A JOURNEY TO THE WESTERN ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND by Samuel Johnson
In the morning we viewed the fort, which is much
less than that of St. George, and is said to be commanded by the neighbouring hills.
It was not long ago taken by the Highlanders. But its situation seems well
chosen for pleasure, if not for strength; it stands at the head of the lake, and, by a
sloop of sixty tuns, is supplied from Inverness with great convenience.
We were now to cross the Highlands towards the western coast, and to
content ourselves with such accommodations, as a way so little frequented could afford.
The journey was not formidable, for it was but of two days, very unequally divided,
because the only house, where we could be entertained, was not further off than a third of
the way. We soon came to a high hill, which we mounted by a military road, cut in
traverses, so that as we went upon a higher stage, we saw the baggage following us below
in a contrary direction. To make this way, the rock has been hewn to a level with labour
that might have broken the perseverance of a Roman legion.
The country is totally denuded of its wood, but the stumps both of
oaks and firs, which are still found, shew that it has been once a forest of large timber.
I do not remember that we saw any animals, but we were told that, in the mountains, there
are stags, roebucks, goats and rabbits.
We did not perceive that this tract was possessed by human beings,
except that once we saw a corn field, in which a lady was walking with some gentlemen.
Their house was certainly at no great distance, but so situated that we could not descry
Passing on through the dreariness of solitude, we found a party of
soldiers from the fort, working on the road, under the superintendence of a serjeant. We
told them how kindly we had been treated at the garrison, and as we were enjoying the
benefit of their labours, begged leave to shew our gratitude by a small present.
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