discovered. The straw is set on fire, when the body is lifted and the funeral company are leaving the house. Elf-shot, — A notion is prevalent in the parish, that when a cow is suddenly takrn ill, she is elf shot ; that is, that a kind of spirits called '' trows,** different in their nature from fairies, have discharged a stone arrow at her, and wounded herewith it. Though no wound can be seen externally, there are different persons, both tioales and females, who pretend to feel it in the flesh, and to Cu^e it by repeating certain irordi over the cow. They also fold a sewing needle in a leaf taken flxnn a particular part of a psalm book, and secure it in the 1^ of the cow, which is oonsideredy not only 142 SHETLAND. at an infiillibie cure, but which alto tenret as a charm against future attacks. This is nearly allied to a practice which was at one time very prevalent, and of which aume traces may perhaps still exist, in what would be considered a more civiliaed part of the world, of wearing a small piece of the bnmch of the roan-tree, wrapped around with red thread, and sewed into some part of the garments, to guard against tbe cf- fecU of an ** evU eye,** or witchcraft, ** Roan-tree and red thread Will drive the witches a* wud.** When a cow has calved, it is the practice with some, as soon after as potsiblc* to set a cat on her neck and draw it by the tail to the hinder part of the cow ; and then to set it on the middle of the cow*s back, and draw it down the one side and pull it up the other, tail foremost, that the cow may be preserved while in a weak state, from being carried away by the " trows.*' This is enclosing the cow, as it were, in a ma- gic circle. As the trows are &aid to have a particular relish for what is good, both in meat and drink ; so when a cow or sheep happens to turn sick or die, it is firmly beHeved thai they have been shot by an elfin-arrow, and that the real animal has been taken away and something of a trowie breed substituted in its place. And tome who have been admitted into the interior of a trow*s dwelling, assert that they have beheld their own cow led in to be slaughtered, while, at the tame time, their friends on the surlhee of the earth, sow her fall by an unseen hand or tumble over a precipice. Sometimes, also, the trows require a nurse of their children, for it would appear, they too baTe a'time to be born and a time to die, and therefore females newly confined mutt needs be watched very narrowly, lest they be carried off* to perform the ofilce of wet-nurse to some trowling of gentle blood, who has either lost its mother, or whose station among her own race, exempts her from the drudgery of nursing her own ofispring. There is one place in the parish, called " Trolhouland,** a name which indicates the su- perstitious notions with which it is associated : it signifies ** the high laud of the trows.** I'he internal recesses of knolls are considered the favourite residences of the trows, and they are seldom passed without fear and dread by the inhabitants of the upper world. And when, after nightfall, there may be a necessity for passing that way, a live coal is carried to ward otT their attacks. For many centuries, the same supcrsti* tious belief has prevailed in Norway, that certain places were the favoured haunts of malcvulent jjenii. There is their ** Trolhetta ;" and in Iceland, '• Troladyngiar,** and " Trollakyrkia.'* Taking away and recovciing Milk and Butter profits, — That a person may take away and procure for herself the summer profits of her ncighbour*s cows, it is the practice to go clandestinely nnd pluck an handful of grass from the roof of the byre, and give it to her own cows, thereby supposing tliat the milk and butter which should have been her neighbour's, will by this means become hers. And, in order to regain the profits which arc supposed to have been taken away, it is usual to milk in private a cow belonging to the person who is suspected of having taken them, and thereby to get them back. AVo^/r..— There is also a *' trow** called a " Ncaglc,*' somewhat akin to the wa- ter-kelpie of other lands, who makes his appearance about mills, particularly when grinding, in the shape of u beautiful poney. That he may attract the attention of the person who acts the part of the miller, he seizes and holds fast the wheel of the mill ; and, as is natural, the miller goes out to examine into the caufcc of the stop> page; when, to his astonishment, a beautiful poney saddled and bridled, is standing, and ready to be mounted ; who but an old miller could let slip such a fair opportunity for a ride? But if he should neglect warnings, and unguardedly put his foot in the stirrup, his fate is sealed. Neither bit or bridle avail him any thing. Off goes the poney, bog or bank arrest not his course, till in the deep sea he throws his rider and himself evani&hes in a flash of flame. But some millers are proof against the temptation, having been taught caution by the fate of others; and instead of taking a ride, salute his Neogleship with a fiery brand through the lightning- tree hole, which makes him immediately scamper away. Such are some of the prevailing su))erstitious notions, which have no doubt been derived from the early Scandinavian settlers, and which, there is as little doubt, were fostered and made gain of, till the time of the Ucformation, by the lower orders of the Roman Catholic clergy. And, if they should still retain a hold, to a certain ex- tent, in the minds of son. e of the more ignorant, we need not be much surprised. But that those who have received a more liberal education, and consequently should be better able to appreciate the truths of Christianity, should lend their influence to foster such notions, would hardly be credited in the nineteenth century, if facts did SANDSTIN6 AND A1THSTINO. 143 not confirm the allegation against them. The following document, which T obtained possession of at the kirk tloor before it was made public, and which was issued and signed by four members of the Morton Lodge in Lerwick, requires no comment* Though for certain reasons 1 withhold names, the authors justly deserve to. be held up to general scorn. ** At a meeting held in Morton I^ge, at Lerwick, upon the 18th day of August 1815, it was reported and faithfully declared upon oath, by M. B. in Easting parish in Shetland, that an woollen web, the property of M. B., shirts and other things also of great value belonging to M. B. ; as also, many suits of mutches, which belonged to M. B. i all these, as above stated, has been stolen from thegre^ ofC. during the first part of this present month. Notice is hereby given, that cruelty forms no part of masonry, yet justice to the injured party must be done, and that it' these things so stolen are not returned back before next meeting of masons upon that business, or at furthest, in fifteen days from this date, a calamity of a severe nature may fall on all,that parish in which the present crop may be blasted by storm, and the person or persons guilty shall be publickly led throw the parishes in the neighbourhood on day light* and that by evil spirits not seen by others. This paper to be intimated at the kirk door, that none may plead ignorance. Given under our hands at Lerwick, by autho- rity of Morton Lodge." 1 shall I add one instance more of superstitious belief, which appears to have ta« ken a firm bold of the mind of the Shetlander, at a very early period ; and which, like the others abo\e enumerated, still retains its hold, though, perhaps, under some modifications. It is called ** casting the heart.** It has long been believed, thai when a person is emaciated with sickness, his heart is worn away, or taken away by some evil genii. A person skilled in ** casting the heart*' is sent for, who, with many mystic ceremonies, melts lead, pours it through the bowl of a key or pair of scissors, belJ over a sieve, which is also placed over a bason of cold water. The lead is melted and poured again and again, till it assumes something like stances of great longevity are rare. The women usually live to a greater age, and preserve their faculties better, than the men, it may be from having been less exposed to excessive and desultory labour. It is remarkable that no authentic instance of Asiatic cho- lera has occurred. A rigorous quarantine was maintained dur* ing the prevalence of the pestilence in Scotland ; but whether this measure contributed to save the islands from its visitation, is a question that resolves itself into the more genenil one of the con- tagious nature of the disease, — a point on which able medical au** thorities are at issue. Geology. — The rocks are mostly all of what has been called the primitive formation. — Granite, gneiss, mica-slate, clay-slate^ limestone, serpentine, and diallage rock ; and towards the south end of the country, secondary sandstone, &c« Serpentine forms considerable hills in Unst, the most northerly island of the clus- ter, and in Fetlar adjacent to it ; and in this rock are found imbed- ded masses and veins of chrome ore, some thousand tons of which have been quarried and sold. The first quarry of this valuable mineral was found by Mr Edmondston of Buness, on his private property, and he introduced it to the British market. It is ex- ported in its crude state, or partially pulverized and levigated. It is used as a pigment, dye, and alloy, and might perhaps be use- ful as a medicine. Limestone is found in difierent situations, and burnt in rude kilns with peat fuel ; it is chiefly used as mortar, lit- tie being employed in agriculture, though its general iutroductiou would be an important economical improvement. When applied* in the state of carbonate, it will act on certain conditions of soil) often to be met with here, more beneficially than when it is caus- tic, not only by neutralizing acids, but by supplying carbon. Sand- stone-slate abounds, and is extensively in demand for roofing; it is 148 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE heavy, but od the whole answers well. No coal has ever been met withy nor is it likely, from the geology of the islands, that it will be found ; but the great abundance and excellence of peat renders this deficiency the less to be regretted. In the progress of me* chanical and chemical improvements, we hope to see peat made available for most of the purposes to which coal is applied, and it has these additional advantages, that it is on the sur&ce, and re- productive.* The moors that produce it, are, however, very much neglected, to the injury of the present stock of fuel, and the pre- vention of future accumulation. Zoology. — In zoology, there is nothing very remarkable. Of the wild quadrupeds, the great and small seal, otter, weasel, rabbit, common and great Norway rat, house and field mice, exhaust the list. Difierent species of whales are occasionally seen. They are such as occur on the Scottish coast, but are not numerous, with the exception of the ka!an whale {Delphinus melas)^ hundreds of which are by boats annually driven on shore. They are to be seen in flocks of thousands every summer ; and if a little more attention were directed to their history and modes of capture, which itjmight be easy to point out, they might furnish a valuable annual addition to the regular marine resources of the country, instead of being a merely casual one. The flesh is as nutritious and wholesome as beef, and very similar to it in flavour. The oil (of which each animal, on an average, yields about a barrel) is excellent The skin can be made into good leather. The ofials are powerful manure ; and the expense and risk of hunting them are trifling. Formerly, they were used as food here, as they still are by our worthy, intelligent, and substan- tial neighbours of Faroe, from which country Shetland might receive many useful lessons. The flesh of a congenerous animal is re- gularly sold and prized in the markets of the Bermudas, and that of the porpoise (a miniature whale) was a favourite dish in English palaces in the fifteenth century; but modern fastidiousness has, it seems, found something revolting in eating whale's flesh, so that in seasons of scarcity, sea weed is resorted to, while it is allowed to rot on the beach. In the case of any of these ka'an whales • The first sketch of the Geology of the Shetland Islands was that publislicd by Professor Jameson in his Mineralogy of the Scottish Isles: his distin;;fuished pupil, Dr Hibbert, many years afterwards, gare a more ample di>scriptioT), also from actual observation, of the numerous striking and interesting relations of this remote portion of the Hriii^h empire, in his Mineralogy of the Shetland Isles. COUNTY OF SHETLAND. 149 being stranded and killed, the landlords on whose property they were driven, and the Crown or its donatory, exacted and received shares. To this claim the latter had apparently no right, ex- cept what might have been derived from ancient usages under the Norwegian rule, and if this were a valid authority in the whale question, it would be so in many others, iind confer privileges on the Shetlands, of which Scottish law is unconscious. The land* lords, on the other hand, have an obvious right to a share, both in equity and usage, just as a proprietor on the Scottish coast may demand a high rent for a barren rock, which happens to be fa- vourably situated as a site for a lighthouse, or a station for a fishery. Almost all the British sea-birds are to be met with in Shetland at one season or another ; but I am not aware that any are pecu- liar to it. They are, id some localities, very numerous, and are eagerly sought after by the natives, who are among the most dex- terous and intrepid fowlers anywhere to be found. These climbers seldom act in concert with each other, as is done in St Kilda, Faroe, and many other places, but fearlessly and singly scramble amongst precipices where a finger or a toe can hardly find a hold. This practice should be here sternly discouraged. The benefit from it is trifling. It leads to idle and irregular habits, and is of- ten fatal to life. The destruction, too, of these lovely tenants of the precipices, robs the wild grandeur of the scene of one of its most interesting attractions. In defending their nests from rapacious birds, they become also the protectors of the flocks that pasture in their vicinity ; and it is singular that proprietors are not more alive to the utility of their preservation. The land-birds are comparatively few in number and species, principally from the absence of woodlands. No attraction for sportsmen, in the shape of grouse or partridge, is to be met with on our damp and lonely moors. Most of the fishes found on the British coasts are to be met with here. Those in the small lakes and rivulets are the eel, common trout, and sea-trout. I doubt if it can be aflSrmed that salmon have been caught in Shetland ; but when eminent and experienced icththyologists find it to be a matter of such difficulty to furnish an accurate specific distinction for this fish, it would be presumptuous to assert that it does not occur here. The rivulets are short and shallow, and almost all of them tinctured deeply with moss. These circumstances may be the 150 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE cause that salmon are at least rare, or of diminished size and modified appearance. Shell-fish are abundant Oysters of good size and flavour occur in many situations. The limpet is universally used as bait for the young coal-fish. The kuUyack (Mactra sclida) is frequent, burrowing in muddy beaches^ sheltered from the sur^ and is in season early in spring. Eaten raw it resembles the oys* ter in taste, and by many is thought to be more delicate and di* gestible. In the department of marine Invertebrata, an inviting field awaits the culture of the naturalist. Botany. — Only two plants, not hitherto observed in Scotland, have been found in Shetland, — the Pimm maritimum and an are- nariOf believed to be the Norvepica. Both occurjn the island of Unstonly, and were discovered in 1887 by a young and promising native botanist He has since surveyed botanically the most of the islands, and the following is his list of phsenogamous plants found in them, which is interesting, as being, I believe, the first attempi at a regular Shetland flora. Catalogue of the Phaenogamous plants and ferns observed in the Shetland Islands, by Mr Thomas Edmondston, Junior. Mo^lANORIA. MONOOTKIA. Hippuris Tulgaria Salicornia herbacea DiGTNLA. Callitrichc aquatica DlAMDKIA. MoNOGTMIA^ Veronica officinalis beccabunga anagallis montana PinguicuTa Tulgaria DiOTNIA. Anthoxanthum odoratum Trianoria. Monootnia. Iris pseudaconis Schoenus nigricans albus Scirpus lacustris caespitofus palustris P^riopliorum vagiiiatum polystachion Nardus stricta DVGINIA. Alnpccurus geniculatus })ratensi8 I'balatis arundinacea Phleum pratense . AgrostB alba Tulgaris Aira fiexuosa coespitosa precox Holcus lanatus Mdica cfcnilca Poa trivial is pratensis annua fluitans Briza media Dactylus glomerata Cynosurus cristatus Festuca ovina clatior duriuscula Bromus mollis arvensis A vena fatua Arundo phragraitcs arenaria Lolium perenne Tri:icura repens Tetrandria. Scabiosa succisa Asperula odorata Galium boreale ■ saxatile ▼crum Monootnia. COVNTV OF SHETLAND. 151 Galium palustre Plantago major maritima media lanceolate coroDopus Alchemilla anrensis alpina TCTRANDRIA. TcTRAOTMIA. Poumogeton natens heterophyllum laoceoiatum Sagina procumbens PSNTAMORZA. MONOOTNIA. Myosotis anrensis Cflrapitosus Pulmonaria maritima Lycopsis arvensis Primula vulgaris Anagallis tenella Menyantbes trifoliate Azalea procumbens Jasione montena Viola canina tricolor Lonicera peryclimenum Hedera helix DlGTVIA. Gentiana campestris amarella Daucus carote Chsrophyllum sylvestre Angelica sylvatica Ligusticum Scoticum Carum carui Hydrocotyle vulgaris Heradeum spbondylium TSTRAOYNZA. Parnassia palustris PSMTAOTNZA. Statice armeria limonium Linum catbarticum HSXAOYNIA. Drosera rotundifolia longifolia HSXANDRIA. MoMOOTirXA. Scilla verna nutens Narthecium oosifragum J uncus effusus bifidus squarrosus uuginocus Juncus triglumis campestris sylvaticus HXXANDRIA. TrIOTNIA. Rumex crispus acetosa acetosella Triglocbin palustre Hsftandrza. Monootnia. Trientalis Europca OCTANDRIA. MOMOGTMZA. Epilobium palustre angustifblium raontenum Vaccinium rayrtillus Call una Vulgaris Erica tetralix cinerea Trxotvia, Polygonum amphibium persicbria bistorte aviculare DXCANORIA. MOVOOTMIA. Arbutus uva>ttrsi alpina DiGTKZA. Saxifraga oppositifolia TaiGYNIA. Silene maritima acaulis inflata Alsine media Arenaria peploides marina Norvegica(Hook.) Nov. sp. Cherleriatedoides PSWTAOTKIA. Sedum telephium ; album Affottemma gitbago Ly«hnis dioica flos-cuculi Ccrastium vulgatum viscosum latifolium tetrandrum Spergula arvensis ICOSANDRIA. PsiTTAaTKIA. Crataegus Oxyacantha Sorbus aucuparia Spira» ulmaria 162 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE ICOSAVDRIA. POLTOYMLA. Rosa tomentosa Rubos saiatiliB Potentilla ansciina Tormentilla officinalis Comanim palustre F0LYAM2>HIA« Fapaver rbaeas dubium MOVOOTKXA. PoLTflVIA. Thalietnim alpinum Raounculus acris flammuU rq>ena ficaria Caltha palustria Dtdtkamia. GrMKOsriauiA. Lamium purpureum intermedium Galeopais tetrahit Stacbys palustris ambigua Tbymus serpyllum Prunella vulgaris AifoiosraaMiA. Euphrasia officinalis Pedicularis palustris sylvatica TiraADTVAMIA. SiLICULOSA. Draba incana Tblaspi bursa-pastoris Cochlearia officinalis Bunias cakile SlUQUOSA. Cardamine pratensis petrsa Sinapis arvensis Rihapbanus raphanistnm M0NADEX.FUIA. DXCAXDRIA* Geranium molle pbsnim DiADSLPHXA. HsXANDRtA. Fumaria panriflora OCTAXDRIA. . Polygala vulgaris DSCAMDRIA. Ulex Europsus Anthyllus vulneraria Pisum maritimum Lathyrus pratensis Vicia cracca Trifolium rcpens pratense Lotus comiculatus POLYADKLPBIA. PoLYANBRlA. Hjrpericum pulchrum perforatum elodes Sykgsnxsla. jEquaus. Sonchus anrcnsis oleraceus Leontodon taraxacum autumnale Hicracium sylvaticum Arctium lappa Cnicus lanoeolatus arvensis Onopordum acanthium SuFsanuA. Tanacetum vulgare Artemisia vulgaris Gnaphalium aureum Tussilago fiirfara petasites Senecio vulgaiis jacobaa Solidago Virgaurea Bellis perennis Chrysanthemum leocanthemum inodonim Anthemis cotula Achillea millefolium ptarmica FaVSTRAKXA. Centaurea cyanus MONANDRIA. Gtkandria. Orchis mascula latifolia Satyrium viride MoNOffCIA. MOKANDRIA. Euphorbia helioscopia Trxandria.' Sparganium natans simplex ramosum Carex dioica ovalis arenaria rccurva binorvis ampullacea TcTRANnRIA« Littorella lacustris Urtica dioica COUNTY OP SHETLAND. 153 Myriopbyllum spicatum Betula alba DiOKCIA. DiANDRlA. Salii fuBca aurita Aspidium iilix mas filix fcemina Scolopendrium vulgare Osmunda regalis lunar ia Ophioglossum vulgatum aquatica herbacea Triandria. Empetrum nigrum Lycopodiacea. Lycopodium selago selaginoides clavatum OCTANDRIA. llbodiola rosea MOWADELPBIA* Juniperus communis Rquisetacea Equisetum arvense hyemale palustre sylvaticum POLTOAHIA. MOMOXCIA. Atriplex patula laciniata Extinct. Corylus avellana Finns— .(picea?) CRYPTOOAMIA. FtLlCES. Polypodium vulgare No indigenous trees are to be seen, if we except a few dwarf bushes of birch, willow, and mountain-ash. In one or two gardens, syca« mores and other trees, planted probably a hundred years ago, have attained the height of 40 or 50 feet, — the girth, within three feet of the ground, being above six feet. That trees have formerly grown in abundance in Shetland can hardly, I think, be doubted, from the absence of any appreciable peculiarity in climate or soil fatal to their growth, and from the general diffusion of their re- mains in the peat moors. Some of those peat trees were of no inconsiderable dimensions ; but, for the most part, they are of small size. From this, however, it cannot be fairly inferred that, * generally, the native trees were diminutive. Timber must always have been valuable in this country, and the inhabitants would na- turally consume all that was of any respectable size^— especially as no spot of ground is six miles from the sea in every direction, and therefore the woods would be easily accessible. But it is the opi- nion of some, that trees in size and quantity cannot now be reared in Shetland. The experiment, however, has never been fairly made. Let an intelligent and experienced forester, residing long enough in these islands to modify his experience to suit their cli- mate, superintend for a sufficiently long period, and on a scale of adequate magnitude, the culture of various kinds of hardy trees, and then, and not before, can the capabilities of Shetland, with regard to arboriculture, be ascertained. It is to be hoped that some spirited and far-sighted proprietor will ere long put the mat- 154 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE ter to the proof. On a question such as this, d priori opinions, thrown out at a venture, are entirely to be disregarded. It is a curious fact, for which there is high botanical authority, that cones of the silver fir f Abies piceaj have been found in some moors in Orkney. This tree is not indigenous to Scotland, but is common in Norway. It may, however, have been planted or its cones sown by some of the energetic and sagacious Norwegian Yark, who so long ruled the Orkney and Shetland Islands, and who were as remarkable for their attention to husbandry and fishing as to politics and war. Antiquities. — These consist of Pictish burghs (so called) and standing-stones. The former seem to have been fortified posts erect- ed by the Norse or Saxon rovers, — and the most perfect example of this structure anywhere in existence, is in the small island of Moossa, a few miles south of Lerwick. The remains of these burghs are very numerous throughout Shetland. The standing-stones are from twelve to twenty feet high, somewhat conical, and sunk a few feet in the ground. They were probably erected in commemora- tion of celebrated warriors, as were the ** Bautasteine'* of the Northmen. On some of these ston^ old people state that they have observed indistinct and strange-looking inscriptions, probably Runic; but these are no longer visible, nor do I know of any Runic remains in the islands. If the fashion of erecting monuments in honour of modern heroes shall penetrate to Shetland, this simple kind of pillar may be revived, as at once appropriate to the scenery, — economical and enduring. No traces of ancient domestic architecture occur ; perhaps the habitations were mostly of wood. Rude concentric circles, formed of turf and stone, are in some situations still to be seen ; the circles, three in number, are near each other; the diameter of the outer- most 30 feet These were, most probably, situations where legal justice was administered, sub plena Jove^ as was for centuries the fa- shion of the Norwegians. Tumuli are rather numerous ; but no- thing novel that I am aware of has been found in any that have been opened. No rocking-stones are to be met with. The ancient language was a dialect of the Norse, being similar to what is now spoken in the Faroe Islands ; but, for more than a century, it has been disused, and is now quite forgotten. From this latter cause, and from the destruction of every ancient record and document that the Earls Stewart and their Scottish retainers could collect, any old ballads or histories which Shetland might have possessed, have been lost Thai such did exist can hardly COUNTY OF SHETLAND. 1 65 be questioned ; for the geographical position, and many excellent harbours of this country, rendered it a favourite resort of the he« roic sea-kings; and there are yet extant in Faroe many sagas and poems (in some of which Shetland is mentioned). Those two groups of islands were for a long period united under one go« vernment and bishoprick ; but Faroe was fortunately not scourged, as was Shetland, by royal favourites and greedy adventurers, tak- ing advantage of the unsuspecting and defenceless Udallers, un- protected as they were by the Government of Scotland, to which they had been conditionally consigned, and ignorant of its language and its laws.* Population, — The population, under the Norwegian rule, may fairly be supposed to have fully equalled, in amount, what it now is. There exists, indeed, no documentary proof of this; butit is a reason- able inference, from what we know of the contemporary state of Nor- way and its other dependencies, all under the same government and state of society, and inhabited by the same race of people. This argu- ment, which I have elsewhere put forth, might be amply illustrated, did our limits permit A considerable population may also be inferred from the warlike achievements and great political influ- ence of the Earls of Orkney, of which country Shetland formed an integral part ; — the conclusion drawn by some of a great popu- lation, from the remains of numerous churches, appears to be un- tenable, for these churches were small ; and it was the habit (as it still is in Norway), for the clergyman to have several places of worship in a parish instead of one ; an arrangement apparently wisely adapted to the religious instruction of the people, though demanding a little more activity on the part of the pastor. A few years ago, the population was 31,000. Since then, it has been, I think, decreasing ; the seasons, latterly, have been dis- astrous ; and many of the young and able-bodied men have left the country. In many parishes, the women are in proportion to the other sex, as two to one. Under judicious management, however, the islands could probably maintain three times the present num- ber of inhabitants. To no quarter of the kingdom is emigration less applicable ; there is ample employment at home for the people, and their ha- * It is an interesting circumstance, that, according to ancient Norse authoritj, the celebrated Faeroese hero, Sigmund Bresterson, the confidential friend and com- panion in arms of the Norwegian CromweU, Hakon Yarl, and of his successful rival. King Olaf Tryggneson, first infroduoed Christianity into Shetland and his native islands, near the beginning of the eUveDth century. 156 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE bits do not render them fit subjects for the measure. The most of the men that leave Shetland enter the merchant navy, aod few eventually are heard of. They make good sailors, and their prac- tice at the oar is a^ near to perfection as this elegant exercise can approach. Ecclesiastical State. — There are twelve parishes in Shetland. -The stipends of the clergy absorb about a fifth of the whole rental, and several of them are above the minimum of L. 150. Thev are all valued at a fixed money rate. The serious consequences of this arrangement, were any important changes to take place in the value of the precious metals, will be at once perceived. Methodists, Seceders, Independents, and Anabaptists, are to be found, but no Catholics. Poor. — For the support of the poor, each parish is divided into certain districts, and a pauper is appointed to each, who resides a given number of days in, or receives a certain allowance from, each family. Collections at the churches are also regularly made for them. In this way their maintenance is lightly felt. Compul- sory assessments would, in Shetland, have most pernicious effects. The right to a share in Parliamentary representation was first granted to Shetland by the Reform Bill. In conjunction with Orkney, it now elects a county Member. The number of electors is 150. Education. — Education is on the same footing as it is in Scot- land in general. Parochial schools are established throughout^ assisted by those of the General Assembly. There are few in- dividuals who cannot read ; and writing and arithmetic are pretty generally acquired. Character of the People. — The people are not remarkable for size or muscular strength, but chiefly for hardihood and endurance of fatigue ; of a temperament rather versatile and sanguine than phlegmatic and persevering ; more apt for desultory and adven- turous, than for regular and continued exertion ; and this in some measure arises, doubtless, from the various and somewhat incom- patible occupations on land and water, to which they are early accustomed ; and from the lottery-like gains of a fisherman's occupation. Their manner and address are mild and respect- ful ; their enunciation smooth, and the tones somewhat pensive. The language is English, with the Norse accent, and many of its idioms and words. The old names of places are Scandinavian. They are fond of music and dancing, though they exhibit little COUNTY OP SHETLAND. 157 proficiency in these accomplishments. The violin is the only in- strument in usO) and the music is Scottish, with a few rude na- tive melodies. Music and dancing have been recently much dis- couraged, from a most erroneous notion that they lead to vicious excesses. The effects of such a check to an enjoyment in itself innocent, and to the love of home, fostered by pleasurable asso- ciations, can be easily imagined. The people are slavishly indulgent, or rather obedient to their children ; and this is perhaps one reason why gratitude, filial duty, and reverence for old age are not thought to be among their pro- minent virtues. Superstitions are prevalent, though they present little novel or interesting. Witchcraft, charms, and apparitions, are firmly believed in ; but the idea of fairies is becoming obsolete. Benefit Societies. — Benefit societies are not well adapted to their habits, the advantages to be derived from them appearing too dis- tant and contingent. A Fisherman's Fund, for the relief of widows, orphans, and infirm individuals, was established in 1810. The ca- pital, it is understood, is nearly L. 3000. The members, from death and withdrawal, are now so few, and it has become so un- popular, that its dissolution would be judicious, with due respect, however, to the rights of those having claims on it for relief. This measure has been, indeed, loudly demanded by most of the sub- scribers for these few years past, when the distribution of the fund amongst them would have been so very seasonable ; and it seems difficult to conceive upon what principle it can be expediently or equitably resisted. Temperance Societies. — Temperance societies have been esta- blished, but seem supererogatory in a country, on the whole, re- markable for sobriety ; their tendency is certainly to produce good, mainly by their indirect effect in leading people seriously to reflect on the imprudence of indulgence in stimulating beve- rages. Hospitality is a virtue of which my countrymen may be proud of the reputation. Long may they cherish the sentiment, as just as it is noble, that the visited is more honoured than the visitor. In the majority of cases, the favour lies most truly not on the side of the guest, but on that of the host ; and in a country where inns can hardly be said to exist, kindness to strangers becomes a sacred duty, which no temporary inconvenience can cancel. Cottars, — There are few British cottars who have at their com- mand, in ordinary seasons, and with common industry, a greater varies 158 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON .THE ty of food. Fish, flesh, fowl, milk, vegetables they have within their reach ; but if they are not perseveringly industrious to gain, they are as little frugal to keep ; and hence the extremes of plenty and want too frequently touch each other. The common position of a Shetland tenant may be stated thus : He pays L.5 or L.6 annually to his landlord. For this he has a cottage, in the construction of which there is room for improvement; a cow-house, corn and cab* bage yards; 10 or 12 acres of good ground, partly arable, and partly grass and meadow ; the right to cut as much peat for fuel, and turf for compost, &c. on the common as he can consume ; and pasture as many animals as he pleases oli it. Such a farm may produce twenty bolls of bear and oatmeal, and five tons of potatoes ; graze, in summer, three to six milk cows, and fodder, in winter, from seven to ten cattle of all ages. He may have as much poul- try, and as many geese and pigs, as he can manage ; the sea is always nearto supply him with fish for food, and sea- weed for manure; the produce of his summer fishing is generally sufficient to pay his rent The wages of day labour are high, when its effici- ency and a comparison with the circumstances of other countries are considered, and an active and faithful workman always has employment. How happens it, then, that he has frequently been brought to the verge of famine, of late years especially ? Partly from bad seasons ; partly because his desultory habits indispose him to regular and vigorous exertion on his farm ; partly because much of his industry is injudiciously applied ; and partly because a taste for luxuries, to which his means are not competent, is indulged. An example of this last point may be found in the fact, that about 40,000 lbs. of tea are con- sumed annually, the value of which would, perhaps, exceed the whole gross rental of the islands. He is too much habituated to imagine, that six months labour in the year should keep him com- paratively idle for the remaining six ; and, in the direction of his agricultural industry, he has gradually fallen into the practice of trusting to potatoes instead of corn, for his chief food, without pro- viding an extra supply of manure to keep the land in heart; this leads to the relinquishment of the culture of bear, which ripens sooner than oats, — is more productive, and less exposed to da- mage from the autumnal gales ; the land being impoverished yields little fodder and grass; his cattle are reduced in number and plight ; he and his family are imperfectly nourished for energetic exertion ; and a failure of the potato crop, which, in so variable a 4 COUNTY OP SHETLA>ID; 159 climate, must necessarily often occur, at once brings him to indi- gence. If he could be induced to provide three times the quan- tity of manure which he usually does, and which, in most cases, he could do with perfect ease, this alone would make him compa- ratively independent. His farm is usually taken for three or five years, occasionally by the year; but it is a point of honour and habit with most landlords, (which public opinion properly and vigilantly protects), not to raise his rent or disturb him in his possession, un- less for obvious crime or wilful insolvency ; and many examples exist, of the same family remaining for several generations on the same farm. He has thus almost all the benefit of a lease, while he himself is perfectly free to remove at short intervals; and this free* dom is a real one, from the number of ^* ley" farms and landlords in competition ; so that, while he obeys the laws, and retains his solvency, no subject of Great Britain can enjoy more unrestrained liberty. His attachment to country is not very strong, an effect which may, in some measure, arise from the love of a wandering life, in- duced by sailor habits, and which so many of the young men im- bibe, by going annually in the whalers to Greenland. This prac- tice has always been reprobated by the more sagacious proprietors and most justly. It is contaminating to the morals of the unsophis- ticated youth; it dissatisfies them with the regular and simple modes of living in their native country; it employs the period of life, when they should be acquiring the habits and knowledge of fishermen and farmers, in making them only half-sailors, and accustoms them to expenses which their ordinary industry at home cannot support; yet the attempts at salutary restraint here have been stigmatized as arbitrary oppression. This is only one instance, however, amongst many, in which Shetland proprietors have been cruelly traduced as the tyrants of their tenants, unable to appreciate either their rights or their capabilities, or the interests and duties of their own position. It was formerly a common practice, which is still followed in some -districts, for the tenant to give his land- lord a few days* work every year ; this was mutually beneficial, and in a country where regular daily labourers, as a class, are hardly to be found, was necessary. These days' work eventually formed part of the rent, and thus in reality were hired labour. Yet this, too, has been often railed against as unjust exaction, as if a Shetland cottar were above the sphere of day labour, or as if he might practise it for the benefit of any one except his landlord. 160 GENERAL OfiSERVATIONS ON THE The injurious consequences of indulging in such crude decla- mation, however well meant it may in some instances have been, were severely felt, in destroying confidence between tenant and master, and rendering the former discontented with his lot ; and this naturally conducts to a few remarks on the leading causes of the destitution of the last four years, which has claimed and received so much relief from a benevolent British community. The. more immediate cause, certainly, was a failure of the crops and fishing, — the more remote, but not less general or efficient, I should suggest, was a departure from the ancient relation between landlord and tenant. A Shetland proprietor holds his lands, it is true, by the same tenure as a Scottish ; but to insure fair and ade- quate returns he must, in most cases, view himself rather as a pro- prietor in a new colony (with which, in many points, Shetland is assimilated), or, if I may so speak, as the conductor of a compli- cated manufactory, than simply as a landholder having little other business to transact, besides merely granting leases and receiving rents; he must vigilantly excite and direct the energies of his tenants, — assist them with capital and counsel, — receive, and provide a mar- ket for the various produce of their industry,— ^keep a store con- taining every necessary article they may require, and carefully at- tend to the many subordinate arrangements of order and discipline which the peculiarity of their position and co-operative industry may demand. He must be at once landlord, merchant, farmer, fish -curer, and the banker also of his tenants ; or, if he is not himself able to undertake all this, he places his lands under the direction of some intelligent and responsible person as tacksman, who, under certain restrictions, manages the property as the owner would do. In either way, a close and kindly connexion between tenant and mas- ter subsisted, — the one had all his necessary and reasonable wants provided for, and the other had security for his rents, and each had a near interest in the other's welfare. It was the practice, in working this system, for the tenant to pay a low rent for his farm, and in return to receive a low price for certain parts of his produce, especially fish, and this mode of low reciprocal valuation was ob- viously more for the benefit of the tenant than the proprietor. Under this system the people prospered and were contented, and it afforded them facility for gradual and solid improvement ; but individuals, who either could not or would not see the wisdom of this arrangement, in a certain state of society, — entertaining theoretical views of political economy, suited only to great capital COUNTY OF SHETLAND. 161 and high commercial civilization, — were unceasing in their de- nunciations against the landlords, as injuriously compelling their tenants to deliver to them their produce at a less price than they could obtain in the market, while the countervailing fact was over- looked, of the proportionally low rent paid for the land. This ad capiandum argument was but too successful ; the tenants became dissatisfied ; many of them dishonestly eluded the compact by clan- destine disposal of much of their produce to others than their masters, while these were paid with low rents, — and at length they demanded to be at liberty to give their labour to the highest bid- der, and pay a higher mon^y rent to their landlord as a receipt in full of all his annual claims on them. Several of the lairds, se- duced by the specious but spurious simplicity of this free-trade view, annoyed by incessant and unjust charges of ignorance and oppres- sion, or willing to be relieved from irksome details, consented, and the rest were soon compelled to follow, or have their lands un- tenanted. For a few years, all went on pretty smoothly ; but the tenants had now fallen into the hands of a set of small shopkeepers, whose interest was not to secure their rents, or have regard to the per- manent prosperity of the tenant, but to exhaust his means in shop advances ; a result for which the system, rather than they, was to blame. Thus the tenants fell into habits of profusion and heavy arrears, and bad seasons supervening, the hollowness of the scheme at once became manifest. The shopkeepers (many of whom were also ruined) could not furnish supplies, because the tenants' substance and credit were exhausted ; and the landlords, in want of their rents, were little able to relieve them. Some of them did, however, interpose nobly ; and, but for their instrumen- tality, the tenants must in many instances have starved. The eyes of most people are now opened to the necessity of resuming the principle of the old system, which, in some instances, has been done, and already the a^ect of things is improving. One main point of this system, as I have already stated, is, that the greater part of the produce of the tenants' industry shall pass under the control of the proprietor, chiefly as a rent security ; and to make this have the appearance as well as the reality of mutual justice, the highest market price is allowed for it, while a fair money rent is paid for the lands. Under this mode of management of their property, much detail and active supervision are imposed on the landlords ; but there appears to be no alternative of extensive ap- plication except that of Uirowing their lands into pasture, and eject- SHETLANO. V im GBNBEAL OBSERVATCONS ON THE \ng the population from their natire country ; aud while it may be a questioa with mauy, whose opinions are entitled to respect, whe- ther this would he the more profitable plan, it ought only to be had recourse to as a last resource, so long as equity and good feel- ing are valued as paramount to iron-handed legal right. The proprietors hafe never been absentees; and if the nature of their possessions be such as to demand on their part industrious and de- tailed superintendence, they may console themselves with the re- flection, that in few parts of the kingdom is there a better field than in this, for substantial improvement and active benevolence^ or where the lords of the soil have more ample power for the good of the tenants entrusted by Providence to their care. Agriculture. — The natural soil of Shetland may generally be termed mossy, with those exceptions which the nature and outline of the subjacent rock, and the conditions of exposure produce. Much alluvial soil exists along the shores of the bays, and among the numerous small vales, and a considerable quantity of good land has been 'made by long culture. The mode of farming which has been from time immemorial in use, was probably introduced by the Norwegian colonists, and is not ill adapted to the circum- stances of the country, however much at first sight it may appear to be at variance with the theoretical principles of refined hus- bandry. The spade, of a light and peculiar construction, is the common instrument for turning over the soil, and it is surprising to observe the rapidity and efficiency with which it parfbmia its work. Many individuals employ the common Scotch plough, to which the ground in general is well suited, and were the farms larger, or co-operation among the occupiers more attended to, its employment might with great advantage be universal Some new land is annually broken up for cultivation ; but an ignorance of sound agricultural principles is here too often apparent, and leads to disappointment and loss. Carts are little used, — the absence of regular roads, the facility of water carriage, and the inconsiderable quantity of produce re- quiring transport, render their want the less felt Ponies with pack saddles are the chief substitute. The subject of road-making has deservedly attracted attention. In a country so indented by the sea, the employment of small steam-boats, using peats for fuel, might, for some time to come, be suggested as a substitute. The manures are, farm-yard dung, sea-weed, peat ashes. COUNTY OP SHETLAND. 163 and mould, generally mixed together. The labouring season be- gins in March, and terminates in May. The staple objects of cul- tivation are bristle-pointed oats, {Jvena strigosa^) perhaps one of the most valuable of all the varieties of dark oats ; bear, {Hot'- deum vulgare^) and potatoes. The common close cabbage has been long cultivated. The seed is sown in the end of June, in small circular inclosures, of about five yards in diameter, in poor ground, and manured with peat ashes alone, for the double pur- pose of preventing weeds, and premature luxuriant growth, and the plants are set out in rich soil, the succeeding spring. More recently, field turnips, on a small scale, have become general, and their culture ought, by all means, to be encouraged and extended. The soil and climate are very favourable for them. No instance of the fly, that I am aware of, has occurred ; and the only enemy to be dreaded is the mountain linnet, {FrtngiHaJiavirostris,) which is indeed a formidable one, and is very numerous in Shetland. These birds crop the cotyledonous leaves as they first appear above ground, with the seeds on the top, by which, perhaps, they are first attracted, and in doing this the young plants are torn up. I have often shot them in the very act of depredation, and have counted from 40 to 100 embryo turnips in the crop of one. The remedy is diligent watching for two or three days, after the first appearance of the plant. This bird is rare in the Scottish lowlands ; but congenerous species may have there done equal damage to the turnip crops, and the fact have been over- looked. The culture of potatoes is well understood, and is increas- ing, but yet little more manure is collected, and thus the old ara- ble ground is deteriorated, and the corn crop lessened. This is an abuse which proprietors would do well immediately to check, for it clearly proceeds from ignorance and indolence, and will have extensively injurious effects. A better rotation, or larger stock of manure, should in this case be compulsory on the tenant The disease of curl in potatoes may be said to be unknown. The ha- bit is, not to remove the tubers from the ground, until quite ripe, indicated by the total decay of the leaves and stem. Inattention to this, and planting in too strongly manured ground, I have long suspected to be the main cause of the failure of potato crops. The hay is chiefly the produce of natural meadows ; but, from the careless mode of management, it becomes malted, instead of being simply dried grass. This is evident from the smell errone- ously attributed to the presence of scented vernal grass, and in so IGJ. GENEUAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE moist a climate as that of Shetland, much nourishing matter, hav- ing become soluble by fermentotion, may be exhausted. Nothing can bo simpler or more certain than hay-making, if the circum- stances that produce malting be avoided. A good deal of coarse hay, known by the vernacular name of Tekkj is collected. It is composed chiefly of heaths and rushes, cut on the common and dried. Much of this is also used as litter, and it in this way fur- nishes an excellent ingredient of the manure used for bear. Little attention is paid to the artificial grasses, except by a few intelli- irent individuals, although rye-grass and clover are peculiarly suit- ed to the country, and would add very largely to its resources. It would be well if every cottar in Shetland were to follow the ex- ample of hb relatives in Norway, where, as Von Buch informs us, th easants of the northern coasts annually collect a large stock f sea-weed chiefly the Fucus digitatus^ which, afker steeping a . , ^^Q Iq fresh water, is carefully dried and stacked for winter |i f 1 Out fresh, and boiled sea- weed is occasionally, but spar- . I ifiven to cattle in spring in these islands, and it is evidently urishiog And wholesome. Proprietors would find it beneficial ](eep several pasture inclosures, as well as small islands for reariQg ^^^ fattening cattle, and for assisting their tenants in the keep of their regular stock, in the event of bad seasons and scanty fodder. The more general rotation of cropping isijirst^ bear, with the manure spread above after sowing, and it seems as rational, in cer- tain circumstances, thus to top-dress corn as grass. Potatoes come nextj then oats simply harrowed in. Ley, an essential ingredient in every good Shetland rotation, follows. Lastly^ oats, and again bear as before. Clearing the ground of weeds, draining, and opening the sub- soil, are little thought of, and yet in average seasons the crops are good. Harvest usually commences in September. The habit is too general to allow the corn to become dead ripe before cutting, which, in the case of oats, is, in this climate, most hazardous, for the chief danger is from high winds in autumn. It may be affirm- ed, that, if the principal cereal crop had been bear, or if the oats had been sooner cut, the better half of the corn crop of the last four years might have been saved. It is to be regretted, that, while the most minute details on other points of agriculture are made public, accurate indications of the ripeness of corn crops are left to individual conjecture. COUNTY OF SHETLAND. 165 The cattle, horses and sheep, of Shetland, are of races now al- most peculiar to it; possessing many of the good pointsof high breed, they add the invaluable one of hardihood. The cow is small, the four quarters seldom weighing more than 2 cwt. ; the quality of her milk is excellent, and its quantity, in relation to her size, abun- dant, sometimes reaching sixteen imperial quarts a*day. The ox is active^ gentle, and docile, and for draught is better suited to the present state of Shetland, than the horse. Both ox and cow are often 14 and 16 years old, before they are fattened for the knife, and yet the beef is observed to be tender, fine-grained, and highly flavoured. Owing to the scantiness of their winter fod- der, they are usually very lean, when put to summer grazing ; thus, much of the beef is what is termed new. Their food is natural pasture, containing many aromatic plants. T-he breed is a pecu- liar one, and the animal having arrived at adult age, the full fla- vour is attained, different in this from high bred stall-fed cattle, which, though they have reached their full size, have not gain- ed in all respects the maturity of their kind. Much beef is annually salted and exported. A little nitre is generally used in the curing; but it is an injurious addition. Simply strewing a sufficient quantity of bay salt, in largish crystals, between each layer of beef in the cask, applying pressure, and changing the pickle of a saturated strength two or three times, as it becomes foul or bloody, seems to be one of the best modes of curing beef, and which I myself regularly practise. The flesh of cattle killed, when the moon is growing, has been thought to stand curing bet-* ter than when it is in the wane ; and there may be reason in this ; a more plethoric and sthenic state may be induced in the animal, and hence a more tonic condition of the muscular fibre, and more vigorous health of the whole system. There 'are se- veral situations where flocks of brood cows, suckling their calves, and going out, all the year round, could be kept with great advantage ; they would require little more looking after than brood mares, and when old they are equally valuable for the butcher as when young. Cattle seem constitutionally har- dier than horses. Nature has adapted them to a wider geographi- cal range, while the native country of the horse is limited to a warm and dry climate, and he never can be brought to bear with impunity so great alternations of cold and moisture. The Shet- land poney is well known and generally esteemed for hardihood, strength, and spirit, in which he is surpassed by none of his size» 166 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE in any country. He does not arrive at perfection, till eight or nine years of age; seldom stands higher than 44 inches, for the most part about 38. The general colour is a dark mouse gray, and he is covered with long woolly hair, till three or four years old. He is singularly free from vice, but is not so docile or sa- gacious, as high bred horses. His attachment to the locality where he has been bom is obstinate, often pining for years of maladie de pays, and this instinct, when strongly marked in the lower ani- mals, is not usually accompanied with great sagacity. However, education and chivalry may have ennobled the horse, his title to the brute patrician order seems not an inherent one. The poneys range in herds over the common, in an almost wild state, and have little care or food bestowed on them, unless when engaged in labour, or during long snows ; a handful of food is, in this latter case, oc- casionally given to them, as a condiment to season the sea-weed drifted on the beach, and freshened by snow water, on which they must then sustain themselves. Yet, under these circumstances, continuing sometimes for months together, they preserve their health and plight. If they were stabled, they would lose their hardihood, and the habit of catering for themselves, and their keep would be far more expensive than the actual farming economy of the country could afford. When old, they are never killed, but allowed to live as long as they can. The sheep is small ; not often horned ; ears pointed and erect ; face, back, and tail short ; fine-boned ; legs long ; naturally wild, active, and hardy, and little liable to disease ; the colour generally white ; sometimes ferruginous, gray, black, and piebald ; the wool very soft and often fine. The more damp and mossy the pasture, the softer is the wool ; one of the causes of which probably is, deficient strength and nourishment ; another, the astringent na- ture of the food. Sheep-farming, as a separate object, is now at- tracting some attention, although it is not likely to be carried on to so much advantage as in the Scottish Highlands. There, the sheep-walks are mountainous and inland, naturally dry, and contain a greater variety of pasture plants congenial to the breeds of sheep suitable for such situations, than can be afforded by the comparatively level and damp moors of Shetland, producing chief- ly mat-grass and rushes. A serious casualty affecting the value of a Shetland flock, arises from the constant vicinity of precipices facing the sea, to which sheep are attracted by the tender grass growing amongst them, and great losses, by their falling over the COUNTY OF SHETLAND. 167 rocks, are often sustained. In the smaller grazing islands the ver- dure is luxuriant, consisting chiefly of /estucas, plantagat^ and staticey top-dressed by sea spray and exuviae of sea liirds, and in these, even the improved Leicester breed of sbeep thrives so well, as to be the most profitable of any. It is likely that our cattle, liorses, and sheep were derived from Norway; and it might not be fanciful to trace them even to the Caucasian range, the original seat of Odin and his people, whence they emigrated into Scandinavia with their families and flocks ; at least, there is a marked difference between our breeds of these animals and other well-defined European races. It might be, in many cases, of advantage, not only to preserve in purity, but also to trace the origin of, distinct breeds of animals, to facilitate im- provement without crossing ; but it is often as difficult to do this, as to determine the native country, in the wild state of certain do- mestic species. With regard to some of these, domestication may have been originally the rule, and the wild state the exception. No breeds of these three species of animals can, as a general rule, be better adapted to the Shetland Islands than those that are na- tive to them ; and, as they are always in great demand, we should do well zealously to cultivate them. All that is necessary is such a sufficiency of food and care as will not encroach too much on their natural habits and hardihood, and a persevering se- lection of the best animals for breeders ; yet, if premiums had been held out for producing change and degeneracy, it is difficult to imagine a course of management better calculated to produce them, than that which has mostly been pursued. A pernicious prac- tice has too much prevailed, of crossing with larger and incongru- ous breeds from Scotland ; and the progeny, as might have been expected, displays all the bad points, with few of the good, of the parents. A natural but rough antidote to these evils is, in some measure, to be found in bad seasons, which fall with fatal severity on the degenerate. One very evident and easy mode of improve- ment would be, for proprietors to keep males of a good race and ma- ture age, in different districts for general use, and insist on all infe- rior ones being removed ; and it could be easily so arranged that no party could suffer loss. The tenants suppose that every one's business is no one's ; and it hence, not unfrequently happens that calves and lambs, especially are wanting, because a sufficient number of bulU and rams are not reared, or those that are reared, are too young, or of a bad stock. Theannualloss to the country from this source alone^ 168 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE is far greater, than many not attending to the subject could ima- gine. Hogs are universal ; but with very little trouble, the people might keep many more than they do. These also are of a very peculiar breed, small boned, erect ears, woolly next the skin, active, hardy, and easily fed ; and the pork is of very delicate flavour. A strong prepossession is by some entertained against their going loose on the common, from an idea that their rooting on it is injurious. This, however, is not always well founded, as might easily be showD. Absolute restriction, however, from turning over the arable ground, should be rigidly enforced. Far from checking their increase, it should by encouraged, as adding greatly to the comforts and re« sources of the tenants. Geese are kept by several individuals, but large flocks might be reared by almost every ode. Why they are not, it is difficult to say. Perhaps their requiring a little more trouble than is ha- bitual, may be the very sufficient reason. Land is possessed not by the acre, but the markj as it seems to have been in the parent country, Norway, and others of her co- lonies. This word signifies, in the Norse dialect, a coin, a weight, a field, and, in the present case, it may be translated as meaning a share^ or proportional quantity of land. Shetland contains about 14,000 marks; and a proprietor is said to be a laird of so many marks, not acres. All the land, with the excep- tion of the small grazing islands, was anciently divided, as it still remains, into districts of unequal extent, termed scattaldsj and the boundary lines of each defined and recorded. Each of these contained a certain number of marks, some greater, and others less. The marks or shares in any one scattald are of equal value, though they may be very different, as compared with those of an- other ; for one district containing 200 marks may be less exten- sive and valuable than another containing 100. In the event of dividing a scattald possessed by several proprietors, each receives his proportion according to the number of marks or shares in it which his rental bears. These scattalds are again subdivided into, Istf enclosed and appropriated, and, 2c/, unenclosed and unap- propriated ground. The former contains the arable, grass, and meadow lands, which bear a very small proportion to the unenclos- ed or commons. This mode of division into districts or scattalds was, it appears to me, coeval with the settlement of the first Nor- wegian colonists. Each adventurer with his followers fixed him- self in a certain situation, and boundary lines between localities. COUNTY OP SHETLAND. 169 occupied by independent possessors, were determined, to prevent collision and encroachment. The division, again, into marks or shares was obviously to facilitate sale and succession. The read- er will here observe some curious points of resemblance between ancient Scandinavian, and very recently promulgated principles of colonization. In certain states of society it is expedient that por* tions of land should be held in community ; and, under any circum- stances, it is not apparent why joint-stock management should not have place in this as in other species of property. This iS} however, not a favourite doctrine in Shetland, for divbions of the commons, without any apparent agricultural object, are yearly tak- ingplace. As this processis expensive, and often vexatious, it might be as well previously to consider, whether more beneficial results, with less outlay, might not be obtained by divisions of parts of the commons, or by more prudent pro indivUo management of the whole, similar to what formerly was here the practice, and what has long been in operation under the orderly and well-digested sys- tem of rule carried on by the mild and paternal government of Denmark in the Faroe Islands. Property is in the hands of many individuals : a few heritors are comparatively large ones. The Earl of Zetland possesses a considerable entailed estate, which, however, from being much scattered over the country, is of far less value than it otherwise would he. The great benefit of exoambions is here most pal- pable. The value of land would be increased by concentration, management would be simplified and abridged, and the expenses of compulsory divisions diminished. The resident proprietors have been long actively anxious to effect exchanges with this only absentee landlord, on principles of equitable and reciprocal ad- vantage ; and it is to be hoped that the present worthy represen- tative of the family will perceive the propriety of removing an impediment to improvement, which has long pressed heavily on the islands. Long leases have often been proposed as a boon for Shetland peasants, and the landlords are quite disposed to grant them ; but it may be time enough to appreciate the value of this suggestioi^ vi^hen the tenants shall be disposed to accept them, which they ar^ not A more immediate and direct benefit would be produced were the landlords, instead of attending chiefly to the extensioD of their properties, to employ a part of the time of their tenants for hire, in improving the (arms by enclosing, draining, manure*^ 170 GENBRAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE collecting, spade-trenching, &c (opening with the mattock the subsoil, but leaving it in situ, as I have practised for several years), thus at once permanently raising their value, bene6tting the te- nants, and inuring them to regular and useful land labour. For instance, at a small expense each cottar could enclose such an ex- tent of ground as might nuae so much i^re-grass and turnips, from seed of his own growth, as would enable Urn to keep wmantiig an additional cow, and do ample justice to all the rest of his live* stock ; and if this simple expedient alone were universal, the ren- tal of the whole country would soon be greatly increased. It may be affirmed, that by this and other simple and economical improve- ments, on which our limits will not here allow us to enlarge, and by more persevering industry, the lands already under cultivation might be rendered much more productive, without conflicting with the general habits and routine of the people ; and such graftings on the old system are confessedly to be preferred to uprooting and expensive innovations, which too often are found to rest on nothing but the love of novelty and generalization. Fisheries. — Cod, ling, tusk, saithe, and herring are the spe- cies of fish caught to be cured for sale. Ling and tusk have been long the staple articles of Shetland export. The home of the lat- ter may, in Great Britain, be said to be confined to Shetland, and it is a peculiarly rich and highly-flavoured fish. Both these are fished with long lines in boats of 18 or 19 feet of keel, with a crew of six men. The distance of the fishing ground from the land varies from ten to forty miles. The lines are laid at midnight, the common bait is the young coal-fish, and the season is from the end of May to the middle of August But the fishing should be continued two months later, and. then during the day alone. Cod and ling then draw nearer the shore, and are more numerous and diflused. The favourite bait, herring, is then abundant, and danger is diminished. This autumn fishing will probably be more valued and prosecuted than it yet is. The fish are split, salted in tubs, and dried on the pebbly beaches, which are numerous, and exceedingly well adapted to the purpose from their smoothness, dryness, and admitting of a constant cur- rent of cool air below them. The art of fish-curing in this manner is well understood, and the essential principle of pining or pressure is in general duly and even scientifically applied. Since the lands, hpwever, have been under the pseudo-free system, and deprived of the beneficial superintendence of the lairds, the curing of COUNTY OP SHETLAND. 171 fish has been more slovenly, and their character in the market lowered. The chief season for fishing cod is April and May. For several years, this business has been carried on by numerous small decked vessels of from 20 to 40 tons, with hand lines, and shell- fish bait, and the fishing ground is the south and south-west sides of the coast The ling, tusk, and cod are also caught by small boats with hand lines at all seasons, but in comparatively li- mited numbers, and those got in winter are salted in heap till the spring drought arrives. The south and north extremities of the country are the localities where the saithe (Gadus carho" narius) are caught ; but there seems no reason why they should not be sought for with success, around the coast This is the most abundant and generally diffused fish in Shetland, if we may judge from the exuberant number of the young pervading every part of the shores. From saithe being caught with little ha- zard near land during summer, requiring small capital, and always selling readily in the home market, it will probably ere long be prosecuted as the most profitable and generally attainable branch of the fishing. The young of different ages and sizes called m/- lacks and piliacks^ are really the staff of life to the inhabitants of these islands, and they are both palatable and nutritious. The supplies of them, during the last four years of scarcity of bread^ have been providentially most abundant throughout, and but for this, notwithstanding the liberal charitable donations* frooa the south, famine must have occurred. Skate, haddock, halibut, and other kinds of fish are caught for consumption at home ; but they are little followed as separate objects of pursuit. As iar as the fishing by boats is concerned, it will be diflScult to point out a better mode than the one now in operation. The kind of boat is of the old Norway model improved, it is one of the finest combinations for rowing and sailing, and when not over-masted, (as it always is,) and under skilful and intrepid ma- nagement, is as safe as an open boat can well be. Boat fishing must, of course, often be hazardous here, as it is everywhere else ; but it has still advantages which will not permit its disuse. The losses that occur are mostly from mismanagement, and few acci- dents happen to boats in which the art of swimming would not be of vital use ; yet hardly a single fisherman acquires it, and an object of great moment would be its general introduction. The * In this work of benevolence the amiable and meritorious Society of Friends have been conspicuous, as diey erer'ttv^ in the sacred cause of Christian philanthropy. 172 OBNBKAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE use of small dro?e saib would also be highly advisable. From the increased number of boats, and the practice of going earlier in the season to the fishing, when the ling are spawning, the fish- ing grounds near the shore had become considerably exhausted. Proprietors, therefore, Tery prudently hare discouraged this prac* tice during the last eight years, and the good effects of this are de^ cidedly showing themselves. In fishing with decked vessels^ the sea ground between Shetland and Norway should be carefully explored, and there can be no doubt it ^ould amply remunerate the expense.* Herrings have been industriously fished by boats for the last twenty years, from the middle of August till the middle of Octo- ber'; and to the patriotic Sheriff- Substitute, Mr Duncan, is due the credit of first establishing this branch of industry. The em- ployment is, however, attended in these islands with mere danger than on the Scottish coasts, from the more stormy and irregular nature of the climate, the numerous boisterous tide-currents, and the smaller extent of land on which, in the event of off shore wind, the boats have to lie ; neither do the fish appear to be so abun- dant or so regular in their movements. Though herrings, as well as other fish, are found in shoals at certain seasons, it does not fol- low that they so congregate at other periods of the year ; the spawning grounds may be viewed as centres ; the feeding ones, as circumferences. If they could be fished earlier in the season, the hazard would be less, and the returns might be greater. Sufficient experiments to ascertain this have not yet been made, but, no doubt, soon will be, for capital, enter- prize, and intelligence, are not wanting in Shetland, for a judi- cious development of its marine resources. But enlightened views with regard to fisheries have been far from keeping pace in any country, with other objects of economical researcli. The experience of the fisherman, the science of the naturalist, the aid of the statesman and the merchant, should hll be put in requisition, to explore and enlarge this fertile source of national wealth. Periodicals, in which the fisheries occupied a prominent place, would be of great use, and it is singular that the subject has been so much overlooked in this age of magazines and reviews. A great many erroneous hypotheses, leading to ignorant and per- nicious practice, have too long been dominant in our knowledge of he habits and history of fish, of which the theory of the annual * Query,— Why has steam never been applied to fishing ? 3 COUNTY OF SHETLAND. 173 polar migration of the herring is an instance, and it is not to be supposed, that accurate and extensive observation, and cautious inference and analogy devoted to the subject, would fail in eliciting something like scientific principles, and in establishing most interest- ing and valuable practical results. Of all beings, the rude fisher- man is the most superstitious and theoretical, and almost all, we think, we know of the subject is derived from him. Trade. — Much intelligent commercial activity prevails. The exports consist chiefly of salt fish, oil, butter, beef, cattle, ponies, and hosiery ; the imports are, it may be supposed, very miscella* neous. A good many merchant vessels of respectable size, some of which have been built in the country, belong to it, and small fishing craft are very numerous. Leith is the great depot for Shetland produce. Manufactures^ — Knitting of various articles of hosiery and kelp making may be said to be the only native ones. They are especially useful as giving employment to that part of the population which would otherwise want profitable occupation ; and, moreover, in the case of kelp- making, asubstance becomes valuable, which otherwise would be left to waste away on the strand. Kelp was never so important an object in Shetland, as in Orkney and the Hebrides ; the shores are not so productive of the materials which afford it, nor is its quality so much prized ; but there is, doubtless, much yet to be learned in its chemistry and manufacture. Since the duty on barilla and other substances, in competition with kelp, has been taken off, its preparation has been almost laid aside, and its want is seriously felt. It is difficult to conjecture what other mo* tive, than a reckless adherence to the speculative dogma of Free trade, could have induced the British Legislature to inflict so severe a wound on the industry and resources of the Scottish islands, and which neither equity nor policy can honestly defend; much more oppressive and pernicious monopolies may tdce shelter under the mask of commercial freedom, than under the protective mantle of a prudent and patriotic government. Free trade is, af- ter all, only relative ; it has been imagined and described ; but when the globe shall become one vast Utopia, then only can we expect that its beau ideal will be realised. Among the advantages which Shetland might hope to derive from Legislative favour, a reduc- tion of the duties on timber generally, and particularly on boats from Norway, would be most valuable, and universally felt. These boats are imported in boards, and are of a class not in use in any 174 GENBKAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE Other part of the kingdom ; hence no temptation to smuggling would exist Another benefit would be a drawback on the duty of a limited quantity of tobacco, tea, and sugar, for the use of the fishermen, in the same manner as it is granted t^ merchant .seamen. The mail-steamer running all the year through would also be a signal boon, as bringing Shetland completely within the vortex of the British market, and no satisfactory reason has yet been given why this adrantage, often solicited, has been withheld. The Isles of Man and of the channel enjoy many peculiar and important privileges; distant colonies are pampered; and it might not be unreasonable to expect some fostering patronage and com- mercial indulgence to be extended to the long neglected Shetland Islands. March 1840. o a o CO O • SS c5 .1 J s o e2 COUNTY OF SHETLAND. I 5 Q O 3 J3 a! Q C <8 01 3 C B I QD CD • • • • • • • • • • • • • • o o o o o o S 2 '2 » ill III 't 9 o g »T* •*< 8 ► 8 W s lanoiny 2 *p3|SdAU} lunoiny 'jaquini^ I '^ 3 e S OS ha K to s 1 .2 00 o 00000 o o o ooeoceo o o I 8 o o 00000 o o o o 00000 o .0 10 30 cDOieox^ »o '^ ^ J ui stooqos I "* °P ^ (A i 8 '3 a I s 00 h4 8i«npiAipui sag 3 98 ; :8 S :S •uapaoasjo sjaiuawiQ a •OQ 'OQ •IBnpiAipur 15- =2S * =a 3 o) dui9uo[ •8q *sin«^ $ IK §f : : •1881-!"" la^i^ i liigi S IS i 60 a 175 INDEX. Agriculture and rural economy, 3, 13, 20, 27, 42, 54, 57, 76, 88, 93, 117 Aithsness and voe, 101 Antiquities, 3, 12, 25, 57, 59, 75, 87, 109, 154 Arch, natural, in Unst, 37 Armada, wreck of one of the, 110 Arms, ancient, found in Northmavlng, 75 AsU, lake, 68 Balta Sound, 38, 48 Bard Head, 8 Barrows or tumuli in Sandsting, 112 Bastavoe, 83 Bays or voes, various, in Fetlar, 23 — in Northmaving, 71 — in Unst, 38 Bigga, island of, 82 Blue Mull Sound, 24 Blumel Sound, 36 Botany, 74, 108 Bressay, Burra, and Quarff, united pa risbes of, 7 Bressay, island of, 7 — sound, 1, 9 Brindister voe and village, 101 Brough, ruins of Picdsh castle at, 57 Bimess house, 38 BurJcns, land, and their origin, 63 Burghs or forts, ruins of various, 111 Burm island, 9 — frith, 38 Burying places, ancient, in Bressay, 12 — in Sandsting, 110 — in Unst, 40 Busta house, 57 — standing stone of, 57 Cattle, breeds of, see Live-stocjc Cave, artiticial, at Trondavoe, 57 Caves, various, in Bressjiy, 7 Character and habits of population, 27, 76,87,116,156 Christianity, introduction of, 155 Cliromate of iron, working of, in Fetlar, 23 Chapels, ruins of ancient, in Tingwall, 59— in Unst, 40 Church, our Lady's at Weesdale, and tradition relating to, 69 Churches, establii»hed, sec Ecclesiasti- cal Statistics Cliff loch, 37— sound, 9 C'fimate, see Meteorology Clousta voe, 101 Cod tishorv, see Fisheries SHETLAND. Colgravc Sound, 24, 32 Conversion, compulsory, of the Earl of Zetland, 97 Copper, attempts to work, at Fithill, 93 Cottages of Shetland, the, 138 Cottars, condition of the, 158 Crops, the principal, raised in Sandsting, 124 Crucifield, Druidical remains at, 39 Cullinsgarth, ruins of chapel at, 12 Culsteniess, cave at, 57 Current, rapidity of the, in Yell Sound, 82 Dairy husbandry and management, 124 Danes, conquest of the Shetland Islands by, 60 Del ting, parish of, 56 Destitution in Fetlai and Yell, 35 Dissenters and Dissenting Chapels, 17, 22, 33, 49, 56. 58, 79, 90. 95, V3r> Dorholm rock and arch, 72 Drongs rock, the, 71 Druidical or Pictish circle in Northnhi- ving, 75 Dunrossness, parish of, 93 Eagleshey, island of, 71 Ecclesiastical Statistics, 5, 16, 21* 32, 49, 58, 69, 79, 90, 95, 135, 156 Education, statistics of, 5, 17, 22, 33, 49, 55, 58, 70, 80, 95, 136 Fair Island, the, 93. 95 Fairs and markets, 81, 137 Fetheland, island of, 71 Fetiar and North Yell, united pari-shes of, 23 Fetlar, island of, 23 Fisheries, cod, ling, &c. 15, 21, 29, 46, 54, 58. 67, 78, 130— herring, 4, 16, 30, 46, 54, 58, 67, 94 Fisherman's fund, the, 137 Fishing boats, frequent loss of, 86 — ^loss of seventeen in 1832, 45 — of four in 1832,86 Foreholra, island of, 100 Fort at Culswick, ruins of. 111 Fortifications, ancient, on Kirkholm, 109 Foula, cliffs of, 145 — island of, 19 Fuel, 19.52,81,95, l;J8 Carder House, 115 178 SHETLAND. Gardner, Rev. James, induction of, at Qiiarff, II Garth house, 57 Geology and Mineralogy, 10,20, 24, 54, 73, 95, 93, 103 Giant's Leg, the, 8 Girlsta lake, 68 Gluss, inland of, 71 Government, form of, under the Danes, 98 Gremista House, 3 Gruting Bay, 100 Gullcrwick, ruins of chapels at, 3 Gunista, niins of church at, 12 Gunister, island of, 71 Haaf Grunie, island of, 38 Hammer Head, the, 8 Handmill, ancient, 112 — extensive use of the, 115 Hangcliff Head, 8 Harbour, remains of ancient, at Bfirra- voe, 57 Harbours, various, in Tingwall. G8 Hascusaey, islai.d of, 82 Hermanness, the most northern point of Shetland, 34 Herring fishery, see Fisheries Hcvera island, 9 Hills wi.k bay, 71 Hindigarth head, 83 Holm of Noss, the, 8 Horses, the Shetland breed of, 74 Hosiery, manufactory of, 10, 47 House island, 9 Huna island, 38 Husbandly, systems of, 13, 28, 43, 76, 117 — cause, of the bad system of, 77- 92 — inii)rovements of, in Tingwall, 65 Improvements in Yell, 91 — hindrances to, 92 Inns and alehouses, 51, 138 Islands, various, attached to Northma- ving, 71 — to I'nst, 38 Kelp, manufactory of, 16 — decrease of, 134 Kirkholm, island of, 100— fortifications on, 109 Lambaness, 49 Lanima, island of, 71 Land, burdens on, and their origin, 63 — former method of subdivision and valuation of, 2 Leases, reluctance to take, on the part of the tenants, 43 Lerwick, parish of, 1 Libraries and literature, 34, 50, 95 Lighthouse, need of, at BalUi, 48 Live-stock, breeds of, 28, 45, 78, 89, 123 LocliSf jiumerous, in Saudsting, 102 Lunasting church, 55 Lunnafirth, 82 Lussetter, Ness of, 83 Maiden Skerry, the, 72 Mainland island, the, 145 Manufactures, various, in Lerwick, 4 — of hosiery, 16, 47— of kelp, 16, 134 Marches, fixing of the, 64 Meteorolog)' and climate, 72, 84, 99, 145 Mid and South Yell, parish of, 82 Midyell voe, 83 Mildew, destruction of the crops by, 66 Mineralogy, see Geologj' Mossbank house, 57 Muckle Roe, island of, 99 Muness Castle, ruins of, 39 Nesting, parish of, 53 Nibcn, island of, 71 Northmaving, parish of, 70 North Roe, ruins of church at, '75 North Yell, island of, 23 Norwick bay. 38 Noss island and sound, 73 Nunsburgh Ness, 101 Obelisks, ancient, at Grenwell and Uyea, 39 Ollaberry, ruins of church of, 75 Ord head, the, 8 Osse Skerry, the, 72 Papa, island of, 9 — Little, island of, 101, 102— Stour, island of, 19 — Sound, 19 Pauperism, see Poor Pictish Remains in Bressay, 12 — at Brough, 57 — at Lerwick, 3 — in Northmaving, 75 — in I'nst, 59 Plough, the old Shetland, 65 — disuse of, 117 Pony, the Shetland, 74, 125 Population returns, 3, 12, 20, 20, 41, 54,57,64,76,87,93, 115 Poor, management of the, 6, 18, 22, 34, 51, 55, 58, 70, 80, 91, 137, 156 Quarff, parish of, 8— church, 1 1 Quarries, chroniate of iron, 45 — free- stone, 4 — limestone, 45— slate, 15, 65 Quern or handmill, extensive employ- ment of, 115 — ancient^ 112 Qnoyhouse loch, 37 Ramnastacks, 72 Reawick house, 115 Rent, rates of, 13, 27, 44, 54, 57, 63, 129 Rona's hill, 70 St Magnus's bay, 71 St Ninian, introduction of Christianity into Shetland by, 60 Samphrey, island of, 82 Sand house, 1 15 Sands, drifting of the, and injury done to X\xe \wvd therebv, 94 INDEX. 179 Sandsound voc, 100 Sandstiiig and Aithsting, united parishes of. 97 Savings bank, G Saxa Vord hill, 37 Scalloway castle, 60 — village of, 60 Schools, sec Education ScroflUa, prevalence of, in Yell, 84 Selivoe, 100 Sheep, diminution of the number of, 64-— the Shetland breed of, 126 — see also Live-stock Shetland islands, general observations on, 145 — agriculture, 162 — alleged discovery of, 97 — antiquities, 154 — botany, 150 — diseases prevalent in, 147 — ecclesiastical statistics, 174 — fisheries, 170 — geology, 147 — history, 60 — live-stock, 165 — manufactures, 173— population, 155 — zoology, 148 Shipping belonging to Lerwick, 5 Sinclair of Strom, residence of, 69 Skeld, ruins of church and fort at, 1 10 — voes of, 100 Skerries Islands, the, 53 — church, 55 Small-pox, ravages of, in Unst, 41 Societies, benc^t, 157 — friendly, 18— temperance, 157 Spade, general use of the, 77, 91 Springs, remarkable, on the summit of Rona*8 hill, 73 Standing stones at Skeld, tradition rc- ganling. 111 Steinbartes, or stone axes of the Shet- landeis, 1 13 — found in Tingwall, 59 Stenness, island of, 71 Stream Sound, the, 9 Strom, lake and castle of, 68 . Sulom voe, 56 Sumburgh head and lighthouse, 94, 145 Superstitions, various, 141 Swine, the Shetland breed of, 128 Tides, rapidity of the, 38 Tingwall lake, 68 Tingwall, Whiteness, hnd Wcesdale, united parishes of, 59 Trout, peculiar methods of taking, 107 Tumuli, ancient, in Ting\vall, 59 Ullhouse, 57 Umphray, Rev. William, bequest by, 1 1 Unicorn rock, the, I Unst, parish of, 36 Urns, stone, found in Unst, 40 Uyea sound and island, 38, 48, 7 1 Vaila, island and sound of, 19, 100 Valleyfield hill, 36 Value of land, produce, &c. at different periods, 139 Yemen try, island of, 101, 102 Voes or bays, various, in Northmaving, 71 — in Sandsting, 100 — in Tingwall, 68 Vord hUl, the, 37 Wages, rates of, 14, 44, 129 Walls, parish of, 19 Ward hill, the, 7 Waste land, improvement of, 66 W^atch-house, ancient, on Rona, 75 Watly loch, 36 Weapons, the ancient, of Shetland, 1 12 Weesdale, island of, 59 Weights and measures used in Shetland, 140 West Burrafirth, 101 Whalefirth voe, 83 y^lialsay, church of, 55 — house, 54 — island of, 53 — sound, 54 Whiteness church, 69 — island of, 59 Wrecking, propensity of the population to, 146 Yell, island of, 23, 83— sound, 82 Yell, Mid and South, parish of, 82 Zoology, 10, 24, 74, 86, 107 raiNTID BY JOHN STARK, OLD ASSSMBLT CLOSK, EDIIfBUROH. GENERAL INDEX. VOL. XT. a GENERAL INDEX. Aan water, xl Kincardine, 231, 232 Abbethune house, xL For&r, 497 Abbej, coal at, vL Lanark, 81 Abbey, village of, it Haddington, 4 Abbey, village of, >m Stirling, 228, 427, 432 Abbey of Arbroath, xi. For&r, 77 Abbey of Cambuskenneth, viii. Stirling, 425 Abbey of Coupar Angus, x. Perth, 1143 Abbey of Croosraguel, v. Ajrr, 782 Abbey of Culross, x. Perth, 600 Abbey of Dryburgh, il Berwick, 27 Abbey of Dull,'x, Perth, 765 Abbey of Duadrennan, iv. Kirkcadbright, • 357, 362 Abbey of Eccles, ii. Berwick, 57 Abbey of Feam, xiv. Ross, 25, 361, 440 Abbey of Ilolywood, iv. pumfriesi 558 Abbey of Incheffray, x. Perth, 749 Abbey of Jedburgh, iii. Roxburgh, 7, 8 Abbey of Kelso, iil Roxburgh, 308, 317 Abbey of Kilwinning, v. Ayr, 816 Abbey of Kinloss, xiii. Elgin, 206 Abbey of Lincluden, iv. Kirkcudbright, 232 Abbey of Luce, iv. Wigton, 68 Abbey of North Berwick, ii. Haddington, 326 Abbey of Paisley, vii. Renfrew, 169, 203 Abbey of Pluscarden, xiiu Elgin, 8 Abbey of Scone, x. Perth, 1055 Abbey of Soulseat, iv. Wigton, 87 Abbey of Sweetheart, iv. Kirkcudbright, 249 Abbey of Tongland, iv. Kirkcudbright, 88 Abbey of Whithorn, iv. Wigton, 64 Abbey church, Dunfermline, ix. Fife, 852 Abbey church. Paisley, vii. Renfrew, 193 Abbey parish of Paisley, see Paisley Abbey bridge, coins found at, iiL Rox- burgh, 13 Abbey Craig cliffe, viii. SUrling, 220, 223, 227 Abbeyfield, plantations at, v. Ayr, 3 Abbej'green, village of, vi. Lanark, 30, 38 Abbeyiand of Turriff, xii. Aberdeen, 988 Abbey, St Bathans, pariah o^ ii. Berwick, 105 Abbeytown bridge, viii. Stirling, 281 Abbcywell, Urquhart, xiii. Elgin, 46 Abbotrule, suppressed pariah of, iil Rox- buigh, 98, 280, 290 Abbotsford house, iii Roxburgh, 53, 62 Abbotshall, parish of, ix. Fife, 146 — town, 159 Abbotshaugh, the, viii. Stirling, 24 Abbotts isle, the, vii. Argyle, 516 Abbofa tower, Jedburgh, iil Roxburgh, 11 Abbot's tower. New Abbey, iv. Kirkcud- bright, 250 Abbofa walls, ruin called, xl Kincardine, 201 Abden house, ix. Fife, 804, 811— remains at, 809 Abdie, pariah of, ix. Fife, 47 — church, ruina of, 51 Aber mill, viii. Dunbarton, 215 Aberarder, chapel at, xiv. Invemeaa, 519 Aberargie, village of, x. Perth, 879 Aberbrothock, aee Arbroath Abercaimey house, x. Perth, 250, 257 Aberchalder, property of, xiv. Invemeaa, 514 Aberchirder, village of, xiii Banff, 382— parish, see Mamock Abercom, parish of, il Linlithgow, 18 — castle and property, 23 Abercom foundery. Paisley, vii Renfrew, 275 Abercrombie or St Monans, parish of, ix. Fife, 337— village, 348— church, ruina of, 348 Aberdalgie and Dupplin, united pariahes of, X. Perth, 875 Aberdeen, city of, xil Aberdeen, 1— uni- versities, 1 1 39 Aberdeenshire, observationa on, xii. Aber- deen, 1132 • Aberdona houae, viii Clackmannan, 127 Aberdour, pariah oi, ix. Fife, 716 — vil- lage, 717— houae, 718 Abeniour, pariah of, xil Aberdeen, 258«i bay, 260— New, village of, 265, 270 Aberetle iale, viii. Dunbarton, 222 Aberfeldie, village of, x. Perth, 697, 770 Aberfoyle, pariah of, x. PerUi, 1150— battle at, 1104 Abergeldie houae, xil Aberdeen, 650 Aberiachan bum and falla, xiv. Invemeaa, 4,39 Aberlady, pariah of, il Haddington, 249 —bay, 44, 250— village, 249, 254, 25« Aberlemno, pariah o^ xl For&r, 626^ atones of, 631 IV GENERAL INDEX. Aberlour, parish of, xiii Banff, 110— burn, 111— daugh, I12_di8tillery, 120 — house, 116 Aberluthnott bum, xL Kincardine, 298 — ancient parish of, 297 Abermilk, ancient parish of, iv. Dumfries, 203 Abemethy, parish of, xiii. Elgin> 92— fo- rest, 57 Abemethy, parish of, x. Perth, 838 — an- cient town, 841 — round tower, 847— village, 857, 859 Abemyte, parish and glen of, x. Perth, 219 Abertarff, annexed parish of, xiv. InTe> ness, 51 Aberuchil house, x. Perth, 584 AbheaHch loch, xiv. Ross, 172 Abington, camp at, vi Lanark, 503 — gold found at, 500 — village, 505 Aboyne, bridge of, xii. Aberdeen, 788, 790, 1066— castle, 1055— spring, 788 Aboyne castle and village, xi. Kincar- dine, 232 Aboyne and Glentanner, united parishes of, xii. Aberdeen, 1047 Abroch bum, viii. Stirling, 139 Abmthvcn church, ruins of, x. Perth, 290 Accraploch quarry, v. Bute, 9 Achacharra, Druidical remains at, vii. Arg>'le, 349 Achadashenaig house, vii. Argylc, 357 Achalick bay, vii. Argyle, 360 Achall loch, xiv. Ross, 74 Achallader castle, ruins of, vii. Argyle, 96 Achally hill, x. Perth, 1024 Achanacy hill, xiii Banff, 389 Achandrane village, vii. Argjle, 27 Achancilan moss, vii. Arg}'Ie, 127 Achantiobairt, mins at, vii. Argjie, 25 Achar, obelisk at, vii. Argyle, 242 Achardale, clachan of, xv. Caithness, 74 Acham cascade, &c. x. Perth, 455 Achastle castle, ruins of, xv. Caithness, 91 Achavanich, rocks at, xv. Caithness, 87 Achbreck chapel, xiii. Banff, 140 Achchipster, district of, xv. Caithness, 79 Achenkill, ruins of cllapel at, viii. Dun- barton, 141, 143 Achenreoch house, xi. Forfar, 666 Achenreoch loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 347 Achenskeoch cnstle, ruins of, iv. Kirk- cudbright, 216 Achentorlie house, viL Renfrew, 198 Achilt, Ben, xv. Caithness, 84 Achilty' loch, xiv. Ross, 236 — remains at, 237 Achimore hill, v. Bute, 107 Achin, see Aldn Achinbee, chapel at, viii. Dunbarton, 141 Achinblae, village of, xi. Kincardine, 68, 89,90, 102, 103 Achincass, fall at, iv. Dumfries, 125 — castle, ruins of, 127 S Achindarroch house, vii. Aigyle, 262 Achinduin castle, ruins of, vii. Argyle, 24 1 Achinlaich castle, mins o^ x. Perth, 355 Achinstarej, Roman road at, viii. Dun- barton, 141 Achleck, falls of, vii. Argyle, 1 66 Achlee, remains at, xi. Kincardine, 182 Achleeks house, x. Perth, 569 Achlishie, cave at, xi. For&r, 177 Achlunies house, xi. Kincardine, 191 Achlyne house, x. Perth, 1086 Achmithie caves, xi. Forfar, 491 — Til- lage, 498, 513, 515 Achmore, district of, x. Perth, 702— house, 710, 1086 Achnacarry house, xiv. Inverness, 119, 122 Achnacloich loch, xiv. Ross, 264 Achnacree house, xi. Forfar, 313 Achnacroish harbour, vii. Ajgylc, 230— house, 288 Achnagol village, viL Aigyle, 27 Achnahow glen, xv. Sutherland, 1 34 Achnamoin, spring at,xv. Sutherland, 1 38 Achnara, chapel at, xiii. Banfi^ 140 Achneem, rocks at, xiii. Nairn, 21 Achness, xv. Sutherland, 69 Achnuallan, remains at, xiv. Inverness, 470 Achpheadair, district of, xv. Caithness, 79 Achrannie, slugs of, xL Forfar, 423, 637 Achray tech, x. Perth, 350, 1150 Achrenny, mission of, xv. Caithness, 79 Achrhea house, xiii. Nairn, 2 Achniglen tower, ruins of, v. Ajt, 846 Achumore, spring, &c. at, xv. Sutherland, 107, 108 Achvaich, strath of, xv. Sutherland, 2 Ackergill, liav and tower, xv. Caithness, 119, 134, 141— house, 143 Ackemess, xv. Orkney, 116 Acnashine farm, xiv. Roas, 241 Acraig, spring at, xv. Caithness, 70 Ad water, vii. Argjle, 678 Adam and Eve, trees called, v. Bute, 1 00 Adam's castle, ruins of, xi. Kincardine, 314 Adamstown, plantations at, xi. Forfar, 653 Adder law, iv. Dumfries, 170 Adie hill, xiii. Bimff, 246 Adigo loch, xiv. Robs, 160 Adniston, property of, ii. Haddington, 182 — house, mins of, 184 Advie, annexed parish of, xiv. Invemes"*, 432 Advocates' h*brary, Edinburgh, i. Edin- burgh, 645 Ac water, iv. Dumfries, 40, 67, 378 Aebercurnig, ancient monasterv of, ii. Linlithgow, 18,23 Aen water, xi. Kincardine, 231, 232 AfTaric loch, xiv. Inverness, 484, 490 Affleck castle, ruins of, xi. Forfar, 486 Af^brsk, den of, xiii. Banff, 273 Affric loch, xiv. Inverness, 363 QENEBAL INDEX. Afton lodge, v. Ayr, 757-— water, 509, 510 Aflon Bridgend, village of, v. Ayr, 520 Agal>atha, fbrt of, ix. Fife, 28 Agston, village of, ii. Berwick, 89 Aharcle, quocul tacra pariah of, vii. Ar- gj'le, 158 Aheurich glen, vii. Argyle, 125 Aich hill, viii. Dunbarton, 156 Aigas house and isle, xiv. Invemcfss, 488 Aigle, see Edzell Aigrish isle and house, xiv. Inverness, 362 Aikenbrae, remains found at, iii. Perth, 87 Aikengalls, minerals at, ii. Haddington, 235 Aikenhauld church, ruins of, xi. Forfar, 291, 302 Aikenhead, property of, vii. Renfrew, 495, 500 Aikenway, property of, xiii. Banff, 364 — Elgin, 228, 231 Aikemeas house, xv. Orkney, 200 Aiket castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 294 Aikman's hospital, vi. Lanark, 291 Aikrigill tower, ruins of, xv. Caithness, 141 Ailsa craig, v. Ayr, 10, 381 Ainart loch, vii. Argyle, 122, see also Ey- nort Aird linn, iv. Dumfries,. 474 Aird of Farr, xv. Sutherland, 68 Aird of Fergus, xiv. Inverness, 423 Aird of Inch, iv. Wigton, 81 Aird of Kirtomy, xv. Sutherland, 67, 68 Aird of Lochbroom, xiv. Boss, 74 Aird ofTong, xiv. Boss, 117 Airdit hill, ix. Fife, 218 — castle, ruins of, 223 Airdlamont head, vii. Argyle, 360 — hoxise, 359, 365 Airdler, remains on, xii Aberdeen, 385 Airdmeannoch, district of, vii. Argyle, 297— caves in, 299 Aird-mhic-ceolain house, xiv. Inverness, 246 Airdniskich, xv. Sutherland, 68 Airdrie hill, ironstone pita, vi Lanark, 647— house, 244, 958— town, 244, 245 chapel, 247 Airdrie hill, Crail, ix. Fife, 942— house, 942 Aird's house and bay, vii. Argyle, 218, 516 Aird's moss, v. Ayr, 323, 325 Aires, rocks at, iv. Wigton, 104 Airgiod hill, x. Perth, 659 Airhouse, plantations on, ii. Berwick, 91 Airi-Innis loch, vii. Argjle, 166 Airies moss, organic remains at, iv. Wig- ton, 12 Airlie, parish of, xi. Forfer, 670 — castle, 422, 423, 448, 671, 676, 678— house, 174, 681— plantations, 445 Airlywight house, x. Perth, 434 Aimcoth hills, ii. Linlithgow, 55, 120 Airs of Selivoe, the, xv. Shetland, 100 Airth, parish of, >iii. Stirling, 280— castle, 281, 283— hill, 280— minerals at, 144 —village and harbour, 281, 284, 285 Airthmithie, village of, xi. Forfar, 240 Airthrey castle and park, viii. Stirling, 215, 221, 227— mineral spring, 227 Aish loch, XV. Sutherland, 214 Aite Suidh Fhin hill, xiv. Inverness, 218 Aith bav, xv. Shetland, 23 — burial ground, UO-lschool, 136 Aith loch, XV. Orkney, 46 Aithbanks fisheries, xv. Shetland, 30 Aithemie, remains found at, xi. Fife, 268 Aithsness, x v. Shetland, 1 01 ~ remains at. 25 Aithsting, annexed parish of, xv. Shet- land, 97 Aiths voe, xv. Shetland, 101 Aitnach craig, ruins on, v. Ayr, 219 Akermoor loch, iii. Selkirk, 36 Akin Kvle, xiv. Inverness, 134 — Rosis 178, 184 Aladale glen, vii. Argyle, 125 Albie thorn, the, iv. Dumfries, 183 Alclud, ancient town of, viii. Dunbarton, 3 Aldarder bum, xiii. Elgin, 62, 69 Alder hill, xiv. Inverness, 505 Alderbeck house, iv. Dumfries, 280 Aldemie bum, xiii. Banff, 356, 359 Alderston house, ii. Haddington, 6 Aldgirth bridge, iv. Dumfries, 461 Aldham, annexed parish of, ii. Hadding- ton, 29 Aldhouse, village of, vi. Lanark, 893, 898 Aldie bog, ix. Kinross, 47 Aldie castle, ruins of, x. Perth, 1120 Aldinny bum, x. Perth, 426 Aldowie house, xiv. Inverness, 373 ^ Aldregnie bum, xiiL Banff! 126 Aldyleth quarry, xiii. Banff, 248 Aldyoulie bum, xiii. Elgin, 62 Ale water, ii. Berwick, 131, 319, 366— iii. Roxburgh, 24, 35, 87, 88, 241, 268, 270, 428 Alemoor loch, iii. Roxburgh, 88, 270 Alexandria bleachfield, viii. Dunbarton, 225— village, 228 Alford, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 485— bridge, 519 Alin loch, vii. Ai^gyle, 168 A 1 Inch water, xii. Aberdeen, 1049 Allachie hill, xiii. Banff, 11 1 — daugh, 1 12 Allachoy bum, xiii. Banff, 1 12 Allnchy water, xiL Aberdeen, 1049 Allan bay, iv. Wigton, 23 Allan water, x. Perth, 298, 312, 315, 1039,1160 Allan water, iii Roxbuig;h, 53, 425, 428, 460 Allan water, viii. Stirling, 216, 306 Allanbank, ii. Berwick, 269 — paper mills, 271— chapel, 276 Allander water, viii. Dunbarton, 36, 37, 38— StirUng, 169 Allanmouth peel, iii. Roxburgh, 428, 433 VI OENEfiAL INDEX. Allan's hospital school, viii. Stirling, 441 Allans, rocks called, v. Bute, 78 Allanshaw, vi. Lanark, 269 Allanton beg, camp at, v. Ayr, 1 82 Allanton bum, iv. Dunlf^ie^ 460 Allanton collieries and ironworks, vi La- nark, 610, 775--haugh, 257— house, 616, 620, 958-.property, 619 Allanton mineral spring, ii. Berwick, 266 —village, 267 A Hardy ce castle, ruins of, xi Kincardine, * 9 159 Aliermuir hill, i. Edinburgh, 108, 324 Allerton, limestone at, vi. Lanark, 882 Allerton quarry, vii. Renfrew, 387 Alliacaig, dun of, xiv. Ross, 448 • Alloa, parish and town of, viii. Clack- mannan, 1 — breweries, 51 — collieries, 25 — glassworks, 49 — house and park, 17, 37, 43— tower and wood, 2, 42 Alloway, annexed parish of, v. Ayr, 2— kirk, 38 Almagil hills, iv. Dumfries, 206, 371, 373 Ahnericlose house, xi. Forfar, 498— mills, 501 Ahnond water, I Edinburgh, 134, 135, 357, 434, 435, 589, 594— ii. Linlith- gow, 76, 90, 115,150 Almond water, x. Perth, 7, 142, 144, 163, 165, 199, 251, 252, 263, 266, 488, 1028, 1029— glen, 268, 488-.vale, 268 Almond castle and church, viii. Stirling, 205,211 Almondbank, village of, x. Perth, 151, 154 Almondell house, ii. Linlithgow, 87 Almshouse of Oxnam, iii. Roxburgh, 266 AlncM, parish of, xiv. Ross, 332 — bum, 264, 274, 334— village, 346 Alsh loch, xiv. Ross, 107, 1H4 Altachovlachan bum, xiii. Banff, 126 — battle, 130 Altanfeam loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 Altan-na-cat burn, xv. Caithness, 69 Altan nan cealgach bum, xiv. Ross, 403 Altam bum, xiii. Banff, 356, 359 Altcolle ravine, xv. Sutherland, 194 Altdouran glen, iv. Wigton, 123 Altens harbour, xi. Kincardine, 196 — property, 205 Alterwell property, xv. Caithness, 116 Alt Gary point, viii. Dunbarton, 96^ 232 Altgraad water, xiv. Rosa, 314 Altimarlach bum, xv. Caithness, 123, 131 Altimarlach, battle of, xv. Sutherland, 1 99 Altin gl^n, xiv. Invemess, 286 Altirlie point, xiv. Invemess, 377 Altivaig fisheries, xiv. Invemess, 253 — rocks at, 247— bay antl isle, 240 Altmore hill, xiii. Banff, 214 Altnabrog, plantations at, xiv. Ross, 124 Altnagawn, battle at,xv. Sutherland, 143 Altnalait bum, xiv. Ross, 313 Altnarie bum, xiii. Nairn, 27 Alton house, vi. lAnarfc, 733 Altonbum hill, v. Ayr, 746 Alton of Loudoun, village o^ t. Avr, 851 Aitpatrick bum, vii. Renfrew, 147' Altrive lake, iil Selkirk, 47 Altruadh water, xiii Elgin, 138 Alt Torquil bum, xr. Sutherland, 148 Altyre bum, xiii. Elgin, 241— bouae and woods, 188, 239, 244 Alum well, the, ix. Fife, 128 Alva, parish of, viii Stirling, 175— bam, 177, Clackmannan, 77 — ^houae, Stir- ling, 181, 182— mines, 178 — Tillage, 182 Alvah, parish of, xiii. Banff, 144 — hill, 3, . 144— bridge, 4, 146— xii Aberdeen, 282 Alves, parish of^ xiii. Elgin, 101 Alvie, parish of, xiv. Inveraees, 81 loch, ib. S3 Alwhannie Nowes, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, Alyth, parish of, x. Perth, 1 1 1 — forast, 1111, 1116— bum and hiU, 1111— Til- lage, 1114, 1121, 1125 Amat cottage, xiv. Ross, 423 Amaton bum, xv. Caithness, 114 Amhain mhor water, vii Aigyle, 49 — xir. Inverness, 325 Amhige loch, x. Perth, 540 Amilo dorch valley, xiv. Invemess, 119 Amisfield house, &c. iv. Dumfries, 43, 44 Amisfield house, &c ii Haddington, 1, 5 Anchinreoeh house, viii. Stirling, 244 Ancmm, parish of, iii. Roxbuigh, 241 village, 242, 248— house, 242, 243, 244 —moor, 119,242 Ander hill, xv. Shetland, 7 Andersonian Universitv, the, iv. Lanark. 179 Andet, chapel at, xii. Aberdeen, 972 Andhu loch, xiv. Invemess, 89 Andunty loch, xiv. Invemess, 380 Aney c|uarry, x. Perth, 352 Angel's hill, vii. Argjle, 337 Angry bum, the, xiii. Elgin, 196 Ankerxille fair, xiv. Ross, 26 Ann bum, v. Ayr, 179 Annan, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 51 6 — cas- tle, 524, 525- hill, 517— town, 522, 533— river, 29, 102, 124, 125, 137, 151, 172, 176, 190, 204, 205, 245, 246, 289. 290, 371, 372, 378, 451, 452, 516— iii Peebles, 59 Annan Waterfoot, village ot iv. DumfVies. 51 H, 529 Annandale, iv. Dumfries, 205, 567 Annat point, ix. Fife, 827 Annat, davoch of, xiv. Invemess, 484 Annat water, x. Perth, 1 226 Annat 's stone, xiv. Inverness, 305 Annaty bum, x. Perth, 1041 Annishmd collier)-, m Renfrew, 8 GEKEBAL IKDEX. VI I Annock water, v. Ayr, 290, 523, 728 — lodge, 525 Aiwtruther burn,^ix. Fife, 613, G16— house, 984 Aiutruthcr Easter, parish o^ ix. Fife, 295— town, 296 Anrtruther Wester, pandi of, ix. Fife, 611— town, 620,623, 629 Antermony house, viii. Stirling, 244 Antoninus' wall, ii. Linlithgow, 20, 60, 65, 127 Anton's hill, ii. Berwick, 54 Anwoth, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 373 Aonoch sassan hill, xiv. Inverness, 484 Aora water, viL Ai^gyle, 1, 6, 7 App water, v. Ayr, 416 Appin, district of, vii. Aigvle, 225 — house, 228— village, 251 Appin hill, remains on, iv. Dumfries, 475 Appin colliery, ix. Fife, 834 Appin, strath of, x. Perth, 753 Applecross, parish *and district of, xiv. Ross, 99— water, 100— house, 101 Appleg^h and Sibbaldbie, united pa- nshes of, iv. Dumfries, 170 Applegarth moat, iv. Dumfries, 183 Appletreehall, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 81 Apprentice's pillar, Roslin, i. Edinburgh, 347 Apwanly, property of, xiii. Banff, 205 Aquhamey, &ctorpr, xil Aberdeen, 972 Aquhhie house, xi. Kincardine, 219 Aran cairn, v. Bute, 54 Aray glen and water, vii. Argyle, 1, 2, 6, 7 Arbeadie, property of, xi. Kincardine, 326— village, 355 Arbigland house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 285 238 Arbikie^ tumulus at, xi< For&r, 326 Arbirlot, parish of, xi. Forikr, 332 Arboll, improvements at, xiv. Ross, 464 Arbory hill, camp on, vi. Lanark, 817 Arbroath, parish and town of, xi. Forfiur, 74, 489— Abbey, 77 Arbroath and Forfiur railway, xi Forfar, 697 Arbuthnott, parish o^ xi. Kincardine, 153 —house, 154, 161 Arc cairn, the, xiv. Inverness, 15 Arches croft, remains at, vi. Lanark, 321 Archerbreck water, iv. Dumfries, 485 — collieries, 486 Areherfield house, ii. Haddington, 212 Archiestown, village, &c. o^ xiii. Elgin, 62, 67, 77 Ard, loch, X. Perth, 1151 Ardai^e, fort of, x. Perth, 7 1 7 Ardblair loch, x. Perth, 903 Archadiiill head, xiv. Ross, 74 Ardchattan, parish of, vii. Argyle, 468 — priory, 495 Aidclach, parish of, xiii. Nairn, 26 Ardcronie, rock at, xiv. Ross, 453 Ardeer, remains found at, v. Ayr, 428— quarry, 430, 437 Ardelistcr isles, viL Argyle, 661 Arden limeworks, vii. Renfrew, 35, 36 Ardenconnel house, viii Dunbarton, 67, 75 Ardeonaig, mission and chapel of, x. Perth, 1092 Ardersier, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 462 — point, 471 — ferry, xiv. Ross, 350 Ardgartan house, vii Aigyle, 712 Ardgay, village of, xiv. Ross, 432 Ardgour ferry, &c. xiv. Inverness, 1 IB- plantations, 120 — house, 122 Ardgowan house, vii Renfrew, 433, 526, — tower, 526 Ardincaple castle, &c. vii Argyle, 474 — viii. Dunbarton, 67, 75 Ardinning loch, viii. Stirling, 73 Ardintoul bay, xiv. Ross, 186 Ardivachar head, xiv. Inverness, 183 Ardkinglass castle, vii. Aigyle, 705-^ house, 712 Ardlair, cairn at, xi Kincardine, 237 Ardle water, x. Perth, 240, 638, 639,786, 904,1178,1180 Ardleish, fiurm of^ viii. Dunbarton, 94 Ardluaaa house, vii Argyle, 540 Ardmaddy bay, vii Argyle, 73— castle, 74 Ardmamoch hoiise, vii Argyle, 366 Ard Meadhonach hill, xiv. Ross, 39 Ardmeanach, district of, xiv. Ross, 383— hills, 348 Ardmellie house, xiii Banff, 383 — quarry, 384 Ardmichael head, xiv. Inverness, 183 Ardmiddle hill, xii Aberdeen, 982, 993, Ardmile head, xiv. Inverness, 183 ArdmiUan, copper ore at, v. Ayr, 395 Ardminish bay and house, vii Argyle, 396 Ardmore bay, vii Argyle, 661 Ardmore head, viii. Dunbarton, 67, 84-i- house, 87 Ardmore, battle at, xiv. Inverness, 329 Ardmore harbour, xiv. Ross, 453, 459 Ardmucknish bay, vii. Argyle, 474 Ardnacallich head and bay, vii. Argyle,. 347 Ardnacross bay, vii Argyle, 455 Ardnafuaran church, vii Aigyle, 147 — viUage, 149 Ardnamurchan, parish of, vii Argyle, 117* —head, 129, 130 Ardnave point, vii Argyle, 644 Ardneill hiU, v. Ayr, 244, 257— bank, 244, 246— bay, 245 Ardo, plantations at, xi Kincardine, 1 8 h —remains at, 183 Ardoch loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 370 Ardoch house, viii. Dunbarton, 87 Ardoch, quoad §€tcra parish of, x. Perth,. 328, 331— camp, 321— plantations, &c. 318— water, 1039,1226 Ardonald lime works, xii Aberdeen, 1617' —xiii. Banff, 96, 127 Ardoyne hill, xii. Aberdeen, 635 Ardpatrick head, vii Argyle, 409 VI II QEKERAL INDEX. Arilriusaig harbour and village, vii Ai^ gyle, 270, 274 Ardroscadale chapel, v. Bute, 103 Ardross plantations, xiv. Roas, 266 — im- provements at, 274 Ardrossan, paridi of, v. Ayr, 191— bay, 192— town, 193, 199, 201— formers' society, 233— canal, 242 — castle, 197 —railway, 203— vil Renfirew, 562 Ardrossan, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 462 Ardscalpie bay, v. Bute, 96 Ardshicl cave and hill, vii. Argyle, 227 Ardstinchar castle, v. Ayr, 418 Ardtealla bay, vii. Argyle, 661 Ardtoe bay, vii. Argyle, 156 Ardtomish castle, vii. Argyle, 184 — bay, 190— fells, 166— quarries, 170 Arduthie, spring at, xi Kincardine, 245 —village, 262 Ardvare loch, xv. Sutherland, 105 — hai^ hour, 115 Ardveirge, tradition regarding, xiv. Inver- ness, 423— house, 427 Ardvorlich bay, viiL Dunbarton, 95 Ardvorlich house, x. Perth, 584 Ardvrack castle, xv. Sutherland, 109, 111 Ardvrecknish house, vii Argyle, 85 Ardwall house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 382 Ardwell house, iv. Wigton, 164 Areeming church, iv. Kirkcudbright, 259 Ar Fhinn cairn, v. Bute, 54 Argrennan house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 89 Arg>'le house, viii. Stirling, 423 Argyle stone, Nii. Renfrew, 18 Argyle's battery, i. Edinburgh, 652 Argyleshire, observations on, vii. Argyle, 707 Arichonan hill, vii. Aigyle, 632 Aricliny loch, xv. Sutherland, 1 37 An Dhoil chaim, xiv. Ross, 157 Arinangour, village of, vii. Arg}'le, 217,218 Arisaig, district of, vii. Argyle, 1 18, 120 —head, 130— house, 148 Arity bum, xi. Fife, 234 Arkaig loch, xiv. Inverness, 118 Arkendeith tower, ruins of, xiv. Ross, 391 Arkcy brae, tumuli at, xii. Aberdeen, 147 Arkland hill, iv. Dumfries, 502 Arkle hill, xv. Sutherland, 119 Arkleston, rock at, vii. Renfrew, 155 Armadale caatlti, &c. xiv. Inverness, 317, 318, 320 Armadale, village of, ii. Linlithgow, 162 Armidale valley, xv. Sutherland, 67 — bay, 68 Armin hill, xv. Sutherland, 214 Amal water, xiv. Ross, 143 A mate bum, x. Perth 689 Arnbarrow hill, xi. Kincardine, 69 Arnbeg, conventicle at, viii. Stirling, 267 Ambrae house, ruins of, xiii. Stirling, 1 52 Arachluy chapel, x. Perth, 1105 Amcroach, chapel at, ix. Fife, 918 Amdilly house, &c. xiii Banff, 355, 362, 366 Arncybog colliery, viii. Dunbarton, 176 Arn6nlay castle, viii Stirling, 268 Arngaak, parish o£^ x. Perth, 882 Amhall house, &c. xi Kincardine, 26, 122 Amifoul village, xi. Forfar, 347 Amisdale village, xiv. Inverness, 139, 140 Amish point and lighthouse, xiv. Ross, 126 Amiston house, i. Edinburgh, 52, 157^ 173 Amizort chapel, xiv. Invemese, 323 — loch, 354 Ammore, fort at, viii Stirling, 268 Araprior, school at, viii. StirSng, 271 Amtully, improvements at, x. Perth, 11 34 —village, H35 Aroe bay and castle, vii Aigyle, 357, 661 Arradoul, coins found at, xiii. Banff, 255 — chapel, 265 Arran isle, v. Bute, 1, 40 — castle, 4 AiTSiVB, mill, xi. ForfiA-, 134 Arrdanes, battle of, xiii Ban£^ 224 Arrin, battle at, v. Bute, 1 Arrochar, parish o^ viii Dunbarton, 94 —inn, 98, 101 Arrol, see Errol ArstaVi chapel, ruins of, xv. Orkney, 141 Artendol church, xiii Banff, 355 Arthur house, caum at, xi Kincardine. 38 ArthurJie, fell at, vii Renfrew, 317— ^fec- tory, 336— house, 329— printfield, 329, 335— village, 330 Arthur 1b seat hill, i Edinburgh, 381, 615, 616,619 Arthur's Oon, viii Stirling, 357 Artney glen, x. Perth, 578 Arundel house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 Ary Leive quarrj-, xv. Caithness, 15 Ascaig,loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 Ascog loch, V. Bute, 82, 84, 99— bay, 83 — ^house, 88 Ascoile, valley of, xv. Sutherland, 1 49 Ashare, district of, xv. Sutherland, 119 Ashbura house, vu. Renfrew, 526 Ashdale glen, v. Bute, 5 — ^water, 7 Ashdow ravine, vm. Stirling, 62 Ashcnyard loch, v. Ayr, 812 Ashgrove loch, v. Ayr, 436, 812— house, 815, 826 Ashhill, camp at, vi. Lanark, 57 Ashiestiel house, iii. Selkirk, 45 Ashig chapel, xiv. Inverness, 305 Ashintully house, x. Perth, 787 Ashkirk, parish of, iii. Roxburgh, 268 — loch, 269 Ashley, property of, i. Edinbui^h, 83 Asliton house, vii. Renfrew, 526 Asleisk ciwtle, xiii. Elgin, 103 Asta loch, XV. Shetland, 68 Asscl water, v. Ayr, 395 Assembly Hall, Edinburgh, i Edinbuigh, 659 Assint, parish o^ xv. Sutherland, 105— QBHKBAL UTOBZ. Kjle, lOd— locb, 107— quarries, xiv. Rom, 76 Anieed burn, lii. Abeideen, 763 Asylum for tho blind, Kdiabu^, L Edin- burgh. 737 Atheiilaaefi:ril, parish of. ii. Haddington, 41— vilUiRB, Ji—baUlr.-, 49 Athenvum at Slitting, the, viii. Stirling, 426 Alhul for. -and Weem n Kills, 1. Perth, 455 Aucherachen distillny, ziii. Bonlf, 13S Aucbeniach house, lii. AbetdMn, 547 Auchinnmea, property of. viL lienft«ir, , 363 AiJthiiU)latf vaiaw,.;d. Kincardine, 35,69, 89,90. 102, 103 Auchincar, obeliik tt, r. But«, 63 'LUchiEiciwscflscadi;, iv. Dumfiies, 125-^ auUe, 127 Auchinclooch, remains at, riii. Stirlinir l48-bum, 140 Auch ...Ayr.T Auchattie, propertj oT, li. Kincardine, 324 Auchbreck, chapel at, uii. Banff, 140 AucheliSbn, brm oC, t. Bnl«, 50 Auchenairn, cn'iiprly of, vi. Ijmark, 404 luchiinltnnan, pTOpertj of, ri Anchenbouinfiica,fi5 Auchencruive houso. v. Ayr, 2 — propert; of. G51— colliery, 660 Auchcncniive house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 269 AuchcndoUy, spring at, iv. Kirkcudbright, 192 Auchcndoirie, fort at, viii. Uunbarton, 180 Auehendraoe boiue, r. Ayr, 33, 275 — tJHgedy, 362_caitle, 363 Au chen^ith ,inipTovementa&t,v.Ayr,803 Anchengeich mill, vi. Lanark, 4D1 — plan- tations, 404 > of, xii. Abei- 3115 Auchengool house,!". Kirkcudbright, 36 1> Aucht-nharvie castle, v. Avr, 73*^pro- perty,441 Auchenheath eotliery, ti. Lanark, S2 Auchcnhcglish liuriol graund, viJL Dun- baiton, 222 Auehunloi'h villii«c, vi. Lanark, 408 Auchonlodmont colliery, vii. Renfrew, 168 Auchenreoch house, xL Forftr, 666 Auchenrue, remaiae at, i>. Wigton, 142 Auchensaugh hill. vi. Lanark, 479, 4SS Auchenskeigh quarry, v. Ayr, 214 Auchentiber limeworks, vi. Lanark, 316 AuchanliUilina spout, viii. Stirling, 118, 307 Aucbentorlie hills, viii. Dunbarton, 16, 17 — ciulle,a2 Auchenvane, reniaini at, it. Wigton, 233 Auehindotr church, n uchindory, remains at, xl For&r, 679 uchindown castle, xiiL BanS 105 iK-hiruluich. fiirni of.xv, Smhcrhmd, 19 Auchineck, luipnivi^njciits at, viii. Stir- ling, 110 Auchingmy house, vi. I«nark, 244 Auchingree, remains M, v. Ayr, 220— fiictory, 233 luchinhuirig properly, xiii. Et^ 120— Auchtnheath quarr.v. vi. Lanark, 18 Auchinhew water, y. Bute, 42 Aocbinhove, property of, ni. Aberdeen, 1087 Auchinlaich casUe, x. Perth, 355 Auchinleck, parish of, v. Ayr, 322 — house, 324, 3-25, 745- castle and old place, 325— village, .126. 330— .juartias 338 Auchinleck well, ri, Lanark, 399 Auchiuloch property, vi. Lanark, 400 Auchinmede, r<.-miuns at, r. Ayr, 220 Auchinmullj ^illBge, viii. Stirling, 169 Auchinraith hiiu«-, vi. Lanark, 319 Auchinreath proj-crty, liii. Klgin, 120 Auchinriboch limtniprks. viii. Slirling. 143 luchinriroch property, \[ii. ^itirLng, J6i iuchinstenie hou.*!.', v[ii. ;>[irling, 156 Auchintibber, limestone at, nil Dunbar- property, 1087 Auchluniea house, xL Kincardine, 191 Auchlunkart house, xiii Banff, 365 — property, 356 Auchlyne house, x. Perth, 1086 Auchmacoy property, xii. Aberdeen, 806, 807— tile- work, 819 Auehmadies property, xiii. Banff, 364 Auchmannoch house, v. Ayr, 132 Auchmcdden, arch at, xiL Aberdeen, 259 —dens, 262— hills, 717 Auchmcre, cUstrict of, x. Perth, 702 Auchmillan, village of, v. Ayr, 162, 164 Auchmithie caves, xL Por&r, 491— vil- lage, 498, 513, 515 Auchmoor bridge, ix. Kinross, 70 Auchmorc house, x. Perth, 710, 1086 Auchmore, cairn at, xiii. Banff, 186 Auchmuty paper mills, ix. Fife, 672 Auchnacree house, xL ForfEU*, 313 Auchnagaim house, &c xiv. Inverness, 459, 460 Auchnahow strath, xv. Sutherland, 1 34 Auchnamara water, vii. Aigyle, 633 Auchness bum, xiii. Elgin, 196 Auchnuallan, remains at, xiv. Inverness, 470 Auchonreveck tower, iv. Dumfries, 490 Auchrannie slugs, xi. Forfiir, 423, 637 Auchrhea house, xiii. Nairn, 2 Auchry house, xii. Aberdeen, 764 Auchter water, vi. Lanark, 608 Aucbteran, remains at» xiv. Inverness, 56 Auchterarder, parish of, x. Perth, 285^ house, 289 — town, 287 — agricultural association, 292 Auchterderran, parish of, ix. Fife, 165 Auchterflow bc^, xiv. Ross, 388 Auchtergaven, parish of, x. Perth, 423 Auchterhouse, parish of, xi. Forfer, 648 — bum, 649 — house, 650 — quarries, 540 Auchterless, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 285 Auchtermaimie house, ix. Fife, 379 Auchtermuchtv, parish of, ix. Fife, 781 —town, ib, 783 Auchtertool, parish of, ix. Fife, 249— vil- lage, 257 Auchtertyre, village of, xi. Forfar, 559 Auchter-uther-struther, ruins of, ix- Fife, 524 Auchtrematane bum, iv. Wigton, 135 Augmund's How, xv. Orkney, 136 Augustus, Fort, xiv. Inverness, 57, 62 Auld bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 266 Auld water of Clouden, iv. Dumfries, 338 Auldbar castle, xi. Forfar, 627— stone at, 6.32 Auldbar, remains at, vii. Renfrew, 190 Auldcathie, annexed parish of, iL Linlith- gow, 90 Auldearn, parish of, xiii. Nairn, 6— bum, 7— village, 13, 15— battle, 9 — zir. Ross, 192 Aulderg bum, xiiL Elgin, 196 Anldgrande bum, xiv. Roas, 322, 324 Auld Grey caims, the, iv. Wigton, 86 Auldbame bay, ii< Haddingten, 31 9-^ house, 31 Auldhill, remains on, v. Ayt, 257 Auldhouse bum, vii. Renfrew, 34 — bkach- field, 40 Auld kilns of Kirkmaiden, iv. Wigton, 207 Auld kirk, a Dniidical circle, xii. Aber- deen 499 Auld kirk of North Berwick, u. Had- dington, 328 Auld kirk of Tough, xii. Aberdeen, 618 Auld Machan quarry, vi. Lanark, 726 Auldmiiir limeworks, v. Ayr, 232 Auldna colliery, v. Ayr, 614 Auldnachoira biim, xiii. Elgin, 196 Auldnacuish bum, xiii Elgin, 196 Auld town of CaraoBsie, xiii. Banff, 84 Auld town of Loudoun, v. Ayr, 851 Auld Wick tower, ruins o^ zv< Caitiinea, 118,139 Auld wives" lifts, stones called, viiL Stir- ling, 171 Aul' man o* Wick, the, xv. Caithnen, 118 Aulmore hill, xiii. Banff, 214 Aultanfhiler bum, xiv. Inveraeas, 377 Aultdinny bum, xii. Aberdeen, 1049 Ault Oheallaidh bum, xiii. Elgin, 62 Aultgraad water and falls, xiv. Rosa, 314 Aultguish bum, xiv. Invemess, 39 Aultkollie ravine, xv. Sutherland, 192 Aultnacaorach bum, xiv. Ross, 315 Aultnaharve inn, xv. Sutherland, 68 Aultrey bum, xii. Aberdeen, 1049 Aultsigh bum, xiv. Invemess, 38 — battle, 46 Aumubie, chapel at, x. Perth, 260 Auquhirie, district of, xi. Kincardine, 214 — house, 219 Ausdale clif&, xv. Caithness, 87 Auskerry isle, xv. Orkney, 1 57 Auston park, vi. Lanark, 66 Aven, see Avon Aven Iligh water, xv. Sutherland, 134 Avich water and loch, vii. Aigyle, ^r^ Aviemore, remains at, xiii. Elgin, 1 32 Avoch, parish of, xiv. Ross, 381 — village, 15, 381, 382— bum, 383, 387— house, 384, 390— castle, 390— oyster bed, In- vemess, 405 Avochy castle, xii. Aberdeen, 1033 Avon river, xiii Banff, 123, 124, 125, 297 —loch, 297 Avon river, v. Ayr, 179 — vi. Lanark, 250, 254, 295, 301, 302,470, 719, 721, 944 Avon water, ii. Linlithgow, 35, 36, 121, 170— viii. Stirling, 191, 205, 206, 275 Avondale, parish of, vi. Lanark, 301 Avondow water, viii. Stirling, 396 Avonholm, remains at, vi. Lanark, 295 — house, 296 GENERAL INDEX. XI Avon LuBsa water, vii. Argyle, 536 Avonton house, ii. Linlithgow, 174 Awe water, vii. Argyle, 89, 477 — loch, 85, 372 Ayr, parish and town of, v. Ayr, 1 — see also Newton and St Quivox— water, 6, 11, 51, 118, 119, 126, 130, 149, 159, 323, 637, 649, 743 Ayrshire, observations on, v. Ayr, 856 — agricultural society, 48, 64 Ay ton, parish of, ii. Berwick, 1 30 — castle and property, 135 — house, &c. 131, 132— village, 131, 139, 142 Ba hill, xii. Aberdeen, 302 Ba loch and water, vii. Argyle, 281 Balsum, see Bannockbiun Baad^s house, i. Edinburgh, 306 Baads of Cullen, battle of, xiiL Banff, 318 Baberton house, i. Edinburgh, 546 Babylon, Owenite institution o^ vi. La- nark, 780, 783 Bach isle, vii. Argyle, 340 Bachnagaim fells, xi. Forfar, 437 Backaskail bay, xv. Orkney, 87 Backboath chapel, xi. Forfar, 357 Back bum, ix. Fife, 823 Back burn of Romach, xiii. Elgin, 240 Backies, remains at, xv. Sutherland, 34 Backless, market at, xv. Caithness, 59 Backmuir of Oilston, village of, ix. Fife, 442 Back Thomley muir, vii. Renfrew, 144 Backwood water, i. Edinbuigh, 362 Badan loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 Badbea, cliffii at, xv. Caithness, 87 Badcall loch, xv. Sutherland, 120 — church, 132 Badds clayfield, vi. Lanark, 402 Badenoch, district of, xiii. Elgin, 124— i> xiv. Inverness, 66,, 82 Badenagill, the, iii. Peebles, 162 Badenyon house, xii. Aberdeen, 437 Badlieu biun, &c. iii. Peebles, 59, 62 Badnabay, remains at, xv. Sutherland, 127 Bagbie woods, vi Lanark, 81l«-houae, 817 Baggage knowe, the, viii. Stirling, 148 Baidland hill, v. Ayr, 211— coal at, 213 Baikic moss, xi. Forfar, 673— castle, 680 —house, 681 Bailechelish hills, vii. Argyle, 225 Bailephuill mission, xiv. Ross, 428 Bailford obelisk, iv. Dumfries, 502 Bailiestone, remains at, vi. Lanark, 651— village, 652 Bailliefearie, the, xiv. Inverness, 13 Bailwanich, ruins at, xiv. Inverness, 188 Bainac, Ben, xiii. Banff, 298 Bainsford sawmills, viii. Stirling, 19 — vil- lage, 21,23 Baimsdale castle, xi. Forfar, 603 Balachulish ferry, xiv. Inverness, 118 — quarry, 123 Balado plantations, ix. Kinross, 16 Balagan, property and house, iv. Dum- flies, 326 Balas house, ix. Fife, 8 Balbairdie loch, ii. Linlithgow, 150 — lime- works, 154 — house, 156 Balbec tower, ix. Fife, 414 Balbeggie village, x. Perth, 933 Balbegno house, xi. Kincardine, 26 — castle, 116 Balbeuchy property, xi. Forfar, 654 Balbinnie house, xi. Forfar, 627 Balbimie collieries, ix. Fife, 659 — house, 668— mills, 673 Balbithan, tree at, xii. Aberdeen, 743 Balblair distillery, xiv. Ross, 452 Balbrogie village, x. Perth, 1147 Balbunnock village, x. Perth, 410, 418 Balcaithly, remains at, ix. Fife, 366 Balcarras house, ix. Fife, 326 — collieries, 321, 322— Craig, 319, 321— den, 321, 324 Balcarry house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 356, 365— port, 361 Balcastle, ruins at, viii. Stirling, 152, 274 —village, 278— collieries, 144, 145 Balchristie quarry, ii. Berwick, 202 Balchr}'8tie, church at, ix. Fife, 125 Balchumie, castle, x. Perth, 222 Balcomie castle, ruins of, ix. Fife, 947 Balcony property, xiv. Ross, 320, 325 Balcraig castle, xi. Forfar, 559 Balcruivie pastle, ix. Fife, 438 Baldardie, rocks at, xi. For&r, 598 Baldermonock's ward, the, vi. Lanark, 406 Baldemock, parish of, viii Stirling, 169 Baldemock alum works, vi. Lanark, 166 Baldoon castle, &c. iv. Wigton, 12, 16 Baldowrie, remains at, xi. Forfer, 643— house, 644 Baldovie property, xL Forfiu*, 21 — ^hill, 611,616 Baldutho craig, ix. Fife, 914 — limestone at, 916 Baldred'a well, ii. Haddington, 333 Baldridge burn, xi. Fife, 829— colliery, 831 Baledgamo bum, x. Perth, 827— hill, 826 —village, 832, 836 Balerao, chapel at, i. Edinbuigh, 555 — sandstone at, 544 Balevil house, xiv. Ross, 372 Balfour or Bal Orr castle, ix. Fife, 665 Balfour castle, xi. Forfar, 615— hill, 611 Balfrishel village, xiv. Inverness, 57 Balfron, parish of, viii. Stirling, 288 — village, 289, 295, 297— mills, 293 Balgaies loch, xL Forfar, 142 Balgair market, viii. Stirling, 272 — pro- perty, 296 Balgarrock house, xi. Forfer, 629 Balgartno, remains at, xi. For&r, 581 Balgarvie house, ix. Fife, 41 Balgavies loch, xi. Forfar, 240, 597, 627 —house, 627, 628 4 xu aEKERJLL INDEX* Balgay hill, zi. For&r, 5 —remains at, 17 — property, 568 Balgie water, xiv. Roes, 1 00 Balglas corrie, viiL Stirling, 61 Balgonar house, ix. Fife, 799 Bal^ne, rocks at, ii Haddington, 317 — house, 333— quarry, 338 Balgonie castle, ix. Fife, 666— collieries, 661— nulls, &c. 674,676 Balgove of Hoasie, the, xi. Forfiff, 251 Balgown bay, iv. Wigton, 201 Balgownie house, xil Aberdeen, 1076 Balgray, coal at, t. Ayr, 573 Balgray, plantations at, iv. Dumfiies, 74, 87 Balgray, remains at, vi Lanark, 671 Balgr^gan limeworks, v. Ayr, 504 Balgreggan house, iv. Wigton, 164 Balhall property, xi. For&r, 519 Balhaiie house, x. Perth, 1119 Balhepbum, improvements at, x. Perth, 365 Balhousie, remains at, ix. Fife, 439 Balhousie, Old, village o^x. Perth, 142 Baligil bum, xv. Suuerland, 68 Balimacaan house, xiii. Banff, 322 Balinshoe house, xi. ForfEU*, 178 Balintore, village of, xiv. Ross, 361 Balintraw harbour, xiv. Ross, 309 Ballagan spout, viii. Stirling, 73, 74 Ballairdie castle, x. Perth, 221 Ballandarg house, xi. For&r, 178 — bum, 338 Ballantrae, parish of, v. Ayr, 415 — town, 415, 416 Ballantyne house, xi. Forfar, 561 Ballat bog, viii. Stirling, 99 Ballater house, xii. Aberdeen, 778 — vil- lage, 779, 781 Balleave mill, ix. Kinross, 14 Ballenbreich castle, ix. Fife, 599, 601 Ballenbreich chapel, viii. Stirling, 210 BallencriefT house, ii. Haddington, 252 — hospital, 253 Ballendean hill, x. Perth, 826 — house, 833— viUage, 836 Ballendrick house, x. Perth, 807 Ballengeich road, viii. Stirling, 403, 417 Ballewan mineral spring, viii. Stirling, 73 Balliasta kirk, xv. Shetland, 40 — quarry, 45 Ballikinrain burn, &c viii. Stirling, 62 — house, &c. 63, 65, 289 Ballimore house, viL Argyle, 105, 365 BallincriefT limeworks, ii. Linlithgow, 153 Ballindalloch house, xiii. Banff, 129, 133 ^-castle, 134 — limeworks, 127 Ballindalloch house, viiL Stirling, 292— factories, 293, — vi. Lanark, 148 Ballingr}', parish of, ix. Fife, 446 Ballintomb bum, xiii. Elgin, 6'?, 66 — re- mains at, 68 Ballo hill, X. Perth, 406 lialloch hills, xiii. Banff, 214 Balloch bog, viii. Dunbarton, 142— castle, 223 Balloch, rocks at, xL Forfiur, 160— moa, 163 Balloch castle, x. Perth, 468^1och, 814 Balloch hiUs, xv. Sutherhmd, 135 Ballochleam loch, viii. Stirling, 265 — battle, 52 Ballochmorie house, v. Ayr, 529 Ballochmyle, improvements at, ▼. Ayr, 163 Ballochneill, v. Ayr, 781 Ballochnie collieries, vi. Lanark, 243 — railway, 246, 664 Ballogie house, xil Aberdeen, 793 Ballomill bum, ix. Fife, 559 Ballownie, remains at, xi Forfiff, 665 Ballumbie castle and house, xL For&r, 593 Ballykellet house, &c. v. Bute, 73, 75 Ballyshear house, vii Argyle, 430 Balmacaan house, xiv. Inverness, 43 Balmachree farm, xiv. Invemeas, 378— moathill, 393 Balmaclellan, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 98— village, 104 Balmadies house, &c. xi. Forfiu*, 607, 608 Balmaduthy, see Belmaduthy Balmae house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 25 Balmaghie, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 178— house, 183 Balmaha pass, viii. Dunbarton, 159 Balmaha chemical works, viii Stirling, 96 Balmakelly bum, xi Kincardine, 299, 304 Balmakewan quarry, xi. Kincardine, 299 —house, 302 Balmalcolm village, ix. Fife, 106, 109 Balmaleedie bum, xi. Kincardine, 299 Balmangan tower, iv. Kirkcudbright,- 54 Balmanno house, xi. Kincardine, 299 — quarry, 302 Balmanno castle, x. Perth, 864 Balmaodui church, vii Argyle, 498 Balmartin, obelisk at, xiv. Invemess, 169 Balmashanar hill, xi. Forfar, 692 Balmblair cairns, x. Perth, 172 Balmerino, parish of, ix. Fife, 577 — vil- lage, 578— abbey, ib. 583 Balmoran house, xii Aberdeen, 650 Balmore haughs, viii. Stirhng, 170 Balmossie chapel, xi Forfar, 541 Balmullo village, ix. Fife, 224,227 Balmuto house, ix. Fife, 801 Balnaboth house, &c. xi. Forfiir, 172, 178 Balnabriech property, xi Forfar, 519, 528 Balnabniach village, xiv. Ross, 26 Balnacraig house, &c. xii. Aberdeen, 1052, 1056, 1087 Balnacula, remains at, v. Bute, 54 Balnagard village, x. Perth, 1010 Balnagask property, xi. Kincardine, 205 Ralnagown, remains at, xiv. Inverness, 471 Balnagown water, xiv. Ross, 264, 302 — OBNESAL IHDEZ. carile, 305— fbr«t, 403, 404— hotue, 4l2-~prDperty, 445 Bklnakettle, minenb mt, iL Kiacardine, 36, 113 Salierdeen, 736 — re- mains on, 737, 949 Bar Michael wood, vi. Lanark, 278 Barmore bouse, vii. Argyle, 262— fort at, 639 Bamair, cairns at, iv. Wigton, 178 Bambarroch, spring at, iv. Wigton, 11— house, 16 Bambougle castle, ii. Linlithgow, 95, 96 Bamcluith gardens, vi Lanark, 255, 271 -burn, 255 Barnes, tumuli at, viii. Dunbarton, 22 Bamess, coins found at, iv. Wigton, 15 Bamgreen village, xi. Forfar, 89 Bamhill house, x. Perth, 938 Barnhill village, xi. Forfar, 549 Bamhill village, vi. Lanark, 321 Bamhiirs bed, iii. Roxburgh, 355 Barnhowrie sandbank, iv. Kirkcudbright, 217 Barniken, origin of name of, ii. Berwick, 249 Barnkirk hill, iv. Dumfries, 517 Bamkirk moss, iv. Wigton, 178 Bams house, ix. Kinross, 40 Bams house, Crail, mins of, ix. Fife^ 946 Barns tower, iii. Peebles, 116 Barns of Ayr, the, v. Ayr, 21, 41 Bamsdalc castle, xi. Forfar, 603 Bamsford bridge, vii. Renfrew, 27 Bamshean loch, v. Ayr, 493 Bamslce house, ix. Fife, 665 Barnsmuir house, ix. Fife, 971 Bam tal loch castle, iv. Dumfries, 420 Barn ton house, i. Edinburgh, 595 Barn Weill, suppressed parish of, v. Avr, 764— hill, 21, 765— house, 765 Ramyards village, ix. Fife, 328 Barochan house, &.c. vii. Renfrew, 47, 48, 60 Barone hill, v. Bute, 96 Baron's cleugh, vi. lianark, 255 Barony, sec Glasgow Barplacaig, fort of^ xiv. Inverness, 266 Barr glen, vii Argyle, 377 Barr, parish of, v. Ayr, 407 — callage, 409 Barr hill, iv. Dumfries, 204, 207 Barr hill, remains at, viii. Dunbarton, 141, 188 Barr hill, vii. Renfrew, 355 — colliery, &c. 359— loch, 75— castle, 76, 91— house, 76 — property, 92 Barra hill, xii. Aberdeen, 621, 622 Barra quarry, ii. Haddington, 155 Barra head, xiv. Inverness, 159, 199 Barrachine village, vi. Lanark, 652 Barras house, &.c. xi. Kincardine, 223, 310 Barrasgate, camp at, iv. Dumfries, 266 Barraston, minerals at, viii. Stirling, 170 Banay, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 198— island, 199— house, 208 Barrel of butter isle, xv. Orkney, 16 Barrhead village, vii. Renfrew, 330, 339 Barrie, parish of,.xi. Forfer, 659 Barrisdale house, xiv. Inverness, 1 35 Barrochan, see Barochan Barrock hill, caim on, xv. Caithness, 39 Barrogill castle, xv. Caithness, 26 Barrowfield, battle at, vii. Renfrew, 504 Barrschol, district of, xv. Sutherland, 55 Barry hill, xL Forfar, 297, 425 Barry hill, remains on, x. Perth, 111 I, 1117 Barschastaillain fort, vii. Argyle, 96 Barshaw house, vii. Renfrew, 198 Barshell, camp on, iv. Dumfries, 44 Barskimming house, &c. v. Avr, 159, 165, 640, 642 Bartaraville village, xiv. Ross, 209 Barthol chapeU Ac. xii. Aberdeen, 675 Bartle hill, ii. Berwick, 51 Barvas, pariah of, xiv. Ross, 141 — Ijay, 142 Barvick water, x. Perth, 267, 727 Barwhinnock house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 40 Barwood, the, viii. Stirling, 139 — springs at, 147 Bas Alpine, tradition regarding, xi. For- far, 16 Bashaw, spring at, vi. Lanark, 566 — lime- works, 569 Basket ironworks, vi. Lanark, 315, 317 Bass, the, xii. Aberdeen, 681 Bass rock, the, il Haddington, 29, 318, 320, 330 Basscndcan, property of, ii. Berwick, 69, 81 — chapel, 71 — house, 74 Basta voe, xv. Shetland, 23, 32, 83 Bastleridge property, ii. Berwick, 136 Bath burn, v. Ayr, 692 Batha loch, x. Perth, 541 Bathemock tower, viii. Stirling, 171 Bathgate, parish of, ii. Linlithgow, 149 — town, 161 — burn, 155 Battery point, il Linlithgow, 1 — piers, 11 Battles bog, ii. Berwick, 254 OEHBKAL IHDBX. Baltle bum, li. Forfer, 3fl9 Battle cnirn, the, xl Forfer, 399 Bnttio ilnim wood, li. Forfiir, 399 RiUtleilfkn, campat, iL Forfai,29",694 BatUeAiiild In Ccimond, the, liL Abei- ■ deeti, 709 Battle hill oT Annan, iv. DumrrieB. 519 Battle hill nf Drumblnde. xii. Aberdeen, 302— of Huntly, 1037 Battle knove* of Wbitwunc, iL Derwick. 171 Battle lav of Italmerinn, ix. Fife, 587 RatUe muir iiF Lanjtton. ii. JlerwiL-k, 238 Battle well of Kinnell, xi. Fortkr. 399 Buttock mount, xi. FoHhr, 191, 623— Kincardine, "'-l, '2H1. 2;V2 Ballnck qunm-, viii. Stirling, 192 Bamrrich coi'llf, viii. Uvnbarton, 21S Bauden hill, ix. Fife, 105. 106 fluids moor, xtii. Banff, 2JI), 254 fisTelaw bum, i. Edinburgh, fiU Bay loch, xiv. InTCmiH, 323, 326 Bay of Martvra, the, tii, Argyle, 337 Bayanne Gdieriea, xv. Shetland, 30- Bavble bay. xii. Rjw, 117 Bayfield hoiue, liT. Ron, 30 Bayhoid, xiv, Ron, 1 1 II— village, 1 3S Ba^hinKra bat. ot. InTemen, 200 Bcu loch, IV. Orkney, Hfi Beach atone, the, xit. Invemes, 393 BeiKon hill of Brenay it. Zetland, 7 Bcnluch poB^ xiv. Ron, 171 B«ilach-an-duine pBuB, X, Perlh, 356 Bealochintie bay, viL Arnle. 377 Beannacha loch, xv. Sulberlond, iS Beanoch loch, it. SulheiUnd, 317 Bean^n houge, ii. Haddington, 23 B«BT hqpe, iiL Roxburgh. I9l Bear> heail. the, liii. Elgin, 44 BearsiiJe, Human road nt, liii. Stirling, 322 Beaatockrigit. cairn at, iv. Duiafrica, 157 Beath, parish of, is. Fife, t74_hill, ib. S21, 842, SCO Beatman'i acre, i. Eitinburgh. S39 Beatlock inn. It. Dumfries, 131 BMufbrt caallet xiv. Iniemen, 496 Brauljfrith.iiv. Inveincws 1,2,465,487 — Ilo«, 64. 39S Beauty loch, xiv. Invemen, 2, B Beauly priory, lir. Invemen, li, 365 Beanly river, xiv. Inemew. 10. SCI, 362, 363, 364, 459, 484, 487— Hon, 400 Beauly rillage, lii. Invemen, 3CI, 366, 369 Beaumont, lee Tkiinnont Beckton chnpel. ttc, iv. LIunnfrieB, 452 Dedcow mon, viii. Dunburtiin. 1U3 Bedehouw of Jfinciiriline, lii. Aberdeen, 833 Bedehouse of Ralhven, xiii. Banff, 267 Dedlavhouie, viiL Uunbortun, 173— lime- worVa. 179 Bcdiay houie. vi. Lanark, 401,407 — lime- worlw, 402— well, 400 I Bedlonnie houw^ii. Liniiihgow, SO Bedrule, parish ot iiL Roxburgh, 279— village, ib. 295— bill, 280, 281— castle, 1 284 1 Bee hohn, the, iv, Dumfries 483 I Bee loeb, liv. Inremem, IBS Beechwood house, L Eilinburgh, 215 I Beechwood hou»e,KettJn«,iLForfer,641 I Beechwood house, St Vigeans, xi. Forfiir, ' 498 Beg loch, xir. Invemen, 298 Beichglen.x. Perth, 581 Beil houee, &e. ij. Hji.l.linKi'Ti, 56,57, 359 Bcilig hill, xiv. I i,v,-n, (■,.«. M)ti Beinerard hill, v. .\ir, ll.i Btiu^vcHn l..i.-S. yW. Invtnu-^ 363 lttinnemhiiinlofh,iiv.lniC'nL,'.n,4B4.490 Htilh, pnrii.h,.f. r. AjT, 570— barony, 576 -town, 591 Beiach castle, riii. Dunbarlon, 223 Belcot hill, iv. Dumfries, 184 Belfield, Roman wall at, viii. Dunbarton, H \ f'CnietM, 241 Bellahoustown coiljeriea, vi. Lanark, 672 Bethit}', coins found at, li. Por&r, 420 Bcllcrnig linn and rock, iv. Dumfries, 122, 140 BclleUuff, tumuhiB of, x. Perth, 234 Belleiale liouse, r. Ayr, 4, 16 Belleville house, 4ic. iiv,Invemcs«,e4,84, UU, 87, Hi/ Bellevue Uoum-, ix. File, 783 Bell6eld houK, t. Ayr, 6t0 BelI6eld houae, ii. Fife, 8 BelJfield, improvementa at, xiv. Ross, 59, 60 Bellie, parish of, liiL Elgin, II.i Bellow water, v. Ayr, 326 Beltrory bill, luL Aberdceiu lOJB Bell^ bank, ptoperly of. v. Avr. 3. 317 Bell^ hill. ri. Lanark, 7BU— inllajjt', 797 Bell's moiDB village, i. Ediiibur^th. I H4 Bell's Khoal, Leitb, L F^linbui^li. 780 Bell's iiuany vilUge, L IMimiiiii'h, 37S lleU^wd house, LEdinl.uri;li.;il7 [Sl-IU-ooJ bouse, i. Perth, VJ)! Belmaduthy house, &c. xiv. Rosa, 58, 59 61 Belmeanach bay, xiv. — Invemen, 219 Belmont cottage, t. Ayr, 4 Belmonl house. L Edinburgh, 215 XVI aBNB&AL IKDBX. Belmont castle, &c. x. Perth, 232, 233, 235 Belnaboth church, xiL Aberdeen, 417 Belnagoak hill, xii. Aberdeen, 963 Belnahua isle, yii. Aigyle, 535 Belretiro churchyard, viii* Dunbarton, 222 Belndding, coal at, iv. Dumfries, 219 Belrinnes hill, xiii. Banff, 145 Belses quarry, iii. Roxburgh, 62 Belston property, &c. vi Lanark, 579, 581 Belston bridge, coal at, yi. Lanark, 567 Belston place, ironstone at, vi. Lanark, 571 Beltcraigs property, xi. Kincardine, 260 Beltenmont bridge, iv. Dumfries, 286 Belton bum, ii. Haddington, 71 — house, 80 Beltonford bum, ii Haddington, 359 Beltongrain lead mine, iv. Dumfries, 300, 303 Beltrees house, vil Renfrew, 76 Belty bum, xii. Aberdeen, 832 Bemersyde hill and house, ii. Berwick, 26 Benubhragidh, xv. Sutherland, 24 Benabhuiridh, vii. Argyle, 83 Benachain point, xiv. Inverness, 240 Benachally mount and loch, x. Perth, 1024, 1025 Benachie, xii Aberdeen, 422, 486, 562, 635, 693, 94d Benachielt, xv. Caithness, 84 Benagen, xiii Banff, 356, 357 — Elgin, 228 BenagheiL, battle of, xv. Caithness, 89 Benaich, viii. Dunbarton, 156 Benalder, xiv. Inverness, 418, 505 Benan, x. Perth, 345 Benanlocham, vii. Argyle, 702 Benantuirk, vii. ArgyJe, 377, 437 Ben Armin, xv. Sutherland, 214 Benartie, ix. Kinross, 30, 39, 44, 53, 70 Benascriodhain, vii. Argyle, 227 Benavon, xii. Aberdeen, 776 Benaw, xii. Aberdeen, 436 Ben Bainac, xiii. Banff, 298 Benbecula isle, xiv. Invemess, 159, 182, 188 Benbeoch, v. Ayr, 309, 313 Ben Bhraggie, xv. Sutherland, 214 Benblath, xiv. Inverness, 300 Benbord, xiii. Banff, 298 Benbraniachan, v. Ayr, 309 Benbreck caatle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 371 Benbui, vii Argyle, 2 — viii. Dunbarton, 158 Benbuie quarry, iv. Dumfries, 333 Benchait, x. Perth, 559 Bcnchaorach, vii Argyle, 471 BenchapuU, vii. Argyle, 62 Benchennin, xi. Forfar, 703 Bench ill, property, x. Perth, 181 Benchochan, x. Perth, 1150 Benchoinzie, x. Perth, 725 Benchreachin, x. Perth, 529 Benchrianeg, xiv. Ross, 158 Benchroin, x. Perth, 345 Bencleuch or Bencloich, viii Clackman- nan, 67, 77— Stirling, 176, 341~Imi- rony, 245 Benclibric, xv. Sutherland, 48, 58, 66, 149, 214 Bencochail, vii. Argyle, 470 Bencorafuar, viii Dunbarton, 156 Bencoinachantian, viii Dunbarton, 156 Bencruachan, vii. Aigyle, 83, 470 Bendearg, xiv. Ross, 74, 75— xv. Suther- land, 83 Bendeirg, x. Perth, 559 Bendhu, viii. Dunbarton, 156 Bendochy, pariah of, x. Perth, 1 176 Bendonich, vii Argyle, 702 Bendowrain, vii Argyle, 83 Beneaddan, vii. Argyle^ 165 Beneagen, see Benagen Benecarigen, v. Bute, 64 Beneich, viii Dunbarton, 231 Benemhian loch, xiv. Inverness, 484, 490 Benerard, v. Ayr, 415 Benfhadd, xiv. Ross, 182 Benfiectan, xv. Caithness, 17 Bengaillin, vii Argyle, 454 Bengaim, iv. Kirkcudbright, 140, 355 Bengali village, &c. iv. Dumfries, 453 Bengharbhlagaln, x. Perth, 529 Benghlo, x. Perth, 559 Benghulbhuinn, x. Perth, 786 Bengreim, xv. Orkney, 1 3 Bengriam-more and beg, xv. Sutherland, 135, 137,213 Benguallan, viii Stirling, 100 Benhar collieries, vi. Limark, 626 — ii. Lin- lithgow, 168 Benhee, xv. Sutherland, 214 Benhill of Rathven, xiii. Banff, 246 Benhemish, vii Argyle, 196 Benholme, parish of, xi. Kincardine, 51 — house, 27 — tower, 56 Benhonzie hill, x. Perth, 578 Benhope, xv. Sutherland, 83, 165, 170 Ben Horn, xv. Sutherland, 24, 26, 149, 150 Benhutig, xv. Sutherland, 165, 170 Benichonie, x. Perth, 491 Benie water, xiii. Elgin, 1 38 Benketlan, vii Argyle, 471 Benklybrich, see Benclybric Benlaoghall, XV. Sutherland, 165, 171 Benlaordh, vii. Argyle, 84 Benlawers, x. Perth, 453, 704 Benledi, x. Perth, 349 Benleod, xv. Sutherland, 119 Benleothaid, xv. Sutherland, 1 19 Benlester quarry, v. Bute, 9 Ben Leven, district of, viii. Stirling, 100 Benliga, iii. Peebles, 121 Benligh, xiv. Invemess, 218 Benlomond, viii. Stirling, 90, 156, 158 Bcnlubhain, vii Ai^le, 702 Benlui, viii. Stu-ling, 90 Benlundie, xv. Sutherland, 24 BenlyoU, xv. Sutherland, 165 GENERAL INDEX. XVU Benmacdui, xii. Aberdeen, 647 — > xiii. Banff, 125, 296, 298~EJgin, 138 Benmacmonaidh, viL Argyle, 83 Benmaigh, tu. Aigyle, 278 Benmheadhonaig, x. Perth, 559 Beninore, vii Argyle, 277, 298, 570— house, 610 Benmore, x. Perth, 1077 Benmore, xiv. Hobs, 158, 182 Benmore, xv. Sutherland, 105, 214 Bennabad, xv. Orkney, 13 Bennabuird, xji. Aberdeen, 647 Bennahua, viL Arg)'le, 165 Bennamaur, xiii. Banff, 1^ Bennamuickduidh, see Benmacdui Bennan, iv. Kirkcudbright, 108 — v. Ayr, 334, 394 Bennanaighean, viL Argyle, 471 Bennarty, ix. Fife, 195 Benneaw, xii. Aberdeen, 436 Bennetsfield houue, &c. xiv. Ron, 382, 390 Bennetston village, viii Stirling, 196, 198 Ben Nevis, xiv. Inverness, 1 17, 11 9« 503 — distillery, 511 Bennewe, xii Aberdeen, 526 Bennie burn, xi. Kincardine, 325 Bemochie, xii. Aberdeen, 422, 486,* 562 635, 693, 943 Benormin, xv. Sutherland, 135, 149, 150 Benrinnes, xiii Banff, 103, 111, 113, 124 Benruaidh, xv. Orkney, 13 Benshalgs loch, xiii. Elgin, 62 Benshea^gamich, x. Perth, 529 Benshith, x v. Sutherland, 119 Benshurery, xv, Orkney, 1 3 Bensmorale, xv. Sutherland, 214 Benspennie, xv. Sutherland, 3 Benspionnaidh, xv. Sutherland, 83 Benstac, xv. Sutherland, 119 Benstarive, \iL Argyle, 470 Benston limeworks, v. Ayr, 477, 51 1, 512 Benstroim, xv. Sutherland, 119 Bentarvie, xv. Sutherland, 2 Bentealluidh, viL Argyle, 277 Bents bum, xii. Aberdeen, 492 Bents house, L Edinburgh, 306 Benuaish, xiv. Ross, 244 Benuary, xv. Sutherland, 138, 189 Benudlamain, x. Perth, 529 Benulay, xiv. Ross, 171 Benuua, vii. Argyle, 702 Benushiniah, xiv. Ross, 158 Benvaichard, xiv. Ross, 263 Ben valla, iii. Peebles, 121 Benvan, vii. Argyle, 548 Benvan loch, xiv. Inverness, 363 Benvarian, v. Bute, 43 Benveallich, xv. Sutherland, 135, 189 Benveedan, vii. Argyle, 471 Ben venue, x. Perth, 1 150 Ben vie, xi. For&r, 460— annexed parish of, 568— spring, 569 Benvigory, vii. Argyle, 659 Benvoirlich, viii. Dunbarton, 94, 96, x. Perth, 578 VOL. XV. Benvrackie, x. Perth, 688 Benvraick, viii. Stirling, 100 Benvui, xiv. Inverness, 145 Benwhat, v. Ayr, 309 Benwyvis, xiv. Ross, 211, 212, 244, 313 Beoch castle, iv. Wigton, 232 — remains at, v. Ayr, 365 BeoUry hoiise, xiv. Inverness, 135 Beoraig loch, vii Argyle, 124, 126 Berbeth glen, v. Ayr, 335 — ^house, &c. 275, 315, 336, 338 Berfield, rocks at, xv. Shetland, 103 Beigisherard, district of, xv. Orkney, 148 Berkhall bouse, xii. Aberdeen, 778 Bemera isle, xiv. Ross, 155, Inverness, 155, 199, 200, 201— head, 199, 200— lighthouse, 199, 208— quarry, 203 Bemory, caves at, xv. Orkney, 14 Berry head, xv. Orkney, 71 Berry hill, x. Perth, 424— church, 433 Berry bridge house, xl Kincardine, 253 Berrybush moss, iii. Selkirk, 38 Berriedale castle, xv. Caithness, 91— church, 107— fisheries, 104— head, 85 —water and ^ey, 84, 86, 88 Berryhill limeworks, viii. Stirling, 143 — property, 155 Berry land quarry, ix. Fife, 841 Berryleys farm, xiii Banff, 217 Berrymuirhcad quarry, xi. For&r, 692 Bertram Shotts, parish of, vi. Lanark, 624 Bervie, parish of, xl Kincardine, I — ^brow or hill, 2, 5, 310— water, 1, 2, 28, 129, 153,154, 165,166 ^• Bethelnie, ancient parish of, xii Aberdeen, 474— hiU, 316, 475— burial ground, 478 Betteral well, xii Aberdeen, 1029 BettyhiU fidr, xv. Sutherland, 79 Beum a chaidleamh cave, xiii. Elgin, 125 Bhannerain fort, xiv. Inverness, 266 Bhealich loch, xiv. Ross, 172 Bhormskittaig point, xiv. Inverness, 24t Bhraggie hill, xv. Sutherland, 21 4 Bhragidli hill, xv. Sutherland, 24 Bhraoin loch, xiv. Ross, 72 Bhrodichan loch, xii Aberdeen, 648 Bhruach loch, xiii. Elgin, 125 Bible stone of Bimie, xiii. Elgin, 86 Bield inn, iii Peebles, 62 Bieldside house, xii Aberdeen, 106, 108 Big Cumbrae isle, v. Bute, 69 Big harbour, Portree, xiv. Inverness, 21 f Big loch, Lochbroom, xiv. Ross, 74 Bigga isle, xv. Shetland, 82 Biggar, parish o^ vi. Lanark, 354 — bat- tle, 358 — camps at, 362 — moss, 358— property, 359— village, 355, 356— wa- ter, 355, iii. Peebles, 79, 125 Biggarpark house, vi. Lanark, 364 Biggarshields, improvements at, vi. Lar nark, 372 B^house, conventicle at, il Berwick, 265 — house, 270— chapel, 276 Bighouse bay, xv. Caithness 14 c XVIU GENERAL INDEX. Bigla's chair, xiiu Elgin, 1 32 Bigrock hill, xiv. Roas, 74 Bigstone of Morangie, xIt. Roes, 284 Bigswell, tumuli at, xv. Orkney, 68 Bilho quarry, xii. Aberdeen, 705 Bilbfiter bum, xv. Caithneas, 123— house, 142 Bilsdean \illage, ii. Haddington, 356 Billyneat head, ix. Fife, 256 Bimar rock, &c. ix. Fife, 231, 828 Bin hill of Bo>'ndie, xiiL Banff, 220 Bin hill of Burntisland, ix. Fife, 220 Bin hill of Cleish, ix. Kinross, 44 Bin hill of Cullen, xiii. Banff, 314, 315 Bin hill of Kinfauns, x. Perth, 1206 Bin hill of Kathven, xiii. Banff, 246 Bindhill, improvements at, xiv. Ross, 465 Binean hill, x. Perth, 345 Binend loch, Tii. Renfrew, 385 Binghill house, xii Aberdeen, 106, 108 Binks house, ii. Linlithgow, 3 Binliga hill, iii. Peebles, 121 Binn, see Bin Binnan hill, vii Renfrew, 406 Binnaness voe, xv. Shetland, 69 Binnicaragan chapel, v. Bute, 54 Binning wood, ii. Haddington, 35, 36 Binns hill, ii. Linlithgow, 1 8 — house, 26 Binny quarry, ii. Linlithgow, 1 79 Binnycraig hill, ii; Linlithgow, 170 Biaram^ cross, iii. Selkirk, 4C Binsneas head, xiii. Elgin, 215 Birch6eld house, xiii. Elgin, 231 Birdajtone, remains at, viii. Stirling, 243 Biignam chapel, ii. Ber>vick, 50^ mineral spring, 52 — vilhige, 54 Birkcleugh water, vi. Lanark, 503 Birkeii bush, the, xi. Forfiir, 294 Birkennhaw colliery, vi. Lanark, 723 Birkenside i)roperty, ii. Berwick, 351 — camp, 353 Birkfield limeworks, &c. vi. Lanark, 569, 571 Birkhill house, ix. Fife, 578, 588 Birkhill pass, iv. Dumfries, 1 02 Birkhill village, xi. Forftir, 586 Birkhillside house, ii. Berwick, 354 Birkle hilLs xv. Caithness, 1 38 Bimam hill, x. Perth, 424, 1005— house, 1008 Bimie, parish of, xiii. Elgin, 83 Bimic slack, xl Kincardine, 74 Bimiehall, coal at, vi. Lanark, 81 Bimieknowe colliery, v. Ayr, 326 Bims water, ii. Haddington, 101, 272 Birreir rock, xv. Shetland, 83 Birrens, camps of, iv. Dumfries, 197, 365 Birrenswark, remains at, iv. Dumfries, 292 Birsay, burgh of, xv. Orkney, 151 Birsay and Harrav, united parish of, xv. Orkney, 148 Birse, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 786 — fo- rest, 787 — xi. Kincardine, 232 Birslcy collieries, ii. Haddington, 2H8 fiirtliwood house, vi. Lanark, 341 Bishop*s bridge villagCf vi Lanark, 408 Bishop^ bum, it. Wigton, 1, 168 Bishop*8 church, xiiL Elgin, 85 Bishop*s forest hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 266 Bishop's hill, ix. Kinross, 30, 31, 53 Bishop's house, vii. Aig>'le, 333 Bishop's isle, xiv. Inverness, 201 Bishop's loan, ii. Berwick, 109 Bishop's loch, xii. Aberdeen, 1026 Bishop's loch, xi. For&r, 75 Bishop's loch, vL Lanark, 102, 401, 642 Bishop's mill, vi. Lanark, 406 Bishop's palace, Rayne, xii. Aberdeen,424 Bishop's palace, Kinnedder,xiiL Elgin, 151 Bishopli palace', Kirkwall, xv. Orkney, 4 Bishop's palace, Rosemarkie, xiv. Rots, 351 Bishop's seat hill, vii. Aigyle, 570 Bishopmill village, xiii. Elgin, 97, 99 Bishopton house, vii. Renfrew, 501 Bixter voe, xv. Shetland, 101 Bizzyberry hill, vi Lanark, 354, 357, 362 Blackadder, coal at, ii Berwick, 167— house, 171, 266, 270— property, 266 — spring, 266— water, 33, 40, 41, 66, 224, 267, 366 Blackburn house, &c v. A3rr, 9 Blackbum village, ix. Fife, 874 Blackburn >illage, ii. Linlithgow, 1 1 9 Blackburn water, xiiL Elgin, 1 96 Blackburn water, xi Kincardine, 299, 304 , 325 Blackburn water, vi Lanark, 499 Blackbum water, iii. Roxburgh, 441, 442 — remains at, 444 Bluck)>unihaugh quarry, ii. Linlithgow, 8 1 Black cuira, xii Aberdeen, 425 Black cairn hill, ix. P'ife, 57 Black Cart river, vii Renfrew, 2, 47, 82, 115, 147,354,355,357,538 Black castle, the, ii. Haddington, 96 Blackcastle hill, ii. Haddington, 24 1 Blackcustle ring:), ii Berwick, 43 Black chapel of the moor, xii Aberdeen, 1048 Black Chester camp, ii Berwick, 5 Blaekcleugh quarry, iv. Dumfries, 284 Black cove, the,iv. Kirkcudbright, 356 Blackcraig castle, v. Ayr, 517 Blackcraig head, xv. Oikney, 27 Blackcraig hill, v. Avr, 509, 510 Blackcraig hill, ix. F'ife, 632, 633 Blackcraig hill, x. Perth, 1096 Blackcraig ironworks, vi. Lanark, 317 Blackcraig quarry, viii. Stirling, 330 Blackden, remains at, xi. Forfar, 358 Black Devon water, viii Clackmannan, 2, 8, 122 Black dikes, the, ii. Berwick, 43 Black dykes, camp at, xi Forfar, 694 Black Kumside forest, x. Perth, 810 Blackerhtone property, &c. ii. Berwick, i)X 95 Black Esk water, iv. Dumfries, 398, 409, 430 GEHB&AI INDBJT. XIX Blackct house, iv. Dumfries, 365, 366 Blacket house tower, iv. Dumfries, 280 filacketrigg limeworks, &c iv, Dumfries, 282, 284 Blackford, parish of, x. Perth, 297 Blackfriars* monastery, Ayr, v. Ayr, 36 — Edinburgh, i. Edinburgh, 656 — Perth, X. Perth, 64 — St Andrews, ix. Fife, 468— Stirling, viii. Stirling, 423 — Wigton, iv. Wigton, 3 Blackgate, stones at, xi. Forfar, 605 Blackball house, &c. xi. Kincardine, 233, 324, 326 Blackball limeworks, &c. vii. Renfrew, 150, 153— house, 194 Blackhaugh castle, i. Edinburgh, 418 Blackhill of Peterhead, xiL Aberdeen, 345, 362, 364 Blackhill, camps on, vi. Lanark, 503 Blackhill of Nigg, xiv. Ross, 22 Blackhillock limeworks, xiii. Banff, 390 — remains at, Nairn, 12 Blackbills, property, &c. of, xiii. Elgin, 1,4 Blackbills, rocks at, xi. Kincardine, 246 Blackbope scaurs, i. Edinburgh, 49, 198 — iiL Peebles, 79 Blnckhouse, the, v. Ayr, 364 — improve- ments at, 803 Blackhouse hills, iii Selkirk, 30— tower, 46 Blackie moor mill, xi. Kincardine, 130 Bla^'k isle of Cromaiiy, xiv. Ross, 23, 38, .383 — iarming society, 355 Black Jack castle, xi. For&r, 251 Blacklarg hill, iv. Dumfries, 297 Blacklaw bill, iv. Dumfries, 102 Blacklaw hill, xl Forfer, 461 Blacklaw bum, vi. Lanark, 848 — colliery, 881— house, 889 Blacklaws, quarry at, ix. Fife, 979 Black loch, xiii. Banff, 298 Black loch, iv. Dumfries, 3, 504 Black loch, ix. Fife, 829 Black loch, vi. Lanark, 77 Black loch, x. Perth, 908 Black loch, vii. Renfrew, 516 Black loch, viii. Stirling, 275 Black Mill bay, vii. Argyle, 73 Blackmire spring, xii. Aberdeen, 1071 Blackmoor, camp on, xiv. Ross, 460 Black mount, the, \'i. Lanark, 847 Blackness, xi. Forfar, 568 Blackness bum, ii. Linlithgow, 19, 57 — castle, 55, 60, 68— remains at, 26, 65 —village, 72, 73 Blackpots brickfield, xiii. Banfi^ 6, 237 Black Quarter of Inch, the, iv. Wigton, 129 Blackridge village, ii. Linlithgow, 52— church, 53 Bhvck rock of Troon, v. Ayr, 669, 670 Black»boat ferry, xiii. Banff, 139 Blackshaw flat, iv. Dumfries, 349— vil- lage, 356 Black Springs, the, i. Edinburgh, 545 Blackstob plantations, xiii. Elgin, 205 Black stone of Odin, xv. Orkney, 81 Blackstoun house, vii. Renfrew, 358, 369, 370— tillage, 520 Black tower, iu. Roxburgh, 388, 392 Black water, see Blackadder Black water, v. Ayr, 529 Black water, xiii. Banff, 197 Blackwater house, xiii. Banff, 197, IJ'8 Blackwater foot, caim at, v. Bute, 53 Blackwater, district of, xi. Forfhr, 422 Black water, iv. Kirkcudbright, 369 Black water, x. Perth, 785, i\9d, 904, 1110,1178, 1180 Black water, xiv. Ross, 236, 367 Black water, viii. Stirling, 396 Black water, xv. Sutherland, 48, 66, 151 Blackwood hill, iv. Dumfries, 460 — house, &c. 466, 467 Blackwood, remains at, vi. Lanark, 33 Blackwood hill, vii. Renfrew, 384— lochs* 385 Bladenoch village, &c. iv. Wigton, 6 — water, I, 11, 168, 196,220 Blae loch, v. Ayr, 572 Blaikly's hill, ii. Berwick, 1 30 "^ Blainslie moss, iiL Roxburgh, 75 Blah- castle, x. Perth, 565, 568, 601 Blair, cave at, v. Ayr, 211— house, &c. 213,216 Blair house, &c. ix. Fife, 696, 706 Blair mount, x. Perth, 786, 898, 1111 — xi. Forfar, 422, 424— moor, x. Perth, 900, 906 Blair Adam house, &c. ix. Kinross, 39, 40, 42, 48 Blair Athol, parish of, x. Perth, 558 Blairbum village, x. Perth, 601 Blairdaff chapel, xii. Aberdeen, 577 Blair Drummond house, &c. x. Perth, 1255, 1264— moss, 1268 Blairfindy castle, &c. xiii. Banff, 132, 133 Blaii^owrie, parish of, x. Perth, 896— villajge, 246, 900, 923 Blairhill limeworks, v. Ayr, 382 Blairhill, remains i^ iv. Wigton, 233 Blairinroan, battle of, x. Perth, 315, 32ff Blair Ix)gie village, viii. Stirling, 215,231 Blairmackhole moss, ii. Linlithgow, 76 Blaimgone village, x. Perth, 1021 Blaimnacoi, battie of, xiv. Ross, 57 Blaimo, remains at, xi. Forfar, 689 Blairquhan castle, &c. v. Ayr, 335, 336» 338, 501 Blairquhoss, tree at, viii. Stirling, 76 Blairs loch, xiii. Elgin, 240 Blairs, Catholic seminar v of, xi. Kincar- dine, 176,194 ■ ^ Blairs, Wallace's tree at, viii. Stirling, 348 Blairston house, v. Ayr, 33, 363 Blairtubimock, urns found at, xi. Lanark* 651 Blairvie castle, xiii Elgin, 239, 242, 24a XX GENERAL INDEX. Bkkeiiope, see Bbckhope HUkelav hill, iii. Roxbui^, 145 RUkely^ well, xv. Orkney, 2 HUku|\ 8ee Blackhope BUIowne house, ix. Fife, 8 BKine water, viii Dunbarton, 36, Stiiv ling. 60, 61,71 BUme^rd printworks, viiL Stirling, 82 Blii^tvre pariah, vi Lanark, 314 — ^barony, 31^craig, 314— priory, 316, 320— village, 321, 325— limeworks, 316, 322 Blar Bhatterniah, battle o^ xiv. Inver- noM, 330 Blarmore, remains at, v. Bute, 23 Blar Fiadh forest, xiv. Invemeas, 445, 449 Blar na cann, the, xiv. Ro88,236— inn, 250 Blar na paire, battle of, xiv. Ross, 255 Blarour school, xiv. Inverness, 511 .Blar Seine, battle of, vii. Argyle, 142 Blath bheinn hill, xiv. Invemess^ 300 Blawert hill, vii Renfrew, 7 Blearic^s stone, viL Renfrew, 14 Blebo mills, ix. Fife, 724 Bleeding bum, xii. Aberdeen, 1062 Bleedy gill, iv. Dumfries, 70 Bleedy pots, the, xiii. Banff, 283 Blelack house, xii. Aberdeen, 1073 Blelock standing stones, x. Perth, 433 Bleneme, property of, iL Berwick, 118 Blervie castle, xiii Elgin, 239, 242, 248— remains at, 250 Blind well, ii Berwick, 169 Blind bum, vi Lanark, 608 Blinkbonny hill, ii. Berwick, 216 Bloak well, v. Ayr, 728 Blochairo, cairns at, viii. Stirling, 171 Bloody burn, v. Ayr, 751 Bloody butts, xi Forfar, 607 Bloody fuulds, xii. Aberdeen, 613 Bloody lands, ii Haddington, 209 Bloody laws, iii. Roxburgh, 259 Bloody pits, xiii. Banff, 283 Bloody Sykcs, vi. Lanark, 481 Bloody Tuacks, the, xv. Orkney, 1 26 Bloonihill house, viii- Dunbarton, 87 Blue hill, xiii. Banff', 1 1 1 Blue Mull sound, xv. Shetland, 23, 24 Bluestone Ford bridge, ii Berwick, 128 Blumel sound, xv. Shetland, 36 Blythswood house, vii Renfrew, 18, 19 — tileworks, 127 Boadsberry hill, camp on, vi^ Lanark, 331 Boarhills village, ix. Fife, 449, 481 Boarlan loch, xiv. Ross, 403 Boars^ chase district, ix. FifSe, 360 Boars of Duncansbay, xv. Caithness, 23 Boar stone, the, ii. Haddington, 209 Boiit cave at Staffa, \-ii Argyle, 352 Boat of Bridge, the, xiii. Banff, 359, 365 Boatgreen village, &c. iv. Kirkcudbright, 303, 375 ' Boath hill, xi. Forfar, 354, 357 Boath house, &c. xiii Nairn, 8, 9, 13 Bochastle, ruins of, x. Perth, 354 Bochle hill, xiu. Banff, 123 Boddam castle, xii Aberdeen, 364— light- house, 703— village, 345, 378 i Bodisbeck hill, iv. Dumfries, 102, 104 I Boe'ft cave, vii. Argyle, 414 Bog colliery, v. Ayr, 444 Bog, school at, xiv. Invemess, 501 Bog loch, xi Kincardine, 325 Bogany point, v. Bute, 99 Bogbain, improvements at, xiii Banf^ 389 Bogend of Stevenston, v. Ayr, 430 Bogend colliery, vi Lanark, 625 Bogendollo, rocks at, xi. Kincardine, IIS BoghaU loch, v. Ayr, 572, 580 Boghall castle, vi Lanark, 354, 363 Boghead limeworks, &c. v. Ayr, 324, 328 Boghead, remains foimd at, xiii Banff, 161 Boghead, remains found at, xi. Kincar- dine, 58 Boghead mills, viii Dunbarton, 199— plantations, 184 Bedhead Ihneworks, &c. vi Lanark, 259 —village, 38 Boghead rookery, ii Linlithgow, 156 Boghead factory, vii Renfrew, 104 Bog^ouse castle, vi Lanark, 502 Boghouse of Kilsyth, viii Stirling, 140, 141 Bogie water, xii. Aberdeen, 297, 407, 408* 584, 1036, 1037— xiii Banff, 95 Bogie house, ix. Fife, 154 Bogle hill quarries, ix. Fife, 559 Bogle Mart street, v. Ayr, 427 Bogle's hole, the, i Edinburgh, 282 Bogle's hole ford, vi. Lanark, 424 Bogmill, tree at, x. Perth, 380 Bogrie hill,iv. Dumfries, 337— tower, 341 Bogroy, spring at, xiii. Elgin, 62 Bogside, ruins at, v. Ayr, 360 Bogside coal at, vi.. Lanark, 567 Bogside of Kilsyth, the, viii. Stirling, 1 40 Bogton loch, V. Ayr, 310, 313 Boharm parish, xtii Banff, 355 — vallev, 363 Bohespick district, x. Perth, 559 Boiling well, the, ix. Fife, 265 Boindie parish, xiii. Banff, 220 — burn,i6. —village, 230 Boisdale loch, xiv. Inverness, 183, 195— chapel, 188 Boldbura, iii. Peebles, 39 Boleskine and Abertarff, patish of, xiv. Inverness, 51 Bolfracks, district of, x. Perth, 533 Bolshan hill, xi. ForiBw, 393 — castle, &c. 394, 397 Bolton parish, ii. Haddington, 271— -bum, ib. 272— house, 275 Boltonmuir, camp at, ii. Haddington, 274 Bombie castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 20 Bombiemains, remains at, iv. Kircud- bright. 20 Bomflat of Dalserf, vi. I^anark, 733 Bomphlet, moat at, vi Lanark, 362 Bona church, xiv. Invemess, 14 OENBRAL IKDEX. XXI Bon Accord, quoad aacra parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 1077, 1078 Bonally ponds,!. Edinbui^h, 109-^house, 114,120 Bonar bridge, xiv. Ross, 282, 422, xv. Su- therland, 18,20,21,215 Bonamess village, xiv. Ross, 432 Boncastle, ruins of^ vi. Lanark, 484 Bonchester hill, iii. Roxburgh, 208, 212 Bo^esB, see Bbrrowstownness BonesB, camp at, xiv. Inverness, 14 Bonessan village, vii. Ai^gyle, 310 Bongate obelisk, &c. iii Roxbwgh, 12, 13 Bonhard colliery, ii. Linlithgow, 70^ house, (58 — village, 75 Bonhard, remains at, x. Perth, 1063 Bonhill parish, viil. Dunbarton, 220 — house, ib — village, 228 Bonington falls, vi. Lanark, 5— house, &c ih. 5, 9, 16, 18, 957 Bonjedward tower, ilL Roxburgh, 11— house, 14 — village, 18 Bonkle village, vi Lanark, 621 Bonnan hill, vi. Lanark, 303 Bonnington, property of, i Edinburgh, 83 — house, 92— mineral spring at, 621 Bonnington, see Bonington Bonninton, spring at, vii Renfrew, 385 Bonny water, viii. Stirling, 3, 116, 139 Bonnybridge village, viii. Stirling, 3, 22 Bonnyrigg, village of, i. Edinbur^ 609 Bonnyford saw mill, viii. Stirling, 123 Bonnymuir, skirmish at, viii. Dunbarton, 149, Stirling, 8— distillery, 20 Bonnyside sawmills, viii. Stirling, 1 9 Bonnvton den and castle, xi. Forfiur, 1 1 6 —village, 334 Bonshaw house, iv. Dunbarton, 280 Bony brae, iii Roxburgh, 317 Bonytown, spring at, ix. Fife, 454 Boon hill, ii Berwick, 348, 349— stone at, 363 Boon the brae, chapel and spring at, vii. Renfrew, 328 Boon Dreigh water, ii. Berwick, 347, 349 lk)quhan bum, &c. viii. Stirling, 26, 48, 266— glen,60,53— property, Ac 51,266 Bord bum, viii Dunbarton, 173 Bord hill, xiii. Banff, 298 Bore spring, vii. Renfrew, 20 Bore stdhe, Bannockbum, viii. Stirling, 316, 323 Bore stone, Gask, x. Perth, 338 Boreland castle, v. Avr, 482— remains at, 39 Boreland house, iv. Dumfries, 538— tower, 127 Boreland village, ix. Fife, 135, 139 Boreland, dun of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 53 Boreland hill, &c. iii Peebles, 137, 141 Boreland house, x. Perth, 1087 BoreUnd property, vii. Renfrew, 395 Borennich district, x. Pei-th, 660 Boreraig, chapel at, xiv. Inverness, 305 —school, 339 Boigie water, xv. Sutherland, 69, 170, 179,216 Borgue, rock at, xv. Caithness, 87 Borgue, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 47 Borland, chapel at, v. Ayr, 479, 482 Borland bum, vi Lanark, 852— quarry, 860— remains at, 854 Borley loch, xv. Sutherland, 87 Bomess head, iv. Kirkcudbright, 48, Wigton, 24 Bomirii property, xiv. Invemess, 190 Bomiskittaig, caves at, xiv. Invemess, 248 Borough nuir, i Edinburgh, 7, 624 Borough head, iv. Wigton, 36 Borrow point, iv. Kirkcudbright, 235 Borrowfield moss, xi Forfar, 280 Borrowmuir hills, xi. Kincardine, 132 Borrowston, caves at, xv. Orkney, 13 Borrowstownness, parish of, ii. Linlithgow, 120— town, 134, 136, 139 Borthwick parish, i Edinbuiigh, 150— castle, 156, 167, 171— church, 172— village, 186 Borthwick water, iii. Roxburgh, 76, 87, 89, 380, 428, Selkirk, 79 Borthwfckbrae house, iic iii Roxbui|^, 90,92 Borthwick hill, remains at, i Edinburgh, 202 Borthwickshiels house, &c. iii Roxbui;^, 90, 9), 92 Borve castle, xiv. Inverness, 188 — school, 294 Borve water, xiv. Ross, 143 Boss cairns, iv. Kirkcudbright, 131 Botanic garden, Edinburgh, i Edinbuigfa, 691 — Glasgow, vi. Lanark, 175 Bckthkennar parish, viii. Stirling, 201 Bothland bum, vi Lanark, 401, 403 Bothwell bum, ii Haddington, 225 Bothwell parish, vi Lanark, 766 — barony,. 778— cartle, 315, 769, 783, 787, 957— church, 788— village, 766, 770, 793, 797 Bothwell bridge, vi. I^nark, 250, 286, 766, 771, 789— battle of, 266, 779 Bothwell oistle, village of, vi. Lanark, 793 Bothwellhaugh, property of, \i, Lanark, 784— bridge at, 789 Bothwell muir, vi. Lanark, 624 Bothwellpark house, vi Lanark, 784 Botriphnie parish, xiii. Banff, 209— house,. 210 Bottomless mire, vi Lanark, 481 Boughtrig plantations, iii. Roxburgh, 194 Bounne8B,tthe, xv. Shetland, 95 Bouriefad village, xi Forfar, 152 Bourjo, the, iii. Roxburgh, 61 Bourock, limestone at, v. Ayr, 291 Bourtrie parish, xii. Aberdeen, 620 Bousta, hamlet of, xv. Shetland, 96 Boveray isle, xiv. Inverness, 163, 170» Bow castle, i Edinburgh, 418 Bow cave, the, xiii Braff, 179 XXI 1 GENERAL INDEX. Bow of Hackwick rocks, xv. Orkney, 116 Dowb«at hill, i. P^dinbuigh, 49 Bowbridgc colliery, v. Ayr, 444 Bowbutts of Glencaim, !▼. Dumfries, 331 Bowbotts of Strachan, xi. Kincardine, 236 lk)wdcn hill, viii. Dunbarton, 181 lk)wdcn hill, ii. Linlithgow, 35 — camp on, 50 Bowden parish, iii. Roxburgh, 34— bum, 36— moor, 35^village, 36, 39, 48 Bower parish, xv. Caithness, 114 Bower none, iii. Selkirk, 30 Bower of Wandell, vi. Lanark, 818 Bower park, vi. Lanark, 818 Bowerhouses house, ii. Haddington, 227 Bowermadden property, xv. Caithness, 114 Bowfield bleachfield, vii. Renfrew, 102— house, 76 Bowhill house, &c iii. Selkirk, 2, 5 Bowhouse farm, xi. Forfar, 412 Bowknap rock, vii. Argyle, 259 Bowland house, I Edinburgh, 417 Bowling bay, viii. Dunbarton, 1 6 — village, 29 Bowman stone, xH. Aberdeen, 426 Bowman'b flat, vi. Lanark, 733 Bowmont water and vale, iii. Roxburgh, 159, 160, 448, 450, 462- forest, 223 Bowmore village, vii. Argyle, 668, 669 Bowncas canal, iv. Dumfries, 259 Bowtree dam, vi. Lanark, 378 Boydston castlehill, v. Ayr, 257 Boyne bum, xiii. Banff, 1, 178, 179, 220 —castle, 1, 224— forest, 220— house, 226, 228— thanedome, 15 Boyne's mill house, xii. Aberdeen, 601 Boyndie bum, xiii. Aberdeen, 2, 40, 46— bay, 2, 5 Boyndlie house, xii. Aberdeen, 723 Braan water, x. Perth, 251, 453, 455, 1005 Brabloch house, vii. Renfrew, 198 Brabster house, &c. xv. Caithness, 24, 27 Brabsterdorran, property of, xv. Caith- ness, 115 BrAbsterniire, xv. Caithness, 31 Bracadolc, parish of, xiv. Invemess, 295 —loch, 296, 323 Braccans, tumuli at, xii. Aberdeen, 993 Brachan camp, xi. Forfar, 548 Bracholy, suppressed parish of, xir. In- verness, 375 Bracken heugh, the, v. Ayr, 289 Brackla distillery, xiii. Nairn, 26 Brackland bridge, x. Perth, 352 Bracklaw bum, xi. Forfar, 525 Braco, farm of, xiii. Banff, 217 • Braco plantations, x. Perth, 318 — village, 327, 331, 332 Bractie law, xi. Forfar, 386 Bractullo, remains at, xi. Forfiir. 386 Braden loch, v. Ayr, 334 , Brae, district of, xiv. Invemess, 5 1 1 Brae Dunstan, ii. Berwick, 51 Brae Moray, xiii. Elgin, 179 Brae Riach hill, xiii Elgin, 137 Brae Roy chapel, xir. Invemen, 126 Brae of Airlie, xL For&r, 671 Brae of Fea hill, xv. Orkney, 86 Brae of Feam, xL For&r, 312 Brae of Fetteresso, xi Kincardine, 246 Brae of the Well, xiv. Inverness, 380 Braes, improvements at, viiL Dunbarton, 198 Braes, property of, xiiL Elgin, 120 Braes of Angus, xi. Forfar, 636 Braes of Avon, xiii. Banff, 298 Braes of Fordoun, xi. Kincardine, 68 Braes of Gartly, xiii. Banff, 95 Braes of Gleniffer, vii. Renfrew, 140, 160 Braes of Glenlivat, xiii. Banff, 124 Braes of Kilpatrick, viii Dunbarton, 36 Braes of I^m, vii Argyle, 62 Braes of Orwell, ix. Kinross, 53 Braes of Pettie, xiv. Inverness, 377 Braes of Portree, xiv. Inverness, 233 Braehead house, i. Edinburgh, 597 Braehead, camp on, vi Lanark, 8 1 7 — vil- lage, 90, 898 Braehead house, vii Renfrew, 5— rocks at, 148 Rraehungay, xv. Caithness, 87 Braelang^ell lodge, xiv. Ross, 423— pro- perty, &c. 43, 48--distilIery, 49 Braemar, district of, xii Aberdeen, 617— castle, 650— Highland Society, 653 Braemore, rocks at, xv. Caithness, 87 Braeroddoch loch, xii. Aberdeen, 1050 Braga ness, xv. Shetland, 105 Bragar bay, xiv. Ross, 142 — remains at, 145 Brahan castle, xiv. Ross, 252, 366, 401 Braichlich property, xiv. Invemess, 375 Braid burn, i Edinburgh, 109— hills, 615 Braid goc, xv. Caithness, 118 Braid, remains at, iv. Wigton, 232 Braidlee, remains found at, v. Ayr, 846 Braidwood, barony of, vi. Lanark, 577-^ collieries, 567 — house, 582 — limeworks, &c. 569, 571 — remains at, 581 — village, 592 Brakes, remains found at, viii. Stirling, 210 Braky, property of, xi. Forfar, 395 Brallaig loch, vii Argyle, 64 Bran glen, x. Perth, 219— water, ^51, 453, 455, 1005 Branbury hill, quarry at, xv. Sutherland, 159 Brandir pass, vii. Argyle, 88 Brand's hill, xi. Kincardine, 271 Braniachan hill, v. Ayr, 309 Brannan stancs, the, xiii. Banff, 225 Branteth qnarrv, iv. Dumfries, 284 — well, 276 Branxholm castle, iii Roxburgh, 38l», 393 Branxton plantations, ii. Haddington, 234, 238 Brany loch, xi. Forfar, 436^water, 192 QEKERAL INDEX. XXIII Braon loch, xiv. Ross, 72 BraiiHa sound, xv. Shetland* 1 Brawblin, springs at, xv. Caithness, 15 Brawl castle, xv. Caithness, 70 Brawlinknows, chapel at, xiiL Banff, 97 Brax quarry, xi. Forfiur, 496 Breacaclia bay, vii. Aigyle, 199^K»stle, 207 Breacdearg Ipch, xiv. Inverness, 491 Breadiesholme house, vL Lanark, 652 Breadalbane castle, x. Perth, 345 — Agrir cultural Association, 476 Breakachy burn, xiv. Inverness, 419 Brechin, parish and town, xi Forfar, 129 .castle, 131, 1 34,-.cathedral, 133 Brecken hill, iv. Dumfries, 204 Breckry glen, vii. Argyle, 41 3— water, 416 Brecon voe, xv. Shetland, 24 Brediland pottery, viL Renfrew, 156— property, 197 Bredus' well, x. Perth, 652 Breedsorrow, tradition regarding, v. Ayr, 800 Breich bum, vi. Lanark, 608 Breich bum, ii. Linlithgow, 76, 116 Brenahegleish hill, xv. Caithness, 84 Breoshaw quarry, vL Lanark, 423 Breriach mount, xii. Aberdeen, 648 Bressay isle and sound, xV. Shetland, 1, 7,9 Bressay, Burra,and Quarff, umted parishes of, XV. Shetland, 7 Breston, Roman road at, v. Ayr, 39 Brewers^ Know, viii. Clackmannan, 108 Brewery village, i. Edinburgh, 1 84 Briarachan water, x. Perth, 638, 639 Bricedale house, ix. Fife, 749 Brichty glen, xi. Forfar, 421 Brickfield, tilework at, ii. Linlithgow, 71 Brickigoe, xv. Caithness, 119— loch, 124 Bridekirk, village, &c. of, iv. Dumfries, 526, 536 Brides ness, xv. Orkney, 104 Bridewell, Aberdeen, xii. Aberdeen, 80 Bridewell, Edinburgh, i. Edinburgh, 720 Bridewell, Glasgow, vl Lanark, 215 Bridge of Allan village, viii, Stirling, 218, 231 Bridge of Alvah, xiii. Banff, 146 Bridge of Cree village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 134 Biidge of Dee village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 188 Bridge of Dunkeld, x. Perth, 991 Bridge of Earn nllage, x. Perth, 797, 817 Bridge of Orr village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 2b0 Bridge of Teith village, x. Perth, 1230, 1240— chapel, 1231 Bridge of Weir factory, viL Renfrew, 51 —village, 371,378 Bridge castle, ruins of, ii. Linlithgow, 60 colliery, 38, 52— house, 38 Bridgend, Cardross, village, viiL Dunbar- ton, 88, 91 Bridgeod, Dalkeith, village, L Edinbuigh, 510 Bridgend, Dunse, ii. Berwick, 249 Bridgend, Uyndford, village, vL Lanark, 24 Bridgend, Kinnoull, village, x. Perth, 939 Bridgend, Largs, improvements at, v. Ayr, 803 Bridgend, Leggerwood, ii. Berwick, 348 Bridgend, Lochwinnoch, bridge, m Ren- frew, 96 Bridgend, Maybole, castle, v. Ayr, 366 Bridgend, Melrose, village, ill. Roxburgh, 68 Bridgend, Ruthven, xi. Forfar, 413 Bridgend, Rosskeen, village, xiv. Ross, 272 Bridgehouse, property o^ ii. Linlithgow, 62 Bridgeness, il Linlithgow, 66 — village, 72 Bridgeton, Redgorton, cairns at, x. Perth, 172 Bridgeton, St Cyrus, hill, xL Kincardine, 270— house, 283 Bridgeton, St Vigeans, xi For&r, 496 Bridgetown of Spev, xiii Banff, 366 Briech water, ii Linlithgow, 76, 116 Brierbush village, iv. Dumfries, 608 Briery well, the, ix. Fife, 964 Brig o* Tram, the, xv. Caithness, 119 Brigham or Birghain village, ii. Berwick, 54 Brighton's quarry, viii Stirling, 192 Briglands &rm, xiii Banff, 366 Brigton hUl, xi Forfer, 207 Brigton of Ruthven, xi. For&r, 413 Brindister ness and voe, xv. Shetland, 101 Brindy hill, xii Aberdeen, 693 Brisbane observatory, v. Ayr, 788.-.glen and house, 788, 799 Broad bay, xiv. Ross, 117 Broad moss, x. Perth, 244 Broadfield house, vii Renfrew, 68 Broadford foctories, xii Aberdeen, 1077 Broadford church, &.c xiv. Inveraess, 306 — Umeworks, 278, 310— village, 306, 307 Broadhaven, copper ore at, xv. Caithness, 126— vilhige, 153, 167, 158 Broadhill, the, xii. Aberdeen, 6 Broadlaw, rocks at, xi. Forfar, 144 Broadlaw bill, iv. Dumfries, 103 Broadlaw hill, iii. Peebles, 56 Broadlee, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 90 Broadlie factory, vii. Renfrew, 336 Broadmeadows house, ii Berwick, 163, iii. Selkirk, 6 Broadstone Umeworks, v. Ayr, 673 Broats house, iv. Dumfries, 280 Brochlock, skirmish at, v. Ayr, 360— cas- tle, 365 Brock bum, vii Renfrew, 34, 316, 638 Brock hill, iii Selkirk, 40 Brockshole, ironstone at, vi. Lanark, 571 Brodichan loch, xii. Aberdeen, 648 Brodick bay, v. Bute, 3— castle, 11, 22 —harbour, &c 32, 33— church, 34 XXIV OBKERAL INDEX. Brodie house, ziil Elgin, 2, 5, 218, 222 — obelisk at, 221 — quarries, Nairn, 8 —^plantations, 9 Brodiels cairn, xii. Aberdeen, 264 Broich water and house, ?iiL Stirling, 265, 267 Bromland house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 Bronach bum, xiv. Inverness, 419 Brony water, ziL Aberdeen, 900 Broom, skirmish at, iv. Dumfiries, 248 Broom isle, xiii Elgin, 64 Broom loch, x. Perth, 639, 996 Broom loch and water, xiT. Ross, 72, 74 ■ Broom of Moy >illage, xiii Elgin, 226 Broomage, improTements at, yiiL Stirling, 366 Broomhall house, ix. Fife, 824, 856 Broomhill loch, iT. Dumfiies, 379 Broomhill house, Ti Lanark,733^quan7, 724, 726 Broomholme property, &c. iv. Dumfiies, 416,420,421 Broomhouse, ii Berwick, 267, 270 — ^pa- per mill, &c. 271, Haddington, 230 Broomhouse village, vi. Lanark, 652 Broomlee plantations, iii. Peebles, 165 Broomley property, xL Forfar, 123 Broomrig house, iv. Uumfiies, 560 Broomylees hills, iii. Peebles, 135— quar- ry, 136 Brora cave, xv. Sutherland, 150 — colliery, 152— loch, 149, 150— strath, 149— wa- ter, 46, 48, 151, 160,215,217 Brora, geological phenomena at, xiv. In- verness, 5 Brother loch, \iL Renfrew, 34, 516 Brotherton house, xi. Kincardine, 53 Brothock water, xL For&r, 74, 75, 490, 493 Brough, fort at, xv. Shetland, 25 Brough Dunnet fisheries, xv. Caithness, 37 — ^harbour, 46 Brough of Delting, xv. Shetland, 57 Brough of Cuppasetter, xv. Shetland, 83 Brough ton bum, iii. Peebles, 79 — ^place, 88— village, 89, 93 Broughton, Olenholm, and Kilbucho, united parishes of, iii. Peebles, 78 Broughtonhope hill, iii. Peebles, 79 Broughty, chapel at, xi. For&r, 54 1—* castle, 547 Broughty ferry, village and quoad mcra parish of, xi. Forfar, 5, 40, 549, 552, 554 Brouland, wart of^ xv. Shetland, 1 1 1 Brow, spring at, iv. Dumfries, 219 Brow 1^ mine, vi. Lanark, 336 Browhouses, bay o^ iv. Dumfries, 262— village, 270 Brown head, v. Bute, 40, 41 Brown hiU, xiii Banff, 79 Brown loch, v. Ayr, 159, 766 Brown Carrick hills, v. Ayr, 2, 30, 349 Brown Muir hill, v. Ayr, 576 — iv, Dum- fries, 290 Brownie^ I^y^ xi Kincardine, 25 Brownlee coUieriea, vi Lanark, 56S Brownrig house, vi. Lanark, 548 Brown'ft hill, ii Haddii^ton, 1 Brownside fidls, vii Redrew, 317 — quar- ry, 320 Broxburn village, ii Linlithgow, 87 Broxburn water, ii Haddington, 71, 225 Broxmouth park, ii Haddington, 71, 77, 79,80 Broxlaw hill, iii Roxburgh, 303 Bruach na fiiaian, spring at, xiv. Inver- ness, 380 Bruan, mission of, xv. Caithness, 108, 162 Bruar, falls o^ x. Perth, 560 Brocels acres, iv. Dumfiies, 248 Bruce^ castle, viii Stirlii^ 323 BrucelB how, xii Aberdeen, 659 Brucefield hill, &c xii Aberdeen, 178, 624 . Brucefield collieries, viii Clacknuuinaii, 128— house, 127 Brucefield mills, ix. Fife, 890 — nUage, 874 Brucehaven village and harbour, iz. Fife, 230, 824, 896 Bruiach loch, xiv. Inverness, 491 Brundin ]aws,.iii Roxburgh, 255 Brunstane bum, i Edinburgh, 382 — ca*- tle,36— houw, 11 Brunthill, the, ii Haddington, 71 Bruntiburn, camp at, ii Berwick, 72-~ plantations, 81 — quarry, 66 Brunton, name of^ ii Berwick, 247 Brunton castle, ix. Fife, 665 — village, 651 Bruntwood loch, v. Ayr, 181 Brux house, &c. xii Aberdeen, 411, 444, 448 Bmxie, camp at, xii Aberdeen, 147 Bruxie hill, xi Kincardine, 154, 310 Brydeston mill, xi Forfar, 673 Brydieston, xi Forfar, 685 Buachaille rock, vii. ArjQrle, 352 BuachaiUe Etive hills, vu. Argyle, 471 Buarblach farm, xiv. Invemess, 141 Buscleuch, annexed parish of^ iii Selkirk, 54, 65 — castle and chapel, 66, 67 Buchan, district of, xii Aberdeen, 799— Agricuitiuul AsaDciation, 724, 866 Buchanan, parish of, viii Stirling, 89 — house, ib. 92, Dunbarton, 212 Buchanan^s monument, viii Stirling, 66 Buchanhaven village, xii Aberdeen, 370 BuchannesB head and lighthouse, xii Aberdeen, 345, 382 Buchanty chapel, Ac. x. Perth, 251, 253, 255 Buchany village, x. Perth, 1240 Bucharin castle, xiii. Banff, 364 Buchlyvie village and quocut aacra parish, viii. Stirling, 1 1 1 Bucholie castle, xv. Caithness, 25 Bucbragie house, remains at, xiii Ban£ 225 GENERAL INDEX. XXV Buck well, vi. Lanark, 846 Bucket burn, xii. Aberdeen, 436, 530 Buckhaven village and hitfbour, ix. Fife, 394, 396, 398, 400, 403 Buckholmaide village, iii. Roxburgh, 66, 67 Buckie bum, xii. Aberdeen, 492 Buckie bum, xiii Ban^ 250^hapel, 265— lodge, 253,260— village, 247, 260 Buckie glen, x. Perth, 344 Buckie bum, viii. Stirling, 323 Buck Inch isle, vii. ReaSew, 5 Buckhind bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 5 Bucklerhold tower, iv. Dumfries, 444 Bucklyvie village, ix. Fife, 281 Buckljvie village and quoad aacra parish, viii. Stirling, 270 Buddo rock, ix. Fife, 451 Bae Inch isle, viii. Dunbarton, 233 Buie water, viL Ai^le, 479 Buie loch, xv. SntherUmd, 17 Biiilg loch, xiil Banff, 298 Buitterlach burial ground, xiii. Banff, 133 Buittle parish, iv. Kirkcudbright, 200 — castle, 203 Bull loch, V. Bute, 99 Bullers Buchan village, xii. Aberdeen, 979 Bullet Knowe, the, viii Stirling, 148 Bullion hleachfieldi, xi. Forfiir, 578 Bullion well, ii. Linlithgow, 110 Bui vicar bay, vii Argyle, 73 Bunachton loch, xiv. Inverness, 516 Bunawe iron works, vii Argyle, 100, 519, 520 Bunchrew house, xiv. Invemess, 460 Bundalloch, xiv. Ross, 178 Buness house, xv. Shetland, 40-^chrome quarries, 147 Bun Iligh village, xv. Sutherland, 134 Bunker's hill, i. Edinburgh, 616, 619 Bunkle barony, ii Berwick, 118— edge, 115— wood, 117 Bunkle and Preston, united parishes o^ ii. Berwick, 115 Bunloit fort, xiv. Invemess, 45 Bunman hill, iv. Wigton, 201 Bunnach, limestone at, v. Ayr, 814 Bunroy, school at, xiv. Invemess, 511 Bunty village, xii Aberdeen, 1048 Bunzeon house, ix. Fife, 568 Burdiehouse bum, i Edinbuigh, 109— quarries, 2, 20 Burdyards house, xiii. Elgin, 162 Burg head, vii. Ajrgyle, 299 Burg hill, xi Forfar, 129 Burgar house, xv. Orkney, 202 Burgh of Hempriggs, xv. Caithness, 118 Burghead, remains at, xiii Elgin, 36 — village, 38, 40 Burgie castle, xiii. Elgin, 239, 242, 248— remains found at, 249— trees at, 244 Burican mill, v. Bute, 56 Burkle hill, xi. Forfar, 129 Burleigh castle, ix. Kmross, 59 VOL. XV. Burleigh^ hole, ix. Kinross, 60 Bum colliery, v. Ayr, 439 Bum of Boyne, xiii Banff, 1 Bum of Kilry district, xi. Forfer, 432 Bum house, &c. xi. Kincardine, 26, 73, 89, 112,114,119 Bum well, vi Lanark, 420 Bum colliery, ii Linlithgow, 71 Bumbank hiurbour and village, xi. Kin- cardine, 196, 208 Bumbank water, x. Perth, 1248 Bumbrae well, vi Lanark, 400 Bumcleugh embankments, iv. Dumfries, 409 Burness house, xv. Orkney, 68— annexed parish, 85— loch, 118, Bumetland, moat at, vi Lanark, 362 Bumfoot valley, iv. Dumfries, 274 — house, 431 Bumfoot port, iv. Kirkcudbright, 361 Bnmfoot collieries, &c. ii. Linlithgow, 58, 63 Bumfoot mills, x. Perth, 334 Bumfoot bleachfield, vii. Renfrew, 102 Bumfoot of Oargunnock, viii Stirling, 49 Bumfoot of Luce harbour, iv. Wigton, 66 Bumhaven village, xii. Aberdeen, 381, 709 Bumhead house, v. Ayr, 132 — Roman road at, 315 Bumhead village, iv. Dumfries, 508 Bumhead, coins found at, vi Lanark, 581 Bumhead, spring at, viii. Stirling, 147 Bumhouse village, v. Ayr, 593 Bumhouse house, i Edinburgh, 417 Burnmouth quarries, ii Berwick, 132-^ viUage, 131, 143 Bumoch water, v. Ayr, 106 Bums* monument, Ayr, v. Ayr, 16, 26— Edinburgh, i Edinburgh, 655 Bumside, tumulus at, xii Aberdeen, 993 Bumside house, xiii. Banff, 255 Bumside village, ix. Fife, 106, 109 Bumside hill, xi For&r,597 — house, 608 —village, 608 Bumside quarry, ii Haddington, 205 Bumside village, xi. Kincardine, 285, 292 Bumside village, xiii Nairn, 4 Bumswark hill, iv. Dumfries, 204, 207, 290— camps, &.c. 197, 292— ironstone at, 196 Bumtisland parish, ix. Fife, 404— town, 404,411,418 Bumturk quarries, ix. Fife, 105 Bumweil lull, v. Ayr, 21 Burra isles, xv. Shetland, 8 Burrafrith, xv. Shetland, 36, 38— isle, 38 Burraness, xv. Shetland, 24 — fort on, 25, 27 Burravoe, xv. Shetland, 83 — remains at, 57 Burray isle, xv. Orkney, 191 Burreldales, remains at, xiii Banff, 162 Burrelton village, x. Perth, 1171 Bunion castle, xv. Orknev, 105 d XXVI GENERAL INDEX. Burron hill, camp at, iv. Dumfries, 445 Burrow head, xv. Orknej-, 157 Burrowhcad, cliffi at, iv. Wigton, 53 Busby moor, v. Ayr, 196 Busby village and factories, vL Lanark, 599, 605, 893 Busby factory, vii. Renfrew, 523 Bush house, i. Edinbuigh, 317 Bush park,moat at, iv. Kirkcudbright, 298 Bush bum, viii. Stirling, 139 Bushy aik lane, vii. Renfrew, 504 Bushy berry hill, vi. Lanark, 354, 357, 362 Bushy bield,the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 379 Bushy hill village, vi. Lanark, 431 Buss, camp at, xii. Aberdeen, 286 Busta house, &c. xv. Shetland, 57 But of Lewis, xiv. Inverness, 159, Rosa, 120 Bute isle, v. Bute, 82, 95 — farmers* so- ciety, 91, 108 Buteland, remains at, L Edinburgh, 547 — property of, 549 Buteshire, observations on, v. Bute, 118 Buthland bum, viiL Dunbarton, 173 Butter well, vii. Renfrew, 315 Butterston loch, x. Perth, 673 Butts, battle of the, vl Lanark, 109 Butts of Renfrew, vii Renfrew, 17 Byre bum, iv. Dumfries, 418— collieries, 486 Bjrrecleugh, cairn at, ii Berwick, 94 Byrehope burn, i. Edinbuigh, 404 Bvreshill, monument on, ii. Haddington, 141 Byset water, xii. Aberdeen, 303 Caaf water, v. Ayr, 193, 212, 812 Caanlochan glen, xiv. Ross, 24 Ca an Righ, tradition regarding, xiv. Ross, 24 Cabrach parish, xiii. Banff, 196 Cachelrigh hill, ii. Linlithgow, 36 Cadboll propertv, xiv. Ross, 447 — castle, 361 Caddam village, x. Perth, 1147 Caddel bum, v. Ayr, 193 Cadden, camp at, xii. Aberdeen, 733 Cadden castle, xi. Kincardine, 314 Cadder parish, vi. Lanark, 398, 933— pro- perty, house, &c. 407 — village, 408 — water, 302 Cadder house, viii. Stirling, 234 Cademuir castle, iii. Peebles, 115 — hill, 9 Cadon water, i. Edinburgh, 404 Cadzow bum, vi. Lanark, 255 — castle and property, ib. 267, 269 Caen, spring at, xv. Sutherland, 138 Caerbantorgium,fortof, iv. Kirkcudbright, 19 Caerdean, camp at, x. Perth, 235 Caerketan hill, i. Edinburgh, 1 08 Caerlanrig chapel, &c. iii. Roxburgh, 411, 432, 437 Caerlaverock parish, iv. Dumfries, 349 —castle, 351 Caerwinning hill, v. Ayr, 211— camp on, 219 Caileoch isle, viii. Stirling, 89, 90 Cailleach head, xiv. Ron, 74 Caillevar hill, xii Aberdeen, 440, 4BQ, 487 Caillich Vearor stone, vii. Argyle, 105 Cailm loch, xv. Caithness, 15 Cainail glen, vii Argyle, 278, 279 Caiplich moss, xiv. Inverness, 40^cainw at, 14 Caiplie, remains .found at, ix. Fife, 976 Cairmaneam hill, xL Kincardine, 24 Caim hiU, xii. Aberdeen, 302, 728, 732 Cairn hill, iv. Dumfries, 198 Caim hills, i. Edinbur^^ 356 Caim hiU, iv. Wigton, 201 Caim house, iv. Wigton, 1 04 Caim water, iv. Dumfries, 331, 337 — Kirkcudbright, 231, 265, 267 Caim of Dolt hill, iv. Wigton, 201 Caim of Ord hill, xiii. BaniS, 5 Caimachath, xiv. Ross, 354 Caimaig water and strath, xv. Sutherland, 23 Caimakay hill, xiii. Banff, 111, 123 Caimapple hill, ii. Linlithgow, 35, 1<50 Caim Axe, xiv. Inverness, 15 Caim-a-vain, ix. Kinross, 60 Cairaaveran, xiL Aberdeen, 499 Caimbarrow, property o^ xiii Banff, 206 Caimbeddie, ruins at, x. Perth, 873 Cairo Bran, xv. Sutherland, 191 Caimbroe house, vi. Lanark, 784 Caimbrook, rocks at, iv. Wigton, 1 04, 1 05 Cairabulg castle, xii. Aberdeen, 294 — village, 295, 296 Caimbulg, remains on, vii. Argyle, 342 Cairnburgh isle, vii. Argyle, 340 Caimchallein, vii. Argyle, 68 Caimchedly, xii. Aberdeen, 331 Caimchester camp, ii. Berwick, 1 35 Caimchunaig hill, xiv. Ross, 404 Caimcockle, tumulus at, vi. Lanark, 734 Caimcoinneag hill, xiv. Ross, 262 Caimconan hill, xi. ForfSu', 491 CaimcoulUe, remains at, xii. Aberdeen, 1122 Cairo cubie, springs at, ix. Fife, 828 Cairodow point, viii Dunbarton, 159 Cairoess house, xii. Aberdeen, 224 Cairoey hill, vi. Lanark, 581 Cairoeyhill, village of, ix. Fife, 710, 714 Cairofield house, xiii. Banff, 253, 255 Cairafield, remains at, iv. Wigton, 15 Cairogall, remains foimd at, xii. Aberdeen, 354 — quarry, 860-^improvements at, 865 Cairogarroch bay, iv. Wigton, 201 Cairo Oeddes, x. Perth, 888 Cairngillun hill, v. Avr, 746 Cairogorm hill, xiii. Banff, 125, 296, 298, Elgin, 92, 137 Cairn Greg, xi. Forfar, 546 Cairo Oregor, xiv. Inverness, 515 GENERAL INDEX. XXVU Cairngreesie property, xi. Kincardine, 260 Cairogryffe hills, vi Lanark, 536 Caimharrow hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 314, 374 Caimhill house, v. Ayr, 765 Caimhill property, xi Kincardine, 260 Cairnholy, iv. Kirkcudbri|^t, 333, 384 Caimie parish, xii. Aberdeen, 1017 CaimiehiU village, x. Perth, 442 Caimie hills, ix. Fife, 536--houBe, 8, 326 Cairninuag, ruins at, xv. Sutherland, 191 Cairn Irenan, xiv. Ross, 63 Caimkinnow hill, iv. Dumfries, 500 Caimmoneam hill, xi. Kincardine, 170 Caimmore, xii. Aberdeen, 526, 1061, 1072 Caimmore, xiii. Banff, 206 Cairnmore, x. Perth, 675 Cairnmounteam, xi. Kincardine, 237 Cairnmuir house, x. Perth, 129 Caimnacumhue, xii. Aberdeen, 050 Caimocay hills, xiii Banff, 123 Cairno*mount hills, xi Kincardine, 24, 231 Caimorie school, xii Aberdeen, 974 Caimpapple hill,ii Linlithgow, 35, 150 Caimpat hill, iv. Wigton, 130, 142 Caimryan village, iv. Wigton, 92 Cairns castle, i Edinbuigh, 370 Cairns plantations, vi lianark, 437 Caimsilioch, vi Lanark, 734 Caimsmuir hill, v. Ayr, 309, iv. Kirk- cudbri^t, 118, 274,314— house, 134 Caimtiible hill, v. Ayr, 148, vi. Lanark, 478, 479, 498, 953 Caimtaggart hill, xii. Aberdeen, 773 Caimton property, xi. Kincardine, 325— remains at, 335 CaimtouU hill, xii Aberdeen, 647 Cairnty plantations, xiii Banff, 368 Caimwilliam hill, xii Aberdeen, 459, 486 Cairn WoehiU, x. Perth, 328 Caimyaran, iv. Wigton, 86 Cairston, improvements at, xv. Orkney, 35 — bum, 47 Caistal a Brebider, xiv. Inverness, 188 Caistal Bhuirdh, xiv. Inverness, 188 Caistal Eilen, xiv. Inverness, 188 Caistal Fionlach, xiii. Nairn, 1 Caistal Uistein, xiv. Inverness, 258 Caitha village, i Edinburgh, 422 Caithness Agricultural Association, xv. Caithness, 171 Caithness-shire, observations on, xv..Caith- ness, 178 Caitloch, lead mine at, iv. Dumfiiee, 334 Caitnish falls, vii. Aigyle, 89 Cakemoor house, &c. i. Edinburgh, 192, 193 Calair water, x. Perth, 346 Calart hill, xiii Elgin, 140 Calcamie quarry, ix. Kinross, 5 Calcots school, xiii Elgin, 32 Calda house, xv. Sutherland, 111 Calder, see Cawdor Calder loch and castle, xv. Caithness, 69, 72 Calder house and wood, i. Edinburgh, 357, 361, 371 Calder. East, village, i Edinburgh, 435, 445 Calder, Mid, parish, i Edinburgh, 356— village, 357, 375 Calder, West, parish, i Edinburgh, 304 — viUage, 307, 308 Calder water, xiv. Inverness, 65 Calder Braichlich property, xiv. Inverness, 388 Calder glen, vi. Lanark, 887 — ironworks, collieries, &c. 160, 243, 636, 644, 648, 658 Calder or Rotten Calder water, vi Lanark, 242, 315, 416, 419, 443, 444, 445, 789, 879, 944 Calder water. North, vi Lanark, 642, 766, 771,944 Calder water. South, vi. Lanark, 608, 766, 771, 948 Calder water, vu, Renfrew, 82, 538 Calderbauk house, vi. Lanark, 319 Calderbraes, ironstone at, vi Lanark, 775 Caldergrove house, vi. Lsmark, 431 Calderhall house, i Edinburgh, 442 Calderhaugh candleworks, vii Renfrew, 103 Calders goe, xv. Caithness, 1 1 8 Calderside colliery, vi Lanark, 316 Calderwood, spring at, vi. Lanark, 316 — house, 879, 892 Caldhame &ctories, xi. Kincardine, 302» 303, 305 Caldra house, &c. ii Berwick, 225, 227 Caldron linn, the, x. Perth, 581, 1018 Caldronlee limeworks, iv, Dumfries, 277, 284 Caldstane slap, the, i Edinburgh, 357, iii Peebles, 162 Caldwell house, &c. v. Ayr, 289, 576, 584, vii Renfrew, 322 Caledonian canal, xiv. Inverness, 9, 25^ 54,60,118,119,122,124,504 Caledonian forest, xii Aberdeen, 1052 Caledonian hunt, v. Ayr, 47 Calf sound, xv. Orkney, 158 Calf of Eday isle, xv, Orkney, 158 Calgarry castle, vii. Argyle, 342 Callader loch, xii. Aberdeen, 648 Callander, parish of, x. Perth, 349 — castle, 355— craig, 350, 351— vUlage, 354, 357 -house, viii Stirling, 5, 7, 11, 12 Callaw hope, iii. Roxburgh, 191 Callends bum, iii. Peebles, 141— hill, 137 Calleroish, remains at, xiv. Ross, 153 — school, 153, 155 Callievar hill, xii Aberdeen, 440, 486, 487 Callirni'b hill, x. Perth, 489 Cally house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 297 Calrossie house, xiv. Ross, 54 Calton hill, i Edinburgh, 616, 617, 654 XXVIU GENERAL INDEX. Calva loch, xv. Sutherland, 120 Calve isle, vii. Aigyle, 354 Cam loch, xv. Sutherland, 107 Cambie water, ix. Fife, 112 Cambus village, viii. Clackmannan, 42, 44— distillery, 49 Cambusbaron village, vi\i. Stirling, 333— remains at, 322, 323 Cambuacurry hill, xiv. Roes, 434-- bay, 435 Cambuskenneth abbey, viii. Stirling, 423 Cambuskethan mill, v. Ayr, 549, 550 Cambualang parish, vi Lanark, 41 6 — col- lieries, 420 Cambusmichael, see St Martinli Cambusmore house, x. Perth, 352 Cambusnaglass bay, viii. Dnnbarton, 95 Cambusnethan parish, vi. Lanark, 608 — property, 6 1 3--hou8e,6 1 5 — priory, 957 Cambustane hill, xi Forfiur, 488 Cambus Wallace house, vi. Lanark, 364 Camelon village, viii. Stirling, 4, 18, 23 — remains at, 1 1 Cameron property, viii. Dunbarton, 159 Cameron parish, ix. Fife, 304 Cameron hill, coal at, vi. Lanark, 881 Cameron, cairn at, viii. Stirling, 106 Cameron bridge distillery, ix. Fife, 677 Camfield, the, xii. Aberdeen, 463 Camiestane, battle of, xii. Aberdeen, 659 Camieston plantations, iii. Roxburgh, 108 Camilla house, loch, and wftter, ix. Fife, 148, 250 Camisendun bay, xv. Sutherland, 87 Camis Eskan property, &c. viii. Dunbar- ton, 84, 87, 90 Camistinavaig bay, xiv. Inverness, 219 Camlachie bum, vi. Lanark, 102 Camlarg colliery, v. Ayr, 312 Cammachmore property, &c. xi. Kincar- dine, 245, 260 Cammaloun quarry, xii. Aberdeen, 317 Cammo house, i. Edinburgh, 597 Cammusmore bay, xiv. Inverness, 240 Camp Ochiltree, v. Ayr, 105 Camp castle, Aberlemno, xi. For&r, 632 Camp castle, Craigie, v. Ayr, 765 Camp castle, Hoberton, iii. Roxburgh, 91 Camp castle Turin, xi. Forfar, 606 Camp &rm, the, vi. Lanark, 651 Camp hill, Cathcart, \ii. Renfrew, 502 Camp hill, Dabry, v. Ayr, 220 Camp hill, Lumphanan, xiL Aberdeen, 1088 Camp hill, Yetholm, iii. Roxbiu^, 163 Camphouse, remains at, iv. Dumfries, 266 Camp Know, Blantyre, vi. Lanark, 321 Campmuir, Kettins, xi. Forfiwr, 643 Camp muir, Langton, ii. Berwick, 238 Camp's back hiU, ix. Fife, 690, 697, 705 Camps head, spring at, vi. Lanark, 329 Camp stone,- Kilmadock, x. Perth, 1231 Camptown head, remainH at, ii. Had- dington, 50 Camptown, Jedburgh, iii. Roxbui^gh, 12 Campbell castle, viii. Clackmannan^ 78y 103 CampbeU'a cairns, xiii Elgin, 68 Campbelton parish, vlL Argyle, 453 — bay, 455— town, 464 Campbelton bay, xiv. Inverness, 462^— viUage, 377, 465, 476 Campend of Newton, L Edinburgh, 569 Camperdown house, &c xi. For&r, 576, 577 Campie, see Campsie Cample bum, iv. Dumfries, 78, 91, 93 Campsaik bay, viii. Dunbarton, 110—- house, &c. 113, 123— village, 126 Campsey linn, x. Perth, 1168 Campsie paridi of, viii. Stirling, 234 Campsie alum works, vi. Lanark, 166, viii. Stirling, 256 Campsie glens, viii Stirling, 235 Campsie hills, viii. Dunbarton, 36, 70, 74, vi. Lanaric, 105, 721, viii. Stirling, 38, 60, 234, 235, 239 Camsemy &lls, x. Perth, 759 Camster nill, xv. Caithness, 119 Camstraddan bay, viii Dunbarton, 158— house, 233— quarry, 164, 236 Camus stone, the, L Edinburgh, 119 Camus nagaul, bay, xiv. Invemen, 1 1& Camustane hill, &c xL Forfiu-, 486 Camuston, tradition regarding, xi. Kincai^ dine, 282 Cauda craig house, xii. Aberdeen, 546 Cander water, vi Lanark, 469, 470, 720, 721 Canderside colliery, vi. Lanark, 723 Candle moss, viii. Stirling, 275 Candlestick cave, xiv. Inverness, 325 Candren well, vii Renfrew, 147 Candy bum, vi. Lanark, 356, 848 Candvbank, camp at, vi. Lanark, 362 Canisbay parish, xv. Caithness, 21— house, 27 Canna isle, xiv. Inverness, 145, 149, 150 — house, 152 Cannachy bridge inn, xi Forfar, 624 Cannar water, vi. Lanark, 31 Cannich glen and water, xiv. Inverness, 363, 487 Cannisb hill, xv. Sutherland, 105 Cannon loch, xii. Aberdeen, 775 Canny water, xi Kincardine, 325 Canongate, the, i Edinburgh, 661 -.- church, 663 — tolbooth, 730 — work- house, 746 Canonbie parish, iv. Dumfries, 483 Canterland quarry, xi. Kincardine, 284 Cantlay hill, xi. Kincardine, 250 Cantly farm, xiii. Banff, 217 Cantray house and property, xiv. Inver^ ness, 453, 456 — fossil remains at, 38Q Cant's kirk, xii Aberdeen, 397 Canty bay, ii. Haddington, 318 Caol loch, vii Argyle, 302 Caolas Uist, the, xiv. Inverness, 155 Caolchum castle, vii. Argyle, 86, 87 GENERAL INDEX. XXIX Caolisport loch, vii. Argyle, 257, 259 Cape house, xiii. Banff, 133 Capehope water, iii. Roxburgh, 189, 191 Capel fell, iii Selkirk, 60 Capelochj castle, ruins of, ix. Fife, 976 Capenoch hill, iv. Dumfries, 460 — house, &c. 466, 467 Cape Wrath lighthouse, &c. xy. Suther- land, 84, 85, 86, 94 Caplerig house, vii. Renfrew, 521 Caplet hill, vii. Renfrew, 137 Capolm water, iii. Peebles, 80 Capon tree, iii Roxburgh, 5 Capon craig gaw, v. Ayr, 437, 442 Cappel hill, xi. Forfar, 451 Cappuck, remains found at, iii Rox- burgh, 261 Caprington collieries, v. Ayr, 606— caatle, 609 Captain head, ii. Haddington, 50 Captain \s cairn, vi Lanark, 485 Capul mount, xi. Forfar, 191 Caputh parish, x. Perth, 670— village, 677 Cara isle, viL Argyle, 379, 395 Caracrom stone, xiv. Inverness, 169 Carald^s stone, xi. Forfetr, 518 Carberry hill, i. Edinburgh, 267— house, 278 Carberry, remains at, ix. Fife, 134 Carbeth house, viii Stirling, 66, 82 — loch, 73 Carbeth Guthrie, viii. Stirling, 72— house, 82 Carbrook house, viii. Stirling, 382 Carbuddo district, xi. Forfiir, 469— camp at, 236— house, 470 Cardan's well, ix. Fife, 40 Cardean, remains at, &c. ix. Fife, 673, 679 Carden den, ix. Fife, 167 Carderroch property, vi. Lanark, 405 Cardon hill, iii. Peebles, 79 Cardonald house, vii. Renfrew, 195 Cardonncas castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 378 —house, 382 Cardrona house and property, iiL Peebles, 42,44 Cardross parish, viii. Dunbarton, 83 Cardross house, x. Perth, 1108 Cardroes plantations, viii. Stirling, 266 Careston parish, xi. For&r, 5]8--bridge, 202— castle, 527, 532 Carfin collieries, vi Lanark, 774— house, 784 Carfrae, camp at, ii Haddington, 96 Cargen house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 225— water, 224, 234,287 Cargen holm house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 CargiU parish, x. Perth, 1 167 Carinish chapel, xiv. Inverness, 169, 178, 179 Carity water, xi Forfer, 160, 165 Carlaverock, rocks at, ii. Haddington, 283 Carleith, remains at, viii. Dunbaurton, 20 Carlenrig churchyard, iv. Dumfries^ 421 Carleton bay, v. Ayr, 395— castle, 529 Carleton house, ix. Fife, 326 Carline^s cairn hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 274 Carlin Kist stone, xiii Banff, 161 Carlin Tooth, iii. Roxburgh, 2 Carlinwark house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 161 —loch, 147 Carlogie house, xii Aberdeen, 1056 Carlops collieries, &c. iii Peebles, 155--* village, 158, 162 Carlowrie gardens, i Edinburgh, 136 Carloway fort, xiv. Ross, 153, 163— dis- trict, 167 Carlows linn, iii. Peebles, 59 Carlsruth point, iv. Wigton, 24 Carlton fell, iv. Wigton, 38 Carluke parish, vi Lanark, 563 — col- lieries, 590 — orchards, 589 — village, 587, 591 Carlung property, v, Ayr, 255 Carlv hiU, iii. Iloxburgh, 441^-camp ou, 443 Carmacoup property, vi Lanark, 487 Carman hill, viii Dunbarton, 84 Carmel water, V. Ayr, 541, 769 Carmelite church, Queensferry, ii. Lin- lithgow, 6 Carmelite convent, Jedburgh, iii Rox- burgh, 10 Carmelite convent, Linlithgow, ii Lin* lithgow, 175 Carmelite monastery, Bantf, xiii Banfi^ 326 Carmelite monastery, Dunbar, ii. Had- dington, 79 Carmelite monastery, Edinburgh, i Edin- burgh, 658 Carmelite monastery, Fullarton, v. Ayr, 67« Carmelite monastery, Perth, x. Perth, 64 Carmichael parish, vi Lanark, 517 — foundery, 631— hiU, 518, 520— house, 522, 526 Carmount hill and moor, xi. Kincardine, 212,213,217 Carmunnock parish, vi. Lanark, 597-— viUage, ib. 605 Carmyle ford, vi Lanark, 425 — village, 652 Carmylie parish, xi For&r, 350— hill, 358— well, 352 Cama isle, vii Argyle, 121, 165 Camabattan looh, xiv. Inverness, 491 Camac fort, x. Perth, 810 Cam-armairee hUI, x. Perth, 529 Cam-a*Mhadi cave, xv. Sutherland, 67 Caman water, vii Aigyle, 479 Cama na croiche, xiv. Ross, 271 Cama nam Fiann, xiv. Ross, 271 Camannock, cairn at, v. Ayr, 316 Camassary castle, vii. Aigyle, 555 Cambroe bridge, vi Lanark, 636 — col- lieries, 775 — ironworks, 647, 658 Carndearg hill, x. Perth, 529 Caraduif brae, v. Ayr, 734 XXX GENERAL INDEX. Caradl hill, u. Fife, 690, 691*camp on, 697 Carnell well and chapel, v. Ayr, 655 Carnlia loch, xt. Caithnen, 123 Carnliath hill, x. Perth, 559 Carnmacheeaog cairn, viii Dunbarton, 161 Cam na caillich, viL Aigyle, 170 Camnamgabhar hill, x. Perth, 559 Camock parish, ix. Fife, 690— house, 706 —quarries, 693— tower and cross, 705 —village, 692, 706, 710 Camock house, vL Lanark, 773 Camock castle, &c viii. Stirling, 314, 323 —water, 62 Camousie house, xiiL Banff, 88 Carnoustie, battle at, xL Foifiir, 631— camp at, 660— village and quoad 9.iv. Iiivmie^, -JOO Castie bay, iv. Wipon, 1 a-> Cattjecary cattle and bouse, TiiL Duo- barton, 138— camp, 141- ' 137— tower, Stirling, 12 CattJeciaig of Dunakeiilh, xiv. Rosa, 26 Cattlerraig of Kirkonl hoiue, iiL Peeblei^ 127, 129 Cattlecraig of TiUicoultry, fort on. TiiL Clackmannan, 71 Catttecmig of Wett Colder, camp on, L Edinburgh, 30G Castlecrofta of Dahnellington, T. Ayr,S16 Castledykea, remains at, It. Dumfiiea, 10 Cattledykea, Koman mad at, vL Imttlirk, 554 CattlelUm water, iv. Dumtrii^a, 331 CastldiaTen,niingoftowerBt,ii. Fife.947 Cattlehill of Abeinethy, x. Perth, 851 Cattlehill of Ardneill, t. Ayr, 257 CasllehiU of Ardroaun, t. Ayr, 194 Cattlehill of Ayr house, v. Ayr, 4, 16 CastiehiU of BanS; liiL Banff, 31 Cattlehill of Biraia, xiiL Elgm, St CsatlehiU of Boath, liii. Nairn, 13 CastiehiU o£ Boydstoo, v. Ayr. 257 Castlehill of CardrosB, viiL Dunbarton,87 CastldiillofCBrgilI.li. Perth, 11611 CattlehiU of Carluke, vL Lanark, 581- collieries and ironworks, 567, 570, 59B, 591 Caitlehill of Chinie, x. Perth, 1024 Caitlehill of Crimond, xii. Aberdeen, 708 Cattlehill of Cullen, xiii. Banff, 3->-i CastiehiU of Culrosg, i. Perth, 600 CastiehiU of Cupar, ii. Fife, 3 CastiehiU of Dulserf, vL Lanark. 734 Cattlehill of Durris, xi. Kincardine, 173 CastiehiU of Edinburgh, i, EdinburRh. 616 CastiehiU of Forgnndennr, x. Perth, 963 CastiehiU of Forrea.xiiL'Klgin. 162 CastiehiU of Olenhesd, v. Avr, 2.',7 CastiehiU of Hamilton, vi. Unarh. 2.15 CattlebiUrflnchture.x. Perth. 11.12 CastiehiU of InTemea, IJT. InTemeas. 16, 17 CutlehiU of Kilbride, v. Ayr, 257 CastiehiU of KiU>ride, vL Lanark, 890 CastiehiU of Kilpatrick, viiL DunbarUm, 37, 38, 47 Cattlehill of Kintore, xii. Aberdeen, 6S9 CastiehiU of Lanark, tL Lanark, 10, 13 CastiehiU of Largs, t. Ayr, BOO CattlduU of Lochmaben, it. Dumftiea, 383 XXXll aSHBBAL INDBZ. CtuUehill of Ranfr«ir, vii. Ranfrew, 13 CMtlehiUof St Feisu&,iU. Aberdeen, 1S6 CaaUriiiU at St Siniam, -viii. Stirliug, 322 CscttdiiU of Slniiunnn, viii. StiiUng, 374 CtutlehiU of Senniill, v. Ayr, 257, 2SB CaatUhill of StevenEton, *. Ayr, 4'^, 4fiS CoUlehill of Stirling, TiiL Stirling. 391, M7 CaUlehill of Stiacban, xL Kincardine, 236 CutlefaiU of Symington, v>. l.iiiiwk. ;4— remnina on, 657 Calevcnnan rock, iv. \\'iglon, 131 Catlirth brook, xv. Caithneas, 69 Cat'a cairn, xiv. Roa^ 354 Cal«.Tnl^^ .|uiirrv, liii. StirUng,324, 530 Catslocknow spring, iiL Selkirk, 33 — hilt (;at's Nick, the, i. Edinburgh, 61 9 Caltcr houae. viii. Dunbarton, 215 Cutterlino village, iL Kincardine, 317, 318 Callennilly catDp, xi. Totfiw-, 579 I'atlrino loch, i. Perth, 350 CauldchapeL camp at, vL Lanark, 617 (.'nuldcleugh hill, iiL Roxburgh, 427 (.'uuldrun linn, viii. StirUng, 176 Cauldron loch, iv. Dumfries, 452 Cuuldshiels loch. iii. Selkirk, 14 <.'auniav collierica, iL Linliihgov, 123 Cnusen liiDs. liiL Elgin, 146,149,153— iilla«e, 49 Cau»iF"ol,'ft™ii«a-TO»iiLU'. Ayr, 278 GENERAL INDEX. XXXUl Causeway hill, ii. Linlithgow, 76 Causewayfoot Tillage, ii. Linlithgow, 72 Causewayhead collieries, &c. viii. Stirling, 219,223— viUage, 231 Cauvin'8 hospital, i. Edinburgh, 390, 395 Cava isle, xv. Orkney, 15 Cavens castle and house, iv. Kirkcud- bright, 238 Caverhill, tower on, iii. Peebles, 116 Cavers parish, iil Roxburgh, 425 Cavers Carr house, iii. Roxburgh, 39 Caverton edge hill, iii. Roxburgh, 220, 222 — remains on, 227— village, 232 Cawdor parish, xiii. Nairn, 19 — bum, 21 — castle, ib. — ^remains at, 12 Cawessor bleachiield, viii. Dunbarton, 245 Cawpla bum, vii. Renfrew, 316^och, 308, 316 Cayn loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 Ceannabinn hill, xv. Sutherland, 83 Ceannacoil castle, xii. Aberdeen, 1059 Ceannamhara hill, vii. Ai^le, 196 Ccannard loch, x. Perth, 756 Ceannard strath and water, xiv. Ross, 74 Ceanngarbh head, v. Bute, 83 Ceannloch bum, xiv. Ross, 152 Ceannlochhuchart church, xiv. Ross, 238 Ceannrigh hill, xiv. Ross, 305 Ceathramhgarbh district, xv. Sutherland, 119 Ceesford moor, iii. Roxburgh, 222 — vil- lage, 232 Cellardykes town, ix. Fife, 295, 299, 975, 977, 980 Ceres parish, ix. Fife, 517 — village, 523, 528— bum, 518 Cessford castle, iii. Roxburgh, 146, 224 — bum, &c. 226 Cessnock water, v. Ajnr, 179, 606— iron company, 835 Ceumnacallich hill, v. Bute, 3 ChaiUiach hill, x. Perth, 1077 Chaistal isle, xiv. Inverness, 145 Chalmers^ hospital, xiii. BaniF, 56 Chalmers^ hospital, Edinburgh, i. Edin- burgh, 726 Chance inn, xi. For&r, 243 — village, ix. Fife, 517 Chanlock hills, iv. Dumfries, 500 Channelkirk parish, ii. Berwick, 88 Chanonry point, xiv. Inverness, 382, Ross, 356— cathedral, 351— cross, 353 — town, 15, 354 Chapel of Bothwell collieries, vi. Lanark, 775 Chapel of Congalton, ii. Hadding^, 210 Chapel of Oarioch, xii. Aberdeen, 560 Chapel of Keillor village, xi. Forfiur, 560 Chapel of Kelso, ruins at, iiL Roxbui^h, 308 Chapel of Lauder, plantations at, ii. Bei^ wick, 3 Chapel of Lilliesleaf, tower at, iii. Rox- burgh, 25 Chapel of Tjuron, church at, iv. Dum- ines, 474 VOL,. XV. Chapel bum of Crawford, vi. Lanark, 331 Chapel bum of Dalserf, chapel at, vl L&* nark, 733 Chapel bum of Larbert, viii. Stirling, 342 Chapel Couch, ruins at, viii Dunbiurton, 49 Chapelden, ruins at, xii. Aberdeen, 264 Chapel Dermid, mins of, viiL Dunbarton, 75 Chapel Dockie, ruins of, xi. Fvxn&\«».^'^^ SSSSKAL INDEX. ^ . ^ .. vrtLcuJbright, ^>, . - w A Jui^h, 443 ^, ... ., .U.iiiTvw,362,370 t . v. ^kLntfurdine, 24 \.- ., .. . VOtfitleen, 1092 ^.. . ioiirww. 96 X.*.. *iii. Dunbarton, 38, . VTi.i:,v. Kincardine, 232, 324 <^ MV»Hf. vii. Renfrew, 866 . ^ w..^ .iii. ^itirling, 290 ^v » i^.:«iKM-'<\ vil Renfrew, 286 . V i^v ^''-^ ^ ^ l^anark, 726 ..j^ .» : K »i9^\ xii. Abenlcen, 238 . '.>,«t «ikm\ ill. Roxburgh, 61 ^ .x«k»:i« Lmwtonc at, v. Ayr, 814 .. ..s^;u vvwtlts V. Ayr, 494, 500 . ^•>,^.un^h Umcworks, v. Ayr, 504 . s^vVtu (virish, iv. Dumfries, 77— castle s 5S'.>— hall, 83— limeworks, 79, 83, .«; — pr\»iH>rty , 465 V 'i«kv'i« bum, XV. Caithness, 61 v'.vuJ^i) water, iv. Dumfries, 337 ^'•.vM,»ta,M:hool at, xv. Shetland, 136— voe, lOl V'Uuittyls cave, xiii. Banff, 1 79 Clova house, &c. xii. Aberdeen, 409, 411. 976 i'luva, annexed parish of, xi Forfar, 434— castle, 446— mission, 185— valley, 435 riovenfords Nillage, i. Edinburgh, 423 iMovon hills, xiii. Elgin, 160 iMovcrhill, remains found ut, iii. Peebles, 87 Cloy glen, v. Dute, 4 — water, 7 Cluany loch, xiv. Inverness, 37, 40 Cluden water, iv. Kirkcudbright, 265, 267, Dumfries, 554 — mills, 560, — village, 563 Cluden bank quarry, iv. Dumfries, 555 Cluggy castle, x. Perth, 740 Clumly, improvements at, xv. Orkney, 61 — loch, 46, 51 Clun, birth-j)lace of Sir James Mackin- tosh, xiv. Inverness, 374 Clune cottiigo, xiii. Elgin, 70 Clunc hills, ix. Fife, 690— plantations, 695 Clune, fossil remains at, xiii. Nairn, 8 Clune dam, rocks at, v. Ayr, 744 Clunos valley, xiv. Inverness, 119 Clunio pariMh, x. Perth, 1024— castle, 673, 1024— forest, 898— house, 769— loch, 673, 1024 Cluny parish, xii. Aberdeen, 1018 — water, 648 Cluny house, xiii. Banff, 385 Cluny property, xiii. Elgin. 242 Cluny collieries, ix. Fife, 170 Clunv ca^rtle, xiv. Invenie»s, 418, 421, 427 —bum, 419 Clunv water, xi. Kincardme, ;V25 Chionic loch, xiv. Hot^ \R2, Al^l Cluihh I mm, ix. Fife, 534 Clvbric, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 48, 58, 66, '149 Clyde, falls of, vi. Lanark, 5, 936 Clyde, frith of, m Argyle, 415, 456, 574, 577, V. Ayr, 243, 667, 786, Bute, 83, 9G, viii. Dunbarton, 70, 103, vii. Ren- frew, 57, 406, 409 Clvde ironworks, vi. Lanark, 160, 243, 64 1 , 648, 658 Clyde river, viii. Dunbarton, 15, vi. La- nark, 41, 42, 52, 63, 67, 76, 102, 104, 114, 196, 239,250,253, 315, 329, 341, 342, 354, 375, 416, 419, 444, 498, 517, 519, 535, 536, 548, 549, 564, 635, 641, 669, 719, 721, 766, 771, 806, 807, 810, 869, 942, iii. Peebles, 59, vii. Renfrew, 2,25, 114, *500, 525, 533 Clydesdale coursing club, vii. Renfrew, 389 Clydesdale orchards, vl Lanark, 457, 589, 743 Clyne parish, xv. Sutherland, 149 Clyne house, xiv. Ross, 321 Clynelish farm, xv. Sutherland, 150, 158 Clvne Milton bum, xv. Sutherland, 151 Clyth castle, xv. Caithness, 91— ness, 85 —property, 88, 99 Clvthe castle, xv. Sutherland, 141 Cnoc of Alves, xui. Elgin, 86, 102 Cnoc of Bathgate, ii Linlithgow, 150 Cnoc of Brae Moray, xiii. Elgin, 179 Cnoc of Crieff, x. Perth, 491 Cnoc of Fordyce, xiii. Banff, 179 Cnoc of Formal, xi. Forfar, 636 Cnoc of Gninge, xiii. Banff, 213 Cnoc of Ordiquhill, xiii. Banff, 79, 80 Cnoc of Renfrew, vii. Renfrew, 2, 1 3, 1 7 Cnoc of Tullich, xii. Abenk"en, 774 Cnocantiahhall hill, xiv. Ross, 434 Cnocbain hill, xiv. Itoss, 384 Cnoc Cniggy hill, xv. Sutherland, 171 Cnoccniig hill, iv. Dumfries, 67 Cnoc EldemlH)!! hill, xv. Sutherland, 1 R!» Cnoc Farril hill and fort, xiv. Ross, 245 Cnocfin hill, xv. Sutlierland, 135 Cnocgeorgen hill, v. Ayr, 191, 198 Cnocimy hill, xiv. Ross, 404 Cnock a chath, xv. Sutherland, 62 Cnoclagun hill, xiv. Roas, 435 Cnocmary hill, x. Perth, 491 Cnocmhoir hill, xiv. Inverness, 459 Cnocna)>areibhich hill,xv. Caithuess,l 3,1 5 Cnocnacnamhun caim, xv. Sutherland, 94 Cnocnagillan, xiii. Nairn, 1, 9 Cnocna vie hill, xiv. Ross, 271 Cnocnowton, vi. Lanark, 609 Cnocphail hill, xiv. Inverness. 285 Cnocside hill, v. Ayr, 787 Cnocsleitill hill, xv. Orkney, 13 Cnocurray ca.stle, xv. Orkney. 13 Co chapel and well, iv. Wigton, 208 Coalbog colliery, vii. Renfrew, 359 Coalburn, Cambusnethan, vi. Ljuiark, 6n;; Coalburn, Cumnock, collierv, v. Avr, 314 QBNERAL INDEX. XXXVll Coalha' pottery, v. Ayr, 644 Coalheugh well, xv. Ross, 6 Coalsnaughton colliery, viii. Clackman- nan, 25, 69— village, 73 Coalston bum, ii. Haddington, 2, 271, 272— house, &c. 1, 6 Coalton of Ceres village, ix. Fife, 517 Coalton of Kettle village, ix. Fife, 106, 109 Coalton of Wemyss, ix. Fife, 398, 400 Coaly burn colliery, iii. Peebles, 155 Coaly land colliery, viii. Clackmannan, 22, 25— village, 44 Coat castle, vi. Lanark, 471 Coatbridge village, vi. Lanark, 652 Coatdyke village, vi. Lanark, 652 Coates property, ii. Haddington, 181, 188 Coathill school, vL Lanark, 247 Coats collieries, &c. vi. Lanark, 420, 647, 649— house, 653— villages, 431 Coatsdikc quarry, vi. Lanark, 649 Coatshill, moat on, iv. Dumfries, 122 Coatsmuir, \i. Lanark, 656 Coatt, remains at, iv. Dumfries, 404 Cobairdy house, xii. Aberdeen, 601 Cobbleheugh, remains found at, xL Kin- cardine, 301 Coburty millstone quarry, xii. Aberdeen, 269 Cochney house, vii. Renfrew, 14 Cochno, remains at, viiL Dunbarton, 21 Cochrane house, vii. Renfrew, 198 Cochridgo moss, x. Perth, 898, 906 Cock of Arran hill, v. Bute, 2, 9 Cockaimey house, ix. Fife, 181 Cockbum law, ii. Berwick, 247, 248 Cockbumspath and Old Cambus, united parishes of, ii. Berwick, 290 — tower, 303 —village, 303, 307, 310 Cockenzie chapel, ii. Haddington, 300— House, 293— village and harbour, 284, 289, 297, 299, 300 Cockham water, i. Edinburgh, 403 Cockhill plantations, v. Ayr, 3 Cocklarachy, remains found at, xii. Aber- deen, 299 Cocklaw, ruins of tower at, i. Edinbui^h, 547 Cocklaw bum, vi. Lanark, 848, 854 Cocklaw hill, ii. Berwick, 340, iii. Rox- burgh, 160,444 Cockle bum, i. Edinburgh, 590, 592, ii. Linh'thgow, 92 Cockle hill, viL Renfrew, 7, 13 Cockleroi hill, viii. Dunlmrton, 181, ii Linlithgow, 35, 170, viii. Stirling, 207 Cockmuir, coins found at, xiL Aberdeen, 585 Cockneyfield dyeworks, viii. Dunbarton, 28 Cockpen, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 606 Cockplay well, vi. Lanark, 399 Cock pool castle, iv. Dumfries, 229 Cocks bum, vi. Lanark, 420 Cocks caira, xii. Aberdeen, 1022 Cock$ton, remains found at, xiii. Banff, 97 Coddingham loch, ii. Berwick, 280 Coe water, vii. Aigyle, 231 Coeffin castle, vii. Arg,vie, 241 Cogriebum, lead ore at, iv. DumfHes, 162 —school, 166 Coich water, xii. Aberdeen, 648 Coie bum, xi. Kincardine, 325 Coigach district, xiv. Roes, 74 CoiJa water, v. Ayr, 106 Coilholme wood, v. Ayr, 744, 756 Coil's tomb, v. Ayr, 751 Coilsfield house, v. Ayr, f43, 751, 757 Coiltie water, xiv. Inverness, 37, 39 Coinneag loch, xiv. Ross, 264— mount, 262 Coire loch, xiv. Inverness, 515 Coimaftam loch, xv. Sutherland, 68 Coimanurisken cave, x. Perth, 351 Coiriusg loch, xiv. Inverness, 296, 301 Colbrandspath tower, ii Haddington, 303 Coldbacky hill, xv. Sutherland, 171 Coldchapel moat, vi Lanark, 503 Coldingham parish, ii Berwick, 279 — common, 284— loch, 280 — priory, 282 —village, 287 Coldoch, cave at, x. Perth, 1231 Coldon, coins found at, ix. Kinross, 1 1 Coldran, remains at, xiii Banff, 97 Coldrochie water, x. Perth, 163 Coldstone, see Logie Coldstone Coldstream parish, ii. Berwick 199— town, 208 Cole castle, xv. Sutherland, 1 54 Colfin glen, iv. Wigton, 142 Colgrave sound, xv. Shetland, 24, 82 Colieum house, viii. Stirling, 363 Coligarth district, xv. Orkney, 133^re- mains on, 140 Coliness, xv. Orkney, 140 Colin's isle, vii Renfrew, 115, 117 Colinsburgh village, ix. Fife, 328 Colinshiel colliery, ii. Linlithgow, 154 Colinton parish, i. Edinburgh, 1 07— house, 108, 111, 119— village, 121 Colipol village, vii Argyle, 79 Coll island, vii Argyle,' 198, 199 Coll, cave at, xiv. Roes, 116— water,. 120 Colla frith, xv. Shetland, 71 CoUace parish, x. Perth, 210— village, 214 Collaimie castle, ix. Fife, 209 College close, Falkland, ix. Fife, 937 College hill of Roslin, i Edinburgh, 341 College water, iii. Roxburgh, 462 Collennan quarries, v. Ayr, 668 CoUessie parish, ix. Fife, 21 — village, 30 Collielaw hill, ii Berwick, 91 Colliemore hill, x. Perth, 900 Collieston property, iv. Dumfries, 342 Collin, battle at, x. Perth, 1047 Collin house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 356, 365 Collin village, iv. Dumfries, 32 Collinswell house, ix.. ¥\fe^ ^\t> Co\\\8toTiYvowBe,TUL.Ycstfes.,^'^^— ^^s^s^,^^' 5\A, 5\^ xxxviu QENERAX IKDEX. CoUiston village, xiL Aberdeen, 590, 594, 595 Collow markets, xL Forfinr, 454 CoUuthie bum, ix. Fife,^ 534— hottse, 792 Colly veat, the, iv. DumJ&ies, 41 Colmellie, remaiiiB at, xi. Forfar, 623 Colmonell parish, v. Ayr, 528 — village, 531 Colmslie hill, iii. Roxburgh, 65— tower, 58 Colonsay isle, vii. Argyle, 340, 345, 351, 534, 544 Colp, tumulus at, xii. Aberdeen, 993 Colpie bum, xii, Aberdeen, 728— remains at, 732 ColqiUieman chapel, v. Ayr, 6 55'- quarry, 661 Colsay isle, xv. Shetland, 94 Colsnaughton, see Coalsnaughton Colstane, see Logie Coldstone Coltness house, vL Lanark, 615, 958 — ironworks, 590, 610 — property, 617 — tilework, 611 Coltry bum, i. Edinburgh, 196 Colston village, vi. Lanark, 246 Columcille loch, xiv. Inverness, 267, 279 Colvend and Southwick parish, iv, Kirk- cudbright, 215 Colzium castle, viii. Stirb'ng, 152 — glen, 147— house, 142, 148 Comaraich property, xiv. Ross, 100 Comes well, xiii. Banff, 147 Comeston, battle at, xi. Kincardine, 282 Comiston house, i. Edinburgh, 120 Comlongon woods, iv. Dumfries, 220 — castle, 228 Common colliery, v. Ayr, 326 Common haugh, iii. Roxburgh, 379 Common hill, v. Bute, 96 Communion stones, iv. Kirkcudbright, 268 Comore loch, vii. Renfrew, 316 Compass, hill, xiv. Inverness, 149 Compensation pond, i. Edinburgh, 311 Compstou castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 40 — house, ib. Comrie parish, x. Perth, 578 — house, 584 —village, 590, 703 Com>'n'8 pool, iv. Dumfries, 59 Con loch, X. Perth, 1151 Cona water, \ii. Argyle, 231 Conachan hills, x. Perth, 251 Conachan isle, viii. Dunbarton, 156, 157 Conait water, x. Perth, 541 Conan chapel, xi. Forfar, 490 Conan house, xiv. Ross, 368 — property, 374— water, 40, 21 1» 214, 215, 218, 227, 2.51, 364, 366, 367, 399, 400 Conanbridge, village, xiv. Ross, 377 Conansay limeworks, xi. Forfar, 352 Conansyth house, xi. Forfar, 358 Concraig cliffs, x. Perth, 315, 316 Condorat village, viii. Dunbarton, 149 Cone, sandstone at, iv. Dumfries, 206 Coneach house, vii^ Argyld, 229— water, 231 Conerock hill, xiii. Elgin, 229 Confunderland moss, xii. Aberdeen, 1105 Congalton property, iL Haddington, 210 Conghoillis, ancient parish of, xi Fer&r, 239 Conglass water, xiiL Banff, 297 Conheath property, &c. iv. Dumfiies, 351, 354 Conicaval school, xiii. Elgin, 193 Coniglen valley, viL Argyle, 413— water, 416 Coning hill, xii. Aberdeen, 681 Coningsburgh hills, xv. Shetland, 8 Connage harbour, &c xiv. Inverness, 378, 390 Connell ferry, vii. Argyle, 475 Connell loch, iv. Wigton, 103 Conneypark, remains at, viii. Stirling, 152 Connon and Conon, see Conan Conry water, xii. Aberdeen, 530 Conns quarry, xii. Aberdeen, 985 Constable, improvements at, v. Ayr, 803 Content, remains found at, v. Ayr, 120 Contin parish, xiv. Ross, 235 Contullich bum, xik Aberdeen, 1049 Conval hill, and fort on, xiiL Banff, 104, 106, 110— XV. Sutherland, 105 Conversion brae, vi. Lanark, 420 Conveth property, xL Kincajxline, 133 Convinth, suppressed parish, xiv. Inver- ness, 483 Cookney chapel, xi. Kincardine, 265 Cookstone mill, xi. For&r, 685— moss, 673 Coom hill, iii. Roxburgh, 87 Coquet water, iii. Roxburgh, 254 Coquhalzie house, &c. x. Perth, 336, 339 Corafuar hill, \iii. Dunbarton, 156 Corah castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 220 Corbanchory caira, &c. xii. Aberdeen, 1121, 1122 Corbet house, iii. Roxburgh, 449, 451 Corbie bum, xi. Forfar, 234 Corbie hall, ii. Berwick, 225 Corbie hall, camp at, vi. Lanaxk, 533 Corbiehill village, ix. Fife, 578 Corbie pot, xi. Kincardine, 191 Corbie's Know, xi. Forfar, 325 Corchinan bum, xii. Aberdeen, 407 Cordell printworks, viii. Dunbarton, 234 Cordorken, remains at, iv. Wigton, 233 Core water, iii. Peebles, 59 Coreen hills, xii. Aberdeen, 440, 486, 846 Corehouse falls, vi. Lanark, 5 Corellan isle, vii. Argj'le, 2.59 Corfardine quarry, iv. Dumfries, 474 Corf house bay, xiv. Ross, 172 Corgach, coal at, xv. Sutherland, 3 Corgarth district, xii. Aberdeen, 528 — castle, 544— chapel, 547, 554 — spring, Corgyle plantations, xiii. Elgin, 6 7 GENERAL INDEX. XXXI X Corhabbie hUl, xiil Banff, lOS Corinachencher bay, vii Argyle, 281 Corinessie vale, xv. Sutherland, 84 Corkindale law, vii. Renfrew, 309 Corkrie port, iv. "VVigton, 201 ' Corlie hill, viL Renfrew, 536 Connie hill, ix. Fife, 150 Cormilligan Bane hill, iv. Dumfiries, 473 Cormiston plantations, vi Lanark, 45 Cormorant cave, vii. Argyle, 352 Com exchange, Stirling, viiL Stirling, 426 Comachantian hill, viii. Dunbarton, 156 Comal tower, iv. Dumfries, 114 Comamaugh loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 Comcattarach hill, xiii. Banff, 98 Comceres, limestone at, ix. Fife, 972 Comcocklemuir quarries, iv. Dumfries, 184, 221, 384 Corahill house, xii. Aberdeen, 1076 Comhill house, vi. Lanark, 342, 345, 353 Comie burn, ii. Linlithgow, 18, 19 Comletter cascade, vii. Argyle, 478, 479 Comsilloch plantations, vL Lanark, 729 Corotown, battle o^ viii. Stirling, 223, 316 Corodale cave, xiv. Inverness, 183 Corpach village, xiv. Invemcss, 122 Corr loch, xv. Sutherland, 217 Corra Dhim, the, xiv. Inverness, 152 Corra linn, vi. Lanark, 5, 6, 936 Corral bum, x. Perth, 426--erdeen, 238 Crakaig, remains at, vii. Argyle, 349 Crakaig house, xv. Sutherland, 199 Cramilt farm, iii. Peebles, 167 Cranimag point, iv. Wigton, 201 Cramond, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 589 — house, 590, 596 — isle, 592 — ironworks, &c. 600— village, 601 Cramond Regis house, i. Edinbui;gh, 596 Crane loch, iv. Dumfries, 68, vi. Lanark, C6, 915 Crannich district, x. Perth, 702 Cranshaw law, iii. Roxburgh, 191 Cranshaws parish, ii. Berwick, 99 — hill, 100— castle, 101 Cranston parish, i. Edinburgh, 191 Cranston Dean bridge, i. Edinburgh, 1 95 Cranbton hill waterworks, vi. Lanark, 222, 377 Cranyard hill, xi. Forfar, 612 Crarie bum, iv. Dumfries, 333 Crask hill, xv. Sutherland, 189 Craspul loch, xv. Sutherland, 87 Crathes hill, xi. Kincardine, 326 — cattle, 338, 343, 347 Crathie point, xiii. nanft", 181 Crathie and Braemar, united jiarishes of, xii. Aberdeen, 646 Craw, coal at, viii. Clackmannan, {)9 Craw »tane, the, iv. Wigton, 233 Crawfield, coal at, v. Ayr, 573 Crawford castle and priory, ix. Fife, 568 Crawford parish, >i. Lanark, 327 — ensile* 327, 331— moor, 327— village, 332, 337 Crawfordjohn parish, vi. Lanark, 497 — village, 505 Crawford^s hole, vi. Lanark, 886 Crawiurdland castle, v. Ayr, 54 1 Crawfiirdsdyke village and quoad sacra parish, vii. Renfrew, 413, 466 Crawhill house, ii. Linlithgow, 35 Crawick moss, vi. Lanark, 603 Crawick water and colliery, iv. Dumiriesy 297, 298 Crawickmill village, iv. Dumfi-iea, 309, 310 CrawknowB, remains at, iv. Dumfries, 1 57 Crawley spring, i. Edinburgh, 109, 310, 757* Crawthwaite, lead ore at, iv. Dumfries, 196 Crawton village, xi. Kincardine, 212, 226 Creach Bhunn hill, vii. Argyle, 124 Creagnafale rock, xiv. Inverness, 246 Creag Nisdale rock, xiv. Inverness, 248 Crease, remains found at, ii. Berwick, 228 Cree frith, iv. Wigton, I Cree loch, i v. Kirkcudbr^t, 119— Wig- ton, 169 Cree moss, iv. Wigton, 168, 177, 189 Cree river, iv. Kirkcudbright, 117, 118, 119, 317, Wigton, 167, 168, 187, 220, V. Ayr, 408 Cree woods, iv. Kirkcudbright, 123 Cree bridge \illage, iv. Kirkcudbright, 1 34 Creech plantations, xv. Sutherland, 19 Creed water, see Creid Creek of Annan harbour, iv. Dumfricft, 119 Creetown village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 134 Creich parish, ix. Fife, 631 — Druidical circles, 640 — castle, 644 — church, 645 Creid water, xiv. Ross, 1 15, 120, 157, 160, 161 Crcigh hill, xi. Forfar, 599 Creighriabhach hill, xv. Sutherland, 83 Cre-inch isle, viii. Dunbarton, 233 Creoch colliery, v. Ayr, 514 Creran loch, vii. Argyle, 475, 476 — water, 231, 479 Crew camp and well, xi. Forfar, 559 Crib hope, iii. Roxburgh, 191 Crib law, iii. Roxburgh, 87 Crichie well, xii. Aberdeen, 150 Crichton asylum, iv. Dumfries, 341 Crichton parish, i. Edinburgh, 56— castle, 57, 58, > 156 — house, 57 Crichton's well, iv. Dumfries, 3 Crickup linn, iv. Dumfries, 78 Criech ])arish, xv. Sutherland, 17 — hill, 18 CrieVc hill, iv. Dumfries, 195 Criffbl mount, iv. Dumfries, 3, 63, Kirk- cudbright, 234, 245 Criggie hill, xi. Kincardine, 270 Crighton stone, xii. Aberdeen, 426 Crimel's bay, ii. Berwick, 318 Crimond parish, xiL Aberdeen, 702 GENERAL INDEX. xliii Crimonmogate house, xii Aberdeen, 225 Crinan canal, vii. Argyle, 57, 265, 638 — mon, 550, 552 Croachy chapel, xiv. InTernesB, 519 Croak's well, v. Ayr, 426 Croachails farm, xiv. Inverness, 484 Croclach, skirmidi at, xiii. Elgin, 1 30 Crocketford village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 260 Croe water, xiv. Ross, 172, 181, 182 Croftanrigh, v. Ayr, 210 Croilhead, cave at, iv. Dumlries, 53 Crofthead factory, vii. Renfrew, 336 — house, 329— village, 330 Croflhead limeworks, ii. Linlithgow, 76 Crofts property, xi. Forfiir, 490 Croglin craig, iv. Dumfries, 473 Crogo bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 99— vil- lage, 104 Croichtanteampuil, the, xiv. Ross, 252 Croick church, xiv. Ross, 423, 427 Croik well, xiii Banff, 214 Cromal hill, xiv. Inverness, 467, 470 Cromar hills, xii. Aberdeen, 240 Cromarty bay, xiii. Elgin, 147, xiv. Ross, 2, 21— frith, 1, 20, 21, 38, 40, 214, 262, 263, 301, 302, 313, 333, 364, 366 — hill, 4 — parish and town, 1, 11, 15 — property, 13 Crombie bum, jd. For&r, 612, xiiL Banff, 126, 383— castle, 384 Crombie, suppressed parish of, ix. Fife, 727— church, 732— villages, 733 Cromdale parish, xiv. Invemess, 432— battle of, 434 Cromore harbour, xiv. Ross, 167 Cromwell park bleachfield, x. Perth, 1 88, 189 Cromwell's fort, Ayr, v. A3rr, 21, 42 Cromwell's fort, Rosemarkie, xiv. Ross, 351 Cromwell's mount, ii. Haddington, 79 Cromwell's pit,ix Fife, 984 Crona isle, xv. Sutherland, 106 Crook hill, vii. Renfrew, 95 Crook house, viii. Stirling, 317 Crook inn, iil Peebles, 68 — plantations, 62 •Crook of Devon, viiL Clackmannan, 122, ix. Kinross, 570, x. Perth, 302, SOS- village, 1021 Crooked stone, the, vi. Lanark, 270— lime works, &c. 259 Crookholm house, iv. Dumfries, 491 Crooks mills, v. Ayr, 549, 550 Crookston castle, vii. Renfrew, 34, 123, 193, 551 Crookston house, i. Edinburgh, 173, 417 Croot loch, V. Ayr, 493 Cross of Abercom, ii. Linlithgow, 26 Cross of Alloa, viii. Clackmannan, 42 Cross of Bongate, iii. Roxburgh, 12 Cross of Chanonry, xiv. Ross, 353 Cross of Dull, X. Perth, 767 Cross of Fochabers, xiii. Elgin, 119 CroHS of Fowlis, x. Perth, 254 Cross of Inverness, xiv. Inverness, 16 Cross of Merkland, iv. Dumfries, 279 Cross of Pencaitland, ii. Haddington, 350 Cross of Perth, x. Perth, 68 Cross of Preston, ii. Haddington, 310 Cross of Rayne, xii. Aberdeen, 424 Cross of Rosemarkie, xiv. Ross, 353 Cross of Ruthwell, iv. Dumfries, 221 Cross of Scone, x. Perth, 1062 Cross of Sowlis, v. Ayr, 541 Cross of Turriff, xii. Aberdeen, 993 Cross cave, the, xiii. Banff, 255 Cross church of Dundee, xi. Forfar, 41 Cross hill of Ruthcrglen, vi. Lanark, 383 Cross kirk of Peebles, iii. Peebles, 4, 6 Cross kirk of Unst, xv. Shetland, 40 Cross kirk of Westray, xv. Orkney, 125 Cross water of Luce, iv. Wigton, 76 Cross, quoiid sacra parish of, xiv. Ross, 141 Cross and Bumess, united parishes of, xv. Orkney, 85 Crossaig water, vii. Argyle, 438 Cross Arthurlie printfield, viL Renfrew, 329, 335 Crossbasket house, &c. vi. Lanark, 319, 878, 879, 892 Crossbum house, vi. Lanark, 487 Crosby chapel, v. Ayr, 170, (»6G— hill, 246— house, 249— property, 254 Crosschain hill, i. Edinburgh, 536 CrosBcroin hill, vi. Lanark, 343 Crossdarder cairn, xi. Kincardine, 237 Croasford village, ix. Fife, 874 Crossgates village, ix. Fife, 188, 574, 874 Crossgight hill, xii. Aberdeen, 175 Crosshall, remains at, ii. Berwick, 56 Crossbill colliery, v. Ayr, 651 — village, 494, 503, 504 Crossbill quarry, vii. Renfrew, 497, *501 Crossbill village and qttoad stxcra parish, vi. Lanark, 652, 665, 893, 898 Crosskirk bay, xv. Orkney, 2 Crossknowe, coins found at, vi Lanark, 363 Crosslee village, i Edinburgh, 423 Crosslie factory, vii. Renfrew, 51 Crossmichael parish, iv. Kirkcudbright, 190— village, 198 Crossmyloof school, vii. Renfrew, 509 Crosspol bay, vii Ajgyle, 199 Crossraguel abbey, v. Ayr, 782 Crossridge hill, vi. Lanark, 518, 520 Crossroi^ village, viii Stirling, 278 Crosston village, xi. Forfar, 629 Cross stones of Aberlenmo, xi. Forfar, 63^1 Cross-street village, xiv. Ross, 136 Crovie den, xiii. Banff, 273— viUage, 272, 286, 291 Crowner Gun's castle, xv. Sutherland, 1 4 1 Crown of Scotland hill, iii Peebles, 62 Croy mill, viii Dunbarton, 173 Croy property, xiv. Inverness, 445, 455 Croy and Dalcross, united parishes of, xiv. Invemess, 444 xliv aSKEBAL IHDEZ. Cruach mount, x. Perth, 529 Cniachan mount, viL Argyle, 88, 470 Cruachluaach mount, vii. Ai^le, 632 Crucifield hill,xT. Shetland, 87— remains on, 39 Cnickie hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 282 Cruden parish, xil Aberdeen, 978 — bay and scares, 979— yilla^ 978 Cruggleton castle, ir. Wigton, 28— point, 23-^-Buppressed parish, 22, 27 Cniik water, xi. For&r, 311, 664 Cniikston, see Crookston Cniin isle, viiu Dunbarton, 238 Cruist Mhic aMea, xiv. Ross, 238 Crumstane hill, ii Berwick, 288 Cnitherland house, n. LanaA, 2W— col- lieries, 299 Cuan sound, vil Aigyle, 72-pansh, see Kilbrandon Cubbs craigs, sprins; a^ ▼• Ayr, 324 Cuen loch, xr. Sutherland, 137 Cuff hill, V. AfT, «71--remams on, 577 CuflBibouts Tiliige, h. Lmhthgow, 72 ^^ Cugie cate, Jdr. Inremess, 492— forest, 495 Cuil bsy, Tii. Axwrle, 229 CuiUie loch, xr. Sutherland, 1 37 GuiUin, see CulUn Culaird school, xiv. Inyemess, 374 Culaixdo hill, xi Kincardine, 40 Culalo hills, ix. Fife, 219, 830 Culbin property, xiii. Elgin, 33— sand- hills, 215, 217 Culbinagarth burial ground, xv. Shetland, 12 Culblair, remains found at, xiv. Inverness, 893 Oolblean hiHs, xii. Aberdeen, 773— cairns, on, 778— battle of, 1062— cave in, 774 Culbo property, xiv. Row, 48 Culbockie village, xiv. Ross, 377 Culcabock village, xiv. Inverness, 25 Culcaim, marl at, xiv. Ross, 264 Culchinnock farm house, xiv. Inverness, 518 Culclachie plantations, xiv. Inverness, 516, 520 Culcreuch factory, viii. Stirling, 40, 45— house, 38, 43 Culdoich property, xiv. Inverness, 445 Culduthel moor, xiv. Inverness, 445, 447 Culemie spring, xiv. Inverness, 380 Culfreich loch, xv. Sutherland, 217 Culgnwer, cairns at, xv. Sutherland, 201 Culhill colliery, \i. Lanark, 666 Culiss property, xiv. Ross, 25 Cullnlo hills, ix. Fife, 219, 830 Cullen parish, xiii. Banff, 313 — bay, 314, 31G-.hou8e, 249, 251, 314, 316, 319, 321, 327, 342— town, 313— water, 247, 315 CuUerly, improvements at, xii. Aberdeen, 740 ullicudden, annexed parish of, xiv. Ross, ^—quarry, 42 Cullin hills, xiv. Inyenien, 219, 221, 295, 300 Cullisaid loch, xv. Sutherbmd, 169 . CuUivoe bay, xv. Shetland, 24, 32 M Cullochbum village, tl Lanaik, 431 19 Culloden, battle o^ xiv. Invemea, 15, 451,514,518— cflMtle, 15— house, 16 — property, 887 Cullycan den, xiii Banff, 273 Cuhn hill, iil Rexbuig^ 87 Cuhsallie, ancient puish o^ xt. Suther- land, 24 Culmeaddin hill, xii Aberdeen, 728 Culnagrein village, xiv. Ross, 136 Culnoag church, iv. Wigton, 28 Culquhannv caitle, xii Aberdeen, 544 Culross pansh, x. Perth, 597— abbey, 600 —town, 598 Culsahnond parish, xii Aberdeeo, 727 — hill, &c. 728— quarries, 729 Culscaddan sands, iv. Wigton, 28 CuLsh hill, xii Aberdeen, 175— standing stones, 177 Culstemess, cave at, xv. Shetland, 57 Culswick brough, xv. Shetland, 100, 111 —school, 136 Culter bum, xii. Aberdeen, 105— house, &c 106, 107, 108— property, 886 Culter parish, vi Lanark, 340— bum, 341, 342, 944— craig, 342— fell, 841, 953, iii Peebles, 79 — village, vi Lanark, 340, 347, 350 Culterallers house, &c. vi Lanark, 842; 343 Cultermains house, vi Lanark, 344— em- bankment at, 349 Cultens^ nook, iv. Dumfries, 340 Cultoquhey parish, x. Perth, 250— camp at, 255, 272— house, 257, 275 Cults parish, ix. Fife, 558— hills, ib, — quarries, 570 Cults, remains at, xii Aberdeen, 585 Cults school, xi. Kincardine, 186 Cultsmill village, ix. Fife, 574 Culvennon quarries, iv. Wigton, 198 Culzean castle and caves, v. Ayr, 352, 788 Cumbernauld parish, viii Dunbarton, 1 35 — house, 1 36 — village, 152 — limeworks, vi. Lanark, 244 Cumberwood, remains at, iv. Wigton, 233 Cumbrae isle and parish, v. Bute, 69 — castle, 70 Cumbrae, Little, isle, v. Ayr, 243, 244, 269— lighthouse, 270 Cumhill mhor hill, xiv. Ross, 74 Cumledge bum, ii. Berwick, 268 Curaloden cottage, iv. Kirkcudbright, 118, 134 Cummertrees parish, iv. Dumfries, 244 — burn, 245— villagje, 244, 253 Cumming village, xiii. Elgin, 38, 40 Cummin^s cairn, xiv. Inverness, 57 Cummin's camp, xii Aberdeen, 622 Cummin's castle, iv. Dumfries, 59-^kirk, 227 OEKBBAL IITDBX. xlv Cumminls trench, xii Aberdeen, 287 Cumminstown viUage, xiL Aberdeen, 765, 769 Cumnock, tpwn of, v. Ayr, 476, -485, 487 Cumnock, New, parish, t. Ayr, 509 Cumnock, Old, parish, v. Ayr, 476 Cumrue loch, iv. DumMes, 67 Cuniack mount, x v. Sutherland, 105 Cunnan park, t. Ayr, 350 Cunner law, iz. Fire, 914 Cunnigar, the, L Edinbui]^ 373 Cunningar, soil at, yL Lanark, 257 Cunninghame distaict of, v. Ayr, 192, 243, 289,727,798,811 Cunninghamhead house, v. Ayr, 525 Cunninghar hill, viii Clackmannan, 66 Cunningpark farm, v. Ayr, 8 Cunningsburgh, suppressed parish of, zv. Shetland, 93 Cunnypark property, viii. Stirling, 154 Cunoquhie house, iz. Fife, 41 Cumderton, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 259 Cupar parish and town, ix. Fife, 1— castle, 4 Cupar Angus, parish of, z. Perth, 1141--> abbey, 1143— town, 1147 Cuppasetter brough, zv. Shetland, 83 Cur water, yii. Ai^le, 104 Curate'ft steps, y. Ayr, 144 Curate'b well, yi. Lanark, 65 Curghie bay, iy. Wigton, 201 Curlee hiU, ill Peebles, 28 Curling hall, v. Ayr, 810 Curr hill, iii Roxburgh, 448 Curreath quarry, y. Ayr, 668 — house, 678 Currie, parish of^ L Edinbui]g^ 542— bridge, 545 — yillage, 543 Currie house and wood, i. Edinbui^h, 152, 155,167,173,177 Ciuriehill castle, i. Edinburgh, 546 Currymire brickwork, yiii Stirling, 160 CurryBide collieries, ri. Lanark, 626 Cushnie, annexed parish of^ xii. Aberdeen, 1102— bum, 1105— hill, 1103— house, 1123— property, 1112 Custom house, Leith, L Edinburgh, 774 Cutstraw limeworks, y. Ayr, 729 Cuttieshill inn, xi. Kincs^dine, 243 Cuttlehill colliery, ix. Fife, 835— house, 718 Cuttyfield village, yiii. Stirling, 315 Cypress grotto, L Edinbur;^h, 332 Cyrus mount, xi. Kincardme, 270 Daal loch, yii. Argyle, 645 Daan bum, xiy. Ross, 437, 438 Daer water, yi. Xjanark, 329, 942 Daiglen bum, yiii Clackmannan, 67 Dail house, yii. Argyle, 54 Dailly parish, y. Ayr, 381— yillage, 388 Dailnanceann, batUe of, rii Argyle, 52 Dairsie parish, ix. Fife, 770— bum, 771 — castle and property, ib, — cottage, 772— village, 774 Dal water, xv. Sutherland, 88 Dalagich hill, vii Renfrew,. 384 Dalarran, remains at, iy. Kirkcudbright, 108 Dalarrossie, annexed parish o^xiy. Inyer- nesB, 97— church. 111 Dalavich, annexed parish of^ yii Aigyle, 372 Dalballie plantations, xiii Elgin, 67 ' Dalbeattie yillage, &c iy. Kirkcudbright, 351, 352, 353 Dalbeg haugh, yi Lanark, 257 Dalbliur limeworks, y. Ayr, 328 Dalbog, remains at, xi FotSbx, 623 Dalbog, iron at, xi Kincardine, 113 Dalchallie glen, xi For&r, 421 Dalcham, rocks at, xy. Sutherland, 171 Dalchottiie, battle o^ x. Perth, 652 Dalcross, annexed parish of, xiy. Inyer- ness, 444— castle and property, 445, 463 Dalcruive bridge, x. Perth, 193 Daldawn house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 161 Dalduff castle, y. Ayr, 365 Dale bridge, xy. Caithness, 78 Dales' Knap, xi Forfiir, 326 Dalgain, ancient parish o^ y. Ayr, 126— plantations, 132^tiarry, 142 Dalgamo, annexed pariah o^ iy. Dum- fries, 80 Dalganren village, y. Ayr, 829 Dalgenross, battle of; x. Perth, 326, 583 —camps at, 582— village, 590 Dalgerrock house, y. Ayr, 529 Dalgety parish, ix. Fife, 181 Dalquhanachahi district, xy. Caithness, 79 Dalginch castle, ix. Fife, 665 Dalgohom printworks, viii Dunbarton, 234 Dalgoner bridge, iv. Dumfries, 337 Dalguise house, x. Perth, 1008— yillage, 1010 Dalharrold, stones at, xv. Sutherland, 72 Dalhoan yillage, y. Ayr, 503 Dalhonzie bridge, x. Perth, 584 Dalhousie bum, i Edinburgh, 607— cat- tle, &c. ib» Dalintober yillage, vii Argyle, 465 Dalkaimey Hnn, y. Ayr, 335 Dalkeith parish, i Edinburgh, 451— cas- tle, 466— church, 501 — palace, 481,. 497— town, 461, 497, 507 Dallachy, ironstone at, xiii Banfl^ 226 — property, Elgin, 120 DidlaUe, rocks at, xi Kincardine, 113 Dallas parish, xiii Elgin, 195— castle, 19ft —loch, 196 Dallayaird quarry, xi Kincardine, 89 Dalmahoy hill, i Edinburgh, 77— prcK perty and house, 83, 92 Dalmaik, coins found at, xiii Aberdeen^ 888 Dalmakerran, lead at, iv. Dumfries, 474 Dalmellin house, y. Ayr, 1 70 Dalmellington parish, v. Ayr, 308 — sce- nery at, 8— yillage, 316, 319 Dalmeny parish, ii IJnlithgow, 90— house xlvi OEKEBAL INDEX. and- park, 91, 95, L Edinburgh, 590, 591 — village, ii. Linlithgow, 106 Dalmigavie plantations, xv. InTemeas, 104 Dalmonach bleachfield, viiL Dunbarton, 224 Dalmony valley, xiv. Inverness, 45 Dalmore quarry, &c. v. Ayr, 638, 652 Dalmore harbour, xiv. Ross, 275— -mill, 271 Dalmorton, improvements at, v. Ayr, 341 Dalmounach house, xiii. Elgin, 62 Dalmuir works, viii. Dunbarton^ 16, 27 — bum, 18— village, 29 Dalmuir quarry, vL Lanark, 884' Dalmuir shore works, viii. DunbilHon, 16, 27— village, 29 Dalmulin house, v. A3rr, 170 Dalmyot hill, viii. Stirling, 182, 215, viii. Clackmannan, 77 Dalnulr, trees at, viii Stirling, 102 Dabmvaird mill, xi. Forfkr, 670 Dalnavcrt property, xiv. Inverness, 86 Dalncrn cascade, vii Argyle, 478, 479 Dalpatrick haugh, vL Lanark, 257 — quarry, 725— remains at, 734 Dalpersie property, xii. Aberdeen, 446 Dalquharan colliery, v. Ayr, 379, 882 — house, &c. 383, 384 Dalquham bleachiield, viii. Dunbarton, 245— plantations, 90 Dalreagle, improvements at, iv. Wigton, 19 Dabicket mill, v. Ayr, 517 Dairy parish, v. Ayr, 210— town, 221, 283 Dairy, Arran, v. Bute, 20 Daily parish, iv. Kirkcudbright, 369— church, 370 Dalrymple parish, v. Ayr, 273— village, 279, 282, 284 Dalscairth house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 Dalserf parish, vi. Lanark, 719 — ^house, 729— village, 726, 737, 748 Dalswinton house, &c. iv. Diunfiies, 55, 56, 57— village, 61, 65 Dalton parish, iv. Dumfries, 371 — village, ib. 375 Dalton village, vi Lanark, 431 Dalton Hook limeworks, iv. Dumfries, 206, 208— town, 453 DaltuUch property, xiv. Inverness, 446 Dalveen property, iv. Dumfries, 327 Dalvey house, xiii. Elgin, 21 5, 219, 222— castle, 222 Dal what house, iv. Dumfries, 98— water, 331 Dalwhinnie, camp at, xiv. Inverness, 424 Dalyards, ruins at, xiv. Inverness, 470 Dalyell house, ix. Fife, 8 Dalzellowby colliery, v. Ayr, 379 Dalziel parish, vi. I^anark, 443— bum, 445— house, 444, 447, 453, 957— pro- perty, 449 Daman, skirmish at, xv. Sutherland, 155 Dame Helen's castle, v. Avr, 315 3 Damf loch, xiv. Roa, 100 Damhead, chapel at, viii Stirling, 335 Damhead village, x. Perth, 891 Damiett, see Dalmyot Damill, camp on, xii Ab^deen, 499* Damsay isle, xv. Orkney, 67— aound, 196 Damside lochs, x. Perth, 286 Damyat, see Dalmyot Dandaleith vale, xiii Elgin, 228 Danes' dike, Crail, ix. Fife, 956 Danevale house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 1 97 Dankeith house, v. Ayr, 566, 567 Dannie's den, xi Kincardine, 282 Daoire nam mart loch, viii Aigyle, 166 Dara bum, xii Aberdeen, 763 — ^hiU, 982 Dara den, ix. Fife, 518 DarcylB caira, ii. Berwick, 269 Dardar cascade, xii Aberdeen, 260 Dargavel house, vii. Renfrew, •507, •613 ' Dark mile valley, xiv. Inverness, 119 Darleith property, viii Dunbarton, 222 Darhngshaugh village, iii Roxbuivfa, 66, 67 Darlington village, v. Ayr, 731, 734 Darmead linn, &c. vi. Lanark, 608, 623, ii. Linlithgow, 76 Daraaway forest, xiii Elgin, 178, 188, 215, 218, 224— castle, 180, 215, 222 Darngaber castle and property, vi. La- nark, 269, 270 Damgate of Arbroath, xi For&r, 78 Daraley Bridge bleachfield, &c. vii Ren- frew, 35, 36 Damwick village, iii. Roxburgh, 67 Darochville house, xiv. InveraesB, 16 Darra hill, xii. Aberdeen, 982 Darrach hUl, viii. StirHng, 116, 117 Darvel village, v. Ayr, 849, 850, 851 Dasher fort, viii. Stirling, 268 Dasholm, remains at, viii Dunbarton, 47 Daugh of EdinvUlie, &c. xiii Banff, 1 1 1 Davan, battle at, xv. Sutherland. 155 David's fort, xiv. Inverness, 265 Davidson's Mains, village of, i Edin- burgh, 596, 601 Davieland limeworks, vii Renfrew, 35 Da%ington, embankment at, iv. Dumfries, 409 Daviot parish, xii. Aberdeen, 821 Daviot house, &c. xiv. Inverness, 106, 519 Daviot and Dunlichity, united parishes of, xiv. Inverness, 513' Daviston bum, vi. Lanark, 401 Davo den, xi Kincardine, 23, 29 Davoch of Annat, xiv. Invemess, 484 Davoeh of Erchleas, xiv. Inverness, 484 Davoch of Orange, xiii Banff, 216 Davochs of the Head, xiv. Inverness, 87 Dawan loch, xii. Aberdeen, 1071 Dawhaugh, the, xiii Banff, 27 Da>>ick, plantations at, iii. Peebles, 72— suppressed parish of, 76 Deacon Hill quarry, v. Ayr, 164 GENI[BAL INDEX. xl VII Beadmangill cairn, iv. Dumfries, 445 Ueadmeirs holm, the, v. Ayr, 761 Deadriggs cross, ii. Berwick, 56 Deddwater well, iii. Roxburgh, 442 DealganroBS, suppressed parish of, xiv. In- verness, 444 Dealgin Ross, battle of, x. Perth, 326, 583 Deals^ voc, xv. Shetland, 68 Dean bum, ii Linlithgow, 122 Dean castle, v. Ayr, 537, 541 Dean, ironstone at, ii. Haddington, 176 Dean bridge, i. Edinburgh, 619, 646— church, 665 Dean river, xi. Forfar, 165, 209, 337, 338, 343, 475, 670, 675, 691, x. Perth, 233 Deans crook, the, xiii. Elgin, 95 Deans village, vi. Lanark, 431 Deanside brae, vL Lanark, 106 Deanston factories, vi Lanark, 148 Deanston house and village, x. Perth, 1232, 1239— works, 1233 Deanston village, v. Ayr, 734 Deaothack water, xiv. Inverness, 485 Deam, shath, xiv. Inverness, 98 Dearg, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 83 Debateable lands, the, iv. Dumfries, 264 Dechmont law, ii Linlithgow, 115, vi Lor nark, 417 — remains on, 430 Dee river, xii Aberdeen, 1, 2, 5, 64, 106, 648, 676, 781, 832, 874, 1049, 1050, xiii Elgin,l37,xi Kincardine, 170, 174, 178, 190, 195, 199, 206, 231, 324, 328 — linn 0^ xii Aberdeen, 648 — fish- eries, xi. Kincardine, 231 Dee loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 119 — river, 3, 38, 64, 65, 110, 118, 146, 179, 191, 192, 200, 282 Deebridge village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 188 Deechoid hill, vii Aigyle, 516 Decpshank colliery, v. Ayr, 439 Deepsykehead quarry, iii. Peebles, 155 Deer abbey, xii. Aberdeen, 143— hill, 315 Deer, camp of, iv. Dumfries, 95 Deer, New, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 175 Deer, Old, parish o^ xii Aberdeen, 138 Deer ness, xv. Orkney, 170 — sound, 169, 170,172 Deer-dike of Oarvock, xi. Kincardine, 34, 129 Deerlaw hill, iii. Selkirk, 40 Deemess, quoad sacra parish of^ xv. Ork- ney, 189 Deer\i forest, the, xiv. Invemras, 445, 449 Deeside Agricultural Association, xi Kin- cardine, 351 Deirs causeway, vi. Lanark, 47? Deirs dike, iv. Wigton, 282 DeiPs knap, xi. Forfer, 326 Deirg fort, xiv. Invemen, 266 Deirg, mount, xiv. Ross, 74, 75 De la Beaute'B field, ii Berwick, 269 Delfour, remains at, xiv. Inverness, 87 Delflfield, manufactory at, v. Lanark, 157 Delgatty ca«tle,&c. xii. Aberdeen, 991,994 Delgaty hUl, xiii Banfi^ 150 Dellagyle, cave at, xiii. Elgin, 60 Delting parish, xv. Shetland, 56 Delvine house, x. Perth, 676 Delvorich village, x. Perth, 1240 Demyatt, see Dalmyot Den of Afforsk, xiii Banff, 273 Den of Airlie, xi Forfiir, 671, 675 Den of Balniddery, xi Forfar, 569, 571, 576 Den of Boddam, xii. Aberdeen, 356 Den of Bummouth, ii. Berwick, 1 33 Den of Craig, xii. Aberdeen, 408 Den of Crovie, xiii Banff, 273 Den of Cullycan, xiii Banff, 273 Den of Dara, ix. Fife, 518 Den of Davo, xi. Kincardine, 23, 29 Den of Dundee, xi. For&r, 5 Den of Dunglass, ii. Berwick, 291 Den of Dura, ix. Fife, 720, 721, 921 Den of Fowlis, xi Forfar, 461 Den of Gray, xi Forfar, 577 Den of Ouynd, xi Forfar, 352, 358 Den of Howie, xii. Aberdeen, 147 Den of Letham, xi. For&r, 147 Den of Oldhaven, xiii. Banff, 273 Den of Pease, ii. Berwick, 291 Den of Peattie, xi Kincardine, 3 Den of Rothie, xii Aberdeen, 319 Den bum, ii Linlithgow, 122 Denbum, copper ore at, x. Perth, 336 Dendoldrum farm, xi. Kincardine, 21 Denend village, xi. Forftir, 562 Denfenella, xi. Kincardine, 23, 79, 272, 282 Denhead collieries, ix. Fife, 475 — village, 307 Denhead village, xi. Forfar, 586 Denholm den, iii Roxburgh, 355 — hill, &c. 21 0— village, 432, 435 Denmark stone, x. Perth, 175 Denmiln mill, xiForfar, 578— village, 586 Denmore house, xii Aberdeen, 1076 Denniss ness, xv. Orkney, 104 Denny parish, viii. Stirling, 115— curling club, &c 124— distillery, 130— town, 115,122,131 Denny bridge village, viii Stirling, 115 Dennyfem, remains at, xi Forftir, 689 Denny Lonehead village, viii. Stirling, 122, 132, 133 Denoon bum, xi. Forfiir, 338— ^len, 339 —castle, 297, 345 Denovan print-works, viii Stirling, 384— property, 120— village, 385 Dercleuch loch, v. Ayr, 334 Derculich house, x. Perth, 769 Dergan water, vii. Argyle, 479 Deskford parish, xiii. Bantf, 63— bum, 64 —tower, 68. Deskie chapel, xiii Banfi; 133 Deskry water, xii. Aberdeen, 416, 525, 530, 1071 Dess bum, &c. xii. Aberdeen, 1049, 1058 D'Esse'B wark, i Edinburgh, 277 Deuchar house, &c. xi Forfar, 313, 315 •xlviii OENEBAL INDEX. Deuchar bridge, iii. Selkirk, 30— chapel, 29 Deucharhope hill, iii. Selkirk, 38 Deuchar swire, iiL Selkirk, 47 Deugh water, iv. Kirkcudbright, 3, 4, 110, 273, 369 Devano, camp at, xii. Aberdeen, 734 Derar isle, vii. Ar|p;yle, 455 Deveron river, xii. Aberdeen, 274, 598, 599, 982, 1036, xiii Banff, 1, 2, 41,46, 84, 103, 145, 148, 198, 200, 204, 275, 279, 382 DevU'8 mill, x. Perth, 302 Devon ironworks, viii. Clackmannan, 124, 128— river, 7, 67, 78, 80, 121, 122, Stirling, 176, 216, 306, x. Perth, 297, 298, 301, 303, 333, 1016, 1018~ crook of, 302, 303 Devon hill colliery, vi, Lanark, 258 Devonahaw hill, vi Lanark, 806 — camp on, 817 Devonride colliery, viii. Clackmannan, 69 —village^ 73 Dewar giU, iiL Peebles, 27 Dewar hill, i. Edinburgh, 198 Dewarton village, i Edinburgh, 183 Dews loch, XL Kincardine, 245 Dheaick water, xiv. Inverness, 363 Dheirrig castle, vii. Aigyle, 111 Dhruim of Beauly, xiv. Inverness, 364 Dhu hill, viii. Dunbarton, 156 Dhu loch and bum, xii. Aberdeen, 775 Dhu loch, V. Bute, 99 Dhu loch, XV. Caithness, 123 Dhu craig hill, x. Perth, 1096 Dhuisk water, v. Ayr, 528 Dichmountlaw hill, xi. For£Eir, 491 Dighty water, xi. Forfar, 55, 455, 456, 539,569,591,648,649 Digmore harbour, xiv. Inverness, 161 Dillavaird miU, xL Forfar, 670 Dillichip printworks, viiL Dunbarton, 225 Dilred castle, xv. Sutherland, 143 Dilty moss, xi. For&r, 208, 332, 352 Dinard loch, xv. Sutherland, 87 — strath and water, 84, 87 Dingwall parish, xiv. Ross, 210— frith, 399— town, 211, 219, 228 Dingwall^ tomb, xiv. Ross, 460 Dingy 's how, the, xv. Orkney, 1 79 Dinlabjrre plantations, iii. Roxburgh, 441 —water, 442 Dinmurchy house, v. Ayr, 409 Dinnet bum, xii. Aberdeen, 1049-- mill, 1062 Dinsdykes, the, vi Lanark, 374 Dinwiddie hill, iv. Dumfries, 170— camp on, 183 Dionard water, xv. Sutherland, 215 Dippen head, v. Bute, 41 Dipple, suppressed parish of, xiii. Elgin, 51 Dippool bum, vL Lanark 85 — collieries, 77 Dirk Hatteraick'b cave, iv. KuVcxidbi\%VvV 316 Dirleton parish, ii. Haddington, 202 — castle, 208 — property, 207— village, 203,212,213,216 IHrlot crag and castle, xv. Caithnea, 72 — mission, 78 Dirrington hills, ii Berwick, 42, 94 Dim loch and rock, xv. Su^erland, 169 Dim Moir forest, xv. Sutherland, 123 Disblair house, xii Aberdeen, 168 Discomfit bum, iv. Dumfries, 70 Distincthom hill, v. Ayr, 179 Ditch haU, the, x. Perth, 551 Divach water and &lls, xiv. Invemeas, 39 Divie water, xiii Elgin, 179, 182, 191 Dobson^ well, ii Haidd^gton, 4 Dochart loch, x. Perth, 1080— water, 454, 705, 1079, 1080— glen, 1077 Dochfour house, xiv. Inverness, 16— •loch, 8 Dochgarroch bum, xiv. Inverness, 6 Dochnaluig bum, xiv. Inverness, 6 Dockie chapel, xi Fotfrff, 542 Dod hill, iii Iloxbuigh, 441 — remains at , 433 Dodds miU, ii Berwick, 848, 349 Dodds Corse stane, ii Berwick, 358 Dodhead hill, iii. Peebles, 135 Dodhill lead mine, iv. Dumfries, 800 Doecleugh castle, iii Roxbuigh, 488 Dogden moss, ii Berwick, 63 Dogrow of Renfrew, vii. Renfrew, 12 Dogs^ isle, xiv. Invemess, 423 Dogtown, stone at, ix. Fiife, 197 Doine loch, x. Perth, 345 Doll glen, xi.*Forfiir, 439 Dollar parish, viii. Clackmannan, 76, 141 --bum, 77— colliery, 82— hill, 77— in- stitution, 94 — mineral spring, 80, x. Perth, 1018 — village, viii. Clackman- nan, 78, 87, 110 Dollar law, iu. Peebles, 110, 1 17 Dollarbura tower, iii Peebles, 116 Dollars house, v. Ayr, 610 Delias, see Dallas DoUerie house, x. Perth, 749 Dolls distillery, viii Stirling, 230 Dolphinston, ruins at, ii. Haddington, 31 1 Dolphinston tower, iii. Roxburgh, 260 Dolphinton parish, vi Lanark, 49 — hill, 49, 848, 953 Dolt hill, iv. Wigton, 201 Dominican monastery, Ayr, v. Ajt, 36 Dominican monastery, Perth, x. Perth, 64 Dominican monastery, St Andrews, ix Fife, 468 Dominican monastery, Stirling, viii Stir- ling, 423 Dominican monastery, Wigton, ir. Wig- ton, 3 Don river, xii Aberdeen, 1, 2, 120, 166, 168, 408, 415, 416, 436, 440, 459, 486, 491, 525, 528, 550, 631, 635, 655, 818, ^^bA^'i.^>^o^Baaff> 123 GBinUUL IKDBX. xlix Donald^ tomh, xiL Aberdeen, 570 Donaldson^ hospital, i. Edinbuigh, 736 Donan castle, xiv. Ross, 176, \92 Donan fidr, xil Aberdeen, 2^2 Donibristle house, ix. Fife, 1 88 Donkins limeworks, iv. Dumfries, 282 Don LamorecklB tower, iii. Roxbuigh, 388, 392 Donnan castle, xiv. Ross, 176, 192 — isle, 170 Dool trees, the, v. Ajt, 336 Doomster hill, vi. Lanark, 690 Doon hill of Maxwelton, iv. Dumfries, 473 Doon hill of Dunbar, ii. Haddington, 224, 225— baUle, 226— camp on, 227 Doon loch, T. Ayr, 308, 309, 310, 338, 334— river, 2, 7, 14, 51, 273, 275, 308, 310, 333, 334, 349, 350, 494 Doon of Kilmorie, v. Bute, 61 Doon of Tynron, ir. Dumfries, 473, 474 Doonholm house, v. Ayr, 4, 16 Doonside castle, y. Ayr, 365 — ^house, 275 Dorback water, xiii. Elgin, 182, 191 Dores castle, xL Forfar, 643 Dores parish, xiv. Inremess, 373 Dorholm rock, xt. Shetland, 72 Dormont hope, iiL Roxbuigh, 191 Dormont house, iv. Dumfries, 205, 372, 374 Domagilla'^ tower, xt. Sutherland, 93 Domal castle, v. Ayr, 325— loch, 529 Domell well, v. Ayr, 246 Domie bay, xiv. Ross, 172— village, 176, 178 Dornoch parish and town, xv. Sutherland, 1— casUe, 15— frith, 15, 212, 215, xiii. Elgin, 147, xiv. Ross, 281, 282, 434, 436, 460 Domock parish, iv. Dumfries, 256— vil- lage, 256, 257 Dorral bum, xiiL Elgin, 196 Dorrory, district of, xv. Caithness, 68 Dorus mor strait, viL Argyle, 47 Dosk, suppressed parish of, xi. Forfiur, 623 Double dikes camp, vL Lsmark, 471 Double hill, xi Forfitr, 597 Douchfour bum^ xiv. Inve rn es s ^ 4 — loch, 8 Douglas bum, vii. Argyle, 7, 8 Douglas bum, viiL Dunbarten, 94, 96, 234 Douglas parish, vL Lanark, 475— bum, 5, 31, 478, 479, 517, 519, 944-^casae, 478, 481, 487, 957— collieries, 480— mill, 478— tower, 788— town, 485, 489 Douglas bum, iii Selkirk, 46 Douglas mill, Sorn, v. Ayr, 143 Douglas moor, vi Lanarx, 327 Douglas property, xi Forfiur, 846 Douglas room, Stirling, viii Stirling, 404 Douglas tragedy, scene of, iii Selkirk, 46 Douglasbrae quarry, xiii. Banff, 390 Douglaspark house, vi Lanark, 784, 958 Douglastewn mills, xi Forfitf, 218, 224— village, 225 Douloob, fit Argyle, 5— eislle^ 25 VOL. XV, Doon hill of Criech, xv. Sutherland, 18 Doun hill of Duneam, xiii Nairn, 9% Doun hill of Inveraochty, xii. Aberdeen, 544 Doun hill of Luss, viii Dunbarton, 231 Doun hill of Relugas, xiii. Elgin, 185 Doun hill of Roxbuif^ iii Roxburgh, 128 Doune castle, x. Perth, 1227, 1229— vil- lage, 1240 Doune, farm of, viii. Dunbarton, 94 Doune house, xiii Elgin, 141 Doum'eston bleachfield, v. Ayr, 318 Dour bum, xii Aberdeen, 258, 260 Doura colliery, v. Ayr, 813, 829— village, 829 Doury bum, xi Kincardine, 304 Dovan, see Devon Dove cave, xiii Banff, 179 Dovecot, sprinff at, viii Stirling, 147 Dovecotamins hill, ii Berwick, 199 Dovecothall village, &c vii Renfrew, 190, 200, 249, 330, 336 Dovecotwood house, viii Stirling, 148 Doveran, see Deveron Dovesland village, vii Renfrew, 200 Dow glen, vii. Ar^jyle, 474 Dow well, iii Peebles, 26 Dowal loch, xiv. Ross, 107 Dowally parish, x. Perth, 993 — ^bura and village, 995. 996 Dowalton loch, iv. Wigton, 11, 22, 24, 41 Dowalty hill, xi Kincardine, 326 Dowglen bum, iv. Dumfries, 430 Dowhill ferm, v. Ayr, 352 Dowhill house, ix. Kinross, 41 Dowie dens of Yarrow, the, iii Selkirk, 46 Dowloch of Penpont, iv. Dumfries, 504 Down hill, ii Haddington, 71 Down hill, x. Per«i, 1017 Down hill of Fmtry, viii Stirling, 41 Downan bridge, &c. xiii Banff, 133, 139 Downans hills, v. Ayr, 496 Downby, remains at, xv. Orkney, 58 Downeas harbour, xi Kincardine, 178, 184 Downfield Mil, camp on, ix. Fife, 105 Downie castle, xiv. Invemess, 496 Dowaie head, xi. Kincardine, 214 Downie hills, xi Forfkr, 485 Downiepark house, xi Forfru-, 199 Downies village, xi Kincardine, 184 Dowry bum, xi Kincardine, 299, 304 Draffim castle, ix. Fi«B, 365 Dragon hole, x. Perth, 935, 1207 Drainie parish, xiii. Elgin, 145 Drakemire, the, xi Forfar, 294 Drakemire village, v. Ayr, 220 Dranandrow moor, remains on, iv. Wig- ton, 233 Dream of Glass, xiv. Invemess, 488 Dreel bum, ix. Fife, 339, 612, 616 Dreghom castle, i Edinburgh, 108, 120 Dreghom parish, v. Ayr, 523 — villa^ie^ 526 I)Te\g|K w«to. Vi. 'ftwcm^.Va ^"^^ 1 aSKEBAL INDEX. Drem, barony of, il Haddington, 46— re- mains at, 50 Dreva, moat at, vi. Lanark, 362 Drimachter forest, xiv. InTemeaB, 420 Drimcavil flax mill, vi Lanark, 401 Drimcudden property, xiv. Rosb, 48 Drimdriiaaig hou§e, vii Aigyle, 262 Drimmashie moor, xiv. Inverness, 514 Drimmie house, xi Forfer, 608 Drimmie forest, x. Perth, 908— house, 408— snabs, 406 Drimmies hiU, xii. Aberdeen, 677 Drimniin castle, vii. Argyle, 184 Drimree, battle of, vii. Argjle, 51 Drimsynie house, vii. Arg}'Ie, 712 Drimvuick house, vii. Argyle, 501 Drimyeonb^ bay, >'ii. Argyle, 396 Diinlea, battle at, xv. Sutherland, 18 Drip bridge, viii. Stirling, 322 Dripps property, vii. Renfrew, 495 Prochaid an aogh rocks, xiv. Roas, 281 prochil castle, iii. Peebles, 137, 161 Droichholes castle, iii. Peebles, 161 Droichsbiun, xii. Aberdeen, 1105 Dron parish, x. Perth, 862 — chapel, 408 —hill, 406 Drongan collieries, v. Ayr, 1 17, 638, 639 —house, &c. 641, 643 — mains, 642 Drongs rock, xv. Shetland, 71 Dronly bum and village, xi. Forfar, 649 —plantations, 653 Dronochy cross, x. Perth, 1173, 1174 Druidhm of Glass, the, xiv. Inverness, 488 Druidil>eg loch, xiv. Inverness, 185 Druid's bridge, vii. Arjj} le, 98 Druid's hill, iii. Peebles, 146 Druid's stone, vii. Renfrew, 367 Druie water, xiii. Elgin, 138 Druimadc'obhan, tnulition regarding, xiv. Inverness, 468 Druimadhiuiipuil, remains at, xiv. Inver- ness, 56 Druimnacoup, caims at, xv. Sutherland, 176 Druimnan caiman, the, xiv. Ross, 146 Drum bum, viii. Stirling, 148— fort, 268 Drum fort, xii. Aberdeen, 887— hill, 873 —house, 888— loch, 875, 876— pro- perty, 888 Drum house, i. Edinburgh, 1 1 Drum loch, xi. Kincardine, 325 Dmm moss, viii. Dunbarton, 183 Drum of Kinnell, xL Forfar, 399 Dmm of Knockman, iv. Kirkcudbright, Dmmachargan hill, x. Perth, 725 Drumalbin hill, vl Lanark, 518, 520 Dmmaw camp, ii. Berwick, 1 34 Dmmbeg house, viii. Stirling, 291 Dmmbej;, remains found at, v. Ayr, 366* Dmmbeg rock, x. Perth, 351 Dmmblade parish, xii. Aberdeen, 297 Dmmblair house, xii. Aberdeen, 601 li«»«^broider hill, viii. Stirling, 209 hurle plantations, v. Ayr, 384 Drumbum village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 253 Drumcarro hill, ix. Fife, 304, 520 Dmmchatt, battle at, xiv. Ross, 255 Dmmclie loch, x. Perth, 673, 1003 Dmmclog, battle of, v. Ayr, 837, vL La- nark, 304 Drumcoth law, xi. Forfar, 314 Drumcottran tower, i v. Kirkcudbright, 220 Drumderfit farm, xiv. Ross, 60— hill, 384 Drumderg hill, xv. Sutherland, 191 Drumdouan, remains at, xii Aberdeen, 1059— house, 1094 Drumdow, coal at, v. Ayr, 639 Dmmdriy bum, xv. Caithness, 131 Drumduan house, xiii. Elgin, 1 68 Drumfin house, vii. Arg)'le, 355 Drumgeith property, xi. ForfiM*, 21 Drumglye village, xi. Forfar, 347 Drumdoon, cave at, v. Bute, 49 Drumin castle, &c. xiii. Banff, 125, 133 Druminner house, &c. xii. Aberdeen, 409, 4U Drumkilbo house, x. Perth, 235 Drumlamford house, v. Ayr, 529 Dmmlanrig castle, &c. iv. Dumfries, 306, 322, 327, 502, 503, 506 Drumlaw, tumulus at, vi. I^anark, 383 Drumlawhinnie cairn, iv. Kirkcudbright, 131 Drumley house, v. Ayr, 757 Drumley sands, xi. Forfar, 540 Drumlithie village, xi. Kincardine, 25, 168 Drumlochan burn, xiii. Nairn, 27 Drumlochy castle, x. Perth, 915 Drumloft*, Roman road at, iv. Dumfries, 475 Drummellan, remains at, v. Ayr, 353 Dmmnielzier parish, iii. Peebles, 71— place, 73 Drummidoon cliffs, v. Bute, 41 Drummietermon village, xi. Forfar, 152 Dmmmillan park colliery, viii Stirling, 242 Dnimmilling property, v. Ajt, 255 Dnimmine forest, xiii. Elgin, 178 Dmmmochy village, ix. Fife, 442 Drummond castle, x. Perth, 320, 321 — gardens, 317— hiU, 532 — house, 497 —loch, 314 Drummond hills, xiv. Inverness, 418 Drummossie moor, xiv. Inverness, 514 Drumnadrochit inn, xiv. Inverness, 38 Dmmnamurg property, xiv. Ross, 65 Drumnod, remains found at, ix. Fife, 544 — farm, 551 Dmmoak parish, xii. Aberdeen, 872 Drumore loch, v. Ayr, 493 Dcumore bav, iv. Wigton, 201 — castle, 201, 208— property, 205— village, 200, 201,215 Dmmpellier collieries, &.c. vi. Lanark, 644, 648 Dmmquhaple park, viii. Stirling, 102 Dmmrack hill, ix. Fife, 942 Dmmry chapel, viii. Dunbarton, 48 QKBEBAL INDEX. li Drum's cairn, xli. Aberdeen, 425 Drum's stone, xii. Aberdeen, 882, 1098 Drumsargart castle and property, vi La- nark, 425, 429 Drumshang, renuuns found at, v. Ayr, 366 — ^improvements at, 369 Drumsharg barony, vi. Lanark, 425 Drumshorlan moor, il. Linlithgow, 87 Drumsleed wood, xi. Kincardine, 77 Drumsturdy village, xi. Forfar, 549 Drumsuy chapel, v. Ayr, 655 — property, 653 — quarry, 659 Drumtochty castle, xi. Kincardine, 72, 77,88 Drumvaich village, x. Perth, 1240 Drumyellow quarry, xi. Forfar, 495 Drunkie house, x. Perth, 1108 — loch, 1097,1151 Dry harbour, xiv. Inverness, 219 Dry borough property, viiL Stirling, 120 Dryburgh abbey, iii. Roxburgh, 104, iL Berwick, 27— bridge, 31 Dry burn, remains at, xiii. Elgin, 119 Dry bum water, iL Haddington, 71 Dryfe water, iv. Dumfries, 170, 171, 378, 451, 452, 537 Dryfeholm, Roman road at, iv. Dumfries, 184 Dryfesands, battle of, iv. Dumfries, 158, 340, 453 Dryfesdale, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 451 Dr3rfesdale gate, camp at, iv. Dumfries, 454 Drygrange bridge, ii. Berwick, 32, iii. Rox- burgh, 142 Dryhope bum, iii. Selkirk, 38 — ^tower, 46 Dryine mineral spring, xiv. Ross, 215 Dr^nnen parish, viii. Stirling, 99 — village, 102, 110— bridge, Dunbarton, 213, 217 Drynie property, xiv. Ross, 59 Drysdale, see Dryfesdale Dualt glen, viii. Stirling, 61 Duard head, xiv. Ross, 74 Duart bay, vii. Argyle, 281 — castle, 286 Dubbs, remains at, v. Ayr, 454 — water, 692 Dubbs water, vii. Renfrew, 82, 538 Dubbyaide village, ix. Fife, 274 Dubs caldron fall, iv. Dumfries, 140 Duchall house, viL Renfrew, 47, 58— 'Wa* ter, 57 Duchoille castle, vii. Argyle, 96 Duchrae house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 1 84 Duchray colliery, v. Ayr, 651 Duchray hill and loch, x. Perth, 995 — — water, 1152 Duchray water, viii. Stirling, 101— castle, 102 Duckpool, the, iii. Peebles, 86 Ducraig isle, ix. Fife, 827, 828 Duddingston parish, i. Edinburgh, 381-^ church, 388— cottage, 390— house, 389 —loch, 382, 620— villages, 388, 390, 393 Duddingston house, ii. Linlithgow, 27 Dudhope castle, xl Forfar, 21 Dud*s well, vi. Lanark, 565 Dudwick house, xii. Aberdeen, 906 Duff bum, iv. Dumfries, 152 Duff house and grounds, xii Aberdeen, 278, xiii Banff, 3, 14, 32 Dufilown limeworks, xiii. Banff, 127— village, 106, 108 Duifris parish, xiii. Elgin, 33— castle, 33, 36— Rmiic stone, 248— village, 38, 40 Dugalstone loch and grounds, viii. Dun- barton, 37, 40 — property, 45 Dugden moss, ii. Berwick, 41, 42 Duglas bum, viii. Dunbarton, 156 Duich ferry, xiv. Invemess, 140 Duich loch, xiv. Ross, 170, 181, 182, 185 Duirinish parish, xiv. Inverness, 322 Duirinish isle, vii. Argyle, 469 Duke^ bowling green, viiL Dunbarton, 106 Duke's hospital, vi. Lanark, 291 Dulcie bridge, &c. xiii. Nairn, 27, 32 Dule tree of Cassilis, v. Ayr, 499 Dull parish, x. Perth, 752— abbey, 765— rock, 753— village, 770 DuIIarg, spring at, iv. Kirkcudbright, 282 DuUatur bog, viii. Dunbarton, 141, 142, StirUng, 1 40 Dullen water, xiii. Banff, 103, 110 Dulnan bum and valley, xiii. Banff, 1 1 2» Elgin, 124, 125 Dulnanside forest, xiii. Elgin, 12& Dulzellowlie colliery, v. Ajrr, 785 Dumbarrow hill, xi. Forfi&r, 142, 144 Dumbarton, see Dunbarton Dumbennan, ancient parish of^ xii. Aber- deen, 1036 Dumbie's knowe, coins found at, x. Perth^ 177 Dumb Laird's tower, viii. Stirling, 81 Dumbriels law, x. Perth, 953 Dumbroch bleachfield and house, viiL Stirling, 82— loch, 73 Dumbuck hill, viiL Dunbarton, 17, 36— village, 29 Dumcneff bridge, iv. Dumfries, 135 — plantations, 110 Dumfin, remains found at, viii. Dunbar- ton, 159, 161 Diunfoyn hill, viii. Stirling, 81 Dumfries house, v. Ayr, 324, 482 Dumfries parish and town, iv. Dumfries, 1 — castle, 5 Dumfriesshire, observations on, iv. Dum- fries, 567 Dumglow hill, ix. Kinron, 38 — camp on, 41 Dumgoyn hill, viii. Stirlii^, 81 Dumgree, suppressed parish of, iv. Dum- fries, 133, 151 Dun parish, xL Forfar, 123 — house, 125 Dun of Boreland, iv. Kirkcudbright, 53 Dun of Castletown, iiL Roxburgh, 441 Dun of Dull, X. Perth, 768 Dun of Farr, xv. Sutherland, 66 Dun of Fintry, viii. Stirling, 41 aEBBBAL UIDKX. Dun of Kilinorie, *. Bute, 51 Dun of Maxwelton, iv. Dumfiiu, 473 Dun of Muck, liv. Invmi«», Ijl Dun of Relugaa, liii. Klgin, lU.i DunofTynron,iv, Ilumfrifla, 473,474 Dunwhton property, xiv. Inierntat, B6 — quanj, 84 Dnnagoil ba;. t. Bute, 83 " *,e70 Dunallucug, ut. Rom, 448 Dunan head, lir. Rna, 74 DuDan Aula, TJL JUgj)e, 63 Donan bruaig, vlL Arple, 68 I>unaQ Ranooch, battle at, x. IVfth, 646 Dunaiu hooae, rii. Ar^li!, 673 Dunarilu7 hill, til Argyle, 633 Dunavcrty bay, vii. Ar^le, 414— CMUe, 423-rill»ge. 431 Dunbiin, liir, Invtmma, li3 Dunbar puidi and town, a. Haddiiwton, ro^baitlca of, J5, 22i— cutla, 74, 77 — church, tS — hoiuc, 80 Dnbamy faiiab, x. Perth, 7S0—nIiage, DunlNirplncaii;. xi/, liivcmcH, Jtili DunlmiTowliJII, iL Potfiir, ii Dimbjutxin puriah and town, viiL Dun- barton, 1— eaatle, 2, 4_moor, 21S— quarries, 3 Dunborton»liire,obBerYHtionBOn, viiL Dun- barton, 2'20 Dunbeath caitle, xv. Caithntw, 91_fiih- erie*, 101 — property, HI!, 99 water and Hrath, tl4, 8G Dunbhmmcrain, the, liv. Inverness, 26C Dunblane parish, x. Perth. 103H— cathe- dral, 1040— spring, 1U3H DunbochaMtil, ruini of, i. Perth, 354 Dunbog patJah, in. Fifis, 205— property and bouM, 2118 Dunborvoraig, the, vii. Argjle, 670 Duncanlaw chapel, iL Haddington, UB " Duncnnsbav.iv. Csithniw, 23— hMd,&c •*.— Boare, aa Duncan's height, xv. Orkney, I7fl Duncan ■» shade, li. Kineaniine, 36 Dun Chulovray, in. Una, 163 Dunehifie, »iL Argj'le, 4U0 l>unthuiiiich hiti, viL Argrk', ■J—ttiit on, I>un™l property, is. DumtVica.67 Duncomb bill, liil Dunbnrton, 17 Dunciiir bum, ir. Dumfries, 64 — pro- perty, J7— village. «S Duncruil hnuc, x. Perth, 716 Duiicruin hill, tiil Duiiharliin, 212 Duncruire village, ». Perth, 881 Duncrj-ne hill, viii, Uunloiton, BI2 Dunda/ hnn, vL Lanikrk, 5 Dundnfl" hills, viii. Stirling. 38, .ll)4_]nth *nuntiunn, jemains On, v. Bute, 24 Dun Fordii farm, xi. Foc&r, 621 Dunpvel liill, vi. Luiark, 93, 30 1 Dnngeardal fbrta, xiv. Invemea, S6 Dungeon loch, iv. Kirkcudhrigjit, 1 10 Dungeon of Douglas, vi Lanark, 468 DuogUas bum, ii. Haddington, 357 _ bridgea, Berwick, 31 1— dran, 2U1. 298, 300— <»mp at, 303— houieand wood*, 301, 3U3 Dunglais castle, viii. Dun barton, 22 Dunglass hill, viii. Stirling, ta Dungoioh hill, viii. Stirling, 72— standina stones, 82 Dungyle hill, i>. Kirkcudbright, 145 fort, 153 Dunhead of Cannvhe, li. Forfcr, 368 Dunian hill, iil, Kuilmrgh, 1 , 2UU, 283,46'ii. Renfrew, 520 Easter Saxon, forts at, vi. Lanark, 68 Easter Skene house, xii. Aberdeen, 1097 Eastertown hill, xii. Aberdeen, 316 Eastfield house, vi. Lanark, 94 — quarries, 378 QENBRAL INDEX. Iv East Forfar Agricultural Association, xi. Forfar, 136,411 EaM Forton property, ii. Haddington, 45 East Fowlis property, xii. Aberdeen, 1110 Easthaven village, xi For&r, 70, 71 East head of Portsoj, xiii. Banff, 179 East inch of Grangemouth, viii. Stirling, 26 East isle of Burra, xt. Shetland, 9 East Kilbride parish, vi. Lanark, 877 — village, 879, 889, 893, 898 East Kilpatrick parish, viii. Dunbarton, 36 East Linton village, ii. Haddington, 231 East Lomond hill, ix. Fife, 922, 930 East Lothian Agricultural Society, ii. Haddington, 120 East Luthrie quarry, ix. Fife, 661 East mains of Dunnichen, battle of, xi. Forfar, 146 Eastmains of Dunbac, geology of, iL Had- dington, 73 Eastmains of Ballencrieff limeworks, ii Linlithgow, 153 East Machan colliery, vi. Lanark, 723 East Mathers limeworks, xi. Kincardine, 289 East mill of Brechin, xi. Forfar, 134 East mill of Currie, copper ore at, i. Edin- burgh, 545 East miU, improvements at, ix. Kinross, 48 East Monkland parish, vi. Lanark, 242 East Morriston property, ii. Berwick, 352 East Morriston village, vL Lanark, 652 East Muirhouse property, vii. Renfrew, 395 East Nemphlar chapel, vi. Lanark, 15 East Nisbet chapel, &c. ii. Berwick, 269, 276 Easton, spring at, vi Lanark, 65 East Paiston village, ii. Haddington, 142 East Pitcorthie, remains at, ix. Fife, ^76 Eiist PortjjMoorf Mcra parish of, ix. Fife, 765 East Salton village, ii. Haddington, 108, 116,121 Eastside district, xiv. Inverness, 240 Eastsidewood collieries, vi Lanark, 77 East Tarbet bay, iv. Wigton, 201 East Third village, iii Roxburgh, 142 East Waterland, limestone at, v. Ayr, 291 East Wemyss village, ix. Fife, 398, 400 Eastwood parish, vii. Renfrew, 33 Eathack loch, x. Perth, 541 Ebrie water, xii. Aberdeen, 90, 963 Ebtie parish, ix. Fife, 47 — church, 51 Ecclefechan, annexed parish of, iv. Dum- fries, 289— coal at, 291— village, 294 Eccles parish, ii. Berwick, 60 — abbey and nunnery, 57 — house, 56 — quarry, 52 — village, 56 Eccles quarry, iv. Dumfries, 501 Ecclesgreig, or St C3rru8, parish oi^ xi Kincardine, 269 Ecclesmachan parish, ii Linlithgow, 109 Echlin moor, Roman road at, i. Edin- burgh, 590 Echt parish, xii Aberdeen, 735— house &c. 738, 739 Eck loch, vii Ai^rle, 104, 571, 678 Eckford parish, iii. Roxburgh, 220~vil- lage, 223, 232— tower, 223 Eday heads, xv. Orkney, 121 — isle, 86, 115, 157— sound, 157 Edderachillis parish, xv. Sutherland, 118 Eddersly house, vii. Renfrew, 6, 12, 19 Edderton sands, xiv. Ross, 283 Eddertown parish, xiv. Ross, 433 — bum, 437— hill, 434 Eddlestone parish, iii Peebles, 146 — vil- lage, 148— -water, 1, 2 Eden castle, xii. Aberdeen, 277 — house, 278 Eden river, ii. Berwick, 19, 33, 67, 215, 224, 349, iii Roxburgh, 419, 460 Eden river, ix, Fife, 1, 2, 22, 102, 218, 450, 454,474,517,659,720,771 Edenham, see Ednam Edenkillic parish, xiii. Elgin, 178 Edenshead village, ix. Fife, 779 Edensmuir, ix. Fife, 31 Edenston village, ix. Fife, 30 Edenwood house, ix. Fife, 525 Ederham church, ii Berwick, 274 Ederlin loch, vii Aigyle, 677 Edgbucklin brae, i Edinburgh, 278 Edgar, port, ii. Linlithgow, 2 Edgarhope wood, ii. Berwick, 3 Edgemoor, school at, iv. Dumfries, 166 Edge moss, vi Lanark, 322 Edgerston, remains found at, iii. Rox- burgh, 13--rigg, 3 — house, 14 EdinhKBlly property and house, viii. Stii^ ling, 104,290, 291 Edinburgh, city of, i. Edinburgh, 614— > castle, 622 Edinburgh and Glasgow railway, i Edin- burgh, 98, 755, viii. Dunbarton, 151, 211, Stirling, 33, 198,211, 213— and Dalkeith railway, 755 — and Leith rail- way, ib, Edinburghshire, observations on, i. Edin- burgh, 783 Edincaple hill, x. Perth, 345 — castle^ 347 Edinchip hill, x. Perth, 345 Edingight property, xiii. Bcmff, 216 Edinglassie house, xii. Aberdeen, 547 Edinken^s bridge, ii. Haddington, 242 Edinkillie, school at, xiii. Elgin, 227 Edinshall, ii Berwick, 252 Edintore house, xiii Banff, 388 Edinvillie daugh, xiii. Banff, 1 1 1 Ediewood frurm, vi. Lanark, 269 Edmonds dean, ii. Berwick, 291 Edmonston house, vi. Lanark, 364 Edmonstone colliery, i Edinburgh, 250, 559, 660, 570, 575— house, 661— pro- perty, 563 — village, 570, 575 Ednam parish, iii. Roxburgh, 419 — hill, i5.— house, 320— village, 423 Edradour cascade, x. Perth, 640 Ivi 08VKEAL m>lZ. EdringUm caitle, ii Berwick, 84 1 —home, 340 Edrom poriib, ii Berwick, 266— bonie, 271 Edzell pariah, xi. Forftr, 621— CMUe, 622 —village, 624 E^en, see Ojrne Effbck water, xl Forftr, 192 Kgg isle* tee Eigg Eggemew point, ir. Wigton, 23, 24 — castle, 29 Eghtac loch; xiv. InvemeH, 463, 467 Eglinton cartle, ▼. Ayr, 811, 812, 815, 826— collierj, 813 — tournament, 825 Eglifhay isle, xr. Orkney, 116 Eglismonichty chapeL, xi For&r, 541 Egrop wood, ii Berwick, 3 Egsmalee church, ix. Fife, 810 Eich, Ben, viii Dunbarton, 231 Eigg island, xit. Invemeas, 145, 150 Eilloch, xiv. Invemen, 118 Eilafitz rock, iv. Wigton, 131 Eillan and Eilein, see Elian Eildon hilla, iii Roxburgh, 34, 35, 41, 51,52 Eilean loch, xiii. Elgin, 137, 138 Eilena garroch rock, iv. Wigton, 131 Eire water, xiv. Inverness, 101 Eishart loch, xiv. Invemen, 317 Elandonnan castle, xiv. Invemen, 257 Elbottle nunnery, ii Haddington, 21 1 Elchaig glen, xiv. Ross, 170 — water, 172 Elchies hou«e, xiii Elgin, 61 Elcho castle and nunnery, x. Perth, 362 Elderslie, coal at, vii Renfrew, 153^ house, 195— village, 190, 200, 249 Kidrig hilL, vi. Lanark, 878, 879 Elein, see Elian Elf hillock, xiii. Banff, 226 Klf houae of Dalrv, v. Ayr, 211 Elf kirk, xiii. Banff, 2, 5 Elgerith property, vi. Lanark, 854 Elgin collieries, ix. Fife, 830, 835 Elgin parish and town, xiii. Elgin, 1— ca- thedral, 6 — institution, 8, 24 Elginnhire, obsorvations on, xiii Elgin, 257 Elhardholm chapel, xv. Orkney, 80 Elibank caHtle, iii. Selkirk, 45--tower, 63 Elie parish, ix. Fife, 278— house, 287— village and harbour, 280, 289 Eliock house, &c. iv. Dumfries, 298, 305, 306 K'Liston tower, i Edinbuigh, 138 KUachie, see Craig Ellachie Klliin isle, vii Argyle, 661 Kilan Aigas, xiv. lavemcss, 488 Kllun an Righ, xiv. Inverness, 423 Pllhin ChaiHtal, xiv. Inverness, 145 Elian Cholium cille, xiv. Inverness, 258 Ellandhcirreg ca«tle, vii. Argyle, 1 1 1 EUun-duiraish, vii Argyle, 469 Ellan-fiida, vii. Argyle, 259 EUan-finnan church, viL Argyle, 147 *n-ghininhich, xiv. Invemess, 145, 149 Ml., EUaa-M, m. InvenMi, 826 EUan-locb-oicar, vii. Aigyle, 230 EUan-maiee, xiv. Ron, 91 EUan-mote, vii Aigyk, 198; 3521— dnircli, 262 Ellan-monde^ andmt parish ol^ viL Aigjle^ 223 EUan-nargaeil, xv. Sutherland, 168 Ellan-na-leek, vii Aigyle, 259 Elian-na-momoch, xiv. Invemen^ 169 Ellan-na-mukk, vii Ai^Ie, 259 Ellan-na-naormh, xv. Sutherland, 167 Ellan-nan-con, xiv. Inveroesi, 423 Ellan-nan-Oobhar fort, vii Argrte, 145 EUan-na-roan, xv. Sutherland, 167, 170 Elian- no*n- Each, xiv. Invemen, 145 EUanreach houae, xiv. Invemen, 135 Ellieston plantationi, iii Roxbuigh, 106 Ellim, annexed parish of,ii Berwick, 93 ElUnorton village, xi Fcv&r, 185 Elliot water, xi Forfar, 332, 352 Elliston castle, vii Renfirew, 95 Ellon parish, xii Aberdeen, 899— castle, .905— village, 904, 922, 923 Ellrig loch, viii Stirlmg, 275 Ellsrig hill, vi. Lanark, 367, 369 Elmscleuch, rocks at, ii. Haddington, 235 FJot water, xi Forfiu-, 332, 352 Elphinston house, i Edinburgh, 279 Elphinston collierv, ii Haddington, 288 —property, 291— tower, 283, 293— vil- lage, 299 Elphinston colliery, viii Stirling, 345 Elrick house, &c. xii Aberdeen, 1027, 1030 Elrig muir, vi. Lanark, 315 Eb-ock bum, viii Stirling, 145, 146 Elsher's cairn, xv. Caithness, 138 Elshieshields house, &c iv. Dumfiies, 379, 383 Elsick house, &c. xi. Kincardine, 253, 259 — water, 245 Elsness, district of, xv. Orkney, 133 — re- mains at, 136 Elsrickle property, vi. Lanark, 854 — val- ley, 847, 848— village, 849, 860, 862 Elsrig hill, vi. Lanark, 61 Elswick harbour, xv. Orkney, 79 Eltri goe, xv. Caithness, 118 Elvingston houae and property, ii Had- dington, 176, 192 Embo quarry, xv. Sutherland, 2, 3, 11 — village, 8, 1 1 Endrick water, viii. Dunbarton, 21 1, 21 3 — Stiriing, 39, 60, 61, 89, 100, 289— agricultural club, 297 English hill, xiv. Invemess, 484 Enhallow isle,, xv. Orkney, 83^ 196 — sound, 197 Enneric water, xiv. Invemess, 37, 39 Ennenirie, see Inverurie Ennerwick, see Innerwick Ennich glen, xiii. Elgin, 137— loch, f5. 138 Enoch, remains at, v. Ayr, 360 OENSBAL INDEX. Ivii Enock house, &c. iv. Dumfrtes, 326 Enrick, moat at, iv. Kirkcudbright, 298 Eiirick water, aee Endrick Ensay isle, xiv. InvemesB, 155 Enterkin water, iv. Dumfries, 323 Enterkin house, v. Ayr, 757 Enterkins Yett, i Edinburgh,' 547 Enzie, district of^ riiL Banff, 245 — quoad aacra pansh, 122, 264 Enziehokn, remains at, iy. Dumfries, 433 Eolan water, vii Aigyle, 479 Eoligary house, xiv. Inverness, 208 Eorsa isle, vii. Aigyle, 297, 301 ErchlesB, davoch o^ xiv. Inverness, 484 —castle, 485 Ercildown, see Earlston Eregie hoase, xiv. Inverness, 373 Eriboli loch, XV. Sutherland, 83, 85, 87 Erichkie water, x. Perth, 560 Eiicht loch, xiv. Inverness, 420 Erichtglen, x. Perth, 898— water, 239, 240, 898,901,904, 1110, 1111,1177, 1180 Eridine house, vii. Aigyle, 373 Erinis house, vii. Argyle, 262 £risca isle, xiv. Inverness, 182 — sound, 193 Eriska isle, vii Argrle, 4?69 Erisovt k>0fa, xiv. Ross, 158, 159 Ennit water, i. Edinburgh, 408 Ernan water, xii. Aberdeen, 530 Emcrags loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 191 Erne river, see Findhom Ernes cleugh, iiL Roxburgh, 210 Emsheuch, camp at, ii. Berwick, 284 Errickstane vale, iv. Dumfries, 205 Errochd loch, xiv. Inverness, 65, x. Perth, 539— water, 540 Errol parish, x. Perth, 367— park, 869, 372— village, 368, 372, 887 Erskine pariw, vii. Renfrew, *500 — castle, i6. — ferry, •521— iiouse, •SOI, ^604, -•506, ^512, 'SIS Ervary hiU, vii Aigyle, ^32 Esk loch, xi Forfar, 199, 436 Esk river, iv. Dumfries, 246, 362, 398, 416, 417,430,483,484 Esk, North and South, rivers, i. Edin- buigh, 30, 31, 49, 68, 154, 174, 246, 249, 324, 337, 338, 458, 558, 608, iii. Peebles, 146, 156, 176 Esk, North and South, rivers, 3q. Forfiu*, 110, 116, 123, 129, 130, 165, 192, 198, 246, 254, 263,264, 270, 27^ 289, 292, 298, 299, 436, 437, 619, 520, 624, 625, 664, Kincardine, H2 Eskadale chapel, xiv. Inverness, 370<» house, 488 Eskbank house, i. Edinburgh, 496 Eskdale, district of, iv. Dumfries, 567 Eskdale village, xiv. Inverness, 487 Eskdale and Liddisdale fieumerS' society, iii Roxburgh, 445, iv. Dumfries, 498 Eskdalemuir parish, iv. Dumfries, 398 Eskdalemuir pen hill, iv. Dumfries, 398 Eslemont house, xii Aberdeen, 905 VOL. XV. Eslie, Druidical remains at, xi. Kincar- dine, 336 Eslin ^en, iv. Dumfries, 337 Espedair water, vii Renfrew, 147 Espig glen, v. Bute, 46 Esragan water, vii Aigyle, 479 En of Olen Latterach, xiii. Elgin, 196 Esscumhan water, v. Bute, 42 Esse forse fiUl, vii Aigyle, 350 Essenside loch, iii Roxbuigh, 269 Esset water, xii. Aberdeen, 442 Essich, marl pits at, xiv. Inverness, 22 Essie, suppressed paridi of, xii AberdeeOi 1015 Essil, suppressed parish of, xiii. Elgin, 51 Essmore water, v. Bute, 42 Ethie bum, xiv. Ross, 3, 349 Ethie house, xi Forfiir, 241 Ethiebeaton chapel, xi Forfiu*, 542 Ethiehaven village, xi. Forfiur, 242 Etive glen, vii Ai^^le, 473 — loch, 475 — water, 478 EUrick bay, v. Bute, 96 Ettriek parish, iii Selkirk, 59— hall, 64— water, 2, 11, 36, 37, 60, 79— forest, 40, 42, 44, 63, i Edinburgh, 407 Ettrickbridge, village, &c. iii Selkirk, 30, 53 Ettrickpen hill, iv. Dumfries, 103, 398, iii Selkirk, 60 Euchar glen, vii Argyle, 62 — water, 62, 65 Eur water, xiv. Inverness, 101 Evan water, iv. Dumfries, 102|, 125 Evantown village, xiv. Ross, 322, 326 Evelaw house, ii. Berwick, 72 Evelick castle, x. Perth, 1164— hill an4 fort, 1163, 1164 Evie and Rendall, united parishes of, xv. Orkney, 196 Evigan bay, xv. Orkney, 157 Evluc water, &c. xv. Sutherland, 2, 3, 9 Ewe river and loch, xiv. Ross, 92 Ewes parish, ix. Dumfries, 487 — water, 416, 417, 429, 437 Ewes water, i Edinburgh, 403— castle, 405, 418 Ewesduris church, iv. Dumfries, 440 Eweside quarries, ii Berwick, 293 — ^hiH and camp, 303 Eye loch, xiv. Ross, 360 Eye water, ii Berwick, 131, 279,^92, 818, 319, 366 Eyebrochy isle, ii Haddington, 204 Eyemouth parish, ii. Berwick, 318— bay^ 132,319— town, 130,279,318^323,829, 830 Bynort loch, xiv. Inverness, 1 83, 195, 296 i^d isle, viii Dunbarton, 233 Fad loch, v. Bute, 82, 84, 99 Fada isle, vii Argyle, 259 Faich hill, cairn, &c xiii Banff, 97 Faifley bum, viii Dunbarton, n^miUs^ 23, 25— church, 81— -village, 29 Fail loch and water, v. Ayr, 748, 766— monastery, 748 h Iviii QBNE&AL INDEX. Failford monaitery, v. Ayr, 748 Fair isle, xv. Shetland, 93, 95 Fairbheinn hill, xv. Sutherland, 83 Fairbum tower, xiv. Rose, 401 Fairemheall hill, xv. Sutherland, 83 Fairfolk tumulus, xL Forfar, 358 Fairfort camps, viii. Stirling, 121 Fairley house, xiL Aberdeen, 238 Fairlie bum, v. Ayr, 246, 790— haxbour, 790— house and property, 678, 798 — ^ptoad sacra parish, 801 — village, 804 Fairholm bridge, vi. Lanark, 286 Fairloans, spring at, iiL Roxburgh, 254 Fairmile h^, cairn, &c. at, L ^inburgh, 119 Fairness, xiii. Nairn, 27 Faimeyside house, &c. ii. Berwick, 138 Faimielee plantations, iii. Selkirk, 16 Fair Sisters, tree called, I Edinburgh, 330 Fairway rock, ix. Fife, 828 Fairy bridge, fair at, xiv. Inverness, 356 Fairy flag of Mac1e(>d,xiv. Inverness, 337 Fairy castle, ii. Haddington, 235 Fairy hillock, xi. For&r, 358 Fala and Soutra, united parishes o^ L Edinburgh, 534 Fala hall, i. Edinburgh, 535 — moss, 536— village, 539 Fala water, iii. Peebles, 59 Faladam village, i. Edinburgh, 539 Falbey loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 282 Falcon stone, x. Perth, 832 Faldonside house, iii. Selkirk, 17 Faldshope hill, iii. Selkirk, 42 Falfcamie bum, xl Forfar, 436 Falfield colliery, ix. Fife, 322— house, 326 Falkirk parish and town, viii. Stirling, 1 -^battles of, 4, 7— ironworks, 17 — trysts, 21, 37, 377 Falkland, parish of, ix. Fife, 920 — castle, 926— house, 930— palace, 923— town, 937— wood, 923 Falligoe, xv. Caithness, 119 Fallin harbour, viii. Stirling, 306 Falloch water, viiL Dunbarton, 96^ 234, X. Perth, 1080— glen, 107 8 — loch, 1096, 1097 Falside house, L Edinburgh, 279 Falside house, xi. Kincardine, 24 Falside tower, ii. Haddington, 283, 292 Fan bum, iii Peebles, 39 Fancy farm house, viL Renfrew, 526 Fanellan school, xiv. Inverness, 501 Fankerton village, viii Stirling, 128, 132 Fanna hill, iii Roxburgh, 208 Fannich hill, xiv. Ross, 74, 75 — loch, 236 Fannyside loch, viii, Stirling, 275, Dun- barton 1 37 — moor, 1 37 — remainsat,! 42 Fans village, ii. Berwick, 21 ' Fare hill, xii. Aberdeen, 630, 735, 831, XL Kincardine, 324 Farkin bay and point, viiu Dunbarton, 95 Farme colliery, vi. Lanark, 378— house and property, 375, 376 ^arms property, xv. Sutherland, 9 Famell parish, xL For&r, 109 Famess village, xiv. Ross, 14 Famua, annexed parish of^ xiv. InTemeM, 459 Farout head, xv. Sutherland, 83, 87 Farquhar bum, xL Kincardine, 72 Fan* house and remains at, xiv. InTer- ness, 519 Farr parish, xv. Sutherland, 66— bay, 68 — ^head, 66 Farragon mount, x. Perth, 753 Farralarie loch, xv. Sutherland, 25 Farrar water, xiv. Inverness, 363, 487 Farskone chapel, xiii Banff, 254 Farskane's cave, xiii Banff, 255 Fas glen, v. Bute, 46 Fasl^n hill, xv. Sutherland, 88 Faskine colliery, &c. vi Lanark, 422, 645, 648 Faslane castle, viii. Dunbarton, 73, 75 — chapel, 75 Fasnacoil property, xiv. Inverness, 485— house and chapel, 370 Fasney water, ii Berwick, 249, Hadding- ton, 62, 360 Fasque house, xi Kincardine, 25, 114, 119— spring at, 112 Fassfem quarry, xiv. Inverness, 123 Fast castleSX. Knzean, caurn at, xiL Aberdeen, 78d— home, 793 Fiogfaan hill, x. Perth, 345 Fion, dan oC, xiv. InvemesB, 489 Fibnaven hiU, xv. Sutherland, 214 Vionnben hill, xt. Sutherland, 125 Pionnchaim castle, vii. Argyle, 683 Fir bum, xiii. Elgin, 196 Firebum mill, ii Berwick, 201 Firhall honae, xiil Nairn, 2 Firth of Clyde, see Clyde— of Forth, see Forth — of Tay, ice Tay, &c Firth and StennesB parish, xt. Orkney, 67 Firths voe, xt. Shetland, 57 Fisherrow town, i Edinbuigh, 249, 289, 294 Fishers Nooks, ruins at, ii, Haddington, 211 Fishwires* causeway, I Edinburgh, 389 Fishtown of Cullen, xiii; Ban£^ 342 Fishwick church, ii Berwick, 153 Fithie loch, xi For&r, 691— water, 378 FithiU, copper ore at, xt. Shetland, 93 Fittick'a bay and church, xi. Kincardine^ 200 Fittie loch, ix. Fife, 128, 174, 829 Fitty hill, XV. Orkney, 114, 126 Fladda isle, vii Afgyle, 340, xiv. Inrer- ness, 240 Fladdachuain isle, xiv. Invemeas, 240 — remains at, 265 Flanders moss, viii Stirling, 100^ Flannel isles, xiv. Ross, 151, 153 Flasheddor chapel, xiv. Inverness, 354 Flashes, battle of, i. Edinbuigh, 208 FlasB quarry, il Berwick, 66 Flat, spring at, iii. Roxburgh, 442 Flatt quarry, vi. Lanark, 299 Fleet bay, iv. Kirkcudbright, 373— lochs, 292— water, 291, 292, 374 Fleet water, xv. Sutherland, 3, 24, 25, 46, 48, 215 Flemington property, ii. Berwick, 1 37 Flemington* loch, xiv. Inverness, 380 — plantations, 387— remains at, 392 Flemington bum, iii. Peebles, 135, 136 Flemmington castle, xl Forfiir, 629 Flichity plantations, xiv. Inverness, 516 Flight, camps ut, iii. Roxburgh, 444 Flint hill, iii. Peebles, 121 Flisk parish, ix. Fife, 595_ehapel, 601 Fliskmillhill^ix. Fife, 601 Floats bay, iv. Wigton, 164 Floday water, xv. Sutherland, 47 Flodday isle and sound, xiv. Inverness, 200 Flodigarry house, xiv. Inverness, 246 Floors castle, iii. Roxburgh, 305, 306, 320 Floors, farm of, xiii. Banff, 217 Floors hill, \i. Lanark, 301 Floridon hill, vii. Renfrew, 503 Flotta isle, xv. Orkney, 71,75, 77 Flotta calf isle, xv. Orkney, 78 Fludha house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 25 Fochabers cross, xiii. FAgin, \V9— \\l\a%'e, JI.O, 120,122 \ Fodderlee, cairn a^ m. Roxbrngb, 213 Fodderty parish, xiv. Ron, 244 Foffiurty chapel, xL Forfiur, 216 Fogo parish, ik Berwick, 223— Tillage^ 226, 229 Foinnebhehm hill, xt. Sutherland, 83 Foirbeg, remarkable tree at, zIy. Inw- nesB, 55 Follart loch, xiv. Inverness, 323 Folly castle, xii. Aberdeen, 819 Font stone of Manner, iii Peeblei^ 117 Foodie hill, ix. Fife, 770 Foola rocks, xv. Shetland, 145 Fopachy harbour, xiv. InTemen,. 461 Forbes castle, xii Aberdeen, 949 — pro- perty, 445 Forbes, annexed parish of, xii Aberdeeo, 439 Ford village, i Edinbiii]gh, 183 Ford of Dye, the, xi Kincardine, 239 Ford of Frew, the, viii Stirling, 52 Fordarroch moss, xiv., Invemen, 516 Fordel colUeries, ix. Fife, 182 Fordel square, viliage o^ ix. Fife^ 18^ Forder bum, xi.. Kincardine, 304 Fordoun psoish, xi Kincardine^ 66 — house, 72, 85, 88->viUage, 69 Fordyce parish, xiii Ban^. 178— Ihuh and hill, 179— vilhige^ 190 Forehill, Roman road at, v. Ayr, 39 Forehobn isle, xv. Shetland, 100 Foreman hill, xii Aberdeen, 599 Fore ness, xv. Shethmd, 100^ 103 Forest of Alyth, x. Perth, 1111 Forest of Athol, x. Perth, 562 Forest of Balnagown, xiv. Ross, 403, 404 Forest of Birse, xii Aberdeen, 787 — castle, 792 Forest of Boyn, xiii Banff, 220 Forest of Drimmie, x. Perth, 906 Forest of Ettrick, i Edinbui^, 407, iii Selkirk, 40, 42, 44, 63 Forest of Gaick, xiv. Inverness, 65 Forest of Glenavon, xiii Banff, 297 Forest of Lewis, xiv. Ross, 157 FoKst of Mar, xii. Aberdeen, 649 Forest of Platon, xi Forfer, 294 Forester's seat, xi Forfer, 294 Forestmill village, viii Clackmannan, 1 36 Forewood water, i. Edinbuigh, 362 For&r parish and town, xi. Foriar, 691— castle, 693, 695— loch, 338, 691 Forfar and Arbroath railwav, xi Forfar, 390, 609, 697 Forfarshire, observations on, xi Forfar, 703 Forge house, iv. Dumfries, 491— orchards, 488 Forge tree, iv. Kirkcudbright, 202 Forgan parish, ix. Fife, 505 Forgandenny parish, x. Perth, 948^vil- l^e, 955 Forglcn parish, xiii. Bonfl^ 83— hoHss QENEBAL INDBZ* 1x1 Forgue parish, xii Aberdeen, 598 — bum, 599 Forinch isle, viii Dunbarton, 233 Forkens ironworks, vi. Lanark, 78 Formal! hill, xi. For&r, 636 Formartine Agricultural Association, ziL Aberdeen, 920 Fometh house, x. Perth, 1025 Fomighty school, xiiL Nairn, il Forres parish, xiii Elgin, 159 — bum, 162 —castle, 165— house, 167~-pillar, 165, 246— town, 164, 168, 173 Forresthill property, viii. Stirling, 118 Forsa glen, vii. Aigyle, 278, 279— water, 281 Forss water, xt. Caithness, 2, 15, 69— house, 2 Fort of Drum, xii. Aberdeen, 887 Fort of Westray rocks» xv. Orkney, 1 15 Forthill of Monifieth, xi. Forfar, 548 Fort green, Ayr, v. Ayr, 3 Fort point, ii. Berwick, 319, 321 Fortar castle, xi For&r, 427, 677 Fort Augustus, xiv. Invemen, 57, 62 Forteviot parish, x. Perth, 1172 Fort George, xiv. InTcmess, 381, 469, 471 Forth, frith of, i. Edinburgh, 590, 760, ii. Berwick, 279, Haddington, 1 73, 174, 203,249,305,319, LinUthgow, 1, 18, 19, 56, 57, 92, 121, viii. Stirling, 191, 201, ix. Fife, 231, 612 Forth river, viil Clackmannan, 2, 3, 6, 121, 122, StirUng, 48, 50, 101, 214, 216, 264, 304, 306, 391, 396, x. Perth. 1151, 1160, 1248 Forth and Cart canal, vii. Renfirew, 563 Forth and Clyde canal, vi Lanark, 104, 158, 202, 242, 246, 411, 699, 945, viii. Dunbarton, 60, 138, 151, 173,202, 203, Stirling, 23, 24, 140, 160, 197, 211,213 Forth, remains at, xi. Kincardine, 39 Forth village, vi. Lanark, 83, 90 Forthill of Dun,xi. Forfiir, 123 Forthar castle, xi For&r, 174 Forthar limeworks, ix. Fife, 1 05 Forthy water, xi Kincardine, 153 Fortingal parish, x. Perth, 527— valley,532 Fort Matilda, vii. Renfrew, 410 Forton property, ii Haddington, 45 Fortrose bay and point, xiv. Ross, 848, 350 — cross, 353— town, 354 Fort William village, &c. xiv. Inverness, 117, 118,122,123,124,125 Forvie bum, xii. Aberdeen, 589— church, 593— sands, 597 Foss house, x. Perth, 769~~quoad Mcra parish, 759, 779 Fossoway and Tulliebole, united parishes of; X. Perth, 1016 Fothringham hill, house, &c. xi. Forfiu-, 235 Foths, camp at, xiii Elgin, 86 Foudland hills, xu. Aberdeen, 599, 728, 748, 749, 757, xiii Ban^ 100 Foula isle, xv. Shetland, 19, 74 Foulden parish, ii Berwick, 261 — Chouse, 265— village, 262 FouldiielB, remains at, iii Roxbui]g^, 444 Fountainbleau, spring at, iv. Dumfries, 3 Fountainblow, Ruthven, xi. Forfiu*, 413 Fountainhall property, &c. ii Hadding- ton, 131, 347 Fountainhall villa^, i Edinburgh, 422 Four lords* seat, xii. Aberdeen, 1022 Fourmerkland tower, iv. Dumfries, 559 FourmilehiU, village, i Edinburgh, 522 Fourtowns barony, iv. Dumfries, 387 Foveran parish, xii Aberdeen, 697-^ bum, 698— castle, 699— house, '698 Fowlcauseway, the, v. Ayr, 39 Fowlis, braes oC, x. Perth, 249— cro8B> 254— village, 259 Fowlis, den of, xi Forfar, 461, 571 Fowlis castle, xiv. Ross, 366 — plantations^ 324 Fowlis Easter, annexed parish of^ xi For- far, 460 — castle, 461— church, 466 Fowlis Wester parish, x. Perth, 249 Fowlis Mowat property, xii Aberdeen, 1110 Fowlsheugh cliffis^i Kincardine, 213 Foxley village, vi Lanark, 652 Foxton house, ix. Fife, 8 Foyers, &lls of^ xiv. Inverness, 1, 6, 521, 53 Francis* cave, xiv. Inverness, 146 Franciscan monastery, Ajrr, v. Ayr, 37 Franciscan monastery, Dumfries, iv, Dum- fries, 5 Franciscan monastery, Perth, x. Perth, 65 Franciscan monastery, St Andrews, ix Fife, 468 Franciscan monastery, Stirling, viii Stir- Ung, 423 Frankfield loch, vi I^anark, 104, 206 Fraochie loch, x. Perth, 450, 755, 1005 Fraserburgh parish, xii Aberdeen, 249— bay, 250, 251— town, 253, 254~har- bour, xiii Banff, 42 Frater hall, Dunfermline, ix. Fif!9, 851 Freasgail caves, xv. Sutherland, 167 FreblMiy district, xv. Orkney, 120 Free glen, xv. Sutherland, 134 Freebum inn, xv. Invemess, 115 Freefield house, xii Aberdeen, 426 Frenchland tower, iv. Dumfries, 114 Frenchlaw, remains at, ii. Berwick, 171 Frendraught bum, xii Aberdeen, 599— castle and house, 601 Fresgo head, xv. Caithness, 14 Freswick bay, xv. Caithness, 22 — bum, 24 — castle, 24, 25— house, 27 Freuchie, village o^ ix. Fife, 936 Freuchy loch, x. Perth, 450, 755, 1005 Freugh moss, iv. Wigton, 166 Frew ford, viii. Stirling, 51— fort at, 52 Friardykes, monAstor] «X»tYuVL^^\!&t, 656— colliery, 651, 660— tilework, (559 Oadgirthholm village, v. Ayr, 662 Oadvan preceptory, ix. Fife, 210 Oady water, xii. Aberdeen, 633, 692, 693, 728, 847, 1019, 1020 Gogic house, xi. Forfiur, 493 Gaick forest, xiv. Inverness, 66, 69 Gail loch, xiL Aberdeen, 1026 Gainmhich isle, xiv. Inverness, 145, 149 Gair bridge, ix. Fife, 478 Gair loch, vii. Argyle, 678, viii. Dun- barton, 65, 66y 70, 103, 109, 234 Gair loch, xiv. Inverness, 245, Ross, 90, 92 Gairloch parish, xiv. Ross, 90 Gair, springs at,iv. Dumfries, 276 Gaim water, xii. Aberdeen, 772, 776 Gaimey water, ix. Kinross, 39, 45, x. Perth, 1018, xii Aberdeen, 1049 Gairney bridge school, ix. Kinross, 50, 51 Gairsay isle, xv. Orkney, 196, 197 Gaimside chapel, xii. Aberdeen, 783 Gait loch, v. Ayr, 180 Gaitnip craiss, xv. Orkney, 1 Gala house, iii. Selkirk, 1 7 — water, i. Edin- burgh, 199, 398, 399, 400, 403, iii. Roxburgh, 51, 53,460, Selkirk, 11, 1^ 79 Galachlaw hill, i. Edinbuii^y & Galashiels parish and town, iii. Selkiik, 11, Roxbui;^66 Galbraith isle, viii. Dunbarton, 156, 167 Galcantray, chapel at, xiv. Invemeaa, 458 Galry village, ix. Fife, 578 Galdus tomb, iv. Wigton, 2 Gallaberry camp, iv. Dumfries, 454 Gallala know, iii. Roxboigh, 26^1 Gallan head, xiv. Ross, 151 Gallaton village, ix. Fife, 135, 139 Gallengad cascade, viii. Dimbartoo, 213 Gallo hill, XV. Orkney, 1 14, 126 Galloway house, iv. Wigton, 29 Gallowbank of Annan, iv. Dumfries, 525 —quarry, 531 Gallowbank of Garvock, xi. Kincardine, 39 Gallowcaim of Boindie, xiiL Banfi^ 226 Gallow cairn of Rosskeen, xiv. Ross, 271 Gallowdnmi of Clunie, x. Perth, 1025 Gallowflat house and property, vi. Lanark, 377— tumulus, 383 Gallowflat of Morton, iv. Dumfries, 96 Gallo wgreen of Paisley, vii. Renfrew, 151 GallowhiU of Altyre, xiil Elgin, 251 Gallowhill of Auchterless, xii. Aberdeen, 286 Gallowhill of Banff, xiiL Banfl^ 2, 14 Gallowhill of Campsie, viii. Stirling, 245 GaUowhill of Cargill, x. Perth, 1170 Gallowhill of Clatt, xii. Aberdeen, 850 Gallowhill of Crieff, x. Perth, 497 GaUowhill of Dalserf, vl Lanark, 733 Gallowhill of Douglas, vi. Lanark, 489 Gallowhill of Edzell, xL Forfar, 622 Gallowhill of Errol, x. Perth, 386 Gallowhill of Ethiebeaton, xi. Forfiur, 546 Gallowhill of Fordoun, xi. Kincardine, 85 Gallowhill of Garioch, xii. Aberdeen, 564 Gallowhill of Grange, xiii. Banff, 214 Gallowhill of Insch, xiL Aberdeen, 751 Gallowhill of Kincardine, x. Perth, 1259 Gallowhill of Kirkden, xi. Forfieur, 386 Gallowhill of Kirkintilloch, viii Dunbar- ton, 169 Gallowhill of Lecropt, x. Perth, 1161 Gallowhill of Lunan, xi Forfar, 325 Gallowhill of Maybole, v. Ayr, 365 Gallowhill of Monzie, x. Perth, 273 Gallowhill of Paisley quarry, vii. Ren- frew, 157 Gallowhill of Pettie, xiv. Inverness, 391 Gallowhill of Roseneath, viiL Dunbarton, 104, 124 Gallowhill of Ruthven, xi. For^, 413 Gallowhill of Terr^les, iv. Kirkcudbri|dit, 232 Gallow know of Broughton, iiL Peebles, 87 Gallow know of Kinross, ix. Kinross, 2 Gallow know of Oxnam, iii. RinburRh, 261 OSNBEAL INDEX. Ixiii Gallowlaw of Kinnell, xi. Forfar, 399 Gallowside of Coldingham, ii. Berwick, 284 Oallowslot of Kelton, iv. Kirkcudbright, 156 Oalston parish, v. Ayr, 178 — ^moor, 184 — village, 187 Oalt head, xy. Orkney, 79 Galtrigil head, xiv. Invemen, 324 Galtway church, iv. Kirkcudbright, 22 Galval ca^le, xiii Bani^ 864 Gamescleuch tower, iii. Selkirk, 68 Gameflhill limeworks, v. Ayr, 291, 801 Gameahope bum, iii. Peebles, 59^och, 60 Gamhair water, x. Perth, 529, 540 Gamhuinn loch, xiii. £1^, 187, 188 Gamrie parish, xiii. Banff, 271 — battle of, 282— bay, 271— head, 145, J271 Gannachy bridge, xL Forfkr, 192, Kin- cardine, 118 Ganuh loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 . Gaoir water, x. Perth, 529, 540 Gaoth cheinn hill, v.«Bute, 2 Garafad property, xiv. Inverness, 264 Garallan colliery, v. Ayr, 117— property, 264 Garbhdhun, falls of, x. Perth, 541 GarbhmheaU hill, x. Perth, 529 Garbhreachd loch, xiv. Inverness, 491 Garbhreisa isle, vii. Aigyle, 47 Garbhuisge water, x. Perth, 351 Garchory, remains found at, xiL Aber- deen, 546 Garden, chrome ore at, xv. Shetland, 108 Garden, plantations at, viii. Stirling, 266 —tower, 268 Garden of Eden, the, v. Ayr, 365 Gardenstown village, xiii. Banff, 271, 286, 291 Garder house, xv. Shetland, 115 Gardyne castle, xi. Forfar, 386 Gare colliery, vi Lanark, 568-— lime- works, 569 Gare loch, vii. Aigyle, 678, viii, Dunbar- ton, 65, 66, 70, 103, 109, 234 Garelochhead village, viiil Dunbarton, 76 — chapel, 78 Gar£&rran, remains at, viii Stirling, 106 Gargunnock parish, viii Stirling, 48 — bum, 51— distillery, 59 — house, 53 — peel, 5 1 Garie water, xi. Forfisur, 165 Garioch, see Chapel of Garioch Garion bridge, vL Lanark, 750 Gariongill collieries, vi. Lanark, 775— railway, 159 Garion mill, vi. Lanark, 726 Garleton hills, ii Haddington, 1, 3, 358 Garlick, Deirs dike at, iv. Wigton, 233 GarUes casUe, iv. Kirkcudbright, 128 Garlieeton bay, iv. Wigton, 22, 23, 24— village, 33 Garlogie mills, xiL Aberdeen, 1096, 1099 Oarmiston, cairns at, xv. Orlmej, 68 Garmond village, xil Aberdeen, 765, 769 Garmouth harbour, xiii. Banff, 42— pro- perty, Elgin, 44— common, 51— har- bour and village, 52, 53, 55 Gamkirk burn, vi. Lanark, 401— clayfield, &c. 402, 408— house, 407— limeworks, 402— plantations, 404 — railway, 159, 205,411,664 Gamock water, v. Ayr, 211, 212, 427, 436,620,690,691,811,812 Garpel water, v. Ayr, 130, 149, iv. Diun- fries, 102, 125, Kirkcudbright, 99 Garpel limeworks, vii. Renfrew, 83 Garr glen, x. Perth, 426 Garrabost, limestone at, xiv. Ross, 120 Garraghuism, cave at, xiv. Ross, 116 Garrel, annexed parish of, iv. Dumfries, 67 — church, 69— water, 68 Garrel bum, viiu Stirling, 141, 145, 146 — hill, 140 — ^mill and well, 147— quar- ries, 142 Garrel, remains at, vi Lanark, 69 Garret, plantations at, xi. Kincardine, 77 Garrion bum, vi Lanark, 564, 565, 566, 609— bridge, 609— gill, 611-.hon8e» 617 Garroch head, v. Bute, 83 Garroch hill, v. Ayr, 106 Garroch house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 112 Garrol, remains at, xi Kincardine, 336 Garrold wood, xi. Kincardine, 77 Garron head, xi Kincardine, 214, 246 Garry loch, x. Perth, 540, 559— g^en, 559 —water, 426, 559, 560, 639, 640, 757, 759 Garry water, xiv. Inverness, 505 Garry point, ii Haddington, 318 Garryhome castle, v. Ayr, 365 Garscadden house,' vii. Renfrew, 8, viii Dunbarton, 43, 49, 50 Garscube, battle of, viii Dunbarton, 41 — collieries, 38 — quarry, 57 — house and mills, 38, 49, vi Lanark, 102 Garson point, xv. Orkney, 47 Gart house, x. Perth, 356 Gartcloss colliery, vi. Lanark, 644 Gartfeny house, vi Lanark, 407 — woods, 404 GartgUl colliery, vi Lanark, 644 — moss, 656 Garth castle, x. Perth, 650 Garth house, xv. Shetland, 57 Garthland property, vii Renfrew, 92— plantations, 99 Guihiand tower, iv. Wigton, 164 Gartie chapel, xv. Sutherland, 201 Gartinqueen loch, vi Lanark, 401 Gartloch house, vi Lanark, 407 Oartly parish, xiii Banff, 95— castle, 97 Gartmore house, x, Perth, 1 108— proper* ty, viii Stirling, 296 Gartmom dam, viii Clackmannan, 8 — hill, 3 Gartness, viii Stirling, 104^«astle, 105 — fiais, 101— mills, 110 bdv aBNBBAL UTDBX. Qartsherrie bum, vi. Lanark, 666— col- lieries, 643— ironworks, 160, 24S, 648, 658 — -quoad aacra pariah, 665 Gartshore loch, viii Dunbarton, 173— property, &c. 184, 191 Garturk quarry, &c. yi. Lanark, 648 Oartwhynean village, x. Perth, 1021 Garvald, supprased parish of, iv. Dum- fries, 151— church, 69— linns, 399 Garvald and Bara, united parishes o( ii. Haddington, 95 Garvald, camp at, ii. Haddington, 96 — village, 95, 98 Garvald house, vi Lanark, 52 — ^remains at, 69 Garvald mills, viii Stirling, 127 Garvald point, vii. Renfrew, 535 Garvaldfoot hill, vi. Lanark, 49— wood at, ilL Peebles, 157 Garvalt cascade, xii. Aberdeen, 648 Garvaiy hill, xiv. Ross, 435 Garve water, xiv. Ross, 400 Garvellan isle, xiv. Sutherland, 85 Garvelloch isles, viL Aigyle, 534 Garvock parish, xL Kincardine, 22 — hill, 23, 27, 28, 270, 298— remains on, 35 Garvock house, x. Perth, 720 Garwall bum, x. Perth, 1225 Gasclune castle, x. Perth, 915, 1004 Gasconhall castle, x. Perth, 337 Gask house, xii Aberdeen, 995— proper- ty 991 Gask hill, ix. Fife, 28 Gask, remains at, xiv. Inverness, 519 Gask parish, x. Perth, 281 — house, 282 Gaaswater, clay at, v. Ayr, 324 Gatehead colliery, v. Ayr, 685 Gatehope bum, iii Peebles, 5 Gatehouse village, iv. Kirkcudbright, 292, 298, 303 Gateshaw hill, iii Roxburgh, 448 Gateside house, xii. Aberdeen, 238 — calm at, 732 Gateside village, v. A3rr, 593 Gateside viUage, ix. Fife, 779 Gateside, remains at, xi. For&r, 532 Gateside well, vi. Lanark, 399 Gateside factory, vii. Renfrew, 336-— vil- lage, 330 Gattonaide hills, iii. Roxburgh, 52 — vil- lage, 67 Gauir water, x. Perth, 529, 540 Gaul loch, vii Argyle, 300, 339 Gaval property, viu. Stirling, 141 Gannton village, ii Berwick, 236, 238, 240 Gaviside house, i Edinburgh, 306 Gavock hill, xi. Kincardine, 129 Gawreer bum, v. Ayr, 523 Geanach hill, xii. Aberdeen, 787 Geanies house, xiv. Ross, 461 Gear abhain water, vii. Aigyle, 1 67 Gear-amhuinn water, vii Argyle, 6 Geary pot, a cave, xi. Forfar, 492 Ged, see Jed Geddes hill and castle, xiii Nairn, 1— house, &c 2, 3 Geddes well, iii. Peebles, 60 Geddeston village, xiv. Ross, 392 Geil water, vi. Lanark, 302 Gela hamlet, xv. Shetland, 95 Gellan hill, xii. Aberdeen, 957 Gellie bum, ix. Fife, 148— loch, 128, 148, 166 Gellybum quarries, x. Perth, 166 Gelston castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 161— church, 170 Gelt water, ▼. Ayr, 325 Genner hill, remains at, vi Lanark, 303 George IVth^s bridge, i. Edinburgh, 646 George Wal8on1ihospital,i £dinburgfa,72S Geranton moat, iv. Kirkcudbright, 195 Gerardine*s cave, xiii. Elgin, 147 Gerston clachan, xv. Caithness, 74 Ghara&da point, xiv. Inverness, 240 Gharbhlagun hill, x. Perth, 529 Ghartin hill, xiii El^, 124 Gho8t*8 know, viii Stirling, 324 Ghulbhuinn hill, x. Perth, 786 Oiant'h fort, vii Argyle, 385 Giants grave, vii Argyle, 205 Giant's grave, iii Peebles, 117 Giant's leg, xv. Shetland, 8 Gibbon hill, x. Perth, 424, 434 Gibbs cross, ii Berwick, 72 Gibliston, limestone at, ix. Fife, 916 Giffen barony, v. Ayr, 576, 581— caatle, 574 GifFerton village, ix. Fife, 30 Giflheck quarry, vii Renfrew, 35 Gifford bum, ii Haddington, 154, 271, 272, 359— vil^je, 154, 158, 165 Gifford gait, the, ii Haddington, 6 Gigha isle, vu, Argyle, 377, 394, xiv. In- vemess, 200 Gigha and Cara, united parishes of, vii Argyle, 394 Gight castle, xii Aberdeen, 330— water, 963 Gighty water, xi For&r, 239, 394 Gigulum isle, vii Aigjle, 395, 396 Gil bum, ii Linlithgow, 122 Gilbertfield castle, vi Lanark, 425 Gilcomston, quocul aacra parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 1077, 1078— village, 1075 Gildermony, stones at, xiv. Ross, 343 Giliillan church, iv, Wigton, 28 Gilgal village, iv. Dumfiiea, 142 Gilkerscleugh house, &c. vi Lanark, 500, 504 GiU bay, iv. Wigton, 201 Gill bum, vi Lanark, 848 GiU of Cree, iv. Kirkcudbright, 119 Gillanderli cave, xv. Sutherland, 25 Gillespie's Hospital, i. Edinburgh, 725 Gillies' hiU, Beith, v. Ayr, 578 Gillies' knowe, v. Ayr, 315 Gilliestongues, spring at, iii. Roxburgh, 2 GiUmillscrofl property, v. Ayr, 132 — quarry, J 42 GENERAL INDEX. Ixv Gills Imy, XT. Caithness, 22 Gilmerton village, i Edinburgh, 12'— cave | at, 6 (jrilmerton house, ii Haddington, 48 Gilmerton village, x. Perth, 259, 257, 259, 275, 278 (iilmour's linn, viil Stirling, 307 Oilnockic, camp at, iv. Dumfries, 490 Gilp, loch, vii. Argyle, 678 Gilrig, remains at, iv. Dumfries, 70 Gilrivie property, xi. Forfar, 123 GiUton village, ix. Fife, 442 Gipsies' steps, v. Ayr, 449 Girdlencfls, xi. Kincardine, 195 — light- house, 198, 201 Girgenti house, v. Ayr, 734 Girlsta loch, xv. Shetland, 0*8 Gimi goe, xv. Caithness, 1 18 — castle, 119, 134,139 Girsac water and falls, xiv. Ross, 178 (}irthgate of Melrose, iii. Roxburgh, 58 Girthgatc of Soutra, i. Edinburgh, 536' Girthhead house, iv. Dumfries, 141 Girthill quarry, v. Ayr, 193 Girthon pariah, iv. Kirkcudbright, 291 Girvan parish, v. Ayr, 394 — bay, 402 — mains, improvcmento at, 401 — town, 403— water, 333, 334, 350, 381, 395, 402, 492, 493, 495 Girvel water, vi Lanark, 302 Gizzen briggs, the, xiv. Ross, 281, xv. Su- therland, 2 Glack, remains found at, xii. Aberdeen, 822 Glack of Newtyle, xi. Forfiir, 558 Glackhamis pass, xiii. Banff, 111 Glackindaline c&»tle, vil Argyle, 349 Gladefield house, xiv. Ross, 419 Gladsmuir parish, ii. Haddington, 173 Glaidney Cotton, village, ix. Fife, 9 Glaissean loch, vii. Argyle, 678 Glamaig hill, xiv. Inverness, 219 Glammiss castle, Kinghom, ix. Fife, 804 Glammiss parish, xL For&r, 337 — bum, 3;^— castle, 343— village, 347, 348 Glanderton plantations, vii. Rcnfi«w, 322 Glasbheinn hill, xiv. Ross, 171 Glaschoiren hill, vii. Argyle, 124 Glasford parish, vi. Lanark, 294 Gla^ford mill bridge, vi. Lanark, 299 (jilasgow, city of, vi. Lanark, 100, 901 CJlasgow and Ayr railway, v. Ayr, 66, 683, 829, vii. Renfrew, 562 Glasgow and Greenock railway, vii. Ren- frew, 452, 561 Glasgow and Paisley railway, ui. Renfrew, 279 Glasgow, Paisley, and Johnstone canal, vL I^nark, 204, 699, viL Renfrew, 277, 201,563 Glaahfarquhar, remains found at, xi Kin- cardine, 182 Glaslaw hill, xL Kincardine, 213— bum, 216 Giasnock water, v. Ayr, 476— house^ 482 VOL. XV. Glass parish, xiii. Banff, 203 Glass river, xiv. Inverness, 363, 484, 485, 487— strath, 363 Glass loch, xiv. Ross, 313 (rlaaaary ]>arish, viL Argyle, 675 Glassaugh house, xiii Banff, 183, 188 GlasschiU, the, xil Aberdeen, 417, 526 Glassel house, &c. xi. Kincardine, 326— i Umeworks, 330 Glass Elian isle, xiv. Ross, 184 Glasserton parish, iv. Wigton, 36 — hill, 38— house, 47 Glassletter loch, xiv. Ross, 172 Glussmile hill, xi. Forfar, 422 Glassmounthill, ix. Fife, 801— house, 810 Glaudhall house, vL Lanark, 407 Glazert burn, v. Ayr, 290, 728 Glazcrt bum, viiL Stirling, 236 Glebe bum, vi. Lanark, 848 Glen house, iil. Peebles, 44 Glen bum, xii. Aberdeen, 728 Glen bum, xiv. Ross, 143 Glen of Hobkirk quarry, iii. Roxburgh, 210 Glen of Morham, ii. Haddington, 264 Glen of Ness pass, v. Ayr, 309 Glen of North Berwick, ii. Haddington, 319 Glenae house, iv. Dumfries, 69— tower, 44 Glenaffrick, xiv. Inverness, 365 Glenaheurich, vil Argyle, 125 Glenaladale, vii. Argyle, 125 Glenalla hill, v. Ayr, 492 Glenalmond, x. Perth, 263, 488 Glenap, iv. Wigton, 77 Glenapp, v. Ayr, 410, 418 — chapel, &c. 423 Glenaray, viL Argyle, 2, 6 Glenarbuck house, &c. viiL Dunbarton, 16, 241— rocks at, 17 Glcnarklet, viii. Stirling, 89 Glenartney, x. Perth, 578 Gienavon hills, xiii. Banff, 296 — foicst, 297 Glenayes castle, v. Ayr, 365 Glenb^, xiv. Inverness, 132 Glenbeich, cascade at, x. Perth, 581 Glenbennan hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 266 Glenbervie pariah, xL Kincardine, 165 — house, 72 Glenbran, x. Perth, 219 Glenbrantor house, vii. Argyle, 1 05 Glenbreckry, vii. Argyle, 413 Glenbrichty, xi. Forfar, 421 Glenbuck loch, v. Ayr, 149 — village, 153, 156 Glcnbucket parish, xil Aberdeen, 436 — castle, 436, 544 Glenbuckio, x. Perth, 344— house, 347 Glenbum hall, iii. Roxburgh, 14 Glcncainail, vii. Argyle, 278, 279 Glencaim parish, iv. Dumfries, 330 Glencannich, xiv. Inverness, 363 Glencaple pier, iv. Dumfries, 352^village, 356 Ixvi QEKERAL IVDEX. (ilcncarrick ciiscuile, i\. DunifHeH, .'S-U— distillery. IJG OlencirHc hotiiie, x. Peith, 1215 UlenciitAcol hill, v. Buto, 43 (ilcnchiitt, xii. Alx'ixleen, 787 filencloy, v. Hute 4 Cilenc<>e\ vii. Argylc, 225 — massacre, 238 Glenconny, spring at» xii. Aberdeen, 580 Cllenconvinth, xiv. Inverness, 484 Glencotho, iii. Peebles, 79 Olencmggacb quarri(>H, xv. Caithnev, 19 Olencrnigie bum, iii. Peebles, 59 Glencrieti'leadminc, iv. l>umfries,300,303 OlencrtMU or (ileucorse parish, i. Kdin- burKh, 3lO~bum, 311— house, 317 Cilondale, xiv. luvemefls, 324 Glendaruell house, vit Argj'le, 673 Glendoun cliils, iii. Peebles, 37 Glendelvine house, x. Perth, 676 Glendhu Im-h, xv. Sutherland, 119, 120, 121 Glendinning castle, &c. iv. Dumfries, 430, 433 Olendochart, x. Perth, 1077 Glendochart castle, iv. Wigton, 233 Glendoick house, x. Perth, 1213, 1215— village, 395 Glendorch castle, vi. Lanark, 502 Glendouran, vi. l^nark, 500 Glendovan parish, x. Perth, 333— house, 3U5 Glendow, vii. Argyle, 474, viii. Stirling, 89 ( jlendronach distillery, xii. Aberdeen, 601 Gleiidubh lead mines, vii Argvlc, 170 Glcnduckie hill, ix. Fife, 596, 598 Glenduff hill, vi. Ijanark, 653 Glendufjlass, viii, Dunbarton, 156 Glendye, xi. Kincardine, 232 Glenc^gle church, x. Perth, 299 Gleneani houhc, x. Perth, 864 Glenelchuifj, xiv. Kohs, 170 Glenclg parish, xiv. Inverness, 128 — bay, i7>.— district, 129 Glenellrig house, viii. Stirling, 277 Glenennich, xiii. Elgin, 137 Olenerichkie, x. Perth, 559 Olcnericht, x. Perth, 898-.bridge, 248 Glcnesk, xi. Forfar, 664 Gleneslin, iv. Dumfriets 337 Glenespig, v. Bute, 46 Glenetive, vii. Argyle, 473 Gleneuchar, vii. Arg}le, 62 Glenfaimess, remains at, &c. xiii. Nairn, 31,35 (ilenfhlloch, viii. Dunbarton, 96, 235, x. Perth, 1078 Glenfamate hill. x. Perth, 638 Glenfarquhar, xi. Kincanline, 68 Glenfifis, v. Bute, 46 Glenfemlnr, x. Perth, 559 Olenfeshie, xiv. Inverness, 82 Olenfiddich, xiii. Banff, 103— forest, 104 Olenfinart, vii. Argyle, 572 — house, 610 Glcntinlass, viii. Dunbarton, 156 Glenfinnon tower, vii. Argjle, 1 48 Glenfishie forest, xiii Elgin, 57 Olenfoot, pl«ntatiop» at, TiiL Cfaurkaia' nan, 70 Olenfoot village, x. Perth, 857, R5<» OlenfoiBa, viL Ar^gyle, 278, 279 Glenfbrth distillery, iL L»inlitbginr, l^ Glenfhiin hill mnd Taller, viiL Danbaztflc 66— battle ot 74, 156 Glengaber, iiL Peebles, 167 — bom, 39 Glengaim, suppressed pariah oC xii Aher deen, 772 Glcngap bum, ir. Kirkciidbright, 2J» Glengamock castle and propertr, t. .Avr. 691, 700, 704, 706 Olengarr pass, x. Perth, 426 Glengarry, xiv. Inverness, 511 Glengarry, x. Perth, 559 Glengaw bum. v. Ayr, 2 Glengloy, xiv. Inverness, 506, 507 Glengoliie, xv. SutherUind, 84 Glengonaa forest, vi. Lanark, 332 Glengonner bum, vL L4inark, 4ii8 Glengunney house, xiii. Elgin, 70 Glenhaliniidel quarry, v. Bute, 10 Glenhalton, xiv. Inverness, 288 Glenhead, castlehill of, v. Arr. 257 Glenhead village, vii. Renfirevr, 98, 101 Glenhigton, xiv. Inverness, 286 GlenhilU monument at, iv. KirkcuJhwb'-^ 243 Glcnholm, annexed parish oC iiL PctUrii 78 Glcnhowan village, iv. Dumfries, 356 Gleniffer braes, vii Renfrew, 140, 1«0 Glenigag, xiv. Ross, 2S6 Glening, vii. Argyle, 126 Glen-intshuidhe, 'remains at, v. Bnie, >4 Gleniorsa, v. Bute, 46 (tlenisla parish, xi. Forfar, 421 Glenkens societv, iv. Kirkcudbriffhu l"'^ 113.278 Glenkctland, vii. Argyle, 473 Glenkiln bum, iv. Dumfries. 67 Glenkindy house, xii. Aberdeen, 547 Olenkinglaas, viL Argyle, 472 Glenkirk, iii. Peebles, 79 Olenlacht, stone at, iv. Dumfries, 467 Glsnlatterach bum, Ac. xiiL Elgin, 1.% Glenlcan, vii. Arg>ie, .572 Glenlednock, x. Perth, 578 Glenlee park. iv. Kirkcudbright, 101»,lli Glenleith hill, iv. IhimfH(>s, S»l filenlichd, xiv. Ross, 1 82 (Jlenlivet, xiii. Banff. 123— .battle, i:W- distilleries, 137 — limestone, 127 Glonlochay, vii Arg\)e, 84, x. Perth. 7i»-2, 1078 Glenlogy bum, xi. Forfar, 165 Glenloig, limestone at, v. Bute, 44, 45 Glenloth, xv. Sutherland, 188, 191 Glenluce.iv. Wigton, 66, 69 village, 71, 74 Glenlude, iii. Perth, 79 — bum, 39 Glenlyon, x. Perth, 529, 703 Glenmaid plantations, iv. DumfKcs» 55 3 GBKEBAL IKDBX. Ixvii Glenmailen, camp at, xi. Kincardine, 249 Glenmarkie burn, xi. ForfiEur, 421 Glenmarlin pool, iv. Dumfries, 502 GlenmaMan, vii. Argyle, 572 Glenmeallin, camp at, xii. Aberdeen, 601, 734 Glenmeuble, vii Argyle, 126 Glenmill bleachfield, viii. Stirling, 255 Glenmillan, cairns at, xii. Aberdeen, 1092 Glenmore, vii. Aig>'le, 178 — bay, 156 Glenmore, v. Ayr, 323 — ^water,*476 Glenmore forest, xiil Elgin, 52, 57 — loch, 92 Glenmore, vii. Inverness,, 132, 233, 524 Glenmore, x. Perth, 531 Glenmoustan, xiv. Inverness, 37— *chapel, &c. 14,49 Glenmuick, Tullich, and Glengaim, unit- ed parishes of, xii. Aberdeen, 772 Glennoe, vii. Argyle, 472 Glenn V bum, x. Perth, 1096 — remains at, 221' Glenoig burn, xi. Forfar, 165 Glenogle, xi. Forfar, 201, 204 Olenogle, x. Perth, 345 Glenormistone house, iii- Peebles, 30 (ilenprosen, xL Forftur, 158— ^;hapel, 185, 452 Glenquaich, x. Perth, 703, 753 Glenquhargan craig, iv. Dumfries, 499, 500 Glenquicken moor, &c. iv. Kirkcudbright, 332, 333 Glenquiech house, xi, Forfju-, 200 Glenquoich, xiv. Inverness, 504 Glenrath tower, iii. Peebles, 1 16 Glenrinnes, xiii. Danff, 112— chapel, 108 Glenriska bum, iii. Peebles, 59 CUenrosa, v. Bute, 3 Glenroy, antiquities found at, xiL Aber- deen, 613 Glenroy, xiv. Inverness, 504 — roads, 505 Glensalloch, vii. Argyle, 474 Glensanda castle, vii. Argyle, 241— -hill, 227 Glensannox, v. Bute, 3 Glensassum, battle of, x. Perth, 547 Glensax, iii. Selkirk, 79 Glenshant, remains at, v. Bute, 23 Glenshce, xi. Foriar, 422 Glenshee, x. Perth, 785 — quarries, 199, 428 Glensheil parish, xiv. Ross, 181 — battle of, 193— valley, 182 (llenshellis house, vii. Argyle, 105 Glensheraig, v. Bute, 4 — remains at, 23 Glenshira, vii. Argyle, 26 Glenshirra house, xiv. Invemess, 427 Glenside quarry, v. Ayr, 494, 501 (llenskenno farm, xi. Forfar, 123 Glenspean, xiv. Inverness, 504, 505 Glenstang bum, v. Ayr, G3R Glenstra^rrar, vii. Inverness, 363, 496 Glenstroe, vii. Argyle, 84 Glentaggart chapel, vi. Lanark, 494 Glentanner hill, &c. xii. Aberdeen, 1048, 1051 — annexed parish, 1047 Glentarkie house, ix. Fife, 159 Glenterra, remains at, iv. Wigton, 85 Glentilt, x. Perth, 559 Glentirran fort, viii. Stirling, 268 Glentmim house, xiv. Inverness, 422, 427 Glenturret, x. Perth, 726 Glentvan hill, vii. Renfrew, 353— house, 362, 370 Glenuigg, xiv. Inverness, 286 Glenurchnv Agricultural Association, vii. Arg}'le/lOO Glenurchay and Inishail, united parishes of, >'ii. Argyle, 82 Glenure, vii. Argyle, 473 Glcnure house, x. Perth, 1086 Glenurquhart, xiv. InvemcsH, 37 Glenurv distillerv, xi. Kincardine, 261 Glenvale, ix. Fife, 776— bum, 921 Glcnvemock, remains at, iv. Wigton, 232 Glenwhurry hills, iv. Dumfries, 316 Glespin bum, vi. Lanark, 479— coal at, 500— house, 504 Glosterlaw, remains at, xi. Forfar, 399— fairs, 411 Goair loch, xv. Sutherland, 17 Goales den, ix. Fife, 533 Goatfell, V. Bute, 2 Goatmilk hill, fort on, ix. Fife, 197 Gobhar fort, vii. Argjle, 145 GobUn*s cave, x. Perth, 351 Gogar bum, L Edinburgh, 78, 206 — camp, 90 — property, 209, 213— rec- tory, 240— village, 222 Gogarbum house, i. Edinbiu^h, 214 Gogarpark house, i. Edinburgh, 214 Gogarstane village, i. Edinburgh, 139 G(^ glen, V. Ayr, 788 — hill, 791— water, 789 Goil loch, viii. Dunbarton, 95, vii. Ar- gyle, 702— water, 704 Goldberry head, v. Ayr, 244— battle at, 250 Goldielands tower, iii Roxburgh, 380, 393 Goldielea house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 Golford, remains at, xiii. Naim, 12 GoUachie, xiiL Banff, 247— bum, 250— distillery, 255 Gollanfield property, xiv. Inverness, 378, 398 Oollie glen, xv. Sutherland, 84 Golspie parish, xv. Sutherland, 24 — bum, ,'5.— chupel, 33— village, 35, 89 Golyn chapel, ii. Haddington, 210— pro- perty, 207 Gometra isle, vii. Argyle, 340, 345, 351 Gonachan bum, viii. Stirling, 40 Goo house, xi. Kincardine, 328 Goodie's knowe, viii. Stirling, 326 Goodhope, coins found at, iv. Dumfries^ 158 Gorbals parish, see Glasgow and Oovan Ixviii GENERAL INDE2. Gordon hall, xii. Aberdeen, 750 Gordon parish, iL Berwick, 33 — village, 34,36 Gordon castle, xiii. Elgin, 115, 116, 118, 119 Gordon's hospital, xii. Aberdeen, 45 Gordon *s mills &ctory,xiL Aberdeen, 1077 Gordon's mills village, xiv. Uoss, 41, 49 Gordonstown village, xii Aberdeen, 288 Gore bum,L Edinburgh, 50, 151 Gorebridge village, I Edinburgh, 52, 53, 151 Goi^gask bum, xiv. Inverness, 419 Gorget tree, iv. Dumfries, 175 Gorgham's tower, iii. Peebles, 116 Gorm loch, xiv. Inverness, 491, xv. Su- therland, 217 Gortan Allister, v. Bute, 33 Qorthy district, x. Perth, 249 — house, 251 Gortleg house, xiv. Inverness, 373 Gorum loch, vii. Argyle, 645 Gory castle, xi. Fot&r, 490 Goseland hill, iii. Peebles, 79 Gosford bay, ii. Haddington, 250^iouse, 252— hospital, 253 Gouch stone, xii. Aberdeen, 122 Goukhall, spring at, iv. Dumfries, 276 Gourdie house, x. Perth, 1025 Gourdon hilU xi. Kincardine, 2, 52^vil- lagc, 3, 10, 16 Oourock bay, vii. Renfrew, 406 — castle and house, 520— quoad sacra parish, •499— vilhigo, 526 Gourock water, v. Ayr, 246 Govan parish, vi. Lanark, 668 — collieries, 671 — factories, 697 — ironworks, 696 — monastery, 674 — village, 693 Govan hill craig, xi. ForfJEir, 246 — wood, 250 (rovan muir, battle of, vi. Lanark, 674 Gow house, xi. Kincardine, 328 Oowanslmnk village, xi. Forfar, 498 Gowell isle, xiv. Boss, 118 (Jower mount, xi. Kincardine, 170 Gowkhall village, ix. Fife, 710 GowkHcrafl nuraerv, v. Avr, 8 Gowland hill, viii. 'Stirling, 403, 407 (jownies point, iv. Wigton, 201 (low's ciutle, xiii. El^jin, 149 Gozlinpton loch, vi. I^anark, 470 Oling Klang cave, xv. Orknev, 13 Gloe loch, ix. Fife, 829 (ilomach falls, xiv. Ilo»s, 173 Gloom castle, viii. Clackmannan, 103-.- hilU8l,103 Glooniingyide bum, viii. Clackmannan, 67 Glorat house, viii. Dunbarton, 184, itir- lin^;. 244 (Jloup cave, xv. Orkney, 170 — bay, Shet- land, 24 — house, 26 (ilour-oure-em hills, ii. Linlithpnr, 55 (Jlour-owre-em hills, x. Perth, 491 (ilow loch, ix. KinrosjH, 39 Gloy glen, xiv. Inverness, 506, 507 Glumeshohn isle, xv. Orkney, 191 Glunamore isle, vii Argyle, 414 Gluss voe, XV. Shetland, 71 — isle, ib, Glutt district, XV. Caithness, 79 Gracemount hill, L Edinburgh, 8 Graden bum, ii. Berwick, 200 — village, 208 — ^hills, iii. Roxburj^, 145 — place, 151 Graemshall house, xv. Orkney, 218 Gracmsay isle, xv. Orkney, 27, 40 Grahame's castle, viii. Stirling, 322 Grahame's dyke, ii. Linlithgow, 67, viii. Dunbarton, 20, 141, 1 87, Stirling, 4, 11, 195 Orahame's hag, iv. Dumfries, 70 Grahame's knowe, xi. Forfar, 559 Grahameslaw, caves at, iii. Roxburgh, 226 Grahamestoun >illage, vii. Renfrew, 330 Gnilmmestown villi^ viii. Stirling, 4, 19 Graitney parish and hill, iv. Dumfries, 262 Grampians, viii Stirling, 89, x. Perth, 199, 249, 349, 424, 491, 559, 578, 725, 752, 1096, xi. Forfiir, 191, 201,312,337,383, 435, 688, Kincardine, 68, 1 11, 170, 324, xiii. Bai^, 296, xiv. Inverness, 64, 81, 191— battle of, xi. Kincardine, 250 Grandholm house, xii Aberdeen, 1076— factories, 1077 Grandtully castle, x. Perth, 769 Grange house, &c. v. Ayr, 436, 451, 453 — quarries, 438 Grange parish, xiiL Banff, 213 Gninge coalfield, ix. Fife, 519, 521— dis- tillery, 4 1 6 — house, 4 1 5 — quarries, 408 Grange, chajjcl at, xi. Forfar, 490 — fossil remains at, 672 — house, 548 Grange burn, iv. Kirkcudbright, 5 (Jrange house, ii. Linlithgow, 68 Grange plantations, iii Roxburgh, 194 Grange burn, viii Stirling, 3 Gningefell hill, iv. Dumfries, 195 Grangehall house, xiii. Elgin, 202, 206 Grangemouth town and quoad sacra pa- rish, viii. Stirling, 2, 24 Grangemuir house, ix. Fife, 616, 618 Orangepans village, ii LinUthgow, 71, 72 Grant castle, xiv. Inverness, 434, 437, 438 Gmnton pier, &c. i Edinburgh, 601, 603 — quarry, .593, 601 Grantoun village, xiii. Banff, 138 Grantoun \illagc,xiv. Inverness, 439, 440 (ivaas loch, xiii Elgin, 196 Gray house, &c. xi Forfer, 576, 577 Grayhill, cairns on, xii. Aberdeen, 417 Gray's hospital, xiii. Elgin, 115 Greannoch loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 179, 291 Great cave of Gigha, vii Argjle, 395 Great glen of Albin, xiv. Inverness, 1,41, 381,504,524 Great Dirrington law, ii. Berwick, 94 Great llclvel hill, xiv. Inverness, 323 GreatlawH, coins found at, iii. Peebles, 101 Greatmoor hill, iii. Roxburgh, 441 GENERAL INDEX. Ixix Cireat Skerry rock, xiii. Elgin, 147 Grent Sourby church, iv. Wigton, 27 Orceu cairn of Bcllie, xiii. El^n, 119 ( ireen cairn of Fettercaim, xl Kincardine, 115 Green ca«tle, xiii. Banff, 254 Green castle, ii. Haddington, 96 Green castle, xi. Kincardine, 73, 79, 85 Green hill, xi. Forfar, 597 Green hoiue, z. Perth, 26 Green isle, xiv. Ross, 184 Green loch, iv. Wigton, 82 Green of Glasgow, vi. Lanark, 223 Green of Mauchlinc, v. Ayr, 161 Green of Muirtown village, xiv. Inverness, 30 Green of Ruthcrglen, vl Lanark, 377 Greenan castle, v. Ayr, 365 Grcenan loch, v. Bute, 99 Grecnbank dye-work, vii. Renfrew, 40— property, 521 Greenbank house, xv. Shetland, 26 Greencraig hill, ix. Fife, 632, 633— fort on, 644 Greencraig of Drumbroider, viii. Stirling, 209 Grcendykes house and property, ii. Had- dington, 182, 184, 185 Greenfield property, v. Ayr, 33 Greenfield loch, >ii. Renfrew, 385 Greenfoot village, v. Ayr, 143 Grcengairs village, vi. Lanark, 246 Greenhall, remains at, vi. Lanark, 321 Greenhill, xii. Aberdeen, 526 Greenhill, ironstone at, v. Ayr, 106 Greenhill, the, xiii. Banff, 64 Greenhill village, iv. Dumfries, 387 Greenhill colliery, vi. Lanark, 644 Greenhill house, iii. Roxburgh, 195, 198 Greenknow tower, ii. Berwick, 34 ( ireenknowc of Culter, vi. Lanark, 346 Greenland hill, xv. Caithness, 39 (ireenlees moss, iii. Roxburgh, 148— ^;oal at, 149 Greenlaw hill, xii. Aberdeen, 748 Greenlaw parish, ii. Berwick, 40— moor, 64— town, 40, 44, 46 Greenlaw, prisoners* depot at, i. Edin- burgh, 317 Greenlaw house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 197 Greenlaw house, vii. Renfrew, 198 Greenmill village, iv. Dumfries, 356 Greenock parish and town, vii. Renfrew, 405— bank, 409— house, 412, 425— water, v. Ayr, 130, 149 tireenridgc collier}', ii. Linlithgow, 77 Cireenriver plantations, iii. Roxburgh, 213 Greenside church, L Edinburgh, 665 — hospital, 658 Greenskams propertv, xiii. Banff, 284, 287, 288 Greenstone point, xiv. Ross, 92 Greentable hill, xv. Sutherland, 194 Greenwell {>l>eli8k, xv. Shetland, 39 Greenyard bum, xiv. Ross, 74, 91 — iBle,74 Greenyards collieries, viii. Stirling, 310,331 Greeto bum, v. Ayr, 789 Greggary rock, iv.' Wigton, 131 Gregory castle, xi. Forfiir, 490 Gregory's well, xiL Aberdeen, 753 Greg's cairn, xi. Forfar, 546 Oreim hill, xv. Caithness, 13 Gremista house, xv. Shetland, 3 Grennan hill, iv. Wigton, 201 — bay, i6. Qress district, xiv. Iloss, 1 15 — house, 116 — water, 120— caim at, 126 Gretna green, iv. Dumfries, 273 — village, 269 Grey caim, iv. Kirkcudbright, 132 Grey caim of Cromarty, xiv. R'iii. Stirling, 21 1 — quarrv, 208 Hainuck well, xiv. Ross, 382 Hair cairn, xi. Forfiir, 486 Hairlaw, battle of, viL Renfrew, 307 — loch, 316 Hairlaw limeworks, iL Haddington, 176 — property, 181 Hairlees colliery, vi Lanark, 723 Hairst loan, vii Renfrew, 4 Halbcath colUery, ix. Fife, 835, 837— village, 874 Halbury castle, xv. Sutherland, 141 Half Davoch mill, xiii. Elgin, 191 Haliedcan deer park, iii. Roxburgh, 38 Halimidel quarry, v. Bute, 10 Halket loch, v. Ayr, 290 Halkerston tower, i. Edinburgh, 175 Halkerton house, xi Kincardine, 1 31, 1 38 — wood, 25 Halkirk parish, xv. Caithness, 68 — water, 69— viUage, 78, 82 Hall limeworks, vi. Lanark, 882 Halladale mission, xv. Caithness, 79 — river, 15— strath, 12, 13, 17, 19 Halll)ar colliery, vi Lanark, 568— spring at, 566— tower, 581 Hallcraig bridge, vi. Lanark, 573 Hallcraig hill, i. Edinburgh, 436 llalleaths house and woods, iv. Dumfries, 379, 383 Hallerhirst limeworks, v. Ayr, 438 Hall Forest castle, xii. Aberdeen, 658 Hallgreen castle, xi. Kincardine, 7 — farm, 21 Hallgreen priory and tower, iv. Dumfries, 490 Hallguards castle, iv. Dumfries, 292 Hallhend house, &c. xii. Aberdeen, 1113, 1123 Hallhill, coal at, vii. Renfrew, 82, 83, 101 Halihill house and castle, vi Lanark, 295, 296 Halliday hills, iv. Dumfries, 462 Hall Manner, camp at, iii Peebles, 1 1 6 Hallmoadow, embankment at, iv. Dum- fries, 529 OEKEBAL IKDBX. lxx.i Hallmyre bay, iii. Peebles, 135 Hallodalo strath, xv. Sutherland, 214— river, 215 Hallrule, improvements At, iii. Roxburgh, 217— mill, 210 Hallyards house, ix. Fife, 250 Hallyards house, iii. Peebles, 114 Hallyburton house, xi. Forfar, 641, 644 Halflary mission, xv. Caithness, 79 Halterbum, camp at, iiL Roxburgh, 1 63 llultin glen, xiv. Inverness, 286 Halyhill, X.Perth, 1173 Haly Kirk, xv. Orkney, 54 Ham harl>our, &c. xv. Caithness, 39, 46 Hamer, annexed parish of, iL Haddington, 29 Hamils* hill chapel, v. Ayr, 635 Hamilton parish, vi. Lanark, 249— town, 251, 283— green and bridge, 285— pa- lace and grounds, 269, 271, 278, 957 Hamilton house, Fala, i. Edinburgh, 535 Hamilton Farme, property of, vi. Lanark, 375, 376— colliery, 378— tumulus at, 383 Hammers ness, xv. Shetland, 8, 24 — voe, 71 Hammersfield, burial place at, xv. Shet- land, 25 Hamna voe, xv. Shetland, 71, 83 Handa isle, xv. Sutherland^ 120, 132, 218 — sound, 120 Handcrick head, xiv. Ross, 74 Hanged men's trees, x. Perth, 425 Hanging myre, the, ix. Fife, 923 Hangingshaw house and wood, iii. Set- kirk, 43— law, 30 Hangman^} brae, vi. Lanark, 120 Hanley house, i. Edinburgh, 214 Hapland bum, iv. Dumfries, 323 Harbour craig, iii. Peebles, 157 Harbum house, I Edinburgh, 306 Hardacres bog, ii. Berwick, 54 — ^hill and camp, 56 Harden house, iii. Roxbuigh, 90, 91 — ■ water, 442 Hardgate factory, viiL Dunbarton« 25 — village, 29 Hardhili collieries, ii. Linlithgow, 1 54 Hardhill property, v. Ayr, 836 Hardie'S hill, ii. Berwick, 176 Hardington house, vL Lanark, 94, 817 Hardmuir, the, xiii. Elgin, 216 Hare craig, xi. Forfar, 6 Hare well, iii. Roxburgh, 1 05 Harecaims limeworks, vi. Lanark, 850 Harelaw moor, camp, &c. at, ii. Berwick, 65, 72 Harelaw limeworks, iv. Dumfries, 486 — tower, 489 Harelaw moor, i. Edinburgh, 543— cairn at, 547 Harelaw cairn, vi. Lanark, 891 Harelaw craigs, remains at, vii. Renfi«w, 197 Harelaw, remains at, viil Stirling, 210 Hares den, xi. Kincardine, 155 Harestancs loch, limeworks, &c. vi. La- nark, 569, 573 Harestancs, remains at, iii. Peebles, 129, Roxbuigh, 244 Harestonc bum, iii. Peebles, 59— planta- tions, 62 Harifs or Heriot*s dyke, il Berwick, 43, 72 Harker rocks, the, ii. Berwick, 131, 319 Harlamuir colliery, iii Peebles, 155 Harlan house, xv. Caithness, 142 Harland, remains at, xv. Caithness, 138 Ilarlaw, battle of, xii. Aberdeen, 566, 569 Harlaw limeworks, ii. Berwick, 53 Harold's tower, xv. Caithness, 4 Harold swick bay, xv. Shetland, 38 — burial ground, 40 Harpercroft, camps at, v. Ayr, 678 Harrav, annexed parish of, xv. Orkney, 148', 154 Harris parish, xiv. Invernen, 155 — sound, ib. 159 Harrow loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 110 Hart bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 5 Hartfell hills, iii. Peebles, 56, iv. Dum- fries, 102, 103— spa, 106 Hartficld house, zv. Caithness, 114 Hartfield, improvements at, &c. vii. Ren- firew, 317,319 Harthiil castle, xii. Aberdeen, 638 Harthill tillage, vi. Lanark, 631 Harthope, iv. Dumfries, 102 Hartrec house, vi- Lanark, 342, 344 Harts haug|i,iii. RoxburglL, 210 Hart's leap, iii Selkirk, 44 Hartshaw tower, viiL Clackmannan, 126 Hartside district, vi. Lanark, 805<^bum 806, 810 Hartwood house, L Edinburgh, 306 Harvieston house, viii. Clackmannan, 68, 70,71,72 Har\'ie8ton house, i. Edinburgh, 173, 179 Harwood house, i. Edinburgh, 306 Hasscndcan house, iiL Roxbiurgh, 356— suppressed parish of, 353^-propertv, 367— tower, 356, 370 Hasseussay isle, xv. Shetland, 82 Hassington, remains at, ii. Berwick, 58 Hatherstane law, vi. Lanark, 806 Hatteraick^ cave, iv. Kirkcudbright, 315 Hatton castle, xii. Aberdeen, 994 Hatton house and propertv, i. Edinbuigh, 82,92 Hatton castle, xi. Forfar, 559 — hill, 558 Hatton house, xi. Kincardine, 302 — quarry, 299 Hattonbum distillery, ix. Kinross, 69 Hattonden Victories, xi. For&r, 407 Hattonmill, coins found at, xi. Forfar, 398 Haugh village, ▼. Ayr, 162, 164 Haugh bleachfield and fiictory, ix. Fife, 675, 676 Haugh of Finhaven, xi. Forfiy, 292 Haugh of Kinnell fitctory, xl For&r, 407 Ixxii GEVE&AL UTDEX. Haugh colliery, vii Renfrew, 158 llaugliheod of Hawick, iii Roxburgh, 379 Haugh head houne, &c. iiL Roxbur^, 223, 226 Haughhead village, viii. Stirling, 258 Haughn of Benholme bav, xl Kincardine, 52 Uaughs of Cromdalc, battle of, xir. In- vcniew, 434 Haughit of Kilmaichlic, xiii. Banff, 133 Haughton house, xiL Aberdeen, 497, 500 Haulkcrton house, xi. Kincardine, 131, 138 Hauster bum, xv. Caithness, 123 Hawick parish, iii. Roxburgh, 379 — tfiwn, 80, 81, 387, 396, 404, 406 Hawk hill, ii. Haddington, 284 Hawkhead colliery, &c. vii. Renfrew, 152, 153, 157— house, 194 Hawkhill school, xi. Forfar, 45 Hawkhill of Lunan, xL Forfar, 325 Hawkhill of Stevenson, v. Ayr, 455 Hawk law, cairn on, xii. Al>erdeen, 622 Hawkley muir village, ix. Fife, 135, 139 Hawkshaw tower and wood, iii. Peebles, 61, 63 Hawkslaw quarry, ii. Berwick, 202 Hawkstone village, x. Pertli, 633 Hawkwood hills, vL Ijanark, 301 Ilawthomdcn castle, house, &.c. I Edin- burgh, 330, 331 Hawtroe, camp at, i. Edinbuigh, 416 Haxtilgate, the, iii. Roxburgh, 61 Hayland loch, xv. Caithness, 36 Iljiylie house, pn)i>erty, &c v. Ayr, 792, 800 Hayiic castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 54 Hayocks house, v. Ayr, 451 HavHton hill, remains on, xi. Forfar, 346 HayHtone plantations, iiL Peebles, 13— bum, 2 Hazeldean moss, vi. Liinark, 470 Hazelhead house, xii. Aberdeen, 238 Ha/elhead castle, v. Ayr, 572, 576 — limcworks, 573 Hazzlebcrry, lead ore at, iv. Dumfries, 196 Hazzlcilen (juarry, ix. Fife, 305 Heacamhall hill, xiv. Inverness, 182 Hcficle hill, xiv. Inverness, 182 Head of Side, vii. Renfrew, 517 Headlesscross, ironstone at, vi. Lanark, 610 Hemls house, vi. Lanark, 296 — village, 299 Heads of Ayr hills, v. Ayr, 2, 351 Heads of Kduv, xv. Orkacv, 121 Ileadshnw loch, iii. Roxburgh, 269 Heart's hill, viii. Stirling, 325 Heathcot house, xi. Kincardine, 191 Heather hope, iii. Roxburgh, 191 Heatherlands, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 1 97 Hcatherwick house, ii. Haddington, 80 Heathery hillock, church at, xiii. Banff, 97 Heathet, sprii^ at, iv. Dumfries, 485 HeathHeld, improvements at, vii. Ren* frew, 101 Heaven aqua well, iiL Peebles, 156 Hecla hill, xiv. Inverness, 182 Heclaber rock, xv. Orkney, 87 Heck, reUc found at, iv. Dumfries, SB6— village, 387 Hedderwick house, iL Haddington, 80 Hedderwick quarry, xi For&r, 273 Hee mount, xv. Sutherland, 214 Heeds house, remains at, iiL Roxburgh, 444 Helenas castle, v. Ayr, 315 Helensburgh town, viii Dunborton, 71, 76, 79 Helenton, moat hill at, v. Ajrr, 566 Hellisay isle, xiv. Inverness, 200 Hell lum, a cave, xiL Aberdeen, 589, xiii. Banff, 274 HeUmoor loch, iii. Roxburgfay 88, Sel- kirk, 36 Heirs cleugh hill, iiL Peebles, 127 Helmsdale castle, xv. Sutherland, 200 — church, 209— river, 134, 135, 137, 193, 195, 204— strath, 134, 135 — village, 134, 158, 192,202,204,208 Helshetter, spring at, xv. Caithness, 14 Helvcl hills, xiv. Inverness, 323 Hempriggs burgh and stachs, xv. Caith- ness, 118— house, 142— loch, 123 Henderland chapel, &c. iii. Peebles, 167, 168 Hcndersyde park, iii. Roxburgh, 421 Henlawshiel, iii. Roxburgh, 377 llenmuir coUierj-, ii. Haddington, 175 Henriettatown village, xiv. Ross, 392 Henry's Knoll, xiv. Inverness, 469 Hen wood, the, iii. Roxburgh, 261 Henzie hunt, xv. Orkney, 141 Heogaland isle, xv. Shetland, 38 Heogs heads, xv. Shetland, 37 Herbertshire house and property, viii. Stirling, 116, 117, 381— papermUls, 123, 127— printworks, 384— viUaire, 115,385 Herdmanston house and church, ii. H al- dington, 115 Herdsman rock, vii. Argyle, 352 Heriot parish, i. Edinburgh, 198— house, 202— water, 198, 199, 403 Heriot 's hospital, L Edinburgh, 721 — schools, 685 Heriottown hill, remains on, i. EdinburKh, 202 Herlaw cairn, vL Lanark, 891 Hermand house, i. Edinburgh, 306 Hermiston, remains at, i. Edinburgh, 547 Hermitage bum, x. Perth, 1006 Hermitage castle and church, iii. Rox- burgh, 443— hill, 441— water, 441, 461 Hermyres, limestone at, vi. Lanark, 882 Herric strath, xiv. Inverness, 52, 58 Herring voe, xv. Shetland, 100 Herring yair, vii. Renfrew, 8 QBKB&AL IHDBX. Ixxiii Hennm neit, xt. Caithneii, 36 Herriot^ djke, il Berwick, 43, 72 Heraton qiuury, xt. Orkney, 191 Hertons hiU cairn, iiL S^Udrk, 47 Heston isle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 356 Heuch of Cou>, x. Perth, 285 Heugh of Tranent, ii. Haddington, 283 Heughhead village, xii. Aberdeen, 553 Heughhead tower, ii Berwick, 285 Heiighmill, the, v. Ajr, 766 Heugbs of Kilmany, ix. Fife, 549 Hevera isle, xv. Shetland, 9 Heynish bay, vii. Argyle, 197 Hier well, iiL Roxbiugh, 105 Hieton village, iii Roxburgh, 132, 133 Higham farm, xi. For&r, li23 High Auchenlodmont, coal at, viL Ren- frew, 153 Highauchaane, camp on, iv. Dumfries, 44 High bridge, xiv. InvemeeB, 504 Highchesters, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 90 High craig quarry, vii. Renfrew, 155 High cross knoll, vL Lanarlc, 256 High church parish. Paisley, vii Renfrew, 226, 238 Highfield house, xiv. Ross, 401 Highfleld quarries, v. Ayr, 220, 232 Highlanders* academy, vii Renfivw, 465 Highlandman'b hammerrock, xv. Orkney, 122, 127 Highlaws hill and quarry, ii Berwick, 320 Highmoor well, iv. Dimifries, 276 High PriesthiU &nn, v. Ayr, 148 High school of Stirling, viii Stirling, 441 Hightae flow, remains at, iv. Wigton, 233 —loch, Dumfries, 379— village, 387 Highton water, iii Peebles, 79 High work lead mine, vi Lanark, 336 Hilderstonhill colliery, ii. Linlithgow, 37 Hill property, v. Bute, 74 Hill house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 335 HiU of Angel^ vii Argyle, 337 Hill of Beith moathilU v. Ayr, 579 HiU of KeiUor village, xi For&r, 559, 562 HiU of Rattray, x. Perth, 241 Hill of Torbolton, v. Ayr, 741, 746, 747 Hill dike of Evie, xv. Orkney, 196 Hillend vilhige, ix. Fife, 188, 242, 244 Hillend of Muiravonside, viii Stirling, 207 Hillend of Pitcon colUery, v. Ayr, 232 Hillfort of DoUar, viii Clackmanman, 76 HilUiead house, x. Perth, 676 Hillhead of Bervie &rm, xiKincardine,2I Hillhead of Carluke ironstone pits, Ac. vi Lanark, 5G9, 571 Hillhead of Cockpen, soil at, i Edinburgh, 606— house, 608 HiUhead of Kilbride limewerks, vi La- nark, 882 HUlhead of Monntbleary, xiii Banff, 148 HiUhead of Penpont quarry, iv. Dum- fries, 501 Hillhead of Pettie, tumulus at, xiv. Invei^ ncss,292 VOL. XV. Hillhead of Stranraer village, iv. Wigton, 95, 126 Hillhouse house and property, v. Ayr, 673, 677 HiUhouse house, i Edinburgh, 442 Hillhouse hill, vi. Lanark, 807 Hillhouse quarry, ii Linlithgow, 1 79 Hilliclay common, xv. Caithness, 60 HiUs castle, iv. Kirkcudbright, 288 Hillside house, Aberdour, ix. Fife, 718 HiUside house, Saline, ix. Fife, 709 HiUslop tower, iii Roxbuigh, 58 Hillswick voe and ness, xv. Shetland, 71 Hilton, annexed parish o!^ ii Berwick, 166 Hilton, Auchtergaven, quarry, x. Perth, 428 Hilton, Contin, spring at, xiv. Ross, 236 Hilton, Cupar, house, ix. Fife, 8 Hilton, Dundee, school at, xi Forfisur, 45 Hilton, Feam, lawhUl, xi Forfiu-, 314 Hilton, Feam, vilhige, xiv. Roes, 860 Hilton, Fodderty, remains at, xiv. Ross, 252, 253 Hilton, Nigg, stone at, xiv. Ross, 28 Hilton, Old Machar, house, xii. Aberdeen, 1076 Hilton, Turriff,spring at, xii Aberdeen, 983 HindigEurth head, xv. Shethind, 83 HinistU glen, xiv. Inverness, 286 Hirsel house, ii Berwick, 208— law, 202 — l^ch, 200 Hirst colliery, viii Dunbarton, 136 Hirst hill, li LinUthgow, 76 Hirst tower, iv. Dumfries, 266 Hislop, coins found at, iii Roxbui^ 394 Hoan isle, xv, Sutherland, 86 Hoardweel, copper ore at, ii Berwick, 117 Hol^bUn hall, ii Haddington, 157 Hobkirk or Hopekirk pimsh, iii Rox- burgh, 208 Hoddam parish, iv. Dumfries, 289— castle, 250 Hodges colliery, ii Haddington, 176-« plantations, 177 Hogganfield loch, vi. Lanark, 104, 206 Hoghmcie, fort at, xiv. Inverness, 188 Hogs hole, remains found at, xi Kincar- dine, 155, 161 Holbum Street, Aberdeen, quoad sacra parish of, xii Aberdeen, 1077 Holbum head, xv. Caithness, 1 Hole, Eaglesham,rocksat, vii RenfVew, 387 Hole, Kirkintilloch, spinning mills at, viii Dunbarton, 199 Hole of Row, XV. Oriuiey, 42, 173 Holehouse hill, iv. Dumfries, 67 Holekettle Bumside, village, ix. Fife, 106, 109 Holemerry, vi Lanark, 503 Holemill loch, xi For&r, ^49 Holeton, unis found at, ix. Kinross, 60 Holhouse limeworks, iv. Dumfries, 487 Holland Hirst collieries, viii. Dunbarton, 175, 176, 179 k Ixxiv OSHERAL IITDBX. liolIandA )jay, xf. Orkney, 157 Ilollock wHter, viii. Stirling, 206 Hoilowood hili^ viL Renfrew, 98, 104 floIlowH burn, iii. Peebles, 82 IloUoim Uiwer, && i?. Dumfriet, 487,489 Holly mount, iv. Dumfries, 452 Hollybush houite, v. Ayr, 275, 278 II oily lee house, iii. Peebles, 27, 30 Holm, remains at, ▼. Ayr, 194 Holm, improvement of, iv. Ihimfiiet, 816 — Druidical temple, 559 Holm bum, xlv. Invemets, 4 — house and property, 452, 455 Holm island and point, xiv. Ross, 118— village, 136 Holm of Noss, xv. Shetland, 8 Holmains hills, iv. Dumfries, 371— tower, 373 Holme sound, xv. Orkney, 16, 204, 225 Holme and Paplay, united parishes ot, XV. Orkney, 204, 218 Holms, limestone at, vi Lanark, 402 Holms water, iii. Peebles, 79 Holton square village, viii. Clackmannan, 44 Holy loch, vii. Argyle, 571, 602 Holy isle, v. Bute, 4, 10, 24 Holy mound, i. Edinburgh, 657 Holy linn, iv. Kirkcudbright, 99 Holy dean castle, iii. Roxburgh, 36 Holy Manhead cave, xiiL Elgin, 149 Holyrood abbey, i. Edinburgh, 660— pa- lace and chapel, 653 Holy wood chapel, xiii. Banff, 29 Holytown railway, vi. Lanark, 766 — vil- lage, 7J)3, 797 Holy wood parish, iv. Dumfries, 553 — abl)cy, 558 — village, 563 Homeby re, remains found at, v. Ayr, 194 Hone stone, the, xv. Caithness, 1 15 H(M)d'8 hill, V. Ayr, 748 Hcman, village of, xiii. Elgin, 38, 40 Hope park chapel, L Edinburgh, 665 Hopes house, &c. il Haddington, 96 Hopesrigg house, iv. Dumfries, 431 Hope Temple museum, vii. Renfrew, 294 Hopeton house and grounds, ii. Linlitli- gow, 20, 21, 22, 27 Hop Pringle castle, i. Edinburgh, 417 Hoprig property, ii. Haddington, 177, 181 Horn, mount, xv. Sutherland, 24, 149, 150— loch, 25 Homcliffe village, ii. Berwick, 1 62 Homdene, ancient parish of, ii. Bcft-wick, 180— village, 183 Horse isle, v. Ayr, 192 Horse iale, xiv. Inverness, 145 Horschopshank tower, iiL Peebles, 116 Horslcy hill tower, iii. Roxburgh, 370 Hotecoat house, &e, m. Roxboigb, 90, 9i Hoselaw chapel, iii. Rozbui]^, 152 — hill, 145— loch, 148— Tillage, 153 Hospital quarry, xiiL El^n, 98 Hospitalfield house, zL For&r, 498 Hospitalmill quarry, ix. Vife, 559— apin- ning miUs, 573 — village, 574 Houff burial place, xL Kincardme, 252 Houff of Liunphanan, xii. Aberdeen, 1091 Houg-jrhary bay, xir. InTemess, 161 Hounam parish, iiL Roxburgh 188— • camp, 197— law,189— viUa^ 188,198, 203 Houndhill, camp on, iiL Peebles, 116 Houndwood tower, iL Berwick, 285 Hounslow quarry, iL Berwick, 66— village, 83 Houm loch, xiv. [nvemeas, 129, 525 House isle, xv. Shetland, 8 House of Clyne, remains at, xIt. Rom, 321 House of Refrige, Glasgow, vL Lanark, 217 Housebay, burial ground at, xv. Orkney, 159 Househill house, xiiL Nairn, 2 Househill house, viL Renfrew, 150, 198 — colliery, 157 Houston and Killallany united parishes of, viL Renfrew, 46 Houston colliery, iL Linlithgow, 88 <— house, 86, 87 Houston head, xv. Orkney, 13 — cave, 14 — isle, 15 Houston bleachfield, &.c. viL Renfrew, 52 — plantations, 47 — village, 53 Hova head, xv. Shetland, 8 How house, xv. Orkney, 80 How muir, v. Avr, 352 How of Alford, xii. Aberdeen, 486, 611 How of Annandale, iv. Dumfiries, 451 How of Applegarth, iv. Dumfries, 172 How of Corrichie, battle of, xL Kincar- dine, 338 How of Garioch, xiL Aberdeen, 748 How of Oarvoch, xL Kincardine, 23 Howof Habrahelia cave, xv. Orkney, 117 How of the Meams, xL Kincardine, 23, 68, 129, 298 How of Moray, xiiL Elgin, 2 Howdean, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 1 1— moor, ruins at, 4, 13 Howgate village, L Edinburgh, 45 Ilowgate mouth lead mine, vL Lanark, 519 Howler's hill village, vL Lanark, 431 Howlet bum limeworks, v. Ayr, 835 Howliston tower, &c L Edinburgh, 417 Ilownam mains, camp on, iiL Roxburgh, 197 Howquhay head, xv. Orkney, 204 Howrat limeworks, v. Ayr, 232, 804 Howwood limeworks, vii. Renfirew, 83 Hoy head, hill, &c. xv. Orkney, 26, 27, 49, 206— isle, 70— sound, 27 OENEBAL INDEX. Ixxv Hoy and Graemsay, united parishes of, XV. Orkney, 40 Hoxa quarry, xr. Orkney, 191 Hubie, remains at, xy. Shetland, 25 Huggenfield, limestone at, yiii. Dunbar- ton, 181 Hugh's castle, xi?. Inverness, 258 Hugh^i fair, xiv. Ross, 26 Huille moss, ii. Berwick, 41 Iluip isles and ness, xv. Orkney, 157 Hullerhirst house, v. Ayr, 451 Humbie quarry, i Edinburgh, 144, ii. Linlithgow, 91 Humbie parish, ii. Haddington, 100 — bum, 101, 106 Humble Bumble, the, x. Perth, 1172 Hume, annexed parish of, iii. Roxbuigh, 456— castle, 457 Hume's vault, ii. Berwick, 2S2 Huna bay, xv. Caithness, 22 — ^isle, Ork- ney, 72, Shetland, 38 — post-office, C^thness, 31 Hunda isle, xv. Orkney, 191 Hundalee mill, rocks at, iii. Roxburgh, 3 ^tower, 11 — caves, 12 — house, 14 Ilunish point, xiv. Inverness, 221, 240 Hunt hill, xiii. Elgin, 60 Hunterian museum, vi. Lanark, 175 Hunter's bog, i. Edinburgh, 619 — craig, 592 Hunter's hill, plantations at, xi Kincar- dine, 69 Huntcrston property, &c. ▼. Ayr, 249, 256 — remains found at, 258 Huntfield house, &c. vi Lanark, 43, 45 Hunthill house, iii. Roxburgh, 3, 14 — tower, 1 1 Hunthill village, vi. Lanark, 321 Huntington house, ii Haddington, 6 Huntingtower castle, x. Perth, 1030, 1 031— bleachfield, 1 032, 1034— village, 1036 Huntlaw collieries, ii. Haddington, 347 Huntly parish, xii. Aberdeen, 1036— castle and town, 1037 — Agricultural Association, 1040 Huntly castle, x. Perth, 409 Huntly village, ii. Berwick, 34 Huntly cot lulls, i Edinburgh, 49 Hurkledale, coins found at, iv. Dumfries, 249 Hurlct alum works, vi. Lanark, 166, viii Stirling, 171, vii Renfrew, 149, 154, 158 — collieries, Umeworks, &c 150, 152, 153, 157— village, 137, 200^249 Hurlford village, v. Ayr, 249 Hurly Ilaaky hill, viii. Stirling, 403 Hurly Hawkin castle, xi. Forfar, 580 Husker isle and anchorage, xiv. Inverness, 162, 163 Hutcheson's hospital, vi Lanark, 684 Hutchesontown, manufactures of, vi. La- nark, 696 Hutig, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 165, 170 Hutton parish, ii Berwick, 150 — Agri- cultural Anociation, 160 — ^hall, 151, 153— village, 154, 161 Hutton hills, iv. Dumfries, 170 Hutton and Corrie, united parishes of, iv. Dumfries, 537 Hynd castle, xi Forfar, 486 Hyndfbrd bridge, vi Lanark, 4 — village, 24 Hyndlee farm, iii Roxburgh, 99 Hyndshaw, coal at,vi Lanark, 567'-pro- perty, 579 Hyndshieland, remains found at, vi. La- nark, 854 I, isle and sound of, Wi Arg\'lc, 297 lasgair isle, xiv. Inverness, 240 Ibris isle, ii Haddington, 204 Icolmkill, see lona Idoch bum, xii Aberdeen, 763 Idrigil point, xiv. Inverness, 324 — house, 325 Idvies, barony, xi. Forfar, 383 Hie water, xv. Sutherland, 1 37 Hleray isle, xiv. Inverness, 163 Imachar, school at, v. Bute, 66, 67 Imcrsay isle, vii Arg>'le, 661 Inailite village, xiv. Ross, 136 Inaltorie castle, xiii Banff, 67 Inch house, i. Edinburgh, 11 Inch isle, ix. Kinross, 3 Inch loch, xiv. Invemess, 83 Inch parish, iv. Wigton, 80 Inch of Forfar, mins of^ xi. For&r, 695 Inchard loch, xv. Sutherland, 119 — wa- ter, 120, 216 Inchbare village, xi Forfar, 668 Ittchbelly bridge, &c. viii Dunbarton, 145, 174 — plantations, Stirling, 145 Inchberry property, xiii Elgin, 231 Inchbervie castle, x. Perth, 433 Inchbrakie Yew, &c. x. Perth, 495, 503 Inchbravock, annexed parish of, xi. For- &r, 245— house, 252— isle, 282 Inchbreck, viii Dunbarton, 174 Inchcaileoch isle, viii Stirling, 89, 90 Inchcolm isle and monastery, ix. Fife, 71 T Inchconachan isle, viii Dunbarton, 156^ 157 Inchcoultor, improreraents at, xiv. Ross^ 325 Inchcruin isle, viii. Dunbarton, 233 Inchdrewer castle, xiii Banff, 30 — house^ &c. 13^226 Incheffray abbey, x. Perth, 749 Inches bum, xiv. Invemess, 4 — castle, 15 — property, 445, 456 — quarries, 44ft Inches of Grangemouth, viii Stirling, 26 Inchfad isle, viii Dunbarton, 233 Inchfriechlan isle, viii. Dunbarton, 156, 157 Inch Galbraith isle, viii Dimbarton, 15^, 157 Inch Garvie isle, ii Linlithgow, 1, 101, ix. Fife, 231, 240 Inchinnan parish, vii Renfrew, 113^ bridge, 2&, 27— palace, 12a Ixxvi aSHBEAL IVDSX. •i Inchkcith isle and Ughthouae, ix. Fife, 801,819 Ifichlaw hill, ix. Fife, 426 Inchlonaig isle, viiL Dunbarton, 156 Inchmnhone isle, x. Perth, 1097 — loch, 101)5, 1097— priory, 1105 Inchmarlo house, &c. xL Kincardine, 825, 3-26* Inchmarnock isle, ▼. Bute, 96, 104 Inchmartin, remains at, x. Perth, 885 Inch Mickcrj isle, L Edinbur]^, 592 Inchmill spinning mills, xi Forfer, 601 Inchmoan isle, viiL Dunbarton, 156, 157 Inchmurren isle, viii. Dunbarton, 156 Inchriuch hill, xiii. Elgin, 137 Inchrory marl hank, xiii Banff, 299 Inchr^'c house, ix. Fife, 52 Inchtavanach isle, viii. Dunbarton, 157 Inchtcrif moss, viii. Stirling, 143 Inchture parish, x. Perth, 825— Tillage, 836 Inchtuthil, camp at, x. Perth, 674 Inch wood bum, viii. Stirling, 139 Inchv chapel, x. Perth, 1 1 05 Inchym hill, x. Perth, 609— house, 988 — ^-illage, 933 Indaal loch, xiv. Inverness, 317 Indorb loch, xiv. Inverness, 433 Ing glen, vii. Arg}ie, 126 Ingnn hills, ix. Kinross, 38 Inganufls bav, xv. Orknev, I, 169, 170, 172 Inglis green bleachfield, i. Edinburgh, 125 Inglismaldie bouse, xi Kincardine, 26, 300, 302— quarry, 299 Ingliston house, xi. Forfiir, 218— camp at, 476 Inimore cave, viii. Argyle, 300 Inishail isle, vii Arg)ie, 82— nunnery, 97 Inishchonnel isle, vii. Argj'le, 373 Inishdrynich house, vii Argylc, 98 Inisherrich church, vii Argyle, 373 Inishkenneth isle, vii Argyle, 297, 300 — house, 306 Inistil glen, xiv. Inverness, 286 Inkcraig spring, ix. Fife, 691 Inkstack ({uarry, xv. Caithness, 45 Inaeravon, remains found at, ii Linlith^ gow, 123— tower, 129 Inncrfearan, see Dingwall Innergelly woods, ix. Fife, 973, 974 Inncrkip parish, vii. Renfrew, 525 Innerleithen parish, iii. Peebles, 24— spring and village, 26, 27 Innermessan moat, iv. Wigton, 86 — castle, 87 Innerpefikn' church, &c. x. Perth, 315, 3.S1 Innersand, chrome ore at, xv. Shetlaad, 103 Innertig, church at, v. Ayr, 422 Innerwell jwrt, &c. iv. Wigton, 23 — fisherk-, 32 innerwick parish, ii. Haddington, 233— castle, 236, 240— village, 233, 246 I \i Iniiaa boose, xiii. Elgiii, 45, 46— i at, 46— Tillage, 47 nnocent^ how, xiii. Elgin* 46 nnoTBl head, xt. Orkney, 116 nord loch, xiv. Ininnw, 219 nsch pariah, xiL A b e id ee n , 747— vil- lage, 757 nsch of Stevenston, ▼. Ayr, 4S7 nsh sound, vii. Argrle, 71 Qshewan house, xi. Forfitf, 300 nshoch moaa, xiii Nairn, nver village, x. Perth, 1010 nver vilbige, xiv. Roaa^ 282, 292, 294 nver loch, xr. Sutherland, 108 nverallan, annexed pariah oC xiv. lBitr« nesB, 432 nveraliochy castle, xii. AbenSeen, 294— house, 295 — TiUsige, 295, 296 nverarity pariah, xL For&r, 234 nveraiy parish, Tii Aigyle, 1— «asKk,9 —town, 1, 34 nveraven pariah, xiii Banfi^ 123 nveravon towec, iL Unlithgow, 129 nveraven property, Ti. Lanark, 268 nverawe house, vii Aigyle, 98, 501 nverbervie town, xi. Kincardine, 1,1^ 15— -cross, 7 nverbervie castle, x. Perth, 433 nverbrora fiinn, xt. Sutherland, 130 nverbrothock district, xi. Foifv, 4S9« 490— church, 515 nvercanny property, xi Kincardine, 325 nvercarron district, xi. Kincardine^ 216 nvercarron house, xiv. Roaa, 419 nvercauld house, xii Aberdeen, 649. 631 nverchaolain pariah, viL Arigrle, 108 nverchaman, trees at, vii. Argyle, 484 nverchorron, battle o^ xiv. Ross, 407 nverchastly £mn, xv. Sutherland, 19 nvereighty house, &c xi Forfw, 218, 235 nvereman house, xii Aberdeen, 547 nvereme house, xiii. Elgin, 167 nvereshie property, xiv. InvemesB, 87 nveresk parish, i Edinburgh, 246— til- lage, 246, 247, 250 nvercskandy &nn, xi Forfiir, 66S nverfolla obelisk, vii Argj-le, 242 nvergarry house, xiv. Invemeaa, 511 nvergordon castle, xiv. Roas, jTjI ncsa 263— village, 272, 275 nvcrgowrie, annexed pariah of, xi For- far, 568— bay, 576 — bum, 569 — church, 581 — house, 578 nverichny property, xiii Banff, 158 nveric house, xiv. Invemesa, 1 35 nverinate bay, xiv. Roes, 172 nverkeilor paiisb, xi Forfiu-, 239— vil- lage, 241 nvcrkcithing and Rosyth, united parish of, ix. Fife, 230 nvcrkcithing, battle of, ix. Fife, 865— town, 236,241,242, 244 nverkcithny parish, xiii. Banfl^ 211— village, 384 • QBHBRAL IHDBX. Ixxvii Invcrkirkig water and fitUa, xt. Suther^ land, 106, 108 nverleven Tillage, ix. Fife, 682 nverlochy, battle of, xir. iDTerneM, 509 — castle, 508 nvermark castle, xi Forfar, 194 Dvennay house, &c x. Perth, 11 74, 11 75 nvermoriaton chapel, xiv. Invemen, 49 — distillery, &c 47 n?ermoustoD house, xiy. Invemen, 296 ! nvcmeil house, vii Aigyle, 262 i nvemess parish and town, xiy. Inyemeia, ' 1 — educational society, 29 i nvemess-shire, observations on, xiy. In- verness, 524 nvemettie hill, xii Aberdeen, 345 — pro* perty, 361 nvemochty douse, xiL Aberdeen, 544— parish, see Strathdon nverquharity braes, xi. Forfar, 159 — castle, 171 nverquiech castle, x. Perth, 1116 nversnaid cave, viii. Stirling, 94 nvertiel village, ix. Fife, 81 1— ^uooci «h era parish, 815 nverugie castle, xii. Aberdeen, 195, 353 nverugie house, xiii. Elgin, 37 nveruglasB bay, viiL Dunbarton, 9&— water, &c 156, 234 nverurie parish, xii Aberdeen, 677— battle, 679— canal, 68, 683— castle, 678 —town, 677, 683, 684— vale, 677 nvery property, xL Kincardine, 324 nweary bum, ix. Fife, 339 nzievar house, ix. Fife, 799 ona, isle and qtioad aatra parish of, viL Aigyle, 297, 312, 320, 331 orsa loch, v. Bute, 42 re isle, xv. Orkney, 85 rcnan cairn, xiv. Ross, 63 riith channel, iv. Wigton, 102, 123, 129, 162 rishlaw hill, v. Ayr, 787 mie hill, ix. Fife, 970 ron isle, v. Bute, 41 rongath hills, ii. Linlithgow, 55, 121 rongray parish, iv. Kirkcudbright, 265 rons hill, xL Forfar, 825 rvine parish and town, v. Ayr, 61 9 — ^har- bour, 683— water, 179, 180, 436, 523, 535,537,606,619,667,835 sa isle, xiv. Inverness, 326 tsbister, remains at, xv. Orkney, 55 shour loch, xv. Sutherland, 87 sla water, xiii. Banff, 200, 209, 213, 214, 388 sla water, xi. For&r, 413, 421, 423, 687, 670, 675, 691, x. Perth, 233, 1110, 1111,1130,1141,1168,1180 slaad-nave church, vii. Aigyle, 650 sland Stalker castle, vii. Aigyle, 240 slay isle, viL Argyle, 644, 659, 668— house, 669 Me of Benleven, viii. Stirling, 100 Isle of Lochar, iv. Dumfties, 41 Isle of Whithorn, spring at, iv. Wigton, 53 — village, 55 Isleomaay, unprovements at, xiv. Inver- ness, 320 lUaw cairn, xiii BanS; 162 Ivar'b knowe, xv. Orkn^, 139 Ivy bank house, xiii Nairn, 2 Jackston hill, xi Kincardine, 270 Jackton village, vi Lanark, 880, 898 Janefield house, iv. Kirkcudbii^t, 25 Janet Caistairs' cave, xiii Banff, 255 Janetown, dun at, xiv. Ross, 110 JaneVa brae, aftnp at, iii Peebles, 9 Jardine haU, iv. Dumfries, 173, 175, 182, 184 Jed forest, iii Roxburgh 4, 99— water, 1, 2, 98, 254, 428 Jedbuigh parish, iii. Roxbuigh, 1— abbey, 7, 8— castle, 10, 14— town, 14, 17 Jellyhands property, xi Kincardine, 260 Jellyhobn rocks, viii Clackmannan, 23 Jemimaville, tumulus at, xiv. Roes, 45— village, 49 Jericho village, iv. Dumfries, 40 Jerviston house, vi Lanark, 784 Jerviswood property and house, vi Lanark, 7,12 Jock^i gill, spring at, vi Laaaric, 566 John Baptisfb well, xiv. Ross, 22, 246 John Knox*8 kirk, ii Haddington, 1 94 John Legg"* well, xiii Banff, 179 John of Blairbowieli chair, xii Aberdeen, 582 John oXJroafh house, xv. Caithness, 26 John Watson'h hospital, i Edinburgh, 725 Johnshaven bay, xi Kincardine, 52, 54 — village, 60, 61,270 Johnson'a cave, xv. Orkney, 27 Johnston lodge, &c xi Kincardine, 26, 131, 1.33— spring, 130— tower, 27,37 —trees at, 131 Johnston loch, vi Lanark, 401 Johnstone parish, iv. Dumfries, 151 Johnstone mills bridge, iv. Dumfries, 165 Johnstone castle, vii Renf)!ew, 198— ^MocKi 9aera parish, 135 — village, 190, 201, 249 Johnstone^ poot vi. Lanark, 810 Joppa village, v. Ayr, 662 Joppa village, i Edinburgh, 390, 393 Jordanhill collieries, vi Lanark, 672 Jordanhill, vii Renfrew, 2— house, 19 Jordanlaw, remains at, ii Berwick, 66 Jordanstone house, x. Perth, 1119 Jud^ent thorn, the, iv. Dumfries, 96 Juniper green village, i Edinburgh, 121 Jura isle and parish, vii Argyle, 534 Justinghaugh, remains at, viii Stirling 210 Kail water and valley, iii' Roxburgh, 145,. 147, 189, 191,221, 254, 428, 447,448,. 450 Kailzie houM^ &c. iii Roxbuigfa, Buppr o Med parish, 36 Kaim village^ xiii Qgm, 36 OBHERAL IFDSX. KaimofMBtbcn,!!. Kincardine, 3£, 278, EoiBin hill, L Edinburgh, 77— camp on, 91 KEdmw of AliUe hill, xL For&r, 613 Kaimea aT Kcclea, ii, Berwick, 58 KainieB of Greenlaw, ii. Ilerwick, 41 KaimhQl coliierr. riL Renfrew, 359 Kttir house, xi. Kincnrdiiw, 26, 161— re- main B found Hi, 1S5 Kiiimhill, ironstone pila at, n Lanark, 647 Rale. KG Kail Kale port, iv.^Vigton, 133, IS4 Kame bill, v. Arr,244,24e— quanr, 247 Kane water, ii. File, 719 Kames house, iL Berwick, 5S— loch, S4 Karnes bay. v. Bute, 6 651 Killallan, annexed pariah, &c. of^ vii Ren- frew, 46, 47 Killantringan bay, iv. Wi^^ton, 182 KiUarowand Kilmeny, united pariahes of, vii Argyle, 668 KiUbar, chapel at, xiv. Invemeaa^ 198, 206 KiUcraggan, ruina of chapel at, viii Dun- barton, 102 Kaidean, battle o^ viii Stirling^ 316 K iliean, ruina of church at, vii Argyle, 287 Killean, glen o^ xv. Sutherland, 149 KiUeam, pariah oi; viii Stirling, 60 — houae, 61, 63, 66— hilla, 38 Killeara and Kilchenxie, united pariahet o^ vii. Aigyle, 376 Killeaman, pariah o^ xiv. Roas, 63 Killennont houae, Slc viii. Dunbarton, 43, 49 Killevin church, ruina o^ vii Aigyle, 685 KiUian, locha at, vii Ai|Qrle, 6 Killiecrankie, paaa ot, x. Perth, 644— battle of; 564, 645 Killiedraught bay, ii Berwick, 318, 320 Killiemore, battle o^ iv. Wigton, 172U- remaina at, 177 KilUgray iale, xiv. Invemeaa, 155 Killin, pariah of, x. Perth, 1066 — village, 1090, 1091 Killin loch, xiv. Rosa, 236 KiUineaa point, iv. Wigton, 201 KUlock glen, &lla at, vii Renfrew, 317 Killoe water, iv. Diunfriea, 297 KiUoran houae, vii Aigyle, 545 Killundine castle, raina of; vii Argyle, 184 Kilmadan, parish of, vii. Argyle, 672 Kilmadock, pariah of, x. Perth, 1224 — ruins of church of; 1231 Kilmahew house, viii Dunbarton, 87 Kibnaichiie spring, ^uii Banfi^ 125--houae, 129 — ^remaina found at, 132 Kilmalcolm, pariah o^ vii Renfrew, 56 — village, 58, 69 Kilmalie, parish of, xiv. Invemeaa, 1 1 7 Kilmaluag, district of; xiv. Invemea, 240 — bay, i5. Kilmaluag, suppressed parish of; vii Ar- gyle, 223 Kilmany, parish of, ix. Fife, 532— hill, 533 —village, i6. 542— property (d, 550 Kilmardinny loch and groundis, viii Dun- barton, 37 — house, 49 KiUnaria church, ruins of, vii Aigyle, 147 Kilmarie, ruins of chapel at, xiv. Inver- ness, 305 Kilmarnock, parish and town of, v. Ayr, 535— bum, 536^ollieriea, 587— and Troon railway, 554, 683 Kilmaron house, ix. Fife, 8 Kilmaronock, pariah o^ viii. Dunbarton, 211 Kilmartin, pariah of, vii. Argyle, 547— castle, ruins of, 559— house, 561— vil- lage, i6. GENERAL INDEX. Ixxxi Kilmaun, parish of; v. A}t, 769— water and town, ib. Kilmelford, annexed parish of, vii Ar- gyle,61 Kilmeny, annexed parish of, vii Argyle, 668 Kilmichael water, vii. Aigyle, 633 Rilmichael chapel, ruins of, v. Bute, 103 — plantations at, 16 Kilmilian, burial place at, vii. Argyle, 25 Kilminuing, renmins at, ix. Fife, 966 Kilminster bum, xv. Caithness, 123— moss, 54, 119, ]26~Ioch, 123 Kilmonivaig, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 503 Kiimorack, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 360 —felU 0^361, 489 Kilmore house, xiv. Inverness, 43— burial place at, 45— church at, 320 Kilmore,annexed pariah of, vii. Argyle, 339 Kilmore and Kilbride, united parishes of, vii. Aigyle, 522 Kilmorich, annexed parish of, vii. Aigyle, 701 ' Kilmorie, ruins of churches at, \iL Aigyle, 45, 262, 263, 685— house, 676, 686 Kilmorie, parish of, v. Bute, 40 — ruins of chapel of, 103— castle, 104 Kilmorie, chapel at, iv. Wigton, 111 Kilmote, plantations at, xv. Sutherland, 196 Kilmster, battle at, xv. Caithness, 115 Kilmuir, or Duirinish, parish o^ xiv. Inverness, 322 Kilmuir, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 237— district of, 240 Kilmuir Easter, parish of, xiv. Ross, 801 Kilmuir Wester and Suddy, united pa- rishes of, xiv. Ross, 57 Kilmun, annexed parish of, vii. Aigyle, I 567— Wllageof, 607 Kihnux house, ix. Fife, 268 Kilneuar, ruins of chapel at, vii. Aigyle, 685 Kilninian and Kilmore, united parishes ! of; vii Argyle, 339 ! Kilninian, quoad Mcra parish of, vii. Ar- gyle, 342 Kilninver and Kilmelford, united parishes of, vii Argyle, 61 Kilnnide house, vii. Renfrew, 198 Kilpatrick bay, v. Bute, 41 Kilpatrick hills, vi. Lanark, 105v viii. Dunbarton, 16, 36 Kilpatrick, New or East, parish of; viiL Dunbarton, 36 — Old, parish of, 15— village, lA. 23, 29 Kilpumie hill, xi. Forfar, 558, 560 Kilravock castle, xiv. Inverness, 452 Kilrcmonth, name of, ix. Fife, 450 Kilrennv, parish of, ix. Fife, 970— village, 975, 977, 980 Kilrule, ancient name of St Andrews, ix. Fife, 450 Kilruskin, spring at, v. Ayr, 246' VOL. XV. Kilry hiU and valley, xi. Forfiur, 421, 424 — bum, 425 Kil-St-Ninian, burial place at, xi. Inver* ness, 46 Kilspindie, parish of, x. Perth, 1162— bum, 1163— village, 1166 Kilspindy fort, ruins of, ii. Haddington, 252 Kilstay, ruins of chapel at, iv. Wigton, 199 Kilsyth, parish of; nii. Stirling, 138— town, 141, 158— baUle, 148 Kiltarlity, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 483— braes, 41 Kilteam, parish o^ xiv. Ross, 313 Kiltongue coal, the, vi. Lanark, 243 Kilvarie church, mins of, vii. Arayle, 517 Kilviceuen, annexed parikh of, viu Aigyle, 296— church, 349 Kilwinning, parish of, v. Ayr, 811 — town of, 8 1 2, 829— monastery, 8 1 6— masonic lodge, 823, 1 Edinburgh, 283 Kimblethmont quarries, xi. For&r, 540 Kimmerghame, marl pits at, ii. Berwick, 267— house, 270 Kinaldie, trees at, ix. Fife, 306 Kinardy tower, ruins of, xiii. Banff, 383 —house, 385 Kinbattoch, ruins of church at, xii. Aber- deen, 417 Kinbeache loch, xiv. Ross, 41 —property, 48 Kinbean hill, xiii. Banff, 295 Kinbroom house, xii. Aberdeen, 331 Kinbuck, village of, x. Perth, 1042 Kincaid printfield, viii. Stirling, 240,248, 255 — house, 244 Kincaimey house, x. Perth, 676 Kincaldmm hill, xi. Forfar, 207, 235— chapel at, 216 Kincaple, village of, ix. Fife, 481 Kincitfdine house, xiL Aberdeen, 833 — village, 834, 836 Kincardine 0*Niel, parish of, xii. Aber- deen, 831 Kincardine, annexed parish of, xiii. Elgin, 92— church, 94 Kincardine castle, ruins o^ xi. Kincardine, 79, 83— cross, 116— plantations, 69, 78 — observations on county of, 360 Kincardine castle, ruins of, x. Perth, 298 —ferry, 867— glen, 298— moss, and its improvements, 1245, 1268— town, 868 Kincardine in Monteith, parish of, x. Perth, 1243 Kincardine, parish of, xiv. Ross, 403 Kinclaven, parish of, x. Perth, 1129 — castle, t6. 1131 Kincorth house, xiii. Elgin, 223 Kincraig hill, ix. Fife, 316, 319— head- land, 317 Kindace, Druidical remains at, xiv. Ross, 305— house, 306 Kindallachan, village of, x. Perth, 996 / Ixxxii GENERAL INDEX* Kindar loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 244, 245 Kindy burn, xii. Aberdeen, 431 Kineddars house, ix. Fife, 799 Kineder, suppressed parish of, xiiL Elfipn, 145 — castle, ruins of, 151 Kinellan loch, xiv. Ross, 236 Kineilar, pariah of, xii. Aberdeen, 114 Kinfauns, parish of, x. Perth, 1205 — —castle, 1206, 1211, 1212, 1213, 1215 King crosM, v. Bute, 20 King pool, the, iv. Dumfries, 430 King of the Moors farm, viii. Clackman- nan, 47 King of the wood tree, iii. Roxburgh, 5 Kingarth, parish of, v. Bute, 82 Kingcase, minerals at, v. Ayr, 171 — hos- pital, 173 Kingcauaie wood, xi. Kincardine, 190 — — house, 191 — improvomentfl at, 192 King CoiPs tomb, v. Ayr, 751 King Edward, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 274--bum, 275— castle, ruins o^ 274, 277 Kingenny, quarry at, xi. Forfar, 540 — chapel, ruins of, 542 Kingerlocli, district of, vii. Arg}'le, 225 Kingholm, the, iv. Dumfries, 11 Kinghom, parish oC ix. Fife, 800 — bay, t6.— ness and harbour, 801 — loch, 802 — town, lA. 804,810,813 King James' hospital, x. Perth, 67, 126 Kinglas glen, vii. Argj'le, 472 — water, 478 Kinglassie, parish of, ix. Fife, 194 — vil- lage, 1 95, 201 — agricultural .issociation, 201 King Malcolm's stone, xi. Forfar, 344 Kingoldrum, parish of, xi. Foriar, (II 1 — village, 612 Kingoody hill, xii. AlM»rdcon, 621, x. Perth, 406, 407 — qusirrie:*, 41.5 — vil- lage and harbour, 410, 418 Kingiibams, parish of, ix. Fife, 89 — cas- tle, ih village, 90, 93, 98 Kingsbeck burn, vL Lanark, 343 Kingsburgh house, xiv. Inverness, 262 King's cairn, the, xiii. Banff, 254 King's cairn, Crail, ix. Fife, 941 King's castle, Kirkwall, xv. ( )rkney, 4 King's causeway, Tiiin, xiv. Ross, 28 J) King's cave, Cumbrae, v. Ayr, 270 King's cave, Drumidoon, v. Bute, 55 King's cavil quarr>', ii. Lanark, 179 King's college, Al>erdeen, xii. Abcrdt»en, 1139 King's cove, Arran, v. Bute, 20, U King's cross, Dundee, xi. Forfar, 16 King's cross, Pitalpie, xi. Forfar, 580 Kingsdale house, ix. Fife, 379 Kingseat, tradition regarding, xii. Aber- deen, 1029 King's gate, the, ix. Fife, 809 King's haugh, the, x. IVrth, 1 174 King's haugb, the, xiii. Banff, 1«)6 Kingshaw limcworks, vi. Lanark, 569 King's head hill, xiv. Ro.s», 305 Kingsidc, coins foimd at, iii. Peebles 147 King's Inch, Channelkirk, ii. Berwick, 2^0 King's Inch, Fala, i. Edinburgh, 538 King's Inch, Renfrew, vii. Renfrew, 5, 1*2 King's isle, Ijaggan, xiv. Invemcas, 423 King's Kettle, parish of, ix. Fife, 102 King's kitchen cave, v. Bute, 56 King's knot, Stirling, viii Stirling, 406 King's law, geological appearances at, iu Haddington, 284 King's law of Carluke, \i. Lanark, 565 King's meadow park, Clackmannan, viii. Clackmannan, 126 King's meadow, Renfrew, >ii. Renfrew, 12 King's Meadows house, iii. Pecbleii, 9 King's mills dam, xir. Inverness, 10 King's mount, Arran, v. Bute, 20 King's muir, histor}' of, ix. Fife, 362 King's park, Edinbui^h,l Edinburgh, 654 King's park, Fordoun, xi. Kincardine, 79, 84 King's park, Stirling, viiL Stirling, 304, 391, 397, 406 King's path and cave, xiv. Ross, 24 King's seat hill, viiL Clackmannan, 77, 126 King's seat, Oathlaw, xi. Forfar, 294 King's seat, Eddlestone, iii. Peebles, 14 8 King's seat hill, x. Perth, 219, 1 1 1 1 Ring's son's know, nios8,&c. vi. Lanark, 1 1 King's son's rock, tradition r^jarding, xir. RosH, 24 King's stable, morass called, v. Ayr, 779 King's steps, Coylton, v. Ayr, 656 King's steps, xiii. Nairn, 2 King's stone, xi. Kincardine, 86 Kingston hill, ii. Haddington, 333— vil- lage, 216 Kingston, village of, xiii. Elgin, 52, 53 KingMtown house, i. Edinburgh, 596 King's well, Abernyte, x. Perth, 222 King's well, Alloa, viii. Clackmannan, 6 King's well, Newtyle, xi. Forfar, 559 King's well, Sorn, v. Ayr, 136 King's well inn, v. Ayr, 778 King's wud end, the, ix. Fife, 801, 805 Kingussie, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 6.'<— village, 76, 77, 78 King William's dock, Dundee, xi. Forfar, 2 Kinharvev house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 244, 251 Kininvie, lead ore at, xiii. Banff, 104 Kink hill, iii. Roxburgh, '255 Kinkell, annexed parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 655, 743 Kinkell cave, ix. Fife, 451 Kinkell brae, xi. Kmcardine, 68 Kinkell bridge, x. Perth, 341 Kinkell, rocks at, viii. Stirling, 240 Kin loch, village of, ix Fife, 30 Kinl«»ch, annexed parish of, x. Perth, 1001— house, 235 Kinloch water, xv. Sutherland, 170 KinlochluioliArt, district of, xiv. Ross, 244 3 GENERAL INDEX. Ixxxiii Kinlochmoidart, (llBtrict o^ vii. Argyle, > 125 i Kinloss, parish of, xiii. Elgin, 202 — ^burn, 204— abbey, 206, xii. Aberdeen, 902, xiv. Inverness, 15 Kinmont house, iv. Dumfries, 31, 250 Kinmuck, ancient camp at, xii. Aberdeen, 744 Kinnaber fishery, xi. Kincardine, 289 Kinnaird, annexed parish of, xi. Forfar, 109— castle, 110 Kinnaird, parish of^ x. Perth, 228 — castle, ruins of, {'6. — house, 1008 Kinnaird, property of, viii. Stirling, 340, 344 — coal, 345— park and house, 347, 302 Kinnaird ^s head, light on, xii. Aberdeen, 249, 703 Kinnear, property of, ix. Fife, 549— quar- ry, 536 Kinneddcr castle, ruins of, xiii. Elgin, 151 Kinneff, parish of, xi. Kincardine, 309 — castle, ruins of, ib. 314 Kinneil, Roman wall at, ii. Linlithgow, 128— corse, 147— house, 130, 131 — suppressed parish of, 120 Kinnclhead tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 127 Kinneil water, iv. Dumfries, 40, 124, 125, 151, 378 Kinneil parish of, xi. Forfar, 393 Kinneil, Druidical remains at, x. Perth, 1088— house, 1086 Kinncirs mill, xi. Forfiir, 396, 408 Kinnermony, daugh of, xiii. Banff, 1 12 Kinncttas, annexed parish of, xiv. Koas, Kinnettles, parish of, xi. Forfiir, 206 — hill, 207 Kinninmouth quarry, ix. Fife, 518 Kinoir, ancient parish o^ xii. Aberdeen, 1036 Kinnordy loch and moss, xi. Forfiir, 162, 165, 613— house, &c. 171, 178 Kinnouli, parish of, x. Perth, 933 — castle, ruins of, 937— hill, 2, 935, 1206, xi. Forfar, 393 Kinram house and plantations, xiv. Inver- ness, 84, 85, 89 Kinrive quarries, xiv. Ross, 308 Kinross, parish of, ix. Kinross, 1— town, ih. 15, 19— house, 8, 16 Kinross Green inn, ix. Kinross, 27 Kinroi^shire, observations on, ix. Kiiux>S8, 70— savings bank, 25 Kinshaw limeworks, vi. Ijjinark, 569 Kintail, parish of, xiv. lioss, 170 Kin tail, ancient parish of,xv. Sutherland, 164 Kintcssp hill, i. Edinburgh, 49, ii. Linlithgow, 36 — house, 49 — colliery, 37, 52 Kipp of Haughhead, the, iii. Roxburgh, 226 Kippen, parish of, viii. Stirling, 264 — markets, 272— moor, 265 — village, 264, 270 KippendaWc house, x. Perth, 1041 Kipperminshock, plantations at, viii. Dun* barton, 91 Kippet hills, xii. Aberdeen, 591 Kippilaw house, iii. Roxburgh, 39 Kirbister loch, xv, Orkney, 16 — point, 172 Kirdals, plantations at, xiii. Elgin, 67 Kirk bum of Broughton, iii. Peebles, 79 Kirk bum of Kailzie, iii. Peebles, 39 Kirk bum of Meams, vii. Renfrew, 521 Kirk hope, iii Roxburgh, 191 Kirk loch, Lochmaben, iv. Dumfries, 379 Kirk park of Mordington, il Berwick, 346 Kirk o'Field, site of, I Edinburgh, 628 Kirk of llow, ruins of, xv. Orknev, 125 Kirk of the Grove, the, x. Perth, *265 Kirk o'Muir,the, viii. Stirling, 323 Kirk of Shotts collieries, vi. Lanark, 625 Kirkag water, xv. Sutherland, 114, 213 Kirkandrews church, ruins of, iv. Kirk* eudbright, 54 — village, 55 Kirkapol bay, vii. Argyle, 197 Kirkbean, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 234— village, 242 Kirkbride, Kirkcolm, chapel at, iv. Wig- ton, 1 1 1 Kirkbride, Kirkmaiden, mins of chapel at, iv. Wigton, 199 Kirkbride, Kirkmichael, improvements at, v. Ayr, 502 Kirkbride, Maybole, ruins of church of, v. Ayr, 364 Kirkbuddo, district of, xi. Forfar, 469— house, 470 Kirkbum, Cambuslang, marble quarries, &c. vlLimark, 419, 423 Kirkbum, Crawfordjohn, lead mines at, vL Lanark, 500 Kirkcaldy, parish of, ix. Fife, 740— town, 741 — Agricultural Association, 756— Chamber of Commerce, 158 Kirkcalla, old buriiil ground of, iv. Wig- ton, 232 Kirkclauch house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 382 Kirkcolm, parish of, iv. Wigton, 102 Kirkconnel, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 3U« Ixxxiv GElfBBAL IKDEX. — village, 316— burial ground, 279— site of house, 280 Kirkconnell house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 225 Kirkconhack, ruins of church of, iv. Kirk- cudbright, 170 Kirk craig of Kinghorn, ix. Fife, 801 Kirkcudbright, stewartry of, iv. Kirkcud- bright, 387— iwrish, 1— town, 12, 20, 30 — castle, ruins and history of, 11, 20 Kirkcudbright Innertig, ancient parish of^ V. Ayr, 415 Kirkdalc house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 334 — old chapel and parish of, 313 Kirkden, parish of, xi. Forfiu*, 383 Kirk Dominae, Barr, ruins of, v. Ayr, 409 Kirkdrain, ruins of chapel at, iv. Wigton, 199 Kirkebost isle, xiv. Inverness, 163 Kirkfield bank, village of, vi. Lanark, 4, 38 Kirkforthar house, ix. Fife, 668 Kirkgunzeon, parish of,iv. Kirkcudbright, 218— loch, 246 Kirkhall of Ardroasan, v. Ayr, 194 Kirkheuch of St Andrews, ix. Fife, 468 Kirkhill, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 459 Kirkhill of Avondale, the, vi. Lanark, 301 Kirkhill of Cambuslang, village of, vi. La- nark, 420, 431 Kirkhill castle, Colmonell, ruins of, t. Ayr, 529 Kirkhill of Dryfesdale, iv. Dumfries, 466 Kirkhill of Kinnettles, xi. Forfer, 216 Kirkhill house, Meigle, x. Perth, 235 Kirkhill of Neilston, well at, vii. Renfrew, 315 Kirkhill of Nigg, property of, xi. Kincar- dine, 205 Kirkhill, Pcnnicuik, village of, i. Edin- burgh, 45 Kirkhill of St Andrews, ix. Fife, 468 Kirkhill of Stomoway, xiv. Ross, 137 Kirkhill of Tillicoultry, viii. Clackman- nan, ()G Kirkhill house, Uphall, ii. Linb'thgow, 87 Kirkholm isle, xv. Shetland, 100, 109 Kirkhoble, ruins of chapel at, iv. Wigton, 176 Kirkhope, ruins of chapel at, iii. Selkirk, 68 Kirkinner, parish of, iv. M'igton, 9 Kirkintilloch, parinh of, viii. Dun barton, 168— castle, ruins of, 1 H6— town, 168, 185, 200 — railway, vi. Lanark, 411 Kirkland moat, iv. Dumfries, 11 Kirkland blciichfield, viii. Dun barton, 225 Kirkland K])inning mills, ix. Fife, 394, 397 —village, 398, 400 Kirkland hill, ruins of chapel at, iii. Peebles, 101 KirklandH mineral spring, ix. Fife, 518— house, 799 Kirklandu house, iii. Roxburgh, 245 Kirklands of Cavers, the, iii. Roxburgh, 429 ' Kirkleish, ruins of chapel at, iv. Wigton^ 199 Kirklic green, v. Ayr, 578 Kirkliston, parish of^ I Edinbuigh, 1S3 — village, 139 Kirkmabreck, pariah of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 311 Kirkmahoe, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 53 Kirkmadrine, suppressed parish of, iv. Wigton, 22, 27— church, ruins of, 164 Kirkmaiden, parish of, iv. Wigton, 199 Kirkmay, coal at, ix. Fife, 946 — house, 952 Kirkmichael, parish of, v. Ayr, 492— house, 500— loch, 493— village, 504 Kirkmichael, parish of, xiii. Ba^, 296 Kirkmichael, parish (^, iv. Dumfries, 67 —fell, 68— house, 61 Kirkmichael, ruins of chapel at, viiL Dun- barton, 75 Kirkmichael, parish of, x. Perth, 785 Kirkmichael and Cullicudden, united pa- rishes of, xiv. Ross, 37 Kirkmien hill, v. Ayr, 278 Kirkmuirhill, village of, vi. Lanark, 38 Kirkness head, xv. Shetland, 100, 103 Kirknewton, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 433 —village, 434, 445 Kirkney, ruins of chapel at, xiii. Banff, 97 Kirknow, vilUige of, vi. Lanark, 621 Kirkoswald, pariah of, v. Ayr, 781— vil- lage, 783 Kirkowan, parish of, iv. Wigton, 196 Kirk Patrick muir, iv. Kirkcudbright, 256 Kirkpatrick Durham, parish of, iv. Kirk- cudbright, 256— village, 260 Kirkpatrick Fleming, parisli of, iv. Dum- fries, 274 Kirkpatrick Irongray, parish of, iv. Kirk- cudbright, 265 Kirkpatrick Juxta, parish of, iv. Dumfries^ 124 Kirk Pottie, ruins of, x. Perth, 810 Kirkrow plantations, iii. Roxburgh, 194 Kirkside house, St Cvrus, xi. Kincardine, 283 Kirkstyle of Ruthwell, the, iv. Dumfries, 228 Kirkton limeworks, Bathgate, ii. Linlith- gow, 153 Kirkton hill, Dalzell, cairn on, vL Lanark, 485 Kirkton hill of Kingoldrum, xi Forfar, 612— village, 617 Kirkton hill of Marjkirk, xi. Kiucanline, 300— house, 302 Kirkton bum, Neilston, vii. Renfrew, 316 Kirkton glen of Campaie, viii. Stirling, 235 —water, 236 Kirkton water and cascade, vii. Aigyle, 65 Kirkton of Airlie village, xi. Forfar, 671 — remains at, 679 Kirkton of Arbirlot village, xi. Forfar, 334 Kirkton of Auchterlcss village, xii. Aber^ deen, 888 GENSRAL INDBX. Ixxxv Kirkton of Avoch village, xiv. Ron, 392 Kirkton of Balmerino village, ix. Fife, 578 Kirkton of Banchory village, xi Kincai^ dine, 355 Kirkton of Burntisland village, ix. Fife, 404, 415 — trains of chapel at, 414 Kirkton of Carluke property, vL Lanark, 578 Kirkton of Cumbrae, v. Bute, 79 Kirkton of Dunnichen village, xi. Forfiu', 152 Kirkton of Ewes village, iv. DumfHes, 440 Kirkton of Fetteresso village, xi. Kincar- dine, 262 Kirkton of Fordoun village, xi. Kincar- dine, 103 Kirkton of Gargunneck village, viii. Stir- ling, 56 Kirkton of Glenelg village, xiv. Inverness, 139 Kirkton of Guthrie village, xL Forfar, 472 Kirkton of Hobkirk quarry, iii. Roxbuigh, 210 Kirkton of Kilbride village, v. Ayr, 248, 264 Kirkton of Kinnettles village, xL Forfor, 225~spring at, 208 Kirkton of Laigo village, ix. Fife, 441 Kirkton of Lawrencekirk village, xL Kin- cardine, 129 Kirkton of Liff village, xi. For&r, 582, 586 Kirkton of Lintrathen village, xL For&r, 640 Kirkton of Neilston village, vii Renfrew, 307 Kirkton of Nevrtyle, remains at, xi. For- far, 559— Tillage, 562 Kirkton of Row village, viii. Dunbarton, 76 Kirkton of St Cyrus village, xi Kincar- dine, 285, 292 Kirkton of St Ninians village, viii Stilling, 304 Kirkton of Slamanan village, viii Stirling, 278 Kirkton of Stonykirk village, iv. Wigton, 164 Kirkton of Tullich village, xii. Aberdeen, 779, 781 Kirktonholm house, vi. Ijanark, 892 Kirktown, parish of, iii. Roxburgh, 377 Kirktownmalns, ruins of tower at, iv. Dura- fries, 453 Kirkurd, parish of, iii. Peebles, 127 Kirkville house, xii Aberdeen, 1098 Kirkwall, town of, xv. Orkney, 1, 215 — bay, 1 Kirkwall and St Ola, united parishes of, XV. Orkney, 1 Kirkwood hill, iv. Dumfries, 207 Kirk Yetholm, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 159, 165, 173— gypsies of, 165 Kirkyetton hiU, i Edinburgh, 108, 324 Kiim^U valley, x. Perth, 1078 Kimevam, remains at, iv. Wigton, 232 Kirouchtree house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 118, 134 Kirriemuir, parish of, xi For&r, 158 — hill, 159— town, 183 Kirtle water, iv. Dumfries, 256, 263, 274, 276 Kirktomy valley, xv. Sutherland, 67— ^ bay, 68 — aird, ib. Kiscadale, remains at, v. Bute, 23 Kishom, district of, xiv. Roes, 99— cop- per mine at, 100 Kismul castle, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 204, 207 Kisthill well, ii Haddington, 225 Kist vaen, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 1 30 Kitchen linn bum, vi Lanark, 606 Kittimuir, soil at, vi Lanark, 257 Kittock water, vi Lanark, 598, 879 Kittockside village, vi. Lanark, 877, 893, 898 Kittyfristy well, viii StirUng, 147 Kittymure well, vi. Lanark, 471 Kitty's cave, xiii Banff, 179 Klett isle, xv. Sutherland, 106 Klibreck, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 214 Knaick water, x. Perth, 312, 315 Knap o' Castle, ruins of^ xi For&r, 325 Knap of Cothill tumulus, xi Forfiur, 826 Knapdale, North, parish of, vii. Aigyle, 631 Knapdale, South, parish of, vii. Aigyle, 257 Kneeas head, xiv. Roas, 117, 118 Knightland moss and bum, xii Aberdeen, 298 Knightsridge hill, ii. Linlithgow, 115 Knightswood., propertv of, viii. Dunbarton, 46 Knipe hill, v. Ayr, 509, 510 Knock property and house, v. Ayr, 799 Knock castle, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 318 Knock water, &c. x. Perth, 263, 812 Knock head, xiii. Banff, 221 Knock of Alves hill, xiii Elgin, 86, 102 Knock of Bathgate, the, ii. Linlithgow, 150 Knock of Brae Moray hill, xiii Elgin, 1 79 Knock of Crieff hill, x. Perth, 489 Knock of Fordoun hill, xi Kincardine, 69 Knock of Fordvce hill, xiii. Banff, 179 Knock of Formal hill, xi. For&r, 636 Knock of Grange, xiii Banff, 213 Knock of Ordiquhill hiU, xui Banff, 79, 80 Knock of Renfrew, the, vii. Renfrew, 2^ 13,17 Knockando, parish of^ xiii Elgin, 60— bum, 63, 66— house, &c 60, 67, 70 Knockankclly, plantations at, v. Bute, 16 Knockantsabhal hill, xiv. Ross, 434 Knockbain, parish of, xiv. Roes, 57 — hill, 384 Knockbeg, Pictiih remains on, xii Aber- deen, 1056 Ixxxvi QENKRAL INDEX. Knockbrax, remains found at,iv. Wigton, 177 K nockbreck water, viL Argyle, 536 Knockbumicy limestone at, v. Ayr, 512 Knock Craggy, xv. Sutherland, 171 Knockcraig hill, iv. DumfHes, 67 Knockdavie castle, ruins of, ix. Fife, 414 Knockdaw castle, ruins o^ v. Ayr, 529 Knockderry, ruins of fort at, viii. Dunbar- ton, 110,116 Knockdolian castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 529 — house, ib. — hill, 532 Knockdon hill, v. Ayr, 475 ^ead ore at, 352 Knock Durroch, Roman camp at, x. Perth, 272 Knock Elderaboll hill, xv. Sutherland, 189 Knockenbaird hill, xii. Aberdeen, 748 Knock Farril hill and vitrified fort, xiv. Ross, 245 Knockfin hill, xv. Sutherland, 135— school at, 501 Knockgeoi^gan hill, v. Ayr, 191 — camp on, 198 Knockgerran, barony of, v. Ayr, 381 Knockglass, district of, xv. Caithness, 79 Knockhall castle, ruins of, xil Aberdeen, (}99 Knockhall, market at, xv. Orkney, 189 Knockice, Roman camps on, xii. Aber- deen, 1057— battle of, 1058 Knockinglaw hill, xii. Aberdeen, 677 KnockinhHglish hill, \iii. Stirling, 106 Knockinnan castle, ruins of, xv. Caith- ness, 91 Knockinstone, remains at, xi. Kincardine, 336 Knockimy hill, xiv. Ross, 404 Knocklagan hill, xiv. Ross, 435 Knockmade, barony of, \ii. Renfrew, 308 Knock-ma-har hill, x. Perth, 898 Knockman loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 370 Knockmarloch limeworks, v. Ayr, 606 Knockmcad hill, v Ayr, 289 Knockmoy hill, vii. Argyle, 413 Knockniurran ford, v. Ayr, 656 Knock-nn-barcibhich hill, xv. Caithness, 13, 15 Knock-na-gillan, tnulition regarding, xiii. Nairn, 1 , 9 Knocknalliiig house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 112 Knocknavie hill, xiv. Ross, 27 1 KnockiioH-ton hill, vi. Lanark, 609 Knock'nreachy, tumulus called, xv. Su- therland, 147 Knockphail hill, xiv. Inverness, 285 K nockshogtjle colliery, v. Ayr, 651 — vil- Ijigc, 662 Knockside hill, v. Ayr, 787 Knocksleitill hill, xv. Caitlmess, 13 Knocksting loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 370 Knock Urray castle, ruins of, xv. Caith- ness, 13 Knockvill, remains at, iv. Wi^n, 233 Knockwood, fort at, iv. Dumfines, 69 Knodyard, district of, xiv. Invemets, 129, 504 Knotty holm, the, iv. Dumfries, 483 Knowe of Skae head, xv. Orkney, 116 Knowes of Myrtis, the, xv. Orkney, 140 Knowhead, improvements at, viii. Stirling, 126, forge at, 130 Knows spinning mills, v. AyT, 591 Knowsouth property and house, iii. Rox- burgh, 286 Knox house, xi. Kincardine, 27 Knox's kirk, niins of, ii. Haddington, 194 KolUeben hill, xv. Sutherland, 189 Koltag hill, XV. Caithness, 1 6 Kor stone, ihe, x. Perth, 201 Kvle castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 326 — dia- 'trictof, 178,310,475,666 Kyle of Assvnt, xv. Sutherland, 1 05 Kyles of Bute, v. Bute, 95, 110 Kyle of Durness, xv. Sutherland, 83, 84, 86 Kyle of Kincardine, xiv. Rom, 404 Kyle of Laxford, xv. Sutherland, 119 Kyle of Sutherland, xiv. Ross, 437, xt. Sutherland, 215 Kyle of Tongue, xv. Sutherland, 164, 166, 168 Kyle Akin, xiv. Inverness, 134, 302, Ross, 170, 178, 184— village, 807 Kyle Rhea, xiv. Inverness, 134, 317, Ross, 178, 181, 182, 184— tumulus at, Inverness, 134 Kvleswell, V. Avr,8l9 Kyles hill, ii. Berwick, 231 Kvlcside, chapel at, xv. Sutherkind, 1 1 5 Kyle Sku, xv. Sutherland, 119, 121 Kylostrome, Danish remains at, xv. Su- 'therland, 127 Kylochy, property of, xiv. Inverness, 390 Kymah burn, xiii. Banff, 126 Kypc water, vi. Lanark, 31, 302, 468, 470 Kype's rigg hill, vi. Lanark, 301 La l)lar beine, battle of, xiv. Inverness, 508 Ljiekerstone, barrow called, ix. Fife, 106 Lacksta bum, xiv. Inverness, 156 Lacock, village of, x. Perth, 249, 259 Lae hills, iii. Roxburgh, 52 Ladie well, Stirling, >iiL Stirling, 406, 407 Lady, parish of, xv. Orkney, 1 33 Lady bay, iv. Wigton, 104, 107 Lady bum, ix. Fife, 1» 2 Ladv chapel of Kirkbum, ruins of, vi. Lanark, 430 Lady glen of Dailly, v. Ayr, 384 Lady kirk of Canisbay, xv. Caithness, 25 Lady well of Airth, viii. Stirling, 281 Ladv well of Balmerino, ix. Fife, 580 Ltulv well of Falkland, ix. Fife, 938 Lady well of Olenisla, xi. Forfar, 422 Lady well of Grange, xiii. Banff, 214 QENERAL INDEX. Ixxxvii l-"/ly of Loretto, chapel of, i. Edinburgh, Lady Alva's web, viii. Stirling, 178 Lady Banks' well, xi. Kincardine, 298 Lady Corse, remains at, v. Ayr, 360 I^dy Craigh hill, iv. Wigton, 124 Lady ha colliery, v. Ayr, 813 Ladyhill of Elgin, ruins on, xiii. Elgin, 8 Lady kirk, parish of, ii. Berwick, 181— house, 183 Ladykirk in Kyle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 173 Ladyland house, v. Ayr, 697, 707, 708— property, 702, 714— remains found at, 703 Ladyloan, district of, xi. Forfar, 489, 490 — church, 515 Ladysford house, xii. Aberdeen, 723 lady's scaup, the, ii. Linlithgow, 148 I-Aily's seat, xiv. Ross, 435 Lady's well, Aboyne, xiL Aberdeen, 1060 Lady's well, Alloa, viii. Clackmannan, 6 Lady's well, Avoch, xiv. Ross, 384, 390 Lady's well, Bearton, 173 Leochel bum, xii Abcnleen, 485, 486, 491, 1102, 1105— hill, 485 Leochel and Cushnie, united parishes of, xii Aberdeen, 1102 - Leod castle, xiv. Roen, 255 Leod mount, xv. Sutherland, 119 Leogh hamlet, xv. Shetland, 95 Leothaid mount, xv. Sutherland, 119 Lepers' house, Glasgow, vi. Lanark, 112 Lerwick, parish of, xv. Shetland, 1 — town, 3, 145 Leslie, parish of, xii Aberdeen, 1019— house, ruins of, 1022 Leslie, parish of, ix. Fife, 1 1 1 — green, 115 —house, 112, 113, 116— village, 112, 113,116 Lesmahagow, parish of, vi Lanark, 30 Lesniore castle, ruins of, xii. Al>erdeen, 1016 m xc OENEBAL INDEX. Leamurdie, ruins of church at, xiii. Banff, 197— cottage, ih, 198— distillery, 198 Lcssendrum houDC, xii. Aberdeen, 304 Lew Helvel hill, xiv. Inverness, 323 J.«eaBudden or St Bowsclls, parish of, iii. Roxburgh, 104— place, ruins of^ 1 OS- village, 104, 110, ii. Berwick, 31 Leswalt, parish of, iv. Wigton, 123 Letham, village of, ix. Fife, 44 — hill, Druidical remains on, 239 Letham, granite at, xi. For&r, 145 — Hpinning-mill, 50 1 — nllagc, 151, 155 — hall, 154 I/etham house, ii. lladdingt— village, 158, 161 — bog, dniina^e of^ 165 Linton, parish of, iii. Roxburgh, 145— hill, ib. 146— loch, ib. 448, 449, 450— tower, ruins of, 161 — village, 153 Lintrathen, parish o^ xi. Forfar, 636 — loch, ib, Lintrose, cave at, xi. ForfEU*, 643 — house, 644 Linwood, village of, vii. Renfrew, 371, 378— mills, 377 Lion, rock called the, v. Bute, 71 Lions" den, the, viii. Stirling, 404 Lipreck bum, ii. Bexwick, 56 Lismore isle, vii. Argyle, 225 Lismore and Appin, unitcil parishes of, vii. Argjle, 223 Listening stone, the, xiv. Inverness, 449 Liston, mins of tower of, i. Edinburgh, 138 Listonshields, farm of, i. Edinburgh, 434 ythean-a-chaffhill, x. Perth, 345 Lithtillum loch, H. Berwick, 200 Litic, marl bed at, xiii. Nairn, 8 Little Ferry, the, xv. Sutherland, 1, 2, 24, 41, 215— battle at, 33 Little Ileugh, the, iii. Roxburgh, 379 Little Loch, Glenshiel, xiv. Ross, 185 Little Loch, Meams, viL Renfrew, 516 Little Strath of Lochbroom, xiv. Ross, 74 Little Brechin, village of, xi. Forfar, 1 34 Little Broom bum and loch, xiv. Ross, 74 Little Colonsav isle, vii. Ai^le, 340, 345, 361 Little Cumbrae isle, v. Bute, 69, Ayr, 243, 244, 269— lighthouse, 270 Little Dalton, vale of, iv. Dumfries, 371 Littledean tower, ruins of, iii. Roxbui^h, 119 Little Dumfin mills, viii. Dunbarton, 161 Little Dunkeld, parish of, x. Perth, 1005 Little France, village of, i. Edinburgh, 7 Littleflill, improvements of, vi. Lanark, 83r LittleTicney, tumulus at, x. Perth, 356 Little Mill, Arran, school at, v. Bute, 67 Little Mill distillcrv, &c. viii. Dunbarton» 29 Littlefnilstick, pool called, xiv. Ross, 383 Little ^ebbock rock, v. Ayr, 462 Little Reattie, improvements at, xiii. Banff, 235 XCll GENEBAL INDEX. Little Ross isle and lighthouse, iv. Kirk- . ' cudbright, 31, 48 Little Rysay isle, xv. Orkney, 78 Little Sourby church, ruins of, ir. Wigton, 27 Little Thaim rock, ii. Berwick, 215 Littlewood park house, xii. Aberdeen, 450 Liver water, viL Argyle, 478 Livet water, xiii. Banff, 124,125— linn,l 25 Livingston, parish of^ ii. Linlithgow, 115 peel and house, 117— village, 119 Livingstones Ford, ii. Haddington, 209 Livingstone, property of^ viii. Stirling, 138 Lliabh Goail hill, vii. Argyle, 257 Loanhead, village of, i. Edinburgh, 335 Loanhead hill, n. Lanark, 835 Loanhead bleachfield, vii, Renfrew, 1 02 Loanhead, Denny, village of, viii. Stirling, 132, 133 Loansbridge, mineral spring at, v. AyVf 212 Loch bay, xiv. Inverness, 323, 326 Loch burn of Linlithgow, ii Linlithgow, 1 7 Lochaber, district of, xiv. Invemessi, 1 17, 511 Loch-a-Bhcalich, xiv. Ross, 172 Loch-a-Bhraoin, xiv. Ross, 72 Lochachall, xiv. Ross, 74 Lochachilty, xiv. Ross, 236 — Druidical remains at, 237 Lochnacloich, xiv. Ross, 264 Lochadigo, xiv. Ross, 160 Lochaffric, xiv. Inverness, 363, 484, 490 Lochainort, see Loch Eynort Lochulsh, XV. Sutherland, 214 Lochalin, vii. Arg}ie, 16^ — quarries, 170 — harbour and village, 189, 190 Lochalsh, xiv. Ross, 107, 184 — parish of, 260 Lochaltanfcam, xv. Sutherland, 137 Lochalvie, xiv. Inverness, 83 Lochandow, vii. Argyle, 517 Lochandu, xiv. Inverness, 89 Lochandunty, xiv. Inverness, 380 Lochaneilean, xiii Elgin, 1 37, 1 38— castle, ruins of, 137, 139, 141 Lochan Falloch, x. Perth, 1096, 1097 Lochanganuh, xv. Sutherland, 1 37 Lochans, \illage of, iv. Wigton, 131, 153 Lochantuirck, x. Perth, 786 Lochanuaine, xii. Aberdeen, 1071 Lochor moss, iv. Dumfries, 3, 4, 17, 30, 40, 218, 220, 442, 568— water, 3, 29, 40,218,349,443 Lochar iMiter, vi. Lanark, 302 Locharicliny, xv. Sutherland, 1 37 ^ Locharkaig, xiv. Inverness, 118 — ilAssion of, 511 i Lochamizort, xiv. Inverness, 323 * Lochascaig, xv. Sutherland, 137 Loch Assynt, xv. Sutherland, 107 Lochavich, vii. Argyle, 373 Lochavon, xiii. liimtf, 297 Lochawe, vii. Argyle, 85, 372 Lochay glen, vii Argyle, 84 Lochay water, x, Perth, 455, 706, 1079, 1080— glen, 702, 1073 Lochbeannached, xv. Sutherland, 48 Loch Beauly, xiv. Inverness, 2, 8 liochbee, xiv. Inverness, 185 Lochbeinevean, xiv. Invemeaa, 363 Lochbeinnemhian, xiv. Invemesii, 484, 490 Lochbeg, xiv. Inverness, 298 Lochbhruach, xiii Elgin, 125 Lochboarlan, xiv. Ross, 43 Lochboisdale, xiv. InvemeflS, 183 195 - Lochborley, xv. Sutherland, 87 Loch Braeaidale, xiv. Invemees^ 296* 323 Loch Braden, v. Ayr, 334 Loch Brany, xi Forfiur, 436 Lochbroom, parish o^ xiv. Roas, 72— 4is- trict of, 74 Lochbrown, v. Ayr, 159, 766 Lochbrora, xv. Sutherhmd, 149, 150, 217 — remains at, 155 Lochbruiach, xiv. Inverness, 491 Lochbuie, xv. Sutherland, 1 7 Lochbuilg, xiii Banff, 298 Lochbunachton, xiv. Invemets, 516 Lochbuy bay, vii Argyle, 281^-caiUe, 287 — cave at, 279 — house, 289 Loch Cailm, xv. Caithness, 15 Lochcalva, xv. Sutherland, 120 Loch Caolisport, vii Argyle, 259 Lochcamabattao, xiv. Invemesi, 491 Lochcarron, parish of, xiv. Ross, 107^^' loch, ib. Lochcarroy, xiv. Inverness, 323, 326 Lochchamac, xiv. Ross, 264 Ix)chchaman, xiv. Inverness, 1 95 Lochchorrh, xiv. Ross, 420 Lochchroi^, xiv. Ross, 236 Lochclachan, xiv. Inverness, 515 Lochclachan, xiii. Nairn, 44 Lochcluonie, xiv. Ross, 182, 187 Ix>chcoinneag, xiv. Ross, 264 Lochcoire, xiv. Inverness, 515 Lochcoimafeam, xv. Sutherland, 68 Lochcoiruisg, xiv. Inverness, 296, 301 Lochconnell, iv. Wigton, 103 Lochcomamaugh, xv. Sutherland, 137 Lochcorr, xv. Sutherland, 217 Loch cote hills, ii. Linlithgow, 50 — bouse, 51— loch, 36 Loch Coulalt, xiii. Elgin, 62 Loch Coulter, viii Stirling, 307, 313 Loch Craggie, xv. Sutherland, 48, 169 Lochcraig hill, iv. Dumfries, 102, 104 Lochcraspul, xv. Sutherland, 87 Lochcuillie, xv. Sutherland, 137 Lochdnmf, xiv. Ross, 100 Lochden bay, vii Argvle, 281 Lochdews, xi. Kincardine, 245 Lochdhu, V. Bute, 99 Lochdhu, XV. Caithness, 123 Lochdinard, xv. Sutherland, 87 Lochdiru, xv. Sutherland, 169 Loch Dochart castle, ruins ot, x. Pertk^ 1088 OEKBRAL INDEX. XClll Loch Doon, v. Ayr, 308, 309, 333, 334— castle, ruins of, 337 Loch Domal, v. Ayr, 529 Lochdowal, xiv. Ross, 107 Lochdruidibc^, xiv. Inverness, 185 Lochduich, xiv. Ross, 170, 181, 182, 185 —ferry, Inveniess, 140 Lochduntelchaig, xiv. Inverness, 515 Lochdunvegan, xiv. Inverness, 323, 325 Lochduthick, xiv. Ross, 181 Locheck, vii. Argyle, 104, 571, 578 Lochee, village of, xL For&r, 40, 568, 578, 582 — church and quoad sacra parish, 568, 587 — quarries, 585 — schools, 588 Locheil, xiv. Inverness, 118 * Locheishart, xiv. Inverness, 317 Lochend, Coylton, v. Ayr, 650 Lochend, Dunfermline, ix. Fife, 829 Loehend, Edinburgh, i. Edinburgh, 619 Lochend, Kirkcudbright, iv. Kirkcud- bright, 246 Lochend, Kirkliston, battle at, i. Edin- burgh, 137 Lochend, Monkland, vi. Jhou0e, 501 Loch Ness, xiv. Inverness, 1, 3, 7, 37, SA, 51, 52, 53, 373 Lochnevis, xiv. Inverness, 129, 525 Lochnoir, xiii. Elgin, 196 Lochoich, xiv. Inverness, 504 Lochore, drainage of, ix. Fife, 447 — plan- tations on, 446 Lochoscar, vii. Arg}'le, 229 Lochouan, x. Perth, 726 Lochpark, xiii. Banff, 214 Loch Pata\ieg, xiv. Ross, 264 Loch Poltiel, xiv. Inverness, 323, 326 Loch Portree, xiv. Inverness, 218, 219 Lochranza bay, harbour, and chapel, v. Bute, 9, 33, 4 1 , 43— castle, ruins of, 20, 43,55 Lochrenny, moat at, iv. Kirkcudbright, 370 Loch Resart, xiv. Ross, 152 Lochridge, limestone, &.c. at, v. Ayr, 291, 729 Loch Roag, xiv. Ross, 151, 152, 155 Lochruthven, xiv. Inverness, 515 Lochrutton, parish of^ iv. Kirkcudbright, 286 Lochryan, iv. Wigton, 80, 81, 92, 95, 102, 118, 123— house, 83 Lochrynie, xv. Sutherland, 216 Lochs, parish of, xiv. Ross, 1 57— district of, 99 Lochscolpeg, Danish remains at, xiv. In- verness, 170 Loch Scye, xv. Caithness, 15 Loch Seaforth, xiv. Ross, 157, 159 Lochsheil, xiv. Ross, 182 Lochshell, xiv. Ross, 159 Lochshelliva, xiv. Inverness, 195 Lochshiel, xiv. Inverness, 525 Lochshin, xv. Sutherland, 58, 215 Lochshurery, xv. Caithness, 15 Lochsianta, xiv. Inverness, 245 Lochside, village of, xi. Kincardine, 285 Lochside house, vii. Renfrew, 76 Loch Skavaig, xiv. Inverness, 296 Loch Skene, iv. Dumfries, 107 Loch Skipport, xiv. InvemeHS, 182, 183^ 195 Loch Slam, xv. Sutherland, 169 Loch Sluppen, xiv. Inverness, 302 Loch Sleitill, xv. Caithness, 15 Loch Sligichan, xiv. Inverness, 218, 219 Loch Sloy, viii. Dunbarton, 234 Lochsmaddy, iv. Kirkcudbright, 192 Loch Snizort, xiv. Inverness, 237, 287,289 Loch Spey, xiv. Inverness, 421 Loch Spy nie, drainage of; xiii. Elgin, 29, 33 Loch Stac, XV. Sutherland, 120, 122, 217 Loch Strathy, xv. Sutherland, 68, 217 Loch Sunart xiv. Inverness, 526 Loch Swen, vii. .\rgyle, 632 Loch Tanna, v. Bute, 42 Loch Tay, x. Perth, 453, 454, 705, 1079 —isle of, 465 Lochteagus, vii. Argyle, 168— vitrified fort, 183 OBKESAL IKDEZ. XCV Loch Thom, v. Ayr, 804 Loch Tolla, vii Aigyle, 85 Lochton, V. Ayr, 395 Lochton hills, x. Perth, 406 — houae, 408 Loch Torriden, xiv. Ross, 90 Lochtower castle, ruins of^ iii Roxburgh, 164 Lochtreig, xiv. Inverness, 505 Lochtrevie, xiii. Elgin, 196 Loch Trialivall, xiv. Ross, 159 Loch Trudcrscaig, xv. Sutherland, 137 Loch Tubemach, xv. Sutherland, 151 Lochty water, xiii. Elgin, 30 Lochty water, ix. Fife, 128, 195— bleach- field, 676 Lochuisgava, xiv. Inverness, 195 Lochure, x. Perth, 1080 Lochure, xiv. Ross, 117 Loch Urigill, xv. Sutherland, 217 Loch IJrr, iv. Dumfries, 330 Loch Ussie, xiv. Ross, 246 Lochveyatie, xv. Sutherland, 213, 217 Loch West, xiv. Inverness, 162 Lochwharral, xi. Forfar, 436 Lochwinnoch, v. Ayr, 571, 692 Lochwinnoch, parish of, vii. Renfrew, 74 —village of, 76, 97, 104 Lochwood house, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 155, 157 Lochy hiU, ix. Fife, 633 Lochy water, xiii. Banff, 297 Lochy ferry, xiv. Inverness, 119— loch, i5. 504— river, 119, 123 Lockart bum, vi. Lanark, 302 Lockartford bridge, vi. Lanark, 24 Lockerbie, town of, iv. Dumfries^ 210, 455 — house, 458 Lockhead quarry, vL Lanark, 53 Locks, ironstone pit at, vi. Lanark, 647 Lodder hill, iv. DumfHes, 297 Lodge hills, antiquities at, xiii. BanS, 225 Logan house, Cumnock, v. Ayr, 481, 482 Logan bum, iv. Dumfries, 274 Logan water, i. Edinburgh, 30, 311— house, 36 Logan water, vi. Lanark, 31 Logan, remains found at, iii. Peebles, 87 —water, 82 Logan harbour and mull, iv. Wigton, 201 —house, 200, 204, 208 Loganbank house and plantations, L Ed- inburgh, 313, 317 Logan's pillar, v. Ayr, 481 Lc^an's Raiss, property of, vii. Renfrew, 197 Loggie water, iL Linlithgow, 35, 36, vL Lanark, 242 Logie, loch of, xii Aberdeen, 705 — origin of name, 799^Druidical remains at, 709 Logie head, xiii. Banff, 178, 179— bum, 275 Logie vale, xiii. Elgin, 179— -house, 186 Lo^e, parish o^ ix. Fife, 426— house, 857— law, 596 Logie, suppressed parish of, xi. Forfiur, 568— bleachfield and mills, 267— irri- gated meadows, 1(82- house, 164, 178 ^loch, drainage of, 163 Logic, parish of, viii. Stirling, 214 Logieabnond flax-miCs, x. Perth, 207— hills, 198,199 Logie Brj'de, ' suppressed parish of, x. Perth, 443 Logie Buchan, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 799 Logie Coldstonc, parish of, xii. Aberdeen. 1070 Logie Durao, ruins of church of, xii Aberdeen, 572 Logic Easter, parish of, xiv. Ross, 53 Logie Elphinstone house, xii. Aberdeen, 563, 573 Logie Montrose, annexed parish of, xL Forfar, 263 Logie Newton, Druidical remains at, xii, Aberdeen, 287 Logie Pert, parish o^ xi. For&r, 263 Logierait, parish of, x. Perth, 685— Til- lage, 697 Logie Wester, annexed parish o^ xiv. Ross, 363 Loing water, xiv. Ross, 172 Loinheirie bum, xii. Aberdeen, 530 Loirston loch, xi. Kincardine, 198 — im- provements at, 204, 206 Lomond hills, ix. Fife, 1 12, 656, 775, 922, Kinross, 70 Lomond, Ben, viii. Dunbarton, 156, 158, Stirling, 90 Lomond, loch, viiL Dunbarton, 94, 95, 96, 155, 156, 157, 232, Stirling, 89, 90 Lonach hill, xii. Aberdeen, 526 Lonaig isle, viii Dunbarton, 156 Lonan water, vii. Argyle, 516 Lonehead, village of, viii. Stirling, 132, 133 Lonfem, caims at, xiv. Invcmess, 267 Long loch, vii. Argyle, 702, viii. Dunbar- ton, 66, 70, 95, 96, 103, 109, 155, 158, 234— water, viL Argyle, 704 Long loch, xi. For&r, 456 Long loch, vii. Renfrew, 316 Long loch, xiv. Ross, 170, 185 Long Annat point, ix. Fife, 827 Longannet quarr}-, x. Perth, 868 Long Calderwood, mineral spring at, vi. Lanark, 316 — house, 890 Longcastle, suppressed parish of, iv. Wig« ton, 10 — loch, ib. 1 1 Long Causeway, village of, viii. Stirling, 231 Long craig isle, ix. Fife, 827, 828 Long craig pier, Queensferry, ii. Linlith- gow, 11 Long Dalmahoy, ruins of chapel at, i. Edinburgh, 92 XCVl GENERAL IH DEX. Longfiiugh, Roman camp at, l Edin- burgh, 58 Longforgan, pariah o^ x. Perth, 405— village, 406, 407, 410, 418 Longformacus house, iL Berwick, 95— > village, ib. Longformacus and Ellim, united pariihes of, ii. Berwick, 93 Long Forties, bank called the, xi Kincar^ dine, 1 97 Long Gallery cave, xi. Kincardine, 213 Longhope bay, xv. Orkney, 70, 71 Long isle, the, xiv. Inverness, 159, 203 Longlces, village of, x. Perth, 235 Longlone, village of, vL Lanark, 664 Longman hill, xiiL Banff, 276— village, 291 Longman^ grave, the, ix. Fife, 956 Longman^s grave, the, x. Perth, 221 Long Newton, farm and village of, iL Haddington, 155, 162, 163, 165 Long Newton, suppressed pariih o^ iii. Roxburgh, 242 Longniddry house, ruins of, ii. Hadding^ ton, 183, 193— limeworks, 176— pro- perty, 179— village, 186, 193 Longniddry Dean, coal at, iL Hadding- ton, 284 — Druidical remains at, 291 Longridge, village o^ iL Linlithgow, 78 — quarry, 81 Longridge of Kyle hills, v. Ayr, 159 Longshank hill, L Edinburgh, 49 Longside, parish of, xiL Aberdeen, 859 Long Sprouston, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 237 Longstruther bum, iii. Peebles, 141 Long Yester, farm and village of, iL Had- dington, 155, 162, 163, 165 Lonmay, parish of, xiL Aberdeen, 215 — castle, ruins of, 224 Lorabank castle, ruins of, viL Renfrew, 96 Lord Arthur^ seat, xii. Aberdeen, 440 Lord Auchindown^ cairn, xiiL Banfi^ 130 Lord John's pot, xiiL Banff, 98 Lordscaimie loch, drainage of, ix. Fife, 786— castle, 789 Loretto, chapel of, L F^nburgh, 270, 272 — house, 274 Loretto chapel, x. Perth, 66 Lorn, braes of, vii. Argyle, 62 — agricul- tural association, 505 — furnace com- pany, 519 Lomty bum, x. Perth, 899, 904, 1003 Lossie water, xiii. Elgin, 1, 3, 29, 44, 83, 95, 146, 197 Lossiemouth, village and harbour o^ xiiL Elgin, 3, 19, 155, 156 Lossit plantations, viiL Stirling, 147 Lot*8 wife, stone called, i. Edinburgh, 201 Loth, parish of, xv. Sutherland, 188 — water, 189, 193— glen, 191 Lothbeg, rocks at, xv. Sutherland, 1 93— Pictish remains at, 200 Lothian bridge, i. Edinbui^h, 195 Loudon, pariah ot, ▼. Ayr, 834 — ^pttric, remains found in, 845— caaUe^ 846, 849 —hill, 535, 835— battle of; 836— re- mains on, 181, vL Lanark, 303 Louesk, lawhill at, xiL Aberdeen, 424 Louisburgh, town of^ xt. Caithnesi, 121, 143, 156 Loup of Fintry, the, viiL Stirling, 39 Loups of Kenny, the, xL For&r, 612 Lousy liillock, the, xL Forfiur, 665 Louther hills, the, iv. Dumfries, 297, 323, vi. Lanark, 327, 953 Lovat bridge, xiv. Inverness, 870— pro- perty, 367, 369, 497 — ^improTements at, 460 Low Auchennie, remains at, iv. Wigton, 142 Low bridge of Doon, the, ▼. Ayr, 9 Low Chapelton, remains at, v. Ayr, 740 Low Church parish, Paisley, viL Renfrew, 226, 237 Lower hill, xL For&r, 692 — house, 696-— loch, 146— marsh, 384— moor, camp at, 694 Lower Banton, village of, viiL Stirling 159 Jjower Coats, ironstone at, vL Lanark, 647 Lower Kilmorack Mis, xiv. Inverness 489 Lower Laigo, village of; ix. Fife, 436, 442 Lowes, loch of the, iii. Selkirk, 36, 60 Low Green of Ayr, v. Ayr, 9 Lowhere water, vi. Lanark, 302 Low Millbum collier}', vi. Lanark, 724 Lownie, village of, xL Forfiur, 152 Low Orbiston, village of, vi. Lanark, 793 Lowran hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 108 Lowrie's Know, ix. Fife, 106 Low's wark, x. Perth, 71, 1029 Lows, loch of, X. Perth, 673 Lowther, see Louther Lowtis hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 245 Low Valleyfield, village of, x. Perth, 601 Loyal loch, xv. Sutherland, 69, 217 Loyall hill, X. Perth, 1111 Luachragan water, viL Argyle, 517 Luag loch, X. Perth, 252 Luath's stone, xiL Aberdeen, 613 Lubnaig loch, x. Perth, 345, 350 Luce, suppressed parish of; iv. Dumfries 289 Luce bav, iv. Wigton, 36, 61, 66, 162, 163,220— abbey, 88— sands, 162— wa- ter, 67, 76, 82 Luce, New, parish of, iv. Wigton, 76 Luce, Old, parish of, iv. Wigton, 66 Luckcn booths, the, i. Edinburgh, 624 Luckland hill, ix. Fife, 218, 219 Lud castle, rock called, xi. Forfiur, 491 Ludd stone, the, xv. Caithness, 1 15 Lude water, iii. Peebles, 79 Lude house, x. Perth, 569 Luffness house, ii. Haddington, 252, 2S3 — point, 250 GENERAL INDEX. XCVll Lugar water, ▼. Ayr, 106, 160, 323, 475, 476 Lugiite water, i. Edinburgh, 403 — castle, ruins of, 418 Luggan water, vii. Argyle, 668 Luggie bum, vi. Lanark, 401, 653, viii Dunbarton, 137, 172 Lugton barony and village, L Edinburgh, 500,510 Lugton water, v. Ayr, 290, 572, 811, 812, vii. Ileniiew, 537 Lui, Ben, viil Stirling, 90 Luib bridge, xii. Aberdeen, 554 Luichart loch, xiv. Ross, 236 Luidh water, xiL Aberdeen, 648 Luie hilLs xiu Aberdeen, 846 Luin loch, xiv. Ross, 187 Luing island, vii. Argyle, 71 Luire loch, xiv. Invernest), 484, 490 LukestoB house, viiL Stirling, 245 Lum loch, vi. Lanark, 400 Lumbistcr dale, xv. Shetland, 84 Lumphanan, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 1079 Lumphinnan colliery, ix. Kinross, 88 Lumsden, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 412, 413 Lumsden dean, ii. Berwick, 280 Lunac water, xiii. Elgin, 138 Lunan, parish of, xi Forfar, 320 — ^bay, 239, 240, 246, 321--water, 142, 239. 240, 320, 384, 393, 394, 470, 597, 693 —well, 240 Lunan water, x. Perth, 673, 904, 1001, 1003 Lunasting, annexed parish of, xv. Shet- land, 53 — church, 55 Luncarty, battle of,ii. Haddington, 158 — itasite, x. Perth, 163, 173, 176— sup- pressed parish of, 163 — bleachfield, 188 Lundie crag, xi. Forfar, 457 — hill, 663, 664— house, Pictish remains at, 581— loch, 456, 649 Lundie and Fowlis, united parishes of, xi. Forfar, 455 Lundie loch, xv. Sutherland, 25 — mount, 24 Lundin, standing stones of, ix. Fife, 267 —house, 435. 438 Lundin mill, village of, ix. Fife, 442 Lunga isle, viL Argyle, 534 Lunna iirth, xv. Shetland, 82 Lurdenlaw, property of, iiL Roxburgh, 239 Lurg le«Mi mines, viL Argyle, 170 Lurg hill, xiii. Banff, 214 Lurg,ruins of chapel at, viii. Dunbarton,49 Lurky Patiesthom loch, i v. Kirkcudbright, 282 Luscar hill, ix. Fife, 690— den, 695— house, 706 Lusragan water, vii. Argyle, 517 Luas, parish of, viiL Dunbarton, 155 — property, 75 — quarries, 164, 236— vii* lage, 157, 162, 165— water, 156 VOL. XV. Lussa water, vii. Argyle, 281 Luseetter ncss, xv. Shetland, 83 Luther water, xi. Kincardine, 69, 7 1 , 129, 130, 299, 304 Luthcrrauir, village of, xi. Kincaniine, 303, 305 Luthrie, viUage of, ix. Fife, 632, 651 Lylwter, property of, xv. Caithnets, 88, 99— church, 91, 107— village, 92, 104 —ruins of chapel at, 17— fishery, 19 Lyking, cairn at, xv. Orkney, 55— im- provements at, 61 Lylesland, village of, vii. Renfrew, 200 Lylestone, limestone at, v. A3rr, 814 Lymphoy tower, i. Edinburgh, 546 Lymycleuch bum, iiL Roxburgh, 428 Lynchat, village of, xiv. Invernest, 93 Lyndemus hill, ix. Fife, 596 L>'ne bum, ix. Fife, 829 Lyne water, vi. Lanark, 52 Lyne water, iil Peebles, 2, 122, 125, 135, 136, 155, 156, 166 Lyne and Megget, united parishes of^ iii. Peebles, 166 Lynedale plantations, xiv. Inverness, 3'29 Lynedoch house, x. Perth, 145, 150, 162 Lynegar, improvements at, xv. Caithness, 56 Lynemore, cascade at, xiii. Nairn, 27 Lynne, property of, v. Ayr, 217 Lynturk, linn of, xii. Aberdeen, 1106— plantations, 1 107— history of property, nil Lynvuilg. hamlet of, xiv. Inverness, 93 Lyoll hills, xv. Sutherland, 165 Lvon castle, ruins of, ii. Linlithgow, 1 30 Lyon castle, x. Perth, 409— glen, 529, 703 -loch, 530~water, 530, 540, 541, 757, 758 Lyth, property of, xv. Caithness, 114 — improvements at, 116 Maar bum, iv. Dumfries, 323 Mabearce, loch, v. Ayr, 529 — iv. Wigton, 11, 196,232 Macali8ter*s bay, vii Arg>'le, 281 Macallan, annexed parish of, xiii. Elgin, 60 — church and churchyard, 68 Macanree, loch, x. Perth, 1097 Macbeary, see Mabearie Macbeth*s caim and stone, xii. Aberdeen, 1083. 1092 Macbeth 's castle, Broughton, iiL Peeblet, 87 MacbethiB castle, Caimbeddie, x. Perth, 873 Macbeth's castle, Dunsinane, x. Perth, 213 Macbeth's castle, Manner, iiL Peebles, 117 Macbeth'* stone, x. Perth, 234 Macduff, village of, xiu. Banff, 286, 291 MacdufTs castle, Markinch, ix. Fife, 665 Macduff's castle, Wemyss, ix. Fife, 393 Macdurs cave, ix. Fife, 319 I Macduff* cross, ix. Fife, 52, 70 n XCVIU GENERAL IKDEX. Afacdui, Ben, xii. Aberdeen, 647, xiii. Banff, 12.5, 296, 298, Elgin, 198 Macfadyen's cave and stone, vii. Argyle, 85 Machar, chapelry of, vL Lanark, 287— colliery, 723--muir, 728 , Machanshire, district of, vL Lanark, 729 Machar, New, parish of, xiL Aberdeen, 1025 Machar, Old, parish of, xiu Alierdeen, 6, 1074 Machare Mianach, improvement of, xiv. Inverness, 192 Machermore house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 134 Machcrs of Galloway, the, iv. Wigton, 219 Machirhanish bay, vii. Argyle, 455 Machirs of Uist, the, xiv. Inverness, 160 Machony water, x. Perth, 312, 315 Machririoch bay, vlL Argyle, 414 Machry bay, v. Bute, 41 Machry Kill, ruins of church at, v. Ayr, 384 Mackinnonls cave, vii. Argyle, 299, 351, 352 M'liarty, isle of, vii. Argyle, 47 Macleod^s maidens, rocks called, xiv. In- verness, 324 MacIeod*8 tables, hilb called, xiv. Inver- ness, 323 M*Merry colb'eries, ii. 1 76 Macnab^ institution. Dollar, viii. Clack- mannan, 94 M'Niven isle, vii. Argyle, 47 M'Question, cairn at, iv. Dumfries, 475 Madderty, parish of, x. Perth, 748 Maddie water, viii. Clackmannan, 77 Maddy loch, xiv. Inverness, 162 Maddymore rock, xiv. Inverness, 162 Madrany water, x. Perth, 298 Madras college, St Andrews, ix. Fife, 482 Maedie loch, xv. Sutherland, 169 Magbiehiil loch and quarries, iil Peebles, 136 Magdalene vard quarry, xi. Forfar, 5 Maghaigloch, x. Perth, 1226 Magus muir, ix. Fife, 460 Maioh water, v. Ayr, 691, 692 Maiden bower craigs, iv. Dumfries, 2 Maiden castle of Collessie, ix. Fife, 29 Maiden castle of Markinch, ix. Fife, 664 Maiden castle of Roslin, i. Edinburgh, 351 Maiden causeway, xii. Aberdeen, 570 Maiden paps of Roxburgh, iii. Roxburgh, 427 Maiden rock, the, ix. Fife, 456 Maiden Skerry, the, xv. Shetland, 72 Maiden stone of Ayton, ii. Berwick, 131 Maiden stone of Oarioch, xii. Aberdeen, 571,572 Maiden stone of Tulliebody, viii. Clack- mannan, 5G Maiden tree of Dollar, viii. Clackmannan, 93 I Maiden's leap, the, x. Perth, 1032 I Maidens, rocks called the, v. Ayr, 35*2 I Maidenlee, the, vi. Lanark, 250 Main law, ii. Berwick, 94, 99 Main water of Luce, iv. Wigton, 76 Maincastle, «mp called, v. Ayr, 181 Maingill quarry, vi. Lanark, 18 Mainhill quarry, vi. Lanark, 648 Mainland of Orknev isle, xv. Orkney, I, 13, 26, 40, 41, 67', 148, 169^ 196, 204 Mainland of Shetland isle, xv. Shetland, 1, 7, 19, 53, 56, 57, 70, 93, 97, 145 Mains bum, v. Ayr, 692 Mains house, ii. Berwick, 125 Mains castle, xi. For&r, 55, 59 Mains, improvement of, vi Lanark, 833 — castle, ruins o^ 891 [ Mains and Strathmartine, united parishes of^ xi. For&r, 54 Mains of Carmylie quany, xi. Forfkr, 353 Mains of Daviot, ruins of castle at, xiv. Inverness, 518 Mains of Kilpatrick, property of, viii Dun- barton, 42 — trees at, 40 Mains of Kirdals, remains found at, xiii. Elgin, 69 Mainsbank, coins found at. xi. Forfar, 898 Mainside fell, iil Roxburgh, 204 Miusley quarry, xiii. Banff, 390 Maison Dieu, Brechin, xi. For&r, 133, 140 Maison Dieu, Dunbar, ii. Haddington, 79 Maison Dieu, Edinburgh, L Edinburgh, 657 Maison Dieu, Elgin, xiii. Elgin, 7 Maison Dieu, Jedburgh, iii. Roxburgh, 10 Major's Knowe, the, I Edinburgh, 510 Makerston, parish of, iii Roxburgh, 1 37 Malcolm's stone, Glammiss, xi. For&r, 344 Malcolm's tower, Dunfermline, ix. Fife, 822, 848 Malleny house, i Edinburgh, 546 — lime- stone at, 545 Malloch moss, vi I^anark, 303 Mallorc hills, vii. Argyle, 516 Mai's Mire, vii. Renlrcw, 504 Malsach hills, xiii. Banff, 98 Maltan walls, the, iii. Roxburgh, 243— > caves, ib. Malzic bum, iv. Wigton, 1 1 Mam Rattan, pass of, xiv. Inverness, 139 Man, isle of, iv. Dumfries, 265 Manar hill, xii. Aberdeen, 677 — hou.sc, 682 Miinderston house, ii Berwick, 255 Mandrose Yetts, the, x. Perth, 305 Mangaster voe, xv. Shetland, 71 Mani goe, xv. Caithness, 118 Mannel burn, viii. Stirling, 206 Manner, parish of, iii Peebles, 1 10— wa- ter, 2, 110 Mannerhead tower, ruins of, iii. Peeblea, 116 Mannoch hill, xiii. Elgin, 60, 82— moss, 64 QEKERAL INDEX. XCIX Manor point, ruins on, iv. Kirkcudbright, 54 Manor, pariah of, iii. Peebles, 1 10— water, 2, 110 Manor ford, viii. Stirling, 222 — remains at, 227 Manquhill, ruins of castle at, iv. Kirkcud- bright, 371 Mansfield collieries, iv. Dumfries, 299 Mansfield house, v. Ayr, 512 — ^improve- ments at, 515 — limeworks, 511, 512 — collieries, 513 — village, 517 Mansfield Glen limeworks, v. Ayr, 512 ManHfiel'ihaw limeworks, v. Ayr, 512 Manslaughter law, ii. Berwick, 94, 99 — remains at, 100 Manuel, remains at, viii. Stirling, 210 Manuelrig quarry, viii. Stilling, 208 Manxman's lake, iv. Kirkcudbright, 31 Maol Ruidhe hills, xiv. Ross, 39, 42, 63, 348, 350, 365, 381, 384~battle at, 45 Mar forest, xii. Aberdeen, 649 — lodge, 650 Mar bum, iv. Dumfries, 500 March bum, vi. I^inark, 847, 848 March field sjMi, i. Edinburgh, 594 March gill burn, vi. I>anark, 564 Marchmont house, ii. Berwick, 232 Maree loch and isle, xiv. lioss, 91 Mareg bay, xiv. Ross, 159, 167 Maregrioch, remains at, v. Bute, 53 Margaret's law, v. Ayr, 800 Margiu^t's vein lead mine, iv. Dumfries, 3U0, 301,303 Marig harbour, xiv. Ross, 169, 167 Marischall aisle, Dunnottar, xL Kincar^ dine, 222 Marischall college, Aberdeen, xiL Aber- deen, 1163 Mark water, xL Forfar, 192 Markhouse house, xi. For&r, 200 Markie bum, xiv. Inverness, 419 Markinch, parish of, ix. Fife, 655— vil- lage, if). — hill, ih. — antiquities on it, 669 Marie land well, iv. Kirkcudbright, 287 Markie, property of, ii. Haddington, 21 — mins at, ih. Marlagc colliery, vi. Lanark, 302, 723 Marlcfieid house, iii. Roxburgh, 146, 228 Marline ford, vi. Lanark, 670, vii. Ren- frew, 5 Mnrnock ible, v. Bute, 96, 104 Mamock, {larish of, xiii. Banff, 382 Marr's hill, Alloa, remains on, viii. Clack- mannan, 41 Marr's Reive, xii. Aberdeen, 426 Marr's work, Stirling, viii. Stirling, 408 Marsco hill, xiv. Inverness, 300 iMarsh hous(>, iv. Diunfries, 491 Marson, mins of chapel at, viii. Dunbar- ton, 118 Martin i^le, xiv. Rohh, 74 Martin's »tone, xi. Forfar, 5 i Martinliain loch, v. Avr, -74, 650 — pro- p< rty of, 282, 288 Martyrs' bay, vii. Argyle, 337 Martyrs' church, Paisley, vii Renfrew, 227, 239 Martyrs' tomb, RuUion, i. Edinburgh, 315 Mary's brig, iv. Kirkcudbright, 90 Mary*s cleugh, plantations at, iv. Dum- fries, 175 Mary's hill, Kirkliill, xiv. Inverness, 459 Mary's lake, vii. Argyle, 3.55 Mar}''s loch, xiv. Ross, 334 Mary H well, Alness, xiv. Ross, 344 Maiy's well, l^llie, xiii. Elgin, 1 16 Marys well, Marktown, xi. Forfar, 115 Mary (itil)l>'b Htoue, i. Kdinburgh, 202 Mary burgh, village of, xiv. Roas, 21 1,256 MaryculterjjMirish of, xL Kincardine, 189 — houHC, 191 Miiryfield house, xii. Aberdeen, 995 Mary kirk bridge, xi. Forfiu", 268 Marvkirk, parish of, xi. Kincardine, 297 —'village, 298, 303 Mar>port bay, iv. Wigton, 201 Mary town, parish of, xi. Forfiu-, US- law, ib. — village, 185 Mary well, \illage of, xi. Forfar, 498 Matihockmill colliery, vi. Ijanark, 568 Massan water, >'ii. Argyle, 579 — glen, 572 Masterton, tillage ot^ ix. Fife, 874 Mathers, village of, xi. Kincardine, 274<^ Kaim of, 280— limeworks, 289 Mathie water, xiv. Inverness, 430 Matilda, fort, vii. Renfrew, 410 Mauchlane hole, ironstone at, vi. Lanark. 881, 887 Mauchlinc, parish of, v. Avr, 158^hill, 159— vilhi^e, 162, 164 Mauchline muir, battle of, v. Ayr, 161 Maud hill, xiii. Banff, 246 Maudiston, ironstone pits at, viii. Stirling, 209— village, 213 Mauke's hill, ii. Linlithgow, 118 Mauld, school at, xiv. Invemess, 501 Mauldslie castle, vi. Ijanark, 582, 5)57— forest, 564— house, 539— law, 565,— property, 578 Maulfiiarmhonvie mount, xiv. Inverness, 37, 38, 41 Maulside, mineral spring at, v. Ayr, 212 — plantations, 214— house, 220 Maume Soule hill, xiv. Invemeas, 363 Maunderlea hill, xiii. Banff, 144 Mavie Mill, viii. Dunbarton, 215 Mavisbank, house and camp at, L Edin- burgh, 333 Mavisgrove house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 Mavistown, sandhilb of, xiii. Naim, 7 Maxton, parish of, iiL Roxburgh, 115— plantations at, 108 — village, 117 Maxwell, suppressed parish of, iii. Rox- burgh, 127, 308— churchyard of, 317 Maxwell's cross, ii. Berwick, 207 Maxweir» Thorns, iv. Dumfries, 453 Maxwellheujih, villa}»e of. iii. Roxburgh, 321, 334 Maxwellton hoaw, iv. Dumfries, 33*2 GENEBAL I5DEX. Maxwellton, village of, vi. Lanark, 893 Maxwelltown, town of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 227 Maxwellton house, vii. Renfrew, 198— vil- lage, 200 May isle and lighthouse, ix. Fife, 6 11, 612, 942 Maybole, parish of, v. Ayr, 348^K»8tle, ruins of, 365— town of, 365, 366, 373 Mayfield, plantations of, ii. Berwick, 53 Mayish, standing stone at, y. Bute, 23 Mayon house, xiiL Banff, 201 Mayville house, v. Ayr, 451 j Mcadhonach hill, xiv. Ross, 39 ' Meadowbank, rock at, v. Ayr, 744 Meadowbank house, i. Edinburgh, 442 Mcadowhcad, Fen wick, v. Ayr, 776 Meadowhead lead niine, vi. Lanark, 336 — Roman road at, 451 Meadowmill, village of, ii. Haddington, 293, 299 Meag water, xiv. Roes, 367 Meal Buidhe hill, x. Perth, 529 Mealeceanndearg hill, xiv. Ross, 1 82 MealfUarvonie mount, xiv. Inverness, fl7y 38,41 Meal Ohaordie hill, x. Perth, 529 Meal Horn hill, xv. Sutherland, 83, 119 Mealister, ruins of nunnery at, xiv. Ross, 153 Mcall-a^euion hill, xv. Sutherland, 67 Meallmeadhonoch hill, xv. Sutherland, 83 Mearnaig castle, ruins of, vii. Argyle, 241 Mcarns hill, cave at, xi. Forfiir, 177 Meams, parish of, >'ii. Renfrew, 512 — castle, ruins of, 521 — moor, v. Ayr, 774, vii. Renfrew, 389— village, 509— water, 383 Meatliic, annexed parish of, xi. Forfer, 234 Mechanics' institute, Alloa, viii. Clack- mannan, 62 Mechanics* institute, Glasgow, vi. Lanark, 180 Mechanics* institute, Greenock, \ii. Ren- frew, 471 Medicine well, ix. Fife, 128 Medwin waters, iii. Peebles, 156, 176, vi. Lanark, 41, 42, 52, 66, 67, 71, 76, 846, 944 Meet hill, xiL Aberdeen, 345 — cairn on, 302, 356 Meft, remains found at, xiii. Elgin, 46 Mcgdale, marl bed at, iv. Dumfries, 430 Megg's moss, xii. Aberdeen, 349 Megget, annex etl parish of, iii. Peebles, 1 67— water, ih. Selkirk, 37, iv. Dum- fries, 417, 430 Mo^inch ciistle, x. Perth, .'JBO, 381, 386 Melg water, xiv. Hoss, 'J;j(;, 400 Meigle, parish of, x. Perth, 232— house, 235— village, 232, 235 Meigle hill, iii. Selkirk, 11 Meikc wood, xiv. Ross, 439 Meikle water, xiv. Ross, 74 Meikle Binn hiU, viil Stirling, 38, (19, 140, 234 Meikle Cese law, IL Berwick, 94 Meikle Daan house, xiv. Ron, 449 — quarries, 438 Meikle Earnock, tumulus at, vi Lanark, 270 Meikle Famess, village of, xiv. Row, 14 Meikle Ferry, the, xiv. Rosb, 280, 285, 422, XV. Sutherland, 2 Meiklefolla, chapel at, xii. Aberdeen, 339 Meikleholm bum, iv. Dumfries, 102 Meikle Kenny hill, xi. Forfiu*, 611 Meikle Obney, standing stones at, x. Perth, 433 Meikleour house, x. Perth, 676 — village, 677 Meikleriggs collier}', vii. Renfrew, 151 Meikle Roe isle, xv. Shetland, 106 Meikle Mill of Brechin, xi Forfiir, 134 Meikle Thaim rock, ii. Berwick, 215 Meikle Wardhousc of Dunnideer, xii. Aberdeen, 753 Meiklewarthill, village of, ziL Aberdeen, 426 Meiklewood moor, iv. Dumfries, 342 Meiklewood hill and loch, iv. Kirkcud- bright, 65 Meiklewood, Roman remains found at, >'iii. Stirling, 50 — house, ib, 53, 59 I Meikly loch, xiv. Inverness, 38 I Mein water, iv. Dumfries, 289, 290 I Meir biu-n, xiii Banff, 155 ' MellK>st sands, xiv. Ross, 117 ! Meldrum, parish of, xii Aberdeen, 474— house, 476, 478— village, 478, 480 Melfort loch, vii Argj'le, 63, 64 Melgiun water, xi. For&r, 423, 61 1, 637, 670, G75 Melgund castle, ruins of, xi. Forfar, G28 Mellendean bum, iii. Roxburgh, 303 Mcllerstain house, ii Berwick, 21 — vil- Isige, ib. Mellingside, cairns on, xii Aberdeen, 732 Melly house, xv. Shetland, 1 9 Melness quarry, xv. Sutherland, 179 — mission, 181 Melrose, parish of, iii. Roxbuigh, 51— town, 52, 67 — abbey, 58 I Melrose mill, fall at, xiii. Banif, 275 I Melsetter house, xv. Orkney, 75 '■ Melshach hill and spring, xii. Aberdeen, 584 Melundy hill, xiii Elgin, 1 95 Mehich, school, &c. at, xv. Caithness, 20 Melville, ancient parish of, i Edinburgh, .323 — castle, 333— monument, 655 Melville house, ix. Fife, 37, 4 1 Mem big, burial ground at, viii. Dunbar- ton, il8 Menisey, cairns at, xii. Aberdeen, 293— house, 295 Men of Moy, the, xv. Caithness, 23 Menmiur, parish of, xi. Forfar, 656 QENEBAL INDEX. CI Mennoway hills, xii. Aberdeen, 486, 943 Menock water, iv. Dumfries, 297 Menstrie, village of, viii. Stirling, 221,230 Menteith, parish of, x. Perth, 1095 Menzie hill, spring at, vii Renfrew, 540 Menzies castle, x. Perth, 705, 706, 709 Menzion bum, iii. Peebles, 59 — house, 68 — remains found at, ib. Meran water, x. Perth, 541 Merchant Maiden hospital, i. Edinburgh, 724 Merkland, cross of, iv. Dumfries, 279 Merkland loch, xv. Sutherland, 216 Merriston bridge, vi. Lanark, 666 Merryton, soil at, vi. I^anark, 257 Merse of Berwick, ii. Berwick, 361, 363 Merton, parish and village of, ii. Berwick, 26 Merton hall, remains found at, iv. Wig- ton, 177 — house, 178 Mese-howe cairn, xv. Orkney, 68 Meshie bum, xiv. Inverness, 419 Messan water, iv. Wigton, 87 Mess John's well, xii. Aberdeen, 260 Methil, village and harbour of, ix. Fife, 398, 400~chapel, 403 Methilmill, ruins of church at, ix. Fife, 393 Methlick, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 962-^ agricultural association, 971— village, 968 Methven, parish of, x. Perth, 142 — castle, 145, 150, 162— village, 151 Meuble glen, vii. Argyle, 126 Meucra, alum slate at, iii. Selkirk, 61 Mey, post office at, xv. Caithness, 31 — head, 22— loch, 24 Meyrick hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 118 Miaghailt loch, xiv. Inverness, 246 Michclston house, i. Edinburgh, 417 Mickery isle, i. Edinburgh, 592 Mickle BaUoch hiU, xiii. Banff, 214 MickleFarrel, improvements at, xiv. Ross, 464 Mid and South Yell, united parishes of, XV. Shetland, 82 Midbay, property of, xv. Orkney, 120 Midbrake house, xv. Shetland, 26 Mid-calder, parish of, L Edinburgh, 356 — village, 357, 375 Midchingle fishery, xi. Kincardine, 1 99 Migdale loch, xv. Sutherland, 17 Miglo water, ix. Fife, 775 Migvie, annexed parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 839— castle, ruins of, 842 Middle church parish, Paisley, vii Ren- fVew, 226, 238 Middlehillof Alva, viii. Stirling, 117, 187 Middlebie, parish of, iv. DumfHes, 364 Middlefield, remains found at, ii. Berwick, 238 Middlefield house, ix, Fife, 8 Middlefoodie bum, ix. Fife, 771 — village, 774 Middle Gill burn, iv. Dumfnes, 102 Middle Lethendy, old fort at,x. Perth, 272 Middlerigg colliery, viii. Stirling, 193 Middle Ross head, viii. Dunbazton, 156 Middlesknows, quarry at, iii. Roxburgh, 255 Middleton coalfield, viii. Clackmannan, 85 Middleton house, i. Edinburgh, 173, 176 ^village, 184 Middleton house, xi Forfar, 387 Middleton house, ii. Linlithgow, 87 Mid Feara, plantations at, xiv. Ross, 439 Midgarty, wood at, xv. Sutherland, 196 — Pictish remains at. 200 Midgehole fall, vii. Renfrew, 317 Midholra village, iii. Roxburgh, 48 Midhope bum, ii. Linlithgow, 19 — ^house, 26 Midland slate quarry, xv. Orkney, 17 Midlem, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 48 Mid leys, Draidical circles at, xiv. Inver- ness, 451 Midlothian, see Edinburgh Midmar, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 629 — castle, 630 Mid Sannox, v. Bute, 3 Mid Steeple, Dumfries, iv. Dumfries, 14 Midtown bleachfield, vii Renfrew, 102— limeworks, 83 Mid Yell voe, xv. Shetland, 83 Miklic, chapel at, xiv. Inverness, 49 Milbank woollen fectory, xii. Aberdeen, 864 Milbank house, xiii. Nairn, 2 Mil Bui hill, xiv. Ross, 89, 42, 45. 63, 348, 350, 365, 381, 384 Milburn printworks, &c. viii. Dunbarton, 225 Mildewne, battle of, xii. Aberdeen, 1016 Mildovan plantations, viii. Dunbarton, 90 Mildreggan bum, iv. Wigton, 11 Milehill quarry, xi ForfSar, 438 Milholm paper mill, vii. Renfrew, 508 Milhouse house, iv. Dumfries, 141 MUk water, iv. Dumfnes, 195, 208, 204, 290, 452, 537— valley of the, 205 Milkiestone, camp at, iii Peebles, 147 Mill bay, xv. Orkney, 157 Mill bum of Crawfordjohn, vi Lanark, 497 Mill bum of Direlton, ii. Haddington, 204 Mill bum of Kilbride, v. Ayr, 246 MiU bum of Muck, x- Perth, 1248 Mill bum of North Berwick, ii Hadding- ton, 318, 319 Mill bum of Renfrew, vii Renfrew, 5 Mill hill, remains found at, xiii. Banff, 97 Mill inn, Stonehaven, xi. Kincardine, 223 Mill lead of AUnond, x. Perth, 1029 Mill loch, Lochmaben, iv. Dumfries, 379 Mill of Banff, distillery at, xiii. Banff, 44 Mill of Boindie, embankments at, xiii Banff, 234 Mill of Conveth, propertv of, xi. Kincar- dine, 133 Mill of Muchalls, rocks at, xi Kincardine, 245 cu QBNERAL INDEX. Mill of Ncwtoiiy antiquities at, ziL Aber- deen, 1072 Mill of Steps, the, x. Perth, 318 Mill of WilluunstoD, cairn at, ziL Aber- deen, 732 Millbank paper mill, ii. Berwick 141, 331 Millbank house, xi Forfar, 498 Millbank, property of, vii. Renfrew, *513 Millbay village of, vil Aivyle, 79 Millbrae woc^ vL Lianark, 404 Millbrex, chapel at, zii. Aberdeen, 338 Millbum mill, v. A}t, 743 Millbum tower, i. Edinburgh, 92 — plan- tations at, 80 Millbum colliery, vi Lanark, 723 Millbum house, vii. Kenfhiw, 15 Millbum, Dmidical remains at, iii. Rox- burgh, 444 Millcrofl, village of^ iv. Kirkcudbright, 134 Millden cattle show, xi. Forfar, 195 Milldens of Rcscobie, mills at, xL Forfar, 608 Milleamc, qiuirrics at, x. Perth, 336 — house and plantations, ib, 338 Millenwood fell, iii. Roxburgh, 441 Miller's Knowe quarry, iii. liox burgh, 210 Miilc Rinidh hill, xv' Sutherland, 1 1 9 Millerston, village of, vii. Renfrew, 200 Millerton hill, ii. Berwick, 131 Millfield house, viii Stirling, 195 MiU6eld quarries, xi. Forfitr, 571 Millglen quarries, viii. Clackmannan, 68 Millguv, village of, viii. Dunbarton, 58, 64 Millhall factories, ^ii. Renfrew, 396, 401 —property of, 39.^ Milihead, property of, iv. Dumfries, 57 Milihcugh bleachfield, vi. Limark, 747 — bridge, 250, 254, 722, 751— house, 319 -village, 734, 737, 738 Millhill of Carmicliael, the, \i. Lanark, 517 Millhill moss, v. Ayr, 354 Millhills, sandstone quarry o^ ix. Fife, 841 Millhouse, rocks at, viL Renfrew, 386 Milliken house, viL Renfrew, 353, 355, 361, 370— property of, 368 Millig, barony of, viii. Dunbarton, 67 — ruins of chapels at, 75 Milliganton, property of, iv. Dumfries, 554 Millport, village of, v. Bute, 6.0, 75, 78 Milltown of Auchterhousc, xi. Forfar, 654 Milltown of Rothiemay, xiii. Banff, 201, 202 Millwell, school at, vL Lanark, 300 Milmahd hill, camp at, xiL Alx^rdcen, 1092 liiilmount house, xiv. Ross, 306 Milna Craig bridge, xL Forfar, 423 Jtfi/nathort quarrv, ix. Kincardine^ 56 — viJiagc, 5.W, 61, '(iiU-libxatv, Uti ACiincmig, cofBns found al, xiv. V\o»,'il^ \ Milncrofl limcworks, nii. Dunbarton, 178 Milne Graden house, &c.ii. Berwick, 201, 202,208 Milness mission, xv. Sutherland, 1 02 Milnga\'ie mills, viii. Dunbarton, 58 — vil- lage, 50, 64 Milnhead, plantations at, iv. Dumfiies, 55 — j>roperty, 57 Milnholm, cairn at, iii. Roxburgh, 444 Mihihouse bridge, iv. Dumfries, 173 Milntown, village of, xiv. Inverness, 48 Milntown, village of, xiv. Ross, 308 Milrig, property of, v. Ayr, 610 Milton burn, iv. Dumfries, 174 Milton moss, xiii. Elgin, 64 — Danibh re- mains at, 68 Milton loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 347— Bri- tish fort at, 1 9 Milton bridge, vi. I^anark, 722, 750 Milton Duff, plantations at, xiii. Klgin, 3 Milton Ijockhart house, vi. Lanark, 582, 975 — property of, 578 Milton of I^lgonie, village and chapel oU ix. Fife, 682 Milton of Campsie, village of, viiL Stir- ling, 258 Milton of Conan, property of, xL For^, 490 Milton of Jura, village of, vii. Ai^gyle, 54 1 Milton of Kilpatrick, spinnmg mills at, viii. Dunbarton, 25 — village, 29 Milton of Kilmarnock mills, v. Ayr, 549, 550 Milton of Markinch village, ix. Fife, 675 Milton of Mathers, village of, xL Kincar- dine, 272, 285 Milton of Ruthven, the, xi. Forfar, 413 Miltonfield bleachfield, &c. viii. Dunbar- ton, 28 Minch sound, xiv. Inverness, 159, 182, 237, 244, 323, Ros^ 72, 116 Minchmoor hill, iii. Peebles, 37, Selkirk, 30 Mindemal hill, xi. Kincardine, 170 Mindrum, coins found at, iii. Roxburgh, 164 Mine house, copper ore found at, viii. Stirling, 222 Mines and Ulackcraig, village of,iv. Kirk- cudbright, 134 Mingalav isle, xiv. Inverness, 199, 200, 201 Mingarv castle, ruins of, vii. Argjle, 145, 146 * Minginish, district of, xiv. InvemcfHi, 2;>5 Minister Is shealing, the, xiv. Ross, 343 Minister's well, the, viii DunlMuion, 109 Minn bay, xv. Shetland, 99 MinnigaflT, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 117— village, 134, 139 Minnoch water, v. Ayr, 408 Minnonie bum, xiii. Banff, 275 Minnyhive, villagf of, iv. Diuufrifs. .'ISO, GENERAL INDEX. cm Mintlaw, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 863, 860 Minto, parish of, iii. Roxburgh, 352 — ba- rony, 362— craigs, 353, 460— hills, 353 —house, 354, 372, 375— karae, 460 Minto Green, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 366, 370 Minto house hospital, i. Edinburgh, 730 Mioble water, vii. Argyle, 124 Mire of Dunnichen loch, xi. Forfar, 1 46 Mirebird, the, xi. Kincardine, 325 Mires hill, vii. Renfrew, 384 Mirritown, farm of, vi. Lanark, 269 Miser}', mount, viii. Dunbarton, 212 Misk collier}', v. Ayr, 443 Misty law, v. Avr,443, 692, viL Renfrew, 75,83,355 Moan ijtle, viiL Dunbarton, 156, 157 Moan loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 119 Moar, falls of, x. Perth, 542 Moat bum, iii. Peebles, 59 Moat of Alio way, v. Ayr, 39 Moat of Auchterless, xii Aberdeen, 286 Moat of Beith, v. Ayr, 579 Moat of Cumbernauld, viii. Dunbarton, 142 Moat of Cumnock, v. Ayr, 476 Moat of Cupar, ix. Fife, 3 Moat of Dalmellington, v. Ayr, 315 Moat of Dull, X. Perth, 767 Moat of Dumfries, iv. Dumfries, 1 1 Moat of Ellon, xii. Aberdeen, 903 Moat of Hamilton, vi. Lanark, 270 Moat of Hawick, iii. Roxburgh, 392 Moat of Innermessan, iv. Wigton, 86 Moat of Ochiltree, v. Ayr, 109 Moat of Scone, x. Perth, 1064 Moat of StirUng, viii. Stirling, 405 Moat of Symington, v. Ayr, 566 Moat of forbolton, v. Ayr, 747 Moat of Tyrie, xii. Aberdeen, 722 Mochnim, parish of, iv. Wigton, 60— castle, ruins of, 62 — hill and loch, Kirk- cudbright, 382, V. Ayr, 781 Moffiat, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 102— town, 105, 114, 117— water, 102, 125— well, 106 Moffat collieries, vi. Lanark, 243 Moidart, district of, vii. Argyle, 118, 120 ^loch 121 Moile Buidhe hill, xiv. Ross, 39, 42, 63, 348, 350, 365, 381, 384— battle at, 45 Moin, district of, xv. Sutherland, 83— loch, 137 — mountains, 165, 170 Moir loch, xv. Sutherland, 120, 122 Molendinar bum mills, vi. Lanark, 206 Mollance house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 1 97 Mollenbum, village of, vi. Lanark, 408 Mollinbum, viii. Dunbarton, 169 Mollin cleugh, iv. Dimifries, 154 Mollinsbum, rocks at, viii. Dunbarton, 182 Molmont hill, v. Ayr, 179 Moloch hill, camp on, iv. Dumfries, 59 Monadhliadh hilhi, xiu, Elgin, 124, xiv. ^ Inverness, 52, 54, 64, 98, 101, 418, 514 Monahoudie moss, xiii. Elgin, 64 Monaltrie house, xii. Abenleen, 778 Monar loch, xiv. Invemess, 363 Monar loch, xv. Sutherland, 72" Monasteries, see Abbeys Monboddo house, xi. Kincardine, 25, 88 — plantations, 69, 78 Monbois, remains at, xi. Kincardine, 250 Moncrieff chapel, mins of, x. Perth, 808 —hill, 2, 5, 361, 372, 790— cave in, 3 —island, 935 Monciu" castle, ruins of, x. Perth, 832 Monduff", property of, xi. Kincardine, 260 Mondynes, district of, xi. Kincardine, 68 — standing stones o^ 86 Monearn hill, xi. Kincardine, 170 Moness, falls ©f, x. Perth, 686, 759— — house, 769 MonethjTies, remains at, xi. Kincardine, 86 Moneydie, parish of, x. Perth, 198 Monfode bum, v. Ayr, 193 Mongarry, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 449 Moni, pass of, xiv. Inverness, 45 Moniabroch, ancient pariah of, viii. Stir- ling, 138 Moniemore, remains at, v. Bute, 23 Monifieth, parish of, xi. Furfar, 539— \'il- lagc,549 Monikie, parish of, xi. Forfar, 485 Monimail, parish of, ix. Fife, 37 Monivaird loch, x. Perth, 726 Monivaird and Strowan, united parishes of, X. Perth, 723 Monk dyke, the, vii. Renfrew, 15 Monk isle, the, xiv. Inverness, 148 Monkcastle house, v. Ayr, 815, 826 Monk land. New or East, parish of, vi. Lanark, 242— Old or West, parish of, 635— canal, 104, 158, 203,242, 664, 945— collieries, 642— house, 244, 636, 958 — ironstone and steel works, 646, 772 — and Kirkintilloch railway, 664, viii. Dunbarton, 202 Monklaw, Roman camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 12 Monkmire loch, x. Perth, 903, 1181 Monk Mudie's well, xi. Forfar, 3.52 Moukredding colliery, v. Ayr, 814 Monkrigg house, ii. Haddington, 6 Monks' bum, vi. Lanark, 479 Monks* ford, iii. Roxburgh, 61 Monks' house, xv. Orkney, 29 Monks' isle, viii. Dunbarton, 157 Monks' isle, xiv. Inverness, 169 Monks' moss, ix. Fife, 30, 31 Monks' well, ii. Berwick, 1 82 Monkstadt house, xiv. Inverness, 261, 262 Monkstoun, village of, ix. Fife, 30 Monkstoun, village of, vi. Lanark, 406 Monkton, village of, v. Ayr, 171, 174. 176 CIV QESEEilL 19DEX. Monkton and Prentvick^ united pwiibet o<; T. Ayr, 169 MrmkUmhall colliery, L Edinburgh, 250 Monkvuod bridge, r. Ayr, 363— home, 275 Mfmkwood grore home, r. Ayr, 276 Monquhitter, parish oC, xii Aberdeen, 762 Monquiech, property ot, xL Kincardine, 259 Monrieth house, iv. Wigton, 62 — village, 47 Monrithmont moor, xL For&r, 251 Monroman moor, xL Kor&r, 394, 400 MonA hill, iL Linlithgow, 91 Mom Grampiua, battle ot, ix. Fife, 777 Monjiter^B cave, v. Bute, 55 Montblairy caiitle, ruins of, xiii Ban^ ]62~dutiUery, 174~houBe, 146, 163 Montcoffer hill, xiii. Banff, 146— house, xii« Aberdeen, 278 Monteath, strath ot, viii Stirling, 49 Monteithmont moor, xi. For&r, 109 Monteviot house, iii Roxburgh, 178, 181 Montfode castle, ruins of, t. Ayr, 198 Montffomerieston hill, v. Ayr, 494 Monthrewmont moor, xL For&r, 394, 400 Monthrive house, ix. Fife, 268 Mont Keggie, ancient parish ot, xiL Aber- deen, 743 Montlokowrc hill, iv. Wigton, 201 Montrose, ]>ari»h and town of, xi Forfar, 257, 271— bay, 246, 271, 272, 275— nens, 246, 270 Montrfwe'tt dyke, xi. Kincardine, 341 Monwig loch, xiL Al>CTdeen, 260 Monyniusk, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 459 — houAe, 464 — remains at, 463— vil- lage, 40*7 Monynut water, ii. Berwick, 106, Had- dingt/m, 235 Monynut Kdge hill, ii. Haddington, 235 Monzic bum, ix. Fife, 219 Monzie, pariiih of, x. Perth, 262 — house, 26:j, 275 — Druidical remains near, 272 —vale of, 262— village, 27« Moodluw loch, iii. Roxburgh, 88 Moonzic, parish of, ix. Fife, 786— bum, ib. Moorfield tile works, v. Ayr, 547 Moorfoot hills, i. Edinburgh, 49, 198, iii. Peebles, 24 Moorland, school at, viii. Dunbarton, 1 67 MoofH, limeworks of, vi. I^nark, 299 Moore of Galloway, district of, iv. Wig- ton, 219 Moossa, Pictish fort of, xv. Shetland, 154 Moothills, see Moatu MoraU fall of, xiv. Inveraotjs, 39 Morange, district of, xiii. Banff, 124 Morangie, big stone of, xiv. Ross, 284< — bum, 295 Moranside, sec Muiravonside Morar loch, xiv. Inverness, 128 Morar, North, diatrict of, xiv. Inverness, J 29 Monv frhh, the, xiiL Buiff; 1 79, 223, 24€, Q^n, 35, 83, 101, 1 15, 146, 202, 216, Nairn, 7, xir. Inverness, 1, 2,377,459, 463, 465, Ross, 1, 4, 19, 21, 360, 381, 382, XV. Sutherland, 24, 192 Moray, How of, xiiL Elgin, 2 Moray's crown, xiiL Ei^n, 105 Morayshire Farmer'^ Club, zm. Elgiiit 15 Morb'hein hill, xv. Caithncas, 84 Mordington, parkh o^ iL Berwick, 337 — house, 345 More head, xiv. Roes, 74 More loch, xv. Caithness^ 69 — mins of castle at, 72 More loch, xv. SntherUnd, 216 Morebattle and Mow, united pamhea of, iiL Roxburgh, 447 Morebattle, village ci, iiL Roxbuiig^ 146, 447, 453— hill and camp, 448, 451 Moredun house, i. Edinburgh, 1 1 Morcdim hill, x. Perth, 3, 793 Moreham, parish ot, iL Haddingtf on castle, rehu of, vl Lanark, 502 Mom iale, viii Dunbarton, 157 Moss, kirk of, xv. Caithness, 160 Moss tower, mins of, iii. Roxburgh, 223 — coins found at, 227 Moss of Cree, see Cree Moss of Killearn, birthplace of Buchanan at, viii. Stirling, 65 Moss of Urr, improvement of, iv. Kirk- cudbright, 208 Mossat water, xii. Aberdeen, 408 Mossbank house, xv. Shetland, 57 Mossbumford, caves at, iii. Roxburgh, 12 — house, 14 — tower, ruins of, 260 Mossfennan hill, iii. Peebles, 7d^ioiise, 86, 88— orchard, 85 Mossfinnin moss, viii. Donbarton, 183 Moss Flanders, drainage o^ x. Perth, 1109, 1245~Roman camp at, 1107 Mosshatburnfoot, coal at, vi. Lanark, 81 Mosside, antiquities at, xil Aberdeen, 731, 732 Mosside limeworks, vi. Lanark, 569 Mossknowe house, iv. Dumfries, 278, 280 Mossneuk, Roman cement at, vi. Lanark, 882 Mosspaul pass, iii. Roxbuigh, 426, 427 — rise of the Ewes at, iv. Dumfries, 437 — chapel at, 440 Mossplat, cairn at, vi. Lanark, 554 Mosston quany, xi. Forfar, 353 Mosstowie vale, xiii. Elgin, 1 Moss Wulkingshaw, vii. Renfi^w, 538 Motes, see Moats Mothertop hill, xil Aberdeen, 934 Motherwell, property of, vi. Lanark, 269 — village, 467 Motray water, ix. Fife, 219, 533, S34, 578, 632, 771 Moulin, pari^ of, x. Perth, 637— village, 659 Moultry, see Motray Mounach hill, xiv. Ross, 116 Mound, Druidical remains at, xt. Suther- land, 34 Mounie, Druidical remains at, xii. Aber- deen, 822 Mount bog and hill, remains found at, iii. Peebles, 128, 129 Mount hill of Monimail, ix. Fife, 37 Mount village, Campsie, viii. Stirling, 258 Mount Alexander house, x. Perth, 534 Mount Annan house, iv. Dumfries, 526 Mount Battock, xi. Forfar, 191, Kincar- dine, 231, 232— remains on,Forfiur, 623 Mount Blair, xi. Forfar, 422, 424 Mountbleary, see Montblairy Mount Blow house, viii. Dunbarton, 22 Mountboy hill, xi. Forfar, 246 — ^wood, 247, 250 Mount Cameron, coal at, vi. Lanark, 881 Mount Charles house, v. Ayr, 4, 16 Mount Cyrus, plantations at, xi Kincar- dine, 279— house, 283 Mounteviot house, iii. Roxburgh, 178, 181 VOL. XV. Mount Floridon hill, vii. Renfrew, 503 Mountgerald house, xiv. Ross, 366— pro- perty, 320 Mountgower hill, xL Kincardine, 170 Mountgreenan house, &c. v. Avr, 811, 812, 815, 826-colUery, 814 Mount Holly hill, iv. Dumfries, 452 Mount Hooly, L Edinburgh, 657 Mount Keen hill, xi. For&r, 191, Kin- cardine, 24, xii. Aberdeen, 773 Mount Lothian church, ruins o^ i. Edin- burgh, 29 Mount Melville house, ix. Fife, 307 Mount Misery hill, viii. Dunbarton, 212 Mount Oliphant, £&rm of, v. Ayr, 30 Mount Pleasant inn, ii. Bwwick, 2/8 Mount Pleasant liill, ix. Fife, 404 Mountquhannie house, ix. Fife, 538, 544 — property, 551 — quarry, 536 Mountstuart house, v. Bute, 86 Mount Vernon colliery, vi Lanark, 646 Mount Vernon house, i Edinburgh, 1 1 Moumack hill, xiv. Ross, 116 Mouse, see Mouss Mouss, valley of the, vi Lanark, 1-^.. wa- ter, 2, 3, 548, 549, 944 Moussbank quarry, vi. Lanark, 7 Moussmill, bridges at, vi. Lanark, 24 Mouswald, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 442 — village, 447 Mouswald mains, ruins of tower at, iv. Dumfries, 445 Mouth bridge, ii Berwick, 274 Mow, suppressed parish of, iii Roxburgh, 447 Mowbray, property of, xiii. Banff, 15 Mowses bum, iii Roxburgh, 228 Moy, annexeid parish of, xiii. Elgin, 215 — house, 223— loch, Nairn, 44 Moy hall, xiv. Inverness, 100, 104, 106, 517— loch, 98, 100— scene of the rout of, 518 Moy and Dalarossie, united parishes of, xiv. Inverness, 97 Moyness castle, remains, &c. at, xiii Nairn, 12 Muchaim, parish of, vii Aigyle, 509 Muchalls water, xi. Kincardine, 245 — house, 253 Muchrieha*S well and chair, xii. Aberdeen, 1059 Muck bum, x. Perth, 1248 Muck island, xiv. Inverness, 145, 148,153 Muck loch, V. Ayr, 310 Muckarsey Hnn, x. Perth, 1173 Muckhart, parish of, x. Perth, 301 Muckerach castle, ruins of^ xiv. luTemess, 437 Muckle bum of Ardlach, xiii. Nairn, 27 Muckle bum of Auldearn, xiii Nairn, 7,8 Muckle bum of Dyke, xiii. Elgin, 215 Muckle Binn hill, viii. Stirling, 38, 1 1 9, 140,234 Muckle loc\v ^i^VaktA^^u^ ^^s«t\%«tw^^Vs. CVl OKHSKAL niDBX. MuckU Rm iile, zy. SheClaad* 99 Muckroft well, rl Uiuurk, 400 Mucomre bridge, xir. Inveratm, 119 Hucrot, origin of name, iz. Fife, 449 Mudale loch and water, xt. Sntheriaod, 67,68 Mudhouie, property ot, xiiL Banll^ 116 Mudiesbum, village ot, vi Lanark, 408 Hugdoch loch ami caiUe, viii Stirling, 73, 76, 82 Mugdock, property o^ Tiii Dimbarton, 46 Mugdrum croM, ix. Fife, 68 — boiue, 72 —wood, 62— island, 58, x. Perth, 9, 889 Muick loch, xii. Aberdeen, 775 — water and linn, 776 Mulck isle, vii. Argyle, 259 Muidhe BhUrie hill, xiv. Rom, 484 Muilie loch, xiv. In¥eme88, 363, 496 Muillanan Liadh hill, xt. CaithaeM, 13 Muir bum of Beith, t. Ayr, 680 Muir moti ot For&r, xi. Forfiur, 173 Muir of I^kan hills, vii. Argyle, 372 Muir of Ord, xiv. Robb, 381 — fiiir, Invef' noes, 371^4tanding Hones at, 366 Muiravonside, pariiih of, viiL Stirling, 205 — houiie, 207 Muirburn house, vi. Lanark, 296 Muircraig, property of, ix. Fife, 550 Muirdnim, village of, xi. Forfar, 72 Muirdykee, battle of, viL 'Renfrew, 86 Muire loch, xiv. Ross, 334 Muiretiis, tradition regarding, xiiL Banif, 98 Muircnds, improvements of, xiv. Roes, 59 Muircsk, property of, xii. Aberdeen, 991 —house, .095 Muirfield house, ii. Haddington, 212 Muirfoot, see Moorfoot Muirhcad of Caddcr, village of^ vi. La- nark, 408 Muirhou8c, sec Murroes Muirhouse, Roman camp at, i. Edin- burgh, 4 If) — custle, ruins of, 417— house, 596 — plantations, 591 Muirhouse house, vi. Lanark, 615, 621 Muirhouse, Pollok\i birthplace, vii. Ren- frew, 393 Muirhouses colliery, vi. Lanark, 610 Muirhouscs, village of, ii. Linlithgow, 72 Muirkirk, parisli of, v. Ayr, 147 — iron- works, 155 — tarwork, 1 3 1 — village, 153, 156 Muirshiels, linrytes at, v. Ayr, 693 Muirsido of Kinnell, village of, xi. Forfar, 403 Muirside of Kirkintilloch mow, viii. Dun- barton, 188 Muirside of Stevcnston, v. Ayr, 426 Muirtown of Invemcfus village of, xiv. InvcmetM, 30 — houM.', 16 Muirtown of Kinloss, improvements at, xilL Elgin, 208 Muirtown of Marykirk, springs at, xi. Kincardine, 299 142 of Perth, ?iik«e oC x. Pcrtk, Muirrfbld, fium oC xiiL Banft 217 Mniryhall, property o^ iL Luilithfow, 9 I Muiryhall muir, vi Lanark, 656 - Mukie Ben, see Meikle Biim ' Molben bom, xiii. Banff, 359, 360 Mulbuie hiUs, xiv. Roes, 348, 350 ^ Muldeary hills, xiil Ban^ 361, 364 I Muldren house, L Edinburgh, 306 ! Muldren, coal at, vi Lanaik, 81 • Mull, ruins of chapel at, iv. Wigton, 300 I Mnll hill, iv. Wigton, 201 I MuU isle, vii Argyle, 277, 296, 345 I Moll of Cara, vii Aigyle, 395 Mull of Deemess, xr. Orkney, 172 Mull of Galloway, iv. Wigt^m, 37» 200— lighthouse, 201, 209 Mull of Rin^re, vii Argyle, 414 Mull of Logan, iv. Wigton, 201 Mull of Oa, vii Argyle, 645, 661 Mull of Papay, cave at, xr. Orkney, 117 Mullion, barony of^ x. Penh, 164 , MuUoch, remains on, xii Aberdeen, 1057 I Mulloch bay, iv. Kirkcudbright, 861— I bum, 365 • Mulray, battle at, xiv. Invemeai, 509 j Multivie, cairns at, xiv. Ross, 342 - Mumby hirst tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 490 Mumrills, Roman remains at, viii Stir- ling, 362 Munadhleagh, see Monadliadh Muncraig head, iv. Kirkcudbright, 48 Mundole plantations, xiii Elgin, 162 Muncss castle, ruins of^ xv. Shetland, 39 Munlochv, improvements of, xiv. Ross, 59, 60~bay, 381, 382, 387— vilUige,61 Munlochy quarries, xiv. InverneM, 22 Munnock bum, v. Ayr, 193 Munzie hill, spring at, vii. Renfrew, 885 Murder hole, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 131 Murder loch, iv. Dumfries, 40 Murderer^s well, iv. Kirkcudbright, 1 31 Miu-doch, property of, ix. Fife, 551 Muric, quarry of, x. Perth, 373— tree at, 380— tumulus at, 386 Murieston water, i Edinbuigh, 357 — castle, ruins of, 370, 371 Murkle quarry, xv. Caithness, 60^— boy, t6.— battle of, 62 Mumac hill, xiv. Ross, 116 Muman well, xii Aberdeen, 718 Murray bay, iv. Wigton, 132 Murray bum, i Edinburgh, 109 Murray^i islce, iv. Kirkcudbright, 293 Murray's lunatic asylum, x. Perth, 945 Murrayshall hill, x. Perth, 935— house, 938 Murravshall, minerals at, viii Stirling, 309— quarry. 331 Murren isle, viii. Dun barton, 156 Murroch glen, viii Dunbarton, 2 Murroes, parish of, xi. Forfieur, 591 \ '^Msia.N^^iQi^vt.^ q€| XV. Caithness, 114 GBNBRAL INDEX, XVll Munligoe, xt. Caithnea^ 118 Murthly castle, x. Perth, 1007 Murtle house, xii Aberdeen, 106, 108 — burn, 105 — woods, 107, xL Kincaidine, 181 MuBdale lighthouse, yii. Ai^gyle, 232 Muslepool, &rm of, xl Kincardine, 21 Musselburgh, town of, i. Edinburgh, 249, 254, 269, 293 Muthil, parish of, x. Perth, 311 — village, 312, 327, 328, 329 Mutton hill, moss of, xii Aberdeen, 730 Mutton Hole, village of; i. Edinburgh, 601 Mylnefield house, x. Perth, 408 — village, 410,418 Myot hill and house, viii. Stirling, 117 Myrehead, ruins of tower at, iv. Dumfries, 453 Myres castle, ix. Fife, 783 Myres of Kinghorn, the, ix. Fife, 800 Myreside quarry, ii. Berwick, 166 Myresmarl moss, x. Perth, 232 Myrieton, &rm of, xiii. Banfl^ 21 7 Myroch bay, iv. Wigton, 201 Myrtis Knowes, tumuli, xv. Orkney, 140 Nagana, loch, xv. Sutherland, 217 Nagunnaichean caves, xiv. Inverness, 249 Naimh Fhraing cave, xiv. Inverness, 146 Nairn, parish of, xiiL Nairn, 1 — town, 1, 3, 5, 44— river, I, 7, 20, 44, xiv. Inver- ness, 444, 446, 51 3, 515 Nairnshire, observations on, xiii. Nairn, 44 Naime castle, tiunulus at, xl Forfiir, 476 Naime house, x. Perth, 431 Nahiire loch, xiv. Inverness, 484, 490 Nambraithrean point, xiv. InvemeM, 240 Namoin loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 Nanbreacdearg loch, xiv. Inverness, 491 Nan-ean loch, x. Perth, 786 Nan Uamh loch, \u. Argyle, 122 Na Reaull loch, viL Argyle, 122 National monument, Edinburgh, L Edin- burgh, 655 Naughton castle, ruins and history of, ix. Fife, 586— house, 577, 578, 588 Naunt loch, vii. Argyle, 517 — river, 516 Navar, annexed parish of, xu Forfiu*, 687 Naver bay, xv. Sutherland, 68 — loch, ib, —water, 69, 215 Nandale, chapel, &c. of, xv. Sutherland, 199,201 Naw loch,iv. Wigton, 125 Neattie, loch, xiv. Inverness, 491 Necropolis, Glasgow, vi. Lanark, 209 Nedd, harbour at, xv. Sutherland, 115 Needle rock, xiv. Inverness, 289 Needless eye, Colvend, iv. Kirkcudbright, 215 Needle'd eye, Oamrie, xiii. Banff, 274 Needle's eye, Logie Buchan, xii Aber- deen, 801 « Needle's eye, Slains, xii. Aberdeen, 590 Neidpath castle, ruins of, iii. Peebles, 9 Neilston, parish of, vii. Renfrew, 307— village, 330, 339 Neilstone, potato first grown at, viii, Stir- ling, 147 Newark, district of, xv. Orkney, 133 Nell loch, vii. Argyle, 516 Nellfield, ironstone at, vi Lanark, 571— quarries, 590 Nelson'fe monument, Edinburgh, i Edin« buigh, 617, 655 Nelson's tower, Forres, xiii. Elgin, 160 Nemphlar moor, vi. Lanark, 8 — ^uany, 7 — village, 24 Nen thorn, parish of, ii Berwick, 2 Id- house, 216, 217— village, 217 Nerstone, village of, vi. Lanark, 877, 879, 893, 898 Nervelstone colliery, vii. Renfrew, 101 Ness, craigs of, v. Ayr, 335— glen, 309 Ness, loch, xiv. Inverness, 1, 3, 7, 37, 38, 51, 52, 53, 373— river, 2, 3, 7, 22 Ness bay, xv. Orkney, 104— head, 47, 79, 172— fort on, 178 Ness, district o^ xiv. Ross, 141 Ness of Burravoe, xv. Shetland, 83 Ness of Inveigordon, xiv. Ross, 263 NcHscastle, marl pits at, xiv. Inverness, 22 Nessock, port, iv. Wigton, 201 Nesting, parish of, xv. Shetland, 53— churches, 55 Nethan water, vi. Lanark, 31, 608, 944 Ncthanfoot, village of, vi Lanark, 38 Nether Ancrum, village of, iii Roxburgh, 242 Nether Ardroscadale, ruins of chapel at, V. Bute, 103 Nether Ayton, property of, ii. Berwick, 134 Netherbridge limeworks, vi. Lanark, 882 Nether Buckie, quarries at, xiii. Banfi^ 248 Netherbum, the, vi Lanark, 554 — coIp liery, 723 Netherbyres, property and house, ii Ber- wick, 138, 326— quarries, 320 Nether Careston, tumulus at, xi Forfiur, 532 Nether Coll water, xiv. Ross, 120 Nethercraigs, vii. Renfrew, 144 — bridge, 387 Nethercroy, Roman remains at, viii Dun- barton, 141 Netherdale house, xiii Banff, 384 Netherfield, property o^ vi. Lanark, 304 Nethergate of Crail, remains at, ix. Fife, 955 Netherhall, phintations at, iv. Dumfries, 55 Netherhouse colliery, vi Lanark, 646 Netherhouse, property of, vii Renfrew,52l Netherinch bum, viii Stirling, 146 Nether Kilrenny harbour, ix. Fife, 975 Netherlaw house, iv. Kirkcudbright^ 359^ 365 CVIU aSNERAL INDBX. Netberlee printiield, vii. Renft«w, 508 Netherley house, xi. Kincardine, 244, 253 Nether Menzion, plantations at, iii. Peebles, 62 Nethermill burn, xiii. Banfi; 275 Nethennill bum, ii. Linlithgow, 19 Netheraiill distillery, xi. Kincardine, 125 Nethermill factory, v. Ayr, 281 Nethermill, remains found at, v. Ayr, 703 Nethermills, village of, xiii. Banff, 217 Nether Oliver, remains found at, ill Peebles, 63 Netherplace tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 453 Netherplace printfield, vii. Renfrew, 523 Nether Polloc, coal at, viL Renfrew, 152, 157 Nether Polquhortor lime works, V. A3rr,511 Nether Ross head, viii. Dun barton, 156 Nethershiels, Roman camp at, i. Edin- burgh, 416 Netherton, coal at, vi. Lanark, 500 Netherton cross, vi. Lanark, 271 Netherton quarr}', viii. Dunbarton, 57 Netherton, village of, vi. Lanark, 505 Nethertowie, ruins of church at, xii. Aber- \ deen, 417 Nether Tulloch, remains found at, xi. Kincardine, 38 Nether Tyne bleachfield. ix. Fife, 812 Netherwood quarry, viii. Dunbarton, 1 35 Nethy water, xiii. Elgin, 92 Nethy water, x. Perth, 838 Nevay, annexed parish of» xi. Forfar, 475 Neve of Ackemess, xv. Orkney, 116 Nevie, ruins of chapel at, xiii. Banff, 1 33 Nevis, Ben, xiv. Inverness, 117, 119, 503 —loch, 12.0, 525— water, 19 Nc\7d, district of, viii. Dunbarton, 1 1 4 New parish, Greenock, vii. Renfrew, 455 New Abbev, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 244— viflage, 255 New Aberdour, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 265, 270 Newark, Lady, Pictish remains at, xv. Orkney, 138 — ruins of chapel at, 141 Newark, I^onmay, Druidical remains at, xii. Aberdeen, 224 Newark castle, Maybole, ruins of, v. Ayr, 365 Newark castle, Port-Glasgow, ruins of, vii, Renfrew, 64 Newark castle, Selkirk, ruins of, iii. Sel- kirk, 3 Newark house, ruins of, ix. Fife, 343 Newart hill, vi. Lanark, 775 Newarthill, village of, vi. Lanark, 793, 797 New Auohenaim, village of, vi. Lanark, 408 Newbanis qiiarrj', xi. Forfar, 294 — pro- perty, 301 — house, 977 Newbattle, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 63 — abbey, 68— village, 63 Xcwbigging, basaltic coUnnnR at, ix. Fife, 518 — house, 415, 7% — ^V\me tvv\wrvQ^,\ 408— village, '2r>7 ^ Newbigging, Berrie, ftinn of, xi. Kincar- dine, 21 Newbigging, Camwatb, village of, tL La- nark, 90 , Newbigging, Klnnell, spinning mills at,zi Forfar, 407 Newbigging, Lethnot, Dmidical remaint at, xi, Forfar, 689 Newbigging, Newtyle, village of, xL For- far, 562 Newbigging, Oxnam, coins found at, iii. Roxburgh, 262 Newbridge, village of, i. Edinburgh, lS4p 139 New Buckie, mineral spring at, xiiL Banff, 247 Newburgh, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 700 Newburgh, pari£ of, ix. Fife, 56 — town, ib, 63, 71, 75— ferry, x. Perth, 395 Newbum, parish of, ix. Fife, 124 Newbyth, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 278, 281 Newbyth house, ii. Haddington, 81 NewCathcart, village o^ vii Renfrew, 496, 505 Newck house, viii. Stirling, 283 New Craighall colliery, L £dhibuig:h, 251 —village, 294 New Cumnock, parish of, v. Avr, 509— village, 510, 520 New Evilly, village o^ v. Ayr, 388 New Deer, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 175 —village, 182 New Desk, suppressed parish of, xi. For- far, 623 New Duflliis, village of, xiii Elgin, 38, 40 Newe house, xii. Aberdeen, 546 New England bay, iv. Wigton, 201 Newfield, Roman road at, v. Ayr, 278— house, 677, 678 New Galloway, town of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 108, 112, 114, Wigton, 229 New Glencrieff lead mine, iv. Dumfries, 300, 303 Newgord isle, xv. Shetland, 38 New Ilailes house, i. Edinburgh, 288 Newhall, Craill, quarries at, ix. Fife, 946 — tower, niins of, 947 Newhall house, Fetteresso, xi. Kincardine, 253— chapel at, 265 Newhall house, Ketthis, xL Forfar, 641, . 644 Newhall plantations, property, &c. Kirk- michael, xiv. Ross, 43, 47 Newhall house, Linton, iii. Peebles, 157 Newhall house, Pcnnicuik, i, Edinburgh, 36 Xewhalls bum, iii. Peebles, 39 Xewhalls, village of, ii. Linlithgow, 1— pier, 10 Newhavcn, village and qtioad tacra pa- rish of, i. Edinburgh, 781 Ncwhills, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 237 'S^^wVoVccvVvwvsfe.vv. Lanark, 57 — lead or« GENIRAL INDEX. CIX Newhouse, Hamilton, ironstone at, ▼!. Lanark, 259 Newhouse, Holywood, freestone, &c. at, iv. Dumfries, 555 Newhousc, St Ninians, viii. Stirling, 31 6 —village, 403 Newhouse lynns. Yarrow, iii. Selkirk, 37 Newhouse mill, village of, vi Lanark, 887 Newhouses, village of, i. Edinburgh, 1 39 Newington, property of, ix. Fife, 551 New Inverawe house, vii. Argyle, 98 New Keith, viUage of, xiii. Banff, 389, 390 New Kilmarnock, see Fenwick New Kilpatrick, parish of, viii. Dunbarton, 36 Newkirk, village of, viii. Dunbarton, 59 New Lanark, village and manufactures of, vi. Lanark, 12, 19, 22, 23 Newland hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 358 Newlandrigg, village of, i. Edinburgh, 1 83 Newlands buni, iv. Dumfries, 54 Newlands, tumuli at, ii. Haddington, 96 Newlands, Druidical remains at, xi. Kin- cardine, 86 Newlands, limestone at, vi. I^anark, 882 Newlands, parish of, iii. Peebles, 1 35 Newlands, coins found at, vii. Renfrew, 505— bleachfield, 508 New Langholm, village of, iv. Dumfries, 419,422,424 New Leslie castle, ruins of^ xii. Aberdeen, 1023 Newlistou house, i. Edinburgh, 139 New Luce, parish of, iv. Wigton, 76 — vil- lage, 78 New Machar, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 1025 Newmains colliery, vi. Lanark, 775 Newmains house, iv. Dumfries, 383 Newmill house, Dairsie, ix. Fife, 771 Newmill, Dolphinton, camp at, vi. Lanark, 57 Newmill, Keith, village of, xiii. Banff, 389, 390 Newmill, Kilmarnock, the, v. Ayr, 549, 550 Newmill foundery, St Andrews Lhanbryd, xiii. Elgin, 32 Newmill, Torrybum, village of, ix. Fife, 733 Newmills, Fordyce, village of, xiiL Banff, 191 New mills^ Jedburgh, iii. Roxburgh, 14 Newmills tower, Loudon, ruins of, v. Ayr, 838— village, 850 Newmiln harbour, viii. Stirling, 281 New Monkland, parish of, vi. lianark, 242 New Orbiston, Owenite establishment at, vi Lanark, 780 Newport harboiu", ix. Fife, 506, 514— ferrv, 512— \'illage, 508 New Rattray, vill^e of, x. Perth, 242, 243, 246 New Rcay, ullage f]^, xv. CaithnetB, 20 New Sauchy coIUery, viii. Clackmannan, 28, 31 New Saughton house, i. Edinburgh, 597 New Scone, village of, x. Perth, 1071, 1072 Newshot isle, vii. Renfrew, 1 1 7 New Spynie, parish of, xiii. E^lin, 95 Newst^, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 54, New Stonehaven, see Stonehaven New Street church, Edinburgh, L Edin- burgh, 664 New Tarbat, plantations at, xiv. Ross, 301 —castle, ruins of, 305 Newton, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 557— church, ruins of, 568 Newton of Abbotshall, village of^ ix. Fife, 159 Newton of Abercom, village of, iL Lin- lithgow, 30— quarry, 29 Newton, Aboyne, cairns at, xii Aberdeen, 1061 Newton Aird^ house, iv. Dumfries, 560 Newton Argvle, village of, vii Argyle, 433 Newton of Avondale, property of, vi. Lar nark, 304 Newton castle, Ayr, ruins of, v. Ayr, 93 Newton upon Ayr, parish and town of, t. Ayr, 18, 86 Newton, Bedrule, camp at, iii Roxburgh, 283— village and house, 287 Newton castle, Blairgowrie, x. Perth, 915 Newton, Boharm, propertv of, xiii Banff, 364 Newton bum, Cambuslang, vi Lanark, 419— house, 413 Newton house, Crawford, vi. Lanark, 381 Newton of Criech, harbour of, xv. Suther- land, 21 Newtown of Cullen, the, xiii Banff, 342 Newton of Culsalmond, plantations at, xii Aberdeen, 728 Newtown of Cumbrae, village of, v. Bute, 74 Newtown of Dollar, village of, viii. Clack- mannan, 87, 110 Newton Don house, ii. Berwick, 217 Newton of Falkland, village of, ix. Fife, 936 Newton hill, Forgan, ix. Fife, 506 Newton of Glammiss, village of, xi. For- fer, 347 Newton castle, Glenlsla, ruins of, xi. For- far, 428 Newton hall, Keimoway, ix. Fife, 379 Newton church, Kilmadock, ruins of, x. Perth, 1231 Newton of Kiltcam, improvements at, xiv. Ross, 325 Newton house, Kirkhill, xiv. Roes, 325 Newton house, Kirkpatrick, iv. Dumfries, 280 Newtown of Lennel^ v\ll»^^^ vw> ^«t- ex GBNBRAL IHBBX. Newton, Knaps of, Lunan, xi For&r, 826 Newton of Mearns, village of^ m Ren- frew, 523 Newton, Melrose, Tillage oit tiL Koxbujgfa, 67 Newton, Moffie^ caves at, iv. Dumfries, 122 Newton house, Nairn, xiiL Nairn, 2 Newton, Nenthom, village of,ii. Berwick, 217 Newton, Paislej, property of, vii. Ren- frew, 197 Newton, Ralston, village of^ viL Renfrew, 330 Newton house, St Vigeans, xL Forfiur, 497 Newton of Tilliecaim, urns found at, xiL Aberdeen, 1060 Newton, Wamphray, nllage o^ iv. Dum- fries, 142 Newton quarry, Whitsome, ii. Berwick, 176 Newton bum, Wick, xv. Caithness, 123 Newton of Wistown, village of, vi. La- nark, 95, 98— limeworks, 811 NewtonhalU property of, ii. Haddington, 161,163 Newtonhill, property of, xi. Kincardine, 260 Newtonmill house, xi. Forfar, 666 Newtonshaw, village of, xm, Clackman- nan, 132 Newton Stewart, town of^iv. Wigton,168, 178, 179, 187 Newtyle, parish of, xl Forfer, 558 — rail- ways, 40, 565, 686— hill, 558, x. Perth, 961 New Wark, ruins of the, iv. Dumfries, 11 New year field, the, ii. Linlithgow, 1 1 7 Nial Glundubh, the, xiv. Inverness, 338 Niben isle, xv. Shetland, 71 Nic Cleosgeir mhor rock, xiv. Inverness, 324 Niddry church, ruins of, i. Edinburgh, 7 -—house, 11 — quariT, 21 Niddrv, village of, Kirkliston, i. Edin- burgh. 139 Nielsland, property of, vi. I^anark, 269 Nien of Brindister, xv. Shetland, 101 Nigg, parish of, xi. Kincardine, 195— bay, 197, 207 Nigg, parish of, xiv. Ross, 18 — hill, 19— sands, 20, 301 Nine mile bum, village of, i. Edinburgh, 45 Ninestane rig, the, iii. Roxburgh, 227, 444 Nine wells, the, ix. Fife, 58 Ninewclls, plantationH at, ii. Berwick, 126 Nine yards of Stevenston, the, v. Ayr, 452 Nippcs hill, V. Ayr, 510 Nisbct, conventicle at, ii. Ben^ick, 269— castle, site of, 270 — chapel, 276 — house, 270 Nisbet house, trees at, vi. Lanark, 343, 344 Nisbet castle, ruins of,m. Kox\jv\T^,\1b Nisdaie hill, xiv. Invemea, 248 Nith river, iv. Dumfries, 1, 3, 29, 53^ 54, 55, 59, 63, 78, 91, 92, 93, 297, 815, 323, 336, 337, 349, 460, 461, 500, 554, Kirkcudbright, 224, v. Ayr, 509, 510 Nithsdale, iv. Dumfries, 567, v. Ayr, 510 Nithside house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 Nitshill copperas works, vii. Renfrew, 157 —quarry, 149, 153~village, 190, 200, 249 Nivingstone house, ix. KinroH^ 41 — quarry, 44 Nochty water, xiL Aberdeen, 525, 580— bridge, 554 Noddle water, v. Avr, 789 Noe glen, vii. Aigyle, 472— water, 478 Noir loch, xiii. Elgin, 196 Noltland castle, ruins of, xv. Orkney, 122, 123 Noop bay, xv. Orkney, 1 15 — ^head, 1 16 Noop of Noes, the, xv. Shetland, 10 Noran water, xi. Forfiu*, 198, 31 1, 520 Noranside house, xi. Forfar, 198, 313 Norman Dykes, xii. Aberdeen, 108 Normans* law, ix. Fife, 49, 205, 584, 596 Norries law, Roman remains on, is. Fife, 439 Norrieston, chapel at, x. Perth, 1282, 1283 — quoad Mcra parish of, viiL Stir- ling, 264 Norshield, camp at, iii. Peebles, 147 North Bridge of Edinbur^, i. Edinboigh, 644 North British railway, the, i. Edinburgh, 756 North church of Dunfermline, 7i«XM/«iem parish of, ix. Fife, 897 North church of Paisley, vii. Renfrew, 227, 239 North isles of Orkney, the, xv. Orkney, 114, 156 North loch, the, i. Edinburgh, 644 North parish of Greenock, vii. Renfrew, 455 Northbar, spinning mills at, v. Ayr, 591 — village, 593 North barr, property of, vii Renfrew, •SIS North Berwick, parish of, ii. Haddington, 317— law, 318, 320, 358— links, 318— house, 332— abbey, 326— golf club> 834 —town, 323, 338 North brae of Campsie, viii. Stirling, 235 North Calder water, vi. Lanark, 642, 766, 771, 944 North Clermiston, property o^ i. Edin- burgh, 597 Northdale, ruins of chapel at, xv. Shet- land, 25 North Dike, remains at, xv. Orkney, 54 North Devon water, viii. Clackmannan, 7 North East town, village of, vL Lanark, «77 . Northern abbey of Lindores, xii. Aber- OINBBAL IVDBX. CXI Nprthem meeting room>» xiv. InverneH^ 17 North Esk river, I Edinliuigh, 80, 81, 324, 337, 338, 458, 607, ill Peebles, 176— church, i. Edinburgh, 285 North Esk river, xi. Forfar, 192,263, 264, 272, 624, 625, 664, Kincardine, 112, 270, 272, 289, 298, 299 North Farry mills, xL Forfar, 51 1 Northfield, Bower, property of, xv. Caith- ness, 114 Northfield harbour and village, iL Ber- wick, 287 Northfield house, iv. Dumfries, 526 Northfield house, xiii. Elgin, 37 Northfield hou»c, iL Haddington, 310 North Glaasmount house, ix. Fife, 810 North Herbertstiire, district of^ viii. Stir- ling, 116 Northhill, coins found at, xi. Kincardine, 131 Northhouse haugh, Pictish remains at, iii. Roxbuigh, 433 North Knapdale, parish of^ vil Aigyle, 631 North Leith, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 779 North mains of Gladston collieries, ii. Haddington, 175 Northmaving, parish of, xv. Shetland, 70 North Medwin water, vL L«anark, 42, 52, 944 North Middleton, village of, i. Edinburgh, 185 North Morar, district of, xiv. Inverness, 129 North Peraie, chapel at, x. Perth, 1199 North Queensferrv, village, &c. of, ix. Fife, 237, 242, 244. 876 North Queich water, ix. Kinross, 54 North Roe chapel, ruins of, xv. Orkney, 103 North Ronaldsha, parish and island of, XV. Shetland, 75 North Sannox water, v. Bute, 7 North Sutor of Cromarty, the, xiv. Ross, 19, 22, 30 North Synton, plantations at, iii. Rox- burgh, 272 North Ugie water, xii. Aberdeen, 1 37 North Uist island and parish, xiv. Inver- ness, 159 Northwall, district of, xv. Orkney, 1 33-— ruins of chapel at, 141 Northwater, the, i. Edinburgh, 49 Northwater, the, xi. Forfar, 264— bridge, 268, Kincardine, 299 North-west castle, iv. Wi^n, 85 North Yell, annexed parish of, xv. Shet- land, 23 Norton house, i. Edinburgh, 92 Norwick bay, xv. Shetland, 38— burial ground, 40 Noss cave, x v. Caithness, 1 1 8 — ^head, 118, 119— house, 142— loch, 123 Noes isle and sound, xv. Shetland, 1^ 9 — ruins of chapel at| 12 Note o* the Gate, the, iii. Roxburgh, 99 Noth hill, vitrified fort on, xii Aberdeen, 845, 1015 Nottingham, geological appearances at, XV. Caithness, 87 No\iir bum, xiv. Ross, 313 — house, 86ff — plantations at, 346 Novar, property of, xv. Sutherland, 31 Nuns' cave, the, vii. Argyle, 300 Nuns' hill, the, x. Perth, 1107 Nuns' well, the, ii. Berwick, 182 Nungate of Haddington, the, ii Hadding- ton, 13 Nunraw bum, ii. Haddington, 62 — house, 96 Nunsburgh house, ruins at, xv. Shetland, 111— ness, 101 Nuntown, nunnery at, xiv. Inverness, 188 Nutholm hill, iv. Dumfries, 204, 206, 207 —lead ore at, 207 Nutwood house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 356, 365 Nybster rocks, xv. Caithness, 117 Nydie hills, ix. Fiffe, 720— quarries* 475 Oa, mull of, vii. Argyle, 645, 661 Oaken bank, the, xiii. Banff, 98 Oaken brae, remains found at, iii Peebles. 87 Oakenwall, property of, xiii Elgin, 228 — castle, ruins of, 232 Oakfield, village of. ix, Fifb, 176 Oakley house, ix. Fife, 799— loch, 728 Oakshaw clay field, vii Renfrew, 156 Oakwood castle, ruins of, iii Selkirk, 8 Oar water, ix. Fife, 128, 148, 166, 168, 195 Oathlaw or Finavon, parish o^ xi Forfar. 291-.hiU, 626 Oban bay, vii Argyle, 529— town and quoad tacra pariiSi o^ iL, 530, 532 Obbe bum, xiv. Inverness, 156 Obinag harbour, xiv. Ross, 186 Obney hills, x. Perth, 426— quarries* 428 Ocal, cave at, vii Argyle, 129 Occlester, market at, xv. Orlmey, 189 Ocheltree hill, remains on, iv. Wigton. 232 Ochil hills, viii Clackmannan, 66, 67, 76, 77, StirUng, 176, 215, 219, ix. Fife, 426, 53-2, 632, 775, Kinross, 1, 53, 70, x. Perth, 285, 298, 301, 302, 333, 839, 862,882,949,1017, 1172 Ochiltree, parish of, v. Ayr, 105 — castle, ruins of, ib. 109 — village, 113 Ochiltree, Roman camp at, ii Linlitln gow, 175 Ochterlony, churchyard at, xi Forfiu-, 607— house, 608 Ochtertyre house, x. Perth, 727, 741— fiills at, 727— trees at, 1256 Ochto, mission of^ xiv. Ross, 428 Od ness, xv. Orkney, 1 57 Odin'ft cave, vii Aigyle, 279 Odinswick bay> xv. Otkk«^^^^ cxii QBNERAL INDEX. Ofkn bridge, mini of, ¥121 Stirling, 52 Ogilface ci^e, ruins of, ii. Linlithgow, 50 Ogilvic, glen of, xi. Forfar, 339 — castle, ruins o(, 345 Ogilvy castle, ruins of, x. Perth, 299 Ogle house, xi. Forfiir, 200 Ogle glen, x. Perth, 345 Ogston, suppressed parish of, xiii. Elgin, 145 Oich loch, xiv. Inverness, 504 — water, 51 Oikell water, xiv. Ross, 404, 420— xv. Sutherland, 17,212,214 Oilean Duhh, the, xiv. Ross, 38 Oishnie loch, x. Perth, 996 Old Auchenaim, \illage of, vL Lanark, 408 Old bridge of Earn, x. Perth, 811 Oldcake, remains found at, xi. Kincar- dine, 155 Old Cambus, annexed parish of, ii Ber* wick, 290 Oldcastle, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 594, 595 Old Cathcart, village of, vii. Renfrew, 506 Old Cauldron loch, iv. Dumfries, 452 Old Cumnock, parish of, v. Ayr, 476 Old Craighall, village of, I Edinburgh, 294 Old Dailly, ruins of church at, v. Ayr 385 Old Deer, parish of, xiL Aberdeen, 138 — village, 150 Old Dun, ruins of the, viii. Dunbarton, 75 Old Dunskev, ruins of castle of, iv. Wig- ton, 132, 134, 142 Old Ettrick hill, iii. Selkirk, 60 Old Fingland bum, iii. Peebles, 59 Old Glencrieff lead mine, iv. Dumfries, 300, 3(13 Old Oraitncy tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 266 — Druidical remains at, 267 Old Greenlaw farm, ii. Berwick, 40 Oldhall, ruins of, \'iii. Stirling, 53 Oldhamstocks, parish of, il Haddington, 355— village, 356 Old Harestanes, Druidical circles at, iii. Peebles, 129 Oldhaven, l>Ay of, xiii. Ranif, 274, 275 — den of, 273 Oldhill, marl bed at, vi. I^mark, 570 Old Jedburgh, ruins of chapel at, iii. Rox- burgh, 8 Old Keig, Druidical remains at, xii. Aber- deen, 947 Old Keith, village of, xiii. Banff, 389, 390 Old Kilpatrick, pariah of, \iii. Dunbarton, 15— village, i7». 23,29 Old Kirk,Fetlar, ruins of, xv. Shetland, 25 Old Kirk, Gladsmuir, ruins of, ii. Had- dington, 173 Old Kirk's wa\ the, vi. I^anark, 852 Old Luce, parish of, iv. Wigton, 66 Old Machar, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 6, 1074 Old Man of Hoy, the, xv. Orkney, 49 4 Old Meldrum, village of, zii Abotk 478, 480 Old Melrose house, iii Rozbiugfa, ^ vilkge, 51, 56 Old Monkland, parish o£, vi Lanaik,6 —collieries, 642 — ^iron works, 646 Old Montrose, property of. xi Forfiir, I 1 16, 1 18_harbour, 120 Oldmore hill, xiii. Banff, 389 Old Newton, chapel at, ii Berwick. 1 — quarry, 176 Oldney harbour, xv. Sutherland, 115 isle, 106 Old North houw, iii Roxburgh, 430 Old Physic garden, the, i Edinbuigh,6: Old Place glen, viii Stirling, 147 Old Place, village of, vi. Lanark, 321 Old Place of Loudoun, Umeworks. v. Ai 835 ■ Old Place of Mochrum, ruins of; iv. \Vi ton, 62 Old Posso tower, ruins o^ iii. Peebles, 1 Old Rain, \'illage of, xii. Aberdeen, 42< Old Rattray, village o^ x. Perth, 242, 2^ 246 Old Rome colliery, v. Ayr, 668 Oldshields, Druidical remains at, vi. I nark, 363 Oldwalls tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 4 Oldwells quarry, iv. Dumfries, 453 Old Wife's point, vii Argyle, 347 Olgnimore, ruins of chapel at, xv. Caii ness, 74 Oliver tower, ruins of, iii. Peebles, 63 castle, 64 Oliver's Knoll, ix. Fife, 413 Oliver's mounts, i. Edinburgh, 275 Ollaberry church, ruins of, xv. Shetlai 75 Olla's voe, xv. Shetland, 100 Olrick, parish of, xv. Caithness, 59— hi remains on, 61 Omachie quarrj-, xi. Forfar, 540 Omoa ironworks and village, vi. Lanai 631,793 Oon path, the, viii Stirling, 357 Oran, chapel and burial place of, vii A gyle, 333 Oransay isle, vii Argyle, 121, 165. 191 534, 544^house, 545— priory, ruins o if). Orbiston, Owenite establishment at, r Lanark, 780 Orbost house, xiv. Inverness, 329, 341 Orchard park, ii. Haddington, 275 Orchard collieries, vi. Lanark, 568, 590 Orchartl house, viii Stirling 156 Orchardton house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 363 Orchard ton bay and sands, iv. Wigton, 23 Orchardtown limeworks, viii Dunbarton, 182 Orchill bum, xiii. Banff, 359, 360 OrchiU muir, x. Perth, 312— plantations, 318 Ord hill, xii Aberdeen, 873 OEKEBAL INDEX. CXIU Ord, chapel at, xiii. Banff, 175 — hill, 5 Ord house, xiv. Roas, 401— distillery, ib. — muir, 381, Inverness, 366— fieur, 371 Ord of Bressay, xv. Shetland, 8, 10 Ord of Caithness, xv. Caithness, 84, 85, Sutherland, 189, 190, 196 Ord of Keasock, xiv. Ross, 384 Ordbanhill, xiii. Elgin, 137 Ordfundlie hill, xii. Aberdeen, 832 Ordie loch, x. Perth, 673, 995— water, 1 63, 164, 199, 426 Ordiquhill, parish of, xiii. Banff, 79 Orinsay isle, xiv. Inverness, 163 Orkney isles, the, xv. Orkney, 206— li- brary, 11 Ormaclet, &ir at, xiv. Inverness, 195 Ormidale house, vii. Argyie, 673 Ormin, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 135, 149,150 Ormiston hill, L Edinburgh, 438 Ormiston hill house, i. Edinburgh, 442 Ormiston, parish of, ii. Haddington, 130 —collieries, 1 32— cross, 14 1— hall, 1 30, 132, 134, 142— quarries, 132— village, 131, 145 Ormiston, barony of, iii. Roxburgh, 221— tower, ruins of^ 131, 223 Ormond hill, xiv. Ross, 384, 390 Ormsaig, cairns at, vii. Argyie, 147 Ormsary house, vii. Argyie, 262 Oronsay, promontory of, xiv. Inverness, 183 Orphan hospital, ^e, i. Edinburgh, 724 Orphir, parish of, xv. Orkney, 1 3 Orr bridge, village of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 260 Orrea, Roman station of, x. Perth, 1 69 Orrin water, xiv. Ross, 367, 399, 400 Orrock hill, ix. Fife, 405, 407 Orroland house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 360, 365 Orsay isle and lighthouse, vii. Argyie, 651 Orton house, xiii. Banff, 360 Orton chapel, ruins of, xiii. Elgin, 233— property and house, 230 — vale, 228 Orwell, parish of, ix. Kinross, 52 — braes, 53 — church, 59 — standing stones at, 56 Oscar loch, vii. Argyie, 229 Oscar'a bay, vii. Argyie, 229 Osnaburgh, village of, ix. Fife, 774 Osmond stone, bed of, vi. Lanark, 883 Ospisdale, plantations at, xv. Sutherland, 19 Osse Skerry, the, xv. Shetland, 72 Ossian'b grave, x. Perth, 264 Otter house, vii. Argyie, 366— sandbank, 363,366 Otters' bum, the, iv. Wigton, 123 Otterbum, farm of, ii. Berwick, 94 OtterstoB house and loch, ix. Fifb, 181, 182 Ottcrswick bay, xv. Orkney, 86, 87, 133, 193 Ottirvore bay, xiv. Inverness, 200 Ouan loch, x. Perth, 726 Oude water, vii Argyie, 65 VOL. XV. \ Our I^y's hospital, i. Edinbuigh, 667 Our Lady's well, vi. Lanark, 445 Ousie loch, xiv. Ross, 215 Outh quarry, ix. Fife, 840 Over Ancrum, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 242 Over Bervie, see Glenbervie Overbie, camp of, iv. Dumfries, 401 Overbister, d^rict of, xv. Oikney, 133— ruins of chapel at, 141 Overbrae, hill of, xiii. Banff, 295 Overhall house, xii. Aberdeen, 894 Over Kellie, limestone at, ix. Fife, 916 Overlee, remains found at, vii. Renfrew, 501 Overmains, Hmestone oi, ii Berwick, 53 Over Skibo, property of, xv. Sutherland, 4 Overton haugh, vi. Lanark, 257— pro- perty, 304 Overton paper-mill, viL Renfrew, 442— village, 200 Overton, village of, iii Roxbui^h, 142 Oxcleu^ bum, iii. Selkirk, 36 Oxenford castle, i. Edinburgh, 193 Oxenham, see Oxnam Oxgang, cliffs at, viii. Dunbarton, 173 — property of, 193— nuns of church at, 205 Oxhill bum, xiii. Banff, ^47 Oxnam, parish of, iii. Roxburgh, 252 — water, 2, 177, 253, 254, 428 Oxton, village of, ii. Berwick, 89 Oykell river, xiv. Ross, 404, 420, xv. Su- therland, 17, 212, 214 Oyne, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 634 Pabay, ruins of nimnery at, xiv. Ross, 153 Pabba isle, xiv. Inverness, 155, 200, 302 — ruins of chapel on, 305 Packman^ Isle, the, vii. Renfrew, 5 Pad hill, vii. Renfrew, 309 Paddock, witch burnt at, xiv. Inverness,- 469 Paddock stane, the, xi. For&r, 575 Paisley abbey, viL Renfrew, 168, 203 — house, 193— town, 135 Paisley and Renfrew railway, m Ren- frew, 279, 561 Paiston, barony of, ii. Haddington, 130, 139— villages, 142 Palace Craig colliery, vi. Lanark, 644 — ironstone pits, 647 Paldy, ancient parish of, xi. Kincardine, 66 Palharrow bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 869 Pahnallet, caves at, iv. Wigton, 23 — re- mains at, 25 Palm my arm, monument called, vii. Renfrew, 14 Palnackie, village o^ iv. Kirkcudbright, 211,214 Palnure water,! v. Kirkcudbright,! 18, 120 Pamilion, see Pomilion CXIV OBNBRAL IKDBX. Panels^ stone, the, v.' Bute, 54 Panhope harbour, xv. Orkney, 77 Panlandfl, bacon curing at, iv. DumfKea, 164 Panmure woods, xL Forfiu', 68— castle, ruins of, 69 — house, tb. Pans, port of, xiii. Eljpn, 7 Panteth hill, camp on, iv. Dumfries, 445 Pap of Caithness hill, xt. Caithness, 84 Paps of Jura, vii Areyle, 535 Papa sound, xt. Orkney, 157, Shetland, 19 Papa isle, xt. Shetland, 9 Papa little, isle, xt. Shetland, 101, 102 Papa Stour isle, xt. Shetland, 19 Papa Stronsay isle, xt. Orkney, 1 57 Papa Westray isle, xt. Orkney, 1 1 7 Papal Toe, xt. Shetland, 24 Papi goe, XT. Caithness, 118 Paplay, annexed parish of, xt. Orkney, 204, 218 Papple, monastery at, ii. Haddington, 66 Paps of Jura hills, TiL Argyle, 535 Paradise wood, xii. Aberdeen, 460 Parallel roads of Glenroy, the, xiv. InTer- ness, 505 Parbroath castle, ruins of, ix. Fife, 645 Parcock, tree of, xii Aberdeen, 476 Parf, district of, xt. Sutherland, 83 Parisholm, ruins of castle at, Ti. Lanark, 484 Park, property of, xii. Aberdeen, 885, 892 — house, 889 — Druidical remains at, 150 Park quarr}', v. Ayr, 51 1 Park house, xiii. Banff, 81 — loch, 214 Park bum, iT. Dumfries, 500, 503 Park hill, xi. Forfar, 494 — quarrr, 599, 600 Park, camp at, ii. Haddington, 96 Park, mineral spring at, Ti. Lanark, 316 —bum, 315, 945 Park quarries, Tii. Renfrew, 125, 127 Park castle, ruins of, iT. Wigton, 69 Park of Fodderty, monumental stones at, xiv. Ross, 254 Park of Lewis, the, xiv. Ross, 157 Parkbeg, garnets found at, xiiL Banff, 104 Parkend quarr}-, t. Ayr, 438 Parkend, village of, ii Berwick, 208 Parkhall colliery, viii. Stirling, 209 Parkhead bum, Ti. Lanark, 4/9 — Tillage, 793 Parkhill house and plantations, xii. Aber- deen, 1027, 1029 Parkhill house, Polmont, viii. Stirling, 195 Parkhill house, St Vigeans, xi. Forfiur, 497 Parkhouse toll, vi. I^nark, 700 Parkmoor, camp at, v. Ayr, 754 Parknook, village of, ix. Fife, 874 Parliament house, Edinburgh, i. Edin- burgh, 716 Parliament house, SlirUn^, ^\i. Stirling, 404 Parliament sq uare, ¥aMaTid,\Tt. T\fe,^^l v Parnassus hill, riii Dunbarton, 24 1 Parnassus hill, iii Roxbai^g^ 229 Parson's lake, Tii Argyle, 65 Parson's well, xii Aberdeen, 874 Partick house, ruins of, Ti Lanark, 692 — factory and mills, 206, 698, Tiii. Dun- barton, 38 — Tillage, Ti Lanark, 699 — urns found at, 690 Parton, parish oC, iT. Kirkcudbright, 282 Pataig water, xiT. InTemess, 419 PataTieg loch, xIt. Ross, 264 Paterson'a rock, Tii Argyle, 415 Pathelly hall, ruins of, t. Ayr, 778 Pathhead, Tillage of, t. Ayr, 520 Pathhead, Tillage of, i Edinburgh, 59, 60 Pathhead, Tillage of, ix. Fife, 127, 135, 139 Pathhead, Tillage of, Tii. Renfrew, 504 Patiemuir, Tillage of, ix. Fife, 874 Patna collieries, t. Ayr, 276,336 — chapel, 343— quarry, 336— tillage, 342 Pattack water, xIt. InTemess, 505 Paul's field, tradition regarding, xIt. Inrer- ncss, 171 Paulyard bum, tI. Lanark, 848 PaTiUon house, t. Ayr, 202 Pawnwood colhery, ii Haddington, 175 Paxton house, ii. Berwick, 152, 153— vil- lage, 154, 161 Peacockbank tilework, t. Ayr, 737 Peanfuhel, termination of Roman wall at, ii. Linlithgow, 26 Pearsie liill,xi Forfer, 611 — house, 614, 616 Pease den and bridge, ii Berwick, 291, 301,311 Pease tree, vi Lanark, 9 Pea^hill, antiquities found at, ix. Fife, .^87 Peaston, barony of, ii Haddington, 130, 139— villages, 142 Peat knowe, the, iv. Wigton, 207 Peat law, iii. Selkirk, 2 Peattie bum, xi Kincardine, 2 — den, 3 — farm, 21 Pebble hill, i v. Kirkcudbright, 314— mi- neral spring, 317 Peblis to the Play, scene of, iii. Peebles, 10 Peden's cave and pulpit, v. Ayr, 159, 756 Peebles, parish of, iii. Peebles, 1— town, tb. 4, 13, 16 Peeblesshire, obsenrations on, iii. Peebles, 175 Peel fell, iii. Roxburgh, 441 Peel of Dalzeli, ruins of, Ti LauM'k, 453 Peel of Garfarran, Roman fort of, Tiii Stirling, 106 Peel of Gargunnock, ruins of, Tiii Stir- ling, 51 Peelbog, fort of, xii. Aberdeen, 1050, 1089, 1090, 1095— supposed battle at, 1061 '^ftfeVw^^ Vwsafc «wi ^jTo^rtT, ii. Ber- OENBRAL IKDBX. cxv Pefler bum, il Haddington, 30, 31, 44, 203, 204, 249, 250, 358— vale, 1 Peifer or Peflbry water, xi v. Ross, 211, 221,251 Peindinavaig hJIl, xiv. Inveraefls, 218 Peinduin, ruins of castle at, xiv. Inver- ness, 258, 289 Peingowen, lands of; xiv. Inverness, 285 Peirceton, barony of, v. Ayr, 524 — house, 525 Pencaitland, parish of, ii. Haddington, 344 — collieries, 346 — property, 347 Pencraig quarry, ii. Haddington, 19 Pencrestpen hill, ill. Roxburgh, 426, 427 Pended tower, ruins of the, ix. Fife, 852 Penduin castle, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 289 Penelheugh hill, iii. Roxburgh, 128 Penick house, ruins of, xiii. Nairn, 1 2 Penicuik, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 29 — prisoners' depot at, 33 — house, 37 — vil- lage, 38, 45 Penkill water, iv. Kirkcudbright, 1 18, 1 19 Penkiln, ruins of church at, iv. Wigton, 28 Penmachrie, property of, v. Bute, 75 Penmanshiel wood, ii. Berwick, 299, 300 Penmore house, v. Ayr, 529 Pennan bay, xii Aberdeen, 260 ~ quarry, 269— village, 265 Pennel brae, minerals at, vii. Renfrew, 360 Penneltun, termination of the Roman wall at, ii. Linlithgow, 26 Pennersaughs, annexed parish of, iv. Dumfries, 364 Penninghame, parish of, iv. Wigton, 167 —house, 171, 177, 178 Penniwhigate water, i. Edinburgh, 403 Pennon, rocks of, xiii. Banff, 285 Penny stone, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 332 Pennycross house, vii. Argyle, 306 Pennyglen's cross well, v. Ayr, 366 Pennymuir border tryst, iii. Roxburgh, 205— camp on, 259— fairs, 266 — Ro- man road at, 196 Penpont, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 499 — village, 474, 508 Penria hill, camp on, iii. Peebles, 137 Pcnshiel house, ruins of, ii. Haddington, 66— chapel, 61, 66 Penston house, ruins of, ii. Haddington, 184 — collieries and village, 174, 186, 193, 194— plantations, 177 Pentland hills, i. Edinburgh, 30, 108,319, 324, 544, vi. Lanark, 64 — battle of, i. Edinburgh, 315 — ancient parish of, 323 —village, 335 Pentland Frith, xv. Caithness, 21, 23, 35, Orkney, 71, 72 — Skerries and light- house, XV. Caithness, 23, Orkney, 72, 191 Pen ton linns, iv. Dumfries, 485 Penwhcrry castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 529 PepperweU oak, the, x, Perth, 146 Perchhall loch, iv. Dumfries, 178 Perclewan, Roman road, at, v. Ayr, 278 — remains found at, 279 Percy hill, iii. Roxburgh, 448 Perk hill, Macbeth's cairn on, xii. Aber- deen, 1092 Persie hill, x. Perth, 1178, 1198— mine- ral spring, 1181 Perth, town of, x. Perth, 1 Perthshire, summary of statistics oi^ x. Perth, 1289 Petcox, village of, ii. Haddington, 59 Peter lurk, ruins of, xv. Orkney, 141 Peterculter, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 105 Peterhead bay, xii. Aberdeen, 345 — par rish of, 344— town, 345, 356— granite quarries, 363, 364 Pettie, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 375 Pettinain, parish of, vi. Ijanark, 535 — vil- lage, 540 Pettycur harbour, &c. ix. Fife, 801, 815 Petyn, suppressed parish of, xiv. Inver- ness, 375 Phadric craig, xiv. Inverness, 2, 8 — vitri- fied fort, 13 Phantassie, estate of, ii. Haddington, 21 Pharay isle, xv. Orkney, 75, 78, 157, 158 Phesdo house, xi. Kincardine, 25, 87 — improvements at, 87 — plantations, 69, 78 Philliphaugh, battle of, iii. Selkirk, 3 Philogar, farm of, iii. Roxburgh, 193 Philorth house, xii. Aberdeen, 250— wa- ter, 251,296 Phipstown, village of^ ii. Linlithgow, 30 Phona, ruins of chapel at, xiii. Banff, 133 Phorp, property of^ xiii. Elgin, 242 Phuil loch, X. Perth, 345 Physgill, caves at, iv. Wigton, 37 — house, 41 Phvsic gardens, Edinburgh, L Edinburgh, 691 Physic well, Lochmaben, iv. Dumfries, 378 — Carluke, vi. Lanark, 565 — Turiff, xiL Aberdeen, 983 Physicians' hall, Edinburgh, i. Edinburgh, 686 Picardy stone, xii. Aberdeen, 751 Pickcrston hill collieries, vi. Lanark, 775 Picket law, vii. Renfrew, 385 Pick Maw hill, iii. Roxburgh, 25 Picrowall bay, xv. Orkney, 115 — village, 130 Picts' mill, Glammiss, xi. Forfar, 346 Picture gallerv, the, Hamilton palace, vi. Lanark, 272 Piel house, vi. Lanark, 879 Pidourin bum, vL Lanark, 479 Pigeons' cave, vii. Argyle, 395 Pilnure burn, iv. Wigton, 233 Piltanton, see Pooltanton Pingarie craig, coins found at, iv. Dum- fries, 475 Piniel hevL^\\ Vx\\\, \v\. V^^t>«n\x^^ W^ — caTX\p« on, Wl CXVl aENEBAL INDEX. Pinkerton bill, Tiii. Dunbarton, 21 1 Pinkerton, rock» at, xi. Forfar, 144 Pinkie, battle of, i, Edinburgh, 2&4— house, 279 Phikie> hole, iu. Peebles, 123 Plnmore house, v. Ayr, 395 Pinnacle hill house, iii. Roxburgh, 320 — plantations, 327 Piotshaw coal, vi. Lanark, 625, 642, 774 Piper dam loch, xi. Forfer, 461 Pipers' cove, iv. Kirkcudbright, 215 Pirn house, i. Edinbui^h, 417 Pimtaiton, Roman camp at, i. Edinburgh, 416 . Pistol plantings, the, ii Berwick, 169 Pitalpie, battle of, xi. Forfer, 16— tradi- tion regarding, 579 Pitbeadlav cave, xi. Kincardine, 282— hill, 270 Pitblado house, ix. Fife, 8 Pitcairly wood, ix. Fife, 62 Pitcaini bleachfield, x. Perth, 188, 190—- camp at, 171 Pitcaple castle, xii. Aberdeen, 564, 565 — house, 572, 582 Pitcon colliery, v. Ayr, 232 Pitcorthie, monumental stone at, ix. Fife, 976 Pitcullo castle, ruins of, ix. Fife, 223 Pitcur cairn, xi. Forfar, 643 — castle, ruins of, ib. — quarries, 642 Pitdinnes plantations, ix. Fife, 696 Piteadie castle, ruins of, ix. Fife, 81 Pitfaney quarries, xii. Aberdeen, 600 Pitfichie castle, ruins of, xii. Aberdeen, 463 Pitfodels plantations, xi. Kincardine, 181 Pitfour house, xii. Aberdeen, 150 Pitfour castle, x. Perth, 627 Pitgair bum, xiii. Banff, 275— ruins of castle at, 284 Pitgrudie, farm of, xv. Sutherland, 9 Pitjossie, natural arch at, xii. Aberdeen, 295 Pitkaithley mineral spring, x. Perth, 792 Pitkecrie wood, ix. Fife, 913 Pitkcrro, property of, xi. Forfar, 21 Pitlessie hill, ix.'Fife, 558— quarrv, 570 ^village, 568, 574 Pitlochrie bum, xi. Forfar, 421 Pitlochrie, village of, x. Perth, 659 Pitlmidy hill, xiv. Ross, 384 Pitlyal loch, xi. Forfar, 456 Pitmain, Roman camp at, xiv. Inverness, 71 Pitmeddan house, xii. Aberdeen, 132 — gardens, 135 Pitmuies house, xi. Forfar, 387 — remains at, 386 Pitnamoon, improvements at, xi. Kincar- dine, 87 Pitnapies, village of, xi. Forfar, 562 Pitormie house, ix. Fife, 771 Pitrcavie, battle of, \x. Fife, ft^h Pitreavie's hospital ix. Y\fe, ^^4 Pitrodie burn, x. Perth, 1163— -Tillage, 1166 Pitscandly hiU, xiw Forfer, 597, 598— house, 606, 608 — ^remains at, 606 Pitscottie quarry, ix» Fife, 518— spimung mills, 527 Pitsligo, pmish of^ xii. Aberdeen, 396— castle, ruins of, 398 Pitt statue, the, i. Edinbuigh, 655 Pittairthy castle, ruins of, ix. Fife, 365 Pittaris hill, xi. Forfer. 246 Pittarrow house, xL Kincardine, 81^ plantations, 78 — tower, ruins of^ 88 Pittencrieif glen, ix. Fife, 822— quarry, 841 Pittendriech, origin drnaineof,ix. Fife, 366 Pittenweem, parish of, ix* Fif5e, 985 — priory, 985— town, 984 Pittfteld quarry,, vi. Lanark, 18 Pittheaveless, village of; x. Perth, 86, 97 Pittodrie house, xii. Aberdeen, 572, 582, 639— plantations, 636— quarries, 562 Pittrichie house, xiL Aberdeen, 132 Pittulie castle, ruins of, xii Aberdeen, 389— village, 399, 402 Place of Cleisb, ndns of, ix. Kinross, 41 Place of Paisley, ruins ef, vii. Renfrew, 193 Place of Symington, ruins of, Ti» Lanark, 870 Pladda isle and lighthouse, v. Bute, 41 Plaidy, property of, xii. Aberdeen, 991 Plainemile tower, ruins of, viii. Stirling, 363 Platane or Plater forest, xL Forfar, 170, 294 ! Piatt hilL i. Edinburgh, 77— camp on, 90 Playfair monument, i. Edinburgh, 655 Plea brae, the, iiu Roxburgh, 118 Plean collieries, viii. Stirling, 309, 310, 331 — moor, 317 — qvoad sacra parish of, 335- woods, 313 Plean mill, ruins of fort at, viii.' Stirling, 323 Pleasance, origin of name o^ L Edin- burgh, 657 Pleasance, village of, vi. Lanark, 737 Pleasantfield, remarkable trees at, v. Ayr, 3 Plenderleath chapel, ruins of, iii. Rox- l)urgh, 258 Pley fauld, the, xii. Aberdeen, 569 Pkxlda, fell of, xiv. Inverness, 485 Flora bum, iiu Peebles, 39 Plotcock colliery, vi. Jjanark, 258 Plunton castle, ruins of, iv. Kirkcud- bright, 54 Pluscarden abbey, ruins of, xiii. Elgin 8 —hill, 111— valley, 1,3, 240 i Poddocklaw, remains found at, xiii. Banff, , Point house, vi. Lanark, 670, vii. Ren- frew, 4 \ Vwcv\.Vvcv\aaft,tvimulu8 at, v. Bute, 103 GENERAL INDEX. CXVll Polbeath burn, y. Ayr, 536 Polgarre, village of, x. Perth, 382 Polgree water, v. Ayr, 692 Polla water, xv. Sutherland, 166 Poll-dubh, spring of, xii. Aberdeen, 1071 Poll-nan-Ron, pool called, xiv. Rom, 20 Polio bridge, xiv. Ross, 309 Pollock water, vii. Argyle, 124 Pollock, parish of, vil Renfrew, 33 — pro- perty, 521— and Qovan railway, 561 Pollockshaws printfield, vi. Lanark, 157 — village, viL Renfrew, 40, 41 Polmadie, hospital of, vi. Lanark, 687 Polmailly, geology of, xiv. Inverness, 40 — house, 43 Polmaise, property of, viiL Stirling, 328 Polmont, parish of, viii. Stirling, 191— house, 195 Polmontbank house, viii. Stirb'ng, 195 Polmont park house, viii. Stirling, 195 Polmood bum, iii. Peebles, 59 — remains found at, 87 Polmunckshead, property of, vi, Lanark, 487 Polnessan, Roman road at, v. Ayr, 278 Polnoon castle, ruins of, \'ii. Renfrew, 395 —lodge, 354 Polquhaim, ironstone at, v. A}T, 1 06 Polquhaise lime works, v. Ayr, 511 — re- mains found at, 517 Polquhortor limeworks, v. Ayr, 51 1 Pol Roag bay, xiv. Inverness, 326 Poltairve bay, lii. Argyle, 302 Poltalloch, view from, vii. Argyle, 648 Poltanton, see Pooltanton Poltiel loch, xiv. Inverness, 323, 326 Poltry quarry, vi. Lanark, 649 Polwarth, parish of, ii. Berwick, 231— vil- lage, 233 Pomilion, see Powmilion Pomona isle, x v. Orkney, 1, 13, 26,40, 41,67,148,169, 196,204 Ponessan, Roman road at, v. Ayr, 39 Ponfeigh bum, vi. Lanark, 520 — colh'eries, 372,811 Poniel water, vi. Lanark, 31, 479 — cairns at, 485 Poo, see Pow Pooldhulie bridge, xii. Aberdeen, 554 Poolewe, old ironworks at, xiv. Ross, 93 — quocid sacra parish of, 98 Poolflasgan bridge, xiii. Elgin, 63 Pooltanton water, iv. Wigton, 67,82, 125, 130, 135, 163 Porras hill, iii. Peebles, 30 Port of Menteith, parish of, x. Perth, 1095— village, 1102 Port of Spittal moss, iv. Wigton, 1 16 Port of the Atholemen, the, vii. Argyle, 52 Port Allan bay, iv. Wigton, 23 Port Allen, village and harbour of, x. Perth, 382, 394, 395 Port Ankill, remains at, iv. Wigton, 208 Port an Righ, Nigg, xiv. Ross, 24 Port Bannatyne, village of^ v. Bute, 105 111, 112 Port Chaistel, ruins of castle at, xiv. Ross, 460 Port Charlotte, village of, vil Argyle, 652, 655 Port Corkrie bay, iv. Wigton, 201 Port Gumming, village of, xiiL Elgin, 38, 40 Porteasy harbour, xiii. Elgin^ 250 — vil- lage, 260 Port Edgar harbour, ii. Linlithgow, 2 Portellen bay, vii. Argyle, 660 — >'illage, 664, 665 Port Elphinstone, village of^xii Aberdeen, 660, 664 — canal, 663 Porterfield collieries, vil Renfrew, 8 Porterstoun, limestone, &c. at, iv. Dum- fries, 462, 463 Port Gill bay, iv. Wigton, 201 Portr Glasgow, pariah and town of^ vii. Renfrew, 62 Port Gordon, village and harbour of, xiii. Banff, 247, 250, 260 Port Gower, village of, xv. Sutherland, 192, 194, 202, 208— wood at, 196 Portincross castle, ruins of, v. Bute, 70, Ayr, 255 — caves and headland, 244 — harbour, 264 Port Kale, iv. Wigton, 133,. 134 Port Kill, remains found at, viii. Dun- barton, 117 Portlethen harbour, xi. Kincardine, 178, 184— chapel at, 185, 189 Portlich, village of, xiv. Ross, 308, 309 Port Logan harl)Our and village, iv. Wig- ton, 201, 209, 215 Portmaholmack, \illage of, xiv. Ross, 460, 463 — stone coffins found at, 461 Portmaluag, vii. Argyle, 223 Portmary house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 360, 366 Portmoak, parish of, ix. Kinross, 30 Portmontgomery, village of, iv. Wigton, 129 Portmore bay', iv. Wigton, 103 Portmoulin, iv. Wigton, 104, 105 Portmurray, iv. Wigton, 132 Portnacroish, village of, vii. Aigyle, 251 Portnaculter water, xv. Sutherland, 212, 215 Portnaguiran quarry, xiv. Ross, 132 Portnahaven, village of, vii. Aigyle, 651 Portnamurloch, harbour of, vii. Ai;gyle, 22 PortnesBock bay, iv. Wigton, 201 Portnockie, chapel at, xiii. Banff, 266 — village of, 250, 260 Portobello, village of^ i. Edinburgh, 390, 392 Portonkill bay, iv. Wigton, 201 Port Our harbour, xv. Sutherland, 101 Portpatrick, parish of, iv. Wigton, 129— town and harbour^ 132 CXVlll GENERAL IHDBX. Portramny harbour, vii. Argyle, 2*29— village, 251 Portree, parish of, xiv. Invemefls, 218 — harbour, ib. 231~locb, 218, 219 Portsoy, bay of, xiii. Banff, \79^quoad sacra parish, 178 — town, 190, 191 Portsoy, village of, rl Forfar, 663 PortuiBgen bay, viL Argyle, 302 Portvasgo, rocks at, xv. Sutherland, 170 ^-quarry, 179 Port Whapple, bay of; iv. Wigton, 23 Port William, village of, iv. Wigton, 65 Port Wyms, village of, vii. Argyle, 652, 655 Posso tower, ruins of, iii. Peebles, 116 Pot bum, xiv. Ross, 20 Potarch bridge, xi. Kincardine, 330, xil Aberdeen, 790, 1066 Potbum, &rm-house of, iii Selkirk, 60 Potento house, x. Perth, 235 Pottie kirk, ruins of, x. Perth, 810 Pow bum, V. Ayr, 169, 171, 667 Pow bum, i. Edinburgh, 559 Pow burn, ix. Kinross, 45, 52 Pow bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 215 Pow bum, X. Perth, 143, 249, 252, 748, 1028 Pow bum, viii. Stirling, 281, 340, 342 Powrie castle, ruins of, xi. Forfar, 593 Powfoot, village of, iv. Dumfries, 253 Powfoulis house, viii. Stirb'ng, 283 Powgree bum, v. Ayr, 574 Powgarvie harbour, x. Perth, 836 Powis house, xii. Aberdeen, 1076 Powmill bridge, ix. Kinross, 45, 46 Powniillion water, vi. I^nark, 302, 878, 879 Poyntzfield house, property, &c. xiv. Ross, 40, 43, 47 Preaching brae, the, vi. Lanark, 420 Preaching cave, v. Bute, 55 Preaching walls, iv. Dumfries, 342 Preceptory of St John's, Torphichen, ii. Linlithgow, 47 Premnay, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 692 Prenderguest property and house, ii. Ber- wick, 136 Presholm house, xiii. Banff, 253, 255 Pressmennan house, lake, &c. ii. Had- dington, 55 Preston Hall, l Edinburgh, 194 — village of, 195 Preston, annexed parish of, iL Berwick, 115 — barony, 118 — bridge, 116 Preston, battle of, ii. Haddington, 293, 307 — cross and tower, 310 — village, 21, 22,309, 313 Preston, stone cross at, iv. Kirkcudbright, 238 Preston isle, ii. Linlithgow, 121 Prcstoncleuch, camp at, ii. Berwick, 119 Prestonfield house, i. Edinburgh, 390 Prestongrango colliery, W. Ha^w^ow, 313— harbour, '2»4 Prestonhall house, ix. V\fe«H Prestonholm mill, i. Edinbuqf^ 608^ 609 —village, 609 Prestonkirk, parish o^ ii. Haddington, 18 Prehtonpans, parish o^ ii Haddington, 304— village, 309, 313 Prestwick, annexed parish of; v. Ayr, 169 collieries, 171— nndhillfl, 2 — village^ 174, 176 Prestwick toll, village of, v. Ayr, 1 74, 176 Priesthaugh, the, iii. Roxburgh, 4 28— fort, &c. at, 433 Priesthill, Dalrymple, caim at, t. Ayr, 280 Priesthill, Liberton, L Edinboi)^, 8 Priesthill, Muirkirk, farm o^ v. Ayr, 152 Priesthope glen, iii Peeblesi, 27 Priestinch bog, ii Linlithgow, 19 — col- j Hery, 20— hill, 1 8 Priest isle, xiv. Ross, 74 Priestlaw, camp at, ii. Haddington, 65 Priestown of Kilbarchan, vii Renfrew, 366 Priest side, tradition regarding, iv. Dum- fne8,248 Priests bum, ix. Fife, 49 Priest's caim, xi Kincardine, 27 Priest's craig well, xiii Banff, 255 Priesfa crown, remains found at, iiL Rox- burgh, 227 Priest's isle, vii Argyle, 97, 373 Priest's land, v. Ayr, 364 Priest's pool, vi Lanark, 503 Priest's well, iii. Roxburgh, 227 Primside loch, iii. Roxburgh, 160, 448, 450 PriucelB cave, Uist,xiv. Invemesa, 183 Prince Edward's hill, vii Argyle, 423 Printfield mills, xii. Aberdeen, 1077 Prior walls, Crail, ix. Fife, 964 Prior's well, ix. Fife, 580 Prior's wood, iii Roxburgh, 61 Prior Lctham Sycamore, the. ix. 306 Priorlidcn orchis, iv. Dumfries, 488 Priorv of Coldhigham, ii. Berwick, 282 Priory of Crail, ix. Fife, 964 Priory of Fy vie, xii. Aberdeen, 327 Priory of Inchmahone, x. Perth, 1105 Priory of Halgreen, iv. Dumfries, 490 Priorv of North Berwick, ii. Haddington, 326 Priory of Pittenweem, ix. Fife, 985 Priory of St Marv'S isle, iv. Kirkcud- bright, 22 Prior)' of St Scrvanus, ix. Kinross, 30, 33 Priory holm, the, iv. Dumfries, 483 Priosmhcjill hilL, xiv. Inverness, 295 Privick mill, v. Ayr, 747 Proaig bay, vii. Argyle, 661 Prora, property of, ii Haddington, 45 Proscn glen, xi Forfar, 158 — water, 159, 165,435,611 Proudfoot, rocks at, xv, Caithness, 1 18 — promontory, 1 1 9 Vt^NQ(^% ^^»:^ tofl 'SVKxVXft^ iVve., ii Had- QBNERAL INDEX. CXIX Pu bum, the, viiL Stirling, 236 Puddle burn, iu Haddington, 146 Puddough bum, vii. Renfrew, 5 Puidrac, obelisk of, x. Perth, 346 Pulquhite, subterranean moss at, xii. Aberdeen, 730 Pulroesie, property of, xv. Sutherland, 4 Pultneytown, town of, xv. Caithness, 121, 143, 154— church, 164 Purophcrston castle, fuins of, i. Edinburgh, 370 Pundler*B know, barrow called, ix. Fife, 106 Purves hall, ii. Berwick, 55 Purves hill, remains on, iii. Peebles, 30 Purves haugh bridge, ii. Berwick, 348 Puttenmill, sandstone of, ii. Berwick, 268 Pyketstane bin, iii. Peebles, 79, 121, 127 Pykethowe hill, iii. Roxburgh, 427 Pyot Dykes quarries, xL Forfiftr, 585 Pyotshaw coal, vL Lanark, 566, 610 Quaas, limestone at, iv. Diunfries, 453 Quaich stone, xii. Aberdeen, 122 Quaich glen, x. Perth, 703, 753— water, 453,455,705,757,758,1018 Quair water, iiL Peebles, 37, 39 Quantemess, remains at, xv. Orkney, 213 Quarff, annexed parish of, xv. Shetland, 8 — church, &c. 11 Quarrelbura quarry, viii. Clackmannan, 83 Quarrelton colliery, vii. Renfrew, 111,151 —village, 190, 201, 249 Quarrelwood, quarry at, iv. Dumfries, 54 Quarol house, viii. Stirling, 362— village, 375 Quarolshore, village of, viii. Stirling, 342 Quarry hill, iii. Roxburgh, 52 Quarrypark quarries, xi. Forfar, 598, 599^ 600 Quarrywood.hill and quarries, xiii. Elgin, 9,98 Quarter, coal ut, v. Ayr, 791 Quarter house,iii. Peebles, 86, 88— knowe, 63 Quarter collieries, vi. Lanark, 257 Quarter house, viii Stirling, 382 Quaw castle, ruins of, vi. Lanark, 1 3 Queen Blearie's stone, vii. Renfrew, 14 Queen Mary's chair, xi. Kincardine, 339 Queensberry bay, iv. Dumfries, 245— vil- lage, i6. 253— hiU, 40, 77, 103, 124— rise of the Clyde at, vi. Lanark, 771 Queen ti cairn, iii. Roxburgh, 457 Queensferry, parish of, il Linlithgow, 1 — town, t6. 2, 9 Queensferry, North, village of, ix. Fife, 237, 242, 244, 876 Quecn*s haugh, remains at, viii. Stirling, 184 Queen's hill, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 89 Quecn^ house, ruins of the, ix. Fife, 851 Queen> mire, the, iii. Roxburgh, 212 Queen"^ road, xii Aberdeen, 599 \ Queen's room, Borthwick, i Edinburgh, 172— Cakemoor, 193 Quecnside loch, vii. Renfrew, 82 Queen's seat, Inveresk, i Edinburgh, 279 Queen's seat, Cathkin, vi Lanark, 601 Queich water, ix. Kinross, 54 Quhitc camp, vi. Lajiark, 255 — property of, 268 Quhyte Woollen hilh^ iv. Dumfries, 170, 451 Quien loch, v. Bute, 83, 84, 99 Quinzieburn, viii Stirling, 146 — mill, 159 Quiraing, scenery of, xiv. Inverness, 238 Quoich glen, xiv. Inverness, 504 Quothquhan, annexed parish of, vi Lanark, 41 — house, 43 Quoyhouse loch, xv. Shetland, 37 Quoyloo, standing stone at, xv. Orkney, 54 Quovness, Pictish remains at, xv. Orkney, 137 Quoys, limestone at, xv. Caithness, 24 Quytefield chapel ruins of, xi. Forfiur, 241 Ra, Ben, xv. Caithness, 13 Rabbits' isles, the, xv. Sutherland, 167 Race of Strangers, the, iv. Wigton, 134 Rachan, tumuli at, iii. Peebles, 87— hill, 78— house, 86, 87— lochs, 81— quai^ ries, 82 Rackwick, gypsum at, v. Orkney, 50 Radder castle, ruins of, xv. Caithness, 141 Raderaie village and quarry, ix. Fife, 805, 307 Radh, Ben, xv. Caithness, 13 Rae, loch, x. Perth. 1003 Raeberry cattle, ruins of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 20 • Raebumfoot, Roman camp at, iv. Dum- fries, 266, 402 Raecleuch, iv. Dumfries, 102 Raecleuch, camps at, ii. Berwick, 72, 237 Rae Dike, the, xi Kincardine, 129 Raehills house, iv. Dumfries, 67, 154, 155, 158 Raemoor, property of, xi. Kincardine, 326 Raes limeworks, v. Lanark, 569 Raesgill, ironstone at, vi Lanark, 571— limeworks, 569 Raiford, parish of, xiii. Elgin, 238— bum, 241 Raid of Pettie, scene of, xiv. Inverness, 516 Raid of Reidswire, iii. Roxburgh, 103 Raid of Ruthven, x. Perth, 1030 Raigmore, improvements at, xiv. Inver- ness, 455 — house, 16 Rainieshills, plantations on, xii Aberdeen, 1027 Raining's school, xiv. Inverness, 1 7, 30 Rainy castle, ruins of, xii. Aberdeen, 981 Raiss castle, ruins of^ vii. Renfrew, 193 Rait bum, x. Perth, 1163— village, 1166 Rait castle, mins of, xiii. Nairn, 1, 9 Raith house and property, ix. Fife, 153, 801 — ^lake and grounds, 148 — tower, 150, 153 cxx OBHBRAL INDBZ. Raitts born, xIt. InyerneMy 84 — cave, 88 Ralston house, vii. Renfrew, 198 — pro- perty, 585— village, 330 Rammerscales house, iv. Dumfries, 374 Ramna stacks rocks, xv. Shetland, 72 Ramore, property of^ xiv. Roes, 435 Ramphorlie castle, ruins o^ vii Renfrew, Ramsay harbour and village, vii Aigyle, 229, 251 Rancock Glen, v. Ayr, 352 Randerstone headland, ix. Fife, 90 Randie ford, viii. Stirling, 304, 307 Randolph bridge, xiii. Elgin, 182 Randolph house, viii. Stirling, 402— standing stones of, 324 Randolph hill mills, viii. Stirling, 129 RanfUrUe castle, ruins of, viii Renfrew, 365— property of, 363 Rangay loch, xv. Caithness, 86 Range castle, camp called, iv. Dumfries, 373 Rankeilour house, ix. Fife, 41 Rankle bum, iii. Selkirk, 61— ruins at, 66 Rannachie, battle of, xiii. BanfS^ 318— remains at, 255 Rannes, cairn at, xiii. Banff, 254— house, 249 Rannoch bridge, xiii. Elgin, 182 Rannoch, district of, x. Perth, 533 — loch, 529, 538_lodge, 535 Raploch, soil at, vi. Jjanork, 257— colliery, 723— house, 726, 729 Raploch village, viii. Stirling, 427, 432 Rapness, rocks at, xv. Orkney, 1 14 — bav, 115— head, 116 Rorichie, spring at, xiv. Ross, 2 1 — Danish fort at, 24 Rasay isle, xiv. Inverness, 219 — house, 225— plantations, 224 — quarries, 222 Rasay water, xiv. R^oss, 235, 236 Rashelee quarry, vii. Renfrew, 127 Ratagan, pass of, xiv. Ross, 182 Rathad-na-murlich, the, xiii Elgin, 137 Ruthen, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 293 Rathillet hill and house, ix. Fife, 538— property, 551 Rathmoreal church, ruins o^ xii. Aber- deen, 747 Ratho, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 76 — house, 92— village, 97 Rathven, parish of, xiii. Banff, 245 — vil- lage, 260 Rats hill, iii. Peebles, 80 • Rattray, burgh of, xii. Aberdeen, 708— head, 723 Rattray, parish of, x. Perth, 239 — hill and castle, 241— village, 242, 243, 246 Ravelaw, residence of Erskine at, ii. Ber- wick, 170 Ravclrig hill, camp on, i. Edinburgh, 547 — property, 549 Ravelston, property of,i. E perty, 268 — ^wood, camp at, 444 Ross, village of, x. Perth, 590 Ross castle, ruins of, xiv. Roes, 221— -and Cromarty, summary of statistiot o^ 468 Ross head, iv. Wigton, 24 Roasachy bum, xiL Aberdeen, 1049 Ross Arden head, viiL Dunbarton, 156 Rofisdhu head, viii. Dunbarton, 156 — house, ib, 161 Rossend castle, ix. Fife, 41 3 Roflsfinlass head, viii. Dunbarton, 156 Rosne loch, drainage of, iz. Fife, 22, 33 Roflsie bum, x. Perth, 827— church, ruins of, 831— hill, 285, 717, 826— priory, 408, 833 Rossie isle, village of, xi. Forfar, 252 Roflsie moor, xL For&r, 109, 248, 404 — house, 252 Rossiter, ruins of chapel at, xv. Shetland, 25 Rosskeen, parish of, xiv. Ross, 262 Rossland, remains found at, vii. Renfrew, •513— village, *520 Rosyth, annexed parish of, ix. Fife, 230^ castle, ruins of, 239— church, 246, 824 RotcheU, sandstone at, iv. Dumd&iee, 206 Rothes papei^mills and bleachfield, ix. Fife, 672, 676 Rothes, parish of, xiii. Elgin, 228 — castle, mins of, 232— hills, 89— village, 40, 229, 230, 234 Rothesay, parish of, v. Bute, 95 — bay, 96 —castle, 100, 101, 108— fiwjtory. 111 town, 101 Rothie house, xii. Aberdeen, 331 Rothiemay, parish of, xiii. Banff, 199 — house, 201 Rothiemurchus, qu/xid sacra parish of, xiii. Elgin, 136— forests, 57, 139 Rothmaise hill, xii. Aberdeen, 421 — house, 426 Rothnick, property o^ xi. Kincardine, 259 Rotmel castle, ruins of, x. Perth, 988 — —lochs, 995 Rottal, remains at, xi. Forfar, 443 Rotten bum, vi. Lanark, 250, 315, 945— colliery, 316 Rotten Calder bum, vi. Lanark, 315, 944 Rottraw tower, ruins o^ iv. Kirkcudbright, 55 Rouchcastle, site of, iii. Roxburgh, 285 Roudh, Druidical remains at, xiv. Inver- ness, 170 Rough bum, v. Ayr, 692 Rough hill, fort on, vl Lanark, 890 Roughbank, mills at, v. Ayr, 591 Roughcastle, remains at, \iii. Stirling, 1 1 Roiighcastle, the, v. Ayr, 452 Roughchesler, site of, iii. Roxburgh, 285 Roughlynook hill, iii. Roxburgh, 3 RouU, see Rule Round hilJ, camp on, viii, Dunbarton, 22 Round tower of Abemethy, the, x. Perth, 847 Roundabout, camp called the, xii. Aber- deen, 499 Roundy hill, xL Forfar, 162 Rousay and Eagleshay, united parishes of, XV, Orkney, 83 Rousay isle, xv. Orkney, 83, 116 Rousholm head, xv. Orkney, 157 Routen biim, the, v. Ayr, 790 — ^improve- ments at, 80S Routing bridge, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 266 Routing well, the, I Edinburgh, 283 Rova head slate quarry, xv. Shetland, 65 Row, parish o^ viiL Dunbarton, 65— vil- lage, 67 Row, hole of, XV. Orkney, 42 — rocks at, 173 Rowallan castle, ruins o^ v. Ayr, 541 — mill at, 549,550 Rowan bum, iv. Dumfries, 485^orchards, 488 Rowardennan inn, viiL Stirling, 90 — ^ferry, Dunbarton, 156 Rowcan, village of, iv. Dumfries, 32 Roxburgh, parish of, iii Roxburgh, 127 — ruins of town and castle of, 130 — tower, 131— village, 132, 133 Roxburghshire, observations on, iii. Rox- bui^h, 459 Roy glen, xiv. Invemess, 504 Roysd botanic gardens, Edinburgh, L Ed- inburgh, 691— exchange, 644 — infirma- ry, 728— institution, 698, 699, 704 Roy's caim hill, xiu. Elgin, 60 Roystoun house, L Edinburgh, 596 Rozelle house, v. Ayr, 4, 16 Ruaidh, Ben, xv. Caithness, 13 Ruar, loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 Ruardinnan ferry, viii Dunbarton, 156 — inn, Stirling, 90 Ruberslaw, iii. Roxburgh, 54, 208, 281, 355, 426, 427, 460— camp on, 212 Rubislaw, ketones at, xii. Aberdeen, 1077 Ruchhill plantations, viii Stirling, 147 Ruchill water, x. Perth, 580 Ruchummon, slate quarry of, x. Perth, 166 Rude well, the, ii. Haddington, 56 Rue, freestone at, iv. Dumfries, 555 Ruesholm colliery, v. Ayr, 232 Ruggy hill and market, xv. Caithness, 78 Rugh hill, viii. StirUng, 140 Ruid altar, the, vi. Lanark, 15 Ruisky forest, xiv. Inverness, 39, 42— quarrv, 42 Rule witer, iii. Roxburgh, 208, 209, 211, 280, 281, 426, 228 Rullion green, battle of, i. Edinburgh, 113, 315 Rum island, xiv. Inverness, 145, 148, 150, 152— house, 152 Rumbling budg^fe, \.Vv«, tl. ^«Scw^^^'^,^^'^> 1005, \^\^ CXXIV OEKERAL Iia)EX. Rumbling bridge, the, viii. Stirling, 176 Rumbling bum, the, v. Ayr, 667 Riunbling well, iv. Kirkcudbright, .203 Rumford colliery, v. Ayr, 668 Rumlie bum, xii. Aberdeen, 11 05 Rumsdale, district of^ xy. Caithness, 79 Runahaorine point, viL Argyle, 377 Ru Rea head, xiv. Roes^ 92 Rusco tower, ruins of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 378— house, 382 Rusdale, strath of, xiv. Ross, 263 Rusepol hill, vii Argyle, 1 24 Rusky house and loch, x. Perth, 1096, 1097 Russell, spinning mills of, ix. Fife, 573 Russness hill, xv. Shetland, 103 Rutha Benachain point, xiv. iDvemess, 240 Rutha Bhomiskittaig head, xiv. Inver- ness, 240 Rutha Chiumleith head, xiv. Invemees, 240 Rutha-ghara-fada point, xiv. Inverness, 240 Ruthahuinish point, xiv. Inveroeas, 240 Rutherford inn and well, iii. Peebles, 156, 157 Rutherford, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 1 1 8, 119 Rutherford's witnesses, stones called, iv. Kirkcudbright, 380 Rutherglen, parish of, vi. Lanark, 373 — town, I*. 386, 388— castle, 374 Ruthi goe, xv. Caithness, 118 Ruthrie, daugh of, xiii. Banff, 1 1 1 — linn, 114 Ruthven bleachfield, x. Perth, 1032, 1034 —castle, 1030— printficld, 1035— vil- lage, 1036— water, 285, 298 Ruthven, parish of, xi. Forfar, 413 — castle, 415 — house, 416 Ruthven barracks, ruins oli xiv. Inverness, 71 — castle, 67, 71 — loch, 515 Ruth well parish of, iv. Dumfries, 218— Runic monimient at, 221 — village, 234 Rutton loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 286 Ryan loch, iv. Wigton, 80, 81, 92, 95, 102 Rye water, v. Ayr, 212, 790 Rycdale house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 llye hill, tradition regarding, iv. Dumfries, •248 Ryehill collier}', vi. Lanark, 724 Kyesholm, v. Ayr, 790 Rynie loch, xv. Sutherland, 216 Hysay isle, xv. Orkney, 78 Siibbath well, xiii. Elgin, 62 Sabhalmhoir hill, xv. Sutherland, 119 Sacel, ironstone at, vii. Renfrew, 153 Saddell castle, ruins of, vii. Argyle, 448 — monastery, ruins and historv of, 445 — water, 438 Saddell and Skipness, united parishes of, vii. Argvle, 436 Saddleback hill, iv. IXimftiw, \^4 St Abb^ head, iL Berwick, 279, 281, 363 —nunnery, 281 St Adamannan^ church, ruins of, xiL Aberdeen, 593 St Adrian's church, ruins o^ ix. Fife, 612 St Andrew's hill, xii Aberdeen, 426 - St Andrews, parish and town of, ix. Fife, 449 — castle, ruins and historj of, 458, 467 St Andrew's church, Dunfermline, ix. Fife, 897 St AndrewVi church, Dundee, xi Forfiur, 19,42 St Andrewli church, &c. Edinburgh, L Edinburgh, 665 St Andrew's church, Gla«gow, vL Lanark, 209 St Andrews, parish of, xv. Orkney, 169 St Andrew'bchurch, Peebles, iii. Peebles, 6 St Andrew's church, &c. Greenock, viL Renfrew, 456 St Andrewls hill, xv. Shetland, 7 St Andrews Lhanbryd, parish of^ xiii. Elgin, 29 St Ann's bleachfield, ix. Fife, 527 St Ann'b chapel, x. Perth, 66 St Ann's bridge, bacon ciuring at, iv. Dum- fries, 163 i St Ann's, carpet manufactory of^ i. Edin- burgh, 334 St Anthonv's chapel and hermitage, i. Edinburgh, 620, 657— well, 658 St Apolonarius' chapel, ruins of, xii. Aberdeen, 682 St Arnold's kirk, ruins of, xi. Kincardine, 314 St Arnold's seat, hill of, xl Forfar, 198 St Amty's kill, ruins of, xi. Kincardine, 314 St Asaph's chapel, ruins of, xiv. Invei^ ncss, 305 — well, ib. St Aula's church, xiv. Ross, 115, 126 St Baldred's boat and cradle, ii. Hadding- ton, 38 St Barr's chapel, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 206 St Bathan's, see Yester St Bathan's, parish of, ii. Berwick, 1 05 — church, 108 — copper ore found at, 106 — nunner)', 107 — well, 109 St Bennet's church, ruins of, ix. Fife, 223 St Bennet's chapel and well, xiv. Ross, 15 St Bernard's church, I Edinburgh, 665 — well, 621 St Blanc's hill, v. Bute, 83, 84— chapel, ruins of, 86 St Boniface's chapels, mins of, xiv. Ross, 352 St Boswell's or Lessudden, parish of, iii. Roxburgh, 104 — bum, 105 — green, 106 — fair, 1 1 2 — village, ruins of, 110 St Bricedale house, ix. Fife, 749 ^\. \?»\\^%*'i iiciWN^wt^ Kilmorie, v. Bute, 54 '^nN. '^TV^^''^ Oc«0^^^ '^^'CtNR^KS ^ N .^WXft , \^^ OENEBAL INDEX. cxxv St Bride^ring, a Druidical circle, xi. For- far, 546 St Bride's chapel, ruinB of, xiv. Inverness, 305 St Bride's spring, Duns3rTe, yL Lanark, 66 St Bride's, ancient pariah of, iii. Perth, 36 —well, 38 St Bride's well, x. Perth, 426 St Bride's bum, Kilbarchan, vii. Renfrew, 354 — chapel, ruins of, 366 St Bride's church, Kirkcolm, iy. Wigton, 111 St Bridget's chapel and well, Beath, v. Ayr, 581 St Bridgets chapel, Lewis, ruins of, xiv. Ross, 145 St Bryde, see St Bride St Calmag'S, Druidical remains at, v. Bute, 1 03 — chapel, ruins of, *6. St Camac's chapel, ruins of,xii Aberdeen, 993 St Catherine of Sienna, monastery of, i. Edinburgh, 657 St Catherine's well, Dalzell, vi. Lanark, 445 St Catherine's house, Liberton, i. Edin- burgh, 1 1 — chapel, ruins of, 7 — petro- leimi well, 3, 5 St Catherine's church, Penicuick, ruins of, i. Edinburgh, 29 St Catherine's chapel, Perth, x. Perth, 66 St Catherine's church, ruins of, viL Ar- gyle, 429 St Christopher's chapel, Dumfries, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 1 1 St Ciran's church, xv. Caithness, 74 St Clement's well, xiv. Inverness, 306 St Coain's chapel, ruins o^ xiv. Inverness, 305 St Coivin'S church, ruins of, vii. Aigyle, 429 St Collum's church, Lewis, xiv. Ross, 115, 126 St Cohne house, ix. Fife, 188 St Colm's chapel, xii. Aberdeen, 1029 St Colm's, ancient parish of, xv. Orkney, 85 St Columba isle, xiv. Inverness, 258 — loch, 246 St Columba's chapel, xv. Caithness, 74 St Comb's, village of, xii Aberdeen, 216, 229 St Conal lie's stone, vii. Renfrew, 128 St Congan, hospital of, xii. Aberdeen, 988 St Connel's tomb, iv. Dumfries, 316 St Coomb's kirk, ruins of, xv. Caithness, 61 St Cormaig's church, ruins of, vii. Argyle, 635 St Cowsland's chapel, xi. For&r, 152 St Cowstan's church, ruins of^ xiv. Ross, 115,126 St Cruz, ruins of church of, xv. Shetland, 40 StCuthbert^ church, &c. Edinbuxgfa, i. Edinburgh, 664, 747 St Cuthbert's church, Prestwick, v. Ayr, 169 St Cuthbert's chapel, Wick, xv. Caithness, 160 St Cuthbert's cottage, iv. Kirkcudbright, 25 St Cyrus or Ecclesgreig, pariah o^ xl Kin- cardine, 269 St David's church, Dundee, xi. For&r, 18, 42 St David's church, Glasgow, vi Lanark, 209 St David's church, Kirkintilloch, viii. Dimbarton, 206 — ^[uoad sacra parish of, 208 St David's, harboiur and village of, ix. Fife, 183, 184, 188 St David's, village of, x. Perth, 75 St Dennis' church, ruins of, ix. Fife, 134 St Dorothy's chapel, ruins of, xiv. Inver- ness, 457 St Dunstan's well, iii Roxburgh, 61 St Duthac's chapel and well, xiv. Ross, 15 St Duthec'S loch, xiv. Ross, 181 St Duthec'S kirk, xv. Caithness, 160 St Duthus' chapel and sanctuary, xiv. Ross, 287— church, 288 Saintear loch, xv. Orkney, 118 St Enoch's church, vi Lanark, 107 — hall, 784 St Eunon's chapel, ruins of, xiii Elgin, 87 St Evox, see St Quivox St Fergus, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 185 St Fergus, suppressed parish of, xv. Caith- ness, 68 St Fillan'S pool and chapel, x. Perth, 1088— village, 590— games, 586 St Finan isle, vii. Argyle, 123 St Finian'S chapel, ruins of, iv. Wigton, 61 St Ford links, ix. Fife, 325 St Fort hill, ix. Fife, 506— house, 508, 509— property, 507 St Francis' chapel, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 305 St George's church, &c. Edinburgh, i Edinburgh, 665— chapel, 667 St George's hospital, x. Perth, 993 St George's parish, Paisley, vii. Renfrew, 226, 237 St Germains collieries, ii. Haddington, 176, 288 — house, 293 — plantations, 283 St Germans loch, viii. Dunbarton, 37 St Giles' church, Edinburgh, i. Edinburah, - 658 St Glass' well, ix. Fife, 194 St Gordianls tower, ruins of, iii. Peebles, 116 St HeleivfiYicw»ft,"m,'^KO&tvN»^'5»^i5k CXXVl GBNE&AL INDEX. St Helena well, Maybole, v. Ayr, 866 St Helen'ft well, Melrose, ilL Roxburgh, 61 St Hillary's kirk, ruins of, xv. Shetland, 25 St Inan^ chair and well, v. Ayr, 577 St James* chapel, i. Edinburgh, 667 St Jame8\ qwxzd sacra parish of, xi. For- fer, 697, 701 St James* fair, xi. Kincardine, 308 St James* well, xi. Kincardine, 28 St James* chapel, Perth, x. Perth, 66 St James*, suppressed parish of, iiL Rox- burgh, 127, 308 — church and green, 317 Sfe John's church, Ayr, v. Ajrr, 34 St John's church, Edinburgh, i. Edin- burgh, 665 — chapels, 657, 666 St John*s quoad aacra parish, Leith, I Edinburgh, 778 St JohnVi chapel, Lewis, ruins of, xiv. Ross, 145 St John*s chapel. Inch, ruins ol, iv. Wig- ton, 88 St John*B church, Montrose, ti, For&r, 282 St John*8 close, xii. Aberdeen, 447 St John*B head, xv. Caithness, 22— char pel on, 25 St John's hill, Bedrule, iii. Roxburgh, 283 St John*8 hill, Kinness, xL Kincardine, 310— cairn on, 315 St John*8 kirk, vi. Lanark, 874 St John's loch, Dunnet, xv. Caithness, 36, 38 St John's town of Dairy, village of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 371 St John's vale, xiii. Elgin, 179 St John's well, Balmerino, ix. Fife, 580 St John's well, Bellic, xiii. Elgin, 116 St John's well, Deskford, xiii. Banff, 68 St John's well, Falkland, ix. Fife, 938 St John's well, Fyvie, xii. Aberdeen, 317 St John's well, Marykirk, xi. Kincardine, 299 St John's well, Spott, ii. Haddington, 7 1 St John's well, Torphichen, ii. Linb'th- gow, 36 St Johnls well, Turriff, xii. Aberdeen, 983 St Kenneth's chapel, ruins of, xiv. Inver- ness, 426 St Kessaig hill, x. Perth, 355 St Killen's chapel, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 426 St Laurence, parish of, see Slamanan St Lawrence bay, vii. Renfrew, 425 St Lawrence's chapel, x. Perth, 65 St Lawrence house, village of, ii. Hadding- ton, 4 St Lawrence's well, Morebattle, iii. Kox- ! buigh, 454 ( .St Lawrence*8 well, Ravnc, xii. Wjet^eei^ 424 St LawTence*8 well, Slamanan, viiL Stir, ling, 273 St Leonard*s, chapel at, ii. Berwick, 6 St Leonard*B chapel, Ayr, v. Ayr, 37 St Leonard'^ chapel, Lanark, vi Lanark, 15 St Leonard'^ chapel, Perth, x. Perth, 65 St Lconardls church, Lewis, xiv. IUnb» 115 St Leonard's college, St Andrews, ix. Fife, 487 St Leonard*B hospital, Dunfermline, ix. Fife, 904 St Leonardo hospital, Peebles, iii. Peebles, 8 St Leonard*li hospital and nunnery, Perth, X. Perth, 65 St Leonard'^ paper mill, i. Edinburgh, 608, 609— idllage, 609 St Leonard's, parish of, ix. Fife, 497 St Leonard'^ tower, ruins of, ix. Fife, 808 — spinning mills, 810, 813 St Luke^ fkir, vi Lanark, 396 St Machar, cathedral of, xiL Aberdeen, 1078 St Machute*B church, iv. Wigton, 6 St Maddan*B chapel, xv. CaiUmess, 25 St Madoes, parish of, x. Perth, 607 St Magdalenels chapel and nunnery, x. Perth, 65— hiU, 3, 5 St M8gdalene*B chapel, ruins of, xv. Ork- ney, 141 St Magnus' cathedral, xv. Orkney, 3 St Magnus' bay, xv. Shetland, 71, 101 — chapel, ruins of, 73 St Mark's well, xii. Aberdeen, 873 St Maree's well, xiv. Ross, 92 St Margaret's hope, ii. Linlithgow, 7— bayof, ix. Fife, 231,237 St Margaret's hope, village of, xv. Orknev, 195 St Margaret's well, vi. Lanark, 445 St Marnock's mill, v. Ayr, 550 St Martin's chapel, ruins of, ii. Hadding- ton, 14 St Martin'^ chapel, xv. Caithness, 160 St Martin's church, ruins of, xiv. Ross, 38— load ore at, 42 St Martins and Cambusmichael, united parishes of, x. Perth, 873 St Mary Magdalene hospital, i. Edinburgh, 657 St Mar}' in the fields, church of, i. Edin- burgh, 656 St Mary of the Lowes, kirk of, iii. Sel- kirk, 29 — burial gtound, 36, 46 St Mary of Placentia, chapel of, i. Edin- burgh, 657 St Mary's, ancient parish of, xiv. Inver- ne88,*237 St Mary's, suppressed parish of, xv. Ork- ney, 191 St Marj's bum, ix. Fife, 1, 2 — chapel GENERAL INDEX. CXXV 11 St Mary^ church, Banff, nuiui of, xiii. Banff, 27 St Mary's church, Cullen, xiii. Banff; 326 St Mary*B church, Diindee, xl Forfar, 41 St Mary*s chapel, Diinlop, v. Ayr, 294 St Mary*8 church, &c. Edinburgh, I Edin- burgh, 665--chapel, 657 St Mary's church, Kilfinichen, ruins of, vii. Argyle, 331 St Mary's chapel, Lewis, ruins of, xiv. Ross, 145 St Mary's church, Rothesay, ruins of; v. Bute, J 03 St Mary's chapel, &c Stirling, viii. Stii^ luig, 425 St Mary's church. Stow, ruins of, i. Edin- bmgh, 409 St Mary'ii chapel, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 305 St Mary's college, St Andrews, ix. Fife, 488 St Mary's isle, priory of, iv. Kirkcud- bright, 22 — house, 25 St Mary'ii kirk, Wick, xv. Caithness, 160 St Mary's loch, iii Peebles, 167, Selkirk, 30, 36, 60 St Mary's well, Cul8almond,xiL Aberdeen, 731 St Mary's well. Lady kirk, ii Berwick. 182 St Mary's well, Melrose, iii Roxburgh, 61 St Mary's well. Tain, xiv. Ross, 283 St Mathew's well, i. Edinburgh, 338 St Medan's cave, iv. Wigton, 208 St Methven's chapel, ruins of, x. Perth, 255 St Michael's bog and well, vL Lanark, 517 St Michael 8 church, Arran, ruins of, v. Bute, 25 St Michael's church, Cupar, ruins of, ix. Fife, 5 St Michael's chapel, Dumfries, iv. Dum- fries, 5 — burial place of Bums at, 6, 1 3 —church, 13 St Michael's church, Inveresk, i Edin- burgh, 270 St Michaers church, Kelso, iii Roxburgh, 308 St Michael's chapel, Row, ruins of; viiL Dunbarton, 75 St Michael's well, xii. Aberdeen, 731 St Michael's weU, xiii. Elgin, 196 St Minin's chapel, ix. Fife, 966 St Miran'S chapel, vii. Renfrew, 212, 217 St Mirren's factory, vii. Renfrew, 274 St Mirron^s well, viii Stirling, 147 St Molach, battle of; xiii Banff, 104 St Molios, remains at, v. Bute, 24 St Monans, parish of, ix. Fife, 337— cell, 350, 966~vnhige, 338, 344, 347 St Mugging seat, ix. Fife, 601 St Munde isle, vii Argyle, 223 St Mungo, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 203— church, 209 St Mungo'fe chapel, ruins o^ z. Perth, 290 St Mungo's hill, xii. Aberdeen, 1037 St Mungo's isle, ruins of chapel at, xiv. Inverness, 426 St Mungo's shrine, vi. Lanark, 107 St Mungo's well, i. Edinburgh, 29, 545 St Murdoeh^ chapel, xi Forfar, 241,491 St Murray's, cairn at, v. Ayr, 366 — quarry of, 352 St Nethan, church of, vi. Lanark, 608 St Nicholas' chapel, Dirleton, ii Had- dington, 210 St Nicholas' church, Lanark, vi Lanark, 14 St Nicholas' chapel, Leith, i Edinburgh, 766 St Nicholas' church, Prestwick, v. Ayr, 169 St Nicholas' chapel, Yester, ii. Hadding- ton, 169 St Nicholas' hospital, Boharm, xiii Banff, 365 St Nicholas' hospital, Glasgow, vi Lanark, 106 St Nicholas, parish of, see Aberdeen St NinianVi bay, Bute, v. Bute, 96 St Ninians, chaplainry of; xii Aberdeen, 328 St Ninian's chapel, Edinburgh, i Edinr burgh, 657 St Ninian's chapel. Loth, ruins of, xv. Sutherland, 201 St Ninian's chapel, Penninghame, ruins of, iv. Wigton, 176 St Ninian'b chapel, &c St Vigeans, xi. For&r, 495 St Ninian'ii church, ruins of, vii Argyle, 429 St Nim'an's chapel, Stirling, ruins of, viii. Stirling, 426 St Ninian's, chapel at, Urquhart, xiv. In- verness, 45 St Ninian^ chapel, Wick, xv. Caithness, 160 St NinianiB hospital, vi Lanark, 688 St Ninian's isle, xv. Shetland, 94 St Ninians, parish o^ viii. Stirling, SOS- village, 326, 333— well, 323 St Ninian's point, chapel at, v. Bute, 103 St Ninian's shrine, iv. Kirkcudbright, 132 St Ninianls spring, vi Lanark, 809 St Ola, annexed parish of; xv. Orkney, 1 St Oran's church, ruins of, vii Argyle, 333 St Orland'te stone, xi. Forfar, 345 St Oswald's chapel, ruins o^ vi Lanark, 582 St Oyne's, mound of, xii. Aberdeen, 294 St Palladius' chapel, ruins of, xi. Kincar- dine, 66— well, 67 St Patrick's chapel, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 83 St Patrick'^ chapel and well, x. Perth, 318 St Patrick's well, vi Lanark, 445 St Paul's cha^U^lAMte«st^^^*'*^^^^«^ CXXVUl QBKB&AL IKDBX. St Paul'fe chapel, x. Perth, 66— -remains found at, 61 St Paul^ well, xii. Aberdeen, 317 St Peters, suppressed parish ol^ xv. Ork- ney, 191 St PeteriB chapel, Birsay, xv. Orkney, 151 St Peter*s chapel, HaUdrk, rUins of, xv. Caithness, 74 St PeteriB chapel. Lady, ruins of, xv. Ork- ney, 141 St Peter^s chapel, Lewis, ruins of^ xiv. Ross, 145 St Peter's chapel, Montrose, xi. For&r« 282 St Peter's well, xii Aberdeen, 317 St PeteriB well, Mouswald, iv. Dumfries, 443 St Philip^ well, iii. Selkirk, 35 St Phillans, or Forgan, parish of, ix. Fife, 505 St Phink'te chapel, ruins of, X. Perth, 1188 St guerdon's well, iv. Kirkcudbright, 225 St Quivox, parish of, v. Ayr, 118 St Regulus' chapel and tower, ruins of, ix. Fife, 464 St Regulus' chapel, Cromarty, ruins of, xiv. Ross, 15 St RinganiB cave, iv. Wigton, 38 St Rock^ chapel, Paisley, ruins of, vil Renfrew, 209 St RoUox chemical works, vl Lanark, 163, 166 St Ronan'S club, iii Peebles, 31 St Roque's chapel, i Edinburgh, 657 St Roque's chapel, vi Lanark, 108 St Rufiis' priory and chapel, ix. Fife, 964 St Rule's chapel, xii. Aberdeen, 328 St Salvator's college, ix. Fife, 487 — cha- pel, 502, 503— tower, 492 St Sebastian's chapel, xi. Forfar, 514 St SerfFs', suppressed parish of, x. Perth, 163 St Serfs house, ii. Haddington, 333 St Serfs' isle, ix. Kinross, 3, 31 — ruins on, 30, 33, 73 St Servanus' isle, ix. Kinross, 3, 31 St Skay'h chapel, ruins of, xi Forfar, 245 St Skeoch's, annexed parish of, xi For&r, 245 St Stephen's church, &c.i. Edinburgh, 665 St Tear's chapel, xv. Caithness, 133, Sutheriand, 201 St Teman's chapel, xi. Kincardine, 160 St Thomas*, suppressed parish of, xv. Caithness, 68 — ruins of chapel, 73 St Thomas', quoad sacra parish of, Green- ock, vii Renfrew, 456 St Thomas' chapel, Banff, ruins of, xiii Banff, 29 St Thomas' chapel, Kelso, ruins of, iii. Roxburgh, 308 St Thomas' church, Leith, i Edinburgh, 779 8t Thomas' chaplainry, Kewtew, Vu.'R*?^- frew, 15 \ St Thomas' hospital, i Edinburgh, 657 St Tredwall'B chapel, ruins of, xy. Ork- ney, 117, 125 St Trullew'ii chapel, xv. Sutherland, 201 St Tustan'b chapel, ruins of^ xv. Caithnev, 25 St Tyr'^ chapel, maancre at, xy. Caith- ness, 133, Sutherland, 201 St Valley, cairn at, v. Ayr, 280 St Vey's chapel, ruins o^ v. Ayr, 272 St Vigeans, parish of^ xi Forfiir, 489 St Vildrin's well, viii Stirling, 102 St WilliamVi well, iii Roxbuigh, 61 Saintls isle, xv. Sutherland, 167 Saint's well, Fodderty, xiv. Ross, 246 Saint's well, Mamock, xiii Banff, 382 Saint's well, Nutholm, iv. Dumfries, 205 Salachie loch, xv. Sutherhmd, 25 Salanside tower, ruins o^ iii Roxbuigh, 274 Salcn, district o^ vii Aigyle, 357— har- bour, 230 — ^ruins of chapel at, 287 Saline, parish of, ix. Fife, 798— village* 799— hills, 830, viii Stirling, 2 Salisbury crags, i Edinbuigh, 615, 619 Salloch glen, vii Aigyle, 474 Sallysbiurgh, village of, vi Lanark, 631 Salmon leap fall, the, iii. Roxbuigh, 192 Saltbum, village of, xiv. Ross, 272 Saltcoats, town^ and harbour <^ ▼. Ayr, 192, 198, 201, 440, 454, 459,460 Saltcoats house, ruins oi^ ii Haddington, 209— .property, 44 Salt greens of Tjrnninghame, the, ii. Had- dington, 30 Salthouse head, xii. Aberdeen, 345 — quarry, 364 Salton, parish of^ ii Haddington, 106 — bum, 2, 106, 107, 359— hall and vil- lage, 108, 116,121,126— camp at, 115 Saltpans cave, xv. Orkney, 14 Saltpans, village of, vii Argyle, 465 Salt stones, the, xiii Banff, 221 Samphrcy isle, xv. Shetland, 82 Samson'^ ribs, i Edinburgh, 620 Samuelston plantations, &c ii Hadding- ton, 177— ullage, 186, 193 Sand loch, xii. Aberdeen, 591 Sand loch, the, iv. Dumfries, 3 Sand bay, xv. Shetland, 23 — trees at, 108 — burial ground, 113 — church, 113 — house, 115 — school, 136 — voe, 100 Sand of Brecon voe, xv. Shetland, 24 Sanda isle, vii. Argyle, 414 Sanday isle, xv. Orkney, 85, 133, 134 — sound, 86 Sandaysand isthmus, xv. Orkney, 169 Sandecl bay, iv. Wigton, 133 Sandeland isle, vii. Aigj'le, 301 Sandend village and limeworks, xiii. Banff, 190, 191 Sanderay isle, xiv. Inverness, 200 ^tAS^qV^ Vv\\3i^'SLv. Orkney, 42 aENBRAL INDEX. CXXIX Sandhaven, village and harbour of, xii. Aberdeen, 399 Sandhead bay, iv. Wigton, 162 — village, 164 SandhilU of Cullen, xiil Elgin, 217 Sandhills of Stevenston, v. Ayr, 426 Sand Inch iale, vii Renfrew, 5 Sandlaw, property of^ xiii. Banff, 146 — remains found at, 161 Sandlodge, copper ore at, xv. Shetland, 93 Sandness, district of, xv. Shetland, 1 9 Sands of Nigg, the, xiv. Rois, 20, 301 Sandside bay, xv. Caithness, 14 — fishery, 19 — quarry at,. 15 Sandsound voe, xv. Shetland, 100 Sandsting and Aithsting, united parishes of, XV. Shetland, 97 Sandwich, village of, xiv. Ross, 1 36 Sand wick, parish of, xv. Orkney, 41 Sandwick, suppressed parish of, xv. Shet- land, 93 — bay, 38 — burial ground, 40 Sandwood water, xv. Sutherland, 88 Sandy bay, the, iv. Wigton, 1 32 Sandy goe, xv. Caithness, 118 Sandy hills, the, xiii. Elgin, 203 Sandy hills, the, vi. Lanark, 122 Sandy isle, the, xiv. Inverness, 145, 149 Sandy know, the, iii. Roxburgh, 141 Sandyford biun, viii. Stirling, 206 Sannox glen, v. Bute, 3 — quarry, 10 — water, 7 Sanquhar, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 297 — castle, ruins of, 305 — collieries, 298 — town, 305, 307, 309, 310 Sanquhar house, xiii. Elgin, 163, 167 Sarclet loch, xv. Caithness, 124 — village 153,157,158 Sark tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 490 — water, 263 Sarkshields quarry, iv. Dumfries, 284 Satumess point, iv. Kirkcudbright, 235 Sauchenford malt kiln, viii. Stirling, 333 Sauchenloan, mineral spring at, xii. Aber- deen, 730 Sauchie bum, ix. Fife, 195 Sauchie house, ruins of, viiL Stirling, 323 — plantations, 313, 314 Sauchie tower, ruins of, viii. Clackmannan, 126 Sauchiebog, village o^ vi. Lanark, 431 Sauchiebum, battle of, viii Stirling, 31 6 Sauchope, standing stone at, ix. F^fe, 948, 955 Sauchrie castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 365 Sauchur point, ix. Fife, 283 Saugfaton house, i. Edinburgh, 597 Savalmore hill, xv. Sutherland, 1 1 9 SaviUe house, xv. Orkney, 86, 87 Savoch bum, xii. Aberdeen, 704 Sax corpses, stones called, iv. Dumfries, 70 Saxon, ruins of forts at, vi. Lanark, 68 Saxa Vord hill, xv. Shetland, 37 Sayrs law, ii Berwick^ 94 Scaddens loch, xiv. Ross, 383 VOL. XV. Scaigh castle, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 318 Scair Caristina, the, vii. Argyle, 346 Scalloway castle, ruins of, xv. Shetland, 59 — village, ♦6. — voe, 68 Scalpa bay, xv. Orkney, 13— flow, 70 Scalpa isle, xiv. Invemess, 155-^ruins of church on, 305— harbour, 158— sound* 302 Scalpsie bay, v. Bute, 83, 96 Scamadale loch, vii. Argyle, 64 Scapa bay, xv. Orkney, 1 Scar house, xv. Orkney, 86 Scar sandbank, iv. Wigton, 102 Scar water, iv. Dumfries, 460, 461, 473, 499, 500, 501 Scaraben hill, xv. Caithness, 84, 87 Scarba isle, vii Argyle, 534 Scares of Cmden, the, xii Aberdeen, 977 Scar&kerry head, xv. Caithness, 35 — har- bour at, 46 Scarhill limeworks, ix. Kinross, 39 Scarlaw castle, remains at, ii. Berwick, 101 Scarmclet, property of, xv. Caithness, 114, 115 Scaraose head, xiii. Banff, 314 Scarp isle, xiv. Inverness, 155 Scarsburgh, remains found at, iii. Rox- burgh, 4— chapel, lO^amp at, 12 Scathe stone, the, ix. Fife, 97^ Scavaig bay, xiv. Inverness, 300 Schawls hospital, ii Haddington, 383 Schawpark house, viii. Clackmannan, 126 Schehallion, mount, x. Perth, 753 Schell hill, iii. Roxburgh, 448 Schivas house, xii. Aberdeen, 669 Schoolhill of Cupar, ix. Fife, 3, 5 Schurroch hill, xi. Forfar, 612, 613— re- mains on, 615 Scirrival point, xiv. Inverness, 199 Sciulm-a-charra hill, xiv. Ross, 404 Sclanders bum, viii Stirling, 1 1 5 Sclatecowcs quarry, xi. Kincardine, 226 Sclaty goe, xv. Caithness, 118 Scobbach house, xii Aberdeen, 995 Scoliescross inn, xi. Kincardine, 243 Scolpeg, cairn at, xiv. Inverness, 161 Scoltie hill, xi. Kincardine, 232, 324 Sconcer limeworks, xiv. Inverness, 222 Scone, parish of, x. Perth, 1043 — monas- terv, 1 049— palace, 1 060— village, 1 062, 1071, 1072 Scoonie, parish of, ix. Fife, 264 Scorraig, iron ore at, xiv. Ross, 76 Scotlandwell, village of, ix. Kinross, 31 — ruins of chapel at, 3S Scot*s hole, tradition regarding, iii. Rox- burgh, 118 Scotstown head, xii. Aberdeen, 1 88 — house, 1076 Scotstown plantations, xi. Forfar, 653 Scotstown house and property, vi. Ija- nark, 377 Scotstown house, vii. Renfrew, 2, 19 Scott monument, Edinburgh, i Edin- buT0v, 65^ T OEKBRAL IKDBX. ScoiUag bay, y. Bute, 88 Scour Choinich hill, vii. Aigyle, 124 Scour Dhonich hill, m Aigyle, 124 Scourie, district o^ xy. Sutherland, 119 — Danish remains at, 127 Scour-na-lapich hill, xiv. TnTemesm, 868 Scow Kyle, xr. Sutherland, 119, 121 Scraefield hill, xv. Shetland, 8 Scrape hill, iii. Peebles, HI— Roman re- mains on, 78 Screbhisbheinn hill, xv. Sutherland, 88 Scrishben hill, xv. Sutherland, 83 Scroulach hill, xii Aberdeen, 526 Scuddebuigh fort, ruins of, xiv. Invemev, 266 Sculomy bay, xv. Sutherland, 168 Scunt bum, xiv. Inverness, 1 56 Scur Eigg, the, xiv. Inverness, 145, 146, 150 Scurr hill, ix. Fife, 578, 581 Scurry rock, remains found at, iii Rox- burgh, 237 Scur-uran mount, xiv. Ross, 182 Scye loch, xv. Caithness, 1 15 Seabank of Stevenston, v. Ayr, 427, 429 Seabank house, v. Ayr, 440, 451 Seacliife house, ii. Haddington, 31 — whale found at, 334 Seafield house, v. Ayr, 8 Seafieid church, xiii. Banfl^ 347 Seafield bath^ L Edinburgh, 766 Seafield tower, ruins of, ix. Fife, 810 Seaforth loch, xiv. Ross, 157, 159— lodge, 124, 126 Seagate of Irvine, the, v. Ayr, 620^ castle, 625 Seagreens harbour, xi. Kincardine, 271, 292 Sea loch of Stevenston, the, v. Ayr, 452 Seal cave, the, xiv. Rosa, 116 Seal iale, the, xv. Sutherland, 167 Sealg loch, the, xiv. Ross, 74 Seals* pool the, xiv. Ross, 20 Sea Mab hill, x. Perth, 301 Seamill, castlehill of; v. Ayr, 257, 258> Sea-mill of Musselburgh, the, i. Edin- burgh, 271 Seapark house, xiii. Elgin, 202, 206 Seartown of Cullen, xiii. Ban^ 325, 329, 342 Seat of Catan hill, v. Bute, 8.3, 84 Seaton house, xi. Forfiur, 497 Seaton hill, remains found at, ii. Had- dington, 184 Seedhill bridge, vii Renfrew, 277 — mills, 155— well, 147 Seedlay, see Sidlaw Seggie distillery, ix. Fifo, 226 Seggiecrook, plumbago at, xiii Banff; 217 Seggieden house, x. Perth, 1215 Seidlaw, see Sidlaw Seik of Dollar, the, viii Clackmannan, 76 Seil island, vii. Argyle, 71— loch, 64 Selibister, district of, xv. Orkney, 133 Selivoe, xv. Shetland, \00 I Selkirk, parish of, iii Selkirk, I— town, 8.7 Selkirkshire, ofaeenrations on, iii Srikiric, 79 Selma of Ossian, the, vii Argyle, 494 Semple house, vii. Renfrew, 199— pnn perty, 88 Seton church, ruins of, ii Haddii^g;toiit 291— <»stle, 284— house, 292— piJace, 283, 292 Setonhill, ironworks at, li. Haddingtoii* 176 — ^propertjr of, 181 Seuchan water, iv. Dumfries, 297 Seunta loch, xiv. Inverness, 245 Seven brethren, stones called, it. Dum- fries, 198 Seven grey stones, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 287 Sgiah, coal at, xiv. Roas, 250 Sgu]>chairie hill, x. PerUi, 529 Sgur-ghaibre hill, x. Perth, 529 Shadir bay, xiv. Ross, 142 — ^water, 145 Shaggie imter, x. Perth, 250, 262, 267 Shalent, tree at, v. Bute, 100 Shambelly house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 251 Shana, see Shuna Shandon castle, ruins of, viii Dnnbartoo, 75 — house, i6. Shandwick house, xiv. Ross^ 54— viUi^et 22, 27 — monumental stone at, 29 Shank point, scenery oi, i Edinburgh, 174 —house, 157, 175 Shankramuir lime quarries, vi Lanark, 402 Shankston loch, v. Ayr, 493 Shannaly mill, xi Forfiu*, 612 Shan nan hill, viii. Dunbaiton, 155 Sbanniwilly point, remains found at, ▼. Ayr, 272 Shannock hill, viii Clackmannan, 70 Shanter,farm of, v. Ayr, 784 Shantran hill, viii Dunbiuion, 161, 231 Shapinshay, island and parish of, xv. Ork- ney, 79, 196— standing stone of, 80 Shaw house, iv. Dumfries, 38 Shawfield, ruins of chapel at, v. Ayr, 37 Shawfield, property of, vi Lanark, 375 Shawhill house, v. Ayr, 610 Shawpark house, viii Clackmannan, 18, 43 Shawshill, iii Selkirk, 30— loch, 36, Rox- burgh, 270 — Pictish remains at, 444 Shaws water works, vii Renfrew, 432 Shawsburn colliery, vi. Lanark, 723 Shawtonhill, burial ground at, vi Lanark, 295 Sheader, remains found at, xiv. Inveniesi, 291 Shead Phoil, tradition regarding, xiv. In- verness, 171 Sheal bum, xii Aberdeen, 1105 Shealhouse inn, xiv. Ross, 173 Sheardale coUiery, viii Clackmannan, 82, 87--quarry, 83 Shearington, village o^ iv. Dumfries, 566 QENERAL INDEX. . CXXXL Shebster hill, ibrts on, xv. Caitfanen, 17 — ruins of chapel at, t&. Sheddocksley house, xil Aberdeen, 238 Shedog, tumulus at, v. Bute, 46 Shee water, x. Perth, 899, 904— clen, 199, 428, 785 Sheelagreen, plantations at, xil Aberdeen, 728 Sheens, origin of name of, i Edinburgh, 657 Sheep isle, vil Aigyle, 414 Sbeepford loch, vi. Lanark, 666 Sheil, glen, xiv. Ross, 182 — loch and water, ib, Sheilswood loch, iii. Roxburgh, 269 Shelky skeny, the, xt. Orkney, 103 Shell loch, xiv. Ross, 159 Shelleghan water, x. Perth, 252 Shelliva loch, xiv. Inverness, 195 Shelwick bay, xiv. Ross, 117 Sheraig glen, v. Bute, 4 Sheriff hall colliery, I Edinburgh, 560, 570, 575 Sheriffmuir, site of battle of, x. Perth, 1040 Sheriffmuir of Stobo, remains at, iii. Peebles, 123 SheriflTls auld haw, village of, v. Bute, 75 SheridHs pot, tradition regarding, xi. Kin- cardine, 281 Sherra'b know, the, iiL Selkirk, 45 Sherrobeg bridge, destruction o^ xiv. In- verness, 419 Sheshemich loch, x. Perth, 786 Shetland isles, general statistics of, xv. Shetland, 145 Shettleston colliery, vi. Lanark, 422 Shevock water, xii. Aberdeen, 635, 693, 728, 748, 749 Shewalton colliery, v. Ayr, 668 — house, 678 Shiach water, xi. Kincardine, 170 Shian house, x. Perth, 486 Shieldag, district of^ xiv. Ross, 99 — church, lOi, 104— village, 103 ShieldhiU house, vi. Lanark, 43 — planta- tions, 45 ShieldhiU, village of, xl Kincardine, 317 Shields bum, viii. Stirling, 239 Shields, property of, vi Lanark, 668— limestone at, 881, 882 Shiel loch, vii Argyle, 122— water, 124 Shiel loch, xiv. Inverness, 525 Shielhill, camp on, iv. Dumfries, 44 Shielhill colliery, viii. Stirling, 1 93 Shielhill of Kirriemuir, the, xi. Forfar, 160— house, 179 Shielhouse water, i v. Dumfries, 91 Shiells bum, ii Berwick, 200 Shin water, xiv. Ross, 282, 404, xv. Su- therland, 17, 215— loch, 58r, 215, 216 Shine ness, xv. Sutherland, 82 Shineach loch, vii. Argyle, 678 Shinnel water, iv. Dumfries, 460, 461, 473 Shinnelfaead, quarry at, iv. Dumfries, 474 Ship loch, xiv. Ross, 185 Shira glen, vii. Ar^le, 2, 6 — water, 1, 6 ShirvB colliery, viii. Dunbarton, 175, 176^ ^property, 193 Shinra hamlet, xv. Shetland, 95 Shisken, caves at, v. Bute, 41 Shith, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 119 Shockie water, x. Perth, 168, 164, 199, 424, 427 Shogle, Danish camp at, xiii. Elgin, 86 Shott, stone coffin found at, vi. Lanark, 320— bum, 624 Shotts, parish of, vL Lanark, 625— col- lieries, i5.— ironworks, 611,825, 62^, 630— foundery, 631— village, 631 Shoughends hills, v. Bute, 69 Shuna castle, ruins of, viL Axgyle, 241 — island, 71, 130— sound, 73, 228 Shurery, Ben,xv. Caithness, 13'-loch, 15 Shutterflat, barony o^ viu Renfrew, 308 Si*-ain-na-Rapaicfa hill, viL Argyle, 165 Sixain sluagh hill, vii. Argyle, 105 Sianta loch, xiv. Inverness, 245 Sibbaldbee, annexed parish of, iv. Dum- fries, 170 — church, ruins o^ 183 Sibster house, xv. Caithness, 142 Siccar point,ii. Berwick, 292, 293, 295,297 Sichaillein hill, x. Perth, 560 Side hill, camp on, iii. Roxbui^, 144 Sidera &rm, xv. Sutherland, 9— hill, 212 Sidlaw hills, x. Perth, 2, 11, 32,405,406, 934, 1162, 1167, xi Forfar, 206, 338, 351, 378, 383, 456, 560, 641, 648, 703, Kincardine, 72 Sight hill, remains at, viii Stirling, 210 Signet Library, i Edinbuigh, 645 Siller wells, vi Lanark, 846, 847 Sillyeam hill, xiii BanH^ 214 Sillyflat £irm, xi. Kincardine, 21 Silver castle, ancient camp called, x. Perth, 1064 Silver rock, the, xv. Sutherland, 24, 26 Silver well, the, xii. Aberdeen, 983 Silverbank, village of, vi Lanark, 431 SUverbit hall, iii Roxbuigh, 381 Silvercraigs house, vi Lanark, 116 SilverhiUoch loch, xii. Aberdeen, 298 Silvermine' limeworks, ii Linlithgow, 154 Silverton hill, vi Lanark, 255 — property, 268 Simprim, annexed parish of, ii Berwick, 187— property, 192— quarry, 202 Simpsonland, coal at, vi Lanark, 258 Sinavey spring, xi. Forfar, 55 Sinclair bay and castle, xv. Caithness, 1 1 9, 141 Sinclair's aisle, the, xv. Caithness, 142 Sinclairtown, village of,ix. Fife, 135, 139 Sinnahard chapel, ruins of, xii Aberdeen, 417 Sir Thomas the Rhymer'ii castle, ruins of, ii. Berwick, 21 Sisterpath, the,ii. Berwick, 299— fiirm of, 225 -c. CILXXU aSNEBAL INDEX. Sith Chaillm hiU, x. Perth, 529 Sits of Stevenston, the, v. Ayr, 427 Ska isle, xv. Shetland, 38 Skae h^, xv. Orkney, 1 16 Skail bay, xv. Orkney, 193 Skaill loch, xv. Orkney, 46, 51 Skailwick loch, xv. Orkney, 118 SkateraH', stone coffins found at, ii. Had- dington, 243— limeworks, 245 Skaterigg collieries, vii. Renfrew, 8 Skavaig bay, xiv. Inverness, 300 — loch, 296 Skeahill, xv. Orkney, 114 Skeen loch, iv. DumfHes, 1 07 Skeir-nam-maol rocks, xiv. Inverness, 253 Skeith castle, ruins of, xiii. Banff, 68 Skeith stone, the, ix. Fife, 976 Skelbo house, rains of, xv. Sutherland, 4, 6 Skeld, burial ground at, xv. Shetland, 110 — voe, JOO Skeldaquoy point, xv. Orkney, 226 Skcldon castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 281 — house, 275, 277 — mineral spring at, 274 — scenery of, 8 Skelf hill, iii. Roxburgh, 427— British camp on, 433 Skellater house, xii. Aberdeen, 547 Skellvton colliery, vi. Lanark, 723— quar- ry,* 725 Skelmorlie house and propertv, v. Ayr, 790, 799 Skeltimuir, limestone at, i. Edinburgh, 606 Skene, loch, iv. Dumfries, 107 Skene, loch, xi. Kincardine, 232 Skene, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 1096 — house, 1097— loch, 1096 Skeoch hill, v. Ayr, 159 Skeok, ruins of chapel at, viii. Stirling, 323 Skemish point, xiv. Inverness, 241 Skerray, school at, xv. Sutherland, 182 Skerries, the Pentlund, xv. Orkney, 72, 191 Skerries isles, xv. Shetland, 53 — church, 55 Skerries isles, xv. Sutherland, 218 Skerries rocks, xiii. Elgin, 147 Skerrington collieries, v. Ayr, 606 Skerryvore lighthouse, vii. Argyle, 198 Sketraw, village of, xi. Kincardine, 262 Skeulan tree and well, xii. Aberdeen, 1060 Skew loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 292 Skiach loch, x. Perth, 1005 Skiack burn, xiv. Ross, 315 Skibba goe, xv. Orkney, 150 Skibo cjistle, ruins of, xv. Sutherland, 6— hills, 2 — improvements at, 4 Skilmony hill, xii. Aberdeen, 96^ Skimmer hills, ii. Haddington, 106 Skinidean, limestone at, xiv. Inverness, 302 Skinnet, suppressed parish of, xv. Caith- ness, 68 — ruins of chapel at, 73 Skinsdale, xv. Sutherland, 135 Skipness, annexe<\ parish of, \\\. At^yle, 436— tattle, ruins of, 44ft— vc%\.eT, \'i^ Skipport, loch, xiv. Invemeas, 183, 195 Skirling, pari^ of, iii. Peebles, 99— cas- tle, ruins of, 101 Skirsa head, xv. Caithnein, 22 Skitten, battle at, xv. Caithneas, 115 Skreel hill, iv. Kirkcudbright, 1 45, 355 Sku Kyle, xv. Sutherland, 119, 121 Skye, island of, xiv. Inverness, 218, 237, 287, 295, 317, 322 Skyre bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 374 Slack burn, iv. Kirkcudbright, 146 Slack of Bimie, the, xL Kincardine, 74 Slacks of Tipperty, the, xiii. Banff, 174 Slade quarry, xi. Forfar, 354 Slaginnan cave, xii. Elgin, 185 Slain men's lee, the, iii. Selkirk, 3 Slains, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 589^ castle, ruins of, 593 Slains hill, xi. Kincardine, 310 Slam loch, xv. Sutherland, 169 Slamanan, parish of, viiL Stirling, 273— railway, 207, 212, 279 Slap, mineral spring at, xii. Aberdeen, 983 Slaphouse, ruins of chapel at, v. Ayr, 37 Slappen loch, xiv. InveraesB, 308 * Slate, see Sleat Slate hill of CulsahnoDd, the, xii. Aber- deen, 729 Slateford, village of, i. Edinburgh, 121 Slateford or Edasell, village of, xi. Forfiu', 624 Slaughter house, Kilsvth, viii. Stirling 148 Sleat, parish of, xiv. Inveraeaa, 317 — point, lb. — sound, 128 Sleitill loch, xv. Caithness, 15 Sleoch, battle of, xii. Aberdeen, 1037 Sliabhach mount, xiv. Ross, 91 Sliab nan carachan, the, v. Bute, 52 Sliach, camp at, xii. Aberdeen, 300 Slickly bum, xv. Caithness, 123 Sliddcry, ruins of fort at, v. Bute, 52 Slighshouses, property of, ii. Berwick, 117 Sligichan, loch, xiv. Inverness, 218, 219 Sliobgoil hill, vii. Argjie, 408 Slioch, mount, xiv. Ross, 91 Slipperfield loch, iii. Peebles, 156 Slisbeg valley, x. Perth, 686 Slitrig water, iii. Roxburgh, 76, 209, 210, 377, 379, 380, 428 Sloe of Dess, the, xii. Aberdeen, 1049 Sloch-a-chorrv,cave called, xiv. Inverness, 161 Slochd a' nihadaidh rock, xiv. Inverness, 246 Slocmuic pass, xiii. Elgin, 1 24 Slogan a glassin, the, iv. Wigton, 131 Slougnagarrv, rocks at, iv. Wigton, 104, 106 Sloy loch, viii. Dunbarton, 234 Slug of Achrannie, the, xi. Forfar, 423, 637 Slug, road, the, xi. Kincardine, 175 S\\\^ig\xv Vc\^^'5> VAX. "^c^'go^^ \'?>4. \ QSNEBAL IKDBX. CXXXlll Sluie headland, xiiL Elgin, 217 — vale, 179 — salmon fisheries, 189 Smailholm, parish o£^ iii. Roxburgh, 140 ^tower, ruins of, 141 Smallholm, village of, iv. Dumfries, 387 Small Isles, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 145 Smeaton house, ii. Haddington, 22 Smithfield, quarry at, xi. Forfar, 486 Smith's croft, the, iv. Wigton, 167 Smith's institution, Ayr, v. Ayr, 77 Smithston, Roman road at, v. Ayr, 278 — house, 757 Smithston, basaltic columns at, viii. Dun- barton, 182 Smithstowne castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 365 Smithy hill, tradition regarding, iii. Rox- burgh, 227 Smithyhaugh, village of, x. Perth, 290, 293 Smo cave, xv. Sutherland, 84 — harbour, 101 Smorale, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 214 Smyllum house, vi. Lanark, 1 8 Snab collieries, ii. Linlithgow, 122 Snabb quarry, iv. Dumfries, 284 Snabs of Drimmie, x. Perth, 406 Snadon hill, xi. Kincardine, 270 Snaigow house, x. Perth, 676 Snar bum, vi. Lanark, 498, 499 — castle, ruins of, 502 — lead mine, 510 Snawburgh, camp at, xv. Shetland, 25 Sneddon bridge, vii. Renfrew, 277 Snelsetter house, xv. Orkney, 74 Snickert knees hill, vi. Lanark, 81 1 Snipe loch, v. Ayr, 274, 650 Snizort, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 287 — loch, 237, 287, 289— water, ruins at, 290 Snook, remains of fort at, iL Berwick, 207 Snowdon, improvement of, ii Haddington, 97 Snusgar castle, ruins of, xv. Orkney, 53 Soay isle, viL Aigyle, 197, 198, xiv. Inver- ness, 296 Soccathmaam-an-Tuirc hill, xiv. Ro^ 171 Soccoth hills, xif. Aberdeen, 415, 1013 Sod kirk, the, xi. Kincardine, 265 Softlaw farm, iii. Roxburgh, 238, 239 Solebum bav, iv. Wigton, 123 — water, 125 Solway frith, iv. Dumfries, 3, 218, 244, 246, 256, 259, 262, 349, 356, 518, Wigton, 23 Sommer, tumuli at, viil Dunbarton, 222 Sommerlee ironworks, vi. Lanark, 613, 618, 658— quarry, 648 Sommervillc castle, site of, vi. Lanark, 84 Sonachan house, vii. Argyle, 373 Sooty wells, cairn at, xi. Kincardine, 38 Sorbie, parish of, iv. Wigton, 22— castle, ruins of, ib. 29 — village, 33 Sorbytrees, Pictish remains at, iii> Rox- bui^h, 444 Som, parish of, v. Ayr, 126 — castle, ib. 133— village, 7, 131, 138, 143 Somhill, vill^ of, v. Ayr, 611, 614 Sorrysikemuir, cairns at, iv. Dumfries, 210 Soudain, loch, vii. Argyle, 302 Soules cross, v. Ayr, 541 Soulseat abbev, iv. Wigton, 87— loch, 82, 83 Sound, suppressed parish of, xv. Shetland, 59 Sound of Eriscay, xiv. Inverness, 193. Sound of Handa, xv. Sutherland, 120 Sound of Harris, xiv. Inverness, 159 Sound of Scalpay, xiv. Inverness, 302 Sound of Sleat, xiv. Inverness, 128 Sounding aisle, Paisley, vii. Renfrew, 212 Souterhouse quarry, vi. Lanark, 648 Southanan bum, v. Ayr, 246 — house, ruins o^ 249, 253— plantations, 792— sands, 244 South Arthurlie, fall at, Wi. Renfrew, 317— printfield, 329 Southbarr house, vii. Renfrew, 124 South bay, xv. Orkney, 104 South brae of Campsie, viiL Stirling, 235 South bridge of Edinburgh, i. Edinburgh, 645 South Calder water, vi. Lanark, 445, 608, 766, 771, 944 — Roman bridge over, 789 South church of Dundee, xi. Forfar, 41 South church of Paisley, vii. Renfrew, 227, 239 Southdean or Charters, parish of, iii. Rox- burgh, 98 South Devon water, viii. Clackmannan, 8 Southend, parish of, vii. Argyle, 413 Southend, district of, v. Bute, 47 South Esk water, l Edinburgh, 49, 68, 154, 174, 458, 607- iii. Peebles, 56, 76, 146 South Esk water, xi. Forfar, 110, 116, 123, 129, 130, 165, 198, 246, 254,292, 436,437,519,520 Southfield house, i. Edinburgh, 1 1 Southlield house, ix. Fife, 783 Southfield house, ii Haddington, 185, 192 — property, 181 — coins found at, 185 Southfield house and property, vii. Ren- frew, 521 Southfield, skirmish at, viii Stirling, 402 Southhall house, vii Argyle, 1 1 1 South Herbertshire, district of, viii. Stir- hng, 116 South Ingan hill, ix. Kinross, 39 South Kilruskin, spring at, v. Ayr, 246 South Kinrara, property of, xiv. Inverness, 86 South Kiscadale, remains found at, v. Bute, 23 South Knapdale, parish of, vii Argyle, 257 South law, see Sidlaw South Lcthan colliery, ix. Fife, 835 South lodge house, viii. Stirling, 402 Southmains, Deills dvke tit^ iv. Wv^-w^^ CXXXIV OSNSaAL IKDBX. South Medwin water, vL Lanark, 42, 52, 944 South Morir, district o^ viL Arsyle, 118, 120 South pariah, Greenock, vii. Renfrew, 455 South Queensferry, town of, u, Linlith- gow, 1 South Ronaldshay isle, xt. Orkney, 191 South Ronaldflhay and Burray, united pa- rishes of^ xv. Orkney, 191 South Sannox water, v. Bute, 7— Druidi- cal remains at, 23 South U^e water, xii. Aberdeen, 187 South Uist, parish and island o^ xy. In- verness, 182 South Whittlebum, improvements at, v. Ayr, 808 Southwick, annexed parish o^ iv. Kirk- cudbright, 215 South Yell, church of, xv. Shetland, 90 Soutra, annexed parish of, i. Edinburgh, 534 — church and village of^ 536 — hill, 534, ii Berwick, 88 Soy loch, xiv. Banff, 180 Soya isle, xv. Sutherland, 106 Spalander loch, v. Ayr, 493— bum, 494 Spar cave of Strathaird, xiv. Inverness, 301 Spartledown hill, ii Haddington, 55 Spean glen, xiv. Inverness, 504, 505— wa- ter, 119, 420, 505 Spectacle eye mill, fall at, vL Lanark, 302 Speddoch, lands of, iv. Dumfries, 554 — mill, 560 Spedlins' tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 385 Speedy hill quarry, x. Perth, 428 Spey loch, xiv. Inverness, 421 Spey river, xiii. Banft, 110, 113, 123, 124, 125, 356, 3.57, 358, Elgin, 44, 51, 60, 63, 92, 124, 126, 141, 228, xiv. Inver- ness, 64, 65, 81, 432, 433— salmon fisheries, xiii. Elgin, 56, 121 Spey tower, x. Perth, 670 Spey, vale of, xiv. Inverness, 418, 419, 421 Speymouth, parish of, xiii. Elgin, 51 Speyside Orphan Hospital, xiv. Inver- ness, 440 Spinningdale, village of, xv. Sutherland, 20 Spionnadh hill, xv. Sutherland, 83 Spiritin castle, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 14 Spital bum, the, ix. Fife, 829 SpittaU suppreceed parish of, iiL Rox- burgh, 177 Spittal of Cavers, the, iii. Roxburgh, 434 Spittalfield, village of, x. Perth, 677 Spittal hill of Cambuslang, vi. Lanark, 431 Spittal hill of Halkirk, xv. Caithness, 68 Spittal house, ii. Berwick, 154 Spittal mire, xiii. Banff, 30 Spittalhill quarry, v. Ayr, 56ft \ Spott, parish of, ii Haddington* 224 — house, 225, 227— village, 227, 231— water, 225 Spottiswoode chapel, ii Berwick, 71 — house, 66, 74— property, 67 Spout of Oaraock, the, ▼. Ayr, 691 Spouty quarry, the, xv. Sutherland, 159 Springfield house, i Edinburgh 533— Roman roadat,«iL Springfield, remains found at, ii Linlith- gow, 103 Spring^eld hill, camp on, iv. Domlfies^ 339— vUlage o^ 267, 270 Springfield house, vi Lanark, 407 Springfield house and village, iz. Fifisi, 8 Springfield house, xi For&r, 496 Springfield castle, ruins o^ x. Perth, 1065 Spring garden, remains found in, viii StirUng, 426 Springhall collieries, vi Lanark, 420 Springhill house, xii Abeardeen, 238 Springhill, property of, vi Lanark, 487 Springholm, village of, iv. Kirkcudbrulil, 852 SpringkeU house, iv. DumfrieB, 275, 278, 280--coal at, 277— spring at, 276 Springaide, improvements at, v. Ayr, 255 Springwood house, iii Roxbur^ 808, 320— remarkable trees at, 305 Sprouston, parish of, iii. Roxbui]di, 235— village, 237, 239 Sput-ban &11, x. Perth, 541 Spur ness, xv. Orkney, 85 Spylaw house, i Edinburgh, 111 Spynie, New, parish of, xiii Elgin, 95— loch, drainage of, 29, 33, 95, 96, 146 — palace, ruins of, 96 Srobeman hill, x. Perth, 470 Stac hill, xiv. Ross, 74 Stac, Ben, xv. Sutherland, 119 — loch, 120, 122,217 Stachd lachlain rock, xiv. Inverness, 246 Stack isle, xv. Sutherland, 218 Stack of Noop, the, xv. Orkney, 116 Stacks of Duncansbay, the, xv. Caith- ness, 22 Stacks of Hempriggs, xv. C-aithneas, 118 Stackabeig, remains found at, xv. Shet- land, 25 Stadaig head, xiv. Ross, 74 Stafik isle, viL Argyle, 340, 345, 351 Staffin bay, xiv. Invemess, 240 Stagehall, Roman camp at, i Edinbur^ 416 Staigholes, relic at, iv. Dumfries, 467 Staik hill, v. Ayr, 690, 787, vii Renfrew, 75,83 Stain, village of, vi. Lanark, 611, 621 Stair, parish of, v. Ayr, 637 — house, 640, 641,643 Standard loch, the, xiii. Banff, 274 Standhill, sandstone at, iii Roxburgh, 356 Standingstones, remains at, iii Roxburgh, OIBNBBAL INDBX. cxxxv Stane, Tillage and collieriefl of, vi. La- nark, 611,621 Stanely hills, wiL Renfrew, 160 — tower, ruins o^ 194 Stanemanniahead, the, xiii. Banff, 155 Stanhope mills, village of, L Edinbur;g^, 222 Stanley braes, viiL Renfrew, 140, 160 Stanley bum, ▼. Ayr, 193 Stanley, chapel at, x. Perth, 181, 454— cotton mills, 181, 435— house, 434— trees at it, 429 — quarries, 428^~quoad tacra parish of, 494 — village, 188, 436, 442, 1135 Stanrig colliery, viiL Stirling, 208 Stanstill house, xv. Caithness, 1 15— bum, 123 Staplegorton, old village of, iv. Dumfries, 420— suppressed paurish of, 425 Star, village of, ix. Fife, 380 Stare dam, the, x. Perth, 424— standing stones at, 433 Starly bum, ix. Fife, 405 — harbour, 420 Starr, stone coffins found at, ix. Fife, 544 farm of, 551 Starsach-na-Oael, the, xiv. Invemess, 98 Starthope hill, camp on, vi. Lanark, 817 Staslay isle, xiv. Inverness, 185 Staxigoe, ironstone at, xv. Caithness, 126 —rocks at, 118— village, 153, 157, 158 Stead, stone cross at, viL Renfrew, 196 Steeds' stallsythe, z. Perth, 1035 Stein, village of^ xiv. Inverness, 353 Steinscholl, district of^ xiv. Inverness, 240 church at, 269, 281— mineral spring at, 245 Stempster, improvements at, xv. Caith- ness, 115— loch, 86 Stenhouae, lead ore at, iv. Dumfries, 474 Stenhouse tower, ruins o^ ix. Fife, 414 Stenhouae house, ruins of^ viii Stirling, 362— property, 840, 344 Stenhouse muir, feir of^ viiL Stirling^ 21 —village, 375 Stenish, village o£, xiv. Ross, 136 Stenness isle, xv. Shetland, 71 Stenness, annexed parish of, xv. Orkney, 67— lake, 27* 41, 46— standing stones of; 54, 68 Stennis water, iv. Dumfries, 430 Stenriesliill house, iv. Dumfries, 141 Stenshiel hiU, u. Berwick, 116 Stenton, parish of, u, Had4ington, 55— village, 56, 59 Stenton house, x. Perth, 676 Stepping stones of Glenterra, iv. Wigton, 85 Stevenson bum, iii. Peebles, 1 35 Stevenson house, ii. Haddington, 5— plan- tations, 1 Stevenston, parish of; v. Ayr, 426 — burn, 427~barony of, 452 — collieries, 439 —quarry, 193, 437— town, 452, 459 Stewart monument, L Edinbuigh, 655 Stewart castle, ruins of; iv. Wigton, 177 Stewartfield, coins found at, iii. Roxbuiigh, 13— house, 14 — woods, 5 Stewartfield, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 150 Stewarton, parish of, v. Ayr, 727— town, 734, 737 Stewarton, village of, vi. Lanark, 621 Stewarton, village of, xiv. Invemess, d77t 395 Stewart town, village of, iv. Wigton, 114, 120 Stewarfft Raiss castle, ruins of, vii. Ren- frew, 193 Stev Amry rock, v. Ayr, 516 StielPs hospital, ii. Haddington, 301, 302 Stinchdr frurmers^ association, v. Ayr, 422 —water, 335, 395, 407, 408, 416, 528 Stirkfield quarry, iiL Peebles, 82 Stirkoke house, xv. Caithness, 142— strath of, 119 Stirkrigg, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 283 Stirling, parish, town, and castle of, viiL Stirling, 390— Caledonian society, 441 Stirling Ull, xiL Aberdeen, 345 — granite quarries of; 363 Stirlingshire, observations on, viiL Stir- Ung, 451 Stirton, property o^ ix. Fife, 551 Stitchell house, iii. Roxburgh, 457— vil- lage, 458 Stitchell and Hume, united parishes of, iiL Roxburgh, 456 Stob-an-daimh hill, viL Argyle, 83 Stobbs castle, iiL Roxburgh, 426, 428 Stobbs mills, village of, L Edinburgh, 183 Stobchon hill, x. Perth, 345 Stobhall house, x. Perth, 1169 Stobhill, village of, i. Edinbuigh, 53— colliery, 606 Stobo, parish of, iiL Peebles, 121— bum, ib. — castle, 123 Stobs, gunpowder mills o^ L Edinburgh, 53 Stobsmuir quarry, xL Forfer, 5 Stockbridge, chapel at, iL Berwick, 314 Stockleton dike, vL Lanark, 621 Stockmuir, Draidical circle at, x. Perth, •221 Stocky muir, viiL Stirling, 100 Stone house of Kinnell, xL Forfar, 396 Stone of Morphy, the, xi. Kincardine, 281 Stone of the Tube, the, xiv. Inverness, 16 Stonebyres, falls of, vL Lanark, 5 — hill, 554 — Chouse, 957 Stonefield bay, viL Argyle, 516 Stonehaven bay, xL Kincardine, 214 — fisheries, 261— town, 223, 227, 229, 244, 262— camp at, 249 StonehiU hill, vL Lanark, 518, 520— quarry, 811 Stone Hone, xv. Caithness, 115 Stonehouse tower, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 266 Stonehouse, remains at, v. Ayr, 482 Stonehouse, parish of, vL Lanark^ 4^% — v\Uft«^4^^,4nv CXXXVl OEHBIIAL IVDBX. Stonelaw collienr, ri, Lanark, 378, 420 < — propertj and home, 377 Stone Sudd, xr. Caithness, 115 Stones of Kiniemuir, the, xi. Forfiv , 1 76 Stonerfield, Dmidical circle at, xir. In- TernMB, 15 Stoneyhill house, L Edinburgh 281 Stoneyhill, property of, iL Linlithgow, 25 Stonejpath hill, iL Haddington, 61 ^ tower, ruins of, 65 Stoneywood mi Us, viii. Stirling, 129 Stony'ford moss, iii. Roxburgh, 270 Stony kirk, parish of, iv. Wigton, 162 Stoos head, xr. Orkney, 191 Store hill, xir. Inverness, 221, 287 Store, qwxid tacra pariah of^ xt. Suther- land, 112, 116— point, 105 Stormontfield bleachfield, x. Perth, 1070 Stormonth, battle of; xi. For&r, 173 Stormy rock, the, xi?. Ross, 10 Stomoway bay, m Argyle, 409 Stomoway, parish of, xiv. Ross, 115 — district' and town, ib. 127, 135— loch, 117 Stotfield harbour, xiii Elgin, 147 — head, 83 —village, 155, 156 Stotfield, remains found at, iiu Roxburgh, 261— rocks at, 254 Stove, rocks at, xv. Orkney, 87 Stow, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 398 — vil- lage, 422 Stracathrow, see Strickathrow Strachan, parish of, xi. Kincardine, 231 Strachur bay, vii. Argvle, 107 — hills and valley, 104— house, 105 Strachur and Stralachlan, united parishes of, vii. Argyle, 1 03 Strachurmore house, vii. Argyle, 105 Strae glen, vii. Argvie, 84 — water, ib. Strafiirrar glen, xiv. Inverness, 363 Strafontane, ancient parish o^ ii. Ber- wick, 106, 108— church, ruins of, 109 Strageath, Roman camp of, x. Perth, 327 Straid well, x. Perth, 313 Straiten quarry, i. Edinburgh, 21 Straiton, parish of, v. A>t, 333^\illage, it. 338, 340, 342 Stralachlan, annexed parish of, "vii. Ar- gyle, 103— valley, 104 Straloch, property of, xii. Aberdeen, 1025 —house, 1029— plantations, 1027 Stranamban loch, vii. Argyle, 281 Stranathrow harbour, xL Kincardine, 245 — rocks at, ib. — village, 262 Strand, ruins of chapel at, xv. Shetland, 25 Strandiburgh head, xv. Shetland, 49 Strand ufF house, xii. Aberdeen, 334 Strand wick voe, xv. Shetland, 33 Stranraer, parish and town of, iv. Wig- ton, 89, 94 Strath, parish of, xiv. Inverness, 300 Strath of Badenoch, xiv. Inverness, 82 Strath of Monteatb, viii. 'Sl\iVviv%, 4^ Strathachvaich, xv. SulV\eT\aivA, 1 Strathaird, chapel at, xiv. InT eiuc— , 31 2 — propcoiy o^ SOS—^mt cmTe Of^ 301 Strathalladale, xt. Caithneny 12, 13 Strathallan, x. Perth, 313 Straihardle, x. Perth, 637, 639, 785 Stratharen, parish t^ ri. Lanark, 301 — town, i6. 308 Strathbeg bum, xiL Aberdeen, 218 — loch, ib. 219, 704 ' Strathbeg, XT. Sutherland, 83» 84 — water 88 ■ Strathblane, parish of; tiIL StirliniL 71 — hUls,»6. Strathbogie, xiiL Banff, 203— castle, mins of, xiL Aberdeen, 1037 Strathbrock, propoty of, ii. Linlithgow, 85,86 Strathbrora, xt. Sutherland, 46, 149 Strathbungo, village of, vi Lanark, 694 Strathcaimaig, xv. Sutherland, 2 ' Strathcarron, school at, xiv. Row, 431 Strathceannard, xiT. Ross, 74 Strathconnon, xir. Ross, 399 — church at, 238 Strathcroe, xiv. Ross, 182 Strathdeam, xiii. Elgin, 124— Nairn, 44, xiv. Inverness, 98 — mountains, 448, 449 StrBthdee, xiL Aberdeen, 1048 : Stiathdighty, xL Forfi&r, 54 ' Strathdinard, xt. Sutherland, 84 Strathdon, parish of, xiL Aberdeen, 525 Stratheam, X. Perth, 313, 492— agricul- tural association, 515, 713 — castle, site of; 251 Stratheden, ix. Fife, 921, Kinross, 4 Strathendrick, viii. Stirling, 63, 100 farmers* club, 109 Strathendry house, ix. Fife, 116 — im^ provements at, 1 23 Stratherrick, xiiL Elgin, 124 Strathfarrar, xiv. Inverness, 496 Stratbfenella, xL Kincardine, 69 — hill, 24, 69 Strathfillan, viii. Dunbarton, 236, x. Perth, 1078— ruins of cathedral, 1088 — holy pool of, ib. — mission and cha- pel, 1092 Strathfleet, xv. Sutherland, 25, 46, 215 Strathfloid, xv. Sutherland, 47 Strathglass, xiv. Inverness, 37, 363, 484 Strathgrjfe, vii. Renfrew, 75 Strathhead house, x. Perth, 434 Strathhelmsdale, xv. Sutherland, 134 Strathherrie, xiv. Inverness, 52, 58 Strathiligh, xv. Sutherland, 134 Strathkiness quarries, ix. Fife, 474 — vil- lage and chapel, 479, 481 Strathmartine, annexed parish of, xL For- far, 54 Strathmiglo, ix. Kinross, 4 — parish of, Fife, 775 — village, 779— rocks at, 921 Strathmore, x. Perth, 142,232,898, 1167 V ^iwitVvmore, xL Forfar, 337, 346, 383, 4 aSHEBAL Il^DBX. CtXXTll Strethmore, xiv. InTCfitiMS, 302 Strathmore« xv. Sutherland, 83, 84-- -wa- ter, 87 Strathnairn, xilL Nairn, 44, xiv. Inver- nesa, 514 Strathnaaealg hills, xiv. 'Robb, 74 Strathnaver, xv. Sutherland, 66y 67-— re- mains in, 71 Strathoikell, xiv. Roes, 406, 428-.defeat of Montrose at, x?. Sutherland, 51 Strathord, x. Perth, 426 Strathore house, ix. Fife, 749 Strathpeffer, xiv. Ross, 211, 244,247— hills, -212— spa, 213, 248 Strathrathy, xv. Sutherland, 67 Strathrhidorch, xiv. Ross, 74 Strathrory, xiv. Ross, 434 Strathrusdale, xiv. Ross, 263 Strathtay, x. Perth, 686 Strathtummel, x. Perth, 559 Strathvagasty, xv. Sutherland, 69 Strathy, cave at, xv. Sutherland, 67, 68 —bay and loch, 68, 217— water, 69, 215 Strathyre, x. Perth, 844— village, 847 Stravanan bay, v. Bute, 83 Straven, see Strathaven Stravithy castle, ruins of, ix. Fife, 365 Stream sound, xv. Shetland, 9 Streethouse, Roman road at, iii. Rox- bui^h, 196 Strettum brae, xlL Aberdeen, 1092 Strichen, pariah of, xH. Aberdeen, 687— house, tS. Strickathrow, parish of, xu For&r, 662 — hill, 664— house, 666 String loch, vii. Axgyle, 64 Striven loch, vii. Argyle, 108, 109 Stroin mount, xv. Sutherland, 119 Strom lake, xv. Shetland, 68 Stroma isle, xv. Caithness, 22, Orkney, 72 Stromberry head, xv. Orkney, 79 Strome ferry, xiv. Ross, 109---ca8tle, ruins of, 110 Stromness, parish' of^ xv. Orkney, 26— head, 104— town, 29, 34, 216 Stron hill, viii. Dunbarton, 155, 158, 170 — colliery, 175, 177 — ironstone at, 179 Stronchrubie, caves at, xv. Sutherland, 106 — limestone at, 108— remains at, 112 Strone point, vii Argyle, 574 Strone Rungie, cairns at, xv. Sutherland, 201 Stronfreggan water, iv. Kirkcudbrig^ 369 Stronmalenoeh hUl, viii. Dunbarton, 155 Stronsay isle and frith, xv. Orkney, 86, 156 Stronsay and Eday, united parities of, XV. Orkney, 156 Stronshira headtend, vii. Aigyle, 3 Strontian laid mines, vii Argyle, 134, 154 — quoad sacra parish of, 158— val- ley, 124 VOL, XV, Strowan house, x. Perth, 741'*A]inezed parish of, 723 Strubster, kirk of, xv. Caithness, 160 Strude glen, viii. Stirling, 177 Stniay cliffs, v. Bute, 41— 4»ve at, 55 Struie hill, xiv. Ross, 434 Struthers house, ruins of, ix. Fife, 524 Struthil well, x. Perth, 314 Struy well, xiv. Inverness, 487 Stryal cairn, the, iv. Dumfries, 445 Stuart castle, ruins of, xiv. Inverness, 382, 391 Stuartown, village of, xiv. Inverness, 377, 395 Stuck, chfupel at, x. Perth, 272 Stuckgoun, property of, viii Dunbarton, 97 Stuckindroin, cave at, viii Dunbarton, 95 Stuick-a-chroin hilU x. Perth, 349 Succoth, property of, viii Dunbarton, 43 Suddy, annexed parish of, xiv. Ross, 57 — property of, 59 Sugar loaf hill, xv. Sutherland, 105 Suidhe Chalhmi chille, the, v. Bute, 54 Suidhe Chatain hill, v. Bute, 83, 84 Suidhe Choir Fhionn, the, v. Bute, 52 Suidhe Chuiman hill, xiv. Inverness, 56 Suilven hills, the, xv. Sutherland, 105, 213 Suiqgill, strath of, xv. Sutherland, 134 Sullom voe, xv. Shetland, 56, 7 1 Sulnaba spring, xiv. Ross, 21 Sumburgh h&ad, xv. Shetland, 145 — lighthouse, 94 Summer isles, the, xiv. Ross, 74 Summerlee ironworks, vi. Lanark, 64«t, «48, 658 Summersdale, battle of, xv. Orkney, 68 Summerville house,iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 Sunadale water, vii. Aigyle, 438 Sunart, district of, vii Argyle, 118, 119 — ^loch, 119, 121, xiv. Inverness, 625 Sundaywell tower, ruins of, iv. Dmnfries, 341 Sunderland hall, iii Selkirk, 5 Sunderland house, vii. Argyle, 661 Sundhope water, iii. Roxbuigh, 442 Sundrum castle, v. Ayr, 651, 656 — col- lieries, 651, 660 — loch, 650— quarry, 659 Sunlaws, caves at, iii Roxburgh, 128— tower, ruins of, 1 30 Sunnybank quarries, ix. Fife, 839, 841 Sunnybrae, rocks at, iii. Roxbuigh, 3 Sunnyside house, i Edinburgh, 11 Sunnyside house, vi Lanark, 18— mari pits, 6 Surgeons* hall, Edinburgh, i Edinburgh, 687 Susanna lead mine, vi. Lanark, 336 Sutherlandahire, observations on, xv. Su- therland, 212 Sutors of Cromarty hills, xiv. Ross, 1 9^ 22, 30, 268 S CXXXVUl OBNBBAL INDEX. Swana loch, xv. Orkney, 198 Swanbister, freestone at, xv. Orkney, 17 — ruins 'dhcrf house, ii. Haddington, 333 — hill, 42 Symington house, i. Edinburgh, 4 1 7 S}Tnington, parish of, v. Ayr, 565— vil- lage, ib, Symington, parish of, vi. Lanark, 867 Synion's field, &c. iii. Roxburgh, 228 SynninesB castle, ruins of, iv. Wigton, 69' Synton moss, iii. Roxburgh, 269 — Chouse and plantations, 271 Sypland, British fort at, iv. Kirkcudbright, 20 Svpsies, limestone at, ix. Fife, 944 — house, ' 977— loch, 974 Syster loch, xv. Caithness, 36 Taamer isle, xiv. Inverness, 296 Tactagill bum, xv. Shetland, 103 Taf bum, iii. Peebles, 39 Tain, parish of, xiv. Ross, 280— hill, 281 —quarries, 283, 294— town, 289, 292, 295 Tai-na-bloir, battle of, x. Perth, 326 Tainf; hamlet, xv. Shetland, 95 Tnirth water, vi. Lanark, 52 Takmivdoon, view from, viii. Stirling, 140 Tala mo8i» ddimiali at, iii. Peebles, 64 Talla ialet and caaUe, z. Perth, 1998 Tallan loch, viL Argylt^ 661 TaUisker£snii,xiv. In%'enieai,295— hoosr 296 Talmine bay, xr. Sutherland, 168— quar ry. 179 Tamanurie hill, xiiL Banff; 112 Tamaree mills, viii. Stirling, 127 Tammy Ii bole, pool called, xL Foi&r, 31^ Tamnahara hill, viiL Dunbart4Mi, 104,23 —loch, lOd Tamnatherskina bill, viiL Stirling 61 Tamna-uriskin hill, viii. Stirling, 61 Tanara isle, xiv. Rooa, 74 Tangleha, village of, xL Kincardine, 27 J 285 TankemesB, plantations at, xt. Orknc? 177 — house, 179 Tanna loch, v. Bute, 32 Tannach house, xv. Caithness, 142— moa 123, 126 Tannachv house, xiii. Banff; 253, 2SJ Elgin, *1 67 Tannadice, parish of, xi. For&r, 198- house, 200 Tanner water, xii. Aberdeen, 1049 Tannock park house, v. Ayr, 496 Tantallan castle, iL Haddington, 29, 311 323, 328 Taocheillein castle, viL Argyle, 85 Tarbat, parish of, xir. Ross, 460— hooM 20, 302, 306, 468 — ness and lighthoiM 460, xiii Elgin, 147 Tarbathy hill, xii. Aberdeen, 242, 244 Tarbatmains, plantations at, xiv. Ross. 30 Tarbart, mission of, xiv. Inveme», 158 Tarbert bav,vii. Aigyle, 396 — castle, ruin of, 4l0^1och, 409— vUlage, 274, 411 Tarbert bav, viiL Dunbarton, 95 — inn, 9t 101 Tarbert hill, v. Ayr, 244 Tarbet castle, rock called, ii. Haddingtoi 204 Tarbet bay, iv. Wigton, 201 Tarbhach,' battle of, xiv. Ross, 405 Tarbolton, see Torbolton Tarf water, iv. Kirkcudbright, 38, 64, 61 Wigton, 196 Tarf water, xi Forfar, 192 Tarff water, xiv. Inverness, 51 Tarlain well, xiii. Banff, 274 Tarland bum, xii Aberdeen, 840 — vilUgi 843 Tarland and Migvie, united parishes o xii. Aberdeen, 839 Tarlogie, plantations at, xiv. Ross, 286 Tamty, see Trinity GadL TarraiPs stone, xiv. Inverness, 483 Tarras water, iv. Dumfries, 437, 485 — pe trifying spring, 486 Tarrensay isle, xiv. Inverness, 155 Tarreoch limeworks, v. Ayr, 328 Tarrieclerack, the, xiii Banff; 255 Tarriemount quarry, xiii Banff", 248 OBNBAAL INDEX* CXXXIX Tarry mill, xL Forikr,495 Tarrymuick moor, yl Lanark, 608 Tarth water, ui. Peebles, 127, 135, 136 Tarty hill, xii. Aberdeen, 800, 805 Tarves, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 667 Tarvet house, ix. Fife, 8 — tower, ruins of, 524^pinning mills, 527 Tashy bum, ironstone at, vL Lanark, 81 Tauneray isle and oaves, ziv. Ross, 158 Tavanach isle, viii. Ihinbarton, 157 Tay, frith of, ix. Fife, 512, x. Perth, 826, xi, Forfar, 2, 539 Tay, loch, x. Perth, 453, 454, 705, 1079 Tay, river, ix. Fife, 56, 57, 82, 506, 578, 579, 592, 596, x. Perth, 7,8, 9,46, 163, 165, 369, 370, 405, 407, 424, 455,609, 672, 686, 757, 962, 1044, 1130, 1168, 1210, xi. Forfkr, 1,569 Tayfield house, ix. Fife, 508 Taymouth castle, x. Perth, 468^woods, 460 Tayocks, property of, xi. Forfar, 123 Tayribbi, village of, viL Argyle, 251 Teagus, loch, vii. Ai^^le, 168, 183 Tealing, parish of, xi. For&r, 378 TeampuU Choain, ruins of, xiv. Inveraeas, 305 TeampuU Frangaig, ruins of, xiv. Inver- ness, 305 Teampull na Trianaide, ruins of, xiv. In- verness, 1 69 Teaninich, stone at, xiv. Ross, 343 Teamate, ancient mines of, vii. Argyle, 170— loch, 166 Teasses house, ix. Fife, 525-^lime quarry, 520 Teith water, viii. Stirling, 306, x. Perth, 350, 351, 1160, 1225, 1*226, 1248, 1249 —bridge, 1230 Teller's well, xii Aberdeen, 298 Temple close, xii. Aberdeen, 447 Temple hall and well, il Berwick, 171 Temple, parish of, i. Edinburgh, 49 — church, 51 — village, 52, 53 Temple, village of, ix. Fife, 442 Temple house, ii. Haddington, 193 Temple, ruins at, xiv. Inverness, 45, 56 Temple hall, ruins of, vi. Lanark, 582 Temple house, ruins of, iii. Peebles, 116 Templecrofl, remains found at, xiv. Ross, 252 Temple Denny, district of, viii. Stirling, 117 Templehall house, ix. Fife, 718 Templehouse quarry, v. Ayr, 291 — vil- lage, 731 Templeland house, xii. Aberdeen, 601 Templeton, village of, xi. Forfiir, 560 Tenandry, quoad aacra parish of, x. Perth, 662 Tendal water, vii. Argyle, 479 Tent's moor, the, ix. Fife, 219, x. Perth, 4 Tequliats lime quarry, ix. Fife, 520 Temavie, ruins of, x. Perth, 717 Terperse, property of, xii. Aberdeen, 446 Terraughty house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 2!26 Terreagles, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 230 Terringzean castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 482 Terrothead, chapel at, iii. Roxburgh, 437 Terry chapel, rums of, xii. Aberdeen, 1 122 Terth, see Tarth Tervie bum, xiiL Banff; 126 Tetherewe &rm, xi Forfiir, 123 Teuchats lime quarry, ix. Fife, 520 Teunan, see Forglen Teviot river, iii. Roxburgh, 2, 24, 76, 87, 128, 177, 220, 221, 241, 280, 281, 301, 379, 380, 425, 428, 460 Teviotbank hoiise, iii. Rolbiu^h, 354, 356, 372 Teviotdale, iii Roxburgh, 460, 461— agri- cultural association,404 Teviotstone hill, iii. Roxburgh, 426 Texa isle, vii Argyle, 661 Thainston hill, xii Aberdeen, 655— house, 660 Thankerton, annexed parish of^ vi. La- nark, 873 — collieries and village, 793, 875 Theafiil stone, the, vi. Lanark, 597 Theodosia, Roman town of, viii Dunbar- ton, 4 Thickside, embankment at, iv. Dumfries, 409 Thiers buss, the, xi Kincardine, 239 Thief* cave in Monzie, x. Perth, 264 Thiers road, the, iii Peebles, 1 16 Thieves and Nappers, the, iv. Wigton, 233 Thimble row village, iii. Roxburgh, 198 Thirdpart house, ix. Fife, 977-^woods» 974 Thirl stane, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 235 Thirlestane hill, iii. Roxbur^ 161— house, 163 Thirlestane tower and castle, ruins of, iii. Selkirk, 68 Thirlstane castle, ii Berwick, 3, 5 — pro- perty, 3 Thistle bridge, coins found at, x. Perth, 177 Thom loch, v. Ayr, 804 Thomas the Rhymer's castle, ruins of^ ii. Berwicki21 Thomaston castle, ruins of; v. Ayr, 782 Thomastown, fossil remains found at, xii. Aberdeen, 299 Thomson's cave, iii Roxburgh, 244 Thorlieshope, farm of, iii Roxburgh, 99 — limestone at, 442 Thom, village of, vii. Renfrew, 190, 200, 249 Thom trees of Polwarth, the, ii. Berwick, 234 Thomhill quarry, vi. Lanark, 835 Thomhill, village of, iv. Dumfries, 91, 97, 99, 100 Thomhill, vUlage of,x. Perth, 1248, 1265, 1281 Thomithwaite, remains at, iv. Wigton, 233 cxl aBHE&AL UIDBX. Thornlie bank, village of, vii. Renfrew, 41 | Tbornmuir limeworks, vi. Lanark, 569 Thornton, Dniidical remains at, xiL Aber- deen, 622 Thornton collieries, ix. Fife, 661 — vitriol manufactory, 677 — village and chapel, 682 Thornton, fossil remains at, xL Foriar, 342 Thornton castle, ii. Haddington, 241— water, 235 Thornton aisle, xl Kincardine, 301—* castle, 25, 302 Thornton, limeworks at^ vi Lanark, 882 Thomtonloch, village of, it Haddington, 233, 236, 246 Thomtree mains, ii. Haddington, 293 Thorny bank, village of, L Edinbuighy 501 lliomydyke, villi^e of, ii. Berwick, 63 Thomylee, quarry at, iii. Peebles, 28 Threave castle, ruins and history o^ iv. Kirkcudbright, 157, 181 Three brethren cairn, hill of, iii Selkirk, 2 Three kings rocks, xiii. Banff, 316 Threepwood, remains at, v. Ajrr, 578 — milLs at, 591 Three shire stone, vi Lanark, 498 Three Sisters rocks, v. Ayr, 245 Three thorns quarry, v. Ayr, 335 Three trees of Dysait, the, ix. Fife, 133 Three wells &rm, xi Kincardine, 21 Thriepland hum, vi Lanark, 883, vii. Renfrew, 386, 537 Thrieplaw church, ruins of, ii Hadding- ton, 180 Thrieve castle, niins and histoiy of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 157,181 Thripptt haugh, vi. l^nark, 257 Throsk harbour, viii. Stirling, 306— tile- work, 332 Through-let channel, vii Renfrew, 409 Thrumster, chapel at, xv. Caithness, 160 — Pictisb remains, &c. at 137, 141 Thugar stane, the, v. Ayr, 294 Thuk, chapel at, viii. Stirling, 335 Thura, property of, xv. Caithness, 116 Thurso, parish of, xv. Caithness, 1 — town, 1, 3, 7 — castle, ruins of, 4 — river, 1, 2 —bay, I, 7 Thurston, propertv, &c. of, ii. Hadding- ton, 234, 23«, 239 Tibl3craiore, parish of, x. Per^h, 1028 Tibbers castle, ruins of, iv. Dumfries, 503 — Roman camp of, 327 Ticl water, ix. Fife, 148, 249, 801 Tig water, v, Ayr, 415, 416 Tighary point, cave at,xiv. Inverness, 161 Tiglie t^ilmhidh na Druinich, the, xv. Su- therland, 111 Tigh na craig, ruins of, xiv. Ross, 45 Tigh'n'Sealg, the, xiv. Inverness, 152 Till water, iii. Roxburgh, 160, 450 Tillanamols house, xii. Abonleen, 723 Tiller hum, \i. fiJinark, 765, 772 Tillery house, xii. Aberdeen, 6J>8 Tillicoultry, )>lan* tations, 636 Tillygreig house, xii. Aberdeen, 182 Tillyminnet glen, xiii Banff, 95 Tillymuick hill, xii Aberdeen, 693 Tillyochie mill, ii. Kinross, 14 Tillythrowie, ruins of chapel Hi, xiiL Banff, 97 Tilny glen, xt. Sutherland, 134 Tilt, glen, x. Perth, 559— water, 560 Tilwhilly castle, xi Kincardme, 343, 348 — limeworks, 330— property, 325 Timah bum, iii. Selkirk, 61 Timpandean tower, ruins of, iii Roxburgh , 11. Tina, Roman station o^ xi Forfiir, 663 Tine, see Tyne Tingwall loch, xv. Shetland, 59, 68 Tingwall, Whiteness, and Weeedale^ united parishes of, xv. Shetland, 69 Tinnis castle, iii. Peebles, 41, 73 — hill and water, Roxburgh, 441 Tinto hill, vi. Lanark, 93, 94, 517, 518, 867, 953— tumuli on, 870 Tinwald downs, iv. Dumfries, 16 — house, 44 Tinwald and Trailflat, united parishes o^ iv. Dumfries, 39 Tipperty, spring at, xiii Banff, 147 — hill, 149 Tirally bay, iv. Wigton, 201 Tiree isle, vii. Argyle, 195 Tiree and Coll, united parishes of, vii Argyle, 195 Tirefoor castle, ruins of, vii Argyle, 242 Tister, property of, xv. Caithness, 114 Titwood, lands of, vi Lanark, 668 Tiviot, see Teriot Tobar a chinn, tradition r^;arding, xiv. Inverness, 315 Tobar Acraig well, xv. Caithness, 70 Tolmr Asliig well, xiv. Inverness, 3p5 Tobar Massan well, xv. Sutherland, 191 Tobar na domhnuich, the, xiv. Ross, 257 Tobar na gul spring, xiv. Inverness, 380 Tobar na h'Annait well, xiv. Inverness, 305 Tobar nam Fiann hill, x. Perth, 786 Tobar na Muire, xiv. Ross, 344 Tobar nil Hiainte, xiv. Ro^s, 21 Tobermory, quoad sacra parish of, vii. Ar- gyle, 354 — village, ih. Tobtrnareal, battle of, x. Perth, 1103 QSl^BBAL JITDSX. cxli Toberonochy harbour, vii. Aigyle, 73 — village, 79 Tochieneal, spring at^ xiii Banff, 316«— cottage, 317— distillery, 341 Tod craigs, iii. Roxburgh, 161 Todhead hill, xi. Kincardine, 310 Todheugh quarry, iL Berwick, 171 Todholes colliery, v. Ayr, 443 Todholes castle, ruins of, vi. Lanark, 68 Todshawhaugh, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 91 Todshawbill, camp at, iii. Roxburgh, 90 Tod^s mill, dens at, ii. Linlithgow, 124 Toflferry, tradition regarding, xv. Caith- ness, 138 Toflholm, Pictish remains at, iii. Rox- burgh, 444 Toftingall, loch, xv. Caithness, 50 TofU, geological appearances at, iiL Rox- burgh, 255 Toftsness, ruins on, xv. Orkney, 136 Tolbzies stone, ix. Fife, 732 Tolla loch, vii. Argyle, 85 ToUcross, village of, vi. Lanark, 652 Tollie, suppressed parish of, xiv. Ross, 252— scenery of, 264 Tollis hill, camp on, ii Berwick, 5 ToUo hill, xi. Kincardine, 178 Tollpark, Roman remains at, viii. I>un- barton, 141 Tolquhon castle, ruins of, xii. Aberdeen, 669 Tolsta bay, xiv. Ross, 117— head, 1 IB- sands, 117 Tom-arbhoid, antiquities at, xiv. Inver- ness, 56 Tomachar, sculptured stone at, xii. Ahet- deen, 1072 Tom-a-chastel, x. Perth, 491, 734 Tom-archroich, the, xiv. Inverness, 391 Tom-a-mhoid, the, xiv. Inverness, 391 Tom-an-moid, ruins of, xi. Forfar, 325 Tomantoul, see Tomintoul Tomatin, plantations at, xiv. Inverness, 103 Tombia, chapel at, xiiL Banff, 140 Tomdow rock, xiii. Elgin, 63 Tom Eanraic, superstition regarding, xiv. Inverness, 469 Tomenbowie church, ruins of, x. Perth, 272 Tomintoul, qttoad aacra parish of, xiii. 'Banff, 296— village, 138, 301, SOS- church, &c. 307 Tom Mhoit, British fort at, xiv. Inver- ness, 470 Tommore burn, xiii. Banff, 1 26 Tom-na-Chessaig hill, x. Perth, 355 Tomnaclag hill, viii. Punharton, 1 57 Tomna-hivrich, Druidical remains on, xii Aberdeen, 958 Tomnahurich hill, xiv. Inverness, 8, 13 Tomnarroch bum, xiii Nairn, 27 Tomnavin distillery, xiii. Banff, 1 98 Tomnavcrie, a Druidical temple, xii. Aberdeem 84*2 Tomnavoulin bridge, xiii. Banff, 139 Tomphin, ironstone at, viii. Stirling, 144 Tomrawer limeworks, viii Stirling, 142 Tomtain hill, viii. Stirling, 140 Ton bum, xii. Aberdeen, 818 Tonderghie, copper ore at, iv. Wigton, 54 Tonerghee, remains at, iv. Wigton, 233 Tong, aird of, xiv. Ross, 117 — isle, 159 — sands, 117— water, 120 Tongland, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 63 — abbey, ruins of, 88 Tongue, parish of, xv. Sutherland, 164— house, ib. 173, 177— Kyle, 164, 166, 168— point, 166— village, 171, 180 Tookquay bay, xv. Orkney, 115 — loch, 118 Topran well, xiii Elgin, 62 Tor bum, vi. Lanark, 883 Tor bum, vii Renfrew, 386, 537 Tor hill, ii Linlithgow, 110 Tor liim, ruins of tower at, iv. Dumfries, 69 Tor ness, xv. Orkney, 157 Tor of Bighouse, xv. Sutherland, 215 Tor of Logierait, x. Perth, 690 Tor of Troup, plantations of, xiii. Banff^ 281 Tor a'Bhean hill, xiv. Inverness, 8, ] 4 Tor Alvie, hill and monument on, xiv. Inverness, 88 . Tor a Chaistel, ruins of, v. Bute, 52 Torbeck hill, iv. Dumfries, 1 it5 Torbol hill, v. Avr, 747 Torboll hills, xv* Sutherland, 2 Torbolton, parish of, v. Ayr, 741— -loch, 743, 766— village, 741, 758 Torbrax, spring at, viii. Dunbarton, 1 72 Torcastle of Dallas, ruins of, xiii Elgin, 198 Torcorse hill, v. Ayr, 743, 746 Tordarroch, massacre at, xiv. Inverness, 516 — Druidical remains at, 519 Tordoff point, iv. Dumfries, 262 Tore bum, xiii Banff; 275 Tore of Troup, the, xiii. Banff, 281 Torfoot, Roman coins found at, vi La- nark, 303 Torgarrow bum, xiii Nairn, 27 Torhead, skirmish at, iv. Dumfries, 70 Torhouse, standing stones of, iv. Wigton, 2 Tork hill, xiv. Inverness, 519 Torkie hill, x. Perth, 559 Torloisk house, vii Argyle, 342 Torlum hill, x. Perth, 312, 317, 491, 725 Tormor, falls of, x. Perth, 541 Tormore, Druidical remains at, v. Bute» 52— rocks at, 44 Tomagrain, spring at, xiv. Invemcss, 380 Tomanshiain, remains on, v. Bute, 23 Tornidneoin hill, v. Bute, 8 Tomneben hill, xv. Sutherland, 119 Torosay, parish of, vii Argyle, 277 Torphichen, parish of, ii. Linlithgow, 34 — village, 52— preceptory, 47, i Edin- burgh, 364 cxlii GENEBAL INDEX. Torquhan house, i. Edinbuigh, 417 Torquirs cave, xv. Sntherland, 25 Ton- of Logierait, x. Perth, 690 Torra water, xiv. Roes, 143 Torran, limestone at, xiv. Inverness, 302 Torrance, suppressed parish of, vi. La- nark, 887— house, 419, 887, 892— kirk, 887 Torrance, village of, viii. Stirling, 258, 259 Torranrigh hill, v. Bute, 20 Torrich, improvements at, xiii. Nairn, 4 Torridon, district of, xiv. Ross, 99— loch, 90— river, 100 Torrie bum, ix. Fife, 728— collieries, Uf, — house, ib. 733— -village, 733 Torrie, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 73 Torrisdale bay, xv. Sutherland, 168 — vra- ter, 170, 215, vii. Aigyle, 438 Torrs, Druidical circles at, iv. Kirkcud- bright, 153— cove, 156— lake, 31 Torrs, plantations at, vii. Renfrew, 362 Torry hill, xi. Kincardine, 196 — pier, 199 — village, 1 96, 208 — improvements at, 205 Torrj'bum, parish of, ix. Fife, 727 — vil- lage, 732, 733 Torsay isle, vii. Argyle, 71 Torse, property of, xv. Caithness, 88, 99 —castle, ruins of, 91 Torsonce castle, ruins of, i. Edinburgh, 418— inn, 429 Torthorwald, parish of, iv. Dumfries, 29 — castle, ruins of, ib. — village, i6. 32 Torwood house, x. Perth, 1008 Torwood castle, viii. Stirling, 381 — head, remains at, 362 — house, ruins of, ih. — oak, 381— Roman road at, 322— vil- lage, 385 Torwoodlee, property of, i. Edinburgh, 407 — castle and house, 417,41 8 — wood at, iii. Roxburgh, 65 Toscarton, annexed parish of, iv. Wigton, IGJ Totagan nan Druidean, cairns at, xiv. In- verness, 267 Tothorl castle, ruins of, vi. Lanark, 484 Touch bum, viii. Stirling, 307 — planta- tions, 314 Touchadam, improvements at, viii. Stir- ling, 328 Toucks liill, xi. Kincardine, 213 Tough, parish of, xii. Aberdeen, 611 Tour burn, ix. Fife, 829 Tourie Lum, distiiet of, xiv. Ross, 382 Tours, old mines at, vi. Lanark, 851 Toward castle, ruins of, vii. Argjle, 600— point and lighthouse, 574 Towe hill, viii. Dunlxirton, 142 Tower bum, ix. Fife, 829 Tower castle, ruins of, vii. Renfrew, 96 Tower dean, ii. Berwick, 291, 295, 301 — bum, 2.03 Tower collieries, vi. Lanark, 368 Tower hill, ix. Fife, R*2?^ Tower hill, x. Pertb, \^% Tower inn of Hawick, iii. Roxburgh, 393 Tower Lindsay, ruins of, vi Lanaric, 331 Tower of Alloa, ruins o^ viiL Clackman- nan, 2 Tower of Halbar colliery, vL Lanark, 668 Tower of Repentance, ruins o^ ir. Dam- . fries, 250 Towers at Banff, ruins called, xiii. Banff, 28 Towie bum, xii Aberdeen, 416 — castle, ruins of, 4 1 7— parish o^450 — property, 991 Towie Barclay castle, ruins of, xii. Abei^ deen, 287— house, 995 Townend house, Symington, v. Ayr, 567 Townend of Threepwood, remains at, v. Ayr, 578 Townhall, Ayr, v. A}t, 23 Townhall, Greenock, vii. Renfrew, 425 Townhall, Inverness, xiv. InvemesB, 16 Townhall, Leith, i. Edinburgh, 766 Townhall, Perth, x. Perth, 82 Townhall, Wick, xv. Caithness, 142 Townhead, Arbuthnott, remains found at. xi. Kincardine, 161 Townhead quarry, Ayr, v. Ayr, 40 Townhead of Banchory, village of, xL Kincardine, 355 Townhead of Kilsyth house, viii. Stirling, 146— loch, ih. — paper mill, 160 Townhead of Penpont, village of^ iv. Dum- fries, 508 Townhill colliery, ix. Fife, 834, 837— vil- lage, 874 Townhouse, Banff, xiii. Banff, 34 Townhouse, Beith, v. Ayr, 601 Townhouse, Dunse, ii. Berwick, 255 Townhouse, Forres, xiii. Elgin, 1 64 Townloch, Dunfennline, ix. Fife, 829 Town Manor tower, ruins of, iiu Peebles, 116 Town Yetholm, village of, iii. Roxburgh, 159, 160, 165, 173 Trabrown, brewery at, ii. Haddington, 186 Tradeston, see Glasgow and Go van Trailflat, annexed parish of, iv. Dumfries, 39 Trail trow, suppressed parish of, iv. Dum- fries, 244 Tram, brig o\ xv. Caithness, 119 Tranent, parish oi\ ii. Haddington, 282 — battle of, 293— collieries, 288— town, 282, 289, 299 Traprain law, ii. Haddington, 18, 19, 358 Traquair forest, i. Edinburgh, 409 Traquair, parish of,iii. Peebles, 36 — house, 40, 44 — Know, remains found at, 41 Treame limeworks, v. Ayr, 573 Trees, camp at, v. Ayr, 365 Tree8i>ank house, v. Ayr, 610 Trcfad, cliffs at, xv. Caithness, 87 Trefor hill, xii. Aberdeen, 294 Treig water and loch, xiv. Invemess, 505 Tt««%v\l, caves at, xv, Sutherland, 85 GENERAL INDEX. cxliii Tress ness, xv. Orkney, 133— ruins of cha- pel, &c at, 136, 141 Tresta voe, xv. Shetland, 23, 32, 101 Trevie loch, xiii Elgin, 1 96 Trealivall loch, xiv. Ross, 159 Tribboch tower, ruins of, v. Ayr, 642 Trinity chain pier, i. Edinburgh, 781— chapel, 667 — hospital, 721 —college church, 662— house, 763 Trinity church of St Andrews, ix. Fife, 470 Trinity Gask, parish of, x. Perth, 335 Trinity monastery, Dunbar, iL Hadding- ton, 79 Trinity muir fair, xi Forfar, 141 Trinity temple, ruins o£^ xiv. Invemess, 169 Trinity well, i. Edinburgh, 538 Trinity well, x. Perth, 335 Trochaim limeworks, v. Ayr, 504 Trochery castle, ruins of; x. Perth, 1005 Trochrigg house, v. Ayr, 396 Trodda isle, xiv. Inverness, 240 Trohaughton, Roman camp at, iv. Dum- fries, 12 Tromie water, xiv. Inverness, 65 Tron church, &.c. i. Edinburgh, 663 Tronach castle, ruins of, xiii. Banff, 254 Tronda voe, cave at, xv. Shetland, 57 Trondra isle, xv. Shetland, 9 Trool loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 119 Troon point, v. Ayr, 669 — town and hai> hour, 683, 684— (^uoocf Mcra parish o^ 685 Troqueer, parish of, iv. Kirkcudbright, 233 Troqueerholm house, iv. Kirkcudbright, 226 Trosachs, the, x. Perth, 350 Trotemish, barony of, xiv. Inverness, 241, 257 Trouchment, village of, xi. Forfar, 218 Troughewan, property of^ v. Bute, 74 Troup bum, xiiL Banff, 275— head, 145, 271 — hill, 274 — house and plantations, 281,285— den, 273 Troustrie, quarry at, ix. Fife, 946 Trow craigs, the, iii. Roxburgh, 129 Truderscaig loch, xv. Sutherland, 137 Truim water, xiv. Inverness, 65 Tnimpan, massacre at, xiv. Inverness, 329 Trustach forest, xi. Kincardine, 336 — house, 328 — property, 325 Tryal cairn, iv. Dumfries, 445 Trysting stones of Morebattle, iii. Rox- burgh, 451 Trysting tree of Kelso, iii. Roxburgh, 305 Trysting tree of Roxburgh, iii. Roxburgh, 129 Tuacks, tumuli called, xv. Orkney, 126 Tubemach, loch, xv. Sutherland, 151 Tudhope hill, iii. Roxburgh, 441 — mine- ral well at, 2 Tuimpan head, xiv. Ross, 115, 118 Tuirck loch, x. Perth, 786 Tuiteam Tarbhach, battle of, xiv. Ross, 405 Tullach, sheep ferm of, xiv. Invemess, 504 Tulliallan, parish of, x. Perth, 867 — castle, ruins of, 868 — modem castle of, ib, Tullibardine muir, x. Perth, 298— chapel, ruins of; 299 Tullibody house, viii. Clackmannan, 19, 43^plantations, 18 — village, 44, 54 Tullibole, annexed parish of, x. Perth, 1017 Tullich cattle, ruins of, xii. Aberdeen, 1059— suppressed parish of, 772 — vil- lage, 779, 781 Tullich bum, xiiL Banff, 104 TuJlimoss, battle of, x. Perth, 1 101 Tullins hill, camp on, ii. Berwick, 5 Tulloch loch, xiii. Elgin, 240 — property, 120 Tulloch, cairn at, xi. Kincardine, 37 Tulloch bleachfield, x. Perth, 94, 190— village, 86, 97 Tulloch castle, xiv. Ross, 212, 366— hill, 212— property, 320 Tullochard hill, xiv. Ross, 171 Tullochgriban loch, xiii. Elgin, 125 Tullochvenus, remains found at, xii. Aber- deen, 613 TuJlos hill, xi. Kincardine, 197 — pro- perty, 205, Forfer, 143 Tullybeagles, district of, x. Perth, 424— slate quarries, 428 TuUybelton hill, x. Perth, 424, 426— house, 434 Tullydivie, school at, xiii. Elgin, 193 Tullynessle and Forbes, united parishes of, xii. Aberdeen, 439 Tulm fort, ruins of, xiv. Invemess, 266— isle, 240 Tummel loch, x. Perth, 560, 757 — river, 546, 560, 639, 640, 686, 757, 758 Tundergarth, pariah of, iv. Dumfries, 195 Turf dike coal pit, v. Ayr, 432, 437, 44S Turin hill, xl Forfar, 597, 598, 627— house, 627— quarries, 540, 598, 600— remains at, 606 Turing^ tower, ruins o^ xii. Aberdeen, 699 Turleum hill,x. Perth, 312,317,491, 725 Tumagain hill, x. Perth, 174 Tumberry castle, ruins of, v. Ayr, 782— head, 394 Turner hall, xii Aberdeen, 906 Tumlaw cairns, ii. Berwick, 73, 101 Tumlaw hill, vi Lanark, 417 Turahouse hill, I Edinburgh, 310, 312— camp at, 317 Turawheel, meeting of Calder and Clyde at, vi. Lanark, 419 Turret loch, x. Perth, 726— water, 491, 726, 727, xi Forfar, 1 92 Turrifl^ parish of; xiu A.\«st^head, 119_hoi^ 124, 142 Ullapool, village o^ xv. Shetland, 108, xiv. Ross, 73, 86— water, 74 Ullhouse, XV. Shetland, 57 Ulston, village of, iii Roxbnigh, 18 Ulva isle, vii Aigyle, 340, 345— house, S49—quo nark, 400 Wester Markhouse, xi. For&r, 200 Wester Mo^s, iii. Roxburgh, 222 Wester Mosshat, coal at, vi. Lanark, 8 1 Wester Ogle house, xi. Forfar, 200 Wester Pencaitland, village and cross o^ ii Haddington, 350 Wester Rarichie, spring at, xiv. Rosa, 21 Wester Ross fkmiers^ association, xiv. Ross, 288 Wetiter Rossland, remains found at, Tii Renfrew, "olS Westerside, cairns at, xiii Banff, 254 Westerton house, xiii Elgin, 10 — plan- tations at, 3 Westerton of Kinglands quarry, x. Perth, 428— tumulus, 434 Wester Watten, improvements at, xv. Caithness, 55 Westerwood, ironstone pits, &c. at, viii Dunbarton, 136, 180 — Roman fort at, 152 Whalefirth voe, xv. Shetland, 83 VV'halsay isle, xv. Shetland, 53 — church, 55— house and sound, 54 Whapple bay, iv. Wigton, 23 Wharral loch, xi. Foriar, 436 Whauk bum, xi Forfar, 393 Wheatrig, propertv of, ii. Haddington, 181 Whifflet collieries, &c. vi. Lanark, 645, 648 Whig hole, the, iv. Kirkcudbright, 371 OXNEBAL USfBBX. cxlix Whim, loch at, lii. Peebles, 136 Whinny hUl, ix. Fife, 696 Whinnyeon loch, iv. Kirkcudbright 39, 292 Whinnyfbld, village of, xii. Aberdeen, 979 WhinnyhaJl quarry, ix. Fife, 406 Whinnyligget, Roman camp at, iv. Kirk- cudbright, 20 Whinnyrigg hill, ir. Dumfries, 206 Whirly Kip, cairn, &c. at, ix. Fife, 601 Whisgills, cairn at, iii Roxburgh, 444 Whistieberry castle, ruins of, xL Kincar- dine, 314---Iimestone at, 310 Whitadder water, ii. Berwick, 94, 99, 100, 106, 113, 115, 124, 150, 248,261,267, 338, 366, Haddington, 55 Whitberry point, ii. Haddington, 31 Whitbuigh house, ii. Haddington, 102— property, 101 — Roman camp at, 275 Whitburn, parish of, ii. Linlithgow, 66 White bog, drainage of, x. Perth, 721 White cairn of Camannock, ?. Ayr, 816 White cairn of Dairy, iv. Kirkcudbright, 370 White castle, the, xiv. Inverness, 152 White cave of Slains, xii. Aberdeen, 589 White cove of Rerrick, iv. Kirkcudbright, 356 White hills, the, xiii. Banff, 5, 223 White loch, Blairgowrie, x. Perth, 903 White loch, Camwath, vi. Lanark, 77, 945 White loch, Meams, v. Ayr, 728, vii. Renfrew, 516 White sheets of Sidlaw hiUs, xi For&r, 648 "^^liite water, see Whitadder White water of Clova, xL Forfar, 436 Whitebum, marl at, ii. Berwick, 66 Whitecamp, Roman camp at, vL Lanark, 331 White Cart river, vi. Lanark, 598, 879, 880, vii. Renfrew, 2, 34, 47, 115, 145, 383, 385, 516, 537 Whitecastle know, British camp on, iv. Dumfries. 184 Whitecastle, ruins of, ii. Haddington, 96 ' Whitecastle hill, vi. Lanark, 518, 520— plantations, 45 Whitechapel, ruins of, iL Berwick, 71 Whitecleugh, coal at, vi. Lanark, 500— quarry, 510 Whitecoom hill, iv. Dumfries, 103 Whitecraig quarry, xi. Kincardine, 284, 289 White £sk water, iv. Dumfries, 398, 409, 430 Whiteflat colliery, vi. Lanark, 64 5— iron- stone pit, 648 Whiteford, property of, vii. Renfrew, 197 Whitefriars^ monastery, Dunbar, ii. Had- dington, 79 Whitefriars^ monastery, Fearn, 3dv. Ross, 440 Whitefriars^ monastery, Perth, x. Perth, 64 Whitehall woods, iL Berwick, 126 Whitehall, cascade at, iv. Dumfries, 54 Whitehall, Dundee, xi. Forfar, 16 Whitehaugh house and property, xii. Aberdeen, 447 Whitehaugh water, v. Ayr, 149 Whitehaugh plantations, iiL Roxburgh, 441 Whitehill, coins found at, v. A3rr, 517 . Whitehill, property of, xiii Banff, 284, 287 Whitehill, ironstone at, iv. Diunfries, 206 —quarry, 208 Whitehill, village of, i. Edinburgh, 500, 501, 510— house, 611— improvements at, 613 Whitehill cottage, ix. Fife, 718 Whitehill, village o^ xi. Kincardine, 285 Whitehill, Roman camp at, vi. Lanark, 817— ruins at, 819 Whitehill collieries, iii. Peebles, 120 Whitehills, village o^xiiu Banff, 231, 236, 238 Whitehills moss, coins found at, iv. Dum- fries, 386 WhitehiUs castle, ruins of, xi. For&r, 396 Whiteholm, Druidical remains at, iv. Dumfries, 198 WHiitehope house, iii. Selkirk, 38 Whitehouse, remains at, xii. Aberdeen, 613 Whitehouse of Arran, the, v. Bute, 5 White Inch, improvements at, vi Lanark, 695 Whitekirk hill, ii Haddington, 29 Whitekirk and Tjmninghame, united par rishes of, ii Haddington, 29 Whiteknow house, iv. Dumfries, 538 \VTiitelaw hill, iii Roxburgh, 448 Whitelets, village of, v. Ayr, 122 Whitemill point, xv. Orkney, 85 Whitemire, village of, xiii Elgin, 226 WhitemosB house, vi Lanark, 889 Whitemoss loch, x. Perth, 716 Whiten head, xv. Sutherland, 167 — rocks at, 85, 87 Whiteness head, xv. Inverness, 463 Whiteness, annexed parish of, xv. Shet- land, 59 — voe, 69 Whiteridge collieries, vi. Lanark, 243 Whiteriggs bridge, xi. Kincardine, 163 — house, 28 Whiterigs house and property, ii. Bei> wick, 1 36 Whiteshaw, property of, vi. Lanark, 579 Whiteshaw bridge, coal at, vi. Lanark, 567 Whiteside, Druidical remains at, xii. Aberdeen, 450 Whiteside hill, camp on, iii. Peebles, 1 37 Whitestone bridge, xi. Kincardine, 240—- inn, 243 Whitewell house, xi. Forfiur, 200 White Woollen hill, iv. Dumfries, 451 White Wynd hiU, iv. Dumfries, 45J Whitfield Hmeworks, iii. Peebles^ U^t cl GEHB&AL IHBSZ. Whithorn, pariah of, iv. Wigton, 52 — iale, 53 — priory, 6, 54— town, 54 Whiting bay, r. Bute, 5 Wliiting nesB, xL Forfiu-, 491, 494 Whitock, ironstone at, ▼. Ayr, 326 Whitalaid loch, iii. Roxburgh, 270 Whitalaid, property of; ii Berwick, 351 — tower, ruins of, 353 Whitalaid, improTemeata at, iiL Peebles, 91 Whitaome hill, ii Berwick, 176 — rill^, 169, 172, 176 Whitaome and Hilton, united pariahes of, ii. Berwick, 166 Whittadder, aee Whitader \Vhittingham, pariah of, ii Haddington, 61— caatle, 63, 65— village, 61, 67, 68 — water, 61 Whittlebum, improvementa at, v. Ayr, 803 Whjmtie, remains at, xiii Banff, 226 Whytbanklee, village of; i. Edinburgh, 423 Wia isle, xiv. Invemeas, 182, 296 Wick bay, xv. Caithneaa, 117, 118, 119 —parish and town, 117 — fisheries, 153 —head, 118, 119— water, 123 Wick bay, Unst, xv. Shetland, 38— bu- rial ground at, 40 Wicketahaw, property of, vi. Lanark, 578 Wideford hiU, xv. Orkney, 1 Wide Open pass, xi. Kincardine, 298 Wide Open house, iii. Roxburgh, 146 Widewall bav, xv. Orknev, 193 Wigton parish and town, iv. Wigtoh, 1 — bay, 1, 10, 11, 24,52, 220, i v. Kirk- cudbright, 316, 373 — castle, ruins of, Wigton, 2 — monastery, 3 Wigtonshire, observations on, iv. Wigton, '218 Wildcat road, v. Ayr, 247 Wilderness, ironstone pits at, vi. Lanark, 648— wood, 403 Wildshaw quarry, vi. Lanark, 510 Wilkhouse, remains at, xv. Sutherland, 200 Wilkieston, village of, i. Edinburgh, 445 Williamfield house, v. Ayr, 567 William, Fort, see Fort William Williamsburgh, village of, vii. Renfrew, 200 Williamslea hill, iii. Peebles, 25 Williamwath ford, iv. Dumfries, 206 Willow isle, iv. Dumfries, 60 Willowy ard, coal at, v. Ayr, 573 — quarrv, 675 Wilson's free school, Banff, xiii. Banff, 55 Wilsoiitown ironworks, vi. Lanark, 78— village, 90 Wilton, jmrish of, iii. Roxburgh, 76 — vil- lage, «1, 407 Winchburgh, village of, i. Edinburgh, 1 39 Windbrugh hill, iii. Roxburgh, 208, 210 —loch, 209 Windford lock, viii. Dvinbarton, 203 Windgate houae, ri. Lanark, 819 Windhead hill, iiL Roxbm^ 44 1 Windleatrae law, 1. Edinbaig^, 404, vL Peebles, 27, 29 Windmill hill quarry, vi Lanark, 446«— viUage, 467 Windaard, lawhiU of, xi Forfiu*, 314 Windy hills, xii Aberdeen, 316 Windrdoora caatte, minao^ i Edinbmgli, 418' Wine tower, mina of; xii Aberdeen, 251 WingiU bank, vi Lanark, 806 Winleaa loch and bom, xv. Caithneaa, 123 Winnoch loch, v. Ayr, 692 Winter b«m, vi Lanark, 848 Winterhope hill, iv. Dumfriea, 276 Winthaak quarry, ix. Fife, 305 Winton, property of, ii Haddington, 290 — house, ruins of, 48 — plantationa, 347 Wiras bum, xi Forfiur, 519 Wirrens hill, xi Forfar, 688 Wishaw collierv, vi Lanark, 610 — dia- tiUery,t5. 622— houae, 444, 615,616, 957 — tileworks, 611 — and Coltneaa railway, 446, 664, 798 Wishawton, village of, vi Lanark, 621 Wisp hill, viii Clackinannan, 77 Wisp hill, iii. Roxburgh, 426, 427 Wiston, village o^ vi Lanark, 95, 98 Wiston and Roberton, united parishes of, vi. Lanark, 93 Witch's know, Mordington, ii Berwick, 338 Witch know, remains found at, x. Perth, 282 Witch lake, ix. Fife, 456 Woden den, iii Roxburgh, 303, 305 ^^'olf Clyde, scenery of, vi. Lanark, 342 — moat at, 346 Wolf hill, village of, x. Perth, 1171 Wolflaw, property of, xi. Forfar, 294, 302 Wolflee, improvements at, iii. Roxburgh, 217 Wolfrod, limestone at, vi. Lanark, 82 Wolfs bum, tradition regarding, xv. Caith- ness, 24 Wolfs cleuch, the, i. Edinburgh, 202 Woll bum, iii. Selkirk, 1 — plantationa, Roxburgh, 272 Wood house, vi. Lanark, 278 Wood bum house, i. Edinburgh, 69 Woodbum den, xi. Kincardine, 23 Woodcockair liill, iv. Dumfries, 290, 517 Woodcot house, i. Edinburgh, 535 Wooden, den of, iii. Roxburgh, 303, 305 — hill, 220 — Roman camp on it, 197 — house, 320 — plantations, 327 — tower, ruins of, 223 Woodend, property of, xi. Kincardine, 325 Woodend, trees at, vi. Lanark, 825 — hill, camp on, 817 — loch, 642 Woodend, factory at, x. Perth, 154— house, 749, 938 QENEBAL IKDBX. cU Woodend, remains found at, vii. Renfrew, 503 Woodgate, remains found at, viii Stirling, 122 Woodhall house, u Edinburgh, 111 Woodhall loch, iv. Kirkcudbright, 179 Woodhall collieries, vi. Lanark, 775 — * ironstone at, ib. — house, ih. 783, 958 Woodhaven ferry, ix. Fife, 512 — ^harbour, 506, 514 Woodhead, chapel at, xii. Aberdeen, 339 Woodhead, improvements at, viii. Dun- barton, 198 Woodhead, cairns, &c. at, xiv. Ross, 45 Woodhead, plantations at, viii. Stirling, 237, 254 Woodhill hill, iv. Dumfries, 67 Woodhill quarry, ix. Fife, 840 Woodhill, remains on, iii. Peebles, 117 Woodhill house, x. Perth, 787 Woodhill, silver mine at, \'iii. Stirling, 178, 181, 182, W7 Woodhouse tower, ruins ot, iv. Dumfries, 278 Woodhouse hill, camp on, iii. Peebles, 116 Woodhouselces orchards, iv. Dumfries, 488— house, 491— tower, ruins of, 490 Woodhouselees, plantations at, i. Edin- burgh, 313 Woodkin well, iv. Dumfries, 452 Woodland hill, British camp on, v. Ayr, 273 Woodlands colliery, viii. Clackmannan, 69 Woodlands house, xi. Forfar, 498 Woodley plantations, iL Haddington, 238 Woodmill, limestone at, viiu Dunbaiton, 181 Woodneuk, Druidical temple ut, iv. Dum- fries, 559 Woodside house, xiL Aberdeen, 1076— quoad $acra parish of, 1077 — village, 1075 Woodside limeworks, v. Ayr, 572 — pro- perty, 585 Woodside, cairn at, xiii. Banff, 254 Woodside, village of, iv. Dumfries, 447 Woodside, village of, ix. Fife, 442 Woodside colliery, vL Lanark, 728 Woodside village of, x. Perth, 1171 Woodside, property of, viL Renfrew, 197 Woodside hill, iii. Roxburgh, 448— house, 320— library, 437 Woodside house, viii Stirling, 362 Woodslee house, iv. Dumfries, 491 Woodston hill, xi. Kincardine, 270 — plan- tations, 279— quarry, 89, 289 Woodton, improvements at, xL Kincar- dine, 122 Woodtop lime quarry, ix. Fife, 520 Woodvillc house, i. Edinburgh, 1 1 1 Wood wick bay, xv. Orkney, 197— ^marl at, 199 Woodwick bay and isle, xv. Shetland, 38 Woolmet, suppressed parish of, i. Edin- burgh, 561— house, 569— village, 570, 575 Wormington, tradition regarding, iiL Rox- burgh, 150 Wormiston, camp at, iii. Peebles, 147 Wormistone house, ix. Fife, 951— plan- tatioTis &t 94 5 Worrait hay, ix. Fife, 506, 578— den, 578 Wormwell hiU, iii. Peebles, 79 Wormyhills bleachfield, xi. Forfar, 333 Wrae, quarries at, iiL Peebles, 92 Wrath, cape, xv. Sutherland, 84, 85, 86, 87— lighthouse, 94 Wreaths castle, ruins of^ iv. Kirkcudbright, 238 Wuddy law, tumulus on, xi. Forfar, 399 Wyesbie hill, well at, iv. Dumfries, 276— house, 278« 280 Wymet, see Woolmet Wj-ms, village of, vii. Argyle, 652, 655 Wyndford loch, viii. Dunbarton, 151— minerals at, 1 80 Wynncficld plantations, ii. Berwick, 167 Wynnie water, x. Perth, 426, Wyvis, Ben, xiv., Ross,211, 212, 244, 318 Wyre isle, xv. Orkney 196 Yaiken liank, the, kiii. Banff, 98 Yardside, ferm of, v. Ayr, 606 Yarrow, pariah of, iiL Selkirk, 29 — water, 2, 36, 79 Yarrowford, village of, iii. Selkirk, 53 Yarrows hills, xv. Caithness, 119 — cairns on, 137— loch, 124 Yell island, xv. Shetland, 23, 82— sound, 56, 82 Yerk tower, xiiL Elgin, 102 Yerrick bum, iv. Kirkcudbright, 146 Ycskenably, ruins of church at, xv. Ork- ney, 53 Yesker isle, xiv. Inverness, 240 Yester, parish of, iL Haddington, 153— castle, 157— heuse, 165 Yetholm, parish of, iiL Roxburgh, 159*- common, 170 — law, 161 — remains on it, 163— loch, 160, 450— villages, 159 Yetts of Muckart, viii. Clackmannan, 69, X, Perth, 301 Yew trees, rise of the Forth at, x. Perth, 1162 Yieldshields limeworks, vi. Lanark, 570— village, 592 Yoker, village of, viiL Dunbarton, 15, 29 YonbeU hiU, xv. Orkney, 42 Yoolfield spinning mills, ix. Fife, 724 Ythan river, xiL Aberdeen. 131, 286, 317, 589, 591, 599, 667, 698, 800, 802, 900, 901, 963— lodge, 698 Ythsie, cairns at, xiL Aberdeen, 669 BDINBURUH *. 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