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I remember,
I remember, the house where I was born,
The little window where the sun came peeping in at
morn;
He never came a wink to soon nor brought too long
a day;
But oft since then I wished the night had borne my
breath away.*
I
remember, I remember, the fir trees dark and high;
I used to think their slender tops were close
against the sky:
It was a childish ignorance, but now ‘tis little
joy
To know I’m further off from Heaven, than when I
was a boy.
Thomas Hood (adapted)*
I was born in a village on
the Moray coast of Scotland, to fisher parents whose lineage had both
Pictish and Norse origins, - with possibly some Celtic and Lowland
mixtures. I was later blessed to marry an Edinburgh lassie whose people
were miners of Lowland Scots origins with some Continental traces. My
mother tongue was broad Scots of the Doric variety, - a language we were
not permitted to use at school or in any refined company. Local culture
in my childhood was marked to a degree by the “Scottish cringe”, and the
veneration of a national establishment that was very English in
character. The street where I was born carried such connotations in its
name, “Union Street”, as did the street of the second family home I
knew, “Dunbar Street”, named after Captain Brander Dunbar, the
local Laird. To further identify us with him, there was a Brander
Street and also streets called Victoria, King, Queen, and High,
Street (after the High church).

East beach and Lossie river

Sea breaking over the north
pier Lossie. Typical conditions following SE swell.
Morayshire can claim a
unique and rich history stretching back to the period of the Roman and
Viking invasions. Julius Caesar is said to have sent his troops to the
mouth of the river Spey to investigate reports of pearls in the mussels
there. There were (and still are), pearls in those mussels, but they are
tiny and of no commercial value. (As boys we used to collect them
occasionally). Some 50 miles to the east, in Strathmore by Bennachie just
south of the modern A 92 road, the battle of Mons Graupius took place,
when Agricola defeated the Pictish king Calgacus. Burghead harbour may
have been used by the Romans as well as the Norse invaders, but the date
of its historic remnants is uncertain. Huge naval battles may have taken
place in the Moray Firth, between Norse fleets and early Roman, Pictish or
Celtic navies. But these battles took place in the dim and distant past,
and have few references in written history. The early Christian church
was established in Scotland in the 6th century following the work of an
Irish monk Colum Cille (Columba), who followed men like St Ninian and St
Mungo. It was at Loch Ness west of my home where Columba first met the
Pictish king, Brude Mac Maelchon whose successor Gartnaich is believed to
have embraced the Christian faith.
Under its original name of
Moravia, the district of Moray was an independent region of what became
the Kingdom of Scotland. It extended from the river Spey to the east, to
the Dornoch firth on the western side. For some centuries Moravia
resisted the imposition of both Norman Feudalism and Roman Catholicism,
(preferring the traditions of the Celtic Church to those of the Roman
pontiffs). Kings Alexander I & II, and King Malcolm, worked to
incorporate Moravia into the Scottish state, and into the Roman branch of
Catholicism, by appointing a Bishop in Moray in 1107, and by establishing
the Pluscarden Benedictine Priory in 1230. A later Bishop, David de
Moravia, was a leader of the northern independence movement, for which he
was excommunicated by Edward 1st. He went to Norway for
safety, but returned after Edward’s death.
King Macbeth of Scotland was a Moray man, and a fairly
competent monarch apparently, by the standards of the time, unlike
Shakespeare’s cruel and tortured character. Alexander Stewart, the
lawless Earl of Buchan, better known as the ‘Wolf of Badenoch’ a son of
King Robert II and brother of King Robert III, lived near Aviemore, from
where he and his “wild, wicked Heilandmen” made trouble for the
authorities, and burnt down Elgin Cathedral in 1390, after Bishop Bur
had disciplined him and excommunicated him from the Church. He is said
to have sired 40 illegitimate children, and got rid of his legal wife to
take in a mistress. Following his misdeeds his father made him go
through a public act of repentance in Perth. However sincere it was, or
not, he was re-admitted to the church, and was later buried in Dunkeld
Cathedral. (In fact the real basis of Alexander Stewart’s quarrel with
the Bishop and other nobles, was over ownership and control of the
Badenoch lands, and of the lands held by his legal wife, Countess
Euphemia of Ross who had her marriage annulled by Papal Edict. The fury
exhibited by the ‘Wolf’ at his excommunication, was due more to its
impact on his earthly prospects than his heavenly ones. As a Stewart
and a son of the King, it would have precluded him from ascending to
throne of Scotland, had he become next in line.)

Ruins of Elgin Cathedral,
Morayshire Destroyed by Alexander Stewart,
“the Wolf of Badenoch” in 1390.
Scotland was ruled from
Morayshire for a few brief periods since the time of Randolph Stewart,
Earl of Moray in the 14th century. Traditionally the Earldom
was responsible for government if and when the monarch was in his
childhood. The ‘Bonnie’ Earl of Moray, James Stewart, a half brother of
Mary queen of Scots, was Prince Regent of Scotland during the infancy of
James VI, and a leader of the Scottish Reformation. He had his home at
Forres, in Darnaway Castle, still in fine condition. He was assassinated
at 39 years of age in Linlithgow in 1570. One of our best friends has
been taking care of the castle the past 20 years for the present Lord
Moray. Its coat of arms still bears the motto given it by the Bonnie
Earl, - saved through Christ’s redemption. [The
motto is in Latin : “Solus per Christo Redemptori”.]
Moray, and the city of
Elgin, have seen a few invading armies over the years. The forces of the
English King Edward 1st were there in 1303. During the period 1651 – 58,
Oliver Cromwell’s army, or part of it, was in Moray, and they are credited
with destroying much of what was left of the cathedral. In 1746, Charles
Edward Stuart and the Jacobite army passed through Moray, followed by the
pursuing force under ‘butcher’ Cumberland, on their way to Culloden Moor
where took place the last land battle ever fought in Britain. Culloden,
the battle site, less than 30 miles from Moray, has a ‘Stonehenge-like’
circle of standing stones, giving the area a link with Druids of two to
three millenniums ago. The battle of Culloden was a watershed event for
Scotland. John Prebble wrote, “Culloden … began a sickness from which
Scotland, and the Highlands in particular, never recovered.
This sickness and its economic consequences emptied the Highlands of its
people”. [From
the author’s foreword in “Culloden”, by John Prebble.]
The chief of those
consequences was the notorious ‘Highland Clearances’ of the first half of
the 19th century. Those who have read the history of that
period, will recognize the name of Patrick Sellars, factor to the Duke of
Sutherland, who was among the most callous and ruthless of those who
systematically evicted poor tenants from the estates to enrich himself and
make room for more profitable sheep. He came from Westerfield Farm near
Duffus, close to my present home at Covesea, and is buried in the grounds
of Elgin Cathedral. During his term as factor, he would regularly sail
across from the Beauly or Cromarty Firth, to Burghead, from where he went
by horse carriage to the market in Elgin to purchase tools, equipment and
supplies for the estate. The huge Sutherland estate lies across the Firth
from Morayshire, towards the north-west. The infamous Duke was memorably
described by Prebble. [From
“The Highland Clearances”, by John Prebble.]
“He was coal and wool joined by a stately hyphen, and ennobled by five
coronets. The glens emptied by his commissioners, law agents, and
ground officers (with the prompt assistance of police and soldiers when
necessary), were let or leased to Lowlanders who grazed 200,000 true
mountain sheep upon them, and sheared 415,000 lbs of wool every year.”

Map of old Moravia, the
semi-independent part of medieval Scotland. Note the loch near the
mouth of the river Lossie. This is Spynie loch. It has since been
drained, but before 1600 it was open to the sea, and allowed boats to land
at Duffus castle and Spynie Palace.
More recently, Morayshire
has been the home of a new age community at Findhorn beside the Kinloss
air station. Gordonstoun school where several members of the Royal family
were educated, lies between Duffus and the RAF Lossiemouth station. The
Duke of Gordon whose home it had been, was reputed to dabble in the
occult, and to be involved in the smuggling trade. The caves at Covesea
nearby had tunnels that may have been used to secrete contraband goods
landed on the beach. They also have some inscribed Pictish symbols dating
back thousands of years. Some tinker families lived in the caves during
the 19th and early 20th centuries. A few were still
around when I was a young boy. They were generally accepted and treated
with a degree of compassion. One notable member of that small tinker
community in my parent’s time was a young woman with the attractive name
of Joyful. A more prosperous group of Romany people were those who
ran the shows and funfairs. Though they lived in caravans, they were much
more urban in their lifestyle than the gypsies of southern England. A
family we knew well, the Hewsons, ran an early picture house in the town.
Old Mrs Hewson was a character, but kindly and generous. She had one son
and seven daughters that I recall. The family occasionally joined us for
Christmas or New Year, and at least two of them were buried from our
house.

Culloden moor cairn and
plaque recalling the last battle ever fought on British soil.
It saw the end of the Jacobite cause, and the beginning of the
depopulation of the
Highlands.

Farming thrived in the
valley of the Spey, Lossie and Findhorn rivers, producing barley,
potatoes, turnip, and other vegetables. Cattle and sheep grew well on the
local grass. Some reforestation took place in the last 50 years, mainly of
fir, silver birch and pine trees. Moray’s coast was the base of a
prosperous mechanised fishing fleet for over a hundred years till that
industry was destroyed by the European common fisheries policy. There
were fleets of small boats at Spey Bay, Seatown and Stotfield (later
merged into Lossiemouth), and at Hopeman, Burghead, and Nairn. They have
practically all gone, and have been replaced with a few yachts in each
harbour. Still flourishing however, throughout inland Moray, are many
whiskey distilleries.

Gordonstoun School, near
our home at Wester Covesea.
Several members of the Royal family were educated there.

Covesea lighthouse, built
by the Stevenson family from whom came the author,
Robert Louis Stevenson
My hometown has links with
the Stevenson family of engineers that built all of the lighthouses in
Scotland. Covesea light, (Covesea is an anglicized version of “Caus’ie”
or causeway) close to my present home, is one of the magnificent creations
of that remarkable family from which came Robert Louis, the poet and
writer. No doubt he visited the light designed by his uncle Alan in 1846,
as he did most of the family constructions, during his youth. One of our
later homes in Edinburgh was located close to Swanston farm on the
Pentland Hills where a sickly Robert spent some of his childhood summers,
and to the old Colinton Church Manse where one of his uncles was
Minister. And we were often in the New Town where he was born. Then in
my travels, as discussed farther on, I was to retrace Stevenson’s voyages
around the Pacific in the yacht Casco, and visit his grave on Mount
Vaea, in West Samoa. Another famous name who came regularly to Covesea
before moving to Canada, was Alexander Graham Bell, whose family used to
rent a cottage at Covesea village in the summertime.
The benchmark I always
traced the family history from is my Grandmother’s birth; (my maternal
grandmother who lived with us). She was born in 1868, in the 31st year of
Queen Victoria’s reign, in the middle of the Disraeli and Gladstone
Ministries, and just 3 years after the assassination of Abraham Lincoln.
Karl Marx had just published Das Kapital, and Charles Darwin, the
Origin of the Species, 9 years earlier. That year Louisa Alcott
published Little Women, Charles Dickens was close to the end of his
active life, and Robert Louis Stevenson was a teenage student in
Edinburgh.
The year she
was born, a Lt Colonel in the U.S. 7th Cavalry, George A.
Custer, operating from Fort Riley in Kansas, was massacring Commanche and
Cheyenne Indians, men women and children, and burning their meagre
belongings. He and his troops also raped female Indian prisoners. Granny
was 8 years old when Custer and over 200 of his soldiers were killed by a
Sioux encampment he had attacked, and from whom he did not expect much
resistance, at the Little Big Horn river in Dakota. The Indians were led
by chiefs Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse. Custer’s campaigns were part of
the military efforts to remove Indian people off lands wanted by settlers
and ranchers. Scant heed was paid to treaties which the American Federal
government broke time and time again.
Among the children of the
‘Seatown’ where Granny lived, and with whom she attended the two-roomed
school at Drainie, just outside the village, was a boy, two years her
senior, by the name of James Ramsay MacDonald, the future Prime Minister.
He was later to build a house for his mother, Annie Ramsay, in Moray
Street, just a few yards up the road from granny’s modest cottage. Ramsay
named the house, “The Hillocks”. It has its back to the street, and its
front facing east towards the Inchbroom wood and Spey Bay. I have been
a welcome guest at The Hillocks in recent times where JRM’s
grand-daughter, kindly allowed me to peruse his personal library and
examine family memorabilia.
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James Ramsay Macdonald
The first Labour Prime Minister of Britain, James Ramsay Macdonald was
born in my home town of Lossiemouth on 1866, the only son of Annie
Ramsay, a servant girl who never married. He attended the local
two-room Drainie school just outside the village, near the present RAF
station. The teacher was a James MacDonald (no relation), who was
assisted by a sewing mistress and a pupil-teacher, to handle the total
of 70 pupils. Ramsay was kept on for a while as an assistant teacher
after he graduated. He later went to London and Bristol where he
found newspaper work, and married a Margaret Gladstone from a
middle-class family.
He joined the early Labour Party, and was much
admired by socialists and Fabians, including Beatrice and Sidney
Webb. He was elected a member of parliament for Leicester in 1912,
and joined Kier Hardie and other early socialists at Westminster.
He had pacifist views and opposed Britain’s participation in the
First World War. This stance attracted a lot of criticism. Back
home, he was ordered off the golf course by the club secretary in
1915, and had his membership terminated the following year. The
secretary of the Moray Golf Club, Jock Foster, Solicitor and Sheriff
Clerk at Elgin city, was by most reports, an arrogant man who later
became an alcoholic and eventually died in Bilbohall hospital (the
Elgin mental asylum) in 1946, nine years after the man he scorned
and kicked off the golf course had been buried with national honours
as a three time Prime Minister of Britain. (In those pre-NHS days
alcoholics were often cared for in mental hospitals).
After the war Ramsay was elected for Aberavon. In 1924 King George
asked MacDonald, then leader of the Labour Party, to form a
government, which he did, but it did not last the year, due to a
scandal known as the “Zionovev letter” which now appears to have been
fabricated for that very purpose. Gutter politics are not a modern
invention!

James Ramsay MacDonald, three times
Prime Minister
of Britain

Ramsay with his wife Margaret
Gladstone, and mother,
Annie Ramsay,
and their first child that died later in infancy.
Poor Ramsay often had his illegitimacy and lack of wealth used against
him. The English newspaper John Bull, once printed a copy of his
birth certificate. Alexander Grant of Forres, owner of the McVitie &
Price biscuit company, provided Ramsay with table silver for 10
Downing Street, and a car for his use in Lossie. Grant later received
a knighthood, and even that sensible honour was a cause for slander in
the Tory press. Grant well deserved the title, unlike the scores of
Tory sycophants who were ennobled or granted medals for little
apparent service to the country.
Ramsay was Prime Minister again 1929 – 1931, of the second Labour
government, and from 1931 to 1935 of a coalition government formed to
get all-party support to fight the recession since his own party
rejected his over-cautious approach. Most Labour members saw this as
betrayal and the party has regarded him as a political traitor since.
They also felt that MacDonald became too friendly and comfortable with
the aristocracy, and enjoyed their apparent adulation. There does
seem to have been something of the rural peasant’s respect for the
genuine aristocrat in Ramsay, despite his strong social beliefs.
His three administrations failed to deal effectively with the economic
crisis. His Finance Minister, Philip Snowden clung with doctrinaire
tenaciousness to the gold standard and refused to devalue the pound,
which effectively ensured that the recession would continue. Oswald
Mosley, later the leader of the British Fascist party, was a Labour MP
and Minister then. He argued for a Keynesian program to put the
unemployed to work on nation-wide re-forestation programmes. It could
have been the basis of a British “Tenessee Valley Authority” type
economic intervention, but no-one else in MacDonald’s cabinet had the
vision to see its potential. The plan was rejected and Mosley became
a fascist. Lacking an imaginative economic recovery programme Ramsay
was obliged to form a coalition government to tackle the recession.
Some observers believe that MacDonald was a spent force when he came
to power. Certainly he never got over the untimely death of his wife
Margaret Gladstone in 1911. He was a great believer in world peace,
and was a principal founder of the ill-fated League of Nations. He
foresaw the second world war due to France’s intransigence over the
conditions of the Treaty of Versailles, and died in some
disillusionment in 1937. He is buried in Spynie churchyard by the
ruined palace of that name, half-way between Lossiemouth and Elgin.
Ramsay’s son Malcolm was later British High Commissioner in Canada,
and served as Governor in Borneo, Malaysia, Kenya and India. He was
always plain “Mr.” MacDonald, having refused offers of knighthoods and
elevation to the peerage. His sister Ishbel, once her father’s
housekeeper at 10 Downing Street, married a local chemist and lived
out her days in Lossie. She invited my father and mother to meet
Malcolm on one of his last visits to Lossie. The former High
Commissioner and Governor General sat on a little stool in the corner
of her living room, and chatted away happily with all visitors from
the eldest to the youngest. |
The city of Elgin was and
is, quite small as cities go, with a population of only ten to twenty
thousand persons. It was typical of the towns serving a surrounding
agricultural area. It has produced a number of persons of achievement,
including a notable writer Jessie Kesson, who came from an extremely
deprived background to produce novels of remarkable insight. Another
successful person was a chemist, George Thomson, (no relation), who made
an excellent (and very palatable) cod liver oil cream that was marketed
until the 1950’s. He won the Moray Open golf championship in 1913, and
was presented the trophy by Prime Minister Asquith’s daughter.
Lossiemouth was known for
other things than being the birthplace of a Prime Minister. But for most
of the British public, that was it. When first encountering Labour Party
scorn for our local hero, as a young lad, I had no idea why he earned it.
I recall a Strube [Strube
was a Daily Express cartoonist between the wars, - a Giles before his
time, though more political.]
cartoon of the 1930’s with the cartoonist’s little man passing seasonal
compliments to various politicians. “Christmas greetings”, he said
to Ramsay MacDonald, “you’re the best Prime Minister we’ve ever had, -
from Lossiemouth”. The town was a combination of three villages, -
Seatown (or old Lossie), Branderburgh with the harbour and town square,
and Stotfield to the west. It came to life in the 19th century
with the construction of the lighthouse, the installation of electricity,
the extension of the railway line, and the construction of the two harbour
basins. The end of that century saw the rise of the herring industry, and
the rapid growth of a local fleet of steam drifters. At one time
there was a sign at the main railway station in London, declaring
“King’s Cross to Lossiemouth”. That was as far north as the LNER line
went. During the 20th century the town had a major air station
constructed nearby. RAF Lossiemouth is presently the base of Tornado
squadrons and air-sea rescue helicopters. For some years after the war it
was a naval air station, under the name RNAS Fulmar.

Motor fishing boat Prestige, owned and operated by my paternal
grandfather. (circa 1925).

Unveiling of the WW1 War
Memorial, 1923. My mother’s father is in the foreground in the left hand
corner. He was killed crossing the railway line the following year.
Granny was a character, -
very typical of working class Scots of her time. She was firm, thrifty,
hard working, honest to a fault, but also generous and sympathetic. Like
many Scots she did not hide her opinions, and would not hesitate to
contradict someone she disagreed with. She had a store of old songs and
ditties, and I wish I’d taken enough interest to jot some of them down on
paper. Long after her death I learned some odd things about Granny from a
local woman who ran errands for her. (My mother would not have mentioned
certain matters). One was that she smoked a pipe, which was not uncommon
in women of her class and time. The other was that she enjoyed a wee
dram. It had to be a wee one. She never had money for luxuries. Her
elderly line fisherman husband had been killed in 1924 by the local train
on his way to gather mussels for bait.
She worked hard for
minimal wages to support her children till they were each through school
and starting to earn for themselves. An earlier child she had in her
youth, emigrated to Canada where she went to work in the Yukon. Nell, a
woman of sterling pioneering character, married out there and raised a
family in Vancouver. Like many Scots emigrants she sent food parcels
regularly to her mother. Granny loved fish, and was the only person I
recall making “lichners”, small, semi-dried salted haddock which
were roasted over hot coals on the fire. They were the sweetest fish I
ever tasted. I slept in the same room as granny for a few years, and to
this day can recall her murmuring her evening prayers which to a wee boy,
pretending to sleep, seemed to continue for hours. My happiest memories of
Granny are of going round the garden to lift vegetables for the dinner.
She would often stop to make a whistle for me out of a leek, or once back
inside, make me a memorable bowl of brose, (a dish seldom seen in Scotland
now). She was adept at making jams, and her broth and tattie soups were
superb!
My mother had her hands
full looking after a fisherman husband and three sons, (our sister arrived
much later), with an unmarried brother and her mother all staying with us
in a bungalow that had just 2 small bedrooms and an attic used by my
bachelor uncle and my older brother. Before her marriage she worked for
Mr and Mrs David West who lived in a house perched precariously on a shelf
above the sea shore. David West was an artist whose paintings are highly
valued today. But like most artists he struggled to make ends meet during
his lifetime. Mother would take me on the double-decker Bluebird bus to
Elgin once a week to meet up with and buy some eggs from a cousin of her
mothers from Fogwatt village in the country where she kept a few hens.
While in Elgin, the main treat would be a sweet out of Woolworths. Sweets
were rationed and required a contribution of ration book coupons which
were used with care. When my father fished in the Republic of Ireland,
which did not have any rationing restrictions, he would return with a
suitcase full of sweets that were liberally distributed among my friends.
Nylon stockings and other feminine luxuries were brought back for mother
and her friends.
Mother’s brother, my
bachelor uncle, was a gardener then. A voracious reader of non-fiction (I
believe he had a prejudice against novels), he maintained a sizeable
library of Penguin and Pelican paperbacks, biographies, and accounts of
famous trials. There was an old wind-up
gramophone
in the attic cupboard by his bedroom. We would search among the rusty
needles to find one that would not scratch so much, and then listen to His
Master’s Voice recordings of Paul Robson, John McCormack, Robert Wilson
and other singers of that period. As a boy my uncle had had a newspaper
round, and used to recount which papers he would deliver to the different
members of Ramsay MacDonald’s cabinet and shadow cabinet, when they came
to Lossiemouth for meetings in the Stotfield or Marine Hotel there, when
Parliament was in recess. According to one of his grand-daughters, Ramsay
once brought Ghandi to Lossie, but no-one remembers setting eyes on him.
Perhaps our weather kept the Mahatma indoors.
Recollections of my father
are dim for early childhood, probably because he spent long periods away
at sea. When at home he loved to take us across the golf course on a
Sunday (there was no Sunday golf then), and show us bird’s nests which he
was adept at locating. The wooden lifeboat that fishing vessels carried
then was often left ashore to make room for fishing gear. Dad would row
us out on his one, to the offshore rocks of the Skerries in the summer,
and would whistle to attract the seals alongside.

Lossie harbour from the
air

Lossie town from the sea
Apart from the three
uncles on my mother’s side, there were seven uncles and two aunts on my
father’s side, - plus their spouses. The family enjoyed great camaraderie
and would rally around each other at times of crisis or bereavement. It
was a treat on occasional Sunday evenings to gather with them at my
paternal grandmother’s house, and hear them share their news and views.
As a young boy I regarded their collective wisdom with some awe and
admiration. The wives would meet once a week at each other’s homes for an
afternoon tea and gossip. All the while they talked, their knitting
needles clicked away speedily as they made jerseys, pullovers, cardigans
and kiddies clothes with great skill. Their cable stitch jersey patterns
were particularly admired by visitors from the south.
My Father was never a
reader, but he was a great conversationalist, and as such was welcome in
any company. I have never met his equal at striking up conversations with
complete strangers in a railway carriage, and keeping them entertained, to
their obvious pleasure, the whole journey. He was one of the finest
tellers of jokes, and could make almost any tale sound humorous. Children
everywhere loved uncle Jimmy as they called him. He had an
enormous store of practical jokes and conjuring tricks that never ceased
to fascinate them. Dad was also the most non-judgemental person I have
ever met. He looked on none with prejudice, and could befriend almost any
type of person. Despite his noncomformist background, he warmly embraced
believers from all denominations. He was as happy in the company of
Catholic nuns as he was with Salvation Army girls. There were only two
human traits I recall that angered him. One was meanness, and the other
was religious hypocrisy. Most human weaknesses he regarded with
compassion. Once when fishing in Ireland, he had mentioned to the local
Gardai police in Galway that fish baskets were regularly disappearing from
the deck when the boat was in port. He was annoyed later when he was
asked to appear in court as the authorities had recovered the baskets and
arrested a culprit. The man who was found guilty was unemployed and had a
large family. He was given a severe lecture by the magistrate and fined
for his misdeed. My father went to the court clerk afterwards and paid
the fine for the man. That was typical of him.

Boats landing their
catches at the fish market
He was a conscientious
objector during the war, but volunteered for the medical corps and for
non-combatant service in the merchant navy. The tribunal, however, treated
him with surprising respect and decided he should continue to fish to help
maintain that part of the country’s food supply. Such concessions were
regarded with some odium in the community since it permitted the ‘CO’s to
earn good money, but my father never mentioned the criticism he must have
received, though mother once alluded to white feathers stuck to their
front door. Other uncles served mostly on MFV tender boats in Scapa
Flow. One maternal uncle joined the army and was among those rescued at
Dunkirk. One of my father’s brothers served in the latter part of the
First World War, but it was from my wife’s family that I have more stories
of that conflict.
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World War 1 Memories
My
wife’s family had some interesting wartime experiences. Her
grandfather’s brother who often stayed with them after he was widowed,
was a sapper during the first world war. He spent some months at the
front near Ypres and witnessed much of the carnage in the dreadful
trenches and occasional hand-to-hand combat in no-man’s land. Coming
from a mining community, he was sometimes involved in underground
tunneling the army organized to place explosives underneath the German
trenches. He often told of a time when a German pillbox armed with
machine guns was cutting down attacking troops. Eventually, with the
support of tanks, the British ‘Tommies’ got close enough to lob
grenades into the pillbox which then fell silent. Andrew was one of
the first to enter the damaged gun position. As was the custom with
troops of the time, he took some souvenir items from the bodies of the
German troops, which he brought home with him after the war ended.
Years later, back at home in Scotland, Andrew was examining the items
which included letters and a Bible inscribed to the young soldier Karl
Fritz from his mother. He thought, “maybe this man’s family would
like to have these things”, and so he wrote to the family through
the German consulate. You can imagine his surprise a few months later
to learn that the soldier’s family in Bavaria were indeed pleased to
receive the materials, but also that Fritz himself, was still alive.
He had only been blinded and knocked unconscious by the blast. An
Edinburgh doctor helped restore his eyesight at a prisoner of war
hospital, and he was repatriated after the war. The family invited
Andrew to visit them in Germany. For domestic reasons he was unable to
go, but sent his son instead. The story gets more intriguing in that
Fritz’ son was captured during the second world war in the same
locality where his father was nearly killed. Information reached
Andrew who sent food parcels to Fritz junior, to the prison camp in
France, something the authorities sternly disapproved of. After the
second war, both families were to meet again in Scotland and in
Germany.
Another story from the first world war illustrates the insanity of our
governments training and sending young men out to kill, who in
ordinary circumstances would have no ill feelings towards each other
at all. A fish merchant friend of my father’s Johnny West, who had a
share in the family boat, was a soldier in the first world war.
Sometimes, particularly if he had taken a drink (not that he was a
drinker), a memory would come flooding back that he would have to
share, - rather like Coleridge’s Ancient Mariner. It concerned
his first contact with German troops at the front in France. He had
charged with his company out of the trench and across no-man’s land
where they met the oncoming enemy. A German soldier lunged at him
with his bayonet, but John sidestepped, deflected the blow as he had
been taught in training, and brought his own bayonet up into the man’s
chest. The young soldier collapsed, mortally wounded. Johnny knelt
down beside him and the man motioned to him to take a wallet from his
pocket. Inside were letters and pictures from his family. The German
indicated he would like Johnny to write to them and tell them what
happened. This Johnny assured him he would do, and with that the
young soldier died. Johnny used to say that once that incident was
past, he could have killed the whole German army and it would not have
bothered him; but that first action of taking the life of another
human being stuck in his throat, and remained etched on his conscience
for the rest of his life.
Similar deep traumas faced our troops during the 2nd world
war. A D-Day veteran Frank Rosier, recounted on BBC television how he
shot and killed a young blonde German soldier at close range in France
in 1944. Frank sat down beside the shattered remains of his enemy and
wept like a child.
The Conservative Member of Parliament from Buckie, Sir William Duthie,
who was later to show me around the House of Commons, and who kindly
wrote the foreword to my first book, told me of his WW1 experiences.
He was wounded at Passchendaele, and lay
bleeding from wounds in the mud of no-man’s land for two days.
Eventually he was found and taken to a hospital where he gradually
recovered. The experience affected his attitude to life from then
on. While he was convalescing, he received a letter from an older
acquaintance, a schoolteacher who he had thought before never held a
high opinion of him. The writer said that he believed Bill had the
character and ability to accomplish anything he set his mind to in
life. Young Duthie took that to heart and went on to a career in
banking in Canada, then in food supply organization in Britain during
the second war, then as a Member of Parliament for his home
constituency of Banffshire, and latterly as one of the finest honorary
Chairmen of the Royal National Mission to Deep Sea Fishermen. |
My grandparents’
generation lived through the period when the ‘workhouse’ was an ever
present danger to those who fell into destitution. The fear of that
dreadful place must have led to the virtues of thrift, hard work and
independence that characterized the sturdy sterling peasant people of that
time. The little city of Elgin produced such a character.
She was actually born in
Inverness, and brought up in Elgin, before being moved to an orphanage in
Skene. But Morayshire was the land she always claimed as home. Jessie
Grant MacDonald was born in a workhouse in 1916, and like the Dickensian
waifs she resembled, she was illegitimate. Her poor mother was a rich
store of songs and poetry but Jessie was taken from her by the authorities
in Elgin while still a juvenile. After orphanage and some farm service,
she married a Johnnie Kesson, a skilled farmhand. They moved to the Black
Isle where the couple had two children. Jessie possessed a remarkable
skill in writing, particularly in the Doric tongue. Her abilities were
noticed by Nan Shepherd and Neil Gunn, and she was soon writing for the
Scots Magazine, and for BBC Aberdeen radio.

Jessie Kesson, writer and
broadcaster
In 1958 she published her
first book, The White Bird Passes. It is a moving account of her
early childhood, and the deprivations and hardships she had to endure.
This was followed by Glitter of Mica in 1963, and Another Time,
Another Place, in 1983. By this time she was writing scores of plays
for radio, and even produced BBC’s Woman’s Hour, for a period. In
1980 the Universities of Aberdeen and Dundee awarded Jessie honorary
degrees, - a wonderful tribute to the illegitimate workhouse child brought
up in the back streets of Elgin. Jessie Kesson died in London in 1994.
An interesting aside to
her origins (which might have made great material for a Dickens novel),
concerns the identity of her father. Local reports in the town library
records indicate that it was believed he was the Sheriff Clerk and local
Solicitor, Jock Foster, though he never owned her publicly or made any
contribution to her upkeep or education. Foster’s main claim to fame was
the removal of Ramsay MacDonald from membership of the Moray Golf Club for
his anti-war pacifist views. Interestingly, Jessie’s conception and birth
occurred during the year of those events. One could scarcely conceive of
more different lives, and more different characters than Jessie Kesson and
her reputed parent, the arrogant Jock Foster. If the story is correct,
then at precisely the time when he was having Member of Parliament J. R.
MacDonald removed from the Golf Club, he was using, or indulging in an
illicit affair with, a poor Liza Macdonald in Elgin where he was a
prominent citizen, and she lived in the local workhouse from where she was
at times procured by male clients.
The first five years of my
life were the years of World War 2. I was born just after British troops
evacuated from Dunkirk, and Hitler’s forces took over Paris. My first
year was the year of the Battle of Britain that turned the tide of war and
prevented a German invasion from taking place. The young Spitfire and
Hurricane pilots who held the Luftwaffe at bay, rightly earned the respect
and admiration of the whole nation. As Churchill put it so well,
“Never in the history of human conflict, was so much owed by so many to so
few”. But other armed forces branches suffered severe losses,
including the Army, Navy, and merchant navy. Our little community lost
local men in each of these services.
My memories of the war
years are of service personnel in uniform, nissen huts, tanks traversing
our streets and breaking up the tarmac in places as they did so. I also
recall well the ration books with their precious coupons. Shops lacking
fresh foods, sold powdered eggs, and powdered milk. I think it was after
the war that the Attlee government provided vast quantities of
concentrated orange juice as a health food supplement for children.
Strangely, after a few years the orange juice lost its attraction, and the
public started to buy more expensive commercial juice which was probably
of a similar quality. Overall I do not recall any deprivation or hardship
in the war years. [Interestingly,
an East German friend of mine, now deceased, who fought in the war, and
was brought up during the 1920’s and ‘30’s, told me that he had no
childhood recollection of hardship in Germany though it certainly existed.]
We were more fortunate than city people, having regular access to fish,
and to produce from local farms or gardens. However, like most families
our diet was modest. Chicken was something we saw once a year, at
Christmas. It is strange recalling that now when it is a common and
low-cost meal. Food parcels from my mother’s half sister in Vancouver,
Canada, were a special treat during and after the war. I well remember
the Betty Crocker’s cake mixes. [Apparently
there never was a ‘Betty Crocker’. The name was concocted by the Mills
food corporation to add a personal touch to their flour and baking
products.]

Scapa Flow where many
fishers served during WW2

A Nissen hut from WW2 days

A Lancaster bomber of the
RAF. Such planes from RAF Lossiemouth sank the German battleship Tirpitz
in the Norwegian Tromso fjord on 12 November 1944. The 617 squadron was
led by CO JB Willy Tait, and was formerly commanded by Guy Gibson and
Leonard Cheshire.
Servicemen and service
women were often in our house. In wartime days, most doors were open to
them, and some lifelong friendships were formed then. I remember the
service women who visited my mother – the “WAAFs” as we called them. My
bachelor uncle told of a slightly amusing incident when a Polish soldier
who had practically no English, came into a house one evening where he was
sitting in the kitchen chatting with the housemaid. There was little else
to do in a wartime village evening, but visit. The Pole sat with them for
a while but as he could make little conversation, became somewhat
uncomfortable. Pulling a Polish-English dictionary from his pocket, he
found a word to which he drew my uncle’s attention. Looking at the maid
and my uncle, he pointed to himself as he indicated the word with a
question on his face. The word was “obstacle?” !
There were Nissan huts and
pill boxes all around town, and our beach still contains the huge concrete
blocks that were erected in rows to hinder invasion. Barbed wire was a
constant danger to young boys and we often tore clothes or cut our feet
when playing around it. Today all trace of the barbed wire, Nissan huts
and bonb shelters is gone. Only the beach guarding concrete blocks and
some pill boxes remain.
Our garden contained a
concrete air raid shelter, a rather flimsy construction as I recall, and
we had both gas masks and tin helmets in the house. A regular broadcast
we listened to was from the “British Forces Network in Germany” with
Wilfred Pickles as
compere, and
the theme tune, “Have a go Joe, come and have a go”. By then I
guess the war had ended, though apart from a faint memory of flags on
Victory Day, I scarcely recall its passing, nor the explosion of the first
atom bomb, three days after my 5th birthday, or the horrendous
destruction of Hiroshima and Nagasaki the following month.

My father and crew of the
MFV Resplendent repairing
gear at their net shed
which is now a fine restaurant.

The Resplendent INS 199 in
Aberdeen, 1946, after rescuing the crew of the
Newark Castle when that trawler sank in the North Sea. |