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i 



\ 



THE NEW 

STATISTI C AL ACCOUNT 



OP 



SCOTLAND. 



VOL. I. 






THE NEW 



STATISTICAL ACCOUNT 



OF 



SCOTLAND. 



BY 



THE MINI8TEB8 OF THE RESPECTIVE PARI8HE8, UNDER THE 
SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMMITTEE OF THE SOCIETY 

FOR THE BENEFIT GB THE SONS AND 
DAUGHTERS OF THE CLERGY. 



VOL. I. 

LIST OF PARISHES- 
EDINBUE6E 



WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, 

EDINBURGH AND LONDON. 

MDCCCXLV, 



^ 

^ 






LO 






EDINBURGH 



an 



\ 



CONTENTS 



BORTIiWICK, 


• 


PAGE loO 


CALDER, MID, 


• 


356 


CALDBR, WEST, 


• 


304 


CARRINGTON, 


• 


611 


COCKPEN, 


• 


. 606 


COLINTON, 


• 


107 


CORSTORPHINE, 


• 


205 


CRAMOND, 


• A 


589 


CRANSTON, 


• 


191 


CRICHTON, . , 


• 


56 


CURRIE, 


• 


542 


DALKEITH, 


• 


451 


DUDDINGSTON, 


• 


381 


EDINBURGH, 


• 


614 


FALA AND SOUTRA, 


• 


534 


OLENCORSE, 


• 


310 


HERIOT, 


• 


198 


INVERBSK, 


• 


246 


KIRKLISTON, 


• 


133 


KIRKNEWTON, 


• 4 


433 


LASSWADE, 


• 


323 


LBITH, 


• 


760 


LIBERTON, 


• 


1 


MIDCALDER, 


• 


356 


NEWBATTLE, 


t 


634 


NEWTON, 


• 


557 


NORTH LEITH, 


■ 


779 


PENICUIK, * 


• 


29 


RATHO, 


• 


76 


ROSLIN, 


• 


337 


SOUTH LEITH, 


• 


776 


STOW, 


• 


398 


TEMPLE, 


• 


49 


WEST CALDER^ 


• 


304 






REPORT 



OF THS 



COMMITT£E OF THE SoCIETY FOR THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS 

OF THE Clergy superintending the New Statistical 
Account of Scotland, 



TO THE 



General Assembly of the Church of Scotland. 



The Committee intimated to the General Assembly of 1832 
their desire to procure a New Statistical Account of Scotland ; 
which they proposed to obtain by requesting from the parochial 
Clergy a description of their respective parishes. 

The Greneral Assembly was pleased to approve of the undertak- 
ingy and to ^^ recommend to the members of the Church to give all 
the aid in their power toward its completion." 

The completion of the work, which is now at hand, furnishes 
another occasion to the Committee of respectfully bringing the 
suliject under the notice of the Assembly. The first Number was 
published in March 1834 ; the last Number is now at press, and 
will appear in the course of a few weeks. 

The work is comprised in 52 Numbers, which were issued regu- 
larly at stated times of publication. The whole, with the Ac- 
counts of the different parishes brought under their respective 
Counties, will be bound in 15 volumes. At the same time, the collect- 
ed Accounts of each of the Counties will be published in separate vo- 
lumes,---an arrangement for which the great extent of the under- 
taking had made it necessary to provide from the commencement 

It was intended, at first, to have concluded with a General Sum- 
mary of the more important facts whicht tlu'oughout the work, have 

VOL. I. A 



11 

been presented on the different branches of the inquiry. This part 
of the plan it has been judged expedient^ in the circumstances, to 
resign ; first, because it is, in a great measure, superseded by the sum- 
mary (in some instances ample and explicit) which has been ap- 
pended to each of the County collections : and next, because the 
purpose has been still further answered by a copious index, and by 
the d^ree in which it has been found practicable to arrange the 
matter of the several Accounts, uniformly, under a few distinct 
heads. 

If the work has exceeded the limits first proposed, this is to be 
ascribed to the circumstance, that many of the clergy addressed 
themselves to the task with more zeal and research, and with 
greater stores of information on the various subjects of inquiry, 
than could have been anticipated at the commencement The 
Committee might have noticed also, with some solicitude on this 
point, their own limited privilege of abridgment, (limited by the 
terms, on which the contributions were both asked and given ;) were 
they not assured that the enlargement of the work beyond the ex-> 
tent first intended, has been fully compensated by the greater inte- 
rest and value it has thus received. 

The Society were led^ as they formerly stated, to engage in this 
undertaking by the circumstance of then* havmg possessed the pro- 
perty of the first Statistical Account, which was conveyed to them 
by its benevolent and public-spirited projector. This, and the re- 
lation in which they stood to the Church, seemed to afford them 
an opportunity of doing a farther service to the public, by means 
of a new Account adapted to the present circumstances of the 
country. The prq)osal to obtain such an Account was first made 
• to them by their Secretary, Sir Henry Jardine. 

It is not exactly their part to estimate the value of the work 
which thus originated, or to determine how far its object has been 
attained. But, as it is truly the production of the clergy, the 
Committee may be permitted to observe, that the Church of Scot* 
land appears to them to have here furnished a compilation which 
must long be regarded as a monument of the intelligence of its 
clergy, and of that varied and intimate acquaintance with the af- 
fairs, history, condition, and resources of their parishes, which the 



Ill 

ecclesiastical constitution they enjoy gives them such peculiar op- 
portunities of obtaining. 

The Committee are well aware that errors and defects are insepa- 
rable firom a work of the nature and extent of the present; and 
they doubt not that this neceseity (for, in effect, it is nothing less) will 
be duly coniddered in any estimate of its merits. They would only 
suggest, as among the causes of any imperfection that may be obser- 
ved, — the want of a system of accurate registrations throughout the 
country, and the little opportunity which many of the contributors 
could enjoy to make the necessary investigations concerning the 
history of their parishes. They would notice, too, as the occafflon 
of a certain disadvantage, the unusual number of individuals con- 
tributing, and the consequent inequality in the execution of the 
parts ; were not this diversity, at the same time, the cause of a 
great part of the peculiar interest which, they hope, may be assumed 
as attaching to the work. Above all, it will be remembered 
that a Statistical Account of any country implies something more 
than the mere reporting of ascertained facts ; and that it can- 
not be accomplished, in all points completely, without great and 
various labour in the ascertainment of the fiicts to be reported, — 
by the scientific survey of its physical qualities, by inquiries into 
its past history and situation, and by the close investigation of its 
actual state, industrial, social, and moral. It was with such mul- 
tifarious preparation that the Ordnance Survey of Ireland pro- 
ceeded in compiling their admirable Memoir of ^the Parish of 
Templemore. But the same method could not be followed, to the 
same extent, in the present undertaking ; which was unaided by 
the public funds, and has been supported throughout by no 
other means than such as might be expected to be returned in the 
event of its success. It may be added, that the same condition of 
entire self-dependence necessarily affected the plan of the work ; 
which, it is readily admitted, would have been, in some respects, 
different under favour of other circumstances. 

In announcing the completion of the undertaking, the Commit- 
tee desire gratefully to acknowledge how much its progress was en- 
couraged by the interest which the General Assembly, at the com- 



IV 

mencement, expressed in its success. They desire/ also, to ac- 
knowledge the obligations under which they have been placed by 
the willing and able services of the Clergy. 

To Sir Henry Jardine the work has been indebted not only as 
already noticed, but for the judicious counsel which he was at all 
times ready to a£Pord in the various arrangements by which its pro- 
gress was promoted. In the same manner, much valuable assis- 
tance was obtained from Andrew Tawse, Esq. W.S., Treasurer to 
the Society. 

The Committee have further to acknowledge the important aid 
which, throughout the work, they derived from Professor Jameson, 
in the department of Natural History. Nor can they omit to 
record* how deeply indebted in this matter, are the Society, the 
Church of Scotland, and the country at large, to the enterprising 
publishers, Messrs Blackwood ; but for whose disinterested zeal 
for the public good, and generous reliance on the ultimate suc- 
cess of the undertaking, it may be truly said, it would not have 
been attempted. 

The Manuscripts of all the Accounts, as originally transmitted 
to the Committee, will be deposited among the Records of the 
Church. Except in the few instances in which these have been 
specially referred to, all that they contain of general interest or 
value appears in the printed Accounts. 

John Gordon, 

Sec^ io Superintending Committee and Ed, 
May 1845. 



At Edinburgh the thirty-first day of May Eighteen hundred and 

forty -five years. 
Which day the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland be- 
ing met and constituted, Mr Walter Cook gave in the Report of the 
Committee of the Society for the Sons and Daughters of the Clergy 
superintending the New Statistical Account of Scotland. The 
General Assembly having received the Report of the Society for the 
Sons and Daughters of the Clergy superintending the New Statis- 



tical Account of Scotland, express their satisfaction in the comple- 
tion of the important work which the Society and the Clergy have 
thus provided for the benefit of the country : and regarding both the 
'intention of the work and the care and intelligence which the Cler- 
gy have employed in its preparation as in the highest degree credit- 
able to them and to the Society, they trust that a recompense 
for their labours will be found in its acknowledged usefulness, by 
illustrating as it does the state and resources of the country ; and 
they would hope that its success otherwise may be so great as to 
afford some benefit to the fund under the management of the So- 
ciety. 

Extracted from the Records of the General Assembly of the 

Church of Scotland. 



1 



ALPHABETICAL LIST 



OF 



PARISHES. 



L- i 



-^ r- 



I: 



VJ 



li 



r 



k.. 



.•V 



t 

i 



>^«*1 



ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PARISHES. 



ABBEY ST BATHANS, 

ABBOTSHALL, 

ABDIE, 

ABERCOEN, 

ABERCROMBIE, 

ABBRDALGIE AND DrPPLIN, 

ABERDEEX, 

ABERDOUR) 

ABERDOUR, 

ABBRPOTLE, 

ABERLADY, 

ABERLEBfNO, 

ABERLOUR, 

ABBRNETHY, 

ABERNETHYy 

ABBRNYTE, 

ABOYNE AND GLENTANNER, 

AIRLIE, 

AIRTH, 

ALFORD, 

ALLOA, 

ALNESS, 

ALVA, 

ALVA, 

ALVBS, 

ALVIE, 

ALYTH, 

ANCRUM, 

ANNAN, 

ANSTRUTHER EASTER, 

ANSTRUTHER WESTER, 

ANWOTII, 

APPLECROSS, 

APPLEGARTH AND SIBBALDBIE, 

ARBIRLOT, 

ARBROATH, 

ARBUTHNOTT, 

ARDCHATTAN, 

ARDCLAGB, 

ARDERSIER, 

ARDNAMURCHAN, 

ARDROSSAN, 

ARNOASK, 

ARROCHAR, • 

ASHKIRK, 

VOL. I. 



VoL II. BERWICK, p. 105 

vol. IX. PIPE, p. 146 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 47 

vol. II. LINLITHGOW, p. 18 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 337 

VoL X. PERTH, p. 875 

vol- XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1 

vol, Xn. ABERDEEN, p. 258 

vol IX. FIFE, p. 716 

TOl. X. PERTH, p. 1 150 

VoL II. HADDINGTON,' p. 249 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 626 

vol. XIII. BANFF, p. 110 

VoL XIII. ELGIN, p. 92 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 838 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 219 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1047 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 670 

vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 28 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 485 

vol. VIII. CLACKMANNAN, p. I 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 332 

vol XIII. BANFF, p. 144 

vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 175 

vol. XIII. ELGIN, p. 101 

vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 8t 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 1110 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 241 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 516 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 295 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 611 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 373 
vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 99 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 170 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 332 
vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 74 
vol. XI. KINCARDINE, p. 153 
vol. VII. ARGYVE, p. 468 
vol. XIII. NAIRN, p 26 
vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 462 
vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 117 
vol. V. AYR, p. 191 
vol. X. PERTH, p. 882 
vol. VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 94 
vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 268 

B 



Popuim. 
in 1841. 

146 

4811 

1508 

2146 

1157 

360 

64778 

1643 

1916 

543 

1050 

1023 

1352 

1832 

1920 

280 

1138 

868 

1498 

1037 

10378 

1269 

1497 

2216 

913 

972 

2910 

1407 

5471 

997 

449 

883 

2861 

857 

1045 

8707 

1015 

1461 

1177 

1475 

5581 

4947 

750 

580 

563 



LIST OF PARISHES. 



ASSYNT, 


vol. 


ATHELSTANEFORD, 


vol. 


AUCHINDOIR AND KEARN, . 


vol. 


AUCHINLECK, 


vol. 


AUCHTERARDER, 


vol. 


AUCHTERDERRAN, . 


vol. 


AUCHTERGAVEN, 


vol. 


AUCHTERHOUSE, 


vol. 


AUCHTERLESS, 


vol. 


AUCHTERUUCHTY, . 


vol. 


AUCHTERTOOL, 


vol. 


AULDEARN, 


vol. 


AVOCH, 


vol. 


AVONDALE, 


vol. 


AYR, 


vol. 


AY TON, 


vol. 


BALDERNOCK, 


vol. 


BALFRON, 


vol. 


BALLANTRAE, 


vol. 


BALLINGRY, 


vol. 


BALMACLELLAN, 


vol. 


BALMAGHIE, 


vol. 


BALMERINO, 


vol. 


BALQUHIDDER, 


vol. 


BANCHORY-DEVENICK, 


vol. 


BANCHORY-TERNAN, 


vol. 


BANFF, 


vol. 


BARR, 


vol. 


BARRAY, 


vol. 


BARRY, 


vol. 


BARVAS, 


vol. 


BATHGATE, 


vol. 


BEATH, 


vol. 


BEDRULE, 


vol. 


BEITH, 


voL 


BELHELVIE, 


voL 


BELLI E, 


vol. 


BENDOCHY, 


vol. 


BENHOLMB, 


vol. 


BERTRAM SHOTTS, . 


vol. 


BERVIE, 


vol. 


BIGGAR, 


vol. 


BIRNIB, 


vol. 


BIRSAY AND HARRY, 


vol. 


BIRSE, 


vol. 


BLACKFORD, 


vol. 


BLAIR ATHOL, 


vol. 


BLAIR COWRIE, 


vol. 


BLANTYRE, 


vol. 


BOHARH, 


vol. 


BOINDIE, 


vol. 


BOLESKINE AND ABERTARFg 


^ vol. 


BOLTON, 


vol. 


BONHILL, 


vol. 


BORGUE, 


vol. 


BORROWSTOUNNESS, 


vol. 


BORTHWICK, 


vol. 


BOTHKENNAR, 


vol. 


BOTH WELL, 


vol. 



XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 105 
II. HADDINGTON, ]>• 41 
XII. ABERDEEN, p. 406 

V. AYR, p. 322 
X. PERTH, p. 265 

IX. FIFE, p. 165 

X. PERTH, p. 423 

XI. FORFAR, p. 648 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 285 
IX FIFE, p. 781 

IX. FIFE, p 249 
XIII NAIRN, p. 9 
XIV. ROSS, p. 381 

VI. LANARK, p. 301 
V. AYR, p. 1 

II. BERWICK, p. 130 
VIII. STIRLING, p. 169 

VIII. STIRLING, p. 288 
V. AYR, p. 415 

IX. FIFE, p. 446 

IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 98 

IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 178 

IX. FIFE, p. 577 

X. PERTH, p. 344 

XI. KINCARDINE, p. 178 
XI. KINCARDINE, p. 323 

XIII. BANFF, p. 1 

V. AYR, p 407 

XIV. INVERNESS, p. 198 
XI. FORFAR, p. 659 

XIV. ROSS, p. 141 

II. LINLITHGOW, p. 149 

IX. FIFE, p. 174 

III. ROXBURGH, p. 279 

V. AYR, p. 570 

•XII. ABERDEEN, p. 241 
Xlll. ELGIN, p. J 15 

X. PERTH, p. 1 176 

XI. KINCARDINE, p. 51 

VI. LANARK, p. 624 

XI. KINCARDINE, p. 1 
VI. LANARK, p. 354 
XIII. ELGIN, p 82 

XV. ORKNEY, p. 148 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 786 
X. PERTH, p. 297 

X. PERTH, p. 558 
X. PERTH, p. 896 
VI. LANARK, p. 314 

XIII. BANFF, p 355 

XIII. BANFF, p. 220 

XIV. INVERNESS, p. 51 
II. HADDINGTON, p. 271 
VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 220 
VI. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 47 
II. LINLITHGOW, p. 120 

I. EDINBURGH, p. 150 
VIII. STIRLING, p. 201 
VI. LANARK, p. 765 



Popula. 
in 1841. 

3178 
• 991 
1188 
1659 
3434 
1913 
3366 

769 
1685 
3356 

530 
1466 
1931 
6180 
8264 
1784 

972 
1970 
1651 

436 
1184 
1252 

993 

87 

2786 

2241 

3958 

959 
2363 
2124 
3850 
3928 

973 

256 
5795 
1594 
2434 

783 
1648 
3861 
J342 
1865 

407 
2406 
1295 
1782 
2231 
3471 
3047 
1261 
1501 
1876 

341 
6682 
1117 
2347 
1617 

849 
11179 



^ 



LIST OF PARISHBB. 



BOTllPHNIE, vol. 

BOURTRIB, VoL 

BOWDEN, VoL 

BOWER, vol. 

BRACADALBy . VOl. 

BRBCHEN, vol. 
BRESSAV, BURRA, AND QUARFP, VOl. 

BROU6HTON, GLENHOLM, AND . 

KILBUCHO, . •" 

BUCHANAN,^ vol. 

BUITTLE, vol. 

BUNKLE AND PRESTON, . vol. 

BURNTISLAND, VOl. 

CABRACH, . vol. 

CADDER, . vol. 

CAERLAV BROCK, . VOl. 

CAIRNIE, vol. 

CALLANDER, Vol. 

CAHBUSLANO, VOl. 

CAMBUSNETHAN, . VOl. 

CAMERON, vol. 

CAMPBBLTON, VOl. 

CAMPS IE, vol. 

CANISBAV, . vol. 

CANONBIB, vol. 

CAPUTH, . VoL 

CARDROSS, vol. 

CARESTON vol. 

CAROILL, . vol. 

CARLUKE, vol. 

CARMICHAEL, Vol. 

CARMUNNOCK, . vol. 

CARMTLIE, . vol. 

CARNBEE, . vol. 

CARNOCK, vol. 

CARNWATH, VOl. 

CARRIDEN, . vol. 

CARRIN6TON, . Vol. 

CARSPUAIRN, . vol. 

CARSTAIRS, . vol. 

CASTLETOWN, . VOl. 

CATHCART, . VOl. 

CAVERS, . vol. 

CAWDOR, . vol. 

CERES, • vol. 

CHANNELKIRK, . Vol. 

CHAPEL OF GARIOCH, VOl. 

CHIRNSIDE, vol. 

CLACKMANNAN, . Vol. 

CLATT, . vol. 

CLEISH, . • vol. 

CLOSEBURN, . Vol. 

CLUNY, . . vol. 

CLUNT, vol 

CLTNE, . vol. 

COCKBURNSPATH, . VOl. 

COCKPEN, . . vol. 

COLDINGHAM, . VOl. 

COLDSTREAM, • VOl. 



XIII. BANFF, p. 209 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 620 
III. ROXBURGH, p. 94 
XV. CAITHNESS, p. 114 

XIV. INVERNESS, p. 295 

XI. FORFAR, p. 129 

XV. SHETLAND, p. 7 

III. PEEBLES, p. 78 

VIII. STIRLING, p. 89 

IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 200 
II. BERWICK, p. 1 14 

IX FIFE, p. 404 

XIII. BANFF, p. 196 
VI. LANARK, p. 391 
IV. DUMFRIES, p. 349 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1017 

X. PERTH, p. 349 
VI. LANARK, p. 416 

VI. LANARK, p. 608 

IX. FIFE, p. 304 

VII. ARGTLE, p. 453 

VIII. STIRLING, p. 234 
XV. CAITHNESS, p. 21 
IV. DUMFRIES, p. 483 

X PERTH, p. 670 

VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 83 

XI. FORFAR, p. 518 

X. PERTH, p. 1167 
VI. LANARK, p. 563 
VI. LANARK, p. 517 
VI. LANARK, p. 597 

XI. FORFAR, p. 351 

IX. FIFE, p. 913 
IX FIFE, p. 690 

VI. LANARK, p. 76 

II. LINLITHGOW, p. 54 

I. EDINBURGH, p. 61 1 

IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 273 
VI LANARK, p. 547 
III ROXBURGH, p. 440 

VII. RENFREW, p. 495 

III. ROXBURGH, p. 425 

XIII. NAIRN, p. 19 
IX. FIFE, p. 517 

II. BERWICK, p. 88 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 560 
II. BERWICK, p. 124 

VIII. CLACKMANNAN, p. 121 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 84% 

IX. KINROSS, p. 32 

IV. DUMFRIES, p. 77 
XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1018 

X. PERTH, p. 1024 

XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 149 
11. BERWICK, p. 290 

I. EDINBURGH, p. 606 

II. BERWICK, p. 279 
II BERWICK^ p. 199 



XI 

Popula. 
in 1841. 

714 
469 
657 
1689 
1824 
7560 
1798 

764 

754 

1059 

748 

2210 

827 

4425 

1297 

1638 

1665 

3022 

5796 

1167 

9634 

6402 

2306 

3032 

2317 

4416 

218 

1642 

4802 

874 

717 

1107 

1043 

1270 

3550 

1208 

616 

790 

950 

2135 

S349 

1709 

1150 

2944 

786 

2038 

1203 

5145 

524 

681 

1530 

959 

763 

1765 

1149 

2345 

2746 

2857 



XII 



LIST OF PABI8HB8. 



COLINTON, 

COLLACEy 

COLLESSIE, 

COLMONELL, 

COLVEND AND SOUTHWICK, 

COMRIB, 

CONTIN, 

CORSTORPHINE, 

CORTACHY AND CLOVA, 

COULL, 

COUPAR ANGUS, 

COVINGTON AND THANKERTON, 

COYLTON, • 

CRAIG, 

CRAIGIE, 

CRAI6NISH, 

CRAIL, 

CRAILING, . 

CRAMOND, . 

CRANSBAWS, 

CRANSTON, 

CRATHIE AND BRAEMAR, 

CRAWFORD! OHNy 

CRAWFURD, 

CREICH, 

CRICHTON, 

CRIECH, 

CRIEFF, 

CRIMOND, 

CROMARTY, 

CROMDALE, 

CROSS AND BURNESS, 

CROSSMICHABL, 

CROY AND DALCROSS, 

CRUDEN, 

CULLEN, 

CULROSS, 

CULS ALMOND^ 

CULTER, 

CULTS, 

CUMBERNAULD, 

CUMBRAE, 

CUMMERTREES, 

CUMNOCK, NEW, 

CUMNOCK, OLD, 

CUPAR ANGUS, 

CUPAR FIFE, 

CURRIE, 

DAILLY, 

DAIRSIE, 

DALGETY, 

DALKEITH, 

DALLAS, 

DALM ELLINGTON, 

DALMENY, . 

DALRY, 

DALRY, 

DALRYMPLE, 

DALSERF, 



vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 107 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 210 

vol IX. FIFE, p. 21 

vol. V. AYR, p. 528 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 215 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 578 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 235 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 205 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 4>34 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 957 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 1 141 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 872 

vol. V. AYR, p. 649 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 244 

vol. V. AYR, p. 764 

vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 45 

vol. IX FIFE, p. 941 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 177 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 589 

vol. II BERWICK, p. 99 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 191 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 646 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 497 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 327 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 631 

vol. I, EDINBURGH, p. 56 

vol. XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 17 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 487 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 702 . 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 1 

vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 432 

vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 85 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 190 

vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 444 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 978 

vol. XIII. BANFF, p. 313 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 597 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 727 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 340 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 558 

vol. VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 135 

vol. V. BUTE, p. 69 

VoL IV. DUMFRIES, p. 244 

vol. V. AYR, p. 509 

vol. V. AYR, p. 475 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 1J41 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 1 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 542 

vol. V. AYR, p. 381 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 770 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 181 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 451 

vol. XIII. ELGIN, p. 178 

vol. V. AYR, p. 308 

vol. II. LINLITHGOW, p. 90 

vol. V. AYR, p. 210 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 369 

vol. V. AYR, p. 273 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 719 



Popiila. 
ml841. 

2195 

702 
1346 
2801 
1495 
2471 
1770 
1551 

867 

744 
2745 

523 
1464 
1945 

779 

873 
1737 

667 
1981 

120 
1128 
1712 

993 
1684 

430 
1384 
2682 
4333 

767 
2662 
3561 

983 
1321 
1684 
2349 
1564 
1444 
1104 

536 

889 
4501 
1413 
1277 
2382 
2836 
2745 
6758 
2000 
2272 

669 
1265 
5830 
1179 
1199 
1393 
4791 
1215 
909 
3205 



LIST OF PA&ISHES. 



DALTON, 


vol. 


DALZELL, 


vol. 


DAVIOT, 


vol. 


DAVIOT AND DUNLICHITY, 


vol. 


DEER, NEW, 


vol. 


DEER, OLD, 


vol. 


DELTIN6, 


vol. 


DENNY, 


vol. 


DBSKFORD, 


vol. 


DINGWALL, 


voL 


DIRLETON, 


vol. 


DOLLAR, 


vol. 


DOLPHIN TON, 


vol. 


DORNOCH, • 


vol. 


DORNOCK, 


vol 


DORRES, 


vol. 


DOUGLAS, 


vol. 


DRAINIB, 


vol. 


DREGHORN, ^ . 


voL 


DRON, 


voL 


DRUMBLADE, 


vol. 


DRUMMELZIER, 


vol. 


DRCMOAK, 


vol. 


DRYFESDALE, 


vol. 


DRYMEN, 


vol. 


DUDDINGSTON, 


vol. 


DUFFUS, 


voL 


DULL, 


vol. 


DUMFRIES, 


vol. 


DUN, 


voL 


DUNBAR, 


vol. 


DUNBARNY, 


vol. 


DUNBARTON, 


vol. 


DUNBLANE, 


vol. 


DUNBOG, 


vol. 


DUNDEE, 


vol. 


DUN DONALD, 


vol. 


DUNFERMLINE, 


vol. 


DUNINO, 


voL 


DUNIPACB, 


vol. 


DUNKELD AND DOW ALLY, . 


vol. 


DUNKELD, LITTLE, . 


vol. 


DUNLOP, 


vol. 


DUNNET, 


vol. 


DUNNICHEN, 


vol. 


DUNNING, 


voL 


DUNOTTAR, 


vol. 


DUNOON AND KILMUN, 


vol. 


DUNROSSNBSS, 


vol. 


nDUNSCORE, . 


vol. 


DUNSE, 


vol. 


DUNSYRE, 


voL 


DURINISH, . 


vol. 


DURISDEER, 


vol. 


DURNESS, . 


vol. 


DURRIS, 


vol. 


DUTHILL, 


vol. 


DYCE, 


vol. 



Included 



IV. DUMFRIES, p. 371 
VI. LANARK, p. 442 
XII. ABERDEEN, p. 821 

XIV. INVERNESS, p. 513 
XII. ABERDEEN, p. 175 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 138 

XV. SHETLAND, p. 56 
VIII. STIRLING, p. 1 15 

XIII. BANFF, p. 63 

XIV. ROSS, p. 210 

II. HADDINGTON, p. 20^ 
VIII CLACKMANNAN, p. 76 
VI LANARK, p. 40 

XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 1 

IV. DUMFRIES, p. 256 

XIV. INVERNESS, p. 373 

VI. LANARK, p. 477 
XIII. ELGIN, p. 145 

V. AYR, p. 523 

X. PERTH, p. 862 
XII. ABERDEEN, p. 297 

III. PEEBLES, p. 71 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 872 

IV. DUMFRIES, p. 451 
VIII. STIRLING, p. 99 

I. EDINBURGH, p. 381 

XIII. ELGIN, p. 33 

X. PERTH, p. 752 
IV DUMFRIES, p. 1 

XI. FORI^AR, p. 123' 

II. HADDINGTON, p. 70 
X, PERTH, p. 790 

VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 1 

X. PERTH, p. 1038 

IX. FIFE, p. 205 

XI. FORFAR, p. 1 

V. AYR, p. 666 
IX. FIFE, p. 821 

IX. FIFE, p. 356 
VIII. STIRLING, p. 379 

X. PERTH, p. 958 

X. PERTH, p. 1005 

V. AYR, p. 288 

XV. CAITHNESS, p. 34 

XI. FORFAR, p. 142 

X PERTH, p. 716 

XI KINCARDINE, p. 212 

VII. AR6YLE, p. 567 
XV. SHETLAND, p. 93 
IV. DUMFRIES, p. 336 
II. BERWICK, p. 246 

VI. LANARK, p. 64 

XIV. INVERNESS, p. 322 
IV. DUMFRIES, p. 323 

XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 82 

XI. KINCARDINE, p. 170 
XIII. ELGIN, p. 123 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 120 

in Larbert 



xm 

Popula. 
in 1841. 

638 
1457 

643 
1681 
3756 
4453 
2019 
4916 

860 
2100 
1497 
1562 

305 
2714 

847 
1745 
2467 
1515 
1222 

441 

945 

228 

811 
2093 
1515 
4366 
2529 

752 
11409 

581 
4471 
1104 
3828 
3361 

219 

62794 

6716 

20217 

471 

* 

1752 
2718 
1206 
1880 
1625 
2128 
1873 
4211 
4494 
1517 
3162 

288 
4983 
1445 
1109 
1109 
1769 

472 



XIV 

DYKE AND MOV, 

DTSART, 

BAGLESHAM, 

EARLSTON, 

EASSIE AND NEVAY, 

EASTWOOD, 

BCCL£S, 

ECCLESMACHAN, 

ECHT, 

ECKFORD, 

EDDBRACHILLIS, 

EDDBRTOUN, 

BDDLESTONE, 

EDINBURGH, 

EDINKILLIE, 

BDNAM, 

BDROM, 

BDZBLL, 

ELGIN, 

BLIE, 

BLLON, 

BRROL, 

BRSKINE, 

BSKDALEHUIR^ 

BTTRICK, 

BVIE AND RENDALL» 

EWES, 

ETBHOUTH, 

FALA AND SOUTRAy 

FALKIRK» 

FALKLAND, 

FARNELL, 

FARB, 

FBARN, 

FBARN, 

FBNWICK, 

PBRRT-PORT-ON-CRAIG, 

PETLAR AND NORTH TELL, 

FBTTERCAIRN, 

FBTTERBSSO, 

FINHAYEN, 

FINTRAT, 

FINTRY, 

FIRTH AND STBNNBSS, 

PLI6K, 

FODDERTY, 

FOGO, 

FDRDOUN, 

FORDYCB, 

FORFAR, 

FORGAN, 

FORGANDENNY, 

FORGLEN, 

FORGUE. 



FORRES, 

FORTEVIOT, 

FORTINGAL, 

F0S60WAY AND TULLIEBOLB 

FOULDEN, . 



LIST OF PABIBHBS. 



vol. 

voL 

voL 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

voL 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

voL 

vol. 

vol. 

voL 

vol. 

voL 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

voL 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol 

vol. 

vol. 

voL 

vol. 

voL 

vol. 

vol. 

roL 

voL 

vol. 

voL 

voL 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 



.*- 


PopuU. 
in 1841. 


XIII. ELGIN, p. 202 


1366 


IZ. FIFE, p. 127 


7591 


VII. RENFREW, p. 383 


2428 


II. BERWICK, p. 18 


1756 


ZI. FORFAR, p. 475 


732 


VII. RENFREW, p. 33 


7970 


II. BERWICK, p. 50 


1946 


II. LINLITHGOW, p. 109 


303 


ZII. ABERDEEN, p. 735 


1078 


III ROXBURGH, p. 220 


l(t69 


XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 1 18 


1699 


XIV. ROSS, p. 433 


975 


III. PEEBLES, p. 146 


742 


I. EDINBURGH, p. 614 


138182 


XIII. ELGIN, p. 159 


1^7 


III. ROXBURGH, p. 419 


615 


II. BERWICK, p. 266 


1415 


XI. FORFAR, p. 621 


1064 


XIII. ELGIN, p. 1 # 


6083 


IX. FIFE, p. 278 


907 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 899 


2941 


X. PERTH, p. 367 


28a2 


VII. RENFREW, p. *500 


1407 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 398 


046 


III. SELKIRK, p. 59 


525 


XV. ORKNEY, p. 196 


1518 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 437 


328 


II. BERWICK, p. 318 


1401 


I. EDINBURGH, p. 534 


393 


VIII. STIRLING, p. 1 


15621 


IX. FIFE, p. 920 


2886 


XI. FORFAR, p. 109 


620 


XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 66 


2217 


XL FORFAR, p. 31 1 


404 


XIV. ROSS, p. .360 


1914 


V. AYR, p. 773 


2018 


IX. FIFE, p. 81 


1741 


XV. SHETLAND, p. 23 


1745 


XI. KINCARDINE, p. 1 1 1 


1793 


XI. KINCARDINE>p. 244 


5212 


XI. FORFAR, p. 291 


420 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 166 


1032 


VIII. STIRLING, p. 38 


884 


XV. ORKNEY, p. 67 


1167 


IX. FIFE, p. 595 


270 


XIV. ROSS, p. 344 


2437 


II. BERWICK, p. 223 


455 


XI. KINCARDINE, p. 66 


2342 


XIII. BANFF, p. 178 


3442 


XI. FORFAR, p. 691 


9620 


IX. FIFE, p. 505 


1219 


X. PERTH, p. 948 


796 


XIII. BANFF, p. 83 


771 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 598 


2489 


XIII. ELGIN, p. 145 


3711 


X. PERTH, p. 1172 


638 


X. PERTH, p. 527 


2740 


X. PERTH, p. 1016 


: 1724 


11. BERWICK^ p. 261 


1 393 



POVERAN, 


vol. 


FOULI9 WESTER, 


vol. 


FRASERBURGH, 


vol. 


PTVIE, 


vol. 


GAIRLOCII, 


vol. 


GALASHIELS, 


vol. 


OALSTON, 


vol. 


GAMRIB, 


vol. 


GAROUNNOCK, 


vol. 


6ARTLY, 


vol. 


6ARVALD AND BARA, 


vol. 


6ARV0CK, . 


vol. 


GASK, 


vol. 


OIGHA AND CARA, 


vol. 


GlItTHON, 


vol. 


GIRVAN, 


vol. 


GLADSMUIR, 


vol. 


GLAMHISS, 


vol. 


GLASFORD, 


vol. 


GLASGOW, 


vol. 


GLASS, 


vol. 


GLASSART, 


vol. 


GLASSERTON, 


vol. 


GLBNBERVIE, 


vol. 


GLBNBUCKET, 


vol. 


GLENCAIRN, 


vol. 


GLENCROSS, 


vol. 


GLENDOVAN, 


vol. 


GLBNELG, 


vol. 


GLBNI9LA, 


vol. 


GLBNMUICK, TULLICH, AND 


vol. 


GLENGAIRN, 


GLENS KIEL, 


vol. 


GLENURCHY AND INISHAIL, 


vol. 


GOLSPIB, 


vol. 


GORDON, 


vol. 


GOVAN, 


vol. 


GRAITNEY, . 


vol. 


GRANGE, 


vol. 


GRBBNLAW, 


vol. 


GREENOCK, 


vol. 


GUTHRIE, . 


vol. 


HADDINGTON, 


vol. 


HALKIRK, . 


vol. 


HAMILTON, 


vol. 


HARRIS, • 


vol. 


HAWICK, 


vol. 


HBRIOT, 


vol. 


HOBKIRK, 


vol. 


HODDAM, 


voL 


HOLME AND PAPLAY, 


vol. 


ROLYWOOD, 


vol. 


HOUNAM, 


vol. 


HOUSTON AND KILLALLAN, 


vol. 


HOY AND ORAEMSAYy 


vol. 


HUMBIB, 


v<d. 


HUNTLY, 


vol. 


BUTTON, 


vol. 


BUTTON AND CORRIB, 


vol. 



PARISHES. 


XV 




Popula. 
In 1841. 




XII. ABERDEEN, p 697 


1690 


X. PERTH, p. 949 


1609 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. ^249 


3615 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. S16 


3597 


XIV. ROSS, p. 90 


4880 


III. SELKIRK, p. 1 1 


9140 


V. AYR, p. 178 


4334 


XIII. BANFF, p 971 


4741 


VIII. STIRLING, p. 48 


803 


XIII. BANFF, p. 95 


1037 


II. HADDINGTON, p. 96 


869 


XI. KINCARDINE, p. 22 


446 


X. PERTH, p. 981 


436 


VII. AR6YLE, p. 394 


550 


IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 991 


1874 


V. AYR, p. 394 


7494 


II. HADDINGTON, p. 173 


1699 


XI. FORFAR, p.- 337 


9167 


VI. LANARK, p. 294 


1736 


VI. LANARK, p. 101 


974633 


XIII. BANFF, p. 203 


886 


VII. AR6YLE, p. 675 


4700 


IV. WIGTON, p. 36 


1958 


XI. KINCARDINE, p. 165 


1996 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 436 


54S 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 330 


9094 


I. EDINBURGH, p. 310 


708 


X. PERTH, p. 333 


157 


XIV. INVERNESS, p. 128 


9799 


XI. FORFAR, p. 421 


1134 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 779 


9118 


XIV. ROSS, p. 181 


745 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 82 


631 


XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 24 


1914 


II. BERWICK, p. 33 


90S 


VI. LANARK, p. 668 


7810 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 262 


1761 


XIII. BANFF, p. 213 


1661 


II. BERWICK, p. 40 


1355 


VIT. RENFREW, p. 405 


86936 


XI. FORFAR, p. 489 


530 


II. HADDINGTON, p. 1 


5459 


XV. CAITHNESS, p. 68 


9968 


VI. LANARK, p. 249 


10869 


XIV. INVERNESS, p. 155 


4499 


III. ROXBURGH, p. 379 


6578 


I. EDINBURGH, p. 198 


S55 


III. ROXBURGH, p. 208 


776 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 289 


1697 


XV. ORKNEY) p. 204 


866 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 553 


1061 


III. ROXBURGH, p. 188 


980 


VII. RENFREW, p. 46 


9818 


XV. ORKNEY, p. 40 


547 


II. HADDINGTON, p. 100 


881 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1036 


3649 


II. BERWICK, p. 150 


1188 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 537 


809 



' 



XVI 



LIST OF PAKISHBS. 



INCH, 


• 


vol. 


INCHINNAN, 




vol. 


INCHTURE, 




vol. 


INNERKIP, 


\ 


vol. 


INNERLEITHEN, 




vol. 


INNERWICK, 




vol. 


INSGH, 


, 


vol. 


INVERARITY, 




vol. 


INVERARY, 




vol. 


INVERAVEN, 




vol. 


INVBRCHAOLAIN, 




vol. 


INVERRSK, 




vol. 


INVE^RKEILLOR, 




vol. 


INVBRKEITHINO AND ROSYTH, 


vol. 


INVERKEITBNEY, 




vol. 


INVERNESS, 




vol. 


INVERURIE, 




vol. 


IRVINE, 


. . 


vol. 


JEDBURGH, 




vol. 


JOHNSTONE, 




vol. 


JURA, 




voL 


KBIO, 




voL 


KBIR, 


. • 


vol. 


KEITH, 




vol. 


KBITHHALL AND KINKELL, 


vol. 


KEIJ^ 




vol. 


KBLSO, 




voL 


KBLTON, 




vol. 


KBMBACK, 




voL 


KEMNAV, 




vol. 


KBNMORB, 




vol. 


KENNETHMONT, 




vol. 


KEN NOWAY, 




vol. 


KETTINS, 




vol. 


KETTLE, 




vol. 


KILBARCHAN, 




vol. 


KILBIRNIB, 




vol. 


KILBRANDON AND KILCHATTAN, 


vol. 


KILBRIDE, . 


* 


vol. 


KILBRIDE, BAST, 


. 


vol. 


KILBRIDE, WEST, 


. 


vol. 


KILCALHONELL AND KILBERRY, 


vol. 


KILGHOMAN, 


• 


vol. 


KILCHRBNAN AND DALAVICH, 


vol. 


KILCONQUHAR, 


• 


vol. 


KILD ALTON, 


* 


vol. 


KILDONAN, 


. 


vol. 


KILDRUMMY, 


. 


vol. 


KILFINAN, 


• 


vol. 


KILFINICHEN AND KILVICEUEN, 


vol. 


KILLAROW AND KILMBNY, 


vol. 


KILLBAN AND KILCHENZIB, 


vol. 


KILLEARN, 


. 


vol. 


KILLEARNAK, 


• 


vol. 


KILLIN, 


• 


vol. 


KILMADAN, 


. 


vol. 


KILMADOCK, 


• 


vol. 


KILMALCOLM, 


. 


vol. 


KIUIALIE, 


• 


voL 





Popula. 
in 1841. 


IV. WIGTON, p. 80 


2950 


VII. RENFREW, p. 113 


678 


X. PERTH, p. 8S5 


765 


VII. RENFREW, p. 525 


3420 


III. PEBBLES, p. 24 


931 


II. HADDINGTON,. p. 233 


961 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 747 


1379 


XI. FORFAR, p. 234 . 


997 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 1 


2285 


XIII. BANFF, p. 123 


2417 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 108 


699 


I. EDINBURGH, p. S46 


8263 


XI. FORFAR, p. 239 


1879 


IX. FIFE, p. 230 


2530 


XIII. BANFF, p. 211 


687 


XIV. INVERNESS, p. 1 


15418 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 677 


2020 


V. AYR, p. 619 


5214 


III. ROXBURGH, p. 1 


5116 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 151 


1072 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 534 


2299 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 943 


662 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 460 


984 


XIII. BANFF, p. 388 


4456 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 743 


913 


IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 108 


1121 


III. ROXBURGH, p. 298 


5328 


IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 1 44 


2875 


IX. FIFE, p. 719 


778 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 817 


637 


X. PERTH, p. 452 


2539 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 583 


1107 


IX. FIFE, p. 375 


2044 


XI. FORFAR, p. 641 


1109 


IX. FIFE, p. 103 


2312 


VII. RENFREW, p. 352 


5595 


V. AYR, p. 689 


2631 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 71 


2602 


V. BUTE, p. 1 


2786 


VI. LANARK, p. 877 


3810 


V. AYR, p. 243 


1885 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 408 


2460 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 644 


4505 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 372 


943 


IX. FIFE, p. 315 


2605 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 659 


3315 


XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 133 


256 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 976 


627 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 359 


1816 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 296 


4113 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 668 


4026 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 376 


2402 


VIII. STIRLING, p. 60 


1224 


XIV. ROSS, p. 63 


1643 


X. PERTH, p. 1066 


1702 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 672 


567 


X. PERTH, p. 1224 


4055 


VII. RENFREW, p. 56 


1616 


XIV. INVERNESS, p. 117 


5397 



1 



LIST OF PABISHE6. 



KILMANY, . 

KILMARNOCK, 
KILMARONOCK, 

KILMARTIN, 

KILMAURS, . 

KILHONIVAIO, 

KILMORACK, 

KILMORE AND KILBRIDEy 

KILMORIBy « 

KILMUIRy 

KILMUIR EASTER, 

KILMUIR AND SUDDT, 

KILNINIAN AND KILMORE, 

KILNINVER AND KILMELFORD, 

KILPATRICK, NEW, 

KILPATRICK, OLD« , 

KILRENNT, . 

KILSPINDIE, 

KILSYTH, 

KILTARLITY, 

KILTEARN, 
KILWINNING, 

KINCARDINE, 

KINCARDINE MONTEITH, 

KINCARDINE 0*NEIL, 

KINCLAVEN, 

KINBLLAR, 

KINFAUNS, 

KINOARTH^ 

KING EDWARD, 

KIN6HORN, 

KINGLA8SIB, 

KINGOLDRUM, 

KINGSBARNS, 

KINGUSSIE, 

KINLOSS, 

KINNAIRD, . 

KINNBFP, 

KINNELL, . 

KINNETTLESy 

KINNOULL, . 

KINROSS, 

KINTAIL, 

KINTORE, 

KIPPEN, 

KIRKCALDY, 

KIRKBEAN, 

KIRKCOLM, • 

KIRKCONNELL, 

KIRKCUDBRIGHT, 

KIRKDBN, 

KIRKGUNZEON, 

KIRKHILL, 

KIRKINNER, 

KIRKINTILLOCH, 

KIRKLISTON, 

KIRKMABRBCK, 

KIRKMAHOB, 

XIRKMAIDBNy 

VOL. I. 



¥0l. IK. FIFE, p. 532 
vol. V. AYR, p. 535 
▼OL VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 211 
VoL VII. ARGYLE, p. 547 
vol. V. AYR, p. 769 
VoL XIV. iNVERNkSS, p. 503 
VoL XIV. INVERNESS, p. 361 
VoL VII. ARGYLE, p. 529 
VOL V. BUTE, p. 40 
VoL XIV. INVERNESS, p. 237 

voL XIV. ROSS, p. 300 
vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 57 

VoL VII. ARGYLE, p. 339 
vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 61 
vol. VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 36 
vol. VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 15 

rol. IX. FIFE, p. 970 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 1162 
VOL VIII. STIRLING, p. 138 
vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 483 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 313 

vol. V. AYR, p. 811 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 403 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 1243 
vol. XU. ABERDEEN, p. 831 
vol. X. PERTH, p. 1129 
vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 114 
vol. X. PERTH, p. 1205 
vol. V. BUTE, p. 82 
vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 274 
vol. IX. FIFE, p. 800 
vol. IX. FIFE, p. 194 
vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 61 1 
vol. IX. FIFE, p. 89 
vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 63 
VoL XIII. ELGIN, p. 195 
VoL X. PERTH, p. 228 
rol. XI. KINCARDINE, p. 309 
vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 393 
VoL XI. FORFAR, p. 206 
vol. X. PERTH, p. 993 
vol. XI. KINROSS, p. 1 
vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 170 
vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 655 
vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 264 
VoL IX. FIFE, p. 740 
vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 234 
VoL IV. WIGTON, p. 102 
VOL IV. DUMFRIES, p. 314 
VoL IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 1 
vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 383 
vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 218 
vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 459 
vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 9 
vol. VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 168 
VoL I. EDINBURGH, p. 133 
vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 311 
vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 53 
vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 196 

C 



xvu 

Popula. 
in l84L 

659 

19956 

931 

1233 

2617 . 

2791 

2694 

2773 

3455 

3625 

1486 

2565 

4335 

896 

3457 

7020 

2039 

709 

5613 

2869 

1436 

5251 

2108 

2232 

1857 

880 

483 

720 

931 

2492 

2935 

1155 
440 
968 

2047 

1202 
458 

1029 
853 
437 

2879 

2822 

1168 

1299 

1922 

5275 
891 

1973 

1130 

3525 

1483 
638 

1^29 

1769 

8880 

2989 

1854 

1568 

2202 



XVlll 

KIRKMICHAEL, 

KIRKHICIIAEL, 

KIRKUICHAELy 

KIRKMICHAEL, 

KIRKMICHAEL AND CULLICUDDEN, 

KIRKNEWTON, 

KIRKOSWALD, 

KIRKOWAN, 

KIRKPATRICK-DURHAM, 

KIRKPATRICK-FLEMING, 

K1RKPATRICK-IRONGRAT, . 

KIRKPATRICK-JUXTA, 

KIRKTOWN, 

KIRKURD, 

KIRKWALL, 

KIRRIEMUIR, 

KNAPDALE, NORTH, 

KNAPDALE, SOUTH, . 

KNOCKANDO, 

LADY, 

LADVKIRK, 

LAGGAN, 

LAIRG, 

LANARK, 

LANGHOLM, 

LANGTON, 

LARBERT, . 

LARGO, 

LARGS, • • 

LASSWADE, 

LATHERON, 

LAUDER, 

LAURENCEKIRK, 

LECROPT, 

LEGERWOOD, 

LEITH, 

LBOCHEL AND CUSHNIE, 

LERWICK, 

LESLIE, 

LESLIE, 

LBSMAHAGOW, 

LESSUDDEN, 

LESWALT, 

LETHENDY AND KINLOCH, 

LETHNOT AND NAVAR, 

LEU CHARS, 

LIBBERTON AND QUOTHQUHAN, 

LIBERTON, 

LIFF AND BENVIE, 

LILLIESLEAF, 

LINLITHGOW, 

LINTON, 

LINTRATHEN, 

LISHORE AND APPIN, 

LIVINGSTON, 

LOCHALSH, 

LOCHBROOM, 

LOCHCARRON, 

LOCHGOILHBAD AND KILMORICH, 



LIST OF PAKISHRS. 



vol. V. AYR, p. 492 

vol XIII. BANFF, p. 296 
vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 67 
vol. X. PERTH, p. 785 

voL XIV. ROSS, p. 37 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 433 

vol. V. AYR, p. 781 

vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 199 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 256 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 274 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 265 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 164 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 377 

vol. III. PEEBLES, p. 127 

vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 1 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 158 

vol. VII. ARGYLE,,p. 631 

vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 257 

vol. XIII. ELGIN, p. 60 

vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 133 

vol. II. BERWICK, p. 181 

vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 417 

vol. XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 58 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 1 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 416 

vol. II. BERWICK, p. 236 

vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 340 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 434 

vol. V. AYR, p. 786 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 323 

vol. XV. CAITHNESS, p. 83 

vol. II. BERWICK, p. 1 

vol. XI. KINCARDINE, p. 128 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 1160 

vol. II. BERWICK, p. 347 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 760 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1 102 

vol. XV. SHETLAND, p. 1 

vol- XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1019 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. Ill 

vol. VI. LANAR1(, p. 30 

vol III. ROXBURGH, p. 104 

vol. IV. WIGTON, p. \23 

vol X. PERTH, p. 1001 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 687 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 217 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 41 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 1 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 568 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 24 

vol. II. LINLITHGOW, p. 169 

vol. Ill ROXBURGH, p. 145 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 640 

vol. VII, ARGYLE, p. 223 

vol. II. LINLITHGOW, p. 115 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 260 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 72 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 107 

vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 701 



Popula. 
in 1841. 

2933 

1576 

llOA 

1412 

1549 

1441 

2030 

1423 

1484 

1692 

927 

934 

313 

305 

3599 

7085 

2no 

2223 

1676 

909 

504 

1201 

913 

7679 

2820 

479 

5982 

2751 

4044 

5025 

7637 

2198 

1904 

513 

571 

26433 

1084 

3284 

553 

3625 

6902 

747 

2712 

662 

400 

1901 

796 

3450 

3948 

771 

5950 

526 

981 

4193 

1004 

2597 

4799 

1960 

1018 



LIST OP PARISHES. 



LOCflLEE, 

LOCHMABEN, 

LOCHRUTTON, 

LOCHS, 

LOCHWINNOCH, 

LOG IE, 

L06IE, 

LOOIE BUCHAN, 

LOGIB COLDSTONE, 

LOGIE EASTER, 

LOGIE PERT, 

LOOIERAIT, 

LON6FOROAN, 

LON6FORHACUS AND ELLIM 

LON6SIDE, 

LONHAT, 

LOTH, 

LOUDON, 

LUCE, NEW, 

LUCE, OLD, 

LUMPHANAN, 

LUNAN, 

LUNDIE AND FOWLIS, 

LUSS, 

LYNE AND MEGGET, 

HACHAR, NEW, 

MACBAR, OLD, 

MADDERTT, 

HAINS AND STRATHMARTINE, 

MAKERSTON, 

MANNER, 

MARKINCH, 

MARNOCH, 

MARYCULTER, 

MARYKIRK, 

MARYTOWN, 

MAUCHLINE, 

MAXTON, 

MAVBOLB, 

MEARNS, 

MEIGLE, 

MELDRUM, 

MELROSE, 

MENMUIR, 

MERTON, 

METHLICK, 

METHTEN, 

MIDCALDER, 

MIDDLEBIE, 

MIDMAR, 

MINNIGAFF, 

MINTO, 

MOCHRUM, 

MOFFAT, 

MONEYDIE, 

MONIFIETH, 

MONIK1E, 

MONIMAIL, 

MONIVAIRD AND STROWAN, 



vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 191 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 377 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 286 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 157 

vol. VII. RENFREW, p. 74 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 426 

vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 214 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 799 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1070 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 52 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 263 

vol. X. PERTH y p. 685 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 405 

vol. II. BERWICK, p. 93 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 859 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 215 

vol. XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 188 

vol. V. AYR, p. 834 

vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 76 

vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 66 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1079 

vol. XL FORFAR, p. 320 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 455 

vol. VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 155 

vol. III. PEEBLES, p. 166 

vol. XIL ABERDEEN, p. 1025 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1074 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 748 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 54 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 137 

vol. III. PEEBLES, p. 1 10 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 655 

vol. XIII. BANFF, p. 382 

vol. XI. KINCARDINE, p. 189 

vol. XI. KINCARDINE, p. 297 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 115 

vol. V. AYR, p. 158 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 1 15 

vol. V. AYR, p. 348 

vol. VII. RENFREW, p. 512 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 232 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 474 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 51 

vol. Xt. FORFAR, p. 656 

vol. II. BERWICK, p. 26 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 962 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 142 

vol. 1. EDINBURGH, p. 356 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 363 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 629 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 1 17 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 352 

vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 60 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 102 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 198 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 539 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 485 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 37 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 723 

Included in Aberdeen. 



XIX 

Popula. 
in 184L 

622 
2809 

659 
3653 
4716 

419 
2200 

713 

936 
1015 
1560 
2959 
1660 

390 
2612 
1919 
2526 
4446 

652 
2448 

964 

272 

734 
1052 

175 

1262 

• 

634 
2110 

355 

270 
5965 
2601 

991 
2387 

452 
2156 

459 
7027 
3077 

728 
1873 
5331 

732 

722 
1737 
2446 
1456 
2150 
1093 
1826 

455 
2539 
2199 

315 
3471 
1317 

I1G2 

853 



XX 

MONKLAND, NEW, 

MONKLAND, OLD, 

MONKTON AND PRBSTWICK, 

MONQU HITTER, 

MONTROSE, 

MONYUUSK, 

MONZIE, 

BfOONZIE, . 

UORDINGTON, 

HOREBATTLE AND MOW, 

HORHAM, 

MORTLACH, 

MORTON, 

MORVERN, 

MOULIN,. 

MOUSWALD, 

MOY AND DALAROSSIK, 

MUCKAIRN, 

MUCKART, . 

MUIRAVONSIDE, 

MUIRKIRK, . 

MURROES, 

MUTHIL, 

NitIRN, 

NEILSTON, . 

NENTHORN, 

NESTING, • . 

NEW ABBEY, 

NEWBATTLE, 

NEWBURGH,. 

NEWBURN, 

NEWHILLS„ 

NEW LANDS, 

NEWTON, 

NEWTON ON AYR, 

NEWTYLE, 

NIGG, 

NIGG, 

NORTH BERWICK, 

NORTHMAVING, 

OATH LAW, . 

OCHILTREE, 

OLDHAMSTOCKS,. 

OLRICK, 

ORDIQUHILL, 

ORMISTON, 

ORPHIR, 

ORWELL, 

OXNAM, 

OYNE, 

PAISLEY, 

PANBRIDE, 

PARTON, 

PEEBLES, 

PENCAITLAND, 

PENICUICK, 

PENNINGHAMR, 

PENPONT, 

PERTH, 



LIST OF PA&ISHES. 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 242 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 635 

vol. V. AYR, p. 169 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 762 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 271 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 469 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 262 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 786 

vol. II. BERWICK, p. 337 

vol. II L ROXBURGH, p. 447 

vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 261 

vol. XIII. BANFF, p. 103 

vol. IV. I^UHFRIES, p- 91 

vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 163 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 637 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 442 

vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 97 

vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 509 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 301 

vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 205 

vol. V. AYR, p. 147 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p- 591 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 311 

vol. XIII. NAIRN, p. 1 

vol. VII. RENFREW, p. 307 

vol. II. BERWICK, p. 215 

vol. XV. SHETLAND, p. 53 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 244 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 63 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 56 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 124 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 237 

vol. III. PEEBLES, p. 135 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 557 

vol. V. AYR, p. 86 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 558 

vol. XL KINCARDINE, p. 195 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 18 

vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 317 

vol. XV. SHETLAND, p. 70 

vol. XL FORFAR, p. 291 

vol. V. AYR, p. 105 

vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 355 

vol. XV. CAITHNESS, p. 59 

vol. XIII. BANFF, p. 79 

vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 130 

vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 13 

vol. IX. KINROSS, p. 52 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 252 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 634 

vol. VII. RENFREW, p. 135 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 67 

vol- IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 282 

vol- III. PEEBLES, p. 1 

vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 344 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 29 

vol IV. WIGTON, p. 167 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 499 

vol. X. PERTH, p. I 



Popuk. 
in 1841. 

905J1 

19709 

1933 

S074 

15096 

895 

lS6i 

174 

399 

1051 

S87 

2594 

2161 

1774 

2017 

683 

967 

960 

706 

2249 

3125 

736 

3067 

3393 

10577 

446 

2294 

1049 

2033 

2897 

419 

2865 

1063 

1743 

4482 

1264 

1642 

1426 

1708 

2504 

420 

1601 

694 

1584 

637 

826 

1064 

2715 

653 

796 

60487 

1380 

808 

2632 

1127 

2572 

3672 

1266 

19293 



LIST OF PABISHES. 



PETERCULTER, VOl. 

PETERHEAD, , VoL 

I^BTTIE, . vol! 

PETTINAIN, vol. 

PITSLIGO, . vol. 

PITTENWBEM, Vol. 

POLMONT, , vol. 

POLWARTH, vol. 

PORT-OLASGOW, Vol. 

PORTMOAK, , vol. 

PORT OF MENTEITH, vol. 

PORTPATRICK, . vol. 

PORTREE, . vol. 

PREMNAY, . vol. 

PRESTONKIRK, . vol. 

PRBSTONPANS, VOl. 

QUEENSFERRY, Vol. 

RAFFORD, vol. 

RATMEN, . vol. 

RATHO, . vol. 

RATHVEN, vol. 

RATTRAY, Vol. 

RAYNE, . vol. 

RBAY, . vol. 

REDGORTON, VOl. 

RENFREW, vol. 

RERRICK, . vol. 

RESCOBIE, . vol. 

RHIND, . vol, 

RHYNIE, VoL 

RICCARTON, . vol. 

ROBERTON, VOl. 

ROGART, . vol. 

RONALDSHAY AND BURRAY, Vol. 

ROSEMARKIE, . vol. 

ROSENEATH, . vol. 

ROSLIN, vol. 

ROSSKEEN, vol. 

ROTHES, vol. 

ROTHESAY, Vol. 

ROTUIEMAY, Vol. 

ROTHIEMURCHUS, Vol. 

ROUSAY AND EAGLESHAY, Vol. 

ROW, vol. 

ROXBURGH, vol. 

RUTHERGLEN, . vol. 

RUTHYEN, . vol. 

RUTHWELL, . vol. 

SADDELL AND SKIPNESS^ . Vol. 

ST ANDREWS, . vol. 

ST ANDREWS, . vol. 

ST ANDREWS LHANBRYD, Vol. 

ST CYRUS, . vol. 

ST FERGUS, , vol. 

ST LEONARDS, VOl. 

ST MADOES, . vol. 
ST MARTINS AND CAMBUSUICUAEL, Yol. 

ST MONANS, vol. 

ST MUNGO, . vol. 



XII. ABERDEEN, p. 105 
XII. ABERDEEN, p. 344 
XIY. INVERNESS, p. 375 
YI. LANARK, p. 535 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 396 
IX. FIFE, p. 983 

VIII. STIRLING, p. 191 
II. BERWICK, p. ii;3I 
VII. RENFREW, p. 62 

IX. KINROSS, p. 30 

X. PERTH, p. 1095 
IV. WIGTON, p. 129 

XIV. INVERNESS, p. 218 
XII. ABERDEEN, p. 692 
II. HADDINGTON, p. 1 18 
II. HADDINGTON, p. 324 

II. LINLITHGOW, p. 1 

XIII. ELGIN, p. 238 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 293 
I. EDINBURGH, p. 76 

XIII. BANFF, p. 245 
X. PERTH, p. 239 
XII. ABERDEEN, p. 42 1 

XV. CAITHNESS, p. 12 

X. PERTH^ p. 562 

VII. RENFREW, p. 1 

IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 354 

XI. FORFAR, p. 596 

X. PERTH, p. 361 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1015 

V. AYR, p. 605 

III. ROXBURGH, p. 87 
XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 46 
XV. ORKNEY, p. 191 

XIV. ROSS, p. 348 

VIII. DUNBARTON,p. 102 
I. EDINBURGH, p. 337 

XIV. ROSS, p. 233 

XIII. ELGIN, p. 228 

V. BUTE, p. 95 
XIII. BANFF, p. 199 
XIII. ELGIN, p. 136 

XV. ORKNEY, p. 83 

VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 65 

III. ROXBURGH, p. 127 

VI. LANARK, p. 373 

XI. FORFAR, p. 413 

IV. DUMFRIES, p. 218 

VII. ARGYLE, p. 436 

IX. FIFE, p. 449 
XV. ORKNEY, p. 169 
XIII. ELGIN, p. 29 

XI. KINCARDINE, p. 269 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 185 

IX. FIFE, p. 497 

X. PERTH, p. 607 
X. PERTH, p. 873 
IX. FIFE, p. 337 

IV. DUMFRIES, p. 203 



PopuU. 
in 1841. 

1259 
7619 
1749 

416 
1582 
1339 
3584 

260 
7007 
1616 
1446 
2043 
3574 

691 
1R69 
2234 

721 

987 

227 
1815 
6728 
1918 
1542 
2811 
1929 
3079 
1692 

788 

402 
1035 
3226 

757 
1501 
3194 
1719 

941 
1807 
3222 
1843 
7147 
1227 

521 
1294 
3717 

979 
6513 

471 
1032 

846 
6017 

926 
1176 
1600 
1391 

554 

327 

1071 

1157 

*6l8 



xxu 

ST NINIANS, 

ST QUI VOX, 

ST VIOEANS, 

SALINE, 

SALT ON, 

SANDSTING AND AITUSTINti, 

SANDWICK, 

SANQUHAR, 

SCONE, 

SCOONIE, 

SELKIRK, 

SHAPIN8HAY, 

SKENE, 

SKIRLING, 

SLAINS, 

SLAHANAN, 

SLEAT, 

SMALHOLBf, 

SMALL ISLES, 

SNIZORT, 

SORBIE, 

SORN, 

SOUTHDEAN, 

SOUTHEND, 

SPETHOUTH, 

SPOT, 

SPROUSTON, 

SPYNIE, 

STAIR, 

STENTON, 

STEVENSTON, 

STEWARTON, 

STIRLING, 

STITCHELL AND HUME, 

STOBO, 

STONEHOUSE, 

STONETKIRK, 

STORNOWAY, 

STOW, 

STRACHAN, 

STRACUUR AND STRALACHLAN, 

STRAITON, 

STRANRAER, 

STRATH, 

STRATHBLANE, 

STRATHDON, 

STRATHMI6LO, 

8TRICHEN, 

STRICKATHROW, 

STROMNESS, 

STRONSAY AND EDAY, 

SWINTON AND SIMPRIM, 

SYMINGTON, 

SYMINGTON, 

TAIN, 

TANNADICE, 

TARBAT, 

TARLAND AND MIGVIK, 

TARVES, 



LIST OF PARISHES. 



vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 303 
vol. V. AYR, p. 118 
vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 489 
vol. IX. FIFE, p. 798 
vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 106 
vol. XV. SHETLAND, p. 97 
vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 41 
vol IV. DUMFRIES, p. 297 
vol. X. PERTH, p. 1043 
vol. IX. FIFE, p. 264 
vol. III. SELKIRK, p. I 
vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 79 
vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1096 
vol. III. PEEBLES, p. 99 
vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 598 
vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 273 
vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 317 
vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 141 
vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 145 
vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 287 
vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 22 
vol. V. AYR, p. 126 
vol. Ill ROXBURGH, p. 98 
vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 413 
vol. XIII. ELGIN, p. 51 
vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 224 
vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 235 
vol. XIII. ELGIN, p. 95 
vol. V. AYR, p. 637 
vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 55 
vol. V. AYR, p. 426 
vol. V. AYR, p. 727 
vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 390 
vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 456 
vol. III. PEEBLES, p. 121 
vol. VI. LANARK, p. 468 
vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 162 
vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 115 
vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 398 
vol. XI. KINCARDINE, p. 231 
vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 103 
vol. V. AYR, p. 333 
vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 94 
vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 300 
vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 7 1 
vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p- 585 
vol. IX. FIFE, p. 775 
vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 687 
vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 662 
vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 26 
vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 156 
vol. II. BERWICK, p. 186 
vol. V. AYR, p. 565 
vol. VI. LANARK, p. 867 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 280 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 198 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 460 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 839 
vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 667 



PopuU. 
in 1841. 

10080 
6055 
8793 
1057 

770 
2478 
1033 
3577 
2422 
2836 
3464 

935 
1846 

345 
121! 

979 
2706 

592 

993 
3220 
1700 
4054 

868 
1594 
1774 

603 
1439 
1164 

823 

686 
3791 
4656 
9095 

847 

465 
2471 
3062 
6218 
1734 

04J. 

1086 
1363 
3440 
3150 

894 
1563 
2187 
2012 

553 
2785 
2279 
1095 

918 

488 
3128 
1654 
1826 

1093 
2397 



LIST OF PARISHES* 



TEALING, 

TEMPLE, 

TEBRBGLBS, 

THURSO, 

TIBBBRMORE, 

TILLICOULTRY, 

TINGWALL, WHITENESS, AND 

WEESDALE, 
TINWALD AND TRAILFLAT, 
TIREE AND COLL, 
TONGLAND, 
TONGUE, 
TORBOLTON, 
TOROSAY, 
TORPHICHBN, 
TORRTDURN, 
TORTHORWALD, 
TOUGH, 
TOWIB, 
TRANENT, 
TRAQUAIR, 
TRINITY CASK, 
TROQUEBR, 
TULLIALLAN, 

TULLYNESSLE AND FORBES, 
TUNDERGARTH, 
TURRIFF, 
TWEEDSMUIR, 
TWYNHOLM, 
TYNRON, 
TYRIB, 

UDNT, 

UI6, 

UIST, NORTH, 

UIST, SOUTH, 

UNST, 

UPHALL, 

URQUHART, 

URQUHART AND 6LBNM0R1ST0N, 

URQUHART AND LOGIE WESTER, 

URR, 

URRAY, 

WALLS, 

WALLS AND FLOTTA, 

WALSTON, 

WAMPHRAY, 

WANDELL AND LAMINGTOUNE, 

WATTEN, 

^tkESi, • « 

WEHYSS, 

WESTC ALDER, 

WESTERKIRK, 

WESTRAY, . 

WESTRUTHER, 

WHITBURN, 

WHITEKIRK AND TYNNIN6HAME, 

WHITHORN, 

WHITSOME AND HILTON, 

WHITTINOHAME, 



vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 378 

vol. I. EDINBURGIi, p. 49 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 230 

VoL XV. CAITHNESS, p. 1 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 1029 

vol. VIII. CLACKMANNAN, p. 66 

vol. XV. SHETLAND, p. 59 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p-. 39 

VoL VII. ARGYLE, p. 195 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 63 

vol. XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 164 

vol. V. AYR, p. 741 

VoL VII. ARGYLE, p. 277 

VoL II. LINLITHGOW, p. 34 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 727 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 29 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 61 1 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 416 

vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 282 

vol. III. PEEBLES, p. 36 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 335 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 223 

VoL X. PERTH, p. 867 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 439 

vol IV. DUMFRIES, p. 195 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 981 

vol. III. PEEBLES, p. 56 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 37 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 478 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 717 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p 131 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 151 

VoL XIV. INVERNESS, p. 159 

vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 182 

vol. XV. SHETLAND, p. 36 

vol. II. LINLITHGOW, p. 85 

vol. XUI. ELGIN, 44 

vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 36 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 363 

VoL IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 247 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 399 

vol. XV. SHETLAND, p. 19 
vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 70 
vol. VI. LANARK, p. 846 
vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 137 
vol. VI. LANARK, p. 805 
VoL XV. CAITHNESS, p. 49 
VoL X. PERTH, p. 702 
vol. IX. FIFE, p. 390 
vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 304' 
vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 429 
vol. XV. ORKNEV, p. 114 
vol. II. BERWICK, p. 63 
vol. II. LINLITHGOW, p. 76 
vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 29 
vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 52 
vol. II. BERWICK, p. 166 
vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 61 



XXIU 

Popula. 
in 1841. 

854 
1159 

564 
4881 
1651 
3213 

2957 

1085 

5833 

842 

2041 

2612 

1616 

1417 

1435 

1346 

762 

748 

3887 

682 

620 

4351 

3196 

846 

524 

3146 

276 

777 

474 

2639 

1450 

3316 

4428 

733 

2831 

1467 

1082 

3104 

2997 

3090 

2716 

2449 

1558 

493 

509 

354 

1266 

890 

5403 

1666 

638 

2131 

829 

2593 

1170 

2795 

622 

700 



XXIV 



LIST OF PARISHES. 







Popula. 
in 1841. 


WICK, 


vol. XV. CAITHNESS, p. 117 


10393 


WIGTON, 


vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 1 


2562 


WILTON, 


vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 76 


1867 


WISTON AND ROBERTON, . 


vol. VI. LANARK, p. 93 


929 


YARROW, 


vol. III. SELKIRK, p. 29 


1264 


YELL, MID AND SOUTH, 


vol. XY. SHETLAND, p. 82 


1705 


YESTER, 


vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 153 


1069 


YETHOLH, . 


vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 159 


1225 



^>T^ 






ijDjjKSifKii'asi SMMsa. 



PARISH OF LIBERTON. 

PRESBYTERY OF EDINBURGH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. JAMES BEGG, M. A., MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — The real etymology of Libertoo, formerly written Li- 

bertun, is somewhat doubtful, although it is obviously of Saxon ori- 
gin. Most probably, the name is a corruption of Lepertan, and arose 
from the circumstance, that an hospital for the sick of fldinburgh 
was situated at or near it, although all traces of such an institu- 
tion have long since vanished. This supposition derives probabi- 
lity, both from the elevated, dry, and very healthy nature of the 
whole district, quite near to, and overlooking the city of Edin- 
burgh, and from the lands of Liberton being called in certain old 
writings the lands of SpitaUtown — Spital being synonymous with 
hospital in our old language. 

Extent and Boundaries. — The figure of this parish is exceed- 
ingly irregular. It extends from nearly the eastern extremity of 
the Pentland hills to within a few yards of the sea, near Fisher- 
row, and from Edinburgh to within a mile of Dalkeith. It is thus 
nearly 7 miles long, and about 4 miles broad. In the centre, it is 
nearly square, but towards the east it becomes very narrow, and 
runs out to a sharp point for nearly two miles, between the pa- 
rishes of Newton and Inveresk on the one side, and Duddingstone 
on the other, in the form of a wedge.* It is bounded on the north 
and west, by the parish of St Cuthberts ; on the north-east, by 
Duddingstone ; on the east, by Inveresk ; on the south-east, by 
Inveresk, Newton, and Dalkeith ; on the south, by Lasswade ; and 
on the south-west, by Colinton. 

Topographical Appearances— ^Climate^ <J-c. — The surface is very 
undulating, and beautifully diversified with plains and rising grounds, 
ascending occasionally to a considerable elevation, and, from their 

■ 

* This irregular shape arises from the clrcumsUmce, that this is, properly speaking, 
a united parish,— the portion of it beyond Craigmillar Castle having, in former 
times, been connected with the chapel at Niddry. 

EDINBURGH. A 



2 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

more elevated positions, commanding a magnificent view of the 
city of Edinburgh, the Pentlaud, Braid, and Blackford hills, Ar- 
thur's Seat, the Frith of Forth, the coasts of Fife and East Lo- 
thian, and, indeed, of the whole surrounding district, which is in 
many respects the most interesting in Scotland. It is the ** Heart 
of Mid- Lothian," and there is not in Britain a more commanding 
view of rich and varied scenery, including wood, water, a fine city, 
and a richly cultivated country, than may be had from Craigmil- 
lar Castle, the high grounds above Mortonhall, the ridge of Gilmer- 
ton, or the neighbourhood of Liberton church. The land of the 
parish, too, being in the highest state of cultivation, and almost all 
thoroughly drained, the climate is very dry and salubrious. The 
people are, in general, healthy, and many live to an old age. Epi- 
demical diseases seldom exist ; although in 1832, cholera was very 
fatal in Gilmerton and some of tlie neighbouring villages, no per- 
son being seized who was engaged in agriculture. The tempera- 
ture of the parish varies in the difierent districts, the lower district 
towards the sea coast being much warmer, and the operations of 
husbandry being, in general, nearly a fortnight earlier at Niddry 
and Brunstane than at Straiton and Morton. The parish is inter- 
sected by two rivulets, by which eight water mills are driven. 

Geology J'^ — The parish of Liberton forms part of the great car- 
boniferous deposit of Mid-Lothian. On the north and north-west 
side, the felspar and clinkstone of Braid and Blackford hills have 
elevated the sandstone deposits to a considerable height. These 
consist of the various layers of the carboniferous sandstones, which 
constitute the greater part of the surface of the valley of Mid- Lo- 
thian. On the northern declivity of the road leading from Liber- 
ton to Edinburgh, a coarse conglomerate makes its appearance, 
being here elevated to the surface, and which is probably one of 
the lowermost beds of the sandstone deposit. 

A line commencing from Burdiehouse, and extending in a 
slightly curved direction to Joppa, forms the northern boundary of 
the coal-field of Mid- Lothian. Along this line there is an exten- 
sive slip and an abrupt elevation of the lowermost members of the 
coal basin. Burdiehouse quarry consists of a bed of limestone 
27 feet thick, with several feet of bituminous shale, superimposed. 
It crops out abruptly to the surface in a westerly direction, and 
dips at an angle of 25^ to the eastward. Two faults interrupt the 
continuity of this limestone bed, and are distinguishable from the 

• The remarks under this head were written by William Rbynd, Esq. 



LIBERTON. 3 

limestone, by their composition, which is of a brecciated cha- 
racter. 

The limestone is disposed in regular beds, and is of a light 
grayish colour below, and dark blue above. The shale, partly in- 
terposed between the limestone, and partly lying above, is of a la- 
minar and highly bituminous nature. This limestone contains in- 
numerable minute shells of the genus Cypris, a species of Unio, and 
several other fresh water MolluscsL It is also full of beautiful and 
most perfect impressions of cryptogamic plants, such as several spe- 
cies of SphenapteriSf Lepidodendrons^ Lepidoatrobus^ &c Entire im- 
pressions of small fishes, and numerous scales and fragments of 
bones, chiefly of the ganoid order of Agassiz, are also abundant, 
together with bones, scales, teeth, and faecal remains of Sauroid 
fishes of very large dimensions. This same limestone, characte- 
rized by its fresh water remains, is also seen cropping out at More- 
dun. '^The Gilmerton limestone appears from its position to lie 
above the Burdiehouse strata, and its organic remains, unlike the 
other, are exclusively marine. This bed is also about 27 feet 
thick. Below, is a hard compact limestone, with numerous remains 
of encrinites; above, are layers of a coarser limestone, called by the 
workmen blaes^ alternating with layers of bituminous shale. In 
these layers Productiy Spiriferi and other shells are abundant. This 
limestone also dips to the east and south-east at an angle of about 
25% and lies below the great coal basin, which commences imme- 
diately to the south. 

Both limestones are very pure, containing about 95 per cent, 
carbonate of lime, and they have been extensively quarried and 
burnt for useful purposes. 

At Niddry quarry, the same tilting up of the strata is visible, 
and here they consist of sandstone, shale, coal, and limestone. The 
same section extends onwards to Joppa, and terminates in the Frith. 

At St Catherine's is a well which contains a quantity of mineral 
oil or petroleum, obtained most probably from the spring flowing 
over some portion of the coal beds. This bituminous matter floats 
copiously on the surface of the water, and is also partially dissolved * 
ip it. The spring is reckoned medicinal by the country people, 
and may have some slight efiicacy in cutaneous eruptions. 

II. — Civil History. 
Account of the Parish* — There is a very elaborate account of 
this parish, written by the Rev. Thomas Whyte, who was ordain- 
ed minister of Liberton in 1752, and published amongst the 



4 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Transactions of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland. It will 
be found to contain an elaborate account of all the places and im- 
portant families in the parish. 

Land'Otoners. — The principal land-owners of the parish are, 
Walter Little Gilmour, Esq. of Liberton and Craigmillar; Richard 
Trotter, Esq. of Mortonhall and Charterhall; Andrew Wauchope, 
Esq. of Niddry-Marshal ; Sir David Baird of Newbyth ; David 
Anderson, Esq. of Moredun ; the Marquis of Abercorn ; Sir Wil- 
liam Rae of St Catherine's ; Miss Innes of Drum ; Miss Sivright 
of Meggetland ; James Johnston, Esq. of Straiten ; Sir Robert 
Dick of Prestonfield : Lord Melville ; Wardlaw Ramsay, Esq. of 
Whitehill ; Mrs Gilchrist of Sunnyside ; John Wauchope, Esq. 
of Edmonstone ; John Tod, Esq. of Todhills ; Robert Bruce, Esq. 
of Kennet ; and William TulHs, Esq. of Mount Vernon. 

Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers, which have been 
preserved, begin in 1639, and have been pretty regularly kept since. 
Those connected with the business of the kirk-session alone 
amount to twelve volumes. They were lately rescued from the 
dust in which they lay, thoroughly inspected, the torn and decayed 
leaves repaired, and the whole handsomely bound, and deposited, 
with other valuable parochial documents, in a (ire*proof charter- 
chest. 

Cekbrated Characters* — Amongst the celebrated characters con- 
nected with this parish may be mentioned Mr Clement Little of 
Upper Liberton, who founded the College Library of Edinburgh, 
(Arnot's History, p. 414.) John Trotter, Esq. of Mortonhall, 
Merchant in Edinburgh, founder of the present branch of that fa- 
mily, born in 1558, seems to have been a distinguished man in his 
day. He left in charity to the town of Edinburgh 4000 merks ; 
to St Paul's Hospital 2000 merks ; and a considerable sum to Tri- 
nity Hospital. He also built two chambers in the College of Eklin- 
burgh, for two bursars of philosophy, and left 700 merks to the 
town of Lanark. Sir Symon De Preston of Craigmillar was Pro- 
vost of Edinburgh, in 1565, immediately after the Reformation, 
and, in his house in town. Queen Mary lodged on the fatal night 
she left the army at Caerberry hill, (Keith, p. 402, 409-4 10.)— 
Two of the Gilmours of Craigmillar were also distinguished for 
their ability as lawyers about the time of the Restoration of Charles, 
and one of them, Sir John Gilmour, was made Lord President of 
the Court of Session, (Nicolson's Historical Library, p. 369-70.) 
Gilbert Wauchope of Niddry, (a family of at least nearly 500 years 



LIBERTON. 5 

standing in the parish, and perhaps now the oldest family in Mid- 
Lothian,) was a member of the Scottish Parliament in 1560, 
when Popery was abolished and the Protestant religion set up ; and 
we find another member of the same family, Sir John Wauchope 
of Niddry, a zealous Covenanter, (See Guthrie's Memoirs,) and 
a member of the General Assembly in 164di The late proprie- 
tor was also for many years a representative of the Presbytery of 
Edinburgh in the General Assembly. Sir James Stewart of Good- 
trees, who was Lord Advocate of Scotland, from 1692 till 17)3, 
may be mentioned as one of the distinguished persons connected 
with this parish. The lady of Little of Liberton was one of the 
martyrs during the persecution. She was imprisoned in 1685 for 
harbouring conventicklers^ and was only set at liberty in conse- 
quence of her husband agreeing to be confined as her substitute. 
(Fountainhall, i. 863.) — The Rev. Samuel Semple, chosen by the 
heritors and elders, under the Revolution settlement, ordained on 
the 31 St of August 1697, and minister of Liberton for upwards of 
forty-four years, seems to have been a man of some note. From 
the records it appears that he conducted the business of the pa- 
rish with much vigour, and the General Assembly appear to have 
looked to him for a History of the Church of Scotland, which, 
however, he did not live to finish. His monument, lately renewed, 
is placed on the tower of the church. The Rev. Thomas Whyte, 
who wrote the account, to which we have already referred, must 
have been a man of learning and research. And in more distant 
times the Rev. John Davidson, minister of this parish in 1582, a 
man of great zeal and talent, discharged, by appointment, the task 
of excommunicating Montgomery, minister of Stirling, who makes 
such a figure in the annals of our Presbyterian Church, as having 
endeavoured to thrust himself into the office of Archbishop of 
Glasgow, in defiance of the General Assembly. 

CivU Antiquities^ Sfc. — In the neighbourhood of Mortonhall 
there are several tumuli^ which are supposed to have originated 
with the Romans. Right west, also, from Mortonhall, there is a 
hill, called Galachlaw, which beci^me famous as the encampment 
of Oliver Cromwell in 1650, with no less than 16,000 men, before 
the battle of Dunbar, (Hume's Hist Vol. ii. p. 24.) 

At St Catherine's, there is the famous well, before alluded to, 
anciently called the Balm Well Black oily substances constantly 
float on the surface of tbe water. However many you remove they 
still appear as numerous as before. In ancient times a sovereign 



6 EDINBUIIGHSHIUE. 

virtue was supposed to reside in this well, and it was much frequent- 
ed by persons afflicted with cutaneous complaints. The nuns of the 
Sheens made an annual procession to it in honour of St Catherine- 
King James VI. visited it in 1617, and ordered it to be property en- 
closed and provided with a door and staircase, but it was destroy- 
ed and filled up by the soldiers of Cromwell in 1650. It has again 
been opened and repaired, and is now in a good state of preserva- 
tion. 

The whole of the lands of Mortonhall and St Catherine's in an- 
cient times formed part of the princely estate of the Sinclairs of 
Roslin, — the Trotters being originally from Catchelraw, in Ber- 
wickshire, and a very old family there. 

Burdiehouse is supposed to be a corruption of Bourdeanx^ 
hottse^ and to have been so called by some of Queen Mary's French 
attendants in 1561. 

There is at Gilmerton a singular cave, dug out of the solid rock. 
It contains several apartments, and was finished in 1724 by an ec^ 
centric inhabitant of that place, after five years hard labour. The 
person by whom it was made lived with his family, and carried on 
his occupation as a smith, in this place till 1735. It is still visited 
by the curious. 

In the lawn of Drum, the ancient residence of the Somerville 
family, right opposite the front of the house, stands the old mar- 
ket-cross of the city of Edinburgh. It was brought here in 1756. 
It is composed of several stones, 20 feet high, and 18 inches in 
diameter, and ornamented with thistles, the ancient badge of Scot- 
land. 

The Castle of Craigmillar is one of the most striking historical 
objects in this parish. The name is Gaelic, Craig-moil^ard^ and 
signifies a rock, bare and high, running out into a plain. It is im- 
possible to say how old this Castle is. The wall around it was 
built in 1427, as appears firom the inscription on the gate, and the 
modem portion to the west was built in 1661 by Sir John Gil- 
mour, then Lord President of the Court of Session, and was, for 
some time, the mansion-house of the family. The Castle belong- 
ed for 300 years to the Prestons of Gowrton or that ilk, and be- 
came the property of the Gilmours about 1661. John Earl of Marr, 
a younger brother of James III., was confined here in 1477. It 
was for some time the residence of James V. during his minority, 
when he left Edinburgh, because of the plague, (Leslie's History, 
p. 368.) It was taken, and partly burnt and demolished, accord- 



LIBEUTON. < 

ing to Pitscottie, by the English in 1543. But what gives it its 
chief interest as connected with Scottish history, is the fact, that 
Queen Mary chose to reside here as much as possible after her 
return from France in 1561. A room is still shown in the Castle 
as Queen Mary's bedroom, only 7 feet long by 5 broad, but it pro- 
bably was not devoted to that purpose. At the foot of Craigmil- 
lar hill there is a small village, called Little France, which was no 
doubt the place where the French servants of the Queen resided. 
The tradition of the place points to a venerable sycamore tree as 
having been planted by Queen Mary. The ruins of the Castle 
are still strong and well-preserved, and the situation is one of the 
most noble and princely that can be imagined. The grounds have 
lately been much ornamented by clumps of beautiful trees. 

The only other fact connected with the civil history of the pa- 
rish which I shall mention is, that on the Borough Muir, now part- 
ly farmed by Mr Dale, and the property of W. L. Gilmour, Esq. 
James IV. reviewed his troops before he set out for the fatal field 
of Flodden in 1513, (Maitland's Hist, of Edin. p. 178.) 

Ecclesiastical Antiquities — Churches. — In ancient times there 
were three places of worship in this parish ; namely, one at Libera 
ton, one at St Catherine's, and one at Niddry. The remains of 
the chapel and burying-ground at St Catherine's have long since 
disappeared, although " some persons yet alive," says Mr Whyte, 
** remember to have seen the chapel ;" but there are still some 
traces of the chapel at Niddry, and, in particular, there is still a 
burying-ground in which the people of the district continue to bury 
their dead. The chapel at Niddry was founded by Robert Wau- 
chope of Niddry- Marshal in 1387, and dedicated to the Virgin 
Mary. The minister of it, who was connected with the Abbey of 
Holy rood, had, besides other privileges and emoluments, a manse, 
an acre of ground, pasture for two cows, and twelve merks per an- 
num from the lands of Pylmuir, in the parish of Currie, which be- 
longed to the proprietor of Niddry. The old chapel and burying- 
ground were at the west end of the mansion-house, but, in 1685, 
the burying-ground was removed to the south-west side of the gar- 
den, where it still remains. The church of Liberton itself belong* 
ed to the parish of St Cuthbert's previous to 1124, (Arnot's His- 
tory of Edinburgh, p. 5.) The patronage of Liberton, with an 
acre of land contiguous to the church, belonged afterwards to Sir 
John Maxwell, who bestowed them on the Monastery of Kilwin- 
ning in the year 1367, and this was ratified by David II. in 1370, 



8 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

(Appendix to Nisbet's History, p. 161.) How long this state of 
things continued does not appear. But at length they became the 
property of the Abbey of Holyroodhouse, as appears from Keith's 
History of the Scots Bishops, (p. 28.) In 1607, Mr John Both- 
well of Whitekirk, first Lord Holyroodhouse, received a grant 
of the patronage, rectorship, and tithes of Liberton, (Crawford's 
Peerage, p. 185-6.) But his son was forced to resign them when 
a bishoprick was erected at Edinburgh. At the Revolution, the 
heritors and elders of course named the minister, but by the Act 
of Queen Anne the patronage became the property of the Crown, 
— Wauchope of Niddry claiming, and, it is supposed, exercising a 
conjunct right of patronage from his connexion with the ancient 
chapel of Niddry-Marshal. This right has lately, however, been 
disputed by the Crown. 

In connexion with this subject it may be mentioned, that a Pres- 
byterian chapel was erected at Craigmillar during the indulgence 
granted by James VII. which, at the termination of the persecu* 
tion and the restoration of Presbyterian worship, became unneces- 
sary, and is now used as a stable or out-house. There is also at 
Bridge-end a chapel built by James V., near a place which he used 
as a hunting'lodge, but it also is now turned into a stable. 

Church Lands. — The lands which lie west and south-west of 
the church of Liberton were church lands, and termed Vicar's 
Acres. They are so denominated in the entail of Mr Little of 
Liberton. To the east of St Catherine's there is a rising ground 
formerly called Priest Hill, now Grace Mount, which probably 
was connected with the chapel of St Catherine's, and occupied by 
the officiating minister. Near the Craigs is a piece of land, called 
the Kirk'landsj extending to about five acres, which formerly be- 
longed to the church or chapel of Liberton. A part of Craig- 
millar hill belonged to the Abbey of Dunfermline, as appears from 
Haddington's Collections. It was mortified in pure and perpetual 
alms, as appears from a charter of mortification in the reign of 
Alexander II. in 1212. The lands of Inch belonged to the Abbey 
of Holyrood, as appears from a charter in the reign of James IL 
(see Register- Office.) 

There was in ancient times a mill at Nether Liberton, the tithes 
of which were bestowed by King David on the Abbey of Holy- 
roodhouse. The Black Friars of Edinburgh also received six 
merks annually from the proceeds of this mill. 

The Buigh Muir, now in a high state of cultivation, formerly be«> 

4 



LIBEUTON. 9 

longed to the nuDs at the Sheens or Sciens, so called from Ca- 
therine of Sienna, an Italian. This appears from a charter of 
confirmation in 1516. 

There belonged to the vicarage of Liberton a husband iand io 
the manor of Gilmerton. (Inquis. Special. 1607, iv. 93.) 

Ministers of Liberton since the Reformation. — 1. The first mi- 
nister of Liberton after the Reformation was Mr Thomas Cran- 
ston, previously minister of Borthwiek. He entered to his stipend 
here, which only amounted to 200 merks, or L. 11, 2s. 2i9d., at 
Lammas 1569, and was translated to Peebles at Whitsunday 1570. 

2. The second minister was Mr John Davidson, a man of great 
zeal and talent, who laboured here till 1584, * but was afterwards 
minister of Prestonpans, where we find him in 1596. + He was 
greatly admired in both parishes, and eminently useful. Fleming, 
in his Treatise concerning the Fulfilling of the Scriptures, refers 
to him as a distinguished saint. 

9. The next was Mr John Adamson, who was minister of this 
parish in 1616, and a member of the Assembly which met that 
year in^ Aberdeen. He was afterwards translated to Edinburgh, 
and made Principal of the College, in which capacity he sat in the 
Glasgow Assembly 1638. He was reckoned a man of learning. 

4. Mr John Cranston was minister of Liberton in 1625, 1626, 
and 1627. 

5. Mr Andrew Learmonth was minister from 1629 until 1636. 

6. Mr Archibald Newton was translated to Liberton from Dud- 
dingston. May 19, 1639. During his ministry, the Covenant was 
renewed and subscribed by all ranks at Liberton *with great so- 
lemnity4 He died June 2, 1657. 

7« Mr Andrew Cant was admitted minister of Liberton, March 
10, 1659. He was translated to the College Church, Edinburgh, 
July 13, 1673, and in 1683 was Principal of the Edinburgh Uni- 
versity. 

8. Mr Ninian Paterson from Glasgow was ordained minister 
of Liberton, October 14, 1674, during the Restoration of Episco- 
pacy. A violent resistance was made to his settlement, and the 
persons engaged in it were put into the pillory, § both at Edin- 
burgh and Liberton. He was distinguished by his taste for Latin 
poetry, but only continued minister here for five years. 

• Spottiswood's History. f Caldcrwood. $ Records of the Kirk- session, 

g Wodrow. 



^>3^ 






so-MsiiTiiSii asi^a. 



LIDERTON. 11 

Modem Buildings. — The church of Liberton is a very hand- 
some Gothic structure, with a fine tower in a comnaanding situa- 
tion, erected in 1815 from a plan by James Gillespie Graham, 
Esq. Its interior arrangements, however, are not in keeping with 
the elegance of the external building. The gallery projects too 
far, and is besides flat, dark, and too near the roof, which gives 
the church an uncomfortable appearance, and prevents the people 
from seeing and hearing with advantage. A slight alteration 
would vastly improve it both in appearance and comfort. A very 
handsome chapel was erected at Gilmerton in 1837. Besides 
these public buildings, there are many very handsome houses in the 
parish, the residences of the several proprietors. Amongst these 
may be mentioned the Inch House, the oldest date to be found on 
which is 1617 : Mortonhall, an admirable house, finished in 1769, 
and which the present proprietor has still farther improved : 
The House of Drum erected by Lord Sommerville : Moredun, a 
delightful residence, erected by Sir James Stewart : Niddry, a very 
ancient baronial residence, with a large and handsome modern ad- 
dition; and the^house of Brunstane, erected by Lord Lauderdale in 
1639. The houses of Southfield, Sunnyside, St Catherine's, and 
Mount Vernon, are also excellent and beautifully situated. 

III. — Population. 
The population of this parish seems always to have been con- 
siderable. From an old roll of communicants, without a date, 
amongst the session records, it appears that the number of persons 
in full communion with the church was then 700. In 1755 the po- 
pulation was 2793 souls. In i786, when Mr Whyte's Account 
was made, the population amounted to 3457. 

Thepopttlation wasin 1801, . S565 

1811, . 4033 

1821, . 4276 

1831, «)6d 

The number of families in the parish in 1831, .... 922 

chiefly employed in agriculture, . . .145 

in trade, manufactures, or handicrafit, 201 

The number of illegitimate births during the last three years 
has been about 22. 

The population since 1831 has rather diminished. This has arisen 
chiefly from the suspension of the coal-work at Gilmerton, which 
has not only forced many of the colliers to seek work elsewhere, 
but dispersed some of the carters, who formerly employed them* 
selves in driving coals from Gilmerton to Edinburgh. 

Resident Proprietors. — There are very few resident proprietors 
in this parish, which is a great disadvantage in every respect. 



12 EDINBUUGHSHIRE. 

Mrs Gilmour of Craigmillar ; Richard Trotter, Esq. of Mor- 
tonhall; David Anderson, Esq. of Moredun; and Sir William 
Rae, are the only proprietors of any note who do reside, and some 
of these only occasionally. Their residence, however, and the 
efforts made, and contributions given for the temporal and spiritual 
good of the people, are a source of great advantage to the parish. 

Insane Persons. — There are several insane persons. The kirk- 
session lately maintained wholly or in part no fewer than five, one 
of whom had been supported in the same way for thirty years, and 
cost the parish about L.600. 

Peculiar Gaiwc*.— The only peculiar games here are what are 
called " carter's plays." The carters have friendly societies for the 
purpose of supporting each other in old age or during ill-health, 
and with the view partly of securing a day's recreation, and partly 
of recruiting their numbers and funds, they have an annual pro- 
cession. Every man decorates his cart-horse with flowers and rib- 
bons, and a regular procession is made, accompanied by a band of 
music, through this and some of the neighbouring parishes. To 
crown all, there is an uncouth uproarious race with cart-horses on 
the public road, which draws forth a crowd of Edinburgh idlers, 
and all ends in a dinner, for which a fixed sum is paid. Much 
rioting and profligacy often take place in connexion with these amuse- 
ments, and the whole scene is melancholy. There are other so- 
cieties in the parish which hav^ also annual parades with a similar 
result. These societies haye undoubtedly been in some respects 
useful, but the^^* plays" are fortunately rapidly declining; and it is 
to be hoped that savings' banks, in which there is neither risk nor 
temptation to drunkenness, will soon become the universal depo- 
sitories for the surplus earnings of the people. 

General Habits of the People, — Amongst so many people, there 
is of course a great variety of character. The farmers are a highly 
respectable class of men, — men of great skill and capital, some of 
whose ancestors have been here for 200 years, and their servants 
have in general clean comfortable houses, and are very sober and 
industrious. The colliers and carters, on the other hand, are, in 
many instances, improvident and careless, although amongst both 
classes there are many exceptions. Some of the people are ex- 
cessively ignorant ; a few grown up persons can neither read nor 
write. In the villages, generally, there is, I lament to say, a me- 
lancholy want of vital religion, and, in many instances, even of the 
appearance of it. There is also amongst some of the people a sin- 
gular torpor and insensibility to moral and religious obligations. 



LlBEllTON. 13 

This has arisen chiefly from the want of proper schools ; the long 
want of a church in Gilmerton, and of sufficient moral and religious 
instruction for other portions of the floating population of this ex- 
tensive parish ; from the dreadful prevalence of whisky-shops ; and 
the vicinity of Edinburgh, which throws out some of the refuse of 
its population upon us, and, in many ways, tends to lower the tone 
of our society. The prevalence of a practice amongst the higher 
classes in Edinburgh of hiring unmarried country girls to nurse 
their children is, in an obvious way, one of the most fruitful parents 
of vice in this parish. I can scarcely believe that the persons who 
employ these girls are sufiiciently aware of this, although the mi- 
nister and elders cannot shut their eyes to it. We are doing our 
utmost to remedy these evils, and with some success. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculhtre. — This is one of the most important agricultural pa- 
rishes in Scotland, although the number of acres habitually under 
cultivation is only 3998. Besides these there is in grass about 370 
acres, and under wood or in gardens and shrubberies perhaps 350 
acres more, making in all 47 1 8 acres. The cultivated land is divided 
into thirty-four farms, varying in size from 40 to 268 acres, the 
majority, however, being upwards of 100 acres, and six of them be- 
ing upwards of 200 acres. In some instances, two or evei) more 
of these farms are cultivated by the same individual, making the 
quantity of land held to be more than 300 acres. 

Soilj Rotation of Crops, ^c— The soil of the parish is various, 1. 
The greatest proportion of it, in the lower districts, is a rich loam, 
made so by manure and draining, the soil being naturally bad. This 
portion is at present in the highest state of cultivation of which our 
climate will admit, the proof of which will be found in the stknount 
of the rents paid, and the high price its grain bears in the market. 
The rotation of crops which formerly prevailed, was, 1. potatoes or 
turnips, 2. wheat or barley, 3. grass, 4. oats. But, owing to the fail- 
ure of the grass crop, when so often repeated, a rotation of five crops 
was adopted, viz. 1. potatoes, 2. wheat, 3. barley, 4. grass, 5. oats. 
But there are so many variations, that no fixed rule can be given. 
2. The next kind of soil is a thin clay, with a retentive subsoil, which 
prevails in the higher districts of the parish, but which is in a rapid 
course of improvement by means of draining. Mr Jamieson of 
Straiten, and Mr Allan of Broomhills, are at present draining ex- 
tensively. The rotation of crops observed upon this soil is, 1. 
fallow or potatoes, 2. wheats 3. grass, 4. oats. 3. In the imme- 



14 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

diate neighbourhood of the Pentland hills^ od the farm of Morton 
for example, the soil is .generally a dry gravel, the rotation ob- 
served on which is, L turnips or potatoes, 2. barley or wheat, 3. 
grass, 4. oats. 

Bent J Produce^ Manure^ Servants^ Wages^ jfc— The rent of 
land varies from L. 3 to L. 7 an acre. A common rent is 
L. % 2s. with a boll of wheat and a boll of barley an acre. 
Grass lets at about L. 5 an acre, although some of Sir Robert 
Dick's parks, (which are supposed to have been enriched by the 
shrewdness of one of his ancestors, who, being Provost of Edin- 
burgh, turned a large portion of the waste sweepings of the town 
upon his lands,) are let this year as high as L. 10 an acre. The 
valued rent of the parish is L. 13,685, 6s. 8d. Scotch ; the real 
rent in 1828 was L. 27,944, 3s. 2d. This includes rents of farms, 
mines, houses, &&, the particulars of which I have in a statement 
beside me. It also includes the rents of seventy-eight houses under 
L. 2 a-year. Tliis document was carefully drawn up by the late 
schoolmaster after a strict investigation. Potatoes are the prin- 
cipal crop in this parish. They are raised for the Edinburgh 
market. The average number of acres bearing this crop annually 
is 685, producing 2^124 bolls, or 34 bolls an acre. These are 
sometimes sold on the ground at from L. 14 to L. 20 an acre. The 
manure applied varies from 30 to 50 cart-loads at 5s. a cart-load, 
the expense being about L. 12 an acre. The quality of the po- 
tatoes is very superior. The cultivation and produce of other 
crops is at an average as follows : 215 acres are devoted to tur- 
nips, the produce being 5345 tons, or 25 tons an acre ; 19 acres 
to beans, the produce being 152 bolls, or 8 bolls an acre ; 738 
acres to wheat, the produce being 6416 bolls, or 8^ bolls an acre ; 
490 acres to barley, the produce being 2990 bolls, or 6 bolls an 
acre ; 850 acres to oats, the produce being 8063 bolls, or 9^ bolls 
an acre; 1001 acres to grass, the produce being 132,340 stones 
of hay, or 200 stones an acre.* This is sometimes let as green 
crop at from L. 15 to L. 22 an acre. The manure applied to this 
parish at an average is nearly 40,000 tons per annum. All kinds 
of grain are of excellent quality, the weight of wheat being 62 lbs. 
a bushel ; barley 55 lbs. ; oats 42 lbs. These statements are not 
made at random, but are the result of a careful investigation made 

* These arc of course the averages of the whole parish. Instances have been known 
of single fields producing far larger crops. Potatoes have been known to grow at the 
rate of 80 bolls, and sometimes even more an acre, and one farmer assured me Uiat 
from one acre he raised 19 bolLs of oats or 132 bushels. 



LIBERTON. 15 

in regard to every farm in the parish, the answers being received 
from the farmers themselves. Very few cattle are reared or fed here, 
owing to the high price received for turnips, viz. from L. 1 5 to 
L. 20 an acre ; but that immense cattle can be reared, will appear 
from the fact, that Mr Johnston of Niddry had last year a bullock 
of his own rearing, which, at three years old, weighed nearly 130 
stones Dutch. The wages of married ploughmen are L. 16 in 
money, 6^ bolls of meal, 3 bolls of potatoes, I month*s meat in 
harvest, and a free house and garden. A few of a better class re- 
ceive L. 2 more. Young unmarried men receive L. 5 and board* 
Women's wages are from 8d. to 9d. a day. Shearers in harvest 
receive lOd. or Is. 3d. a day, but have sometimes received as high 
as 2s. and food, which consists of admirable porridge and milk, at 
morning and night, the porridge made in a large boiler, into which 
half a boll of meal is often thrown, whilst the mess is stirred with 
an immense staff seized in the centre, and fastened at the top, 
which thus is made to work with a lever power. An Irish shearer 
has been known to eat 9 lbs. weight of these excellent porridge. 
At noon the shearers get bread and beer. 

Improvements required, — Nothing of this nature stands so much 
in need of improvement as the farm-offices. Some of the cottages, 
too, are much in want of being renewed, and constructed with two 
apartments each. They are on some farms worse than the stables. 
A most important effort is being made at present by the High- 
land Society, to secure greater neatness and cleanliness in the cot- 
tages ; and Mr Trotter of Mortonhall is powerfully seconding 
their efforts in this parish, by doubling the premiums offered, and 
adding two of his own. The result undoubtedly has already been 
highly beneficial. A good deal also requires to be done, and 
something is being done at present, in the way of enclosing, 
especially on the Liberton estate, and in the way of planting the 
tops of the hills towards the west, which will greatly add to the 
beauty of the landscape, and break the force of the west wind, 
which is here by far the most violent, — the result of which is that 
the trees on the rising grounds are all bent towards the east 

Horses. — The horses are mostly of a superior kind, and are ge- 
nerally highly fed, which is a proof of the prosperity of agricul- 
ture. The horse which obtained the prize at the exhibition of the 
Highland Society at Glasgow, last year, was reared by Mr Law 
of Morton, one of the farmers of this parish. It is supposed to be 
one of the largest and most handsome horses in the world. Another 



16 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

splendid horse, which also received several premiums, was reared 
at the same time by Mr Jamieson of Straiten. 

Modern Improvements. — One of the most important agricultural 
improvements introduced into this district has been the steam 
thrashing-mill. By its use time and labour are equally saved, and 
one of the farm-servants can soon be trained to act as engineer. 
One has been erected at Niddry, and another at Straiton, with 
engines of six horse-power, made by Douglas of Edinburgh. They 
thrash easily 60 bushels of grain an hour, requiring^ however, the aid 
of nine women, six men, and two carts and horses, in feeding the 
mill, and clearing away the grain and straw. Thus 600 bushels can 
easily be thrashed in a day. There are besides in the parish seven 
water thrashing-mills, and one windmill. The rest of the grain is 
thrashed by horse-power. Flails are unknown. The ref^ise of 
saltpetre has lately been applied to grass as a manure, with great 
success. It is sown upon the grass in February or March, the 
worth of L. 1 being applied to an acre. It acts as a powerful 
stimulant, and sends up a dark green luxuriant bulky crop. Soot 
produce3 nearly the same result. Amongst the most important 
improvements may be reckoned sowing machines, which are of two 
kinds, 1. the drilling-machine, by which oats and other grain can 
be sown with the utmost regularity and precision. The effect be- 
sides is to save seed, and to enable the farmer thoroughly to clear 
out weeds between the drills, by means of the Dutch hoe : 2. The 
broad-cast machine made by Secular of Haddington is an immense 
improvement It sows at once a breadth of 18 feet as fast as a horse 
can walk, or 4 acres an hour, holding as much seed at once as will 
sow an acre, and only requiring one man and one woman to manage 
it, but requiring eight horses to harrow in the seed. It costs L. 10, 
but is so profitable in the way of saving seed, and insuring good sow- 
ing, that, in the opinion of the most skilful farmers here, a farmer of 
any extent had better borrow the money required than be without 
one, as it will amply save the value of itself in one year. It is pe- 
culiarly valuable in sowing grass seeds, a most difficult operation, 
especially when they are mixed with clover seed, which being 
heavy, requires to be continually stirred up amongst the grass seeds, 
and thrown out with a considerable impulse. It is difficult to get a 
servant who will take the trouble ; but the sowing machine secures 
this object most effectually, by stirring the seed continually, and 
sowing it with such power, that in the face of a tempest, (a sad 
enemy to the ordinary sower) its operations are unimpeded. In a 



LIBERTON. 17 

word, there is all the difference here which exists between the power- 
ful and steady action of a steam-vessel, and the feeble and irregu- 
lar motion of a paddle boat Besides, the use of this machine 
forces the farmer to straight his furrows, and square his fields, which 
will be found a mighty advantage in ploughing, harrowing, reaping, 
and every other operation of husbandry. There is an instrument 
in use here, which I have not seen in the west of Scotland, called 
a ffrubbeTj which is drawn by one horse, and is used with effect in 
clearingoutthe weeds between the drills of potatoes and turnips, thus 
making the operation of hoeing much easier, and niore effectual. 
The horse rake also may be mentioned as a modern instrument, 
which is employed in raking over the whole ground, cut with the 
sickle after the grain is carried, and thus clearing off the entire crop. 
Carts here cost L. 12; a pair of harrows L. 3; an iron plough 
(wooden ploughs being discarded,) L. 3; and smiths receive L. 3, 
10s. for every plough kept on a farm, for which they are bound both 
to supply iron and keep the farming implements in order. 

Waste Lands reclaimed. — The upper part of the farm of Li- 
berton Tower Mains, where it joins the Braid hills, containing from 
12 to 20 acres, was formerly covered with furze and brushwood. 
Mr Brockie, the tenant, obtained a lease of it for 5s. an acre, and it 
is now entirely cleared, and converted into good land, bearing all 
kinds of crops. The land, too, in the barony of Broomhills, of which 
Mr Whyte says, that ^^ the expense of draining and putting it into 
order, would far exceed any profits that might thence arise," was 
lately drained, and is in the rapid course of improvement, and 
will, it is believed, amply repay the expense incurred. It amounts 
to about 40 acres. There is scarcely, therefore, a rood of waste 
land in the parish. 

Pigs and Poultry. — Most of the farmers keep poultry, some of 
them a large number. On some of the farms the ordinary stock 
of common fowls is sixty or seventy, besides turkeys, geese, and 
ducks, so that at Niddry Mains, for example, there may sometimes 
be about 200 of these creatures. The geese grow to a large size, 
weighing sometimes not less than 1 stone of 16 oz. Poultry 
are not reckoned profitable in any other sense, than that they 
are supported by grain gathered in the barn-yard, which other- 
wise would Be lost. Pigs are also kept about all the farms. They 
also receive little food except what they pick up in the straw 
yard, and yet they become very large and fat, weighing often 16 
or 17 stones Dutch. They thrive much better in consequence of 

EDINBURGH. B 



18 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

being thus allowed to go at large ; those with short heads and up* 
right ears are reckoned best, and in the market the white are 
reckoned more valuable than the black. 

Leases. — The general duration of leases is nineteen years. 

Gardens^ Sfc. — Gardening is carried on in this parish with great 
skill and success. The soil is peculiarly adapted to the growth 
of vegetables of all kinds. I have seen even in the manse garden 
an early cabbage weighing 16 oz. The earliest strawberries in the 
Edinburgh market are sometimes raised at Stenhouse. In 1692, 
they were ripe as early as the 6th of June. There are admira- 
ble and most productive gardens, with forcing houses, at Mor- 
tonhall, St Catherine's, Inch, Moredun, Drum, Sunnyside, South- 
field, and an excellent garden at Niddry. The Moredun gar- 
dens are still as famous as when Mr Whyte*s account was written, 
and no expense is spared in improving them by the present ex- 
cellent proprietor. Besides moveable glass frames, there is ex- 
posed to the light in the vineries, peach-houses, and pine-pits, at 
Moredun, upwards of 8223 square feet of glass. Hollies thrive ad- 
mirably in this soil, and there are not only many splendid speci- 
mens, but whole hedges of this beautiful plants At Moredun there 
is a holly hedge, very tall, and reaching the whole breadth of the 
garden, and at Niddry a very splendid one, 30 feet high, which, 
when annually cut, are of course scaled by ladders. These hedges 
are like solid evergreen walls. There are several very large trees 
in this parish. A sycamore tree at Niddry measures 19 feet in 
circumference, and another at Mortonhall, said to have been plant- 
ed in 1700, measures 14 feet. At Moredun, Drum, and Inch, 
there are also many fine trees. 

Mines and Quarries. — 1. CocUwork at Gilmerton. — At Gilmer- 
ton there are about 20 seams of coal from 2^ to 10 feet thick. 
The working of the coal, which is of excellent quality, is supposed 
to have commenced at a very early period ; probably 300 years 
ago. It was in vigorous operation in 1627, and in Mr Whyte's 
time, fifty-four colliers were employed. This number was, how- 
ever, greatly augmented afterwards, about eighty families being 
constantly employed, the quantity of coals annually raised being 
from 20,000 to 24,000 tons, and the amount of wages paid being 
L.180 a fortnight to colliers alone. In addition to colliers, a num- 
ber of carters were employed, and employed themselves in driving 
these coals to Edinburgh, making the population of the village of 
Gilmerton to be upwards of 800 souls. The seam of coal lately work. 



LIBERTON. . 19 

ed is 4 feet 4 inches thick, with 8 inches of parrot coal above. Of 
late, however, these operations have been suspended, partly owing 
to the expiry of the lease of the late tenant, but chiefly owing to 
the quantity of coal brought to the Edinburgh market by means 
of the Dalkeith Railway, from mines which can be worked at less 
expense. The mines at Gilmerton may remain dormant for a time, 
till some of the neighbouring collieries are exhausted to the same 
depth, but there is at Gilmerton an immense supply of coal un* 
worked. 

Iron. — Blackband ironstone of the best quality, and 14 inches 
thick, has lately been discovered at Gilmerton, which may imme- 
diately cause a great increase of population. 

Lime-warh at Gilmerton. — The Gilmerton lime-work was per- 
haps the oldest in Scotland, and had also been in operation from 
time immemorial. It was at first worked by tirring, after- 
wards by mining, according to the plan at present in use. Its 
present waste, stretching from Moredun Mains along by Hyvot's 
Mill, to Muirhouse, presents abundant evidence of former opera- 
tions, there being a vast series of pillars with open areas, the rock 
being 9 feet thick, and resting on a declivity of 45.^ The stones 
from the mine or quarry were formerly carried to the bank-head 
by women with creels fastened on their backs, and when the works 
were in full operation, probably fifty women were thus employed. 
At length asses were with more propriety employed in this occu- 
pation ; a change suggested by a man of the name of Pidie, who 
had been at the siege of Gibraltar, and had seen asses employed 
there in carrying up sand to fortify the trenches. The east 
part of the quarry was afterwards worked by means of a steam- 
engine, but this was found unprofitable, and was consequently 
abandoned. The working was, however, renewed, and carriedonwith 
great vigour during the years 1826, 1826, and 1827, when the rock 
was laid dry by the draining and working of the North Green coal, 
which lies regularly above it At this time there were upwards of 
twenty quarrymen employed, and the quantity produced was about 
15,000 bolls of six imperial bushels per annum. Nearly the same 
quantity of small coals was consumed, and the rock was forced out 
by means of blasting with gunpowder; a very difficult operation. 

This limestone extends from the adjoining parish of Lasswade, 
nearly across the entire breadth of this parish. It begins near Loan- 
head on the west, and runs nearly in a north-eastern direction to 
Moredun, passing through Muirhouse, the property of Mr Trotter 



20 EDINBURGHSHIRE 

of Morionhall, entering a corner of the Moredun grounds, turning 
to the west by Hyvot's Mill, entering the grounds of Southfield, 
running through the village of Stenhouse, Moredun Mill, and 
Moredun Mains, where it again takes a turn almost due south, and 
enters the property of Sir David Baird, and continues nearly in 
the same direction till it enters the parish of Newton, near Ed- 
monstone. I understand that in all these places, except at Muir« 
house, it is of excellent quality ; but its working on Sir David Baird's 
property can only be resumed by employing a steam-engine to re- 
move the water, or in consequence of the working of the North 
Green coal. 

Lime-works at Burdiehouae. — The limestone at Burdiehouse, 
which is entirely distinct from that at Gilmerton, was discover- 
ed about eighty or ninety years ago. It was worked by tirring 
till about thirty or forty years ago, when a successful attempt 
was made to work it by means of a mine. A level was at Grst 
made to the burn near Burdiehouse Mains, for the purpose of 
carrying off the water, but afterwards a steam-engine was procured 
for this purpose. The rock is about 30 feet thick, lies at an angle 
of 45,° and is of excellent quality. It runs from Burdiehouse 
Mains to Straiton, and rock precisely the same kind is not found 
in any other part of the parish. Its organic remains have attract- 
ed much attention, and many valuable specimens of them are to 
be seen in the Museum of the Royal. Society, Edinburgh, collect- 
ed with great care by Sir John Kobison. 

The limestone was formerly carried to the surface by means of 
asses, as at Gilmerton, but, in 1822, two gins, with inclined planes, 
were erected for this purpose. From that period till 1827, this 
quarry was worked very extensively, producing in 1825 and 1826, 
' when the mania for building raged in Edinburgh, from 800 to 1000 
bolls of six bushels each per week during the summer, and employ- 
ing from forty to fifty men during the year. - In 1829, the rock 
being worked out to the level at which the steam-engine carried 
off the water, a new discovery of rock was made to the west, a 
quarry opened, and a level run to the old quarry, in consequence 
of which the work is now carried on. The stones are brought to 
the surface by means of a gin and inclined plane, and conveyed 
from thence, to the kilns by a railroad. There are at present em- 
ployed about twenty-five or thirty men during the year. The pro- 
duce is about 300 bolls a- week, or between 15,000 and 16,000 
bolb per annum. The consumpt of small coals is about 12^000 



LIBERTON. 21 

bolls a-year, formerly obtained from Gilmerton ; but since the coal- 
work there was discontinued, from Sir George Clerk's works at 
Loanhead. 

Sandstone Quarries, — There is an excellent and valuable quarry 
at Niddry, but the working of it is at present suspended, except 
for purposes connected with the estate. There is also abundance 
of excellent freestone at Craigmillar, but lately the quarry was 
shut up. It was worked very extensively whilst the building mania 
raged in Edinburgh ; and George's Square, the Regent's Bridge, 
and the greater proportion of the south districts of Edinburgh were 
built from it, as were also the barracks at Jock's Lodge. 

The quarry at Straiten is in operation. The stone is good, and 
the annual produce is stated to be L. 40. A beautiful yellow sand, 
of considerable value, is also excavated at Gilmerton. 

Produce, — The average gross raw produce of the parish, and 
its value, as nearly as these can be ascertained, are as follows : 

Wheat, 64] 6 bolls, at I-. 1, 7s. per bell, 

Barley, 2990 do. at L. 1, Is. do. - - ' 

Oats, 8063 do. at 17s. do. 

Hay, 132 340 stones at lOd. per stone, 

Beans, 152 bolls at L. 1, per boll. 

Potatoes, 23,124 do. at 98. 6d. do. 

Turnips. 5345 tons, at 15b. per ton, 

Grass parks, 370 acres, 

* Coals, 22,500 tons, at lOs. per ton, 

Lime, 15,500 bolls, ... 

Gardens and orchards, 

Annual thinnings of wood. 

Wool, - . - . 

Stones at Straiton quarry. 

Sand at Gilmerton, 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market-Toum^ Sfc, — There is no market-town in the parish. 

Edinburgh and Dalkeith are the two market places, the former 

distant rather more than two miles from the church, the latter 

nearly four. 

Villages. — There are about twenty hamlets in the parish, but 
the only village worth naming is Gilmerton, which contained late- 
ly 800 souls, and with the immediate neighbourhood no less than 
1100. 

Means of Communication, — There is here a penny post-office 
connected with the establishment in Edinburgh. We have many 
excellent roads. The London, Dumfries, Musselburgh, and Dal* 

* At present discontinued. 



L.8661 12 





3199 10 





6853 11 





5514 3 


4 


152 





10,981 18 





4008 15 





1680 





11,250 





1937 1 





1200 





- 250 





310 





40 





200 





L.56,181 10 


"4 



22 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

keith roads all intersect the parish, besides the Yailway to Dalkeith, 
which passes through a corner of it. The parish roads are, be- 
sides, most admirably kept. The length of the turnpike roads 
is fully twelve miles, and besides the Dumfries and London mails, 
coaches to Lasswade, Dalkeith, Jedburgh, Carlisle, and Peebles 
pass through the parish daily, and some of them more frequently. 
Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church is, per- 
haps, upon the whole, as good as any that could be found, although 
for some parts of the parish it is very inconvenient. Its distance 
from the northern and western extremities of the parish is only about 
a mile, whilst from the eastern extremity it is nearly five miles, and 
from the southern extremity three miles. The remedy for this, how- 
ever, is obviously to strike off these districts from the parish altoge- 
ther, as it is by far too extensive, and this has now been done with 
Gilmerton, and is in progress, as it seems to have been contemplated 
in regard to the eastern district as far back nearly as 200 years ago, 
as will appear from the following extract from the records of the 
Synod, 1650 : " The whole meeting" of a joint committee of the 
Synod and Presbytery of Dalkeith, " unanimously voiced that Brun- 
stane, and the lands and milns thereto belonging, should be recom* 
mended to be annexed to the kirk to be erected at Fisherrow." 
The parish church of Liberton was erected in 1815, and has not 
been altered since* It is a very handsome building, with a beau- 
tiful tower, and forms a fine object in the landscape. A vast im- 
provement might be made by forming a new approach to (t from 
the Dumfries road on the west, and ornamenting it with trees. It 
is melancholy to see so little taste displayed by our Scottish heri- 
tors, generally, in regard to the exterior and even interior of our 
places of worship. The churches in England are generally mo- 
dels in this respect The church here contains 1430 sittings, and 
is therefore much larger than any church should be. Seat-letting 
prevailed to some extent for 100 years, but was lately disconti- 
nued as an illegal practice, and now the sittings are entirely fi-ee. 
It appears from the records, that the control of the seats of the 
church anciently belonged to the kirk-session. The manse was 
built in 1821, and is a substantial and comfortable building. The 
glebe contains only about four acres of land in two detached por- 
tions, besides the garden and site of the manse. Its value is about 
L. 20 a-year. The stipend amounts to 20 chalders of grain, with 
L. 10 for communion elements, and L. 10, called Prebend's fees, 
from the tithes of Sir David Baird. llie value of the whole sti- 



LIBERTON. 23 

pend, on an average of seven years, ending in 18d5| was, L. ^26, 

14b. 7d. ; but it was only augmented to its present amount in 1 830. 

.New Churches. — There is a new church in the parish, erected 

in connexion with the General Assembly's Church Extension 
Scheme, for which the people are in a great measure indebted to 
the zeal of Mr Anderson of Moredun. Several of the other he- 
ritors have contributed handsomely towards its erection and 
support It is erected in Gilmerton, and was opened on the 
20th April 1837. It is seated for 300 people* It cost, includ- 
ing the expense of the gate and walls, L. 600, raised, partly by 
subscription, and partly by a grant from the Assembly's Commitr 
tee. It is quite free from debt. The ground on which it is erect- 
ed, and which extends to 1 rood, 20 poles, and 20 yards imperial 
measure^ is feued by the Liberton kirk-session from Sir David Baird 
for L. 2 a-year. A constitution for this church was granted by the 
Assembly in 1838^ and the first minister, the Rev. Walter Fair- 
lie from Whitehaven, was inducted on the 16th of August of the 
same year. The new parish contains a population of nearly 1100 
persons, the greatest distance of any of the people from church be- 
ing scarcely more than one, mile. It is bounded by Lasswade, Dal- 
keith, Newton, and Liberton. The minister of the new church ■ 
receives L. 80 a-year, raised by a subscription of L. 6 a-year each, 
from a number of gentlemen, chiefly connected with Liberton, and 
by annual collections here and at Gilmerton. But we are ear- 
nestly expecting a more secure and competent endowment from 
Government The seats are all free, and the collections, amount- 
ing to from L. 32 to L. 35 annually, after defraying the necessary 
expenses, ar^ given to the poor. At the first dispensation of the 
Lord's Supper in the new church the number of communicants 
was 130, but this number is slightly diminished, owing to the break- 
ing up of the colliery. A subscription has been commenced for 
the building of a manse to the minister of Gilmerton, which amounts 
already to L.180. Great and obvious good has already resulted 
from the erection of this church. 

Missionaries. — There was a catechist employed in this parish 
last year under the management of the kirk-session, and supported 
by a subscription, which amounted to about L.34. His place has 
not been supplied. A missionary is at present employed in the 

' eastern district of the parish, and in parts of the parishes of Inver- 
esk, Duddingston, and Portobello, where it would be most desirable 
to have a new church erected. The missionary is a licentiate of 



24 EDINBURGHSHtRE. 

the Established Church, and is supported very ioadequately by 
subscription. There is also a preaching station at Niddry, con- 
ducted by this missionary and the parish minister, attended by 
nearly 100 persons. 

Dissenters. — There is no dissenting place of worship in the pa- 
rish, and the great mass of the people profess to belong to the- 
Established Church. In 1836, 2873 persons professed to belong to 
the Established Church, and 689 to be Dissenters of all denomi- 
nations. But the number of Dissenters has diminished since then, 
and, although some of them are most excellent persons, a few who 
call themselves Dissenters are in fact heathens, as is also the case 
with some who say they belong to the Established Church ; nor 
will it be otherwise until the parish is considerably subdivided. 
There are no Papists in the parish. 

Attendance at the Parish Church. — Divine service at the pa- 
rish church is well attended, especially in summer and when the 
weather is good, and the number of worshippers is increasing. 
A good many of the people, however, have long been destitute of 
regular habits of church-going. Mr Whyte states, that at his 
time *^ a great many were lukewarm and indifferent, or rather 
seemed to have no religion." Still it is a melancholy fact that, in 
this respect, we are not worse than others, for if the population be 
considered and the number of seats (about 1800 between Liberton 
and Gilmerton), it will be found that the average of attendance on 
public worship here is above that of a good many of the parishes 
of Scotland. It is only meant, that it is still very far short of what 
it should be. The average number of communicants is about 600, 
of whom about 100 were admitted in 1835, and 80 in 1836. There 
are besides 130 at Gilmerton. 

Contributions for Religious Purposes. — The average amount of 
extraordinary collections in 1835 was L.70, 9s. 6d. Since then, 
however, it has been greater, nearly L. 100 a-year being raised for 
the support of Gilmerton church ; L. 17 for our Sabbath schools; 
upwards of L.20, for our new day schools; a small sum for a Bible 
Society; and, in 1838, L.34 for a catechist, and about L. 10 for 
the missionary at Easter Duddingston. 

Education. — There are ten schools of all kinds in the parish. 
Only one of these is a parochial school. The maximum salary is 
attached to this school, and the teacher has the legal accommo- 
dations. It is attended by nearly 80 children. The usual branches 
of instruction are well taught. Four of the other schools are en- 



LIBERTON. 25 

dowed to a small extent The teacher at Gilmerton has .a free 
house, school-house, and garden, with L. 15 a-year contributed by 
Sir David Baird, Miss Innes, and David Anderson, Esq. The 
school-house is not in good repair. The teacher at Niddry has a 
free house, garden, and school-house, with L. 10 a-year from the 
family at Niddry. The school-house was rebuilt in 1837 by 
means of a sum of money left under the charge of the parish 
minister, and it is also used as a preaching station. The school 
at Cameron, with the houses attached to it, belongs to the kirk- 
session. It was purchased in 1838 for L.200, although it cost 
only the year before more than twice that sum ; but, when bought, 
it was part of a bankrupt estate. The teacher there, besides a 
free house and garden, receives L.15 a-year from the Assembly's 
Committee ; but the district in which he labours is very poor, and 
the people careless about the education of their children. His 
fees are therefore very small. The school at Burdiehouse was 
commenced in 1837. It is attended by nearly 80 children in 
winter, and the teacher is endowed by Mrs Trotter of Mortonhall, 
who has also very generously established a school for girls, which 
is succeeding admirably. A free school was in former times sup- 
ported by the Craigmillar iamily at Nether Liberton, when the po- 
pulation of that village was greater. The other schools are at 
Niddry, Liberton Dams, Echobank, Cameron, and Gilmerton, 
and are chiefly for girls and smaller children. About 450 children 
only attend all the schools in the parish, and perhaps 80 more are 
at schools in the neighbouring parishes. The school fees are from 
Is. to Is. 6d. a-month. The teachers are nearly all members of 
the Established Church. 

llie people in general may be said to be alive to the advantages 
of education, although to this rule there are a great many excep- 
tions. Many efforts have been made lately by addresses from the 
pulpit, and otherwise, to stir them up to send their children to 
school, and with some success. A good many have, lately, been 
sent to school by the kirk-session and by benevolent individuals, 
but in three districts of the parish around our district schools I 
counted lately 70 children, between five and fourteen years of age, 
who are attending no school, and in the other districts the same 
evil prevails. 

Schooh required, — It would be a most important thing, were 
a proper female school established and endowed, as part of the 
regular parochial machinery of every parish, and were the number 
of schools always to bear a proportion to the population. One 



26 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

parish school can never instruct one-sixth of the children in a pa- 
rish like this. There should be a well endowed school for every 
500 of the population. For this purpose, all our district schools 
should be raised to the rank of parish schools and suitably endow- 
ed. The status and character of all teachers, even those at pre- 
sent called parochial, should as much as possible be raised, by a 
liberal provision for their maintenance (which at present is often 
not so great as that of a collier or mason), and the fees should be 
as much as possible lowered. A most marked improvement has 
already followed even the imperfect efforts made in this parish for 
the improvement of education. 

Zftfero^re.— -There have been for several years libraries in Li- 
berton and Gilmerton. The one in Gilmerton was chiefly esta* 
blished by the late Rev. Mr Grant and Dr Stevenson, and is now 
valuable, containing a great many excellent books. The Liberton 
library is also good, and is managed by a committee of the sub- 
scribers. A new library was lately established at Liberton Church 
in connexion with the Sabbath School, which meets in the church 
before public worship. It contains already 150 volumes, which are 
eagerly read by the children, who amount to about 100, under eight 
or nine teachers. A similar library has been established in con- 
nexion with the Sabbath school at Gilmerton. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The averaged number of persons 
receiving aid from the kirk-session was, in 1835, 129 ; in 1836, 120; 
in 1837, 110; so that the number is gradually diminishing. The 
sum given to each varies from L. 7, 16s. to L. 1, 6s. per annum. 
The sum expended on ordinary paupers was, in 1837, L.309, 9s. 
Id.; in 1836, L.348, Is.; in 1835, L.39], 18s. lOd. Besides 
thb, other sums were expended, amongst which from L. 3 to L. 5 
were given each year in the form of occasional relief to per- 
sons not upon the poor's roll; L. 7, 18s. Id. was applied to the 
education of seventeen poor children; and in 1836, L. 29, 4s.; 
in 1837, L. 36, 19s. 4d. raised by voluntary contribution, was 
devoted to the purchase of coals for the poor during the unusual 
severity of winter. The poor of this parish are partly supported 
by voluntary contributions, partly by assessments. The first as- 
sessment was made in 1779. Before that the average collections 
at the church doors was L. 42, 10s. 9^d. At present the average 
is greater, being L. 55, Os. 8d. The amount of assessment was in 
1835, L. 399, 3s. 4id. ; in 1836, L. 497, 5s. 9id. ; in 1837, 
L. 350, Os. lid. For the same years the collections were, 1835, 



LIBERTON. 27 

L. 63, 9s. Id.; 1886, L. 61, lis. ll^d. ; 1837, L. 50, Os. llfd. ; 
of which two last sums, if the extraordinary collections above- 
mentioned be added, the amount of collection will be, for 1836, 
L.90, 15, 1 1 Jd. ; and for 1837, L.87, Os. 3Jd. The mortcloth and 
other dues were, in 1835, L. 37, 6s. 6d. ; 1836, L. 35, 14s. 5d. ; 
1637, L.25, lis. To this may be added the collections at the 
new church of Gilmerton, amounting to from L. 32 to L. 35 a-year, 
part of which are given to the poor. There is also distributed the 
interest of L. 1000, left by Captain Home in the hands of the 
Magistrates of Edinburgh, for the benefit of decayed labourers in 
this parish, and the rents of other property belonging to the kirk- 
session^ 

The assessment has the effect of drying up the sources of cha- 
rity, and emboldening paupers to cast themselves and their chil- 
dren on the poor's funds. The old Scottish plan of voluntary con- 
tributions was certainly the best for supporting the poor. But it is 
only practicable in small parishes, with an efficient minister and 
staff of elders. Nothing can remove the evil of assessments now, 
(which would be ten times greater, but for the efforts of the kirk- 
session,) but the subdivision of parishes, the diffusion of sound in- 
struction and Christian principle amongst the people, and the re- 
moval of whisky-shops. Crime, drunkenness, and poverty, are al- 
ways found together, and expending money upon the poor, except 
for the purpose of making them better, will as soon cure the evil 
as pouring oil upon a flame will quench it. It would be well if the 
attention of the proprietors of Scotland were called to this mighty 
evil in our overgrown parishes, for unless something is done to 
break them up, and to apply a moral remedy, which is the only 
effectual one, and by far the cheapest, the clergy and kirk-sessions 
must, as in large towns, throw away the reins which at present 
they hold with difficulty. There is no part of our duty in large 
parishes so laborious and thankless as the management of the poor. 
Ale-houses. — There are 32 shops for the sale of spirits in 
this parish, which is just thirty too many, and the effect is as 
pernicious as possible. It is just so many persons scattered over 
the parish with their families and relations, whose living depends 
on the success with which they can prevail upon their neighbours 
to drink. One man is paid for teaching sobriety, but thirty-two 
have an interest in defeating his efforts, and human nature is on 
their side. At the same time some of these publicans are vefy re- 
spectable people, and the blame chiefly rests with those who let 



28 EDINBURGHSHIRB. 

and license so many houses of that description. No ale-houses 
are allowed to exist by the proprietors or tenants on the estates of 
Niddry, Mortonhall, Moredun, or Brunstane. 

Miscellaneous Observatiou^s, 
A vast improvement has taken place in the physical state of 

this parish since the last Statistical Account was written. Then 
the real rental was L. 10,000 a-year; lately it was nearly L. 28,000, 
or almost three times as much. It is in fact one of the richest 
parishes in Scotland. But other improvements have not kept 
pace. Little has been done towards improving the cottages in 
which the great mass of the people reside, for of the whole inha- 
bitants, amounting to nearly 4000, only '207 are above the poor 
and working classes, and even amongst this number are included 
teachers, farmers, and sometimes publicans and shop-keepers. 
Some of the houses of the others are very wretched, although 
something is likely to be done now for the purpose of improving 
them. The means of religious instruction also were till lately pre- 
cisely in the same state, notwithstanding the immense increase of 
wealth and population ; and, as might have been expected, vice 
has increased; and^ whereas formerly there was no assessment, now 
there is one of L. 400 a-year, which till lately was rapidly increas- 
ing. The assessment for the first half year after the induction of 
the present minister lyas L. 300 ; for last half year it was only 
L.150, and for the whole year L.350. We have no precise means 
of ascertaining, but the number of public>-houses has probably in- 
creased fourfold or perhaps tenfold since the last Account was writ- 
ten, thus still further increasing the evil, and filling the land with 
crime. Some important changes have, however, lately been made. 
The church, manse, and school- house have all been renewed since 
the last Account was written ; a new church has been erected in 
Gilmerton; new and improved schools set up at Cameron and 
Burdiehouse; a good many Sabbath schools opened; two new 
religious libraries established ; additional elders ordained ; a 
preaching station begun at Niddry ; and a missionary established 
in the eastern district of the parish. 

Written March 1 ,^^ 
Revised August ) ' 



PARISH OF PENICUIK. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN ANDTWEEDDALE, 

THE REV. W. SCOTT MONCRIEFF, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name.* — This parish seems, of old, to have been dedicated to 

St M ungo, whose memory still lingers about a copious spring, hard 
by the church ; and the same thing is attested by some old inscrip- 
tions upon its monuments. How, or when, the worthy saint became 
connected with the parish, does notappear. The name which it bears 
at present has long, however, distinguished it, and is probably as 
ancient as the other, as it betrays a Gaelic or rather British origin ; 
— ^probably the latter appellation belonged to the barony, and the 
former to the church. The present parish includes two other, which 
were annexed to it in the year 1635, viz. that of Mount Lothian to 
the east, and St Catherine's to the north-west. The vestiges, for 
they can scarcely be called ruins, of both the ancient churches, 
may still be traced, — at leastmight have been so, till a few yearssince, 
when the remains of the latter were submerged in the waters of 
the Edinburgh Water Company's reservoir. Mount Lothian, 
(Mons Laodiniae) frequently, but as appears from the Latin, er- 
roneously written Monk's Lothian, was a chapelry belonging to 
the Abbey of Holyrood, whose monks kept their flocks on its rich 
and extensive pasturage ; hence the corrupt name frequently given 
to it, of Monk's Lothian. A very curious account of the church of 

* In the fonncr Statistical Account, the name is said to signify in Gaelic, the 
Cuckoo's hill, ( Beann-na-cuaig. J It is more probably, however, derived froro the 
British Penycog or Penycoc, which has the same meaning. In Cornwall there is « 
village which bears a similar name ; there it is spelt Penkuke. Several places in the 
neighbourbood are named from the Cuckoo, for example, Cukeu. Gowkley ; and 
Cockpen, the name borne by a neighbouring parish, is plainly of similar origin. For- 
merly the parish and barony were co-extensive. In the ancient taxatio, the church is 
rated at twenty marks. From the twelfth century to the Reformation, it continued 
an independent parsonage, the advowson of which seems to have belonged to the 
Lord of the Manor. In Bagimont^s roll, as it was under James V., the rectory of 
Fenlcok was taxed at L. 8. In the Sooto- Saxon period, the manor was held by a fa- 
mily, who assumed their surname from it, and were patrons of the church. In 1296, 
Hugh de Penicok swore fealty to Edward I. This family retained the barony till 
the seventeenth century, wheu it passed by purchase into that of the Clerks, in whom 
it is entailed. 



30 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

St Katherine will be found in the Notes to the Lay of the Last 
Minstrel. From these annexations, the parish has become very 
spacious, though not compact, stretching to a length of nearly 
12 miles, with an average breadth of 4. The pictures(jue range 
of the Pentlands, and the river £sk, with its tributary streams, form 
the most striking local features. The hills run from north-east to 
south-west, at an elevation of nearly 1700 feet above the sea. The 
river rises amongst them, and, flowing in a south-easterly direction, 
leaves the parish a little below the village of Penicuik after a course 
of about seven miles. The romantic valley of Logan Water, which 
divides the Pentland range, celebrated for its pastoral beauty, and 
supposed connection with the Gentle Shepherd, forms also a strik- 
ing feature in the scenery of the parish. 

Climate^ — In its natural history the parish presents but few phe- 
nomena deserving particular attention. The most prevailing winds 
are the west and south. The east is not felt here so keenly as in 
the neighbourhood of Edinburgh ; but the west, from blowing across 
the extensive moors between this and Linton, has but little of the 
blandness for which in general it is celebrated. It is both cold 
and damp. The progress of drainage and planting is annually, how- 
ever, lessening this evil. Still at present, the climate, though much 
ameliorated by the astonishing progress of agricultural improve- 
ment of late, cannot be described as !good. The great extent of 
wet moorland, together with the height of the country, averaging 
about 800 feet above the sea, necessarily produces cold and mois- 
ture. The former cause cannot be remedied, but the latter might ; 
and from the happy effects of draining and planting at Whim, in 
the neighbourhood, good encouragement is held out to prosecute 
its removal. Drainage of moss would, however, appear to be at 
first accompanied by prejudicial effects to the health, as its decom- 
position is stated by Sir H. Davy to prove very unhealthy. 

Hydrography, — The springs are both numerous and remark- 
ably fine, — a circumstance which has proved of great importance 
to the parish, as it probably was the first inducement to establish 
those extensive paper manufactories for which the neighbourhood 
has long been celebrated, and which are at present carried on to 
a great extent Chalybeate, mineral, and petrifying springs are 
also to be met with. It was, at one time, in contemplation to sup- 
ply Edinbui^h with water from the Silver-burn, — one of the many 
beautiful streams which here descend from the Pentlands; but one 
in the neighbouring parish of Glencorse was ultimately preferred. 

4 



PENICUIK. 31 

There is only one natural loch of small extent ; but the artificial 
ponds on the Penicuik demesne are deserving of notice, not merely 
from their picturesque beauty, but from their having been the first 
scenes where the extraordinary naval genius of John Glerk of 
Eldin diplayed itself. To boating on these ponds in boyhood, 
that celebrated character used to ascribe his predeliction for nau- 
tical investigations, which ultimately led to the publication of his 
Naval Tactics. The Esk, though here but an inconsiderable 
stream, is yet both highly ornamental and useful, as it forms the 
great charm of the beautiful domains of Penicuik and Newhall, 
and is the parent of the many mills which have so contributed to 
enrich the parish. Its powers have of late been much lessened, 
however, as a mechanical force, from the progress of drainage in 
the upper jdistricts, which has tended to render its floods more de- 
structive, and its average stream much weaker. To remedy this 
increasing evil, the mill proprietors have in contemplation the for- 
mation of large reservoirs, to receive and store up the flood waters, 
with the double view of thus diminishing the force of its spates, 
and increasing its stream in drought. A similar plan has long 
been in agitation for the Water of Leith, a reservoir for which has 
been planned at Bavelaw, on the north-west of the parish. A 
considerable part of one already successfully formed on the Logan 
Water is also within this parish. A little way above this last 
mentioned sheet of water, the stream which supplies it forms the 
classical Linn of Habbie's How, which would repay the admirer 
of natural scenery for a somewhat long ramble amongst the hills, 
by its lonesome and romantic character. Innumerable pic-nic 
parties accordingly repair thither from Edinburgh during the sum- 
mer months. 

Geology and Mineralogy, — The rocks in this parish belong to 
the transition, secondary, and alluvial classes; sandstone, lime- 
stone, and schistus, being everywhere to be met with. Coal, is 
also abundant, but as yet it has never been wrought to any extent, 
or with a profitable return.* This has arisen from the frequent oc- 
currence of dikes. Limestone is quarried to a very considerable 
extent on the eastern limits of the parish, and has proved of the 
greatest benefit in reclaiming moorland. The rock formation on 
the plains, as indicated by its cropping up on the banks of the 
Esk| and its tributaries, is of sandstone and schistus, of various 

* A pit was re-opened in 1898 on the Penicuik property. The coal is excellent, 
and the prospects of a profitable return are good. 



32 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

kinds, running out into the alluvial formations of clay and gravel, 
with deep intervening seams of quicksand. The different strata 
have, at various times, presented fossil organic remains, parti- 
cularly those of shell-fish. In the Supplement to the Encyclo- 
paedia Britannica, an account is given of a fine fossil tree, which 
was found here in these formations. The Scots Magazine for 
1818 also contains a drawing of it. There are also specimens of an 
unknown fossil tree at Newhall. Iron is the only metallic ore 
that has been met with. It occurs in beds and veins of schistus, 
as also in round fragments. A few garnets, and specimens of 
heavy spar, may also occasionally be found ; but the parish con- 
tains little metallic wealth. The Pentlands are valuable only as 
excellent sheep walks. The solid rock of these hills is chiefly 
porphyry, with smaller masses of whinstone. Fragments of pri- 
mitive rock, as of chlorite rock, granite, syenite, &c occur 
among the hills. Gravel, however, predominates in most of the 
valleys and lower ridges of the range, presenting a fine soil for 
turnips. Still lower down, clay becomes the prevailing forma- 
tion, varied by tracts of deep moss, which, though superficially 
quite sterile, yet generally present at the depth of twelve feet a 
tine rich soil. In some places, this superincumbent mass of moss 
has been cut, and carried for fiiel, and then the subsoil has been 
successfully cultivated. Very extensive beds of sand and gravel 
occur about the village of Penicuik, covering formations of sand- 
stone and schistus. On the banks of the Esk these beds are from 
4 to 15 feet deep, but they are found at other places much to ex- 
ceed that depth. The deposits on either bank of the river are 
perfectly similar. The soils have of course an inherent intimacy 
with these subsoils, being light, where these are gravelly, and clay- 
ey, where these are tenacious and adhesive ; the latter .seem to 
predominate. 

Botany, — Great attention has been paid by the present proprie- 
tor of the estate of Penicuik, as by his predecessors, to planting 
the property, which has been executed on an extensive scale with 
combined judgment and taste. The plantations, which cover a 
considerable portion of the barony, serve at once to shelter the 
otherwise much exposed face of the country, and to heighten its 
natural beauties, to a degree that one would little expect in a dis- 
trict so high in its climate and barren iu its Soil. 

Scotch firs, spruces, larches are planted promiscuously with oak 
and other hard woods. ' Great attention is paid to thinning, and 



PENICUIK. 33 

constant extensions are going on. The whole planting is done on 
the Scotch or pitting system. Though shelter and picturesque 
effect form probably the chief inducements to extend these plant- 
ingSy yet the wood also yields a profitable return, — single trees 
having brought as high a price as L. 30. A saw-mill has lately 
been erected, and is in nearly constant use. There are upwards 
of 1000 acres under wood in the parish, of which 800 or so are on 
the barony of Penicuik. The present appearance and rental of 
this last-mentioned estate strikingly shows what great effect judi- 
cious perseverance in improving land will produce. It is not much 
more than five and thirty years since there were scarcely any en- 
closures on that property, save some few in the vicinity of Penicuik 
House, and now, nearly through its whole extent, it presents the as- 
pect of an enclosed and well sheltered country. Its natural and but 
recent wildness is every where relieved by stripes of planting, dikes, 
or hedge-rows. In that period, the rents have trebled, without be- 
ing at all oppressive. The waste has been converted into a fo- 
rest, and the wilderness into a fruitful field. 

II. — Civil History. 

There is but very little deserving of notice under this head. A 
short account of the principal events which had occurred within 
the memory of the inhabitants was published by one of their num- 
ber, some years ago ; but it contiiins nothing of general interest. 
" The simple annals of the poor," however amusing to the lover 
of nature, are unsuitable to this work. The agricultural im- 
provements of the district have been ably detailed in an essay, 
which obtained the Highland Society's silver medal for the year 
1829. It was written by Mr James Jackson of Plain tree Shade, 
by Penicuik, and has been published by him in a volume of great 
merit, along with five other prize essays. To Mr Jackson's in- 
telligence on all points of agricultural interest, the public are in- 
debted for nearly all the information on these matters in this account 
of the parish. The essays referred to may be confidently recom- 
mended to the perusal of the farmer, not merely for the informa- 
tion to be derived firom them, but also from the example which 
they furnish of what, even in disadvantageous circumstances, dili- 
gence and good sense may accomplish. 

The uniform quietof a country parish was, in the case of Penicuik, 
interrupted aboutthe year 1 810, by its extensive paper manufactories 
being turned by Government into depots for prisoners of war, and the 
peaceful cottages attached to them into barracks for the military ne- 

EDINBURGH. C 



34 EDINBUUGUSIilUE. 

cessarily required. The paper-mills of Valleyfield were on that 
occasion fitted up for the reception of 6000 prisoneYs, whilst those of 
Eskmills, then used as a cotton manufactory, accommodated 1500 
British soldiers. This occurrence could not fail to produce re- 
sults very unfavourable to the social and religious well-being of the 
parishioners. The peaceful artisan gave place to the soldier ; and 
the din of a camp, with its attendant irregularities, prevailed where 
formerly nothing had interrupted the orderly occupations and Sab- 
bath solemnities of a Scottish village. This circumstance gave, 
however, unusual life and activity to the place, and enriched some 
of its inhabitants ; but it may be doubted, if it proved in any way 
advantageous to their moral habits and religious feelings ; nor per- 
haps, have the unfavourable effects then produced on these latter, 
even now quite disappeared. . On the close of the war, however, 
in the year 1814, the mills happily returned to their former pro- 
prietors and purposes, — an event which was hailed by the inha- 
bitants with a general illumination, and other demonstrations of 
their heartfelt joy. The only memorial which now remains of the 
residence of so many warlike strangers, is a very chaste and appro- 
priate monument erected by the proprietor of Valleyfield mill, 
over the remains of upwards of 300 prisoners of war, who were in* 
terred in a beautiful spot amidst his grounds. The design was 
furnished by Hamilton, and bears, after recording the purpose for 
which it was erected, the following line from the elegant but little 
known Sanazarius suggested by Sir Walter Scott : *^ Grata 
quies patriae, sed, et omnis terra sepulchrum." Underneath is this 
simple addition, '^ Certain inhabitants of this parish, desiring to 
remember that all men are brethren, caused this monument to be 
erected." It is understood, however, to have been raised at the 
sole expense of A. Cowan, Esq. 

Eminent Men. — The parish cannot boast of many names cele- 
brated in the world either of letters or of arms. Individuals have 
not been awanting, however, of that plain, but practically most use* 
ful stamp, who accomplish in a quiet way for their neighbourhood 
most beneficial and happy results, and whose memorial may, there- 
fore, be preserved in parochial history. Of this description was 
Sir James Clerk of Penicuik, whose combined judgment and taste 
accomplished effects which, for the times in which he lived, may 
be considered astonishing. The house and grounds of Penicuik 
are striking monuments of his enterprize and taste, and of the eco- 
nomical jujdgment with which he managed his resources. In his 



PENICUIK. 35 

days, the rental of the estate must have been but trifling, and yet 
the princely mansion which he erected was not left as a burden on 
his heirs* The parish church and Ramsay's Monument also re« 
main to attest the taste and liberality which distinguished him. 
His brother, John Clerk of Eldin, has been more celebrated, 
and is better known as the author of Na?al Tactics. As such his 
character belongs to his country ; nor is this the place to discuss 
the merits of a work which has occasioned no little controversy. It 
is but justice to the present proprietor of Penicuik to state, that he 
is distinguished by the same judgment and enlightened liberal po- 
licy as a landlord, which characterized his predecessors, so that the 
improvements which were commenced by Sir James Clerk have 
been efficiently sustained and prosecuted up to the present time 
by his successor. The name of Mr Brotherston also deserves to 
be recorded, as having been the first to introduce cotton-sp\nning 
into Scotland, which he accomplished at Eskmills in this parish, 
about sixty years since. 

Nor should the name of James Niven be altogether passed over 
in an account of his native parish. He distinguished himself as a 
traveller and a botanist, and as such was honoured with||^the pa- 
tronage of several scientific societies and individuals, among whom 
was the accomplished and unfortunate Josephine, who found, in 
the culture of flowers at Malmaison, probably as much real happi- 
ness as she had ever experienced as Empress of France, at the 
Thuilleries. A more detailed account of him may be found in 
Loudon's Gardener's Magazine for March 1827. 

ThB Chief Landholders. — The land is possessed by 13 he- 
ritors paying^ parish rates. Of these Sir George Clerk is by far 
the most considerable, his valuation amounting to one-half of the 
whole. There are only three other properties of considerable 
extent besides that of Penicuik, viz. Newhall, Logan House, and 
Bavelaw. The nine remaining are inconsiderable. 

Parochial Beffisters. — -The records of the kirk-session have been 
preserved entire from the year 1654 to the present time. The pe- 
rusal of these volumes has not been rewarded by any discovery de- 
serving of insertion in this place. Yet the following notice of the 
battle of Pentland, which was fought in this neighbourhood, may 
interest some readers. It occurs under the date of December 9» 
1666, The battle took place on the 28th November. << Dis- 
bursed to John Brown, belman, for making Westlandmen's graves, 
ds. 4d." This may perhaps be taken as a confirmation of a charge^ 



36 EDINBURGHSIIIUE, 

brought by Crookshank, in his History of the State and Suffer- 
ings of the Church of Scotland, against the people of the neigh- 
bourhood, ** that they were very cruel to the fleeing army of the 
Covenanters, niany of whom they killed, and others they took pri- 
soners." The battle was not fought in the parish, but a little ta 
the eastward, so that those whom John Brown interred were most 
likely some of the unfortunate individuals alluded to by Crook- 
shank, as having been killed by the people of Penicuik in their 
flight westwards. 

Antiquities.* — Newhall House seems, in former times, to have 
been the seat of a religious establishment of some note. Lying on 
the conflnes of a very extensive and desolate waste, and on the line of 
the principal route from Edinburgh to the south-west, from which at 
this point there was a pass over the Pentlands to the north, it seems 
to have been originally intended to serve as a hospice for the shel- 
ter and refreshment of travellers, over what must have been at the 
time a dreary tract of country. A farm house in its immediate 
neighbourhood bears the name of the Spittal ; and though at pre- 
sent good roads and inns have rendered such institutions unneces- 
sary, the poor wayfarer is still held entitled to receive gratuitous- 
ly the accommodation of a night's lodging at the Spittal of New- 
ball. On the summit of the pass before alluded to, at the eleva- 
tion of 1500 feet above the sea, there are the remains of a Ro- 
man Catholic station. The cross which hallowed it has disap- 
peared, but the stone which formed its pedestal still remains, with 
two deep indentations, which have evidently been worn by the 
knees of the many passing worshippers. Some workmen rudely 
overthrew this stone last year, and were rewarded by obtaining 
possession of a few old copper coins. Brunstane Castle, on the 
£sk, upwards of two miles above Penicuik, is a ruin of conside- 
rable extent, and has evidently been a place of importance. It 
would seem to have been built in the year 1580. Logan House is 
another remnant of feudal times, which possesses rather an inte- 
resting character from its romantic situation, enclosed as it is on 
all sides by the Pentlands, and encircled by the rather classic 
stream of the same name. It became a favourite hunting-tower 
of the Scottish kings. It was on the adjacent grounds that the 
celebrated match took place between the hounds of King Robert 
Bruce, and Sir Willian St Clair of Roslyn, as more particularly 

* A very particular account of all that can pretend to the interest of antiquity, will 
be found in the Appendix to the last Statistical Account. 

4 



PKNICUIK. 37 

detailed in the Notes to the Lay of the Last Minstrel, and which 
led to the erection by the latter of the Chapel of St Catherine's, 
about a mile below the hunting-tower. The picturesque ruins of 
this ancient monumentof Sir William St Clair's gratitude to his pro- 
pitious saint, was submerged, as has been stated, by the Edinburgh 
Water Company, on the formation of their great reservoir. The re- 
mains of its walls may still be perceived rising from the waters, when 
they are unusually low, as was the case last year (1835.) Some old 
coins were found under the altar piece, on its being turned up some 
years since. The scenery on this romantic stream has long dis- 
puted with that on the Esk at Newhall, the honour of being the 
local habitation of the dramatis persoruB of the Gentle Shepherd. 
They both have had and still have their advocates, and much 
has been written and still more said on the subject. But, as 
the amount of authorship in favour of the Esk rather preponde« 
rates, that stream, otherwise so classic, enjoys the envied honours. 
It is unnecessary to describe the mansion-houses of the gentry. 
They remain as they were when the last account was written ; nor 
is any of them deserving of notice except Penicuik House, which 
is an elegant modern mansion, in the Grecian style, celebrated for 
its Ossian's Hall, a large room, the ceilings of which are painted 
by Runciman, the designs being taken from Ossian's Poems. Run- 
ciman was, when young, employed with others to paint Penicuik 
House. Whilst so engaged he attracted the favourable notice of 
Sir James Clerk, then a great patron of Scottish genius. By him 
he was sent to Rome, where he studied for some time. His death 
is said to have been occasioned by the painful exertions he was 
obliged to mak^ in painting the roof of the hall, which he had to 
perform lying on his back. Pieces so executed cannot, of course, 
be expected to display the highest perfection of the art ; but they 
present very fair specimens of Runciman's style, and perhaps both 
the ground and the subjects were the most favourable for his bold, 
but exaggerated manner. The most marked improvements have 
taken place within the last forty years on the farm-houses and 
steadings. All those on. the Penicuik barony have been rebuilt 
in a substantial way, with slated roofs and other improvements, at 
once for use and comfort. The same may be observed as to the 
Newhall property. 

Nor have the manufacturing class been behind the agricultural, 
in improving their mills and dwelling-houses. A corresponding 
degree of improvement is discernible in the shops aiid dwelling- 



38 EDINBUUGHSHIRE. 

liouses in the villiage* The former being lighted with gas, and 
neatly fitted up, are equal to those of most country towns, and give 
to the place a greater air of prosperous comfort, than is generally to 
be met with in a Scotch village. A number of new dwelling-houses 
have been erected during the course of the last six years, and all in 
a style of superior convenience and elegance. It is believed that, 
did the proprietor encourage feuing, many more would be added« 
In the year 1831, an enterprizing individual converted the Govern- 
ment cavalry barracks, which stood to the north of Penicuik, and 
which had remained unoccupied since the end of the war, into a 
foundery, which employs a number of hands, and is in constant ope- 
ration. 

III. — Population. 
It has not been in my power to ascertain from any authentic do- 
cuments the ancient amount of the population. There occurs, at 
times, in the minutes of session a note of the number of communi- 
cants, as, for example, in June 1721, there were 876, in June 
1779, there were only 345. The diminution is not, however, to 
be ascribed to a falling off in the population, but to the erection 
of a Dissenting place of worship at Howgate, in the year 1750. 
Under the date of 1779, I find a note intimating that it appears 
from a roll made up by the minister at that time, there were then 
in the parish 1349 individuals young and old. 



Population in 1801, 


• 


1705 


1811, 


• 


1827 


1821, 


• 


1058 


1831, 


• 


2255 



From these it appears that the population has been progressive- 
ly on the increase. This must be ascribed chiefly to the paper 
manu&ctories ; for though there has been during the last fifty years^ 
a great improvement in the agriculture of the parish in reclaiming 
Waste lands, &c still, from the converting of small farms into large 
ones, which has taken place to a considerable extent, the increase 
of the agricultural population has been checked. Inhabitants of 
the parish now living can easily remember the days when upwards 
of twenty heads of families would regularly cross the Pentlands to 
worship at Penicuik ; now scarce a single individual comes from 
that quarter of the parish, all the families there being reduced to 
two or three. Improvements in machinery are now also beginning 
to operate in the same way on the manufacturing population, as 
a much larger amount of produce can now be raised by fewer hands. 
It would be incorrect, therefore, to estimate the prosperity of the 



PENICUIK. 3f) 

parish by the increase of the population. In the month of No- 
vember 1835, the writer took up a new census, when he found no 
more than 2286 souls, — which shews that the population has not 
been much on the increase since 1831. Of this number, 1250 
are resident in Penicuik or its immediate neighbourhood. The 
following table exhibits the yearly average of births, deaths, and 
marriages for the seven years preceding Whitsunday 1831. 

Births registered. Marriages registered. Deaths registered. 



1825, 


39 


• 


21 


„ 


41 


1826, 


86 


» 


14 


. 


43 


1827, - 


41 


. 


12 


. 


66 


1828, 


d5 


. 


17 


. 


61 


1829, 


32 


. 


16 


• 


47 


1890, 


32 


• 


20 


. 


49 


I8S1, 


18 


- 


12 


- 


68 


Total, 


233 


• 


112 




875 


Average 


33 




16 




53 



The register of deaths may be presumed to be correct, be- 
cause no interment could take place without registration. The 
list of marriages may also be considered as pretty accurate, 
but no reliance can be placed on that' of births, — which may 
be taken to exhibit only one*half of the actual number of births. 
The Dissenters, who amount to one-third of the whole popu- 
lation, rarely, if ever, register the births of their children, and 
many of the Established Church neglect it, notwithstanding all 
that can be said to induce them to do so. Seventy births per an- 
num, at an average, I should consider as a fair approximation, in- 
stead of 33, as the table would make it. There are 417 persons 
underseven, and 97 above theage of seventy. Instances of individuals 
reaching to the term of ninety are pretty frequent. I have seen a 
reel danced in the neighbourhood of Penicuik by four persons, 
whose united ages came to 320 years. There are at present 55 
males above fifty years, who are unmarried, or are widowers, and 
64 females above forty-five, who are unmarried. The total num- 
ber of families was 522 in 1835, the average number in each fa- 
mily, being 4|. In the village of Penicuik it is, however, under 4) 
but in the landward part of the parish it is upwards of 5. Number 
of inhabited houses, 500. 

The people are, in general, strong and healthy, but not so in 
any remarkable degree. Insanity has prevailed more than might 
have been expected. In the year 1830, two individuals committed 
siiicide under its influence, one of whom accomplished the death 



40 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

of her attendant relative, and the other nearly succeeded in a si- 
milar attempt. There were then 5 others in confinement for lu- 
nacy, and nearly the same number fatuous. There are only two 
deaf mutes, and one blind at present. The ifumber of deaths 
from suicide, murder, or other violent causes within the last ten 
years in the parish and vicinity seems deserving of record, as re- 
markably great, amounting to no fewer than 20. Of these, 8 per^ 
sons committed suicide; 2 were murdered ; 2 drowned ; 2 lost in 
snow ; I killed by lightning ; 1 killed violently without intent to 
murder; 2 by machinery; and 2 by intemperance. 

Number of illegitimate births in the parish during the last three 
years, 16. 

Sir George Clerk, and H. Brown, Esq. of Newhall, are at this 
period the only resident proprietors of considerable fortune. There 
are, however, altogether nine landed proprietors whose income ex- 
ceed L. 50. Before the passing of the Reform Bill, the parish 
yielded only five qualifications; there are now three old freeholders 
and 77 new voters enrolled, as qualified to vote. 

Amusements. — The favourite game in this part of the country is 
curling, to which the parishioners of Penicuik have long been de- 
voted. In their contests with the neighbouring parishes, they have 
hitherto been very successful. There is a numerous Curling Club, 
whose members annually play for a silver medal given by their pa- 
tron. Sir G. Clerk.* 

Character^ Sfc. of the People, — The habits of the people are in 
general cleanly, but there is not in this respect, nor as regards their 
dress and style of living, any thing remarkable. 

By the following returns, which may be relied on as accurate, it 
is to be feared that intemperance prevails to a greater extent than 
might have been expected : 

Stock of spirits ID band within the parish at 5th January 1838, . 1461 gallons. 
Brought in since and 22d March, • . • 737 

Total at 22d March 1838, . 2198 

Stock in hand 22d March 1838, . . 1310 

Consumption during the quarter, . 888 gallons. 

Supposing the average price per gallon to be 8s. 888 gallons 
comes to L..356, 4s., which, multiplied by 4, gives L. 1420, 16s. 
To this sum, large as it is, must be added one-fifth more for four 

* This club has presented their excellent patron with a finely mounted bunting 
born, the crest of his family ; and their indefatigable secretary, Mr Jackson, with 
an elegant ink-stand, in the form of a curling stone, of the value of L.12. 



PENICUIK. 41 

Spirit-shops not included in this return, and the whole sum spent 
annually on ardent spirits within the parish will be about L. 1700, 
although it is to be hoped that this sum is not all expended by 
parishioners. A Total Abstinence Society exists, and numbers 
100 members. 

As the manufacturing population are in the receipt, of -re- . 
gular and good wages, their houses present on the whole a 
greater appearance of comfort than is generally to be met with 
in the cottages of our peasantry. The character of these lat- 
ter is decidedly moral and intellectual, and their standard of ci- 
vilization high. They read much, and take a pride in the ac- 
quisition of knowledge. These laudable qualifications are not, as 
may be expected, unaccompanied, in every circumstance, by those 
unhappy effects, which generally flow from a ** little learning." Po- 
litical reading and discussion preponderates, accompanied with no 
little degree of disaffection to the institutions of the country, par- 
ticularly the rights and privileges of the Established Church. A 
great number of the paper manufacturers are Dissenters, and, al- 
most without an exception. Voluntary Churchmen. The tenantry 
are an exceedingly shrewd and industrious class ; some of them are 
also Dissenters, but they are more moderate in their political sen- 
timents than the other class. The weavers are not a numerous body, 
amounting in all to eight, and they are much depressed by low 
profits. But, on the whole, a great change for the better has taken 
place within the last thirty years, in the social condition of the 
people, — though I cannot affirm that this improvement arises 
from an increased diffusion of godliness. While it may with 
confidence be affirmed that infidelity and open irreligion have 
greatly declined, it must be allowed that that high-minded de- 
votion which eminently distinguished the people in former times 
is now rarely to be met with. They who can recall those primi- 
tive days before the effects of war or manufactures were known to 
this rural district, lament the decay of religious feeling, and the dis- 
use of those services at the family altar from which spring so many 
social blessings and civil virtues. I fondly believe, however, that 
domestic religion is now again reviving. Poaching is a crime which 
has been, of late, much on the increase, and has led to scenes 
happily not often exhibited on this side of the Border. The land- 
ed proprietors endeavour to protect their game, by employing 
keepers, while their tenantry are strictly prohibited from shooting ; 
an unhappy arrangement, and one that signally defeats its own 
end. The tenantry have no interest in detecting the poacher, and 



42 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

the game-keepers are intimidated, and are consequently of little 
service. Some time since^ one of these keepers was fired at and se- 
verely wounded by four poachers at eleven o'clock in the forenoon. 
Smuggling has been completely abandoned. As there are con- 
stantly two revenue officers at Penicuik, there would be little pros- 
pect of practising it with success. Pawnbroking, properly so cal- 
led, does not exist, though there are many melancholy instances 
of pledging goods for spirits. 

IV.— Industry. 
I have found it impossible to arrive at any thing like a definite 

estimate of the amount of cultivated and uncultivated land in the 
parish. The difficulty arises from the width and unenclosed 
character of the parish. The subjoined statement may be regard- 
ed as conjectural. The extent of the parish is estimated to be 
20,000 acres. Nearly 7000 are in the estate of Penicuik, of these 
I should say one-half are in tillage, of the remaining 3500, I 
should think 1500 might be reclaimed with profit. The estate of 
Logan House numbers 4000 acres, or thereby ; these, with the ex- 
ception of 50 acres or thereby, are all in pasture. This is rather 
more than one-half of the whole parish. Of the other half, I 
should think that as much as can be profitably reclaimed has been 
so already ; not more than a third of this, however, is in tillage. 

Agriculture. — lliere is no undivided common, nor any extent of 
underwood. The woods, which cover upwards of 1000 acres 
Scotch, consist of forest trees, and those on the Penicuik proper- 
ty are kept in the very best order, under the care of a judicious 
forester. There is a wide extent of unreclaimed moorland to the 
south-west of the village of Penicuik, which is, however, being 
gradually, though slowly, brought under the plough. It may be 
expected*, however, that this process will now proceed with greater 
rapidity and success, as two excellent] turnpike roads have lately been 
carried through the midst of it. The most astonishing efibrts have 
been made by Mr Carstairs of Springfield on 500 acres of per- 
haps the bleakest moorland in Scotland. This most indefatiga- 
ble and meritorious individual purchased some years since, this 
then most uninviting property, and has continued since then his 
e£forts to reclaim it, with a perseverance which no difficulties or 
discouragements have been able to damp. He has intersected the 
moss, which is nearly a dead level, with railways and a canal, on 
which, by carriages and boats, he transports the peat-moss from tlie 
interior to spots where ne is able to dispose of it, by selling it for 



PENICUIK. 43 

fuel, or burning it for manure. Already, the waste presents a much 
more cheerful aspect, and a sort of oasis is formed amidst its 
weary and desolate expanse. It is pleasant, moreover, to know 
that the enterprising proprietor is no loser by* his improvements ; 
at least, he is quite satisfied with the returns from his moorland. 
It may also be stated that his ingenuity and enterprise are not 
confined to agricultural pursuits ; for, having in such a climate 
rather a superfluity of water, he makes the surplus from ' his 
canal serviceable in turning a mill for the manufactory of combs. 
There are very considerable facilities for the reclaiming of waste 
land throughout the whole parish, from the abundance of lime at 
its eastern and western extremities ; while coal is not distant The 
tenants on the Penicuik property have availed themselves of the 
judicious liberality of their landlord in allowing them to drive lime, 
on the very lowest terms. They are, consequently, diminishing 
yearly the extent of waste land. The climate appears to be sensibly 
ameliorated by their exertions. It is to be regretted that the faci- 
lities enjoyed in many places for irrigation, particularly with moss 
water, do not seem to be appreciated. 

^ The duration of leases is, with scarce any exception, nineteen 
years. The former proprietor of Penicuik gave one for a term 
of thirty-eight years, but the result is understood to have been un* 
fevourable both to landlord and tenant If, at the end of his 
lease, the farmer has been improving, it is renewed to him, at: a 
rent determined by the award of a competent and impartial judge. 
Thus, few changes take place amongst the tenantry on the Peni* 
cuik property especially, who are to a man enterprizing and im- 
proving farmers, and warmly attached to the landlord under 
whose judicious management they thrive.* Enclosures are ge- 
nerally formed of dry stone dikes, though hedges and ditches 
prevail in the better cultivated districts ; a mixture of beech or 
thorn is preferred to any other. On the Penicuik property 
drainage has been carried on extensively, and, of course, with, 
the happiest results. The proprietor opens the drains, and the 
tenant fills them* Furrow draining is being introduced but slowly, 
while that by tiles, which has proved so singularly successful in 
the west of Scotland, particularly in Ayrshire, has not yet been 
attempted. 

* This state of matters has suffered a little modification from the unfavourable har* 
vests of last three years, 1836-37-68. One or two changes have taken place within 
this period ; but, had it not been for goo<l management on the part of both landlords 
and tenants, these changes must have been much more numerous. 



44 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Bent of Land. — The rent of arable land varies from 5$. to L« 5 
per Scotch acre. Milch cows are pastured from Whitsunday to 
Martinmas for L. 5 ; two years do. for L. 2 ; sheep from 5s« 
to 12s. per annum. The breeds of cattle and sheep have 
been of late much improved by being crossed. The Ayr- 
shire enjoys a preference here, being found much better ad- 
apted to the climate than the short-horned or Teeswater breed, 
which proved on trial by far too delicate for the situation. For- 
merly, the Galloway breed was preferred to any ; but the great im- 
provements which have, of late, been made on pasturage have ad- 
mitted of the introduction of superior breeds. There is still much 
room for improvement in this department of farming, which, on 
many accounts, is the most important in this district, the rents 
being chiefly paid from the dairy produce. The horses reared 
and used are mostly of the Clydesdale breed. 

Value of Raw Produce, — I have been unable to ascertain with ac- 
curacy, the gross amount of raw produce raised yearly ; but an idea 
of its value may be formed, from the gross rental of land, includ- 
ing farms, parks, and gardens, kept by the proprietors. This 
amounts to L. 6827 per annum. If, to this amount, two rents be 
added, we obtain the sum of L. 20,481, which will serve with suffi- 
cient accuracy to represent the yearly value of the agricultural 
produce. The rental of houses and mills is upwards of L. 1000. 
'Manufactures. — Paper-making, with the trifling exception of 
weaving, is the only manufacture prosecuted in the parish ; but it 
is carried on to a considerable extent. The quantity of rags year- 
ly converted into paper averages above 1000 tons, and the whole 
value of the oianufacture may amount to L. 80,000 per annum. 
There are five paper machines* constantly employed, for at least 
twelve hours per diem, and occasionally through the whole twenty- 
four hours. These on an average cast off paper in a continuous 
web of 4^ feet wide, at the rate of 10 yards per minute, or a mile 
in the three hours. Each machine therefore throws off*, on an ave- 
rage,. 4 miles length of paper per diem, and the five machines ac- 
cordingly may produce daily a quantity of paper 20 miles long by 
\.\ yard wide ; or a whole surface of 62,800 yards. Upwards of 
L. 24,000 per annum is derived by Government from this beautiful 
manufacture, in the shape of duty, which amounts to about t30 per 
cent This is supposed to equal the whole amount paid by Ire- 
land to the revenue on this article ; so that this parish is as produc- 

* Another machine is being now put up at Eskmills, Feptember 1839. 



PENICUIK. 45 

live in paper duty as the whole sister kingdom. The above- 
mentioned machines, which require the attendance of only one man 
and two lads, accomplish as much nearly as 80 men and lads could 
perform formerly by the vat ; yet the continually increasing demand, 
and the consequent extension of the works, has kept up if not mul- 
tipUed the number engaged in this manufacture. There are at 
present about 400 men, women, and children, continually employ* 
ed from ten to twelve hours per diem, six days in the week ; 
the men receiving from 2s. to ds. per diem, the women from 9d. 
to Is. dd., and the children from 6d. to lOd. As the work is not, 
except perhaps in its first stage of rag-cutting, unhealthy, the mills 
ventillated and heated, the workers, well paid and comfortably 
lodged, no prejudicial e£fects result from the manufacture, and 
the morals are in general very exemplary.* 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

The village of Penicuik has no regular market, but its nume- 
rous shops furnish at all times every necessary and luxury of do- 
mestic life. It has annually two fairs, held on the third Friday 
of March, and first Friday of October, chiefly for hiring servants. 
The police consists of a number of special constables, who act under 
the bailie of the barony ; their services are seldom required. The 
bailie holds a court monthly. Besides Penicuik, which contains a 
population of 687 souls, there are three other hamlets in the pa- 
rish, Kirkhill, with 394 souls ; Howgate with about 120 ; and Nine- 
mile- Burn with upwards of 20 families. 

Means of Communication » — Three great turnpike roads traverse 
the parish from north to south, viz. the old Dumfries road by How- 
gate ; the new one by Penicuik, and a lately much improved line 
by Nine-mile Burn. There is also another turnpike road recent- 
ly opened, running diagonally to these, and connecting Penicuik 
with Linton, while a parallel line is being carried through be- 
tween Penicuik and Nine- Mile Burn. The parish is, therefore, 
in all directions intersected by good roads. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is conveniently situated 
irt regard to the great bulk of the population, upwards of 1200 souls 
residing in its immediate vicinity ; but it is widely removed from 
the eastern and western extremities of the parish, from which it is 
upwards of four and six miles distant. It is a chaste structure of 

* Since these details, which refer to 1836, were received, the duty on paper has 
been reduced to one-half, and a great extension has followed in the production of that 
article. Steam power has been required to aid that of water, often incapable of ac- 
complishing the work in demand. 



46 EDiNBUUGUSHiaE. 

Grecian architecture, and is in good repair ; it bears the date 177 !• 
As, however, it cannot accommodate more than '^dOO, not one^ 
fourth of the population, it is greatly too small. Plansy'^are, how* 
ever being made out, with the view of adding 300 sittings ; and 
it is to be hoped, that another year will not pass without seeing 
them completed.* At present there are upwards of 100 free sittings* 
The manse, which was built about forty years since, is large and 
commodious, but is a very insufficient building. The contractor, 
who had undertaken its erection on too low an estimate, iailed be- 
fore he had completed it, and the work was carried on by his cre-> 
ditors, who run it up in the slightest manner. The glebe contains 
from 6 to 7 acres of good ground, which let with the fkrm offices 
for L. 26 per annum on lease. The stipend amounts to L. 78, 
all in money, and the teinds are exhausted. It comes, of course, 
under the benefit of the Act for Augmenting Poor Livings. 

There is a meeting house of the Secession denomination at How- 
gate, built in the year 1750, which may accommodate about 400* 
The stipend is raised wholly by seat rent. Of the population, 
1434 reckon them^lves adherents of the Established Church ; 
852 are Dissenters, chiefly of the Secession body. There are not 
10 Roman Catholics in the parish. Divine service is well attend- 
ed in the church. At the last summer communion, there were 
540 communicants ; but there are upwards of that number on the 
roll. The roll of heads of families entitled to exercise the veto con-* 
tains 190 names. The church is lighted by gas. The collections 
for the poor average about L. 30 ; an extraordinary contribution may 
amount to from L.6 to L.8, although L. 18 has been obtained* 
There is an association in connection with the Established Church 
for religious purposes both at home and abroad. Its receipts by 
subscriptions and otherwise have, for the firstsix months, amounted 
to upwards of L. 20. This sum has been mainly raised by very 
small individual contributions. 

Education, — There are eight daily, and four Sabbath schools* 
Of these, two are infant schools,— -one maintained by the Misses 
Cowan, and the other much aided by the grant of a house, &c* 
by the proprietor of Eskmills. The number of pupils constantly 

* Tliete plans were fully carried out in the year 1837, at an expense of nearly 
L 600 Sterling, including a heating apparatus. Of this sum, about L.400 was raised 
by subscription, the remainder was borrowed, and the debt so contracted is being H« 
quidated by u very small pew rent on the new sittings. Iheseare all eagerly secur- 
ed and fully occupied ; and no experiment of the kind could have been more success- 
ful or gratifying to the kirk.se&sion, by whom it was carried through. 



PBNICUIK. 47 

under instruction varies ; but on an average it may be stated as high 
as 340 or thereabouts, or about one-seventh of the whole popula- 
tion. The parochial school alone can be said to be endowed, though 
two or three others are assisted by the heritors, &c. The parish 
teacher draws the maximum of salary, but does not, from the infir- 
mities of age, act as schoolmaster. The office is filled by an assist- 
ant, who is wholly dependent on fees. Little beyond the common 
branches of reading, writing, and arithmetic, is in demand or ac- 
tually communicated. The usual fees for these branches may 
amount to L.45 or L.50 per annum. His other emoluments may 
amount to L.6 per annum. I am not aware of any persons betwixt 
five and fifteen years of age who are not capable of reading, and of 
very few who cannot write, at least at the last mentioned age. In 
general, the people have been, and are quite alive to the benefits of 
education, as the number of schools testifies ; and an additional one 
will be opened in a month or two, making in all 9 schools, or one 
to every *255 inhabitants ; nor is any of these so far removed from 
parishioners, as to prevent their sending their children. 

Literature, — There is one Subscription Library, containing up- 
wards of 1200 volumes, to which 50 subscribers belong ; another, 
in connexion with the Secession meeting-bouse at Howgate, is set 
up, and another is contemplated in connexion with the church. 

Friendly Societies. — There were lately four Friendly Societies 
in the parish, but the oldest of them has been given up. The 
next in order is not in a flourishing way ; but the latest, which was 
established nearly forty years since, has now a capital of upwards 
of L. 1200. It may be questioned, however, if any of them has 
produced beneficial effects. Their annual parades are sometimes 
attended with not a little riot and intemperance. 

Savings Bank. — A Savings Bank was established some years 
ago. in 18d5, the contributors amounted to 60, and the stock 
to little short of L. 900. From L. 10 to L. 20 may be deposited 
monthly, — sometimes more, but generally less than this is drawn 
out It has increased in its transactions, for in the year 1821 the 
deposits were only L. 250. The manufacturing class deposit 
the greatest amount, and the effects on their habits are very be- 
neficial. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are at present.about 40 pau- 
pers on the roll, who receive from 5s. to 8s. per month. There 
were lately no fewer than four lunatic paupers, but one only now 
remains. The funds for the support of the paupers are raised 



48 KDINBUIK.HSHIRE. 

from an assessment on the real rent, imposed twice a-year, the 
average yearly amount of which for the year 1838 was L. 160 ; 
from mortcloth* dues, which, from being resisted by the Dissenters, 
chiefly yield little ; and from collections, which, from the great 
number of Seceders who contribute nothing, do not bring more 
than L.dO per annum. Total amount of contributions for the poor 
upwards of L.200 a-year. The kirk-session made a strenuous at- 
tempt in the year 1831 to act on Dr Chalmers's views, as to doing 
away the compulsory assessment, and supporting the ordinary poor 
by voluntary contribution. It was, however, unsuccessful, and ended 
by the heritors imposing the assessment according to the real, and 
not, as had previously been the case, by the valued rent. This 
has involved them in a series of law pleas with the manufacturers 
and feuars, occasioning great expense, and much heartburning. 
The questions which have arisen are now (1839) all adjusted. 
The poor are pressing on the funds, and often endeavour to 
make good their claims by having recourse to law. Pauperism is 
not held so much in horror as it once was, and ought to be. The 
first regular assessment was imposed in the year 1800, — one of un- 
exampled scarcity. Matters with respect to the poor are other- 
wise, however, well managed. The parish is divided into seven 
districts, over each of which there is at least one resident elder 
and one deacon, whose duty it is to examine minutely into every 
case of pauperism* The deacons are generally farmers, or others 
of business habits, and well acquainted with, and looked up to, by 
their respective districts. Their appointment, which took place 
in 1834, has been productive of the happiest effects, and may be 
recommended for adoption elsewhere. So large and efficient a 
session seems to produce a most beneficial action and effect on 
the religious and secular interests of the parish. 

In the year 1893, a number of persons associated themselves to deprive the poor 
of the profits of the mortcloth dues, though the kirk.«e6sion had reduced these to one- 
fourth nearly of their former amount, in the hope of accommodating matters with- 
out one. The session were, accordingly, constrained to have recourse to l^gal me»> 
Bures, and obtained a decreet in their fitvour in the year 1896, in which the other 
party has acquiesced. 

Drawn up in 1836, 
Revised July 1839. 



PARISH OF TEMPLE. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. JAMES GOLDIE, MINISTER.* 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The parish retains its ancient name, derived from an 
establishment for the Templars, or Red Friars, founded by King 
David I. of Scotland.f 

Extent and Boundaries. — Its extent may be about 9 miles at its 
greatest length, and its greatest breadth is about 5. Besides this, 
however, there is another portion, four miles eastward, entirely se- 
parated by a section of Borthwick parish, consisting of about 800 
acres. It is bounded on the soutli and south-west, by the parishes 
of Eddleston and Innerleithen ; on the west, by Penicuik ; on the 
north-west and north, by Carrington ; on the north-east and east, 
by Borthwick ; and on the south-east, by Heriot. 

Topographical Appearances^-^The only mountain range is that 
of Muirfoot, a continuation of Lammermuir, and running almost 
north-east to south-west. The highest of this range appears 
from the survey of Generals Roy and Mudie, to be 1850 feet, 
while Lawrie's Map of Mid- Lothian states it only at 1300 feet. In 
Knox's Map of Mid- Lothian, taken from actual survey, the prin- 
cipal elevations of this range arc stated thus : Huntly Cot-hills, 
1606 feet above the level of the sea; Long-Shank Hill, 1687 ; 
The Kips, 1785; Bowbeat Hill, 2096; Blakehope Scaurs, the 
highest in the county, 2193. 

Hydrography.— The South Esk takes its rise from the Muir- 
foot Hills, and runs through the parish for about twelve miles in 
a north-easterly direction, when it is joined by the North-water, 

In drawing up this Account, the minister has to acknowledffo the assistance of 
the ReT. Hew Scott. 

t, Pw an account of this ancient religious fraternity, see Spottiswood*s Account of 
. Religious Houses, appended to Keith's Catalogue of the Bishops, original edition, 
p. 265, and Chalmers' Caledonia, ii. 767 and 812. 
EDINBURGH. D 



50 EDINBURGHSHIIIE. 

which, taking its rise from the West Loch, in the parish of Ed- 
dlestone, runs in a more circuitous course, bounding and watering 
the parish on the north-west. After leaving the parish, it flows in 
a similar direction, until it joins the North Esk in Dalkeith Park, 
when they proceed until they join the Frith of Forth at Mussel- 
burgh. The Gore-water, one of the tributaries to the South 
Esk, also bounds the eastern district of the parish on the west. 

Geology and Mineralogy . — The Muirfoot Hills are of greywacke, 
and most part of the parish abounds with lime and freestone, while 
the detached district in the eastern part is full of coal. 

The only species of fossil organic remains hitherto found are 
shells in limestone. 

Soih — The lower part of the soil of the western district of the parish 
is chiefly dry and sharp on a gravel bottom. In the higher part, there 
is a considerable portion of mossy soil, from three inches to four 
feet deep. The eastern district of the parish is chiefly made up 
of strong clay. The light soils are much infested by quickens and 
tussilago. 

Zoology. — The cattle bred here are chiefly of the short-homed 
species, and the sheep of the black-faced kind. The rivers con- 
tain trout, &c Formerly salmon and sea-trout came up for spawn- 
ing ; since the erection, however, of dam-heads, &c for carrying 
on various manufactories, farther down the rivers, their ascent in 
this direction has been entirely prevented. 

Botany, — The parish has been much adorned by plantations 
formed by the late Lord Chief- Baron, Messrs Hepburne, formerly 
proprietors of the lands of Clerkington and Muirfoot, and the 
present Earl of Rosebery, now in possession of these estates. 
The largest ash-tree is in the garden belonging to the manse, and 
cannot be equalled in appearance and value by any in several of 
the surrounding parishes. 

II. — Civil History. 
An old account of the parish is lodged in the General Register 
House at Edinburgh,* drawn up about 1627, apparently with a 
view of ascertaining the teinds, from which it appears, the parishes 
of Clerkingtoun and Muirfut were united to Tempill ^* be ane de- 
creet of the platt, anno 1616 ;" that a scnool was then established, 
though no provision was made for it ; and that the communicants 
amounted to 300, being much the same number as at present In 

* Printed with forty-eight others of the same period, for the use of the MaitUnd 
Club. 



TEMPLE, 51 

the name of seven ^' commissioners electit and sworn for the pa- 
roche of Tempill," by whom the report was drawn up, it appears 
from the subscription of a notary, that' he was requested to adhibit 
his subscription << becaus we cannot wryte oursellfFes/' 

Land'Owners. — The principal heritors are, Robert Dundas, Esq. 
of Arniston, and the Earl of Rosebery.* The only other heritors 
are, James Dewar, Esq. of Vogrie, and William Tait of Toxside, 
The valued rent of the whole is as follows : Arniston, L. 2291, 
3s. 4d.; Rosebery, L. 1669, Is. 2d*; Vogrie, L. 287 ; Toxside, 
L. 152, 5s. 6d.; total, L. 4399, 10s. 

Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers of baptisms and 
marriages commence from the ordination of Mr David Walker at 
the meeting-house at Nicolsone, and then in Temple, 14th No- 
vember 1688: and the register of discipline commences 22d June 
1690. They form altogether four volumes, besides fragments, but 
are by no means in a good state of preservation. The records of 
births and proclamations, however, are now preserved with consi- 
derable accuracy. 

Antiquities. — The old church of Temple is very ancient ; said 
to have been built by David I. of Scotland. On the east gable im- 
mediately below the belfry are inscribed in lead put into the stone, 

ViESAC 
MIHM. 

ap inscription of which no antiquarian who has hitherto seen it, 
can give any explanation. About ten or twelve years ago, a medal 
of Oliver Cromwell the Protector was found on the farm of Rose- 
bery, and is now in possession of the Noble proprietor. 

Modern Buildings^ — The only modern building worthy of notice 
is the church, finished in 1832, which is very neat and commodi- 
ous ; and is placed on a very fine site. 

* That part of the parish of Temple which was anciently called Clarkington, and 
formed a separate parish under that denomination, was in 1695 in possession oif Sir 
John Nicolson, and formed a barony named Nicolson. In that year, it was sold to 
Axchibald Primrose of Dalmeny» in Linlithgowshire, second son of Sir Archibald 
P^imraae of Carrin^n, Bart. Lord Register and Justice. General of Scotland, who 
the same year obtained a charter under the Great Seal, by which this, with other con- 
tiguous lands^ was erected into a new barony, under the name of Rosebery, which he 
assumed as his title on being created a Viscount in 1700. This estate was sold by the 
first Earl of Rosebery in 17i2» to the Marquis of Lothian, who gave it the name of 
Mew Ancrum, but it remained only a short period in his fiimily, as it was disponed 
about 1749 to Mr Hepbume, who restored to it the original name of Clarkington. It 
was purchased in 1821 from his descendant, by Archibald John, fourth Ear] of Rose* 
bery, who again gave the barony the name wnich it bore when formerly in his family, 
and who was created a Peer of the United Kingdom, under that appellation, in ) 8^ 
The large and ancient mansion-house of the barony was began to be pulled down by 
Mr Hepburne ro 1805, and completely rased in 1812: 1m erected a small house 
nearly on the same site, which is now occupied by the principal tenant. 



52 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

III. — Population. 
The earliest account of the population occurs in the return to 
the Rev. Dr Webster in 1755, when it amounted to 905. Seven- 
teen years later, the examinable persons (above eight years of age) 
were found to be 604. 

The popuktioD, according to tbe ParliameDtary returoi, was, in 1801, - 801 

18II, - 1058 

1821. - 1166 
In 1831} t)ie population reached to 1255, being 652 malea and 603 females. 

The greatest increase in the population has taken place at Gore- 
bridge, caused by the erection of extensive works for the manufac- 
ture of gunpowder. 

The village of Gorebridge contains about 300, and Temple 
about 200 : the remaining population is scattered over the different 
&rms. 

The yearly average of births recorded for the seven years pre- 
ceding 1835, is 26f , and of marriages, 8. No register is kept of 
the mortality. 

The only resident proprietor is William Tait, Esq. 

Arniston House, the residence of the distinguished family of 
Amiston, borders on the parish ; but only the grounds and garden 
attached to it are situated in it. 

The number of families in 1831 amounted to .• 250 

chiefly employed in agriculture, • • 91 

trade, manufactures, and handicrafl, 89 
of inhabited houses at tbe same period, . 288 

of uninhabited houses, (while none were building at that period), 4 
There are 4 insane or fatuous persons. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — The trees planted are mostly oak, ash, elm, beeeb, 
and various kinds of pine. About 100 acres are under wood. 

Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land is about L. I 
per acre ; grazing cattle for six months from L. 2 to L. 4 a head. 

Wages. — Labourers receive wages about Is. 6d. a day on an 
average throughout the year. 

Husbandry is carried on according to the most improved methods. 
A part of waste land has been recovered ; but the price of grain 
is now so reduced, that it is unreasonable to expect an agriculturist 
will consume his means by improving, while so small a remuneration 
is held out for his encouragement. Irrigation is not practised to 
any extent Nineteen years is the general duration of leases. 
Farm-buildings and enclosures are generally in a state of good 
repair. It may be mentioned that the principal enclosure is the 
dry stone dike. 



J 



TEMPLE. 53 

Quarries amd Min€S.-^The quarries abound with freestone, lime, 
and ooaL 

Manufadures.'^The 6rst gunpowder manufactory in Scotland 
was erected by Kitchener and Hunter at Stobsmills in 1794, which 
has since been greatly extended. The works are on the property of 
Robert Dundas, Esq. of Amiston, and James Dewar, Esq. of Vo- 
grie; they are chiefly in this parish, though partly in Borthwick. The 
situation is well adapted for carrying on the business. They occupy 
nearly three-quarters of a mile, and the different houses required 
in the more dangerous departments are all detached, and placed 
either between the natural projections of the glen, or arti&cial 
mounds planted with trees ; consequently, when an explosion does 
occur, it seldom destroys any other building than that in which it 
originated. They are supplied by a water-power issuing from four 
dam*heads, which drive ten water-wheels, one of which is 30 feet 
in diameter. The number of men employed is from 60 to 60. 
The Company export gunpowder to almost every quarter of the 
globe, and during the late war had a contract with Government for 
a supply. They gratuitously educate about fifty children belong- 
ing to the workmen, and have given pensions to the widows and 
families of such as have been unfortunately killed. The most 
systematic care is observed to prevent accidents. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Markets^ S^c* — There is no roarket^town in the parish. Dalkeith, 

distant six miles, is the nearest ; and is the best grain-market in 

Scotland. Some farmers, however, occasionally drive their grain 

to Edinburgh, where the prices are a little higher. It is distant 

eleven miles. 

The only villages in the parish worthy of the name are those 
of Temple and Oorebridge, and a part of Stobhill, the greater 
portion of which, however, is in Newbattle. 

The post-office for the parish is at Fushie-bridge. The turn- 
pike road from Peebles to Dalkeith runs through the parish, from 
Tweeddale-bum to Garrington-bridge, an extent of about six 
miles. No public carriages travel on this turnpike road ; but only 
the carriers going weekly from the villages of Temple and Rose- 
bery to Edinburgh. 

Ecclesioitical State. — After the Reformation, it appears the 
cure of Tempill was served by William Hudsoun, minister, whose sti- 
pend amounted only to fourscore merks, with the third of the vi- 
carage, extendincr to L. 3, 6s. 8d,, in all, L. 7, 15s. Bj^jd. Ster- 



54 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ling.* At the same period Mr John Douglas was reader at Clerk- 
ington,and had of stipend L. 16, 17s. 9d., or L. 1, 8s. l|d. Sterling, 
with the kirk land, paid out of the third of Corstorphin or kirk of 
Clerkington. -f* From that period, the cure of the parish de- 
volved on Mr George Haistie, from 1590 to 1594; Mr James 
Haistie, 1595 to 1608; Mr Thomas Copland, 1620 to 1631; 
Mr Robert Couper, 1632 to 1655; Mr Robert Mowat, 1656 to 
1662, when he was thrown out for non-conformity : he was restor- 
ed (by act of Parliament) 1690, but does not appear to have again 
discharged the duty, though he survived till 1692 ; Mr Robert 
. Spottiswood, 1663 to J 676; Mr Patrick Trent, 1676 to 1681, 
when he was deprived on account of not taking the test, and was 
obliged to give place to the old Presbyterian incumbent : Mr 
Alexander Burgess, 1682 to 1690, according to the act of Par- 
liament; Mr David Walker, 1690 to 1737; he previously offi- 
ciated in the meeting-house at Nicolson, in the parish, afiter the 
toleration granted by King James VII.; he then became the 
colleague of Mr Mowat : Mr Archibald Walker, 1738 to 1760; 
Mr Joseph M^Cormack, 1760 to 1770; Mr John Goldie from 
1771 to 1788; Mr James Goldie, 1789. In 1590^ Clerkington 
with Mont Lothian (now annexed to the parish of Penicuik) and 
Morphet formed another parochial cure served by Mr James 
Haistie, minister* 

The church is situated nearly in the north-east comer of-the 
parish, and is distant from the extremity most inhabited about 
seven and a-half or eight miles. Were the population at Gore- 
bridge to attend, the situation is perhsqps as convenient as any other. 
The people in that district, however, being nearer, generally attend 
the parochial ministrations at Borthwick. 

The church is in the best state of repair, and is seated for 500 
persons ; and fi'ee-sittings are provided at the communion tables 
for about 40. The manse is an old building, and its last repair 
took place about thirty-six or thirty-seven years ago. The glebe 
consists of 14 Scots acres, and might be let for about L. 30. The 
stipend is the minimum, and is made up by Government, all pay- 
able in money. 

* He was probably deprived, having subsequently officiated only as reader, (1574 
to 1578,) when William Knox, brother to the Reformer, had the pastoral' saperin- 
tendence of Cockpen, Carrington» Clerkington, and Tempill. 

t Register of Ministers, Exhorters, and Readers, and of their stipends (about 1567) 
after the Reformation, printed at Edinburgh, 1890, and presented to the Maitland ' 
Club by Alexander Macdooald, Esq^. of the General Register- House, Edinburgh. 



TEMPLE. 55 

About 100 families in the parish belong to the Established 
Church. 

There is a Dissenting chapel at Gorebridge belonging to the 
United Secession, to which a minister was admitted in 1813. His 
stipend, which may be L. 100, (besides a house and garden,) is 
made up from the contributions at the door of the chapel, seat- 
rents, and other eleemosynary sources ; and a meeting-house, for a 
small society of Anabaptists, is situated in that part of Stobhill 
which lies within the parish. 

Education, — There are 3 schools in the parish, 1 parochial, and 
2 unendowed, at Gorebridge, supported by individual subscription. 
The ordinary branches of instruction taught at the parochial school 
are, Latin, first principles of Greek, English reading, grammar, 
writing, arithmetic, mathematics, and geography. The subscrip- 
tion schools are nearly similar, but the higher branches arc not 
there so much required. The salary of the parochial teacher is 
the maximum, and he has all the advantages allowed by law. 
His fees may amount to L. 80 per annum ; and he has about 
L. 6 per annum from other sources. The general expense of edur 
cation per quarter is, for Latin and Greek, 5s. ; writing, arith- 
metic, mathematics, and geography, 8s. 6d. ; English reading, &c., 
ds. None between six and fifteen years, or above that age, are 
without the knowledge of reading and writing. All are fully sen- 
sible of the benefits of education, and do not fail to improve them. 

Gorebridge, where the greatest population is assembled, is too 
far distant from the parochial school; but as there are two schools 
within the village, no inconvenience is felt. Children in the upper 
part of the parish have an opportunity of attending the instructions 
of a teacher at Tweeddale Burn, in the parish of Eddleston ; and 
occasionally, the farmer at Muirfoot has a teacher for his own fa- 
mily, — whose instructions are also enjoyed by others in the vicinity. 
No additional schools are required. 

Literature, — A subscription library was instituted at Gorebridge 
14th December 1818 ; the number of subscribers is above 80, 
and. of volumes 600, in almost every department of modern 
literature, adapted for the instruction and entertainment of general 
readers. 

Charitable and-other Institutions. — A Friendly Society has been 
established for about ten years at Stobsmills ; and a Savings Bank 
has been established in the parish, joined with that of Borthwick. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The annual expenditure for the 



56 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

poor, iDcludiug two lunatics, is about L. 80^ The average num<- 
ber of persons receiving aid, exclusive of them, is from 16 to 18. 
The annual amount of collections at the church door may be about 
L. 7 ; and a small sum is raised from mortcloths, probably about 
L. 2 yearly. To cover the expense of the poor, however, it has 
been found necessary to raise an assessment, which is laid in equal 
parts upon the heritors and their tenants* 

InH8y Alehouses, ffc. amount to five or six, and they are attended 
with the usual bad consequences on the morals of the people* 

Ji\iel4 — Coal is procured from Vogrie in this parish^ Amiston in 
Cockpen, and Barleydean in Carrington ; none of these places 
above four miles distant. The price varies at the several collieries 
from Is. dd. to Is. lOd. per tub of four cwt.. 

Auffust 1839. 



PARISH OF CRICHTON. 

VRESBYTER.Y OV DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. JOHN K. CUNNINGHAM, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Extent, ^c, — This parish is situated in the eastern part of the 
county of Edinburgh ; extending in length to about 5^ miles, and 
Ai in breadth. It is bounded on the north and west by the parish 
of Cranston ; on the south, by Borthwick ; and on the east, by 
Fala and Humbie. 

Topographical Appearances.^— The ground in this parish and 
neighbourhood is remarkable for its undulating nature ; hill and 
dale following each other in almost unbroken succession. It 
may be remarked, that these inequalities have been becoming more 
strikingly apparent for some years back ; in several instances, 
indeed, new irregularities of the surface are observable, and spaces 
of whole acres are visibly sinking from their former level, and form* 
ing large hollows, which but a short time ago could scarcely be 
noticed. 

The river Tyne takes its rise in the upper part of the parish, and,, 
holdbg a northerly direction for two or three miles, at last flows 

3 



CRICHTON. 67 

east through the county of Haddington, and, joined by its tributarieg, 
falls into the sea near Dunbar. 

In the lower district of the parish, a great part of the land is of a 
good deep soil, capable of producing excellent crops, while the 
rest of it is dry and sharp, and well adapted for turnip husbandry, 
which is carried on to a very considerable extent in this neigh- 
bourhood. In the upper part of the parish, the soil is much in- 
ferior, consisting chiefly of a thin moss upon a wet soft sand 
or clay bottom. Towards the east of this tract, however, the land 
again gradually improves, and, under a judicious system of manage- 
ment, is now producing crops which may almost vie with those of 
the more inland {larts of the parish. 

Wood to a great extent has been grown and cut down in the 
neighbourhood ; excellent specimens of which are still standing 
round the mansion house of Crichton. Belts of fir encircle the 
high grounds,-**which give an agreeably sheltered appearance 
to that part of the parish^ and, in^fact, are strikingly ornamental to 
the aspect of the country. 

* In the little glen which the Castle of Crichton overhangs, 
great numbers of glow-worms are to be met with in summer ; and 
if the admirer of these beautiful creatures would visit this spot in 
the twilight of the evenings, in the months of July and August, 
he would find himself amply rewarded in the brilliant display of 
shining lamps which the little illuminati of the glen are ever and 
anon beaming out around him. The month of July seems to be 
the period when the lights which they emit are the most striking 
and beautiful. After that time, they gradually become fainter, 
and towards the end of August and beginning of September, are 
extinguished for the season. 

IL — Civil Historit. 

The estate of Crichton, possessed by William Bum Callen*- 
der, Esq. comprehends by far the greatest part of the parish. The 
mansion house of the property has been long exchanged by the 
successive proprietors, for the very handsome residence of Preston- 
hall, in the neighbouring parish of Cranston. It is worthy of re- 
mark, that the garden attached to Crichton House was the first 
in Scotland, into which the present improved system of horticulture 
was introduced. 

Besides that of Crichton, there are several smaller properties in 
the parish ; Costerton, belonging to the late Rev. Francis NicolU 
D. D. Principal of the United College, St Andrews ; Blackcastle» 



58 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

to Alexander Mackavy Esq. ; a portion of the estate of John Ander- 
son, Esq. of Whitburgh ; and Ford, possessed by the late Simon 
Fraser, Esq. 

Antiquities. — On the estate of Crichton, and at a small dis- 
tance from the church, stands Crichton Castle, famous in Scotch 
story, and associated with many of its most remarkable events. Sir 
Walter Scott, in the Notes to his ** Marmion," thus writes regard- 
ing this old ruin ; <^ A large ruinous castle on the banks of the Tyne, 
built at different times, and with a very different regard to splendour 
and accommodation. The oldest part of the building is a narrow 
keep or tower, such as formed the mansion of a lesser Scottish 
Baron ; but so many additions have been made to it, that there is 
now a large court-yard, surrounded by buildings of different ages. 
The eastern front of the court is raised above a portico, and de- 
corated with entablatures bearing anchors. All the stones in this 
front are cut into diamond facets, the angular projections of which 
have an uncommonly rich appearance. The inside of this part of 
the building, appears to have contained a gallery of great length 
and uncommon elegance. Access was given to it by a magni- 
ficent staircase, now quite destroyed. The soffits are ornament- 
ed with twining cordage and rosettes, and the whole seems to have 
been far more splendid than was usual in Scottish castles/' 

Adverting to the antiquity of the castle. Sir Walter, in his 
Descriptive Illustrations of the Provincial Antiquities of Scotland, 
writes, '^ the size also and style of the building of the tower on 
the north-western angle show that it has been erected before the 
rest of the castle. Its antiquity, therefore, will probably draw back 
to the fourteenth century.*' 

We must not omit to mention the dungeon, a horrible vault, on- 
ly accessible by a square hole in the roof, through which captives 
were lowered into this den of darkness and oblivion. This pit is 
termed the ^^ massie more ;" a name of eastern origin, and still ap- 
plied to the dungeons of the ancient Moorish castles in Spain. 

The lofty massive and solid architecture impresses the specta- 
tor with a sense rather of awe than of beauty. Near the castle still 
stand the ruins of what appears to have been a chapeL 

Upon the property of Longfaugh, and forming now a part of the 
Crichton estate, there are very perfect remains of a Roman camp; 
It stands upon a rising ground, commanding one of the finest and 
most extensive views which the country can produce ; is of a cir- 
cular form, and the entrenchments entirely marked out all around. 

4 



CRTCHTON. 59 

Neither the Roman camp upon the Marquis of Lothian's ground 
to the west, nor that farther down the country, retain their dis- 
tinctive characteristics so well defined as the one in this parish. 

Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers have been kept 
with very commendable regularity since 1687 ; in which year, the 
ordination of the first minister after the Revolution is thus record- 
ed in the register of discipline : *' November (1687,) Mr Mathew 
Selkrig was ordained minister of Crichton by the Presbyterian 
persuasion at Steils Mains. His call was given by certain heritors 
and people of the parishes of Crichton, Crdnston, Ormiston, imd 
Humbie." 

III. — Population. 

Population io 1801, - 923 

1811, - 1062 

1821, . 1195 

1831, - 1325 

Present population, . 1163 

Of these there reside in the Tillage of Pathhead, as nearly as can be 

ascertained, ..... . 749 

In the country parts of the parish, . . - ' - 414 

Yearly average of baptisms for the last seven years, - - 29 

mariages, ..... 9 

Number of proprietors of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, 5 

unmarried men above 50, bachelors and widowers, - 28 

unmarried women above 45, • - - 22 

widows, ...... 52 

Number of families in the parish in 1831, - - 309 

chiefly employed in agriculture, - 57 

trade, roanuiactures, or handicraft, 70 

The number of illegitimate births during the last three years is 4. 

IV. — Industry. 

jiffrictdture. — There are in the parish about 3900 Scotch acres; 
of these there are in tillage about 3300; moorland and out6eld 450. 
The remainder may be stated as under veood. Since the date of 
the last Statistical Account several hundred acres have been 
brought into constant cultivation, and even now very much indeed 
is doing by the present skilful and enterprising tenants to render 
the whole soil more productive and profitable. 

Lime Quarries. — Limestone to a very considerable extent has 
been and still is wrought upon the Crichton estate. It is much 
valued for its superiority in building, and, for several years, many 
hundred tons were annually driven, to supply the immense demand 
which the builders of Edinburgh then required. Great quantities 
are now carried south for the purposes of manure. 

Coal Mines. — Thin strata of coal are found in different parts of 
the parish, but at present no p\^s are opened for working. 

Amount of Raw Produce, — It is in many instances diflScult to 



60 EDINBURQHSHIRE. 

come very near the tnith, with respect to the gross amount of raw 
produce in a parish* As nearly as the writer of these observations 
has been able to ascertain it, it may be stated as under :— 

Grain of difierent kinds, . . . L. 5660 

Potatoes and turnips about • 1900 

Hay about ...... 1800 

L.9a60 

V. — Parochial EcoNOMy. 
Village^ S^c. — Pathhead is the principal village in the parish, 

made up for the most part of feus from the property of Crichton. 
The great road to the south, leading by Lauder, passes through 
the village, at the foot of which, a most magnificent bridge over the 
Tyne has lately been erected upon the Ford property, under the di- 
rection of Sir John Dalrymple, the present spirited convener for this 
district of roads. The bridge consists of five arches 80 feet high, by 
50 feet span, and crossing the beautiful valley, between Ford and 
the finely wooded grounds of Prestonhall and Oxenford, presents 
a truly picturesque and commanding appearance. 

Means of Communicatiaru — There is a post-ofiice at Pathhead, 
where are two arrivals and dispatches daily; and four coaches 
run on this line of road between Edinburgh and the south. The 
convenient distance from Dalkeith opens up a most ready market 
for the agricultural produce of the parish, so that altogether the 
means of communication which it enjoys are of a very superior na- 
ture. 

Ecclesiastical State. — It is to be regretted that the situation of 
the church is inconvenient for almost the whole population, stand- 
ing as it does at the western extremity of the parish^ distant from 
its most populous village two miles, and fully four from its eastern 
boundary. It is a fine old building in the form of a cross, and 
was founded in 1449 for a provost, nine prebendaries, and two 
singing-^oys, out of the rents of Crichton and Locherwart Within 
the last twenty years, the church has undergone a thorough repair, 
and is now perhaps one of the most handsome and comfortable in 
all the country. The church is seated for 600, but its distant 
situation excludes the hope of any such number attending regu- 
larly. The average number of communicants may be stated at 290. 

Manse, jfc. — The manse was built in 1758^ and is in very good 
repair. There are between 6 and 7 acres of glebe, which is ejL* 
cellent land, and worth L.d per acre. The stipend is paid in oat- 
meal and barley ; of the former t|)ere are nearly 169 cwt, and of 
the latter 792 bushels Imperinl measure ; besides L. 8, 6s. 8d. in 



CttlCHTON. 61 

name of communioD elements. Tbe number of families connect- 
ed with the Established Church is 189. The number of Dissent- 
ers in the parish is very considerable, resulting chiefly from the re- 
mote position of the church, and from the circumstance of a Dis* 
sentingmeeting-house being placed in the immediate neighbourhood 
of Pathhead, better situated for many, who, from age and other 
causes, cannot conveniently attend the parish church.' The num- 
ber of Dissenting families is 79. 

Education. — Besides the parochial, there are four other schools 
in the parish. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is the 
maximum, viz. L.34, 46. 4^d., and the average amount of his 
schoot-fees may be about L.dO. No salaries are' attached to any 
of the other teachers. Their schools are, in general, pretty well 
attended, and the branches taught in them, as in the parish school, 
are those commonly in use in the country. The fees being mo* 
derate, the advantages of education are very generally embraced 
by the people, with the exception of the children of colliers, 
a good many of whom are resident in Pathhead. These neglected 
little ones are found useful in assisting their parents in the coal- 
pits, and the comparatively high wages which the creatures gain, 
serve too much as a hinderance to their early education, and often, 
indeed, are the means of nearly excluding them altogether from 
that blessing. It requires to be here stated, that, within these two 
years, an Infant School has been opened in Pathhead, under the 
patronage and support of Mrs Bum Callender of Prestonhall. 
This institution is answering many of the expectations of its bene- 
volent projector, and promises, with the blessing of God, to be 
productive of much and lasting good. 

Library. — There is a circulating library in Pathhead. It con- 
tains a good many of the standard works of the present time, 
and is in a thriving way. 

Friendly Societies. — A society was formed in 1818^ consisting of 
ploughmen and others in the parish, called the ** Whipman So- 
ciety," the object of which was to raise a fund for the supply of 
distressed members, and to allow a certain sum at the death of 
a member or a member's wife, to defray the funeral charges. The 
Society has at present on its roll 68 members, and its funds 
amount to L. 180. A ** Juvenile Friendly Society," having very 
interesting objects in view, was instituted in 1833. It is in a 
flourishing condition ; its funds amount to L. 150, and the present 
number of its members is 232. 



62 EDINBUaOHSHIRE. 

• 

-Poor and Parochial Funds, — Pauperism is ver^ much upon the 
increase in this parish, and the evils resulting from it are griev- 
ously felt. The fine feeling of independence, which so nobly 
distinguished even the poorest of Scotsmen in past years, and 
rendered them the honour and the pride of Britain, is now pas* 
sing fast away, and the demoralising influence, arising from the 
want of this spirit, is creeping as a pestilence over this neigh- 
bourhood. Instead of spuming from them the parish supply, and 
striving to support themselves and their children, by their own 
independent exertions, as their fathers . would have done before 
them, they now court the degrading pittance of parochial aid, and 
olamour as loudly for a place in the poor's roll, as though the 
highest merit lay in such a distinction. There are at present 35 
individuals receiving supply from the parish, the average of whose 
monthly allowance is 4s. There are others to whom occasional 
relief is given. The assessment for the last seven years averages 
L.139. 

Alehotises, — The number of alehouses not only in this but 
neighbouring parishes, calls loudly for an improvement in the pre« 
sent system of licensing such nurseries of licentiousness and de« 
bauchery. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The most striking variations betwixt the present state of the 

parish, and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical 
Account, are to be found in the improvedsystem of agriculture 
now pursued, which, in the hands of a skilful and intelligent 
tenantry, is producing effects highly advantageous to the commu- 
nity, affording a ready supply of labour to the industrious, and 
enhancing the value of the properties, where their capital and skill 
are exerted. 

Auffust 1839. 



PARISH OF NEWBATTLE. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. JOHN THOMSON, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — Newbattle or Newbottle, as it is often spelt, has been, 
time immemorial, the name of this parish ; but of its origin I have 
not been able to discover any satisfactory account, and tradition is 
often too vague to be depended on. The parish was once divided 
into two, Newbattle and Maisterton. When they were united is 

uncertain. 

Extent^ 4fc, — Its greatest extent in length is about 4^ miles ; 

and its greatest breadth about 0. Its mean length and breadth 

may be about 4 miles by 2, — hence it contains 8 square miles or 

nearly so. 

Its figure resembles an irregular triangle, of which the east side, 
stretching from Fordale House to Newbyres Tower, is the base. 
The vertical point of the triangle is nearly where it joins the town 
of Dalkeith. It is bounded on the east, by Cranston and Borth- 
wick ; on the south, by Borthwick and Cockpen ; on the west, by 
Lasswade ; and on the north, by Dalkeith. 

From its extremities it rises gradually in every direction, till it 
terminates in a ridge of considerable extent, known by the name 
of the Roman Camp ; the elevation of which, above the sea, is 
680 feet. 

Climate, — The climate varies greatly, considering its extent In 
the vale of Newbattle, it is exceedingly mild ; at the Roman 
Camp, it is very keen. If there is any complaint more prevalent 
than another in this parish it is asthma or consumption, especially 
among the colliers, arising chiefly from the impure air which they 
breathe, and the damp to which they are constantly exposed. In 
the village of Newbattle, however, for the last nineteen years, old 
age has carried off more than any other complaint whatever ; and 
. there are at present several persons from eighty to ninety years of 



64 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

age, some of them still vigorous^ who have resided in it the greater 
part of their lives. 

Geology and Mineralogy .-^CodX mines have been wrought in 
this parish to a very considerable extent on both sides of the hill, 
on the range of the Roman Camp, by means of levels brought up 
from the bed of the Tyne on the south-east side, and from the 
river South Esk on the north-west side ; and they will in future be 
more extensively wrought, in consequence of a direct communica* 
tion having been opened from the field of coal to Edinburgh, by 
means of a railway. The Marquis of Lothian has, at his own ex- 
pense, completed a railway from the mines, one mile and a half in 
length, to Dalhousie Mains, where it forms a junction with the 
Edinburgh Company's Railway. By this mode of conveyance, the 
minerals, coal, limestone, and sandstone, will in future be carried, 
from the mine or quarry to the Depot at St Lebnardst In the 
progress of this operation, a valley of 1200 feet in breadth had to 
be overcome. This has been done by means of a bridge, consist* 
ing of three main arches of cast-iron in the Gothic style, each 65 
feet span, and the one that crosses the river is 70 feet in height at 
the centre of the arch from its bed. The other two are not so high 
above the ground. These arches have stone piers, built from the 
quarries of the proprietor. Besides these, there are eighteen stone 
pillars, ten of which are joined at the top by horizontal iron beams, 
and eight by beams of wood ; the whole the design of Mr John 
Williamson, Newton Grange, the manager of his Lordship's col- 
liery. 

Limestone has been but partially wrought to serve a limited de-* 
mand, by skirting the outbursts or crops, and tirring the superin*^ 
cumbent deposits ; but as these in future will be increased, it is 
the intention of the proprietor to work it under cover, and to a 
much greater depth. The quality of the lime has been generally 
acknowledged to be excellent, and it everywhere abounds in the 
field. 

Sandstone is also in great abundance, and two or three quarries 
ba\e been wrought to a considerable extent, by tirring the surface 
only. One quarry has been wrought many feet below the sur&ce 
without tirring, and the stones drawn up by a horse power along 
an inclined plane. The quality is fit for all ordinary purposes. Dur<- 
ing the progress of the railway the manager wrought it thirty fa- 
thoms under cover,. of excellent quality. 

G«o/o^y.— The geology of the parish cannot be better explain- 



NEWBATTLE. 65 

ed than by stating the breadth of the Mid- Lothian mineral field, 
as resolving itself into two hills or wings ; the one resting north* 
ward on the old red sandstone of the Craigtnillar range ; and 
that again on the secondary rocks of the Salisbury Crag. The 
foot of its base southward, rests at the river South Esk, where the 
other commences, rising upwards to its summit, the Roman camp, 
and descending downwards again to the foot of its base, at the river 
Tyne. Beyond Ford, it will again be found resting on the old red 
sandstone, and that on the greywacke, amygdaloid, and porphyry 
of the Moorfoot range, in which range no granite or primitive 
rocks are found. 

Mineraloffy.'^^The minerals of Newbattle parish comprise about 
one-half of that breadth, viz. firom the river South £sk at New- 
mills, to near the Tyne at Ford ; and the position of this part 
of the mineral field may be represented as a great cone of from ten 
to twelve miles round the base, and whose apex is the Roman 
camp. The base of the hill will everywhere be found to be 
the magnesian limestone, with the coal and its concomitants com- 
pletely encirclmgit; and everywhere burstingor cropping out towards 
its apex, and dipping towards the valleys, at an angle varying from 
15^ to 80^ Rising at such an acute angle, it is generally found 
that the coal concomitants are thrown off before they reach the 
summit of the hill, and the limestone base appears ; and with such 
a sharp dip to the valley at Newmills, the foot of the base, the 
coal and its concomitants, would be 2400 feet, at least, in thick- 
ness, in intersecting which from thirty to forty working seams of 
coal would be cut through, varying from eighteen inches to eight 
feet in thickness. From this it appears that the parish of New- 
battle, for extent of minerals, will be found to equal, if not to surpass, 
any parish in Scotland. The coal concomitants consist of little 
variety, and are an alternation of sandstone, red and white, of dif- 
ferent texture and hardness, grey faikes, or slaty limestone, slate 
clay, sometimes with ironstone bands and balls of undefined tex- 
ture and quality ; indurated clay, &c The dikes, fissures, and 
dislocations are of pretty frequent occurrence, and in some cases 
of formidable dimensions, disjointing the strata up and down, some 
forty, some twelve, some six, and some five fathoms, although, 
upon the whole, it may be said to be a clean field. 

Fossih, — Fossil remains both of plants and animals abound in 
great variety and profusion. The vegetable fossil remains have 

EDINBURGH. E 



66 EDINBUUGHSHIRE. 

always been found in the sandstone. Fishes and marine shells, 
though rarer, have been found in the limestone. 

Calcareous spar is found among the limestone, but neither per- 
fect nor in great abundance. 

A great part of the alluyial deposit may be said to be hard clay, 
varying in depth from six to sixty feet ; a small part is loamy, 
sandyj or peat, and a great proportion, gravel, with rounded blocks, 
in some places at a depth of sixty feet and upwards, and bearing 
indications of having been transported. Marine shells are frequent. 
This depth, however, is only found in the lower ground ; towards 
the hill, the covering is generally thinner. 

Soil — There is a great variety of soil in this parish. In the 
valley which lies in the north-west quarter, and which conceals, 
till a near approach, the church, the village, and the &mily man- 
sion of the Marquis of Lothian, the soil consists of a rich loam, in 
some places four feet deep, and has every appearance of being al- 
luvial. As it lies upon a stratum of sharp gravel, the surface is 
soon dried, and hence the air is more salubrious than might be 
expected from its low position. 

On the north and west sides of the hill, the soil grows worse as 
one ascends from the river towards the camp, shifting from a loam 
to a strong clay, and then to a wet whitish sandy earth, which, 
nevertheless, when properly cultivated, produces average crops. 
On the south-eastern slope of the camp, there was formerly a large 
tract of ground, marshy and barren, but, for several years past, it 
has been drained, and is now not only in a state of cultivation, but 
exceedingly productive. On the south-west declirity, what was a 
few years ago a mere waste, and consequently of little value, is 
now, with the exception of a few acres, either covered with thriv- 
ing plantations, or brought under cultivation. 

Zoology. — In regard to zoology there is nothing peculiar to this 
parish deserving of particular notice. I may, however, mention 
an insect, known here by the name of the American bug, which, 
for some years past, has infested the finer kinds of the apple-trees- 
It makes its appearance in the months of July and August, princi- 
pally upon the branches that had been infected the year before, 
and is found in clusters, covered with a white down, on wall trees, 
betwixt the branches and the wall. This insect is particularly in-' 
jurious to the young shoots. On the places which it infests, there 
soon appears a protuberance, resembling a knot, extremely hard. 
Sometimes the whole inside of the young shoot is covered with 



NEWBATTLE. 67 

this excrescence, and when that is the case, it is good for nothing. 
No specific, as far as I know, has yet been discovered for destroy- 
ing these vermin without injuring the tree ; add unless such dis* 
covery is made, it will ultimately ruin our finest apple-trees. 

Botany. — I am not aware that any of the rarer species of plants 
has ever been been found in this parish. Those used for culinary 
and other purposes, are numerous \ such as cabbages and greens 
of all kinds, cauliflower and colewort, broccoli, turnip, carrot, beet-* 
root, green peas, parsley, celery, cresses, &c. 

We have no forests, but there are many thriving plantations, 
especially upon the Marquis of Lothian's property. The princi- 
pal kinds of wood are oak, ash, elm, beech, plane-tree, and firs of 
various sorts, &c. If we may judge from the size of the^wood, the 
soil is perfectly congenial to all these kinds. In the lawn which 
surrounds Newbattle Abbey, there are many trees of great age and 
remarkable for their size and form. Most of the planes, and some 
of the elms, are majestic and beautiful. But the largest of all is 
a beech, standing near the house, which, at a yard above the ground, 
measures 22 feet in circumference. The length of the trunk, be- 
fore it begins to spread its largest branches, is 24 feet. Some of 
its limbs are of immense size. Its branches cover a circle of 33 
yards diameter, and it contains upwards of 900 cubic feet of 
wood. Strangers from all quarters visit this tree, and they unani- 
mously declare that it is the largest they have seen in Scotland. 

II. — Civil History. 

Eminent Men, — The only man of eminence as a literary charac- 
ter, connected with the parish, with whose history I am acquaint- 
ed, was Bishop Leighton, who was once minister of Newbattle. 
He was inducted into that charge in the year 1648; if tradition 
may be depended upon, part of the pulpit in which he preached is 
still in existence, and in high preservation. 

Land-ottmers. — The land-owners are, the Marquis of Lothian, 
who possesses at least three-fourths of the parish; Mr Dalrymple of 
Fordale ; Mr Dundas of Arniston ; and Mr Ker of Blackshiels. 

Parochial Registers. — Parochial registers have been long kept. 
The minutes of session were begun in 1616 ; the register of bap- 
tisms in 1646 ; of proclamations of marriage in 1650 ; of minutes 
of heritors in 1740; of receipts and disbursements in 1642; of 
registers of burials in 1740. Some of these registers are volumi- 
nous, but irregularly kept ; and many blanks occur in all of them. 

Antiquities. — The only antiquity of which this parish can boast, 



. I 



68 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

is an eminence, already mentioned, and known by the name of the 
Roman Camp. On this eminence, there are evidently the remains 
of an ancient enclosure, supposed to have been a Roman station, 
but at what period is uncertain. Being now crowded with trees 
it cannot be accurately examined. It appears, however, to be of 
"a quadrangular form, and has an opening to the south-east. It 
contains about three acres of ground, and from its lofty position, 
it seems to have been wisely chosen, both as a place of defence 
and of observation. 

Modem Buildings. — Newbattle Abbey, the seat of the Marquis 
of Lothian, is a modern building ; and the plan of it, especially 
within, discovers the taste and judgment of the architect, as it is 
exceedingly commodious. In the library, which is voluminous and 
valuable, are several manuscripts in folio, written upon vellum, and 
every page of them is adorned with pictures, emblematic of the 
respective subjects of which they treat. Of these the most highly 
finished are the following : Jean Boccace des cas des noble Hom- 
ines et F. Fainmes, 1409 : John Tikyt hymni: Titus Livius, per 
P. Berceun : Augustin de la Cit^ de Dieu. 

In all of them, the figures are coloured and gilded with so much 
delicacy and richness, as to afibrd an excellent specimen of the la- 
bour and elegance with which they have been executed. These 
manuscripts had, in former times, belonged to the Abbey, the 
monks of which were of the Cistertian order. It was founded and 
endowed by David I. A copy of the original grant is still in exis- 
tence. A wall surrounded it, which retains the name of the Monk- 
land wall, but it is now far from being entire. The present house 
is built upon the spot which was formerly occupied by the monas- 
tery, and stands surrounded by a level lawn, containing from thirty 
to forty acres of ground. It is watered on the one side by the 
river South Esk, the only river in the parish, which, after descend- 
ing through the rocks of Arniston and Cockpen, flows along the 
park in a quiet stream, and is overhung with flourishing planta- 
tions. On the other side, it is skirted by a waving line of woods, 
which, complying with the ascents and swellings of the banks, are 
seen rising above one another, and exhibit a beautiful variety of 
shades. These woods, nearly meeting at each end, form the lawn 
into a kind of amphitheatre, in the middle of which, as you ap- 
proach from the south, there is an avenue 520 yards long, lined 
on each side with trees of the most majestic size. On this ap- 
proach, where it crosses the village of Newbattle, there stands a 
venerable looking gate, whose antique appearance is greatly admir- 



NEWBATTLE. 60 

ed by every stranger. Below the Abbey there is a bridge upon 
the Esk, rudely built, and overspread with ivy, which has survived 
all accounts of its age and founder. Ranges of trees in the oppo- 
site direction, close, at a proper distance, into vistas ; while the 
eye, in wandering over the beaulies of the scene, is caught by the 
simple spire of the parish church, and by the smoke, which, rising 
from the adjacent village, hovers above the lofty trees. 

It has already been said that the lawn which surrounds the Ab- 
bey contains from thirty to forty acres. This, however, is not to 
be understood as including the whole park. Within the extended 
wall, there are at least 220 acres, divided into fields, and skirted 
either with aged wood or young plantations. 

The only other mansion house in the parish is that of Woodburn, 
belonging to Mr Ker. It is a modern building, standing on a ris- 
ing ground on the east bank of the Esk. There are some fine 
trees around it, and it commands a most beautiful prospect 

There are two mills for corn and one for flour. There is also a 

paper-mill. 

IIL — Population. 
There is no account of the population of this parish, known to 

me, previous to Dr Webster's report in the year 1755. It then 

amounted to 1439 souls. In the year 1779, it consisted of 1670 

souls; and in 1793, there were 606 males, and 689 females, in all 

1295 souls, of whom 1017 were of the Established Church, and 

278 of the Secession. 

At the census taken up under the direction of Parliament 

In 1811, the population was, - - 1651 

1821, 1710 

1831, it was (928 males, and 959 females,) - 1882 

Since 1811, it appears from the above statement, that the po- 
pulation of this parish has been gradually increasing ; and the only 
mode of accounting for it, is the extension of the Marquis of Lo- 
thian's colliery. For years past, there have been many more 
hands employed in it than at any former period. 

The population in the villages, for there are no towns is, - 846 
in the country, - • • - 981 

Yearly average of births for the last seven years, 50, exclusive of Dlasenters. 
of deaths, - - - 39* 

ofmarriages, - - - 16 

The average number of persons under 15 years of age is about, 709 

betwixt 15 and 30, - 510 

aO and 50, - d69 

50 and 70, - 190 

upwards of 70, - - 49 

* The average of deaths cannot be exactly ascertained, as there is no regular re- 
nter of mortality kept. 



70 KDINBURGHSHIRE. 

The only Noble family in the parish is the Marquis of Lothian's; 
Mr Ker of Blackshiels also resides in it. The number of pro- 
prietors has already been mentioned. 

The number of bachelors and widowers upwards of 50 years of age is, - 1i6 

unmarried women upwards of 45, . . ~ 00 

families, - - . - - - 874 

Average number of children in each about, ... .3 

Number of families employed in agriculture, . - - 74 

in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, - 41 

There are no uninhabited houses, nor are there any building. 

Number of insane, 2 ; of fatuous, 2 ; of blind, 2. 

Number of illegitimate births during the last three years, 9. 

Habits, 8fc. of the People. — The language spoken is English. 
Habits of the people in general cleanly. Ordinary food of the 
peasantry, tea or porridge to breakfast ; broth and a little meat 
and potatoes or cheese to dinner ; and potatoes or porridge to sup- 
per. The people on the whole enjoy, to a considerable degree, 
the advantages of society, and they seem perfectly contented with 
their situation in life. Their character is of an intellectual cast, 
and they are in general moral and religious. Poaching in game 
does prevail to a certain extent among the lower orders, and only 
among them. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — The number of acres, standard imperial measure, 
in the parish under cultivation is 4700. 

With the exception of the ground under wood, there are not 
above 7 or 8 acres that never have been cultivated ; and these be- 
ing chiefly braes, could not with any advantage be brought under 
cultivation. 

There is no undivided common in the parish. The number of 
acres under wood of every description is about 300. The diffe- 
rent kinds of trees have already been enumerated. The manage- 
ment is good in regard to thinning, pruning, and periodical felling ; 
and, from the attention paid to the wood in these respects, a con* 
siderable revenue may be expected in a few years. 

HenU — As the soil in this parish is very different in point of 
quality, so the rents vary in proportion, being from L. 1 to L. 6 
per acre Scotch, The average per imperial acre may be about 
L. 1, 12s. 

The average rent of grazing, at the rate of L. 5 during the 
summer season, for a full-grown ox or cow ; and at the rate of 
15s. per annum for a full-grown sheep, — is about L. 4 per acre. 



NEWBATTLE. - 71 

Wages. — The wages of a farm-labourer for the year are 9s. per 
week ; for a ploughman, 10s. per week ; for country artisans, such 
as smiths and carpenters, 12s. per week; for masons generally a 
little more. 

This being principally a grain parish, there are few sheep or 
cattle kept purposely for breeding stock. The only old grass in 
it are a few parks belonging to the Marquis of Lothian, and these 
are generally let to fleshers for the sole purpose of feeding : Rent 
from L. 3 to L. 5 per acre. The few cows and horses which the 
farmers rear for the use of their families or for agricultural purposes, 
are grazed in parks taken elsewhere. 

The larger farms are from 200 to 450 acres Scotch measure 
in extent. The smaller ones from 20 acres up to 200. 

Husbandry, — The general character of the husbandry is good. 
In regard to rotation of crops it is as follows : On a clay soil, I. 
grass ; 2. oats ; 3. summer fallow or beans ; and 4. wheat with 
grass seeds. On a light soil, 1. grass ; 2. oats ; 3. potatoes or tur- 
nip ; 4. wheat ; and 5. barley, with dung and grass seed. The 
whole parish, with the exception of what is under wood, being 
arable, is mostly kept in tillage ; and as the greater part of it is 
wet clay, draining is much wanted. This, indeed, is one of the 
greatest improvements of which it is susceptible, and it is now be- 
ginning to be adopted.* Were it completely drained and stripes of 
wood judiciously planted for shelter, its value would be encreased, 
and its beauty improved. These, with the advantage of markets 
near at hand, and the great abundance of coal and lime which it 
contains, will render it, under the mangement of a skilful and ac- 
tive tenantry, not less productive than any parish, of equal extent^ 
in the county. 

Leases. — The general duration of leases is nineteen years, which 
seems to be fair a period both for landlord and tenant, when the 
farm is taken in good order ; but when the land is wasted or run 
outy the lease ought to be longer, especially where draining is ne- 
cessary, and is to be performed at the expense of the tenant. 

The iarm steadings in general are of long standing, and some 
of them rather in a state of decay, which is a bar to the keeping 
of stock. The enclosures also, with the exception of those im- 
mediately rqund the Abbey, are incomplete. This is in a great 

* Many plantations arc now being made by the Marquis of Lothian, both iu the 
shape of stripes and clumps, which will answer these purposes. 



72 EDINBUBUHSHIRE. 

measure owing to the manner in which the coal has hitherto 
been wrought There are coal-pits, and consequently roads lead« 
ing to them, in almost every field, which renders it next to impos- 
sible to keep the fences in good order. For the same reason, the 
parish roads are far from being good* They are much cut up 
with coal- carts, and stand in need of a thorough repair. These 
are all obstacle? to improvement; and, unless they are re- 
moved, it is hardly to be expected that improvements can be car- 
ried to any great extent One of them, however, the writer is 
happy to observe, is soon to be obviated. The roads are to under- 
go a complete repair ; and, as the coal-carts in future will in a great 
measure be taken off them by means of the rail-road, and as a 
sufficient sum is levied annually by assessment on the tenants for 
their support, there will no longer exist any cause of complaint on 
this score. The repairs, indeed, are already begun. 

The greatest improvement which has recently taken place is 
the bridge already described, which carries the railway over the 
valley of the South Esk at Dalhousie Mains. It was erected at the 
sole expense of the Marquis of Lothian, and is a great ornament 
to the neighbouring scenery, as it mixes the grand with the beau- 
tiful. 

Though the tenantry in this parish are highly respectable, and 
comparatively in a flourishing condition, their rents, especially upon 
the Marquis's property, being in general moderate, yet it must 
not be denied that a larger capital would in some instances be 
extremely advantageous, as it would enable them to extend their 
improvements in the way of draining, &c. which in a clay soil would 
amply repay them by the surplus crops which it would produce. 

Prodfuce.— The average gross amount of raw produce raised 
annually in the parish is nearly as follows : 

Produce of grain of all kinds, cuUitated for the food of man and of 

domestic animals, . . L. 17>212 10 

potatoes, turnips, cabbage, &c. . 4,000 

^ hay of every doeription, .... 2,^00 

pasture grass, rating as previously mentioped, 3,600 

There are annually about 575 acres Scotch of suanner fallow in the 

parish. 

Produce of gardens and orchards about, . 405 

coals and quarries, . . 1,600 

Yearly value of produce raised, L. 29,317 10 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market-'Towny S^c. — There is no market-town, nor other towns 



NfiWBATTLE. 73 

ID the parish. Dalkeith is in the immediate vicinity ; and Edin- 
burgh at six miles distance. 

There are 4 villages in the parish, some of them but small. 
Means of communication are turnpikes and private or parish roads. 
Length of the former within the parish is about twelve miles. 
Public carriages of all kinds travel on them. 

There is no post-office within its limits ; but those of Dalkeith, 
Fushie Bridge, and Ford, are all immediately upon its borders. 
There are four bridges upon the South Esk besides the railway, all 
in excellent condition. . The only rail-road in the parish has al- 
ready been mentioned ; and the purpose for which it was intended 
described. It was finished a few years ago. 

Ecdesioitical State, — The church is situated in the village of 
Newbattle, which, being nearly at the western extremity of the pa- 
rish, renders it inconvenient for those in the opposite parts ; as 
some of them have to travel nearly three miles and a>half before 
they reach it It was built in 1727, and is in a tolerable good 
state of repair. It has a spire about 70 feet high. It affords ac- 
commodation for about 420 persons. In regard to the sittings, 
they may all be said to be free, for none pay rent for their seats. 

The manse, as it now stands, has been built at different times. 
There is still a part of the old manse remaining, but the time when 
it was built is uncertain. The new part or front was erected dur- 
ing the incumbency of the Rev. James Brown. It was completely 
repaired in 181 d. The glebe consists of 6 Scotch acres of ex- 
cellent ground, independent of the manse and garden. It is let 
for led, 10s. per acre, which is a fair rent. The stipend consists of 77 
bolls 2 firlots i ,\ pecks of barley ; 77 bolls 2 firlots 1 { ^ pecks of 
oats ; and 19 bolls, 3^ pecks of wheat. There is also L. 20, 13s. 
3|d. of money. The teinds are exhausted. 

In this parish there are no Dissenting houses or chapels of any 
description whatever. 

The number of persons of all ages belonging to, and attending, 
the Established Church, is 1562, and those belonging to the Se-» 
cession anK)unt to about 265. The parish church is generally 
well attended, although it must be acknowledged, and is deeply to 
be lamented, that there are some in the lower ranks, especially 
among the colliers, lately brought to the parish, who pay little re- 
gard to public worship of any kind. 

The average number of communicants at the Established Church 
is about 310. 



74 EDINBURGHSHIUE. 

There are collections at the church door for charitable and re- 
ligious purposes, annually. They have anotounted, during the in- 
cumbency of the present minister, from L.5 to L.d8. 

Education* — There are two principal schools in the parish, the 
parochial, and one endowed. In the endowed school are taught 
English, arithmetic, writing, book-keeping, and grammar. In the 
parochial school are taught the same branches, with the addition of 
Latin, Greek, geometry, and the use of the globes. The paro- 
chial schoolmaster has the maximum salary, and all the other legal 
accommodations. The school fees may amount to from L. 15 to 
L. 20 annually. The endowed school has attached to it a school- 
house and garden, with a salary of L. 1 5 per annum, paid solely 
by the Marquis of Lothian, who built the school at his own ex- 
pense. The school fees amount to about L. 40 yearly. There 
are three minor schools unendowed. Children here in general do 
not begin writing till they are seven or eight years of agef. From 
thai to fifteen I know of no niales that cannot write. Above fifteen 
years of age, there are no males, to the best of my belief, and but 
few females, who have not been taught writing. I know there are 
some, but the exact numbers I cannot precisely state. The people 
in general are exceedingly alive to the benefits of education ; and 
they make evei^ exertion to procure them for their children. 
There are no parts of this parish so distant as to prevent attend- 
ance on one or other of the schools. Besides, there are schools in 
the neighbouring parishes, close upon its boundaries, to which those 
in the remote corners have easy access. Since the facilities of 
education became so great, the people, upon the whole, have visi- 
bly improved in knowledge, and in their moral conduct, although 
further improvement in regard to sobriety among the lower ranks 
is much to be desired. 

Literature. — There is on a small scale, a parochial or circulat- 
ing library in the parish, lately established. 

Friendly Societies, — There are one or two Friendly Societies, 
one among the carters, and another among the colliers. They 
have been in existence for a considerable time, and their object is 
to relieve their members when in distress. But though the object 
is good, I am somewhat doubtful as to their advantages ; for I do 
not perceive that the members of these societies are more indus- 
trious, or more desirous of independence, than others. On the 
contrary, I am afraid that, with regard to some, instead of promot- 
ing industry, they tend to encourage inactivity and a neglect of 



NEWBATTLE. 75 

economy) by holding out the prospect of support, to a certain de- 
greoy when they become sick or infirm. 

Saving Bank. — A few years ago we had a saving bank, which 
succeeded very well for a short time, and considerable sums were 
lodged in it. The principal contributors were the members of two 
youth^s societies in the parish, tradesmen, and servants both male 
and female. But the members, taking alarm at some enactments 
that were made by the Legislature concerning saving banks, broke 
it up. Since that time there does not appear any desire among 
the people to have another established. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of persons 
upon the poor's roll for the last seven years, is 39. They re- 
ceive annually from L. 2 to L. 4, 10s. each, according to their se- 
veral circumstances. Besides these, there are many that receive 
occasional relief, whose poverty is not so great as to render it ne* 
cessary to put them on the roll. The annual amount of con- 
tributions for their relief, arising from church collections, mort- 
cloths, &c is from L. 31 to L.34' The only other fund for the 
relief of the poor is an assessment of L. 110 annually, which is laid 
on and levied, in equal parts, twice a-year. It is matter of deep 
regret that there is no disposition among the poor to refrain from 
asking parochial relief, and so far are they from considering it as 
degrading, that they claim it as a legal right 

Ale-houses. — There are five public, or rather dram-houses in the 
parish ; and their effects upon the lower orders of society are of the 
most demoralizing nature. There were lately more, but they were 
fortunately suppressed, and the writer of this is most anxious to 
have them still farther reduced. 

FueL — Coal is the only fuel, of which there is great abundance 
in the parish ; price at the pit from 6s. to 9s. per ton, according to 
the quality. 

S^tember 1839. 



PARISH OF RATHO. 

PRESBlTTERr OF EDINBURGH) SYNOD OFLOTHIAN AND TWEEDDilLE. 

THE REV. JAMES GLASON, A. M. MINISTER. 



L— Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — The parish of Ratho is so called, according to Chalmers 

in his Caledonia, from the ancient baronial residence of that name, 
which was within its bounds. According to the same authority, 
the name is of British origin, being derived from the word Bhath^ 
plural RathaUf* signifying a cleared spot, a bared place or plain ; 
which derivation, although not consistent with the features of the 
parish as a whole, is yet in accordance with that part of it upon 
which the present mansion, like its predecessor, stands. It may 
be farther remarked, that the Celtic Eath^ which has the same pri- 
mary meaning with the British term already mentioned, signifies 
secondarily, a fort or artificial mount ; so that possibly the name of 
Ratho may have been conferred upon the place, not more on ac- 
count of its natural situation than the artificial works by which it 
was defended. 

Extent^ Boundarie^f Sfc* — This parish is 4 miles long by 2^ 
broad at an average ; and contains about 10 square miles of sur- 
face. It is bounded on the north, by the parishes of Kirkliston 
and Corstorphine ; on the east, by Corstorphine and Currie ; on 
the south, by Currie ; and on the west, by Kirknewton and Kirk- 
liston. 

Topographical Appearances. — The general aspect of the parish 
fs one of considerable beauty from the delightful mixture of hill 
and dale, of highly cultivated fields and thriving plantations. 
From the eastern boundary to the centre the ground is of a 
slightly undulating character, but rather flat than otherwise. On 
the west side, there runs from north to south-west, for about 

■ 

* In ancient charters) the name of the parish is written in the different forms of 
Ratbew, Ratheu, Rathov. On two communion cups, which bear the date 1084, it 
is spelt Rutha and Rotha. The orthography is the same as at present on other two 
church utensils, which bear date only a year later. 



RaTHO. 



77 



a couple of miles, a ridge^ or rather a succession of eminences 
of table-land) crowned with stripes and clumps of trees, which 
add very much to the beauty of the scene. From the whole 
of this ridge^ which averages from 300 to 400 feet in height^ 
the view is extensive and highly picturesque.* We believe there 
are few spots in Scotland where such a prospect can be obtained 
with so little exertion. From the South Piatt Hill, which is a few 
minutes walk from the manse, there is a distinct view of portions 
of at least ten different counties ; some say of no fewer than four- 
teen. The Pentlands circumscribe the prospect to the south, but 
from the east round to the south-west, the eye ranges over the cul- 
tivated plains of the Lothians, the Frith of Forth with the adja- 
cent coasts of Berwick and Fife, the counties of Kinross, Clack- 
mannan, Lanark, and Stirling, and the giant rampart of the 
Grampians from Benvoirlich to Benlomond. In a clear state of 
the atmosphere, the view to the west is truly grand ; but on an or- 
dinary day, the immediate view of the surrounding parishes, and 
particularly of Edinburgh with its environs, will well repay the slight 
labour of ascent to one who possesses the smallest taste for the 
beautiful in nature. 

From the Calder road, to which this ridge descends, the land 
again rises with a gradual ascent, till it reaches its greatest altitude 
in the two rocky eminences called the Dalmahoy and Kaimes hills. 
These two insulated hills, it may remarked, rising from the east, 
terminate abruptly to the west in the manner of Salisbury Crags, 
and the similar eminences with which Stirling and its neighbour- 
hood abounds, as if at a distant period they had been washed by 
some great western tide. 

* The following is a statement of the altitude of differeut parts of the parish, as as- 
certained by actual survey. 'It is eopied from a map of the pariah executed by J. 
Andersoni £sq. 



Above 
level of 
the 



Above Below 
Union Union 
Canal. Canal. 



Feet. 
Union Canal, 232 

Bonnington House, 41 2 
Burnwynd, 906 

Dalmahoy House» 837 
Hatton House* 335 
Hillwood, 318 

Afilbum Tower, 155 
Norton HaU, 341 

North Piatt Hill, 356 
South PUtt Hill, 380 

Climaie. — Situated 



Feet. Feet. 




180 

74 

105 

103 

86 



109 

124 

148 









77 






Above Above Below 
level of Union Union 
the sea. CaiiaL Canal. 



Ratho village, 
middle of, 
Ratho Kirk, 
Ratho House, 
Ratho Manse* 
Ashley, 
Tormain Hill, 
Dalmahov Hill, 
Kaimes Hill, 



Feet. 

274 

225 
248 
244 
199 
474 
660 
680 



Feet. 
42 


16 
12 


242 







Feet. 




7 


33 






The last two are taken from the Caledonia. 



in the centre of the extensive valley which 



78 EDINBURGHSHIUE. 

lies between the Pentland range and the high lands that skirt the 
Forth, this parish is particularly exposed to currents of wind from 
the east and west. The east wind prevails chiefly during the spring 
months, but is experienced at intervals throughout the year, bring- 
ing along with it occasionally a thick haar, which is very pre- 
judicial to the invalid. The west wind prevails more during the 
summer and autumn. It is perhaps the most constant, certainly 
the most violent wind we have, as appears from the fact, that the 
branches of the trees invariably incline to the east. Our heavi* 
est rains are from the south-east; our most frequent rains fall 
when the wind is between the west and south, which brings the 
clouds into contact with the Pentland ridge, whence they descend 
in showers over the neighbouring parishes. 

The free circulation of air that the parish enjoys, is one cause 
which undoubtedly operates strongly, in conjunction with the ele- 
vation of a considerable portion of it, in producing a pure and heal- 
thy temperature of the atmosphere. In proof of the natural 
healthiness of the climate, it may be remarked, as a traditional no- 
tice, that when the plague prevailed in Scotland, Ratho was ex- 
empted from its ravages. And at a later period, when many of the 
neighbouring parishes were visited with cholera, only one case, if 
indeed it was one, occurred in this village. Some thirty years ago, 
intermittent fevers were not uncommon ; but, with the system of 
draining, to which the land generally has been subjected, these 
have totally disappeared ; and there is now no indigenous disease 
in the district ; nor is it, so far as we are aware, peculiarly liable to 
any epidemic An intelligent medical practitioner in the parish, 
informs us that, if there are any diseases of particular frequency, 
they are of the glandular kind, and occur chiefly among the poorer 
classes ; but the number of these, from the improved state of the 
village, is on the decline. 

Hydrography* — There are few parishes so destitute of streams 
as that of Ratho. There is only one, the Gogar Burn, and that of 
small dimensions, which flows through it, forming a continuous 
line of demarcation between this and the parishes' to the east. 
There are, besides, few if any open springs ; the inhabitants for the 
most part being obliged to sink wells for their supply. Water, 
however, is easily found by digging to the depth of ten or twelve feet ; 
and when discovered, commonly contains a quantity of lime in so- 
lution. In Addiston grounds, there is one fountain of a slightly 
petrifying quality. The Union Canal is the only body of water 



RATHO. 79 

of any magnitude. Its course through the parish is about three 
miles io length. It cannot be said, however, that it adds at all 
to the beauty of the landscape ; nor with its muddy waters is it very 
suitable for domestic purposes. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — Tlie ridge of high land which we 
have already described as traversing the west of the parish, as also 
the Dalmahoy and Kaimes Hills, abound in trap (whin) rock 
of the common formation. The stone of the former is of a tough 
adhesive nature, capable of being cut out in blocks of any size, and 
wrought into any form ; that of the latter is much more brittle, 
and consequently unfit, except for the common purpose of road- 
making. The trap of the Piatt and Norton hills, forms one ex- 
tensive horizontal compact bed ; that of the other eminences ap- 
proaches much nearer to the columnar structure. 

A bed of sandstone dips under the trap formation of the Dal- 
mahoy hill at an angle of about 25^ One of clay, or, as it is po- 
pularly called, of calmstone, has been wrought upon the Ratho 
Hall property, but owing to its position, and its distance from the 
place where the trap formation is discoverable, it is difficult to say 
which of them is uppermost, or, indeed, if they are at all connect- 
ed. We are not aware that any minerals or deposits have hither- 
to been discovered in any of the rocks of which mentipn has been 
made. 

Coal, according to the report of some of the older people, was 
discovered long ago at Bennington head ; but the pit falling in 
shortly after the discovery, the existing proprietor was unable to 
prosecute the experiment, and the mining operations have not 
been resumed by any subsequent landholder. Experiments were 
also made at a remote period in the Dalmahoy grounds for the 
discovery of this precious mineral, but these, probably from want 
of perseverance, proved unsuccessful. In the Earl of Morton's 
deer park, several stones are still to be seen standing with the in- 
scription : ^' Bored for coal )8 fethoms, and hone found." 

SoiL — There is a variety of soil in the parish. A portion of 
it is clay loam upon a retentive bottom, which produces good grain 
of all descriptions, and is particularly adapted for wheat. A few 
patches here and there of the very lowest land consist of black moss. 
The greatest proportion of the land, however, is a rich dry soft loam, 
resting in the more elevated situations upon whin or claystone, and 
in the less elevated places upon gravel or sand. The whole of 
this land is well calculated for the production of potatoes and tur- 



80 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

# 

nips9'which are raised to a considerable eitent»-— the potatoes be- 
ing sent to the Edinburgh market, and the turnips consumed with 
cattle in the farm-yard during winter. 

Zoology. — The game, which is not very abundant, except in the 
Dalmahoy preserves, consists of hares, partridges, pheasants, rab- 
bits,' and a very small proportion of grouse and black game on the 
south* Foxes are not uncommon, there being a considerable 
quantity of cover about Norton and Dalmahoy Hill, which form 
occasionally places of rendezvous for the Edinburgh lovers of the 
chase. The Gogar Burn contains some good trout. The Canal 
abounds in eels and perches. No angler needs come here in the 
expectation of good sport. 

Botany. — There is no natural wQod in the parish, butaconside* 
rable quantity has been planted for the sake of shelter or ornament 
in distant or later times. All the gentlemen's seats in the neigh- 
bourhood are adorned in this way with a considerable extent of 
plantation. That about Milburn is perhaps the largest of very 
modern growth. The greatest extent of wood, however, and of 
the greatest maturity, is that which beauti6es the residence of the 
Earl of Morton. Trees, to the amount of many thousand pounds 
in value, were cut in the pleasure grounds before the accession of 
the present ;iobleman, but, notwithstanding, the woods still present 
to the eye of the spectator an outline of very dense and luxuriant 
foliage. Every variety of the common species of trees is to be 
found here and in other parts of the parish, as beech, t>ak, plane, 
ash, elm, lime, and fir. The trees, however, of which there is the 
greatest abundance, and which seem, from the luxuriance of their 
vegetation, to be best adapted to the soil, are beech and elm. 
Around Hatton there was at one time a very large quantity 
of old timber, but it is now, for the most part, destroyed, much to 
the disadvantage of the stately edifice which reposed in its shade. 
A few very fine specimens of the cedar of Lebanon, of ordinary 
dimensions, but healthy and vigorous, are to be seen at Ratho 
House. Perhaps some of the finest trees now standing in the 
parish, and consisting of planes, elms, and ashes, are those which 
surround the church and burying-ground, imparting to the resting* 
place of the dead a solemn gloom, not unsuitable to serious feeU 

The following is a list of rare botanical plants found by David 
Falconer, Esq. of Carlowrie, in Dalmahoy Moss, near the old 



IIATHO. 81 

toll-bar of Ravelrig :•— 1. Corcdorrhiza irmata^ spurless coral root, 
(Smith's English Botany, Vol. xxii. pL 1547). This plant was 
first described by Lightfoot, in his Flora Scottica, p. dLS, pi. 23, 
as growing only in one place, in a moist hanging wood ^^ on the 
south side near the head of Little Loch* Broom, on the western 
coast of Ross*shire." It has since been found in Methven Wood, 
six miles from Perth, and on the lands of Barry, near Dundee. 
It grows also under the shade of willows in the said moss. 2. Lis- 
tera cordata^ heart-leaved tway blade, (Eng. Bot. Vol. v. pi. 358.) 
3. Hahenaria viridis^ frog habenaria, ( Vol. ii. pi. 94.) 4. Utricular ia 
minor ^ lesser hooded milfoil, (Vol. iv. pi. 254.) 5. Salix repens^ 
creeping willow, (Vol. iii. p. 183.) 6. & fusca^ dwarf silky willow, 
(Vol. xxviii. pi. 1960.) 7. S. cinerea^ grey willow, (Vol. xxvii. pi. 
1897.) 8. Drosera rotundifolia, round-leaved sundew, (Vol. xiii. 
pi. 867.) The botanist will regret, while the agriculturist views 
with pleasure, the draining of the bog, where these productions are 
found, which is now in progress. A very valuable collection of 
exotics was made by the late Sir Robert Listen, which, since his 
death, has been dispersed. 

II. — Civil. History. 
Barony ofRatho. — There is no authentic notice to be found of 

the Barons or Barony of Ratho earlier than the beginning of the 
fourteenth century. It is not improbable that this was one of the 
many forfeited estates which fell into the hands of the Crown dur- 
ing the wars carried on by the different competitors for the Scot- 
tish throne, upon the death of Alexander III. For, in 1315, the 
Barony of Ratho, with other estates, was granted by Robert I. to 
the Steward of Scotland, upon his marriage with Robert's daugh- 
ter, Margery, by whom the sovereignty of this country eventually 
devolved upon the Stewart family. On tbe accession of Robert 
IL in 1371, the same barony, with its pertinents and other estates, 
were settled on the King's eldest son, as the Prince and Stewart 
of Scotland ;* and the whole estates of the Stewarts were formed 
in 1404 into a principality, with regal jurisdiction. In the middle 
of the seventeenth century, this property appears to have been in 
the possession of a Lord CoUington, as it is specially mentioned 
in the report of a commission appointed by Charles II. to take ac- 
count of the losses sustained by him during the usurpation of Crom- 
well. In 1563, Ratho estate became by purchase the property of 
Mr Alexander Fowlis, in whose favour a charter and new gift were 

• See Chalmers's Caledonia. 
EDINBURGH. F 



82 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

granted by the King as superior, with the customary legal minute'- 
ness. It is as follows : '^ Of all and sundries, the lands of Ratho^ 
with the pertinents thereof, comprehending all and haill the 
thirty*six oxengate of the town and lands of Ratho, with the man- 
sion, tower, fortalice, manor- place, houses, biggings, yards, orchards, 
doucats, loch, and meadow thereof, called Ratho Myre, lying within 
the parish of Ratho and sheriffdom of Edinburgh, and by annexation 
within the barony and sheriffdom of Renfrew, united and erect>- 
ed into a haill and free barony, called the barony of Ratho, to be 
holden of his Majesty." This property continued in the family 
of Fowlis till 1778, when Mr Archibald Christie succeeded as heir 
to Alexander Fowlis. In 1786, it was purchased by Thomas 
Macnight Crawford of Belleville, in North Carolina; and in 1818^ 
it became the possession of A. Bonar, Esq. in whose family it still 
remains. 

Hatton, — Of the Hatton property, which, till within these fifty 
years, comprehended in value and extent nearly a half of the pa- 
rish, the following particulars* have been ascertained. 

It was purchased by Allan de Lawdref or Lawder from John of 
Hatton in 1377, which purchase was ratified by the King, as Ba- 
ron of Ratho, and superior thereof. The said Allan farther added 

*.See Inventory of the Lauderdale Titles in possession of Messrs Gibson- Craigs, 
Wardlaw, and Dalziel. 

f Allan de Lawdre acted as Justiciary* Clerk on the south side of the vater of 
l^orth, for which he received from Robert the Bruce, 1309, an annual grant of L. 10 
-Scots. The Lauders appear to have possessed extensive estates in Peebles and Ber- 
wickshire, and to have been a family of very considerable eminence in the Scottish 
nation. Hugh, Earl of Rosse, and Robert de Lawdre, Justiciary of Lothian, acted 
in 1928 as ambassadors from the court of Scotland to that of England, to arrange a 
marriage between David II. and Johanna, sister to Edward III. — ^(See Index of Qiar- 
ters, 1909.)— Alexander Lauder, rector of Ratho, son of Sir Allan, was promoted to 
the See of Dunkeld, in 1440, and dying the same year, was interred in the church of 
Lauder with his ancestors. 

William Lauder, another son of Sir Allan, was first Archdeacon of Lothian and 
Bishop of Glasgow, 1408. Murdo, Duke of Albany, the R^ent, made him Chan* 
oellor in 1423. In the same year, he was nominated first commissioner for treating 
about the redemption of James L He continued to hold the offices of Bishop and 
Chancellor till his death in 1425. This Bishop laid the foundation of the vestry of 
the Cathedral church of Glasgow, and built the steeple as far as the first battlement, 
where the arms of Lauder of Hatton are still to be seen cut in several places.-*(See 
Keith's Scottish Bishops.) 

At a later period in the wars with England, the Lauders seem to have taken an 
active part ; as among other old papers of the Lauderdale family is one containing a 
gift from Jamea T. to William de Lawdre of Hattoun ( Hatton) ** of the relief of all 
bis lands lying in the shires of Edin, Berwick, and Peebles, and that gratis, for good 
done, or to be done, the said Sir George, bis father, and Sir Richard Lauder of 
Blyth, and James Lauder, his uncles, with most of their friends having been slain at 
the battle of Flodden Field, under the banner of James IV.'* The date of this is 19th 
July 1525. The same papers also mention a license granted to the said William lou- 
der to fortify his house at Hatton, and to appoint porters and other officers thereat," 
no doubt as a preparation for an expected incursion of the English consequent upon 
their victory. 



RATHO. 83 

to the estate of Hatton proper, at successive times, the properties 
of Norton,* Platts, Westhallf , Priestlands, and Northraw of Ra- 
tho. To these poafiessions Overgogar was added by the marriage 
of one of the Lauder family to Annabel Ballenden, the heiress of 
that property, in 1610. The whole of these lands came into the 
possession of the Lauderdale family by the marriage of Charles 
Maitland, third son of John Earl of Lauderdale, to Elizabeth, the 
second daughter of Mr Richard Lauder in 1653, and continued in 
that family till 1792, when the property was sold, and shortly af- 
ter was parcelled out into the original elements, of which it con- 
sisted, when it was consolidated by the purchases of Allan de 
Lawdre. 

Dalmahoy.'^The estate of Dalmahoy, which contains at present 
between a third and fourth part of the land in the parish, belonged 
anciently to the Dalmahoys of that Ilk ; the first of whom mention** 
ed in the Baronetage of Scotland, is Henry de Dalmahoy, who 
lived in the time of Alexander IIL, and was, in 1296, obliged to 
submit to Edward I. It continued, it is presumed, in their pos- 
session till the middle of the seventeenth century, when it came 
into the hands of the Dalrymples, and was purchased from them 
by James Earl of Morton, about ninety years ago. Since that 
time, it has formed part of the estates of the Earls of Morton. 

Bennington. — The proprietor of the lands of Bennington, or, 
as it was anciently called, Bondyngton, of whom mention is first 
made, is Robert de Erskine:^. A charter was granted him of L.20 
Sterling from the annual rent of the lands of Cadyon, near Ha- 
milton, in excambion for Bennington. This seems to have been 
done with a view to reward the military services of Hugh de Eglin- 
ton, as a charter was given him immediately thereafter of the said 
lands, with four merks and eight shillings from the lands of West- 
hall in the Barony of Ratho. In the middle of the seventeenth cen- 
tury, the said lands were the property of Lord CoUington. They 
have since been successively the property of families of the names 
of Durham, Cunningham, and Wilkie. 

Ashley. — This estate comprehends the following lands : — L 

* The half of Norton was disponed to Sir Allan by Hugh, Earl of Eglinton, with 
reaerration to him of ita thiilage to bis mill of Radio, and giving to Sir Allan and 
his heirs, multure free at that mill, except the payment of a fiat of meaL 

f Westhall, including a part of Craigpark and Ratho estate, was disponed by 
Thomas Cripmy of Srotstoun, in the barony of Abercorn, in 1375, to be bolden 
blench of the granter for payment of a siWer penny at the kirk of Ratho, in the time 
of high mass. 

X See Records of Ancient Charters. 



84 EDINBURGHSHIUE. 

Those formerly known by the name of Ratho Bank, consist- 
ing of three parts of the Abthan of Ratho, which at one time, 
belonged to Sir James Fleming of Ratho Byres, and another part 
of the said Abthan of Ratho, all lying within the barony of Kirk- 
liston, regality of St Andrews, and sheriffdom of Fife, which whole 
lands subsequently belonged to Sir W. A. Cunningham of Living- 
ston, Bart., and were by him disposed in 1779 to George Reid, Esq. 
of Balertio, which was succeeded by his grandson, G. Reid, Esq. 
by whom, in 1819, they were disponed to the late George Veitch, 
W. S. from whose trustees they were, in 1829, purchased by the 
present proprietor. 2. The lands of Mary lands, which originally 
formed part of the estate of Ratho. 3. The remaining portion of 
the estate of Ratho, lying on the north side of the Edinburgh and 
Glasgow Union Canal, and extending from Marylands to the pa- 
rish church, was lately added by Mr Brown. 

These lands, now comprehended in the estate of Ashley, extend 
to upwards of 250 acres, of which about ten acres are laid out in 
ornamental grounds and plantations, • 

Ratho Byres. — -This designation included anciently part of the 
property of Ashley, as well as the land which at present goes by 
the name of Ratho Byres. The oldest family at present holding 
property in the parish is that of the Wilkies of Ratho Byres ; this 
property having been in their possession for several centuries. The 
other families are comparatively of very modern standing in the 
parish. 

Old Booksy Paintings J §T. — In possession of the Earl of Morton 
is the Bible of his ancestor, the Regent, supposed to be one of the 
few copies now existing, if not the only complete one, of the ori- 
ginal Scotch Parliamentary Bible^ It is a folio volume, printed 
in a clear and beautiful type for the age, and is, like most old 
Bibles, illustrated by coarse plates, representative of the different 
subjects of Scripture history. It bears upon the title-page to have 
been printed at Edinburgh, by order of James VL in 1579, 

Adorning the same nobleman's residence are original paintings 

of the Regent Morton and Mary Queen of Scots. It deserves to 

be mentioned, as a matter of interest, that the likeness of the 

Queen is understood in the family to have been executed during 

her confinement in Lochleven Castle, for George Douglas, who 

assisted her escape. 

A few years ago, during the operations consequent upon the 

partial draining of Lochleven, a bunch of keys were discovered, 

3 



RATUO. 85 

which, from the evident antiquity of their workomnsbip, and 
from their being found in the track by which Queen Mary's es- 
cape was effected, were not unnaturally conjectured to be those 
recorded to have been thrown into the loch by her deliverer on 
that occasion. They were shortly after their discovery presented 
to the late Earl of Morton, and are now in possession of the pre* 
sent Lord, the representative of the chivalrous George Douglas. 
They are five in number, and held together by a small iron chain. 
As might be expected, they are considerably corroded by the ope* 
ration of the water during three centuries ; but from the care with 
which they are now preserved, they may last till Lochleven Castle 
becomes again the scene of a similar story.* 

Besides many original letters of great antiquity, and curious 
from the royal and noble signatures appended to them, there is 
extant among this nobleman's papers the original warrant for the 
confinement of the Queen in Lochleven Castle, signed by the 
Lords Atholl, Morton, Glencarne, Marr, J. Graham, Alex. L. 
Hume, Sanquhar, Semple, and Ochiltree. The signatures are in 
two columns, with four names in each, and from the manner in 
which the signatures are affixed, it is difficult to say whether 
Atholl or Morton had taken the lead in a matter that involved so 
great an amount of danger and responsibility. There is also in the 
same repositories an original letter from our great Reformer, John 
Knox, to the Lord of Lochleven, dated 31 st March 1570. As 
both of these documents, however, have been printed by the Banna- 
tyne Club, it is superfluous here to insert them. 

Eminent Men. — Among these we deem a place due in this Statis- 
tical Account to Joseph Mitchell, '^ the Poet of Ratho," who was 
born in this parish about the year 1684. His father was ^ mason, 
and, though in humble circumstances, with a laudable ambition not 
uncommon among the peasantry of Scotland, managed to give his 
son a university education. This was done probably with a view 
to the church, as appears from some allusions in his writings. 
The course of theological study, however, if actually commenced, 
was soon dropt, and Mitchell went to London for the purpose of 
pushing his fortune. Here he became acquainted (probably 
through the influence of Lords Lauderdale and Stair, as much as 
of his abilities,) with most of the literary characters of his day, and, 
among other distinguished persons, with Sir R. Walpole, who ap- 
pears to have given him his most cordial support ever after. Like 

* See New Sutistical Aooount, Kinross^shire, p. IS. 



86 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

most poets he was poor, and often in a state of extreme indigence, 
occasioned by his imprudence and extravagance. After a course 
marked by vicissitude, he died on the 6th of July 1738. - 

Besides several dramas published in his name, he printed by 
subscription, in 1724, two large octavo volumes of miscellaneous 
poetry. They embrace a variety of subjects, most of which are 
treated in the humorous strain, and display considerable abilities, 
though not by any means of the highest order. Not a few of them 
are representations of the poet's necessities, and are indeed peti- 
tions to the Minister of State for a place, if not for a pension. 
One of them is a petition addressed to the King, setting forth 
with considerable humour the former splendour of Ratho, with its 
present state of insignificance and decay, and soliciting the royal 
assistance to raise it to its former ideal dignity. The following 
lines, descriptive of the desolation of Ratho, may be interesting 
to the parishioners, as a specimen of the poem : 

^' Of aneieut Ratho, reared with cost and pain. 
How few and wretched monuments remain ! 
Sometimes the plough from fields adjacent tears 
The Umba of men, and armour, broke with years ; 
Sometimes a medal, aU efibced, is found, 
And mouldering urns are gathered from the ground. 
But who, ah \ who can decent honours pay> 
Or separate vulgar from imperial clay ? 
Destroying time and the devouring grave, 
Alike confound the coward and the brave 1 
Distinction's lost ! no marks of state adorn \ 
And Ratho looks like Troy a field of corn.* 

The poet in prospect sees the place of his nativity restored, and 
although his wishes have not all been gratified, nor his prophetic 
anticipations realized, the two familiar lines with which he concludes 
one of his visions are not now inapplicable. 

'* Bridges and boats for pleasure crown the scene. 
And ne*er was Ratho known so sweet and clean. 

Wmiam Wilkie.—0{ William Wilkie, «* the Scottish Homer,*' 
for some time minister of Ratho, a memoir has been written, with 
a criticism upon his works, by Dr Robert Anderson, and is en- 
grossed in his edition of the British Poets. From this authority, 
it appears that Wilkie, who was a descendant of the family of 
Ratho Byres, was born on the 5th of October 1721, at Ecklin, a 
farm in the parish of Dalmeny, which was rented by his &ther. 
Discovering at an early age, a taste for literature and for poetry in 
particular, he was sent to the University of Edinburgh, where he 
distinguished himself in the various departments of study, and be- 
came acquainted with many of those who afterwards filled a pro* 



RATHO. 87 

minent place in the literature of their country* Here he number- 
ed among his associates Principal Robertson, Mr John Home, Dr 
Smith, Dr Ferguson, and Mr Hume. While prosecuting his 
studies, his father died, leaving him the stock and unexpired lease 
of a farm at the Fisher's Tryste, and the care of three sisters. 
This event did not paralyse the energies of his mind, nor divert 
the current of his inclinations ; but he continued simultaneously 
the practice of agriculture and the pursuit of philosophical and 
theological knowledge. In 1752, he became connected with this 
parish, being appointed by the Earl of Lauderdale, assistant and 
successor to Mr Guthrie, the minister of Ratbo, who, from age and 
infirmity, had become incapable of discharging his public func- 
tions. Here he remained till 1761, when he was translated to 
the Professorship of Moral Philosophy in the University of St 
Andrews. He died in 1772, at the age of fifty*one years. 

He was a man of strong and original powers of mind, and of 
extensive acquirements in general knowledge, the fruit of long and 
vigorous application. He shone particularly in conversation, as 
appears from the character given of him by Dr Robertson : ^^ It 
seems agreed on all hands," says he, *^ that no man was equal to 
him in conversation and argument. I have heard Dr Wallace, 
the author of the Dissertation on the numbers of mankind, assert 
that nobody could cope with him. His knowledge in almost all 
things was deep and solid, and unanswerable ; his reasoning was 
plain, even to a child. In shrewdness he had no rival. Both his 
manner and thoughts were masculine in a degree peculiar to him- 
self, fir Smith says it was an observation of the late Lord Eli* 
bank, that wherever Wilkie's name was mentioned in a company, 
learned and unlearned, it was not soon dropt. Every body had 
much to say in regard to him/^* 

The principal character in which he is now known to the lite- 
rary world is that of a poet, and his fame in that character is not 
widely diffused. His chief work is an Epic poem in imitation of 
Homer, entitled the Epigonaid, founded upon the story of the 




procured him the name of '< the potatoe minister." It is mentioned among bis many 
peeuliaridca, that he slept with an immoderate quantity of bed-clothes. Being one 
day on a visit to a farmer, a relation of his own, be consented, at bis request, to stay 
all night, but begged to have plenty of blankets. His female friends in the family 
collected twenty-four pairs, and put them on bis bed. When asked in the morning 
if he had had abundance of bed-clothes, he answered that be had just enough, and 
Jiad slept well. 



g8 EDINBUR(JHSHiR&. 

seige of Thebes^' related in the Fourth Book of the Iliad. We are* 
told by the author of the last Statistical Account, that he left many 
valuable manuscripts, both scientific and miscellaneous, none of 
which that we are aware have been published since that time. 

Sir Robert Liston. — The late Sir Robert Listen, K. G. C. R 
who resided constantly for the last fifteen years of his life at Milburn 
in this parish, was born at Overton, in the parish of Kirkliston, 
in the year 1742. He studied originally for the church, but 
had his attention diverted from it to the civil service of his 
country, while a tutor in the family of Hugh Elliot, Esq. He 
acted at intervals, from 1774 to 1821, either as Secretary of 
Legation, or as Ambassador from this kingdom at the courts of 
Munich, Berlin, Spain, Sweden, the United States, Holland, and 
the Ottoman Porte ; in all of which situations he displayed great 
diplomatic wisdom and address. He. retired finally upon a peOr 
sion in 1821, and took up his residence on his estate of Milburn, 
which he had previously purchased. Here he lived during the 
remainder of his days, iipproving and beautifying his property, and 
taking an active part in all the public concerns of the parbh* 
His general intelligence, courtesy, and affability made his society 
be courted by the high ; so that, besides the intercourse which he 
maintained with the neighbouring gentry, scarcely a foreigner of 
any distinction came to the metropolis who did not pay him a visit 
at Milburn. His public spirit and zeal for originating and for«> 
warding general improvements, secured him the regard of the 
working classes^ while the generosity and enlarged benevolence of 
his disposition endeared him to the poor of his neighborhood. 
In 1832 he was seized with an affection of the head, which, while 
it appeared not to affect his judgment, or his bodily powers^ de- 
prived him almost completely of the memory of words. Though 
at one time capable of speaking with comparative ease and cor- 
rectness, ten different languages, he appeared henceforth to have 
lost them all ; and when he attempted to speak, after the first few 
words of English, his speech was only a confused jumble of sounds, 
which belonged to no language. In this state he continued for 
four years, enjoying a tolerable degree of health ; and, so far as 
he could make himself understood, giving directions chiefly by 
natural signs about improvements upon his estate, and the roads 
of the parish, which he had long superintended, till 1836. He 
died the same year at the advanced age of ninety*four, and was 
interred in the old church-yard of Gogar. The parishioners of 



RATHO. 89 

Hatho, in testimony of their regard for his worthy and their respect 
for his memory, solicited permission to accompany his remains to 
the sepulchre, but the merited compliment, for private reasons, 
was declined. 

Sir William Fettes, — Sir William Fettes, who died a few years 
ago, leaving bis immense fortune for the erection of an educa- 
tional establishment, to be called the Fettes Institution, was an 
heritor of the parish, and had his country house in it* 

Land-owners. — The land of this parish is now very mu.ch sub- 
divided. The following is a list of the proprietors, with the names 
of their estates, arranged in the order of their relative magnitude. 
The Earl of Morton, holding the lands of Dalmahoy and Addis* 
ton; William Wilkie, Esq* ofBonnington; William Davidson, Esq. 
of Hatton ; theHeirs of the late John Bonar, Esq.,of Ratho; Alexander 
Berwick, Esq. of Norton ; William Hill, Esq. of Hillwood and Ra- 
the Hall ; William H. Brown, Esq. of Ashley ; William L. Whyte, 
Esq. of Kellerstane ; Mrs Listen* of Milbum ; the Heirs of Sir 
William Fettes ; Edward Lothian, Esq. of Overgogar ; Sir Alex- 
ander Gibson Maitland ; James Sinclair, Esq. of Oaigpark ; Rev# 
Daniel Wilkie of Ratho Byres; Sir James Gibson Craig; Lord 
Meadowbank ; David Wardlaw, ^Esq. of Gogar Mount ; James 
M. Melville, Esq. 

Parochial Registers. — These are neither of very old date, nor 
very complete from the period of their commencement. They 
consist of seven volumes, six of which are in small folio, and one in 
quarto ; which last has the appearance of a mere scroll of the 
minutes of session. Two of the volumes form a register of bap- 
tisms and marriages, respectively from 1738 and 1741, to the pre- 
sent time. The rest contain the proceedings of the kirk-session 
in the administration of the discipline of the church. Their earli- 
est entry bears the date of 1693, four years posterior to the Re- 
volution. There is no record from 1721 to 1738^ nor from 1760 
to 1802. It appears from the earlier part of these records, that 
the catalogue of offences which was taken cognizance of, and made 
the subject of judicial procedure, wa£ much greater than now. Id 
some respects, a return to the old methods of procedure would be 
advantageous, in others the reverse. 

Slander and neglect of church ordinances ap|>ear not unfre- 
quently, as the subjects of investigation and correction. To re- 
medy the latter, a committee seems at times to have been ap- 
pointed, called the Searckersj whose duty it was to visit, during 



90 EDINBURQHSHIRB. 

the time of divine service, the different parts of the parish where 
the neglect prevailed, to enter the houses of the inhabitants, to 
ascertain who were absent from divine service, with the causes of 
their absence, and to report to the next meeting; of session; The 
report thus given in is termed *' the Searchers' Report." A simi- 
lar measure might not be without its advantages in many parishes 
at the present time. 

Antiquities. — Eneampments.'^The South Piatt hill is the site 
of an ancient encampment. The remains of it were to be seen 
about thirty years ago, when the ground was turned up, and the 
stones appropriated for building the present fences upon the Ra- 
tho Hall property. The camp, as described in a letter by Geoige 
Reid, Esq. at that time proprietor of the grounds of which it formed 
a part, occupied about an acre of ground on the summit of the emi* 
nence, and was surrounded with a ditch and rampart, formed with 
large stones mixed with black earth. There were also two circular 
enclosures, one on the east, the other on the west side of the main 
camp, of from 90 to 40 feet diameter, surroi|pded in like maok 
ner with a ranftpart of large blocks and black earth, and paved in 
the area with flags of freestone, which last must have been brought 
from a distance. 

On the removal of the rubbish, the bones of some persons of 
large dimensions were discovered, all of which were enclosed in 
coffins formed with flags of freestone. One of these stones now 
forms a seat on the top of the hill, at the corner of the wood. 
Some large beads of a blue and yellow colour also were discover- 
ed ; none of which are known to have been preserved. 

At the time the improvements upon the hill were going on, a 
tradition existed of a woman's having been burnt here for witch- 
craft. This led to an examination of the spot specified as the 
scene of the superstitious execution, when a quantity of burnt ashes 
were found quite entire. 

It is difficult arriving at any thing like a satisfactory solution of 
the nature of this and similar positions throughout the country, es- 
pecially when not only history is silent in regard to the events there 
transacted, but when the demolition of the works has been conduct- 
ed more with a view to immediate agricultural improvement than 
to the furtherance of scientific inquiry. We know from the re- 
mains of bodies found in the plains to the north, about Newbridge 
and Gogar Camp, (Henley), that these fields were the scene of 
not a few severe struggles, generally supposed to have been with 



nATHO. 91 

the Norwegians ; and this rising-ground may not improbably have 
been seized by them as a place of some strength, on their advance 
into the country after these engagements. This supposition is ren- 
dered all the more likely as the coffins found in Gogar Camp and on 
the Piatt hill were of similar construction, and in both cases resem- 
bled those found at Largs, in Ayrshire, where it is historically 
known that the Norsemen buried their dead, slain in an unsuccess- 
ful engagement with the Scots under Alexander III. The quan- 
tity of Mack earth found on the hill, which must either have been 
the result of the decomposition of many dead bodies, or, what is 
perhaps as probable, the remains of the ashes of their camp-fires, 
as well as the substantial way in which the inclosures to the east 
and west of the camp were executed, apparently for increasing the 
strength of the works, shew that the position had been occupied 
for a considerable time. 

Kaime^ HilL — The Kaimes' Hill, which is in view of this post, 
is the site of another encampment of similar construction, and ap- 
parently of the same era. Of this encampment the remains are 
visible. The space occupied by it is about three acres in extent, and 
includes the summit, with a considerable partof the eastern declivity. 
The area of the camp is surrounded by a double fosse and rampart, 
founded in one place with stones and black earth, except on the 
north side where the rock is so precipitous as to form of itself a 
sufficient defence. The access to the camp is from the east, two 
large stones still marking what was the place of entrance. On the 
very summit of the hill there is a cairn of stones, concave in the 
centre, which is covered with turf greener than the ground around 
it Toward the north-east, in a small valley immediately under 
the brow of the hill, there are to be seen, at least, ten circles form-* 
ed with stones indented or laid in the ground. These, which are 
all within the line of the defences, and in the most sheltered place 
of the encampment, are not improbably the remains of huts raised 
for the purpose of accommodating the sick and wounded during 
the period of the hill's occupation. At their extremity, is still a 
spring, which was, no doubt, of use to the army generally, and 
might, in conjunction with the shelteredness of the position, affi)rd 
a strong motive for such erections in this particular spot. The ap- 
pearance of the ground in some ofthesecircles, afewof thestones 
being covered with a rich moss, and bearing some stalks of stunt- 
ed nettles, render it possible that some bodies may be here inter- 
red. It might contribute to the advancement of antiquarian lore. 



92 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

if some of these circles were dug up and examined. The situa- 
tion of this encampment, by whomsoever occupied, must have been 
a place of considerable strength, and of great utility, commanding, 
as it does, an extensive prospect on all sides, and consequently, 
not liable to the danger of sudden surprise. 

Old ChapeL — In the memory of some now living, a part of a 
Gothic arch, supposed to be the remains of a chapel, was stand* 
ing at Long Dalmahoy. A part of the ground in the immediate 
neighbourhood is of so black and deep a mould, that it is consi- 
dered as the site of the burying-ground attached to the same 
chapel. 

Jouga, — This consists of an iron collar attached to a chain, the 
extremity of which was fixed in the wall of a building in the centre 
of the village. This collar was, it is supposed, in feudal times, 
put upon the necks of criminals, who were thus kept standing in a 
pillory as a punishment for petty delinquencies. It would not be 
necessary in such cases, we presupe, to attach to the prisoner any 
label descriptive of his crime. In a small country village the crime 
and the cause of punishment would in a very short time be su6S- 
ciently public. Possibly, however, for the benefit of the casual 
passenger, the plan of the Highland laird might be sometimes 
adopted, who adjudged an individual for stealing turnips to stand 
at the church-door with a large turnip fixed to his button-hole.* 
The jougs are now in the possession of James Craig, Esq. Lud- 
gate Lodge, Ratho. 

Mansion Houses. — The chief of these are Hatton House, a fine 
old baronial building, some of which is of very ancient date ; Dal- 
mahoy House, which was built about 130 years ago, but has sub- 
sequently received additions by different occupants ; Ratho House, 
a very splendid building in the Grecian style, erected by the late 
John Bonar, Esq. ; Milburn Tower, built by the late Sir R. Lis- 
ten ; Bennington House, built in 1622; Norton, now finished, the 
property of Alexander Berwick, Esq. Besides these, most of the 
mansion houses of the different proprietors are tasteful and ele- 
gant in their appearance. 

III. — Population. 
There are no means of ascertaining the population of the parish 
at any very remote period. 

* Since writing the above, we find that the jougs were originally attached to the 
diurcbi and were used in eases of ecclesiastical discipline. 



KATHO. 93 

In 1755, tbe return made to Dr Webster gave, - • 080 

1792, . - .... 825 

1811, - - - . - - 1008 

1821, - - - - - - 1444 

1831, . - - . ^ - - 1314 
1838, from a turrej made for this Account by Mi^ Thomas Wallace, 

a member of Session, .... 1454 

Of these 700 are males, 754 females. 

It appears from the above statements, that the population of the 
parish has fluctuated considerably between different periods. Since 
the year in which the last Statistical Account was compiled, till the 
last Government census, an interval of thirty-nine years, there wasan 
increase of 489 ; and from 1831 to 1888, there has been an addition 
of 149. The former increase is to be ascribed to three causes, — 
the improvement in the agriculture of the parish, and the additional 
number of hands required for its operations ; the cutting of the 
Canal, which has increased the facility of communication between 
this parish and the surrounding country, and the opening up of some 
stone quarries in the neighbourhood of the village. The latter 
increase, from 1631 to the present time, is to be ascribed to the 
continued operation of the same causes, together with the greater 
subdivision of the land in the parish, the building of new mansions 
by the proprietors, and the formation of establishments in con- 
nection with them. It is proper to mention that, in the census 
taken for 1838, two families are included, who had rented during 
summer the unoccupied mansions of two of the heritors. 

Of the population above specified there are 

In the village of Ratho, . . . 539 

of Bonniogton, • . 100 

country parts, . . . 815 

Making in all, . 1454 

The number of persons under 15 years is 560 

between 15 and dO, 986 

ao 50, . ao9 

50 70, 168 
70 and upwards, 81 

1454 

The average number of marriages for the last seven years is, . 12f 

The raster is so imperfect as not to furnish a proper average on the head of 
births ; and no sccount is kept of funerals. 

The number of bachelors and widowers upwards of 50 years of age is, 23 

That of unmarried women upwards of 45 is, • 17 

Number of fiunflics in 1831 amounted to . . • 273 

chiefly employed in agriculture, • . 184 

trade, manufactures, and handicraft, 46 

There are 3 insane persons, one of whom is kept by the parish 
in an asylum in Edinburgh ; 1 person deaf and dumb ; and 1 so 
blind as not to be able to gain a livelihood. The parish con- 
tains I nobleman, and 16 individuals in all, who hold land to the 
value of L.50 Sterling a-year and upwards. 



94 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Habits and Character of the People, — The habits of the peo- 
ple are cleanly rather than otherwise, and there is an increas- 
ing taste among them for flower-plots, shrubs, and other means 
of beautifying the exterior of their cottages. The food of the 
peasantry is generally vegetable and farinaceous, butcher-meat 
being used but occasionally, in which case it is boiled with broth 
for dinner. Enjoying few of the luxuries of life, the people are in 
general contented, as they are industrious, honest in their dealings, 
civil, respectful, and obliging in their manners. The cutting of 
the Canal had atone time a very injurious effect upon the charac- 
ter of the population, from the scenes of riot and dissipation among 
the Irish labourers, of which the village was the centre, and after 
the work was Bnished, from the number of Irish who took up their 
residence it. But time has produced a marked change to the 
better. Most of the families who at first settled have departed, 
and those that remain have come under the humanizing influence 
of good neighbourhood and Protestant institutions. Still, however, 
there is room for improvement with not^a few on the score of in- 
teiqperance, which is the crying evil among the Scottish population* 

IV. — Industry. 
The parish of Ratho may be regarded as entirely agricultural, 

there being only a few families who are not either directly or in- 
directly dependent for their subsistence upon the cultivation of the 
soil. 

The following may be regarded as a close approximation to 
truth in reference to the condition of the land. 

Number of acres, standard imperial measure, which are either cultivated or 

occasionally in tillage, .... 4978 

The number of acres which remain constantly in pasture, . 444 

Number under wood, . . ' . 896 

In aU, 5818 

Rent of Land. — The rent of land varies from ISs. to L. 4, 10s. 
and will amount on an average to L. 2, 12s. per Scotch acre. Rents, 
it may be remarked, have fallen considerably since 1808, the period 
when land was at its height, and have, besides, been generally con- 
verted from money into grain within the last fifteen or twenty 
years. Grazing is at the rate of L. 5 for a cow from Whitsunday 
to Martinmas ; 5d. per week, or lOs. lOd. for the half year, is 
about the price required for pasturing a full-grown sheep, 

B4ite of Labour. — The rate of labour for day labourers is 10s. 
in summer, and 9s. in winter ; females, at out^door work, receive 
Id. an hour, or lOd. a-day ; children from 6d. to 8d. a-day ; farm- 

4 



• RATHO* 95 

servants who are hired by the year receive their wages partly in 
kind and partly in money. They have for the year 6 bolls, 2 Br- 
lots of meal, 3 bolls of potatoes, the carriage of 4 carts of coals, 
and Lte 16 in money. These different items, with their house, may 
be considered equal in value to L. 26 a-year. The wages of arti- 
sans are as follows : masons, 3s. a-day ; wrights, 2s. 6d. ; slaters, 
4s. ; blacksmiths, from 2s. 6d. to 3s. per day. The price of a sub- 
stantial full mounted cart is L. 10; of a wooden plough, L. 2, 10s. ; 
a pair of single wooden harrows, L. 2, 1 Os. ; an iron plough, L. 3, 1 Os. ; 
a pair of iron harrows, L. 3, lOs. 

Breed of Cattle. — There are few cattle bred in the parish, but 
those which are reared are a cross between the short-homed and 
the Ayrshire ; this species being considered by many to answer best 
both for feeding and dairy purposes. 

Husbandry. — The rotation followed on the clay loam is, 1. 
fallow, with fifteen tons of manure; 2. wheat; 3. clover and 
rye-grass, pastured either with sheep or cattle for one or two years, 
or made hay the first year, and in this case broken up and made 
oats as after the two years pasture. The rotation adopted on the 
dry soft loam is, 1. potatoes or turnips after the soil is properly 
pulverized and quickens gathered, and thirty tons of good stable 
manure applied to the former, and twenty tons of police manure to 
the latter. 2. Wheat or barley; 3. clover and rye-grass pas- 
tured or made into hay, as on the clay loam ; and 4. oats, which 
finishes the rotation. 

/>ratniii^.— The system of draining formerly pursued was that 
of cross drains. These were all cut four feet deep, and a foot wide 
at the bottom, and filled with large stones. This system has now, 
however, given place entirely to that of furrow drains, which are cut 
two and a-half feet deep, and filled with fourteen inches of small 
stones, broken so as to pass through a four-inch ring. In some in- 
stances, tiles are made use of in the furrow drains, twenty-two inches 
deep, with a layer of gravel above. The leading drains in both 
cases are from three to four feet deep, with a large tile in the bot- 
tom, and one foot of small stones on the top. In such parts of the 
land as have been furrow-drained, the subsoil plough has been used 
with great advantage, and seems to make a complete change upon 
a spongy damp soil. 

Leases* — The general duration of leases is nineteen years; 
which may be considered short when an expensive drainage has 
taken place at the expense of the farmer. 



96 EDINBUKOHSUIRE. 

Farm BuUdinffs, — The farm buildiugs and enclosures through- 
out the parish are good, with the exception of the servants' houses, 
which generally, with a stinted economy, neither fiavourable to com- 
fort or delicate feeling, have only a single apartment for the accom- 
modation of a family. Most of the farm steadings are built of 
whinstone and edged with freestone. In two instances steam- 
engines have been erected for thrashing out the grain. These 
may be considered as an improvement in as much as, while they 
save the horses, they afford the farmer the use of a constant and 
unwearied power. Were the adoption of these becoming general, 
however, they would give to the country all the appearance of a 
manufacturing district, with its red chimney stalks and smoky at- 
mosphere. As lovers of the country, and as desirous that it may 
long retain its distinctive properties, we deprecate their farther in- 
troduction. 

Improvements. — Since the period of the last Statistical Account 
a very great improvement has taken place upon the surface of the 
parish. A considerable quantity of land, comprehending chiefly 
Ratho and Gogar moors, which were then in a state of nature, have 
been reclaimed and brought under the plough. Much has been 
done, too, in the way of draining on several properties, in some cases 
by the owner, in others by the tenant. The facility with which 
manure is naw procured from Edinburgh by the Canal has contri- 
buted in no small degree to the fertility of the soil. One of the 
consequences resulting from this facility is, that three times the 
amount of green crop is now raised, compared with what was for- 
merlv. 

There is here a distillery connected with the Ratho Hall pro- 
perty, and rented at present by the Messrs Buchan. It employs 
in superintendence and work eleven individuals. The quantity of 
whisky distilled is from 800 to 1000 gallons in the period, or about 
42,000 gallons in the year. The spirit made here is much esteem- 
ed by competent judges. 

Quarries. — Of these there are four of whin and one of sandstone. 
Oiie of the former only is regularly wrought. On an average it 
keeps ten persons employed throughout the year. 

Produce.^ — The average produce of wheat per Scotch acre is con- 
sidered to be 7^ bolls, or 30 bushels at 6s. 6d. per bushel, barley 
6^ bolls, or 39 bushels at 3s. 4d. ; oats 8 bolls, or 48 bushels at 
2s. lOd. ; potatoes, 30 bolls, equal to 6 tons, at L.2, ds. per ton ; 

* The writer is indebted for his information on the subject of Agriculture to Mr 
John Melvin, an eitensive and most successful former in the parish. 



RATHO. 97 



turnips, 25 tons, at 6s« 4|d. per ton ; hay, 160 stone, at Sd. per 
stone. 



546 Scotch acres of wheat at L. 9. Ids. per acre. 



324 do. 


of barley at L. 6. 10s. 


869 do. . 


of oats at 1^. 6, 16s. 


424 do. 


of hay at L. 6, 6$. 8d: 


424 do. 


of potatoes at L. 13, 10s. 


297 do. 


of turnips at L. 8, 


1265 do. 


of pasture at 1. 2, 12s. 


370 do. 


of permanent pasture at 15s. 


Gardens and orchardsi 


Produce of quarriesj 


t • • 



L. 5878 10 





2106 





5909 4 





. 2261 6 


8 


5754 





2876 





. 3289 





277 10 





300 





500 





L. 28.146 10 


"i 



Total yearly value of raw produce raised, 

V, — Parochial Economy. 

Markets. — The parish has no market-town within its bounds, 
nor is its tranquillity disturbed by any periodical fairs. At one 
time it was the seat of a regular cattle-market, but that has been 
discontinued for a considerable period. The nearest outlet for the 
agricultural produce of the district is Edinburgh, which is seven 
miles and a-half distant from the church. 

Villages. — The principal village in the parish is Ratho. It is 
pleasantly situated upon a sloping declivity on the east side of the 
ridge which we have described as traversihg the parish. It con- 
sists of a single street, with two rows of houses running from west 
to east, and bending at a right angle northward to the Union Ca- 
nal. The latter'part of this street was anciently called the Lud Gate 
or Lord's Gate, from its forming the way of access to the House 
of God. The houses are chiefly one storey in height ; they are built 
of whinstone from the quarries in the neighbourhood, with free- 
stone lintels, and some are roofed with tiles, and others with slates. 
The village has been much extended and improved of late years by 
the erection of a number of neat cottages, and by the formation of 
dry drains and other alterations upon the street A few very old huts 
on the south side, which still connect the present village with the 
olden time, are now in process of demolition, and their place will no 
doubt in time be supplied by others of more commodious structure. 

The only other village now belonging to the parish is that of 
Bennington, situated about a mile and a-half west of Ratho, on 
the table-land of the same ridge. It consists of about twenty small 
thatched houses, inhabited entirely by the labourers and farm-ser- 
vants employed upon the estate of Bennington. The former Sta- 
tistical Account mentions also the village of Norton, of which no- 
thing now remains but four cot-houses. 

Means of CWiTWMnicaft'oa.— The village and parish of Ratho 

EDINBURGH . . G 



98 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

have the advantage of a post*office, from which there are two de- 
liveries of letters every lawful day. The village being off the line 
of the mail-coaches, the bag is carried by a runner to the turnpike, 
and then delivered to the mail. The salary of the postmaster is 
L. 10 a-year. Individuals travelling to the east or west may have 
the benefit of all the Edinburgh and Glasgow stage-coaches, which 
run upon the Uphall and Calder roads. The former of these, 
which is the chief thoroughfare between the two capitals of Scot- 
land, touches the parish on the north for about a quarter of a mile ; 
the latter divides it for a mile and a half from Addiston Bridge 
to Burnwynd. 

The Uiiion Canal, however, from its vicinity to the village, is 
of the greatest advantage to the people. The conception of this 
undertaking was first suggested by the successful completion of 
the Forth and Clyde Canal, and was executed as a means at once 
of facilitating the transport of heavy goods between Glasgow and 
Edinburgh, and of opening up the coal districts to the west for the 
benefit of the capital. It was begun in 1818 and finished in 1822, 
at an expense of nearly L. 400,000. 

This work, originating in a laudable spirit of enterprise, has not 
realized the sanguine hopes of its projectors, and, like many other 
improvements, it has hitherto been beneficial chiefly to the public 
At present, besides the conveyance of manufactures, it serves as 
a channel for the transport of manure from Edinburgh to the 
grounds upon its banks, and of coal in return from the pits in lan-^ 
lithgow and Stirlingshire. In these respects it has contributed 
materially to the improved cultivation of the country, and to the 
comfort in winter of the inhabitants of Edinburgh. For four 
years past, a class of swift boats has been established upon it for 
the special conveyance of passengers, which travel at the rate of 
eight or nine miles an hour. Of these there are three each day 
in summer, leaving Port Hopetoun and Port Dundas, at the hours 
of six, nine, and twelve. Three of the many bridges over this 
line of water are in this parish ; and there are two over the Gogar 
Bum, one at Addiston, the other at Burnwynd. 

Hallway. — The line of the proposed railway between Edinburgh 
and Glasgow intersects the north-east side of the parish, and when 
formed, will afford an additional means of communication. The 
parish roads are about fourteen miles in length, and are maintained 
by an assessment upon the land of so much per ploughgate. They 
have been for many years in a remarkably good state. The pa. 
rish is indebted for their superiority to the late Sir B. Listen, 



RATHO. 99 

who, besides superintending the management of them, contributed 
most liberally beyond his legal proportion^ to the expense of their 
improvement. 

There is, besides the means of communication already specified, 
a carrier from Ratho to Edinburgh twice a-week, on Tuesdays 
and Fridays. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The Church of Ratho is said to have bpen 
anciently dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and that this was the case, 
is confirmed by the fact, that a fountain in the immediate neighbour- 
hood of the church still bears the name of the Lady's Well. Ratho 
was then a rectory, of which the patronage appears to have be- 
longed to the lords of the manor. The living was early of con- 
siderable value, being rated in the ancient taxation at seventy 
merks. In 1444, when the College Kirk of Corstorphine was 
founded by the donation and mortification of Sir John Forrester 
of Corstorphine, the teinds and patronage of Ratho were made 
over to him by the Archbishop of St Andrews, as directed by a 
popish bull. By this means four prebendal stalls were endowed 
in connection with the College Kirk,* which are called in ancient 
documents half Dalmahoy, half Hatton, half Bennington, half 
Piatt, thus intimating their connection with this parish as the 
source of their revenue. The teinds of Ratho being thus in a 
great measure abstracted, it sunk, we presume, from the dignity 
of a rectory into a mere curacy. In 1617, upon the disjunction 
of the College Kirk from the Abbacy of Holyrood, with which it 
had been previously connected, and its erection into a separate 
institution, called the Parsonage and Vicarage of Corstorphine, 
the prebends to which we have alluded were appropriated for a 
maintenance to the ministers thereof, with the reservation of L.40 
Scots, as a stipend to the minister of Ratho. In 1633, by an 
Act of Charles L, the ecclesiastical institutions of Corstorphine 
were again remodelled, and the four prebends were annexed to 
the College Kirk as before. The greater part of the teinds of 
Ratho continued to be thus applied, in all likelihood, till the Re- 
volution, when the Presbyterian form of church government was 
finally re-established, and Ratho became a distinct parish, instead 
of being, as it had been during the reigns of Popery and Episco- 
pacy, a mere appendage to the ecclesiastical institutions of Cor- 
storphine. 

* See Caledonia, and the old documents of the Lauderdale Family in the hftnds of 
Oibton-Craigs, Wardlav, and Daliel, W. S. 



100 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

The patronage and the haill teinds of the parish of Ratho, 
which had till 1671 been the property of the Forresters of Corstor- 
phine, were then, with the exception of those of Dalmahoy and 
Bennington, disponed by James Lord Forrester to Charles Mait- 
land of Hatton. The patronage still remains in connection with 
the estate of Hatton, but is at present vested in four trustees. 

The present church is as conveniently situated as it possibly 
could be for the great majority of the population. It stands to the 
north of the village, on the opposite side of the Canal, in a repos- 
ing situation, and is surrounded by trees of ancient growth, through 
the embowering foliage of which it is dimly seen by the casual 
passenger. When it was built is uncertain, unless it was at the 
satne time with the Dalmahoy isle, which is apparently of similar 
antiquity, and bears the date of 1683. It partook originally of 
the form common to the tasteless country churches of Scotland, 
being a long narrow bam-like building, with the pulpit in the 
centre, and recesses on either side, and in front of it, for the families 
of the principal heritors. A few years ago, during the minis- 
try of the Rev. Dr Henderson of Glasgow, an addition was made 
to the south side of it, at an expense of L. 500 or L. 600, which, 
besides increasing the accommodation considerably, has improved 
most materially the external and internal appearance of the build- 
ing. The church is now somewhat in the form of a cross ; and 
affords ample accommodation for the population, being seated for 
about 700. The seats are allocated to the different heritors 
according to their valued rents, and by them subdivided among 
their tenants and dependents. It ought to be remarked, that the 
new part, as it was built not by a legal assessment upon the whole 
heritors, but by the subscriptions of a few, belongs to the subscrib- 
ers and to those others who had seats upon its site. None of the 
sittings are let ; those which are required ibr the tenantry of the 
different proprietors in the parish being occupied without rent by 
the villagers. 

The church is a very plesant one in summer, bbt, from the great 
number of public and private doors which it contains, it is intole- 
rably cold in winter. An attempt was made to remedy this by a 
stove ; but, from the defective principle upon which it is construct- 
ed, it has failed to produce the desired effect. The church-yard 
requires an addition to its extent, and some alterations, which would 
improve materially the enclosure of the sanctuary. 

Belonging to the church are two benefactions by Richard Lord 



RATHO. 101 

Maitland, a former proprietor, of Hatton. The one consists of 
two communion cups of massive silver, bearing this inscription : 
'^ Given by Richard Lord Maitland in 1684, to the service of God, 
for the church of Rutha." The other consists of a baptismal plate 
and ewer, with the Lauderdale arms, and the inscription, ^< For 
the service of God, given by Richard Lord Maitland, to the pa- 
rish church of Ratho, anno 1685."* 

Manse and Glebe. — The present manse, which is a plain but com- 
modious structure, is situated in the Kirktown hard by the church. 
It was built in 1803^ during the ministry of the late Dr Duncan, 
whose name is kept in grateful remembrance by the people. Since 
the time of its erection, no alterations of any consequence have 
been made upon it. The offices belonging to the old manse still 
remain, and are fast hastening to decay. 

The glebe consists of two separate portions of land. The one 
of these, which is of excellent quality, is about 3^ acres Scotch, 
exclusive of the garden, and the site of the manse and offices ; the 
latter, or grass glebe, which contains about 4 acres, is a piece of 
swampy mossy soil, of little co'mparative value. Together, they 
are worth about L. 16 or L. 18. The stipend is 17 chalders of 
grain, half meal, half barley, with the exception of about 6 bolls, 
3 firlots, 2 pecks, 2 lippies, of wheat, and 6 bolls, 1 firlot, 3 pecks, 
3 lippies of oats. It is paid by the highest fiars of the county, and 
on an average of the last five years may be stated in money at 
L. 250, exclusive of L. 8^ 68. 8d. for communion elements. 

There is no place of worship in- the parish save the parish 
church. Six-sevenths of the population belong to the Establish-' 
raent. There are 1286 individuals in connection with the Esta- 
blished Church. Those belonging to other denominations amount 
in all to 168 persons. Of these, 132 are Dissenters or Seceders, 
chiefly in connection with the United Secession, and worshipping 
at East Calder, Slateford, or Balerno; 17, chiefly the family 
of the Earl of Morton, are Episcopalians; and 19 are Roman Ca- 
tholics, or those belonging to the Establishment, the number of 

* It appears from the session records, that these cups were carried off by the Ear] 
of Lauderdale to his estnte in the south, at the period of the Revolution ; from what 
cause does not appear, probably for their safe custody in these troublous times. One 
of the first minutes of the kirk-session on record contains the appointment of a com- 
mittee fur the recovery of the same. The committee, it appears, waited first upon Sir 
John nalmahoy of that Ilk, to request his assistance in procuring their restoration, 
but he being in prison could give them no aid. A deputation of two is forthwith 
sent to Lauder to wait upon Lord Maitland, from whom, upon gi-auting a receipt, 
they received the utensils, and since that time they have remained in the custody of 
the ministers and kirk-scssion. 



102 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

communicants on an average of the winter and summer commu- 
nionsy is 420. 

Divine service is not upon the whole so uniformly well attended as 
might be expected from the number of persons in communion with 
the church, and professing adherence to it The state of the weather 
makes a much greater alteration in the attendance, than could be 
anticipated among a hardy agricultural peasantry, whose occu- 
pation habituates them to all manner of exposure. The practice 
of half-day attendance, which prevails among some of the better 
classes, has undoubtedly a most detrimental effect upon those who 
more immediately come under the influence of their example. 

Since the institution of the General Assembly's four schemes, 
the religious contributions of the people have been chiefly directed 
into these channels. There is a collection made once in the year, 
for each of these, and the average amount of the whole may be 
about L. 14. The regular weekly collections for the poor have, 
on an average of three years, amounted annually to L. 44, 12s. 
These, however, it is to be remarked, are daily on the decrease. 

Education. — There are, at present, 3 schools connected with 
the parish, all of which are in the village of Ratho. The chief of 
these is the parish school, which has for years been most efficient- 
ly taught by Mr James Gourlay. There attend it, upon an ave- 
rage through the yeav, about 85 scholars. The instruction im- 
parted comprehends the common branches of reading, writing, and 
arithmetic, English grammar, and geography, with the higher 
branches of book-keeping, French, Latin, and Greek, and mathe- 
matics, when required. The fees, as fixed by the heritors and 
kirk-session, are as follows : 2s. 6d. per quarter for English reading ; 
writing, 3s. 6d. ; arithmetic, 4s. 6d. ; Latin, 7s. 6d. ;' Greek, 9s. 6d, ; 
French, 10s. 6d. The higher charge always comprehends the 
lower branches of instruction. For English grammar and geogra- 
phy no additional charge is made. The schoolmaster has the 
legal accommodation of house and garden ; his salary is L. 34^ 4s. 
4^. ; the school-fees should amount to L. 40. Besides this, he 
may receive L. 9, 10s. a-year from his office as session-clerk, and 
the fees connected with it. 

The other two schools are taught by females, and are chiefly 
to be considered as sewing-schools ; the reading and writing taught 
in them, being chiefly intended to keep up the remembrance of 
what has already been acquired in the parish school. One of these 
IS supported partly by yearly subscriptions, which vary in amount, 



RATHO. 103 

and partly by fees ; the other by fees entirely. The number of 
children attending each is 22 ; the fee per quarter, 2s. 6d. 

Besides the week day-schools, there are also 3 Sabbath schools 
in operation in the different parts of the parish, attended in all by 
about 100 children. One of these is in Ratho, another in Long 
Dalmahoy, and a third in Bennington. The latter two have been 
instituted but lately, and promise to be of considerable advantage 
in the diffusion of religious knowledge and pious feeling. 

From the statement made of the numbers attending the schools 
in the parish, that number being about 129, it may be thought that 
there is a considerable deBciency in this respect, considering the 
population under fifteen years of age. In explanation of this, 
however, it must be mentioned, that not a few in the out- 
skirts of the parish attend private schools in the adjoining pa- 
rishes, which are more contiguous to their respective residences. 
The only part of the parish that is at all inconveniently situated, as 
regards either school or church, is Long Dalmahoy, but the amount 
of the population is too small to warrant any separate erection. The 
distance, besides, is not extreme, being about two miles and a half 
by the nearest way of access. 

The people, on the whole, in common with the inhabitants of 
Scotland, seem to be duly alive to the benefits of education, and 
many of them struggle hard in order to secure it for their children. 
With the wages of a labouring population, however, the difficulty 
is great, and many of them are compelled to rest satisfied with a 
much smaller amount of it than their sense of its importance 
would dictate. It is much to be desired that a more ample re- 
muneration were allotted to the schoolmasters in the shape of sa- 
lary, and that the fees, low as they are, were lower still. 

Four pounds per annum are, according to the existing arrangement, 
allowed by the heritors for the education of eight poor children. 

Library. — There is a library in the parish, consisting of between 
(300 and 400 small ^volumes, under the management of the kirk- 
session and a committee of the inhabitants. The books were pur- 
chased four years ago with money raised by subscription, chiefly 
among the heritors. At its first formation, it was intended for the 
benefit of the Sabbath scholars, and for a time confined to them ; 
afterwards, however, it was considered advisable to make it paro- 
chial, and it is now open to the whole parish. The subscription is 
Is. for children, and 2s. for adults in the year. The advantages 
which it offers have hitherto been made use of chiefly by the chil- 



104 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

dren attending the parish school. There are few adult subscribers. 
It is hoped, however^ that the parents profit by the perusal of the 
books taken home by the children, as they are generally of a cha- 
racter from which the old as well as the young may learn. 

Friendly Societies, — There are at present 3 societies of this de- 
scription existing. One is termed the Ratho Yearly Society ; and, 
as its name intimates, lasts only for a-year, when it is dissolved and 
formed of new. It embraces three objects, — the saving of a portion 
of money for rent, and other purposes ; the relief of casual sick- 
ness ; and the diminution, of the burden of expense consequent 
upon a funeral. For these purposes, each member pays Is. 2d. a 
week ; the odd pence, with the interest of the whole, forms a 
fund from which sick members are relieved, at 'the rate of 5s. a 
week for the first thirteen weeks, 2s. 6d. for the next thirteen, and 
Is. 6d. during the remainder of the year. In the event of a mem- 
ber's death, his family receives L. 2 for funeral expenses, and L. I, 
10s. are given on the death of a member's wife. What remains of 
the whole sum paid from November of the one year to the suc- 
ceeding one, is divided among the members at the expiry of the 
year. There are 6*2 individuals members of this society. The 
aflairs are conducted by a committee of twelve, exclusive of the 
treasurer. 

Masons Society^ — The Free Masons have a Friendly Society in 
connection with their lodge. This society numbers at present about 
50 members, and has, besides the building appropriated to masonic 
meetings, a fund of L. 300. The entry-money paid by persons 
joining the fund is stated in the printed regulations to be L. 1, Is., 
exclusive of what is paid by them as masons. This sum is now 
reduced. Besides the sum paid on entering, each member contri- 
butes to the fund 2s. per quarter, and in return, receives during 
sickness, 6s.perweekforthefirsttwelve weeks, 4s. for the next twelve, 
2s. for the succeeding twenty-six weeks, after which he is put upon 
the sifperannuated allowance of Is. per week during the continuance 
of his illness. L. 6 are given for the funeral expenses of a mem- 
ber. L. 2 of this sum may be drawn by him on the decease of his 
wife, and three only are then allowed to be drawn at his own death. 
A collection of Is. is made from each member when the funeral 
money is taken in whole, 6d. when the L. 2 is taken, and other 6d. 
when application is made for the remaining L. 3. From 1st June 
1837, to 13th August 1838, this society received L.40, 3s. 2|d., 
and paid out L. 44, 16s. 6^d. 



KATHO. 105 

Another society, having similar objects in view, was instituted 
two years ago ; but its operations have not yet commenced, nor 
are its articles embodied in a regular form. 

Savings Bank. — A savings bank existed some years ago, which 
is now dissolved. At present the National Savings Bank serves the 
same purpose, and, from the conBdence with which it is deserved- 
ly regarded, receives considerable contributions from the industri- 
ous among the people. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor at present receiv- 
ing regular parochial assistance is 26, being at the rate of one in 
every 57 of the population. The sum allowed to these variesfrom 2s« 
6d to 6s. per month ;— 4s. may be regarded as the average allowance 
to individuals. In addition to this, each pauper receives a cart of 
coals of 16 cwt at the commencement of the year; and the more 
necessitous of their number half a cart additional in the month of 
March. Besides those receiving constant aid, a few receive occa- 
sional assistance in money, and many more in coals. This class 
amountedin 1835 to 19, in 1836 to 16, and in 1837-1838, owing to 
the severity of the winter, to 30, The permanent funds from which 
the poor are supported are, an assessment upon the heritors accord- 
ing to their valued rent, which has hitherto generally been levied 
at the rate of 2d. per pound Scotch valuation ; the church collec- 
tions, and the mortcloth dues. The assessment in 1835 was 
L. 59, the collections, L. 58, 4s. 4d., and mortcloth money, 
L. 1, 8s. 1836, assessment, L. 71, 2s. ; collections, L. 36, lis. 
2d. ; mortcloth dues, L. 2, 9s. 1837, assessment, L. 76, Os. 8d. ; 
collections, L. 29, Os. lid.; mortcloth dues, L. 5. The money, 
with which the coals is purchased, is raised by a collection at the 
church doors, and a subscription among the heritors and more 
wealthy of the people. The sum thus raised amounted last year 
to L. 34. In addition to the assistance afforded from these sour- 
ces to the indigent, a considerable number are supplied with ex- 
cellent broth twice a week, at Dalroahoy House, by the liberality 
of its charitable proprietor. In the case of any extraordinary ge- 
neral pressure from the inclemency of the season, or of feimily or 
individual distress, a subscription is the common means resorted 
to, and it never fails in accomplishing the desired object. 

We regret to say, when on the subject of the parochial funds, 
that there is not now the disposition there once was on the part of 
the people generally, to contribute to the collections at the church 
doors for behoof of the poor. The time was when scarcely aft indivi- 



106 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

dual entered the sanctuary, old or young, rich or poor, master or ser- 
vant, Viho did not previously cast his mite into the treasury. This 
laudable custom, however, proper and becoming as it is, has fallen 
very much with many into disuse. On the other hand, that reluc- 
tance to make application, or to receive assistance from the church, 
which was once so remarkable in Scotland, is here, as in other places 
around, fast disappearing, and, with some honourable exceptions, 
is almost extinct The receipt of parish aid does not appear to 
be regarded as any degradation, either by the recipients or by those 
connected with them ; and, indeed, the claims for admission upon 
the roll, are generally more than can with propriety be admitted. 
Necessity, however, it is believed, is the great impelling cause of 
9uch applications. 

Inns and Alehouses. — There is no proper inn in the parish ; 
there are, however, 8 public-houses, 7 of which are in the village 
of Ratho. This number is considerably greater than the amount of 
the population would justify. Their influence upon the habits of the 
people has never been considered of a beneficial kind. The practice, 
however, which is every day getting more prevalent, of sending for 
spirits, and drinking them in private houses, is infinitely more de- 
moralizing, as in the latter case, the wives and children of the 
drinkers are not oqly witnesses to the evil, but participators in 
the sin. Every drunkard becomes thus the corrupter of his whole 
household. 

Fuel. — Coals are our chief, it may be said our only fuel. Since 
the Canal was opened, our supply of that article has been derived 
chiefly from the Duke of Hamilton's pits at Niddry, in the parish 
of Polmont The price which, three years ago, used to be as low 
as 99. and 10s., has varied last year, from lis. to 15s. per ton. 
These coals burn well, but are rather dusty, the ashes being white 
and very light A small quantity is still brought from Benhar, 
whence the parish was formerly supplied almost entirely. The 
Benhar coals are generally considered of somewhat superior quali- 
ty, but the extreme length of the carriage, the distance being 
eighteen miles, has thrown them much into disuse in this quarter. 

October 1839. 



PARISH OF COLINTON. 

PRFSBTTBRT OF EDINBURGH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEED DALE. 

THE REV. LEWIS BALFOUR, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — This parish origiDally bore the name of Hailes, and 

was probably so called from that being the name of the property, 
out of which land had been appropriated for the glebe, and for the 
site of the church and manse. Afterwards, the name of Colinton 
was bestowed upon it, probably in compliment to the principal 
family in the parish, which possessed the lands bearing that name. 
Though the parish is described by the name of Colinton, without 
any addition, on the communion cups, which were purchased in 
1680, the name Hailes is applied to it in the church records 
till 1697, when it is written ^* Hailes, alias CoUingtoune." This 
form is used, most generally, when any date is given, till 1747 ; 
after which, except in one or two instances, the name of Colinton 
alone is employed. On one of the plates used at the communion, 
b this inscription, ^^ 1758. Collintoun, alias Hailes' Kirk." Hailes 
is said to be a plural word signifying ^^ mounds or hillocks ;" a 
meaning which aptly enough describes the lands to which it is ap- 
plied. Colinton may mean the town of Colin ; or it may be derived, 
we are told, from a Gaelic word signifying ^* a hollow ;" or from a 
French word, (coUiniJy which bears the opposite meaning of hil- 
ly, and so coincides with the original name of Hailes. The po- 
sition of the church is aptly described by either of the names, for it 
is the church in the ^^ hollow,'' and at the same time among ^^ the 
hillocks." 

Extent^ 4rc. — The parish lies to the westward of Edinburgh. 
The point nearest to that city is about three miles from the Ge- 
neral Post-Office ; and the church is about five miles distant 
from the same place. The parish is an irregular four-sided figure, 
extending in its greatest length about 3^ miles from north to south ; 
and in its greatest breadth^ about 3 miles from east to west ; 



108 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

it contains about 8 square miles. It is bounded on the north- 
west, by the parishes of Corstorphine and St Cuthberts ; on the 
north-east, by the parishes of Morningside (a new parish, quoad 
sacra^ separated from St Cuthberts,) and Liberton ; on the south- 
east, by the parishes of Lasswade and Glencorse ; and on the south- 
west, by those of Penicuik and Currie. 

Topographical Appearances. — The appearance of the parish is 
beautifully diversified. The northern range of the Pentland Hills, 
which is its south-east boundary, rising 1600 feet above the level 
of the sea, forms a fine Alpine back-ground from which the land 
falls in various undulations towards the flats of Corstorphine. 
The descent is arrested towards the north-east by the romantic 
rising-grounds of the fir hill and Craig- Lockhart hill ; while a 
little farther down, it is intersected for nearly three miles, by the 
dell in which the interesting Water of Leith flows. The whole 
scene is beautified by hedge-rows, by the trees which surround 
the houses of heritors and others, and by the denser masses of 
plantation on the lands of Hailes, Colinton House, Redhall, 
Craig- Lockhart, and Dreghorn. There, ever-greens and deci- 
duous trees are blended together, whose various forms and foli- 
age, whether viewed in spring, when their fresh and contrasted 
verdure clothe anew the naked groves, or in autumn, when their 
changing hues sympathize with the yellow fields, and render that 
season. the most attractive in the year, throw a richness and va- 
riety over a landscape scarcely equalled in the vicinity of Edin- 
burgh. Beyond the bounds of the parish are seen the capiial of 
Scotland, with its spires and romantic Castle ; the Frith of Forth 
and the fertile coast of Fife, — the more distant Ochils, and the 
bold Grampians towards the north-west closing the view. 

The arable lands in the parish lie from 250 feet to 600 feet above 
the level of the sea. Some lands have lately been subjected to 
the plough on the farm of Swanston, lying at the east end of the 
Pentland hills, which are perhaps 100 feet higher. The church 
at Colinton stands 300 feet above the level of the sea ; Colinton 
House, 386; Bonally, 482; Dreghorn Castle, 489; Hunter's 
Tryst, 517; Swanston, 616; Caerketan ( vulgo^ Kirkyetton) hill, 
1565 ; and AUermuir hill, 1616. 

Hydrography. — The principal stream in the parish^ the Water of 
Leith, flows through the lower part of it for nearly three miles, 
and though it has no great breadth, being only about 50 feet 
from bank to bank opposite to the manse, it is an important 



COLINTON. 109 

» 

aid to the industry of the parish, within which it is employed 
in sixteen mills and one bleach-field. It has, however, the dis- 
advantage belonging to all small streams, that its supply of water 
is very unequal. There are seasons when the water almost' 
disappears among the stones ; and there are times when the 
swollen torrent rushes along with the power of a giant. In October 
1832, this stream was very heavily flooded for three days, in con- 
sequence of which, twelve dam-heads were injured in its course, 
and the bridge at Slateford, which had stood for seventy years, was 
broken down. It was proposed, some years ago, to form a reservoir 
towards the source of the stream for the treasuring up of the super- 
fluous waters of the wet season, to be again distributed in the time 
of need. But this plan has never been carried into effect. This 
stream flows into the Frith of Forth at Leith, constituting 
the original harbour of that place. — There are also three burns 
in the parish ; the Murray-burn, forming its north-western boun- 
dary till it falls into the Leith at Longstone, a little below Slate- 
ford ; the Braid-burn, which takes its rise chiefly in the hills about 
Bonally and Dreghorn ; and the Burdiehouse-burn, which comes 
down from Swanston. There are, besides these, many excellent 
springs in the lands of Comiston, Swanston, and Dreghorn, from 
which the inhabitants of Edinburgh were long chiefly supplied with 
water. Maitland, in his History of Edinburgh, states on this sub- 
ject, that, in 1621, means were first thought of for bringing in the 
water from Comiston to Edinburgh ; but that nothing was eflec- 
tually done till 1672, when a fire-hearth tax was laid on the town 
by Act of Parliament, in order to raise the necessary fund. In 
1681, Peter Brauss brought in the Tod spring from Comiston, 
at the expense of L. 2900 Sterling, and gave so much satisfaction to 
his employers that ihey gave him a present of L. 50. In 1698, 
the Hare and the Mowbray springs, with all that might be be- 
tween them, were rented from the proprietor of Comiston for a 
season, at L. 18 per annum, and brought also into the good town. 
In later times, to add to the various supplies of water, two ponds 
were formed on the lands of Spylaw, above Bonally, and their con- 
tents directed into the same channel. Since, however, the abun- 
dant waters of the Crawly spring have been carried into Edinburgh 
by a Water Company formed in 1819, these ponds have been su- 
perseded. Still, with all this abundant supply of water, there are 
places in the parish where it is not to be had in sufficient quan> 
tity, though there can be little doubt, that, were it properly sought 



110 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

for, it would generally be obtained. There is no peculiarity in 
the climate of the parish.* 

Geology and Mineralogy* — The geological character of the pa 
rish is varied and interesting. The whole parish is of the second* 
ary formation, interspersed with rocks and minerals in endless va- 
riety. The Pentland Hills are of porphyry, of which the prevailing 
kinds are clayston^ porphyry and felspar porphyry. The gene- 
ral contour of these towajrds the north resembles the Andes, while, 
towards the south, they imitate exactly the aspect of the Malvern 
range in Worcestershire. Caerketan Crags are different in their 
composition from the restof the hills, — the bulk of them being clayey 
felspar, which, but for a strong impregnation with black oxide of iron, 
would be extremely useful to the potter. This is called Petunse 
Pentlandicaj from its resemblance to the Kaoline or Petunse, so va- 
luable in the Chinese potteries, from which the best china is made. 

On the summit of the Pentland Hills, boulders of primitive 
rock, such as granite, gneiss, &c, are met with, whose origin- 
al site is not less distant than sixty miles, viz. at Benlomond and 
Dunkeld. Malactite or green carbonate of copper is found among 
the Pentlands. Jaspers are frequently met with, and some of 
these are very beautiful. A piece of fluor spar was picked up in 
the burn above Bonally, which Professor Jameson does not consi- 
der indigenous, but which, if it were so, would be a subject of mi- 
neralogical interest Craig Lockhart Hill is a fine specimen of 
basaltic rock, studded with some interesting minerals, as Olivine, 
Humboldtite, augite, prehnite, with drusy cavities, zeolite, &c. In 
the bed of the river, immediately below the manse, there is a beau- 
tiful specimen of the ^^ dike" fully exposed, the strata being nearly 
in a vertical position : and about 200 yards above the manse, in a 
cavity in the bed of the river, is a tufa rock, showing that the dis- 
turbance in the strata has proceeded from volcanic influence. A 
little below the dam-head of Colinton barleymill is found, on the 
Hailes side of the stream, an excellent millstone rock. The mill- 
stones, however, require to be built, as the rock cannot be raised 
in pieces sufficiently large to make them entire. The access to 
the quarry is difficult ; and there are not many stones taken out of 
it Indeed, the bed of the Water of Leith in this parish presents 

* « 1652 was a very early year. Com was shorn in June, and harvest finished in 
August, without wait, storm, or tempest. It also produced ripe wine berries and 
grapes, and abundance of Scotts chastanes, opealie sauld at the mercat cross, and baken 
in pasties at Bankittes.*'— NioolPs Diary. 

1826 was a similar season. Com was cut between Colinton and Edinburgh in 
June O. S. ; and in August O. S. harvest was finished. ChestnuU ripened at Criig- 
Lockhart House in this parish. 



COLINTON. Ill 

to the geologist a great variety of very interesting matter. Petrifac* 
tions of wood and shells, impressions of leaves, and, in one instance, 
the impression of a fish have been found in it. There are quar- 
ries of good sandstone or freestone in the parish ; in one of these — 
Hailes quarry — ^masses of sandstone in spherical concretions, are 
found imbedded in the clay which occurs between the freestone 
strata. Curious impressions of plants are also occasionally no- 
ticed in this quarry. Neither coal nor lime are wrought in the 
parish, though some people suppose that there are indications of 
the presence of both. 

The more remarkable birds found here are, the kestril hawk, 
which breeds in the rocks at Craig Lockhart, the brown owl, the 
snowflake, brambling, Bohemian chatterer, long-tailed tit-mouse, 
golden-crested wren, butcher-bird, ring-ousel, water-hen, and 
king's-fisher. Dr Walker, in his account of the parish, says that 
this last bird remains only a few days in the parish; of late, how- 
ever, it has remained for months, nay, it is even surmised that, 
on one occasion, it remained over the summer, and had a nest near 
Slateford. It has been much hunted of late years for the sake of 
its plumage, and has, in consequence, become very rare. It is 
understood that the missel-thrush has here, as elsewhere, very 
much usurped the place of the common thrush. 

Botany. — As the parish is greatly diversified by hill, vale, and 
stream, it is a rich treasure of botanical productions. Some plants, 
both cryptogamous and phenogamous, are very rare. It is unneces- 
sary, however, to enter into any enumeration of these here, as a list of 
all the plants within ten miles of Edinburgh has been long before the 
public. It may be noticed, however, that a small yellow poppy, 
perennial, made its appearance in the manse garden soon after the 
present incumbent took possession, which is said to be found in 
some of the plantings near Woodhall, but whose habitat is the 
mountains of Wales. 

There are plantations around the houses of the heritors and 
at Woodville; on the banks of the river belonging to Wood- 
hall, Spylaw, Colinton House, Hailes, Redhall, and Craig 
Lockhart ; on Craig Lockhart Hill, fir-hill, above Swanston, 
(planted by Mr Trotter of Mortonhall in 1766,) and on the lands 
of Mr Trotter of Dreghom. The plantations on this la^t-men- 
tioned property, which are of considerable extent, and run far up 
the White-hill, are the most recent in the parish, and are in a 
thriving condition. It is remarked, however, that though the soft 
wood in these plantations flourishes well for a time, it soon begins 



1 1 2 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

to decay, while the hardi-wood, especially ash and elm, continues 

to thrive. There are two pretty large yew trees in the parish, — 

the one in Woodhall garden, and the other at the manse. In 

Redhall grounds, there are two or three white acacias, as large 

as forest trees. At Col in ton House are several cedars ; the seed 

from which they were raised is said to have been sent here from 

the East, when Mr Drummond was Consul at Aleppo. There 

are also very lofty holly hedges around the gardens connected witn 

the old House of Colinton. There were similar hedges running 

across the centre of Hailes garden, which have been lately cut 

down to the height of ten or twelve feet, for the sake of the garden. 

n. — Civil History. 
Historical Notices.-r-On the barony of Redhall, and not far 

from the site of the present house, there once stood a castle which 
was used as a place of strength, and which proved to have been 
so in former times. Of this house it is stated, that, in 1572, it 
was, with other places about Edinburgh, garrisoned " by the Re- 
gent Marr, and the King's favourers."— ^(Pollock's MSS. Life of 
Napier of Merchiston.) In 1650, this castle endured a regular 
siege from Cromwell's army, of which the following interesting 
account is given by Nicol in his Diary, (Ban. Club.) — " Cromwell 
pushed from Berwick to Oollingtoune, without opposition, until 
he came to the house of Reidhall, within three miles be west Edin- 
burgh. In the whilk house of Reidhall the Laird of Reidhall 
with threescore sodgeris, lay with provisions and keepit and de- 
fendit the house aganes the Englishes, and gallit his sodgeris, and 
put them back several times, with loss of sindry sodgeris. (Civil 
wars of Great Britain and Ireland, say that in Reidhall Lord 
Hamilton and Major Hamilton were taken.) The English Gene- 
ral taking this very greivously that such a waik house sould hald 
out aganes him and be an impediment in his way, he and his airmy 
lying so neir unto it, thairfor he causit draw his cannon to the 
house, and thair, from four hours in the morning till ten in the foir- 
noun that day, he causit the cannon to play on this house, encampit 
a great number of his sodgeris about it with pike and musket, but 
all to lytel purpose ; for the Laird and the pepil in the house de- 
fendit it valiantly ever till thair powder failed : and efter it failed, 
they did not give over, ever lucking for help from our awin army, 
wha was then lying at Crosstorfyn, within three-quarters of ane 
myle to the house : of whas help thai war disappointed. Ge- 
neral Cromwell percaiving their powder to be gone, and that no 



COLINTON. 113 

assistance was given thame^ he causit Pittardis to be brocht to the 
house, quhairwith he blew up the dures, entered the dures and 
windowes, and efter slaughter on both sides, (but much moir to the 
Englishes than to the Scottis), tuik all that were in the house 
prisoners, tirred them naked, seased on all the money and guides' 
that were thairin, quhilk was much, be reason that sindry gentlemen 
about haid put thair guides thair for saiftie. So this house and 
pepil thairin were taken in the sicht and face of our airmie, quha 
thocht it dangerous to hazard thameselves in such ane expeditioun, 
the enemy haiffing the advantage of the ground and hills about 
him for his defence." *' Efter the enemie had taken the Laird of 
Reidhall prisoner, he thaireftir put him to liberty, commending 
much his valour and activitie for balding out so stoutlie aganes him 
that house of Reidhall." 

The Covenanters came from the west to Colinton village 
on 27th November 1666, where they remained all night : on 
the 28th they marched by Ingliston bridge, in the point of Pent- 
land hills ; and the battle of Rullion Green took place that even- 
ing. And in 1745, Prince Charles Edward in his way to Edin- 
burgh took up his abode in the farm-house at Gray's mill imme- 
diately below Slateford, on Monday the 17th September ; whence 
he proceeded next day by Buckstane-head and Newington, to the 
palace of Holyrood House. 

Family ofFoulis. — Foulis of Colinton is the most ancient family 
in the parish. Foulis is supposed to have come to Scotland from 
France (as the name intimates) in the eleventh century, in the reign 
of Malcolm Canmore. The family acquired the lands of Colinton in 
1519. James Foulis of Colinton was made King's Advocate in 1 528, 
and Clerk Register in 1531. He was concerned in all the public 
transactions of his time, was one of the commissioners appointed, 
25th August 1543, to negociate a marriage betwixt Mary Queen 
of Scots and Prince Edward of England, which negociation, how- 
ever, failed ; was appointed one of the members of the College of 
Justice at its institution in 1532, and acted in every situation with 
fidelity and honour. He acquired considerable property. In the 
beginning of the seventeenth century the James Foulis of that pe- 
riod was a favourite with the King, and was, while young, knight- 
ed by him. His son, Alexander Foulis, was created a baronet in 
1634. His son, Sir James, became a Senator of the College of 
Justice in 1661 by the title of Lord Colinton, and was appointed 
Justice- Clerk in 1684; he died in 1688. His son. Sir James 

EDINBURGH. H 



1 14 KDINBUROHSHIRE. 

FouHs, was also raised to the Bench during bis father's lifetime, 
(in 1674,) by the title of Lord Redford. He was a member of the 
last Scottish Parliament, and of the first British one. These two, 
as may well be supposed, from the places which they held, agreed 
with the Court in its views and measures. This ancient and ho- 
nourable family still has a representative in the parish, though 
the lands of Colinton have passed into other hands, the title being 
now enjoyed by Sir James Foulis of Woodhall, Bart., whose an- 
cestor was George, the second son of James Foulis, who held the 
lands of Colinton in 1581. * — John M^Laurin, son of the famous 
Colin M^Laurin, when raised to the Bench, on which he sat for 
eight years, took the title of Lord Dreghom, from a small pro- 
perty which he held in this parish. The touching and impressive 
inscription which he caused to be put upon the south-west comer 
of Greyfriars Church, Edinburgh, in memory of his father^ de^ 
serves to be inserted : 

Infra situs est 
Colin M^Laurin, 
Mathes. olim. in Accad. Edin. Prof, electus suo Newtono suadente> 

H. L. P. F. 
Non ut nomini paterno consulate 
Nam tali auzilio nil eget ; 
Sed ut in hoc infelici campo. 
Ubi Luctus regnant et pavor, 
Mortalibus prorsus non absit Solatium, * 
Hujus enim Scripta evolve, 
Mentemque tantarum rerum Capacem, 
Corpore caduco superstitem crede ! 

The parish is still connected with the College of Justice, by 
the residence at Bonally, of the Honourable Lord Cockburn, who 
was nrised to the Bench in 1834. 

Dr Alexander Monro, Secundus, who taught anatomy and sur- 
gery most successfully in the University of Edinburgh for the 
long space of forty years, maintaining and advancing the celebrity 
of that University as a school of medicine, purchased the proper- 

* Foulis of Co/tn^on.— •This family seems at one time to have possessed nearly the 
whole of the parish of Hailes. 1609, James Foulis de Collingtoune was ratified in 
the lands of Collingtoune, Swanston, Dreghorn, Boneyley, Baddis, Pitmure OzgangSy 
Comiston, Reidhall. 1641, Sir Alexander Foulis is ratified in Collingtoun Ozgangs, 
the vicarage of Hailes, in the teinds of town and lands of Craiglockhart Ozganga, 
- portions of Boneyiey, Dreghorn, and Swanston. 1661, July 12, anent Lord CoU 
lingtoun*s losses, inter alia, in 1650, his whole tenement, tennant-houses, homes, 
byres, and luul onsets,, in the town and lands of New Mains, Craiglockhart, and 
Benbridge, burned by the Usurper's army, L. 4000 Scots. The whole of his plenish- 
ing within the manor place of Collingtoun, burnt or taken away, all the doors and 
windows, iron work, and much of the loftein and roof were burned, pulled down, 
destroyed, or taken away, by the said Usurpers, and that he had several other houses 
destroyed, and much of his planting cut, all estimated to L. 10,000 Scottis, his corns 
destroyed, estimated at L. 3083 Scotts.— Acts of Scottish Parliament. 



COUNTON. 115 

ty of Craig Lockhart, in this parish, about 1780. Although he had 
no residence on the lands, he took great pleasure in adorning them, 
and frequently betook himself to country occupations, as a cheer- 
ing and useful recreation. He died in 1817. The property still 
remains with his eldest son, and successor in the Anatomical chair. 

A small part of the lands of Colinton, containing the site of the 
old house, was purchased towards the end of the last century, by 
Sir William Forbes of Pitsligo, Bart. Banker in Edinburgh, a man 
distinguished not more by his manners and accomplishments, than 
by the integrity of his character, and the enlarged beneyolence of 
his heart. He wrote an able and interesting life of Dr Beattie, 
with whom he had been intimate for forty years. He died in 1806, 
leaving for the public good his mantle on his family, who have 
nobly maintained the reputation of their Either. His grandson, 
Professor James D. Forbes, now holds the Natural Philosophy 
Chair in the University of Edinburgh, with honour to himself 
and advantage to the students : and with him the parish feels ho- 
noured in being connected. 

James Gillespie, founder of the hospital in Edinburgh which 
bears his name, is supposed to have been a native of Roslin. He 
became a tobacconist in Edinburgh ; and by the exercise of pa- 
tient industry and frugality, at a favourable time, he acquired con- 
siderable wealth, and purchased the property of Spylaw, in this pa- 
rish, where he spent the close of his days. He left the greater 
part of his fortune for the endowment of a charitable school, and 
of an hospital for the lodging and maintenance of old men and wo- 
men. The hospital was opened in 1802. Fourteen mal^s and 
eighteen females are maintained in it, who are comfortably lodged 
and fed. The free school was opened in 1803^ and in it 150 boys 
are instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic. 

iMnd-'Owners. — The parish is divided among 1 1 proprietors, viz. 

Rentals. 

Alexander Trotter of Dr^hora, Esq. having of valued rent, . L.729 

Sir Thomas Gibson Carmicbael of Hailes, Bart. 658 14 1 

Richard Trotter of (MortoDhaU)Swanston, Esq. 55Q 

Sir James Forrest df Comiston, Bart. . 536 

John Inglis of Redhall, Esq. . • 535 1 4 

Sir James Foulis of Woodhall, Bart. . . 444 9 10 

Gillespie*s Hospital, proprietor of Spylaw, . • 430 13 6 
Dr Alexander Monro, Professor of Anatomy in the University of Edin* 

burgh, of Craig Lockhart, ... 333 6 8 

Sir John S. Forbes of Pitsligo and Fettercairn, Bart of Colinton House, 162 

J. Home Rigg, Esq. of Colinton Mains, . . . 130 

Andrew Grieve, W. S. of Hole Mill, . . . 3 4 7 



Amount of valued rent, • L.4514 10 



116 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Alexander Trotter, Esq., John Inglis, Esq., Sir James Foulis, 
Bart and Dr Monro, reside in the parish, at least during the sum- 
mer, sometimes throughout the whole year. To this list of resi- 
dents the name of Sir James Forrest, Bart, ought perhaps to be 
added, though for the present his duties as Chief- Magistrate of 
Edinburgh have withdrawn him from the country. Sir John S. 
Forbes, though he has ceased to occupy Colinton House, still, 
with all the generosity of his family, delights in doing good in the 
place which he has left; — his benevolence falls on many a needy 
one, as dew upon the tender herb.* 

Families from Edinburgh often reside in this parish during the 
summer months. Most of these, however, are transient visitors. 
But there are two whose connexion with the parish is more perma- 
nent. Dr W. P. Alison, Professor of the Theory of Medicine in 
the University of Edinburgh, resides at Woodville, a small but pret- 
ty property ; the remainder of a very long lease of which was pur- 
chased by himself and his father, the late Rev. Archibald Alison, 
LL. B. of St Paul's Chapel, Edinburgh, about seven years ago ; 
and Alexander Clapperton, Esq. merchant in Edinburgh, who, with 
his family, resides regularly during summer at Spy law Bank, a small 
farm which he has in lease from Gillespie's Hospital, and to the 
house on which he has this season made a comfortable addition. 

Parochial Registers^ Reader^ ffc, at Hailes. — From a register 
of ministers (Maitland Club,) we learn that, in 1576, Alexander 

* Hailcs.— 1592. The kirklands of the kirk of Hailles, pertaining sometime to 
the preceptoryof Sanstanthone* with glebe, mansef house, biggings, and all other per- 
tinents ratified to the clerk of registration, and Mr John Hay, his son.^Acts of Scot- 
tish Parliament. 

Redhall 7th April, 4th year, Robert II. (1875,) Mejgmers conTeyed to Robert* 

Earl of Fife, ^nd Monteith; (the King*s son,) his bcu-ony de RedehaU, except the 
lands de Drcghorne and de Woodhall, which had been given to others.— Index of 
Charters under Great Seal. 

1535.~Adam Ottirburn, Provost of Edinburgh, 1538. A. O. of ReidhaU. 1616. 
Sir Thomas Ottirburn of Reidhall, had an only daughter, "who married Sir James 
Hamilton of Uoperig. Knight, on whom, and thdr heirs-male, Redhall was settled. 
1672. John Christy of Dairy possessed Redhall. 1681. James Brand, vounger of 
Baberton, was ratified in these lands. (This family called their whole property 
Castle Brand, by which denomination it is mentioned in the old parish registers.) 
The cwditors of George Brand sold Redhall to John Davidson, W.S. in 1749. Mr 
Inglis bought it in 1755. and resumed the old name of Redhall.— Acts of Scottish 
Parliament, and information from present proprietor. 

Woodhall. — 1663. Cunnyngbame of Cunn3mghame,— head heir of 92 oxgangs of 
Woodhall and Bonally, in the barony of Reidlmll. 1672. John Cunnyngbame of 
Enterkim ratified in 92 oxgaits of land old extent of W^oodhall and Bonally .^^Acts 
of Scottish Parliament. 

Craig Lockhart— 1690, 17th February. The hmds of Crais Lockbart were by 
Act of Parliament disjoined from the parish of West Kirk, and added to Ihe parish of 
Hailcs. 1662, dd September. Sir John Gilmour of Craigmillar, president of the Col- 
lege of Justice, ratified in the lands of Craig Lockhart, with the tour, fortalice, manor 
place, &c«— Acts of Scottish Parliament. 



COLINTON. 117 

Forrester was Reader at Haillis, *^ his stipend xiiili. xs. and 9d. to- 
gidder with the vicarage pensionarie of Haillis, to be payit out of 
the thrid of the Hospitale of Sanstanthonis in Leitb/' 

From records of the Kirk of Scotlapd 1639) we find that Wil- 
liam Ogstane, minister at Colingtoune, had been deposed in 1638, 
for deserting of his flock, causing his people after a superstitious 
way to sit on their knees when he examined them, meddling with 
the poor folk's box, &c. and that his case was in 1689 referred to 
the Commission that was to be appointed. 

The parochial registers are contained in seven volumes, which are 
all in good condition. These volumes contain the proceedings of the 
kirk-session, the distributions made to the poor, and the minutes of 
the heritors, of which last there are very few; but since 1716, the 
poor's matters have been separately recorded, and since 1757, 
the minutes of the heritor's meetings. The registers of marriages, 
baptisms, and burials, have always been kept in separate volumes. 
The first minute of session wants the date, but it mentions the re- 
turn of the minister from Fife, whither he had fled about a year 
before, in consequence of Cromwell's victory at Dunbar, dd Sep- 
tember 1650, and the next minute is 14th September 1651. 
These records are minutely kept until July 1733^ between which 
date and 1746, the payments made to the poor only are recorded. 
From that period till 1783, matters of discipline are again intro- 
duced; but thereafter, until 1823, very few entries appear on the 
record. From these books it appears that since 1650, the thir- 
teenth minister is now in possession of the cure of Colinton. 1. 
John Charteris ; 2. Robert Bennet, admitted 1659, desisted 
preaching 1681 ; 3. Thomas Murray, admitted 1682, left 1685; 
4. Samuel Nimmo, admitted 1686, deposed by General Commis- 
sion of the church 1691 ; 5. James Thomson, ordained 1694, 
translated to Elgin 1696 ; 6. Thomas Paterson, ordained 1697, 
translated to West-kirk 1699; 7. Walter Allan, ordained 1700; 
8. George Gibson, ordained 1733; 9. John Hyndman, 1746, 
translated to West-kirk 1752; 10. Robert Fisher, from Lauder, 
1753; 11. Dr John Walker from Moffat, 1783; 12. John Fleming, 
from Carrington, 1804; 1 a L. Balfour, from Sorn, 1823. With the 
minister in 1651, returned the schoolmaster, and since that period 
the sixteenth schoolmaster is at present in possession of the charge. 
Of the first, John Craw, it is stated that he was deposed in 1655 
for brewing and selling drink in the school-house, ^^ so near the 
kirk and minister's yett." From these records we learn that there 



1 18 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

were always elders Id the parish, even during the most troublous 
times ; that the elders who collected, did thereafter during divine 
worship visit the village of Colinton, and sometimes the more dis- 
tant villages, to correct abuses : that the collections were good, 
the poor on the funds few, and the money so abundant, that some 
of the heritors borrowed from the session to pay their proportion 
of expenses in repairing the church, while they seem to have for- 
go tt en to repay: that in 1680, two silver cups to be used in the 
communion were bought out of the session funds, the one inscrib- 
ed, ^ The cup of blessing which we bless, is it not the communion 
of the blood of Christ ? I am the vine, ye are the branches ;" 
and the other, ^' This cup is the New Testament in my blood 
which was shed for you. I am the Vine, &c. ;" on both it b 
stated that they belong to '^ the kirk -session of Collingtoune :" 
that the kirk-session gave authority to erect seats in the area of 
the church ; that under date 12th September 1680, it is stated that 
some parishioners, having been displeased with the erection of a 
seat in the body of the church, though allowed by the kirk-session, 
applied to that body to have the nuisance removed, but the ses- 
sion determine ^^ that they can do nothing in the matter without 
the bishop and the Presbytery," (N.6. This is the only instance 
where the bishop is alluded to in the records ;) that there was no 
meeting of kirk-session from January 1662 till March 1663^ '*by 
reason that all the kirk-sessions of the Church of Scotland were 
dischai^d by a public declaration of the King's Majesty :'' that 
in 1679, the communion was delayed by reason of the troublous 
times, the country being in confusion in consequence of the fight 
of Both well Bridge : that in 1677, on a complaint, the kirk-ses- 
sion pass an act prohibiting the lending out of the communion 
tables and forms for the use of penny weddings : that the sacra- 
ment was not dispensed in the parish from 1688 till 1702, for 
which no reason is assigned : and that during the whole of the 
period included in these volumes there has been only one Presby- 
terial visitation of the parish which took place on the 8th June 
1714. The following notices are curious : 1680, February 8, A 
woman is taken up on suspicion of having murdered her illegiti- 
mate child, and the matter is enquired into : <^ There is one thing 
(say the minutes) very observable in that business, that when the 
mother laid her hand upon the child's nose, there came a little 
blood from it, which was seen by many present." This refers to 
the superstitious idea which used to prevail, that a murdered body 

4 



. COLINTON. 1 1 9 

would bleed when touched by the murderer. The poor creature 
was delivered over to the public prosecutor, tried, condemned, and 
executed in the Grassmarket on the 15th day of August, the same 
year. 1714, November 9, Isabel Colquohun was summoned to 
the session for disturbing her neighbours in time of sermon. Hav- 
ing appeared, she stated, ^^ that she being the oldest possessor of 
a chair in the body of the kirk, she thought that the neighbours 
in Bonally should have more respect to her than to toss her chair 
up and down the kirk, as they often did, and that all the noise she 
had made was to get back her chair where it had stood three-score 
years; but that she was sorry, &c." — She was rebuikit 

Antiquities. — " On the lands of Comiston once stood the re- 
mains of a large encampment Adjacent to this camp, and near 
the house of Fair-mile*head, an extensive and important battle had 
been fought, and two very large conical cairns erected ; on demolish- 
ing which for t4c purpose of making the turnpike road, remains of 
human bones were found in them, and several fragments of old 
arms, two of which are still in the possession of Mr Trotter of 
Mortonhail, the proprietor of the ground. Not far from these 
cairns there had been erected an upright pillar stone, which still 
remains. It is a rude massy block of whinstone, of a flat shape, 
'^ nine feet" above the surface of the ground, and four feet below it 
It is called the Kel Stane, an old British word signifying the battle 
stone. It has also passed immemorially by the name of Camus 
Stone, which would seem to intimate its connection with some Da- 
nish commander." The Roman road which extended from York 
to Carriden near Abercorn, passed through Comiston farm, and 
the high road between the toll and Bow Bridge, is very nearly on the 
line which it followed. The ruins of a small fortalice stand beau- 
tifully situated at the north base of Craig Lockhart hill. Part of 
the cover of a stone coffin was lately taken out of the rubbish 
in. the floor of the church. It bears on it the rude outlines of 
a sword and mace, the latter consisting of a simple handle, and end- 
ing in four circles, meeting in a common centre. 

Inscription on a tablet in the aisle of Colinton church : — here. 

LYIS . ANB . HONOKABIL . VOMAN . A . HIRIOT . SPOVS . TO . I . 
FOVLIS . OF . COLLINGTOVN . VAS . QVHA . DIED . 8 . AVGVST . 

1593. 

Modem Buildings* — Colinton House was built at a very con- 
siderable expense about the beginning of this century, by the late 
Sir William Forbes, Bart It stands on the brow of the lawn, and 



120 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

looks over a fine expanse of country to the north and east The old 
house has been converted very adroitly into a decorative ruin, which 
has attached to it two old fashioned gardens, flanked and divided 
by the lofty holly hedges already referred to. Dreghorn Castle 
was built about the same time ^th Colinton House, by Alexander 
Trotter, Esq. It is embosomed among trees, some of which are 
stately beeches belonging to the olden times, but the greater propor- 
tion have been planted by the present proprietor, and are in a very 
thriving condition. These are built of hewn freestone. Co- 
miston House, the residence of Sir James Forrest, Bart was 
built in 1815. And Craig Lockhart House was built by Dr 
Monro, about fifteen years ago. It is sweetly situated on the 
verge of the sloping wooded bank which runs down to the Wa* 
ter of Leith. Lord Cockburn having feued a portion of land 
from Gillespie's Hospital, at the foot of the Pentland hills, and 
having greatly ornamented the place, built as an addition to the 
small house at Bonally, a Peel Tower, which was finished this sea- 
son. It is situate in a hollow, commands the pass through the hills, 
and has a most interesting air. It is the lion of the parish. 

III. — Population. 
Before the middle of the seventeenth century this parish ap- 
pears to have had but few inhabitants. Their number, however, 
continued rather on the increase till the time of the seven years 
famine, that is, fropi the year 1695 till 1702, during which pe- 
riod it is said to have much diminished. In an information 
presented to the Court of Teinds in 1709, this parish was. said to 
contain 318 examinable persons ; if to these a third part be added 
for unexaminable persons, the whole inhabitants would appear to 
have then amounted to 424. From a record in possession of the 
church, it appears that about the year 

1750, the population amounted to 782 
1755, by DrWebstert report, 792 
1791, - . - 1896 

1801, - . - 1392 

1811, - . - 1605 

1821, . - . 2019 

1831, ... 2232 

Of this last number 1076 were males ; and 1156 females. 

The population has since decreased, the amount in 1838 being 
1982. The cause of this diminution, perhaps, is to be found in the 
facts, that the extra work on many of the farms has been completed; 
that in Hailes Quarry, many fewer hands afo employed of late, while 
Redhall Quarry is not wrought ; and that machinery has been intro- 
duced into three of the paper-mills, producing a great diminution in 



COLINTON. 121 

the number of hands required. The population is divided among 
five considerable villages, as many hamlets, and various small knots 
of houses connected with farms and mills. The villages are, 

Colinton» contaioing 61 men, 58 women ; total, 119 
Swanston, - 49 men. 54 women; do. 103 

Juniper Green, 166 men, 172 women ; do. 338 
Hailes Quarry, - 69 men, 76 women; do. 145 
Slateford, - 95 men, 116 women; do. 21 J 

Dr Walker says in the old Account, that in this parish, the re- 
gisters of baptisms and marriages have been regularly keptsince 1 655 ; 
and that of burials since 1 728. This continues to be the case. On- 
ly, it must be observed, that many of the Seceders do not register 
the baptism of their children ; and that individuals who die in the 
parish are sometimes buried elsewhere, and consequently are not re- 
gistered here. This last source of error in any calculation, founded 
on the register of burials, is understood to be compensated by the 
burials which take place here firom other parishes. 

The births from 1827 to 1836 inclusive, were 241 males, 227 
females, in all ^168 ; of these 27 were still-born, or died before 
being baptised ; 10 were twins, and 12 were illegitimate. The 
burials in the same ^ears am6unted to 429; of these 182 were 
under twelve years of age ; and 71 were seventy years old and up- 
wards. The marriages during the same period amounted to 127. 

The number of families in the parish is 440 ; (he average num- 
ber of individuals to each family is 4^. There are in the parish 
445 houses, and there are 52 dwelling places empty. 

There is, at present, only one pauper lunatic connected with 
the parish, and two residing in it There are 2 blind persons, 2 
fatuous, and 1 deaf and dumb. 

There are no customs peculiar to the parish. The people are 
on the whole attentive to cleanliness, dress well on the Sabbath, 
and, if they would act aright, have the comforts and advantages of 
society in a reasonable degree. They are not generally given to 
reading. Some years ago an attempt was made to cherish the prac- 
tice, by introducing among them itinerating libraries, — the 6rst 
year's expense having been kindly defrayed by a friend. But the 
experiment came to a close at the end of the fourth year, when 
the money drawn from the readers' was not equal to the hire of 
the books. One vice prevails greatly among the people, which 
eats out a man's heart, and renders him indiiferent to religion, to 
knowledge, and to his nearest and dearest friends, viz. the drinking 
of ardent spirits. It was ascertained that the drinking portion of the 
working classes in the parish must have spent L. 2300 for spirits in 



122 EDiNDURGUSillKE. 

1834. How ruinous is that appetite which withdraws so large a sum 
in so small a society from ministering to its comfort and improve- 
mentr With the view of correcting this great evil, a Tempe- 
rance Society was formed in the parish in the end of 1830. 
This brought much to the knowledge of the people, concerning 
the extent and consequences of drinking, of which they had previ- 
ously been wholly unaware, and was productive of red good even 
to those who did not join it But the novelty of the thing wore 
off, the lover of drink returned to it again, and though the society 
still exists, its influence is little felt beyond the range of those who 
have conscientiously entered it ; while the evil practice is spread* 
ing its influence even among the female part of our population. 
Need it be wondered at, that, among those who thus serve their ap- 
petites, the truth makes but a feeble impression ? that many turn 
away from it altogether, and that the concerns of time usurp that 
place in the thoughts which is due only to those of eternity. Still 
there are many whose conduct is regular and becoming, and who 
value the truth as it is in Christ. 

It is understood that much poaching goes on in the parish^ 
though the poachers are believed to be chiefly visitors from other 
places. 

IV. — Industry.* . 

The parish contains about 5070 acres ; of these there are in tillage, or fit for tillage^ 
though in pasture, - . .... 8436 acres. 

In hill pasture, . • 1356 

planting, . • . . 278 

Total, 5070 acres. 

There is no undivided common in the parish. 

llie arable land may be valued at L. 8246 8 per annum, 

pasture at . .... 922 2 

In all, L. 8568 10 
Besides 278 acres in wood. 

This parish, reaching in its north-east direction to within about 
two miles of Edinburgh, probably contains a greater variety of 
land than any other at a similar distance from the city. This 
arises from its extending southward to the summit of the Pent- 
land hills, and thus including in its bounds not only the level 
fields which stretch out from the bottom of the bills, but also the 
most part of the northern face of the northern range. There is, 
however, little of the land capable of improvement, if any, that has 
not already been submitted to the plough and harrow ; and much 

• Furnished by Mr Scott, farmer, Craig Lockhart. 



COLINTON. 123 

has been done within the last twenty years towards its general im- 
provement, by deep draining, and a judicious system of cropping. 
Rent. — The arable land, from the difference of soil and situation 
already alluded to, varies in rent from about lu 1, 4s. to L. 3, 19s. 
6d. per imperial acre ; but the average may be stated at L. 2, 8s. 
The pasture lands on the Pentland hills, of which there are about 
1308 acres, let at about 4s. 9d. per acre ; while the other pasture 
lands, which, with the exception of Craig Lockhart hills, consist 
of enclosures connected with villas, or the houses of the heritors, 
let at from L. 1, 12s. to L. 3, 4s. per acre. There is no such 
thing known in the parish as letting pasture land at so much per 
ox or sheep. 

Husbandry. — The rotation of cropping on the arable landin gene- 
ral is, 1. potatoes, turnips, or beans ; 2. wheat or barley ; 3. hay ; 4. 
oats. But of late years, from the low price of grain or hay, and the 
comparatively high price of fat stock, a disposition has been shown 
on some farms to introduce for the third crop, two years of pasture, 
in place of the hay crop, making the rotation five in place of four 
years. Very few cattle are reared in the parish, and equally few 
• sheep, except on farms containing portions of the Pentland hills, 
where the Cheviot breed are kept, and on Craig Lockhart, where 
a few Leicesters are kept. On other farms, where occasionally 
turnips are consumed on ground, stock is purchased for that pur- 
pose. 

Potatoes form the greatest breadth of green crop, for which 
Edinburgh affords a near and ready market ; while it also yields 
the principal supply of manure, at about 4s. per ton, exclusive of 
toll and carriage. Of this manure, from 24 to 32 tons are gene> 
rally laid upon the acre for green crops. 

Both bone and rape dust have been tried as manures. But 
where good dung can be had it is preferable to either ; at the same 
time, when that article cannot easily be obtained, they prove valu- 
able substitutes. 

Although a great deal has already been done by deep draining 
to improve the soil, yet, as a great part of the parish is recumbent 
on clay, much may yet be done by furrow draining, and the use of 
the subsoil plough, to increase its productive powers. 

Wages, — The wages of a married ploughman per annum are, cash 
L. 16, oatmeal 65 stones, potatoes 12 cwt with four weeks' meat in 
harvest, free house and garden, and coals driven. Those able to 
stack' and sow, get L. 1 or K 2 per annum more. Farm -labour- 



i24 KDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ers receive 10s. per week in the summer, and 9s, in ?nnter. But 
old and infirm men are always to be bad for less ; and able bodied 
men wha work in quarries get higher wages. Women and boys 
who work in the fields at bowing, &c receive 9d. per day ; but in 
the time of harvest and of lifting potatoes, their wages are regulat- 
ed by the hiring market, which is held in Edinburgh every Mon- 
day morning during the season. Wrights and masons earn from 
2s. to ds. a day ; blacksmiths generally work by the piece. They 
charge L. 3 per annum for shoeing a pair of horses, and keeping 
the plough and harrow, &c in repairs. 

Leases^ 8fc* — The land is let on leases varying from twelve to nine- 
teen years; but any lease under nineteen years is unfavourable to both 
landlord and tenant, as it invariably prevents the liberal investment 
of capital in improvement. The fences are generally good, partly 
thorn hedges, partly stone dikes. The farm-steadings are mostly 
very old, with thatched or tiled roofs, affording very indifferent 
accommodation when compared with those which have been re- 
cently built. In one or two instances, however, where new stead- 
ings have been erected, more attention has been paid to comforta- 
ble accommodation, and the roofs have been slated. A steam- 
engine for driving the thrashing-mill is found at Bonally steading, 
lately erected, and belonging to Gillespie's Hospital. 

Quarries. — There are two good quarries of freestone in the parish, 
the one on the lands of Hailes, the other on those of Bedhall. In 
Hailes quarry, the stone is of a slaty structure, and divides easily into 
thin portions forming excellent materials for the steps of stairs, and 
the pavemeni of lobbies, and of the foot-ways in the streets, for which 
purposes it is very eztepsively used ; while the smaller portions are 
employed in ruble work. It is wrought to a great depth, about 90 
feet, being kept free from water by a steam-engine which was erect- 
ed in 1787, and is very productive. In 1825, when building in 
Edinburgh was pushed to a great extent, there were daily sent 
into that city from the quarry, 600 carts of stones ; and the land- 
lord, Sir Thomas Gibson Carmichael, Bart, who receives from the 
tacksman, a lordship of lis. in the pound, drew from it that 
year about L. 9000. But, in consequence of the building having 
been then overdone, for many years past not more than 60 or 70 
carts of stones a day have been sent into town, and the produce to 
the landlord at present is only about L. 1500 a year. The Red 
hall quarry is a yellowish freestone. The bare is considerabloi 
and the working expensive, so that the landlord receives only 

8 



COLINTON. 125 

6s« 8d. per pound of lordship. Neyertheless, it was actively quar- 
ried in 1825} and yielded for a season a considerable rent It has 
not been wrought for some time. A third quarry, where the stone 
resembled that found in Redhall quarry, was opened in Hailes 
grounds, opposite to the house. But, after being wrought for a 
short time, it was deserted. 

Milk. — The Water of Leith is a most serviceable drudge, and is 
by no means spared. There are at present 16 mills driven by it 
within the parish, and a seventeenth is in the course of building. 
In ten of these, flour, meal, or barley are prepared for the market ; 
in four, paper is made,— «a manufacture which has been carried on 
in the parish for more than a century ; and three manufacture 
snuff. There was some years ago a fourth, which was employed 
in grinding snuff, but it has not been used of late ; the new mill, 
which is in the course of being erected, is to be employed for that 
purpose. At one of the mills there is also machinery for grinding 
magnesia, &c ; at another, for sawing wood ; and at a third, for 
beating hemp and foreign lint. 

At Inglis Green, immediately below Slateford, there is an exceU 
lent bleachfield, under the direction of Mr M^Whirter. But the 
plan of bleaching all within 'doors prevails now so universally, that 
the bleachfield does not yield the return which is necessary to re- 
ward the industry and care for which it calls. The rents of the 
mills as well as of the quarries add very considerably to the value 
of the parish. There is a small mill-wright business at Colinton, 
giving employment to three or four hands. Spinning has almost 
wholly disappeared. Thus the old are cut off from the employ- 
ment, within the power of age and suited to its disposition, of 
** drawing out a thread wi' little din ;" which used to keep time 
from being a burden, and to supply with the necessaries of life. 
There is but one weaver in the parish, whose work is not abun- 
dant. The washing of clothes is carried on to some extent, espe- 
cially in the village of Swanston. 

With the view of stimulating to improvement in the cultivation of 
vegetables, fruits, and flowers, a Gardener's Society, which awards 
small prizes to the most successful cultivators, was instituted four 
years ago. It consists at present of 18 members, and meets in 
this parish once a fortnight from April to November. The result 
has been favourable. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Edinburgh is the nearest market-town to the parish. There is a 



126 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

post-office at CoIiDtoD, and another at Slateford, at which there are 
arrivals and departures twice a-day. Two branches of the turnpike 
road intersect the parish, — the one on the north goingon to Lanark, 
the other, on the south, joining the Biggar road at Fair-mile-head. 
Their whole length within the parish is nearly eight miles. Pa- 
rochial roads, well kept through the judicious application of the 
Statute labour money, perfect the means of communication in 
this parish. There are no tolls within the parish. The Lanark 
coach, and a noddy from Currie, pass through that portion of it 
traversed by the Lanark road. There are four bridges within the 
bounds. One on the Biggar road at Bow Bridge ; a very roman- 
tic one over Braid^burn, at the gate entering into the Dreghorn 
grounds; one over the Leith at Colinton; and the fourth over 
the same stream at'Slateford. This last was rebuilt in 1833; it 
is flat, broad in the roadway, light and handsome in its appear* 
ance, doing great credit to the gentlemen of the trust under whose 
care it was erected. The Union Canal, completing the connex- 
ion between Edinburgh and Glasgow, was opened in 1822. It 
enters the parish at Slateford, being carried over the valley of the 
water of Leith at that place, by a lofty aqueduct of eight arches, 
and it passes along the lower side of it for about two miles and 
a half. The parish by means of the Canal is supplied with coals 
from the west 

Ecclesiastical State. — A young friend has furnished me with the 
following statement concerning the antiquity of the church here : 
'^ The church of Hailes is very ancient. The lands of Hailes were 
granted to the Monks at Dunfermline by Ethelred, one of the sons of 
Malcolm Canmore, and confirmed to them by his brother, David L 
and by Pope Gregory in 1234. The vicarage of Hailes, (for, not be- 
ing held by the occupying incumbent, but by a bishop, it was never 
a rectory,) was taken from these monks, and given first to the Ca- 
nons at Holyrood and then to the Canons of St Anthony at Leith, 
and confirmed by the famous Bishop Kennedy of. St Andrews in 
1445. This piece of prelatical revenge, as the story goes, was 
occasioned by these monks not having furnished the Bishop's table 
with wine when he sojourned with them at the Abbey. The su- 
periority of the lands of Wester Hailes remained with the canons 
till the Reformation : that of Easter Hailes remained with the 
monks of Dunfermline till the same period. The lands seem to 
have been the property of Lord Crichton, and to have been for- 



COLINTON. 127 

feited in 1484. The tithes at one time belonged to Lord Car- 
lyle." — (See Reg. St Andrews and Parliam. Bee.) 

The patronage of this church was long held by the femily of 
Lauderdale, but how it came into their hands I cannot learn. They 
never seem to have had property in the parish. 1661, April 9. — 
An act was passed in favour of John, Earl of Lauderdale, restor- 
ing what had been taken from him during the period of the Com- 
monwealth, on which occasion Sir James Foulis of Collingtoun 
protests, ^* that this shall be in nowise prejudicial to his rights 
anent the patronage of the kirk of Hailes or Collingtoun." — (Acts 
of Scot. Pari.) — " Collingtoun protested that this should not pre- 
judge bis right to the town of Hailes." — ( App.) This patronage 
was sold by Lord Lauderdale in 1828 to the Patronage Society 
for the large sum of L. 2000. The price was paid by a num- 
ber of gentlemen, who held the patronage as their security. The 
society, with its auxiliaries, had raised, it is understood, L. 1500, 
when the General Assembly, in 1835, passed the Act upon Calls, 
which soon put an end to the labours of that society. Some of the 
gentlemen who had advanced the money having become anxious 
to have the whole repaid, the patronage was again advertised for 
sale, and it has been bought for something more than L. 400 by 
Mr Dunlop of Brockloch, in Ayrshire. 

Some have stated, on what grounds I know not, that the church 
once stood where the mansion-house of Hailes at present stands. 
It has long, however, occupied a more humble and more beautiful 
position. It stands, and has stood since 1650, on a piece of ground 
by which the stream winds beautifully, and which is sheltered and 
adorned by the high and wooded banks belonging to Colinton House. 
In 1771, the old church having become quite ruinous, it was rebuilt 
in a plain manner. In 1817, it was found necessary to put a new 
roof on the church, and to raise the walls four feet This was done 
at a considerable expense. In 1 835, the whole seating of the church 
requiring to be renewed, and the accommodation being much too 
small for the population, (it contained only 470 sittings), it was 
proposed to enlarge as well as to reseat it After some delay, 
necessarily arising out of the various arrangements which re- 
quired to be made, the plan was happily accomplished, and the 
church was reopened for public worship on the 3 1st December 
1837. David Bryce, Esq. architect, Edinburgh, gave the plans 
and superintended fhe erection. The external appearance is neat, 
though very plain ; while internally it has a light and elegant look, 



1 28 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

which gives universal satisfaction. The church is now seated for 
about 664. A heating apparatus has been fitted up in it by Mr 
Robert Ritchie, Edinburgh, which is found effectually to answer 
the end proposed. The tower also, which was too low for the 
church, has been raised according to a plan kindly furnished gratis, 
by Mr Bryce, and adds greatly to the appearance of the whole. 
The heritors alone paid for the repairs on the church ; but the 
raising of the tower and the heating apparatus were obtained by 
means of a subscription. A new bell has since been added, com* 
pleting the arrangements. The sittings of the church are divided 
among the heritors as usual. But the sittings employed at the 
time of the communion for that service are left in the hands of the 
kirk-session for the benefit of the people ; of these there are about 
80. Four silver cups belong to the kirk-session for the use of 
the parish, at the dispensation of the Lord's Supper ; two were 
purchased in 1680, and two were given by the widow of Dr Wal- 
ker in 1808. Two damask towels are also in the possession of 
the session given in 1706, by David Pitcaim of Dreghorn, on his 
getting a seat in church, and a burial-ground assigned to him. At the 
opening of the church in 1837, there were presented two beauti- 
ful damask towels to be used at baptisms, by one lady, and a 
beautiful damask table-cloth with two towels corresponding, to be 
used in dispensing the communion, by another lady ; as is fully 
narrated in the session records. The position of the church is 
sufficiently centrical for the population of the parish, nobody be- 
ing at a greater distance than two and a half miles. There are 
two benefactions to the parish, proper to be here noticed. The 
late Samuel Anderson of Moredun, Esq. after residing some time 
at Hailes, placed in the hands of the kirk-session L. 100, with 
directions to expend the interest thereof at every returning new 
year, on meal, to be divided among the industrious poor. And 
the late Rev. John Fleming of Craigs, minister [of Colinton, left 
a sum for the education of poor children, which, after deducting 
charges, amounted to L. 216. The money is in the custody of 
the kirk-session, the patronage in the hands of those five tenants 
who pay the highest rents. 

The present manse was built for Dr Walker, in 1784 ; was re- 
paired, altered, and had new offices erected, while Mr Fleming 
held the cure; and, being too small for the accommodation of a 
family, had a very useful addition made to it 'during the last va- 
cancy. It now forms a very comfortable dwelling. It is beauti- 



COLINTOK. 129 

fully situated on a flat piece of ground lying between the church 
and the river, and extending to about three-quarters of a Scots 
acre. The glebe, which is at a short distance from the manse, 
consists of about 7 acres, 3 roods, 20 poles, and is at present 
let at L. 27 per annum. The stipend consists of wheat, 92 
bushels, 3 pecks, 7^% pints : barley^ 355 bushels, 1 peck, 1 gallon, 
5/^ pints; oats, 573 bushels, 3 pecks, 1 gallon, 5^^^ pints ; meal, 
33 cwt. 32 lbs. 13 oz. lj% dwt. ; and money, L. 20, 3s. 6jgd. The 
average value of the whole for the last ten years is L. 221. 

There is a chapel at Slateford connected with the United As* 
sociate Synod. It was built in 1774, and is seated for 520. There 
is a dwelling-house and garden prettily situated on the river side 
appropriated to the use of the minister. His allowance, which is 
chiefly drawn from the seat rents, is L. 130 per annum. The 
debt upon the house is about L. 200, but there is no wish on the 
part of the managers to have this diminished. 

The number of families in the parish is 440; of these, 269 
are connected with the church, or placed under its superinten- 
dence. The Lord's supper is dispensed in the parish church twice 
a-year, and the number of communicants at the summer sacra- 
ment is about 340. There are 171 families connected with 
Dissenters ; of these, 4 belong to the Episcopal communion, 
3 are Papists, 1 is Independent, and the remainder are connect- 
ed with one or other of the bodies denominated Seceders. It is 
stated that 323 individuals above twelve years of age in this pa- 
rish belong to the congregation at Slateford. According to the 
usual mode of providing seat-room for the population, this would 
show that 216 sittings were held by inhabitants of Colinton pa- 
rish, thus leaving 304 to be supplied from other parts of the 
country. It is understood, however, that the house is not fully let. 

The remainder of the Seceders in the parish betake themselves 
to various places of worship in Edinburgh ; one great evil result- 
ing from which is, that, of necessity, they are left without pastoral 
superintendence, as sheep having no shepherd. Not long ago one 
individual in this parish was visited by his minister ; ^^ Come awa, 
Sir," was the salutation with which the minister was welcomed, 
*^ it is the first time these forty years. But do not think that I 
have been neglected a' that time. I have enjoyed many a visit 
from our parish minister." It has, indeed, ever been the steady aim 
of the present incumbent to minister parochially. All within the 
bounds of his parish he considers as placed under his care, and, 

EDINBURGH. I 



130 ^DINBURGHSHIRR. 

amid much weakness and imperfection, he extends his attentions 
to all who are willing to receive them, — his one aim being to bring 
all to the Great Shepherd of the Sheep, the Lord Jesus Christ* 
He has the satisfaction of adding that during the thirty-two years 
in which he has been allowed to be put in trust with the Gospel, 
he has met with uniform kindness from his parishioners, by what- 
ever name they have been distinguished. 

The number of individuals connected with the Dissenters in 
this parish is 658, the number left entirely under the charge of 
the church is 1324. Of these, some attend at Currie church, a 
few go into town, and a number, it is to be feared, go nowhere. 
The church was long exceedingly ill attended in winter, its cold- 
ness being pleaded as an excuse. In summer it is well filled, but 
it must with sorrow be acknowledged, that the hurtful and un- 
christian practice of attending public worship in the forenoon only, 
too generally pervades all classes of society. 

There is a Bible Society in the parish, which has \6ng existed ; 
it is auxiliary to the Edinburgh Bible Society, but its exertions 
are very limited. Its contributions amount at present only to about 
L.12 a-year. Connected with the chapel at Slateford is a Con- 
gregational Society for Religious Purposes. 

The average amount of collections for religious and charitable 
purposes is L. 7, 16s. 5d., for the five years preceding 1886. 

Education. — There are one parochial school, and six private 
schools in the parish. The parochial school stood originally ^^ at 
the minister's yett," and bore above its entry these words, ^' out 
doce^ aut duce^ out abu^ It was rebuilt at a great expense in 
1815, in a fine healthy situation above the village. The mas- 
ter, besides teaching English, writing, geometry, arithmetic, and 
geography, is qualified to teach Latin, Greek, and French. He 
has the le^al accommodations, the maximum salary of L.34, and 
generally from 90 to 100 scholars, yielding about L. 40 of fees. 
In the liberal spirit of Christian benevolence, the present master, 
Robert Hunter, A. M. bears a very considerable proportion of that 
burden of instructing the poor, which would otherwise fall to be 
borne by the kirk-session. He also holds the offices of session- 
clerk, of clerk to the heritors, and of postmaster at Colinton, while 
he is employed to collect the parochial assessments. 

Three of the private schools receive aid more or less, so 
that the teachers do not altogether depend upon the school 
fees. The remaining three are supported merely by the feds. In 



COLINTON. 131 

these schools English and writing are taught, and in two a little 
arithmetic is added. There are not above two or three grown up 
persons in the parish who cannot read. It is to be feared, however, 
that the instruction received in youth is sometimes so far neglected 
in afler years, as to render reading a labour rather than a pleasure. 
The people in general are desirous to have their children instructed, 
and there is no house in the parish that is two miles distant from a 
school. There are generally 238 children enrolled at the schools 
within the parish, and there may be about 30 more who attend 
schools in neighbouring parishes. 

There are five Sabbath-evening schools taught in the parish, 
one in each of the principal villages ; and a tract ^^ the Monthly 
Visitor," is left with every family in the parish, once a month. 

Libraries* — There are two libraries in the parish, one in Colin- 
ton village, kept in the parish school, which has been shut for many 
years, but steps are now taking to make it available to the public ; 
the other is at Slateford, under the charge chiefly of the kirk- 
session of the chapel there; but it is to be regretted that the 
volumes most frequently asked for are those that minister to amuse- 
ment rather than to edification. There is also a small library 
connected with the parish school, the gift of a friend, the books in 
which are lent to the advanced children as a reward for diligence 
in their studies. Those who are entitled to receive books pay to 
the library one penny per quarter. 

Friendb/ Societies, — There are two Friendly Societies in the parish 
which provide for the support of their members when laid aside from 
work by disease or accident, &c. The Old Society, established in 
1801, allows to its sick members 4s. per week for the first thirteen 
weeks, 2s. for the next twenty-six weeks, and Is*. 6d a-week for 
the rest of the time they are ofi^ work ; it also allows L.3 for the 
burial of the man, and L. 2 for the burial of the wife, while it gives, 
if the funds will allow, iOs. a-year to the widow. It has 50 mem- 
bers. 

The New Society was established in 1814, and had its rules new 
modelled in 1829, according to the suggestions thrown out by the 
Highland Society, and approved of in terms of the Act of Parlia- 
ment on that subject. The allowances made by this society to its 
members are, 5s. a-week for the first year in which they are 
by sickness unfitted for gaining their bread ; ds. 6d. per week 
for the second year ; and thereafter 2s. 6d. per week so long 
as they shall require it ; an allowance is made of L.5 for the fune« 



132 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ral of the member, and L.d for that of bis wife ; but should he die 
unmarried, his heirs are allowed the whole L.8 for his funeral 
charges. This society has 300 members, and its stock amounts 
to L.1000. The Old Society requires from 58* to )0s. 6d> entry 
money according to the age, and 2s. a-quarter, with Is. additional 
in the year in support of widows' annuities, from its members ; the 
new takes ds. 6d. of entry money, and 2s. a-quarter, reserving the 
power of raising the latter if needful. These Societies are a very 
great advantage to all who are wise enough to avail themselves of 
their aid. 

Poor. — The average number of poor for the five years end- 
ing February 1837, was 41. Some of these, however, had wives, 
others children, dependent on them. The average allowance 
given to these was L. 4, 88. 9|d. per annum. Besides, there 
were two lunatic paupers, not always in confinement, but whose 
aliment during the period referred to amounted to L. 137, 16s. 8d. 
The funds affording those supplies were assessments averaging per 
annum, L. 182; collections, L. 35, 12s. 8d.; mortcloth*dues» 
L. 11, 8s.; marriage fees^ L. 1, 10s. 10^.; funds from other 
sources, L.5, 17s. 3^d,; total, L.236, 8s. lOd. These funds^ 
however, covered also the expense of the church affairs, and va« 
rious other items which the kirk-session undertake for the heri- 
tors. The poor have also a cart of coals at the new year, defray- 
ed by a collection made for the purpose ; and a portion of the 
meal mentioned as Mr Anderson's benefaction. The people are 
not unwilling to receive parochial aid, and many would rather 
leave their relatives a burden on the public, than lessen in the 
least their own comforts. But to this there are honourable ex- 
ceptions. 

Alehouses. — There are at present 14 public-houses in the pa- 
rish, — a number much greater than is required for the real wants 
of the people, and therefore truly hurtful to them. 

Fuel. — Coal is the only fuel used in the parish. It comes 
to us along the Union Canal, or from the fields of coal which lie 
to the south-east The price for the ton of 20 cwt. brought to 
Colinton village may be stated from 14s. to 18s., according to the 
kind required. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The cultivation of the parish, since the last Statistical Ac- 
count was written, has been greatly improved, and is generally 
carried on with activity and intelligence. Considerable changes 

4 



KIttKLISTON. 133 

have taken place in the various manufactures then existing in 
the parish. The distillery has disappeared ; the skinnery ! its 
very name is lost, having given place to the more poetical de- 
signation of Laverock dale ; the magnesia manufactory is in 
ruins; the noise of the wauk-mill no longer reminds the pas- 
senger of its existence ; and the mill for beating flax is, compa- 
ratively speaking, in little use. Still the parish flourishes ; the po- 
pulation has increased ; the rental has improved ; and could a little 
more of that right^hearted prudence which inclines, and, through 
God's blessing, enables man to value and steadily comply with the 
counsels of heavenly truth, be infused into the bosom of the gene- 
rality of the people, they would be blessed indeed. 

Drawn up November 1838. 
Revised October 1839. 



PARISH OF KIRKLISTON. 

PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND. 

TWBBDDALB. 

THE REV. ADAM DUNCAN TAIT, MINISTER. 



I. — ToPOaRAPHY AND NATURAL HiSTORY. 

The parish of Kirkliston lies partly in the county of Linlithgow ; 
partly in that of Edinburgh. The river Almond forms the boundary 
between the two counties, through the whole extent of the parish ; 
and the south-eastern portion, lying in the county of Edinburgh, 
is about one-fourth of the whole. 

Name, — The ancient name was Temple Listen. Of the com- 
pound Liston there are several instances, in the names of places 
in the parish, as Old Liston^ New Liston^ Over New Liston, Hal 
lAstonj Eliston or II Listen or High Liston, and Kirk Liston, the 
last being the name of the principal village, and of the parish. 
The etymology of the word Liston is uncertain. There is an old 
tradition, that a large district of country around was, at a remote 
period, possessed by a distinguished family of that name, and that 
this circumstance gave its name to the parish. But it is said, that 
the term Lioston signi6^s in Celtic an inclosure on the side of a ri* 



134 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Y6r, and it is not unlikely that this may be the true origin of the 
name of the parish. 

Extentj Sfc* — The extent of the parish, in length, from east to 
west, is 5^ miles; its breadth from north to south, about 4 J miles. 
It contains 12.007 square miles. The figure is an irregular square. 

Boundaries* — It is bounded by the following parishes^ viz. on the 
north and north-east, by Dalmeny ; north and north -west, Abercom; 
west, Ecclesmachen ; and a detached portion of Dalmeny, named 
Auldcathie; west and south-west, Uphall; south-west, Midcalder; 
south, Kirknewton and Ratho ; east, Corstorphine and Cramond. 
There is a portion of the parish, entirely separate, named Listen 
Shiels, lying on the slope of Pentland hills, which was annexed, 
quoad sacroj many years ago, to the parish of Kirknewton. This 
portion of the parish is bounded on the east and south-east by 
Pennicuik ; on the north and north-east, by Currie ; on the west 
by Midcalder; on the south by Linton, lying in the county of 
Peebles. 

Meteorology. — The average temperature for the »ix years com- 
mencing with 1832, is as under. 

1832 ISaS 1834 1835 1836 1837 
45^ 44| 46 44^ 43^ 43| * 

Climate. — The prevailing winds are west and south-west. 
The climate may be termed good, compared with that of a large 
portion of Scotland. There are no distempers peculiar to the dis- 
trict, and the parish may be said to be decidedly healthy : but it 
is worthy of remark, that in the small village of Newbridge, which 
contained at the time just 65 inhabitants, situated eight miles from 
Edinburgh, on the middle turnpike road to Glasgow, the morta- 
lity, by cholera, in April 1832, wag greater than in any part of the 
county of Linlithgow, eleven deaths having occurred in the course 
of ten days 

Hydrography. — Springs of all sorts are abundant, flowing from 
whinstone, limestone, gravel, or layers of sand : many of these are 
highly impregnated with lime and iron, some with magnesia. 

The river Almond, which takes its rise in Lanarkshire, flows 
through this parish, entering it at the south-western extremity, 
and flowing in a circuitous course, of about 4^ miles, to the vil- 
lage of Kirkliston, which stands on a bank immediately overhang- 
ing it Its course from thence is to the north-eastward, about a 
mile and a-half, when it passes into the parish of Cramond, and 

* This ayerage is taken from daily observations in the morning and evening. 



KIRKLISTON. 135 

falls into the Frith of Forth, at that yillage. Its bed is broad, 
and in many parts rocky ; its depth varies considerably. After 
rainy weather, especially with a strong south-west wind, it overflows 
its banks frequently to a great extent, and, in consequence of this, 
large tracts of valuable land in this parish, on both sides, were of- 
ten much injured. 

As a remedy for this evil, very strong and high embankments 
have lately been raised, at a great expense, by the proprietors of 
the lands along its margin, and by the trustees of the Edinburgh 
and Linlithgow turnpike road, and the river may now be said to 
be kept within limits. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The minerals in this parish are re- 
ferable to the secondary and alluvial classes. The secondary 
rocks, which belong to the carboniferous system, are chiefly sand- 
stone, limestone, and trap or whinstone. No coal has been met 
with, although some of the coal metals, as ironstone and bitumi- 
nous shale or blaes, occur. The strata dip to the north and north- 
west, and vary in thickness. 

In some parts of the parish, a bastard limestone occurs, of no 
value as lime, and very unkindly to the mason's tools, but furnish- 
ing a useful stone for building. 

Many trials have been made for coal to a great depth, but with- 
out success. It is supposed, however, that there must be coal, al- 
though lying too deep for being wrought, — as ironstone and bitu- 
minous shale or*blaes occur in abundance, under a bed of rock, 
in quality and thickness similar to that over the coal at Borro- 
stownness, and called the roof. 

The only alluvial deposits are to be found on the sides of the 
Almond, which consist chiefly of gravel, sand, and loam. Through- 
out the parish, soils of different kinds are to be found. But it 
may be said that the prevailing soil varies from a strong clay to 
a rich black mould. 

Zoology. — Under this head, it may be stated, that when the line 
of the Union Canal was dug through the estate of Clifton Hall, 
about twenty years ago, a tusk of a Mammoth was found, nearly five 
feet long, about twenty-five feet under the surface of the ground, 
firmly imbedded in blue till, or tilly clay, in good preservation. A 
description and figure of this very interesting specimen will be found 
in the Memoirs of the Wernerian Natural History Society. 

Botany. — The following list of rare plants growing in the pa- 



136 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

rish and neighbouring district of the country may be acceptable 
to the reader. 

Symphytum officinale, oommoa com- PiluUrla globulifera, pepper grass, at 

frey, road-side to the south of Dun- Philpston Loch. 

tarvie. Ophioglossuin vulgatunii adder*s toogue, 

Adoxa nioscbatellina^ tuberous-rooted ud Drumshoreland Muir. 

moschatel, near an old mill, on the Asplenium trichomanes, common maiden- 
banks of the Almond, Clifton Hall. hair spleenwort, in Newliston woods. 
Euphorbia ezigua, in corn-fields, to the Asplenium ruta muraria, wall rue, in 

north-east of Carlowrie. Newliston woods. 
Lychnis viscaria, viscous catch-fly, on 

Dundas HilL Fukgi. 

Potentillaargentea,silverycinquefoiI, on Agaricus procerus, tall mushroom, at 

Craig Brae, Duudas. Carlowrie. 

Scutellaria galcriculata, common skull* Agaricus cristatus, at Foihall. 

cap« on Dundas Hill. Cantharellus cibarius, truffle, at Fozhall. 

Malva moschata^ marsh-mallow, on the Helvetia mitra, at Foxhall, 

banks of the Almond. ._• leucophsea, at Fozhall. 

Genista tinctoria, dyer^s broom, on Drum- Morchella esculenta, common eatable 

shoreland Muir. morelle, at Fozhall. 

Hypericum humifusum, trailing St Morchella hybrida, at Fozhall. 

John's wort, in a plantation on the 

east of Craig Brae. 

In the garden of Carlowrie, the property of David Falconar, 
Esq. there is a large and beautiful collection of rare plants. 

II. — Civil History. 
Eminent Men, — Among eminent characters connected with the 

parish, may be mentioned Skene of Hallyards, unhappily distinguish- 
ed by his zeal in persecuting the Covenanters. — Reid, who suffer- 
ed in their cause — the celebrated John, Earl of Stair, who inhe- 
rited from his mother the estate of Newliston. — Andrew Dalzel^ 
Professor of Greek in the University of Edinburgh, — and the Right 
Honourable Sir Robert Listen, lately deceased. Respecting Pro- 
fessor Dalzel, it may be worthy of remark, that he was the son of 
a man distinguished by his knowledge of agriculture, who came to 
this parish at the special desire of the Earl of Stair, when he, on 
returning from public life, was beginning to direct his attention to 
the improvement of his estate ; and under his direction, the mode 
of ploughing in common use in the low countries, viz. by two horses 
or two oxen, was adopted on his Lordship's estate, in room of the 
old Scotch mode of ploughing, viz. by six, or eight, or sometimes 
twelve oxen. Under his superintendence, likewise, the first ex- 
ample in Scotland was given on the estate of Newliston, of the 
planting of cabbages, potatoes, and turnips in the fields. The 
mother of the Professor was a daughter of the proprietor of Linns 
Mill, in the south-western extremity of the parish, now part of the 
estate of Clifton Hall. Andrew Dalzel, and Sir Robert Liston, 
so deservedly eminent for his ability and success in diplomatic ser- 



KIRKLISTON. 137 

vices, were born, the former on the 6th, the latter on the 8th of 
October 1742. The houses of their parents were only about half 
a mile apart, and they both received the elements of education at 
the parochial school of Kirkliston, then under the charge of Mr 
John Hastie, of whose talents and eminence as a teacher, Sir Ro- 
bert Listen was wont frequently, to the very latest years of his 
life, to speak in terms of high commendation. 

Chief Land-owners. — These are, the Earl of Hopetoun ; Mr 
Hog of Newliston ; Mr Dundas of Dundas ; Mr Falconar of Car« 
lowrie ; Mr Cameron of Foxhall (anciently) Todshaugh ; Mr 
Ramsay of Barnton ; Sir Alexander Charles Maitland Gibson of 
Clifton Hall; Sir James Gibson- Craig of Riccarton; Mr Coch- 
ran Wishart Baillie of Lamingtou. The five first mentioned pos- 
sess the part of the parish lying in the county of Linlithgow ; the 
four last mentioned, possess that portion lying in the county of 
Edinburgh. 

The valued rent of the parish is L. 12846, 18s. Scots, where- 
of more than two*fifths belong to the Earl of Hopetoun, and near- 
ly one-fifth to Mr Hog. 

Parochial Registers. — These are of four classes : — 1. The Mi- 
nutes of Session ; 2. The Minutes of Heritors' Meetings ; 3. The 
Lists of Baptisms, Marriages, and Deaths ; 4. The Accounts re- 
lative to the Poor's Funds. Of the first class of records, the ear- 
liest voliftne commences in 1647^ and there are six other volumes, 
the latest commencing in 1817 ; of the second class, there are two 
volumes, the former commencing in 1692, the latter in 1785; of the 
third class, the earliest volume commences in 1675, and there are 
five other volumes, the latest commencing in 1817, but there is 
no record of deaths prior to 1816; of the last class, the earliest 
volume commences in 1712, prior to which period, the accounts 
relative to the poor's funds were all engrossed in the minutes of 
session, and there are five other volumes, the last commencing 
in 1621. All these volumes, with the exception of the first and 
fourth, of the first class, are in a tolerably good state of preser- 
vation, and from the earliest period, the records seem to have been 
carefully kept 

Antiquities. — At Lochend, near Newbridge, in the county of 
Edinburgh, some large stones are set up, where a battle was fought 
in the year 995, between Kenneth, the natural brother of Mal- 
colm, second King of Scotland, and commander of his forces, and 
Constantine, the usurper of the Crown. About a mile and a half 



138 EDINBUBGHSUIRE. 

to the westward of Newbridge, several large stone coffins have been, 
from time to time, discovered. Farther down the course of the 
Almond, nearly two miles, on the property of Mr Ramsey of Baro- 
ton, a solitary monumental stone has been erected, in memory of 
the same battle, named Catttanej supposed to be a corruption of 
Constantine^ and to have been erected to the honour of Constan- 
tino, one of the commanders in the same engagement, .who was 
there slain and interred. When the turnpike road by Loanhead 
was cut through, spurs and heads of spears were found under ^the 
surface of the ground. 

It is a well-ascertained fact, that Edward I. of England, when 
marching to Falkirk, where he completely vanquished the Scot- 
tish troops, on the 22d of July 1298, lay for some time with his 
army close to the village of Kirkliston. The field in which, ac- 
cording to common tradition, the King^s tent was pitched, is im- 
mediately to the south-west of the village, on the property of New- 
listen. 

On the estate of Clifton Hall has been found an urn of burnt 
clay, containing ashes ; and the shape and size of two flat stones 
within it, seemed to indicate that a heart had been therein depo- 
sited. 

In the village of Clifton, under the foundation stone of an old 
cot-house, was found a Pig or Pipkin of burnt clay, with a small 
opening, just sufficient to admit one coin at a time. It contained 
between 300 and 400 silver coins, partly Scotch, partly Eng- 
lish. In a separate field, on the line of the Canal, and on the pro- 
perty of Clifton Hall, was found a gold coin, in excellent preser- 
vation, about fifteen feet under the surface, bearing the inscrip- 
tion Robertus IL Rex Scotorum^ 

Beneath a large whinstone, immediately under the surface, a 
Druidical axe was discovered, in good preservation, quite sharp, 
apparently hidden under the stone. 

In the south-west corner of the parish, on the estate of the Earl 
of Hopetoun, there is a baronial residence, evidently of great an- 
tiquity, named EListan or // LtstoUf supposed to be a corruption 
of High Listouj which is said to have been, in ancient times, a 
hunting castle of the Kings of Scotland. James IL and James IV. 
are both said to have used it as such. 

About two miles to the westward of the village of Kirkliston, a 
little to the south of the Edinburgh and Linlithgow turnpike road, 
stands Niddry Castle^ a fine old ruin, at one time possessed by the 



KIRKLISTON. 139 

Earls of Wintoun, now the property of the Earl of Hopetoun. 
Queen Mary of Scotland rested, and is said to have slept there, 
when on her flight from Lochleven to join her adherents at Ha- 
milton, on the 2d of May 1568. 

Among some old trees at Linn's Mill, close to Clifton Hall, 
there is a tombstone in good preservation, bearing the date of 
1645 : it is that of a proprietor of Linn's Mill, in whose family it 
had been for 300 years. The individual, over whose grave the 
stone is placed, is said to have been the last man who died in 
Scotland of the plague. 

Modem Buildings. — Of these the chief is the mansion-house of 
Newliston, the seat of James Maitland Hog, Esq. a large and com- 
modious family residence, built about forty-flve years ago. 

In the western extremity of the village of Kirkliston, a distil- 
lery was erected twenty years ago. 

in. — Population. 
There are no means of determining what may have been the 

ancient state of the parish in regard to population. 

By return made to Dr Webster in 1755, the population was 1461 
By former Statistical Account in 1792, - 1504 

By Parliamentary census taken in 1801, - 1647 

1811, - 1682 

1821, - 2218 

1831, . 2265 

The great increase of population since 1811 is supposed to have 
been owing to the extraordinary number of labourers, chiefly Irish- 
men, who were employed in the parish in the years 1818, 1819, 
1820, and 1821, in the construction of the Union Canal, many of 
whom became, fro.m that time, settled inhabitants. 

Number of inhabitants residing in villages and in the country : — 
Kirkliston village, 600; Winch burgh, 165; Newbridge, 90; 
Gogar Stane, 60; Niddry, 66; Clifton, 40; Newhouses, 20; 
total 1030; in the country, 1236; total 2266. 

The average of births cannot be exactly ascertained, as the duty 
of inserting the names of their children in the parish register has 
been for many years greatly neglected by parents ; in this respect, 
however, a decided improvement is beginning now to take place. 
The following is a statement of the number of children baptized 
in the Established Church, in public and private, during the seven 
years beginning 1831 : — 

1831, 1832, 1833, 1884» 1835, 1836, 1837, 
.54 50 46 48 42 37 41 

Average of deaths from the parish obituary : — 



1830, 


1831, 


1832, 


1833, 


1834, 


1835, 


1836, 


19 


24 


35 


33 


30 


18 


33 



140 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Average of marriages from the parish record of proclamation 
of banns : — 



1881, 


18d2, 


1883, 


1884» 


1885, 


1836, 


1837, 


19 


14 


6 


14 


18 


16 


18 



The number of families of independent fortune, statedly or oc- 
casionally resident in the parish, 4. 

1 insane and 1 fatuous person reside in the parish ; 2 deaf and 
dumb, and 1 blind. 

Number of illegitimate births during the last three years, 16. 

Habits and Character of the People. — On the estate of Clifton 
Hall, especially, several cottages have been built on a remarkably 
neat plan, and most of them are kept in excellent order, by (be 
families living in them ; in other parts of the parish likewise, se- 
veral places might be speciGed, where habits of cleanliness seem 
evidently to prevail. But it is to be regretted that this is by no 
means universal. The larger villages, and especially that of Kirk- 
liston, are very deficient in this respect. There are in this village 
several houses, recently built, and these are generally kept in a 
clean and neat condition ; but in many of the old houses, the ha- 
bits of the families are still very far behind the standard which, 
in this part of the country, ought certainly to be reached by all ; 
and there is little perceptible approach to it. On the whole, the 
people of the parish enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the comforts of 
social life, and are contented with their circumstances. Outward 
decency of conduct is generally maintained by them — but it is to 
be feared that here, as in other parts of the coxintry, the low price 
of spirituous liquors has been productive of most pernicious con- 
sequences, in regard to the moral habits of the people. 

IV. — Industry. 

The number of farms in the parish is 30 ; the number of farm- 
servants, statedly employed in the management of these, is about 
140. There are 1 1 wrights ; 9 smiths ; 5 tailors ; 8 shoemakers ; 
5 grocers ; 2 candlemakers ; 4 bakers. There is one medical 
gentleman in the parish. 

Agriculture. — The number of acres, standard imperial measure, 
in the parish, is 7722, of which the whole may be said to be cul- 
tivated, or in plantations, or in permanent pasture, with the ex- 
ception, perhaps, of a small quantity of waste land on the detached 
farm of Listen Shiels. The plantations are not extensive ; on the 
lands of Newliston, Clifton Hall, Carlowrie, Fox hall, Niddry and 
Humbie, there is a good deal of old timber, and over various dis- 



KIRKLISTON. 141 

tricts of the parish, there are a few fine trees to be found in groupes, 
which point out where mansion-houses have anciently stood. Of 
young wood, there is only a small quantity. There is little per- 
manent pasture — none, indeed, if we except the lawns around the 
mansion-houses, and the margin of the river Almond. The pre- 
vailing sorts of trees are, beech, ash, ehn, arid fir; there are few 
oaks, and, except in young plantations, little larch. 

AncieiU state of Husbandry. — A hundred years ago, there was 
no enclosed ground in the parish, except the gardens of the pro- 
prietors, the kail-yards of the tenants, and the church-yard. The 
boundaries of property were marked by pit-stones, or in particular 
placet by a cairn of stones gathered from the surface of the soil : 
the division of a farm, if visible at all, was described by a bank or 
gawfar^ and except in seeding or reaping, marches were little re- 
garded ; for after the removal of the crop, the cattle were allowed 
to range at will— this was termed hmg-hdlter. About this period, 
a considerable breadth of land around the village of Kirkliston lay 
in ruU'riffy that is, in small divisions or lots, each of which had its 
peculiar name, and several of these, lying far apart from each 
other, were frequently occupied by the same individual. The first 
approach towards forming fields in the parish was the adjustment 
of these small, and irregularly-divided lots, into compact portions. 
About this period, the celebrated John Earl of Stair, whose pub- 
lic life fills so important a page of the history of his country, ren- 
dered essential service to the improvement of agriculture in this 
parish. Having succeeded, on the death of his mother, to the 
estate of Newliston, he came to reside there, about the year 1725, 
and devoted much of his attention to the improving and beautify- 
ing of it. The pleasure-grounds around the mansion house of New- 
liston, comprehending about 70 acres Scots measure, and a large 
extent of ground beyond these limits, containing altogether about. 
250 acres, were laid out and planted by him ; and although the 
tastes and ideas of a military life seem evidently to have guided 
him in the whole design, more than the study of natural beauty, 
yet, unquestionably, the effect of the entire plan is both striking 
and pleasing. He cultivated chiefly by spade husbandry, and he 
had about 200 workmen almost constantly employed on his grounds. 

At a considerably later period, viz. about the year 1767, a large 
district of the parish was arranged in farms, all of which were 
small, and the enclosing of fields became general. About this 
time also, regular leases began to be granted, generally for a long 



142 EDmBURGHSUIRB. 

period, such as two or three nineteens. In these agreements the 
only stipulations were — the payment of the rent (a large propor- 
tion in kind,) the furnishing of carriages and capons, thirlage to 
a corn-mill, some improvement in the enclosing of the land, or 
the payment of a small grassum at the commencement of the 
lease. As to the course of cropping, the only requirement was, 
that the land should be farmed according to the rules of good 
husbandry. About this period the agriculture of this parish was 
greatly improved by the example of Mr John Allan, tenant in 
Loanhead, a farmer in the immediate vicinity of the village of Kirk- 
liston. He was decidedly the best corn farmer in his day, and 
was the first to introduce a regular rotation of cropping, viz. naked 
fellow, wheat or oats, beans, barley, grass, oats, the rotation best 
adapted to strong soils, yet known. The use of foreign manure 
was introduced by him into the parish. At a later period, Mr 
Wilkie of Ormiston Hill, who rented two farms in the parish, the 
property of the Earl of Hopetoun, contributed eminently to the 
furtherance of improvement, by extensive drainage, and a judici- 
ous mode of cultivation. His maxim in farming was, ^^ dry land be- 
fore cropping it," — he introduced the four and five*shift rotation, 
always resting the land in pasture when in a clean state. 

Rent of Land, — The average rent of land may be stated at 
L. 2, 5s. per Scots acre. The real rent of the parish is about 
L. 14,000 per annum. 

Price of Labour, — The great proportion of farm labour is paid 
for by half yearly or weekly wages ; drainage and work on fences, 
only, is let by contract The wages of farm-servants are on an 
average, all things included, L.26 or L. 27 per annum. Able- 
bodied day-labourers earn from 9s. tolls, per week; wrights, 2s. 6d. 
per day ; masons, 3s. ; slaters, 8s. or ds. 6d. Smithy work is fre- 
quently contracted for, and often also charged at a price per article. 

Breeds of Cattle. — The land is generally so valuable in quality 
that the farmers do not find it for their interest to breed cattle ; 
of late, however, they are turning their attention more than for* 
merly to this branch of farming. Another reason which may have 
rendered them less anxious about breeding, is the vicinity to Fal- 
kirk market, where the fields and stalls are supplied with bullocks 
from the shires of Aberdeen, Inverness, and Argyle. Ayrshire 
cows are generally used for the dairy. The breed of cattle is a 
cross between Teeswater and Ayrshire. The breed of sheep is 
confined to the black-faced, Cheviot, and Leicester, with crosses 

8 



KIRKLISTON. 143 

between each of these sorts. Of sheep there is little stock kept 
— ^they are chiefly fattened. Sheep pasturage is yearly increasing 
throughout the parish, and wherever the soil admits, the sheep 
are fed with turnips on the grounds — this, with the free use of 
lime, has produced pastures of the first order. 

Husbandry. — The general character of the husbandry is good. 
On some of the farms, especially the larger, it is of first-rate ex- 
cellence, certainly equal to any style of farming in Scotland. 
About three-fourths of the land is stiff, with a large admixture of 
clay, and upon a retentive subsoil, and is better adapted to the 
cultivation of wheat and beans than turnips. As a remedy for this, 
drainage has been extensively employed both in the way of deep 
cutting, and of close or furrow-draining ; and these plans have 
been attended with such success, that turnips are now grown in si- 
tuations in which it would formerly have been reckoned quite im- 
possible to cultivate light green crops, and the five-shift rotation 
is becoming every year more general. The use of the various 
most approved manures is now very common, and is producing a 
marked improvement in the culture of the soil, such as rape-cake, 
bone-dust, soot, and the common manures from Edinburgh. These, 
coupled with large quantities of oil-cake, given to feeding cattle, 
greatly enrich the home made manure, and are yearly giving ad- 
ditional weight to the crops. In the southern part of the parish 
there is a considerable extent of light land, well adapted for turnips, 
and other green crops, and of that land some portion is of the very 
best quality. 

General duration of Leases, State of Farm Buildinffs.-^The 
present leaseholds are all of nineteen years duration. There is 
scarcely an instance of a longer term. The rents are almost 
wholly regulated by the price of grain, as fixed yearly by the fiars 
of the county. Generally speaking, the land is let at a fair 
rate, the landlord having a full rent for his property, and the te* 
nant being able to meet his engagements: in consequence of this, 
there subsists between the proprietors and the tenantry a mutual 
friendly feeling, which is necessarily conducive to the comfort of 
both parties, and to the welfare of the community at large. The 
farm-steadings are all convenient and suitable, and the dwelling- 
houses generally are commodious and good : all the steadings 
lately erected have been built on the most approved plan, embra- 
cing every possible accommodation for the most complete manage* 
ment of the land. 



144 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Amount of Raw Produce. — It is impossible to fix the average 
in such a parish as this, as it varies so greatly from oDe year to 
another, according to the extent of land that may be under pasture. 
The following is the average of the arable produce. 

Wheat, per acre, S2 busheU imperial. Turnipa, per acre, 20 tons. 

Barley, do. 42 do. Potatoes, do. 6 do. 

Oats, do. 48 do. Artificial hay, do. I4 do. 

Beans, do. 28 do. 

Quarries. — There is a stone quarry on the farm of Humbie, 
the property of the Earl of Hopetouu, which yields a beautiful 
and durable stone. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

There is no market-town in the parish ; the nearest are Edin- 
burgh and Linlithgow, distant eight miles, and Bathgate, distant 
ten miles. 

The chief villages are Kirkliston and Winchburgh, in the county 
of Linlithgow, and Newbridge, in the county of Edinburgh. 

Means of Communication. — There is a post-office in the village 
of Kirkliston, and letters are despatched and received twice every 
day* Three turnpike roads pass through the parish, viz. the road 
from Edinburgh to Stirling, and to Glasgow by Falkirk, which lies 
along the northern division of the parish, passing through the vil- 
lages of Kirkliston and Winchburgh, and is in length about five 
miles, nearly due east and west ; the road from Edinburgh to 
Glasgow by Bathgate, which lies through the southern division of 
the parish, passing through the village of Newbridge, and in 
length about three miles and a-half, due east and west ; the road 
from Queensferry to the last mentioned Edinburgh and Glasgow 
turnpike, which passes through the village of Kirkliston, and in 
length about three miles. On the first of these roads, there are 
four daily public coaches, viz. the mail between Edinburgh and Stir- 
ling, and three stage-coaches, one to and from Stirling ; one to 
and from Glasgow ; one to and from Falkirk; on the second, there 
are seven daily public coaches, viz. the mail between Edinburgh and 
Glasgow, and six stage-coaches between these cities. On all these 
roads, there are also carriers' waggons. 

Bridges, — There are two over the river Almond, one on the 
Stirling road, seven miles west from Edinburgh ; the other, on the 
middle Glasgow road, eight miles west from Edinburgh. They 
are both in good condition, and are kept in excellent repair; the for- 
mer was lengthened and widened, three years ago, at considerable 
expense. 



KIRKLISTON. 145 

Canals. — The Union Canal passes through the paVish, and there 
is a splendid aqueduct over the rivfer Almond, at the south-western 
extremity of it. The construction of this canal was commenced 
in 1818, and finished in 1822 ; it was intended to form a junction 
with the Forth and Clyde Canal. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The following is the list of ministers of 
this parish, since the year 1 647, the date of the earliest parochial 
register. 

Mr Gilbert Hall, 1647, time of his settlement not known. Mr 
James Wemyss, admitted in 1663, remained until the Revolution; 
Mr Thomas Miller, admitted in 1692; Mr James Houston, ad- 
mitted in 1716; Mr John Drysdale, admitted in 1748; Mr James 
Lindsay, admitted in 1763; Mr Charles Ritchie, in 1794; the pre- 
sent incumbent in 1826. 

The parish church is not in a central situation, being only one 
mile from the northern extremity of the parish, and three miles and 
a-half from the southern ; the most remote point from the church 
is the south-western extremity of the parish, distant four miles and 
a-half. On this account, its situation is necessarily rather incon- 
venient for these portions of the parish, and during winter, and 
after wet weather, when the river Almond is generally flooded, and 
the usual fords rendered impassable, the people in the southern 
part of the parish suffer great inconvenience in coming to church, 
from the want of a bridge, as they require to make a long circuit, 
in order to reach either of the bridges formerly mentioned. The 
church is evidently of great antiquity, erected probably in the 
twelfth century. It was one of those belonging to the knights 
hospitallers of St John of Jerusalem, who had great possessions in 
this part of the country, previous to the Reformation. There is a 
very fine old door-way in the south side of the building, not used 
now, as an entrance to the church, exhibiting a beautiful specimen 
of rich Saxon architecture. The bell is remarkable for the fine- 
ness of its tone ; it is rung every evening at 8 o'clock, and like- 
wise every morning, in summer, at 5 ; in winter, at 6. The church 
underwent a complete repair in 1822, and is now one of the most 
comfortable in the county ; it affords accommodation to 700 per- 
sons. The area of the church is divided among the heritors, ac- 
cording to their valuations, and the portion assigned to each heri- 
tor is subdivided among his tenants. There are about 65 sittings, 
left unappropriated, for the use of the inhabitants of the villages or 
other inhabitants, not otherwise provided with seats. 

EDINBURGH. K 





Bolls. 


Firlots. 


Pecks. 


Wheat, 


2 





1 


Barley, 


135 


1 


2 


Oatmeal, 


152 


1 


2 


Oats, 





2 


2 



146 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

The manse' was built in 1692 ; it was repaired and enlarged in 
1808; and as it is still deficient in accommodation, -the heritors 
have kindly agreed to make an addition to it, which is to be imme- 
diately executed. ^ 

Glebe. — The extent, including the garden and site of the manse 
and offices, is 7 acres 27 falls of excellent land ; its annual value is 
from L. 28 to L. 30, 

Stipend. — The amount is as follows : 

Lippies. 
Total, 290 2 ^ 

There is likewise an allowance of L. 10 per annum for commu- 
nion elements, and the incumbent enjoys, by gift from the Crown, 
the feu-duties of Hallyards, amounting to L. 5, lis. 7^d. The 
average of the grain stipend for the five years preceding crop 1836, 
amounted to L. 268, 18s. 2J Jd. 

There are no chapels of ease connected with the Established 
Church in the parish ; and there are no Dissenting or Seceding 
chapels. Of the families connected with the Secession, some go 
to Queensferry, some to East-Calder, some to Mid-Calder, one 
or two individuals, to Edinburgh. The number of families con- 
ilected with the Established Church is about 410; the average 
amount of regular attendance in the parish church is from 520 
to 550 individuals ; the average number of communicants is about 
400. The people who do attend church are, on the whole, re- 
gular in attendance ; but it is to be feared that the habit of church- 
going is, over the whole of this district of country, less characte- 
ristic of the people than it ought to be. 

Church Collections for Religiom and Charitable Objects* — The 
amount is as follows :— 1833, L. 5; 1834, L. 7, 10s. ; 1835, L. 15, 
15s. ; 1836, L. 12, 5s. ; 1837, L. 38, Os. 2Jd. 

Education. — Of schools there are — one parochial, two partially 
endowed, one unendowed, one supported by individual subscrip- 
tion. The last mentioned is a female school, where sewing is 
taught, together with the ordinary elements of '^education. lo 
the parochial school, reading, English grammar, writing and arith- 
metic, geography and Latin are taught. The school is conducted 
with great efficiency, and is attended by about 90 pupils. At 
the other schools, the same branches, or some of them, are taught. 



KIRKLISTON. 147 

The acting parochial teacher is assistant and successor ta the 
schoolmaster, to whom the v?hole legal salary pertaining to the 
office, which amounts to L. 34, 4s. 4c] d. per annum, continues to 
be paid. By the liberality of the heritors, the officiating teacher 
possesses the dwelling-house and garden, and receives a salary of 
L. 10 per annum, during the life of the retired schoolmaster. 
The fees are paid quarterly, in advance, and may amount to L. 50 
a year. The teacher has also about L. 20 a year as session-clerk, 
and clerk to the heritors and Statute Labour Commissioners. 
There are not many persons, between the years of six and Gfteeo, 
who cannot read ; a large proportion of the young between these 
years can write; and there are very few of those above fifteen 
years, who are unable to read, and, in a certain degree, also to 
write. The people seem to be generally alive to the benefits of 
education. No parts of the parish are so remote from all the 
schools as to prevent the children from attending one or other of 
them. The number of schools is sufficient for the parish. 

Charitable and other Institutions. — A Friendly Society was es- 
tablished in 1798, for the following purposes — 1^^ To afford an 
allowance to members, during sickness and old age ; 2</, to afford 
payment of a sum of money, on the death of members, and their 
wives and widows, in name of funeral allowance; 3^, to afford 
payment of an annuity to the widows of members during their 
widowhood. This institution has maintained great prosperity, 
and has been productive of the happiest effects, both in promoting 
industry, and in ministering to the comfort of the sick and destitute. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — The number of persons receiving 
stated parochial relief is 51 ; the stated monthly disbursement 
amounts to L. 11, 10s. lOd., which sum, divided by 51, gives 
4s. 6^d. as the average monthly allowance to each pauper. Some 
of them receive also aid occasionally, and several, not on the roll 
of the regular paupers, receive occasional relief, during winter es- 
pecially. The following is the amount of ordinary collections at the 
church door, for relief of the poor, during the five years beginning 
1833 : 1833, L. 26, 4s. 3^ : ^834, L. 32, 3s. 4|d. ; 1835, L. 33, 
12s. 8id. ; 1836, L. 31, 12s. ; 1837, L. 30, 8s. 4id. During the 
same period, the following sums have been collected for the pur- 
chase of coals in the beginning of winter: — 1833> L. 9; 1834, 
L. 15; 1835, L. 12; 1836,, L. 15; 1837, L. 16, 19s. lOd. Coals 
have been distributed at the beginning of the season to 70 fa- 
milies. The kindness of the farmers in driving the coals has al- 



148 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ways enabled the kirk-session to extend far more widely, than 
they otherwise could, the benefits of this charity. The amount 
received by the kirk-session, from the hearse and mortcloth dues, 
during the same five years, is as follows : — 1833, L. 17, 4s. 6d. ; 
1834, L. 12, 9s. 6d. ; 1835, L. 10, 13s. ; 1836, L. 13, 18s. 6d. ; 
1837, L. 13, 9s. 6d. The amount derived from the sale of the 
effects of paupers during same period, L. 11, 14s. Id.; the amount 
of expenses, necessarily connected with these sales, L. 4, 16s. 3^.; 
balance available for the relief of the poor, L. 6, 17s. 9^d. The 
amount derived from the dues for the erection of headstones in the 
churchyard at 5s. 7^d. each, during the same period^ L. 2, 5s. The 
amount derived from fines for trespasses, &c. 15s. Besides these, 
there are no other sources of revenue for the relief of the poor, ex- 
cept the contributions by the heritors, in proportion to their several' 
valuations. These contributions are in the form of what may be 
justly termed, although the expression seem paradoxical, Volun," 
tary Assessment The heritors meet twice a-year, for the purpose 
of examining the state of the poor's funds, and fixing the assess- 
ment, necessary to meet the deficiency of the funds already men- 
tioned ; and for the five years referred to, it was found requisite to 
fix this assessment at the rate of L. 200 per annum. This high rate 
was, in part, rendered necessary by a charge of L.21 per annum, 
during the ^bove period, as the board of a lunatic in the Edinburgh 
Asylum. There can be no doubt that the system of supporting 
the poor by assessment is in all respects evil^ — it checks the feel- 
ing of benevolence towards the poor, in the. minds of those who 
are able to afford relief to them, — it greatly reduces the amount of 
collections at the church-doors ; and to the existence of an assess- 
ment, is undoubtedly to be ascribed the fact, that unhappily there 
are very few instances of a disposition on the part of the poor, to re- 
frain from seeking parochial relief, or to feel the regular receiving 
of it, as any degradation.* It ought to be mentioned under this 
head, that a most useful donation to the poor has been bestowed 
annually at the beginning of the year, by the Earl of Hopetoun, 

* While truth requires this statement to be made, the writer feels great pleasure 
in recording an instance of a very opposite mode of feeling and acting. A poor and 
aged woman, on the death of her husband, several years ago, was admitted on the 
poor's roll, and received for about seven years, an allowance of Ss. 4d. per month. 
She succeeded, by the death of a near relative, to a small sum of money, and not on- 
Jy was her name withdrawn from the roll of paupers, but the entire amount of what she 
had received during the period of her destitution was repaid by her family. It would 
assuredly augur well for the moral condition of the country, if eiamples of such just 
and honourable dealing were occurring n>ore frequently. Unhappily they are very 
rare. 



KIRKLISTON. 149 

viz. the gift of a certain quantity of oat-meal to decayed labourers 
on his Lordship's property, and their widows and orphan families. 
The amount of this charity is at present about 35 bolls, divided 
among 38 families. The list is revised by the kirk-session, every 
year, and new cases of destitution are admitted on their recom- 
mendation to the benefit of the charity. This charity is most ju- 
dicious in its design, and has, for a very long series of years, af- 
forded a seasonable relief to the wants of the destitute. 

Fairs, — There is one held annually in the village of Kirkliston, 
on the last Tuesday of July ; and one likewise, in the village of 
Winchburgh, on the first Friday of June. No business is tran- . 
sacted at either of them, and they may be justly styled nuisances, 
which ought to be abolished, as they are invariably the fruitful 
' sources of injury to the morals and comfort of the people. 

Inns, Alehouses^ ^-c— There are three inns, viz. in the villages 
of Kirkliston, Winchburgh, and Newbridge. At Winchburgh there 
are likewise post-chaises, and horses. Of alehouses, the number 
is very considerable : far greater than is required ; and it is much 
to be regretted, that licences for the sale of spirituous liquors are 
granted by the county Justices, so indiscriminately, without any con- 
sideration of the number previously existing, as the morals of the 
community are greatly injured by them. 

FueL — That chiefly used is coal, which is conveyed from the 
collieries belonging to the Duke of Hamilton, near Falkirk, to 
Winchburgh, by the Union Canal. A considerable quantity of 
coal is also driven from Benhar, and Barbauchlie, in the vicinity 
of Bathgate. Of late, the price of coal has been very high, and 
to the poor it is always much greater, than to those in better cir- 
cumstances ; for as they are quite unable to pay for a cart-load 
at a time, they are under the necessity of purchasing what they 
use from retailers, in very small quantities, and at an enormous 
additional cost For this reason very little coal is used by the 
poor ; their fires are chiefly made from the cuttings of the woods. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
There are no striking variations betwixt the present state of 

the parish and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical 
Account. But from that period, there has been a steady progres- 
sive improvement in the mode of farming; and, at the present time, 
there is perhaps no parish in Scotland^ which, in respect of the 
system of husbandry pursued, is farther advanced in improvement, 
or more distinguished by the excellence of its management. At 



150 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

the same time, it is evident that the condition of the labouring 
olasses is susceptible of great improvement, and there is no doubt 
that their condition would be greatly better than it is, if there were 
among them a greater degree of foresight, and of care in laying up 
from present income a provision for future want There is among 
the people a distressing amount of poverty, especially in the vil- 
lage of Kirkliston, where some of the houses are little better than 
Irish cabins ; and it is extremely difficult to devise any means of 
mitigating the evils which they suffer, without also multiplying 
the demands for future relief. 

October 1639. 



PARISH OF BORTHWICK. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. THOMAS WRIGHT, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Situation. — This parish lies about twelve miles south from Edin- 
burgh, near the fool;^ of the Lammermuir-hills, — and at that part 
where the pastoral vale of the Gala commences its long course of 
twenty miles, from Fala-hill on the north, to Galashiels on the 
south. 

Borthwick, thus lying along the northern boundary of the Lam- 
mermuirs, is at the commencement of that fertile and extensive tract 
of comparatively level country which stretches over the whole of the 
Lothians. Any district so situated has a tendency to throw itself 
into elevations less commanding than those of the mountain range 
in its neighbourhood, — and not unfrequently, as in the case of this 
particular locality, to assume the aspect of a tempestuous sea, be- 
ginning to subside, but still rolling its mountain billows. Being 
also of different materials from those employed in the formation of 
the mountainous districts, it shews this difference of material both 
in the peculiar shape of its rising grounds, and in the scope and 
outline of the intervening valleys, — peculiarities which at once 
mark the different nature of the materials employed and the more 
recent epoch at which the formation has taken place. The val- 
leys of such districts are commonly traversed by streams of greater 



f 



BORTUWICK. 151 

size than the mountain rivulets which have contributed to form them, 
but less than the broad rivers which sweep with their accumulated 
waters through the more level country. The valleys themselves are 
often both possessed of native fertility of soil and remarkable for 
the picturesque views which they open of the more distant and le- 
vel landscape, and they have always been selected as favourite 
stations for such castles as were common during the middle ages, 
and whose ruins still give so much grace and interest to the se- 
cluded spots in which they now are found. 

Extent. — The parish of Borthwick is about 6 miles in length, 
from Castleton on the west to Ford on the east — and 4 miles 
broad, reckoning from Shank on the north to Cowbrae hill on the 
south. The form of the parish, however, is by no means regular 
— for towards the east it stretches into a long and narrow neck of 
land — towards the west it embraces a considerable breadth of more 
elevated ground — ^and the valley of Borthwick itself, with its im- 
posing old castle, occupies the centre of the parish — and forms a 
basin of some extent, traversed by a lively and winding stream — and 
bounded on all sides by undulating tracts of hilly ground, which 
give to it a peculiar character at once of mountain scenery and of 
rural seclusion. 

Hydrography, — The higher part of the parish is traversed by 
two streams, which have their origin in the moorland lying at the 
foot of the transition hills on the south. They are severally de- 
signated as the South and North Middleton Burns — they unite 
precisely at the termination of that neck of land on which the Castle 
of Borthwick stands — they then assume the name of the Gore— • 
which, after winding through the whole extent of the valley, and 
passing along the foot of the rising gro nds on which the modern 
village of Gore Bridge reposes, enters the South Esk at Shank 
Point — one of the most picturesque and pleasing localities in the 
whole district 

From the proximity of these united streams to their sources 
and feeding rivulets on the neighbouring moorland, they o i n 
descend •in torrents very rapidly — and are as speedily restored 
to their usual channel. If a heavy fall of rain occurs during the 
evening or through the night, we perceive, when day dawns, that 
the wat^r has been down during the night, and left evident tokens 
of its ravages and unusual height — though, by the time that we 
have opportunity to observe its course, it has again been restored 
to nearly its more ordinary state. 



152 EDINBUllGHSHrRE. 

The haugh grounds in the valley of Borthwick are especially 
apt to suffer during such occasional inundations — in particular, the 
small farm connected with the castle, and which lies along the low 
grounds by the side of the stream, often sustains serious damage. 
Its crops are laid down — the soil is carried away — ^a layer of sand 
is spread over a great part of the surface — and sometimes the corn 
stacks have been seen steeped in water almost to their sloping roofs. 
Such rapid descents of water are especially frequent during the 
autumnal and winter months. 

In the month of August 1837, the quantity of water which usual- 
ly comes down during such great falls of rain was prodigiously aug- 
mented by another cause. A pond on the estate of Middleton 
gave way — the river itself had been raised to great power and size 
by the water which had previously fallen from the atmosphere — 
and the united mass of the pond and the augmented stream toge- 
ther descended with a force which threatened very serious effects 
throughout the whole of its course. During its progress through the 
deep ravine of Currie wood, it must have presented an impressive 
spectacle, if day-light had permitted the neighbours to witness its 
course — for the wooded banks of the ravine are in close proximity 
to each other, — and when the mighty flood had passed, and opportu- 
nity was afforded of tracing its effects, what struck all observers was, 
that it seemed to have played with masses of stone many tons in weight, 
as if they had been pebbles of ordinary size — the solid rock was 
in several places torn from its foundations, — deep pools were form- 
ed, where previously the tiniest foot of " wood-nymph or lady fair" 
might have stepped without hazard of being wetted, — and at one 
place, for about a space of three or four hundred yards, not one 
particle of soil or of loose rock was left upon the surface — but 
whatever had been gathering since the chaotic waters first retired, 
or what they perhaps had deposited, was swept off — and only the 
bare surface of the subjacent rock was exposed to the eye of the 
observer. This descent of the waters occurred during the darkness 
of a peculiarly cloudy and tempestuous night, and it was not a little 
curious and impressive to witness the lights of the anxious cottag- 
ers by the water side, as they watched on the opposite banks the 
descent of the mighty and resistless mass — saw their bridge borne 
away by the tumultuous torrent — and shouted to each other to give 
information of what was occurring that seemed most worthy of 
notice. 

After long-continued snow storms, when the snow melts and the 

3 



BORTHWFCK. 153 

waters are swollen, the appearance of the valley and of its bor- 
dering haughs, is often very striking. I have repeatedly seen the 
whole valley in a state of inundation on such occasions — and men 
with long poles breaking the ice, and endeavouring to clear the 
course of the strean], as if they had been natives of some of the far 
northern or polar regions. On one occasion the valley was so com- 
pletely covered, that nothing appeared above water but the castle 
and the green knoll on which it stands — and persons were seen 
making their way home, by first scrambling along the tops of stone 
walls, and then plunging more than knee-deep into the turbid and 
ice-covered waters that surrounded them on every side. There was 
no danger, except from cold or moisture — but the scene at any rate 
was unusual — and in some respects ludicrous. 

When the stream is in its usual state, flowing quietly down the 
valley, most strangers are apt to remark, that it seems to them to be 
flowing in a direction difierent from that which they had expected. 
Its course throufifh the vallev is to the north-west, and the first im- 
pression of strangers is that it ought to have flowed to the north-east, 
or eastwards by Crichton Castle, j The truth is, that the stream flows 
during the first portion of its course towards the north-east, but it 
suddenly turns round the knoll on which the castle is situated, and 
then its course is in the opposite direction towards the north-west 
— but strangers not being aware of this turn of its course, naturally 
express their surprise that it seems to them to be running the wrong 
way. Almost every stranger falls into this mistake, and there is 
scarcely one of them who does not express his surprise in nearly 
the same words. 

Many springs of pure and salubrious water issue from the lime* 
stone rocks which form the chief material of the district — and often 
in such abundance at their very first appearance on the surface, as 
to be highly useful to the inhabitants, and at all times to afford a 
pleasing subject of observation and study. 

One of the most copious of these springs opens from a limestone 
ro0k exactly below the arch of the bridge which crosses the road 
close by the little inn at North Middleton. It passes immediately 
into the mill-dam — and is the chief means of working a thrashing- 
mill on the farm of Torcraik. The whole of the valley between that 
bridge and the manse abounds in similar springs — and there are se- 
veral on the glebe— one of which is worthy of notice for the excel- 
lence of its water, and its traditional history. It goes by the name 



154 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

of Charlie's well, from the name, I believe, of an old and favourite 
servant of a former minister, who was very partial to it. 

Topographical Appearances. — The general aspect of the parish^ 
is not that of a rich or very highly cultivated district — ^for there are 
considerable tracts of barren moor in it — and the land in many 
places lies high, and has but a scanty covering of soil. Yet agricuU 
ture is doing much to improve the appearance of the most barren 
portions of the district — the long and bleak moor which stretches 
along the base of the Lammermuirs is beginning to be extensively 
covered with cultivated fields and to wave with valuable crops — the 
spongy sides of the streams are now under an active system of drain- 
ing and made available for useful purposes — the low-lying swamps 
are intersected by deep drains, are cleared of their encumbering 
growth of wild wood, and taken into the general tract of cultivated 
land — numerous plantations are now covering the sides of the ris- 
ing grounds with a promising growth for future years — and a spirit 
of active and rapid improvement is visible over the greater part of 
the locality. Still it is not unlikely that the traveller may form a 
very inadequate and erroneous idea of the character of the district 
from such appearances as are obvious to him while pursuing his 
way along the high road by which the parish is traversed — for most 
of its beauties lie along the banks of the streams, and in secluded 
recesses which the eye of a passing observer cannot be expected to 
descry — ^and both the picturesque banks of the Esk, and the less 
prominent beauties of the valley of Borthwick itself, as well as of 
several other similarly situated portions of the general territory, may 
not even be suspected to exist by such an observer. This remark 
applies, indeed, to a great portion of Scottish scenery, as well as 
to that under our present consideration — but the search after such 
unobtrusive portions of natural scenery is commonly well repaid to 
those who take the trouble to look for them — and assuredly this 
locality is as likely to afford the gratification that is sought for as 
most others to which the steps of the curious observer of nature 
could be directed. We shall have occasion, however, to allude 
more particularly to the most remarkable of these spots while glan- 
cing cursorily at the seats of the different proprietors. 

Geology^ — The geology of this district affords no very great scope 
for illustrative observations. The Lammermuir-hills, which bound 
the parish on the south, are known to belong to the transition se- 
ries, and they consist almost entirely of what has been called the 
greywacke rock. The extensive moor which stretches along the 



BORTHWICK. 165 

base of these hills, and which forms the higher and more southern 
portion of the parish, almost completely hides the junction of the 
transition with the more level country ; nor do I know of any one 
point at which the subjacent rock has been laid open. The secon- 
dary rocks, which constitute the chief material of the district, are 
first exposed, on a great scale, in the course of the stream which 
passes through Currie wood. 

I have not observed that the alluvial deposits, either of an older 
or more recent date, are more numerous or of greater depth in the 
neighbourhood of the hills than near the present level of the sea, 
although the contrary seems to be an opinion generally entertain- 
ed by geologists, and which, it may be, is verified by appearances 
in other places. In a quarry . which was lately opened near 
the upper part of Currie wood, the alluvial deposit which covers 
the rocks of the quarry contains many exquisitely formed discs of 
a very friable sandstone, of a rich purple or violet or red colour. 
They are so perfectly formed, that the nicest operation of th^ 
chisel could present nothing more complete. They easily fall to 
pieces when attempted to be broken, and stain the hand of a rich 
colour, according to the peculiar tint of the specimen. The allu- 
vial matter itself, where it is not absolutely formed into such discs, 
shews in many places, and on a greater scale> the same tendency 
to the disc form, — and the whole phenomena indicate a very peculiar 
and not yet understood action of the attractive and arranging forces 
at the time when the waters were retiring, and the alluvial deposit 
was in the process of arranging itself. 

On the summit of Cowbrae hill, which is at the upper boundary 
of the parish, and from which there is one of the richest and most 
extensive views in this part of the country, an immense mass of 
rock of the same material as the neighbouring hills, (the grey- 
wacke), is found lying at almost the very highest point of the hill. 
It is quite detached from the rocks constituting the hill itself, and 
the inquiry which naturally ofi'ers itself to all visitors is, whether it 
has been laid there by human art, or been transported by the agency 
of water, at a very early epoch of the history of our globe. There 
can be no doubt in the minds of those who are accustomed to such 
speculations, and who have seen many such appearances, that the 
latter of these two causes was the one which actually operated in 
this instance ; but the curious circumstance still remains of the 
deposit being at precisely such a point as human art would have 
chosen^ had it sought to rear a magnificent altar, from which the 



156 EDINBURGHSHIUK. 

offerings of the ruder and earlier inhabitants of the world might 
have ascended with peculiar pomp ; the point on which the alluvial 
mass rests being one of the most elevated and best fitted for an ex- 
tensive view over the whole surrounding landscape.* 

Masses of a deep-coloured basalt are frequently met with, — and, 
very near the eastern boundary of this parish, upon the farm of 
Sauchland, there is one great accumulation of this material, which 
might seem to be a quarry in its original state, but which is, in fact, 
a great alluvial deposit. 

The stratified rocks, as seen on the precipitous sides of Currie 
wood, consist of layers of a red-coloured and coarse-grained sand- 
stone, with intervening portions of a lighter-coloured variety of the 
same material, and with unformed masses of a substance composed 
partly of sandstone and calcareous matter, and partly of indurated 
clay, intersected by minute and lozenge-shaped veins of calcareous 
spar. Sandstone, limestone, and the coal metals are the rocks every • 
where occurring throughout the district. 

In general, the sandstone is much intermixed with calcareous 
matter, and is not considered as good for the purposes of architec- 
ture, — although there are some quarries which are regarded as va- 
luable for such humble purposes as are most required in a rural 
district The grain in general is coarse, but when exposed to 
the 'air, the stone hardens into a durable and not unseemly mass. 

From the great quantity of calcareous matter intermixed with 
the sandstone, the stone dikes often fall to pieces after they have 
been for a few years exposed to the action of the atmosphere. Yet 
the durable quality of the stone of which the Castle of Borthwick 
itself is built, and the fine edge which it still retains, have been 
subjects of admiration with all who have visited the ruin. There 
is reason to believe that the quarry from which its materials were 
obtained is in the heart of Currie wood, which is in its immediate 
vicinity ; so that there must be some stone of a peculiarly excel- 
lent kind under the surface in this neighbourhood, although that 
which is commonly obtained is liable to the waste we have already 
noticed. Crichton Castle presents a sad contrast, in this respect, 
to the present condition of the stone which has been used in the 
building of Borthwick Castle — the former being much crumbled 
and rounded in all its edges, while the latter is generally in as 

* I have since understood, that a stone coffin and some other signs of the spot 
having been used as a place of burial, have been found in the neighbourhood of this 
stone— so that, however it may have originally come there, it seems to have been after- 
wards used either as a monumental record or for the purpose of Druidical sacrifice. 



BORTHWICK. 157 

perfect a state as if it had been exposed for a comparatively short 
period to tho$e wasting causes which are incessantly at work. 

The limestone and coal of the district are excellent, and much 
sought for both by the inhabitants of Edinburgh, and by purchas- 
ers from the more southern towns of Scotland — some seams of the 
latter, on the estates of Arniston and Vogrie, being reckoned but 
little inferior to the famed caking coals of the English counties. 

Botany. — The oldest trees in the parish are-— those in the im- 
mediate neighbourhood of Arniston House — the venerable syca- 
mores which surround part of the church-yard of Borthwick — and a 
remarkable row of trees, amounting to twenty, which stand in the 
middle of a field on the north side of the valley of Borthwick. 
Strangers are apt to enquire why such a row of trees should pre- 
sent themselves in the middle of a cultivated field. The fact is, 
that the road into the valley passed in former times along the up- 
per side of these trees — and it is traditionally known, that the an- 
cient custom of the parish was, that when the coach of the Dundas 
iamily entered the western extremity of that row, on Sabbath days, 
the church bell was expected to begin to toll. There are also 
some fine old trees around the garden and ruinous house of Shank, 
and on the estates of Vogrie and Harvieston. A row of very aged 
hollies stands near the western end of the manse — and in the glen 
between Borthwick and Crichton, there are many large specimens of 
the same tree (the holly), which seems to be native to the district 
The present manse of Borthwick was formerly enclosed on the 
south by three large sycamores, but the former incumbent cut 
down two of them, for the purpose of admitting more light into the 
rooms. A row of large limes surrounds the old garden belonging to 
the Castle, which formerly occupied the sloping bank descending 
on the south*west of the Castle, towards the small stream which 
flows by the manse. The remarkable oak roots in Currie Wood 
are the remains of a forest of great antiquity, which has frequently 
been cut down, and from which at present but a few slender sap- 
lings are observed to be springing. 

A great deal of excellent old wood has been cut down on almost 
all the properties of the parish within the last jtwelve months ; and 
many of the glens and banks of the streams, which waved a few 
years since with trees that had resisted the storms of centuries, 
are now almost without a stem which bears on it the marks of 
age. However, young plantations have everywhere been forming 
on an extensive scale ; and there can be no doubt that the pro- 



158 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

prietors are in every instance acting on deliberate views, both of 
their personal interests, and of what is likely to be for the even- 
tual good of their estates. 

Generally, it may be said, that wood grows freely, and of good 
quality, throughout the different parts of the parish* It is known, 
however, to persons conversant with such matters, that the best 
woods for use are not always obtained from spots which are most 
remarkable for the speedy growth, and the luxuriant beauty of 
their living trees. It is also known that places which are in close 
proximity to each other are sometimes very differently disposed 
to the production of the hardest and most valuable woods ; and it 
is equally true, that the same quality of soil which is favourable 
to the most perfect formation of one kind of wood, is not equally 
propitious to the most healthy and useful condition of trees of 
another species. This variety seems in some measure to depend 
on causes which are not yet quite understood, and which cannot 
be entirely resolved either into the mere height of the climate, or 
the more speedy or tardy growth of the wood. But in general 
it is believed that the wood of this district is of a superior kind. 
The tree which seems to be most native to our glens and river 
sides is the ash. 

Of inferior plants, the deadly nightshade used to grow in too 
luxuriant crops among the ruins of the Castle ; but of late I have 
found some difficulty in tracing the plants, perhaps because, in my 
fear lest the children of the parish might suffer from the use of 
the glossy and inviting berries, I have been in the habit of cutting 
down the plants before the fruit was perfectly ripe. 

Abundance of wild roses, some of which are of superior tint 
and flavour, blossom on all the hill sides ; and the soil under the 
shade of the more luxuriant woods, and along the banks of the 
different streams, is btten thickly overlaid with a goi^eous carpet, 
woven of the most beautiful and elegantly formed of the produc- 
tions of Flora. 

The present Professor of Botany in the University of Edinburgh, 
who wisely accustoms his students to researches in the open fields, 
frequently makes this neighbourhood the scene of his exploratory 
rambles with his pupils. The sides of the streams on the estate 
of Arniston are peculiarly rich in such plants as grow under the 
shade of lofty trees, and in moist and cool situations. The swampy 
glens between Borthwick and Crichton are equally prolific of such 
plants as usually grow in such situations. The sloping braes are 



BORTHWICK. 159 

often beautified by flowers which every botanist delights to meet 
with ; and the upland moors, which are so delightful on many ac- 
counts, are not the least so from the beauty and elegance, and of- 
ten the minute forms, and fine odours of the plants which there 
^^ blush unseen, and waste their sweetness on the desert air." 

On one patch of moorland lying near the eastern boundary of 
the parish, there is a species of dwarf whin, not much exceeding 
in size the common crowfoot, which it much resembles, and for 
which, with its yellow and scarlet streaked flowers, it might readily 
be mistaken. The curious in such matters would value it highly. 

Generally, this neighbourhood is an excellent field for the ram- 
bles of a young botanist The plants are both numerous, and of 
considerable variety, corresponding with the character of the ground 
which the explorer may select I have not observed any thing, 
however, -which could be considered as of great rarity. 

Zoology. — The castle is the seat of a colony of jackdaws, whose 
flights and chatterings take something from its loneliness during the 
day time. Like all other colonies of the same bird, they contrive to 
keep up their number, but never are observed to have increased it 
No person remembers them to have been more or less in number 
than at present. 

The white owl regularly issues towards evening, with a triumph- 
ant scream, from the upper windows of the castle, and hunts for 
mice and other food of a similar kind over the glebe and the ad- 
joining fields. It flies when oh this search so low, that I was once 
almost struck by it, when circling the base of a green knoll, from 
the other side of which it was coming, without having observed 
me. I had full time to observe the brilliant and ruby-like lustre 
of its large eyes, as it keenly surveyed the ground for its prey. 

Starlings frequently breed in the ruins of the old church, and 
in the cavities of the aged sycamores which wave over it. Two 
summers ago, three pairs of these birds built their nests in these 
places. They used regularly to fly off* about mid-day to the up- 
land, at some distance, in search of food. 

The heron is often seen fishing in the hollows, through which 
the burn flows, — and rises slowly and heavily into the air when 
alarmed. His higher flight is vigorous and swift 

Flights of wild geese regularly pass over us to the moors, where 
they have their favourite feeding-grounds. These birds are pro- 
verbial for leading men on a perplexed and fruitless search ; but 
I once witnessed a guzzled and diverting condition of their own 



160 EDINBUUGHSHIRE. 

phalanx. The day had suddenly become foggy to an uncommon 
degree. As I was amusing myself in my garden, I heard the 
wild geese advancing at some distance. When they had come 
almost directly over the spot where I was, they seemed to have 
become seized with an immediate panic, from an apprehension 
that they had either lost their way, or could .no longer proceed in 
safety through the mist. The noise they made in consequence 
was like the twanging of a thousand instruments of brass. Some- 
times they seemed to descend in a body so near the earth, that a 
stone thrown vigorously from the hand might, as it seemed, have 
brought some of them to the ground. Again they mounted to a 
much greater height, — and the noise and the perplexity continued 
for about twenty minutes — the birds still hovering over nearly the 
same spot of ground. No person who heard the noise could doubt 
that their fear and perplexity were eJttreme. At length they found 
some way of escape, — but whether a breeze had opened up to them 
the distant prospect which they sought for — or whether they had 
ascended to a higher region above the fog— or whether some goose 
more sagacious and possessed of greater authority than the rest» 
had undertaken to pilot them through the mist, I was not 
able to determine. The impression, however, on my mind at the 
time was, that they were a very fit emblem of some popular as- 
semblies which I have seen, when, like the wild geese, they too are 
at a stand about some puzzling question, and know not how to 
proceed. The noise and the dissonance were very much of the 
same kind. 

The blackcock is a much rarer bird in this district than in for- 
mer years — but grouse, snipes, plovers, and woodcocks abound on the 
moors and in the swampy grounds. Fieldfares come regi.larly in flocks 
to feed on the berries of the old hollies beside the manse, and 
pheasants are in great plenty in all the woods. The water-hen and 
water-crow are frequent in the course of all the streams. 

In severe winters several strange birds visit us. During the sin- 
gularly severe and long-continued storm of 1822-23, we were 
visited by some of the swans which at that time were seen in dif- 
ferent parts of the island. I did not suspect what they were, till 
they rose from the side of the stream with their fine musical note, 
and made their way with great magnificence of wing to a more 
distant scene. 

Foxesvfrequently breed in the Chirmatj (a piece of wooded hill which 
fronts the windows of my room.) I have amused myself occasion- 



BORTHWICK. 161 

ally with observing the gambols of the young ones, who come to 
the hole's mouth about the time of the setting sun, and frolic with 
much apparent want of suspicion as to their obnoxious character. 
The mother is commonly on the watch at the same time, and screams 
fearfully if she thinks her young ones in danger. The old foxes, at 
certain seasons, come down, after it is dark, to the side of the 
stream, and amuse us with their barking. 

At this moment there is a litter of young badgers in the 8ame 
place, (the Chirmat). The country is much overrun by rabbits. 
The white weasel, with its tail tipped with black, is sonietimes seen 
hastening to its hole in the old stone walls. Hedgehogs are very 
common — a fact of which I was not aware, till I observed the num- 
bers caught by my dog in his rambles — and squirrels gambol on all 
the trees of the larger woods. Rats are in great plenty along the 
course of all the streams — but they too are better known to my poodle, 
who has studied their migrations, among all the tree roots and by the 
water courses, with great assiduity, and sometimes very profound* 
fyi by day and by night, for the last ten years. — I know not whe- 
ther the popular opinion be well founded, that rats will not come 
where goats are kept, but certain it is, that, though they have occa- 
sionally been troublesome to my neighbours, they have never come 
near my house, on the braes beside which a picturesque white 
goat has long browsed. 

The glow-worm, which has probably been seen by but a few of 
the inhabitants of the neighbouring metropolis, and which is not 
often met with in Scotland, is one of the most attractive objects 
to persons who occasionally visit our valley in search of what is 
beautiful and rare. During most of the summer evenings it may be 
seen in considerable numbers along the valley which intervenes 
between the castles of Borthwick add Crichton, — although from 
the extensive drainings which have lately taken place in this glen, 
the worms are less abundant than they were in former years. Their 
beautiful greenish light among the dewy grass or by the sides of 
the footpath, never fails to awaken the admiration of all observers, 
and would form a treat worthy of a visit on purpose — were it not 
that the later hours of the evening are the only tittie for witnes- 
sing the sight^to a great many persons, who have never actually 
witnessed one of the most lovely spectacles presented by the 
minuter works of nature ; though there are few persons who have 
not some pleasbg impressions gained from reading, and especially 
from poetic description with this phenomenon. * 

* The glow-worm (LampyrU noctUucaJ, when seen by daylight, is a short and 
EDINBURGH. L 



162 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

IL — Civil History, 
Family of Borthroick. — The name Borthwick, which b one of 

the few that are used to designate at once a fiunily and a posses- 
sion, does not bear on it the marks of pure British origin, and there 
seems, therefore, to be reason for adopting the opinion very gene- 
rally expressed by antiquaries, that it had come into this island 
with some of the families^ that are known to have migrated from 
the continent during the earlier periods of our history. 

It is certain, that the particular district of which we are now 
treating did not give its name to the family, but received its terri- 
torial designation from them, for it was anciently called Locher- 
wart, and took the name of Borthwick only afber it became die 
property of the family of that name. 

There are the ruins of a very ancient castle on the estate of 
Harvieston, which are traditionally assigned as the seat of the fa- 
mily before it became possessed of the domain of Locherwart, to 
which it afterwards gave the name of Borthwick* These ruins go 
bv the name of the old Castle of Catcune, and it is certain that the 
family were promiscuously designed by the titles of Catcune, Le- 
gertwood, and Herriot-Muir, before they assumed the title of 
Borthwick of that Ilk. 

The family of Hay, which afterwards became possessors of the 
domain of Yester, and finally Marquisses of Tweeddale, were at 
that time occupiers of the domain of Locherwart, and are accfrd- 
ingly designated in all the writings of that period. Hays of Locher- 
wart. The Borthwicks and the Hays appear to have been thus 

thick ^worm of a dingy and by.no means inviting appearance. No person would sup- 
pose from \t& daylight aspect, that its brilliancy during the lattf hours of eiwniiig 
eould be so beautifuL The light, which the worm has the power to extinguish at 
pleasure, proceeds from three whitish-coloured rings towards the extremity of the 
body — the luminous matter is a yellow substance contained in vesicles,—- when these 
resiclcs are removed entire, they shine for some time— but when lacerated they are 
ftpeedily extinguished. The worm can at any time extinguish its light, when it is 
handled or put into a state of fear. 

These worms b^in to shine in the month of June, and may be seen till September. 

I have remarked that they are seen in greatest numbers on misty and warm evenings. 

' They put out their lights between eleven and twelve at ni^ht. If they are put un-> 

der a glass cover they give light, within doors, for several weeks—they gradually de> 

posit the luminous matter and die. 

The male is a dingy coloured scarabanis, and may be seen on every stalk of grass 
on which the light of the female is shining. The light, besides its extreme beaaty, ia 
a remarkable provision of Nature aSbrded to so unlikely a creature-«>and sofiir as we 
understand for such a purpose. 

I have occasionally met in the same glen in which the glow-worms are found, with 
that curious appearance, sometimes caUed by the country people the &Uen star. — It 
is a clear gelatinous substance, resembling the medusa which is found along the sea 
shore. It has no definite shape^-and I have never been able ijo satisfy myself as to 
its origin. It is only seen after broken weatheiw-and my impressioa is, that it iaa 
production of the atmosphere. Of this, however, I am not certain. 



BORTHWICK, 168 

• 

neighbours and extensive proprietors in this part of the country; 
and there is a tradition relating to the old Castle of Catcune, that 
while it was inhabited by one of the Borthwick family, the pos- 
sessor had fallen in love with and married a lady of the family of 
Hay — and that it was in consequence of this connexion that the 
Haysy who had now become Lords of Yester, consented to give 
up a portion of their property to the Knight of Catcune, and to 
favour his plan of eventually building a more magnificent castle for 
the residence of himself and his lady. The more common tradi- 
tion, however^ is, that the lady belonged to the house of Douglas. 

There seem to have been two persons of the title of Sir William 
Borthwick, who were occupiers of the Castle of Catcune — and who 
preceded that Sir William who built the Castle of Borthwick, and 
became the first Lord of that name. 

This third Sir William was a person of great talents, — was often 
employed in important negociations — and made a figure in most of 
the public transactions of his time. He was created Lord Borthwick 
about the year 1430, and obtained from King James L, a special li- 
cense for erecting upon the spot called the Mote of Locherwart a 
castle or fortalice, to surround it with walls and ditches, to defend it 
with gates of brass or iron, and to place upon the summit defensive 
ornaments, by which is meant battlements and turrets : he was fur* 
ther empowered to place in the castle so erected a constable, a por- 
ter» and all other persons and things necessary for the defence 
thereof. Such was the origin of the Castle of Borthwick. 

In an aisle of the old church may still be seen two monumental 
statues, in a recumbent posture, and in good preservation, of this 
first Lord Borthwick and his Lady. His Lordship is in full armour — 
he has the countenance of a man of middle age, with a sagacious and 
manly expression, and such as was not unlikely to have captivated, 
in his more youthful years, any daughter that the house of Hay — 
or the still more renowned house of Douglas — could have furnished 
.to him. His lady is a beautiful female figure, of a gentle and 
handsome cast of* features, and dressed in the full robes of her 
time. Their monument was formerly surrounded by several infan- 
tine figures, which have now entirely disappeared; but the tradi- 
tion is, that the parents had a numerous ofispring, who are all bu- 
ried in the same spot. The workmanship of the statues is exactly 
euch as was common at that particular time, when the persons re- 
presented are known to have lived ; — and it is interesting in the 
highest degree, both as giving us a perfect idea of the style of 



164 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

• 

dress which was common at that period, and as exhibiting, which 
we have no doubt that it does, a pretty correct likeness of the fea- 
tures which actually belonged to the persons represented. 

The second Lord Borthwick was one of the hostages, long be- 
fore the de»ith of his father, for King James's ransom. He was 
afterwards sent as ambassador to the Court of Rome^ and, latter- 
ly, he was sent not fewer than three times as ambassador to the 
Court of England. He seems to have been, like his father, a 
man of superior talents, and much trusted by his superiors. 

William, the third Lord, was also employed in a similar man* 
ner. He was slain, with many of his brave countrymen and their 
royal leader, James IV., at the Battle of Flodden. The proprie- 
tor of the neighbouring Castle of Crichton also fell on that disas- 
trous day. 

William, the fourth Lord, married Margaret Hay, daughter of 
John Lord Yester, by whom he had a son, from whom all the sub- 
sequent Lords descended. 

John, the fifth Lord, was ** a great loyalist — a steady friend af 
Queen Mary, and never deserted her interest in her greatest dis- 
tress, on which account he suffered many hardships.'' He died 
before the year 1572, and was succeeded by 

William, the sixth Lord, who married Grizel, daughter of Sir 
Walter Scott, ancestor of the Duke of Buccleuch, by whom he 
had a son, 

James, the seventh Lord Borthwick, who married Margaret 
Hay, daughter of William Lord Hay of Yester, ancestor of the 
Marquis of Tweeddale. He was succeeded by his grandson, 

John, the eighth Lord Borthwick. He is described as having 

been a man of great honour and loyalty. He adhered firmly to 

the cause of the royal family, during all the time of the civil war. 

After the murder of the King, he held out his Castle of Borthwick 

against Cromwell ; and, at last, when forced to surrender, obtained 

very honourable terms, viz» liberty to march out with bis lady and 

family unmolested, having been allowed fifteen days time to remove 

their effects. 

He was succeeded by his son, John, the ninth Lord Borthwick, 

who married the daughter of Robert Earl of Lothian, and died 
without issue in 1672. 

After the death of this ninth Lord, the castle and barony be- 
came the property of John Dundas of Harviestone, nephew of the 
deceased Lord Borthwick, and grandson of Sir James Dundas, of 



BORTHWICR. 165 

the distinguished family of Arniston. It passed afterwards, by 
purchase, into the family of Dalrymple of Cowsland^ — from them 
to the family of Mitchelson of Middleton, — ^and is now in possession 
of John Borthwick, Esq. of Crookston, — a branch of the ancient 
family from which the ruins derived their name, and who ^^ is 
equally interested in their preservation, and disposed to attend to 
it.'' 

We may now look back on a few remarkable incidents which 
are ascertained to have occurred during the period of which we 
have been treating. The following whimsical incident occurred at 
the Castle of Berth wick in the year 1547. We give it in the 
words of Sir Walter Scott, who has published his authority in an 
extract from the Consistory Register of St Andrews : the story 
may therefore be relied on as a fact 

'^ In consequence of a process betwixt Master George Hay de 
Minzeans and the Lord Borthwick, letters of excommunication had 
passed against the latter, on account of the contumacy of certain 
witnesses. William Langlands, an apparitor or macer {baadaritis) 
of the see of St Andrews, presented these letters to the curate of 
the church of Borthwick, requiring him to publish the same at the 
service of high mass. It seems that the inhabitants of the castle 
were at this tiuae engaged in the favourite sport of enacting the 
Abbot of Unreason, a species of highjinks^ in which a mimic pre- 
late was elected, who, like the Lord of Misrule in England, turn- 
ed all sort of lawful authority, and particularly the church Ri- 
tual, into ridicule. This frolicsome person with his retinue, 
notwithstanding of the apparitor's character, entered the church, 
seized upon the primate's oflScer without hesitation, and dragging 
him to the mill-dam on the south side of the castle, compelled him 
to leap into the water. Not contented with this partial immersion, 
the Abbot of Unreason pronounced, that Mr William Langlands 
was not yet sufficiently bathed, and therefore caused his assistants 
to lay him on his back in the stream, and duck him in the most 
satisfactory and perfect manner. The unfortunate apparitor was 
then conducted back to the church, where, for his refreshment 
after his bath, the letters of excommunication were torn to pieces, 
and steeped in a bowl of wine ; the mock abbot being probably of 
opinion that a tough parchment was but dry eating. Langlands 
was compelled to eat the letters, and swallow the wine, with the 
comfortable assurance, that if any more such letters should arrive 
during the continuance of his office, they should * a' gang the same 



266 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

gait.' '* This incident happened, we have said, in the time of th^ 
fifth Lord Borthwick, and in the year 1547, — that is to say, at a 
period when the principles of the Reformation were in active opera- 
tion among all ranks, — and when the ceremonies and power of the 
ancient church were beginning to be treated with a license at least 
as great as had been the slavish power with which they previously 
had been regarded. Certainly, at no other time would such an 
insult to an officer of the church have been thought of. 

It was during the lifetime of the same Lord, that the beautiful 
and unfortunate Queen occasionally visited this castle, and at last 
took refuge in it, before she entered on the long series of her hu-^ 
miliations and griefs. We find in^ Cecil's Journal the follovring 
entries respecting her occasional visits. It must be kept in mind 
that Both well was Lord of Crichton Castle, and that, therefore, 
he and the Lord Borthwick, as near neighbours, were likely to 
take the part of each other. 

*^ October 7, 1566. My Lord Bothwell was hurt in Liddis- 
dale, and the Queen raid to Borthwick. 

^^ June 7, 1567. He (Bothwell) purposed and raid against the 
Lord Houme and Femherst, and so passed to Melrose, and sfie to 
Borthtvick. 

*^ June 11, 1567. The Lords came suddenly to Borthwick; 
Bothwell fled to Dunbar, and the Lords retired to Edinburgh, 
she followed Bothwell to Dunbar disguised." 

" This," continues Sir Walter, '* might, in any ordinary histo-^ 
rical investigation, seem a sufficient notice of what passed. But 
the history of Mary Stuart is invested with an interest as well as a 
mystery which attaches to no other part of Scottish history." — 
*< The following more minute detail of the anxious moment in 
which she escaped from Borthwick is taken from a letter of James 
Beaton, the Archbishop of Glasgow, written to his brother, An- 
drew, for the information of that active prelate, dated 17th June 
1567." The writer, who had faithfully conveyed to Mary the 
news of the disasters that seemed to threaten her, says> that he 
found her '^ so quiet at Borthwick, that there was none with her 
passing six or seven persons." 

** Ye sail understand," continues the letter, *^ how the said 
(11th June 1567) day my Lords of Morton, Mar, Hume, Lind-^ 
say, &c. with sundry odderris barronis, to the nommer of nine hun- 
dredth or a thousand horsemen, arryvit in the morning about Borth-» 
wick, in deliberation to comprehend and tak my I^rd Dak» wha 



BOttTUWlCK. 167 

was in the said place with the Queenis Majestie. My Lord Duk 
hearing of this enterprize, thinking well he could be in naair secu- 
ritie in the field than in ane house, passit forth and red away. 

*^ Her Majestie, in mennis claithes, butit and spurrit, departit 
that samin nicht of Borthwick to Dunbar, quhairof na man knew 
3aif my Lord Duk and sum of his servants, wha met her Majestie 
a myll off Borthwick, and conveyed her hieness to Dunbar." 

^* There seems," says Sir Walter, *^ to have been an interval 
of nearly two days betwixt the escape of Bothwell from Borth- 
wick Castle and the subsequent flight of the Queen in disguise to 
Dunbar. If during that interval, Mary could have determined on 
separating her fortunes from those of the deservedly detested Both- 
well, her page in history might have closed more happily."* 

As the fifth Lord Borthwick was a faithful adherent of Queen 
Mary, his great grandson, John the eighth Lord, was a follower 
of the King during the great civil war. After the unfortunate battle 
at Dunbar, and while the victorious troops of Cromwell were de- 
vastating the Lothians, Borthwick Castle held out gallantly, and 
the garrison employed themselves to the last in annoying the enemy. 
This soon drew upon them the vengeance of Cromwell, who sent 
the following characteristic summons, dated at Edinburgh 18th No- 
vember 1650, and endorsed, ^^ For the Governor of Borthwick 
Castle, these : — Sir, — I thought fitt to send this trumpett to you, 
to let you know, that if you please to walk away with your com- 
pany, and deliver the house to such as I shall send to receive it, you 
shall have liberty to carry off your armes and goods, and such other 
necessaries as you have. You harboured such parties in your house, 
as have basely and inhumanely murdered our men ; if you necessi- 
tate me to bend my cannon against you, you must expect what I 
doubt you will not be pleased with. I expect your present answer, 
and rest your servant, O. Cromwell." 

Notwithstanding this very significant epistle, the Governor of 
Borthwick Castle, supposed to have been Lord Borthwick himself, 

* The place at which the Queen is understood to have met with the servants of 
Bothwell when she escaped from Borthwick Castle, '* butit and spurred, and in the gutze 
of a page,** — is Cakemuir, which lies at a short distance across the moor towards the 
south-east. Mary's flight, therefore, was necessarily across that wild an J open tract of 
heathy country, which intervenes between Borthwick and Cakemuir. A room which 
she occupied in this latter castle is still shewn. She proceeded from this, in company 
with BothweU*s servants, towards Linton on her way to Dunbar. At Linton she 
met Bothwell, and came bock with him to Faside Castle and Carberry hill,— where, 
exactly one month after their unfortunate marriage, they parted for ever, — he to be- 
come a pirate and a madman, and to die in a dungeon in Denmark— and she to en- 
dure a long life of captivity and sorrow, and at last to perish by a Lloody execution. 



168 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

held out the fortress, until artillery was opened upon it, and tbensur* 
rendered it upon honourable terms. The place, where the Protector's 
cannons were stationed, seems to have been the rising ground im- 
mediately behind the house at present occupied by the proprie^ 
tor of Currie ; — and whether by good luck, or by advice from with- 
in, Cromwell seems to have directed his artillery against the very 
part of the wall, which was most likely soon to yield to his strength, 
there being a chimney at that place, which renders the wall less 
thick there than it is throughout the rest of the building. The 
effect of the cannonading is still visible on the eastern wall of the 
castle* Attempts, it is said, have been repeatedly made to repair 
the damage done to the wall ; but, from the difficulty of uniting 
the ancient and the modem masonry, these attempts have been 
unsuccessful. 

It appears from the foregoing review, that the Lords Borthwick 
were, throughout the whole series of them, men of superior talents, 
and of great respectability of character. They took an active part in 
all public and important transactions, — nor are there any names 
that occur more frequently as attending on the Scottish estates of 
Parliament. The vicinity of the family residence to Edinbui^h 
may no doubt in some measure account for the latter circumstance ; 
but it has also been well suggested, ^^ that their power and talents, 
unquestionably, rendered them able counsellors and powerful as- 
sistants of the royal authority." 

The possessions belonging to this family seem at one time to 
have^ been immense. In the conveyance of the Borthwick estates, 
executed August 1st 1538, there are comprehended the Moat of 
Lochquarret, the Castle of the same, called the Castle of Borth- 
wick ; half of Bateland in the county of Edinburgh ; Borthwick in 
Selkirkshire ; Legerwood, Glengelt, Colinlaw, and Brown House 
in Berwickshire; Ormiston, Herriot, Herriot-Muir, Hethpule, and 
Whitfield in the county of Peebles ; and Aberdour in Aberdeen- 
shire ; which lands, by this deed, are destined to William, Lord 
Borthwick ; John Borthwick, his son, and apparent heir ; Sir John 
Gordon of Gordon Hall ; and William Borthwick of Crookstone, 
and their heirs-male respectively. 

But iamilies, like everything else under the sun, have their 
times of rise, of grandeur, and of ultimate decline — nor will even 
general propriety of conduct altogether reverse this universal law. 
The immense possessions of this once powerful and respectable 
family have long fallen to other occupants — their race has become 



BORTHWICK. 169 

almost extinct — and the scene of their greatness and splendour is 
an uninhabited and fast crumbling ruin. 

It is solemn, amidst such thoughts, to stand, while the shadows 
of evening are falling on the surrounding glen, beside the ever* 
murmuring brook that hastens down the valley — and to permit the 
scene before us, to make its natural impression on our minds. A 
few scattered lights are beaming from the humble windows of the 
lowly cottages that lie under the shadow of the ruin — ^the castle itself, 
in all its gloomy and solitary grandeur, still lifts its imposing mass 
into the dusky air — and over all are the enduring lights of heaven, 
which have witnessed, without change, so many revolutions among 
the dwellings of men — and which are destined, through the- long 
coming years of the history of our race, to shine on so many myriads 
who have as yet no intimation of the wonders of that ever-varying 
scene into which they are eventually to be ushered. The pre* 
sent, the past, and the future, are thus brought, by the different 
features of the scene, at one moment before us — and each portion 
of the picture derives additional interest from the others with which 
it b associated. The effect of the whole b an impression that is 
at once solemn and imposing. 

After the termination of the male line in the ninth Lord, who 
was lineally descended from the first son of the third Lord, 
the line of succession reverted to the descendants of Alexander, the 
second son of the third Lord Borthwick — that is, of him who fell 
at Flodden. The last person of this line who claimed the titles 
and honours of Lord Borthwick, and whose claim was admitted, was 
Henry, commonly called the tenth Lord Borthwick. He obtain- 
ed the title in 1750 — and had voted, at all elections of the Peers 
from 1734. His claim, however, was afterwards disallowed. 

The title and honours are now disputed — nor does there seem 
to be any probability that the dispute will soon be decided. 

The name of Borthwick still belongs to several persons in this 
neighbourhood, most of whom have some traditional story to tell 
of their connexion with the distinguished and noble family to 
whom the castle once belonged. There is, in fact, a general cast 
of features, which may be traced as belonging to most persons bear- 
ing this surname. 

It is pleasing to recollect, that the castle, of whose occupants 
we have been detailing the history, has not been stained or ren- 
dered in any respect horrible to the imagination by the perpetra- 
tion of any of those darker and more atrocious crimes, which were so 



170 EDINDUR'JHSHIRE. 

• 

common in Scotland during the times of the Jiwoeses, and which 
still seem to adhere in gloomy colours to the ruins that awaken our 
interest. Even the festivities of Mary, with her profligate para- 
mour, were but acts of friendly and liberal hospitality to the distress 
sed on the part of the ^oble family by whom that hospitality was 
afforded — and it deserves to be remarked, that the warning note <^ 
insurrection and of coming vengeance was first heard amidst the 
hospitable festivities of this place, as if it had been intended to in- 
timate that its long course of domestic respectability must no long* 
er be sullied by such a contrast Scarcely any recollection, ac- 
cordbgly, haunts the visitant of this castle, but such as is genial 
and pleasant to be indulged. 

Eminent Men. — The person whose connection with this parish 
will probably in all future times be considered as its highest ho- 
nour, was the late learned and celebrated Principal Robertson. 
He was born in the present manse of Berth wick in the year 1721, 
and retained to his last hours an affectionate recollection of the 
scene of his boyish sports and early aspirings after fame. 

Few families in any country have had the good fortune to give 
rise to such an unbroken series of distinguished men, as those 
which have sprung from the house of Arniston. 

Sir James Dundas, the first Baron of Arniston, Governor of 
Berwick and knighted by King James V., was the third son of 
George Dundas of Dundas, by Katherine, daughter of Lawrence 
Lord Oliphant. 

His son. Sir James Dundas of Arniston, though not bred to the 
law, was made a Judge of the Court of Session in 1662. He lost 
his seat in the Court of Session for refusing to abjure the Nation- 
al Covenant, except in so far as it had led to deeds of actual re- 
bellion. He retired to the family estate. of Arniston, where he 
spent the remainder of his days in domestic happiness — and in 
cultivating a taste for polite learning. He died in 1679. 

Robert, his eldest son, filled the situation of one of the Judges of 
the Court of Session, during the long period of thirty-seven years, 
with great honour and integrity. 

His son became ultimately President of the Court, and is al- 
lowed to have been a person of surpassing talent both for elo- 
quence and for legal business. He conducted the celebrated case of 
Carnegie of Finhaven, and established the right of Scottish juries 
to return a verdict on the guilt or innocence of the accused. He 
died, 26th August 1753.- 



BORTHWICK. 171 

By his first wife Elizabeth, daughter of Robert Watson, Esq. 
of Muirhouse, he left a son who became one of the most distin- 
guished Presidents this country has ever had — and of his second 
marriage sprung the Right Honourable Henry Diindas, afterwards 
Lord Melville — ^than whom Scotland has seldom had a better 
friend, or Great Britain an abler counsellor. 

The last President Dundas was succeeded in his estate by his 
son Robert, who ultimately became Chief Baron — and whose rare 
excellencies of understanding and of character rendered him an ob- 
ject both of admiration and of love to all classes of the com munity. 

Antiquities, — The Castle of Borthwick is remarkable for the 
beauty of its proportions — the excellence of its masonry — and the 
impressive effect which it produces on all beholders. It has been 
pronounced by the best judges to be by far the finest specimen of 
that very numerous class of Scottish Castles, which consist of a 
single Donjon or tower surrounded by an embattled walL The 
proportions are 74 by 68 feet without the walls — and about 110 
feet from the adjacent area to the highest part of the roof. The 
walls, which are of hewn stone, are 13 feet thick near the bottom 
of the building — and gradually contract towards the top to about 
6 feet 

The entrance was formerly by an outer stair and drawbridge — 
which are now in ruins ; — they formed what in ancient times was 
called a perron or ramp. Besides the sunk story— the build- 
ing consists of two large halls, the one above the other — and of 
two flights of bed-rooms, occupying two projecting portions of the 
building, as viewed from the west The lower hall is one of the 
most elegant and finely proportioned of all those that can still be 
seen in any of the numerous ruins that give interest to the scenery of 
Scotland. ^* It is," says Nisbet, <^ so large and high in the roof, 
that a man on horseback might turn a spear in it with all the ease 
imaginable." The roof has been painted with such devices as oc- 
cur in old illuminations, over one part of which is still legible, in 
Gothic characters^ Ye Temple of Honor. <^ Stately and magni- 
ficent as the Hall of Borthwick is in itself, it is no less rich in as- 
sociations. Here/' it has been justly said, ^* we may suppose the 
Abbot of Unreason to have exercised his frolics. Here 

" The ttern Protector of the conquered land** 

received the keys of the castle, into which his cannon had forced 
an entrance. But, aI)ove all, the image of Queen Mary, feasting 
with her unworthy Bothwell, startled from revelry by the voice of 



172 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

insurrection, and finally obliged to escape in the disguise of a page, 
comes before us with that deep interest, which is excited by every 
vicissitude of her melancholy story." In pacing through the so- 
litude of this august room, the words of the plaintive ditty can 
scarce be absent from the mind of the visitor : 

** I feel like one who treads alone 

Some banquet hall deserted, 
Whose lights are fled, whose garland's dead, 

And au but me departed.** 

There is one small room in this castle, which is unique in its* 
position, and unlike the rest in its dimensions ; but it has an inde- 
scribable interest attached to it. It goes by the name of the 
Queen's Room. Like all those celebrated in the history of Mary, 
it is of diminutive size ; but bears marks of having been hung with 
tapestry. In most of the old castles, there was a room of this 
kind, which went by the name of the Lady's Bower ; and there 
can be little doubt, that this was the identical room occupied by 
Mary during the few last days in which she qould be considered 
as her own mistress ; — from that room she went to all her sorrows. 

The roof of the upper hall shows striking symptoms of decay. 
*Should it fall into the hall beneath, the damage will be incalcula- 
ble : and the present state of the neighbouring Castle of Crichton, 
one of the ancient towers of which now covers the court-yard with 
a hideous ruin, may serve as a warning of what will ensue, if the 
roof of Borthwick should in like manner be rent asunder. 

No part of the castle has been inhabited for more than a century. 
Some of the ancient furniture, however, has been preserved, and is 
at present, I believe, in the possession of the proprietor, viz. an old 
oak chair, with low seat and arms, and a high back, covered with 
coronets, — an extremely curious clock, — and, I believe, a lamp, 
which last, however, I have not seen. 

The old church of Borthwick, the ruins of which still stand in 
the churchyard, and which, from the style of its architecture, is 
evidently of the same age, nearly, with the castle, is well deserving 
of notice. It is beside what was formerly the place where the al- 
tar stood, that the eflSgies of Lord and Lady Borthwick are lying. 
When used as the parish church, it must have been an object of 
much veneration to the parishioners, and have harmonized finely 
with the other objects of antiquity in its neighbourhood. Indeed, it 
was of itself fitted to have given a character to the surrounding 
scenery. Its roof, like that of the castle, is covered with stone 



BORTHWICK. 173 

flags, curiously joined, and in some places laid diagonally. It 
was burnt in May 1775. 

We have formerly noticed that there are some portions of the 
very ancient Castle of Catcune still remaining within the grounds 
of Harvieston. The ground in its neighbourhood shows that the 
building has at one time been extensive. The situation is retired 
and beautiful, but the architecture seems to have been rude and 
unomamented. 

On the brow of the elevated farm of Halfla Hill, there were 
some years ago two stone troughs, placed on square pedestals. One • 
of the troughs may still be seen in the churchyard of Borthwick. 
They were popularly called the Roman Altars, but antiquaries can 
find no resemblance to any thing Roman in them. Over the moor 
which forms the south part of the parish, there are cairns which, 
when opened, have been found to contain rude urns filled with 
burnt bones. Stone-cofiins, too, have been dug up in some parts 
of the parish. 

Currie-mill may also be mentioned, on another account, as 
among the antiquities of the parish. It was built, says tradition, by 
the original possessor of the surrounding domain, so that the Lord 
of the new castle might not be without hearing of the clack of its 
wheel. It continKOs a separate property to the present day. 

Propnttari Seats. — There are six proprietors in the parish-— 
all of whom, except one, are resident. They are, Dundas of Ar- 
niston — Mitchelson of Middleton — Dewar of Vogrie — Brown of 
Currie— Borthwick of Crookston — and Cranston of Harvieston. 
The mansion-house of Crookston is the only one not in the parish, 
it being in the neighbouring parish of Stow, where the chief pos« 
sessions oT the proprietor lie. He has two fiirms in Borthwick pa- 
rish, on one of which the castle is situated, of which, therefore, he 
is the present proprietor. 

Amistan House is on a scale suited to the extensive possessions 
and influential character of the family. It is not a very ancient 
structure — but has a general aspect of baronial dignity and afflu- 
ence — and its architecture is massy and imposing. It has long 
been celebrated for its open-hearted hospitality — and is very ge- 
nerally named with veneration and gratitude, both ou account of 
the character of its inmates — and for the scenes of festive and 
manly enjoyment of which it has been the scene. 

The land belonging to this property is not naturally of a very rich 
or productive quality— being rather spongy in its texture, and 



1 74 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

apt, unless well treated, to fall hack speedily into its natural 
state — but much, as might be expected, has been done to aug«- 
ment its capabilities — and the progress of improvement is still car- 
ried on with spirit 

The original domain, which lies contiguous to the house, is re- 
markable for many old and venerable trees, and may easily be dis* 
tinguished by the aspect of its wood from the neighbouring pro- 
perties which have been successively added to it-^and which now 
form with it one continuous domain. 

The banks of the South Esk, within this domain, are of disdn* 
guished beauty and most picturesque effect The banks of the North 
Esk, indeed, are more generally known, being more in the vicini- 
ty of the metropolis, and on a greater scale ; — and though there is 
certainly nothing in the course of the more southern stream that 
can vie with Roslin — or Hawthornden — or even with the scenery 
in the neighbourhood of Lasswade and Springfield, yet there is 
much which is fitted to awaken the liveliest emotions of delight, 
and which might, with much effect, employ the skill of the profes- 
sional draftsman, or of the amateur copyist of natural scenery. 

Immediately around the mansion-house, and along the banks of 
the small stream which flows behind it, are several trees of rare 
occurrence, of majestic size, and with which a zealous botan- 
ist would be delighted to become acquainted. The successive 
proprietors of this domain have always been zealous improvers of 
their property by planting — and the late Chief Baron kept a small 
manuscript volume, in which he occasionally inserted such notices, 
as he could obtain, of the operations, in this line, of those who had 
preceded him — and of what had been done by himself for extend- 
ing these operations. 

Shank Point, which belongs to this property, has been celebrat- 
ed by Graham in the subjoined lines, which may be considered as 
at once a correct topographical description of the locality*— and a 
rich poetical picture of the scenery which surrounds it. 

" What though fair Scotland's Tallies rarely Taunt, 

The oak majestical, whose aged boughs 

Darken a rood breadth ! yet nowhere is seen 

More beauteously profiise, wild underwood ; 

Nowhere *tis seen more beauteously profuse. 

Than on thy tangling banks, well-wooded Esk, 

And Borthwick, thine, above that fairy nook 

Formed by your blending streams. — The hawthorn there. 

With moss and lichen grey, dies of old age, 

No steel profiuie permitted to intrude : 

Up to the topmost branches climbs the rose, 

And mingles with the fiiding flowers of May ; 



BORTHWICK. 175 

While round the brier the honeytuokle wreaths 

Entwine, and with their sweet perfume embalm 

The dying rose ; a nerer failing blow 

From spring to fal1« expands ; the sloethom white. 

As if a flaky shower the leafless sprays 

Had hung ; the hawthorn. May's fair diadem ; 

The whin*8 rich dye ; the bonny broom ; the rasp 

Erect; the rose, red, white, and fiiintest pink ; 

And long-extending bramble's flowery shoots. 

<* The bank ascend — an open height appears, 
Between the double streams that wind below ; 
Look round, behold a prospect wide and &ir ;— 
The Lomond hills, wi^ Fife's town skirted shore, 
The intervening sea, Inchkeitb's grey rocks. 
With beacon -turret crowned : Arthur's proud crest. 
And Salisbury abrupt : the Penttand range 
Now peaked, and now, with undulating swell 
Heaved to the clouds : More near, upon each hand. 
The sloping woods, bulging into the glades- 
Receding then with easy artless curve— 
Behind, a grove of ancient trees, surrounds 
The ruins of a blood -cemented house 
Half prostrate laid," &c. — Birds of Scotland. 

This property, originally, was but of small extent — not exceeding^ 
as I have been informed, 400 Scots acres. The first baron of Amis- 
ton was Sir James Dundas, who was knighted by James V., some 
time between the years 1530 and 1540. Most of the old trees in 
the neighbourhood of the mansion-house are believed to have been 
planted about that time. Ccuttieton was the first accession to the pro- 
perty ; — the last family that possessed it bore the name of Bryson. 
Halkerston and Esperston were a later purchase from a family of the 
name of Liddle, some of whose descendants are still in this neigh- 
bourhood. They had a peel or place of strength at Halkerston in 
the field where the hinds' houses now stand. No vestige of it remains. 
The baronies of Shank and Htmghhead were purchased about 
the year 1756. The house of Shank is said to have been built by 
the Duke of Argyle or Earl of Bute. It was successively inha- 
bited by families of rank and importance. It must have been for 
a considerable time in the possession of the Scots of Scotstarvet, 
as they had an aisle in the old church of Borthwick adjoining to 
that of the Arniston family. Afterwards Sir George Mackenzie, 
the celebrated King's Advocate, occupied the house. It was next 
tenanted by a fiunily of the name of Grant, who seem from the 
following traditional story to have been of Highland descent, and 
to have been aware of the dignity which belonged to that cele- 
brated clan. It seems that two brothers of the name of Whyte, 
ancestors of the present venerable tenant of the .farm of Yorston, 
but at that time residing at the farm of Carrington Barns, when 



1 76 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

walking one day about the Shank braes, bargained with each other 
that one of them was to kiss the first woman they met She hap- 
pened to be a young lady of the family of Grant, then residing in 
the neighbouring mansion-house. The adventurous youth who 
had undertaken the wager immediately walked up to her and 
accomplished his purpose — upon which the lady, whether in wrath 
or in good humour is not stated, informed him, that it was well for 
him, that the scene had not been enacted in her country — the 
Highlands'—otherwise he would have paid with his head the for- 
feit of his audacity* Lord Elcho resided in the same house about 
the year 1745— and when the property of Shank was purchased 
by the Amiston family the mansion-house was inhabited by a 
Lieutenant Carnegie. The original march of the Shank property 
was within a few hundred yards of the front of Amiston House. 
The very aged oak tree which all visitors must have observed in front 
of the lawn — and which is believed to be the oldest tree on the 
estate — marks the boundary of the two original properties. About 
the year 1754 a small portion of the Harviestan property was pur- 
chased by the family of Arniston from a person of the name of 
Campbell. 

Middleton House stands at the higher part of the parish, and is 
the most elevated in its situation of any of the seats of the pro- 
prietors. It is of inferior dimensions to the house of Amiston^ 
though of the same general style of architecture, only suited to the 
smaller extent of the property to which it is attached. From an 
inscription above the principal entrance it appears to have been 
built in the year 1710. — It is surrounded by an extensive wood of 
tall beech trees — and has a general air of quiet and genteel seclu- 
sion. Being in the immediate neighbourhood of Middleton moor 
and of the Lammermuir hills, it is considered to be a healthy situa- 
tion — and is much valued for the advantages which it offers to per<P» 
sons who are fond of rural sports. Its extensive woods— its neigh- 
bourhood to the old and quiet-looking village of Middleton— and 
its proximity to the green hills which border the moor on the 
south, give it altogether an aspect which most persons regard with 
pleasure. The garden is kept in a very superior style, though the 
roots of the trees seem soon to find an unhealthy subsoil, which 
renders it expedient to keep their branches as low as possible. The 
ornamented grounds in the vicinity are the admiration of all visi- 
tors. The proprietors have repeatedly attempted to enhance the 
beauty of this locality by forming a pond in the centre of the or- 



BOllTHWICK. 177 

namented grounds — but the site being in the course of the stream 
ivhich passes behind the mansion house, has been found insufficient 
to resist the mass of water which occasionally pours from the 
streamlets of the moorland — and which has repeatedly borne all 
before it — and descended through the neighbouring valley^ not 
without risk of considerable damage and danger to the inhabitants. 
It is not likely that the attempt to construct a pond will be repeat- 
ed) nor is it desirable, though a great additional beauty to the 
grounds has thus been rendered impossible to be realized'. 

Currie House formerly stood on a piece of rising ground over- 
looking the old church and valley of Borthwick— and having an ex- 
tensive view of the distant landscape and of the Pentland hills. It 
was surrounded by some old and valuable trees, and had an avenue 
leading to the garden, which lies on the haugh adjoining the stream 
which flows through the valley. The house was taken down about 
thirty years since — and a great part of the old wood was cut about 
the same time. The proprietor then took up his residence in what 
was originally a much smaller hou&e upon his property, and which 
is said to have been, in former times, an inn for the accommoda- 
tion of persons, who, in travelling to the south, thought proper to 
halt for a short time to view the ruins of the castle, and the beau- 
ties of the adjoining valley. The house was improved by some ex- 
cellent additions, and when seen from the high road or from any of 
the neighbouring points, embosomed as it seems to be amidst its 
sheltering woods, and reposing in the shadow of the ancient castle, 
it has a pleasing aspect of rural retreat and comfort. A consider- 
able quantity of young wood has been planted — and the garden, 
which is of excellent soil, and beautifully situated, may be expect- 
ed eventually to become one of the chief ornaments of the vicinity. 

But the most attractive spot belonging to this property is un- 
questionably the precipitous and richly wooded piece of scenery 
known by the name of Currie wood. It is not generally known even 
to persons who have visited the neighbourhood for the purpose of 
becoming acquainted with its beauties, and who commonly see but 
the termination of this wood as it opens upon the level ground which 
lies in the immediate vicinity of the castle. It is, however, well worth 
a visit from persons of taste — and has seldom been so visited with- 
out drawing forth expressions of wonder that a piece of scenery so 
like some of the best of the Highland passes, though on a smaller 
scale, should not be more generally known. A path has been formed 
ascending upwards through the wood — and gradually rising to stiU 

EDINBURGH. M 



178 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

wider and more beautiful prospects, till at the upper extremity the 
whole scene bursts upon the eye with a grandeur and effect which 
might be transferred to the canvass of the most accomplished ar- 
tist, without alteration, or addition to its parts. In the fore-ground 
are the deep woods with the stream winding far beneath at the 
outlet of the valley appears the venerable castle as if guarding the 
entrance into the enchanted scene — farther in the distance is seen 
the wide expanse of cultivated landscape that lies between the ob- 
server and the Pentland hills ; — and lastly, those lovely hills them- 
selves with their elegant outline, and ever-varying tints, complete a 
portion of Nature's scenery which she seems to have placed so as to 
elude the gaze of more careless observers — but which is not on that 
account the less dear to those who have been accustomed, whlMMt 
fear of intrusion, to dwell with delight on its secluded beauties. 

In pursuing his way through this wood, the observer will be espe- 
cially struck with the many magnificent roots of old oak trees, which 
DOW rise, often deeply covered with moss, from most of the pro- 
jecting eminences and vantage grounds of the locality. They are 
evidently the remains of trees which flourished many centuries ago 
—which may have waved in the time of Bruce, — and beside which 
the steel-clad and grey- haired follower of Wallace may have rested 
his spear. Nothing can be more striking than the grotesque and 
varied forms into which these " old fantastic roots have wreathed" 
themselves — and in one instance a huge mass of stone is actually 
held suspended by one of them in the air, as if it intended by this 
phenomenon to intimate, with what living energy it once embraced 
the solid rock beneath — ^and what strength still remains to it even 
amidst the decrepitude of age, as a remnant of the surpassing and 
gigantic might of its years of youthful or of matured vigour. 

Vogrie House is the seat of a proprietor whose possessions ex- 
tend over the whole of the eastern and a great part of the middle 
portion of the parish. The house is of a kind, which is frequently 
met with in situations where external ornament did not seem to 
form any very desirable part of the building. It is narrow — long 
•—high walled— evidently built with no view to a very extended 
duration, and with no pretensions to architectural embellishment.' 
The late proprietor, however, had it in contemplation to build a 
house in a much more elegant and modern style — and the stables 
which were the first part of the proposed plan that was completed, 
afford a specimen of the taste and splendour with which the entire 
design would havebeen executed. Although this plan, however, faajB^ 

3 



BORTHWICK. 179 

from unavoidable circumstances, been left unfinished, much has re- 
cently been done for improving and beautifying the estate by ex- 
tensive plantations, and by the formation of superb and judiciously 
arranged shrubberies. The glens in the neighbourhood of the house 
have always been objects of admiration to visitors — many fine trees 
spring from the bottom of the valleys with picturesque and com- 
manding effect — and the garden is in the most improved style 
of such luxuries. Eventual I v^ there is reason to believe, that 
Vogrie will be a highly cultivated portion of the general landscape 
— and will do honour to the taste and judgment of those who have 
lately devoted themselves to the improvement of it. 

Harvieston House seems to have been originally of the same 
general style of building with Vogrie, though on a smaller scale, 
suited to the limited possessions of the proprietor of whom it is 
the seat. Some additions, however, have been made to it, which 
have somewhat improved its originally tame and unornamented as- 
pect — and the adjoining lawn and shrubbery grounds are not un- 
tastefully sprinkled with trees — some of which are of considerable 
size and value. The ground is naturally swampy, but every thing 
was done by the late proprietor to give to the place all the advantages 
of which it is susceptible. He used to say, that when he first got 
his property, a great part of it was in such a state that he could 
not walk over it ; and that he had ultimately expended as much 
money in bringing it into its present state, as would have enabled 
him to cover it with bank notes. The bowling green, with its 
adjacent shrubbery, has an air of much neatness, and of tasteful 
arrangement 

III. — Population. 

Id 1755, the population of the parish was 910 

In 1801, 842 

In 1821. 1345 

In 1831, ..... 1470 

There has been a gradual increase in the numbers tilt the pre- 
sent year, the increase seeming to depend entirely upon the im- 
proving state of the country, which renders more hands necessary 
for carrying on the labours of the field, and for supplying the ac- 
cessory wants of those who are so employed. 

The tenantry are almost all of them men of superior character 
and information ; and few districts, it is believed, could produce a 
better specimen of Scottish yeomanry. 

Although this parish is in the heart of a coal district, and though 
there are villages all round us peopled by colliers, it is but of late 



180 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

that any families of that class have had houses in this parish. At pre* 
sent there are not more than six or eight such families. The po- 
pulation, therefore, may be considered as almost entirely occupied 
in agriculture, and in such branches of commerce or of trade as 
are necessary in all communities. 

The men who work at the powder manufactory must also, how- 
ever, be taken into account. They are, in general, of a very re- 
spectable character. 





Males. 


Females. 


In 1821, the numbers below 15 yean of age were 


278 


289 


from 15 to 30, 


156 


179 


30 to 50, 


114 


146 


50 to 70, 


83 


96 


70 to 90, 


12 


22 



Total, 643 702 

The yearly average of births at that time was about 30 

deaths, .... 20 
marriages, . .11 

At present the arerage of births is alwut . . 35 

deaths, » ... 25 
marriages, ... 16 

The number of illegitimate births in the parish within the last 
three years, is 16. 

The number of fiimilies employed in agriculture is about 186 

trade, * •* 60 
other fiunilies, • . 51 

Families in aU, 297 

Average number in each &mily, 4) 

The population having been encreased by 100 since the census 
was taken in 1821, some allowance must be made in the relative 
proportions of births, deaths, and marriages, as adapted to the 
present numbers. I have not had an opportunity of ascertaining 
these numbers more precisely. 

The situation of the parish is reckoned favourable to healthy 
and some instances of persons attaining to a very advanced age are 
occasionally occurring. 

Less rain is said to fall in this neighbourhood than in the ad* 
joining districts,~-the clouds being detained or carried off by the 
Lammermuir hills on the south, and by the Pentland hills on the 
north-west. Yet the people who live along the open country be- 
tween us and the Pentland range, commonly look to the appear- 
ance of the atmosphere over our valley for signs of the weather 
—and the ordinary command given to those who are sent out to 
obtain such information is, ^' Go see how the bok of Borthwick 
looks.'' This, however, arises not from our climate being more sub- 



BORTHWICK. 181 

ject to rain than that of the level country — but from the peculiar 
configuration of our glen — which apparently stretches considerably 
backwards among the lower hills, as seen from a distance— and over 
which, consequently, the atmosphere is better distinguished in its 
varied shades, according as it is fitted to indicate clear and set- 
tled, or showery and troubled weather. We, again, look to the tints 
of the Pentland hills — or to the aspect of the clouds which settle 
on them, as our symptoms of weather. 

Diseases in general are not more virulent with us than in any 
other portion of the country. Most of the diseases which have of 
late years been so fatal in some other districts have passed over us 
but slightly — ^such as cholera— typhus and scarlet fever. The 
small-pox is at this moment raging in one of our villages— but 
though the vesicles are very numerous, I have not yet heard of any 
mortal cases. 

IV. — Industry. 

Jffriculture.-'^A general spirit of improvement is apparent on al- 
most every farm of this parish. The land is let chiefly on leases 
of nineteen years endurance. The course of tillage most success- 
fully followed on the arable lands is what is called the five-course 
shift — two-fifths of the farm being in grass, two-fifths in corn, and 
one-fifth in fallow or drilled turnips and potatoes. The usual crops 
are wheat, oats, barley, turnip, potatoes, and hay. The manures 
usually applied are lime and farm-yard dung. Within these few 
years, however, bone-dust has been used with success. The ex- 
tent of land in the farms under regular tillage varies from 90 to 
about 300 acres. Some of the largest farms in the upper part of 
the parish, containing each from 200 to 300 acres of tillage land, 
have fully an equal quantity of moorland attached to them, which 
is only partially and occasionally brought under the plough. The 
rent of the land in tillage varies from 15s. to L. 2 per acre. Some 
rich old grass fields let annually for pasture at nearly L. 3 per 
acre. • 

Live-Stocky Sfc, — The short-homed kind of cattle are those 
usually bred in the parish. The sheep bred and fed in the parish 
are generally of the Cheviot and black-faced breed. A cross be- 
twixt the Leicester and Cheviot has been introduced with success 
—and that stock is now to be found on every farm of suitable ex- 
tent The local advantage of lime-kilns in the parish is duly ap^ 
preciated by the tenantry. A large extent of waste land has with- 
in these few years been reclaimed and strongly limed, and again 



]82 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

laid down in pasture for rearing Iambs of the improved breed, and 
feeding of stock generally. This change of system has produced 
a corresponding increase of turnip husbandry. The prices of 
cattle, grain, hay, and all kinds of farm produce are regulated 
by the Edinburgh and Dalkeith markets. — The greater part of 
the arable land is enclosed with thorn hedges. 

fVoffes. — Married ploughmen, or hinds, as they are called, are 
usually hired by the year ; and the wages are, for an able man, 
L. 8 in money, 6^ bolls of oatmeal, 2 bolls of grain, commonly 
barley and pease in equal quantities, a cow's keep, 1000 lineal 
yards of potatoes planted in the field, carriage of fuel, and a house 
and garden. By way of rent for the house, some person, provided 
by the hind, shears to the master for twenty days, or during the 
harvest ; the master furnishing victuals only, but paying no wages. 
The hind also furnishes a person to carry the corn from the stack* 
yard to the barn to be thrashed. 

The wages of ordinary labourers are from 9s. to 10s. per week; 
but able labourers, accustomed to work in quarries, drains, and the 
like, receive from 12s. to 14s. per week. 

It is now very much the practice to execute by contract all kind& 
of work that will admit of being properly carried on in that way. 

The bye-roads in the parish are in a very imperfect state ; the 
amount of the legal assessment for statute labour being very in«- 
adequate to keep them in repair. 

Qtiarries and jMin^^.— Freestone is abundant, and one quarry is 
wrought for sale. Limestone also abounds, and lime-burning ia 
extensively carried on.. Part of the lime is sent to Edinburgh for 
building; but the principal part of it is applied to agricultural pur* 
poses in the neighbouring districts. The lime usually sells at the 
rate of Is. 9d. per boll of the old barley measure. 

Minerals. — Coal, on the property of James Dewar, Esq. of 
Vogrie, is extensively wrought. The principal seams are from 
three to four feet in thickness. The Vogrie coal is reckoned of 
superior quality, and sells at a higher price than most of the coal 
wrought in the neighbourhood. The great coal sells at from 8s. 
to 10s. per ton. The smaller coal or chews, much used as fuel by 
the labouring classes, sell at from 5s. to 6s. per ton. Very little of 
the coal goes to Edinburgh ; the chief consumpt of it is in the 
south country, towards Galashiels, Selkirk, and Peebles.* 

* The preceding account of the Industry and Agriculture of the parish was fur- 
niiihed chiefly by the late Alexander Inncs, land steward to James Dewar, Esq. of 
Vogrie. It has also been revised and enlarged by an intelligent tenant in the neigh* 
bourfaood. 



BORTHWICK. 183 

v.— Parochial Economy. 
Villages. — There are six villages of considerable size in the pa- 
rish, with many groups of scattered cottages over the whole of the 
district More than one-half of the population are collected in 
the villages — the rest being distributed either among the groups 
of cottages— or living as hinds upon the different farms. 

Ford is portioned out between three adjoining parishes, which 
meet at the bridge in the centre of the village. It was once a beau- 
tiful and thriving place, quietly embosomed in its own little valley— 
but has lately fallen much into decay ; — that part of it which be- 
longs to the parish of Borthwick contains five families — and the 
number of the inmates is about 20. 

Dewarton is one of the most considerable — and certainly the 
neatest looking village in the parish. It consists chiefly of feus 
on the estate of Vogrie. The houses are ranged in one line 
along the road — the opposite side being occupied by a small plan- 
tation, along which a copious stream of. pure water flows at all 
times, supplying the inhabitants with the means of cleanliness and 
comfort, and adding much to the pleasant and healthful appear- 
ance of the place. When the present incumbent first knew it, it 
was chiefly tenanted by aged people — but of late years it has been 
occupied by persons in the prime of life, who have numerous fa-' 
milies ; — and there is now no part of the parish where a greater 
number of children may be observed, enjoying the sports of the 
evening, and giving an animated air to the village. Their edu- 
cation, however, it is to be regretted, is not in all instances so well 
attended to, as might be expected. The number of inhabitants 
is about 150. 

Newlandrigg is a much older village than Dewarton, but it lies 
much out of the common thoroughfare, and has little connected 
with it to awaken a spirit of animation or of enterprise. Several 
of the houses are at present untenanted, and some are falling into 
entire decay. A considerable number of old people take up their 
residence in it. The entire number of the population is about 100. 
Clay Houses derives its name from an ancient inn of the same 
denomination, which stood by the way side, when the road to 
Gala Water and the south passed in this line. A part of the old 
Clay House still remains, though considerably altered by addi- 
tions — and several other more recent cottages have been erected 
in the neighbourhood. The number of inhabitants is about 40. 
Stohbs Milk is a village of recent date, having been built al- 



184 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

most entirely with a view to the accommodation of the workmen 
employed in the neighbouring powder manufactory. The people, 
though employed in a hazardous occupation, are far from being 
reckless or unprincipled in their habits. On the contrary, the au- 
thor has always found them to be among the most regular and 
exemplary of his parishioners — and they are at present superin- 
tended by a master who makes their religious and moral improve- 
ment an object of his conscientious attention. The number of in- 
habitants is about 70. 

Castleton is a quiet village in the western extremity of the pa- 
rish. It is tenanted by about eight families, who are chiefly em- 
ployed in agriculture. They live in great harmony with each other, 
— and are, indeed, free from most of the ordinary causes of dis- 
sension or of vicious indulgence. 

Middletan was formerly a place of some importance, and, in- 
deed, the chief village of the parish. The great road to the south 
formerly passed through it — and it was one of the chief seats of 
the tinkers or gypsies. The new road, however, has taken a dif- 
ferent line — the tinkers have resigned their former occupations, 
and have become mixed up with the native inhabitants — and this 
once stirring and adventurous village is now a place of great quiet, 
and chiefly remarkable for the retired and unobtrusive character 
of those who inhabit it There are two farm-houses connected 
with it, in the employment of which several of the inhabitants are 
engaged, — ^the rest of the population being either old people, or 
persons occupied in such trades as are necessary for the accom- 
modation of any similar collection of houses. The general appear- 
ance of the village is by no means unpleasing. The number of 
the inhabitants is about 120. 

Besides these more considerable villages, there are, we have said, 
several groups of cottages in difierent parts of the parish, which 
can scarcely aspire to the dignity of villages, though they add much 
to the general efiect of the landscape. The inhabitants are chief- 
ly occupied in such miscellaneous employments as are demanded 
by the wants or conveniences of the surrounding country. The 
most remarkable of these are, — The Brewery^ which takes its 
name from a building formerly used in the brewing of ale, but of 
which only one high and very hard wall now remains. — BelPs 
Mainsy a collection of moss-covered cottages, which stand near the 
highway, and at that particular part where the old avenue to the 
grounds of Arniston formerly opened. — Fushie Bridge^ well known 



BORTHWICK. ' 185 

to all travellers towards the southern districts. — Caicune Mill, still 
a place of active business, though several of the old cottages are 
how in a state of dilapidation.— ^or^A Middleton, a line of cottages 
by the way side, which have chiefly been built within the last 
twelve years — and Borthwick itself, which has fewer cottages now 
than in former days — ^and but two or three scattered groups, which 
form, however, no unpleasing contrast to the more imposing struc- 
tures in their vicinity. These cottages are clustered round the 
very base of the castle — and with their mossy roofs — and simple 
structure-*and small garden plots, serve rather to complete than 
to encumber the picture which the whole scene presents to the 
eye of taste and of sensibility. 

Farms. — There are in all twenty-seven farms in the parish, of 
which the chief are the following : — Belonging to Amiston, six, 
viz. Halkerston and Haugh head, Arniston Mains, Shank Mains, 
Castleton, and Stobbs Mills. Belonging to Middleton, or former- 
ly connected with it, Middleton Upper, Middleton Lower and 
Torcraik, Lime-kilns, and formerly Hayfield. Belonging to Cur- 
rie, Currie Mains, Halfla Kill, Old Currie, and formerly Wright's 
Houses. Belonging to Vogrie, Ford, Woodhead, Vogrie Mains, 
Mount Skip, New House, Loquharriot, Borthwick Mains, Cat- 
cune. Hag Brae, Stobbs, and Fushie. Belonging to Crookstone, 
Borthwick farm and C!owbrae Hill. To most of these are at- 
tached the ordinary complement of hinds' houses and other cot- 
tages. 

Gypsies or Tinkers. — We have already said that these do not 
now exist as a separate tribe in Middleton, but are much inter- 
mingled by marriage with the common people of this and the 
neighbouring parishes. In some instances they have accomplish- 
ed matches of a yet higher kind. Their prevailing names are 
Baillie, Tait, and Wilson. They are, in general, less under the 
influence of religious impressions than the native population, 
but are eagerly devoted to business, and retain, even. in their 
mixed state, something of the adventurous and active spirit of their 
original condition. Their manners, when they are not excited, are 
courteous and plausible, — but they are terrible in their resentment^ 
and subject to strong paroxysms of nervous feeling. They are clan- 
nish, though not proud, so far as I have observed, of their original 
descent. In occasional instances, the dark complexion, and well- 
formed features, and sparkling eye of the purer race may be dis- 
covered—but, in general, their colour is rather cadaverous, or of a 
darkish pale — their cheek-bones high — their eyes small and light- 



186 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

coloured— their hair of a dingy white or red colour, and wiry ; and 
their skin drier and of a tougher texture than that of the people of 
this country. 

Their wandering tribes still frequent the bye-paths and wood** 
sides of this district ; they are then distinguished by the epithet 
of Campers — ^and during the summer months there are few of the 
more retired lanes or hedge-sides where their tents may not be 
seen erected — their travelling-cart resting on its beams — ^their fire 
kindled and meat cooking — their asses feeding by the wayside — 
their children sprawling half-naked — the men busied in forming 
osier work or tin vessels — and the women hawking them among the 
neighbouring villages or cot-houses. So far us I have seen or ex- 
perienced, they are a harmless, though sadly uneducated race ; 
nor do I think that it is possible to reclaim them, except by inter- 
marriage with the rest of the community. In proof of their former 
lawless habits, it may be mentioned, that when, about half a cen- 
tury ago, it was proposed to erect a grave-stone in the church-yard 
of Berth wick for one of them, and this was objected to by the na- 
tives, as a thing quite unusual in the case of tinkers, the objection 
was set aside by a sagacious heritor, who observed that in his 
opinion, the man deserved such an honour, as being perhaps the 
first of his race who ever came to so respectable an end. 

Ecclesiastical State. — ^What now constitutes this parish belong- 
ed formerly to the collegiate kirk of Crichton. In April 1596, 
King James I. of England, dissolved from the said collegiate kirk 
the prebendaries of Ardnalestone, (now Arniston,) of Middleton 
first and second, and of Vogrie, of old called Loquharriot, with 
two boys or clerks to assist in the performance of divine service^ 
with suitable salaries annexed to their office. These prebendaries, 
with the haiU vicarage of Borthwick, fruits, rents, manse, and glebe 
thereof, were then, by a royal charter, erected into a [distinct 
and separate charge, in all time coming, to be called the parson- 
age of Borthwick. This deed was afterwards, in 1606, solemn- 
ly ratified to parliament, and in 1609, confirmed by the Archbishop 
of St Andrews, as the undoubted patron of said prebendaries. 

The old church, which, from the style of its architecture, seems 
to have been coeval with the castle, having been burnt in 1775, 
the present place of worship was finished in 1778. It is a sub- 
stantial and commodious building, and was originally designed 
to contain 500 sitters, but from some subsequent arrangement of 
the seats, it does- not at present contain so many. The number 
of communicants at present is 400. 



BORTHWICK. 187 

The inanse» being partly very old, is not in all respects so con- 
venient as most of the houses which have recently been erected 
or repaired for the use of parish ministers, — ^but it is a venerable 
mansion, — and at no very distant period must be replaced by one 
more suited to the taste of the present times. 

The glebe consists of rather more than 12 acres, some of 
which are of excellent soil and arable, — the rest marshy and for- 
merly deemed incapable of improvement ; but during the incum- 
bency of the present minister, the whole of this part has been drain- 
ed, and, with the exception of one small spot, made to carry excel- 
lent crops. It is rented at L. 28 per annum. The garden is large, 
and has a good variety of soil ; it produces most abundant crops 
both of the larger and smaller fruits, and has indeed few rivals in 
so £ar as the size and quality of its gooseberies and currants are con- 
cerned. Apples, pears, and plums, also thrive well in it, and most 
of the common flowers ornament its borders. 

The stipend, besides the manse and other usual appendages, con- 
sists of 124 bolls, with some additional 6 riots, pecks, and lippies 
of grain-^the one-half being barley, and the other oatmeal, and 
L. 78 of money. 

The present incumbent is the nineteenth minister who has had 
the pastoral superintendence of the parish of Borthwick since the 
Reformation. The following is a list of his predecessors in office 
— with the years of their induction and removal :— Mr Thomas 
Cranston, 1567-1569 ; Mr John Colthen, 1586 ; Mr James 
Hunter, 1593; Mr Adam Scott, 1595-1596; Mr John Murray, 
1596-1603; Mr Patrick Turner, 1604r-1629; Mr James Por- 
teous, 1629-1651 ; Mr Archibald Turner, 164S-1649; Mr John 
Weir, 1652-1657; Mr Thomas Paterson, 1657-1683; Mr Tho- 
mas Paterson, 1683-1689; Mr John Campbell, 1689-1690; 
Mr William Trail, 1690-1714; Mr William Robertson, 1714- 
1733; Mr Thomas Turnbull, 1734-1786; Mr James Finlayson, 
1787-1790 ; Mr John Clunie, 1791-1819; Mr Robert Smith, 
1814-1818; Mr Thomas Wright, 18ia* 

Of 300 families, vrhich is about the number in the parish, 60 
may be reckoned as belonging to the Secession — and 240 to the 
Established Church. But Dissenting meeting-houses commonly 
are so situated as to draw their attendants from several parishes^ 
There is one meeting-house of Dissenters in the eastern extremity 

• For the above list, the author is indebted to the Rev. I lew Scott, Minister of 
Anstruther, whose researches in this line are known to haye been couductcd with 
great perseverance and success. 



188 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

of the parish — but it can scarcely be considered from its situation 
as having any effect in withdrawing the people of this parish from 
the Established Church. There is another Dissenting meeting- 
house in the village of Gore Bridge belonging to the parish of 
Temple, to which most of the Dissenters in the parish are attach* 
ed. But there has all along been a conciliatory spirit on the part 
of Churchmen and Dissenters, in this part of the country, to each 
other — and the Established clergyman has always had as free an 
access into the houses of the Dissenters as into those of his own 
communion. It is greatly to be desired that this kindly and truly 
Christian spirit may long be maintained. 

The people connected with the Established Church are in ge- 
neral regular attendants on divine worship, and most exemplary in 
their demeanour, both during divine service, and whenever, in 
their own houses, any of the offices of religion are performed. 

Education, — Besides the parochial school there are at present 
two other private schools, both of which, however, are at present 
but poorly attended. The average numbers in the parochial school 
are about 80. The parochial teacher has the maximum salary of 
L. 34, 4s. 4id. He has the l^al accommodations in other respects 
— and draws the usual fees as session-clerk, heritors clerk, &c. 
There is a small mortification of L. 3, 17s. for the benefit of the 
teacher of the private school in Newlandrigg. This sum was mor- 
tified by a person of the name of Sir James M^Lurg. 

The branches taught at all the schools are the usual elementary 
branches — viz. reading, writing, arithmetic, &c 

The present minister has been in the habit for many years of vi- 
siting all the schools once every month. He then prepares the 
scholars for undergoing an examination on the first Sabbath of 
every month in the parish church — and on the Monday after the 
dispensation of the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper, an account is 
taken of all that has been done during the preceding months of the 
year — ^and prizes are distributed. This plan has had excellent 
effects, both in increasing the religious information of the scholars, 
and in promoting their attention to their daily and more secular 
studies. The teachers have all co-operated zealously with the 
minister in the prosecution of this plan, and it has been universally 
acceptable to the parents and friends of the young. 

Literature* — There is a library in the neighbouring village of 
Gore Bridge, which has a good and extensive assortment of books ; 
and has been productive of many good effects. It owes its origin to 



BORTHWICK. 189 

the late James Mill surgeon — who foresaw the good it was likely 
to do, and zealously set himself to give a beginning to the scheme. 

Savings Bank. — A bank of this kind was instituted in this pa* 
rish in May 1815. Most of the leading proprietors and tenants 
became managers — and the institution having thus from the first 
obtained the entire confidence of the parishioners, has continued to 
thrive, while most of the other banks of the same kind, which were 
set agoing about the same time, in neighbouring parishes, have 
ceased to exist The circumstance which has chiefly contributed 
to the success of our institution has been the perfect confidence re- 
posed by the contributors, in the kindness and good faith and pru- 
dent conduct of all the persons entrusted with the management 
The depositors are chiefly young men and women. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of applications for pa- 
rochial relief has been on the increase for a considerable number 
of years. The number at present on the regular roll is 25. These 
persons receive at an average 5s. 6d. monthly — ^and this is defray- 
ed by the collections at the church door, by the money paid for the 
use of a mortcloth — and bv an assessment on the heritors and te- 
nants. The collections average about Ids. 6d. each Sabbath, or 
L.35, lOs. annually. The mortcloth money is about L.5, lOs. per 
annum — and the assessment on the heritors and tenants amounts 
at present to about L. 60 per annum. 

The unwillingness to come upon the parish is not perhaps so 
great as it once was; but in general the people do not seem to ask 
relief till it is absolutely necessary — so that the heritors and session 
have seldom occasion to refuse the applications that are made. 

Indeed, the fault is scarcely in any instance on the part of the 
aged applicants, who are always unwilling to be placed on the poor's 
roll. It lies with the younger generation, who are less disinclined 
than formerly, to have it said that their parents are obtaining pa- 
rochial relief — and who leave them to that aid, that they may 
themselves enter into the married state. 

Inns, — There are but 9 alehouses in the parish, but as the great 
south road passes through the centre of it, a great proportion of 
them are upon it, — and hence, a passing observer might be disposed 
to conclude that we are more than ordinarily provided with accom- 
modations of this sort, although, in fact, when the entire extent of 
the parish is considereo, our number is below the average allowed 
in other places. The most remarkable inns on the great road are, 
Arniston Inn, Fushie Bridge, Currie Inn, and Middleton Inn. All 



190 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

• 

the inns are well kept, and have had no perceptible bad effects upon 
the morals of the people. As several of these inns are much fre- 
quentedy there is, of course, collected in their neighbourhood, a 
considerable number of persons necessary for the operations re- 
quired in them. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
Although the parish generally is in an improving state, yet it 

is notorious that most of the properties in the parish are very 
heavily burdened, and that thus the exertions of the proprietors for 
the improvement of their estates — and for the bettering of the con- 
dition of their tenantry, are very much impeded. 

The orderly and kind disposition of the people merits high com- 
mendation. No great vices are practised among them ; they are 
most observant of the offices of religion ; live in good agreement 
with each other, notwithstanding any differences of religious pro- 
fession ; and seem anxious to obey, even on a hint, the wishes of 
their superiors, both civil and ecclesiastical. Their respectful and 
decent appearance, during the public solemnities of religion, has 
gained the admiration of all strangers — and their minister would be 
ungrateful not to acknowledge, that they seem, on every occasion, 
to have almost anticipated his wishes. 

Still the tendency to change, which is at present abroad over the 
world, may be descried by a close observer of events, even within 
the hitherto quiet precincts of our retired and romantic valley; and 
I have no doubt, that, when a few more years have elapsed, much 
that has characterized both the customs and the spirit of the people 
will have been succeeded by other habits— and by new tenden- 
cies of thought. But whether the change shall be for good or for 
evil, is a question to which opposite answers will assuredly be given 
— and which no living man, perhaps, is able to answer satis&c- 
torily. 

October 1839. 



PARISH OF CRANSTON. 

PR£8BYT£RY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. ALEXANDER WELSH, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
^am€.— The name of the parish of Cranston or Cranstoun, in 

the charters of the twelfth century, was written Cranestone^ the 
As^o-^SaxoD, CraenstoTiy signifying the crane's district, or resort. 
The river Tyne, where it intersects CranstoBy is even now frequent- 
ed by cranes, that find shelter in the woods, and fish in the water. 
In the twelfth century, Cranston was divided into two manors, 
Upper Cranston and Nether Cranston, which were afterwards distin- 
guished as New Cranston and Cranston Ridel. The church stood 
at Nether Cranston, which was the larger of the two manors. This 
district was granted by Earl Henry to Hugh Ridel. From him it 
obtained the name of Cranston Ridel, which distinguished it till 
recent times. Hugh Ridel granted to the monks of Kelso, the 
church of Cranston, with its tithes and other pertinents, for the soul 
of David L, and for that of Earl Henry, his lord ; and it continu- 
ed with them till 1317. During that long period, they enjoyed 
the revenues of the rectory, while the vicar served the cure and re- 
ceived the vicarage tithes. Adam de Malsarveston was vicar 
of Cranston during the reign of William the Lyon. In 1296, 
Hugh, the vidkr of Cranston, swore fealty to Edward I. The church 
of Cranston was early of great value ; and in the ancient taxatio, 
it was valued at 60 merks. The barony of Cranston Ridel con- 
tinued with the Ridels till the reign of David IL, when it passed, 
successively, by various transmissions, through the Murrays to the 
Macgills, who acquired the church of Cranston. Sir James Mac- 
gill, in 1651, was created Viscount Oxenford and Lord Macgill 
of Cousland. He dying in 1663, left the whole estates and pa- 
tronage to his son Robert, who died without, male issue in 1706. 
By another series of heirs, these estates and the patronage came to 
Lady Dalrymple Hamilton Macgill, spouse of the late, and' mother 
of the present Sir John Hamilton Dalrymple, Bart. There was 



1 



192 EDINBURGHSHIRE. ^ 

of old a chapel at Cranston, which served the lord and tenants of 
the manor. The monks probably retained this chapel till the 
Reformation dissolved such connexions. The manor and chapel- 
ry of Cousland were annexed to or merged in the parish of Cran- 
ston at the Reformation. The chapel stood on the south side of 
the village of Cousland, where its remains may still be traced, 
with its almost forgotten cemetery. It was probably dedicated to 
St Bartholomew, as some lands near it retain the name of Bar- 
tholomew's Firlot. 

Extent, 4i'c. — The parish of Cranston" extends about 5 miles in 
length, and 3 in breadth. It is bounded by the parishes of Inver- 
esk and Ormiston on the east ; by Crichton and Borthwick on the 
south ; and by Newbattle on the west and north. It contains 4778 
acres, and is somewhat in the form of an hour-glass, being very 
narrow in the middle. 

Topographical Appearances, Sfc, — There are neither mountains 
nor hills, but the face of the parish is unequal ; and the gentle swell- 
ings of the ground, the picturesque valley of the Tyne, the noble 
seats on its banks, with the intermixture of enclosures and planta- 
tions, render it very beautiful. The prospects from the higher 
grounds are rich and extensive. The climate is mild and salu- 
brious, llie river Tyne runs through the parish from south to 
north, and though here but a small rivulet, it widens in its pro- 
gress before it fal)s into the Forth at Tyningham near Dunbar. 

Quarries of freestone or sandstone and limestone, and several 
coal-pits, belonging to Sir John H. Dalrymple, and William Burn 
Callander, Esq. are wrought in various places, and make a good 
return. Coals are sold at lOd. per load, lime at Is. lOd. per 
bolL Many petrifactions have been found, and even some live 
toads are said to have been found imbedded in the solid lime- 
stone rocL A great many boulders were dug out of the new line 
of road between Pathhead and Fordel. The direction and dip of 
the strata and beds of coal are in some places from north to south, 
in others from east to west ; the depth of the pits is from 14 to 25 fa- 
thoms ; the thickness of the seams is from 16 inches to 4 feet. The 
soil consists partly of clay, and partly of light land. The whole is 
arable, fertile, and well adapted for producing all kinds of grain. 
There are some very large trees in the grounds of Oxenford Castle 
and Prestonhall. At Cakemoor there is a plane tree 26^ feet round 
at the base. The soil appears to be most congenial to larch, beecb^ 
and elm. 

4 



CRANSTON. 193 

11. — Civil History. 

Land'owners. — The chief land-owner is General Sir John H. 
Dalrymple, who has rather more than two-thirds of the parish, — 
the next is William Burn Callender, Esq. of Prestonhall ; after 
him Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, and Alexander Mackay, Esq. of 
Blackcastle. 

Parochicd Registers, — The parish registers are now regularly 
kept, — they are not voluminous. The baptismal register goes 
back to 1682 ; that of marriages to 1784 ; the session record to 
1783; the former session records are lost 

There is a history of the parish in manuscript, which, 1 believe, 
is now in the Advocates' Library. It was written by the late Sir 
John H. Dairy mple, father of the present Baronet. The religi- 
ous house at Cousland, formerly mentioned, was burnt by Somer- 
set when he invaded Scotland with a powerful army, to enforce 
the marriage of the beautiful Queen Mary with the young King 
of England. 

The lands of Cakemuir, though disjoined from Cranston by the 
parish of Crichton intervening, belong to this parish. The an- 
cient part of the mansion house of Cakemuir consists of a square 
tower, four storeys high, with bold projecting battlements surround- 
ing the roof. This building, still entire and inhabited, is doubtless 
of great antiquity. The extraordinarily thick and massive walls, as 
well as the style of architecture, shew the early age in which it 
was built Though .there is no certain information, when, or by 
whom it was erected, there is little doubt that it must have been 
by the Wauchopes of Cakemuir, for they appear to have held the 
lands at least for 300 years, before they were purchased by the 
present proprietor, Mr Mackay of Blackcastle. In the tower there 
is an apartment called Queen Mary's room, which, it is said, that 
unfortunate Princess, occupied, after having escaped, disguised in 
man's apparel, from the Castia of Borthwick, when that fortress 
was invested in June 1567, by Lord Home and his confede- 
rates, and before she went to join her husband Bothwell, at Dun- 
bar. This tradition seems well founded. Various documents 
show that the lands in the immediate neighbourhood formed part 
of the Lordship of Crichton, which, at the time referred to, belong- 
ed to Bothwell, Queen Mary's husband ; and that the Wauchopes 
of Cakemuir were Bothwell's vassals, consequently were designed, 
according to the custom of that age, his servitours or servants. 

Modem Buildinffs.^-^These are, Oxenford Castle, the magnifi- 

EDINBURGH. N 



194 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

cent seat of General Sir John H. Dalrymple, on the west bank of 
the Tyne, the grounds around which are very picturesque ; Pres- 
tonhall, the splendid mansion of William Burn Callender, Esq. ; 
on the opposite bank Chesterhall House, rather an old building, 
also belonging to Sir John H. Dalrymple, Bart An elegant Go- 
thic church, of freestone, was erected in 1835 ; and a very elegant 
manse, of freestone, in the manor style, was built in 1880. 

III. — Population. 
According to Dr Webster^s report, the population amounted to 

725 ; in 1 792, it was 839 ; in 1831, 1030. The increase is partly 
owing to the improved state of agriculture, the farmers being ob- 
liged to employ a greater number of hands, and partly to an ad- 
ditional number of colliers being required. The number of the 
population residing in villages is about 417, the rest reside in the 
country. The average number of recorded baptisms for the last 
seven years is 18, of marriages 7. There is no record kept of the 
deaths. 

The average number of persons under 15 years of age, is 428 

betwixt 15 and 30, . 279 

dO and 50, . 185 

50 and 70, 102 

upwards of 70, . 86 

The number of individuals of independent fortune^ ... 5 

landed proprietors of rental L. 50, and upwards, • 4 

unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50 years of 
age, is supposed to be about . • .JO 

The number of unmarried women upwards of 45 is about . . 12 

The average number in each fieimily is . . • • . 4} 

There are 2 fatuous persons in this parish. 

Number of illegitimate births within the last three years, 4. . 

Character of the People. — The people in general are cleanly, 
industrious in their habits, and content with their circumstances ; 
they enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the comforts and advantages of 
society ; are commonly well-behaved, and pay attention to the 
public ordinances of religion. The principal part of their food 
consists of oatmeal and potatoes. Poaching in game does not 
prevail to any great extent, so far as known to me. 

IV. — Industry. 
AffrieuUure. — It was in this parish that the first example of the 
drill husbandry was given. Sir John Dalrymple, great grandfather 
to the present Baronet, was the first person who introduced into 
Scotland the sowing of turnip, and the planting of cabbages, in 
the open field. He, along with Mr Cockburn of Ormiston, esta« 
blished a society for the improvement of agriculture. All the pa- 
rish i9 in cultivation, except 200 or 300 acres on the fiirm of 



CRANSTON. 195 

Cakemuir. A mildew infects the banks of the Tyne, and some- 
times does considerable damage to wheat and oats. There are 
about 250 acres under wood. The trees generally planted are 
larch, beech, fir, and elm, which are managed with great care. 

The ayerage rent of arable land is from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3 per 
acre. A cow's grass costs L. 6. 

Wages, — Masons and wrights have about ]5s. a week in sum- 
mer, and 12s. in winter. Hinds and labourers have about 10s. in 
summer, and 9s. in winter. 

Leases, — The general duration of leases is nineteen years. 
The farm buildings and enclosures are in very good condition. 
The mode of farming in general has been very much improved of 
late. The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the 
parish may be stated, as nearly as can be ascertained, as follows : 

3000 imperial bolls of potatoes at 7s. per boll. 
150 aoies of turnips, say at L. 5 per acre, consumed on the ground. 
29,000 stones of hay. 

600 acres of arable land in pasture, .at L.6> per cow, and lis. per sheep. 
1800 bolls of wheat, old measure. 
2400 imperial quarters of oats. 
700 imperial quarters of barley. 
350 imperial quarters of pease and beans. 
The produce of gardens and orchards may be about L. 800. 
The annual thinning of wood is about L. 2 per acre. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

MarkeUToum^ Sfc, — The nearest market-*town is Dalkeith, which 
is distant about three miles and three-quarters. The villages in 
the parish are Cousland, Chesterhill, and Preston. The means of 
communication by turnpike roads are very good. There are two 
excellent turnpike roads which run through the parish, the one 
about a mile and a-half, the other a mile and three-quarters. Four 
public carriages travel daily on the high road, besides waggons. 
The fences are in a very good state of repair. 

Within the last three years, two new bridges have been erected 
in this parish, by the trustees of the Dalkeith district of roads, for 
the purpose of shortening and improving the line of the London 
road by Cranston church, and the village of Pathhead. Cranston 
Dean Bridge is 46 feet in height, and consists of three semicircu- 
lar arches of 17 feet span ; the whole building is of ashler, and 
the piers being only 3 feet in thickness, the bridge has a very light 
appearance. 

Lothian Bridge, erected over the Tyne on the south boundary 
of the parish, is 82 feet in height, and consists of five semicircular 
arches of 50 feet span, surmounted by ten segment arches of 54 



f 



196 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

feet span, and 8 feet of rise. The piers are 8 feet thick, by 28 
feet broad, but hollow in the centre, as are also the abutments. 
The whole building is of ashler, presenting a happy combination 
of durability and lightness, and adding much to the ornament of 
the adjoining grounds. The erection of the bridges was suggested 
by General Sir John Hamilton Dalryrople, Bart convener of the 
trustees of the Dalkeith district of roads. They were designed 
by Thomas Telford, Esq. engineer, and built by Mr James Leesy 
mason. 

On the same line of road an embankment over the Cottv-bum, 
about half a mile to the north of Cranston church, is now made, 
the extreme height of which is 54 feet. By these operations, the 
line of road from the north end of the village of Pathhead, to the 
top of Fordel bank, a distance of about two miles, is shortened fully 
1200 yards ; the access is rendered much easier, and many fine 
prospects of the beautifully wooded and highly cultivated country 
in the neighbourhood will be opened up. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church is about 
three miles and a half from the eastern extremity of the parish, and 
three-quarters of a mile from the western extremity. It was built 
at the sole expense of General Sir John Dairy mple in 1825, and 
is a very neat structure of freestone, in the Gothic form. It can ac- 
commodate between 300 and 400 persons. An elegant new manse, 
in the manor style, with very commodious offices, was built in 1830 
at the sole expense of William Burn Callender, Esq. The ex- 
tent of the glebe is 10 acres, 3 roods, 17 falls, 4 ells, Scotch mea* 
sure ; it is let for L. 2, 10s. an acre. The stipend is 17 chalders, 
with the usual allowance for communion elements. There is also 
about L. 20 arising from the interest of L. 550, which was given 
to the living by William Burn Callender, Esq. of Prestonhall, in 
lieu of the coal on the old glebe. Divine service at the Established 
Church is well attended ; there are generally above 200 present. 
The average number of communicants is 254. The average an- 
nual amount of church collections is about L. 8. About 62 fa^* 
milies belong to the Established Church ; and about 36 are Dis- 
senting or Seceding. 

Education. — There are 3 schools in the parish, viz. the paro- 
chial school, an unendowed school in the village of Cousland,' and 
a sewing-school ; there are also 2 Sabbath schools. The branches 
of instruction generally taught are, English, writing, arithmetic, 
and book-keeping. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster i^ 



CRANSTON. 197 

the maximum. His fees may amount to L. 15 or L. 20 a year. 
He has also L. 3 a year as session*clerL He has the legal accom- 
modations. There are very few persons, indeed, above fifteen 
years of age, who caiinot read or write. The people, in general, 
are alive to the benefits of education. 

Library. — A parish library was instituted in 1830, which pro- 
mises to be highly useful to all classes. 

Friendly Society. — There is only one Friendly Society, which 
must be of great benefit to the working classes, and tends to les- 
sen the number on the poor's roll. 

Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial relief 
is about 22, who are paid, on an average, 4s. per month. The ave- 
rage annual amount of contributions at the church-doors is about 
L. 8. The hearse and mortcloth dues last year amounted to about 
L.d. There is L.16, 16s. 6d. of yearly interest arising from L. 357, 
left by some charitable persons in behalf of the poor, which capital 
was invested, some time ago, in the. public funds. The rest of the 
money that is required for the support of the poor is made up by 
assessment upon the heritors and tenants. Some of the poor con- 
sider it degrading to seek relief from the parish funds, others do 
not The assessment amounts to about L. 60 per annum. 

^/eA0t(«ej.— There are 8 alehouses, which have no good ef- 
fects upon the morals of the people. 

October 1839. 



PARISH OF HERIOT. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. ROBERT COURT, MINISTER.* 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Extent and Boundaries. — The figure of this parish is an oblong 

square form, e&tending gjeographically 6^ miles by d|. It contains 
23§ square miles, and is bounded on the south, by 'Stow ; on the 
west, by Inverleithen ; on the north, by. Temple and Borthwick ; 
and on the east, by Stow and part of Fala. It is strictly pastoral, 
and may well be denominated a parish of hills ; one acre in ten 
only being arable. The highest hill is that of Blackup Scars, on 
the north-west point, and is the most lofty in the county, being 
2193 feet above the level of the sea, and not less, I should think, 
than 1000 above the stream at its base. The next to it is that 
of Dewar, in the south-west comer, which is 1654 feet in height. 
These hills are called the Moorfoot, and are a branch of the Lam- 
mermuir and Soutra, from the east, stretching toward Peebles on 
the west. The land on the banks of the Heriot is rich and fertile, 
and, where well farmed, extremely productive. The want of a 
suitable road to the top of the parish for the conveyance of lime 
has been long felt ; and if ever accomplished, must enhance con- 
siderably the value of property, — there being many acres either 
not at all or indifferently cultivated, for want of proper access; 
and where lime has reached, there is the most marked difference. 

Climate. — The climate, though cold, is extremely salubrious, 
and many of the inhabitants arrive at a good old age. The 
healthy aspect of the children, especially, has often attracted the 
notice of strangers. 

Hydrography. — Heriot Water is the principal stream. It rises 
in the north-west end of the parish, and after a circuitous course 
of upwards of five miles, unites with the Gala, exactly at the eastern 

* Drawn up by the late Incumbent, the Rev. Edward Hume, and revised by the 
present Incumbent, the Rev. Robert Court. 



HERIOT. 199 

boundary, about a mile and a half below the church. Gala water, , 
renowned in song, rises in the north-east quarter of the parish, 
through which it runs about two miles before its junction with the 
Heriot The Heriot is subject to frequent floods, which come 
down with amazing rapidity, overflowing the banks, and sometimes 
doing considerable damage to property. The highest flood in the 
memory of the oldest inhabitants took place in August 1837. On 
that occasion, the Heriot suddenly rose with a rapidity and to a 
height wholly unprecedented. Dikes and walls of considerable 
strength were either levelled or swept away by the torrent ; and 
the low ground presented the appearance of one great sheet of 
water. 

Soil — The soil on the banks of the water is of the Gnest descrip- 
tion, and, were it not for the climate, would produce most abun- 
dant crops, which, notwithstanding, occasionally occur in good 
seasons. There is little or no wheat grown, and barley is now- 
substituted instead of bear. 

Live-stock — This parish has been long famed for its breeding 
of stock. Most of the farmers feed ofi^ cattle of their own rearing. 
They generally feed to between Gfty and sixty stones. The sheep 
are numerous, and of fine quality. They are almost wholly of 
the black-faced kind. Their lambs frequently bring the top prices. 
The number kept in the parish for breeding is 7660 in all. 

Botany, — The hills afford an inviting field for the botanist. 
Multitudes of the rarer species of plants are to be found distribut- 
ed in every corner, and are well worthy a visit from those fond of 
that delightful study in the summer months. The months of 
August and September seem the most favourable for botanizing. 
There is a great want of plantations. The larch and the beech 
and the plane thrive best. The oldest tree is a plane near the 
church called the Bell Tree, from the circumstance of the church 
bell having been suspended upon it. Its exact age cannot be as- 
certained, but it is supposed to be nearly 250 years. 

IL — Civil History. 
In regard to the civil history of the parish there is an ancient ac- 
count of it in manuscript, in the possession of A. Macdonald, Esq. 
Register Office, to whose kindness I am indebted for its perusal. It 
was drawn up in 161^7 by William Borthwick, Esq. of Hallheriot, 
now Borthwickhall, and Mr Scott, elder, Heriot-town ; and, after 
a few observations on the church and living, gives a detailed account 
of the valuation of each of the properties in the parish at that pe- 



900 EDINBUBGHSHiUE. 

riod. Chalmers, id his Caledonia, is more minute in his descrip- 
tion. He gives its history so far as known ; whereas the former 
seems conBned to*an account at the then present time. It is also 
alluded to in the taxatio of Mid-Lothian. 

We learn from Chalmers's Caledonia, that the church of He- 
riot was once of *^ considerable value." In the ancient taxatio it 
is rated at 80 merks, or mercas, a sum equal to that of many now 
considered much superior. 

The patronage of the church, during the twelfth and part of 
the thirteenth century, belonged to Roger de Quincy, then Lord of 
the Manor, and Constable of Scotland, who, it is supposed, had de- 
rived it, in all probability, from the Lords of Galloway, who them- 
selves may have received it from the Morvilles. In the division 
of De Quincy's estates among his three daughters, Heriot fell to 
Elena, the youngest, who married La Touche, an English Baron« 
Elena afterwards granted the Monks of Newbotle — now called 
erroneously Newbattle — the Church of Heryeth, as it was then cal- 
led. This grant was confirmed by a Bull of Nicholas, and both 
were confirmed by Fraser, the Bishop of St Andrews, then dioce- 
san. By a chapter in 1309, William Blair, the vicar of Heryeth, 
resigned his vicarage to Lamberton, Bishop of St Andrews^ on 
which the diocesan immediately conferred the whole vicarage re- 
venues on the Monks of Newbotle, and issued a mandate to the 
Dean of Haddington, commanding him to put them in possession of 
them. These monks seem also to have afterwards acquired the lands 
of the church, but when or from whom is unknown. ^* It is, how- 
ever, certain," says Chalmers, '^ that both the chyrch and lands of 
Heryeth belonged to the monks of Newbotle at the Reforma- 
tion," which is confirmed by Borthwick and Scott's Account of 
the parish, drawn out in the time of Charles L, in the year 1627» 
wherein it is said, " that the kirk belongs to the Abbotcy of 
Newbattle," and that the benefice ^^ consists of a parsonage and 
vicarage." It adds, " that it is a several kirk and benefice of it- 
self, and consisted of laick patronage before the Reformation ;" 
and that there *^ are no prebendaries, chaplanries, frierlands, 
but ane rowme called Kirkland Hill, haldin of the house of New- 
battle." Kirkland Hill is now the name of a farm-steading, be- 
longing to the Crookston estate, prettily situated on the side of the 
water, and about three-quarters of a mile distant from the church. 
The lands and patronage after the Reformation came into tho 

3 



HERIOT. 201 

possession of Mnrk Kerr, supposed Commendator of Newbattle, 
to whose heir thev descended. 

In 1609, Robert, the second Earl of Lothiail, was served heir 
to his father, Mark, in the lands of Heriot and Heriot-moor, which 
were afterwards sold to W«alter Hay, to whose son they descended 
in 164a 

On the failure of this family, at the death of the late Lord 
Borthwick, in 1692, the barony of Heriot was acquired by a son 
of Lord Stair, then one of the Clerks of Session, upon which 
he was styled Dalrymple of Borthwick, from whom it descended^ 
through the late Dowager Lady Dalrymple, to her eldest son, Sir 
John H. Dalrymple of Cousland and Fala, Bart., Oxenford Castle, 
present proprietor. 

It is supposed by some that Douglas, author of the celebrated 
translation of Virgil's iEneid, who once held the provostship of St 
Giles in Edinburgh, and afterwards became Bishop of Dunkeld, 
was rector at Heriot. Upon investigation, however, we find this 
to be incorrect ; for on examining the manuscript copy of his life 
prefixed to his work, it is not Heriot, but Hawick that is mentioned. 

Land-Owners. — The land-owners are 7 in all, viz. Sir John 
Dalrymple, Bart, principal heritor and patron ; the Earl of Rose- 
berry ; J. Borthwick, Esq. of Crookston ; Thomas Adinston, Esq. 
of Carcant ; S. Eraser, Esq. of Garvald ; Thomas Cranston, Esq. 
of Dewar; William Bail lie, Esq. of Falahill. 

Parochial Reffiaters.-^The ancient parochial registers are very 
imperfect, and have been very irregularly kept. There are only 
three, the fourth being lost. The earliest bears date 1685. 
They record only baptisms and deaths, and the latter imperfectly. 

Antiquities. — On the tops of some of the hills are to be found the 
remains of ancient camps. One or two are quite distinct, and con- 
sist of three or more concentric circles with the marks of gateways. 
But whether encampments of the Romans, Britons, Danes, Picts, 
or Scots, we have no means of determining. On the south-east 
boundary of the farm of Dewar, and road side leading to Inver- 
leithen, and quite in the march between the parishes, are to be 
seen the head and footstones of a grave. It is said to be' that of 
the piper of Peebles, who, undertaking for a wager to play from 
Peebles to Lauder, became exhausted and fell down, and was bu- 
ried where he died. On Dewar Hill, not far from the piper's 
grave, there is a large stone called Lot's Wife, the cause of which 
title is unknown. At a little distance from it again, is a place cal- 



202 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

led the Wolf's Cieugh, concerning which a traditionary story is told* 
It is said that this cleugh was inhabited by a ravenous wolf, which 
phmdered and annoyed the neighbouring country, attacking and 
destroying many who attempted to pass that way. At last a re- 
ward of the lands was offered to him who should slay this de- 
structive creature. One appeared who succeeded in slaying it, 
and, obtaining the lands, called them Dewar, after his own name. 
Near Heriot House, there is also a stone called Mary Gibb's, from 
an unfortunate woman who is said to have been burnt upon it for 
witchcrafit. 

There is on Heriot-town hill-head a circle of high stones, 70 or 
80 feet diameter ; and on Borthwick Hall hill-head, three large 
rings or ditches, about 50 paces diameter. Chalmers says that 
these contain the only Druidical remains in Scotland, save those 
in Kirknewton parish. 

ni. — Population. 
From Borthwick and Scott's account of the parish in 1627, it 

would appear that there was nearly double the number of inhabi- 
tants then that there is now. It is there mentioned that the 
number of communicants was eleven score, which, supposing that 
number the third part of the population, would make it amount 
to 660, which is more than double that of the present amount. 

Population in 1801, - 820 

1811, . SOO 

1821, - 298 

1831, - 827 

The average number of persons under 15 years of age, is 95 

betwixt 15 and 80, 76 

80 and 50, 45 

50 and 70, 12 

upwards of 70, 8 

Independent families, . > . 1 

Proprietors of land, . . .7 

Unmarried men upwards of 50, . . 8 

Unmarried women upwards of 45, . .7 

Number of iamilies, . .50 

Average number of children in each family, . * 4 

Number of families chiefly employed in agriculture, 21 

trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 7 

Number of illegitimate births during the last three years, 8. 

The people are in general intelligent, sober, and industrious. 
Smuggling, which was once very common in the parish, has ceased 
to be carried on ; but it is to be lamented that poaching in game, 
especially in salmon, prevails to a great degree. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — The total number of acres English is 15,000, 

Scotch 12,000 ; 9633 of which are uncultivated and remain con- 
stantly in pasture ; 1286 might be profitably cultivated. 



HE RIOT. 203 

Rent qfljandy ^'^.--T-The average rent of land is about L. 1, 5s. 
per acre. The extent of the farms varies from 50 to 2000 acres. 

The general term of leases is for nineteen years. 

The farm- steadings throughout are disgraceful. The enclo* 
sures are few, and shamefully executed. The hills, though well 
adapted for planting, are without a tree ; the want of which im- 
pedes immensely agricultural improvement Were planting adopt- 
ed to any extent in so favourable a field, it would not only improve 
the climate, but incalculably benefit the farmer, and enhance the 
value of the land. 

Produce.-^ Amount of raw produce raised in the parish : — 

Value of all kinds of grain, as nearly as possibly can be found, L. 4265 
ofpotatoes, L.104 

of turnips, . 473 

ofhay, . . . 615 ' 

of meadow do. . . 187 

1879 



Total yearly value of all kinds of grain and raw produce wfaatever, L. 5644 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market'Tmon* — The nearest markets town is Dalkeith, twelve 

miles from the centre of the parish, and nine to the nearest boundary. 

There is no village in the parish. The post-ofiice is at Fushie 
Bridge, distant seven miles. The length of the turnpike in the 
parish is nearly three miles.* 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is conveniently situated 
in nearly the very centre of the parish. It was rebuilt in 1804, 
since which time it has undergone considerable repair, and were it 
lathed and made free from damp, might be considered a neat, cleanly 
place of worship. It is small, and may afibrd accommodation for 
about 200. The sittings are all divided among the tenantry. 
There are no free sittings, except the communion table seats, which 
are comfortably fitted up. The walb of the former church were 
much more substantial than those of the present, and would, with 
little repair, have been in every respect better. The date of its 
erection cannot be discovered, but in all probability it was as old, 
or older than the ancient bell, which bore date 1518, with the fol- 
lowing inscription :*-^^ Maria Vocor, Ao. Dni. Mcccccxviii. 
Jhonn Dawies.'^ The manse was rebuilt in 1799, and in 1829 
was extensively repaired, and may now be considered remarkably 
comfortable. There is an excellent garden, of deep and rich soil, 
and with the very best exposure. The glebe, adjoining the manse, 
consisting of 16 Scotch, or 20 English acres or thereby, is of the 

* About four miles of the new turnpike to Inverleithen, which intersects the north 
and north-west district of the parish) may now be added. 1839. 



204 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

finest land. It is rented at L, 27. The stipend is, as enlarged by 
the King's bounty, L. 150, and L. 8 for communion elements. 

The number of people attending church about 160; attending 
meeting, I should think about 40 in alL 

Divine service in the Established Church is remarkably well at- 
tended. Number of communicants about 100. 

The probable amountof church-door collections may be annually 
about L. 8, 10s. ; for religious purposes about L. 6.* 

Education. — One parochial school in the parish; salary maxi- 
mum ; school fees about L. 25 per annum. 

All can read and v^rite ; and the people are deeply alive to the 
Importance of education. 

There is a parochial library, which is little prized. 

Poor. — Number on poor's roll, 3 ; two of whom have 12s. per 
month, and one 6s. per month, raised by assessment. The assess- 
ment amounts, on an average, to L. 22, 10s. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
Since the preceding Account was drawn up a considerable im- 
provement in the Parochial Economy has taken place. The re- 
proach of disgraceful farm steadings and shamefully executed en- 
closures has been in a great measure, though not altogether, wiped 
away by the erection of plain -but commodious houses on several 
of the farms, and the building of substantial dry stone dikes pret- 
ty generally throughout the parish, especially during the last two 
or three, years. The parish church, too, has been greatly im- 
proved by the raising of its walls, formerly too low, and by the 
addition of a small gallery, containing nearly thirty sittings, erect- 
ed at the joint expense of two of ^ the heritors, Thomas Adinston, 
Esq., and John Borthwick, Esq. In noticing church accommoda- 
tion, it may be proper to mention that a great proportion of the 
inhabitants of the upper district of Stow parish, to the north of 
the Armilt or Crookston water, in consequence of the distance 
from their own parish church, find it more convenient to attend at 
Heriot Some steps have been taken to disjoin that district en- 
tirely from Stow, and annex it quoad sacra to Heriot, and it is 
hoped that an arrangement so reasonable and desirable will soon 
be completed. 

* The sum of L.12, 48. was collected in Heriot church last year (18S8,) for the 
General A8semb]y*B Schemes. 

October 1839. 



PARISH OF CORSTORPHINE.* 

PHESBTTBRT OF EDINBURGH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEED DALE. 

THE REV. DAVID HORNE, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — Corstorphine was anciently written Crostorfin or 

Crostorfyn^ as in the foundation charter of Holyrood House in 
1 128, and in Ragman's Roll of 1296. Several derivations have 
been proposed. Chalmers in his Caledonia frequently refers to it 
as a Celtic word, but in his description of the parish, he inter- 
prets it as the Cross of Torphin, acknowledging at the same time 
that he cannot trace any connection between Torphin, who was 
grandson of Malcolm II., and died in 1014, and this part of the 
country. It may, however, be noticed, in corroboration of this de- 
rivation, that Torphin is the name of a large tract of country in 
the district of West Calder. Another derivation is from the Nor- 
man or French words, " Crois d'orejirij'* or cross of fine gold, and 
this we think the more probable of the two, from the circumstance 
that the earliest proprietors of Crostorfin were Normaps, who, in 
that age, were devoted friends of the church, and fond of the em- 
blem of the cross. Tradition likewise supports this derivation, and 
connects with it the existence of a golden cross in the chapel of 
the estate in early times. 

Extent and Boundaries, — The present parish of Corstorphine 
includes within its bounds part of the ancient parish of Gogar, the 
remainder of which was annexed to the adjoining parishes of Kirk- 
liston and Ratho. It also includes the lands of Ravelston and 
Saughton, which were detached from St Cuthberts by the Teind 
Commission of 1627, and united to Corstorphine in 1633, by an 
act of the Scotch Parliament. The parish is about 4 miles in 
length, and its greatest breadth is about 2:^ miles. It is bounded 
on the north, by Cramond and Kirkliston ; on the east, by St Cuth- 

* Drawn up by Thomas Thomson, Esq. W. S. 



206 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

berts ; on the south, by Colinton, Currie, and Ratho ; and on the 
west, by Ratho and Kirkliston. 

Topographical Appearances. — The greater part of the parish 
consists of a tract of low-lying meadow land, which extends from 
near Coltbridge to Redheughs. The village is situated in the 
centre of this tract, and is slightly elevated above the level of the 
meadows on Doth sides. Towards the north-east, lies Corstor- 
phine hill, an eminence covered with wood, which rises 474 feet 
above the level of the sea, and commands most delightful prospects 
in every direction. To the west of Corstorphine hill, is a ridge of 
rocky ground called East and West Craigs, which overlooks the 
western meadow. The ground in the western division of the pa- 
rish is more diversified and undulated, rising on both sides of the 
Gogar-burn, and gently sloping towards the water. 

Hydrography. — The only streams in the parish are the rivulets 
of Leith and Gogar ; the former running through the south- 
eastern division of the parish, and the latter through the lands of 
Gogar, and falling into the river Almond, in the adjoining parish 
of Kirkliston. In former times, there were two lochs in the mea- 
dows, which are represented in Blaew's Atlas, in the Map of Lo- 
thian, which was prepared about 1640, as situated, one on each 
side of Corstorphine Castle, and as supplying with water a ditch 
which surrounded the grounds belonging to the Castle. 

There is a mineral spring near the village of Corstorphine, which 
is very similar in taste to the water of St Bernard's Well, Edin- 
burgh. Dr Monro, in his book on Mineral Waters, Vol. i. page 
209, says, that ^^ it is a weak, sulphureous water, from which Dr 
Short got by evaporation eleven grains of sediment from a gallon, 
four grains of which were clay, and seven grains, a saline matter 
composed of sea salt and a calcareous glauber. This water has 
been used for the cure of scrofulous complaints." For many years 
previous to the end of the last century, and at the commencement 
of the present, this well was in great repute, and for the sake of it 
Corstorphine was much resorted to as a watering-place,* so much 
so, that in the month of May 1749,f a stage-chaise wa$ set up, 
which travelled between Corstorphine and Edinburgh eight or nine 
times every week-day, and four times on Sunday. It is said that 
one of the ladies of the family of Dick of Prestoufield and Corstor- 

* Webster's Topographical Dictionary, word Corstorphine. 
t Scots Magazine, Vol. xi. p. 259. 

4 



CORSTOIIPHINE. 207 

phine experienced so much benefit from using the water, that she 
took up her residence in the village, and erected a building over 
the well, placing a pump on it so as to make it more convenient 
and accessible to the inhabitants. This erection was allowed to 
fall into disrepair, when the well lost its popularity, and the last 
vestige of it was removed about fourteen years ago, and a deep ditch 
was made on the north side of it, which completely destroyed the 
spring. As this well was so much connected with the prosperity 
of the village in former times, many of the old inhabitants are 
anxious to have it restored, and there is now some prospect of its 
being again fitted up for use as a public well, with the concurrence 
of the adjoining proprietors. The lease of the farm on which it was 
situated, still contains an exception of a space of ground round the 
mineral well, and a footpath to it, from the village, of at least 
four feet wide. 

Climate. — The village has always been considered as very 
healthy, although, from want of proper drainage, the soil is very wet 
and the atmosphere damp. The cause of its salubrity has been 
said to be its exposure to a rapid and complete circulation of air. 
When the cholera was prevalent in this country there were no 
cases in the village of Corstorphine, and only a few of a fatal 
character at the outskirts of the parish. 

Botany. — From its vicinity to Edinburgh, the natural history of 
this parish has been so fiilly investigated that it is unnecessary to 
enter upon it here. We shall merely notice one or two of the 
rarer plants that have been found in it. PheUandrium aquaticum 
grows in the ditches of the meadows ; and Pyrola rotundifolia^ 
AnthyUis vtdneraria^ Tanacetum vulgare^ Libera ovata^ and Ery^ 
threa centaurea are found at Gogar, and Parietaria officinalis on 
the ruins of Corstorphine Castle. Among the trees which for- 
mer^ decorated the park of the Castle there is a very fine syca- 
more tree, near the old pigeon-house, which has a most beautiful 
golden colour in the sunshine, when the leaves first come out in 
spring. 

Quarries. — There were at one time extensive freestone quarries 
in Corstorphine Hill, upon the lands of Ravelston, from 'which 
the stone was taken for the Parliament House, Heriot's Hospital, 
and other public buildings erected in Edinburgh, between the years 
1682 and 1650. These quarries have not been in operation for 
the last twenty years, but one of them has been lately cleared of 
water, and the proprietor has advertised for a tenant to work it. 



208 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

There are also two trap or blue wfainstoiie quarries in the parish, one 
at West Craigs, which is used occasionally for building farm-stead* 
ings, but principally for road metal, and the other at Clermiston. 

11. — Civil History. 
Historical Events. — During the residence of the family of For- 
rester of Corstorphine this parish was not unfrequently the scene 
of war and devastation. In 1446, the lands of Corstorphine were 
overrun by the Chancellor Crichton and his military vassals, and 
the house levelled with the ground, in retaliation for a similar out- 
rage committed by Sir John Forrester and William, Earl of Doug- 
las, on the estate and castle of Brankstoun, which then belonged 
to the Chancellor. In 1572, the house and college of Corstor- 
phine were garrisoned by the Earl of Mar, then Regent of the 
kingdom, along with all the other strengths round Edinburgh, to 
prevent supplies from reaching the castle, which was then in pos- 
session of William Kirkcaldy of Grange. In 1650, there was a 
more serious and long-continued occupation of the parish, first by 
General Leslie and his army, and afterwards by Oliver Cromwell 
and his soldiers. Leslie's army was posted in the meadow on the 
east of Corstorphine, when Cromwell, who was encamped on the 
Pentland Hills, marched northwards with the object of interpos- 
ing his. army between Leslie and Linlithgow, and thus forcing an 
engagement. Leslie, however, so manoeuvred as to defeat this ob- 
ject, for he marched westward about two miles, and then entrench- 
ed himself in an impregnable position on Gogar-field, from whence 
Cromwell attempted to dislodge him, but the ground was so boggy 
between the armies that he was obliged to desist, and to content 
himself with a brisk fire of artillery, which was returned with spirit 
by Leslie, who brought into play, for the first time, upon that oc* 
casion, several kinds of field-pieces invented by Colonel Wemyss, 
his General of Artillery.* The field on which this fight took j)lace 
(on which the villas of Gogar -burn and Hanley now stand) is still 
known among the old inhabitants by the name of " The Flashes ;" 
a name which it is said to have received from fire-arms being used in 
the fight of greater power and variety than was usual at that time. 
This skirmish continued from the afternoon till late in the evening of 
Tuesday the 27th August 1650, and operated as such a check on 
Cromwell's designs, that he immediately retreated to his camp at 
Musselburgh, and afterwards towards England : Leslie following 
in his rear and harassing his march, till he reached Dunbar, where, 
owing to the impetuosity and want of discipline of the Scottish 

* Thomson's Acts, Vol. Tii. page 46, and page 17 of Appendix. 



I 



CORSTORPHINE. 201) 

army, Cromwell at last succeeded in bringing on the unfortunate 
battle of Dunbar, which enabled him to retrace his steps, and re- 
turn to Edinburgh as a victor. * 

Shortly after this victory, part of the English army occupied Cor- 
storphine and its vicinity, where they continued till the month of 
August in the following year. During this period, both the clergy- 
men and the principal landed proprietors absented themselves from 
the parish, and Lord Forrester was actively engaged in attempt- 
ing to raise the country against the English. In retaliation for 
this hostility, the English soldiers defaced the stone figures of the 
Forresters in the chancel, damaged the whole interior of the 
church, pulled down the place of public repentance, and laid waste 
the estate of Corstorphine. f 

Estates and Proprietors, — The two principal properties in this 
parish, in former times, were the estates of Corstorphine and Go- 
gar, which, for a long series of years, were occupied by influential 
families. The first noticed proprietors of Corstorphine are, Da- 
vid le Mareschall, in the reign of Alexander II., and Tliomas le 
Mareschall and William de la Roche, whose names occur in Rag- 
man's Roll of 1296. The family of the two former continued in 
possession of that estate till the reign of David II., when it was 
forfeited by David le Mareschall, and given by the King to Mal- 
colm Ramsay. It was next held by William More of Abercorne, 
who disponed it to his brother, Gilchrist More, by whom it was 
sold, in August 1376, to Adam Forrester, Burgess of Edinburgh, 
in whose family it remained down to the year 1698. This family 
is so interwoven with the history of the parish, and conferred on 
it so many benefits, that we cannot pass them over without some 
farther detail. The founder, Adam Forrester, was a successful 
merchant in Edinburgh, and probably acquired the greater part of 
his fortune in the reign of David II. by trading with England. In 
the Rotuli Scotiae, we find a license granted to him to bring grain 
into Scotland without payment of duty. In the same reign, he 
acquired the lands of Whitburn and NiddrefT, and in the follow- 
ing several additional estates. In 1873} he was Provost of Edin- 
burgh, and in 1382, Sheriff of Lothian.^ He was frequently em- 
ployed in embassies to England, and seems to have been held in 
much esteem by King Robert III., who made him Keeper of the 
Great Seal in ld90.§ In 1402, he was present at the Battle of 

* See Memoirs of Captain Slingsby, 8ic, f Parish Register and Nieoir$ Diary. 

* See Hotuli Scotie, Vol. ii. § Keg. Mag. Sigil. p. 184. 

EDINBURGH. O 






210 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Homildon Hill, and having been taken prisoner, was, along 
with several of the most illustrious prisoners, presented to King 
Henry IV. in full Parliament, where he acted as spokesman for 
the others.* During the last year of his life, he was Depute- 
Chamberlain of the southern division of the kingdom, under the 
Earl of Buchan.f His 6rst wife was Agnes, daughter of John 
Dundas of Fingask ; and he was afterwards married to a lady whose 
Christian name was Margaret, who survived him about twenty years. 
He died in 1404, and was buried in the chapel of St John the 
Baptist at Corstorphine. The stone which originally covered his 
remains is built into the west wall of the session-house, and has 
on it an inscription, now almost defaced, commencing ^* Hie jacet 
Adam Forstar." 

Sir John Forrester, his eldest son, was brought up at Courts 
and succeeded his father in the situation of Depute- Chamberlain 
of the southern division of the kingdom.^: He obtained a charter 
to the estate of Corstorphine from William More of Abercome, 
then the superior, on 22d March 1392, which was probably on the 
occasion of his marriage. After 1408, he acted as Depute- Cham- 
berlain of the whole kingdom, under the Earl of Buchan, who 
seems to have devolved upon him all the duties of the office of 
High Chamberlain. In this situation he continued down to the 
year 1425, but in that interval he held also several other appoint- 
ments. In 1416, he was named one of the Commissioners to treat 
with England for the King's liberty, and in 1421, he was made 
Lord Privy Seal. His crown charter to the estates of Corstor- 
phine, Drylaw, Nether Liberton, Meadowfield, and Clerkington, 
erecting them into the Barony of Corstorphine, is dated 10th July 
1424; and in the same year he was one of the hostages given for 
the King's ransom. As a remuneration for his numerous services, 
on the King's return to Scotland, a new office was created for him 
under the name of Magister Hospitiiy Master of the Horse, and in 
the following year he was made Lord High Chamberlain. It was 
at this period of his life, that he founded and endowed the Colle- 
giate Church of Corstorphine. 

Sir John Forrester was three times married. The surname of 
his first wife, Margaret, is unknown, but the second was Lady Jean 
St Clair, daughter of the first Earl of Orkney, and his third was 
Marian Stewart, daughter of Sir Walter ' Stewart of Garlies, and 

• Parliamentary History, Vol. ii. p. 71. 

'I' See Chamberlain^s Account, Vol. ii. \ Ibid. Vol. ii. aod iii. 



CORSTORPHINE. 211 

relict of Sir John Stewart of Jed worth. He died in 1440, and 
was buried in the chancel of the collegiate church. 

Sir John Forrester, his eldest son, seems to have been better 
fitted for the field of battle than for the cabinet, and does not ap- 
pear to have held any civil appointment. He took part with the 
Earls of Douglas in their struggles with the Chancellor Crich- 
ton and Livingston, and led the troops which besieged and demo- 
lished Brankston Castle in J 446. His sasine in the estate of Cor- 
storphine is dated ]5th September 1436; he was also buried in 
the chancel of the collegiate church, and the stone figure above 
his grave represents a man of Herculean mould. 

Sir Alexander Forrester, the next proprietor of Corstorphine, 
appears to have been strongly actuated by the superstition of the 
age in which he lived, for he led two separate pilgrimages to the 
shrines of Thomas a Becket at Canterbury, and John de Amyace 
in Picardie, — the former in 1464, and the latter in 1466. On 
both occasions, he was accompanied by Sir John Lauder of Hal- 
ton and several other of the neighbouring proprietors, and they 
took with them thirty followers.* 

Archibald Forrester, his son, was infeft in Corstorphine on 20th 
February 1467, and is mentioned as present in Parliament on 7th 
January 1504-5; his son, 

Alexander Forrester, obtained a charter under the Great Seal 
to the Barony of Corstorphine on 13th September 153db 

James Forrester got Meadowfield from his father on Idth Ja- 
nuary 1538, and afterwards succeeded to the rest of the Barony 
of Corstorphine. 

Sir James Forrester was very young when his father died, and 
was served heir to him in February 1547. Besides the Barony of 
Corstorphine, he had the lands of Nether Bern ton, Thirleston, and 
Lowriston; he died in 1589 without leaving any issue, and was 
succeeded by his only brother, 

Henry Forrester, who took possession of Corstorphine on 8th 
November 1589. On 23d June 1607, he resigned the Barony of 
Corstorphine in favour of his son, 

George Forrester, who obtained a Crown charter in his own 
favour on 15th November 1607. He was made a Baronet in 
1625, and a Peer on 11th July 1633, under the title of Lord 
Forrester of Corstorphine. He was an elder of the parish for 
many years, and attended most faithfully to the duties of the oU 

* Rotuli Scotiic, Vol. ii. 



212 P^DINBURGHSHIUE. 

fice. He died on 2dd April 1651, leaving five daughters. He 
entailed his estates of Corstorphine, &c. on James Baillie, young- 
er of Torwoodhead, who married Joanna, his fourth daughter, 
and their heirs, whom failing, on William Baillie of the same fa- 
mily, who married Lillias, his fifth daughter, and their heirs, and 
the patent of his peerage was granted to the same series of heirs. 
In virtue of these destinations, James Baillie became Lord For- 
rester of Corstorphine, He was an ardent royalist, and was ac- 
tively engaged with his party during the time of the Common- 
wealth. Nicol, in his Diary, mentions that, on one occasion, while 
Cromwell's soldiers [were in Edinburgh, Lord Forrester issued a 
proclamation, which was affixed to the most considerable close 
heidis, and upon all the public places in Edinburgh, calling on all 
persons residing in Mid- Lothian to put forth horse according to 
their rents for the King's army. He was fined by Cromwell 
L. 2500 Sterling, and his estate was overrun and destroyed by the 
English troops. In consequence of these proceedings his affairs 
became involved, and, being unable to pay the provisions Jeft to 
his mother and sisters, and the debts of the first Lord, the rents 
of his estate of Corstorphine were attached by numerous creditors. 
He became very dissipated and abandoned in his character, — fre- 
quently spending days drinking in an alehouse in the village of 
Corstorphine. On one of these occasions, he was sent for by 
Christian Hamilton, daughter of James Hamilton of Grange, and 
wife of an Edinburgh merchant, named Andrew Nimmo, with 
whom he had carried on an intrigue, and who had come out to vi- 
sit him at Corstorphine Castle. He was unwilling to obey the 
summons, and she being a person of a violent and ungovernable 
temper, was in her way to the alehouse to enforce his attention, 
when they met near the Pigeon House, to the east of the castle, and 
aquarrel ensued, when she murdered him with.his own sword. This 
happened on 26th August 1679.* There being no issue alive of 
his marriage with Joanna Forrester, his brother, 

* See a full account of this tragical event in a note at the foot of page 182 of Kirk. 
ton*s History of the Church of Scotland, edited by C. K. Sharpe. In this note» it 
is said that Lord Forrester was a Presbyterian zealot, and had erected a meeting, 
house near Edinburgh, after the indulgence granted in 1679. This is obviously a 
mistake, for James Lord Forrester is represented in the parish register as an Episco- 
palian, who, at one time, set at defiance the orders of the presbytery, and, at another, 
urged the clergyman of the parish to obtain lists of the con-conformists, with the view 
of enforcing the laws against them. The story of his erecting a meeting-house must 
have arisen from what is stated by Lord Fountainhall regarding William Lord For- 
rester, who, having quarrelled with Mr Henry, the minister of the parish, prevented 
his tenants from attending the church, and advised them to go to the meeting- houses, 
but not because he approved of the non 'Conformists ; ^* for," says Lord Fountainhall, 
" the discord^was Mr Henry lent him jnoncy, whereof he was seeking payment.*' 



COUSTOHPHINE. 213 

« 

William Baillie^ succeeded to his estates and titles. He died 
in 16849 and was succeeded by his son, William, the fourth 
Lord Forrester; but Corstorphine was so burdened that they 
probably never drew any part of the rents, although the family 
continued to reside in the castle till about 1698. On 19th 
December 1679, Hugh Wallace, of Ingliston, W. S. who had 
accumulated in his person the whole debts burdening the es* 
tate, obtained a charter, under the Great Seal, of the Barony of 
Corstorphine, and his title was ratified by Lord Forrester in No- 
vember 169a On 26th July 1701, he sold the estate to Sir Ro- 
bert Dickson of Sornebeg, whose title was also ratified by William 
Lord Forrester and the Master of Forrester on 2d January 1703. 
Sir Robert Dickson of Inveresk succeeded to his father in May 
1712, and in the beginning of 1713, sold the estate to Sir James 
Dick of Prestonfield, in whose family it still remains. As this fa- 
mily had another mansion-house at Prestonfield, where they lived, 
there was no resident proprietor of Corstorphine after 1713; and 
in 1720, we find Sir Francis Grant, one of the Senators of the 
College of Justice, had taken a lease of the castle for a series of 
years, and resided there during the vacations of the Court 

The estate of Gogar was given by King Robert Bruce to his com- 
panion in arms, Alexander Seton, but how long he or his successors 
retained it does not appear. In 1409, Walter de Haliburton of Dir- 
leton disponed the lands and miln of Gogar to his brother, George 
de Haliburton, and his title was confirmed by a charter of Robert 
Duke of Albany on 11th May 1411. In 1516, the lands of Go- 
gar were held by Robert Logan of Restalrig, and they are since 
described as part of the barony of Restalrig. The Logans continued 
proprietors of part of the lands until the beginning of the seventeenth 
century, when Robert Logan of Restalrig, who was implicated in the 
Gowry conspiracy, sold them to Adam Cowper, one of the clerks 
of Session, whose title to them was ratified by Parliament on 17th 
February 1601. Sixteen oxgaugs of the lands of Gogar belonged 
formerly to a famjly of the name of Balfour, and were by them sold 
in 1555 to a wealthy churchman, Robert Richardson, vicar of Eck- 
ford in Roxburghshire, and afterwards Lord High Treasurer of 
Scotland, and Master of the Mint; at his death, in 1571, his son, 
Sir James Richardson of Smeaton, succeeded to his part of Go- 
gar, and it was afterwards sold by his son, James Richardson, 
to Adam Cowper, on 19th June 1604, who by this purchase ac- 
quired the whole barony of Gogar. The next proprietor was 



214 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

his SOD, John Cowper, who built the existing mansion-house of the 
estate in 1625 and 1626, as appears from the initials of himself 
and his wife, J. C. and H. S., which are carved above these dates 
on the front of the house. John Cowper was killed in the blow- 
ing up of Dunglas Castle, on 30th August 1640. His son, John 
Cowper, erected a monument to his memory in the Old Church- 
yard of Edinburgh, on which there was the following inscription, viz. 
" Joanni Cupero Gogarae Comarcho, patri suo charissimo ejusdem 
nominis filius moerens merenti poni curavit vixit annos 46. Obiit 
cum moltis aliis viris generosis de ecclesia nostra optime mentis^ 
apud Dunglas." John Cowper was created a Baronet of Nova 
Scotia in 1646. He was for many years an elder of the parish, 
and took a deep interest in every thing connected with the church. 
He joined James Lord Forrester in his opposition to Cromwell, 
and in consequence his rents were sequestrated. Sir John Cow- 
per executed an entail of the lands of Gogar, in favour of his 
daughter Mary, and her husband Thomas Chalmers, in 1685, 
but it was reduced at the instance of his creditors by the 
Court of Session in 1697. The estate was sold at a judicial 
sale in 1699, to Andrew Myreton, a wealthy merchant, who had 
previously acquired the adjoining lands of Leny, in Cramond pa- 
rish, and afterwards purchased East and West Craigs, and Mea- 
dowfield, part of the barony of Corstorphine, and erected the 
whole into the barony of Gogar in 1701. In the same year he 
was created a Baronet of Nova Scotia; He died in 1717, and 
left the barony to his son, Sir Robert Myreton, by whom it was 
enclosed and considerably improved. Sir Robert Myreton died 
at Gogar in December 1774, and was buried within the old church 
there. His only surviving daughter, Frances, was married to Sir 
William Augustus Cunningham of Livingston, Bart and their son 
David Cunningham, after his grandfather's death, succeeded to 
the estate, and in 1790 sold it for L. 37,000 to William Ramsay, 
Esq. of Barnton, whose grandson is now proprietor.* 

In 1809, about 92 acres of the estate of Gogar were sold to three 
separate feuars at the rate of 200 guineas per acre, and these feus 
now constitute the three villas of Gogar Park, Gogar Burn, and 
Hanlev. 

The other properties in this parish are Clermiston, and the two 

* Previous to the sale of Gogar to Mr Ramsay, Sir Grey Cowper, Bart. M. P. 
the heir*xnale of the family of Coirper of Gogar, made an offer for it which was re- 
vsed. 



CORSTORPHINE. 215 

estates of Ravelston and Saughton, which were united to the pa* 
rish in 1633. Clermiston formed a part of the barony of Cor- 
storphine until 1771, when it was sold by Sir Alexander Dick to 
William Alexander, merchant in Edinburgh, who feued four acres 
of it to Walter Scott, W. S., father of the famed Sir Walter Scott, 
and sold the remainder to Samuel Mitchelson, one of the Princi- 
pal Clerks of Session, who built the House of Clermiston in 1792, 
at the expense of L. 3000. Mr Mitchelson afterwards acquired 
the acres feued to Mr Scott, and continued proprietor until his 
death. His trustees sold the estate to George Robinson, Esq. W. S. 
in 1795, forL. 11,000 Sterling, and it was again sold in 1836 to 
Francis Jeffrey, Esq. one of the Senators of the College of Jus- 
3tice, the present proprietor, for L. 15,250. 

The estate of Ravelston, when separated from St Cuthbert^s 
parish, belonged to a branch of the family of Foulis of Colinton, 
who took the name of Primrose in the beginning of the eighteenth 
century, on succeeding to the estate of Dunipace in Stirlingshire. 
In 1726, Sir Archibald Primrose, a member of that family, sold 
this estate to Alexander Keith, writer in Edinburgh, who was de- 
scended from Alexander Keith of Pittendrum, the fourth son of 
William third Earl Mareschall. Ravelston is now possessed by 
Sir William Keith Murray of Ravelston and Ochtertyre, in right 
of his wife, Lady Keith Murray, daughter and heiress of the late 
Sir Alexander Keith. 

The estate of Saughton, when united to Corstorphine, was held 
by the family of Watson, who are still proprietors. They have 
not resided in the mansion-house of the estate since 1737, when 
they purchased the house and estate of Cammo, in Cramond pa- 
rish, which they named New Saughton. 

Besides these properties, there are three villas on the south side 
of Corstorphine Hill, viz. Belmont, formerly called Brucehill, 
Beechwood and Corstorphine Hill. Belmont, consisting of 57 
acres, 3 roods, and 20 falls of ground, was originally feued by 
Charles Bruce, glazier in Edinburgh, from John Dickie of Corstor- 
phine Hill. It was purchased in 1793 at a judicial sale by Major 
General David Dundas for L. 3820. After being held by several 
intervening proprietors, it was sold in 1827 to Lord Mackenzie, 
the present proprietor, for L. 7500. His Lordship has since erect- 
ed on it an elegant mansion-house. Beechwood House was built by 
Francis Scott, Esq. second son of Walter Scott of Harden in 1780. 
In 1786, he sold the villa to Colonel Alexander Leslie, for L. 5073, 



216 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

whose son sold it in 1795 for L. 4750. In 1797, it was again sold 
to Major- General David Dundas of Belmont, for L. 5030, and it 
now belongs to his descendant, Sir David Dundas. Corstorphine 
Hill was originally feued by Mr John Dickie, and was by him sold 
to David Johnston, brewer in Corstorphine, for L. 1300. In 1791, 
Mr Johnston sold this feu for L. 3500 to William Keith, Esq. ac- 
countant in Edinburgh, son of Alexander Keith, Esq. of Ravel- 
ston, who built the House of Corstorphine Hill in 1793w 

Earochial Registers. — It appears from the Presbytery records 
that a register of discipline was regularly kept in the parish in 
1598, but it was lost before 1692, for the records are fully enu- 
merated in the parish register of that year. The first entry in 
the existing register of discipline is dated 4th Jauuary 1646. 
This record is regularly continued from that date to May 1689, 
with the exception of the period when the English army were in 
the parish, from 1st September 1650 to the beginning of 1652, 
and from 1658 to 1665, the time of the troubles for non-confor- 
mity. From May. 1689, there are no entries till 5th May 1692, 
after which date it is regularly kept until 1768, from which pe*- 
riod it contains few entries until 1794. The register of baptisms 
commences on 5th January 1634, and the register of marriages in 
June 1665. There is also a register of collections and distribu- 
tions, which commences in January 1646. The only account of 
this parish of which we are aware is a manuscript by Mr Wood, 
author of the History of the Parish of Cramond, containing 70 
folio pages, compiled towards the end of the last century, and 
consisting chiefly of genealogical notices of the principal families 
who have resided in the parish. It is in possession of the author's 
family.* 

Antiquities. — At the time of the erection of the House of Go- 
garburn in 1811, some Roman remains were discovered in dig- 
ging for the foundation, and in a gravel-pit opened in the park to 
the south of the house. These remains were a Roman dagger or 
sword, with parts of the scabbard belonging to it, a fibula or clasp, 
used by the Romans for fixing belts, &c and a gold ring, very thin 
and hollow. They are now deposited in the private museum of 
Mrs Thomson, Forth Street, Edinburgh, the relict of the first pro- 
prietor of Gogarburn. 

When Corstorphine Castle, the ancient residence of the For- 

* Mr Wood has also left MS. notices of the adjoining parislies of Kirkliston and 
Dalmcny. 

3 



CORSTORPHINE. 217 

resters, was levelled with the ground, about fifty years ago, some of 
the workmen engaged, when digging near the house, discovered a 
deposit of gold and silver coins. Oatman Barclay, their overseer, 
distributed some part of the treasure among them, and retained 
the rest for his own use. The quantity he obtained was of so 
much value that he immediately left his employment, and continu- 
ed to maintain himself on the proceeds of the discovery while he 
lived. This conduct led to suspicion, and he was imprisoned, with 
the view of compelling him to give up what he had found, but the 
attempt was unsuccessful, for no portion of the treasure was traced 
except a few foreign coins which he had sold to a jeweller in Edin** 
burgh. There is in the custody of the schoolmaster a curious old 
box, formed out of a piece of excavated^ oak-wood, having a lid in 
which there is a slit for the admission of money, which was fixed 
by large iron hinges. It has double locks and two key holes, but 
the padlock has been broken off, and the hinges are also destroyed. 
This box formerly had a broad belt attached to it, by which it was 
slung to the breast of the begging rnonk^ and the object of the two 
keys evidently was to secure its contents for the use of the colle- 
giate establishment with which he was connected. In the church- 
yard of Gogar there is a large circular basin of freestone, used as 
the depository of the holy water in times of Popery. 

Stone Coffins.'^From the year 1809 down to 1835, many stone 
coffins have been at various times found on the lands of Gogar, 
particularly towards the western side of the field formerly called 
" The Flashes," on which the villa of Hanley is now built.* As 
no accurate account can now be given of those discovered prior to 
1834, we shall confine our description to those found at that pe* 
riod and in 1835. 

In the autumn of 1834, when the House of Hanley was in the 
course of being built, an excavation was made on the highest part 
of the rising ground, about 100 yards to the north-east of the house, 
out of which sand was taken for the use of the building. This ex- 
cavation when completed was 60 feet in length and 35 feet in 
breadth. In this space, there was laid open and removed about 
two dozen stone coffins, of a very simple construction. They all 
lay east and west, at a depth of only 13 inches from the surface, 
and were constructed of from five to eight water-worn flag stones, 
similar to those which form the bed of the river Almond, near 

* In consequence of these remains^ this villa, when originally feucd, was named 
Gogar Camp. 



218 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Newbridge. Their shape was as nearly that of a modern wooden 
coffin as the inflexible nature of the materials would admit. Both 
ends of the coffin were of single stones, and the sides were some* 
times also of single stones, in which case, the one end of the coffin 
was broader than the other ; but more frequently the sides were 
formed of four separate stones, and then the coffin bulged out in the 
middle. The bodies seem generally to have been laid on the bare 
gravel or on a thin plate of clay-slate, and the tops or covers were 
all of this substance, except one or two, where both the bottom 
and cover were formed of flag-stones. 

From the nature of the soil, which is a loose gravel, and from 
the slightness of the covers, few of the coffins were in a perfect 
state when laid open. The gravel had found its way through the 
crevices, or the lid had been broken by the plough from its proxi- 
mity to the surface, and the bones were mixed with gravel. In 
some, however, the entire skeletons remained in a state of good 
preservation. The length of the coffins was from 5 to 6 feet, and 
the breadth from 1 foot to 9 inches. 

A little to the east of the first excavation, in digging pits to 
plant evergreens, several additional coffins of the same construction 
were exposed, the distance between each being about 6 feet Ano- 
ther space of about 120 feet by 60, was excavated in the park, 
about fifty yards to the north of the first excavation, and in it many 
similar remains were discovered. Some of the workmen said that 
here fourteen coffins were laid open in one day, and reckoned the 
whole number taken out of this space at about four dozen, but 
others stated it at about two dozen. All agreed that, besides the 
coffins in this space, there was found a great number of bones 
huddled together, as if buried in a pit without any coffin. One 
coffin was said to have contained two skeletons, or at least more 
than two thigh bones, and was of a much larger construction than 
the rest; while another was only 2^ feet in length. In some 
places the coffins were close together ; indeed, a workman described 
three as so close, that the side stones of the middle one formed 
part of the two others. From this it would appear that three 
bodies at least were buried at the same time. 

Towards the end of October 1835, another excavation was made 
at Hanley, behind the garden, about 100 yards to the west of the 
first excavation. The space here laid open was 50 feet in lengthy 
and in it six coffins were found, four lying together at- one corner. 

The whole space over which these coffins are found may extend 



CORSTORPHINE. 219 

to about 250 yards in length, and upwards of 50 yards in breadth. 
Single coffins are likewise found in other parts of the villa of Han- 
ley, and a few are said to have been found on the adjoining villa 
of Gogarburn. No relics of any kind were found either within or 
near any of the coffins. Remains of an exactly similar description 
were discovered in 1822, in the neighbouring parish of Cramond, 
which are described in Vol. iii. p. 40 of the Transactions of the 
Society of Scottish Antiquaries. 

At first sight the name of stone coffins would favour the suppo- 
sition that these remains are of great antiquity, but as neither the 
aborigines, nor any of the other races who have inhabited or visit- 
ed this part of the country in early times, used this manner of 
burying their dead, their origin must be looked for within the range 
of Scottish history. It has accordingly been supposed that this 
is merely the old parish burying-ground ; but the site of the village 
and kirk of Gogar, as existing at the Reformation, is at the distance 
of upwards of a quarter of a mile from this locality, the Gogar- 
burn running between, and there is no reason to believe that the 
position of the kirk had been altered. after the thirteenth century; 
it seems, therefore, not likely that this was a burying-ground attach- 
ed to it. On the other hand, however, there are no events noticed 
in history, or handed down by tradition, sufficient to account for so 
many burials. The only battle we can trace to have taken place 
in this neighbourhood is the Gogar fight, on 27th August 1650, 
which has been already briefly described, but it only lasted from 
3 to 6 o'clock p. M. of that day, and the deaths on both sides pro- 
bably did not amount to 100 men. From the descriptions of this 
fight, contained in Hodgson's Memoirs, and in the Letters of 
Cromwell and his officers, printed in the same volume, this field 
appears at that period to have been full of bogs, and in a very wild 
' and uncultivated state ; indeed, it was for this very reason that Ge- 
neral Leslie is said to have chosen it for his encampment. After 
this engagement it is not unlikely that the dead would be interred 
where they fell, and no more natural mode of interment could have 
been adopted than to collect the flag stones from the bed of the 
river Almond, a distance of 1| mile, and form them into coffins. 
This is rendered more probable when it is considered that no wood 
existed here at that period, and that when it was required, even in 
small quantities, it was always procured from Leith, as appears 
from several entries in the parish register about 1652. This hy- 
pothesis, perhaps, would not account for a cemetery so extensive, 



L.1789 





1391 





1145 





485 15 





69 





262 5 





105 17 


7 


82 2 


I 


77 





60 8 


11 


48 14 





48 





34 9 


6 


30 10 






220 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

bot when once used as a burying-ground, it may have been con* 
tinued in use as such during the years 1650 and 1651, while the 
English were in the parish ; or its use may have commenced at the 
earlier period of the trouble or plague of 1645, which is referred 
to in the parish register as having been so severe a scourge that 
the church was closed, and all work at a stand while it lasted; and 
it may have been added to after the fight and during the invasion. 
Land'oumers and valued Rent : — 

William Ramsay Watson of Saughlon, 
Sir Robert Keith Dick of Corstorphine, 
William Ramsay Ramsay of Gogar, 
Lady Keith Murray of Ravelston, 

Do. of Corstorphine Hill, 

Lord Jeffrey of Clermiston, 
John Piper of East Craigs, 

John Thomson of Gogarburn , . . . 

Sir David Dundas of Beech wood, 
James M. Melville of Hanley, 
Dr David Johnston, 
Lord Mackenzie of Belmont, 
Claud Muirhead of Gogarpark, 
James Dunsmure, Esq., • . 

L.5579 2 1 
And ten other minor heritors. 

III. — Population. 
The following is the population of the parish at various periods, 

viz. 

In 1755, . 995 

1791, . 1037 
ISbl, . 840 

1811, . 1159 572 males. 587 females. 

1821, .1321 656 .665 

1831, . 1461 713 . 748 

Number of families in the parish, .... 290 

chiefly employed in agriculture, . . 118 

in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, . 41 

IV. — Industry. 
The number of ploughgates in the parish is 52, — each plough* 

gate, it is understood, contains 50 acres, and this makes the num- 
ber 2600 acres : To which may be added : the glebe and minister's 
garden, 9 acres ; schoolhouse and garden, 2 acres ; Mr Dunsmure's 
property, 6 acres ; other grounds in and about the village, 32 acres ; 
making the whole arable land, 2649 acres. Neither the plantations 
nor roads are included in this measurement 

Ilent. — The valued rent of the parish is L. 5663 Scots, and the 
real rent of the parish is from L. 7000 to L. 8000 Sterling. 

The number of farms does not exceed 17, and they are of 
moderate size. Horses alone are now employed in agriculture, 



CORSTORPHINE. 221 

although at the period of the last Statistical Account, oxen were 
used on one or more of the ferms. 

The rotation of the crops and management of the farms are so 
similar to the practice in other parishes in the county, in the ac* 
counts of which they are fully described, that it is quite unneces- 
sary to enlarge on them here. 

Horticulture, — The village of Corstorphine, like other ancient 
ecclesiastical stations, is surrounded by rich plots of garden ground, 
which have been long in a high state of- cultivation. Part of this 
ground is let at L. 8 per acre, and on it great quantities^of fruit, 
strawberries, and vegetables, areproducedfor the Edinburgh market. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Villages. — There were formerly two villages in this parish — 

Corstorphine and Gogar ; the latter, however, now does not de- 
serve the name. JCorstorphine towards the end of the last cen- 
tury, and beginning of the present, was a fashionable summer re- 
sidence for the inhabitants of Edinburgh, having its annual balls 
and 6ther amusements. The principal attraction to it at that period 
was the mineral spring before described. Besides these summer visi- 
tors, there were other strangers who chose Corstorphine for their re* 
sidence. These were young men of Norwegian and Swedish fami- 
lies, who were boarded with the schoolmaster of the parish. When 
Mr Simpson, the present schoolmaster, was appointed, in 1812, 
he found it necessary to acquire the Norwegian and Swedish lan- 
guages, and he continued to have under his charge several Nor- 
wegian boarders, until the present heavy duty was imposed on Bal- 
tic timber, after which period the intercourse between this part of 
the country and Norway ceased. 

The appearance of tlie village of Corstorphine has been great- 
ly improved since the date of the last Statistical Account, by the 
erection of a handsome villa, and a number of neat cottages, in 
1832, by the late David Johnston, Esq. merchant in Gibraltar, — a 
native of the village, who had acquired a fortune abroad, and 
spent the last years of his life in superintending these improve- 
ments. The healthiness of the climate, and this additional ac- 
commodation, has again made Corstorphine a resort for country 
quarters during the summer season ; and were it thoroughly drain- 
ed, as it might be at a very trifling expense, no situation in the vi« 
cinity of Edinburgh would be superior to it, either for salubrity or 
convenience of access. 

The principal traffic carried on in Corstorphine is the purchase 



222 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

and sale of hay and potatoes. Of other trades there are as (oU 
lows, viz. 3 bakers, 1 flesher, 8 grocers, 9 spirit dealers, 2 wrights, 
2 blacksmiths, 4 tailors with jouraeynien, 2 shoemakers with 
ditto. 

The village of Gogar is said to have contained 300 inhabitants 
at one time. About sixty years ago, among its constant residen- 
ters were, a watchmaker, flesher, baker, blacksmith, and wright, 
besides the schoolmaster. Now the three last, and two or three 
families of farm-servants, constitute its whole population. In 1838, 
it contained, including the farm-steading, only 7 families, compos- 
ed of 24 individuals. 

There are two other small villages in the parish ; the one, Stan- 
hope-mills, on the estate of Saughton, deriving its name from 
Janet Stanhope, wife of Richard Watson, Esq. of Saughton, who 
lived about 1550, contains 20 families, consisting of 67 indivi- 
duals; and the other, Four-mile*hill, contains. 12 families of 49 
individuals. In each at present there is a resident schoolmaster. 

There is an old house in Stanhope-mill, having above the 
door the arms and initials of Patrick Elphingston, with the date 
1623, and the words ^' Blisit be God for all his giftis.'* One of 
the rooms has a circular roof, highly ornamented, and the Royal 
arms on the wall, with the initials C : R : 2d. 

Means of Communication, — We have already mentioned, that 
there was a regular conveyance eight or nine times every week- 
day, and four times every Sunday, between Corstorphine and Edin- 
burgh, during the summer and autumn of 1749. The fare by 
this conveyance was 6d. for each person. To show the populari- 
ty of Corstorphine at that period in comparison with other jplaces 
now more resorted to, we may mention, that, in the same year, 
a stage-coach went and returned thrice every day from Edin- 
burgh to Musselburgh, the fare being 9d. ; while the regular stage- 
coach to Glasgow went on Monday and Thursday, and returned 
on Tuesday and Friday, every person paying 9s. of fare, and be- 
ing allowed to take with him a stone weight of baggage.* As the 
highway which leads from Edinburgh to Glasgow, and also to 
Falkirk and Stirling, passes through the village, the means of 
communication are very frequent, although there is not now sdiy 
coach from (Corstorphine to Edinburgh. Two years ago an at- 
tempt was made to establish* one, but it was only continued for 
one season. 

* Scots Magazine, Vol. zi. 



COIISTORPHINE. 223 

Ecclesiastical History and State — First Chapel arid Parish Church. 
— As early as the reign of David L, we have notices of the existence ' 
of a chapel attached to the manor of Corstorphine and subordinate to 
the kirk of St Cuthberts. In a charter by that monarch, to the Abbey 
of Holyroodhouse, dated in 1 128, he bestows on the canons of the 
abbey, the kirk of St Cuthberts, along with the Chapel of Crostor- 
fin, * and two bovates and six acres of land. This chapel is also 
noticed in the reign of Alexander II., when David le Mareschall 
acquired two acres of ground belonging to it, which lay adjoining 
to his estate of Crostorfin. It was afterwards converted into, or 
superseded by, a parish church. 

In the register of the Great Seal, the following donations to 
this church are mentioned and confirmed by royal charters, viz. 
Istj a donation in November 1465, by John Marshall, one of the 
chaplains of the Collegiate Church of Corstorphine, of certain tene- 
ments under the Castle wall of Edinburgh, for the maintenance 
of a chaplain to serve at the altar of the Holy Trinity in the pa- 
rish church ; and, 2<f, a donation, in September 1473, by William 
de Camera, Vic^r of Kirkurd, of property in the village of Cor- 
storphine, and annual rents, amounting to 11 merks 18s. 4d. Scots, 
payable from several tenements in Edinburgh, for the support of 
a secular chaplain to serve at the altar of St Ann in the parish 
church. The duty of this secular chaplain, as <lescribed in the 
Crown charter, is very characteristic of the times. He was to attend 
the altar, and perform daily masses there, for the safety, of the soul 
of the late King James II., — for the healthful state of King James 
III. — for the safety of the souls of their royal predecessors and suc- 
cessors, and of Sir Alexander Forrester of Corstorphine, — for the 
healthful state of Archibald Forrester of Corstorphine, and for the 
safety of the souls of his predecessors and successors — for the safety 
of the souls of the father and mother of the donor, William de 
Camera, and his ancestors and successors, — also of all to whom he 
was indebted, or from whom he had ever received any thing while 
in this world, — and lastly, for the souls of all the faithful dead. The 
patronage of this chaplainry after the founder's death is declared, 
to belong to the proprietor of Corstorphine and his heirs.-)* 

Second Chapel. — Towards the close of the fourteenth century, 
Sir Adam Forrester of Corstorphine erected in the vicinity of 
the parish church, another chapel, which was dedicated to St 

* Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 787, and Cart, of Holyroodhouse. 
t MS. Keg. Mag. S]gil. 



224 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

John the Baptist, and he founded three chaplainries in it, and paid 
to the chaplains during his life L. 24 Scots yearly.. After his 
death, this foundation was confirmed by a charter of King James 
1.5 dated 25th February 1425, which gives to Sir John Forrester 
and his heirs, the right to present fit persons as chaplains to the 
Bishop of St Andrews, who was to be bound to admit them to the 
benefice. And in order to provide for their personal residence, 
which by the charter is declared imperative, Sir John^ assigned 
to the chaplains three acres of ground in the village of Corstor- 
phine, for manses, with pasturage for three horses, and three cows 
with their followers of one year old. 

Other two chaplainries were founded by Dame Margaret For- 
rester, relict of Sir Adam Forrester, in the same chapel, and an- 
nual rents, amounting to L. 28, Ids. 4d. Scots, payable from pro« 
perty in Edinburgh, Leith, and Corstorphine, were mortified for 
the support of the chaplains. 

Collegiate Church. — In the course of the same year, 1429, 
Sir John Forrester founded a Provostry or collegiate church in 
the kirk-yard of the then existing parish church of. Corstorphine. 
The second chapel was probably built into this collegiate churchy 
for there is no mention of its separate existence after the year 1429, 
and they were both dedicated to the same patron saint, St John 
the Baptist. The original foundation of the collegiate church 
was for five prebendaries, of whom one was to be called the Pro- 
vost, and two boys ; and for their maintenance, Sir John consign- 
ed the annual rents of 120 ducats of gold, on condition that he 
and his successors should have the patronage of these appoint* 
ments, and on the understanding, that, if the kirk of Ratho were 
united to the provostry, other four or five prebendaries should be 
added to that establishment, and maintained out of the fruits of 
the benefice of Ratho. Pope Eugenius IV. sanctioned this foun- 
dation by a^ Bull, in which he directed the Abbot of Holyroodhouse, 
as his apostolic vicar, to ascertiiin whether the foundation and con* 
signation had been made in terms of the original grant ; and on 
being satisfied on these points, to unite and incorporate the church 
of Ratho, with all its rights,'emoluments, and pertinents, to the col- 
lege for ever.* 

In 1444, Sir John Forrester made a second application to the 
Pope, in which he stated that the emoluments of the Collegiate 

* See Foundation Charter in Sir Lewis Stewart's Collections, p. 108, in Advo- 
cates* Library. 



CORSTORPHINE. 225 

Church were not sufficient for the comfortable maintenance of ten 
prebendaries and two boys, and prayed that the number might be 
restricted to nine. In consequence of this application, Pope 
Eugenius issued another bull, limiting the number of prebendaries 
to nine. This bull is dated 15th July 1444, and was confirmed 
and carried into effect by James Kennedy, Bishop of St Andrews, 
who proceeded in virtue of it to arrange and distribute the proper- 
ty of the Collegiate Church among its several office-bearers, by a 
charter dated SOth October 1444.* This division is as follows, viz. 

To the Provost, the church of Clerkington, the teinds of Ratho, 
as well south as north, the teinds of Rolshaw (probably Roding- 
law), and six merks Scots, at two terms in the year, out of the com- 
mon funds of the college. 

And to the eight prebendaries or chaplains, as follows, viz. 

To the two chaplains of Gogar and Addistown, the teinds of 
upper Gogar and Addistown, with ten merks Scot^ half yearly, out 
of the common purse. 

To the two chaplains of Haltoun and Dalmahoy, the teinds of 
Haltoun and Dalmahoy, with ten merks Scots half yearly, out of 
the common purse. 

To the two chaplains of Boningtoun and Plet, the teinds of 
Boningtoun and Plet (now Ratho Hall and Hillwood), with ten 
merks Scots, "half yearly, out of the common ptirse. 

To the two chaplains of Nortoun and Byres, the teinds of 
Nortoun and Byres, (now Ratho Byres,) with ten merks Scots, 
half yearly, out of the common purse. And to the two boys in the 
said college, 24 bolls of usual victual, and L. 3 yearly, from the com- 
mon purse, to be equally divided between them. 

And for the stipend of the vicar and* the burdens of the kirk of 
Ratho, maintenance of the fabric, expense of bread and wine for 
the sacrament, of the altar, lights, cups, books, and other ornaments 
of the chaplainries and college, L. 12 from rents mortified by Sir 
John Forrester, besides the fruits of the altarage of the kirk of 
Ratho, and 3 chalders of victual out of the teinds, above appropri- 
ated to the provost of the college.* 

It is interesting to find this division of the Collegiate Church cor- 
roborated in the charter confirming the donation by the vicar of 
Kirkurd, to the parish kirk, already quoted, dated 27th September 
1473, in which the whole establishment of one provost and eight 

• Sir L. Stewart's Coll. f Ibid. 

EDINBURGH. P 



226 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

chaplains are mentioned as witnesses, the names being as follows, 
viz. Nicol Bannachtyne, provost ; Alexander Story, John Cra- 
mound, Hector Story, James de Hales, Andrew Gawmok, William 
Forrester, David Swintoun, and Malcolm Chepman, chaplains.* 

In the foundation charter, the annual value of the church of Ra- 
the is said not to exceed L. 50 Sterling, according to common esti- 
mation. The four prebends, instituted in consequence of the 
union of this church with the college, were Haltoun, Dalmahoy, 
Boningtoun, and Plet, and as the vicarage of Ratho had been 
formerly in the gift of the Bishop of St Andrews, when the union 
took place, he and his successors obtained a right to present alter- 
nately, /?er vicesy with the family of Forrester, to these four pre-" 
bends, while the Forresters continued to enjoy the sole patronage 
of all the other livings on the establishment 

In December 1475, Hugh Bar, a burgess of Edinburgh, found- 
ed an additional diaplainry, at the altar of the Holy Trinity, in the 
Collegiate Church. This chaplain, in addition to the perform- 
ances of daily masses for the souls of the King and Queen, the 
Lords of the Manor, and the founder's own mother and wife, and of 
all the faithful dead, was specially directed, at the commencement 
of each season of Lent, to exhort the people to say one pater dos« 
ter, and the salutation of the angel to the Virgin Mary for the souls 
of the same persons. This chaplainry was also in the gift of the 
Forresters after the death of the founder.-f* 

Besides the above possessions, the parish kirk of Corstorphine, 
with its chaplainries, was afterwards united to the Collegiate Church, 
but the period when this happened is not known. 

Possessing such revenues as we have enumerated, this Collegiate 
Church must have been regarded as an establishment of consider- 
able importance, and, accordingly, we find among its provosts men 
of eminence and influence. Some of those whose names have been 
handed down to posterity we shall briefly notice. 

The first provost was Nicol Bannatyne, who presided over the 
establishment from the year 1429 down to his death, which hap- 
pened after 1473. He was buried within the church, as appears 
from a Latin inscription, which is afterwards inserted. 

Among the after provosts, the most noted were Robert Cairn- 
cross, about 1520, and James Scott in 1554. 

Robert Cairncross was descended from an ancient family in For- 
farshire. Having passed through the usual classes at one of the 

* MSS. Reg. Mag. Sigil. f ^^^^' 



COnSTOttPHlNE. 227 

Scotch Universities, he applied himself to the study of divinity, and, 
soon after entering the church, he was appointed provost of Cor- 
storphine ; a place, says Crawford, of considerable dignity and re- 
venue. He was then advanced to be one of the King's chaplains, 
and, by his talent and subserviency to his royal master, he raised 
himself to offices, both civil and ecclesiastical, of great trust and in« 
fluenee. In 1528, he was made Lord High Treasurer, afterwards 
a Lord of Session, then Abbot of Holyroodhouse, which he is said 
to have obtained as the result of a wager he took with King James V. 
He was next promoted to be Bishop of Ross, and received in 
commendam the Abbacy of Fearn. He seems to have been a cor- 
rupt and dissolute man, and to have aided in no small degree 
in exciting popular detestation against the church to which he 
belonged. Shortly before his death, which happened in 1544, 
ho obtained letters of legitimation in favour of his three natural 
children, to enable them to succeed to the large fortune he had 
amassed. 

James Scott was brother of Sir Alexander Scott, Vice- Register 
of Scotland in the reign of James V. He was bred to the church, 
and, soon after entering into holy orders, was preferred to the 
office of Provost of Corstorphine. While Provost, he is said to 
have built a house or manse near the collegiate church, for the 
use of himself and his successors in office, and placed on it his 
coat of arms, from which it appears that he was related to the 
family of Buccleuch.* He was a man of great learning and in- 
tegrity, and from his own acquirements, and the respect which 
King James cherished for the memory of his relative the Regis- 
ter, he was promoted to be Clerk to the Treasury, and afterwards 
made a Lord of Session. 

The last Provost was Alexander M'Gill, who was probably 
a layman, and held the office in commendam. He quarrelled 
with the Presbytery of Edinburgh in 1601, refusing obedience to 
some of their orders, and, in consequence, both he and his wife, 
who had absented herself from church for a long period, were or- 
dered to make public confession, on pain of excommunication. 
For a long time they resisted this order, till Mr Arthur, minister 
of Corstorphine, actually commenced the process of excommuni- 
cation, going through all the censures except the last prayer, which 

* Nisbet*8 Heraldry, Vol. ii. The house said to have belonged to the provasts is 
a large house adjoining to the church.yard at the south-west corner, which has the 
initials A. S. Poes engraved on it, and a coat armorial partly defaced. 



228 KDI^BURGUSHIRE. 

he delayed for a week, intimating thai he would complete the re- 
mainder, unless appearance was made on the following Sabbath. 
This threat had the desired effect, and on 1st February 1602, the 
Provost ^* compeirit and satisfied the congregation in all points/' 
Shortly afterwards, Isobel Carbeth, his wife, ^* compeirit before 
the Presbytery, and they having shairply rebukit her, she upon 
her knees confessit her sin, in not repairing to the kirk for a year 
and a-half, and promisit to amend, qlk humiliation and promise 
the minister was directed to intimate on the following Sabbath in 
the Kirk of Corstorphine/'* 

Mr Alexander M^Gill resided in the house adjoining the col- 
legiate church, built by one of his predecessors. He is a witness 
to a sasine of lands in the parish of Cramond, on 17th July 1606. 

Mr Wood quotes two manuscript rentals,f but without giving 
their dates, or mentioning where they are to be found, in both of 
which valuations of the provostry are contained. 

In the first, which he calls a carefully compiled Manuscript Ac- 
count of Benefices, Praepositura de Corstorphin is rated at L. 46, 
lOs. dd. ; and the prebends are stated as eight in number, viz. 
Bonytoune, Plat, Norton, Ratho Byres, Overgogar, Halderstoun, 
*Dalmahoy, and Haltoun. The second, which he calls " A Ma- 
nuscript Roll and Rental of Small Benefices," rates the provostry 
at 500 merks, and separately values the eight prebends of Half 
Halton, Half Dalmahoy, Half Gogar, Half Addiston, Half Nor- 
ton, Half Byres, Half Bonytoune, and Half Piatt, at 450 merks, 
leaving 50 merks for the provost's salary. 

In the Books of Collections of the Thirds, the revenues of the 
collegiate church after the Reformation are said to have consisted 
of the teinds of Ratho and parsonage of Clerkington, and are es- 
timated in money at L. 122, 13s. 4d. Scots. 

At the Reformation, when church property was in general an- 
nexed to the Crown, an exception was made in favour of provost- 
ries and other endowments, which had been originally founded by 
private individuals for their own ease and spiritual advantage, and 
the existing patrons were ^en allowed either to dispose of their 
revenues to bursars in the universities, or to apply them to any 
other purposes consonant with the principles and spirit of the Re- 
formation ;:( accordingly, we find Sir George Forrester, in 1621, 

* Presbytery Register, Vol. iii. f Wood's M S. History of Corstorphine. 

I The patronage and part of the teinds of Ratho were sold by James Lord For- 
resterin 1670 to Charles Maitland of Hstton. See p. 24. 



CORSTORPHINE. 229 

applying to Parliament for authority to separate the parish church 
of Corstorphine^ with manse, glebe, teinds, fruits, and rent of the 
same from the provostry, and to unite the four prebends of the 
provostry (t. e* the teiud sheaves of Ratho,) to the parish kirk, but 
to reserve a certain sum ^^ to be payit by the ministers of Corstor- 
phine out of these revenues to the actual minister of Ratho." 

A few years afterwards, when more enlightened opinions became 
prevalent, regarding the application of church property, another, 
act of Parliament was obtained by Sir George, then Lord For- 
rester, dissolving the four prebends, the whole .revenues of which 
were drawn from lands situated in the parish of Ratho, from 
the parish church of Corstorphine, as *' prejudicial to the kirk of 
Ratho, and repugnant to the common course and order intended 
for the plantation of kirks, whereby it is thoug)it fit that each mi- 
nister sail receive competent maintenance out of the teinds of his 
own parish.'' 

After this separation, the sole remaining possession of the Pro- 
vostry was the parsonage of Clerkington, which, in a manuscript 
in the Advocates' Library, is valued in 1625 at L.27, 10s. 8d. 
In 1*634, the Provost and first prebendary, with the consent of the 
patron and other prebendaries, dissolved the collegiate church, 
and separated from it this parsonage, and, in 1641, Parliament 
confirmed the dissolution, annexing the four prebends to the 
estate of Dalmahoy, and the parsonage to the estate of Clerking- 
ton. 

Parish Church. — We have hitherto referred to the parish church 
as existing previous to the religious establishments founded by the 
family of Forrester. At first it belonged to the Abbey of Holy- 
foodhouse, and was connected with the church of St Cuthberts. 
It was afterwards attached to the collegiate church of Corstor- 
phine, while that establishment remained in efiiciency, but was 
separated from it at the commencement of the Reformation. 

The first Protestant teacher in Corstorphine was Walter Cow- 
per, reader, whose name is mentioned in the Register of ministers, 
exhorters, and readers, after the Reformation, as having died in 
November 1570. 

From 1570 down to 1587, there was no Protestant clergymen 
in Corstorphine, but on 7th March 1587, Sir James Forrester of 
Corstorphine and the remanent parishioners of that parish, ap- 
plied to the Presbytery of Edinburgh to recognize the church of 
Corstorphine as a proper parish church, praying that they sHpuld 



230 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

not be " compellit to hant (frequent) any other paroch kirk nor 
their awin, qlk had been fundit of auld to yt effect." On re- 
ceiving this application, the Presbytery ordained " the Abbot of 
Halierudhouse, the ministers and elders of St Cuthberts, and all 
others having interest, to connpear before them the following day, 
and declare whether they had anything to object to this supplica- 
tion, but none having compeared, the Presbyterie directed Sir 
James Forrester to lay before them all the auld fundations, rights, 
and papers, instructing that the church of Corstorphine was for- 
merly a. parish chijrch." 

Sir James Forrester accordingly produced the papal bulls and 
other rights ia his possession, at a meeting of Presbytery held on 
19th March 1587, when they were " examined and advycit upon by 
the brethren of the Presbytery, who found that the kirk of Cor- 
storphine was of auld a paroch kirk, interponed their authority to, 
and authorized the same accordingly, and they farther ordained a 
supplication to be made to the Lord's modifiers of ministers' sti- 
pends, to assign a stipend out of the thirds of Halierudhouse to 
the said kirk. The first stipend must have been very small, for 
its inadequacy was for many years afterwards a subject of frequent 
complaint, and neither manse nor glebe were then designed to the 
minister, who lived in a house in the village belonging to Sir James 
Forrester."* 

It is probable that, within two or three years after this decision 
of the Presbytery, a clergyman was appointed to Corstorphine, 
but as there is a blank in register of the Presbytery from 1589 to 
1591, the exact period of this settlement cannot be ascertained. 
In February 1 589, the Laird of Corstorphine was a commissioner 
of Assembly, which makes it probable that the church then had a 
minister. 

On 6th June 1591, there was a visitation of Corstorphine and 
Gogar by certain members of the Presbytery, who reported that 
*^ in the minister of Corstorphine they fand nathing sclanderous, 
and all things in the kirk they fand in a good state." And as 
concerning the kirk of Gogar, " they thought good, it being so small 
a congregation, and syk near to Corstorphine, that it should be 
joinit 'thereto, in which opinion the brethren of the Presbytery ac- 
quiesced." 

Notwithstanding the favourable opinion of the Presbytery, the 

• Presbytery Regis Jcr, Vol. i. -f Ibid. 



COnSTOUPHlNE. 231 

union of the parishes of Gogar and Corstorphine was not carried 
into effect for several years after this period. 

In August 1598, the Presbytery appointed visitations of both 
churches, with the special object of bringing about this union. 
On this occasion the Laird of Corstorphine, in nan^e of the parish- 
ioners, in addition to Gogar, craved the Presbytery to unite to 
Corstorphine the estates of Saughton, Saughtonhall, and Brum- 
houses. From the reports of these visitations, it appears that the 
church of Corstorphine had then a minister, elders, and deacons, 
while the church of Gogar had merely a reader, who resided in 
Edinburgh. After these preliminary examinations, the presbytery, 
on 9th January 1599, proposed a temporary union of the parishes, 
and having obtained the concurrence of the three leading heritors 
of Gogar, they next proceeded to carry their proposal into effect, 
by transferring the reader from Gogar to Corstorphine, and di- 
recting the minister to preach alternately at Gogar and Corstor- 
phine per vices. This arrangement was not satisfactory to either 
parish, but it was enforced by the authority of the Presbytery, 
and every remonstrance against it was met by a promise to sanc- 
tion separate charges, whenever ample provisions should be made 
for the maintenance of separate clergymen. 

In the beginning of 1600, the Presbytery appointed two of their 
number Commissioners to enquire at the Abbot of Holyroodhouse, 
what provision he was willing to make for the " kirk of Corstor- 
phine, as ane of the kirks of his abbacy.*' The only result of 
this enquiry was an explanation that the " teinds of the kirk had 
been set in 1597, for twenty-two years for the tack duty of L. 40 
per annum, and under the burden of sustaining and upholding the 
queir, and reserving the manse and gleib to the minister." 

In April 1602, the parishioners of Corstorphine agreed to con- 
tribute a sum of L. 30 additional, yearly, to the stipend of their 
clergyman, on condition of his confining his ministrations to Cor- 
storphine church, and this agreement was acceded to by the pa- 
rishioners of Gogar, and enforced by the Presbytery, on the under- 
standing that the parishioners were to have " the benefit of the kirk 
of Corstorphine until they should be in a situation to provide a mi- 
nister for themselves.* This time, however, never arrived, and 
the arrangement then made has never since been disturbed. 

On the establishment of the Bishoprick of Edinburgh in Sep- 

• Presbytery Register, Vol. iii. 



232 EDINBUUGHSHIEE. 

tember 1683, St Cuthbert's and Corstorphine churches were unit* 
ed to it, but this connexion was annulled in 1638^ and after being 
restored in 1662, was finally dissolved on the re-establishment of 
Presbytery in 1689. 

Church and Monuments. — In Popish times, the fabric of the 
parish church was maintained, as well as that of the collegiate 
church, a separate set of priests and chaplains officiating in each ; 
and it seems probable that the parish church was used at the be- 
ginning of the Reformation by the reader, and first Protestant 
clergyman ; for in the tack of the teinds of the kirk of Corstorphine 
in 1597, there is an express stipulation on the lessee, Henry For- 
rester, to sustain and uphold the quire of the parish kirk. In the 
beginning of the next century, however, the collegiate church was 
occupied by the parish minister ; and we find among the first en- 
tries in the parish register, under date 3d May 1646, an order 
given by the kirk-session, for taking down the old parish kirL* 
Since that period, the collegiate church has always been used as 
the parish church, and has, from time to time, been repaired and 
altered as the occasion required. 

Previous to the last repair, the church was of the form of a 
Calvary cross, with a projection to the north at the bottom or east 
end, and a spire and low-roofed house, now used as a session-house 
or vestry, at the west end. The north arm of this cross had been 
added during the last century by the proprietor of Saughtonhall ; 
the rest of the building was ancient, and had the original roof of 
compact stone. 

When the church was repaired, the Saughtonhall aisle was 
taken down, and another erected in a style which corresponds bet* 
ter with the southern aisle, and, at the same time, the roof of about 
two-thirds of the building was removed, and a slated double roof 
erected in its place, of the same height as the roof of the southern 
aisle, which was considerably lower than the original roof of the prin- 
cipal building. This altered portion and the southern aisle consti- 
tute the present church, while the eastern end and north-eastern 
projection form the chancel and burying-ground of the Forresters. 
According to tradition, the southern aisle is the most ancient 
part of the building, and was probably a part of the chapel of St 
John the Baptist. On the outer wall of it are carved, in seve- 
ral places, the arms of the Forresters, and within, bdow the win* 

* Parish Register, Vol. i. 



CORSTOUPHINE. 233 

doW) ia a vaulted arch^ there is a recumbent stone figure of a man 
with a sword hanging athis side ; the head resting on a stone cushion, 
and the feet on the figure of a dog. On the front of the arch are 
three armorial shields ; 1 Party per fess, a ship within a bordure 
in the upper half, and a cross raguled on the lower half, Sinclair 
of Orkney impaling Forrester, three hunting horns stringed. 
2. Forrester; 3. Forrester, having in the centre an escutcheon of 
pretence charged with a cross, raguled Sinclair. From the family 
arms being engraved on it, this must be the tomb of one of the 
Forresters, and probably represents Sir Alexander Forrester, ♦ 

On the north side of the chancel, under two similar vaults, are 
other stone figures in the same style of antique sculpture. The 
figures in the recess nearest to the body of the church represent 
Sir John Forrester, the founder of the Collegiate Church, and 
one of his ladies. Fronting this arch are five shields armorial, 
viz. 1. Forrester, three hunting horns stringed ; 2. Forrester im- 
paling St Clair of Orkney ; quarterly, first and fourth, a ship, se* 
cond and third, a cross; 3. Forrester; 4. Forrester impaling a 
fess cheque Stewart ; 5. Forrester. The figures under the other 
recess represent his son Sir John Forrester and his lady, and front- 
ing these figures are the three following shields armorial, viz. 1. 
Forrester ; 2. Forrester impaling Stewart, a fess cheque ; 3. For- 
rester, indicating that his lady's name was Stewart*|* 

On the wall of the chancel there is the following inscription : 

Istud Collegium incepit anno Domini 1429, et eodem anno 
Magister Nicholayus Banachtyne, propositus hie, subtus jacens, 
qui obiit anno Domini 147-. Cujus anniversarius simul posterisque 
Magistris celebrabitur T4 die mensis Junii pro quo annuus reddi- 
tus 10 librarum in villa de noyo Kirk Cramond. Orate pro papa 
et eo.:[ 

This inscription may be rendered thus in English : — " This col- 
legiate church was begun in the year of pur Lord 1429, and in 
the same year Mr Nicol Bannatyne was Provost here, who, lying 
beneath^ died in the year 147- ; a commemoration of him and his 
successors in office will be celebrated on the 14th of June annually, 
for which an annual rent of L. 10 is set apart out of the lands of 
New Kirk Cramond. — Pray for the Pope and for him." 

There are besides in the chancel, the niche where the basin of 

• Douglas Peerage by Wood, voce Forrester. f Ibid. 

$ This inscription is in old English characters with numerous abbreviations, and 
the last five words of it are partly erased. 



234 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

holy water was fixed, and an empty recess, which was once, no 
doubt, occupied by a stone figure like the others. 

In the room to the north of the chancel, formerly the burying 
vault of the Forresters, and now occupied by a stove for heating 
the church, there are several stones with inscriptions on them. 
One of these, which was formerly placed in the inner wall of the 
south aisle of the ehurch, contained a donation to the poor; but 
the first part of it is delete, so that the donor's name is not known. 
The words are : ^' Et dictus Patricius dedit in perpetuum pro sub- 
sidio praedictorum pauperum unum annuum reddilum quadraginta 
denariorum praedictae monetae, de Tota et Integra terra Joannis 
March, jacen inpraedicto burgo, secundum tenorem cartae indecon- 
fectae." Another, which was dug up from under the wall separating 
the church from the chancel at the last repair, contains the figure 
of a chalice with a wafer above it in the centre, and round this fi- 
gure towards the margin of the stone, in old English characters, 
the inscription, " Hie jacet Magister Robertus Heriot Bachilarius in 
Decretis, quoridam Rector Eccl'*. de Gogar, qui obiit xi. die men- 
sis Junii ano D'^^ m*^. ccccxliij." A third, which was found in 
a vault below the centre of the church, is a stone with an inscrip- 
lion over the tomb, of a relative of Agnes Tod, second wife of 
Archibald Forrester, and is in these words :-:— " Hie Jacet Alexr. 
Tod quond. filius Thomae Tod militis, qui obiit vii. die mensis 
September, ano D"' m**. cccc®. lxxx<>.'' Other stones, containing va- 
rious emblems and flowers, were found in the same vault. One of 
these, now at Corstorphine Hill, has a sword and emblems of a 
knight of one of the holy orders. This stone may possibly have co- 
vered the grave of the renowned Bernard SteuartLord D'Aubigny, 
who was Knight of the Order of St Michael, and died in the house 
of Archibald Forrester of Corstorphine in June 1508, and is said 
to have been buried within the collegiate church. 

Stipends. — At the first establishment of the Reformed Church, 
the reader's stipend was L. 25 Scots. Mr David Bassillie's sti- 
pend before 1631 was 340 merks Scots, and on 25th March of that 
year was augmented by the commission, with consent of the titu- 
lar of the teinds, to 300 merks money, and half a chalder of 
victual, half bear and half meal, during his incumbency, and after- 
wards another half chalder was to be added, and this without pre- 
judice to any augmentation to be modified out of the teinds of 
Gogar. The stipend in 1755 amounted to L. 84, lis. Id., and 
in 1798 to L. 175, 16s. 8d. 



CORSTORPHINE. 235 

The stipend now is the whole teinds of the parish, which are 
as follows : — 



Bolls. 


Firlots. ' 


Pecks. 


Lippies. 


3 





3 


0« Teas. 


38 


2 


2 


2« Wheat. 


104 


I 





8» Bear. 


.55 


1 


2 


3« Oats. 


52 


1 


2 


V Meal. 



Money, L. 2, 4s. 5^d. and vicarage. Ids. 4d. ; in all, 272 bolls. 

The following is a list of the clergymen jof the parish since the 
Reformation, viz. Mr Walter Cowper, reader, died in November 
1570. — Ministers : 1. Mr Andrew Forrester, son of Mr Alexander 
Forrester, minister of Tranent, admitted between 1587 and 1591, 
and transferred to Tranent in September 1598. 2. Mr Wil- 
liam Arthur, appointed to preach during the vacancy by the 
presbytery on 19th September 1598; admitted minister of Cor- 
storphine and Gogar, in consequence of a call of the peo- 
ple, on 7th June 1599. He was appointed by the General As- 
sembly of 1602, to visit the kirks in the west country. He is 
last noticed in the presbytery register, in August 1603. 8. Mr 
David Bassillie was minister in February 1631, and died about 
1654. 4. Mr Robert Hunter was elected by the heritors, elders, 
and whole parishioners, without one dissenting voice, and admitted 
1 1th April 1655 ; he was ejected for non-conformity on 2d October 
1662. After which the kirk was vacant till the appointment of, 
5. Mr Thomas Mowbray, who was received to the ministerial 
function on 13th March 1665, by collation of the Bishop of Ed- 
inburgh, with consent of the heritors. 6. Mr Archibald Chisholm, 
was presented to the living by James Lord Forrester, the patron, 
ratiBed by collation of George Bishop of Edinburgh ; and admitted 
on 7th December 1666. 7. Mr John Pringle was presented and 
admitted in the same way on 24th July 1670. 8. Mr George 
Henry was presented by Lord Forrester, and, in absence of all the 
heritors, admitted on 9th May 1672; he was expelled for refusing 
to proclaim William and Mary, on 10th May 1689. 9. Mr 
Archibald Hamilton, admitted in 1692, and died on 30th April 
1709. 10. Mr George Fordyce, chosen by a majority of the he- 
ritors and elders as patrons, under the Act 1692, and admitted on 
presenting their call with an adherence thereto bi/ thepeople^ on 18th 
October 1709, and died on 30th August 1767, aged eighty-five. 
1 L Mr John Chiesley, a Fife parson, " who had been very service- 
able to Mr Alexander of Clermiston, in his canvass for the An- 
struther burghs,*" was by his influence translated hither, and admitted 



236 KDINBURGHSHIBE. 

on 2dd November 1768; he died in June 1788^ ^'not much regret- 
ted by the parishioners." 12. Mr Thomas Sharp was tutor in 
the family of ihe patron ; he was afterwards settled in the south 
of Scotland, and translated hither, and admitted on 15th Octo- 
ber 1789, he died in July 1791.* 13. Mr James Oliver, former- 
ly minister of Ancrum, was admitted on 5th July 1792.f 14. Dr 
David Scott, was ordained and admitted on 17th November 1814, 
elected Professor of Oriental Languages in the University of St 
Andrews in 1833. 15. Mr David Home, formerly minister of 
Yester, was admitted on 28th November 1833. 

Presbyterial Visitations. — When the church was first planted, 
and for many years afterwards, it was watched over by the Presby- 
tery of Edinburgh with zealous care, and they appointed it to be 
visited from time to time by some of their members. Reports of 
these visitations are entered in the presbytery registers, and they 
seem to have been uniformly attended with good effects. We 
have already shown that it was by this means that the union of the 
parishes of Corstorphine and Gogar was accomplished, and that 
the stipend of Corstorphine was made adequate and respectable. 
Many other subjects, however, engrossed the attention of the vi- 
sitors. In August 1598, for instance, after enquiring into the life and 
doctrine ofthe minister and his wife and family, and sharplie rebuking 
the elders for not resorting to the kirk on the Sabbath afternoon, 
they examined the session-books, and finding no schoolmaster in 
the parish, enjoined that one should be immediately appointed; ar- 
ranged with the provost and laird of Corstorphine to put new glass 
windows into the kirk, and to rebuild the kirk-yard dykes ; and 
communed with the Abbot of Halierudhouse on the ruinous state 
of queir of the paroch kirk, and the inadequacy of the clergyman^s 
stipend. On another visitation on 16th October 1599, which 
seems to have been appointed because the parishioners had com- 
plained that Mr William Arthur, their minister, was ^^ overleirnit a 
man for thame.*' " The presbytery fand, Ist, That Mr William 
Arthur edifiet them, but craved that he suld be mair plain to the 
people in deliverie. 2d^ He was honest in lyf, and careful in dis- 
charging his dewtie. Itenij They fand that the elders wer slack 
and negligent in discipline, qrof they being admonishet promisit 
to amend." Itemf That deacons were ^^ faithful in their office,'' &c. 

• Wood's MS. 

f See the remarks on the state of reh'gion in the parish in the last Statistical Ac- 
count, Vol. m, pp. 461 and 468, written by Mr Oliver as a specimen of bis views. 
He seems to have been a sounder politician than a divine. 



CORSTORPHINE. 237 

The next visitation took place in February 1601, and the report 
shews that the admonitions had been useful for ^^ they fand Mr 
William Arthur, theminister, eldaris, anddeaconis, weel thocht of;' 
and again in August 1602, ^* they heard nathing of the minister, 
elders, and deacons, but a good report, and all uther things wer 
Weill." 

Discipline. — During the ministry of Mr David Bassillie and 
his successor, Mr R. Hunter, there was a weekly sermon in the 
church every Tuesday, except for a few weeks in seed-time and 
in harvest, and it was after this sermon that, the meetings of ses- 
sion were usually held. This weekly service was discontinued after 
Mr Hunter's expulsion, and was not resumed until June 1674, 
when Mr Henry, at the request of the elders, promised to preach 
every Thursday in time coming, except seed-time and harvest, 
and from this period it was kept up during the incumbency of Mr 
Archibald Hamilton and his successor, Mr Fordyce, at whose 
death it was finally given up. Church discipline was much more 
strictly enforced, and the parish under a more efficient guardian- 
ship, while this service was continued, than during the incumbency 
of the three Episcopalian clergymen of the intervening period, from 
1662 to 1672. During this disturbed period, there are many indica- 
tions in the register, of comparative laxity of principle in the clergy- 
men, and of the disaffection of the people to Episcopacy. As a speci • 
men of the former, we may quote the following entry : << 2d May 
1668. Anent scandal, &c. The session thinks fit that the Justices 
of His Majesty's Peace who are heritors of this paroch, may be ad- 
vertised to sit in session the next Lord's day, in regard that much 
of the matter contained in the two claims belongs to their part." 
This may be contrasted with the following entry on 15th May 
1692, soon afler the re-establishment of Presbytery; *' Mr Wil- 
son's petition for remuneration for his trouble in providing preachers 
during the vacancy, not being a work JU for the Sabbath^ is con- 
tinued, and afterwards referred to a meeting of heritors." The 
impopularity of Episcopacy is well illustrated by the following en- 
tries: " 1st Sept. 1670. This day, Lord Forrester desired the 
minister to cause every elder in their respective bounds, to give up 
a list of all such persons as absent ye church, in contempt of ye 
present government yrof ;" and " 1 1th February 1677. The minis- 
ter gave in a grievance against Alexander Lowrie, for baptising 
his child with ane unconformed minister, contrary to the establish- 
ed government of the church." 



238 EDIN BURGHSHIRE. 

On the other hand, the register exhibits, during the ministry of 
Mr Robert Hunter, Mr Archibald Hamilton, and Mr Fordyce, 
the most rigid examples of Presbyterian strictness in order and 
discipline. In July 1655, Mr Hunter assigned to the elders and 
deacons separate districts of the parish '^ for their special oversight 
of the manners and conversation of the people living in the same, 
to the end that they might visit every one in their quarters, take 
inspection of their carriage, and give, from time to time, informa- 
tion of any thing amiss therein." In this arrangement, a deacon 
was joined to one or two elders in the superintendence of the dis- 
trict in which they respectively resided. They were likewise in- 
structed to search their bounds, to see what servants were lately 
come to the parish, and to make report of their testimonials, that 
their names might be taken up for examination, and the elder and 
deacon of the bounds was required to be present at the diet of 
examination of those in their own bounds. 

When Mr Archibald Hamilton and Mr Fordyce were ministers 
of Corstorphine, the parochial machinery was still more efficient 
and complete. The session of the former, in July 1695, assumed 
the singular power of directing their kirk-officer severely to punish 
all children whom he found breaking the Sabbath. In October 
1705, the minister recommended to all the elders to be careful 
that the worship of God be kept up in each family of their bounds. 
At this time also the elders and deacons had their privy censures, 
each leaving the meeting in turn, while the others reported what 
they knew of his life and conversation, and on his return he was 
commended or exhorted, as the report was favourable or the reverse. 

Mr Fordyce, shortly after his ordination, proposed that for all 
time coming, the elders should meet in the church the first Mon- 
day of every month, at nine o'clock in the morning, where he would 
meet with them, and spend some time in prayer, and conference 
about the state of the parish, ^' when they would endeavour to edify 
one another by proposing and solving cases of conscience and 
Scripture doubts, and )ie also promised to explain to them a part 
of the Confession of Faith, each of these times, till they had gone 
through it all. To this proposal all the elders readily agreed." In 
1712, he laid before his session ^Uhe necessity of prayer, and setting 
up societies through the several bounds of the parish for the same, 
to which all the elders readily agreed, and it was resolved that he 
and the elders in their several districts, should speak to the heads 
of families anent the same.^' 

4 



COIISTORPHINE. 239 

After Mr Fordyce's death, during the ministry of the two follow- 
ing clergymen, discipline was so totally relaxed, that on Mr Oliver's 
appointment, he found only a single elder in the parish, and dis- 
covered that the register of discipline had been discontinued for ten 
years, while the few entries between that period and the death of 
Mr Fordyce are in general dated at the nianse, where it appears 
Mr Chiesley usually held his meetings of session. 

Election of Ministers and Elders. — Sir Robert Keith Dick of 
Corstorphine is patron of the church. In the list of clergymen, 
we have mentioned the form in which they were severally elected, 
where any record of it is preserved in the presbytery or parish re- 
gisters. The consent and concurrence of the congregation was 
most carefully sought in the elections prior to 1665, and in the 
elections of Mr George Fordyce, and probably of his predecessor. 
The others, with the exception of the present incumbent, who was 
settled under the Act of 1833, were the presentees of absolute pa- 
trouage. Enough has been stated above to enable the reader to 
judge which of the two systems has worked best in this parish. 

There were deacons as well as elders from the planting of the 
church down to the expulsion of Mr Hunter in 1662. At first the 
session was elected or re-elected annually and publicly received be- 
fore the congregation. In September 1656, there is an entry in 
the register of discipline, complaining that, *^ for many years by- 
gone, the elders and deacons had not been changed nor publicly re- 
ceived before the congregation, whereby the power and authority 
of the session was ready to be vilified, the people neither knowing 
the charge and duty of such as were over them, nor were those in 
charge put in mind of their charge, nor solemnly engaged to the 
same." It is then stated that it is ^'^ the order and practice of this 
church that, either yearly or in similiter congregations in thecouu- 
trie, each two years, there should be a new election of the elder- 
ship." 

Both elders and deacons were always elected by the previous ses- 
sion, except in 1684, when the heritors named to the minister the el- 
ders they wished for their respective districts, Lord Forrester appoint- 
ing those for the barony, and fhe others for their own estates. The 
form of election at first was for the session to meet and agree upon 
a list of persons qualified for the office and living in the several dis- 
tricts into which the parish was ecclesiastically divided. The pre- 
sent elders and deacons of each district were then removed, and in 
their absence the rest of the session proceeded to elect an elder or 



240 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

elders and a deacon for that district, till the number was filled up. 
The names were then intimated from the pulpit, when all the congre- 
gation were required to state any objections they might have to any 
of the persons chosen. After 1692 elders were chosen in the form 
now in general use. In 1656, the session consisted of nine elders 
and seven deacons. In 1709, the parish was divided into twelve 
districts, and an elder appointed to each. 

Gogar. — According to Mr Wood, Gogar is a Celtic word, signify- 
ing light ; it was originally written Goger. There was a church or 
rectory at Gogar, which is noticed in the MS. Taxationes Eccle* 
siasticarum in Episcopatu St Andreae et Decanatu de Linlithgow in 
the year 1167, as Ecclesia de Gogar. This church was acquired 
by the canons of Holy rood in 1240. It seems to have been sepa- 
rated from Holy rood in 1296, when the kirk lands belonging to it 
were given to Andrew, then parson of Gogar. In the taxt roll of 
the archbishoprick of St Andrews, in 1547, it is entered as Rec- 
toria de Gogar, and it is included in Keith's list of the parsonages 
at the Reformation. It was at one time annexed to the Trinity 
College of Edinburgh.* 

Although it is called a parish church, it does not appear that any 
well«defined parish was ever assigned to it It comprehended, pro- 
bably, the villages of Nether Gogar and Gogar Stone, and the 
whole of the lands now known by the name of Gogar. At the Re- 
formation the superintendent of Lothian placed John Coise, reader 
in the kirk of Gogar, who seems to have been a very illiterate 
man. He was ordered by the presbytery in 1586 " to desist from 
public preaching, and to content himself with simple reading of God's 
word;'' and at a second visitation in 1598, he was directed ^*to 
read prayers and chapters, and catechise the people after the form 
of examination, and to learn thame to reheirs ye articles of ye be- 
leif, ye commands, and ye Lord's Prayer." 

The parishioners of Gogar made many efforts to havQ their 
kirk planted, but they were too few in number and too poor to 
raise a sufficient provision for that purpose. With this view they 
applied to the Synod and Presbytery in 1599, offering to give 
Mr William Arthur, who was then serving the cure of Corstor- 
phine, L. 100 per annum and their kirkland, if he would become 
their regular clergyman. This, however, was considered an in- 
adequate provision, and therefore the Presbytery ^^ thocht good, 
for the present, to unite Gogar and Corstorphine." 

* See SiJOttisMTOod's Account of Religious IIouscSi p. 529. 

3 



CORSTORPIUNE, 241 

In the ancient taxatio of 1167, the Kirk of Gogar is valued at 
12 marks, and in Bagimont's Roll, at L.5, 6s. 8d. JohnCoise's 
stipend was the haill third of the parsonage and vicarage of Go- 
gar, and amounted to L« 22, 4s. 5d. Scots. 

The only distinguished rector of Gogar was Willielmus Man- 
derstoun, who was also Doctor in Medicine, and Rector of the 
University of St Andrews in 1530. He was the author of two 
learned works in logic and moral philosophy, * and probably held 
the living of Gogar as a sinecure. Another rector, James Heriot, 
Bachilarius in Decretis, died in 1440, and was buried in Corstor«i 
phine church. 

Gogar Kirky Church-yard^ and Glebe. — A small portion of the 
kirk of Gogar, which still exists, was converted into a family bu- 
rying-ground, by the proprietor of the estate, soon after the Re- 
formation. In 1748, Sir Robert Myreton of Gogar applied to 
the presbytery for a feu of the glebe and church-yard of Gogar, 
consisting of four acres of arable land, then let at L.4 per annum, 
and he offered to pay to the minister and his successors that rent 
as a perpetual feu-duty. This arrangement was formally agreed 
to by the Presbytery, and was acted on down to the year 1825, 
when Dr Scott, then clergyman of the parish, having been ad- 
vised that the transaction was illegal, raised an action against Mr 
Ramsay of Barnton, and was successful in recovering the glebe 
and church-yard as an inalienable property of the church. It is 
now let by the clergyman at a rent of L. 4 per acre. 

Ecclesiastical Statistics. — The church is seated for 536 persons. 
Of this number there are appropriated to the heritors, according 
to their valued rent, 470 sittings : to the minister, 1 1 ; the elders, 
10 ; the schoolmaster, 8 ; pew for baptisms, 5 ; and to the poor, 32. 
Education. — In the Report of the Presbyterian Visitation of 
August 1598, it is said that ^^ they fand na schoolmaster in the 
parish, qlk they desyrit thame to amend.'' Whether this re- 
commendation was immediately attended to does not appear ; but 
from an entry at the commencement of the parish register, it is 
evident that a school existed previous to 1646. In that entry it 
is stated, that ^^ Mr James Chalmer had agreed to be schoolmaster 
on receiving one hundred merks, for the payment of which the 
whole heritors were to be stented according to the proportion of 
their lands, in addition to what had been doted to former school- 
masters by George Lord Forrester, viz. ane house and yards within 

• Sec M»Cric*8 Life of Melville, Vol. I. p. 437. 
EDINBURGH, 2 



242 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

the towne of Corstorphine, lying betwixt the minister's manse on 
the east, and John Aitken, mason, on the west, together with ane 
aiker and half of land lying above the smiddie upon the east side 
of the walk which goes to Cramond, and an aiker of land lying 
bewest the Cowesbrigge, upon the south syde of the little house 
that stands in the way-side, commonly called the Lamp Aiker^* 
within the parochine of St Cuthberts," &c In December 1655, 
the Session, by advice of the Presbytery, prohibited a man and 
his wife from teaching in the village, as an interference with the 
rights of the parochial schoolmaster. In 1699, however, it ap- 
pears that there were two schoolmasters in the parish, the one 
probably teaching at Corstorphine, and the other at Gogar. 

In April 1714, the fees per quarter to be charged by the parish 
schoolmaster were fixed by the kirk-session as follows, viz. Latin 
and arithmetic, 2s. 6d. ; English and writing. Is. 8d.; English 
alone. Is. 2d. In September 1756, they were altered by the 
same authority to the following sums : — Latin, 5s. ; writing and 
arithmetic, 2s. 6d. ; English, 2s. The fees now chargeable are, 
English, 2s. 6d. ; writing, 8s. ; writing and arithmetic, including 
mensuration and geography, ds. 6d.; Latin or French, 5s. The 
average number attending the parish school is from 50 to 70. 
The annual salary of the parish schoolmaster is L.d4, 4s., and 
his perquisites are a dwelling-house, garden, and one acre and 
one rood of land in the village, with the Lamp Acre, near Colt* 
bridge, in St Cuthbert's parish, which has been feued to Mr 
Murray of Henderland for the following feu-duties per acre, viz. 
one boll wheat, one boll oats, and one boll barley. 

There has been, since the middle of the seventeenth century, 
a school at the village of Gogar. It is supported by subscriptions, 
which at present amount to L. 9 per annum. The school fees 
per quarter are, for English, 2s. 6d., and for English and arith- 
metic, 3s. The number of scholars averages about 40. Some 
years ago a school was opened at Stanhopemill, and last year ano- 
ther at Four-mile-end. These are taught by Dissenters, and 
have no support except the fees paid by the scholars. There is 
a thriving female school in the village of Corstorphine, and there 
are Sabbath schools both there and in Gogar. 

Library, — A parish library was collected in the village of Cor- 
storphine in 1838 by the present clergyman. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — In former times there was a box 

Sec last Statistical Account for origin of this narne^ 



CORSTORPHINE. 243 

kept by the session-clerk, and from time to time examined by the 
clergyman and elders, in which was deposited all the contributions 
of the parish, whether collected at the church door or by the dea- 
cons. The money contained in this box was primarily intended 
for the poor, but it was also applied to such ecclesiastical purposes 
as the session might approve of. In the beginning of 1646, for 
instance, about L.200 Scots ^as applied in repairing the church, 
and taking down the old parish church; and afterwards the damage 
done by Cromwell and his soldiers to the church seats and place 
of public repentance was remedied from this source. The amount 
contained in the box in November 1646, was L.208 Scots. 

A large additional parochial fund was afterwards obtained in 
the following manner : Marion Corstorphine, a foundling, who 
belonged to, and had been bred up from infancy in the parish, 
was servant to a gentleman of extensive property in the vicinity 
of Edinburgh. Her master, in July 1753, had, after having tied 
her hands and feet, beat her with a horse whip in a most bar- 
barous manner, to the great effusion of her blood, and he then 
placed her, stripped of clothing, in a dark cellar, where she was 
detained during the whole night, and no one allowed to come near 
her. On escaping from this savage treatment, she applied to Mr 
George Fordyce, the minister of Corstorphine, for protection and 
redress. He at once took up the case, and having threatened a 
criminal prosecution, the matter was speedily compromised by the 
master, who agreed to pay immediately L. 100 Sterling, which 
Mr Fordyce apportioned as follows, viz. L, 50 to Marion, L. 25 
to the poor of Corstorphine Parish, L. 10 to the poor of another 
parish where the outrage had been committed, and L. 15 to the 
Infirmary of Edinburgh; and afterwards to pay Marion L. 10 Ster- 
ling, yearly, until her marriage, and upon that occasion an addi- 
tional sum of L. 100 Sterling. 

This foundling, in return for the interest taken in her by the 
minister of Corstorphine, left her whole means to the poor of the 
parish, and, accordingly, on 14th December 1768, we find that 
the poor's funds amounted in value to L. 579, 8s. 4d. Sterling. 

The funds belonging to the poor at present are as follows, viz. 
1. Sum in bond to road trustees, I^ 250; 2. Legacy from the late 
A. Keith, Esq. L. 100 ; 3. Do. from the late Captain Charles 
Hope Watson, L. 100 ; total, L. 450r. 

The number of the poor in 1709 was only 5, and the amount 
paid for their maintenance monthly by the session was L. 4, 9s. 6d. 



244 EDINBURQUSHIRE. 

Scots. The number at present on the list of paupers is 38^ while 
the sum annually raised by assessment, collections, interest of the 
funds and other sources, amounted in 1888 to L. 299, 15s. Sterling. 
The bell of the church has the following inscription on it : — 
<< Sir James Forrester of Corstorphine gifted me to this kirk, an- 
no 1 577, and the heritors of Corstorphine renewed me anno 1728.*^ 
The weight of the old bell here referred to was 302 lbs., which 
the heritors sold for L. 136 Scots. The present bell weighs 384 
lbs., and the price of it, with the wheel and whole appendages, 
was L. 436 Scots. 

Fairs. — In 1661^ James Lord Forrester obtained an act of 
Parliament, authorizing four free fairs in the year to be held in 
the burgh of Corstorphine, ^^ as a fit place for ease of the leidges, 
and for selling of horses, nolt, sheip, bestial, and other goods and 
merchandize." The days fixed were as follows ; 1. on the first 
Tuesday after Easter; 2. on 24th July; 3. on 26th August; and 
4. on 20th October. 

None of these fairs are now held ; but there are two holidays 
in summer, which have succeeded them, — the one is held on the 
first Tuesday of June, and is called Corstorphine Fair. The 
other is the Carters' Play, and is held on the third Friday of June. 

MiSCKLLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. 

No parish has undergone more frequent and complete changes 
on its surface than Corstorphine. Notwithstanding its proximity 
to Edinburgh, which ought to have secured its improvement at an 
early period, it is only in comparatively recent times that it has 
been brought generally into cultivation. 

From the substratum of the western meadow, which consists of 
live moss, composed of decayed trees, it is evident that this part 
of the parisli was at one time overgrown with wood. This may 
have been the case at the time the Romans were in Britain, for 
the whole of this part of the country is described by Tacitus as 
abounding in forests ; but, at all events, this was the early state of 
the western meadow, and probably also of other parts of the parish. 

When by accident or otherwise these trees were destroyed, the 
meadow would in the course of nature become a bog or mire, and 
water would collect and cover its surface during the rainy season 
of the year. We have abundant evidence that it was at one time 
in this condition, from the name Goyle Myrey by which it is still 
known. 

The castle of the Forresters, which was situated between the 



CORSTOBPHINE. 245 

meadows, was surrounded by a moat and ditch full of water. The 
unsettled state of the country in the earlier periods of Scottish 
history would naturally lead them to increase the quantity of water 
which existed in the meadows as a means of defence, and it is not 
improbable that they admitted this additional supply from the 
Gogar-burn, at least, the appearance of the lochs in Bleaw's Map 
of Lothian would lead to this conclusion. 

In the narratives of the marches of Leslie and Cromwell in 
1650, the meadows and the fields at Gogar are described as full 
of bogs and marshes. The lochs had been drained before that pe- 
riod, but it is not known when this drainage took place. Refe- 
rence is made to it in an application which James Lord Forres- 
ter presented to Parliament in July 1661,* where he complains 
that ^^ the whole meadow ground and low-lying lands was undone 
by the overflowing of the Gogar-burne, and that partly through 
the neglect of those who formerly were accustomed to cast and 
keep clear the ditches and stanks through which the water did na- 
turally pass, and partly by the inbreaking of the said water in the 
lands of Redhewes." 

Part of the ground formerly occupied by the lochs became a 
common, which was not divided until the middle of the last cen- 
tury, and then, and for many years afterwards, the whole meadows 
produced only natural grass, which was partly pastured by the vil- 
lagers, and the rest let to tenants, who sold the grass for the 
dairies of Edinburgh. 

In a MS. map of Mid-Lothian, by John Adair, in the Advo- 
cates' Library, dated 1684, the meadows are represented as com- 
pletely covered by water, from which it would appear that irriga- 
tion was then used, as it is not likely that they would have been 
drawn in this manner by a surveyor of so great experience and ac^ 
curacy, had the flooding been merely accidental, and occasioned 
by heavy rains. 

About fifty or sixty years ago, the meadows were for the first 
time ploughed, and since that time they have been always under 
tillage, although the crops have been frequently destroyed by the 
autumnal floods. This happened in the western meadow, so late- 
ly as 1836, when about 20 acres of green crop in the Goyle My re 
were covered for some weeks with water and waterfowl, and not a 
vestige of them remained after the water subsided* This and si- 
milar disappointments led the farmers to attempt to efiect a more 
complete drainage of the meadows, by widening, straightenmg, 

* Thomson^s Acts, VoL rii. 



246 EDINBURGUSIUUE. 

and deepening the centre stank ; and this operation, which cost 
about L. 150, was performed in the spring of 1837, and has Ailly 
answered its intention, for no water has since lain on that meadow. 
In consequence of this improvement, the produce of the parish 
must be greatly increased since the time when the last Account 
was prepared, and it is expected that a similar improvement will 
be made in the drains of the eastern meadow, after the leases of 
the farms there, which are now nearly expired, have been renewed. 

October 1839. 



PARISH OF INVERESK. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. LESLIE MOODIE, D.D. MINISTER.* 
THE REV. J. G. BEVERIDGE, Assistant and Successor. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — The situation of the church and village of Inveresk, 
nearthe confluence of the river Esk with the Frith of Forth, in- 
dicates the origin of the name of this parish, ancientlywritten In- 
neraskj Enderask, and Undreske. If we adopt the common ac- 
ceptation of the Gaelic words Inver and uisffe or uisk^ the name 
Inveresk signifies the mouth of the river. The same appellation 
in a different language seems once to have been affixed to MusseU 
burgh, now the chief town in the parish, which is mentioned in 
history, as the Eske muthe of the Northumbrian Saxons : its mo- 
dern name it derives from an extensive mussel bank which stretches 
out into the sea in its immediate vicinity. In ancient charters it 
is almost uniformly written Muschelburg. 

Extent and Boundaries. — This parish, lying on the south shore 
of the Frith of Forth, at the bottom of a considerable bay, is of a 
semicircular form, about 3 miles in length, and 2^ in breadth. It 
is bounded on the east, by the parishes of Prestonpans and Tranent; 
on the south, by Cranston and Dalkeith ; and on the west, by 
Newton, Liberton, and Duddingstone. 

Topographical Appearance. — With the exception of a ridge of 

• The materials for this Account were partly collected by Dr Moodie ; The Account 
is dravn up by the Rev. J. G. Beveridge. 



INVERESK. 247 

inconsiderable elevation (about 540 feet above the level of the sea,) 
lying along the southern boundary of the parish, the general ap- 
pearance of the ground is flat, sloping towards the sea, but varied 
with occasional gentle and irregular undulations. On one of these, 
lying in the form of a crescent, with the concave side towards the 
south, and having the river flowing round its western base, stands 
the village of Inveresk, which, from its fine southern exposure, 
ornamental woods, elegant villas, and the extensive prospect it 
commands, has been justly celebrated as one of the most beauti- 
ful situations in Scotland.* The soil in the immediate^^vicini- 
ty of the village is chiefly of a light sandy nature, but highly 
productive. On the higher grounds a rich clay prevails, varied 
with black loam ; and along the sea shore stretch extensive downs, 
part of which has, of late years, been converted into a race-course. 
Almost the whole land in the parish is rich and fertile, and in a 
high state of cultivation, the fields being generally fenced with 
stone walls or thriving hedges. There is, comparatively, only a small 
part of it planted, but it is sheltered and adorned on the west by 
the extensive woods of Buccleuch Park, and those of New Hailes, 
and on the east by the rising plantations of Drummore. From 
the high ground to the south, a wide and varied prospect is ob- 
tained. Beyond the Frith of Forth are seen the hills of Fife and 
the Ochils, and on clear days, the distant summit of Benlomond 
in the Grampian range is visible. 

Meteorology^ 8fc. — The climate here is mild, the air is dry and 
salubrious; rather less than the medium quantity of rain falls 
throughout the year ; and, with the exception of cold easterly winds 
in spring, the temperature is such as well entitles the village to the 
^ name anciently bestowed upon it — the Montpelier of Scotland. 
Snow never lies for any length of time, and frosts are much less 
intense than at higher elevations in the neighbourhood. A singu- 
lar instance of the power of attraction is frequently observed in 
summer. The clouds carried by a west wind along the Pentland 
hills are seen, on arriving at their eastern extremity, to diverge 
either to the south, passing along the ridge of Carberry, or to the 
north, emptying themselves into the waters of the Forth. The 
prevailing winds are from the south-west, east, and north-east. 
Easterly winds prevail chiefly in the spring months, and are almost 
uniformly accompanied with an unusual degree of cold. 

* Maitland, in his History of Edinburgh, calls it " the beautiful village of Inveresk, 
which from its situation, houses, and salubrity of sir, is justly reckoned the finest 
village, and most healthy place in Scotland.** — Fol. 1753, p. 504. 



248 



EDINBURGHSHIRE. 



The following Meteorological Tables are compiled from a daily 
register kept at Admiral Sir David Milne's, Inveresk. Lat. 
55° 56' 20", Long. 3° 2' 40" ; level above the sea at high- 
water-mark 70 feet; distance from sea 1 mile. 





Means 


Means 


Means 1 Means 




Rainy 
or 






Year 


of 
Bar. 


of 
Ther. 


of 
Ther. 


of 
Ther. 


Rain 
in 


Fair 

1 


Nights when 


1837. 


at 


at 


at 


during 


inches 


snowy 
days. 


days. 


Aurora seen. 




9 A. M. 


10 a.m. 


8 p.m. 


night. 








Jan. 


29.490 


35.225 


84. 


30.854 


1.666 


10 


21 




Feb. 


29.289 


39.571 


37.857 


33.585 


2.111 


13 


15 


■ 


March 


29.467 


35.985 


32.488 28.161 


1.666 


11 


20 




April 


29.195 


40.266 


86.266 32.400 


2333 


15 


15 




May 


29.878 


50.290 


45.483 


41.741 


1.444 


14 


17 




June 


29 854 


57.266 


54.8 


47.800 


2.5 


12 


18 




July 


29.965 


61.a32 


58.677 


52.483 


4.338 


17 


14 




Aug. 


29.69& 


57.580 


55.064 


49.387 


4.111 


12 


19 




Sept. 


29.743 


53.733 


49.8 


45.8 


1.166 


9 


21 


2:}d and 30th. 


Oct. 


29.780 


52. 


48.645 


44.090 


2.883 


12 


19 


6th, 18th, 28d. 


Nov. 


29.500 


40. 


38.183 


83. 


1.75 


14 


16 


5th and 12th. 


Dec 


29.724 


40.225 


39.908 


36.082 


2. 


14 


17 


1st. 


For 


29.481' 46.921 


i 44.217 


39.448 


27.416 153 


212 


8 nights. 


year. 


(Avg.)(Avg.y(Avg.) 


(Avg.)'CSum.)'(Sum.)'(Sum.) 





GENERAL REMARKS. 

Barometer; at 9 a. m. highest on 1st January, 30.57. Wind, N. W. At 9 a. m. 
lowest 2d November, 28.45. Wind, S. W. 

Thermometer, at 10 a. m. highest 23d June, 68^ Wind, S.W. At 10 a. m. was 
lowest 14th March, 35^ Wind, W.S.W. 

Thermometer, at 8 p. m. highest 23d June, 66". Wind, S.W. At 8 p. m. lowest 
1 1th January, 16*. W ind, S. W. 

Hottest month was July ; coldest, March. Wettest month, July ; dryest, Sept, 



Year 

1838. 



Jan. 

Feb. 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

Aug. 

Sept. 

Oct. 

Nov. 

Dec. 



For 
year. 

Deg. 
frcez. 

Deg. 
freoz. 



Bar. 
at 9 

A. M. 



Ther. Ther. 



at 10 

A. M. 



29.87 

29.568 

29.583 

29.624 

29.846 

29.67 

29.755 

29.612 

29.823 

29.713 

29.3>t7 

29.799 



29.684 

(Avg.) 

below / 

point 3 

above ) 

point I 



29.967 

27.071 

40.064 

44.a38 

49.258 

54.866 

58.354 

57.096 

5a7 

47.096 

38.633 

89.822 



45.021 
(Avg. 

265 
5082 



at 8 

p. M. 



Ther. 

least 

in 

night. 



Ther. 

highest 

in 

day. 



28.806 

26.428 

86645 

37.366 

44.580t 

52.3 

56.387 

55.483 

51.266 

45.225 

37.266 

39.258 



42.584 
)(Avg.) 

856 

4298 



25.161 

21.785 

81.741 

84.1 

38.082 

47.4 

51.451 

50.258 

46.5 

40.908 

38.533 

85.677 



38.045 
^Avg.) 

708 
2756 



38.677 

84.857 

45.741 

50.233 

55.887 

58.933 

63.822 

62.580 

58.166 

52.929 

42.9 

45.645 



50. 

(Avg.) 

65 



6745 



Rain 

in 

inches. 



.666 
.222 

2. 

1.5 

2.888 

4.5 

1.944 

2.388 

8.777 

2. 

2.666 
.5 



Fair 
and 
dry 

days. 



364 24.551 
(total) 



16 
18 
18 
18 
19 
11 
16 
18 
16 
19 
16 
22 



207 
(totl.) 



Snow 

and 

rainy 

days 



15 
10 
13 
12 
12 
19 
15 
13 
14 
12 
14 
9 



158 

Ctotl.) 



Nights on which 
Aurora seen. 



16th. 



18,15,19,27,28. 
14. 



7 nights 
(total.) 



GENEUAL SUMMARY. 
Barometer, at 9 4. m. was highest on the 3d Oct. 30.57. Wind, N.E. Was lowest 
on the 29th Nov. 27.70. Wind, S. 



INVEllESK. 249 

Thermometer, at 10 a. m. was highest on the 6th July, 67**. Wind, N. Was 
lowest on the 20th January, 12°. Wind S.S. W. 

Thermometer, at 8 p. m. was highest on the 1 1th July, 64". Wind, S.W. Was 
lowest on the 20th January, 9°. Wind, S.S.W. 

Thermometer, in night, was highest on the 11th July, 59®. Was lowest on the 
15th February, 5*. 

Thermometer, in day, was highest on the 8th May, 78°. Wind, N.W. Was 
lowest on the 20th January, 20°. Wind, S. S. W. 

February was the coldest and dryest month ; June the* wettest ; July the hottest. 

January 20th was the coldest day, therm. 14°. Wind, S.S.W. 

July 11th was the hottest day, therm. 63°. Wind, S.W. 

Mean temperature of year, lliermometer, 44.204°. 

Wind was betwixt north and west, 101 days ; betwixt west and south, 132 days ; 
betwixt south and east, 49 days ; betwixt east and north, 83 days. 

Diseases. — It must be confessed, that, although upon the whole 
the district is healthy, epidemics and contagious diseases occasion- 
ally prevail with considerable severity, especially typhus and scarlet 
fever. We must, however, look for the cause of this not so much 
in any peculiar insalubrity of climate, as in the crowded, ill venti- 
lated dwellings, and the filthy habits and insufficient diet of a great 
part of the lower orders. Of late years influenza has occasionally 
been common. When Asiatic cholera visited this country in 1832, 
Musselburgh and Fisherrow suffered from that mysterious scourge 
as severely in proportion to their size as any towns in the kingdom. 
The greatest number of deaths in one day was 18; and from the 
19th January, the date of the first case, to the 19th March, the 
number of deaths was 282, whilst the average yearly mortality of 
the whole parish is only 176 ; so that in that short space the num- 
ber of deaths exceeded the average annual mortality by 106. * 
Abundant proof, however, is furnished of the favourable nature 
of the climate by the fact, that a large proportion of the inhabi- 
tants attain to an advanced age. There are not a few who have 
numbered upwards of fourscore years; and there is one individual 
still in the enjoyment of comparatively good health, who is in her 
ninety-eighth year. Pulmonary consumption is uncommonly rare. 

Hydrography, — Springs of water abound throughout the parish, 
but none of them are of a medicinal nature. The average depth 
of wells is 15 feet. The water is abundant, and of excellent qua- 
lity. The only river is the Esk, containing the united waters of 
the North and South Esks, the former rising from the Pentland, 
the latter from the Morfit hills. The two streams meet in 
Dalkeith Park, near the south-west boundary of this parish, and 
the river thenceforth flowing in a north-easterly direction, with a 
beautifully winding course, falls into the sea a short distance be- 
low Musselburgh. The quantity of water in this stream has been 

* The total number of deaths in 1832 was 553. 



250 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

considerably diminished, in consequence of the erection of a reser- 
voir in the Pentland Hills, for supplying the capital with- water* 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The geological features of this pa- 
rish present no great variety of character. The rocks belong ex- 
clusively to the stratified or sedimentary class, that is to say, they 
have been all formed at the bottom of a deep ocean, by the depo- 
sit of various substances mechanically suspended in the waters. 
There are in the parish no Plutonian rocks, such as greenstone, ba- 
salt, or porphyry. The sedimentary formations in this parish 
consist exclusively of strata more or less thick, of sand, clay, lime- 
stone, and coal. They form part of a large deposit, which ex- 
tends through the greater part of the Lothians, and which has 
been termed the great coal basin of the Lothians. It has been 
ascertained by geologists, that this coal basin must have been de- 
posited at a period in the history of the globe anterior to the de- 
position of the strata forming the Durham and Newcastle coal- 
field, inasmuch as the latter are found to lie a long way above the 
strata in the valley of the Tweed, which can be proved to be con- 
temporaneous with the Lothian deposits. 

Coal appears to have been worked in this parish at a very early 
period. There is still extant a tunnel, which runs under Eskgrovo 
House, through which a part of the river Esk had at an ancient 
period been conducted to drive a wheel at Pinkie, used for drain- 
ing the coal seams there.* The expense, labour, and difficulty of 
making the tunnel must have been very great. It was begun in 
November 1742, and finished in May 1744. The north entrance 
to it is built up, and may be seen in the plantation within which 
Eskgrove House stands. The south entrance to it has not been 
traced. 

The old sea-cliff which runs along the south shore of the Frith 
of Forth traverses this parish. The village and church of Inver- 
esk stand on it. The upper level of it is about 80 feet above the 
sea, the base about 65 feet The teeth, scales, and bones of large 
sauroidal fish have been found in the shale and coal seams at 

* This extraordinary aqueduct was constructed by William Adam, architect, of 
Edinburgh. That gentleman erected a coal- work at Pinkie in 1739, out of which 
he extracted the water by a horse-machine. This was, however, found to be ineffi- 
cient ; and he determined to cut an aqueduct through the hill on which Inreresk 
stands. Preparatory to this great undertaking, he cut a canal from the Esk to the 
foot of Inveresk hill, above a mile in length. Coming here on a bed of sand, it became 
necessary to sink two shafts, one at each extremity of his intended aqueduct, to the 
depth of 50 feet. He then began his duct through the rock. Between these shafts 
the aqueduct is Dearly 800 feet in length, 4 feet in width, and G in height; and about 
100 feet below the surface of the hill on which the village is situated. 



1NVERESK. 251 

New Craighall; and shells of a mussel shape are also met with in the 
shale at Cowpits, Pinkie^burn, &c. It is matter of dispute whether 
these lived in fresh or salt water. All, however, are agreed, that 
they are now in the position where they lived and died. Now 
this bed of mussel-shell extends for several miles, showing neces- 
sarily a considerable extent of water. This is farther proved by 
the occurrence of fishes' teeth found at Craighall and neighbour- 
ing collieries ; and similar proofs exist in every part of the Lo- 
thians, that the strata composing them were deposited in the man- 
ner already stated, namely, at the bottom of a great lake or sea, 
into which were transported trees, plants, vegetables of all kinds, 
in great abundance. Great numbers of fossil ferns and coniferous 
trees have been found at all the collieries.* 

Several quarries of freestone are wrought within the parish. 
Limestone also exists in abundance, although not wrought to any 
extent at present, as a plentiful supply can be had at Cousland, 
formerly a part of this parish, but now annexed to the adjoining 
parish of Cranston. The most interesting and valuable of the 
strata are the coal seams. On each side of the Esk, which bi- 
sects the parish from south to north, the ground rises with a gentle 
inclination from the river. The coal strata have the same incli- 
nation. The under coal extends from the river westward about 
two miles and a half, and eastward about three miles and a half 
to its* surface edges. Northward the coal-field crosses the Frith 
of Forth, and southward extends about twenty miles along the 
course of the rivers. This coal-field, which contains forty beds 
of coal (of which the thickest is 9 and the thinnest 2^ feet in 
thickness) is supposed to have more coal in a section of its centre 
than any other coal-field in the island. The coal-mines at present 
wrought in this parish are the three upper beds of this formation. 
Their respective thicknesses are 3, 4^, and 4 feet. The average 
distance from the surface to the first of the beds is from 9 to 12 
fathoms. The depth of the deepest pit is 56 fathoms. Foul air 
occasionally causes inconvenience to the miners, but never to such 
extent as to require the use of the safety-lamp. It prevails most 
in south winds. The principal collieries are at New Craighall, 
Monktonhall, and Edmonstone. Formerly there were collieries at 
Pinkie-burn, Midfield, and Cowpits, but they have of late years 
been abandoned. At the pit at New Craighall there is erected, 

• See Memoir in the Trans. Roy. Soc. Vol. xiv. Part I., by D. Milne, Esq. to 
whom the compiler is indebted for the above observations on the geology of this 
parish. 



252 



EDINBURGHSHIRE. 



for clearing the mines of water, the largest steam-engine of which 
this country can boast. It was constructed by Claud Girdwood 
and Co., Glasgow, at an expense of upwards of L.6000, exclusive 
of sinking the pit, &c. It is of 140 horse power, can work thirteen 
strokes per minute, and deliver in that time 889.779 ale gallons. 
A description of it is to be found in a treatise by Mr John Milne, 
teacher of architectural and mechanical drawing, Edinburgh, en- 
titled A Practical View of the Steam Engine, illustrated by En- 
gravings of the largest Engine in Scotland. 

Zoology. — There is little worthy of remark in the zoology of 
the parish. The animals found here are such as are common over 
the lowlands. There is no peculiar species of cattle bred. The 
kinds of fish ordinarily caught in the Frith of Forth are the had- 
dock, cod, flounder, and whiting. Mackerel and sole are also oc- 
casionally got ; the latter, it is believed, might be found in much 
greater plenty were proper tackle to be employed. Salmon are 
also caught in small quantities at the mouth of the Esk. 

Botany. — The banks of the Esk furnish a rich field for the bo- 
tanist. The following list comprises most of the plants found in 
the parish. 

Galanthus nivalis, rare 
Galeopsis LadanunOf rare 
Galium Aparine, common 
w«.«*«»^.<« cruciatimi) common 
»«i>«M>.^»w verum, common 
Geranium moUe, common 

pusillum, very rare 
robertianum, common 
sanguineum, less common 
Geum rivale, common 
fim,m,,»»m UTbanumy common 



Achillaea Millefolium, common 
Affrostemma Githago, less common 
Ajuga reptans, common 
Alchemilla arvensis, common 
vulgaris, common 



»^»W^PlffW<W» 



Allium ursinum, common 
Althaea oflScinalis 
Anagallis arvensis, common 
Anthriscus vulgaris, common 
Arctium Lappa, common 
Ballota nigra, less common 
Bellis perennis, common 
Campanula latifolia, less common 
»>.»M>.^.>^»— >- rapunculoides, rare 
m0m>0m-0-m,»*0mtm0m, rotundlfolia, commoH 
Capsella Bursa^Pastoris, common 
Cardamine pratensU, common 
Carduus acanthoidcs, common 
....-.»«■„>., tenuiflorus, less common 
Car ex arcnaria, common 
Centaurea nigra, common 
Cbenopodium albunu common 
Chrysanthemum Leucanthemum, com. 
Conium maculatum, common 
Crataegus Oxyacantha, common 
Cytisus Scoparius, common 
Dactylis glomerata, common 
Digitalis purpurea, common 
Echium vulgare, common 
Equisetam arvense, common 
Euphrasia officinalis, common 
Fragaria vesca, common 
Fumaria officiaalis, common 



mmmmt ly »K^> II »ii^wi> 



#tfW*W««»«M«M<MWfk 



Glechoma hederacea, common 
Hedera Helix, common 
Hippuris vulgaris, less common 
Holcus lanatus, common 
Hydrocharis Morsus Ranae 
Juncus congloraeratus, common 
Lamium album, common 
,w*»m**^mm,»,»» purpureum, common 
Lathyrus pratensis, common 
Leontodon Taraxacum, common 
Lolium perenne, common 
Lotus corniculatus, common 
»f0mm.,0^ major, common 
I^ychnis dioica, common 
wmM,,mmm00m^ vcspcrtina, common 
*»0n,»^mm» Flos Cuculi, common 
Lycopodium cfavatum, less common 
Lycopsis arvensis, common 
Lythrum salicaria, rare 
Malva sylvestris, conunon 
Mentha arvensis, common 
Myosotis arvensis, common 



INVERESK. 



253 



Myrrhis odortita, less common 
Ononis arvensis, common 
Orchis maculatai common 
«,».*««—»»»■ mascula, common 
Orobus tuberosus, common 
Oxalis Acetosella, common 
Papaver Rbaias, common 
Petasites vulgaris, common 
Phalaris arundlnacea, common 
Phleum pratense, common 
Plantago coroDopus, less common 
.^Kw^^w.— >■ lanceolata, common 
<»WM>«»»»<>»»» major, common 
Potendlla reptans, rare 
Primula veris, common 
».»^*»i>.»— vulgaris, common 
Ranunculus acris, common 

bulbosus, less common 
Flammula, common 



w ^0i0<0f^im^»^^<^^im0mfm 



VWV^VwMMMMiWMPWWm 



Sedum acre, common 
Senecio JacolMca, common 

„,.... ,» vulgaris common 

Silene inflata, common 
Sinapis arvensis, common 
Solanum Dulcamara, less common 
Sonchus oleraceus, common 
Stachys arvensis, less common 
Stelliuria graminea, less common 
.ww»^.w»«w»^ holostea, common 
..I...I.WW.W nemorum, rare 
Tanacetum vulgare, less common 
Thymus Serpyllum, common 
Tormentilla officinalis, common 

Trifolium arvense, less common 
filiforme, common 
medium) common 
Tussilago Farfara, common 
Ulex EuropiBus, common 
Urtica dioica, common 
«M «.»»»»»» urens, common 
Veronica Chamsdrys, common 
>.»>»,>—».»»«. hederifulia, common 
Vicia sativa, less common 
Viola canina, common 
tricolor, common 



«(M^^«l^^#WMM«MrM 



■Vtf^Mff^MMPWMfVWWk 



0*mm^9m0m 



Raphanus Raphanistrum, common 
Reseda Luteola, common 
Rinanthus Crista- Galli, common 
Rosa Canina, common 
Rubus id£eus, less common 
Rumex acetosa, common 
»>—»■»»■.«.» Acetosella, common 
Sambucus nigra, less common 
Scrophularia nodosa, common 

The Messrs Handasyde have long enjoyed a high reputation as 
florists. Their collection of Dahlias, for choice varieties of which 
they have repeatedly obtained prizes from the Edinburgh Horti- 
cultural Society, has for some years past outrivalled those of all 
competitors ; and it may serve to show the spirit and enterprise 
with which they engage in the cultivation of flowers, to state the 
fact, that, a few years ago, they obtained possession of the only 
specimen of the white Verbena then in Great. Britain, at a cost of 
not less than fifty guineas. 

The trees which appear best* adapted to the soil are the ash, 
oak, elm, plane, beech, and other deciduous kinds. Compara- 
tively few of the pine tribe have been planted. The Acacia, of 
which there are a considerable number, seems to thrive well. It 
may be proper here to state, that, at the east entrance to Buc- 
cleuch Park, by Smeaton Gate, there are seven magnificent ce- 
dars of Lebanon, remarkable not less for their great size, than for 
the graceful symmetry of their shape. 

IL — Civil Histoey.* 

Musselburgh was a burgh 

When Edinburgh was nane, 
And Musselburgh will be a burgh 

When Edinburgh is gane,^~Local Traditional Rhyme. 

History has not informed us what particular name was given to 

* For the account of the Civil History and Antiquities of this parish the compiler 
is indebted to D. M. Moir, Esq. 



254 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ibis district of the province of Valentia, but the discoveries of con- 
secutive ages have demonstrated the existence, not only of a Ro* 
man fort and station, but of a civil jcolony of that people in this 
parish. Driving out the Ottadini and the Gadeni, the British 
tribes, that had possessed the shire for a thousand years, the 
Romans took possession of the land, towards the end of the first 
century, and retained it for nearly four centuries. The only traces 
of the aboriginal inhabitants, in the names still existing in the lo- 
cality, are to be found in Eshj and Carberry (Caerharrin).^ 

When the Romans abdicated the possession of this district, they 
were sucoeeded by the Anglo-Saxons from Northumberland ; and 
their seat of population here was designated by the name of £«A- 
muthe* These again were displaced by the Scoto-Irish from the 
west ; and, by them, the present name of Inveresk was substituted. 
Without reverting to the British, the Roman, or even the Saxon 
inhabitants, we are thepefore carried back by the Gaelic affix In* 
ver to those remote Celtic times, ere yet the Crown of Scotland 
submitted to lineal succession in the issue of Malcolm Canmore. 

Musselburgh^ the town of the district, is also of very considera- 
ble antiquity, and is mentioned in our national chronicles 800 years 
back. The Anglo-Saxon word Burgh probably fixes its origin 
upon that people. 

Of the original British, who inhabited the district, no traces, as 
we have just said, are now discoverable, save in the names still at- 
tached to one or two places within the parish ; but the Romans 
have left many momiments of their presence, fn bridge, harbour, 
road, and encampment; in altar, bath, and sepulchre. 

Repeated excavations, and casual exposure of ruins, from age 
to age, prove the existence of Inveresk, not only as a Roman mi- 
litary station, but as a Colonia Romana^ or Munidpium, The 
whole northern slope of the hill, bounded by Pinkie-burn on the 
one side, and by the river Esk on the other, appears to have been 
covered over with buildings ; and many circumstances concur in 
assuring us, that the site was one of importance. . Even the spot 
where the Praetorium was built, can be distinctly ascertained to 
have been the apex of the hill, where the church now stands, — its 
fosse, which was visible within' the last fifty years, comprehending 
also the villa to the eastward, now known as Inveresk House. 

In 1 547, a cave and altar were discovered here, and a descrip- 

* Til the vicinity, however, we have tlic British Cuckpcn, Dreghorii, Dalkeith, 
Nidref (Niddry,) Jloslin, &c. 

4 



INVERESK* 255 

tion of them, as seen by Randolph, the English resident at the 
Scottish Court, was transmitted by him to Sir Robert Cecil, af- 
terwards the famous Lord Burleigh, the minister of Queen Eliza* 
beth. The two letters containing this have been since very pro- 
perly preserved in the second volume of the Transactions of the 
Scottish Antiquarian Society ; and in the ^^ Britannia" of Cam- 
den, which was published not long after this period, we find the 
circumstance thus alluded to. 

" A little beyond this (Seton,) the river Eske empties itself 
into the Frith, after running by Borthwick^ which has barons of its 
own name of Hungarian extraction, by Newbottle q. d. New Builds 
inff, anciently a little monastery, now the barony of Mark Kerr, 
by Dalkeith^ lately the pleasant seats of the Earls of Morton, and 
Musselborawy below which, a. d. 1547, when Edward Seymour, 
Duke of Somerset, entered Scotland with a regular army to claim 
the performance of the treaty by which Mary Queen of Scotland 
was engaged to Edward VI. of England, the day proved fatal to 
the youth of the most noble families of Scotland who there fell in 
battle. I cannot here pass over that inscription, which the learn- 
ed J. Napier, in his Commentary on the Apocalypse, mentions to 
have been dug up here, and of which the eminent Sir Peter Young, 
tutor to King James VI., made this more accurate copy : 

APOLLINI 

GRANNO 

Q. LVSIVS 

SAfilNIA 

NVS 

PROG 

AVG 

V. S S L V M. 

Who this Apollo Graunus was, and whence he had this name, 
none of the Society of Antiquaries, that I know of, has yet inform- 
ed us. K I may be allowed to interpose my inferior judgment, I 
should suppose Apollo, called Grannus by the Romans, was the 
saitie whom the Greeks called AiroKXujv Axe^<rexo^ii^, or the long- 
haired; for Isidore calls the long locks of the Goths Granni. But 
this by way of digression."* 

The reference alluded to, by the great Napier of Merchiston, 
is in these words: '* In every part of that empire (the Roman,) 
are there infinite of these temples, idols, and other monuments 

• See Cough's Camden's Britannia, Vol. iii. p. 303-4. 



256 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

erected, and even at Musselburgh, among ourselves in Scotland, 
a foundation of a Roman monument lately found, (now utterlie 
demolished,) bearing this inscription dedicatory, Apollini Granno,** 
&c* 

A second discovery, not less striking, was made in 1783^ during 
the carrying forward of some garden improvements, in the imme- 
diate vicinity of Inveresk House. In removing the soil to the depth 
of three or four feet, the floors and foundations of various build- 
ings were exposed ; and Dr Carlyle, then the incumbent of the 
parish, — a man admirably qualified from his classical zeal and at- 
tainments, — took superintendence of the operations. His account, 
which is clear and succinct, is given in the former Statistical Ac^ 
count; and we have another equally accurate, satisfactory, and fully 
more comprehensive, by James Wedderburne, Esq. of Inveresk, 
in a letter to the well-known antiquary, Mr Adam Cardonnel, of 
the Custom-House. 

A Roman bath of two rooms was then traced. The smaller 
was 9 feet by 4^; the larger 15 by 9; and between these was an 
earthen pipe for the conveyance of water. The floors were co- 
vered with tarras two inches thick, uniformly laid on ; and beneath 
this, were first coarse lime, then gravel, and, lastly, rough unhewn 
flags. The floor was supported on pillars two feet high, some of 
which were of stone, and others of circular bricks. It appeared, 
that the floor of the smaller room had been intended to bear a 
greater heat, — a coarse tarras, ten inches in thickness, being laid 
under the upper layer. The degree of heat used seemed to have 

* Plaine Discoverie, &c. p. 210. Ediii. 1593, 4to. Mr Gough, in his additions 
to Camden, makes the following learned remarks on this curious, but somewhat ob- 
scure subject. 

In illustration of the inscription said to be found at Musselburgh, AKfl^rtao/^vc of 
the Greeks is an epithet given to ApoUo by Homer, IL T. 39 Hym. in ApoL L 
134. Macrob. i. 17. He had long flowing locks, for which the Latin poets also ce- 
lebrate him. But the Granui of the Gauls, which I cannot And in Isidore, were 
curls at the end of those locks, such as Salmasius, Exercit. Plin. 536-763, says the 
Latins called crittet concinnatif 

Capillos inficitis oculos fuligine relinctis, 
Le?atis comulas, grannulatini fronte depictis. 

Comrnodian. Imiruct. 60. 

In favour of the derivation from granuni it may be added, that in Judith x. 3, the 
old Latin has it comam ditcriminavU^ i. e. granuin fecilt &c. 

Breval gives the following inscription in the Duke of VVertembcrg's cabinet at 
Stutgard : 

In honorem O. D. Apollini Granico Julius Victorinus Prefectus ararii pro filio 
suo Lepido. V. S. L. L. M. 

When amplified Uie Musselburgh inscription seems to be — 

Apollini Granico, Quintus Lucius Sabinianus, Proconsul Augustl, votum suscep- 
tum solvit, lubens merito. 

Hermias also wrote of Apollo under this name. Vide Stepban. art. A/uafovic. 



INVERESK. 257 

been occasionally so great, that the pillars were injured by it. A 
quantity of charcoal was discovered on the spot in perfect preser- 
vation.* 

Writing in April 1783, Mr Wedderburn says, " A bowling- 
green westward (from Inveresk House) was made some years ago, 
and floors of the same kind found on levelling the ground. A tree 
being dug up just now, still farther westward by the summer-house, 
discovered large fragments of earthen-ware. 

^* In the road up the hill to the church I have found bricks, 
being lately dug up to make new steps ; and in the church itself 
(St Michael's, since demolished,) some of the Roman bricks are 
built in with the stone. The vaults found in making the road 
were like subterraneous passages only. There has evidently been 
a space of 100 yards long, reaching from the wall of the court to 
the end of the bowling-green, and 23 feet wide, covered with their 
baths, as appears by their water-tight floors, &c. and very proba- 
bly their buildings, 300 yards at least, as appears by their bricks, 
earthen-ware, 8cc found from the road to the church. 

^^ I am informed by the ploughmen, that there are pavements 
all along the whole rid^e to Pinkie- burn, which resist the plough, 
and corn will not grow on it in dry seasons. From all circum- 
stances, Inveresk hill appears to have been a great station." 

After describing the bricks, many of which had been built into 
the walls of St MichaeVs church, and which were fresh and round, 
as if made only months before ; the fragments of earthen- ware 
formed of red clay ; great numbers of clay pipes, each fifteen in- 
ches long, and smoked on the inside ; the cement used in the 
joints of the stones, and in the coarsest tarras, where the lime 
seems to have been used hot and imperfectly slaked, — Mr Wed- 
derburn says, ^' there are fragments of larger earthen vessels, of a 
fire-clay that stands the fire better than any clay at present known 
in England, Stourbridge not excepted. The potters say it is equal 
' to the black crucibles." 

About ten years ago, when the practice of interring at the depth 
of twelve or fourteen feet became common in Inveresk church- 
yard, the grave-diggers came upon a Roman urn, which they un- 
luckily broke to pieces. It was of terrd cottar strongly burnt, and 
glazed without and within, with a surmounting wreath, represent- 

* For a detailed account of this discoTery, the reader may consult original Statis- 
tical Account, Vol. xvi. p. 4 and 5, and Camden *s Britannia, with Gough*8 addi- 
tions. Vol. iii. fol. p. 310-12. NichoUs, London, 1789. 

EDINBURGH. R 



258 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ing alterDately flowers and figures. Part of the fragments are 
yet in the possession of Mr Ritchie, the sculptor here, who, on 
hearing of the circumstance, hastened immediately with his cha- 
racteristic artistical zeal to the spot, only to find, that the other 
portions had been again buried up amid the sand. 

All along the hill of Inveresk, Roman coins have from time to 
time been discovered, and at the laying open of the foundations 
of the Hippocausta in 1783, two medals were found amid the rub- 
bish. The one was of gold, and much defaced, supposed to be 
of Trajan ; the other of copper, with the inscription Diva Faustina^ 
and in perfect preservation. 

With the Romans all things were meant for durability ; they 
seemed to have waged war, however inefficiently, with Eclax Tern-- 
pus. In allusion to the mortar used in the Inveresk ruins, Mr 
Wedderbum says, '^ the mortar which has been applied to the 
outside of the end wall, by way of stucco, is smooth without cracks, 
and has no appearajfce of decay, but adheres well to the smooth 
surface of the stones. The workmen say it is equal to the best in 
common use, but is by no means comparable to that in the heart 
of tlie wall. The only circumstance remarkable is, that there is 
not the least mark of decay, though only from six to ten inches 
under the surface of the earth, which is a loose sandy soil, and 
therefore within reach of frosts, roots of vegetables, &c. The 
circumstance of considerable thickness given to the terrace floor, 
and the large pebbles and bits of brick in it, seems favourable to 
make it water-tight, for no crack can go further than the first bit 
of brick or pebble.'' 

The Shire-haugh, lying immediately below the village of Inver- 
esk, and extending south-west to the base of the hill on which the 
village of Monktonhall stands,* bore, until of late years, many 
strong traces of a Roman encampment, which seems to have ex- 
tended westward to the spot still called Camp-end, in the parish of 
Newton, on the turnpike road from Edinburgh to Dalkeith. From 
the Shire-haugh to the harbour of Fisberrow, there was a Roman 
way, partly remaining in the memory of several people not long 
dead. No vestiges, however, now remain. 

Of the two stone bridges over the £sk, between Musselburgh 
and Fisberrow, the upper is of remote antiquity ; and, alike from 

* The whole of this plain was once comprehended in the Shire-haugh, the rirer at 
that time flowing almost in a line from the mill to Montonhall. It has since bent 
eastward, and thrown the flat to the other side of the stream. 

3 



INVERESK. 269 

its structure, its position, and other corroborating circumstances, 
is in all probability Roman. It is in the direct line from the Prae- 
toriuni at Inveresk to the harbour of Fisherrow ; and, stretching 
from either side of it, were the remains of the causeway just men- 
tioned. It consists of three arches, each of which is fifty feet 
wide, with a spring of only ten feet; and, from several parts of 
the arches approaching almost to a straight line, Dr Carlyle sur- 
mises, that the frame or cover must have sunk during the time of 
building. From the approaches being at this day completely be- 
yond the reach of the tide, although the river is occasionally aflect- 
ed by the sea up to this place, it is evident, that, whatever changes 
may have occurred in the flowing of the Forth, as at Prestonpans 
on the^one side, and at Newhaven on the other, the coast is not 
materially changed along the boundaries of this parish. If the 
bridge evidences that the sea has not encroached upon the har- 
bour, it equally testifies that it has not receded from us. A circum- 
stance afterwards to be alluded to, in our sketch of the antiquities 
of the parish, is we think capable of solution on other grounds. 

Tradition also informs us, that, in digging the foundations of 
many houses in Fisherrow, ruins similar to those discovered at In- 
veresk have been repeatedly exposed ; and from this, as a corro- 
borating circumstance, it is made more probable, that, connected 
with the praetorium and military station here, a municipium, or 
colony of citizens, also peopled the neighbourhood. Traces of 
a Roman causeway, which extended from the harbour of Fisher- 
row to the camp at Sheriffhall, and thence to Borthwick, were in 
many places visible in the memory of man ; while another branch, 
extending westward to the south of Portobello, and thence into 
the parish of Currie, is still, at several points, in remarkable pre- 
servation. The fragment in the parish of Duddingston is well 
known locally, under the vulgarized name of " the Fishwives* 
Causeway."* 

It is a curious fact, that scarcely a Druidical monument remains 
within the limits of the Lothiims ; and Chalmers in his Caledonia 
remarks, that this circumstance plainly intimates the occurrence of 
some decidedly religious events during the obscure ages, imme- 
diately succeeding the abdication of the Roman power. In all pro- 

* When cutting the new line of road over the Calton-hill in 1817, a Roman urn 
was dug up entire. It was exactly of the same shape, pattern, and materials as the 
one broken in Inveresk churchyard since; and of which the fragments are in Mr 
Ritchie's possession. It was purchased by the late Mr Sivright, and was two or 
three years ago disposed of at the posthumous sale of that gentleman's effects. 



266 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

bability he is right in conjecturing, that the intrusion of a Pagan 
people among the Romanized Ottadini, along the southern shore 
of the Forth, during the fifth century, was the cause of destruction 
to the Druidical monuments in those districts.* 

Although the subject is invoWed in great obscurity, there is rea- 
son to believe, that Christianity was preached in East Lothian by 
Baldred,f a disciple of Kentigem, during the sixth century. That 
he then existed, established a religious house at Tyningham, and 
strove to evangelize the adjacent country, there can be no doubt. 

We learn from the venerable Bede, that there was a Saxon mo- 
nastery at Tyningham, dedicated to St Balther, (Smith's edition^ 
231-54,) and that its diocese ultimately comprehended the whole 
extent of East Lothian. We mention the circumstance here for the 
purpose of proving, that Musselburgh existed as a town in the 
seventh century, and was the western boundary of this bishoprick, as 
Simeon of Durham, in describing the country, has these words, 
"et tota terra quae pertinet ad monasterium Sancti Baltheriquodvo- 
catur Tyningimm, a Lambermore usque ad Eicemuth^^ (Inver- 
esk.) This diocese was afterwards known as that of Lindisfarn; 
and was extended over the three Lothians. 

At what time the church of St Michael of Inveresk was found- 
ed, we have no authentic data to prove ; but from the quantity of 
Roman bricks and other ruins used in its construction, it certainly 
laid claim to great antiquity. In 1020, when the Lothians were 
ceded to the King of Scotland, the Eclesia de Muskilburg came 
under the jurisdiction of the Bishop of St Andrews; and in 1176, 
we find from the ancient Taxation that it paid to that see a lai^ger 
assessment than any other church in Mid-Lothiun. j 

* Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 500-1. 

In the grounds of Sir David jM ilne*8 beautiful villa at Inveresk, a monument was 
dug iqi two or three years ago, which seems to bear strong marks of a Druidical ori- 
gin. It is a circular table of stone, covered with a composition of lime and gravely 
supported on freestone pillars. The interior was filled with the teeth of animals, and 
around it were migestic antlers of the deer. What could this be if not a Druidical 
Cromlech $ 

The whole have fortunately been preserved. 

t Keith says, that Baldred was a successor of Kentigem, and a confessor, and 
places his martyrdom on 6th March 608.— In the English Martyrology, it is stated 
to have occurred on 29th March (701.) Dempster in his Menologia Scotis agrees 
with Kdth ; and Simeon of Durham, Lib. ii. c. 2, assigns the same date to the 
event. 

X The passage is perhaps here worthy of transcription. Ecclesia de Muskilbuig, 70 
roercas; ditto de Cranstoun, 60 ; ditto de Creightoun, 30; ditto de Faulaw, 6 ; ditto 
de Looherwort, 40; ditto de Kerynton, 18; ditto de Kocpen, 20; ditto de Clerk- 
ington, 8 ; ditto de Maisterton, 4 ; ditto de Heriot, 90 ; ditto de Monte LaodonisB, 



INVERESK. 261 

From the Chartulary of Dunfermline, we find that David I. — 
the founder of Melrose, Dryburgh, and Holyrood — granted to the 
monks of that abbacy a baronial jurisdiction over the manor of In- 
veresk, the lands of Carbarrin (Carberry,) and Smithton (Smea- 
ton.) In this manorship of Inveresk were comprehended the town 
of Musselburgh, and its port of Fisherrow ; and it is worthy of re- 
mark, that the jurisdiction over these is termed the lordship and 
regality^ 

The collieries and quarries of Inveresk were worked perhaps as 
early as the rei^n of William the Lion ;* and it is ascertained that 
the monks of Newbottle raised coal at Prestongrange, in the im- 
mediate neighbourhood, even before the accession of Alexander 11. 
A charter is still extant, granted by Seyer D'Quincey, Lord of 
the Manor of Tranent, to these monks, for the working of coal ' 
and stone, carbonarium et quararium^ on their lands of Preston, 
westward to the rivulet of Pinkie^ consequently considerably with- 
in the boundaries of the present parish of Inveresk. This char- 
ter must have been signed between 1202 and 1218, as in the lat- 
ter year the grantor set sail for the Holy Land, where he died in 
1219, as we learn from Dugdale. Before the discovery of coal in 
the district, we find, from the Chartulary of Kelso, that Herbert, 
the abbot there, yielded to Reginald D^Bosco, for the yearly pay- 
ment of ten marks of silver, his whole land of Ester- Dodinestun, 
which is the western boundary of the parish of Inveresk, '* cum 
medietate petarie de Camerun" — that is to say, the right of dig- 
ging peats on the lands last mentioned. 

During, the eleventh century, a charter of Malcolm Canmore 
and his Queen Margaret, gifted the manor of Little Inveresk 
(that is Inveresk Proper) to the monks of Dunfermline; and this 
was confirmed by another of David L, who added to it the manor 
of great Inveresk, (that is Mussel burghshire,) comprehending the 
town, with its harbour, mills, fishings, and other pertinents, f 

* Chartulary of Newbottle, 72. 

f Among other i^nu is mentioned, '* omnes rectitudines de omnibus navibus, que 
in portu de Inveresk applicuerint.**— MS. Chart. 

Bnrgum et portum de Musselburgh cum omnibus libertatibus suis ; et Inveresk. 
Ibid. Monast. Scot. Vide also Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 749. 

" The Abbacy of Dunfermline,'* says Mathew of Westminster, ** could lodge three 
sovereign princes with all their retinue,** (Flor. Historian, p. 441, Kd. 1570.) lis 
riches must have been enormous. It was founded and endowed by Margaret, Queen 
of Malcolm Canmore, and there Turgot affirms were '* non pauca et solido ct puro 
auro VBsa, (Vita Margarit. Regin. Scot. Sect. 5.) David I. granted to it " a sixth of 
all the gold found in Fife and Fothriffe." (Chart, de Dunfermline.) It was a place 
of royal sepulture, and its ruins show its original vast extent. — Dalyell<s Frag. In- 
troduc. 



262 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Pope Gregory XL confirmed all these rights and jurisdictions by 
a Bull, dated 1234; and Robert IIL added to these all the new 
customs exigible within the bounds of the burgh. 

Nearly a century and a half, however, before this, Musselburgh 
must have been a place of some importance, as we find that it was 
here, on the 12th of October 1201, that the barons of Scotland 
assembled to swear fealty to the infant son of William the Lion.* 
In 1239, this young prince, afterwards Alexander II., granted a 
right of " libera forestas," or free forestry, over the lands of the 
district, to the same favoured abbacy.f 

From all these charters, the monks of Dunfermline enjoyed a 
baronial jurisdiction over the parish ; and their powers afterwards 
extended to those of a regality. The vicars of Musselburgh were 
appointed by the abbacy; and, in their day and generation, they 
were considered men of consequence, as their signatures, mingled 
with those of the magnates of the land, sufficiently testify. X 
A dispute which occurred early in the thirteenth century, — shortly 
after the charter of Alexander II., • — between the chiefs and their 
nominee, was referred to the Diocesan Bishop, whose dedreet was, 
that the latter should enjoy the small tithes and the offerings at 
the altars of Muscelburg, excepting the fish of every kind, and the 
tithes of the mills belonging to the monks, for which, as an equiva- 
lent, the vicar was to refulid ten merks annually. This decision un-* 
questionably shows, that other places of worship were already in ex- 
istence in the district, and that, in all probability, the shrines of 
** Mary Magdalene" on the one side, and of " Our Lady of Lo- 
retto** on the other, were rife with devotees.§ 

After a life of chivalry, heroism, and devotion to all the best 
interests of his native land, it was here that the renowned 
Randolph, Earl of Murray, the Regent of Scotland, died on the 
20th July 1332. In consequence of preparations by the English 
to invade Scotland, he had assembled an army, and advanced to 
Colbrandspath, on the frontier of Berwickshire, when news of a 
naval armament from the south obliged him to return homewards, 
and provide for the defence of the capital. The tradition of the 

* Chartulary of Melrose, 181. Lord Hailes's Annals, Vol. i. p. 151. 

t MS. Monast. Scoti», Chart. Newbottle, No. 127. 

i In Bagimont^s Roll, as its stood under James V., the vicarage of Musselburgh 
•was taxed at L.5, 6s. 8d. 

§ I1ie distinguished Dr Lee, one of the Chaplains for Scotland, and others, rernem* 
bcr ruins now covered by the sea at Magdalene Bridge, supposed to be those of the 
chape). We are inclined to think otherwise, and that these were only offices apper- 
taining to it« 



.J 



INVERliSK. . 263 

district says, that he had got the length of Walliford, on the east- 
ern confines of the parish, when intelligence was brought to the 
magistrates, that he was dangerously ill. They immediately took 
such measures as they best could to provide for his accoramoda- 
tion, and had him removed on a litter to the nearest house, with- 
in the '* east port" of the burgh. Relays of citizens are said to 
have watched over the great man until he died ;* and every luxu- 
ry that the place could supply is said to have been gratefully offer- 
ed by them. In gratitude for their kind attentions, his nephew 
and successor, the Earl of Marre, requested that they should make 
some request regarding the extension of their municipal privileges^ 
which he would be proud to be the means of extending. Where- 
upon they told him that " they wished nothing ; and were happy 
to have had an opportunity of doing what they considered their 

* The death of the great Randolph has formed a quettio vexata with the Scottish 
historians. That he died here and was buried at Dunfermline is indisputable ( Bo- 
wer*8 Continuat. of Fordun, Vol. ii. p. 300) ; it is the manner of his death which 
has afforded scope for controversy. Two of our best authorities, Hailes and Tytler^ 
are here at issue, — the former distinctly affirming, that, " amidst the excruciating 
pains of a confirmed stonci he ceased not to discharge the duties of his office with ac- 
tivity and vigilance, and expired on the march," {Annait of Scotland^ Vol. ii. p. 162) ; 
whereas the latter maintains, that he died suddenly, without any apparent cause, and 
not without the strongest suspicion of his having been poisoned, {History qfScotlandf 
Vol. ii. p. 10.) 

The two oldest, and therefore likely to be most authentic authorities are on the 
side of Mr Tytler. Barbour was born in 1316, and was fifteen years old when Ran« 
dolph died. In the Bruce, p. 423, we find, 

** Bot syne allace ! puwynt was he ; 
To see hisded6 was great pitie.** 

Winton was bom about 1350, so only eighteen years after the event ; and in his 
Chronicle it is said, 

Hym with venomous fell poyson 

Be destroyed, and fell treasoun, 

For at Wemyss be the se, 

Poytound at afest was he. — Vol. ii. p. 146. 

Fordun (a Heame, p. 1018,) simply mentions the death, without the circumstan- 
ces. His continuator. Bower, however, has this passagc-^speaking of the designs of 
the disinherited barons against the Regent, he says, " £t ideo novam artem confinz- 
erunt, et ut Italici ferunt, hello Tradimento, verius vili effecerunt, ut quidam frater 
Anglicus, religione corruptus, dicto ctutodi familtaris cajtellanva, sibi venenum in vino 
propinaret. Quod et factum est ut supra.'* Lib. xiv. c. 50. 

AH this is surely strong evidence, more especially as Lord Hailps seems to rest his 
scepticism principally on the authority of Hector Boece, a writer by his own admis- 
sion not a little given to romancing. Hector admits both the stone and the poison- 
ing ; but Lord Hailes thinks that he has also furnished circumstances sufficient for 
the confutation of the latter. " In calculum pnesentissima Habere remedia,** writes 
the old author regarding the supposed poisoner, *' nam eo morbo Ranulpus admo- 
dum vexatur.** 

Who can decide, when doctors such as these disagree ? If we admit the traditional 
story which we have given, we must give our verdict for Lord Hailes. It must have 
been a slow poison indeed, that, given at Wemyss, did not operate save at Mussel- 
burgh. The '^ tormina qucdam ventris** may have arisen from some indigestible 
condiment ; but we think it more probable that this great man died of the stone ra- 
ther than of the pretended doctor. 



264 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

duty." The Earl is reported to have here added, ** sure you are 
a set of very honest fellows.^' The request of adopting ^^ Ho- 
nesty'' as the motto of the burgh is said then to have been made, 
and it is retained to this day. Be this as it may, the Earl of Mar 
granted or obtained for the magistrates of Musselburgh the first 
charter, which conferred upon them a variety of local privileges, in 
1340. 



Excepting some ecclesiastical fragments, to be given under the 
head of Antiquities, we have little or nothing of the civil history of 
the district until L544, when the English army, under the Earl of 
Hertford, burned down a great part of the town, together with the 
town-house, and destroyed the celebrated ^' Chapelle of Lauret" 

Three years after this event, Musselburgh became the muster- 
ing place for the Scottish forces. News had arrived of the ap- 
proach of the Duke of Somerset to Newcastle, at the head of an 
army of 14,000 men, including 2000 horse. To oppose this well- 
appointed force, " the fiery cross" had been sent through the 
country, and, in an incredibly short time, not less than 36,000 
men had assembled within two miles of Inveresk, at Edmonston- 
Edge. The English army were at length drawn up on Falside 
Brae, — their right extending oVer the grounds of Walliford and 
Drummore towards the sea ; and, on reconnoitring the position of 
the Scotch, the Protector found it very strong, the steep banks of 
the Esk, then densely wooded, defending them in front ; the mo- 
rass of the Shirehaugh on the left ; and on the right, the village 
of Inveresk, the mounds in the churchyard, and the bridge, all of 
which were defended with cannon. 

On the morning of Friday the 9th of September, Lord Hume, 
with 1500 light horse, appeared on Edge-bucklin Brae, immediately 
beneath them, and rushed forward with such impetuosity, that So- 
merset, on perceiving their numbers, suspected that they were sup- 
ported by some much larger force, and gave strict orders to the 
men to preserve their ranks. Impatient of such provocation, how- 
ever. Lord Grey extorted leave to oppose them, and when within 
a stone's cast of the Scots, he charged them at full speed with 1000 
men-at-arms. The onset was terrible, but the demi-lances and 
barbed steeds of their opponents were more than a match for the 
slight hackneys of the borderers ; and afler a terrible conflict of 
three hours, the greater part of them were cut to pieces, 1300 men 



INVERE3K. 265 

being slain in the sight of the Scottish camp, Lord Hume himself 
severely wounded, and his son taken prisoner.* 

Still the position of the Scottish army was so formidable, that 
they could neither be attacked with advantage, nor brought to 
battle ; and when the Protector was returning from again recon- 
noitring, he was overtaken by a herald from the enemy, the first 
item of whose message was for an exchange of prisoners ; the se- 
cond, allowing retreat to the English without molestation; and the 
thirdy that, on the non-acceptance of these overtures, the Earl of 
Huntly, anxious to spare the effusion of blood, was anxious to en- 
counter the Protector twenty to twenty, ten to ten, or, if he would 
so far honour him, man to man. 

Although these conditions were rejected, it was yet found, after 
consultation with the principal officers, that, if our rulers would 
keep their Queen unfettered by any matrimonial tie until she be- 
came of age, the Protector would consent to retreat from the king- 
dom. This communication from the English being taken as a mark 
of weakness, was straightway rejected, and nothing remained but 
an appeal to arms. The Scots, impatient for the contest, left 
their strong position, and crossed the Esk to meet the English, 
whose fleet, consisting of thirty-five ships of war, with thirty tran- 
sports, was anchored in the bay, and continued pouring cannon- 
shot among them as they crossed the bridge, by which the Master 
of Graham, son of the Earl of Montrose, with many others, was 
slain. To this fire from the sea and the river they were exposed, 
until they gained the cover of Inveresk Brae, and descended east- 
wards through the How-mire^ when they found themselves imme- 
diately in contact with the enemy. We need give no description 
of a battle so disastrous, and so well known. After four hours 
tremendous fighting, in which the English cavalry had in vain at- 
tempted to break through the foot battalions commanded by the 
Earl of Angus, the Highlanders gave themselves up to their plun- 
dering propensities, and were stripping the slain, when a retrograde 
movement was mistaken by them for a flight. The same panic 
seized the borough troops, who threw down their arms, and follow- 
ed the Highlanders. The Scots fled in three difierent ways, — 
some towards Edinburgh, some towards the coast, and some to- 
wards Dalkeith — and on each side the carnage was dreadful. But 
we cannot do better than use the succinct words of quaint old Pat* 

* Patten*8 Account, p. 46-7. Hay ward in Kennct, Vol. ii p. 282. Tytler's His- 
tory, Vol. vi. p. 26-7. 



266 EDINBUU6HSHIRE. 

ten, himself an eyewitness. " With blode and slaughter of ye 
enemie, this chase was continued v miles in length westward. fro 
the place of their standinge, which was in ye fallow feldes of Un- 
dreske, untille Edinborowe parke, and well nigh to the gates of the 
toune itself, and unto Lyeth ; and in breadth nie iiii myle, from 
the Fryth sandes up unto Daketh southwarde. In all whiche space 
the dead bodies lay as thik as a man may notte cattell grasing in 
a full plenished pasture. The ryvere ran al red with blood, soo 
that in the same chase wear counted, as well by sum of oiir men that 
sumwhat diligently did maike it, as by sum of them take prisoners, 
that very much did lament it, to have been slayne aboove xiii 
thousande. In all thys x^umpos of grounde, what with weapons, 
armes, handes, legges, heddes, blood, and dead bodyes, their flight 
mought have easily been tracted to every of their iii refuges."* 

After the English army had pursued the Scots for five hours, they 
found themselves beside their camp on Edmonston-Edge, where 
they mustered, and gave a shout so shrill and piercing, as to be heard 
on the streets of the capital. But the evening being now advanced^ 
they again retired eastward, and, as Patten says, ^< This night with 
great gladnes and thankesgiving to God, (as good cause we had,) 
about vii of the clock we pitched our campe at Edgbuklyng Brae, 
besyde Pinkersclough, and a mile beyond the place we camped at 
afore."f We make this circumstantial extract to show, that the 
ranges of stone-cofiins lately exposed all along this ridge werecon- 
nected with the events of this bloody day ; as the same diaris^ 
continuing his narration, states, that, ^^ in the morenyng, a great 
sort of us rode to the place of onset, whear our me lay slayn, and 
what by gentleme for their frendes, and servants for their masters, 
al of the ye wear known to be ours wear buried." \ Sir John 
Hope of Pinkie has planted a copsewood where the ranges of 
stone-coffins were found here, to mark out (he lines. 

This battle, more disastrous to Scotland than any since Flod- 
den, was fought on the 10th of September. In the February of 
the following year, Lord Grey, at the head of a powerful force^ 
again entered Scotland, and, carrying his ravages through the 
Merse and Mid-Lothian, razed the towns of Dalkeith and Mus- 
8elburgh.§ On this occasion all the archives and charters of the 
burgh were taken away or destroyed. The oldest now extant, 

* Patten*s Expedicioun, p. 67-8. f Ibid. p. 73. 

\ Ibid. p. 78. § Tytler*s History of Scotland, Vol. vi. p. 49. 



INVERESK. 267 

therefore, are, a transumpt of a charter of the d4th of David II., 
and one granted on the J 1th December 1562, by Robert, Com- 
mendator of Dunfermline, with consent of the \vho1e mem- 
bers of the convent. It states, that ^* the title-deeds belong- 
ing to the burgh were burnt by their enemies, the English, after 
the fatal battle of Pinkie, therefore they of new grant, dispone, and 
confirm, to the present baillies, community, and inhabitants of 
Musselburgh, and to their successors, &c."* 

Four months after this destruction of the town by Lord Grey, 
6000 French troops landed at Leith, under the command of An- 
drew de Montalembert, Sieur D'Esse, including 3000 Germans, 
under the Rhinegrave, and a body of Italians ; and he immediate- 
ly marched them eastward, again to offer battle to the English on 
the field of Pinkie. The English, however, retired before his su- 
perior forces to Haddington, where he unsuccessfully besieged 
them in the autumn of the same year. Meantime he employed 
his troops in throwing up some works at Inveresk, as an advanced 
post for Edinburgh and Leith ; the Privy- Council having erected 
a fort at the same place in the January preceding, as may be seen 
by their unprinted records. 

Immediately adjoining Falside Brae rises Carberry Hill. It 
was here that, on the 15th June 1567, Queen Mary and Both- 
well advanced to meet Morton, Maitland of Lethington, and the 
confederated Lords in battle. The result is well known ; Bothwell 
fled, and escaped into exile, while Mary surrendered herself, and was 
afterwards shut up in Lochleven Castle. The scene is altogether one 
of great beauty and interest ; nor is that interest lessened by these 
historical associations. 

Shortly after the Reformation, the regality of Musselburgh, 
with the patronage of the church of St Michael, and of the va- 
rious chaplainries in the parish, was disjoined from the Abbacy of 
Dunfermline, and conferred by James VL on his Chancellor, 
Lord Thirlstane, the progenitor of the Earls of Lauderdale. 
Many disputes afterwards occurred between this nobleman and 
Queen Anne of Denmark, the wife of ^* the Merry Monarch," re- 
garding this grant, the whole lands and rights of the abbacy hav- 
ing been conferred upon her as a marriage dowry. The proprie- 
tor, however, contended that it had, ab ante^ been gifted to him, 
and his defence being sustained, the whole descended to his &- 

• Vide former Statistical Account by Dr Carlyle, p. 26. 



268 EDINfiUKGHSHIRE. 

niily. In September 1649, John, the Earl of Lauderdale, was 
served heir to his father in this lordship and regality, with supe- 
riority over the vassals of the same lordship ^^ et jure regalitatis 
ejnsdem."* 

In the year following, 1650, Musselburgh was taken possession 
of by Oliver Cromwell, who encamped part of his foot on Mus- 
selburgh Links, where they remained for nearly two months— *the 
site of his own tent being still pointed out opposite Linkfield 
House. During the same time, the church of luveresk, being 
cleared of its sittings, was made use of as a cavalry barracks, and 
the mounds in the churchyard were mounted with cannon. On 
the demolition of the venerable shrine dedicated to St Michael, a 
quantity of gunpowder, said to have been deposited on this occa- 
sion, was found in a vault beneath. 

Before the commencement of the seventeenthjcentury, the lord- 
ship of Inveresk, which had belonged to the Dicksons of Carber- 
ry, was sold by the then proprietor, Sir Robert, to Anne, Duchess 
of Monmouth and Buccleuch; and in 1709, the regality of Mus- 
selburgh was also purchased by the same Noble lady, from the 
Earl of Lauderdale. Certain parts, however, of this regality and 
parish have been since disjoined, and annexed to Cranston, New- 
ton, and Dalkeith. We should also add, in alluding to the supe- 
riority of the Lauderdale family over Musselburgh, that, in 1670, 
the Duke confirmed to the burgh all its ancient rights and privile- 
ges by a charter, which is still carefully preserved in the charter- 
room of the town-hall. The Lordship of the parish of Inveresk, 
as well as its ecclesiastical patronage, still remains in the hands of 
the Noble family of Buccleuch. 

The ancient feudal system of ^' the Riding of the Marches'' 
by the burgesses, still holds here, once within the- fifty years. They 
appear mounted on horseback, and armed with swords. The se- 
ven incorporated trades, each headed by its captain, follow in the 
train of the magistrates and town-council ; the whole cavalcade 
being preceded by the town-ofiicers, with their ancient Brabant 
spears, and a champion armed cap-a-pie. A gratuity is also al- 
lowed to a minstrel, who attends at the succeeding feast, and re- 
cites in verse the glories of the pageantry. Since the commence- 
ment of the present century, these marches have been twice rid- 

* Inquis. Spedal, xx. 150. 

From a MS. in the Royal Exchequer we find that Musselburgh paid of old to that 
fund the yearly sum of L. 2. 



INVERESK. 269 

den— once on the hallowed occasion of the Jubilee commemora- 
tive of the auspicious reign of George III.) in 1809, and again in 
1830.» 

We ought to have mentioned in its proper place, that, in 1682, 
Musselburgh was erected into a royal burgh by a charter under 
the Great Seal ; but the Magistrates of Edinburgh, having enter- 
ed into a compromise with the Magistrates here, a decreet of re- 
duction of that charter was obtained from the Privy- Council, on 
the dOth November of the same year. From that time it has ex- 
isted as a free burgh of regality, and exercised all the rights of a 
royal one, — save that of sending a Member to Parliament ; which 
it also obtained at the great national change in 1832, when it was 
joined in its Parliamentary privileges with Leith and Portobello. 
Its ancient council consisted of eighteen members, ten from Mus- 
selburgh and eight from Fisherrow, and from them two bailies and a 
treasurer were annually elected. Two councillors went out an- 
nually by vote of the council, and their places were supplied by 
other two chosen in the same manner. By their title-deeds the 
magistrates are -empowered to hold a Court of Record, and issue 
precepts both on their decrees and registrations. They are also 
empowered to grant infeftments by hasp and staple more burgi ; 
only their clerk is not entitled to a protocol record of these, as in 
royal burghs. 

The revenues of the town are from feu-duties paid by the pro- 
prietors of all the houses within its territories ; from its lands, 
which are considerable ; from its quarries, its mills, and its har- 
bour-duties. The revenue derived from these sources is not less 
than L. 2300 annually. From this ample fund all public expen- 
ses are liquidated — the streets are lighted and paved from it— 
and the inhabitants have no local burdens. 

On the passing of the Reform Bill — which, by the bye, is said 
to have been drawn up by Mr Thomas Drummond, then Secre- 
tory to Lord Althorpe, who received his education at Mussel- 
burgh — the set of the Burgh was altered ; and it is now governed 
by a Provost, with a Town- Council of twelve, out of which two 
bailies and a treasurer are chosen. The first provost of the burgh 
under the new regime was William Aitchison, Esq. of Drummore, 

* Until within the last ten or fifteen yean, on the annual payment of their rent 
to the agent of the Duke of Buocleuch, an entertainment was given by the magis- 
trates, under the title of *' the Hen Feast** It derived this title from the conside- 
ration, that '* the Kain fowls" due by the lessees of the burgh mills were served up 
on this occasion. 



270 EDlNBURGHSUlitE. 

whoy on the expiry of his three years of office, was succeeded by 
Sir John Hope, Bart., of Craighall. Alexander Vernor, Esq. 
now holds the office. 

It may be noted, as a circumstance not unworthy of record, 
that, on the election immediately succeeding the passing of the 
Reform Bill, Musselburgh was the only town in Scotland, except- 
ing Queensferry, that returned a majority of Conservative coun- 
cillors. 

By the treasurer's accounts for 1839, it was found that the 
debts of the burgh amounted to L. 16,406, 1 4s. 4d., and its reve- 
nue for the twelve months preceding to L. 2244, Is. 2d. 

Antiquities. — At the epoch of record, there existed two manors, 
the one entitled Great, and the other Little Inveresk. The lat- 
ter was granted by Malcolm Canmore and his Queen Margaret to 
the monks of Dunfermline; and this grant was confirmed by Da- 
vid I., who added a donation of Great Inveresk, with the mill, the 
fishing, the church of St Michael, and other pertinents. 

The church is thus mentioned by Chalmers : " The church 
of Inveresk was dedicated to St Michael the Archangel. It was, 
in early times, from its location, and populous parish, of great 
value, and was rated in the ancient Taxation by the name of Mus- 
cilburg, at 70 merks. The monks enjoyed the revenues of the 
parsonage, while the cure was served by a vicar. Even the vicars 
of Muscilburg appear as witnesses to many charters, among men 
of consequence." 

In the church of Inveresk there were several altars with their 
chaplains, who were endowed for performing at them their appro* 
priate worship.* To this mother church various chapels in the 
parish were subordinate; and, among others, the celebrated cha- 
pel oi our Lady of Loretto^ with the hermit's cell adjoining; the 
chapel dedicated to Mary Magdalene, on the bank of the Niddry- 
burn,f and a third at the head of Market- Street, where the ruins of 
an Alms-house still remain. The venerable church of St Michael,:^ 
which continued as a place of worship till J 804, was then ta- 



* In Bagimont*8 ro1l» as it stood under James V., the vicarage of Muscelburg 
taxed at L. 6, 6s. 8d. This vicarage is also recorded in the Archbishop*s rent-roll 
1347. In 1475, Sir Simon Preston of Craigmillar gave an annual rent often marks 
out of the lands of Cameron to a chaplain in Musselburgh church, for such appro- 
priate worship. MS. Donationt. 

j- Prom this chapel Magdalene Bridge, and Magdalene Pans derived, and still re- 
tain their names. 

f In this church the celebrated Wishart performed divine service a short time 
prior to his martyrdom. 



INVERESK. . 271 

ken down, and a modern structure, much inferior in architectural 
beauty, was reared on its site. Of the chapel of Loretto, to which 
pilgrimages were made on foot by kings, nothing remains but a 
small burial vault ; and a thick grove now usurps the bank, where 
votaries knelt at the shrine of Mary Magdalene. 

The mill granted to the monks of Dunfermline by David I. 
stood at the top of the Shire-haugh, and had its hereditary 
miller attached to it.* It was burned down in 1827 ; and its site, 
with the banks of the £sk upward on the eastern side, was sold in 
the following year by the magistrates of Musselburgh to the pre- 
sent Duke of Buccleuch. The mill itself lay on the slope of the 
bank by the road side, and an ancient bridge of one arch spanned 
the mill-lead. To the north of it was the miller's house, a plea- 
sant mansion of two stories, and at either side of it were minor 
domiciles for his assistants. A parapet of stone enclosed the 
whole, together with their gardens; and some venerable ashes 
and elms spoke of bygone centuries. The boundary walls of 
Dalkeith park now encircle the spot, and no vestiges of the build- 
ings remain. 

When the plough was first here employed in agriculture, we 
have no authentic record, but most assuredly this took place pre- 
vious to 1070,— ^the commencement of the Scoto-Saxon dynasty. 
The greater proportion by far, however, of the district was cover- 
ed with woods, affording shelter and pasturage for flocks and herds, 
besides multitudes of wild game; and from the MS. Monast. 
Scotise, we learn, that Alexander II. granted a free warren 
to the monks of Dunfermline through their lands of Musselburgh, 
prohibiting any one from hunting or trespassing there, under 
a penalty of L. 10. In those ages it was an established right 
of the clergyman to enjoy common of pasturage throughout his 
own parish. 

We have already mentioned the Roman roads traversing the 
parish of Inveresk ; and these seem to have continued long there, 
and throughout the country, as the only public means of communi- 

* In the Inquis. Special xv. 69, we find that, in June 1636, Thomas Smith was 
served heir to his father, a burgess of Musselburgh, in two oxgates of the lands of In- 
veresk, two and a-half acres in the moor at Inveresk, and a tenement in Inveresk, to- 
gether with the office of hereditary miller of the mill called the ^ire mill, within the 
limits of Inveresk ; with the mill acre ; also to the sixth part of the four com^mtUs 
of Mtt$telhurgh»hire ; and to the sixth part of the haughy near the said shire mill. 

The present tea-mill of Musselburgh was one of the earliest works of that celebrat* 
ed engineer, the late Sir .lohn Rennie. 

f Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 725. 



272 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

cation ; but^ by the charter of David L| already more than 
once referred to, and which was afterwards confirmed by a Bull of 
Pope Gregory IX* in 1234) the magistrates of Musselburgh had 
the right given them of levying a toll at the western extremity 
of the parish, for the purpose of upholding the Roman bridge over 
the £sk, and repairing the streets of Musselbui^h.* This toll is 
only exigible on beasts of burden, flocks and herds, and is at this 
moment in operation at Magdalen Bridge, under the name of the 
Gentes custom. How this appellation was acquired, tradition saith 
not, unless we lean to the vague report that the first tackswo- 
man was named Janet, and that familiarity afterwards changed the 
same from Janet to Janety, and thence more remotely to Gente. 
We all remember the old ballad of " The Bonny Hynd." 

They call me Jack when I*m abroad ; 

Sometimes they call mejgJohn ; 
But when I'm in my father's hover 

Jock Randal is my name.*'i* 

From this it is evident, that wheel-carriages were not in com- 
mon use at this period, either here or elsewhere in Scotland ; yet 
are these mentioned not only by the same illustrious King in his 
charter of Holyrood, but repeatedly for the next century, in the 
chartularies of the different monasteries. 

From the same curious sources, we learn, that, during the Scoto- 
Saxon period, king's highways were formed in various parts of the 
country. Gervaise, the Abbot of Newbottle, mentions a certain 
road, which was called Derstrette^ near Golden, in the district of 
Inveresk ;j: and under Alexander IIL Sir Hugh Riddel alludes 
to the Regia Via, leading from Ford to the same monastery. 
The king's highway from Newbottle to Edinburgh is mentioned 
in a charter of 125d.§ 

The celebrated chapel dedicated to Our Lady of LorettOy stood 
beyond the eastern gate of Musselburgh, and on the margin of 
the links ; but we have no authentic accounts as to the time of its 
erection. Pilgrimages from all parts of the country were perform- 
ed to this shrine. According to Keith, (280,) it was connected 
. with the Nunnery of Sciennes, in the south wing of Edinburgh ; 
and Ggugh, the antiquarian, says regarding'it, that pregnant-women 
sent handsome presents of money accompanying their child-bed 

* In 1597 the Parliament of Scotland passed an act for repairing the brig of Mus- 
selburgh. It is unprinted. There was also another in 1661 ** for an imposition at 
the brig of Musselburgh.** 

t See Border Mintrelsy, Vol. iii. p. 310, bst edition. 

\ Chart. Newbottle, 16a § Idem, 16. 



INVERESK. 273 

linen, Which latter was consecrated to promote their safe and easy 
recovery.* The celebrity of the place was upheld by the residence 
of a hermit, who inhabited a cell adjoining the chapel, and by the 
pretended performance of miracles. So well for a time did the 
jugglery succeed, that at the commencement of the sixteenth cen* 
tury, it was one of the most noted shrines in Scotland ; and we 
learn from Lesley, (442,) that in August 1530, James V. perform- 
ed a pilgrimage from Stirling to it, on foot, before setting sail for 
France, to woo and win a partner for his throne. Time, however, 
brought out, that the fervour of religious zeal was here often al- 
loyed by the admixture of baser • feelings, and the satiric lash of 

<' Sir David Lyndsay of the Mount, 
Lord Lion King at Arms,** 

was directed with his usual pith and power, against the pro&na- 
tions, which it is to be feared often took place here, from the un- 
restrained meetings of the young of both sexes.-f- 

In 1544, the English army under the Earl of Hertford, which 
had come down by sea to Leith, returned home by land ; and the 
account of the late expedition given by " a frende of Hys" } con- 
cludes by adding the names of the chiefe borrowghes, castelles, 
and tounes, brente and desolated by ye King'^s army, beynge late 
in Scotlande, besydes a great numbre of villages; pyles, and stedes, 
which I cannot name." The fifth entry in this precious list is as 
follows. " Parte of Musskelborowe tovme^ we the chapel of our Lady 
ofLauret/*§ In this conflagration the council hall and jail of the 
burgh were laid in ruins, and the ancient charters of David I. and 
Pope Gregory IX. were destroyed. The spire alone seems to 
have escaped, the dial-plate of its ancient and primitive clock still 
bearing the inscription of 1496. || 

* Gough^s Camden*s Britannia, fol. Vol. iii. p. 310. 

f That the Hermit of Loretto was a notable man in his day is evident from the 
circumstance of his having a satire addressed to him by Alexander, Earl of Glencaim» 
exposing the hypocrisy of the Roman Catholic clergy. It is entitled, *' jlne Epuliil 
direct fra the halie Hermeit of AlareU^ to his Bretfiren, the Gray Friarsy''* and thus be- 
gins, 

*' I, Thomas Hermeit in Lareit, 

Sanct Francis Ordour do hairtilie greiV* &c 

See as quoted in Knox's History of Reformation, fol. 24-25, £din. 1792. 

X Vide Oolyell's Fragments of Scottish History, p. IL 

$ We are enabled to form some idea of the devastation committed by this army on 
Its march to England, from the following extract from Hayne*s State Papers, p. 49 : 
'' Towns, towers, stedes, barnekyns, paryshe-churches, bastel- houses, cast down or 
burnt, J 92; Scots slain, 403; prisoners uken, 816; noli, 10,386; sheep, 12,492; 
nags and geldings, 1296 ; goats, 200 ; bolls of corn, 850 ; insight gear, I. e, house* 
hold furniture, not reckoned.'* 

II The clock is said to have been a present to the town from the States of Holland, 
on account of the extent of trade transacted with that country. A brass plate, noti- 

EDINB URGH. S 



274 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

The chapel of Loretto underwent a speedy repair, but what 
war and wasting fire had spared was soon destined to utter demo- 
lition in the zeal of the Reformation ; and in 1590, the materials 
of that edifice, to which so many thousand pilgrimages had for 
centuries been made, were carried away for the construction of the 
present Tolbooth, adjoining the more modern Town-hali and 
Assembly Room. Dr Carlyle r^narks * that *^ this is said to 
have been the first religious house in Scotland whose ruins were 
applied to an unhallowed use, for which the good people of Mus- 
selburgh are said to have been annually excommunicated^ till very 
lately, at Rome.'' 

Of this building, which must have been of considerable dimen- 
sions, no vestige now remains, save a cell measuring 12 feet by 10, 
covered by a circular wooded mount. In the roof is inserted a 
strong iron bar, with an oaken pulley attached, but for what pur- 
pose seems doubtful. In 1831, the present proprietor of the villa 
of Loretto, the Rev. Thomas Langhorne, caused part of the 
earthen floor to be dug up, when a number of human skulls were 
discovered, some of which were in complete preservation, and re- 
main so. Over the entrance is an antique carved stone, but from 
the date on it, 1634, it must have been placed there at a period 
subsequent to the destruction of <^ the chapelle of Lauret." The 
present villa of Loretto, which is extensive and commodious, ap- 
pears to have been built during the last century, and is surrounded 
by delightful gardens and orchards. 

The great Randolph, Earl of Murray, the compatriot and bosom 
friend of Douglas, so celebrated in his history as *' the good Lord 
James," and the second in command under Robert the Bruce at 
the battle of Bannockburn, died in a house near the East Port of 
the town, on the south side of the street. It consisted of two rooms 
on the ground floor, with arched roofs. Each of these apartments 
was 14 feet square, and the arch 8 feet from the floor. This ve- 
nerable domicile, which existed at the era of the last Statistical 
Account, was demolished about thirty years ago, and its site is now 
occupied by the Aitcheson's Haven Operative Masonic Lodge.'f* 

fying Uiis circuxnstanoe, and attached to the work, was stolen away a good many years 
ago, supposed to be by the person who had the charge of cleaning the machinery. Tha 
work is still in good presenration. 

* Vide former Statistical Account, Vol. xyi. p. 6. 

f Morrison's Haven is situated immediately boyond the eastern boundary of the 
parish, and its history, as Chalmers sajs, may be given in a few words : ** In \SS!^, 
James V. empowered the monks of Newbottle, the discoverers of coal iathe same vi- 
cinity, to construct a port within their own lands of Prestongrange. They erected 



INVEHESK. 275 

Three years after Lord Hertford's expedition, Scotland was. 
again invaded by the Duke of Somerset, the Lord Protector of 
England, during the minority of Edward VL In the centre of a 
circle of trees, at the eastern extremity of the grounds of Esk- 
grove, and opposite to Pinkie burn, a square pillar, surmounted 
by an antique stone, representing a fleur de lis, marks the spot 
where the royal tent was pitched, and bears the following inscription : 

'< The Protector, Duke of Somerset, 
Encamped here, 9th September 
1547." 

The late Lord Eskgrove caused to be erected near the same 
spot a metallic statue, emblematic of England, This was much 
destroyed by idle boys, and has since been removed. 

In the church^yard of Inveresk there is a mound standing, which 
would afford ample field for antiquarian disquisition, but our limits 
restrict us to a few brief remarks. Its position is to the north- 
west of the church, and during last century a similar mound to the 
north-east was removed. What was the origin of these mounds, 
whose antiquity is indisputable ? 

Frotn having been traditionally named *' Oliver's Mounts" by 
the common people, Mr Robert Chambers, in his laborious and 
excellent Gazetteer of Scotland, sets them down in the article 
^' Inveresk,'^ as having been thrown up by Cromwell, who was 
known to have used the church of St Michael as a cavalry sta- 
tion. This, however, is disproved by our finding them marked in 
the rude diagrams in Patten's account of the Duke of Somerset's 
Expedition, — and it will not do to quarrel with his placing them 
on the south side of the church ; (he places the chapel of Loretto 
to the west of the river instead of to the east) as he distinctly 
mentions them as " the mounds in the church-yard." By this is 
evidently implied, that they were there when he reached the 
place ; and although the Duke afterwards used them to defend 
the river at the thoroughfare by the bridge, which they command- 
ed, no mention is made by Patten of his having thrown them up, 
although he is most circumstantial in all his details. The 
fact is, that he could not have done so, as the English army, which 

a harbour which was called Newhaven ; and this name was changed to Aitcheson's 
Haven, and afterwards obtained the name of Morrison's Haven, from the succeeding 
proprietors at the commencement of the seventeenth oentnry." The estates of Goaford 
and Gulane, as well as the lands in the neighbourhood of this port, belonged to the 
&mily of Aitcheson, which afterwards went over to Ireland. Its present representa- 
tive is Earl Gosford, the late Governor of Lower Canada. How the lodg^ came 
to be localized in Musselburgh is doubtful. 



276 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

was encamped at Drummore and Wallyford, only advanced on the 
morning of t-he day preceding the fatal battle of Pinkie, from Fal* 
side brae, and had not penetrated so far westward till the eve of 
conflict. Patten's words are curious, and are these : ^ Fro this 
hil of Fauxside Bray descended my Liordes Grace, my Lord Lieu- 
tenant, and anoolher along before their cape, within les than ii. 
flightshottes into a lane or strete of a xxx foot brode, fenced on 
either side with a wall of turf an elle of height : whiche wey did 
lead straigh northwarde, and nie to a church called Saint Mighels 
of Undreske, stondinge upon a mean rising hill somewhat higher 
than the site of their campe."* He afterwards proceeds thus : ^* In 
ye night of this dai, my Lords Grace appolted yt early in ye next 
morning part of our ordinance should be planted in the lane I spake 
of, under ye turf wall next to their campe ; and sum also to be set 
npo the hill nie to Undreske church,**^ After reconnoitring on the 
day preceding the battle. Patten expressly says after the first pas- 
sage here quoted : '^ Thus this viewed, they toke their returne di- 
rectly homeward to our tetes at whom in ye way ye Scottes did 
often shoot." These tents were two miles to the east, on Falside 
Brae. 

That the mounts in the church-yard, therefore, were not erected 
by Oliver Cromwell is demonstrable ; because they are set down 
in Patten's Diary ; and that they were not thrown up at that time 
by the Duke of Somerset, is equally evident, for he did not gain 
possession of them till some time after the commencement of the 
battle. " We cam on spedily," quoth Patten, ** a both sydes, 
neither as thento ony whit (I dare saye) ware of other's entent: 
but ye Scots indede we a rounder pace : Betzent the ii. hillockes 
betwixt us and the churchy thei moustred somwhat brim in oureyes^ 
at whoom, as they stayed thear a while, our galley shot of, and 
slew the Master of Greym with a five-and-twenty nere by him."J 

We must therefore find a more ancient date for these mounds, 
and somewhat incline to the belief of Lord Hailes that they were 
Roman in their origin. That bones have been found ten or eleven 
feet below the surface is but an inconclusive argument against this 
supposition ; while, on the other hand, we have heard, that in the 
course of sepulture vestiges of stone walls have been come upon, 
by the edge of this rampart, which not improbably belong to the 

* Dalyeirs Fragments. Patten*s Expedition of his Grace the Duke of Somerset, 
p. 48. 

t Ibid, p. 52. • Diary, p. 54-5. 



INVERESK. 277 

Roman wall, as stated in Mr Wedderburn's Account, to have run 
along the whole face of the northern ridge of the hill. 

Nor, for these reasons, can these questionable mounds have be- 
longed to the fort raised at Inveresk by the French commander 
Desse, for he did not occupy the station till the June of the suc- 
ceeding year, 1548. Where the fort of Desse stood, although it 
must necessarily have been in the immediate vicinity, we have no 
means of now ascertaining — but it should be mentioned, that while 
some old people called this rampart Oliver's Moundy others gave 
it the appellation of Dess^s Work.* These works at Inveresk 
were thrown up as an advanced post for the protection of Leith 
and Edinburgh, as has been before stated. 

Previous to the battle of Pinkie, the Roman bridge was fortiBed 
by the Scottish General, who had its gate defended by artillery* 
The village of Inveresk was surrounded by turf walls a yard high, 
along which ranges of small cannon were placed. The sea was 
the defence of Musselburgh on the north from a land army ; and 
a strong gate secured it on the east. It was thus rendered a posi- 
tion of some strength, and was the only town in the east of Scot- 
land, except Dunbar, that offered any determined resistance to the 
approach of Cromwell.f 

Stone coffins have at various times been exposed throughout the 
parish in the operations of agriculture. About sixteen years ago, 
in cutting the new line of London road, through the eastern shoul- 
der of Edgebucklin Brae, at the foot of Musselburgh Links, nu- 
merous ranges of skeletons were come upon, enclosed in slabs of 
stone similar to that found in the adjoining quarries, which have 
been worked for the last 600 years. They were about four feet 
from the surface, and laid down without«much apparent regard to 
order.j: During last summer, similar ranges of stone coffins were 

* On the 10th of January 1548-9, the Privy-Council ordered a fort to be built at 
Inveretk. The town of Edinburgh was directed to furnish 300 workmen, with pro- 
per tools for six days. The same council ordered, that every plough of eight oxen, 
between Linlithgow and Haddington, should furnisli a man, properly provided with 
entrenching tools, during the same time of six days, and every patch plough to fur- 
nish two men, under pain of forty shillings.— (MS. Extracts from the Privy- Coun. 
c\\ Records. Keith's Appendix, 57.) — In the governor and council's answer, on the 
22d April 1550, to the French Memorial, they intimated that, to save charges, the 
fort of Inveresk would be kept by the Abbot of Dunfermline, upon caution.---(See 
Caledonia, Vol. ii, p. 620.) 

f Vide ^* The History of the Revolutions in England under the Family of the 
Stuarts, from the year 1603 to 1690.*" By F. J. D'Orleans, of the Society of Jesus, 
translated from the French original, to which is prefixed an Introduction, by Lau- 
rence Echard, M. A., Archdeacon of Stowe, 1722, p. 146. 

:^ In Westminster Abbey, near Poet's Corner, is a superb monument erected to 
the memory of one of the Thynne family, an ancestor of the Marquis of Bath, who 



278 EDINBURGHSHIRE* 

exposed in the trenching of a field in the immediate neighbour- 
hood of Newfarm, above Smeaton, and many bones were also dis- 
covered in them^ in considerable preservation.* 

We may mention here, as a circumstance not generally knowo, 
the name not being alluded to in the minute details either of Bir- 
rel or Patten — that Sir William Cecil, afterwards the famous Lord 
Burleigh, was present with his munificent patron Somerset^ at the 
battle of Musselburgh, on which occasion, says one of his biogra- 
phers, he *^ was only saved from inevitable destruction by the ge- 
nerous interposition of a friend, who pushed him out of the level of 
a cannon, and had his own arm shattered by the ball, which must 
otherwise have passed through Cecil's body." 

When levelling a bank at Pinkie-burn, about six years ago, im- 
mediately to the east of the streamlet, the Rev. Mr Watson of 
that place found great quantities of bones imbedded in the soil. 
These seemed to be chiefly the bones of horses ; and from the 
principal scene of conflict having been in the How^Mire^ imme- 
diately to the east, the Scottish cavalry had retreated down the 
precipitous banks of the streamlet, along which, as tradition re- 
ports, so many perished, that its waters were tinctured with blood 
for three days. 

Edgebucklin Brae, on which now stands the farmstead of Pinkie 
Mains, is about half a mile within the eastern boundary of the pa« 
rish of Inveresk. It is also the limit to the east which command- 
ed the personal attendance of the Archer Guard of the Scottish 
Kings, as Cramond Bridge was in the opposite direction. 

Within a mile from the principal scene of action at the battle 
of Pinkie, which, according to the detailed and circumstantial ac- 
count of Patten, was *^ in the fallow feldes above Undreske,^ is si- 
tuated the manor of Carberry. 

The house of Carberry is ancient, comparatively speaking, and 
has all the marks of a baronial mansion ; but its date is not ascer- 
tained. That it existed long before the battle may be argued, 
from the under storey being strongly arched, and lined with oak 
pannelling. The division now used as a kitchen has all the ap- 
pearance of a keep for the lodgment of prisoners. That it was a 
considerable mansion-house in the sixteenth century is certain ; 
and was the property of Mr Hugh Rigg, an advocate, and distin- 
guished public character at the time, who is mentioned in Knox's 

was slain here. The inscription bears, that his body was carried home to Englatfd 
by his fellow soldiers, and there buried. 
• Vide MS. 

4 



INVERESK. 279 

History, Book First (a. d. 1534,) as evidencing the mental agonies 
of Cardinal Beaton^ after that prelate had condemned many of the 
Reformers to the flames ; and also by Pitscottie, as being one of 
the four to whom the Governor of Scotland communicated the 
overtures of the Duke of Somerseti immediately previous to the 
battle of Pinkie.* 

The House of Carberry — like those of Elphinstone and Fal- 
side, immediately adjoining — had been originally built as much for 
defence as accommodation : but about twenty years ago, it under- 
went a thorough repair, and an adaptation to the peaceable com- 
forts of modern times. The bartizan is characterized by the an- 
tique quaintness of its mouldings, and its garniture of ^^ winged 
cherubs ;" and in the garden, immediately behind the south side 
of the building, ^^ a dial stone, aged and green," bears the date of 
1579. Carberry is beautifully situated on the northern slope of 
the hill, embosomed amid its orchards, and venerable groves of 
oak, chestnut, and beech, commanding a noble prospect to the 
westward, and also of the Frith of Forth. Immediately above is 
the peak of the^ hill from which Queen Mary witnessed the ap« 
proach of the congregated Barons ; and the stone is still point- 
ed out on which she rested, while holding a conference with Kirk- 
aldy of Grange, immediately after she had parted with Bothwell 
for"the last time. I'he spot is still called the " Queen's Seat," 
and is marked out by a coppice, planted by the late John Fullar- 
(on, Esq. 

By several entries in the " Inquisitiones Speciales," we find that 
the property of Carberry remained for a long time in the family 
of Rigg,^ which was succeeded by that of Dickson, and then by 
that of Fullarton. It is now in the possession of J. F. Elphin- 
stone, Esq., who succeeded in right of his grandmother. 

Nor of the origin of Pinkie House have we any authentic 

^ The words of Pitscottie are these : — " These letters coming to the Governor, he 
revealed the tame only to his brother John, Archbishop of St Andrews, George Dun, 
Abbot of.Dunfermiing, Archibald Beaton, and Mr Hugh Rigg of Carbary, b^ whose 
advice he concealed the Frotcctor*s letters and reasonable offers from the nobility, for 
fear lest' they embraced them.** P. 853. 

It is not a little singular that the battle-fields of Carberry, Boslln, Pinkie, and 
Prestonpans, are each within sight of the other, — and that the extremities of the 
whole are not more than eiffht miles distant, as the crow flies. 

{ On the 29tb January 1600, we find *< Magister Quintigernus Rig, Jittres Jaco- 
bi Rig de Carbarry, patria^ in tenemento in burgo de Edinburgh. £. L. 20.*' And 
in the account of the parish given by the Rev. Adam Colt, minister in 1627, pub- 
lished in the Maitland Club books, we find the following statement : *^ Thir landis 
pertenis to James Rig of Carbarrie, and ar in maynsing as he hes tak of the teindis 
of the same, and ar possest be himselfe.** 



280 EDINBURGHSHIUE. 

accounts. It appears to have been originally a country seat, ap- 
pertaining ex officio to the Abbots of Dunfermline ; and, after the 
Reformation, to have become private property. In 1593 the Ab- 
bacy was annexed to the Crown, but the lordship of Musselburgh 
was excepted, and when afterwards a charter of infeftment was 
ratified in favour of the Earl of Lauderdale of the same lordship, 
that of Pinkie was exempted,* in favour of the Earl of Dunferm- 
line. 

An inscription in front of the building — " Dominus Alexander 
Setonius kanc domum aedificaviti non ad animij sed fbrtunanan et 
agelli modum^ 1613*' — can bear no reference to the foundation of 
the building, but a vanity attached to some additions made to it. 
From a minute examination, we are convinced that many parts 
of the house must have been built long anterior to the time of the 
first Earl of Dunfermline, who died here in 1622, and whose body 
was afterwards laid out in state in the church of St Michael at 
Inveresk. 

The primary mansion, which appears to have been intended as 
entire by itself, is the most northern part of the present edifice, and 
comprehends the massive square tower with its picturesque tur* 
rets. The walls are of great thickness, and the ground floor is 
strongly arched. It contains, besides a number of quaint and cu- 
rious apartments, accessible only at angles of the staircase, the 
spacious room, styled par excellence " the King's Room," — from 
one of the Abbots having entertained his sovereign there, and which 
bears, in its stuccoed roof, the marks of an antiquity consider- 
ably antecedent to the seventeenth century.f The more south-> 
em portions of the building, containing the painted gallery and 
other fine rooms, are evidently not so ancient ; nor indeed are the 
floors on the same level, although doors have been opened through 
the original gable. But even to this second addition we cannot 
assign a date posterior to the removal of the Scottish Kings to 
England — as vire are told that this gallery, which is 120 feet Ipng, 
was used as an hospital for the wounded after the battle of Pinkie ; 
and its roof, painted in compartments throughout, exhibits all the 
traces, of that mixture of mythology, heraldry, and romance, which 

* Sheriffball was at same time excepted in favour of the Earl of Morton.— 
Vide Inquisit. Special. Vol. v 655. 

f Traditional yanta whispers to us, that during one season, the holy Abbot gave up 
Piukie House as a summer residence to James V.— and that here the gay and gal- 
lant monarch enjoyed thp society of his beautiful favourite Margaret Oliphant* 



J 



INVEUESK. 281 

characterized the mind and monarchy of the wise, yet womanly, 
the erudite, yet pedantic, James VL 

It was in this same room that Prince Charles Edward slept on 
the night after his victory over the Royal army at Prestonpans. 

Pinkie House, although a very large stucture, is evidently only 
part of a magnificent Gothic design, which has never been com* 
pleted. It appears to us that the building was intended to be 
quadrangular, and that the fountain of elaborate architecture in 
the shape of a Papal mitre, which stands upon the green in front, 
should form the centre of the court. The original garden still re- 
mains, with its ornamented walls, and richly carved doorways, pi- 
lasters, and sun-dials ; and the grounds which surround the whole 
are eminently beautiful. From historical associations, the locality 
is one of the most interesting in Scotland ; nor ought it to be 
overlooked, that '* Pinkie House" is sacred to the lovers of Scot- 
tish song, as affording a theme wedded to one of the sweetest and 
most touching of our national melodies. 

On the forfeiture of the Dunfermline earldom in 1688, the ba- 
rony was purchased by the Tweeddale family, with whom it re- 
mained till 1778, when bought by the late Sir Archibald Hope of 
Craighall. 

The original barony of Pinkie comprehended little more than 
thirty acres, lying to the east and south of the mansion-house ; 
but the property has of late years been greatly extended, from pur- 
chases of property in the vicinity, by the present proprietor. Sir 
John Hope, the Vice- Lieutenant of the county. 
* Stonyhill, about half a mile north-west from the Roman bridge, 
was, in former days, the residence of Sir William Sharpe, the son 
of the famous Archbishop, who was returning from a visit to this 
spot, when murdered on Magus Moor; and nearer to our own 
times, it was the property of the infamous Colonel Charteris. It 
is traditionally recorded here, that the populace assembled in the 
avenue down which the funeral procession of that wretched person 
had to pass, and bespattered the hearse with filth and garbage. 

Before falling into the hands of the Sharpes, Stonyhill was long 
possessed by a family of the name of Dobie — and the most an- 
cient medal attached to the silver arrow given by the magistrates 
of Musselburgh to be shot for annually over the Links by the Royal 
Company of Archers, represents one of them in the costume of 
the time, and the date of 1603. The same gentleman, from sub- 
sequent medals, appears to Jiave gained it thrice, upon which, by 



282 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

the laws of gift, it was to become private property. But this third 
medal, dated I6289 intimates, that the arrow was again gifted back 
to the town by the winner. 

The last remains of the original mansion of Stonyhill were taken 
down during 1838, and the materials exhibited every mark of a hoar 
antiquity. The wood-work in the walls was literally reduced to 
must; and some curious stones were exposed, which had been 
built in over one of the mantel-pieces. The present occupant, 
Mr Park, caused a large block then found, and which exhibits a 
striking petrifaction of the roots of a tree, to be placed, for the 
sake of preservation, in the garden wall,**where it is now to be 
seen.* 

The existing mansion house of Stonyhill appears to have been 
originally the oiSces of the ancient villa ; and behind it are the gar- 
den and orchard, encloHed by a gigantic, buttressed wall, appa- 
rently of great age. A mulberry tree in one of the walks may 
well have been coeval with that of Shakspeare. 

The small field at the end of the avenue was called ^^ the Bogle's 
Hole," and was th# selected spot, in the dark ages, for the incre- 
mation of witches. About its centre there was a bare patch, on 
which, for this reason, according to vulgar belief, the grass never 
grew. Stonyhill 'is now the property of the Earl of Wemyss, 

The gardens of Stonyhill and Monktonhall appear to have been 
among the earliest in this part of the island ; and entries in the 
household books of Dalkeith Palace shew that vegetables and 
fruits were procured from the latter upwards of two centuries 

ago*t 

About a mile above Monktonhall, on the Dalkeith road, stands 
Monkton House, said to have been built by the famous General 
Monk, and his favourite Scottish residence. This venerable build- 
ing, now used as farm-olSSces, stands in the court of the present 
mansion-house — the property of Sir John Hope of Pinkie. The 

* In the '* InquiMtiones Speciales," we find,that << Staniehil]/' as well as <* Munk- 
tounhall** were parts of the lordship granted to John Earl of Lauderdale. 

In the same mine of antiquarian knowledge, we find a service of heirship of ^ six- 
teen oxgates of land in Munktounhall to Robert Dobie of Stanyhill, which is stated 
to be ^* in regaUtate de DuufermUng^ et difminio de Atwuelburgfuhire.** 

'f There is a curious entry in Arnot's/' Celebrated Criminal Trials*' on the Break- 
ing of Gardens.—*' John Kait and Alexander Dean were indicted at the instance of 
bis Migesty's Advocate for breaking into the gardens of Barnton, PiltoUf Barnbouglflk 
Greycrook, Craigiehall, and Carlowry, and stealing thence herbs, artichoke plants, 
Mybows^ )• e. young onions, and bee-hives. They had formerly been convicted before 
an inferior Judicature, for breaking gardens in the neighbourhood of Musselburgh ; 
and by warrant of the Privy-Council, they were sentenced to be taken to the Burrow 
Muir of Edinburgh and there hanged, 1^.'* 



INYERESK, 283 

celebrated Routing Welly said to predict a storm, is situated in a 
strip of plantation skirting the field to the south-west. The late 
Dr Carlyle has explained this phenomenon, and we suspect right- 
ly, on natural causes. ^* The case is, that this well, being dug 
many &thoms deep, through a rock, in order to get below the 
strata of coal that abound in the field, it communicates through 
the coal-rooms that are wrought, with other shafts ; which oc- 
casions a rumbling noise, that does not precede^ but accompanies 
a high wind."* 

New Hailes, the seat of the celebrated author of ^^ The An- 
nals of Scotland," and other valuable works connected with the 
ancient laws and literature of our country, is about half a mile 
north-west from Stonyhill, and contains the library of his Lord- 
ship, so rich in antiquarian lore. The grounds are beautifully laid 
out, and near the house is a column, erected to the memory of 
the great Earl of Stair. The ruins of the chapel of St Magda- 
lene were at the north-west extremity of this estate ; but, save an 
occasional tombstone which has been dug up, no vestige of its 
site remains. Parts of buildings nearer the sea, and, indeed, now 
covered by it, appear to have been offices belonging to this sacred 
institution. 

In conclusion, we may mention, that among the more ancient 
buildings of the place, are the Musselburgh Kilwinning Lodge, 
built in 1612, in the back street called the Dambrie, in which is 
also an ancient well, noted by housewives for the excellence of its 
water in the infusion of tea, and still known as ^* the Vicar's Well," 
from having been attached to the vicarage of St Michael's. This, 
from its immediate vicinity, stood in all probability on the site of 
the present manse, which was built in 1806. The former manse 
was built m 1681. f 

* Maitland in bis *' PerambuUtioQ of divers miles round Edinburgh,** (1753^) 
gives a pretty similar solution, which perhaps the Doctor might have seen. Nor u 
this phenomenon peculiar to Monckton. Camden (Brit, in Com, Glamorg.J men. 
tions something very similar in the Isle of Barry , near the mouth of the Taf, in 
the chink of a rock ; and at Slackpooi Bother in South Wales is a pit of immense 
depth, which foams and bubbles before stormy weather, and makes a noise, some- 
times to be heard at the distance of miles. 

f During the incumbency of Dr Carlyle, diis manse was a fiiTOurite resort of the 
distinguish«i literati of the last floe. Robertson and Hume, Mackenzie and Campbell, 
LoffM and Stuart, Home and smoUet, and Beattie and Hill, were often its cherished 
▼isitants. Great part of the Tragedy of Douglas was here composed ; and it was here, 
after Mackenzie and the late Lord Kinneder had attempted to fill up the hiaius^ that 
the long lost copy of Collins*s sublime ^* Ode on the Superstitions of the Highlands** 
was at length discovered in its perfected state. At a sUU earlier period, the sermons 
of the pious and scholastic Williamson were dated from this place. 

$ For other minor antiquities in this parish sec MS. 



284 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Heritors* — The principal heritors are, 1. the Duke of Buc- 
cleuch and Queensberry, who is patron of the parish ; % the 
Earl of Wemyss and March; 3, Sir John Hope, Bart, of Craig- 
hall, propHetor of the barony of Pinkie, and also of that of Monk- 
ton ; 4. John Fullarton, Esq. of Carberry j 5. William Aitchison, 
Esq. of Walliford, formerly possessed by the Binnings, a family 
of note ; 6. Sir Charles Dalrymple Fergusson, Bart, who suc- 
ceeded to the estate of New Hailes, formerly possessed by Miss 
Dalrymple, daughter of Lord Hailes ; 7. John Wauchope, Esq. 
of Edmonstone ; 8. the Town of Musselburgh, the property be- 
longing to which is held of the Duke of Buccleuch. 

Eminent Men. — It is a curious circumstance that William Wal- 
ker, one of the most eminent portrait engravers in London, and 
Burnet, the most distinguished of all the historical picture en- 
gravers of this kingdom, — himself an eminent historical painter 
and writer on art, — should both have been bom in this parish. The 
rare art of sculpture can also claim from it the names of Alex- 
ander and John Ritchie, the latter of whom modelled the Glas- 
gow statue of Sir Walter Scott, and the mtch admired group of 
^* the Flood ;" and the former of whom, the favourite pupil of 
Thorwaldsen at Rome, has not disappointed those lic^s of fu* 
ture excellence which that great artist formed regarding him ; he 
has executed innumerable first rate busts, as well as many statues, 
monuments, and other works of art of the highest merits, amongst 
which may be mentioned the fine statue at (>)Idstream, and the 
Selkirkshire monument to the author of Waverley. Among those 
distinguished in arts or arms, who, although not natives of the pa- 
rish, have honoured it by choosing it as a place of residence, we may 
mention Sir David Dalrymple Lord Hailes, one of the foremost 
Scottish historians and antiquaries ; Professor Stuart, and his son 
Gilbert, the eminent historical essayist ; the great Lord Clive, and 
Sir Ralph Abercrombie, each of whom for a season were occupants 
of Loretto ; Major- General James Stirling, the captor of the stand- 
ard of the Inviucibles, who was domiciled in the parish since the 
termination of the war ; and Admiral Sir David Milne,, whose 
gallant conduct at the capture of the La Pique frigate is lastingly 
recorded in our naval annals, and who was second in command at 
the bombardment of Algiers. Logan, the poet, was educated at 
the grammar school of Musselburgh, as was also Lieutenant 
Drummond, the framer of the Reform Bill, and the inventor of 
" the Drummond lights.*' 



INVERESK. W5 

The name which in modern days has reflected the greatest lustre 
on this parish is that of David Macbeth Moir, Esq. the distin- 
guished '* Delta" of Blackwood's Magazine, who, amidst all the 
harassing duties of the medical profession, has found time to em- 
body in many chaste and touching strains, those *^ high imagin- 
ings" which visit the mind of genius ; as well as to stray into 
the paths of richest and broadest humour — witness *^ Mansie 
Wauch's" irresistible drolleries ; — whose laborious history of the 
art which he has himself so successfully studied, forms a most valu- 
able acquisition to the practitioner ; — whose songs in the recent re- 
publication of Burns^s Lyrics with music, take a deserved place 
beside those of the illustrious national minstrel ; — of whose genius 
the fruits are to be found scattered over every department of perio- 
dical literature ; and who, with the gifts of genius, has none of those 
defects of character which have too frequently sullied the bright- 
est talents. 

Parochial Registers. — The earliest entry in the parish records 
IS 1607. They have been pretty regularly kept since that period. 
The penmanship of many of the early registers is curiously ornate 
and beautiful ; but from inattention, several of the volumes have 
been much injured in consequence of getting loose in the binding. 
They consist of four sets, and contain the following number of vo- 
lumes : Minutes of Sederunt, 5 volumes, commencing at 1651 ; 
Baptisms, 13 volumes, commencing at 1607 ; Proclamations, 5 
volumes, commencing at 1690 ; Deaths, 6 volumes, commencing 
at 1751. 

Modern Buildings.^^TYie only building of a modem date worthy 
of notice is the new church of North Esk, the plan of which was 
furnished by William Burn, Esq. It is a handsome structure, 
finished in the interior with much elegance and taste, and is capa- 
ble of containing 1000 worshippers. The expense of its erection 
amounted to L. 2500; which, with the exception of a grant of 
Lb 375 from the General Assembly's Fund, and L. 200 from the 
Presbytery of Dalkeith, was raised by subscription. It was opened 
for public worship on the 9th September 1838. 

III. — Population. 
The population has greatly increased since the date of the for- 
mer Statistical Account 



In 1755, 


it was 


4645 


1792, 


. 


53f)2 


1811, 


. 


6993 


1821, 


. 


7836 


1831, 


- 


Srei ; males, 4257 ; females, 4704. 



286 EDINBaRGHSHIRE. 

The chief causes of the increase of population are the introduc- 
tion of various manufactories, and the increased extent to which 
coal has been wrought 

The number of families is 1892, of whom 1483 reside in the 
town, and 409 in the country part of the parish. 

The registered baptisms, marriages, and deaths, for the last seven 
years, are as follow : 



1832, 




164 Births. 


03 


Marriages. 


553 Deaths. 


1833, 




207 


79 


. 


250 


1834, 




190 


81 


• 


196 


1835, 




196 


60 


. 


161 


1836, 




184 


74 


. 


218 


1887, 




175 


69 


a 


261 


1838^ 


* 


182 


61 


• 


249 



The average number of illegitimate births annually is 1 1. 

The number of registered baptisms does not correspond exactly 
with the number of births, as a certain number of children die with- 
out baptism, and the Dissenters very generally neglect registration. 
There ought also to be a small deduction for the funerals from 
other parishes, which are recorded along with the deaths happen- 
ing in this parish. 

Amusements. — Archery, — A silver arrow, given formerly by the 
Magistrates of Musselburgh, to be shot for by the Royal Archers of 
Scotland, is the object of an annual competition on the Jinks in the 
month of August. The victor receives from the town L.1, 10s, and 
a riddle of claret, and is bound to append a medal of gold or silver 
to the arrow before the next competition. It has a series of such 
medals attached to it from 1603 to the present time, with the 
single exception of the perturbed 1746. ^ During these 236 years 
it has only been thrice gained by the same individual, by Dobie of 
Stonyhill, by Provost Drummond of Edinburgh, and lastly, by the 
late Sir Patrick Walker. It was shot for on the 10th of August 
1839, and gained by the Right Honourable the Earl of Dalhousie, 
in whose keeping it remains for a year. 

Golf.'^The ancient national game of golf continues a favourite 
amusement, for which the adjacent links are well adapted, so much 
so, that they have become a place of resort to many of the inha- 
bitants of Edinburgh, who come hither for the purpose of playing 
this healthful and exhilarating game. A golf club was formed in 
1760, and still continues to flourish, consisting of the principal 
gentlemen of the town and vicinity. A handsome silver cup is an- 
nually played for, the winner of which retains possession of it, and 
is captain of the club for one year, and attaches a gold or silver 
medal to it before the next competition. The game, from the dry- 



INVBRESK. 287 

ness of the links, can be played at all seasons, and affords to the 
inhabitants a delightful recreation. It is much to be deplored, how* 
ever, that an exercise in itself suflBciently stimulating, should fre« 
quently be prostituted to the purposes of gambling, and that so many 
of the young who are employed as eadies or club-carriers, should 
be initiated in the practices of vice partly from the evil example 
of those in whose gambling transactions they take a deep interest, 
and whom they in this respect on a smaller scale ludicrously imi- 
tate, and partly from the mistaken liberality of their employers, 
who, by extravagantly overpaying them for their services, not only 
furnish them with the means of vicious indulgence, but totally unfit 
them for the sober and steady industry of any laborious calling. 

General Character of the People. — Those peculiarities of charac- 
ter and habits which were wont to distinguish one district and town 
from another are here, as elsewhere, gradually becoming less appa- 
rent, from the facilities of communication with other parts of the 
country. A considerable number of families in the common ranks 
of life can boast of an ancient although humble descent, and hence 
there exists a certain feeling of an aristocratic description, which in 
a more sequestered situation might have degenerated into conceit ; 
and for the same reason, one prominent feature in the character of 
the middle classes is a laudable pride in the credit and respectabi- 
lity of the << honest town." The town population cannot be cha- 
racterized as universally distinguished for a scrupulous regard 
to cleanliness. Many of the houses are mean and squalid in 
the extreme, and, from being crowded together in narrow lanes 
or closes without a single foot of garden ground attached to them, 
uncleanly habits on the part of their occupants are to a certain ex- 
tent inevitable. These mean and comfortless houses exercise a 
powerful although indirect influence in degrading the character 
and in depressing the social condition of the labouring poor ; and 
to the want of cleanly and temperate habits amongst them, much 
of the distress which they suffer is undoubtedly to be traced. Of 
the people generally, however, it may be said that they enjoy in a 
reasonable degree the comforts and advantages of society. They 
appear contented with their condition, and have a just claim to the 
character of a moral and religious community. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — The parish contains about S571 acres, almost 

the whole being arable. There are few plantations, and with the 

exception of the policy of New Hailes, that of Pinkie, and part of 



288 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Dalkeith Park, the soil is almost all under cultivation* The farms 
are all well enclosed, and subdivided with stone walls, or well 
kept and thriving hedges ; and are in a state of the highest cul- 
ture. A common of considerable extent was many years ago di- 
vided, and is now private property. There is no meadow land. 
The ordinary length of leases is nineteen years. The principal 
crops sown are wheat, barley, and oats, with a small proportion of 
pease and beans ; potatoes and turnips also are extensively culti- 
vated. 

Ment of Land. — The rent of land is from L. 2 to L. 5 per acre, 
according to the quality and situation of the ground. < In some 
instances a part of the rent is paid in grain at the rate of the (iars' 
prices of the county. Only a small part of the land is let for 
grazing. The price of grazing for a cow is L« 6. The rental of 
the parish is L. 16,123. 

Rate of Wages. — The ordinary rate of wages is from 10s. to 
12s. per week for common labourers ; and from 16s. to L. 1 for 
artisans. Colliers are paid so much per ton of coals excavated.* 
The annual wages of a hind are L. 16 in money, 6^ bolls of meal, 
3 bolls of potatbes, a house and garden, and one month's meat in 
harvest 

Price of Provisions, — There are excellent butcher-markets, and 
the supply offish is abundant; but from our proximity to Edin- 
burgh, the price of provisions is high. Beef sells at 7d. per 
pound ; mutton at 7d. ; veal from 7d. to 8d. ; pork at 6d. Had- 
docks are sold at ^d. and Id. each ; cod from lOd. to Is.; her- 
rings from Od. to 8d. per dozen ; oysters from Is. 6d. to 2s« per 
hundred. 

Live-Stock. — There is no particular breed of cattle reared in 
the parish. The horses commonly used are of the Clydesdale 
breed. Sheep are of the Cheviot and Leicester breeds. Lambs 
of all descriptions are reared for the markets. A considerable 
quantity of mutton has, of late years, been sent by steam to the 
London market 

Htisbandry. — An improved system of husbandry prevails. 
Some of the farms are of large extent* under the management of 
enlightened, enterprizing, and skilful tenants. Tile-draining has 
recently been practised to a considerable extent, and with com- 

* The system of paying the miners* wages on alternate Saturday nights, appears 
liable to strong objections, — the following day being devoted by many, not to their re* 
ligious duties, but to intemperate indulgence ; Monday also being in consequence 
not unfrequently spent in a total relaxation frotn work. 

3 



INVERESK. 2S9 

plete success. The expense of draining per acre, the drains 18 
feet apart, may be estimated at about L. 8, 15s. 

By this important improvement, by a skilful application of ma- 
nures, and by a judicious selection of the best seeds, as well as by 
adopting the practice of drilling grain crops, the produce of the 
land has been greatly increased. Turnip husbandry is success- 
fully practised : the Swedish variety appears to thrive particularly 
well. In a good many instances, the crop is eaten off the land by 
sheep, a system which is found materially to improve light sandy 
soils. The farm-houses and steadings are of a substantial, im- 
proved, and superior description, more especially those erected on 
the property of His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch, whose truly 
patriotic maxim, ^^ live and let live," is here acted upon in the 
same liberal spirit as elsewhere. On one farm, possessed by Mr 
James Vernor, a steam-engine has been erected for thrashing. * 
The following succession of crops is very generally observed : 1. 
potatoes or turnips ; 2. wheat or barley sown with grass seeds ; S. 
if not kept in pasture, the grass is cut green, or made into hay ; 
4. if made into hay then succeeded by a crop of oats. Besides 
lime and dung, and compost of lime and earth, a considerable 
quantity of rape cake, and crushed bones, landed at Fisherrow, has 
lately been used as manure. 

Coal Mines, — The whole of the coal mines in the parish are 
either the property of Sir John Hope, Bart, or are rented by him. 
The total number of persons employed at these works, including 
women and children, is about 572. The quantity of coal raised 
in the course of one year amounts to 54,000 tons, which, at the 
rate of 5d. per cwt., will produce the sum of L. 22,500. 

Fishings* — There is a salmon-fishery at the mouth of the Esk 
by means of stake-nets. The quantity taken in a season is small. 
The right of fishing, which belongs to the town, lets at a rent of 
L. 20 per annum. The season begins on the 1st of February, 
and closes on the 15th of September. 

Fisherrow has long been distinguished for its race of hardy and 
industrious fishermen. The number of boats employed is 28^ 
averaging from 18 to 22 tons; they are from 33 to 37 feet long, 
from 10 to 13 feet wide, and about 5^ feet deep. Each of these 
boats requires five men, which makes the number of fishermen 
140. The same owners have an equal number of small boats. 
•About the middle of July they prepare their boats for the Caith- 

* There are upwards of a dozen steam-engines in the parish employed for various 
purposes. 

BDINBUR6H. T 



290 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ness fishing, from which they return, towards the middle of Sep- 
tember. For a month after they return, few or no fish are to 
be got. They then haul down their small boats to fish off North 
Berwick and GuUan till the herrings come into the Frith, which 
is generally in December ; wheji they go with their large boats 
to deep sea fishing, about 25 to 30 mileseast of the Isle of May. 
A boat makes in good weather two trips in a week. In April fish 
are scarce ; about the end of May they are more plentiful, and 
continue so till July, when the Caithness fishing commences. In 
favourable seasons the average amount of each boat's fishing is 
about 250 crans at 9s. per cran. Some of the owners of boats 
are in very comfortable circumstances ; and although somewhat 
rough and unpolished in their manners, they are, nevertheless^ 
distinguished for much warmth and kindliness of feeling, for frank- 
ness, blunt honesty, and strong affections. Their wives and daugh- 
ters are occupied in procuring bait, in baiting the lines, and dis- 
posing of the fish. Their character, habits, and personal appear- 
ance are so peculiar, that it has been supposed they were a distinct 
race, descended probably from foreign settlers, whose manners 
they still retain. It is obvious, however, that their character and 
manners, as is the case with other classes, are modified by circum- 
stances, the chief of which are, their always marrying amongst their 
own caste^ and their laborious occupation, which imparts to them 
an uncommonly robust and masculine aspect.^ 

Gardens. — This parish has long been distinguished for the ex- 
cellence of its gardens. Besides those belonging to private fa- 
milies, there is a considerable extent of ground in the immediate 
vicinity of the town, occupied as maU-gardens^ as they are called, 
the produce of which is sold in the Edinburgh and Glasgow mar- 
kets. It may afford some idea of the value and extent of these, to 
state that one tenant of a garden pays L. 100 per annum of rent. 
Musselburgh continues to enjoy a high reputation for leek seed. 
Formerly, small fortunes were realized by the 'market-gardeners 
here, chiefly by the sale of flowers ; at present, many most respect- 
able individuals prosper in the same profession, edibles being, how- 
ever, their chief source of profit. 

Prodttce.— The annual value of agricultural produce may be con- 
jectured to be as follows : 

• For some rcmarkB on this peculiar class of people of a more genera] character 
than would be admissible in a statistical work, the reader is referred to Cbambers'i 
Edinburgh Journal, Vol. vi. p. 258. 

4 



.J 



INVERESK. 291 

( 

Annual value of corn, - « L. 21,000 

grass, green crop, &c. J 6,000 

Total, L. 37,000 

Manufactures. — The manufactures, which until recent years had 
been inconsiderable, have of late greatly increased. They consist 
chiefly of sail-cloth, hair-cloth, fishing-nets, hats, and leather. 
There are also two extensive works for the making of bricks and 
tiles, a salt-work, and a pottery at which the coarser sorts of ware 
are mostly manufactured. Dyeing, which was formerly one of the 
principal trades carried on here, is now confined to one or two in- 
dividuals. 

SaiMoth. — A sail-cloth manufactory was first established on a 
small scale in 1811, and has since progressively increased to a 
considerable extent. The buildings for the spinning department 
have recei^ly been enlarged, and a steam-engine of 55 horse 
power erected. The sail-cloth manufactured is for the home mar- 
ket, and of superior quality, being principally made for the use 
of the British navy, 

Hair^cloth, — A manufactory of hair-cloth was introduced about 
1820. It has been gradually increasing since that period, under 
the active management of the proprietor, Mr Porteous, and at present 
employs nearly 200 persons, men, women, and children. The prin- 
cipal articles manufactured are satin and &ncy figured hair-cloth, 
curled hair, hair kiln-cloth, hair-lines, and all kinds of fishing hair, 
girth-web, ropes, twines, &c. Horse-hair carpeting, used in the 
House of Commons, on the recommendation of Dr D. B. Reid, is 
also manufactured here. These'goods are sent to London, and other 
parts of England, Dublin, and the principal populousctowns in Ireland^ 
and all parts of Scotland. A considerable trade at one time exist- 
ed in the exportation of satin hair-cloth, and other articles con- 
nected with the horse-hair manufacture, but this is now very limit- 
ed, the different countries to which it was sent having for some 
time made their own goods. Another manufactory of the same 
kind has recently been established by a different individual, at 
which, however, there is but a small number of hands employed. 

Fishing-nets, — A manufactory of fishing-nets was established 
in 1820, by the ingenious inventor of a loom for weaving them, 
Mr Paterson, formerly of the commissariat This invention, which 
he completed after many years of laborious experiment, promises 
to reward his ingenuity and perseverance, by gradually super- 
seding the tedious process of hand-knitling. He has now 18 looms 



292 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

at work; each loom produces from 18 to 25 yards of netting per 
day. A spinning machine is attached to the work ; both together 
employ 52 hands; and during the last year, 30 tons of hemp have 
been manufactured. 

It is a curious coincidence, that, in 1834, Mr N. G. Robinson, 
an English gentleman, who has been for some time resident in this 
parish, without any communication with Mr Paterson, also com- 
pleted a similar invention, differing, however, in this, that his ma- 
chinery forms a knot of quite another description. He has already 
six looms in operation, and meditates a considerable extension of 
his manufactory. He has also erected a machine for spinning, 
and at this and the present number of looms, 23 hands are em- 
ployed, and 14 tons pf hemp annually manufactured. 

Brewery and Distillery. — There is at present only one brewery 
in operation, belonging to Mr William Whitelaw, another hav- 
ing recently been stopped. The average quantity of malt, 
which is manufactured by himself, annually consumed, is 1744 
quarters. The ale is sent to all the principal towns in Scotland, 
and to London, Hull, and Newcastle, as well as to the East and 
West Indies. The distillery is the property of W, Aitchison, 
Esq. of Drummore, who declines permitting any information to be 
furnished regarding it. 

7an7ier/f5.-f- There are three extensive tanning and currying 
works carried on, at which the quantity of leather manufactured 
has been steadily on the increase. The raw hides are procured 
from the Edinburgh market, from Russia, and Hamburgh : the 
markets for the manufactured articles are chiefly Edinburgh, Glas- 
gow, and London. One of the houses sends goods to almost every 
town in Scotland. The quantity of bark annually consumed 
amounts to about 1000 tons, and is procured from England, Bel- 
gium, Germany, Holland, and one particular sort from Smyrna. 
The number of hands employed in this trade is from 70 to 80, of 
these 25 are curriers, who can earn from 14s. to L. 1, 4s. per week: 
the wages of tanners may be from 10s. to 15s. 

Bone-manure. — The manufacture of bone-manure has of late 
years added considerably to the amount of our imports and the 
trade of the place. One house last year imported above 1200 tons 
from Russia, Prussia, and the Mediterranean. The value of the 
raw material, as imported, runs from L. 5 to L. 6 per ton ; when 
ground it is sold at from L. 1, Is. to L. 1, 3s. per imperial quarter; 
Rape-cake and linseed-cake are also extensively imported: the 



INVERESK. 



293 



former, used for manure, costs from L. 5, 10s. to L. 6, 10s. per 
ton; — the latter, used in feeding cattle, from L. 7 to L. 8, 10s. 

Commerce. — In the charter granted by the Earl of Lauderdale 
in 1670, the dues arising from the harbour are mentioned as part 
of the revenue. Previous to 1806, the harbour wa3 enclosed by 
bulwarks of dry stone.; since that period a substantial quay has 
been built, and the trade has in consequence increased. Former- 
ly a very extensive trade was carried on by the inhabitants of Mus- 
selburgh with Holland, and an annual fair was held which lasted 
for a number of days in succession. The shallowness of the har- 
bour, in which there is only 4^ feet of water at neap-tides, prevents 
all vessels but those of light burden from entering for the purposes 
of trade. There is no vessel belonging to the port ; those which 
resort to it, besides coasting vessels belonging to this country, are 
chiefly Dutch, Prussian, and Norwegian. Their cargoes consist 
of rape and oil-cake, bone-dust, grain, wood, bark, hides, &c. 
The shore dues are moderate on all imports excepting timber, 
which pays one piece of the hundred. These dues let for about 
L. 176 per annum. Since building the new quay, the magistrates 
also levy 2d. per register ton on all vessels entering the harbour, 
which may amount to L. 188 per annum. The following tables 
of imports and exports for the years 1831 and 1839 will shew the 
progressive increase of trade : 

Imports and exports from 1st October 1830 to 1st October 1831, 

202 vessels measuring 12,406 register tons. 

Imports, — Foreign. Import*, — Coattwiae. 

"* " Tons. Cwt, 

Bark, - - 108 

Bone manure, - 109 

Clay, - - J 94 

Cinders, - . 103 

Flint, - . 122 

Iron, - - 413 10 

Peats, . - 40 

Rock salt, - 30 

Rags, . - 16 5 

Empty casks from London, 603 
Yeast casks, - 20 

Bricks, - 11,000 

PaTement, - 26,500 feet. 

Slates, - 307,160 

Brushwood for powder works, 298 tons. 
Larch timber, - 3,720 cubic feet. 
Fir deals, - 18,284 sup. feet. 

Potatoes, - 483 bolls. 

{Wheat, 3^ qrs. ] 

Barley, 1555 { 

Beans & pease, 53 I 2759 

Oats, 497 I qrs. 

Malt, 300 J 



4b 




Tons. Cwt. 


Bark, 


• 


2799 6 


Rape and oiUcake, 


366 9 


Hides, 


. 


4 10 


Goat skins, 


. 


1013 pieces. 




• 


Cub. feet. 


Timber from British Prov 


inces, 30,887 




the Baltic, 


- 15,081 




Norway, 


1,175 


Norway battens, 


8708 



294 • EDINBURGHSHIRE. 





Exports 


1880-31, 


Bricks, 


• 


- 11,000 


Oats, 


- 


180 bolls. 


Coals, 


. 


241 tons. 


Staves, 


. 


2900 


Tiles, 


- 


500 



i 



Imports from20ffiS€ptemher 1838 to 20ik 

September 1839. 
Total Foreign, (regd. ton.) 5797 
Coastwise, - 6371 

12108 

Exports for the Mime period* 
Total, (registered tonnage) 2266 2266 



14374 

The foreign imports for the last year have consisted chiefly of 
grain, oil-cake, rags, Norway timber, bark, hides, and bones for 
manure ; those coastwise, of grain, bark, pavement, slates, stones, 
wood, mineral salt, fuller's earth, and potter's clay. The exports 
have been principally coals. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Villages, — Besides the populous towns of Musselburgh and 

Fisherrow, there are several villages in the parish. Near the 
eastern boundary are Westpans and Walliford, the former chief- 
ly inhabited by colliers, containing a population of nearly 300 ; and 
on the west' are the villages of Old and New Craighall, contain- 
ing together a population little short of 1000, also inhabited by 
colliers. 

Means of Communication, — The London road, which intersects 
the parish throughout its whole length on the north, affords an easy 
means of communication with Edinburgh on the one side, and with 
the towns of Haddington and Dunbar on the other. There are also 
excellent roads leading to Dalkeith, and the lime-kilns to the 
south. The London Mail passes daily through Musselburgh; 
also coaches from Dunbar, North- Berwick, and Haddington ; and 
there are Musselburgh and Railway coaches to Edinburgh almost 
every hour. The Edinburgh and Dalkeith Railway, opened for 
the conveyance of passengers in 1832, passes near the western 
boundary of the parish, and is joined by a branch from Fisherrow 
at the distance of about a mile from the harbour. A spirited at- 
tempt was made some years ago to ply a steamer between Fisher- 
row and Berwick, but failed, owing to the inconvenient nature of 
the harbour as a landing-place. 

Harbour. — The harbour evidently bad been originally construct- 
ed to afford safety for fishing-boats, and is only adapted to vessels 
of small size ; a considerable number of that description frequent 
it, both foreign and in the coasting trade. It stands on the land- 
edge of an extensive flat of loose sand, which is drifl;ed into it with 
the run of the tides ; and as there is no run of water. from the land 
to wash it out, the sand accumulates two or three feet higher with- 



INVEUESK. 295 

in the harbour than its height outside the pier. In order to re- 
medy this, it was suggested that a reservoir should be constructed 
to the east of the pier, from the bottom of which a cast-iron pipe 
was to be carried into the harbour through an archway in the pier 
of 7 feet high and of the same width. This archway being left 
open to the run of the tides through the harbour would, it was sup- 
posed, aid the effect of the water from the reservoir in clearing out 
the drifted sand. Only one-half of thif proposal was adopted : 
an archway was opened through the pier, but as it was 430on dis* 
covered that this, in place of clearing the harbour, rather increas- 
ed the deposit of sand, it was after a short trial closed up. The 
only practicable way of gaining a greater depth of water appears 
to be to extend the present pier ; and as the trade of the port has 
latterly been so much on the increase, this, in all likelihood, will 
be done. No possible outlay, however, can ever render it a good 
harbour. 

Bridges. — About 300 yards below the old Roman bridge, which 
is now used only by foot-passengers, and which, if carefully pre- 
served, as at present, may continue to span the river for]]centuries 
to come, an elegant new bridge, consisting of five elliptic arches, 
planned by Sir John Rennie, the late celebrated engineer, was 
erected in 1806-7. This handsome structure, across which the 
London post-road passes, is a great ornament to the town, and af- 
fords an excellent communication between Musselburgh and Fisher- 
row. By two wooden bridges still lower, the intercourse is ren- 
dered as convenient and easv as could be desired. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The old church of St Michael's, having 
become both ruinous and inadequate for the proper accommoda- 
tion of a rapidly increasing population, was taken down, and the 
present church erected on the same site. It was opened for pub- 
lic worship in 1806. The size of it is 82 by 56 feet within walls. 
It has two galleries, and is seated for 2400, allowing eighteen 
inches for each individual. The number which it can actually con- 
tain may be about 3000. It is much to be regretted that advan- 
tage was not taken of the opportunity which the erection of a new 
church afforded, of placing it in a situation more convenietit for 
the large body of the parishioners ; and not less must it continue 
to be the subject both of wonder and regret that one of the finest 
and most commanding situations which it is possible to con- 
ceive, should have been disfigured with a clumsy piece of archi- 
tecture, totally destitute of the slightest pretensions to elegance. 



296 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

From the want of painting and other necessary repairs, the in« 
terior of the building is now quite in keeping with its exterior. 
The steeple, the only redeeming feature in the structure, forms an 
important land-mark, and a§ such, its erection was contributed to 
by the Commissioners for the Northern Lighthouses. The bell, 
than which no one of a finer tone breaks the stillness of the Sab- 
bath throughout Scotland, bears the following inscription : Soli • 

DEO . GLORIA . MICHASL . BYRGERHVYS . ME • FECIT. AnOO 

Domini 1624. Innervijsk . Kirk. 

The church-yard is under the management of the heritors and 
town-council, the charge of it having been resigned by the kirk- 
session in 1825. To whatever cause owing, it must be confessed 
that its general aspect does not reflect the highest credit on their 
management. Although the situation is naturally fine, and many 
very handsome monuments have been erected, still the dilapidated 
state of the railings, and a great part of the wall being left in aa 
unfinished state, without a coping, combine in giving it a ruinous 
and neglected appearance. 

Besides the parish church, and the new church built in Fisher- 
row, to which is attached the quoad sacra parish of North £sk» 
so called by a singular misapplication of terms, there are four 
places of worship within the parish, an Episcopal chapel, and three 
meeting-houses connected with the following bodies of Dissenters^ 
' the Associate Burghers, the Belief, and the Independents. 

The numbers connected with the various religious denominations 
are as follow: Established Church, 5876; Episcopalians, 153; 
Belief, 1468 ; Secession, 789 ; Independents, 144 ; belonging to 
other denominations, 112. 

The manse, which is a commodious dwelling, was built in 1807. 
Attached to it are a garden and small field, making in all about an 
acre, which were given by the town of Musselburgh to* the minis- 
ter of the parish when the former manse was built in 1681, for a 
small addition made to which in 1758 there is paid a feu^duty of 
Is. 6d. yearly. The glebe consists of 5^ acres ; its yearly value 
may be L. 22. The stipend, now all converted into grain, is 2 
chalders of wheat, 9 of barley, and 9 of oatmeal, with L. 15 for 
communion elements. His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch is pa- 
tron.* 

* The following is a list of the ministers of this parish from the Reformation : 
1. Mr Andrew Kackhall, admitted previous to 1591. died in 1609; 2. Mr Adam 
Colt; and, 3. his son, Mr Oliver Colt ; who, together filled up the rest of that cen- 
tury till 1679 ; 4. Mr Arthur Miller, ordained 1680 ; 5. Mr Richard Howiesoni or- 



INVERESK. 297 

The number of communicants in the Established Church was 
in 1838, 974; in 1839, 768; the decrease is owing to the erec- 
tion of the quoad sacra parish. 

Since 1702 there has been an assistant, the funds for whose 
support are very inadequate, and who is therefore appointed to the 
joint offices of session- clerk and assistant to the minister, an ar- 
rangement certainly far from desirable. A missionary hfis also 
been employed since May last, who labours partly in Westpans, 
and partly in Fisherrow. 

Education. — Musselburgh has long been celebrated for the ex- 
cellence of its seminaries. Owing to the healthiness of the si- 
tuation, and its vicinity to Edinburgh, whence the best masters 
for modern languages, music, drawing, and other accomplishments 
are easily procured, boarding establishments for young ladies and 
gentlemen have met with great encouragement. A flourishing 
establishment of this description has for a considerable number of 
years been conducted by the Rev. T. Langhorn, Episcopal minis- 
ter. There is no parish school, but it is hoped that so great a 
want will ere long be supplied. The grammar school is under 
the patronage of the magistrates and town-council of Musselburgh, 
who give the rector a salary of L. 27, 4s. 6d., together with a 
house and school-room. Under the excellent management of the 
present rector, Mr Trotter, this seminary bids fair to attain to even 
more than its former celebrity.* The whole of his present ac- 
commodation for boarders is under requisition, and from the in- 
crease of the number of scholars the school requires to be enlarged. 
Unfortunately, although erected only four years ago, it was, on a 
principle of unwise economy, made both deficient in size and mean 
in external appearance, and instead of being rendered an ornament 
to the town, it is placed in a situation where it is scarcely visible 
from the main street. There are two English schools also esta- 
blished by the magistrates and town-council, from whom the 
teachers receive salaries; the one in Musselburgh receives L. 12. 
with a house, the other in Fisherrow, including house rent, L. 17. 
Sir John Hope has established two schools at Old and New Craig- 

dained 1690; 6. Mr John Williamson, ordained 1701| died 1799 ; 7. Mr Frederick 
Carmichael, admitted 1739, translated to Edinburgh 1747-8 ; Dr Alexander Carlyle, 
ordained in 1748, died in 1805; 9. The present incumbent, Dr Leslie Moodie, ad- 
mitted 1806, to whom Mr J. G-. Bereridge was appointed assistant and successor in 
J836. 

* Many men of eminence hare received their education at tlie grammar school of 
Musselburgh. A club composed of such individuals have periodical social meetings 
in the capital, in order to revive the recollections of school days. 



298 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

hall ; there is one at Wallifordi established by the family of W. 
Aitcfaison, Esq. of Drummore ; one at Westpans, established by 
Sir George Grant Snttie, for the children of such of his workmen 
as reside there ; and one for girls in Musselburgh, supported by 
subscription. The teachers of all the other schools depend solely 
on the school-fees. The total number of schools in the parish is 
14. The school-fees are as follows : — English reading, 5s. per 
quarter; writing, 7s.; arithmetic, 9s. 6d.; Latin,5s.; French, 21s. 
An infant school has recently been established by the Rey. Alex- 
ander Davidson, minister of the quoad sacra parish, which has 
hitherto been successful, and is well attended. The Sunday schools 
connected with the Established Church, including one in connec- 
tion with the new church, amount to 7, at which upwards of 
800 children receive religious instruction, many of whom, frpm the 
unwillingness or inability of their parents, would otherwise be left 
in a great measure uninstructed. There are few altogether unable 
to read, but a considerable number, whose education has been so 
defective that, although able with difficulty to read the Scriptures, 
they derive little benefit from what they read. There is in gene- 
ral a sufficient anxiety to obtain the benefits of education, but an 
increasing tendency on the part of parents is observable to shift 
the burden of paying for the instruction of their children upon the 
shoulders of the benevolent.* 

Libraries. — A Subscription Library, containingupwardsof 1300 
volumes, which was established in 1812, still continues to flourish. 
The annual contribution of each subscriber is 6s. There is also 
a Circulating Library, consisting of 1200 volumes, the property of 
Mr Walker, bookseller, whose printing-press affords a convenient 
facility in preparing circulars, advertisements, &c. At the read- 
ing-room the leading London and Edinburgh newspapers are re- 
ceived. 

Friendly Societies. — Various friendly societies exist in Mussel- 
burgh and Fisherrow, both yearly and permanent Of the latter 
kind are. the following, — the Youths' Caledonian, Hammermen, 'St 

* Prior to 1609, a music sctiool was endowed by James VT. The following quo« 
tation from the Maitland Club Book will explain why it is ilbt included in the ac- 
count of the seminaries of this parish. " Item, thair is ane musick schoole in Mus- 
silburgh, quhainrnto vmquhile King James, quha lait deccissit, of worthie memorie, 
giftit igc. merkis money, furth of the yeirlie dewtie of the erectit lordcship of New- 
botle. This pensioun wes gcvin be the vmquhile Kingis Majestie to Tmquhile Mr 
Andro Blakhall, minister for the tyme at' the said kirk of Mussilburgh, and to his 
sone Mr Andro Blakhall, present minister at Abirlady, to the Tse and behove of the 
said musick schoole, and the said Mr Andro hes sauld and disponit the saidpentioun 
sua that the parochine and the schoole is frustrat of his Majestie*R gift.*^ 



INVEUESK. 299 

John\ Aitcbison's Haven, Gardeners, Fishermen. Of the bene- 
fits resulting from these there can be no doubt, but it must be ac- 
knowledged that the yearly societies in many instances prove the 
reverse of beneficial to their members. The money is generally 
deposited in the hands of grocers and spirit-dealers, who, besides 
exacting the highest price for goods supplied on the credit of de- 
posits, offer a strong temptation to excess, by supplying, on trust, 
the means of intoxication when the individual's money may have 
run short. A Clothing Society exists under the patronage of a 
number of benevolent ladies connected with the parish : and a 
soup-kitchen has for several years been established dunng the 
winter. 

Savings Bank.^^K Savings Bank was instituted in 1815, and al- 
though the labouring classes, partly from ignorance, partly from 
improvidence, do not avail themselves to so great an extent as is 
desirable of the advantages which it offers them, yet it has upon 
the whole been attended with success, and has conferred great be- 
nefits upon such as had prudence and foresight enough to deposit 
a part of their earnings. Since its commencement the total 
number of depositors has been 1275, the amount of sums depo- 
sj^ted, L. 22,246, 18s. lid. During the last year 30 depositors 
have been paid up, 42 new depositors have opened accounts, 
and there are altogether 195 open accounts with the establish- 
ment. 

The Western Bank and the Commercial Bank of Edinburgh 
have each a branch established here. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers presently 
on the roll is 320, the highest allowance to each of whom is 3s. 6d., 
and the lowest 6d. per week. The amount of money distributed year- 
ly is L. 624. Nine insane persons are supported by the parish at 
an expense of L. 139, 9s. 1\A. per annum. There is distributed 
to occasional poor between L. 3 and L. 4. Fifty poor children are 
educated at the expense of the parish ; that expense amounts year- 
ly to L. 26, 16s. 7d. 

The collections at the church doors during the three last years 
have been as follow:— In 1836, L. 151, 18s. ll^d.; in 1837, 
L. 132, 8s. lid. ; in 1838, L. 147, 7s. 0|d. This includes col- 
lections for religious purposes. 

The assessments for these years were as follow : — 1 836, L. 1 ] Q5^ 
lis. 5d. ; 1837, L.995, 13& 8d. ; 1838, L. 905, 16s. Ojd. The 
assessment 19 levied upon the real rental, one-half being payable 



300 EDINBUUGHSHIRE. 

by the landlord and the other half by the tenant. When the pro- 
perty is houses one-fourth is deducted from the real rent. The 
rate of assessment in 1836 was Is. Id. per pound; in 1837, lid.; 
in 1838, lOd. The highest rate to which the assessment has ever 
reached was Is. 2d. per pound, which would produce nearly L. 1400- 
This unusually high rate was rendered necessary by the severe vi- 
sitation of cholera, which, besides adding greatly to the number 
of paupers, left many orphan children chargeable on the parish. 
The heritors, since 1834, have taken the chief management of the 
poor, a committee of their number bejpg appointed for that pur- 
pose, with whom the members of the kirk-session are expected to 
co-operate. This committee holds monthly meetings for revising 
the roll and transacting other business in connection with the poor. 
No indisposition but the reverse is manifested towards receiving 
parochial relief, and what is bestowed is in most instances regard- 
ed by the poor not so much as charitable aid, as a debt to which 
they have a direct and undoubted claim. 

About ten years ago, a society was formed for the suppression 
of begging, which, during the short time it was in operation, 'did 
much to correct the evils arising from the influx of vagrants and 
common beggars, and clearly demonstrated the great benefit whi<j}i 
might be reaped by a strict adherence to the plan of supplying, 
through a trustworthy person, the immediate wants of the necessi- 
tous, accommodating them if necessary with a night's lodging, and 
then, without permitting them to solicit charity, seeing. them out 
of the town. During the first year, there were thus relieved of 
men, women, and children, 1036, and that at an expense of only 
L. 8, 10s. 3d. The salary of the officer was, of course, the chief 
expense, and as the public both neglected to contribute to the 
funds, and also returned to the practice of giving indiscriminately 
to persons of whose characters and circumstances they were igno- 
rant, the society was unfortunately broken up. 

Bruc^s Fund* — This charitable endowment, which, under a con- 
tinued system of proper management, will undoubtedly prove a 
great permanent benefit to the poor of the burgh, was instituted 
by the late Charles Key Bruce, Esq., M. D., sometime of Phila- 
delphia, United States, who had received his education in Mus- 
selburgh. By his settlement, dated in 1826, he bequeathed 
^* L. 2000 Sterling, as a permanent fund, the interest of which to 
be applied to the relief of the poor of the town of Musselburgh." 
This sum was placed by Dr Bruce's executors in Chancery, from 



INVERESK, 301 

whence it was obtained only in terms of an arrangement regarding 
its investment and administration, approved of by the Court of 
Chancery. The chief and second magistrates of the burgh, the 
minister, and ordained assistant minister of Inveresk, and the 
Sheriff of the county, are ex officio trustees. Dr Bruce's legatees 
having been declared entitled to a proportional share of the resi- 
due of his estate, several additions have been made to the original 
sum ; these, with interest which accrued before the money was 
obtained, have increased the amount, which is now invested in 
L. 3015, three per cents, reduced. The trustees apply the year- 
ly produce for the beneGt of the poor of the town : 1. one-half in 
supplying with coals, meal, flannel, or money, such aged and in* 
firm persons as may be selected by them ; 2. two-sis^ths for edu- 
cating poor destitute orphans, and the children of such poor per- 
sons as they may select ; and 3. the remaining sixth in clothing 
such children. The good effected by this sum will form an im* 
perishable memorial of the generous donor. 

Hastie*s Fund, — This fund has not yet come into operation, 
neither is its amount yet known, but eventually, on the death of 
several annuitants, it may become of some importance. By a deed 
of settlement executed by George Hastie, Esq. Midcalder, who 
died in 1 832, his trustees are directed, after the purposes of the 
trust are fulfilled, to distribute the reversion of his estate amongst 
the kirk-sessions of the Established Church, and the Secession 
church-sessions in the parishes of Inveresk and Tranent, in the pro- 
portion of six-tenths to Inveresk, and four-tenths to Tranent. 
This money, which he directed to be called " Hastie's Fund," is to 
be committed to the management of the above-mentioned bodies for 
the purpose of being lent out at interest to decent tradesmen or other 
industrious persons within their respective parishes, in such sums as 
these persons may require, and can find security for; and the benevo- 
lent bequeather recommends that a preference should be given 
to young men beginning business. He also directs that a factor 
shall be appointed for the purpose of transacting the business of 
the fund, who is to receive one-half of the annual interest, the 
other half is to be converted into stock or principal. 

Prison, — The prison, attached to the town hall, and for the sa- 
crilegious erection of which, with the consecrated stones of Our 
Lady of Loretto's chapel, the thunders of the Vatican were long 
duly fulminated against the burgh, consists of three rooms, a 
debtor's room, a lock-up, and another cell. It is believed to be 



302 KDINBURGHSHIRE. 

quite secure. 'J'he average number of debtors annually confined, 
many of them for trifling sums, is 10. The number of other pri- 
soners is considerable, owing to the situation of the town upon the 
great thorough&re to the east and south.* 

The system of police, although much yet remains to be done, has 
recently undergone very great improvement under the direction ofthe 
active, intelligent, and indefatigable superintendant, Mr List ; and a 
set of records which he has commenced, connected with the prison, 
will in time furnish, on a limited scale, a valuable source of infor- 
mation on the statistics of crime. These records consist of four sepa- 
rate volumes for the different descriptions of prisoners. Opposite the 
name of each prisoner, are inserted in various columns, their resi- 
dence, occupation, date of committal, whether previously commit- 
ted, the offence, whether drunk or sober when committed, state of 
education as regards reading and writing, age, description minute- 
ly marked, and general character. 

In the cleaning department, much remains to be accomplished, 
in order to take away from us the too well merited reproach of 
Scotch nastiness. Vast numbers of slaughtered sheep hung up 
entire in ghastly rows continue to offend the eye along all the tho- 
roughfares : the filthy puddle generative of disease too frequently 
stagnates in the densely populated closes, and the detestable ha- 
bits in which the children of the common orders are reared i^annot 
be too strongly reprobated. 

Fairs, — There is only one fair held throughout the year, which 
lasts for two days, and which might be discontinued, no traffic be« 
ing carried on at it ; and not only the two fair days, but the rest of 
the week being spent in idleness by many of the working-classes, 
a strong temptation is ofiered to drunkenness. On the second fair 
day, there are races on the links, and other popular amusements. 
Within the last fifty years, this fair was a scene of general resort, 
and most extensive sales were transacted iu cattle, linen, and wool- 
len goods, and the various articles of household use, but all this is 
changed ; the transactions of business have given place to holiday 
amusements. 

Inns and Ale-houses, — The " Musselburgh Arms," an old- 

* There is extant a list of all the rebel prisoners received into custody at the jail 
here* between the 19th February 1746, and the 1 3th September of the tame year, 
in which are recorded the time of their capture, the place where taken, the expense 
of their subsistence, and other particulars. They seem not to have been treated with 
any ceremony, as the Iblbwing indorsement on this document by the town treasurer 
seems to hint, *< ffor ttraw to ye prisoners, L. 5, Ss.*' 



INVEUESK. 303 

established and well-conducted house, is the chief inn, and affords 
the bes^f accommodation. There are no fewer than 85 houses 
licensed for the retail of ardent spirits within the parish — a number 
altogether disproportioned to the population. The mischiefs aris- 
ing from the unlimited extent to which spirit licenses are granted 
are incalculable; this, together with the practice of selling ardent 
spirits on the Lord's day — a practice which cannot be too severely 
reprehended — is productive of the most injurious consequences, 
particularly to the labouring classes. Modern improvers of society 
say, destroy the taste for spirituous liquors ; but certainly it is 
equally reasonable to say, destroy the opportunity of obtaining 
them. Justices of the Peace and Magistrates of burghs have 
not sufficiently attended to the importance of this, and to such 
inattention may, in a great measure, be traced the rapid increase 
of poor's rates. It was surely in a moment of no common infatua* 
tion, that Parliament vested the power of granting spirit licenses 
in the hands of the magistrates of burghs. 

FueL — The only fuel used is coal, which is got within the pa- 
rish or in the immediate vicinity. Small quantities of English 
coal also are landed at Fisherrow harbour. The price of the for- 
mer is from Ifd. to 5Jd. per cwt. at the pit's mouth, that of the 
latter is about L. 1 per ton. 

Gas Work, — A Gas Work was established by a joint stock Com- 
pany in 1831, from which Portobello is also supplied. Gas is in 
general use both in shops and places of business, and in dwelling- 
houses. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
This parish has shared with others in the vast changes and im- 
provements which have taken place since the date of the former 
Statistical Account. Its character has undergone almost a 
total transformation. The plough has long ago invaded the site 
of its extensive barracks, which had often accommodated upwards 
of 2000 men,* and of those veterans who here found a retreat at 
the close of the war few now remain. In the peaceful arts of life, 
however, a change for the better is not less striking ; manufactures 
have sprung up ; trade and commerce have increased ; agricul- 
ture is prosecuted with superior skill, new zeal, and far greater 
success. The means of existence are more abundantly supplied ; 

* So completely did the breaking up of the camp alter the aspect of the place, that 
when the last regiment marched out, a wag wrote over the walls, ** A town to let, 
apply to Bailie Stewart." 



304 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

luxuries are more widely diffused, and comforts unknown to our 
forefathers are enjoyed by the humblest of the people, jlabits of 
intemperance, however, it is to be feared, have become more com- 
mon, and form the chief barrier in the way of social improvement. 
Wages have been greatly raised, but the style of living has be- 
come more expensive ; recklessness and improvidence are more 
common characteristics of the labouring classes, and pauperism 
has consequently been on the increase. The principal improve- 
ment of which the system of agriculture seems susceptible is a 
still farther extension of the system of tile-draining, by which the 
inferior soils will be rendered more productive. Where the sup- 
ply of coal is so abundant, the improvement of the harbour would 
unquestionably increase trade and manufactures ; and a more 
complete education bestowed upon the children of the poor, would 
produce a greater refinement of manners, conduct more strictly 
moral, and habits of economy, sobriety, and industry. 
October 1839. 



PARISH OF WEST CALDER. 

PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. WILLIAM LEARMONTH, A.M. MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History, 
Boundaries. — West Calder is bounded on the east by Mid- 

Calder; on the south, by Linton and Dunsyre; on the west, by 
Carnwath and Cambusnethan ; and on the north, by Whitburn and 
Livingstone, which last are separated from it by Briech Water, 
a tributary of the Almond. The parish is about 10 miles long, 
by 5i broad. 

CoaU 4'C' — The greater part of this parish probably stands on 
rocks of the carboniferous system. Coal has been dug for in vari- 
ous places, and a supply of a tolerably good kind has been got for 
several years from Woodmuir, about three miles and a-half west 
from the village. At Leven-seat, four miles west, and at Baad's 
mill, one mile and a-half south-west, coal has been found, and the 
working of it has been in progress at both these places. The sup- 
ply, has as yet been small and of inferior quality. Abundance of 



WEST CALDEU. 305 

limestone is found in connection with the coal at Baad's Mill, 
which, when burned, is considered of a superior quality for build- 
ing, but inferior for manure, bein^ of a tiiore coaly nature than 
that in the neighbouring parishes. A supply of tolerably good 
lime has for many years been had at Handerwood. There was 
a stratum of limestone at Limefield, about a mile and a*half east 
from the village, about nine or ten feet thick, which is now ex- 
hausted, and the kilns are completely removed. 

Ironstone has been wrought for a number of years on the estate 
of Handerwood by the Wilsontown Iron Company ; and for about 
three years past, on the estate of Muldren, at the western extre- 
mity of the parish, by the Shotts Company. It has been found 
about two fathoms above the coal at Longford ; but only a small 
quantity has as yet been wrought there. 

Botany. — The Flora of the parish is varied and interesting, 
possessing many rare plants. Pyrola uniflora is to be found in 
Harburn Firwood; Lotiicera caprifolium fn the hedges; Dryas 
octopeiala at Levenseat, Handerwood ; Viola luiea at Woodmuir ; 
Gayea lutea^ or Omithoyalum luteum^ is more abundant on the 
banks of Briechwater, than at Auchtertool Linn, one of its most 
noted stations. Besides the Ericas common to most of our Scot- 
tish heaths, there is a rich variety, seldom to be found, of the Erica 
vulyaris. Ferns abound throughout the parish ; and in less than 
half an acre of ground, in a small glen on the border of the vil- 
lage, fourteen species of Polypodium^ Aspidiutn^ Oreopteris^ and 
Asplenium have been found. The meadows are enriched with 
numerous varieties of Orchis mascula^ Morio^ latifolia, and ma* 
eulatOf also with Lisiera ovata, Ophioghssum vulyatum, and Pm- 
yuicula vulgaris. The drier grounds abound with Habenaria m» 
ridisy and H. albida. The parasite Orobanche major is very 
abundant. There are hundreds of other plants, common to the 
most of Scotland, which it would be superfluous to mention here. 

II. — Civil History. 
Jntiquities.^^Tov^eird the southern extremity of the parish, on the 

Harburn estate, there was an old castle, said to have been fortified 

by Cromwell, to repress the depredations of the Moss-troopers. 

On the top of a rising ground called Castlecraig, there are the 
remains of a small Roman camp, — within the eurvirons of which 
several Roman coins have been dug up< 

Parochial Registers. — These have been so kept, that they do 

EDINBURGH. U 



306 



EDINBURGHSHrRE. 



not enable us to present any accurate account of the deaths, birth^ 
or marriages. 

Land-owneri and their Valuation, — 

Tbe Rev. Houston Douglas, Baads, 
Alexander Young, Esq., W. S,, Hartnirn, 
Thomas Gloag, Esq., Limefield, 
Thomas Hardie, Esq., Grange, 
Stewart B. Hare, Esq., Handerwood, 
Mrs Maitlandt Hermand, 
Rer. James Logan, Esq., Loganlee, 
George Watson's Hospital, Briechmill, 
James M'Leod, Esq., Polbeth, 
William John SmeUie, Esq., Addiewell, 
John M. Mowbray, Esq., W. S., Hartwood, 
Sir Henry Jardioe, Harwood, 
John Dodsy Esq., Middle Crosswood, . 
John Davie Martin, Esq. Gaviside, &e. 
James Graham, Esq., Muldren, 
Thomas Balfour, Eisq., Woodmuir,* 
Andrew Steele, Esq. Crosswoodhill, . 
John Kidd, Esq., North Cabenshaw, &e. 
James Elder, Esq., Bents, . 
James Camithers, Esq., South Cabtnshaw, 
James Paterson, Esq., East Torphin, 
Mrs Wyllie, Annatneld, 
Allan Gibson, Esq., Rashiehill, 
Migor Berrie, West Torphin, 
John Graham, Esq., Meadowheed* 
Claud Storrie, Esq., Blackhill, 
John Penny, Esq., BimiehiU, 
Gibson, Esq., Broomhill, 

ToUl, Scots money, USISS 10 4 

Modern Bu%ldings.'—'r\\B mansion-houses and offices of Her^ 
mand were built by the late Lord Hermand about 1797. Lime* 
field and Harburn were built about 1804 These are laige and 
commodious houses, well finished, and the surrounding grounds 
tastefully laid out and adorned. Hartwood is a smaller, but a 
hahdsomer house, built about 1807, on a good site, by the father 
of the present proprietor. This, with Harwood, built about 1768^ 
is in the common form of a good country manse, with a kitchen 
attached to the one end, and a room of similar size attached to 
the other. Gaviside, built 1730, is a small but neat house, with 
very superior offices attached to it Muldren, rebuilt in 1828, 
isof the same stamp, and Bents was built about 1825. ChapeltoD 
was formed in 1780 into a neat one storey house, with good attic 
bed-rooms, by the late Mr Gloag of Limefield. The other pro* 
prietors who live on their property have only small one storey 
houses. The farm-houses atid offices on the Harburn estate are of 
a superior orden. Some good houses have of late been built on the 
estate of Baads ; and others are about to be built. Tbe old man- 

* John Weir, Esq., is proprietor of Woodmuir coal. 

4 



L.S02 


Sd9 6 6 


213 IS 


206 7 


200 


192 18 


182 16 8 


142 18 6 


192 8 8 


118 8 4 


114 5 9 


110 


97 13 4 


63 


80 


60 11 8 


^08 


51 2 2 


50 


46 14 5 


42 18 5 


S3 11 8 


83 6 8 


81 1 5 


27 


26 


19 11 


16 11 7 



WEST CALDER, 307 

sion-house of Baads is a very small house of two storeys, occupied 
by the person who farms the land surrounding it. The farm-houses 
in general throughout the parish are of an inferior kind. The 
manse was rebuilt in a large and commodious form, with back- 
kitchen and two small rooms above, separated by a staircase from 
the other building, and finished in 1837. The offices were built in 
1822, and are also good. The village has been much improved of 
late in appearance, by old houses being taken down, and several 
neat, small cottages built. 

III. — Population. 
There have been 13 illegitimate births in the parish within the 
three years, 1838, 1839, 1840. 

In 1801, the population amonnted to 1185 
1811, . . 1435 

1821, . . 1458 
1831. . . 1617 

1841, 1666 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture and Produce* — The general process of agriculture 
in this parish consists in spreading lime and other sorts of manure 
on lea, and then taking two or three crops of oats. After this, the 
field lies three or four years in grass. The farmers have dis- 
covered that lime acts as a powerful solvent on all kinds of mossy 
earth, and they have applied the discovery with great success. In 
some places, the soil, which is in general very wet, has been much 
improved by draining. It is generally believed, that, if a regular 
system of draining were introduced, the soil would not only be much 
more productive, but the harvest two or three weeks earlier than it 
is at present. Some of the proprietors have improved tlie soil and 
the appearance of their estates, by Enclosing their fields with 
double rows of hedges and ditches, and filling up the vacancy 
with, in general, fir trees adapted to the climate. They have 
also succeeded in producing a regular rotation of crops, according 
to the most approved modes of agriculture. Wheat, barley, flax, 
pease and beans, turnips and potatoes are raised in this parish ; 
but the grain most generally produced, is oats, the average pro- 
duce of which may be about from 6 to 8 bolls an acre. When the 
ground is laid down with grass seeds, the prevailingcrop is rye-grass. 
Clover is little sown. A greater quantity of rye-grass seed is pre- 
served than what is necessary for next year, so that in good years, 
from 150 to 250 bolls are sold out of the parish. 

There are considerably more horses reared than are required to 



308 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

supply the wants of the people ; and the rearing of c^le baavbeen 
attended to by some of the proprietors and tenants* According to 
the last Statistical Account^ the rents were mostly paid from the 
sale of cattle ; but during the course of the last twenty years, great 
improvements have been made in the management of the dairy ; 
and at present a considerable number of the tenants depend, in a 
great measure, on its proceeds to enable them to pay their rents. 
They produce good butter, and cheese, of eicellent quality. 
Some of them transport their butter and butter-milk regularly 
once or twice a-week to Edinburgh market. 

It is scarcely possible to ascertain the rent of arable land, be- 
cause the greater number of farms have some moss or moor con- 
nected with them. According to the estimation of the farmers, 
the arable portion of their farms costs them from 14s. to L. I an 
acre. The size of the farms is seldom greater than what is ne- 
cessary to support a family, and almost every attempt (o accumu- 
late this kind of property has failed. The want of capital prco 
vents the farmers from making important improvements, yet a 
good deal has been effected of late years, by some active and en- 
terprising tenants. The estates of Harbuni, Hartwood, and Her-* 
mand, have, during the last forty years, been adorned with small 
plantations, and greatly improved in their agriculture, by the in- 
telligent attention of the proprietors. Harburn, in particular, re- 
sembles an oasis in a desert Trees were rare about sixty or seven- 
ty years ago in the parish, but are now abundant. 

V. — Parochial Economt. 
Ecclesiastical State. — Previous to the year 1646, West Calder 

was a part of the parish of Mid- Calder, and had a cha|iel belong- 
ing to it at a place three-fourths of a mile from the village of West 
Calder. This place is still called Chapelton ; and the propri^or 
has in his possession a large hollow stone, which seems to have been 
the font of the chapel. In the year 1647, the Commissioners for 
the Plantation of Kirks and Valuation of Teinds, valued the teinds 
of Calder Comitis, which included the parishes of Mid and West 
Calders ; and allocated the whole teinds as stipend to the minis- 
ters of the two parishes. West Calder stipend after this amount- 
ed to 800 merks, together with 50 merks for communion elements, 
and 30 merks for grass, till it ^as raised by the Government grant 
for the augmentation of small stipends, to L.I 50 Sterlings with 200 
merks for communion elements. The glebe consists of 24 impe- 
rial acres, and is worth about 20s. an acre. There has been also, 



WEST CALDER. 309 

for forty yeai'S, a Dissenting meeting-house in the village, be- 
longing to the United Secession. The inhabitants adhered to 
the church in about the proportion of sixteen to eleven. 

Education. — The parish school has generally attendrag it from 
50 to 90 scholars. The teacher has a good house and garden. 
The salary is the maximum. The probable yearly amount of fees 
paid to the parochial schoolmaster is about L. 15 or L. 16. The 
other emoluments may probably amount to from L. 35 to L. 40. 
There is another school in the village, attended by about the same 
number of children as the parish school ; but, as the teacher de- 
pends chiefly on the school fees for a living, he must be very poorly 
supported. There is likewise a school four miles west of the vil- 
lage, attended by a great number of children. 

Poor and Parochhl Funds. — The funds for supplying the poor 
of this parish, arose formerly from the weekly collections, from the 
mortcloth money, from the sum of 2s. 6d. given at each marriage, 
and from the interest of a bond for L. 1 00. The following table 
shows the rate of collections for six months in the summer and 
autumn : In 1743, L.5, lis. Id.; in 1773, L.6, 3s. 9d.; in 1783, 
L.10, 10s. l^d.; in .1793, L.e, 16s. 5d.; in 1794, L.10, 8s. 4d. 
The number of those who received charity from the poor's funds 
during the above years, were from 10 to 15, and the sum given to 
6ach was at an average of 3s. per month. 

The first assessment for the poor look place in 1775. 

The aBsenment in 18d5, amounted to L.129 6 7 ; collections, L.22 4 

18dd, do. 113 3 3 do. 14 8 2 

1837, do. 129 6 7 do. 13 12 6 

The highest sura given to any pauper on the roll, is at present 
at the rate of L.7, 4s. yearly, and the lowest L.1, 10s. The 
average of the present collections is about 5s. 9d. weekly. The 
mortcloth has almost ceased to be of any value to the poor's fund 
as it is very seldom used. 

1841. 



PARISH OF GLENCROSS. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWEEDDALE* 

THE REV. ALEXANDER TORRENCE, MINISTER, 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — Glencross, or Glencorse, as it is now very generally 

written, according to Chalmers in his Caledonia, derives its name 

*^ from a remarkable cross which had once been erected in the 

vale of Glencross by pious hands, and which also gave the namet 

to Crosshouses." 

Extent, Boundaries, Sfc, — The parish forms nearly a square, 
extending about three miles. It is bounded on the east and south, 
by the parish of Lasswade ; and on the west and north, by the 
parishes of Penicuik and Colinton. It is situated on the south 
side of the Pentland hills, some of which are in the parish. 

Topographical Appearances. — This parish is beautifully diver- 
sified by a variety of picturesque scenery. The surface is of an ir- 
regular and undulating appearance, and is rendered peculiarly 
interesting from the variety of hill and dale which characterises 
it, and which, from the quantity of wood with which it abounds, 
produces a very beautiful landscape. The northern part of the 
parish, which includes some of the Pentland hills, rises to a very 
considerable height, and forms a striking contrast to that which 
has been now described. Prom the high grounds at the foot of 
the hills, the view is of the most commanding description, extend- 
ing eastward as far as the mouth of the Forth, including a great 
part of East Lothian, and to the southward, over Mid Lothian, 
part of Tweeddale, along the range of the Moorfoot hills. The 
hill grounds afford excellent pasture for sheep, and are well supplied 
with springs of the purest water. Turnhouse hill, which is the 
highest in the parish, is 1403 feet above the level of the seia. 

Hydrography.^- hi a distance of about two or three gunshots 
from the manse, rises the Crawley spring, from which Edinburgh 



OLBNCROSS. 311 

and Leitb are abundantly supplied with water. It discharges 60 
cubic feet of water per minute. 

Glencross or Logan water, which rises about 5 or 6 miles to 
the westward among the Pentland hills, flows with some slight 
windings in an easterly direction through the parish ; and then 
making a sudden turn to the south, falls into the north Esk at 
Auchindinny. 

About a mile above the Crawley spring, in the valley formed 
by the double range of the Pentland hills, is the Compensation 
Reservoir, so named from its being intended to supply to the 
mills upon the Esk, the deflciency of water necessarily pro- 
duced from the loss of so copious a stream as Crawley. It was 
made at an immense expense by the Edinburgh Water Com- 
pany. It extends over about 30 acres of land, and forms a very 
beautiful lake, enclosed on eachside by the hills; and covers, to a 
considerable depth, the old church and burying ground of St Ca- 
tharines. It is formed by means of a great embankment across 
the glen, 1*28 yards in length, 140 yards in thickness at the btise, 
and slopes gradually to the top, 130 feet above the former level of 
the stream. To render it impervious to water, it was necessary 
to clear out the foundation down to the rock, across the whole 
width of the glen, to nearly the proposed thickness of the embank- 
ment This was a very arduous undertaking, and at one time seem- 
ed indeed almost hopeless, from the depth it was necessary to go 
down, (upwards of 40 feet,) before the rock was found, and the 
various casualties to which such a work was unavoidably exposed. 

The middle part of the embankment, from its base upon the 
rock, throughout its whole length, to the top, was then formed into 
a wall of clay, 30 feet in width, well-puddled, while the two sides 
were made up from the earth in the neighbourhood, and the gra- 
vel, sand, and debris which had been removed in excavating the 
foundation. 

Through this embankment are built two great tunnels, one at 
the lower part of the reservoir, for giving out the necessary quan- 
tity of water required for the mills, and the other the *^ safety 
tunnel," near the top, for letting off what in a flood would have 
endangered the safety of the mound. The water which passes 
by the ** Wastewier," when it overflows, and that which is allow- 
ed to escape through the safety tunnel, form at times two beautiful 
Cascades over the rock, as the water falls into its former channel. 

This embankment was begun in 1819, but, in consequence of 
the great and unforeseen difficulties which attended its formation. 



312 EDINBURGHSHIUE. 

was Qot completed till 1.824* There were employed daily, during 
that time, from 200 to 400 men, chiefly Irish, many of whom were 
accommodated in temporary booths erected at the place» James 
Jardine, Esq. Civil^Engineer, Edinburgh, planned and superin* 
lended the execution of the work^ and by his skill and ingenuity, 
and indefatigable perseverance, surmounted the many discourag- 
ing difficulties, which, at almost every stage of the work, present- 
ed themselves, and retarded very materially its progress. 

Geology and Mineralogy,-^The rocks in the lower parts of the 
parish belong to the coal formation. Cool has been wrought in 
the parish, but not for several years*. The rocks in the upper 
part of the parish, viz. those in the Pentland hills, are of the floetz 
and trap series ; in the slate series we find clay-slate and grey- 
Ti'acke ; io the trap scries clinkstone, clinkstone porphyry, green- 
stone, compact felspar, claystone, elaystooe tuff, and porphyry* 
The rocks on each side of the valley through which Glencross 
water flows are chiefly porphyry. This porphyritic rock is 
frequently also amygdaloidal, having its cavities filled with 
mineral substances of different kinds, such as calcareous spar, 
heavy spar, and agate. Beautiful sections of this rock are to 
be seen on each side of the water, a little above Glencross 
Bridge^ Professor Jameson, who annually, with his class, visits 
this plaoe, considers these rocks to be of igneous origin. He re* 
marks also that the porphyritic rocks there, have a striking resem- 
blance to the porphyritic rocks in the Andes, as described by 
Humboldt He supposes that, at an early period, in consequence 
of some great convulsion of nature, a rent had taken place in the 
rocks, which then united the glen, and, tearing them asunder, 
emptied a lake which had once existed above, and formed tlie 
narrow and romantic defile through which the water now flows» 

The ^^ siller mine" is a very beautiful rock of porphyry, in 
which there are several veins of heavy spar, and which, as it is 
often associated with metallic ore, was at one time wrought in ex^ 
pectatioq of finding copper or silver. 

Turnhouse hilU on the west side of Glencross water, rests on 
conglomerate, as. was very distinctly shown before the formation 
of the Compensation reservoir, which now washes its base. Over 
this lies greenstone, next amygdaloid, then trap-tuff, and last of 
all, porphyry, which forms the upper part of the hill. On the 
norjth-east declivity of Turnhouse hill, claystone is found imbed- 
ded, in compact felspar, to. whiph it is intimately related. It 
gradually passes into porphyry, which rests immediately upon iU 



GLENCROSS. 3l3 

The claystone rests upon elaystone tuff» with whieb it is often in- 
termtxedy and with whieb it perhaps alternates. The elaystone 
tuff has rather a remarkable appearance, and from the soft and 
ftiable state in which it is found, (produced yery much from the 
action of the weather,) has been supposed by some to- be volcanic 
ashes. In this rock are to be found veins of conchoidal honistoney 
which passes into striped jasper, and has a very beautiful appearance. 
The elaystone tuff rests upon clidkstone porphyry, as was verydis*- 
tinctly shown when the great excavation was made for the founda- 
tion of the embankment already described. 

Boulder stones, composed of quartz and dilorite, are fbund in 
different places in the course of the water, and on the high grounds 
in the Pentland range.* 

SaiL — There is a considerable variety of soil 'm this parish,; 
from the 6nest loam to gravelly and stiff day. It is capable, 
however, of bearing all kiiHls of cropa^ and seems^ to be well 
adapted for potato and turnip husbandry. The inferior soils are 
gradually becoming better, from the extensive draining now very 
generally practised, and the abundant application of lime and 
dung. 

A^ony.— The common heaths and natural grasses prevail very 
generally on the hill, and afford excellent pasture for sheep. 

Among the rarer plants found in the parish may be mentioned 
Carex axiUaris, Epipactis pahistrU^ Primvia farinosa^ Aipidium^ 
fragile. 

There are some beautiful specimens of Portugal laurel in the 
garden atXoganbank, which have grown to a wonderful size; 
and some fine large variegated hollies at Woodhouselee, some of 
which are 35 feet in height, growing at an elevation of upwards 
of 600 feet above the level of the sea. 

In the last Statistical Account, it is stated, ** that there is a silver 
fir at Woodhouselee, which is the oldest tree of its species in Mid- 
Lothian, and has always been admired for its size and beauty. It was 
planted in a dry soil in a garden, about the first year of the present 
century. In March 1759, at four feet above theground, it measured 
7 feet 4| iinches in circumference. In March 1793, at the same 
height, it measured 11 feet 1| inches. During these thirty-three 
years, it, therefore, increased in circumference 46 inches. Its 

* For more detailed descriptions of the Pentland Hilb, see Professor Jamesonls 
account in the Memoirs of the Wernerian Societ/y and thclate Mr Cunningham's 
Geology of the Lothians, and -Mr Madaren^ volume also on the Oeology of the Lo- 
thiaus. 



314 EDiNBUIiGHSUiRE* 

greatestgrowth was in the year 1760, when it increased precisely two 
inches. During ail theother years, its increase in circumference was 
from one inch to one and a-half inchannually. This fine tree, bow- 
ever, is now upon the decay. It is ascertained from other instances 
that the age of the silver fir is limited in this country to within a 
century. It is in its greatest perfection when about 80 years old ; 
and if placed in a proper situation, it is capable, during all that 
period, of increasing upon an average, about a cubic foot of wood 
annually." About 35 years ago, a liberal coating of fresh earth 
was applied all round the trunk, and to the extremity of the bran- 
ches, which raised the surface next the stem, upwards of a foot, 
and which has very much revived this noble tree. In January 
1838, it measured at three feet from the ground, (to allow for the 
new coating of earth,) 13 feet 4 inches in circumference ; having 
increased since 1793, or during the last forty-five years, about 2 
feet 1 inch, being at the rate of nearly 4^ eighths of an anch an- 
nually. It still appears to be in a healthy state, producing new 
and healthy growths annually, though some of the branches near 
the ground are partially decayed. 

The plantations, which are very extensive, are in a thriving con- 
dition. The trees are of every variety, both of soft and hard- wood, 
and seem all well adapted for the soiK On the estate of Glen* 
corse, there are a number of very fine old larches, not much, if at 
all, inferior to those on the Duke of AtholFs property at Dunkeld.* 

11. — Civil History. 
Chalmers in his Caledonia mentions, ** that this parish was 

formed in 1616, from the old parishes of Pentland and Penicuik." 
After the Reformation, according to the same author, the old pa- 
rish of Pentland was suppressed and annexed to that of Lasswade* 
This explains why, in the former Statistical Account, the pa- 
rish is said to have been separated from that of Lasswade and 
Penicuik. I do not know on what authority Chalmers makes 
this assertion, but I find in the Presbytery Records repeated men- 
tion made of the parish of Glencross, so early as 1589, when Mr 
Andrew Forrester was minister. The most likely explanation of 
this seeming discrepancy is, that, previous to that date, it had been 
a parish quoad sacra. 

Historical Notices. — This parish is connected with events that 
are calculated to give to it considerable historical interest Wood- 
houselee, now Old Woodhouselee, the ruins of which still remain, 

' Since writing the above, these fine trees baye been cut down. 



GLENUO0S8. 815 

at the southern extremity of the parish, had been conferred by 
James V. upon his favourite, Oliver Sinclair, who commanded the 
Scottish army at the rout of Solway. To the offence given to his 
nobles by the itUjudged elevation of that person over them, is to 
be attributed the calamitous issue of that battle, and subsequent 
death of the King, who died a few days afterwards of a broken 
heart, leaving his daughter Mary an infant only eight days old* 
To a circumstance accidentally connected with this place is to be 
traced the fatal termination of the misfortunes of that unfortunate 
princess. Hamilton of Bothwelhaugh, who was a zealous supporter 
of Mary against the ambitious views of the R^ent Murray, had 
been at the battle of Langside, and shared in the misfortunes of 
the vanquished in that unsuccessful attempt to reinstate Mary in 
her kingdom. His lady, Isabella Sinclair, the daughter of Oliver 
Sinclair, and heiress of Woodhouselee, fled from Bothwelhaugh 
to this place, in the hope that she would escape the vengeance of 
the Regent for her husband's crimes, in her own paternal estate ; 
but in this she was sadly disappointed, for, by the order, or, at 
least, with the consent of the Regent, she was turned out at nighty 
in the month of November, exposed, almost without any coverings 
to the severities of that inclement season, and before morning was 
in a state of complete derangement, from which she never after- 
wards recovered. From that time, Hamilton vowed the destruc* 
tion of the Regent, which he accordingly effected at Linlithgow 
about nine months afterwards. At the time of the Regent's death, 
negociations were in progress for the delivering up of Mary into 
his hands, as Elizabeth felt there was not only trouble but danger 
attending the long detention of her unfortunate rival. The Regent's 
death, however, having disappointed Elizabeth's hopes of getting 
rid of Mary in a way that accorded with her views and inclination, 
probably determined her to the cruel line of policy she adopted 
with respect to her, and which eventually led to the catastrophe 
that terminated the life of that unhappy Princess. 

The battle of Pentland hills was fought at Rullion Green in 
this parish, on the 2dth November 1666. The Covenanters, com- 
manded by Colonel Wallace, were attacked by the King's troopsi 
under the command of General Dalziel of Binns, on the position 
which they had taken up on the morning of that day, on a rising 
ground, a little to the south of Turnhouse hill» and defeated with 
considerable slaughter. 

There is a stone erected at the place to the memory of those 
who fell on that occasion, called the ** Martyrs' tomb." 



31^ EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Z^zm^-otonerf.*— The chief laod^owners id the parish are^ Jamet 
Tytler, Esq* of WoodhouseIee»> patron of the parish ; Joha Trot- 
ter, Esq. of CastIelaw;W iiliam Child, Esq. of OleDCorse; Har* 
ry M. Inglts, Esq. of Loganbank ; Major Wilkie of Easter Busb ; 
£dl of whom have residences in the parish. There are, besides, se- 
veral other smoftler proprietors. 

Eminent CkaracUws. — The kte WiHiam Tytler, Esq. author of 
the Enquiry int6 the Evidence against Mary Queen of Scots, and 
his son, the Honourable Lord Woodbovselee, one of the Senators- 
of the Ckillege of Justice, and oner of Uie Lords Commissioners of 
Justiciary in Scotland, author of the Life of Lord Kames, and 
other works of great literary merit, resided during summer at Wood- 
houselee. Patrick Praser Tytler, Esq. Advocate, youngest son of 
Lord Woodhouselee, whose History of Scotland is so justly cele- 
brated, spent his boyhood there. 

The late Rev. Dr loglis, author of the Vindication* of Eccle- 
siastical Establishments) Sec and a distinguished leader ia the 
Church of Scodand,. had a property in this parish, where for 
more than; twenty years he and* his family resided, during the sum- 
mer season. 

Parochial Regitf^rs, — The date of the earliest parish record i» 
1643, where it is stated that << this day, Aprille 21, 164d» Mr Ro- 
bert AUsone was chosen to be the min^ at Glencorsse by the una* 
nimous consent of elders, heritors, and people." 

October 16, 1643. — ** This day, Mr RoberU Alisone received 
ordination by imposition of the hands of the Presby trie^ in the kirk 
of Glencorsse." 

The registers of collections and disbursements begin in Novem- 
ber 1601, and continue regularly in different volumes to the pre- 
sent day. 

The registers of proclamations, marriages, baptisms, and deaths, 
Degtn in 1672, and are continued with some slight interruptions to 
the present time. 

The diffisrent volumes of which the parish record consists^ are, 
upon the wholoj in a good state of preservation, and were all late^ 
ly rebound. 

It is astonishing to see how much money was raised by paro- 
chial collections- and subscriptions for various purposes, altogether 
unconnected with the* parish. The session seems not only to have 
provided for the wants of their own poor,, but to have extended 
their parochial contributions to various benevolent purposes in Scot- 
land, England, and Ireland, and even in various parts of Europe* 



GLeNCROSS*. 317 

The s^esipo records bear al^ that collections were sometimes 
mtiAe by order of act9 of Privy- CouQcil for the erection of difie* 
r^t wiorks in various places in Scotland, suf^b as bridges, harbours, 
8ftf a«Mi for the relief of persons in slavery in Algiers. 

The session records are chiefly filled with accounts of money 
given to the poor and church officers, and with the administration 
of church discipline, to those guiky of immoral conduct, in all 
ranks of life, such as drunkenness, scolding, swearing, fighting, 
stealing, &c* and which far exceeded in minuteness and severity 
the discipline of the present day. 

It seems to have been the practice for parties giving in their 
names for proclamation of banns, to deposit a sum of money, ge- 
nerally a crown piece or dollar, in the session-clerk's hand, and 
some person became caution for another crown in behalf of the 
other party, ^^ which money is to be disposed upon for the use of 
the poor, in case of miscarriage betwixt the parties*'' 

AnHquUies.^^There are distinct vestiges of two camps in thi3 
parish, one at Castlelaw, and the other on a rising piece of ground, 
which forms part of the base of Turnhouse hill. There were^ a few 
years ago, the very perfect remains of a Druidical temple on an 
eminence on Mr M^Niel's property, close upon the high road, 
near Marchwell. It formed a circle of large stones, placed near 
each others forty feet in diameter. Lately, however, they have 
been heedlessly broken and removed, to build a wall which now 
runs through the middle of it 

A few years ago, a number of ston&^coffins were discovered, 
when digging for gravel in a field close to the church^road near 
Glencorse gate, in which bones, much decomposed, were found. 
The coffins were of a very rude construction, formed of flat atones 
of various sizes. They lay quite close to and parallel with one 
another, and were about three feet from the surface. To what pe- 
riod they are to be referred, it is impossible to determine, and there 
is no tradition on the subject 

Modem Buildings. — The chief modern buildings are the man- 
sion-houses of Bush, Glencorse, Loganbank, and Bellwood. 

The old mansion-house of Greenlaw was converted into a French 
prison at the breaking out of the war, after the short peace in 1S03, 
and was for a number of years the only French prison in Scotland. 
Afterwards in 1813, Government having purchased the grounds 
there, a spacious depot was erected, calculated to contain 7000 
men, with suitable barracks for the accommodation of soldiers. 
The war, however, having come to a termination before the build- 



318 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

iDgs were finishedi they were never occupied aa a pnaon^ and hare 
not been applied to any other use. Lately, the barracks have been 
put into good repair, and have occasionally been occupied as a de- 
pot for the reserve companies of regiments of the line stationed in 
Scotland. 

IIL— Population. 
The returns to Government exhibit the following acount of the 

population : 

Census in 1801, - 990 

1811, - 465 

1821, - 661 

1831, - 652 

1841, . 708 

Poaching is not unfrequent in the parish, particularly during 

the winter season. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agricutture. — This parish contains 1920 square imperial acres, 
of which probably 240, being hill land, have never been in cultiva- 
tion. A great deal of wood has been planted within the last forty 
years, and which, having been regularly thinned, has now grown 
to a considerable size. 

Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land in the parish 
may be estimated at L.1, 1 Os. or L.2. The average rent of graz- 
ing an oz or cow may be estimated at L.d, lOs; a ewe or full- 
grown sheep at 58. The valued rent of the parish is L.1 579, 8s. 

Breedi of Livc'StocL — In this parish there are about 50 scores 
of sheep, chiefly of the black-faced kind, though there are also, on 
Turnhouse hill, a number of the Cheviot breed. A cross breed 
betwizt the Leicester and black-faced stock, produces much larger 
lambs, which are disposed of at better prices than they would 
otherwise bring ; but the black*faced ewes are generally preferred 
for keeping up the stock, as they are considered best adapted for 
the climate in winter. Ewe-milking is now entirely out of use 
here. Smearing is generally practised. The quantity of wool 
sold annually may be estimated at 145 stones, — which varies con- 
siderably in price, in different years. 

HiUbandnf. — All kinds of grain are raised in the parish. Wheat 
is now very generally sown ; and from the improvement that has 
lately been made in the mode of farming, it is often of very 6ne 
quality. Potatoes also are very generally cultivated, and turnips 
of different kinds for cattle in winter* 

Leases. — The duration of leases is generally for nineteen years. 
Some farms have been let for a shorter period ; and rents are in 
general well paid. The farm-houses have been much improved 



OLENCROSS. 319 

within the last thirty years, and the offices attached to them are, 
for the most part, very complete, thrashing-mills forming almost 
always a part of them. The fields are well enclosed with hedges* 
Dry-stone dikes are also pretty general, particularly in the higher 
parts of the parish. 

Improvements.'^ k great deal has been done in the way of im- 
provements. Draining has been in very general use; and many 
acres of land, which were formerly in a marshy state, are now com- 
pletely brought in, and producing the finest crops. The whins, 
. too, which covered many of the fields, have been rooted out, and 
the ground is now carrying grain of excellent quality. Lime is 
▼ery generally used for agricultural purposes, after having been 
first made into compost 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market-'Toums. — The nearest market-tovB is Edinburgh, which 

is little more than six miles from the manse. Dalkeith, which is 

seven miles off, is also rMorted to by the farmers on the south side 

of the parish* 

Means of Communication. — The means of communication en- 
joyed by the parish are excellent. There is no post-office in the 
parish ; but there is one at Penicuik and another at Roslin, be- 
twixt two and three miles distant, and which are both easy of ac- 
cess. There are two turnpike roads running through the whole 
length of the parish, and the old Dumfries road by Auchindiony. 
The Dumfries mail-coach passes daily through the south side of 
the parish, as doth also the Peebles coach to and from Edinburgh ; 
and on the north, there is a stage coach to Dumfries every 
day by Linton and Biggar. The parish roads are kept in ex- 
cellent repair. The statute labour money is regularly levied, 
and the average annual expense of keeping them in oi*der for the 
last three years may be estimated at L.20. There are three stone 
bridges over Glencross water, which are in good condition ; and 
another over the Esk at Auchindinny, where this water forms the 
boundary of the parish. 

Ecckstastical State. — The church is most conveniently situated, 
being nearly in the centre of the parish. It stands on the top of 
a curiously insulated knoll, and is very beautifully surrounded with 
trees. It appears from dates upon it to have been built at two 
different periods: the main body of the church in 166.5; but, hav- 
ing been destroyed by fire in 1695, it was rebuilt in 1699, and en- 
larged by adding a projection to each side, which forms it into the 



820 EDINBUROHSHIRE. 

shape of a eross. It is in pretty good order, having been re- 
paired in 1811, and may contain about 180 Btttings, which are all 
free ; bnt it ie not now adequate to the wants of the present po- 
pulation.* 

The church had originally been a Popish place of worship, and 
was made use of after the Eteformation by the Presbyterians, be- 
fore Presbytery was established* When the church was repaired 
in 1811, there was found, in deepening the floor, about the middle 
of it, a large quadrangular-shaped stone, 19 inches square and 21 
inches deep, with a bead neatly cut round the edges and down the 
corners to the base; and a circular font in the centre, 13 inches 
in diameter and 8 inches deep, which no doubt had been used ifi 
Popish times. On the opposite corners of the stone, pieces of 
iron, broken off by the surface, remain fixed in with lead. In the 
cavity of the stone, a skull and several bones were found. 

The following is a list of ministers of this parish, as appears 
from the record of Presbytery and session records : 

Mr Andro Forrester, minister in 1589. Mr Robertson, or- 
dained 1636. Mr Robert Alison, ordained in 1643. Mr Cal- 
derwood, an Episcopal minister there in 1673. Mr George 
Purves, admitted by the Bishop and Moderator in 1674. Mr 
John Fraser, ordained in 1691, and removed, to the great re- 
gret of his parishioners, to Alness, in Ross-shire, in 1696, owing to 
■the difficulty of obtaining ministers in those days who understood 
Gaelic. Church vacant till 1699, when Mr John Wilson was or- 
dained, who died in 1757. Mr John Walker, ordained in Septem- 
ber 1758, and translated to Moffat in 1763. He was after- 
wards minister of Colinton, and Professor of Natural History in 
the University of Edinburgh. Mr James I'aylor, ordained in 
1768, and' died in 1787. Mr William Torrence, ordained July 
1788, and died in January 18*%. The present incumbent, or- 
dained assistant and successor to his father in October 1818. 

The manse was built in 1816, and is pleasantly situated on the 

* The following entry is fotuid in the record of disbursements : " Dec. 26, 1695. 
The qlk day the church was burnt, y' was of money cf^ was in an ambrie In ye ses* 
sioo house which was run with the fire, 01 16 06." 

It is stated in another place, that *' in the year sixteen hundred and ninetie>nine» 
the church was rebuilt again." What is rather remarkable, there was no interrupt 
tion of public worship during all that time, as appears from the insertions of ttw 
weekly collections^ except what took place in consequence of the vacancy that occur- 
red the f>]lowing year in October 1096, when Mr John Fraser was remored to Al- 
ness. After t^t, there was sermon only once a-moath, and sometimes only onoe 
in three months^ till October 1699, when Mr John Wilson was ordained minister of 
ibeparlsb. 

8 # 



GLBNCROSS. 321 

Biggar road, nearly a mile from the church. It has not, however, 
been substantially built, for within that time it has twice been ne- 
cessary to give it very considerable repairs. 

The glebe, together with the garden, contains about nine Scots 
acres, lying quite contiguous to the manse, with a fine exposure 
to the south. It is well enclosed with hedges, is of excellent qua- 
lity, and may be valued at L.d per acre. There is also a servitude 
for ten sheep on Castlelaw hill. 

The stipend is one of those which receive aid from Government 
It consists of 42 bolls of victual, partly oats, partly meal, and partly 
barley, which is paid by the highest county fiars ; with L.dd^ Is. 
4d. money stipend, including L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. 
The allowance received from Government is L.88, Is. 2d. 

There is no Dissenting place of worship in the parish ; but 
there are about 20 Dissenting fiimilies who attend a Meeting- 
House near Penicuik. Divine service at the Established Church 
is generally well attended. The number of conomunicants may 
be estimated at about ISO. 

There are no regularly constituted societies for religious pur- 
poses established here ; but collections are regularly made from 
time to time in behalf of the General Assembly's schemes. 

The average annual amount of collections for the last five years 
is Lfcll, 15s. 6d. 

Education, — The parochial school is not very conveniently si- 
tuated for the parish. The branches taught in it are, English, 
English grammar, writing, and arithmetic Sometimes Latin is 
taught. The schoolmaster has lately got an addition built to his 
house, which is now very commodious. He has the maximum sa- 
lary, with a good garden of half an acre English. He also receives 
L.d, 9s. as session-clerk. The average amount of school fees for 
seven years past may be estimated at L.20. 

Savingsf Bank, — There is a savings' bank in the parish of Pe- 
nicuik, where some have deposited the money they have been 
able to save out of their wages. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid is 8, who receive from ds. to 6s. per month* 
There are several individuals besides, who in winter get coals, 
and occasionally a small supply of money. The annual amount 
of collections made at the church door, including proclamation 
and mortcloth dues, &c may be estimated at L.16, 10s. There 
is also an assessment of L.dO, regularly levied when required, at 

EDINBURGH. X 



322 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

an interval of eight or nine months. The annual amount of con« 
tributions for the support of the poor, on an average of five years, 
is L.42, 6s. 

It is to be regretted that there is not the same disposition now 
among the people who attend the parish church, to contribute to 
the collections in behalf of the poor. There are many who never 
contribute at all. 

At one time tlie people had an aversion to accept of anything 
from the poor's funds, as they considered it to be degrading to 
their character and family ; but this independent spirit, I am afraid, 
is dying away. 

Fairs. — There is an annual market for sheep held at House of 
Muir on the first and second Mondays of April, to which sheep 
are sent from various parts of Scotland, and purchasers attend 
from a great distance. At one time there was a weekly market 
there, frequented by the Edinburgh butchers ; but that has been 
discontinued, for more than forty years. The one-half of the cus- 
tom belongs to the town of Edinburgh, and the other half to the 
proprietor of the grounds, which is generally collected by his tenant* 

/iz7i4, d^c. — There are several licensed houses for retailing spi- 
rits in the parish, which certainly are injurious to the morals of 
the people. 

Fuel. — The fuel made use of in the parish is chiefly coal, which 
is obtained from a distance of from four to six miles, and costs at 
the pit from 7s. to 9s. per ton. A good deal of wood is also burnt 
from the thinnings of the plantations. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

Few parishes have undergone a more complete change of ex- 
ternal appearance than this since the date of the last Statistical 
Account At that time there was very little wood in the parish, 
but since that period a proportion, equaling in extent one*fifth of 
the whole parish, has been tastefully planted with trees, to which 
great attention having been paid, they are in a thriving state, and 
have arrived at considerable maturity. At that time enclosures 
were rare, and in bad condition ; now, the fields are all surround- 
ed by proper fences, and kept in excellent order. For the greater 
part of these improvements the parish is chiefly indebted to the 
taste and public spirit of the late Robert Trotter, Esq. of Castle- 
law, who spared no expense in improving his extensive property ; 
and his example was speedily followed by the other proprietors. 

Mojf 184a 



PARISH OF LASSWADE. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWEEDDALC 

THE REV. M. CAMPBELL MACKENZIE, MINISTER.* 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
As this parish is now divided into two parishes, qiu>ad sacra^ it 

is proposed to treat of them separately. We begin with Lass wade 
parish, quoad sacra, including in this account the temporal mat- 
ters, which are still common to both parishes. 

Name. — Chalmers says the name is derived from the Kirktown 
or village of Lasswade, which signifies a weU^watered pasture of 
common use. Laeswe in Anglo-Saxon signifies a common, and 
weyde in old English a meadow. As the name of the parish has 
been seen, in an old Dutch map, spelled Lesserwede, it may be 
considered to mean the opposite of Legerwood, — the smaller 
wood of Lasswade being contrasted with some larger wood not 
far distant. 

Extent. — Lasswade parish, before it was lately di?ided, consist- 
ed of three parishes and a provostry, viz. the parish of Lasswade 
proper, the parish of Melville, the parish of Pentland, and the 
provostry of Roslin. At this period, its extreme length was about 
8 miles, and its extreme breadth about 5 miles. Its length now 
is about 6 miles, and its breadth about 3 miles. It comprehends 
about 8 square miles. 

In the twelfth century, the church and lands of Lasswade were 
bestowed on the Bishop of St Andrews, and Lasswade thus be-^ 
came one of the Mensal churches. But whether Lasswade pro- 
per be meant, or Lasswade consisting of a number of parishes, 
cannot now be ascertained. It is probable that Lasswade proper 
is intended; for the junction and the consequent suppression of 
parishes is a device of Protestant and not of Popish times. There 
can be no doubt that the parish of Melville, including the baronies 

* This aoooutit was drawn up by the Rev. Dayid Brown, Roilin, with assistance 
of tho minister of the parisb. 



324 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

of Melville and Lugton^ ceased to form a separate parish only in 
163a 

In the reign of James III., the church of Lasswade was, by the 
Pope's authority, detached from St Salvator's Church, St An- 
drews, and annexed to the Collegiate Church of Restalrig. 

Boundaries. — The parish is bounded on the west, by Colinton ; 
on the north, by Colinton and Liberton ; on the east, by Dalkeith, 
Newbattle, and Cockpen; and on the south, by Roslin and Glen- 
cross. It is extremely irregular in its figure. 

Mountains. — The parish extends to the very top of the east 
range of the Pentland hills. But the narrow strip into which it 
is reduced, does not include any of the more remarkable elevations. 
The northern boundary of this strip runs along the very summit 
of the hills named Kirk Yetton and Allermuir. The higher of 
these, viz. Allermuir, is 1606 feet above the level of the sea. 

Climate. — The climate varies considerably, which will not ap- 
pear to be remarkable, when it is stated, that the elevation ranges 
between 270 and 1600 feet, within the distance of six miles. 
Around, and in the immediate neighbourhood of the beautiful 
village of Lasswade, which is situated near the lowest point in the 
scale of elevation, the climate is mild, and the air soft and agree- 
able. Hence vegetation is here both early and luxuriant, showing 
a striking contrast with the more elevated districts of this and the 
surrounding parishes. And the same circumstance has rendered 
the village of Lasswade a place of considerable resort to the inha- 
bitants of Edinburgh and Leith, numbers of whom annually spend 
the summer months in this delightful locality. 

River. — The river North Esk runs through the parish nearly 
three miles, and skirts it upwards of another mile. Few streams 
are more remarkable than this, for lovely and picturesque scenery. 
The walk from Gorton to Springfield leads through a locality of 
rich and varied beauty. 

Mineralogy. — The general feature of the geological structure 
of the parish is the same as that of the neighbouring parish of 
Roslip. In both parishes, red sandstone rests on coal, and there 
is an abundant supply of both minerals. The coal mines are 
wrought chiefly in the vicinity of Loanhead, and have been long 
in operation. 

II. — Civil History. 

Eminent CKarac^<.-r- Several distinguished individuals have 
been connected with the parish, viz. William Drummond of Haw- 



LASSWADE. 325 

thornden, the celebrated poet ; John Clerk, Esq. of Eldin ; and 
the late Lord Melville. The following is an abridged account of 
each. 

Drtanmond the Poet — This parish gave birth to William Drum- 
mond of Hawthornden, who occupies a distinguished place among 
the earlier bards of Scotland, and who, both as a poet and a his- 
torian, will bear a comparison with the most celebrated names of 
the age in which he lived. 

If ancestry can add anything to the glory of a genius, which 
itself would have ennobled obscurity, it may be mentioned that 
Drummond, in addition to his other distinctions, could boast of a 
long line of illustrious progenitors. His family came originally 
from Hungary in the reign of Malcom Canmore. One of his an- 
cestors was secretary to ** the Bruce," and another, the beautiful, 
talented, and accomplished Annabella Drummond, was Queen of 
Robert HL of Scotland, and mother of James I., who may be re- 
garded as discovering his consanguinity, by possessing a spirit, in 
many respects, congenial with that of our poet. 

William Drummond was the son of Sir John Drummond of 
Hawthornden, Gentleman Usher to King James VI., and of Su- 
sannah Fowler, daughter of Sir W. Fowler, Secretary to the 
Queen, and* was born on the Idth of December 1585. To the 
advantage of iT highly finished classical education, he added a fa- 
miliar acquaintance with many of the sciences, and also with many 
of the modern languages, particularly French, Spanish, and Ita- 
lian, which he spoke with the correctness and ease of a native. 
Inheriting from his father a comfortable independence, he could 
afford to relinquish the legal profession, for which he was origin- 
ally destined, and for which he had many superior qualifications, 
and yield himself up exclusively to his favourite pursuit. Em- 
bowered in the woody solitudes of his native Hawthornden, whose 
romantic scenery was well fitted to call forth his poetic ardour, he 
had everything to awaken, and nothing to repress his muse ; and 
there he produced those exquisite poems which have rendered his 
name immortal. 

In this retreat he remained during the greater part of his life ; 
but he occasionally visited London, and spent several years on 
the continent of Europe. Though fond of retirement, he enjoyed 
the society of his friends ; and the fame of his authorship, as well 
as the wit of his conversation, for which he was remarkable, drew 
around him the principal literary characters of his own country, 



326 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

and excited no small interest in the neighbouring kingdonEU The 
celebrated Ben Jonson, at the age of forty-five, travelled on foot 
all the way from London, for the express purpose of paying him 
a visit, and spent several weeks at Hawthornden in the winter of 
1618-19. 

He married Elizabeth Logan, grand<daughter of Sir Robert 
Logan of Restalrig, and by her had several children. He died 
on the 4th December 1649, deeply regretted, not only fer the 
superiority of his more conspicuous literary endowments, but also 
for the piety and worth of his private character. He was interred 
in the family aisle in the old Church of Lasswade. 

His works display much genius and learning, and a classic 
taste and purity of composition, but little known at the time when 
he wrote. His sonnets, on which his fame as a poet principally 
rests, are remarkable for the sweetness and smoothness of the 
versification, and have gained for him the title of the Petrarch of 
Scotland. In some respects, he is allowed to surpass the Italian. 

The family is now represented by Sir Francis Walker Drum* 
mond, Bart, of Hawthornden, who married Margaret Drummond, 
only daughter and heiress of Sir John F. Drummond, Bart, (in 
whose person the family title, after remaining dormant above a 
century, was revived,) and grand-niece of Bishop Abernethy, the 
representative of the Abernethies of Salton. 

Mr Clerk of Eldin. — John Clerk of Eldin was the sixth son of 
Sir John Clerk of Pennicuik, Bart., and Janet Inglis, daughter 
of Sir John Inglis of Cramoud. He appears to have received, at 
an early period of his life, the estate of Eldin from his father. 
He married Susanna Adam, sister of the celebrated architects, 
and by her he had several children^ 

Near the commencement of the year 1782, Mr Clerk printed 
and distributed among his friends a few copies of the first part of 
his valuable work, entitled " an Essay on Naval Tactics, Sys- 
tematical and Historical, with Explanatory Plates, in Four Parts." 
It was reprinted and published in 1790; the second, third, and 
fourth parts were added in 1797. The work was republished en- 
tire in 1804, with a preface, explaining the origin of the author's 
discoveries in naval tactics. 

Every unprejudiced person must admit that Mr Clerk has intro- 
duced an immense improvement into naval tactics. He was the 
first to discover the line of tactics generally followed by our ene- 
mies, which was the means of preventing our most celebrated na- 



LASSWADE. 827 

val commanders froai achieving tictories, which, there is every 
reason to believe, they would have done, bad the enemy been as 
eager to engage as the British were. In place of this, while the 
enemy's fleet was carrying on a kind of running fight, and our fleet 
was endeavouring to bring on a general engagement, a decisive re- 
sult was seldom or never obtained. During the time that this de-» 
snltory warfare was going on, and many persons were surprized 
that the meeting of hostile fleets generally led to no other conse- 
quence than a certain amount of firing and of skilful manoeuvring, 
it occurred to John Clerk, who had no practical knowledge what- 
ever of naval afiairs, that a remedy might be applied. His reme* 
dy was, to break the line of the enemy, and to direct the whole 
force on one or two divisions of the fleet, whereby either a general 
engagement was necessarily brought on, or the ships attacked were 
sacrificed by the flight of the rest. Ever since this idea has been 
acted on, the most splendid and decisive victories have been ob- 
tained. We are aware that attempts have been made by the re- 
presentatives of some of our greatest naval commanders, to show 
that John Clerk was not the discoverer of the new and successful 
mode of carrying on naval warfare. But we believe that, were the 
heroes themselves still alive, they would willingly concede to Mr 
Clerk the honour of the discovery which has been made in naval 
tactics ; while they satisfied themselves with reaping the laurels of 
the successful execution. 

Mr Clerk died on the 10th of May 1S12, and as yet no monu- 
ment has been erected to his memory in testimony of a nation's 
gratitude. He was the father of the late John Clerk, Esq. Advo- 
cate, who was afterwards raised to the Bench, and took the desig- 
nation of Lord Eldin. 

The late Lord Melville. — The family of Oundas is one of the 
most ancient in Scotland. The Dundases of Amiston and Mel- 
ville are descended from King Robert I. of Scotland by the 
youngest daughter of that monarch, and are connected with the 
royal family of Great Britain by the mother of the first Lord Pre- 
sident Dundas, who was lineally descended froih the Princess Mary, 
eldest daughter of King James H. Of this ancient family, five 
members made a most distinguished appearance on the Bench, and 
four most ably filled the ofiice of Lord Advocate. 

Henry Dundas, the late Lord Melville, was the fourth son 
of Robert Dundas of Arniston, by his second wife, Ann^ daugh-^ 
ter of Sir William Gordon of Invergorden, Bart. He was born 



328 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

28th April 1 742, received the rudiments of his education at the 
school of Dalkeith, aud then proceeded to the university of Tldin- 
burgh, where he manifested in a high degree the distinguished ta« 
lents of his family. 

Mr Dundas was admitted a member of the Faculty of Advocates 
on the 1st March 1763; appointed Solicitor- General in 1766; 
chosen M. P. for his native county of Edinburgh in 1774; re- 
chosen in 1780 ; elected for Newton in Hampshire, in 1782; hav- 
ing accepted the office of Treasurer of the Navy, he was again 
chosen for the county of Edinburgh ; re-chosen in 1784; and elect- 
ed for the city of Edinburgh in 1790, 1796, and 1802. He was 
unanimously called to be Dean of the Faculty of Advocates in 
1775, and was annually elected till 1785, when he relinquished 
his practice at the Bar. He was appointed Lord Advocate in 1775, 
Joint* Keeper of the Signet in 1777, and Sole- Keeper in 1779. 

In Parliament, Mr Dundas was considered an argumentative 
and powerful speaker. In him were united, to a greater extent 
than in any other public man of his day, common sense, political 
sagacity, knowledge of life and affairs, firmness and talents for busi- 
ness* From congeniality of disposition, abilities, and opinions, Mr 
Dundas attached himself to Mr Pitt, and this attachment continued 
unchangeable, on the part of both these illustrious men, amid all 
the vicissitudes of their long and arduous and brilliant career. 

He was appointed President of the Board of Control in 1784, 
which he held till May 1801. He is justly reckoned the second 
founder of the Honourable East India Company. By the en- 
lightened measures which he adopted, and the vigour with which 
he executed them, prosperity was restored to our Eastern empire. 
From 1784 to 1793 he managed that most difficult, extensive, and 
important department gratuitously. 

In 1791, he was appointed Principal Secretary of State for the 
Home Department; and, in 1794, Principal Secretary of State 
for the War Department, which latter office he held till March 
1801. From 1791 to 1801, he voluntarily relinquished the sa- 
lary of his office as Secretary of State, and thus generously saved 
to the public to the amount, as was proved upon oath, of L.34,7d0. 

In reference to the ability with which he dischai^ed the duties 
of his high and important offices. Lord Castlereagh, in a debate 
in the House of Commons, stated, that *^ it was well known that 
Lord Melville enjoyed a faculty for the performance of public 

3 



LASSWADE. 329 

business, greater, perhaps, than that possessed by any other indi- 
yidual in the world." 

Mr Dundas resigned his place of Treasurer of the Navy in May 
1800, of Principal Secretary of State in March 1801, and of Pre- 
sident of the Board of Control in May following, going out of of 
fice with Mr Pitf. In testimony of the approbation of his sove- 
reign, he was constituted Keeper of the Privy Seal in Scotland in 
1800 ; and, in further testimony of the royal approbation, he was 
created a Peer of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ire- 
land. In 1804, he returned into power with Mr Pitt, and was 
appointed First Lord of the Admiralty. These illustrious col- 
leagues then prepared for the vigorous prosecution of the war, 
which has since happily accomplished the object for which it was 
carried on,— the liberation of Europe. 

While Lord Melville was occupied in placing the naval affairs 
of the country on the footing which led to the splendid and deci- 
sive victory of Trafalgar, an unexpected occurrence deprived the 
nation of his services. It appeared that his Lordship, while trea- 
surer, had given a verbal permission to the paymaster of the navy 
to draw, from the Bank of England, money for the service of the 
navy, after the assignments and heads of service had been made 
by the proper boards, in terms of the statute, and* to lodge the 
same in the hands of Messrs Coutts & Co., the bankers of the 
paymaster, till it was demanded. The commissioners appointed 
to investigate this matter gave in a report concluding thus, ^* that' 
the withdrawing of the public money from the Bank of England, 
in the manner and for the purpose before related, was, in our judg- 
ment, a disobedience to the law.^ 

The trial of Lord Melville took place in Westminster Hall, oc- 
cupied sixteen days, and terminated on the 12th of June. His 
Lordship, in accordance with the solemn legal opinion of the 
judges, to whom the points of law were submitted, was trium- 
phantly acquitted. 

On the change of administration his Lordship was sworn a privy 
councillor 8th April 1807, without any 'ministerial office, and had 
the dignity of an earldom offered for his acceptance ; but this 
spontaneous mark of the regard in which he was held by his royal 
master, was respectftiUy declined. Lord Melville was also the first 
named in the commission for inquiring into the administration of 
justice in Scotland. 

The early part of the year 1811 Lord Melville spent in his na- 



330 RDINBrUROUStilRB. 

five country^ He came from Daneira to Edinburgh to attend the 
funeral of President Blair on the 28th of May. On the evening 
of the preceding day, he employed himself in making arrange- 
ments relative to the President's family, and had begun a letter 
to Mr Perceval recommending them to his attention, but which 
be left unfinished. His Lordship was in the habit of rising at 
seven o'clock, and his servant, being surprised when he did not 
appear at the usual hour, entered his room at eight in the morn- 
ing : receiving no answer to his call, he opened the curtains, and 
discovered Lord Melville lying lifeless^ his head resting on one 
arm, and the other extended on the bed-clothes. His Lordship 
had died of disease of the heart, of some years duration, as ap- 
peared on a past mortem examination. 

Thus terminated, in the seventieth year of his age, the life of 
this extraordinary man. He possessed, in a distinguished degree, 
the qualities of a statesman. In the general afiairs of govern- 
ment, his information was accurate and extensive, his advice con- 
siderate, and his sagacity profound ; no dilemma could perplex 
him, no conjuncture alarm him, no opposition could abate his ar- 
dour, and no disaster could shake his firmness. Even the. mas* 
ter-mind of Pitt, with delight, acknowledged the superiority of his 
unrivalled powers. 

There have been erected a statue by Chantrey in the Parlia- 
ment House, and a pillar, similar to Trajan's at Rome, in St An- 
drew's Square, Edinburgh, to commemorate his Lordship's talents 
and services. The subscription for the latter was raised, after hid 
death, chiefly among naval officers, whose profession he had so 
eminently benefited. 

Chief Land-owners. — Mrs Gibsone of Pentland; Lord Mel- 
ville ; Sir Francis Walker Drummond, Bart of Hawthornden ; 
Sir George Clerk, Bart of Pennicuik ; G. C Arbuthnot^ Esq. 
of Mavisbank ; Admiral Sir P. C. H. Durham of Polton ; Alex- 
ander Hay, Esq. of Hardengreen. 

Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers are, in general, 
well kept, and commence soon after the Reformation. 

Antiquities. — At Hawthornden there remains a fragment of an 
old fortalice or castle of unknown antiquity. There is still an 
arch over the only one of the rooms now in existence, and on it 
there is a sycamore or plane tree of considerable dimensions, — 
being probably a seedling of the tree which we are now to mention. 
To the east of this ruin is the famous sycamore tree which is called 



LASSWADE. ^^ 

the Four Sisters^ and is about 24 feet in circumference at the 
base. It was under this tree that Drummond the poet was sitting 
when his friend Ben Jonson arrived from London, and hence it is 
also called Ben Jonson's Tree. Observing his friend approach* 
ing Drummond exclaimed — 

** Welcome, welcome. Royal Ben ;** 

To which Jonson replied with his usual readiness-^ 

<• Thank ye, thank ye, Hawthornden.** 

Adjoining the ruin is a comparatively modern house. Over the 
door of this house^ in marble, are the armorial bearings of the late 
Right Reverend Dr William Abernethy Drummond, Bishop of 
Edinburgh ; and near it is the following inscription : — Divino mumere 
Gulielmus Drummondus Johannis Equitis aurati 61iu8 ut honesto 
otio quiesceret sibi et successoribns instauravit. Anno 1638. In the 
lobby of the house there is a table with a marble slab, having on 
ii the date 1396, and the initials of King Robert III., and of his 
Queen Annabella Drummond. On this table is a large two« 
handed and two-edged sword, said to have belonged to King Ro- 
bert the Bruce. There is also in the lobby a clock, said to have 
belonged to the family since the time of Robert the Bruce. In 
an upper room are a pair of antique shoes, and a silk dress, which 
belonged to Annabella Drummond, Queen of Robert III.; also 
a dress worn by Prince Charles Stuart during his Scottish cam- 
paign of 1745. 

Below this house are two tiers of caves, the lower tier not being 
now accessible. Various conjectures have been made regarding the 
origin and use of these caves. The most probable opinion is, that 
they were made during the destructive wars between the English 
and the Scotch in the thirteenth century. In these caves. Sir 
Alexander Ramsay, who performed many memorable exploits dur- 
ing the contest between Bruce and Baliol, used to conceal himself, 
and so great was his fame as a warrior, that the most aspiring can- 
didates for military renown in those days did not consider their 
education complete till they had served some time under him. The 
most ancient entrance to these caves was by a door in the centre of 
the perpendicular rock that overlooks the river, and which was ac- 
cessible only by a flight of steps and a narrow pathway now de- 
stroyed. The present entrance is by a door on the south side, by 
which visitors descend a few steps, and pass along a narrow pas- 
sage called the King's Gallery, 75 feet long and 6 feet broad. 
The first cave on the left, to which there is a descent of two steps, 



832 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

is denominated the King's Bed-Chamber. Farther on, is a com- 
munication with a well, to which we shall afterwards advert. Pro- 
ceeding a little way, and ascending a few steps on the left, is an 
apartment with 175 square apertures, cut in the rock, called the 
King's Guard Room. On the opposite side of the passage is 
another apartment, known by the name of the Kin^s Dining 
Room. In the court formed by the old tower and the modem 
house is a well cut in the solid rock, which is said to have served 
the double purpose of being an entrance to the caves, with which 
it has a communication, and of supplying the inhabitants of the 
caves with water, when they were shut oui; from all intercourse with 
the world above. 

At the west end of the modern house is a seat hewn out of the 
solid rock, from which, in a summer day, may be obtained one of 
the most charming views which the eye of man can behold. To 
this end of the house is affixed the following remarkable inscrip- 
tion : ^^ To the memory of Sir Lawrence Ahernethy of Hawthorn- 
den, second son to Sir William Abernetby of Salton, a brave and 
gallant soldier, who, at the head of a party in the year 1388, con- 
quered Lord Dowglas five times in one day, yet was taken prisoner 
before sunset" — (Ford. Lib. xiii. cap. 44.) 

There is also an inscription to the memory of Drummond the 
poet, and a dedication of the stone-seat by Bishop Drummond. 
But, as the poetry is from Young, it is unnecessary to quote it. 

To the north of the house is a room cut out of the rock, 16 feet 
by 12, and about 6 feet high. The room seems to be of conside- 
rable antiquity, and there are four recesses in the sides of it 

Still farther to the north is a pretty large recess cut in the free- 
stone rock, called the Cypress Grotto. This was a favourite re- 
treat of the poet, and he is said to have composed some of his 
poems in it 

WaUac^9 Cave. — On the same side of the river North Esk, 
and about half a mile farther up the river than Hawthomden, is 
Wallace's Cave. This cave is in the form of a cross, and is ca- 
pable of holding sixty or seventy men. Like the caves, which we 
have already mentioned, it is evidently artificial. 

Wallaces Cast or Camp* — This military station is situated on the 
north side of Bilston Burn, and about a mite from its* confluence 
with the river North Esk. It is in the form of a half-moon, and 
defended by a broad and deep ditch. The semicircle measures 
84 yards, and the average dimensions of the ditch are the follow- 



LASSWADE. S33 

ing: width at top, 10 yards; width at bottom, 5 yards; depth, 
8 yards. The diameter runs parallel with the bum, and rests on 
the top of the high and steep bank, while the arc extends upwards 
from the bank. 

The Cast, — At Springfield, stretching in a south-east direction 
from a ford in the river North Esk, is a deep and narrow road, 
named Tlie Castj probably a contraction for Via ad cattra* This 
road, in several places, is nearly six feet below the surface of the 
adjoining fields ; and it is so confined in breadth, that it can admit 
only of a single cart at a time. It is of unknown antiquity, and 
probably was* one of the old Roman roads by which intercourse 
was kept up between two camps. Should this conjecture be cor- 
rect, this road must have been in existence for at least fifteen or 
sixteen hundred years. There is not more of it now remaining 
than about half a mile. 

Military Station. — Near Mavisbank House, which is on the op- 
posite side of the river North Esk from Springfield, is a mound of 
earth, of considerable elevation* It is circular in its form, and sur- 
rounded with ramparts, now cut into terraces. Here, several ar- 
ticles made of brass, and evidently belonging to a remote period, 
have been found. Among these are weapons, bridle-bits, chirur- 
gical instruments, sHliy JUfula, &c They are still to be seen at 
Penicuik House, the seat of the former proprietor. On a neigh- 
bouring farm is a tumulus, where several urns, filled with burnt 
bones, have been dug up. 

Modem Buildings. — The most remarkable is Melville Castle, 
the elegant seat of Lord Melville. It was built more than half a 
century ago on the site of the old house of that name, which, tra- 
dition says, belonged to David Rizzio, and was occasionally inha- 
bited by Queen Mary. 

Mavisbank House is also an elegant building, and is situated in 
one of the most picturesque localities in Scotland. 

Springfield House, the residence of the Honourable Mrs Leslie 
Gumming, is placed in a situation which is unrivalled in beauty. 

Milb. — There are two corn-mills in the parish, both below the 
village of Lasswade, on the Esk. 

1 1 1. — Population. 
In the parish of Lasswade, quoad civilia, the number of the po- 
pulation at different periods was as follows :-— 

In 1755» 2190 

1791, dOOO 

1881, 4252 

1841, 5022 



334 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

This iocreJEise of the population has been chiefly owing to the in« 
crease of manufactures. 

IV. — Industry. 

Manufactures. — The two principal articles maQufiEu^iitred are 
paper and carpets. We shall notice them separately. 

Paper. — There are thfee paper-mills in the parish. In all of 
these, machines are at work day and night, and the quantity of 
paper made is immense. The paper which is made is intended 
either for writing or for printing on. The number of hands em- 
ployed, including both sexes and all ages, amounts to several hun- 
dreds. In order to show the progressive increase of the paper 
trade, we shall quote part of a letter received from a respectable 
proprietor.of one of the mills. ^' At present,'^ he says, ^^ we em- 
ploy about the work above 1 50 men, women, boys, and girls, pay- 
ing them above L.2600 a year of wages; but, including other 
tradesmen occasionally employed, our wages' bill will not be under 
L.dOOO a year. Our consumpt of coals is upwards of 2000 tons 
yearly. Our excise duty, which, in 1813, was L.800 a year, has 
risen to about L.5500 ; and, as the duty is now only one-half what it 
was then, being now l^d. per pound, instead of dd., our duties at 
the old rate would be L. 11,000 a year. I have no doubt our 
neighbours have increased in the same proportion." 

Carpets. — The work at St Anne's, to which our attention is now 
to be directed, is one of the most ingenious in the country. In 
general it is a manufactory of the finer sorts of carpets, and da- 
masks for furniture, and in which about 100 people are employed. 
It has been established at Lasswade only since 1634; but in that 
short time, it has become known pretty generally through the 
country, from the peculiarity of some of the fabrics which are 
made. Besides carpets on the principle of the Tournay and Ax- 
minster kind, made to fit all sizes and shapes of rooms without 
seam, and which are made at only a few other places in this coun- 
try, Richard Whytock & Co., the proprietors, manufacture a new 
sort of Brussels carpet, of great beauty, which resembles tapestry 
in its general effect, and which they call Tapestry Brussels ; also 
a fabric in velvet pile, quite novel in its appearance. These two 
fabrics are produced by a new process of their own invention, which 
is applicable also to other fabrics, to which they purpose to apply it 
As the principle is patented, it is not kept secret It consists of a 
combination of the two hitherto rival methods of producing figures 
on cloth, namely, the arts of weaving and printing ; and, at the 

4 



LASSWADE. 335 

same time, is a simplification of both processes to a wonderful de- 
gree. In regard to the weaving, this is reduced to the simplest 
process possible, as all the intricate machinery of the Brussels and 
Wilton looms, with their expensive harness, is superseded. And, 
as to the printing, the same implements are made to produce all 
patterns, no matter how dissimilar. 

The productions of the manufactory are already in much re* 
quest in London, and have found their way to various parts of the 
world. 

Mr Henderson is the resident partner at the manufactory, and, 
under his management, aided by a very talented designer of pat-* 
terns, the improvement is steadily progressive ; so that it is not 
easy to say to what perfection this manufacture may be advanced, 
the more so as there is scarcely any limit to the number of colours 
or shades that may be introduced, with scarcely any additional 
expense. 

Mr Babbage, in his Economy of Manufactures, enumerates a 
variety of methods of multiplying figures ; but he was not aware 
of this one, which differs very widely from all those he describes 
in his very useful publication. 

The manufactory is visited by great numbers of persons, who 
are most courteously received by the intelligent and enterprising 
gentlemen connected with the establishment. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Market-Towns. — There are no market-towns in the parish. 
Dalkeith and Edinburgh are the two market-towns resorted to ; 
the former being distant two miles, and the latter six miles. 

ViUaget. — The principal villages in the parish are, Lasswade, 
Loaahead, and Pentland. 

Means of Communieation. — There are two post-offices in the 
parish, each having two arrivals and two departures in one day. 
The turnpike roads extend in length to about twelve miles. A 
coach runs several times each lawful day between Lasswade and 
Edinburgh, by Loanhead. The Dumfries MaiUCoach, and a 
stage-coach from the Wellington Inn, near Pennicuik, pass 
through a small part of the parish, on their way to tUid from Edin- 
burgh. 

Eccksiastical State* — The church is situated about a mile and 
a-half from the east end of the parish, and about four and a-half 
miles from the west end. It was built in 1793, and is remarkable 
for the beauty of its situation. It is one of the most elegant and 



336 EDINBUBOHSHIRE. 

commodious country churches in Scotland, and is seated for up- 
wards of 1000 persons. During the last few years, it has under- 
gone several extensive repairs and alterations, which reflect the 
highest credit on the liberality, taste, and judgment of the heri- 
tors of the parish. 

The manse was built in 1789, and cost Lf.500. It stands on 
an eminence near the church, and, in its immediate neighbour- 
hood, is the ruin of the old church ; the three objects forming a 
group remarkable for its beauty. The glebe extends to 8 acres, 
and is worth about L.40 per annum. The stipend amounts to 
about L.200 per annum. In the Taxatio it is rated at 90 marks, 
which exhibit a higher rate than any church in Mid- Lothian, ex- 
cept St Cuthberts. 

The church-yard has been vastly improved within the last few 
years. In the centre of it stands the ruin of the old church, 
which has been converted into family vaults. 

There are two Dissenting chapels in the parish, the one be- ' 
longing to the Reformed Presbyterian Church, and the other to 
the United Secession Church. Their ministers are paid by vo- 
luntary contribution. 

About two-thirds of the inhabitants belong to the Established 
Church, and the remaining one-third to the Dissenters. Divine 
service is well attended at the parish church. The number of 
communicants at the parish church is about 700. Annual collec- 
tions are made at the church door for each of the five schemes of 
the General Assembly. Last year they amounted collectively to 
the sum of L.70, lOs. The ordinary collections, last year, 
amounted to L.79, 9s. Sd. 

Education. — There are eight schools in the parish. They are 
all in an efficient state. 

The ordinary branches of education are taught in all the schools. 
An excellent education may be received at the parochial school, 
where, besides the usual branches, are taught Latin, Greek, 
French, and mathematics. 

The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum salary, and ac- 
commodation for several boarders. The school is numerously at- 
tended, and the fees are very considerable in am(5unt. The 
schoolmaster at Pentland has a salary of L.20 per annum, a free 
school-house, and a free dwelling-house. The school-house is a 
spacious and elegant building, erected wholly at the expense of 
Mrs Gibsone of Pentland. This lady also gives the salary and 



ROSLIN* dS7 

the dwelIin^*hotise« The schoolmaster at Hawthnrnden has a 
salary of L.5 per annum and a free school house* 

Libraries. — 'There is an excelleut subscription library at Loan- 
head, and there^ is- another at Lasswade* 

Friendly Societies. — There are various societies of this descrip* 
tion in the parish, which are of great public benefit. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers on the 

roll is 75. Besides these, there is a considerable number of per- 
sons who receive occasional assistance. 

The contributions for the relief of the poor are made from the 
foUawing sources, viz. collections at the church door ; the interest 
of a capital stock of L.333, 6s. 8d. ; and an assessment. 

Last year, the sum given to the poor amounted to L.56d, 6s. Id. 

Rental of the Parish. — The following are the items of the pa- 
rish rental : 

Rental of land, . . L.12,974 2 3 

Do. houseis . 4,349 18 9 

Feu-duties» . . 606 8 



L.17,9d0 9 

June 1848. 

PARISH OF ROSLIN. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEKDDALB. 

THE REV. DAVID BROWN, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
^afiif.-^THE name Roslin, which is now in common use, or 
Rosslyn, as it is spelled in the title of the Earl of Rosslyn, or Ros- 
ling, as it is generally found in the records of the Presbytery of 
Dalkeith, seems to be compounded of two Celtic words, ross and 
lynHf signifying promontory and waterfall ; because Roslin Castle, 
which was the original residence of the noble family to whom it 
still belongs, is situated near to a place where the river North Esk 
runs over a very rugged and sloping channel, emphatically called 
to this day ^' The Lynn*" It is probable that the name Roslin, 
pr Rosslyn, or Rosling, never was applied to any large extent of 

EDINBURGH. Y 



33d EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ground around the castle, because the names of the neighbouring 
baronies seem to be of as great antiquity. At present it is em- 
ployed to designate the castle and the chapel, with the small land- 
ed property connected with them ; and also the village of Roslin, 
which is mostly situated on a different estate. Besides, the name 
Roslin has been lately given to a new parish, which is wholly a 
disjunction quoad sacra from Lasswade. This disjunction was 
made by the Presbytery of Dalkeith, in 1835, in consequence of 
an Act of the General Assembly, in 1834, called the Chapel Act ; 
and it is this parish of which it is proposed now to give an account* 

Extent, — The extreme length of the parish is 5^ miles, and its 
extreme breadth is 3| miles. It contains about 10 square miles, 
and is somewhat irregular in its shape. 

Boundaries. — It is bounded on the north by Lasswade parish ; 
on the east by Cockpen and Carrington parishes; and on the 
south and west by Pennicuik and Glencross parishes. 

Topographical Appearances. — While the parish rises gradually 
from north to south, partly up the course of the river North Esk, 
it is, at the same time, most beautifully and romantically diversi- 
fied in its character. The river North Esk, which traverses the 
parish little more than a mile, but which forms its boundary for 
about five miles, is one of the most remarkable streams in Scot- 
land for magnificent scenery, from its commencement in the Pent- 
land Hills, to its termination in the Frith of Forth, at Mussel- 
burgh. It is chiefly, however, in that part of the Vale of the Esk 
which has been denominated ^^ Roslin's rocky glen," where there 
is the principal concentration of beauty and grandeur. 

Temperatiire.--^The parish, varying in elevation from 300 to 
upwards of 800 feet above the level of the sea, possesses an at- 
mosphere considerably lower in temperature than that of the me- 
tropolis, from which it is distant about seven miles. 

The climate has been often remarked to be uncommonly salu- 
brious in its nature. It is probable that there are few localities 
on the face of the earth, where the average rate of mortality is 
lower than it is in the village and vicinity of Roslin. 

Springs^ — Along the precipitous banks of the Esk, there are 
multitudes of springs of the purest water. One of these, in the 
neighbourhood of the castle, is named St Matthew's Well, from 
vrhiefa the greater number of the inhabitants of Roslin village are 
supplied with water. The extreme purity of the water of this well 

k owing to its filtering through a very deep stratum of gravel ; 

3 



ROSLIN. 330 

and this may be regarded as one cause of the salubrity of the sur* 
rounding district 

Coal'tnines. — In one district of the parish, which is named 
Rosewell, are situated several coaUmines, from which an abundant 
f upply of fuel is obtained by the inhabitants of the neighbourhood ; 
but the price is high on account of the vicinity of the metropolis. 
There are 51 families, consisting of 269 individuals, wholly de- 
pendent on these coal-works for their support. 

Lately, two eminent engineers gave in a report to George 
Mercer, Esq. of Dryden, which states that, on his property, there 
are not less than 30,000,000 of tons of coal. The coal in this 
property was wrought to a considerable extent in former times ^ 
and arrangements are now being made for working it to a great 
extent. 

II. — Civil History. 
Mantucript Account. — In -the Advocates' Library there is a 

beautiful manuscript, in three volumes folio, consisting of historical 

records, dated in 1700, and written by Father Richard Augustine 

Hay, Prior of St Piermont in France, and a cadet of the family 

of Rosslyn. There is, inter alia^ in this work, ^^ a Genealogie of 

the Saint Claires of Rosslyn," including *^ the Chartellary of 

Rosslyn." In 1885, an accurate copy of this Genealogie and 

Chartellary was printed in quarto from the original manuscript. 

But it is scarce, as only 12 copies large paper, and 108 copies 

small paper, were published : the price of each of the large copies 

being L.2, 12s. 6d., and that of the small being 18s. 

Published Accounts. — In the year 1827 was published a ^^ His- 
torical and Descriptive Account of Rosslyn Chapel and Castle, 
with eight engravings." There has also been published, without 
a date, but some years later than the preceding work, ^^ M^Dow- 
all's New Guide to Roslin, being a Historical and Descriptive 
Account of the Chapel and Castle of Roslin and Hawthornden, 
with engravings on steel." Both of these publications are small ; 
and some use of them, as well as of the manuscript mentioned 
above, will be made in this Statistical Account. 

Ancient Battle.— On the 24th of February 1302, a little way 
to the north of Roslin village, there was fought a very famous 
battle, or rather succession of battles, between the Scotch and 
the English armies, when the Scotch forces, consisting of 8000 
men, under the command of Sir Simon Frazer and John Comyn, 
defeated the forces of the English, consisting of 30,000 men, and 



340 bdinburghshibf:. 

commanded by John de Segrave, who had previously divided his 
troops into three equal divisions, and brought th0m up in succes- 
sion to the conflict** 

Land'Oioners* — The following are the chief land-owners of the 
parish, viz. Robert Balfour Wardlaw Ramsay, Esq. of Whitehill ; 
Sir George Clerk, Bart, of Pennicuik ; Sir Norman Macdonald 
Liockhart, Bart, of Lee and Carnwatb ; George Mercer, Esq. of 
Dryden ; Robert Brown, Esq. of Firth ; John Inglis, Esq. of 
Auchindinny; Sir Francis Walker Drummond, Bart, of Haw- 
thornden ; the Earl of Rosslyn ; the Earl of Rosebery ; Archibald 
Haig, Esq. of Seafield. 

Antiquities. — The principal antiquities are, Roslin Chapel and 
Roslin Castle; the former being in a state of excellent pre- 
servation, while the latter has long been in a most ruinous con- 
dition. 

Roslin Chapel, — The founder of the illustrious family, to which 
the chapel owes its erection, was one of the many Anglo-Norman 
barons, whom the policy of King Malcolm Canmore allured from 
England, after the Conquest, to settle in Scotland, where exten- 
sive grants of land were bestowed on them. His name was Wil- 
liam de Santo Claro, the second son of Waldernus Compte de 
St Claro^ who came to England with William the Conqueror in 
the year 1066. His mother was Margaret, daughter to Richard 
Duke of Normandy, and he was called, for his fair deportment, 
^^ the Seemly St Clair." This William de Santo Claro obtained 
from King Malcolm a grant of the lands and the barony of Roslin. 
These possessions were greatly increased by grants of land to the 
family from succeeding monarchs. 

Founder of the ChapeL — The founder of the chapel was Wil- 
liam St Clair, Prince of Orkney, and Duke of Oldenburgh, and 
the name of his princess was Elizabeth Douglas.f The existing 
title of Earl of Rosslyn is British, and was Grst conferred on the 

* There are several names of places cominemorative of circumstances connected 
vith this battle, such as <* the Shin-banes Field,'* where many bones were aftennards 
found ; ^< the Hewan," where the onslaught of the enemy was most dreadful, from 
the precipitous nature of the ground ; ^* the Stinking Rig/' where multitudes of 
the slain were buried, and, not being sufficiently covered, emitted an intolerable 
stench ; and <^ the KiUburn,'* a small brook said to have been discoloured with 
blood for three days. Tradition reports that Mount Marl, the name of a farm 
belonging to Sir Francis Walker Drummond, Bart, of Hawthornden« and which 
was included in the scene of the battle, derived its name from the following incident s 
When the English forces were on the point of being finally routed, Marl, one of 
their leaders, is said to have received this imp<»tant hint from one of his retainers, 
<( Mount, Marl, and ride." 

f The various titles are recited in Father Hay*i manuscript referred to. 



R08LIN. 341 

Lord Chancellor Wedderburn, Lord Loughborough, from whom 
h descended to his nephew, the late Earl, who was succeeded by 
his SOD, the present Earl, to whom belong the lands, Castle, and 
Chapel of Roslin. 

Koslin Chapel is situated in the vicinity of Roslin village, on a 
rising ground called the College Bill^ on the northern bank of the 
Esk, amidst the most lovely and romantic scenery of which Scot* 
iand can boast. 

- The chapel was founded in 1446, as a collegiate church, for 
a provost, six prebendaries, and two choristers or singing boys, 
and, when finished, was consecrated to St Matthew the Apostle, 
and endowed with lands and other revenues. Its founder, WiU 
Ham St Clair, intending that it should be possessed of the utmost 
splendour, employed in the erection of it the most excellent ma* 
sons in Europe, whom he attracted to his service by great rewards. 

The chapel was originally intended to be in the form of a cross, 
with a lofty tower in the centre, but was never completed, in con« 
sequence of the death of the founder in 1484; — the choir and 
east wall of the transept only having been erected, while the re- 
maining parts could scarcely be said to have been commenced. 
That part of the building which has been finished, is in the style 
of architecture which is called the florid Gothic. Elegance and 
variety are its distinguishing characteristics. While every sepa- 
rate department is executed with almost inimitable beauty, all 
the parts are different ; every window, every pillar, and every arch 
being distinguished from all the rest by ornamental workmanship 
of the most profuse and exquisite description. As an instance of 
the variety, as well as the beauty and elegance of this wonderful 
chapel, it may be mentioned that there are more than thirteen 
different kinds of arches to be found in it. The energies of the 
most accomplished stone-cutters that could be found, at the time 
when masonry had been brought to its utmost perfection, seem to 
have been expended in making the choir of this chapel a gem 
unique in its kind. 

Having entered the court leading to the chapel by a door-way, 
surmounted by an antique coronet, helmet, and shield, elegantly 
carved in stone, you have a view of the north side of the chapel. 
The north front consists of two walls ; the uppermost extending 
behind the five western buttresses, and resting on the arches of 
the side aisles in the interior. In the gfouud wall are five large 
windows, the ornaments of which are all varied ; and, in the up- 



342 EDINDURQHSHIUK. 

per wall, there is a similar row of windows. On the ground wall 
are seven buttressesi with curious canopied niches, and bracket 
pedestals, apparently intended for the reception of small statues. 
The buttresses are surmounted by richly ornamented conical and 
square pinnacles, embellished with crockets ; and the niches are 
all varied in their decorations, but with a tasteful uniformity in 
their arrangements. The pinnacles of the five westmost but- 
tresses are joined to a corresponding number of smaller ones 
behind, by flying arches. One of these has a double pinnacle, 
richly adorned with bands, and displaying a triple crown. The 
pinnacle behind it is connected by a flying abutment with the up«* 
per wall of the chapel, at the angle of which is seen a third pin- 
nacle, having ornaments resembling those seen in Grecian archi- 
tecture. 

The north door, by which visitors are admitted to the chapel, 
is approached under an arched porch, which has two crouching 
human figures inserted into the buttresses on both sides for its 
abutments, one of these figures having a key, and supposed to be 
St Peter. Its mouldings are richly carved, forming small paterae 
of foliage. The two buttresses which flank this door are deserv- 
ing of attention ; that on the east is enriched by a canopied niche, 
the pinnacle of which is highly ornamented with crochets and 
tracery, and is supported by a column pedestal* The west but- 
tress has a canopy equal in the beauty of its sculpture to the other, 
but without a pinnacle, and supported by a bracket pedestal, un- 
der which is a small figure in the act of doing penance. Above 
the door is a small window, in the form of a circular triangle, 
which lights part of the north aisle, both sides of which are boldly 
sculptured with foliage. On the east side of the door, at the 
bottom of the architrave of the lower window, is the representa- 
tion of a fox carrying off a goose, and a farmer delivering the un- 
fortunate bird from the jaws of the plunderer ; and, in the opp<H 
site corner of the same window, is a cherub playing on a musical 
instrument. 

The south front is similar to the north, with the exception of 
the door, which is composed of receding arches richly ornamented* 
In front is an arched porch, having, for an abutment on each side, 
a cherub waving a scroll. The mouldings of the^arch are orna- 
mented at regular distances with foliage. Above the door is a 
small window, of the form of an equilateral spherical triangle, pre- 



R08LIN. 343 

senting within its perimeter three Gothic points of great elegance, 
and it is ornamented all round with a double row of foliage. 

At the east end of the chapel are four windows of uniform size, 
but varied in their ornaments ; and five buttresses, each having a 
canopied niche with a column pedestal, and a bracket pedestal 
alternately, and surmounted by circular pinnacles. 

The west end of the chapel is terminated by a blank wall, clos- 
ing the centre and side aisles, and rising above the roof; and on 
the summit of the wall is a small belfry. In this wall are three 
door*ways, opening to the middle and side aisles ; but it is long 
since they have been built up. Each door-way outside has a 
square top or architrave, resting on imposts of richly sculptured 
capitals. Three ornamental piscinas and eight brackets are in- 
serted in the wall parallel with the doors ; and two brackets are 
elevated high in the wall, on one of which is represented the 
descent from the cross, and on the other the angels rolling away 
the stone from the door of the sepulchre. At each end of the ar- 
chitrave of the central door, is a human 6gure : that on the north 
represents a man bound by his middle and ankles to a tree, his 
hands being tied behind his back, and a man at each foot holding 
the ropes he is tied with. This is St Sebastian, who, according 
to the legend, was condemned by the Roman emperor Dioclesian, 
to be fastened to a tree, and shot with arrows ; the two men at his 
feet are two soldiers, crouching lest the arrows should strike them, 
and two arrows are represented as sticking in the left side of the mar- 
tyr, while he presents a serene and determined countenance to his 
])ersecutors. The figure on the south side appears to be of gi- 
gantic size, with a large stick in his left hand, and a child sitting 
on his right shoulder. This is St Christopher, a giant, who, as 
the legend says, on one occasion, carried the Saviour on his shoul- 
der across a river, supporting himself with the torn-up trunk of a 
tree, while he was ready to sink under the load. He knew not 
whom he carried till he reached the opposite shore, when Christ, 
in the form of a child, blessed him, and disappeared. All this is 
naturally expressed by the carving. 

No sooner does a visitor enter the chapel than he is struck with 
the immense profusion and the wonderful variety of the ornaments ; 
and, above all, with the grandeur and magnificence of the lofty 
roof, which is composed of a vast Gothic arch, divided into five 
compartments, each of them remarkable for the beauty and the 
diversity of its decorations. The roof of the chapel is supported 



344 EDINBUBGHSHIRE. 

by sixteen most elegant Gothic pillars, seven on each side of the 
building, and two at the east end of it. The height of the chapel 
inside, from the floor to the top of the high-arched roof, is 40 feet 
8 inches ; its length is 69 feet ; and its breadth is 34 feet 8 inches. 

The floor of the east chapel is elevated one step ; and its arched 
roof is only 15 feet in height. Here stood four altars, viz. one 
which is elevated two steps from the floor of the east chapel, and 
which seems to be improperly called the high altar, having more 
probably been dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; and other three aU 
tars on the floor of this chapel, which were dedicated respectively 
to St Matthew, St Peter, and St Andrew. The top stones of 
these four altars have been removed, but the bodies of them re- 
main, in a great measure, entire, — the very state in which they 
are described as being, about 250 years ago, in the records of the 
Presbytery of Dalkeith. 

The east chapel is separated from the eastern aisle by three 
pillars, which are connected by arches with the east wall, dividing 
the roof into four equal spaces. The groinings of the ceiling are 
of surprising grandeur and elegance, and the florid character of 
their ornaments is infinitely varied. The key-stones of the arches 
are beautiful pendants, each upwards of two feet in length ; that 
at the south end, immediately above what has been called the high 
altar, but which is rather to be considered as the altar dedicated 
to the Virgin Mary, is ornamented with foliage. The second pen- 
dant is enriched in a similar manner. Immediately below this 
pendant, the late Earl of Rosslyn, who died in 1837, is interred. 
The escutcheon of his armorial bearings is suspended above ; and 
his remains, like those of his countess, are covered with a large 
flag stone. The third pendant terminates in a representation of 
the star of Bethlehem, with eight figures carved around it. At 
the south point of the star is the Virgin, with the Babe in her arms; 
on the next point, to her right, is the manger ; on other three 
points are three eastern kings, each having a sceptre in his hand ; 
and on the remaining three points are representations of Death. 
Immediately below this pendant, the late Countess of Rosslyn 
(Miss Bouverie) is interred* The fourth pendant is ornamented 
with foliage. 

On the side of one of the arches, springing from the angle 
formed by the north and the east walls, and resting on the oppo« 
site pillar, there are several small figures, which were supposed to 
represent the resurrection, but they are now believed to be the 



ROSLIN. 345 

Dauce of Death. Commencing at the top of the arch, and 
descending to the right, the figures, which can be recognized, are, 
a king, a courtier, a cardinal, a bishop, a lady admiring her por-> 
trait, an abbess, and an abbot ; and each of these is accompanied 
with a figure of death dancing off with his prey. Again, com-* 
mencing at the top of the arch, and descending to the left, the 
following figures are quite distinct : a farmer, a husband and wifey 
a child, a sportsman, a gardener and spade, a carpenter, and 
a ploughman. Each of these also is accompanied by a figure 
of death, carrying off the individual ; and he is represented as in 
the act of making the separation between the husband and wife* 
On the capitals of the three pillars, which are between the east 
aisle and the east chapel, are thirteen angels with musical instru-» 
ments, representing the heavenly host praising God. At the 
south end of the east chapel, the arch is ornamented with human 
figures, and also with foliage ; the human figures being supposed 
to be a warrior, with helmet, and sword, and spear ; and a monk 
drinking, a crouched figure of death, a man with wide sleeves, 
a soldier, a female praying, a woman sitting in a chair, and a 
queen. 

On the architrave of the north aisle connecting the first and second 
pillar from the east, Samson is represented pulling down the house on 
the Philistines. The capital of the third pillar has an elephant, Sam- 
son killing the lion, and two hands grasping cockle*shells; and the 
capital of the opposite pilaster has a shield bearing a lamb, which 
carries a banner within a double tressure* The capital of the 
pext pillar represents the angels rolling back the stone from the 
door of the sepulchre. The capital of the next pillar has the 
disciples looking from afar to the crucifixion, which is represented 
on the capital of the opposite pilaster, where nine figures and a 
ladder are to be distinctly seen. On the next and last pillar in 
this row are represented two doves, and the prodigal son feeding 
swine. 

On the west wall of the north aisle, in the corner^ is the menu** 
ment of George, Earl of Caithness, with the following inscription 
in capital letters : " Hie jacet nobilis ac potens Dominus Georgius 
quondam comes Cathanensis Dominus Sinclar, jusliciarius Here-* 
ditarius diocesis Cathanensis, qui obiit Edinburgi 9 die mensi& 
Septembris, anno Domini 1582.'' 

Above the inscription are his armorial bearings, with the motto^ 
*-' Commit thv verk to God." 



346 EDINBUnGHSHlRlS. 

At the foot of the third and fourth pillars, and between them 
and the north wall, there is a large flagstone covering the mouth 
of a vault, in which ten barons of Rosslyn were buried before 
1690. It is so remarkably drj, that when the bodies of some 
of them were inspected eighty years after their interment, they 
were found in a state of perfect preservation. It was an ancient 
custom of this princely house, that all its barons were Buried with- 
out any coffin in their armour. Father Hay, alluding to this cus* 
torn, observes, ^^ The late Rosslyn, my good fetther, grandfisither 
to the present Rosslyn, was the first that was buried in a coffin^ 
against the sentiments of James VII., who was then in Scotland, 
and several other persons, well versed in antiquity, to whom my 
mother (Jean Spottiswood, grandniece of Archbishop Spottis- 
wood,) would not hearken, thinking it beggarly to be buried after 
that manner. The great expense she was at in burying her hus- 
band occasioned the sumptuary acts which were made in the fol- 
lowing Parliaments."* 

On the floor, between the fourth and fifth pillars, from the west 
end, in the north aisle, there is a coarse. flat stone, having cut upon 
it the rough outline of a man in armour, with his hands lifted up 
and joined as if engaged in prayer, with a greyhound at his feet, 
and a lion rampant in a small shield at each side of his head. 
This is supposed to mark the tomb of Sir William St Clair of 
Rosslyn, of whom Father Hay relates an interesting adventure. 

Centre Aisle, — The upper part of the centre aisle is lighted by 
five arched windows on each side, between which are canopies and 
brackets, twelve on the north side, and twelve on the south side, 
supposed to be for the Twelve Apostles, and as many saints and 
martyrs. In the east end is a beautiful arched window ; and be« 
low the centre of this window, is a niche of superior size and ele- 
gance, supposed to be intended for a statue of the Saviour or the 
Virgin. 

South ilt«/e.<— On the north side of the arch, connecting the 
second and third columns of the south range, from the west, are 
represented the Twelve Apostles, and four of the primitive Mar- 
tyrs, bearing the insignia of the deaths they respectively suffered. 
On the east side of the south door, is a beautiful font in the wall, 
which is much admired. 

* To the custom mentioned aboTOi and also to the tradition, that the turrets of the 
chapel were supernaturally illumined by flames, upon the death of any member of 
the Rosslyn femily, Sir Walter Soott alludes, in beautiful verses, in the Lay of the 
Last Minstrel. 



KosLI^f. 947 

On the west side of the architrave, coDnecting the second piU 
lar from the east with the south wall, are represented the follow* 
ing figures, viz. a bishop in his pontifical garments and insigniaf 
and giving the blessing, with the right hand lifted up, and the two 
forefingers distinctly pointing out, — a man, supposed to be the 
proud Pharisee ; a drunkard with a flagon at his mouth ; a woman 
giving a cup to a man ; the careless shepherd ; the rich fool ; the 
miser with his hands in his pockets ; two lovers ; and, lastly, a 
devil in the mouth of a crocodile, emblematical of hell, stretching 
out his claws towards the other figures. The figures are survey- 
ed with a grin of delight by Satan himself from the west jamb of 
the third window, from the east, in the south ground wall. It i» 
quite evident that the figures in this range are intended to repre- 
sent the principal vices, with the church offering salvation from 
them, and the spirits of darkness expecting that they will lead 
their votaries to everlasting destruction. The arch of the adjoin* 
ing window represents the nine orders of angels. . 

On the opposite side of this architrave, there are represented a 
cardinal bishop ; a cripple, supported by crutches, leading a blind 
man ; one person clothing the naked ; another visidng the sick ; 
another visiting those in prison ; a female attending the fatherless ; 
one feeding the hungry ; two bui:ying the dead, one at the head 
and another at the feet ; and St Peter with a key. It is abundant- 
ly evident that the figures in this range are intended to represent 
the principal virtues, and the admission of those who practise 
them into the kingdom of heaven. Tbe arch of the adjoining win- 
dow is adorned with twelve human figures. 

The Apprentices PiV/ar.-— This pillar, which is the most easter- 
ly in the south row, and stands in the south-east corner of the cha- 
pel, is perfectly unique, and remarkably beautiful. Around the 
shaft are four wreaths of flowers, all difierent from one another, 
all exhibiting specimens of the most delicate chiselling, and all as- 
cending, in a spiral form, from the base to tbe capital, at the dis- 
tance of eighteen inches from one another. On the base of the 
pillar are several dragons chained together by the heads, and mu- 
tually entwined. On the south side of the capital, Isaac is repre- 
sented lying on the altar, with the ram caught by the horns in a 
thicket ; and, on the east end of the architrave, connecting this 
elegant pillar with the one to the west, is Abraham standing in 
view of his devoted son, with his hands lifted up in prayer. On 
tbe opposite end is a man playing on bagpipes, and another man 



348 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

recumbent at his feet And^ on the architrave, which connects the 
epprentice's pillar with the corresponding pilaster on the south 
wall, is seen the following inscription in Old English or Saion 
characters, on the west side : ^^ Forte est vinum, fortior est rex, 
fortiores sunt mulieres ; super omnia vincit Veritas, L Exd. Chap. 
3, ver. 10-12." 

There is a tradition relating to the apprentice's pillar, which has 
prevailed for ages in the family of Rossljn. The model of it was 
sent from Rome, but the master-mason, distrusting his own capa- 
city to Gnish it, without inspecting the original pillar from which 
it was taken, went to Rome to examine it« In his absence, one 
of his apprentices undertook the task, and completely succeeded, 
which so enraged the master on his return, that be lifted a ham- 
mer and killed him on the spot. The three heads at the west end 
of the chapel are understood to be commemorative of this tragedy. 
Nearly half-way up the transept wall, in the south-west corner of 
the body of the chapel, is a head, with a cut above the right eye, 
which is said to represent the head of the apprentice, who finished 
the remarkable pillar. In a line with it, and above the second piU 
hir of the south aisle, from the west, is the head of a woman weep- 
ing, intended for the mother of the apprentice lamenting the un- 
timely death of her son. And, in the north-west comer, is the head 
of an old man frowning, representingthe head of the master- 
mason. 

Sacristy or Vestry, — In the south-east corner of the chapel, and 
below the place where the elevated altar stood, is a subterraneous 
staircase of twenty-four steps, conducting, through an arch, to a 
smaller chapel, which was used as a sacristy or vestry. This was 
erected by the first lady of William, the founder of the great cha- 
pel. Dame Elizabeth Douglas, formerly Countess of Buchan, and 
daughter of Archibald, the second Earl of Buchan of that name. 
Though the passage to this sacristy or vestry is subterraneous, it- 
self is above ground, and rests on the edge of the bank ; its height 
is 15 feet 2 inches, its length 36 feet, and its breadth 14 feet It 
has one large arched window in the east wall, where once stood 
an altar dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Looking towards the win- 
dow, on the right hand, is a pedestal for a statue, with an escut- 
cheon having the arms of Caithness, Douglas, and St Clair. In a 
direct line, on the opposite side of the window, is a similar pedes- 
tal, with an engrailed cross on a shield, probably intended for a 
statue of Rosslyn, This sacristy or vestry once had, in the south 



ROSLIN. 349 

wall} a low arched door» now shut up, by which a persou might 
have entered it without passing through the chapel above. On 
the same side of the building there is a recess for a chimney; 
Both in the north and the south walls there are several niches, of 
various kinds, which may have been designed for keeping the sa* 
cred vessels employed in the service of the chapel, and the vest* 
ments of the priests* In the south-east corner, there is a piscina 
or foot, with a square niche on the east side of it« The roof of the 
small chapel, like that of the large one, is divided into five com- 
partments. The ribs are beautiful specimens of the ingrailedcrosSi 
while the compartments themselves are plain. 

Nearly a century ago, the chapel received some considerable 
repairs from its proprietor, General St Clair, who caused the lower 
roof to be covered anew with flag stones, the windows to be glazed, 
and the floor to be mended in several places. It is now undergo- 
ing extensive repairs from the liberality of the present Earl of 
Rosslyn. - 

Endowments of the Chapel. — At the time when the chapel was 
erected, it was endowed by its founder with the church lands of 
Pentland, four acres of meadow near that town, with the kips, and 
eight sowmes of grass. In the year 1523, one of his successors 
farther endowed it with some portions of land in the neighbour- 
hood, for dwelling-houses and gardens to the provost and preben- 
daries. These possessions, which were not very ample, passed 
away from it at the Reformation; and on February SS6th )571» 
the provost and prebendaries, by a deed, in which they complain 
that their revenues had long been forcibly withheld from them» 
resigned them absolutely into the hands of the laity. Father 
Hay says, that to this deed there were appended the seal of the 
chapter of this collegiate church, being St Mathew in a church, 
red upon white wax ; and the seal of Sir William Sinclair, the then 
baron of Rosslyn, being a ragged or engrailed cross, red upon 
white wax.* 

Rosdyn Castle. — Rosslyn Castle is situated about 200 yards 
below the chapel, on a rocky eminence, which is almost enclosed 
in one of the folds of the Esk, which here assumes a beautiful ser- 
pentine form. Little now remains of this ancient and venerable 
stronghold, but a majestic pile of ruins : though the triple tier of 
vaults on the left, and the massive walls, as well as the enormous 
fragments which are scattered about, cannot fail to impress the 

* Extracts from the Records of the Presbytery of Dalkeith, curious and interest- 
ing, as connected with Rosslyn Chapel and iu proprietor, for the timebein|, are de- 
posited along with the MS. of this article. 



330 EDINBURQHSHIRK. 

mind with some idea of its original strength and grandeur. It is 
impossible for us to ascertain when it was built, though it is pro- 
bable that it was founded towards the end of the eleventh centurv. 
We do not find any mention made of it in history till the reign of 
James IL, when we read of Sir William Hamilton being confined 
therein in 1455, for engaging in the rebellion which Earl Dou- 
glas had raised against that monarch. In 1544, this castle, as 
well as many others in the Lothians, was demolished by the En- 
glish army, dispatched by Henry VI IL, upon the rough wooing of 
Mary, the infant Queen of Scots* In 1650, it was again battered 
down by a division of the army of Oliver Cromwell, under the 
command of General Monk. And on the night of the 1 1th of 
December 1688, it was attacked and plundered by a lawless mob, 
composed partly of the tenants of the barony and partly of miscre- 
ants from Edinburgh : and, on the early part of the same night, 
some of the most splendid and beautiful ornaments of the chapel 
were defaced by the same ruffians. 

In addition to the above misfortunes. Father Hay, in his manu- 
script, mentions another which we shall narrate at length in his 
words. '^ About this time, viz. 1447, Edward Sinclair of Dry- 
den, coming with four gray hounds and some ratchets, to hunt 
with the prince, met a great company of rats, and, among the rest, 
one old blind lyard one with a straw in his mouth, led by the rest, 
whereat he greatly marvelled, not thinking what was to follow ; 
but within four days afler, viz. the feast of St Leonard, the prin- 
cess, who took great delight in little dogs, caused one of the gen- 
tlewomen to go under the bed with a lighted candle, to bring forth 
one of them that had young whelps, which she doing, and not being 
very attentive, set fire on the bed, whereat the fire rose and burnt the 
bed, and then passed to the ceiling of the great chamber in which 
the princess was, whereat she and all that were in the dungeon 
wer compelled to fly.'' 

^ The prince's chaplain seeing this, and remembering of all 
his mastoids writings, passed to the head of the dungeon where 
they were, and threw out four great trunks where they were. 
The news of this fire coming to the prince's ears through the 
lamentable cries of the ladies and gentlewomen ; and the sight 
thereof coming to his view in the place where he stood, viz. upon 
the college hill, he was sorrow for nothing but the loss of his char- 
ters and other writings ; but when the chaplain, who had saved 
himself by coming down the bell rope tied to a beam, declared 
how his charters and writs were all saved, he became cheerful, and 



HOSLIN. ^51 

went to re*coinfort his princess aud the ladies, desiring them to 
put away all sorrow ; and rewarded his chaplain very richly. Yet 
all this stayed him not from building of the college, with his 
liberality to the poor, but was rather more liberal to them than 
before, applying the safety of his charters and writs to God's par* 
ticular providence." 

Entrance to the Castle, — TJie promontory on which the castle 
stands is insulated by a deep natural ravine on the land side, over 
which there is a narrow bridge, to be approached from the east* 
The gate of entrance was on the west end of this bridge, and was 
powerfully defended : and, immediately behind this kind t)f out- 
work, was an immense building of several stories, forming one side 
of the square of the castle. On the right or north side of the 
square was a massive wall, the greater part of which is still stand* 
ing ; and at the south end of this wall was a tower of vast size. In 
the court was a well for supplying the inmates with water. Mr 
Hay in his manuscript has given several views of the castle in its 
entire state, and he is said to have made these with his pen. 

Extent of the Castle. — From east to west the castle is about 200 
feet in length ; it is nearly 90 feet in breadth, and the walls are 
about 9 feet thick. On the ruins of this ancient building, and 
over the vaults, is a comparatively modern house, with the letters 
S. W. S., (Sir William Sinclair,) and the date 1622, over the 
door. The ceiling of the dining room is enriched with antique 
pannels and designs, variously ornamented and intermixed with 
the armorial bearings of the St Clair family. 

Ancient Establishment — According to Father Hay, the esta- 
blishment maintained by Prince William, the founder of the cha- 
pel, and his Princess, Elizabeth Douglas, was most magnificent* 
He was served at his table, it is said, in vessels of gold and silver, 
by Lord Dirleton, as Master of his Household ; by Lord Berth- 
wick, as his Cup-bearer; and by Lord Fleming, as his Carver; 
each of whom had a deputy of equal rank to officiate in his ab-* 
sence. His lady was served by seventy-five gentlewomen, of whom 
fifty-three were the daughters of noblemen, and all of them were 
attired in silk and velvet, and adorned with chains of gold and 
other jewels. When travelling from Rosslyn to the family man- 
sion in Edinburgh, which was at the foot of Blackfriar's Wynd, 
she was attended by two hundred gentlemen on horseback, and, 
if after nightfall, by other eighty persons bearing torches. 

The Maiden Castle. — This castle was situated between two and 



3^2 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

three hundred yards to the south of the Hewan, within another 
fold of the Esk, where this romantic river seems to linger in a re- 
gion of surpassing sweetness and loveliness. Nothing now remains 
of this fortress but parts of the foundation, which are still visible at 
some points. And even tradition is unable to communicate any 
notices of this stronghold, which, as its name indicates, was never 
taken by an enemy. Though the oldest inhabitants have been 
questioned on this subject, they are found to be acquainted with 
nothing more than the name of the castle, whose origin and his- 
tory have been long lost in the mists of antiquity. 

Ston^ Coffin. — In August 1754, a farmer ploughing his field near 
the village of Roslin turned up the corner of a stone coflSn, about 
nine feet long, which contained the bones of a human body. The 
bones were much decayed, except the skull and teeth, which were 
sound and large. This must have been the grave of some British 
warrior, ratherthan the coffin of one of the chiefs who fell in the 
battles of Roslin, in the year 1002. 

Hezekiah Merricks, Esq., Eskhill, has in his possession three 
silver coins, apparently of very considerable antiquity. Each of 
them is about the size of a common sixpence, and is supposed to 
belong to the reign of Edward L of England. They were found 
on the public road at Harper^s Hall Brae. 

A silver buckle, of very rude workmanship, and also a brooch, 
with engraving, and something like green enamel on it, were found 
at the above-nientioned place. These were in the possession of 
John Merricks, Esq. Eskhill. 

III. — Population. 
About the time when the chapel was building, Roslin was the 

most populous town in the Lothians, excepting Edinburgh and 
Haddington. It was erected into a burgh of barony by James II. 
in 1456, with the privilege of holding a weekly market, and a 
yearly fair; and the pedestal of the ancient market cross is still 
to be seen at the centre of the village.* 

Roslin is now a small village. The following has been its po- 
pulation for the last eleven years : — 

1829, 68 fiimiIie8.259soub. 
1890, 74 ... 287 ... 
1831, 81 ... 3^20 ... 
lOtfib, oo ... 949 •.• 

1833, 82 ... 343 ... 

* See MS. for an accurate copy of the original charter, as it is to be found in 
Father Hay*8 Manuscript. 



R08LIN. 353 

1834, 84 finnilies— d66«oul4. 

1835, 82 ... 370 ... 
1836,78 . . 356 ... 

1837, 86 ... 387 ... 

1838, 88 ... 413 ... 

1839, 90 ... 401 ... 

The increase of the population of Roslin village is owing to the 
extension of the works of a gunpowder manufactory and of a 
bleachfield, both of which are in the immediate neighbourhood. 

The population of Roslin parish, quoad sacra^ is as follows; — 



iaa5, 326 famUies 


-.1611 souk. 


1836, 327 ... 


1646 ... 


1837, 341 


1731 ... 


1838, 346 ... 


1733 ... 


1839, a'>4 ... 


1744 ... 



The majority of the population reside in small villages. Not 
one of these is worthy of the name of a town. 

In 1838^ the number of males in the parish was 8429 and the 
number of females 891 ; total, 1733. In 1839, the number of 
males was 845, and the number of females 899 ; total, 1744. 

Resident Proprietors. — The only resident proprietors of land in 
the parish are, George Mercer, Esq. of Dryden, and Robert 
Brown, Esq. of Firth. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture.^^ K% both proprietors and land cultivators refused 
to communicate the facts which were necessary to be known, in 
order to compile the statistics under this head, only a few general 
statements can be made. 

By far the largest proportion of the parish is in a state of culti- 
vation ; a very considerable number of acres are under wood ; and 
only a small number remain constantly waste. There is no undi- 
vided common. 

Husbandry and improvement are here assuming a high characi- 
ter. Draining is carried on to a great extent ; apd the face of 
nature is changing to the better. 

Manufactures. — The largest manufactory of gunpowder in Scot- 
land is in this parish. It belongs to Messrs Hay and Merrieks, and 
has been established for thirty-six years. It gives employment to 
about 60 men, 30 of whom are coopers. The wages of the latter, 
who work by the piece, vary from 18s. to L.1, 15s. per week. 
The arrangements made for conducting the work are admirable, 
and consequently very few accidents occur. It is admitted on all 
hands that the article produced is excellent in quality. 

There is a manufactory of writing and prbting paper in this 

EDINBURGH. Z 



354 EDINBURGHSHIRE* 

parish. It belongs to Messrs Cadell, and gives employment to a 
considerable number of persons, both maJe and female. One 
machine is in operation day and night ; and various kinds of excel- 
lent paper made. 

Bkad^fieUL — The bleachBeld here is much celebrated, and 
most extensively employed. A considerable number, both of 
males and females, derive their support from it. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Marhet'Towns. — Edinburgh and Dalkeith are the two market- 
towns resorted to, — the former being seven miles, and the latter 
six miles distant. 

Villages. — The two principal villages in the parish are Roslin 
and Rosewell. 

Means of Communication. — There is a full post*o£Bce establish* 
ed here, with two arrivals and one departure. There are five miles 
of turnpike roads in the parish. The great Dumfries road goes 
through it nearly a mile; and, along this road, the following 
coaches travel, viz. the Dumfries mail-coach, the Peebles coach, 
and one from the Wellington Inn to and from Edinbui^h. 

There is a great want of bridges in the parish. The precipi- 
tous banks of the Esk prevent communication, in a great measure, 
between the inhabitants on the opposite sides of the river. 

Ecclesiastical ^Stofe.— The parish church is situated near the one 
end of the parish, being one mile from the east end, and five miles 
from the west end. It was built in 1827, and is in a good state 
of repair. It contains 444 sittings in the lower area, and is con- 
structed to admit of galleries containing 200 or 250 sittings, — if 
so many should be required. Free sittings are allowed to the poor. 

The manse was built in 1832 at the expense of the congrega- 
tion. The church, manse, and school-house cost L.1600, and 
the only remaining debt is L.100 on the church,-— the other build<* 
ings being quite free. The stipend of the minister is L.150. 

There is one Dissenting meeting-house in the parish at Bridg- 
end. It belongs to the United Secession. There are two colle- 
giate ministers, both paid by the seat«rents and the collection 
made at the door. 

About two-thirds of the population belong to the Established 
Church, and one-third to the Dissenters. 

The communion roll contains upwards of 300 names. 

There is an association in the parish for supporting the various 
schemes of the General Assembly, and also for contributing to 



ROSLIN. 355 

the Bible Society and the Moravian missions. The amount con- 
tributed, however, is small, owing to this circumstance, that al- 
most all the public institutions in the parish are supported by vo- 
luntary contributions. And, as the demands among the parishioners 
are great and urgent, little can be given to other objects. 

Education. — There are four schools in the parish, and only one 
of them is provided with a small permanent salary. Two of them 
belong to the minister, a third is placed under his superintendence, 
and a fourth belongs to R. B. Wardlaw Ramsay, Esq. of White^ 
hill. There are also three Sabbath schools, which, together with 
the four day schools, belong to the Established Church. From 
the year 1835, down to the present time, more than a sixth part 
of the whole population have been in attendance at the four day 
schools ; and more than a tenth part of the whole population have 
been in attendance at the three Sabbath schools. 

The minister visits the whole parish annually, and takes account 
of the children who are at school, or who ought to be at it. In 
order to encourage the poor to educate their children, he finds the 
following method to work well. When he meets with a poor man 
who finds great difficulty in providing the means of education, he 
makes an agreement with him to send one of his children to school, 
if he will send another, or perhaps two ; and if the party be very 
poor, two are sent to school free of expense to him, as long as he 
pays for one. At present, the minister is educating thirty-two chiU 
dren in this way ; and it may be safely affirmed of the parish in 
general, that there is scarcely to be found in it a child who ought 
to be at school, and who is not at one. 

Library. — A small library connected whh the church, and eon« 
taining 270 volumes, has been in existence since 1828. The num- 
ber of volumes at the commencement was scarcely one-half of what 
it is now. 

Friendly Society. — There is a Friendly society in the parish. It 
contains a considerable number of members. It is constructed on 
sound principles, and is well conducted. Much benefit is obtain- 
ed from it by the community. 

Public^ Houses. — There are 7 houses in the parish where strong 
drinks are sold. Four of these are in Roslin village, or in the im- 
mediate vicinity. Were they reduced in number, the public mo* 
rals could not fail to be greatly improved thereby. 

June 184a 



PARISH OF MID-CALDER. 

PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAK & TWEEDDALB.* 



1. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name^ Boundaries, Sfc. — Calder is a common territorial ap- 
pellation in Scotland, and always denotes some spot adjacent to 
water, or rather to a rivulet This name is of Celtic origin — Cal^ 
Celf or Coilj being descriptive of wooded or wild regions ; and Dur, 
or Dour, signifying water. 

The parish of Mid-Calder lies in the direction of north and 
south; and, by the straigh test footpath or bridle road, from the 
north-east to the south-west extremity of the parish, extends from 
eleven to twelve miles in length. Its average breadth is from two 
and a half to three miles ; but, in one place, it does not extend above 
three or four hundred yards. It is bounded on the north by the 
parish of Uphall ; on the south, by Linton ; on the east, by the 
united parishes of Kirknewton and East- Calder, together with 
those of Currie and a small portion of Kirkliston ; and, on the 
west, by the parishes of West- Calder and Livingstone. By a sin- 
gular coincidence, Listen- Shields, the property of the late Sir 
Robert Listen, which is situated on the south-east extremity of this 
parish, belongs to Kirkliston, although it lies at the distance of 
seven or eight miles from any other part of that parish. The ridge 
of the Cairn hills forms the southern boundary of the parish, and 
may be considered as a (Continuation of the Pentlands westward till 
they reach the parish of West- Calder. There are no elevations 
in this parish which can properly be called mountains. The eastern 
Cairn Hill is the highest point ; and, if Knox's map can be re- 
lied upon, its summit is about 1800 feet above the medium level 
of the sea. This spot commands a most extensive view of the 
Frith and basin of the Forth, with the adjacent scenery towards 
Stirling, the coast of Fife, and the Oehils. At the eastern extre- 

' Drawn up by the late incumbenti the Rev. John Somniers. 



MID-CALDER. 357 

mity of the Cairn Hilt, which forms the southeast boundary of the 
parish, south of Harper- rig, there is a hollow slope or declivity, 
known by the name of the Caldstane Slap^ through which pass, 
lies the drove road most commonly frequented by dealers in sheep 
and cattle between the Scotch and English markets. This road 
is passable also for travellers on horseback during the summer 
months. 

The village of Mid-Calder is delightfully situated on the south 
bank of the Almond, near its junction with Linhouse and Muries* 
ton Waters. On the east, is the extensive and romantic wood of 
Calder ; and, on the west, is Calder House, which stands on an 
elevated lawn, surrounded by ornamental walks, and sheltered by 
lofty trees and numerous plantations* The town is twelve miles 
west of Edinburgh, twenty from Lanark, and thirty-two from Glas- 
gow. Calder was formerly the name of a district in the western 
part of the cbunty of Edinburgh, or Mid- Lothian, comprehending 
the three parishes of Calder Comitisor Mid- Calder, Calder Clere 
or East- Calder, and that portion which now constitutes the parish 
of West- Calder. The £rst of these obtained its name from hav* 
ing been in possession of the Earls of Fife, so early as the twelfth 
century ; and the second, Calder Clere or East Calder, ff om one 
Randulph de Clere, who held a grant of the manor from Malcolm 
IV. The parish of Calder Clere was united to that of Kirknew- 
ton in 1750, and was, at same time, detached from the presbytery 
of Linlithgow, and united to the presbytery of Edinburgh. This 
extensive parish of Calder Comitis, in 1645, was again divided into 
those of Mid and West* Calder, as appears from our presbytery re- 
cords, in which it is stated that, on the 1 2th of June of that year^ 
Patrick Shields was translated from the parish of Livingstone to 
West- Calder. This threefold division of the original parish suffix 
ciently accounts for the scantiness of the teind, and, consequently, 
for the limited portion of stipend allotted to each of these be* 
nefices* 

Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere varies con- 
siderably between the banks of the streams clothed with wood in 
the lower districts of the parish, and the higher ground upon the 
cold boggy land and barren heath. In low, sheltered situations, 
the thermometer generally ranges between 35 and 60 ; and the 
barometer from 28^ to 30}. 

Hydrography. — This parish is intersected by three considerable 
rivulets, which run from west toeast — the Almond^ the Murieston, 



858 BDINBUBGHSHIRE. 

and the Linhouse waters. Od entering this parish on the west, 
these streams are distant from each other about a mile and a-hali; 
but they all meet together at the northern extremity of the village^ 
by the two last mingling their waters with the Almond. In pas- 
sing through the parish, these streams are increased, in their pro- 
gress, by many small tributaries, flowing from innumerable springs 
in the higher grounds. Besides the three waters above-mentioned, 
there is another, which takes its rise in the upper and southern 
district of the parish, called the Wester Burn, which, after pro- 
ceeding eastward, assumes the name of Leith-Head Water, or 
Water-of-Leith, intersecting the parish in the same direction from 
west to east. 

The springs in this parish are very numerous, and many of them 
consist of pure, soft, and excellent water ; but there are others in 
which the water is so much impregnated with iron, that its quality 
may be easily distinguished, both by the taste and smell. On be- 
ing exposed, however, for a few minutes to the air, these pecu- 
liarities can scarcely be perceived. It then becomes agreeable to 
the taste, and fit for all culinary purposes. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — This parish is intersected by three 
great public roads ; the northern line running between Edinburgh 
and Glasgow ; the middle line between Edinburgh and Ayr ; and 
the southern line between Edinburgh and Lanark by Carnwath ; 
the two former passing through the village of Mid-Calder. From 
the Almond northward to the parish of Uphall, the ground has a 
southern exposure ; but from the river to the summit of the Cairn 
hills, which form the boundary between this and the parish of Lin- 
ton, the aspect of the ground is to the north. The land upon the 
banks of this river and all its tributary streams, as may be supposed, 
is, in general, the most fertile, and some of it consists of a rich, dry, 
and productive loam ; but, on retiring from the banks to a more 
elevated situation, the ground generally becomes less fertile, and 
at length terminates in a thin, barren clay, upon a hard, cold, and 
dark-blue till or shale. But even this naturally sterile soil has 
been rendered productive in some places, by thorough draining, 
and the liberal application of lime and other kinds of manure. It 
may be observed^ that in the upper district of the parish there is 
a large portion of Datarally unproductive ,land, which, by proper 
draining, spade-culture, hoeing, and other modern improvements, 
might be sufficient to support a numerous population. 

Abundance of excellent rock of various kinds, such as freestone. 



MID-CALDER. 359 

(sandstone,) wliinstone, and limestone, has been discovered in differ- 
ent places throughout the parish. Quanies of all these have, at one 
time or other, been in actual operation. Ode for road-metal is now 
open on the estate of Howden, the property of Mrs White. This, 
liowever, is intended only for private use. Another, on the estate 
of Linhouse, was in operation not many years ago ; and one on the 
estate of Pumpherston, belonging to the Earl of Buchan, both of 
which are now used for the public roads* A quarry of excellent 
limestone has long been, and still continues open, for the supply 
of the neigbouring tenantry, on Mr Hog's estate of Easter Muri- 
eston. This limestone has never been found in a regular stratum, 
but in long beds or nests, or of a round globular form, at short 
distances from one another. It admits of a beautiful polish, and 
has been used as marble, both in the country and in Edinburgh. 
A considerable stratum of excellent limestone, some years ago, 
was also opened up in the lands of Colzium, by pits, now the pro- 
perty of the Rev. Dr Laird of Portmoak. A kiln of it was burnt 
and examined by Dr Fyfe, and was found to be of the best qua- 
lity ; but, being too distant from coal, it afforded no prospect of 
covering the expenses necessary to render it useful to the com- 
munity. A freestone quarry has long been in operation in Cat- 
der-wood. The stone is fit for all kinds of architecture, being hard 
and durable, and capable of being wrought to an unlimited extent. 
Within these few years, a quarry of unexhaustible freestone was 
opened at the bottom of the .ridge of the Cairn Hills. In this 
quarry, blocks of any magnitude may be raised at a moderate ex- 
pense ; and the buildings which have been already erected of this 
stone, are sufficient to prove that, from its durable nature and 
beauty, it is eminently fitted for all the purposes of the most de- 
licate architecture. The bottom of the Cairns Hill seems to be 
wholly composed of this stone ; and the extent and thickness of it 
must be immense* The dip of the strata of all these rocks is, in 
general, towards the south. In several places on the banks of the 
Murieston .Water, and particularly on the property of John Keir, 
Esq., there is a kind of rotten rock, intermixed with a species of 
crystal, in the cavities of which have been found small portions of 
bitumen ; but the stone itself is of little value> because^ after 
being exposed for a year or two to the action of the air and 
frost, it crumbles into dust. No anim<il remains have hitherto 
been discovered in any of these rocks; but several petrifactions of 
the pine tribe liave been found iu the strata, and small portions 



360 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

also of crystatlized quartz. Many excellent specimens of vain'- 
able ironstone are almost everywhere to be found in the beds 
of the rivers; but the quantity is not sufficient to compensate 
the expense of carriage and the labour of digging them out of the 
banks. 

A 6ne specimen of rich lead ore was lately dug up, by Mr 
Young of Harburn, when sinking for water, in one of his farms 
in this parish. It was found about sixteen feet below the surface. 
But no attempt has hitherto been made to follow up this discovery, 
although, since that period, lead ore has been dug up in three 
other parts of the Harburn estate. A small seam of coal was also 
found, some years aga, in the upper district of the parish, between 
Camilty and Crosswoodburn ; and^ since that time, several others 
have been discovered, one of them between three and four feet 
thick, very near the surface ; and this estate abounds also in lime- 
stone and manganese, with many promising appearances of iron. 
The covering of the rocks is of various kinds. If the rotten rock or 
whinstone be near the surface, the soil is dry and fertile ; but when 
deep, it is generally cold and wet. It cannot be said that any of 
these fields of rock are covered with alluvial deposits, or with 
transported soil, unless what has been for ages accumulated along 
the bottom of the Cairn Hills can be considered of this descrip- 
tion. In many spots, the soil may be considered as rich ; but, 
being exposed to so much moisture, and in so elevated a si- 
tuation, the process of vegetation must necessarily be slow ; and 
the grasses being of a diminutive growth, although of excellent 
quality, yield a more scanty supply. 

Z^otony.— -The plants most peculiarly attached to the best 
soils are the poas, meadow fescue, Timothy grass, cocks foot, 
Daetylus glomerata^ meadow soft grass, or Yorkshire white, 
Holcvs lanatus. On moist clay and mossy soils is to be found 
that very valuable grass brought into notice by Dr Richard- 
son of Ireland, and which has been advantageously cultivated 
by Mr Young of Harburn and others, in the parish of Mid-Cal- 
der, to great extent, and at little expense, — the creeping bent 
grass, or fiorin, Jyrostis stolonifera. It grows luxuriantly in a wet 
or spongy soil, unsuitable for other grasses ; and its growth is most 
vigorous in moist, warm, and sheltered spots. In favourable sea- 
sons, when properly cultivated, it yields from four to five hundred 
stones per acre of the most nourishing food for cattle and horses ; 
and it is not liable to be injured by the wetness of the season like 



MID-C ALDER. 361 

common fye^grass hay. The white clover, Jrifbliwn repens^ is 
another of the natural grasses^ which is peculiarly attached to the 
soils of this district, and is reckoned one of the most valuable pas- 
ture grasses which requires no cultivation. In the inferior, stiff 
soils, which are unfriendly to healthy vegetation, the dock and 
the common rush universally maintain their hold ; but, as soon as 
the ground is properly drained, and comes under cultivation, they 
are no longer to be seen. 

The botany of this parish furnishes little that is peculiarly 
interesting. Of the rarer plants found here, the following may 
serve as an example; and the statement having been furnish* 
ed by Robert Maughan, Esq. of Edinburgh, who is well known as 
an eminent botanist, may be relied upon as correct. 

List of plants found in Culderwood. 

Hypericum pulchrum Ranunculus auricomui Habenaris bifblia 

Geranium syWaticum Equiaetum sylyatioum Paris quadrifolia 

Asperula odorata Lysimacbia Nemorum Hyacinthus non-scriptus 

Cnicus heterophyllofl Asplenium Filix-^fcemina Fl. Alb. 

Myosotis sylvatica Valeriana officinalis Hypericum birsutum 

Milium etfusum Aspidium spinulosum • — humiFusum 

Rubus saxatiiis Viburnum Opulua Allium ursinum 

Pyrola minor Viola palustris Campanula latifolia 

Melampyrum syWaticum Prunus Cerasus Trollius Europsus 

Luzula sylvatica Trifolium filiibnnc LisCera Nidus- Avis 

Hubu9 ccsius Lotus major Rubus Chamaemorus 

• 

The plantations here consist chiefly of the common fir, larch, 
spruce, the oak, the beech, the ash, and the elm. Almost all 
those varieties seem adapted to the soil and climate, and in gene- 
ral thrive well. Near Calder House there are many fine limes 
and beeches ; but the tree that seems to have attained to the larg- 
est size is a plane, which, from age, is now reduced to a mere 
trunk. In the former Statistical Account of this parish, it is stat* 
ed that the trunk of this tree was 14 feet high, its circumference 
at the thickest part, 18 feet, and that the branches extended at 
least 80 feet on either side. On this tree are two large protube- 
rances where it is said ihejuffs were formerly fixed. The age of 
this plane cannot be exactly ascertained ; but it is particularly 
mentioned in our session records, December 1617, and as being 
then of a very considerable size. 

The most extensive tract of woodland in this district, is Caldefw 
wood, the property of Lord Torphichen. It lies south-east of 
Calder House, and is very beautifully situated between the Mu- 
rieston and Linhouse Waters, the former of which is sometimes 



362 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

called the Fore-wood Water, and tfae latter the Back-wood 
Water. It appears to have been originally a copsewood, the out* 
skirts of which have been filled up with forest and other trees. It 
extends up the banks of the Linhouse Water above a mile and a 
half. 

The trees to which the richest soils appear to be most conge- 
nial are, the plane-tree, Flatanusj the lime-tree, the ash, the beech, 
and all the different species of poplars and willows. All these 
thrive best in a humid loam. There are many oaks also, but none 
of which have as yet arrived at any great age or perfection. 

II. — Civil History. 
Familt/ of Tofphichen. — The first authentic account we have of 

this ancient family, is in the reign of David IL, 1336, when Sir 
James Sandilands obtained a grant from that monarch of lands in 
the county of Peebles, for his lands of Craiglockard and Steny- 
path, in the county of Edinburgh. He also possessed the lands 
and barony of Wiston, in Lanarkshire; and, in 1346, he obtained 
a confirmation of the lands of Sandilands and Reidmyre, in Dou- 
glasdale, from William, Lord Douglas. Having greatly distin- 
guished himself by his many heroic actions and eminent services, 
under that illustrious commander, in the war against the English, 
he became so great a favourite that he obtained the hand of his 
sister, Elionora, Countess of Carrick, in marriage. She was only 
daughter of Archibald Douglas, of Douglas, and relict of Alex- 
ander Bruce, Earl of Carrick ; and with her he received the ba- 
rony of West-Calder, in ** liberum marttaffium^" to be held by 
them and their heirs, in like manner as Earl William held the said 
barony from Duncan, Earl of Fife. In this manner arose the con- 
nection of the House of Sandilands with that of Douglas ; and, in 
consequence of this alliance, the Sandilands family came eventu- 
ally, as heirs-at-law, to quarter the Douglas's arms with their 
own. 

James Sandilands, the fruit of this alliance, being also a person 
of great merit, received the honour of knighthood from Robert IL, 
who esteemed him so highly, that he gave him his own lawful 
daughter, the Lady Jane, together with a grant of the baronies of 
Dalzell, Modirvale, and the lands of Erthbisset, Auchtirbanok, 
and Slamanonmoor, with other pertinents, which the family gra- 
dually lost ; but from their predilection to Calder, and this being 
their principal residence, they are chiefly known under that desig- 
nation. These facts are sufliciently proved by authentic evidence 



MID-CALDER. 363 

ID the Torphicben charter-chest, which further demonstrates the 
affluence and consideration of this family in ancient times. Among 
other documents in the possession of the family, there is one of 
1384, whereby King Robert IL, who was then at Calder House, 
attended by his court, remits ^^ dilecto filio nostro Jacobo de San- 
dylandis militi, et Johanne spons» suae, filise nostrse karrissimae, 
and to their lawful heirs, in perpetuum, the feudal casualty pro 
Castriwarda Baroniae de Caldoure," and by another original do- 
cument, dated 7th February 1404, James Sandilands, the ances- 
tor of this family, is styled the king's nephew, his mother, the 
princess Johanna, being the sister of Robert III. The former Sir 
James, in right of his mother, Elionora, only sister of William, 6rst 
Earl of Douglas, became heir general of the Douglasses. Be- 
tween her and her first husband, the Earl of Carrick, there was 
no surviving issue, so that at the death of the children of the above 
Earl William without issue, his immediate line became extinct; 
and, as James Sandilands, by his wife, Elionora, the only sister of 
Earl William, had a son James^ this son became heir-at*]aw, and 
heir of all the family estates destined to heirs general. The noble 
family of Torphicben thus became heirs-general, as they still are, 
of this distinguished House of Douglas, whose arms they have in- 
variably borne in memory of their descent. The arms of Sandi- 
lands, together with the chief insignia of Douglas, are repeatedly 
sculptured, in the fifteenth century, upon the ancient parts of the 
church of Calder, and, in one instance, with angels for supporters, 
which likewise marks their connection withthe Knights of St John 
of Jerusalem, as may be seen firom inspection of the Great Seal 
of the Order of the Temple of Jerusalem, as sculptured in 719, 
on which are angels for supporters. From another original docu- 
ment it appears, that Isabel, Countess of Mar, who was heir- at- 
law of the House of Douglas, had obtained possession of the ba- 
rony of Cavers, with some other lands, but that James Sandilands, 
by a deed of King Robert III., endeavoured to prevent her from 
alienating the said barony, which was a very important and valu- 
able portion of the Douglas inheritance ; yet, notwithstanding this 
deed, in which the king styles him " dilecto nepoii meoy' and in 
which the king makes a solemn promise not to permit any part of 
this land to be alienated, it was rendered ineffectual by the supe- 
rior power and influence of the Douglases. Being anxious to se- 
cure the great interests thus vested in the Laird of Calder, in re- 



d64 BDlNBURt}H&HIRE« 

spect of the DougIas''s succession, tbey prevailed on Sir Jamed 
Sandilands to make renunciation of his birth-right, which came to 
be vested in George Douglas, Earl of Angus, who, accopding to 
Mr Riddell, a most accurate antiquarian, was the illegitimate son 
of Margaret, Countess of Marr and Angus. This formal renun- 
ciation was sanctioned by the interposition of the King, on the 9th 
November 1398; and a charter of confirmation was passed to that 
efiFect.* 

But what elevated this noble family, and raised them to the 
peerage, was the acquisition of the great estates of the Knights 
Hospitallers of St John of Jerusalem by a younger son, to whom 
they succeeded as his heirs-at-law, he having left no issue to the 
principal stem. To perceive the steps by which they rose to this 
eminence, it will be necessary to take a short survey of the two 
distinguished orders of religious knighthood. Sir James Sandi- 
lands, one of the ancestors of this noble family, was the last Grand 
Master of the Knights Hospitallers, or Knights of St John of 
Jerusalem, afterwards of Rhodes and of Malta. They were also 
called Friars Hospitallers, or simply Hospitallers. Be&ides these, 
there was another order of knighthood, tlie Knights Templars, or 
Knights of the Holy Sepulchre. 

From MSS. in the Torphichen charter-chest, it appears that 
the order of the Knights Hospitallers was instituted in 1099. 
Their dress was a black mantle, with a white cross on the left 
breast. The order of the Templars was instituted about 1119^ 
This order, to distinguish them from the other, adopted a white 
mantle as their dress, as an emblem of innocence, with a red cross 
on the breast, as a symbol of willing martyrdom. From being 
milites togati, both orders thus became milites armati, and vowed 
to defend with their swords that religion which they had formerly 
guarded by their prayers. At first they became glorious in arms, 
and then rich in revenues. The Templars, according to the book 
of Cupar, and also the annals of Scotland, were seated in this 
country as early as the time of David L, 1153, when they formed 
a settlement on the South Esk, in Mid- Lothian; but the chief 
residence of the Hospitallers was at Torphichen, in Linlith- 
gowshire, and the time of their first settlement is uncertain. 
Although at first the Templars consisted only of nine indivi- 
duals, they afterwards increased, both in wealth and in num- 

* See Riddell's remarks on the Scotch Peerage Law, p. 161, 209; also his Tracts* 
Legal and Hutorical, p. 223. 



MID-CALDER. 335 

bers. As individuals they retained their vow of poverty ; but 
their vow was but a cozenage of the world. They had rich pa- 
laces and revenues, and nineteen thousand manors in Christen- 
dom, belonging to their order. Vice, the almost invariable attend- 
ant upon luxury, may have corrupted them to a certain extent; 
but it is more than probable that the avarice of the sovereign Pon- 
tifiF, and of bis coadjutor, Philip the Fair of France, who hated 
the Templars, was the true cause of their being suppressed. On 
5th October 1307, the Knights Templars thnmghout the whole 
of Europe were seized and imprisoned, and, after being tried for 
capital crimes, were condemned, and many of them put to death. 
All their wealth and vast domains were confiscated, and bestowed 
on the sovereigns in whose dominions they lay, or were given to their 
rivals, the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, afterwards of Malta, 
and to such persons as were in favour with the sovereign Pontiff. 
In Germatiy, England, and Scotland alone they were treated 
with humanity. Thus fell this once powerful and illustrious order 
of the Knights Templars, who, in virtue of their own sovereignty, 
when in their f^ill vigour, were subject to no secular power, were 
freed from all taxes, could witness in their own cause, and whose 
very houses possessed the right of sanctuary. In Scotland theic 
estates and revenues were transferred to the Knights Hospitallers. 
In this way Sir James Sandilands, second son of Sir James San- 
dilands of Calder, having succeeded Sir Walter Lindsay as pre- 
ceptor of the order of St John of Jerusalem, in Scotland, in 1538^ 
obtained possession of the vast wealth and revenues belonging to 
that order. But, although the lands of the Templars were given 
to their rivals the Hospitallers, they still retained the name of the 
terrcB templaricB — the Temple-lands ; and in time this name 
was given also to the estates of' the Hospitallers. An abstract 
of the charters, and other papers recorded in the Chartulary of 
Torphichen, from 158] to 1596, extending to upwards of !\0 
quarto pages, was printed at Edinburgh, 18^0, by its possessor, the 
late Mr Robert Hill, W. S., for private circulation. Sir Walter 
Lindsay kept a regular rental of all the lands, patronages, tithes, 
feu-duties, &c, belonging to this preceptory; and the last minute 
of his hand-writing, subjoined to said rental, bears date 26th 
August 1539; and annexed is a note, in the hand-writing of his 
immediate successor. Sir James Sandilands, viz. — " This rental 
is Schir Valter Lyndsea'shande-wryt, and syo his decese vas never 
alterit, nor lang time afor." Signed, James Sandilands of Tor- 
phichen. 



366 EDINBURGHSHrRE. 

It appears that this Sir James had resided for several years at 
Malta ; and, being esteemed as a young man of excellent talent 
and good education by Sir Walter Lindsay, Lord St John, be was 
elected by the Grand Prior and his Chapter to be one of the 
knights of that ancient military order, and was thus appointed 
successor to Sir Walter, at whose death he was invested with the 
title, power, and jurisdiction of Lord St John of Jerusalem in 
Scotland, and in all the rights and revenues belonging to that 
order. Independent of what the Hospitallers obtained from the 
estates of the Templars, it appears, from the register of the Great 
Seal, Book 12, No. 51, that James IV. conferred on them a va* 
riety of other grants and privileges, which bad been bestowed upon 
them by former kings. In the above charter the hospital of Je* 
riisalem, from which the name is derived, is called Torfichin; and 
the head of the order is styled Preceptor of Torfichin. 

Having, at the time of the Reformation, in 1560, renounced 
Popery, and abjured the tenets of his order as Master of the Hos* 
pitallersin Scotland, Sir James Sandilands embraced the Protest- 
ant religion, and was among the first to receive the sacrament of 
the Lord's Supper from the hands of John Knox, in the great 
hall of Calder House, according to the Protestant form. As a 
necessary consequence of the Reformation, the ecclesiastical rights 
of the Hospitallers were suppressed ; but Sir James having re- 
signed the lordship of St John into the hands of Queen Mary, her 
Highness was graciously pleased, in consideration of his great 
merit and services, to grant to him and his heirs, on payment of 
10,000 crowns of the sun,* and 500 merks feu-duty yearly, the 
whole possessions which had belonged to the order, together with 
the accompanying dignity of a Lord of Parliament. He thus pur- 
chased the estates of both orders; and a charter was granted 
thereto, in which he is specially designated Lord St John, but 
which title he subsequently exchanged for that of Lord Torphi- 
chen. These lands were afterwards erected into the temporal 
lordship of Torphichen, by a charter under the Great Seal, 24th 

* At the time. of the Reformation, 20 crowns of the sun were equal to L.26, 8s. 
Soots. This appears from the treasurer's accounts of the town of Edinburgh finr 
1559-60, when the following entry occurs :— 20th September, ane precept to pay to 
Robert Watson 20 crowns of the soune, to be deliyerit to him, to Jhone Wiliochis, 
26tb. Ids. 4d. The writer has to thank the Rev. Or Lee for this extract and expla- 
nation ; and he further states, that a pound ScoU was, at that time, nominally about 
one-fourth of the yalue of a pound Sterling ; but, in Scotland, a pound Scots would 
purchase as large a quantity of the necessaries of life as a pound Sterling would do 
in England. 



MID-CALDER. 867 

January 1563. The original charter in his person carries the ba- 
ronies of Torpbichen, Listen, Ballintrodo, Thankerton, Denny, 
Maryculter, &c., with all their superiorities, pre-eminences, dig- 
nities, and offices, possessed *^ tanquam preceptores de Torphi- 
chen/' by this charter, the family of Sandilands became heredi- 
tary Peers of Parliament ; but, as the ancient honour was never 
personal, but had been attached to the JUf by immemorial usage, 
like the earldom of Arundel in England, which is vested in 
the inheritance of the Castle and Lordship of Arundel ; so the 
title of Torphichen thus became a territorial honour, declared, by 
an act of Charles L, to subsist in the mean portion of the mes- 
suage of the Lordship and Barony of Torphichen. The Barony, 
in this manner, carries the Peerage along with it \ and the re- 
mainder of this property has therefore still been retained by this 
noble family. According to Mr Riddell, the author already re- 
ferred to, from whose researches several of these facts respecting 
this family have been selected, this barony, by the charter of 1563, 
is destined to heirs and assigns ; and, in the event of that succes- 
sion opening to a female, that female would be Baroness of Tor- 
phichen. From Spottiswood's *^ Religious Houses," under the 
article Torphichen, it appears that the Provincial Grand Master 
of the order of the Hospitallers in Scotland was a title of high ho- 
nour. With us he bore the dignity of Prior, Master, or Precep- 
tor of Torphichen, or Lord of St John. In England, the Prior, 
or head of the Hospitallers, sat in Parliament as Premier Baron ; 
and the Prior in Scotland, as head of these orders, and in right of 
his Barony of Torphichen, in Linlithgowshire, the original seat 
and patrimony of the knights in Scotland, sat in Parliament alter- 
nately among the territorial barons and dignified clergy. In 1489, 
Lord St John held the place of Premier Baron immediately after 
the earls ; and, in 1526, he is classed among the abbots and friars 
as a dignitary of the church. In the decreet of ranking of the 
nobility 1606, he is placed next to the Lord Boyd. 

John Spottmoood. — Another person of distinguished merit con- 
nected with this parish was Mr John Spottiswood, parson of Cal- 
der-Comitis, or Mid-Calder, and one of the superintendents of 
the church, an office which was not intended to be permanent, but 
designed merely as a temporary expedient to assist in the planting 
of new churches, in consequence of the great scarcity of Presby- 
terian ministers, for the supply of new erections and vacant charges. 
This was a very laborious duty, superintendents being required to 



868 EDINBURGHSHIHE. 

preach thrice every week, and to remain in no place more than 
twenty days, till they had passed through the whole bounds of 
their visitation. Mr Spottiswood is represented as a pious and 
learned nian, and possessed of singular endowments. Being a de- 
scendant of the lairds of Spottiswood in the Merse, he was the 
chief of that ancient family. His father's name was William. He 
was distinguished for his military prowess, and fell at the battle of 
Flodden Field. He himself was educated at the College of Glas- 
gow, and was designed for the Church. During his residence in 
England, he became familiarly acquainted with Archbishop Cran- 
mer, who confirmed him in his resolution of adhering to the study 
of theology. Having returned to his own coimtry, he obtained 
an introduction, through the Earl of Glencairn, to Matthew, Earl 
of Lennox, who afterwards employed him on a mission to Henry 
Vni. of England ; and, on his return to Scotland, being known 
to Sir James Sandilands of Calder, at that time a person of great 
authority, he was prevailed on to accept of the parsonage of Cal- 
der, which, at the beginning of the Reformation, was then void. 
In 1560, he was appointed superintendent of Lothian, Merse, and 
Teviotdale, the duties of which oflBce he discharged during a pe- 
riod of twenty years. In reality he exercised the powers and ful- 
Blled the duties of a bishop merely under a different name ; for it 
was not so much the oflBce as the name to which the first Reform- 
ers felt an aversion ; and in the discharge of this sacred function 
he continued, with the approbation of all good men, till the lime 
of his death, although his parishioners frequently complained in 
vain that they were deprived of their pastor.^ 

Another still more eminent individual connected with this parish 
was John Spottiswood, afterwards Archbishop of St Andrew's, 
the superintendent's son. He was a native of this parish, and was 
born in 1565; and, in 1585, he succeeded his father as minister 
of Calder- Comitis, having been employed as his father's assistant 
when he was only eighteen years of age. In 1601, he attended 
the Duke of Lennox as his chaplain on an embassy to the court 
of Henry IV. of France; and, on the succession of James VL to 
the crown of England, he was called to his service ; and James 
Beaton, Archbishop of Glasgow, dying, his Majesty not only pre« 
ferred him to that see, but, on account of his great prudence and 
distinguished talents in civil matters, he admitted him to be one 
of his Privy Council in Scotland ; and in this capacity he was sent 
to England, and appointed almoner to Queen Anne. At the time 



MID-GALDER. 869 

of his instalment to the office of Archbishop of Glasgow, the re- 
venue of that high office did not exceed L«100 Sterling per an- 
num. In 1605, he was advanced to the metropolitan see of St 
Andrew's, and thus became primate of all Scotland. In using his 
best endeavours to recover some portions of the church's patri- 
mony, he is said to have made nearly fifty journeys from Scotland 
to London. With James I. he was in great favour, and he was the 
person who crowned Charles I., as King of Scotland, in the abbey 
church of Holyrood. In 1635, he was promoted to the office of 
chancellor ; but, in consequence of the civil war, he was soon after 
obliged to retire to England, where,, after a short time of grief and 
trouble, he expired in 1639. Before he expired, he made a con- 
fession of his faith of the apostle's creed ; and, touching the go- 
vernment of the church, he considered Episcopacy the only right 
and apostolic formj-^parity among ministers being a breeder of 
confusion. 

He compiled an excellent history of the Church of Scotland, 
in which there is much curious and interesting matter, from the 
year 1203 to the termination of the reigo of James VI. 

Ministers of the PartjA.-— Our parish records are silent as to the 
person who succeeded the superintendent and his son in this cure ; 
but from the synod and session records it appears that Mr William 
Burnet was minister here in 1691. He was succeeded by Mr 
John Lookup in January 1698 ; who seems to have been a per- 
son of very respectable talent, a;id of no inconsiderable literary 
attainments. Mr James Watson was admitted in 1759; and Dr 
Dobie, afterwards minister of Linlithgow, succeeded him in 1773. 
Being promoted to the cure of the parish of Linlithgow, he was 
succeeded by Dr Wilson in 1792. In 1793, Dr Wilson was 
translated to the parish of Falkirk. In 1795, Dr John Sommers 
was admitted to the office of minister in this parish. He wrote 
a few articles in the *^ Encyclopaedia Edinensis," of which he was 
the proprietor, and of the last three volumes of which he was also 
the editor. 

Heritors. — Lord Torphichen is the principal heritor, and 
the undoubted patron of the church and parish of Mid-Calder. 
The rental of the parish, in Scots money, is as under ; and those 
who pay stipend to the minister are as follows : 

Lord Torphichen, for barony of Calder, . LJM66 5 10 Soott. 

Mrs Hay Primrose, Linbouse, now Burnbrae, 557 2 11 

Earl of Buchan, Pumpherston, , . 406 18 4 

William Bruce, Esq., Aldetstone, 964 

EDINBURGH. A a 



230 18 


6 


152 





141 11 





138 10 


. 


151 8 


7 


102 6 


8 


102 5 


3 


87 10 





81 





86 





29 10 





22 10 





17 6 


6 


12 





8 11 


5 



370 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Alexander Young, Esq., Camilty, 

Heirs of Thomas Hardy, Esq., Charlesfield, 

James M. Hog, Esq., Murieston, 

Robert Downie, Esq., East Cairns and East Colzium, 

John Keir, Esq., WestSeld and Wester Murieston, 

Earl of Rosebery, Alder&tone Mains, 

Archibald Bruce, Esq., Bankton, 

Mrs White, Hovden, 

Rev. Dr Laird, West Cairns and West Colaium, 

Earl of Morton, Harperrig, 

John Graham, Wester Causeyend, 

William, Auld, Esq., Howden Park, 

Miss Horsburgh, New Park, 

John Davie Martin, Esq., part of Charlesfield, 

Robert Bauchop, Esq., Muirhouses, • 

L.5157 10 

The present rental, including the feus, is about L.7000 ; and 
several of the properties have doubled, and some have trebled the 
rental in pounds Sterling, corresponding to the original valuation 
in Scots money. 

Besides these, there are several other small properties, which 
pay a trifling portion of stipend, but are subject to no other pub- 
lic burdens. 

Parochial Registers. — The parochial register, containing the 
dates of baptisms and marriages, with the contributions and dis- 
bursements for the poor, and all the other acts of the kirk-session, 
commences ^7th July 1604; but in several places it is imperfectt 
to 8th November 1691. From that period to the present, the re- 
cord is more distinct, and in a more perfect state of preservation^ 
and contains, for many years, not only the acts and church disci- 
pline exercised in the session, but likewise an account of certifi- 
cates either granted or received by the session from individuals who 
came to reside in the parish. These registers, for the first hun- 
dred years,, are rather in a dilapidated state, and the pages, in se- 
veral places, have been misplaced by the binder ; but, after that 
period, down to the present date, the whole of the books of church 
discipline and deaconry, and the register of births and marriages, 
are in a state of good preservation. It is much to be regretted 
that there is no separate register of deaths and burials. 

Antiquities. — The remains of several mansions which bear the 
mark of great antiquity are still to be seen in this parish, such as Cairns 
Castle, Murieston Castle, and, till lately, the foundation of an anci- 
ent building at Pumpherston. If common report can be relied on, 
some of these have been baronial residences, and seem to have 
been fortified places in troublesome times. Respecting the old 
Castle of Cairns, which consists of a double tower, report would 



MID-CALDER. 871 

induce us to believe that it was founded by Sir William Crichton, 
L ^^ 'b Admiral of Scotland, who had a possession in the pa- 
rish of fjrffmond. This castle is supposed to have been built about 
1440, and Sir William is said to have been connected with the 
noble family of this parish. These reports, however, are destitute 
of any historical proof. 

Murieston Castle, now the property of Mr Keir, having fallen 
into decay, the present proprietor has repaired, or rather rebuilt, 
a small portion of it. The other very ancient building at Pum- 
pherston, the property of the Earl of Buchan, has long been in 
ruins, and has lately been entirely removed. The mansion-house 
of Linhouse likewise bears the marks of great antiquity, having 
towers and battlements, which are still in tolerably good preserva^ 
tion. 

In the south-west district of this parish is a Roman camp or 
post, in a state of tolerable preservation. It stands on a com- 
manding situation, on the summit of an eminence called Castle 
Greg {Castellum Gregis,) near the passage of the ridge which se- 
parates Lothian from Clydesdale^ and to the west of which passes 
the road from this parish to Lanark by Crosswoodhill. In this 
camp, now the property of Alexander Young, Esq. of Harburn, 
several Roman coins have been dug up in good preservation, on 
which the Roman eagle is sufiSciently apparent. This camp is 
not situated in the parish of West Calder, as was supposed 
by the author of the last Statistical Account of that parish, but 
in the farm of Camilty or Cameltree, in this parish. Some years 
ago, three enterprising young farmers dug up the foundation of 
the well belonging to this camp ; and, under the great stone in 
which the flag-staff had stood, they discovered a considerable 
quantity of Roman coins, some of which were purchased by a 
goldsmith in the city of Edinburgh. 

The ancient part of the building of Calder House may also bo 
considered as a work of great antiquity. The walls are impene- 
trably hard, and are about 7 feet in thickness. The great hall, 
which is now the drawing-room, stands upon arches, and, in early 
times, was paved with stone. 

In this large apartment, formerly called the hall of Calder 
House, the great Reformer, John Knox, administered the Holy 
Sacrament of the Supper, according to the Protestant form, for 
the first time in Scotland after the Reformation. This rooni) ao» 
eordingly, is appropriately adorned at the one end by an excellent 



872 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

portrait of the Reformer, from which are taken almost all the 
common engravings of this wonderful man ; and, at the other end^ 
is a portrait of the beautiful Queen Mary, the unfortunate, if not 
the innocent object of his animadversions. That the sacrament was 
dispensed in Scotland by Knox, on various occasions and in dif- 
ferent places before this time, is abundantly clear from Knox and 
Calderwood's History, and from Wodrow's valuable MSS*, Vol. 
yi. p. 10 ; also from Dr Cook's History of the Reformation, and 
Petre's General History of the Church, Part ii. p. 184; but, in 
all the instances mentioned or alluded to by these authors, the 
sacrament must have been dispensed privately, and when the Po- 
pish church was in great vigour; whereas, when it was dispensed 
at Calder, the Reformation had made very considerable progress^ 
both at home and abroad ; and therefore there can be no reasoo 
to doubt but that this was the first open celebration of it in con- 
formity to the practice of the Reformed Church in Scotland, after 
the establishment of Presbyterianism by act of Parliament in 1592. 

In the middle of the kitchen of Calder House, is the deep draw- 
well already noticed ; and, if tradition can be trusted, there was a 
secret concealed passage under ground from Calder House to the 
church or village of Mid- Calder, from which it may be supposed 
that, at an early period of our history, Calder House must have 
been a place of considerable strength. 

There is another building of great antiquity, the parish church, 
which stands at a small distance from Calder House, on the south 
of the village. No date has been discovered to record the time 
of its erection. The walls are in excellent repair, and it was 
newly roofed in 1792, but the seating is of an earlier date. At 
the east end of the building is attached a cemetery belonging to 
the noble family. 

On the stones which support the Qothic windows are sculptured 
various coats of arms, of the Stewarts, Douglases, and TorphichenSi 
with the initials of the family name, from which there is some rea- 
son to believe that this fabric was originally erected by some of 
the ancestors of this noble family. Immediately opposite the pul- 
pit, within the church, are the remains of a very ancient wooden 
seat, on which is carved, in raised letters, the following inscrip- 
tion : — ** The Lord is my shepherd, I shall not want. 1595." 
It also contains the initials J. S., J. L., and Raw. This seat 
was probably erected soon after the Reformation ; for it is cer- 
tain that churches, in general, were not fully seated till long after 



MID-CALDER. 373 

that period. Near to this seat, when the church was lately un- 
dergoing a slight repair, several coins were found of the reign of 
Charles L 

Tumulu — The tumuli or cairns in Scotland are also known by 
the name of laws or barrows. Several of these are to be seen all 
along the banks of the Almond, not only as it runs through this 
parish, but through all its course, till it unites with the Frith of 
Forth -at Crapiond. On its south bank, about two miles west of 
the village, there may be seen four barrows or tumuli, near which, 
according to common tradition, a great battle was fought, in early 
times, between the Picts and Scots ; or at another period, when 
Constantino IV. attacked Malcolm, the Scottish general. Many 
tumuli or mounds of this kind are to be found where dead bodies 
have been deposited. At an early period of our history, the 
water of Almond is said to have been a very important pass, 
which may, in some degree, account for the great number of 
these barrows and stone coffins, which are everywhere to be found 
along its banks. 

Several other artificial mounds are to be seen not far from the 
banks of the Almond. One of the most remarkable of these is 
the Cunnigar^ which signifies the guard or keeper of the conies 
or rabbits. It lies between the Almond and the village ; and it 
is said that upon this mound were burnt many of those unhappy, 
wretched creatures, called witches. In those days of superstition, 
Calder was considered one of the most noted places of their ren- 
dezvous. The writer has conversed with people in this place^ 
who, in their youth, have known persons that were actually em- 
ployed to guard those who were suspected of witchcraft.* 

III. — Population. 

In 1755, according to Dr Webster's report, the amount of the 
population of this parish was 760 ; and, in 1793, Dr Wilson, states 
it, in his Statistical Account of that date, to be 1251, of whom 588 
were males, and 663 females, the latter thus exceeding the former by 
75. Of these, 689 belonged to the country part of the parish, and 
the remaining 562 were inhabitants of the town. He represents 
the population as having been for a few years previous to this date, 
rather upon the decline. In 1831, the population was 1412 ; in 
1836, it was 1404 ; and in 1841, 1456. 

For several years, it may be said that there have been no resi- 
dent heritors in the parish, excepting two very small proprietors. 

* The records of the ktrk-session^furnish some interesting notices on this subject. 



374 EDINBURGHSHIBE. 

Among the nobility who have property in this parish, are Lord 
Torphichen, the principal heritor, and the Earls of Morton, 
Buchan, and Rosebery. The number of persons who have land- 
ed property within the parish is twenty; and of these all except 
three have land of the yearly value of upwards of L.50. 

IV, — Industry. 

Agriculture. — Mr James Knox, who, some years ago, pub- 
lished an excellent map of the county of Mid-Lothian, has 
obligingly favoured the writer with an accurate statement of 
the number of imperial acres which the parish contains. He cal- 
culates that, on the north of a line due east and west, passing 
tfarof^ Westfield, there are 4815 imperial acres; and on the 
south of said line, 7524; making in all, 12j3d9 imperial acres. 
The proportion of arable to pasture lands, may be nearly as one 
to two. The farmers and proprietors are yearly reducing the 
quantity of uncultivated and mossy land ; ancf, by this means, are 
profitably increasing both their tillage and their pasture fields. 
There is no undivided common belonging to this parish, although 
the sheep farms have but few subdivisions, being mostly surrounded 
only with a ring fence. Excepting Calderwood, there is no copse 
or natural Wood, but the whole extent of land under planting is 
considerably above 200 acres. The trees are chiefly of the fir 
tribe, including also a mixture of ash, plane, elm, beech, and oak, 
&C. as already noticed : and, in the management of these planta- 
tions, the proprietors generally err, by not thinning and pruning 
them in proper time ; but this is no doubt of less importance in 
strips, which are intended chiefly for ornament and shelter. 

The best arable land in the lower districts lets at from L.2 to 
L.2, lOs. per acre ; the outfield in the higher grounds, if arable, 
from lOs. to 15s. 

The attention of agriculturists in this district has been chiefly di- 
rected to the dairy system. The dairy culture has been peculiarly ad- 
vantageous, both for a quick return of ready money for rent, and 
for enriching the land by means of an abundant supply of valua- 
able manure for such green crops as are necessary for winter food. 
It has been doubted by some practical farmers in this country, whe- 
ther keeping milch-cows, fattening cattle, or fattening sheep be the 
most profitable. In favour of milch-cows it may be observed, that, as 
theproduce of the dairy is never equal to the demand, the market is 
less fluctuating. The dairy farmer has more leisure also to attend to 
his farmi and has no occasion to spend bis money and his time at the 



MID-CALDER. 375 

country markets ; and milch-cows, properly fed and littered^ pro- 
duce the greatest quantity of good manure so necessary for the 
improvement of the land. In the reclaiming of waste land, little 
comparatively has been accomplished by either landlord or te-^ 
nants, when compared with what has been done in some other 
places. In thorough draining and deep ploughing, very little has 
hitherto been effected ; but, as the attention of both proprietors 
and tenants has lately begun to be directed to the great advantages 
arising from such obvious improvements, there can be no doubt there 
will soon be in both of these an extensive and rapid advancement 
Most of the farm buildings are very substantial ; and, in those 
lately erected, elegance as well as convenience has been an ob- 
ject of attention. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

In the town of Mid-Calder we have no weekly market, the shops 
being adequate for the supply of all necessary provisions. The 
market-town, to which all classes resort, and particularly the farm- 
ers on a Wednesday, is Edinburgh, which is distant twelve miles. 
Few from this quarter attend the market at Bathgate, although it 
is only seven miles distant ; nor do any attend the Linlithgow 
market, which is only two miles farther. 

Village^ Sfc. — Bellsquarry, which may be considered as the only 
other village in the parish, is distant about two miles westward of 
Mid-Calder. Its inhabitants are chiefly labourers and mechanics. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The church of Mid-Calder is situated 
near the north-east boundary of the parish, close to the village, 
and within a quarter of a mile of the parish of East Calder, which 
was formerly included in that of Mid«CaIder. This may account 
for the present position of the church, which cannot be less than 
from seven to eight miles distant from the most remote house in 
the upper or pastoral district of the parish ; but, considering the 
state of the population, this, after all, is the best situation, as it 
is nearest and most convenient for the great bulk of the inhabi- 
tants. The church is in good repair ; but the exact period of its 
erection cannot be ascertained. It contains 438 sitters, at eighteen 
inches each, but may easily accommodate 100, or perhaps 150 
more, including young and old, without being much over-crowded. 
Fully one-half of the whole tenantry who have taken leases, andnow 
occupy farms in this parish, are Seceders; and several families who 
belong to the Establishment, being nearer to the parish churches of 
Livingstone and West Calder than their own, have always been ac« 



376 EDINRURQHSHIRE. 

customed to attend public worship at these places. A small number 
of the poorer families in the village also seldom attend any place of 
worship, under the pretence of want of suitable clothing; so that in- 
cluding these, and the number of servants necessarily detained at 
home in the management of large dairy farms, the church, though 
always well attended in good weather, is never crowded except 
during the time of the communion. The church has never been 
legally divided ; but the heritors, at a meeting by a written agree- 
ment, to which they adhibited their signatures, appropriated the 
seats according to their valuations when it was new seated, 8th 
August 1768. This document was also signed by their preses, 
with reference to their sederunt of that date, the original plan and 
copy of which are laid up, and may be found among Lord Tor- 
phichen*s papers. Ever since patronage has become the law of 
the land, it has been exercised by the Torphichen family, in such 
a manner as has always given satisfaction to the parishioners ; so 
that every clergyman presented to this benefice has uniformly met 
with the most cordial reception from the people. By the ** De- 
creet of locality, 20th July 1647, the local stipend and provision 
of the Kirk of Colder ComiHs^ is found and declared to be 1200 
merks, and 50 merks for communion elements, and a tack duty 
payable by Lord Torphichen, of L.20 Scots, four kyne, and a 
horse's grass in the wood of Calder, together with the manse and 
glebe." In 1743, James, Lord Torphichen, brought a process 
of reduction of the decreet against the heritors, in so far as it 
could import a valuation of the teinds in exclusion of the titular ; 
but the Lords repelled the reasons of reduction and assoilzied the 
defenders. The access to the pasturage in the wood of Calder 
being found not only extremely inconvenient in crossing the water 
in time of flood, but sometimes even dangerous, this servitude was 
afterwards exchanged for an additional piece of Jand, which, being 
added to the glebe, made the whole extend to eight acres. In 
1806, these eight acres were given in exchange for forty-three 
acres and one rood of land, of a quality proportionabiy inferior, 
and situated about three-quarters of a mile west of the village ; 
and, in 1807, the present manse and offices were erected on the 
new glebe. When land was at its highest value in 1806, the 
ground of the present glebe was estimated at L.1, 6s. per acre; 
and a small part of the old glebe, about half an acre being let as 
garden ground, was valued at L.8^ 8s. ; the rest of it at L.5, 5s. 
per acre; and to this was added an additional allowance for re- 

4 



MID-GALDRR* 377 

moving the glebe at so iDcoDvenient a distance from the manse 
and Tillage. This exchange led to many improvements, and was 
the occasion of very considerable expenses to both parties. It 
greatly added to the beauty of the access to Calder House, and, 
in time, will add to the value of the glebe to future incumbents^ 
The approach to Calder House now runs along a beautiful bank 
through the old glebe, which has been greatly ornamented by 
planting. Considerable sums have also been laid out on the new 
glebe, which Is now let at L.1, 10s* per acre, exclusive of the 
roads and strips of planting. The whole teind of the pa-^ 
rish, which was valued in 1647, at that time amounted only to 
1250 merks, or L.69, 8s. lO^^d., from which, after deducting 
L.8, 6s. 8d. the legal allowance for communion, elements, there 
remains of free teind only L.61, 2s. 2/j,d. ; but, by the Govern- 
ment bounty, the minister receives L.88, 17s. lOd. Sterling per 
annum, to make up his stipend, in terms of the late Act of Par- 
liament, to L.150, besides the L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. 
Although there was no free teind in this parish, the heritors, in 
1805, with the exception of two or three, presented the present 
incumbent with a bond for a voluntary augmentation of one-half 
more than the stipend they were legally bound to pay. 

There is one Seceding meeting*house or chapel in this parish, 
which was erected in 1765. It is beautifully situated on the north 
bank of the Almond Water, near the village, and can accom* 
modate nearly 400 sitters. About 90 seats are let to the people 
of this parish, including those occupied by paupers, which are 
paid out of their session funds. Between 70 and 80 of the 
communicants belong to this parish, and the other members 
are from the neighbouring districts. The emoluments amount to 
L.1 00, arising from seat*rents and collections, with a house and 
garden, and a little more than two acres of land for a glebe. Be- 
sides this, the present minister has a salary of L.50, as Professor 
of Pastoral Theology and Ecclesiastical History ; and, during the 
discharge of the duties of this office, he resides in Edinburgh for 
the two months of August and September, teaching four hours 
every lawful day, Saturday excepted, and the number of students 
attending his class is about 70. There are only two Episcopal 
and one Catholic family in this parish. The number of commu- 
nicants in the Established Church is from 340 to 400. 

£ducation.^-^Besides the parochial, there are six day and three 



378 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

evening schools in the parish, and the number of scholars at each 
is 335. 

Of this number forty-two come from the adjoining parishes^ 
and about seven or eight go from this parish to the neighbouring 
schools ; so that the number of scholars that have been for some 
months under a course of instruction in the parish during this year 
may be fairly estimated at 300, which is more than the, fifth of 
the population. One of the female schools is supported partly by 
subscription ; but all the rest, excepting the parish school, are on 
the teacher's own adventure. The children in all those schools 
are instructed in the common branches of education ; and in the 
female schools they are also taught needle-work and knitting. 

In addition to the common branches, the parish schoolmaster 
teaches Latin, Greek, French, practical mathematics, algebra, 
mechanics, also ancient and modem geography, and church mu- 
sic ; and for the last receives the sum of L.1 1, 2s. 2^d. per annum, 
arising from money mortified on the lands of the barony of Calder, 
by a person of the name of Moodie, who was a cadger or carrier 
of eggs and poultry to Edinburgh, during the time of the plague. 
Having escaped the infection, he amassed a considerable fortune, 
and left a sum of money for the support of our parish school, be- 
sides other property. The patrons and managers of this morti- 
fication were, *' Lord Torphichen, Sir Alexander Maxwell of 
Saughtonhall, afterwards of Calderwood, with one or two of the 
ministers of Edinburgh, at the time, who have a right to present 
a person fit to teach the four parts of grammar, and art of music, or, 
at least, should be obliged to keep a doctor, for teaching the music 
art," as the said deed of mortification more fully bears. This deed 
also bears, that he is to enjoy and uplift every other casualty and 
privilege, as also to possess the dwelling-house there built for the 
use of the schoolmaster, he always teaching in manner as before 
stated. When any vacancy in the office of schoolmaster occurs, 
the successor requires to be presented to the situation by the pa- 
trons above-mentioned in due form. The maximum salary pay- 
able to the schoolmaster, therefore, is L.34, 4s. 44d., which, with 
L.lt 6s. 8d. for deficiency of garden-ground, makes L.35, 1 Is, O^d.; 
add the 4000 merks for teaching music, L.1], 2s. 2^. ; registra- 
tion fees, and proclamation of banns, calculated at L.8, 8s. ; al- 
lowance for precenting and distributing poor's funds, at L.5 each, 
-L.10; fees for session-clerk, L.8^ 8s., and for heritor^s clerk, 
L.2, 2s. ; the average school-fees for the last four years, 

3 



MlD-CAlDEIt. 879 

L.65; total iDCome, L.1359 lis* 3cl. : besides an excellent housei 
garden, and offices, with the advantage arising from boarders, and 
the chance of occasional private teaching, and an evening schooK 
Library. — There is one circulating library in the pansb, of a 
very inferior description, consisting of a few obscure writers in di- 
vinity, and some old magazines and novels. 

The only Friendly Society ot charitable institution in the parish 
"^ woent, is the Mason's Lodge, consisting of 160 members. 

^ ^i*he funds amount to L.d70, and they give out to sick members 
6s. a week, and allow L.5, 58. to each member towards the ex- 
penses of their funeraU This charitable institution has existed 
for eighteen years, and is composed of members from different pa- 
rishes, and is still in a flourishing condition. 

Poor and Parochial jPuiub.— The list of paupers upon the roll 
varies much according to circumstances. About a hundred years 
ago, the number of poor, as appears from the books of deaconry, 
generally ranged from eight to twelve. In 1557 and 1758^ it va- 
ried^ from fifteen to twenty, besides paupers not upon the regular 
roll. Within these few years, those who were enrolled as perma- 
nent paupers amounted for a short time only to three, but besides 
these several others received occasional relief. 

At present there are ten paupers receiving parochial relief, each 

* of whom is allowed, at an average, about one shilling weekly. In 
addition to these, a few others receive occasional assistance, which 
18 generally laid out in the purchase of fuel and payment of house- 
rents. For some years past, however, many children count it no 
reproach to have their parent's names placed upon the parish roll, 
so that the number and expense of the poor has been gradually 
increasing. In 1839, the amount of distribution was L.63, 10s. d|d«; 
in 1834, it was L.82, 4s. lid. ; in 1835, it was L.68k 5s. Id. ; in 
1836, it was L.71, 186. Id. Our collections at the church door 
may average from L.28 to L.30 per annum. 

Among the many kind and generous friends of the poor«of this 
parish, none has a greater claim to their gratitude than the Dow- 
ager Lady Torphichen of Cramond. Ever since the decrease of 
the late Lord Torphichen, in 1815, her Ladyship has annually 
remitted to the minister of this parish L.10, to be distributed to 
the most necessitous and deserving of the poor, in additional com- 
forts, over and above all to which they may otherwise be entitled 
from the parochial funds. 

Fairs. — Two fairs are held here annually, one in March, the 



880 EDINBUilQHSHIRE. 

Other in October. Both of these are intended for the sale of cat- 
tle and horses, for hiring farm^servants, and for transacting all 
other kinds of country business. 

Fueh — The vast quantity of coal now annually consumed by the 
manufacture of iron, and by steam-engines, has raised the price of 
this necessary article of daily use so high, as to render it scarcely 
attainable by the poorer classes of the community. The conversion 
of common peat-moss into a fuel has, therefore, become an ob- 
ject of no inconsiderable importance. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
In addition to the names of ministers of the parish already men* 

tioned, it may be here stated, that Mr George Dunbar, minister 
of this parish, died about the end of 1641, and Mr Samuel Ru- 
therford was presented to the kirk of Calder in October 1642. 
Some have supposed that Mr Rutherford was presented to 
the kirk of West Calder ; but this seems to be an error, as 
the erection of West Calder did not take place till 1645. 
On the Idth of April 1643, Mr Hew Kennedy was ordained 
and inducted. For the ceremony of institution, the moderator 
delivered to Mr Hew the Bible and the keys of the kirk door, and 
also gave him possession of the manse and glebe by delivering to 
him ** sand and stean.'' He was a very remarkable man, and soon 
distinguished himaelf as one of the most zealous of the protest* 
ing party, — of which Samuel Rutherford, James Guthrie, Patrick 
Gillespie, &c. were the heads. He continued in the charge of the 
parish till the restoration of Charles II., and was regarded by his 
brethren, after the Revolution, as one of the most distinguished 
of the ministers who had survived the persecutions. He was 
the moderator of the first General Assembly which met after the 
re-establishment of the Presbyterian Church Government in 1690. 
In 1663, Mr Colvill was admitted minister of Mid- Calder, and 
died in February 1671 ; and, on 26th May 1672, Mr John So- 
merville succeeded him as minister of this parish. 



PARISH OF DUDDINGSTON.* 

PRESBTTERT OF EDINBURGH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. JAMES MACFARLANE, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — The name of this parish was written in the charters of 
the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, Dodinestun, — being evi* 
dently derived from the settlement here of a person designed Do* 
din, whose {tun^ Sax.) or town it was during the reigns oif David I. 
and Malcolm IV. This fact is established by a charter of William 
de Vetere Ponte, granted to the canons of Holyrood, to which 
^* Hugo Filius Dodini de Dodinestun" appears to have been a 
witness. 

Extent and Boundaries. — This parish is bounded on the south 
by part of the parishes of Inveresk and Libberton ; on the west and 
north, by St Cuthbert's, Canongate, and South Leith ; and on the 
east, by the Frith of Forth. It contains 1450 Scotch acres, or 
1812^ imperial, or two square miles and a half; it extends from 
west to east three miles, and from north to south nearly one mile 
and a half. It is of an irregular Bgure, and resembles a wedge in 
shape, with the broad end towards Arthur's Seat. 

Topographical Appearances. — The general appearance is level, 
with a gentle slope descending from the base of Arthur's Seat 
towards the Frith of Forth. The soil, in general, is rather poor, 
and consists of a brownish-coloured earth, seldom more than six- 
teen inches in depth, and frequently not so much. Towards the 
east, it rests on a strong clay, and along the sea^coast, it is of a 
light sandy nature. There is not a parish in Scotland more high* 
ly cultivated, nor one which resembles more the rich champaign of 
England in its general aspect The whole, with the exception of 
a few acres, is arable. 

* Drawn up dnrioff Uie incumbency of the Rer. John Tboroion, by the Rev. J. 
Gardiner, and revisea August 184Si 



382 £DINBURGH19^1RB. 

Hydrography. — A small rivulet, which takes its rise in the nor- 
thero side of the Pentland Hills, and passes through the centre 
of the pleasure-grounds of Duddingston House, where it is re- 
ceived in ponds to supply the flour-mills of Duddingston, empties 
itself into the Frith of Forth at the west end of Portobello. 
There is another small stream, called Brunstane-burn, which se- 
parates Duddingston parish from Inveresk and Libberton on the 
south, and flows into the Frith of Forth at the St Magdalene 
Foundry near Fisherrow, 

There is an abundant supply of spring wells of the purest water 
near Wester Duddingston. The wells, from which the inhabitants 
of this village are supplied, have been found by chemical analysis 
made by the late Dr Murray, lecturer on chemistry, to contain a 
less proportion of earthy matter than any springs in the immediate 
neighbourhood of Edinburgh* There is also a loch in thjs pa- 
rish, lying at the south base of Arthur's Seat, and encompassed on 
the east by the grounds of the Marquis of Abercorn, — a fine sheet 
of water, covering a surface of twenty*five acres, and about half a 
mile in circumference. It has been considerably diminished of 
late years, by draining on the west side, and deepening the out- 
let ; still it is nearly the third part of a mile in length. It is much 
frequented by the citizens of Edinburgh for the favourite amuse- 
ments of curling and skating, when the season permits. It is sup- 
plied with water by a small stream from the west, and by springs 
from Artbor's Seat. There is one chalybeate spring lately dis- 
covered in the vicinity of the village of Joppa. During eight 
months in the year south or west winds constantly prevail, and 
during the other four months east or north winds, alternating 
with north-west and south-west winds. The annual mean tem- 
perature is 47° 3r, and the annual average fall of rain is twenty- 
three inches. 

Geology* — This parish abounds in coal, and previous to the 
year 1790, 270 workmen were in constant employment. At 
that period, thirteen seams of coal had been discovered, and 
partly wrought upon the grounds of Duddingston, and several of 
these seams were of a first-rate quality. The inclinations and 
dips of the minerals were to the west, and nearly at an angle of 
45 degrees from the horizon to the east, which always rendered 
the working of the coal an extremely difficult and dangerous 
process, and which, in the end, was the cause of these mines 
being given up, as they could not be kept clear of water. When 



DUDDiNOSTON. 383 

the lands of Duddingston belonged to the Duchess of Argyle, a 
machine, named *^ chains and basket/' was employed to raise the 
water from a great depth. At the time this property was purchas- 
ed by the late Earl of Abercorn in the year 1745, the coal mines 
were let to a Mr Biggar of Woolmet, a man of very considerable 
enterprize, who opened a level from the sea, in the form of a large 
drain, more than three miles in extent, which he carried through 
the estates of Duddingston, Niddry, and part of Edmonstone, as 
far as Woolme(>bank. This extensive level proved of great ad- 
vantage to the proprietors of the more elevated coaKworks, but, in 
the end, completely ruined the collieries of Duddingston by an 
overflow of water. About the year 1763, the Earl of Abercorn, 
in order to clear the mines of this water, erected a powerful engine 
which extended its operations to the depth of fifty-two fathoms. 
This engine was rendered altogether useless in 1 790, when, on 
the 20th of March, the whole seams were overflowed and choked, 
from the communication of the level with the higher grounds. It 
may ^ Mentioned also, that, before this time, another engine of 
even greater power had been erected near the southern boundary 
of the parish, to work the coal of Brunstane. The shaft of this 
engine-pit reached to the depth of sixty fathoms, and intersected 
three seams of coal ; the first was seven feet thick, the second 
nine, and the last fifteen. The other substances through which it 
descended, were deep strata of a coarse red sandstone ; and near- 
est to the coal, a kind of pyrites schist, which the workmen called 
*^ bands of bleas." There is much unexhausted coal in the pa- 
rish ; and the Marquis of Abercorn has lately leased the mines to 
an English gentleman. A powerful steam-engine has recently 
been erected, and it is expected that a large supply of coal will 
shortly be obtained. 

On the beach at Joppa, immediately east of Portobello, suc- 
cessive layers of shale, sandstone, and coal, are distinctly visible. 
The stratum is here nearly vertical, and extends some hun- 
dreds of yards," yet it is only a small portion of the depth of the 
coal-field, and afibrds an instructive specimen of the partial eleva- 
tions which take place through the whole country, s^nd how difii- 
eult a matter it is to judge of the actual position of relative strata 
from such casual views. The quarry, at the same place, shows 
the northern portion of the coal-seams exposed to view. The dif- 
ferent characters of the sandstone beds are easily seen, some layers 
being fine-grained and compact, others friable, and composed of 



384 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

large loosely-cemented qiiartzose particles. Strata of limestone and 
ironstone are found to pass through this parish, which dip into the 
seai near to its eastern extremity. Freestone, of a good quality, is 
quarried to a considerable extent, on account of the increase of 
buildings both at Portobello and Joppa. In a portion of the glebe 
near the loch, beds of quartzy sandstone and of siliceous limestone 
crop out. The trap rock on which these strata rest afford grains 
of olivine, and of augite, along with crystals of basaltic hornblende. 
In the bed of Duddingston-burn, there is a stratum of black-co- 
loured stone, soft, smooth, and unctuous in appearance and to the 
touch, which, as it admits of a fine polish, might be cut into beau- 
tiful jambs and mantel-pieces for chimneys. Petroleum and 
manganese have been found in small quantities in the crevices of 
the freestone quarries. On the sea-coast, many curious and rare 
specimens of petrified plants and trees have been found in the in- 
terstices of the rocks and stones. Some of these resembled the 
finest Marseilles quilting ; others were evidently petrifactions of 
reeds, and of exotic plants now known to be indigenous in' tropical 
regions. Pieces of chalcedony, porphyry, agate, and jasper have 
been frequently found along the shore of the Frith in this parish. 
Strata of clay have been found so pure, that crucibles and bricks 
formed of it are capable of resisting heat to a high degree. Marl 
of different kinds, and some of a rich quality, is found abundantly 
in Duddingston-loch, along the side of the property of Sir Ro- 
bert Keith Dick. Formerly, large quantities of this substance 
were used as manure, but the abundant supply of that article from 
Edinburgh, of a more fertilizing nature, has put an end to its be- 
ing now used in this manner. 

Botany. — The plants found in this parish are very numerous, 
perhaps more so than in any parish of Scotland; and if we were to in- 
clude the King's Park and Arthur's Seat, a more extensive field for 
the researches of the botanist, in so small a space, could not be 
found. As we are particularly desirous to pay the greatest at- 
tention to this branch of our subject, it is proposed to enumerate, 
first, the plants which are found in and around the loch, and then 
the plants which have been discovered in the other parts of this 
parish. In accordance with this plan, we mention, the following : 

Hippuris vulgaris Lemna minor Galium palustre 

Chara vulgaris -.n.^. gibba Potamogeton crispum 

Callitricbe aquatica Iris pseudacorus ..—..-.-.^^ peotinatum 

Veronica scutellata Scirpus palustris Myosotis palustris 

^ anagallis Pbalaris arundinacea — .»— versicolor 

— — Becoabanga Anindo phragpnites Menyanthes trifoliata 

Lemna trisulca Aira aquatica Lysimacbia thyrsiflora 



DUDDINGSTON. 385 

Hydrocotylfl vulgaris Comarum palustre Senccio aquaiiciu 

Sium latifblium Stratiotes aloides Orchis latifolia 

■ ■ ■ »■ anguatifblium Ranunculus aquatilis _^_ maculata 

Alisma plantago lingua Spai^anium ramosum 

— — — — ranunculoides _ sceleratus Carex muricata 

Epilobium pa]ustre Mentha fairsuta -.^^ acuta 

Polygonum amphibium Rhinantbus crista- Galli .Myriophylluni spicatum 

Butomus umbellatus Pedicularis palustris Saliz Russelliana 

Stellaria glauca Natsturtium amphibium Equisetum limosum * 

Lychnis Flos-Cuculi Bidens cernua -_^» palustre 
5$pergiila nodosa 

The plants which are found in other parts of this parish are : 

Humulus Lupulus Geranium dissectum Scirpus lacustris. 

Antirrhinum cymbalaria Carduus acanthus 

The trees around the pleasure grounds of Duddingston House, 
and the mansion of Sir Robert Keith Dick, are, oak, ash, beech, 
hornbeam, cedar, English elm, thorn, birch, silver and balm of 
Gilead 6rs, holly, plane, lime, Spanish chestnut, and willow ; but 
none of them is remarkable for its size. There was a hawthorn 
tree which grew very near the western gate, close by the road side, 
which leads from Portobello to the village of Wester Duddingston, 
of remarkable age and size, which had long been an object of parti- 
cular attraction for its beauty when in blossom, as the largest haw- 
thorn in Scotland ; but this venerable tree was blown down by the 
storm in May 1840. There is also an ash growing in the cen- 
tre of the manse garden, measuring 1 1 feet six inches in circum- 
ference ; and several large willows on the property of Sir Robert 
Keith* Dick, about 11 feet. 

IL— Civil History. 

In the year 1674, the estate of Duddingston became the pro- 
perty of the Duke of Lauderdale, and passed with a daughter 
of his first Duchess, under the name of pin-money, to the family 
of Argyle, to whose first Duke she was married. 

It is mentioned as a historical fact, that, when the greater 
portion of this parish was forest, particularly what was called 
the Figget Whins, it afforded shelter to the brave Sir Wil- 
liam Wallace and his bold companions, when they were on 
their way to attack Berwick. It is also stated that the Scotch 
leaders, before the battle of Dunbar, demanded a confe- 
rence with the Usurper, Cromwell, who consented to meet 
them, on the following day, half-way between Leith and Mussel- 
burgh rocks, at low water, upon the sands, each party to be ac- 
companied by 100 men on horse back. Any question they might 
choose to propose, he agreed to answer, but declined admitting of 
any animadversion or reply. A part of this curious conference is 
said to have been in the following words : " Why did you put 

EDIMBUBGH. Bb 



386 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

the King to death ?" He answered, " Because he was a tyrant 
and deserved death." ** Why did you dissolve the Parliament ?" 
*^ Because they were greater tyrants than the King, and it required 
dissolution ?" In 1745, the forces of the unfortunate Prince 
Charles Edward were encamped for more than a month to the 
east of the village of Wester Duddingston, on the level plain, by 
the burnside which now forms part of the present enclosures of the 
pleasure gounds of Duddingston House, both before and after be 
defeated General Cope at Preston. The house in the village, be- 
longing, at that time, to a Mr Horn, a farmer, is still standing 
and inhabited, where the Prince slept the night previous to the 
battle* 

On the 13th September 1744, a waterspout broke upon the 
top of Arthur's Seat, and dividing its force, one part was discharg- 
ed upon the western side, and tore up a channel visible to this day, 
as a lasting monument of its violence ; the other took its direction 
towards the village of Duddingston, carried away a gable of a cot- 
tage to the west, and flooded the loch to a great degree. 

Eminent Men. — About the middle of the seventeenth century 
this parish had for its clergyman, a person of the name of Monteith, 
a man of more than ordinary attainments. Forgetful, however, of 
his character and the sacredness of his profession, he engaged in an 
illicit amour with a lady of quality in the neighbourhood, and found 
himself under the necessity ** tojlee" from the scene of his disgrace 
and degradation. He repaired to France, and immediately waited 
upon the celebrated Richelieu, and applied to him for employment. 
. He told Richelieu, that he was of the Monteith family in Scotland. 
The Cardinal remarked that he was well acquainted with the 
Monteiths, and desired to know to what branch of the family be 
*^ pertained" The parson, whose father had been a plain fisher- 
man in the salmon trade of the Forth, somewhere above Alloa, 
readily answered, that he was of the Monteiths of Salmonet. 
Richelieu acknowledged that he had never heard of that branch, but 
admitted, with becoming candour, notwithstanding his ignorance, 
that it might be a very illustrious family. He took Monteith under 
his patronage, and soon after advanced him to be his secretary, in 
which situation he wrote and published some essays, which were ad- 
mired in that age, as specimens of the remarkable purity of style 
and facility of diction, which a foreigner could attain in the FreDch 
language. His chief work was ** La Histoire des Troubles de la 



DUDDINGSTON. 387 

Grande Bretagne depuis,'' &c. ; par T. M. de Salmonet, A. Pa- 
ris :** printed probably in the year 1672. An English translation 
of this work has also been published. Charles Lumsden was for 
a short time one of the regents in the University of Edinburgh ; 
and, in 1586, was appointed minister of Duddingston. He pub- 
lished, in 1600, an English translation of Rolock'^s *^ Exposition 
of some of the Select Psalms." Mr David Malcolm was 
minister of Duddingston prior to the year 1741. He had de- 
voted much of his time to the study of languages and antiquities, 
and was received a member of the London Antiquarian Society. 
He published some essays and letters in 1739, which display a 
very considerable knowledge of the Celtic and Hebrew languages, 
and were chiefly intended to form an introduction to his unfinish- 
ed Celtic Dictionary. These essays are commended by Mr Pink* 
erton, and quoted by Gibelin in his ^^ Monde Primitif, and Bul- 
let," in his '^ Memoires Celtiques." His successor, Mr Pollock, 
soon after his admission, was appointed Professor of Divinity at 
Aberdeen. We think it proper to state also, that the celebrated John 
and Archibald, successive Dukes of Argyle, spent much of their 
time at Brunstane, in this parish ; and, it is said, received a part 
of their education from the Duchess, their mother, who resided 
constantly here, prior to the year 1734. The late Sir Alexander 
Dick of Prestonfield, who died in 1785 at the venerable age of 
83, was a gentleman well known and highly respected for his ge^ 
neral attainments in literature, public spirit, and elegance of man- 
ners. Sir Alexander was the intimate friend of the celebrated 
Dr Samuel Johnson, who, while residing in Scotland with his. 
friend Boswell, spent several days with him at Prestonfield. Be- 
ing a younger son, he had studied medicine as a profession. He 
took the degree of M. D. at the University of Leyden ; practised 
as a physician for many years in Pembrokeshire ; and on his suo* 
ceeding to the family title, and on his consequent residence at Pres- 
tonfield, he was seven times successively elected President of the 
Royal College of Physicians in Edinburgh. The Rev. Thomas 
Gillespie, who was the first Relief minister, and founder of the 
Synod of Relief, was born at Clearburn, in this parish, in the year 
1 708. He died on the 19th January 1 774, at Dunfermline. The 
late minister of Duddingston, the Rev. John Thomson, was a 
member of the Royal Scottish Academy of Painting, and was ad- 
mitted to be the most eminent landscape painter of his day in 

Scotland. 
Land 'Owner 8.^^The chief land-owners are, the Most Noble the 



388 EDINBUIIGHSHIRE. 

Marquis of Abercorn ; Sir Robert Keith Dick, Bart, of Preston- 
field ; Humphrey Grahaai, Esq, W« S. ; and the heirs of Messrs 
Jameson and Baxter. Valued rental of the parish, L. 14^191 
Sterling. 

Parochial Raiders, — The date of the earliest paroehial record 
of births is in the year 1631 , which has been exceedingly well 
kept from 1640 to the present time. That of marriages was be- 
gun in 1813. 

Yearly average of registration of births for the last seven years, 
70 ; do. of marriages, dO ; do. of burials during the same time, 
88, or 12^ annually. 

Aniiquities. — Wester Duddingston was at one time a large and 
populous village. Nearly the whole of the tenants upon the ba« 
rony resided in it, prior to the year 1751. Before the same pe^ 
riod, it furnished 36 horses to carry coals in sacks or creels to 
Edinburgh. About eighty-two years ago, there were more than 
80 weavers' looms. These were employed chiefly in manufactur- 
ing a very coarse flaxen stuff*, then known by the name of Dud- 
dingston hardings, which sold from 3^. to 4d« per yard. No 
trade of the kind is carried on now, and there is not a wea- 
ver jn the village. At the time alluded to, this village Ci)n- 
tained considerably more than 500 inhabitants ; at present, the 
number is 225. Very little change has taken place in Easter 
Duddingston since 1796. 

Froissart affirms that there were above 100 chateaux in the 
neighbourhood of Edinburgh in the time of Queen Mary ; and 
though this parish is situated so near to the metropolis, it is ra- 
ther a singular circumstance that no remains of the ruins of castle, 
camp, or tower can be traced within its bounds. Indeed, the 
greatest object of antiquity is the church. Though it has been 
modernized in outward appearance, some of its interior ornaments, 
and the structure of the arches, are of great antiquity. Dr Lit^ 
tleton, when Bishop of Carlisle, and upon a visit to the Lord of 
the manor, was of opinion that it must have been the work of the 
Saxons. There is no record, authority, or date, by which we 
can ascribe its origin to so remote a period. Under the belfry 
there appears a date beginning 51 ; but of which the remaining 
cyphers and the rest of the inscription are now obliterated. Abot^ 
sixty years ago, in dragging the marl from Duddingston Loch, 
the head and horns of a stag, some coins with the inscriptioiia 
completely efiaced, the blade of a sword, and the heada of some 
spears and javelins, from their formation supposed to be Roman, 



DUPDINGSTON* , 88^ 

■ 

nvere discovered. Some of these relicts of ancient times were sent 
to the museum of th^ King, some were presented to the Antiqua- 
rian Society, and the remainder are preserved in Prestonfield 
House. In the meadow around the loch, on opening some drains 
under the first strata of moss and gravel, the remains of oak trees, 
hazel bushes, and nuts, and the almost consumed iron of horse 
shoes of different dimensions, have been found. At the mouth of 
Duddingston, on the Figget Burn, the trunks of large oak trees 
have beien discovered in a deep stratum of clay, which, when cut 
or broken, have been found as black as ebony to the very heart. 
They may be, it is supposed, remnants of the King's forest to the 
east of Edinburgh, in which, it appears by the original charter of 
erection of the Monastery of the Holy Cross, the monks obtained 
a privilege to send their hogs to feed. At the north-east boun- 
dary of the parish, to the west of Portobello, there is a fragment 
of an old causeway, resembling the Roman roads, which, not 
very long ago, formed part of the great road from Edinburgh to 
London. Some suppose that it was part of the Roman road be- 
tween the stations of Inveresk and Cramond, while others conjec- 
ture it to be a remnant of one of those regular roads which 
Queen Mary is said to have so attentively encouraged for the im- 
provement of her kingdom. We may state in support of this opi- 
nion, thai several roads of the same kind converged to the Palace 
of Holyrood. The burghs of Linlithgow and Peebles are said to 
have been bound to uphold this causeway ; and it is known to 
have been a common practice of Queen Mary to allow to bodies 
corporate, and even to private individuals, grants of certain pri- 
vileges, immunities, &c. on the condition of their making and up- 
holding particular roads and paths. This road is entirely disused, 
except as a foot-path, and is called the ^* Fishwifc^s CausewayJ* 
From the north side of the outer gateway which leads into the 
churchyard, hangs an iron collar, an ancient symbol of the eccle- 
siastical discipline of former days. A century ago. Wester Dud- 
dingston was a place famed for the preparation of singed sheep's 
heads, which is supposed to have arisen from the practice of 
slaughtering the sheep fed on the neighbouring hill for the mar- 
ket, removing the carcases to town, and leaving the heads to be 
consumed in the place. 

Modern Buildings, — Duddingston House, the seat of the MosI 
Noble the Marquis of Abercorn, is a handsome mansion, erected 
after a design by Sir William Chatnbers, the celebrated architect. 
The house and offices were finished in 1768, which, with the lay- 



390 EDINBURGHSHIRE* 

iDg out and planting of the pleasure-grounds, (which are remark* 
ably fine and planned with great taste,) cost the Noble proprietor 
L.dO,000. Prestonfield, the seat of Sir Robert Keith Dick, Bart, is 
pleasantly situated near the south margin of the loch. Dudding- 
ston Cottage, the summer residence of T. Guthrie Wright, Esq* 
W. S., and Commissioner of the Marquis of Abercorn. Wood* 
land Cottage, the residence of Morton Carr, Esq. Dudding- 
ston flour and barley*mills, erected a few years ago at an expense 
of L.6000, contain machinery of the very best and most improv- 
ed kind, and are driven by water and steam, as circumstances 
allow ; and Cauvin's Hospital. At Portobello there is an ex* 
tensive manufactory of flint-glass, besides one for coarse earthen- 
ware, two for bricks and tiles, a chemical work, and a mill for 
manufacturing paper. Salt is made at Joppa, and the Maitland 
Pans, which derive their name from a member of the Lauderdale 
family, who first erected them. In the churchyard there is an 
elegant marble obelisk, erected to the memory of the late Patrick 
Ualdane, Esq. The farm-houses and steadings in this parish 
cannot be surpassed in any part of Scotland for comfort, elegance, 
and accommodation. 

III. — Population. 

The population of this parish, as returned to the late Dr Webhter in 1755> amounted 

to 969. 

In 1794, . 910, of whom 428 were males, and 482 females. 

1801, . 1000 

1811, . 15S8 
1821, 1012 

1831 , . 8862, of whom 1625 are males, and 2237 females. 
1841, 4840 

Kumber of inhabitants residing in Portobello, S587 

the village of Joppa, . 889 

the landward part, 295 

Wester Ouddingston, 225 

Easter Duddingston, 172 

There are four insane persons in this parish, supported from the 
funds of the session, at L.20 each per annum. 

IV. — Industry. 
AgricuUure and Rural Economy. — 

Number of acres in the parish, . . ]4^ 

cultivated, . . . gQO 

under wood, water, meadows, feus, and pasture, 650 

Rent of Land. — All the land in this parish is arable, with the 
exception above stated. The average rental per acre is L.5, lOs.; 
and the grass parks belonging to Sir R. K. Dick, in the immediate 
neighbourhood of Edinburgh, let to cowfeeders at L. 7, lOs. per 
acre. Grazing of a milch cow is charged during the sunmier sea^^ 
son Is. per day. 



DUDDIN6ST0N. 891 

Liv^^stock, — Almost no stock is reared in this parish. The 
farmers merely keep a cow or two of Ayrshire or Teeswater breed 
for the use of their families. 

Horses* — The horses used for farm labour are of a large size, 
and very powerful, in general of the Clydesdale breed, and will 
average in price from L.d5 to L.40 Sterling each< 
. Husbandry, — There is no parish in Scotland where the land is^ 
better cultivated, or yields greater returns from the various crops sown 
or planted. The farmers are men of independence; on that ac- 
count no obstacles to improvement arise from the want of capital 
or the liberality of the proprietors. The duration of leases ex- 
tends from fifteen to nineteen years ; and the farms vary in size 
from 130 to 250 acres. . The state of farm-buildings and of en- 
closures is as good as can possibly be desired. 

We may here state, that the lands of Prestonfield were the first 
in the parish that were improved, or, probably, in the county. 
The proprietor of that estate was Lord Provost of Edinburgh 
about the time of the Revolution in 1688. At that period, the 
manure from the streets was so little valued, that, instead of bring- 
ing any revenue«to the city, a very considerable sum was paid to 
the farmers in the neighbourhood to carry it away. The Lord 
Provost availed himself of the general anxiety to have the filth re- 
moved, and undertook to clean the streets, which he did for a very 
considerable time, and had the whole carried off on horses' backs 
to his estate of Prestonfield. He, at the same time, laid down his 
fields in a high state of condition, and began to enclose, subdivide, 
and drain them ; and, in the course of a few years, his estate be- 
came one of the best and richest in the county ; and to this day, 
the grass parks of Prestonfield are deemed superior to any around 
the city, or even in Scotland, and, since that time, have never been 
ploughed. 

Produce. — The average amount of raw produce yearly raised in 
the parish may be stated as follows : 

Grain of aU kinds, 

Green crop. 

Hay, 

Paatore, 

Gardens and orchards, 

L.10,252 

Manufactures* — Formerly, as stated above, a coarse kind of 
cloth, made from flax, and known by the name of Duddingston 
hardings, was manufactured to a considerable extent, but was given 
up many years ago. The several branches of manufacture carried 



L.5440 








1920 








1280 








1162 








4^ 









3i^!3 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

OD at present are, crystal and glass, eartken-ware, tiles and bricks, 
a small iron foundery, and a manufactory of bats; a ch^nical work, 
the making of paper, all of which are in active operatiee, and af- 
ford constant employment to a large portion of the working- classes 
in Portobello. Salt is still prepared at Joppa Pans. Clearbura 
was, till within the last sixty years, the site of a thriving village, cele- 
brated for its breweries ; but no vestige of its former state remains. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market-TownyS^c. — There are no regular markets held in this pa* 

rish ; but provisions of all kinds, and of good quality, can be purchased 
at Portobello, which is in the immediate neighbourhood of all the vil* 
lages in the parish. Tha first house erected in Portobello wasa small 
cottage, still standing, and pointed out as a curiosity, in the centre 
of the town, on the south side of the main street. It was built by a 
retired sailor, who had been with Admiral Vernon in his South 
American expedition, and therefore named it Portobello, in com- 
memoration of the capture of that town in 1789. The increase 
of population was much accelerated by the establishment of bride; 
and tile-works, and, soon after, by an earthenware manufactory, 
&c. Besides becoming the residence of the wcyrkmen employed 
at these manuiactories, Portobello, from the salubrity of the air, 
and its delightful situation, very soon became a place of great re- 
sort for sea-bathing quarters, not only for fiimilies from Edinburgh, 
but also from the surrounding country, and thus increased in siz« 
every year. At this time, no regularity or uniformity was observed 
in building the houses, farther than suited the taste or fortune of 
the proprietor, so that we now find it a town of villas, large and 
small. Many of these were built of brick, and had small shrub* 
beries in front, and were well adapted for the residences of single ' 
families. Of late years, much greater regularity has been ob^ 
served in laying out the streets and in building the houses, in 
consequence of their being reared on speculation by builders; and 
in a short time Portobello will be one of the handsomest towns of 
its size in Britain, At present, it consists of a long principal street, 
extending from one end of it to the other, lining the London and. 
Edinburgh road, with a number of streets diverging to the north 
and south. The houses are now built of freestone of a good qua- 
lity, procured at a short distance, in the style of those in the New 
Town of Edinburgh. Hot and cold-baths were erected upon an 
improved plan in 1805, and, within the last few years, a neat and 
commodious suit of markets. On the sands of Portobelto, in 1822, 
his late Majesty, George IV., reviewed several regiments and corps 



DUDDINGSTON. 393 

of cavalry and yeomanry ; also the Highland clans, ihat had as- 
sembled on the grand occasion of his visit to Scotland. Since the 
passing of the Reform Bill, Portobello has been a burgh, and is 
governed by a provost, two bailies, and six councillors ; and with 
Leith, Newhaven, Musselburgh, and Fisherrow, returns a member 
to Pariiament. Betwixt Edinburgh and Portobello coaches ply 
every hour, which keep up a constant thoroughfare betwixt the 
two places. Besides Portobello, there are other three villages, 
viz. Joppa, Easter and Wester Duddingston. 

Means of Communication, — The great road to London from 
Edinburgh runs for three miles through the parish. The roads 
in every direction are good, and kept in the best state of repair ; 
and if a more direct line, as is proposed, were opened betwixt 
Wester Duddingston and Edinburgh, the means of communication 
would be excellent A railroad for the purpose of conveying coals 
to the city passes through the parish, as well as a branch to Leith. 
The shareholders allow coaches to run for the conveyance of pas* 
sengers to Dalkeith, Musselburgh, &c. which is an extremely 
agreeable mode of travelling, and very cheap, as 6d. only is charged 
for each individual. There are two penny post-offices, viz. one at 
Portobello and another at Wester Duddingston, the latter of which 
was instituted very lately. 

. EcclniasHcal S^o^e.^- During the reign of William the Lion, 
the monks of Kelso acquired the church and lands of Dodineston, 
but from whose bounty cannot be ascertained, since the churtulary 
is silent upon the subject. As the lands of Dodineston were situ* 
ated at a considerable distance from Kelso, the abbots let them 
on the most advantageous terms. Abbot Henry, from 12^ to 
1218^ at the end of the long reign of William, granted to Regi* 
nald de Bosco, the lands of Easter Dodineston, with the half of 
the peatery of Camberuo, rendering for the same ten merks yearly. 
Abbot Herbert confirmed to Thomas, the son of Reginald, the 
same lands and peatery for the same annual rent, he performing 
to the King ^* forinsecum servitium." Abbot Hugh granted to 
Emma, the widow of Thomas, the custody of her son and heir till 
he should arrive at lawful age, for which she paid twenty pounds 
of silver. During the reign of Robert I., Abbot William granted 
to Sir William de Tushielaw the half of the manor of Wester 
Dodineston, for which he was to pay twelve merks of yearly rent. 
In 146(», Abbot Allan granted to Cuthbert Knightson a part of 
the lands of Dodineston in fee, for the yearly rent of four merks. 
Within the barony of Dodineston, the abbots appointed baron- 



894 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

bailies to eiecute their jurisdiction within their proper limits. 
The church of Duddingston appears to have been of moderate 
value, as in the ancient ^Uaxatio" it is rated at twenty* 6 ve merks. 
During the reign of Robert Bruce, the monks valued this rectory, 
according to established use, at L.20 per annum. The rectory 
continued to belong to the monks of Kelso till the Reformation, 
and the cure was served by a vicar. In August 1*296, John Corn- 
hale, the Vicar of Dodineston, swore fealty to Edward I., and re- 
ceived in return a restitution of his services from the Sheriff of 
Edinburgh. In the register of assignations for the ministers' sti- 
pends in the year 1754, MS., presented by Bishop Keith to the 
Advocates' Library, Duddingston is said to have been a joint de- 
pendence with the Castle of Edinburgh upon the Abbey of Holy- 
roodhouse. After the Reformation, the patronage of Duddiug« 
ston church, with the manor, passed through successive proprietors 
to James Earl of Abercorn, who purchased it from the Duke of 
Argyle in 1475. In the year 1630, the estate of Prestonfield was 
disjoined from the parish of St Cuthbert's, and annexed to Dud^ 
dingston. In 1631, the Presbytery of Edinburgh ordained an 
aisle to be added to the church of Duddingston, for the use of the 
proprietor and his tenants. 

The parish church, the original foundation of which cannot be 
traced, stands at Wester Duddingston, upon the south-east base 
of Arthur's Seat, and is a very ancient building, the arches and 
ornaments, when examined by an antiquary, appearing to be as an- 
tique as the days of *' Dodin." A beautiful semicircular arch di- 
vides the choir from the chancel. The church was enlarged, re- 
paired, and painted, about four years ago, and is in very good 
repair, and contains from 300 tp 400 sitters. There are no free 
sittings since the collieries were given up about forty years ago. 

The manse was built in 1805, and considerable additions were 
made to it twenty-two years ago. Both it and the office-houses 
are in excellent repair, and are most delightfully situated. 

The glebe contains six acres of arable ground of the best quality. 
The stipend is eighteen chalders, consisting of two of wheat, 
eight of barley, and eight of meal, payable according to the 
highest fiars of the county, with L.5, 12s. 1 Id. of money, and 
L.10 for communion elements. The stipend, when converted 
into money, may average, for the last five years, L.300. Glebe, 
manse, and garden, L.45 ; in whole, including money and the al- 
lowance for communion elements, L.360, 12s. lid. Number of 
communicants at the parish church, about 100. 



DUDD1N68TON. 395 

At Portobello, there is a chapel-of-ease, which was built in 
1810. The members of the congregation have the appointment 
of the clergyman, who is paid from the seat-rents. The chapel 
holds 600 sitters. Number of communicants, nearly 300. There 
is also at Portobello a chapel of the United Associate Secession, 
one of the Relief, one of the Episcopalians, one of the Indepen- 
dents, and one of the Catholics. The numbers attending each 
of these chapels cannot be accurately ascertained. 

Education. — In the parish there are two endowed schools, and 
1 1 unendowed in Portobello, including the Sessional school for 
boys. The parochial schoolmaster has the legal accommodation 
and the maximum salary. The branches taught are, Latin at 6s« 
per quarter ; English reading, ds. ; writing, Ss. 6d. ; and arithme- 
tic« 4s. Average number of scholars may be 95. He is also 
session-clerk, and clerk to the heritors. The other school is si- 
tuated at Easter Duddingston. The teacher has a free house and 
school-house, with a salary of L.5, and L. 2, 6s. tid. from the kirk- 
session. His school-fees are the same as charged at the parochial 
school ; but none of the higher branches is taught. Average 
number of scholars, 30. 

Literature. — A library was begun at Wester Duddingston in 
the year 1821 ; and at present contains more than 200 volumes. 
It is supported by a subscription of 6d. per quarter. 

Friendly Society, — A Friendly Society was established three 
years ago, and is supported by 5s. of entry money, and a quarterly 
contribution of is. 6d. Such members receive 5s. per week for 
the first five of their indisposition ; and, after that period, if not 
able to work. Is. per week during life. 

Charitable Institutions. — An hospital was founded in this pa- 
rish by Louis Cauvin, some time teacher of the French language 
in Edinburgh, and thereafter residing at Duddingston Farm, by 
trust^disposition and settlement dated the 26th day of May 1817 ; 
and by relative codicils, he assigned and conveyed to certain trustees 
his whole means and estate, amounting to nearly L.80,000, for spe- 
cial purposes therein enumerated, and mortified and appointed his 
house of Louisfield, and furniture, with its adjacent grounds, as 
*^ an hospital for the relief, maintenance, and education of the 
sons of respectable but poor teachers ; the sons of poor but ho- 
nest farmers ; whom failing, the sons of respectable master-prin- 
ters or booksellers, and the sons of respectable servants in the 

agricultural line." This settlement was explained and modified^ 

4 



396 liDlNBUROUSHIHE. 

aud the governors were incorporated by a parliameDtary statute in 

The management is vested in certain individuals nominated by 
the founder, and in the Provost of the city, the Principal and 
Professor of Humanity in the University, the Rector of the 
High School, the ministers of Duddingston, Liberton, and 
Newton, and the factor of the Marquess of Abercorn. The 
institution, which is situated near the village of Wester Dudding- 
ston, was opened on the QQih of November 1893. Twenty boys 
are maintained in it They are required, when admitted, to be 
of the age of six, and under that of eight years, and are retained 
for six years. According to the trust-settlement, they are in- 
structed in the ordinary branches of education, and also in Latin, 
Greek, French, and mathematics, and in the first principles of 
natural philosophy, chemistry, and botany. 

The strictest care and attention are paid to the comfort and hap* 
piness of the boys ; and their progress in the various branches of 
education has hitherto, in every respect, met with the approbation 
of the directors. 

Saving Bank. — There is no saving bank in this parish ; the' 
nearest is in Edinburgh. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — The poor were supported by 
voluntary contributions till the year 1832, when poor rates were 
established, the heritors paying one-half, and the tenants the other. 
The number of poor at present upon the roll is about 76, who, 
according to their necessities, receive from ds. to 6s. per month. 
There are two lunatics who are supported by the kirk-session at 
L. 20 each per per annum. The collections at the church-door 
may average lOs. per week. The assessment last year was L.400. 
Mr Kay, an architect in Edinburgh, left a few years ago the sum 
of L. 100 to the poor of this parish, under the management of the 
minister and kirk-session. Mortcloth dues 5s., and burying-ground 
charged L. 10 go to the support of the poor. No public begging 
is allowed within the bound3 of this parish. It cannot be doubted 
that the disposition among the poor to refrain from seeking pa- 
rochial relief is fast dying away, and parochial support is not now 
considered so degrading to the feelings as it was forty years ago. 
The poor, however, of this parish evince no unnecessary anxiety 
to solicit parochial aid. 

Inns and JkhotMes.-^ln Portobello there are two inns, one 

tavern, and eight spirit-shops. In the village of Joppa and itsr 

3 



DUDDINGSTON. 397 

neighbourhood, there are three 8pirit*shops, and in Wester Dud- 
dingston, there are four taverns. These last-mentioned taverns 
depend more upon the population of Edinburgh for their encou- 
ragement, than on the inhabitants of the village in which they are 
situated, and this accounts for their number. 

FtieL — Coal is universally used, and is procured in great abun* 
dance from the pits in the surrounding parishes. The price va- 
ries, according to quality, from lOs. to I2s. per ton. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
It may be remarked, that the now highly cultivated estate of 

Duddingston was much later than Prestonfield in undergoing any 
real or substantial improvement. The tenants originally possess- 
ed their land in run-ridge, or nin-dale, and resided in the villages 
of Easter and Wester Duddingston, and had access to a common, 
upon which they pastured their cattle that were kept by a common 
herd. Previous to the year 1746, there was not an instance of a 
lease ever having been granted upon the whole estate. In 1751, 
the late Earl of Abercorn began to subdivide his estate into com* 
modious farms, to build suitable farm-steadings and offioes, to en* 
elose his fields with hedges, and to improve them by draining. 
Before 1746, the noedium rent was I0s.per acre; at the time (1794) 
when the last Statistical Report was written, it averaged L.2, 2s. ; 
at present it will average L. 5, 10s. per acre. 

In 1762 the Figget lands, containing 70 acres, u|)on which 
Portobello is now built, was a perfect waste covered with furze and 
whins, and let to one of the tenants of the Duddingston estate for 
200 merks Scots, or L. 11, 2s. 2^9d. Sterling. These lands were 
sold the following year for the sum of L. 1500. The purchaser 
immediately began to improve his property, and in a few years 
after he divided it into separate lots for feus, which he granted, ac* 
cording to locality, from L. 2, 2s. and upwards per acre, by which 
he obtained in a very short time L, 7 per cent for his purchase 
money. 

This parish, with the exception of a direct carriage-road from 
Wester Duddingston to Edinburgh, enjoys every facility and ad- 
vantage which good roads, in all directions can afford. The peo- 
ple are now much better lodged, their mode 'of dressing, and liv- 
ing is greatly improved, and much more attention is paid to do- 
mestic cleanliness and comfort. 

Revised August 1848. 



PARISH OF STOW.* 

PRESBTTERT OF LAUDER, 8TNOD OF MERSB AND TBVIOTDALE. 

THE REV. DAVID WEDDELL. MINISTER. 



L — Topography amd Natural History. 
Name* — Stow, the name of the parish, appears to ha?e 
been originally employed to denote the village or kirktown, and 
the religious community connected with it The word is of Ang- 
lo-Saxon origin, signifying place or itatUnu It is from the Bishop 
of St Andrews having had a residence here, that the appropriate 
name of Stow is said to be derived. The district now called 
Galawater,f of which the greater part is included in the parish of 
Stow, was anciently named Wedal or Waedale, from the Anglo- 
Saxon words wae^ woe or sorrow, and da/, dale, on account of 
some sanguinary affray, of which no accurate account remains. 
In old writings, and still in the language of the common people^ 
the definite article is prefixed to Stow. Thus Harding, instruct- 
ing the English what districts they should overrun to ruin Scot- 
land, h&s 

*< And eke therewith the Stow of Wedale.*^ 

The parish of Stow, extending from Nettlingflat, the most 
northerly farm, where is the source of the celebrated pastoral 
stream of Gala, which gives its name to the vale through which it 
flows, continues to stretch in a south-easterly direction to the ter- 
mination of the county of Edinburgh, on the east of Galawater, 
where Caitha, the southermost farm, joins with Whitelaw, in the 
parish of Melrose, and county of Roxburgh. Opposite to this 
the county of Edinburgh is terminated on the west of Gala by 
Bowland, from which the parish stretches south-west into Selkirk- 
shire, comprehending Cadon-water, and including, as its western 
boundary in that direction, the farms of Newhall, Blackhaugh 

* Drawn up by the late incumbent, the Rot. Dr John Cormaek. 
t The same aa Owala ( Pembrokeehire,) " a Aill stream/* ftpelled alto Galebe, and 
Galue, in charters of William the Lion. Chalmers, Vol. ii. p. 969. 
X See Chalmerses Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 825, &c 



STOW. 399 

and Knows, Laidlawstiel, and TrinIee*knows. Stretching south- 
east, it includes Cadonlee, which is washed on the south by the 
river Tweed. It here joins, on the east, a part of the parish of 
Galashiels, and, turning a little northerly, takes an eastern direc- 
tion, the public road from Galashiels to Peebles constituting here 
the common boundary between the two parishes; so that the 
beautiful estate of Torwoodlee is the southermost part of the pa- 
rish of Stow on the banks of Gala. 

Extent — The length of the parish from its northern limit it 
Nettlingflat, along the new road on the east of Gala, till it passes 
Bowland Bridge and meets with Holy lee, is about 18 miles ; 
and, by avoiding the sinuosities and angles, about 16. The 
part of Hangingshaw, in the parish of Heriot, which lies between 
the streamlet on the north of the Inn and Nettlingflat, cuts off 
that farm from the rest of Stow parish, which every where else is 
continuously connected. Vaguely and generally it niTay be stated 
as 16 miles long, and nearly 4 broad; but, on ascertaining the 
actual contents of the parish, it is found to contain about 40,000 
imperial acres, or 62 square miles. The lands of Haw tree are at 
present considered the most northerly part of the parish on the 
west of Gala ; but \n our ancient records I find Kilcouter joined 
with Hawtree in paying stent or assessment. 

Boundaries, — The form of the parish bears more resemblance 
to a triangle than any other figure. Proceeding round it from 
the north by the east, we find it bounded by the parishes of Borth- 
wick and Fala, in Midlothian, by Channelkirk and Lauder, in 
Berwickshire; Melrose, in Roxburghshire; Galashiels, in Sel- 
kirkshire ; by a part of the river Tweed, separating it from Yarrow ; 
and on the west, by Innerleithen, in Peebles-shire, and Heriot, in 
Midlothian. A fourth part of the surface is in Selkirkshire, and 
the rest in the county of Edinburgh. 

The parish of Stow includes the district of Galawater, from the 
source of that stream, to within a mile and a half of the village of 
Galashiels. It is a narrow and gently winding vale, of various 
breadth, but at an average scarcely the eighth part of a mile. 
From this stripe of haughland, the ground rises into softly sloping 
hills, generally green, and many of them arable, and even culti- 
vated to the top. In some places, as at the farm-house of Wather- 
stone, the acclivity begins on either side at the water edge. The 
hill on the Craigend side exhibits an interesting subject of inves- 
tigation to the geologist. 



4oa 



EDINBUBGHSHIRB. 



According to the. authbrity of Kiiox and AiosK^ and other 
data, I would calculate the run of Galawater at Stow to be 480 
feet abo?e the level of the sea, and the position of tny thermometer 
5(M). The surveyors mentioned agree in stating the rise of the 
water at 34 feet 6 inches a mile. 

MeUorobgy. — Having kept an exact register of the thermome- 
ter without the omission of a day, beginning with February 1821 
onward, I am enabled to present the results of eighteen years' ob* 
servations oil that instrument The register having been trans- 
mitted for some years to the Royal Society of Edinburgh, the 
hours of marking are those desired by that learned body. A re« 
gister of the barometer has been kept for the same period, mark- 
ed once a day about 10 a. m. The above notices, it is presumed, 
will be found sufficiently explicit* 



Table I. — ^^onthly and Annual Averages of the Thermometer 
at the Manse of Stow, for eleven years, viz* February 1821 — 
January 1832. Elevation of the instrument above the level of 
the sea, 500 feet; distance from the sea, 20 miles. 



1821, 

1822, 
1828, 
1824, 
1625, 
1826, 
1827, 
1828, 
1829, 
1830, 
1831, 
1832, 



Aver. 

Even. 

and 

Morn 



January. 

A. M. P. M. 



88.7 

31.29 

37.74 

36 25 

30.91 

3a77 

37.25 

30.01 

32.79 

32.24 

36.177 



13^77 

30.80 

38.74 

37.45 

31.3 

8a88 

33.77 

29.80 

32.70 

33.4 

36.08 



87.76784.7540.8 



34.28 34.244 



( 34.263 



February. 

A.VL P. M. 



,39.71 

3325 

35.86 

35.80 

39.6 

82.3 

88.17337. 

87.a5 

8a50 

86.28 



89.1 

81.10 
86.89 
36.71 

88.89 



87.19 
83.92 
36.03 



36.29 85.78 
36.03 



March. 

A. M. P. M. 



86.2 

I. 
38.83136. 12 



413340 



32:0338.4186.56 

42.1240.51 

86.22 



3a 

48.1 
40. 



3422854839.9041 

35.3087.9042.21 

39.7789.96 



8042 



April. 

A.U.1p. M. 



49.9 
46.5 
48.8 



45.56 
45.5314 
44.1 
41.55 



9340. 



.0846.5 
L4846.5 



89.46 38.81 
3a88. 



I 



42.5 

41.991 

8a5 

.181 
48.5 
48.01 

L08i 
41. 
3a51 
48.46 
44.08 



44.68l41.69 
43.18 




' 



94 A. M. 

and 
81p.m. 



STOW. 



401 



1821, 
1822, 
1823, 
1824, 
1825, 
1826, 
1827, 
1828« 
1829. 
18»0, 
1881. 
1832, 



May. 




50. 

5a3 



43.1 

47.8 



June. 

A. M. p. X. 



54.2 
82. 



5ai2 47.35 

46.67 

47.38 



46.9950.16 

47.5954.05 

64.03 



51.5849.17 

51.0848.7956.66 

52.5949.4659.06 

53.:32 50.32 58.03 

51.7447.9153. 

52.1147.6159.4 



34.03 4a2 
53.13 



46.9 
54.3 



51.1747.8256.78 



49.49 



53.61 

61.28364. 

53.96 

56.36 

55.81 

51.8 

56.48 



53.79 



55.28 




September i October. 



A. M. p. M. I A. ]f . p. H. 



57. 



51.73 4748 



50. 

50.7;3 

535 



55. 
54.2 



5a 



45.06 
51.58 
5380 



53.6351.28 



52.28 
51.86 



50 53 47.7 
51.03 48.56 



53.88 



52.53 



^2.86l50.46 
51.66 



49.5 
47.9 
44.96 



47.12 
48.83 



46. 

46.7 

42.3 



43.7444.04 



50.3048.25 



47.54 
4570 
47.06 
52.14 



47.64 
46.64 



45.52 
44.441 
46.29 
51.46 



47.7046.20 
46.95 



November. December. 



A. U. P. n« 



40.18139.74 
39.93 



Aa !■• Pa JSa 




37.27 37.20 
37.23 



94 A. H. 

and 
8ip. X. 



Averages Annual 
1821. 1822. 182a 1824. 1825. 182a 1827. 182a 1829. 1830. 1831. 



45*.79 46^27 43.64 44.15 45.06 46.97 45.91 47.34 44.24 44.92 47.28 

General average of the annual averages of eleven years, 45°.5& 



Morning and evening averages of the two succeeding years 

combined : — 



1832, 
1838. 

ias4. 



Jan. Feb. 

36.66 
30.95937.505 
39.695 



Mar. 



39.89 

36.81 



April 



44.96 
4a26 



May. 



48.595 
56.1 



.1 une. 

55.215 
.315 



1555 



July. 



Aug. 



56.27 



57.42 
59.045153.74551.82 



Sept. 



54.01546.90 



Oct. I Nov. 



37.805 
46.79 39.24 



Dec. 



3^23 
38.52 



These results, combined with the former eleven years, give the 
following average of thirteen years : — 

EDINBURGH. C C 



402 



EDINBURGHSHIRE. 



Jan. 


Feb. 


Mar. 
38.36 


April 
43.8 


May. 
51.896 


June. July. 
55.27 58.141 


Aug. 


Sept. Oct. Mov. Dea 
52.496 47.546 da991 37.996 


14.973536.7316 


55.521 



Morning and Evening Averages of five more successive years 
combined : — 



Jan. 



1834, 

1835,34.44137.863 

1836,36.5334.43137 

1837,33.40136.71 

1838,27.34 

1839,32.85 



Aver. 32.9 



Feb. 



34.50 



M.-r. 



38.18l41.2l 

.28 

.54 

34.97 



25.3535.50 



36.9 



April 

42.94 
43.82 
40.92 
37.50 
3a78| 



40.79 



May 



18.56 



June. 



.54 
55.64 



53. 
47.69 
50.68 55.05 
47.3656.25 
46.7354.42 



49.1255.58 



July. 

60.17 
56.32 
55.01 
59.87 
57.04 



58.08 



Aug. 



56.65 



Sept. 



52.69147.68 
51.17 



Oct 



57.20 

59.48 

54.55 4a93,43.74 

36.8350.3247.38137 

55.2l|51.60 45.62 36.13 



5a94 45.60 40.42 



Nov. 



40.71 

43.6240.42 

37. ht 

.75 



Dec. 

40821 

06.34 
39.85 
37.95 



dad5 



These averages of five years, combined with the former thir- 
teen, give the following averages of eighteen years : — 

Jan. Feb. Mar. April. May. June. July. Ang. Sept. Oct Nov. Dec 
3a9d 35^ 37.63 42^ 50.25 55.42 58.11 56.08 51.71 46!57 ^Ito 38JI7 

General average of the annual averages of eighteen years, 
45°.455. 

It appears from the table that the average of all the annual 
averages, evening and morning, for eleven years, is 45''58 ; that the 
lowest annual average is that of 1823, being 4d.°64, and the high- 
est that of 1828, being 47.^34, exhibiting a difference between the 
extremes of 8.^7. During the last eight months of 1824 observa- 
tions were taken at 10 a. m« and 10 p. m., which gave a daily ave- 
rage above the prescribed hours, of .827, and during the whole of 
the months of 1825, a daily average of .61. The great variation 
of temperature in our climate cannot appear from monthly avera- 
ges, and, therefore, it may be worth noting, that in the coldest 
month, as December and January, the temperature has frequently 
been found to exceed that of the. coldest days of July, the hottest 
month. Thus 10th December 1826, 11 p.m. 50"* and 7th January 
1827, 5P; and 8th January 51^5; and 1st July 1821, 42^«5; 
16th June 1 82d,-*hard frost that blackened the potato shaws on 
the haugh land, but did not injure those on the higher ground, as 
the masses of exhalated, frozen, affected what lay in the range of 
the water. The greatest extremes of cold and heat, I have mark* 
ed are both in 1826, 9th January, 8'*.6; and 4th July, 82^25. 






STOW. 



403 



Yrs. 



Barometrical Table, February 1821-January 1832. 

Jan. Feb. March. April. May. . June. 



1821, 




29.95 


29.454 


29.482 


29.713 


30.042 


1822, 


29.945 


29.889 


29.684 


30.142 


29.948 


29.975 


1823, 


29.691 


29.294 


29.617 


29.752 


29.738 


29.797 


1824, 


29.812 


29.710 


29.664 


29.777 


29.915 


29.864 


1825, 


29980 


29.934 


29.99 


29.895 


29.919 


29.837 


1826, 


29.930 


29.595 


29.857 


29.756 


29.015 


30.191 


1827, 


29.673 


30.021 


29.403 


29.845 


29.653 


29.763 


1828, 


29.777 


29.680 


29.788 


29.640 


29.839 


29.879 


1829, 


29.812 


29.95 


29.816 


29.433 


29.92 


29.926 


1830, 


29.997 


29.70 


29.851 


29.60 


29.78 


29.677 


1831, 


29.82 


29.66 


29.719 


29.722 


29.91 


29.839 


1832, 


29.833 












Aver. 


29.842 


29.76 


29.709 


29.737 


29.802 


29.807 


Yrs. 


July. 
29.767 


Aug. 


Sept 
29.63 


Oct 


Nov. 


Dec. 


1821, 


29.792 


29.676 


29.508 


29. 199 


1822, 


29.666 


29.697 


29.859 


29.499 


29 412 


29.908 


1823, 


29.777 


29.685 


29.766 


29.603 


29.939 


29.463 


1824, 


29.855 


29.936 


29.764 


29.525 


29.354 


29.354 


1825, 


30.975 


29.823 


29.737 


29.736 


29.512 


29.43 


1826, 


29.855 


2982 


29.819 


29.722 


29.743 


29.703 


1827, 


29.929 


29.953 


29.882 


29.696 


29.888 


29.53 


1828, 


29.623 


29.752 


29.877 


29.879 


29.716 


29.663 


1829, 


29.677 


29.764 


29.606 


29.859 


29.889 


30.039 


1830, 


29.819 


29.687 


29.572 


80.148 


29.60 


29,573 


1831, 


29.900 


29.859 


29.835 


29.612 


29.66 


29.938 


1832, 















Aver. 29.814 29.796 29.758 29.709 29.758 29.605 

Mean of 1 32 consecutive months, or eleven whole years, 29^.763. 

Hydrography. — The most prominent object under this head is 
Gala Water, the rise of which, between the fifteenth and sixteenth 
mile stone from Edinburgh, has been already noticed. Heriot 
Water falls into it about two miles from its source, and nearly at 
right angles to it. 

Immediately below Crookston, the Ermit, a small trouting 
stream, falls into Gala from the east. Augmented by several 
nameless rills and streamlets. Gala passes on about six miles more, 
till, at the Torsonce Inn, it receives the rivulet of Cockham, and, 
a quarter of a mile farther on, the brook of Penniwhigate, flowing 
through the village of Stow. A mile below this the Gala is in- 
creased by the Water of Lugate, — the most considerable as well 
as the most rapid of its tributary streams. No farther increase 
takes place, till the waters and the name of Gala are lost in thd 
Tweed, a little below Abbotsford. 

Of Lugate Water it may be stated, that, according to tradition, 
it was once called Ewes Water, a name still retained by one of the 



404 EDINBUROH^IRE. 

streamlets, by which it is fed among the hills. In our old records, 
the name is spelt Lawgate. 

The only other stream deserving of notice is Cadon Water, 
which, uniting at the sheep-farm of Cadon-head several brooklets 
that rise among the high hills to the north of it, pursues a south- 
easterly course, and, at the farm of Cadon-lee, falls into the 

Tweed. 

Geology. — There is nothing of peculiar interest in the geology 
of the parish. The only rocks which occur are greywacke, slate- 
clay, and clay- slate, except at the base of Windlestrae Law, where 
red porphyry is seen crossing Byrehope Burn. There are none 
of the more valuable minerals in the parish. Calc-spar, quartz, 
and steatite are found, but in small quantities. A single specimen 
of iron pyrites was found in a quarry, near the twenty-fifth mile- 
stone from Edinburgh. 

There is a chalybeate spring close to the ruins of Ewes Cas- 
tle. Upon analysis, it was found to contain no mineral substance 
but the carbonate of iron, and that in so small a quantity as to be 
useless for medical purposes. 

Zoology. — Gala Water still affords trouts in sufficient quantities 
for the amusement of the angler, notwithstanding the nefarious 
practice, so common of late, of ** netting" or *^ harrying the wa- 
ter.'^ The trouts found in Gala, including par and sea trout, are, 
' I would say, of six different kinds, distinguished by the variety 
of their spots and shades, and the colour of their flesh, as red or 
white. In length they vary from 6 to 14 inches, though a burn 
trout, with red flesh, 17 inches, weighing 1^ lb., and sea trout 21 
inches, and upwards of 2 lb. in weight, have been occasionally 
caught from August to November. The trouts are good from the 
middle of March to the beginning of November ; but in their 
highest perfection during May, June, and July. 

The trouts of Gala are all clear and bright in the scales, and 
easily distinguishable from those of its mossy tributaries. 

Otters have been seen and killed both on Lugate and Gala. 
A young man in the village of Stow killed two of them ; and there 
are some facts which I have ascertained, regarding their natural 
history, which differ considerably from the common accounts, and 
therefore deserve notice in this place. One killed about the end 
of 1831 in a pool in Lugate, a little above its junction with Gala, 
was a young male, measuring from the tip of the nose to the inser- 
tion of the tail, 2 feet 8 inches, tail 15i inches. The other, a 

4 



STOW. 405 

full-grown female, measured from the tip of the nose to the in- 
sertion of the tail, 3 feet ] inch, and the tail 18 inches. It was 
killed in a pool about five feet deep, below the ford at Pirn, early 
in November 1632 ; and had been then suckling young. This 
is entirely at variance with Buffon's account of the otter^s sea- 
son of bringing forth, which, he says, is early in spring; but 
agrees with that of Mr Lots of the Academy at Stockholm, and 
the attested observation of Dr Goldsmith, who, though in general 
a slender authority in natural history, seems to have paid consi- 
derable attention to the character and habits of this animal. The 
size of the above-mentioned female, however, is one*third more 
than he states to be the usual length. Colour brown, and other- 
wise agreeing with the common descriptions. 

The mode in which these otters were killed, shows the great dif- 
ficulty of penetrating their skin. They were literally drowned, 
being pressed down to the bottom of the pool for six or seven mi- 
nutes with a leister (as it is commonly called in the district), 
which is a species of sharp-barbed trident (generally, however, 
with four prongs), employed in killing salmon. Notwithstanding 
the pressure employed, and the time of its continuance, not the 
slightest impression was made on the hide. That an amphibious 
animal should have been so soon drowned, may appear strange ; 
but it is to be remembered that its death was occasioned not 
merely by its being kept so long under water, but by suffocation, or 
something approaching to it, caused by the pressure of the ** leis- 
ter," by which it was, as it were, pinned to the bottom of the pool, 
80 as to cause extreme difficulty, if not impossibility, of respira- 
tion. These otters are now preserved in the Museum of the Uni- 
versity of Edinburgh. 

Ermine or Stoat — A beautiful specimen of this rare animal was 
caught by the shepherd of Bowshank in February 1837, with the 
assistance of his dog, in the neighbourhood of the woods of Bow- 
land. Length from the tip of the snout to the insertion of the tail 
10 inches, tail 4 inches, including the tuft, which is 1^ inch. Co- 
lour, white, except the tuft,. which is a beautiful black. Through 
the kindness of Mr Brockie, tenant of Bowshank, the writer of 
this article has been enabled to present this specimen to the Mu- 
seum of Natural History in the University of Edinburgh. 

The resemblances between this animal and the weasel are so 
great, that some have considered them as of the same species. This, 
however, appears not to be the case. Bnffon says that the ermine 



406 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

is ** two inches longer than the largest weasel/' One common 
and curious characteristic of both is, that neither of them eat ani- 
mal food, till it be in a state of putrescence. 

Botany, — Woodroof, (Asperula tetrandria monogynxa)^ a rare 
plant in many places, is found in abundance in the Torsonce plan- 
tations, and probably in other parts of the parish. 

White clover ( Trifolium repens) seems to be everywhere indi- 
genous in this quarter. Where heath has been burnt, it is seen to 
spring up with the young grass. Where a ^^ lime shell" (burnt 
limestone) has accidentally fallen among strong heather, and burnt 
it down, there in a little time we find a spot of verdure abounding 
with white clover. It is still more remarkable that, in a marsh 
that has been thoroughly drained, this plant immediately ap- 
pears. 

Forests and Plantations. — We have undoubted evidence that, at 
a considerably remote period, there had been extensive forests be* 
tween Wedel or the Galawater district, and Lauderdale. Not a 
tree is now to be seen ; but we have recent evidences of their for* 
mer existence. In draining a little piece of moss in the Hill glebe, 
upwards of twenty years ago, I found several fragments of trees in 
good preservation. Mr Borthwick of Crookston is in possession 
of a piece of oak which must have been part of a large tree found 
in a moss at Hareshaw-head, in the farm of Allanshaws, on the 
east of Selmoor. 

The part of this parish which lies in the county of Selkirk forms 
a portion of Ettrick Forest. 

In the whole parish, I find that there are 950 acres under wood, 
and by adding some sheep " stells" and other clumps that may 
have been omitted, the whole may amount, in round numbers, to 
1000 acres, or nearly one- fortieth part of the whole. Many of 
our hill tracks would be greatly improved, in beauty and value, by 
stripes of plantation judiciously laid out Some estates are suffi* 
ciently planted both to please the eye and afford shelter; and on 
others, considerable progress has been made of late years. Under 
one or other of these characters may be specified, Torwoodlee^ 
Bowland, Torsonce, Pirn, Symington, Torquhan, Burnhouse, 
Pirntaiton, and Crookston. 

AH kinds of forest trees are found in the older woods. Some 
remarkably fine Scotch firs, about eighty years of age, are to be 
seen on old Torwoodlee, and a few between Torsonce Inn and 
Stow. There is no sort of timber to which the soil of this dis- 



STOW, 407 

trict does not seem to be congenial. The oak may be mentioned 
as found particularly thriving. 

Remarkable Trees. — Of older trees on the same property, the 
following may be noticed : Circumference taken three feet from 
the ground : Ash, branches extending 86^ feet by 84, circumfe* 
rence, 9 feet 10 inches; Scotch fir, 7 feet 4 inches; elm, 8 feet 
6 inches ; willow, 9 feet 5 inches ; spruce, 7 feet 3 inches ; oak, 
8 feet ; yew, clean stem, of 6 feet 2 inches ; circumference at 
ground, 6 feet, and at top, 4 feet 9 inches. The most remark- 
able of all is a plane, or sycamore, at Old Torwoodlee, which, 
18 inches from the ground, gives a circumference of 14 feet 9 
inches. In 1798, this tree is mentioned by Dr Douglas* as then 
measuring 13 feet 7 inches, and two clefts, one 9 feet 4 inches, 
and the other 9 feet 1 inch. These clefts I found (August 18^31) 
had increased to 9 feet 9 and 9 feet 7 inches. There are five 
horse chestnuts on the road side, immediately below the church, 
whose size and beauty generally attract the attention of travellers. 

There is a hawthorn tree in the manse garden, which is un« 
questionably the finest, though not the largest, I ever saw. The 
clean stem to the first cleft is 7^ feet; circumference at bottom, 
4 feet 3 inches ; at top, 3 feet 4 inches ; whole height, 27 feet, 
spreading over a circular space of which the diameter is equal 
to the height. 

Etfrick Forest — As a fourth part of the surface of the parish 
of Stow lies in Selkirkshire, or Ettrick Forest, the following facts, 
communicated by a friend, whose knowledge and accuracy are un- 
questionable, may be found appropriate as well as interesting. 

Torwoodlee estate is wholly situate in what was anciently called 
the " Lordship of Ettrick Forest," and formed part of that tract 
of country in which the Kings of Scotland followed the sports of 
the field. Belonging in property to the Crown, and thus deno- 
minated a royal forest, it was appropriated by the successive mo- 
narchs to their occasional visits for the enjoyment of the chase. 
While, however, this was the chief object of retaining the district 
in forestry, and the royal visits being only occasional, it does not 
appear that a tract of country so considerable (being about twenty- 
seven miles in length and sixteen in breadth) was allowed to re- 
main altogether unproductive. The lands were let out, accord- 
ingly, on leases, at very moderate rents, to the different adjoining 

* Agricultural Surrey of Selkirkshire, p. 2^ 



408 EDINBURGHSHIRE. « 

proprietors, who, in consequence, were called kindly tenants of 
the Crown. These paid their rents either into the Royal Ek- 
cbequer or to such donators, as they were styled, as had obtained 
grants of them. In progress of time, however, the custom of re- 
taining such large districts of country in forestry 'gradually fell 
into disuse, and the kindly tenants receiyed from the Crown feudal 
charters of the lands they previously held as tenants, while their 
former rents were converted into annual feu-duties, payable as be- 
fore. 

It appears probable, from the locality of Ettrick Forest, as 
nearly adjoining the English border, and its liability to inroads, 
and consequently its insecurity, that the converting of the former 
leases into rights of a more permanent and valuable nature to the 
occupants, might be deemed a measure both of prudence and of 
convenience, as the burden of defending the -district against an 
enemy so near and so troublesome, was transferred from the Crown 
to the private possessors. It was in this way, it appears, that the 
greater part of the estates in Ettrick Forest was originally ac- 
quired. The number of those who at present hold titles thus 
obtained, is 83.* Of these, the Duke of Buccleuch holds about a 
fourth of the whole in value, and in point of territory about a third. 
Next to His Grace, in order, Mr Pringle of Torwoodlee ; Mr 
Scott of Gala ; and the family of Philiphaugh, or those deriring 
from them, possess the largest portions. The feu-duties of these 
lands are now collected by the Crown Chamberlain, and paid by 
him into the Exchequer at Edinburgh. The whole rental of the 
forest amounts to L.235, 38. 7i%d. annually. 

The family of Torwoodlee are not in possession of any very 
ancient title-deeds, as the charter- chest was carried off during the 
persecution of the Covenanters (of whom the distinguished and 
noble-minded George Pringle, afterwards to be mentioned, was 
one) by General Drummond, to whom the forfeited estate was 
given. The title-deeds were not wholly recovered, when the act 
of Rehabitation restored the family to their paternal property. 
The oldest feudal title, in Torwoodlee's charter-chest, is a charter 
from James VL, dated i6th October 1587, which proceeds upon 
the narrative that the family has possessed these lands '* beyond 
all memory of man" {post memoriam kominum). There exists 
also a tack of the lands of Craigend (a little above the village of 

* Befera tbe year 1502, *• the Unds within this forest had been divided into thirty 
farms, yielding L.1875^ 14s. Soots.**— ChalmenL 



STOW, 409 

Stow) grwatedj in 1540, to George Pringle of Torwoodlee, and 
Margaret Crighton, his spouse, by Cardinal Beaton, as Arch- 
bishop of St Andrews, within whose diocese the lands were situ- 
ate.* This Margaret Crighton was daughter of Sir William 
Crighton, then Secretary of State. This and other things show 
that the family of Torwoodlee must, at this period, have attained 
to considerable rank and fortune. 

By grants of ** oaks" and *< harts," &c, made by Edward I. in 
1291, &c, we find that the forest must have been a very inviting 
scene to the lovers of the chase, and that its woods were very 
valu&ble, corresponding to the description :— 

*' Ettrick Forest is a fair forest. 

In it grows many a semelie trie ; 
The hart, the hynd, the roe, the doe» 

And of a' beastes great plentie.'* 

Adjoining to what was called (by way of eminence) ^* The Fo- 
rest," were the smaller forests of Traquair and that on Gala; 
but all of them appear to have been denuded of trees before 1649. 
The English Edward L, in the exercise of sovereignty in this 
quarter, gave the keeping of the forest to Aymer de Vallence, 
Earl of Gloucester, in 1304. For other matters of curiosity and 
interest, we must refer to Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol. ii., pp. 975- 
981. 

II. — Civil History. 
The history of this district, as a place of importance,' is carried 

so far hack as the days of King Arthur, in the early part of the 
sixth century. We are told that fragments of the real cross 
brought from the Holy Land by that monarch, were preserved with 
great veneration in the Virgin Mary's church of Wedale. " Nen- 
nius or his interpolator, Samuel, pledges himself," says Turner,f 
*' that the fragments of the cross brought by Arthur, were kept 
in Wedale, six miles from Mailros." St Mary's church referred 
to, was situate fully half a mile below the present church, imme- 
diately underthe public road, where, on the estate of Torsonce, a 
part of one of the walls, three feet thick, may still be seen built in 
with a common drystone dike. A little above it, is a very fine per- 
ennial spring, known by the name of the *^ Lady's well ;" and a 
huge stone, recently removed in forming the new road, but now 

* Tack of '* Cragend ^rt ye pertinents Ivand in our barony of the Stow, Twad- 
dale, and regalitie of Saoctandrews** for <* fyree years,** and *< to y' longer livg of 

Jr"*" Rent threttein pundis sax shillings and aucht pennies, usuale money of Scot- 
and ;** that is^ L.1, 28. 2,«,d. Sterling for what is now about L.400 Sterling, 
t Hist of Anglo-Saxons, i. 286. 



410 EDINBUBQHSHIRE. 

broken to pieces, used to be pointed out as impressed. with the 
print of the Virgin Mary's foot, on occasion of one of her desceDts 
to visit this favoured sanctuary.* 

The extensive forests already mentioned, as extending between 
Wedale and Lauderdale, were held in right of common pasturage 
by the Lords of the adjoining manors, among whose herdsmen, as 
might be expected in those rude times, many disputes arose. ^* lo 
1 184," says Chalmers, (Vol. ii. 153,) '< was settled by William the 
Lion, assisted by his bishops and barons, a pertinacious contro- 
versy which had long existed between -the monks of Melrose, and 
the men of Wedale upon the Gala Water, with regard to two ob- 
jects of great importance in that age, pannaffe and piutura^e under 
the several proprietors. This settlement was emphatically called 
tJie peace of Wedale.*^ This peac^, however, appears to have been 
often violated, and sometimes in circumstances, and to an extent» 
that even the ferocity of the age would scarcely have led us to an^ 
ticipate. At no distant period, the monks of Melrose, including 
the abbot himself, appear to have taken a very savage part in these 
ever«recurring contests. Violating the peace of Wedale^ they at** 
tacked some house of the Bishop of St Andrews there, and mur- 
dered one ecclesiastic, and wounded many others. In consequence 
of this, the abbot, John of Ederham, and many of his conventuals, 
were excommunicated by a provincial council which sat at Perth 
in 1269. 

The importance of the church of Wedale is farther indicated 
by the fact, that in the ancient taxation it is rated at seventy marks, 
while that of Borthwick is forty, and the rectory of Gala, before 
its junction with Soltra or Soutra, is L.6, ids. 4d. The privilege 
of sanctuary also, was confirmed by charter to the church of We* 
dale by King Malcolm IV. In August 1296, Edward, vicar of 
this church, swore fealty to Edward II., and obtained the restitu* 
tion of his rights in return.f 
. Church Records, — The minutes of the kirk-session of Stow go 

* Among tbe curiosities shown at Abbotsford, and illustrative of the text, is an 
old hat, with this inscription : ^' Hat worn by tbe burgesses of Stowe at their instal- 
mentf a village beloved by King Arthur.** Upon inquiry about this reli<|ue of by- 
gone and better days, I am told that it came into Sir Walter^ possession about 
twenty years aga It had been originally a cocked hat, and used to be kept in a tri- 
angular box, which my informant tells me was sold along with some furniture of the 
last custodier, whose negligence regarding so interesting a deposit must eicite our 
surprise. It is well that it reach^ its present destination, as otherwise it must 
ere now have irrecoverably disappeared. 

•f Sec authorities in Chalmers, Vol ii. 826. ^ ~ .. . . . 



STOW. 411 

so far back as November 1626, and those of them which may now 
be called ancient, consist of three small folio volumes, densely, and 
generally speaking beautifully written. The first volume extends 
from November 1626 to June 1650; Vol. ii. June 1650 to No- 
vember 1682; Vol. iii. June 1690 to the end of 1709. The 
fourth volume, which we may regard as embracing a modern pe- 
riod, begins with 1710, and ends with 1725. From this period, 
the unbroken line of sessional transactions continues, though com- 
paratively barren of interest, and meagre in detail. Our most an- 
cient register of births and marriages is contained in a volume re- 
covered some years ago, by the Rev. Dr Lee, who presented it 
to the kirk-session of his native parish. Births in this volume, 
6th July 1626, to dOth October 1667; marriages, 9th January 
1641 to 1st December 1671, — leaving a chasm in the register^of 
marriages from 4th June 1665, to 1st June 1666, a year of much 
suffering and persecution in this parish and district. With this 
exception, these registers are complete in so far as insertions have 
been made. That of baptisms, however, gives but a very imper-* 
feet view of the number of births in the parish. 

In 1650, July 14, the session, considering the dangers of the 
time, ordained the money in the poor's box to be taken out and 
committed to the box-master. From November of the same year 
till January of the next inclusive, there was ^* no session keepit 
because of the great troubles of the times." 18th May 1651, ** the 
pillar" (where penitents stood) ^* being pulled down by the In- 
glishmen, and burnt, a forme to be sett before the pulpit," &c. 
*^ The harden gown" (sackloth) ^* taken away by the Inglishmen." 
In 1652, application was made to the session to contribute some* 
thing for two women, upon whose corns the English army, upon 
their march into England, '^ did leigar." The answer was, that 
'* this parish could not," having been itself frequently plundered 
of late. 

Without entering farther into particulars, we may have some 
notion, from these instances, of the sufferings of this parish and dis- 
trict, during Cromwell's usurpation. But greater evils awaited the 
land, in an event which was hailed witn a nation's joy; and for 
which was appointed in this parish (14th June 1660) ^< a day of 
thanksgiving for the mercies bestowed on the land in calling home 
of the king and restoring him to his just right in peace." How 
soon this joy was turned into mourning appears on the face of the 
record a few months after. From 1661 to 1664, almost no busi- 



413 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ness, and often for six weeks together, nothing is mentioned but 
the collection. In July 1665, as we have seen, the minister re- 
signed, and on the 4th of March 1666, we have these words, ^ the 
qlke day Mr Robert Key, lait minister att Dumferline, was pre* 
sentit to the kirke of Stow and his edicke read." This was the 
first of the ** curates" in this parish. In July 1680, we have a si- 
milar appointment of Mr Andrew Naughly, minister at <* Kirkud- 

break/* 

This last person survived the Revolution. During this period, 

tradition says that most of the children were carried to Lauder for 
baptism. While the pious remnant met as Providence permitted 
them, we are told by tradition, that they frequently assembled on the 
hillside above the village of Stow, at a place called the CrosS" 
Cleughs. 

The sedulousness and labour with which the duties of elders 
were then performed, would seem almost incredible in these times. 
During the earlier periods, there were often two, three, and even 
more meetings of session during the week, besides the fixed one 
on the Lord's Day. So early as ten o'clock on a Monday mom* 
ing, we find meetings attended by Torwoodlee, and other elders 
from the distance of five, six, or more miles. The cases of va- 
ried immorality, and particularly of uncleanness, were in number 
and aggravation quite appalling. The people were still but 
emerging out of Popery, the dregs of which were as yet only pas- 
sing away, under the influence of a purer and more purifying 
faith« In November 1626, we find fifteen new members of ses- 
sion ordained, making up the whole number, including the minis- 
ter, to twenty-one, and in the same month they enact ^* the salu- 
tary precaution that none within the parish shall admit strangers 
as tenants, or sub-tenants, cottars, or sub-cottars, who may be un- 
der scandal in other parishes without a testimonial of their ^* ho* 
nest lyffe and conversation from the minister and sessione of the 
pariochin wtin the qlk any shall have dwelt." Great caution was 
used also in giving testimonials, which always was a sessional deed. 
When an application to this efiect was made, the decision generally 
was " delay till next meeting."* 

* As a feature of character that long survived Covenanting times— a feature that, 
in the light and thoughtless, may excite a smile, but which will fix the attention of tb« 
moral investigator, I think it worthy of being stated here, that, previously to a young 
man being admitted as a suitor to one of the daughters of a family, ** the books*' were 
set before him at the hour of domestic devotion which he was required to conduct. 
This interesting and characteristic custom was raeolioned to me by an aged gentle- 
man, still alive, as practised in his younger day*. 



STOW. 413 

The session records a£ford a continued illustration of the remark 
concerning the moral efficacy of the doctrines of the Reformation. 
At first, there generally appeared several persons qvery Sabbath 
for the sin of uncleanness (the individual appearing three times for 
the same offence). For one aggravated case of adultery and for* 
nication in 1704, there were no less than twenty-two appearances 
made in the place of repentance. The cases of scandal gradually 
decrease till we come to the gratifying fact, that not one occurs, 
from llth March 1705 till 28th July 1707. During this period,, 
as at other times, it is frequently recorded, that the minister in- 
quired of the elders *^ if they knew of any case of scandal it their 
bounds ;" but " no delations were made."* 

There is frequent mention in our records of the ^* Baillie of 
Regality,'' who appears to have been invested with very consider- 
able powers, to the great benefit of the village and neighbourhood* 
I have not been able to ascertain when this office ceased ; but it 
is of great importance that it should be restored.f 

Eminent Characters. — George Pringle of Torwoodlee was the 
representative of an ancient aud influential family. This gen- 
tleman was distinguished for his piety, decision of character, and 
the heroism with which he suffered in the cause of civil and reli- 
gious liberty. He had signalized himself by his loyalty to the 
exiled family during Cromweirs usurpation, and his good service 
was not unknown to Charles. It appears, indeed, to have given 
him some influence in the early part of that reign, for we find 
Walter Pringle of Greenknow, in the parish of Gordon, ascribing 
a short delay of his banishment to Elgin, to this gentleman, whom 
he designates ^^ my brother, Torwoodlee." This was in January 
1065. But it wa» impossible that a man of such piety and patrio- 

* There occun, indeed, two or three iii8tance« of Sabbath-breaking during that 
time, which were then visfted with a public rebuke. One of these cases was that of 
two men and a woman spending the time of the afternoon service in one of their 
bouses ** drinking a chopin of ale.** If this appears to some a comparatively venial 
offence, what will they think of the following ? It was usual to pay on the Lord*8 
day certain dues to the precentor and church oflScer on the baptism of children. On 
Sabbath. 2J5th March 1699, the session appoints, '< that, upon complaint by the pre- 
centor or church oflScer, or the fact being otherwise notor, they will be repute and 
censured at Sabbath'breakert,*^ who offer such dues on the Lord's day. 

t The powers of the " Baillie of Regalitie*' appear to have been succeeded by the 
institution of a ** Commissary Court** held in the village of Stow. Having conversed 
repeatedly with the oldest inhabitant of the village, whose accurate recollections] go 
fiurthest back, I find that he remembers a ** Commissary Court,** held by a Baillie 
Henderson from Lauder, constituted in name of ** Charles Larl of Hopeton, heritable 
baillie of this regality," and ** holding off the Commissary of Dunkeld.** He recol- 
lects being repeatedly present, when a youth, and hearing *' the Court fenced** in the 
above words. This must have been subsequent to 1770. We know that, till the Re- 
volution 1688, this was a church regality, subject to the Archbishop of St Andrews. 



414 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

tism could long remain, without being hiofiself involved by the mea- 
sures of excessive severity that were adopted. 

The first case now known, in which Mr Pringle took a direct 
part in the cause of his suffering country, was that of providing 
for the safety of the Earl of Argyle, when that nobleman had 
escaped from prison after the sentence of death pronounced 
against him by the notorious Duke of Lauderdale in Decern- 
. ber 1681. << When the Earl got out," says Crookshank (Hist* 
/.'•.Vol. ii. p. 123,) " he rode without stopping to a country alehouse, 
•/• ' near the house of Mr George Pringle of Torwoodlee, who, by 
concert, was to meet him there, and conduct him to Mr William 
Veitch's house in Northumberland." From this period especially 
Mr Pringle was most cruelly treated, ^' notwithstanding," says the 
same historian, *^ all his services to the King against Cromwell." 
In the summer of 1684, he was fined in L.2000 Sterling. **' When 
the pretended plot" (the Rye Plot) "was trumped up," he was 
sought after, as concerned in it. Eight days after his escape, his 
son, a youth of about sixteen years of age, was carried to Edin- 
burgh, where he was imprisoned three months, although no charge 
had been laid against him. On account of the crowded state of 
the prison, he was then admitted to bail for L.5000 Sterling. To 
the farther imprisonment of this youth in Blackness Castle for three 
months, the forfeiture of his father's property (in a few years re- 
stored to himself,) and the withholding from his mother the life- 
rent due to her by contract of marriage, we must here be satisfied 
with a mere allusion. After the failure of Argyle's attempt, Mr 
Pringle escaped to Holland ; and, in the convention of estates 
called by the Prince of Orange, he, with Sir William Scott, 
younger of Harden, voted the crown to our William and Mary, 
whose names are so auspiciously associated with whatever is glo- 
rious in our national history, both civil and ecclesiastical. 

Mr Pringle lived to see the triumph of the cause of religion 
and liberty, for which he had so nobly suffered, and closed his 
bright earthly career in July 1689, in the fifty-ninth year of his 
age. His lady's courage and piety, — her serenity and equanimity 
under all her sufferings, — showed her to be worthy of such a 
husband. 

William Russel, LL.D., the celebrated historian of ^ Ancient 
and Modern Europe," and of other able and popular works, was the 
eldest son of Alexander Russel and Christian Bruntain. He was 
born at Windydoors, in that part of the parish which lies in Et- 



STOW. 415 

trick Forest, 17th November 1740. His parentage was very're- 
spectable. About 1743, his father removed to Elibank on Tweed- 
side, which occasioned his being sent, at a suitable age, to the pa- 
rish school of Innerleithen, where he received the rudiments of a 
classical education. In 1 756, he went to Edinburgh, and, after 
ten months' application to writing and arithmetic, was bound ap- 
prentice to a bookseller and printer. In 1767, he went to Lon- 
don, and, after many disappointments, became corrector of the 
press to Mr Strahan, afterwards the King's printer. While thus 
occupied, he published selections of poems, &c., and other works 
of light reading. In 1779, he published his ^^ History of America." 
In the same year, he gave to the world the two first volumes of his 
** History of Modern Europe," and the other three in 1784. In 
1792, he received the honorary degree of LL.D. from the Uni- 
versity of St Andrews; and, in 1793, his two volumes of ^ Ancient 
Europe" were published. Soon afterwards, he died at Knottyholm, 
near Langholm, where he had resided since his marriage in 1787, 
at the age of fifty-three. He left behind him several tragedies 
and other poetical works, as well as some unfinished productions, 
of which the most important was a history of the reign of George 
III. to the conclusion of the American war, a work in which he 
was engaged at the time of his death. 

Brigadier^General Alexander Walker of Bowlandw^s the eldest 
son of the Rev. William Walker, minister of the parish of Colles- 
sie in Fife. He received the rudiments of a classical education in 
St Andrews. In the East India Company's service he spent thir- 
ty years of active duty. In 181 1, he returned from India, and soon 
after married Miss Barbara Montgomery, daughter of the late 
Lord Chief Baron of that name. He then settled on his property 
of Bowland, purchased for him some years previously to his leav- 
ing India. With little interruption, he continued to reside here 
till towards the autumn of 1822, when, having been appointed go- 
vernor of St Helena, he left this country for London, preparatory 
to his embarkation for St Helena. From that island he returned 
in the summer of 1828, a good deal shattered in health. On the 
5th March 1831, hp died in the 67th year of his age, after two 
days illness. 

- His appointment at Baroda enabled him to put the financial af- 
fairs of that district on a footing that was highly advantageous to 
the natives, at the same time that it saved many thousand pounds 
sterling annually to the Company. It is to be hoped that this ser- 



416 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

vice will yet be recognized in a more substantial form than has hi- 
therto been done* What the residence at Baroda, however^ put in 
the power of- this venerable character, and what he valued above 
all the gold of India, was the means of suppressing the revolting 
and abominable practice of female infanticide in Guzerat A de- 
tailed narrative of his successful labours in this generous cause 
will be found in an account of them which I published in 1815, 
•—a work now many years out of print. 

His last years were intently occupied in preparing some of his 
MSS. for the press. Perhaps the best use of them that can now 
be made, would be to incorporate whatever in them is new and pe- 
culiar, with a life of the excellent author. 

James Borthwick ofSiowj a cadet of the Crookston family, prac- 
tised as a physician in Edinburgh, and is here noticed as having 
occasioned the disjunction of the corporation of Surgeons from that 
of the Barbers, which previously formed one corporation. 

The Rev, DrJokn Lee^ now Principal of the University of Edin- 
burgh, and Principal Clerk of the General Assembly of the Church 
of Scotland, one of the Chaplains in Ordinary to Her Majesty in 
Scotland, &c., was born at Torwoodlee Mains in this parish. 

iMnd'Owners* — The present land-owners of the parish of Stow, 
in the order of their valued rents, are the following : Alexander 
Mitchell of Stow ; James Pringle, Esq. of Torwoodlee ; John 
Borthwick, Esq. of Crookston ; William Stewart Walker, Esq. of 
Bowland ; Adam Fairholm, Esq. of Chapel ; Alexander Pringle^ 
Esq. of Whitebank, M.P. ; George Thomson, Esq. of Bumhouse ; 
Hubert Dundas, Esq. of Arniston ; James Murray, Esq. of Craig* 
end ; William Colvin, Esq. of Michelston ; Archibald Christie^ 
Esq. of Baberton ; Hugh Watson, Esq. of Torsonce, a minor ; 
General John Pringle, of Symington ; Sir John Pringle, of Sti- 
chell, Bart ; William Patterson, Esq. Little Caspair ; Captain 
Robert Tait, R. N., of Pirn. 

Jntiguities^^^There are remains of ancient Roman camps on the 
farms of Muirhouse, Stagehall, Craigend, Watherstone, Nether- 
shiels, Pimtaiton, and Hawtree, &c. They vary in size from half-an 
acre, as at Nethershiels, to two acres, as at Muirhouse and Craig^ 
end. The larger ones are circular, while the others are oval. The 
smaller ones seem to have been points of observation extending 
along the strath of the water, for communicating with one another 
by signal. In clearing away the remains of thoNcamp on Muir- 
house, a few years ago, upwards of 1000 carts of stones were re« 



STOW. 417 

moved, among which were found several querns or hand mills of 
stone, (the greywacke of the district,) circular, and about a foot in 
diameter, with a hole in the centre. Two fragments of freestone 
were picked up which had served as the upper mill-stone. 

Ancient and Modem Buildings. — The old castle of Torwoodlee, 
certainly very ancient, was superseded as a mansion-house by the 
erection of the handsome and commodious one built by the late 
proprietor, and finished in 1784. The old house of Bowland is 
partly retained in the new and noble castellated structure reared 
by General Walker, upwards of twenty years ago. There was no 
mansion-house on the estate of Symington till the present was 
built by General Pringle, more than twenty years since. The 
new house of Crookston, an excellent and commodious mansion, 
was entered in 1819. Burnhouse, a handsome dwelling, and 
beautifully situated, was built about thirty years ago. Torquhan, 
which may be similarly characterized, was erected in 1 823, when it 
superseded the house of Michelston, which was occupied by for- 
mer proprietors. Opposite to Torquhan, the House of Pirn is 
picturesquely situated on a gently-sloping bank of Gala. 

The style and accommodation of farm-houses have been greatly 
improved within these few years. 

Old Castles. — Of these there is still a number in various states 
of ruin ; and it is probable that there were others, of which no trace 
nor tradition now remains. Generally, they were square towers or 
parallelograms of various dimensions. At old Muirhouse, near 
the present shepherd's house, there were lately traces of an old 
castle or square tower, which are now obliterated. A red free- 
stone, that appears to have adorned the entrance of it, is built into 
the garden of the present farm-house. It bears the inscription, 
<* I. P. M. P. In Te Domine speravi, 1626.'' It is not known 
that there are any remains of an ancient castle higher up Gala 
Water than Stow, except that of Hop- Pringle, opposite Crookston, 
and Howliston Tower, on the opposite side of the Gala, now oc- 
cupied as the farm-house. The walls are four feet in thickness ; 
and from this place you have a very extensive view. While the 
evidence of the former existence of such a building precludes all 
dubiety, the remains of it are so slender, that it is difficult even to 
trace the precise form and extent of the structure. It was anciently 
possessed by the family of the Hop-Pringles, the chieftain iamily 
of the clan or tribe, to which most of the lands of Gala Water 
anciently belonged. On the top of a hill on the farm of Bow, 

EDINBURGH. D d 



r 



418 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

there remains merely the evidence of such a structure having once 
existed. It is still put down in the maps as '* Bow Castle.'* On 
Lugate Water, there have been two. One of them, close to the 
present farm*house, was called Lugate Castle. All that remains 
is a portion of one of the walls, now built into an outhouse. The 
other, of which a great part of the square tower yet remains, is to« 
wards a mile farther up on the north side of the water. This is 
what is now usually called Lugate Castle, but appears to have 
been originally named *^ Ewes Castle," from the ancient name of 
the water. 

Torsonce Castle has been roofed in, and is occupied by the 
proprietor as a cottage or summer residence. 

The old Castle of Torwoodlee, now in ruins, was of unusually 
large dimensions, and in the extent of its accommodations, and 
superiority of its architecture, bears evidence of the wealth and 
splendour of this ancient family at a remote period. It was inha- 
bited as a mansion-house till 1784. 

There were three castles on Cadon Water. There are some 
remains of the one at Redhead farm-house on the property of 
Whytbank. There was another at Blackhaugh, a little way up 
the Cadon, of which every vestige has now been removed. It 
remains that we notice, as the last, Windydoors Castle, the 
ruins of which are connected with the present farm-offices, or ra* 
ther form a part of thenu A few particulars concerning this 
ruin may give a general, though, in many cases, too favourable 
an idea of such structures in this district. Its form is that 
of a parallelogram, 52 feet by 24, over walls, which are 4 
feet thick. What now remains, being the castle keep, and still 
used for a similar purpose, includes the whole space inclosed 
by the walls, and is strongly arched over, with a square space 
in the centre of the arch, used for a trap door as a commu- 
nication in circumstances of danger. Above were the human 
habitations ; and a considerable part of the walls still exhibit to 
us the wonderful strength of the original structure. The stones 
are of huge dimensions, and must have been raised to their pre- 
sent locality by some ingenious mechanical power. It is to the 
extraordinary strength of the mortar that we owe the existence of 
a single fragment of this ancient structure ; for, about forty years 
ago, when the present farm-house was built, the old castle was 
determined on as the quarry from which the stones were to be 
furnished. The attempt was made for a few days, and then re- 



STOW. 419 

Hnquished in despair, the workmen declaring, that they would 
quarry and drive stones from a distance of five miles, hilly and 
mossy, without a road, rather than have anything more to do with 
such mortar. The late tasteful and liberal-minded proprietor. 
General Walker, did all that could well be done to preserve 
from farther decay these not uninteresting ruins, which may yet 
brave the rage of the elements for centuries to come. 

III. — Population. 



Amount of population in 181 1 , 


1456 


1821, 


1641 


1831, 


1771 


1841, 


1784 



The number of proprietors, as already given, is 16, the yearly 
value of the smallest of whose properties here, with property 
elsewhere, is considerably above L.100 per annum. The annual 
rents of the smallest proprietor, who has no lands elsewhere, is 
above L.300. 

The people may be described as healthy, vigorous, intelligent, 
and well-informed, and possessed of the usual characteristics of 
an independent and enlightened peasantry, living in a salubrious 
district 

Poaching in game and salmon, the first injurious to the morals, 
and the last both to the health and morals of those who engage 
in it, are not entirely unknown. 

IV. — Industry. 
Imperial acres in pasture, 27,510 ; under the plough, 1 1,345 ; 

planted, 959 ; total, 39,814. Allowing for sites of houses, roads, 

&c« in round numbers, 40,000 acres in the parish* 

Sheep. — 

Scores. Sheep. 

Cheviot, 552 s 11,040, at 68. rent per annum, L.ddl2 

Black.faced, 840 « 6,800, at 5e. (rather, perhaps, 4s. 6d.) ,1700 

Leicester or half-bred, 94 « 1960, at lOs., . . 990 



986 » 19,820 .... L.6002 

Add six per cent, for the shepherd's share in the flocks, as actually 
kept on the ground, but not yielding rent, and the number will be, 
scores, 1045, and single sheep, 21,009. I have ascertained by 
particulars, 208 cattle fattened, and by proportion of rent, (yet 
making allowance for mere sheep farms in the other cases,) I 
would suppose, that, altogether in the parish, there may be 539 



420 EDINBURGHSHniE. 

fattened annually, and the same number reared.* Dairy produce 
of a cow after rearing her calf, which merely keeps up the stock, 
is not to be reckoned as profit. The proportion of milk, &c. af- 
forded to the household, which also is not profit, may average 
nearly L.4. Cattle put up to feed, worth L.7 to L«d, and selling 
at L.1 1 to L.12, yield also about L.4 profit ; but putting both to- 
gether, say L.7, and then 539 X 7 zz L.d77a 

Real rent, ascertained by addition of particulars, is L.1 2,882 Ster- 
ling, giving for 39,814 acres an average rent of 6s. 5^d. per acre, 
while the produce of plantation which, in round numbers, may be 
1000 acres, or the fortieth part of the whole, is not taken into 
the account. 

The land now under the plough (11,345 acres,) is probably as 
much as should be kept in regular cropping. A great deal more, 
however, has been occasionally ploughed, and, for the improve- 
ment of pasture, much might in this way still be done. 

There is arable land in cultivation not worth 10s. an acre ; but 
what deserves to be regularly cultivated, may range between 15s. 
and L.1, 15s. ; but of the last there is so little, that L.1 may be 
given as the average value. 

Grazing an ox or a cow during summer may be rated at L.2, 
5s. to L.3, though in favourable circumstances, L.4 is sometimes 
given. 

Sheep. — In this quarter, we do not speak of so much for << graz- 
ing a full grown sheep,'* &c. In taking a farm, the tenant con- 
siders how many sheep the ground will support He sells so 
many lambs, so many great ewes, and so many sheep fat; and accord- 
ing to data thus formed, he considers, from the nature of the pas- 
ture, the breed to which it is adapted, and other circumstances, 
what he can afford as the rent generally for each, and makes his 
offer accordingly. On two or three high and wild sheep farms 
adapted to the black-faced kind, 4s. 3d. to 4s. 6d. a sheep may 
be enough. Where situation and climate are more favourable, the 
rent of the Cheviot may vary from 5s. to 7s., and where the half- 
bred or mixture of the Cheviot and Leicester may be reared, lOs. 
a sheep may be afforded. 

Breeds of Sheep. — The prevailing breed of sheep is the Cheviot 
or white-faced. On the best pasture where young grass (sown 
the preceding year) can be given till near the end of May, the 

* Sereral yean back (1699) lome farmers have preferred buying in yoang eat* 
tie to rearing them. 



STOW. 421 

half-bred sheep, may be reared. On the highest and coarsest pas- 
ture, the Highland or black-faced are found most eligible* 
The half-bred require pasture,* where there is little travelling in 
quest of food. The Cheviot take a wider and a higher range, 
but are not inclined to go to the wilder and higher places, to which 
the black-faced are prompted by nature to give the preference. 

This fact solves a difficulty as to the comparative numbers of 
Cheviot and black-faced that a farm will maintain. I have heard 
the proportion stated of five Cheviot to six black- faced, and that too 
by farmers of intelligence and experience. The deduction is fal- 
lacious. Where the ground is all pastured, the same weight of 
sheep will consume the same quantity of food ; but the black- 
faced spontaneously feed where the Cheviot will go only when 
driven, and then, restraint on the one hand, and reluctance on the 
other, obviously prevent them from thriving. It is a fact, that a 
farmer whose stock is half-bred has lately added to them ten score 
of black-faced, without diminishing the number of the others which 
happens to be the same. Even on the supposition that these 
Highland lovers of freedom occasionally respected but little the 
distinction between the meum and tuuniy still the fact is so re- 
markable as to fix the attention of the store-farmer. 

Great attention has been lately paid to the breeding of sheep, 
and the adaptation of the kinds to pasture and climate. It would 
be outof place here to speak largely on the subject The black- 
faced were at one time almost given up for the Cheviot, even on 
the wildest pasture. Experience has corrected this error, and the 
breed is now as extensively resumed as the nature of the pasture 
and climate of the several farms require. Overstocking was for- 
merly practised to a ruinous extent, but is now carefully avoided. 
About fifty years ago, 100 scores of sheep were kept, where the 
stock is now reduced to 80 scores. On a farm where, twenty 
years ago, 70 scores were kept, there are now only 50, though 
fifty acres, now the best pasture, were then under the plough. 
Under the former management, the sheep were miserably small, 
and the deaths in spring quite appalling. With the decrease in 
numbers, there is at present more mutton and more wool than for- 
merly ; while both are much better and greater in value than the 
higher numbers formerly were. 

Breeds of Cattle* — The most prevalent is the Teeswater. A 
very intelligent and experienced farmer is of opinion that^he cat- 
tle best adapted to Galawater, particularly in regard to the dairy, 



422 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

would be the offspring of the Ayrshire cow and the bulls present- 
ly used, and as the first cross is always the best, that the breeders 
in every case should be the real Ayrshire. To follow this rule 
exactly, would be extremely difficult, but it may be important to 
make the nearest approach to it that the circumstances will ad- 
mit. 

Ttamip Feeding. — The number of cattle fed on turnips when the 
last Statistical Account was drawn up, is stated at 90, and the 
sheep at six score. We have calculated the former to be at pre- 
sent upwards of 500. As to the last I can give no probable con- 
jecture. 

The general character of the husbandry pursued is excellent. 
Every branch of rural economy is well understood and skilfully 
practised* 

Leases. — The general duration of leases is nineteen years, 
though in some cases they extend only to from nine to fourteen. 

The state of farm-buildings has been of late much improved, 
both as regards dwelling-houses and offices. Farm-houses, with 
scarcely an exception, are neat, substantial, and commodious 
buildings of two stories high, with garrets. Enclosures, chiefly of 
drystone dikes, are continually extending. 

Produce of the Parish. — Taking the whole parish to follow the 
five shift course of husbandry, the produce will be nearly as fol- 
lows :— 

4538 acres in white corn crop, at L.5 per acre» L.22,690 

2269 do. in potatoes and turnips, at L.4, 10s, . 10210 10 

52269 do. hay and pasture, at L.4, 9076 

2269 do. pasture, at L.1, 15s., 3970 15 



U45,947 


5 





6000 








6500 








4050 








2000 









11,845 

500 cattle, at L.1 2, 
20,000 sheep, at 68. 6d. 
5,400 stones of wool, at 158., 
Other kinds of produce, 

L.64,497 5 

It is to be remembered that turnips and potatoes, though here 
valued as raw produce, are actually all consumed on the farm, as 
is often the case with a good deal of the hay. It is to be consi- 
dered, therefore, as merged in fat cattle, sheep, dairy, &c., which 
last may be estimated at L.2000. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Fi7/a^6«.— Stow is the only village in the parish. As hamlets, 
however, may be mentioned, Fountainhall, Kyllochyett, Giilba, 



STOW. 423 

Crosslee, and Wbytbanklee^ more generally known as Cloven- 
fords. 

Market^'Toum. — The nearest market-towns to the village of 
Stow are, Galashiels, eight miles south ; Selkirk, fourteen ; Lau- 
der, five and a-half east ; and Dalkeith, nineteen north. 

There is no manufactory in the village or parish, except one 
clothier's establishment, called the Waulk-Mill, which we find 
mentioned as far back as 1773. It has been always on a small 
scale. 

PoiUOffice. — The only post-office in the parish is that in the 
village, to which it was transferred from Stagehall, in 1819, after 
the opening of the new road. There has, however, been a post- 
office either in the village or neighbourhood since 1703. Pre- 
viously to August 1807, riders or runners conveyed the mail bags 
from Melrose or other places; but, in that year and month, a 
mail-coach began to run this road between Edinburgh and Lon- 
don by Carlisle. There was then a daily post from Edinburgh 
alone ; but there has now been, for many years, a daily delivery 
from the north and from the south. 

- About thirty years ago, the only thing on the road, by way of a 
stage-coach, was a sort of wretched post-chaise, ealled the Jed- 
burgh Fly, twice a-week in, and twice a-week out, which car- 
ried four passengers inside, and one beside the driver. 

Bridges and Fences in the Parish^ — The only bridge in the pa- 
rish, till 1815, was that over Gala, at Stow. It appears, by the 
session records, that it was built in 1654-5. It seems to have 
been a very serious affair, and many are the minutes of the kirk- 
session concerning it.* 

To connect our new road (fully opened Whitsunday 1818) with 
that to Selkirk, a very handsome bridge was built over the Gala, 
immediately opposite the new approach to Bowland, in the sum- 
mer of 1815, at the joint expense of the counties of Edinburgh 
and Selkirk. Another bridge, about a mile higher up, was built 
in 1829, to connect the old and new roads, and chiefly for the ac- 
commodation of the Bowland tenants, at the mutual but unequal 
expense of the late General Walker and the road trustees. In 
1831, another respectable and substantial bridge was built over 
the Gala at Pimtaiton, as a communication between the two sides 

* About the year 1668, and aometime after, we have diurch coUeotioos made for 
bunding a bridge at Lanark, another over the Spey, and another at InTemeas, with 
▼arious other bridcea and harboursy each one of which seems to have been regarded 
as a great national undertaking. 



424 BDINBURQHSHIRB. 

of the river. The only other bridge over Gala, excqpt at Gala- 
shiels, is a haodsome and substaDtial one, built by the present pro* 
prietor of Torwoodlee, solely at his own expense, about thirty 
years ago, to afford him access to the new road, of which a part 
in that quarter was then made. 

Under the head of bridges, we must not omit to mention a yery 
good and commodious one built, about fifty years ago, by the 
county of Edinburgh over Lugate Water. 

Upon the estate of Stow alone, since the year 1826, there have 
been above 28,000 roods of fences erected by the proprietor and 
tenants at an outlay of upwards of L. 7000 ; thus enabling the 
tenant to cultivate his IsUids agreeably to the best system of mo- 
dern husbandry ; and the improvement in the breeding and feed- 
ing of farm stock of every description has kept pace with more 
favoured districts of the country, where the climate and soil are 
more genial. 

Draining has also been carried on to a great extent and with 
manifest advantage, the proprietors, for the most part, bearing a 
proportion of the expense. The main or leading drains are cut to 
the depth of from 36 to 42 inches, and the lateral or furrow drains 
from 28 to 30 inches in depth ; these have had the effect of me- 
liorating the climate, rendering the wet land fit for green crops, 
and making our harvest earlier. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is about nine miles, by 
the public road, from the extremities of the parish in either direc- 
tion ; and as the greater part of the population is within a couple 
miles from the highway, on either side of the river, the church is 
as conveniently situate as the case will admit. 

The church must have been built at a very remote period, and 
long before the reformation of religion in this country. It has 
undergone various alterations as well as repairs. 

As to free sittings, there is here, as in other landward parishes^ 
no other thing than free sittings, and no such thing as seat-letting. 
As the law requires the church to be built and kept in repair by 
the heritors, the area is divided among them according to their 
valued rents, which now regulates their assessments. The pro- 
prietor and his tenants have a right to occupy the space thus al- 
located, which, however, is by no means always proportioned either 
to the extent of property or the assessment levied. 

Stow was a mensal church of the Archbishop of St Andrews. 

Mansef Offices, §*c. — The present manse was built in 1782, and 



STOW* 426 

was repaired and somewhat improyed in 1809. An addition was 
made to it in 1815, but it is still too small, both as to the number, 
and yet more as to the size of the apartments. 

The low glebe of Stow consists of within half a rood of seven 
acres imperial, of which Gve acres and three roods are under the 
plough. The rest is occupied by the garden, site of manse, &c., 
and a bank east of the garden, &c. There is also what is called 
the high or hill glebe, consisting of a part of what was anciently 
common, and of which, when ultimately divided in 1 756, a portion 
was allocated to the minister in lieu of certain rights of pasturage 
formerly enjoyed. 

The improvements on the hill glebe may have cost me about 
L. 800, and I consider it at present worth L. 20 a year. 

The stipend of Stow previously to 1698 was L.400 Scots and 
two chalders of victual. At that time L.d50, 6s. 2d. Scots were 
added to it In 1780, it was raised to L.840 Scots and two chal- 
ders meal and one bear. In 1806, it was again augmented to 
seven chalders, one-third barley and the rest meal, with L.900 
Scots (L.75 Sterling) including L.8, 6s. 8d. Sterling for commu- 
nion elements, and finally, the Court of Teinds (20th November 
1822) modified the stipend of Stow to sixteen chalders, one-half 
meal and the other half barley, payable at the highest Gar prices, 
with L.8, 6s. 8d. Sterling for communion elements. Three heritors, 
the proprietors of Crookston, of Michelston, and of Newhall, have 
surrendered their teinds, but there still remain funds for an aug- 
mentation. 

A meeting-house was set down in the village of Stow, soon after 
the Secession from the Church a century ago. It belongs to what 
is now called the United Secession Church. 

The number of families and individuals attending the Establish- 
ed Church cannot be very accurately ascertained, as there is no 
letting of seats. The number of communicants has exhibited a 
progressive increase from 1808, when I first dispensed the Lord's 
Supper here. Including ministers and elders it was then 230 ; in 
1R18, it was 31 4; in 1821, it was 340; and in 1830 and 1831, 
it was 370 : and in 1833, it was 374. In 1835, the actual com- 
municants reached 400. It is obviously proper to distinguish ac- 
tual conununicants from those in the parish who are entitled to 
the privilege, as not a few of these last must, on every occasion of 
dispensing this holy ordinance, be prevented by ill health and 
other causes from attending. 



426 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Id July 1834, the Bible Society (instituted 1818) waa merged 
in the ** Stow Society for Religious Purposes'' in aid of the Ge- 
neral Assembly's Four Schemes, but not excluding the Bible So- 
ciety, to which, or to any of the Assembly's Schemes, members 
may destine their own contributions ; where this is not done, the 
Committee apportion their funds to the four schemes* The sum 
distributed among them in May 1839 was L.15, 10s. The four 
collections appropriated to the same objects amounted to some- 
thing about the same sum, making in all upwards of L.30. 

Education, — Besides the parochial school, there are three pri- 
vate schools supported solely by school-fees. In addition to 
the usual branches of reading, writing, arithmetic, practical mathe- 
matics and book-keeping taught at them all, there is one, besides 
the parochial school, at which Latin is occasionally taught For 
the encouragement of poor parents who are very zealous to have 
their children instructed, a school-house has long been furnished 
at Cadonlee. With the same benevolent purpose the late General 
Walker built a school-house on his property at Caitha, and one at 
Pirntaiton was erected by the late Miss Innes of Stow, 1832. With 
the exception of the school-houses thus furnished by the proprie- 
tors, these private or adventure schools are supported by the 
school fees alone, which are high when the scholars are few, and 
low when they are numerous. The parochial schoolmasters sa- 
lary is L.80 with a dwelling house and garden. Pirntaiton school, 
erected by Miss Innes of Stow, was opened 10th December 1832. 

The present parochial school-house, which is every way an ex- 
cellent one, was buih in 1828, being the 6rst that ever was in the 
parish.* 

Literature. — A congregational library was instituted in 1823. 
The books, amounting at present to upwards of 800 volumes, 
consist of standard works on religion, and morals, church history, 
biography, general history, and travels. 

The Fountainhall Library, consisting now of upwards of 700 



* A few lentenoes regarding the school in former times, compressed from our 
sioD records, may be worth inserting here. In June 1 695, we find the session (then 
consisting chiefly of heritors) ordering L.6 Scots, equal to lOs. Sterling, to par the 
schoolmaster's house from Whitsunday 1694 to Whitsunday 1695. In January 1699, 
the session records (for preservation) an act of the heritors passed 2d June 1697, aug- 
menting the schoolmaster's salary to fourscore pounds Soots (L.6, 13s. 4d. Sterling.) 
This sum is given « for his maintenance and to provide a commodious school-bouse,** 
and is ** all he can ask or crave as schoolmaster, or reader^ (in the church,) '' to he 
paid according to the valued rent, heritors having a relifo of half thereof from the 
tenants conform to the said act" 

3 



8T0W* 427 

volumes, was instituted iu 1812, and is in a very flourishing state. 
It embraces every species of English literature. 

The Sabbath school also has a suitable little library. 
Friendly Societies. — Of these there were several for a time, but 
the only one now remaining is that of the Free Masons. 

Savings Banks. — The one nearest to Stow is that in Galashiels, 
of which a number of persons in this parish avail themselves. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — Our session records contain much 
valuable information on what may be called the history of the 
poor, and the police of pauperism. Going back to an yearly pe- 
riod in the seventeenth century, we find regularly enlisted poor 
and provision of weekly and monthly allowances made to them. 
The numbers then varied from eight to ten and thirteen. Coming 
down another century, and so approaching the present period, we 
scarcely find an increase of poor, corresponding to that of the po- 
pulation. In the years 1818-1820, temporary causes increased the 
number to £0 and even 24 ; but, for some years back, it has varied 
from 13 to 15, each receiving at an average a fraction under 6s. 
a month, with interim or temporary allowances, varying firom lOs. 
to L. 1 ; average 13s. to from 8 to 11 persons. This comparison 
of the number receiving aid now, and two centuries ago, is very 
gratifying, and by no means justifies the gloomy views which some 
entertain of the supposed deterioration in this respect of the na- 
tional character. 

In considering the claims of applicants, the session allowed so 
much a- week. In 1699, for instance, it varied from 28. to 18s. 
Scots, or 2d. to Is. 6d. Sterling, the last equalling the average 
of what is allowed now at the distance of 130 years. Besides the 
pecuniary aid, most of the poor were ^* allowed to goe," that is to beg, 
in the parish. In the case of one applicant, all that is granted is 
permission " to goe." This, when the nature of the parochial 
economy and police then practised is considered, might not be 
the most unproductive allowance ; for a list of the poor with their 
allowances was read from the pulpit, and the session clerk was ap- 
pointed to write testimonials to those who were " allowed to goe 
in the parioch,'' so that if any presumed ^^ to goe" without permis* 
sion, they were immediately detected. In addition to all these 
checks, the church oflBcer had a small sum for keeping stranger 
poor out of the parish. 

During the seventeenth century, the ordinary weekly collec- 
tions may be stated at from L.1 to L.3 Scots, excepting the times 



428 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

of the persecution, when the curates had usurped our pulpits. 
There was then scarcely the shadow of a collection. We fre- 
quently find it as low as three-halfpence Sterling, which was 
surely not too much to expect from the persons officiating. 

The number of persons who, at a remote period, flocked from 
all quarters to the communion, and the disposition to liberality 
usually connected with the dispensing of that solemn ordinance, 
occasioned very large collections. In one case we find the num- 
ber of communicants stated to be 1500, being many more than 
that of souls in the parish. In one instance I find the collection 
on the several sacramental days to be L.9d Scots ; and in 1707, the 
union between the kingdoms having just taken place, and the 
country being in a very impoverished and unsettled state, the col- 
lection, notwithstanding, amounted to L. 69, 2s* lOd. Scots. 

In the former Statistical Account, the first assessment for the 
poor is said to have been laid on in October 1764. It appears, 
however, that, so far back as 1653, a ** stent" was laid upon the 
heritors for maintaining the poor, amounting to *< fyftie-four," 
(the name of the measure is illegible) *^ of meal.'' Again, in 
1699, an assessment was laid on, and the enforcement of it is 
thus recorded. ^^ 9th March, the session appoints intimation to be 
given to the congregation on Sabbath nixt, that such as have not 
payed their proportion of stent for maintenance of the poor, pay 
in the same to the oversiers upon Tuesday nixt at Stow, where 
the said oversiers ar to meet for that efiect, otherwise they will 
be delated to the bailoph." The assessment, or stent, on this 
occasion, was L.I in the L.100 of valued rent This fact, with 
the number of the poor, upwards of 20, or about double the usual 
number, marks a period of great distress. It appears that in 
calamitous years, recourse was had to assessments even at re- 
mote periods, and these being voluntary and only occasional, did 
good and no evil, which is far from being the case when they 
are regular and compulsory. These, as already stated, be- 
gan in this parish in 1764. In the disastrous years 1782-S, 
the assessments were of course high, and we find them fluctuating 
with the character of the season. October 1805, the half-year's 
assessment is L.45, =» L.90 per annum. In 1806, L.80 per an- 
num; enlisted poor, 18, with interims. November 1831, pau- 
pers, 18; while the assessment now varies from L.24 to L.d7 
half-yearly, the half being paid by the heritors, and the other half 
by the tenants. 



STOW. 429 

The collection at the communion season, in 1808, was L.1, 12s« 
It gradually increased, and, for a number of years, has varied 
from about L.4 to L.6 and upwards, the difference being occa- 
sioned by the residence or non-residence of some genteel families. 
The average ordinary collections through the year, (exclusive of 
sacramental collections and those for religious purposes) may be 
stated at from L.10 to L.12. The compulsory assessment keeps 
it so low, and is the cause of innumerable evils. 

Besides the collections and assessments, the session have had 
at their disposal about L.90 within these few years. The interest 
of this money, with something from the collections, has for some 
time been employed in procuring coals for the most needy, about 
the middle of winter. The severe spring of 1838 caused an 
encroachment on the principal. 

Fairs, — There is one annual fair held in Stow, on the second 
Tuesday of March. Besides the usual business transacted on all 
such occasions. Stow fair had three special objects ; the selling of 
great ewes, and of seed-corn, and hiring servants. Within these 
few years, the selling of great ewes has been transferred chiefly to 
Gifford fair, in East Lothian. A good deal of business is still 
done in seed, oats, and grass seeds. The hiring of servants with- 
out certificates of character or of qualification still continues. 

Inns. — Torsonce inn, so called from being built upon a part of 
the mill lands of Torsonce, a quarter of a mile north of Stow, is 
much admired by travellers, as perhaps unequalled by any country 
inn in Scotland. It was built by the subscriptions of seven heri- 
tors in the county of Edinburgh, and of 9ight in the adjoining 
counties of Selkirk and Roxburgh. It was finished in 1819, at 
the expense of L.2884. Some subsequent additional expenses 
being added, the whole in round numbers may be stated at 
L.3000. 

In the village there are now three public-houses. Less than 
twenty years ago, there was but one, while that corresponding to 
Torsonce inn was at Bankhouse, three miles north. The increase 
of public-houses will not be expected to add to our moral improve- 
ment At not unsuitable distances to the north, there are five 
more public-houses, and to the south two ; in all eleven. 

FueL — On two or three farms, where there is a good deal of 
peat moss, peat is still used to some extent as fuel. Every where 
else the use of peat and turf is superseded by that of C'Oal, and 
driven from about fifteen miles north of the village. 



490 EDINBUROHSHIRE. 

MlSCBLLANBOUS OBSERVATIONS. 

Under the head of CivU History it has been seen that Mr John 
Clelland was minister of Stow at the time of the Restoration, and 
that, in consequence of the persecution of the Presbyterians which 
soon followed, he resigned in 1665; and that his place was occu^ 
pied by two or three curates, till the Revolution in 1688. Soon 
after (1690) Mr James Scott is mentioned as minister. He was 
succeeded, in 1693, by Mr James Douglas, who died minister of 
Stow, in 1782. In 1788, Mr David Duncan succeeded him, and 
died in 1759. Mr Robert Dawson, his successor, signed the for- 
mula 6th May 1760, and survived my settlement as his assistant 
and successor (17th September 1807) till 28d March 1809. 

The first minute book of the heritors, as distinct from the ses- 
sion records, begins in 1759. Heritors continued to be designated 
simply from their property, as George Innes of Stow, James 
Pringle of Rowland, or by the name of their property alone, as 
Torsonce, Torwoodlee, &&, till between 1770 and 1780, when 
Mr is occasionally, but seldom prefixed to the name. The first 
instance in which Esquire occurs is in 1780. It is not till about 
1790, however, that either Mr or Esquire is regularly used. 
From the earliest period, Mr is prefixed to the clergyman's name, 
not as indicating a status in society, but as equivalent to Master 
of Arts. Thus we find Boston in his Memoirs begin a solemn 
deed in this manner : ^^ I, Thomas Boston, now Mr Thomas 
Boston,'' &c In a curious manuscript of poll-tax, paid in 1695, 
we find *^ Mr James Borthwick of Stow." This prefixture of 
Mr I am inclined to ascribe to the literary, and not to the civil 
status of this gentleman, of whom some notices have been already 
given. 

Poll' Tax J 1695. — From a curious old MS. in the possession of 
John Borthwick, Esq. of Crookston, who has kindly given me the 
perusal of it, a few extracts may not only be interesting in them- 
selves, but lead to some important results. The tax was levied 
over the kingdom ; and in this MS. we have the names and desig- 
nations of persons in *^ Stow toun," and in order those of the dif- 
ferent farms and properties in the parish, so far as these lie in the 
county of Edinburgh. The individuals paying the tax in ^< Stow 
toun" were 96. This seems to have included every soul, as the 
designation of the tax indicates. Husband, wife, children, mother- 
in-law, servants, apprentices, are all mentioned by name, and the 
sum paid by each. Paupers were, of course, excluded. The 



STOW. 431 

number of them this year is Dot mentioned, but next year it was 
9. This number added to <96 gives 105 as the whole souls in the 
" toun." The amount of poll-tax paid by the 96 was L. 45, 2s. 
2d. Scots. The largest sum paid by an individual, '^ Thomas 
Scott, nottar publick," was L. 4, 6s., his wife and daughter, 12s. 
The next highest, paid by ** Mr James Douglas, minister of Stow," 
L. 9, 6s. There are only four cases besides in which the tax 
amounts to L. 1 Scots, but these include whole families. A wife, 
an apprentice, a cottar, and a single woman, without regard to 
rank, were all rated at 6s. each. Thus we have seen that the 
^< nottar publick's" wife and daughter pay between them only 123. 
Nay, in another place, we Bud a considerable proprietor, John 
Inglis of Mannerhead, then living at Cortleferry, pays L. 12, 68., 
and ^* Elspeth Mitchelson, his lady,** pays but 6s. What an out- 
cry in these times would a poll-tax in any form have raised, but 
especially this glaring inequality in levying if. 

This curious list enables us to ascertain the following facts re- 
garding the village of Stow at that time. There were in it 1 no- 
tary public, 1 bmter (baker), 3 coopers, including an apprentice, 
4 tailors, 2 wrights, 1 maltsman, 8 weavers, 2 smiths, including an 
apprentice. At present, with more than three times the popula- 
tion, there are 1 cooper, 1 wright or carpenter, besides 2 or more 
men, 3 tailors, 2 smiths, with 2 journeymen apprentices, 2 weav- 
ers, not fully employed, no notary public or writer, and what is 
most surprising, seeing the people live almost exclusively on loaf 
bread there, it is only lately (1838) there was a baker in the village, 
while there is but one more in the parish. 

From this curious document we incidentally learn the rate of 
servants' wages at that period ; for it was this which fixed the 
amount of the tax, and so rendered it an income tax, descending 
to the humblest occupation in the community. A man-servant's 
wages, called his *^ fie and bounteth,'' varied in Stow from L. 20 
to L. 25, 4s. = L. 2, 2s. Sterling. This last was the wages of the 
minister's servant The highest '^ fie and bounteth" I find any- 
where is at ^^ Cortilferrie,'' (occupied by John Inglis of Manner- 
head) L. 27, =: L. 2, 5s. Sterling. This seems to have been a 
person of trust and responsibility, as the ** fie and bounteth" of the 
very next person on th^ list is L. 19. Others (boys it would seem 
from the amount) have, one L. 1 1, another L. 5, another L. 3. 
The average for men would seem to be about L.20, = L. 1, 13. 
4d. Sterling. On the same establishment I find 3 women*servants. 



432 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

with each L. 13, I4s. r='L. 1, 2s. lOd. SterliDg. In other places 
men's " fie and bounteth" may be stated at L. 18 and L. 19, while 
women yary from L. 10 to L. 13 

In comparing the number of souls on the same farm or property 
then and now, the increase would seem to be in the proportion of 
5 to 4. Where there were 15 or 16, there are now 20; but in 
some cases the numbers are nearly doubled. This increase is to be 
ascribed to the great extension of agriculture, and especially to tur- 
nip husbandry, which in summer requires so many hands, and was 
then altogether unknown. These incidental facts throw some light 
on the question regarding the increase of population for the last 
century, a matter on which I find some very intelligent men have 
been doubtful. 

Curiosities of former times. — To John Borthwick, Esq. of Crook- 
ston, I am indebted for the perusal of a MS. (bound up with that 
on the poll-tax) exhibiting the family expenses 1685-1696. The 
following matters selected, and sometimes compressed, may, it is 
hoped, not be unworthy of the title under which they are placed. 

To a tailor in Dalkeith, " Stuff to be Cruikstone a coat, lining 
&C. L. 4, ds. = 6s. 1 Id. Sterling.'' The coat was of course made 
by a tailor in the house, according to the custom of the time. 

1690. *^ Cruikstone for shqes to himself, L. 1, 6s. = 2s. 2d. 
Sterling. Jan. 1691. Cruikstone for a new hatt, L.2, 18s. = 
4s. lOd." The high price of muslin, &c appears by the following : 
<^ 2 ellns muslin, L. 2, 14s. = 4s. 6d. Sterling ; 2^ ellns a la mode, 
L. 4, 16s." = 8s. In 1685, we have the item, <' 10 loads of lyme," 
(5 carts now) L. 2, 10s. or 10s. a cart ; *^ item, postage of 2 let- 
ters from Holland, L. 1, 8s. = 2s. 4d. Sterling. 

The sums paid for law and medicine appears enormous in pro- 
portion to other things. Large sums were paid also to the ser- 
vants of gentlemen of these professions. Witness the following : 

<< Feb. 1686. Consulting Sir John Dalrymple and Master John 
Stewart concerning provision for the laird's sister, 6 dollars each, 
inde, L 84, 16s. ; item to there first and second servants, LblO, 8s. ; 
item, to Sir John Dalrymple's door-keeper, (footman acting as por- 
ter) 14s. ; consulting two lawyers on another occasion, L. 52, 4s.; 
their servants, L. 18, Is.; another ^'consulting," L. 14, 10s., and 
first and second servants, L.4, 7s. ; an agent before the sheriff, L.a^ 
18s. ; *' item to his servant," 14s. ; agent's salary for 1686^ L.60; 
his servant for the said year, L» 5, 16s. 

The charges of gentlemen of the pestle and mortar, how- 



KIRKNEWTON. 433 

eveVt hf transcend those of tbe kw. As specimeDs take the foU 
lowing : ** Item, payed to Walter Pringle, appotbecarie, per ac- 
compt, 6th Oct 91, L. 56, 88« ;" ** item, payed to James Mure- 
head, appothecarie, for drogs, lltb Jmie 92, L. 178, ds. ; item, 
to bis seryant in drink money, L.2, 18s.; item, to two doctors 
and their servants, who attended her (Helen Borthwick) in her 
sickness, nyn dollars, L. 26, 2s/* 

Drawn up 1839. 
Revised November 1843. 



PARISH OF KIRKNEWTON. 

PRESBYTERY OF EDINBURGH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEKDDALE. 

THE REV. ALEXANDER LOCKHART SIMPSON, D.D, 

MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The parish of Ktrkoewton comprehends what were 
formcirly the two separate parishes of Kirknewton and East CaU 
der. 

The ohl church of Kirknewton stood dose by the village or 
town of this parish, and hence obTiousIy tbe narne^ (Kirk-newtown.) 

East Calder was anciently called also Calder Clere, or Clair. 
The former name has manifest reference to its situation relatitety 
to Mid and West Calder. Tbe latter designation arose from the 
manorial district being the prc^erty of Randulph de Clere, to 
whom it was granted by Malcolm IV., and it was so called to dis- 
tinguish it from Mid*Calder» then called Calder Comitis, which 
had belonged to tbe Earls of Fife from so early a period as the 
twelfth century. Tbe word Calder means the woody water, or a 
territory so characterized, being compounded of the Celtic terms, 
Cal or Coil, signifying wood or woody, and Dur or Dour, water 
or stream. 

Extent and Boundaries. — This parish lies to the west of Edin- 
buif;b, due of the great roads from that city to Glasgow trafefsing 
it (or nearly 4 miles, riz. from Bumwyndy d miles from Edinburgh, 

EDINBURGH. E 



4S4 EDINBUR0HSH1EE. 

to tbe bridge at Mid-Calder. Id figure, it approaches tosquare, 
extending froDn east to west towards 4 miles, and somewhat more 
from north to south. On the north it is bounded by the river 
Almond, and on this side it marches with the parishes of Uphall 
and Kirkliston; on the east and north-east, it is bounded by 
small streams or burns, separating it from Ratho ; on the south, 
it is bordered by the Water of Leith, which divides it from Currie ; 
and on the west, the Linhouse water flows between it and Mid- 
Calder. 

There is a farm called Liston«shields, in a very anomalous 
situation. It lies at the point of junction of four parishes, viz. 
Currie, Penicuik, Linton, and Mid-Calder, towards the foot of 
the Pentlands, and about two miles south from the Water of Leith. 
It is held to belong, quoad cimliaj to Kirkliston ; and the ten- 
ants have been in the habit of receiving religious ordinances at 
Kirknewton. The exact connection of these lands with the lat- 
ter parish does not appear. In the Statistical Account of Kirk- 
liston, already published, it is stated, that it *^ was annexed, 
quoad sacra^ many years ago, to the parish of Kirknewton.'' On 
reading this, the minister of Kirknewton, whose researches had 
not been able to discover any evidences to this effect, ap- 
plied for information, and learned that ^^ it was not thought that 
there ever was any formal annexation, but that the stateaieDt 
referred to had been made on general supposition," arising out of 
the fact that religious ordinances were received at Kirknewton, the 
author of it adding, that, *^ in this respect, there is an inaccuracy in 
the Statistical Account of Kirkliston." There is no doubt that 
this kind of connection has subsisted practically for a very long 
period. In the *^ Reports of the state of certain parishes in Scot- 
land, &c dated April 12, 1627," it is said that <^ the indwal- 
laris of the roume of Listonsheills has been thir sundrie yearis by- 
gane servit at the paroche kirk of Kirknewton." 
. Topographical Appearances. — The surface of the parochial 
district falls from the south, where is its greatest elevation, to 
the north, where it reaches its lowest level ; and the difference 
between these is considerable. The descent proceeds, not in a 
regular or uniform sweep, but by successive steps, sloping off 
into each other, the whole track dividing itself into three paraU 
lei terraces or stretches. The first or highest lies along the Lanark 
road, by Little Vantage and Causeyend ; the second runs on the 
same elevation with the church and the village of Kirknewton ; and 



KIRKNEWT0N# 485 

the third or lowest is that which is traversed by the Glasgow road. 
In the two uppermost of these divisions, the surfitce, in its stretch 
from east to west, is marked by farther intermediate risings and de- 
pressions* Nowhere, however, does the land rise to a height en*^ 
titled to the name of mountain. The nearest approach to this is 
the ridge called Corston Hill, lying on the north side of the road 
between Little Vantage and Causeyend* 

Climate, — The climate is good and salubrious. There are no 
particular or prevailing diseases incident to the locality ; and in- 
stances are quite common of a very advanced age. 

Hydrography^ — The parish is plentifully supplied with running 
water. • The principal streams are those already noticed as form- 
ing its boundaries, none of them of any magnitude, the largest 
being the Almond and the Water of Lefth. On each of these 
there is a grain mill ; and on the latter, till very lately, there was 
also a mill for the manufacture of coarse paper. It would appear 
from the ruinous remains still visible in different places, that the 
number of grain mills had been considerably greater in former 
times than it is at present. As this change cannot be accounted 
for by any diminution of employment generally, Che most natural 
explanation is found in the increased facilities of communication, 
giving ready access to the best mills, and leading of course to 
the discontinuance of the inferior ones. In addition to. the streams 
washing the borders of the parish, there are rivulets intersecting 
it in various directions, one of which served formerly to divide the 
two parishes now united. 

• The water obtained from springs and from pit*wells is of excel- 
lent quality. The supply from these sources has been observed 
to be less abundant of late, than formerly. This is referred to 
the thorough drainage which forms so prominent a feature in the 
present system of agricultural improvement, and the inconvenience 
may, in time, come to be no inconsiderable drawback on the great 
advantages of which the process is productive. 

Gtfo/fl^.— In this parish there are specimens of almost all the 
rocks that are to be m^t with in the county. In the banks of the 
streams which bound it, the strata are extensively exposed, and 
consist of sandstone, schale, and lime, the last commonly in thin 
beds. Sandstone abounds also in the interior, so that it can 
scarcely be doubted that this is the class of rocks on which, ge- 
nerally speaking, the district is based. To the east of the village of 
East Calder, close upon the public ro^d, there is an extensive field 
of limestone, which has long yielded an abundant supply of limet 



486 EDINBUROHaHlHE. 

to the inhabitants of the district. The rock is about foHy feet 
thick ; it rests on sandstone, and is itself surmounted by thick beds 
of shale alternating with thin beds of clay ironstonor la addition 
to these sedimentary rocks, we have whinstone in ahundaoce^ al* 
most everywhere. It is found cropping out in many parts of the 
fewer district, bqt not in such masses as to disturb the general 
level. On the central terrace, it forms craggy prominences at 
Hallcraig and Lawhead) and in Corston Hill it appears often 
enough to show that of it chiefly the hill in composed. Thia 
neighbourhood afifords some interesting illustrations of the \g^ 
neous theory of the origin of trap. At Raw it is seen bursting 
through} and, in its course, turning up the ends of the strata ; at 
Lawhead and at Redcraig, it is spread out above them ; and in 
a quarry to the north of Auchiooon farm-house, we find it capped 
by another rock evidently stratified, but very different from those 
of that class which prevails in the district. The probability is^ 
that it is shale or sandstone, altered by contact with the igneon* 
mass when first raised into its present position. 

The parish may also be considered as rich in the geological 
lecords of former ages. Several of the layers of the workable 
limestone consist almost enthely of shells, and the auperimpoaed 
shale abounds in impressions of plants in great variety, and some 
of them of great beauty. The freestone quarries also afford nu- 
merous specimens of fossil ferns. Although the system of rocks, 
which underlies the parish, is supposed to be closely connected 
with the coal measures, no coal has ever been worked in it. A 
s^am was discovered by boring on the estate of Ormiston, a con^ 
aiderable time ago, but no shaft was sunk ; and, more recently, a 
mine was driven into the north side of Auchinoon Hill, the pn>> 
perty of the Earl of Morton, where a bed about twenty inches 
thick crops out in the bank of a small stream, but the quaUty waa 
not deemed such as to encourage farther operations. 

The alluvium over the greater part of the north ead of the pa* 
rish is made up of a mixture of clay and sand, abounding in blocks 
of rolled whinstone. In some spots, there are beds of coarse gra« 
vel, and in others, deposits of pure sand of considerable depth. 
The soil here is of good quality, and produces esbcellent crops of 
all kinds. To the south, the subsoil is yellow clay, with a much 
smaller admixture of sand, and has a less abundant covering of 
vegetable mould. On the tops of the hiUs, the soil is a turfy 
loam, exchanged in a few spots of limited dimensions for peat«> 
earth. 



KIRKNEWTON. ' 437 

In the banks of the river above Calderhall^ the water which 
exudes from the rocks contains lime in solution, and deposits it 
in profusion on the mossy covering of the stones, when it comes 
in contact with the atmosphere. 

From the account now given of the geology of the parish, it 
will be seen that it is well supplied with building materials, having 
freestone, lime, and sand, in abu/idanee, and all of good quality. 

Botany. — The boundaries of this parish are peculiarly incon- 
venient to the botanist, who, being limited thereby, purposes to 
convey to -a stranger an adequate idea of the Flora of this district 
of the county; for, although the Dalmahoy and Kaimes Hills, 
Ravelrig Toll Moss, the Pentland Hills, the north bank of the 
Almond, and Calder Wood, all well-known habitats for many of 
the rarer plants of Mid-Lothian, lie closely and temptingly adja«* 
cent, yet, being beyond its limits, it would be inconsistent with 
tHe plan of a work like the present, to include their productions 
in a notice of plants purporting to have been actually found 
within the parish ; and, indeed, it may be thought that the printed 
results of the labours of Dr Greville, Mr Woodforde, the inde-* 
fatigable Mr Watson, and of the Botanical Society of Edinburgh, 
have rendered any further enumeration of plants growing within 
ten or' twelve miles of the Scottish capital a work of supereroga- 
tion. And, truly, it would be altogether so, were it not that, evet' 
since the publication of the more recent of the lists of plants above 
alluded to, alterations have occurred, and these, instead of in- 
creasing, have diminished the catalogue of our rarer plants ; for, 
besides those gradual botanical changes which from time to time 
result from the planting or removal of trees, and the extension 
of draining and of cultivation, the popularity of the study of bo- 
tany has of late years materially co-operated in extirpating, if not 
totally, at least from known habitats, several of our rarest species ; 
and the unsparing zeal with which ^* foraging excursions" of her-' 
bivorouB botanical stude^nts carry on their collecting operations, 
18 annually making our plants go through the comparative degrees 
of rarity, till the local botanist is with grief obliged to remove 
their names altogether from his list For example, the Osmunda 
regalia is now no longer to be found on the south bank of the 
linbouse Water ; the Cymriadefna conop»ea has become ex- 
tremely scarce; and the white-flowered variety of that elegant 
and most fragrant of our native Orehide€Bf and which at all times 
was rare, has totally disappeared* The Glaucium luteum^ once 
common on the gravelly banks of the Water of Leith, about eleven 



438 



BOINBUROHSHIHR. 



miles from Edinburgh, is not now to be met with' there ; neither 
is the Astragalus glycyphyllus^ once frequent on the same habitat. 
These are among the most recent of our losses, but many others 
might be added to the list of the departed. 

The following catalogue, therefore, besides being limited to 
species generally more rarely to be met with, contains the names 
of those only which were actuary found to be still extant within 
the boundaries of the united parish in 1840. 



•TroUius europeus 
Viola lutea 
Campanula latifolia 
Spergula subulata 
Arenaria verna 
Geranium syWaticum 
■ pyrenaicum 

Polygonum vivaparum 
Orobus sylvaticus 
Melilotua leifcantha 
Spiraea salicifolia 
Rosa Sabini? 
Rubus saxatilis 
Vcrbascum Thapsus 
Melampyrum sylvaticum 
Comarum palustre 
Symphytum officinale 
Sedum villosum 
liAyrrhis odorata 



Lonioera Caprifolium 
Galium erectum 
Gymnadenia conopsea 
Habenaria albida 
■ - bifolia 

— —— chlorantba 
Cnicus heterophy]lu8 
Gnapbalium dioicum 
Pyrola rotundifolia 
— — minor 
Anchusa sempervirens 
? Scrophularia ▼ernalis 
Mentha viridis 



piperita 



Stachys ambigua 
Primula eUtior 
Empetrum nigrum 
Saliz pentandra 
• cinerea 



Potaroogeton nifescens 
Carex tereiiuscula 
— fulva 
-— -^ stricta 

filiformis 

Allium ursinum 
Poa aquatica 
Pbalaris arundinacea 
Festuca bromoides 
Polypodium Phegopteria 
— ~-^— Dryopteris 
Asplenium lanceolatum 

— i. A diaDtum-nigrum 

Scolopendrium vulgare 
Aspidium spinulosum 
^ I aculeatura 

lobatum 

Lyoopodium claTatum 
■ inundatum 



At Ormiston Hill, the Meconopsis cambrica and Geranium 
pluBum^ and some other scarce plants, are to be found ; but the 
late eminent Dr Cullen, to whom the place formerly belonged, it is 
said, amused himself by scattering the seeds of many of the rarer 
British species ; consequently plants found there must be taken 
cum notd. 

Many curious and rare HepaticcB^ Alg<B^ and Fungi are to be 
found throughout this parish, and among the latter may be men- 
tioned the brilliant Peziza coccinea ; but to enter upon so exten-* 
sive a field would extend beyond all reasonable bounds this al- 
ready lengthy notice. 

The principal localities wherein the aboye-mentioned plants are 
to be met with, and to which a botanist should, in this parish, 
betake himself, are the banks of the Linhouse Water, up from 
Calder Hall ; the neighbourhood of the lime quarries near the 
Glasgow road, between the tenth and eleventh mile from Edin- 
burs^h ; the banks of the Almond at Almondell ; the ravine at 
Ormiston Hill; the woods at Meadowbank; the banks of the 
Water of Leith towards Leith-head mills; and-the mosses to the 
north of the Cairn Hill. 

With the exception of the banks of the Linhouse Water, and 



KIRRNEWTON. 439 

occasionally along the Almond, where several indigenous thickets 
of hazel, and sloe, and mountain ash, contribute to the picturesque 
beauty of their respective streams, there are no natural woods, 
which, however, is in some degree compensated for by the extent 
of the plantations, which, particularly towards the northern and 
eastern boundaries of the parish, add richness and variety to the 
landscape. 

The Orchis tribe, with the Pamassia and Pinguieula^ abound 
throughout the ditches and moist pastures. The raspberry and 
strawberry are plentiful in the woods; and in the muirland parts of 
the parish, the Drosera rotundifoliai Abama ossifragny and Erio" 
phorum vaginatum, are frequent. 

Of particular trees there are few deserving of much notice. 
The small portion of the park of Hatton which lies within this pa- 
rish contained several very .handsome specimens of the sweet chest* 
nut and beech ; and at Bellfield, though the position is exposed, 
there were some very fine sycamores ; but these have all gone to 
the saw mill, — the former recently, and the latter previous to the 
death of the late Earl of Morton. At Calderhall, however, there 
are several large elms ; and also, to the west of the bouse, there is 
a fine group of tall Scotch firs, far beyond an average size. And 
at Meadowbank, there are silver firs sufiiciently remarkable to have 
been noticed in a late edition of Gilpin^s Forest Scenery* Of 
these the finest is at the bottom of the flower garden, and is a very 
remarkable tree, both from the unusually picturesque mode of its 
growth, and also from its having attained its present large size 
within the period of sixty-five years. 

II. — Civil History. 
Bistorical Notices, — Reference has already been made to an 

account of the parish of Kirknewton in the *^ Reports on the State 
of certain Parishes in Scotland, made to His Majesty's Commis- 
sioners for Plantation of Kirks,'' &c., in pursuance of their ordi- 
nance dated April 12, 1627. This document was printed at 
Edinburgh, 1835, and presented to the Maitland Club by Alex- 
ander Macgregor, Esq. It contains some curious information. 
The whole parochial establishment appears to have been then in 
a most dilapidated condition. *^ The kirk is ruinous, the roof al- 
ready decayit." — ** Thair is a schoole in the parachoun, but lyke- 
lie to dissolve the next terme for want of maintenance." 

In the ^* Report of the several Parochial Ministers in Scotland 
to the Committee of the General Assembly's Queries for prepar- 
ing a Plan for augmenting of Ministers' Stipends," there is an 



44() EDINBUR0H8HIRB. 

account of KirknewtoD, drawn op by the then minister, the Rev. 
Alexander Bryce, dated July 28^ 1749; and one of East Calder, 
prepared by a committee of the Presbytery of Linlithgow, dated 
April 25, 1760. 

Eminent Men. — The Rev. Alexander Bryoe was ordained mi- 
nister of this parish in 1745, where he remained till his death in 
1786. He was buried within the church, and the east wall bears 
a small tablet with this inscriptions *^ Here lie the remains of the 
Reverend Alexander Bryce, who was minister of this parish for 
forty years, and one of the chaplains in ordinary to His Miyesty. 
He was a man of true piety, of great benevolence, and of general 
science. He died in 1786, aged 78, universally regretted." Mr 
Bryce was distinguished as a geometrician, and was the author of 
several scientific papers published by the Royal Society of Lon- 
don. He prepared << A Map of the North Coast of Britain, from 
the Raw Stoir of Assynt to Wick in Caithness, with the Harbours 
and Rocks, and an Account of the Tides in the Pentland Frith,*' 
which was afterwards published by the Philosophical, now the 
Royal, Society in 1744^ and is the most accurate, it is believed, 
that exists of that part of the island" (Chambers' Biography.) 
Near to the tablet just referred to is another, placed there re* 
cently, ** Sacred to the Memory of Major*General Sir Alexander 
Bryce, Inspector- General of Fortifications, Son of the Rev. Mr 
Bryce, an officer greatly distinguished in the service of his conn* 
try. He died in London, 183% and was buried in St John's 
Wood chapel." 

To his twin«brother, James, a surgeon of eminence in Edinbuigh, 
belongs the merit of inventing a test by which it might be conclusive- 
ly determined whether the cow-pox appearing after vaccination was 
merely a cutaneous pustule caused by the injection of the vinu^ 
or was the result of the system of the patient having been oonsti*- 
tutionally affected by the operation ; and also a simple oiethed of 
preserving and propagating the virue itself in a warm climate, 
which was then unknown. 

Dr Cullen, the celebrated physician, was proprietor of Ormis- 
tpn Hill in this parish. Here he delighted to relax from the la- 
borious duties of his profession, and there are still remaining 
abundant and interesting traces of his peculiar tastes, and of the 
care bestowed by him on its embellishment His i^emains Ue in 
the churchyard of Kirknewton. 

Robert Cullen, Esq., the son of the physician, a Senator of the 
College of Justice^ was also buried in Kirknewton churchyard i and 



KIRKNBWTON. 441 

a monumeDt bears, that he was ^^an emioent judge, ^d elegant 
scholar, and an accomplished gentleman/* 

Allan Maconochie, Esq., equally distinguished as a man of 
science and general accomplishment, and as an able and acute 
lawyer, was proprietor of Meadowbank in this parish, from which 
he took his official title when raised to the bench. At a very early 
age, hey with five other fellow-studentSy founded the Speculative 
Society, in which so many eminent men have since given the first 
displays of those powers which have afterwards adorned every walk 
of btellectual distinction. After visiting the continent, he entered 
at Lincoln's Inn, and had the benefit of studying under the great 
Lord Mansfield. He was admitted to the Scotch Bar in 1770 ; 
and, having been appointed successively Professor of Public Law 
in the University of Edinburgh and Sheriff of Renfrew, he was, 
in 1796, advanced to the bench, of which he continued for twenty 
years to be a distinguished ornament, having been appointed a 
Lord Commissioner of Justiciary, and also one of the first Lords 
Commissioners of the Jury Court when originally erected. He 
was born in 1748, and died in 1816. His remains are deposited 
in a private burying ground, selected by himself, in the grounds 
of Meadowbank. 

The Rev. William Cameron, minister of this parish from 1786 
to 1811, had a principal share in the preparation of the *^ Para* 
phrases,'' two of which, the 14th and 17th, are entirely his own 
composition. He was also the author of a volume of poems, pul>* 
lished after his death. 

Mr James Hamilton, schoolmaster at East Calder, published 
at Edinburgh^ in 1742^ a very respectable translation of the 
Georgics of Virgil, accompanied with notes on the subject of 
agriculture, of which he seems to have had more knowledge and 
experience than are generally found accessible by men of his 
profession^ 

J%e chief Land'owners. — The Earl of Morton ; Earl of Buchan ; 
Stuart Bayley Hare, Esq. of Calderhall; Archibald Wilkie, Esq. of 
Ormislon Hill ; Earl of Rosebery ; A. Davidson, Esq. of Hatton ; 
Alexander Maconochie, Esq. of Meadowbank ; Alexander Croil, 
Esq. of Linnburn ; heirs of Major Davidson of Causeyend ; William 
Swanston, Esq. of Little- Vantage; Humphrey Graham, Esq. of 
Stewart Hill ; James Gillespie, Esq. of Bumhouse ; Greorge Glen- 
dinning, Esq. of Millrigg ; George Glendinning, Esq. of Overshiell ; 
Alexander Johnston, Esq. of Hillhoqse ; Proprietors of East- Camps^ 

The Earl of Morton takes his title of dignity from the lands of 



442 BDINBUROHSHIRE. 

MortoD in this parish belonging to the family, as appears from the 
Minutes of the Scotch Parliament, 14th March 1457-8^ and from 
an instrument there referred to. 

Mansion Houses. — Beginning at the east side of the parish, and 
going westward, the mansion houseii are, Linnburn, belonging to 
Alexander Croil, Esq. ; Hillhouse, Alexander Johnston, Esq. ; 
Meadowbank, the seat of Alexander Maconochie, Esq., and which 
furnished to him, as it had done to his father, his official title while 
he occupied the Bench, from which he has very recently retir- 
ed; Ormiston Hill, Archibald Wilkie, Esq.; Calderhall, Stuart 
Bayley Hare, Esq. 

Parochial Beffisters.-^-^The paroqhial registers of more early 
date are in a state of considerable mutilation, the effects obviously, 
in no small degree, of neglect, and particularly of exposure to 
damp. This is the more to be regretted, that they appear to 
have been full in their entries and accurately kept, and some of 
them are fine specimens of the handwriting of the period. 

The Kirknewton volume (before the union of the parishes) has 
the earliest date, 1 642« It contains the minutes of session, in- 
cluding receipts and disbursements for the poor, and. a register of 
marriages, baptisms, and burials. The session record and the 
register are begun severally at the opposite ends of the book, and 
carried on till they meet. Th^ last entry in this volume is in 
1655. The next volume commences in 1663, and comes down 
to 1688. In the third volume the first date is 1691, and the 
latest 1720. 

The East Calder records begin at the same date as those of 
Kirknewton, viz. 1642. From this period, down to the union of 
the parishes in 1 750, they are more or less defective. 

III. — Population.* 

Population in 180], - - - 1071 
1811, - - 1300 

1821, - - - 1518 
1831, . - 1446 

1844, . - - 1441 

In the Account given in by Mr Bryce in 1749, already referred 
to, the following statement occurs in regard to the population of 
Kirknewton ; " It contains of examinable persons from seven years 
of age and upwards, 333; of whom 173 are men ; 160 are women. 

* la (he last Sutisticfll Account there occurs the folloving notice: ^' Population, 
—According to Dr Webster the population in 1755 was 1167 ; souls in 1786^ 942; 
in 1792, 612; average of births, 26; of deaths, 19; inhabited houses, 175; males, 




penters, . , , - . - 

42; flumers, 50; horses, 261; bUck-catUe, 533 ; sheep, 1563; ploughS)64; ctrts, 

85." 



RIKKNBWTON. 4^8 

There are in the parish below this age, 64 children ; 83 males, 
dl females." 

In the Account of East Calder by the committee of presbytery 
in 1750, the statement relative to the population is as follows ; 
*' There are about 620 examinable persons in the parish, of which 
number there are 416 within a mile of the church." 

Cugtomsy Charactery 8fc. of the People. — There is nothing very 
peculiar in the customs, games, or amusements of the parish, 
Quoiting in summer and curling in winter are favourite pastimes. 

The food used by the peasantry is chiefly farinaceous and ve- 
getable, — butcher-meat not forming an article of ordinary diet, 
though more common than formerly. 

The people, on the whole, enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the 
comforts and advantages of society, and, as a general feature of 
character, the praise is fully merited by them of contentment with 
their lot. The diffusion of knowledge by which the present age 
is so eminently distinguished, rendered still more available to this 
parish by its vicinity to the pietropolis, is an advantage which has 
been duly improved ; and the population, as a body, are entitled 
to be designated as an informed, intelligent, and well-disposed 
community. In their intercourse with each other they are kind 
and neighbourly, and, in their general demeanour and conduct, 
civil and obliging. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — Of the whole lands, about two-thirds are under 

tillage, the remainder being in permanent pasture. Generally 

speaking, the former description lies chiefly on the north, and the 

latter on the south. There are from 500 to 600 acres under 

wood. 

The northern half of the parish consists generally of a light free 
soil ; but there is hardly a farm, rarely even a field, in which a 
portion of the subsoil is not found to consist of a stiff retentive 
clay. The southern half is very generally of this description. 

The operations of agriculture are conducted according to the 
most approved principles ; and discoveries and improvements find 
their way into the parish all the more readily, that several of the 
proprietors retain their lands, or a part of them, in their own hands. 

As may be supposed, where the nature of the surface, the means 
of the occupant, and other circumstances, are considerably differ- 
ent, there is no absolutely uniform system of management or 
rotation of cropping. The following may be stated as what is 
most generally followed :—;/£r<f jear, oats from leaj Hcand^ po« 



444 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

tatoes or turnips; thirds barley or wheat; SLndJburihj haj or pas- 
ture. Where potatoes or turnips are not grown, &llow wheat is 
raised) succeeded by hay. or pasture. Peas and beans are now 
grown less oommonly than was the case in former times* 

A great proportion of the wet soils, which appear to hate been 
at one time regularly cultivated, is now seldom subjected to the 
plough, but allowed to remain in pasture. When occasionally such 
soils are broken up, it is usual to take two crops of oats followed 
by a fallow, and, the fourth year, to sow them down again with 
grass seeds and oats. 

Jtent ofLandr^The rent of arable land varies from 10s. to 
L.9 per Scotch acre. 

fVffffes.'^Thie wages of young unmarried men living as farm- 
servants in the house of their master are from L.5 to L.7, with 
bed and board. Married farm-servants or hinds get from L.15 
to L.16 in money, with a house and small garden, six and a-half 
bolls of meal, three bolls of potatoes, coals driven, and two diets 
daily during a month of harvest time. The weekly wages of la« 
bourers are 9s. or 10s. 

Draining has been, and continues to be, practised to a consider- 
able extent, and with the most favourable results. Much, how- 
ever, remains still to be done in this department. Furrow, or, as 
it may more properly be called, thorough draining, is executed 
after the following method : The distance between the drains va- 
ries from 15 to 18 feet, according to the nature of the soil, and the 
depth of the cut is from 2 to 2^ feet Where stones only are 
used, they are broken to a small size, and the drain, which, at the 
bottom, varies in width from 4to 7 inches, is 611ed to the height of 12 
or 15 inches. Where tiles are used (and these are generally placed 
on soles) the drains are about 2 feet deep. But the plan most 
approved is to combine these two methods, covering the tiles with 
(^ or 8 inches of small broken stones; and in this case the drain is 
commonly 2^ feet deep. 

Lhoe'iock. — The breeds of sheep include the black-faeed, the 
Leicester, and the Cheviot The cattle are chiefly of the Ayr- 
shire and Teeswater breeds, and crosses between these. 

Oh many of the farms in this parish the dairy is the principal, 
and on some the exclusive object ; and there are few on which this 
species of industry is not carried on to a greater or lesser extent 
The produce is carried to Edinburgh, where it finds a ready 
market A gentleman who, several years ago, had the laigeat 
dairy estabKshnoent in this parish,— one of the largest indeed, in 



KIRKNEWTON. 445 

Scotland at the time,— was in the habit of -stating a curious fact, 
with which his experience had made him acquainted. He had 
foimd, that mixing together in the same churn th« milk of different 
cows diminished its productiyeness, and this in proportion to the 
number of cows whose milk was so mixed. According to his opi- 
nion, the greatest quantity of butter would be obtained by churn- 
ing the milk of each cow separately. 

QuarrieSf <S«.-«There are, as has been already stated, abundant 
supplies both of freestone and of wbinstone. 

Reference has been made to the field of limestone to the east 
of the village of East Galder. There is a lime-work there on the 
property of the Earl of Morton. The lime is of excellent quality ; 
and, besides supplying the demands of the neighbourhood to a 
considerable distance, both for building and agricultural purposes, 
it is carried into Lanarkshire, where it is employed as a flux in the 
smelting of iron ore; and, since the introduction of gas, it has been 
found well suited for, and has been extensively used in, the process 
of its purification. 

There is now in progress of erection, on the property of Stuart 
B* Hare, Esq. of Calderhall, near the village of Kirknewton, a tile 
and brick-work, which promises to be of great advantage to this 
part of the country. The clay found is said to be well adapted 
for the purposes of this manufacture. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market'^Tawru^^Uhe nearest naarket-town is Edinburgh. 

Villager. — There are two villages in the parish — Kirknewton 
and East Cakler. The former stands a tittle way east from the 
church, occupying, together with its cottage gardens, a square 
space of no great extent^ and containing a population of about 200. 
East Calder consists chiefly of two rows of houses, with gardens be- 
hind, running the one on the one side, and the other on the other 
of the road from Edinburgh to Glasgow, at the distance of eleven 
miles from the former. Its population is about 870. In each of these 
villages there are well-appointed shops, containing all the articles 
in ordinary demand for clothing, consumption, &c There are 
also resident tradesmen belonging to all the common departments 
of handicraft. Besides these villages, there is the hamlet of Wil- 
kieston, on the north side of the Glasgow road, near the ninth 
mtleatone from Edinburgh, having a population of about 77. 

Means of CommunicMtian. — As already mentioned, there are 
two puUic roads running through the parish, the one on the north 
side, from Edinburgh to Glasgow, the other on the south, from 



44& EDINBURGHSHIBB. 

Edinburgh to Lanark. With these great lines there are crosd 
parish roads connected at different points, so that the means of 
communication are ample and convenient On the former of 
the public roads, previously to the erection of the Edinhui^gh 
at)d Glasgow Railway, the mail, with a variety of other coaches, 
plied daily between these places; but now there is only one, 
which goes by Hamilton. There is a coach from Mid-Calder to 
Edinburgh three times a-week. On the Lanark road, a coach 
runs to and from that place to Edinburgh, going the one day and 
returning the other. The Edinburgh, and Glasgow Canal is — 
at Linnsmill, the aqueduct over the Almond, which is the nearest 
point of communication — about three miles distant ; the Batho 
station, which is the readiest place for communicating with the 
railway, is about five miles. 

There are carriers to Edinburgh from Kirknewton and from 
East Calder. 

Post-office, — There is a post-office in Kirknewton, with two 
arrivals, and the same number of departures daily. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish of ELirknewton, as already 
stated, comprbes what were formerly the two separate parishes of 
Kirknewton and East Calder. It belongs to the Presbytery of 
Edinburgh and the Synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. The union 
appears to have been contemplated long before it was earned into 
effect In the document printed by the Maitland Club, formerly 
referred to, of date 1627, it is stated, ^^ Thair hes bene, thir dy- 
veris yeiris bygane, purpose of uniteing Calder Cleir and Kirk- 
newton, and that most commodiouslie*" The union did not, 
however, take place till 1750, when a new church was built, cen- 
tral to the parish as now constituted, and other relative arrange* 
ments made. The fabric is plain and substantial, and sufficiently 
fitted to answer the practical purposes of its erection, while it is 
certainly to be regretted that the structure had not been planned 
with a little more regard to the very conspicuous situation in 
which it stands, and the inliportance of the parish church as a fea- 
ture in the landscape* 

The situation of the church is convenient for the bulk of the 
population. Its distance from the extremities of the parish, on 
the south-west, is about four miles. 

The church is seated to acconunodate about 430* The usual 
number of communicants is about 320. The patronage belongs 
to the Duke of Buccleuch and the Earl of Morton, who present 
alternately. 



KIRKNBWTON. 



447 



While, in consequence of the union of the two parishes, a new 
place of worship was built, the original churchyards, belonging 
to them respectively, still remain. The present church has no 
burying-ground attached to it, and is thus destitute of that most 
fitting and instructive arrangement, by which it is provided, that, 
as we approach the place where are published and explained the 
great truths, bearing on preparation for death and judgment to 
come, our pathway winds among monuments, reminding us, in 
every most affecting form, of these events, and by which also our 
dust, waiting in the hope of a blessed resurrection, finds its ap- 
propriate resting-place near the sacred edifice in which we were 
wont to listen to the glad tidings of life and immortality brought 
to light in the Gospel. The Kirknewton burying-ground is close 
by the village of that name, and, in the middle of it, the site of 
its former church is marked by some scanty remains of the fa- 
bric, now converted into enclosures for sepulture. In the church- 
yard of East Calder, adjacent to the village so called, stands, in 
like manner, the ruin of its ancient place of worship, with one of 
its gables richly mantled over with ivy, and the whole still in su«h 
a condition as to indicate at once the original character and pur* 
pose of the structure. Here, too, the interior has been formed 
into burying enclosures, affording additional security against far- 
ther dilapidation. In connection with the present subject, it may 
be worthy of notice, that a change very much for the better has 
been gradually making its way in the mode of conducting funerals. 
Formerly, there was upon these occasions a formal and protractod 
service of refreshments. These, in great variety, were handed 
round separately and in succession. Besides other objections, 
the expense incurred was a serious evil, coming at a time when, 
in very many instances, it could ill be borne, and yet being of a 
kind in which any shortcoming was felt to be at once a kind of 
disrespect to the dead and discourtesy to the living. The good 
sense of the people has applied the corrective, and with right and 
delicate feeling, the lead is taken by those whose known means 
and liberality, leaving no room for suspicion as to their motives, 
fit them to set the example in such a course. That most seemly 
and appropriate part of the service, however, which consists in 
improving the solemn dispensation, in a prayer offered up by the 
minister or some, pious patriarch of the parish, is continued, and 
this, it is to be hoped, will never be given up. 

When the union of the two parishes took place, and a new 
church was built, there naturally followed a corresponding change 



448 BDINBURGHSHiaE. 

in the whole parochial establidimeDt A new manse was erected 
in the immediate vicinity of the church, with glebe, && attached. 
A few years ago, the manse having become very insnffieient hi 
different respects, the heritors, of their own accord, resolved to 
subject it to a thorough repair, and, at the same time, to make 
an addition to the amount, and still more to the quality of its ae- 
commodatioDS ; and this has been done in a manner highly cre« 
di table to their taite and liberality. The internal arrangements 
are in commodious accordance with the style of modern improve* 
ment and convenience, and, in external appearance, it is now a 
very handsome structure, nowise unworthy of the conspicuous and 
commanding situation which it occupies. The site, it is under- 
stood, was selected, among other considerations, for the sake of 
the view, and the choice in this respect has been eminently sue- 
cessful. Barely is there to be met with any thing finer or richer 
in all the constituents of landscape beauty than the smroanding 
prospect. The stretch of coimtry which it embraces is of wide 
extent, with a surface broken and varied into the most pleasing 
aad striking forms of picturesque scenery, and wearing tbronghout 
an aspect of smiling fertility and cultivation. In this general ap- 
pearance there are some features which stand out in more distift* 
guished prominence. Among these the ey^ will not fail to mark 
the stately baronial mansion of Hatton, old and gray, looking out 
from among the still noble remains of its magnificent park 
trees, telling of princely state and wide domain passed away ; 
the deep masses of the Dalmahoy woods; the Frith of Forth, 
now bid, now seen, amid the openings to the leflt, and, on the 
right, the twin bills of Dalmahoy and Kames, towering singly in 
front of the finely diversified range of the Pentlands ; and the 
whole closed in and terminated by the far-famed capital of Scot- 
land, with all the peculiar characteristics of the ** romantic town'* 
spread out in full and clear display. 

The. glebe contains about eight acres. The stipend is 192 
bolls 3 lippies, half meal, half barley, and L.102, 6s. l^\A. 'm 

money. 

Liu of InewBiAewU so far as ascertained, 

Kirkn^wton. JBmI CaUv. 

Mr James Hamilton, 1573 to 1612 Mr James Wardlaw, 1582 to 

Mr Andrew Balfour, 1613 to 1624 Mr John Brown, 1596 to 

Mr James lAyng, 1625 to Mr Robert GUmour, to 

Mr John Colvill, . 1648 to' 1663 Mr John Teniiande, . 1617 to 

Mr William Allisone, 1663 to 1666 Mr John Dunlop, . 16^ to 1648 

Mr Charles Lumlsden, 1666 to Mr Andrew Kynnoir, J6«9 |o W6» 

Mr John Wilkie, - 1669 to Mr Andrew Kynneir, lOea to 

e 



KIRKNBWTON. •• *49 

Kirknevton. East Caldor. 

Mr James Waughe, 1673 to 1682 Mr James Browne, 1665 to 

Mr John Alexander, 1682 to Mr John Kinnair^ 1694 to 1725 

Mr John Bannerman. to 1689 Mr Alexander Douglas 1726 tQ 1749 

Mr James Anderson, 1691 to 1697 

Mr John Tborbum, 1699 to 1744 . 

Mr Alexander Bryce, 1745 to 

Mr Bi^ee became minister of the united porisbos after the death of Mr Douglas. 
Mr Alexander Bryce, 1745 to 1786 

Mr William Cameron, 1786 to 181 1 

Alexander Lockhart Simpson, D.D., 1^12 

There is at East Calder a place of worship belooging to the 
United Associate Synod, originally erected in 1776* It draws its 
congregation from a circuitof considerable extent, includingseveral 
of the neighbouring parishes, and is very respectably attended. 

Education. — Close by the parish church stands the .parish 
school, erected a few years ago, substantial and commodious. 
The instructioa affprded includes the higher as well as the more 
ordinary branches, and is conducted according to the most im- 
proved system,..and in the most efficient manner. The salary of 
the schoolmaster is the maximum. The number attending is 
upwards of 100. The fees are, English reading, grammar, &c 
2s. 6d. ; writing with the above, 3s. ; arithmetic with the above^ 
4s. ; French, taught singly, 7s. ; Latin, 7s. ; French and Latin, 
86. ; mathematics singly, 5s. ; mathematics with any other branch, 
2s. 6d., in addition to the fees of that branch. The provision 
here made for the education of poor children is very satisfactory. 
The kirk-session is authorised to recommend such as they believe 
to be proper objects ; and for these the teacher receives and the 
heritors pay half fees.. 

There is at East Calder a private school built originally by sub- 
scription, the property of which, with the dwelling-house and 
small garden attached, is held in shares by individuals connected 
with the parish, and taking an interest in its education. The 
number attending here is about 100, and the school is well taught. 

Besides these, there are schools, both at Kirknewton and at 
East Calder, for the instruction of females in the branches pecu- 
liar to their sex. 

While the provision for education thus afforded is sufficiently 
ample and convenient for the great bulk of the population, there 
is one part of the parish where a want is still seriously felt) viz. 
at the south-west extremity, the distance from any school being 
fully four miles. A school in the neighbourhood of Causey* 
end might be expected to draw from this district and the adjoin- 
ing portion of the parish of Mid- Calder, in which the want is 
equally felt, from 25 to SO scholars. 

EDINBURGH. F f ' 



450 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

The people in general are fully alive to the benefits of educa- 
tion. 

Charitable Institutions^ — There are four friendly societies. Of 
these, two have for their object relief to the members when laid 
off work by sickness or accidents, &c. The other two are what 
are called '^ Dead Societies/' and their purpose is to provide, .by 
a sort of mutual insurance, the means of defraying funeral ex- 
penses. The sum allowed, however, is more than sufficient, in 
ordinary cases, for its nominal object, and affords, beyond this, a 
seasonable supply to the family or relations of the deceased. 

Poor and Parochial Fufids, — The poor on the permanent roll, 
including children of widows, &c. amount to 51. The average 
Dumber of persons receiving occasional relief, on account of tem- 
porary distress, is about 15. The allowance varies, of course, ac- 
cording to circumstances, in both cases. A common allowance 
to paupers on the permanent roll is 5s. or 6s. per month ; in some 
cases it rises to 10s. or upwards. The annual expenditure for the 
poor on an average of seven years, viz. from 1836 to 1842, inclu- 
sive, was,— enrolled paupers, L.105, 15s. 3^d. ; occasional relief, 
L.9, 5s. 4^d. The average amount of church- door collections 
for this period was L.14, lis. 8^d. ; of mortcloth dues, &c. L.2, 
ds. 5^d. The sum required in addition to the church-door col- 
lections and mortcloth dues, being by much the greatest propor- 
tion, is raised by assessment laid on according to the valued rent. 
It cannot be said that there is very much remaining of the old 
Scotch indisposition to seek parochial relief, nor much evidence af- 
forded in this way that it is considered as ' degrading. Honour* 
able exceptions do, however, occasionally occur. In the support 
of the poor, all classes are creditably alive to the duties of private 
charity, and by none are they felt in a better spirit, or discharged 
with greater kindness, jthan by neighbours themselves in the hum- 
bler walks of life, and often but a little way removed from the 
condition of those with whom they are ready to share their own 
scanty supplies. 

Inns. — There are two inns in the parish, — one at Burnwynd, 
eight miles from Edinburgh, on the Glasgow road, and one at 
Little- Vantage, on the- Lanark road. There are five public-houses. 

Fuel — The common fuel is coal. Peat is also used, but to a 
very small extent, and this at the south-west extremity of the pa- 
rish. The coal is brought from a very considerable distance, and 
is proportionally expensive. 

May 1844. 



PARISH OF DALKEITH. 

I^RESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE, 

THE REV. NORMAN MACLEOD, MINISTER.* 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
' Name. — Dalkeith appears to be a word of Celtic origin. In 

the ancient charters it is generally written ^* Dalketh.'' In 
Froissart it assumes the French aspect of Alquest and D' Alquest,f 
and in Leland's Collections,^: a. d. 1503, it is called by John 
Young, the Herald, Acquick, and also Dacquick; — all which 
forms evidently arise from peculiar modes of pronunciation^ Ac<^ 
cording to Chalmers§ it is compounded of Dai, a dale^ and Caeth, 
confined, and signifies the confined or contracted dale ; thus describe 
ing its peninsular character, as being confined or bounded by the 
waters of the North and South Esk, which unite at the distance 
of about a mile beneath the town. Though this may be the de- 
rivation of the name, yet it appears to us to be too remote and 
too refined for a barbarous age. We have heftrd various plausi« 
ble derivations proposed ; but there seems to be no data for as* 
certaining t})eir accuracy. We would, therefore, merely state that 
the Gaelic DaiUchaiha, which means a field of battle, appears to 
us most likely to be the correct etymon. There is no intimation, 
indeed, from history or tradition, of any remarkable battle having 
been fought in this locality; but from the. frequent deadly feuds 
that existed in ancient times, an event of that kind is far from 
being an improbable occurrence. It is supposed that the family 
name of Keith had a similar derivation. || 

Boundaries* — The parish is bounded on the north-east by In- 
veresk; on the east, by Cranstoun ; on the south, by Newbattle; 

* This vtab'stical account (with the exception of the natural history) was furnish- 
ed by Mr Peter Steele, A. M., lately rector of Dalkeith Grammar School. 

f *^ Un cbastel cinq lieues de Hainedeburgh, qu*on dit au pays, Alquest.**— >" Sur 
mon chastel D* Alquest/* 

X Leland*s Collections, Vol. iv. 8vo, London, 1770, pp. 282 and 286. 

§ Caledonia, ii. 798-9. 

II See Wood*s Peerage, Family of Keith. See also Armstrong's Gaelic Diction- 
ary under Cath and Daih London, 1823. 4to. 



452 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

on the south-west, by Lasswade ; on the west by Liberton ; and 
on the north-weet and north, by Newton. Its figure is very irregu- 
lar, but somewhat approaches a gnomon, the limbs of which 
lie nearly south-east and south-west. The exterior boundary 
stretches from a little below the confluence of the North and South 
Esk, in the Duke of Buccleuch's pleasure grounds, nearly south- 
east to the Cowden-bog burn, or Cat-well, where it crosses the road 
to Cousland, being a distance of about two miles; and from the 
same point south-west to where it meets the road to Edinburgh 
by Gilmerton, also a distance of about two miles ; — while the 
shorter sides extend from the new railway bridge over the South 
Esk, at the foot of Woodbum Park, south-east to Whitehill, and 
south-west to the Brickfield, each line being about a mile and a 
half; the distance from Cousland Bridge to Whitehill being about 
a mile and a half, and from the Brickfield to the Deanburn, on 
the Gilmerton road, also about a mile and a half; while the dis- 
tance from the confluence of the North and South Esk, to the 
Railway bridge, is about one mile. 

The superficial extent of the parish, therefore, may be esti- 
mated at about five square miles. 

The general surface of the parish may be considered as a tole- 
rably level plain, interrupted by the course of the streams which 
intersect it, and gently rising to the south-east. With the excep- 
tion of the town and the pleasure-grounds surrounding the palace, 
it consists chiefly of fields and gardens. 

Botany* — The rural extent of the parish being not great, the 
botany of it becomes chiefly limited to a portion of the j)ark, and a 
small part along the banks of the South and North Esk. Here art 
and nature are indeed so intermingled as in some degree to render 
the stations of even native plants often doubtful, particularly where 
the outcasts of gardens and stray seeds can so readily find a con- 
genial soil and climate. The following British species, subject 
to the correction now stated, may be given ; some of which are 
characteristic of climate, and others useful for medicinal and eco- 
nomical purposes«t 

^ * The account of the botany, zoology, geology, hydrography and meteorology fur- 
nished by Dr Thomas Aitken, Edinburgh. 

f Those marked thus * are apparently introduced ; and those thus **, though 
admitted into British Botany, may be considered rather naturalised than natiye. Tbe 
Coftaneaxmlgarit has by some been considered native, and by others^only naturalised : 
one of the finest chestnut trees perhaps in Britain occurs in the grounds of Ard- 
gartan at the head of Loch Long, llie beech of France was remarked by Caesar 
to be awantiog in Britain, though it be now generally admitted as indigenous, at least 
in England. The Pnmtu ccratut is considered native, but it is probably the atten- 
dant of the Roman conquest. 



DALKEITH. 



453 



Plantago media 
Galeopsis Ladanum 
Arum maeulatum 
Mentha Tiridis 



Acer eampestre 
— — Pseudo-pIataDiu 
Populiu tremuU 
alba 



Doronicum Pardalianches Alnus glutinosa 



Garpinua B<>tulii8 
Prunus Padus 
■■ Cerastts 

Pyms Aria 
— ^ Malus 

aucuparia 

PiDus ay Westris 
Taxus bAocata 
Hypericum perforatum 
^— — pulchrum 
Anemone nemoroca 
Ranunculus auricomus 
Saxifraga granulata 
Asperula odorata 
Epilobinm hirsutum 
Petasites vulgarisf 
Convolmlus arrensia 
Primula veria 
* Vinca minor 
Oxalia Acetoaella 
Anagallis arvensis 
Geranium pratense 



Tanacetum vulgare 
Galium Mollugo 
Agrimonia Eupatoria 
Erythraia oentaurium 
Nasturtium officinale 
Plapaver Rbceas 
Medicago lupulina 
*Rbamnu8 Frangula 
*Cotoneaster vulgaris 
Viburnum Opulus 
•— — Lantana 
Rosa rubiginosa 
Ligustrum rulgare 
Ilex Aquifolium 
Corylus Avellana 
**Staphylea pinnata 
*Comus sanguinea 
Berberis vulgaris 
Spiraea salicifolia 
Fraxinus excelsior 
Betula alba 
Sambucus nigra 
Lonicera Periclymenum 
Pbalaris aruodinacea 
Phleum pretense 
Melica uniflora 
Carex pendula 



Clinopodium yulgare 
Ballota nigra 
Malva sylvestris 
Sanicula europoa 
^^(EDOthera biennis 
^Clematis Vitalba 
*Humulus Lupulus 
Polygonum Bistorts 
Solanum Dulcamara 
Valeriana officinalis 
Seropbularia nodosa 
Arctium Lappa 
Cooium Maculatum 
Digitalis purp urea 
SalU oaprea 
— * Lambertiana 
Ulmus campestris 

' montana 
Quercus Robur 
■ seBBiliflora 

Fagus sylvatica 
Castaoea vulgaris 
TiUa europsBa 

The wide-spreading and magnificent beech trees on the Esks 
more particularly, point out this to be their congenial, if not na- 
tive region ; while the butter*bar, in luxuriance along the sandy 
margins, indicate the climate suitable for wheat cultivation : and 
perhaps nowhere in Great Britain is agricultural enterprise con- 
ducted with more success. Even the Turkey oak {Quercus cerris) 
thrives well here ; the oak forest of the park, consisting almost 
entirely of the common British oak {Quercus Bobur) has all the 
picturesque effect of gnarled and unwedgeable grandeur ; and in 
it may be found some *^ monarch of the wood," which could have 
been no sappling when Dr Johnson visited Scotland, and which 
even now may bear a comparison with the aged and lordly 
forms in some of the parks in England. There are also many 
fine specimens of the cedar of Lebanon {Pinus cedrus)^ t as well 
as of the larch {Pinus larix). Some of the former are at pre- 
sent in fruit, bearing apparently very good cones ; and the latter, 
from the open and exposed situation in which they grow, have 
taken the spreading and contorted form of the weathered oak 
which has braved many a storm. 

t Tbe TustUago fragrant^ a native of Italy, and here probably the outcast of the 
gttrden, grows luxuriantly, and covers a considerable space in tbe .woods at Eskbank. 

X Since writing tbe above, the Indian cedar (Ptniu Deodara), and a few plants of 
the Araucaria UitMcaia, have been planted within the new garden ground. They are 
growing well ; and as an indication of dimate and season, the Rhododendran DaurU 
cum^ freely exposed, was in full flower on (Hh January 1844, 



454 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

The walnut (Juglans regia) bears fruit abundantly on the Nortb 
Esk ; and on the South, are very fine stately specimens of the 
horse chestnut {JEsadus hippocastus). In hedges of the park, 
the witch-hazel (JBamamelis virginica) occurs, while the Portugal 
laurel (Prvnus Lusitanica)^ the purple rose-bay {Rhododendron 
ponticum)j and Azalea poniica^ skirt the lawns with almost all 
the beauty of their native shores. A new garden with a southern 
aspect, on the banks of the North Esk, is now in progress ; and, 
under the direction of the present experienced gardener, it is to be 
hoped that something worthy of the establishment will be effected. 
The collection of plants, indeed, in the old garden was of consi- 
derable extent ; the Cape and Australian plants are at present 
accommodated in a lately erected conservatory close on the banks 
of the South Esk, — and the collection of Cacti^ recently begun, 
already embrace a great proportion of the species. 

Zoology. — As a mutual relation subsists between animal and ve- 
getable existence ; the zoological inquiry is subject nearly to the 
same limited interest as the botanical. The animals here, like 
the plants, are such, in general, as are common to the midland* 
district of the lowlands of Scotland. 

It may be noticed, however, that, in the deer-park, three va- 
rieties of the fallow-deer {Cervm dama) occur, the dun, the spot- 
ted, and the pure white. Though usually now seen only in the 
parks of the nobility, there can be little doubt but that the fallow- 
deer are indigenous to our island. Buchanan mentions that in 
his time, they were not only in a wood near Falkland, where they 
might likewise have been introduced, but also in some of the 
Western Islands, and in particular in one of the Cumbrays,*— '^ In 
aestuario Glottae sunt Curobra Major et Minor, modico spatio 
deremptse: major frugum, minor platyceroton ferax." This 
statement is farther confirmed by Cuvier,— ^^ Cette espece qui 
est le platgceroSf et non le dama des Ancietis, est commune dans 
tons les pays d'Europe;"t and passing over the well-known 
bunting of Chevy Chase^ a philosophical writer about the middle 
of the seventeenth century observes, that, ^< not many years ago, 

* In the earlier days of King James VI. a trained nightingale seems to have been 
kept at Dalkeith, whose song is commemorated by the royal muse. See De Luseinia 
in Hieroglyph. ArAnidL The Siskin (FringiUa spinas) has been observed to breed in 
the wooded banks of the Esk. 

f Le R^gne Animal, par Cuvier, il Paris, 1617, torn. i. p. 255. Baron Cavier, 
however, in the edition of this work published at Paris in 1829, is inclined to con- 
sider Barbary as the original source of the iallow-deer. It is still found there in its 
native sute; <* nous avons,'^ says he, ** re9u un daim aauvage tu6 di^ns les twis au 
fud de Tunis." 



DALKEITH. 



4^5 



the whole valleys near the foot of Cheviot were forests abounding 
with wild deers." 

A pair of bisons from America, {Bos bison, Lin.), have lately 
been introduced into the park. They much resemble the aurochs 
{Bos ttrus) of the continent of Europe, which, from the remains 
found in this country, is supposed to have been once native in 
Britain.* They are already perfectly tarne^ and dread the ap- 
proach of man as little as the doniestic oxen {Bos taurus), with 
which they quietly herd. 

Geology, — The whole parish consists entirely of the carbonife- 
rous or coal formation, and forms nearly the central part of the 
extensive coal-field from which the town of Edinburgh is in a 
great measure supplied with both fuel and gas-coal. From the 
successive strata on the south of the Esks, dipping to north-west, 
and the strata on the north, so far as observed, occurring in the 
same order, only at one part, from dikes and dislocations, rising 
at much higher angles, but dipping to the south-east, — while the 
stratification towards the streams - approaches in some places 
nearly to the horizontal position ; it is inferred that the strata lie 
in conformable curves relatively to each other, and thus form a 
large and extensive basin, which is gradually diminished by every 
succeeding stratum. This series of stratification consists of alter- 
nations of sandstone, shale, and coal, with beds of limestone, and 
nodules and bands of clay-ironstone. According to surveys of 
the south-eastern side of the Esk basin, in the possession of the 
Duke of Buccleuch and Marquis of Lothian, the interstratified 
limestone taken together amounts to about ten feet in thickness, 
independently of the mountain or encrinal limestone, on which 
the whole of this series of coal-seams rests, and which are in num- 
ber no less than thirty-eight. These seams vary in thickness 
from two inches to eight feet,t and give an aggregate amount of 

* Sibbald, indeedi mentions the pure white Scottish bison in connection with the 
natiye white breed of oxen, but only on reported eyidence, and concludes with "An 
jubati bisoDtes nunc extent nescio.'*— iS'co^ Iliitst, But Simson, who wrote about 
half a century earlier, mentions in his Hieroglyphica Animalium, " That King James 
had these bisons tame at Stirling, and that Curobemald was the last place where they 
were found. *' In Cumemald tantum inveniebantur, sylvis absumptis ; Rex habet 
Sterlini satis domitos." 

t The thickness of the great coa)*seam at Cowden, as given by Milne, is 8 feet 
8 inches. This is, however, merely the length of the plummet from the roof, and 
not the true thickness, which is the perpendicular to the planes of stratification, and 
which, in this instance, would not exceed eight feet ; but in the case of a wedge- 
shaped stratum, the thickness at any part is a straight line, making on the same side 
of it equal angles with these planes. It might be partly from not attending to this, as 
well as ^* the breaking down of the coal already pierced," that Sinclair remarks,-* 



4S6> EDINBUBQHSHiBE. 

about eighty-two feet in thickness for the whole of the carbona* 
ceous matter considered as united in one stratum ; — an immense 
mass of Tegetable remains^ from whatever sources they may have 
been derived, and under whatever circumstances they may have 
been accumulated. 

The vegetable origin of coal is now almost as generally admit- 
ted as that of peat ; and^ by the- help of the microscope, the ve- 
getable structure may be easily detected in both the slate and 
eannel coal. It is by no means an improbable supposition, inde- 
pendently- of chemical analysis, that the different qualities of coal 
are chieiy owing to the different kinds of vegetables which enter 
into their composition. Both in the shale and sandstone of this 
formation, as might have been expected, the vegetable fossil re* 
mains are abundant, and embrace various species of Lepidoden- 
dron, Stigmaria, and Sigillaria. A beautiful stem with leaves, re* 
ferrible to the Euphorbiaceae, was recently exposed in the sand- 
stone quarries. Very distinctly charactered specimens of Gfrnnti- 
ne6B have also been found in the clay ironstone at Smeaton ; and 
Ammoniies in the limestone of Darcy quarry, besides such animal 
relics as theProducti and Enerifdtes. In many instances, indeed, 
the external character of the vegetable remains is preserved with 
a delicacy and freshness which it would baffle art to imitate. A 
fresh cast taken of the stem of a Zamia, a Cycas, an arborescent 
fern, or sugar-cane, would not give a more correct idea of their 
respective modes of growth, or indicate more clearly the vegeta« 
tion of a warmer climate than that of Britain, though it would be 
somewhat diflBcult to say under what suns, and in what forests 
these remains of an age so distant flourished ; or by what currents 
they were imbedded in the soft sand or clay which closed them 
up in safety, and now preserves their form entire in the solid rock. 

A comparatively recent but interesting calcareous formation is 
to be met with on the southern boundary of the parish, near the 
farm-house of Wet-holm. From the branched horns and woody 
fragments which are found imbedded in this deposit, it appears to 
belong to a period as remote as when the different species of deer 
ranged the neighbouring forests. It lies immediately under, or 
rather is skirted by, a surface stratum of two feet of peat. Some 
of this deposit consbts of the carbonate of lime in a soft state, 

** I hsve known in my experience a coal bored, which the borer by that nile» (via. by 
what the instrument seemed to pierce), hath judged fiur feet in thickness, yet, 
when it .came to be sinked, hath not given one*** 



DALKEITH. 457 

mixed with Tegetable matter. Other portions are Brmly uuited 
by the oxide of iron, and others are distinct ca)c-tuff, formed ob- 
viously by a deposition from fresh water, similar to what occurs in 
various calcareous springs of this country, and so abundantly, on 
the great scale, in different parts of Italy. 

A compact variety of the encrinal limestone, of the above se* 
ries of stratification, when cut and used as marble, seems to resist 
well the wasting action of our climate. The oldest monumental 
tombstone in the churchyard is of this stone, bearing the date of 
1609, and, while much later monuments around it are mouldering 
to decay, with their inscriptions almost completely obliterated, it 
still remains fresh and entire, with its angles nearly as sharp as 
when they were cut 

An extensive bed of clay is found in the alluvial formation at 
Newfarm, and on the town-common near Gallowshall, where both 
bricks and drain-tiles are made. At the former place the bluish 
clay, seven feet thick, is seen lying beneath laminated sand, and 
passing into a reddish pebbly or stony clay, seventeen feet thick, 
which rests on sandstone. Here the drain-tiles are very expedi- 
tiously formed by a piece of mechanism, consisting of a series of 
rollers and revolving belts of a given breadth. The number of 
tiles made by this machine per day amounts to no less than 10,000. 

Hydrography. — In confirmation of the correctness of the above- 
mentioned geological structure of the basin of the Esks, the spring 
from which the town of Dalkeith is partly supplied with water af- 
fords additional proof. This rather remarkable spring was artifi- 
cially formed in 1826, while boring for coals near the channel of 
the North Esk. On penetrating to the depth of about 50 feet^ 
the water began to flow, but, on reaching 180 feet, it rose with 
much impetuosity in a jet of about 18 inches above the level 
of the surface ; and though now, through inattention, filled up ta 
the depth of 35 feet, it continues to flow in a constant stream at 
the rate of 6 cubic feet or 87 gallons per minute. The water hero 
rises by the hydrostatic pressure of the fluid lodged in the curved or 
basin-shaped strata ; and in this manner a real Jrtesian well has- 
been formed. At Artois, the place from which these wells take 
their name, the quantity of water so raised is sufiicient to turn the 
wheels of corn-mills. 

The temperature of this spring as it issues from the mouth of 
the bore is 48^ Fahrenheit, or three-tenths less than the mean 
temperature at the level of Leitb, which, according to the receiv- 



458 EDrNBURQHSHIRE. 

ed data for estimating elevation by the temperature of copious 
springs, gives 81 feet ; and, when measured by the barometer, the 
altitude above the mean sea-level was found to be 95 feet 

Another spring on the eastern boundary of the parish, near the 
farm-house of Smeaton, has just now been formed precisely in the 
same manner. When boring at some distance from the channel 
of the united Esks, but where the strata had also a small inclina* 
tion, the dip not exceeding 15% the water rose at the. depth of 
90 feet, and began to flow in a constant though much less copi- 
ous stream. The temperature of this spring and its elevation 
above the sea-level were both ascertained to be the same as those 
of the other. 

Not only the water of these springs, but all the water which 
here issues from great depths, is more or less of a chalybeate cha- 
racter, and, from exposure to the air, leaves a deposit of the oxide 
of iron. This is roost strikingly seen in the water which flows 
from the levels of the coal mines, and in the whole course of th« 
small rivulet which forms part of the north boundary of the parish, 
it deeply stains the channel with this ferruginous deposit. The 
water of the well, however, from which the town of Dalkeith is 
partly supplied, has no doubt gained in purity by the partial filling 
up, though, by these means, much diminished in the quantity of 
discharge. 

The present form of the beds of the Esks seems chiefly owing 
to the action of the streams themselves. Both the North and 
South Esk, the one taking its rise in the Lammermuir range and 
the other in the Pentland hills, only a few miles distant, often de- 
scend in a rapid and full current; and the action of these currents 
on parts of the great detrital deposit which forms a portion of the 
banks of both streams, is such, when combined with the action of 
the rains and frosts of winter, as to produce great land-slips, carry-* 
ing full-grown trees in a growing position towards the channel of 
the stream. The road which approaches Dalkeith from £din« 
burgh, winding on an inclined plane along one of these deposits, 
is so insecure from these combined actions, that it has been pro* 
posed to have the line of road changed. The effect of the North 
Esk, even on the rocks, at the Iron Mill, where it acts along the 
direction of the slightly inclined strata, is very remarkable. The 
current washing away the soft slate clay, containing imbedded no- 
dules of reddle, occasionally causes great masses of the incumbent 
sandstone to be precipitated as a ruin into the bed of the stream, 
to be afterwards carried away by succeeding floods. 



DALKEITH. 45§ 

The fall of the Edks is here, to a considerable extent, made 
available as a mechanical power in dififerent corn mills, in a woollen 
manufactory, and in raising water for the supply of the town of 
Dalkeith. Were reservoirs, however, formed among the hills from 
which these streams flow, by which a constant supply of water 
might be obtained during every season of the year, the efficiency 
of the Esks, in reference to. mechanical power, would be very 
much increased, and rendered much more valuable. The North. 
Esk, rising in the Pentlands at an altitude of more than 1100 feet 
above the level of the sea, and with a course of nearly nineteen 
miles in length-, has a fall of about 100 feet per mile from its 
sources to Carlops ; and from this to Dalkeith, nearly 60 feet per 
mile ; and from Dalkeith to the sea^ 23 feet per mile. 

The various chemical agents employed at present in diflerent 
manufactories on the Esks may have in some degree injured the 
pastime of angling ; but though they may thus compel the disciples 
of Walton to extend their walks to the purer stream of the Gala, 
they have otherwise added to the wealth and prosperity of the 
country. 

Meteorology. — From the observations already made in regard to 
atmospheric influence on vegetable and animal life, the climate of 
Dalkeith might be pretty justly inferred. The temperature of the 
springs already stated, which was 48"" Fahrenheit, may be consi* 
dered, not only as the mean temperature of the bed of the Esk 
at Dalkeith, but also of all those places having the same elevation 
above the level of the sea, as Smeaton. The barometer and ther- 
mometer from which the following meteorological table is construct- 
ed are placed 95 feet above the level of these springs, and 190 feet 
above the mean level of the sea, while the rain-gauge is stationed 
only a few feet lower in the adjoining garden. 

In the absence of a series of observations for a period of years^ 
it may not be uninteresting to compare the following table for 12 
months with some observations made in this neighbourhood about 
160 years ago by Sinclair, who was Professor of Natural Philosophy 
in the University of Glasgow, and one of the first in this country 
to repeat the experiments of Pascal, to ascertain by the barometer 
the relative height of mountains, and to register its varying column 
in connection with atmospheric changes for indicating the weather, 
and for the purposes of navigation, in the form of the marine ba- 
rometer. In December 1669, Sinclair observed the highest alti- 
tude of the barometer, or baroscope as he names it, to be 29,9 



460 



EDINBURGHSHIRE. 



inches, and the lowest in March foHowiog to be 27.9 inches. In 
February 1671 he found it stand as high as 80 inches, and in May 
following as low as 27.5 inches ; in the one season the range be- 
ing 2 inches and in the other 2^ inches. The great, height of the 
mercurial column during the month of October, and also in gene- 
ral during winter, did not escape the notice of Sinclair, though 
not aware of the analogous fact in regard to the cold, dense, dry 
air of the circumpolar regions.* In 1809, the annual fall of rain 
a( Dalkeith, according to Professor Playfair, was 28.5 inches; 
while at Largs on the west coast, during the same year, it was no 
less than 40.6 inches. During the twelve months-of the following 
table, the annual fall was 25.54 inches; while at Rothesay, 41.35. 

Meteorological Table, from November 1839 to November 1840, 
from daily observations at 8^ a. m. and p. m. 











Rain- 




1 


IContttt. 


Barometer. 


TtitBntit 


Therm. 


gauge. 


Prevalent winds. | 




High. 
3(U64 


Low. 


Mean. 


High. 

a£o 


Low. 


Inches. 


Days. 1 


Not. . 


xjm 


58.5 


96.6 


2.36 


13froniS.W.toN.W. 


10ftom&B.toN.E. 


Dec. . 


30.S84 


».7W 


49.9 


48.8 


27.7 


1.91 


12 — S.W. — N.W. 


15 — S.E.— E. 


Jan. . 


im.88B 


88.00 


50i3 


50.8 


96.2 


&45 


23 — S.W. — W. 


4 — 8. 


Feb* 


30.008 


S8.49I 


50.35 


49.8 


96.1 


1.51 


9 — &W. — W. 


16 — S.B.— B. 


Mareh, 


30.633 


99.503 


53.95 


48.9 


31.8 


0.29 


10 — S.W.-N.W. 


19 . S.E.— N.E. 


is?: 


30.325 


99.315 


57.5 


».7 


36.6 


ai 


10 — S.W. — W. 


11 . £. .N.JL 


30.309 


99.150 


54.8 


63J 


40.7 


&70 


13 — S.W.— N.W. 


15 — E. — N.B. 


June, 


30^041 


99.199 


69.9 


68.7 


49.0 


1.97 


92 — 8,W. — N.W. 


6 — S.B.— N.B. 


July, 


30.088 


99.093 


60.1 


640 


50.6 


4.21 


23 — S.W. — N.W. 


7 — E. —N.E. 


August, 


30.S17 


28.685 


65.9 


.61.6 


50l2 


1.61 


90 — S.W.— N.W. 


4 — 8.E.— N.B. 


te^ . 


30.003 


98.964 


57.5 


42.2 


2.81 


92 — S.W. — N.W. 


7 — E. —N.B. 


Oct. . 


30.505 


9a019 


5&0 


54.6 


38.5 


1.612 


M — S.W.— N.W. 


6 — 8.E.— N.B. 


Annual 
retults. 


30.633 


98.491 


57.5 


6R.0 


26.1 


25.54 


211 fkom S.W. to N.W. 


116 — 8.E.toN.E. 



Thus the barometric range is 2.142 inches, and the mean tem- 
perature 47.55% while the temperature of the well at the level of 
the Esk is 48^— a satisfaetory coincidence of result from methods 
so different 

II. — CiYiL History. 
No connected history of the town and parish of Dalkeith, beyond 

what is found in the Gazetteers of Scotland, has hitherto appeared. 

* Vide SiDolair's Hydrostaticfl, and ** Proteus Bound,* appended to his ^ Prin- 
ciples of Astrononay.'* Previous to the application of the barometer to indicate the 
State of the weather, the air thermometer of Sjtanctorius seems to haye been in com* 
mon use for this purpose, which was an imperfect instrument for such an objecty 
from its being readily influenced both by heat and atmospheric pressure. This Sinclair 
pointed out ; and proposed to render this instrument more useful by fiUing it with 
the spirit of wine, and sealing it hermetically, by which he obtained an instrument 
similar to the present spirit-of-wine thermometer. It is, indeed, not a little curious 
that Sinclair in some measure anticipated the late Sir John Leslie in his very useftil 
instrument for meteorological purposes, the differential thermometer. In his *^ Ars 
Nora et Magna," published at Rotterdam, 1669, Sinclair thus describes, under the 
name of Thermoaoope, an instrument exactly similar to one of the forms of the dif- 
ferential thermometer : ** Fuit euim thermosoopium utrinque hermetic^ ocdusum. 
Nam tnfeme rotundam habuit ampullam t supeme etiam aliam : sed alterA multo 
minorem. Inter has tenuem admodum fistulam. Ejus dimidium inferius aqua, Tel 
potius prestantissimo rini spiritu, superius ▼er6 aere repletum.**^Lib« ill. p. 273. 



DALKEITH. 461 

From the want of early records, few events are known, unless such as 
are connected with the general history of the country, and the no* 
ble families that possessed the manor of Dalkeith. The following 
sketch will contain all the information that we ha?e been able to 
collect upon the subject. 

Of the origin of the town of Dalkeith we have no intimation, 
either from authentic documents or popular tradition.* Its Cel- 
tic name would lead us to refer it to a remote antiquity.*f But 
the earliest information we can obtain respecting it, intimates 
that, during the twelfth century, its manor was in possession of 
the family of Graham. 

By tracing back the history of this family, as has been done by 
peerage writers, through charters and other documents, many of 
which are without date, we come at last to the name of William 
de Graham, who lived in the reign of David L., (1124 — 1158), 
and is a witness to the charter of the foundation of Holyrood- 
house, founded in 1128. Before his time, no authentic men- 
tion of the name of Graham has yet been found in Scotland.^ 
Whence he came, and what were his history and character, seem to 
be altogether unknown. That he was a person, however, of some 
consideration in the court of King David, is evident from the fre- 
quent occurrence of his name as a witness in the charters of that 
eminent prince. He probably survived to about the middle of the 
twelfth century, as the latest charter to which his name is found 
attached is a confirmation charter of Prince Henry, son of David, 
to the priory of Durham, in or before the year 1 152, during which 

* It is stated in the *^ Report on the Municipal Corporations in Scotland," article 
Dalkeith, page 27, — that ** the town of Dalkdth lays claim to great antiquity. 
Originally the baronial right belonged to the fiunOy of Keith : subaequenUy it de- 
▼oWed to that of Morton, &c.* The author of this report has not told us where he 
received his information. So far as our inquiries go, we have not seen the slightest 
intimation that the femily of Keith had ever any connection at all) either with the 
town or the barony of Dalkeith. 

t The earliest notice we have found of the name of Dalkeith is in a charter of 
King David L to Holyrood Abbey. It is entitled, «< De Escambio de Dalketh et 
de Ruchale pp. Newbotill,** and is No. 6 of the Bannatyne Club Edition of that 
cbartulary. £din. 1840, p. 9. The terms of this document are as follows, viz. 

^* IHvid, Rex Scottonim, &c &o. Sciatis me dedisse Deo et See Cruci de Edene> 
buro, ■ Ig acras de terra de Dolcbet inter nemus et planam terram in escam- 

biode Rbuchale ; quam Monachis de Newbottil in perpetuam eleemosynam donavi, 
&c. TestibusJohanneEpisoopo; EdwardoCancellariOf&c. &c.** John, Bishop of 
Ghugow, died in 11 47 ; Edward the ChancelloT held that office in ▲• x>. 1 l4d-4 ; so 
that the charter may have been granted in or before a. d. 1143-4. 

X We are not to infor, however, that this surname had no existence in Scotland 
prior to the time specified in the text. It is probably a corruption from Grim, 
Grime, or Grimus, ^fierce), a name or epithet applied to Kenneth V. (998-1000, )§ 
and which might easily pass into a proper name. By resolving the i into its dement- 



§ Pinkerton's Enquiry, vol ii. page 189. 



462 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

year Prince Henry died. He is said to have had two sons, Petef 
and John. Peter de Graham is considered the founder of the 
Dalkeith family of Graham ; while John became the founder of 
the house of Montrose. 

It is asserted in the Caledonia, * that William de Graham re* 
ceived from his sovereign David I., a grant of the manor of Dal- 
keith. The statement is highly probable ; but the learned author 
does not mention his authority, nor does he state whether his as* 
sertion is inferential, or derived immediately from documentary 
evidence. That this property, however, if not in the possession 
of William, was certainly in the possession of Peter de Graham, 
his son, or near relative, is clearly shown by the chartulary of 
Newbattle. There it is recordedf that Peter de Graham grant- 
ed to the monks of Newbattle, in the reign of William, (1165- 
1214), *^ pro salute Domini mei Willielmi Regis, et pro anima mea, 
et pro animabus praedecessorum meorum, et pro anima matris roeae 
Geria, et pro salute filiorum meorum in perpetuam elymosinam, 
terram de Balnebuth, (hodie Benbow — vel Bellybucht ?)" These 
lands lay on the Esk in bis manor of Dalkeith. Peter de Gra- 
ham had probably also possessions in Annandale.| He had two 
sons, Henry and William, who witnessed a charter of the mother 
of King William, the Countess Ada, who died iu 1178.§ 

ary parts, we obtain the form Gra-emey which is a very ancient and not unusual spelling 
of the word. It is proper, however, to observe, that in the charters of Holy rood and 
Melrose, the spelling is commonly ^^ Graham.**— The person from whos^ heroism 
Grahame's Dike is said to have received its name is supposed to be fabulous. Ca- 
ledon. Vol. i. p. 119.— The introduction of the surname of Graham in the reign of 
Malcolm III., mentioned by Boece in bis History, 1. 12, folio 256, a, is also con- 
sidered fabulous. — Sir D. Dalrymple*s Annals of Scotland, Vol. i p. 29, note. 
• * Chalmers's Caledonia, VoL i. p. 545. In the passage here referred to, this lealn- 
ed writer states that ** William de Graham obtained from David I. the lands of 
Aberoom and Dalkeith in the Lothians,*' &c. Again, in Vol. iu p. 879, he states that 
<^ the manor of Abercorn, so early as the reign of David I., belonged to Robert 
Avenel." We do not pretend to reconcile these contradictory passages, or to deter- 
mine which of them is correct ; but the probability is in favour of the latter. At all 
events, that the manor of Abercorn belonged to Roger Avenel in the thirteenth ceo- 
tury, is proved by a charter in which he grants to the nuns of Manuel (i. e. Im- 
manuel) near Linlithgow, ^* unam celdram frumenti recipiendam de borreo suo de 
Abercorn, &c."* — and on his decease in 1243, it was conveyed to the family of the 
Grahams of Dalkeith, by the marriage of the third Henry with Sir Roger's daugb* 
ter, the heiress of Kskdale.! 

f Charta Petri de Graham. Chart. Newbattle. 

X In the index of missing charters of King Robert I. we find the following : 
** Carta Adas Bnrbitonsori of the lands of Brachanwra in Annandale, &c. que fuit 
Petri de Graeme."— Robcitson^s Index, p. 6, 36. See also Regist. Magn. SigiUi« p. 
8-36. 

$ *' Testibus * * * Henrico et WDlielmo filiis Petri de Graham."*— Chartu- 
lary of Newbattle. Charta Ada Comitisss de Beresford, &o. 

* Spottiswood^s Religious Houses, in Hope's Minor Practicks, p. 514, (£dition, 
1734.) 

t Sir James Dalfour*s Annals, sub anno 1243, and Douelas^ Peerage, Edinburghi 
1764, p. 479. 

6 



DALKEITH. 463 

Henry de Graham, the eldest son of Peter, succeeded to his 
various possessions. He confirmed to the monks of Newbattle, in 
or before the year 1203, the grant-formerly made to them by hk 
father. His charter runs thus : ^^ Terram de Balnebuth sicut ri- 
vulus cadit in £sk, quam terram pater meus Petrus de Grahame 
prsescriptis monachis dedit," &c. He is also a witness in some of 
the charters of William the Lion.* 

He was succeeded by his son the second Henry, who confirmed 
to the church of Newbattle the grant already mentioned. His 
charter runs nearly in the same words as the preceding one, viz. 
^* Terram de Balnebuth sicut rivulus cadit in Esk, quam terram 
avus meus, et Pater meus, scil. Petrus et Henricus de Grahame, 
prsescriptis monachis dederunt," &c*'\' 

Henry de Graham, the third of that name, was the son and 
successor of the second Henry. He flourished in the reign of 
Alexander H. (1214-1249), but principally in the reign of Alex«> 
ander III. (1249 — 1286). On the decease of Sir Roger Avenel 
in 1243, he married his daughter and heiress, and thus acquired 
the extensive possessions of the Avenels of Eskdale, together with 
the manor of Abercorn. His name is mentioned as one of the 
Magnates Scotise who, in February 1283-4, met in Parliament at 
Scone to deliberate upon the succession to the throne, in conse- 
quence of the premature death of Prince Alexander, the only sur- 
viving son of King Alexander IIL ,* — and who then became bound 
to acknowledge Margaret Princess of Norway as their sovereign, 
in the event ofthe demise of Alexander III. without farther issue.| 

Sir Nicholas de Graham, eldest son of the third Henry, suc- 
ceeded his father.§ He made a donation of some lands in the 
villa of Halsington, in Berwickshire, to the monks of Melrose, 
^' pro salute Domini mei, domini Alexandri Regis Scotiae illus- 
tris, et pro salute mea, et pro salute Marie sponse mee,'* &c.|| In 

* In a charter of King William the Lion, dated Castrum Puellarum, the third 
witness is *^ Henrico de Graham, vice-comite nostro." 

In a bull of Pope Innocent III. dated Fereuton, I2th July 1203, among similar 
donations we 6nd the following notice: *' Ex dono Petri Graham, et Uenricifilii 
ejus, terram qus vocatur Balnebuth.'* Most of these charters being without date in 
the original, we are enabled bj this bull to make an approximation to the proper period. 

t Charta Henrici de Graham, filii Henrici, in Cbaitulary of Newbattle. 

t Rymer*8 Foedcra, ii. 266. See also llobertson^s Index, app. p. 3, line 12, et seq. 

§ Con6rmacto Nichobi de GrsBm de Halsington, miles, primogenitus Domini 
Henrici de Graham, sal utem in Deo sempiternara, &c. Chart of Mciross, app. p. 681. 

11 *' Kgo et haeredes mei dabimus ipsi calum pniatori in racionabilem exteatam in 
Dominicis hottrla de Duikcih^ vcl alibi in Dominicis nostris quibuscunque in r^nft 
Scotic, in loco competente ad valorem dicta terra?,*' &c.—DiplomatumColiectio, Vol. 
i. p. 429, folio. ( M* Farlane M SS.) 

There is an engraving of two seals of this Baron in Plate iii , (No. 6 and No. S,) 
Vol. il. near the end of the Chart, of Melrose, Ikmu. Club, lidin. 1837. 



464 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ibis charter proyision is made for the recovery of these lands by 
giving others of equal value in exchange* This circumstance is 
remarkable, principally, as it has led him incidentally to mention 
his lands of Dalkeith, which are here for the ^rsi time expressly at" 
tached to the family of Graham. — To this charter his seal was 
appended, and still remains entire* It is three escallops, without 
any mark of cadency. 

He sat in the famous Parliament held at Brigham, in Berwick- 
shire, in I29O9* to conclude a most important treaty between 
England and Scotland, in consequence of the minority of Mar- 
garet Princess of Norway ; and, on her unexpected demise in 
1292, he became one of the arbiters on the part of Brobert Bruce, 
in his competition with JohnBaliol for the crown of Scotland.-f- 
He swore allegiance to Edward I. in 12964 He married Mary,§ 
one of the heirs of the late Marjory of Muscamp, Countess of 
Strathem, by whom he had a son and heir. He died in the reign 
of Robert I. before the year 1316. {| 

Sir John de Grahame succeeded his father, Sir Nicholas.^ 
He gave a charter to the Abbey of Holyroodhouse about the 
year 1303.** He confirmed to the monks of Melrose the grants 
made to them by his father, which were ratified by Robert L on 
the 25th December 1316. He made to the same monks a grant 
of some lands in Eskdale, and also the patronage of Westerkyrker, 
in the diocese of Glasgow, to each of which charters his seal is 
appended, ft It is probable that it is this John de Grahame 
whose name is inserted in the famous letter of the barons of Scot- 
land to the Pope in 1320. Being of the same name, he has been 
confounded with Sir John de Graham of Dundaff, who so nobly 
supported Wallace in defence of the liberties of his country, and 
who fell in the disastrous Bajttle of Falkirk on the 22d July 1 29a tt 
Sir John Graham of Dalkeith and Abercorn, on his decease, left 
a son and two daughters. 

The second Sir John de Graham, son of the preceding, flou« 

* Rymer^B Foedera, ii. 471. f Ibid. ti. 55a 

t Wood'k Peerage, VoL iL 2d3. 

{ ** Tenementum de HalsTntoun in vice, de Berwick, by Patrick Earl of March, 
* * * wbilks lands Mana» sponsa Nicbolai de Grahame, militis, et una haeredom 
quondam Maijoris de Muaoo Campo, Comitiasae de Stratheme^ praBfittoPatrieioyper 
fosiim et bacidum siirsum reddidit.**— Robertaonli Index, p. ii. 88L 

J Wood*B Peerage, VoL ii. 234, note. 

4 Ego Johannes de Graham, miles, JUiut^ et hosres Domini Nieholai de Graham, 
&0, Chart, of Mdrosei Vol. ii. page 841. Bann. Club, Edin. 1837. 

** Sir James Dalrymple*8 ColL, p. 897. 

tt Wood's Peerage, VoL ii. p. 234, note. 

tX Compare Daliymple's Annals of Scotland, anno 1298, and note, Vol. i. p. 81 1| 
with Chalmers'^ Caledonia, VoL I p. 547, note. 

3 



DALKEITH. 466 

rished in tbe reign of David 11. (1329—1371). He granted a 
donation of the lands of Elvystone, in the county of Edinburgh, 
to John de Graham, son and heir of the deceased Richard de 
Grahana ;* which grant was confirmed by David II. on the 23d of 
March 136 J -2. Dying without issue, his extensive possessions 
of Abercorn and Dalkeith descended to his two sisters, — the one, 
married to Sir William More, obtained the barony of Abercorn ;-|* 
while the barony of Dalkeith and the estate of Eskdale passed 
into the hands of William Douglas of Lugton by his marriage 
with Marjory Graham, the other sister. 

Thus the manor and lordship of Dalkeith seem to have been 
in the possession of the Grahams for upwards of 200 years. 
Tradition intimates to us that they lived in great splendour, and 
took an active part in the wars and political transactions of the 
times; and ^^ the gallant Grahams" is still a familiar expression with 
the inhabitants of this town. But no vestige of their greatness^; now 
exists among us to perpetuate their fame ; even the wasting recum- 
bent statues which lie exposed within the area of the roofless chapel, 
and which are commonly regarded as memorials of that ancient 
family, are proved to belong to a more recent age ; and the num- 
bers of high-titled dead that have long been accumulating within 
those consecrated precincts, present a striking exhibition of the 
perishable character of human grandeur,— and testify how brief is 
the enjoyment of the acquisitions and honours of this transitory 
world I 

* ** Carta given by John Grahame of Dalkeith to John Grahame of the lands of 
Elvinstone.'* — Robert8on*s Index, pp. 44, 49 ; see also Regist. Magn. Sigill p. 21. 

fin Robertson's Index, p. 40, 13, we find, *^ Carta to William More of the ba- 
rony of Abercorn, by the resignation of John Grahame/ 

t " Ko memorial remains of thie Grahames, unless the fading traditions of the 
place, and two curious but wasted tombstones which lie within the ruined circuit of the 
old church. They represent knights in chain armour, lying cross-legged upon their mo- 
numents, like those ancient and curious figures on the tombs in the Temple Church, 
London*"— Provincial Antiquities of Scotland, Vol. i. page 57. London, 1826. 

Probably the distinguished writer of this statement had not teen ^^ these knights on 
their monuments.** The figures on the tombstone are a knight and his lady ; at the ex- 
tremity of their heads are their coats of arms ; the knight has two stars or mullets on a 
chief,* and the lady has the lion rampant of Scotland, and two stars or mullets;— clearly 
showing that it is the monument of one of the Douglavses, who married one of the 
daughters of the royal family of Scotland. f The arms of the Grahams are three es- 
callops, &c. 

* Sir James Douglas of Dalkeith bore two stars or mullets on a chief in 1371. 

t Three of the Douglasses of Dalkeith were married to daughters of the royal fa- 
mily. 1. James, second Lord Dalkeith, married first Lady Elizabeth Stewart, daugh- 
ter of Robert III. ; 2. James, fourth Lord Dalkeith, first Earl of Morton, married 
Jean Stewart, daughter of King James L, and Dowager -Countess of Angus,— -pro- 
bably the parties represented on the tombstone ; 3. James, third Earl of Morton, mar- 
ried Lady Catherine, natural daughter of King James IV. 

EDINBURGH. G g 



466 EDINBUKQHSHIRE. 

There can be little doubt that the ancient Castle of Dalkrith 

was of greater antiquity than the fourteenth century. Yet the 

earliest historical notice of it we have met with, occurs in the fol* 

lowing passage of the Chronicles of Froissart : ^' When the King 

of England (Edward III. ld'27 — 1377), had run over and scoured 

the plains of Scotland, and had remained there for three months^ 

not seeing any come to oppose him, he garrisoned many castles 

which he had taken, and thought by these means to make war 

upon all that remained. He then made a handsome retreat towards 

Berwick, and in his way he took the Castle of Dalkeith, which 

was the patrimony of the Earl of Douglas, situate five miles from 

Edinburgh. He appointed a governor and a good garrison."* 

This event, which Froissart places in 1333, must have taken place 

some years later, — Dalkeith Castle being most probably at that 

date, along with the manor, in the possession of the Grahams. 

By the marriage of Marjory Graham with William Douffias of 
Lugton, about the middle of the fourteenth century, as we have 
already mentioned, the manor of Dalkeith, and the extensive pos- 
sessions of the Grahams, were transferred into the hands of the 
Douglasses, the progenitors of the family of Morton, with whom 
they remained for about 300 years. William de Douglas of Lug- 
ton, Lord of Liddesdale, was the eldest sou of Sir James Douglas 
of Lothian, and the fourth in descent from Archenbald, the third 
of the family of Douglas.-f- He obtained from King Robert L 
(1306-1329), in or before the year 1329, a charter, entitled, 
^^ to William Douglas, son to umquhili Sir James Douglas of 
Laudon, of the barony of Calder Cleir, and Kincavill, in the vici- 
nity of Edinburgh.":]: He was among the prisoners taken at the 
battle of Halidon Hill in 1333. § He received various charters of 
forfeited lands from David II., one of which is entitled " Carta to 
William Lord Douglas, younger, of the baronie of Dalkeith, in 
vicecom. de Edinburgh." || He granted a charter to his nephew^ 
James de Douglass^ of all his lands at Aberdour, in Fife, dated at 

* Chronicle of Froissart, translated by Jobnes, Vol. i. p. 37. See also Lord 
Hai1es*8 Annals of ScolUud, Vol. ii. pp. 199, 200, note. 

f Some confusion has arisen from ascribing to this individual the heroic achieve- 
ments of his relative and namesake, William Douglas, the Kulght of Liddesdale* 
commonly called " the Flower of Chivalry," who was a natural son of **" Uie Good 
Sir James," and whose achievements adorn the annals oi this period. Tliis subject 
is fully discussed in Chalmers's Caledonia, and in the Provincial Antiquities of Scot- 
land, \o}. i. Art. Dalkeith. 

X Robi;rtson*s Index, page 23, 8. 

§ Sir James Balfour's Annals, ««& anno» See also Lord Hailes* Annals, VoL ii. 
Append, page 368. 

Ii Ilobertson's Index, page 40, 1 1. 



DALKEITH. 4jB7 

Dalkeith, the 7th of April 1351, which charter was coDfirmed at 
Drummellyer, the 14th December 1366.* On his decease he left 
one daughter, Mary, who died without issue before the year 1369. 
This is indicated by a charterf from William, first Earl of Dou- 
glas, dated Edinburgh, 6th April 1369, who, in presence of King 
David 11. (1329-1371), and several of his nobles, resigned to the 
late Mary de Douglas, daughter and heir of the late William de 
Douglas, all the lands to which he had any title in the barony of 
Dalkeith. He was buried before St Bridget's Altar, in the mo- 
nastery of Melrose*! 

It was probably between the years 1360 and 1363 that the 
celebrated Froi8sart§ visited Scotland. As there seems to be some 
inaccuracy in his statements in reference to Dalkeith, we shall 
best ascertain the truth by comparing his account with the history 
of the families of Douglas. In describing the battle of Otter* 
burne, (1383), in which James, second Earl of Douglas, was 
slain, he says, *^ In my youth, I, the author of this history, tra« 
veiled through all Scotland, and was full fifteen days resident with 
William, Earl of Douglas, father of Earl James, at his Castle of 
Dalkeith, five miles distant from Edinburgh. Earl James was 
then very young, but a promising youth, and he had a sister 
called (Isabella)." At the battle of Otterburne, he makes Earl 
James exclaim, on having taken Percy's pennon, ^* This I shall 
carry as a sign of my prowess to Scotland, and shall place it on a 
pinnacle of my Castle of Dalkeith to be seen by all."|| He says 
further, ^^ Of this James, Earl of Douglas, there was no issue, 
Dor do I know who succeeded to the estate of Douglas ; * • * 
but there were enow of the name of Douglas ; for I knew five 
handsome brothers, squires, of this name> at the Court of King 

* Ref^ist. Magn. SigilL, page 52, 156- 

t Ibid. p. 65,214. 

t Morton *s Monastic Annals of Teviotdale, 4to, 1892, page 272. 

§ Froissart was born about the year 1333. He was in England between 1360 
and 1363, during part of which time he travelled through Scotknd. His work ex. 
tends to the year 1399, and he probably died about the year 1400. When in Scot- 
land, he might be from twenty-seven to thirty years of age.-— Bayle*B Dictionnaire 
Uistorique, &c. article Froissart. See also Life of Froissart, prefixed to Johues* 
Translation. 

11 Earl James was probably born aboot the year 1348, and, consequently, when 
Froissart saw him, he might be about twelve or thirteen years of age. He feU at 
the battle of Otterburne, in the year 1388, at the age of forty. 

'* le reporteray tant de vostre prouesse en F.8coce, et le mettray sur mon Chastel 
d'Alquest, pourquoy on le verra de plus loing — Par Dieu, Compte de Douglas, rc- 
spondit Messire Henry, vous nc le vutderez ik de Northombellande." Page 304. 
Le tiers volume. Hisloire et Chronique Memorable de Messire Jehan Froissart. 
A Paris, hdlxxixii. 



46S EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

David of Scotland, who werechildrea of a knight called Sir James 
Douglas." 

Did the Castle of Dalkeith then belong to the Earls of Dout- 
glas previously to 1388? From the charter of Earl William 
Douglas, already mentioned, it appears that he once did possess 
a right to lands within the barony of Dalkeith ; and it may even 
be admitted that he resided in that castle during the minority of 
the heiress Mary, and entertained there his illustrious guest. But 
Froissart is assuredly mistaken in ascribing such right to his son 
Earl James. The barony and Castle of Dalkeith were granted 
by King David IL, not to Earl James^ but to James de Dovfflasj 
at Montrose, on the 9th December 1369;* and whatever connec- 
tion that noble family might subsequently have with the Castle of 
Dalkeith in the way of social intercourse, there is no evidence to 
show that these domains were ever again in possession of any 
Earl of Douglas. That Froissart, however, notwithstanding bis 
high and peculiar excellencies as the historian of chivalry, was not 
incapable of making such mistakes, is acknowledged by his biogra- 
pher.f <^ Froissart est souvent incorrect et surtout incomplet ; les 
dates, les noms-propres, la suite des 6venemens, ne se trouvent pas 
dans son livre aussi bien dtablis que dans un historien moderne/' 
Nor can we omit noticing a statement which appears to have been 
too hastily made and admitted by some recent writers,:|: that Frois- 
sart obtained from the Douglasses, at this very place, (Dalkeith), 
the materials of his account of the battle of Otterbume, which was 
fought some time before by their celebrated kinsman. There is 
no statement in the writings of Froissart, by which it can be 
proved that he was ever at Dalkeith, or even in Scotland, more 
than once. According to his own account, this was when he was 
a very young man, probably about the year 1361, and many years 
before the battle of Otterburne. Had he obtained the materials 
of his narrative at Dalkeith Castle subsequently to that battle, it 
is evident that his knowledge of these families must have been 
more accurate, and the strain of his observations totally different§ 

William de Douglas, Lord of Liddesdale, was succeeded in 

* Regist. Magn. Sigill., page 70, 239. 

f Biographic Universelle, art. Froissart, (Tome seiiieme). 

i Charober8*8 Gazetteer of Scotland, (18S2), article Dalkeith. Parker Lawson*s 
Gazetteer of Scotland, (1841), article Dalkeith. 

§ Lord Hailes suspects that Froissart may have mistaken William Douglas of Dal- 
keith, for the Earl William Douglas, who lived about the same time. — Annalx of 
Scotland, Vol. li. page 275. The whole subject is fully discussed in the appendix to 
Wood's Peerage, Vol. ii. page 744-748. 



DALKEITH. 469 

his extensive possessions, on the decease of his daughter Mary, 
by his nephew, Sir James Dauglasj first Lord of Dalkeith, and 
eldest son of his brother. Sir John Douglas. This Sir James 
Douglas had previously obtained various possessions ; but on the 
9th December 1369, as we have already mentioned, on his own 
resignation, he received a charter from David II. of the barony 
and Castle of Dalkeith to himself, and the heirs-male of his lK>dy, 
on giving annually to the King at the Castle of Dalkeith, if sought, 
a pair of white gloves, or a silver penny, at the feast of Pentecost* 
He was present-f* at the coronation of Robert 11. at Scone, on the 
26th March 1371', and took the oath of allegiance to that mo- 
narch ; — ^and his seal and signature, along with those of other 
nobles, are still extant,^: appended to the solemn deed, by which 
John, Earl of Carrick, King Robert's eldest son, is declared to be 
the heir of the Scottish Crown, on his father's decease. This 
young prince, however, had the misfortune to meet with an acci- 
dent which rendered him for some time incapable of attending to 
public affairs.§ 

In 1373, Sir James Douglas, first Lord of Dalkeith, undertook a 
pilgrimage to Canterbury, || for the accomplishment of which a 
safe conduct was given him* He received from King Robert II. 
various other charters ; and by his marriage with Agnes Dunbar, 
daughter of Patrick, ninth Earl of March, he added to his exten- 
sive possessions, and became one of the ^^ greater barons" of Scot- 
land.^ He granted the lands of Qoyltand Fethan, in the county 
of Peebles, for the support of a chaplain in the chapel of Dal- 
keith, which was confirmed by Robert II., at Irvine, on the 25th 
October 1377.** He likewise founded and endowed an bospitalff 

* <' Reddendo nobis et beredibus nostris — annuatioi apud castrum de Dalketh— 
ad festum Pentecostes, unum parem cirotecarum (;^i/^«9m««v) albarum, yelunum de- 
nariuDi argenti* si petatur," &c.— Regist Magn. Sigill. 70, 1239. 

•f Robertson's Index, p. HI, 58, and appendix, page 15, line 12, et seq. 

X The original document is preserved in the Register Office, Edinburgh. A full 
copy is given in Robertson's Index, Appendix, pages 10-12, and <* Diu Jacobut de 
Doughs,*' is on one of the labels. His seal bears two stars or mullets on a chief, 
supported by two savages, and the crest has a wild boar and a tree. 

§ The following curious entry occurs in Sir James Balfour*s Anoals. <* The zeire 
1389, King Robert the Second, being now broken down with age, and bis eldest son 
Jhone, Earl of Carrick, being, with a stroke of Sir James Douglas of Dalkeith's 
horse, quyte learned, and not able to travell, made his second son Robert, Earl of 
Fyffe,by Sir Adam Muir's daughter, gouvernoar of the kingdom." Vol. i. 132. The 
same circumstance is noticed in Holingshed Boece. 

II Rymer's Fcedera, vii. 32. 

If See Regist. Mag. Sigill., 140-73. 
*« Regist. Magn. Sigill. 150-113. 

ft '' What was called the hospital, was nothing more than two mean old houses call- 
ed the Beid Houses, which were sold for the benefit of the poor about the year 1752, 



47Q EDINBURGHSHIRE* 

near the chapel for the support of six poor persons, in 1396. Id . 
.1384, some French knightSt who had come to Scotland in quest 
of military adventures, were invited to the Castle of Dalkeith. 
Here being kindly received, they joined James,* Earl of Douglas, 
in an unprovoked excursion into the northern counties of England, 
and returned laden with booty, and elated by the capture of nu- 
merous prisoners«-f* The success of this excursion gave rise, in the 
following year, to a more numerous arrival of the French^ who not 
being able to find sufficient accommodation in Edinburgh, were 
billeted in Dalkeith and other neighbouring towns, till the arrange- 
ments for taking the field were completed. As the expedition was 
not of local interest, any further notice of it here is unnecessary. 

Sir James Douglas, first Lord of Dalkeith, was engaged after 
this in various important public transactions. Among others he was^ 
in 1398, appointed one of the council to assist the Duke of Al- 
bany in the government of the kingdom.:^ He died in the year 
14120, at an advanced age, of an epidemic which Fordun§ calls h 
QufietVi — a sort of influenza occasioned by the great irregularity 
of the temperature in the preceding part of the year, and which 
seems at this time to have proved fatal to many, both of the nobles 
and of the lower classes. He was buried in the Abbey of New- 
botyle.jl 

Sir James Douglas, second Lard of Dalkeith, and eldest son of 
the preceding, succeeded his father. He obtained from his father, 
while yet alive in 1891, a grant of the castle and town of Dat- 
keith ;f and in 1401, having married Lady Elizabeth Stewart, 
daughter of King Robert III. (1390-1406), he obtained from that 
Prince a grant of the barony and Castle of Morton in Dumfries- 
shire, and of the lands of Mordington and Whittinghanu In 140t2, 
he was present at the disastrous battle of Homildon, under the com- 
mand of Archibald, fourth Earl of Douglas, and was taken prisoner 

vrhen the Charity Work-house was built. One of the Beid Houses stood directly 
before the (old) manse, facing the principal street ;— the other utood a little to the 
east of the church. Of the Beid Houses there are no remains, as they were pulled 
down by the purchasers, and new ones built on the ground where they stood. Dal- 
keith, 17th February 1796.** MS. Letter from the Rev. W. Scott, Minister of Dal- 
keith, to General Hutton. — Hutton*8 Coll. Vol. t. Adv. Lib. 

* The famous James who fell at Otterburn. 

t TytlerV History of Scotland, Vol. iii. p. 26-35, {rom Froissart. 

t Tytlet^ History of Scotland!, Vol. iii. p. 89,-^rom the first volume of the Acts 
of Parliament of Scotland, (not yet published.) 

§ ForduD k GoodaU. Vol. ii. p. 460. 

g Two wills of this distinguLihed Baron, dated 1390 and 1392, containing kndb 
curious information, are inserted in the Baanatyne Miscellany, Vol. ii, page 105^ 
120. Edin., 1836. 

t Regist Magn. Sig^U. p. 203, No. 23. 



DALKEITH. 471 

with his brothers, James and William.* On that occasion, the Earl 
of Douglas himself fell into the hands of the enemy, and was kept 
in captivity till the year 1407, when a ransom and thirteen host- 
ages of the noblest families were demanded by the English King, 
(Henry IV.) for his release, of which number was Sir James 
Douglas, at that time Master of Dalkeith.-f- In 1424, he was one 
of the splendid company of barons who went to Durham, to meet 
James I., after his release from his long captivity in England 4 on 
which occasion, his eldest son, William, who had formerly (1408 
-13) been a hostage for the Earl of Douglas, and kept in the Tower 
of London, where King James I. was at that time, — was again 
(1424) made one of the hostages for the return of James I. ; and 
it is remarked that the amount of his annual revenue was higher 
than that of any of the other hostages, except that of Duncan, Lord 
of Argyll, which was equaL§ William died before 1440, in the 
lifetime of his father. 

In 1426, Sir James Douglas, second lord of Dalkeith, was one 
of the assize before whom Murdoch, Duke of Albany, and his two 
sons, were tried and condemned to be beheaded.|| At the same 
time Malcolm Fleming of Cummernauld, and Thomas Boyd of 
Kilmarnock were arrested and committed to ward in Dalkeith, on 
a charge of taking goods wrongfully, but were shortly after pardon- 
ed and set at liberty.^ By his 6rst wife, Lady Elizabeth Stewart, 
daughter of King Robert III., he had three sons, William, James, 
and Archibald. He was next married to Janet, daughter of Sir 
William Borthwick of Borthwick, by whom he had a son, Sir 
William Douglas, who was the first of the Douglasses of Whit- 
tingham, some of whose descendants became distinguished in the 
armies of Sweden, under Gustavus Adolphus and Charles XII. 
Sir James Douglas, the second lord, died about the year 1450. 

James Douglas, the third Lord of Dalkeith, the eldest surviving 

son of the preceding, succeeded his father in 1450. He married, 

. first. Lady Margaret Douglas, eldest daughter of James, seventh 

Earl of Douglas, by whom he had one daughter. He afterwards 

* Sir James Ba1four*s Annals, sub anno.— Fordun a Goodall, Vol. iL p. 434-^ 

+ Rynier*s Foedera, ix. 

t Kyiner*s Foedera, x. 307—309. Tytler's History of Scotland, Vol. iii. 197; also 
notes, p. 394-5. 

§ The statement of bis yearly income is given as follows : *' Jacobus Dominus de 
Dalketb, vel filius ejus primogenitua ad xv C marc.*'— See Tytler*s Hist. Vol. iii. 
p. 395. 

n Sir James Balfour's Annals, anno 1426. 

\ Drummond of HawthorDdeo*s History, James I. p. 3, (Ed. Edin. 1711.) 



47.2 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

married Elizabeth, daughter of James Giffart of SfaeriflFhall, by 
whom he had two sons, James and Henry. 

In 1452, during the commotions consequent upon the murder 
uf William, the sixth Earl of Douglas, in Stirling Castle, the lands 
of all those whom the friends of Douglas suspected of being fa* 
Tourable to the King, were overrun and plundered. James, brother 
of the deceased Earl, embraced this opportunity of revenging a 
private grudge which he entertained against his kinsman, the Lord 
of Dalkeith, who had formerly disapproved of their proceedings, 
and who refused to join them on the present occasion.* They 
plundered and burned the town of Dalkeith, invested the castle, 
and took an oath not to abandon the siege, till they bad levelled 
il with the ground. Their success, however, did not correspond 
to their expectation. The castle, being a place of some strength 
in those days^ was so gallantly defended by Patrick Cockbum, the 
governor, that the assailants, after sustaining great loss in wounded 
and slain, were obliged to retire and vent their malice in the plun- 
der and devastation of the surrounding neighbourhood.t For 
these excesses, James Earl of Douglas was attainted in 1455. 
Among the various articles laid to his charge, one is as follows; — 
^* Pro arte et parte incendiorum burgi de Dalketh, et rapinarum 
bonorum inhabitantium dictum burgum.''} 

This LfOrd of Dalkeith having become deranged, his affairs were 
placed in 1452, by royal charter, under the management of James 
Giffart of Sheriffhall,§ his relative. He died about the year 1456. 

James Douglas, the fourth Lord of Dalkeith and first Earl of 
Morton, was eldest son of the preceding Lord, and succeeded bis 
father. He was a person of great abilities, and in high favour with 
King James XL, (1436-7 — 1460.) As the number of the nobi- 
lity had been recently somewhat diminished by the attainder of 
the Earl of Douglas and others of his faction, it pleased the King 
to select James, fourth Lord of Dalkeith, as one of those on whom 
the honour of nobility should be conferred. He was accordingly 
created Earl of Morton on the 14th day of March 1457-8^ deriv- 
ing his title, not from the lands of Morton in Nithsdale, which 

* Hume of Godscroft, Vol. i. p. 291, (Glasgow, 1814;) also Drummondof Uaw- 
thorDden"^ Hist. James II., p. 30, (£d. 1711.) 

t Buchanan's Hist., p. 213, A. Ed. (Edin. 1715.) Also TyUer'ft Hist, of Scot. 
Vol. iv. p. 107. 

X Acu of Scot. Parliament, Vol. ii. p. 76. See Nisbct's Heraldry, p. 61 . 

§ James Giffart of Sberiffball was found guilty of treason, and, "forfaulted all his 
lands, gudes, offices, and possessions to the Crown," Anno 1485. He kept corre- 
spondence with the English, and entertained the English Poursuifant, called Blue 
Mantle.— Acts of Scot. Pari., Vol. ii. p. 76. See Nlsbet^ Heraldry, p. 61. 



DALKEITH. 473 

heritably belonged to Janeti Dowager- Lady Dalkeith, and her 
son, William de Douglas, — but from the lands of Morton, in the 
territory of Calder-clear.* He married Johanna, daughter of 
King James L, and Countess-Dowager of Angus, by whom he 
had a son and two daughters. 

John Douglas, second Earl of Morton,f being the only son of 
the first Earl, succeeded his father. He married Janet Crichton, 
daughter of Crichton of Cranston Riddel, by whom he had two 
sons and two daughters. 

The Princess Margaret, eldest daughter of Henry VH. of Eng- 
land, having been for some time affianced to King James IV., 
(1488-1513), the royal bride set out for the Scottish capital in 
1509^ with a splendid retinue. Passing through England, she was 
met at Lamberton Kirk, on the borders, by the Archbishop of 
Glasgow and a great company of Scottish nobles, among whom 
was the Earl of Morton, — and was there solemnly delivered over 
to the commissioners of the Scottish King. The procession ad« 
vanced to Fast Castle on the German Ocean, where they spent 
the night. Next day, passing through Dunbar, they reached the 
Abbey of Haddington ; and on the third day, the King, accom- 
panied by some of his nobles, having met her at Newbattle,^ the 
cavalcade proceeded to the Castle of Dalkeith. Here she was ho- 
nourably received by the Earl of Morton, who, meeting her at 
the gates, with great ceremony presented her with the keys of the 
castle. Some joyful days were spent at Dalkeith. The King, 
anxious to show every attention to his youthful bride, graced the 
company with his presence, and enlivened the occasion with vari- 
ous exhibitions of chivalry.§ On the seventh day, the procession 
advanced with increasing magnificence to Edinburgh, where their 

* Acts of Scot. Pari., Vol. ii. p. 78. His name frequently occurs in the sederunts 
of the Parliaments of James III. 

•f This Earl of Morton was present in the Parliament in which James IV. made 
his settlement upon his Queen, Margaret, in the year loOd. Acts of Scot. Pari. Vol, 
ii. p. 273. 

i She seems to have come by what is called the *^ Salterns Road** and the Maideo 
Bridge : — a very old bridge over the South Esk near Dalkeith, — now in the grounds 
•f the Marquis of Lothian. 

§ The whole of this pageant has been minutely and graphically descrilied by Joha 
Young, the Somerset Herald, an eye-witness, and is given at length in Leland's Col- 
lections, Vol. iv. p. 282, &c* 

The following curious entries have been found in the chamberlain^s booksr 
August 6th* 1503: — Item, to Auchlek, for gilting of the Queue's bukkilles, and 
boses of the Queue's bridill and harnesing, that was brynt in Oalkeyth, iij Ii. ij s. 

August 10th ; — Item, to Maister James Henrisounis man, of bridil silver of ane- 
hors given for the Queue, for hir hors were brynt in Dalkeith, xiiij s. 

Item, to the carturis of Leith brocht the Quene*s gere (baggage) Xo Edin. frm 
Dalketh, xxij cartis, ilk cart vi s., vi Ii. x\j s. Pltcairn^s Crimmid Trials, Vol. L 
page 118. 



474 EDINBURGHSHIRS. 

union was consummated in the Abbey of Holyroodhousei and has 
been] immortalized by Dunbar in his beautiful poem of the 
« ThrissiKand the Rois,"* 

James Douglas, tAtVcf Earl of Morton, and eldest son of the second 
Earl, succeeded his father. He married Lady Catherine Stewart, 
natural daughter of James IV. by Mary Boyd ; and by her he had- 
three daughters, Margaret, Beatrix, and Elizabeth* A safe con- 
duct to England was granted him in 1516. In 1528, he was ac- 
cused of treasonably corresponding with Hume of Wedderburn, 
and Gawin Bishop of Dunkeld, but was honourably acquitted in 
1524.-|* Having no male issue, he made an entail of his estate in 
1540 in favour of Robert Douglas of Lochleven, reserving a third 
part as a portion to his wife ; but afterwards, as it had been ar- 
ranged that James Douglas, second son of Sir Geoi^e Douglas 
of Pittendriech, and brother of David, seventh Earl of Angus, 
should marry his daughter Elizabeth^ — he changed his mind, and 
granted a charter of his lands and earldom in favour of his intended 
son-in-law^ who, immediately after the consummation of the mar* 
riage, received the title of Master of Morton, as if he had been 
the Earl's own son. This grant was confirmed by royal charter 
in 1543.+ The Earl died in 1553. 

In September 1519, from an apprehension that the plague had 
reached the metropolis. King James V. was removed by the Earl 
of Arran from the castle of Edinburgh, and brought to the castle 
of Dalkeith, where the court was held for about a month.§ 

Shortly after the death of King James V., in 1542, negocia* 
tions were commenced by King Henry VIII. to obtain the infant 
Scottish Princess in marriage for his son, and by this means to 
reduce Scotland under his sway. As these measures were vigo« 
rously opposed by Cardinal Beaton, he was suddenly arrested, on 
the 20tb January 1542-3, and imprisoned in Dalkeith Castle, | 
and thence conveyed to his Castle of St Andrews. Recovering his 
liberty, the Cardinal succeeded in frustrating the scheme of Henry, 
who thereupon resolved to invade the kingdom, and accomplish his 
purpose by force. Prompt measures were taken by Arran, the go* 
vernor, to obstruct these plans ; and as Sir George Douglas of Pin- 
kie, and his son, the Master of Morton, who was now in possession 

* See the valuable edition of tbe Poems of William Dunbar, in 2 yok. 8to, by 
David I^ing. Kdinburgh, 1884. Vol. I pages 8-10. 

t Acti of Scot Pari., Vol. IL p. 290. $ Ibid. 

§ Hollinshed^s Scottish Chronicle, Vol. ii. p. 159. Perth, 1806. 

I) Diurnd of Occurrents, page 26, Bamiat. Club, Edinburgh, 1883. 

1 



DALKEITH. 476 

of Dalkeith Castle, had shown themselves devotedly attached to the 
views of the King of England, the governor resolved either to cut 
them off, or drive them from the country. With that view, he laid 
siege to Pinkie and Dalkeith, and quickly succeeded in taking 
them both. The Master of Morton, however, supported by his 
two friends, James Douglas of Parkedge and Alexander Drum- 
mond, seized upon one of the dungeons of the castle of Dalkeith, 
and for some days resolutely held out against the governor. They 
might have been able to set him at complete defiance ; but be- 
ing destitute of artillery and victuals, and receiving no assistance 
from their friends, they were obliged to surrender, on condition of 
being allowed to depart in safety with their property.* 

On the disastrous defeat of the Scottish army, at the battle of 
Pinkie, in 1547, a large proportion of the fugitives fled in the di- 
rection of Dalkeith.-|- Vast multitudes were slain in the intervene 
ing fields; but some, among whom was the Master of Morton, 
were so fortunate as to reach the castle. Being quite unprepared 
for a siege, it must have immediately surrendered to the English. 
But their unaccountable departure from Scotland, within a very 
few days after the battle, prevented them from deriving almost 
any advantage from the universal consternation into which the 
country had been thrown by the defeat.} 

Early in the following year, however, (February 1547-8,) 
the English again entered Scotland with a formidable army under 
Lord Grey. Passing through the Merse and Lothian, they laid 
waste the country, plundered and burnt the towns, and shortly 
after returned home. Among other places, the Castle of Dalkeith 
had been marked out for special vengeance. The deceitful part 
that had been acted by Sir George Douglas for some time past, 
excited the great displeasure of the English ; and, moreover, the 
wealth of the neighbourhood had been deposited there for security 
from the depredations to which thecountry was at that time exposed. 
A force, therefore, of 600 foot and 100 horse, suddenly appeared 
before the castle, and summoned it to surrender. An obstinate 
resistance was for some time made by the garrison, under the com- 
mand of Sir George Douglas, who was then lying in the castle ; 
but they were at last obliged to yield themselves up to the plea- 
sure of the enemy. Sir George himself escaped ; but his wife, 

* Saddler'ii Ixdten, 7th Novenbcr 1.543, et seq, 
f See page 608, infra. 

t Humeof Godscroft, Vol. it. p. 128. £din. 1743. See also Patteo^ Rzpedition, 
in Dalycirs Frugmenta of Scottish History. 4to. 



476 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

—his sou, the Master of Morton, — and many others, besides a vast 
amount of booty, fell into the hands of the English.* 

James Douglas,^tir^A Earl of Morton, succeeded to his father- 
in-law, the third Earl, in 1553. Though this young nobleman rose 
to the highest honours of the State, and his actions have become the 
property of general history ; yet, from his connection with the pa- 
rish of Dalkeith, his principal residence being here from the time 
of his marriage till his death, a brief and connected account of his 
life may not be unsuitable in the historical sketch of this parish. 

The Begent Morton was bom about the year I5i7.f He 
was the second son of the noted Sir Greorge Douglas of 
Pittendriech, — nephew of Archibald, sixth Earl of Angus, 
— and brother of David, the seventh Earl. In consequence 
of the attainder of his uncle Earl Archibald, and his fitther 
Sir George, under James V., young Morton was obliged to spend 
his childhood in obscurity. His education was neglected, and he 
was under the necessity of living for some years under the feigned 
name of Innes, in the capacity of grieve or land-steward to a pri- 
vate gentleman. J On the death of James V., in 1542, his father 
and other relatives were restored to their estates ; and Morton, 
leaving his concealment, was speedily married to the Lady Elisa- 
beth Douglas, daughter of James, third Earl of Morton ; and be- 
came heir with her to the estates, honours, and titles of her father. 

On the capture of Dalkeith Castle, after the battle of Pinkie, 
young Morton being taken prisoner, as has been already mention- 
ed, was carried to England, where he was detained for several 
years. How he obtained his liberty seems not to be known ; but, 
on his return home, he always showed an attachment to England, 
•^imitating their accent and language, and being favourable to 
their policy. On the death of his brother David, the Earl of An- 
gus, he become tutor to the young earl, his nephew, and lived for 
some time in retirement, to recruit their exhausted fortunes. 
When he came to take a part in the management of public affairs, 
he zealously supported the cause of the Reformers, whose principles 
he had early embraced : — he signed the Covenant in 1557, § and 

• TytlerlB History of Scotland, Vol. vi. pp. 49-50 ; compared with Diurnal of Oc- 
currentR, pp. 46-47 ; and Ciilderwood^s History, Vol. i. p. 255. Wodrow, Ed. 1842. 

f He resigned bis regency in 1577-^, one reason for which, he says, was '* his 
great age, being now past threescoir ane zeiris.** Hecord of Privy Seal, quoted in 
M*Crie*s Life of Melville, Vol. i. p. 197. 

t Hume of Godscroft, Vol. ii. page 138, Edinburgh, 1743. Also Crawftird^ Offi- 
cers of State, page 94. 

9 Httttinthe Parliament of 16G0, which ratified the Reformation.— Acts of Soot 
Pari., Vol. ii., p. 525-6, &c. 



DALKEITH. 477 

the First Book of Discipline in 1560; — be was the intimate and 
eonBdential friend of Knox and James Earl of Murray, so long as 
they lived ; — he adhered throughout to the faction of England, and 
was a favourite with Queen Elizabeth. But although he was a 
powerful instrument in promoting the cause of the Reformation, 
he looked upon Christianity too exclusively with the eye of a states* 
man ; he was eager to establish an Erastian Episcopacy ; he ob* 
jected to the meeting of the General Assembly of the Church with« 
out his authority ; and even proposed a discussion as to whether 
the civil magistrate should not be also the head of the church. 

In 1561, he was chosen a member of the privy council, and was 
raised to the office of Lord High Chancellor on the 7th of Janu* 
ary 1563-4; — an office which he held till 1565-6, when he was 
obliged to flee in consequence of being accessary to the murder of 
Rizzio. He was induced to engage in that foul transaction, partly 
to oblige the king, and partly to prevent the attainder of some of his 
friends, and the revocation of some dispositions which had been 
granted to himself and them during the Queen's minority,— 
measures which it had been resolved to accomplish in the ap- 
proaching Parliament By this crime he incurred the Queen's 
deep displeasure, and continued in banishment till his pardon was 
procured through the influence of Bothwell, who shortly after be- 
came a great favourite at Court. ^ 

On his return from England, in 1566-7, Morton spent some days 
at the Castle of Whittingham, in company with Bothwell, Lething- 
ton, and his relative, Archibald Douglas, the proprietor of the place. 
Here he was made acquainted with the dark designs that were 
forming against the unfortunate Darnley. Tradition still points 
out the; venerable yew tree, near the old Castle of Whittingham, 
under whose ample and gloomy shade the foul conspiracy was talk- 
ed over a considerable time before its execution.* But, though 
aware of the impending murder, he declined taking any part in 
the perpetration of the horrid deed ; and, with consummate art, 
he afterwards directed his plans in such a manner as to seem in- 
clined to proceed against the conspirators, while he always avoid- 
ed taking any decided step for that purpose. True to his object 
of promoting his own aggrandizement, he vacillated between the 
parties, received favours from Mary and Bothwell, and then 
joined the party that opposed them. And, notwithstanding his 
solemn promise to permit the Queen to be at liberty after her sur- 
render at Carberry Hill, in 1567, he caused her to be sent to Loch- 

* Communicated by the Rev. Mr Lumsden of Wbittingham. 



478 EDINBURGHSHIRE* 

le^'en Castle, wbich belonged to a relative of his own, where she 
was guarded with the utmost strictness. During her confinement 
there) he was one of those who persuaded the Queen to resign the 
goyemnient to her infant son : he carried the sceptre at the coro- 
nation of the Prince, and took the oaths in his stead. After the 
Queen's escape from Lochleven, in 1568, and during the whole pe- 
riod of her captivity in England, he showed himself the devoted 
friend of the English faction, and scrupled at nothing that would 
further their views. 

On the death of the Regent Murray, in 1570, Morton became 
the most influentiiil leader of the Protestant party. The Re- 
gents Lennox and Marr were controlled or thwarted by his su- 
perior sagacity; his crafty, selfish, and ambitious spirit ani- 
mated all their proceedings. The peace and prosperity of the 
country were sacrificed to gratify his revenge or promote his ag- 
grandisement ;* and recent investigation has disclosed with how 
little reluctance he would have sanctioned the execution of the 
unfortunate Mary, had not their dark designs been unexpectedly 
frustrated by an overruling Providence.t 

Being elevated to the Regency on the sudden and not unsuspici- 
ous death of Mar in 1572, he pursued bis former policy, and labour- 
ed to bring about a union of the monarchy between the two coun- 
tries. Under his administratiou,'however, the country enjoyed com- 
parative tranquillity. He repressed disorder and crime, and main- 
tained the authority of the law. He delighted in planting and 
building, and enlarged and adorned his castle at Dalkeith, so that 
it seemed too sumptuous and stately for a subject. Being intent 
on amassing wealth, he was frugal and economical. He greatly 
impr6ved the revenues of the Crown, and augmented his private 
possessions ; but he was not scrupulous as to the means of obtain- 
ing money. He debased the value of the currency ;f and, under 

* On the 7th of February 1571-2, at 12 hours at noon, there past toards Dal- 
keith, pertaining to James Earl of Morton, viiixx (f, e, eight score) backbutters, and 
ixxx horsemen, quhair tbejr raisit fyre in greit abundance, to the greit grief of the in- 
habitants thairof, and returned saifflie to the burgh of Edinr. again at aucht houis at 
evin ; albeit the utber persones thair enemies lay in wait, and mlssit at the plesourof 
God.— Diurnal of Occurrents, p. 257-8. 

t Tytler's History of Scotland, VoL vii. pp. 386-95. 

i Do. page 297. '' At this time (i. e. 2ist May 1572), was ane cunzie dimit and 
cunzeit in Dalkeith, of silver, quhilk was half merk pennies, and zi penny pieces, be- 
ing but slycht, and vi pennies fine layit money. On the ane syid the lyoun. togidder 
with thissubccription following thairabout — jacobvs dei gratia rexscotto&vm; 
and on the other syid ane oroce in manner of the auld plaukis with this inacriptioD— 
SALVVM FAC POPVLVM TYVM DNE. 1572, and proclamit at Leith to have passe 
throw the realme as sufficient and lawful money, under the paines contenait in tho 
Acts of Parliament,** &c. — See also Introduction to Anderson's Diplomata, ad finem. 



DALKEITH. 479 

the cover of law, his coffers were enriched by forfeitures, confisca- 
tion, and extortion* He was loose in bis habits ; arrogant and 
tyrannical in the exercise of his power ; haughty and inaccessible 
towards his fellow-subjects ; and of implacable enmity towards 
such as bad incurred his displeasure, — ^so that he soon lost the fa- 
vour and confidence of the nobility, and became completely de« 
tested by all classes. The advancing years and growing intelli- 
gence of the young Prince, and the influence of the Regent's 
enemies who were about the King's person, soon conspired to ac- 
complish the downfal of Morton. He felt himself obliged to 
make a show of resigning the Regency, after having held that office 
for five years and three months,* though the King was still 
only in his eleventh year, while, by the arrangements made at the 
Queen's demission in 1567, he was not allowed to enter upon the 
government till he had reached the age of seventeen years com-> 
plete.-f- On demitting the Regency, Morton retired for safety 
(o Lochleven Castle4 Here, brooding over the means of regain- 
ing his former influence, he left Lochleven Castle with a few at- 
tendants, — arrived at Stirling Castle about midnight, — made him- 
self master of the place, — and, with his usual address, soon re- 
gained his influence at Court. His success, however, was but of 
short duration. Aubigny, afterwards Duke of Lennox, and James 
Stewart, afterwards Earl of Arran, had gained possession of the 
royal favour ; and, when they found the convenient opportunity, 
they accused Morton of being accessary to the murder of Darnley, 
the King's father. Upon this he was immediately arrested (1 580,) 
and sent prisoner to Edinburgh Castle, and afterwards to Dum- 
barton. He received little sympathy or assistance from his political 
friends. Even England, to whose interest he had always been so 
devoted, made but a feeble and ineffectual attempt to obtain his 
rescue. Being carried back to Edinburgh, he was brought to trial 
on the 1st of June 1581, and condemned to be executed.§ His last 
hours were spent in company with some of the reformed clergy and 
other friends. To them his mind appeared to have undergone a 
vital change ; — he exhibited all the symptoms of a deep-seated 
Christian repentance ; — and his agonized conscience found relief 
only in the promises of the Gospel and the exercises of devotion. In 
his confessions, which have been recorded at length by Bannatyne 

* Even bis magnificent cattle, sharing along with him in the papular odium, came 
to be vulgarly designated ** The Lion's Den/* 

f Calderwood, Vol. li. p. 876. Wod. ed. 

X Godscroft, Vol. ii. p. 258. Edin. 1742. 

§ His indictment, verdict, and sentt'uce, are given at length in Pitcoim's Criminal 
Trials, Vol. i. Part 2, p. 114-1 16. 



480 EDFNBURGHSHIRB. 

and othersi be acknowledged that he had been made aware of tbe 
plot to assassinate Darnley ; but he denied that he had any hand in 
forming it, or in carrying it into execution ;— and, while he solemnly 
disclaimed all participation in the crime for which he suffered, he 
confessed that he merited death for many other sins. On the 2d 
of June he was brought to the scaffold. He met his (ate with 
magnanimity and resignation. His head was cut off by the axe of 
tbe maiden, an instrument of execution which he himself had in- 
troduced, and next day was fixed upon the top of the most con- 
spicuous gable of the Tolbooth ;* and his body, wrapped up in a 
coarse cloak, was carried under night by porters to the grave, and 
secretly buried in the Greyfriars churchyard. 

By the condemnation and death of Morton, his estates and ho-- 
nours were forfeited to the Crown.f Aubigny, bis accuser, re- 
ceiving his estates, was created Lord Dalkeith, and shortly after- 
wards Duke of Lennox. He resided a short time at Dalkeith ; 
but, as he had incurred the great displeasure of the nobility, the 
King was prevailed upon to order him to leave Scotland on pain 
of treason. He went therefore to France, and died, as was sus- 
pected, of poison, in 1583. 

On the decease of Aubigny, the honours, offices, and partiali- 
ties, of which he had so largely participated, were soon transferred 
by the King to his youthful son, Ludovic ; and, among other re- 
venues, the Lordship of Dalkeith was continued to him, till an 
opportunity should occur of providing for him otherwise. Nor was 
the delay long. By the death of Lord Methven, in 1584, without 
issue, the vacant Lordship was bestowed upon young Lennox, and 
the lands of Dalkeith reverted to the heirs of the House of Dou- 
glas. 

The Earldom of Morton had been, however, constituted anew 
in 1581, and conferred by royal charter upon John Lord Max- 
well, grandson of the third Earl of Morton. But the act of at- 
tainder of the late Regent being repealed in 1585, Lord Maxwell 
was deprived of his new dignity ; though, when afterwards created 
Earl of Nithsdale, he was allowed to count his precedency from 
the time when his former title was conferred ; and the estates and 
honours of Morton devolved upon the Regent's nephew, Archi* 

* Melvillc^i Diary, p. 127. Edin. I842« Wod. Ed. James MeWille was an eye- 
witness of what he liere describes. Morton*s head was taken down, by order of the 
King, on the 8th December 15^2. 

f A full account of tbe lands and possessions of Morton is given in the infeftment 
and charter embodied in the act of ratification made in Parliament on the 19th day 
of April 1567.— AcU of Scottish Pari. Vol. ii. pp. 602-.56A. 



DALKEITH. 481 

Dald, eighth Earl of Angus, who consequently now became^^A 
Earl of Morton. This Earl was not, however, long spared to en- 
joy his increased honours and patrimony, — for he died at Smeaton, 
near Dalkeith, in 1588, leaving no issue. His death was ascribed . 
to sorcery. 

After the attainder of Morton, and during the reigns of James 
VI. and Charles L, the Palace of Dalkeith was occasionally used 
for the residence of these monarchs, and for other slate purposes, 
as appears from the date of various proclamations, despatches, and 
public deeds of that period. 

On the return of King James VI. to Scotland in 1617, after an 
absence of fourteen years, his Majesty, among other places which 
he honoured with a visit, proceeded to the Palace of Dalkeith on 
the llthday of June that same year. Several congratulatory poems 
were presented to him on the occasion ; and among the rest the 
following verses by Mr Archibald Simpson, minister of the parish, 
seem to intimate that he had been no stranger here in his earlier 
days : 

Et tibi quum dicant Regi tua magna salutem 

Oppida, — ^non magnum tua parvula villa aalutet ? 

ViUula, que Regum quondam secessus amsenus, 

Pectora quum gravibus yoluere remittere curis.^ 

Hue lazB invitant palatia, culta Napoeis 

Prata mei8, gemin& gaudentes Naiades Escft ; 

Invitantque meae leta ad pomsria sylvse . 

Te Drjrades ; Licet bic capiti circurodare myrtum» 

Sacraque PhcebaeA tua tempore dngere lauro : 

Hie legere et cerasos, omnes et carpere fructus, 

Quos suavi Pomona sinu produzerit usquam. 

Hie quoties pavidas canibus committere Damas ? 

Ramosi quoties vivacia pectora cervi 

Figere gaudebas ? quoties baurire sonoras 

Te hie vidi dulces cunctarum, Magoe, Volucnim 

Qus picturacis volitant per inania pennis? &c. &c.* 
• • • • • 

But the strains of the poet failed to propitiate the persecuting 
zeal of the royal despot. For Archibald Simpson, minister of 
Dalkeith, having been employed by his Presbyterian brethren to 
sign and despatch to his Majesty a protestation against some pre- 
latical innovations which his Majesty intended to submit to Pariia- 
ment, was summoned with the rest of the clergy to attend a meeting 
at St Andrews, at which his Majesty was to be present. Falling 
sick by the way, he wrote a letter to his brethren exhorting them 
to oppose these innovations, which he characterised as ^^ Tricas 
Anglicanas,'' using also, as Spottiswood says, '* some other dis« 

* PhUomela Dalketbensis in '* the Muaes' Welcome,*' p. 109. King Jamn'sJirH 
Tisit to Dalkeith was from 12tb to 16th October 1579.— Moyse*s Memoirs, &c 

EDINBURGH. U h 



482 EDINBUROHSHIRB. 

dainful words/' This letter being shown to the King, Mr Simp- 
son was banished to* Aberdeen on the 10th July for six months. 
Having expressed penitence for the offence be had committed, 
and signed a supplication, he was released on the 10th December, 
and permitted to return to bis parish and flock.* 

Charles L spent one night at Dalkeith in his progress to 
Edinburgh in June 1633,t and was magnificently entertained by 
the Earl of Morton. On this occasion, an impressive petition 
was presented to his Majesty by the Presbyterian clergy, setting 
forth their grievances ; but though his Majesty read the petition 
at length, nothing more was heard of it« He spent a night here 
also on his. return to London. In consequence of the tu- 
mult that had taken place in Edinburgh on the 18th October 
1637, the sittings of the Privy Council were removed to Linlith- 
gow ; and on the 7th December following, a proclamation was 
made that the place of sitting of the Council and Exchequer was 
removed from Linlithgow to Dalkeith, *^ where they were to sit 
tuysse a weeke, in his Maiestie's palace ther, from 10 in thefore- 
noone till 2 a clocke in the aftemoone, one Tuesdayes, wich the 
saides Lordes appoyntes for publicke business of stait; and Thurs- 
dayes for priuat bussiness of parties and complain tes."{ These 
meetings were to continue till the 1st of February following, when 
they were to remove to Stirling. Here the subject of the book of 
canons, the service book, and other Episcopal innovations, were 
keenly discussed, but no decision was given by the Commissioner 
till further conference with his Majesty. 

But at every successive stage of their negociations, the differ- 
ences between the King and the Presbyterians were greatly in- 
creased ; — matters were rapidly tending to hostilities ; — and the 
Presbyterians making every effort to procure arms and ammunition, 
among other places, made an attack upon the Palace of Dalkeith. 

* Presbytery Records. A someirhat different aooount is given in Spottiswood^ 
History, p. 532^36. London, 1655. 

t Balfour's Annals, vol. il. page 195. Upon Thursday the 19th June (1638X 
after breakfast, he (m. Charles I.) came from Dunglass to Seaton, an bouse of the 
Earl of Winton*s, where he was nobly entertamed by the £ar1, and staid there till 
Friday the 14th of June after dinner. From thence he went to Dalkeith, a bouse 
belonffing then to the Earl of Morton, /^rd High Treasurer of ScoUand« where be 
was also sumptuously entertained by his Lordship that night, and the next day at 
dinner. June the 15th, on Saturday, in the afternoon, his Majesty came from Dal- 
keith towards Edinburgh (6?e miles distant,) and entered at the West Poi% where 
he was honourably received, &c. Thursday the 1 1th July, the King staid at hb Pa- 
lace of Holyroodhouse. Upon Friday the 12th, he went to Dalkeith, where he stayed 
that night. Upon Saturday, after dinner, he went to Beaton House, &c.— Rush* 
worth's Historical Coll., Vol. ii. folio 1680. 

t Balfour's Annals, toL ii. page 240. 



DALKEITH. .483 

The following is the graphic statement of Sir James Balfour': — 
^^ On Saterday the 22d of Marche, 1639, some of the chieffo Cove- 
nan ters, viz. the Earles of Rothes, Home, Louthean, with the Lordes 
Zester, St Claire, and Balmerinoche, went to Dalkeithe, and with 
them a 1000 commandit musqueteires. They no souner present- 
ed themselves before the housse, hot the Lord Thesaurer Traquair, 
keiper thereofs forthwith delivered it to them. They searched all 
the roumes for armes, and at last found in a seller, dowcat, and a 
draw-well, and in some other obscure places, 48barrells of powder, 
24 barrells of small shote, 6 carte load of musquetts, and 2 of pickes, 
wich they brought to Edinbrughe Castle, one Monday the 24 of 
this same mounthe; lykways from Dalkeithe they brought the royall 
enseinges of the kingdome, croune, suord, and sceptre, and that 
with great solemnity and pompe, and put them upe in Edinburghe 
Castle one Saterday at night, that same day."* It is to this latter 
circumstance that NicoU refers in his Diary, when he says, that 
^^ thrie staris fell doun above the thrie honoris of the kingdome, 
as thai war in the waye transporting fra Dalkeithe to Edinburghe, 
prognosticating the falling of the monarchical! government from 
the Royall family for a tyme."f tit is also recorded by the same 
writer, ** that a great flasche of light fell from the hevins upon 
the 18th day of December 1639, betwixt sevin and aucht at nycht, 
at the Erie of Traquhair's incumming to Dalkeithe from Lundoun 
with^he King's commissioun.":]: 

On the death of Archibald^ fifth Earl of Morton, without issue, 
the estates and honours of that earldom now devolved on Sir WiU 
Ham Douglas of Lochleven, who was descended from Sir John Dou- 
glas of Dalkeith, second son of Sir James Douglas of Lothian, and 
who thus became sixth Earl of Morton. It was to this Sir William 
Douglas that the custody of Queen Mary was entrusted in Loch- 
leven Castle in 1566. His eldest son, Robert, having perished at 
sea on a voyage to the Netherlands, he was succeeded by hi$ 
grandson, William, in 1606. 

William, seventh Earl of Morton, was born in 1582. Being but 
an infant of two years old at the time of his father's death, his 
education was conducted under the care of his grandfather, and 
no expense was spared in obtaining for him the best that could be 
procured at home or abroad. He was a person of great abilities, 
and being possessed of an ample fortune, and highly accomplish- 

* Balfoar*! Annals, pp. 921-2. 

t Nicoirs Diary, page 78. Bannat Club, Edin. 1836. t Ibid. 



^^ EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ed, he was promoted to honourable situations in the court of King 
James VI. He commanded an army of 3000 Scots in Bucking- 
ham's unsuccessful expedition to Rochelle in 1627; and, in IGSQ^ 
he was appointed to the office of Lord High Treasurer, which be 
held for about five years. He received various grants of land, too 
numerous to be here particularized ; and having subscribed the Co- 
venant, *^ band and othe," in presence of his Majesty, and in face of 
Parliament, in 1641, he was nominated to the office of Lord Chan- 
cellor of Scotland ; but, through the envy of his enemies, and 
especially from the strenuous opposition made to his appointment 
by the Earl of Argyle, his son-in-law, the nomination was with- 
drawn.* Being a devoted adherent of the unfortunate Charles, 
he supplied him in his exigencies with large sums of money, which 
so exhausted his resources, that he was obliged, in 1642, to dis- 
pose of his valuable property of Dalkeith to liquidate his engage- 
meuts.-f' This estate was purchased by Francis, second Earl of 
Buccleuch, in whose family it still remains. The civil wars{ had 
already commenced ; and as misfortunes seemed now to be ga- 
thering thick around the head of the unhappy monarch, the 'Earl 
of Morton, overpowered with s6rrow, and feeling that his services 
could be of no avail in rescuing him from his impending ikte, re- 
tired to the Orkneys, where he died at the Castle of Kirkwall in 
1648, in the sixty-sixth year of his age.§ 

The castle and manor of Dalkeith passed from the house of 
Douglas into the hands of the family of Buccleuch in the year 
1642, as has been mentioned ; — Francis, the second Earl, the 
.purchaser, being at the time a minor in the 16th year of bis age, 
and the late Earl Walter, his father, having been nine years 
deceased. 

Family of Buccleuch. — As this noble family has been now 
(1844) for upwards of two centuries in possession of this splendid 
domain ; as, during that period, they have generally chosen it for 
their permanent residence ; and as the generous and paternal inte- 
rest they have always manifested in the welfare of the town and 
parish, as well as that portion of the community more immediately 
connected with them, has won for them the strong affection and 
esteem of the inhabitants ; — a brief sketch of their previous his- 
tory may not be out of place on the present occasion. 

* Sir James BaIfour*8 Annals. ■)- Ibid. 

X ** The year 1687 may be considered as the epoch of a civil war, which lasted with 
short intermission during fifty years.*'— Chalmers's Caledonia, i. p. 862. 
S Crawfurd's Officers of State, p. 405-6. 



DALKEITH. ^^ 

The surname of Scott was probably first employed as the dis- 
tinctive appellation of a Scotsman residing among foreigners, and 
continued to be applied to him after bis return to his native land.* 
The antiquity of the name is proved by its occurrence in charters 
of the earliest period.-!- In course of time, the families of this 
name multiplied into innumerable ramifications. Of these fami- 
lies, two have been regarded as the chief, viz. the Scotts of Bal- 
weary in Fife, and the Scotts of Buccleuch in Selkirkshire. The 
ancestors of this latter family had existed for some generations, 
(1296-1446) in Lanarkshire, under the designation of the Scotts 
of Murdieston ; — till, in 1446, Sir Walter Scott exchanged the 
lands of Murdieston for the lands and barony of Branxholme in 
the county of Roxburgh. Among the circumstances which led to 
this transaction, there are some which are highly characteristic of 
the family and the times* The proprietor of Branxholme had 
complained to Scott, in the course of a conversation about their 
lands, that he was grievously annoyed by the frequent inroads of 
the English freebooters ; upon which Scott proposed an excambion 
of their estates.:^ The proposal was accepted, and Scott dryly re- 
marked, that ^* he had no doubt the cattle of Cumberland would 
be found to be as good as the cattle of Teviotdale."§ Here the 
Scotts continued for some generations as border chieftains of the 
highest renown. They were first designed by the title of ^^ Do« 
minus de Buccleuch," in the Parliament held by James III. at 
Edinburgh, anno 1487. Attaching themselves to the interest of 
the royal family, they became rivals of the house of Douglas, and 
gradually rose in wealth and influence, till, in 1606, Sir Walter 
was raised to the peerage under the title of Lord Scott of Buc- 
cleuch; and in 1619, his son. Lord Walter, attained the dignity 
of Earl of Buccleuch. It was during the minority of Francis^ the 
second Earl^ as we have mentioned above, that the estate of Dal- 
keith came into their hands. This nobleman was prematurely 
cut off by disease in the 25th year of his age, having died at Dal- 

* We have similar examples in the surnames of Inglis, Wallace, and Fleming. 

t ** Uchtred filius Scot** is the earliest instance of this name that is met with. He 
is found as a witness in the Charter of Foundation of the Abbey of Selkirk in a. d. 
Ills, (Dalrym. ColL pages 237 and 405) ; and also in the ** Inquisitio facU per Da- 
▼idem," &c. ibid. 840. Several other very early instances are mentioned by Sir Jamii 
Dalryrople, who remarks that the word ^ Scot'* is not to be considered as originally a 
aumame, but a distinctive appellation derived from the name of the country to which 
the individual belonged. Some of the fiimilies to whom this name was applied, as- 
sumed afterwards a different surname, while others retained it. Dalrym. CoUectionSy 
pages 411-414. 

t The Charter of Excambion is dated 2dd July 1446.— Douglas*8 Peerage, p. 100. 

§ Scotts Lay of the Last Minstrel— Notes. 



486 EDiNBURGHSHIRE. 

keith on the 25th November 1651, leaving only two infant daugh- 
ters, Mary and Anne. As he was greatly distinguished for his 
loyalty to the unfortunate Charles I., his heirs were treated with 
proportionable rigour by the Protector, being fined in the ^ Act of 
Grace" the sum of L. 15,000 Sterling** 

About this period we have some entries in the records of the 
kirk-session, which are curious and interesting. We extract the 
following : — 

<< A. D. 1647, April 15th. The whilk day, Mr Hugh Camp- 
bell and the bailies of Dalkeith declared that the town was in- 
fected. My Lord of Buccleuch was removed to Branxholme, so 
that the kirk of Dalkeith could not be visited until God should 
stay the plague.*' 

'< A. D. 1650, November 21st. The whilk day, the minister 
(Mr Hugh Campbell), having come to his parish but acht or ten 
days before, being affrighted to come near it, by reason of the 
great concourse of the English army therein, desiring to know 
what moneys might be in the poor's box, and calling for the keys 
thereof from those who were entrusted therewith, and not getting 
the same, by advice of the baillies, and some other elders, caused 
break up the said box, it being by this time in Marion Saddler^s 
"house, the kirk being so filled with horse and guards, that neither 
sermon nor session could be kept therein." 

<^ A. D. 1650, December 29th. The whilk day, the minister 
began his first sermon in the parish kirk of Dalkeith, after he had 
a little breathing from the fear of being abused by the English 
sectaries, in case he should have preached publicly in his own pul- 
pit ; and the kirk was cleansed of the horse and guards, and of 
the muck that was therein, the same serving to them as if it had 
been a stable." 

*^ A. D. 1651, May 5th. The whilk day, William Cunning- 
ham, keeper of the penalty box, answered that the box and all 
that was therein was taken away by the Englishmen, and gave his 
honest word thereon, whereupon the said William was discharged." 
** A. D. 1652, February 22d. The same day, Mr Oxenbridge 
gave into the poor's box, as having received the same from the 
Commissioners of the Parliament of England residing at Dalkeith, 
to be bestowed on the poor, L.3, 15s. Sterling.*^ 

" The Aet of Grace is given at full length in the appendix. No. 19, to Cravfbrdli 
Liyea of the OfiBcers of State, pages 452-459. Among many others, ** the aires of 
the Erie of Buccleugh were fyned 15,000 It, all to be payit, or in case of fidlure, tiie 
real and personal estait of every one defaulter to be confiscat.*^ 



DALKBITH. 487 

Cromwell entered Scotland with his army on the 22d July 
1650. The gloom that clouded the commencement of his enter- 
prise was dissipated by the eventful battle of Dunbar, fought on 
the 3d September following. Charles 11. quickly placed himself 
at the head of his troops, and boldly determined to advance into 
England ; but he was closely followed by Cromwell ; and his de* 
feat at Worcester, on the Sd September 1651, placed both coun- 
tries at the nod of the conqueror. In the meantime, General 
Monk had been left in Scotland to reduce or overawe the rest of 
the country ; and eight commissioners, appointed by the parliament 
for the management of Scottish affairs, occupied the castle of Dal- 
keith, and held a convention of the representatives of counties and 
burghs, for the purpose of incorporating England and Scotland. 
The dissolution of the parliament on the 20th April 1653, put a 
stop to these proceedings, and on the I6th December following, 
Cromwell was proclaimed Protector of England.* 

In 1653, Monk had been appointed to the command of the 
English fleet, and the opportunity was embraced of making an- 
other effort in favour of Charles 11. ; but, in 1654, Monk was 
reinstated in his command of the troops in Scotland, and, by his 
decision and mildness, soon succeeded in restoring tranquillity. 

The presence of this able general in Scotland being considered 
necessary to maintain the peace of the country, he fixed his head- 
quarters at the Palace of Dalkeith, in 1654, a lease of which for five 
yearshe obtained from theguardiansof Mary, the youthful Countess 
of Buccleuch. Here he lived in comparative retirement, and, by a 
happy union of rural pursuits, with the most unremitting attention 
to his official duties, his residence at Dalkeith was a source of 
happiness to himself and advantage to his country. During his 
stay at Dalkeith, his family was afflicted by the death of one of 
his sons, who was buried in the chancel of the parish church ; and 
the poignant but manly grief which the general manifested on this 
sad occasion is spoken of in terms of the highest commendation by 
his biographers.f 

On the death of the Protector, 3d September 1658, measures 
were originated for the restoration of Charles. We are told by 
his biogr^her,^ that, while the general was residing at Dal- 

* See Lingard** History of England, Vol. x. page 874. London, 1839. 

f Gumble^a Life of General Monk. London, 1671, page 475. Dr Gumblo was 
one of Monk's chaplains, and an eye-witness of the transactions which be records, 
from 1655 and downwards. 

t Skinner's Life of General Monk, edited by Webster. London, 1724, page 99. 



1 



483 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

keithy he was visited by his brother, Mr Nicholas Monk, 
who, under the pretext of making the general acquainted with 
the intended marriage of his daughter, had come to Scotland 
without suspicion to inform him of the projected restoration of 
the absent prince. He stayed at Dalkeith about two months^ 
during which time their measures were no doubt properly matured. 
The arrangements were conducted with the utmost secrecy ; the 
general withdrew his army from Scotland to London on the 18th 
October 1659; and Charles landed at Dover on the 25th May 1660, 
and was received by his subjects with every demonstration of 
joy. But that Monk, though a person of the most reserved and 
close disposition, did not altogether escape the vigilant suspicion 
of Cromwell when alive, is evident from the very characteristic 
postscript of one of bis letters. The Protector says, ** There be 
that tell me that there is a certain cunning fellow in Scotland, 
called George Monck, who is said to lie in wait there to intro- 
duce Charles Stuart. I pray, use your diligence to apprehend 
him, and send him up to me."* 

Monk's correspondence, as preserved by Thurlow, is remark- 
able for its brevity and business character ; but it contains no in- 
formation peculiar to the locality in which he resided. The first 
document, bearing date at Dalkeith, is a proclamation of the 4th 
May 1654, offering pardon to all who shall submit within twenty 
days, and his last letter from Dalkeith is dated 1 2th May 1659. 

After the departure of General Monk, Dalkeith ceases to be 
a place of public notoriety, and its history is chiefly confined to the 
family of the noble proprietors. 

On the death of Francis, the second Earl, in 1651, the manor 
of Dalkeith devolved on his eldest daughter Mary, then in her 
fifth year. This lady was married at the early age of eleven, to 
Walter Scott of the house of Harden, who was only in his four- 
teenth year. She died in 1661, two years after, having no issue, 
and was buried with great pomp in the church of Dalkeith. This 
marriage, brought about principally by her mother, ^^ Lady Weims, 
a witty, active woman,*'f from the apprehension that she might be- 
come the prey of fortune-hunters, excited a great deal of interest 
I at the time, and was debated in the Synod of Fife, chiefly at the 

instance of Scot of Scotstarvet, her tutor sine quo non^ but nothing 
I was done to alter or reverse it. 

B * Skiniier*8 Life, Ac., p. 72. 

I f Baillie*8 Letters, Vol* lii. p. 438. Ed in. It was said in reference to this Mjp 

i that ** Monk governed Scotland through the Duchess of Buccleuch.** 



DALKEITH. 489 

On the decease of the Countess Mary^ she was succeeded by 
her younger sister, the Countess Anne, who was born at Dundee, 
in 1651, about the time when it was besieged by General Monk. 
She was married, on the 20th April 1663^ to James Duke of 
Monmouth, natural son of Charles IL, and then only in his Gf- 
teenth year. On the day of their marriage, they were created 
Duke and Duchess of Buccleuch, and their marriage was ratiGed 
by Act of Parliament,* Having had considerable experience in 
foreign wars, his Grace was commissioned, in 1679, to oppose the 
Covenanters in Scotland. Though successful in that undertaking, 
he was subsequently ordered to leave the kingdom, in consequence 
of some state suspicions that he had incurred. On the death of his 
father in 1685, he was induced to aspire to the throne, in opposition 
to his uncle, James IL Being defeated and taken prisoner at the 
battle of Sedgemoor,he was condemned without a trial, and executed 
on the Tower Hill, on the 15th July 1685. By her marriage with 
the Duke, which, from his loose habits, was far from being a 
happy one, the Duchess had four sons and three daughters. She 
was subsequently married to Lord Cornwallis, by whom she had 
one son and two daughters. The Duke's personal estates and 
property being forfeited to the Crown, were restored to her in 
1687. Shortly afterwards she built the present palace at Dal- 
keith, and occasionally lived there in princely splendour. She 
died on the 6th February 1732, in the eighty-first year of her 
age, and was buried in the aisle of Dalkeith.f 

Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch, was succeeded by her grandson^ 
Francis. His father, -James, Earl of Dalkeith, second son of 
Anne, by the Duke of Monmouth, lived chiefly in Flanders dur- 
ing the reign of William, but returned to Scotland on the acces- 
sion of Queen Anne, in 1702, and died in 1705, in the thirty-first 
year of his age, leaving four sous and two daughters. 

Francis, second Duke of Buccleuch, son of James, Earl of 
Dalkeith, was born on the 11th January 1695, and succeeded to 
the estate in 1782. He was married to Lady Jane Douglas, 
daughter of James, second Duke of Queensberry, and by her bad 
two sons and three daughters. She died at London on the 21st 
August 1729, in the 29th year of her age, and '* her remains were 

* Acts of Scott. Pari. Vol. Tiii. p. 454-^, and p. 494. 

f For aome brief characteristic traits of this celebrated Duchesa, see Chambers' 
Traditions of Edinburgh, Vol. U. p. 42-44 (1825.) 

3 



490 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

laid upon a theatre in the laigh aisle of Dalkeith.*** He was a 
steady supporter of the Hanoverian family, and, as a reward for 
his loyalty, was presented with two of the English titles, viz. Earl 
of Doncaster and Baron of Tynedale, belonging to his grand- 
father, James, Duke of Monmouth, and the precedency which 
they originally acquired. On the approach of the Pretender to 
Edinburgh, in September 1745, he sent his tenantry to assist in 
defending the city. After the battle of Prestonpans, when the 
Prince had resolved to march southwards to encounter General 
Wade at Newcastle, the Prince lodged two nights at the Palace 
of Dalkeith. A detachment of his army had been stationed a little 
towards the south-west of the town, but no tradition or memorial 
of the circumstance, so far as we have learned, exists in the neigh- 
bourhood.*f He died on the 22d April 1751, and was buried in the 
Chapel of Eton College. His eldest son, Francis, Earl of Dal- 
keith, was married to Lady Caroline Campbell, eldest daughter of 
the famous John, Duke of Ai^le, and had four sons j: and two 
daughters. He was prematurely cut off by the smalUpoz in the 
year 1750, in the thirtieth year of his age, and was buried at 
Dalkeith. 

Henry, third Duke of Buccleuch, son of Earl Francis, and grand- 
son of the Duke of Argyle, was born the 13th September 1746, 
and succeeded his grandfather in 1751. He was educated at Eton 
College, and had the great advantage of travelling for nearly three 
years under the care of the celebrated Dr Adam Smith, of whom he 
speaks in terms of the greatest affection and regard.§ Shortly after 
returning from his travels, his Grace married Lady Elizabeth Mon- 
tagu on the *2d May 1767; and as he had not yet attained his 
majority, an Act of Parliament was obtained to enable him to make 
the necessary settlements on his intended wife. By her he had 
three sons and three daughters. Being now settled in life, he was 
soon promoted to those honorary stations to which his rank and 
fortune called him ; and he not only directed his attention with 
enlightened zeal to the improvement of his extensive possessions, 
but, with a generous patriotism, he look a lively interest in all the 

* Register of Burials. 

t Chambers' History of the Rebellion in 1745. 

t The -Hon. Campbell Soott, who accompanied his brother Duke Henryi in bis 
travels with Dr Adam Smith, was assassinated on the streets of Paris on the Idtb 
October 1766, in his nineteenth year. His remains were brought home by his bro- 
ther, and deposited in the family vault at Dalkeith. 

§ Dugald Stewart's Life of Dr Adam Smith. 

4 



DALKEITH. 491 

public measures that were undertaken for the good of the country. 
During the protracted war with France, he raised a regiment of 
fencibles, chiefly from the inhabitants on his own estates ; and by 
the condescension and kindness of his manners, and his close ap- 
plication to his military duties, he secured the affection and esteem 
of all under his command. Nor was his amiable Duchess less 
eminent for her virtues within her appropriate sphere. Seldom 
has fortune bestowed her favours upon one who possessed a heart 
more generous and kind, and whose hand, guided by a sound dis- 
cretion, was more readily stretched out to relieve the distressed. 
Many anecdotes are told of her charity, and her name is never 
mentioned here but in t^ms of the very highest respect Duke 
Henry died on the 11th January 1812, and was burled on the 17th, 
in the aisle of Dalkeith church. The Duchess-Dowager Elizabeth 
survived him for flfteen years; she died at Richmond on the 
21st November 1827, and was buried in the family vault at Bough'- 
ton in Northamptonshire. 

Charles William, fourth Duke of Ruccleuch, was born on the 
24th May 1772, and succeeded his father, Duke Henry, on the 
11th January 1812. He was educated at Eton College. Having 
been repeatedly elected Member of Parliament, he was summoned 
to the House of Lords by the title of Baron Tynedale on the 1 1th 
April 1807. He married his cousin, the Hon. Lady Catherine 
Townshend, on the 23d March 1795, by whom he had three sons 
and five daughters. This amiable lady died on the 24th of Au- 
gust 1814, and was buried in the family vault at Boughton. 
Duke Charles having gone to Lisbon for the recovery of his health, 
died there on the 20th of April 1819, and his remains, being con- 
veyed to England, were deposited in the cemetery at Boughton, 
beside those of his lamented Duchess. 

Dalkeith Palace was honoured with the residence of King 
George IV. during his visit to Scotland in 1822. He came to 
Dalkeith on Thursday the 15th August, and departed on Thurs- 
day the 29th. 

Walter Francis Montague Scott Douglas, ,/f/^A Duke of Buc- 
cleuch, was born on the S5th November 1806, and succeeded his 
father in 1819. He was educated at Eton College and St John's 
College, Cambridge, where he took his degree of a. m. Having 
visited several of the countries of Europe, he returned in 1828, 
and entered on the possession of his extensive domains. Nothing 
can exceed the generosity which his Grace has always evinced in 



492 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

promotibg the improvement of his estates aod the comfort of his 
tenantry ; and the magnificent works which he has undertaken, 
will transmit his name to posterity, as one of the most enterprising 
and public-spirited noblemen of the age.* 

When Her Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria visited Scotland 
on the 1st September 1842, Dalkeith Palace was honoured with 
her residence ; and, assuredly, at no former period of its history 
did a brighter assemblage of the nobility, the beauty, the fashion, 
and the worth of this ancient kingdom throng the halls of the pa- 
lace and the streets of Dalkeith than on Monday the 5th Septem- 
ber, the day of the celebrated reception. Her Majesty visited the 
seats of the nobility in the neighbourho<^; and, after a brief so- 
journ of two weeks in this country. Her Majesty, on the 15tb, 
left Dalkeith Palace, and embarked at Granton Pier for her south- 
ern capital. 

There is a ground plan of the town of Dalkeith on a scale of 
one inch to 132 feet, which was published in 1822 by Mr J. Wood. 

Eminent Characters. — 1. John Rolland. Nothing whatever is 
known of the parentage or personal history of this individual.-f* He 
is the author of two poems, one of which is called ^* The Court of 
Venus," and the other, " The Seavin Sages." The title of the 
former is as follo\Ks : *^ Ane Treatise, callit the Court of Venus, 
dividit into four Buikes, newly compylit be Johne Roland in Dal- 
keith. [Impre]ntit at Edinburgh by [Jo]hne Ros, mdlxxy. 
Cum privilegio Rega^li." This work is of such extraordinary rarity, 
that the copy in the British Museum is the only one known to be 
extant It is said to be a prolix and uninteresting allegory, and 
an evident imitation of ^' The Palace of Honour," by Gawin 
Douglas. 

The title-page of the second poem runs thus, ^* The Seuio 
Seages, translatit out of Prois into Scottis Meter, be Johne Rol- 
land, in Dalkeith; with ane Moralitie efter euerie Doctouris Tale, 
and sicklike efter the Emprice Tale f to gidder with ane louing 
and laude to euerie Doctour eftir his awin Tale, and ane Excla- 
mation and Outcrying upon the Empreouris Wife eftir hir fals 
contrusit Tale. (Motto) Tandem Veritas vincet Imprentit at 
Edinburgh be Johne Ros for Henrie Charteris, mdlxxvii. Cum 

* His Grace vas roarried,'on the )Sth August 1 829, to Lady Charlotte Anne 
Thynne, daughter of Hiomas, second Marquis of Bath. They hare four surviTing 
sons, and one deceased. 

•f* We may infer, however, from various parts of his poems, that he was attached to 
the principles of the Reformation. 



DALKEITH. 493 

privilegio RegalL'' A perfect fac-simile of this poem in black letter 
was printed at Edinburgh by the Bannatyne Club in 1837. 

12. Sir William CaldenKood, Lord Polton, one of the senators 
of the College of Justice, was born at Dalkeith in 1661. He was 
the son of Alexander Calderwood, Bailie of Dalkeith, nephew of 
Dr William Calderwood, minister of Dalkeith, smd ffratid- nephew 
of the famous historian of that name. He was admitted advocate 
on the 1st July 1687, and became one of the sheriffs of Edipburgh 
after the Revolution; he was knighted in or before 1707; took 
his seat as a Lord of Session, under the title of Lord Polton, on 
the 6th November 1711 ; and died on the 7th August 1733 in 
the seventy-third year of his age.* 

During the latter part of the seventeenth, and the whole of the 
eighteenth centuries, the Grammar School of Dalkeith attained 
very high celebrity. It was numerously attended ; and some of 
the pupils rose afterwards to the highest literary and professional 
eminence. It may be sufficient to mention the names of the cele* 
brated Archibald Pitcairn, M.D., who left school in or before 1688 ; 
— Principal Robertson, the historian, who left school at the autum- 
nal vacation in 1733; — Henry Dundas, afterwards Lord Melville, 
born in 1741, who became First Ix)rdof the Admiralty, and one of 
the most eminent statesmen of the age ;— Alexander Wedderburn, 
son of Lord Chesterhall, born in 1733, who became Lord High 
Chancellor of England, under the title of Lord Loughborough, and 
was the first Scotchman who held that office ; — Dr John Hope, 
Professor of Botany in the University of Edinburgh ; — William 
Creech, Esq., bookseller, and Lord Provost of Edinburgh, &c. &c. 

Mr John Veitch, minister of.Westruther, died at Dalkeith go- 
ing home from the Commission, and on the IBth December 1703, 
was buried there,*!* among his ancestors, who had a considerable 
estate in and about that town for a hundred years together. The 
tombstone erected to his memory in the churchyard of Dalkeith, 
the inscription of which was copied by Monteith in his Theatre of 
Mortality, is not now to be found. Nor is there any proprietor of 
the name of Veitch now belonging to this parish. 

Mr Robert Mushet, late master's first clerk, melter and refiner, 
of the Royal Mint, London, was born at Dalkeith on the 12th 
November 1782. He received in his native town the usual course 
of school education. In 1804, he obtained a situation in the Mint, 

* Haig's Catalogue of the Seaatora of the College of Justice, page 492. 

t Register of Burials. Also M^Crie's Life of Veitch. Edinburgh, 1825, p. 3, &c. 



1 



494 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

London, as assistant in the melting of gold and silver. Mr Mushet 
soon acquired a thorough knowledge of this department of the busi- 
ness, and was entrusted with the whole responsibility of conducting 
the operations of the melting house, which, at that time, were carried 
on in the Tower, as had been done for ages before. Shortly after this 
the new Mint was Bnished, and, being provided with enlarged fur- 
naces and more powerful machinery, the coinage of gold and sil- 
ver was increased to a greater extent than had formerly been prac- 
ticable. In 1816 and 1817, the great silver recoinage took place 
under the direction of Lord Maryborough, on which occasion Mr 
Mushet was appointed first clerk and melter, — including gold, 
silver, and copper, at certain prices, at the dictation of his Lord- 
ship, at least. 25 per cent, lower than had been formerly paid at 
the mint. To this office was afterwards added that of refiner both 
of gold and silver; — all which operations Mr Mushet personally 
superintended for many years with so much fidelity and skill, that 
he was now considered by all connected with the mint establishment 
as a most useful and efficient public servant As a proof of the 
great responsibility of this office, it may be mentioned, that, dur- 
ing the progress of the great coinage, Mr Mushet had frequently 
under his lock and key not less than half a million of bullion. 

In the course of twenty- three years, Mr Mushet had acquired 
a handsome competency ; but, from his close application to busi- 
ness, and his frequent exposure to the noxious atmosphere of the 
melting house, his health, which had long been delicate, became 
now so seriously affected, that, in the winter of 1827, he found 
himself unable to continue his personal services. He died in 
February 1828, at his country residence near Edmonton. He 
was buried in the church in the Tower, in compliance with an 
anxious wish expressed by him on his deathbed, that his remains 
should be deposited there near the scene of his early labours.* 

Mr Mushet's evidence before the Lords' committee upon the 
subject of the new silver coinage, was, at the time, of considerable 
value, and was thought to have had weight with the Duke of Wel- 
lington and Lord Liverpool, in consenting to the measure after* 

* Mr Mushet was author of the following works : — 

1. Inquiry into the Efiects produced on the National Currency and Rates of Ex- 
change hy the Bank Restriction Bill London, 1810, Sto. 

2. A Series of Tables, exhibiting the Gain and Loss to the Fundholder, arising 
fh>xn the Fluctuations in the Value of the Currency, from 1800 to 1821. London, 

1821, 8vo. 

8. An Attempt to explain from Facts the Effect of the Issues of the Bank of Eng- 
land upon its own Interests, Public Credit, and Country Banks. London, 1826, Bw, 
'215 pages. 



DALKEITH. 4^6 

wards adopted of coining 66s. in place of 62s. from the pound 
Troy of silver, — a measure which has%ince secured to the country 
a plentiful supply of changei and has tended to prevent its expor- 
tation. 

David Mushet, Esq* eldest brother of the above, was born at 
Dalkeith on the 2d October 1772. He has resided many years in 
England, and greatly distinguished himself by his discoveries and 
improvements in metallurgy.* 

Mr John Kay, whose portraits of remarkable characters of the 
last generation have obtained so great popularity, was a native of 
Dalkeith parish. He was born on the 6th April 1742, at a small 
cottage called Gibraltar, on the banks of the South Esk, in the 
immediate neighbourhood of Dalkeith. He died at Edinburgh 
on the 21st February 1826, in the eighty-fourth year of his age.f 

Mr Grant Thorburn, seedsman. New York, the original Lawrie 
Tody though a native of Newbattle parish, where he was born on 
the 18th February 1773, lived in Dalkeith from his childhood till 
he sailed for New York on the Idth April 1794. He is a man 
of great piety and worth, though of a remarkably lively and eccen- 
tric character. He visited Dalkeith in 1834, when he published 
his Autobiography, which he dedicates, with characteristic singu- 
larity and elegance, to Her Grace the Duchess of Buccleuch. 

Dalkeith has long been well supplied with gentlemen of the 
medical profession. In 1784 Robert Calderwood, surgeon, Dal- 
keith, published ^* an Account of the discharge of animals by the 
anus much resembling the common caterpillar, and which were 
found to be the same kind of insect."} Dr Andrew Graham, a 
gentleman of eminent professional ability, maintained an extensive 
practice in this town and neighbourhood for forty years, and died 
in 1824. At present we have four doctors of medicine in good 
employment. Of these Dr Charles William Graham, son of the 
above, is already known to the scientiBc part of the profession by 
his successful application of the sulphate of zinc as a remedy in 
diseases where it had not previously been employed ; and also for 
various contributions to the Edinburgh Medical Journal. § 

* Mr David Miubet is author of Uie following work !•— 

Papers on Iron and Steel, Practical and Experimental { a series of original com. 
munications made to the Philosophical Magazine chiefly on these subjects. London, 
1840» 8vo, 926 pages. 

t He was author of the foUowing work :— <* A series of Original Portraits and Ca- 
ricature Etchings, with Biographical Sketches and Anecdotes, 2 vols.> Edin. 1842. 

% Med. Com. ix. p. 223, 1784. Watt's Bibliotheca. 

S Edin. Med. Journal, July 1826, page 107. 



496 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Alexander Barrie, Esq. teacher in Edinburgh, and author of 
the ** Collection" and several other popular school-books, resided 
many years in Dalkeith. He was a native of the parish of Mo- 
nedie. He died at Dalkeith on the 9th May 1831, at the age of 
61, and was buried in the new burying-ground. 

John Berrie, Esq. merchant, was born in Dalkeith on the dOth 
September 1762. He published **an Abridgment of Marshall 
on Sanctification." Edinburgh, 1820. And " an Abridgment of 
Caryl's Exposition of the Book of Job." Edinburgh, 1836, 8vo. 
He died on the 17th July 1838. He was a man of high respec- 
tability, and took an active part in the management of the reli- 
gious and charitable institutions of the town. 

In 1842 the Blane gold medal was presented to Dr James Or- 
miston M^ William, surgeon, R. N., a native of Dalkeith, who ac- 
companied the Niger Expedition as chief medical oflScer. This me- 
dal, given by the late Sir Gilbert Blane, is awarded every second 
year for the best medical journal in the service. Dr M* William's 
journal contained the cases that occurred on board H.M.S. Scout, 
of which he was surgeon, when that vessel was enaployed on the 
coast of Africa in the years 1838 and 1839.* 

Zjand'OwnerSf Sfc, — The chief land-owners of the parish are. 
His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch, who possesses about seven- 
eighths of the whole; Lord Viscount Melville; the heirs of 
the late Hugh Watson, Esq. of Torsonce ; the heirs of the late 
John Watson, Esq., Leith ; the trustees of James Ker, Esq. of 
Blackshiels; the Marquis of Lothian, &c. &c. 

At the western extremity of the parish are situated the 
lands belonging to Lord Melville. They consist of 126 imperial 
acres, are of excellent soil, and, with the exception of some plan- 
tations, are all under cultivation. There, too, is the brickfield 
belonging to the trustees of the town of Dalkeith ; it has been 
wrought for a considerable time, and yields a small revenue to the 
town. Next to it is the small tract of land belonging to the 
kirk^session. The space betwixt this and the town is occupied by 
tracts of land belonging to several small proprietors. Grallows- 
hall is a central point, intersected by six high roads, and is a great 
thoroughfare. Eskbank House, which was erected in 1794 by 
the Rev. James Brown, minister of Newbattle, became the pro- 
perty of the late John Moffat, Esq. Musselburgh, and belongs 
now by feu to His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch. It overlooks 

* Edinburgh CouMDt of December 1^ 1842. 



DALKEITH. 497 

the finely wooded banks of the North Esk, and commands a beau* 
tiful and e&tensive prospect to the west and north. 

The town of Dalkeith stands upon the peninsular ridge' which 
slopes abruptly on the north side, and more gradually on the south, 
to the respective waters. The banks on the side of the town are 
adorned with gardens, plentifully stocked with fruit-trees; and on 
the opposite sides are clothed with the loftier woods in the plea* 
sure-grounds of Dalkeith Palace, Woodburn, and Newbattle Ab- 
bey. Nothing can be more beautiful than the scenery with which 
the town is encompassed. In the fine sqmmer evenings, the luxu- 
riant foliage of the woods, — ^the varied hues and fragrance of 
flowers, — and the rich notes of the blackbird and the thrush con- 
spire to invest these lovely banks with the most attractive charms. 

The pleasure-grounds* connected with the palace of His Grace 
the Duke of Buocleuch comprise in all a space of 1035 imperial 
acres, and extend into the parishes of Newton and Inveresk. That 
part of them especially which belongs to the parish of Dalkeith 
possesses much natural beailty. The rivers, on entering the park, 
pursue a winding course under the dark foliage that overhangs 
their banks, presenting at every turn diversified scenery of the 
richest beauty, till they unite their waters at the distance of about 
three miles above their influx into the sea. The banks of the 
rivers, as well as the rest of the park, are tastefully laid out in 
walks, carriage-ways, shrubberies, and plantations. The oak fo- 
rest, with its venerable moss-covered trunks and gnarled branches, 
—numerous herds of deer ranging the woods, or grazing on the 
open ground at some distance from the palace, — the cawing of 
clouds of rooks that have for ages appropriated the oakwood for 
their residence, — and the solitary heron from the adjacent heron- 
ry, watching in the stream for its prey, or spreading its ample 
wings on the slightest disturbance, — all tend to heighten the ro* 



* That the pleasure grouniis of Dalkeith Palace were formerly an object of admi- 
ration, might be shown from the journals of Defoe, Pennant, and others who Tisited 
them. We shall subjoin an extract from a poem published in 1752, and entitled 
<* Dalkeith, a Poem, occasioned by a view of that delightful Palace and Park, the 
seat of His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch," &c. By a Scotch Gentleman. London, 
1732.— The poem oontains about five folio pages. 
After the procemium, it goes on as follows : 

Clasped in the folds of two embracing floods, 

Compassed with gentle hills and rising woods. 

On a green bank the beauteous palace stands. 

And the subjected stream with pride commands. 

What though no lofty domes project in air. 

Or lengthened colonnades with pride appear : 

Yet is the whole in single state design ed«— 

Plain and majestic, like its Monmouth's mind, &c. &c. 

^EDINBURGH. 1 1 



498 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

maotic scenery, and remind us that we are treading the domains 
of baronial grandeur, which equal, if not surpass, the splendour of 
its brightest days. 

The palace is a plain but tasteful building, overlooking the North 
Esk, and situate near the north-east end of the town. It stands 
upon the site of the old castle, and was erected about the begin- 
ning of the last century, by Anne Duchess of Buccleuch and Mon- 
mouth. The building was not entirely new, as the back wall of 
the castle still remains ; but a new front and wings were then add- 
ed in imitation of the Palace of Loo in the Netherlands, though 
on a smaller scale.* The beautiful lawn in front of the palace is 
partly artificial, the ancient castle being insulated, with a ravine 
behind and the river in front, crossed by a drawbridge. That 
this was the natural course of the stream is still apparent, from an 
examination of the bank of the river at this place. The castle is 
said to have stood upon an elevated rock.f This statement, how- 
ever, has been rendered doubtful, from the excavations that were 
made in examining the foundations of 'the palace in 1830. The 
walls were traced to the depth of upwards of 30 feet, but no ap- 
pearance of rock was seen. There is rock visible, however, at the 
present level of the water ; and near the margin of the river there 
is a portion of the wall supporting the bank, which appears to be 
a remnant of the old outworks of the castle. 

The interior of the palace is richly provided with all the accom- 
modations and embellishments befitting the residence of so noble 
a family. Where there is so much to attract and admire^ it is 
impossible within our narrow limits to condescend on particulars. 
But we naturally look with no common interest on the apartments 
occupied by Monk, the restorer of the monarchy ; — and the fur- 
niture presented by Charles II. to his son, the Duke of Monmoutht 
on his marriage with Anne, the heiress of Buccleuch, which is de- 
posited here, and is still in excellent preservation, will now be re- 
garded as having a claim even upon the attention of antiquaries. 

The collection of paintings is ample and select ; embracing 
subjects of every description, — family portraits and family groups, 
cities, landscapes, and sea views, — historical, scriptural, and fancy 
pieces, — many of which by the most eminent masters.} The fol- 
lowing deserve particular notice : — 

* Gough's Cambden, Vol. !▼. page 46. t Old Statistical Account. 

X Mr Dibdin, in his Northern Tour (1888, 8vo, Vol. ii. pp. 646-651,) gives an 
account of his visit to Dalkeith Palace, with notices of the paintings and library. See 
also Pennant's Tour in Scotland in 1769, who gives a list of sixteen paintings or por- 
traits in Dalkeith House. 



DALKEITH. 499 

Three laodscapes .by Claude, one of them of large size, aud 
a splendid specimen of his best style. 

A large painting by Andrea del Sarto. 

A Jewish bride by Rembrandt 

A rocky landscape, with banditti, by Salvator Rosa. 

A splendid series of views in Venice, consisting of seven large 
pictures, by Canalette. 

Another large and fine specimen of the same master, consist* 
ing of a view taken from a point near Montagu House, White* 
hall, his Grace's residence in London. 

Two beautiful paintings, a St Francis and a St Dominic, by 
Annibal Caracci. 

A hunting piece by Wouvermans, an exquisite production of 
that master. 

Two pictures, — a waterfall and a sea-port, — by Vernet. 

A landscape by Wynants. 

Two cattle pieces by Vandervelde. 

Among the portraits, there are three by Vandyke of first-rate 
excellence. 

Three splendid pictures, (family portraits,) by Sir Joshua Rey- 
nolds. 

Three family portraits by Gainsborough, first-rate specimens 
of that master. 

A portrait of George the Fourth by Wilkie, presented by the 
King to his Grace after his visit to Scotland in 1822. 

Several Holbeins. 

A very curious picture of Charles I. going out a-hunting. 

And there are also some fine specimens of Sir Peter Lely, Sir 
Godfrey Kneller, and of other eminent painters. 

The site of the garden was changed in 1839 from a low and 
sheltered spot on the banks of the South Esk to a more elevated 
and open exposure in the neighbourhood of Lugton ; and the 
whole has been laid. out and completed in a superior style by the 
present head gardener, Mr Charles Macintosh,* whose profes- 
sional skill has been most successfully exerted in the improvements 
which he has introduced into this most elegant and useful depart* 
ment of rural economy. 

* Mr Macintosh was formerly bead gardener to the King of the Belgians, and is 
author of" The Modern Horticulturist,"—** Flora and Pomona,"—" The Orchard,'' 
— »• The Green House,"* &c. 



&00 BDINBUROH8HIRB. 

LugUm. — This place, which is called Logton in the ancie&C re- 
cords, formerly constituted a separate barony, with a fortalice, and 
belonged to a branch of the family of Douglas.* The earliest pro- 
prietor that is met with is William Douglas, Lord of Liddesdale, 
who, about the middle of the fourteenth century, obtained the barony 
of Dalkeith by his marriage with Marjory Graham, the heiress of that 
property. Subsequently the barony of Lugton seems to have been 
for a time divided ; as we find that one-third part was possessed in 
the reigns of David IL and Robert II. by Henry Douglas, who is 
designed of Lochleven and Lugton.'f' After the attainder of the 
Regent in 1581, it was acquired by Patrick Crichton,} in whose 
family it remained a considerable time.§ In 1693 we find it in- 
cluded in a charter II granted to Anne, Duchess of Buccleucfa, and 
in that family it still remains. The barony of Lugton was detach* 
ed from the parish of St Andrew's in 1683, and annexed to the 
parish of Dalkeith.f The village, till very lately, was chiefly m- 
habited bv colliers. 

Cowden, — This place, called Golden in our ancient records, 
was, so far back as our information goes, comprehended within the 
barony of Dalkeith. It was possessed by Peter Luband, Knight, 
in the reign of Robert I. ; but on his being attainted, it was confer- 
red upon Robert de Lawder,** who received various other grants 
of forfeited lands from that distinguished prince. At what period 
it came into the hands of the proprietors of Dalkeith we have not 
been able to ascertain. It now consists of two farms, Easter and 
Wester Cowden, which^ together with a part of the farm of Lang- 
side, and the village of Whitehill, make up the south-eastern por- 
tion of the parish. The coaUfields in the grounds of Cowden 
were begun to be worked in 1837. Dwelling-houses for the col- 

* Among the mi&sing charters of David 1 1., there is one entitled, ** Charter to WIU 
liam Logtoune of the lands of Logtoune in vice, Edinburgh.**— •Robertson's Index, 
poge 40, 14. See also Krgist. Mago. Sigill. 66, 232 ; 156, 14. 

** In 1707,'' Sir R. Sibbald informs us, " that the track of a Roman road appew- 
eth yet in the way from Musselburgh to Lugton, and from thence to Bortbwick 
Ca«tie.**— Caledoo. Vol. i. page 143, note (k.) But no tncea of it, io this pariab 
at least, are no«r to be seen. 

t Robert. Index, 65, 5, and 125, 4. 

^ Acts of Scott Pari. Vol. iii. page 274. 

§ In 1640 Sir David Crichton of Lugton is commissioner for the shire of Edin- 
burgh. He officiates at the conferring of knighthood upon four eaqulnML ^ He put a 
gilt spur upon their right heel, as being the ancientcst knight then present**— Bal* 
four*s Annals, Vol. iii. page 140. 

'II Acts of Scott. Pari. Vol. ix. 343. t Ibid. Vol. t. 145. 

** Rigi'-t. Magn. Sigill.. psge 12, 62. See also 13, 68, and I7« 6»- The same 
Robert Lander received an annual pension of L.20, to be derived from the revenues of 
the Justiciary Couru held on the oortb of tlie livcr Forth. (Page 31) 67.) 



DALKEITH. 50( 

liers of a very superior descriptioD have been recently erected 
at Whitehill and Thorny bank, and impart an air of elegance and 
comfort to the neighbourhood. The brickfield at the north-east- 
ern extremity of the parish was begun to be wrought in 1837 : it 
yields an ample supply of bricks and tiles, which are formed with 
astonishing rapidity by a very ingenious machine, contrived by the 
present Marquis of Tweeddale. 

Parochial RegUters. — The first register is a small quarto, very 
imperfect; it contains baptisms and marriages from 1612 to 
1617. There is a small square volume, beginning with the fol- 
lowing title : '* Compt of the mortclaith made 8th August 1632- 
1639;" it contains also various mortifications and dispositions. 
The next contains a register of baptisms, from 1639 to 1651 ;-— 
marriages, from 1639 to 1652; — and minutes, from 1641 to 1653. 
Some leaves are wanting at the beginning of the minutes. The 
first minute is dated the 4th July 1641, and the last is dated 
19th June 1653. There is a gap in the series from 1653 to 
1659.^-Thereis a minute«book, and treasurer's accounts, from 1674 
to 1661 ; it is in a most imperfect state, many leaves being wanting 
both at the beginning, in the course of the book, and at the end. — 
Minute-book from 1659 to 1680, commencing Tuesday, December 
28th. A compt and reckoning book from 1687 to 1690. There is 
another gap in the series of minutes from 1680 to February 8th 1691. 
There is a register of things acted, from February 1691 to 14th 
November 1701. Register from 14th November 1701 to 22d 
May 1709. Register of acts, &c. from 17th February 1723 to 
8d December 1766. In page 64 of the minute-book for 1693, 
there is a list of session books. — The records from the commence- 
ment of the eighteenth century to the present time are complete, 
and, with some exceptions, well kept. The register of deaths and 
burials seems for some years to have been altogether neglected. 
Several of the volumes are in very bad order ; the edges are much 
worn, and many leaves are loose ; in short, the whole series would 
require to be carefully inspected, repaired, and rebound, — and 
lodged where they would be preserved from damp and rough 
jsage. 

Antiquities. — The principal object in the parish entitled to no- 
tice under the head of antiquities itf the ancient choir attiached to the 
parish church. It is 44 feet long by 27 feet wide, and is built in 
a more ornamental style than the body of the church. It contains 
within its area the statues of the Earl of Morton and his lady re« 



802 BOINBDRGHSHtllE. 

dining on a pedestal. It has long been unroofed, but it is worthy 
of careful preservation, as a venerable relic of the olden time. 

In November 1888, when some labourers were digging for sand 
in a park a few yards to the west of Newfarm, and about the 
same distance southward from the Musselburgh road, they came up- 
on a number of graves at not more than two feet below the surface 
of the ground. They were formed of rough stones loosely placed 
together in the shape of a coffin, and each contained the remains of 
a human body. There were many fragments of bones and skulls, 
that generally crumbled to dust on exposure to the air, — but the 
teeth were remarkably sound and entire. All the coffins were of 
the ordinary size for full grown persons, and had the feet turned 
to the east. Upwards of 50 were discovered; and as the digging 
was not continued farther, there can be little doubt that many 
more rebain. The ground is right in the direction of the flight 
towards Dalkeith at the Battle of Pinkie in 1547.* 

An elegant church of the early English Gothic style was built* 
in 1840, by his Grace the Duke of Buccleuch, on a commanding 
site at the head of the town. It is in the form of a cross. The ex* 
treme length from east to west is 90 feet ; the width across the 
body of the church is 50 feet ; the width of the transepts is 75 
feet ; the height from the floor to the ceiling is 35 feet ; and the 
height of the steeple and spire to the top of the vane, is 167 feet 
The stone is from Fife. It is seated for 950 persons ; it was in- 
tended for the accommodation of members of the Established 
Church ; but the unsettled state of the Church for some years, 
and recently the secession that has taken place in the Establish- 
ment, both among ministers and members, has rendered an addi- 
tional place of worship in this parish, connected with the Establish- 
ment, unnecessary,— -the dissentient members having erected for 
themselves a humbler edifice at no great distance from the spot. 

A new Episcopal chapel, of Gothic architecture, and highly or- 
namental, is at present building within the grounds of the Duke 
of Buccleuch, near the gate at Dalkeith. It consists of a chapel 
and chancel. The chapel is 70 feet by dO ; the chancel is 25 
feet by 1 7 ; so that, including the screen, the extreme length is 
105 feet. The stone is from Cowden quarry. It is to be seated 
for 250 persons. 

* A similar discovery was made at Edgebuckling Brae, near Pinkie, when tbe 
ne«r line of the {lost road was forming from the ea»t end of Musselburgh Links to 
Tranent. 



DALKEITH. 503 

There are two extensive corn-mills, and one woollen manufac- 
tory on the North Esk. One of these mills goes under the name 
of the Iron mill. It was formerly used for manufacturing iron 
bars, sheet iron, and all sorts of heavy smith work, — the ham- 
mers being raised by water power. The work was carried on for 
many years by Mr James Gray,* grandson of Mr Thomas Gray, 
surgeon, Dalkeith. It was continued by Mr David Hutchison, his 
nephew, till from various causes the trade began to decline. The 
mill was then converted into a corn-mill, and the business was af- 
terwards carried on by his son Mr David Hutchison, who died in 
1830. Mr James Gray was distinguished for his mechanical ta- 
lents, and his zeal for astronomical science. Vestiges of his ac- 
tive genius still remain in ^he locality where he resided. No 
fewer than eight dials are placed in different parts of the premises. 
And a large horizontal one stands in the centre of the garden, of 
three feet and a half diameter, made of sandstone, and of fine 
workmanship. His name is inscribed upon it ; but there is no 
date. The lines are now becoming faint, and would require to be 
renewed. There are also two pillars that formed the stand of a 
large telescope of his own construction, and on a stone placed be- 
tween them is carved out the latitude of the place. It is stated 
as being 55^ 52> 6^'. The latitude marked on the dial in the 
Duke of Buccleuch's grounds is 55"" 53'. The latitude of Dal- 
keith town may be regarded as very nearly expressed by either of 
these quantities. The longitude is 3^ 4! 30^' west ; and the High 
Street is 182 feet above the level of the sea. 

III. — Population. 
The earliest account of the population of Dalkeith, so far as we 

know, is that furnished to Dr Webster in 1755. The following 
table will exhibit the amount of population at the periods men- 
tioned. 



Dr Webster, in 1755, gives . 


• 


t • 


3110 


Sutistical Account of 1791, 


• • 


■ • 


4d66t +1256 


Census of 1801, . 


• 


• • 


3906 —460 


1811, 


■ • 


« 


4709 +803 




Males. 


Females. 




1821, . 


2408 


2761 


5169 +460 


1831, 


. 2691 


2895 


5586 +417 


1841, . 


2808 


3022 


5880 +244 



The following very accurate census of the parish was made in 
September 1839, expressly for this Statistical Account. 

* He died in 1761. 

f We are much inclined to suspect that this number is above the truth. 



504 



EDINBURGHSHtfiE. 



1. Number of soul* io the pBriah, 

2. Males, . . . 
8l Females, 

4. Births rince August 1838, 

5, Deaths since August 1898, 
0, Married since Do. 

7. Unmarried upwards of 50, 

8. Unmarried women upwards of 45, 

9. Insane, 

0. Fatuous, , 

1. Blind, 

2. Deaf, . 

3. Deaf and Dumb, 

4. Between 6 and 15 that cannot read, 

5. Number attending school, 

6. Upwards of 15 that cannot read, 

7. Souls under 15 years of age 

8. between 15 and 30, 

9. 20 and 50, 
^ 50 and 70, 
21. upwards of 70, 



2863 




2980 




• 


a08 


• 


108 




47 




115 




951 


• 


4 




30 


• 


9 




2 


• 


5 




noi 


« 


846 




59 


2082 




1676 




1278 




686 




130 





22. Persons belonging to the Established Church, 
•3, ^ — *^ " ' — ■" 

24. 



25. 

26. 
27. 
28. 
29. 
30. 
31. 
32. 



3092 
first Secession Congregation, • 897 

second Secession Congregation, 179 

in Dalkeith parish attending United Secession Churches not in Dal- 
keith, . . . - .42 
belonging to Relief Cbnrefa, . . . 875 
Independents, . . .178 
Methodists, ... 105 
Baptists, . , . . 9 
Roman Catholics, ... 98 
Episcopalians, ... 94 
Cameronians, * . • 19 
Greek Church, .... 1 



B^ a census taken in 1 836, which gave a population of 5429, 
and 1260 families, the number of souls is 13 for three families, or 
at the rate of 4^. 

The cause which has chiefly affected the amount of the popu- 
lation for several years past is the state of employment* 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — The parish contains about 2119 acres, of which 
1253 are in a regular state of cultivation under the plough; 360 
in rich old pasture in the immediate vicinity of the town, and in 
that part of Dalkeith park connected with the parish ; 403 under 
wood; and 103 occupied as nurseries, orchards, and mail gar- 
dens. There is no waste or unproductive land in the parish ; any 
thing originally of that nature on the banks of the Esk, and other 
rivulets, being tastefully, ornamentally, and profitably laid out in 
gardens and thriving plantations. 

Rent of Land, — The land under tillage varies, according to 



OALKBITB. 605 

its quality and situation, from L.1, fOs. to L.4) ayeraging L.2, 
4s« per imperial acre ; that of old rich pasture, at L.4 ; while that of 
nurseries, gardens, and orchards may be set down at L, 7 to 
L.10. 

Baw Produce, — The average amount of raw produce of Dal- 
keith parish may be estimated as under. 

Wheat, L.2187 10 

Barley, . . . 1125 

Oats, . 1650 

Beans, . 408 

Potatoes, 1440 

Turnips, . . 1080 . 

Hay, . . 1125 

Pasture, , . . 875 

Wood, . . 1007 10 

Permanent pasture, 1440 

Gardens and nurseries, . 2060 



The value of the minerals cannot at present be accurately de« 
termined. 

Waget. — Farm- servants or binds, married, are engaged by the 
year ; their usual allowance per annum being L. 16 in money ; 65 
stones of oatmeal ; 4 or 6 bushels of pease or barley ; 4 bolls or 
16 cwt of potatoes, with a free house and garden, — in all equal 
to^lOs. per week. They have no lost or broken time; are a con* 
tented and sober set of men, who, without meddling with affairs of 
State, mind the bringing up of their families, and their own 
business. Their children, when above twelve years of age, are 
generally employed upon the farm, and are allowed, according 
to their years, from 7d. to 9d. per day, — the latter sum of 9d. 
being the customary allowance for a full-grown woman at out- 
door work. In harvest their wages are higher, the lowest rate then 
being Is. per day, with victuals. Labouring men are engaged 
by the week, and receive from 9s. to 12s. Masons, millwrights, 
carpenters, plumbers, &c. charge from 3s. to 3s. 6d. per day. 

Live-stock. — Of the few cattle reared in the parish, the Tees* 
water or short^hom is the common kind ; but the farmers derive 
their chief supply, generally of the Highland breed, from the 
Edinburgh markets. The keep of a bullock of 40 imperial stones 
on full feeding may be estimated at L.7 per annum, and the graa* 
ing of a cow for the season at L.6. 

There are almost no sheep bred, the farmers supplying them- 
selves with ewes in lamb from the neighbouring spring markets* 



S06 EDINBUROHSHIBE. 

and they are generally fattened and sold off before winter. Great 
attention has of late years been paid to the breed of cattle in 
Dalkeith Park. His Grace's stock of short-horns, as well as of 
Leicester sheep, are now of great excellence, and may bear a com- 
parison with that of any of the most celebrated breeders in the 
kingdom. 

The general character of the soil may be described as clayey, the 
subsoil rather close and retentive, interspersed or intersected, how- 
ever, by thin seams of sand or gravel, while here and there through- 
out the parish several fields of a light channelly, sandy nature are 
to be found. Since the introduction of tile and furrow-draining, 
a very marked improvement has taken place in the character and 
appearance of the soil; while every encouragement has been af- 
forded by the Noble proprietor, who has lately erected an ex- 
tensive manufactory of the kind on his property, and by the 
liberal, and well-devised arrangements of His Grace, these are 
furnished to his tenantry free of cost, the whole expenses attend- 
ant upon the process being also defrayed by the proprietor ; while 
the tenant drives the materials, and pays interest for the outlay 
at the rate of five per cent per annum. We would like to see 
this system much more in fashion, few farmers of common ca- 
pital being able or willing to engage in such an expensive and per- 
manent operation, and one which ultimately tends so much to the 
benefit of the proprietor, as well as to the general good of the 
community. The cost of draining every furrow 16 feet apart, in 
a proper and sufficient manner, may be estimated at L. 6, 10s. 
,per imperial acre. The mode of cropping customary in the parish 
is the following: — On the lighter or more pliable soil, potatoes, 
wheat, grass, and oats, being the four course system, varied occa- 
sionally by turnips and barley ; on the more stubborn and reten- 
tive soils the six course rotation prevails, viz. open fallow, wheat, 
grass, oats, beans, and wheat. In proportion as the draining sys- 
tem, — the groundwork of all improvement in farming, has increas- 
ed, that of plain fallowing has decreased; and we could point out 
a number of fields in the parish, wbich« a few years ago, in their 
undraiued state, were to be seen every fourth season pining un- 
der this profitless system, now in their turn bearing ^^ or rejoicing 
under" luxuriant crops of potatoes — or, of Swedish turnips, with 
a double return of wheat and other crops during the whole rota- 
tion. To such an extent, indeed, has this improved system been 



DALKEITH. 507 

adopted here, that, in the present season, there is not an acre of 
plain fallow in the parish. 

The leases on the Dalkeith property are of fourteen years' du- 
ration. This may be said to be too short a term ; but as we have 
remarked, that the most expensive operation, that of draining, is 
originally performed at the cost of the landlord, and as few or no 
changes take place, little if any inconvenience can be said to be 
felt 

The whole parish is in a high state of cultivation. The prac- 
tice of grazing for one or two years, ^' in place of taking hay,'' is 
coming more into repute, farmers finding it advantageous now and 
then to rest and recruit their overcropped lands. The farm- 
houses and offices are of the best description ; the fences, chiefly 
beautiful, close, well-kept thorn-hedges, are excellent; while the 
roads throughout the parish are kept in the highest state of repair. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
7Wn.— The town of Dalkeith stands on an elevated peninsula 
between the North and South Esk. It lies in the direction of 
north-east and south-west. The principal street extends from 
the Duke's gate, at the east end of the town, to the railway 
depot, a distance of two*thirds of a mile ; its average breadth 
from the Duke's gate to the centre of the town westward is 
about eighty-five feet, and in this place chiefly the market 
is held* The remainder of the High Street has a breadth of 
only about one-third of that already mentioned. Parallel to the 
-High Street to the south is the back street, which is but partially 
•occupied with houses* It is a continuation of the Musselburgh 
road, and passes through the town on the way to the village of 
Newbattle. The town is intersected across in three places by 
the main road from Edinburgh. This road diverges into two 
branches at the toll-bar, near Bridge End. The principal branch, 
which lies farthest east, enters the High Street, and passes through 
the centre of the town to New-mills ; the second branch speedily 
diverges again into two, one of which is narrow, and forms what 
is called the North and West Wynd ; the other is broad, and 
passes through Henry's Row, now called Buccleuch Street ; they 
unite again on the south of the town. The space between the 
principal streets is occupied by a great number of densely-peopled 
closes and lanes. The town is upon the whole well built ; many 
of the houses, especially in the High Street, are of recent con- 



508 EDINBUR0B8HIRE. 

structioDy and exhibit a favourable specimen of the comfori and 
elegance of modern architecture. 

Dalkeith has been a markel*town from time immemoriaU 
Previously to 1681 the market was held on the Sundays, but it 
was then, by Act of Parliament,* changed, and ordained to be held 
on the Thursdays in all time coming. It is a stock market, and 
the greatest market for oats in the kingdom. Carts laden with 
grain from the counties of Mid-Lothian, East-Lothian, Berwick, 
Roxbuiigh, Selkirk, and Peebles, arrive here on the morning of 
the market day, or in the course of the forenoon, and are densely 
ranged along the sides of the High Street, frequently throughout 
its whole extent, to the amount of many hundreds.! The general 
grain market is announced at twelve o'clock, and the wheat mar- 
ket at half-past twelve, by the ringing of the church bell. Busi* 
ness to a vast amount is transacted in an incredibly short space of 
time, and all for ready money. So admirably, indeed, is the whole 
conducted, that the delivery of grain and the return of money 
are over in not more than two hours, with scarcely one instance 
of &ilure or non-payment on record. During the whole day the 
town presents the most animated appearance ; the shops are full ; 
every person is eager and busy ; and the carts return home fur- 
nished with supplies for a large extent of country. Grain that 
remains unsold is not carried back, but lodged in ample granaries 
till next market day. A market is also held on Mondays for 
meal, flour, and pot^barley, in which business is done to a great 
extent ; and there is also a cattle market on the Tuesdays at' cer« 
tain seasons of the year. The amount of stock brought to Dal- 
keith market for the year ending July 31, 1844 is as follows: 

Bag*. 
Oatmeal, . , 6,028 

Barley lueal, . 1,014 

Peaae meal, • 6ft 

Floor, . • 7d 

Potbarlej, . S6i 

Total, 8,2CS 
Bags of 880 lbs. ImperiaL 

The progressive increase of bank agencies in Dalkeith may be 
regarded as a correct exponent of the increase of its business. A 
I branch of the Leith Bank was established here in 1808, before 

which time there was no stationary bank agency in Dalkeith. It 

I * Aeto of Soott. Pari Vol. iiL p 238. This act was repeated and ratified in 1^7. 

•f- The number of carts on AiU market days at this season (November) may be 
timated as ranging from 800 to 1000. 



Quartets. 
Wheat, • 18,156 

OaU, . . 43,094 

Barley, . . 17«8964 

Pease and beans, . 2,404| 



Total, 81,649 



DALKEITH. 500 

ceased through failure in 184*2. The Commercial Bank esta* 
blished an agency in 1810; the National Bank in 1825; the 
Royal Bank in 1836; the Edinbui]^h and Leith Bank (now Edin- 
burgh and Glasgow), and the Savings Bank in 1839. All these 
still continue. 

Few towns are better supplied with bread, butcher-meat, gro* 
ceries, and garden produce. We have an extensive iron foundry, 
a gas work, a brewery, several curriers and tanners, builders, car- 
penters, and cabinet-makers in good employment ; manufacturers 
of felt and beaver hats, straw-hats, and woollen stutb : besides ex- 
tensive dealers in meal, flour, and barley, tobacco, saddlery, dra- 
pery, shoes, hard*ware, and earthen-ware ; in short, almost every 
article that the present improved condition of society requires 
may be obtained here in abundance, and of the mosi approved de- 
scription. The town is well paved and lighted, and kept exceed- 
ingly clean, especially in the leading streets. The burdens are 
moderate. Gas of a very pure quality is furnished at 7s. per 1000 
feet ; — ^water, which is good and generally abundant, at 1 Os. 6d. 
per annum ;— the assessment for the poor is Is. per pound of 
bouse«rent; — a night watch has been kept up for some time, 
chiefly by voluntary subscription ; — and, on the whole, it may be 
safely affirmed that few towns are more cheaply governed, or hold 
out greater inducements for the permanent residence of respect- 
able families-*if houses could be obtained. 

Dalkeith is a burgh of barony, under His Grace the Duke of 
Buccleuch. In the time of Regent Morton, the barony and re- 
gality of Dalkeith possessed jurisdiction over about fifteen baro- 
nies, besides many other lands and possessions, in more than 
twelve counties of Scotland.* Where the records of this baronial 
court are now deposited, we do not know ; — but they would 
doubtless contain much interesting information in regard to Dal- 
keith. On the abolition of heritable jurisdictions, in 1747, the 
present system of administration was introduced. The power of 
the baron-bailie was restricted to minor cases, — while cases of im- 
portance are heard and decided by the justices of the peace and 
the sheriff of the county, whose courts are held here at stated pe- 
riods. A statute, to be in force for twenty-one years, was passed 
in 1759, and has since been repeatedly renewed, ordaining the 
appointment of twelve trustees, of whom the baron-baiiie is al- 
ways one, — who shall have the power of supplying the town with 

* Acu of Soott. Pari. Vol ii. anno 1567. 



5 lO EDINBURQHSUIRE. 

water, — and of paving, cleaning, and lightiog the streets. The 
revenue from which these expenses are defrayed* arises from the 
water*duty, — ^the sale of the manure of the town,— ^tbe impost 09 
ale, beer, and porter, brewed or vended in the town and parish, — 
the rent of the brick-field and washing-green, &c., — ^andabenefioiai 
lease of the &ir and market customs, for which they are indebted 
to the liberality of His Graoe the Duke.of Buccleuch ; — tlie annual 
amount of which revenue may average about L. 6(M). The trus- 
tees are appointed for life, and vacancies, by death or resignation, 
are filled up by the votes of the remaining members. The oflSce 
has always been accounted honourable, — and its duties have been 
discharged with fidelity and judgment, and much to the satisfac- 
tion of the inhabitants. 

There are few other matters of interest connected with Didkeith. 
Cromwell's orderly house, situate in Chapelwell Close, is still 
shown ; — Major's knowe, or the open space of ground on the east 
of the church-yard, is said to have been for some time the resi- 
dence of the infamous Major Weir ;— Spalding* and Christian 
Wilsonef are famous in the annals of superstition and witchcraft; — 
Old Geordie Syme, the piper, and Beety Dick, the town-crier, of 
more recent times, are immortalized in the portraits of John 
Kay ;j: — and biUling Kate^ the last lingering remnant of a super- 
stitious age, is said even still to be occasionally heard at the dead 
of the night plying her mysterious labours. 

The population of Dalkeith town is about 4650; Lugton and 
Bridgend have about 230 souls ; and Whitehill, in 1839, nearly 
101. It is now nearly 800, — almost entirely colliers. 

There is a posUoffice in the town, from which there is a de- 

• He was banged for murder at Dalkeith in 16S8. His stofy is tdd at length 

by Professor Sinclair in bis ** Satan's Invisible World Displayed.** — Edinburgh, 
1814, page 126-8. 

t Pitcairn*s Criminal Trials, Vol. iii. page 194^, also 601. Notice is taken of 
several other persons connected with Dalkeith dilated of witchcraft, page 600-2. 

Prom a manuscript belonging to a gentleman of this town, we learn that, in the 
year 1648-9, no fiswer than six persons were executed here;— ^ne man for murder, 
— ^nd one man and four women for witchcraft Being condemned by the assise 
court, they were ** led to tbe place of execution, wirreit at ane stake, and brvnt to 
asobes.** So numerous, Indead, were oases of that kind that, in 1661, Sir George 
Mackenzie, justice-depute, and his colleagues were, in Parliament, <* ordained to re* 
pair, once in the week at least, to Musselburgh and Dalkeith, and to try and judge 
such persons as are thcr or therabouts dilate of witchcraft.** Sir George himself 
declares that ** the minister of Dalkeith (Calderwood) having reproved a witch, im- 
mediately distracted.** In addition to tbe above cases, we are not aware of any per- 
son having been executed here, witli the exception of William Thomson, labourer, 
who, on tbe 1st March 1827, was hanged in fix>nt of the gaol for assault and high- 
way robbery. 

t Kay'b Original Portraits, No. 48 and Na 121. 

4 



DALKEITH. 511 

spatch and delivery of letters twice a-day. — The whole amount 
of turnpike road in the parish cannot be less thap about eight 
miles. — Public carriages set out from Dalkeith,* or pass through it 
almost every hour of the day. — The fields and gardens are en- 
closed with fences of the best description. 

Bridffes.'^ln the year 1594, there were two bridges at Dal- 
keith, — one over the North Esk, and the other over the South 
Esk. At that date these bridges were old and in a state of de- 
cay, and were repaired by supplies provided by an act of Parlia- 
ment They were greatly damaged and nearly undermined by 
the extraordinary floods of September IGdO,-}* but were again re- 
paired by Parliamentary grant in 1663 ; — and a custom was impos- 
ed on passengers to defray the expense. There seems to have 
been no other bridge at that time over these rivers in the neigh- 
bourhood of Dalkeith ; — and attempts were made to avoid the 
custom by passing at the ford over the South Esk, leading to- 
wards the west of Dalkeith, — and the ford at Elginhaugh. An 
act of Parliament, however, was obtained in 1670 to levy the cus- 
toms also at these fords. Having again received great damage 
from the ice and swelling of the water in the two great storms of 
the winter of 1681, they were repaired anew by act of Parlia- 
ment, in 1685.^ A new bridge was built over the North Esk at 
Lugton in 1765, a few yards above the site of the old one ; it was 
widened and the approaches improved in 1816. In 1756 a bridge 
was built over the South Esk at Newmills : it was widened and re- 
paired in 1812 : three new arches were thrown over it, one-half 
of the breadth, in 1837, and the other in 1839. In 1797 a bridge 

* The first stage coach from Edinburgh to Dalkeith was attempted Id 1783, by 
Dunn, the hotel keeper in Prince^ Street.-— Arnott^ History of Edinbuigh. Edin- 
burgh, 1816, page 609. 

f This remarkable inundation has been recorded, and with great simplicity ac- 
counted for by Nicoll :<— ** No sooner was the viixd. the pynt bq^n to be exactit, 
quhilk was upone the Ist of September 1659, to the great hurt of the subjectis, bot 
immediatelie thaireflir the Lord did manifest his anger in sending doun ane unbard 
and unkoth storme of wind and weit, be the space of thrie dayia and thrie nychCes, 
▼is. the 2d, Sd, 4th, and 5th dayis of September, quhairby not only sindrie housis 
in and upon the Water of Leilh^ with eleven myles belonging to Edinbro, and five 
belonging to Heriote^ Hospital, with their damncs, water-gaugis, tymber and 
stone worlds, the haill quheillis of their myles, tymbet graith, and baill other workis 
were destroyed, and violentlie taken away, be these great diludges of watteris : bot 
lykewyse the haiU tounes about sufferit the lyke dampna^ sick as Leith and Leith 
Harborie, Mussilburgh, Fischerraw, Hadingtoun, Dalkeith, Leswaide, to the great 
admiration of many, evin of such persones as are of greatest age.'^-^Niooll% Diary, 
p. 249^-50. 

' X Acts of Scott. Pari, Vol. iv. 85, anno 1594; Vol vil 479, anno 1663; Vol. 
viii, 19-20, anno 1670; Vol. viii. d67, anno 1681 ; Vol. viii. 497, anno 1685. 



512 E01NBUB0H8H1RB. 

was built at Elginhaugh, and repaired in 1828 ; — and, with the 
exception of the Cowbridge on the Musselburgh road, which is 
undoubtedly the bridge of 1594, every bridge in the parbh is at 
present in excellent condition. 

Railways. — Few undertakings have contributed more to the 
commerce, convenience, and health of the surrounding neighbour^ 
hood, than the Edinburgh and Dalkeith Railway. The company 
was incorporated by act of Parliament in 1826; — the work was 
begun in 1827 ; — and the main Ime between Edinburgh and Dal* 
housie, a distance of about eight miles, and the Fisherrow braoch, 
about one mile, were opened in 1831. The expense was about 
L. 1 80,000. This railway is worked by horses, and was iptended 
for the conveyance of coal and other minerals, fetrm-produce, ma* 
nure, &c Passengers were not thought of in the original esti- 
mate, though they have became the chief source of profit. The 
average amount of tonnage conveyed by this railway is about 
120,000 per annum ; and the passengers amount to about 300,000. 
The Leith branch, which is a separate concern, and belongs to a 
different set of subscribers, was opened in 1835. The Dalkeith 
branch, which is the exclusive property of His Grace the Duke of 
Buccleuch, and was intended solely for the benefit of that town, 
was opened in the end of 1638. However desirable, it seemed, 
for some time, impracticable to extend this branch to His Grace^s 
coal-fields, in the neighbourhood of Cowden. But these obstacles 
were soon surmounted ; — the intervening properties were purchas- 
ed, and a magnificent viaduct has been erected at great expense 
over the vale of the South Esk. This bridge consists of six 
arches ; — ^the two arches at the extremities of the bridge are each 
of 110 feet span ; — and the four intermediate arches are each of 
1^0 feet span. The arches are built of the best Dantxick timber, 
and rest upon stone piers of hewn ashlar. The height, from 
the ordinary water-mark to the road-way, is 78 feet ;— 4he whole 
length is 830 feet ; — and the entire width of road-way between 
the railings is 14 feet The whole structure is of the most taste- 
ful architecture, and imparts a highly picturesque character to the 
surrounding scenery. 

EceiesiasHeal State. — The parish church of Dalkeith stands in 
the middle of the town, on the north side of the High Street, and 
is quite convenient for every part of the parish, from the remotest 
point of which it is not farther distant than about three miles. It 

3 



DALKEITH. 51» 

is an old Gothic buildiog dedicated to St Nicholas,* and seems 
to have undergone frequent alterations. The present place of 
worship is 78 feet long by 53 wide; it is divided by two rows of 
pillars connected by Gothic arches supporting the roof ; the height 
of the centre part of the church is 35 feet, and of the side divi- 
sions 24 feet. The height of the steeple is 85 feet. 

Though it is highly probable that a place of worship existed in Dal- 
keith at a very early period, we have not been able, by documentary 
evidence, to ascertain the date of any such erection prior to the time 
of Sir James Douglas, in 1368.t At that date a grant of land was 
made for the support of a chaplain in the chapel of Dalkeith. Vari- 
ous other grants were subsequently given.f In a charter granted in 
1384, for the foundation of a chapel in the Castle of Dalkeith, 
it is provided that, in the event of the castle being destroyed, 
Divine service shall be performed in the Chapel of St Nicholas of 
Dalkeith, till the castle be rebuilt. In 1406, James Douglas hav- 
ing built and renewed the chapel of St Nicholas in Dalkeith, ^'dotes 
it" with sufficient salaries for six chaplains. This chapel was formed 
into a collegiate church by James, third Earl of Morton, in the 
reign of James V. (151 3-42) §. 

The parsonage of Dalkeith formed a part of the deanery of 
Restalrig, and was within the diocese of St Andrews. The dis- 
solution of this deanery took place in the year 1 592, and " Mr 
George Ramsay, the dean for the time being, was enjoined to 
pay that part of the parsonage of Dalkeith, which belonged to 
the deanery of Restalrig, to Mr Archibald Symson, minister of 
Dalkeith.ll And the said parsonage of Dalkeith was erected into a 
several and distinct parsonage, to remain with the said Mr Archi- 
bald and his successors, ministers of Dalkeith, in all time coming." 
By this statement we are probably to understand that Dalkeith was, 
at that time, constituted into a distinct parish, on the same footing 
as other parishes, and subject to the ordinary rules of the Church.^ 

* The coincidence between the name of the aaint and the name of Sir Nicholas 
de Graham, might warrant us to presume that this church existed in the time of 
the Grahams. 

f Freebairn^s MS., Ad. Lib. 

t The rent of the Provost ry of Dalkeith, as stated in the collection books for 
1652^, was L.26, ids. 4d., or xxvi. lib. xiijs. iiijd — Keith's History of the Affairs 
of the Church, &c., Appendix, p. 257. (Folio, 1734.) 

§ Spottuwood*s Religious Houses. 

ji Acts of Pari, of Scotland, vol. iii. p*. 551, act 23, anent the dissolution of Res- 
talrig. 

^ See infra, page 524. 

EDINBURGH. K k 



5l4 BOINBUROHSHIRE. 

It is first mentioned as the seat of a distinct presbytery in the 
year 1581.* 

In 1686, the minister having reported the church to be ruinous, 
the presbytery order it to be completely repaired, and made wind 
and water tight In 1762, the building of a steeple and spire for 
the church was resolved on ; and in 1767 the church was again 
ordered to be repaired.f The church is far from being comfort- 
able at present, and would require anew to be thoroughly repaired. 
There are two bells of good tone ; on one of which is the follow- 
ing inscription :— *' Decora domui tuae sanctitas, O Jehoya,dierum 
in longitudinem. John Milne & Son fecit. Edinburgh, 1768.'' 

Seats in the Church. — At what time fixed seats were first set up 
in the church, we have not been able to ascertain ; the practice 
must have been adopted, to a certain extent at least, soon after 
the Reformation ; at all events we find that it was common in the 
time of Cromwell, as he burned all the seats and pews to make 
room for his horses.} 

By a minute of the kirk-session, dated 31st July 1655, it was 
resolved that the church should be furnished with seats. ** The 
sam day it was concluded in session, that it was expedient for 
decoring of the kirk, that the same should be fitted up with 
handsome seats, and therefore that the minister should give notice 
that any of the heritors who had a purpose to make up a seat for 
himself and his family, that he or they should come to the ses- 
sion on any of the session days, betwixt and Martinmas next, and 
give in their desire concerning the seating thereof, and if they 
fail to do so, that the minister should certify to the said heritors, 
that the session would, after Martinmas next, dispose of the room 
in the kirk to such other of the inhabitants of the parish as should 
be content to set up handsome seats for themselves and their fa- 
milies therein, at the session's discretion, and that the intimation 
be made out of the pulpit the next Lord's day." 

It may be remarked that transfers of seats were not reckoned 
valid, unless reconfirmed by the session in favour of the parties to 
whom they were disposed. 

Besides the gallery appropriated to the Duke of Buccleuch, 
there are two tiers of galleries which belong to the different 
incorporations of the town, and seem to have been erected by 

• Ca1derwood*s History of the Kirk of Scotland, Vol. iii. page 522.^Wod. Soe. 
Rdin. 1843. 

+ Presbytery Records. 

X Balfour, Vol. iv. page 88. 



DALKEITH. 515 

them. The Bakers* Gallery bears date 1660; the Hammer- 
men's, 1665; the Tailors*, 1671; the Weavers', 1714; the 
Glovers', 1727; and the Colliers', 1733. A new gallery was 
erected in 1838 for the use of the colliers in the employment of 
His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch. 

There are of sittings in the parish church, exclusive of the 
Duke of Buccleuch's private gallery, 1050 ; — of these there are of 
private property, in part occupied by the individuals having right 
to them, and in part let, 920; minister's seat, 12; held by the 
schoolmaster, 30 ; elders' seat, 16 ; baptism seat, 7, total 65 ; com- 
mon loft set apart for the poor, 65. Besides the seats set apart 
for them in the common loft, the poor have at present access to 
the elders' seat, to fourteen sittings belonging to the schoolmaster, 
and to the baptism seat, making in all 102 sittings. 

A missionary was employed for some years by the Established 
Church for the benefit of the parish, but has been discontinued since 
1837. A town-missionary has been employed since 1842 by the 
first congregation of the United Associate Synod. There are at 
present six places of worship distinct from the Established Church. 
1« First congregation of the United Associate Synod had, in 1838*, 
445 communicants resident in this parish ; and in all about 600. 
^. Second ditto. 111; in all 200« 3. Relief Congregation, 380 ; 
in all 600. 4. Methodist Congregation, 26 ; in all 40. 5. In- 
dependent Congregation, 53 ; in all 73. 6. Free Church Con- 
gregation in 1844 has in all 484 communicants, of whom 400 are 
resident in this parish. 

The attendance of the various congregations at their respective 
places of worship is, upon the whole, regular and good. Previous- 
ly to the late secession, the number of communicants of the Esta- 
blished Church at each communion was, at an average, 700, very 
nearly all resident in the parish, — and the aggregate number might 
be about 850. 

Societies in the parish for religious purposes are supported by 
members of all denominations. The Bible Society raises annu- 
ally about L. 30 ; — missionary funds are now generally raised and 
expended congregationally ; — the Tract Society raises upwards 
of L.9. 

Churchyard. — The church is surrounded by a churchyard front- 
ing the High Street, of 60 yards in length, and averaging about the 

* The numbers of the commuDicanto here stated have been taken from the Report 
of the Religious Instruction Commission in 1888. Presbytery of Dalkeith. 



51^ EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

same in breadth, an addition having been apparently made to it on 
the north-west side. The privilege of a burying-ground is acquired 
by a grant from the kirk-session on payment of a donation to the 
poor. The area is crowded with graves, and the surface is con- 
siderably higher than either the level of the church floor or the 
street on the outside. There are do epitaphs of public interest. 
Most of the tombstones being of sandstone, the inscriptions of any 
antiquity are nearly illegible. The oldest tombstone in the 
churchyard is of limestone, and contains the following inscription : 
^^ Here lies ane worthie man callit Robert Portus, and his wyfe 
Euphao Wauchope, quha departit in anno 1609. Here lyes his 
son Robert Portus, and his spouse Jene, and his son, quha depar- 
tit in J* The monument of the Rev. John Veitch, of West- 

struther, mentioned in Monteith's Theatre of Mortality, is not now to 
be found. The monument of the Rev. William Mein on the north 
wall of the churchyard is nearly altogether illegible; and the 
monument of the Rev. William Calderwood on the south wall 
within the churchy and near the door, though perfectly entire and 
legible, is covered with a thick black crust, which would require 
to be removed. It is given in Monteith's Theatre of Mortality, 

and is as follows : — 

« 

Veritas premitur sed non opprimitur. 

Memorise Gulielmi Calderwood, pastoris Dalkethensis, Patris 
sui, qui obiit a. d. 1680, mensis vero Martii die 4to. Ac etiam 
memorise Margaritas Craig, filiae de Riccarton, suse matris, quae 
decessit anno Dom. mdclxxxii., mensis Septembris die SO. 
Necnon memoriae M. Ludovici Calderwood, sui fratris, caetero- 
rumque puerorum, qui hie cum patre et matre requiescunt :— -Hoc 
quicquid est monument! poni curavit Thomas Calderwood, filius 
primogenitus* 

In obitum D. Gulielmi Calderwood^ pastoris Dalkethensis, an- 
nos supra vicenos. 

Non te deflemus Cttio, vir xnogne, reeeptunif 
Ploramus nostram, nee sine jure, vicem ; 
i Dotibus eximiis patris, pastoris, amici, 

' Vix magis ornatum protulit uUa dies. 

Dum fluit Esca duplex, siWamque aniplectitur ulnif, 
Calderwode tibi fama perennis erit. 

Such is the language of the epitaph. But if no monument ex- 
ists of more durable material than that on which these last words 
have been inscribed, the prophecy they contain can scarcely ex- 
pect a fulfilment. 

The dark aisle on the north of the choir attached to the church 



DALKEITH. 



617 



is the cemetery belonging to His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch. 
It contains a great many lead coffins. In the course of this cen- 
tury the remains of His Grace Duke Henry, the Earl and Countess 
of Home, Lord Cartaret, &c., \\give been deposited in it. 

A new burying-ground on the west of the town was granted to 
the inhabitants in 1796, by His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch. It 
is now almost entirely occupied. 

Manse. — The present manse was built in 1802. It is a small 
but commodious house, situate near the Esk, on the left hand as 
we enter the town from the north. There is in front an orchard 
or small pleasure ground, and a garden stretching southwards to- 
wards the town. The glebe is in front of the manse, on the op- 
posite side of the Edinburgh road, and consists of very nearly 8 
imperial acres. It has long been let out as a nursery, and brings 
an annual rent of L.40. 

The stipend consists of L.75, 13s. 9d. Sterling money; meal, 
159 cwt, 2 quarters, 13^ pounds; barley, 92 quarters, 6 bushels, 
2 pecks, 1 gallon, 2 quarts, imperial weight and measure. There 
is also a sum of about L.1, 2s. per annum, collected in twopences 
and fourpences, under the name of vicarage teinds.* There is 
a further allowance of L.12 for communion elements. 
. Ministers of the Established Church, — Little more than a few 
scattered names are to be found connected with this parish church 
prior to the Presbytery record in 1582. 

A. D. 1545* — Archibald Boyd is recorded 2iS provost of the Col- 
ledge Kirk* 

1568-71. — Robert Wilsoun, minister, Dalkeith.^ Stipend 
vj^^^li. 

1576. — Maister George Ramsay, minister of Dalkeith. § 

1. Mr Andrew Symson is minister of Dalkeith at the commence* 
ment of the presbytery record, in 1582. His name occurs till the 
year 1 584, when there is a gap in the record. But at the year 1588^ 
when the minutes recommence, Mr Archibald Symson is mentioned 
in connection with Dalkeith. The probability is, that the Grst 
mentioned minister is the famous Andrew Symson, master of the 
school of Perth, and afterwards minister and master of the gram- 
mar-school of Dunbar. He demitted his office at Dunbar on the 
18th September 1582, and was succeeded there by Mr Alexander 

* The present value of Uie stipend, exclusive of manse and glebe, is L.dI6, 9s. 2d. 
Sterling, 
t Rowillane Papen, p. 84. 
4; Register of Ministers, &c. p. 6w Maitland Club, 1830. § Ibid, page 73. 



fil8 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Home, minister of Houndwood. We have not been able to ob- 
tain any direct documentary evidence of the fact of his transla- 
tion to Dalkeith ; but collateral circumstances render it h^hiy 
probable.* 

2. Mr Archibald Symson.-— The name of this distinguished mi* 
nister is £rst mentioned in the records of presbytery onder tfa« 
year 1588. He was the son of Andrew Symson, schooloiaster 
and minister of Dunbar, and Violet Adamson, sister to Patrick 
Adamson, Bishop of St Andrewsi. Of this family there were six 
sons, who, — with the exception of the eldest^ who died youDg»— -all 
became eminent preachers ; — and three sisters, who were all mar- 
ried to preachers. Under the tuition of a parent not less emineul 
for piety than for talents and learning, we may readily believe that 
this family enjoyed the highest advantages in regard to education* 
We find, accordingly, that Patrick, the second son, had attained, 
even when a youth, to an uncommon proficiency in classical stu« 
dies, which he was sent to England to perfect ; and we may easily 
suppose that Archibald was no less eminent. He informs us, that 
when a young man his verses attracted the notice of the famous 
Sir John Maitland, Chancellor of Scotland, who thenceforth be- 
came his patron ; — and that this same statesman, by whose influ- 
ence mainly the Act of 1592 was passed in favour of the Scottish 
Church, was also the person by whom the church of Dalkeith 
was first put into its present Presbyterian form; — and that in 
this transaction he himself was in some way or otheiL particularly 
concerned.f Archibald Symson was appointed ordinary mi- 
nister of Dalkeith in 1590,^ and appears to have disharged his 
ministerial functions with the greatest fidelity. After the decease 
of his former patron, be acquired the friendship of Chancellor 
Seton, Earl of Dunfermline, on whom he has pronounced an aflec- 
tionate and eloquent eulogium. It was at the earnest request of 
this nobleman that he entered on the composition of his *^ Hiero- 
glyphica Animalium,'' &c. which he meant to be an abridged 
practical view of the elaborate work of Pierius Valerianus on 

* Row*s HUtorie of the Kirk of Scotland, pa^^e 8, Wodrow Society, Edition IB42. 

^ His words are these : '* Dum vix excessissem vicesiinuin tertiuin atatia annum, 
niihi feliciter obligit Joannes Metellanus, Thirlstenae Regulus, Scotia^ CaneelUriii&, 
qui me in suam clientelani receperat, pauciilis tantum versibus invitatus, religion is 
pursB amantissimus, qui Eccletiam Dalkcthetitem primust idque meo nombte, in ptMicis 
regni comitiit ituiauravH. -^Dedication of his Hieroglyph. Volat. Edin. 1623. He 
probably here refers to the dissolution of the deanery of Restalrig, and the erection 
of the parsonage of Dalkeith, which took place in 1592. — Acts of Scot. Pari. Vol. iii. 
page 551. 

i Records of Presbytery. 



DALKEITH. 



519 



the same subject, — the writings of Pierius, which were com- 
piled from a profouod investigation of the sacred mysteries of the 
Egyptian priests, being a favourite study with the Chancellor, 
In his declining years, he was on intimate terms with Thomas, 
Earl of Melrose,* who also patronised his studies, and of whom he 
speaks in the most laudatory terms. He was the author of Phi- 
lomela Dalkethensis, — a congratulatory poem addressed to King 
James VI. on his visit to Dalkeith, in 1617, as has been already 
mentioned. Being a zealous supporter of the purity and simpli* 
city of the Presbyterian worship, he was banished to Aberdeen for 
$ix months, for his opposition to the innovations of King James, 
and his hostility to the Episcopal ceremonies. He died at Dal- 
keith in December 16*28. 

Deeply imbued with the love of revealed truth, his senti- 
ments were highly orthodox, and his piety fervent and practical. 
Repossessed considerable genius; his imagination was rich and 
lively; his learning extensive and varied; and his style, both £ng* 
lish and Latin, is fluent, and not uufrequently elegant, though 
occasionally disfigured by a coarseness of ideas not unusual at that 
period. But the value of his writings is greatly reduced by his 
excessive fondness for allegorical exposition, — an unfortunate ten* 
dency, which is at all times unfavourable to the interests of truth, 
but especially so in an age when irreligion and scepticism would 
consider the refutation of such puerilities as the overthrow of reli-* 
gion itself.f 

* This title, derived from the Abbey of Melrose, wm suppressed in 1627, and the 
title of Earl of Haddington substituted in its place.— VVood's Peerage, Vol. i. 678. 
t He is the author of the following works, ? iz :— 

1. Christ's seven words upon the Cross. 

2. Heptameron, The seven Oaycsr— That is. Meditations and Prayers upon tht 
work of the Lord*s creation. Together with other certaine prayers and meditations, 
most comfortable for all estates, &c. By Bl. A. Symson, Minister at Didkeith. Sainct 
Andi-eus. Printed by Edward Raban, Printer to the Universitie. 1621. 

3. Samson's seaven lockes of Haire ; AUegorically expounded and compared to the 
seaven spirituall vertues, whereby we are able to overcome our splrituall Philistines. 
By M. A. Symson, Minister of the Euangell at Dalkeith. Printed at Sainct Andrews, 
by Edward Raban, Printer to the (Jniversitie. 1621. 

4. A sacred Septenarie, or a Godly and Fruitful Exposition on the seaven Psalms of 
repentance. Serving especially for the direction and comfort of all such who are either 
troubled in mind, diseased in bod^, or persecuted by the wicked. By Mr A. Symson, 
Pastor of the Church at Dalkeith m Scotland. London, 1623. 

6. Hieroglyphica Animalium Terrestrium, Volatilium, Natatilium, Reptiliam, In- 
sectoium, Vegetivorum, Metallorum, lapidum, &&,— ^uae in Scripturis tacris inveni- 
untur, et plarimorum alioium, cum eorum intcrpretaiiombus, ob Theologiae studiosos. 
Opus conteztum per Archibaldum Simsonura, Dalkethensis Ecclesiae Pastorem.-* 
Edinburgi, Excudebat Thomas Finlason, Augustissimae Regiae Majest. Typographus, 
1622, cum Privilegiis.— This first part contoins only the *•' Hieroglyphica Terrestrium.** 
The second part, containing ^^ Hieroglyphica Volatilium,*' and the third part, contain, 
ipg *' Hieroglyphica Natatilium,'* were printed at Edinburgh in 1623. 



52a • EDINBORQHSHIRE. 

3. Mr Patrick Turnet became minister of Dalkeith io Febru- 
ary 1G29. He was previously minister of Borthwtck; he seems 
to have been pious, faithful, and learned. He was the author of 
three small Latin poems preBxed to Sympson's ** Hieroglyphica," 
&C. He died in August 1634. 

4. Mr Hugh Campbell became minister of Dalkeith in Febru- 
ary 1635. At a visitation of the parish by the presbytery in 
1647, he was approved in life and doctrine ; but he was deposed 
in 1659, having been libelled and found guilty of adultery. 

5. Mr William Calderwood was admitted minister of Dalkeith 
on the 22d September 1659. He conformed to Episcopacy. He 
died on the 4th March 1680. There is a monument erected to 
his memory within the church, at the west end of the south walL 

6. Mr James Lundie became minister of Dalkeith on the 24th 
November 1680. He had been previously settled in Edinburgh, 
where he exercised his ministry for eighteen years with the great- 
est fidelity. Having refused with many of the brethren of the 
presbytery to take the test required by the recent Act of Parlia- 
ment, he relinquished his charge at Dalkeith in November 1681. 
In 1687, he received a unanimous call to the church at North 
Leith, where he officiated till his death. He died on the 31st of 
March 1696, in the fifty-sixth year of his age. 

7. Mr Alexander Heriot was admitted minister of Dalkeith on 
the llth June 1683. He had been formerly settled at Kirkcaldy. 
He was deposed, in December 1690, on a charge of immorality^ 



It 18 stated by Dr M'Crie, '* that the part which relates to reptiles and insects 
published in 1624, under the name of * Torous secundus ;* but we have not succeeded 
in finding a copy of it.**— Life of Andrew MeWiUe, Vol. it page 013-4. Edinburgh, 
1819. 

There is also in manuscript by the same author, Id, a. '' Life of Patrick Symson* 
Minister of Stirling,** coo tuned in the Wodrow MS., Vol. xviii., in the Advocmtes* 
Library. 

2d, Archibaldi Sympsoni, Historia Ecdesiastica Scottorum, MS. Folio. 

Qdj Annales Ecclesiae Scoticanae a tempore Reformationis ad obitum Jacobi 6ti 
Begis. Auctore Archibaldo Symptono* Pastore Dalkethensi. The latter two we have 
not seen. Their titles are taken from page 122 Of Sibbald*8 Repertory of Manuscripts 
in the Advocates* Library. 

Also <' a Chronicle of Scotland/* in Latine, not yet printed, is mentioned as a pro- 
dttction of Archibald Sympson*8 in the dedication of a work by his brother, Mr Alex« 
ander Symson, minister at Merton. London, 1644. 

In Wodrow*s Correspondence, Vol. ii. page 314,(1843,) there is the following 
ttatement respecting this manuscript,** And Arch. Symson, minister at Dalkeith, his 
'Annales Ecclesis Scotticans,* writ in a noble style of Latin, about thirty sheet. It 
reaches from the Reformation to King James* death.** 

* In November 1680, Mr James Luqdie, one of the principal ministers of Edin* 
burgh, removed himself to Dallceith, whither he had got a call ; which I mark as ex- 
traordinary for to leive a better stipend for to goe to a much leaner,— their ware sun- 
drie conjectures about it. Some thought the Bischop was displeased with the free- 
domes he sundrie tymes used. — Lord Fountainhall*s Historicidl Observes, &c. 4to« 
£din. 1840. Bann. Ed. page 12. 



DALKElT(f« 521 

He seems to have afterwards settled in Musselburgh, He pub- 
lished in 1691 a quarto pamphlet in exculpation of himself.* 

8. William Mein, D.D., was admitted minister of Dalkeith on 
the 7th of July 1691. He was formerly minister of Lochnitton 
in Kirkcudbrightshire. He died in 1699. His monument in the 
north-west wall of the churchyard is much defaced, and the in- 
scription is mostly illegible. 

9* Mr James Elphinstone was admitted minister of Dalkeith 
on the 19th November 1700. He was formerly minister of 
Strathblane. He died on the 1st February 1709. (1710.) 

10. Mr David Hutchison, probationer, was ordained minister 
of Dalkeith on the 7th April 1710. He died in February 1746. 

11. Mr David Plenderleath was admitted minister of Dalkeith 
on the 7th October 1746. He was formerly minister of Ormi- 
ston. On the 20th December 1764, he was translated to the 
Tolbooth Church of Edinburgh, (where he was colleague to the 
Rev. Dr Alexander Webster,) and died in 1779.-f- 

12. Mr Harry Grieve was admitted minister of Dalkeith on the 
7th of June 1765. He was, in 1762, minister of Twyneholm, 
then of Eaglesham, in the presbytery of Glasgow. He was trans- 
lated to New Grey friars Church, Edinburgh, in 1789. He was 
admitted minister of the Old Church on the 16th Juqo 1791, as 
colleague to Dr M^Knight, and successor to Dr Robert Henry, 
the historian. He died on the 10th February ]8i0, in the seven- 
tyrfourth year of his age^ and was buried in the churchyard of 
Dalkeith. 

13. Mr William Scott was admitted minister of Dalkeith on 
the 17th February 1790. He was formerly minister of Gretna 
in the Presbytery of Annan. He died on the 10th July 1881. 

14. Mr James Monteith was ordained minister of Dalkeith on 
the 13th April 1832. He demitted his charge in May 1843. 

15. Mr Joseph Rogers Duncan was ordained assistant and suc- 
cessor to the Rev. James Monteith on 4th June 1841. He was 
translated to the parish of Torthorwald on 5th October 1843. 

16. Mr Norman M^Leod, formerly minister of Loudon, was 
admitted minister of Dalkeith on the 15th December 1843. 

Ecclesiastical Affairs. — a. d. 1659.»-The only settlement in this 
parish that created more than ordinary trouble, was that which arose 

* See the pamphlets of that period for the case of non-conforming Episcopal mi- 
uisters. 

t For several particulars in r^rd to bis parentage, &c. see Fraser^s Life of Ralph 
Enkine, pp. 126.128, 12mo, If 



522 EDlNBURGHSHfHE# 

io the appointment of a successor to Hugh Campbell, a. p. 1669. 
That minister having been deposed for adultery^ a commissioDer 
was appointed by Mary, Countess of Buccleuch, and her factors, to 
secure the benefice for Mr John Arthur, her Ladyship's chaplain. 
The proceedings which followed resulted in the synod and pres- 
bytery giving admission and ordination to Mr William Calder- 
wood, contrary to the wish of the Countess. 

The following extracts from the presbytery records will be con- 
sidered interesting, as showing the effect produced in the presby- 
tery of Dalkeith by the enforcement of the test in the memorable 
year of 1681. 

'< November 15th 1681. This day met.at Dalkeith Mr Lun- 
die, moderator, Mr Douglas, Mr Collier, Mr Spottiswood, Mr 
Hamilton, Mr M'Math, Mr French, Mr Miller, Mr Blane, Mr 
Bannerman, Mr Moodie ; none absent except Mr Purves. 

*^ There was no exercise, in regard our meeting was not to be till 
Thursday the 17tb, as was appointed ; but the moderator acquaint- 
ed us by a line, that he had received a letter from our ordinary, the 
Bishop of Edinburgh, (John Paterson,) on a Friday's night late, 
which he produced, wherein we were all required to be in Edin- 
burgh about 10 of clock in the forenoon, to give obedience to the 
law, by taking the test according to the 62d Act of this current 
Parliament. This letter from the Lord Bishop being read, to- 
gether with the Act of Council explaining the test, the brethren 
resolved to meet at Edinburgh, on Thursday mornings and go all 
together to wait on the bishop. 

^' Anno 1682. March 30. There was no meeting since 15th 
November 1681, in regard of the paucity of our number^ the most 
part of the brethren within the bounds of this presbytery have de- 
serted their charges by not giving obedience to the Act of Parlia- 
ment, requiring all ministers of the gospel, &c to take the test 
Such as did obey the law, and remain in their charges, met this 
day, viz. Mr M'Math, minister^ Lasswade; Mr Arthur Miller, 
do. Musselburgh ; Mr Alexander Wood, do. Cockpen ,* Mr Ro- 
bert Bannerman, do. Newton ; Mr Robert Arbuthnot, now mini- 
ster at Crichton ; absent, Mr George Purves, minister^ Glencross, 
and no excuse." 

The troublous reign of Charles II. seems to have pressed light- 
ly upon the town of Dalkeith, since, with the exception of the 
worthy minister mentioned above, and two or three obscure names 



DALKEITH. 523 

mentioned by Wodrow, no one appears to have been subjected to 
any inconvenience. 

EpiseapoHans.^^Tiiere has been at different times an Episcopa* 
lian minister stationed in this town ; but they have not hitherto 
obtained much support from the inhabitants. The Rev. Erasmus 
Middleton oflSciated for three years, from May 1769 till May 
1772. We have not learned whether any minister succeeded him. 

7. Education. — There are in all at present ten schools in this 
parish, viz. one parochial,— four endowed, — and five unendowed. 
The parochial or grammar school of Dalkeith has long held a 
distinguished place among the seminaries of Scotland. It was in 
former times chiefly eminent for classical studies ;-*-but, during 
the incumbency of the late Rector, (1826-1843), it assumed a 
more comprehensive character, and embraced all the branches of 
a liberal education. In it were taught the English, Latin, Greek, 
and French languages, — occasionally also Italian and German ; 
— writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping ;-— geometry, algebra, and 
practical mathematics ; — geography, history, composition, and 
scripture instruction. The salary is the maximum, — being L.34, 
4s. 4^d. The school- fees were 7s. 6d. for English ; — 10s. 6d. for 
English, Latin, and Greek ; — 5s. for writing and arithmetic ; — 
5s. additional for geography and history ; — and 5s. for geometry, 
algebra, and practical mathematics : — but if the latter two divi- 
sions be taken by themselves, each was 10s. 6d. per quarter. Com- 
position and scripture instruction were taught gratuitously. The 
house and garden are not surpassed in extent, or in beauty of si- 
tuation, by any in Scotland, and reflect the highest credit on the 
liberality of the heritors. The house was built in 1826 expressly 
for the accommodation of boarders, and contains on the ground 
floor four spacious rooms, besides kitchen, laundry, &c. — and nine 
excellent rooms above. The ground attached is somewhere about 
three quarters of an acre, including, besides the garden, a piece of 
ground called the park, given in perpetual feu to the rector of the 
grammar school, at the yearly duty of L.1 Sterling.* The extent 
and figure of the whole may be seen in the ground plan ofDalkeith, 
drawn in 1822 by Mr J. Wood. Of the unendowed schools, one is 
set apart for the education of infants or very young children, — and 
the Benbow school (established in 1825), for the children of very 
poor persons, both being supported by the Duchess of Buccleuch. 
The schools of Lugton and Whitehill are chiefly for the children 

* Records of ICirk-Scssion, aniic^ 1 752. 



^^^ EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

of colliers. The remaiDing schools are on priTate adventure, and 
the fees are in general extremely moderate. At the grammar 
school, the average fee in 1843 was ISs. per quarter ; — at one of 
the adventure schools, 86. ; — and the other schools may be from 
Is. to 5s. per quarter. 

The respectable portion of the inhabitants are alive to the be- 
nefits of a good education ; — but a great many are very indiffe- 
rent No part of the parish is so distant from the school as to 
prevent attendance ; — but a systematic arrangement and allocation 
of the business of education, with well-qualified teachers, is more 
wanted here than any addition to the present number of schools. 
It may not be easy to determine the precise effect of a good scrip- 
tural education in individual cases, — but there can be no doubt 
that its direct influence, as well as its general tendency, is most 
beneficial* 

Matters of the Grammar School — 

1. AAdrew Allan, 1582. He was teacher and reader. 

2. Mr George Hastie, 1591. << He might assist the minister in 
preaching, if provision could be got for him." There was to be 
only one school in the town. 

S. Mr Robert Abercrombie, 1619-1622. He was also a 
preacher. 

After Mr Abercrombie there had been no schoolmaster for a 
long time from want of provision. An allowance of 250 merks 
per annum, besides house and garden, was made by the Lord of 
Buccleuch to the master, and 50 merks for a doctor or assistant. 

4. Mr Ninian Douglas, on the 11th November 1647, was re- 
commended by the Presbytery to be master of the school ; but 
being accused of drunkenness, swearing, &c. he was deposed on 
the 15th March 1655. 

5. Mr Thomas Chambers, 1661. Presbytery Records, 15th 
August 1661. — ** At a visitation, inter alia^ the minister, heritors, 
and elders, being enquired about Mr Thomas Chambers, school- 
master, his diligence, painfulness, and conversation, they answered 
that they would have him admonished and exhorted to more dili- 
gence, and painful onwaiting on his charge. The presbytery ad- 
monished him, and did exhort him to more diligence, and to ex- 
ercise more authority over the children, and to beware of anything 
that might be a hindrance to him in the exercise of any part of his 
charge." . 



DALKEITH. ^25 

6. Mr John Bower, 1670-1703. 

7. Mr Alexander Dykes, 1707-1726, 

8. Mr John Leslie became master of Dalkeith Grammar School 
in 1731. He came from the grammar school of Haddington, 
where he bad taught with approbation since 1720. He died in 
1739. He has left no writings, so far as we know; but he was 
considered at that time as one of the ablest teachers of Scotland. 
Principal Robertson, the celebrated historian, was one of his pu- 
pils ; he could not, however, have been much longer than two years 
under his charge, as he left school at the autumnal vacation of 
173a* 

Mr John Love became rector of the grammar school of Dal- 
keith in October 1739, He was born at Dumbarton in July 1695. 
Having received the rudiments of his education at his native place, 
he studied for some time at Glasgow College, and returning to 
Dumbarton, became assistant to his former master, and succeeded 
him in 1720. In 1735, -he was chosen, by comparative trial, one 
of the masters of the High School of Edinburgh. In 1739 he 
was appointed by the Duke of Buccleuch to the grammar school 
of Dalkeith. Having taught here with great ability and success 
for eleven years, he died on the 20th Septembei^ 1750, at the age 
of 55. His character is thus described by Ruddiman : ^^ For his 
uncommon knowledge in classical learning, his indefatigable dili« 
gence, and strictness of discipline without severity, Mr John Love 
was justly accounted one of the most sufficient onasters in the 
country." 

Mr James Barclay was appointed master of Dalkeith Grammar 
School in 1750. He conducted the business of the school with 
great ability and success, and died in 1765.} 

* Dogald Stewart*8 Life of Robertson. 

t For a full account of this eminent teacher, see Chalmers's Life of Ruddiman 
He was the author of the following works, yis. 

1. Animadversions on the Latin Grammar, lately published by Mr Robert Trotter, 
Schoolmaster at Dumfries. By Mr John Love, Schoolmaster at Dumbarton. Edin- 
burgh, 1733. 

2. A Vindication of Mr George Buchanan, in two Parts. Edinburgh, 1749. (98 
paffesSvo.) 

a. He published, along with Mr Robert Hunter, (who afterwards became Profes- 
sor of Greek in the University of Edinburgh,) a most correct and elegant edition of 
Buchanan's Psalms, illustrated with Notes, original and selected. Printed by Rud» 
diman in 1737. 

There is also ascribed to him by Chalmers, in his Life of Ruddiman, a pamphlet, 
entitled, ** Buchanan's and Johnston's Paraphrase of the Psalms compared." — Edin. 
1740. 

± He published the following works : 

T. A Treatise on Education, &c. Edinburgh, 1743. 

2, The Greek Rudiments, in which all the grammatical difficulties of that langunge 



^26 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Mr Lawrence Douglas became master of the grammar school 
of Dalkeith in the year 1766. 

Mr Alexander Christison succeeded Mr Lawrence Douglas io 
1 781. He was born in the parish of Cockburnspathi in Berwick- 
shire, in the year 1749. He is of the number of those meri- 
torious persons of whom Scotland can furnish so many examples, 
who, at a mature age, by invincible diligence and perseverance, have 
supplied the defect of early school education. By the private in- 
structions of Mr William Johnston, teacher of Coldingham, he 
acquired with extraordinary rapidity the elements of scholastic 
learning, and was thus enabled to become candidate for the parish 
school of Edrom, which he obtained by comparative trial on the dd 
March 1775. On the 19th September 1777, he left this situation 
and studied for some time in Edinburgh, where his talents and di- 
ligence attracted the notice of the professors. In May 1 776 he was 
appointed one of the masters of Wats(»n's Hospital. From thence, 
in 1781, he was removed to the grammar-school of Dalkeith. Her« 
he taught with great celebrity for six years ; and in 1787 was ap- 
pointed one of the masters of the High Schoc^ of Edinburgh. 

His talents, learning, and diligence were so much admired^ that, 
on the decease of Professor Hill, he ^as appointed to the Chair 
of Humanity in the University of Edinburgh in 1806 ; and after 
performing the duties of his office with great fidelity, he died on 
the 25th June 1820, much regretted. Mr Christison was remark- 
able for his considerate attention to the poorer class of his stu- 
dents, and his memory will be long cherished by the numerous 
individuals who owe the beginning of their advancement io the 
world to his generous and disinterested kindness. * 

Mr Ebenezer Bell succeeded Mr Christison in 1787. He was 
considered a good teacher of Latin. He had long a numerous 
school of boarders, from which he realized a considerable sum of 
money. He died on the 15th February 1826. 

Mr Peter Steele, A. M., was appointed Rector of the Grammar 
School of Dalkeith on the 15th of April 1826. 

are adapted to the capadties of children, after tlie plan of Mr Ruddimau's Latin Ri»» 
dimenta. Edinburgh, 1754. Printed by Thomas and W. Ruddiman* 

3. The Rudiments of the Latin Tongue ; in whieh the difficulties of all the parts 
of our Latin grammars are made plain to the capacities of ehildren. By James Rar- 
clavi A. M.I Rector of the Grammar School of Dalkeith. Edinburgh, I756L 

* Though his mind tras richly stored with Tarious knowledge. Professor Christison 
has left no writings behind him to which his name is attached, with tbe exception of 
the following pamphlet, entitled, ** The General Diffusion of Knowledge, one great 
Cause of the Prosperity of North Britain ; with an Appendix, oootaiatng a Proposal 
for improving the Present Mode of Teaching tbe Greek Language. £din. 1802. 
He msde also a few contributions to the *' Annals of Philosophy,** a periodical long 
conducted by the celebrated Dr Thomson, Professor of Chemistry in Glasgow. 



DALKEITH. 527 

Secession Church. — The first seceders in or about Dalkeith be- 
longed to the congregation of the Rev. Adam Gibb, 1744, at that 
time the only secession congregation in Edinburgh. In the year 
1745 or 1746, they began to receive sermon in Dalkeith, and were 
making some preparations for the erection of a meeting-house. In 
1747, in consequence of the breach concerning the burgess oath 
that took place in the synod, the people here also divided, when 
each party proceeded to erect a separate place of worship. 

In 1749 a session was formed here in the congregation of the 
Associate Antiburghers; — their first minute bears date 2d May 
1749. 

The Rev. John Robertson, the first minister, was ordained at 
Dalkeith on the Sd April 1755. He laboured faithfully and suc- 
cessfully about twenty years, and died in the year 1775. 

The Rev. George Whytock, the second minister, was ordained 
at Dalkeith on the 17th of April 1776. He was a man of very 
considerable talent, laboured diligently in the work of the ministry, 
and took an active part in the business of the Church courts. He 
acted for a number of years as clerk to the Associate Presbytery 
of Edinburgh, and for sometime conducted the Christian Magazine, 
along with the late Dr M^Crie. Besides contributing largely to 
the Magazine, he wrote a number of small pieces, particularly an 
approved treatise on the Presbyterian form of Church Govern- 
ment.* He died on the 24th October 1805, after having laboured 
in the ministry about thirty years. 

The Rev. Robert Buchanan, the present minister, was ordained 
on the 6th of August 1806, and continues to discharge the duties 
of his office with fidelity and judgment This congregation has 
never been numerous, but the members have been generally con* 
sidered select and respectable. 

First Associate Congreffatian.^^The first Associate congregation 
was formed in the year 1744. The Rev. .William Huttoo, the 
first minister, was admitted to the pastoral charge of it in 1750, 
by translation from Stow, where he had formerly been minister for 
ten years. This was the first instance of the removal of a minister 
from one charge to another in the Secession Church. Mr Hut- 
ton died on the 7th of February 1791, in the eightieth year of 
his age, and fiftieth of his ministry. 

The Rev. John Jeffray, the second minister, was ordained as- 
sistant and successor to the Rev. William Hutton on the 7th Ja- 

* These haye been republished by his son, Mr Richard Whytook, in 1483. 



d2S EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Duary 1784. His connection with the congregation was dissolved 
by deed of synod in the end of the year 1796, on account of men* 
tal derangement, — ^the congregation providing for his support as 
long as he lived. 

The Rev. Thomas Brown, D. D., the third minister, son of the 
well-known John Brown of Haddington was ordained at Dalkeith 
on the 22d January 1799, and died on the 22d June 182&* 

The Rev. David King, the fourth minister, was ordained at 
Dalkeith on the ISth January 1830, and was removed by deed of 
synod in September 1833, and translated to Grayfriars church, 
Glasgow, as successor to the late Dr Dick. 

The Rev* Joseph Brown, the fifth minister, was ordained at 
Dalkeith on the 27th of August 1834. 

The Belief Congregation. — The earliest Relief congregation here 
was formed about the year 1768. The Rev. Robert Hutchison, 
the first minister, was ordained in 1770, and died in 1799. 

The Rev. Alexander King, the second minister, was ordained 
in 1799. After exercising his ministry for about four years, be 
became insane ;^-he was supported in an asylum for many years 
by his congregation, and died on the 13th March 184l.t 

The Rev. James Scott, the third minister, was ordained on the 
24th May 1805, and was translated to Edinburgh on the 18th 
October 1818. 

The Rev. Thomas Eraser, the fourth minister, was ordained on 
the 18th May 1819. He demitted his charge on the 19th May 
1826, and went to the United States of America. 

The Rev. William Craig, the fifth minister, was ordained on 
the 18th July 1827, and died on the 17th April 1834, in his dOtb 
year.} 

The Rev. Charles Waldie, the sixth minister, being translated 
from Dunfermline, was inducted to his charge on the 17th Sep- 
tember 1834. 

Wesleyan Meihodists. — Dalkeith was first visited by the preachers 
of this body in 1787. Wesley himself preached here in 1788, 
and with such success, that soon after, in the same year, a resi- 

* He published '* A Defence of Infant Baptism, from its connexion with the Faith 
and its Influence on the Practice of Christians/^ a Sermon. Edin. 1817. He pub- 
lished some other detached sermons. The whole were collected and published in one 
Tol. 8vo. Edin. 1828. 

t His portrait is given in No. 131 of Original Portraits, &c by John Kay. Edin. 
burgh, 18da 

$ His sermons, and a short account of his life were published in a posthumous to* 
lume. Edin. 1834. 



DALKEITH. 629 

dent minister was settled in this town* Since that time Dal- 
keith has been regularly incorporated with the Edinburgh Circuity 
and supplied by the preachers sent to Edinburgh, one of whom 
has generally been located here during the period of his ap- 
pointment. In the year ITSQ, their present place of worship was 
finished, previously to which public worship was conducted in a 
place which had for some time been occupied by aa Episcopalian 
minister, but was then yacant. The congregations are not so large 
as they were some years past ; there having been a manifest de- 
crease of hearers since the Dissenting congregations opened their 
places of worship for service on Sabbath evenings. The number 
of regular members in the society is about forty. 

Congregational CAurcA.— The Congregational Church in Dal- 
keith was formed in the year 1604. This body is connected with 
the Congregational Union of Scotland, and holds the same gene* 
ral views of doctrine and discipline which the Independents, both 
of Scotland and England, are known to entertain. They meet 
in a chapel of their own, which seats about 400 persons. 

Mr Alexander Arthur, their first minister, was ordained in the 
spring of 1805. He died in 1829. He was a man of modest 
and retired habits, and was highly respected.* 

Mr Edward Napier, the second minister, was ordained in Au- 
gust 1831. He died on the 16th March 1842, in the thirty-ninth 
year of his age. 

Mr Anthony T. Gowan, the third minister, was ordained on 
the 9th June 1 84a 

Free Church. — This congregation was formed on the 28th May 
1843; and the Rev. John Macfarlane, formerly minister of the 
parish of CoUessie, Fife, was admitted their minister on the 19th 
January 1844. 

Literature. — A circulating library has existed in this town 
since 1768. It consists at present of upwards of 3000 volumes. 
A subscription library was established here in 179S; — it con- 
tains at present about 2400 volumes in the various departments 
of miscellaneous literature. A scientific Association was formed 
here in 1835, for the purpose of providing popular instruction 
in science, for the inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood, 
at a moderate expense. Nothing could be more gratifying 

* He was the author of two anonymous works, viz. 1. Winter Evenings^ Conver- 
sations between a Father and his Children, on the Works of God» Edinburgh, 1824, 
second edition. 2. Family ConTersatioos on the Eyidencei and Discoveries of Reve- 
lation, Edinburgh, 1824. 

EDINBURGH. L 1 



530 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

than the success which the Association experienced for several 
years ; — and we enjoyed the high privilege of hearing excellent 
lectures in eight of the most important sciences; — but, partly 
from a difficulty in procuring a succession of suitable lecturers, and 
partly from a want of interest that arose among the town's^people, 
the lectures, to the great disadvantage of the pommunity, have for 
some years been discontinued. There is no public reading-room* 
We have a printing press ; but no newspaper or other periodical 
is published in Dalkeith. 

Charitable and other Institutions. — We may safely affirm that 
there are few places where the poor have been more carefully at- 
tended to than in this parish. We believe that a great amount of 
poverty and distress is relieved by private benevolence ; — the 
ample funds which were formerly at the disposal of the kirk*ses- 
sion lightened the miseries or the burdens which must have other- 
wise been felt ; — and the deserving poor have always found sea- 
sonable relief from the distinguished generosity of the Noble 
House of Buccleuch. A charity work-house was established in 
this town, for the benefit of the parochial poor, in the year 1750.* 
The house was built by the joint contribution of heritors, kirk- 
session, and inhabitants of the town. It stood in an open space of 
ground between the town and the North Esk. Being required as 
an hospital for the troops stationed in Dalkeith, during the war 
with France, it was, about the year 1803, exchanged for the old 
manse,^-the Duke of Buccleuch having given for the benefit of 
the poor a compensation sum of L. 155. The management of 
the institution was vested in a committee of thirty-six persons, re- 
presenting the heritors, kirk session, and certain classes of the 
inhabitants. It was capable of accommodating about forty inmates, 
who were to be employed in useful industry. For many years the 
establishment was supported by voluntary contributions, — a por- 
tion of the funds of the kirk-session, — and the proceeds of the la- 
bour of the inmates. The kirk-sesvion expended the rest of their 
funds upon the poor of the parish, who were kept on a separate 
roll. The comfort of the poor was, upon the whole, well attended 
to, and the establishment was productive of much good ; — but, in 
course of time, as the demand for the labour of the inmates fail- 
ed, and the voluntary ofierings were but partially furnished, the 
supplies fell short of the expenditure, and an assessment was re- 
sorted to in 1813, as the best means of proportioning the amount 

* Records of Kirk-Session, a. d. 17jO. 



DALKEITH. 531 

of contribution to the ability of the inhabitants. It continued for 
several years to bear the character of a poor-house rather than a 
house of industry ;— -till) in 1833, it was thought expedient, from 
various causes, to abolish the institution ;— ^nd, in a few years af» 
terwards, the entire management of the poor of the parish wasr 
placed in the hands of the heritors and kirk-session, as provided 
for in the statute. The average expense for the support of the 
charity work^house, including its out-door paupers, was usually 
about L.500 per annum. 

Besides the charity work-house, various other societies have 
been formed for the relief of the poor. The Indigent Sick So- 
ciety was formed in 1808; the Old Women's Society in 1814; 
the Clothing Society, for supplying work to industrious poor wo- 
men, in 1837. 

Friendly Societies. — There are ten friendly societies connected 
with Dalkeith. The Weavers' was instituted in 1566; the Ham- 
mermen's in 1694; the Shoemakers' in 1714; the Free Masons' 
in 1724; the Old Carters' in 1745; the Gardeners' in 1808; the 
Youths' in 1811 ; the Buccleuch Carters' in 1828; the Recha- 
bites' in 1840 ; and the Odd Fellows' in 1841. It is believed that 
their effect has been beneficial. 

Poor. — Average number of persons receiving parochial aid, 106. 
The sum allotted to each of such persons per week, varies from 6d« 
to 4s. per week. Average annual amount of contributions for re- 
lief of the poor, L.670, 17s. 7d.: from church collections, L.49, 
Ps. 2^d, including mortcloth dues ; from legal assessments, L.510, 
19s. 5d. ; from alms or legacies, &c., L.110, 17s. ll^d. 

A National Security Savings Bank was established in Dalkeith 
in 1810; — the sum invested for the year ending 20th November 
1843 was L.2822, 18s. 9d., and the sum withdrawn was L.1849, 
9s. 2d. The investments are chiefly made by persons among the 
working classes. 

Prison. — The prison is situate in the High Street opposite the 
church, and is a pl^in old building.* It contains on the ground 
floor two apartments ; — one is used as a weigh-house on market 
days, and in the other there is a prison and black-hole for offend- 
ers ; — on the floor above there is a court-room for judicial meet- 
ings, and the adjoining room is also used as a prison. The of- 

* The stone over the door, bearing the arms of the Earl of Buccleuch, and the date 
1648, was no part of the original building, and does not indicate its age. It was 
brought from the grounds of the palace* and placed in its present position when the 
prison was last repaired, within the memory of persons still living. 



532 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

fences for which confinemeot is awarded, are generally drunken- 
ness on the streets, rioting, theft, &c., and occasionally offenders 
are lodged there on their way to Edinburgh.* The confinement 
does not continue longer than twenty-four hours. The prison is 
well secured, — the diet is good, — but the prisoners have no bed- 
ding except straw ; — and, in one of the apartments, communica- 
tion may be held through the grating with persons on the outside. 
Males and females are placed in separate apartments. The num- 
ber of persons confined during the year is about thirty. The pri- 
son is under the superintendence of the Bailie of Barony.f Since 
the establishment of the county police, in 1841, this jail has been 
in a great measure superseded, — offenders being now lodged in a 
police office properly fitted up in the West Wynd. 

Fairs, — By a statute, passed in 15dl,§ a fair was ordained to be 
held annually in Dalkeith on the 10th of October. It is now 
held on the third Tuesday of that month. By a statute,^ passed 
in 1672, two other fairs were appointed to be held annually for 
the benefit of the town, the one on the last Tuesday of April, and 
the other on the second Tuesday of July; — but they have been 
discontinued. In 1820, at the suggestion of the Agricultural As- 
sociation, a fair for horses was appointed to be held in May, on the 
first Thursday after Rutherglen fair, which still continues.§ Two 
other markets have been recently introduced for hiring servants, 
one on the second Thursday of October, and the other on the 
last Thursday of February. 

Inns^ Alehouses^ Sfc. — We have at present (1844) 3 inns,—- 45 
ale-houses, — and, including these, 62 spirit-dealers in the parish. 
In 1839 there were 85. A certain number of these may be con- 
sidered necessary ; — but, unquestionably, the multitude that have 
long been established here, have proved most injurious to the 
morals of the people. The dram-shops especially, that invite the 
labourer in the morning, or minister to the cravings of street wan- 
derers at night, ought to be regarded as a moral nuisance, and dis- 
countenanced by every person of respectability* 

* As a historical fact in connection with this prison, it may be mentioned, that 
Andrew Guillan, weaver, who lived near Magus Moor, and who was executed at 
Edinburgh on the 20th of July 1683, for beiog present at the murder of Archbishop 
Sharpe, was apprehended near Cockpen for refusing to drink the king^ hf^Ith, and 
confined one night in Dalkeith Jail on the llth of June 1683. The account of his 
apprehension, trial, and execution, which is deeply interesting, is narrated at length 
by Wodrow in his History of the Church of Scotland, Vol. ii. page 303-4) folio 
edition. 

t See Report of the Commissioners on Prisons, Vol. xxxi. a, n. 1837-8. 

t Acts of Scot. Pari, Vol iii. page 238, 

§ Ibid, Vol. iii. page 238, Vol. viii. page 74, 1672. 



DALKEITH. 533 

Fuel. — Coal from the mines in the neighbourhood is universally 
employed for fuel, and the expense, according to the quality, is 
from 6s. 8d. to 8s« 4d. per ton ; — or 4d. to 5d. per cwt. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

Since the publication of the last Statistical Account, most im- 
portant improvements have taken place in Dalkeith. New houses, 
churches, and streets have been built; the hamlets have been 
rendered more comfortable ; — new roads have been opened and 
bridges constructed ; — stage*coaches have been multiplied ; — 
gas-light, railroads, banks, libraries. Sabbath schools, infant and 
charity schools, religious, charitable, and scientific associations 
have been introduced ; — agriculture has been conducted upon a 
more enlightened system, — and the working of the coal mines has 
been vastly extended. 

Suggestions. — The town should be thoroughly drained. A por- 
tion of the fields on the south-west of the town might be advan- 
tageously laid out in small villas, suited to the accommodation of 
genteel families, and at a moderate rent. Improvements in ag- 
riculture and manufactures, that supersede the necessity of 
human labour, ought to be cautiously introduced; — employ- 
ments in greater variety, and yielding a better remuneration, 
ought to be provided for female industry ; — the education of the 
young, especially among the lower orders, and their religious and 
moral training ; and the health, habits, employment, and instruc- 
tion of the adult poor and labouring classes, and their general 
comfort and happiness, ought to receive more attention from the 
upper and more influential parts of the community than they have 
hitherto done. 

November 1844. 



UNITED PARISHES OF 

FAIA AND SOUTRA. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. JAMES INGRAM, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
SituatioHj Extent^ Surface^ Prospect. — The former of these 
parishes is situated in Mid-Lothian, and the latter in East Lothian. 
United, they form a parallelogram, 5 miles long, from east to 
west, and 3.^ miles broad, from north to south. The adjoining 
parishes are, Humbie on the east ; Humbie and Crichton on the 
north ; Stow on the west ; and Channelkirk on the south. The 
eastern division of the united parishes, comprising somewhat less 
than half their extent, presents an undulating surface, well culti- 
vated and fertile, composed of clayey soil, and producing all the 
variety of crops common in the Lothians. The western division, 
being a ridge of the Lammermoor mountains, is, excepting a few 
cultivated spots, all laid out in sheep pasturage. The great road* 
between Edinburgh and Lauder is the line of demarcation, and is 
at present greatly frequented. There are twelve stage coaches pass- 
ing daily. The distance from Edinburgh is about 14 miles, and 
about 8 miles from Dalkeith, the nearest market-town. The high- 
est top of Soutra has been ascertained to be 1230 feet above the 
level of the sea. The ancient site of Soutra church and hospital, 
1184 feet ; the site of Fala church, 800 feet. « To a traveller 
coming from the south, the view from Soutra is most enchanting. 
Passing for a considerable way through the dreary moor, where 
nothing meets the eye but barren heath, here, all at once, the fine 
cultivated counties of Mid and East Lothians, with the Frith of 
Forth and coast of Fife, burst upon his view. The suddenness 
of the changOi and the mingled group of hills, and dales, and woods, 

* Thig road is carried by a large tunnel over the Dean burn, the arch of which 
measures 150 feet in length, 20 feet of span, and 8 ftet rise. The embankment over 
this tunnel is dO feet in breadth on the top. The slope on each side is 14 horiaontal 
to 1 perpendicular. The height of the embankment above the arch is 85 feet 

a 



FALA AND SOUTRA. 535 

and waterS) which now stretch extensive to the eye^ give such a 
throb of pleasure to the heart as is not to be described."* Even 
after his descent from Soutra's ridge to the lower but still elevat- 
ed region, this pleasure of the tourist is prolonged* Seldom is 
the view of so many noted and lovely spots included within a drive 
or a couple of miles* The beautiful villa and grounds of Woodcot, 
adorned by the cascade of Linndean, forcing its troubled waters 
through the gorge which there divides Soutra from Humbie, 
lies immediately beneath the road. The beautifully undulating 
parish of Humbie, its lovely hills cultivated or planted to their 
summits, its retired valleys giving shelter to many a comfortable 
mansion, and its meandering streams diflfusive of beauty and fer- 
tility, next spreads itself along the northern base of Lammermoor. 
There the ancient sites of Hamilton and Pala Halls, (although 
their mansions are now deserted and dismantled,) by the sin- 
gular beauty of their situation, their cultivated fields and wooded 
inclosures, and their intersecting rills, — and then the church on 
the summit of a ^' law,"t with its adjacent village, also occupying 
a commanding situation, with the commodious inn of Blackshiels, 
a village in itself, — and the mansion-houses of Whitburgh and 
Costerton, the one on an elevated, the other in a retired and most 
romantic situation, — afford every variety of delight to the lover of 
the picturesque. At some miles distance, Saltoun Hall elevates 
its imposing front, displays its extensive plantations, occupying the 
whole extent of a lovely valley : and Elphinstone tower, occupying 
a lofty summit, lifts up its embattled walls on high. Within a still 
wider range, but still, by the aid of a clear sky, within the sphere 
of distinct vision, are the town and environs of Haddington, — 
then, Traprain Law, the Bass, the^Isle of May, Berwick- Law, 
the Earl of Hopetoun's Monument, Inchkeith, Arthur's Seat, and 
between it and the Pentland hills, the Castle of Edinburgh, con- 
spicuous in all its strength and majesty, delight and astonish by 
their multiplied attractions. Still farther, the Forth, its shipping 
and steamers quite discernible, and beyond, the Lomonds and 
Laws of Fife in full view, to the East Neuk itself, complete a 
landscape of extraordinary beauty. 

Climate. — The climate is very salubrious, although the air is 
sharp and sometimes loaded with fogs caused by the wet and 

* Former Statistical Account. 

t Chalmers in bis Caledonia derives the name Fala from Fah,ofthe Anglo-Saxon, 
which signifies ** speckled,*^ and ** law,^ the sort of hill on which the church sunds. 



536 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

marshy grounds of the hilly part of the parish. The greatest im- 
provement of the climate might be made by plantation of the 
ridges of Soutra Hill, and by drainage of a morass called Fala 
flow, which is situated about 1000 feet above the sea. This is, 
indeed, already in progress, — a most necessary road and several 
plantations having been laid out near the church at the north- 
eastern extremity of Fala-moor. 

IL — Civil History. 
Eminent Men. — Mr John Logan, the author of a volume of 

very elegant sermons, of ** Elements of the Philosophy of His- 
tory," and of a variety of lyric and elegiac poems, and of some 
of the finest paraphrases in our Church collection, was born at 
Soutra in the year 1748. 

Antiquities. — History, — On the summit of Soutra Hill formerly 
stood the church and village of Soutra, appropriately and graphi- 
cally designated by that name, which signifies in the Cambro- Bri- 
tish, *^ the hamlet with a prospect." This village was anciently a 
place of consideration and resort, and a scene of the stirring os- 
tentatious chiirity of the middle ages. Malcolm IV. founded here, 
in 1164, a hospital for the relief of pilgrims, and the shelter and 
support of the poor and the afflicted, and he endowed the institu- 
tion with some lands near St Leonards in the vicinity of Edinburgh, 
and conferred upon it the privileges of a sanctuary. A causeway, 
leading from the vale of the Tweed to Soutra, and still traceable 
among the sinuosities of the mountains, bore the significant name 
of Girthgate, meaning the asylum or sanctuary road. A small 
eminence, about half a mile south of the hospital, is still called 
Cross-chain-hill, and would appear to have had a chain suspended 
for a considerable way along its summit, to mark the limits of the 
privileged ground. The establishment was called the Hospital of 
the Holy Trinity, and, by the generosity of its founders and of 
others in after times, it became one of the best endowed hospitals 
in Scotland. The masters and brothers of the hospital were own* 
ers of the church of Soutra with its pertinents, also of the church 
of Wemyss in Fife, with its tithes and tofts, the church of Kirkurd, 
and the church of St Martins, with their pertinents ; also the 
church of Limpetlaw, and the church of St Griles of Comiston. 
On the approach of Edward L in the year 1296, Thomas, the 
Master of the Trinity Hospital, Soltre Hill, did homage to him 
at Berwick, and obtained in return orders to several sheriffs to 
deliver him the estates and rights of the Hospital. Id 1462, 



FALA AND SOUTBA. 



537 



when Mary of Gueldres founded the Trinity College and Hos- 
pital in Edinburgh, she bestowed upon it the endowments of Sou- 
tra Hospital, and converted its dependent church into a vicarage. 
Indeed, the whole establishment, which she founded ^* by aposto- 
lical authority for the praise and honour of the Holy Trinity, and 
the ever-blessed and glorious Virgin of Si Ninian the Confessor, 
and of all the saints and elect of God," was little else than a 
transference of the Trinity Hospital and Church from Soutra Hill 
to Edinburgh. The Town-Council of Edinburgh, getting pos- 
session in 1560-1 of Trinity Church and its pertinents, became 
in consequence proprietors of the ecclesiastical appurtenances of 
Soutra, and the patrons of its church. The first occasion of their 
exercising the right of presentation was on 29th August 1616, 
when, just as the Presbytery of Dalkeith were proceeding to in- 
duct a minister chosen by the parishioners, Mr John Logan ap« 
peared in their assembly bearing a presentation from the provost 
and magistrates of Edinburgh. The Presbytery demurred, on the 
ground that, according to use and wont, they were proceeding, 
with consent of parishioners, to fill up the vacancy. At a subse- 
quent meeting, a letter from the Bishop of Edinburgh was laid on 
the table, in which the Town- Council's claim to the patronage 
was asserted, on the ground that they paid the stipend of the mi- 
nister. Upon this the Presbytery referred the matter to the Sy- 
nod, and it was, in consequence of the decision of this superior 
court, that Mr John Logan was inducted into the church of 
Soutra. 

The patronage of Fala belonged, previously to the Reformation, 
to the lairds of Edmestown of that ilk. The historv of this 
church is involved in obscurity until the year 16Id, when, on 
the 20th of February, it was united to Soutra by the admis- 
sion of the same Mr John Logan as minister of both parishes. 
From this time the patronage has been exercised alternately by 
the Town- Council of Edinburgh and the proprietors of Fala. 
This property descended at length to Thomas Hamilton of Pres- 
ton, and his daughter Elizabeth brought the estate of Fala, with 
the vice -patronage, to her husband. Sir John Dalrymple of Cous- 
land. 

By the seizure of its charity revenues, the ruin of its hospital, 
and the reduction and afterwards the abandonment of its church, 
the village of Soutra was stripped of its importance, and brought 
to desolation. The seat of conviviality and busy, though doubtful 



fi3d EDINBURGUSUUIE. 

charity, of a great hospital, and of a general refuge for the dis- 
tressed debtor, the weary traveller, the friendless pauper, and the 
afflicted invalid, is now silent and abandoned to the lonely visits of 
the mountain sheep. Some hardly perceptible tumuli, ovei^rown 
with herbage, faintly indicate the site of prostrate dwellings. Slight 
irregularities of surface, with not a tombstone or the small tumulus 
of a grave, dimly mark the limits of a cemetery. A single aisle 
of the church, rising amidst a dreary sward of heath, and preserved 
from the common ruin by its inclosing the burial-place of the Mait- 
land of Pogbie family, is the sole memorial of Soutra, and the only 
monitor, on this once stirring and famous area, of the instability 
and vanity of the institutions of mortal man. 

In the immediate vicinity of the aisle is a small piece of ground 
called Boatman's Acre, with which the following tradition is con- 
nected: — King James V., who indulged the habit of travelling 
incognito, came one day to the house of a person called Pringle, 
who lived at Soutra Hill, from whom he requested lodgings for 
the night. The goodman, delighted with the humour and con- 
versation of his guest, directed his wife to take down from the 
baulks the hen that sat next the cock, and to prepare it for the stran- 
ger's supper. The monarch, in return for this hospitality, made 
Pringle (and his descendants) proprietor of the ground, of which 
he had till then been tacksman, on condition of him and his heirs 
presenting a lien to the king and his successors in the sovereignty. 
This property remained in the possession of Pringle's descendants 
till about twenty years ago, when it was purchased by the proprie- 
tor of Woodcot, in the heart of whose lands it lay, — the Pringle 
family retaining only a burying-place at Soutra, with a monumen- 
tal stone, built into the eastern gable of the aisle. 

About half a mile to the south of the aisle, and directly on the 
Girthgate, lies a small spot, of an appearance quite distinct from 
the adjoining heath. It is called the King's Inch. Being the 
property of no individual, it has been used from time immemorial 
as a resting-place by drovers for their cattle, in taking them from 
one distant market to another ; and it is wonderful, that though 
there is no direct road to it now^ and though it lies quite out of 
the way, drovers of the present day, especially from the High- 
lands, continue to avail themselves of it. 

On the north side of the hill, a little below where the hospital 
stood, there is a fountain of excellent water, which was dedicated 
to the Holy Trinity, still called Trinity Well. This well, though 



PALA AND SOUTIIA. 539 

it does not now appear to have any medicinal qualities, was for* 
Qierly much celebrated, and much frequented by invalids. 

III. — Population. 
The population of the united parishes was, according to the last 

census, 393. It was 312 in 1755. These inhabitants are collected 
to the number of 120 in the villages of Fala and Fala-dam, and for 
the remainder are dispersed in small hamlets and single cottages 
over the different farms. Their dwellings are most generally of a 
very humble description, although in this respect also there is a 
tendency to improvement, and the cottages are usually provided 
with gardens. The people are all employed in tending the flocks 
or in the cultivation of the soil. There are no manufactures or 
means of profitable occupation distinct from agriculture. They 
usually contrive, by an exact economy, to maintain themselves and 
their families respectably ; and they willingly and cheerfully de- 
fray the expenses of the education of their children. They are, 
with few exceptions, temperate and orderly in their behaviour. 
They have established^ by their contributions, an excellent parish 
library ; and they spend much of their leisure in reading and in* 
structive conversation. 

IV. — Industry. 

Cultivation. — The cultivation of the parish is mentioned in the 
former Account as having been *^ in a great measure owing to the 
spirited exertions of the late Mr Hamilton of Fala, who first set 
the example of improvement by inclosing part of his estate with 
ditch and hedge, and sheltering the inclosures with clumps and 
belts of planting, — an example which excited a similar spirit of im- 
provement in the neighbouring gentlemen" of that period, and 
which has been well followed up by the Earl of Stair, his successor 
in the possession of the whole parish of .Fala proper, and also by 
the various proprietors of Soutra.* 

Bent. — The real rental of the parish, now about L. 3000, was 
stated in the former Statistical Account as about L. 1 100. It is 
said not much to have exceeded L. 400 in the year 1727, while 
the valued rent of the parish is L. 1326, 7s. 8d. Scots. The til- 
lage of the parish, rated in the former Account at 17^ ploughgates, 
now employs 2 1 ploughs. The horses employed then for the 
purposes of agriculture were 52, and the number is now about the 

* The present proprietors of Soutra are, Mr Brown of Gilston, Mr Dickson of 
Woodcot, Mr Ogilvie of Soutra, Mr Broun of Kellybaak, and Mr Anderson of 
Kether Brotherstonen 



640 EDINBURGHSHIRE. « 

same. But as, in the iotenreDing period, rarious small farms 
have been joined, and several are now held by persons resident io 
the adjoining parishes, these numbers do not convey a correct idea 
of the increased cultivation* The sheep were then 144 score, and 
their number at present is only 130 score ; while the number of 
black cattle then was 177, and is now about 312. Wool then pro- 
duced from 7s. to lis. per stone, now from 10s. to 15s. 

ff^et.— -Male servants employed in husbandry then earned 
from L. 6 to L. 9 per annum, exclusive of board and lodgings, 
now they receive from L. 9 to L. 11. Female servants then re- 
ceived from L. 3 to L. 4, now usually they get L. 7. Day la- 
bourers then earned from Is. to Is. 6d. per day, now from Is. Sd. 
to^. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Poor. — Of a rural population so industrious and intelligent, very 

few are in the class of actual paupers, and none except the i^ed 
and infirm. These receive from 4s. to 8s. a-mouth, levied by a 
parochial assessment ; while occasional relief is also afforded from 
collections at the parish church and other contributions. But, as 
all the heritors are non-resident, there is a deBciency of the sources 
from which such means of relief might be derived. If the price 
of labour and provisions must remain as at present, barely suflBcient 
to enable the peasantry to subsist and educate their children, with- 
out enabling them to accumulate any considerable savings, or raise 
themselves in 'the scale of society, it is highly desirable that they 
should enjoy a surer prospect of being provided for in their declin- 
ing years. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The church is conveniently situate for the 
population. The date of its erection is not known. Externally, it 
is one of the most humble and unpretending of our sacred edifices^ 
but interesting for its venerable proportions ; its narrow, length- 
ened form, its high peaked roof, its hoary surrounding monumental 
stones and columns, its rude, battered, churchyard wall, and its 
aged, umbrageous trees. It is capable of containing 250. The 
number of communicants at the last and the previous celebration 
of the Holy Supper was 117. 

Within a few hundred yards, is erected a commodious church 
of the United Secession, to which a large congregation from this 
and the adjoining parishes resorts. At the distance of two miles, 
though beyond the bounds of this parish, is also reared a taber* 
nacle of the Free Church, to which several families now repair. 



FALA AND SOUTRA. 541 

The inhabitants are pre-eminently a church-going population. 
Many of them are remarkable for their knowledge of the Holy 
Scriptures. Their humble cottages are the frequent scenes of 
domestic prayer and praise, while the youth partake largely of 
the nurture and admonition of the Lord, administered with pareu« 
tal care and tenderness. 

On the eastern slope of the hill whose summit the church 
crowns, ^nd still at a considerable elevation, stands the manse, 
with its garden within a substantial inclosure. The glebe, of 
nearly eight acres, adjoins, and there is another glebe of about 
six acres on Soutra's summit, besides a right of pasturage for 
pony, cows, and sheep* The stipend from Fala is L.17 per an- 
num, and from Soutra, L.20, 1 2s. 7d. Sterling, 24 bolls 2 firlots 
oats, and 20 bolls 2 firlots bear, — emoluments, which the writer 
of the former Statistical Account, when there was no Exchequer 
allowance, describes as ^' very inadequate to the subsistence of a 
family, unless they are clothed, like the Baptist of old, in coats of 
skins, and live, too, like him, upon locusts and wild honey.'' The 
manse, which was new at the date of the last Account, received 
several important additions and repairs in 1831, and is now a com- 
fortable dwelling. The minister of the Secession church is also 
furnished with a house suitable for his accommodation. 

Edticatioju — At a short distance irom the church, stands the 
parochial school and the master's dwelling. The former is suiB* 
ciently commodious, though very numerously attended ; the latter 
is of the narrowest diAiensions and most irregular construction. 
There is no other school within the bounds of the parish. 

The schoolmaster's salary, which is stated in the former Sta- 
tistical Account as ** not the largest in Scotland, being only L.2, 
4s. 4d.,'^ is OQW the maximum ; but, as the fees of scholars do not 
average more than 10s. per annum each, the schoolmaster of 
Fala, like most of his fellow-labourers in other parishes, is very 
inadequately remunerated^ 

November 1844. 



EDINBURGH. M m 



PARISH OF CURRIE * 

PRESBYTBRYOF EDINBURGH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEED DA LB. 

THE REV. THOMAS BARCLAY, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 

Name, — The name Currie is supposed by some to be deriyed 
from a Celtic word signifying valley, referring probably to the 
dale that serves as the channel of the river ; but there is more 
weight in the opinion of those who think it a modem corruption 
of the Latin word cma, the name given to the place by the Ro- 
mans, who seem, from several traces of ancient encampments, 
to have had a station in the neighbourhood. But though it is 
probable that the name still applied to the parish and the principal 
village traces its origin to this remote source, the names of all the 
other places connected with it seem to be entirely modern. Thus, 
for instance, the village of Hermiston was originally, according to 
popular tradition, nothing else than ^' herdman's town." The 
name of Kenleith is reported, on the same authority, to have arisen 
from being an elevated mark for ships in sailing up the Forth, by 
which they ascertained the direction of Leith ; and that of Cleuch- 
maidstone is said to be derived from being the pass to the chapel 
of St Catharine in the valley below, and having a font of water, 
in which the pilgrims washed before entering the chapel of the 
holy maid St Catharine. 

Extent^ Boundaries^ ^c— The parish of Currie, reckoning from 
the farm of the Gyle, is situated not more than four miles west 
from Edinburgh. From this north-eastern extremity to, Buteland, 
the remotest point in the opposite direction, it extends about eight 
miles in length ; and its breadth, from Redheughs to its southern 
boundary in the Pentlands, does not exceed four and a«half. Its 
superficial character is marked by great irregularity. Undulating 
throughout, and in some parts intersected by steep declivities or 

* Drawn up by the Rev. Robert Jamieson, late incumbent of the parish — now of 
St Paulas, GlaRgow. 



CURRIB. 543 

an isolated knoll, it presents no two portions that can be consi- 
dered exactly alike, or selected as affording a just and correct pic- 
ture of it as a whole ; and yet, as the lands on the north are low- 
lying, being considerably below the level of the canal and the rail- 
way, while those on the south rise to a re^id elevation as they ap- 
proach the mountain range, a general idea of its topography ftiay be 
given by describing the main body of the parish as reclining on a 
slope at a pretty acute angle, with a large tract of high table land 
on the right. 

The, altitude of the parish is from 300 to 850 or 900 feet The 
old bridge at the village of Ctirrie is about 500 ; and the pond on 
Harelaw moor was found by Mr Jardine, who took its level for the 
water springs, to be 802. The temperature of the climate, as 
might be expected from this elevated situation, is cold, and yet 
the air is very salubrious ;— in proof of which we may mention, 
that asthmatic patients are often ordered to enjoy its benefit; and, 
q>eaking generally, the parish has long been, both on account of 
the purity of the atmosphere and the classical beauties of the sce- 
nery, a favourite place of resort with the citizens of Edinburgh dur- 
ing the summer and autumn seasons.- Formerly rheumatism and 
ague were very common ; but from the great extent to which drain- 
age has been carried during the last twenty years, the damp as 
well as the general asperity of the climate has been removed, — 
the health of the inhabitants materially improved, — so that those 
disorders which are indigenous to marshy places are no longer pre- 
valent The west winds, which are moist, piercing, and boisterous, 
prevail during three- fourths of the year; and their coldness, vio- 
lence, and moisture are easily and naturally accounted for by the 
circumstance of their blowing over an immense extent of ocean, 
where no land intervenes to break their impetuosity. There are 
no prognostics of the weather peculiar to Currie that are neces- 
sary to be mentioned, except that, on the appearance of a storm 
in the west, its direction can be generally predicated by the clouds 
breaking on the high ridges of Murieston and Mid-Calder, after 
which they either skirt along the Pentland range or overhang the 
channel of the Forth. Hence it often happens that there is rain 
along the coast of that river while the high land in Currie is per- 
fectly dry, and vice versd. 

SoiL — The north-east district is of a superior quality, and un- 
der the highest culture, growing to advantage every kind of white 
as well as green crop. The south-west or upland district consists 



544 EDINBURGHSHIIIE. 

of a thin, wet, moorish clay, the farmer chiefly depending on the 
growth of oats, the rearing of cattle, and the produce of the dairy. 
** Most of the agricultural improvements in this parish,^ says the 
former Statistical Account, ** are the work of the present race of 
inhabitants, — a singular enough fact in a district only six miles 
from the capital. Mr Craig of Riccarton was the first who set an 
example of enclosing land on bis own estate. The late clergy* 
man, Mr Craig, was the first who introduced into it the modem 
practice of husbandry from £ast Lothian. He was succeeded io 
the same system by the ingenious Professor Pergusson, who has 
made a variety of agricultural experiments on a small property he 
possesses in the parish, which he has changed in a few years from 
a bare heath into a scene distinguished for beauty and fertility." 
Agriculture may be described as now in a state of gi*eat advance- 
ment in this parish, since from the spirited and liberal views of the 
large proprietors, aided by the enlightened and welUdirected in* 
dustry of the farmers, facilities are afforded for the introduction of 
every new improvement. Drainage in all its forms is extensively 
practised, so tbat^ even in the high lands of Currie, — where, at the 
date of the last Statistical Account, the crops are said to have been 
frequently damaged or lost by the winter rains, or whitened only by 
the winter frost, harvest is expected, except inunpropitious seasons, 
with as much regularity, and in proportionate luxuriance, as in the 
lower and more sheltered plains. The ipanure in use, besides the 
ordinary stable produce, consists of guano, compostof lime, or the 
police dung of Edinburgh, which is carried by the canal boats at 
8s. per ton. , It may be added, that several of the farmers have 
been successful competitors at cattle-shows ; and that a plough, 
considered by practical farmers a great improvement on the com- 
mon one, and now introduced into extensive use, was invented by 
Mr John Cuningham, farmer at Harelaw. 

Minerals. — The natural history and geology of the Pentland 
range, as well as of the whole district within ten miles of Edin- 
burgh, including Currie, have been so fully described, first, by 
Professor Jameson in the Wernerian Memoirs, afterwards by the 
late Mr Cunningham, and by Mr Mkclaren, that it is superfluous 
to repeat what is already before the public In addition to the 
scientific details of these writers, it may be noticed, that freestone 
abounds along the south bank of the Water of Leith, but more 
especially in the neighbourhood of the village of Balerno. The 
bed of rock there, which is of the very best quality, is distinguished 



CURRIE. 545 

by this peculiarity, that, although it dips very fast, and uniformly 
lies to the south-west, in most cases it comes to the very surface 
oFthe earth, which enables the tradesmen or men of small capital 
to work it to great advantage. Hence the many neat and com- 
fortable erections in that quarter of the parish. 

There is a kind of bastard limest6ne found in considerable 
quantity on the. south-east of the Malleny estate, which was 
partially wrought some fifty or sixty years ago by the tenantry; 
but after considerable perseverance the work was given up, from 
the great difficulty experienced in quarrying and breaking the 
stone, as well as from the high price of coal, which was brought 
from the other side of the Pentlands on horseback. 

It is said there is a small vein of copper ore on the south bank 
of the Water of Leith, near East Mill. An English company, 
about eighty years ago, sent wprkmen to explore it ; but found it 
too insignificant, ori ncapable of repaying their labour. Coal, 
although reported by some, with great confidence, to exist on the 
Malleny property, has not hitherto been obtained. 

Hydrography. — There is abundance of excellent water. Springs 
are numerous and perennial, of which we may particularize only St 
Mungo's Well, from which the villagers of Currie are supplied ; 
and the celebrated Black springs, which were examined and looked 
to with great interest by the new company, who proposed, a few 
years ago, to procure an additional supply of water for the city of 
Edinburgh. 

The Water of Leith takes its rise within the parish of Mid- 
Calder, at a place called Wester Burn, which, after flowing east- 
ward under the name of Leith-head Water, and being joined at 
Balerno by the Bavelaw, passes Currie, Colinton, Broughton, and 
empties itself into the Frith of Forth near Newhaven. In the 
early part of its course it abounds with small trout ; but the chlo- 
ride of lime and other chemical substances used by the paper- 
makers have almost entirely destroyed them at the village of 
Balerno and downwards. 

IL — Civil History. 
AntiquiKe$. — Currie bridge is said to have stood upwards of 500 

years. The water being very deep beneath it, gave rise to the 
proverb, " As deep as Currie brig," — indicating not only shrewd- 
ness but selfish cunning. 

Riccarton House was formerly a place of considerable strength 
and of great antiquity, if we are to suppose that this was the Ric- 



546 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

carton bestowed by Robert the Bruce as part of the dowry of 
his daughter, when he gave her in marriage to the Steward of 
Scotland. — See Kerr's History of the Bruce. 

Lennox Tower, now popularly called by the uncouth name of 
Lymphoy, was formerly the property of the Lennox family, and a 
place of great strength. It was an occasional residence of the 
lorely but unfortunate Mary, and also a favourite hunting place of 
her son and successor, James VI. In consequence of his pecu- 
niary embarrassments on one occasion, it is said to have fallen into 
the hands of the celebrated George Heriot, and by him bequeath- 
ed to a daughter, from whom, along with the adjoining land, it 
was purchased by the ancestor of the present proprietor. Tradition 
reports it to have had a subterranean communication with Colin- 
ton tower, formerly the residence of the Foulis family ; and, about 
the beginning of the last century,, a piper attempted to explore it. 
The sound of his pipes was heard as far as Currie .bridge, where 
he is supposed to have perished. It certainly had a communica- 
tion with the Water of Leith, and with another building on the 
opposite bank of the river, on the lands of Currie hill, to be men- 
tioned afterwards. Persons living a few years since have descended 
a considerable way down the hidden passage. It is supposed that 
the garrison secured by this means a clandestine supply of water, 
and that, during a siege, when they were hard pressed for provi- 
sions, and the enemy in confident expectation of starving them, 
one of the soldiers in the act of drawing water, accidentally caught 
some fish in his bucket, which the governor boastingly hung out in 
sight of the besiegers. On seeing this unexpected store the assail- 
ants hastily raised the siege, deeming it a hopeless attempt to 
starve a garrison that were so mysteriously supplied. The town 
appears to have been surrounded by a moat, and there are still 
traces of a deep ditch. 

Curriehill Castle was a place of note in the time of Queen 
'Mary. Crawford, in his memoirs of that princess, mentions six 
places in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh as being fortified, — 
three on each bank of the river; among which were Lennox Tower 
on the Queen's side, and Curriehill Castle on the side of her op- 
ponents. 

Malleny and Baberton Houses are also said to have belonged 
to King James. The latter was a few years ago honoured as 
a seat of royalty, having been the temporary residence of the un* 

fortunate Charles X. of France. 

3 



CURKIB* 547 

There are the remains of a Roman station on Warklaw Hill and 
another on Ravelrig Hill. A few years ago there was on the farm 
of Cocklaw, a round tower, nearly 18 feet in diameter, built round 
with stone, and filled with fine sand ; for what purpose is unknown ; 
but it is supposed to have had some connection with the station on 
Kavelrig Hill, as some underground passages have been found in 
parks adjoining that eminence. 

' Enterkiris Yett or Gate. — Tradition reports that a bloody battle 
was fought here between the native Caledonians and the invading 
Danes ; and that the Danish commander, having been killed and 
buried on the field, gave rise to the name, wbich has been in po- 
pular use for centuries. 

Jugs. — Till within these few years a pair of jugs were fastened 
at the north gate of the churchyard ; as well as at Hermiston, at 
Malleny, and also on a large tree at Buteland. 

On the lands of Harelaw, near the present farm-house, there 
was an immense cairn of stones, consisting of probably between 
2000 or 9000 cart-loads, which, on being gradually removed by 
the late Mr Cuningham of Harelaw, was found to contain a stone 
about 2 feet square, inclosing many human bones. There was also 
ploughed up in the same field, a stone-cofiin of the ordinary size, 
but no bones could be discovered. The only thing remarkable in 
it was a piece of broken earthenware. About a quarter of a mile 
to the south of the large cairn were five very tall and large stones 
set perpendicularly in the earth, which, along with the cairn, tradi- « 
tion says, were erected to commemorate a skirmish fought on that 
spot. The legend seems to derive some confirmation from the many 
stone-cofiins discovered at the bottom of the field, and over which 
the late General Scott erected a tombstone with a suitable inscrip- 
tion to mark the spot 

A little to the south-east of Kenleith are the remains of what 
is supposed to have been a camp ; and it is further said that its 
purpose was to guard against a stolen march upon Edinburgh, 
through a hidden and narrow pass on the north-east end of the 
Pentland Hills. 

Along this narrow pass and by the ravine at Cleuchmaidstoue^ 
Sir J4»hn Dalziel of Binns, after having crossed the old bridge at 
Currie, marched the royalist army to attack the covenanters at Bul- 
lion Green. 

Eminent Men. — Sir John Skene of Curriehill was Lord Regis- 



548 BDINBURGH8HIRB. 

ter, and his boo, Sir James Skene^ Lord President in the reign of 
James VL 

The Scots of Malleny of that period, both father and son, 
were .eminent in the legal profession. The son was elevated to a 
seat on the Bench. 

Sir Thomas Craig of Riccartoo, a contemporary of these illus- 
trious men, was celebrated as a feudal lawyer, and attained the 
dignified station of Lord Advocate* 

John Brand of Baberton, a favourite of James VI. 

Sir Archibald Johnstone of Warriston, so famous in the history 
of the Church of Scotland, possessed property in this parish, if 
he did not belong to it. 

James Anderson, LL. D., author of several agricultural essays, 
and projector of the North British Fisheries, was born at Her- 
miston. 

The late General Thomas Scott, who died at the advanced 
age of .06, distinguished himself by his services both in Ame- 
rica and on the continent. He entered the army when almost 
a boy, and on one occasion during the American war, some import- 
ant despatches requiring to be conveyed to a portion of the regi- 
ment which lay on the other side of the enemy, young Sc6tt was 
entrusted with the mission, which he executed with the greatest 
dexterity and success. Having secured the papers in his rifle, 
he assumed the dress of a pedlar, and in that disguise passed 
• safely through the hostile touts. His gallant services were ac- 
knowledged by the Government of Lord Melbourne, who, with- 
out any solicitation, settled a handsome pension upon him for life. 

Heritors. — The following was the roll of heritors in 1691 : Lord 
Ravelrig; Robert Craig of Riccarton; John Scott of Malleny; 
Alexander Brand of Baberton ; D. Denira of Curriehill ; Charles 
Scott of Bavelaw; Laurence Cuningham of Balemo; William 
Chesley of Cockburn. The heritors in 1844, according to their 
valued rent, are. Sir James Gibson-Craig, Bart, of Riccarton; 
Carteret Scott, Esq. of Malleny ; Lord Morton ; Lord Aberdour, 
through his recent marriage into the family of Saughton ; Archi- 
bald Christie, Esq. of Baberton ; John Marshall, Esq. of Currie- 
hill ; Lord Rosebery, Buteland ; Robert Davidson, Esq. of Ra- 
velrig; Graham, Esq. of Ravelrig; the Governors of George 

Watson's Hospital; Lieutenant- Colonel Barclay of Balerno Lodge; 
David Davidson, Esq. of Balerno Bank ; and Miss Davidson of 



CURRIE. M9 

Newmills. The spirited improvements which the large proprie- 
tors are yearly carrying on on their respeftive estates have 
greatly increased the value of these possessions ;— of which we 
may give an instance in that of Malleny, the rental of whicli, about 
sixty years ago, was under Lb300 per annum, whereas it is now up- 
words of L,2000. . . 

There are several respectable families not heritors, who have 
small properties with elegant mansions, which ihey bold of the lar- 
ger estates of Ravelrig and Buteland. 

In connection' with this, we may mention that some families of 
inferior rank have been long resident in the parish, as for instance, 
the present tenant on the farm of East Mill, with his father and 
grandfather, have been farmers on the estate of Malleny for up- 
wards of 120 years. The present tenants on the farms of Hare- 
law, Kenleith, and Baileny, with their progenitors, have held land 
on the same estate upwards of 100 years, and their ancestors, as 
well as those of the Cuninghams of Balerno, have resided within 
the parbh for three or four centuries. 

III. — Population. 
The population of Currie was anciently much larger than it is 

at present. Several populous villages have entirely disappeared, 
and the upper parts of the parbh in particular are much more 
thinly inhabited now than formerly; one main cause of this 
diminution being undoubtedly the extension of &rm$, and the 
various improvements in modern husbandry, by which a few la- 
bourers are competent to do the work which it required many 
hands to overtake. For several years, however, the population of 
this parish has been steadily increasing again from causes altogor 
ther independent of agriculture^ viz. the erection of the numerous 
mills that line the Water of Leith. 

In ]S'2\, it amounted to 1715 
1831, 1833 

1841, 2000 

fjonffevlty. — The inhabitants of Currie are rather famed for 
being long-lived. William Ritchie died at the age of 108. His 
son, Adam Ritchie, exceeded the age of 100. About fifty years 
ago William Napier, Balerno, died at the age of 1 12. William 
was an excellent pedestrian, and was frequently victor at the Lam- 
mas races, formerly a favourite pastime in rural distcicts, where 
the peasantry met and entered the lists to contest for small prizes. 
This man, on one occasion, when running the " bruze" at a wed- 



650 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ding, not only distanced his competitors, but outstripped a person 
mounted on a hunting horse, who rode as arbiter of the race. He 
was through life noted for his prodigious muscular power ; and it 
is mentioned in evidence of his athletic frame^ that he was in the 
habit of providing grass for his cow daily, by cutting it with the 
scythe, when he was upwards of 100. John Dawson died at 
Nether Curriein 1821 at the advanced age of 100. Mr Thomas 
Craig of Riccarton died at the age of 86, having been eighty- 
four years proprietor. A few years ago, six members of the Mai- 
leny family survived, whose united ages averaged 81 years. 

Sports and Amusements. — The annual fair and Old Handsel 
Monday are the only periodical holidays for the working classes, 
on which latter occasion the servants enjoy the pleasure of re- 
turning to the bosom of their families, and spending the close of 
the day with their friends. The early part is generally devoted 
tcr the less innocent amusement of raffles and shooting with fire- 
arms, which, being often old and rusty, as well as wielded by 
inexperienced hands, have occasioned some disagreeable acci- 
dents. 

Currie has a curling club, the members of which have long been 
celebrated for their scientific knowledge of that national game. 
The Malleny family, a few years ago, at very considerable ex- 
pense, constructed a pond, on which the parishioners can at all 
times, and with perfect safety, enjoy the exhilarating sports of the 
ice. There is also a coursing club, which meets once a-week dur- 
ing the season on Malleny Moor. The proprietor generously af- 
fords all his tenants and their friends the privilege of enjoying this 
agreeable pastime, in consequence of which not a few of the re- 
spectable citizens of Edinburgh are accustomed to partake of the 
amusement on Saturdays. 

IV. — Industry. 
The parish is estimated to comprise an extent of from 10,000 

to 11,000 imperial acres. About 6000 of these are arable. One 

hundred and ninety acres form the general extent of the farm&; 

and the average rent of arable land may be stated at Lb 2, 2s. 

per imperial acre, whilst that of pasture land does not exceed 

7s. fid. 

Wages, — A ploughman occupies his house rent free. There 
are 193 of .this description of workmen, including a few other la- 
bourers connected with agriculture. The average wages of hinds, 
for servants hired for farm-work by the year, amount in cash, to- 



CURRIB. 551 

get her with house and garden allowances, to L.86 per annum ; 
while common agricultural day-labourers are paid at the rate of 
10s. per week. Women who are fit for field work are hired at 
lOd. per day, and children at 8d., without victuals. The families 
of many in different branches of trade are accommodated with 
houses by the farmers, on the single condition of giving a sti- 
pulated amount of labour in harvest ; and during that sea- 
son the employers give them maintenance also* There are no 
handloom weavers, colliers, nor miners ; but there are other arti- 
sans of all sorts, whose earnings may vary from Ss. to 14s. per 
week. About 150 persons are connected with the manufactories^ 
among whom are included a good many women, and children 
under fourteen years of age, who are employed in picking rags, 
finishing paper, &c., and earn from ds. 6d. to 6s. per week. 
The rent paid by labourers for a cottage, which has always a gar- 
den attached to it, seldom exceeds L.2 ; and this class of inhabi- 
tants may be described generally as distinguished for their habits 
of cleanliness. A few years ago an attempt was made, on the re- 
. commendation of the Highland Society, to introduce the system of 
cottage and garden premiums ; — ^without, however, being attended 
with the same successful results it has produced in other and more 
sequestered parts of the country. Bad passions were engendered 
between neighbours, — an unwholesome jealousy and dissatisfaction 
rankled in the minds of the unsuccessful competitors ; and the' 
practice, after two years* experiment, was given up ; nor, happily, 
is there much cause to regret its discontinuance, as the people do 
not require any foreign stimulus to maintain the observance of do- 
mestic order and cleanliness. It may be mentioned, that a great 
improvement has recently been introduced here, as elsewhere, into 
the construction of cottages, which, instead of the wretched pig- 
stye-like huts that have so long disgraced the character and de- 
formed the appearance of the country, — being every way unfavour- 
able both for domestic economy and morals, — are neat houses, 
with slated roofs, and divided into two apartments, with other 
appurtenances. The food of the peasantry consists of the various 
preparations of oatmeal, potatoes, wheaten bread, tea and sugar. 

Manufactories. — The Water of Leith, being remarkable for its 
rapid descent, is exceedingly favourable for the erection of water- 
mills, and, although its course does not exceed fourteen miles, it 
boasts of an extraordinary number of this description of works. 
There are three extensive paper manufactories, all at present in 



552 KDINBURGHSHIRE. 

the most flourishing condition, circulating a considerable sum of 
money amongst the shopkeepers in the villages of Currie and 
Balerno. Above the latter place there is an exteosiye yam and 
sail-cloth manufactory on the Bavelaw, — the property of a small 
joint*stock company, and well conducted by one of the partners. 
There are besides one suuff and several flour mills. 

v.-— Pakochial Economt. 
Market-TowfL^-There is no weekly market in Currie. Its 

vicinity to Eklinburgh invites the farmers to carry their produce 
to the capital; and, accordingly, duly as Wednesday returns, 
masters and servants, wiih their various commodities, may be seen 
wending their way eastward ia such numbers, as to convey an im- 
pression that the parish is emptying its population into the city. 
For all articles of household consumption, the numerous shops 
and stores in Currie and Balerno afford every facility. 

fThe establishment of the rural police has been of essential ser- 
vice to the tranquillity and order of the parish. In consequence 
of its vicinity to Edinburgh, a number of idle and disorderly per- 
sons frequently invade it to commit depredations ; and, besides, 
the great abundance of game both on the cultivated fields and on 
the adjoining moors of the Pentlands, present temptations often too 
strong for the young and the profligate to resist. Poaching is 
consequently no uncommon crime ; and, were it not for the sur- 
veillance of an eflScient constabulary, ofiences of this description, 
as wells as petty thefts, would be perpetrated to an extent that 
would materially affect the security of property and the comfort of 
society in the neighbourhood. 

There are three villages, distant about a mile and a half from 
each other, and in these collectively there are seven dram-shops 
and public-houses, which comprise the whole of that description 
of houses in the parish. 

Means of Communication. — The means of communication are 
ample and excellent, — the parish roads in all directions being kept 
in an exceedingly good state, and indeed are in a state of progres- 
sive improvement every year. The same remark is not'applicable 
to the bridges, which, with the exception of one near Hermiston, 
and that, too, only recently widened, are genuine specimens of an- 
tiquity. The turnpike road to Lanark, to and from which there 
is a coach every day, passes along the Currie road ; while that to 
Glasgow, Ayr, and Hamilton goes through the village of Her- 
miston. The line of the Caledonian Railway, which is in con- 



CURRIE. 553 

templation, to Carlisle, stretches along the back of Currie village. 
The canal, as well as the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway, ex- 
tend about two miles along the northern district. 

From this abundant means of communication, every facility is 
afforded for correspondence by letter and otherwise ; and it is re* 
markable, that, in a place where no trade on a very extensive scale 
is carried on, the inhabitants enjoy the privilege of an arrival 
and departure of the post twice a-day. It is brought from Edin- 
burgh vid Colinton by a pedestrian carrier, and. conducted with 
great regularity. 

Ecclesiastical State. — Notwithstanding careful and minute in- 
vestigations, we have not been able to ascertain whether Currie 
was an outpost of the great religious house at Cprstorphine, or 
whether, as is more probable, in common with Fala,. it formed 
part of the property that belonged to the more splendid esta- 
blishment founded by Mary of Guelders (now the Trinity College 
Church of Edinburgh.)* It is certain, however, that in the limes 
of Popish ascendancy in Scotland it was a religious station, and 
that ordinances according to the Roman Catholic ritual were re** 
gularly dispensed here. In the report given in to the Presbytery 
of Edinburgh, 2d May 1627, by the commissioners chosen out 
of the parish of Currie, according to the ordinance of the Lords 
of the Commission, it is declairit ** that the said kirk of Currie 
was of old ane speciall rectorie and personage apperteining to 
the Archedeane of Louthane as ane part of his patrimonie, and 
speciall manssioun and duelling place. And that the same kirk 
wes laitlie takin from the said benefice, and erectit in favoures of 
the proweist, baillies, counsell, and communitie of Edinburgh, and 
disponed to thame be King James of worthie memorie/' At the 
time of the Reformation the inhabitants embraced the Protestant 
faith ; and Currie seems to have been one of the first rural places 
in Scotland that enjoyed the services of a Presbyterian minister, 
being probably raised into importance as the favourite summer re- 
sidence of the Court. The Register of Ministers (published by the 
Maitland Club, 1830,) contains the following entry : *' Mr Adam 

* Part of the lands in Currie undoubtedly belonged to this latter foundation, for 
in an old paper in mj posseasion it is said, ^ thair is no ehaipUories, prebendaries, 
nor frierlandis within the said parochin, except some landis apperteining to the 
proweist and prebandrie and chaiplanes of the Trinitie CoUedge of Edinburgh of 
auld, and now perteining and acclamed to apperteine to the towne of Edinburgh be 
vertue of ane erectioun maid in thair favouris of the said Trinitie CoUedge, viz. the 
landis of Eister and Wester Lintphoyes, and pairt of the landis of Balemo^ and ane 
pairt of the landis of Curriehill possest be the proprietaris thairof, be vertue of their 
tewifl^'* 



554 EDINBURGHSHIRE'. 

Lethanei minister at Currie, 1568-76, to be payit as follows, bis 
stipend, jc li. with tbe kirkland of Curry : And Robeson, reidare 
at Curry, his stipend, xx lb., but (without) kirkland/' — In the se- 
venteenth century, Matthew Lichtone, nephew of the celebrated 
Archbbhop of that name, was curate of Currie during the esta- 
blishment of Episcopacy, and was one of the few, if not the only 
one of his order in this part of the country, not turned out of his 
living at tbe Revolution, an exemption from the consequences of 
that crisis which he owed to the strong attachment of the people, 
to whom he had endeared himself. He died at an advanced 
age, and a monument was erected to his memory, which still forms 
a prominent object of interest in the village churchyard. 

The present church was built about 60 years ago on the site of 
the former, and is capable of accommodating about 800 people. 

In the document already referred to it is said, *^as to the right 
of patronage quhome to the samyen apperteinit, quhither to the 
King or to the Paip. It is unknawin to ws speciallie seing the 
samyen kirk appertenit to the Archedeane of Louthiane, quha 
wes ane speciall beneficed man of dignitie in this realme, quha 
wes cheiff of the chapter of the Archbischoperick of Sanctandrois, 
and quha had mony perogratives in the kirk of Scotland of auld, 
and speciallie in that poynt of patronage, as all the appellatiounes 
from the commissariatis and officiall seattis of Scotland wes to the 
officiall of Louthiane, quha was deputt to him in the said office." 

The patronage of Currie seems to have been at an early pe- 
riod after the Reformation exercised by the Town- Council of 
Edinburgh, having been conferred on that body probably by a 
grant from the Crown. Their right was, however, towards the 
middle of last century, called in question by Alexander Ander- 
son, farmer, Easter Currie, and also baron bailie on the estate of 
Riccarton. The parish having become suddenly vacant by the 
death of the incumbent, Mr Spark, who was drowned on his way 
from Edinburgh in attempting to ford the water at Slateford, then 
much swollen by a flood, the people were thrown into a state of 
great ferment, and by the exertions of the above-mentioned baron 
bailie, succeeded in obtaining their choice of a minister, when 
they called Mr Mowbray, a very able and popular preacher, who, 
in a few years, was translated to Libberton. The Town* Council 
of Edinburgh afterwards had their rights confirmed by law, and 
have exercised them ever since. 

The stipend of Currie, in the beginning of the seventeenth cen* 



CURIUE. 565 

tury, seems to have been paid by the Town- Council of Edinburgh 
as the titulars ; for in the document quoted above it is said, that 
the minister ^^hes only four hundreth pundis payit to him be the 
towne of Edinburgh, quha hes the pretendit right to the haill 
fruittis, and rentis, and teindis of the said haill parochin, alsweill 
personage as wiccarage thairof, and the said stipend payit to him 
be thair thesaurer/' 

The stipend of Currie, levied now from the parish lands, and 
including communion elements, at present averages L. SOO* The 
glebe amounts to 8 acres, which, together with the house accom- 
modation furnished to the minister, has been estimated by practi- 
cal men at the annual rent of L. 40. The manse, in the year 
1837, the year of the writer's appointment to the parish, and with- 
out solicitation from him, underwent a thorough repair, and at 
the same time was enlarged by an expensive and elegant addition. 
A place of worship in connection with the United Secession 
Church, capable of holding about 500 persons, was erected at 
Balemo in 18S9. The emolumentsr arise from seat rents and col- 
lections, and there is a very neat manse with garden attached to it 
Education. — The present commodious as well as ornamental 
school and schoolhouse were built in the year 1832. The teacher, 
Mr Robert Palmer, has the maximum salary. There are gene- 
rally about 120 children attending his school, which having for 
many years been in a state of great efficiency, has deservedly met 
with corresponding support from the public. The branches taught 
include, besides the common range of parochial education, Latin, 
French, geography, and mathematics. The advantages of edu- 
cation are very generally appreciated, and provision is made for 
the education of those children whose parents are in such cir- 
cumstances as make them unable to defray the expense of keeping 
their children at school. From fourteen to fif);een children are 
thus paid for by the heritors and kirk-session annually, at a charge, 
including books, pens, ink, and paper, amounting to L. 12 or L. 13. 
But the number of poor children, gratuitously educated, is some- 
times much larger than this ; and such is the well-known liberality 
of the parish authorities, that if any pauper families remain un- 
educated, the privation is entirely owing to their own negligence. 
There is a female school in the village of Currie, the object of 
which is principally to teach sewing. A salary of L.5, over and 
above the school fees, is paid to the schoolmistress out of the pa- 
rish funds, which, together with a free house and an allowance of 



556 E0INBURQH8HIRE. 

ff 

meal and potatoes from the family of Riccarton, help to make a 
tolerable living to a sjpgle person. 

Within the last few years a neat and commodious school and 
schpolhouse have been erected at Balerno, by means of a grant 
of L.100 obtained from the Government Board of Education, and 
an equal sum raised by subscription. The school is under the 
management of eight directors, half of them adhering to the 
Establishment, and the other half being Dissenters. 

There are three Sabbath schools in the parish : one at Currie, 
taught by the parish minister; a second under his superintendence 
at Hermiftton, taught by members of the Village Sabbath School 
Society ; and a third at Balerno, by the Rev. Andrew Tod. 

Library. — A parish library was founded by the writer, 1839, 
which has been greatly enriched by donations in money and books 
from the heritors and others, and which, both for the number 
and value of the works it embraces, may vie with any similar in- 
stitution in the country. 

Poor and Parochial i^tf7k&.-^The list of poor supplied at the 
expense of the parish of course varies according to circumstances. 
In the year 1842, there were 34 paupers on the permanent roll, 
and on the occasional 12, — making in all 46. There, are various 
smalt sums occasionally given to poor travellers passing through 
the parish, — the number of whom is considerable, particularly af- 
ter the harvest. The amount of relief afforded to regular pau- 
pers varies from 4s. to 8s. a-month. In one instance, where ao 
idiot girl was in the family, 12s. were given for a considerable ttmeu 
The amount of legal assessment for the poor in the above-men- 
tioned year was L.200, which was apportioned as follows : — 



To enrolled poor, : L.106 16 





Occasional relief, . . . 34 18 


5 


In eoala, .... 29 1 


2 


In house-rents, ... 8 8 


6 


To lunatics, . . . 21 II 


74 


In elotfaiog, .... 1 15 


04 


Educating poor children, . 12 





Salaries — session-clerk, beadle, and 




precentor, ... 29 1 


2 


Incidental expenses, . . 110 


1 



L.254 12 

The assessment is levied in equal proportions on the rate payers ; 
one-half on the heritors according to their valued rent, and the other 
half on the tenants and possessors, in proportion to the real rent 
None are assessed whose property falls .under L.6 of yearly.rent. 
An annual meeting of heritors and kirk-session determines the 



NEWTON* 867 

amount of assessment for the ensuing year, which is held on dlst 
December* The only officer for collecting and distributing the. 
poor*8 funds b the schoolmaster, who for the former duty receives 
-an allowance o! L.5 per cent., levied along with, and over and 
above the sum assessed, and for the latter duty, L.6 per annuno, 
paid out of the general funds. It may be added, that in the year 
to wkich the preceding data refer, the sum of L.3, Ids. 6d. was 
expended for the medical relief of paupers, and that this assistance 
is always given when required. 

Besides the sources mentioned above, the poor^s funds are in- 
creased by the collections made at the church doors, which amount- 
'Od to L.d6, 15s* 10^., together with L.15 intrusted to the minis- 
ter by private individuals, for the temporary aid of industrious work- 
men, who might be overtaken by disease, and distributed at his 
discretion. 

There is no saving bank in the parish, but there are several de« 
positors in the Edinburgh Savings Banks. 

Two Friendly Societies have existed for some time. One of 
them has recently been dissolved, and the funds divided among 
the members. It was but of short duration, and never could boast of 
more than sixty supporters. The other and the principal one, 
which is very flourishing, was established in 1785, and has 200 
members. Its affairs are regulated, and books audited at the yearly 

fair, which takes place in July. 

» 

JVorei 1845. 



PARISH OF NEWTON. 

PBESBTTERY OF DALKEITH, 8TMOO OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALS. 

THE REV. JOHN ADAMSON, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Namey ^c. — According to Chalmers in his Caledonia, pre- 
vious to the Reformation, there were two parishes, — Newton and 
Wymet, which now form the parish* of Newton. " .The name of 
Newton," (in former times, the spelling was Neaton or Nafon), as 
he there remarks, ^* is obvious, and seems to show that there was 

EDINBURGH. ^ D 



558 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

in the neighbourhood some old town," Whatever there may be 
in this, the new town has in lapse of time passed away as well as 
the old, if there was one, there being now only what was the man- 
sion-house when it formed a separate property, and a farm-steading 
remaining, — the church and manse having been removed, nearly a 
hundred years ago, to a more central situation for the united pa- 
rishes« Anciently, Newton comprehended that part of the parish 
which is described by Chalmers as lying ** on the western side 
of the Esk below Dalkeith," the barony of Lugton, however, being 
interposed betwixt it and the river, except for a short distance to- 
wards the south-eastern extremity ; and was composed of the lands 
of Sheriffhall and Newton ; while the other comprehended the 
lands of Edmonstone and Wymet, now written Woomet, Woi- 
met, and Woolmet. *^ This name," as the same author observes, 
" is of very doubtful etymology." 

Boundaries, (J-c. — The parish is bounded by that of Dalkeith 
on the south ; Inveresk on the east ; and Liberton on the north 
and west. It may be 2^ miles in length by nearly l^ in breadth, 
— comprehending an area of upwards of 3 square miles. What 
formed the ancient parish of Newton is generally of a uniform 
surface sloping towards the Esk ; the other part, however, is chiefly 
occupied by a ridge, which, commencing in the parish of Inveresk, 
makes a considerable rise just after entering this parish, and passes 
on by a gradual ascent to Gilmerton, where it attains its highest 
elevation. 

From the crest of the ridge there is a very commanding pro- 
spect. Owing to the want of wood, the landscape for the most 
part is very uninteresting, and its aspect is far from being improv- 
ed by the large villages of red-tiled houses and numerous steam 
engines connected with the collieries. 

Climate^ <S*e. — The climate is genial and salubrious, less rain, it 
is believed,falling in this parish and that of Inveresk adjoining, 
than in most other places, from the westerly, which are the prevailing 
winds in summer, carrying the clouds past on either side, after 
leaving the Pentlands, — constituting what is called a weather-shed. 
In common with the east coast in general, however, it is exposed 
to the ungenial easterly winds which prevail in the early part of 
the season, though the fogs with which they are so often accom- 
panied do not prevail so much as on the opposite shores of the 
Frith. We are not aware that there are any peculiar phe- 
nomena of the atmosphere which serve as prognostics of the 



NEWTON. 559 

^ivBather, but our miners are made aware of approaching changes , 
by the state of matters below ground, since they are preceded by 
an increased flow of water from crevices, and issue of gases and 
foul air from among the minerals ; and when very bad weather 
is at band, these last are emitted with such force as to make an 
audible sound not to be mistaken. 

Hydrography^ — As has been already noticed, the parish, at one 
point, touches the Esk within the policy of the Duke of Buccleuck, 
and the Powburn slightly intersects it at the north-west corner ; 
but in the parish otherwise, there can scarcely be said to be a 
perennial streamlet, which, as compared with the country general- 
ly, may be regarded as a peculiarity. The want of water, conse- 
quently, in dry seasons is much felt, and puts the inhabitants, ia 
these cases, to do small inconvenience. 

Geology^ <J^c. — The geology of this parish belongs exclusively 
to the coal formation, which renders it unnecessary to enter into 
detail, its general characteristics being well understood. The 
ridge above mentioned is traversed in the western part of the 
parish by numerous edge seams of this valuable mineral running 
in general from north, 40 degrees east^ to south, 40 degrees west, 
and with the adjacent limestone on the north, dipping at an angle 
of nearly 90. Of these there are at least fifteen of various thickness 
from two to nine feet, and at no great distance there is the out- 
crop of about a dozen flat seams which run from south-east and 
north-east to north-west and south-west, with a dip of about^lO de- 
grees. The first principal one of these from the surface, is the four- 
foot or cubical coal, which terminates about the centre of the parish, 
the greatest depth at which it has been found being about fifty yards 
in sinking. The next in succession is the splint coal, about sixteen 
yards deeper than the former, which varies from 5 to 7 feet in thick- 
ness. The third is the rough coal, generally fourteen yards below the 
splint, and varying from 4^ to 5^ feet in thickness. The fourth 
is the beefy coal, which is found fourteen yards deeper than the 
former, and in thickness varies from 3 feet 8 inches to 5 feet. The 
fifth is the diamond coal, which lies about thirty yards below the 
bed of the preceding, and about 4^ in thickness where it occurs. 
It is not found, however, in almost any of the workings of the Ed- 
monstone colliery, which extend over the south-eastern part of 
the parish. The sixth is the jewel coal seam, which is the deepest 
that has been wrought. It is of very superior quality, and lies ten 
yards deeper than the last mentioned in those places where it is 



560 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

found. Mo8t probably there are a succession of valuable seams 
at a still greater depth, but as the expense of working would be 
too great to admit of their being turned to account, the riches of 
the field have not been farther explored. 

The' depths above given apply to the field about the centre of 
it. In the Edmonstone engine-pit, which is the farthest working 
to the dip of the jewel coal, its depth is 84 fathoms ; and the 
3plint, which is the nearest to the surface, the four-foot or cubical 
coal not being found there, is at the depth of 50 fathoms. 

In general the flat seams in this parish are found extending in 
regular order : there are, however, what are technically termed 
nips and dikes, which, where they occur, occasion interruptions 
and dislocations, which have the effect of rendering mining ope* 
rations often very troublesome and very uncertain in their results. 
In the eastern part of the parish there is a dike, whose course is 
in general from south-east to north-west, which has the effect of 
throwing the above seams down to the east from ten to fifteen feet. 
About 800 yards west of the place where this dike was first disco- 
vered in the Edmonstone coal-field, there is another in the jewel 
coal seam, which may more properly be called a nip, the coal be- 
ing found nearly on the same level after the interruption thereby 
occasioned. It runs about north-east two degrees, in a direction 
to meet the one already mentioned, which in reality it is found to 
do* There are also two dikes in the Sheriffhall coal-field. The 
first occurs in the eastern part of it, where the diamond coal ter- 
minates, and runs generally north twenty degrees west. The other 
is near the hamlet of Sheriffhall, at the extremity of the parish, 
with a direction nearly north-west. This is called a revolution 
dike, because, to the west of it in the parish of Liberton, the na- 
ture and qualities of the seams are changed, and are decidedly in- 
ferior to those lying on the east, being the seams already described* 
With regard to the edge-seams, there is one found intersecting 
them a little to the north of the village of Edmonstone, which has 
the effect of shifting them some distance out of their previous 
course. All these dikes are of whinstone. 

As to the surface, there is a considerable variety of soils in the 
parish. Towards the south-east corner, the soil is light and sandy, 
which is succeeded by stiff clay. About the centre it. is a rich 
loam, which deteriorates as we ascend the ridge, the northern ex- 
posure of which is indifferent, while there is at the foot of it, in 



NEWTON. 661 

< 

the north-west quarter, strong carse land, which at one time form- 
ed an extensive meadow. 

Zoology and Botany. — Under these heads there is nothing to 
note in particular, there being no species of animals or plants but 
what is common to this part of the country generally. Game is 
not abundant, there being a want of cover; and as to farm stock, 
there is little or no breeding of any kind, with the exception of a 
few horses. As there is no waste land, there is no scope for the 
botanist ; neither are there any plantations, with the exception of 
about sixty acres of thriving young wood added to the Duke of 
Buccleuch's park from his property in this parish, and a quantity 
of 6ne old trees surrounding the mansion-house and diffused over 
the policy at Edmonstone, the seat of John Waucbope, Esq. 

II. — Civil History. 
** The church of Newton (says Chalmers) and its pertinents 

were granted during the twelfth century to the monks of Dun- 
fermline, to whom it was confirmed by Bishop Richard and Pope 
Gregory. Till the Reformation exploded such establishments, the 
monks enjoyed the parsonage, and the cure was performed by a 
vicar.'* As to Woolmet or Wymet, we are informed by the same 
authority that *' it was granted by David I., with all its rights, to 
the same monks, which was confirmed by the diocesan and the 
popes. They enjoyed the parsonage, while the cure was perform- 
ed by a vicar. These two parishes were united at the Reforma- 
tion, and the lands and churches were included in James VI/s 
grant to Lord Thirlstane, from whose descendants the patronage 
went by purchase into the family of Waucbope of Edmonstone, 
with whom it remains." After the Reformation, it was long in be- 
ing planted, in consequence, it is believed, of the benefice being 
appropriated by the crown ; and the parish for many years had 
only the benefit of a reader, to whom the vicarage was assigned 
for his maintenance. Probably this circumstance may have given 
rise to the following somewhat singular entry in the presbytery re*- 
cord, (it commences with 1582,) dlst October 1583, ^^ Quhilk 
day it was appointit to reasone in thay matters, and that with di- 
ligence, quhidder gif Newtone was ane paroche kirk or nocht, and 
also the Moorfet, quhilk things wes referrit to the eldership of 
Dalkeith be ye synodal assemblie.'' Accordingly, of date 26th 
March 1584, the record bears that ^* it is found be tryall of ho- 
nest men quha hes knawledge, that Newtone kirk is ane paroche 
kirk." 



562 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

It appears that Lawrence Watsooe was reader at this period, 
and probably the first who held the office, for, on the 24th Janu-' 
ary 1582-3, he was ^^ ordainit to gif the names of the sclander- 
ous persons within his parochin of Newton that day aucht days.'^ 

The first volume of the presbytery record is very defective, 
there being several large blanks. After 1584, in which year 
the meetings of presbyteries were interdicted by royal authority, 
it is not resumed till October 1588. Then there is only one 
half-year wanting till July 1594, when there occurs a hiatus till 
1612, after which it is complete.* 

* It may be interesting to extract from this record a part of the early notices in 
peferenee to this parish, which, as illustrating the ecclesiastical history of the period, 
may in so fiir be possessed of general interest. With this view we have extracted the 
following r— -I8th January 1592-9. ** The quhilk day it was ordainit that Mr Willm. 
Knox and Archd, Simsonef said speik with the Laird of Edmonstone annent the 
plantation of the kirk of Newtone.** 2dth January. ^^ Reported by Mr Willm, 
Knox that the Laird of tSdmonstone promisit to be cairful in the rebuilding of the 
kirk of Newtone. As for provisionc to ane minister, he shew that John Barbour, pre- 
sentit unto him be the presbytcrie, was in title given be him, and possession of vica^ 
rage and kirkland, quhilks suld find ane minister to serve the cuir-^-of the quhilk they 
are disappointit*' 

The kind and amount of instruction the parishioners received, when thus unprovid- 
ed with a minister, is shown by the following : — •* 12th July 1593. Reportit that, in 
the visitation of Newtone, first, the pareschone being inquirit bow they were exer- 
cisit, answerit, that John Barbour, an reader, did reid twa chapters, and say the oom- 
mon prayers, and lemit them the grounds of religion after the reiding. Being en- 
quyrit of his life, they answerit, in respect of his non -residence thair, that was not to 
be submitted to thair judgment And with ane consent desyrit ane minister give be 
their moyen thair culd attean unto the benefitt. John Barbour being askit give be 
sett any tax of the vicarage, deny it any tax to be sett." It would appear iliat the dif- 
ficulty hinted at to the granting of this request was found to be a serious one on the 
part of the presbytery, for, thereafter, we find this entry : 27th September IdOSi 
" The brethzene having some kirks to be plantit, and not being able to be yair awn 
moyen to do the tume, refers ye advyss of ye Synodall next, to be taken anent ye 
plantation of Newton, now fallen into ye Queen *s Majestie's band." Nothing came 
of this at the time, and, after the long blank in the Record above alluded to, we still 
find tbis object unattained. i2th August 1612. *' The quhilk day eompeird Mr 
Thomas Hoip with Mr Patrick Edmlstone, ye laird of Schiraha, and gave in arbiU 
desyring for yair interest ye pUnting of ye kirk of Newtone, as also desyring ye bre- 
thers* consent give yai suld offer unto yaim ane qualefyit man, either ane of ye ez> 
peetants of Edinr. or our own, to teich yair for a quhille till his provisioun war seen 
to, and yairefter to be admitted ; quhilk ye piesbyterie yieldit to, and ordainit ye 
same to be enacted in yair bulks.** 20th August. ^^ The quhilk day Mr Thot. 
Hop did direct Mr John Aird unto ye presbyterie, desyring ye brether to direct bHa 
to Newtone, and he, according to order, producing his testimoniale of his qualifies- 
tioune and honestie, was ordainit to adc to ye exercise ye nixt day, as also the Sabbath 
following to teich at Newtone." 10th December. ** The quhilk day ye parochiners 
of New:oun gave in ane bill desyring Mr Jolin Aird's planting with yaim at Newtottn^ 
yei being content with his life and doctrine. Unto the quhiJk suit ye presbrterie 
yealdit, and has ordainit his edict to be served ye nixt day.** After the edict haa been 
served three times, and none of the parishioners having appeared to object, it was re* 
solved to proceed to his admission, after the customary trials had been gone through. 



f William Knox was minister of Cockpen and brother to John the Reformer. 
Archibald Simson was mioister of Dalkeith, and afterwards came under the ban o£ 
the court for maintaininff the ancient liberties of the kirk, as may be seen in Calder- 
wood's Historyi anno 1617. 



NEWTON. 563 

Chief Land-owners, — The property of Edmonstone in former 
times belonged to a family of that name, the founder of which is 

Which having been done, and a reference made to the Archbishop of St Andrews to 
ascertain his pleasure as to that matter, instead of allowing the presbytery to go on by 
themselves, he answered that he would be present himself at the admission, which 
occasioned delay ; but. on the 6th January 1614, it is reported by some of the breth- 
ren who were present, that the Archbishop had admitted him on the 4th, whereupon 
they gave him the right hand of fellowship. 

Thus it appears, that, for more than fifty years after the *^ Paips kirk " had been 
abolished by law, the parish of Newton remained without an ordained clergyman, 
and that, up to this period, and, as will presently be shown, for ten years after this, no 
l^al provision out of the benefice had been obtained. 

Mr Aird did not remain long, and prc^bly had little encouragement to do so. 
On tbe28tb September 1615 he was translated to Newbattle, and, on the 2d Novem- 
ber, ^'' My Lord Clerk of ye Register directit ane letter to ye presbytery, desyring 
Mr John Melville, sone to Mr James Melville, martyre and witness fur Christ, 
sould be heard at Newtone kirk with yair permissioun. Mr Archd. Symsone was 
ordainit to shaw ye Clerk of Register yat ye young man behovetb to be heard before 
yaim and then at Newtoun. Mr John Aird appointed to teich at Natoun kirk on 
Sunday come aucht days, and try the mind of ye parlshoners how yai are affection- . 
ate. 28d November. Reported Mr Aird, yat he had taucht at Natoun and had renew- 
it ye wonted offer of ye gentilmen yair extending to twa hundret merkis, and obtainet 
some esperance of ane hundret merkis more of ye oommonaltie gif yei sail and culd 
have ye occasioun of an intrant quhom yei lyked. Quhilk day also ye gentilmen 
parochoners of Natoun directit ane missive yat yei micht have permissioun to heir 
some utheris quhom yei had not as yet hard. The presbyterie gran tit yeir suit, 
provyding Mr John Melville taucht ye next Saboth day, and ye nominat suld first be 
hard in ye presbyterie, according to yeir former act, and after at Natoun." 7th De* 
cemtier. *< Reportit Mr Jon. Aird, that ye parocbinersof Natoun wcs desyrous to heir 
Mr Andro Stevenson at yair kirk, the presbyterie, according to yair former act, con- 
sentit to ye same.*^ 1 1th January 1616. *' The parochiners of Natoun biding secure, and 
ye presbyterie surmising sundrieguid men to teich unto yaim, thochtguid yat yei might 
be more desyrous to seik some, not to gif yaim any furder benefit. " This it would seem 
had not the desired diect, and^accordingly it is thus followed up. 14lh February. " The 
brethren considering yat ye parochiners of Natoun had had sundrie guid young men 
to teich to yaim, and yet wes not so desyrous to have anv one as need were, (the vo- 
.luntary system did uot work well in this instance it would appear, j ordains Mr Jno. 
Aird to adverteis yaim, yat ye next day yei suld report yair own mynd and suit.** 

On the 21 St February three of the heritors appeared, and ** being posit quhat yai 
thocht of these expectants quhom ye presbyterie had directit to yaim, deponit, yat be 
ressoun of ye laird of Edmonstone and Sir Alex. Hay, his absence, quho had 
principal interest yair, yai could determine nothing. The brether ordeinit ane 
letter to be pennit to be sent to ye laird of Edmestoun for ye knawing of his mynd 
and dyet of coming, the convoy quhereof ye fi^resaid gentilmen promisit to tak ane 
care of, as also to speik Sir Alexr. Hay.** 7th March. ** Quhilk day compeirit 
ye laird of Edmestoun with ye gentilmen aforcmentionate, quha being posit anent 
yair resolution, promisit ye next day lo declair yair choise." Nth March. ** Com- 
peirit Mr John Edmestoun in name of ye rest, wishing yaim to direct Mr John 
Melville to yaim, on this condition, that they wald sett down with him no particular 
sow me of stipend, but that he wald content himself with yair offer and guid will 
how&uever. The brether Houping weill on all sydis without any farder urging yaim, 
ordeinit Mr John to teich yair quhile farder advysment." 20th Jan. " Mr John 
Melville being now content of ye provisioun quhilk ye parichoners of Natoun wald 
give him voluntarlie, desyrit that ye brether suld further his admissioun. Mr John 
Aird was ordeinit to signifie ye same to ye bischope.** This was done, and Mr Aird 
" reportit yat ye bischope meanit yaim to proceed ad ultimum, and then to schew 
him.** When this was going forward, Mr John Barbour, the reader, being *' con. 
vict of riot in ye kirk and sclander,** on the 22d Au;;ust, ** ye brether appointit Mr 
Archd. Symsone and Jno. Aird to see his desk reinovit by the authority of Gilbert 
Hay of Monktoun, baillie of ye Ixjunds,*' who, on the 29th, ** reportit yat yei had ac- 
quaintit ye aforesaid with ye presb>terie*s comraissioun, quha promisit yat in all 
tyme coming yei sould be commerless of Jon. Barbour.** In those days the ** baillie 



664 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

said to have come with Queen Margaret to Scotland, and to have 
got from her husband King Malcolm IIL, some lands near Edio* 

•f ye bounds" was ever readyt on application, to interpose bis auUiority as a afil ma* 
gistrate for such summary processes as the above, and for the enforcement of disci- 
pline where the parties were refraotoiy^* 

Mr John Mdville^sf trial having been gone threugb, and bis edict thrice served, 
€m the 19th September, he desired '* ane fonnall testimonial! for his admissionn to 
be given to ye bischope fer te. It was grauotit.** Ordination and induction must 
have followed though not noticed in the record ; and accordingly, at a visitation of tW 
kirk of Newton by the presbytery some time afterwards, occasioned by a complaint 
of^ his having been slandered by one of the parishioners, we find, among othet 
things, Mr John expressing his ** earnest desire to ye brethr yat yei wald have cair 
of ye piovisioun of ye stipend and of ane manse to him and his successors.** It is to 
be noted, tberefon^ that, up to this period, neither a stipend out of the teinds, nor a 
place of residence for the minister was provided in this pariah. The want of them, 
however, was greatly felt, and measures were irom time to time taken for the attain- 
ment of both. As to the former, one is as follows : — ^2Sd January 1628. '« Quhilk 
day Mr John Melvine relaiting unto ye brethr yat it was ye wiU and mynde of ye 
Prince's counsel yat ye brethr, for ye better provisioun of (fatoun, suld dcall with ye 
geotilmen of ye paroehin to see what yei will give for yair pairtes, and ye Prince^ 
grace will fill out ye rest, also bringing a letter fra ye Archbishop to hold a visits* 
tioun for yat effect. It was appointit for Tuesday next.** Having taken place^ 
** Reportit the moderator ye vidtatioun of Natoun, where Mr John Mehrine, minister, 
being removed, was approven. The gentilmen yair present being eamestlie desired 
be ye brethr, yat everie one of yaim.wald do for yair own pairtes to make up a sti- 
pend to yat kirk, and ye Prince's grace wald fill up ye rest. Answered, yei payed 
.deare for yair teyndes, so yat yei culd do nothing except yat privilie, yei wald give 
Mr John suretie for some help. As likwayes willed ye brethr to tak ordour anenft 
ye valuatioun of yair vicarage, and to deall with ye Prince's counsel," (the crown 
was patron and in possession of the benefice,) ** to make up ye rest of ye stipend. 
It being also regraitted by ye brether yat yair was not a manse for ye minister, and 
yat ye kirk-yaird had no dyke. The gentilmen were content to build both, and 
cboosed to yat effect four of yair tennents stentmaisters, &c. But in r^ard yat seed- 
time was now to come, ye gentilmen desyred a prorogation till after heir seed-time." 

Mr John Melville was guilty of various misdemeanours, on account of which bis 
conduct was animadverted upon by the brethren of the presbytery, on one of which 
occasions the record runs thus : — *^ 4th March 1024. Coropeired Mr John Melville, 
having come fra court, quho declaired to ye brethr, yat he had obtained of ye Prince 
his grace, three hundreth merks money yeirlie, and settilled by his graee'^ coonsell 
to be yeirlie paid to ye kirk of Natoun. The said Mr John being posed anent bis 
unorderlie solemnizing of marriage, confessed he had sinned against God and ye kiric 
yairin, and quhat he had done, he did upon necessitie, bdng engaged in debt to ye 
parties be reasoun of ye meanness of his provisioun. But now seeing God had pro- 
vyded him, besought ye brethr most humblie to pardon him, and promisit yairafttr. 



* That the said official also voluntarily iDterponed his authority for the attain- 
ment of these objects at a much later date, during the existence of the heritable ju- 
risdictions, the following will show :— " Acts of the Barron Court of Edmonstoun, 
holden at the tounhead thereof by Alexander Elphinstone, bailie to John Wauchope 
of Edmonstoune, the 26th October 1708.'* In the first, the said bailie ratifies and 
approves of all former acts of court made for frequenting of God's worship on the 
^bbatb day, and for obeying the church censures and the discipline thereof, and or- 
daine those guilty being convict to pay ten pounds Scots for pious uses according to 
the said acts of court. 

i* From what is said of him above as having been the son of one who was a mar- 
tyr and witness for Christ, he must have been son of Mr James Melville, who was 
coadjutor of his uncle, Andrew Melville, both at Glasgow and St Andrews, and who, 
having incurred the royal displeasure, along with his uncle, by an intrepid stand 
for the rights and priril^ges of the Presbyterian Kirk of Scotland, was driven into 
exile, an(C having been at last permitted to reside at Berwick, died there 19tb Janu- 
ary 1614, in the eighth year of his banishment. 



" NEWTON. 665 

burgb which were called after him. The family was not only of 
great antiquityy and from which a Dumber of other &inilies of distinc- 

upon no oceasioD whataomever, quhitber in baptism or marriage, to do anything con - 
trair to ye laudable acts and customs of ye kirk. Quhilk ye brethr, considering in 
sa larre as God'has wrougbt a good work be him in getting yat prorisioun to his kirk, 
is content to pardon him ; assuring him if eVr he be found to full any way hMrefter, 
they will proceed to ye suspending of him fira his calling.* The record also bears, 
that, at next meeting, ** The miMerator deUrered to Mr Jas. Robeson a band of 
ye laivd of Edmestone*» of ane hundreth merkis yeirlie to ye kirk of Natoun, to see 
yat Mr John Melvine put it;to ye register.** It is subsequently reported, (22d April 
1624,) by the aforesaid Mr James, *^ yat he had seen ye laird of JE^mestone's band 
put to ye register in Mr Alex. Gibsone^ bookes, and ane extract yairof given to Mr 
John Melvine.'* This mortification has ever since been enjoyed by the incumbent. 

Mr John Melville, upon whom the want of a sufficient provision had produced such 
bad effects, was still in want of a manse, for it appears that the promises made by the 
heritors at the forecited visitation were not redeemed. A variety of proceeding on 
this subject ia recorded in the minutes. But the manse, after" a time, was built at 
the town of Newton about half a mile from the church, and that too at the minister *S 
expense in the first instance, for at his demise, (20th October 1638,) his relict applied 
to the presbytery to have a valuation set upon it, as a necessary step towards claiming 
reimbursement from his successor, which was done, and it was reported, (8th No- 
vember,) that it was valued at 1000 merks by the tradesmen appointed for the pur- 
pose. The heritors present acknowledged ** ye expense upon ye said building to have 
been debursed of ye charges of ye said Mr John Melvine.** 

On the demise of Mr John Melville, no steps were taken by the Crown to fill up 
the vacancy, by presenting to the benefice, but the parishioners were left to provide 
for themselves, which they did, first, by obtaining supply from the presbytery, and 
then by agreeing with an expectant to take upon himself the duties of the cure, as 
appears from the following extracts : 31 st January 1630. ^* Quhilk day, at ye earnest 
solioitatioun of ye parichoners of Natoun, the brethr yieldit to supplie ye place of 
Natoun per vicet tUl ye catalogue be endtt. And appoyntes Mr James Porteous be> 
gin yis nixt day, and to advyse with ye sessioun quhat gentlmen are most fitt to be 
ruling elders in yat paroche." 12th December 1639. '* Quhilk day ye gentlmen of 
ye paroche of Natoun de^ed ye brethr to further thame with some expectant, to 
preach with thame till thair churche were provyded. The brethr desyres thame with 
one consent to set theire eye upon ane expectant, and to forsee for his provision, and 
to report to thame the nixt day.** 19th Deccnit>er. *^ Quhilk day compeired Mr Pa- 
trick Edmistoun of Womet, Mr Alex. Hay of Mookton, Mr D. Anderson of Hill, 
in name of the remanent parochioners of Natounr, and eamestlie desyred the brethr 
to be pleased to authorise Mr Robt. Car sane, one of their expectants, to teach with 
thame, and labour in the word during the tyme of the vacancie of ye said kirk, and 
they ikithfullie promise to recompenoe the labours of the said Mr Robt. to his con- 
tentment. Whereunto the brethr gladly accords, and authorises the said Mr Robt., 
and thanks thame for their caire in provyding for their churche and giving in their 
contribution to the Commissioners of the General Assemblie.** A visitation having 
been appointed for the redressing of various evils, and particularly the '* eyelist of 
Lady Melrose of Sherifhall, by a tree-trap having been erected to the pillar of repen- 
tance, whereby her sight of the minister was intercepted,** the proceedings thereat 
bring distinctly out the state of matters at the date thereof. (2l8t May 1640.) 
^' Quhilk day preached Mr Xndro Cant, moderator. Mr Robt. Carsone serving the 
cure, (upon a supplication of the parochinara and heritors of Natoun given in to the 
presbyterie before the Assemblie,) being removed, and the gentlemen heritora and 
remanent parochinan being posed if they were edefiet be bis doctrine, and if he waa 
of a good lyff'and conversatioun,-— the whoile parochinara did approve him both for 
lyiFand doctrine. Mr Robt. being recalled, the samine was declared unto him, and 
he was exhorted to oontinueu Mr Robt being posed how often he did preach on the 
Sabbath, answered once, because of the gritt distance of many of the parochinara from 
the kirk ; exhorted to preaeh twyse, espeeiallie in long dayes. The parubonars of 
Natoun supplicat the brethr to deall for a presentatiouo to the said Mr Robert The 
laird of Posso, baiUie of the stewardrie of Dalkeith, protested that nothing were done 
in pr^udice of his Majestie, padrone of the said kirk, and yet promised hts.eoncur- 
rence for lifting of the stipend to him quho suld serve the cure. The brethr desired 



566 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

tion derive their origin, but distinguished also by a royal alliancet 
John Edmistoun having been married to Isabel, Countess of Doo- 

the gentlemen heritors to agree with Mr Robt. privately anent his prorisione for serv- 
ing the cure, and thereafter to report their diligence to the preabyterie. Quhilk day 
Janet Kellie, relict of umquhile Mr John Melville, lat minister at Natoune, did sup- 
plicat for the brethr their ooncurrenoe for the anne due to the relict be the finrour- 
able custome of the kirk. The laird of Posso, (upon the desyre of the brethren,) un- 
dertakes to doe his diligence for procuring unto her a precept out of the Checker for 
lifting of hir anne out of the hands of the heritors. Mr D. Anderson and aU the 
remanent heritors undertake to answer her, according to the accustomed precept, their 
pairts jTTO rate, exceptand Mr Jas. Reth and Sir Willm. Murray. 

** The kirk of Natoun being ruinous, motion made for repairing of the same. 
The heritors appoint a stent roll, to be oondesoendit upon be the gentlemen heritors, 
and the kirk to be repaired.** Agreeably to the recommendation given above, Mr 
Robert Carsane reported, (lltb January,) *' that he had transacted and agreed with 
the parishioners of Natoun, and that there was a contract past betwixt him and thame 
for securitie of his mantinance.** — 16th July. ^^ Mr Robt Carsane did exhibit unio 
the brethren the contract of agreement betwixt him and the heritors of Natoun,** and 
his trials were appointed in order to ordination. SOth July. *'*' Supplicatioun given in 
by J. Kellie, relict of uroquhiU Mr John Melville. Mr R. Carsane removed. 
The brethren ordaine Mr R. Carsane to submitt quhat concerns the manae and 
gleib and all things debatable betwixt him and the relict, and that befor his admis- 
sioun. Mr R. Carsane continues his answer.** I3ch August. Anent the reference 
as aforesaid, &c. submitted to arbitrators, chosen from the brethren. 20th Augusu 
<( Mr Rob. Carsane, his submission with the relict this day was reported, the gentle- 
men heritors being present, and not opposing, but consenting.** Sd September. *^ Mr 
Rot. Carsane returned his edict esecut and endorsat. The parishonars and heri- 
tors of Natoun called, compaired, and to cutt short any more edicts, did testify before 
the brethren their accepting of Mr R. Carsane for their minister, requyring with 
expeditioun his admissione.** Notwithstanding, his edict was served a second and a 
third time, according to the practice in those days, ** when being returned endorsed, 
(17th September,) and the parichonars being called, compeired the gentlemen heri- 
tors, supplicating a short day to be fixed for the admissione of Mr R. Carsane to 
the ministrie at Natoun. Quhilk desyre the brethren thinking equitable, appoint 
the day eight dayes for his admissioun. The clerk appointed to writt to the pred>y- 
teries of Edinburgh and Haddingtoune for their concurrence be their commisaion- 
ars.** The ordination and admission accordingly took place on 24th September, ad- 
mission to the cure only, and not to the benefice, on a ^^ contract entered into betwixt 
him and the parichoners for the seeuritie of his mantinance.** December 3. ** Qu- 
hilk day Mr Robt. Carsane reported he had given satisfaction to ye relict of um- 
quhyle Mr Johne Melvin for building of ye manse. The brether condescend that a let- 
ter of repetition be drawen up in favours of ye said Mr Robert, quhilk they will gladlie 
subscryve.*' 4tb March 1641. ** Quhilk day Mr Rob. Carsane presented to the 
brethren ane writ for his securitie for repetition from the nixt intrant by his death, or 
transport the five hundretb marks debursed be him to Mfr John Melvine, late minis- 
ter at Natoun, his relict, for the building of the manse, quhilk securitie the brethren 
did all subscryve.** A presentation to the benefice was at length obtained, the mi* 
nute, in reference to which runs thus:^-June 3, 1641. ** Quhilk day Mr Rob. 
Carsane produced the King*s Majestic his presentatione under the privie scale to the 
kirk of Neatoune, and the brethren subscryvit to him ane collation, and ordained Mr 
John Knox and Mr Hew Campell, to repair to the said kirk at Neatowne the 4th of 
this instant, and to give him institutione in dew forme as eflreirs.** lOth Jane. Re- 
ported that this had been done. The only other extract we shall ooake, is ^* The 
condition of the kirk of Naton, made up in answer to a requisition, both by ecclesi- 
astical and civil authority, when attempts were making to have the temporalities all 
regulated by sutute. It is of date 2d November 16^. ** This kirk was an pen- 
dide of Musselburgh, and was erected in a parish church in the yeir of God 
The king wjs patron, but about seven yeirs since it was be him, with' the superioritie 
of the lordship of Muinelbrnch, disponed to the Earl of Latherdaill, who is now pa- 
trone. The number of communicants about 400. The greatest part of the parish is 
an mile and an half distant from the church, the rest within half an mile or thereby. 
The stipend is 900 raerks and two chalder of victual e, twa pairts oats, and third pairt 



NEWTON. 567 

glas, relict of James, Earl of Douglas, killed at the battle of Ot- 
terburn (1388), and daughter of King Robert IL, the first of the 
bouse of Stuart. This family disappeared about the begiuDing of 
the 17th century,* and the property appears ultimately to have 
been disposed of to a gentleman of the name of Raith, a member 
of the faculty of advocates, who leaving no male issue, his daughter 
became heiress, who was married to the second son of Sir John 
Wauchope of Niddry Marischal, which has since been the family 
name. This gentleman was appointed (1682) one of the senators 
of the College of Justice, by the title of Lord Edmonstone, and 
he leaving no male issue was succeeded by his eldest daughter. 
She was married to Patrick, son of Sir Alexander Donn, who 
thereupon assumed the name of Wauchope, and from them the 
present family is lineally descended. The late Colonel Wauchope, 
father of the present proprietor, was distinguished for philanthropy, 
and hb benevolence, as well as readiness to do good on every oc* 
casion, endeared him to all when living, and has embalmed his 
memory in the recollection of every one who had an opportunity 
of becoming acquainted with his character.-|- 

Mr Wauchope is the principal and only resident proprietor. 
The others are the Earl of Wemyss and Duke of Buccleuch. 

Parochial Register 8>*~-Ks already noticed, they were begun in 
1628 during the incumbency of Mr John Melville. All the re- 
gisters then commenced are in one small volume, which is in bad 

beir. The twa chalder of victuale and an 100 merks poyable be the patrone. The 
other 100 merka mortified by the laird of Edmeston. The third 100 merks is vica« 
rage* payable be above 40 several! persons, and ihey are little more worth in respect 
the whole parish is laboured. The parsonage teynds belongs to the patrone, except 
these of Sherifluill, which belong to the Karl of Buccleuch, who had deciwas inelusas. 
The foresaid two chalder of victuale and 300 merks was the free stipend and provi- 
sion of the said kirk, till of lait, Latherdaill was pleaset to give order to his chalroer- 
lane to mak up 800 merks yelrly untill some setled course wer takin for provyding 
the same at the sitting of the commission for planution of kirkes. There is sufficient 
of further provision of the said kirk, and that by the teynds of the parish.* 

* It would appear to have been between 1627 and 1690, for in a Keport of the 
state of the parish preserved in the Roister House, dated 1627, after stating the pro- 
portion of the stipend paid by his Majesty, it is added, ^' the rest is paid bk Sir Jhone 
£dmonstoune of that Ilk; wherieaa, in the valuation of teiud 1630, James Raith is 
proprietor of Edmonston. 

•f In a tribute to his memory inserted in tlie records of session, of which he was 
an exemplary member, it is stated that '* two school-houses for female education 
were built by him on the moat approved plan, and partly endowed by an annual grant 
for their support, besides commodious dwelling-houses for the mistr e s se s, also built 
at his expense, the one in the village of Edmonstone, the other in the Edmonstone 
colliery ; that when, in consequence of the increased number of communicants, the 
heritors had agreed to make an alteration in the seating of the church, so as to afford 
an additional communion table, he presented the session with a pair of communion 
cups, and a salver for the bread, all of silver, which are inscribed with his name, and 
will go down to posterity as memorials of his piety in connection with one of the most 
sacred ordinances of our holy religion.^ 



568 EDINBURGHSHIRE* 

preservation, and contains meagre details of the proceedings of 
session, a register of baptisms and one of marriages, together with 
accounts of collections and disbursements. It ends about 1640, 
and there is a hiatus till 1651, when separate volumes for baptisms 
and marriages respectively are begun and continued, in the case of 
the former without interruption to the present time, and in the lat- 
ter with onlj a few blanks from 20th December 1678 to 29th 
June 1679; from 18th November 1688 to 18th May 1692; and 
from 26th November 1695 to 1st June 1697, from which date 
they are complete. There is only one volume entitled '^ the de- 
functs in the parish of Newton since the 11th July 1731.*' It ends 
with 1761, and there is no other till 1828^ when a more perfect 
register of deaths and burials was begun. All these yolumes are 
in good preservation. 

A volume for the minutes of session was also begun in 1651 and 
ends with 1671 at the one side, and recommences with 29th June 
1679 at the other, on which day it is said, *^ Ninian Miln, for- 
merly reader, precentor, and schoolmaster at Bolton, was received 
reader, precentor, and schoolmastei^ in the parish of Neatone.'' 
It ends with January 1694. The nex( volume commences with 
21st November 1697, from which date the minutes are complete, 
and contain a full record of the strict discipline that, for a long pe- 
riod, was exercised for the reformation of manners, and of other 
ecclesiastical proceedings. 

Antiquities, — An ancient edifice adjoining the village of £d- 
monstone, which had been used for divine worship before the Re- 
formation for the parish of Wymet, was afterwards converted into 
a chapel, where the laird of Edmonstone received permission from 
the presbytery (1641), to have " reading of prayers morning and 
evening, providing it were not prejudicial to the public exercises 
in the church,'' and where, by the same authority, children were 
permitted to be baptized, ^* providing always the people should be 
there present at public worship." In process of time, it came to 
be exclusively converted into the burying-place of the Bdmon^tone 
family, and having gone into decay was renewed in the form of an 
elegant mausoleum by the late proprietor. The tower of the an- 
cient church of Newton, which was situated quite at the extremity 
of the parish, is still entire, and has been preserved to form a fea- 
ture in the landscape as seen from the grounds in Dalkeith park. 
The church-yard around it, where parties have long since ceased 
to bury, has been sadly desecrated by the encroachments of the 



NEWTON. 669 

husbandman, and many of the monuments removed to make way 
foe the plough. It is hoped that, to preserve what yet remains of 
the olden time, it may still be surrounded with a fence. 

In the former Statistical Account, it is said, ** the only and* 
quity here that deserves to be taken notice of, is a very high ridge, 
of a circular form, and of considerable extent, which evidently ap* 
pears to be altogether artificial. The people of the country have 
always called it * the Kaim,' a corruption it is supposed of the 
word camp." Now this is a twofold mistake, since the word Kaim 
has a well-known meaning attached to it, viz. that of a ridge some* 
what zigzag in the form of a cock's comb, which is quite charac* 
teristic of the local appearances ; and as coal pits have been sunk 
in some parts of it, it has been conclusively ascertained that it is 
not artificial Indeed, being in the form of the letter S reversed, 
and somewhat elongated, it is strange how it could have been 
supposed to have formed a camp or enclosure of any kind, since 
the extremities, instead of approaching each other, actually recede 
in opposite directions. It is true that the supposition is counte* 
nanced by a farm-steading situated at one extremity being now 
called Campend ; but, in former times, it is uniformly written £(itiii- 
tndf and was descriptive both of its locality and of the idea t/ien 
attached to the appearance presented by the ridge in question. 
How to account for its having assumed so singular a form is quite 
a different matter, as to which we shall not hazard a conjecture. 

Modem Buildings. — Woolmet House has somewhat of a baro- 
nial appearance, and must, at the time of its erection, have been 
a splendid residence for the property, though now it has come to 
be let with the farm by its present proprietor, the Earl of Wemyss, 
into whose family it came by purchase at a comparatively recent 
period. Edmonstone house, the residence of John Wauchope, 
Esq., is large and commodious, though without any great preten- 
sions to architectural display. 

III. — Population. 

Population in 1801, GoTemment cenfut, 1060 
1811, 1578 

1821, . 2150 

1881, 2272 

1834,* . 2091 

1885, . 1886 

1886, . 1762 
1837, 1728 
1841, . 1743 

* This and the foUoving were Uken by the writer personally in his annual visiu- 
tions of the parish, and he has the utmost confidence in tlieir accuracy. 



570 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

The rapid decrease, as here shown, has been owing to the state 
of the collieries, which are not wrought to the same extent as for- 
merly. The Sheriffhall colliery, belonging to the Duke of Buo- 
cleuch, is nearly wrought out ; and in that of Edmonstone, belong- 
ing to John Wauchope, Esq., a few years will suffice to exhaust all 
that can be wrought by levels from the present engines. The field, 
however, is far from being exhausted, and by a powerful engine 
farther to the dip than the present, a large winning of very valu- 
able coal may be obtained,* which would maintain the population 
to as great an amount as it has ever reached, otherwise there must 
be a very great diminution indeed at no distant period. 

The whole of the collier population, and artisans connected 
with the collieries, may be considered as living in villages, and 
amounts to 1074. To this there must be added the population 
of Edmonstone and Woolmet, (which may be regarded as form^ 
ing one village,) amounting to 145. 

The yearly average of births for last seven years is 56f- 



of marriages, . 

of deaths, 
Number of persons under 15 years of age, 

betwixt 15 and 90, 
SO and 50, 
50 and 70, 

above 70, 



19f 

61?t 
701 

406 

865 

210 

33 



John Wauchope, Esq. of Edmonstone is the only individual of 
independent fortune resident in the parish, and he is also the 
principal proprietor, having five-eighths of the valued rent After 
him comes the Earl of Wemyss, two-eighths, and the Duke of 
Buccleuch one-eighth. Sir John Hope of Pinkie is also possess- 
ed of a property of greater yearly value than L. 50, but enjoying 
it free from all public burdens, he is not rated as an 4ieritor. 

Number of unmarried men above 50, ... 3 

females above 45, 20 

Average number of children in each fitmily, . 3} 

There are two futuous persons belonging to the parish, but none insane, blind, 
deaf, or dumb. 

The collier population is subject to a peculiar disease which is 

* This is now (1645) in the course of being done. Sir John Hope has taka a 
lease of the Edmonstone Colliery ; has erected one of the most powerful engines in 
the country, which was constructed in Cornwall on the model of those employed in the 
mines there, and is engaged in sinking an engine pit at the depth of about 100 latfaeoM, 
and at the lowest dip, so that all the remaining jewel coal and seams above it may be 
won, and will probably give employment to the collier popul^ttion for half a century. 

f. This average has bmn raised by the deatlis of 1832, which amounted to 11 Trowing 
to the prevalence of cholera, there having been 257 cases, of which 67 proved iataL 
Were these deducted the number for that year would be 50, and the average fiv the 
7 years be reduced to 52^ . 



NEWTON. 571 

vulgarly called ihe black-spit, and by the faculty is dignified with 
the Greek term melanosis. It is a wasting of the lungs occasion- 
ed, as is supposed, by the inhaling of the coal-dust while working, 
and the expectoration is as black as the coal itself. Many strong 
men are cut off by it before they reach the age of forty, especially 
if they have, for any length of time, been engaged in what in op«<. 
position to coal-hewing is called stone«ivork, (sinking of pits, driv- 
ing of mines, &c). Almost all the men are affected by it sooner 
or later, so as to be rendered unfit for any active exertion for 
years before they drop prematurely into the grave, between the 
ages of forty and sixty or sixty- five. The vicissitudes of tempera- 
ture to which they are daily exposed on issuing from the pits 
throughout a great part of the year, coupled with irregular habits 
in the case of too many, no doubt contribute to this mortality. 

Though their earnings are such that the collier population might 
enjoy the comforts of life in a superior degree to agricultural la< 
bourers, yet, from want of management, this is far from being ge- 
nerally the case. In too many instances, this happens from 
excess in eating and drinking followed by the necessary absti- 
nence imposed by exhausted resources, the wages being no sooner 
got than with many they are spent in sensual indulgence, as 
they know no other. It is their custom, also^ to procure every 
thing upon credit, which makes their expenditure much more 
and their enjoyment much less than they would be, if they 
were in the habit of husbanding their resources. Instead of in- 
dependent action, according to what prudence may dictate as for 
the best, they are entirely regulated by custom ; and hence 
there is little hope of their being speedily elevated from the 
degraded condition indicated by such a state of things. To 
this, however, there are honourableexceptions, and there are 
individuals and families that, for character and the manner in 
which their households are conducted, may stand a favourable 
comparison with those of their own rank in any other sphere 
of life. When the parties are free from indolent, and, above 
all, intemperate habits, the actual condition, in respect of food, 
clothing, and other comforts, is exceedingly good, the work- 
ing classes connected with the collieries earning very good wages, 
so that it is only intemperance, vice, and mismanagement that 
render it otherwise. Indeed those who have tastes and inclina- 
tions elevated above the prevailing sensuality and vice have it in 



^7*2 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

their power to gratify them, and hence in their dress and house- 
hold'equipments are distinguished for cleanliness and comfort; 
while in the Tory next dwelling, and with an income no way infe- 
rior, there may be nothing but squalor and hardly a seat to sit 
upon. 

While the habits are dissolute, the intelligence and morality 
are low. Ignorance and ungodliness go hand in hand. Nor 
can it well be expected to be otherwise. The young, e^ea 
where not previously neglected as to their education, are taken 
from school often as early as eight years of age, to be set to 
work in the pits, and soon forget any smattering they may 
have acquired, and being, from so early a period of life, daily ex- 
posed to the most corrupting influences, nothing else can result 
but that the tastes and habits they acquire should be of a vi- 
tiated nature, and their notions of morality perverted and de- 
based. 

It is pleasing to record, however, amid so much that is unfa- 
vourable, that a marked improvement has been going forward, 
and that the means that have been used to render them as a class 
more intelligent, moral, and religious, have not been altogether 
unavailing, so as perhaps to warrant the expectation that by per- 
severance therein, still more cheering results may' yet be pro- 
educed, and a reformation be gradually effected, alike happy for 
the individual and profitable for society. These, however, are 
prevented from taking effect with numbers, who are continually 
shifting from place to place, removing whenever they can get no 
more credit, and in order to get quit, it may be feared, of the 
debts that have been contracted. This mode of life they can all 
the more easily follow, that coal-masters generally make no in- 
quiry as to character, and if they have need of workmen, give em* 
ployment to the first that offers. As fer as obtaining en^loyment 
is concerned, good and bad are on an equal footing. In this re- 
spect, it is no advantage to have a good character, while a bad one 
subjects to no penalty, so that self-interest does not require that 
the latter should be avoided or the former maintained ; and thus 
one of the salutary influences which men are subjected to in their 
dependent relations in society is rendered inoperative. This is a 
very great disadvantage, — ^must have contributed not a little 
to make them what they are^ and renders more hopeless their 
ever being raised. out of it while such a state of things con- 
tinues. 

3 



■ NEWTON. ^73 

IV. — Industry.. 

Agriculture. — With the exception of the policy at Edmonstone, 
and some plantations of the Duke of Buccleuch, the whole of the 
()arish is under cultiyation, and that according to the most ap- 
proved methods of farmings— every improvement being forthwith 
introduced, so soon as brought into notice and tested by experi- 
ence. It is unnecessary, however, to enlarge on this head, the 
system pursued in the Lothians being so well understood. The 
four shift rotation is that generally followed ; but on the largest 
farm in the parish, the Berwickshire system, of allowing the land 
to lie two years in pasture, has been introduced, it is believed, 
with advantage, and probably would become more general, were 
the fields provided with sufficient fences, which is not the case at 
present, as never being required. 

There are above 80 acres of wood in Dalkeith Park in this pa- 
rish, planted at different times chiefly with oak in a very thriving 
state, and, as may be supposed, tinder the best management. 
There is also some fine old wood in the policy at Edmonstone. 

The average rent of land is from L.4 to L.5 per acre, Scots 
measure, and it is all arable. The rate of labour is nine and ten 
shillings a-week for day-labourers, and 9d. per diem for women. 
In the collieries, labourers, such as banksmen, &c. have twelve shil- 
lings. Farm-servants who are engaged by the year are allowed 
6i bolls of oatmeal, 3 to 4 bolls of potatoes, L.16 money, and 
when they can stack and sow, &c., L.18; — grieve L.21, with the 
foregoing in each case, and in addition, a month's meat in harvest. 

The land, as already stated, being all under tillage, there is no 
rearing of stock with the exception of a few horses. On the farm 
already alluded to, where grazing has been introduced, the stock 
is purchased from year to year to be fed for the butcher ; and there 
are only one or two cows kept on each farm for a supply of dairy 
produce to the respective families. 

The leases are all of nineteen years' duration, with the excep- 
tion of the Buccleuch property, where they are limited to fourteen. 

The state of the farm-buildings is generally excellent, and steam 
power is now being extensively introduced for the thrashing-mill. 
The same, how.ever, cannot be said for the enclosures, since prac- 
tically they are of little or no benefit. The hedge-rows, where- 
ever they exist, are kept with the greatest neatness. 
■ The principal improvement, of late years, is frequent or furrow 

£DINBURGH. O O 



574 EDINBUROHSHIRE. 

draining, which has been entered on with spirit, and will no 
doubt be carried into effect wherever its introduction may be 
deemed necessary or beneficial. The expense is exclusively de- 
frayed by the tenant, as it is believed to be an improvement that 
will soon repay the outlay. As an instance, a field so drained, 
being in potatoes the year after, produced a crop of 75 bolls per 
acre. 

Quarries and Mines. — Of the former there is none, and of the 
latter coal mines only, which have been wrought in this parish 
for at least 200 years, and form its chief riches. The edge-seams 
lying, as formerly mentioned, in the north-west quarter, were first 
wrought as from their position and the nature of the ground a 
considerable winning could be obtained by a day-level, which was 
afterwards extended to a more considerable depth by a sea-level. 
The crop of the flat seams was then wrought by the same means, 
and afterwards steam-engines were erected at different parts of 
the field in succession, always farther to the dip, till the whole has 
been wrought out but what lies in the south-east quarter of the 
parish, where a great quautity of valuable coal still reouuDs to be 
wrought, but which cannot be effected to a much greater extent by 
the present engines. The value of such a field may be estimated by 
calculating from the following data : — An acre of jewel coal, the 
average thickness of which may be taken at 4 feet, produces 
.15,000 tubs of 4 cwt., or 3000 tons, which, at 5d. per cwt, or 
8s. 4d. per ton, gives L.1250 as the gross produce. Then there 
are the rough and splint seams, thicker than the jewel, but of 
inferior value. Taking the average thickness of both together to 
be only 4^ feet, and the price 4d. per cwt, or 6s. 8d. per toD> we 
have L.1125 per acre for each ; and in addition there is the beefy 
seam, of inferior value still, which if taken at only 4 feet in thick- 
ness, and at 3d. per cwt., or 5s. per ton, gives L.75Q-— in all Li42d0 
as the value per acre when brought to the pit mouth. Whea the 
four-foot and diamond seams are found, the value of course is 
considerably more ; but this does not apply to what remains to be 
wrought ' 

The coal is now all wrought on the long- wall system, by which 
means the whole is excavated without any stoops being left to 
support the roof, which gradually sinks as the workings advance, 
and by which the surface to a certain extent is affected, espedally 
as this takes place unequally and produces what are called sits. 



NEWTON. 575 

These are frequently such as to render the drainage of the fields 
worse than useless, as the water can no longer find its way for want 
of level, and occasions a stagnation which it costs both trouble and 
expense to remedy. In general, however, the surface resunies its 
relative position at a somewhat lower elevation, exhibiting the 
astonishing effects that may be produced by the labours of man, 
for thus no iDconsiderable part of the parish, at a depth of from 
50 to 80 fathoms, has, by these workings, at three several distances 
been undermined, and let down by separate stages to rest perma- 
nently at a lower elevation than it originally occupied. 

Produce. — The following is an approximation to the average 
gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish. The prices 
of grain are the average fiar prices for the last seven years. 

Wheat, 323 acres, 8 to 1 0} bolls per acre, 2887 at 24s. per bolf, £3464 

Barley, 235 ditto, 9 to 10 ditto, 2182 at 21s. 4d. ditto, 2327 9 4 

Oats, 270 ditto, 9 to 11 ditto, 2581 at 15s. 6d. ditto, 2000 5 6 

Hay, 237 ditto. 48 J 91 stones at 94d. per Stone, 1907 11 2 

Poutoes, 250 ditto, 8738 bolls at an per boU, 3982 2 

Turnips, 97 ditto, at L. 16 per acre, 1562 

Beans, 50 ditto, 5 quarters per acre, 250 at 80s. 7d^ . 382 5 10 

Gras^ 138 ditto, at J.,4, 10s. per acre, .... 621 

Gardens, 10^ ditto, gross produce, 214 

L.16,400 13 10 
Last year** working in Edmonstone Colliery, 35,520 tons, va- 

rioti8prioea» 12,564 

Ditto Sberiffball Ditto, 6,000 

ToUl yearly value of pvodttoe raised, .... L.34,984 13 10 

To the above therQ ought perhaps to have been added the 
.straw, which is regularly disposed of; but this is held by the far- 
mors to be a setoff against the manure, whicb> in consequencei 
they have to purchase^ instead of making it, by having the straw 
consumed by live stock, and no return of it has been received. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Dalkeith is the nearest market^town, which is distant about two 

miles, and Edinburgh five from the centre of the pariah. 

ViUagen. — There are four principal and two smaller villages 
connected with the coal-works ; and Edmonstone and Woolmet, 
which, from their contiguous position, may be considered as one, 
is the only village inhabited by the agricultural classes and trades- 
men. 

Mean* of Communicatiofu — The means of communication en- 
joyed by the parish are most ample. The turnpike from Edin- 
burgh to Lauder, &c. by Dalkeith passes along the west side of 
it, while it is intersected in its whole extent by that from Leitb 



^76 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

to Dalkeith, and from the latter to Musselburgh— each of these 
for a distance of two miles and upwards. There are also cross 
roads which are turnpike, uniting. these in diSerent directions, be* 
sides parish roads, which in general are kept in good repair, and 
leave nothing to be desired in point of accommodation under this 
head. 

Besides coaches between Dalkeith and Edinburgh several times 
a*day, there are a number of others from Edinburgh to greater 
distances, such as Lauder, Dunse, Newcastle, &c. which pass daily 
on the same turnpike ; and the Dalkeith Railway, which affords 
much more accommodation to the inhabitants in their intercourse 
with the metropolis, passes diagonally through it, giving opportu- 
nities for going and returning at least eight times a-day. The 
post-office is in Dalkeith. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The church is nearly in the centre of the 
parish, and very conveniently situated for the parishioners, there 
being none more than one mile and three-quarters distant ; while 
the great body of the inhabitants is within a circuit of a mile. It 
was built in 1742, (the site having been changed as already men- 
tioned,) was reseated in 1819, is in excellent repair, and rendered 
comfortable in winter by a stove. It is seated for 430, allowing 
18 inches to a sitting. The sittings are allocated among the he- 
ritors according to their respective valued rents, but it ought to be 
mentioned, that when built, the then proprietor of Edmonstone 
added an aisle solely at his expense, which, besides a gallery for 
the family, and a retiring room immediately behind, afforded ac- 
commodation beneath for the servants and immediate dependants, 
as well as collier population on his property. A gallery was also 
erected by the then Duke of Buccleuch, with the consent of the 
heritors for the Sheriffhall colliery, in addition to the share of the 
sittings effeiring to his property. It deserves to be recorded to 
the honour of the collier population at that period, that they ap- 
pear to have been at the expense of 6tting up the part of the area 
allotted to them, and in evidence of their right to the sittings, had 
tablets affixed on the walls, with the motto of their craft and the 
names of the parties inscribed, which exist to this day. Probably 
they had a part of the area thus given them as a compensation for 
what they enjoyed in the old church of Newton, in which, on ap- 
plication, as the records bear, to the heritors and kirk-session, 
(given in 4th April 1725), they obtained permission (2d May 



NEWTON. 577 

1732) to erect a loft for themselves, ^^ providing that tha posses- 
sors and users of the said loft shall be obliged to keep the roof of 
the church above the said loft always in repair at their own charges/' 
which hard, and, as it appears, unreasonable condition, was com- 
plied with, OQ their part. 

The manse was built in 1803, has had its accommodations re- 
cently increased, and is in good repair. .It stands on the glebe, 
and is about half-a-mile east from the church, the reason of which 
is, that when both were removed from their former situation, the 
proprietor of Edmonstone, whose lands surrounded the old glebe, 
had none nearer to give in exchange. 

The glebe, including the site of the manse, garden, and offices, 
extends to somewhat more than seven acres of good land, which 
lets at L. 5 per acre. The great value of the glebe, however, 
arises from the coal under it, which, after a decision of the Court 
of Session had been obtained,* establishing the minister's right 
to the minerals, was sold for the sum of L.2500. From this there 
was deducted, by the authority of the Court, the expense of pro- 
cess, &c amounting to L.193, 13s., and the balance of L.2306^ 
7s. is heritably secured on lands belonging to John Wauchope, 
Esq. of Edmonstone, by whom the purchase was made in 1815, 
at 5 per cent interest, for the benefit of the incumbent. It thus 
produces L. 115, 6s. 4d. yearly. 

The teinds are exhausted, and the stipend consists of 

Wheat, 25 boUs 2 firloui 1 peck 2| lippies. 
Barley, 52 do. 3 du. 3^ do. 

OaU, 78 do. 1 do. 2 do. 1} do. 

The average amount of the above for the last seven years, at 
the fiars prices, is L.147, 16s. 5d. There is also L. 53, 6s. 8d. 
Scots^ or L.4, Bs. lO^d. Sterling, for communion elements, and 
100 merks, or L.5, lis. 2d. of mortified money, making the ave- 
rage of the whole amount for these years to L.273, 2s. 9^d. 

Liit of Incumbents, — Allusion has already been made to Law- 
rence Watson and John Barbour, who, as readers, enjoyed the 
vicarage, there having been no clergyman ordained to the pastoral 

* By this decision it it believed ibis point was finally and authoriutively settled. 
The interlocutor of the Court of Session, which is of date dd June 1807, is as follows : 
— " Upon report of Lord Bannatyne, and having advised the mutual informations for 
the parties in these conjoined actions, the Lords, in the suspension, repel the reasons 
of suspension, and in the declarator, find that the minister has right to woik the 
coal in question below his glebe, at the sight and under the direction of the heritors 
and the presbytery, and that the value and proceeds of the coal are also to be under 
their control and management, for behoof of the minister and his successors, and de- 
cern and declare in terms of the other declaratory oonclusious of the pursuer's libel» 
and remit to the Lord Ordinary,'* &c. 



^78 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

cure till Mr John Aird, the first miaister^ who was admitted 4th 
January 1614^ and translated to Newbattle t^th September 1615. 
Qe was succeeded by Mr John Melville 1616^ who died ^th 
October 1638. Mr Robert Carsane was ordained 24th Septem- 
ber 1640, and collated to the benefice on a presentation from 
King Charles, 4th June 1641. His demise seems to have taken 
place in the beginning of 1673, and on 4th September of that 
year, the presbytery record bears that '^ Mr Archibald Douglas, 
minister at Cavers, Teviotdale, did show the presbytery that 
he had received a presentation from the Duke of Lauderdale 
to the church of Newton, and that upon his exhibiting of that 
presentation to the Bishop, he had granted him an edict, which 
edict Mr Malcom is ordained to serve and return endorsit" 
Institution followed on the 24th September, and on the 7th July 
168], he was once more translated to Newbattle. He was suc- 
ceeded by Mr Robert Baonerman, who,* in Nesbit's Peerage, is 
stated to have been younger brother to Mr G. Bannerman of 
Dunboig, second son of Elsick, solicitor to King Charles IL He 
was deprived at the Revolution, after which there was a long var 
cancy till 21st April 1696, when Mr John Shaw was admitted.; 
but not finding himself comfortable, on account, it would seeos, of 
the heritors withholding their countenance, he accepted a call to the 
parish of Leslie, and was transported, thither in the end of 1698. 
Mr Thomas Mofiat was ordained 24th September 1700, and met 
with a more encouraging reception, for the session record of 27th 
October following bears, tha,t *^ the session met, and being con- 
stituted by prayer, thereafter my Lord Edmonstown and the 
Laird of WooUmet being then present, told that this being the 
first day of the session's meetings since Mr Thomas Mofiat's 
admission to be minister in this parish, they were come to wait 
upon the session for^ the said Mr Moffat's encouragement, and 
the rest of the elders, to show that they were readie to strengthen 
their hands and to encourage them, and to concur with them in 
punishing of vice, and that they should do what was competent 
to them as heritors for the session's encouragement." Mr Moffat 
died 14th January 1743, and was succeeded by Mr David Gilchrist 
19th July of the same year. On his death Dr Mein was trans- 
ported from Athelstaneford, 12th October 1770, and served the 
cure till his death, 1795. He was a person of great worth, and has 
lefl a volume of sermons for the instruction of posterity. His 
literary acquirements procured his election to be Fellow of the 



i I 



NEWTON. 



579 



Royal Society, Edinburgh. Hb character is still venerated by 
the few survivors who had an opportunity of knowing him ; and a 
marble slab, with a suitable inscription, has been inserted in the 
wall of the church, by the side of the pulpit, as a tribute on the 
part of the parishioners to his memory. The late Dr Moodie of 
Inveresk was appointed in 1796, and, on his removal to Kelso, 
was succeeded by Mr Thomas Scott, who was translated in 1801 
from Ballingry in Fife. On his demise the present incumbent 
was presented,- 1886. 

According to a return made to the Parliamentary Commissioners 
appointed to inquire as to the deficiency of church accommoda- 
tion, &C., in December 1835, and which was prepared with the 
greatest care, there were, out of a gross population of 1886, 1414 
belonging tt> the Establishment, and 422 Dissenters of various 
denominations. In 1887, when the population had decreased 
to 1728, the respective numbers were 1365 Established Church, 
and 363 Dissenters, distributed as follows :-— 'Relief, Dalkeith, 222; 
Do., Musselburgh, 9 ; Do., Edinburgh, 10. Associate $ynod, 
Dalkeith, Mr Brown's, 78 ; Do., Mr Buchanan's, 2 ; Do., Mus- 
selburgh, 2; Do., Leith, 8; Do., Edinburgh, 15. Independents, 
Dalkeith, 6 ; Do., Portobello, 6. Methodists, 7. Cameronians, 1. 
Associate Synod Original Seceders, 8. In a note to the aforesaid 
document it is stated, in explanation, that where the head of a 
family is a Dissenter, all the children have been reckoned as such, 
though many of them, above twelve years of age, are in the habit of 
attending the Established Church. This rule has been followed 
even in cases where the mother is in communion with the latter, 
the father being a Dissenter, although the only religious instruc- 
tion and pastoral superintendence the families receive are from the 
Establishment ; and were these deducted, as perhaps in iairness 
they might and ought to be, the numbers above given would be 
considerably reduced. It will be seen, (it goes on to state,) that 
129 sittings, at the utmost, are taken in dissenting places of worship, 
which corroborates this to the extent of showing that the families 
are not provided with accommodation, especially since of these 
129 sittings, at least 41 are taken by individuals, leaving 88 for 
881. 

The attendance on divine service in the Established church is 
generally good ; but as whole pews are allocated to tenants who 
have not families to occupy them, and from which the population 
generally feel themselves to be excluded, the habit of church-go- 



^^dO BD1NBUROH8HIRE. 

ing cannot exist with many, nor be fornaed by tfae young, since 
there is only 430 sittings in all for the 1365 at present ostensibly 
belonging to the Establishment, while there is a considerable pr^ 
portion of them not available to the full extent, from their being 
particularly allocated, which, especially in reference to the young 
has long been felt as a grievance, since they cannot be encouraged 
to attend, test those more advanced should be thereby excluded. 

The number of communicants on the roll in 1835 was 363, and 
in 1837, 343. The average number that has communicated of 
late years is about 325. During the last five years, 122 have been 
admitted for the first time. 

A parochial Association was formed in 1831 tn support of the 
General Assembly's schemes for education and the propagation ef 
the gospel in India, the only ones then in existence*, and during 
the seven years that have since elapsed, L.2d2 have been collect- 
ed for these objects. In 1835 another Association was formed, 
auxiliary to the Church Extension Scheme ; and afterwards it 
embraced the Colonial Scheme. For the former there was col- 
lected in 1835, L.ld2, and for the two conjoined, in 1837, L.64. 

Educatiofk — There are one parochial, one unendowed, and two 
female schools supported by individual subscription. The parish 
schoolmaster has the maximum salary, and all the legal accommoda- 
tions, with the exception of a small deficiency in the size of his gar<- 
den, which is compensated by a certain quantity of oatmeal, at the 
fiars' prices annually, according to the provisions of the act of Parlia- 
ment. He also has an annuity of L.5 for the coal under his garden, 
or rather for leave to drive a mine through it for the working of the 
coal, payable by Sir John Hope, Bart, of Pinkie, and L.8 per 
annum for the education of four boys, according to the terms of a 
mortification afterwards to be noticed. In a parliamentary return 
made in 1834, L.60 is given as the amount of fees, and L.37 as 
that of other emoluments, including, of course, the items before 
specified, and also the session clerk's salary and fees In all, 
the master's income is L.131, 4s. 4^d.,* with a dwelling-house, 
which is commodious, and garden, surrounded by an excellent 
wall. It may be mentioned, to the credit of the heritors, that the 
whole establishment of school and school-house is on the most 
liberal scale, and in addition, a spacious play-ground, provided 

* L^ has nnce been tnortiiied by the late Mrs I^ing of Newton, the interest to 
go to the schoolmaster, and the interest of Lu50 nnore, deducting legacy duty, for th« 
mp|>ort of Sabbath schools. 



NEWTON. 561 

^ith 5twing poleS) and enclosed by a wall, is rented by them from 
the proprietor of the adjoining grounds. 

There are also Sabbath schools for both sexes, attended by 
about 300 scholars. 

The teachers of the female schools have L.25 per annum, the 
amount by which the fees come short of this being supplied by 
the family of Edmonstone, together with a school and dwelling- 
house. The emoluments of the unendowed school must be of 
comparatively trifling amount, and very precarious, from the fees 
being very ill paid. In the parish school, this is obviated by their 
being paid weekly in advance; the only way in which, with such a 
population, this could be secured. 

By the trust-disposition and settlement of Alexander Mitchell, 
baker in the Canongate of Edinburgh, the rents of his property, 
consisting of houses in different parts of the town, are to constitute 
a fund or establishment, to be called Mitchell's Establishment, 
and to be applied by the trustees therein appointed, 1st, towards 
defraying the expense of managing the trust, and of repairing and 
keeping in repair the subjects described ; 2d, the trustees are to 
pay yearly to the schoolmaster for the time of the parish of New- 
ton, the sum of L.8, or, in the schoolmaster's option, the price, 
according to the highest fiars of the county of Edinburgh, of 
eight bolls of oatmeal, at two terms, &c., and that for the school 
dues and education of four boys to be educated at said school ; 
and 3d, the surplus of the rents is to be applied in clothing and 
alimenting four boys to be educated at said school ; providing al- 
ways that the parents of such boys shall be of respectable charac- 
ter, and shall have been residenters and householders in the pa- 
rish of Newton, for three years at least before being nominated ; 
that such boys shall labour under no natural incapacity of learning 
or being taught ; that, at the time of nomination, such boys shall 
be at least eight years old, and shall remain at said school and 
enjoy the benefits of this trust until they shall respectively arrive 
at the age of thirteen years ; and, for one year thereafter, the pro- 
portion of the rents under this trust which shall have been em- 
ployed in clothing and alimenting each boy, shall be applied in 
his outfit as apprentice* fee with him, or otherwise for his behoof 
as may seem best to said trustees. The trustees are the ministers 
of Newton and Liberton, or any one of them accepting the trust, 
&c. 

The writer has found many heads of families whom he had 



682 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

an opportunity of examining, on their applying for bapti^n to 
their children, to be unable to write or read ; and while all suob 
were lamentably unacquainted with religious truth, he has 
found some so deplorably uninformed as to be ignorant of the 
very first principles, even that a Saviour had come into the world. 
Feeling it to be his duty to endeavour to remedy such a state of 
things, he in all cases undertook personally their instruction, and 
with some had to begin by teaching the letters. Where there 
was perseverance and a fair degree of ability, even these last have 
been brought to read tolerably, and to be versant in the cate- 
chism ; but where these were wanting, which was too generally 
the case, it was only labour lost, and occasioned all the more re- 
.gret that what in youth had been neglected could not be supplied 
in manhood. We shall only add, that the people are by no 
means alive, as it is desirable they shiiuld be, to the benefits of 
education. Nor does this apply exclusively to the collier popula- 
tion. It is true also, though certainly not to the same extent, of' 
the agricultural labourers, who, too surely in this respect, are fol- 
lowing a downward course in this part of the country, where there 
is much more ignorance than the public is at all aware of, or than 
would be credited perhaps, except on personal observation, such as 
has fallen to the lot of the writer in his ministerial intercourse with 
the various classes of his parishioners. 

Literature. — At present there is no circulating library in the parish. 
One such there was, at a former period, maintained by and for the 
benefit of the collier population ; but such was the effect of the en- 
largement of the works near the commencement of this century, 
whereby some hundreds were added to that class in a few yeans 
consisting chiefly of the most reckless characters, thnt the whole 
body became deteriorated; and before the writer's connexion 
with the parish commenced, some twelve years ago, the library 
was shut up, there being not a single subscriber remaining, and 
it has ever since so continued, though the books are still ex- 
tant. With a few honourable exceptions, books are neither 
re^d nor sought after ; but there are working men of the former 
reputable and intellijgent class, such as the collier population 
are known to have been a century ago, when, as we have seen, 
they provided themselves with accommodation in tlie parish church 
at their own expense, — and who are possessed of books that would 
grace any library, whether as to the subjects of them or their out- 
ward condition. 



NEWTON. 583 

Friendly Societies. — ^Friendly societies have loDg existed here» 
though, unfortunately^ it cannot be said that they are in a flourishing 
condition. The members have not been enlightened enough to avail 
themselves of the knowledge which has been brought to bear on this 
subject, such as the Highland Society's tables, to form the basis of 
safe calculation, in order tliat the contributions may be made to cor- 
respond to the risks to be run, according to the age of the entrants ; 
and the consequence has been, that, being founded on erroneous 
principles, afler flourishing for a while by reason of the great ma« 
jority of the members being young at their first formation, they 
begin at length to find the expenditure exceed the income, since 
the members, when advanced in years, consume more than the 
previous payments can aflbrd ; and when it comes to be seen that 
the funds are undergoing rapid diminution, the alarm is taken, 
and no new members enter, leaving no alternative but at length 
to dissolve the Society, as no longer able to meet its engagements. 
This is a frequent consummation, and it comes to be a great hard- 
ship that, when the members require such assistance most, and af- 
ter they have contributed for a lengthened period, it may be for the 
benefit of others, they themselves are disappointed of the benefit 
they ought to have enjoyed, if the society had been constituted 
on right principles. 

Another cause of failure is the knavery of the ofiice-bearers, by 
whom the funds in some instances have been embezzled, and the 
ruin of the society has thus been prematurely consummated. 
Even the prosperity of the societies in some cases has proved their 
ruin, for when the funds have accumulated to a considerable 
amount, the cupidity of the more reckless members has been ex- 
cited, by whom a proposition has been brought forward and car- 
ried, by the support of a majority, that the society should be dis- 
solved and the funds divided, whereby gross injustice is inflicted, 
since in such cases all share alike, however unequal may have 
been the amount of their contributions, and those who are depen- 
dent upon it from sickness or frailty are defrauded of their vested 
right in its benefits. The consequence of all this has been, that 
such Societies have come into disrepute. The writer endea- 
voured in these circumstances to have them organized on the 
true principle of every one paying for his own risk; but as the 
more elderly would thus have to pay increased rates, the at« 
tempt proved unsuccessful from the opposition of these parties. It 
is to be feared also that the benevolent intervention of the Le- 
gislature to prevent the abuses alluded to, and to induce a better 



584 EDINBUROHSHIKE. 

State of things by the adoption of sound principles, may have come 
too late to promote the interests and support the credit of such 
excellent institutions in this quarter, since what are called yearly 
Societies are now becoming very [generally substituted for them. 
These are dissolved at the end of every year, and the surplus 
funds, after paying certain rates during sickness, and so much at 
death to meet funeral expenses, are divided among the members, 
and the society is constituted anew, when the former members 
have an opportunity of enrolling them again. Should any, how- 
ever, happen to be in sickness at the time, or have fiallen into a 
declining state of health, he is rejected, and left to bear the evils 
of his condition without any alleviation from such resources ; nor 
on this plan can any provision be made for old age as in perma* 
nent societies, by the superannuated allowance which their mem- 
bers enjoy in such circumstances. The labouring population, at 
least in the collieries, receive, however, much benefit still from 
such institutions. 

Poor and Parochial Fmids. — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid for the last five years is 35, or rather that 
is the average of cases, for as there were widows with families 
among these, the number of persons would be greater. The ave* 
rage allowance to each is Is. 2d. weekly to those on the perma- 
nent roll, consisting almost exclusively of individuals to whom the 
lowest allowance is Is. and the highest 2s. weekly. Those on the 
casual roll average 2s. weekly, the highest being 2s. 6d. and the 
lowest Is. It is proper to state, however, that the poor connected 
with the collieries, (the great bulk of the population being there 
employed), have no house rents to pay, and also obtain their fuel 
free of expense, which are two very material advantages ; and far- 
ther that, where widows are left with young families who require 
assistance till able to provide for themselves in whole or in part, 
among the collier population this is at a comparatively early pe- 
riod, not only on account of the earnings of the mother, (7s. a- 
week), but because the services of the children are very early 
available, many of them being set to work at eight or nine years of 

age. • 

The annual contributions for the relief of the poor from aH 
sources for the year 1837 was as follows : — 

Ordinary collections, . . 

Mortcloths and iron covers, 
Proclamations and private baptisms, 
Voluntary contributions, » 



L.80 


14 


H 


17 


14 


^i 


6 


13 


6 


19 10 





L. 124 12 10 



NEWTON. 585 

Brought oyer, . L. 124 12 10 

Interest. . . 10 

Seat rents, 7 6 



L.iaj 4 



Regular annual assessments for the support of the poor were 
first had recourse to in 1797. For the first ten years, the average 
amount was L.21 ; for the next ten, L.52 ; and for the third, end- 
ing with 1827, L.106. During this period, the population had 
doubled, whereas the assessment had increased five-fold. In 
1826, one of ^.120 had been imposed when the present incum- 
bent entered on his duties ; and, impressed with the evils which 
a compulsory provision has a tendency to produce, especially to the 
poor themselves he proposed to bring about such a state of things 
as might materially abate the evil. In this he has been successful. 
The year after, only L.dO were required, and in the two following 
L. 60 each ; while, during these four years, a balance of L. 50 
had accumulated ifi the kirk-treasurer's hands. About the same 
time, payment was received of a legacy by Miss Jane Wauchope 
for the behoof of the poor, which, being left to their discretion, 
the session resolved should be applied to educational purposes. 
Next year the assessment was L.50, arid then it was proposed to 
the heritors that it should be discontinued, provided those non- 
resident would consent to give a voluntary contribution in lieu of 
the collections, that would have been received, had they resided on 
their properties and attended worship at the parish church. This 
was at once assented to, and the amount they agreed to give was 
equal to their proportion of an assessm^nt of L. 50 per annum. 
Colonel Wauchope, the only resident heritor, increased his in the 
same proportion, so that the collections, which, in 1831, amount- 
ed to L.45, 8s. Ipid. rose, in 1832, the first year of the new ar- 
rangement, to L.85, 19s. 6 j^d. It was stipulated also, on proposing 
this change, that L. 100 should be deposited with the session to 
meet extraordinary contingencies that might occur, such as a 
pauper lunatic to be maintained in a place of confinement, which 
occasions at once a large addition to the expenditure ; so that, 
with the legacy and saving of L. SO above mentioned, the session 
has L.250 of capital. 

Among the measures of amelioration that have been adopted, 
an Infant school has been established, as peculiarly suited to the 
circumstances of the population. The parents, to their credit, 
have very generally availed themselves of it; and, towards the 
fitting up of the school and salary of the teacher, there has been 



586 EDINBUROHSHIRE. 

paid, in 1834 and subsequent years, out of the funds above speci- 
fied, in addition to the ordinary expenditure, the sum of L.53, 7s. 

That there is here great room, in addition to all other consi- 
derations, for endeavouring to redress the abuses of pauperism, is 
evinced by the fact, that there is no disposition among the 
poor to refrain from seeking parochial relief; neither do tbey con- 
sider it as any V9ay degrading ; but, on the contrary, they seek 
to obtain it avowedly that their relatives, however able, may be 
spared from being burdened ; while these last, though in circum^ 
stances to aid them, are unwilling to do anything tp prevent their 
being recipients of public charity. 

InnSi Alehouses^ 8fc. — There were no fewer than fourteen pub- 
lic houses when the writer's connection was formed with the parish^ 
and considering that intemperance is one of the crying vices af- 
fecting the population, the reduction of their number necessarily 
formed port of the remedial measures to be pursued. The prin« 
cipal and only resident proprietor, Colonel Wauchope, entered 
warmly into these, and while generally he lent his assistance in 
every way it could be rendered available, in particular, he sup- 
pressed all of them on his property with one exception. This ex- 
ample has been partially followed by the others, so that they are 
now reduced by one-half. There are still too many, however, as 
facilities of gratification undoubtedly tend to superindnce the in- 
temperate habits that prevail. It became an object, however, of 
nearly as much importance to regulate those that reroaioed as to 
get rid of the superfluity, and this also to a certain extent has been 
accomplished. It was found that, besides being open for the re* 
ception of company on the Sabbath, (exeept during divine service,) 
spirits were retailed to all and sundry to be consumed in their 
own houses, so that when neighbours accidental^ congregated, or 
friends came to visit on that day, scenes of debauchery ensued by 
liquor being sent for and obtained in this way. In consequence, 
the younger members of families were corrupted by the evil exam- 
ple thus set before them, while the females were led to join in the 
unhallowed revelry. On a representation of this being made to 
the proprietors by the kirk-session. Sir J. Hope, to whom the ma- 
jority of the remainder belonged, bound his tenants, under the pe- 
nalty of immediate dismissal,* (in the colliery a fortnight's waming 

* This has been acted upon, and one of these publicans having transgrened the 
regulation, has been turnea oir,aodtbe house is no longer occupied as apublie-hoiMe. 
Another that was apt to be disorderly has been also suppressed by him^ so that the 
number is now reduced to six in all, still too many by one-half. 



NEWTON, S87 

is sufficient for this at any time), not only to desist from thus re- 
tailing liquor on the Sabbath, but to keep their premises closed 
altogether.^ As proprietor he had undoubted right to do this, al- 
though the license authorises their being open except during di- 
vine service, and thus the evils complained of bid fair to be greatly 
mitigated, if not altogether prevented* His Grace the Duke of 
Buccleuch likewise acted a noble part in this matter, worthy 
of his character ; for there being a feu on his property converted 
into a publio-house, where the occi^er refused to be laid under 
restrictions, on this being represented to him, he gave directions 
for its being purchased at whatever pecuniary sacrifice, that it 
might ba subjected to salutary regulations ; which has been done. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The march of Improvement has visited this parish since last 

Statistical Account was written, in many respects, both as to its 

agriculture and mining operations, which it is unnecessary more 

particularly to specify. 

If there was no other school than the parochial at that time, 
and there is no other alluded to, the state of education must have 
been very unsatisfactory indeed, since it is there stated that the 
average attendance for ten years had only been 48 out of a popu- 
lation of 1135. Such being the case, it is not to be wondered at 
that ignorance should have begun extensively to prevail, and that 
the population generally should have sunk down into a state of 
the utmost indifference as to the benefits of education, out of 
which, though matters are no longer in such an unsatisfactory 
state as to school attendance, they are still but very imperfectly re- 
covered* The contrast is equally great as to the amount of the 
emoluments — for it is stated that, for the same period, the whole 
income of the schoolmaster, *^ including salary, (then only 100 
merks Scots), school dues, and the emoluments of the session 
clerk's office," averaged no more than L.24 per annum. Now, 
while the number of scholars at the parish school is three times 
as great, the emoluments are nearly six times their amount at 
that period. 

Wo now advert to the changes that have occurred since the 
sketch of tibe foregoing* account was drawn up in 1838. Un- 
fortunately these, as regards the parochial economy, have been 
alike great and disastrous. Various circumstances contributed at 
once to increase the expenditure and diminish the income for the 
relief of the poor ; so that it was^ found impossible to make these 



588 EDINBUROHSHIttE. 

meet each other in any other way, than by again having recourse ta 
an assessment, which, in the very few years that have since elapsed, 
has risen, to between three and four hundred pounds ppr annum. 
Liberal contributors to the church collections have either been 
removed by death or have left the parish, tfbd been replaced by 
others who worship elsewhere, and consequently contribute no- 
thing, while some have withdrawn to join other communions, among 
whom is the only resident proprietor. On the other hand, the 
collieries having come to be wrought on a diminished scale, many 
of the families removed elsewhere, leaving the aged and infirm 
behind, many of whom soon came to be a burden on the funds 
when thus so little able to bear it. Last of all came Lord Ashley's 
bill excluding female labour from the collieries, which, however 
beneficial may be its operation in the long run, has proved inju- 
rious to many who were thereby deprived of their only means of 
subsistence. Now many must become chargeable that would 
not have been so before, and where widows are left with young 
families, they are not only deprived of the produce of their 
own labour, (7s« weekly,) but that of the daughters, who, on the 
old footing, would have assisted, and who are now themselves a 
burden till they can get other employment, which they cannot do 
so early. Considering also that all the families had suffered less 
or more from the operation of this measure by the diminution of 
their income, and consequently were less able to assist their rela- 
tives than formerly, the heritors and kirk-session have increased 
the former allowances, so that in no case is less than Is. 6d. of 
weekly aliment given, while there are several families who have 
to the amount of 5s., which are the extremes between which the 
allowances vary according to circumstances. By all this, the ex- 
penditure has reached upwards of L. 7 weekly, including the cases 
of those females, who having been partially disabled by accidents 
and disease, and being somewhat advanced in years, have very 
humanely had an aliment conceded to them on- the part of the 
heritors. 

The aforesaid bill has also fallen with peculiar severity upon un- 
married females somewhat advanced in life, who are unfit for be- 
coming domestic servants, and who, from their being unaccustomed 
to any other labour than that of carrying coals on their backs, find 
diflBculty in obtaining employment, however willing and able to 
work. Ultimate good may, however, be expected to result from 
what has thus been the cause of hardship and suffering. Besides 



CUAMOND. 589 

the dogoestic comfort and advantage that will immediately be pro- 
duced by the mothers remaining at home in charge of their house- 
holds, the females will no longer be subjected to the physical and 
moral evils attendant on their former condition, as beasts of bur- 
den among the most contaminating influences, but having to be- 
take themselves to service among the other classes of society, will 
be the means of bringing back improved notions and habits. 

February 1845. 



PARISH OF CRAMOND. 

PllESBYTBRY OF EDINBURGH, SVNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. W. L. COLVIN, A. M. MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History.* 
Name. — The name Cramondt or Crawmond and Karramund, 

as it has, at different times, been written, and in the Celtic form Car^ 
amanf is considered to be derived from Car,-f- or Carraig^ a rock 
Of fort J and Aman a river, — thus signifying the Bioer-Fort This 
etymology is sufficiently descriptive of the present position of the 
village at the mouth of the Almond, once the site of an important 
Roman station. The truth of this statement, indeed, has been 
fully established by the digging up of numerous imperial coins, 
medals, inscriptions, altars, sepulchral remains, pavement, and 
other relics of Roman residence. % This station, with its adjoin- 
ing harbour, seems to have had a direct communication on the 
west, with the forts along the rampart of Antoninus, which, with 
its fosse and parallel military way, terminated a little higher on 
the Forth at or near Carriden ; and also with the southern parts, 

* For this part of the Statistical Account we are indebted to Or Thomas Aitkeu« 
Edinburgh. 

t The Caer of Wales is onlj a different dialect, and is there applied to both Bri- 
tish and Roman fortifications, but chiefly to the site of the Cattra or stations of the 
Romana. 

1 Alaterva is supposed, from a disinterred inscription, to have been the Roman 
name of Cramond. Others, with eren less probability, have eonceived at to be the 
AUuna of Ptolemy. This ancient Geographer, indeed, places both Alauna and 
Alata Catira in the same latitude ; but the difference which he makes between their 
longitude might have as readily led to the supposition that Alauna stood on the Clyde 
as on the Forth. Su Ptokm. Geog,^ Lib. tt., cap. Ui, 

EDINBURGH. P p^ 



590 EDINBURGHSHIftE. 

by a great military road ruoning in the direction of Ediabargh^ 
the east end of the Pentlands, and the Eildon hills. A part of 
this Roman road towards Edinburgh could be traced about a 
century ago, though even then much effaced by the plough,* and 
small portions seem still to remain within the grounds of Cramond 
House, as lately ascertained on planting some trees. From the 
discovered inscriptions, this station appears at one time to have 
been occupied by both the second and twentieth legions — two of 
the legions employed under Lollius Urbicus in forming the ram- 
part and military road of Antoninus, from the Clyde to the Forth, 
about the middle of the second century of the Christian era. f 

Boundaries. — This parish is bounded on the north by the Frith 
of Forth ; on the east by St Cuthbert's ; on the south by the pa- 
rish of Corstorphine ; and on the west by the parishes of Kirk- 
liston and Dalmeny. Six miles is the greatest length, and about 
two its greatest breadth. 

Lying along the line of coast and the Almond, besides embra- 
cing a part of Dalmeny Park, it has in general a rich and inte- 
resting appearance, being diversified by swelling hill and finely 
wooded mansion, as well as highly cultivated and extended fields. 

Botony.— The portion of the parish which stretches along the 
sea side from Wardie burn to the Cockle bum in Dalmeny Park, 
may be considered the locality in which those plants occur 
which particularly characterize it from the more inland districts. 
The more usei\il of these, with a few along the wooded banks of 
the Almond, may be given^-distinguishing the apparently introdu- 
ced, though British, by an asterisk prefixed. 

Arundo arenaria^ Plantago maritima *Ribe8 alpinum 

Carex arenaria _— ... coronopus *Medieago wtiva 

Triticum junceum Tbalietrum minus Daucus caiota 

JuDcus compressuB Astragalus hypoglottia Ciehoreum lutybus 

* See Gordon* t Ilinerarium SeptewtHonaU^ f^nd, 1726, FoC p. 117. MaiUand alto 
daeotJOM distinct visible traees of this military way in his time, both on Echlin moor, 
south-west of Queensierry, and towards the bum at the east end of the Pentlands. A 
small part of the old Linton road at Bowbridge, overgrown with fune^ still points 
out the line of this latter portion ; but Echlin moor itself has now dimppeared in 
cultiTated fields.— See MaUland^t BUiory and AntiqwtUt of Scotland, 

f From two inscriptions, the one found at Castlecary, and the other at Cramood, 
the first cohort of the Tuncrians, from the banks of the Maese, seem also to have been 
statioocd at Cramond, and likewise to hare executed a part of this great work, com* 
monly called Graham*s Dike, which is probably only a corrupted form of the Celtie 

Grim-dige^ a war-lbsse See GordimU Itiner. Sept, and Bo^^t Military Jntlfidiiei 

^fthe Romans in Britain, 

t The tea^resd, independently of its use for binding sand banks, has been variously 
employed as a substitute for the mat-weed of Spain (Lygemn tpartum),, which was an- 
eiently in general use for making cordage both for naval and oflicrpufpos oB ^ ' quanto 
sit in usu omnibus terris naviura armamentis, machints odificationum, aliisque d«tt- 
derib ritse."— PKn, N. Hitt., Lib, siv. cap, u. 



CBAMOND. j^91 

€ochJearia officinalii Rosa rubiginosa *6alanthiu Divolii 

Beta raaritima spin(»issima *Tulipa Sylvestris 

Crambe raaritima Daphne Laureola "Narcisaua biflorua 

Ligusticum Scoticum Spinea salicifolia *Sedum album 

'Hippopbae rhamooidet *kelleborusfoetidui Cheiranthus Cheiri 

Of the AlgcB on the rocks between high and low water, or left 
bj the tide on the beach, the following may be mentioned — some 
of which are also useful in the arts, in medicine, and for culinary 
and domestic purposes. 

Chondrua crispus* Odonthalia dentata Halidrys siliquooa 

— — — — mamillosufl Ptilota plumosa Furcellaria fastigiata 

Lamioaria digitata Desmarestta aculeata Cbordaria fiageUifonnia 

■ saccharina Fucus vesiculosus Ulva latisstma 

Rhodomenia palmata serratus — lactuca 

Deleweria sanguinea ■ nodosua Enteromorpba compiatta 
alata ■ caniculatut 

The general mildness of the climate is e?inced by old lofty 
elms, oaks, and beeches, unscathed by storm or sea«breeze, 
though close on the shore ; and by the same trees still as vigorous 
in growth and stately in form, reaching a considerable ascent on 
Leny HilL On the banks of the Almond are also tall luxuriant 
trees of the Thuya ocddenialis and Pinus atrobus : the cluster 
pine of the south of Europe {Pinui pinaster) f is growing well in 
Dalmeny Park and on the sea margin under Muir House. The 
Italian rye-grass {LoUum Italicum) is extensively and successfully 
cultivated near Wardie bum* 

Zoology* — The zoology of this district naturally though indi- 
rectly points to the past, when the wild boar {Su$ aerofa) of the 
Caledonian forests was an object of interest to the Roman 4 and 
when, too, a portion of this part of the ancient royal chase 
was granted by King Robert the Bruce in the charter of Muir 
House§ — a name itself, like those of *' Kingis medow and mure 
of Cramond,*' implying a very different state of things from the 
present. 

In the course of last century, not a few instances are on re- 

* Tbis species, wben bleached and prepared, is sold under the name of IfiiH mots. 
The Zottera mariMSj also an objeet c^ interest in our manufliietures, oeours among 
the Leith rocks. 

f The Pinui pinatUr grows weU at Hafaiing near Sdkirk, some hundred feet 
higher. The Boirychium btnaria recently extirpated by Granton quarry and im- 
provementSy is plentiful on the green hills near Selkirk. 

X The wild boar occurs In the sculptured remainsj and ** the tusks of boars^ were 
found amonff the Roman ruins discovered at Castlecary, in making the canal be- 
tween the Clyde and the Forth^— jRoy*« MUit. Antiq. of Scotland, p. 200. The ** So- 
Udu$ Mter,** indeed, at a Roman entertainment had become an object of ambition and 
also of d^y occurrence, even before the conquest of Britain.— iS'ee Plm, Nat, HiaU 
lAh. vUu cap, tf. 

5 See MS, Charier^y Vol i. Signet Library^ and Act$ of Scot, Pari A, D, 1606. 



692 



EDINBURGHSHIRE. 



cord of a species of whale being stranded on the large tract of 
sand regularly exposed by the ebbing tide. In December 1769, 
a spermaceti whale {Catadon macrocephalus)* 54 feet long, was 
left by the tide at Cramond Island, and another of the same spe- 
cies and size at Hunter's Craigf in the preceding spring. 

The rocky islet called Inch Mickery is chiefly tenanted by 
sea-fowU The common tern or pictamie {Sterna hirundo) resorts 
hither in such numbers during the summer mouths, that, in tbe 
breeding season, they in some measure fully occupy the island. 

The fishing of the Almond, once plentiful in salmon {Salmo 
9alar\ was at one time uf much importance, and even gave rise to 
a long litigation ; but, being now almost entirely destroyed, it is 
to no one of any interest. 

Another object of Roman esteem, the oyster of Britain {Ostrea 
edulisW is found in beds within the limits of the parish. The low 
sledgy rocks also are covered abundantly with muscles (MytilvM 
edulis)^ and the shells of the common cockle (Cardium ednle)HTe 
thrown out in such profusion on the sandy shore at the mouth of 
the rivulet forming the western boundary that it has been descrip- 
tively called the Cockle'Bum. 

Geology, — The chief geological interest of this parish, like that 
of its botany, is along the shore and bed of the Almond. The 
series of strata here exposed belong to the coal formation, and con* 
sists of the usual sandstone, limestone in small quantity, shale, clay 
ironstone, and coal. These strata, however, are traversed at inter- 
vals by trap. Their usual dip along the shore and bed of tbe 
Almond is from 25® to 30® to the east, but both, dip and direction 
depart from this in particular localities. In the flattened or mantle- 
shaped strata at the influx of Wardie burn the coal crops out, and on 
lately forming the foundation of the embankment of the railway, 
both the coal-seam and traces of former working were fully brought 



* This wbale it figured and described under the name of tbe blunt-heeded 
lot or Phjfteter CauSon, in VU. Ix. JPMl Tran9.f9r the year 1770. 

f In e niche cut in tbe ivoe of this rock, the Roman eagle, in bold antique relief 
can still be distinctly traced. 

t Tbe partiality of the Romans for such sbell-fish and others eommoQ to our 
shores is well known. So extravagant, indeed, was their fondness for pearls, than 
even the first invasion of Britain is said by Suetonius to have been undertaken by 
Caesar with this object—*' Briunniam petisse spe margaritarum." Tbe British fwarb. 
however, from tbe Mya margarUifera^ seem eventually not to have been very highly 
valued. Pliny refers to their defects in Csesar^s votive shield of these pearls to 
Venus: and Tacitus, while stating the British mines as the real rewards of conquest, 
quaintly says of the pearls—** ego facilius oredideriro, naturam margaritiB deesee. 
quam nobis ataritiam.** TacU. Agric, cap, xU — SueUm, C. Jul Ctti, cap, c<vm.— 
hlin. Nat, HiH, Lib, ix*, cap, xxxv. 



CRAMOND. 593 

to view. The clay ironstone occurs here in thin seams or bands, and 
was once employed by the Carron Company* The clay ironstone 
balls, in the shale a little to the east, when split up, are found to 
contain caprolites and iron pyrites ; and sometimes also galena and 
calcareous spar. 

In the same flattened strata are interesting specimens of the 
Lepidodendron dichotomum and Variolaria Ficoides^ of Sternberg, 
and some portions of the shale seem almost an entire mass of ve- 
getable remains, consisting chiefly of Monocotyledonous plants* In 
the sandstone of Granton quarry two fossil trees have been exposed 
similar to those of Craigleith* Both are slightly compressed, and 
incline in the same direction in the attitude of trees sanded up, 
with the root in the lower or growing position. These are seen 
at once to be Dicotyledonous ; and, by microscopical examination, 
those of Craigleith have been satisfactorily shown to belong to the 
Ctmifermf but to that section of this great natural family which is 
found at present only in the southern hemisphere. An interesting 
fossil fruit or Carpolitej from the same place, not yet described) 
may be referred to the Cucurbitace<B of an Indian climate.*|- 

The trap-ridge of Corstorphine Hill, rising 474 feet above the 
sea-level, declines gently towards the shore in the direction of. 
Cramond island, where the same greenstone again appears form- 
ing the island* The less elevated trap-ridge of Leny Hill, to the 
west, traverses the sandstone strata in a similar manner, and 
crosses the Almond at the private bridge of Craigiehall. Different 
varieties of trap appear in succession along the shore, and these 
are often conformably interposed among the strata of sandstone. 
It may at least be a probable conjecture, that the greenstone of 
Cramond island may have once been connected with that which 
rises towards Corstorphine Hill. The relation, indeed, which 
such traps bear to volcanic rocks, whether common or submarine, 
has lately become a subject of interest, and has been particularly 
investigated by geologists of the continent,^ as well as of our own 
country* 

* In regard to this and such analogous forms, as in some of (he Cacti and Bu^utr- 
liacea^ found in connection with those of a widely different character, Martius, dis- 
tinguished by his elegant work on Palms, who carefully eiamined the botany of 
South America, thus writesto Sternberg, — ^^ Mais ce qui me parait surtout remarqua- 
ble, c^est que dans le district des diamants, au Brfeil, j*ai retrouT^ presque toutes les 
formes a mois connues de Flore du Monde primitif, reproduites et represent^ par 
des vegetauz Tivans.** — Etai d^un Expoti Geognettico-Boianique de Flore du Monde 
primitif. Par Le Comte G, Sternberg, 

•f- Palm fruits, {Palmaciiei Noggrrrathti^ Stem,) are also in the writer *s possession, 
from similar strata in the vicinity of Manchester. 

X The trap of Corstorphine ai\\ Is by Boue called Dolerite, and the resemblance 



594 EDINDUROHSHIBE. 

I 

Large blocks of -greenstone, as the ruins of once existing rocks, 
lie in confusion along the shore, and such are likewise found ioa* 
bedded in the alluvial deposit of boulder clay, gravel, sand, and 
shells which skirts the beach. Fine blue clay, fit for the purposes 
of a brick-work, is found near Granton Pier, beneath a four feet 
Btratum of ferruginous sand and graveL A bed of shells, or shells 
mixed with sand and gravel, has also been exposed in the superfi- 
cial covering of Qranton quarry* . Many of these shells are fresh 
and identical with those now on the shore, such as the Turbo 
liaareuM and NeriioideSf Buecinum LapilbUf and PaUUa vufyata ; 
while the position of this bed is several feet higher above the pre- 
sent highest tide than that of the whale skeleton found some time 
ago imbedded in the clay at Airthrey, on the opposite shores 
of the Forth. 

Hydrograpluf»''^The springs, found by digging in the alluvial 
deposit, are, from their mineral character, not always suited for 
every domestic purpose* From the sandstone strata of Craigleitb 
quarry on the boundary, small sulphureous springs issue, which 
smell of sulphuretted hydrogen, and, by exposure to the air as they 
flow, leave a whitish deposit of sulphur on the rock. The March" 
field Spa^ once of some medicinal celebrity, being now inclosed 
within the grounds of Barnton, has disappeared. 

The Almond, conveying the drainage of a district, stretching 
thirty miles to the west, has a varied bed and marked action even 
in the few miles of its course connected with this parish. At first 
it flows through the flat alluvial ; then over trap, forming a fall and 
rapid ; and afterwards through shale, alluvial, and sandstone, with 
greenstone boulders strewed along its channel and margin, and 
with insular formations, the result of such agency. 

The mouth of this river, at the junction of the greenstone and 
sandstone, with a full spring tide of 15 or ) 6 feet in the middle 
of the channel, affords a haven or natural creek- harbour, conve- 
nient enough for smaller vessels ; and if, as formerly existing Ro- 
man remains seemed to indicate, a mole once stood on the 
east bank, a much superior harbour must have been obtained. 
The harbour, however, at present is, by the changing action of 
the tide, entirely reduced to that of nature unaided by 



which such rock bears to those of the extinct Tolcanocii of the south of France—" let 

doUritet votcafOquet det environs de Saint Flours dans )e Canta]** ^be mentions as 

particnlarly striking arerj geologist. — Set Ettai Gtolagique iur VBeatte. Par A. 
JB&ue, The same trap formation also appears on the opposite shore of Fife, in Inch* 
colm, and the rocky islets stretching towards Craxnond islands 



CRAMOND. 595 

** YiToque sedilia saxo." At the iron works, indeed, about a 
quarter of a mile higher, art has been called in with crane and 
wharf to render it more suitable for their own imports and exports. 
The advance of the tide in some parts of the shore is rather 
remarkable, particularly in the neighbourhood of Granton pier. 
In building this pier the vestiges of an old sea-wail* were discovered 
within low water mark ; and not much more than half a century 
ago the margin of green turf extended a considerable way towards 
this boundary* When the softer strata have been thus stripped of 
their alluvial covering, the effect of ebb and flow, by constant 
attrition, is to lower even the rock itself, so that a foundation 
sunk a few feet in the shale becomes, in the course of not many 
years, level with the surface on the side exposed to the action of 
the tide. 

• II. — Civil History. 
Parochial Reguters. — The date of the most ancient parochial 

registers is 1636. It is alleged that the books of the parish, 
which existed previously to that period, were carried off by Crom- 
well. The records of baptisms, marriages, and kirk- session bu- 
siness, appear to have been kept with great regularity since 1652, 
and, with the exception of the oldest of them, are in excellent 
preservation. There are several very curious things recorded in 
the session books, illustrative of the severity of discipline exercised 
in former times. 

Lafidowner8»'-^T\ie principal land- owners in the parish are, 
William R. Ramsay, Esq., M. P. ; His Grace the Duke of Buc- 
deuch ; Lady Aberdour ; Lady Torphichen ; the Earl of Rose- 
bery ; Mr Hope Vere ; Andrew Rutherfurd, Esq., Advocate, M. P. ; 
Thomas Davidson^ Esq.; and W. H. Crawford, Esq. 

Mamnon- Houses, — Few parishes in Scotland can boast of a 
greater variety of beautiful mansion-houses than Cramond. Of 
these we shall briefly notice the principal. About a mile south 
from the church, stands Bamton House, the principal seat of 
William R. Ramsay, Elsq., M. P. It is situated in a magnlGcent 
park of nearly 400 acres, beautifully wooded, and most tastefully 

• If this sea-wall w.is constructed by the Duke of Argyle, as is supposed, when Ca- 
roline Park was in bis possession, it must have been the boundary of tlic siiore alxiut 
a hundred years ago About the beginning of last century, oo repairing the pier of 
Leith, a portion of n coast lini* of Roman road was discovered below the foundatiuu 
creasing the water of Leith in the direction of Cramond. — See MaHUtnttt i/ist. and 
Antiq. of Scotland^ Lond. Halt Vol. i. p. 20d. Cramond Island, though above three- 
quarters of a mile distant from the land, is at low water connected with it by a flat 
tract of landy over which those residing on the island pass and repass. 



£96 EDlNBUllGHSHIRE. 

laid out. The name formerly ^iven to this lordly mansion was* 
Cramond Regis^ and in ancient times it was one of the hunting 
seats of the Kin^ of Scotland. The present edifice was greatly 
enlarged and improved by the former proprietor, Mr Ramsay's 
father, and is now by far the most splendid residence in the parish. 

Liauriston Castle^ the residence of Andrew Rutherfurd, Esq., 
M. P., is beautifully situated on an eminence not far from the 
sea, a little north from the village of Davidson's Mains, and ap- 
pears to have been built toward the end of the sixteenth century 
by Sir Archibald Napier, brother of John Napier of Mercfaiston, 
the far-^famed inventor of Logarithms. Many alterations have 
been made on I^uriston Castle of late years, and at present the 
house is being enlarged, and the grounds are being extended and 
improved. This castle at one time belonged to the famous John 
Law, who raised himself to the high dignity of Comptroller- Gre- 
neral of the Finances of France, and whose extraordinary history, 
as detailed in Mr Wood's Account of Cramond, will be read 
with all the interest of a romance. 

Cramond House, the residence of the Right Honourable Dow-- 
ager Lady Torphichen, is situated close by the junction of the 
Almond with the Forth, and is a handsome and commodious 
mansion. The trees which surround the house are reoDark^ 
able for their size and beauty, more particularly, consider- 
ing their vicinity to the sea. Immediately adjoining Cramond 
House, stands an old tower of square dimensions, three storeys 
in height, and of massive architecture, which, tradition informs 
us, is the remains of what once was a mansion of the bishops of 
Dunkeld. 

Near the north-east extremity of the parish is Caroline 
Park, the property of His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch. It 
is a very ancient and extensive edifice. From a stone tablet in 
the centre of the north front, we learn that this mansion was 
built, in 1685, by George, Viscount of Tarbat, at which time be 
was prime minister of Scotland. It appears that this mansion 
was first of all named Kingstown, then Roystown, and that it re- 
ceived its present name from John, Duke of Argyle, in memory 
of the consort of George II., to whom, while Princess of Wales, 
his Duchess bad been maid of honour. 

A little westward from Caroline Park, along the sea shore, in 
the midst of well-wooded and beautiful grounds, stands Muir 
House, a modern edifice of elegant ornate architecture. It was 



CRAMOND. 597 

built a few years ago by Mr Davidson, the proprietor. The 
old mansion of Muir House, said to have been built about the year 
1690, with the exception of two staircases, is entirely destroyed. 
About half a mile to the south-west of Cramond Bridge is 
New Saughton, a commodious mansion, the property of Lady 
Aberdour. The ancient name of this mansion was Cammo. It 
was built in the year 1693, by John Menzies of Cammo. It is 
embosomed amid fine old wood, and the grounds adjoining pos- 
sess much picturesque beauty. 

Almost immediately adjoining the old Cramond bridge, stands 
Braehead, the property of William H. Crawford, Esq. of Crawford- 
land. The Howisons of B^a^head are of old standing in the pa- 
rish, and, from tradition, we are informed that part of the property 
of Braehead was obtained from one of the Kings of Scotland as 
a reward for service rendered by one of their ancestors, who came 
to the rescue of his Majesty when attacked by a gang of gipsies 
or robbers, and who, with a flail for his weapon, bhA fortiter pug^- 
nans^ delivered the Laird of Ballengeieh from his assailants. 

The tenure by which this royal gift of land is held is the pre- 
senting of a basin of water and a napkin to the King of Scotland, 
to wash his hands if so inclined, which was accordingly done by 
Mr Crawford at the banquet given to George IV. in Edinburgh in 
18*22. The rose water then used has ever since been hermeti- 
cally sealed up, and the towel which dried the hands of Majesty 
on that occasion has never since been used for any other pur- 
' pose. 

On the south-east boundary of the parish, at the foot of Cor- 
storphine Hill, stands Craig- Crook, the residence of the Right 
Honourable Lord Jeffrey. Viewed from the Queensferry road, 
this ancient-looking mansion, with the wood-covered hill behind, 
has a very striking appearance. 

The revenue arising from the estate of Craig- Crook and North 
Clermiston in this parish, is devoted to charitable purposes, in 
conformity to a deed of mortification executed by John Strachan, 
W. S., who died in 1719. The proceeds arising from this pro- 
perty are ordained to be distributed amongst ** poor old men, wo- 
men, and orphans.'' The trustees upon the Craig- Crook Mor- 
tification, as appointed by the will of the said John Strachan, con- 
sist of the Presbytery of Edinburgh, two advocates, and two 
writers to the Signet. 
Eminent ilfen.— -Of the distinguished individuals who have been 



598 BDINBURQHSHIKE. 

connected by birth or otherwise with this parish^ we may parti* 
cularize the following : — 

Sir James Elphinston of Bamton was a disUnguished man id 
the reign of James VL He was successively a member of the 
Bar, a Senator of the College of Justice, one of the Commission- 
ers of the Treasury, Secretary of State, and was raised to the 
peerage in 1604, under the title of Lord Balmerinoch. 
- His son John, second Lord Balmerinoch, signalised himself by 
a strenuous resistance to the attempts of Charles L to uproot 
Presbyterianism in Scotland, and at the hazard of his life this 
nobleman was the steadfast patron and friend of the Covenanters* 
He was chosen one of the assessors to the moderator of the Gene- 
ral Assembly of 1648. 

Sir Thomas Hope of Granton, one of the ancestors of the 
noble family of Hopetoun, was called to the bar at an early age, 
and became first distinguished in 1606, by his defence of the mi- 
nisters of the Church of Scotland, who were tried for high trea- 
son, for acting in opposition to the arbitrary measures of King 
James in his attempts to introduce Episcopacy into Scotland. 
By this he obtained the first professional practice, and in a few 
years acquired one of the largest fortunes ever made at the Scot- 
tish bar. He was appointed his Majesty's Advocate, created a 
baronet, and subsequently nominated Lord High Commissioner 
to the General Assembly, which met at Edinburgh, 2d August 
1643.* Two years afler, he was made one of the Commissioners 
for managing the Exchequer, and died in the following year, 
1646.f Two of his sons, Sir Alexander Hope of Granton, cup- 
bearer to Charles L, and Sir James Hope of Hopetoun, Governor 
of the Mint, and a Lord of Session, are both buried in the 
church-yard of Cramond4 

* See DougUii* Peerage hy Wood. The Commiasioners from the Westmioster As* 
■embly of Divines aent to this Assembly to consult about religion and church go- 
▼einment arrived at Edinburgh on 7th Augu>;t \64S.-~^Cruik^utnJu'' Hittofy of 
Church of SeollanA, Vol, <. Along with these were also Commissioners from the 
English Parliament.— Ser Acts of General A taemHy for 164di 

f His character is thus drawn* by Arthur Johnson in his Epigram Ad Tlwmam 
Bopantm Advoeatum regium, 

^ Lyncea mens, lingua est tibi nectare dulcior omni, 
Labe carens pectus, candidiusque nive. 
In vultu Charites, Spct est in nomine, dotes 
Quas alii sparsas, tu simul unus habes^" 
He is author of, (I.) Carmen Secularc in Serenlssimuai Carotum I. Britanniaruro 
Monareham. Edin. 1626. (2.) Psalmi Davidis et Canticura Soloroouis latino 
carmine redditum. (3.) Major Practicks. (4.) Minor Practicks. (5i.) Parati- 
tillo ex Universo Juris Corpore. (6.) A Genealogie of the Earls of Man*. 

i A well-executed bust of Sir James is still on the wall of the church, with this 
inscription : Sperando superavi — Vera effigit^s Dni. Jac- Hopai Hoptoni* miliUs ce- 
leborimiy aeUt. sue 47. An. moclxi. 



CRAMOND. 599 

John Law of Lauriston was born at Edinburgh in 1671. His 
early studies were devoted to the exact sciences, and their appli- 
cation to the subject of finance. Having gone to London, and 
there having fought a duel, arising out of an affair of gallantry, 
and killing his antagonist, he fled to escape the penalty of the law, 
first to Holland and then to Italy. Under the protection of the 
Duke of Argyle, he returned to this country ; but his plans of 
finance being rejected by both the Scottish and English Parliaments, 
he visited Paris, Geneva, Venice, and Genoa, and, on the death 
of Louis XIV., gained the confidence of the Kegent of France. 
At Paris, he established a bank in 1716, which became the ge- 
neral bank of the kingdom, uniting with it also the interests of 
the Mississippi Company. While France considered herself thus 
rising into opulence, and Law, as comptroller and financier, was 
purchasing large possessions, the real prosperity of the country, 
from the spirit of speculation, was gradually diminishing. The 
Parliament opposing the Regent, and the public indignation being 
roused, the bank became embarrassed, and Law obliged to retire 
to Brussels ; but instead of being recalled, as he expected, he re- 
ceived an official appointment in Bavaria, where he remained till 
the Regent's death. He afterwards travelled over different parts 
of Europe, visited England, was presented to George I., and re- 
turned to the Continent, where he died in poverty at Venice in 
1729.* His daughter was married to Lord Wallingford in Eng- 
land, and his brother's femily remained in France.'f' 

Besides those eminent persons thus mentioned, we cannot for- 
bear alluding to the fact that the estate of Barnton was once the 
property of Viscountess Glenorchy, a lady pre-eminently distin- 
guished for her piety and good works. 

1 1 L — Population. 

In 1811, . 1645 

1821» . . 1804 

1831, 1984 

1841, . 1U86 

IV. — Industry. 
The real rental of the parish is L. 17,529, 17s. 9d. Sterling. 

• 

* The Jbllowing epitaph was written soon after tb« death of this distioguisfaed fi- 
nancier. 

Ci git cet Bco§9ois celebre 

Ce calculateur sans egale, 

Que par les r^les de PAlgebre 

A mis France a lliopital. 
•f See Biographie UniverteUe» Hit works are published in one ▼olume 8vo, 1 790. 
The Prenoh writers on his system are Forhonnait Dam tea recherehea et cannderaiions 
Mir let JlnoHcet de France ; and Monthyon, in his work entitled ParticuHmitee et 
obeervatians tur lee MinUtret dee Finances de France depuit \660,jitiqu*en 1799. 



600 KDlNBUROHSHfRE. 

The farmers here are well known to be a very industrious and in- 
telligent class of men. Within these few years there has been a 
very extensive drainage of land. Whatever improvements in agri- 
culture have been discovered are readily adopted by the enter- 
prising tenantry of Cramond. 

The following is the rotation of cropping as practised in the 
parish : — 

I. Six course shift, for light soils. — I. Oats ; 2. potatoes, well 
manured ; 3. wheat ; 4. turnips, manured ; 5. barley ; 6. hay or 
pasture. 

IL Five course shift, for strong or clay lands. — 1. Oats ; 2. po- 
tatoes, beans, or fallow^ well manured ; 3* wheat ; 4. barley, ma- 
nured ; 5. hay or pasture. 

III. Four course shift, for land of middling texture. — 1. Oats; 
2. potatoes, well manured ; 3. wheat ; 4. hay or pasture. 

IV. Five course shift, on light soils. — I. Oats; 2. turnips, well 
manured ; 3. barley ; 4. pasture ; 5. pasture. 

V. Eighj; course shift — 1. Oats ; 2. beans, manured ; 3. wheat ; 
4. fallow ; 5. wheat ; 6. beans, manured ; 7. barley ; R hay or 
pasture. 

VI. Six course shift, when land* has been long pastured. — 1. 
Oats ; 2. fallow, limed ; 3. wheat ; 4. beans, manured heavily ; 5. 
barley ; 6. hay or pasture. 

Bents. — These are variable. One and a half quarter of wheat 
per Scotch acre (the Scotch acre being one-fifth more than the 
imperial acre), is very common. This quantity is converted and 
paid by the highest fiars prices of the county of Mid-Lothian. 
In many cases, a five or seven years' average of the fiars price is 
taken as the data for ascertaining the rent 

Wood. — There are no extensive woods in this parish ; 400 acres, 
Scotch measure, may be stated as the quantity of land under 
plantation. 

Manufactures. — Along the banks of the river Almond, and not 
far from the village of Cramond, are the iron works, the property 
of Messrs W. Cadell and Co. These works were established in 
1771, and at present ace carried on with much spirit They con- 
sist of a rolling mill, two forge hammers, steel furnace's, &c 
The principal articles manufactured are bar iron, steel, spades and 
shovels, nails, chains, &c. There is also in the same locality a 
paper work of considerable extent under the same proprietorship, 
which was established about thirty years ago. The only descrip- 



CRAMOND. 601 

tioD of paper made is cartridge paper, which is used entirely by 
the manufacturers of hosiery. The number of hands employed in 
connection with the iron and paper works above mentioned is 
about 100. 

V. — Parochial Economy. i 

Villages. — There are two villages in the parish, one called 
Cramond, containing forty-three families ; and the other, called Da- 
vidson's Mains, containing ninety-three families, better known by 
the name of Mutton //o/^-^a name, by the way, whose derivation 
has not a little puzzled etymologists. Of late years, Granton has 
become a very populous district in the parish, and there is every 
probability that, in a short time, the population there will be 
greater than in any other part of Cramond. 

Bridges, — The old bridge over the Almond was in a ruinous 
and unpassable condition in 1607, as appears from an act of the 
Scottish Parliament. It bears three successive dates of repair, 
1619, 1687, and 1776. The oldest arch is groined, and of a 
structure similar to the old arches of Bothwell Bridge over the 
Clyde, or to that of the Maiden Bridge over the South Esk* The 
new bridge consists of eight arches, and was erected in 1823. 
The road which passes along it from Edinburgh to Queensferry 
is one of the most splendid in Scotland. It was constructed by 
Mr Rennie, Engineer, London, and is sixty feet in breadth* 
There is a private bridge a little further up the river, on the 
C-raigie Hall property. It consists of one arch, and is of rough 
rock architecture. 

Granton Pier, — This noble erection, situated at the eastern ex- 
tremity of the parish, was begun in 1835, and 6nished in 1845. 
It is 1700 feet in length, and 180 in breadth, and is capable 
of accommodating a large amount of tonnage. Upon the pier 
there are ten jetties, two low water slips, eleven warehouses, 
and sixteen cranes. This splendid work was built at the earnest 
request of steam-boat proprietors, by His Grace the Dukeof Buc- 
cleuch, who employed as the engineer, James Walker, Esq. The 
contractors were Messrs Orrell and Co. The stone was sup- 
plied from an extensive quarry, the property of His Grace, situ- 
ated a mile west of the pier ; and the timber for the jetties, ware- 
houses, &c« was imported direct from Memel. The gas, which 
extends to the end of the pier, was brought by His Grace from 
Leith ; and the water for supplying houses in the vicinity of, and 
vessels frequenting the pier, flows from the Corstorphine Hills* 



602 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

It is collected in a reservoir at some distance from the pier, and 
then passes through a filter, after which it is received into the 
pipes, and distributed. The road leading from the pier to Inver- 
leith Row is one of the finest in Scotland, both in regard to its 
breadth apd construction. A branch of railway from the pier is in- 
tended to join the terminusof the Edinburgh and Glasgow line under 
the North Bridge, and will be opened in the month of August 
next. His Grace is supposed to have spent on this very spirited 
undertaking, including the splendid hotel and houses for the oflScers, 
&C. &c. a sum of L. 140,000. The pier is under the able manage- 
ment of Sir William Bain. 



• 

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604 EDINBUBHSHIRE. 

Ecclegiastical State, — Before the Reformation there was a meu- 
sal church here under the bishoprick of Dunkeld, with two altars; 
the one dedicated to St Columba, the patron saint of that see, 
and the other to the Virgin Mary. Both that church, indeed^ 
and half of the manor of Cramond, had by Darid I. been granted 
to Robert Avenel, and subsequently transferred by him to the 
Bishops of Dunkeld. In 1210 Richard de Prebeuda died while 
residing here, and was buried in the monastery of Inchcolm.* 

The present church was built in the year 1656.f In form it 
resembles a cross. It was greatly enlarged in 1811, and is now 
capable of containing 958 sitters. 

The manse was built in 1745. In consequence of the alte* 
rations and improvements which have been made upon it from time 
to time since then, it is now a very comfortable and commodious 
dwelling. The situation of the church and manse has been much 
and justly admired. Viewed from the road leading down to the 
village, at the distance of a few hundred yards, they present a 
landscape remarkably beautiful and attractive ; — the manse stand- 
ing on the foreground, — the church, with its antique tower, peep- 
ing from an inclosure of lofty planes, while trees of magniGcent 
beauty 611 the eye on every side, and complete the picture. 

The stipend, communibus ajinis^ amounts to Lf.271, 28. 8d. The 
unexhausted teind is L.2d7, Ids. lOd. The patron of the cure 
is William R. Ramsay, Esq. of Barnton, M. P. 

The gross amount of teinds is as follows : — 

p. F. p. L, 

Wheat, 50 1 1 Valued at L. 71 14 5 

Meal, . 112 3 3 3 89 8 11 

Bear, 254 1 257 19 1 

Oats, . 98 3 3 1 76 8 7 

Money, . 13 5 6 



Total Talue, L.508 16 6^: 

The glebe consists of five acres, and lets at L.5 per acre. 
Since 1843 there has been a very considerable addition to the 
communion roll of members of the church, as compared with pre- 

* It may be viewed, says Dr Jamieaon^ bb% fiirther proof of the great attachment 
•till retained to Columba «t Dunkeld. that so many bishops, most probably at their own 
desire, were interred in that island which bore his name, as faavinff been oonseerated 
to him. This is the island called Inchcolm, or St Colamba*s loch.**— JiaaiieMMV 
Bisi. ofCulde€9, p, 144. 

t The bell of Uie tower, inscribed with " Michael Burghersdyk fecit me 1619, 
.^Soli Deo Gloria,**— was restored, from the body of civil war, by Monk in 1658w 

t From Report of the Commissioners of Religious Inatruotion tor Soetland. 



CRAMOND. 1)05 

ft 

▼iou8 years ; and it may be safely aiBrmed that the church is now 
more numerously attended than formerly. 

List of Incumbents since tlie Reformation. — 1673, Mr William 
Cornwell, reader. — 1590, Mr Michael Cranston, minister. — 1631, 
Mr William King.— 1632, Mr William Colvill, resigned his 
charge in 1639 to convey a request from the chiefs of the Cove- 
nanters to the French King for assistance, — a measure originating 
.with Lord Balmerino.— 1639, Mr William Dalgleish, deposed in 
1662 for non-conformity. — 1662, Mr Alexander Young, removed 
to the Arch-deaconry of St Andrews in 1666. — 1666, Mr David 
Falconer, appointed Professor of Divinity in St Andrews in 1675. 
1675, Mr John Somerville, deprived of his benefice in 1689 for 
refusing to pray for William and Mary. — 1689, Mr John Hamil* 
ton, translated to Edinburgh in 1693. — 1694, Mr William Ha- 
milton, appointed Professor of Divinity in Edinburgh in 1709. — 
1712, Mr James Smith, appointed one of the ministers of Edin* 
burgh in 1730 1730, Mr Robert Hamilton, translated to Edin- 
burgh in 1736. — 1737, Mr Gilbert Hamilton, brother of the 
above. — 1772, Mr Charles Stuart of Dunnairn, in Fife, resigned 
in 1775. — 1775, Mr Robert Walker, translated to Edinburgh 
in 1784. — 1785, Mr Archibald Bonar. — 1816, Dr George Muir- 
head, resigned in 1843. — 1843, Mr Walter L. Colvin. 

There is a place of worship and a school at Davidson's Mains 
in connection with the Free Seceders. 

Education* — There are six schools in the parish in connection 
with the Establishment* Two of these are under the manage- 
ment of female teachers, where, besides the ordinary branches of 
education, needlework, &c. are taught. The salary of the paro- 
chial teacher is the maximum, and the amount of fees realised by 
him is about L.20 per annum. It is worthy of notice that a con- 
siderable sum was bequeathed by Mrs Baillie of Drylaw, and is 
placed at the disposal of the kirk-session for the education of poor 
children. By means of this legacy gratuitous education is bestow- 
ed annually to a very considerable extent. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — There is a legal assessment for 
the poor in this pariah. The estimate for the current year is 
L.382. The number of paupers on the roll averages 60. Besides 
these, there are about 20 who receive occasional relief. In addi- 
tion to the funds arising from the legal assessment, there are se- 
veral charitable bequests, from which the poor are annually sup-* 
plied with meal, coals, and clothing. Annual donations are also 

EDINBURGH. Q q 



G06 BD1NBUROH8HIBE. 

given for behoof of the poor by benevolent persons connected with 
Cramond, so that we may safely assert that there is no parish in 
Scotland where the poor are more liberally provided Tor. There 
are four lunatic paupers, all of whom are inmates in the asylum 
at Momingside. 

• 

May 1845. 



PARISH OF COCKPEN. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, 8TN0D OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALK. 

THE REV. WILLIAM DAVIDSON, A. M. MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — The present has been the name of the parish as far 

back as can be ascertained. It is probably of Gaelic origin. 

Extent. — The parish is somewhat of an oval form, 3 miles long 
from north to south, and 1^ mile broad from east to west. It 
contains about 4 square miles. 

Topographical Appearances. — The general appearance of the 
surface is flat It is varied, however, by gradual rises and falls, 
and is all of a cultivated rich clay soil, except a small portion on 
the north end at Hillhead, which is a soil of very fine rich loam. 
The stiff clay soil is in general about two feet thick, and rests upon 
a stiff clay subsoil ; and the loamy soil at Hillhead lies upon a 
sandy or gravelly subsoil. The parish is composed of what natu- 
ralists call the secondary or floetz class, and of that part of this 
class called the independent coal formation. We have coarse coal, 
foliated coal, and slate coal, in beds from about 2 feet to 8^ feet 
thick. The rocks between which the coals are deposited, in 
slightly inclined strata, are clay-sandstone, slate*clay, bituminous 
shale, and limestone. In some places, patches or nodules of green* 
stone are to be found. There is a bed of clay sandstone at 8kel- 
timuir, on the west side of the parish, about 800 feet above the 
level of the sea, wherein are found petrifications of sea shells. 

There is now only one coal mine in the parish, on the estate of 
Mr Dundas of Arniston. This coal-work is near the south side 
of the parish, at Stobhill. It has been wrought to the depth of 
84 fathoms 3 feet, through 15 beds of coal, of from 1^ to 3 feel 



COCK PEN. 607 

. thick, excepting only one, which is of no less than 7 feet in thick- 
ness. The rocks betwixt which the beds of coal are deposited, 
are sandstone and limestooe of from 6 or 7 to 14 feet in thickness, 
and very little inclined, only from 1 to 3^ degrees. It is expected 
soon to reach a bed of fine splint coal, which is computed to be 
5^ feet thick. 

The parish is traversed, within a mile of its south boundary, by 
the river South Esk, flowing from south-west to north-east The 
river flows within a few yards of Dalhousie Castle, a venerable 
structure built in the twelfth century, and which, a few years 
ago, received such additions and improvements by its eminent 
proprietor, the late Earl of Dalhousie, as render it a truly 
noble structure. Dalhousie-burn also, a fine stream, passes be- 
tween Dalhousie Grange and the manse, within 200 yards of each 
of them, and falls into the South Esk half a-mile to the eastward. 
The North Esk also touches Cockpen parish on the north,' and 
forms there the boundary between it and Lasswade. The South 
Esk, after leaving Dalhousie Castle, passes close by the romantic 
place where Cockpen House stood, the mansion of the Laird of 
Cockpen, about a furlong to the east of Dalhousie Castle ; and 
then it passes the singularly beautiful Dalhousie garden, the fence 
of the south side of which is formed entirely by the Esk's preci- 
pitous sandstone bank. The beauty of the river's high banks, all 
covered with wood, (oak, ash, birch, plane, thorn, elder, &c) and 
of the gardens so situated, is greatly admired. Trees of all kinds 
seem to flourish on our clay soil, except the balm of Gilead firs. 
These all die about their sixteenth or seventeenth year. 

II. — Civil History. 

Land'oumers. — The late Earl of Dalhousie, who was eminent 
in the military or civil service of his country, was bom in this pa- 
rish : and there at present reside in it John Craig, Esq. of Pres- 
tonholm ; and, during the summer months, John Tod, Esq. of 
KirkhitI, W« S. Besides these two, the parish is the property of 
the following noblemen and gentlemen : the Right Honourable 
the Earl of Dalhousie, who has nearly the half of the parish ; the 
Most Noble the Marquis of Lothian ; Mrs Dundas of Polton ; 
Robert Dundas, Esq. of Arniston, each of whom possess nearly 
one-sixth of the parish ; and Robert Wardlaw Ramsay, Esq. of 
Whitehill, who has only about 40 acres. , 

Parochial Registers. — The register of marriages and baptisms 
has, with a few exceptions, been regularly kept from the year 1695 



608 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

to the present time. It has been, for many years past, most care- 
fully attended to* 

Modem Buildinffs, — In the year I8I69 a new manse was built 
by the heritors; and in 1820, an elegant new church, in its im* 
mediate neighbourhood ; both most conveniently situated in the 
centre of the parish. 

Maiuion^Hotues. — There are no mansion-houses in the parish, 
except Dalhousie Castle and Hillhead. Lord Dalhousie, more 
than fifty years ago, purchased the old mansion«hou&e and farm 
of Cockpen from Baron Cockbum. 

Mills. — There are two mills, manufactories of flax-yarn and 
paper, the former at Prestonholm, on the South Esk^ and the 
latter at St Leonard's, in the immediate neighbourhood of Lass- 
wade on the North Esk. 

III. — Population. 
It is stated in the former Account, that, " by a list, found among 

the papers of the then incumbent, it appears that, in 1749, there 
were in the parish 160 families, containing 229 males and 349 
females, or 648 individuals ; of which 454 were above, and 194 
under ten years of age. The return to Dr Webster was 640 
souls." It is added, that, in 1790, there were 288 families, and 
1123 individuals. By the census of 1811, the population was 
2000; but in 1821, it was 75 short of that number, owing pro- 
bably to the removal of some colliers. 

Soon, however, after that period, Mr Craig, proprietor of the 
flax-mill at Prestonholm, brought about 200 additional hands to • 
his work^ which raised the number in the parish above 2000. 
But on the burning of the same mill, which unfortuately happen- 
ed on the 27th of February 1827, 567 persons left the parish. 
In 1814, there were in the parish 382 families, and 1760 in- 
dividuals, of whom 796 were males, 972 females; 319 under 
seven years of age, and 20 above seventy. The average number 
of births for the last seven years has been 50, and of marriages 18. 
No register of the deaths has been kept^ 

By the census of 1841, there were 505 families, and a popula- 
tion of 2345, which has been considerably increased since that 
year. 

IV. — Industry. 
There are at present in the parish 10 farmers who keep ser- 
vants and cottars under them. The number of these farm-ser- 
vants and cottars is 100. There are 10 persons engaged in re- 



COCKPEN* 609 

tail shop-keeping ; 300 at least in manufactures ; and 12 trades* 
men. There are only 4 male household servants, and 86 female 
ones. The parish is all arable and under tillage, excepting the 
immediate banks of the rivers and burns, and the policy around 
Dalhousie Castle, &c. Deducting these and plantations, and the 
steadings of houses, &c., it is computed that there is about one- 
eighth of the parish not under tillage. The number of arable 
acres, therefore, is about 2200. Some of the farms are above 
400 acres in extent; but most of them not half so large; and 
some of the rents are L. 8, 5s. per acre, others not half that 
sum. 

Leases* — The duration of leases is usually nineteen years. The 
farms are all enclosed by thorn hedges ; and the usual course of 
tillage is summer-fallow ; then a crop of wheat ; then peas, some- 
times turnips or potatoes ; then a crop of oats or barley, along 
with which the ground is sown down with grass and clover for a 
year or two. It is then ploughed again and sown with oats, and 
afterwards put into fallow. There is, no doubt, far more grain 
produced in the parish than is consumed in it. Dalkeith market, 
held weekly throughout the year, affords a convenient place of 
sale. The rental is about L. 4000. 

Manufactures. — There are two kinds of manufacture carried 
on, flax-yarn and paper. The first is at Prestonholm, where 214 
men, women, and children above ten years of age are employed. 
At the paper-mill at St Leonard's 18 men and 35 women are em- 
ployed. Three-fourths of the paper made is sent to London, and 
the remainder is sold in Edinburgh and Glasgow, 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
The nearest market-town is Dalkeith, at the distance of two 

miles and a quarter from the centre of the parish ; and there are 

three villages, Prestonholm, Bonnyrigg, and Westmill or St 

Leonard's. 

Abundant means of communication are enjoyed. A turnpike 
road from Edinburgh towards Carlisle passes through the middle 
of the parish ; one from Dalkeith towards Peebles ; and another 
from the same place towards Noblehouse. There are three toll- 
bars in the parish ; and three bridges over the South Esk, all in 
good order. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is in a convenient situ- 
ation for the people, none of whose houses are more than two 
miles distant from it. It was built in 1820, and is in excellent 



610 EDINBUROHSHIRE. 

repair : it is much admired for its simple elegance and cotiyenieoce 
of structure ; and it accommodates easily 760 persons. There 
are free sittings for about 300. Indeed^ only three families pay 
seat-rents. The manse, as before stated, was built in 1816, and 
is in good repair* The glebe is contiguous to it, and consists of 
7 acres and 8 roods Scotch, which let at L. 3 per acra The 
stipend consists of 53 bolls, 3 pecks, and |ths of a lippy of bear; 
86 bolls, 1 firlot, 2 pecks, and Ifthi lippy of oatmeal ; and ISS 
pounds Scots (L* 10, 13s. 4d.) in money. The teinds are ex- 
hausted ; and the minister has, since the year 1824, the sum of 
L. 24, 4s. 10^. annually from the Exchequer. The number of 
communicants at last communion was 316. 

There is a Free church in the village of Bonnyrigg, about a 
mile from the parish church. In the same village also there are 
a Morrisonian meeting-house and a Baptist meetmg-house, both 
opened during the past year. The parish church was never better 
attended. 

Education. — There is one parochial school, with the legal 
accommodations. The number of scholars usually attending it is 
from 90 to 100, and the branches taught are, English, writing, 
arithmetic, mensuration, book-keeping, Latin, mathematics, and 
the principles of religion. The schoolmaster has the nfkximum 
salary and the following fees : per month for English reading, 
lOd.; writing, Is.; arithmetic. Is. 2d.; mensuration, book-keep- 
ing, or Latin, 1& 8d. There are 4 unendowed schools ; one of 
them generally attended by about 60 or 70 scholars; another by 
about 50 ; the third by about 30, and the fourth by about 20. 

Poor. — The average number of persons that receive parish aid 
regularly is 57; and the average sum they receive is Is. 6d. a-week. 
Many, however, deceive occasional relief, without becoming regu- 
lar paupers. The annual amount of church collections is about 
L. 40 ; and this is kept a separate fund from the assessment to 
supply a different class of poor. We have an assessment of about 
L. 300 a-year. I 

Alehouses. — There are 9 public-houses in the parish, and cer- 
tainly they have rather a bad effect upon morals; but they are all 
decently kept. 

FueL — Coals are the only kind of fuel used, and they are all 
procured in the parish or its immediate neighbourhood, at the rate 
of 3d» per cwt. 

July 1845. 



PARISH OF CARRINGTON.* 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE, 

THE REV. JOHN LOCHTIE, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name, — The origiual name of this parish seems to have been 
KariDgton or Kerington. As far back as the year 1704, it seems 
to have received the name of Primrose, most probably from the 
family of that name having acquired a very large proportion of 
the landed property which it contains. The name iq the title as 
above seems to have been fixed for a long time, and is now the 
only designation admitted into records and other public documents. 
There is a record dated November 6, 1653, entituled, Register of 
the kirk discipline of Karingtoun. 

Extent^ 4-c — At the extreme points, its length from east to west 
is about 8^ and its breadth, from south to north, 2 miles. 

Boundaries. — On the north-east it is bounded by Cockpen ; 
north and west, by Lasswade ; west by Penicuick ; on the south 
and east, by Temple and Borthwick, separated by the South £sk 
winding along the romantic and finely wooded grounds of Rosebery 
and Arniston. 

Climate^ Soil^ Cultivation^ and Proc^i/oe.— About the village of 
Carrington, the soil is good and dry. But towards the west part 
of the parish, the land has not, till within the last twenty years, 
undergone much improvement. It has all now been under the 
plough, except about 100 acres of moss. Ere long, this will 
also disappear by draining. It produces all kinds of grain. 

II. — Civil History. 
Land'Owners. — These are, the Earl of Rosebery and Robert Bal« 

four Wardlaw Ramsay, Esq. Robert Dundas, Esq. of Arniston, in 
the neighbouring parish of Temple, possesses part of the lands in 
this parish along the banks of the South Esk, including Carring- 
ton mill and lands. 

Mansion^ Houses, — The only mansion-house is that of Mr Ram- 
say, which is situated towards the north boundary of the parish, in 

* From a Correspondent. 



612 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

the vicinity of Roslin and Hawthornden. It was built by the pre- 
sent proprietor, being 6nished so lately as 1844. The building 
is of noble dimensions and strikingly elegant appearance. The 
style of architecture is of the reign of James VI. : and the erec- 
tion is at once a monument of the refined taste of its proprietor, 
and the eminent architectural abilities of Wm. Bum, Esq. . 

Parochial Byisters.'^The registers of births, marriages, and 
deaths, minutes of session, are as follows : — 1. Register for the kirk 
discipline of Karrington^ November 6, 1653, ends February 28, 
1658; then recommences Carringtoune, November 6, 1659, and 
ends December 22, 166 1. At this date there is the following note 
in a postscript to the minute : — *^ In the beginning of the nixtyeare, 
and the first month thereof, all kirk-sessions, presbyteries, synods, 
&c. were, by Act of Parliament, discharged till they were autho- 
rised by the bishops ; whereupon all the tyme that the foresaid Mr 
James Kpatrick was permitted to continue in the exercise of 
the ministrie at the said kirk of Carringtoune, which was until 
November 1662, there were no more sessions keeped.'' The re- 
gister recommences May 3, 1663, and is kept apparently with 
great care till June 18, 1671. Then follows an interruption till 
2d August 1676, from which time, till November 25, 1683, the 
record seems complete. 2. The acts and proceedmgs of the ses- 
sion of Carringtoune, April 13, 1695, till June 5, 169& a The 
acts andproceedingsof the paroch of Primrose, from|31st July 17099 
to January 3, 1731. Thence to the present time* The regis- 
ters of baptisms and marriages begin about November 1653, and 
are continued to the present time, with several interruptions as in 
the fore-mentioned records. The register of deaths commences 
in 1698, and is continued to 1731. In 1744 it is resumed. There 
is an interruption from 1799 till 1815. 

III. — Population. 

AmouDt of population in 1801, . 40§ 

1811, . .456 

1821, . 560 

1831, . . .661 

1841, 616 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture, — Average rent of land per acre, L. 1, 2s. 6d. 
Valued rent of the parish, L.2830 Scots. Real rent, L.3159, 5s. 
Sterling. 

Recent Agricultural Improvements, — On the farm of Carringtoa 
Barns, the present tenant has given much encouragement towards 



CARRINGTON. 618 

emulation in ploughing, building of stacks, Sec The whole farm 
is drained, the good effects of which are manifest from the very 
heavy crops of oats, barley, &c. on the ground. Many other 
farms on the Earl of Rosebery's estate are also partially, and as 
may be expected, will ere long be thoroughly drained, where re- 
quired. Of late years, the whole surface has undergone a great 
change towards improvement. On the estate of Whitehill, also, 
the greatest attention has been given to furrow draining and other 
agricultural improvements. Mr Ramsay, who is resident, sets a 
praiseworthy example by the mode of husbandry practised on his 
home farm, and by the encouragement of his tenantry. 

The number of acres cultiTated, about 3250 

oncultiTated, mote, 110 

under wood, about 400 

V. — Parochial Economt. 
Ecdesiastical iSto^e.— -The number of the parishioners attached 

to the Established Church is 483. The stipend amounts to 

L.161, Is. 6d. The manse was built in the year 1756. The 

value of the glebe is about L.20. 

Education. — There is only the parochial school in the parish. 
The salary the maximum, and school fees may amount to L. 10 
per annum* 

Poor, — The average number of poor of all classes is about 16. 
The average amount of collections for their behoof L. 4, of other 
voluntary contributions L. 16, of assessment about L« 40. 

July 1845. 



CITY OF EDINBURGH * 

PRESBYTBRY OF EDINBURGH, 8TNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEEDDALE. 

REV. THOMAS CLARK, D. D^ 1 ^. . , r cf, a j » 
REV. T. J. CRAWFORD, D. dJ ^*«»*'^' of^^ Andrews. 

REV. JOHN GILCHRIST, D. D., 1 ^ , 

REV. ANDREW BONAR, J ^««*>«jr«'*- 

REV. JOHN PAUL, \ o* n .ia / 

REV. JAMES VEITCH, A.M., j ^^ ^utMerts. 

REV. R. H. STEVENSON, St Georges. 

REV. WILLIAM GLOVER, A. M., Greenside. 

REV. WILLIAM ROBERTSON, New Gretifriars. 

REV. ROBERT LEE, D. D., Old Gre^rxars. 

REV. DAVID ARNOT, D. D., 1 oy l jr l 

REV. JAMES M'LETCHIE, J ^^^ ^^"""^ 

REV. ROBERT W. FR AZER, St John's. 

REV. ARCHIBALD BENNIE, D. D., Lady Yesters. 

REV. JAMES GRANT, D. D-, St Mary's 

REV. JOHN CLARK, A. M., Old Kirk. 

REV. W. MUIR, D, D., LL. D., St Stephen's. 

REV. GEORGE SMITH, Tolbooth Kirk. 

REV. WILLIAM STEVEN, D. D., Trmiiy CoUege. 

REV. ALEXANDER BRUNTON, D. D., 1 ^ ^. |. 

REV. JOHN HUNTER, A. M. / ^'^^ ^*^'^- 

REV. ROBERT NISBET, West St Giles. 



1, Topogrophj. 
II. Civil History. 

III. Public Buildings and Monuments. 

IV. Ecclesiastical State. 

V. Educational and Literary Institu- 



VI. Magistracy, Law Courts, &c. 
VII. Charitable Institutions. i 

VIII. Trade and Manu&ctuies. j 

IX. Poor. I 

X. Miscellaneous, comprising Post 



tions^ I Office, Banks, &c. 

I. — Topography and Natural History. 

The city of Edinburgh is situated in 55^ 57' north latitude, 
and 3^ 14' west longitude from Greenwich, in the northern part 
of the county of Mid-Lothian, and two miles from the southern 
margin of the Frith of Forth. 

It is built on an elevated ridge of hills, which lie in a direclioi> 
from east to west, and also occupies the gently sloping decliTi- 
ties to the north and south. The Castle rock forms the most com- 

* Drawn up by W. R. from original documents and information liberallj furnished 
from various sources.— Printed references, MaitUnd's Hitt.of EdiD., AmotVido^ Par« 
liamentary Reports, &c. 



EDINBURGH. 615 

mandiDg object on the west, while on the south the city is bounded 
by Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags. The oldest and most ele- 
vated part of the city occupies the central ridge, the New Town 
stands on the north declivity, and a modern suburb extends to the 
south. Beyond this, lie the hills of Braid and the extensive range 
of the Pentlands, while the west is bounded by the wooded hill of 
Corstorphine. The Water of Leith, taking its rise in the Pent- 
land Hills, flows to the north-west of the New Town, and dis* 
charges its current into the sea at Leith. 

Meteorology. — The climate of Edinburgh partakes of the Da« 
ture of that of the eastern coast generally. The mean annual 
fall of rain is about twenty*four inches, being nearly one-half less 
than that of the western coast of Scotlanj^ The average tempe- 
rature is about 47^ Fahrenheit 

Abstract of Mr Adie's Meteorological Reports for Edinburgh. 

Rain in inches. 
20.96 

26.77 
2a45 
2&3R 

The prevailing winds are from the west and south-west, except 
in the months of March, April, and May, when an easterly wind 
generally blows with very little variation. This easterly wind, 
coming from the north •west continent of Europe, is cold and dry ; 
the west and south-west winds again, being a portion of the tropi- 
cal currents, are warm and highly charged with moisture. The 
months of March and April are those in which least rain falls ; 
while July, August, and September are usually wet months. 
Thunder storms are of frequent occurrence in June, and occasion* 
ally in the end of May ; and invariably come from the south and 
west, generally in the direction of the Pentland range. In sum- 
mers, when an excess of north and easterly winds takes place, there 
is less thunder around Edinbui^h, the collisions of the adverse and 
contra^electric currents taking place more to the west and north. 

iS^otiL— 'The soil of Edinburghshire being of a light arenaceous 
composition, and the subsoil porous and absorbent, together with 
the undulating nature of the country, admits of a ready draining 
oflf and evaporation of the moisture, and thus tends to keep the 
atmosphere dry, and to facilitate the absorption of the sun's beat. 
The city, from its peculiar situation, is very much exposed to 
winds, and this joined to it$ altitude above the sea level, renders 



V<W.M1 


Mean of 


Mean of 


leara. 


Barometer. 


Thermometer. 


1834, 


29-809 


49^.399 


1835, 


29.70 


47».5 


1837, 


29.688 


46<'.5d 


1839,. 


29340 


46».78 


1840» 


29.61 


45^46 



616 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

its atmosphere less mild than that of some of the surrounding val- 
leys; yet these circumstances, on the other hand, by promoting a 
free circulation of air, contribute to its general salubrity. 

Snow seldom Kes for any length of time, from the proximity of 
the sea ; and the winter temperature, like that of most parts of 
Scotland, is fully milder than that of England, while its summer 
heat is somewhat less. The mean annual temperature of Edin- 
burgh is 8*" less than that of London. 

Geology. — The site of the city of Edinburgh and of itsenyirons 
forms part of the group of strata connected with the coal measures 
of Mid- Lothian ; bounded also by the coal fields of Fifeshire on 
the north ; and all included under the geological denominatioD of 
carboniferous sandstone. This deposit is of great thickness, its 
ascertained depth in the centre of the coal field being 9000 feet. 
It Taries, however, both in its depth and in the nature of its stra- 
tification ; the coal seams which are plentifully found to the south 
of Gilmerton and Joppa, disappear north of this line, and are not 
indicated in any quantity till we reach the opposite shore of the 
Frith of Forth, where the Fifeshire coal pits commence. 

The strata around Edinburgh consist of alternate layers of a 
reddish and yellowish sandstone and sandstone conglomerate, in- 
termixed with shale, and with thin beds of an impure or arenace- 
ous limestone. Below the Mid-Lothian coal seams, a bed of 
mountain limestone with marine fossil remains, forms the lowest 
ascertained stratum ; and is in depth about twenty^seven to thirty 
feet This arenaceous deposit, which seems to have been originally 
formed in a hollow trough or basin, has subsequently been brokea 
up by repeated eruptions of igneous or trap rocks, and thus have 
been formed the irregular surface, and the hills and crags which 
impart such a picturesque appearance to the northern metropolis* 
These trap rocks consist of porphyries, greenstones, basalt, amyg- 
daloid, and a mixture of several of these, forming a sort of con* 
glomerate, which has been denominated wacke. The city is 
built upon three ridges or elevations of these rocks ; the Castle 
Hill forming the ridge of the High Street, the CSalton Hill slop- 
ing downwards to the Canongate, and what formerly was Bunker^s 
Hill, now James* Square, extending along the whole of Princes 
Street, George Street, and Queen Street, while Arthur's Seat 
rears its proud crest as a bulwark on the south and east. 

The Caiile Rock is an isolated mass of fine grained basaltic 
greenstone, rising to the height of 443 feet above the sea leveL 



EDINBURGH. 617 

It is almost perpendicular on the west and south-west sides ; and 
at its base is a deep hollow valley^ which formerly was filled with 
water, but which is now partially levelled, and converted into 
gardens. The south and east sides, which were exposed some 
years ago, in forming the new south approach, exhibit an interest- 
ing section of the igneous rock coming into contact with the sand- 
stone strata. At the point of contact, and for some distance be- 
yond, the sandstone and shale are much distorted and broken into 
fragments, illustrating the fact that the materials composing the 
sandstone must have been consolidated previously to their eleva- 
tion and disruption by the trap. In another artificial section made 
lower down in the Co\irgate, a different rock of the trap series, but 
probably of an older eruption, was displayed several years ago. 

The Calton Hill includes the eminence on which the jail and 
bridewell is built, as well as that on the summit of which stands 
Nelson's Monument The highest and most precipitous portion 
is to the north and west, from whence to the east and north-east 
it gradually slopes. Around the western base the ground is hol- 
low. The height of the hill is 356 feet above the level of the 
sea. The mass of this hill is composed of claystone and clay- 
stone porphyry, with occasionally greenstone intersected with nu- 
merous veins of carbonate of lime and quartz. On the south cor- 
ner, approaching the hill by the stairs from Waterloo Place, the 
rock has a conglomerated structure. Proceeding to the north- 
east, the rock consists of a brown argillaceous base, with frag* 
ments of felspar intermixed, assuming a porphyritic appearance. 
This forms the prevailing rock all around, but it occasionally 
passes, especially on the summit, into a soft claystone tinged with 
brown iron ore, and not unlike hematitic iron ore in aspect. As 
the weather acts on this rock, it appears in many places to scale 
off, leaving rounded circular masses. 

The section exposed to the north and north-east, in digging 
out the foundations of the houses in Royal Terrace, exhibits the 
following order of strata. The lowest lying strata on the right 
consists of alternating beds of compact yellow sandstone alternat- 
ing with shale and blue clay, and dipping at an angle of about 
25^ to the east. About fifty yards onwards, and in the middle of 
the section, the close-grained sandstone passes into a conglome- 
rate. These layers of conglomerate vary somewhat. It is com- 
posed of a basis of clayey matter, in some parts bluish and muddy 
looking ; in others of a clearer yellowish colour. In this mass ace 



618 EDINBURGUSHIllE. 

m 

imbedded innumerable rounded pebbles and irregular fragments 
of rocks, from the size of a pea to that of an egg. The fragments 
are quartz and felspar, of a yellowish, reddish, and dark-red co- 
lour ; the larger pieces consisting of compact felspar and jasper. 
Few or no traces of trap-rock are perceptible in this conglome- 
rate, which seems rather to hare been formed from the debris of 
granite and the older poqihyries. The larger masses are water- 
worn pebbles, apparently of quartz rock, and minute sand particles 
are copiously intermixed, but without micaceous particles. Oo 
the whole, the mass has an exact resemblance to a consolidated 
sea beach. Farther onwards to the south-east, the upper beds 
of this conglomerate change to a reddish arenaceous mass, in 
which the debris of the surrounding trap rocks is sufficiently per- 
ceptible. 

On the south side of the hill, various alternations of the trap 
and sandstone rocks are visible, as seen in a perpendicular line 
from Nelson's Monument downwards. Thus the rock on which 
Nelson's Monument rests is claystone porphyry. Below this, the 
section formed by the circular walk exhibits a conglomerated 
sandstone : again, opposite bridewell, a layer of shale and sand- 
stone is seen interposed between two masses of trap, while green- 
stone, of a harder and more compact nature, prevails downwards. 
From these interpositions of the trap among the shale and sand- 
stone strata, it appears as if this intrusion of the igneous rocks had 
taken place, in the first instance, while the strata were nearly ho- 
rizontal, and that afterwards a second eruption of igneous matter 
had elevated the whole mass of the hill into its present position. 
This hill affords a good example of the sloping position which 
all those in the vicinity assume, — the eastern sides being covered 
with sandstone, while the western are abrupt and naked. The 
accumulation of rocky fragments and diluvial clay and sand on 
the eastern declivities, afford evident proofs of a current of water 
having flowed with violence for a considerable period. But some 
other cause must have influenced the uniform slope.of the strata 
to the eastward, for the simple effects of denudation, however vio- 
lent, will not explain this phenomenon. 

It is highly probable that, previous to the eruption of the trap 
rocks, the sandstone had obtained an easterly inclination from an- 
terior eruptions ; and that thus it more readily gave way in that 
direction at a subsequent period, while this effect was perhaps 
aided by the impetus of the current of the igneous mass itself pass- 



EDINBURGH. 619 

ing in a direction from west to east The waving and progressive 
movements of modern volcanic eruptions afford an analogy to this. 

When the foundation of the present High School was dug out, 
copper ore in small quantities was discovered, and a few fragments 
of native copper. The rock now almost levelled and removed im- 
mediately to the west of this seminary, — called the MiUer^s 
Knowe^^^^^s a curious compound of greenstone and calcareous spar 
with a mixture of a steatitic mineral which gave it a soapy feel ; the 
latter intersecting the trap in numerous veins, crossing each other in 
all directions. Iron pyrites is also found in small crystals ; barytes 
in masses; and quartz crystals of various hues and forms. Par- 
ticles of glance coal from the sandstone beds are also of frequent 
occurrence. 

Bunker^s Hill, although at one time it formed a conspicuous 
eminence, has been levelled for many years. It, as well as the 
rocks on which the new town is built, is a greenstone nearly simi- 
lar to that of Salisbury Crags. . A portion of the same rock may 
still be seen in a quarry at the back of Albany Street. 

The section at the Dean Bridge displays the sandstone and 
shale strata elevated and inclined at a considerable angle to the 
north, while the same sandstone in the bed of the water of Leith, 
being less elevated and disturbed, has an inclination to the east- 
ward ; which is the prevalent one of the district. 

Lochend also presents an elevation of greenstone similar to that 
which forms the basis of the New Town. A quarry in this 
neighbourhood illustrates the effects of the igneous rocks on the 
sandstone immediately in contact with them. At this point of 
junction the sandstone is formed into a silicious mass, exactly re- 
sembling quartz rock or fine grained gneiss. 

Salisbury Crags and Arthur's Seat are composed of a series of 
elevated terraces commencing at St Leonards, and extending to 
the eastern base of Arthur's Seat. The best point for viewing 
this connected series is from the eastward. The sloping base of 
Salisbury Crags is composed of a red sandstone and layers of a 
reddish shale. Above this is a mass of greenstone fifty feet in 
height. ' On the north-east corner this mass is surmounted by 
sandstone, evidently broken off from the corresponding sandstone 
strata below. About the centre of the Crags, at a fissure called 
the Cafa Nicky the strata seem to divide and to incline in opposite 
directions, the portion to the right dipping to the south-east, while 
that to the left has a north-easterly dip. Between the Crags and 
Arthur's Seat is a hollow called the Hunter's Bog. On the left 



620 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

of this ravine, the first of the elevated terraces of Arthur's Seat is 
seen. This rock is composed of greenstone porphyry. A little 
onwards is another terrace forming a waving ridge to nearly the 
summit of the hill ; the rock here is a greenstone. South-east of 
St Anthony's Chapel, a vesicular greenstone is found, then suc- 
ceeds a dark basalt, followed by beds of porphyritic greenstone 
and amygdaloid rocks. Interspersed among these beds are traces 
of sandstone and shale ; but not to the same extent as is seen on 
Salisbury Crags. .The centre and summit of Arthur's Seat is 
composed of basalt. On the southern summit, regular basaltic 
crystals are abundant ; and basaltic columns form the southern de« 
clivity called Samson's Ribs. 

The open porous structure of the rocks near St Anthony's 
Chapel, with glassy, fused-looking matter in the interstices, irre- 
sistibly suggests the idea of their having undergone intense heat; 
and of their similarity to volcanic products. 

On the south-east precipice of the hill which overlooks the 
beautiful little loch of Duddingston will be found sufficient indica- 
tions of the strata through which the trap has passed in its ascent 
upwards. Much of these strata has been washed away, but there 
still remain huge masses of conglomerate, fragments of the sand- 
stone strata, and several masses of limestone, which latter bears 
strong evidence of having been subjected to intense heat. Arthur's 
Seat is 820 feet above the level of the sea. Craigleith quarry is 
situated about a mile and a half to the north*west of the city. It 
has been wrought for the last eighteen years. It contains an area 
of seven acres in circumference, and is in depth 200 feet. It is 
composed of a fine grained and homogeneous sandstone of a yellow- 
ish colour, resembling in every respect that of the coal measures 
throughout the district In many places there are distinct marks 
of stratification, where a shale more or less bituminous, and some* 
times minute seams of coal separate the sandstone into layers. In 
other places, again, the stone is compact and massive, and exhibits 
little of the regular stratified form. The strata have a general 
dip to the north-east, but many slips and irregularities occur. 
The exact position of this sandstone bed, iii relation to the coal ba- 
sin of the Esk, cannot with accuracy be ascertained. Within the 
last twelve years, three large fossil trees have been found lying in 
positions across the lines of stratification. One of these trunks was 
upwards of 40 feet in length ; and all belong to a species of Arauca- 
caria, one of the pine family. Besides these fossil trees, numerousspe- 



EDINBURGH. 621 

ciesoftbe Stigmaria^ Lepidodendrm^Sigillaria^ aod other pknts of 
the coal beds, are abundaDt, especially in the upper beds of the 
quarry* Above all is a diluml coTeriBg of fieveral feet m depth ; 
consisting of day with laige boulders and day nodules containing 
coprolites and other exuviae of fishes. 

There are several springs of water in and around Edinburgh ; 
and water is readily found in most sknationsi by cutting through 
the sandstone strata. 

St Bernard's WelU on the hanks of the Water of Leith, possesses 
very considerable mineral properties. It contains sulphuretted 
hydrogen gas and irooy with a slight admixture of ol^r salts. 
A spring at Bennington contains caHbonic acid and other mineral 
alkaline salts. 

Beiany. — Perhaps few cities possess within its immediate boun- 
daries such a variety of botanical productioBs as Edinburgh. On 
Arthur Seat there are not fewer than 400 species of plants. Some 
of these are perhaps not strictly indigenous, the fancy or partiality 
ef botanists having naturalised several there to the soil* Yet tih« 
diversity of hiU and valley^ and the favourable exposures and con- 
genial soH at all seasons of vegetation, afford an interesting treat 
to the lovers of the simple productions of nature. 

On the dopes and hollows of this beautiful hill wiH be found, 
among others, the Atplenium septenirionale^ Arenaria vema^ P^ 
teniiila vermis Sahna verbenaca^ Eu&rtymu$ Eurt^kBHSy or spindle 
tree, and Pyrtu Aria^ or white beam. A considerable variety of 
mosses and lichens also cover the gveen sward, and clothe the 
hoary and rugged rocks around. 

2(Mrfti^.-»The zoological specimens are no less abundaxrttn 
this favoured locality. AHhougfa so near ihe hum of the great 
city, Che hare is not unfrequendy seen limping across the hollows 
of Artbui^s Seat. The fox is also an occasional visitor ; while 
the note of the cuckoo never fi^ls to enliven the long and e^l 
summer evening. The PapSio Artaxerwes^ abutteHly not common 
in other parts of Scotland, is found in the King's Park. The Lor 
eerta agiU$ and Anguii fragility two reptiles, are rfso not unfre- 
•quent •among the debris of Salisbury Crags. While in the same 
localities a great variety of shell molluscs—the Helix, Btdimtis, 
Suecinia, Pupa, Clausilia, and many others^ are found in greqt 
]^nty. 

"Tie blue-backed shrike (Ijoniui ttoAk&r) is an isbabitant of 
Arthur^s Seat The kestril builds its nest on the Castle rock ; 

EDINBUfiGH. R r 



622 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

and the kingfisher is not uncommon on the banks of the Water 

of Leith. 

II. — Civil History. 

From the commanding position of the ground on which the pre- 
sent city of Edinburgh is placed, especially the bold and precipi- 
tous rock on which the Castle stands, there can be no doubt but 
that it was early occupied as a place of refuge and defence in the 
first troubled periods of the Scottish history. The surrounding 
country, at the Roman conquest, formed the province of Valentia. 
The district was subsequently occupied by Saxon invaders from 
the north of England ; and by them chiefly retained till about the 
year 1020, when the Lothians were ceded to the Scottish mo- 
narch, Malcolm IL 

Name. — The most ancient name which we find given to Edin- 
burgh Castle according to Boetius is Castelh Mynyd Agned^ or the 
fortress of the Hill of Agnes, and the hill itself Mynyd Agned 
Cathre-ffoniofij the hill Agned nigh the fortress. Simeon of Dur- 
ham, writing in the year 854, mentions this fortress under the 
name of Edtoinesburch^ or the castle of Edwin, probably so called 
after Edwin Prince of Northumberland, who flourished in 626, 
about which period probably the fortress was first built In 
a copy of a very old French map of Edinburgh the Castle is 
denominated Castmm PueUarum ; tradition relating that the daugh- 
ters of the Pictish kings were wont to be kept there as a place of 
safety. 

Historical Notices. — King David I. in his charter of foundation 
of the abbey of Holy rood, dated 1 128, recognises Edinburgh as 
Burgo meo de Edtoinesburgf and, as this monarch is said to have 
been the first who chartered royal boroughs in Scotland, it is 
not improbable that Edinburgh derived this distinction from him. 

It must at this period have been a town of some consequence, 
for, besides paying revenues to the king, out of which forty shil* 
lings were to be paid yearly to the abbey of Holyrood, the charter 
grants also to the same ** one half of the tallow, lard, and hides of 
the beasts killed in Edinburgh." 

In the year 1174, William the Lion was taken prisoner in an 
unsuccessful excursion into Northumberland ; cmd the Scots, im- 
patient at the captivity of their king, purchased his freedom by 
giving up to their enemies some of the chief fortresses of the na- 
tion, among which was the Castle of Edinburgh* On the subsequent 

3 



BDINBUBOH. 623 

marriage of William with a cousin of King Henry, the castle was 
restored as a dower to the queen. 

Alexander IL, the son of William the Lion, held a parliament 
in Edinburgh in the year IS15 for the first time. But it was not 
till long after this period that the city began to assume the lead 
as the capital of the empire. In 1456 parliaments began to <be 
regularly held in the city. During the warlike incursions of Ed- 
ward L into Scotland, Edinburgh Castle was besieged and taken 
in the year 1296; and remained in possession of the English for 
seventeen years, until it was again recaptured by Randolph Earl of 
Moray. 

After this the castle was demolished by Robert, that it might 
not agaui harbour the English forces; but Edward III. again re- 
built and fortified it. It did not long remain, however, in the 
possession of the English ; having been recovered by stratagem 
by William the Douglas and a few of his brave followers. 

The oldest charter now extant is that granted to the city by 
King Robert L, dated 28th May 1329, which includes the harbour 
and mills on the Water of Leith. His grandson Robert III. con- 
ferred en the burgesses the right of erecting houses within the pre- 
cincts of the Castle, on condition of their being persons of good fame. 
King James IL was crowned at the palace of Holy rood House; 
and, being a minor, remained for some time for protection in the 
Castle. 

The exiled and unfortunate Henry VI. of England also fled to 
Edinburgh in 1461, and was kindly received and treated by the 
burgesses. 

In 1482, James III., a weak and facile prince, took refuge ia 
Edinburgh from his turbulent nobles ; and the burgesses so warm- 
ly and effectually espoused his cause, that, in gratitude for their 
services, this monarch granted them two charters, in which the 
provost was made hereditary high sheriff within the city ; an office 
which the chief magistrate still enjoys. He also granted to the 
council the power of making statutes and bye-laws for the govern- 
ment of the city, and a right to the customs of merchandise at the 
port of Leith. To the incorporated trades was presented a stan- 
dard, which* still exists, called the blue blanket* 

Many of the citizens of Edinburgh shared the disastrous fate 
of their King, James IV., and his army at the fatal battle of Flod- 
den Field* On the tidings of this complete overthrow reaching 
the city, the inhabitants behaved with great firmness and conside- 



624 EDmSURGHSHIftE. 

ration* A proclamatioa was issued, ordering aH the males eapaMe 
of bearing arms inniinediately to appear ifi military array, and prt 
themselTes under the command of the provost. Erery foorth man 
was selected as a night guard ; and 'five hundred pounds, Scottish 
money, were raised for ammunition and for the forti6cation of the 
city. It was at this period that a militia was embodied for the 
permanent security of the town, under the name of the T&ton Gnard; 
which venerable body existed until the organization of a regular 
police in the year 1817. 

According to the description of a French traveller, the Duke de 
Rohan, in the year 1600, Edinburgh was reckoned the principri 
town in Scotland, and formed the chief residence of the king and 
ntolbHity. He describes it as about one thousand paces in lengA 
and four or five hundred in breadth ; adcKng that it presented do- 
iSiiog remaxlable^bnt llhe great street in the centre, which was very 
long and broad, extending from one end t>f the town to the other; 
that the h^ouses were not sumptuous, berog almost all built of wood; 
but, to make amends, it was so full ef inhabitants that probably 
there is no town eTsewheve of its tlimensions so populous. Aeen- 
tuiy hefore this, the whole of the Borough Moor er myre, to the 
south of the city, was covered with wood ; and, in order to dispose 
of tliis to the best advantage, an order of Cmmeil enacted that 
those citizens who would purchase as mudi of t!he wood as was suf- 
ficient to make a new front to their houses, were at liberty to extend 
the same seven feet farther into the street This offer appears to 
Irave been eagerly accepted ; and the codseqitence was the clear- 
ing of the wooded moor, and the narrowing of the prineipal street 
by wooden projections something in the style of 1^ Old Lweken 
Booths. 

During the minority of James V., the nobles were extremely tur- 
bulent. The leaders of the two opposite parties were the E^rl of 
Arran and Eari of Angus. A fray between these two parties took 
place in 1515 on tbe High Street of Edinbui^h, near tbe Nether 
Bow ; in which upwards of 250 people were slain. Some years 
after this, so high had party animosities grown, that the then Re- 
gent, the Duke 'of Albany, sent forth an edict -prohibiting any of 
the name of Douglas or Hamilton to be chosen provest of Edin- 
burgh. Notwithstanding this order, and in eppositien to the sen- 
timents of the citizens'who were adverse to the 6arl of Arran, that 
lord thought proper to interfere in the election of proveet. Tbe 
citizens shut their gates against htm; a seuffle ensued; one of llie 



EDINBUBOH. , 68& 

deacoQs was killed by the HaixultoQ party; and the minds of the 
iohabitants wholly alienated from ihe Earl of Arran« 

Henry ^IIL of England, entertaining a project to annex Scut-* 
land to England by giving in oiarriage his son Edward to the 
young Queen of Scots, entered into a treaty with Arran for this 
purpose. But the intrigues of Cardinal Beaton prevented it from 
being carried into execution. The English monarch, offended at 
the disappointment of bis plans, immediately invaded Scotland. 
Two hundred sail of ships entered the Frith of Forth ; and the 
forces having landed, they burnt the towns of Leith and Edinburghj 
and plundered and laid waste the adjacent country. This hap- 
pened in the year 1542. A few years afterwards, Edinburgh 
again was assailed and pillaged by the English under the Earl of 
Hertford, who defeated the Scottish army at Pinkie. 

The doctrines of the Reformation, which, at this period, were 
exciting the minds of all the liberal inquirers on^the continent of 
Euiope, were transported to Scotland by John Knox and the 
other disciples of Calvin, and were eagerly embraced by the Scot- 
tish intellect. Knox arrived in Edinburgh in 1555, where he soon 
drew around him groups of eager listeners to his doctrines. He 
boldly declaimed against the errors of Popery ^ and expatiated 
upon the impiety of even being present at mass. The hand of 
power obliged him to a temporary flight; but he returned, and 
daily drew around him crowds of willing converts ; among whom 
were many of the most powerful Scottish nobility and gentry. 
This party formed themselves into the celebrated Congregation^ 
and bound themselves to the mutual defence and support of each 
other and of their civil and religious liberty. Mary of Guise, the 
Queen-mother, and a zealous Catholic, had succeeded the Earl 
of Arran as regent of the kingdom. But all her power and influ- 
ence were not sufficient to cope with the growing sway and deter- 
mined attitude of the army of the Congregation. On the approach 
of the feast of St Giles, the tutelary saint of Edinburgh, in the 
year 1558^ certain zealous reformers, to prevent the profane and 
idolatrous procession, stole the image of St Giles, and threw it 
into the North Loch. There was great confusion among tl\e 
priests, when, upon their going to decorate the image for the proces- 
sion, they discovered that it was stolen. To supply its place, a small 
image was obtained from the Greyfriars ; and, to overawe the crowd, 
the Queen Regent graced the solemnity with her presence. The 
procession was conducted peaceably, till towards the end ; when, 



625 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

the Queen retiring to dinner, the mob demolished the image, and 
scattered the procession, to the utter dismay of the priests and firiars* 
^^Such a sudden fray,** says Knox, "came never among the genera- 
tions of antichrist within this realm before.*' 

On the approach of the army of the Congregation from Perth 
to Edinburgh, the magistrates sent out commissioners to entreat 
the leaders to cause spare the churches and religious houses, that 
these might be converted to the use of the reformed religion-' 
The gates of the city were also shut, except those of the Nether 
Bow and West Port, which were guarded by twelve men each ; 
while a guard of sixty men was placed over St Giles. The army 
entered and took possession of the city ; and a short truce was 
entered into with the Queen. Soon after, however, the latter, 
having been reinforced with French troops, took possession of Leith, 
burned out the greater part of the inhabitants, and fortified the 
place. This was, in the opinion of the Congregational leaders, 
an infringement of the truce. They again assembled. At a 
solemn meeting in the Tolbooth, they suspended the Queen from 
her regency ; and next day they formally summoned the town of 
Leith to surrender. No regard being paid to their summons, they 
prepared to attack the fortifications, the town-council df Edin- 
burgh having furnished 2000 merks towards promoting the enter- 
prise. They attempted the attack by escalade, but were repul- 
sed, chiefly owing to the shortness of the scaling ladders. In a se- 
cond attack they were not more fortunate ; and now, not deeming 
themselves secure within the walls of Edinburgh, they retired to 
Stirling, and there awaited a reinforcement from Queen Eliza- 
beth. An army of 6000 men and a fleet of ships were dispatch- 
ed from England to the assistance of the Congregation ; which, 
arriving at Leith, soon compelled the French troops to capitulate, 
and leave the kingdom ; and thus the Lords of the Congregatiocr 
were left sole masters of the government. Immediately after, the 
Parliament was assembled in Edinburgh. All the members who 
were favourable to the doctrines of the Reformation attended, as 
well as several prelates and lords who still adhered to the Catho- 
lic religion. This Parliament proceeded to abolish the Papal ju- 
risdiction ; to rescind the whole acts made in favour of Popery ; 
to establish the Confession of Faith ; and to enact laws for the 
proper observance of religious ordinances. 

In accordance with these, the town-council of Edinburgh en- 
acted that all idolaters, fornicators, and adulterers should be ba« 



EDINBUBGH. 627 

oished the city; that the public fairs and markets should do 
longer, as they were wont, be held on Sunday ; that the sports and 
games of week days should on the Sabbath be discontinued ; and 
that no shops or taverns should be open, or goods sold, during 
Divine service. Indeed, from the frequent and severe enactments 
at this period against loose and disorderly characters, it is evident 
that the morals of the community must have been gross and cor- 
rupted in the extreme. 

The frequent robberies and disorders in the town by night oc- 
casioned the town-council to order lanterns or bowets to be hung 
out in the streets and closes, by such persons and in such places 
as the magistrates should appoint,-^to continue burning for the 
space of four hours, that is, from five o'clock in the evening till 
nine, which was deemed a proper time for people to retire to their 
bouses. The Council also ordered all dunghills and filth to be re- 
moved from the streets, and swine prevented from coming thereon. 
The city wall, from Leith Wynd to the end of the North Loch, 
was also at this time built with a house on it, for the sum of L.4, 
10s. Scotch, per rood, and forty shillings for each rood of the 
battlement. After the defeat of the French troops, the fortifica- 
tions at Leith were demolished by an order of the council, to pre- 
vent foreign forces from again occupying them to the prejudice of 
the liberties of the kingdom. 

In the autumn of 1561, Mary, the youthful Queen of Scots, 
after a long sojourn and education in France, arrived to take pos- 
session of the kingdom of her fathers. On the 1st of September 
she made her public entry into Edinburgh ; and was received with 
great pomp, and every demonstration of affectionate welcome. 
One great and insurmountable drawback, however, was her re- 
ligion. On the Sunday after her arrival, while the Catholic mass 
was celebrating, a crowd of people assembled at the palace, and 
were with difficulty restrained from interrupting the service, and 
taking vengeance on the officiating priest The magistrates of 
Edinburgh, to .the great annoyance of the Queen, renewed their 
former edict against " idolaters and whoremongers," — a classify- 
ing of offences which they persisted in using, — ordering them, on 
pain of summary punishment, to withdraw and banish themselves 
out of the city within forty-eight hours. Two years afterwards, 
during the Queen's absence on a progress into the west, mass con- 
tinuing to be celebrated in the chapel of Holyrood House, the 



S28 EDlNBDEQVSBIlE. 

nultiMb of penont wfae openly rasortad Unfher gm?e grttH of- 
fence to the people^ who lissembled Id » lannkiiouB taunxTf ioh 
temipted tlie ferviees, and iatunidated tbose preMot. Two of tbe 
ringleaders were apprehended ; bttt^ in consequence of tbe pr^ 
pondemtkig intereet of the aothorkiesy who were oo tha aide of 
tbe reformed reUgion, they were agaio released wkhoiit a triaL 

So jealous were tbe town-council^ at this critical juMtuve ia the 
infancy of a great reform of religion, that they enacted a law ex- 
clnding all but persons of tbe Protestant faith from filling any of- 
ficial situation in tbe city. 

They also ordered the figure of St Giles to be cut out of the 
town's standard, and tbe thistle to be inserted in its place. 

In 15M and 1507 occurred tbe atrocious onirders of Rizzio 
and Darnley. Rizzio was murdered in the Queen's apartments in 
Holyrood ; and Darnley in a bouse called the Kirk-<rf*fieldy 
which was situated where the uniyersity now stands. One of 
the clergymen of tbe city, true to bis sense of dnty, and with 
that stern abhorrence of guilt which did honour to bis principles, 
boldly and publicly denounced tbe murderer of tbe King, and the 
shameful alliance of Mary with tbe mnrderen Voices were 
beard on tbe streets at midnight calling aloud for vengeance ; and 
at last a confederate body of tbe nobles^ entering Edinburgh^ oom- 
polled the Queen to surrender ; when she was carried to Loeb- 
leren Castle ad a prisoner. 

During the regency which after this occurred, tbe city of Edin- 
burgh was frequently convulsed by the two parties into Which the 
country was divided, the one espousing the cause of tbe imprison* 
ed Queen, tbe other that of tbe partisans of tbe infimt King. 
Kirkaldy of Orange, the leader of the Queen's party, obtaining 
possession of tbe Castle, held it for about two years, supported by 
tbe Earls of Huntly, Home, Herries,|and other chiefs, and aided by 
succours from France. He planted a battery on the steeple of St 
Giles ; repaired and fortified the city walls ; and, although the in* 
clinations of tbe citizens were decidedly hostile to bis cause, it was 
not till the Regent obtained succours from Queen Elizabeth that be 
was forced to surrender. Kirkaldy and his brother were execut- 
ed at the cross of Edinburgh ; and, with the death of these men, 
the QuQen's party sunk never to recover. 

On James VI. coming of age to resume the monarchy, he received 
a body guard of 100 of the choicest young men, citizens of Edinburgh, 



BDfNBUEQB. ^29 

and well aeccmlredy to attend bin* At the same time the town- 
council presented him with a service of silver plate. Soon afterwards 
he made his entrance into Edinburgh from Stirling^ where he had 
chiefly resided, in great state, and was received by the citixens with 
acclamations of joy, amid imposing and expensive pageantry. The 
King, arriving in the neighbourhood of the city, dismounted at 
the West Port ; where he was received by the magistrates^ and 
conducted into the town under a magnificent canopy of purple 
velvet. At the West Port he was saluted by a person representing 
King Solomon, attended by a numerous train in Jewish habits, and 
with personages representing the two women striving for the child. 
Thence proceedii^ to the West Bow, there was there suspended 
a laige polished brazen globe, from which a Cupid descended in a 
car and presented to the King the keys of the city gates, which 
were of silver, in a silver basin. A concert of music accompanied 
this ceremony ; and, arriving at the Tolbooth, he was harangued 
by persons representing Peace, Plenty, and Justice, in the Greek, 
Latin, and S<x>tch languages. On entering St Giles churchy an- 
other personage enacting Religion addressed him in Hebrew. On 
arriving at the market cross, a Bacchus mounted on a gilt bogs- 
head was distributing bumpers of wine aoaong the people, amid 
the sound of trumpets and the loud acclamations of the citizens. 
At the Nether Bow was eree/ted a painting of the Nativity and ac- 
companying it the genealogy of the Scottish kings from Feif us L 
During the procession, the streets were strdwed with flowers, and 
the Castle guns proclaimed a welcome. 

Previous to the Reformation, the Bible was to the laity a seal- 
ed and forbidden book. Now, however, we find a proclamation 
by the common Council, strictly enjoining all householders and sub- 
stantial inhabitants of the city to keep Bibles in their houses, for 
their better information in the scriptures, under the penalty ap- 
pointed by act of Parliament. 

The Presbyterian religion had, however, from the very first, 
to contend with many difficulties. At this period, the two prin- 
cipal were the plots of the disappointed and disaffected Catholics, 
and the jealousy of the King of the least approach to any en- 
croachment or curtailment of his prerogatives. By one party, the 
clergy were decried as assuming too much power, and claiming 
for the Church too exclusive a jurisdiction ; while, on the other 
hand, the ecclesiastics and their lay adherents no doubt thought 



630 EDINBURaHSHIRE. 

that, in those lawless and unsettled times, without full powers, 
they could accomplish nothing useful. 

In August 1582, occurred the seizure of the King by the Earl 
of Gowrie at his house at Ruthven, hence called the Raid of 
RtUhven. The object of this bold ptep was to get the King into 
the keeping of the Reformation party. They brought him to 
Edinburgh, and the solemnity of his reception was characterbtic 
of the manners of the times. He was met by the ministers of 
the city, and the procession walked along the streets singing a 
psalm, expressive of their critical escape from danger, and the 
great deliverance they had obtained by the captivity of the King. 
Soon after, however, James regained his liberty, and, in 1584, 
a Parliament was held at Edinburgh, wherein the authority of 
the King and of the estates of Parliament, in all cases, and over 
every order, spiritual and temporal, was confirmed* The refusing 
to acknowledge the jurisdiction of the Privy C)ouncil, and the pre- 
tending an exemption from the authority of the civil courts, were 
declared to be high treason. The holding of assemblies, whether 
civil or ecclesiastical, without the King's permission or appoint- 
ment, and the uttering, either in private or public, in sermons or 
otherwise, any false or scandalous reports against the King or his 
ministers, were pronounced capital crimes. 

Against these measures the clergy protested, and especially 
craved that no enactments should be made, till at least they ob- 
tained a hearing on the matter. One of their number was de- 
puted to wait on the King, but, instead of his message being lis- 
tened to, he was sent a prisoner to Blackness. 

When, according to custom, the new laws were proclaimed at 
the market cross, Mr Robert Pont, minister of St Cuthbert's and 
one of the Lords of Session, entered his solemn protest against 
them, because they had been passed without the knowledge or 
consent of the church. The whole of the city clergy, as well as 
the most eminent of those throughout the kingdom, now fled into 
England, to the inexpressible grief and disappointment of their 
attached congregations. 

Next year, however, they were permitted to return, and a par- 
don granted to those noblemen who had been engaged in the 
Gowrie Conspiracy. Still, however, the ministers retained that 
independence which a stern sense of their duty dictated to them ; 
and even, at the earnest request of the King, refused to offer pub- 
lic prayers for his mother. 



BDINBURGH. 631 

About this time the King, with a view of cementiDg his nobility 
more harmoniously together, and of compromising their many 
quarrels and personal feuds, invited them to an entertainment in the 
palace of Holyrood. From thence he conducted them in proces- 
sion through the streets of the city, each hand in hand with his 
new-made friend. A collation of wines and sweetmeats was pre- 
pared at the public cross ; and there they pledged each other in 
mutual friendship. The populace, delighted with this spectacle, 
and anticipating from it future peace and prosperity, joined in loud 
and repeated acclamations. 

In 1588, while the Spanish Armada threatened the shores of 
Britain, the Scotch nation entered into a bond of union called the 
Covenanij for the mutual protection of their liberties and religion, 
and the defence of the King's person. On this occasion the town- 
council ordered 300 men to be raised for the defence of the city. 

In 1592 the Presbyterian form of church government was es- 
tablished by a solemn act of the Parliament ; wherein the privi- 
leges of the Church and the supremacy of the King were attempt- 
ed to be defined and limited. Yet so vague seemed to be any 
definition, or so imperfect its observance, that mutual jealousies 
and disputes were continually arising. 

In 1596 a clergyman from St Andrew's, of the name of Black, 
having in a public harangue denounced the King as an encourager 
of the Popish lords lately recalled, was summoned for trial before 
the privy-council. His cause was espoused by the other clergy, 
and they were backed by the citizens of Edinburgh. The King, 
incensed at their proceedings, issued a proclamation requiring the 
standing council or commission of the Church, which had been 
previously appointed to watch over their affairs, to be dissolved, 
and twenty-four of the principal citizens to leave the town within 
six hours. Still farther to add to the general commotion, a letter, 
said to be fictitious, was sent to one of the ministers, Bruce, cau- 
tioning them to look to their safety, as Huntly, one of the return- 
ed Popish lords, had been in confereuce with the King the pre- 
ceding night. A petition was forthwith drawn up, to be present- 
ed to the King by two lords, two gentlemen, and two ministers. 
On the day th^ petition was to be presented, the King happened 
to come to the Court of Session, then sitting in the Tolbooth. 
The King was in an upper room when he received the petitioners^, 
and Mr Bruce, one of the ministers, acquainted him '^ that they 
were sent by the noblemen and barons convened in the Little 



089 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Church, to bemoau the danger threatened to religion bj the deal- 
ing that was against the ministers and true professors*^ ^* What 
dangers see you," said the King? ** Under cooamuning," said 
Bruce, " our beat affected people, that tender religion, are dis- 
charged the town ; the Liady Huntlj, a professed Papist, amiAtaiOf- 
ed at Court, and it is suspected that her husband is not far off.'' 
The King^ without answering, asked who they were that durst coo- 
yene against his proclamation? Lord Lindsay, in a passion, an- 
swered, ^' That they durst do more than that, and would not sut 
fer religion to be overturned." Numbers of people now crowding 
into the room, the King, without farther reply, withdrew to a lower 
room, where the judges were sitting, and ordered the door to be 1 

shut.* When the petitioners returned to the multitude, ihe re* 
suit of their ineffectual pleading caused a violent commotion. Some 
called to arms; some to bring out the wicked Haman; others 
cried " the sword of the Lord and Gideon," and, rushing out with 
great violence and tumult, surrounded the Tolbooth. At last 
ihe magistrates procured order. The King attempted to sooth 
tl)e people by promising to receive their petition when presented 
in a proper m^ner, and was permitted to return peaceably to his 
palace. That same evening another petition was prepared, but 
the King's indignation was still so great that they durst not venture 
yet to present it. Before next morning, the King with his court 
withdrew to Linlithgow. The Courts of Session and of Justiciary 
were ordered to leave the city, where it was no longer consistent 
with their freedom or dignity to renaain, and the nobles and barons 
were commanded to return to their own houses, and not to reas- 
semble without the King^s permission. The ministers determined 
to stand firm ; and in order to strengthen their cause, wrote to 
Lord Hamilton to come to Edinburgh and head them. 

His Lordship, instead of complying, went directly to Linlithgow 
and showed their letter to the King. James, still further provok- 
ed by this circumstance, issued an order to the magistrates instant- 
ly to seize and incarcerate the clergy, but they having received 
intimation of their danger fled into England. 

The citizens were also awed into submission. They sent a de- 
putation of the most respectable burgesses to the King, and made 
a most humble apology for their conduct. But the offended mo- 
joarch long remained inexorable, and threatened even to rase the 
city to its foundations. At last, through the interposition of Queen 

* SpottiswoodL 



EUINBUROH. 6SS 

Elixabetb, be so &r relented. A show of a trial of thirteen of ibe 
citizens was made at Perth, and one of this number failing to ap- 
pear, judgmmit was given against the whole, the oonimunity were 
declared rebels^ and their revenues confiseated. For fifteen days 
the cHy remained in a state of anarchy ; but upon the supplication 
of the magistrates and council, and their offer to submit them- 
selves entirely to the King's mercy, be restored the community 
against the forfeiUire under certain conditions, and a fine of 20,000 
raerks for the crown. The clergy were also pardoned and allow- 
ed to return. 

On the death of Queen Elizabeth in 1603, James took his de- 
parture from Scotland to ascend the throne of England. On the 
Bunday previous, he wewt to St Giles' chitrch, where a crowded 
oongregatton were assembled to take leave of their s^narch. An 
exhortatory diecourse was delivered, which the King took in good 
part, and at its conclusion, observing die people to be deeply af- 
fected, he addressed them in the wannest language of friendship, 
requesting them not to be dejeoled at his departure, since as bis 
power to serve them was increased, his inclinations, he assured 
them, were not diminished. 

For a period of thirty-five years after the accession of James to 
the English throne, the city of Edinburgh appears to have en- 
joyed a state of comparative tranqutUity and repose. The reli- 
gious disputes between the King and people seem to have been 
buried in obttvieo. As a mark of royal favour the provost was al- 
lowed to have a 'swoid of state borne before faiai, and the magis- 
trates to -wear robes of office on public occasions. 

In 1618 James paid bis last visit to the city; on which occa- 
sion he was received wfth great pomp and pageantry, and pre- 
sented with 10,000 merks in a silver basin. 

The same harmony prevailed in the beginning of Charles the 
First's reign. That monarch also visited Edinburgh in the year 
1626^ and was received with great pomp by the Lord Provost and 
magistrates in their robes, attended by 200 armed young men 
dressed in doublets of white satin and black velvet breocbes. The 
streets were hung with tapestry, and lined by train bands, through 
which the monarch passed to the palace. 

But this good understanding was of short continuance. Cbadcs 
was resolved on forcing on the nation a system and forms of re* 
ligion to which they were repugnant, and hence arose unlawful 
persecution on the one hand, and discontent and open rebellion 



634 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

on the other, till at last the whole of Britain was convulsed and 
monarchical government for a time overthrown^ 

In 1637, the liturgy of Laud was introduced into Scotland. 
Edinburgh was made the seat of a diocese, comprehending the 
three Lothians and part of Berwickshire. The church of St 
Giles formed the cathedral. On Sunday, the 2dd of July, the 
English liturgy was first read in this church. Both the Arch- 
bishops, a number of the privy council, the Lords of Session and 
magistrates of the city, with a great concourse of people were as* 
sembled. All was profound silence till the Dean of Edinburgh 
arrayed in^ his surplice opened the service booL On this one of 
the old women near the pulpit exclaimed, ^* Out, out, ye fause thief, 
do ye say the mass at my lug ?" This was followed by clapping of 
hands, hisses, imprecations, and yellings of scorn. Lindsay, Bishop 
of Edinburgh, with a view to appease the tumult, ascended the 
pulpit, but immediately a stool was hurled at bis head by Janet 
Geddes. The Archbishop of St Andrews, the Lord Chancellor^ 
and others attempted but in vain to stem the torrent of popular 
indignation ; the greater part of the multitude now left the church 
at the persuasion of the magistrates, and the service was hurried 
over amid much interruption both from within and the crowd 
without In the adjoining church the disapprobation to the 
liturgy was as marked though not so violent ; while in the Grey- 
friars the service was given up. In the College Church the mi* 
nister laid aside the prayer book and gave his usual extempore 
prayer. The opposition during the afternoon's service was nearly 
as great as before, and the bishop was rudely assaulted in going 
home. The people in the country taking the alarm crowded to 
the city week after week. The Solemn League and Covenant was 
renewed, and many new articles, to suit the emergency of the 
present innovations, were added. A copy of this bond was sent 
to each of the counties of Scotland, and there numerously sub- 
scribed. That which belonged to Edinburgh, and which is still ex- 
tant, contains 50U0 subscriptions.* The agitation still spreading 
no less than 60,000 persons assembled in Edinburgh. Charles 
appointed a commissioner to treat with his offended subjects; 
but they were not to be overawed, and he at last gave in to their 
demands of abolishing the liturgy. To show the opinion of the 

* The original copy of Uie CoTenant is written on a skin of parchment four feet 
long, and three feet eight inches deep. It is completely crowded with names Cjp both 
sides. Where there is not room for the names at full length the initials are crowded 
into any spare space. 



EDINBURGH. 635 

community of Ediuburgb on this occasion, it may be mention* 
ed that two petitions were drawn up, one in the name of the 
men, women, children, and servants against the service book ; 
another, in that of the nobility, gentry, ministers, and burgesses 
against both the service book and book of canons. 

The King also was obliged to consent to a General Assembly 
being formed, which met at Glasgow in November 1638. Next 
year the covenanting party rose in arms ; Edinburgh Castle and 
Dalkeith House were faken possession of under the generalship 
of Lessly their leader, and money to carry on the war was eagerly 
furnished by all classes, Provost Dick, a rich citizen, advancing 
the sum of I^ 20,000 Sterling. In the meantime Charles de- 
spatched a fleet and army under the command of the Marquis of 
Hamilton, but before any active operations were commenced, a 
pacific treaty was concluded between both parties. 

In 1641 Charles visited Scotland with a view to restore peace 
and harmony. He was sumptuously entertained by the citizens 
of Edinburgh, at an expense of L. 12,000 Scots money, but his 
indecisive vacillating conduct procured him few friends on either 
side of politics. 

During the protectorship, Cromwell marched with an army in- 
to Scotland. In the autumn of 1650, he took possession of Ed- 
inburgh and Leith, and repaired and extended the fortifications 
at the latter place. On his taking possession of the city, the lord 
provost and magistrates, at the desire of the chancellor, fled to 
Stirling. That the place might not remain in a state of anarchy, 
the inhabitants assembled, and chose from among their number 
thirty of the most respectable citizens, whom they invested with 
powers to treat with Cromwell. On the whole he conducted him- 
self with great moderation, and in 1652, on th^ arrival of the En- 
glish commissioners, the magistrates were re-instated, and the for* 
mer constitution of the city was restored. On the restoration of 
Charles II. the city of Edinburgh sent his Majesty a present of 
L. 1000 as a testimony of its loyalty. This infatuated monarch, 
although he had previously signed the Solemn League and Cove- 
nant, and, on his mounting the throne, had bound himself, by his 
coronation oath, to preserve the religion of the Scots, yet, in one 
of his first acts of Parliament, immediately proceeded to overthrow 
it* The whole acts passed since 1633 were repealed, and Episco- 
pacy was again established and enforced under grievous penalties. 
The privy council assumed the power of banishing to the West 



^ 



686 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Indies all obnoxious persons — half the c\ergy of Scotland were de- 
posed for Boneonformtty to rites which their eonacienees disap- 
prored, and lai^ fines were imposed on all who did not give per- 
sonal aittendanoe on those church services. The rigid observance 
of Lent was enjoined ; and on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Salnr- 
days, BO person was permitted to eat flesh without a warrant from 
the privy council. Other most oppressive measures were also en- 
acted. All inn-keepers and burgesses of the town were ordered to 
give up the names of strangers residing with them, and the dis- 
arming laws of James VI. were rigorously enforced. But none 
of these laws were so galling to the people as the strict probifoition 
of canventideSi or all meetings for religious purposes, except those 
by law established. The parliament and a great proportion of the 
nobles, with the exception of the Earl of Argyle, hewed their 
heads submissively to the yoke ; but the great mass of liie people 
were determined at all hazards to support their civil and religious 
rights. The western counties rose in open rebellion ; and almost 
every district secretlycombined to oppose the measures of the court 
A terrible civil war ensued ; and executions and imprisonments, 
without regard to law or justice, or common humanity, stained the 
annals of the kingdom for several years. 

In 1660, the Duke of York, with his Dudiess and the nobility 
of Scotland, were entertained in the Pariiament House by the ma- 
gistrates ; which cost the city neariy L. 15,000 Scots. On die ac- 
cession of James to the throne, the citizens presented an address^ 
and, as usual, some more substantial tokens of their loyalty. But 
this mon^ch, like his predecessor, soon lost the confidence of the 
people, by his open adoption of Popery, and his arbitrary ads. 

No sooner was it known that the Prince of Orange had landed 
in England in 1688, and that the soldiery had been withdrawn to 
reinforce the English army, than the Presbyterians and other 
friends of the revolution flocked to Edinburgh from all quarters. 
The Earl of Perth, the chancellor, with the other adherents of die 
late monarch, fled from Edinburgh, and the • government fell into 
the hands of the popular party. A mob was soon formed ; drums 
were beat through the city ; and the Papists and Episcopalians now 
became the objects of public vengeance. The multitude proceed- 
ed to demolish the palace of Holyrood. They were opposed hy 
about one hundred men, who were stationed in the Abbey as the 
adherents of James. The mob pressing on, were fifed upon by 



EDINBURGH. 637 

this party, and twelve men were killed and several more wounded 
This made them for the present retreat ; but they soon return* 
ed with a warrant from one of the lords of the privy council, and 
headed by the magistrates and council with armed guards. The 
captain of the other party was now summoned to surrender, but 
on his refusal another skirmish took place, in which he and his 
men were defeated and forced to surrender. The royal chapel 
was then plundered of its ornaments, as well as some of the houses 
of the Catholics, amongst others, the house of the Earl of Perth. 

A convention of estates was held at Edinburgh in March 1689, 
which being converted into a parliament. Prelacy was abolished, 
and the Presbyterian form of church government again established 
in its place. 

The new government entertained such a jealousy of the College 
of Justice as to disarm all its members, commanding them, under 
the highest penalties, to deliver up their whole arms, with the ex* 
ception of their wearing swords, to the lord provost ; and several of 
James's adherents were sent to prison. 

The union of the two kingdoms, which took place in 1707, was 
so unpopular, that all parties joined in deprecating it. The ar» 
tides had been industriously concealed from the people, but on 
their being printed a universal clamour ensued. The Parliament 
Square, in which the parliament at that time was sitting; was filled 
with an immense multitude of people, who, with hootings and ex- 
ecrations, attacked the Duke of Queensberry, the Commissioner, 
and every partizan of the Union, while those who headed the op- 
position were followed with the loudest acclamations* The mob 
next proceeded to attack the house of the Lord Provost, Sir Pa* 
irick Johnston, who was an active promoter of the Union, but he 
saved himself by flight By nine at night the mob were in pos- 
session of the whole city, and a report prevailed that they were 
geing to shut up the ports. To prevent this the commissioner 
ordered a party of soldiers to take possession of the Nether Bow, 
and afterwards, with consent of the provost, sent a party of foot 
guards, who posted themselves in the Parliament Square, and the 
various streets of the city, by which means the tumult was sub- 
dued. Three regiments of foot were also quartered in the city to 
preserve tranquillity. 

The discontent at the Union, and the appointment of numerous 
English officials to public offices in Scotland had no small share 
in encouraging the Rebellion of 1715. Edinburgh, however, re- 

EDINBURGH. S8 



« ^ 



638 EDINBUBOHSHIBB. 

inained staunch to the Protestant dynasty. A committee of safety 
' was constituted) and the fortifications of the city put in proper or- 
der. An unsuccessful attempt was made by the rebels to gaia 
possession of the Castle ; they, faowe?er, took possession for a short 
time of the citadel of Leidi» but were dislodged on the arrival of the 
Duke of Argyle. On this occasion the run on the Bank of Scot- 
land was so great that all payments were suspended till the alarm 
subsided. The defensive operations for the city at this time 
amounted to L.1700 Sterling, which government afterwards re- 
paid* 

The council at this time resumed a project which they had 
previously formed for the improvement of Leith harbour, by exteDd- 
ing the pier and erecting wet and dry docks at the national ei« 
pense. The government would not, however, incur the expense, 
but encouraged the council in their plan of improvement, by pro* 
longing for nineteen years, the duty of two pennies Scots on the 
pint of ale and beer, sold within the city or liberties. The im* 
provements were accordingly in part executed, and the city debts, 
which were then about L.25000, were nearly doubled in the course 
of five years. 

In 1726 an extensive and destructive fire happened in the Lawd* 
maHiLet, which caused considerable loss of property. 

In 1736 occurred the famous Porteous mob, which transaction, 
well illustrates the spirit and temper of the Edinburgh public at 
this time. It is remarkable that although every exertion was made, 
and high rewards offered by the government for the detection of 
the individuals concerned in this outrage, no identificatioo of them 
was ever made ; and their names remain a mystery to this day. 
A bill passed both houses of parliament imposing a fine of 
L. 2000 on the city of Edinburgh for the benefit of Porteous's 
widow ; and the provost was declared incapable of ever serving 
government in any capacity. 

The year 1740 was characterised by gr^t distress and some 
disturbances among the lower orders, caused by a bad harvest, 
following a very severe winter and cold season. 

When the Rebellion of 1745 occurred, the town«»council of Ed- 
inburgh took immediate measures for the support of the existing 
government. The city walls were repaired, and a trench was dog 
from the north side of the castle to the North Loch. The city 
guard was increased ; arms given out to the inhabitants of Leith; 
and a regiment of troops rlJsed. The inhabitants also formed 



EDINBURGH. 639 

themselves into a volunteer corps ; and were supplied with arms 
from the castle. A regiment of dragoons, under the command of 
Colonel Gardiner, joined the city forces, when accounts were 
brought of the actual advance of the rebel army from Stirling* 
Notwithstanding all these preparations, however, the troops which 
were drawn up at Corstorphine fled in panic on the first sight of 
the enemy ; and after a hurried consultation of the citizens in the 
new church aisle, they resolved to surrender. Early in the morn- 
ing of the 16th September, a coach drove down streets, and the 
sentinels suspecting nothing, permitted it to pass. But on the gates 
of the Netherbow being thus opened, a party of Highlanders, who 
had reached the gate undiscovered, rushed in, secured this and 
the other gates of the city, took possession of the main guard, 
made the soldiers on duty prisoners, and seized upon the arms 
and ammunition belonging to the city. About noon of the 
same day, the Highland army, headed by the Chevalier, ar- 
rived in the King's Park, and encamped around Duddingstoo, 
Prince Charles taking possession of Holyrood House. Amid a 
vast multitude of spectators, many of whom assembled from a se* 
cret favouring of his cause, a royal proclamation was read at tha 
cross, declaring Prince Charles regent, and promising the free ex- 
ercise of the Protestant religion to the people, with a recognition, 
of all their other privileges. The inhabitants of the town and 
country were also commanded to deliver up their arms at the Pa- 
lace of Holyrood House, and the soldiers of the Highland 'army 
were strictly prohibited from all pillage or molestation of the citi- 
zens. A peremptory order also, on pain of military execution, 
was sent to the town council, requiring a certain quantity of stores 
for the army, of which payment w^s promised as soon as the pre- 
sent troubles should be over. These were accordingly furnishedi 
and an assessment of two shillings and sixpence on the pound on 
real rents within the city and liberties was imposed for defraying 
the expense. After the battle of Prestonpans, the Chevalier and 
his army again returned to Edinburgh, where, notwithstanding 
their victory, they still behaved in the same peaceable manner to« 
wards the citizens. General Guest meanwhile held possession of 
the Castle, and, with the exception of some skirmishing between 
the Highlanders and the troops there, and a slight cannonading, by 
which some houses were injured, no other circumstance of import- 
ance occurred till the Highland army finally quitted Edinburgh on 
their march to England, which took place on the 81st of October.^ 



642 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

market and High Street ; and Maitland says that one of the gates, 
still extant in his time in South Gray's Close, was only thirty 
paces south from the High Street. 

The burgesses, straitened for room within such narrow limitSi 
appear very early to have begun erecting houses upon the south 
slope of the hill without the wall, and along both sides of the road 
at the foot of it called the Common gait^ afterwards, by contrac* 
tion, Cowgate, and the Orassmarket ; and in consequence of the 
alarm occasioned by the battle of Flodden in 1513, these new 
districts were surrounded with a wall. 

In 1610 the town^coancii purchased from the laird of Inver* 
leith ten acres of the lands of High-rigs, which they inclosed with 
a wall, and which were annexed to the burgh by charter from 
King James VI., of date 30th July 1618. These are the grounds 
now occupied by Heriot*s Hospital, the Charity Workhouse^ and 
part of the Greyfriars churchyard. Beyond the walls, and along 
the road3 leading from the city gates, houses were speedily erect- 
ed. The streets now called West Port, Bristo, Potterrow, Flea- 
sance, are as old at least as the middle of the sixteenth century. 
The Causewayside and Crosscauseway date from the seventeenth. 

At a remote period the houses seem to have been almost eo- 
tirely built of wood, and indifferently thatched with straw or 
wooden boards. By an act of Parliament of 1621 we find that it 
was ordered that henceforth the houses should be covered with 
slates, lead, tiles or thack-stones. And in 1677, in consequence 
of frequent disasters by fire, the town council enacted, that no 
person presume to build a house with wood, or cover a new build- 
ing with thatch, but that, in time coming, all houses were to be 
built with stones, and covered with slates or tiles, under the pe- 
nalty of 500 merks. Neither did the public streets seem, in those 
times, to have been kept with much neatness, for we find several 
enactments against pigs being permitted to roam about them; 
and peremptory orders for the removal of *> stalks of heather, 
broom, and whins erected in closes or wynds, to the great discon- 
tent of the people, and danger to the neighbourhood from fires." 

The plague, too, having, on many occasions, made its appear^ 
ance in the city, and committed great ravages, caused several 
salutary enactments to be made for the comfort of the inhabitants. 
Among others, an attempt was made to light the streets by 
public lanterns or bowets. But this not succeeding, in 1^4 an 
order was issued that a candle in a lantern should be hung out at 



BDINBURQH. 643 

the firsi story of every tenemeDt of land, from the hour of fi?e in 
the evening till ten. 

From an order of the town-council in the year 1635 for attest- 
ing the inhabitants in 12,000 merks yearly, towards paying the 
ministers' stipends, we 6nd that the total number of houses within 
the city was 5071, and the annual rental L. 192,118 Scots. 

Edinburgh was first protected by a wall in the reign of James IL9 
who, in 1450, granted a charter to the citizens for the purpose, as 
also a power of assessing money to build one. This first wall only 
enclosed the town on part of the western and eastern ends, and 
southern side, for the houses on the west side of Leith Wynd served 
instead of a wall in that place, as did the North Loch on the 
north,-«which was made to save the expense of a wall on that 
side, by erecting a dam across the bottom at the foot of Halker- 
stone's Wynd. 

After this period the town having extended considerably, and 
the street of the Cowgate having been built without the first wall, 
it was found necessary for the farther protection of the city, espe* 
cially after the alarm at the defeat of Flodden, to rebuild and ex- 
tend a considerable portion of the walls. This extended wall 
commenced at the south-eastern edge of the Castle rock, and de^ 
seended the hill intersected by the West Port. It again ascended 
part of the High-rigs Hill, run along the gardens of Heriot's Hos- 
pital, and passed through Greyfriars churchyard to Bristo Port. 
From this it passed eastward intersected by Potterrow Port, then 
by the south side of the College and Infirmary to the Pleasance, 
thence to the Cowgate Port, and ascending St Mary's Wynd, it 
joined the other wall a little below the Netherbow. 

In 1560 it was farther extended from Leith Wynd to the east* 
em end of the North Loch. There were nine gates or ports in 
this wall, viz. the West Port, Bristo Port, Potterrow Port, Cow- 
gate Port, Netherbow Port, Hospital Postern Gate, College 
Church Postern, that of Halkerstone's Wynd, and the Dung Port 
in Leith Wynd. 

There were few leading streets in the old city, but the houses 
were carried along in narrow doses and wynds. In imitation of 
the Parisian architecture of the period, the houses were also built 
very high, consbting of from twelve to thirteen stories. These 
structures are called lands or tenements ; each flat or story con- 
stituted a distinct dwelling, and frequently formed a distinct free- 
hold, the access to each being by a stair common to the whole- 



^^ EDINBUBGHSHIBB. 

One object apparently for erecting such high bouses was to save 
the feu-duty or ground rent; but the practice at the time 
was carried to such an extent, that an order of council prohibited 
houses from being erected beyond a limited number of stories^ 
In former times the Cowgate, Horse Wynd, Canongate» and 
Castle Hill were Ibe fashionable residences of the nobility and 
gentry* 

From the middle of the 1 6th to the middle of the 18th century 
the city appears to have increased very little in any direction ; but 
after the latter date it began to be extended very rapidly, both t» 
the north and south. The first great improvements in the Old 
Town owed their origin to a very worthy and public*spirited citi- 
zen, Provost Drummond* In 1751, in consequence of the falling 
down of an old house six stories i» height, — ^by which a person was 
killed, the public attention was called to the state of Dtnmy of the 
other houses, which on inspection were found in a very insufficient 
state ; and were accordingly condemned to be taken down« A 
scheme was at the same time submitted to the convention of royal 
burghs and approved of, for the erection of several public build* 
ings on the sites of the eld houses. The first projected building 
was to contain apartments for the convention of royal bui^s — ^a 
council chamber for the magistrates and other public apartments. 
For carrying these improvements into execution, committees were 
appointed for each of the public bodies; the Town* Council, 
Courts of Session and Exchequer, and the Faculties of Advocates 
and the Writers to the Signet 

The first building erected was the Royal Exchange, the founda- 
tion stone of which was laid in 175di 

The next great improvement was the drainage of the North 
Loch and the erection of the North Bridge, by which a commu- 
nication was opened up between the Old Town and the grounds 
which were soon to be occupied by the streets of a new city. 

In 1763 the drainage of the North Loch commenced ; and the 
foundation of the North Bridge was laid. But the building of the 
latter did not commence till the year afterwards; nor, from some 
failure in its construction, was it completed or opened to. the pub- 
lic till 1772. 

In the meantime an extension ef the royalty towards the norths 
which had been formerly opposed by the county proprietors, was 
obtained by aet of Parliament in 1767; and the buildings in the 
Kew Town, were immediately commenced^ after a plan furnished 



BDINBUBGH. 645 

by Craig, an architect. By the year 1778 so successfully had the 
Dew building scheme succeeded, that the eastern part of ' Princes 
Street and Queen Street and the whole of St Andrew Square were 
erected. In process of time the buildings were extended west- 
wards and terminated by Charlotte Square. 

But the taste for new buildings being now excited among the 
citizens, the extension of the town to the north was rivalled by a 
similar extension towards the south. 

A private individual made a purchase of the grounds to the south 
of the Cowgate, and built thereon Brown's Square and George 
Square; the latter of which was begun in 1766. 

The rapid rise of these southern buildings now also suggested 
the idea of opening up a communication to them by means of a 
bridge across the Cowgate. At first this plan was opposed by the 
city corporations. But it was ultimately carried by an act of Par- 
liament, and South Bridge Street was opened for passengers in 
1788. In forming South Bridge Street, the lanes called Niddry's 
Wynd and Merlin's and Peebles Wynd, were pulled down ; as 
also one of the oldest stone houses in Edinburgh, which belonged 
to Sir Simon Preston of Craigmillar, the Lord Provost of Edin- 
burgh. In this house Queen Mary took refuge afier the defeat 
of her party at Carberry Hill. 

The building areas on each side of this bridge, now cleared of 
the old houses, were in so great demand, that higher prices were 
paid than perhaps for any spot of ground in Europe. Some of 
these areas sold at the rates of L» 96,000 per acre, L. 109,000» 
and some L. 150,000 per acre. 

In 1783 the Earthen Mound was commenced. It was formed 
by the accumulated rubbish and earth dug out of the foundations 
of the houses of the New Town. This earth was carried to the 
spot free of expense by the proprietors of the houses, as being the 
most convenient way of disposing of the otherwise useless soil. 

The erection of the Register OflBoe, the University buildings, 
and the Courts of Session and Exchequer, with the Libraries of 
the Advocates and Writers to the Signet, all followed in succession^ 
while new streets in various parts of the town, year after year, made 
their appearance. 

In 1814, a plan, which had long before been contemplated, of 
opening up a direct commuuication with the London Road by the 
south side of the Calton Hill, was put into execution. A consi- 
derable portion of the hill was cut through at a great expense, and 



646 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

the magni&oent arch of the Regent Bridge and the buildings of 
Waterloo Place were erected, together with the Calton JaiL 

The Regent Bridge was founded in 18 15, and opened for the 
first time in 1819, when the present King of Belgium, the Prince 
Leopold, made his entry by it into Edinburgh. 

The extension of the New Town made very rapid progress for 
several years. The streets to the north of Heriot Row were built* 
the Royal Circus, Moray Place, the streets on Raebum's grounds, 
Stockbridge, and lastly the Royal and Regent Terraces on the 
CSalton Hill. Besides these streets, several churches and other 
public buildings were erected during the same period. 

In 1826 a plan was suggested for opening up a communication 
with the Old Town towards the south, in a line with Bank Street 
and the Earthen Mound. An act of Parliament was procured for 
this purpose, assessing the inhabitants and proprietors of houses to 
defray the expense. In 1 827 a number of old houses were pulled 
down on the south side of the Castle Hi U and the foundation of 
George IV. Bridge laid* This bridge spans the Cowgate and 
consists of ten arches. An approach was also opened up and a 
bridge built on the south-west sid^ of the Castle Hill. 

The Dean Bridge, consisting of four lofty arches, of ninety*six 
feet span each, leads across the Water of Leith to the new sub* 
urbs of the Dean. 

It was now found, however, that the building of houses had gone 
on faster than the increase of population warranted; and since 
1827, very little extension of the city or suburbs has taken place. 
As a necessary consequence, also, of over production, a considerable 
decrease of house rents occurred ; and thus a farther discourage- 
ment was given to improvements, so that several of the newer 
streets remain yet incompleted. 

On the whole, however, the architectural operations and im- 
provements in Edinburgh during the last half century rival, both 
in extent and beauty, those of any other city in the kingdom ; 
and reflect no less credit on the public enterprise of the inha* 
bitants, than on the taste and science of the architects employed. 
' Territorial /?zt«if.— Edinburgh is divided into the Old and 
New Towns. All (hat portion of the city which lies to the south 
of the hollow, formerly occupied by the North Loch, and now 
constituting the Princes Street Gardens, belongs to the former, 
while the latter comprehends all the streets to the north of the 
same. 



EDINBURGH. 647 

The Old Town is situated on a high ridge of ground with one 
principal line of street, the High Street, extending frokn the Cas- 
tle to Holy rood Palace, being a distance of about 5570 feet. Pa- 
rallel to this runs the Cowgate, while numerous closes and wynds 
extend on each side of the High Street, slanting along the decli- 
vities of the ridge. The elevated situation and the irregular 
height and antiquity of the houses on this ridge form a very 
picturesque appearance ; and contrast finely with the more mo- 
dem and regular structures in the New Town. The oldest por- 
tion of the New Town forms a regular parallelogram, built upon 
a nearly level surface, and extending 3000 feet in length by 1090 
in breadth. ' Princes Street, George Street, and Queen Street 
' run parallel to each other, and are intersected at right angles by 
Hanover Street, Frederick Street, and others. The northern and 
more recently built portion still retains the general parallelism of 
the streets, but more variety is introduced by crescent, circle, 
and octagon. 
* As the citv extended its dimensions, various acts of Parliament 
were passed extending the bounds of the royalty. Such were the 
acts of 1767, 1785, 1786, 1809, 1814. 

The city now consists of the following districts :*— 

L The Ancient Royalty, being all the streets within the old 
city walls, viz. Castlehill, Lawnmarket, High Street, Nether Bow, 
St Mary Wynd, Cowgate, Grassmarket, Candlemaker-row, Society, 
Brown's Square, Argyle Square, College, Infirmary, Surgeons' 
Square, and North and South Bridge Streets — also Heriot's Hos- 
pital, Charity Workhouse, Greyfriars, and several houses without 
the West Port and Nether Bow. 

. II. The Extended Royalty, being all the grounds shaded with 
a yellow line in Grainger and Miller's plan.* 

These two districts are what is properly called the Giy of Edin- 
burgh^ and the election of town-councillors is confined to the par- 
liamentary electors within them. But the ancient burgh^ and the 
jurisdiction of the city magistrates also includes other places, not 
within the royalty, viz. — I. The common mills of the burgh at the 
Water ofLeithy which now belong to the corporation of bakers, 
and lie in the Dean, to the westward of the great bridge lately 
erectc^d. 2. The Burgh Loch and Burgh Muir, which include 
the Meadows, Bruntsfield Links, Bruntsfield, Greenhill, Morn- 

* Plan of the parliamentary boundaries of Edinburgh by Messrs Grainger and Mil- 
ler, 1828. 



048 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ingside^ Canaan, Whitebouse, Grange, Newington, RosebalT, 
Mayfield and Commonrmyre, (now called by corruption Cameron^ 
myre.) 3. The Harbour and Shore of Leith. All which are 
parts of its ancient patrimony bestowed upon the burgh by King 
David I., or at least acquired prior to the date of King Robert 
Bruce's charter in 1329. And besides these, the following placets 
have also been annexed, at different times, to the sheriffdom of 
the city, and the jurisdiction of its magistrates, viz. — 

1. The Town and Links of South Leith, and the Harbour^ 
Links, and part of the town of Newhaven, in 1603. 2. The 
King's Work of South Leith, in 1647. 3» Easter and Wester 
Fortsburgh, in 1649. 4. The Citadel of North Leith, in 1663. 

IIL The Regality of Canongate, which includes the suburb so 
called; St John's Hill^ and Pleasance; North Leith, and the 
Coalhill of South Leith ; the superiority of which was acquired 
by the city of Edinburgh in 1689. 

IV. The Barony of Calton or Caldton, formerly called Wester 
Restalrig, viz. the Calton, Caltonhill, and North Back of Canon- ' 
gate ; Yardheads, Mills, and Millflat of Leith ; the superiority of 
which was acquired by the city by purchase in ] 725, from the then 
proprietor. Lord Balmerino. 

No. IIL and IV. have never been annexed to the sheriffdom 
of the city, and have magistrates of their own, but they both, as 
well as No. I. and II., are understood to be included in the phrase, 
<< The City of Edinburgh and Liberties thereof;" and the whole 
four, (excepting the Burgh mills, loch, and muir,) form what is 
now called the *^ County of the City" of which the Lord Provost 
is Her Majesty's Lieutenant, for militia purposes. 

V. The Eight Southern Districts comprise all the buildings to 
the south of Drummond Street, the College, and I^auriston* 
They are without the royalty ; and of course exempted from pay- 
ment of the burgh customs and ministers' annuity, and the juris- 
diction of the city magistrates ; but in consequence of a provision 
to that effect, in the act of Parliament for building the South 
Bridge, they pay a proportion of the city-cess or land-tax ; and 
also the impost-tax of one per cent., in lieu of impost on wines 
and foreigq liquors. 

VI. By the Burgh Reform Act the privilege of electing the mem- 
bers of Parliament for the city of Edinburgh was extended to a 
large district surrounding the city and liberties, and including them, 
forming an irregular polygon of nearly ten miles in circumference 



EDINBURGH. 649 

with St Giies^ Church in the centre; and it is in contemplation 
to consolidate the whole territory into one municipality. The 
bounds of police have already been extended over the parliamen- 
tary district. 

The extent of the city actually built on is about two miles from 
west to east; and about the same from north to south. 

In 1663 the city was divided into six parishes; and in 1753, 
according to Maitland, there were twelve churches, including one 
in the Castle. Maitland also enumerates the streets, which 
amounted to twelve. These were Bristo Street, Canongate, Cow- 
gate, Grassmarket, High Street, Lawnmarket, Lauriston, Luck- 
enbooths, Newington, Pleasance, Portsburgh, Potterrow. Milne's 
Square was the only square then existing. There were 22 wynds, 
& courts or small squares, and 260 closes. 

Number of houses and rentals within the city and liberties at the 

following dates : — 

Year. Houses. Rental. 

1635, 5071 L.230,538 Scots. 

16H8, 6012 312,000 

1751, 6845 377,964 

The annual value of real property in Edinburgh and Leith, as 
taken in 1815 for the income tax, was estimated at L.4d7,000; in 
1841 the number of inhabited houses in Edinburgh was, according 
to the census, 22,523; of uninhabited, 1708; and building, 21. 

i7«yi/.»— The rents of single floors or flats, in what are called com* 
mon stairs, range from L.10 to L.40 per annum. The rents of 
whole houses, or self-contained houses, vary from L.40 to L.80 
and L.150, according to size and locality. The local taxes 
amount to about 25 per cent on the rent. 

Population* — We have no accurate means of ascertaining what 
was the actual population of Edinburgh previous to the government 
census of 1 80 1 • The above estimates of the number of houses with in 
the city and liberties for three different periods, may, however, af- 
ford some data. If we take the number of persons in each family to 
amount at an average to five, by multiplying the number of houses 
by five, and perhaps allowing from 1000 to 2000 additional for 
soldiers and invalids in hospitals, &c. we shall have a pretty near 
approximation to the truth. Maitland reckons the iEiverage num- 
ber in a family at 5^, and Arnot at 6. In a communication from 
Dr Blair in the former Statistical Account, the population, in- 
cluding Leith, in 1722, is estimated at 40,420. Mr Arnot reck- 



650 



EDINBURGHSHIRE. 



ODS the population in 1775 at 84,236, which enumeration ap- 
pears to have been too high. 

The parliamentary census for Edinburgh and Leith is as fol- 
low :— 

In 1801, 
1811, 
1821, 
1831, 
1841, 

The population returns of 1841 for Edinburgh are as follow : — 



82,560 
102,987 
13S,235 
162,403 
163,72fi 



Ancient and extended royalty, 
Canongate, 
8t Guthbert'i 
MiliUry in Castle, 



Males. 

24,537 

4,169 

31,726 

825 

61,257 



Females. 

31,799 

4,763 

40,178 

197 

76,937 



Total. 

56.336 

8,932 

71,904* 

1,028 

138,194 



Taking the population of Edinburgh and Leith at 168,726, 
there are 792 employed in manufactures, 19,764 in trades and re- 
tail business, 7463 bankers, professional men, capitalists, 4446 
labourers, 1422 male servants, 12,429 female servants, 4113 re- 
mainder of males of various kinds. 

There are in the county of Mid-Lothian, and it maybe presumed 
chiefly inhabiting Edinburgh, 9012 English and 7100 Irish. 

From a table constructed by Dr Stark, the registered deaths 
in Edinburgh for the last five years were, (with a few trifling ex- 
ceptions,) — 

1840, . a988 

1841, 3888 

1842, . 4154 
184a 4641 
1844. . 4264 

According to this table, the deaths in 1841 were 1 in every 
34.3 of the population. 

The population of the different parishes in 1841 was as follows. 
The quoad sacra churches are given in Italics. 

2546 
8105 
2481 

2581 

2785 
2140 
1800 
6724 
2776 
2949 
6754 
2216 
2dl4 
24S6' 



St Andrew's, 


4473 


St Lvk^iy 


Canongate, 


4792 


Greenside, 


LeUh Wyndy . 


1878 


New Greyfriars, 


New Street^ . 


19.12 


Old Greyfriars, ) 


St Cuthbcrt'8, 


44^598 


GtiOU:, \ 


St Bcmard^ty 


4751 


High Kirk, . 
St John's, 


SueeUuehi 


8180 


StDaviS9i 


2910 


Lady Yeafei**, 


Draiit 


1920 


St Mary's, 

New North Kirk, . 


Lady Glenorcby'a, • 


2157 


MonttngiUUj . 


1649 


Old Kirk, 


NexBingtOHj 


sdio 


St Stephen"^, 


St FavJ^iy 


2845 


Tolbootb« 


A. xhurgh^ 


8688 


Trinity College Kirk, 


St Georgel, . 


8518 


Tron Kirk, 



EDINBURGH. 651 

III. — Public Buildings and Monuments. 

The Castle. — The highly picturesque rock od which the Castle 
is built is a mass of basaltic greenstooe, which rises, with almost 
perpendicular sides, to an elevation of 443 feet above the level of 
the sea. There can be little doubt, from the bold and commanding 
situation, as well as from the inaccessible nature of this eminence, 
that it was the original point of attraction, around which the an- 
cient borough began to rise, and around which as a centre the in- 
creasing city still continues to extend. On the south and western 
sides, indeed, the rock is so perpendicular, and the base so hollowed 
out and marshy, that previous to the use of artillery it must have 
been from these quarters inaccessible. On the east side, a long 
sloping terrace, guarded by a gate and portcullis, communicates 
only with the city. The flat summit of the rock includes an area of 
about seven English acres. On this highest part the oldest buildings 
of the Castle stand. These are in the form of a quadrangle 100 
feet in length. The eastern part of this square was appropriated as 
royal apartments, where the monarchs occasionally took up their resi- 
dence in times of trouble. In the front wall there is a date, 1556, 
which probably indicates the period of some additions or improve- 
ments. In a small room on the ground floor, in the south-east 
comer, Queen Mary gave birth to James VI. on the 19th June 
1566. The roof is divided into four compartments, with a thistle 
at each comer, and in the centre an imperial crown, with the ini- 
tials M. R. The south side of the square, now converted into 
barrack-rooms, contained a large hall, where« the Scottish Parlia- 
ment anciently sat, and on the north side was a church. 

Crawn-Rootn. — In an upper room, in the north-east comer, 
the crown and regalia were deposited, on the 26th March 1707. 
Here they lay in a large oaken chest, unregarded, for many years ; 
and indeed strong doubts were entertained whether they were ac- 
tually deposited in this chest or not To clear these doubts, a 
commission was appointed by the Prince Regent in 18I8» chiefly 
on the representation of Sir Walter Scott, with powers to open the 
ehest The commissioners forthwith proceeded to do so, and 
brought to light the long-bidden regalia. The crown, which is 
formed of pure gold, is nine inches in diameter, and six inches in 
height, from the under arch to the top of the cross, by which it 
is surmounted. The cap is of purple velvet, turned up with er- 
mine ; and the crown is studded with various kinds of jewels, chiefly 
diamonds, amethysts, and pearls. It bears the initials J. R. V. 



652 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

The sceptre is of silver, double gilt, surmounted with a crystal 
globe, tdpped with a large pearl. It is 34 inches io length, and 
bears the initials J. R. V. The sword of state is Bve feet long, 
and of elegant workmanship. On the blade is indented in gold 
letters Jtdius IL P., it having been a present from that Pope to 
James IV. 

Adjoining the old buildings on the east side is a semicircular 
platform, called the Half-moon Battery ; here is an ancient and very 
deep well, dug through the solid rock. The main guardroom is 
also placed here, and a modern chapel, built in 1818. Lower 
down the hill, on the south-west side, is a range of modem 
buildings, erected in 1796, containing the governor's and officers* 
quarters, the armoury, and additional barracks. In front of this, 
and lower down, is another range of guns, called Argyle's Battery. 
Here also is to be seen the celebrated piece of Scottish ordnance 
called Mons Meff, which, after having paid a long visit to the 
Tower of London, was restored to its former quarters in 1828b 
A bronze statue of the late Duke of York was also placed here a 
few years ago. 

The entrance to the Castle is guarded by a large outer gate, 
with a bridge and dry ditch, and two inner gates, with portcullises. 
Within the first gate is a guardroom and water reservoir ; without 
is a spacious drill-ground. There are residing within the Castle a 
deputy-governor, fort-major, storekeeper, master gunner, and 
chaplain, with generally a regiment of infantry. About 2000 men 
can be .accommodated in the present buildings. 

Although in rude ages this Castle must have been a place of 
great strength, it would now be easily demolished by artillery, no 
portion of the ramparts or buildings being bomb-proof, except the 
powder magazine. The date of its first erection is buried in obscu- 
rity. Fordun mentions that in 1093 Queen Margaret, the widow of 
Malcolm Canmore, died in the Castle a few days after her husband 
was killed, and that in the same year it was besieged by Donald Bane, 
the brother of the slain monarch, assisted by the King of Norway. 
Since this period, it has been frequently used as the temporary 
residence, or the retreat from dangers, of several of our Scottish 
monarchs. Sometimes, too, it has served as their prison, while 
under the power of some one or other of the turbulent and lawleas 
leaders of the aristocratic parties, that so frequently convulsed the 
kingdom. 

The royal stables and other offices occupied the ground to tbe 



EDINBURGH. ^^3 

south and west of the Castle, the places still retainiog the name of 
KiDgsbarns ; the gardens were in the hollow ground around the 
base of the rock, the middle part of which was a morass, called 
the North Loch. This ground has since been thoroughly drained, 
and converted into pleasure gardens. The view from the higher 
grounds in these gardens, as well as from the Castle walls, is very 
beautiful, including the windings of the Forth on one side, and 
the Pentland Hills and the valley of Mid«Lothian on the other. 

Hclyrood Palace. — Early in the twelfth century, the pious mag- 
nificence of David L raised a splendid church and abbey on this 
spot. Afterwards it became the frequent resort of the Scot- 
tish monarchs; but we have no means of ascertaining at what 
period buildings were erected constituting it a palace and distinct 
residence of the sovereign. The oldest parts of the present struc- 
ture are the remains of the tower at the north-east corner, erected 
by James V. in 1528, containing Queen Mary^s apartments. In 
the minority of Queen Mary, a considerable part of the old pa- 
lace was burned by the English ; but it was soon after repaired 
and enlarged, and then contained five courts. The west or outer- 
most court was larger than the others. It was bounded on the 
east by the front of the palaoe, which occupied the same space 
with its present front, and also extended farther south. The three 
remaining sides of the outer court were bounded by walls; and at 
the north-west corner there was a gate or Gothic porch, arched 
inside, wtth two round towers on each side of the entrance. This 
was also the gate of the adjoining abbey, and was taken down in 
1766. The next court occupied the same space as the central 
court of the present palace, and was surrounded with buildings* 
On the south there were two smaller courts, also surrounded with 
buildings; and on the east there was another court, which was 
bounded on the north by the chapel royal, on the west by a line of 
buildings, occupying the same ground as the east side of the pre- 
sent palace, on the south by a row of buildings, which are now 
demolished, and on the north by a wall, which divided it from St 
Ann's Yards. 

The soldiers of Oliver Cromwelt made great havoc of the pa- 
lace, burning the greater part of it. At the Restoration, Charles 
11. ordered it to be rebuilt, after a plan by Sir William Bruce, in 
1671. The walls of the eastern side, and other parts, have been 
of late yean renewed and repaired, and the grounds immediately 
contiguous have been cleared and railed in. 

KDINBUROH. X t 



654 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

The palace is of a quadrangular fornn, with a court in the centre, 
surrounded by .piazzas. The grand front consists of two lai^ 
circular turreted towers at each end. A lower gallery, with a flat 
roof, extends from each of these^ in the middle of which is the 
entrance gate, supported by four pillars, and bearing the royal 
arms ; above which rises a cupola, supporting an imperial crown. 
The front walls of the interior quadrangles are ornamented with 
numerous Doric pillasters ; and the whole square presents a very 
noble aspect. In the corner of the north quadrangle are Queen 
Mary's apartments, preserved in nearly the original state in which 
she left them. Her bed of crimson damask, chairs, tapestry, and 
other furniture, are still preserved ; and the little supper-room, where 
the conspirators entered by a private stair, and dragged out the un- 
fortunate Rizzio to be barbarously murdered, still remains. This 
apartment, about 12 feet square, is immediately adjoining and 
communicates with her bed-room. On the same side of the pa- 
lace is a large hall, called the picture gallery, disBgured by a num- 
ber of wretched daubs, purporting to be a series of the Scottish 
kings. On the south side is another large apartment, where 
George IV. held his levees in 1822. The only ornament here 
is an excellent full length portrait of that mdnarch in the High- 
land costume, by Sir David Wilkie. 

The Duke of Hamilton, who is hereditary keeper of the palace, 
has apartments here. Prince Charles Edward took up his tempo- 
rary abode in Holy rood in 1745, and for a brief space made the 
palace the gay scene of mimic royalty. For a long time it re- 
mained deserted, till in 1793 the French revolution drove the 
Count De Artois to seek^an asylum in it. He again returned in 
1830 as the deposed Charles X., and lived here with his exiled 
court for about twelve months. The Earl of Haddington, who 
was hereditary keeper of the adjoining King's Park, has now ceded 
his privilege to her Majesty, and measures are in progress for far- 
ther improving this royal demesne. 

Caltan Hill. — This conical eminence bounds the New Town on 
the east In the year 1816, when, in consequence of the depres- 
sed state of trade, and the higfi price of provisions, a great propor- 
tion of the labouring poor were in distressed circumstances, a sub- 
scription was raised for their relief, and the able bodied were em- 
ployed in forming walks around this hill, and around Salisbury 
Crags. The view from the Calton Hill of the Firth of Forth and 
of the opposite shores of the Fife coast is exceedingly beautifuL 



EDINBURGH. 655 

Public Monuments. — NehovCs Monument is the oldest and mo^t 
conspicuous erection on the highest point of this hill. It does 
not, however, exhibit that classical taste in design which afterwards 
characterized the architectural monuments of this city. 

The National Monument was first suggested at a meeting of the 
Highland Society of Scotland in 1616. The proposed object was 
to erect by public subscription a monument, comprising a church 
and public cemetery, in commemoration of the battle of Waterloo, 
and of the warriors who fell there. About L.6000 were immedi- 
ately subscribed. It was resolved that the model of the proposed 
building should be the Parthenon at Athens, and in 1822 the sub- 
scribers were incorporated by act of Parliament, and were em- 
powered to raise a sum of money not exceeding L.50,000, in shares 
of L.25 each. On the occasion of the visit of His Majesty George 
IV. to Edinburgh in 1822, the foundation stone of the build* 
ing was laid with great pomp and procession by commissioners 
appointed by that monarch, the Duke of Hamilton, as Grand 
Master Mason of Scotland, officiating. It was found, however, that, 
as had happened in similar cases before with the citizens of Edin- 
burgh, the design was by far too expensive for the means. In two 
years the whole funds did not amount to more than about L. 18,500 ; 
and after mature deliberation, it was resol ved to go on with the build- 
ing in the meantime, to the extent of this sum. The parallelograni 
of the foundation ground was inclosed, and, from the plan of Mr 
Playiair, architect, thirteen of the splendid columns were com- 
pleted, built of the beautiful and compact sandstone of Craigleith 
quarry. In this unGnisfaed state the building .now remains.. 

Monuments lo the late Professors Playfair and Dugald Stewart 
also adorn the hill. 

Bum^ Monument. — A circular building designed by Hamilton, 
and containing inside a bust of the poet by Flaxman, is situated on 
the edge of the Calton Hill, opposite the High School. 

Melville Monument. — This elegant pillar, a copy of Trajan's 
column at Rome, was erected in St Andrew's Square in 1821, 
to the memory of Lord Melville, 6rst Lord of the Admiralty. 
The sum for its erection, about L.6000, was raised by subscrip- 
tion, chiefly bygentlemen connected with the navy. The height of 
the column is 186 feet, the diameter at the base 12 feet. A statue, 
14 feet high, surmounts the pillar. 

Statues* — A bronze statue of George IV., and a similar statue of ' 
Pitt, both by Chantry, are situated in George Street ; and a statue 



^56 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

of the Earl of HopetouD is placed in front of the Royal BaoL A 
colossal statue of her Majesty Queen Victoria, sculptured by 
Steele, was completed in 1844, and now adorns the summit of the 
Royal Institution. 

Monument to Sir Walter Scott — The foundation stone of this 
monument was laid in 1840, in the ground in front of Princes 
Street. The monument consbts of a Gothic aisle, surmounted 
by a spire, from a design by Mr Kemp, architect A statue by 
Steele is to be placed in the arched aisle. 

Equestrian Statue of the Duke of WeOingtmu — This fine ' 
bronzed statue is to be erected on a granite pedestal immediately 
in front of the Register Office. 

IV.^— -£CCL£SIA8T1CAL StATB. 

The oldest religious establishment in Edinburgh, of which we 
have any mention, is St Giles, which, in the year 854, is enume- 
rated by Simeon of Durham as one of the churches belonging to 
the Bishoprick of Liodisfem, or Holy Island. Numerous other 
chapels and religious houses were afterwards founded, but there 
remains now few traces of any of these. The chapel of Holy* 
rood, St' Anthony's chapel, founded by the Knights-Templars, 
the church of Restalrig, the Trinity church, and St Gile^ are 
now the only remnants of ancient architecture in the city or neigh- 
bourhood. We shall here enumerate those religious houses for- 
merly existing in Edinburgh, but which were abolished at or before 
the period of the Reformation : — 

Church of St Mary in the FieUL-^lL}m was a large handsome 
building in which a provost and ten prebendaries officiated. It 
was adjoining to, and probably built about the same time as ibe 
Monastery €f Black Friars. This monastery was instituted in 
1280 by Alexander IL It occupied the situation of the old High 
School, while St Mary's church was on the ground now occupied 
by the University. The house of the provost of this noooastery 
was the Kirk of Field where Damley was murdered.— iUanaflery 
of Greyfriars was situated on the south side of the Grassmarket, 
opposite the West Bow. It was founded by James L for the eo- 
couragement of religion and learning* Cornelius of Zurich, a 
Franciscan of Cologne, of great learning, along with others, 
invited from Germany ; and on their arrival the house for their 
ception was fitted up with such ooiagnificence that the modest 
friars were with difficulty persuaded to occupy it. — Maimm ZHem 



EDINBURGH* 657 

on<f Hospital of St Mary Magdalene. This was a small house for 
Uie support of seven poor meo, and was situated to the east of 
Grey friars. — Oratory of Mary of Lorraine. This was situated 
in Blyth's Clo8e» north side of Castle Hill. — Another private 
chapel was in Tod's Close. — Chapel of Holyrood and Maison Dieu. 
The former was situated in the churchyard of St Giles; the 
Utter in Bell's Wynd. — St Manfs Chapel^ founded in 1505 by 
Elisabeth Countess of Ross, stood about the middle of Niddry 
Wynd. It now belongs to the incorporation of wrights and masons. 
— Convent of Cistertian Nuns was situated in St Mary's Wynd. 
-^^Hospkal of our Lady was founded in 1479 by Bishop Spens 
of Aberdeen, for the support of twelve poor men. It was at the 
foot of Leith Wynd, and is now called Paul's Work. Having come 
ipto the hands of the town-council, it was by them converted into 
a workhouse, and is now dwelling-houses.— -CAape/ of St Ninian. 
This was situated to the south-east of the present Register 
OfiBce. The date of its foundation is unknown.— -^Si^ Thomases 
Hospital was founded in the reign of James V., by George 
Cleghorn, Bishop of Dunkeld. The building was situated to 
the west of the Water Gate. The endowment was for the 
support of chaplains and beadsmen, with candles, &c., for masses 
for the souls of the King of Scots, the founder, and others men- 
tioned in the endowment— CAap«& of St Mary^ St Roque^ and 
St John the Baptist. These and several others were in the parish 
of St Cuthbert's. St Roque's burying ground, in the Borough- 
muir, was the place of burial of those who died of the plague.-— 
Monastery of St Catharine of Sienna was founded by Lady Si 
Clair of Roslin, and situated south of the Meadows, where the 
site still retains the name, corrupted into Sheens, The nuns were 
Dominicans. At the Refor^oaiion the town-council appropriated 
the revenues, and the nuns were pensioned at the request of 
Queen Mary. — There was another convent dedicated to St Mary 
of Placeniia^ in the situation now called the Pleasance. — Chapel 
of KniyhtS" Templars. This was on a rising ground. Holy 
Maunty corrupted into MoutU Hoofyj to the east of Newington.—* 
Church of Bestalrigj situate in the valley, a mile east of 
Holyrood, was founded by James IIL, in honour of the Trinity. 
James V. placed in it a dean, nine prebendaries, and two chanters. 
The roof and part of the walls were demolished at the Reforma- 
tion ; but it has been lately rebuilt and converted into a preaching 
station connected with South Leith. — 67 Anthony's Chapel and 



658 EDINBURGHSIIIRB* 

Hermitage* A mutilated portion of tlie time-worn walls of this 
chapel remains ; but no history to tell at what period (hey were 
founded. There was a monastery dedicated to St Anthony in 
South Leith, of which this chapel was an appendage. St Art'- 
thoni/s Wdl^ celebrated in Scottish ballad, is a spring of water a 
little to the west of the ruin. — Monastery of Carmelite Friars^ 
and Hospital of Greenside, founded by the town-council io 
1526, and dedicated to the holy cross; in 1591 converted into 
a leper hospital, and seven lepers admitted into it in one day. 
— St Giles* Church, St Giles, the tutelar saint of the city, is said 
to have been a native of Greece, and born in the sixteenth century, 
of illustrious parentage. He afterwards travelled into France, 
founded a monastery in Languedoc, and lived a life of great sanc- 
tity. In the reign of James II., Preston of Gorton procured one 
of the real or supposed arm bones of this saint, and presented it 
to the magistrates of Edinburgh, which precious relic was kept for 
many years enshrineJ in a case of silver. It is probable that the 
church of St Giles was founded some time previous to the year 
854. It is distinctly recognised in a charter of David II. in ld59. 
It was at first simply a parish church, of which the Bishop of Lin- 
disfern was patron. To him the abbot and canons of Dunfermline 
^cceeded in the patronage ; and to these again the town-council 
of Edinburgh. In 1466 it was erected into a collegiate church 
by James III. The chapter consisted of a provost, curate, sixteen 
prebendaries, a minister of the choir, four choristers, a sacristan, 
and beadle. It contained no less than forty altars, dedicated to 
various saints, and erected by corporate bodies in the town, and 
other individuals. The church is a. Gothic structure, 206 feet 
in length by 1 1 feet in breadth. In the centre is a square 
tower, terminated by open stone work in the form of an imperial 
crown. The height of this tower and spire is 160 feet. At 
the reformation this church was spared at the request of the 
magistrates ; but all its trumpery, including the arm^bone of 
St Giles and its silver case, were sold for the benefit of the 
corporation, and for remodelling the church. Soon after this 
period the church was divided into four separate places of wor- 
ship; and in 1585 the bell of the Abbey of Lindores was pur- 
chased for L.55 Scots, and placed in the spire. It was in this 
church that in 1643 the Solemn League ai>d Covenant was sub* 
scribed by the committee of estates of Parliament, the commis- 
sion of the church, and the English commissioners. Formerly 



EDINBUUGH. * 669 

fhe General Assembly held their sittings in the west aisle of this 
church, and when in IH3d a thorough repair and renewal of the 
whole edifice was accomplished, a new Assembly hall was formed. 
It was found, however, tiiat this hall, when finished, was imper- 
fect ; in so far as the speakers could not be heard properly. An- 
other and commodious elegant hall has since been erected near 
George IV. Bridge, which is used also as a church for the Tol- 
booth parish. 

St Giles now contains the High Church, in which the magi- 
strates, the Lords of Session, and the Lord High Commissioner, 
have appropriate seats ; the Old Kirk ; and the New North. 

The ground now occupied by Parliament Square formerly was 
the burial ground of St Giles. Here the celebrated John Knox * 
was interred. Within the walls of the church the Regent Murray 
also lies buried, and the gallant Marquis of Montrose. On the 
outside of the north wall of the High Church is a monument to 
Lord Napier, the Inventor of Logarithms. 

Formerly, around the walls of St Giles, which looked towards 
the Parliament Square, a number of small shops were placed; 
and this seems to have been a fashionable and distinguished 
locality, for we find an order of the Council prohibiting any kind of 
shops to be placed there but those of goldsmiths, jewellers, and 
watch-makers. These have all been swept away in the modern 
improvements. 

Originally the city appears to have been comprehended in one 
parish ; and in the time of James VI. the ministers had manses in 
the Parliament Close, where they all lived. James, however, 
during his frequent disputes with the clergy, took their manses 
from them and obliged tbem to live dispersed in the city. 

In 1625 the city was divided into four parishes. In 1641 it 
was further divided into six parishes ; and several new churches 
were built to accommodate the citizens. In 16*25 Charles I. be- 
stowed on the town-council the right of patronage to all the 
churches in Edinburgh. More than a century afterwards, this 
right was contested, and a legal decision given in favour of the 
council, who still retain the patronage. 

In 16*33 Charles I. erected Edinburgh into an Episcopal see ; 
including within the diocese all the country south of the river 
Forth, which had formerly belonged to the Archbishoprick of St 
Andrews. The chapter consisted of a bishop, dean, and twelve 
prebendaries ; St Giles being converted into a cathedral. This 
state of matters continued for six years, when Episcopacy was 



660 EDINBUROHSHIfiE* 

abolished during the protectorale. On the restoration, it was again 
introduced, but finally abolished at the revolution* 

The ancient royalty is now divided into ten parishes, m« 
I. Tolbooth Parish. 2. High Church Parish. 8. Trinity Col- 
lege Parish. 4. Old Church Parish. 5. Tron Church Parish. 
6. New North Parish. * 7. St John's Parish. & Wester, or New 
Greyfriars I^rish. 9. Easter, or Old Greyfriars Parish. 10. 
Lady Tester's Parish. 

The extended royalty contains five parishes. 1. St Andrew's 
Parish* 2. St George's Parish. 3. St Mary's Parish. 4. St 
Stephen^s Parish* 5. Greenside Parish. There is also St Cuth- 
bert^s Parish and Canongate Parish. 

The Quoad Sacra Churches are, St Bernard's, Buecleuch, St 
David's, the Dean, Lady GienoKcby's, Merniagside, NewiagtcHS 
St Pawl's, and Roxburgh, all originally part of St Cutbbert^s 
parish^ St Luke's, and the Gaelic Chapel. The Leith Wynd 
Church and New Street Churches are within the parish of Canon* 
gate. 

Holyrood Abbey. — This abbey was founded in 1128 by David I. 
According to the traditionary legend, the king, in hunting in 
the forest of Drumselch, near Edinburgh,, was attacked by a larg» 
hart. While in the act of defending himself from the lurions attacks 
of the animal, a miraculous cross slipped into his hand, which so 
frightened the stag that he immediately fled. That same night,, 
while asleep in the Castle of Edinburgh, David was instructed ia 
a dream to found an establishment fi)r the canons regular of St 
Augustine on the spot where his life was saved. Accordingly 
the abbey was built, and liberally endowed by a royal charter^ 
which stil) exists in the archives of the town-eoiincil. By this 
charter were bestowed on the abbey the church of Edinbuigh 
Castle, those of St Cuthbert's, Corstorphine, Liberton, and Airth 
in Stirlingshire ; the priories of St Mary*^ Isle in Galloway,-— of 
Blantyre in Clydesdale, of Rowadill in Ross, and of Crusay,. 
Oronsay, and Colonsay in the Western Islands. The charter also 
granted to the canons the privilege of erecting a borough between 
Holyrood and the town of Edinburgh, Curming the CAnongate» 
with a right to hold markets in it. They had also grants of lands 
in other places, with a most extensive jurisdiction, and a right of 
trial by duel, and fire and water ordeal. They had also certain 
levenues payable out of Exchequer and other funds, with the fish- 
ings, and the privilege of erecting mills on the Water of Laith^ 



EDINBURGH. 661 

which are ttill called CaDonmills. The Canongate aims are a 
hart's head, surmouDted by a cross, in allusion to the legend al- 
ready mentioned. Besides these original grants, others were 
added by succeeding sovereigns, so that this became the most 
opulent religious foundation in Scotland. 

At the Reformation, its annual revenues were — 

Wbeia, . • • . 442bolli. 

Oau. seo — 

C«poDii, .... 500 

Hens, .... 24 

Salmon, .... 24 

Sal^ .... 12 loads. 

Money, , L.250. 

The ancient name of the Canongate was Herhergare^ probably 
from the Saxon herberg^ an inn or hostelrie. In 1 177 a national 
Council was held in this abbey, on the arrival of a legate to take 
cognizance of a dispute between the English and Scotch clergy 
regarding the submission of the latter to the Church of England. 

In 1332, it was completely plundered by the army of Edward 
III., and in 1335 burnt by that of Richard IL But the greatest 
destruction took place in 1544, during the naval irruption of the 
Earl of Hertford, when the choir and transept of the church were 
entirely demolished, and nothing was left standing but the nave, 
the portion which now exists as a ruin. 

At the reformation, the^church was stripped of its ornaments, and 
converted into the parish church of the Canongate. On the resto- 
ration, however, it underwent a thorough repair, and was set apart 
as a chapel royal. A throne was erected for the sovereign, and 
twelve stalls for the knights of the order of the thistle ; the floor 
was paved with marble, and an organ put up. In the brief reign 
of James VIL mass was celebrated in it, to the no small indig- 
nation of the people ; and immediately on the abdication of that 
monarch, the populace again demolished this remnant of the hated 
religion by reducing the chapel to ruins. 

It remained in a neglected state till 1758, when the attention 
of the barons of exchequer was directed to it by the Duke of 
Hamilton, the hereditary keeper of the palace. A sum was 
granted to renew the roof, and otherwise repair the chapel; 
but from an error of judgment of the architect, large heavy flag- 
stones were put upon the roof, — the consequence of which was 
that, in ten years afterwards, the roof fell in, and brought down 
large portions of the walls and pillars. The rubbish, contain- 
ing much of the ornamental work, was afterwards cleared away ; 



662 EDINBUaGHSHTRB. 

but the chapel has been allowed to remain in a ruinoua state till 
the present time. 

The ruin, as already stated, formed the nave of the original 
churchy and is 148 feet in length by 66 feet in breadth. The 
style is of the middle period of Gothic architecture; and this 
remaining portion affords sufficient proof that, when entire, the 
church must have been a magnificent structure. In the south- 
east corner of the nave is the royal vault, where were buried 
David IL, James IL, James V., and Henry Lord Darnley. 

On the demolition of the monasteries at the reformation, the 
superiority of the Canongate, North Leith, part of the Pleasance, 
and barony of Broughton, was vested in the Earl of Roxburgh. 
In 1636, the town-council of Edinburgh purchased these superi* 
orities from the Earl, and obtained a charter of confirmation of 
the same from Charles I. 

The precincts of this abbey and the King's Park, first inclosed 
by James V., still retain the ancient privilege of being a sanctuary 
for insolvent debtors. The batlie of Holy rood is appointed by 
commission from the Duke of Hamilton, and the protection of the 
sanctuary is obtained by petition to this functionary, and the pay« 
ment of L.2, 2s* in name of fees. The average annual number 
who availed themselves of this privilege for the ten years previous 
to 1834, was 55. The boundaries comprise the King's Park, 
Salisbury Crags, and the greater part of Arthur Seat 

Trirdty College Church. — This church was founded by Mary 
of Gueldres, Queen of James II., in the year 146*2, at the same 
time that Trinity Hospital was endowed. The original plan was 
never completed, only the choir, central tower, and cross having 
been erected. It was a collegiate church, and its charter of foun- 
dation provided for a provost, eight prebendaries, two choristers, 
and a sacristan. The church is situated in the low ground a little 
to the east of the North Bridge. The style is Gothic, with large 
handsome windows on the north and south ends. These were 
opened up and the church completely repaired in 1815. The 
foundress lies buried in the north aisle of the church. This an- 
cient edifice being nearly in the line of the North British railway, 
it is doubtful whether it may not be necessary to pull it down. 

Old and New Greyfriars. — These churches and the surround- 
ing cemetery occupy ground which belonged to the Grey Friars. 
The Old Greyfriars was founded in 1612, and was at that time 
completely without the city. In 1718^ the spire, which strangely 



EDINBURGH. 668 

> • 

enough had been converted into a powder magazine, exploded, 
and destroyed a considerable part of the building. A second 
church was now annexed during the repairs of the old one, and a 
spire was dispensed with. The expense amounted to L.8045 
sterling. The churchyard contains the remains of many cele- 
brated men, — among whom are Buchanan, Dr Pitcairn, Allan 
Ramsay, Dr Black, and Principal Robertson. In 1845 both these 
churches were destroyed by a fire which took place from an over- 
heated flue. 

Tron Church.-^Th\% was formerly called Christ's Church, but 
from its vicinity to the public weighing beam or tron, which once 
stood in this part of the High Street, it obtained its present name. 
This church forms one side of Hunter's Square, and stands at 
the angle where South Bridge Street intersects the High Street. 
It was founded in t1ie year 1637, and opened for public worship 
in 1647. Want of funds caused this long delay, and it was at 
last finished partly at the expense of the town- council and partly 
by public subscription, at an expense of L.6000 sterling. 

In 1639, David Mackall, a citizen of Edinburgh, bequeathed 
about L.194 Sterling to be laid out in the purchase of land, the 
annual proceeds of which were to be applied to the support of a 
clergyman of the Established Church, who should be appointed 
to preach every Sunday morning at six o'clock, or other hour 
which the magistrates might deem expedient. No appointment 
took place, however, till 1703, when two clergymen were appointed, 
with a salary of L.40 a- year each. 

At the period when South Bridge Street was opened up, this 
church was almost rebuilt, and much reduced in size. At the great 
fi.re in 1824 the spire was entirely consumed, and the present one 
was erected in 1828. 

Lady Yesier*8 Church. — This church was founded in 1647 by 
the private munificence of Dame Margaret Ker, Lady Yester, 
and was bui)t on purpose to supply the deficiency of church ac- 
commodation then felt in the city. The original building was 
taken down in 1803, and a plain Gothic structure erected in the 
same place, opposite the Royal Infirmary. 

Canonffate Church. — The abbey church of Holyroodhouse was 
entirely the parish church of the Canongate. But James II. of 
England, during his stay in Edinburgh, having appropriated the 
royal chapel to the celebration of the Catholic worship, the inha* 
bitants of the Canongate were obliged to find other accommoda- 



M4 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

lion. Recollecting that a ekizen of Edioburgh, Thomas Moodie^ 
had many years before left a sum of money> now accumulated, ia 
the hands of the town-eouneit, for building a churchy the infiabi* 
tants now applied to King James, begging that he would interpose 
his authority for the fulBlment of the pious citiaen's bequest. A 
royal mandate was in eonsequenoe issued, and a piece of ground 
purchased for the church and burying*place, and the building 
was/b^un in 168& The church is in the form of a cross, with 
a handsome front, and cost about L.2400 Sterling. In the burial- 
ground lie the remains of Dr Adam Smith, Professor Dugald 
Stewart, and Ferguson the poet 

Leith Wyud and New Street churches are within this parish* 
The parish of Canongate is a collegiate charge. The first mi* 
uister has a stipend of Li.240 and a manse. The second has 
about the same stipend, and is allowed LhSO in lieu of manse. 
The stipends are partly paid from the Exchequer, &c. and the 
remainder is made up from the annuity taiu 

St Cuthber^s or We9t CfturcA.-— There was a church in the 
present situation of the West Church as early as the time of Mac- 
beth. In the charter of foundation of the monastery of Holyrood- 
house, there is mention of donations made to the church of Si 
Cuthbert by that monarch, who usurped the throne in the year 
1052. The present building was erected in 1776. It is a phuo 
square church, with a handsome spire, which was afterwards add- 
ed ; and being seated with double galleries, it will contain 2400 
persons. It was built at an expense of L«42dl Sterling. The 
parish of St Cuthbert's ori^nally included the suburbs to the 
west and north of the ancient royalty, and formed a large and 
populous parish. After the great increase of the new town, how- 
ever, the increase of population in this direction rendered it neces- 
sary to subdivide the parish into several new ones. This is a 
collegiate church. The stipend of each of the ministers is— 20 
bolls of wheat, 10 oats, 189 barley, 189 oatmeal ; Li.15 are allowed 
for communion elements. There is one manse belonging to the 
oldest minister by ordioatioQ ; and there is an annual allowance of 
L.60 to the other minister, the consequence of a gift, in former 
tiroes, of an house and piece of ground now converted into bury- 
ing ground, and made a part of the St Cuthbert's ohurch-yard. 
There is also a mutual glebe, which is now feued, and yields to 
each minister upwards of L.200 a year. 



EDINBURGH. 665 

• 

St Andrew*8 Church. — This church was erected in 1785, on 
the north-east side of Gteorge Street, The body of the cbmrch 
is of a circular form, and is surmounted by an elegant spire, 16H 
feet in height A portico, supported by four Grecian pilburs, 
forms the entrance. The steeple is furnished with a chime of 
eight bells. It is a double charge. The original bounds of this 
parish are now subdivided into St Stephen'^s and St Mary's. 
The church is seated for 979. 

Si Gearff€*s Church. — This church was founded in 1611, on 
the west side of Charlotte Square, and directly in a line with the 
termination of George Street It is an oblong building, with a 
handsome portico, and is surmounted by a dome 150 feet high. 
It was built at an expense of L^dd^OOO, and was opened for public 
worship in 1814. It is capable of containing a large congregation, 
ahd has always been a single charge. 

St Marys. — This church was erected in 1824, in Belief ue 
Crescent It has a handsome portico in front, supported by Co* 
rinthian pillars, and is ornamented with a spire. The church is of 
ample dimensions, and is a single chai^ge. 

jS'^ Stephen^s.'^ThiB church was erected in 1826-7, and opened 
for publie worship in 1828. The body of the church is of an oc^ 
tagonal form, and is surmounted by a square tower I6ft feet in 
height The architecture of this church is after an Italian model. 
It was built at an expense of L.21,000 Sterling, and is seated for 
1600 persons. It is a single charge. 

St Bernard^ Stockbridge. — This church was built in 1823. It 
is a plain but handsome building, surmounted by a low spire, and 
seated for 1360 persons. It is also a single charge. 

Hope Park Church. — This church was erected in 1829, on the 
west side of Clerk Street It has a Grecian portico in front, and 
a spire 110 feet high. It can accommodate 1800 persons, and is 
a single charge. 

St JohfCs, — This church was erected in 1838^ for the accom* 
modation of the population of the Cowgate and adjacent localities. 
It is a handsome building) capable of containing about 1200 persons. 

Oreenside Church was built in 183& It is situated in the line 
of the Royal Terrace, Calton Hill, and is a handsome ediOce. 

Dean Church. — This church was erected and opened for public 
worship in 1836. It iff intended chiefly for the population of the 
village of Water of Leitb, and the surrounding population. 

The stipends of the eighteen city clergy are L.560 each| raised 



066 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

by an assessment on the rental of the houses, and an annual 
venue secured on the Leith docks, in lieu of the merkper tan, 
which has been abolished. The seat rents are levied by the towD« 
council, and are appropriated to the building and support of the 
churches. 

Free Church. — The number of congregations belonging to the 
Free Church is twenty-three. 



Buccleuch. 


High Charch. 


St AndrewV 


Sc I.uke'a. 


Caooogate. 


Lady Glenorcby's. 


Sc Bernard's. 


St Mary's. 


Dean. 


Newjngton. 


St Cuthbert's. 


St Paul's. 


Gaelic. 


New North. 


8t David's. 


St Stephen'li 


Greyfriars. 


Pilrig. 


St Geoige*e. 


Tolbooth. 


HeodejnoD Church. 


Roxburgh. 


St John's. 





Episcopal Churches. — After the abolition of prelacy in Scotland 
in 1689, a few congregations of Episcopalians were tacitly tolera* 
ted, although after the rebellion of 1745 an act was passed against 
the nonjuring clergy of this denomination. In 1722 an Episcopal 
chapel was founded by Lord Chief Baron Smith, with an endow- 
ment of L.40 Sterling a-year to the clergyman. In 1746 two 
additional chapels were built, one in Skinner's, the other in Oar- 
rubber's, Close. As these houses were very small and incapable 
of accommodating the congregations, a larger church was built 
in the Cowgate by subscription, in the year 1771, for the purpose 
of accommodating all the Episcopalians then in Edinburgh, and the 
congregation, according to Arnot, amounted to 1000. In 1816 
the number of Episcopalians had so increased, and the wealth 
and respectability of the members were so considerable, as to 
demand still further church accommodation. Accordingly in that 
year two large chapels were founded, and completed in 1818. 
Both are Gothic structures ; and the funds for their erection were 
procured by subscription among the members of their congrega- 
tions. A fund for the support of the clergy was also raised in the 
same manner, which is invested, under the management of trustees, 
in government securities. 

St PauTs Chapel is situated in York Place. The building 
consists of a nave with four octagon towers, two at each end. 
Two aisles run on each side of the nave, supported by light 
buttresses, and there is an elegant window in the eastern end. 
The building cost L. 12,000. It accommodates a congregation 
of 1000. 

St JohrCs ChapeL — This elegant Gothic structure is situated at 
the west end of Princes Street, adjoining to the West Church. 



EDINBURGH. ^^7 

It is of an oblong form, with a square lower on the west end, 
where is the principal entrance, and a spacious window on the east 
with stained glass. Attached to the east end are a series of vaults 
for sepulture. The interior of the chapel is seated for 900 per- 
sons, and there- are no galleries. It was built at an expense of 
L. 15,000. 

St George's Chapel — This small chapel was built in 1794, on 
the south-west side of York Place. The congregation numbers 
about 150. 

St James' OiapeL — This chapel was built and endowed by the 
late Colonel Scott, Mount Lodge, Portobello. Attached to the 
church is a public day school for the general education of children. 
The average congregation is 600. 

Trinity Chapel^ Dean. — This chapel was erected in the year 
1831*. 

Besides these, congregations of the Episcopal persuasion meet 
rn St Peter's Chapel, Roxburgh Place, in the small chapel St 
Paul's, Carrubber's Close, and St Thomas' Chapel, Rutland 
Street. 

Secession Churches, — There are nine churches connected with the 
United Associate Synod: — Nicolson Street Chapel; Broughton 
Place Chapel ; Cowgate Chapel, (formerly Episcopal) ; Bristo 
Street Chapel; Lothian Road Chapel; Portsburgh Chapel; 
Potterrow Chapel ; Rose Street Chapel ; Stockbridge Chapel. 

Belief. — This denomination has Gve places of worship situated 
in Arthur Street, Bread Street, College Street, St James' Place, 
Roxburgh Terrace. 

Associate Synod of Original Seceders have two churches, one in 
Davie Street, the other in Infirmary Street. 

Methodist Chapel. — This is a large chapel in the corner of 
Nicolson Square, with minister's house and school-room attached. 
It was built in 1814. There is also a Wesleyan Methodist chapel 
in Richmond Street, and a chapel in James' Court. 

Independents.— There are three places of worship belonging to 
these, situated in Albany Street, North College Street, and Rox- 
burgh Place. 

Baptists. — There are six places of worship belonging to this 
denomination. 

Society of Friends. — The meeting house is in the Pleasance. 
There are 80 members, and from 20 to 30 who are not joined to 
the society. 



666 EDINBUROH8HIUB. 

Roman CatltoUc ChapeL — This chapel was erected ia ld13» in 
Broughton Street^ corner of York Place. It is of Gothic desi^y 
and cost L.8000. In it there are S9d let sittings, but the 6rst 
morning ahd the evening services are open to all. The number 
of Catholics increasing considerably since this cbapel was built, 
principally from an influx of Irish families into Edinburgh, an- 
other place of worship has been built in Lothian Street, called 
St Patrick's. The average of attendance here is 450. There is also 
a Catholic Nunnery at St Margaret's, with a private chapel. 
This nunnery was established for the education of young ladies 
of the Roman Catholic religion. According to the report of the 
Bishop to the Church Commission in ISSS, the number of *< Ca- 
tholics" in and about Edinburgh is computed at 12,000 to 14,000. 

Unitarian ChapeL — This chapel is situated in Castle Terrace. 
The regular hearers are from 100 to 150. 

The Jews* S^^noffoffue is situated in Richmond Street 

In 1886-86 the Parliamentary Church Commission published 
a report of the church accommodation in Edinburgh, and returns 
of the average number attending the respective places of worship. 
The returns are confessedly imperfect, but we subjoin the amount, 
in order to exhibit, as nearly as may be, the relative church attend- 
ing members of the various denominations. 

Afemgt number Attanding the BsCabliihed Churehei, 20,419 

Episcopal Church, . . dS27 

United Secession, Relief, Burghers, &c. 15,793 
Baptists, Independents, &a S^SO 

Methodists. . U70 

Catholics, .... 2750 

Unitarians, IdO 

Society of Friends, . 100 

Jews, 20 ftroiltes. 

In 1845 the total number of sitters in the twenty-three Free churches is said to 

amount to 10,069. 

Minister^ Widows* Fund. — The originator of this most useful 
plan for affording annuities to the widows of Scottish clergymen 
and professors of the universities was the Rev. Dr Alexander 
Webster, one of the ministers of Edinburgh, who was assisted in 
his calculations by Dr Wallace, author of the £ssay on the Num- 
bers of Mankind. The scheme was laid before the General As- 
sembly in 1742, and being approved of, received the sanction of 
Parliament in 1744, and afterwards its extension and improvement 
were ratified by subsequent acts. By this scheme every minister 
possessed of a living in the Church of Scotland, and every person 
appointed professor in any of its universities, was subjected to the 
payment ofone of four rates; the lowest of which was L.2, 12s. 6d. 



EDINBURGH. 669 

per annum, and the highest L.6, lis. 3d. The widow, on the 
death of the party, was entitled to an annuity corresponding 
to the rate which he had chosen, and his children, if he left 
no widow, were entitled to ten years of the annuity which would 
have been payable to the wj^ow. On every vacancy of a charge 
there was also a tax of L.3 out of the half-year's stipend, and 
every clergyman on his marriage paid in a sum equal to one year's 
rate. For the purpose of paying the widows' annuities and the 
expenses of collection, a capital of L.80,000 was in this way to be 
accumulated. After a trial of 33 years, the scheme was found to 
work exceedingly close to the original data on which it was found- 
ed ; and the surplus capital had accumulated beyond the speciBed 
sum. But in process of time, from the change of living and the do* 
crease of the value of money, the small annuities granted to 
widows, the medium being only L. 20, became wholly inadequate 
to their support, application was again made to Parliament in 
1814 ; and several improvements on the scheme received the sanc- 
tion of the Legislature. A voluntary subscription amongst the 
members of the fund was also adopted. The annual rates were 
raised 20 per cent. ; every new entering member was in future to 
pay L. 10. A grant was made to the fund from the bishops' rent 
in Scotland, and a grant of the stipends of vacant churches ; while 
the accumulated balance on the original fund was added to the 
capital, and this was to.be done from time to time, in order that 
the widows might have the benefit of an increasing annuity. 
The annual rates now payable are L.8, 3s., L. 4, 14s. 6d., L. 6, 
6s., and L. 7, 17s. 6d. 

In the year 1844, in consequence of the secession of the Free 
Church ministers from their charges in the previous year, the 
number of policies opened was 597, assuring a sum of L. 481,134. 

The aocumulated fund or capital ainounts to L. 1^597,590. 
The annua] revenue to 228^482. 

The trustees of this fund are the Presbytery of Edinburgh and 
professors of the University, who with a collector and secretary 
conduct its affairs. 

Society for the Sons of the Ciergy^ — This society was instituted 
in the year 1700, by a few lay sons of clergymen, for the benefit 
of the children of the ministers of the Church of Scotland. In 
1792 it was incorporated by royal charter. Its affairs are con* 
ducted by a president and committee of management, which hold 
their meetings in Edinburgh. 

EDINBURGH. U U 



670 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

V. — Educational and Literary Institutions. 

The University, — Edinburgh possessed no university prior to 
the Reformation. The convent of Grey Friars was endowed by 
James L, and several learned men were brought from the conti- 
nent with the view of establishing aa educational seminary in the 
city ; but although divinity and philosophy were taught here, the 
school never acquired any celebrity. Soon after the Reformation, 
the magistrates of the city and the Protestant clergy formed the 
design of a college for the education of youth ; but it was not till 
several years. after, that they were enabled to carry their design 
into execution. Having obtained by purchase some church lands 
called the. Kirk of Field, and Robert Reid, Bishop of Orkney, 
having left 8000 merks to found a college, the buildings were 
commenced in the year 1580. A charter was also obtained from 
James VL, which was followed by two others, and afterwards ra- 
tified bv Parliament Thesecharters bestowed on the town- 
council the power of erecting the necessary buildings, and of es- 
tablishing, with the advice of the ministers, professors in the 
different branches of science, (humanity, philosophy, divinity, me- 
dicine, law, and any other liberal sciences,) with power to place 
and remove them as they should judge expedient. They also con- 
firmed the grants of property made by Queen Mary, and em- 
powered all other persons to give in mortmain lands or sums of 
money towards the endowment of the seminary, bestowing also 
all immunities and privileges which are enjoyed by the other 
universities in Scotland. 

Robert Rollock, one of the regents at St Andrews, and a man of 
eminent learning, was appointed the first and only professor or re- 
gent He accordingly opened the college in October 1583 with a 
class of eighty-four students. Rollock was at first engaged only 
for a year, with a salary of L.ld, 6s. 8d. Sterling in addition to 
the fees of the students, which amounted to L.2 Scots yearly for 
the sons of burgesses, and L.3 Scots to others, or Ss. 4d. and 5s. Ster- 
ling money. As it was found that the studeijts were very ignorant of 
the Latin language, a second regent was soon afterwards appointed 
to teach this language. In 1586 a third regent was nominated, and 
Mr Rollock was by the town-council appointed Principal, and in* 
vested with the same authority as that possessed by the principal 
of any of the other colleges in the universities of Scotland. He 
was required to attend to the doctrine and conversation of the re- 
gents then appointed or to be appointed, and to preserve disci* 

3 



EDINBURGH. 671 

pline and to punish delinquencies among the students, but the 
council reserved to themselves the right of deposition and of en- 
acting statutes for the regulation of the seminary. 

According to the custom of the times, each regent continued to 
carry on, through the mathematics and philosophy in successive 
years, the class which had commenced with the languages. The 
principal devoted his prelections solely to divinity till the year 
1620, when a second divinity professor was appointed. Yet sub- 
sequent to this, several of the principals still continued to deliver 
theological lectures. The course of study continued for four 
years. During the first year, about six months were spent chief- 
ly in the study of the Greek and Roipan classics, accompanied 
by frequent exercises in translation and original composition ; the 
remainder of the session was occupied in the study of the dialec- 
tics of Ramus, and in committing to memory and reciting large 
portions of the ancient poets and orators. In the second year, 
besides being exercised in Greek themes and versions the students 
proceeded in the study of logic, rhetoric, and some parts of ma- 
thematics, and in the latter months the practice of oratory was 
encouraged by public declamations. The third session, carrying 
forward the public studies and classical learning, introduced the 
youth to the knowledge of some branches of natural history and 
philosophy, as also the cultivation of the Hebrew language. In 
the fourth session, ethics, physics, and metaphysics fonned the 
principal objects of study; iHit the greater part of the time was 
occupied in the practice of disputation. The regent prescribed 
the subject, and every candidate was matched with an antagonist 
The regents were required to exercise a habitual inspection of 
their charge both in the public class and in the hours of recreation 
in the fields, while the principal maintained a daily superinten- 
dence and presided at the public devotions. The practice of each 
regent teaching the same class during the whole period of the 
course was discontinued in 1708, and since that time every pro- 
fessor is limited to his own particular department. 

It was the original intention that all the students should lodge 
within the walls of the seminary and wear an academical dress. 
For some time chambers were furnished within the college, each 
student paying L.4 Scots, but the increasing numbers of students 
rendered this plan at last impracticable. 

In 1710 the English Dissenters offered' to contribute L.1000 
a year (or the support of a batpitiianf on condition that their stu* 



672 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

dents might participate in the accommodation, but the plan was 
never put in practice. 

Meanwhile the seminary continued to increase in reputation 
and in the number of students, while the liberality of the Govern- 
ment and the contributions and donations of individuals added 
considerably to its funds. Additional professors were gradually 
appointed. In 16*20 there were seven including the principal ; in 
1708 these were increased to fifteen ; and from that period to the 
present, the number has been increased to thirty*two. 

In 1685, Sir Robert Sibbald was appointed professor of medi- 
cine in the university. But it was not till some years afterwards 
that the fame of this sen^inary as a medical school was establish* 
ed by the energies of the Monros, and supported and increased 
by the eminent talents of Cullen, Black, Gregory, and others. 

In 1721, Dr Alexander Monro, Primus^ while yet a very young 
man, was. appointed professor of anatomy, and, other four professors 
being appointed to the several departments of the healing art, a 
regular course of medical education was begun ; which in a short 
time became celebrated throughout Europe. The institution of 
the Royal Infirmary about this time also added to the utility of the 
medical school. 

Nor were the chairs of the physical sciences, at this period, less 
ably filled. James Gregory, the inventor of the reflecting tele- 
scope, was professor of mathematics ; and he was succeeded by his 
two nephews of the same name, who first taught the Newtonian 
philosophy in Scotland. The celebrated Maclaurin was also one 
of the professors, and he was succeeded by Playfair and Leslie. 
Natural history first began to be taught by Drs Ramsay and 
Walker; and a professorship of agriculture was added at a later 
period. 

The professorship of public law was first instituted in 1707: 
soon afterwards followed professorships of Civil and Scotch law ; 
and a class of Conveyancing was established in 1825. 

With the extension of professorships and the rapid increase in 
the number of students, the old College buildings were found to 
be too small for the required accommodation. Many of the class- 
rooms were enlarged several times ; but the still increasing influx 
of students rendered new buildings indispensable. 

In 1763, the idea of a new building for the university was agi- 
tated, and public subscriptions we're commenced for this purpose ; 
but nothing was accomplished till 1789, when a considerable sum 



EDINBURGH. 673 

Was collected, the foundation of the new building was laid, and 
the work commenced immediately, after a plan furnished by Ro- 
bert Adam, architect. The design, however, was soon found to 
be far too extensive for the limited funds ; and scarcely was a 
fourth part of the building erected, when the work was abandoned 
for want of money to carry it on. In this unfinished condition it 
remained for twenty-five years; till, in 1815, by the exertions of 
Sir J. Marjoribanks, then provost of the city, aided by the mem- 
ber of Parliament for the borough, a Parliament grant of 
L. 10,000 a*year was obtained to complete the building. A new 
plan was furnished by Mr Playfair, architect, which was deemed 
expedient, as heavy alterations were found necessary, chiefly in 
the interidr departments of the building. In a few years, the whole 
was finished, with the exception of a dome above the front entrance, 
which was included in the original plan. The structure forms a 
magnificent quadrangle, with an open space in the centre. The 
length of this quadrangle is 358 feet by 255. The entrance is 
ornamented by a portico, supported by four Doric columns, 26 
feet in height, each formed of a single piece of sandstone. 

The constitution and government of this university differs from that 
of all the others in Scotland which were established under the Pa- 
pal power. No power is conferred upon it by the charter as an in- 
dependent corporation ; everything is left to the town-council as 
patpons. There is no mention made of a chancellor, although in 
early times the name was occasionally assumed by the Lord Pro- 
vost. The case with regard to the oifices of Rector and Dean of 
Faculty is nearly the same. The office of Rector was held by se- 
veral persons, though with frequent intervals till 1640, when the 
council resolved to elect a rector annually with six assessors, — two 
members of council, two ministers, and two professors* But, in 
the beginning of last century, the office of rector was permanent- 
ly annexed to that of Lord Provost, who, as head of the council, 
already posseised all the authority which could be deputed to the 
rector. Accordingly no chancellor or vice-chancellor, rector, or 
dean of faculty exercises any authority or jurisdiction over the 
principal, professors, or students in the university. The business, 
is managed by the town-council, who take charge of the revenue,, 
communicate with the senatus, and exercise a general superin- 
tendence over the seminary. Eleven professorships have, at dif- 
ferent times, been founded by the Crown ; of eight of which it 
has retained the patronage ; but the exercise of this power has 



674 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

always been protested against by the council as an infringeuieni 
of their rights. The Senatus Academicus also attempted to dispute 
the right of the patrons to regulate the course of study ; but the 
Court of Session, on the case being brought before it, decided in 
favour of the right of the patrons to regulate all matters whatever 
connected with the university. The Council, however, leaves mat- 
ters of discipline and ordinary detail to the principal and profes* 
sors ; and the regulations which are from time to time made by 
them are considered valid, unless they are disallowed by the pa- 
trons. 

The present principal has resumed the divinity class, and has 
revived the ancieut practice of delivering an annual address to the 
students. 

The senatus is composed of the principal and professors, who 
in right of their appointment become constituent members. Th0 
principal presides, and has both a deliberative and a casting vote. 
The senatus claims the right of instituting new faculties, and of 
fixing the privileges and immunities belonging to them. There 
are four faculties, — divinity, law, medicine, and the arts, — each 
of which has a dean, chosen by the faculty. At an early pe- 
riod, the faculty of divinity was separated from that of the arts ; 
but the precise time at which the others were constituted is not 
known. The decisions and regulations of these faculties are all 
subject to the approval of the senatus. 

The winter session commences on the first Tuesday of Novem^' 
ber, and terminates in the end of April. The summer session, 
in which only a few of the medical classes are taught, begins oi> 
the first Monday of May, and terminates at the end of July. No 
regular order of study is enjoined by the umversity, — so that any 
one or more of the classes may be attended at the option of the stu- 
dent; only certain regulations are prescribed by the different facul- 
ties, and a certain uumber of classes is required to be attended 
during a stated period of years by those who are candidates for de- 
grees in the several professions. 

There may be said to be no general discipline exercised 
over the students, farther than that personal authority which each 
professor maintains over his own class as regards propriety of con- 
duct while there, and regular attendance to the duties prescribed.. 
There are no general meetings of the students as a body. Any 
great delinquencies are of very rare occurrence ; but if they should 
happen, the parties may be iMrought before the senatus or before 



EDINBURGH. 675 

the principal) and admonished or expelled. No academical dress 
is worn ; no preliminary tests or examinations of proficiency are 
required on first entering the classes; and every student is at 
lifaferty to attend whatever church he is a member of, — about 200 
seats being provided in one of the city churches for those stu- 
dents who wish to attend. 

In all the classes (with the exception of those for languages), 
oral lectures and demonstrations are the means of instruction em- 
ployed. In a considerable proportion of these, examinations of 
the class once or twice a-week on the subjects of the lectures are 
also adopted by the professors. 

Candidates for the degree of master of arts must be in the 
fourth year of their academical studies, and must have attended 
the classes of humanity, Greek, mathematics, logic, rhetoric, 
moral and natural philosophy. The regulations for medical de- 
grees are as follow:— No student can be admitted to the exami- 
nations for the degree of M. D. who has not been engaged in 
medical study for four years, during at least six months in each, 
either in the university of Edinburgh, or in some other univer- 
sity where the degree of M. D. is given, unless in addition to 
three anni medici in a university he has attended during at least 
six winter months the medical or surgical practice of a general 
hospital, which accommodates at least eighty patients, and during 
the same period a course of practical anatomy,— in which case 
three years of university study are admitted. Candidates must 
give sufficient evidence that they have studied once at least 
each of the following departments of medical science under pro- 
fessors of medicine: — anatomy, - chemistry, materia medica, in- 
stitutes of medicine, practice of medicine, surgery, midwifery, 
pathology, and practical anatomy, during a course of six 
months; clinical medicine, six months, or two courses of three 
months ; and clinical surgery, medical jurisprudence, botany, na- 
tural history, during a course of at least three months. One year 
of the three must be spent at the university of Edinburgh. A 
thesis written by them must be given in previous to examination, 
and a declaration that they are twenty-one years of age. At the 
conclusion of the third year of study, the candidate may submit 
himself to a first examination on his knowledge of the Latin lan- 
guage, and on anatomy, physiology, chemistry, and botany. At 
the end of the fourth session a second examination takes place 



676: EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

OD the remaining subjects of study; and if found competent, be 
is presented with a diploma on the first day of August. 

The fee for graduation in arts is L.d, 3s. ; in medicinCi L.25, 
including L.10 for stamp. The degrees in law and divinity being 
honorary, are generally given without the payment of any fee. 

The annual revenue of the university, derived from original pro« 
perty, from parliamentary enactments, from royal grants, and from 
the benefactions of individuals, amounted in 1825 to about L.3770. 
In this sum was included the income of the bursars, amounting to 
L.420. Of the remainder, the principal part was made up of the 
royal grants, which then amounted to L.]4d5, and were given as 
salaries to certain professors. 

A large portion of the college funds, amounting to L. 13, 11 9, 
having been under the management of the town-council, and being 
involved in the embarrassment of the city's affairs, the act of settle^ 
ment in 1838 provides an annual sum of L.2500 for the mainte- 
nance and support of the college and schools of the city, in full of 
all demands. 

The late General Reid bequeathed to the university the amount 
of his property, which, after deduction of legacies and expenses, 
is about Li.62,000. According to his directions a professorship of 
music has been instituted, and an annual concert is given in 
commemoration of his bequest The remainder of the funds is 
to be applied to making additions to the library, or otherwise in 
promoting the general interests and advantage of the university. 

From the year 1646 to 1703 several sums of money were mort* 
gaged with the town-council by various individuals, for the purpose 
of affording an annual sum to poor students attending the univer- 
sity. A list of these and other bursaries to the university is sub- 
joined. 



p- 



it 



EDINBURGH. ' 

(00(0(0 — aij;* — w«o 



US 



3 

I's 

ill 



yj 






j"2 

o > S.'S 



HI 



J t 









.urn 



Will 






1 






P3>CO<D(0 nOe^COOl ^i CDOC4^0dC4— 4-OCO V)o>nOO 



676 EDINBURGHSHIRE* 

11. — Bursaries in the presentation of the Principal and Professors, 

1. Macpherson*s. — The bursary of L.100 Sterling, being the 
interest of L.2500, 4 per cent. Carnatic stock, left by Sir John 
Macpherson in 1825. It is destined for the benefit of a student 
Yiho must be a native of the Highlands, and understand the Gae- 
lic language ; and must also be in the last session of his attendance 
on a regular course of languages and philosophy. The bursar en- 
joys the benefit only for one year. 

(2.) Stewarfs. — Three bursaries of L.10 each, being the inte- 
rest of L.1000, 3 per cent, consols, left in 1810 by the Rev. James 
Stewart. One bursar is appointed each year. It is required that 
he be in the second session of his course of languages and philo- 
sophy ; and the bursary is held for three successive years. 

(3. ) Blair* s. — One bursary of L. 1 2. Candidate to be in the first 
year of his academical course at the university of Edinburgh* 
Trustees, Principal, Professors of Humanity, Greek, Mathematics, 
Logic, and Moral Philosophy. It is adjudged by the trustees 
after comparative trial in Latin and the rudiments of Greek. 

III. — Heriofs Bursaries* — Ten of L.20 each, founded by 
George Heriot, and in the presentation of the Governors of Greorge 
Heriot's Hospital.* These are enjoyed by boys otherwise un- 
connected with the hospital. Ektch bursary is granted for one 
year only ; but when the bursar is deserving, it may be renewed 
annually, for a period not greater, in whole, than four years, dur- 
ing the regular progress of the bursar through the curriculum^ 
which qualifies for the degree of A. M. Candidates may apply 
at any period of their literary studies ; but the bursary will be 
granted only for the remainder of their literary curriculum, and 
terminates whenever an education strictly professional commences. 
Applications are directed to be made to the Treasurer of the Hos- 
pital before the first Monday of October. 

IV. — There are other bursaries under the management, and in 
the gift, of public bodies : among which may be noticed, Ckris' 
iie*tu — Mortified by Adam Christie in 1698^ and in the gift of the 
Faculty of Advocates. It is held for four years, and amounts to 
L.I8 per annum. 

V. — Bursaries in the presentation of private individuals : among 
these arcf — (1.) Grants. — Bursaries of L.100 each to each of two 
bursars,— from the rent of the lands of Ferneyside, in the parish of 
Libberton, purchased with the sum of L.599d, left in 1817 by Dr 
Donald Graut The patrons of these bursaries named in the deed 

* Thew are exclusive of the bunariee granted from the hiwpital funds to the pro- 
miaing boji who bad been educated in the hospital. 



EDINBURGH. 



679 



were Sr James Grant of Orant, Alexander A nstrutber, Esq., Advo- 
cate-General of Madras, Henry Mackenzie, Esq. Edinburgh, or 
their legal representatives ; whom failing, the Principal and Pro* 
fessors of the University of Edinburgh. Each bursary is held for 
four years ; and the bursars are each required by the patrons to 
attend three classes in the University of Edinburgh during each 
winter sessidn while they enjoy the bursary. 

(2.) Shorfs. — Bursary in the gift of the Earl of Morton, 
amounting to LJl, 8s., the proceeds of a sum of L.275, 3s. 4d., 
left in 1778 by Mr Thomas Short; and destined for three or four 
years to a student attending the mathematical classes. 

VL — Five bursaries of L.10 eaoh to students of Divinity, in the 
gift of the Commissioners of the Treasury. 

The following table exhibits a list of the professorships, with 
the dates of their foundation, &c« 



Professorshipfl. 


f'ounded. 


Salary. 


{"ec 


Patrons. ~ 


1. PriDcipaly 


1585 


L.151 


• ■ • 


Town- Council. 
( Lords of Sek, Town- 


2. Humanitj, 


1597 


67 


3 guinea 


l Coun., Fac. of Advo- 
( cates, and W. S. 


a Divinity, 


1620 


196 


2 


Town- Council. 


4. Hebrew, 


1642 


115 


2 


Do. 


5. Matbemaiics, 


1674 


148 


3 


Do. 


6. BoUny, 


1676 


127 


4 


Crown & Town-Council 


7. Theory of Physic, 


1685 


• • • 


4 


Town-CounciL 


8. Practice of Physic, 


1665 


• ■ ■ 


4 


Do. 


0. Church History, 


1695 


200 


2 


Crown. 


10. Anatomy and Physiology, 


1705 


50 


4 


Town*CounciL 


11. Greek, 


1708 


87 


3 


Do. 


12. Natural Philosophy, 


1708 


52 


3 


Do. 


IS. Moral Pbilo«>phy, 


1706 


102 


3 


Do. 


14. Logic and MeUphysics, 


1706 


52 


3 


Do. 


15. Civil Law, 


1710 


100 




1 Fac. of Advocates and 
J Town-Council. 
1 own- Council. 


16. Chemistry, 


1718 


■ w ■ 




17. Universal History, 


1719 


100 




( Fac. of Advocates and 
Town-Council 


la Scotch Law, 


1722 


100 




Da 


19. Midwifery, 


1726 


• •• 




Town-Council. 


90. Clinical Medicine, 


1741 


» ■ • 






21. lihetoric. 


1762 


100 




Crown. 


22. Natural HisUiry, 


1767 


100 




Do. 


2a Materia Medica, 


1766 


1 




Town-Council. 


24b Practical Astronomy, 


1786 


120 


■ ■ • 


Crown. 










( Lords of Sess. Town- 


25 Agriculture, 


1790 


50 




< Council, Senate of 
( University. 


26. Clinical Surgery, 


1808 


100 




Crown. 


27. Military Surgery, 

2a Medical Jurisprudence, 


1806 


100 




Do. 


1809 


100 




Do. 


29. Conveyancing, 


1825 


120 


« 


j Town-Coun., Deputy 
I Keeper, and W. S. 


90. Surgery, 


1831 

issr 


• • • 




Town- Council. 


3\. General Pathology, 


• • • 




Do. 


92. Music, 


1889 


900 


• •• 


Senate. 



680 EDINBUBGHSHIRt. 

University Library. — This library owed its commencement to a* 
donation of books made by Mr Clement Little, ad?ocate, to the 
town-council, for the benefit of the citizens, in 1580. When the 
college was founded, some years afterwards, the books were con- 
signed to this institution ; and thus became the nucleus of the 
present extensive collection. Until the new copyright act 
passed a few years since, this library, along with the other 
university libraries of Britain, received a copy of each book enter- 
ed at Stationers' Hall. This privilege is now, however, abolished, 
and the expenses of the library are supplied from a payment of 
L.575, made in lieu from the public funds, from part of the matri* 
culation and graduation funds, and from a fee of Ij.5 payable by 
each of the professors on his induction. The matriculation fee isL. 1 • 

The library apartments are in the south side of the qimdrangle. 
The great hall on the upper floor is 198 feet long by 50 feet 
wide, and forms a magnificent room, of chaste design and elegant 
proportions. The books are arranged in double cases, projecting 
from the sides of the room, but in such a form as not to impair 
the symmetry and beauty of the apartment. A collection of pic- 
tures and bronzes, the gift of Sir James Erskine of Torry, to the 
university was, till lately, also arranged here, but has now been 
transferred to the Royal Institution buildings on the Mound. 
Books are given out to all students who apply for them, on the 
production of their matriculation ticket, and the temporary depo- 
sit of L.1, for which a receipt is granted. The library contains 
about 100,000 volumes in theology, science, and general literature. 

The library contains some ancient historical documents, and a 
beautiful MS. in vellum of Fordoun's Scotichronicon. There is 
a separate theological library appropriated to the students of di- 
vinity, and supported by a matriculation fee of 10s. 

In consequence of an arrangement >yith the College of Sur* 
geons in 1764, that body joined their library to that of the uni- 
versity ; and on this account, and on the payment of L.5 per an- 
num, which is now increased to L.20, the members of the College 
of Surgeons claim free access to the library, and have the privilege 
of taking out books. 



BDINBUUGH. 



681 



Table showing the number of Matriculated Students in the dif- 
ferent Faculties, and of Graduations every fifth year from 1790 
to 1845. 



Sessions. 


Matric. 
Students 


Stud, of Litera- 
ture and Phil. 


Divinity. 


Law. 


Medi- 
cine. 


Graduates in 
Medicine. 


1790-1791 


1198 


426 


128 


129 


510 


22 


1795-1796 


1218 


427 


140 


148 


506 


81 


1800-1801 


1332 


447 


125 


116 


644 


86 


18a5-1806 


1570 


629 


125 


118 


708 


87 


1810-1811 


2091 


804 


160 


198 


984 


48 


1815-1816 


2097 


757 


178 


288 


929 


76 


1820-1821 


2056 


892 


254 


256 


754 


103 


1825-1826 


2013 


822 


228 


298 


891 


119 


18.30-1831 


1808 


676 


215 


292 


840 


120 


1895-1886 


1408 


510 


184 


218 


680 


128 


1840-1841 


1281 


480 


158 


137 


456 


103 


1844-1845 


1056 


482 


56 


148 


870 


79 



Previous to the year 1811 there is no general register of the 
students matriculated There are only the lists of the classes of 
the professors. 

The following table exhibits the different counties of Scotland, 
and the different countries from which the students of session 
1844-5 were registered as having come; — the attendance at 
the Divinity Hall and during the summer session not included. 

Med. Lit. Law. Tot. 





Med 


. Lit Law. 


Tot. 


Aberdeen, 


5 


5 


2 


12 


Argyll, 


8 


8 


1 


12 


Ayr, 


6 


17 


8 


26 


Banff, 


4 





3 


7 


Berwick, 


5 


10 


3 


18 


Bute, 








1 


1 


Caitfaneas. 





1 





1 


Clackmannan, 


2 


3 


2 


7 


Dumbarton, 


1 


,1 


2 


4 


Dumfries, 


9 


81 


4 


44 


Edinburgh, 


68 


164 


53 


285 


Elgin Sl Moray, 


5 


2 





7 


Fife, 


11 


20 


11 


42 


Forfar, 


8 


18 


15 


41 


Haddington, 


6 


5 


1 


12 


InverneaB, 


7 


18 


5 


25 


Kincardine, 


1 


1 


1 


3 


Kinro«s, 


2 


8 


I 


6 


Kirkcudbright, 


1 


4 





5 


Lanark, 


10 


18 


6 


34 



Linlithgow, 3 3 

Nairn, 

Orkney & ZeUand^ 6 4 

Peebles, . 6 

Perth, . 7 47 

Kenfrew, . 4 4 

Ro68 & Cromarty, 4 7 

Roxburgh, . 6 13 

Selkirk, . 2 

Stirling, . 3 7 

Sutherland, • 1 1 

Wigton, . 1 1 

England, . 97 26 

Ireland, 80 4 

Colonies and Fo- ) gg | - 
reign Countries, J • 

Uncertain, 2 3 



3 
3 
1 

11 
2 
2 
8 



4 
2 




1 



9 

3 
11 

6 
65 
10 
13 
22 

2 
10 

? 

6 

125 
34 

55 

6 



357 466 148 971 



Museum of Natural History. — The formation of a museum 
in the university was begun by Sir Andrew Balfour and Sir Ro- 
bert Sibbaldy to whose exertions about the same time the uui- 
Tersity owed the establishment also of a botanic garden. The col- 
lection of antiquities, fossils, medicinal simples, and other euriosi- 



6d2 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

lias, made by these zealous cultivators of natural science, was, ac- 
cording to Dr Walker, of considerable importance, and equal to 
any then existing in Europe; but for want of a succession of men 
of similar tastes, it gradually fell to decay, so that at the period 
of Dr Walker's appointment to the chair of natural history, only 
a remnant of the specimens, in very bad condition, remained. On 
the accession of .the present professor to the chair, he zealously 
set about the re-formation of a museum ; and was fortunately aid- 
ed soon afterwards by a muniBcent bequest of valuable minerals 
and fossils, by Dr Thomson of Naples, together with a sum of 
L.1500 towards the maintenance ol the museum. Still, how- 
ever, the circumscribed space in the old buildings prevented the 
extension of the museum ; and it was not till the spacious halls of 
the new building were completed, that the collection began to 
assume that importance which it now has acquired. About this 
time Dufresne's collection of birds was purchased in Paris for the 
museum ; as also some part of Bullock's coUectiou, in London ; 
the whole amounting to L.dOOO. This purchase was made by 
means of money advanced on the faith of General Reid's legacy 
falling to the university. In consequence of an application to 
Government, duplicates of specimens in natural history, procured 
in the different voyages of discovery, were also presented, free of 
expense, to the museum, and many contributions from abroad were 
sent by friends to the institution, and former pupils of the univer- 
sity. The collection of birds alone amounts to upwards of 3000 
specimens. And many specimens of insects and other articles are 
still in the repository of the museum unpacked, for want of addi- 
tional room. Amongst these is the celebrated Dr Hutton's col- 
lection of specimens of rocks, illustrative of his theory of the earth, 
presented by the Royal Society. 

The upper and principal room of the museum is a spacious 
apartment, lighted from the roof, with a gallery running along boUi 
sides, 90 feet in length. The lower room is 50 feet in length. 
Students attending the lectures on natural history have free admit- 
tance to the museum once a-week. The public are admitted on 
payment of Is., the proceeds of which admissions go towards 
maintaining the museum. The admirable arrangement of this 
great collection is the work of the present distinguished Professor 
of Natural History. 

The Anatomical Museum of the university was formed by Drs 
Mooro^ Primui and SecunduSf and has since been considerably in- 
creased. It forms an extensive collection for the use of students 



EDINBURGH. 



683 



of anatomy. Of the fee payable on graduation in medicine, L.U 
Is. is appropriated to the support of this museum. 

The AgHadtural Museum has been formed by the present dis- 
tinguished professor of agriculture, Mr Low, aided by a grant from 
Government ; and consists of models of implements of husban- 
dry, specimens of grain and grasses, and drawings of the most 
approved breeds of cattle and horses. 

Hiffh SchooL — So early as the year 1519 a grammar school, 
countenanced by the town-council, appears to have existed. In 
1578» the magistrates, having been frustrated in their attempts 
to establish a university, erected a high school on ground granted 
to them by Queen Mary, which had formerly belonged to the 
monastery of Black Friars. Two teachers were appointed to this 
school, but their salaries and fees were at first so small that they 
threatened to leave it, if these were not increased. Upon this 
remonstrance, the children of freemen of the city, who hitherto 
had been taught gratis, were ordered to pay as a quarterly fee, 
three shillings Scots (equal to Sd. Sterling) to the master, and 
two shillings to the usher. Subsequently, the teachers were in- 
creased to four, and the fees were considerably raised. In 1777 
the number of pupils had so much increased that a new building 
was found necessary. Accordingly a building was commenced 
immediately to the east of the old one, which building now forms 
the surgical hospital attached to the infirmary. In consequence 
of the extension of the town to the north, this situation was found 
to be inconvenient, and in 1825 the foundation of the present High 
'School was laid, on a spot of ground cleared out from the sloping 
st3e of th$ Calton Hill. This is an elegant Grecian building, of 
the Doric order, after the design of the temple of Theseus at 
Athens. It consists of a centre, two wings, and two lodges, ex- 
tending in front to the length of 400 feet. The entrance is by 
a raised portico supported by columns, and a corridor with columns 
on each side. There is a IsLVge hall, library, museum, and apart- 
ments for the different classes. The play-ground, which is railed 
in, includes a space of two acres. The expense was about 
L.30,000. The teachers are a rector and four classical masters, a 
teacher of French, one of arithmetic, one of mathematics, and 
a writing master and assistants. 

The junior class enters with one of the classical masters who 
carries it on for four years, where they are grounded in the ele- 
ments of Latin, Greek, and ancient and modern geography. In 
the fifth year the class is then handed over to the rector, when the 



664 EDINBUBGUSHIRR. 

same course of study is further extended for one or two years. In 
the intervals of the hours for classical instruction the other mas- 
ters are attended for writing, arithmeticy &c. The rector and 
four classical masters have a small annual salary from the town- 
council, amounting to about L.20 each. 
The fees are, 

per quarter. 



Rector^ class, including Greek, 


. L.1 6 





Four jaoior classes. 


1 





French, .... 


10 


6 




10 


6 


Arithmetic, .... 


. 7 


6 


Writing, .... 


7 


6 


Matriculation ticket paid annually, 


5 






Attendance on the last four branches is optional. The average 
number of pupils is 400. They generally enter at the age of 9 
'or 10. 

Edinburgh Academy. — This academy was established by a num* 
ber of subscribers in 1821. The building, which Is situated to 
the north of the new town, is simple but elegant, and cost about 
L.1 4,000. It contains a large public hall and library and class 
rooms, with ample inclosed play-ground. The management is 
vested in fifteen directors, chosen from the body of subscribers. 
The teachers are, a rector, four classical masters, and teach- 
ers of French, English, mathematics, arithmetic, and writing. 
The course of study extends to six or seven years. Each class is 
taught in the classical department by the same master for the 
first four years. In the fifth year the class comes under the 
tuition of the rector, assisted by the same master, and continues 
under the same for three years. In the intervening hours, English, 
writing, arithmetic, mathematics and French are successively at- 
tended, with ancient and modern history and geography. The 
fees amount on the average of seven years to 10 guineas, the ju- 
nior class paying L.7, and the senior L.1], Us. Pupils enter 
about the age of nine or ten, and are received at any period of the 
session. 

Scottish Naval and Military Academy. — This academy is for 
the purpose of a£fording education to pupils destined to serve in 
the army or navy, or East India Company's service. The sup* 
porters of the establishment consist of shareholders, donors, and 
annual contributors. Its affairs are conducted by a president and 
committee of management There is a military superintendent, 
with teachers for the various classes. The branches taught consist, 
in addition to the classics and other ordinary branches of a liberal 
education, of military and civil engineering, landscape^ and per- 



EDINBURGH. 685 

spective drawing, navigation, chemistry, natural philosophy, the 
modern languages. Eastern languages, military exercises, gym- 
nastics, practical mechanics, modelling, &c The fees vary from 
L.8^ ds. to L.1, Is. per quarter, each class. 

Other educational establishments. — Besides the above mav be 
mentioned the Circus Place School for elementary instruction, and 
the Hill Street Institution for instruction in classics, English, 
French, German, mathematics, arithmetic, writing, geography, 
drawing, engineering, &c. There are also two public semimiries 
in the Southern Districts, one for boys and the other for young 
ladies, where a complete general course of education is given; 
a private boarding and educational establishment at MerchistoH 
Cattle, numerously attended ; and a similar establishment at New« 
tngton House, besides numerous other private schools in the vari* 
ous parts of the town. 

Heriot Schools. — Some years ago, an act of Parliament was ob« 
tained, empowering the governors to dispose of the surplus revenue 
•of Heriot'^ Hospital, for the erection of day-schools in the most 
populous districts of the city, for the gratuitous education of poor 
children belonging to deceased burgesses, freemen, and other poor 
citizens of Edinburgh. Accordingly seven very commodious and 
handsome buildings have been erected in the following localities ; 
— Heriot Bridge, Old Assembly Close, Borthwick Close, Cow- 
gate Port, High School Yards. In Old Assembly Close and 
High School Yards two infant schools are also established. 
These are now attended by upwards of 2000 children ; and from 
the eflScient manner in which they are conducted, promise to be 
of the utmost benefit for the general diffusion of education among 
the lower orders. 

Schools for the education of the lower classes have been esta- 
blish%d in connection with the kirk- sessions of the different pa- 
rishes. Two schools founded by the late Dr Bell are also in 
full operation, one in Niddry Street, attended by 500 pupils — one 
in Greenside, attended by about the same number. 

The Edinburgh Education Society School, conducted on the 
Lancasterian system, has upwards of 600 pupils. 

Sunday Schools. — The first Society for the promotion of Sab- 
bath schools was formed in 1786; and the gratis Sabbath School 
Society in 1797. In 1812 the presbytery of Edinburgh instituted 
parochial Sabbath schools in every parish ; and these have since 
increased in number and efficiency. 

BDINBURGH. X Z 



^86 EDINBURGHSUIUE. 

Normal SchooL—' A Seminary for the instruction of young' men 
devoting themselves to the profession of teaching in the parochial 
and other schools, has lately been established on a great scale by 
the General Assembly's Education Committee. It occupies a 
large and commodious structure, which has lately been erected on 
the Castlehill, at an expense of upwards of L.8000, one-half of 
the amount being granted by the Education Committee of the 
Privy- Council, the other half raised by subscription. The Privy- 
Council Committee also grants L.500 per annum towards the sup- 
port of the Seminary, on condition of the Assembly Committee 
contributing an equal amount for the same purpose. Domestic 
accommodation is provided in this building for students. The 
seminary is conducted by a rector and two masters. 

School of ArUm — In 1821 the 6rst idea of a school for the in* 
struction of mechanics and tradesmen in the elements of scientific 
knowledge occurred to a few individuals in Edinburgh, and in the 
same year the School of Arts was established. It is supported by 
general subscriptions and donations, and by the fees of the pupils. 
Lectures are given in chemistry and the application of this science 
to the arts; in mechanical philosophy, mathematics, engineerings 
modelling, &c A library is connected with the institution, which 
is open to the members on paying a small yearly sum, which en-* 
titles the member also to attendance on the lectures. Certificates 
or diplomas are given to those students who have particularly 
distinguished themselves in the different classes, after undergoing 
a regular examination in the several courses l>f study. The num- 
ber of students attending all the classes during the session 1844- 
45 was 58a 

Royal College of Physicians, — This body was incorporated by a 
charter of Charles II. in 1681. By this charter the members 
have an exclusive privilege of practising medicine in Edinl^rgh ; 
and they are also enjoined to visit the apothecaries' shops and pre- 
vent the sale of insufficient and corrupted drugs. The college 
consists of a president and council, and resident and non-resident 
fellows. They have a hall and library, and hold occasional meet- 
ings. In 1843 the Physicians' Hall in George Street was pur- 
chased by the Commercial Bank ; and a new Physicians' Hall has 
been built in Queen Street. 

Royal College of Surgepns.'^hi 1505 the surgeons and barbers 
were formed into a corporation by the town-council of Edinburgh. 
The charter was afterwards ratified by James V.; and Queen 
Mary, in consideration of the great attendance of surgeons on their 



EDINBUttGH. 



687 



(wtienU) granted them aD exemption from serving on juries, and 
from ivatehinff and warding within the city. In ISd?, by an act 
of Parliament, the surgeons and apothecaries were, by their owd 
desire, united into one corporation ; and they now laid aside en- 
tirely their business of barbers. In 1778 they obtained a new 
charter, under the title of the Royal College of Surgeons. This 
charter includes a widows' scheme. E^ch member pays L. ^ 
yearly, and after four- payments, if he dies, his widow is entitled to* 
an annuity. If he dies a widower a certain sum is paid at once to 
his surviving children. 

The Hall, formerly occupied by the surgeons in Surgeons* 
Square, has now been converted into a fever hospital, and the 
meetings of the college are held in their hall, Nicolson Street* 
Here there is an excellent pathological museum, and a museum 
of anatomy and comparative anatomy, the latter bequeathed to the 
college by the late Qr Barclay. 

The College grants diplomas in surgery to students of four 
years'standing, who have gone through the regular prescribed course 
of study, and have undergone a strict examination on the various 
departments of the art. The order of the course of study is as 
follows : — First year, anatomy, chemistry, mechanical philosophy. 
Second year, anatomy, practical anatomy, physiology, surgery, 
materia medica. Third year, practice of physic, clinical surgery, 
practical chemistry, hospital. Fourth year, surgery or military 
surgery, midwifery, clinical medicine, hospital. Fellows of the 
College are licensed to teach any of the above branches. The 
class fees are generally L. 8, 3s» The fee for a diploma is L. 7, 5s. 

Boyal Society. — Previous to the establishment of the Royal So- 
ciety of Edinbui^gh in 1782, there had existed various associations 
of literary and scientific men, for the discussion and encourage* 
ment of various departments of knowledge. The first of these as- 
sociations was formed in 1718 by the masters of the High School, 
and the celebrated grammarian Thomas Ruddiman : to these were 
afterwards joined Lord Kames, the Rev. Mr Wishart, and Messrs 
Murray and Cochrane, advocates. The object of this society was 
the cultivation of Greek and Roman literature. The next was a 
medical association formed under the auspices of Dr Monro Pri" 
mttf, in 1781 ; which was afterwards extended to embrace other 
sciences, and called the Philosophical Society. Of this Society 
the celebrated mathematician Colin Maclaurin was a zealous pro- 
moter. In 1754, Allan Ramsay, the son of the poet, founded the 
Select Society, which rapidly rose to eminence, and included 



688 EDINBUKOHSHIRB. 

among its members Principal Robertson, Adam Smith, and David 
Hume. In 178:2, Principal Robertson proposed to the profes- 
sors of the university the union of these different Societies into 
one body, on a plan similar to that of the foreign academies, for 
the cultivation of every branch of science and literature. The 
plan was cordially approved ; and it was resolved to apply for 
a charter, and to solicit the Royal patronage. Accordingly, 
next year, a charter was procured ; and the Royal Society of 
Edinburgh was constituted. The Society has^ since that period, 
occasionally published their Transactions, containing many valuable 
papers on literary and scientific subjects, and they hold regular 
meetings every winter for the reading of papers and communica- 
tions. The Society occupies apartments in the Royal Institu- 
tion Building on the Mound. 

Astronomical Society. — In the year 1786, a plan was proposed 
for erecting an observatory on the Calton Hill ; and a small sum 
of money was raised for the purpose, chiefly through the exertions 
of Maclaurin, then professor in the university. Nothing, however, 
was done till the year 1776 ; when the present old building on.the 
Calton Hill was founded. The funds failing, the building was not 
finished until 1792, when it was completed, but in a style far in- 
ferior to the original design. For many years, it remained with- 
out any instruments, and consequently useless. 

In 1812, The late Professor Playfair published an eloquent ad* 
dress on the importance of an astronomical observatory for Edin* 
burgh ; and in that year the Astronomical Institution was formed. 
To this institution,— the funds for which were raised by a certain 
number of shares of twenty-five guineas each, — ^the magistrates 
made over the ground and building on the Calton Hill ; granting 
them a seal of cause and all the privileges of a corporation. 

In 1818^ the new Observatory was founded contiguous to the old 
building. It is an elegant Doric structure^ after the model of the 
Grecian temple of the winds. The building is a central cross of 
62 feet, with four projecting pediments supported by six columns, 
and fronting the four cardinal points .of the compass. In the cen- 
tre is a dome 13 feet in diameter, and in which is a solid cone or 
pillar 19 feet in height for the astronomical circle. On the east 
end stuids the transit^instrument and astronomical clock; and obl 
the west the position for the mural circle. The whole is baaed (A 
the solid rock. The Professor of Practical Astronomy has aparU. 
ments in the building, for his convenience in making observatiooa. 
Society tf Jntiquariei.'^Tbis Society was established by Royal 



EDINBURGH. 689 

charter in 1780* The members hold meetings during winter for 
the discussion of antiquarian subjects; and they have collected a 
museum of ancient armour, utensils, charters, coins, warlike weapons, 
&c. ; which is open to the inspection of the public, in their hall 
George Street. They also from time to time publish a volume of 
Transactions. 

Medico^Chirurgical Society, — This Society was formed for the 
cultivation of medical and surgical knowledge; and consists of 
members of the medical profession practising in Edinburgh. Du- 
ring winter, monthly meetings are held for the reading of papers 
and discussion of subjects connected with the art. 

Boyal Medical Society. — This Society appears to have origi- 
nated about the time that the medical school of Edinburgh was 
first established in the university. It was instituted by students 
for the purpose of discussing medical subjects for mutual instruc- 
tion; and the celebrated Dr Cullen and Dr Fothergill were 
among its earliest and most active members. None of its records, 
however, prior to 1737 have been preserved. Since that period 
a great proportion of the students who have graduated at the uni- 
versity have been members of this society; and it includes among 
these almost all the men of eminence in the profession in Britain 
and many foreigners. 

In 1778 the Society was erected into a corporate body by Royal 
charter. Four presidents are elected annually by the votes of the 
members, and these preside in rotation at the weekly meetings. 
Ordinary members, after attending the meetings of the Society 
for three years, and reading a dissertation on some medical sul> 
ject, become extraordinary members, when farther attendance 
on the meetings of the society ceases to be imperative. The 
apartments of the society are in Surgeons' Square, and consist of 
a hall, museum, library, containing a most valuable collection of 
books, and rooms for the porter or sub-librarian. 

Wemerian Natural History Society. — This Society was esta- 
blished in 1808 by Professor Jameson and a few gentlemen de- 
voted to the study of natural history. It holds a charter from the 
magistrates of Edinburgh. There are four classes of members ; 
ordinary, non-resident, honorary, and foreign, with a class of as- 
sociates or corresponding members. The communications to the 
Society relate to the several departments of natural history. Six 
octavo volumes of memoirs, containing many interesting papers, 
have been published by the Society. 
The Speculative Society. — This Society was instituted in 1764 by 



690 EDINBURGHSlflRE. 

five indiyidualsy then very young men; one of whom was W. 
Creech, afterwards a celebrated bookseller, and Lord Provost of 
Edinburgh ; another, Mr Maconochie, afterwards Lord Mea- 
dowbank. The Society afterwards included among its members 
most of those names celebrated in the litffratureof Edinburgh during 
the last century. In 1769 the Society obtained apartments in the 
college in which to hold its meetings, and these meetings were 
countenanced by Principal Robertson and others connected with 
the university. The Society now possesses a hali in the university 
for its own exclusive use, and a library containing ISOO select vo- 
lumes. Its meetings are held weekly during the winter session. 
T4ie subjects of discussion belong to general literature, history, 
and politics. The entry fee is L.5, 5s., and the annual subscrip- 
tion, L.1, Is. 

Societies connected with the University. — The literary and scien- 
tific Societies connected with the university meet in a hall common 
to them all, on alternate nights, during the winter and summer ses- 
sions. The societies are the following: — The Royal Physical 
Society was instituted in 1771, and obtained a royal charter in 
I78& It formerly possessed a hall and library in Hunter's Park ; 
but the society falling into pecuniary difficulties, these were sokl, 
and the library removed to a room in the university, adjoining 
the ball of meeting. From 1782 to 1813, various minor societies 
merged into this, and in 1839 the number of members on its list 
exceeded 1 300. Its discussions, which at one time embraced medical 
subjects, are now confined to general science. The government of 
the society is vested in four presidents, elected annually, and five 
members of council, with secretary. The entrance money is L.!, 5s^ 
and a payment of one guinea for two years afterwards. The Dia^ 
leetic Society is composed of students at the University exclusively, 
and it meets once a-week« for ** the prosecution of literary and 
philosophical debate." It has existed since 1787, and probably 
was founded before this period ; but its original minutes have been 
lost. TTie Scots Law Society was instituted in 1815 by students 
of the legal profession, for the discussion of 8ubj.ects connected 
with law. It possesses a library of law books, principally standard 
works of reference. 71%e Diagnostic Society was instituted in 1816 
by a few students of divihity and others, for improvement in lite« 
rature and philosophy. The Hunierian Medical Society was esta- 
blished in 1824 by a number of medical students, its objects being 
the discussion of subjects connected with medical science. Il 
reckons on its list a considerable number of members ; its fiinds 



. BDINBURGH. 691 

Are in a flourishing state; and it has a library ol upwards of 200 
volumes. 

Bayal Botanic Garden.-^SW Andrew Balfour and Sir Robert 
Sibbald, two zealous naturalists, were the founders of a Botanic 
garden in Edinburgh. The forn^er returned from abroad, and 
settled in his native eity in the year 1670. He immediately be- 
gan the formation of a garden for his own private amusement ; but 
a few years afterwards, his friend Mr Patrick Murray of Livings 
stone dying, and leaving a collection of 1000 species of plants, a 
piece of ground about forty feet square, in the north yards of the 
Abbey, was procured, and the plants were removed to that spot;. 
The collection still increasing, a new piece of ground was obtained 
from the magistrates adjoining the grounds of Trinity Hospital, 
which still bears the name of ** the Old Phvsic Garden/' Here, 
under the care of the original founders, who had numerous cor- 
respondents abroad who sent home rare plants, and from the zeal 
of a young botanist of the name of Sutherland, who was appointed 
superintendent, the garden became a valuable collection of plants^ 
a catalogue of which was printed by Sutherland in 1683. 

In 1767, a new garden was formed on the west side of the road 
to Leith, on a more extensive plan than the old one, and in a 
better situation. The ground included about five acres, and con- 
tained two hot-houses, a large green -house and dry stove, with a 
good collection of exotic plants, especially those used in medicine. 
Dr Hope, the then professor of botany, introduced many rare 
plants into this garden, in the construction of which he bad taken 
an active interest. 

In consequence of the extension of the city towards Leith, and 
encroachments on the garden grounds, another change was 
projected and carried into effect about the year. 1828-4. At that 
time twelve acres of ground were purchased on the Inverleith pro- 
perty. This area was surrounded by a wall, and the interior was 
laid out as a garden, on a much more extensive plan than before. 
A range of hot- houses and green-houses was built on the most ap- 
proved modern plan ; also a large and commodious lecture room, and 
a handsome cottage for the superiDtendent. Since that time, addi^ 
tional hot-houses have been erected for the large palms and other 
exotics. The garden is laid out with great taste, and at the same 
time with scientific precision, under the able superintendence of Mr 
M^Nab. Besides the hot and green-house departments, there is 
a large sheltered wall, with warm borders, where many shrubs and 
plants of tropical climates have been trained to bear the open air.. 



692 EDINBURGHSHIBE. 

The centre of the garden contains arrangements of British and Eu- 
ropean plants, and a small lake for rearing aquatic species. I'be 
herbarium of the late Dr Hope is preserved in the museum ; and 
a monument, which the same professor erected in the former gar- 
den to the memory of Linnaeus, has been transferred to the pre- 
sent During the summer session, lectures are delivered in the 
class- room of the garden by the Professor of Botany in the Uni- 
versity. By a liberal arrangement, the public are admitted at all 
times into the garden ; and every Saturday the hot-houses are 
thrown open for inspection. An annual grant of L.419 is allowed 
by Government for the support of the gardens, and an allowance 
of L.25 from the town-council. 

Highhiul Society. — This Society was instituted ki 1785, at first 
with the objectof promoting agricultural improvements in the High- 
lands, but subsequently its plan was enlarged so as to comprehend 
the whole of Scotland. Its members consist of landed proprietors 
and other gentlemen practically engaged in the pursuits of agri- 
culture. Its objects are the improvement of agriculture by com- 
municating among the members, and diffusing over the country 
every information regarding the art, — by holding general and local 
meetings for the exhibition of farm* stock, — and by affording pre- 
miums for the same, and for the invention and improvement of 
agricultural instruments, new varieties of grain, grasses, and other 
seeds. One great meeting is held annually in one or other of the 
most populous towns or districts of the country, where stock from 
all quarters is exhibited, and where agricultural subjects are discus- 
sed, and reports are given in of new experiments, or new inven* 
tions. More frequent meetings are held at the Society's Rooms, 
Melbourne Place, Edinburgb, where there is an extensive agricul- 
tural museum, and where a lectureship on agricultural chemistry is 
now established, and practical analyses of soils carried on. The 
funds of the Society arise from the entry-money and annual sub- 
scriptions of members. 

A school of Veterinary Surgery was established several years ago 
under the auspices of the Society, which is now attended by nume- 
rous pupils. Premiums are also given for geological surveys 
of the various counties, and for the best accounts of coal mines 
and mining operations, stone quarries, and other matters connect- 
ed with agriculture and the arts. 

The Transactions and Prize Essays of the society are published 
along with the Quarterly Journal of Agriculture. 

Caledotiian Horticultural Society.-^-'This Society was established 



BDIN BURGH. 693 

in 1809. Its object is the *^ promotiog and improving the culti- 
vation of the best kinds of. fruits, of the. most choice flowec^, 
and of those vegetables which are the most useful in the kitchen. 
For this purpose a certain number of prize medals or premiums are 
awarded annually to such persons as are declared by proper judges 
to be entitled to the preference in the production of these, and in 
the investigation, by experiment, of subjects proposed by the society. 
Communications are also received on any subject connected with 
horticulture. Though not directly suggested by the society, such 
communications are read at the quarterly meetings, and those papers 
deemed of sufficient importance are laid before the public in the 
Society's Memoirs.'' The society consists of honorary members, 
ordinary and corresponding. The ordinary members pay an an- 
nual subscription of two guineas. 

In 1824 a piece of ground of eight acres in extent adjoining the 
Botanic Garden was purchased by Government for an experimen* 
tal garden, and this garden was consigned to the Society on a long 
and renewable lease. An annual grant of L.200 a-year was also 
bestowed towards the support of the garden ; to be continued as 
long as the members contribute L.300 a-year for the same pur- 
pose. The garden is furnished with hot-houses and frames ; and 
is divided into various departments, where experiments in horticul- 
ture are carried on. Members and their friends have access to 
the garden at any time, and the whole is under the management 
of a practical superintendent. Annual exhibitions of garden pro- 
duce and public promenades are held here during the summer 
months. 

So^ Scottish Society of Arts. — This Society was established 
in 1821. Its object is the encouragement of the useful arts by 
the bestowal of premiums for improvements and useful inventions* 
During the winter months, the Society holds an evening meeting 
every fortnight in the rooms of the Royal Institution, where sub- 
jects connected with the arts are discussed, models exhibited, and 
specimens of new or improved products of manufacture. In 1841 
this society obtained a royal charier. 

Botanical Society. — This society was instituted in 1836 for the 
cultivation of botanical science, for the formation of an herbariua» 
of foreign and British plants, and of a library and museum for 
general consultation and reference. 

2joologicaJl Gardens. — In 1838, a few individuals began a collec* 
tiou of living animals, which gradually increasing, an Association 



694 EDINBURGHSHIDE. 

was formed lakl a piece of ground procured id front of Clermoirt 
C/esiceiit This ground has been tastefully and appropriately laid 
out with the necessary accommodation for birds and quadrupeds, 
and an interesting collection is gradually being formed. The 
gardens are upheld by the annual subscriptions of members and 
the donations of the public. 

Literature, — Scotland holds a high place in the Itterature of 
Europe. Edinburgh, as the capital, became in modern times the 
centre of its literature, and the resort of its literary men. A galaxy 
of these adorned the early part of last century, of whom it is only 
necessary to mention a few of the most prominent names, such 
as Hume, Robertson, Smith, Reid, Campbell, Kames, Blair ; 
while an equally brilliant circle adorned the close of the last 
and the beginning of the present century, among whom were 
conspicuous, Dugald Stewart, Playfair, Mackenzie, Burns. The 
periodical works of the Mirror and the Lounger, no mean suc- 
cessors of the Spectator of Addison, had served not a little to 
raise the fame of the Edinburgh press. An Encyclopaedia, on a 
plan commensurate with that of the famous French periodical, 
also at this time attracted much public attention ; and by degrees 
Edinburgh began to rival London as a literary and publishing mart. 
In October 1802, the first number of the Edinburgh Review ap- 
peared under the auspices of Jeffrey, Brougham, Homer, and 
Sidney Smith. In a short time this periodical rose to be the first 
of its class ; and, in a few years, attained a circulation of upwards 
of 10,000 copies — an extent of sale, till that time, almost unpre- 
cedented in any work of literature. Next arose Sir Walter Scott ; 
who, for a succession of years, poured forth his stores of imagina- 
tion and antiquarian lore, with a facility, rapidity, and success 
which has had no parallel in ancient or modern times. 

The following works are at present periodically published in 
Edinburgh : — The Edinburgh Review, quarterly. The Edin- 
burgh Medical and Surgical Journal, commenced in 1805, pub- 
lished quarterly. Blackwood's Magazine, begun in 1817, pub- 
lished monthly. Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, quarterly; be- 
gun in 1818. Presbyterian Review ; quarterly. North British 
Review, quarterly; begun in 1844. Tait's Magazine; monthly. 
Quarterly Journal of Agriculture, and Prize Essays and Transac- 
tions of the Highland Society. 

Newspapers, — The first Scottish newspaper was printedi it is be- 
lieved, ift Leith in 1651, and was called Mercurius Scoticm. Itj 
as well as several others that succeeded, were but short lived. 



EDINBURGH. 



695 



The two oldest papers of any note in Edinburgh are the Coii- 
rant and Mercury. The former was established some short time 
before the year 1710; for in that year liberty is granted by the 
town-council to the celebrated Daniel De Foe to publish it, in 
room of the deceased Adam Bog. The Mercury was conducted 
by Thomas Ruddiman, A. M. Both papers were at first of small 
size, and contained a few local advertisements and meagre para- 
graphs of news. 

For a long period the Edinburgh newspapers were merely com* 
pilations from the London prints, and seldom ventured on any 
original speculations, especially of a party political nature. Now, 
however, the Edinburgh, and indeed the greater proportion of 
the Scottish newspapers, are conducted with much talent. 
The following is a state of the circulation of the Edinburgh news* 
papers for the last three years, 6th January 1840 to 5tb Ja- 
nuary 1843. 



Scotsman, 

Courant, 

Mercury, 

Advertiser, 

Journal, 

Chronicle, 

Observer, 

Post, 

Post & Standard, 

Witness, 

True Scotsman, 


Number of Stamps. 


Published. 


ClRCUI.ATION.1 


1840. 


1841. 


1842. 


1840 

2410 

1746 

803 

1352 

1317 

1006 

619 

846 

• • • 

1495 

a^7 


1841 

2552 

1796 

808 

1375 

1274 

615 

769 

• • • 

762 
1859 

« • • 


1842 

2882 

1787 

860 

1413 

1250 

897 

577 

• * • 

702 

2328 

328 


250,502 

274,150 

126,000 

142,000 

68,500 

57,000 

65,000 

44,000 

15.%^ 
43,500 


268,000 

280,100 

126,000 

143,000 

67,500 

32,000 

80,000 

so/ioo 

195,000 
6,700 


294,500 

280,600 

135,000 

147,000 

65,000 

46,650 

60,000 

78/)00 

251,437 

17,050 


Wednesday H Saturday, 
Mon., Thurs., and Sat. 

Do. 
Tuesday and Friday, 
Wednesday, 
Saturday, 
Tuesday and Friday, 

Wednesday & Saturday, 
Saturday, 



The Edinburgh Gazette is published by authority every 
Tuesday and Friday. The North British Advertiser, devoted 
entirely to advertisements, is published every Saturday, and cir« 
culated gratis to the extent of 19,000. A Supplement to this pa* 
per, containing articles of news and literature, is also published 
every Saturday. 

In 1832, the Messrs Chambers commenced a cheap weekly pe- 
riodical con^ned strictly to popular literature and science. This 
journal has now an extensive circulation in all parts of Britain. 
Several other cheap works by the same publishers have obtained 
a very extensive circulation. Indeed the weekly quantity of print* 
ed works, amounting to a quarter of a million of sheets, issuing 
from this establishment, which circulate to every town, village, and 
hamlet in Britain, is unprecedented in the annals of literature. 
Although, of late years, Edinburgh has not perhaps retained iit^ 



696 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

high status as a publisbiDg mart, yet it still continues to carry on 
an extensive trade in printing and publishing. Besides the peri- 
odicals which issue from the house of the Messrs Blackwood, 
works on general literature are published by them. A new and 
extensive edition of the Encyclopaedia Britannica has been pub- 
lished by the Messrs Black. The editions of the works of Scott, 
which have successively issued from the house of Cadell and Com- 
pany, have also been numerous during the last four years, and few 
works can rival the rich and chastely illustrated edition of the 
novels which is now in progress. 

For school books and educational works, as well as for works 
on general literature, few establishments in Britain are on a 
larger scale than that of Messrs Oliver and Boyd, who are both 
printers and publishers. 

Connected with the printing business in Edinbui^h are several 
stereotype founderies ; as also founderies for the manufacture of 
common letter-press types. 

Typography. — There are 56 printing establishments in Edin- 
burgh, some of them on a large scale. The Messrs Chambers 
have ten printing machines, and employ about 150 workmen. 
The whole number of workmen employed in printing is upwards 
of 1000, and in other operations connected with this trade about 
500. There are 110 booksellers and stationers in Edinburgh, 
49 of which are copartnery. 

Societies for encouragemetU of the Fine Arts. — Even in the ear- 
lier and ruder periods of Scottish history, there were not wanting 
indications of a taste among the better classes for the fine arts. 
In the early part of the twelfth century, the taste for Gothic 
architecture was at its height ; and King Robert Bruce is said to 
hav^ fostered the fine arts by inviting foreign artists to take up 
their residence in Scotland. James I., who possessed an elegant 
taste and fine imagination, was not backward in encouraging this 
taste among his subjects ; and James V. had his apartments in 
Stirling Castle curiously ornamented with carved work in wood, 
which shewed no mean skill in the art. The earliest native ar- 
tist of eminence was George Jameson, born at Aberdeen in 1566. 
This painter, who has usually been called the Scottish Vandyke, 
from bis soft and delicate touch, and his fine colouring, was a pu- 
pil of the famous Reubens at Antwerp ; and on his return to his 
native country, began to paint portraits in oil and historical land- 
scape pictures. Charles I. sat to him for his portrait, as well as 
many of the other great characters of the day* His picture of the 



EDINBURGH. 697 

Sybils, as well as several other of his works, are in the colleges of 
his native city. 

Alexander, a pupil and brother-in-law to Jameson, was another 
artist of some note. To these succeeded the elder Scougal, whose 
style is said to bear a great resemblance to that of Sir Peter Lely. 
The younger Scougal was almost the only artist in Scotland during 
the period of the Revolution in 1688. After this period, two fo» 
xeign artists settled in Scotland under the patronage of the Duke 
of Queensberry^ These were Nicholas Hude, formerly one of the 
directors of the French Academy, obliged to fly his country on 
the repeal of the edict of Nantz, and Sir John Medina, a native 
of Brussels, some of whose portraits are to be seen in the Hall 
of the College of Surgeons* After the Union several artists of 
some note appeared ; Aikman, the friend of Allan Ramsay the 
poet ; Alexander, a descendant of the Scottish Vandyke ; Allan 
Ramsay, the son of the poet ; Richard Wait and George Mar* 
shall, the latter a painter of still-life ; and James Norrie, a land- 
scape painter. 

In 1753 two celebrated printers of Glasgow, Robert and An-* 
drew Foulis, had the merit of establishing an academy for the fine 
Arts in their native city, the first of the kind in Britain, for that 
in Somerset House was not commenced till several years after. 
This academy, however, as might have been expected, did not in 
those days receive that public support which alone could have ren- 
dered it permanent. It did some service, however, to the arts 
during the few years in which it existed ; but with the death of its 
patrons, it decayed. 

John and Alexander Bunciman learned the rudiments of their 
art from Pavilon, a Frenchman, who had settled in Edinburgh. 
These brothers afterwards went to Italy, where they farther studied 
their art, and there John died. Before his death, he is said to 
have destroyed the greater part of his paintings, with that sensi- 
tive feeling towards excellence which characterizes true genius. 
In 1771 the younger brother Alexander returned to Edinbui^h; 
and in this year the Board of Trustees for the encouragement of 
fnanufactures having established an academy of painting, Bun- 
ciman was appointed master. Contemporary with the Runcimans 
was Jacob More, a landscape painter of considerable talent, 
who died in London in 179dL Brown, Nasmyth, Gavin Ha- 
milton, and David Allan, also flourished at the same period. 
In 1785, on the death of Bunciman, David Allan succeeded to 



698 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

the superintendence of the Trustees' Academy, and continued 
there till his death in 1797. The next master was Mr John 
Graham, who was selected, from the merit of his paintings, out 
of nine or ten other competitors, to fill this oflSce. At this 
time, the trustees procured for the academy a set of casts from 
antique statues ; and Mr Graham proved an intelligent and en- 
thusiastic instructor. Among his pupils were Sir David Wilkie, 
Sir William Allan, Patrick Gibson, David Thomson, Alexander 
Frazer, William Sheriff; William Lizars and John Burnett, en«. 
gravers; and William Scoular, sculptor. 

As a portrait painter, the late Sir Henry Raeburn was almost 
unrivalled, and most successful in his art. In boldness and breadth 
of colouring, in ease and graceful attitude, and in fidelity to 
nature, he much resembled Sir Joshua Reynolds. The portraits 
of the late President of the Scottish Academy, Mr George Wat- 
son, were also of a superior order. The landscapes of the Rev. Mr 
Thomson of Duddingston have all the charms of the best old mas* 
ters ; and those of the late M. A. Nasmyth, in a different style, 
possess much excellence. 

On the death of Mr Graham, Mr Andrew Wilson was appoint- 
ed master of the academy ; to him succeeded Sir William Allan ; 
and on his retirement Mr J. Duncan filled the situation till his 
untimely death in 1845. 

Towards the end of last century various attempts were made to 
form an association of artists in Edinburgh, but they all failed. In 
1808^ a few of the most talented artists clubbed their paintings 
together, and got up an exhibition. This so far succeeded, and 
was repeated for several years. On several occasions, exhibitions 
were got up by individual artists, and all these tended to foster 
in the public a growing taste for art. At length in 1819 a num- 
ber of noblemen and gentlemen combined to form an InstUuJtum 
for the Encouragement of the Fine Arte in Scotland* The first 
exhibition opened in March of that year, with a collection of an- 
cient pictures^ at the rooms of the academy, which they rented 
from the trustees of the Royal Institution on the Mound. In 
1827, this institution was incorporated by royal charter, and for 
several years it continued annually to exhibit the works of living 
artists, and to forward by every means the progress of native talent. 
In consequence, however, of a feeling among the artists themselves, 
that they were teo much excluded from the practical management of 
the affairs of the institution, a secession took place; and a new Asso- 



EDINBURGH. 699 

ciation of artists was formed in 1826, and a rival exhibition opened in 
the Waterloo Rooms in 1827. For several years, this Association con- 
tinued to have annual exhibitions, which were well attended ; and 
pictures were sold to a considerable amount Almost the whole of 
the artists ultimately joined this new academy, and in 1838 they 
were incorporated by royal charter, under the name of the Royal 
ScoiH$h Academy 4/ Patniing and Sculpture. It consists of thirty- 
five academicians and twelve associates, is conducted by a pre- 
sident, council, and secretary, and has an annual exhibition of paint- 
ings, open to all living artists, in the rooms of the Royal Institu- 
tion. 

Royal InsHtutioTL — The Board<if Commissioner's^ Trustees for the 
Encouragement of Manufactories, Fisheries, and the Arts in Scot- 
land, — This Board had its origin at the period of the Union of the 
iwo kingdoms. By a part of the 15th article of the Treaty 
of Union, (:22d July 1706, 5th Anne, c. 8), it is agreed that 
L.2000 Sterling per annum, for the space of seven years, shall 
be applied towards encouraging and promoting the manufacture 
of coarse wool, within those shires in Scotland which produce the 
wool; and that the first L.2000 Sterling be paid at Martinmas 
next, and so yearly at Martinmas during the space aforesaid; and 
afterwards, the same shall be wholly applied towards the encourag- 
ing and promoting the fisheries and such other manufactures and 
improvements in Scotland as may conduce to the general good of 
the united kingdoms. This may be considered as Scotland's grand 
charter of right to the annual sum which she has since received 
for the encouragement of her manufactures, out of the national 
funds, and which cannot be take away without a direct infringe- 
ment of the Treaty of Union. 

In 1718, seventeen years after the above treaty, by the act 5th 
George I. c. 20, it is provided that the said sum of L.2000 per an- 
num shall continue and be payable for ever, and shall be paid or 
payable at the four most usual feasts in the year, by even and equal 
portions ; and by 14th clause of the same act, it is enacted and de- 
clared, by the authority aforesaid, that the same shall be wholly ap- 
plied towards the encouraging and promoting the fisheries, and such 
other manufactures and improvements in Scotland as may most con- 
duce to the general good of the united kingdom, according to the te- 
nor and true meaning of the said 15th article of the said Treaty of 
Union, and to none other use, interest, or purpose whatever. And 
by the 15lh section of the same act it is further provided, that 



700 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

the said sum shall not be liable to any arrestment or attachment 
that shall be laid thereupon, any law, custom, or usage to the 
contrary notwithstanding. The 1 7th clause of this act proyides, 
that at any time, upon payment by the Parliament of Great 
Britain of the full sum of L.40,000 Sterling, without any de- 
duction or abatement whatsoever to be made out of the same, or 
any part, thereof, and all arrears, (if any such be) of the said an- 
nuity or yearly sum of L.2000 then due, computing the same quar- 
terly to the end of the next preceding quarter of a year, and from 
thenceforth by the day, until the day of such payment made,-— 
then, and not till then, and from thenceforth, the said annuity or 
yearly fund of L.2000 shall cease and determine. By the act 
12th George I. it is provided, that if the rate of threepence 
per bushel, to be levied on malt in Scotland, shall produce a 
greater sum than L.20,000, clear of all charges of management, 
the surplusage so produced over and above the said dear sum of 
L.20,000 shall be wholly applied towards the encouraging and 
promoting the fisheries and such other manufactures and improve- 
ments in Scotland as may most conduce to the general good of 
the united kingdom, and to none other use, intent, or purpose 
whatsoever, in such manner as shall hereafter be directed by Par- 
liament. 

In 1726, the act 18 Geo. I. c 30, was passed for encouraging 
and promoting fisheries and other manufactures and improvements 
in Scotland. Upon this act followed the royal patent of his Ma- 
jesty King George II., ** registrate and sealed at Edinburgh, July 
18) 1727,'' in which, inter alia^ by the 18th section, a board of 
commissioners are nominated and appointed, any five or more of 
them to be a quorum, with full power and authority to ezeroiae 
the several powers and authorities thereinafter mentioned. The 
funds under the management of this board were, 1. A sum of 
L. 14,000 Sterling, arising from'the seven years of the annual sum 
of L.2000, which was to have been devoted to the encouragement 
ct the manufacture of coarse Scottish wool, but of which no part 
had ever as yet been appropriated. 2. The said annual sum of 
Lte2000, which was to be devoted to the encouragement of the 
fisheries and manufactures of Scotland, and which, by act of Par* 
iiament, became payable from an.d after the year 1719, not having 
been called for until the constitution of the board in 1727 produced 
eight years of it, making L. 10,000, — which, added to the above- 

jaentiooed L. 14,000, made L.30,000 in all ; which sum was paid 

3 



EDINBURGH. 701 

into the hands of their cashier on 29th December 1727. d. The 
surplus of the malt duty produced from 1734 to 1784 a grand 
total of L.36,000 ; but it afterwards fell off greatly in subsequent 
years, and yielded nothing after the year 1799. 

Out of these sums the board was enabled to save L. 10,000, 
which they added to the L.dO,000 already accumulated : hence 
the principal fund of L. 40,000, which was* placed in the Royal 
fiank at 5 per cent, interest The interest of this sum added to 
the L.2000 of annuity made the income L.4000 a-year, be* 
sides those sums which arose from the surplusage of the malt 
duty posterior to 1784. 

About ten years after the Rebellion of 1745, an act was passed, 
126 George 11. c 20, for encouraging and improving the manufac- 
turing of linen in the Highlands of Scotland, by which it was pro- 
vided, ^Uhat from and after the expiration of the term for which 
ihe bounties on the ej^ortation of British and Irish coarse linen 
by the said hereinbefore recited acts are granted, continued, 
and made payable, the sum of L.dOOO be paid yearly, and every 
year for the space of nine years, to the cashier of the said 
commissioners and trustees for improving Bsheries and manu- 
factures of Scotland, to be charged and chargeable upon and pay- 
able out of any of the customs, ^duties, excises, or other revenues 
in Scotland introduced by the Treaty of Union, or to which the 
subjects of Scotland are or shall be liable, and to be applied by 
the said commissioners and trustees for encouraging and improv- 
ing the manufacturing of linens in the Highlands of Scotland only, 
and only in those parts thereof wherein the manufacture of linens 
have either not been already introduced, or if the same hath been 
introduced have not yet arrived to any considerable degree of per- 
fection/' The purposes to which this annual sum is devoted by 
the act are *^lbr instructing and exciting the inhabitants of most 
parts of Scotland to raise, prepare, and spin flax and hemps, to 
be used in the manufacture of coarse linen, and to weave yam 
there spun into such linen, and for providing the said inhabitants 
with 6t materials and utensils for those purposes, and for distri- 
buting the rewards and prizes to the growers, preparers, and spin* 
ners of such flax and hemp, and to the weavers and other manu- 
facturers of such linen in respect to the quality or excellence of 
the flax or hemp so raised and prepared, and of the yarn so spun, 
wove, or otherwise manufactured, and for such other like uses as 
by the said trustees shall be thought proper for promoting the true 

EDINBURGH. Yy 



70S EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

interest of this act/' No part was to be applied in encouraging tbe 
manufacture of saiUcloth. The commissioners \iirere yearly to make 
up accounts of the moneys ; and report proceedings to the annual com«> 
mittee of the Convention of Royal Burghs of Scotland ; and at 
Christmas 1753, the commissioners were to lay a plan for the ap- 
plication of the said sum before his Majesty, aud in any other year, 
any other plan for the like purpose. 

In consequence of this Act, the Board established Factories at 
three different stations in the Highlands, and appointed skilful 
and trustworthy persons to superintend them. And the commis-* 
sioners did all in their power by money grants, and by the distri-* 
bution of looms and other manufacturing implements, to lead 
the people into manufacturing habits, and so to plant the lineis 
manufacture in the North. But at the end of the nine years» 
when the L.dOOO ani^uity ceased to be given, the manufiicture 
gradually declined, and at last finally ceased in those Highland dis- 
tricts where the money had been distributed. 

By the act 10 George I II., c. 40, seven-fifteenth parts of certain 
duties on foreign linens imported into Great Britain were granted 
for encouraging the growth of flax and hemp in Scotland, and 
placed under the management of the Board of Commissioners of 
Scottish Manufactures; the other eight-fifteenth parts of these 
duties having been granted to England for the same purpose. 
From this source the board for many years derived large annual 
sums varying in amount for each year. Then, they distributed 
over the country, in public premiums, salaries to certain inspecting 
oflScers, and otherwise for the encouragement of the culture of flax 
and hemp, though very little hemp was thereby produced. 

In the year 1787, however, an act was passed (*21 George IIL 
c 13,) granting in lieu of the fluctuating fund, which was derived 
from the above-mentioned duties, a fixed annual sum of L.2956, 
13s? Sd., being the amount of the average produce of the seven* 
fifteenths of the said duties. This sum was annually distributed 
over the country in premiums for the encouragement of the growth 
of flax, in the same manner as that arising from the seven-fifteenths 
till the year 1833^ when the Treasury intimated that Government 
had resolved to withdraw the flax and hemp fund, which was done 
accordingly. This appears to have been done solely by an act of 
the Treasury, and without any legislative repeal of the act by 
which the annuity of L.2956, 13s. 8d. was granted. The Boards 
however, acquiesced in the withdrawal of the flax fund, the distri«* 



EDINBUBGH. 703 

bution of which had not produced all the beneficial effects that 
had been anticipated from it. Such were the nature and amount 
ef the funds placed within the control of the commissioners. 

The £rst meeting of the Board was held on the 20th July 1727, 
wheo the commissioners proceeded to carry into effect the prov4« 
sioBS of the act of Parliament. They held out encouragement 
for the manufacture of coarse wool, by pecuniary aid, by prizes, 
and other means. They instituted regulations for the encourage* 
ment of the fisheries, appointed officers to superintend them, and 
to give practical instructions for the proper curing of the fish ;- and 
awarded bounties to the vessels engaged, and for the discovery of 
herring shoals and ced banks. By these jneansj^ they gradually fos« 
tered into existence those fisheries which have since been carried 
to such a scale of importance ; and for the regulation and superin- 
tendence of which they afterwards instituted a special board. 
The Commissioners also brought over a number of weavers from 
Picardy in France, for the introduction of cambric weaving, and 
purchased ground for their establishment in the immediate pre« 
oincts of the cky of Edinburgh, where Picardy Place now stands. 
They encouraged the manufacture of linen by bounties and other** 
wise, until they brought it to so high a state of prosperity, that in 
1822, 36,268,530 yards were manufactured, valued in the books 
of the stentmasters at L.1,396,295 Sterling. 

But, in the following year, an act was passed doing away with 
the law requiring linen to be inspected and stamped by public of- 
ficers ; the whole of whom were consequently set aside, with small 
pensions, according to their services. The Board, however, still 
went on giving a small encouragement to the linen manufacturer 
until the year 1 882, — when all their exertions in this particular were 
terminated. * 

So far back as the year 1760« the Board saw the important ia- 
ffuence which a school for teaching drawing and design would pro^ 
duce on the improvement of manu&ctures; and it was in that year, 
that the commissioners appointed their first master for that pur^ 
pose. This appointment, and the grad4]al accumulatioa which 
the Board afterwards made of casts, ancient statues, and frag- 
ments of ancient architecture for the use of students, together with 
the necessity of providing apartments for the meetings of the 
Board, induced the Commissioners to come to the resolution of 
erecting the building now called the Royal Institution. They 
accordingly procured a warrant from His Majesty George IV.^ 



704 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

dated 28th December 1822 ; which, with sabsequent warrants af> 
terwards panted, empowered them to erect the present buildii^ 
from their accumulated funds at an expense of L.40,000. This 
splendid edifice is from a plan of Mr Playfair, and the last finish 
has lately been gi?en to it by surmounting it with a statue of 
Her Majesty Queen Victoria, executed by Mr SteeL The 
building includes a grand gallery for the collection of casts ; apart- 
ments for carrying on the business of the two Boards of manufac- 
tures and of fisheries ; a suit of apartments where the Koyal Insti- 
tution for the Encouragement of the Fine Arts has its gallery of 
ancient pictures ; and apartments for the meeting of the Royal So- 
ciety of Edinburgh, which two last Societies are tenants under 
the Board. 

The funds under the control of the Commissioners amount to 
L.4170, lis. 6d. of annual income. The annual payments of 
money granted to the Royal Institution, the Horticultural Society, 
&C. at present amount to L.1000, to which falls to be added the 
compensation annuities still payable to the retired, stampmasters, 
amounting to L.695, 6s., and the feu-duty of the institution, 
L.125, making in all L.1820, 68. 3d., leaving of disposable in- 
come L.2350, 5s. 3d. This sum was expended, 1. In premiums 
for manufactures annually, L.700 ; 2. Salaries of the three mas- 
ters of the school of design, and the lecturers on pictorial anatomy, 
L. 700 ; 3. The official salaries chaiged on the board, L. 671. 
The remainder is disposed of in the purchase of casts, and objects 
connected with the school of design, and other contingencies. 

The premiums granted at the public expositions of manufac- 
tures were intended to encourage new manufactures, or the intro- 
duction from abroad of such as had no previous existence in this 
country — to foster such manufactures as were inferior in Scotland, 
into a greater degree of excellence. But so soon as any of these 
arrived at a certain degree of perfection and prosperity, the Com* 
missioners considered it to be their duty to leave them to their own 
efforts* 

The premiums were awarded by a Committee, which called in the 
aid of experienced tradesmen, acquainted with the different kinds of 
goods; the whole being conducted in the most impartial manner. 
But the Commissioners, after much consideration and long ex- 
perience, have been for a length of time so satisfied that the most 
effectual method of encouraging manufactures is to improve the 

taste in design, by furnishing means for educating pupils com- 

8 



EDINBURGH. 705 

pletely in all the departments of art, for the purpose of enabling 
them to produce beautiful designs, that, with the approbation of 
the Crown, they have resolved to devote the greater part of their 
funds for this purpose. In order to command sufficient funds for 
this important object, they have been compelled to give up, for a 
time, so much of their former scheme as provided for regular an- 
nual exhibitions of manufactures; though it is understood that 
they contemplate having them occasionally, when their funds will 
admit of it. In this way, they have been enabled to place their 
school of Design in a most efficient state. It now consists of one 
class for the study of drawing from the ancient statues, under 
one master; a class for the study of pictorial colouring under an- 
other master ; a life academy under the especial care of the head 
master ; a school for instructing pupils in all the various depart- 
ments of ornamental design, both in form and in colour, includ- 
ing architecture, gedmetry, perspective, modelling, fresco, and 
encaustic painting, &c., divided into classes, and under the super- 
intendence of one master and an assistant ; to all which is added 
a course of lectures on Pictorial Anatomy. 

The school is in the most active and flourishing condition. The 
number of pupils is at present about ISO, all of whom receive in- 
struction gratis. Candidates are at first admitted as probationers 
for three months, during which period the board is enabled to 
ascertain whether their talents are such as to warrant their con- 
tinuance, and, if so, to determine as to what department they 
shall be attached. 

Prizes are awarded to the most eminent pupils. The annual 
exhibitions of their works have proved the great progress which 
many of them make ; and it may be stated that one of the pupils 
of this school carried off a prize at the competition of the cartoons 
for the designs that are to embellish the new houses of Parliament. 

The sculpture gallery contains casts of the Elgin marbles ; 
casts of all the celebrated aiftique statues, of the well-known Ghi- 
berti gates of Florence; and a series of casts of antique Greek and 
Roman busts of high interest, seeing that they form the only col- 
lection of pictorial busts in Great Britain. This collection wa» 
made at Rome by the Alborini family, from whom they were pur- 
chased for the gallery, where they are now placed. 

The public has free admission to the gallery. Much praise 
is due to the liberarand patriotic efforts of the commissioners 



706 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

iDvhicb are effectively seconded by their zealous and able Secre- 
tary, Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, Bart» 

The Board for the Protection and Encouragement of the Fish- 
eries of Great Britain has also its apartments within the Institu* 
tion building. This board takes a general superintendence of the 
herring and cod fisheries. It also appoints officers at the varioua 
stations for inspecting the fish, to see that they are properly cur- 
ed, and for affixing the stamp of the Board on such as are found 
to be sor 

Association for the Promotion of the Fine Arts in Scotland. — 
This Association was projected in 1834.. The members, by sub- 
scribing one pound per annum, raise a fund which is expeaded i» 
the purchase of the most meritorious paintings exhibited at the 
R^al Scottish Academy during the season. These pictures are 
then disposed of by ballot among the members, and, besides each 
raember^s chance of a prize, he is also presented with an engraving 
of some picture of excellence which has been selected and engrared 
at the expense of the Association. The number of subscribers to 
this Association is now very great ; so that with a large annual sum 
at their disposal, they have been enabled to extend a degree of pa- 
tronage to the Fine Arts of the country hitherto quite unprecedent- 
ed ; and which, even during the few years of the society's exist- 
ence, has had a marked effect on art. The amount of subscrip- 
tions for the last three years has been, 1840, L.6396; 1841, 
L.6767; 1842, L.6590. 

Since the commencement of the Society, there have been realixed 
upwards of L.31,000. Of this sum about L.22,000 have been ex- 
pended in the purchase of paintings and sculpture ; and L.9000 ap- 
propriated to the dissemination of engravings, and to the machi- 
nery necessary to awaken and keep alive an interest in the pro* 
ceedings of the Association, and of Art throughout the country. 
Those who recollect the time when, instead of L.6000 being col- 
lected in one year for the encourageihent of the fine arts, there 
were not L.IOOO distributed among our native artists in six years, 
will best appreciate the importance of the change which has taken 
ptace. 

A New Association for the encouragement of Art was started 
subsequently to the other ; with this difference, that the amount 
of annual subscriptions was divided into various sums, and these 
sums being appropriated among the meriTbers by ballot, each 
holder of a prize exercised his own individual judgment in the 



EDINBURGH. 707 

purchase of a picture, the price of which must not be less than the 
amount of the prize. 

Theairc'RayaL — The earliest dramatic performances were a 
sort of religious mysteries introduced into Scotland from Italy. 
These were performed on festival days in^the churches. There 
were also dramatic pageants in the time of James V I. ; and on 
the entrance of Charles I. into Edinburgh in 1663, a very mag- 
nificent spectacle was represented in the open air, without the 
gates of the city, and near to Heriot's Hospital. After the restora- 
tion, and while the Duke of York had his residence in Holyrood, 
he retained a party of English actors in the palace ; but from this 
period till after the Rebellion of 1715, we do not hear of any re- 
presentation of the kind having been attempted. About this 
period, itinerant performers occasionally exhibited in Merchant 
Tailors* Hall ; the receipts of a full house amountiog to from L.40 
to L.45. This place was soon found to be too small, and in 1746 
a theatre was built in the Canongate, capable of holding a greater 
number of persons. It was in this theatre, then under the ma- 
nagement of Mr Diggs, that Home's Tragedy of Douglas was first 
brought out. In 1767 a Royal patent was obtained; and in 
1769, the present theatre, situated at the north-east corner of the 
North Bridge, was built by subscription. In 1809, Mr H. Sid- 
dons became manager with a new patent, and on the terms that, 
by a payment of L.2000 yearly rent for twenty*one years, the 
theatre was at the expiry of this period to become his property. In 
1830 the patent was again renewed in favour of Mrs H. Siddons, 
and her brother, Mr Murray, the present manager. 

The Adelphi Theatre in Broughton Street, formerly used as a 
minor theatre, is now held in lease by the manager of the Theatre- 
Royal, and is occupied as a summer theatre. 

VL — Magistracy, Law Courts, &c. 

The Town- Council consists of 33 members. According to the 
ancient set of the borough, the magistrates were elected from a 
corporation of the merchants, or higher class of citizens, called 
the Guildry. In the reign of James III. an act of Parliament 
admitted a delegate from each of the incorporated crafts or trades 
to have a voice in the election of city functionaries ; and a new con* 
stitution was given to the city by James VL, which remained in 
force till the4leform Bill of 1833 gave a uniform mode of elec- 
tion for the whole boroughs of Scotland. 



1505 


T«k>n, incorporated in 


150e 


1581 


Bakers before 


1522 


1581 


Pleahers 


1488 


1593 


Cordiners 


1449 


I48S 


Weavers 


1475 


1475 


Wankers 


1500 


1475 


Boonetmakers 


1590 



708 EDINBUROHSHIBE. 

By the act of James VL tbe following fourteen incorporated 
trades enjoyed the privilege of sending a deacon to represent them 
in the town-counciL 

Surgeons, incorporated in . 

Goldsmiths 

Skinners 

Furriers 

Hammernen 

Wrights . . . 

Masons 

By the act of 1833 tbe crty was divided into five wards or dis- 
tricts* Each ward returns a certain number of councillors in pro* 
portion to its extent and populousness, so that the whole five wards 
return thirty-one councillors. The dean of guild is elected 
by the guildry, and the trades' convener by the incorporated 
trades, making in all thirty-three members of council. All these, 
to be eligible^ must be burgesses or freemen. One»third of those 
who were lowest on the poll go out by annual rotation ; and a 
new election supplies their place. Tbe council elect from among 
this number the chief magistrate and bailies. The Lord Provost 
is High Sheriff} Lord Lieutenant, and Coroner within the ci^ 
and liberties, where he takes precedence of all the great officers 
of state, and of the nobility ; walking on tbe right of Royalty, or 
of the Lord High Commissioner. He ako has the privilege of 
having a sword of state and mace carried before him. L.500 are 
annually allowed from the city's funds for expenses incidental to his 
office. The magistrates can hold a criminal court for all cases oc* 
eurring within the city. They have authority to inflict arbitrary 
punishments. The Lord Provost has even a jurisdiction in cases 
of life and death, but it has fallen into desuetude. 

The Bailie Court and Ten Merk Court are for cases of debt or 
civil trespass. 

The Dean of Guild Court takes cognizance of all building ope- 
rations within the city ; regulates the weights and measures; and 
other matters connected with the guildry and its members. 

Tbe four bailies are ex*officio depute lieutenants, sheriffde- 
putes and justices of the peace within the liberties. 

The magistrates are superiors of the suburbs of the Canongate 
and Elaster and Wester Portsburgh ; and appoint baron bailies for 
these districts. They were formerly superiors of Leith, but by 
the act of 1833 that town was constituted a distinct borough. 
The meetings of council are held in the city haK, Royal Ex« 



EDINBURGH. 709 

change. Edinburgh returns two members to Parliament, and has 
a constituency of 6489. The municipal constituency is 3679. 

Guildry and Merchant Cam;?any.-— The institution of the 
guildry seems to have taken place at an early period, but there 
remains no proper documents to trace its history. The members 
of this corporation consisted of the higher class of citizens in con- 
tradistinction to the trades or artiBcers. The body is still nume- 
rous, though they possess no exclusive privileges of trade, &c. 

The Merchant Company was constituted by royal charter in 
168L It erected ^^ the then haill present merchants, burgesses 
and gild-brethern of the burgh of Edinburgh who were importers 
or sellers of cloatbs, stu£fs, or other merchandize, for the apparell 
or wear of the bodies of men or women, for themselves and sue* 
cessors in their own trade in all time coming, in a society or com* 
pany to be designed the ' Company of Merchants of the City of 
Edinburgh,' " which was ratified by act of Parliament 1 693. A 
subsequent charter and two successive acts of Parliament, the last 
in 1827, have regulated the dues of entry, and authorized the 
company to admit all persons ^* being merchants, burgesses and 
guild' brethren, or entitled to be chosen merchants councillors 
or magistrates of the city of Edinburgh." The entry money is 
L.6a The stock of the company in 1834 was L.23,776. The 
annual income L.1100. From this income is paid in pensions to 
twenty*one decayed members Ii.301. To thirty-eight widows 
L.58(). There is a widows' scheme and fund distinct from the 
common fund, which hins an accumulated capital of about 
L.30,000, and distributes annually to thirty widows about L.740. 
Xhis corporation has the patronage of the several hospitals to 
be afterwards mentioned. 

The boroughs of barony of Canongate, Easter and Wester Ports- 
burgh, and Calton have each their incorporated trades distinct 
from those of the city of Edinburgh. 

Revenues of tlte city. — The revenues of the city are derived 
from an impost on wines, the shore-dues of Leith, duties on articles 
of consumpt brought to the public markets, revenue from land- 
ed property and feu-duties, annuity tax for ministers' stipends^ 
seat rents of city churches, &c., and an impost on ale and beer. 

In consequence of the frequent demands of the Scottish mo- 
narcbs on the city of Edinburgh, and the rapacity of some of their 
prime ministers, it has been from an early period loaded with debt. 
This debt has not been diminished in more modern times partly 



710 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

from a want of careful management in its rulers, but chiefly from 
large sums having been expended on extensive and beneficial im-* 
provements. In 1723 the city's debts amounted to L.7B, 164. In 
1788, in consequence of disposing of some of the landed property 
«nd other arrangements, the debt was reduced to L. 70,000, while 
the gross revenue, exclusive of an appropriated revenue of the ale 
duty, amounted to about L. 10,000. 

In 1833 the city debt had accumulated to about L.400,000,* 
and as the annual income was not nearly sufficient to pay the 
usual legal interest thereon, and as besides this debt the corporation 
had become bound to government for the sum of L.228»374 ad- 
vanced on the Leith docks, the affairs of the city became so em- 
barrassed that the corporation was at last declared insolvent. 
After a great deal of discussion, and after various plans of settle- 
ment had been proposed and rejected, both on the part of the 
creditors and the town«council, an amicable arrangement was at 
length agreed to, and an act of Parliament legalising the settle- 
ment was obtained in July 18d8.f By this act the town- council 
are relieved of their responsibilities and of all concern with 
the Leith docks. The management of these was placed under 
commissioners. Government agreed to post|)one the interest 
4>n the debt due, — an annual sum of L.2000 was secured to 
the city clergy in lieu of the merk per ton, which was abolished, 
and L.2500 for the payment of the necessary expenses of the 
University and High School. Another sum of L.3180 was 
Appropriated to the city creditors, making in all L.7680 of an- 
nual payment to the city of Edinburgh out of the revenues of 
the Leith docks and harbour.} The remaining revenue was to 
be appropriated, under the direction of the commissioners, to 
the improvement of the harbour ; and the residue, if any, to be 
paid towards the ultimate extinction of the government debt The 
affairs of the city of Edinburgh and those of Leith were also en- 
tirely separated. 

* The actual debts valued in 1838 were . L.d9d,755 

Value of liferent annuities . 14,743 

1.406,496 
The life-annutics, being principally old lives, are now rapidly being reduced by 

•deaths. 

f llie active parties in bringing about this settlement were the then Solicitor 

General, Andrew Rutherftird, Esq., Sir William Rae, Bart., and Duncan M'I.Aren, 

Esq., city treasurer. 
X For a more particular statement regarding the Leith harbour revenue, see the 

account of Le»tb. 



BDINBURGH. 'H 

The arrangement with the creditors was, that for every hundred 
pounds of debt they were to receive a bond bearing three pounds 
of perpetual annuity — that these bonds were to be transferable, 
and the debt redeemable only by the payment of the full sum, or 
by purchasing the bonds at their market value. The revenues 
and the properties belonging to the city were divided into two 
classes. The 6rst class contains all the alienable revenues, which 
are conveyed in security to the creditors for the payment of their 
annuities. The gross amount of this sum was calculated at the 
time to amount to L.17,554, including an annuity of L.dl80 
payable from the harbour of Leith; and after deducting L.1600 
as the expense of management, the net produce was taken at 
L.1 5,954. The claim of the creditors of three percent, on the 
whole amount of their debts amounted to L. 12,000, secured over 
the above sum. 

The second class contains the inalienable revenues, which are 
specially secured to the city, and declared by the act not to be 
liable, either directly or indirectly, for any debts or obligations 
contracted by the city prior to the 1st of January 1833, when it 
was declared to be bankrupt. The gross amount of this sum is 
L.50d0 ; the net produce L.4294. 

The following abstract of the revenues of the city for the year 
1841-2 will exhibit the actual revenue at this date, as well as the 
various sources from whence the sums alluded to in the above two 
classes are obtained : — 
Revenues of the city from 1st August 1841 to 1st August 1842, 

under Schedule A, over the whole of which the security to the 

statutory creditors of the city extends. 

To cash received of compositions from vassals^ . L.502 2 3* 
To ditto of feu-duties to Whitsunday 1842, and pre- 
ceding years, . • . 7>690 9 7* 
of tack-duties, . 1,374 19 
of seat- rents in thirteen city churches, 5,346 10 3 
of astricted mulctures paid by brewers, 283 4 8^ 
of dues on goods conveyed by the Union Cans], 603 18 1 * 
of dividends on stock in public companies, 20 
of payments from Leith harbour and docks, 3,180 
ofannuity from the customs and market dues, 1000 
of annuity from Miss Thomson^ bonds, 44 Oil 



To 


ditto 


To 


ditto 


To 


ditto 


To 


ditto 


To 


ditto 


To 


ditto 


To 


ditto 


To 


ditto 



Sam, L.19,884 6 9^ 

(Schedule B.) — The security to the statutory creditors of the 
city over this schedule is limited to L.1000 per annum. 



712 EDJNBURGHSHIBE. 

To cash received of the cominon good, including the oommuUtion end 

tack-duties, .... L.3,d75 6 tf 
To cash received of feet on the entry of burgesses and guiid 

brethren, . . . • . 221 10 

To ditto of teat-rents in Greenside church, . 365 19 3 
To interest accruing on account current with the Bank of 

Scotland, . . . . . 15 15 9 
To annuity on 1^.7000, cont»ned in city bonds, acquired for 

behoof of the eity, less li.3, Is. 3d. of income Ux, • 206 18 9 



Sum, L.4205 10 3 

Local Taxes. — The direct local taxes levied on the proprietors 
and inhabitants of houses within the ancient and extended royal- 
ties are — 

Cesa, . W P^** <'^'i<« 

Road -money, about . 2 do. 

Police Assessment, (variable), . 6} da 

Improvement Assessment, 3 do. 

PoorVratet, .6 do. 

Annuity Tax, ... 6 do. 

Commuted Impost, . . 1 do. 

Amounting in whole to 25^ per oent. 

These taxes are levied on four-fifths of the actual rent Cer* 
tain localities without the bounds of the extended royalty are ex- 
empted from the annuity tax and city poor-rates. 

Court of Session. — During the prevalence of the feudal system, an 
ample territorial jurisdiction was vested in the barons, and in towns 
in the magistrates. From these an ultimate appeal was competent 
to the King and his council. Afterwards, a distinct court was 
established in 1532 by James V. and called the College of Jus* 
tice. It includes not only the judges, but also the advocates, writers 
to the signet, and clerks of session* The members are endowed 
with many privileges, and were exempt from several of the city 
taxes. The powers and jurisdiction of the Court of Session are 
so extensive as not to be exceeded by those of any tribunal in a 
free country. They are judges both of law and fact. When first 
established, the Court of Session consisted of fifteen members, 
seven of whom were clergymen, and seven laymen, with an eccle- 
siastic as president. The King had also the privil^e of adding to 
this number certain members of his council, called Extraordi- 
nary Lords. These had no salary, nor were they obliged to attend 
regularly ; but their influence, when they did attend, too often 
tended to sway the impartial administration of justice. This ar- 
rangement, so highly objectionable, was not abolished till the reign 
of George II. In 1584, the clergy were excluded from being 
members of this court ; and the Lords of Session are now appointed 
by the Crown, from among advocates of at least five years' stand- 



BDINBUUGH. 713 

ing, or writers to the signet of ten years ; but instances of ap- 
pointments from tbe latter have always been rare, and now never 
occur. The number of Judges is now reduced to thirteen. Pre- 
vious to the year 1808, the whole Judges sat in one court, with 
the exception of one Lord Ordinary, who sat in the outer-hall, to 
hear and forward cases through certain initiatory steps, till they 
at last were ripe for decision in the Inner- House. The act of 
1608 constituted the former court into two divisions. In the first 
division of seven, the Lord President presided, and in the second 
division of six, the Lord Justice- Clerk was president. A Judge 
from each division sat in the Outer- House as Lord Ordinary. Each 
of these divisions had the same powers and privileges which were 
possessed by the single court of fifteen. Four judges constituted 
a quorum ; and in the event of an equality of votes, the senior 
Lord Ordinary is called on to give a casting vote. 

By various subsequent acts, founded on the report of a Parlia- 
mentary commission in 1823, further changes and regulations were 
made. By these die seven junior ordinary Judges were appointed 
to act as Lords Ordinary for hearing causes in the Outer- House; 
and of consequence the number of Judges in the two inner divi- 
sions was reduced. The new enactments also limited the power 
which the judges formerly possessed of reviewing their interlocu- 
tory judgments, and enacted regulations by which the parties, 
before getting a decision, fix the grounds upon which they rest 
their cause in statements, under the title of Condescendence and 
Answers^ which the parties are entitled to revise and amend. Whea 
all the pleas are put in, and documents produced, the record is 
authenticated bv the mutual subscription of the counsel ; and the 
Lord Ordinary, after hearing counsel on the merits, gives his de- 
cision. The party aggrieved by this has an appeal to the Inner- 
House by a notCj printing along with it the record, the cases 
prepared by the advocates, and founding upon the preliminary 
papers and pleas given in to the Ordinary. And the decision of the 
Inner- House, in place of being, as formerly, subject to repeated 
review, upon allegations afterwards made, is now Gnal, unless the 
parties avail themselves of an appeal to the House of Ix>rds. 
When the parties differ as to facts which require to be ascer- 
tained by jury trial, the Lord Ordinary has it in his power either 
to remit the whole cause to the Jury Courts or a particulair issue 
or issues, to have such matter of fact ascertained. WboQ the 
Judges of either division are equally divided in opinion, the cause 
may be judged bv the Inner- House Judges of both divisions^ or by 



I 



714 EDINBURGHSHIRE* 

the whole court; and the Judges of either division are also 
empowered to require the opinions of the other division upon 
questions stated in writing, or otod of the Permanent Ordinaries. 
The causes are conducted in the courts by written statements and 
viva voce pleadings of the advocates, in the first instance, before 
the Lord Ordinary, and afterwards before one of the inner divi- 
sions. The decision of the Inner- House is final; but the los> 
ing party may, if he choose, appeal to the House of Lords. 
The Court of Session tries all questions affecting civil rights, and 
decides not only on the law of the cases, but also in matters of 
equity. They also constitute the Teind Cottri^ which is held for 
the settlement of all civil matters relating to the church. 

The court has two terms in the year, — the winter session com« 
mencing. on the It^th Norember, (the Lords Ordinary meeting 
on the 1st,) and terminating on the Hth March, (the Lords 
Ordinary sitting till 20th March) ; the other, or summer session, 
beginning on the 20th of May, and ending on the 19th July. 
During the vacation, one of the Judges, called the Ordinary on the 
Bills^ attends for the furtherance of routine and summary business. 

Total number of causes brought into the Court of 
Session in septennial periods. 

In the leTen years ending with 1787 there were 15,292 cAUfles. 

1794 ... 18,861 

1801 17,579 

mm ... 17,093 

1815 ... 17,188 

1822 ... 16,680 

)829 ... 14,180 

1836 ... 13,166 

1843 ... 10,816 

It thus appears that the maximum number of cases occurred in 
the septennial period ending with 1704, when the average for each 
year was 2603. From that period the number has gradually de- 
creased ; and at present the average number for each year is only 
1544. Of this whole number of annual cases, about 311 have 
come to decision in the Inner* House, on an average of the last 
seven years. 

The salaries of the Judges about a century ago were, to the 
Lord President L.1600 a-year; the Lord Justice- Clerk L.1250; 
the ordinary Judges Lb250 ; and L.200 additional to each of the 
Lords of Justiciary. By a recent act of 20th July 1830, the sa- 
laries of the Judges were constituted as follows : — Lord Justice- 
General, L.4800; Lord Justice- Clerk, L.4500; each of the 
other eleven Lords, L. 3000 a year. 

Jury Court. — In 1816 tnis court was constituted by Act of Par- 



EDINBUUGH. 715 

liatnent, and came into operation in 1816. It consisted of a I^rd 
Chief- Commissioner, assisted by fourof tBe Judges of the Court of 
Session, and was for the trial of all issues of fact by a jury. After 
existing for some years, and undergoing several modifications, it 
has now nterged into the Court of Session, and the office of Lord 
Chief- Commissioner has been abolished. Any of the Judges of the 
Court of Session may now direct issues of fact to be tried before * 
a jury, and such issues are now generally tried before the heads 
of the divisions, the Lord President and the Lord Justice- Clerk 
during the ti«ne of vacation, between terms; and this both in 
Edinburgh and in the other towns in Scotland where justiciary 
courts are held. 

Court of Justiciary. — This supreme criminal court is compos- 
ed of the Lord Justice- General, the Lord Justice- Clerk, and 
five Lords Commissioners* Formerly the title of Lord Justice- 
General was merely nominal, and was bestowed on some noble- 
man who never exercised the functions ; now it is vested in the 
Lord President. All criminal causes come before this court at the 
instance of the Lord Advocate, who is the public prosecutor. A 
jury of fifteen decide on the facts of the case by a majority, una- 
nimity not being required as in England. The High Court of 
Justiciary, composed of not less than three Judges, is held in Edin- 
burgh. The Circuit Courts, where one Judge is sufficient, are held 
twice a year during the vacations of the Court of Session. There 
is no appeal from this court, except to the clemency of the sove- 
reign. Previous to 1839 there were five Lords of Justiciary spe- 
cially appointed, along with the Lord Justice- General and the Lord 
Justice- Clerk, with separate salaries; but by the act of that year 
the duties of the Court of Justiciary, Jury Court, Exchequer, and 
Admiralty, are all performed by the Court of Session. 

Exchequer Court. — This court is for the trial of all revenue 
causes and matters in which the crown is concerned. It con- 
sisted originally of four Barons of Exchequer, before whom and 
* a jury the trials took place. By late arrangements the Judges 
of this court are to be abolished on the demise of the incumbents ; 
and the business of the Exchequer is to merge into the Court of 
Session. 

Faculty of Advocates, — This Society consists of advocates or 
barristers, who have the privilege of pleading causes before the 
Court of Session. They have a dean or president, a treasurer, clerk, 
and council. Before admission into the Society, an examination 
takes place, and the candidate must have gone through a regular 



716 KDINBURQHSHIRB. 

UDiverstty education, including two years' attendance on Scots law. 
The fees of admission are about L.200 ; part of which is appropriat- 
ed to the supportof the Advocates' Library, which is contained in two 
large buildings adjoining the courts, and which is one of the most 
extensive and valuable in Britain. The number of advocates on 
the roll is between 400 and 500, but only a small proportion of 
those are actually engaged in the practice of the profession. From 
this body the Judges and the Sheriffs of the counties are chosen. 
Writers to the Signet — The members of this Society practise as 
agents or attorneys before the Courts of Session. They are call- 
ed Clerks or Writers to Her Majesty's Signet, because they have an 
exclusive privilege of subscribing the writs that pass the royal 
signet in Scotland. They also practise as conveyancers, and act 
as agents in all legal matters connected with general business. 
There is a Keeper of the Signet, but the business is performed by 
a deputy and clerks. The candidates for admission into this So- 
ciety must have passed an apprenticeship of five years with a 
member of it ; and must have attended during two years the lec- 
tures on Scotslaw and conveyancing in the university. They also 
undergo a strict examination on the principles and forms of legal 
procedure. The apprentice fee, payments to the funds of the so* 
ciety, stamp, &c. amount to L.5d5. The number of members 
on the roll is about 700. 

Solicitors before the Supreme Courts. — This is another Society of 
writers who also practise before the courts, but with inferior privi- 
leges to those of the Writers to the Signet. The first clerks of 
advocates are also ex officio entitled to act as agents before the 

courts. 

The Parliament House. — This is a noble hall, 122 feet long 
and 49 broad, with an ornamental roof of oak. It was built in 
1632, and was the hall in which the Scottish Parliament sat 
Since that period the outer walls have been entirely renewed, and 
two additional buildings erected on the south side for the first and 
second Divisions of the law courts, and a third for the accpmmoda- 
tion of two of the Ix>rds Ordinary. Within the courts are statues 
of Lord President Forbes, President Blair, and the late Lord Mel- 
ville. In the Parliament Square is an equestrian statue of Charles 
II. Connected with the west end of the Parliament Square are 
the hall and library of the Writers to the Signet. The old rooms 
of the Advocates' Library are below the Parliament House, and 
part of a new and elegant library has been built immediately ad« 
joining. 



EDINBURGH. 717 

• 

The' Sheriff Court is held in the County Hall Buildings, Lawn- 
market, as also the Justice of Peace and Small Debt Courts. 

The County Hallj in which the meetings of the county gentle- 
men and lord lieutenancy are held, was erected in 1816, and 
cost L. 1 5,000. It is a large building, with a portico after a Grecian 
model, and the interior contains apartments for the Sheriff Court, 
clerks' offices, &c. 

Register House. — This large and elegant building stands at the 
east end of Princes Street, and opposite the termination of the 
North Bridge. It was founded in 1774, and built by a govern- 
ment grant of L. 12,000 obtained by the Earl of Morton out of 
the sales of forfeited estates. Only part of the original plan of the 
building was at first erected, and the other half was added in 1822. 
In the centre is a large circular hall surrounded by a dome cover- 
ed with copper, and the rest of the building is divided into nume- 
rous apartments for the different offices connected with the esta- 
blishment. Here all the public records of Scotland are deposited, 
as well as those connected with the private property of the country. 

The Lord Register has the chief direction of the office, and the 
clerks of the Court of Session are his deputies. 

Excise Office. — The general establishment now is considerably 
curtailed, and is managed by a receiver-general and solicitor. 

The General Board of Customs is also reduced, and the office 
formerly held here has been transferred to Leith. 

Police Establishment, — It has been already stated that, after the 
dismay and alarm caused by the defeat of James the Fourth's 
army at the battle of Flodden, the citizens of Edinburgh took 
measures for the defence of tfie town. A muster of the inhabi- 
tants took place ; and every fourth man was obliged in turn to 
take his duty as one of the night watch. Hence arose the practice 
of what was called watching and warding. In 1648 the town* 
council appointed a guard of 60 men, who were to form a per* 
manent company, and to receive a state pay. They were com- 
manded by a captain and two lieutenants. As the pay of this 
guard was raised by public contribution, the citizens began to 
grumble a1^ the expense; and on more than one occasion the 
old system of watching and warding was resorted to. But the 
habits of the citizens were daily becoming less and less military ; 
and turned more to trade and business ; so that at the Revolu- 
tion of 1688, although, on the complaint of the town-council, the 

SOIIVBUBGH. Z Z 



718 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

• 

regular guard was abolished, and the old sjstem for a short time 
resumed, it became so distasteful to the citizens that they agaiD 
« petitioned Parliament for a new arrangement. Leave was accor- 
dingly granted to raise a company of 1 26 men, who were called 
the Town Guards and the town^council were empowered to tax> 
the city for their permanent support. This body long continued 
to be the guardians of the city ; and their guard-room formed the 
lower portion of the Old Tolbooth. They were dressed in the 
old military costume, with long blue coats and cocked hats, and 
at night perambulated the streets with a huge Lochaber axe in 
their hand* 

» Besides these, there was a regiment of city militia,—** Trained 
Bands," consisting of 16 companies of lOO men each, — regularly 
officered, with the Lord Provost at their head as colonel. These 
were only summoned to occasional duty ; such as on the anniver* 
sary of the King's birth day, and other state occasions. 

The 6rst police bill for the city was obtained in 1805. It was 
renewed in 1812 and 1822 ; and has since undergone several emen- 
dations. By it the city is divided into thirty wards ; to each of which 
one general and two resident commissioners are appointed by the 
public suflrages of the householders. These commissioners regu* 
late the affairs of the establishment; — ^and the sheriff of the coun-, 
ty and magistrates of the city are the judges in the police court. 
The active duties are under the management of a superintendent, 
and four lieutenants. The police establishment includes watch- 
ing, lighting, cleaning, and paving the streets. The assessment is. 
laid on the rents of houses and shops, and varies according to the 
annual outlay. The average rate of assessment is about Is. 3d. 
per pound. The average annual revenue about L. 30,000. 

Society of High Constables. — This body is formed from the mer- 
chants and respectable tradesmen of the city, and is headed by a 
nooderator or president. Its affairs are managed by a secretary, 
and treasurer. The Society acts under the direction of the ma- 
gistrates ; and is called out on occasion of any extraordinary dis* 
turbance, as in the case of riots, Bros, &c. Besides these, there 
are a certain number of extraordinary constables, who may also be 
called out to serve on any exigency. 

Boyal Company of Archers. — This is a very ancient body; hav- 
ing been instituted by James I. on his return from his long capti- 
vity in England. The object of this monarch was to encourage 
archery among his subjects, perceiving that in this art they were 



EDINBURGH. 719 

inferior to the English. The practice of archery having after- 
wards fallen into disuse, in the year 1676 was again revived; 
the company was embodied, and the Marquis of Atholl was elect- 
ed captain general. In 1 703, Queen Anne erected the company 
into a royal corporation ; and tlie magistrates of the city gave 
them, as an annual prize, a silver arrow to be shot for. Qn the 
visit of George IV. to Edinburgh, the company mustered in full 
force, and acted on all state occasions as the Royal Body Guard. 
They did the same on the visit of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, iu 
184^ 

JPrisons.'^^The old prison or Tolbcfoth stood immediately west 
of St Giles' church. It was founded about 1560; but being 
incx)mmodious was pulled down in 1817. Two years previous 
to this, a new jail was commenced on the Calton Hill ; and 
was ready for the reception of prisoners in September 1817. 
It is a very ornamental castellated structure in the Saxon style ; 
and is 194 feet long by 40 feet in widtk The interior is divided 
into six classes of cells ; four for males, and two for females ; with 
an airing ground attached to each. There are two stories of 
cells, one above the other. To each of these divisions of cells 
on the ground floor there is a day room with a fire-place ; and 
an airing ground common to all the cells of the division. Each 
cell is for the reception of one prisoner; and is 8 feet by 6» 
A wooden bed is fixed into the wall, and there is a grated window 
and air holes in the wall for full and free ventilation. There are 
in all fifty-eight cells. In the centre of the building is the chapel ; 
the lower part of which is divided into boxes for the felons, while 
the gallery above is reserved for the debtor prisoners. The in- 
firmary rooms for the sick are at the top of the building. The 
keepers^ rooms overlook the airing ground ; and at the back is the 
governor's house, which commands a view of the whole prison* 
The whole is surrounded by a wall 20 feet in height, with a strong 
massive gate in front Over this gate there is a platform which 
was originally intended as the place for executing criminals ; but 
in consequence of the strong objections made by the inhabitants 
of the district, it has never been used as such. The executions 
take place on a temporary platform erected at the head of Libber- 
ton Wynd. In 1839 the number of criminal prisoners in the 
Caltun Jail, on the 1st October, was 216 : of these 137 were 
males and 79 females. 



720 EDINBUttGHSHIRE. 

In 1840, on the representation of the Prison- Board institut- 
ed by Parliament for the regulations of the prisons of Scotland, 
the Bridewell was incorporated with the Calton Jail; and se- 
veral suggested improvements carried into effect. Work was 
supplied to the prisoners, and as great a degree of classification 
and separation of prisoners was made as the nature of the building 
would permit The number of prisoners on the 1st October 184?0 
amounted to 481 criminal and 8 civil. The average number of 
prisoners for the year 1841 was 463 criminal and 11 civil. The 
average for 1842 was 530 criminal. The debtors and civil pri- 
soners were removed'at this time to the Canongate Jail, in order 
to afford more room for the criminal prisoners. 
Abstract of the Receipts and Expenses of the Prison for the year 

ending 30th June 1842. 

Salaries and wages 

Ordinary repairs 

Furniture ..... 

Prison diet . . . • 

(Daily average cost per prisoner about 2}d.) 
Contingent alimentary charges 
Clothing and bedding . . 

Cooking, washing, lighting, and fuel 
General contingent charges 

Net amount of profit of prisoners* labour 

(Average earnings per prisoner about L.1, 14s.) 

Balance of expenses, L.5591 15 6 

Average number of prisoners, 518. Average cost per prisoner, L.1]. 

Canongate Tolbooth^ — This is an old building of the time of 
James VI.9 or perhaps earlier. It contains a court-room for (he 
courts of the baron bailies, and a debtor^s prison for civil prisoners* 

Bridewell.'^A House of Correction was established about the 
year 1632 by the magistrates, for the reception of the vagrant poor 
and vicious characters strolling about the streets of the city. As the 
population increased, a larger establishment of the kind was found 
necessary ; and, accordingly, in 179 1 , agrantof L.d000 having been 
obtained from government, and an act to assess the inhabitants 
for the remainder of the requisite sum, from L.5000 to* L.600O 
more, the present Bridewell was founded. In 6ve years afterwards 
it was opened for the reception of culprits. The buildings 
which stands on the south side of the Calton Hill, is of a semi- 
circular form. It consists of five stories, the lowest of which is oc-* 
cupied with the kitchen and baths, the three above are divided into 
cells, and the upper story contains the hospital and store rooms. 



L.1796 9 

405 14 

303 2 

2137 16 




7 
3 



188 16 
706 13 
658 9 
272 15 


7 
S 
3 
9 


L.6464 16 
L^7S 1 


8 
8 



EDINBURGH. 721 

In front of the semicircular part of the building are the working 
cells, fifty-two in number. They are secured by open iron rail- 
ings in front, so that the inmates are overlooked by the keepers in 
the centre lodges. Behind are the bedrooms separated from the 
day cells by a long passage. Of these, which contain one prisoner 
each, there are 129. Various kinds of work suited to the different 
prisoners are carried on in the cells. In the area below are a 
school and chapel. An additional wing was added some years 
ago containing twenty cells. This building, as above stated, is 
now incorporated with the general prison. Considerable additions 
to the general prison, including a debtors' jail, are at present in 
progress. 

VII. — Charitable Institutions, &c. 

Trinity Hospital. — This Charity was founded in 1461 by Mary 
of Gueldres, consort of James II., for the maintenance and cloth- 
ing of thirteen poor persons. After the Reformation the reve- 
nues were bestowed by the Regent Murray on Sir Simon Preston, 
then provost of Edinburgh, who gave them to the citizens, to be 
appropriated as before; and this bequest was subsequently ratified 
by James VI. This hospital was situated at the north corner of 
Leith Wynd. It was one of the oldest buildings in Edinburgh. The 
interior ^as preserved in its original state, while all the conveni- 
ences of modern life were added. The building, however, being 
in the line of the North British Railway, was purchased by that 
company and pulled down in 1845, the inmates, for the present, 
being boarded out, and otherwise accommodated till Moray House, 
Canongate, be prepared to receive them. The revenues of the hos- 
pital, amounting to about L.2000 a-year, are derived from lands in 
the parishes of St Cuthberts and South Leith, and from money in 
bonds. The inmates are decayed burgesses of Edinburgh, their wi- 
dows, sons, and daughters. The right of presentation is vested in 
several public bodies, and in certain families in Scotland. The 
average number of inmates is about 50, besides 100 out-pension- 
ers, who receive about L.0 per annum. The objects of the cha- 
rity must not be under fifty years of age, and unmarried. 

Heriof$ £fo^i^aiL — This hospital was founded by George 
Heriot, goldsmith in Edinburgh, and afterwards goldsmith to 
James VI. on his accession to the English crown. This indus- 
trious tradesman, from small beginnings, amassed what in those 
days was reckoned an immense fortune. The exact amount is 



722 EDINDUnOHSHIRE. 

uncertain ; but he is supposed to ha?e left at his death, which oc- 
curred in 1624, not less than L.50,000 Sterling. After bequeath- 
ing a large portion of this to his relatives, friends, and servants, 
both in England and Scotland, he left the residue in trust to 
the magistrates and ministers of Edinburgh, to endow an hospital 
'^ for the maintenance, relief, and bringing up of so many poor and 
fatherless boys, freemen's sons of the town of Edinburgh, as the 
sum should be sufficient for/^ The sum received by the governors 
from Heriot's executors amounted to L.23^625. In 1628 the 
present magnificent Gothic building was commenced ;. the plan, 
it is said, was furnished by Inigo Jones ; and the whole was super- 
intended by Dr Balcanqual, Dean of Rochester, who was ap- 
pointed by Heriot to ^see his will put in execution. The pro- 
gress of the building was interrupted for several years during 
the civil wars; but it was resumed in 1642, and nearly finished 
in 1650. The total expense is stated to have amounted to 
L.30,000, — a sum exceeding the whole original bequest. This 
can only be accounted for by supposing that, for the intervening 
years, the money had been laid out at high interest, 8 and 10 
per cent, being the usual interest of the period, — and thus a 
sum had been amassed, not only sufficient to complete the build- 
ing, but also to support the establishment afterwards. It was not, 
however, till 1659 that the institution was really opened for the 
reception of boys. During the nine previous years, it had been 
used as an hospital for the sick soldiers of Oliver Cromwell, and 
was only at last given up by General Monk, at the request of the 
governors. 

The building is in the form of a square, the sides of which 
measure 162 feet outside the walls. In the centre is an open 
paved court, and on two sides of this court are piazzas, with a 
walk within of six feet in breadth. The corners of the building 
are surmounted by turrets, and over the gateway is a spire, with 
clock. There are upwards of 200 windows, all variously and taste- 
fully ornamented with carved work. On the south side of the 
building is a handsome chapel ; and the halls in the interior are 
spacious, while the dormitories are comfortable and well aired. 
Some years ago, a thorough repair and several additions were made 
to the buildings, including a porter's lodge, in the style of the ori- 
ginal edifice. 

In 1776 the annual revenues of the hospital amounted to L.1966. 
Since that period, however, in consequence of the increased value 



EDINBURGH. 728 

of land, and of considerable portions of the lands belonging to the 
hospital having been feued out for buildings, the revenues have 
very greatly increased. At present they exceed L.1 5,000 a-year. 
The governors are the members of the town*council and the 
city clergymen — in all 51. The active duties are performed by 
a treasurer, house-governor, matron, and teachers. Pupils are 
eligible into the institution from the age of seven to ten, and re- 
main till they have completed their fourteenth year, or even longer, 
if designed for the university. 

The course of education consists of English, Latin, Greek, 
French, writing, arithmetic, mathematics, book-keeping, and geo* 
graphy. Tiiose boys who make choice of any of the learned 
professions, are sent to college for four yearsi with an allowance 
of L.30 a-year from the hospital. Ten biifsaries of L.20 a-year 
are also given to students sittending the university, who have not 
been educated in the hospital. Boys sent out as apprentices to 
any trade are allowed L.10 per year for 6ve years, and L.5 at the 
expiry of their apprenticeship. The annual allowance of clothes 
lor the boys in the hospital is two suits, four day and two night 
shirts, four pairs of shoes, four pairs of stockings, one leather cap, 
and two pocket handkerchiefs. Each boy, when leaving the 
hospital, is presented with two suits of clothes and a Bible. The 
full number of boys in the hospital is 180. 

George fVatsofCs HospUaL — The founder of this hospital was 
originally a clerk to Sir William Dick, provost of Edinburgh in 
1676. He was afterwards accountant in the Bank of Scotland, 
and held other offices connected with the affairs of the city. He 
died unmarried in 1723, and left L. 12,000 for the maintenance 
and education of the children or grandchildren of decayed mer- 
chants of Edinburgh. This money was allowed to accumulate 
to L.20,000; when in 1738 the present building, situated to the 
west of the Meadow Walk, was erected at an expense of L.5000. 
The building is plain, but commodious, and enjoys a free, airy si- 
tuation. Eighty boys are received into this institution ; where they 
are maintained, clothed, and taught English, Latin, Greek, and 
the other necessary branches of education. Each boy on leaving 
the hospital receives L.50 as an apprentice fee, paid by instal- 
ments of L.10 a-year; and on his attaining the age of 25 years, 
if unmarried and producing certificates of his good behaviour, 
he receives L.50 more. Such as make choice of a university edu- 
cation get L.20 a-year for five years. They are received into the 



724 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

hospital from seYon to ten years of age ; and remain till they are fif- 
teen years. The governors are the master, assistants, and treasurer 
of the Merchant Company, five members of the town-council, and 
the ministers of the Old and Greyfriars churches* The annual 
revenue is about L.dOOO ; the number of boys maintained in the 
institution is 78. 

Merchant Maiden HospitaL^-This hospital was founded in 
1695 by voluntary contributions. Mrs Mary Erskine gave 
L. 12,000 Scotch for the purchase of a building, besides several 
other sums. In 1707 the governors, who consist of five members 
of the town-council, the master and three assistants of the Mer- 
chant Company, three of the city clergy, the Earl of Mar, and 
nine persons elected by the merchant company, were erected into 
a body corporate by act of Parliament. The original building was 
in Bristo Street, but it having been found too small, a new hospi- 
tal was erected in 1816, with ample acconunodation, at an expense 
of L. 12,250 Sterling. This hospital is for the education and 
maintenance of the daughters or grand -daughters of merchant- 
burgesses of Edinburgh. The number received is from 90 to 100^ 
from seven to eleven years of age ; and they are kept till they are se- 
venteen. They are taught English, French, arithmetic, writing, geo- 
graphy, history, dancing, and needle-work. The fees for draw- 
ing, music, and the higher accomplishments are defrayed by the 
friends of those pupils who require them. On leaving the insti- 
tution, each girl receives L.99 6s. 8d. The annual revenue of the 
hospital is about L.4800 ; the number of pupils is 95. 

Trades^ Maiden Hospital. — This hospital was founded in 1704 
for the education of the daughters of decayed tradesmen. The 
£l[overnors were incorporated by royal charter in 1707. About fifty 
girls receive their education and maintenance here. The educa- 
tion and living are plain, but substantial ; and on leaving the hos- 
pital, each girl receives L.5, lis., and a Bible. 

Orphan Hospital — This institution owes its origin to Mr 
Andrew Gairdner, merchant in Edinburgh, who was treasurer of 
the Trinity Hospital. Having collected by subscriptions a small 
sum of L.21d, and having obtained the aid of the Society for Propa- 
gating Christian Knowledge, a house was hired in 1783, and twenty 
children admitted into it In the following year the contributions 
increased ; and a piece of ground was procured near Trinity Hos- 
pital ; on this a new and extensive building was erected, into which 
74 orphans were received. 

3 



EDINBURGH. 



725 



The contributors were erected into a corporation in 174% and, 
the funds accumulating, advantageous^purchases of land were 
made, which subsequently increasing much in value enhanced the 
funds of the institution. In 1812 considerable additions were 
made to the hospital. But the situation being originally low, and 
the contiguous buildings still farther obstructing free ventilation, 
a new site was fixed upon in the Dean grounds, north of the 
Water of Leith, and a very handsome and commodious building 
was erected there in 1832 at an expense of about L. 16,000. It 
accommodates about 200 orphan children. Orphan children from 
any part of Scotland are admitted, a benefaction of L.200 en- 
titling the donor to present a child for admission. A good plain 
education is given to both sexes, and the girls are exercised in the 
domestic duties of the house to train them for servants. The 
old hospital, which interfered with the railway terminus, has been 
pulled down. 

GiVespie*8 Hospital — This hospital was founded by James 
Gillespie of Spylaw, who, by deed dated 1796, bequeathed a 
considerable part of bis ample fortune to the endowment of an 
hospital for old men and women, and a free school for the instruc- 
tion of 100 poor boys in reading, writing, and arithmetic The 
present building was commenced in 1801, and the trustees were 
erected into a corporation by Royal charter. The management 
is vested in the master, treasurer, and twelve assistants of the mer- 
chant company, five members of the town*council, and the mini- 
sters of the Tolbooth and St Stephen's churches. The gross 
annual revenue amounts to about L.1500. The building, which 
is in the Grothic style, is commodious, and contains about 50 in- 
mates. The school-house is in a detached building, and educates 
150 boys. 

John Watsoris Hospital — In 1 759 Mr John Watson, a Writer 
in Edinburgh, left a reversion of his fortune, about L.5000, for 
the erection of a foundling hospital in Edinburgh. For many 
years the money lay at interest, under the guardianship of the 
keeper and deputy-keepers of his Majesty's signet, until it had 
accumulated to L.100,000. As the utility and moral effects of a 
foundling hospital were much questioned, an act of Parliament was 
at length obtained empowering the trustees to alter the original 
intention of the donor. They accordingly founded, in the year 
1825, a building on the lands of Dean, ** for the maintenance and 
education of destitute children, and bringing them to be useful 



726 



EDINBUROUSHIRB. 



members of society, and also for assisling in their o«itset in life 
such of them as may be thought to deserve and requin» such aid/^ 
The number of children received is about 120, to whom a pluin 
and useful education is afforded. 

DonaldsorCs Hospital^^Mv Donaldson, a wealthy printer id 
Edinburgh, died in 1830, and left a great proportion of bis pro- 
perty, upwards of L.200,000, for the erection and endowment of 
an hospital for the maintenance of 200 poor boys and girls. The 
site of this hospital is on the rising ground to the west of Coates 
House, — where a magni&cent structure is now in progress of erec- 
tion. 

Fettes Endowment. — In 1836, Sir William Fettes, banker in 
Edinburgh, left also a large sum of money for the maintenance, 
education, and outfit of young people whose parents have fallen 
into adverse circumstances. 

Chalmerses Hospital. — Mr Chalmers, plumber in Edinburghy 
left, in 1836, upwards of 1^80,000 for the erection and endowment 
of an hospital " for the sick and hurt." The management is 
vested in the Dean and Faculty of Advocates. It is to be re-^ 
gretted that more bequests of this nature are not made. 

Magdalene Asylum. — A society called the Edinburgh Philan* 
thropic was established in 1797, for the purpose of taking some 
charge of those unfortunate females who, after confinement in 
bridewell, were 3gain liable to be set loose upon society. In a few 
years it was found necessary to enlarge the sphere of this import- 
ant charity ; and under the new designation of the Society for tlie 
support of the Magdalene Asylum^ they opened an institution in the 
Canongate, under the patronage of the late George IV., then 
Prince of Wales, for the reception of those females *^ who, after 
deviating from the paths of virtue, express a sincere desire of 
reformation ;" and the endeavours of the managers are directed 
to the attainment of this most important object, by instructing them 
in the principles of religion, and training them to habits of useful 
industry. The asylum was opened in 1807, and is capable of con- 
taining about sixty inmates. Besides religious instruction and mo- 
ral superintendence, suitable work is furnished them ; and as an 
encouragement to industrious habits, one-fourth share of the pro- 
duce of their labour is paid to them in clothes and other necessa- 
ries, the remainder going to the funds of the institution. The 
other expenses are entirely defrayed by contributions, donations, 
$nd legacies. The asylum is under the management of the Lord 



EDINBURGH. 727 

Provost and Sheriff, as presidents ; a board of ordinary directors, 
secretary, treasurer, and trustees. The success which has crown- 
ed the efforts of the managers has on the whole been most grati- 
fying- 

The Asylum for the Blind, — This institution was first suggested 

by Dr Blacklock and Mr David Miller, both sufferers from this af- 
fliction; and in 1792, by the active exertions of Dr Johnston, mi- 
nister of North Leith, Sir William Forbes, and others, subscrip- 
tions were raised to the amount of L.700, and a Society forthwith 
formed. Next year a house was opened in Shakspeare Square, and 
nine blind persons were admitted. By degrees the patronage to this 
* useful institution increased; and in 1806 a larger house was pur- 
chased in Nicolson Street. In 1822, another house for the female 
blind was also purchased in the same street, ami both places fitted 
up with every accommodation for the inmates, and opportunity 
afforded for carrying on their labours. The two establishments 
now contain from 90 to 100 inmates. Besides education and mo- 
ral and religious culture, they are all taught to work ; the males 
are employed in making matresses and cushions of wool, hair, 
straw, &c, and baskets, mats, hair gloves, cord, twine, &c., as 
well as cloth-weaving. The females sew, knit, spin, &c. Besides 
those who live in the institutions, opportunities of work and in- 
struction are afforded to about as many more blind people out of 
the house. Entertaining reading and instruction in useful science 
are happily blended with their labours; and thus rescued from 
the gloom of ignorance and inactivity, they are rendered intelli- 
gent, active, and happy members of society. The institutions are 
supported by voluntary contributions, and by the produce of the 
sales of their own manufactures. Books with raised letters, and 
maps and globes on a similar plan, are now in general use among 
the inmates of this and similar institutions elsewhere. 

Deaf and Dumb Institution, — In 1764 a Mr Braidwood first 
began to instruct the deaf and dumb in Edinburgh. At first he 
had but a single pupil, but afterwards he collected a considerable 
number, and taught them with success. The present institution, 
situated to the north of the new town, was established in 1810. 
The funds for the building, about L.7000, were raised by public 
donations, and the establishment is supported by annual subscrip- 
tions and the sums paid for by the friends of those pupils who can 
afford it. The building, a plain but commodious one, with play- 
ground annexed, is capable of containing about 100 pupils, with 



728 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

the superintendent and necessary assistants. The average annual 
number of pupils is 65. The annual expense about L.1000. The 
average cost of each pupil is under L. 20, including education, 
maintenance, books, and other necessaries. As the funds of the 
institution are limited and precarious, the managers are obliged to 
prefer those pupils who can pay the whole or part of their expenses, 
although in many instances no payment is received. The system 
of tuition is on a simple practical plan, and, under the management 
of the present master, Mr Kinniburgh, most efficient. Five years 
are required for completing their education, — none being admitted 
under nine years, or above fourteen. If the pupils remain beyond 
the first five years, which are devoted to education, they are then 
taught businesses ; if of the lower classes, mechanic trades. The 
girls are taught sewing, knitting, and other domestic employments. 
The good order, intelligence, and amount of practical knowledge 
resulting from the management of this establishment are worthy 
of the highest admiration, and deserve the best encouragement of 
the public. In consequence of the limited nature of the funds of 
this institution, and its being inadequate to receive all the objects 
of such a charity, a day-school for the deaf and dumb has been 
for some years opened in St John Street, Canongate, which also 
depends upon the public for support At this school a number 
of pupils of both sexes receive instruction. 

Boyal Infirmary, — Prior to the year 1725, the members of the 
medical faculty had been in the practice of giving advice and me- 
dicines to the poor gratuitously; but about this^ period an hospital, 
which had for years before been talked of, was seriously set about. 
By public subscriptions, and some funds contributed on the dissolu- 
tion of a fishing company, about L.2000 were procured, and a 
house was opened for the reception of the sick poor in 1729. The 
number received into this small hospital during the first year was 
thirty-five,-— of whom twenty-four were dismissed cured, five dis- 
charged as irregular or inourable, one died, and five remained. 

In a few years the beneficial effects of the institution began to 
be appreciated. In 1736 the stock of the Infirmary amounted to 
L.dOOO, and this year a royal charter erected the subscribers into 
a body corporate. Meantime contributions and donations greatly 
increased, and for twenty- five years the Earl of Hopeton bestowed 
on it the yearly sum of L.400 Sterling. 

In 1738 the present building was commenced, and the work 
was carried on to a termination, chiefly through the indefatigable 



EDINBURGH. 729 

exertions of Provost Drummond, who spared do labour in accun)u« 
lating the necessary funds. In 1750, Dr Kerr bequeathed to it 
L.200 a^year from property in Jamaica; and in 1755, a donation 
of L.8000 was given by government for the expense attending the 
reception of sick soldiers. In this year also, a ward was fitted up 
for the reception of sick servants belonging to families in the town 
and neighbourhood, which proved a great convenience, and en- 
hanced the value of the institution in public estimation. 

The building is of capacious size, consisting of a central part 
210 feet long, with two wings at each end projecting forward 70 
feet There are three stories, with attics, and a dome in the 
centre. In the entrance*hall is a bust of Provost Drummond, by 
Nollekins ; a large staircase leads from this hall to the different 
wards. These wards are divided into those for males and those 
for females ; and the number of beds amounts to 400. 

In addition to the original building, a surgical hospital was 
lately formed of the Old High School buildings, and an entry 
made from the Infirmary. This hospital contains wards for sur- 
gical patients and an operating theatre. A fever hospital has 
also been formed from the building in Surgeons' Square, formerly 
the Hall of the College of Surgeons. A lock-hospital, which 
formerly occupied one of the wards of the Infirmary, is now also 
removed to apartments in Surgeons' Square. 

The direction of the Infirmary is under a board of twelve ordi- 
nary managers, including the president of the College of Physi- 
cians, with a treasurer, accountant, and clerk. 

At the first institution of the Infirmary, and for many years af- 
terwards, the members of the College of Surgeons attended in 
rotation, and performed the sui^cal duties of the hospital. This 
privilege, for which the surgeons had originally stipulated, was at 
length found inconvenient, and in many respects prejudicial to 
the institution ; and after protracted disputes and litigation, the 
question was at last decided in favour of the absolute patronage 
of the managers in this respect. The medical attendants are now 
appointed by the managers, and consist of four ordinary attending 
physicians, who take charge of the medical wards ; of four con- 
sulting surgeons, of three acting surgeons, and two assistant sur- 
geons, besides three physicians' clerks and three surgeons' clerks, 
who constantly reside in the house ; a pathologist, an apothecary, 
a chaplain, matron, cupper, and chief porter. The professors of 
surgery and clinical surgery in the university are^ ex officio^ per- 



730 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

manent medical officers of the infirmary* The other medical ap-* 
pointments are made for a definite period. A small salary is paid 
to the physician and pathologist ; the others give their attendance 
gratuitously. Clinical lectures on medical and surgical cases oc- 
curring in the hospital are regularly given. 

In 1743, the stock of the Rayal Infirmary, after paying for 
ground, building, furniture, &c amounted to L.5000. In 1755, 
it was L.7076, besides the Jamaica estate. In 1778, it had in- 
creased to L.379O74. In 1796, the increasing claims on the cha- 
nty suggested to the managers the plan of annual contributions 
of small sums by general subscriptions and collections at the 
church doors, which have since been continued. The income in 
184J^ arising from stock, subscriptions, donations, and students' 
fees, amounted to L.661 1. The net stock for the same vear was 
L.26,666. The annual expenditure, however, was found to ex- 
ceed considerably the income. 

From 1st January 1762 to 1st January 1769, there were ad- 
mitted into the hospital 6370, being an average of 910 annually. 
Of whom were dismissed cured, 4394 ; relieved, 540 ; incurable, 
lOS; for irregularities, 106; by desire, 732; died, 358; re- 
maining in hospital, 132. 

From 1770 to 1775, the average annual number of patients bad 
iucreasedto 1567. The average annual number of deaths being 63. 
In 1817-18, during the prevalence of typhus fever to an alarm- 
ing extent in the city, an hospital was opened for fever patients 
in Queensberry House Barracks. The number of patients re-. 
ceived into both hospitals during that year amounted to 3483, 
while the deaths were only 189. 

The total number of patients received into the Infirmary for 
the year ending October 1842 was 3795. Of these, 820 were 
fever patients. Daily average in the house, 308. - Of whom were 
dismissed cured, 2257 ; relieved, 557 ; dismissed with advice, 59 ; 
as irregular or improper, 71 ; at their own desire, 67; having 
found no benefit, 162; died, 441 ; remaining in the house, 241. . 

For the year ending October 1843, the total number of pa- 
tients was 4855, of which, from the unusual prevalence of a pe- 
culiar bilious fever, 2080 were fever patients. 

Minto House Hospital. — This hospital was established by the 
present professor of clinical surgery, Mr Syme, in 1829. Its ob* 
ject is to afibrd accommodation to a better class of invalids, who 

are received into the house, and are maintained, and receive 

4 



BDINBUROH. 731 

professional advice on payment of from 10s. to L. 1, Is. per 
week. Attached to this hospital there is a public Dispensary, 
where patients may have advice and medicinea gratis, besides 
being visited at their own houses if labouring under severe disease. 
There are three ordinary medical officers, besides a consulting 
surgeon. The extra expenses of the hospital are defrayed by 
public contributions. 

Dispensaries, — There are two public dispensaries ; one in West 
Richmond Street, the other in Thistle Street. These afford to 
(he poor medicines and advice, on application atcertain stated hours 
daily, when the medical officers attend. Children are also vac- 
cinated on two days of each week. Patients may also be viaited 
at their houses, if confined to bed ; and midwifery cases are at- 
tended to in the same manner. These establishments are entire 
ly supported by donations and annual contributions ; and many 
thousands of the poor are thus annually supplied with medical aid* 
Their affairs are conducted by a committee of contributors. A. 
donation of one guinea entitles the contributor to recommend pa- 
tients, and to be a governor for two years ; a donation of five 
guineas gives the same privilege for life. 

Number of patients relieved by Royal Public Dispensary from 
its institution in 1776 to 1839, 296,762 ; do. by New Town Dis- 
pensary from 1815 to 1840, 196,821 ; patients visited at their 
own bouses, 80,299« 

Besides these, there are some other minor local dispensaries, 
and two Eye and Ear Dispensaries, one in the old and the other 
in the new town. 

Lying-in- Hospital. — This hospital was established in 1793. 
At the same time that it forms a most useful charitable institution, 
for the poor, it is also an excellent practical school for the medi- 
cal pupils attending the University. The house was situated in 
Park Place — an airy open space adjoining the Meadows. The 
annual average number of patients received into the house was 
about 220, and of patients delivered at their own houses '550. The. 
management is by a committee elected annually by the contribu- 
tors. The funds are derived from donations and annual contri- 
butions. The professor of midwifery in the University is the ordi- 
nary physician. In the Report of 1833, it is stated that ^^ 4970 • 
patients have been delivered in the hospital, and 8554 out-patients 
have been attended at their own houses, at an expense not exceed-, 
ing L.9307, independent of the building and area, which are so ad- 



732 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

mirably fitted in point of quietness and ventilation for an hospital 
of that description. This useful institution was for some time given 
up for want of funds ; but has again been established under the 
denomination of the Maternity Hospital, now situated in St John 
Street. Besides this hospital there are three or four other Insti* 
tutions where medical assistance is afforded, and clothes and pecu* 
niary aid given to poor lying-in females. 

Lunatic Asylunu — When the Infirmary was first instituted, a 
ward was set apart there for lunatics ; but it was soon found that 
the contiguity of these with the other patients was most inconve* 
nient for both classes. The pauper lunatics of the city were ac- 
commodated in a very inconvenient hospital attached to the Charity 
Workhouse ; but a public hospital for the insane of the community 
was greatly wanted. In 1792 an effort was made by Dr Duncan, 
an active and benevolent physician, to raise subscriptions ; but a 
sufficient sum could not be procured, till, in 1807, through the 
exertions of Sir John Sinclair and the Hon. H. Erskine, a Gro* 
vernment grant of L.2000 was obtained. In 1810, the asylum at 
Morningside was accordingly commenced, and in 1818 opened for 
the reception of patients. The lowest annual charge was L.5O9 
so that, of course, the poorer classes of patients were excluded. 
In 1839, another effort was made to enlarge the accommoda- 
tion at this institution, and to build new premises which would be 
capable of receiving all the insane poor of the city. By the ac- 
tive exertions of several zealous individuals, aided by the liberality 
of the public, nearly the requisite funds were soon raised, the ad- 
ditional buildings were forthwith commenced, and in 1842 com* 
. pleted, and rendered fit for the reception of patients. In August 
of that year, it was opened under the patronage of the Queen, 
and with the title of the' Royal Ediidmrgh Asylunu The expense 
of new buildings, and additions and repairs of the old, amounted to 
L.27,734 Sterling. Contributors of L. 10 or upwards have the 
privilege of recommending one pauper lunatic, who will be main- 
tained at the rate of L.15 per year; and contributors of L.40 
have a perpetual right of such recommendation. The active ma- 
nagement is vested in twelve ordinary directors. The medical 
board consists of five physicians, including the presidents of the 
Colleges of Physicians and Surgeons pro tempore. There is also 
a resident physician, a chaplain, two matrons, a house steward, 
and clerk. 

In adjusting the plans of the new establishment, it was suggested 



EDINBURGH. ^^^ 

that if the system of congregatmg the poor at night in large ward- 
rooms oould be adopted with safety, it would both facilitate their 
superintendence and conduce to economy in expense. Accord- 
ingly, it was resolved, after mature deliberation, that the new 
building should be so constructed as to have dormitories admitting 
of from siaLteen to twenty inmates in each, with one or more atten* 
dants ; and after full trial, this arrangement has been accompanied 
with complete success. Not only have no accidents occurred 
among the kmiates so situate, but the beneficial effect on them 
has been most decided. The presence of the attendants in the 
same rooms with the inmates keeps up that moral restraint dur- 
ing the night which is exercised with benefit during the day. A 
more friendly and confidential relation is established between 
them. There is less noise, and less risk of suicide in the case of 
desponding patients, whose gloomy thoughts are apt to overpower 
them in the stillness and solitariness of a cell ; while ventilation, 
heating, and cleanliness, which are of so much importance, are 
thereby better secured* 

This institution has now been greatly enlarged, and the lu- 
natics from the city Bedlam transferred to it, in consequence of 
an arrangement entered into by the town-council, who have now, 
by act of Parliament, taken the management of the Poor's House 
into their own hands. 

Males. Females. Total 
Number ofinmausfl* the dose of 1843, 146 133 2B4 



Admitted during 1844, 


83 


79 


162 


Discbargedy 


59 


64 


123 


Of whom recovered, 


38 


52 


90 


Improved, 


21 


12 


38 


Died, , r 


11 


9 


20 



Inmates at the close of 1844, 150 144 303 

Public Health. — The elevated situation of the city, and the in- 
clined planes on which a considerable proportion of its streets are 
built, are favourable to ventilation, and facilitate the effects 
of running water in clearing away impurities through the drains 
and public sewers, which are every where very complete. The 
regular and rectilineal form of the streets in the new town, the 
numerous open squares and public gardens interspersed, the ab* 
sence of smoke from manufactory chimneys, all render the air 
singularly pure and healthful, considering the size of the city. In 
the old town, the leading streets, which are suflBciently spacious, 
contain numerous narrow lanes or closes, where the high houses 

EDINBURGH. 3 A 



734 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

on each side tend to confine the air and impede thorough clean- 
liness; yet even here ventilation is good, from the elevated situa- 
tion of the ridge on which the principal part of the old town is 
built. The contiguity of the sea renders the tenaperature mild, — 
snow rarely lies long in the vicinity, and the winters are on an 
average mild, though variable* The most trying season for inva- 
lids is spring ; when a chill, dry east wind prevails for nearly two 
months. Summer and autumn are usually fine, with a less pro- 
portion of rain than on the western coasts of Scotland* 

The modern police regulations of the gity are so complete as 
respects cleanliness, that the ancient reproach of the filthi- 
ness of the Scottish capital is now entirely removed. As re- 
spects the domestic cleanliness and comforts of the lower classes 
in the old town, however, much is still wanting— a more ample 
supply of water and public conveniences. In this locality, too, the 
houses are by far too crowded and too high, by which system many 
of the comforts of dwellings for the poor are precluded. Some 
idea of the crowded state of the poorer classes may be formed 
from the fact, that many of the large tenements of the old town 
contain from 100 to 150 inmates, a whole family being crowded 
into an apartment not more than twelve or fourteen feet square. 

Immediately surrounding the city, there is also a nuisance in 
the irrigated meadows, inconsistent with the purity of the at- 
mosphere. These meadows, which extend eastward from 
Holyroodhouse, in a low lying plain, by Restalrig onwards to tbe 
sea side, are irrigated by the water collected from the common 
sewers, and kept in a constantly stagnant state, for the purpose of 
increasing their fertility. By this means very abundant crops of 
grass are produced constantly throughout the year ; but at tbe 
same time a damp, vapoury, pestilent morass is thus constantly 
•kept up, the odour from which is peculiarly offensive during the 
summer months. Although on investigation no direct cases of dis- 
ease have been traced to this marsh effluvia among the inmates of ibe 
few scattered dwellings which are in its more immediate neigh- 
bourhood, yet probably we owe this immunity to the elevated si- 
tuation of the ground of the city, by which the emanations from 
the irrigated meadows are immediately diluted with a large 
current of pure air, more than to the perfectly innocuous nature of 
the exhalations themselves. At all events, as an offensive nuisance, 
they are a drawback to the purity of the city atmosphere. Si- 
milar irrigated grounds extend to the westward of the city; and the 



EDINBURGH. 735 

sewers which join the Water of Leitb are by no means in that 
perfect state which the comfort of the community requires. 

In former times, the plague, which paid frequent visits to 
many of the cities of Britain, was not uncommon in Edin- 
burgh. We have accounts of its raging with great violence in 
the years 1513 and 1514. At this period, public regulations were 
instituted by the magistrates for the public safety, and all vagrants 
were forbidden to walk the streets after nine o'clock at night. It 
prevailed also with more or less violence in the years 1568, 1585, 
1604, and 1645. After this latter date, it does not appear to have 
occurred. 

Another disease, at one time common in Britain, but now to- 
tally unknown, was the leprosy, or rather that species of it called 
^ephantiasii. This ailment was by no means unfrequent in Edin- 
bui^h, as well as other districts of Scotland, so late as the year 
1591. In that year the monastery of the Carmelite Friars, situ- 
ated in Greenside, near the base of the Calton Hill, was convert- 
ed into a leper house, for the reception of persons affected with 
this disease. 

About a century ago intermittent fevers or agues were not un- 
common in Edinburgh, caused, it was said, by the exhalations of 
the marshy grounds to the north-west of the Castle. In the pre- 
sent day, agues arising from local causes are totally unknown ; 
typhus and other fevers especially a£9icting the poor, have in re- 
cent times superseded the ancient plagues. In the years 1814-15, 
typhus fever appeared as an epidemic in Edinburgh, and raged 
with great violence. Since that period it has prevailed with more 
or less virulence every winter, and indeed it may be said now 
never to be entirely extirpated from among the poorer dwellings. 

A fever of a new type, but of a milder character, raged in 
Edinburgh in the years 1843-4. Its seizures were even more 
numerous than those of the ordinary typhus, but fortunately it was 
not so tedious nor by any means so fatal. It commenced in au- 
tumn, and was accompanied by a bilious affection^ which was cha- 
racteristic of the disease. 

In 1832, during the awful visitation of cholera in Britain, Edin- 
burgh was not exempted, although it did tiot suffer so much in 
proportion to its size as many other smaller towns and districts. 
While the disease was yet only in its progress towards the city, 
measures were promptly taken to meet and if possible obviate it 
A board of public health was constituted, the town was portioned 



736 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

out into districts^ a thorough cleaning out and purifying of the 
worst parts of the old town was effected, and hospitals were esta- 
blished for the reception of the affected. The first cases com- 
menced in a close in the High Street, and these could be traced 
to a direct comnaunication with relatives who had died of the dis* 
ease in Musselburgh. 

From the great destitution of the numerous poor in Edinbui^b, 
and from ihe intemperate and irregular habits of many of those 
who are employed in labour of various kinds^ — from the crowded 
state of their houses already mentioned, and from want of babite 
of cleanliness, fevers and other diseases are at all times very pre- 
valent. The general health of the middle and higher classes, on 
the other hand, may be reckoned as fully equal to that of tbe 
average of towns in Britain, and perhaps above that of towns of 
equal or superior size, especially the large and crowded manufac- 
turing towns. 

House of Refuge, — In the year 1632, during the prevalence of 
cholera in the city, when unusual exertions on the part of the 
community were called forth for the relief of the destitute, a tem- 
porary institution was established for the reception of poor, hungry, 
and houseless wanderers. The cheap and efficacious manner in 
which a number of wretched poor, of various ages, could be fed 
and enabled to work or receive education and religious instruction 
for a time till some permanent means of employment could be 
provided for them, soon attracted the attention of the charitable 
public, and this temporary institution was at last put upon a per- 
manent footing. A large house was obtained in one of the closes 
of the High Street and converted into a house of refuge for 
the destitute. Subsequently this institution was established in 
Queensberry House, where the accommodation is more ample* 
The Lord Provost is president, and a number of noblemen and 
gentlemen of the county and city are directors. The active duties 
are performed by a committee of management, a secretary, house- 
governor and treasurer, matron, chaplain, and surgeon. The 
funds are entirely derived from public subscriptions and donations, 
from the profits arising from work done by the inmates, and from 
small boards paid by a proportion of the inmates. In the year 
J 839-40 the total receipts from all these sources were L.2620. 
The total of individuals received into the house during same year 
1570. In 1840-1, total receipts, L.2918. Total of individuals 
received into the house, 1151. There is also a night-asylum at- 



EDINBURGH. 737 

tached, ^here temporary shelter and food are given for one night. 
The following table shows the amount voluntarily contributed by 
the Public, with the number of individuals thereby relieved. 

Periods. Number of indivU Annual amount of the 

For the year end> duals provided for voluntary contributions 
ing SOth Sept. annually. by the Public. 

" " " L.603 15 8 

859 16 91 
868 2 14 
641 5 9 
657 4 4 
777 2 Of 
. 892 4 11 



1885 




717 


1896 




1255 


1837 




1586 


1838 




1321 


1839 




1433 


1840 




1570 


1841 




1151 




Totals, 


8985 




Averages, 


• 1283 



L.5299 11 2} 
L.757 1 7 



Ni^ht Asylum. — la 1840 a night asylum, unconnected with 
the House of Refuge, was opened for houseless wanderers, where 
shelter for the night and food are afforded, besides medical ad- 
vice and other temporary aid. This asylum still continues in ope- 
ration ; and both it and the asylum connected with the House 
of Refuge have been the means of affording temporary relief to 
thousands of indigent beings. 

Charitable Funds.— In 1731, Captain Horn left L.d500, the in- 
terest of which was to be annually distributed on Christmas day 
to such day-labourers of Edinburgh and Liberton as by the in- 
clemency of the weather may be set idle and reduced to want; 
— no family to receive above L.5 per aiinum or under L.2, 10s. 
In 1774, Mr Joseph Thomson of Mortonhall of Eildon left his 
property as a perpetual fund to be laid out in purchasing oats to 
be made into meal, which was to be distributed among poor house- 
holders of Edinburgh at lOd. per peck when the usual price of 
such. article exceeded that sum. This charity is under the ma« 
nagement of the Deputy-Keepers of the Signet* 

In 1639, Dr Robert Johnston of London left L.3000 for chari- ' 
table purposes, the residue of which was paid into the treasury of 
Trinity Hospital. 

In 1 700, John Strachan^ writer, Edinburgh, left his estate of 
Craigcrook in trust to the presbytery of Edinburgh, to be by them 
bestowed in small sums to poor old people not under sixty-fiv 
years of age, and to orphans not above twelve years. The income 
of this property now exceeds L.300 a-year. 

Charitable Societies, — There are a number of charitable Asso- 
ciations in full activity to meet the various demands of the com- 



738 EDlNBURaaSHIRB. 

■lOMty of Edioburgh. The simple mention of the names of these 
will be sttfficieot to point out their objects, — The Society for the 
Relief of the Destitute Sick and Fever Board — Society for Relief 
of Incurables — Society for the Suppression of Begging — Benevo- 
lent and Strangers' Friend Society — Seamen's Friend Society — 
Society for Relief of Indigent Old Men — Do. for Old Women — 
Orkney and Zetland Society — House of Industry. 

House of Industry and Servants* Home. — There are about 30 
indigent females received into this Institution, where work is pro- 
vided for them. About 80 children are also taught in an infant 
scfaooL Teachers are received at a very moderate board to be 
trained for other schools. 

A very useful adjunct has been lately made to this charity, — a 
Servant/ Home^ where respectable but friendless young women 
are received, when out of place, at a very small board ; and work 
furnished to them until suitable service can be procured. It is 
under the management of a comuuttee of ladies. 

Baths. — A society of the working classes has set agoing a sub* 
scription for the erection of public baths, and a building for this 
purpose has been commenced in Liow Caltoo Street. 

VIII. — Tbads and Mamufacturss. 

Edinburgh has never been famous as a great manufacturing city. 
It contains few general merchants, its trade being chiefly retail ; 
but Leithjt which may be considered its sea-port, holds a conspi- 
cuous rank for its extensive shipping and export and import trade. 

In 1661 a Merchant Company was established by royal charter, 
and in 1 736 a Chamber of Commerce for the encouragement and 
protection of the commercial interests of the country. . The chief 
manufactures are those of candles^ soap^Jlint glass^ the distiOatiam 
of whisky^ ale brewerieSj shawl and linen manufactures^ iron fiun^ 
deries, and type founderies. Book printing to a considerable ex- 
tent is carried on. 

A silk mill was established some years ago in the vicinity of 
Edinburgh, but it has not been successful. 

A considerable number of large paper mills are in active opera- 
tion in the county, and with which merchants belonging to Edin- 
burgh are concerned. The carpet manufactory of Messrs Whytock 
is also carried on in the vicinity of Lasswade. 

A manufactory of tobacco pipes is established in the Canongate. 
The linen manufacture, which atone time was considerable, has now 
greatly declined — scarcely 50 looms beingemployed in that branch* 



EDINBURGH. 739 

Coach building is prosecuted to a considerable extent, several 
large establishments being in full operation. 

As Edinburgh is resorted to by a great number of the gentry 
and families from the country as a place of agreeable and fashion- 
able residence, and also as a place of education for their families, 
a very extensive retail trade is thus formed, and a considerable 
portion of the rents of the country gentlemen pass through the 
hands of the Edinburgh bankers. 

Imitation India Shawls. — The manufacture of shawls, consisting 
of a warp of tram silk and a thread of Gne cotton, with a weft of 
spun silk, with patterns in imitation of the finest and most ad- 
mired India shawls, was first commenced on a small scale in Edin* 
burgh iu the year 1805, by Mr W. Ferguson, of the firm of Plen- 
derleath and Company, linen manufacturers. Specimens of these 
shawls were exhibited at the annual exposition of manufiictures of 
the ^* Board of Trustees," and being much admired, obtained a 
premium. Other individuals subsequently commenced similar 
manufactures; but the business, though supposed to have first 
commenced in Edinburgh, has never been pushed there to any 
great extent. 

Engraving. — This country was not early pre-eminent in the 
art of engraving. It is a curious fact, however, that an engraver 
of the name of Cooper in Edinburgh was the first teacher of Sir 
Jlobert Strange, whose splendid works are known all over the 
world. We have seen plates engraved by this great man during 
the term of his apprenticeship, which were very far from holding 
out anything like indications of the talent which he afterwards ex- 
hibited ; but not satisfied with his opportunities here, or in Eng- 
land, he travelled to Italy, where he executed a number of exqui- 
site drawings from the works of Guido, and other ancient masters^ 
chiefly in red and black chalks, which afterwards served him as 
copies for some of his matchless engravings. Strange was the 
first in any country, who, as an engraver, took a comprehensive 
view of his art, and leaving the unmeaning details in the mode of 
execution then in practice by his contemporaries, and the styles of 
his predecessors, Bolswert Fisher, Mark Antonio, &c., be at once 
achieved the power of making the lines of his engraving express 
the texture of the human skin, and any other substances repre- 
sented, together with even the colours of his original. In this re- 
spect he was the inventor of tliis style, and as yet he has had 
competitors but no successful rivals, if we even admit equals, at 



740 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

home or abroad. He is reported to have realised a large fortune 
from the sale of his works, which at the present day continue to 
bear a high price, when the impressions are good. 

Another pupil of Cooper's, Andrew Bell, the celebrated pro- 
jector and proprietor of the four or five first editions of the great 
national work the Encyclopaedia Britannica, was the first means, 
however, of benefiting engraving in Edinburgh, for to the great 
encouragement which that publication met with we are indebted 
principally (or the stimulus given to engraving. During the early 
period of Bell's business, up to 1800, the performances in the art 
of engraving in Edinburgh were sufficiently unpretending, if not 
' actually mean ; but this enterprising man, joining to tolerable pro. 
ficiency as an artist, admirable tack as a man of business^ had 
the merit of searching out and rearing up a host of talented young 
men as apprentices, some of whom afterwards went to London 
and adorned the capital with their works, then equal in merit to 
any of their rivals; while others, whose lot was cast in Edinburgh, 
were the first to produce engravings at all worthy of the name, 
and all of which have been done subsequently to the year 
1795. 

In the present Account, it appears most advisable to refer to the 
works rather than to the names of the engravers, which might be 
thought invidious, seeing that some of them are still alive ; and 
we commence with two of the plates of King Lear, engraved for 
Boydel's Shakspeare, and one of the murder of the princes in the 
Tower for the same work ; portraits of the late Dr Spence and 
of Earl Denbigh ; portraits of the late Lord Justice-Clerk Brax- 
field, and President Campbell ; Death of Sir Ralph ABercronnby. 
Many plates from Wilkie's and Allan's pictures have been ren- 
dered with much truth and richness of workmanship; and the 
classical views of Greece and Italy, by the late H. W. Williams, 
all engraved in Edinburgh, are certainly got up in a style equal to 
that of any modern work. When, in conclusion, we have mentioned 
the print of Daniel in the Lions* Den, after the celebrated picture 
by Rubens in the palace at Hamilton, we have nearly e&bausted 
our enumeration of picture engraving upon any thing approximate 
ing to a great scale produced in the capital of Scotland up to the 
present time. The great and increasing demand by the public 
for. illustrated works, and ti.. encouragement held out to pub- 
lishers to embark their capital in them, have called into active 
exertion a number of talented engravers. 

Previous to 1790, there were only about two, or at most three, 



EDINBURGH. 741 

engravers on copper in this city, and about as many workers on 
silver and other metals ; now, the number of persons who in 
Edinburgh are exclusively supported from the practice of this art 
in one shape or another, with their families, exceeds 80. The 
discovery of engraving upon steel instead of copper plates has 
been a great means of encouraging the art of engraving, by en- 
abling booksellers to speculate on works which could not have been 
attempted otherwise ; the one metal being adapted for throwing off 
fifty times the number of impressions which can be printed from 
the other. This change in the material of plates for engraving 
began to be adopted in 1825, and was first applied to a success- 
ful competition with the London engravers in the manufacture of 
bank note plates and other commercial forms. In so far as the 
quantity of employment is taken into view, it must be confessed 
that this art and the persons engaged in it are, at the present mo- 
ment, in a prosperous state ; but still it is to be lamented that no 
works of magnitude are encouraged ; or rather the truth is, that 
the extraordinary demand for plates for illustrations in books of 
all sorts, keeps employed all the talent both in London and Edin- 
burgh which can be obtained, and the most encouraging prices 
are held out for such. In 1800, three or four guineas would have 
been deemed a good price for octavo vignettes ; now, forty, 
fifty, and eighty guineas have frequently been given for similar 
plates ; of course the execution cannot bear comparison ; and 
these high prices have been given by London publishers to many 
of the Edinburgh artists for plates for various periodical works 
which issue from London as Christmas presents, &c. &c. It is 
impossible to give here any thing like a rate of wages paid to 
journeymen engravers, who, in scarcely any instance, are upon 
set allowances, their jobs being all what are technically termed 
piece work. There are several who earn from L.^ to L.4 pef week, 
but the average cannot be taken much above L.1, 10s. per week. 

There are in Edinburgh 85 engravers, including masters and jour- 
neymen. In this business it would be very difficult always to distin- 
guish journeymen from masters, for the facilities in conducting it 
are open to all, without distinction and without capital, as in other 
trades, so that the journeymen are as often engaged on works on 
their own account as for masters ; few of whom keep large esta- 
blishments in their offices, and rather prefer to employ the work- 
men out of doors in their own houses. 

Copperplate Printing. — In the year 1790 there could not have 
been more than 3 copperplate printing presses in Edinburgh : 



742 EDINBURGHSHIBE, 

now, there is in one establishment above SS constantly occupied, 
and some of them sometimes by night as well as by day, with fresh 
men for the night work, thus increasing the number of presses at 
least to 30 in this office ; besides, there are many other establish* 
ments in the city varying from 3 and 4 up to 7, and altogether, as 
near as we can ascertain, there appear to be 78 presses at the 
present time in pretty full and steady employment, which affords 
the best evidence of the extraordinary increase which, of late years, 
has taken place in this department of business. There are about 
80 copperplate pressmen in Edinburgh at the present time, jour- 
neymen and apprentices, whose wages- vary from 10s. to dOs. per 
week for the journeymen, and from 2s. to 10s. for the apprentices. 
About half a dozen years ago, there was an attempt made to get 
up a Benefit Society amongst the engravers : but after it had been 
in existence for about two years it was broken up and its funds di* 
vided, which is much to be lamented. The copperplate printers 
have attempted similar schemes, but have not been very successful, 
so that at present neither the one nor the other are incorporated 
by any general laws or agreements ; and there are consequently no 
privileges of any sort amongst them. 

Engraving an Wood* — There are only eight engravers on wood 
at present in Edinburgh ; but, so far as we know, there has been no 
work of any great importance executed on this material. The chief 
employment consists iu cutting diagrams and other scientific details 
for the numerous works which are printed at the Edinburgh press. 

Lithographic Engraving and Printing. — This art, although much 
patronised by the Society of Arts and by a Society founded some 
years ago for the express purpose of fostering its growth amongst 
us, has not improved to any extent either as an art or as a link of 
commercial employment, and is chiefly confined to the printing of 
circulars of various sorts transferred in the handwriting of the 
party, or in the manufacture of plans of estates. At present there 
are about 7 lithographic establishments, employing about 12 or 15 
people in drawing and printing. 

Till of late years, the journeymen engravers and copperplate 
printers were very dissipated in their habits ; but at present we 
have cause to know that there is not a more sober class of men 
in Edinburgh than the engravers; and the copperplate printers 
have also very much improved in this respect. 

Brewing. — The number of brewers in Edinburgh is 26, of vie* 
tuallers 1488. The annual consumpt of malt amounts to 3^9,606 
bushels. 



KDINBUBGH. ^43 

Markets* — A meal market is held id the Grassmarket every 
Tuesday, and a grain market in the same place every Wednesday. 

IX,— Poor. 

In Edinburgh, as in all Scotland, none is entitled to ap- 
ply for relief but aged and impotent poor, or widows with 
young children. Persons able to work, however destitute, are 
not recognised as legally entitled to parochial relief, but are allow* 
ed occasional assistance. Persons applying for relief, according to 
the general poor law of Scotland, must have resided three con- 
tinuous years within the royalty, comprehending fourteen parishes, 
and during that time maintained themselves by their own industry, 
and so acquired what is termed an industrial settlement. 

City Workhouse. — The funds for relief of the^ poor are, — 

1. The collection at the church doors of the fourteen Esta- 
blished Churches in the royalty, which formerly amounted on an 
average to L.2100 per annum, but which has now greatly decreased. 

2. A per centage assessment on the tenants of houses and shops, 
on a charge of four-fifths of the real or actual rent, as surveyed 
annually by the stentmasters. Prom this tax the members of 
the College of Justice, viz. the Judges, Advocates, and Writers to 
the Signet, whose aggregate rental within the royalty is about 
L.50,000 per annum, were exempted by an ancient privilege ; but 
by the recent poor-law bill, this exemption is abolished. 

Besides these sums, there are some mortifications or legacies of 
mortmain, producing about L.lOO per annum, and an annuity 
payable by the Town-Council of the city, by the original contract 
at erection of the Charity Workhouse in 1740, of L.200. 

There are also occasional sums received under the head of 
" Casual Revenue,'' consisting of legacies or donations, the 
amount of which is extremely uncertain and seldom of any extent. 

Managers of the Poor's Funds. — Previous to 1740, each kirk- 
session administered its own poor^s funds, consisting of the col- 
lections at the church door, and an assessment of two per cent. : 
but in that year, in consequence of its being considered expedient 
to erect a general charity workhouse or poor-houae for all the 
parishes, a contract was entered into on the part of the Lord Pro- 
vost, Magistrates, and Town- Council with the kirk- sessions, by 
which the management of the whole poor, as well within as with- 
out the poor-house, was vested in a set of managers, consisting of 
representatives from the se?sions, the Town- Council, and other pub- 
lic bodies, with a general treasurer. These managers consbted 



744 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

of 18 from TowB-CouDcil, 5 Lords of Session, 28 Kirk-ses* 
sions, 3 Episcopal Clergy, 1 Court of Exchequer, 6 Advocates, 
6 Writers to the Signet, I, University, 18 Guildry, 2 College of 
Physicians, 14 Incorporated Trades, 2Convenery, 1 Candlemakers, 
1 Barbers. From this body, who were elected once a year in the 
month of July, a committee of 21 Ordinary Managers was ap« 
pointed to conduct the usual detail of business. 

Id 1844 an act of Parliament was obtained, whereby the ma* 
nagement of the city poor was consigned to the town-council of 
Edinburgh, and considerable alterations have since been made 
in the ^establishment ; the lunatics have been transferred to 
Morningside Asylum ; and the poor children have been boarded 
out with families in the country. 

By this act, also, power is given to assess the inhabitants for 
the accumulated debt incurred by the late managers* 

Buildings for the Poor.— 1. The Charity Work-house or Poor 
House, capable of accommodating 450 inmates, with a chapel in 
the centre, where prayers are conducted morning and evening, 
and on Sabbath sermon preached twice by the house governor, 
who is a licentiate of the Church of Scotland. This house is 
under the management of a resident house governor, the chaplain, 
and a matron. 

2. Children's Hospital, capable of containing about 220, under 
a superintendent and his wife. In this department there is a regular 
school, where the children are instructed in reading, grammar, 
writing, arithmetic, geography, and general knowledge, according 
to the improved system of teaching, under a master and assistant, 
with the addition of a sewing mistress for the girls in that branch, 
when of a proper age. The boys are apprenticed to different 
trades, and the girls placed out at domestic service. 

Form of application and of granting relief. — All applications for 
relief by the poor are made at the office of the treasurer; where 
a printed form or schedule of a petition is issued to the applicant, 
containing a series of questions to be answered and &lled in, as 
to residence, reasons for applying, &c. This is returned to the 
office certified by householders and elders as directed. It is then 
taken charge of by an officer for the purpose, called the inspector, 
who visits the parties, and makes up a separate corresponding re* 

port. 

These petitions, with the inspector's reports, are considered by 
the committee on applications, on stat^ days ; on which the par- 
ties are desired to attend, and their circumstances considered. 



KDINBURGH. 745 

The relief granted is in the following different modes : 

1. If the application is made in consequence of some temporary 
pressure, as accidents or sickness, temporary aid is granted ; to be 
continued no longer than the cause for it exists. It is paid on 
certain subsequent days under the committee's inspection. 

2. If the applicant is aged and infirm, the relief granted is by 
being placed on the list of out-pensioners, by a ticket paid twice 
in the quarter, or by. admittance to the poor house. 

8. If the applicant is a widow with children, it is usual to give 
an out- pension, proportionate to the number of the family ; or to 
admit some of them to the children's hospital. 

4. When orphan children are left quite destitute, £hey are either 
boarded out or admitted to the children's hospital. 

5. If application is made for a deranged person belonging to 
the city, the history of such person is detailed in the printed 
schedule, and a separate form, with medical certificate, is filled up, 
as required by act of Parliament, and the order of the sheriff for 
admission annexed, when the person is taken into the lunatic de- 
partment 

City Poor. — The average number of inmates during the year 
1844 was — 

In Work-house, - • . . 405 

In Children's Hospital, - - . 259 

In Bedlam, - - - . . hq 

Total, - - - - 775 

The expense of maintenance of each of these individuals for 
twelve months amounts to L.7, 9s. 6d. 

The expense of food alone for each individual is 2^d. per day. 
The out-door pensioners, during same period, amounted to 

Men, ---.-. 215 

Single or Married Females, - . . jgA 

Widows, S9Q 

Children, - - - . . 341 

Total, .... 2132 

Total amount of assessments, church collections, and other 
items, for 1844, L. 13,382. 

A general Poor Law Bill for Scotland has, in the present year, 
(1845), been introduced into Parliament, which, it is hopedj will 
have a beneficial effect in alleviating the destitution of the poor, 
and regulating the relief afforded, especially in large. cities. 

In Edinburgh there is always a great number of poor in a very 
wretched condition, chiefly owing to the want of employment for 
women and young persons, — there being no manufactures, and 



746 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

band spinDing of linen yarn, which was once a regular occupation, 
being now completely superseded by mill machinery. 

There are also many Irish always resident in it, who subsist in 
a mean and filthy state, with large families, chiefly hawkers of fish, 
fruit, &C., or rearers of pigs. A great deal of private charity is 
given in Edinburgh, which, it is said, has the effect of drawing 
the poor to it from a very wide circle of the country, with the 
view, also, of making out a three years' residence. 

CanoTiffate Chanty Workhouse, — The management of this house 
is now vested in fifty-six directors, chosen anuually, viz. four from 
the magistrates, the two ministers of the parish, the minister of the 
chapel in New Street, twenty-five from the heritors, eight from 
the kirk-session, and sixteen from the incorporations. 

These are called the Extraordinary Managers of the Charity 
Workhouse, because they hold stated meetings once a quarter 
only, although they may at any time -be called together by the 
treasurer or by the clerk on a requisition signed by any six of their 
number. At their meeting in June, they chose from their number 
a committee of fifteen, any five to be a quorum, to act as ordinary 
managers in the constant inspection and conduct of the business 
of the house. 

Some of the parochial poor are taken into the house, and are 
maintained entirely from its funds ; others receive small out-pen- 
sions ; and others small sums to help them to pay the rents of 
their houses. The managers have also to pay for the nursing of 
infants out of the house, and for the board and keeping of insane 
paupers. For many years this expense was defrayed without hav- 
ing recourse to an assessment 

In 1765, the kirk-session declared their readiness to convey 
to the managers of the workhouse ^* the whole funds belong- 
ing to the poor, and the securities taken for the same, so far 
as hitherto the same had fallen under their administration." But, 
agreeably to the wishes of the managers, the session enacted, 
*^ That the poor's funds vested in the session, and lent out in 
their name, should be continued on this footing, that the securi- 
ties for the same should be taken in the name of the kirk-session, 
or their treasurer for the time being : But that the said fiinds 
should be, from time to time, lent out, uplifl;ed, and applied by 
the authority and direction of a meeting of the fifteen ordinary ma- 
nagers of the charity workhouse, or a quorum of their number : 



EDINBURGH. 747 

And farther, that the securities so taken should remain, with the 
records of the kirk-session, in their charter chest." 

These funds, with the collections made at the doors of the pa- 
rish church and of the chapels, with dues on mortcloths and pri- 
vate baptisms, were for a long time the only constant sources of 
income for the workhouse. Occasionally, indeed, private dona- 
tions were received ; and, for some time, a benefit play was grant- 
ed every year by the managers of the Edinburgh Theatre. 

But the population of the parish increasing without any propor- 
tionate increase of wealth, the income derived from these sources 
proved insuflScient for defraying the expense of the establishment ; 
and it was thought necessary to raise money by an assessment. 
The assessment first imposed was, in the year 1812, at the rate 
of 6d. on every pound Sterling of rent, one-half to be paid by the 
landlord and one-half by the tenant, and it continued at this rate 
for five years; but afterwards it was altered several times. Thus, 
in the year 1817, the rate per pound Sterling of rent was 8d. ; 
1819, Is.; 1820, 8d.; 1826, Is.; 1827, Is. 2d.; 1830, Is. 4d.; 
1832, Is. 6d.; 1844, Is. 6d. 

The assessment, with the church collections, work done in the 
house, and other items, amounted in 1844 to L. 1164^ The 
average number of inmates for the same year was 97 ; of out-pen- 
sioners 186. The maintenance of each inmate amounts to L.5, 
Jds. 8d. annually. The pauper lunatics of the parish are boarded 
at Morningside Asylum. 

St Cuihbert or West CAvrcA.— This parish, which is one of the 
largest and wealthiest in Scotland, contained in 1841 a population 
of 71,904. The number of paupers belonging to it, as at 1st 
August 1845, amounts to 2116, — consisting of 1666 out-door poor, 
385 maintahsed in the parish workhouse, and 65 lunatics. Of the 
whole paupers, not more than about one-fifth are natives of the 
parish. 

The funds for the support of the poor are, 1«/, The collections 
at the doors of the Established Church and Chapels of Ease con- 
nected therewith, which have for several years past been decreas- 
ing. These amount annually to about L.130. *2dj The proceeds 
of mortcloth dues, which are also on the decrease. There are 
besides these some mortifications or legacies of mortmain, pro- 
ducing yearly about L.20. Scf, The assessment on the rental of 
the parish, at the rate, for the last four years, of tenpence per 



748 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

pound — the one-half payable by the landlord, and the other half 
by the tenant. 

The proceeds of the annual assessment for the support of the 
poor of the parish is about L.8000. The funds realised for the 
year from Whitsunday 1844 to Whitsunday 1845, including ar- 
rears of assessment of preceding years, also L.1750 received in 
compensation for leave of way through part of the new bury« 
ing-grounds at the West Church and through the grounds at the 
work-house, and Ji.600 of arrears of the proceeds of sales of lairs, 
&c. in the bury ing-grounds, amounted to L. 11,774, 5s. 6|d.; and 
the expenditure for the same period, to L.10,234, 17s. 3{d. As 
the sources of extraordinary income, which for some years past 
supplemented the deficiency of the ordinary revenue, are now 
nearly exhausted ; and as the number of the poor is yearly in- 
creasing — the increase for the last four years being about 743 pau- 
pers — and the additional expenditure on that account about 
L.2400, the heritors find it necessary to impose, for next year, 
dd. per pound additional, thus raising the poorVrate to Is. Id. 
per pound. 

Work'-house, — In the year 1 744 the enrolled poor were 220, be- 
sides 58 begging poor who were furnished with badges. The 
work-house was erected in 1761 , and first opened for the reception 
of paupers on 27th May 1762. The number of inmates, the first 
year, was 84, and 97 the second year. The work-house was en- 
larged at different periods ; part of it was appropriated for lunatic 
paupers; and in 1637 it contained at one time 539 inmates. Its 
size scarcely affording comfortable accommodation for so many, 
the number of inmates has for several years past been gradually 
reduced. The inmates work at shoemaking, joiner-work, weaving, 
sewing, knitting, hair-teasing, and other such employments. The 
work-house is well conducted, and the inmates are comfortably 
maintained, though the average of each costs only about L.6 a- 
year. 

Attached to the work-house is a school, in which nearly 200 
pauper children, inmates of the work-house, are taught reading, 
writing, arithmetic, grammar, geography, sacred music, and reli- 
gious and general knowledge, and attend a Sabbath evening school. 
There is also a sewing-school. The school is publicly examined 
half-yearly. 

The house-governor, acting also as treasurer, always held the 
office of chaplain ; but finding the duties of these three conioined 



» 

EDINBURGH. ?49 

t 

6fBces too onerous, the managers, on his suggestion, recently ap- 
pointed a chaplain. A committee of ladies daily visit the female 
inmates to read the scriptures, and converse with them on religious . 
subjects. Missionaries also occasionally visit the work-house. The 
whole inmates assemble morning and evening for divine worship. 

There was recently erected at the work-house a Ftmeratory, to 
which the bodies of the poor who die in ihe work-house, and in 
different parts of the parish, are removed previous to interment ; 
and from that bouse the funerals are conducted, and are generally 
attended by relatives, and other friends of the deceased. 

The heritors purchased forty perpetual rights at L.d4 each, 
amounttng to L. 1360, for thd admission of lunatic paupers into 
the Royal Edinburgh Lunatic Asylum at Momingside, and are 
entitled, by agreement, to have accommodation ifi that excellent 
institution for all the lunatic paupers whom the parish may have 
at any time to provide for, and that at the lowest rate of boards 
which at present is L. 15 per annum. Accordingly, the male lu- 
natics, eight in number, were transferred from the work-house to 
the asylum, on the 93d March 1841 ; and the female lunatics, 
twenty-five in number, on the 14th September 1842. The num- 
ber of these patients has increased to sixty-five on the SOth June 
1845. 

The out-door poor are paid once every month by the work-house 
governor, who disburses all the money expended in the various 
departments of the management, keeps a regular set of books, by 
double entry, embracing accounts of his own transactions, and of 
the rotromissions of the collector of the assessment, and of all the 
fiinds and expenditure of the parish, which are annually audited 
by a professional accountant, unconnected with the Board of Ma- 
nagement, who reports thereon to the statutory meeting of heri- 
tors and kirk-session held in August annually. 

The kirk-session managed the affairs relating to the support of 
the poor until August 183S, since which period the administration 
thereof has been conducted by a Board of Management, consist- 
ing of 1*20 heritors. This board, who meet quarterly, subdivide 
themselves into six boards, each having twenty members meeting 
monthly in different parts of the parish for the superintendence of 
the out-door poor. They divide themselves also into the following 
committees: viz. 1. Committee on the internal Management of 
the work-house. 2. Committee oji Education. 3. Assessment 
Committee. 4. Finance Committee. 5. Out-pension Commit* 

EDINBURGH. 3 B 



*^^^ EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

tee. 6. Law Committee. The managers ha?e a clerk to issue 
notices for convening meetings, and writing minutes of their pro- 
ceedings. 

In 1833 a question occurred respecting the new burying grounds 
acquired by the kirk-session, who, to avoid legal proceedings, pro- 
posed, on certain conditions, an amicable arrangement. The he- 
ritors, however, raised an action, which terminated in a joint mi- 
nute of compromise and settlement, to which the Court of Session 
interposed their authority on 5th July 1844, leaving matters much 
in the same way as they formerly were^ after expending about 
L* 1500 in litigation. 

In September 1844 the managers appointed an inspector of 
the poor, and since then, also, an assistant-inspector, — an efficient 
staff of such officers being found necessary for making the requi- 
site investigations of the grounds of the claims of pauper applicants, 
and for efficiently superintending the out-door poor. 

The paid officers of the establishment are, 

House-Govemor, who acts as Treasurer, a salary per annum, with free lodgings* 

of 
House Matron, « « 

Teacher, 
Sewing Mistress, 

Keeper of Funeratory, t 

Surgeon, 

Teacher of Psalmody, 

Barber, • • 

Clerk to the Managers, 
Collector of Assessment, with a commission, varying according to 

rate of Assessment, amouDtiog generally to nearly, 
Surveyor and Assessor, do. 

Inspector of the Poor, 

Assistant inspector, < . 

Law Agent, 

In Edinburgh and Leith, by the census of 1841, there was 1 
pauper for every 33 of the population. 

X. — Miscellaneous, comprising Post-Office, Banks, &c. 

Post Office. — The first regular post between London and Edin- 
burgh was established in 1635. It was despatched from both 
places respectively once or twice a- week ; and the stated time for 
the journey was three days. The sum charged for a single letter 
from London was 8d., and from intermediate distances 6d., 4d., 
and 2d., the last including all places under eighty miles distance. 

In 1649 the post office was taken under the management of the 
Government, and, some years afterwards, farmed out to a post- 
master-general. The rates were somewhat lowered, and the 
post towns increased. 

In 1710 a new act amended the post office establishment; and 





L.140 


do. 


00 


da 


eo 


do. 


26 


do. 


89 O 


• 


35 




5 5 


• 


6 6 




100 


cordin 


g to tbc 


4 


aoo 




100 


. 


60 




41 12 



EDINBURGH. 751 

r^ular posts were sent to all parts of the country. As trade 
and commerce increased, the revenues of the post office, which 
for a long while were, in Scotland, very inconsiderable, began ra- 
pidly to augment. 

In 1707 the annual revenue of the Edinburgh office was 
L.1194; in 1776 it had increased to L.31,10d; in 1783 it ex- 
ceeded L.40,000; while in 1839 it amounted to upwards of 
L. 150,000* 

In 1776 a singular individual, Peter Williamson, then a keeper 
of a ^coffee-room in the hall of the Parliament House, but who 
had lived among the American Indians, first established, on his 
own account, a penny post in the city. For some years, this indi- 
vidual employed four postmen, who went through the streets 
ringing a bell, and collecting and distributing letters among the 
community. At last, by a mutual arrangement, the business, 
which turned out a profitable one, was handed over to the post 
office establishment. 

Previous to the new regulations of 1840, the rate of postage 
between Edinburgh and London for a single letter was Is. l^d., 
and twice this sum for a double letter, while lOd., 8d., 6d., and 
4d. were charged for intermediate distances. 

The number of letters and the amount of revenue have continued 
progressively to increase since the institution of the penny postage, 
and the accommodation and facility both of transmitting letters, 
parcels, and money have been most beneficially felt by the public. 

The number of officers and clerks employed in the Edinburgh 
post office is 74, and of letter-carriers, 81 ; total, 159. 

Amount of paid letters posted at Edinburgh for 1844, ^ L.59,65S 

charged letters, do. . . . 494 

money orders tor twelve months, . . 91,855 

£anA«.— The oldest established public banking house in Edin- 
burgh was the Bcmk of Scotland; which was erected by act of 
Parliament in 1695. By the statute this company was empower- 
ed to raise a joint stock of L.1,200,000 Scots, or L.100,000 Ster- 
ling. The smallest share which could be held was L.1000, and 
the largest sum L.20,000 Scots. The management of the affairs 
of this Company was vested in a governor, deputy- governor, and 
twenty-four directors. Every L.1000 share commanded a vote in 
theelection of office-bearers. The holder of three shares was eligible 
as a director, of six, as deputy-governor, and eight as governor. 
In 1774 the company applied for and obtained an act, empower- 
ing them to double their capital. The former partners were also 



752 BDINBURGHSHIRE. 

allowed to fill up their shares to double the amouut of the former 
limits; while* the qualifications of the ofiice-bearers were at the 
same time increased to double the amount. When the rival com* 
pany of the Royal Bank was established^ that company purchased 
up all the notes of the Bank of Scotland which they could lay 
their hands on,* and made such a run upon this bank as reduced 
them to considerable difficulties. To avoid such distresses for the 
future, the Bank of Scotland, in 1730, began to issue Li.5 notes 
payable on demand, or L.5, 2s. 6d. six months after their being 
presented for payment, in the option of the bank, and two years 
afterwards they began to issue L.1 notes with a similar clause. 
The other banking companies in Scotland followed the example ; 
till at length the whole country was deluged with notes even so 
low as for five shillings, while silver almost disappeared. To re- 
medy these abuses, an act was passed in 1765 prohibiting all notes 
under L.1, and declaring void all the optional clauses. 

The bank apartments are in that large building at the head of 
the Mound, which is built on a large elevated dead wall to the 
back, where the ground descends suddenly. The present capital 
of the company is one million Sterling. 

Royal Bank, — By the articles of Union, Scotland was declared 
to be liable to the same duties which were levied by way of cus- 
tom or excise in England. As these duties had, in England, been 
appropriated for the discharge of the national debts contracted 
before the Union, it was deemed reasonable to give Scotland an 
equivalent for this additional burthen. This sum was ordained to 
be paid for certain purposes and to certain persons or bodies cor- 
porate mentioned in the articles of Union and subsequent statutes. 
The proprietors of these sums to the extent of L.248,550 Ster- 
ling, were erected into a body corporate, under the name of the 
Equivalent Company^ and the sum mentioned was declared to be 
the joint stock of the company. 

This Company, at their own desire, obtained a royal charter^ 
empowering such of them as inclined to subscribe their shares in 
the joint-stock for that purpose, to carry on the business of bank- 
ing. Accordingly, in 1727, the subscribers were erected into a 
body corporate, called the Royal Bank of Scotland, with governor, 
who was obliged to hold L.2000 stock ; deputy^governor, a holder 
of L.1 500; ordinary directors, L.1 000; and extraordinary, L.500, 
The sum originally subscribed was L.111,000) which in 1738 

* Arnot, p. 531. 



EDINBURGH. 



^53 



wjts increased to L. 1 50,000. The present capital amounts to two 
millions Sterling. 

British Linen Compan^s Bank.^Th'is bank was established in 
1746, with a view to encourage the linen manufacture of Scotland, 
at that time beginning to be a lucrative trade, and carried on by 
companies and individuals throughout Scotland. In consequence 
of the aid afforded by this bank, the trade greatly increased in a 
few years. When the bank Brst started, the annual manufacture 
of this article amoimted to five million yards, valued at L.200,000 ; 
in twenty years, it had increased to fourteen millions, value 
L.700,000. The capital was at first L.100,000, itis now L.500,000. 
Its government and regulations are nearly the same as those of 
the Royal Bank. 

Commercial Bank. — This bank was established in 1810 by the 
merchants of Edinburgh and others, and is managed on a similar 
principle with the other banks. The capital is three millions 
Sterling ; the paid up capital L.600,000. 

National BanL — The extent of banking business and capital 
increasing with the increase of the town, another bank was insti- 
tuted in 1825, the shareholders, amounting to 1238, being all 
engaged in trade, manufactures, and shipping. The National 
Bank is managed on the same principles as the others. Its paid 
up capital is L.500>000. 

Besides these, there are the Edinburgh and Glasgow Bank^ the 
Union Bank of Scotlandp Alexander Allan and Co.^ and branches 
of the Glasgow and other county banks. 

Savings Bank, — These were first established by the Kev. Dr 
Duncan, minister of Ruthwell, in 1818, and subsequently regu- 
lated by act of Parliament The National Security Savings Bank 
of Edinburgh was instituted in 1836. Not less than Is. is re* 
ceived; nor more than £..30 during any one year. L.150 is the 
sum limited to a depositor, on which interest at the rate of L.3, 
6s. 8d. per cent is received. The funds of Friendly Societies 
and of charitable and provident institutions throughout Scotland 
may also be deposited here, bearing an interest of L.3, 1 0s. per 
cent Upwards of 20,000 deposit accounts are in this institu-< 
tion, amounting to the sum of L.220,000w 

Insurance Companies. — Friendly Insurance, — In 1720 a number 
of proprietors of houses mutually agreed to insure each other's 
property against fire by a deposit, amounting to the fifteenth part 
of the value of the subjects protected. The premiums thus raised 



When Established. 


Capital. 


1805 


L.150,000 


1809 


750,000 


1809 


500,000 


18J3 




1815 


1,000,000 


1821 


760,000 


1823 


500,000 


1824 


5,000,000 



754 EDINBUBGH8HIBE. 

were to be considered as the joint stock of the company, and the 
shares to be held in proportion to the capital invested. They 
were erected into a body corporate, first by the magistrates, and 
afterwards by Parliament. In 1767, their capital having accumu- 
lated beyond what was necessary to protect the property of the 
shareholders, they resolved to admit no more members on the 
original plan ; but they continue to insure proper^ on the usual 
plan of payment of an annual premium. Since the success of thb 
company, many others have been established in Edinburgh, a few 
of which are here enumerated. 

'Name. 
Caledonian Fire Insurance Company, 
Hercules Fire Insurance Company, 
North British Fire and Life Office, 
Scottish Life Assurance Company, 
Scottish Widows* Life Assurance, 
Insurance Company of Scotland, 
Edinburgh Life Assurance Company, 
Scottish Union Insurance Company, 

Uniofi CanaL — The idea of a water communication between 
Edinburgh and Glasgow began to be entertained so far back as 
1793 ; and at that time several surveys were made. Some time af- 
terwards, the town-council laid these surveys before Mr Ren- 
nie of London, and requested his opinion. That celebrated engi- 
neer conceiving these surveys objectionable, suggested a new line, 
which, he thought, could be executed on one level from Bruntsfield 
Links to Hill Head, near Glasgow. In coQsequence of a want 
of unanimity among the parties concerned, nothing farther, how* 
ever, was done till the year 1813, when the proprietors of the 
Forth and Clyde Canal suggested a collateral cut from that canal 
to Edinburgh, on a line surveyed by their architect Mr Baird. 
In 1815, Mr Telford approving of this line, the subscribers brought 
in a bill into Parliament for carrying it into effect ; but the bill 
being opposed by the magistrates of Edinburgh, was thrown out. 
In 1817, after various plans had been discussed at several meet- 
ings, that of Mr Baird was finally adopted ; and an act of Parlia- 
ment was obtained for carrying it into execution. The work was 
commenced in the spring of 1 818 ; and was completed and opened 
for the passage of boats in May 1 822. The canal is five feet deep^ 
and forty feet wide at the surface, contracting to twenty-two feet 
at the bottom. It commences at the Basin, Lothian Road, and 
joins the Forth and Clyde Canal at lock sixteen, near the village 
of Camelon, extending 31^ miles. There are three large aque- 
ducts, a tunnel about half a mile in length, and eleven locks on 



EDINBURGH. 755 

this canal. The expense was about L.400,000. The object of 
the canal was the conveyance of coals, of manure, of goods, and 
passengers. In this respect it has been beneficial to Edinburgh ; 
but, on the whole, the speculation has been anything but a pro- 
fitable one to the shareholders. One error in the construction of 
the canal was, not continuing it on to Leith ; another was, the 
narrowness of the canal, in consequence of which the size of the 
boats was limited, and their progression greatly impeded. 

Edinburgh and Dalkeith Railway. — This railway was commenced 
in 1827, and Opened in 1831. The line commences at St I^eo- 
nard's depot ; and terminates on the banks of the South Esk at 
Dalhousie, a distance of 8^ miles. At the commencement of the 
line, there is a descent of 1 16 feet; and a stationary engine is here 
employed. The rest of the line is very nearly a level. A tun- 
nel, 570 feet in length, passes through the south side of Arthur's 
Seat About 3^ miles from Edinburgh a branch goes off to Mus* 
selburgh, and another branch to Leith. The chief dbject of con- 
structing this railway was for the transport of coals, corn, and ma- 
nure ; but it is also well frequented by passengers. Horses are em- 
ployed in the waggons, as the act does not permit locomotive en- 
gines. The original stock consisted of L.57,000 in L.50 shares, to 
which was subsequently added L.32,000. And, including the 
outlay on the branches, the total outlay is L.150,000, which yields 
about 4 per cent. 

About 100,000 tons of goods and 300,000 passengers are an- 
nually conveyed on it. This railway has now (1845) been pur- 
chased by the North British Railway Company. 

The Edinburgh^ Leiihj and Newhaven Railway. — An act was 
obtained for this railway in 1836. Considerable delay took place 
in going on with it; but in 1843 it was opened from Trinity to 
Scotland Street A tunnel from this point to the east end of 
Princes Street is going on, and will complete the line, making 2^ 
miles. The capiul is L. 100,000. 

The EdirAurgh and Glasgow Railway. — An act was obtained 
for this railway in 1838, and the works were finished and the rail- 
way opened in the spring of 1842. It commences at the* Hay mar- 
ket, Edinburgh, and terminates near George's Square, Glasgow, 
extending about 46 miles in length. It crosses the river Almond 
by a noble viaduct of 36 arches, each 50 feet in span. The line 
is, on the whole, very levels the steepest gradient being 1 foot in 
880, with the exception of the inclined plane on approaching Glas- 



766 



ED1NBUKGH8HIRE. 



gow. The capital is L.000,000, with power to borrow L-^CKHOOO 
additional. A cootinuation of the railway from the Haymarkei 
to the north end of the North Bridge is now nearly completed. 

TraiBc for the week ending SGUi July ld45. 
Number of passengers 25,234. 

Receipts, Lj96d7 14 2 

Horses and cavriages, cattle, goods, &o« 740 19 

L.d878 13 2 
Corresponding week 1844. . L.24^ 16 4 

The North British Railwayj a line along the sea coast from 
Newcastle^ is at present in progress, and will join the Glasgow 
railway at the mutual terminus, North Bridge. 

Mail and Stage Coaches. — The number of these which leave 
Edinburgh for the various routes amounts to 90. 

Hackney Coaches. — The number of hackney coaches, eabs, and 
omnibuses licensed to ply in Edinburgh is 200. 

Edinburgh Water Company* — In 1621 an act of the Scottish 
Parliament empowered the Edinburgh town-council to bring ia 
water to the city ; and gave them liberty to cast ^^ seuchs and ditches*^ 
in the lands through which the springs behoved to gass. No.mea- 
suresy however, were taken to carry this act into execution till the 
year 1674, when the magistrates employed a German plumber, at 
an expense of L.29^d0 Sterling, to bring water in a leaden pipe of 
three inches diameter from Comiston springs to a reservoir on 
the Castle Hill. In 1722 a pipe of 4^ inches diameter was laid ; 
but the city continuing to increase in size, the supply of water was 
found, to be very scanty ;. and in 1787 a cast-iron pipe of 5 inches 
diameter was added. In 1790 additional springs were procured 
nfi Swanston, and three miles farther south, and a pipe of 9 inches 
bore was laid at an expense to the city of Edinburgh of L.20,000. 
Hitherto the expense had been defrayed J^y the town-council, al- 
though several unsuccessful attempts had been made to assess the 
inhabitants. The supply of water still continuing iosu£Bcient for 
the increasing population, a new water Company was formed^ and 
incorporated by act of Parliament in 1818. A capital was raised 
by shares of L.25 each, the magistrates, as the representatives of 
the community, holding shares to the amount of L. 30,000, for 
their right in the new Company. The capital was at first limited 
to L. 135,000, but in 1^6, by a new act, was extended to 
L.253,000. By these acts, every tenant is assessed in the sum of 
lOd. per pound on four- fifths of his rent, as rated in the police 
books. 



EDINBURGH. 757 

' In addition to the (brmer springs, a new one was opened at 
Crawley, on the south-east side of th^'e Pentlands, nearly nine miles 
from Edinburgh. Here a large cistern was formed, 45 feet long, 
15 feet wide, and 6 feet deep, protected by outside walls and an 
arched roof. From this cistern a main cast-iron pipe, varying 
from 20 to 1 5 inches in bore, is carried along the valley of Glen- 
corse to Milton Mill, where it passes through a tunnel a mile in 
length ; from thence it runs by Straiten, Burdiehouse, and Liber- 
ton Dams, to the north side of the Meadows, where it again en- 
ters a tunnel, and crossing the Grassmarket, enters a third tunnel 
and passes into Princes Street, the whole length from Glencorse 
to this spot being 8| miles. From this main pipe there are 
two branches, one going to supply the reservoir in the green of 
Heriot's Hospital, and the other the reservoir on the CastlehilU 
The reservoir at Heriot's Hospital supplies the southern districts^ 
that on the Castle Hill supplies the Old Town or middle district, 
while the New Town is chiefly supplied by the remainder of the 
main pipe. A pipe also goes to supply Leith. 

The total supply of water is estimated at 298 cubic feet, or 
1857 imperial gallons per minute. 

The expense of these works amounted to nearly L.200,000» 
It was considerably increased by the construction of the Com- 
pensation Pond, a large reservoir of water formed by a deep 
embankment in a gorge of the Pentlands. The object of this 
reservoir was to intercept and accumulate the flood water of a 
small stream, the Glencorse Burn ; which overplus was given as a 
compensation to the mills on the course of this burn, for the 
waters of the Crawley Spring, now diverted into the city of Edin** 
burgh. Notwithstanding this great additional source of water, it 
was occasionally found that the supply was scanty; complaints 
were made, too, that the city was sometimes supplied with impure 
surface water, instead of that from the deep springs ; and the un- 
precedentedly dry season of 1842 caused an alarming stoppage of 
water for days together. In consequence of this a new water com- 
pany was projected, but again abandoned on a compromise with 
the old company. A new bill was obtained in 1843, by which the 
water company were obliged to fulfil a provision of the former bill^ 
and to bring in certain additional springs at Bevilaw, for the better 
supply of the citizens, without increasing the rate of assessment. 

Previous to the introduction of water pipes the city was supplied 
by wells ; and water caddies^ or carriers, were regularly employed 



758 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

to carry this necessary of life up the long winding stairs of the 
high lands or houses in the old town. In thiisi way the supply was 
very deficient, not only as regarded diet, but as bearing upon clean- 
liness in every respect, and consequently on the health and com- 
fort of the community. 

Edinburgh Gas Light Company. — So early as 1554, some very 
imperfect attempts were made to light the principal streets of the 
city by hanging out bowets or lanterns from certain places fixed 
upon by the magistrates, which were to be kept lighted for four 
hours. In 1684, by another order of the magistrates, a lantern 
with a burning candle, as already noticed, was to be hung out at 
the first story of every house, under a penalty of five merks. Id 
later times, the streets were pretty well lighted up by means of oil 
lamps till the introduction of coal gas. 

About the beginning of the present century, the practicability 
of using coal gas for the purpose of illumination was proved at the 
engineering establishment of Messrs Boulton and Watt, Soho, 
Birmingham, and subsequently introduced into London. In 
1817, a gas company was formed in Edinbuf^gh, gas works 
were established, and in the spring of the following year, the 
shops on the North and South Bridges were lighted up with this 
brilliant light. Next winter the theatre and public streets were 
lighted up, and, in a short time, gas was very generally introduced 
into private houses. The works of this company, erected in 
the Canongate, are extensive, and contain eight gasometers. 
Upwards of 202,000 cubical feet are manufactured daily. In 
1825, another manufactory was established at Tanfield for the 
purpose of manufacturing gas from oil; but this did not suc- 
ceed, and ultimately the works were purchased by the coal gas 
company. Here four gasometers are kept by the company for 
the supply of the northern portion of the town. Gas pipes, with 
a diameter from fifteen to one and a half inches, extend through- 
out all the streets of the town, the estimated length amounting to 

eighty miles. 

Edinburgh and Leith Gas Company, — In 1839 a new gas com- 
pany was formed, the subscribers to which purchased the Leith 
gas works. They were incorporated by act of Parliament ; and 
pipes being laid by this company throughout the streets of Edin- 
burgh, while the works are carried on at Leith, they thus afford a 
supply to both towns. 



EDINBURGH. 759 

The price of gas by both companies has now been reduced to 
6s. 6d. per 1000 feet. 

FtteL — Edinburgh being in the centre of the Scottish coal 
field, is abundantly supplied with this article of fuel. Pit coal 
appears to have been used as early as the year 1291 ; for in that 
year a charter was granted to the abbot and convent of Dunferm- 
line, giving them the privilege of digging coal in the lands of Pit- 
tencrieff in Fife. The working of coal mines, however, seems to 
have been carried on to a very small extent even for centuries after 
this ; for in the early history of Edinburgh, we have already alluded 
to several fires caused in the burgh, by the ignition of peats and 
brushwood piled up in the narrow closes. The city is now sup- 
plied with coals brought from the pits a few miles to the south- 
ward, by means of the Dalkeith Railway ; as also with coals from 
the western districts carried by the Union Canal, and by the 
Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway. The price of these coals va- 
ries according to quality. Before the means of conveyance already 
mentioned was opened up, the price of cnals varied from 12s. to 
14s. per ton. They are now reduced to from 8s. to 12s. deliver- 
ed at the doors. English coals cost L. 1 per ton, including all 
expenses. 
The annual quantity of coals carried into Edinburgh is as follows * 

By Datkeith Railway, . 100,222 Tons. 

Union Canal, . . . 83,061 

Glasgow Railway, . 36*288 

From Tranent, . . . 23,000 



242,591 



I>o.toL«Ui, . 52,000 



L E I T H * 

PRESBYTERY OF EDINBURGH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEEDDALE. 

REV. A. DAVIDSON, Minister of North Leith. 

REV. WILLIAM STEVENSON,! „ ., ^ e .n r -.i 

REV. HENRY DUFF, J ^««^'^' ^/ ^<^^^ ^^^^ 



I. — Civil History. 

The town of Leith is situated on the shores of the Firth of Forth, 
at the point where the small river of Leith pours its waters into 
the sea. The earliest written notice which we have of it is in a 
charter of the Abbey of Holyrood, granted by David L, where it 
is called " Inverleith," that is, " the mouth of the Water of Leith." 
In the year 1329 the city of Edinburgh obtained, by charter from 
Robert I. a grant of the port and mills of Leith, with their ap* 
purtenances* In 1398, Sir Robert Logan of Restalrig, by charter 
granted to the burgesses and community of Edinburgh, ri^ht to 
roads and quays on his lands close to Leith, with the liberty of 
breaking up his ground for the service of navigation, and of build- 
ing shops and granaries. In 1413, certain other rights were granted 
by the same person. James I. by charter dated 1454, granted to 
Edinburgh ** the haven-silver, customs, and duty of ships, vessels, 
and merchandise coming to the road and harbour of Leith.'' James 
III. bestowed similar privileges; and James IV., in 1510, granted 
right to the new port of Newhaven, lately made by him, as also a 
charter conGrming those given by Logan of Restalrig. There are 
also subsequent charters by Mary and by James VI., — all which 
were confirmed by a new charter in 1603, and more lately by a 
charter of Charles I. in 1636. 

Thus we find that the port and burgh of Leith, with its reve- 
nues, became at an early period an appendage to the city of Edin* 
burgh. But though near neighbours, and having in many respects 
a common interest, we yet fiiMi that at a very early period jea- 
lousies existed between the inhabitants of Leith and Edinburgh ; — 

• Drawn up by W. R. 



LBITH. 76I 

and these continued to foment and increase down to the time of 
their 6nal separation by the act of Parliament of 1838. Thus, 
in 1650, the merchants, traders, and inhabitants of the town of 
Leith sent a petition to the Protector Oliver Cromwell, '^ setting 
(urth that the sad condition and most grivous opressions they lay 
under from the magistrates of Edinburgh forced them to apply to 
his Highness for redress ; that they having formerly chosen their 
own magistrates once a-year, and by them ordered their own af- 
fairs, were then denied that liberty by the magistrates of Edin- 
burgh, (whose malice was so great to the interests of the English 
nation) ; that they not only imposed rulers over them, but also laid 
what arbitrary and ' unlimited taxes they pleased upon their lands 
and houses' — exacted a merk Scots upon every ton of their goods 
imported — laid high imposition upon anchorage, shore-dues/' &c«, 
with a long list of other exactions and petty and vexatious griev- 
ances.* The Protector referred these grievances to the conside- 
ration of General Monk, and any two judges of Scotland that 
be might summon to his assistance. Answers were given in by 
the town-council of Edinburgh, denying the grievances complain- 
ed of, and asserting their rights of superiority; and nothing more 
seems to have come of the remonstrance. 

Leith appears early to have enjoyed a considerable trade, but 
its prosperity frequently suffered checks during the wars with Eng* 
land. In the invasion of the English fleet in 1541, the town was 
set 6re to, and almost entirely destroyed. In 1549 it was taken 
possession of by the French troops sent to the assistance of Marv 
of Guise; and in 1560 was besieged by the English forces who 
were sent by Elizabeth to assist the army of the reformation. — 
During this period the Queen-mother took up her residence 
in Leith, and was followed thither by many of the bishops and 
persons of her party. She signified her intention of granting the 
burgh an independent charter, with magistrates for its exclusive 
government; but her death soon after occurred, and put a stop to 
those fondiy cherished expectations of the inhabitants. 

Cromwell repaired Leith Port, which had been previously de- 
molished, and erected a citadel, with five bastions. This citadel 
was again demolished at the restoration, and the site bestowed 
on the Duke of Lauderdale, from whom the city of Edinburgh 
repurchased it for the sum of L.6000. The present fort now 

* Excerpts froin " Writs relating to the great struggle and contest between the 
town of Edinburgh and Leith anent the superiority of Leith, before Otliver Cromwell 
and his council.^ 



764 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

on this association. Hitherto it had been for charitable purposes 
only, but now they were authorised to examine and license ^' pilots 
for the better and more safely piloting and navigating the ships of 
His Majesty," and his liege subjects, in, through, and along the 
adjoining seas, friths, and coasts. While the shipmasters alone 
possess the power of regulating the affairs of the corporation, and 
of licensing pilots, — mates and sailors are deemed to have a right 
to certain benefits upon paying entry money. The corporation, 
therefore, consists of three classes: shipmasters, mates, and sail* 
ors, all of whom, as well as their wives, widows, and children, are 
entitled to pecuniary aid. These payments are now calculated 
according to the most approved principles of the assurance com- 
panies. 

In 1820, the Corporation obtained a statute confirming and addl- 
ing to their former regulations. The primage or prime gilt* con- 
sists of one penny per ton of all goods, foreign or coastwise, im- 
ported into Leith, whether in British or foreign vessels. The 
fees chargeable for licensing pilots were fixed by a bye-law, and 
consist of one guinea for granting license, with 7s. for fees to 
clerk, and one guinea annually for its continuance. 

The old building appears to have been erected in the year 1555, 
as is shown from an inscription on a tablet still preserved in the 
new building to this effect, ^* In tlte name of the Lord ve masteris 
and mareineris bylis this hoos to the pour 1555.'' A new building 
in the Grecian style was erected in 1817, at an expense of 
L.2500, 

The valued property of the corporation amounts to L. 17,76 1 • 
The revenue derived from the prime gilt was, in 1833, L.756; 
but it varies with the state of trade. The total annual income 
for ISaS was L.2159, and the expenditure L. 2335. 

Traffickers or Merchant Company. — This corporation originally 
possessed a charter conferring upon it exclusive privileges; but the 
charter having been lost, they have never been able to enforce those 
privileges, so that they are merely a Benefit Society without the 
power of compelling entries. Formerly, all members of the Cor* 
poration of trades were excluded, but this bye-law was abrogated 
in 1634. Members are admitted by ballot, and thus there is the 
power of exclusion without cause assigned. The valued property 
of the Association is L.7000 in houses, besides seats in the church. 
The funds are chiefly expended in pensions to widows, granted on 
petition to those with incomes under L.100. The annuity is L.20. 



LEITH. 765 

The iDCome for 1883 was L.707, the expenditure L.577. The 
number of members is 100, of whom 83 are resident, among whom 
those living in Edinburgh are included. 

Maltmen. — The earliest notice of this corporation occurs in a 
statute of 1503^ c. 93. About 1699 the corporation was suppressed, 
but restored again to its former privileges in 1684. The persons 
admissible are, maltsters, brewers, vinegar<>maker8, merchants, and 
medical men, but lawyers are expressly excluded. The entry 
money is Lb20, with an annual payment of L.I. Amount of in* 
come in 1833, L.187. Tbe allowance to widows is L. 7, 10s. a- 
year. Average number of members 25. 

Incorporated Trades. — Independent of any of the particular 
trades there is a body called ^^ -the Convenery," constituted by de- 
legates from each trade, which consists of nineteen members made 
up of the deacons and treasurers of the trades' corporations. Mi- 
nutes of this body are extant from 1594, but the date of its origin 
is unknown. In 1832 it was dissolved, whether legally or not is 
quesjtionable, and the funds divided among the other bodies. 
Since the dissolution, its powers have been entrusted to aggregate 
meetings of the trades. The incorporated trades have the same 
rights of patronage and election as the other three corporations. 
There are nine corporations, viz. the Wrights, Coopers, Hammer- 
men, Bakers, Tailors, Cordiners, Fieshers, Barbers, and Weavers. 
The entry monies to these trades vary from the lowest, (the 
Weavers,) being L.1 to strangers, and 10s. to apprentices, &c up 
to L.30, L.60, and L.1 00. 

Magiitralei* — These consist of a Provost, who is also Admh'al, 
and four Bailies, with a Council and Town-Clerk. The Bailies hold 
eourts for the decision of petty offences. There is also a Sheriff 
court, presided over by the Sheriff-Substitute^ By the Act of 
1838, (1 and 2 Victoria,) separating tbe town of Leithfron^ Edin- 
burgh, the common good of the burgh of Leith, with all customs, 
rates, imposts, and market dues, together with the jail buildings, 
are transferred to and vested in the provost and magistrates of 
Leith. 

Police. — In the 11th George III. an act was passed for lighting 
and cleaning Leith, and for supplying it with water, and in 1827 
similar provisions were made in the Municipal Act. The police 
commissioners consist of the magistrates of Edinburgh and Leith, 
the masters of the corporations, and certain others ex officio^ and 
of representatives ch6sen by the corporations, and by proprietors 

EDINBURGH. 3 C 



766 



EDINBURGHSHIRE. 



and occupants whose rents amount to L.i5. The assessment im- 
posed is not to exceed Is. 6d. per pound. Letth is supplied with 
water by the Edinburgh Water Company ; and a Gas Companyy 
established several years ago, is now conjoined with a company in 
Edinburgh) under the title of the Edinburgh and Leith Gas Light 
Company. 

Antiquities. — Any former vestiges of antiquities of Leith are 
now fast disappearing. St Nicholases Chapel is s^iid to have stood 
on the site on which the citadel was afterwards built. 

King James's Hospital was situated on the east side of the 
Kirkgate, at the south-west corner of the church-yard. It was 
founded by the session of South Leith in 1614, and endowed with 
certain lands and tenements of an older hospital of St Anthony. 

The hospital pf the Knights Templars, or the " King's Work," 
was situated at the south-east corner of- St Anthony's Wynd. It 
was greatlydemolished by the English in 1548, but rebuilt in 1647. 

A ** Burst!** or Exchange for the meetings of merchants was in- 
stituted during the time of Mary of Lorraine's residence in Leith, 
and a wynd or locality near the shore still bears this name. The 
Timber Bush is evidently a corruption of Timber Bourse or wood 
market. 

An ancient Roman road is reported to have led through the 
Weigh-house Wynd, from thence across the Water of Leith by 
Cramond, onwards to Queensferry and Stirling. 

Pubhe Buildings. — The Jail. — The old Tolbooth was situated 
at the lower end of the Tolbooth Wynd, and was "built in 1565. 
In f 825 a new and more commodious jail was erected in the same 
place. 

Town Hall. — This building was erected in 1828 in Constitu* 
tion Street, for the accommodation of the Burgh and Sheriff 
Courts. 

Rtyyal Exchange Buildings. — A large Grecian building, three 
stories high, stands at the east end of Bernard Street It con- 
tains a spacious reading room for the accommodation of mercan- 
tile men, a hotel, assembly rooms, sale rooms, and library. It 
was erected at an expense of L. 16,000. 

New Markets. — These were erected in the year 1 818 on a piece 
of ground which was the site of the old Custom House. The 
funds were raised partly by voluntary subscription, and partly by 
a loan of L2000 from the Merchant Company of Leith. 

Seafield Baths. — These ba^hs are situated at the eastern exire* 



LBITH. 767 

mit]^ of the Links, and were erected in the year 1813. A sum of 
LteSOOO was raised in shares of L.50 for this purpose, each share* 
holder, or a member of his family, having a perpetual right to the 
use of the baths. The building is handsome and on a large scale, 
containing seventeen hot, cold, and tepid baths on the lower floors, 
besides a large plunge bath. The remainder of the building is 
occupied as a hotel and lodgings, for the accommodation of visi- 
tors to the baths. 

Harbour and Docks, — The harbour of Leith is situated at the 
mouth of the Water of Leith, where that river joins the sea. By 
virtue of a charter dated the 15th March 1603, commonly called 
the Golden Charter, as well as by various prior grants and acts of 
Parliament, the magistrates and council of the city of Edinburgh 
acquired right to the ports and harbour of Leith and Newhaven. 
These grants were farther ratified by the statute of 16t^l, and a 
royal charter dated 1636. The district comprehended in these 
grants extended from Wardie Burn on the west, to Seafield toll- 
bar on the east, including the whole shore, beach, sands, and links 
within these boundaries. 

In course of time, as the trade of Leith increased, great incon* 
venience was experienced from the deficient state of the harbour 
and the want of docks, where vessels might lie afloat at all times. 
Accordingly, in the year 1788, the magistrates and council of 
Edinburgh applied to Parliament, and obtained an act authorising 
them to borrow L.30,000 for the purpose of constructing a dock, 
and for opening up the streets in the vicinity. Several other sub- 
sequent acts were obtained, as well as extended powers of borrow- 
ing additional sums of money. 

In 1800, the easteyi wet-dock next the tide-harbour of Leith 
was commenced, and finished in about six years; and in 1810 
the middle dock was begun, and completed in 1817. Each of 
these docks is 250 yards in length, and 100 yards broad, — both 
extending to upwards of ten English acres of water, and affording 
space sufficient to contain 150 ships of ordinary dimensions, such 
as usually frequent the port. To the north of the two wet-docks 
are three dry or graving-docks, each 186 feet long, and 45 feet 
wide at the bottom, while they increase in area at the top. The 
width of the entrance is 36 feet The whole are constructed of 
the best and most durable materials. *^ In the report presented 
to the House of Commons bv the select committee in 1819, it is 
stated that the two wet* docks cost about. 1^.175,086, the three 



768 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

graviog-docks L. IS, 198, the drawbridges L.1 1,281, and the areas 
for the sites of the docks and warehouses L.80,543, — amouDting 
to L.285,108^ exclusive of L.8000 for constructing the upper 
drawbridge over the Water of Leith, in the line of the new street 
leading from the foot of the Tolbooth Wynd to the centre of the 
6rst wet- dock." 

The city of Edinburgh by its charters possessed the whole of 
the shore dues levied at the ports of Leith and Newhaven, with 
the exception of the merk per ton^ the proceeds of which were 
appropriated to the payment of the clergy of Edinburgh. 
The sums advanced by Government towards the construction of 
the docks and harbour are as follow : The first loan took place 
in IdOO, when L.25,000 were advanced. The next advance was 
in 1 805, when a second sum of L.25,QD0 was lent at five per cent 
interest. Subsequent to this loan, the first sum of L.2£,000 was 
paid up. During the next twenty years, the authorities of the 
city of Edinburgh had^ under various acts of Parliament, borrowed 
L.240,000 for the purposes of the docks, beyond the L.25,000 
which they owed to Government. By an act dated 1826, (6 
Geo. IV. c. 103,) the Treasury was authorised to make a farther 
advance of L.240,006 out of the Consolidated Fund, to enable 
the authorities of the city of Edinburgh to take up the bonds 
which they had issued. This advance was made at the rate of 
five per cent, of which three per cent was to be the rate of inte* 
rest, and two per cent wfts to go to a sinking fund. By one of 
the clauses, however, of the same act, this annual payment was 
reduced to the rate of four per cent for twelve years, in considera- 
tion of an agreement entered into by the corporation with the 
Commissioners of the Navy to extend the eastern pier, and im- 
prove the works therewith connected* The security given to Go* 
vernment was a preferable claim over the whole of the dock and 
harbour property, and a concurrent claim with other creditors over 
the entire property of the city of Edinburgh. Other stipulations 
were connected with this transaction, by which a part of the 
docks and shore ground was ceded to the Admiralty. 

In 1833, when the city of Edinburgh became insolvent, the 
operation of the sinking fund had cleared off L.2fi,000 of the ad<p 
vanced sums, so that the debt then due to Government amounted 
to L.240,000. After various and protracted negotiations with the 
Governmentand city creditors, an agreement was atlastcometo,and 
an act of Parliament (proceeding on Reports of Select Committee 



LEITH. 769 

of the House of Commons) was obtained in 1838. In this act the 
management of the Leith Docks and Harbour was committed to 
eleven commissioners, five appointed by the Lords of the Trea- 
sury, three by the city of Edinburgh, and three by the town of 
Leith. The interest on the Government debt was postponed. 
A sum of L. 7680 yearly was to be preferably secured to the city 
of Edinburgh, for the following purposes : first, L. 2000 was to 
be appropriated to the payment of stipends of the Edinburgh 
clergy in lieu of the merk per ton which was to be abolished; 
secondly, L. 3180 were to be paid for behoof of the city creditors, 
and the remaining L. 2500 were for '^ the maintenance and sup- 
port of the college and schools of the said city/' 

Powers were also granted to the commissioners (with the con- 
sent and approbation of the treasury) to borrow additional sums 
on the security of the docks, not, however, to exceed L. 125,000, 
to be expended on the improvement, alteration, or enlargement of 
the harbour and docks, or for the accommodation of the shipping 
resorting to the same. It is enacted also, ^* that it shall be law- 
ful to the said commissioners to abolish, reduce, equalize, and 
consolidate the rates and duties leviable at the said harbour and 
docks, so as to render the same more equal and just'' 

Any surplus revenue that may occur after the payment of the 
sums stated, and payment of interest of any money that may be 
afterwards borrowed by the commissioners, is to be paid into Her 
Majesty's treasury, and to be reckoned as so much towards the 
extinction of the principal debt to Government. 

Since that period, under the direction of the commissioners, 
the east pier has been considerably extended, and the harbour 
deepened by dredging. 



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LEITH. * 771 

II. — Population. 
Tbe population of the different parishes in 1841 was as follows : 



North Leith, 8492. 


South Keith. 19,776 


ropulation in 180], 


15,272 


1821, 


26,000 


1831, 


25.856 


1841, 


26,026 



III. — Industry. 

Manufbctures. — Messrs Gillon and Company's establishment 
for the preservation of all kinds of fresh meat and vegetables for 
oaval stores^ &c was commenced in 1838. The principle of this 
manufactory consists jn cooking and enclosing in air-tight tin cases 
all sorts of soups, flesh and fish, and vegetable substances, and 
carefully e&cluding all contact with atmospheric air. In this way 
the various meats keep in all climates for many years, and afford a 
most convenient supply of provisions for travellers and voyagers. 
Milk, cream, gravies, and jellies for invalids are also included in 
^hese ingenious processes. The tin cases used in the process are 
manufactured within the establishment. They are of various sizes, 
containing from half a pound to several pounds weight ; and from 
800 to 1000 of these cases are prepared and filled daily. The 
prices of the various articles, considering that the meat is free of 
all bones, and many of the dishes highly concentrated, are not 
much above the ordinary values of their respective substances. 
The demand for these articles, both for home and foreign con« 
sumpt, is always more than even this extensive establishment can 
well accomplish. Some of the rejected oily matters of the cooking 
process are sold for greasing machinery ; and other substances are 
purchased at a moderate price by the poor in the neighbourhood. 

An establishment for the refining of sugar upon an extensive 
scale contributes in some degree to the prosperity of the town. It 
gives employment directly to upwards of eighty persons, consumes 
annually nearly 4000 tons of coals, which are chiefly sea-borne, 
and previously to the late reduction of the sugar duties, paid to 
the revenue from L.80,000 to L.90,000 per annum in duties ou 
sugar alone. 

The North British Paint and Colour work was cooHnenced 
about twelve years ago, where all kinds of paints, colours, and 
copal varnishes are manufactured to a large extent, giving employ- 
ment to a greater number of hands than any similar establishment 
in Great Britain, including various professions of trades, such as 
coopers, tinsmiths, blacksmthis, joiners, &c. The proprietor, 



772 EDINBURGHSHIRE* 

within these three years, has added large works for the maDU&cture 
of prussiate of potash, which confers a great benefit upon the poor 
in the surrounding districts, who collect animal matter, such as 
hoofs, horns, rags, &c. and who find a ready sale for the same at 
the manufactory. The residue from the manufacturiog of this 
article has been proved to be a most valuable manure, of which 
several hundreds of tons are annually disposed of to the farmers in 
the neighbourhood* There are upwards of 2000 tons of coals 
consumed annually in the work». 

In addition to the above named, the spirited proprietor is now 
erecting works for the manufacturing of ultramarine blue, which 
has never yet been manufactured in Scotland, the art having 
hitherto been chiefly confined to, and the trade principally sup- 
plied from, the continent, where it has been carried on under letters 
patent; and a similar protection, we understand, it is the inteotioD 
of the proprietor to adopt. 

miller and Arthur, Shore, Timber Bush and Little Carron, 
manufacturers and exporters of colours, paints, and varnishes, re* 
gners of animal and vegetable oils, and manufacturers of macbin* 
ery, railway, colliery, and waggon grease, employ about seventy 
hands, men, women, and boys. 

The glass manufactories of Leith consist of seven cones, 
which are capable of being used for all kinds of glass. At present, 
the manufacture of bottles only is carried on, employing from 
80 to 90 work-people ; but it is hoped, now that the excise duty 
has been repealed and all fiscal restrictions removed, that the 
other branches of glass manufacture, viz. plate-glass, window^ 
glass, and crystal, will be immediately resumed, and thai these 
old and celebrated works will again present the enlivening bustle 
and stir of former days, when every cone was in operatioa. 
One of the cones is very old, having been built after the Rs- 
bellion in 1745 by the soldiers stationed in Edinburgh Castle, it 
being impossible then, from the state of the times, to obtain aoy 
brick-builders throughout the country. Bottles of large magni- 
tude have been made at these works ; and it is a matter of ht^ 
that at one time there was blown by a workman there, a bottle 
equal to the size of fully more that a hogshead. 

There are several cast-iron founderies connected with Leith aod 
Edinburgh, saw»mills on the Water of Leith, soap and candk 
works, rope-works, sail-cloth manufactories, and' ship-building* 



LBITH. 



778 



An extensive distillery is in operation at Bonnington, and brew- 
eries in Leith and vicinity. 

JVade and Ccimm^ce.— Both the home and foreign trade of the 
port are on an extensive scale. The foreign trade is carried on 
with Russia, Hamburgh, Holland, Denmark, and Sweden, as also 
with various parts of the Mediterranean, America, East and West 
Indies, New Holland, and China. Formerly, a considerable ton- 
nage of shipping ^as engaged in the Greenland whale trade, but 
of late this has greatly fallen off. A comparative view of the 
progress of trade during the last century is exhibited by the fol- 
lowing list of the shipping belonging to and engaged in the com- 
merce of Leith. 



Year. 


No. of Vessels. 


Tonnage. 


1692 


29 


1702 


1740 


47 


2628 


1752 


68 


6935 



In 1784 the trade of Leith was estimated at half a million 
Sterling. In 1701 the registered tonnage was 130,000 tons. In 
1804 the number of vessels of different descriptions which arrived 
in Leith was 2652, being nearly double the number of 1787. In 
1830 the gross receipts of the custom duty amounted to L.444,41 1. 
For the year 1834 the statistics of the foreign and coasting trade 
stand thus : — 

Inwards. 



British, 
Foreign, 


Ships. 
191 
143 

344 


Tons. 
* 30312 
15221 


Men. 
1685 

874 


Total, 


45533 


2559 




Ouiwards. 




British, 
Foreign, 


144 
59 

203 


26701 
6697 


1376 
382 


Total, 


33398 


1758 




Coast Trade. 




Inwards, 
Outwards, 


3484 
1782 


253649 
175831 


15084 
10762 



ToUU 5266 429480 25846 

In 1844 the number of ships belonging to Leith was 210 ; the 
aggregate tonnage of which amounted to 25,427 tons. The num- 
ber of arrivals coastwise for the same year was 2,272, of which 381 
were steam-boats. 



774 



EDINBUBGHSHIRE. 



The foreign arrivals for the last three years are as follow : — - 



Year. 


Brideb. 


Foreign. 


Total. 


1842 


279 


269 


548 


1843 


294 


348 


642 


1844 


256 


488 


744 



The Custom House is a large building adjoining the docks, and 
vras erected in 1612. It consists of an establishment of 106 offi- 
cers, the aggregate salaries amounting to L. 9390. The rere- 
nues of this office amounted in 1843 to L.569,684 Sterling; iD 
1 844 to L.628,007. 

Foreign grain imported in 1843 for the year ending 5th Janu- 
ary ] 844, and amount of duties respectively on each description 
at the successive rates of duty. 







• 




Qrs. 


Bush. 






Wheat, foreign, at 


20s. 


989 


•*. 


L.988 18 8 








18s. 


1 


I. 


1 5 








15s. 


13199 


5 


9897 2 10 








148. 


91343 


4 


63989 11 








17s. 


4129 


2 


3509 17 3 






* 


198. 


227 


6 


216 7 3 




Sariejr, do. 


at 


98. 


7592 


3 


3416 12 2 








8s. 


107 


3 


37 11 








7s. 


1285 


.. • 


448 4 9 




• 




6«i. 


13740 


4 


4122 3 




Pease, do. 


at 


lis. 6d. 


316 


3 


181 18 5 








IDs 6d. 


369 


6 


192 11 3 








98. 6d. 


1337 


5 


635 7 10 








88. 6d. 


3652 


2 


1552 4 6 




Beans, do. 


at 


lis. 6d. 


20 


• • ■ 


11 10 








10s. 6d. 


668 


6 


351 1 11 




Rye, do* 


at 


Es. 6d. 


15 


6 


6 13 11 




Oats, - do. 


at 


86. 


181 


1 


72 9 








66. 


172 


3 


51 14 3 


. 


Wheat of the British Possessions at 


OS. 


176 


.*■ 


44 








48. 


7 


7 


1 11 4 








Is. 


10 


1 


10 1 




The same in 1844 for the 


year ending 5th 


January 


1845. 










Qrs. 


Bush. 






Wheat, foreign 


, at 


16s. 


1882 


7 


L.1506 6 








178. 


18601 


oj 


15810 18 3 








188. 


9051 


4 


8146 7 








198. 


1749 


6 


1662 5 5 








208. 


5362 


H 


5362 8 2 




Barley, do. 


at . . 


Ss. 


58762 


5 


8812 17 5 








4s. 


16411 


... 


3282 4 






• 


58. 


21685 


6 


5421 9 9 








6s. 


25468 


1 


7640 . 8 9 




H 




78. 


... 


4 


3 6 




Pease, do. 


at (. 


68. 6d. 


15654 


1 


5087 12 11 








7s. 6d. 


774 


1 


290 6 


• 






88. 6d. 


576 


4 


245 3 








9s. 6d. 


187 


7 


65 9 10 








10s. 6d. 


4134 


1 


2170 8 9 




Beans, do. 


at 


58. 6d. 

4 


4736 


■ 


1302 8 1 



LEITH. 775 











Qre. 


BuiBh. 






Beans, foreign, at 




• 


lOs. 6d. 


992 


1 


L.520 17 


4 








11b. 6d. 


28 


1 


16 3 


5 


Odtfl, do. at 


• 




68. 


2357 


2 


707 3 


6 








8s. 


79 


7 


31 19 





Rye, do. at . 




• 


58. 6d. 


3647 


6 


1002 12 


9 


Buck wbeat, do. at 


• 




36. 


66! 


•*• 


99 3 











4s. 


48 


04 


9 12 


3 








Cwts. 


qre. 


lbs. 






Wheat flour, foreign at 


• 


5s. 


lOid. 5 





6 


1 9 


6 






68. 


21d. 2 








12 


5 


Wheat flour, Canadian, 


at 


* 


4id. 2660 


3 


9 


45 15 


2 


Oatmeal, do 


at 


l8. 


2^^ 595 





19 


37 3 


4 



IV. — Parochial Ecokomy — Ecclesiastical State. 

The ancient parish in which Leith is now comprehended was 
Jtestalriff or Lestalric. The parish constituted a baron;; and 
at the earliest period in which it is mentioned, it belonged to the 
family De Lesialric, The parsonage existed at least as far back 
as the demise of Alexander III. In 1291, Adam of St Ed- 
monds was parson of Restalrig; and he had a writ to the sheriff 
of Edinburgh to deliver him bis lands and rights. Whether from 
the beauty of the situation, or from its near vicinity to the Abbey 
of the Holy Rood, the ancient residence of the Scottish Kings, 
James III. founded there one of those colleges or fraternities of 
secular clergy, of which there were many throughout Scotland, 
and several in the neighbourhood, as at Corstorphine, Roslin, and 
Crichton, and Trinity College, Edinburgh. This establishment 
was dedicated to the Holy Trinity and the Virgin, and united with 
the parish church. It included, besides the church, (^ " lodging^' 
for the dean, and ^'chambers" or *^ manses," with ^'yardis and 
lands" for all the prebendaries ; and it was fostered and extended 
by the founder's royal successors, James IV. and James V., till it 
came to consist at last of a dean, eight prebendaries, and two sing- 
ing boys. In the year 1661, according to the rentals given in to 
government, ** the fruites of the Denerie of Restalrig, as it payis 
presentlie and comounlie thir divers yeirs bygane, with the pare* 
chins of Leswaid and Glencorss," were twenty-five chalders eight 
bolls two firlots oats; eight chalders six bolls two firlots bear; two 
ohalders thirteen bolls one firlot wheat ; one chalder three bolls 
two firlots rye ; with L.43, 6s. 8d. Scots money. 

The glebe and manse of said parsonage was given in feu for the 
yearly payment of L.47, 6s. 6d. Scots. 

In 1435, the lands of Restalrig and patronage of the parsonage 
was confirmed to Thomas Logan. From this family the grant of 



776 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

liberty to build a harbour at Leith was obtained by the inhabitants 
of that burgh, and a monastic institution, called the Preceptory of 
St Anthony, was formed in the parish of South Leith, '* south of 
the Water of Leith." The last of the family of Logan was some- 
how implicated in the mysterious affair of the Growrie conspiracy, a 
circumstance which was only discovered after his death. His estates 
were confiscated, and Restal rig passed into the hands of Lord BaU 
merino. Secretary to James VL, with whose descendants it re- 
mained, along with the patronage of the parish church, till both 
^ere forfeited by the treason of the last Lord Balmerino in 1745. 
This noble family had their residence in Leith ; and one of them. 
Lord Couper, was a member of the kirk-session of the parish. 

At the Restoration, the church of Restalrig shared the general 
fate of the Catholic establishments. The first assembly of the 
reformed church, which met in Edinburgh in 1560, ordered it to 
be *^ razed and utterly easten down and destroyed, as a monument 
of idolatry." It was accordingly unroofed, and nothing left 
but the external walls. In this condition it remained for cen- 
turies, till the year 1836, when, by the exertions of a few zea- 
lous individuals, aided by the Church Extension Committee, 
a sum was raised by subscription, and the edifice was com- 
pletely restored and renovated, after a plan gratuitously fur- 
nished by W. Bum, Esq. architect. It now forms a preach- 
ing station, where occasional worship is performed by the mi- 
nisters of Leith, for the benefit of the surrounding population. 
The ancient burying-ground of the parish still remains attached 
to this church, and is kept in good order through the tnatrumen- 
tality of a Society of very ancient institution in the parish, called 
the ** Friendly S<v^iety of Restalrig," wfao^ besides taking the m»> 
nagement of the cemetery, contribute to the relief of the poor of 
the vicinity, and support a school for the education of children. 
It was by the zeal of this society, and the exertions of its secre- 
tary, Andrew Scott, Esq. W. S., that the renovation of the ancient 
church was effected. 

Parish of South Leith. — The precise date of the erection of the 
present church of South Leith cannot be ascertained, bat it is pro- 
bable that it was built about the year 1490. A village had gra« 
dually here sprung up antecedent to this period, the rudiments of 
the future burgh ; and as the principal proportion of the inhabi- 
tants of die parish resided in this quarter, instead of at Easter 
Restalrig, the original position of the parish church, the probable 



LEITH. 777 

lity ia tbat the church at Leith was erected so as at once to trans* 
fer the parish church to this quarter, or at all events to consti- 
tute it a chapel of ease. In a charter of James IIL dated 149D, 
his Mi^esty confirms a charter which one Peter Falconer had 
granted to a chaplain and his successors, for celebrating divine 
worship at the altar of St Peter in the church at Leith, which is 
therein called a " new church," dedicated to the Virgin Mary. 
<< Nova ecclesia BeatcB Maria in Leith" 

In 1556, some time before the Reformation, it evidently appears 
that this church had been constituted the parish church, — for the 
parson had ceased to reside at Easter Restalrig, and had feued 
the gl^be and manse, as well as the church lands belonging to the 
parsonage. 

At the Reformation, the first General Assembly, by an act dated 
1st December 1560, finds, ** that the ministry of the word and sa-^ 
eraments of God and assemblie of the people of the haill parochin 
of Restalrig be within the kirk of Leith." But even previous to 
this, the kirk of Leith was recognised as the proper parochial in« 
stitution; for one of the ministers of that assembly was ^* Mr David 
Lindsay for Leith." The statute of 1609, c 2a, narrates that 
the Legislature, ^^ understanding that the kirk of Restalrig is ruyn«* 
ous, and that the kirk of Leith has bene the place of the conven- 
ing of the parochiners of Restalrig the space of fyftie zeirs past, 
as alsua that it is most comodious pairt, in respect that the toun 
of Leith is the greatest part of the said parochin, whilk kirk not^ 
withstanding has never yet been erectit in ane paroch kirk." The 
act then declares ^^ the said kirk of Leith to be ane paroch kirk, 
and ordains the same to be repute, and called heirafter the paroch 
kirk of Leith, and all the inhabitants of Restalrig to resort thereto 
as unto thair paroch kirk, as they have done in tymes past ; and 
that the benefice of Restalrig, parsonage hairof, gleib and manse 
pertaining hairto, shall be always desponit to the minister serving 
the cure at the said kirk of Leith in all time coming ; and that the 
said kirk of Restalrig be suppressed and extinct from henceforth 
and for ever." 

The central part and middle aisles of the present church, with 
the steeple, appear to have constituted the original erection, while 
the side buildings seem to have been afterwards added. The 
choir at the east end was deipolished at the Reformation. 

It is a collegiate charge. The right of presenting the first mi- 
sister is vested in the Crown ; but the second presentation belongs 



778 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

to the magistrates, the kirk-session» and the cS)r|>oratioDs. A smaU' 
part of the stipend of the second minister was paid by the city of 
Edinburgh, in terms of the act granting two pennies on the pint 
of ale* The residue is paid by the corporations of shipmasters, 
trafiBckers, maltmen, and trades, most of whom received their seals 
of cause " for the weal and uphold of the altar of St John and 
chaplain of the same/' The trades collected a part of their pro- 
portion of the stipend from the meal-dealers, and the tra£Sckers 
used to levy a part of their proportion from all the inhabitants, 
(the meal-dealers excepted,) who were not members of any cor- 
poration. AH of the corporations, except the barbers, have a right 
to parts of the parish church of South Leith, which they let, and 
the rents received are understood by them to be for payment of 
the stipend. No part of the stipend is paid by the corporation of 
barbers. The '* corporations" appear, from an early period of the 
church records, to have taken charge of the repairs and upholding 
of the fabric In times of Popery, each of the trades had their 
altar and chaplain, whom they maintained out of their funds. Tbe 
property and management of the church is vested in the kirk-ses- 
sion. In 1836, it was observed that the steeple was falling from its 
perpendicular, and on inspection by competent architects, it was 
found necessary to take it down. A thorough repair of the whole 
church was also decided upon by the presbytery, which, however, 
was delayed for some time, in consequence of a law plea with tbe 
heritors, who objected to assess themselves for repairs, on the plea 
that the church and its maintenance belonged to the ** incorpora- 
tions." This plea, however, was not sustained. An assessment, 
being the estimated amount of repairs, of L.2870, on the land- 
ward and burgh proprietors, was raised, and with this sum tbe 
church has been completely repaired* The church is capable of 
accommodating from 1300 to 1500 persons. The parish of South 
Leith includes that portion of the burgh to the south of the river, 
with part of Leith Walk and the village of Jock's Lodge. 

St JuhrCs Church was built as a chapel of ease in 1778, and in 
1 834 was erected into a quoad sacra parish. The population of 
both parishes in 1841 amounted to 19,776. 

The stipend of the first charge consists of 250 cwts. of meal; 
143 quarters 6 bushels barley; L.d3, 18s. 4d. money; a glebe, 
yielding L.80, and L.80 in lieu of rnanse. The stipend of tbe 
second charge is L.247 without glebe or manse. 

There is a charitable fund, of which the kirk-session has tbe 



LBITH. 



779 



udministraiion, arising from a grant of certain lands, and the right 
of levying certain duties which appertained to the ^^ hospital/' or 
** mansion of St Anthony.'' The object of the Charity is to give 
relief to the widows and poor of the trades' corporations. 

North Leith Parish.— Vfe first hear of North Leirh in 1493, 
when Robert Ballantyne, Abbot of Holyrood, resolved to build a 
chapel for the accommodation of the increasing inhabitants of this 
district. A church was built at the north end of the bridge across 
the Water of Leith, and dedicated to StNinian, the patron saint 
of Galloway. The charter of foundation was confirmed by James 
IV. in 1498. At the Reformation the inhabitants of North Leith 
purchased the chapel of St Ninian's, the chaplain's house, and the 
tithes of certain lands and houses, and of the fish brought into the 
harbour, as a maintenance for their minister. North Leith was 
erected into a parish by Act of Parliament in 1609. The pa« 
rishioners are the patrons, and the funds and management are 
vested in the kirk-session. The population in 1841 was 8492. 

The stipend was at first 800 merks ; in 1666 it was augmented 
out of St Cuthbert's parish funds, to 1200 merks, with parsonage 
and glebe of four acres. The old church was abandoned and a 
new one erected in 1814. The new edifice is a large building in 
the Grecian style, with a portico and spire, the lattor ornamented 
with several ranges of Doric and Ionic columns, and 158 feet in 
height This church cost L. 12,000, and is capable of accommo'^ 
dating 1 768 persons. 

The stipend arising from feus of property was in lbd2, L.611^ 
17s.; in 1833, L.540, lis. 4d.; in 1834, L.500, 9s. This in- 
cludes an allowance of L.60 for a manse. 

St Thomas' Church is situated on the eminence called Sheriff 
Brae, and was built and» endowed by John Gladstone, Esq. of 
Fasque, a native of Leith. 

There are four congregations connected with the Free Churchy 
viz. St John's, South Leith; Mariners' Church; Newhaven Church; 
North Leith Free Church. 

There are also three chapels belonging to the United Associ- 
ate Synod, one in North Leith and one in Kirkgate, and a third 
in the Links. One Relief Chapel, an Episcopalian Chapel, and 
an Independent. 

Schools.-^ At an early period, a school was endowed with funds 
which came into the possession of the kirk session of South Leith, 
and two masters with salaries were appointed* An old building 



'7^ EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Opposite the Trinity House, called King James's Hospital, 
converted into a school-bouse. This institution with its funds 
seems to have fallen to decay'; for we find that, in ld05, a new 
school -house, called the High School, was built by subscriptioD, 
and placed under the direction of trustees, consisting of the ma- 
gistrates, the ministers, and the heads of the corporations. By a 
clause of the Municipal Bill of 1827, it it enacted, that it shall 
and may be lawful to the commissioners ^* to pay the salaries of 
schoolmasters in the high school of Leith, should the funds per* 
taining to the said school, as applicable to the purposes of the 
said school, be inadequate to such purposes." An application 
having, in the year 1831, been made for a small salary in terms of 
this«clause, it was refused on the ground that there were no funds 
which could be so appropriated. Subsequently, salaries bafe 
been obtained for two of the teachers from Dr Bell's trustees. 
There are in this institution classes for English, the classics^ writ* 
ing and arithmetic, French and drawing. The number of pupils 
has varied from 250 to 150. The fees are, per quarter, clas8icS| 
19s. , English, 7s. 6d. ; writing, 7s. 6d. ; arithmetic, 78. 6d. 

BelTi School — By a deed of Dr Andrew Bell of Madras, exe« 
cuted in the year 1831) the sums of L.4d96 three per cents., aad 
L.4895 bank annuities, were left in trust to the corporation of ma- 
gistrates and masters of Leith, for the erection and maintenance 
of a school or schools on the Madras system in the burgh. Ac* 
cordingly, a piece of ground was purchased, and a handsome and 
commodious school-house was erected in Great Junction Street, 
where about 700 pupils are educated according to the system of 
the founder, and under the superintendence of a teacher appointed 
by the trustees. 

The Poor* — The poor are under the tnanagement of the kirk- 
sessions of North and South Leith. The funds for their relief 
consist of an assessment of Is. Id. on the rentals of land and 
houses, one^half payable by the landlords and one-half by the te- 
nants of houses, together with the church collections and a fev 
other charitable funds. There are no work-houses, and their re- 
lief is all out-door. The allowances to families vary from 4s. to 
9s. and 2s. per week. The children are boarded out at 29. per 
week. 

Charitable InMtitutiom. — There is a society for the Relief of the 
Destitute Sick ; the Humane Society, and Dispensary for the relief 
•f casual disease ; a Female School of Industry, and a Boy's Cha- 



LEITH. 781 

rity School. There are also Sunday schools and Bible and Tract 
societies. 

Libraries^ ^c. — There are two public libraries, a Mechanics* 
Institution, and a Speculative Society. 

Banks, — The Leith Banking Company was established in 1792, 

but it ceased to exist within the last few years. There are branches 

of the Royal and of the Edinburgh and Glasgow Banks ; and the 

Commercial, the National, the British Linen Company, and Bank 

of Scotland have all agencies here. There is also a Savings 

Bank. 
Bestalriff. — The village of Restalrig lies to the south-east of 

Leith, and adjoining to it on the east is the village of Jock's Lodge, 
where there are barracks capable of containing a regiment of ca- 
valry. 

NewKaven.'^This village lies about half a mile west of Leithf 
Fort, and is inhabited chiefly by fishermen who supply the Edin^ 
burgh market with fish, oysters, &C These fishermen, like most 
of those on the east coasts of Scotland, are a peculiar race of 
people, whose habits of life and occupations tend to keep them se- 
parate from the mass of the population. They rarely intermarry 
with other families, and thus they preserve a peculiar caste of 
countenance and physical constitution. This Newhaven colony 
is pre-eminent over others for its sober, industrious, and peace- 
able habits. The women, inured to daily exertion in the open air, 
are robust^ active, and remarkable for their florid, healthy, and re- 
gular features, as also for the neatness and cleanliness of their 
personal appearance. The aspect of the male part of the com- 
munity is less robust, but they are muscular, healthy, and active. 
Here there is a stone pier for the convenience of the fishermen, 
and the steam-boats which ply on the Frith. 

On the rising ground in the vicinity of the village, are nume- 
rous villas with gardens attached. A church was also erected here 
in 1838, and Newhaven converted into a quoad sacra parish. The 
population in 1841 was 2103. 

JVinity Chain Pier. — The grounds of Trinity extend to the 
westward, on which numerous handsome villas have been built. 
An elegant Chain Pier was erected here in 1820 under the direc- 
tion of Captain Brown. The supports of the pier are fixed upon 
wooden piles ; and the depth of the water is, at all times of the 
tide, sufficient to allow ordinary steam-boats to touch at the end 
of the pier, in order to receive passengers. This pier has never, 
however, been extensively used, and it is now greatly superseded 

EDINBURGH. 3 D 



^ I 



782 EDINBUllGHSHIRE.. 

by the harbour at GraDton. It is too narrow to admit of bulky 
goods being carried along it. 

The depth of water at the lowest tides is 6 feet 4 inches ; 
the greatest depth at highest tides 26 feet; the ordinary depth 17 
feet The number of passengers in 1836 was upwards of 120,000. 
The annual-rent for the same year was L.800. 

The terminus of the Edinburgh and Trinity Railroad is oppo- 
site to the chain pier, and a branch of the same is now forming 
onward to Granton harbour. . 

James IV. erected here a yard and dock for ship-building, and 
a harbour for the accommodation of vessels. There was also a 
chapel erected and dedicated to St James, 

In 1510 the Town-Council of Edinburgh, apprehensive that this 
harbour might compete with and injure their port of Leith, pur- 
chased the superiority of it, which they still retain, including a 
right to the oyster scalps in the neighbouring frith. This fishery 
is rented at almost a nominal rent by the Newhaven fishermen. 
A few years ago, the Town- Council attempted to negotiate a more 
profitable lease of these oyster-beds to a London fishmonger ; but 
the adventure proved an unfortunate one to both parties, and a 
source of great annoyance both to the poor fishermen and the du« 
merous oyster eaters of Edinburgh. 

In former times, we read of a rope- work, salt-work, and a glasi 
manufactory, all in operation here, but now there is nothing of the 
kind. Upwards of 800 fishermen and pilots reside at Newhaven. 
Oyster dredging occupies a considerable number during the winter 
months. In summer, several boats' crews repair to the northern 
coasts, to engage in the herring fishing. 

The sea has made great encroachments on the shore east of 
Newhaven. About fifty years ago ** the Links" were so extensive 
as to admit the royal game of golf to be played on them. Now 
the ground has been entirely washed away. 

July 1845. 



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Erratum — Page 609, line 5 from foot,^ 1700 read 1790. 



COUNTY OF EDINBURGH. 



This county, also called Mid« Lothian, is bounded on the north 
by the Frith of Forth ; on the south by parts of the counties of 
Selkirk, Peebles, and Lanark; on the east by Haddington, Ber* 
wick, and Roxburgh ; and on the west by Linlithgow. The me- 
dium length of the county is about twenty- four miles; the breadth 
fifteen. According to the latest computations, its area contains 
354 square miles, or 226,560 English acres, of which only 145,000 
acres are under cultivation. The annual value of real property, 
as assessed in April 1843, amounted to L.1,074,991, 15s. 9d. 
The population in 1831 was 219,345, and in 1841, 225,454. 



INDEX. 



Abercorn, Earl of, improvemeitto by, 397 

Abercromhie, Sir Ralph, 284 

Abemetfay, Sur Laurence, 832 

Academy, Edinburgh, 684 

AdYOcatn, Acuity of, 715— library, 645 

Adam, William, 250 

Adamson, Rev. John, 9 

Agricultioal museum, 683 

Agriculture and Rural economy, 13^ 42, 
52, 59, 70, 94, 122,140, 181, 194,202, 
220, 287, 307, 318, 853, 374, 390, 419, 
443, 504, 539, 550, 573, 599, 608, 612 

Alexander the painter, 697 

AUBon, ProfeflMr, 116 

Allan the painter, 697 

Allan, Jolm, improTements by, 142 

Allermuir hill, 108, 324 

Ahnond water, 134, 135, 357, 434, 435, 
589, 594-Haqueduct, 145 

Anatomical muaeum, Edinbuigh, 682 

Anderson, Dr James, 548 — Samuel, be- 
quest by, 128 

Anne, Duchess of Monmouth, 489 

Antiquarian society, Edinburgh, 688 

Antiquities, 5, 36, 51,67, 90, 119, 187, 
171, 201, 216, 270, 305, 317, 330, 340, 
370, 388, 416, 501, 536, 554, 568, 766 

Apprenticed pillar, Roslin, 347 

Aqueduct, Almond, 145— Slateford, 126 

Archers, Royal company of, 718 

Archery at Musselburgh, 286 

Archibald, Duke of A^le, 387 

AigylelB battery, 652 

Amiston house, 52, 157, 173 

Art Union of Scotland, 706 

Artesian well, Dalkeith, 457 

Arthur, Rev. Alexander, 529 — Rev. John, 
522— Rev. William, 235, 237 

Arthur'te seat hill, 381, 615, 616, 619 

Ashley, history of property ot, 83 

Assembly hall, Eduiburgh, 659 

Association for promoting the fine arts, 
706 

Astronomical society, 688 

Asylum for the blind, Edinburgh, 727 

Aubigny, Lord Dalkeith, 479, 480 

Baads house, 306 

Baberton house, 546 

Backwood water, 362 

Baillie, James, Lord Forrester, 212 — Mrs, 
bequest by, 605 

Balemo, chapel at, 555 — sandstone at,' 
544 



Balmerinoch, Lotd, 598 

Banks, Ac Edinburgh, 751— Dalkeith, 

508— Muaselbuigh, 299 
Bank of Scotland, 761 
Bannatyne, Nicol, 226 
Barclay, Dr, bequest by, 687 
Bamton house, 595 
Barrie, Alexander, 496 
BaanUe, Rev. David, 235, 287 
Baths, Edinburgh, 738 
Bavelaw bum, 545 

Beatman^ acre, tradition regarding, 538 
Beechwood house, 215 
Bell, Andrew, 740 
Bell tree, the, 199 
Bell^ school, Leith, 780 
Bells mains, village oi^ 184 
Bells quarry, village ^ 376 
Bellwood house, 317 
Belmont house, 215 

Ben Johnson at Hawthomden, 326, 331 
Bents house, 306 
Berrie, John, Esq. 496 
Bison, attempt to naturalise the, 455 
Black, Rev. Mr, 631 
Blackfiiars* monastery, 656 
Blackhau^h, ruins of casUe at, 41 8 
Black sprmgs, Currie, 545 
Blackup Scaurs hill, 49, 198 
Blair'b bursary, 678 
Bleachfield, Roslin, 354 
Blind, asylum for the, 727 
Blue Blanket, the, 623 
Board for encouragement of fisheries, &c. 

699 
Bogle^ hole, 282 

Bonally ponds, 109->house, 114, 120 
Bone dust, manufacture of, 292 
Bonnington house, 92— history of proper- 
' ty, 83— >mineral spring at, 621 
Bonnyrigg, village of, 609 
Borough muir, the, 7, 624 
Borthwick, fiimily oj^ 162, 164— the first 

Lord, 163— James, of Stow, 416 
Borthwick, parish of, 150 — oistle, ruins 

and history of, 156, 171— ^:burch, ruins 

o^ 172 — hill, Dmidical remains on, 

202— viUage, 185 
Botanic sardens, Edinburgh, 691 
BotaniciJ society, 693 
Botany, 32, 50, 67, 80, HI, 135, 157, 

199, 207, 252, 305, 313, 360, 384,406, 

437, 452, 561, 590, eZl 



786 



EDINBURQHSHIBE. 



BothweU, Lord, 166, 267, 279 

Bottle works, Leith, 772 

Bow castle, ruins of, 418 

Bowbeat hill, 49 

Bowhrnd house, 417 

Braehead house, 597 

Braid bum, 109->hills, 615 

Brand, John, of Baberton, 548 

Brauss, Peter, 109 

Breweries, Edinburgh, 743, 744 — Mussel- 
burgh, 292 

Brewery, village of, 184 

Brickfield, Dalkeith, 501 

Bridewell, Edinburgh, 720 

Bridgend, village (^ 510 

Briti^ Linen Company^ bank, 753 

Brotherston, Mr, 35 

Brown, Rev, Thomas, 528 

Bruce, relics o^ 331 —Dr, bequest by, 300 
—Sir William, 653 

Brunstane bum, 382--C88tle, ruins ol^ 36 
—house, 11 

Bryoe, Rev.A]exander, 440 — Dr JameB,t&. 

Bttccleuch, history of &mily of, 484 

Buchanan, Rev. Robert, 527 

BunkerVihill, 616, 619 

Burdiehouse bum, 109— limeworks and 
qiuirry, 220 

Burleigh Lord, tradition regarding, 278 

Bums* monument, 655 

Burnet, John, the engraver, 284 

Bumhouse house, 417 

Bursaries, Edinburgh University, 677 

Bush house, 317 

Buteland, property, &c. ol^ 547, 549 

Byrehope bum, 404 

Cadon water, 404 

Caerketan hill, 108 

Cairn hills, 356 

Caimcross, Robert, 226 

Cairns castle, ruins of, 370 

Cairns in Borthwick, 173— Colinton, 119 
— Liberton, 5— Midcalder, 373 

Caitha, village of, 422 

Cakemoor, remarkable plane tree at, 192 
—house, ruins o^ 198 

Calder house, 357, 361, 371— East, vil- 
lage o^ 435, 445— Mid, parish of, 356 
—and village, 357 — Wert, parish of, 
304 

Calderhall house, 442 

Calderwood, Sir William, 493— Dr Ro- 
bert, 495^Rev. William, 520 

Caldstane slap, the, 357 

Caledonian Horticultural Sodety, 692 

Callender, William Bum, Esq. 196 

Calton hill, 616, 617, 654 

Cammo house, 597 

Campbell, Rev. Hugh, 520 

Campend of Newton, the, 569 

Camps, ancient, in Olencross, 317— in 
Heriot, 201— on Kaimes hill, 91— «n 
PlaU hill, 90 

Camus stone, the, 119 

Canal, the Union, 78, 98, 126, 145 



Canongate, the, 661— charity work-house, 
746— church, 663— tolbootb, 720 

Cant, Rev. Andrew, 9 

Carberry hill, 267— house, 278 

Carlowrie garden, 1 36 

Carlyle, Rev. Dr, 283 

Carmelite monastery, Edinburgh, 658 

Caroline park house, 596 

Carpet manu&ctories, 336, 738 

Carrington, parish of, 6 1 1 — improvemcDti 
onfiLnn,612 

Carstairs, Mr, of Springfield, improve- 
ments by, 42 

Carters* play at Oilmerton, 12 

Castle of Edinburi^, the, 651->-l|iI], 616 

Castlecraig, Roman camp on, 305 

Castle Qreg, Roman camp o^ 371 

Castlelaw, camp at, 317 

Castleton, village of, 184 

Cat stane, the, 138 

Cat^a nick, 619 

Catcune castle, ruins of, 162, 173 

Cotcune mill, village of, 185 

Cattle, see Live Stock 

Cauvin^s hospital, 390, 895 

Caves at Gilmerton, 6— at Hawthoradsn, 
331 

Cedars, remarkable, at Invereak, 253— «t 
Ratho, 80 

Chalmers* hospital, 726 

Chambers, Thomas, 524 

Chambers* Journal, &c. 695 

Chapels, ruins of various, Corstorphiiu^ 
223— Dalkeith, 502— Gilmerton, 23 

Chapelton house, 306 

Character, see Population 

Charles I. 633 

Charles X., residence of, in Currie, 546— 
in Holyrood, 654 

Charles Edward, notices of, US, 386, 490 

CharIie*toweU, 153 

Charteris, Colonel, 281 

Chesterhall house, 194 

Chesterhill, village of, 195 

Chiesley, Rev. John, 285 

Chirmat hill, 160 

Chisholm, Rev. Archibald, 235 

Choir of Dalkeith church, the, 501 

Cholera, ravages of, in Edinbuxjdi, 785--. 
in Inveresk, 249 — ^in Newbridge, 134 

Christianity, introduction o^ 260 

Christie*^ bursary, 678 

Christison, Alexander, 526 

Churches, see Ecclesiasticsd statistics 

Circus Place School, Edinbmgh, 685 

Cistertian convent, Edinburgh, 657 

Clay houses, village of^ 183 

Clearbura, village of, 392 

Clelland, Rev. John, 430 

Clerk, John, of Eldin, 31, 35, 336-Sir 
James, of Penicuik, 34 

Clermiston, property of, 214 

Cleuchmaidstone, ravine o( 547 

Clifton, village of, 139 

Climate and meteorology, 1, 30, ^^ ' '> 



INDEX. 



787 



no, 134, 180, 198, 207,247, 324, 338, 
3^7, 400, 435, 459, 535, 543, 558, 615 

Clive, Loid, 284 

Clock of MuflKlbui^h, the, 273 

Clovenfords, village of, 423 

Coal and collieries, Borthwick, 157, 182 
— Cockpen, 606 ^ Cranston, 192— > 
Crichton, 59— Dalkeith, 455, 500— 
Duddingston, 382— Qihnerton, 18— 
Inveresk, 25U, 251— Kirknewton, 436 
Newbattle, 64— Newton, 559, 574— 
Penicuik, 31— Ratho, 79— Roelin, 339 
West Calder, 304 

Cockbum, Lord, 114, 120 

Cocklaw, ruins of tower at, 547 

Cockham water, 403 

Cockle bum, 590, 592 

Cockpen, parish of, 606 

Coins found in Kirkliston, 138_Mid-Cal- 
der, 371— RoaUn, 352— West-Calder, 
305 

Colinton, pariah of, 107— house, 108, HI, 
119— village, 121 

College of E£nbuigh, see University 

CoUege hill of Roslin, 341 

Coll^;iate church of Corstorphine^ history 
0^224 

Colliers of Newton, character of the, 571 

Collington, Lord, 81 

Coltiy bum, embankments al» 196 

Comiston house, 120 

Commercial bank, the, 753 

Compensation ^nd, the, 31 1 

Copperplate pnnting in Edinburgh, 741 

Corston hill, 435 

Contorphine, parish q£, 205— its ancient 
and modem state, 244— castle, site of, 
217— hiU, 206, 593— house, 215— pro- 
perty and its history, 209— village, 221 

Contorphine, Marion, 243 

Coonty hall, Edinburgh, 717 

Coursing club, Currie, 550 

Court df Justiciary, Edinburgh, 715<— of 
Seanon, 712 

Cousland chapel, ruins o( 192— village, 
f6. 195 

Covenant, signing of the, 634 

Covenanters, defeat of the, at Rullion 
Oreen, 315 

Cowbrae hiU, 155 

Cowden, district of, 500 

Cowden bog burn^ 452 

Craig, Rev. Mr, 544~Sir Thomas, 548 

CiaigCTQok house, 597 

Craigend, Roman camp at, 416 

CraighaU coUiery, 251— village^ 294 

Craigiehall bridge, 593, 601 

Craigleith quarry, 594, 620— fossil trees 
in, 593 

Craiglockhart hill, 108— plantations on, 
] 1 1— ruins of fort on, 1 19— house, 111, 
120 

CraigmiUar castle, ruins of, 6 

Cramond, parish of, 589— house^ 590, 596 



— -ironworks and paper mills, 600,— 
island, 592— viUage, 601 

Cramond Regis house, 596 

Cranston, Rev. Thomas, 9 

Cranston, parish of, 191 

Cranston Dean bridge, 1 95 

Crawley spring, 109, 810, 757 

Creech, Rev. William, 493 

Crichton, parish ol^ 56— castle, its rains 
and history, 57, 58, 156— house, 57 

Cromwell, notices of, 5, 1 12, 1 67, 208, 268, 
385,487,510,635 

Crookston house, 173, 417 

Cross of Edinbuigh, the, 6 

Crosschain hill, 536 

Crosslee, village o^ 423 

Crown room, Edinbuigh castle, 651 

Cullen, Dr, 438, 440— brd, 440 

Cunnigar, mound called, 373 

Cunningham, Mr, of Harelaw, 544 

Ci6rling club, Cunie^ 550 

Currie house, 173, 177— wood, 152, 155, 
177 

Currie, parish of, 542— bridge, 545— vil- 
lage, 543 

CurriehiU castle, 546 

Custom house, Leith, 774 

Cypress grotto, the, 332 

Daihousie bum, 607— castle, &c*t5. 

Dalkeith, parish ot, 451— castle, history 
of^ 466— church, description of, 501— 
palace, gardens, and park, 481, 497^ 
town, hi^oiy, &c., of, 461, 507 

Dalmahoy hill, 77 — house, 92— property, 
83 

Dahneny park, 590, 591 

Dabymple, Sir David, 284— Sir John, 191 

DahEell, Professor, 186 

Damley, murder of, 628 

David I., foundation of Holyrood by, 653, 
660 

Davidson, Rev. John, 5, 9 

Davidsonli mains, village of, 596, 601 

Dawson, John, 550 

Deaf and Dumb institution, Edinbuigh, 
727 

Dean bridge, 619, 646— chapel, 665 

Depot for prisoners, the, 33 

De Preston, Sir Sjrmon, 4 

De Quincy, fiunily of, 200 

D'Eflseli wark, origin of; 277 

Dewar, Mr, of Vogrie, 173, 182 

Dewar hill, 198 

Dewarton, village of; 183 

Diagnostic society, the, 690 

Dialectic society, the, 690 

Dick, Sir Alexander, of Prestoniield, 387 

Dispensaries, Edinbuigh, 731 

Dissenters and Dissenting chapels, 24, 46, 
55, 61, 73, 101, 129, 146, 187, 196,204, 
296, 309, 321, 336, 354, 375, 377, 395, 
425, 449, 515, 540, 555, 579, 605, 610, 
666, 779 
Distilleries, Musselbuigfa, 292— Ratbo, 96 



788 



EDINBURGHSHIRE. 



Docks, ihe Ldth, 767 

Donaldflon^i hospital, 726 

Douglas, Bishop, 201— of Dalkeith, his- 
toiy of the fiunily of, 465— Sir James, 
469 

Draining, 95, 123, 143, 319, 853, 375, 424, 
444, 506, 573 

Dreghom, Lord, 114 

Ih^hom castle, 108, 120 

Druidical remains, Olencross, 317— He- 
riot, 202— Inveresk, 260— Kirkliston, 
138 

Dram house, 11 

Drummond, Bishop, 331 — Thomas, Esq. 
269, 284— Provost, 729— William, the 
poet, 325— &mily of, 326 

Duddingston, parish of, 381— church, 388 
—cottage, 390— house, 389— loch, 382, 
620— yillages, 388, 390, 393 

Dundas of Aniiston, family of, 174— Sir 
James, 170 — President, *6.— Henry, 327 

Dunfermline abhey, connection of with 
Inveresk, 261, 262 

Earthen mound, the, 645 

East Cairn hill, 356 

Bast Calder, village of, 435, 445 

East craigs hill, 406 

Easter Duddingston, village of, 388, 390, 
393 

Eastmill, copper ore found at, 545 

Ecclesiastical stetistics, 22, 45, 53, 60, 73, 
99, 126, 145, 186, 196, 203, 239, 241, 
295, 308, 319, 335, 354, 375, 393, 424, 
446, 512, 540, 553, 576, 604, 609, 613, 
656, 675 

Echlin moor, Roman road at, 590 

Edgebricklm brae, 278 

EdLiburgh, city of^ 614— >its topography, 
ib, — ^geology, 616 — history, 622 — po- 
pulation, 650— public buildings, 651— 
churches, &c 656 — schools, 670-^mu- 
nicipal constitution, 707— revenue, 709 
-^w courts, 712, police, 717-^ho8pi- 
tals, &c 721— poor funds, &c. 743 — 
banks, &c 750--<canalB, railroads, &c 
754— castle, 622, 623, 628, 651 

Edinburghshire, summary of statistics of, 
783 

Edinburgh water company, 756— gas com- 
pany, 758— and Dalkeith railway, 512, 
755— and Glasgow bank, 753— railway, 
98, 755— Leith and Newhaven railway, 
755 — and Leith gas company, 758 

Edmistoun, John, 566 

Edmonstone, Lord, 567 

Edmonstone colliery, 250, 559, 560, 570, 
575^house, 561 — ^property, 563— vil- 
lage, 570, 575 

Education, statistics of, 24, 46, 55, 61, 74, 
102, 130, 146, 188, 196, 204, 241, 297, 
309, 821, 336, 355, 377, 395, 426, 449, 
5^, 541, 555, 580, 605, 610, 613, 670, 
779 

Eldin, Lofd, 81, 85, 827 

E*Liston tower, ruins of^ 138 



Elphinston, Sr James, of Bamton, 598 

Elphinstone house, 279 

Engraving in Edinburgh, 739 

Enterkens yett, the, 547 

Episcopal chapeb, Edinburgh, 666 

Ermit water, 403 

Erskine, Mrs, bequest by, 724 

Esk waters, 30, 31, 49, 68, 154, 174, 246, 

249, 324, 337, 338, 458, 558, 607 
Eskbank house, 496 
Ettrick forest, 407 
Ewes castle, ruins of, 405, 418— water, 

403 
Exchange buildings, Leith, 766 
Exchequer court, the, 715 
Excise office, Edinbuigh, 717 
Faculty of Advocates, 715^of writen to 

the signet, 716 
Fair-mile-h^ad, cairn and remains at, 119 
Fair sisters* tree, 380 
Fairs, see markets 
Fala hall, ruins at, 535— moss, 536->ril- 

kige,539 
Fala and Soutra, united parishes o^ 534 
Fala daip, village o^ 589 
Falside house, 279 
Farm-buildings, 15,71, 96, 124, 143, 195 

203, 318, 391, 422, 507, 573 
Feigusson, Professor, 544 
Fettes, Sir William, 89— bequest by, 72(r 
Figget whins, the, 385 
Fisheries, herring, 289 — salmon and ses, 

t6. — acts for the encouragement oi, 699 
Fisherrow, village o^ 294 — ravages of 

cholera in, 249 — fishermen, 289 
Fishing nets, manu&etoiy of, 291 
Fishwives* Causeway, the, 889 
Flashes, skinnish of, 208 
Fleming, Rev. John, bequest by, 128 
Floods on the Gore burn, 151, 152-in 

1659,511 
Forbes, Sir William, lIS—ProfesBor, ib. 
Ford, village of, 183 
Fordyce, Rev. George, 235, 237, 238,243 
Forewood water, 362 
Forrest, Sir James, 116 
Forrester ofContorphine, family o^209 

—Adam, ib — Sir John, 210— Sir Alex- 
ander, 21 1— Lord, «&.— death of the 

last, 212— Rev. Andrew, 235 
Forth, frith o^ 590, 760 
Fossil remains found in Newbattle, 65— 

at Granton, 593— at Craigleith, 620 
Foulis of Colinton, fiimily of, 1 18 
Fountain hall, village of, 422 
Four mile hill, villt^ of, 222 
Fowlis, Alexander, Esq. 81 
Fraser, Sir Simon, 839 
Free churches^ Edinbuigh, 666— Leith, 

779 
Friendly Insurance Company, the, 753 
Friendly societies, 47, 55, 61, 74, 104, 

131, 147, 197,298, 386, 855, 895,427| 

450, 531, 557, 588 
Froissart, notices of, 467 



INDBX. 



789 



FueU 56, 75, 106, 132, 149, 803, 322, 380, 

397, 429, 450, 533, 610, 759 
Fuahie bridge, villiige of, 184 
Gala water, 199, 398, 399, 400, 403 
Galachlaw hHl, 5 
Games in Gilmerton, 12 
Gardens of Dalkeidi, 499-»in Gilmerton, 

18— of Inveresk, 290— of Monkton 

hall, 282— of StonyhiU, f5. 
Gardeners^ society of Colinton, 125 
Gas companies, Edinburgh, 758— works, 

Musselburgh, 303 
Gaviside house, 306 
Geddes, Jenny, 634 
Gentes custom, the, 272 
Geology and mineralogy, 2, 31, 50, 64, 

79, 110, 135, 154, 192, 250, 304, 312, 

324, 339, 358, 382, 404, 435, 455,544, 

559, 592, 606, 616 
George IV. visit of, to Scotland, 491, 640 
George IVth'ft bridge, 646~8tatue, 655 
George Watson^ hospital, 723 
Gibb, flev. Adam, 527 
Gillespie, James, 1 l5«->Rev. Thomas, 387 
Gillespie^s hospital, 725 
Gilmerton, cave at, 6— chapel, 23— col- 

iieries, 18 — lime works, 19 — village, 21 
Gilmour, Sir John, 4, 6 
Gipsies of Borthwick, the, 185 
Girthgate, the, 586 
Glencorse, parish of, 810 — house, 817 — 

water, 311 
Glenorchy, Lady, 599 
Glow worm in Borthwick, 161 
Golfing at Musselburgh, 286 
Gogar bum, 78, 206— camp, 90— pro- 
perty, 209, 213— rectory, 240 —village, 

222 
Gogar bum house, 214 
Go^upark house, 214 
Gogantane, village of, 139 
Gore water, 50, 151 
Gorebridge, village ot, 52, 53, 151 
Grac^noont, 8 
Grahaine, William de, 461— of Dalkeith, 

femUy of, 462— Dr C. W., 495 
Grammar school of Dalkeith, 523 
Grantls bursaries, 678 
Granton pier and its traffic, 601, 603— 

fossil remains found in the quarry, 593, 

601 
Gray, James, Esq. 503 
Greenlaw, prisoners depot at, 317 
Greenside church, 665 — hospital, 658 
Gregory, James, 672 
Gieyfiian^ churches, Edinburgh, 662— 

moiuistery, 656 
Grey, Lord, destraction of Musselburgh 

by, 266 
Grieve, Rev. Harry, 521 
Guildry court oTEdinburgh, 709 
Guillan, Andrew, death (^ 582 
Gunpowder mills, Roslin, 853— Stobs, 53 
Gyle, farm of; 542 
Babbies' How, 31 

BDINBUR6H. 



Hailes, Lord, 284 

Hailes church, 126— house, 127, 283— 

quarry, 124— village, 121 
Haircloth, nianu&ctory of, 121 
Half-meon battery, the, 652 
Halkerston tower, ruins of, 175 
Hallcraighm,436 
Hamilton, Rev. Archibald, 235, 237, 238 

— Jamee, 441— of BothweUhaugh, 315 
Hamilton house, ruins of, 535 
Hanley house, 214 
Handasyde, Messrs, 253 
Harbour, &c. Leith, 767— Musselburgh, 

294 
Harbura house, 306 

Harelaw moor pond, 543— cairns at, 547 
Hartwood house, 306 
Harvieston house, 173, 179 
Harwood house, 306 
Hastie, George, Esq. bequest by, 301 
Hatton house, 92 — ^history of property, 82 
Hawthomdeo, ruins of castle at« 330 — 

house, 331 
Hawtree, Roman camp at, 416 
Heriot, Rev. Alexander, 520 
Heriot, parish o^ 198— house, 202— 

water, 198, 199, 403 
HenoVa bursaries, 678 — ^hospital, 721— 

schools, 685 
Heriot town hill, Druidical remains on, 

202 
Hermand house, 306 
Hermiston, remains at, 547 
Hertford, Lord, ravi^ of, 264, 273 
High constables, society of, 718 
High school of Edinburgh, 688— Leith, 

780 
Highland society, the, 692 
Hill Street insUtution, the, 685 
HiUhead, soil at, 606— house, 608 
Hillhouse house, 442 
History, civU, 3, 33, 50, 57, 67, 81, 1 12, 

186, 162, 193, 199, 252, 805, 314, 324, 

389, 362, 884, 409, 489, 460, 586, 545, 

561,595,607,611,760 
Hog, James Maitland, Esq. 139 
Holly hedges, Liberton, 18— trees^ Borth- 
wick, 157 
Holy mount, 657 
Holyrood abbey, 660— chapel and palace, 

653 
Hope, Dr John, 493— Sir Thomas, 598 
Hope Park chapel, 665 
Hopeton, the Earl of, statue of, 656 
Hop Pringle castle, ruins o^ 417 
Horn, Captain, bequest by, 27, 737 
Horticultural society, Edinburgh, 692 
House of industry, 738— of refuge, 736 
Howgate, village o^ 45 
Howison of Qraehead, 597 
Howliston tower, 417 
Hudsoun, Rev. William, 58 
Humbie quarry, 144 
Hunter, Rev. Robert, 285, 237 
Hunter's bog, 619— crag, 592 



790 



EDINBUROHSH IRE. 



Hnnterian medical society, 690 

Huntly cot faiUs, 49 

HuBbandry, systemBof, 13, 52, 71, 95, 123, 

143, 181, 194, 22U 288, 307, 318, 374, 

391, 42t, 443, 506, 573, 600, 609 
Hutton, Rev. Waiiam, 527 
Hydrography, 30, 49, 78, 108, 134, 151, 

192, 198, 249,310, 324, 388, 357, 382, 

403, 435, 545, 559, 607 
Inch house, 1 1 
Inch Mickery isle, 592 
Infirmary, Edinburgh, 728 
Inglis,ReT. Or, 316 
Inglis green bleachfield, 125 
Innes, Miss, of Stow, 426 
Inns and ale houses, 27, 56, 62, 75, 106, 

132, 149, 189, 197, 802, 322, 355, 396, 

429,450,583,586,610 
Insurance companies, Edinburgh, 753 
Inveresk, parish of, 246— village, t6. 247, 

250 
Ironstone, Oilmerton, Id^West Calder, 

305 
Iron works, Cmmond, 600 
Jackson, James, 33 
Jail, Edinburgh, 719, Leith, 766 
James IV., notices of; 473— V^ 6, 538— 

VI^ 479, 628 
Jamieson the painter, 696 
Jeffrey, Rev. John, 527 
John, Duke of Argyle, 387 
John Watson'k hospital, 725 
Johnston, Dr Robert, bequest by, 737 
Johnstone, Sir Archibald, of Warristob, 

548 
Joppa, Tillage o^ 290, 293 
Juniper green, village of, 121 
Jury court, Edmbnrgh, 714 
Justice of peace court, 717 
Justiciary court, 715 
Kav, John, 495— Mr, bequest by, 396 
Kaim of Newton, 569 
Kaimes hill, 77— camp on, 91 
Keith, A^ Esq., bequest by, 243 
Kelstane,the,119 
Kenldth, camp at, 547 
Kennedy, Rev. Hew, 280 
Kerr, Dr, bequest by, 729 
Key, Rev. Robert, 412 
Kilwinning lodge, 283 
King, Rev. Alexander, 528 
King'ft Inch, 538 
Kingstoun house, 596 
Kinnibuigh, Mr, 728 
Kips hill, 49 

Kirkcaldy of Grange, 628 
Kirkhill, village of, 45 
Kirkliston, parish o^ 183— village, 139 
Kirknewton, parish of, 433— village, 434, 

443 
Kirk of Field, site of, 628 
Kirkyetton hill, 108, 824 
Knighii Hospitallers, the, 364 



Knox, John, 371, 625— Rev. William, 

562 
Kyllochyett, village of, 422 
Lady of Loretto, chapel ^ 270, 272 
Lady'Bwell, the, 409 
Lady Yester'b Church, 663 
Lammermuirs^ the, 154, 534 
Jjmdowners, 4, 35, 51, 57, 67, 89, 115, 

137, 173, 193, 201, 209, 220, 284, 30«, 

316, 330, 340, 369, 387, 416,441, 490, 

548, 563, 595, 607, 61 1 
Langlands^ William, 165 
Las^irade, parish o^ 323— village, 335 
Lawrie Todd, birthpUce ol^ 485 
Laurieston castle, 596 
Law of Lauriston, 596, 599 
liaw courts, Edinbur^, 712 
Lawder, fiunily o^ 82 
Lawdre, AUan de, 82 
Lawfaead hill, 486 
LawyeiB, fees of, in 1685, 432 
Leases, 18, 43, 71, 95, 124, 148, 181, 195, 

203, 318, 391, 422, 507, 573, 609 
Lee, Principal, birthplace od^ 416 
Leighton, Bishop, 67 
Leith, town of, 760 — ^banking oompanj, 

781— water, 108, 206, 858, 434, 435, 

545, 551, 615 
Leith Wynd chapel, 664 
Leithhead water, 858, 545 
Lennox tower, 546 
Leny hill, 591, 593 

Leslie, Qeneial, 208— Sir John, 525, 679 
Liberton, parish o^ I 
Libraries, &c, 26, 47, 55, 61, 74, 101, 

181, 188, 204, 242,298, 336, 355, 379, 

395, 420, 529, 556, 582 
Limefield house, 306 
Limeworks, Burdiehousey dO^j^ilflMrM 

19 
Lindsay, Sir Walter, 365 
linhouse house, 371— 'Water, 358, 434, 

438 
Linn, the, a fall on the Eak, 337 
linnbum house, 442 
Linndeaa cascade, 535 
Liston, Sir Robert, 88, 136 
Listen tower, ruins €ft, 138 
Liston Shields, turn of, 484 
Little Clement, 4 
Little France, village of, 7 
Live stock, breeds oi^ 71, 95, 142, 181. 

199, 288, 307, 318, 891, 41 9, 420, 444, 

505, 540, 573 
Loanhead, village of, 885 
Lochend, 619— memorials of battle •<» 

137 
Lochleven oastle, keys <ji, 84 
Logan of Restalrig, 213— the poet, S84, 

536 
Logan house, 86— water, 30, 311 
Loganbank houae^ 317— -trees at, 313 
Long Dalmahoy , mins of cbapel at, 92 



INDEX. 



701 



Longevity in CnnrM^ 549 

liongfiuigh, Roman eamp at, 58 

Longshank hill, 49 

Loretto, chapel of, 270, 272^hoii8e, 274 

Lothian bridge, 195 

Lotli Wifb, stone called, 201 

Loughborough, Lord, 493 

Luckenbooths, the, 624 

Lugate castle, ruins of, 418— water, 403 

Lugton, barony and Tillage of, 500, 510 

Lumsden, Rer. Charles, 387 

Lunatic asylum, Edinburgh, 732 

Lundie, Rev. James, 520 

Lying-in hospital, Edinburgh, 731 

Lymphoy tower, 54^ 

Macgill of Cranston, family of, 191 — 
Alexander, 227 

Macintosh, Charles, 499 

MacUurin, Colin, 672, 687-— John, 114 

M*Lurg, Sir James, bequest by, 188 

Maconochie, Allan, 441 

Macpherson^ bursary, 678 

M'WiUiam, Dr J. O^ 496 

Magazines, &C. published in Edinbu]|ph, 
694 

Magdalene asylum, 726 

Magistracy of Edinburgh, 707 

Maiden castle, the, 351 

Maison Diea, the, 657 

Maitland, Lord, bequest by, 101 

Majorca Knowe, the, 510 

Malcofan, Rev. David, 387 

Malleny house, 546— -limestone at, 545 

Maltmen, corporation of, Leith, 765 

Mammoth, tusk of the, 135 

Manufactures, 44, 53, 96, 125, 291, 334, 
353, 891, 423, 551, 600, 608, 609, 738» 
771 

Mandentonn, William, 241 

Manuscripts, remarkable, in Newbattle, 68 

Marchfield spa, 594 

Margaret, Queen, 473 

Maijoribanks, Sir J., 873 

Markets and fiun, 45, 53, 97, 149, 244, 
302, 322, 379, 423, 429, 508, 532, 552, 
766 

Mart, the Regent, 478 

Marshall, John, bequest by, 223 

Martyrs* tomb, RuUion, 315 

Mary, Queen, notices of, 7, 84, 166, 198, 
267, 279, 477, 627— of Gueldres, hos- 
pital founded by, 721— of OiHse, 625 

Mary Gibb'S stone, 202 

Maternity hospital, 732 

Mavisbank house, and camp at, 333 

Meadowbank, Lord, 441 

Meadowbank house, 442 

Medical Society, Edmbmgh, 690 

Medico-Chiruigical Society, 689 

Mein, Rev. Dr, 521 

MeMIle, Lord, 171, 327, 493— monu- 
ments to, 327, 655— Rev. John, 564 

Melville, ancient parish of, 323---castle, 
333 



Merchant Company, Edinbui^, 709— 
Leith, 764 

Merchant Maiden Hospital, 724 

Meteorological tables, Dalkeith, 459— In> 
veresk, 248— Stow, 400 

Meteorology, see Climate 

Michelston house, 417 

Mickery isle, 592 

Midcalder, parish of, 356— church, 372 
—village, 357, 375 

Middleton bums, 151 — house, 173, 176— 
village, 184 

Milbum, plantations at, 80«i»tower, 92 

Millerls knowe, the, 619 

Milne, Admiral Sir David, 284 

Mineralogy, see Geology 

Ministers of Borthwick, list of, 187<— Cor- 
storphine, 235-— Cramood, 605 — Dalr- 
keith, 517— Olencross, 320 — Inveiesk, 
296,— Kirkliston, 145— Liberton, 9— 
Midcalder, 3(ra— Newton, 577 — Stow» 
430— Temple, 53 

Minister^' Widows' Fund, the, 668 

Minto House Hospital, 730 

Mitchell, Alexander, bequest by, 581 — 
Joseph, 85 

Moir, D. M. Esq. 285 

Monk, General, 487 

Monkton house, 282 

Monkton hall colliery, 250 

Monmouth, Duchess of, 489 

Monro^ Dr Alexander, 114, 672 

Mons Meg, 652 

Monteith, Rev. Mr, 386 

Montgomery, Rev. Mr, 5 

Montrose, origin (xf the fiimily of, 462 

Monument to Lord Borthwick, 163 

Monuments^ DaUTeith, 516 — Edinburgh^ 
655 

Moodie, Mr, bequest by, 878 

Moorfoot hills, 49, 198 

More, Jacob, 697 

Moredun house, 1 1 

Morrison^ haven, village of, 274 

Morton, history of the Earls of, 441, 472 
—the Regent, 84, 476, 480 

Morton hall, 11 

Mount Hooly, 657 

Mount Lothian church, rains of, 29 

Mount Yemon house, 1 1 

Mowat, Rev. Robert, 54 

Mowbray, Rev. Mr, 235, 554 

Muir house, 596^wood8, 591 

Muirfoot hills, 49, 198 

Muirhouse, Roman Camp at, 416, castl^ 
ruins o^ 417 

Muldren house, 308 

Murieston castle^ ruins of, 370, 371 — wa- 
ter, 357 

Murray, the Regent, death of, 263, 274 

Murray bum, 109 

Museum of Natural History, Edinbnigh» 
681 

Muahet^ Robert, 493— David, 494 



792 



EDINBURGHSHIRE. 



Miuselbuigh, town of, 254 — ^ravages of 
cholera in, 249, — ^its commerce,&c 293 
Mutton hole, village of; 601 
Nainer, Sir Archibald, 596— William, 549 
National bank, 753-- ^monument, 655 
Naughly, Key. Andrew, 412 
Naval and Military acaidemj, 684 
Nelflon'b monument, Edinbmgh, 617»655 
NethereihielB, Roman camp at,. 416 
Newbattle, pariah of, 63^abbey, 68— vil- 
lage, 63 
Newbridge, village of, 134, 139 

New^ Craig^l colliery, 251— village, 294 

New Hailes house 283 

Newhall house, 36 

Newhaven, village and quoad mxera pa- 
riah of, 7B) 

Newhousefl^ village of; 189 

Newlandrigg, vilhige of; 183^ 

Newliflton house, 139 

New Sau^ton house, 597 

Newspapers pubhshed in Edinburgh, 694 

New Street church, Edinburgh, 664 

Newton, Rev. Archibald, 9 

Newton, parish of, 557 — church, ruins of, 
568 

New Town of Edinburgh, the, 644, 647 

Niddry, quarry at, 21 — castle, ruins of, 
1 38-— and church, 7 — house, 11 — ^vil- 
lage, 139 

Night asylum, the, 737 

Nimmo, Mrs, murder of Lord Forrester, 
by, 212 

Nine-mile-bum, village of, 45 

Niven, James, 35 

Normal school, Edinburgh, 686 

North Bridge, building of the, 644 

North British Railway, 756 — paintworks, 
771 

North loch, the^ 644— water, 49 

North Clermiston, property of, 597 

North Esk church, 285— water, 324,337, 
338, 458, 607 

North Letth, parish of, 779 

North Middleton, village of, 185 

Norton house, 92 

Old Craighall, village of, 294 

Old Physic garden, the, 691 

Old town of Edinburgh, the, 647 

Oliver, Rev. James, 236 

Oliver's mounts, 275 

Ormiston hill, 438— house, 442 

Orphan hospital, the, 724 

Ossian'to hall, Penicuik, 37 

Otter, habits, &c. of the, 404, 405 

Our Lady's hospital, 657 

Oxenford castle, 193 

Paintings in Dalkeith palace, 498 

Paper mills, Cramond, 600 — Currie, 551 
—Edinburgh, 738— Lasswade, 334— 
Roslin, 353— Valleyfield, 44 

Park of Dalkeith, the, 497 

Parliament house, Edinburgh, 716 

Parochial regbtem, Colinton, 116 — Cor- 



storphine, 236— Dalkeith, 486— Glen- 
cross, 316— Newton, 562 — ^Ratho, 89 
Paterson, Rev. Niniao, 9— Mr, fishing net 

ihctory of; 292 
Pathhead, village of, 59, 60 

Patton'ft Account of the battle of Pinkie, 
275 

Paul Jones, 640 

Pauperism, see Poor 

Penicuik, parish o^ 29-i-depot fir prison- 
ers, 33— house, 87— villsige^ 38, 45 

Penniwhigate water, 403 

Pentland hills, 30„ 108, 310, 304^ 544— 
battle of the, 315— annexed parish c^ 
323— vilhige, 335 

Petroleum weU, St Catherinels, 5 

Philosophical society of E^nburgb, 687 

Physic garden, the, 691 

Physical society, Eidinburgfa, 69(y 

Physicians, &es o^ in 1685, 433. 

Physicians' Hall, 686 

Pinkie, battle of,. 264— house, 279 

Piper of Peebles, tradition r^gaitJing the,. 
201 

Pirn house, 417 

Pimtaiton, Roman camp at, 416 

Pitcaim, Dr Archibald, 493 

Pitt statue, Edinburgh, 655 

Plague in Edinburgh, 735 

Plantations, 32, 50, 57, 67, 70, 80, 1 11^ 
140, 157, 192, 199,287, 308, 314,361, 
374, 385, 406, 439, 453, 573, 600 

Piatt hill, 77— camp on, 90 

Playfair, ProfiBssor, 672— monument t^ 
655 

Pleasance, origin of name of, 657 

PoUce of Edinburgh, 717— of Leith, 765 

Poll tax, levying of the, 430 

Pollock, Rev. Mr, 387 

Polton, Lord, 493 

Poor, management of the, 26, 47^ 55, 6'^ 
75, 105, 182, 147, 189, 1»7, 204, 24% 
299, 309, 321, 336,379, 3S6, 427,450, 
531, 540, 556, 584, 605, 610, 613, 743» 
780 

Population returns, 1 1, 38, 52, 59, 69, 92, 
120, 139, 179, 194, 202, 285,307,318, 
333, 352, 373, 890, 419, 442, 503,539, 
549, 569, 599, 608, 612, 650, 771 

Port, Rev. Robol, 630 

Porteous mob, the, 638 

Portobello, town of, 390, 392 

Post office, Edinburgh, 750 

Pow bum, 559 

Preston, village of, 195 

Prestonfield house, 390 

Prestonhall house, 1 94 

Prestonholm mill, 608, 609-'rillar» 
609 

Priest hill, 8 

Pringle, George, of Torwoodlee, 413 

Printing in Edinburgh, 696 

Prisons, Dalkeith, 531— Edinbuight 71»- 
Musselburgh, 301 



INDEX. 



793 



Produce, annual, U, 21, 44, 5d, 72, 96, 
144, 195, 203, 290, 891, 422, 506, 575 

Provosts of Corstorphine, the, 226 

Pumpherston castle, ruins of, 370 

Puidie, Rev. WUliam, 10 

Quarries, lime, 19, 59, 64, 182, 192, 358, 
359, 445.-«iiidstone, 21, 64, 96, 124, 
144,192,207,251,859 

Queen% room, Borthwick, 172— Cake- 
moor, 193— seat, 279 

Raebum, Sir Henry, 698 

Raid of Ruthven, the, 630 

Raith of Edmonstone, 567 

Ramsay, Sir Alexander, 331— Allan, 687 
— ProfesBor, 672— R. Wardlaw, Esq., 
61 l—W. R., Esq of Bamton, 585 

Randolph, the Regent, death of, 262, 274 

Ratho, parish of, 76 — barony, 8 1 — house, 
92_village, 97 

Ravelrig hill, Roman camp on, 547— pro- 
perty of, 549 

Ravelston, property of, 215— quarries^ 207 

Red friars, the, 49 

Redhall castle, ruins and history o^ 112 
— Chouse, 111— quarry, 124 

Redhead, ruins of castle at, 41 8 

Regalia, the Scottish, 651 

Regent bridge, the, 646 

Register house, the, 645, 717 

Reid, a covenanter, 186 — Bishop, bequest 
by, 670 — general, bequest by, 676 

Rennie,Snr John, 271 

Rent, rates of, 14, 44, 52, 70, 94, 123, 
142, 181, 195, 203, 220,288, 818, 337, 
374, 890, 420, 444, 504, 539, 550, 573, 
599, 600, 609, 612 

Restalrig, ancient parish of, 775 church, 
657— village, 781 

Reviews published in Edinburgh, 694 

Riccarton house, 545 

Ridel, fiirm of, 191 

Riding of the marches, Inveresk, 268 

Bigg, Hu^, of Carbenry, 278 

Rhind, William, on the geology of Liber- 
ton, 2 

Ritchie, Alexander and John, the sculp- 
tors, 284— William and Adam, lo • 
gevity o^ 549 

Rizzio, murder of, 628 

Roads, bridges, &c, 21, 45, 53, 60, 73, 97, 
126, 144, 195, 203, 222, 294, 319, 335, 
354, 393, 423, 445, 510,534, 552, 575, 
609 

Robertson, Principal, 170, 493 

Robinson, Mr, fishing net factory of, 292 

Holland, John, 492 

Rollock, Professor, 670 

Roman remains, &c.,Colinton, 1 1 9 — Cor- 
storphine, 216— Cramond, 589 — ^Dud- 
dingston, 388, 389— Inveresk,254,271 
— Lasswade, 33— Longfiiugh, 58— Mid* 
Calder, 371— Newbattle, 63,68— Stow, 
416— WestrCalder, 305 

Rosebery, Earl of, 50, 51 



Rosewell collieries, 389— village^ 351 

Roslin, parish o^ 337— battle, 339— cas- 
tle, 849— chapel, 340— village, 389, 
352, 354 

Routing well, the, 283 

Royal Bank, the, 752— Botanic Garden, 
691 — Colleges of Physicians and Sur- 
geons, 686— Company of Archers, 719 
—Exchange of Edinburgh, 644 — Infir- 
mary, 726— Institution, 698, 699, 704 
—Medical Society, 689— Phytical So- 
ciety, 690— Scottish Academy, 699— 
Society, 687— Society of Arts, 693 

Royston house, 596 

Ruddiman, Thomas, 687 

Rullion green, battle of, 113, 315 

Runciman the painter, 87, 697 

RusBell the historian, 414 

Rutherfiird, Andrew, Esq. 596— Rev. Sa- 
muel, 880 

Sacrament, first admimstration fsf, by 
Knox, 371 

Sailcloth, manufiMJtory of, 291 

St Andrew*s church, 665 

St Anne*s carpet manu&ctory of, 834 

St Anthony^ chapel and hermitage, 620, 
657— weU, 658 

St Baldred, 260 

St Bernard^ church, 665— well, 621 

St Catherine^ church, ruins of, 7, 29— 
house, 11 — petroleum well at, 805— 
monastery, 657 

St Clair, family of, 840 

St Cuthberfk church, &c. 664 — eharity 
workhouse, 747 

St Giles% church, 658 

St George'b chapel, 667— church, 665 

St James's chapel, 667 

St John'b chapel, 657, 666— church, 665 
'^quoiid iftcra parieih, Leith, 778 

St Leonard's paper-mill, 608, 609— vil< 
lage,609 

St Maryli diapel, 657— church, 665— 
church, ruins of, 409 

St Mary in the Fields, chapel of, 656 

St Mary Magdalenels hospital, 657 

St Mary of Placentia, chapel of, 657 

St Mathew's well, 338 

St Miehael\i church, 270 

St Mungo'B weU, 29, 545 

St Nicholas^ chapel, 766 

St Ninian's chapel, 657 

St Paul's chapet 666 

St Roquet chapel, 657 

St Stephen's church, &c. 665 

St Thomas's church, 779— hospital, 657 

Salisbury crags, &15, 619 

Samson^ ribs, 620 

Sandilands, fiimily of, 362-^ir James, 
363— the reformer, 365 

Saughton house, 597 

Savings' banks, 47, 55, 75, 105, 189, 299, 
321, 427, 531, 758 

School of arts, 686— of design, 704 



794 



EDINBURGHSHIRE. 



Schools, see Eduoation 

ScoU law society, 6d0 

Scott of Bucdeuch , history of fiunily of, 
484— of Malleny, family of, 548— Ge- 
neral, id.— Dr David, 2d6-^ame8, 227 
— Hod. Campbell, 490— monoment,666 

Scottish Academy, 699— Naval and Mili- 
tary Academy, 684 — Society of Arts, 
693— Regalia, 651 

Scougall the painter, 697 

Seafield baths, 766 

Sea mill of Mimelbiugh, the, 271 

Semple, Rev. Samuel, 5, 10 

Session, comt of, 715 

Shank house, ruins o^ 157, 175— point, 
174 

Sharp, Rev. Thomas, 236 

Sharpe, Sir William, 261 

Shawls, manufiu;tory of; 789 

Sheens, origin of name of, 657 

Sheep, see Live-stock 

Sheriff-court, 717 

SheriffhaU colUevy, 560, 570, 575 

Shorts bursary, 679 

Sibbald, Sir Robert, 672 

Signet library, the, 645 

Silk-mill, 738 

Simpson, Rev. Archibald, 481, 562 

Sinclair of Boslin, family of, 351— Ed- 
ward, t5— Oliver, 815 

Skeltimuir, limestone at, 606 

Skene of Hallyards, 136— Sir Jodm, of 
Cnrriehill, 547 

Slatefbrd, village of, 121 

Small debt court, 717 

Smith, Dr Adam, 490 

Society dT high constables, the, 718— for 
the sons of the cleigy, 669 

Societies, religions and charitable, 147, 
426, 530, 721, 737 

Solicitors before the supreme courts, the, 
716- 

Somerset, the protector, 264, 275 

Sommers, Dr John, fi69 

South Bridge, the, 645 

South Esk, the, 49, 68, 154, 174, 458, 607 

Southiield house, 1 1 

South Leith, parish of, 776 

Soutra church and village, site of; 536— 
hill, 534 

Spalding, a wisard, 510 

Spark, Rev. Mr, death of, 554 

Speculative society, the, 689 

Spottiswoode,John,367 — Archbishop, 368 

Springfield, Roman road at, 333, house, t5. 

Spy law house, 1 1 1 

Stage hall, camp at, 416 

Stair, Earl of, 136, 141 

Stanhope mills, village of, 222 

Statues, Edinburgh, 655 

Steam engine, large, Inveresk, 252 

Stewart, Sir James, of Goodtrees, 5 

Stewartls bursary, 678— monument, 655 

Stirling, General, 284 

Stobbs mill, village of, 183 



StobhiU oolliery, 606— village, 53 

Stobs, gunpowder mills of; 53 

Stone cofiins found in Boithwiok, 178— 
Corstorphine, 217 — Dalkeith, 502— 
Glencroas, 317— Inveresk, 277, Kirk- 
liston, 138— Roslin, 352 

Stones, monumental, Kirkliston, 137, 138 

Stonyhill house, 281 

Stow, parish of, 398— early state of, 430 
—village, 422 

Strachan, John, bequest by, 597, 737 

Straiton quarry, 21 

Strange, Sir Robert, 739 

Stuart, Professor, 284— Gilbert, ib. 

Sugar refineries, Leith, 771 

Sunnyside house, 1 1 

Suigeons' hall, 687 

Swanston, village of* 121 

Syme, Geordie, 510 

Symington house, 417 

Symson, Rev. Andrew, 517— Rev. Archi- 
bald, 518 

Tanneries in Musselbux|^ 292 

Templars, supp re ss i on m the, 865 

Temple, parish o^ 49— church, 51— vil- 
lage, 52, 53 

Theatre Royal, Edinbuin^, 707 

Thomson, Dr, bequest by, 682— Joseph, 
bequest by, 787— Rev. John» 387, 698 

Thorbum, Grant, 495 

Thomybank, viUi^ o^ 501 

Tobacco pipe factory, 738 

Torphichen, family of, 362 

Torphichen, preoeptoi^ of, 864 

Torquhan hovse, 417 

Torsonce castle, ruins of; 418— inn, 429 

Torwoodlee castle and house, 417, 418— 
estate of, 407 

Town guard of Edinburgh, the, 624 

Town hall, Leith, 766 

Thiquair forest, 409 

Trees, remarkable, Bortbwick, >57— Co- 
linton, 112— Cranston, 1 92— Dalkeith, 
453 — Duddingston, 385 — Gleneross, 
313— Hawthomden, 330— Heriot, 199 
Inveresk, 253 — Liberton, 18 — Mid- 
Calder, 36 1 — Newbattle467— Stow, 407 

Trent, Rev. Patrick, 54 

Trinity chain pier, 781— chapel, 667— 
college churdi, 721 — house, 763 — ^well, 
538 

Tron church, 663 

Trotter, John, Mortonhall, bequests by, 4 

Tumuli, Borthwick, 173— CoHnton, 119 
Lasswade, 333— Liberton, 5 — Midcal- 
der, 373 

Tunnel, remarkable, Inveresk, 250 

Turner, Rev. Patrick, 520 

Tumhouse hill, 310, 312— camp at, 317 

Tyne water, 56, 191, 192 

Typography in Edinburgh, 696 

Tytler, Patrick Fraser, Esq. 816— WiK 
iiam, Esq. of Woodhouselee, ib. 

Union Bank of Scotland, 753 

Union Canal, 78, 98, 126, 145, 754 



I 



INDEX. 



795 



University of Edinburgh, the, 670— li- 
brary, 680 
Urns found in InTeresk, 259 — Kirkliston, 

138 
Valleyfield mills, 34, 44 
Veitch, Rev. John, 493 
Veterinary school, the, 692 
Viaduct, the Esk, 512 
Vioar'to acres, the, 8— weU, 288 
Victoria, Queen, 492, 641— statue of, 656 
Vogrie hoase» 173, 178 
Wages, rates of, 14, 52, 71, 94, 123, 142, 

182, 195, 288, 444, 505, 540, 550, 573 

— ancient, in Stow, 431 
Walker, General, 415, 426— Professor, 

672— WiUiam, 284 
Walker Dnimmond, Sir Francis, 326 
Wall of Edinburgh, the, 643 
Wallace^ Sir William, 385 
Wallace^ camp and cave, 332 
Wallifbrd, village of, 294 
Wardie bum, 590, 591 
Warklaw hill, camp on, 547 
Water of Leith, village o^ 665 
Waterspout, damage done by, 386 
Waterworks, Edinburgh, 109, 756 
Watherston, Roman camp at, 416 
Watson, Captain, bequest by, 343— Rev. 

Laurence, 562 
Watson'^Hospital, Georges', 723 -John% 

725 
Wauchope, Gilbert, 4 — Sir John, 5 — John, 

Esq. 561 
Webster, Rev. James, 10 
Wedale, district of, 409 
Wedderbum, Archibald, 493 
WeUington statue, the, 656 
Wemerian natural history society, the, 689 
West Calder, parish of, 304— village, 307, 

308 



West church, Edinburgh, 664 

West Craigs hill, 206 

Wester bum, 358, 545 

Wester Duddingston, village of, 388, 390, 
393 

Westmill, village of. 609 

Westpans, village o^ 294 

Whales caught off Cramond, 592 

Whitehill house, 611— improvements at, 
613— village, 500, 501, 510 

^Vliytbanklee, village of, 423 

Whyte, Rev. Thomas, 3, 5 

Whytock, Rev. Geoi^ge, 527— and Co. 
carpet factory of, 334 

Wilkie, Rev. William, 86— Mr, improve- 
ments by, 142 

Wilkieston, village of, 445 

Williamson, Peter, 751 

Wilson, Christian, a witch, 510 

Winchbuigh, village of, 139 

Windlestrae law, 404 

Windydoors castle, ruins of, 41 8 

Wishart, George, 270 

Witches of Midcalder, the, 373 

Wolfb Cleuch, the, 202 

Woodbum house, 69 

Woodcot house, 535 

Woodhall house. Ill 

Woodhouselee, Lord, 316 

Woodhouselee, trees at, 313 

Woodville house. 111 

Woolmet, suppressed parish of, 561— 
church, ruins o^ 568 — house, 569 — vil- 
lage, 570, 575 

Workhouse, Edinburgh, 743 

Writers to the Signet, &culty of, 716 

Wymet, see Woolmet 

Zoological gardens, Edinburgh, 692 

Zoology, 50, 66, 80, 111, 135, 159, 199, 
252, 404, 454, 561, 591, 621 



SEP *> 5 1917 

Erkatum. 
Page 604, note, /or body read booty. 



BDINBUROH *. PRINTED BT STARK AND COSf PANY, 
OLD ASSEMBLY CLOSE. 



i .