On Board the Royal George Yacht
Monday, August 29, 1842.
At five o’clock in the morning we left Windsor for
the railroad, the Duchess of Norfolk, Miss Matilda Paget, General
Wemyss, Colonel Bouverie, and Mr. Anson following us. -Lord
Liverpool, Lord Morton, and Sir James Clark, who also accompany us,
had already gone on to Woolwich.
We reached London at a quarter to six, got into our
carriages, and arrived at Woolwich before seven. Albert and I
immediately stepped into our barge. There was a large crowd to see
us embark. The Duke of Cambridge, Lord Jersey, Lord Haddington, Lord
Bloomfield, and Sir George Cockbum were present in full uniform. Sir
George handed me into the barge. It was raining very hard when we
got on board, and therefore we remained in our sitting-room.
I annex a list of our squadron :—
1. The ship “Pique,” 36 guns.
2. The sloop “Daphne,” 18 guns—(both of which join us at the More).
3. The steam-vessel “Salamander” (with the carriages on board).
4. The steam-vessel “Rhadamanthus” (Lord Liverpool and Lord Morton
5. The steam-vessel “Monkey" Tender, which has towed us till nine
o’clock (Mr. Anson and the equerries on board).
6. The steam-vessel “Shearwater,” which is now towing us (Sir James
Clark on board).
7. The steam-vessel “Black Eagle” (which has the ladies on board,
and which tows us in front of the “Shearwater”).
8. The steam-vessel “Lightning” (with the Jager Benda, and our two
clogs, “ Eos" and “Cairnach,” on board) ’in front, which has gone to
take our barge on board from the “Pique.”
9. The steam-vessel “Fearless” (for survey).
This composes our squadron, besides which the
Trinity-House steamer goes with us, and, also, a packet. Innumerable
little pleasure steamboats have been following us covered with
Tuesday, August 30.
We heard, to our great distress, that we had only
gone 58 miles since eight o’clock last night. How annoying and
provoking this is! We remained on deck all day lying on sofas; the
sea wras very rough towards evening, and I was very ill. We reached Flamborough
Head on the Yorkshire coast by half-past five.
Wednesday, August 31.
At five o’clock in the morning we heard, to our great
vexation, that we had only been going three knots an hour in the
night, and were 30 miles from St. Abb's Head.
We passed Coquet Island and Bamborough Castle on the
Northumberland coast, which I was unfortunately unable to see; but
from my cabin I saw Feme Island, with Grace Darling’s lighthouse on
it; also Rocky Islanas and Holy Island. At half-past five I went on
deck, and ’immediately lay down. We then came in sight of the Scotch
coast, which is very beautiful, so dark, rocky, bold, and wild,
totally unlike our coast. We passed St. Abb's Head at half past six.
Numbers of fishing boats (in one of which was a piper playing) and
steamers full of people came out to meet us, and on board of one
large steamer they danced a reel to a band. It was a beautiful
evening, calm, with a fine sunset, and the air so pure.
One cannot help noticing how much longer the days are
here than they were in England. It was not really dark till past
eight o’clock, and on Monday and Tuesday evening at Windsor it was
nearly dark by half-past seven, quite so before eight. The men
begged leave to dance, which they did to the sound of a violin
played by a little sailor-boy; they also sang.
We remained on deck till twenty-five minutes to nine,
and saw many bonfires on the Scotch coast—at Dunbar -—Lord
Haddington’s place, Tyninghame, and at other points on the coast. We
let off four rockets, and burned two blue lights. It is surprising
to see the sailors climb on the bowsprit and up to the top of the
mast head—this too at all times of the day and night. The man who
carried the lantern to the main top ran up with it in his mouth to
the top. They are so handy and so well conducted.
We felt most thankful and happy that we were near our
Thursday, September 1.
At a quarter to one o’clock, we heard the anchor let
down—a welcome sound. At seven we went on deck, where we
breakfasted. Close on one side were Leith and the high hills
towering over Edinburgh, which was in fog; and on the other side was
to be seen the Isle of May (where it is said Macduff held out
against Macbeth) the Bass Rock being behind us. At ten minutes past
eight we arrived at Grant on Tier, where we were met by the Duke of
Buccleuch, Sir Robert Peel and others. They came on board to see us,
and Sir Robert told us that the people were all in the highest good-humour,
though naturally a little disappointed at having waited for us
yesterday. We then stepped over a gangway on to the pier, the people
cheering, and the Duke saying that he begged to be allowed to
welcome us. Our ladies and gentlemen had landed before us, safe and
well, and we two got into a barouche, the ladies and gentlemen
following. The Duke, the equerries, and Mr. Anson rode.
There were, however, not nearly so many people
in Edinburgh, though the crowd and crush were such that one was
really continually in fear of accidents. More regularity and order
would have been preserved had there not been some mistake on the
part of the Provost about giving due notice of our approach. The
impression Edinburgh has made upon us is very great; it is quite
beautiful, totally unlike anything else I have seen ; and what is
even more, Albert, who has seen so much, says it is unlike
anything he ever saw; it is so regular, everything built of massive
stone, there is not a brick to be seen anywhere. The High
Street, which is pretty steep, is very line. Then the Castle,
situated on that grand rock in the middle of the town, is most
striking. On the other side the Calton Hill, with the National
Monument, a building in the Grecian style; Nelson's Monument; Burns'
Monument; the Gaol; the National School, &c., all magnificent
buildings, and with Arthur’s Seat in the background, overtopping the
whole, form altogether a splendid spectacle. The enthusiasm was very
great, and the people very friendly and kind. The Royal Archers Body
Guardmet us and walked with us the whole way through the town. It is
composed entirely of noblemen and gentlemen, and they all walked
close by the carriage; but were dreadfully pushed about. Amongst
them were the Duke of Roxburgh and Lord Elcho on my side; and Sir J.
Hope on Albert’s side. Lord Elcho (whom I did not know at the time)
pointed out the various monuments and places to me as we came along.
When we were out of the town, we went faster. Every cottage is built
of stone, and so are all the walls that are used as fences.
The country and people have quite a different
character from England and the English. The old women wear close
caps, and all the children and girls are barefooted. I saw several
handsome girls and children with long hair; indeed all the poor
girls from sixteen and seventeen down to two or three years old,
have loose flowing hair; a great deal of it red.
As we came along we saw Craigmillar Castle, a ruin,
where Mary, Queen of Scots, used to live. We reached Dalkeith at
eleven ; a large house, constructed of reddish stone, the greater
part built by the Duchess of Monmouth, and the park is very fine and
large. The house has three fronts, with the entrance on the left as
you drive up. The Duchess of Buccleuch arrived directly after us,
and we were shown up a very handsome staircase to our room'-, which
are very comfortable. Wc both felt dreadfully tired and giddy.
We drove out together. The park is very extensive,
with a beautiful v iew of Arthur's Seat and the Pentland Hills; anti
there is a pretty drive overhanging a deep valley. At eight we
dined—a large party. Everybody was very kind and civil, and full of
inquiries as to our voyage.
Dalkeith House, Friday, September 2.
At breakfast I tasted the oatmeal porridge, which I
think very good, and also some of the “Finnan haddies.” We then
walked out. The pleasure-grounds seem very extensive and beautiful,
wild and hilly. We walked down along the stream (the river Esk), up
a steep bank to a little cottage, and came home by the upper part of
the walk. At four o’clock we drove out with the Duchess of Buccleuch
and the Duchess of Norfolk—the Duke and equerries riding—the others
in another carriage. We drove through Dalkeith, which was full of
people, all running and cheering.
Albert says that many of the people look like
Germans, The old women with that kind of cap which they call a
“mutch,” and the young girls and children with flowing hair, and
many of them pretty, are very picturesque; you hardly see any women
Such a thick “Scotch mist” came on that we wrert
obliged to drive home through the village of Lasswade, and through
Lord Melville’s Park, which is very fine.
Saturday, September 3.
At ten o’clock we set off—we two in the barouche— all
the others following, for Edinburgh. We drove in under Arthur's
Seat, where the crowd began to be very great, and here the Guard of
Royal Archers met us; Lord Elcho walking near me, and the Duke of
Roxburgh and Sir J. Hope on Albert’s side. We passed by -Holyrood
Clwpel, which is very old and full of interest, and Holyrood
Palace, a royal-looking old place. The procession moved through
the Old Town up the High Street, which is a most extraordinary
street from the immense height of the houses, most of them being
eleven stories high, and different families living in each story.
Every window was crammed full of people. They showed us Knox's
House, a curious old building, as is also the Regent Murray’s
House, which is in perfect preservation. In the Old Town the High
Church, and St. Paul's in the New Town, are very fine buildings. At"
the barrier, the Provost presented us with the keys.
The girls of the Orphan Asylum, and the Trades in old
costumes, were on a platform. Further on was the New Church, to
which—strange to say, as the church is nearly finished—they were
going to lay the foundation stone. We at length reached the Castle,
to the top of which we walked.
The view from both batteries is splendid, like a
panorama in extent. We saw from them Heriot's Hospital, a beautiful
old building, founded, in the time of James, by a goldsmith and
jeweller, whom Sir Walter Scott has made famous in his Fortunes of
Nigel. After this, we got again into the carriages and proceeded in
the same way as before, the pressure of the crowd being really quite
alarming; and both I and Albert were quite terri fied for the
Archers Guard, who had very hard work of it; but were of the
greatest use. They all carry a bow in one hand, and have their
arrows stuck through their belts.
Unfortunately, as soon as we were out
of Edinburgh, it began to rain, and continued raining the whole
afternoon without interruption. We reached Dalmeny, Lord
Roseberry’s. at two o’clock. The park is beautiful, with the trees
growing down to the sea. It commands a very fine view of
the Forth, the Isle of May, the Bass Rock, and of Edinburgh; but the
mist rendered it almost impossible to see anything. The grounds are
very extensive, being hill and dale and wood. The house is quite
modem: Lord Roseberry built it, and it is very pretty and
comfortable. We lunched there. The Roseberrys were all civility and
attention. We left them about half-past three, and proceeded home
The view of Edinburgh from the road before you enter Leith is
quite enchanting; it is, as Albert said, “fairy-like,” and what you
would only imagine as a thing to dream of, or to see in a picture.
There was that beautiful large town, all of stone (no mingled
colours of brick to mar it), with the bold Castle on one side, and
the Calton Hill on the other, with those high sharp hills
of Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Cragstowering above all, and making
the finest, boldest background imaginable. Albert said he felt sure
the Acropolis could not be finer; and I hear they sometimes
call Edinburgh “the modern Athens.” The Archers Guard met us again
at Leith, which is not a pretty town.
The people were most enthusiastic, and the crowd very
great. The Porters all mounted, with curious Scotch caps, and their
horses decorated with flowers, had a very singular effect; but the
fishwomen are the most striking-looking people, and are generally
young and pretty women—very clean and very Dutch-looking, with their
white caps and bright-coloured petticoats. They never marry out of
At six we returned well tired.
Sunday, September 4.
We walked to see the new garden which is being made,
and saw Mackintosh there, who was formerly gardener
at Claremont. The view of .Dalkeith (the village, or rather town)
from thence is extremely picturesque, and Albert says very
German-looking. We returned over a rough sort of bridge, made only
of planks, which crosses the Esk, and which, with the wooded banks
on each side, is excessively pretty. Received from Lady Lyttelton
good accounts of our little children. At twelve o’clock there were
prayers in the house, read by Mr. Ramsay, who also preached.
At half-past four the Duchess drove me out in her own
phaeton, with a very pretty pair of chestnut ponies, Albert riding
with the Duke and Colonel Bouverie. We drove through parts of the
park, through an old wood, and along the banks of the South Esk and
the North Esk, which meet at a point from which there is such a
beautiful view of the Pentland Hills. Then we drove, by a private
road, to Newbattle, Lord Lothian’s place. The park is very fine, and
the house seems large; we got out to look at a most magnificent
beech-tree. The South Esk runs close before the house, by a richly
From thence we went to Dalhousie, Lord Dalhousie’s.
The house is a real old Scotch castle, of reddish stone. We . got
out for a moment, and the Dalhousies showed us the drawing room.
From the window you see a beautiful wooded valley, and a peep of the
Lord Dalhousie said there had been no British
sovereign there since Henry IV. We drove home by the same way that
we came. The evening was- -as the whole day had been—-clear, bright,
and frosty, and the Moorfoot Hills (another range) looked beautiful
as we were returning. It was past seven when we get home.
Monday, September 5.
I held a Drawing-room at Dalkeith to-day, in the
gallery. The Ministers and Scotch Officers of State were in the
room, and the Royal Archers were in attendance in the room and
outside of it, like the Gentlemen at Arms in London. Before the
Drawing room I received three addresses—from the Lord Provost and
Magistrates, from the Scotch Church, and from the Universities
of St. Andrews, Glasgow, and Edinburgh— to which I read answers.
Albert received his just after I did mine, and read his answers
Tuesday, September 6.
At nine o’clock we left Dalkeith as we came. It was a
bright, clear, cold, frosty morning. As we drove along we saw the Pentlands,
which looked beautiful, as did also Arthur’s Seat, which we passed
quite close by. The Salisbury Crags, too, are very high, bold, and
sharp. Before this we saw Craigmillar. We passed through a back part
of the tow n (which is most solidly built), close by Heriots
Hospital, and had a very fine view of the Castle.
I forgot to say that, when we visited the Castle, we
saw the Regalia, which are very old and curious (they were lost for
one hundred years); also the room in which James VI. of Scotland and
the First of England was born—such a very, very small room, with an
old prayer written on the wall. We had a beautiful view
of Edinburgh and the Forth. At Craigleith (only a half-way
house, nine miles) we changed horses. The Duke rode
with us all the way as Lord Lieutenant of the county, until we
arrived at Dalmeny, where Lord Hopetoun met us and rode with us. At
eleven we reached the South Queensferry, where we gut out of our
carriage and embarked in a little steamer; the ladies and gentlemen
and our carriages going in another. We went a little way up
the Forth, to see Hopetoun House, I.ord Hopetoun’s, which is
beautifully situated between Hopetoun and Dalmeny. We also saw Dundas
Castle, belonging to Dundas of Dundas, and further on, beyond Hopetoun,
Blackness Castle, famous in history. On the opposite side you see a
square tower, close to the water, called Rosyth, where Oliver
Cromwell’s mother was said to have been bom, and in the distance Dunfermline, where
Robert Bruce is buried. We passed close by a very pretty island in
the Forth, with an old castle on it, called Inchgarrie; and we could
see the Forth winding beautifully, and had a distant glimpse
of Edinburgh and its fine Castle. We landed safely on the other
side, at North Queensferry, and got into our carriages. Captain
Wemyss, elder brother to General Wemyss, rode with us all the way
beyond Cowdenbeath (eight miles). The first village we passed
through on leaving the Queensferry, was Inverkeithing. We passed by
Sir R. Durham’s property.
We changed horses at Cowdenbeath. At a quarter-past
one we entered Kinross-shire. Soon after, the country grew prettier,
and the hills appeared again, partly wooded. We passed loch lei'en, and
saw the castle on the lake from which poor Queen Mary escaped. There
the country is rather flat, and the hills are only on one side. We
changed horses next at Kinross. Soon after this, the mountains,
which are rather barren, began to appear.
Then we passed the valley of Glen Farg; the hills are
very high on each side, and completely wooded down to the bottom of
the valley, where a small stream runs on one side of the road—it is
On leaving this valley you come upon a beautiful view
of Sirathearn and Moncrieffe Hill. We were then in Perthshire. We
changed horses next at the Bridge of Earn (12 miles). At half-past
three we reached Duff tin, Lord Kinnouli’s. All the time the views
of the hills, and dales, and streams were lovely. The last part of
the road very bad travelling, up and down hill. Dufftin is a very
fine modern house, with a very pretty view of the hills on one side,
and a small waterfall close in front of the house. A battalion of
the 42nd Highlanders was drawn up before the house, and the men
looked very handsome in their kilts. We each received an address
from the nobility and gentry of the county, read by Lord Kinnoull;
and from the Provost and Magistrates of Perth. We then lunched. The
Willoughbys, Kinnairds, Ruthvens, and Lord Mansfield, and one of his
sisters, with others, were there. After luncheon, we walked a little
way in the grounds, and then at five o’clock we set off again. We
very soon came upon Perth, the situation of which is quite lovely;
it is on the Tay, with wooded hills skirting it entirely on one
side, and hills are seen again in the distance, the river winding
Albert was charmed, and said it put him in mind of
the situation of Bask. The town itself (which is very pretty) was
immensely crowded, and the people very enthusiastic; triumphal
arches had been erected in various places. The Provost presented me
with the keys, and Albert with the freedom of the city. Two miles
beyond is Scone (Lord Mansfield’s), a fine-looking house of reddish
Lord Mansfield and the Dowager Lady Mansfield
received us at the door, and took us to our rooms, which were very
Wednesday, September 7.
We walked out, and saw the mound on which the ancient
Scotch kings were always crowned; also the old arch with James VI.’s
arms, and the old cross, which is very interesting.
Before our windows stands a sycamore-tree planted by
James VI. A curious old book was brought to us from Perth, in which
the last signatures are those of James I (of England) and of Charles
I., and we were asked to write our names in it, and we did so. Lord
Mansfield told me yesterday that there were some people in the town
who wore the identical dresses that had been worn in Charles I.’s
time. At eleven o’clock we set off as before. We drove through part
of Perth, and had a very fine view of Scone. A few miles on, we
passed the field of battle of I.uncarty, where tradition says the
Danes were beaten by Lord Erroll’s ancestor. We also passed Lord
Lynedoch’s property. We then changed horses at the “New Inn” at Auchtergaven. The Grampians came
now distinctly into view; they are indeed a grand range of
To the left we saw Tullyballen, where it is said the
Druids used to sacrifice to Bel; there are a few trees on the top of
To the left; but more immediately before us, we saw Birnam, where
once stood Birnam Wood, so renowned in Macbeth. We passed a pretty
shooting place of Sir W. Stewart’s, called Rohallion, nearly at the
foot of Birnam. To the right we saw the Stormont and Strath-tay. Albert
said, as we came along between the mountains, that to the right,
where they were wooded, it was very like Thuringen, and on the left
more like Switzerland. Murthly, to the right, which belongs to Sir
W. Stewart, is in a very fine situation, with theTay winding under
the hill. This lovely scenery continues all along to Dunkeld. Lord
Mansfield rode with us the whole way.
Just outside Dunkeld, before a triumphal arch, Lord
Glenlyon’s Highlanders, with halberds, met us, and formed our
guard—a piper playing before us. Dunkeld is beautifully situated in
a narrow valley, on the banks of the Tay. We drove in to where the
Highlanders were all drawn up, in the midst of their encampments,
and where a tent was prepared for us to lunch in. Poor Lord Glenlyon
received us; but he had suddenly become totally blind, which is
dreadful for him. He was led about by his wife; it was very
melancholy. His blindness was caused by over-fatigue. The Dowager
Lady Glenlyon, the Mansfields, Kinnoulls, Buccleuchs, and many
others were there. We walked down the ranks of the Highlanders, and
then partook of luncheon, the piper played, and one of the
Highlanders danced the ‘‘sword dance.” (Two swords crossed are laid
upon the ground, and the dancer has to dance across them without
touching them.) Some of the others danced a reel.
At a quarter to four we left Dunkeld as we came, the
Highland Guard marching with us till we reached the outside of the
town. The drive was quite beautiful all the way to Taymouth. The two
highest hills of the range on each side are (to the right, as you go
on after leaving Dunkeld') Craig-y-Bams and (to the left,
immediately above Dunkeld) Craigvinean. The Tay winds along
beautifully, and the hills are richly wooded. We changed horses
first at Balanagard (nine miles), to which place Captain Murray,
Lord Glenlyon’s brother, rode with us. The hills grew higher and
higher, and Albert said it was very Swiss-looking in some parts.
High ribbed mountains appeared in the distance, higher than any we
have yet seen. This was near Aberfeldy (nine miles), which is
charmingly situated and the mountains very lofty. At a quarter to
six we reached Tay mouth. At the gate a guard of Highlanders, Lord
Breadalbane’s men, met us. Taymoufh lies in a valley surrounded by
very high, wooded hills; it is most beautiful. The house is a kind
of castle, built of granite. The coup-d'ceil was indescribable.
There were a number of Lord Breadalbane’s Highlanders, all in the
Campbell tartan, drawn up in front of the house, with Lord
Breadalbane himself in a Highland dress at their head, a few of Sir
Neil Menzies’ men (in the Menzies red and white tartan), a number of
grounds without asking permission, and we did not wish to be known,
we decided upon not attempting to do so, and contented ourselves
with getting out at a gate close to a small fort, into which we were
led by a woman from the gardener’s house, near to which we had
stopped, and who had no idea who we were.
We got out, and looked from this height dowm upun the
house below, the mist having cleared away sufficiently to show us
everything ; and then, unknown, quite in private, I gazed—not
without deep emotion—on the scene of our reception twenty-four years
ago, by dear Lord Breadalbane, in a princely style, not to be
equalled in grandeur and poetic effect.
Albert and I were then only twenty-three, young and
happy. How many are gone that were with us then!
I was very thankful to have seen it again. It seemed
1866. pipers playing, and a company of the 92nd
Highlanders, also in kilts. The firing of the guns, the cheering of
the great crowd, the picturesqueness of the dresses, the beauty of
the surrounding country, with its rich background of wooded bills,
altogether formed one of the finest scenes imaginable. It seemed as
if a great chieftain in olden feudal times was receiving his
sovereign. It was princely anti romantic. Lord and Lady Breadalbane
took us upstairs, the hall and stairs being lined with Highlanders.
The Gothic staircase is of stone and very fine : the
whole of the house is newly and exquisitely furnished. The
drawing-room, especially, is splendid. Thence you go into a passage
and a library, which adjoins our private apartments. They showed us
two sets of apartments, and we chose those which are on the right
hand of the corridor or ante-room to the library. At eight we dined.
Staying in the house, besides ourselves, are the Buccleuchs and the
two Ministers, the Duchess of Sutherland and Iaidy Elizabeth Leveson
Gower, the Abercorns, Roxburghs, Kinnoulls, Lord Lauderdale, Sir
Anthony Monkland, Lord Lome, the Fox Maules, Belhavens, Mr. anti
Mrs. William Russell, Sir J. anti Lady Elizabeth, and the Misses
Pringle, and two Messrs. Baillie, brothers of Lady Breadalbane. The
dining-room is a fine room in Gothic style, and has never been dined
in till this day. Our apartments also are inhabited for the first
time. .After dinner the grounds were most splendidly illuminated,— a
whole chain of lamps along the railings, and on the ground was
written in lamps, Welcome Victoria— Albert.”
A small fort, which is up in the woods, was
illuminated, and bonfires were burning on the tops of the hills. I
never saw anything so fairy like. There were some pretty fireworks,
and the whole ended by the Highlanders dancing reels, which they do
to perfection, to the sound of the pipes, by torchlight, in front of
the house. It had a wild and very gay effect.
Taymoutk, Thursday, September 8.
Albert went off at half-past nine o’clock to shoot
with Lord Breadalbane. I walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk
along a path overlooking the Tay, which is very clear, and ripples
and foams along over the stones, the high mountains forming such a
rich background. We got up to the dairy, which is a kind of Swiss
cottage, but of quartz, very clean and nice. From the top of it
there is a very pretty view of Loch Tay.
We returned home by the way we came. It gained the
whole time, and very hard for a little while. Albert returned at
half-past three. He had had excellent sport, and the trophies of it
were spread out before the house— nineteen roe-deer, several hares
and pheasants, and three brace of grouse; there was also a
capercailzie that had been wounded, and which I saw afterwards, a
magnificent large bird.
Albert had been near Abafeldy, and had to shoot and
walk the whole way back, Lord Breadalbane himself beating, and 300
Highlanders out. We went out at five, with Lady' Breadalbane and the
Duchess of Sutherland ; we saw part of Loch Tay, and drove along the
banks of the Tay under fine trees, and saw Lord Breadalbane’s
Friday, September 9.
Albert off again after nine o’clock, to shoot. Soon
after he left I walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk across the
iron bridge, and along a grass walk over hanging the Tay.
Two 01 the Highland Guard (they were stationed at
almost every gate in the park) followed us, and it looked like olden
times to see them with their swords drawn.
We then walked 10 a lodge on the same road. A fat,
good-humoured little woman, about forty years old, cut some flowers
for each of us. and the Duchess gave her some money, saying, “From
Her Majesty.” I never saw any one more surprised than she was; she,
however, came up to me and said very warmly, that my people were
delighted to see me in Scotland. It came on to rain very heavily
soon afterwards, but we walked on. We saw a woman in the river, with
her dress tucked up almost to her knees, washing potatoes.
The rain ceased just as we came home, but it went on
pouring frequently. Albert returned at twenty minutes to three,
having had very hard work on the moors, wading up to his knees in
bogs every now and then, and had killed nine brace of grouse. We
lunched; then we went to the drawing-room, and saw from the window
the Highlanders dancing reels; but unfortunately it rained the whole
time. There were nine pipers at the castle; sometimes one, and
sometimes three played. They always played about breakfast-time,
again during the morning, at luncheon, and also whenever we went in
and out; again before dinner, and during most of dinner time. We
both have become quite fond of the bagpipes.
At a quarter-past five we drove out with the Duchess
of Buccleuch and the Duchess of Sutherland (poor Lady Breadalbane
not being very well), Lord Breadalbane riding the whole time before
us. We took a most beautiful drive, first of all along part of the
lake and between the hills—such thorough mountain scenery,— and with
little huts, so low, so full of peat smoke, that one could hardly
see anything for smoke. We saw Ben Lawers, which is said to be 4,000
feet high, very well, and further on, quite in the distance, Ben
More—also the Glenlyon, and the river Lyon, and many, fine glens. It
was quite dark when we came home at half-past seven. At eight we
dined; Lord and Lady Ruthven and Lord and Lady Duncan dined here.
After dinner came a number of people, about ninety, and there was a
ball. It opened with a quadrille, which I danced with Lord
Breadalbane, and Albert with the Duchess of Buccleuch. A number of
reels were danced, which it was very amusing and pretty to see.
Saturday, September 10
We walked to the dairy and back—a fine bright morning
; the weather the two preceding days had been very unfortunate. I
drove a little way with Lady Breadal bane, the others walking, and
then got out, and each of us planted two trees, a fir and an oak. We
got in again, and drove with the whole party down to the lake, where
we embarked Lady Breadalbane, the Duchess of Sutherland and Lady
Elizabeth went by land, but all the others went in boats. With us
were Lord Breadalbane and the Duchess of Norfolk and Duchess of
Buccleuch; and two pipers sat on the bow and played very often. I
have since been reading in The. Lady of the. Lake, and this passage
reminds me of our voyage:—
“See the proud pipers on the bow,
And mark the gaudy streamers flow
From their loud chanters down, and sweep
The furrow’d bosom of the deep,
As, rushing through the lake amain,
They plied the ancient Highland strain.”
Our row of 16 miles up Loch Tay to Auchmore, a
cottage of Lord Breadalbane’s, near the end of the lake, was the
prettiest thing imaginable. We saw the splendid scenery to such
great advantage on both sides: Ben Lawers, with small waterfalls
descending its sides, amid other high mountains wooded here and
there; with Reunion in the distance ; the view, looking back, as the
loch winds, was most beautiful. The boatmen sang two Gaelic
boat-songs, very wild and singular; the language so guttural and yet
so soft. Captain McDougall, who steered, and who is the head of the
McDougalls, showed us the real “brooch of Lorn,” which was taken by
his ancestor from Robert Bruce in a battle. The situation of Av• ch-more is
exquisite; the trees growing so beautifully down from the top of the
mountains, quite into the water, and the mountains all round, make
it an enchanting spot. We landed and lunched in the cottage, which
is a very nice little place. The day was very fine ; the Highlanders
were there again. We left Auchmore at twenty minutes past three,
having arrived there at a quarter before three. The kindness and
attention to us of Lord and of Lady Breadalbane (who is very
delicate) were unbounded. We passed Killin, where there is a
mountain stream running over large stones, and forming waterfalls.
The country we came to now was very wild, beginning
at Glen Dochart, through which the Dochart flows; nothing but moors
and very high rocky mountains. We came to a small lake called, I
think, Laragilly, amidst the wildest and finest scenery we had yet
seen. Glen Ogle, which is a sort of long pass, putting one in mind
of the prints of the Kyher Bass, the road going for some way down
hill and up hill, through these very high mountains, and the escort
in front looking like mere specks from the great height. We also
saw Ben Voirlich. At Loch Earn Head we changed horses. Lord
Breadalbane rode with, us the whole way up to this point, and then
he put his Factor (in Highland dress) up behind our carriage. It
came on to rain, and rained almost the whole of the rest of the
time. We passed along Loch Ram, which is a very beautiful long lake
skirted by high mountains; but is not so long or so large as Loch
Tay. Just as we turned and went by St. Fillans, the view of the lake
was very fine. There is a large detached rock with rich verdure on
it, which is very striking.
We also saw Glenartney, the mountain on which Lord
Willoughby has his deer forest. We passed by Sir D. Dundas’s place, Dunira,
before we (hanged horses at Coinrie, for the last time, and then by
Mr. Williamson’s, and by Ochtertyre Sir W. Keith Murray’s.
Triumphal arches were erected in many places. We
passed through Crieff, and a little past seven reached Drummond
Castle, by a very steep ascent. Lord Wil loughby received us at the
door, and showed us to our rooms, which are small but nice. Besides
Lord and Lady Willoughby and the two Misses Willoughby, and our own
people, the dinner-party was composed of the Duchess of Sutherland
and Lady Elizabeth I,. Gower, Lord and Lady Carington, Mr. and Mrs.
Heathcote, the Duke de Richelieu, Lord Ossulston, Mr. Drummond, and
the officers of the Guard.
Drummond Castle, Sunday, September 11.
We walked in the garden, which is really very fine,
with terraces, like an old French garden. Part of the old castle and
the archway remains.
At twelve o’clock we had prayers in the drawing-room,
which were read by a young clergyman, who preached a good sermon.
It poured the whole afternoon, and, after writing, I
read to Albert the three first cantos of The Lay of the deist
Minstrel, which delighted us both; and then we looked over some
curious, fine old prints by Ridinger. At eight we dined. The Duchess
of Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth had gone; but Lord and Lady
Abercorn and Lord and Lady Kinnoull and their daughter added to the
Monday, September 12.
Albert got up at five o’clock to go out
deer-stalking. I walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk.
All the Highlanders (Lord Willoughby’s people, 100 in
number), were drawn up in the court, young Mr. Willoughby and Major
Drummond being at their head, and I walked round with Lady
Willoughby. All the arms they wore belonged to Lord Willoughby ; and
there was one double-hilted sword, which had been at the battle
of Bannockburn. I hear that at Dunkeld there were nearly 900
Highlanders, 500 being Athole men; and, altogether, with the various
Highlanders who were on guard, there were 1,000 men.
At length—a little before three—to my joy, Albert
returned, dreadfully sunburnt, and a good deal tired; he had shot a
stag. He said the exertion and difficulty were very great. He had
changed his dress at a small farm-house. Glenartney is ten miles
from Drummond Castle; he drove there. Campbell of Monzie (pronounced
“Monie”), a young gentleman who has a place near here, went with him
and was, Albert said, extremely active. To give some description of
this curious sport. I will copy an extract from a letter Albert has
written to Charles, giving a short account of it:—
“Without doubt deer-stalking is one of the most #
fatiguing, but it is also one of the most interesting of pursuits.
There is not a tree, or a bush behind which you can hide yourself.
One has, therefore, to be constantly on the alert in order to
circumvent them; and to keep under the hill out of their wind,
“crawling on hands and knees, and dressed entirely in grey."
At half-past four we drove out with Lady Willoughby
and the Duchess of buccleuch. We drove through Fern Tower (belonging
to the widow of the first Sir D. Baird), where we stopped the
carriage; then to Ahercairny, Major Moray’s. We got out there a
moment to look at the very fine house he is building, then drove
home by Monsie (Campbell of Monzie’s), and Sir W. Murray’s, and had
a very good view of the Highland hills—a very fine day. At eight we
dined. The Belhavens, Seftons, Cravens, Campbell of Monzie, and
various others composed the party. After dinner more people came—
several in kilts; and man} reels were danced; Campbell of Monzie is
an exceedingly good dancer. We danced one country dance — I with
Lord Willoughby — and Albert with Lady Carington.
Tuesday, September 13.
We had to start early, and therefore got up soon
after seven o'clock; breakfast before eight. At nine we set off. The
morning was very foggy and hazy. We passed near Lord Strathallan’s
place and stopped for a moment where old Lady Strathallan was
seated. Lord Willoughby rode with us the whole way till we arrived
here. Soon after this we came to a very extraordinary Roman
encampment at Ardoch, called the “Lindrum.” Albert got out; but I
remained in the carriage, and Major Moray showed it to him. They say
it is one of the most perfect in existence.
We changed horses at Greenloaning, and passed
through Dunblane. At twelve o’clock we reached Stirling, where the
crowd was quite fearful, and the streets so narrow, that it was most
alarming; and order was not very well kept. Up to the Castle, the
road or street is dreadfully steep; we had a foot procession before
us the whole way, and the heat was intense. The situation of the
Castle is extremely grand; but I prefer that of Edinburgh
Castle. Old Sir Archibald Christie explained everything to us very
well. We were shown the room where James II. killed Douglas, and the
window' out of which he was thrown. The ceiling is most curious. A
skeleton was found in the garden only twenty-five years ago, and
there appears to be little doubt it was Douglas’s. From the terrace
the view* is very extensive; but it was so thick and hazy, that we
could not see the Highland hills well. Sir A. Christie showed us the
field of the battle of Bannockburn; and the “Knoll,” close under the
walls of the Castle, from which the ladies used to watch the
tournaments; all the embankments yet remain. We also saw Knox’s
We next passed through Falkirk, and changed horses
at Callander Park. Mr. Forbes’s; both he and Sir Michael Bruce
having ridden with us from beyond Stirling. We passed Lord Zetland
on the road, and shortly before reaching Linlithgow, where we
changed horses, Lord Hopetoun met us. Unfortunately, we did not see
the Palace, which, I am told, is well worth seeing, The Duke of
Buccleuch met us soon after this, and, accompanied by a large number
of his tenants, rode with us on horseback to Dalkeith. We changed
horses at Kirkliston, and lastly at the outskirts of Edinburgh,
There were a good many people assembled at Edinburgh; but we were
unable to stop. We reached Dalkeith at half-past five.
The journey was 65 miles, and I was very tired, and
felt most happy that we had safely arrived here.
Dalkeith, Wednesday, September 14.
This is our last day in Scotland; it is really a
delightful country, and I am very sorry to leave it. We walked out
and saw the fine greenhouse the Duke has built, all in stone, in the
Renaissance style. At half-past three o’clock we went out with the
Duchess of Buccleuch, only Colonel Bouverie riding with us. We drove
through Melville Park, and through one of the little collier
villages (of which there are a great many about Dalkeith), called Loanhead,
We got out at the chapel, which is in excellent
preservation; it was built in the fifteenth century, and the
architecture is exceedingly rich. It is the burying place of the
family of Lord Rosslyn, who keeps jt in repair. Twenty Barons of
Rosslyn are buried there in armour. A great crowd had collected
about the chapel when we came out of it.
From Rosslyn we then drove to Hawthornden, which is
also beautifully situated at a great height above the liver. To our
great surprise we found an immense crowd of people there, who must
have run over from Rosslyn to meet us.
We got out, and went down into some of the very
curious caves in the solid rock, where Sir Alexander Ramsay and his
brave followers concealed themselves, and held out for so long a
time. The Duchess told us there were many of these caves all along
the river to Rosslyn.
We came home through Bonnyrigg, another collier
village, and through Dalkeith.
Thursday, September 15.
We breakfasted at half-past seven o’clock, and at
eight we set off, with the Duchess of buccleuch, Lord Inver pool,
and Lord Hardwicke following. The ladies and equerries had embarked
earlier. The day was very bright and fine. The arrangements
in Edinburgh, through which we had to pass, were extremely well
managed, and excellent order was kept. We got out of the carriage on
the pier, and went at once on board the “Trident,” a large steamboat
belonging to the General Steam Navigation Company. The Duke and
Duchess of Buccleuch, Lady J. Scott, the Emlyns, Lord Cawdor, and
Lady M. Campbell, came on board with us, and we then took leave of
them. We both thanked the Duke and Duchess for their extreme
kindness, attention, and hospitality to us, which really were very
great—indeed we had felt ourselves quite at home at Dalkeith.
As the fair shores of Scotland receded more and more
from our view, we felt quite sad that this very pleasant and
interesting tour was over; but we shall never forget it.
Onboard the “Trident” (where the accommodation for us
was much larger and better than on board the “Royal George,” and
which was beautifully fitted up,) were Admiral Sir E. brace, a
pleasant old man, Commander Bullock, and three other officers. The
“Rhadamanthus,” with some servants and carriages, set oft last
night, as well as the “Shearwater,” with Lord Liverpool and Lord
Hardwicke on board.
The “Salamander” (with Mr. and Mrs. Anson on board),
the “Fearless',” and the “Royal George” yacht set off at the same
time with us, but the wind being against us, we soon lost sight of
the yacht, and, not very long after, of all our steamers, except
tire “ Monarch,” which belongs to the General Steam Navigation
Company, and had some of cur horses on board. It started nearly at
the same time, and was the only one which could keep up with us. We
passed Tantallon Castle, a grand old ruin on the coast, and quite
close to the Bass Rock, which is very fine, and nearly opposite Tantallon. It
was entirely covered with sea-gulls and island geese, which swarm in
thousands and thousands, quite whitening its sides, and hovering
above and around it.
At two o’clock we passed the famed St. Abb's
Head, which we had so longed to see on our first voyage
to Scotland. I read a few stanzas out of Marmion, giving an account
of the voyage of the nuns to Holy Island, and saw the ruins of the
convent on it; then Bambetmigh Castle, and a little further on the Ferne
Islands. We were very sorry to hear that poor Grace Darling had died
the night before we passed the first time.
Friday, September 16.
We heard that we had passed Flamborough Head at
half-past five in the morning. The “ black Eagle ” we passed at half
past eight last night, and we could only just see her smoke by the
time we came on deck. At half-past nine I followed Albert on deck;
it was a fine, bright morning. We had some coffee, and walked about;
we were then quite in the open sea; it was very-fine all day. At
five we were close to the “Rhadamanthus,” which had been in sight
all day. We had a very pleasant little dinner on deck, in a small
tent made of flags, at half-past five. We passed Yarmouth at about a
quarter to six—very flat—and looking, Albert said, like a Flemish
town. We walked up and down on deck, admiring the splendid
moonlight, which was reflected so beautifully on the sea.
We went below at half past seven, and I read the
fourth and fifth cantos of The Lay of the Last Minstrel to Albert,
and then we played on the piano.
Saturday, September 17.
At three o’clock in the morning we were awakened by
loud guns, which, however, were welcome sounds to us, as we knew
that we were at the More, the entrance of the river. About six we
heard the “Rhadamanthus” had just passed us, and they said we were
lying oft' Southend, in order to let the “Black Eagle” come up. It
was a very bright day, though a little hazy.
The shipping in the river looked very pretty as we
passed along. At ten minutes past ten we got into the barge and
landed. The Duchess of Norfolk and Miss Matilda Paget and the
equerries were all there, but the others we knew nothing of. Sir
James Clark had been on board the “Trident” with us. We drove off at
once to the railway terminus, and reached Windsor Castle at
half-past twelve o’clock.