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WHILE serving as a member of
the Commission for the regulation of the similar Danube, he was further
requested by His Excellency M. Mailath, Chancellor of Hungary, to inspect
and report upon the regulation of the River Theiss, a large river which,
flowing in a depressed bed through the centre of that country, acted as a
drain in dry weather, depriving the land of moisture, but during periods of
flood, owing to a deficiency of sectional area, causing extensive
inundations in the districts of country near Pesth, and more especially
further southwards, near the town of Szegedin. Accompanied by Major Ghyczy,
an officer of the Imperial Engineers, who spoke English fluently, the two
ourneyed from Vienna to Buda, through the treeless plains inhabited by
peasantry clad in sheepskin dresses and highjack boots, which enable them to
wade through the deep mud in wet weather, the surface of the roads being for
the most part alluvial soil, entirely destitute of stones or any hard
materials. Even in the larger villages the inhabitants were chiefly of the
same peasant class, the exceptions being government officials, doctors, and
priests. Railway facilities were afforded to Pesth, Szegedin and Debreczin,
but long distances were traversed in the small springless wagons of the
country, from which the travellers alighted at nightfall to take up quarters
at the post houses, which were almost exclusively in the hands of Jewish
postmasters, who offered very indifferent food and viands, and sorry looking
horses to further the journey in the day time. On one particular evening
(Jan. 28th, i8y6), difficulties overtook them by a collapse of the animal
drawing the vehicle, in an out of the way district, and the discomfort of a
night spent under the canopy of heaven seemed to be threatening as their
lot, when they obtained the information that there was the chateau of a
Hungarian gentleman close at hand. At that time, however, there was
considerable estrangement between the Austrians and Hungarians, and Major
Ghyczy being an Austrian officer, had considerable misgivings as to
ajppealing to the hospitality of the owner of the chateau, but as the former
could speak the Hungarian dialect the venture was made and with a successful
issue. They were kindly welcomed and partook of a good supper and spent an
enjoyable and interesting evening with their host, while the engineer's
limited command of French enabled h'm to converse with the intelligent
hostess. Good horses were put at their disposal >n the morning, and
accompanied by their host on horseback for several miles, they proceeded to
the isolated hill and village of Tokay, by the River Theiss, which was
reached in a snowstorm, and quarters obtained at the house of a government
official. This gentleman was also a wine producer, and provided some samples
of the capability of the vines in his district. Three days later they had
again got as far south as Szedegin, from which town they returned to Pesth,
staying at the Hotel Queen Victoria. That town, like Vienna, was in a
transitional state, fine new streets and buildings in course of progress,
which presented a striking contrast to the ancient quarters of the Turk at
the ancient city of Altiofen or Buda on the right bank of the River Danube.
While staying at Pesth his diary records introductions to several leading
Hungarians, among others Counts Bathyani and Schenzi, and a leading
politician, M. Deak.
The result of the visit to
the region traversed by the river Theiss, was in the cause of irrigation,
the recommendation of a new canal eighty miles in length, from Loh to the
river Koros, previously advocated by M. Herrick, engineer, of Buda. Upon
returning to Vienna, General Baron Scholl escorted the English
representative on the commission to the Island of Lobau, Napoleon the
First’s position previous to his sudden appearance on the mainland on the
morning before the battle of Wagram on 6th July, 1809, in which he defeated
the Archduke Charles. Before leaving the city of Vienna, the members of the
commission were entertained by some of the city authorities in the old Town
Hall, which contained many relics of the Turkish army of 200,000 men, under
the command of the Grand Vizier, Kara Mustapha, defeated and driven from the
walls by the Duke of Lorraine and John Sobieski in 1683.
A friendship of a more
lasting charactcr was made at this time with Field-Marshal Baron Jochmus, a
remarkably handsome man and of great stature. When resident in London he
occasionally came to dine at 11, Prince of Wales Terrace, Kensington. Baron
Scholl, too, was a frequent guest there, between the years 1866—8, and
occasionally English officers were invited to meet them, among others the
author can re-call Colonel Jervois R.E., now Sir William Jervois, K.C.B. |
