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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I ^ ^ 9i J ( THE NEW STATISTICAL A C C C OF SCOTLAND VOL. II. I I i 4 STATISTICAL AC( SCOTLAN] THE UlNISTEBS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISH 3UPERINTBNDENCB OF A COMMITTEE OP T FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS DAUOHTERS OF THE CLEBOT. VOL. II. imLITHGOW-HAIDISGTON-BEBS WILLIAM BLACKWOOD Al EDINBURGH AND LONDC MDCCCXLV. / ! I • • • ••• • • » • • ' . • • . • « • I . t J , LINLITHGOW i 1 A i f CONTENTS. ABBRCOBN, BATHGATE, BORROWSTOWNNBSSy CARRIDBN, DALMBNY, ECCLBSMACHAN, LINUTHGOW, LIYIKOSTONE, QUEBNSFERRY, TORPHICHBN, UPHALL, WHITBURN, ^ ^ PARISH OF QUEENSFERR PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & 1 THE REV. THOMAS DIMMA, A. M., MINIS I. — Topography and Natural Histor' Boundaries* — Tuis parish, which comprehends the is bounded on the north by the Frith of Forth, and else by the parish of Dalmeny. In the town, but royalty, there are 422 inhabitants, and at New-Halls census 1841. Climate^ 8fc. — In winter the thermometer ranges 15^ In November 1830 it was 32^ at the lowest, an lowing January at 23°. The barometer is not subjc than the usual variations. The Frith opposite the town is about a mile ar breadth. The tide rises 18 feet at the harbour mouth, is shallow on the southern shore; but the depth is gre Fife side, where in the fair- way between the island I and the Battery Point, the bottom has been found with fathoms. At certain seasons, after floods occasioned snow or falls of rain, the saltness of the water is much by the volume of fresh water carried down by the F< tributary streams. The town is supplied with water collected in an art voir, very liberally formed, at the expense of the Earl o in the year 1819. This has proved an unspeakable a the town. During the great drought of last summei reservoir was nearly emptied, the burgh laid outupwan in heightening the embankment, and thereby greatly the supply of water. At the original formation of th the town expended L. 200. The houses in the centre of the town are founded o which extends to the foot of the rising ground or brae^ tom of which the town is built. In the west and eas sandstone appears, which dips to the north witK ^ ^ LINLITHGOW. K 2 LINLITIIGOWSI angle of depression. In digging the fr in the churchyard, sea-shells are founc whole site of the town has been reclai I i II. — Civil Hij There is no complete account of th- ' lar notice, though there is an anonymc 1726, arising out of some disputes b the clergyman of the time, which of interest connected with the erect io the minister, &c. Some document representative of the ancient family show, in 1689, the state of the water ty-two shares, among twelve shareho petition, printed in 171ft, and presents Burghs, setting forth the great distre the failure of trade, pressure of taxati( Halls, and the quartering of soldiers returning from it. At a very early period, the spot ^ much frequented, as the most conve narrow strait which separates the c( i Fife. At a remote era, it was denom Romans, about the year a. d. 83, pern I lakes, and forests in the neighbourh discoveries made of bones, funeral ur i mediate neighbourhood, point it out between the original inhabitants anc || near the course of the Roman wall, I this may well account for the importai On the conquest of England by tt rious fugitives escaped* to Scotlani Atheling^ heir of the Confessor's rac a most beautiful and accomplished named Cean Mohr, married this prir ward of the town a spot favourable Port Edgar,* and some rocks, from vi tomed to pass to the opposite shores I • » * George 1 V. emiMu-ked at Port Edgar on t England. He wai accompanied tkom Hopetoun ^1 toun. At the Hune pier, on Uie Itt October 18t / I tinsuished earl were landed from His Mi^etty' I amidft the regrets of the whole nation. ■I QUEGNSFERRY. uses or graves ience that the sea. ng of particu- f bearing date igistrates and LIS particulars , provision for hands of the : Craigiehall, ided into thir- is likewise a iition of Royal on account of ailors to New- north, and in 1 is built was r crossing the Lothian from ^ansitusy as the s the marshes, ven. Various town and im- of 6erce strife and as it lay nus, A. D. 140, sarly acquired. • D. 10669 va- these Edgar ter, Margaret, :olm III., sur- To the West- on was called (en was accus- i low Latin of % on his return to the Earl of Hope- ;he gallant and dU* risk, from France, the time, Pasaagium ReffintSy and in the vulgar to or the Queen's- Ferry^ by which name it was then was formerly a house on the beach, near some called the Binks, which, it is understood, was buil accommodation while waitinor the arrival of her b posite shore, on her way to Dunfermline, the royi much attached to this princess were the inhabitan mark was cut out in the solid rock ; and some ol speak of it as being in existence in the recoUectio inhabitants. In a charter of Malcolm IV. the town was cs ffiruBj who granted a free passage to the monks of twfi Reginat. Pope Gregory, in 1234, conGrm« of Dunfermline, dimidium passoffice sancice Ma This was also granted to the abbey of Dunfermlii regranted by Robert III., and confirmed by Jai At the Reformation this right was disposed of sixteen shares.; but there is evidence on record sold eighteen-sixteenths. Though a port so early as Malcolm IV., it burgh in 1556, when a tax was levied on royal bi cured a charter of erection into a free royal burg erection was much opposed by Linlithgow, whic by some degrading concessions. It appears to \n sentative to Parliament in 1639. Under the L privilege of choosing a representative to Parlian Stirling, Inverkeithing, Culross, and Dunfermlin council consists of twenty-one, of whom two-third merchant sailors, and three were deacons of crafts of persons residing within the royalty, whose rent tenantry amount to L. 10, are 20; and in the e there are 10 persons resident rated at the same a; The parish was an erection from Dalmeny, in ratified by Act of Parliament 1641, at which seems to have acquired considerable importa quence of its commercial intercourse with Hoi time it possessed nearly twenty great ships, wit ing vessels of a smaller size. A church was on the ruins of a very ancient chapel. Sc bear the date of 1685, and one, apparently of a 1 riod. The magistrates and town-council are patro 4 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. The length of llie town does not Gxtend to on ■ind its breadtli to a few hundred ynrd.". hounded by one row of houses on the noril several closes, as they are called, extend bad is flat and sandy, except on the east and w< rocks extend a considerable way into the sea ridge the harbour is formed. The rude erect has been replaced by a very substantial pier under the directions of Mr Stevenson, civil eoj Parochial Uffjiiters. — The parochial registei to the present time. The first entry in the n 1635. and in that of marriages, 1635. They . but have been regularly kept, though ilie regis pears, with a few exceptions since the commenc sion, to conlHil) only llie names of those connec Wished Church.' — " At QucinsfiT chnpG of Kilinbuit. came jsitFra tn the al cunsccniion of jr new necl it church jr, and foradniiin'ng c ininitter yno. living the first man ;■ wu prewnlil to jt pir Mr David hi* eirtrie in the loun, he went li; the (ileip) wi the kirk, ^Ik wai then iockii. qre iDptt him, Rot Dauli peeaent baillin, aecoinpaniet wt the biill honneit mea of t David drmandinic (he baillin and the reit of the campanie had build that hous, vha re|ilyit onlie to the glorje of God, ■ in tockin ytot ihey did render him. Thii bring dune, and laid biichopc did uceiid the pulpit, and jairafter pnnr on he maid chois of bii leit furib of . tfk on Kcratiun of the church, and niit to the admiaiune of the aal being endil, liro childrene war bapIiEil. jt on to Galhin 871 and uthr to Andro Hulton, namil George. Aftet tfaii the to ane sent before the pulpit, qr he did demand furth of the ■ueh and luch queiiionis ni concernit the adminioun of 1 divyne calling and repljia war maid be the aaid Mr Rot celebrat. Qlk endil and a'aaline lung, the compaoie, than ; '.' AtQueiufcrTieiAugtul 23,1635, — Thequhilk daj etWeii roinitter at South Quein>rciric. accompaniet with Ibe wbotl burij. ind than did nominat and choiiit the pcrioiii* folloi eldart wlhn tlic uiid paroch, tii. Ac. &c. Upon the aamc da} forme cftient oftbe wwione that Ihe diit'f place wthin th« t for the baitliei and enunsillort. Alw it waa qipojntil that Dur daika within the kirk, hot all pewia - • ■• Septembei 6, 1635.— The qlk da^ »M<»iebeInginMt,il Dallinfi. eldar, ahould keip ihe kirk boi, and Robert Dallii tliould keip the kejii fbi the flnt qrter. Upon tbe aamc c whauocTer pertonii war buikil for the perforuiance of matri' wlb auScient eaGnen that tbe; ahould perfi>rnic and ac in fouriic dajei, under the paine of fourtf ponndia, Opon /* danil Ibnt quhaaocrer ahould defjle the martiag b«d befora poundii Scottiah moey , and that to be coiignit bafbir Ibair m dalnJt that qtioinever peraonia ahould bulk Ibarotelfla to pet QUKENSFERHY. ' of a mile, one street, the south The shore J ledt^es of he western I early time rbour, built I from 1635 baptisms is 'oluminous, aptisms a|>- ►f the seces- 1 the Esta- t, schoolmaster, ly, seconnd his- iferrie, for the «rt Gibbisone, after the said s the doore of i^ot Hili than The said Mr rhat end ihey worshipc, and id oppine, the d salme sung, to the con- >ert. Sermon amit Edward, >pe dischendit ord (ination) If Rot., to yt k iinischit be 1*8 supper was ed for the for- lert Gibbisone, len of the said ! deaconis and )Oyntit be unt- •uld be applyit lid be no seats int that James avid Wilsone, ordainit that >uld marriag wth- day it was or- should pay six 1 1 was also er- rand of matri* Emintnt Men, — It is not known that anv individu note have been connected with this parish. Mr Kid, nister from 1710 to 1743, was much distinguished a divine, and one of the twelve brethren who, in 172? representation lo the Assembly respecting the act pj demnation of the Marrow of Modern Divinity. Th< this individual at the time of the communion attracted the most distant parts of the country. By the sess appears that 60C communicants were sometimes ass mooie, saU pay to the reidar threttein shillingis four penneis. It ' that thes personis sail give to the beddell the day of thair marriag ordanit that the personis qusomevar that ir to be merriet sail cd< of 20 mek Sjottis mdy in cace that thair exceid ten shillings 1 aucht for the woman, and if so be the act be transgrest the m5ey sail liox. ft was also ordanit that at baptisme the father of the chykl sal dar aucht shillings and to the beddell four shillings. It w qusumever persone sail depart this lyf above ten yeires sal beddell ten shillings, and under ten yeircs six shillings aucht pc for the making of the graves. It was also ordanit that everi pecially the man, sail pay to our box for his trespas the suwm of the woman four poQds, and the relaps ever to be redowblit totles also ordanit that qtsomever pers6ni?» sail break the Sabbath day by ta or small boot to pass thi*t ferrie, from the rysing of the sune to the 1 day, thes personis sail be fyuit for the first fault in twelf shillings ! and if they suU fall in the saro fault againe, they sail stand at our ki cloth, and mak ane cofcssione of thair fault before the co^regane. danit that if the master of the bootis sail give thair cosent to the bo^ pay fyve pounds toticw quoties. It was also ordanit that qtsumevi bell drink upon the Sabbath day in tym of divyne service, sail be fyni lings. It was also ordanit qtsumever browster salbe found earing t hour upon sail be fynit in fourtie shillings Scottis. It \ that qtsumever personis salbe found out of our kirk in tyme of div be fynit in aucht shillingis. It was also ordanit that qt sumever pers salbe found bearing bur-n upon the Sabbath day within the tymes lit nott l>e able to pay fourtie shillings, yitt sail mak satisfactione at th< cording to the sessionis injunctione.*' ** September 13, 16.*i5 — The qlk day sessione being mett, Bessie 1 callit and compeirit, acknowledgit hirself to be wth chyld to David C onlanit that both pties should be warnit heir against this day aucl the ^am day it was ordanit that Mr James LevingJttone should be re kirk, so that he and our session can aggrie under sufficient t stit (ute) in his place ane copleit deputy heir to serve upon the Sal noone.** (Date omitted,) probably 20th September 1635 ^^ The qlk day sess callit and compeirit Bessie Howisone, cOfessit she was wth chyld to J —the said David callit and cdpeirit, cofessit kopelane wth the said Be it was ordanit that the man sould pay six poundis, and the woman fc to enter to the publick plac« of repentance, and to that effect Thorn come caune for the man, and William Thomptone for the woman.*^ ** November 8, 1635 —The qlk day cdvenit, Mr Robert Gibbisone, r Queinsferrie, being accompaniet wth the deaconis, eldars, and sessl sent, — after due deliheratne and advyse, all of them than present, ot and free will, wthout any costranit or copulsione, did codisceud all t should be joynit in wth thair kirk-box, to remaine thair for intertai affaires belonging to the kirk, and uther pious usss ; and this to be d cming. Protesting that out of gud coscience tbay war movit thairt thairof, and for gud exmple, James Hill, skippar, gave in 19 rex doll iirch Logy, skippary gave in 5 rex dollers to the kirk-bAv«* \ LtNI.ITlICOWSHI \ I - s. f \ i \ \ - J ■\ : * v. » ?! \ ^. that twenty-two pints of claret and eig used. Antiquities. — The burgh has no anei« west end of the town the Carnaelite chur gin, is deserving of notice. It was built ancient family of Dundas of Dundas, a extent and revenues are now unknown. the burial-place of the family, whose n vault under the place where stood the hi tomb, formed by the present proprietor. time to time, from the hostile commoti( country. It was injured by the cannon of the Commonwealth, as there are ball families, which tradition mentions as ha the cannonade had ceased. In the year ened to be plundered by the Highlande inburgh, but the Happy Janet, a ship ( prevented their designs being carried in There are some good houses in thi the Vaults. The church is a plain bui was fitted up with very great neatness ai upwards of L.500. It has an excellent I brought from Holland, at the erection c following inscription : " Soli Deo gloria keit, David Jonking, maerchant of Edi! the kirk of the Queensferrie. Cursed there. Anno domino 1635." It has a council- room, in which the magistratei despatch of business. III. — POPULAI The population, as given in to Dr Webster, ' in 1791, 1801, 1821, 1831, 1841. In 1831, there were 313 males, and ( 339 males, and 382 females, in 169 fa IV. — Industi No attempt hitherto made to suppl hood with white fish has proved success they are brought here in boats from tl vera! persons, who carry on a profitabh 1 QUUBNSFKRUY. loave s were ; but in the I to the Vir- I by the very r ia-30. lu to this- time ^posited in a low in a new uSered from ailed in the in the time :sionof some ked up after 1 was threat- larch to £d- )ff the town, lat is called he year 1821 e expense of shipmasters It has the ?erhuys me- this bell to takes it frae bells, and a leet for the d in 1841, neighbour- mer months Fife, by se- article. In winter, it is very mortifying to see the* London fish ted with wells, carrying off numerous cargoes of co ern markets, while our own tishermen only occasioi gaged in the herring -fishery, employ a line or two pose with very indifferent success. To the westwa a salmon- fishery has been established, which has b very successfully by its present tenant, Mr M* Quee are employed, in which, particularly in the monti August, great numbers of salmon, grilses, and sea tr They are regularly sent to the Edinburgh market the demand in the neighbourhood. The herring-fishery is the principal employment ants during the winter months. Masons, quarriei gular fishermen, are occupied from the end of Nc beginning of March in this very useful and profit industry. It commenced in the year 1792, opposi in St Margaret's Hope, Inverkeithing Bay, &c. it has been carried on with various degrees of succ< period of the fishery was more successful than ii During the war, the prices were high, and several c in the trade, and so many as 600 barrels were |>ort. In 1831, which was a very abundant fii 1500 barrels were cured ; but the curers, unable t( carters, who came from all quarters of the country * herrings, could take advantage of those days only vv exceeded the demand. Forty or fifty carts were f tendance, carrying away from 6000 to 12000 each, ried from 6d. to Is. 6d. per 100. The curers sel at a higher price than 7s. the cran or barrel. Tl boats belonging to the town, carrying each four or fi^ nished generally with twelve nets, fifty yards long an< deep. But the boats employed in the fishery fror Fisherrow, Prestonpans, Cellardykes, Buckhaven, I to about 50 or 1 00 ; the greater part of these discharj at this port. This occasions a considerable bustl and is a principal source of revenue, each boat pay in cart 6d. When the curing goes forward briskly, abou are employed in preparing the herring for the barre duty, when cured on the pier, of 4d., and in the p< who are expert in the business can easily earn 2s. Though this trade is most beneficial to the count r 8 L1.NLITHGOWSI not favourable to tlie nioratity of th spirits is greatly increased, and ihe ir of the most exemplary character, cast ring season wliich is most injurious ti year 1831, the fishery of herrings ba sionally, some good seasons have oc( have been very unproductive. For herring- season, immense shoals of ga rings, have ap|>eared off the town an< an eiceilent article of food, and hav tions of the fishermen when in demar has often interfered, tmder the idea t t with small meshes, is injurious to the to be wished that this matter were se ermen to pursue their avocations. Tl ji herrings, but they are a mere fractia ^ that fill the water. ;■ A number of females are very profi F months in spinning bemp for neli<, w f the family (boys and girls) work up < !'. pedition. A net when finished is wo f genious individual, Mr Paterson, one j! moved to his manufactory in Mussell P at L.2, 10a., by the aid of machine ., an astonishing degree of perfection. (^ boats of larger size, from the end of . j tember, are employed in the nonh( boat engaging with the ciirers, to fur rels, fur which they receive 7s. or 8s., But (hey arc not always able to comp the young men also, from time to lime, ■ fishery, though misfortune and want o rather deterred them from engaging i they generally engage in the coaslin^ engaged in the North American woo The manufacture of soap was foi skill,'and on a great scale, in this to' employing about thirty or forty men, L.800()orL.10,000peraDnum. But been experienced here, as well as in o seven years there has been only one e QUEENSFERUY. ' ardent sneraliy ;he ber* ice the Occa* al, thej in the ng her- hey are e exer- Fishery wl net, s much le fish- young ^arvies Limmer bers of ud ex- I an in* ow re- 1 then) ight to 5 a few 3f Sep- ^ each »0 bar- er sum. L few of whale- rs have ^e, and vessels 1 great • works duty of le have he last )loying three or four men, and this also has for several years I tinned. The trade is precarious, and far from lucra workmen make good wages, and, as the business is at \ ducted, the morals of those engaged do not suffer. There are no vessels belonging to the port, though a ing ship property resides here. The foreign trade is on, though various coasting- vessels from time to time with barley f9r the distillery here and at Kirklis coals used by the inhabitants are nearly all sea-borne, winter months, some farmers in the country have been tice of shipping potatoes for the London markets, and the course of the season cargoes of rape-cake, drain- Sec. A few carrroes of stones are also sent to different an excellent freestone quarry at Humbie, about three m V. — Parochial Economy. The situation of Queensferry is favourable for con with the metropolis and the northern parts of the kingi water passage is admirably managed. The great nortl in the very best state of repair, while that to Edinburg exceeded in excellence. This was the first turnpike ra Lothian, formed in the year 1751. There is a post-offi( the mail arrives from Edinburgh at half-past 6 a.m., anc from the north at 5 a. m. and 8 p. m. There are iwo co leave the town each morning for Edinburgh, and re evening. At various times in the day there are four ot which pass to and from the north. On the opening c burgh and Glasgow Railway, in February 1842, a mi ed to join it at the Winchburgh station. It was discoi iug the winter, and has not yet been resumed. There is much obscurity about the establishment c passage. It was once private property, and appears t( attached to the lands of Muiryhall, consisting of seve in the immediate vicinity of the town. These were, ed, a donation from Queen Margaret, for supporting There were formerly two classes of proprietors ; the shares, and the holders of boats and yawls. A chang in 1784, when the whole boats were purchased by the i and let by annual roup. They were kept in a state pair, and the arrangements devised by th^ proprietors diciously carried into effect, that the interests of the as well consulted as circumstances would ^eKKv\\v. 10 LINLITHGOW the piers and ftliipjiings was, hove way of comfort. Those on the sout very ruinous condition, and at certaii and inconvenience were esperieiiceti (lassengers. This stale of things continued till was felt to improve the water passage of management, and making such ch tance demanded. An application 1609, rendered necessary by the fol there were no suitable piers, — no su| the North Ferry, where all the boatm wharfs, unconnected with thepassage,- piers so incomplete, as to admit of ' hours in each tide. The rates and i and the jurisdiction was such, that i compelled to keep the piers in a stat By the act, trustees were nominate ))erson3,viz. the Keeperof the Great i General, Lord Advocate, Lord Jus gister. Lord Chief- Baron, and Vice- uf the Signet, Postmaster- General fo of Perth, Linlithgow, Fife, Kinross, of the Forces, Admiral of Leitb ; Linlithgow, Queensferry, Inverkeithii of the counties ; the proprietor of lb all having L.'200 Scots valuation in trustees to be a quorum ; a committ< of fifteen, who have the power of i trustees, by the act, was committed tb ing'places, purchasinggroundfor boa ries in any common in Fife, on the si between Port Edgar and the Long ( At this time there was only one pi the south, one at New-Halls, the otli tageous, however, as an alteration anc obviously were, there was great and at length was happily overcome. Tl piers were surveyed by tbe celebrated * For the privilege of erecting a pirr tint, L QUEENSPERRY. H the Exchequer agreed to propose to Parliament to advance one- half of the money required for the purchase of shares and the erection of piers, on condition that the other half should be advan- ced by individuals. The sum expended in purchasing the property otthe shareholders, and improvements at the Ferry, amounted to L. 33,824, 14s. Q^d. ; of this, the public paid L. 13,586, J Js. 8d., and there were lent by individuals, in sums of L.500, L.20,238, 3s. l^d. The purchase of the original shares amounted to . L.8673 13 IO4 The North Ferry pier cost . . 4206 19 6 The signal house, . . . 406 10 The superintendent's houiie and garden, . 260 9 1 A stripe of ground leading to the Long Craig, 900 The pier at Port Edgar, 378 feet long, cost 4763 13 10 New- Halls* pier, 722 feet in length, cost . 8696 The small pier at Port Nuick, . . 587 11 11 Land and building six houses, at South Queensferry, 909 U 6 The original funds subscribed being exhausted, there was a se« cond application, in 1812, made to Government, and a new sub- scription. By these means the Long Craig Pier was built;* the small East Battery Pier ; the West Battery Pier on the north side was raised and enlarged ; the North Ferry Pier lengthened, &c. Steam navigation was introduced, and the Queen Margaret put on the passage on October 1st 1821. This caused additional ex- pense in the raising of the piers. To meet this, the sinking fund was pledged, two large sailing boats were put down, and two pin- naces with their crews. The Queen Margaret cost L.2369. Since September 1820, there have been three large sailing boats of the original construction, the Earl of Moray half-tide boat, and three pinnaces. The crews of these, thirty-six men and boys. The hire of a boat, when light, 2s. 6d. ; dark, /vs. Large ditto, light, 5s. ; dark, 6s. Exemptions from the above rates, mail horses or expresses from the post-office ; soldiers on march, horses of officers, ordnance carts, volunteers, if in uniform ; carts carry- ing vagrants with the legal passes. By the act, not more than two- thirds of the boats and yawls to remain at each side. The boat- men are not liable to be impressed. Two superintendents to be appointed. Steam navigation by the Frith and across it, by coaches passing to Burntisland, greatly diminished the number of passengers at this ferry, but in 1811, we have the following account : 228 per- sons crossed each day, and sometimes 447 ; 1515 carriages annu- The long Craig Pier is 1177 feet in leci^Vv. \'2 LINLItHUOWSIII hUv; 4-i54 carts do.; 13,154 horses '25,151 sheep do. ; '55^0 barrel bulk di The expenses of ihe steam*boat per Skipper, Tvuictmen, 18>.. The steam-boat has contributed muc passengers in calm weather and cross « being long on their passage as ihey fori tow by tlic Queen M;irgarct, are scarce sing. There arc twu porters at each side boats are manned by experienced seame navigation, generally regular in their ha tention to passengers. No loss o( a b' than siity years; and this may be con;! gidated ferries in (he kingdom. In Oi choly accident occurred at the Newhal reprehensible practice of driving the c( along the piers, to receive passengers lady aud a female servant were precipi wliicli they had just entered, Into the i ihey could be entricaled. The mothe man had nearly shared (he same fate, will not be speedily forgotten, the prai has been abandoned. Two or three t may be preveuted from crossing by g ry winds, but this very rarely extends present time, 1831, the renUl of Ihe | tium; the tacksmen engaging to keep wages of the men. The harbour of Queensferry was 0Q( tion, bnt is now in a very excellent stat making the recent improvemenis were L.60U from the convention of royal hu noble families in the neighbourhood; from the funds of the burgh, ^ri^ing fr niuir to Dundas of Dundasfor L.16I0. ring-fishery is prosperous, the harbour QDEENSPERRY. cattle do. ; do. allows : modation of 3, instead of ing taken in ites in pas- istees. The ed with the hi their at- d for more he best re- nost melan- the very ater's edge A young coach, into med before id a gentle- day, which on the pier ir the boats or contra- ^. At the ^0 per an- nd pay the nous condi- he funds for itribution of om the two ning L.800 r the Ferry len the her* •d with ves- sels engaged in curing. The dues exigible by the almost the only source of revenue now possesses are let annually by public roup. Since the rem trade, the rental has been gradually falling ofTi ai only to L.80 per annum ; since the erection of i has risen to L. 100. Ecclesiastical State, — The church is placed in t town, and is most convenient for the inhabitants, lent state of repair, and may accommodate abo There are numerous free sittings, more than are i mand. The seats, with the exception of three frc nually let by public roup, under the authority, an< the rangistrates. The rental forms a part of the s is neither manse nor glebe belonging to the miuisi is increased by a Government allowance of L. 49 in lieu of a manse and glebe^ L.50 have been rec< a late act of Parliament. Ministers. — 1. Mr Robert Gibbeson, ordaine 1633, and died in 1641 ; 2. Mr Ephraim Melvi Andrew Melville, ordained 1st September 1641, Livingston, 16.30; 3. Mr John Primrose, ordaine 1652, removed in 1662, by the Indulgence came 1 ferry, and died 28th December 1673. There wc between 1673 and 1690. Of the number, Ar« continued only one year, in 1683. None of t! Most of the number appear to have preached witl: larly inducted. 4. Mr Donald Campbell, transpoi avonside in December 1693, died in 1697 ; 5. M ordained in 1700, and died in the year 1709 ; 6. ordained 28th September 1710, and died 9th 1 7. Mr Archibald M'Aulay, ordained 1746, and Mr John Henderson, ordained 1782, died June Thomas Dimma, ordained 16th November 1820. There is one Dissenting meeting-house here I Associate Synod. The stipend, it is believed, a per annum,. raised from the seat-rents* Familie Established Church, December 1830, HO ; numl the above, 464 ; number attending Dissenters, in lies, 194; Roman Catholics, in three families, h sent time, April 1843, the families attending th* are 111, and the number of persons in these, 446 14 LINLITHGOWB of families, in coonection with Ihe 1 214 persons, of whom 9 are Roman i other religious denominations. Then longing to ihe Established Church. Divine service is well attended hotl and Dissenting congreffation; althouj many connected with each, are eithe negligent in their attendance on ordin ber of regular communicants in the There is a penny a-week Bible society, made in the church, for various religi< which may amount oti an average to L average of the collections made at th' poor fiinds, amounts, for the last ten L.35, but now to about L. 2S. Editcatioit. — There are three sch burgh or parochial, one private and i school. The usual branches are tau| eluding English, writing, arithmetic mathematics, Latin, Greek, and Frei English, writing, and arithmetic; in tl branches of female education, includit salary of the burgh teacher is L.29, with the addition of the school-fees, c of L. 60. The average annual expc irom 10s. to L.l, lOs. The burgh s> ed, and well taught. A new school- for the reception of the pupils, in root the worst in the bounds, while the ne' best in the country. Z/tArartcs.— There is one subscripti 600 volumes, one under Ihe managem congregation of 400 volumes, and oa school, containing 1335 small public This school has been taught by the m. every Sabbath evening, for two hours i of great advantage to the rising gem well attended. The library has been a taste for reading, and storing the mi knowledge. Friendly Societies. — There are tw QUEENSFEHRT. 40, containiog 1 1 1 belong to imunicants be- lished Church -^retted, that or altogether average num- Church is J 'HO. IS are annually able purposes, inually. The in aid of the nnual sum of >wn, viz. the d one female ;h school, in« h geography, rivate school, )l, the various rawing. The inum, which, ke an income e pupil varies *ously attend- early finished le, which was be one of the taining nearly ciate Burgher the Sabbath ;o the young, aty-two years, nd has proved s always been iai in exciting 3g with useful rielies in the town, from which allowances are made during death, the funeral expenses are paid. It is anoti of these, a weekly payment is made of one shilli which is paid out in one sum, half-yearly, at the t rents are due. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average nut lar poor, 16; allowance monthly, from Ss. 6d. door collections, L.85 ; rent of money and land, legacies, mortcloth, and marriage dues, L.5; in just bequeathed by Captain Henry Meek, decei the parish, and now payable, making the allowai on the roll from .3s. 6d. to 8s. per month, also, about twenty children are educated. No been adopted to procure relief for the poor, but of church-door collection. This has hitherto nn without having recourse to assessments. The p have in former times been unusually well provide attentions of various individuals in the respectab death and a change of circumstances this supp much diminished. By a decision of the Court of residing in Queensferry, but in that part of it bel rish of Dalmeny, have been found entitled to sha This adds about *25 persons, who receive an all Meek funds. It has not been found that there \\ tance to apply for parochial relief, though, in n been offered before it was sought. It has ofte observed, that many persons permit their aged r on the poor-roll, which, with a better spirit, they vent The collections at the church-door have minished since the Meek bequest has been < mode of relieving the poor is well deserving those whom Providence has blessed with the me tess of Rosebery gives employment in spinning t industrious females of the town, who are able ti or ds. each month. This produces excellent ef bitants, and induces them to practice a useful ai ters of the country &llen into disuse. There is a jail in the burgh, or rather a lock-i ers are seldom detained beyond a single night, be examination to Linlithgow. The town-officer is jail. 'le I.IKI.1TIIOOWg( Fair. — The annual Fair in August 'a those who only require excitement lo in agreeablejto others whose families are time. A custom hns been observed, fr evening before tlie fair : the boys dress a covering of burs, from head to fool, a and flowers, and conducting him, led b< the town and neighbourhood. They rei the inhabitanls. The origin of this prac Inns, Alehouses, §-c. — There are 1 ini and 4 shops where accommodation The facilities enjoyed here for the t been most prejudicial to the moral'i oft a most frighlful character have occurre the immoderate use of spirits, and thou; both by fire and water, the votaries of c proved nor diminished in number. Th wretchedness originating from this causi by their parents, and families are reduc lute habits of those who ought to provic Coals are brought by sea from Fife, carts. They are seldom furnished at a ton, and sometimes a much higher prii quantities to the poor, the cost is much MlBCELLANEOUS ObSI In the summer months this place is i for sea-bathing and change of air. Tb dually improving, and the delightful wal particularly attractive. Since the date count, the appearance of the town is con ral new houses have been erected, and a ing both to beauty and convenience. SIi description have been established, am country increasing, enables the merchan similar to those in the metropolis, blished here has been discontinued. 1 has been in operation here, under the fi lillery Company. It is on a small seal 2600 gallons weekly ; but, being fitted manner, and skilfully managed, it prodit QUKBN8FERRY. morals of ranee, but ed at that lorial, the nber with h ribbons 9 through ions from pertained, ilehouses, drinking, rits have idents of ear from n deaths ther im- erty and eglected le disso- 5 &c by lOs. per in small by many is gra- render it ical Ac- id ; seve- ontribut* pectable Pom the ces very ng esta- distillery rth Dis- 1700 to ipproved irst qua« Irty. It gives employment to about twenty person considerably to the trade of the port in its imports an< Since June 1838, a new steamer, the William Ada put on the passage, the Queen Margaret having provec to the work required. , The new vessel was built by Menzies, and her engine, of forty horses' power, by 1 Leith. Length, 98 feet, and breadth, 32 feet. She a very superior sea-boat, and renders this ferry one and easiest in the kingdom. She leaves the south hour, and the north side at the half hour, from sunris The William Adam was honoured by conveying Que and Prince Albert across the Frith, on her royal proj north, on the 5th September 1842. The day was mos the water unruffled ; the crowds on both shores very sea covered by numerous steamers and boats, gayly ac deed, the whole scene was calculated to make an \m\ speedily to be forgotten. It is understood that the So pressed the greatest satisfaction with all the arrangei on board the steamer. Mr Mason, the superintendei helm, while the attentive skipper, Charles Roxburgl to the other duties. Since the William Adam was put on the passage, L.2800, raised by subscriptions among the trustees, th ment has been greatly reduced, as the steamer, exc great cattle fairs, performs nearly the whole duty of tl There are, however, two large boats and two pinnaces, be used when required. The number of working han now only to sixteen, with a shore- master, clerk, and t at each side. The rental paid by the tacksmen a amounts to L.I880. It may be useful to notice the < tending the steamer on the passage, viz. three tons o: sumed per day, at 8s. 6d. ; oil for the engine per do. of a gallon ; cotton per month, half a hundred wei boilers require to be cleaned every fortnight, at 14s. the furnace bars are renewed every six months ; a q hundred weight of tallow is used per month ; and the ropes, &c. per week, may amount to L.I. The crew five men and a boy, whose wages amount to L.5, 5s It is pleasant to be able to speak of the correct and nagement of this ferry, when travellers know the very m they can procure a passage, and, by well regulated si^ LINLITHGOW. IS LINLITHQOWSU OD tbe water, secure the preseDce of a their arrival at the pier, where civil porfa with the establishmeDts od each shore, convenience of passengers, who may ct or twelve minutes. Bevised April 1843. PARISH OF ABE PBESBTTERY OF LINLITHSOW, SYNOD O: THE REV. LEWIS H. IRVI I. — Topography and Nati Name, Boondariet, ^c. — This parisl formerly Abercorne, from the ancient u The confluence of a rivulet, called the ' stream at the bottom of the high bank oi points out the probable origin of the a site of the monastery. The parish exteniis 4^ mites iti extr in extreme breadth, containing 7.03 squ angular figure, stretching east and west by Dalmeny; un the south, by Ktrkli nesed poriion of Dalmeny,) aod E^le Linlithgow and Carrideii ; and on the IK The surface is exceedingly diveraifiet to many picturesque undulations and i attains an elevation above 350 feeL 1 ceived the name of hills, Binns hill and mer, st the western extremity of the pi mit : insulaled and rising with uninterr although of no great height, it commac niiicent view of the shores of the Ft country, with a boundisg amphitheatr Grampian, Ochil, Pentland, and Can hill, on the south border of the parish trap- rock, surrounded on three sides b ABERCORN. ting them on rs, connected comfort and ossing in ten rWEEODALE* ime, written .ebercurnig* ith another ircb stands, itive of the id 2^ miles is of a rect- on the east lie, (an an- he west, by th of Forth, ti broken in- to part of it )ne have re- . The for- to the sum- om the sea, ve and mag- :irGumjacent med by the Priestinch ous mass of : called the Priestinch. Its altitude is inconsiderable. The sui flat, of an oval form, and has been rudely fortified al period. The shore is clayey, intersected at several rangfes of rock : near hicrh water-mark, the beach is rolled stones and boulders of greenstone. The bo seaward, the tide receding a great way, but inland th abruptly, presenting a steep, though not precipitous . to 100 feet high. The line of coast, extending abo is of singular beauty. Seen from the terraces and ously conducted along the heights, — a series of irre^ tones with receding bays and steep undulating banks trees to the water's edge, except where a few gre< winding glades occur, just sufficient to break the uni wood, — form a rich foreground to the varied views shore, and flood beyond. Meteorology^ — The average temperature for sevent tained from a register kept by Mr Smith at Hopetc Hydrography. — The Frith of Forth is here ab broad, the water is much discoloured from the parti pable mud suspended, and prevented from subsiding of the tides and winds. The degree of saltness is r lower than that found nearer the mouth of the Frith, are perennial, but neither frequent nor very abun chiefly from the coal measures ; they are more or with iron and sulphuretted hydrogen. One spring 1: medicinally, but its qualities are by no means powerf have not been analyzed. There are several artificial ter of small extent, two of them employed as mill-pon( are ornamental. The only streams are mere rivulets the Midhope, or Nethermill burn, rises in the parij gow, about seven miles from its mouth, entering this south -west angle ; it flows easterly through a deep and reaches the coast a few hundred feet below the joined near the sea by the Cornie bum, a still sn Blackness burn, which separates Abercorn from Car Linnmill burn, which divides it from Dalmeny, both and neither of them above one mile and a-half in le the slender hydrography of the district. Geology. — The strata are much deranged and intc prevailing direction is from north-east to south-west 30 LlNLtTHfiOWSHIHE. north-westerly, the angle varying from 5 t most remarkable disturbance is seen in the r of the NethermiU bum. The rocks are I limestone, &c. of the coal-formation, with trap, 8uch as Btnns hill, Priestinch bill, and ler eileoL The limestone occurs denudec eastern portions of the parish ; the stratum i ^vered with an alluvial deposit of gravel, cb fossil shells, and beautiful impressions of fei in the accompanying shales. Coal appears, the south and south-west districts, but the se plored, are of minor importauce. Calcspaf fissures of the limestone, but the crystals ar canL The general alluvial deposits consist gravel and rolled stones. The bank on which t some othem near the coa^t, seem to be com beds of sand. The soil is varied, — loam on most prevalent aspect ; the loam is shallow, peculiar localities. Boulders of greenstone, ' are occasionally met with. A small coal mi few years past at Priesttnch, close to the neighbnurbood of which the coal crops out, west At an angle of 20°. The seams are i being eighteen inches, and the under one ti nesB, separated by three feet of shale, a band mches thick. Bolb seams of coal are soft a one is used as smithy coal, and yields the b< Zoolofft/. — An otter {Lutra tmlgaru) was in the Nelhermill bum. The Hopeloun di 118 acres, is stocked with between 200 am deer, (CervvM dama.) Squirrels (Sciuna va woods. The weasel {Muitela vtilffiirit) is ^M.erminea) and the po\ecAt {Af,ptitm-iut) The seal {Phoea vitulina,) and the porpoise occasionally visit the shores. Sir Robert capture of a whale, in 169'2,at Abercorn,of I {RonpiaKt boTealit), measuring 7B feet Ion] the Forth for twenty years, and from a perfi by a ball, was known by the name of the (ox {Vulpea vtlgorit) is tolerated id the e bareaare numerous, and of late yean> the m rees. The r the mouth >De9 shaleSf masses of ree of smal- ;entral and feet thickf [led stones; been found ironstone in ir as yet ex- tant in the id insignifi- mixed with stands, and gravel and ottom is its hollow and everal tons, cisted for a mal, in the ) the north - upper one es in thick- >nstone, four ! ; the lower I >• le years ago extending to id of fallow- >ound in the The stoat rarely found. a Phoccena) nentions the back speciesy bad infested its dorsal 6n pike." The r the chase ; >f rabbits ba» ABERCORN. become a nuisance. Buildings are much infested wi rat {Mus decumanus) and the common mouse (A whilst the black rat (M. rattus) and the short-tailei (Arvicola agrestis) are not plentiful. The pheasao Colchicus) has been introduced, and has multiplied < the preserves; the partridge {Perdix cinerea) is n yfoodcocks(Scolopax Rusticolay)sm\ie (S. Gallinago)^ j (Anas Boschas) are still rarer* The cuckoo is a yearl the woods are alive in summer with the notes of the thrush, and the cooing of the wood-pigeon. The common to the climate are plentiful ; the numbers < thrush or storm-cock (Tvrdug vucivorua) have latt< ereaseA During the protracted severity of the wintc mencement of 1838, a male blackbird was repeatc whose plumage had become snow-white, with the e few speckled feathers. The crested lapwing ( Vane^ the dottrel {Charadrius Morinellus)^ and the grey pi rola cinerea) J are frequent. The shores are peoph of waders, consisting of plovers, gulls, {Larusfusc%8^ and L. eannSf) and the lesser auk {Alca Torda.) which the heron {Ardea cinerea) seeks his food in An exterminating warfare is waged agaipst the cr hawks, and owls, but the various races contrive still i veral years ago a pair of black swans {Cygnus atratu Holland were placed in a pond near Hopetoun Ho repeatedly : but the female having been unfortunat one winter bv a fox, the male bird remains the sole pool. Salmon (Salmo salnr^) and its congeners i and & albusj) approach the coast when the season advanced. Skate {Raia Batis^) and flounders (Pk are frequently caught, soles (Solea vulgaris) occi sometimes, but very rarely, sturgeon (Accipenser Sti The common muscle (Mtuculus edtdis) is found able quantities. Formerly some attention was paid tion and preservation of the scalps, so as to furnish i for -white-fishing, but they have been now long neg cuttle fish (Sepia vulgaris) is at times cast ashore. Botany. — From the small portion of the land tl in ^, state of nature, the botanist has but a narrow portion to the extent of surface. The sea-shore a bouriDg water-courses furnish the following Vv£^.^^^ LINUTIlCOWalllH Grimmia luucopbca I Trees of many kinds have been ext thrive well, particularly beech, elm, oak, chestnut, Scot!;, silver, and s))ruce fir, and wood are penetrated and rendered acces^iibl rides and green glades, whose windings anc exquisite glimpses of forest scenery. The chiefly formed dnring the early part of last but few traces of great age. The cedar tn the Hopetoun pleasure-grounds are well t their size and b;^auty. Planted only in 17' nieasures 15 feet 7^ inches in girth, and 8 tremities of iti; branches. The increase ol within the last thirty years. In the same g nut tree {Pagut cattanea) measures 13 feet beech 14 feet 4 inches in circumference, silver firs [Abies picea,) planted early in t markable, several being nearly 100 feet h (Liriodendrou tulipifira) are of considerab flower. The hemlock spruce {AbieiCanao duced, and grows vigorously. To the east quarry, a plane tree (^Aeer pteudo-platima,] is more notable for the number of its sprea ground it covers than for the thickness of betwixt the extremities of its boughs being gigantic ash trees (Fraxinua exceUior,) of ui ancient boundary of the parish churchyard. 16 feet in girth. Their hoary trunks an monumental of generations long since pai slumbers at their feet. In an arboretum ai at Hopetoun House are several Scots fin great size and picturesque fomi, and grt trees ; amongst others, the Cedrut deodara ABERCORN. ntedy and limoy and masses of rection bv 3rd many lave been there are fibani) in ice, from t already 1 the ex- en 5 feet et chests an aged h of the ry, is re- lip trees *equently en intro- e, near a in girth, i and the distance range of larks the measures imbs are lose dust ) gardens estris) of is exotic r mirinda from the Himalaya. One of the latter, a very grac€ a few years old, has attained the height of 20 feet ; \ vigorous specimens in various parts of the grounds are being grafted on the common spruce fir. A Siberian cimbra Siberica) in one of the flower-borders, is remar peculiarity of its form and the tardiness of its grow vigorous thickly-thatched head, it is only 5^ feet h trunk'-but a few inches in diameter, though nearlj years old. II. — Civil History. Historical Notices. — The Monastery of Aebercui than once mentioned by Bede, and appears to have be establishment of early date. In the latter part of century, it formed the residence of a bishop, at a ] Whitherne in Galloway was the only other Episcopa of the Forth. In 696, when Aegfrid, King of the Noi whose kingdom included the Lothians, was slain in I northern Picts, Trumuini^ who then held the see, de< corn too near the Pictish kingdom of Fife, forsook th with his followers.* Trumidniy of whom Bede speaks ' was in all likelihood a Culdee bishop, as the papal a then but little influence in Scotland. The Castle a Abercorn were possessed by Walter Avenale in the n twelfth century; and in 1176, a dispute took place son, John Avenale, and Richard, second Bishop of I garding the patronage of the parish, the monastery extinct As might be expected in those days, the < prelate was triumphant. In 1460, the whole churc longing to the Bishop of Dunkeld on this side of including Abercorn, Cramond, Preston, and Abe erected into one barony, called the barony of Aberla thirteenth century, the estate of Abercorn passed by on the possession of the Graemes, and was held by the John the Graeme, the friend of Wallace, killed in hi the English at Falkirk July 2-2d 1298. The estate quently the property of the Black Douglases. Aberc a strong natural position, partook of the fortunes of house. Repeatedly attacked during a period peculiarl it was besieged by James II. in 14.55, and taken by si 6tlt^ April.f The Earl's retainers were put to the * B«la, Hi»t. W. 26. t Godsoroft, p. 203, fbUa 24 I.INLITHGOWS the rastle cleatrojed. Buchanan speal in his time. It was never rebuilt. T the Crown on Claud Hamilton, the 6 son to the Earl of Arran. Forfeited fi tunes of Mary, it was restored to liis in 1606 Earl of Abercorn. From this f to the Mures, Lindsays of the Byres, by Sir Walter Seton in 1678 to John Earl of Hopetoun. The estate had few acres, but had the sheriffship of until the abolition of heritable jurisdici Eminent Men. — Thomas Dulyell o army, and for some years at the head was born iu this parish in 16)5. His nished scope for the sarcastic pen of S« tain Cretghton, while the public histoi an important element in the narrative of Scotland. Undaunted courage, an his sovereign, form almost the sole re< dolent of cruelty. Hediedat Edinburgh erected in 162.'}, is attached lo the chur< ture there is no record. His portrait, wi Binns House. John Dundas of Philp for the Church, and the author, of the Assembly, published in 1721, was a at prietor and elder within its boimds. . toun, whose character conferred a lust held, was born at Hopetoim House in soldier belongs to the history of the I his military career as General Sir Johi The Corunna dispatch, written- when on the death of Sir John Moore, a mingled grief and glory, is well-know He was, however, not less remarkable i order, and all the milder graces of pr and capability in the 6eld. Created I dry in 1814, he succeeded his brother toun, in 1616. On his retirement frc himself, among other avocations, to county over which he presided as Ia assiduous and punctual attention to all ABBRCOUN* $einidiruta arx" s conferred by Paisley, third nee to the for- w VI., created 3d successively and was sold ?r to the first that time to a ttached to ie^ reneral in the in Scotland, ntricities fur- noirs of Cap- Daly ell forms I of the Kirk 3d fidelity to 3 in a life re« family vault, laceof sepul- i preserved at e, procurator •f the Acts of *n, and a pro- arl of Hope- 1 the rank he iputation as a vhose details y interwoven, he command that day of 10 comment, mts of a high for courage Baron Nid- ilarl of Hope- , he devoted siness of the . and by his ' county mat- ters, produced a very marked amelioration. In the functions devolving upon him as a magistrate, a parent, his intellectual endowments and high pers< integrity, love of order, and benevolence, together and unaffected kindliness of his deportment, inve£ beneficial moral influence, of great power and wi sudden and comparatively premature death was fel lamity, and his memory is still deeply venerate Paris, August 27th 1823. His remains have bee red in a cemetery of Saxon architecture near the ( the statue in bronze erected in St Andrew's Squs two portraits of this Earl, painted by Raeburn, ha' ly placed in the county halls at Linlithgow and C his Majesty George IV. visited Hopetoun Hous^ his embarkation for England. This tribute of esteem was as singular as it was justly earned ; th< toun being the only private individual so honoi King's sojourn in Scotland. Land'owners. — The old valuation of the pai L.6945, 7s. Scots, now divided between two propi of Hopetoun, who possesses L.6212, ds. Scots of the trustees of the late Sir James Dalyell, Bart. < property within the parish is valued at L.7dd, 4 Hopetoun estate is an aggregation of smaller pro at various periods, such as Philpstoun, Stoneyhil formerly possessed by branches of the house of D vie, the property of a family of Durhams; Midhop of the Earls of Linlithgow ; Craigton, possessed 1 and Duddingstoun, lately the property of Gabriel das, Esq. Parochial Registers, — The parochial records i The minutes of kirk-session reach from 1691 to tl with the exception of the years from 1737 to 175( ing which a protracted vacancy occurred. The regi commences with the year 1 585 ; some of the earl: however, imperfect The record of marriage pre that of deaths are complete from 1700. The mil Revolution have been, Alexander Dalgleish, ind John Brown in 1700 ; Henry Lundie in 1740, Edinburgh in 1758; John Richie in 1759; Hu, D. D., Professor of Church History in the Uni^ burgh, inducted in 1791 ; aivd vVv^ y^^^^vX.\^oxc S6 LINLITHOOWS Antiquiliet. — The Roman wall, or necting the Friths of Forth and Clyd vriters the wall of Abercom ; it is, whether that line of defence extended bald, indeed, writing from hii own obt survey, says, that the wall passed Abe " laird of Maner's windmill," which oi at the commencement of the easte House, where traces of escarpment art ever, states that the wall terminated i distant about two Roman miles from nig.f This language would apparen the Feanfahel or " head of the wall." may have been at some period continu the*' windmill knowe." No light hash the discovery of monuments or inscrip monastery have wholly disappeared ; b< and a mass of deep black loam, of lim the church, are the only traces hithei castle of Abercom is marked by a gn been carefully removed at the dictate the Hopetoun pleasure-grounds were i was singularly strong, accessible from high ground, but surrounded on all o The socket of an ancient cross, occupy exhumed last year, in altering the wei the removal of an ouUbuilding, the si and converted into an obscure window ble are elaborately carved with arabes bling ihe crosses at lona. Midhope derable age, is in tolerable preservati' turretted tower, with a cumbrous ad side. The old doorway bears above J. L. in cipher, the initials of the tht lithgow. An oak stair, of massive wo to the upper stories of the house, inhi Manswn-Hou$et. — Binna House, a ing, garnished with turrets and embras the western slope of Binns hilL It wa: by the late proptietor. The park an • Sibbcld'i Hlttotkd InquiriM, p. 31. ABERCORN. mi," con- I bj some 3f dispute 3bert Sib- t's former ted at the eminence lopetoun Hie, how- ^nneltuDi, lebercur- ikness as * outwork as far as ubject by IS of the buildings icinity of e of the s having ng when situation r neck of p banks, tion, was ; and by lutilated, ides visi- f, resem* of consi- a square the east le letters of Lin- es access >f build- )laced on enlarged iresque ; 12. the grassy acclivities of the hill being interspersed wit! trees aud groups of evergreens. The summit is crow high round tower, forming a conspicuous land-mark, stoun House, a modern erection, of a heavy castellated stands on high ground in the south-east of the parish mands an extensive view. Hopetoun House, the principj of the family of that name, holds a pre-eminent place mansions of the land. Originally planned by Sir Wil of Kinross, it was commenced in 1696, but not comj many years after, under the superintendence of Mr A( front is very extended, consisting of a corpidelogis^ wit wings terminating in octagonal dome-roofed towers, anc with the body of the house by sweeping colonnades, tects have sedulously avoided all prominence in the mi enhancing materially the genen^^l effect. The decorati< not obtrusive, are yet sufficiently rich and numerous heaviness or insipidity. The stables, contained in the are on a scale of princely magniBcence. The internal dations are extensive, although convenience has been sacrificed to the production of an imposing facade. ' is rich in early specimens of printing, and illuminated manuscripts. An ample collection of paintings has be including works of many ancient masters, both of tl and Italian schools. Occupying an elevated plateau view, from the house eastward, embraces the opening o: with its picturesque shores and rocky islets. North Be closing the vista. The grounds within the plaisance high order, formerly laid out after the French symme The more formal arrangement has been broken dov quaint dipt yew-trees and grassy terraces have been spared, to soften the transition from the style of the ho architectural accompaniments, to the irregularities oi outliue, characteristic of the more modern alterations, dens are extensive, well sheltered, and of varied exposi and successful pains are bestowed on their culture, within the grounds, more especially along the verge o; sea bank, abound in interesting views, whilst the abi tall evergreens renders the bleak aspect of a Scottish perceptible. The eastern and principal approach p the centre of an open levelled esplanade, but the we through an overarching avenue of noble elmS| forcibly 28 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. the hypotbedo origin of the lon^-drawn aisles and fretted of the Gothic or Saracenic architecture. IIL — Population. Males. Females. The population of this parish was, id 1755, 419 496 1792, . 451 1801, . ^ 1811, . „ 1821, . ^ lasi, . ^ 1832, 493 In the census of 1841, the population isstated to be 2147 extraordinary increase arose from the residence of about bourers during the formation of the Edinbui^h and Glas wav. From the record of baptisms, it would appear that the | population was more numerous in the close of the sevent tury than at any subsequent period ; the annual avera^ for ten years being then about 39, whereas, for the te ceding 179Q, it hardly reached 20, and is now b Probably the obliteration of several farms, in order parks and ornamental grounds in the vicinity of Ho may explain the decrease. Number of persons residing in the Tillages, country, IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — Total number of imperial acres, under tillage, or laid down in grass and subject cultivation, under wood, never cultivated, consisting of bog or steep ba occupied by roads, railway, canal, and beach, There is no natural wood, but the extensive p) nearly one-sixth of the whole surface, abounr well-thriven trees. Much attention has in f thinning and pruning, and the surrounding f cellent repair. The rent of land in cultiv 15s. to L.2, lOs. The annual rent of grazir Wages. — Rate of country labour per d and in winter, Is. 6d. ; wages of artisans winter, 2s. The prices of raw produce are in great measure determined by the Edinburgh and its neighbourhood. Son? stowed in the improvement of the catt' the Teeswater breed. The husbandr ABBRCOllN. 29 kept pace with th6 general improvement in method and farming implements common to the country. Furrow-draining, both with stones and tiles, is of late becoming frequent, and from the gene- rally retentive nature of the subsoil, the results are most beneBciaL Stones fit for drains abound in all directions, and drain tiles are easily procured from the manufactory at Blackness, distant but a short way from the boundary of the parish. The general dura- tion of leases is nineteen years. The grass parks are let from year to year. The farm- buildings are by no means showy, al« though commodious and in good condition. Quarries and Mines, — Several quarries of excellent freestone, in various parts of the parish, have been occasionally wrought from a very remote date. The stone is durable, and well adapted for building. The quarries in the northern and central districts yield a stone varying in hue from a cream colour to a palish-gray ; in the south and south-west, a hard durable freestone is procured of an intensely dark-gray, approaching to black. Both admit of being wrought for ornamental purposes. Hopetoun House fur- nishes a very favourable specimen of the lighter variety, whilst the dark has been employed in the erection of the house and offices at Duddingston. A quarry of trap, on the north face of Priest- inch Hill, opened by the Road Trustees, affords the best material for roads in this vicinity. Limestone has been extensively exca- vated in the central and south-eastern parts of the parish. The workings are of great age ; and it is traditionally reported, that the lime used in the once famous fortifications of Dunkirk was obtained from Abercorn. The stone is still quarried in consider- able quantities on the farm of Newton, giving work to about ten men. It is of a dark gray colour, but becomes pure white when calcined, being very free from foreign ingredients, with the exception of carbon. It becomes so extremely friable in the pro- cess of burning as to unfit it for the draw-kiln. The method re- sorted to is that styled the sow-kiln. Its purity renders the lime fitter for agricultural purposes than for building.r The bed of limestone measures 10 feet in thickness, and the depth of the alluvial covering varies from 15 to 35 feet, whose removal add» very considerably to the expense of working. The lime sells at 2s. 6d. per boll of six imperial bushels. The coal mine, near Prie^tinch, is of small extent, and without peculiarity. The num- ber of people employed is about seventeen. The water is drawn off by a small steam-engine. 31 LIXLITHQOWSm FUkery. — The odIj Bshery is at thi Burn, where very extensive stake-nets a of salmon. This station was once toh in the latter months of the fishing seasi quantity taken has diminished material right of fishing from the proprietors ol The rent paid to proprietors within 1 yearly. During several months, nearly Amount of Raw Produce. — The folio to the gross amount of raw produce yeai Produce of gnin of ill kmdi, potaloo, turnip*, &0. h.y. Uod in puture. . ■nnuBl thinniog of wood, fiiherj, (««j) Told) nnnual trIdc of rair produce. The annual rent of real properly, as ass< The burning of lime is the only bra the exception of the ordinary country two corn-mills driven by water, and a sa the Earl of Hopetoun, on the Netherm utility of which is very apparent, from plantations, and the quantity of full-grow V. — Parochial Eco Means of Communication.— "Vhe ne South Queensferry, distant three anda-h; about six miles from the church of Aben most accessible post-town lo the great bull municacion by a private runner takes plat neither medical prnutitioner, general men within the parish ; the villages of Newton, being mere hamlets, and furnishing merf groceries. The cluster of houses near t led a village. The turnpike road from Q traverses the parish for nearly four and t are statute-labour roads. These, togeth the rivulets and canal, are kept in good walls are frequent, but the most prevale dry stone dikes, which are efficiently n Canal passes through the south ^rt boundary, affording the most accessJbl I r LiDD^mill le capture ^ at least years, the holds the of coast, out L.60 mployed* )xiaiatioa L.7722. ire, with lere are cted, by spective t of the 'ns are, lithgow, iv is the s'; com- There is butcher pstoun, ops for be cal* lithgow ) others t across id lime :es and Union iar its 5 con- ABBRCORN. • veyance ; and the line of the Edinburgh and Glasgow runs alongside, and in some parts but a few yards distar canal. No harbour or quay exist, but small vessels wit load their cargoes on the beach, in the bay at Society ; stone is some times exported in the same manner. Ecclesiastical State. — The church stands near the the north boundary of the parish, and close to the sea si situation is tolerably convenient, being about three miU extreme points, while the greater part of the populal within two miles. Part of the church is very ancient ; 1 its original erection is, however, unknown ; it was en fitted up soon after the Reformation, some of the old bearing a. d. 1579. Built at various periods without gard to convenience or beauty, the form is most irreguli accommodation was wretched until 1838, when a thoro took place. Being now drained, floored, the walls hti heated air apparatus constructed, it forms a comfortabi worship, nearly adequate to the wants of the communit are no sittings let, the whole, with the exception of t seats of the heritors, being allotted to the parishior church bell, of considerable size, and handsome wo] presented by a naval gentleman, was formerly the bell ( ship of war, and formed part of the spoil at the battle hagen. Part of the manse is of an unknown date ; add been made to it at various times ; it was last altered ar in 1832. The garden is large, walled, and product glebe contains between five and six acres, and might 1( a»year. The stipend consists of the following itemi wheat (old measure,) 4^^ ; barley, 92^^; meal, 16 192g| ; money, L.50 ; for communion elements, L.8, 6: the whole may average L.240. There is no disseutin worship in the parish ; the nearest is at Queensferry. bers belonging to different denominations were in 1832 nor have the proportions much altered since : Establish^ 192 families; 948 persons of all ages; Seceders, 12 d< Episcopalians, 1 do ; 2 do. The church attendance is A communion- roll, embracing all the members, has since 1832, and regularly revised by the kirk-session the dispensation of the Lord's Supper, which takes pla year. The number on that roll is at present 390 ; 1 number of communicants at each time, is 350. The k 32 LINLITHOOWI consisting of the minister and seven past, revived the custom, once mainli tag slated diets For prayer once a-m a benefit in many respects. A pare ed since I83S, whose funds are eqt Bchenies of the Church of Scotland. . with the subject is held monthly, and ject and success of inissianar}' euterf institution. The disposable funds at butioiis, L..ti; four collections at churt tributed as above, L.24. The ordinary collections aod don yearly to L. 62, which, with L. I8r gives L.80 as the average sum coUec all purposes. Education. — I'here are two schools school, and one exclusively for girls, of Hopetnun. In the parish school, tl are receiving instruction in reading, arithmetic, and geography. A few are Greek, and French. The school is opi 'J'he Bible is employed as a class-book, universally taught. The number in att boys. The explanatory system is »i female school, the children are insti English grammar, and geography. Catechism are employed daily, and th number of pupils is about 70, all of w Sabbath school, under the personal sup and elders, has e&isted for some years Classes of male and female catechuni Sabbaths by the minister, averaging from the age of thirteen to twenty. T permitted to retire a few years ago, re the maximum, L.fM,4s.4^. for life, is now supported, in part, by priTate sl school-fees, the house, garden, the inte and the emoluments of the sessions amount to, subscriptioni, L.17 ; interei salary, &c. L.6; school-fees, about L.i average emoluments derivable from tl ABERCORN. seven jearm isb, of bold* ictice proves i bas exist- among the 'i connected it in the ob- le since its r in contri- ; inalldis- >or amount collections, h doors^for e parochiaf ) Countess the pupils grammar, icsy Latin, ith prayer, Catechison BO, chiefly . At the r, writing, 1 Shorter ient. The ) sew. A e minister children* alternate f females, aster wa& which is successor :eives the ti6cation, ese may n-clerk's Is. The sire, sub- scription, L.14; school-fees, about L.20; total, L.d^ per legal accommodation is furnished to the pared and the teacher of the female school has a school-nx bouse, and garden, secured to her. The expense varies from 88. to L. 1 annually, according to the branc About 12 children of the poor are educated gratui kindness of the heritors. Literature. — A parochial library was established contains now 260 volumes of useful miscellaneous re charge is 3s. annually, and about fifty families avail t the advantage. A juvenile religious library of 180 \ tached to the Sabbath school : the books, furnished collection some years since, are given out gratis. J ciety existed for a number of years, but unfortunatel; began to diminish rapidly, from a deficiency of new and the funds were lately divided amongst the subsci Poor and Parochial Funds. — The opulent fami along shown much attention to the wants of their si dependents, thereby limiting the demands on the The number of paupers on the roll is, at an average on whom depend 7. Occasional relief is afforded The highest annual rate of relief to regular paupers the lowest, L.2, 18s. No assessment has ever existc venue is derived from the following sources : average ( L.62, lOs. 6d. ; interest on a mortification and mc L.17, 185. 6d. ; total, L.80, 9s. Deducting session-cl tor's, Synod and Presbytery clerk's fees, and sexton's ds. 6d.,.there remains for relief of the poor, L.67, 6s. € sum of L.19 is paid by the heritors, in voluntary sut the board of a lunatic A strong feeling of honest i prevails, leading the people to strain every effort ra cei?e habitual relief. Some striking instances of tl come to the writer's knowledge. Inns, — Besides a small inn at Society, there are thi some of which might be beneficially dispensed with. Fuel — Coal is almost exclusively the fuel employ April 184a LINLITHGOW. PARISH OF TORPHICHEN. PUESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWREDDA THE REV. WILLIAM M. HETHERINGTON, MINISTI L — TOPOGBAPHY AND NaTUBAL HiSTORY. Name. — The Dame of this parish is evidently Celtic in its < ^in ; but etymologists are by no means agreed with regard to tfiie composition and meaning. The word Tor is unquestionr hill; but the latter part of the name is more doubtful. Som' sert it to mean /en, and say that it refers to a range of hills ' vicinity having ten summits. The range, however, has no than seven distinct summits ; and the Gaelic word fichead twenty^ not ten^ as they assume. The most probable d' seems to be Torfeochan^ or the hill of the Ravens. It m giirded as some corroboration of this meaning that tb estate in the neighbourhood of the village named Craw that the crest of the most extensive land proprietor in is a raven chained to a rockj as if in allusion to the par Boundaries^ Extent^ 6fc. — Torphichen is bounded by Linlithgow ; on the south by Bathgate, and pa on the west by part of Shotts and New Monklanr north by part of Slaroannan and Muiravonside. Its is about 10 miles from east to west, and its greate "2^1 miles. In one part the breadth is less than a n about 10,429.77 English acres; and about 16.t' Topographical Aspect. — The eastern part of agreeably diversiBed by a succession of woody terraces, and cliffy ridges, as it ascends towards of hills by which it is divided from Bathgate the east. The ridge immediately above the « arly picturesque appearance when viewed fron of a succession of rounded summits swelling^ a as if some enormous ocean-tide had been solid earth throughout the continuous swee^ 4 TORPHICHBN. 35 ings. The western side of this beautiful ridge slopes gradually down into softer undulations, in the midst of which are situated the village, the church, and the Preceptory of Torphichen. The dis- trict around the village is both fertile, and presents a pleasing and remarkable diversity of picturesque aspects, as viewed from vari- ous points, through clusters of woody ridges, and green trees, and craggy cliSs of trap, till it sinks away into the hollow through which flows the small stream, the Loggie. From thence it again ascends into a sort of bleak upland, composed chiefly of stoney elevations with a clayey subsoil, interspersed by long stripes and flats of heathery bogs, and wet marshes, covered deep with peat moss. The highest hill in the parish is that central one of the Bath- gate and Torphichen range, called Cairn-naple, or Cairn- paple, which is just included within the angle of its eastern boundary, — its height is stated to be 1498 feet. Towards the north the bound- ary-line skirts the base of Cockleroi (perhaps Cachil-righ^ the King's chair)^ which is considerably lower ; and includes Bowden- hill, which terminates the range in that direction. From the sum- mit of any of th6se hills, especially Cachil-righ, may be obtained a prospect scarcely surpassed by any in Scotland for extent, beauty, and magnificence, — reaching from North Berwick Law to the dis<- tant cloud-crowned Ben Lomond, and including the view of Edin- burgh with its castle, Salisbury Craigs, and Arthur's' Seat, the bays and windings of the Forth, ^' studded with islets and alive with sails," — the rich and varied scenery of the Fifeshire coast, with all its numerous villages and spires and towns, — the wavy outline and the deep indentations of the massy Ochils, the fertile carse-land of Falkirk, the gray towers of ancient Stirling, and the sky- piercing peaks of the majestic Grampians. Behind the mansion-house of Craw-hill, on the banks of the river Avon, which are deep, rocky, and wooded, there is a chasm commonly called Wallace's cave ; and close adjoining it there is a natui'al arch in the living rock of very considerable size, within the deep clefts of which there are some beautiful and rather rare varieties of lichens and mosses. The climate is unquestionably good, though rather cold. The air is pure and bracing, particularly in the eastern division of the parish ; and even in the more upland and moorish districts west- war4} there are no such exhalations as to be noxious to the health of the inhabitants* 36 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. Hydrography. — There are only two mineral springs desen of notice as such. At the westward base of the Kipps>hiU th is one said to be impregnated with TitrioL On the estate of W house, and about a mile west from the village, there is a chalybe spring, which formerly enjoyed some reputation as a tonic, but fallen into neglect, so that even its position is scarcely kno^ Several other springs exhibit traces of mineral impregnation! I of no very decided character. On the very boundary of the Cathlaw estate, nearly due e from the Preceptory, there is a very strong spring of deliciou tasted pure water, called St John's well ; to which it is said I Knights of St John used to go in days of yore for a morni draught Whether its virtues were meditinal, or of a more hi lowed character, tradition cannot exactly inform us ; but still waters are thought to possess peculiar healing powers, if not si rarer qualities, which operate in various cases as a charm. N it stood a stone, in some way connected with the well, and on very limits of the parish. There is a beautiful little lake at Lochcote, about a mile north-east of the village, in the hollow formed by the sur ing hills of Bowden, Cachil-righ, and Kipps. It covers a' JEnglish acres. Formerly it discharged its surplus wat' stream from its north-west end, which formed a singular led the eel-ark. From this pool it ran under ground for 200 yards, when it again burst upwards like a strong continued its course into the Avon. This romantic li^ drained by a late proprietor, who thereby lost a g beauty, and gained a few acres of deep, ill-reclaimed, arable marsh. The present proprietor (Joseph Hum with great taste, determined to restore the lake, consic^ tiful sheet of water more truly valuable as an ornan? gant mansion on its margin, than could be the a^ much muddy soil and rank vegetation. The little river Avon flows along the north b phichen, dividing it from the parish of Muiravor gie is a much smaller stream than the Avon, intc forms the boundary between Torphichen and ral miles ; but though its channel is considera is not adorned with scenery of particular inte Geology and Mineralogy, — The most pe tures of the parish are to be found in the e TORPHICHfiN. 37 the Bathgate range of hills. That range is chiefly composed of trap-rock as its central mass, with successive strata of limestone, carboniferous shale, coal, sandstone, and thick beds of clay, gra- vel, and other alluvial deposits. The ridge seems to have been produced by igneous agency, upheaving the superincumbent stra- ta, bursting through them in the centre, in some places overly- ing them, in others rending them asunder and thrusting them aside till it displayed the disturbing material in various aspects, .occa- sionally in that of columnar trap. The dip of the superincum- bent strata is accordingly very steep, in some places almost per- pendicular, in others a foot in five or six, and gradually diminish- ing till it reach the level of the adjoining country. The pic- turesquely undulating range of the Torphichen hills, already de- scribed, is also composed of trap; and where it has b^en decom- posed around their sides and bases, or in hollows, it has formed a peculiarly rich and fertile soil, though of no great depth. On the Hilderston hills, on the west side of the Bathgate ridge, there is a coal mine, the mouth of which must be at least 800 feet above the level of the sea. This height has been manifestly caused by the upheaving. of the ridge where the trap forced its way from be- neath, raising in its passage the superincumbent^strata, as the mine is worked in from the top where the coal crops out. Nearly oppo-^ site, on the eastern shoulder of the same hill, there is a limestone quarry, in which many shells are found, chiefly ammonites, some of which are unusually large. Some fossil fishes are also said to have been found. A coal mine has been recently opened in the hollow between the Kipp hills, the Torphichen wavy range, and the continuation of the Bathgate range, running through Cath-* law estate. The coal bed seems to lie in a kind of basin formed by these ridges, and can scarcely be expected to be very produc- tive or permanent from the nature of the situation. In Bowden hill is another limestone quarry, or rather mine, en- tered by a horizontal shaft in the side of the hill, and chambered out regularly, leaving columns to support the roof of what is be- coming an immense cave. Along the course of the Loggie burn there runs a chain of co- nical sand-hills, of such a regular figure, as to have led to the er- roneous popular belief that they are artiflcial, and have been rais- ed at some distant period as monumental mounds. They are, however, obviously natural, being composed entirely of fine sea- sand, washed together into regular heaps and banks by the actiocL as LINLITHOOWSHIRF. of water, at some period indcBnitely remote, when the whok ciunjacent country had not yet emerged from the depths of ocean. In the limestone quarry 6rst . mentioned, there was forno found a considerable quantity of silver ore, whence the plac still called the silver mine ; but the ore was not found to be et sufficient in quantity or rich enough in quality, to repay the pense of working it ; consequently that has been abandoned. There was also a coal mine on the property of Bridgecas about two miles and a-half west from Torphichen village, wb was wrought several years. Its quality is said not to have b very good, and it also has been neglected for some time, thoi it is reported that the present proprietor. Captain Hope, R. N., tends to open it again. Zoology and Botany. — There is nothing known of the zool of this parish meriting peculiar notice. In botany it is worth} more attention ; less, however, on account of its possession of v rare plants, than because nearly all the varieties of plants indi nous to the lowlands of Scotland, especially to trap distr may be found in it in a state of great perfection, and even ' almost peculiar ^to the Highlands. On Cathlaw estate tl copodium is found in great profusion ; as also the wild g* and some beautiful varieties of the polygala, or milkwort, are also some fine species of the orchis ; and the trap hil* Torphichen ridge abound with the common wild heart* greater profusion than can be seen almost any where else are also some rather rare kinds of mosses and lichens fo moorish districts, and among the rocky banks of the Ai exotic plants have been occasionally found on the Ki if naturalized, which are thought to have been broug' Sir Robert Sibbald in former davs. m The soil seems to be adapted to the growth of most any kind, as appears from the well-wooded as trict in the eastern division of the parish. Ther old trees of considerable magnitude around the m law, Lochcote, Wallhouse, and Bridgecastle ; hill and Hilderston hill there are some young very thriving condition, — indicating the possibilit were a system of planting adopted generally by f II. — Civil History. Almost the only account of the parish of T< TORPHICHEN. 39 ever been written or printed is to be found in Sir Robert Sibbaltf s History of the Shire of Linlithgow. There is also a somewhat confused account of it in a brief history of Linlithgowshire by the late John Penney, Esq. Information respecting its history and antiquities may also be gleaned from papers connected with the . family records of the different proprietors, particularly the Noble family of Torphichen. As these contain materials of some in- terest, it has been thought proper to bring them together so as to form a somewhat detailed and connected account. The civil history of Torphichen is so intimately connected with . that of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem,fwho had their Precep- torate, or chief site and regality there, thatashort account of thatmi- litary and monastic order of knighthood will be that of Torphichen itself. This celebrated order had its origin in the interval between the 6rst and second crusades, when, for the accommodation of the pilgrims who visited the Holy Sepulchre, especially of the sick among them, an hospital was built near the church, and dedicated to St John the Almoner. As they increased in numbers and in- fluence the brothers of the hospital first withdrew from the juris- diction of the Abbot of the Latin Church, and finally became in- dependent of the Patriarch of Jerusalem. This happened in the year 1104, which may be taken as the date of the commencement of the Order of St John of Jerusalem or Knights Hospitallers, as they are sometimes termed, in contradistinction to the Order of Templars. When Jerusalem fell into the hands of the Saracens the survivors of the Order were compelled to retire into Italy, where they obtained from Pope Innocent IV. a dispensation, ab- solving them from their original obligation, and permitting them to elect a Grand Master and other subordinate officers for their own government The same distinguished Order afterwards held possession of the Island of Rhodes, maintaining it against the Turks in the most brave and determined manner, during which they were generally called the Knights of Rhodes. When Rhodes finally was reduced by the Turks in 1522, the knights ob- tained possession of Malta in 1530, which they defended against their old antagonists the Turks, and in the defence displayed pro- digies of valour and military skill. The renown obtained by the Knights of St John gave rise to .several other orders of knighthood, of which the Templars were the chief. The templars, however, excited the indignation of Philip IV. of France by their licentiousness, or his cuijidit^ ^^ / 40 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. their wealth ; and were suppressed in the year 1312. Pr to their downfall they had acquired extensive possessions in kingdom in Europe, which were either seized upon by the reign, or transferred to the kindred order of St John* Ii manner, the lands of both t)rders came to belong to the Johani though in many instances they retained the name of Temple 1 from the Templars, as being the best known» though not the ancient and honourable order. As the Knights of St John had adherents, so they soon acqi possessions in every country in Europe. They were 6rst < blished in Scotland by David L or Malcolm IV. in the year 1 In the charter granted by that monarch there occur the follow words : ^' Qui in liberam et puram Eleemosynam donavit Fratr Hospitalis Hierosolymitani unum plenarium tofium in qual Burgd totius terrse suae/' l^is small foundation was greatly pHfied by additional grants from the succeeding kings, especi by Alexander II. and III., Robert II., and the Janieses II., I and IV. These sovereigns not only con6rmed the donatior their predecessors, but by new grants of lands, and by grar privileges, powers, rights of patronage, and civil immunities bestowed at length a competent revenue and territory, and f the dignities of the order into what was termed the Lorr St John and Preceptorie of Torphichen. The suppressic Templars tended greatly to augment the power of the K St John. By a canon of the Council of Vienna, and Pope Clement VII., the whole lands and possessic Knights Templars in Scotland were conferred upon t of St John of Jerusalen^ The former had had their Temple in Mid* Lothian, the latter at Torphichen tinned to remain their chief seat or Preceptory. their new acquisitions, however, retain the designati lands, but even their own original property canoe t the same name, which has caused considerable a attempts that have been made to discriminate be formerly held by the Templars and those held b St John. Several of the preceptors, priors, or grand phichen were men of great talent, and distinf in the public affairs of the kingdom. Ment ^'Archibaldus Magister de Torphichen," w charter of Alexander, Great Steward of Sco^ TORPHICHEN- 41 In the year 1298* whila the heroic Sir Winiam Wallace was Regent of Scotland, he held his head-quarters at the preceptory of Torphichen for some time previous to the battle of Falkirk, as appears from a charter granted by him as regent, conferring some lands at Dundee upon Alexander Scrimgepur, the royal standard- bearer, as a reward for his services, which charter is dated at Tor- phichen, the 29th day of March 129a* It would seem that the then preceptor had previously sworn fealty to Edward L of Eng- land, as did so many Scottish nobles, but redeemed his character for patriotism, and afterwards fell at the fatal battle of Falkirk, fought on the 22d of July I29a His name is given by Rymer as Alexander de Wells. The next Preceptor of whom particular mention is made was Sir William Knolles, who held the preceptorate about half a cen- turv, and was commonly designated Lord St John. He held the offices of Councillor and Treasurer in the reign of James IV., and was killed fighting by the side of that brave but rash monarch at Flodden Field in 1513. He was succeeded by Sir George Dundas, who had been the fellow-student of Hector Boetius at Paris, and was distinguished for his learning. Sir Walter Lind- say was the next preceptor, who also rose to distinction in the kingdom, and was appointed to the office of Justice- General of Scotland in the reign of James V. In Sir David Lindsay's <* Testament of Squyer Meldrum,'' he is mentioned in the follow-- ing laudatory terms : * *' Charta Domini Oulixlmi Wallack, Custodis Sootitt, Nomine Jobannis Baliol Regis cum rigillo cjusdem Jobaonis. ^* Willelmus Walays miles custos regni Sootis et ductor exercitus ejusdem nomine preclari principis domini Jobannis dei gratia Regis Scotia) illustris de consensu oom- munitatis ejusdem regni, omnibus probis bominibus dicti regni ad quos presens scrips turn penrenerit eternam in Domino salutem. Noverit univeraitas vestra nos nomine predicti domini nostri regis Sootis per consensum et assensum magnatUm dicti r^ni dedisse et coneessisse ac ipsa donationem et concessidnem presenta carti confijinasse Alexandro dicto Skirmiscbur sex marcatas terrae in territorio de Dunde. Scilicet terram nllam ^u« vocatur campus superior prope villaro de Dunde ex parte boreali cum acria ilHs in carapo occidentalL £t etiam pratum^egium in predicto territorio de Dunde cum suis pertinenciis, libertatibus, et asyamentis sine aliquo retinementa pro bamagis predicto domino regi et beredibus suis re\ suis suocesnoribus faoiendo, et pro fkleli senricio et succursu suo predicto regno impenso portando vexillum regium in exercitu Scotise tempore confectionis presentium. Tenend et babend pr^cto- Alexandro et beredibus suis de predicto domino nostro rege et beredibus suis vel saia successoribus libere, quiete, integre, pacifice, et bonorifice in perpetuum cum omni- Imu pertinenciis libertatibus et asyamentis ad dictam terram et pratum prenominatum et prefiitom constabularium spectantibus vel quoquo modo speotare TiUentibus in fu* tunim, iaciendo inde annuatim domino regi et beredibus suis Tel suis successoribus^ scilicet pro predictis terra, prato, et constabularia cum suis pertinenciis, libertatibus^ et asyamentis servicium quod pertinet ad dictam constabulariam tantum pro omnibus- qvm de predicti exigi poterunt in futurum. In cujus rei testimonium sigillum com« mune predicti regni Sootic present! scripto est oppositum, datum apud TonqkU««Scc ground, formerly inclosed within the moat, still bears the na ^^ the Knights' Garden,'' although it has long been cultivat the plough alone, and yielded no other produce than that coi to the adjacent fields. Notwithstanding the entire disappearance of the nave^ the i portion of the original building, there are no records, nor traditions of its having been demolished by any sudden bu popular violence. From any such fate it may have been prei by its falling entire into the hands of Sir James Sandilands, could have no interest in its destruction, and whose influenci the Reformers would be suflScient for its preservation. But ai der House very soon became the chief residence of the Torphichen, it was neglected, and, falling into decay, was m a quarry, whence stones might be procuredffor any necessary pose. That such was the case is evident from the fact, that houses in the village are built entirely of hewn stones, su size, form, and apparent age as those of the portion which it mains standing, while the greater part of the stone walls by the adjoining fields are subdivided are composed of exactly materials. In this manner have the walls of the nave been piece-meal at length entirely away. There was also, accor tradition, another house of some size and unknown antiquif close to one angle of the transept, a portion of which was s about eighty years ago, as the writer of this was informe old woman who died in 1837 at the age of eighty-nine, said to have been a separate tenement, built for the acct tion of the knights when their numbers had increased beyi the preceptory could conveniently contain. It communie the transept by a private door, which is still visible, thouf ly built up. While the lovers of antiquity must deplorr TORPHICHEN. 49 pidatioDs by which this ancient and very remarkable building has suJOTered so severely, it must be gratifying to know, as it is to re- cord, that it will be preserved henceforth from any such violence and desecration. Its present Noble proprietor, Lord Torphicheo, has with great good taste and judgment recently protected it from the wasting ravages of time and the weather by roofing it com- pletely anew, and closing the rents and chinks which here and there had deeply scarred its hoary and venerable walls ; so that re- mote ages may continue to contemplate the sole remaining monu- ment of what was once a mistaken, yet a. very gallant Order of vowed and consecrated warriors, many of whose exploits shed lustre on the darkness of the middle -ages, like the path of a meteor through the gloom of a lowering sky. In the interior of the transept or choir, at its south end, beneath one of the windows, is a curious arch, in the form of a canopy, about six feet in span, within which it is said the bodies of the knights were laid before interment, and during the performance of the funeral rites; and close beside it is a font for holy water. There is an antiquely carved stone, built into a comparatively mo- dern part of the inner wall on the west side, on which the follow- ing inscription may with difficulty, and perhaps also with some un- certainty, be read : *^ Gualterus Lindesay, Justiciarius Generalis de Scotland, et Principalis Preceptor Torphicensis, 1538." The inscription is in what is termed the black letter characters, and is embarrassed by several abbreviations ; but the above seems to be its true reading, as far as can be made out. In the churchyard stands a short square stone pillar, with the outline of a St John's or Maltese cross rudely carved on it. From this as from a centre was measured in ancient times the sanctuary of Torphtchen, which gave, at least, temporary protection to any person accused of crimes less than capital Its limits vfere mark- ed by four stones, each bearing the St John's Cross, erected as near as might be on the cardinal points, east, west, north and south, each a Scotch mile from the central stone in the church- yard adjoining the preceptory. They all still occupy their origi- nal positions. In a field adjoining tlie old peelAike mansion of Kipps, there are the remains of a Druid circle. The central stone, of a large Bize, probably the stone of sacrifice, still occupies its original po- sition, but has been split asunder, which tradition says was done by lightning. Some of the stones that formed the ca7i^<^ V^ic\^ LINLITHGOW. ^ to MNLITHOOWSHIRE. been broken and removed, in order to give place to the pi yet the outline of the circle nnay still be traced, which hai of considerable extent. There is an upright stone at nc distance, connected, probably, with this ancient place of su] tious worship, but of which the express use is not now know On the top of Bowden Hill are the traces of a camp, \ deep trench surrounding it. Some antiquarians term it a B camp ; but its circular, or rather oval shape, scarcely pern to be regarded as Roman. Some term it Danish, which least equally improbable, as this district was never peculiarly ject to the incursions of those invaders. Tradition gives i formation respecting it, and history is equally silent. O Lochcote Hills, in the immediate vicinity, there is a large and not Tar from it have been found several stone- coffins, i being opened, were found to contain human bones. A ver and uncertain tradition speaks of some bloody battles having fought in this neighbourhood, but states nothing as to the or the parties between whom the contest was waged. On the rising grounds above the Loggie Burn, there we veral stone coffins found a few years ago, of a very simph st ruction, being merely thin stones set on edge, to mar length and breadth of the grave, with one long flat stone laid upon them ; the bottom being merely the natural s£ which that ridge is composed. Nothing is known respectii time or cause of these sepultures, beyond the usual vague trs of battles in times immemorial. Bridge Castle still remains in nearly its original cor though shorn of its original splendour. It was formerly of the Earls of Linlithgow, and still shows remains of it importance in a few trees of great age and considerable w especially in height, by which it is partially surrounded. About two miles to the south-west, may, by diligent s discovered the ruins of the foundation of Ogilface Castle of the ancient family of De Bosco, Barons of Ogilface. length into the hands of the Earls of Linlithgow, anr fall of that family, ceased to exist as a barony, and portions to different proprietors, the chief of whom i Buchanan, Esq. It must have been a place of so though of no great size, as appears from the outline the foundation, as far as that can be still traced* Bedlormie has also been a place of considerable TORPHICHEN. 51 some strength. Its general structure resembles that of the Border peels, consisting of a single square tower, the under storey of which is constructed with a vault or stone arch, nearly 6re-proof, for greater security against sudden and desperate assaults. Such is also the structure of Kipps, on a smaller scale. Modem Buildings.— Of these there are none of any peculiar importance, except perhaps Wallhouse, the seat of W. D. Gil- Ion, Esq., and that at present being built by Mr Hume at Lochcote, which, when finished, will be an ornament to the dis- trict. There are of mills one for oats alone, one for oats and barley, two lint-mills, and two woollen-mills, all generally well employed. III. — Population. The census of 1841 may be taken, as giving an accurate view of the parish at present : Population residing in villages,— Torphichen, 490 ; Blackridge, 94, . 524 the country, about . . 893 1417 The average of births, deaths, and marriages cannot be exactly ascertained, owing to the migrations to, and connections with jother adjoining parishes, but may be estimated at about Births, 24; deaths, 16 ; marriages, 5, annually. The average number of persons under 15 years of age, . 505 betwixt lo and dO, . dS5 dJ and 50, . 259 5J and 70, . 143 above 70, . .68 There are no resident nobility, and very few families of inde- pendent fortune residing in the parish. The number of proprie- tors of land of the yearly value of L.50 and upwards, 25. IV. — Industry. Rent of Land, — The average rent of arable land, about L. I per acre ; average rent of grazing, L. 3 per ox or cow per annum. Wages. — Rates of labour average Is. 8d. per day summer; Is. dd. winter for men, and for women about lOd. summer and winter. Live-stock. — The breeds of sheep and cattle are of the common kind. A few of the Ayrshire cattle have been introduced, and some improvement in that respect is taking place. The chief im- provement in agriculture of which the district is susceptible, and which indeed it requires, is draining, much of the land being very wet. Some progress is making in this branch also ; but the want of .resident landholders, and of disposable capital, must tend greatly to ^impede agricultural improvement. The general du!c^vWv^NR?!)a«« 52 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. is fourteen or nineteeD years. The farms are not large ; a st}1e of farm-boilding corresponds ; some of them, howereri a rather superior order. Quarries. — There are two limestone, one sandstone, an granite quarries ; and there was once a quarry or mine of stone on the bank of the Avon, near Torphichen bridge, I has not been wrought for some years. The two limestone qu of Cathlaw and Bowden have alreadv been noticed, as alai coal mine on Hilderston, on Kipps, and on Bridge-Castle e It is said also that coal may be obtained on the Bridgehouse party. Produce. — The average amount of raw produce raised ii parish has not been ascertained, and cannot be stated. Manufactures, — The only branches of manufacture in the pa if such they can be termed, are two flax mills, and one mil the manufacture of wool, part of which is wrought into shawL V. — Parochial Economy. Market^Toum — There is no market-town in the parish; nearest is that of Bathgate, distant from Torphichen village a two miles and a-haif. Linlithgow is little more than four t and three-quarters distant. There are two villages in the pf Torphichen and Blackridge. Aleans of CommuHication.^^The means of communication joyed by the parish are, the turnpike-road from Linlithgr Bathgate, about two miles and a-half of which is within T chen ; that from Linlithgow to Glasgow by Armadale, abo and a-half of which is within Torphichen ; and about thrr of the middle road from Edinburgh to Glasgow, passing the west end of the parish. The parish roads are kept i in a very good condition ; and are upheld by an assessn the land at the rate of L. 2 each ploughgate, which is at seventy acres. Eccksiastical State. — The parish church is situated the village of Torphichen, its eastern gable resting on preceptory. It is within about a mile of the east end fish, consequently is by no means convenient for a ve tent towards the west. As, however, the eastern f most populous, the church is tolerably convenient fo thirds of the population. It was built in 1756. It i modation for about 450. Being allocated to the di tors of land and their tenants, its sittings are free TORPHICHEN. 53 but cannot be let to any others, except by private bargain between the parties themselves. There are about fifty-eight sittings not allocated, in what are called the table-seats, where, consequently, the poor may sit free. The manse was built above 100 years ago, and enlarged about thirty years ago, since which time it has obtained no repairs. The glebe is above eleven acres, only six of which are arable. It lets in grass for about L. 13. The stipend is L. 150, of which L. 25, 7s. is granted by the Exchequer. There has been a new church built by subscription at Black- ridge. It was opened for public worship on the first Sabbath of June 1838. A minister hasf been recently chosen for it, who is to be supported by the seat-rents and collections, by which it is hoped that about L. 60 will be obtained. It cannot yet be stated what number of people may attend the church at Blackridge, as it is not yet in full operation, consequently the respective numbers of Churchmen and Dissenters in that district cannot be stated. The attendance at the parish church is almost equal to the amount of accommodation afforded by the church, and is very regular. The average amount of communicants is 350. Average church collec- tions for charitable purposes, L. 25 ; for religious purposes, L. 12. Education. — There are three schools in the parish, of which two are parochial, and one unendowed. The branches of instruction generally taught in each are, reading, writing, arithmetic, mensu- ration, book-keeping, and rarely Latin. The salary of the paro- chial schoolmaster at Torphichen is the maximum ; at Blackridge L. 29 of a mortification and 100 merks. Libraries. — There are two parochial libraries in the parish, one at Torphichen, the other at Blackridge, both of which are pretty well supplied with books, well selected, and carefully perused. Friendly Societies, — There is one Friendly Society. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 18 ; the sum allotted to each varies considerably, but the average, including house- rents, is about L. 4, 14s. 6d. per annum, or about Is. 9d. weekly. The annual amount of church-door collections is about L. 25 ; from sums mor« iified, or otherwise disposed at interest, there is obtained about Lb 25 ; and the heritors have assessed themselves voluntarily ta the amount of about L.35 per annum, making the sum annually expended for the maintenance of the poor about L. 85. It is ta be regretted, that the lofty and generous reluctance to receive pa- rochial aid, formerly characteristic of the poor^ is dft.<^!^^c2^^K^^ ^^1::^^ 54 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. also, that, instead of being received as a boon, it is begiDDU be demanded as a right, — than which nothing can be mwt structive to genuine charity. This is to be ascribed chiefly tc non-residence of the proprietors, which diminishes the cbu door collections, dries up the springs of private charity, di away the local wealth, and, abating the demand for labour, ki wages low, and prevents the labouring classes from rismg al ^he pressure of necessity, and the near approach of poverty. April 1 84a PARISH OF CARRIDEN. PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWBBDO ' THE REV. DAVID FLEMING, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name.— 'The modern name of the parish is Carriden das' '^ De excidio Britanniae," a. d. 560, it is written / ForeduHy the Scottish historian, who lived about the calls the village that was in existence in his days K in Richard of Cirencester's History of Roman Br about 1338, the orthography is Ccerridden. The ' stood to be of Celtic or ancient British derivation^ the relative position of the then existing village a^ tion, or the speci6c character of its locality. ( Caledonia, represents it as being the same wi Eden^ which, in the British language of Roman t on the wing^ or prqjecHan like a wing. Extent^ {fc.-^ According to Forrest's survey nished in 1817, the length of the parish from es tute miles, and nearly 2 furlongs ; and the bre south wants half a furlong of 2 miles ; the nun which it contains being 424. It is bounded parish of Abercorn ; on the west, by the parish on the north, by the Forth ; and on the so Linlithgow ; presenting the appearance of figure, the longest side stretching along CAURIDEN. 55 Topographical Appearances, — The surface is very unequal, ris- ing from the shore by a quick ascent, with a varied undulating form for about a mile, and then in general declining to the south. The most elevated ground lies towards the south-western part of the parish, near its junction with Linlithgow and Bo'ness, form^ ing part of the Irongath ♦ hills, or what is vulgarly named Ghwr^ otore-enfj and subsiding in an eastern direction by a gradual de^ clivity. The highest point is 519 feet above the level of the sea^ or high water of spring tides. There are no natural cavities ; but the ground has been excavated to a considerable extent in the north-west of the parish for coals and ironstone, in consequence of which, by the settling of the superincumbent strata in the old wastes, the surface was at one place broken into a number of small concave cisterns, which in the course of agricultural improvement have been filled up and levelled; and within the last twenty or thirty years, several instances have occurred in different places of the ground suddenly giving way and leaving large holes in the open field. The coast along the Forth, including its windings, extends to about three miles and a-half, having, through a considerable portion of the line, at high water mark, a margin of sand and cal- careous mixture several feet broad, thence stretching out to low water-mark, for several hundred yards, in a sleechy flat, composed of alluvial soil, with more or less of sand, and showing here and there a small bank formed of drifted oyster shells. Of late, ow- ing to the encroachments of the sea, the sandy margin has been undergoing a change, and becoming more of a rough stony descrip- tion. Occasionally there is an appearance of rock. At two places the land points into the Frith, — the one, called Bridgeness, near the western extremity, — the other forming the eastern extre- mity of the parish, named Blackness, a rather remarkable rocky promontory on which Blackness Castle is situated. Within a few yards of the shore the ground rises into a steep bank, ranging from the junction with Bo'ness parish, till it falls into a gentle acclivity near the church, to the east of which it again becomes more abrupt, and so continues along the whole coast eastward, till it loses itself in the point of Blackness. There is no good bathing-ground along the coast except at Blackness, though not a few families from different quarters inland * Otberwiae called Airncoth. Sibbald says Uiere is a tradition , that a battle was fought there between the Romans and the natives under Argadus, and thence the hill took the name of Argad. 56 LINLITUOOWSHIRB. annually resort to the shore of the Frith, for the benefit of I and of the sea air. It is difficult, except at high tides, t a sufficient depth of water without wading to a consider! tance, and the footing in the soft yielding sleech is by ik agreeable ; besides, the water is not a little muddy, especiall it is in any degree agitated : and, sometimes, considerabl tities of peat moss in large coherent masses or in a pu)| are deposited on the shore, which has been floated down t in the process of clearing the extensive moss fields at Blair mond and other places in its vicinity. Meteorology, — The prevailing winds are from the soi and west. Next to these in frequency is the east wind, verest storms of snow are commonly from the east and noi The following table gives the number of days in each moi ing which the wind blew from any particular point of the < in 1834 : N. N. E. E. S. E. 8. s. w. w. January, 1 4 1 ]5 10 February, . 2 23 3 JVIarch, 2 1 16 11 April, 2 4 7 4 3 9 May, 1 1 8 1 4 9 7 June. 1 1 3 12 11 July, 1 9 ]3 1 1 7 5 August, 1 8 1 3 9 9 September, 4 8 1 9 8 October, 1 1 17 6 November, . 5 14 f December, . 2 1 17 1 TotaJ, . 6 15 57 8 17 151 Easterly, 80. Westerly, 262 The average height of the thermometer and baron month in the same year stands as under : Therm. Barom. January, . 40.06 29.1 July, February, , 39.32 29.4 Augiist, . March, . . 41.12 29^ September, April, . . 44.43 29.45 October, . May, . 53.32 29.7 Norember, June, . . 57.90 29.15 December, Average for the year, thermometer, 48^50 ; The hottest days were, July 4th and 7th, whr stood at 66^ On August 17th, the notatiot July 2d, dd, 22d, August 2d, 14th, 15th, 16tl and 20th, it was 64^. The greatest degree ' cember 19th, when the mercury indicated 29' days were December 18th and £Oth, the de CARRIDBN. 67 next to these were January 29th, November 23d, December 2dd and 27th, the mercury standing at 32^. The lowest range of the barometer was on December 1st, when it showed 28.08, the wind being south-west, and the thermometer 44° ; the highest range was on December 23d, being 31.01, when the wind blew from the west, and the thermometer stood at 32*. The observations to which the foregoing tables and statements refer, it may be proper to add, were taken about a mile from the coast, at a slight elevation above the sea. The climate is in general dry, pleasant, and healthful, though variable. Hydrography. — The Frith of Forth bounds the parish on the north, to the extent of about three miles in a straight line, the breadth at high water averaging about four miles, with an average depth of 9i fathoms in the channel. The water is never very transparent, ^nd when in a state of commotion, it is turbid and mud«- dy, of a lightish brown tinge, from the quantity of alluvial matter which it holds in solution. Its saltness is considerably diluted by the fresh current descending from above, but is nevertheless of quality suj9icient to furnish a productive material for the manufac- ture of excellent salt. There are two small streams that traverse the parish, both of very insignificant dimensions, viz. Blackness burQ, which rises iD the Irongath hills, and after running eastward, joins the Forth on the east side of the castle of Blackness, where it separates the parish from Abercorn ; and Carriden burn, which passes into the Frith on the west side of Carriden House, to the situation of which it adds considerable attractions by the natural beauty of its banks, having formerly served as an outlet to a small loch on the estate of Grange, that has been drained and is now under cultivation. Geology and Mineralogy. — The general characteristic of the mi- neral structure is of the coal formation. Passing along the coast from the westward, we fall in with trap or hard whinstone at Cow- denhill, Bridgeness, and CuiTabouts. A little farther to the east^ between the old manse and Burnfoot, there is a bed of light grey sandstone, which dips to the south-west with a declination of 11^. About a quarter of a mile onward, shale and indurated clay, with some bands of calcareous sandstone, appear at the surface within the sea mark, the dip continuing to the south-west. A dislocation in the strata appears to have taken place about a mile farther east- ward, the rock consisting of clay sandstone vv\k&CL\%?w?3^'«swV^2^^ 58 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. in an opposite direction to the north-east. Aboat 400 yards of the village of Blackness, a bed of calcareous ironstone crop on the beach, dipping into the sea in the same direction, wl when carefully prepared, forms a hydraulic cement of a very * rior quality : for which purpose it was wrought some years : and is again in contemplation of being wrought. This stratni covered with a strong shale, otherwise called bleOf varying in th ness from 1 to 20 feet, interspersed with balls of clay ironsli the under layer being of the kind called alum shale, and sepan from the upper by a thin band of ironstone. The alum shale formerly employed in the manufacture of soda, but the work been lately discontinued and dismantled. About twenty ya farther into the sea, a freestone rock of a rough granular texti rises to the surface, and runs in the same direction as the cemi stone, forming the covering towards the castle hill, which const entirely of trap rock, declining by 12^% also to the north-er In the interior, to the south-west of the parish, trap is chiefl be met with. There are many seams of coal in the parish, some of have been wrought at their crops or outbursts, centuries ago coal-field that is in the western division of the parish is si to extend across the Frith, and to be connected with ' formation in the opposite district in the county of Fii strata are known to the depth of 135 fathoms, havi. passed by the miners in sinking pits and other open the coal mines. The deepest seam that is known is ' coal, rising to the north-east along the sea shore. ^ and the smithy seam come out to the surface a sho to the east of Burnfoot The foul coal and red cc to the west of the road leading to Linlithgow ; main coal is only in the south-west of the parish, as sufficient cover for this seam to the east and nortt field passes through the south-west boundary of to the parishes of Borrowstownness and Linlithgow, division of it, the strata dip nearly north, with a de foot in three. In approaching the north, the dip round more to the west ; in the middle of the north-west, with a declination of ] in 6 to 1 in ' The following is a journal of the strata passe ing the engine or mingle, and the burn pits, v in both, with a slight variation in the proporti CAtlRlDEN. 59 Path. Ft. Id< Diluvial soil, yellow clay with sandi . .450 Sandstone, 2 Splintyooal, ..023 Sandstone, . . 3 6 Blea with ironstone bands and balls, . 3 4 2 Sandstone, . .724 Blea, . . I 1 10 Western main coal, having two bandsofstonethrough.it, 8 Hard whinstone, . 2 4 3 Blea, . 5 8 Hard whinstone, . 8 4 5 Soft whinstone, • 13 Redstone band, quarts rocki 3 9 Soft whinstone, . 115 Hard whinstone, 3 Sandstone, . . 3 6 Red coal, . 1 2 11 Sandstone, . . 2 II Blea with sandstone bands, 8 3 9 Sandstone, . . 1 5 10 Blea, . . 2 2 Parrot coal, bad quality, Blea, Foul coal, Blea with sandstone bands Hard sandstone. Rough sandstone* Blea, Eastern main coal> Sandstone, Blea, Sandstone, Blea, Coal, Sandstone, Blea, . '. Sandstone, Blea,, Smithy coal. Sandstone, Blea, Calcareous ironstone, Blea, Carsy coal, Path. Ft. lu. 1 6 3 1 9 a, 2 2 9 4 1 10 4 4 9 1 1 4 2 1 1 4 9 2 7 3 7 3 10 1 2 5 2 4 7 3 3 6 2 11 4 J 1 7 1 6 1 11 1 4 There are several dikes that throw the strata up, partly to the south, but generally to the north. These dikes vary from one to twenty fathoms, running chiefly from south-east to nortli*west, and may be termed slips rather than dikes, as they seldom occa- sion any rise, and merely disjoin the metals without producing much alteration in their relative position. To the east of Burn- foot, after passing the crop of the Carsy coal, it is thought that no coal is to be found. No attempt by boring has been made to ascertain what minerals exist beneath the surface ; but it is sup- posed that the strata lie beneath the coal measures. It is a cu- rious fact, that in a district where so many seams of coal occur, whinstone should be found so abundant. The Irongath hills consist of hard whinstone, resting on the coal strata ; nor does it present itself only in crops on the tops of eminences, but is found in regular seams between, and sometimes even in actual contact with the coal. In these hills, there is a bed of coal, varying from one to eight or ten feet in thickness, which has whinstone both for its roof and pavement ; and between the western main coal and the red coal, the seam of whinstone is about 70 feet thick. The fossil remains that have been found in the coal formation consist of reeds of diflerent kinds. Shells and impressions of leaves are also of more or less frequent occurrence ; and a few years ago, the workmen fell in with a beautiful specimen of that curious extinct genus of fossil plants, the lepidod»adx5JS^- 60 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. fortunately, only a snaall fragment of the interesting relic recovered. Ironstone appears to have been wrought in fori times to some extent to the vrest of the church. The alluvial deposits in the west part of the parish, near shore, consist of sea sand and shells resting on blue clay and mi the clay resting on the coal formation ; and in the soutb-W€ there is found yellow brick clay, and yellow clay with sand a gravel. The soil is of all varieties, from that of a light san texture to the richest loam and heavy clay. The subsoil is al very various, in some places being free and open, in others of rocky description, and in others tilly and retentive. The boi ders that have been met with, are trap, but different from that the neighbourhood, and must have come from a distance, the weight varying from three or four cwt. to four or five tons. Botany. — There is but a small portion of the parish covert with wood, and that chiefly ornamental, planted for the most pa on declivities and other parts of the surface, inapplicable to f' usual purposes of husbandry. The prevalent sorts of trees the plane, the ash, the elm, the beech, the larch, the oak, the lime, which are all promiscuously intermixed, and see equally adapted to the soil. The full-grown trees, which a few iu number, are chiefly in the neighbourhood of the ol sion-houses ; and as a proof of the geniality of the clinr vigour of the soil, it may be stated, that, within a few f from high water mark, immediately below Carriden Houf trees of respectable size and appearance stand strong ar in growth, stretching their branches and foliage over t^ full tide. II. — Civil History. Accounts of the Parish. — Several incidental notice be met with in the works of antiquarian writers, fror eastern termination of Antoninus's wall, and the si cient Roman works ; but the only detailed accou former Statistical Account, with which the write are to be found in Sir Robert Sibbald's History of Chalmers's Caledonia, and Penney's Topograp rical Account of Linlithgowshire. Historical Events. — The only events of a^ have a reference to the. history of Blackness royal fortress, which never appears to have much importance as a military station, though d CARRIDEN. 61 it is one of tbe few ancient fortified places in Sootland that are sti])ulated to be preserved in a state of repair. In 1548, under the regency of the Earl of Arran, the castle was garrisoned by the French, whom Henry II. sent over under the command of Monsieur D*Ess^, to support the pretensions which he derived from the matrimonial alliance that was contemplated between the Princess Mary and his eldest son the Dauphin. When Mary of Guise was promoted to be Regent, the castle again came into the possession of the French; but on the I4th April 1560, it was taken from them by the Sheriff of Linlithgow. In February 1571, it was manned with a garrison by Lord Claud Hamilton, a zealous partisan of the Queen; and it appears to have been held in her interest till February 1573, when it was delivered up to the Be* gent, the Earl of Morton, along with 50,000 double ducats, being the Queen's dowry, which had been brought . ft*om France by James Kirkaldy the preceding month, and with the written docu- ments relative thereto. During the occupancy of the castle by the Queen's troops in April 1572, an inroad was made by them upon the opposite coast, when they ** spoulzeit" the towns, and returned to Blackness with considerable booty. On two occasions during the same period, an attempt was made upon the castle by the opposite party. In the same month and year as last men* tioned, a ship of war, well furnished with artillery, was sent from I^ith to ** asseige^ the castle, but was driven from the station where she had cast anchor, with great danger, by the violence of the weather ; and in the year following, an attack was made to carry the place by surprise, which failed of success by ** the gar- rison being on the alert." ♦ During the troublous times of the struggle between Presbytery and Episcopacy, the castle appears to have been employed chiefly for tbe purposes of a state prison, and was the place of confine- ment where many, who were obnoxious to Government for their known adherence to the principles of religious and civil liberty, ' were immured. By a decreet of the secret council of James VL in February 1584, the celebrated Andrew Melville was adjudged to be committed to ward in the Castle of Blackness for declining their authority to decide upon the dgjctrine taught in a public dis- course which he had delivered at St Andrews. After the warrant of committal had been served upon him, however, he made his escape to Berwick. During the same year, the clergy in and near * Diurnal of Occurrents. 62 LINLITHGOWSHIRE* Edinburgh, having been apprized that measures prejudicial to ** 1 Kirk and its discipline" were to be resolved on at a meeting Parliament appointed to be held in May, prevailed upon Da^ Lindsay, minister at Leith, who was most acceptable to t court, to intercede with the king for the interposition of his auth rity till the Assembly should be heard in the matter ; but, wh he was entering the gate of the palace in discharge of his coi mission, he was apprehended and carried to Blackness. Thei also, the ministers of Edinburgh were condemned to a tempora confinement in 1587, for refusing to pray for the Queen's delii ranee ; their refusal being <* not simply to pray for her, but for t preservation of her life, as if she had been innocent of the crin laid to her charge." In 1594, the Earl of Angus, one of the € communicated Lords, was required to deliver himself up to ci tody in Blackness, till he should undergo a trial, but refusing, i subsequently with the others foun4 guilty of high treason. Pre August 1605 till towards the close of the following year, Jo Welsh, minister of Ayr, who had married John Knox's daughi Elizabeth, along with five other clergymen, were confined in t castle for refusing to condemn the Assembly that had met a shi time before at Aberdeen, when they were ** banished the kinj dominions upon the pain of death." About the same time, asti prisoner of a different description, Gilbert Brown, abbot of N Abbey, ** a trafficking and seducing Papist," who had been appi hended by Lord Cranstoun, was lodged for a few days withir walls, till he was transported to the castle of Edinburgh. 1624, William Rigg, one of the bailies of Edinburgh, wa' prived of his office of magistrate, condemned to be impriso' Blackness Castle, and fined in L.50,000 Scots for challeng doctrine taught by the Episcopal clergy. He was charged ** the chief ringleader of the non-conformitants in Edinbui that he contributed liberally to the printing of books which the course of conformitie.'^ The second Lord Bargen; Hamilton), who was served heir to his father, the first lo' 17th October 1662, as the retour in Thomson's Ab' bears, ^^ in terris dominicalibus de Carriden, Law, et D maneriei loco de Carriden, infra baroniam de Carrid prisoner in the castle in November 1679. In his indie' the Court of Justiciary, dated 24th February 168C alia charged with ** corresponding with John Weh of the former worthy of the name, ^^ a factious trumj: CARBIDEN. 63 and treason, entertaining notour rebels in bis house, publicly maintaining the principles of Naphtali, Jus Populi, Lex Rex, and declaring that Scotland would never be well till it wanted Episco- pacy, and the present government of the Church was destroyed, as unfit for the nation;" but the trial was never brought on from want of evidence. This nobleman entered heartily into the Re- volution, raised a regiment of 600 infantry for the public service in 1689, and died on the 25th May 1693. From an act of the Scots Parliament, we learn, that another sufferer in those times of religious persecution was John Hay of Lochloy, who was in 1683 committed prisoner for the space of thirteen months, " pairtly in the tolbuith of Edinburgh, and pairtly in the castle of Blackness." His offence was his hearing the nonconforming ministers. There are still attached to the castle a governor and lieutenant- governor, but both non-resident. When the former Statistical Ac- count was written, the garrison consisted of 2 gunners, 1 serjeant, 2 corporals, and 12 or 15 privates. Lately, the barrack furniture has been removed, and now the only inmates are an inferior officer, and his wife and daughter. Eminent Characters. — Colonel James Gardiner, who fell in the battle of Prestonpans in 1 745, and whose life, as recorded by Dod-« dridge, affords so impressive and affecting an example of the power of divine grace and the influence of Christian example, was born in this parish at Burnfoot, where are yet pointed out the window of the apartment in which it is alleged that he first drew the breath of life, and two trees, an apple and a pear, said to have been plant- ed by his hands, but which are now in a state of great decay. In the new churchyard lie interred the remains of Dr John Roe- buck, a native of Sheffield in England, and projector of the exten- sive iron- works at Carron. Besides originating other important establishments connected with the arts in different parts of the island, this ingenious and enterprising individual was united in partnership with the celebrated James Watt in perfecting his im- provements upon the steam-engine ; and the story is told, that the Grst time the great engineer succeeded in setting his working mo- del agoing was in Dr Roebuck's dining-room, who was then resi* dent in Kinneil House, as lessee of the Duke of Hamilton's coal and salt-works near Borrowstounness. The late Sir John Lees, Private Secretary to the Marquis of Townshend when Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, and who afterwards filled the office of secretary to the post-office in Dublin^ ««&vcwVc ^& 64 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. youth brought up in this parish. He was emineoily sueoei life, and affords a memorable example of the dtsttnguishet in society to which the careful cultivation and judicious appi of superior talents may raise their possessor. He was ere baronet on the 21st June 1804. As proprietor of the estate of Carriden, the late Rear-/ Sir George J. Hope, K. C. B., became connected with the above twenty years ago. He was a very distinguished oflSc highly appreciated iu the service for his exemplary discipli decision, promptitude, and bravery, and his veneration for n He entered the navy at the age of fifteen, in the year 178 after passing through the usual gradations, attained th< of captain in 1793, and that of rear-admiral in the year During the above period, he commanded the Romulus, Al and Leda frigates, the Majestic, Theseus, and Defence sc fours, being present at the battle of Trafalgar in the sh named, and served as captain of the Baltic fleet during ]& the three subsequent years. In the year 1812, he went to tl miralty, which he quitted temporarily in the following auti bring over the Russian fleet to England during the Frenc sion of that country. In 1813, he held the chief command Baltic, and at its termination returned to the Admiralty, wl remained as confidential adviser to the First Lord till his di ^he 2d May 1818; thus closing a life spent in unremitting •service in the discharge of the duties of the highest posts oaval administration. Land'Oumers. — The Duke of Hamilton ; the Earl of Hop Sir James Dalyell, Bart of Binns ; James Hope, Esq. o den, Post-CSaptain in the Royal Navy ; James S. Cadell Grange ; and James Johnstone, Esq. of Straiten, are the proprietors of land. ' Captain Hope holds the place of tor ; but the greatest amount of superiority and the pat the church belong to the Duke of Hamilton. Parochial Regiiters. — These are very voluminous, anc' of excellent preservation. They have, upon the whole with great regularity. Seven volumes contain the col disbursements for the poor, from 1688 down to the j without any interruption but between 1708 and 17] sioD minutes occupy six volumes, commencing with dated 27rh January 1691, and have been regularly only two exceptions, the one amounting to about' tv CARRIDBN. 65 Other to five years. The registers of baptisms and marriages in- clude four volumes, the first entry of baptism being dated 1687, that of marriage, 16b8 ; and both records coming down to the present day, with only one interval in the former of about seven years, and one of about one year in the latter. The first volume of the session-minutes, among some other items besides the ses^ sional transactions, contains *^a just double of the mortification given by the Lairds of Grang, of a house or houses in Muirhouse, for a schoole to the parish of Caridden, 1636," the family name at that time being Hamilton; also, /^ mortification be Sir Williani Dick of Braid to Mr Andrew Keir and his successors, ministers of Caridden, of two roodes of land, 1642." Besides these, there are several odd volumes, and a register of deaths and burials ; but 3ince 1 806, it is very partial and defective. Antiquities. — The ancient Roman wall, built between the Forth and the Clyde in the reign of the Emperor Antoninus Pius by his X^egate Loliius Urbicus, a. d. 140, is, by the almost universal con^ sent of antiquarians, understood to have had its eastern termina- tion in this parish. Three different places have been assigned as the terminating point, Carriden, Walton, and Blackness. In the summary of the ninth chapter of Gildas, *^ De excidio Britanniae, A. D. 560," it is expressly asserted that the wall commenced at " Kair Eden ;"♦ and this opinion is adopted by Foredun, Richard of Cirencester, Gordon in his " Itinerarium Septentrionale," pub^ lished in 1726, and by Roy in his ** Military Antiquities of th^ Romans in North Britain," published in 1793. Bede, in his *< Eccles. Hist Gentis Aiiglorum," written in 737, affirms that the wall began about two miles west of Abercurnig,f i. e. Aber- com, at a place called, in the Pictish language, "Peanuab^l," and in the English, *< Penueltum." If the distance be correct, the ** Peanuahel" of the Picts, and «♦ Penueltum" of the English, must correspond with Blackness, which is exactly two miles from Abercorn. In accordance with this opinion, Sir Robert Sibbald, in his "Hist. Inq," printed in 1707, says, "the wall runs from * The wtirds in Gildas are, "Videlicet, ut inter duo roaria murum per roilllapos. soum plurima trans insulam instruerent a mari Scotise usque ad mare Hibemic (i. e» a Kair £klen) ciyitate antiquissima, duorum ferme inillium spatio a Monasterio Abercamig (quod nunc yocatur Abercorn) ad occldentem, tendens contra occiden- tein, juxta urbem Alclutb.*^ t The language of Bede bears a striking resemblance to that of Gildas, except in the proper namfes?— '^ Cujus operis hodie oertissima yesdeia cemere licet Incipit avtem duorum ferme milium spatio « Monasterio Abercnmig, ad occidentem, in loop qui serroone Pictorum Peanuahel, lingua autem Anglorum, Penueltum appellatur, e%. miAiiii oontra ocoidentem terminatur jujita urbem Alduit.**— Lib. U Cw^. «Vv LINLITHGOW. ^ 6 6 LINLITHGOWSHIBE. Carriden towards the Castle of Blackness, where it once en just as it did upon Clyde at Dunglass." The ** Peanyahel *^ Penveltum" of Bede, however, he thinks corresponds with present Walton, which, he says, "derived its name from the ^ as it stood upon its track.^' In the former Statistical Accoui the Parish, the wall is said to have terminated at <* Waltov and Camden, in his *< Britannia," Vol. iii. p. 316^ states, " Antoninus Pius's wall may be traced to Carriden, and probt ended at Waltoun, the Penvahl of Bede/' The locality of V ton, however, affords a suflBcient ground of conviction tl though evidently the site of a Roman fort or station, it neit formed the termination of the wall nor stood upon its track ; instead of being situated close upon the shore of the Frith in line of direction obviously taken by the wall from Kinneil Grange, and thereby completing the line of defence, it diver towards the south at a considerable angle to the distance of ab a mile, over irregular ground, and affords no advantage that co recommend it as the last station of so elaborate a work. Besic Walton, instead of being two miles, as it ought to be according Bede's account, is about four miles from Abercorn ; and, inst of being derived from the " Penueltum" of Bede, or from any lation it had to the wall, the name seems to trace its origin t noted well or fountain of water that was constructed there to t ply the military posted at the station, and which, in the mer of the present tenant of the farm, went by the name of the B well, pronounced Scoticd tra//, having been GUed up abov years ago ; and where still, at a little distance from the fon servoir, an unfailing supply of excellent water at all se delivered from a square stone-built conduit, large enougi ceive the body of a man. I am satisfied, in short, that \ terminated either at Carriden or Blackness, and, with probability, at the former, its remains, till very lately, bei' clearly traceable to a small tumulus to the south-east c House, called in modern phrase, the ^* Deacon's Stor farm- steading, little more than a gun-shot to the west mulus, called " Graham's Dyke," affording unquest' dence that this was the identical line of its directior of them forming a most desirable position for compl of defence, besides corresponding most nearly with tt cal description of the more ancient writers upon the r * It ought not, perhaps, to be omitted, that another opinion Im h CARRIDEN. 67 The wall was cespititious, composed of earth or of the materials promiscuously taken from the ditch. " Non tam lapidibus/* says Gildas, "quam cespitibus/' There were nineteen forts erected upon it at certain intervals, the mean distance from station to sta- tion being 3554^ yards, or something more than two English miles, so that an alarm could easily be communicated from one to another on the approach of danger. Roy makes the total length of the wall from Old Kilpatrick church to Carriden to have been 63,980 yards, or 36 miles and 620 yards English, being nearly 39| Roman miles ; a measurement which corresponds very much with that of Gordon. From Dunglass to Blackness, the dis- tance is about 40 English miles. The origin of the appellation " Graham's*' or " Grime's Dyke," which is sometimes given to the wall, seems*not to have been ex- actly determined by antiquaries. According to Horsley, " Gra- ham" in the Gaelic language signifies blacky and, from its appli- cation to a large ditch and rampart that traverses a great part of Northumberland, which is so designated from its dark and sombre appearance in passing through the moors, this wall, he conjectures, may have taken its name from the same circumstance. The pre- vailing use of the appellation in the possessive ca^e, however, would seem to restrict it to the name of a person ; and the common le- gend is, that " Grime," nephew to Eugenius, King of the Scots, with his troops broke through the wall a few miles westward of Falkirk, between Camelon and Castlecary, and had the achieve- ment immortalized by having his name given to the wall as iis vernacular designation. On the south side of the wall, and running in a great measure parallel with it, a military way was constructed for the more con- venient and expeditious communication between the different sta- tions. Roads of a similar description seem to have traversed the country in various directions ; and, from south to north, it would appear that, by means of this kind, a line of connection was main- ject. Nenius, who wrote a. d. 620, says, that the wall commenced at a place called in the British tongue, *'*' Penguaul. which town, in Scottish, is called Cenail, but in English (I e. Saxon) Peneltum.** — *« Cuuail'* is understood to be the same as Kinneil; and its signification in Gaelic, denoting the ** headT or **end,** is supposed to give far- ther indication that the wall termir.ated theie. It is impossible to identify the ** Ce- nair or ♦* Peneltum" of Nenius, if corresponding with the modern Kinneil, with the *' Penueltum** of Bede, as the latter was only two, and the former is seven miles from Abercorn ; but it is by no means improbable that, in the course of its construction, the wall concluded, in the first instance, at Kinneil, and was, at a subsequent period, continued onwards to Carriden. Horsley at first coincides with Nenius in the opi. oion, that Kinneil was the proper termination of the wall, but afterwards seems to •grea Wllb Crordon that it ended at Carriden. OS LINLITHGOWSHIRE. tained tlirough the whole extent of the Roman territories in tain. Richard of Cirencester makes mention of a Roman that proceeded from the wall in North umberland, by which 1 prehend he means the wall built by the Emperor Adrian, by Eildon hills, Borthwick Castle, Muttonhole, Cramond, Quo ferry, and Abercorn, to Carriden, at or near the eastern term tion of Antoninus's wall ; and, several years ago, some remain a causeway were dug up on the ridge that runs from Blacknes the road that leads from Carriden to Walton, to all appearaoc branch from or an integral part of the above-mentioned way. At Carriden various Roman relics have been found at differ times, such as a Vespasian of gold; a stone, described by Gore as having an eagle with expanded wings, holding a corona trim phalis in her bill, and standing in the middle of two Roman vtxx or standards, on one side, and on the other the letters co lULiA, and others so obliterated as to be illegible, which v built in a wall added to the house by Alexander Miln, Esq. then proprietor ; Roman pottery ; an old Roman altar, havir inscription, placed at the time in the garden ; and a brass g or sword, which is now in the Advocates' Library. " Abo years before" the former Statistical Account of the par written, the author says, that, *^ in digging up stones t^ park dike, axes, pots, and several vases, evidently Hor found, and sent to the Advocates' Library." In levelli mulus above Grange House, already referred to, in sp several rude stone coffins with bones in them were four the appearance of the bones, there was reason to belie had been deposited there at a much later date thar the Romans. At the eastern extremity of the parish, on a pror into the Firth, stands the Castle of Blackness, c national fortresses of ancient times, whose preserv teed by the Act of Union, The period of its eref and its history has been very imperfectly recorde ture more characteristic of the warfare of a ruder to the modern improvements in the military art Mansion-Houses. — The mansion-houses of ( and Grange, are fabrics of some antiquity ; the some modern additions, being still occupied f the proprietor; the second attached to a far after being lately put under some repairs, occ CARRIDEN. 69 III. — Population. Population according to census J 81 1, . 1348 J821, . 1429 1831, . 1261 1841, . 1197 The births in 1700 were 25 males, 19 females—deaths, 4 males, 9 females. 1710 36 49 1720 36 36 1730 32 25 1740 8 12 1750 19 18 1760 12 22 1770 18 17 1780 26 22 1790 30 14 1800 22 21 11 8 27 26 23 19 23 18 13 6 19 28 10 13 10 8 10 19 12 14 The greatest number of marriages from 1754 to 1800 inclusive, was m 1763 and 1765, amounting to 19 in each year; the smalU est in 1757, amounting to a The yearly average of births for 7 years before 1835, about 31 marriages, . . 8 Two of the proprietors are resident. The number of those whose property amounts to the yearly value of L.60 and upwards is six. The people are in general industrious, but among some classes there is to be found room for improvement in point of cleanliness, and domestic comfort and accommodation. When dressed ac- cording to their taste, and especially as they are to be seen at church, their appearance is most respectable. IV. — Industry. AgriciiUure. — The number of Scots acres in the parish is 2157 in cultiyation, 2023 incapable of do. 16 under wood, 90 roads, &c. . 28 Smt of Land, — ^The rent of the best land is from L. 4 to L. 5, that of the worst is about L. 1. The average grazing of a milk cow 18 L. 3^ 1 Os. ; of others L. 2, 1 Os. ; and of a sheep 1 Os. per year. Kinds of Stock. — The sheep mostly fancied for fattening are the black-faced; the breed of cattle is chiefly the short-horned; but various sorts from the north are also in much request by the far- mer. The horses are for the most part the Clydesdale. Husbandry. — The style of husbandry in practice is the most approved of the present day. The farmers are most intelligent, enterprising, and active ; and the state of cultivation in which the farms are upheld is of the highest order. Much has h^<^^^'5js>fc^&. Jate to improve and ameliorate i\\^ ^^xWj ^\'8LwwT^^^^ccv^Kw^^^^ ^»^^ 70 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. regulating the fences. Tile^raining has been introdnoed great advantage. Sown grass is often grazed instead of beiqg as being more conducive to keep the land in heart. GrowiB\ turnips has been adopted to a considerable extent, with the i decided benefits to the cultivator. The duration of leasee is nerally for nineteen years. The usual rotation pursued b ths six years. Some of the &rm* buildings are of a superior d In two instances, the thrashing-mills are driven by steam-eagii and the fields, with few exceptions, are well inclosed. Qfiarries and Mines. — There are several quarries of free i whinstone in the parish, but they are only wrought occasionally domestic use. The substrata abound in coal, and coal has bi wrought in the parish from time immemorial. In former til the supply was furnished from the estates of Carriden, Bonbi and Grange. Within the present century, no less than ten di rent pits have been at work, though at difierent times, and al' them within little more than a mile distant from each other* present there are only two in operation, belonging to the I> Hamilton. The seam of coal wrought in the mingle or engine-pit, was the only one at work in 1832, for which year the follow! count is given, is called the Eastern Main coal, and is in about 4 feet thick. There are now (1643) four in operatic workings are situated on the western boundary of tb^ close to that of Borrowstounness, the coal going r name of the Brtdgeness coal in the towns to which i from the name of the pier where it is shipped. 77^ fathoms deep, and the coals are drawn from th' engine to the pit bottom, whence another engine to the surface, the water being pumped up by a thf greater power, erected at the mouth of the pit to witi of the surface, where it escapes by a day-level to th' quantity of coals produced in 1832 was 9780 19,062 tons chows, and 4363 tons small coal. 7 ninety-five men, many of them residing in the ps townness, employed io hewing the coal, which is workings in corves or baskets set upon hurleys, ' plate railway, driven by their children or puf from which the engine below takes it to the pit Iters are paid Ste. IQd. per ton for working the per ton for chows, and 8d. per ton for small i his putter may put out 1 ^ ton great coal, w CARRIDEN. 71 day. The small coal is quite unsaleable ; the greater part of it )s» of course, left in the waste, and, were it not for the use of the salt- pans, none of it would be brought up at all. The pit is about a mile from the shore, the coals being conveyed to the place of ship- ment by a railway. The coal dips generally to the west at the rate of 1 in 7 or 8 feet Before the present dip workings com- menced, which was in 1830, the workings were above the level of the pit- bottom, reaching to the south of the pit about 900 yards, where the coal gets below the Irongath hills, in a direction nearly straight south, dipping to the north in some places at the rate of 1 in 3. But it became so mixed with stone and troubled with dikes, which were generally up to the south, that the working of it was discontinued. The quality of this seam of coal is highly esteemed. In 1833, the Burn pit was sunk from the main to the smithy coal, a seam lying 12 fathoms deeper, and about 2 feet 7 inches thick* Fishery. — A stake-net for taking salmon was erected several years ago in the Frith, on the property of Captain Hope of Car- riden, having three pockets or chambers ; and the fishing has occa- sionally been pretty successful. Produce, — :The following is given as an approximation to the gross amount of produce : Produce of grain of all kinds, poUtoes, turnips, &c. hay and pasture, gardens, coal mines, salt-pans, L. 75.53 1200 2376 250 7000 1000 L. 19,379 Manufactures. — There were six salt-pans working in the village of Grange-pans in 1834, which made about 23,000 bushels of salt annually ; now there are only four at work. In the same village, in 1832 and 1833, and the two following years respectively, 7J3|, 312, and 552 quarters of barley were malted. At Brickfield, near Blackness, a valuable field of clay, averaging 12 feet deep, has been wrought for some years past, which, in 1834, gave employ- ment to twelve men, and then yielded at an average yearly 150,000 bricks, 200,000 roofing tiles, and 200,000 draining tile3. Since then, the demand for the latter has been greatly on the increase* Some years ago, there was at Blackness a chemical work in <^ra- tioD, for the manufacture of soda. Barilla ash, and Romaac<^52&l5^^:^.^ 72 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. a similar establishment at Bridgeness for the manufketareof ▼! or sulphuric acid ; and another in Grangepans for the OHUii ture of sal-ammoniac ; but all three are now extinct- Namgatioru — There are no fessels belonging to the parbh ; about '300 coasters, from 20 to 100 tons, from different poiti Scotland, and ten foreign vessels, from 50 to 100 tons, ship ei yearly at Bridgeness. In 1834, about 400 tons of Leith man were imported at Blackness by two neighbouring farmers at per ton, employing eight vessels at 50 tpns each ; and twelve f sels from 20 to 60 tons were employed by the proprietor of I brick-work in exporting the produce of his manufacture. TIm are also occasionally other importations of lime and manure I agricultural purposes. V. — Parochial Economv. Market-Town^ Sfc. — The nearest market-town is Borrowstoui ness, which is about one mile and a-half distant from the church ; is also the post-town. Linlithgow lies about three miles dtsts to the south-west. There are five villages in the parish — Gran pans, Bridgeness, Cuffabouts, (supposed to be a corruption Causeway foot, the original name,) Muirhouses, and Blackness,- four last being of very little extent. Roads. — The turnpike- road from Linlithgow to South C ferry passes through the south-eastern section of the p8 nearly a mile and a-half, but no public vehicle travels Another line of public road is &t present in the act of from Grangemouth by Borrowstownness, diverging fron nt the church of Carriden, and designed to meet the r mentioned at Champany. A railway, about a mile having an inclined plane on which the empty waggons np by the descent of those that are loaded, was constr? years ago for the purpose of conveying the coals from the pier of Bridgeness. The other roads in the pari ciently convenient for the purposes of communication most part, kept in a good state of repair. Harbours. — The pier of Bridgeness was some tended by the proprietor about fifty yards further i secur6 a greater depth of water for the vessels tb and affords'cxcellent accommodation for the purp< was erected, the trade to which it is serviceable bf tion of coals and salt, and the occasional importati limestone. In former times Blackness was a hp CARRIDEN. 73 rable importance, being the sea-port of Linlithgow, the county town. Sir Robert Sibbald, in his " History of Linlithgowshire" in 1 707, describes it as <^ a harbour for all sorts of ships, where ihey have a large custom-house, and warehouses with other accom« modations for merchants." ** In the range along Bo'ness and the South Ferry they had," as he knew in his time, " some 36 ships belonging to them, though in all that tract south of the Frith there is no part for ships to lie at but Blackness. They traded with Holland, Bremen, Hambucgh, Queensbui^h, and Dantzic. Many rich merchants lived there, and the cities of Glasgow, Stir- ling, and Linlithgow had great trade thence." Now the har- bour is in ruins, the custom-house converted into lodgings ap- propriated chiefly for the use of sea-bathers in summer, and the only merchandize known to the place is the shipment of a few tons of bricks and tiles, and the importation of a few tons of lime and manure. Ecclesiastical State. — The church stands upon the coast, dis- tant about two miles from the eastern and southern, and one mile from the western extremity of the parish ; and only one or two families can be said tp be at a distance of more than two miles from it. It was built in 1766, the old church having stood about half-a mile distant, in close proximity to the mansion-house of Carriden, where the old church-vard still remains. The church was never properly seated by the heritors, but left to be occupied very much at the pleasure of the parishioners, so that, though ful- ly seated, the workmanship is but indifferent; and the sittings were possessed in a great measure promiscuously, as they had been erected or purchased by the parties till 1S26, when a formal di- vision of it was made by the sheriff among the heritors, according to their respective valuations. The pulpit, which was transferred from the old church to the new, and is formed of oak, is said to have been brought from Holland, having inscribed upon it the date 1655. One of the communion cups is dated 1660, the shape being the antique form of an inverted candlestick ; the other was procured during the present incumbency. The church, accord- ing to its present arrangement, will accommodate 458, but might be seated for 500. There are 28 free sittings allotted to the poor. The manse was built in 1818, and, though of rather small dimensions, is commodious, well-finished, and in good repair. The old manse, now in ruins, is situated a few hundred yards to the east of the present. The glebe is 14.556 imperial ac.^^%^^^^* 74 L1NLITHGOW8HIRB. ing been receiTed id exeambioD for the old globe in 1817. stipend, inclusife of commuDion elemeDtty b IS6 bolla nod as many of barley. In 1834, there were 259 families, annountiog to IIM k duals who might be reckoned aa attached to the EitaUi Church, 22 families containiDg 96 individuals belonging to United Associate Synod ; one family and part of another ' were Reformed Presbyterians, and there were 5 EpiscopaU The average number of communicant^ is nearly 200. Religious Soci^. — A Parochial Bible Association was iosCiti in 1826, in connection with the West Lothian Bible Societyt \ a special provision, that the wants of the parish should, in the 1 instance, be supplied The rate of contribution was a peony week, and in this way, from 1826 to 1838 inclusive, 1*51, 17s» 1 were collected for the purpose of promoting the distribution of i Scriptures. This society has now merged in a general assoeint; lately established in support of the schemes of the General / sembly, and for circulating Bibles through the parish. Churcli CStiflecluNM.-— The amount of church collections f li^ious and charitable purposes for the seven years ending in averaged L. 38^ 4s. 1 Id. Educatiatu — Besides the parochial school, there are thr schools in the parish, two of them under the patronage perintendence of the Carriden family, one an infant scl other for the education of female children, the third d/ upon the personal efforts and success of the teacher. The parochial teacher's salary is the maximum. He the legal accommodations as to school and dwelling- in lieu of a garden, two bolls of oatmeal are allowed h' Library. — In 1821, a library was instituted in tb consist of books of a religious and instructive char remain in perpetoity for the use of the inhabitants of donations set it at once on a respectable footin cession of subscribers was at first promising, but laf not been so numerous. Friendly Soeieiies and Saving^ ArnAs.— Some ' vings' bank was establbhed, in the hope that it wr largely improve the character and domestic comfor classy ; but the eaperiment did not succeed. 1 opportunity of entering deposits, and those few class of persons for whose benefit it was desigc Carriden. 75 Friendly Societies. — There were two Friendly Societies in ezis* tence in 1834, and had been for some years before— one for the support of its members when disabled by sickness or infirmity, the other for defraying the funeral expenses incurred at the death of a member, or of a member's wife or child. At present the latter only is in existence. Poor andJParochial Funds. — The average number of paupers up- on the roll for the seven years ending in 1834, was 30{f , to each of whom the average sum allotted yearly was L.2, Ss. 6^. Be- sides those upon the roll, there are others who are allowed occa- sional relief. The funds for this expenditure proceed partly from the church collections, and the proclamation and mortcloth dues, and partly from an assessment laid on the landlord and tenant, and which, for the seven years above specified, averaged L.36, 6s. 3yd. per annum. It is much to be regretted, that the disposition, once so honourable a trait in the Scottish character, to live indepen- dently of parochial aid, is greatly on the decline. Ale-houses. — Of these there are too many amongst us for the moral well-being of the people. There are six houses in all where spirituous liquors are sold. Miscellaneous Observations. In more remote times, the aspectof the parish must have been con- siderably different from what it is at present The surface was for- merly much more thickly studded ^with human habitations and scenes of human industry, grouped together in little patches, than it is now ; many of which have disappeared altogether, while of some a few faint vestiges still remain. At one time a considera- ble establishment of salt-works, now wholly obliterated, existed near where the present church is situated, and was named in the former Statistical Account, " Benhard-pans." Nearly a mile dis- tant from the church to the east, another series oferectionsof the same kind was stationed, called Carris-pans, probably a corruption of Carriden-pans, of which the only relic to be seen is the stakes, that mark out the boundary of the ^* bucket paty* that is, the re- servoir that held the sea water that was to be subjected to the process of evaporation. Bonhard appears to have been once the seat of a village inhabited by the labourers that were employed at the coal-works formerly in operation there. Little Carriden, si- tuated a short distance eastward from the Muirhouses, but now extinct, was within these twenty years in existence. From time to time, the smaller farm steadings have been ^:^4>a.^'^ ^'sss^V^'^jt- ing. And the villages iVi^^, q^o^Vvkw^ V» wyaX. ^\^^^«^ ^N^^^VRs^^a. 76 LINLITHGOWSHIRE* of decay rather thao of increase and improTemeot. Black especially, seems to have shrunk greatly from its former im} ance, as, besides being a respectable sea-port and mart of ti it was once the centre of a considerable population, having ii neighbourhood mills, fisheries, coal-works, and salt-pans.* Revised April 184a PARISH OF WHITBURN. PRESBYTERY OP LINLITHGOW, SYXOD OF LOTHIAN & 11¥EBDDA1 THE REV. GRAHAM MITCHELL, A.M., MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, Extent^ 8^c* — Whitburn, formerly written Whitebui seems to have received its name in contradistinction to Blackbui which lies to the east of the parish. In extent it is about six mil long, and two and a-half broad. It is bounded on the east, by Livin ston ; on the west, by Shotts and part of Cambusnethan ; on f south, by West Calder ; and on the north, by Bathgate and ^ of Shotts.t The Almond runs through the north of the p9 and the Breich along the south of it. There are several springs, and a good deal of mineral strongly impregnated with iron. Mineralogy. — A most valuable seam of coal has been here for more than a century. A drop falls from the * Besides what was formerly stated in the teit, the importance of Blac' be inferred from the following words found in a charter granted in 1642, Dalzell de Binnes, — ** Duobus marinis molendinis granariis lie sea-corn multuris omnium terranim de Blacknes et Bonytoun, infra dominium de cum Tiridario— piscationibus et piscariis lie crudes de Blacknes infrs carbonibus, et salinas patellis, de dominio et l>alliatu prsdicto.** In an to George Earl of Linlithgow in 1690, the tenor is— *< officio constabul disB castri de Blackness— terris, et carbonibus et carbonariis dictaninr Blackness tam infra quam eztra fluium maris ;— piscibus, piseariis e Blackness infra mare, &c.** t The first branch of the Briech water commences at a place eallf or Moss, on the lands of CUmpy,->it is sometimes called Dmrmed K were often preached in that retired place in times of persecution. Th commences at a place called Linqure, between Knowton and Headlt and Causeway hilL The Almond water commences at the fiiot of tl the parish of Shotts, and from Blairroackhole moss, about a mile f the same parish. WHITBURN. 77- the pit, and sometimes forms itself into strong pillars, which can with difficulty be broken. It is calcareous stalactite. The fol- lowing report of Greenridge Colliery is from Mr Bald, engineer, who is well acquainted with a considerable part of the parish :^- *^ Ist^ The dip of the strata is to the north ; their declination from the horizon is in general about one in twelve, but they are in some instances much flatter, and also steeper. The strata are occasionally cut by veins or slips, producing dislocations of the strata, and these are generally in the line of bearing from east to west. The effect of these is to throw the strata either up or down to the rise or crop. *^ 2(/, The whole of the parish of Whitburn, as to its minerals, is of the independent coal formation, and consists of the following kinds of rocks : — " fSandstonct of various shades of yellow and brown, some of it in thick beds ; flagstones, and thin slaty sandstone. Mica is found in all these, and generally very abundant in the latter. Hardness, from very soft to very hard. ** Argillaceous shislus^ of various shades, from dark blue to black, is found in beds of a few inches to several yards thick. This shistus, when mixed with sand, forms a clay slaty sandstone. Bands and balls of argillaceous ironstone are frequently found in this shistus. Some of this rock is of very fine particles, decomposes rapidly when exposed to the air and weather ; when calcined, it is of a bright- red, " Argillaceous rocksj of various shades of brown and approaching to black. This is commonly found to be the bed upon which each coal rests ; in it are found occasionally small balls of argillaceous ironstone, very much the shape of potatoes. This kind of rock is termed fire-clay, and from it, in different places, the besf fire- bricks of Scotland are made, for resisting the action of intense furnace heat. " Greenstone rock^ commonly termed blue whinstone, abounds very much in this parish. It is similar to the same kind of rock so abundant in Scotland, composed of red or white felspar and hornblende, and in whatever situation the bed of greenstone is that is, whether in a vertical or horizontal position, the numerous fissures, which give it a columnar form, are always at right angles to the bed on which it rests. This rock is found in detached beds, generally several yards in thickness, forming small knolls, and at times the summit of hills, of from 150 to 200 foA!^ Vc^a^N^ t8 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. above the adjacent country. Many mineralogists, and flsai engineers in particular, think these rocks of igneous orjgioi I cause when they come in contact with bituminous coal, the cot men coal of Sa>tland, they deprire it of its bitumen, conmtii it in some cases into glance coal (the blind coal of ScoClaik having neither smoke nor flame, on which account it is used I drying malt, at other times it converts the coal into a black stoi of no use whatever. *^ Limestone* — None of this rock is found in the parish, but n neralogists are of opinion it is to be found in the lower series < the coal strata, and of that kind which is termed the mountaii limestone. ^^IromUme. — The ironstone found in this parish is of the commo argillaceous kind, and is found in beds from one inch to seven inches thick, or in balls or flat circular pieces. This ironston is similar to that found in all the coal-fields of Scotland, and um for the making of pig»iron. It yields generally from twenty-sevr to thirty-three per cent, of pig-iron. ^* The same kind of organic remains are found in the strata^ as are common in all the coal-fields of Scotland. *^ The alluvial covers are, 1. the old alluvial cover, compc clay, sand, and small stones, intimately blended togetb very impervious to water. In this, large greenstone \ abound. 2. Quick sands. 3. Clay mixed with small stones. 4. Peat-bog. This is of very considerable ez very full of water. ^'.The most valuable mineral which this parish conta is called the Crofthead, or slaty black band ironstone very fine field has lately been discovered lying betweer beyond the village of Longridge. The change which has made upon this district is very remarkable ; within the last three years a solitary moorland seer come one of enterprise and industry. Tall chir in all directions, and clouds of smoke rolling s burning masses, show the extensive nature of the are now carried on. *< In regard to the position of this mineral, strata of the neighbouring districts, it is undoi with the Great Western Coal-field, or Glasgr usually termed, and lies at the bottom of the belongs. At the south-western extremity of tb WHITBURN. 79 minerals are found cropping out in the Fauld Burn, a little above the village of Fauldhouse. These minerals lie somewhat in the form of a basin, the next in order below which is the slaty band series, to which also belong several seams of coal, generally of trifling amount. One of these seams is at present worked at Crofthead. The slaty band ironstone lies eleven fathoms below this seam. It occurs in three layers or plies, averaging in all about fourteen inches thick, the lower layer having from half an inch to one inch of coal adhering to the bottom of it The strata above the slaty band is composed of shale, which contains balls of ironstone, which are worked along with the slaty band in the ** following," or part of the overlaying strata, which is taken down in order to make the workings the proper height From twenty- three to twenty- five fathoms below the slaty band, there is a bed of ironstone balls, which contain a very high per centage of iron. These balls lie in a bed of clay, from four to four and a half feet thick. From forty- five to forty-eight fathoms below this bed, there is another bed of ironstone balls, from two to two and a-half feet thick, lying below a mixture of sandstone and clay, the floor being composed of bastard limestone, from one foot to sixteen inches thick. Sixteen fathoms below this, there is a bed of lime- stone, which probably belongs to the limestone series which occurs at Levenseat, in the county of Edinburgh, and which lies beneath it Below this, the coals which are found at Wilsontown, Wood- muir, and Longford, in the counties of Lanark and Edinburgh, occur. The series to which the slaty band belongs lies between the Levenseat limestone and the west country coal, called the Drumgray coal. There appears to be a great mass of sandstone between the slaty band series and the Levenseat limestone. It is considered a doubtful point whether the slaty band field extends much beyond the district in which it is at present worked. It has been found at Langside, in the parish of Shotts, and was sup- posed to have been found about a mile and a-half south from Crofihead. ^* Although now so highly prized, the real nature and valuable properties of this kind of ironstone was, until within these few years, almost unknown. It was worked about forty years ago by the Wilsontown Iron Company, on the lands of Wester Handax- M. woody in the county of Edinburgh ; but its valuable properties were then unknown, and it was supposed that it jdid not extend to the north side of Breich Water, whereas the greater ^'swn. ^ 80 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. this^ironstone has now been found to lie on the north gide of water. The whole of the slaty band as yet worked io this pw is in tack by the Shotts Iron Company, and Messrs Holdiwa of Coltness. A number of pits have been sunk, and a DQml of steam-engines are used for pumping and winding. Tbi are upwards of 200 workmen employed, who receive tn 2s. 6d. to ds. per ton for working the ironstone* The minen in this 6eld dip to the north-west one foot in seven. The iro stone is worked in the Longwall or Shropshire manner, and subsiding of about eighteen inches takes place* Great care required in regulating the air-courses, and numerous air-pits ai sometimes required in consequence of the great quantity of su phurous vapour exhaled from the ironstone. When brought i the surface, the ironstone is removed on railways a short distanc from the pits, where it is piled in large heaps for the purpose c being calcined. These heaps vary in size, according as it ' found most convenient, from a few hundred up to 2000 to Previous to being set on fire, the mass is covered with asher order to exclude the air, otherwise the ironstone becomes oxic' and of a reddish colour. 1000 tons of ironstone is, when calc reduced to 64 tons, and the quantity of iron got from the stone is estimated as high as forty-two per cent. When pre calcined, it has a very open texture, in consequence of the naceous matter having been consumed, for which reason it for mixing with other kinds of iron when put in the fur order tomake them flow more easily. Whilst the procef cining is carried on, the smoke has a very stifling eflec^ sequence of the sulphurous vapour which is given out * it, and sulphur is found deposited on the top of the hr vapour has a most devastating effect on the vegetat' the ground in some places near the pits being tota^ vegetation ; and on the lands of Crofthead, a young p been totally destroyed. When the water was pumf old workings of Wester Handaxwood in spring 1^ much impregnated with sulphate of iron, that it ki the Breich and Almond waters, into which it flow a number of faults or dislocations in this field, run in the direction of the dip and rise, and vary few inches to about nineteen feet, but they are r or frequency of occurrence as materially to impr the ironstone." WHITBURN. ^l II. — Civil History. Land-owners. — These are, Sir Wiiliam Baillie of Polkemmet, patron ;* Alexander Weir, Esq. of Boghead ; George Napier» Esq. of Little'^Blackburn ; James Waddle, Esq. of Crofkhead, &c Antiquities. — In Cowhill, two gold pieces of Roman coin were dug up in a bog. The late Samuel Muir, Rector of Perth Academy^ who was said to have been master of the grammar of eighteen different languages, received the first elements of his education in this parish. III. — Population. The number of inhabitants in this parish stood as follows at the different census : Year 1755, 1121 1791, . 1322 IfiOI, . 1537 1821, . 19U0 1831, . 2075 1841, . 2596 IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The parish contains 10,019 English acres. The improvements of which husbandry is susceptible in this pa- rish are considerable. The ground being clay, or till bottom, it much requires draining, which is not yet carried to that extent it might. In some few places, the soil is of such a stiff nature that draining proves of little benefit. There is a great want of good enclosures and fences in some parts of this parish. Plantations are getting up. Quarries. — Several stone quarries are open in the pafish, one at Blackburnhaugh, and another at Longridge. Whinstone is to be found. There are some good sand quarries ; one of a white sili- ceous nature, which makes excellent garden-walks. There is ano- ther of red sandstone. V, — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church is most eonvenient. When this parish was disjoined from Livingston, it lAs opened for public worship on the 2lst October 1718; but there was preaching before from the year 162a f The church was erected and partly endowed by public subscriptions. • The progenitoTS of Sir William Baillie came originally from Lanarkshire. They purchased the property of Polkeminet in the sixteenth century from Mr Andrew Shaw, a brief account of whom will be found in Spottiswood*s History. X Cargill, it is said, preached there on the Sabbath prior to the excommunication gt Torwood. LINLITHGOW. ' 82 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. The extent of the glebe is between six and seven acres. T1 final decreet of locality for the stipend, though many yearii befe the court, is not yet determined, but over and above the stipeo L. 100 arises to the minister from a mortification in the conn of Lanark, and which entitles him to a vote for member of Puiii ment, besides the vote in Linlithgow county. There are three Dissenting meeting-houses in the parish. D vine service in the Established Church is well attended, and tl majority of the parishioners are attached to it Secession origi nated here from the parishioners being frustrated in obtaining vote for the minister, notwithstanding they had contributed to til erection of the church with that special end in view. The amount of collections in the parish church used to be be tween L.46 and L.50 in the year ; but it has been less of late. Ministers. — The Rev. Alexander Wardrope, first minister o the church of Whitburn, was the descendant of a respectable h mily in this place. He was licensed to preach about 1722, ar some time after, was ordained at Muckhart. (Vide Sketch him by the late Rev. John Brown.) We find Mr Wardrope me tioned in Erskine's Memoirs as one of his correspondents. Wardrope took an active share in the discussion usually called *^ Marrow Controversy." Mr Wardrope, however, excelled as a preacher than a controversialist People came in r from very great distances to hear him. The individual who succeeded Mr Wardrope was Dr Porteous. He was the son of the Rev. James Porteous c vaird. He was bom on the 10th of March (O. S.) 173 the Memoir of his life, it appears that he became one o able ministers of the Church of Scotland in his day. ' planned the Glasgow Society of the Sons of the CI has endeared his memory to the Church. In the s humanity and zeal for the best interests of men, he f all his public and private influence the noble and e of the British and Foreign Bible Society. And i motion before the Church courts, there was appoint^ lie collection which was ever made in Scotland fr that institution. He was ordained minister of T 10th of June 1760, where he laboured for ter 28th June 1770, he was appointed minister of S gow, where he set agoing Sabbath schools, anr the benefit of the poor. WHITBURN. 83 The next minister who succeeded Dr Porteous as minister of Whitburn was the Rev. Mr Baron, who afterwards became Pro- fessor of Moral Philosophy in the University of St Andrews. Professor Baron was bom at Kershall, in the parish of Corstor- phine, in 1735 ; he died in I80a He received the greater part of his education at the University of Edinburgh. His first settlement took place at Wamfray. His reception in the parish was not very en- couraging; but similar occurrences were not very unusual at that time. In 1774, he published an essay on the mechanical principles of the plough, and in 1777, a " History of the Colonization of the Free States of Antiquity, applied to the present Contest between Great Britain and her American Colonies.** This work attracted much notice, in this country, and on the continent. It called forth several keen replies in England, and in the following year a French translation was published at Utrecht. When at Whitburn, he likewise wrote his history of the political connection between Great Britain and Ireland, which was published about 1780. Soon after be went to St Andrews. It is proper to mention, that he wrote an account of the life of Thomson, which was prefixed to an edition of the ** Seasons,'* published at Edinburgh. He also was a contributor to the Edin- burgh Magazine. Among the distinguished men who then adorn- ed the literature of Scotland, few were more conspicuous than the late Lord Kames. With him Mr Baron lived on terms of fa- miliar intercourse. His Lordship, about this time, succeeded in reviving the Philosophical Society of Edinburgh, originally es- tablished by the celebrated Maclaurin. Of this Society Mr Baron was a member. In a few years, chiefly at the instigation of Prin- cipal Robertson, this Society merged in another on a more extended plan, and was incorporated by royal charter under the name of the Royal Society of Edinburgh. Of this Society Mr Baron was an original member. He was nominated Professor of Rhetoric and Logic in the University of St Andrews without his knowledge. This appointment compelled him to give up his benefice at Whit- bum ; but as a compensation for the loss of his living, the King was, many years afterwards, pleased to confer upon him a pension of L. 100 a-year. His Lectures on Rhetoric were published in 1806. Mr Baron was succeeded in the charge by Dr James Somerville. He was bom in Camwath in the year 1747. He was appointed minister of Whitburn in 1779, in which charge he laboured about 84 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. ten years. (Vide account of Dr Sommervile in Dr Stevens*! hi tory, also prefixed to the volume of his published discourtes.) Dr Somerville was succeeded in the charge by the Rev. Jan Rhind, who was admitted minister of Whitburn in 1790. H successor was the Rev. James Watson, who was translated froi the presbytery of Orkney. The Rev. Archibald Bruce, minister of the Associate Congn gation, and teacher of the theological class at Whitburn under tb inspection of the (late) General Associate Synod, was a mao c such eminent attainments in theology and literature, that his nam deserves to be here recorded. In the year 1780, he publishei " Free Thoughts on the Toleration of Popery ;" a work of nuN elaborate research, which has furnished subsequent writers upo the subject with a rich store of materials, and which procured SI Bruce the friendship of Lord George Gordon, upon whom Bl Bruce waited when in London in the year 1782, and who, a yea 01* two later, visited Mr Bruce at Whitburn. The following worki among many others, issued from his pen : ** Introductory and Oc casional Lectures,** delivered in the Theological Academy Whitburn ; *' A Dissertation on the Supremacy of Civil Pov in Matters of Religion ;" translation from the French of " courses on the True and False Religion, by Pictet." Vide 9 of Mr Bruce in. the Life of Dr M^Crie. Education. — There are five schools ; two are endowed sum of L.4250 left to the schools of this and Cambusnet rishes. The salaries of the teachers of these two school pendently of the school-fees, at present amount to less thar besides free house and garden. The parish schoolmaster's the maximum, L.34, 4s. 4id. He has also a glebe of t acres, Scotch measure. He has the legal accommodati amount of school-fees may be about L.20 per annum. Libraries.-^There are two libraries in the parish, village and the other at Longridge. Jpril 1 84a PARISH OF UPHALL. PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWEEDDALB. THE REV. GEORGE BOAG, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Extent^ (J-c. — The extreme length of the parish, from east to west, is 4 miles, and breadth from north to south about 3 miles. It contains 3120 Scots acres. It is bounded on the north, by Ecclesmachen and Linlithgow ; on the east, by Kirkliston ; on the south, by Mid-Calder; and on the west, by Livingston and Ecclesmachen. The highest part of the parish is probably not 380 feet above the level of the sea. Toward the north-west, however, where the church and manse stand, it is so elevated as to have a commanding view of the country to the east and south-east as far as Edinburgh Arthur's Seat, and the Pentland hills, and even North Berwick Law, as well as the Lammermoor hills, are seen in the distance. The parish anciently was named Strathbrock, which signifies " the valley of brocks or badgers." II. — Civil History. Parochial Registers. — These are chiefly records of marriages, baptisms, and proceedings of session. Registers of marriages and baptisms seem to have been regularly kept, and are for the most part extant, for upwards of two hundred and forty years. Records of the deeds of session have been regularly kept since the establish- ment of Presbyterianism, after the Revolution. During the time of Episcopacy, before the Revolution, a register of burials seems to have been kept, which is still extant; but since that time, this was for the most part neglected, till the beginning of the year 1840, when the regular registration of burials was com- menced. Lafid-aumers. — The Earl of Buchan is the principal land-owner and patron of the parish. The valuation of his Lordship's pro- perty situate in this parish, being the estate of Strathbrock, and part of that of Amondell, is L.3326. Strathbrock, according i. Regni ab Ardni deinceps Justitiani Generalis facto functi viij kalend Deceoib aetatis 63 anno domini 1679." The present Earl, to whose hereditary possessions have be added the estates of Livingstone and Rosebery, in West and M Lothian, was bom at Bambougle, 14th October 1783, and hast sons and three daughters, the eldest of whom. Lord Dalmeoy* M. P. for the Stirling burghs. His Lordship is Lord LieuteM of the county of Linlithgow. Family of Ihmda» of Dundas. — The family of Dundas, w hold the portion of the remainder of the parish proper, a lai and valuable demesne surrounding the elegant mansion, built the present proprietor in conjunction with the old baronial car is by &r the most ancient now extant of any in the pai Huttred, the first of this remote ancestry, is said, on the autho of a charter from King David L to the Abbey of Melrose, to Y been a son of Gospatrick, grandfather of Gospatrick, first of Dunbar and March* This supposition is confirmed by tl* cumstance of Heliaf^ the son of Huttred, obtaining a charter lands of Dundas from his uncle, Waldevus, son of the fir patrick. This charter, which b still in possession of the is one of the oldest original private writs in Scotland, and following words : *' Waldivus filius Gospatricii omnibus pr minibus tam futuris quam preseiitibus, salutem. Sciatb dissie et concessisse et hac carta mea confirmasse Helio f tredi Dundas pro servitio dimidii militis, ilium et her tenendum, de me ethaeredibus meis, in feudoet hssredil ris, in aquis, in stagnis, in molendinis, in pratis, in past omnibus rectis et divisu et pertinentiis, concede itaque q precipio ut iste predictus Helias istam terram habeat et DALMENV. ^^ quiete tain libere ettam honorifice ut nullus miles de barone tenet iiberius et quietius et boiiorificentius in tota terra Regis Scotie. His testibus, Joanne filio Orm. WaldevoBlio Baldwin Roberto de Sancto Michaele, Helio de Hadestanden aWillielmo de Copland, Wiilieimo de Hellebes. Alano Dapifero, Gerardo Milite Joannede Gragin." This charter, which has no date, must have been granted prerious to I \ 2*2, in which year, Robertas de Sancto Michaele, one of the witnesses, was made Bishop of St Andrews. The lands of Dundas continued in the direct male line for twelve generations, when James de Dundas died, without male issue, in 1450, and was succeeded by his brother, Sir Archibald, whose son and successor was several times sent on an embassy to England, and enjoyed the confidence of King James III. to such a degree, that he created him Earl of Forth in 1488 ; but the patent, though signed, not hav. ingpassed the King's seal, previous to the death of that unfortunate monarch, was held to be invalid. From this period, the property has again descended in the male line direct through other twelve ge- nerations, some of them figuring conspicuously both in the civil and ecclesiastical history of the country, and giving rise to the collateral * branches of the families of that name, of Melville, Arniston, Dud- dingstone, and Carron-hall. The estate had nearly again diverged from this line of succession, on the death of the father of the present proprietor, who perished in command of the Winterton East India- man, on the coast of Madagascar, in August 1792« His son, James Dundas, Esq. the present proprietor, who was born in January fol- lowing, having, by his wife Lady Mary Duncan, daughter of the Hero of Camperdown, a family of six sons and five daughters, bids fair to transmit this venerable name and inheritance to a late posterity. Eminent Men. — The only person eminent as an author known to have belonged to this parish, was William Wilkie, born at Echline in 1721. He was first minister of Ratho, and then Pro- fessor of Natural Philosophy in the University, where he died in 1772. His principal work, the Epigoniad, has been much and justly admired, especially the Episode of Hercules. Auldcathy, the portion of the parish lying to the west, as for- merly described, appears to have been formerly part of the crown lands, but was along with the lands of Kinneil and Larbert, be- stowed by King Robert Bruce in 1324, upon Sir Walter Hamil- ton of Cadzow, ancestor of the Duke of Hamilton, and continued a long time in that noble family. After passing tK't^w's^ >i^Osjc5ss^i». HO LINLITHGOWSHIRE. of various proprietors, it was sold by the first Earl of Haddington in 1721, to the Earl of Hopetoun, in whose family it now r»** mains. Antiquities, — Among the antiquities of this parish, the aocMOl Castle of Dundas is entitled to a prominent place. It standi ia conjunction with the modern mansion on the brpw of a craggy hill of that name, which signifies, *^ the hill of falloif deer," and from which numerous bones of deer, and others of large dimensiotts have been dug up. Its precise age cannot now be ascertaiuadt though it is supposed to have stood since the beginning of the eleventh century. Several additions were made to it about 1418» when it was turned into a fortalice by warrant from Robert, Duke of Albany, and by a subsequent one, from James I. in 1424» Its walls, which are very massive, were at that time raised to the height of 75 feet. Its apartments are all arched, and a circular stair leads to the top, which is flat, and surrounded by a battlementf from which the view is magnificent. Immediately under the north front of the present castle, there still stands a stone fountain of * most curious workmanship, which originally occupied the centre of a parterre enclosed with walls of hewn stone 12 feet, and of vast thickness, with flights of stairs in the middle, and a banqueting house at each corner. This fountain, which was supplied by water brought in pipes from a distance, is ornamented with numero^ figures cut in the stone, and bears on its sides a long inscriptior rather doggrel Latin, divided into stanzas, setting forth that purpose for which it was erected by Sir Walter Dundas, in year of man's redemptipn 1623, and 61st of his age, waf perpetuate his own memory to be an ornament to his coi and family, — a gratification to his friends, and a terror to sp and depredators, and that the parched garden might be m ed with the water of the fountain. Tradition relates t cause of this most expensive work was his disappointmen loss of the barony of Barnbougle, for the purchase of w had collected a large sum of money, when it fell into thi of the Earl of Haddington. The expense of it was so er as to involve him in diflSculties from which he never r Whilst it was in the course of erection, it is said that he so much in the noise of hewing the stones, that in a fit o which confined him to his bed, he ordered the masons t that operation in his antichamber* At the west end o ferry is the ancient monastery of the Carmelite friars, ^ DALMENY. 101 1332 by Sir George Dundas of Dundas. It consists of a square tower with two wings, the one of which is entire, and is now the burial-place of the family* The tower, which was the dwelling- place of the monks, bears the marks of fire. One of the brethren of this monastery was Symon de Cramond, son of the family of Cramond of that Ilk, who, going abroad, rose to the dignity of pa- triarch of Anlioch. Father Hay, in his " Scotia Sacra," men- tions that there was a monastery of the order of the Holy Trinity at Dalmeny in 1297, and another of the same order at Queens- ferry, The small island of Inchgarvey, which signifies rough or rocky island, in the middle of the Frith, between the south and north ferries, is another of the ancient possessions of the family of Dun- das. It was granted to John Dundas in 1491 by King James IV* in lieu of his extensive property of Bothkenner, which had beetl forfeited by his adherence to James III., with power to build a fort upon it, of which he and his heirs were to be perpetual gover- nors, and with the right of levying certain duties on vessels pas- sing up the Frith. In the regency of Albany, during the mino- rity of James V., Inchgarvey* seems to have been employed as a state prison, to which the celebrated Secretary Pauter was com- mitted by that weak and tyrannical ruler. When Albany went to France in 1517, he left Inchgarvey, together with Dunbar and Dumbarton, garrisoned with French soldiers, aj the charge, and to the great oppression, of the nation. It surrendered to Cromwell in 1651. The fortifications seem ffom that period to have been much neglected, till Paul Jones appeared in the Frith in 1779, when they were repaired and mounted with four twenty-pounders. During the late war, when an invasion was threatened from France, it was again repaired, and strengthened with some addi- tional pieces of ordnance, which, together with the batteries on shore sweeping the whole range of the Frith, was judged sufficient to protect the upper part of it from any hostile aggression. Among the antiquities of this parish, not the least remarkable is the pa- rish church, though its early history is unhappily lost in antiquity. From the style of its architecture, which is Anglo- Norman, and from its striking resemblance to the church of Narcoide, near Carlisle, which was built before the time of William the Conque- • The charter conveying this island is an autograph of His Majesty. There is al. io in the possession of the family a letter of James VI. inviting the then represent** tive to the baptism of his son, Charles I., and another from the same monaxcK v^ i|ueating Uie loan of a pair of silk stockings. 102 iJNI.ITIIGOWSinRF. ror, but which is greatly its inferior io point of embellisbmenCt V0 cannot err in referring it at the latest to the tenth or eleventh een* turies. It is a very elegant small fabric, all of cut stonei 84 taet loner and 25 broad, except at the east end, where it contracts into a semicircle. The pediments of the principal doors and window* arc richly carved, resting on single columns with (TOthic capitally and round the upper part of the building there is an emboetnieDt of carved faces, all dissimilar and of grotesque appearance. But the chief beauty of the church is in the interior, which has a itrik- ing eiTcct on entering from the west, especially from the upper part of the gallery. The body of the church is divided into three parts by two semicircular arches, that over the chancel being sa much smaller than the other as to render the perspective peculU ally pleasing. Tliey are both richly ornamented with successive tiers of mouldings of a zigzag or starry shape. This structure was repaired and refitted in 1816, in a manner corresponding tm its architectural beauty, though it is to be regretted that so fine and perfect a specimen of that peculiar style of building should be deformed externally by the addition of a modern cemetery for the family of Hosebery, and more recently of a private room belonging to that of Dundas. It seems originally to have formed part of the diocese of St Andrews, and to have been granted during the thir* tceiith century to the AI)bey of Jedburgh, in the reign of William or Alexander II., to which it pertained till the annexation of the church lands to the Crown by James VI. in 159G. From the crown-charter conveying thc^ rights of the lands and barony of Dahneny, and the fortalice of Barnbougle, with the patronage or " capallaniu! et altaris Sancti Adamani infra ecclesiam parochia^ lem de Dummany/' it would appear to have been dedicated to St Adaman, as the adjoining parish of Cramond was to St Co- lumba and the Virgin Mary, the right of presenting to all these altars, which were frequently separate endowments, being vested in the family of Moubray, At the door of the church there is a fc^tone-co(!]n of large dimensions, cut from a single block, and co» vcred both on the lid and sides with hieroglyphics which cannot now be deciphered. It was found near to its present position, in digging a grave belonging to the Stewarts of Craigie, but nothing can be traced of its origin. Coffins of similar material, but of much simpler and ruder construction, have been found in other parts of the parish, one of which is still to be seen with its end ])rojecting from the bank formed by a cut through Craigiehill on the road leading to Kirkliston. It scarcely seems to admit of dalmeny. 103 doubt, that the great Roman military way, which proceeded from Northumberland by Eildon and Soutra to the Fentland hills, and thence by Ravelston to Cramond, which was evidently a maritime station on the Bodotria, and where numerous vestigia have been discovered, was continued by Barnbougle and Dalmeny through Abercorn to Carriden to the eastern extremity of the wall of An- toninus. About a mile, accordingly, to the west of Queensferry there were, about a century ago, remains to be seen of what was suppos- ed to be ^* a Roman Speculatorium, consisting of a large carved window, a square pillar, and a considerable quantity of hewn stones, which, it is said, were carried to Dunkirk. There were found here also several silver medals of Marcus Antoninus, with a vic- tory on the reverse ; also, the carved handle of a copper vessel, and the bottom of an earthen urn, with the word adjecti, the rest obliterated."* At Springfield, a little to the westward of this spot, there was discovered recently, in digging near the house, a skeleton of large size, and a trench of considerable breadth and depth, filled with human bones. A brass pot, and in it a pagan idol, were exhumed near Queensferry, on the lands of Dundas, in 1738, which the workmen, through a mistaken zeal, instantly de- molished. Not far from Dundas Castle, there was found also, at a considerable depth between the parallel walls discovered under ground, a Roman coin with the letters tan distinctly inscribed, the rest illegible, and the handle of a vessel supposed to have been a sympusium used by the Romans in their sacrifices. About a mile to the west of Barnbougle Castle, on the top of a high sea- bank, is an ancient cairn, called Earl Cairney, of a circular shape, originally 500 feet in circumference, and 24 feet in height, though now considerably dilapidated, which was probably a sepulchral mo- nument. Parochial Registers. — The earliest date of the parochial regis- ters is 1628. They are considerably dilapidated, and sometimes irregular, till within the last century ; from which time, they have been kept with considerable accuracy. The patronage of the parish, which was derived in 1540 from the abbot and convent of Jedburgh, has belonged since that pe- riod to the barony of Barnbougle, and was vested in Sir Archibald Primrose and his heirs, by the charter conveying to him that pro^ perty. Since the restoration of the right of patronage by the act of Queen Anne in 1712, it has been uniformly exercised, accord- * Old Statistical Accountt 104 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. iiigly, by the Earls of Rosebery, under protest from the Earl of Hopetoiin, who claimed the right altemis vicibus^ in virtue of his possession of the parsonage of Auldcathie, which had been uniU ed to the parish of Dalmeny in 1618, Lord Binning being then the patron of both. By a judgment of the Court of Session in 1835, the latter nobleman was found to be entitled to the alter* nate presentation. Ministers of the PamA.— The earliest incumbent in this parish of whom there is any authentic record, was John Gibbisone, minis* tcr of Dalmeny, and parson and vicar of Auldcathie from 1610^ where he is said to have succeeded George Lawder of Bass, who united the advantages of patron and parson. Mr Gibbisone seems to have died about 1648, and was succeeded by John Durie, who had been appointed by the presbytery colleague and successor to him in the then united parish. At his death in 1G56, Alexander Hamilton was ordained and admitted minister of Dalmeny by a call from the heritors and elders, the act of 1649 abolishing patronage being then in force. He was deprived for nonconformity in 1662, re- poned in 1669, and* transported to Edinburgh at the Revolution, where he died in 1696, and was buried in Cramond. Charles Gror- don, minister of a Presbyterian congregation in Campvere, in Hol- land, was appointed his successor in September 1691, in virtue ulso of a call from the heritors and elders, in terms of the act 1690. He was removed to Ashkirk in the same year, and died in 1710. From the date of his translation to 1700^ the parish seems to have remained vacant, the rents of the ministers glebe being gifted by the Earl of Rosebery as patron, for the benefit of the poor, and two silver communion cups, bearing the family arms, presented by him for the use of the parish, and now its property, furth of a part of the vacant stipends yet undisposed of." Between 1700 and 1711, John Steedman held the cure. The last appointment pre- vious to the Act 1712, was that of James Nasmyth, who was in-« ducted in 1711, and died at Dalmeny in 1774, in the ninety- first year of his age. Dr Robertson, who was a person of some learn« ing, and furnished the previous Statistical Account of the parish, was settled in 1775, and died at Edinburgh, 15th November 1799. In the following year, James Greig, the late minister, was appointed, and continued till his death in 1829^ when the present incumbent was translated from Torphichen. III. — Population*. The population of the united parishes was in 1831, 1201^ be* 3 DALMENY. lOd ing a decrease of 204 from that of 1621. It is almost entirely agricultural, with the exception of about fifty families in the towD of Queensferry, (part of which belongs to Dalmeny,) and at New- halls, — who are engaged in fishing and various domestic trades^ Amount of population in 184], 1393. IV. — Industry. Most of the farm-houses, and several of the office-houses^ are slated ; the former generally substantial and commodious, and in some instances elegant. The farms comprise from 80 to upwards of 300 acres ; some of them cultivated with a degree of skill and enterprise highly creditable. The four rotation system is that commonly in use ; but, of late years, the grazing of cattle and the better breeds of sheep have thrown a much larger portion into pasture than formerly, — a prac- tice which is found not only to yield a better immediate return than a constant succession of white and green crops, but greatly to improve the land, and render it more productive. The parish is now almost universally drained according to the improved mode of placing the drains in every alternate furrow, at the distance of thirty-six feet apart, the tenant paying, besides the carriages, a per centage during his lease, on the outlay of the landlord. The soil of the higher grounds, which is chiefly clay on a cold bottom, bordering in some places on till, passes in its descent to the lower grounds into the richest loam. One field, in particular, known by the name of the Kirk Park, is so exceedingly fertile, as to have acquired the distinction of *' perpetual soil." The minister's gar- den, which is of the same quality, and immediately adjoins it, i» said to have produced abundant crops of potatoes and other ve- getables, for six or seven years successively, without manure* The number of acres in the parish is about 5850 imperial^ of which about 1000 belong to the estate of Craigiehall, 2600 to that of Dalmeny, 1600 to that of Dundas, and 650 to that of Hopetoun. This last portion is chiefly in the disjoined part, called Auldcathy, of which the Earl of Hopetoun is the sole proprietor. The portion of it actually under the plough, which may be stated at 4000 acres imperial, is let on leases of nineteen years, at a rent of from L.l, 5s. to L.d, averaging L.2, 3s. 6d., payable for the most part in money and grain. The pasture, which may amount to 1000 acres, about 700 of which are within the grounds of Dalmeny Park, is let annually at from L. 2 to L.2, 10s. per imperial acre. There are under wood about 85(i 1 106 LlNLITHtiOWSUIRB. acres, including that on the ezteiuive policies of the ragpaclifn; proprietors, and the double hedge-rows of trees that line oioit of the parish roads, and subdiride several of the farms, adding mudi to the richness and beauty of the landscape, though perhaps not to its productiveness. The wood consists principally of oak, ash, elniv ])lane, and beech and fir, of about eighty years' growth ; though some of it, which is of large dimensions and of the finest quality, may have stood upwards of two centuries. The gross rental of the portions of the parish under cultivatioo may be estimated at L^700, and in pasture at L.225Q. The vahied rent is L.9398^ 10s. lOd. Scots, thus allocated :^ The Earl of Rowbery, L.4U04 2 7 Mr DundoofDundM, 2190 8 6 Mr Hop« Vere of CmigidMlU 1905 12 7 The Earl of HopetouD, . 1066 IS 4 > Both now Karl of Roaebery, 990 18 ( Hopetouiu Qucenaferrj Acrea, fte. 40 12 6 The produce Daay average three quarters wheat, five quarters b'lrley, and sis quarters oats ; a large proportion of the land oo each farm being regularly under turnip crop, which is partly eat off by sheep, and partly used for feeding cattle. V. — Parochial Economy. . Villagei. — There are no villages of any extent within the parish, the greater part of the population, not purely agricultural, or at- tached to the establishments of the large proprietors being resident in the two ends of the town of Queensferry amounting to nearly 400. The small village of Dalmeny, which is delightfully situated nearly in the centre of the parish, on the road leading westward to Dundas, and commanding a view of the Frith of Forth, consists only of about a dozen of cottages, besides the church, manse, and and school-house, with a green in the middle. RocuiSf ilS*c. — The parish roads are generally excellent; the Great North Road from Edinburgh, unequalled perhaps in Bri- tain for its width and condition, entering it at Cramond Bridge, an elegant structure erected at great expense over the Almond, in the year 1821. It terminates at Newhalls, where there is a good and commodious inn. From this place the steam-passage*boats sail to North Queensferry every hour between sunrise and sunset, returning from the opposite side at each intermediate half-hour. The fares, which are generally considered high, are, for each passenger, dd. ; for a horse. Is. ; a two-wheeled carriage, 2s. 6d. ; a four-wheeled do. 7s. 6d. ; and for cattle, J6d. Aphead ; and for DALMKNY. 107 sheep, 2s. per score. They are let by public roup at present for three years, at a rent of L.1900, — a sum which has been gradually increasing, notwithstanding the general establishment of steam conveyance to Dundee and Aberdeen, but which will probably suffer a diminution, should the plan now projecting, of building a deep water pier at Burntisland, in conjunction with that lately erected at Granton, and communicating with a railway north- wards, be carried into effect. At present, the North Mail, the Defiance to Aberdeen, the Coburg to Perth, and the Antiquary to Dunfermline and Crieff, from Edinburgh, cross and recross daily. Ecclesiastical State, — The church is conveniently situated for (he parish proper, and is seated for about 350 persons. There is also a Dissenting meeting-house in the west end of the town of Queensferry, in connection with the United Associate Synod, which draws its supplies to the amount of about 500, from five adjacent parishes. Of these there are between twenty and thirty families belonging to the parish of Dalmeny. The rest are, or profess to be, in communion with the Church. The number of actual communicants is in summer about 250, and in winter some- what less. The attendance may be termed good, though the church is considerably too small for the amount of the population. The stipend, which was allocated in 1823, consists of 17 chal- ders victual, half barley and half oatmeal, at the Linlithgow fiars prices, with L.8, 6s. 8d. Sterling for communion elements. Ori- ginally, the teinds of the parish, as given up at a judicial court of the abbey of Jedburgh in 1 626 were 20 chalders victual, whereof were to be paid to the minister two chalders and 400 merks. Education. — There is a Sabbath school taught in the church during the summer months by the clergyman, while a number of the people attend as hearers ; and another at Cramond Bridge throughout the whole year, supported by the Christian liberality of a lady not immediately connected with the parish, — and taught by one or other of the agents of the Edinburgh Gratis Sabbath School Society. The parochial school, which is the only one in the parish, is well attended. It has long been celebrated as a healthful and de- sirable place for boarders, of whom the present schoolmaster stilt receives a limited number. The salary is the maximum of L.34v 4s. d^d., with L.300 Sterling mortified by Lady Grizell Semple in 1723. This sum is vested at the instance of the Earl of GUy^^- bery and the minister for the time beiu^, ^%vc>isX^^"s»\Qx\i^wi\^^ 108 LINLITHGOWSHIIIE. the school, and the annual interest paid to the schoolmaster oa condition of his teaching gratuitously as many poor children as the trustees or kirk-session may choose to send. Lord Rosebery is also in terms of this grant entitled to present to the office when it be- comes vacant. The fees are 2s. 6d. for reading, ds. for other branches, and 7s. 6d. for Latin, Greek, French, and mathematics. The school- house and dwelling-house are commodious and com- forlable. The manse and offices are in good repair ; the latter neatly built for the present incumbent ; the former nearly a cen- tury old, of plain construction and moderate dimensions. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The two ends of Qucensferry, as may be supposed, contain almost all the pauperism of the parish, which, from the causes above-mentioned, is in large proportion i6 the amount of the population. The average number of paupers on the parish roll receiving supply regularly or occasionally is 35w In the summer months, several of them are cut off, and the annual expenditure for this department is L.90 Sterhng. The funds are derived from collections at the church door, amounting to from L.20 to L.dO yearly ; rent of land held in perpetual lease by the Earl of Rosebery to a similar amount, according to the 6ars' price of oatmeal ; a sum of L«ld5, lent on bond ; and a voluntary as* sessment by the heritors for what may be short of the sum requir* cd for the poor and other parochial expenses. Besides this regu« lar provision for the poor, those of them who live in the suburbs of the parish of Queensferry are entitled to a share of the annual produce of a large bequest of L.dOOO by a Mr Meek, a native of that place, who left it for the common behoof of both parishes, UD« der the management of the kirk-session of the latter. There is also the interest of a sum of L.200 Sterling, bequeathed by James Da-^ vidson, Esq. son of a former schoolmaster of Dalmeny, not inter- mixed in any way with the parochial funds, but distributed at the instance of trustees named in his deed of settlement. To these benefactions, the Earl of Rosebery adds yearly the liberal sum of L.20, to be laid out in the purchase chiefly of coals and meal during the winter, with an unlimited discretion to the minister of expending, at his Lordship's charge, whatever more may be needful, to provide for unforeseen contingencies, — an example which reflects the highest credit on the benevolence of that distinguished noble- man, and which, if generally followed throughout the country, would greatly enhance the comforts, and elevate the character of the deserving poor. April 1843, PARISH OF ECCLESMACHAN. PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWEEDDALE, THE REV. JOHN SMITH, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name of this parish, so far back as can be traced, has been written Ecclesmachan. It is usually pronounced Inch- machan, a custom, apparently, of considerable antiquity; for in a list of parishes existing in 1581, and contained in ^* the Booke of the Universal Kirk," it stands Inchmachame. Of this name, va- rious Celtic etymologies have been proposed, but none of them appear satisfactory. The most probable is that assigned in the former Statistical Report, viz. Ecclesia Machani, or, in Gaelic, Eaglait Afachan, *' the Church of Machan." In Keith's Calen- dar of Scots Saints is mentioned a St Machan, who, it is said, died about the middle of the ninth century. What connection he had with this part of the country, it is presumed, cannot now be ascertained. ^ Extent and Boundaries, — The parish is divided into two un- equal portions, distant about one mile from each other, and se- parated by an outlying district of Linlithgow parish. The west- am division is about 2^ miles long, and 1^ broad; the eastern division is If miles long, by 1^ broad; and the extreme points are nearly 5 miles from each other. The extent in square miles is 3.83, or 2458 imperial acres. The outline is very irregular. It is bounded on the north by the parishes of Abercorn and Lin- lithgow ; on the west, by Bathgate ; on the south, by Livingstone and Uphall ; and, on the east, by Kirkliston and Auldcathie, a detached portion of Dalmeny parish. Topographical Appearances, — The two sections are each com- posed of a ridge of land. That on the west is the higher, as- cending, perhaps, to the height of 600 feet, intersected in several places by shallow ravines, and sloping chiefly to the south. The eastern ridge is lower, having on its southern edge a j^rettv ^.v^^^ 110 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. acclivity, called the Tar Hill, or perhaps the Tor Hill. The climate in the upper district is cold ; but in general it is salubrious, and, so far as has been observed, is not marked by any epidemical peculiarities. Several small streams, tributaries of thp Almond» flow eastward through the parish. Geology, — The district is on th% edge of the great Lothian coal-Geld, and it appears that coal was formerly worked in various places on the north. Sandstone occurs on most of the farms. I'he most prominent rocks are of triip, which seem to have dis- turbed greatly the strata in this neighbourhood. In the vicinity of these are found immense beds of indurated clay, interspersed occasionally with seams of clay-ironstone. The upper soil, which is chiefly formed from decomposed trap and indurated clay, is heavy, and highly retentive of moisture. From the trap rocks of the Tar Hill issues a spring, weakly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen. It is called the Bullion Well, and, though formerly visited by invalids, is now neglected. From the uniform nature of the soil, and the extent of tillage, the vegetation of this parish, though repeatedly examined, has been found to exhibit nothing peculiar. On the western heights, some of the subalpine mosses, such as Trichoatomum canescenM^ and T, htterostichuniy occur. n. — Civil History. Eminent Men, — Mr Alexander Hamilton, the first minister of this parish after the Revolution, was a man of distinguished talent and courage. It is said, that when a student, he took down the head of the celebrated James Guthrie from the Netherbow Fort of Edinburgh, where it had stood a public spectacle for many years ; and numerous stories are still current among the old people here about his skill as a swordsman, before he became a minister. He was translated first to Airth, and subsequently to Stirling, and was deeply involved in the *' Marrow Controversy.** The estate of Bangour gave designation to William Hamilton, Esq. a celebrated Scottish poet, in the early part of the last cen- tury. He was descended from one of the ancient families of the name of Hamilton, once numerous in the county of Linlithgow ; but whether he was born in this parish, or indeed resided in it^ the writer has not ascertained. In his youth he distinguished himself by numerous songs, and among these, *^ the Braes of Yarrow,*' published in the « Tea Table Miscellany.*' He is said ECCLESMACHAN. Ill § to have been a man of elegant accomplishments^ and of amiable manners. His poems are thus characterized by no mean judge» the late Lord Woodhouselee : *' Hamilton's mind is pictured in his verses. They are the easy and careless effusions of an elegant fancy and a chastened taste ; and the sentiments they convey are the genuine feelings of a tender and susceptible heart, which per- petually owned the dominion of some favourite mistress, but whose passion generally evaporated in song, and made no serious or per- manent impression/' Having entertained Jacobite predilectionsi he was engaged in the Rebellion in 1745 ; but, after a few years of exile, contrived to make his peace with the Government, and returned home. In 1754, he died at Lyons, in the 6ftieth year of his age, leaving behind him, besides some unpublished pieces, a volume of poetry, which has been repeatedly inserted in collec- tions of the British Poets. His patrimonial estate is now in the possession of his great grandson, James Hamilton, Esq. of Ban- gour and Ninewar, in East Lothian. The late incumbent of this parish, the Rev. Henry Listen, de- serves to be noticed among its few eminent men. He had a strong natural turn for mechanics and music. He was equally distin- guished for his scientific and classical attainments, and was in many other respects a man of genius. With talents adapted for a far wider sphere of usefulness, he spent his whole ministerial life of more than forty-two years in this secluded spot, endeared to his numerous friends by great warmth of heart and simplicity of character. His son is now a celebrated surgeon in London. Parochial Registers. — These exist in nearly unbroken sequence from 1662. The oldest, which is written in a fair hand, is en- titled ^^ Episcopall Discipline exercised by the Kirk-Session of Ecclesmachan." On the 28th of March 1683, it is minuted, '* Mr John Moubray, according to the appointment of the pres^ bytery, preached, and thereafter gave institution to Mr William Smairt to the ministry in this place, and the rest of the brethren off the presbytery gave the said Mr William the right hand off fellowship.'^ The only other noticeable peculiarity is a commis- sion from the Bishop of Edinburgh, in exercise of the civil power now vested in presbyteries, to certain ministers, authorizing them to visit and report on the manse and kirk of Ecclesmachan. The registers, subsequent to the Revolution, are kept in the usual form, and contain nothing remarkable. Land-owners — The proprietors are, the Earl of H.Ck^^v.wwv*. 112 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. James Hamilton, Esq. of Bangour; Robert Warden, Etq. of Blackcraig ; the Earl of Buchan also possesses a small pendicle of land. There is no country seat, nor any resident heritor in the parish. III.— Population. The population has probably diminished during the course of the last century, chiefly on account of the union of small farms, and the decay of the villages. There is now scarcely an individual in the parish who is not directly or indirectly employed in agri- culture. The following table will show the variations at the se- veral dates. We cannot account for the sm.illness of the number in 1792. Tlic popuJation in 1 755, according to Dr Webster, was 830 1792, former Statistical Account, "215 1801, Government census, . 303 1811, Do. . . 267 1B21, Do. . . d!)3 1831, Do. . . 299 1841, Government census, 303 The last amount was partially increased by an influx of railway labourers. A private census in 1839, which ascertiiincd only 263 inhabitants, gave the following results : Persons under fifteen years of age, 103; between fifteen and thirty, 76; between thirty and fifty, 35; between fifty and seventy, 19; above seventy, 10. The number of unmarried men above fifty, 6 ; number of unmarried women and widows above forty-five, 10. There are 31 fami« lies. The average number of children in families where there are any, is 3. The number of inhabited houses is 50 ; uninha- bited, 4. For the last three years, the average number of births is seven annually ; of deaths, two ; of marriages, one. In these three years have been born three illegitimate children. Forty-one families and 220 individuals belong to the Established Church ; ten families and 43 individuals are attached to the Dis- senters. Of these are eleven farmers, three blacksmiths, two car- penters, one mason, one tailor, two weavers, and ten day labourers. The rest of the males, and many of the females, are employed in agriculture. For many years past, there has not been a public- house in the parish. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The whole parish has been enclosed mostly by hedge and ditch, and only a few acres in it have never been sub- jected to the plough. The whole surface employed in tillage and pasture, little of which is permanent, may be estimated at 2310 ECCLESMACHAN. 113 imperial acres. On maDy of the fisirras^ the most improved sys- tem of husbandry has been introduced ; much^ however, remains to be done in the way of draining. In the western district of the parish, where, on account of the elevation, wheat is seldom or never grown, the usual rotation of crop is the following : oats green crop or fallow; barley or oats; hay ; pasture for one or two years. In the lower district, on heavy land, the crops are usually arranged thus : &llow, wheat, beans, barley, hay or pas- ture, oats; and, on the drier soils, thus, oats, turnip, barley, hay or pasture. In general, the tenant is restricted only to the extent that he is not permitted to take two green crops in succes* sion without manuring each of them. Throughout the whole of this country, there is an inclination to diminish the green crop, and to return to the old fallow system* With the exception of two or three, the farms are all under 150 imperial acres. They are all let on leases of nineteen years. The maximum rent is about L.2 the Scotch acre, and the mini- mum, L.1, 5s. The average rent is about L.1, 10s. the Scotch acre. On the Earl of Hopetoun's property, the rent is paid chiefly by the value of grain, ascertained from the annual Bars of Linlithgowshire. The gross average rental of the parish is about L.2845. It may be worth while to add, that the annual value of real property, as assessed by Government in 1815, was L.»3051. Live-Stock, — The rearing of cattle is not pursued to any great extent ; but a few short-horned bulls have been introduced, and between them and the Ayrshire breed, a valuable cross has been obtained, which is likely to be cultivated with success. Most of the grass is depastured, and the green crop consumed by Highland or Angus-shire oxen, purchased at the northern fairs, or by black- faced sheep procured from the same quarter. Produce. — The following may be taken as an estimate of the gross value of products from land in ordinary years : Grain, . Li.5225 . Green crop, including beans, 1100 Haj, .... 765 Pasture, . . 870 L.7960 Plantations. — There are about 130 imperial acres of growing wood. It is mostly young, and little or none of it has ever been brought to the markets A considerable part of it was planted by the late Robert Warden^ Esq., who thereby greatly improved and tidorned his estate of Blackcraig. Shelter is still wanted in soccv^ quarters of the parish. LINLITHGOW. "O- 1 14 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. V. — Parochial Economy. Villages. — There is scarcely a village in the parish, the hamlet at the church containing only eighteen houses. Post-Office. — The nearest post-office is at Uphall, which is dis- tant little more than a mile. Market- Towns. — The markets frequented by the farmers are those of Linlithgow and Bathgate, which are about five miles re- spectively from the centres of the two districts of the parish. Means of Communication. — The road from Edinburgh to Fal- kirk passes through the northern extremity for about half a mile» and the middle Glasgow road nearly touches the southern border. The parish roads are kept in excellent repair. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situate in the south- ern corner of the smallest section of the parish ; but in the most convenient position possible for the generality of the inhabitants. It was in a great measure rebuilt in the beginning of last century, and having undergone a thorough repair in 1822, it is at present in excellent order, and is neat and comfortable. It is provided with 153 sittings, which might easily be increased, if required, to about 200. It is about four miles by the road from the most dis- tant house. Considering the smallness of the population, the atF> tendance is generally good. The manse is supposed to have been built about 1606 ; but an addition was made in 1800 ; and though the accommodation is not extensive, it is, on the whole, sufficiently comfortable. The glebe and garden contain about four and a-half Scotch acres of good ground. The stipend consists of 58 bolls, 3 firlots, 3 lippies of oatmeal ; 58 bolls, 3 firlots, 3 lippies of bar- ley ; and L.146, lis. of money. In the Report of the Religious Instruction Commissioners, it is valued at L.256, lis. 8d., from an average of five years previous to 1836. The same report vap lued the unexhausted teind at L.140, lis. Id. Education. — The parish school and school-house, recently re- built, are in good order. The teacher has the maximum salary ; but the fees are small, and sometimes not well paid. The average attendance may be about 50 scholars, who are instructed in read, ing, writing, and arithmetic. On the extreme border of the pa- rish, where it meets those. of Uphall and Livingstone, a school was erected by the late Robert Warden, Esq., to whom the pa- rochial institutions were, in many respects, beholden. Though highly useful in the locality, its attendance has fluctuated much ; and it would be greatly benefited by an endowment. In summer, LIVINGSTONE. 116 It is used as a preaching station in the Sabbath evenings. Every person in the parish, of suitable age, is able to read. It is not ascertained that they can all write. • Poor and Parochial Funds. — At present there are three paupers on the roll ; viz. an aged woman, who receives 5s. a month, an il- legitimate child, and a lunatic confined in a private asylum. The heritors, support the latter by private assessment. A few re« ceive occasional assistance. The ordinary collections amount to about Ij.11, and there is, besides, the sum of L.2, I2s. per annum, the interest of bonded money. Hitherto, there has been no legal assessment ; but, it is feared, that one may at length become n^v cessary, from the demand of aliment for illegitimate children, to which this parish, owing to the shifting habit of its youthful po- pulation, and other unfavourable circumstances, is much exposedt Apnl 184a • » I ' U PARISH OF LIVINGSTONE. PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWBEDDALE« THE REV. JAMES M. ROBERTSON, MINISTER, THE REV. JOHN LAING, Assistant and Successor, I. — Topography and Natural History. Extenty ^c.-^The length of the parish is between 4 and 5 miles from west to east, and it is nearly 1^ mile in breadth at each end, but contracts in the middle to about half a mile. It contains 4463 Scotch acres. It is bounded on the north-west by Bath- gate and Ecclesmachan ; on the east, by Uphall and Mid-Calder ; on the south-east, by Mid-Calder ; south, by West Calder, from which two parishes it is separated by the Ammon and the Brieob waters ; and, on the west, by Whitburn. Topoyraphical Appearances, — The surface of the parish, though much varied, does not rise into any very distinct eminence, except one in the north-east corner, in the lands of Kpightsridge, called l>echmont Law, or Knightsridge Hill. * Though only 686 feet above the level of the sea, it commands a very extensive prospect. The climate, though rather moist, is favourable to health. The Ammon (which rises in the upper parts of Lanarkshire, 1 1 16 IJNLfTHOOWSHIEE. aud after a circuitous and somewbat rapid course in a north BMteiw ly direction, falls into the Frith of Forth at the Yillage of Craiiioad»^ is, in this parish, except for the purposes of mills, a very iongBifi^ cant stream in general, but when flooded, rises so as to be ilinoei magnificent, and increases in breadth to the great injaiy of ki banks. Geology and lilinerahffy.^^The Briech water has in it9 eourM gradually made several deep sections of the circumjacent stmta* These are of the coal formation, such as clays, shto-days, flee. In the bed of the river quantities of boulders appear. The moai striking natural feature of the parish is the eminence commonlj called Dechmont Law, which, with the surrounding ridges^ of which it is the apex, are of the trap-rock formation. The graeii* stone of the summit is succeeded by compact basalt lower down, and at the foot of the eastern side, fine blue shale appears. Cool and limestone abound at its eastern side, and thus, from its dooo connection with strata of the coal formation, it bears a striking aoo- logy to the larger trap formation of Arthur's Seat, &c. A lake-stpne rock, in the western part of the parish, is supposed to be fifty feet thick, dips one in every three feet to the north* west, and rises to the south-east. The lime, coal, and sandstono near it dip with equal rapidity, and in the same direction as tho lake-stone. Sandstone iit to be found in various directions, and from twelve to twenty feet thick. Lime, coal, and wfainstone abound over almost all the parish^ but hitherto they have not been very successfully worked. Botany. — Dechmont Law is in summer beautifully adorned with the yellow mountain-violet {Viola lutein) and white saxifrage {Saxt^ fraga granulata.) In a wood west from Liringstone village, tho elegant lesser winter-green {Pyrola tniiior) occurs. On the banks of a small stream half a mile above it, the great leopard's bane (Hv* ranicum Pardalianches) is met with ; and in the woods to the north, Habenaria bifolia^ UsUra ovata^ and Hypericum hbrmdum are frequently seen. II. — Civil History. Eminent Men. — Patrick Murray, Baron of Livingstone, well de- serves to have his memory recorded* Living about the middle of the seventeenth century^^his young nobleman, in possession of an' Ample fortune, turned his attention to the study of naUird history, and, not oonteoted with forming at his own country-seat a botanic garden consisting of one thousand species of plants, a great col* LIVINGSTONE. 117 lection in those infant days of the science, he traversed foreign countries with a view to increase it. Having gone over the whole of France, he was, on his way to Italy, cut off by a fever, much to the prejudice of natural history in Scotland, and deeply regretted by those friends who could estimate the worth of charac- ter displayed by a youth, who, in the uncontrolled possession of an abundant fortune, could steadily devote himself to a praiseworthy pursuit. Patrick Murray had been the friend and pupil of Sir Andrew Balfour, who, after his death, had his plants transported to Edin- burgh, where, joining them to his own. Sir Andrew laid the foun- dation of the 6rst botanic garden in that city. Land-owners. — These are, the Earl of Rosebery; John Pit- cairn, Esq., Nether Dechmont ; William Wilson, Esq., Dech- mont ; Alexander Gray, Esq., Knightsridge ; Misses Burd, Sea- &eld ; William Erskine, Esq., Blackburn House ; Robert For- syth, Esq., Redhouse ; Thomas Balfour, Esq., MurrayGeld; Heirs of William Baird, Westwood ; Heirs of the Rev. Mr Kennedy, Briech* Parochial Registen. — Parochial registers were begun in 1696, and have been regularly kept since, but, owing to the smallness of the parish, are not voluminous. Antiquities^ — The house, or, as it was anciently called, the peel of Livingstone, was a fortiGed castle surrounded by a wet ditch about thirty feet wide, having a rampart of earth within ; more than three-fourths of this ditch and rampart remained entire till nearly the middle of last century. The more modern house of Living- stone was pulled down by the present proprietor, the Earl of Rose- bery, soon after his purchasing the principal part of the barony. About half a mile north-east of its site is the farm-house of New- Year Field : here, within these sixty years, stood the remains of a square tower, said to have been ahunting-seat of the Kings of Scotland, and frequented by them while Linlithgow was their stated residence, not only for amusement, but for the benevolent exercise of their prerogative of touching for the scrofula, for which disease the water of a spring-well adjoining was considered a spc- dfic, when applied by a royal hand upon the morning of New Yearns Day before sunrise. As no cures are recorded, may not we conjecture that the real beneGt was inducing both monarch and subjects to practise early rising and morning ablutions, though a&- 116 LIHLITHG0W8HIRB. suredly the substitutiDgmidsumtiier for the New* Year WMlAi to be an innprovemeDt on the plao. A field, called Maukes Hill, which, being intersected by dl» Ammon, is partly in that and partly in Mid-Calderparitbykco** sideredas a battle-6eld of long past years, but, as the tumuli oqb* taining stone-coflBns, skeletons, and all that gi? es Yerisimilitoda to the conjecture, have mostly been found in the part belongii^ to Mid- Calder, the elucidation of this somewhat obscure matter hb^ longs more properly to the account of that parish. IIL — Population. The former Statistical Account gives the population in 1 765 to be 598. The state of the population afterwards is as follows ; 1801, 551 1811, 879 1881, 10S5 1841, 1004 IV. — Industry. jtffricuUure.'^The whole of the parish is cultivated or in ptt^ * ture, except about 500 acres. There are not 200 acres of which may yet be drained and planted. From 250 to 300 are underwood, viz. spruce, larch, and Scotch fir, with a few bard* wood trees intermixed. Great attention is paid to the managiaN* ment of the plantations, particularly upon Lord Rosebery^s estateSf. where likewise they are most extensive, and where the yearly thin* nings are found very profitable. Ment. — The rent of land is believed to be about L.I, 4s. per acre. The Ayrshire and Teeswater milch cows are commonly kept^ often crossed with other breeds. The general character of the husbandry is a regular rotation of white and green crops, and then the land is laid down for pasture. Nineteen years is the duim- tion of the common lease. Quarries and Mines. — There are lime; whinstone, and saikU stone quarries. The lake-stone quarry, on the property of James Scales, Esq. in the vicinity of Blackburn village, which has been wrought for many years, is much famed for supplying excellent floors for ovens. It has hitherto given employment to six men in hewing and quarrying, and is sent to all parts of the country for nearly thirty miles round. Quarry now given up for encroacbiQg on the public road. The limestone on the same property b six feet thick, and lies upon a bed of slaty sandstone, called by the workmen «< blaes," four feet thick above the coal, which is like* LIVINGSTONE. 119 wise fbnr feet in thickness ; but the working of the coal and lime- stone have been given up for a number of years, the dip being so great as to make it unproductive. Manufactures, — There is a cotton spinning-mill at Blackburn, which employs about 120 men, women, and children above ten years of age. v.— Parochial Economy. There is no market-town in the parish. The nearest is Mid- Calder, at the distance of two miles. There are two villages, Li- vingstone in the east, and Blackburn in the west of the parish. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated on the border of Mid-Calder, about half a-mile from the eastern extremity of Li- vingstone parish. It is very inconveniently situate for at least three-fourths of the population. The church was rebuilt in 1732, and is in very tolerable repair. It affords accommodation for about 300 people. The only free sittings are at the communion-table, which remains standing along the length of the church. The manse was built in 1803, at the accession of the present incumbent, and, being substantially built, has since received only trifling repairs. The glebe consists of six acres of land, valued at L.3 per acre. The amount of stipend, as allocated by the Teind Court, is 10 bolls bear, and 23 bolls meal, and L. 188, 5s. l^d. ; but, owing to some part of the teind being claimed by Whitburn, formerly a part of this parish, the stipend is not fully paid. There is a Dissenting chapel in the village of Blackburn, be- longing to the Independent persuasion. The minister is paid from the seat-rents and collections at the door. It is but thinly attend- ed, and is believed to have only 1 1 joined members. Three hundred and fourteen males, and 322 females, are con- sidered as belonging to the Established Church. The number r^ularly attending is too fluctuating to be exactly ascertained. One hundred and eighty-nine males, and 160 females, belong to the United Secession ; 4 males, and 5 females, to the Church of England ; 9 males, and l2 females, to the Church of Rome. 160 is the average number of communicants in the parish church. JS^uca/ton.— Number of schools, 2 ; 1 parochial and 1 unendow- ed. The parochial teacher has the maximum salary, with the legal accommodations of dwelling-house, school-house, and garden. Ji Sabbath school and parish library was set on foot in the vil- lage of Livingstone four years ago. It consists of nearly 300 well selected volumes, and is supported by subscription, and much jprized by the population. 120 LINL1THGOW8HIBB. Friendly Sodehf. — A Friendly Society wm establislMd in buru in the year 1799, which has been of much beaefil to itp. members, whose numbers are 80 at present, and their stodLa a oyp te to L. 125 Sterling. Poor and Paroehial Jaaid!f^— There are 27 persons tm tht loU of poor. The aTerage weekly allowance u Is. 6d. Inns. — There are five public-houses in the parish, and three' small shops in which spirits are retailed. ' Fuel — The fuel in general use b from Beobar coal-worfc, aboat four miles from the western extremity of the parish. The eoal is of first*rate quality, and costs 6s. 6d. per ton on the kilL April 1843. PARISH OF BORROWSTOWNNESS. PRESBYTERY OF UNLITHGkOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN &TWEKDB4LI. THE REV. KENNETH MACKENZIE, MINISTER. I. — ToFOORAPHT AND NaTDRAL HiSTORT. BoHRowsTowNNBSS has become the prevailing name of the unit* ed parishes of Kinneiland Borrowstownness, although KinueU'waa the original parish, and the other existed as a separate parishf only twenty years. Ncane and Situation. — The town of Borrowstownness, coounoiilj pronounced and writteo Bo^ness, owes its name to its locality, be- ing situated on a point of land, or r^m, projecting into the l^tk of Forth, and about three-quarters of a mile north from the villag!» of Borrowstown, formerly BurwardstouD. Extent^ Boundaries^ ^c — The parish is of a triangular form^ extending about four miles from east to west, the medium breadth from north to south being about two miles. The superfidal ex- tent is about 4| square miles. It is bounded on the north by the Frith of Forth ; on the east by the parbh of Carriden ; on the south and west by the parish of Linlithgow, and by the river Avod^ which separates it from the parishes of Muiravonside and PolmoDt» Topographical Appearances. — The surface of the parish is un- even, excepting the Carse of KinneiL The highest part is in the south-east angle, which rises to an elevation of about 520 feet above the Frith. From this eminence, called Irongath Hil]» or BORROW8TOWNNES6* 121 Glour o'er 'em. ibe surface slopes gradually to the banks of the Avon, on the south and west On the north the slope terminates abruptly in a steep bank, which extends the whole length of the parish, Tarying in elevation and in its distance from the shore, and is beautifully wooded from Kinneil House to the Avon. From the top of Glour o'er ^em, the admirer of nature may enjoy one of the finest views in Scotland. Meteoroloffy.'^The climate, though variable, is remarkably sa- lubrious. Hydrography. — The Frith of Forth is about two miles and a^ half broad between Bo'ness and Culross, and about three miles broad between the mouth of the Avon and Culross. In the middle of the channel between these places, the depth is from five to nine fathoms. Between Bo'ness and Preston Island, the depth is about four fathoms and a-half, and gradually increases to seventeen and upwards towards Queensferry. Above Bo'ness the depth of mid- channel diminishes to three fathoms towards Grangemouth. Pres- ton Island lies near the north shore ; and the south side of the channel being free from rocks, the navigation is safe, and the an- chorage is good ofi* the Port of Bo'ness. Between Bo'ness and Grangemouth the Frith is shallow, and, at ebb-tide, the water re- cedes to a considerable distance from the shore, leaving a great extent of muddy surface, through which the stream of the Avon passes in a channel which is variable. There is a rise of not less than 25 feet of water in the middle of the Frith at high spring tides. At Bo'ness it is full and changes about three o'clock ; and it is high water nearly eight minutes later than at Leith. The influence of the river Avon, and other tributaries, on the waterof the Frith, is perceptible in the production of salt, as might be expected from the diminution of specific gravity. Specific gravity of sur&ce water, taken from the middle of the Frith, off Bo'ness, after a long continuation of rain : High water, specific gravity, 1.0206, at 574" Fahrenheit. Low water, specific gravity, 1.0190, at 57" Fahrenheit. Si>ecific gravity of surface water after a long duration of fair weather: High water, specific gravity, 1.02929, at 564** Fahrenheit. Low water, specific gravity, 1.02234, at 564 "* Fahrenheit. The river Avon, which forms the western boundary of the pa- rish, and has its sources in the high parts of the parishes of Fal- kirk and Slamannan, is a considerable stream, having a copious supply of water, and a considerable fall between Linlithgow Bridge and its discharge into the Frith. Several milU Vvw^X^^'e^ ^\%.Oc^^ 1 123 LINLITHG0W8HIRB. - on its banks, but three only are in operation at preaent in tht pft» fish, and belong to the Duke of Hamilton. Two of grain-mills ; the third was erected for grinding malt for the in Bo'ness, but is employed at present for grinding flint fiir tin pottery. The Dean or Den Bum, and the Oil Bum, two strMnlala running in ravines near Kinneil House, add to the beauty of tha scenery, but are too small for any mechanical adnmtage. The number of coal-pits sunk in the neighbourhood has raft* dered the supply of water in the town scanty ; but there art a»> yeral good springs in the landward part of the parish. One of these, at a small distance from the town, affords a copious supplj of excellent water, part of which is conveyed to the town in pipaSi* Geology and Mineralogy* — The strata in this parish are all of the coal formation. They lie with considerable regularity, and in general dip to the west, at the rate of from one in six, to ene in ten. There is no appearance of trap dikes passing through the seams of coal, except at the south-east comer of the parish, where Irongath Hill, or Glour o'er 'em, appears protmded through them* There is a great quantity of apparently trap rock lying in beds in the strata ; and though there is a considerable number of dikes or slips in the strata, almost all mnning nearly east and west, these slips seldom alter the quality of the coaL A general section of the strata at the Snab, a site lately spoken of as the best for a new winning of the coal-Geld (the pre- sent being considerably exhausted), may be stated as follows i-^ ThickneM TbickncM Thicknasi Tbiekntn 4 if seams of earth j of seams of earthy ( Df coal. strata. ofooaL •traca« From surface. Peet. Fatb. From suriSwe. Feei. Fath. Sandstone and shale, Section brought ibrward,304 J87 aay 15 Coal, (red,) 3 Coalt local name Shale, sandstone^ and (Monthunger,) Sk ironstone, 16 Sandstone and diale, Coal, kwal name (fool,) 54 . about 36 Sandstone and shales J2 Coal, (splinty ) 3 Coal, (Easter Main,) 5 Sandstone and shale, 11 Shale and sandstone^ 12 Coal, (Corbyhal!,) 5 Coal, (smithy,) . 24 Sandstone and shale, 8 Shale, ... 2 Coal« (seren-fbot,) 6 Coal,— (Caursay,) 2 Sandstone and shale, 11 Coal,localDame(Utt1e,)2 484 179 Sandstone and shale. 8 Add thickness of coals Coal, ( Wester Main,) 11 tostoney strata, Bi% Shale and sandstone, 49 187JW 304 187 . • * The mineral water mentioned by Sir Robert Sibbald is at present scarctly no- ticed, although it has given the name tVelt d* Spa to a locality near the west «id of Bo*ni BORRO WSTOWNNRSS. 1 23 No coal has ever been found in this district under the Caursay coal ; and as t^ese lowest correspond closely with the lowest seams in the Fife strata, it may be safely inferred, that there are no workable seams below this one. It is remarkable, however, that the limestone, which, on the Fife side, makes its appearance about 85 fathoms under the lowest seam, does not appear in Carriden, where these lowest seams crop out to the surface. Above the strata mentioned in the section, to the west of the Snab takes on one or two inferior seams of coal, which were par« tially wrought in former times, when the duty was on the salt, for the salt-pans. And further to the westward (at Craiginbuck,) takes on a seam of limestome, which at one time was wrought, af- fording an excellent building mortar. This seam appears to be the same as that on the opposite side of the Forth, at Blair House, which was wrought three years ago. Some fine specimens of petrifaction have been found in a bed of sandstone, on the east bank of the Avon, near Inneravon. A remarkable bed of shells has long been known to exist in the bank near Inneravon. By recent excavations in various parts of the bank, between Inneravon and Kinneil House, the bed of shells appears to be continuous between these two places. It consists chiefly of oyster shells. A species of muscle shell is seen in some places ; and in one place, part of the mass is petrified. Large trees have been found deeply imbedded in the mud in the Carse ; and horns and bones of deer and other animals have been found, about twelve feet below the surface, in the excava- tions for the bridge lately built across the Avon. Botany, — Bo'ness parish, although of limited extent, exhibits rather a numerous Flora, including a large proportion of the whole plants of Linlithgowshire, some of which appear to be confined within its limits. On taking a general view of the botany of the county, there is not perhaps much, excluding the Cryptogamia, which has not been found in the rich neighbouring district of Edinburgh ; while many of the more interesting plants of the coast disappear westward, and those of the higher range of the Pentlands are not met with on the less elevated hills of Linlithgowshire. Partaking, however, of the same advantage of situation upon the Frith of Forth (an arm of the sea, it may be observed, which, besides being remark* able for (he many rare plants found on its shores, would seem, by its influence upon the climate and scenery, to enrich the 124 rmLITHGOWSHIBE* * botany of the whole valley of Forth ;) poiaesshig alia tht portant requisite of every variety of soil, thb oouoty is &r being deficient in a botanical point of view. If the directed to that part of it which compcehends the parish of UtTnnMH although promising in its general features, it would scarody bt a«» pected, on a more particular inspection, to be the best loealitj te plants. The maritime species, which, as said before^ gradually dft» minish in numbers as the shore of the Frith is traced upwafd% vill be seen, on reaching this, to have almost entirely disappenwdt owing to the great accumulation of mud,, and perhaps, also^ the diminished saltness of the water. Besides thn, there is do giound sufficiently elevated for producing the plants of high situations. The Flora of the parish is thus so fiir wanting in variety. Thwi are, however, certain favourable circumstances which account for the large number of plants, on the whole^ to be met witlu Tim scenery is finely diversified with woods and plantations, which shel* ter in abundance their peculiar species. The river Avon, ako^ forming the boundary on the west, appears to have brought down the rarer plants which are found in ascending its higher course. The deep rocky dens at Tod's mill accordingly abound with suchy and Scirpus sylvaticuSf Melica nutanSf Chryiospleniwn tUiermifiMtamf Eupatvrium cannabimun^ TroUivs europmu; and plants by no means commonly met with may there be gathered in abundance, if the romantic beauty of the scene^ as the river winds amidst its steep and wooded banks, may allow the eye to rest upon the humbler vegetation around. The flowering fern, Osmunda regalu^ is also seen in this spot, but does not extend higher up ; although frequent enough on the west coast, it appears in Scotland to shun the sharper breezes of the east; and the station just mentioned is probably the nearest to Edinbuigh. Toiiula rigiday a small spo* cies of moss, which is chiefly confined to the south of Englandf also grows abundantly by the river side at Inneravon. The pre- sence of these two plants, especially the fern, seems to indicate a certain approach to a western climate, or is owing to the highly sheltered situation. The flowering fern becomes more frequdit in Stirlingshire. Among the few maritime plants within the bounds may be mentioned Seirpus mariHmm^ and Aster tripoliumj which are seen in the summer months plentifully covering the brackish marshes below Kinneil. The aster is not a rare plant, and is ineDtioned chiefly because it was found in the same place by Sibbald neariy BORROWSTOWNNESS* 125 one hundred and eighty years ago; and what is more deserviiig of no- tice, as connected with the gradual changes which take place in es- tuaries, he also observed growing on the shore, ThaHctrum mmus^ and Arundo arenaria^ a strictly maritime plant, and so well known to bind the loose sand of the sea shore ; neither of which are now to be seen ; a circumstance of some importance, as it confirms the supposition derived from other observations, that there has been a ^reat increase of the sleeches since Sibbald's time, and in some «pots even a change from a comparatively sandy to a muddy beach. On searching the shore eastward, the same plants do not begin to appear for several miles, until the shore changes its character. The natural copse wood of Kinneil, the only one in the county, affords, as might be expected, some rather peculiar plants, among which may be reckoned Betonica officinalis^ very rare in this part •of Scotland, and Habenaria albida^ for which it is a singular sta- tion, that being a plant of hilly pastures. It is chiefly in this wood that the additions to the Scottish Cryptogamia were found, and which will be afterwards specified. Geranium phcBum^ Listera Ni* Jus^Avis^ Arum maadatum^ are a few of the rarer flowering plants to be met with in the woods. In regard to the comparative pre- valence of natural orders, the Graminise are the most numerous in species, the Orchidiae somewhat deficient. The common reed £lls the ditches and wet places of the carse lands. Poa aquatica^ and Festuca elatior^ grasses of highly nutritive properties, are abundant by the side of the Avon. Of the Cryptogamia, the Musci are not uninteresting. Ht/p* nwn murale and Tortula revoluta are frequent in old stone walls about ItinneiL Tetraphis Browniana and Jungermannia furcata occur in fruit ; the latter very rare in the Dean plantation. Z>t- •cranum Jlexuosum covers the entire bank at Tod's Mill in abun- dant fructification. Hypnum piliferum is common, but not in fruit, although it may be obtained in that state about Hopetoun woods, in the parish of Abercom. Of the Lichenes and Algae, there is nothing particular to be «aid. The marine are very scarce, from the nature of the beach. The Fungi now remain to be noticed, which, as they have not been so extensively investigated in Scotland, as other plants, may, on that account, be expected to afibrd greater novelties. The agarics are particularly numerous. In this parish two localities for these may be distinguished as abounding in kinds of genc^rally different forms and qualities. In the rich old pastures of Kitmeil m 126 LINL1THG0W8HIBB. those of fragile and delicate appearance ofteo dtasolYiiig in deenf may be looked for, while tba surrouodiDg woods and plantatkwii Imv» hour the larger species, which are usually acrid or tufted. Among tlMT latter, Affaricus Piperaius^ VoUmwoi^ FlexuasuMj VeUereuM^ although not generally common^ are abundant under Kinn Of the former A. Soioerbeif a curious species, may be mentioiwd as growing on the bank by the shore. The following list of IVugi of different genera, gathered in the woods immediately around KiiH neil, are allowed to be additions to the Scottish flora ; the first nine are likewise quite new to Britain. The names are chiefly Uioea of Fries and Berkeley. Several species, apparently undescribed, were met with ; buty as they have not yet been suflBciendy examined, it is not judged proper to publish them in this place. Although Fungi are obscure plants^ and little regarded, the subjoined list may be useful as a guide to those who attend to such things in other parts of the country, be-' sides appearing necessary to complete this botanical view. Agaricot aaccbarinus AgBriem grammopodiut Agarieiia eollinitut «... algidus .,i..,,i , butyraoeus >^...,.,— .., plumoaui Arcyria ftuca .^.>.„., .^ camptopbyllui >^...,.,— .., erinaceus Stemonitis typhoides ,.. gljekwmus ...., meditia Didymium costatum ,>., capillaria m Iria .....I..*.......*, claTus , „.... deplueni Canthardhii dnuoaoa Didcrma lepidota »■>—»■■»«»■■■ raoemosua wm»»mfmmm»f^»M*,»0m SHilia Cribraria fulva ,. ..... ■ ptcrigenus Memlioi pallant 0»0mM0»—»m»0m at^llacea «—!.«——»»— itriocllua nydnaos oehraeauin Agaricus albo-brunniui ..,»■.. n.,.., thodopoliua , iidmn ...........^ IuItus m ii.i.i.. ■ ■ retieulatui PwUlburia quiaquiliaria m ■■■ oolumbetta Sowerbci Didymium cinereum v *»m m » — 0» m fbetms i..i-i»»».i. Yanus »»■>««»»■..»»«■.■" nrinacaum ««»M...«^ ftimotus M..........^ taneulneua Doratomyces neesii cotdft ...I bleDDina ,. ..... ■ radiootua Diochia elegana* As the various species of fungi are more generally distributed ia temperate regions, to which they are chiefly confined, than plantf of higher rank, owing, perha|)s, to their greater simplicity of struo* ture, it is very probable that all of the above might be found throughout Britain wherever those circumstances chiefly required for the production of the order, shade, and moisture exist The fungi of the continent, indeed, are in a great many cases iden- tical with those of this country. To this law of comparatively ge* neral distribution, there are, however, exceptions, and some of the species appear to be very local, their diffusion depending upon causes which are not understood. There is also a peculiarity con- ' * Mr James C. Baucbop, wbo communicated tbb article on botany, rabmlttwl ipoeimcoa of nearly all tlie Fmgi to the R«t. Mr Berkeley, tlie beet autliority on the tuljcct in tbit country, vho eoafirmcd or detcrmiiied the namei of tbe ipceiM.- 4 BORROWSTOWNNBSS. 127 nected with the stations of fungi : while some species are equally constant to these as the higher tribes of plants, there are others very uncertain in this respect, disappearing for a succession of sea- sons together, seemingly without any i^elation to the more obvious induence of moist weather. The causes of this would appear .to be obscure as the plants themselves, but the fact probably points to a Geld of investigation in some measure peculiar to them, al- though, in regard to the more general views of botanical geogra- phy, they may have less claim upon the attention. The following is a general list of a few more of the rarer plants : Hippurb vulgaris Orthotricum diaphioum Agaricus mutabilis' Veronica montana Hookeria lucens _ titubans Viburnum opiilus Hypnutn oomplanatum Taginatus Fedia olitoria Grimmia tricopbylla ■ fuliginosus Aira crlstata Hypnum alopecurum - flaccidus Milium effusum Brium legulatum ■ - parasiticus Festuea bromoides rostratum - oocbleatus Sagina maritima Jungerroannia crenulata Cantharrttua eornneopioidea Adoxa moschatellina — — — pofyganthos ■ lutescens Origanum vulgaie Marcbantia conica Radulum orbicura ITIaiaiiiiiiiii umbellatum Calocera viscosa Gkrex curta Fungi. Helvalla dostica Agariciis ceraceus Leotia lubrica Muse If &c. in fruit. - confluens Pezeza macropus Gymnostomuni Heimii »— clayus Physarum sinuosum Didymodon trifarum ■ scaber Geoglossum cucullatum heteromallum Ornithology. — The only bird at all rare is the fauvette {Sylvia hortensis.) It seems to be as common some seasons about Kin- neil as the black-cap, and is probably generally so throughout Scotland, although overlooked from its similarity to others. II. — Civil History. Parochial Records. — The parochial records consist of, Istj five volumes of minutes of session, regularly kept from 1694, and af- fording interesting information regarding the state of morality and religion in the parish in former times; 2^, six volumes of registers of births, baptisms, proclamations, and marriages ; the oldest vo- lumes are imperfect ; the earliest entry is dated 1648 ; de/, two volumes recording deaths, the first from 1736 to 1783, the se- cond from 1808 to the present time ; 4thj several volumes relating to the management of the poor's funds. AuHquities. — The Wall of Antoninus, commonly called Gra- ham's Dyke, traversed this parish. This celebrated rampart, in its course between the Friths of Forth and Clyde, crossed the river Avon, the western boundary of the parish, near Inneravon, and proceeded in an easterly direction towards Carrideu or Aber- eoni ; and its tract is still visible at various places along the high 128 UNLITHGOWSHIBBtf grounds of the parish. Traces of the mQitary road on the side of the rampart have been leeendy disoovered near bmamM^ and also in two diferent fields east from Kmneil House. It k ge- nerally supposed that a stsftion existed at Inneravon, and pMhi> bly there was another at KinneiL The wall was eonstmeledt ttoi by one, but by several indifidiials, at different periods ; and fSbmg seem to have terminated the work at different places.* Heliee has arisen some diversity of opinion regarding the site of the p l a e e f whose name Bede and Nennius have so particolarly recorded, and near to which, according to them, was the eastern termination of the rampart The notices of ancient historians, and the reseaitfaei of modem times, point to one or the other of two localities»f vis* to Kinneil in this parish, and to Weltouo in the parish of Cam- den, as the place referred to by Bede and Nennius. Peiiiaps the name or names mentioned by these authors refer to both]: plaoes, and not to one of them exclusively. Cenail,§ (which Nenniut mentions as Scottish, t. e. Celtic, indicating an earlier periodf) may refer to Kinneil, || where the earliest termination of the wall is generally supposed to have been ; and Penguaul, Penfabel, and * The situation of Kinneil, oommanding so eztendTe a Tieir of the Frith of Fotlh« was most suitable for a watch-toirer, and especially for one terminating the Hnt of forts erected between Forth and Clyde by AgriodU. The wall after wat da uu ii H is H ed by LoUius Urbicus might advantageously hare terminated at this wateb-tovw | and the situation being one of importance, and probably much frequented, a ▼O^ps might spring up in its Tictnity at an early period. And though aftcrwarda, on ob lerent occasions, additional forta or towers were erected, and the wall was repairod* and extended fiuther east, yet the Tillage in the vicinity of the original termioatioo of the rampart would retain iu name, even though another station might be ereelad omt the more recent termination, and a name of similar import given to it. A vSkico near the eastern termination of the wall of Severoa was eaUed Wallseod. f The termination of the wall, according to Glides, was near Carriden, about Cvo miles west from Abercom ;— aeoording to Bede» about two miles west from Abor- com, at a place called Penfidiel or Penieltun ;— aoeordiDg to Netmioa, at a ploit oil* led Penguaul, or Peneltun, or Cenail ;— and, according to Fordun, near Carridoo* It was the opinion of Sibbald, one of the earliest antiquarians who considered thhoob- ject, that Penvahel or Peneltun of Bode was the very same as Walltown or WollMM nesr Carriden. Yet more recent and abler antiquarians have considered Oeoail, Pin* vsheU and Peneltun of the more aoeient aotbors the same as KinneiL X Regarding Nennius, Ritson remarks, ^^ He had already confounded the watt of the real Severus with that of Antoninus, and now confounds another Sevems wltb oooMbody else." Perhaps in thia instance he has confoonded two names whieh» tboogli of nmilar import, refer to two diffisrent localities. S Cenail is evidenly Celtic, and may be derived Ihmi Cacm, ** head** or '^ond,*' and /d, <« sod,** ^' tur^'* '* wall," or «» icDco".-^e possessivo case of which is fkA, Iwvins fh perfectly quiescent. Cenail may thus signiijr ** end of the turf wall*' or '• walU ood." Pencuaul or Penvahel is Cambro-Brttish, Mgnliying *• waU-bead" or ^ waU* end ;" and rendtun has the same aignlfioatioo, with the additioa of tiie Suoo tM* onnation ** tun ** U Cenail, mentioned only by Nennius, (who does not specify distanoo nor mentloO' Carriden or Abercom,) correqxmds with Kinneil, at least in pronunoiatioo : wWlstb In respect of both pronunciation and distance, Penvahd and Peodtun of Bcdo cor^ g tsp uud better with Weltocn hi Curidon than with Kinnta BORROWSTOWNNEJSS. 129 Peneltun, (Cambro- British, and Saxon, indicating a later period,) may refer to Weltoun,* which is farther east than Kitineil, and which, probably, is not far Jb'om the place to which the wall was finally extended. Near the farm-steading of Upper Kinneil, and a little south of the Roman wall, there was a small tumulus or cairn, locally known by the name of the Laughing Hill. On its being opened to ob- tain stones for drains, four stone-coffins and four urns were found. The coffins contained black mould ; and the urns, which were full of human bones, were inverted aqd placed upon flat stones. Probably the bodies were burned, and, after the calcined bones were collected and put into the urns, the remaining ashes were put into the coffins. The bones, when first discovered, were al- most white ; but, when exposed to the air, they very soon became black, and crumbled to dust. Several pieces of charcoal were found amongst them. A stone coffin and an urn, similar to those already mentioned, were foundi in the north side of an eminence called Bell's Know, immediately above the town of Bo'ness. A curious battle axe, coins, and other antiquities, have been found in different parts of the parish. One of the coins last found is a large silver piece of James VI. Near Inneravon, there is an old tower, with traces of consider- able ruins connected with it. Sibbald calls it a Roman watch* tower; but it has not the aspect of a Roman tower. In the Auchinleck Chronicle of James II., it is mentioned, that, in the beginning of March 1455, ^* James II. kest down the Castell of Inveravyne, and sine incontinent passed till Glasgow," on an ex- pedition against Douglasdale, &c. The old ruin at Inveravon is most probably one of the corner towers of the Castle of Innera- von, built on the site of the Roman station. Below Kinneil House, upon the coast, there was formerly a cas- * It is not surprising that Penguaul, Pen/ahel, and Pcneltun should ultimately be- come Weltun or Weltoun, through the prevailing influence of the Saxon language. Th« omission of the initial syllable is not without example. Edinburgh was, and ttill is, Dun-Eiden in Celtic ; Incuningham is now Cunningham ; Linlithgow is oe- casionally written Lithgow, even in important documents. The interchange of gn^ m, and/in pronunciation, may be traced, even to this day, in different parts of Scot- land. Weltoan seems to have been a locality of some notoriety nearly 200 years be- fore Sibbald wrote his Account of Linlithgowshire. Alexander Hamilton in le Uraoge, had a charter, under the great »cal, of the lands of Weltoun in Linlithgow- «hir», of date 8th February 1524. Two important requisites of a Roman station ex- 1st ut Weltoun, vit. an eminence, and a good supply of water. Thcae might have rendered it an eligible site for a station, although the wall, probably, did not tcriiii- natc at that place, but in itn vicinity, and nearer to the FHth. LINLITHGOW. ^ 130 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. tic, named Castle Lyon. It was built by a lady of the house of Glamis, and was probably the jointure house of Lady Bfargaret Lyon, daughter of Lord Glamis, and widow of John, first Mar« quis of Hamilton. A path leading from the high ground towards the shore, still called the Castle Loan, and some remains of a wdl, called the Castle garden wall, indicate that the site of Castle Lyon was near the Snab. Kinneil House. — Kinneil House, one of the family seats of the Duke of Hamilton, is the most remarkable building in the parish. The barony of Kinneil is one of the most ancient possessions of the house of Hamilton, and is associated with some interesting events in the history of that noble family. According to " Ffrier Mark Hamiltonis Historie," King Ro- bert the Bruce gave all the lands of Kinneil to Sir Gilbert Ha- milton, ^^ for his trew service and greit manheid,'' and especially for having slain '^ the greit Lieutennant of Yngland upon Kyn- nale Muir."* From the same authority we learn, that this Sir Gilbert had been with The Bruce in the field of BannockbuFDi and was one of the seven knights that kept the King's person. For Sir Gilbert's exploit upon Kynnale Muir, ** King Robert gaif till him his armis till weir in Scotland, thre sinkfuilzies in anc bludy feild." The descendants of Sir Gilbert have held the lands and barony of Kinneil by various charters from the kings of Scotland. One of the earliest is dated July 28th 13*23, granted by Robert L, in favour of Walter, the son of Gil- bert. A charter of the lands and barony of Kinneil was granted to James, the first Lord Hamilton, who, in 1474, married the Countess of Arran, which event connected the house of Hamilton with the royal family of Scotland. When the Duke of Charterherault was Regent, he made lai^ repairs \ipon Kinneil House. Considerable alterations were made upon it by Duchess Anne and Duke William, who, according to Sibbald, greatly embellished it. Probably, at this period, the old castle or keep was modernized in the front, but not in good taste. Tbe battlement was converted into a cornice and balusters ; the * Id a place formerly known as Kinneil Muir, a remarkable stone lay near th« road which used to be a thoroughfare between Linlithgow and Falkirk, or Stirling, It was seven feet long, five feet broad, and three feet thick. lis upper surface had been roughly dressed, a groove had been cut round the border, and a cross in the cen- tre. It had a monumental appearance ; but there is no vestige of tradition regards ing it. Excepting the achievement of Sir Gilbert, there is no remarkable event ffiygiat- ed with the locality. About twenty years ago, the stone, being an obstruction to tbe plough, was blown to pieces and removed. BORROWSTOWNNESS. 131 windows were enlarged, and a staircase was erected at each end. A wing projecting eastward was erected on the north ; and, appa- rently, a corresponding wing was intended to have been placed on the south, so as to form three sides of a square. Kinneil House is built on the edge of a bank, about sixty feet above the level of the sea, and is surrounded with a considerable quantity of natural wood. The approach is from the east, along a beautiful avenue of aged trees. From the roof of the main build- ing, which is flat, and covered with lead, there is an extensive and beautiful prospect. The admirable situation of Kinneil Housei and the natural beauties connected with it, warrant Sibbald's mag- ni¢ description of this *' princely seat." But the hand of time has changed the scene ; the natural beauties of the place remain^ but those of art, which Sibbald so much admired, have been ef- faced, and the internal decorations are gone. The numerous and spacious apartments of Kinneil House are at present uninhabited. Though in former times it was the abode of nobles, and the re- treat of kings, the present generation will regard it rather as the fevourite residence of the philosopher and philanthropist*. Tlie celebrated Dugald Stewart resided here about twenty years ; c^nd from this place he has dated most of those works which are the imperishable monuments of his genius. The removal of Mrs and Miss Stewart, who were the last occupants of Kinneil House, was much regretted by every inhabitant of the parish ; and the active and extensive benevolence of that family will be long and grate- fully remembered. Celebrated Characiere. — Other names besides Professor Stew* art's mav be mentioned, as connected with both Kinneil and the University of Edinburgh. Principal Wishart was the son of the last minister of Kinneil ; and Principal Baird, whose name will ever be associated with the cause of education in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, was a native of this parish. A considerable number of clergymen might be mentioned as connected with this parish by birth or residence. One family has produced four clergymen of the Church of Scotland, all of dis- tinguished excellence, though perhaps the editor of the last edi- tion of Wodrow's Church History is best known to fame. The celebrated James Watt matured some of his improvements on the steam-engine, during his residence at Kinneil House. Ip 1769, Mr Watt, oh the recommendation of Dr Black of Glasgow, entered into an engagement with Dr Roebuck, of Carron Iron- 132 LINL1TH00W8HIRC. works, a man equally emineot for kindness of hearty ability enterprise. Dr Roebuck at this time rented the ooal-worka om Ihii . estate of Kinneil. Under the superintendence of Mr Wal^ ■ small steam-engine was constructed at Kinneil House. TIm Of* Under was made of block tin, and was eighteen iocbei dJ a i— t iin The Grst experiment was made at one of the coal^minei, and lbs action of the engine far surpassed even the sanguine ezpaebHioM of the proprietors. Indeed, so great was Watt's suoces% dni hm procured a patent *^ for saving steam and fuel in fire-engiDei^'* Another place, however, was destined to be the fi^ld of hb proa ■ perous career. The pecuniary diflSculties in which Dr Roebudt became at this time involved, checked the proceedings at KiQnail i and soon afterwards, Mr Watt formed a connection with Mr Boulton, under the celebrated firm, Boulton, Watt, and Go. Soho^ Birmingham. The building at Kinneil in which Watt constructed the inn proved engine still remains. There are several circumstances connected with this parish, and referring to the troublous times before the Revolution, which are worthy of being noticed. Many of them are recorded by Wodiow* Mr William Wishart, the last minister of the parish of Kinneil^ was amongst the earliest victims of the persecution which menced in 1660. In the month of July he officiated at and in September following, he was imprisoned in Edinbuigfai On an application from the presbytery of Linlithgow in 1661, he was freed from confinement; but in 1675 letters of interoommun* ing were issued against him. He continued in prison till 1685^ when a sentence of banishment was pronounced against him ; bar» owing to the death of the King, this •sentence was not carried into effect, and he was liberated under bond to compear when called. He was residing at Leith in 1691. He had three sons who attain^ ed to great distinction, 8ir George Wishart of Clifton Hall, Rear- Admiral Wishart, and Principal Wishart of the Univernty of Edinbuifrh. The admiral, having no children, left his fortunef- amounting to L.1 6,000 or L.20,000, to the Principal. Mr John Wauch was the first minister of the parish of Bonnets. He, too, sufiered in the persecution, having be«n denounced in 1678. He probably retired to Ireland, as did some of the other members of the presbytery of Linlithgow. During Episcopacy, the induction of Mr James Haaulton in BORBOWSTOWNN KSS. 133 1678, and also that of Mr William Thomson in 1685, are noted in the parish record. On November 30th 1687, the brethren of the presbytery of Linlithgow met at Bo'ness, '^ and having called upon the name of God, they did constitute themselves in a presbytery." This was probably the first of the regular meetings of the presbytery after the liberty. And on December 7th they met again at Bo'ness, *^ in order to the settling of Mr Michael Potter to be minister unto the Presbyterian congregation of the Ness." This Mr Potter had been subjected to the most rigorous per- secution. In 1673, he passed his trials before some Presbyterian ministers, and soon after was privately ordained upon a call from a great body of Presbyterians in the parish of St Ninians. At the instigation of the Bishop of Dimblane, a violent persecution was raised against him, which compelled him twice to retire to Holland. He was at last apprehended in his own house in Bo'ness in 1681, and imprisoned in^Edinburgh, and afterwards sent to the Bass. In 1685, his confinement in the Bass was altered into an act of banishment. But circumstances preventing bis going once more to Holland, he remained in secrecy till the liberty in 1687, • when he was seittled in Bo'ness. In 1693, he was called to £c- clesmachan, and afterwards to Dunblane, where he died. His son was minister of Kippen, and afterwards Professor of Divinity in the University of Glasgow. Mr Robert Hamilton, afterwards Sir Robert, (son of Sir Tho- mas Hamilton of Preston and Pingalton), who was very promi- nent and zealous in the cause of the Covenanters, resided at Bo'- ness for some time previous to his death, which took place in 1701. The following names are recorded amongst the worthies who experienced the violence of persecution. Belonging to Kinneil, Mr Robert Hamilton, son of the Chamberlain of Kinneil, regard- ing whom there are still some traditional recollections, was impri- soned and tortured, and Andrew Murdoch was banished. Be- longing to Bo'ness, Archibald Stewart, William Gougar, William Cuthill, and the intrepid and devoted Marion Harvey, were exe- cuted. John Gib, a sailor in Bo'ness, was the leader of that remarkable sect of fanatics who appeared a short time before the Revolution, and assumed the name of '^ Sweet Singers," but were generally called Gibbites. The memory of Mr John Henderson, shipmaster, is held in 1^4 LlllL1THOOW9HIRR« kigh estimation in this place. He was born in I6869 and died & 1758. He was a man of singular humility, beoefoleiie9» and piety, spending much of bit time in divine meditations,** whibb he was in the habit of committing to writing, ** to keep his heart flrooi wandering) and fixt it upon divine and spiritiial sabjeda.^ A small selection from these meditations was published ahser Us death, and forms a composition remarkable for the regularitj of ks structure, and for the simplicity, spirituality, and {enroar of ko devotional sentiments.* 1 1 1. — POPUL ATI ON. Kinneil was a conriderable town long before any popuIatioD had collected at the Nes& In the year 166t, there were 659 *'oon- municable" persons in the parish of Kinneil, the greater part of whom resided in the town of Kinneil. Probably the increaao of trade at the Ness, and other causes, withdrew the population from the town of Kinneil ; so that in 1691, it was almost wholly demo- lished ; a few families only remained. But the great improw- ments in agriculture, since the middle of the eighteenth century, have in some measure restored the population of the barony, al- though the town of Kinneil has wholly disappeared. In 1755, Um popuktion of the ptriih was 2868 1705, town, 2618 ; country, 565 8178 1801, eicluriTe of 214 Msmen, 2700 1811, do. 184 do. . 2768 1821, do. 158 do. 8018 1881, . S809 1841, 2847 The town of Bo*ness, notwithstanding its unpromising eztemal appearance, is remarkable for the healthiness and longevity of tha inhabitants. By a table, constructed with much care fVom tho register of deaths for a period of twenty- five years immediately preceding 1834, it appears that the number of deaths was 1842; that during that time, 167 persons died between 60 and 70 yean of age ; 227, between 70 and 80; 119, between 80 and 90; and ] 1, upwards of 90. * The following notices refer to the commociont in 1745^ Instruetioiit snd rants were lent^on difierent oooaiioni, through the Custom- Home here^ to the Bbm» riff of Linlithgow, the Msgistmtes of South Queentferry, and " the biiillie of tld» town," regarding suspected persons and ships. The Cuttom- House waf robbed by the rebels, who carried off a number of braad- sword blades, cutlasses, Ac. which formed part of a shipment tram Germany, mad* by aa armourer in GUsgow, on a Treasury warrant. A troop of dragoons, brought to protect Kinneil House, accidentally set fln U> some of the seats which remained in the old church of KinneiL KinneQ Hoan had, on former occasions, been exposed to violence. In December 165^ durinc popuUr commotions, it was pilkgea. and in Februsrv followins it was burned; ana .again it was burned, in 1570, by some of the English army who had invaded Seol- huid. BORROWSTOWNNES8. 135 The inhabitants of Bo'ness are in general shrewd, intelligent, and enterprizing ; and, as many of them are early trained to the sea, natives of the parish may be found in the most distant parts of the world. The farmers on the barony of Kinneil are a most respectable and exemplary part of the community. The general character of the colliers has improved much of late years. IV. — Industry. The Duke of Hamilton is proprietor and superior of the whole parish, with the exception of a farm of 169 imperial acres, morti- fied for behoof of the minister. Agriculture, — Excepting the natural wood near Kinneil House, the wooded banks of the Avon, and various strips of planting in« tersecting the parish for ornament or shelter, the whole surface is arable. The average rental may be stated as follows : 4d0 acres of carse land, at L.S, Ss. per acre, L.1S54 10 22d0acresofdry field, at L.1, 166. do. . . 4014 270 acres under plantation at 12s. do. 162 ^ Total 1^.5590 10 The whole valuation of the parish stands in the cess-books of the county at L.3559, 8s. Scots. The carse land is of excellent quality. The dry-field consists of various kinds of soil. The greatest part is thin, lies on a tilly bed, and requires extensive draining, which has been, and still is, carried on to a considerable extent on modern principles, and with beneficial results. The rotation of crops for carse land is that called the six-shift course; Istj oats; 2d, summer-fallow; Qdy wheat; 4^A, beans; 5thj barley ; and, 6M, clover-grass, which is cut for hay. The rotation for dry-field is the same, where the land is stifi*, and on a retentive bottom ; but where the land is free, and not retentive of moisture, a green drilled crop is substituted for summer fallow. In this case, the ground remains in pasture a year or two after the removal of the hay crop. Leases, Sfc. — Although a few are for a shorter period, the leases are usually for nineteen years, by which means the farmer is en- couraged to employ his capital in the improvement of his farm, and bis industry is stimulated. The farms are generally let upon com rents, convertible according to the fiars prices of the county for the crop and year for which the rents are payable. By this mode of adjusting the rents, agricultural distress may be said to be unknown in the parish. 136 LINLITHGOW8U1RB. Coal. — The outcropping of some of the seams of coal la Ab neighbourhood must have attracted notice to tbw mineral at aH early period. About the middle of the fifteenth oentnrjf B epa Pius II. expressed his astonishment at ** black stones* being gttett in alms to the poor of Scotland. Even as early as \9Bif a ehai^ ter was granted in favour of the Abbots of Danfermline^ S^^'i'V the right of digging coals in the neighbourhood of the ooovieiil* The seams of coal in this neighbourhood are, generally speaHiiHi. of good thickness, and excellent quality ; and most of them appear to have been wrought at a very early period, in different plafleSi and frequently to a great extent. When the salt-works (eoasbt ing of sixteen pans, producing about 87,000 bushels annually,) were in full operation, the average quantity of coal raised in twelve months might be about 44,000 tons. For nearly forty years paaty however, no pit has been in operation in this parish, the coals be» ing raised in the neighbouring parish of Carriden. But lately, ow- ing to a serious irruption of water, the works there were interrupted^ when an old pit was re-opened in Be^ness, and was wrought for a short period. At the hill, the great coal was then sold at lOs. per ton, and the chews at 6s. per ton. The great coal was shipped at 9s. per ton, and the dtewi at 7s. per ton. The neighbourhood of the Snab has been proposed as the mosf favourable situation for a new winning of the coal-field. The ea* tablishment of a colliery at this place is expected to be of eonsi* derable advantage to the town. Ironstone was formerly wrought to a considerable extent, but b wrought only in small quantities at present, along with the coaL Quarries. — From the trap rock or whinstone quarries are ob* tained stones for building, and excellent metal for the readSi There are several freestone quarries in the parish, the best of which is at Craigenbuck. The stone which it yields is of exceW lent quality, and is much used for hearths and ovens. The limestone, which is more suitable for mortar than for ma« Bure, is not wrought at present. Fisheries. — The inhabitants of this place turned their atteatioi^ to whale-fishing about sixty years ago. At one time eight whale* ships belonged to Bo^ess. But this branch of industry, though attempted at different periods, has not been prosperous, and only one vessel is employed in it at present. There are two boiling* houses for preparing the whale-oil ; one of which has been repaired lately, and made very complete in its arrangements^ BORROWSTOWNNESS. 1 37 Herrings seldom appear here in great quantities. In 1794-5, there was a very successful fishing, but there has been none here since. The establishment of a salmon-fishery at the mouth of the Avon has been proposed, but not yet carried into effect. Haddock, cod, and skate, are found in the Frith ; but little at- tention is paid to fishing, owing, probably, to the want of bait. Small quantities of trout and flounders are occasionally taken with hand-nets, in the stream of the Avon. Manufactures* — Tambouring was formerly a very profitable em- ployment to a great number of females in this place. This branch bf industry now affords but a small remuneration, although a con- siderable number is still employed in it. The Bo'ness Pottery commenced on a small scale in the year 1784, and has been carried on by various individuals since that time. The present proprietors have greatly enlarged their pre- mises, and extended their works. They manufacture almost every variety of stone and earthen-ware. - The Bo'ness Foundery is generally well employed. The che- mical has lately been much enlarged. At the east end of the town there is an extensive bonded wood- yard, and an open woody ard on the Links. Connected with them, and driven by steam, is a saw-mill, containing both circular and vertical saws, and a very ingenious and efficient planing machine. The same steam-engine moves machinery for preparing bone manure. There is a rope-work on a small scale on the Links. The Bo'ness distillery, at the west end of the town, is an exten- sive establishment ; but the present proprietor is working it on a limited scale, producing only spirit of superior quality. The re- venue paid to Government, including malt duty, is sometimes con- siderably above L. 300 per week. The farmers obtain a largo supply of excellent manure from the distillery, as there is connect- ed with it extensive accommodation for feeding cattle. Besides the grain malted and used at the distillery, a conside* rable quantity is malted elsewhere, and sent out of the parish. At this port there is an extensive grain trade, foreign and Bri- tish. The grain merchants have accommodation for warehousing 15000 quarters. Almost all the granaries have been used a» bonded warehouses. Shipping. — In the course of the 17th century, JBo'ness became 138 LINLlTHGOWgHIEK. the great emporium of oammerce with Holland mi tba Biltie. Probably it profited much by the declantioo of Farliunent in ItTflV that burghs of regality and barony were entitled to the nmelia*- dom of trade as royal burffhs. The strict rq^latiou of the E^ glish customs laws, introdnced at the Union, proTingagnat v^ straint upon the tradd of Scotland, the Scottish merehaoti tonad their atteution to the English colonies, then opened to themi and a great trade in tobacco, and other colonial produce arote, by wUeh the merchants of this place acquired much wealth. Between 17SQ and 1 780, Bo'oess was one of the most thriving towns on thiriMif coast, and ranked as the third port in ScoUand. But unoe the opening of the Forth and Clyde Canal, and especially rinoe tba erection of Grangemouth into a separate port, the commerce of this place has decreased, and at present it is in a Tery languiihing condition. Table of Registered vessels belonging to the Port of Borrowa- townness, (including all the creeks,) and of the amount of duttea received at different periods. Year,. Total. 3" Tr«le. ruhery. t 1 i i i. i t' i 1 eg (2 ^ ^ Si i2 1760, 55 "SMJ 11 lilt 42 1910 1770. 117 65381 a 2000 68^135 4 451 1780, 140 em ■24 2710 116 625fl 1790, I7S 13888 43 4S85 133 paSJiaj 719 111 ^laio, IBOO, 134 6745 2! 2330 Dutin ItcceiTud. Invird. KivirehDiw Outwsr A. CoBilwisc loul t^tlo e«i.y<>«. £ ,. i. £ .. d. £ .. i £ : d. £ .. d. 1805,- 172 UIW 163IS 3 4 1810,' 154 905 30485 17 01 1SI5, 134 7837 983} 6 S 1820, 129 81t)G 1818 11 9| 1625, 9 570! 5316 IS IM 1880, ]-23\ 8916 668 17 352 3 6 S7^ S e 73 l« 5 4846 18 r I83S,t 12J, 845S (420 16 * 2057 13 8 311 I e 3797 11 6 1839, lOr 653 1425 1 S 3>!'0 13 ^ 208 9 5 4924 3 7 * Thariiipauddutlciof leOfiud ISIO Indudt iboM of Gnuigemouth. AttlA period tbB Inward tnda coiuiMsd ebiefljr of timber, dob, iron, flu, blubbar, gnfai, bark, madder ; and the'ontward trade, of grain, iilt, ooali, earthan-wan. llw oo*- ward aod inward trad* ii limtlar at the preaent time. Tbe flax ii Impoitad into tba omki on the north nde, and oonmed to DuntniUiic. t Dutiea on ooaU were radused in 18S4. ^ or tbcae, 14 ibJFa, nuanuiDg 1783 tool, belonged to Bo'n««, and Um KM to tbw fiORROWSTOWNNESS. 139 V. — Parochial Economy. It appears from the recollection of Sir R. Drummond of Meid- hope, referred to by Sir R« Sibbald, that, about the year 1600, there was but (me house where Bo'ness and the other villages east- ward to Carriden now stand. And about the year 1700, accord- ing to Sir R. Sibbald's own observation, *^ from the Palace of Kinneil, for some two miles eastward, are almost continued build- ings upon the coast ; and above it, upon the sloping ground from the hills of Irongatb, there are several seats of the gentry, and several villages well peopled, because of the frequent coal-pits all over the ground." To this period, therefore, we may refer the ori- gin of Bo'ness and the neighbouring villages. And the great and rapid change which took place between 1600 and 1700, may bo ascribed to the extensive trade with the low countries, which sprung up during that interval. The merchandise brought from Holland, Bremen, Hamburgh, Konigsberg, and Dantzic, was land- ed on the south shores of the Frith, and conveyed to Linlithgow, Stirling, Glasgow, and all the west country. Blackness was the only place on the south side of the Frith where ships could lie safely ; but causeways or gravelled roads are said to have been made on the beech, by which carts might be brought alongside of vessels at low water, for the purpose of landing or shipping goods^ The Ness, on which the town now stands, presented a situation favourable for such operations ; and, most probably, the compact piece of causeway, which was discovered about twenty years ago, at the depth of several feet below the sill of the dock-gate, was part of the original landing-place at the Ness. The abundance of coal in the neighbourhood, as well as the local convenience of the Ness, probably attracted shipping to it at an early period ; and the prosperous trade, which commenced in the beginning of the seventeenth century, induced many rich mer- chants, ship-owners, and others, to acquire property,* or to reside here ; so that the town and population rapidly increased. .Tavm. — The town of Bo'ness is situated in the north-east cgr- nerof the parish, close to the harbour, [and nearly on a level with the sea. It is uncertain when it was erected into a burgh of re- creeks of Limekilns and Inverkeithing. In 1794, 25 ships belonged to the town ; whereof 17 were brigantines, 1] of them engaged in the Baltic trade, and 6 under contract to sail regularly once every 14 days, to and from London. • Sir John Hamilton of Grange, and Sir John Hamilton of Beircrofls, had sa- noes of various houses and tenements in Bo'ness, from the Marquis of Hamilton, in leSaO and 1623. ■.'.^g 140 LIIILITHGOWSHIRE. gality ; but it was made a buif[b of bmrony when the Juriidictioa Act was repealed : and il is governed bj a bailie appoinl a d'hy the Duke of Hamilton. Bo'ness is a post-towDi haTiog two mrrivdi and two departures of the mail daily. A weekly market it held Ml Monday. There is an annual fair in July» which is obeervedoov chiefly by the colliers and carters, who then Aoose the oBe»^ bearers of their friendly soetetiesi and ride in procesnoiit gayly decorated with ribbons, feathers, and flags. Harbour. — The harbour is formed by two piers carried out inltr the Frith. The western pier, which was first erected, has ha ex- tremity bent towards the east The eastern pier extends ai bra» the other; so that the harbour is completely protected (torn storms, and is one of the safest and most accessible in the Frith. A double wall, forming a broad road, has been run across the faar* hour, between the two piers, so as to form a basin on the land aid* of the harbour. This basin is allowed to fill with the flowing tide^ and at low water it is emptied by opening four sluices, thnn^ which the water flows with a rapid current, so as to clean and deepen the harbour with very little trouble or expense. A small jetty has been run out from the middle of this wall^ and parallel with the piers, which increases the accommodation of the harbour; &nd at the west end of the wall is a gateway, (the gate or lock has lately been removed,) through which vessels are admitted to a patent slip, which has been laid down at the west side of the ba- sin. The breadth of the harbour, or the length of the basin wall and dock-gate between the two piers, is 240 feet ; the length of the west pier from this wall is 668 feet A part of the east pier, 886 feet long, was built in 1733 ; and an addition, 180 feet long, was made in 1787. The depth of water in the harEniur at spring tides may be from 16 to 18, or even 20 feet The improvements of the harbour have been effected chiefly by an impost on ale and beer, and on anchorage duty le» vied by an Act of Parliament, which has been repeatedly renew* ed. By the last act, (of 1816, for twenty>five years,) an assess- ment of Is. per pound is levied on all buildings within town, along with the old impost of 2d. Scots on the pint of ale or beer, and an anchorage duty of 2^d. on coasters, and 3^d. on foreign vessels. The impost, duty, and assessment of the town and harbour are under the management of fifteen trustees, elected from the mer- chants and shipmasten). BORROWSTOWNNESS. 141 It is a remarkable circumstance, that no shore dues or wharfage on goods are levied at this harbour ; and it is much to be regret- ted, that, during the last lease of the colliery, almost all the coals from the Duke of Hamilton's property were shipped, not at Bo'- ness, but at Bridgeness in Carriden. These circumstances have proved exceedingly disadvantageous to the funds of the town. But it is hoped, when the Act of Parliament, and the lease of the coal- works, shall be renewed, these serious disadvantages will be avoided. Owing to the deficiency of funds, the trustees have not only been prevented from undertaking various desirable improvements in the town and harbour, but have also incurred a heavy debt, as will appear from the following statement : Aopual revenue ; average for ten years. Eipenditure for Bame period. Anchorage duty, and harbour Interest of borronred money, L. 80 12 3 dues, . L.lll 12 10 Repairs of harbour, wages, &c. 161 17 Impost on ale, . Id 17 Assessment collected, 46 17 6 Sale of manure, . 96 10 bhareofsHp, . 7 9 2 L.216 6 6 242 9 3 The debt due by the trustees in the year )823 was L.1769. At one period the debt was above L.2000. At present, however, it is less. The petty customs are the property of the Duke of Hamilton, the superior. Port and Cuatom^Houses. — Before the Union, the magistrates of royal burghs collected the greater customs belonging to the Crown, as well as the petty customs belonging to the burghs, and they accounted for the former ^o the Exchequer ; but at, and probably for some time before, the Union, the greater customs were taken out of the hands of magistrates, and let to tacksmen, or farmers of the revenue, as appears from the minutes of the Commissioners of the Union. The King^s duties were collected at Blackness, for the goods imported in this district. By the treaty of Union, the English customs laws were extended to Scot- land, and custom-houses were then established at the principal ports. The influence of the Hamilton family procured the Cus- tom- House to be established at their own town of Bo'ness, instead of Blackness, and the 6rst ledger of the '^ Port of Borrowstoun Ness" commences on 26th December 1707. The district of this port embraced both sides of the Frith of Forth, from Dumbrissle Point and Cramond Water, upwards to the boundaries of Alloa. 1 42 LINLITHGOW8HIRB. On 1st December 1810, Graogemouth, previoittly a cnMk ^f port, was erected into a separate port. *» The establishment of the port consists, at present, of one oal^ lector, one comptroller, and one tide-waiter at Bo^nesB^ and other individuals at the creeks^ && conneoted with the nient. In 1795, the establisbmeot consisted of tonif-kmr k duals. * Ecclesiastical State. — According to the ^ Tasationet rum," quoted by Sibbald, Kinneil was in the diocese of St Aa« drews, and deanery of Linlithgow, about the year 117d, and waa rated at twenty-&?e merks. It had been given to the eaiKma of Holyrood in the twelfth or thirteenth century, and was confi r maJ to them by the Bishop of St Andrews in 1240. The canons en- joyed the revenues, and the cure was served by a vicar. In 1688^ the parish of Kinneil was in the diocese of Edinbuif[h. f The ruins of the old parish church, and the burying^ground of Kinneil, are still to be seen a little west from Kinneil Hoose. % No records remain ; but the inhabitants of the barony still observe some old customs connected with the ancient parish ; and there are a few relics which they hold in veneration, and preserve with great care. The communion table linen, and part of the com* munion table, and some other articles, are in the possession of Mr William Thomson, farmer. Upper Kinneil. About the year 1634, the inhabitants of Bo'ness, induced by the increasing prosperity and importance of the place, and consid* ering the parish church at Kinneil at an inconvenient distance from the town, built a place of worship for themselves. The minister of the parish, to accommodate the inhabitants of the tpwbi preached in this place of worship, as well as in the parish church of Kinneil, till the year 1649, when a petition was presented to the Parliament of Scotland for a disjunction from Kinneil, and n separate minister. Parliament granted the prayer of the petition^ and, after several visitations, the presbytery of Linlithgow found * Much information, ecpeeially regarding the port» has been communicated bf John Mackiolay, £m. Collector of Customs, Bo'ness. t Sir David de Hamilton, Lord of Cadaow, mortiied to the see of Gk^gmr, *^ pro salute aniras sus*** an annuity of ten merks Sterling yearly out of bis hmaj of Kynnele, anno 1861. In 1512» John Stirling granted L.10 Sterling yeariy ftmil his lands of Easter Crackey, to a ^iqplain Ibr peHbcming dlTine senrice at one of tb« altars of KinneU Church. X The inhabitants of the barony have ceased to inter at Kinoeil, as burying-gromid has been prorided near the Bo'ness churchyard. In the latter are sereral eipen* sively sculptured monuments, some of which were erected by ikmilies now wtiaet, whose names have been obliterated to gite place to others. 4 BORROWSTOW NNESS, 1 43 it necessary, that Bo'ness should be erected into a parish by itself, bounded on the south, by Graham's Dike ; on the north, by the sea ; on the east, by Thirlestone ; and on the west, by the castle wall, commonly called " Capie's Wall." Some objection appears to have been made to the measure, as it was effected whilst James, Duke of Hamilton, the sole proprietor of the lands and teinds of the parish, was detained in England. However, in December 1669, William and Anne, Duke and Duchess of Hamilton, ob- tained an Act of the Scots Parliament, declaring the church built within the town to be *^ the kirk of the hail barony of Kinneil and Bo'ness.^' From that period, the parishes have been united, and considered as one. The following have been the ministers of Bo'ness after Mr M. Potter : Mr John Brand, ordained 3d January 1694; Mr William Brand, ordained 1739 ; Mr Patrick Baillie, ordained 14th May 1747; Mr John Morton, ordained 10th May 1792 ; Dr Robert Rennie, ordained 9th April 1795 ; present incumbent, admitted i3tb February 1834. The parish church of Bo'ness, at the period of the disjunction from Kinneil, was a long narrow building, with round-topped win- dows. Having become the church of the united parishes, an act of Parliament was obtained for repairing it, in the year 1672, and the Duke of Hamilton added a large aisle for himself and his ten- ants. In 1775, according to an agreement between the Duke's commissioners and the town, the aisle was taken down, and the church nearly rebuilt, of an oblong 6gure, 69 feet by 48, within the Walls. In 1820, the south wall, and part of the east wall were rebuilt, and the galleries were reconstructed and made uniform ; so that the church is now a plain, neat, substantial building, and in good repair.* The church is seated for the accommodation of 950, but might accommodate 100 more, if the vacant spaces in the galleries were seated. The Duke of Hamilton has 30 pews, containing 169 seats, oc- cupied by his tenants, and by the colliers connected with his works. The representatives, who manage the church-funds, let * Sereral curious memorials uf the frequent intercourse betveen Holland and Bo'ness still remain, 'llie pulpit was brought from Holland, and is a curious speci- men of ancient art and taste ; and the oldest pulpit Bible is an Amsterdam edition of the Geneva Bible, reprinted from an Edinburgh edition of 1610, having several of th« usual maps and figurative illustrations. The New Tesument is an English tranalationi by L. Tomson, of Beza*s version. The volume is clasped and ornamented widi if .' 144 UNL1THOOW8H1RB. 1 pews, containing 88 seats ; and 45 pews, containing S7V are private property, but pay an annual feu into the drnrcih From L.20 to L.aO per annum are realized from theae There are 46 pews, containing 274 seats, which pay no faoi the free property of prirate individuals ; and 14 pews, ebot 99 seats, are the property of diflTerent societies. Many of the'i belonging to the societies, and of those which are the proper^ of private individuals, are let, at the will of the proprietors, at varying from Is. to 4s. per annum. There are fourteen free before the pulpit The church, being in the town, is situated near the eastern tremity of the parish ; yet the farmers, even in the most dii parts of the parish, are remarkably regular in their attendanoe at church. The manse was built about thirty years ago, and, though not well planned or neatly finished, is a good houses and in tolerable repair. The glebe consists of about six acres of excellent land, about L.20 yearly value ; and the grass glebe is let at L.4 per annum. When the parishes of Kinneil and Bo'ness were united in lOSfliy ' the act of Parliament appointed the old stipend of Kinneil to bo- ^ added to the stipend given by the town, and the whole to be the constant stipend of the minister serving the cure of the united pa* rishes. According to the act of erection in 1649, the stipend of Bo'ness was 800 merks, with a glebe, and the rent of the minis* tor's house. A stock of 10,000 merks was invested in land, and the annual rent of this mortification was designed for the stipend, but not amounting to 800 merks, the Act of Parliament appointed the inhabitants of the town to be stented 200 merks, (L.1 1, Ss. 8fd«)i and representatives were to be chosen annually to fix and levy the assessment. The farm of Muirhouse, in which the stock was in- vested, is about two miles south from the town, and consists of 169 acres. As it was not very productive at first, the assessment was frequently levied during the first century after the disjunction of Bo'ness from Kinneil, but this has long since become unneces-> sary, as the farm has been greatly improved, and its value and yearly produce have been much increased. The rent of this farm, together with a bond of L.6, 18s. lid. by Duchess Anne Hamilton, and the seat-rents formerly mention- ed, constitute the funds of the church of Bo'ness. These funds are chargeable with five-sixths of the expense of all repairs of the 8 BOBROWSTOWNNESS. 145 church and churchyard ^all, the Duke of Hamilton being charge- able with one^sizth. After deducting the expense of repairs oa the church, and of the management of the funds, the free surplus is payable to the minister. This destination of the surplus funds was determined by a decision of the House of Lords in the year 1806. The church-funds are under the management of the re- presentatives, who are chosen annually on the first Wednesday of January by the heritors, portioners, householders, and heads of fami- lies in the town, in conjunction with the minister and kirk-session. The management of the church funds, in which the Dissenters take a part, is conducted in a manner most creditable to the com- munity, without regard to party views or private interest. The average sum of surplus paid to the minister is about L.iS5 per annum. The stipend payable as from the parish of Kinneil is six chal- ders victual, the greatest part oats and barley ; L.5 are allowed for communion elements ; and cocils are furnished to the minister by the family of Hamilton, conform to use and wont. The sacrament of the Supper is dispensed in the parish church twice in the year. Number on the general roll of communicants, 644; number of male heads of families, communicants, 182; ave- rage number of actual communicants, 450. There is but one Dissenting congregation in the parish, which ift connected with the United Secession Church. Their place of worship will accommodate about 400, and is well attended. QnUributions for Religions and Charitable Purposes. — The peo- ple of this parish are very liberal in their contributions for religious and charitable purposes. Last year the sum of L.24, 12s. was raised by a parochial association in aid of the General Assembly's schemes. There is also a Bible and Education Society, in the support and management of which Churchmen and Dissenters unite. By the annual contributions to this society, about 35 poor children re- <;eive aplain education ; and the Scriptures, the Shorter Catechism, and school-books are supplied to the poor gratuitously, or at re- duced prices. There is an Association of Ladies for the purpose of supplying the poor with clothes, meal, and coals in winter. The farmers ge- nerously aid this work of benevolence by carting the coals gratui- tously. The contributions obtained by the ladies, and the value of the services of the farmers, may amount in some years to L.30. LINLITHGOW. Y. 146 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. A small sum is occasionally collected for defraying Ili6 of the Sabbath schools under the superintendenc6 of the pitfall session. Besides the sums already mentioned^ whieb may teeoM* sidered as regular contributions, sums are occasionally coUaetad il the parish, church to the e&tent of L.8^ LelO, or L.15K, for rtlfgimil and charitable purposes. Friendly Societies^ 4rc— -The following is a statesient of tb# nmi of money paid at Bo'ness from Trinity. Housot LondoiH and hf various institutions in Bo'nessi in the year 1834 : Date of RMtivin^ Name of institution. ii ' ' Trinity House, Sailor's society, • Landman's Society, . Friendly Society of Shipmasters, Beneficent Society, . • Shipmaster's Society, itution. • • • •• • k aid. 19 L.70 *0 1684 15 4 85 1659 10 8 9 1767 18 4 96 1781 50 40 46 6 ••• 20 • 9 • 18 10 L.190 4 ) L.181 9 4 • . 58 14 8 Paid to residenters in the pariah, non-residentq^s, • L.190 4 There is a Provident Union Society, which divides its fundi yearly. In 1834, there were 422 members, the payments in the course of the year amounting to L.59, 5s. Poor and Parochial Funds* — The inhabitants of the barony still observe some customs of their forefathers, which have a referenoo to the old parish of KinneiL This appears particularly in thd management of their poor, which is quite distinct from that of Bo^» ness. The inhabitants of the barony put their church*door coki lections for the poor into the old ladle of Kinneil church, whilat the inhabitants of the town put theirs into a diflferent receptado. After the poor belonging to Kinneil are supplied, the remainder of the funds that can be spared is distributed to the poor of the town. The following statement of the expenditure and receipts of th# * poor's funds of the barony and of the town respectivelyi is the average of three years, 1885, 1836, and 1837 : Expenditure. Annual average of On penna- Ocea* each on per- Total «• nentrolL sional. manentroll. penditurt. Kinneil, .8 91 L.1 14 7 L.22 16 8 Bo'ness, .76 50 285 22501 Hijgfaest rate in Bo*ness for one mdlTidual or fiunily, « • . 6 10 O BORROWSTOWNNESS. 147 Receipts. Kinneil. Bo'nen^ CoUecdoDs at church doors, . . L.16 17 9 L.45 2 6 Rent of landed property, . . . 92 8 Interest of bond, l^zacy, mortcloth dues, proclamations, 12 7 5 37 18 7 Average annual denciency paid by the Duke of Hamilton, 109 II L.29 5 2 L.225 1 The Kinneil funds, which are occasionally augoranted by vo- luntary contributions from a Hearse Society connected with the barony, are always more than sufficient for supplying the poor in the barony. Indeed, the greatest part of the Kinneil fiinds is given to the poor of the town in occasional relief; and this ac- counts for the great number of occasional poor in the Kinneil list The large deficiency in the Bo'ness funds is made up by the Duke of Hamilton. Education. — For several years past there have been about ten schools in the parish. There is but one parochial school, which is very ably conducted by Mr John Stephens, who has been pa- rochial schoolmaster here upwards of forty y^ars. He has the maximum salary, L.34, 4s. 4^\d« His house, which was the first in this Presbytery built under the act 1803, contains more than the legal accommodations ; but the garden ground is rather defi- cient in size, for which he receives an equivalent in money. The schoolmaster is also session -clerk, the fees of which office are about L.14 per annum. The average of school- fees is at present under L.40 per annum. The average of scholars, for upwards of thirty years, was considerably above 100; these last three years it has scarcely exceeded the half of that number. There is a school at Upper Kinneil, supported by the tenantry, for the convenience of children in the barony. That the school- fees may be moderate, the Duke of Hamilton allows the teacher a small salary. The Dissenters, for three or four years past, have supported a school, which is numerously attended. This and the other schools in the town are not endowed, and most of them are taught by fe» males. JAbrary. — A subscription library has existed in the parish above thirty years. It contains about 1250 volumes, many of them va« luable works. Miscellaneous Observations. A great part of Kinneil Carse has evidently been reclaimed from the Frith, and, being under high-water-mark, is \jte«ftXH<^ from its encroachments by strong em\>atALm^vi\^ \\.\'&>\\ji«K^Naixa^ .^;^ 143 L1NLITHQ0W8HIRR. ' . . when or by whom these embftokmeDts were made ; probftUy A&f were effected by James, 6r8t Lord Hamilton.* Between Bo'ness harbour and the mouth of the Aym* 1000 acres of a muddy surface are exposed at low water. if reclaimed from the sea for agricultural purposes, would bea«i» luable addition to the Carse of KinneiL This part of the Fkhh is becoming shallower, owing to the accumulation of mild WeCgfaft down by the Avon and Carron, and especially bj the Portbi Md the beach is assuming more of a fluviatie character. Sir Aoberl Sibbald says, «< These shallows have the name of the Lady's Soanpn^ The Dutch did offer some time ago to make all that scaup good arable ground and meadow, and to make harbours and towns (heiw 10 convenient places, upon certain conditions, which were BOi ie- cepted." It has been the general opinion that the eastern tenninalkA rf the Forth and Clyde Canal should have been at Bo'ness, as this town and harbour possess important advantages which can Bover be obtained at the mouth of Grangeburn. The merchants and inhabitants of Bo ness, perceiving that this canal (commenced in 1 768) would put an end to their trade with Glasgow, hitherto carried on by means of pack-horses and carriers' carts, in order to retain at least a share of it, proposed to make a branch from the great canal to the harbour of Bo'ness. Two Acts of Fkrliament, and subscriptions to the amount of L.1 0,000 were obtained; the canal was cut from the river Avon eastward, within a mile of the town, and an aqueduct across the Avon was nearly completed | but, after an outlay of about L. 7500, the work was abando a eda when not half- finished. The circumstances which prevented the accomplishment of this desirable undertaking need not be stated.} but they were, and still are, deeply regretted by the inhabitants of thb town, especially on seeing their trade turned into another chaii* neL Much of it passed by the canal direct to Glasgow, and the larger vessels discharged at Grangemouth, which was only a creek of this port, but then became its rival, and was eventually ereefed into a separate port. * About the year 1470, a charter, under the great aeal^ jrai granted, <*JaSobo Domino de HamyHoo, de lerria infra mare Incrandih venui terraa da Kimislt d Bunrarditoun." f Formerly there wat an abundant luppW of excellent shell Ssh near this nlies* In 180^ the Newhaven fiaheroien came hither in a large fleet of boata, and aiinoat beloiMtlag Mtdif not in restoring the eealp, aa the greateat part of the rauaelei waa eaat into dMp water, and thoae which were replaceadid not thrhre. BATUGATli:. 149 When this place was much frequented by shipping, ship-build- ing, for which the beach and the patent slip afforded great conve- nience, was carried on to a considerable extent. The names of Hart and of Boag were well known, even in Greenock. Very few vessels are built here now ; but the patent slip has been frequently employed of late. As shipping and commerce now find more direct and easy ac- cess to various parts of the country than formerly, there seems to be but little prospect of any great return of trade to this place, except by the establishment of manufactures ; and few places pos- sess greater advantages for this purpose. A harbour, the safest and most accessible in the Frith, — a ready communication with all parts of the country by land and water,— an abundant supply of coal, — and a large population, having at present but irregular, or inadequate employment, — present unusual advantages for the investment of capital in manufactures. Jpril 1843. PARISH OF BATHGATE. PREBBVTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWEEDDALE. THR REV. SAMUEL MARTIN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History, Name. — In a grant by Malcolm IV. to the monks of Holyrood, this parish is named Batket. In other charters and deeds of the twelfth, thirteenth, and fourteenth centuries, the name is written Bathket, Batket, Bathcat, and Bathkat The etymology the writer is unable to explain. The modern name is a manifest cor- niption of the original appellation. Extent^ Boundaries^ and Figure, — The greatest length of this parish, which is in a line running nearly from west-south-west to east-north-east, is 7^ miles ; its greatest breadth at right angles to its length, is 4 miles. It contains 17.53 square miles: 8921.72 Scotch, or 11214.6 imperial acres.* * Anj one who takes the trouble to compute tbero, will find that these statements are not eiactly, though very nearly* equivalent. Tliey are taken from Forrest's large map of Linlithgowshire, and the writer believes them all to be beyond the truth. 150 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. The Ggure of this parish is ncarty tliat of a parallelogram^ of 5§ miles by rather less than 0^, with a projecting branch running a mile more to the west, a similar one, extending about two-thirds of a mile to the east, and a larger protuberance on the north. It is bounded on the north, by Torphichen, and a small portion of Linlithgow ; on the east, by Ecclesmachan and Liyingston ; on the south, by Livingston and Whitburn ; and on the west, by Shotts and Torphichen. , Hills and general aspect of the Paris/u — The centre of Linlitb* gowshire is composed of a somewhat elevated plateau, surrounded on all sides by hills of considerable height. The south-west cor- ner of this bounding range, which has no general name,. forms the north-eastern portion of the parish of Bathgate, covering nearly one-seventh of its whole extent. Close upon the boundary be- tween Biithgatc and Torphichen, the range attains its highest ele^ vation in the hill of Cairnapple, or Cairnpapple, which is said, ia various maps, to be 1499 feet above the level of the sea. This, it is apprehended, is considerably beyond the truth. There are two eminences within the boundary of Bathgate, one named the Knock, and the other Reiving Craig, which are not more than from 20 to 30 feet lower than Cairnapple. The western, and to some extent, the southern slope of the hilly mass is rather steep^ but contains in it the best land in the parish. The tract at its foot is the lowest ground in the parish, is naturally marshy, and appears once to have been, to a considerable extent, covered with water. The surface water is now removed, and the wetness of the soil somewhat corrected by draining. Beyond this, the rest of the parish, both south and west, is very level, though having on the whole a gentle and continuous rise towards the boundary line in these directions. On the southern half of the west boundary, however, the ground again sinks into a deep moss, which extends between this parish and that of Shotts. Our climate is rather moist, and vegetation is about a fort- night later here than it is nine or ten miles to the east. LakeSf 8fc» — The only lake is a small one of about eleven acres in extent in the park of Balbardie. It is partly artificial, and has an average depth of five feet, though in one place upwards of twelve. It forms a very pretty object in that beautiful and well- wooded park. There is no stream of importance connected in any way with this parish, except the Amond, which forms the boundary for little more than a mile between Bathgate and Whit- BATHGATE. IW buro. Springs abound in ibis parish. The water from them is in many places tinged with iron. One, on the estate of Couston, seems to resemble very much in quality the celebrated Dollar water. Geology and Mineralogy* — The dip of the strata is universally to the west and north-west* The inclination is exceedingly vari- 0US9 ranging from 5^ to as much as 45^. The latter is found, however, only where some violent disruption of the strata has taken place. Almost the whole of this parish forms part of the great central coal field of Scotland. In regard to every part of it except the east and south-east, it has been ascertained from working sand from recent borings, that coal is to be found, and generally in workable seams. Whinstone dikes are of frequent occurrence, deranging the seams and oft spoiling the coal. There are also frequent dislocations of the strata, elevating or depressing the beds, sometimes as much as several fathoms, without any intervening dike at all. Above the coal, and so far as has been ascertained, beneath it too, beds of freestone occur. The crowning points of the hilly part of the parish are all formed of secondary trap rocks, such as basalt and whin or greenstone. These give place on the western ridge and slope to coal, as already mentioned, and to thick beds of sandstone, and mountain limestone. These beds are oc« casionally intersected by a bed of trap, taking sometimes the form of basalt, and amygdaloid, and are all rich in orjganic remains. In the coarse sandstone, and among the intervening beds of shale le* pidodendra have been found, and grasses in the finer grained sand- stone. The limestone is supposed by some geologists to be of two distinct formations, the one a marine, the other a lacustrine depo- sit. The workings in these supposed diflferent deposits are not half a mile asunder ; and if the strata are continuous, which has been ascertained only partially, they must lie within a hundred yards of each other. In the one, various species of corallines, am- monites, and other marine shells of every kind, the pecten^ nautilus^ mytiluSf anomiaj orthoceraSy &c abound. They often form, in fact, to a great extent, the mass of the stone. The principal stra- tum of this formation is about forty feet thick, including seams of flint of varying thickness. Many fissures occur in it, and the lower portion of it may be called cavernous, as it occasionally presents openings into which a man may enter to unknown depths. Vari- ous spars occur in the fissures, and stalactites in these openings. This ^^ limestone is associated with horostoue ; this mineral form- 152 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. ing in it numerous contemporaneous imbedded masses, coniaining in some places siliciGed madrepores/* (CunDingham's Geology of tho Lothians, 7th VoL Mem. Wern. Soc) The other, thm supposed lacustrine formation, has been described by Dr Hibbeit in the Appendix to his valuable memoir on the Burdiehouse Lime- stone. He states that its mineralogical character indicates that it was elaborated under a very powerful chemical action : and he specifies the separation of the miscellaneous earthy matters which compose it into thin laminae, some of them of remarkable teDuity, and their assumption of a striped {rubane^ as it is termed,) dispo- sition, — the blistered appearances, as if from heat, exhibited by the mixed ferruginous and carbonaceous layers which are found in the limestone — the singular wavings which the strata show, not only on the large scale, but even in hand specimens — and the botryoi- dal and mammillary structure, which other portions present, as all '* lending to the hypothesis, that the calcareous beds of Kirkton were elaborated under the action of great heat, or, in other words, that they had their origin in deep fissures, intimately connected with a volcanic focus." He remarks, indeed, that this is no more hypothetical matter. For, ** an interposed mass of volcanic tufa of a green colour, wliich occasionally assumes the compactness of greenstone, is developed among the higher beds of the deposit.** This limestone, with its accompaniments, Dr Hibbert pronounces ^^one of the most unique formations of which Great Britain can boast, indicative of thermal waters belonging to the carboniferous epoch." This limestone, says Mr Cunningham, ** contains the usual plants of the coal series, and also fossilized wood." Speci- mens also have been discovered of a crustaceous animal of very large dimensions. Dr Hibbert has identified them with the Emm rypterus of North America, described first by Dr Harlan, and re* ferred by him to the class Crustacea, and order Branchiopoda. The Kirkton specimens, however, are of a different species froon those found in North America, and are distinguished by their ex- traordinary size.* In the limestone beds, lead is found in small, and oflen interrupt* * In a note to his paper on the Geology of Uic Lothians, already quoted, Mr Cua* ningham says« ^^ to those who are inclined to consider the limestone of Kirkton aa of fresh- water origin from the sutements of Dr Hibbert in the 19th Vol. Trani. Roy. Soc. Ed. * that a decidedly fresh-water limestone is there ezposed* which is character^ iced by the absence of all marine shells, coral, &c.' we may mention, that the fact of its being so characteriaed is incorrcct» in aa much as we have found in it spadfiMiM of the productus.*' 8 BATHGATE. 153 ed veins, exhibiting also traces of silver. One linie-work retains the name of Silver mine from silver ore having for some time been v^rought in it After yielding a considerable quantity of silver, the veins became so small, that the produce would not repay the ex- pense, and the lime alone is wrought now. Traces of zinc (brown blend) are said to have been observed* Iron pyrites is frequently found, disseminated in its crystalline forms. Iron bands are ob- served in the Kirkton formation. In connection with the coal strata, iron ore is sometimes found. Formerly this ore was wrought on the estate of Couston, by the Carron Company, It was found in masses like rolled boulders, imbedded among clay, and was a very rich ore. Thin beds of mineral pitch are found in the limestone. Calcspor is, of course, plentiful ; heavy-spar, pearl-spar, and Ly* dian stone, are occasionally found, and, but more rare rarely, chal- cedony. In the hilly part of the parish, whinstone, greenstone, and basalt are the prevalent rocks ; in the level parts sandstone. The rocks, except on the hills where they frequently crop out, are covered with earth to the depth of 30 or 40 feet. The general subsoil is a wet tenacious clay. Beds and knolls of sand and gravel are, however, of frequent occurrence ; and the general sub- stratum of the south-east part of the parish is deep gravel On this, peat-moss is in some places superimposed. Peat abounds in the parish, and is sometimes of great depth. Fire-clay is also abundant. In all the mosses, trees — ^generally oaks, — are found im- bedded in considerable numbers. Mr Weir, Junior, of Boghead, is in possession of a fine specimen of the head and horns of the red-deer, which were found in a meadow on his property in 1836. The antlers measure respectively 3 feet 2 inches, and 3 feet 3 inches. There are four limeworks in this parish ; and a fifth (Kirkton) recently suspended, besides older workings. One of these works^ on the East Mains of Ballincriefi*, is wrought in the great stratum already mentioned, to the depth of about 25 feet, including a si- licious bed about 5 feet thick, which is not worth burning. The Hrrififf is here from 12 to 40 feet. The covering consists first of earth, then indurated slaty clay, or shale, freestone, and flint* The freestone is often wanting. Another work is carried on a little farther south, on the same property. It is in the same stra- tum, but more advantageously situated for working, being partly on the crop of the bed. The part of the stratum wrought is here somewhat thicker, and contains between 3 and 4 feet of matter not 1^4 LINLltHOOWSHIEB. fit for burning. Close by this work^ oo the property of die, a third one is situated ki the same stratum. Between tiiewii interposed a whinstone dike, the effect of which it terj It changes the dip from 10^ to 45®. The thickness of the able bed is here about 40 feet, with the same proportioo (8 to 4 feet) of waste. The tirring here is only about 15 feet, and tween the surface earth and the lime, nothing but a little loc stone is interposed. Dikes of very yarious thicknesses, it sboold be added, occur very frequently in this lime^ often within eTeiy luw* dred yards. The Silver mine work, opened originally in the pft* rish of Torphichen, has, in the course of time, e&tended into that of Bathgate. It has been wrought as a lime-work about 100 years. It lies higher in the hills, and is wrought in a diffsrsol stratum, or, at least, cut off from the other by a wide massof wUiii The bed of lime, which dips to the north-west at the rate of 1 in 8^ is about 55 feet thick. Of this 40 feet are wrought, the otlier 1ft feet being generally so much coarser as to be neglected. The tirring is from 60 to 70 feet, consbting chiefly of blaes, withOlbet of very hard freestone. Toads have been found in this liobe. The lime produced at all these works is good. Coal has been wrought long and extensively in this parish. On the western slope of the hills, and round the town are many oU workings, which have been abandoned for a considerable timew Of works at present open there is, 1. Barbauchlaw. The earth is here about 24 feet deep, succeeded by common freestone, a blaek hlaeSf (bituminous shale,) /at Aes, (thin beds of friable sandstooep intermingled with shale and clay), twenty inches of red sandsloae^ grey blaes, (common shale), very coarse ironstone, 18 inches of coal, fire-clay, grey blaes, 6 to 8 feet of freestone, fire-clay of m? liable thickness, averaging 3 feet, but sometimes wanting altoge^ ther, and then at the depth of 16^ fathoms the main cx>al, 4 feet thick. 2. In the Hardhill coaUwork, the first workable seam is found at the depth of 16 fathoms. There is nothing between it and the surface earth hut faikes. The coal seam presents first 9 feet 2 inches of coal, then 3 inches of clay, and then 10 inches more of coal. The next seam of coal presents 2 feet 10 inches of coal, 4 inches of blaes^ and 9 inches of coal. It lies 4 fethoms deeper than the first seam, and between them lies some ezcellebl and very white sandstone. From 4 to 6 fathoms deeper lies a par- rot coal, which is not yet wrought. The coal here dips to the norths west, at the rate of about 1 in 14. a In the Colinshiel coaUworl^ BATHGATE. 155 after 6 fathoms of earth, freestone appears, succeeded by a seam of coal 2 feet thick ; freestone very hard and white, lies between this and the coal now wrought, which is 3 feet 10 inches thick, and situated 12 fathoms from the surface. 11 fathoms deeper it has been ascertained that another seam occurs, 2 feet 4 inches thick. Four works have been recently given up. Zoology. — On the banks of Bathgate water, a small stream, which draining the lands east and south of the town, flows past it, and runs towards the north-west, till it joins the Barbauchlaw water, the otter was a few years ago rather abundant. Though its numbers have been very much thinned, it is still occasionally seen and killed there. In the Barbauchlaw water, which is an affluent of the Avon, trout are plentiful. Salmon come up it to spawn in the end of autumn, and return in spring. The following birds are found in the parish :* Grasshopper warbler (Salicaria locustella). Mr Weir found a nest of this rare bird in a thick furze bush on the top of Bathgate hills. ** This," he states, ** is, I believe, the only nest of this bird which has as yet been discovered in Scotland." Sis- kin or aberdevine (Carduelis spintis). In 1834, a nest of the sis- kin was discovered in this parish. As the representations of na- turalists respecting its habits differ, it may be important to state that the nest was on a spruce fir in the middle of a strong hawthorn hedge, and about 5^ feet from the ground. The birds fed on the ripe seeds of the dandelion. In winter small flocks of them are oc- casionally seen on Bathgate hills, feeding on the seeds of the knap- weed, Centaurea nigra. The kingfisher {Alcedo ispida) is a re- gular winter visitant of Bathgate water. In severe seasons, it often seeks its food almost under the wheel of a mill on the stream, although people are constantly passing and repassing. The night- •jar or fern-owl (Caprimulgus Europcms), — several of these curious birds breed here every year. White's minute and interesting ac- count of their habits agrees exactly with the observations made on them here. The crossbill (Loxia ^ttroj9^6r,Macgillivray,) has late- ly been seen in considerable numbers. Their food has been chiefly the seeds of the larch, which they obtain by separating the scales of the cones with their powerful bills. The European dipper (Cinclus aquaticusy) and the sandpiper {Totanus hypoleucos) build * This account of the birds is abridged from a communication furnished to the wri- ter by his friend, Mr Durham Weir, who has paid much attention to this department of natural history, and who lias procured within the parish specimens of nearly all the birds mentioned. f Montague states that this bird is extremely early in its singing. It is so alto in it» breeding. On April 25, 1834, its first brood was found by Mr Weir to be ripe. 15G LTNLITHGOWSHIHE. on tlie brink of the Barbauchlaw water. A few paini of the ring- ouzel ( Merula torquata) breed every year about the rocky grouod on the top of Bathgate hills. The black-headed gull {LaruM ridi^ bundus), the coot {Fulica atra)^ the gallinule or water-hen {Gatti' nula chloropus), and wild-duck {Anas boschag) breed about the banks of Balbardie loch, and Bathgate water. The same ai- tnations arc visited during autumn and winter by the redshank sandpiper {Totanus caUdrii)^ the heron {Ardea cinerea)^ the teal {Qucrquedula creccOy) the wigeon (Mareca penelope)^ the crested grebe (Fodiceps crislatus), the little grebe (Podiceps minor)^ and the bittern( Botaurus itellaris). The great cinereous shrike {Lamiui excubitor^ Linn.) the ruff {Madtetes puffnax^ Cuvier,) and the kite (Milvus regalis) have been occasionally observed. Golden orioles {Oriolus galbula) were once observed, and the turtle-dove (Co/mnfta turtur) once killed in the parish. Most birds that are reckoned game are found in this parish. Black and red grouse, pheasant, and partridge*^ all breed in it. The golden plover (Charadriut pluvialis) appears in large flocks during winter, and a few breed with us. Small flocks of the dotterel {Charadrius marinefluf ) an* nually visit our hills in April and May. The quail has also been seen. The common snipe, curlew, and lapwing breed with us. Woodcocks, jack-snipes, fieldfares, and redwings visit us in winter. So do also flocks of snow-buntings, mountain finches, and starlings. In summer wc have the spotted fly-catcher, the redstart, the wheat- ear, the whinchat, the sedge warbler, the black-cap warbler, (rare,) the greater and lesser pettychaps, the white-throat, &c.f There are two rookeries in the parish ; one, which is extensive, in the wood close by Balbardie House ; the other, which is but the scanty remains of a large one, is on the estate of Boghead. * A few years ago partridges were ?ery abundant, llic inclemency of the lait two or three seasons has thinned their numbers to such an extent that there aeexnt m danger of Uieir becofoing altogether extinct. In the very cold and wet sunuDcr of 1830, several pairs were found dead in the fields with their broods under their wings —A striking proof of the strength of their parental affection. There are at present two to be seen on the estate of Barbauchlaw with beautiful white wings. f It is impossible to notice the more common birds. From Mr Wcir*8 notes however, the following facts may be added : Goldfinches have repeatedly built their nests in trees in the town of Bathgate. On one occasion, a pair selected for this pur- pose a poplar growing on the side of one of the most frequented streets. They be- came so tame, as to alight in the gutters with the sparrows in quest of food. A fe- male goldfinch was known, twice at least, to pair with a mole linnet in the wild state. Tlic produce from this union were not admired as songsters. It is well-known that bullfinches commit great devastation among the buds of fVuit trees and bushes. Mr Weir caught a male and a female on their nest in the act of feeding their young ones. He found tlieir mouths full of small maggots. It is not improbable, therefore, that in destroying the buds, the birds arc in &ct destroying a far worfc plngue to the gar- dener than they themselves arc imagincil to be. BATHGATE. 157 Among rarer insects, the humming-bird moth (Macroghua steUatarum)y and the death's head moth (Aclierontia Atropos) may may be mentioned as having been met with. Botany » — Of the rarer species of plants found in this parish, the following may be mentioned : Paris quadrifolia Orchis bifolia Iris pseodacorus Adoxa moschatellina Polygonium bistorta A8p«*rula odorata Cistus heliantbemura Anthoxantbum odoratura Olycofna hederacea Erysimum alliaria Pinguicula vul^is Saxifraga granulata Solanum Dulcamara Seneciosaracenicus Ranunculus ficaria Malra moschata Hippuris Tulgaris Linum catbarticum. The Geranium phcBum and Saponaria offidnalU have been found growing wild : but it is not certain that they are indigenous. IL — Civil History. There is little of historical interest connected with this parish. The barony of Bathgate formed part of the dower of Marjory Bruce, '^ the lass who brought the sceptre into the Stewarts' house.*' A castle on it, situate in the low grounds south of the town, which must then have been a morass,* was from this date occasionally inhabited by the royal family. Here Walter Stewart himself died in 1328. Hardly a vestige even of the foundations of the castle is now to be discovered. Kitchen utensils of brass, have, however, sometimes been found about it ; and coflBns, formed of flat stones, have been torn up by the plough in the neighbour- ing grounds. Some of the inhabitants of this parish suffered hardship and loss in the time of the Covenanters. One man, by oame James Davie, was shot by one of a party of dragoons, who dispersed a congregation assembled in a hollow on the farm of Blackdub, in the western part of the parish. The worshippers had escaped across a strip of deep moss, which interposed an effectual obstacle to the progress of their mounted pursuers. But while they stood on the other side gazing at their enemies, and thinking tbemsekes quite safe, the troopers fired their carbines at them across the moss. The only shot that took effect killed Davie. His body lies in the old churchyard of Bathgate,f with this in- * Some remains of tbe causeways, by which access was obtained to the castle through this morass, still exist. t There are two grave-yards in this parish. The old is a full mile to the south- east of the town. It surrounds the crumbling walls of what was once the parish cbureh. When this church was built, and when abandoned, is utterly unknown. There was at least one other church between this ancient one and the present church. No flMsible conjecture occurs to account for tbe adoption of a site for the church to hx from tbe town, and so inconvenient for almost the whole inhabitants of the pa« rishy eicept this, that it might have been originally the chapel connected with the Stewarts' castle. The new churchyard is in the centre of the town, surrounding the preieDt church. 1 1 58 LINUTHOOWBOIRB. script ion, ^< Here lies the body of James Datie^ who Wis shot at Blackduby April 1673^ by Heron, for his adhering to the noid rf God and Scotland's coTenanted work of Reformation, in oppoai* lion to Popery, Prelacy, perjury, and tyranny." Eminent Men* — Dr Fleming, the celebrated naturalist, and now Professor of Natural Philosophy in King's College, Abordaeo, is a native of this parish. Land-owners. — The chief land-owners are the Earl of Hop^ toun ; Colonel Swindel Nerval of Bc^hall ; Mr Marjoribanka rf Marjoribanks ; Mr Hart of Kirkton ; Captain Sandilands of Coos- ton, &C. Parochial Regitten^ — The registers of this parish are somewhat voluminous. They had been well kept, except about the ccta* mencement of the present century. Portions, however, have been lost. The register of births b^ns in 1672, and, with a blank between 1684 and 1687, and another between 1604 and I7SI9 continues to the present time. The register of proclamations also begins in 1672, and is perfect with the omission of but two years to 1767 ; from that date to 1789, a record is possessed only for six years ; from 1789, the register is complete. The register of deaths begins 1698, and continues to 1710. From 1710 to 1769, a record is preserved only for eighteen scattered yean. From 1769, the register is complete. Of the Records of the Kirk-session's Actings, Vol. L embraces the period from lft88 to 1645, and from' 1647 to 1650; Vol. ii. from 1672 to 1680. In other three volumes, the record is complete from 1694 to 1792. From that year to 1820, only some loose scrolls of mU nutes are in existence ; but from 1820 to this day they are com* plete. Antiquities. — << Near Bathgate,'' says Penney,* ** are me* morial remains of Druid worship.*^ The writer of this notice gives the statement as he finds it, but does not know to what it refers. In the stone coffins already referred to, some co(^r coins were found. There have also been turned up, in diflTerent parts of the parish, coins of Edward L, Queen Elizabeth| and Charles IL Modem BuUdings. — Building goes on steadily in the town of Bathgate. The principal recent buildings are the Academy, a distillery, brewery, and gas-work. Freestone, either from the * Account of UnUUigoinhire, by John Pennej. 4 BATHGATE. 159 quarries of the parish^ or from those in the neighbourhood, is al- ways employed. III. — Population. The population of this parish has been steadily increasing, as the following table will show : In 1755, the population was . 1594 1791, .... 2825 1801, 1821, 1831, 1841, 2513 3283 3610 3927 The increase in the last ten years being 317, or less than ten per cent, on the whole, seems to be nothing more than might be expected in the natural progress of population. Of the above number, 2809 resided in the town of Bathgate, 103 in a small village, and 1015 in the country part of the parish. The yearly average of births it is impossible to state accurately. Many parents will not be at the trouble or expense of registration* Estimating'from the number baptized in the parish church, the num- ber of births will be about 97 or 98 per annum. The average of deaths for the last seven years previous to 1838 has been 73, of which 19, or 26 per cent, were above seventy years of age, and 9, or 12.33 per cent, above eighty. Taking the population during these seven years as averaging 3700, the annual mortality was 1.973 per cent. This very low rate proves the general healthiness of our climate and situation. It may be also partly attributed to the copious supply of excellent water brought into the town from the high gounds above. The yearly average of marriages for the same period was 28. This parish has few resident heritors. Only five or six families of independent fortune reside in it. There are connected with it nineteen proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and up- wards. IV, — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of imperial acres, either constantly cultivated or occasionally in tillage, is 8712; those which have never been cultivated, and which remain constantly waste or in pasture, amount to 803 ; under wood, 506, of which only 2 or 3 are natural. The rest of the area of the parish is occupied by the site of the town with its gardens, by fences, and roads. Pro- bably one-half of the waste land might be reclaimed at a profitable rate. The only thing like common occurs in the case of two pieces 160 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. of ground ; one of four or five acres, over which a number of peo- ple have the right otfeal and divot (taking turf for putting on the ridges of liouses thatched with straw ;) the other of four acres, on which the burgh has the right of holding the annual fairs. The trees that are chiefly planted are larch, silver, spruce, and Scotch firs, oak, elm, ash, and plane. The management of the planta- tions is in general good. Rent — Wages. — The rent of land varies exceedingly, according to situation and quality. Inclosures round the town are sometimes let as high as L. 3, ^. per imperial acre. On the other hand, there is land let at very little more than 7s. The average per im- perial acre may be 16s. 6d. Husbandry, — Sheep are hardly kept in this parish at alL The only pure breed of cattle found here is the Ayrshire. Mixed breeds are very numerous. The husbandry is fully more pas- toral than arable, the vicinity of the metropolis, and the nature of the soil, making the dairy a very profitable part of the farmer's arrangements. Most of the late improvements in husbandry are finding their way into this parish, in so far as climate and soil will admit of them. The improvements most required are draining and planting. In regard to the latter, some proprietors have of late done a good deal. Mr Weir, Senior, of Boghead, has been the most extensive improver in this way, having, in the course of twenty years, planted 86 acres. But many properties continue almost destitute of wood, though its shelter is in this district very valu- able. In the way of draining and reclaiming waste land, a great deal has of late been done by the resident proprietors, who farm their own land, and by tenants. Some tenants have put dndns in every field of their farms. The ordinary duration of leases is nine- teen years. Rents generally are fixed in money. The terms of leases are commonly fair to both landlord and tenant. If the sti- pulations of a lease are strict, yet deviations from them are never challenged, if the proprietor sees that the tenant is doing justice to the land, (arm-houses and buildings have latterly been con- siderably improved. In very many cases, however, they are much inferior to what they should be. This, with want of capital, and, in some cases, want of encouragement by the proprietors, are the greatest obstacles to improvement in the agricultural state of this . parish. Quarries^ §y. — Besides the lime and coal-works already noticed, there are several freestone and whinstone quarries. Of the for- L.7541 5 3 5448 5 1892 13160 6000 500 BATHGATE. 161 mer, only one is constantly wrought. It is in the park of Balbar- die, and affords a very excellent and beautiful building stone. The whinstone quarries are chiefly wrought for materials for the roads. Produce, — The produce of grain crops averages in value, as nearly as can be oertained, Potatoes, turnips, && Hay, ••...• Land employed in pasture. Mines and quarries, .... Other produce, gardens, woods, &c. at least Total, . . . L.d4541 10 3 Manufactures. — The mass of the town population is manufac- turing. There are about 500 handloom weavers, all supplied with work from Glasgow, except a few employed by an Edinburgh shawl-manufacturer, and a few engaged with custofner-viork. 122 women and girls are employed in tambouring, and 38 in sewing webs. The wages of weaving, though occasionally good, have, on the average, afforded but a scanty remuneration to the work- man for years past. Tambouring and sewing webs have, for a considerable period, been very inadequately paid. Two brick and ttle-works afford occupation to several hands. A distillery has been in active operation for a number of years. A considerable brewery was established somewhat later. Associations. — There is an Agricultural Society here, which has an annual show, at which premiums are distributed. Its influence has been decidedly beneflcial. A Horticultural Society has been in existence for six years. V. — Parochial Economy. Town.^lLhQ town of Bathgate had in 1841 a population of 2809. It was originally a burgh of barony, a baron baillie being appointed by the proprietor of the estate of Bathgate. In 1824, with the consent of the late Mr Marjoribanks of Balbardie, who was then superior of the town, an Act of Parliament was obtained, by which it was erected into an independent burgh of barony, and all provision made for the government, police, &c. of the town. It is now governed by a provost, three baillies, treasurer, and twelve councillors, the provost, two baillies, treasurer, and four council- lors being elected yearly by the burgesses. The burgh funds con- sist of road money, customs, common good, and an assessment li- mited by the act to Is. a-pound on the valued rent of the houses in the burgh ; from these funds the ** paving, lighting, and im- proving the burgh, and establishing a polic® therein,** are clefra^- ^LINLITHQOW. L 162 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. ed. Much has been done in the last four years to improTe the pavements and causeways ; and, a g^as-work havin{|f been establish- ed, the principal streets are now tolerably lighted. The chief employment of the inhabitants is, as already mentioned, manufac- turing. There is a weekly corn-market, held on Wednesday, at which considerable quantities of grain are sold. It is by much the most important market within the county. The National Bank of Scotland and the Glasgow Union have each a branch here. At the last revision of the roll of electors for the county, the number of electors deriving quali&cations from property in the town was 72. In the landward part of the parish, the number was 61 ; total, Ida There is only one place deserving the name of a village, vii* Armadale, two miles west from the town of Bathgate* Means of Communication. — The post-office here receives letters twice a-day from the east, and once from the west. But the dis- patch of letters is not so convenient, the letter-bags being all made up at night. The communications by roads are on all hands very commodious, and the roads in general well kept. The turnpike- road from Borrowstownness towards Lanark runs for about four miles and a-half through the parish, and the middle Edinbui^h and Glasgow road for a trifle more than seven. On the latter there travelled for some years from twelve to eighteen stage- coaches daily. All have been given up since the railway was open- ed. Good bridges are found wherever bridges are needed. The fences consist chiefly of thorns, with here and there a considera* ble mixture of beech. Much attention has been paid to them ; and generally they are in pretty good order. An act has been ob- tained for a railway from Bathgate to the Slamanan Railway ; but there is little likelihood of its being soon acted upon. Four mills in the parish, two provided with steam-engines, af- ford all facility for making flour, meal, and pot-barley. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is situated in the town of Bathgate, and stands very near the centre of the parish, being very little more than four miles from the western, and about three miles and a-half from the eastern end of the parish. Only two families are above four miles from it. Though built in 1739, it is in very good repair. But, built when the population was not much more, if more at all, than one-third of its present amount, it has become totally inadequate to the number of inhabitants. It is seated (at the rate of Id inches a-sitting) for 719 persons. Ac- BATHGATE. 163 cording to the ordinary method of procedure, the sittings, with the exception of the communion seats, which are free to every one, and the minister's seat, were divided among the heritors in pro- portion to the valued rent of their lands, and by them allotted to their tenants. From this arrangement it results, that the whole inhabitants of the town can have right to sittings only in the seats pertaining to the Bathgate property, on which the town is built, and even these must be shared with the rural population on that property, so that the provision for 2664 persons is just 100 sit- tings. Though this is much the worst case, it is not a solitary in- stance of inadequate supply. In 1836, when these calculations were made, the estate of Barbauchlaw had dwelling on it 217 per- sons, while its proportion of sittings is only 33 ; that of Couston 145 persons, and 36 sittings ; that of Boghead, 86 persons and 27 sittings. One or two other estates, it should at the same time be stated, have more than a needful amount of sittings. The utter inadequacy of the accommodation has occasioned a number of dis- putes about seats, and has compelled some persons to join Dis- senting congregations, who otherwise would not have left the Esta- blished Church. The manse was built in 1828. The glebe is about 1 1 acres in extent, and worth, on an average, about L.19. The stipend con- sists of L.76, 18s. 2^d., 45 bolls, 1 firlot, I peck, 2 lippies of meal, and 1 9 bolls, 1 peck of barley. There are three Dissenting chapels in the parish. Two belong to the Relief and the Associate Synod, and the third is at present in connection with no religious body. The ministers of all are paid by their congregations. With the Established Church are connected 2185 persons;* with the Relief, 674; with the Associate Synod, 193 ; and with the other congregation, 267. With congregations out of the pa- rish are connected 78 persons, (of whom 14 belong to the Esta- blished Church, 5 are Episcopalians, and 7 Roman Catholics,) leaving 853 not belonging to any congregation, or whose religious profession was not ascertamed at the time of making the census.f In none of the places of worship is the attendance on divine ordi- nances what it should be. In the Established Church it varies from * All the statements here made refer to August 1836, when they were given in erideooe before the Religious Instruction Commissioners. f Tbb number is much larger than that returned by the writer, many having re- presented themselves to him as Dissenters, whom the Dissenting mini«l«t% ^^ ^v^'^- acknowledge as belonging to their congregations. 164 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. about 500 in summer to 300 io winter. In the three Dissenting chapels, which contain 1569 eittings, the average attendance was stated by the ministers to be 780, and the number of sittings let 630 ; but as these congregations embrace .392 persons beyond the bounds of the parisli, the proportion, allowing both classes to be equally exemplary, would give an attendance from the parishioners of 603, and 487 sittings rented by them. The number of persons who have been admitted to the communion of the Established Church, and have not been cut off from that privilege, nor have joined themselves to any other congregation, is about 660 ; but as this includes old people who cannot attend, some careless people who will not attend, and some whose necessities keep them back from the house of God, it is greatly above the number who join at any given communion. In winter, about 320, and in summer about 350 communicate. There is no religious society in the parish. The collections in the Established Church for religious and charitable objects, inde- pendent of the ordinary collections for the poor, have averaged an* nually L.20, 5s. 6d. Education, — Besides two schools exclusively for sewing, there are three schools in this parish, viz. one parochial, one endowed, and one unendowed. In the unendowed school, only English, writing, and arithmetic, with a little geography, are taught. The parochial schoolmaster, though qualified to teach classical literature, French, and mathematics, is seldom required to teach anything more than the teacher of the unendowed school. The endowed school is an institution known by the name of the Bathgate Academy, es- tablished under the will of Mr John Newlauds. Mr Newlandswas a native of the parish, who, after being bred a carpenter, left Bath- gate at an early age and proceeded to Jamaica, where by degrees he amassed a considerable fortune, and ultimately became a wealthy planter. He died in that island in 1 799, leaving by his will the bulk of his property to certain trustees,* ** to erect a free school in the parish of Bathgate." 1 he will, however, was chal- lenged by friends of the testator in Scotland, and the claim of the trustees opposed by the executors in Jamaica. The trustees took alarm at the prospect of being involved in heavy law expenses, and would probably have abandoned the trust, had not one of them, * When the will came to l>c acted on, a number of the nominations to the office of trustee fell, fr.iTT misnomers, &c. The only nominations which held, were those of Mr M irjoribanks of ilaltiardie. ImtA PolkemmeU Colonel Gillon of Wallhuusc, and the minister of the parish. The eldest sims of the thrtre first, and the successor of the last, are the present trustees. I BATHGATE. 165 the late Mr Marjoribanks, given bis own personal security to his co-trustees, that they should not be put to expense in the matter. After a litigation which lasted till 1814, the will was almost en- tirely set aside. Only L. 14,500 were received by the trustees, in- stead of L.60,000 or L.70,000, as the testator intended. * As the remittances reached this country, the trustees began to salary the teachers in the parish, and to employ others, till they had five schools with six teachers in different parts of the parish, to all of which the children of the inhabitants had gratuitous admission. In 1831, the funds having considerably increased, the trustees com- menced the erection of a building to the south-east of the town, which was opened as the Bathgate Academy in the autumn of 1833. It is a handsome structure, consisting of a centre and two wings connected by two colonnades. In each wing are two class* rooms 36 feet by 24. Behind one of the colonnades is the room for writing and arithmetic, 36 by 29. The centre, and the part of the building behind the other colonnade, are occupied by the library-room and a very good house for the rector. There is a full acre of play-ground in front. There are, at present, four masters in the Academy : a rector, who takes charge of all the pupils who learn Greek, Latin, or French, and who also has classes for draw- ing, music, and composition ; a master for writing, arithmetic, and mathematics ; and two for English. The rector and two Knglish masters also teach their own pupils geography. A sewing mistress was added to the establishment a year ago. At these three schools, above 600 scholars are in stead v attend- ance; and from 60 to 80 more may be entered in the course of a twelvemonth. At the last examination of the Academy, which was in August, there were 587 attending, of whom 6 studied Greek ; 47 Latin ; 71 French ; 1 78 geography ; 7 1 drew geogra- phical sketches ; 75 practised English composition, and were train- ed in drawing, and the elements of musical composition; 368 learned writing ; as many arithmetic ; and 8 niathematics. The parochial schoolmaster has the legal accommodation and the maximum salary, and receives about L.26 in fees. The rec- tor of the academy has a free house, garden, and a salary of L. 1 40 per annum ; the other three masters each L. 105. The unendow- ed teacher receives about L.26 from fees. The rate of fees in the parochial school is, for English, 2s. 6d. a-quarter; English with * The testator's inuaning could be proved ; but the lui>guHgo of the will vnm c!e- darwi not to express what he meant it to expreiis. 166 LINLITHQOWSHIBE. writing, ds. ; aud with arithmetic, 3s. 6d. ; Latin or Frencbi 5f. ; practical mathematics, ds. There is hardly a house in the parish so situated as to make it a matter of much hardship for a child of six or seven years of age to attend some school. The numbers in actual attendance, com- pared with the population, show that the people in general are alive to the benefits of education. The Academy being free to the children of all parishioners, no additional school is needed in this parish, though an additional teacher in the Academy would be of great advantage. But the funds do not at present admit of the addition. Literature, — Connected with the Academy, there is a library for the use of the pupils, containing above 700 volumes, chiefly suited to youth. There is also a subscription library in the town^ recently begim, and now containing above 280 volumes. Friendly Societies. — There are seven such societies in the pa- rish ; one, still the largest, instituted some years previous to 17d4; the others respectively in 1759, 1792, 1799, 1806, 1809, and 1810. They are all supported by annual payments from the members, who amount to 969. They are all intended for the support of the members in sickness and old age. Some of them also pay a certain sum for the funeral charges of the members. These societies are of vast benefit to the members ; and though it may well be doubted whether they promote industry, they help to cherish among them a spirit of independence. Savings Bank, — There has been a savings bank here since 1827. A view of its operations for the last six years shows these results : 1837. 18Sa 1899. 1840. 1841. 18^ Deposited, . L.160 L.74 L.210 L.218 L.288 L.272 Drawn out, .130 211 252 333 245 818 At the last balancing of the books, there was in the bank L.629» 10s. The investments are chiefly made by servants, weavers, mechanics, &c. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The poor are not more numerous than might be expected in such a population as that of Bathgate, though it must be acknowledged that unwillingness to apply for parochial relief is on the decline, and that relatives in many in- stances seem to feel little annoyance at those near to them becom* ing the objects of public charity. 3 BATHGATE. With their On the famlliei they Occasional poor's roll, amounted to poor. There were in 18S5, 47 86 82 1836, 46 . 77 . 19 1837, 39 65 . 29 1842, 70 45 167 Total expense, including ma- nagement. L.225 7 51 . 185 17 10 226 18 0] . 308 15 lOi There was besides an expense for two lunatics, in IdSd, of L.3, 19s. 2d.; in 1836, L.d9, 9s. lO^d.; in 1837, L.16, Os. 6d. The lowest allowance to an individual pauper was 2s. a-month ; the highest, 3s. 6d. a-week, being an allowance to a widow and family. To meet this expenditure there was received In 1835. 1836. 1837. 1842. FromdiurchcoUection8,L.48 17 OJ L.47 7 Of L.42 1 71 L.38 19 64 contrib. from herit., 101 19 1 89 10 2} 183 10 217 7 8^ int. of lent money, 4400 4400 44 00 53 10 other funds, . 26 15 7 736 10 16 7110 Total, L511 11 8i L.188 24 L.279 3 114 L.318 8 3 The proprietors of three-fourths of the land being non-resident, the ordinary funds could not be expected to be adequate to the support of the poor. The heritors made a voluntary contribution for that end ; and to make their contributions equal, they are just according to the valued rent of their lands. The great increase in 1842 is chiefly to be ascribed to the depression of trade. The interest is the produce of L. 1100, which was lefi to the poor of Bathgate by Henry Calder, Esq. of Edisto Island, Carolina, a native of the parish, in 1820, but was only recovered by the pre- sent minister in 1828. The other funds arise from dues on procla- mations, mortcloths, &c Prison. — Bathgate is a sherifldom by itself, a distinction which it probably owes to its ancient connection with the royal family of Scotland. Practically, however, the Sherifi' of the county is now always appointed Sheriff of Bathgate too. Sheriff-courts are held at Bathgate four times a-year. There is a small prison, compris- ing three strong cells for criminals, and a debtors' room, the whole government of which is in the magistrates of the burgh. It is much too confined to be a very healthy place of confinement. During last year (1838) there has been no person confined in it either for debt or police offences, but upwards of twenty deserters or persons charged with military offences, mostly for a single night, on their route either to Glasgow or Edinburgh. Fairs J §t. — There are seven fairs for the sale of cattle and horses held annually in Bathgate, the principal of which take place on the Wednesdays after Whitsunday and Martinmas, O. S. There are seven inns in the parish ; and, altogether^ 31 ^^\%^\n&\v- censed to retail intoxicating lic^uots. T\\\s eTLa^«»'Svs^ \sv>SSx\^v:s^'^^'^ 168 MNLITHGOWSHIKK. of licenses, and the facility with which they are granted, have proved very injurious to the economical and moral habits of many of the population. I'ueL — The fuel used in this parish is almost entirely coaL The use of peat has, almost universally, given place to that of coal. The price of the latter varies from 8d. to lOd. a-load. Many of the parishioners, however, get coal, not from any of the pits in the parish, but from Sir William Baillie's coal-work at Benhar, parish of Whitburn, which yields the best coal in this part of the country. Miscellaneous Observations. Very great changes have taken place in this parish since the former Account was published. The middle road between Edin- burgh and Glasgow, which is by much the most frequented line between these two cities, and which passes through the town of Bathgate, was not at that time even contemplated. No direct road to the east and west existed, except parish roads, the lines, levels, and keeping of wl)ich, were all extremely bad. Increased facility of communication has been of material service in helping forward the other improvements, to which the gradual progress of the country has been leading. Considerably more than double the number of acres is now regularly under the plough ; and, from draining, better modes of culture, &c. the produce is even more than proportionally augmented. Dairy- farming is now followed to a much greater extent than formerly, and has in considerable measure taken the place of the feeding of cattle. A very lar^ge quantity of milk and butter is sent to Edinburgh and Airdrie every week. The greatest change, however, has been effected by the intro- duction of the cotton manufacture into the town. The increase of the population previous to the publication of the former Statistical Account, was ascril)ed mainly to the increase of the coal-works. The coal- works then were situated close by the town, and the colliers were chiefly resident in it. "^Ilie working of coal is pro- bably as extensive now as it was then. But the old works having been abandoned, the collier population is now more numerous iu the country than in the town. Yet the whole increase of popula- tion in the rural part is but 100, while the town population has very nearly doubled. One-half of the whole inhabitants of the pa- rish are now, in one way or other, dependent oi| manufactures. We share, of course, in both the good and the evil of such occu- pations. Jpril 1843. PARISH OF LINLITHGOW.* PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWEBDDALE. THE REV. ANDREW BELL, D.D., MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The earliest form in which the name of the parish ap- pears, is in the charter of David L to Holyrood, where it is spelt Linlitcu. From the time of that prince, the orthography is very various, changing with the fashions of different times, and the taste of different writers ; thus it appears as Linliscu, Lynlithkon, Lin- liscoth, &c. till it assumes its present form, Linlithgow, popularly contracted Lithgow. The etymology of the name is variously given ; some ascribe to it a British origin, its component parts bcs ing traced to words in that language, which signify the lake of the expansive hollow ; others derive the word from the Gaelic, and render it, the lake of the grey doffj supporting this opinion by a reference to the armorial bearings on the common seal of the •burgh, which represent a dog tied to a tree, — referring, as is said, to the old legend of such an animal being discovered bound to a tree on the island which adorns the east end of the lake. An* other, and perhaps the most probable etymology, is that which de- rives the word from the Saxon, in which language, Linlithgow sig- nifies the lake of the sheltered valley^ an appellation descriptive of the situation of that beautiful sheet of water, which, being the :inost remarkable object in the scenery, would naturally determine the name of the town and district. Extent, SfC — The mean extent of the parish is, from east to west, . about 5 miles, and about 3 from north to south. Its boundaries are, on the north, Borrowstowniiess, Cnrriden,and Abercorn; ontheeast, Abercorn and Ecclesmachan ; on the south, Uphall, Ecclesma- * . chan, and Bathgate ; and on the west, Torphichen and the river . Avon, which divides it from Muiravonside in Stirlingshire. The • surface of the parish is very unequal ; towards the east ;\nd north- east it is level, but it rises toward the south, where it is crossed • Oblij^inglj furuUhed by the Rtv. W. S. .Sula^t^ lA\>V\>>ci'^'w* l70 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. ill its whole extent by tbat range of hills which runs obliquely through a considerable part of the county. Several of the emi- nences in this range within the parish attain a considerable eleva- tion : the most remarkable are the heights named Cocklerue and Binny-Craig, the former of which rises more than 600,and the other 600 feet above the level of the sea. Nearer the centre of the range there is a lower set of heights, named from the now nearly ex- tinct village of Riccarton, and connected with the former series by lateral rising grounds, which slope down towards the town of Lin- lithgow. On the north side of the lake, there is another hilly which, though not so elevated as those already named, from its neighbourhood to the Frith of Forth, commands a very extensive and beautiful prospect. All of these heights are either cultivated or in pasture ; some of them are wooded, and the acclivity is gentle. Meteorology. — No regular register has been kept in the parish* It may be stated, however, that the prevailing winds are from the west and south-west ; that the climate is good, and excedingly &- vourable to health. Only a few years back, an individual died in the town, considerably above 100 years of age. Several persons now living in the parish are above 90 ; while 80 and upwards is no uncommon period of life. There are no diseases peculiar to the parish : It has often escaped the ravages of those severe epidemics which have, from time to time, desolated other parts of the coun« try. In 1646, the Scottish Parliament held its meetings in Lin- lithgow, when the plague was prevalent in the metropolis. Hydrography, — The parish abounds with springs, furnishing a copious supply of the purest water. A well at Carubber was for- merly resorted to, as possessing similar properties to the Moflit Spa ; it is now totally neglected. Even the site of it is known to few. There is only one loch in the parish — that, on the north bank of which the town and palace of Linlithgow are situated. This fine lake is about one mile in length, about a-quarter of a mile at its greatest breadth, and covers 154 English acres ; in some places the depth is considerable. Several springs well up from the bot- tom, which, with a rivulet toward the east end, and the surplus water from the town, are its feeders. It discharges itself by a rivulet, named the Loch-burn, which, after a short course, emp- ties itself into the Avon. Embosomed amid rising grounds, some of which are finely wooded, with the gardens to the north of the town stretching along its shore, and overlooked by the noble LINLlTH previous heads. It is gof erned by a council, conskfing of trfin^^ seven members, including provost, four bailios, treasurer. There is no local police, the public peeee ciently preserved, in ordinary circumstaocet, by the Formerly the council appear to have exercised an authorilf would now be deemed despotic In their minutes, variooi for example, occur in relation to the observance of the fi a h he lM i ' One or these is as late as the year 1711, which enforces cburah' dance, shutting of the shops of biBwsters and tapsters under a nalty, and forbids walking on that day in the yards and yard-h eads der penalty of a fine, — holding parents answerable for their cbiMni^ and masters for their servants and apprentices ; and in the fdlol^i ing year, the council, for the preservation of the peace of the tiNM% order a guard of fifteen burgesses to keep watch and ward Dighclj^ from ten o'clock till five o'clock in the rooming. If any should be absent when regularly called in his turn, his house to be poinded mat day for payment of a fine of L.12 Scots. At an earlier period^ m similar act, calling upon the burgesses to march, on some public o^ casion, is enforced under pain of death. The town is amply supplied with the finest waters, brought from springs in the high grounds 16 the south of the town, and distributed throughout the various puUie wells. One of these in particular deserves notice, — the^crosswell,re^ built in 1816 by a one-handed mason, in exact imitation of a previp ous structure which had gone to decay. It is of a hexagonal 6gunB^ adorned with a variety of sculptural and grotesque figures, said to have been originally designed in ridicule of the irregular habits of the regular Romish clergy. It has thirteen very beautiful jMi tmaik and the whole is crowned by a Hon rampant, supporting the rojel arms of Scotland. The town is also lighted with gas. The revemie of the town amounts to about L.700, arising chiefly from proper^i the borough mills, and the town and bridge-customs. Alexander IL had bestowed the mills of Linlithgow, with all their pertinents, en the priory of Manuel, of which the remains are still to be seen oa the opposite side of the river. These, in 1586, were granted to the town by Lady Jane Livingston, prioress of that convent, on condi« tioo of their paying annually 20 merks Scotch. That grant waa renewed after the Reformation by James VL, and other privileges' conferred, by a charter of novodamus in 1592. The bridge-custom was exacted in terms of ancient charters, giving the town right of custom from Avon Bridge to the sea. A claim has been Hwde on LINLITHGOW. 183 the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway for payment of the ordinary dues on goods carried by the Company across the Avon and through the burgh ; and though the claim has been resisted, the council are prosecuting it with a reasonable prospect of success. Should it be successful, it will add immensely to the revenue, placing very ample funds at the disposal of the council for burgh purposes. At one time, the town had an exclusive right of trade from the water of Cramond to the mouth of the Avon ; and when North Queensferry was created a royal burgh, the design was resisted by Linlithgow, on the ground of its infringing the privileges of the latter. The matter, however, was compromised by the Ferry, among other articles, paying ten merks Scotch annually, which sum is still exacted. Linlithgow ranks as the sixth in order of the Scottish burghs. By act of Parliament, it had the charge of the standard firlot measure ; but since the introduction of the im- perial measures, the Linlithgow firlot is only a matter of antiqua- rian curiosity. The town house was built in 1668, and contains the jail, Sheriff- Court-house, and town^hall. The county build- ings in the rear of the town- house are plain in their exterior. The hall is a 6ne apartment, adorned with fine portraits of John Earl of Hopetoun by Raeburn, and of Sir Alexander Hope by Watson Gordon. The town enjoys the beneBt of a branch of the Commercial Bank. Means of Communication, — There is one post-office in the pa- rish, that of Linlithgow. The district enjoys the advantage of ex- cellent roads. There are, in the parish, about seven miles of turn- pike road, under the management of two separate trusts. These roads are in good order, and the funds of the trusts are in a better state than most, having but a small amount of debt. The parish roads extend to about thirty miles, and are in a good state of repair. They have been sixteen years under the management of one indi- vidual. The Union Canal and the Edinburgh and Glasgow Rail- way both pass through the parish. There is a railway station at Linlithgow, where all the regular trains call, and from which omnibuses run to Bathgate and Bo'ness. Ecclesiastical State. — The church, which, being situated in tho town, is near the mass of the population, is a very fine building, of great antiquity, and one of the most perfect existing specimens of the early ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland. It is supposed to have been founded by David I., that ^* sair saunt for the crown.*' "•'1 184 LINLITHOOWSBIRE. By recent measurement, its length is 167 feet, and its bMidthj Wh eluding the aisles 105 feet From the centre of. the watt firaal there rises a square tower, which was formerly furmouDted by as imperial crown. This, however, was removed a number of ago, from an apprehension that it was too weighty for the tot At the time of its removal, it was proposed to replace it by m.a* milar crown made of iron. This, however, has never been effsel- ed. Some of the windows are very beautiful, and, previous to the Reformation, the exterior was decorated with statues, of whieh only one now remains, that of St Michael, the old patron saint^of the burgh. The church, with its pertinents, was assigned by Dl»» vid I. to the prior and canons of St Andrews. It was afterwaids served by perpetual vicars, several of whom attained high rank JD the church. Formerly, the west end was used as the plaee of wor- ship. In 1812, the east end was 6tted up as a church at a cost of nearly L*. 4000, and now forms a very elegant church, seated for 1100 persons. The charge was once collegiate, but has been loqg single. In some accounts, mention is made of an abrogated pe* rish, that of Binny, having been, at the Reformation, united to the parish of Linlithgow. Some, however, doubt whether Binny -was ever a distinct parish, and conceive that the chapel there was sub* sidiary to tlie church of Linlithgow. There is now an excellent manse built, since the last Statistical Account was written, Tfae glebe is valued at about L. 11 per annum, and the stipend ave* rages somewhere about L. 330. There are two congregations eon» nected with the United Secession Church in the parish, one place of worship containing about 600 sittings and the other nearly 600. The former was rebuilt, not many years ago, at an expense of L. ] 150. There is also a congregational chapel Utely rebuilt, at an expense of L. 700, and containing about 850 sittings, fifore recently, a congregation has been formed in connection with the Free Protesting Church. They have it in contemplation to erect a place of worship ; their number cannot be correctly stated, but it is believed that it is on the increase. When the Church Commia- sion was here, it was computed by the Established minister, that there were 1300 Dissenters in the parish, and by one of the Se* cession ministers, that there were 1526, — all the rest being church* men. Since then, their relative numbers have not changed, with the exception of tho recent secession from the Establishment, the extent of which, as already mentioned, cannot be distinctly stated. LINLITHGOW. 185 The members of all the religious bodies contribute to the support of the religious and benevolent objects of the respective denomina- tions ; in some cases liberally. There were various religious In- stitutions in the town, but for some time past they have been in abeyance. It is hoped, that they will soon revive into more than former activity. Education. — There are nine schools in the parish. Of these one is the burgh school, under the patronage of the town-coun- cil, and the rector of which receives a salary of L.dO per annum ; another is a charity school for girls, founded by Mrs Douglas, sister of the late Dr Dobie, minister of the parish; the rest are private unendowed schools. The burgh school had formerly two teachers; but since the election of the present rector, there has been no assistant In former times, it would appear from some old minutes of council that there had been a music school, under the patronage of the council, though no information can now be given regarding \U In 1834, there were 547 children attending all the schools in the parish, and since then the number has not decreased. Literature. — Dr Henry the historian left his valuable library to the parish. For a series of years, it continued to prosper, but for a considerable period, it has been completely neglected, the books being left to decay on the shelves, without one single reader. It is difficult to say what is the reason of this singular fate of a be- quest which, in most circumstances, would have fared very diffe- rently. The cause commonly assigned is the terms of the bequest The presbytery and town-council were to enjoy the beneBt of the library upon paying 5s. per annum, the members of the former body having the first reading of all new works. Other readers were to pay 10s. annually, and to wait for the new productions often till they had become old. Such a constitution could 8carcely be expected to insure prosperity. Various efforts have been made to revive the library ; but, until some alteration is ef- fected in the terms of admission, it is to be feared they will be all hopeless. There is a subscription library at Linlithgow Bridge, and one in connection with the First United Secession Church, which, upon payment of a small annual sum, is open to all who choose to read. There is a news-room in the town, and a society for the purchase 186 LINLlTHGOWSHlttE. and perusal of periodicab. A tmall monthly shecti entillad DUkfm Advertiser, is published io liolitbgowi and circulated thrap^tr out the county, and the eastern dbtrict of Stirltngahire. Charitable Institutions. — There are nine Friendly So ci e t iei im'- Linlithgow, the Masons', Dyers', Gardners^, Crispins^t Tinncfl^: Trades' Friendly, Odd Fellows, and Rechabites. The dkaio ob^ ject of these Societies is, for the purpose of alimenting sick and de- cayed members. Their funds are raised by monthly and quarter- ly subscriptions of the members. The rate of aliment diSBfU. One of them, the Dyers, in addition to the aliment they gifOi al- lows a small sum annually for educating the children of deoeeaed members between six and twelve years of age. They also gife a sum in the shape of funeral expenses at the death of a member or a member's wife. The Rechabite Society is founded upon the principle of total abstinence, a member forfeiting all claim to ite beoe&ts, should he violate the pledge. Several of these Sociotiea have accumulated money and property to a considerable eitent» and all of them are prosperous. Their term of existence is n* rious. Some are of long standing, others are very recent Several of them have existed as Societies, long prior to their becoming Friendly, — as, for example, the Society of Gardeners has existed for several centuries, the person who founded it having been Gardener to the palace in its days of splendour, and the individual by whom the fine old trees which still beautify its eastern front, were plant* ed. As Friendly Societies, the oldest is that of the Dyers, which has existed for eighty years ; then the Grardeners, which has exist- ed for sixty years ; the Tanners, also sixty ; the Crispins, nineteen; the Masons, thirty-two ; the Rechabites, two years ; and the Odd Fellows, a branch of the Manchester Union, only a few months. The Incorporated Trades who have funds,giTe a small annual al- lowance to decayed members. These allowances are more cha- ritable, than granted as a matter of right. Poor. — There are at present about 140 persons on the poor's roll ; the number having very considerably increased within the last two years. The monthly distribution is about L. 24. The rate per month varies according to the circumstances of the per- son, from 2s. to 1 5s. The rent of land belonging to the session, together with the collections at the church doors, and other duea, has, till within these last two years, been suflBcient for all expenses. Prison. — The state of the prison here has been materially im- LINLITHGOW. 187 proved wkbio these last few years, under the inspection of the Prison Board. The namber of prisoners confined during last year, was 125. This, however, includes the county, and affords no criterion by which to judge of the amount of crime in the pa- rish. The prison is well secured, and every attention paid to the health and even comforts of the prisoners ; each cell is heated with a stove and lighted with ga$, regularly cleaned, and as well ventilated as the situation of the prison will admit. Each pri- soner, when brought in, is washed and clothed in a prison dress. The diet is excellent, consisting of six ounce of oatmeal made in- to porridge, for break&st, with three-fourths of a pint of buttermilk. Dinner, ox-head broth, four ounce barley, four ounce bread, and a proportion of vegetables, each alternate day, pease-brose, fish, and potatoes. Supper the same as breakfast Provision is also made for the religious instruction of the prisoners; in addition to the services of a chaplain, each cell is provided with a Testament. Mr Alison the governor instructs the male-prisoners, who cannot read or write ; and his wife, the female prisoners. Many of them appear to value the instruction they receive, and some of them make considerable progress. A new jail is to be immediately erect- ed, in which greater facilities will exist for the exercise of the im- proved prison discipline. Pairs. — There is a weekly market, and six annual fairs in Lin- lithgow. Inns. — There are two inns in the town, one adjoining the Rail-^ way station, of a superior class. There are a number of public- houses. It would be well for the town, were they much reduced in number ; for many of them only serve to administer^ to the crav- ings of intemperance. Fuel. — The only fuel used is coal, which is procured from the Duke of Hamilton's and other coal pits to the west, and from Borrowstownness. MiSCELLANBOUS OBSERVATIONS. Since the last Statistical Account was written, considerable changes have taken place in the parish. Several branches of trade then prosecuted in the town are now extinct, such as the trade in wool, then a staple commodity, carpet -weaving, and tambouring in factories. But though various branches of trade have become ex- tinct, there is no reason to imagine that any great decline has taken place in the prosperity of the town ; population has increased, and 188 LINLITUGOW8HIRS. « the general comforts of the inhabitants augmented* In agiielBl- ture, the change has been great But though agriculture lie m far advanced as in any district, and little remains to be denied in the matter of improved communication, — ^much may yet be to promote the happiness and comforts of the people. July 1843. COUNTY OP LINLITHGOW. This County is bounded on the north by the Firth of Forth ; on the east and south-east, by the county of Mid- Lothian ; on the south-west, by that of Lanark ; and on the west, by that of Stir- ling. It is situate between 65.49 and 56.] north latitude; and 3.18 and 8.51 west longitude. It is computed to contain about 112 square miles, or 7 J, 680 acres ; whereof 50,000 are cultivatedi 10,000 uncultivated, and 11,680 unprofitable. The valued rent in 1649 was L. 75,027, 12s. 2d. Scots. The annual value of real property, as assessed in 1815, was L. 97,597. Population in 1841, 26,848; number of inhabited houses, 5309. The Parliamentary constituency in 1842 was 650. Table I. Showing the total number of persons in the county of Linlithgow committed for trial or bailed in the year 1841 : — Offences against the person, ...... 40 property, with violence, .... 2 without violence, . . . 41 Forgery and offences against the currency, . . . • 4 Other offences, ..*...• 14 Tol 190 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. o be c s o O en eg A* s 3o J CO o o bo a o CO ,8 ■9 e o 3 O a o 'J 3 I T5"W OOD s Is 8_ b 3 O CDO O OO o o o o o o S S3 S Si = J O A o >»^ S S a -^ .§ igJ-ss 3 OO OO O o o o OCD or^ is s a s 3 "3 c 2 M (3 E ••« ja au I CO J] 5 r* ^^ •J OO oe 9S •JBj ui 8iooqd<; 3 I S 2 &: " a sinnpiAipui 'Midg JO *u9p tiQ im^j do 6960999909 99 oooowdo •I S 2 :a : i •OQ OCI g|wip!Aipoi •qojnio noiyr[ndoj tf I 3 1 s ^ O • ^H '5 S 8 i • • • • X & e 1 11 sL- 8 illil 0^ 3taeQ3 INDEX. Abercom, parish of, 18— castle and pro- perty of, 23 Academy, Bathgate, 164 Aebercumig, ancient monastery of^ 1 8 — its history, 23 Aimcoth hills, the, 55, 120 Agricultural Society, the Bathgate, 161 Agriculture and rural economy, 28, 5 1 , 69, 81, 87, 105, 112, 118, 135, 159, 178 Almond water, the, 76, 90, 115, 150 Amondell house, 87 Antoninus* wall, see Roman wall Antiquities, 6, 26,47, 65, 81, 117, 127, 158, 174 Ai^gadus, a British chief, tradition regard- ing, 55 Armadale, village of, 162 Auldcathie, annexed parish of, 90 Avenale, fiunily of, 23 Avon water, 35, 36, 121, 170 Avonton house, 174 Baird, Principal, birth-place of, 131 Balbardie, loch at, 150 Barbachlaw water, 155 Bargeny, Lord, 62 Bambougle castle, ruins of, 95 — its his- tory, 96 Baron, Professor, 83 Bathgate, parish of, 149 — town of, 161 — water, 155 Bedlormie house, ruins of, 50 Bell, Henry, inventor of the marine steam engine, 46 Binn^ hiU, 18— house, 26 Binny, capture of Linlithgow castle by, 171 Binny-craig hill, 170 Blackburn, village of, 119 Blackness, - termination of the Roman vrall at, 26, 65— bum, 19, 57 — castle, 55 —its history, 60, 68— village of, 72— its former importance, 73 Blackridge, village of, 52-^church at, 53 Blair, Lord President, 174 BoMess, see Borrowstownness Bonhard house, 68 — village of, 75 Bonnar, Rev. John, 46 Borrowstownness, parish of, 120 — town of, 134, 139-:-its rise, 139 — raanufiu:tures, trade, and shipping of, 1 36 — its har- bour, 140 Botany, 21, 38, 60, 94, 1 10, 116, 123, 157 Bowden hill, 35 — ancient camp on, 50 LINLITHGOW. Breich water, 76, 116 Brickfield in Carriden, 71 Bridge castle, remains of, 50 Bridgeness point, 55 — village, 72 Broxburn, village of, 87 Bruce, Rev. Archibald, 84 Buchan, the Earl of, 85 Bullion well, the, 110 Bumfoot, birth-place of Colonel Oardiner at, 63 Cairn on Torphichen, remains found in, 50 Caimapple or Caimpapple hill, 35, 150 Calder, Henry, bequest by, 167 Camp, ancient, on Bowden hill, 50 Canal, proposed from Bo'ness to Glawow, 148 Cargill, Daniel, tradition regarding, 81 Carmelite church, remains of the, at Queensferry, 6— convent in Linlithgow, 175 Carriden, papish of, 54 — bum, 57 — house, 60, 68 — termination of the Roman wall at, 65 Carse of Kinneil, the, 147 Castle Lyon, ruins of, 130 Cattle, see Live-Stock CedMS, remarkable, at Hopeton house, 22 Charitable institutions, vanous, in Linlith- gow, 186 Chemical works in Carriden, 71 Church of Dalmeny, the, 101 Churches, Established, see Ecclesiastical Statistics — Dissenting, see Dissenters. Climate and Meteorology, 1, 19, 35, 56, 92,110,121, 170 Coal-field of Carriden, the, 58 Cocklebum, the, 92 Cockleroi hill, 35, 170 Coins, ancient, foimd in BoMess, 129 — in Carriden, 68 — in Dalmeny, 103 — in Linlithgow, 175 Collieries in Abercom, 20 — in Bathgate, 151, 154— in Bo^ess, 123, 136— in Carriden, 58, 70 — in Torphichen, 87, 52— in Uphall, 88— in Whitburn, 76 Comiebum, the, 18, 19 Couston, mineral well at, 151 Covenant, bumingofthe,in Linlithgow, 173 Craigie hill, 91— house, 94— femily of, ib. Crawhill house, 35 Crofthead ironstone, the, 76 Cross, ancient, remains of, 26 Cuflabouts, village of, 72 N 192 INDEX. lialineuy, piirihh of, .00— house, ]>ark, and {^rounds, U\^ f*.V -\illage, 1U(» Dfilyell, (ieiiural, birth-phice of, 24 ]>uvid»on, James, botjuest by, 1U8 Davie, JanieH, dealh of, 157 Dean bum, the, 122 Deehuiont law, 11.5 Deer park at Hopeton house, the, 20 D'Ksse, M., defence of BlacknesH outlc by, ()1 Dissi'iiterH and Dinsonting Chapels, 13, 30, 74, 82, «7, 107, 112, 119, 145, 163 DiHtillery, Bo^iess, 137— Glenforth, 10 Douglas, Mr*, school endowed bv, 185 Draining, 2.0, »7, DJO, 17H Dniidical circle in Torpliichen, 49 Drunishorlan inoor, 87 Duddingstoun house, 27 Dundas of Dundas, family of, 98 — Sir George, 41— John, of Philpstown, 24 Dundas castle, ruins of, 100 — hill, 90 Ecclesiastical statirstics, 13, 30, 52, 73,81, 88, 107,114, 119, 142, 1C2, 183 Kcclesmachan, parish of, 109 Edgar, port, origin of the name of, 2 Education, statistics of, 14, 32, 53, 74,84, 89, 107, 114, 11.0, 147, 1C4, 185 Erskine, Henry, 86* Fairs and markets, IG, 107, 187 Fauldhouse, village of, 79 Ferry at Queensferry, history of the, 9 Fishcric»8, herring, 6lC. 7, 130 — BulmoD, 7, 30, 71, 93 Fishing nets, manufactor}' of, 8 Fleming, Professor, birth-place of, 158 Forth, Firth of, 1— its depth, &c. at Queensferrj', /6.— 19, 56, 57, 92, 121 Founderv, Ikj'ness, 137 Friendly' Societies, 14, 53, 74, 120, 146, 186 Fuel, prices, &c. of, 16, 33, 120, 168, 187 Gardiner, Colonel, birth-place of, 63 Geology and Mineralogy, 1,19, 36, 57, 76, 90,110,116, 122,151 George IV., sailing of, from Port Edgar, 2 Gibbison, Rev. John, 104 Gibbites, origin of the, 1 33 Gil bum, 122 Glenforth Distiller}' Company, the, 16 Glowr-owre-em hills, the, 55 (Gordon, Rev. Charles, 104 Graeme, Sir John, 23 Grahame or Grime's Dyke, origin of the name of, 67 — see Roman wall Grange house, 68 Grange Pans, village of, 71| 72 Greenridge colliery, 77 Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh, aflsasaination of the Regent Murray by, 173 — Rev. Alexander, 104, 110 — Lord Claud, oc- cuiMition of Blackness castle by, 61 — Sir Gilbert, 130— Sir Thomas, 133— William, of Bangour, 110 Harbour of Bo*iicm, the, 140 Hay, John, of Lochloy, 63 ilenderson, John, 133 Henr>', Dr, bequest by, 185 Hildcrston hill, colliery at, 37 History, civil, 23, 38, 60, 81, 85, IIO, 1 16, 127, 157 Hope, Admiral Sir George J., 64 Hope-Vere, family of, 95 Hopeton, General the Earl of; 2, 24 Hopeton house, 27 — remarkable trees at, 22— Deer park, 21 Horticultural Society, the Bathgate, 161 Houston House, 86,87 Humbie, quarry of, 91 Husbandry, svstem of, 28, 69, 81, 88, 106, 113, 118, 135, 160 Hydrography, 19,36, 57, 110, 121, 150, 170 Inch Garvie, Island and forti6catioiis of, 1, 101 Inns and alehouses, 16, 33, 75, 120, 167, 187 Irongath hills, the, 55, 120 Ironstone, beds of^ in Bathgate, 153 — in Bo'ness, 136— in Whitburn, 78 In vera von, ruins of tower at, 129 Jail, Queensferrv, 15 — Linlithgow, 186 * Kid, Rev. Mr, 5* Kinneil, termination of the Roman wall at, 128— Carse of, 147, — House, and its historj', 130 — description of, 131— old parish of, 120 Kippshill, mineral spring at, 36 — house, remains near, 49 Kirkhill house, 87 Kirkwood the grammarian, 174 Knights of St John, history of the, 39 Knightsridge hiU, 115 Knock hill, 150 KnoUes, Sir William, 41 Lady *s Scaup, the, a shallow in the Forth, 148 Landowners, 25, 46, 64, 85, 111, 117, 135, 158, 174 Laughing hill, the, 129 Leases, duration, &c of, 70, 118, 135, 160, 179 Lees, Sir John, Bart, 63 Libraries and literature, 14, 33, 53, 84, 147, 166 Limestone, remarkable, in Abercom, 29, — in Bathgate, 153 — in Torphichen, 37 Lindsav, David, imprisonment of^in Black- ness, 62— Sir Walter, 41 Linlithgow, parish of, 169 — loch, 170 — town and castle, their history, 171| 181 — palace, description of, 176 Linlithgow bridge, village of, 180 — ^battle of, 172 Linlithgowshire, general observations on, 189 I Linnmill bum, the, 19 — cascade on, 92 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. 103 Liflton, ReY. Henry, 1 1 1 Live-stock, breeds, &e. of, 51, 69, 88, 113, 118, 179 Livingstone, Lord, 116 Livingstone, parish of, 115 — peel of, 117 — ^hoiue, i6. — village, 119 Loch bum, the, 170 Lochcote hills, cairn on, 50 — ^house, 51 — loch, 36 Loggie water, 35, 36 Longevity, remarkable instancea of, in LinUthgow, 170 Malcolm III^ marriage of^ 2 Manufactures, 8, 52, 71, 161, 180 Margaret, Queen of Malcolm III., 2 Mary, Queen, birth-place of, 174 Mauke's hill, the, 118 Maxwell of Middleton, 87 Meek, Captain Henry, bequest by, 15, 108 Melville, Andrew, imprisonment of, in Bhickness, 61 Meteorology, see Climate Middleton house, 87 Midhope bum, 19 — house, remains of, 26 Mineral well in Linlithgow, 170 Mineralogy, see Geology Ministers of Abercom from 1690, 25— of Bo'nesB from 1694, 143 — of Dalmeny, from 1610, 104 — of Queensferry from 1635, 13— of Uphall from the Reforma- tion, 89 Monshill, 91 Mowbray, &mily of, 96 Muir, Sfunuel, 81 Muirhouses, village of, 72 Murray, Patrick of Livingstone, 116 Murray, the Regent, assassination of, 172 Nethermill bum, the, 19 Nets, manu&ctuie of, 8 Newlands, John, bequest by, 164 Newton, limestone quarry of, 29 — village of, 30 New Year field, the, 117 Ochiltree mill, Roman camp at, 175 Ogil&ce castle, ruins of, 50 Palace of Linlithgow, the, 176 Panter, Secretary, imprisonment of, in Inch Garvie, 101 Parochial registers, 4, 25,47, 64, 103, HI, 117, 127, 158, 174 Pauperism, see Poor Peanfiihel, termination of the Roman wall, at, 26 Phipstown, village of, 30 Phmtations and planting, 22, 38, 106, 1 1 3, . 118,179 Poor, management of the, 14, 15, 33, 53, 75,89, 108,115,120,146,186 Population returns, 6, 28, 51, 69, 81, 87, 104,112,118,134,159,177 Porteous, Dr William, 82 Potter, Rev. Michael, 133 Pottery, Bo'ness, 137 Preceptory of Torphichen, the, 40, 47 Preston island, 121 Priestinch hill, 18— bog, 1 9— coal mine at, 20 Primrose, &mily of, 97--ArchibaId, ib. Prison, Bathgate, 167— Lmlithgow, 186 Produce, agricultural, &c., 30, 52, 7 1 , 1 1 3, 160 Quarries, 29, 37, 52, 70, 81, 88, 118, 136, 153, 160, 179 Queensferry, parish of, 1 — town of, t5.-~its early importance, 2-— history, i5.— his- tory of the Ferry, 9 — piersand harbours, 11,12 Ramsay, Rev. Mr, burning of the cove- nant by, 173 Registers of Queensferry, extracts from, 4 Reiving crag, 150 Rent, rates of, 51, 69, 105, 113, 118, 135, 160 Riccarton, village of, 170 Rigg, William, imprisonment of, in Black- ness castle, 62 Roads, bridges, &c., 9, 30, 52, 72, 106, 114,162,183 Roebuck, Dr John, projector of the Car- ron Iron Works, 63 Roman remains found in Carriden, 68«- in Dalmeny, 103 — in Linlithgow, 175^ Road, 102, 128, 174— Wall, the great, 26, 60, 65, 127 Rope work, Bo^ess, 137 Rosebery, Earl of, 1, 95 — history of the &mily of, 97 St John, Kniffhts of, 39 — their Preceptory at Torphichen, 40 Salt-works on Carriden, the, 71 Sandhills, remarkable, in Torphichen, 37 Sandilands,fiunily.of,45— Sir James, 42, 44 Savings' Banks, 74 Schools, see Education Scottish Parliament, meetings of the, in Linlithgow, 173 Semple, Lady, bequest by, 107 Shairp of Houston, &mily of, 86 Sibbald, Sir Robert, 46 Soap, manu&ctory of, in Queensferry, 8 Society, village of, 30 Sonmierville, Dr James, 83 South Queensferry, see Queensferry Spring, mineral, in Torphichen, 36 Stair, the Earl of, 174 Stewart of Craigie, frunily ot 95 — Dugald, residence of, in Bo^ness, 131— Walter, 157 Stone coffins found in Bathgate, 157 — in BoViess, 129— in Carriden, 68 — ^in Dal- meny, 102 — in Torphichen, 50 Strathbrock, origin of the name of, 85— i history of, 86 Templars, suppression of the, 40 Tide, rise of the, at Queensferry, 1 194 INDEX. Tor hill, the, 110 Torphichen, parish of, 34 — village of, 52 — family of, 42— tenure of their title, 43 Trees, remarkable, at Hopeton home, 22 Uphall, parish of, 85 — village of, 87 lima, ancient, found in BoViesB, 129 Wages, rates of, 28, 51, 160 WaU, the Great Roman, see Roman Wallace's Cave, 35 Wallhouse, mansion-house of, 51 Walton, termination of the Roman Wall at, 65 Warden, Rolxyrt, Esq., 113, 114 Wardrope, Rev. Alexander, 82 Watt, James, 63, I 1 Wauch, Rev. John, 132 Wellhodse, mineral spring at, 36 Weill, Alexander de, 41 Welsh, ReY. John, impritonment of, in Blackness, 62 Whale, remarkable, cau^t at Abercom, SO Whitburn, parish of^ 66 Wilkie, William, 99 Winzet, Ninian, 174 Wishart, Principal, 131, 132— Rev. WU- liam, 132 — Reai^ Admiral, ib. Zoology, 20, 38, 92, 155 PRIVTED BY RTARK AND COMPANY', OLD ASSKMBLY CLOiSB, BDINBIHIOH. HADDINGTON. * y?' I 9- \ ■ i . I 1^ 1 :■: \ ■J. *^. CONTENTS. ABERLADY, ATHELSTANKFORD, BOLTON DIRLETON, DUNBAR, GARVALD AND BARA, 6LADSSIUIR, HADDINGTON, HUMBIE, INNERWICK, MORHAM, NORTH BERWICK, OLDHAMSTOCKS, ORMISTON, PENCAITLAND, PRESTONKIRK, PRESTON PANS, 8ALT0N, SPOTT, .8TENTON, TRANENT, WHITEKIRK AND TYNNINHHAM WHITTINGHAMK, YRSTER, E, PAGE 249 41 271 202 70 95 173 1 100 233 261 317 355 130 . . 18 3Sf4 106 224 65 282 29 61 153 n ■t ■ PARISH OF HADDINGTON. PRESBYTERT OF HADDINGTON, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. • THE REV. ROBERT LORIMER, LL.D. ) itrfxricTcuc THE REV. JOHN COOK, | MINISTERS. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Haddington, the county town of Haddingtonshire, or East Lothian, lies in 55^ bT north latitude, 17 miles east fronn Edinburgh, on the great post road to London. The name, though apparently of Saxon origin, is of uncertain etymology. Extent^ Boundaries, — The parish is 6^ miles io length; 6 in breadth ; and contains 22^ miles square, or about 19^000 dicres Scots, it was formerly of much greater extent ; but in 1074 part of it was annexed to the smaller parish of Athelstanerord ; and in 1692 a considerable portion, including several baronies on the west, was taken off to make up the new parish of Gladsmuir. On the north it is bounded by part of the lands of Gladsmuir, Aberiady, and Athelstaneford ; on the east by Prestonkirk and Morham ; on the south by Yester and Bolton; and on the west by Gladsmuir. The parish has chiefly a northern exposure, the land gradually ris- ing from the vale of Peffer, near the sea, to the height of Brown's Hill, which looks down upon the village of GiflTord. Topoffraphical Appearances. — The appearance of the parish is beautifully diversified by a waving irregularity of surface, thriv- ing plantations, well enclosed and richly cultivated fields, ex- tensive parks of verdant pasture, and elegant seats of the nobi- lity and gentry. Besides trees disposed, for ornament around the seats of the nobility and gentry, there are plantations of some ex- tent on the grounds of Amisfield, running up in broad regular belts to the Garleton Hills ; on the south of Stevenson ; on the higher grounds of Coalston ; and on the lands of Sir Thomas Hep- bum, Bart, towards Gladsmuir. On some parts of Coalston are copse woods, composed of dwarf or Scotch oak, the hazel, the birch, and other indigenous trees, which seem to be a remnant of HADDINGTON. A 2 HADDINGTONSHIRE. tluit si)ecie;> of copse which, it is said, in early times covered the greater part of the south of Scotland. Coalston wood is mention- ed in some of the ancient deeds of the family so far back as the thirteenth centurj*. The climate is very salubrious, remarkably free from endemic disease, or visitation of contagious fever. It is still, however, in the recollection of aged people, that in their early days, some were laid aside from work every spring, with ague : but now, the soil being so well drained, this disease is rarely if ever heard of in the district. There are at present upwards of 150 persons above seventy years of age, a considerable number beyond eighty, and several above ninety. As an instance of extraordinary longevity in one family, it seems worthy of record) that Alexander Maitland, and Catherine Cunningham, were married 6th August 1657. The ages of nine of the children of this marriage amounted to no less than 738 years. Another thing remarkable of this marriage is, that the eighteenth year of it produced trines, and the twenty-first twins. The ages of the trines amounted to 256. Hydro(jraphy, — The Tyne is the only river in the parish. Its source may be traced into the parish of Crichton, about twelve miles westward. After receiving the tributary streams of Salton and Coalston, it passes through Haddington, dividing the burgh from the suburb of Nungate, and proceeding nine miles eastward, falls into the sea below Tyninghame, about a mile to the westward of Dunbar. Though generally of moderate breadth and depth (averaging ten or twelve yards in breadth, two feet in depth, and flowing, when unimpeded by embankments, somewhat less than two miles an hour,) yet being as a trough to a large extent of sloping surface, particularly the Lammermoor range of mountain on the south, it sometimes suddenly swells, and overflowing its banks oc- casions considerable damage. There arc four stone bridges over it in the parish. It is stated by the Rev. Dr Barclay in a former account of the parish of Haddington, (Transactions of Antiquaries of Scotland, Vol. i. page 46,) on the authority of Fordun, lib. xiv. c 21, " That on Christmas eve 1358, there happened a most extraordi- nary inundation. The rivers swollen by excessive rains, rose above their banks and swept away many villages, houses, and bridges, and many persons lost their lives whilst endeavouring to save their pro- perty, — not only cattle but tall oaks and other large trees were torn up by the roots and carried off to' the sea. Sheaves of corn were HADDINGTON. 3 carried off the adjacent fields, from whence it appears that the har- vest that year must have been remarkably late. As it approached the Abbey of Haddington, a nun snatched up the statue of the Virgin, and threatened to throw it into the water, unless Mary protected her Abbey from inundation. At that moment the river retired," says Bowmaker, (the continuatorof Fordun,) "and gradu- ally subsided within its limits." On consulting, however, GoodalPs edition of Fordun's Scotichronicon the words are " In vigilia nati- vitatis nostrcB DomincBi'* (not nostri Domini, as some must have read or imagined,) that is, the 7th of September, the nativity of the Virgin Mary being the 8th of that month. In Hearne's edition of Fordun, Vol. iv. p. 1053, the words are, " In vigilia nativitatis beatae virginis." The harvest that year, therefore, was not late. It is probable that Dr Barclay proceeded on the high authority of Lord Hailes, who mentions it in his Annals among the miscellaneous and memorable occurrences of that year. It appears by our MSS. histories, that upon the festival of St Ninian, 1421, the waters, by constant rains, swelled to such a height, that there were a great many houses entirely defaced in the town, and the people went into the church in a boat, so that the Sacristy, with their fine library and ornaments for divine service, were greatly damaged, ( Spottiswood's Account of Religious Houses in Scotland, p. 274.) A similar flood happened on the 4th October 1775, which was 350 years after. The Tyne then rose seventeen feet above its level in less than an hour, and inundated more than half the town in its vicinity. This sudden swell is supposed to have been owing to the bursting of a water-spout to the southward above Gifford, as there was not much rain to the north or in the neighbourhood. As this happened during the day, mercifully no lives were lost Geology, — There are few sections, natural or artificial, in the pa- rish, from which one can ascertain the disposition and direction of the strata. The rock of which the Garleton range of hill is com- posed appears to be a secondary trap, approaching to what is cal- led clinkstone, contemporaneous with North Berwick Law and Trap- rain, the two principal heights in the neighbourhood. Heavy spar is found near the west end of the hills. In the lower grounds is sandstone of different colour and quality. The alluvial matter in the bed of the river is the debris of secondary trap, with nodules of quartz. There are no mines in the parish. It appears from Aft ^^aasssss^^. 4 HADDINGTONSHIRE. records of the burgh, that attempts hjive been made at different times for 300 years back, to obtain coal from lands belonging to ' the town on the borders of Gladsmuir. In 18239 the attempt was renewed, and L. 1800 at least expended on the trial, but without success. The thinness of the coal seam did not repay the work and remunerate the proprietors. The onlv mineral spring in the parish is a weak chalybeate at Dobson's well, about half a mile west of the town of Haddington. The soil of the parish is various. In some places, towards Glads- muir, it is thin and of inferior quality : but in general it is good, and in a high state of cultivation. II. — Civil History. Historical Notices, — Haddington, as appears from the Civia quatuor Burgorum^ is a town of great antiquity ; but when it was erected into a royal burgh is uncertain — its ancient records having been destroyed by the inroads of the English, who several times burnt the town and laid it waste. Tliere is a charter ♦ amongst the public records, from James V., dated 1542; but the most an- cient charter in the records of the burgh is one from James VL, dated 13th January 1624, confirming all their ancient rights and privileges. Haddington is the tenth in the order of precedency among the royal burghs, and pays L. 1, 16s. in every L. 100 of their assessments. There are only two villages in the parish, and both inconsi- derable. Of the one, St Lawrence House, about a mile to the westward of the town of Haddington, there is neither record nor ^ tradition of any importance ; the other is the Abbey, somewhat more than a mile to the eastward. Here in 1178, Countess Ada of Northumberland, mother of Malcolm IV. and William the Lion, Kings of Scotland, founded and richly endowed a convent or priory of Cistertian nuns, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; and here on the 7th July 1548, the Parliament of Scotland was con- vened, and their consent obtained to the marriage of the young Queen Mary with the Dauphin, and her education at the court of France. Haddington was the first place in Scotland visited by cholera asphyxia in 1831. This pestilential disease, originating in the jungles of Hindostan about the year 1817, and progressing west- ward, after spreading death and destruction over a vast extent of territory, reached the eastern coast of Britain in summer or autumn * It is noticed as a demesne town of the Scottish King in the tvelflh centurj. 4 \ - HADDINGTON. 5 1831. From Sunderland and Newcastle, its next step was to Had- dington, passing over the intermediate country and populous towns of Berwick and Dunbar. As soon as its arrival was ascertained, a board of health was formed, and the most prompt measures were used for cleansing the streets and alleys of the town ; white- washing and fumigating infected or suspected houses, liberally distributing flannel clothing to the poorer classes, and amply sup- plying them daily with nourishing food from a soup-kitchen. A commodious hospital was found and fitted up to receive patients, and the medical faculty were in constant attendance. The num- ber of cases in all was 125, of which were, 50 men, 66 women, 1 boy, and 8 girls. Of these 57 died, (two or three of the cases hap- pened to be passing strangers who brought the disease with them.) It chiefly attacked the intemperate and dissipated in the humbler ranks, though others of better condition and habits, but of feeble constitution, fell victims to its violence. It reached Haddington on 17th December 1831, and entirely left the place on 22d February following. In one night there were 8 deaths. The expenses incur- red during these two months amounted to about L. 400, of which L. 150 were contributed from the county subscription fund, L. 112 by collections at the church doors, and the remainder by voluntary subscription. Seats of the Nobility and Gentry. — The landward part of the parish is studded and embellished with the family seats or mansions of the nobility and gentry; — Amisfield, on the south bank of Tyne, belonging to the Earl of Wemyss and March ; Stevenson, about half a-mile to the eastward, the seat of Sir John Gordon Sinclair, Bart. ; Lennoxlove, anciently Lethington, about a mile to the south of Haddington, the seat of Lord Blantyre.* Part of this latter mansion is very ancient, having been built by the GifTords. The square tower, it is believed, is not surpassed in strength and height by any fortalice in Scotland. Lethington was long the chief residence of the Lauderdale family. Sir Richard Maitland, and Secretary Maitland lived here, and John Duke of Lauderdale was born, and spent most of his days in same place.f A little to the * The chx&nge of name was made by Alexander Lord Blantyre in honour of, and gratitude to hb relation and munificent beneiactress* Frances Duchess of Lennox and Richmond, who, by a large bequest, enabled him to purchase it. She was a lady of great beauty and accomplishments, and so passionately admired by Charles II. that he sought to honour her by having her person represented on the coinage under the emblematic figure of Britannia, -)- 'J he first park wall, enclosing an extent of surface somewhat more than a mile square, was built by the Duke of Lauderdale (in the space, it is said, of six weeks,) in consequence of a sarcastic remark of the Duke of York— intimatw^ >\vax^\jRSssi^ 6 HADDINGTONSHIRE. east IS Monkrigg, the elegant new mansion of the H(mourable Oip- tain Keith, R. N. To the south, again, and within view of LemKn^ love is Coalston, the seat of the family of Brown, the most cient family in the parish, now possessed by its amiable and cellent representative, the Countess of Dalhousie. On the north of the Tyne, and west of the town of Haddington, are the estates and Houses of Clerkington, belonging to Colonel Robert Houston r Letham, the property of Sir Thomas Hepburn, Bart ; Aldenton^ that of Robert Stewart, Esq. M. P. ; and Huntington, of WiUiani Ainslie, Esq. Eminent Men. — It appears that Haddington was at one time a royal residence, and that Alexander IL was bom there in the year 1 198. But it is much more distinguished as the birth-place of the illustrious Scotch Reformer, John Knox. He was bom in the Gifford- gait, adjoining to the town, in 1505, and afterwards educated at the grammar-school of the burgh. Some writers, misled probably 1^ the name of the Gifibrd-gait, or way that leads to Gifford, have said, ^^ that he was bom at Gifford, near Haddington." But» in the first place, immemorial, unopposed, unchallenged tradition has fixed this suburb of Haddington on the old Gifford road, as the place of his nativity, and the site of the house is still sho^m ; and next, though Gifford, as a barony^ has existed and been known by that appellation since Hugh de Gifford settled in East Lothian under David L, and received from William the Lion the manor of Yester ; yet there is reason to believe that Gifford, as a viUagej did not exist in the time of the Reformer, nor for more than a century afterwards. Indeed the present village of Gifford is comparatively of modern origin ; owing its rise and locality chiefly to the removal of the ancient church of Bothans from the vicinity of the mansion house of Yester to its present site, about the beginning of the eight* eenth century. Previous to this period, tradition speaks only of a single house there, Giffard-hc^^ which, in the colloquial parlance of the country, is still applied to designate the village.* his first risit to this part of the island, he heard there was not so much as a park in SeotUmd. The wall was twelve feet in height, but many years ago, was reduced to seven. At this place the excellent imedes of apples called Lethingtons were first oul- tivated, having been brought from France about the middle of the sixteenth century. * The following extracts from the records of the town-ooundl of Haddington, which extend as &r back as 6th March 1424, are illustrative of the antiquities of the burgh and of those olden timr . as to edticaHaiu ** October 6, 1559, The council thought it expedient to fee Mr Robert Dormont to be skoillmaister of the burgh, with 24 merka in thfl VASir. niiviihl« nff* flio oAmmnn cnule r *fl Allmvcwi finr * ilk frvorti limra* 1€M. use and wont was. The council to find Mr Dormont * ane chalmer and skoilUhouse in the year, payable off the common gude; and allowed fiir* ilk town bdm* 12d. lOOl-' termly of school-house fee, and 4d. termlv from the parents or fnends of the bairn as use and wont was. The council to find Mr Dormont / ane chalmer and skoilUhouse main fre.**" In February 1569^ is a contract between the town and Thomas Cvmyn HADDINGTON. 7 The talented and noble family of Maitland became connected with this parish so early as towards the end of the fourteenth cen- schoolmastcr, by which he binds and obliges himself" to leur all and sundry the bairnis of the inhabitants of the same burgh dihgently in grammatik letters, in Latyn toung and moralie vertues at his possibilities shewing himself by good life, honest behayiour and conversation, example to others, as well as in his instruction and doctrine, as God will give him grace, and at his possibih'tie during all the days of his lifetime— that he should receive 70 merks yearly and iiij. shillings money in the year, at iiii. terms. Bel- tane, Lammas, Candlcmass, and Hallowmass ; ilk term x^d. of ilk bairn he learns and instructs of the inhabitants of the burgh of skolaige silver alanerlie.** In 1579, Mr John Ker is feed as schoolmaster after the same tenor with Mr Cumyn. ** To receive threescore pounds yearly as stipend ; and uptake for ilk bairn, 4s. money of stipend yearly at four terms and to have a doctor under him, to have his meat of ilk faoim, and 4d. termly as above-mentioned.** It appears that the offices of schoolmaster and minister were sometimes conjoined in the same individual. From the minutes of 14th December 1669, it appears that previously the school hod convened every day by six in the morning, both summer and winter, but the council for the health and welfare of the children fix that from Hallowmas to Candle- mas, in time coming the school shall only convene by nine in the morning. Ttie MtHtstera of Haddington, — In 1531, Sir James Mauchlyne is mentioned as curate of the kirk of Haddington, Sir Thomas Mauchlyne as Lady Priest, there, and Sir Patrick Mauchlyne, Count kirk master in the same — It may be observed that the title Sir was not fbrmerly peculiar to knights; it was also given to priests, and sometimes to inferior personages. Dr Johnson thinks this title was applied to such as had taken the degree of A. B. in the universities who are styled domini, Sirs, to distinguish them from the M. A.'s who are styled magutri, masters, — Percy's Reli- ques. Vol. 1. Mr Patrick Cockburn, son to Cockbum of Langton, was the first Protestant minis- ter settled at Haddington after the Reformation. Having, when young, entered into holy orders, he went over to the university of Paris, where he taught the Oriental languages with great applause. On returning home he embraced the reformed re- ligion, and officiated as minister of Haddington till his death in 1568. Dempster characterizes him as the most learned and moderate of all the Scotch reformers. On 31 St March 1570, the council ordained John Ayton, Provost, and Barnard Thom- son, bailie, to pass to Edinburgh to mein to the session for a minister — that is apply to the session to obtain a minister. On Idth April same year, the council ordained the Provost and << ane othair honest man with him** to pass to the Assembly of Edin- burgh, at midsummer next to get an answer to the giving of a minister to the town. —June 14th. To speik hie kirk for obtaining a minister and his stipend.-— 25 August, the council ordained John Douglas, bailie, to pass to Edinburffh, to convoy ihe xfli- nister, Mr James Carmichael, to the burgh against Sunday next, 1571. — 1572, January 10. The council authorized the treasurer to deliver to Mr James Carmichael, mi- nister, X. merks, to pay his ** cbalmer mail!" for one year from Martinmass in the year of God 1571 years alanerlie. From the presbytery records it appears that the cure of the churches of Haddington, St Martin's in the Nungate, and Athelstaneford were served by Mr James Carmichael from 1592 to 1602. Mr George Grier was ordain- ed minister of St Martin's church in 1602. Mr Carmichael was also schoolmaster, for which he received forty pounds (Scots) yearly. But May 28th 1574 the provost, bailies, and council, with advice of the deacons, stated and ordained, that in no time coming the minister of the kirk should be admitted schoolmaster of the burgh. — 1588, December 9th, An act was passed respecting a manse for the minister. The highest stipend of the reformed clergy was L. 600 Scots; the fourth minister of Edinburgh luui only L. 60, being little more than L. 5 Sterling — 1572-73, February 28. The council conducit Mr Walter M*Canquell (Balcanquell) to read the common prayers in the kirk at vii. hours before noon in summer, and viii. hours in winter, and that on Sunday, Wednesday, and Friday, and to be clerk in the session and doctor in the school — the council agreeing to pay to said reader 50 merks in the year. Member* of Parliameni, 20 November 1579. The council authorized the trea- surer to pay to James Cockburn his expenses at the parliament, extending to xxiii. days; and to William Brown xiii.days; and to John Thomson xxiiii. days, each day 5s. money. On 5th October 1669, John Hay of Baro, was elected commissioner to the Par- A HADDINGTONSHIRE. tury by the purchase of Lethiugton, which was afterwards their chief residence. Sir Richard Maitland of Lethington, bom in 1496 and died 1586, aged 90 years, was a man of distinguished ment and abilities. He was many years a Lord of Session and Lord Privj'-Seal. Two small volumes of his poems have been pub- lished by Mr Pinkerton. The eldest son, William, was secretary of state during the reign of Mary Queen of Scots. The character and fate of this accomplished statesman are well known. All his brothers were men of uncommon merit and talents, and, like him-* self, reflect a lustre on the place of their nativity. John, the se- cretary's next brother, rose to the highest offices and honours in the state, being advanced to the dignity of Lord High Chancellor of Scotland, which he held till his death, dd October 1595. In 1590, he was created Lord Maitland of Thirlestane.* Thomas, the youngest brother of the Secretary and Chancellor, was high- ly accomplished as a scholar and gentleman. He is one of the CoUoqutors in Buchanan's celebrated dialogue, " De jure regni apud Scotos." Some of his Latin poems published by Scotstarvet are extremely elegant. John Earl of Lauderdale, son and heir of the Chancellor, was a nobleman of the greatest worth.f liamcnt, and allowed (is. Hd. per day for his expenses. The allowance (5th Julj 16B1 ) to Provost Cockburn and his man for each da.y%* attendance in Parliament was L. 5 Scots. On 24th September IG98, the large sum of L. 236, 2s. Scots was voted as commis- sion fees to the Parliament in July, August, and September last, so that the practice of paying members continued till the period of the Union. Before the Revolution every parent was obliged, under a penalty, to have his child baptized by the Established clergyman, and registered. At present few Dis- senters register the names of their children. It appears from the records of the town- council, that the pett, after making fearful ravages in Edinburgh, travelled eastward ; for it is stated (20tli September 1580,) that the weekly market was suspended, and all travel to or from Edinburgh, Leith, or other suspected places was interdicted by the magistrates, under severe pains and penalties. In 1244, the town, composed chiefly of wooden buildings, according to the custom of the times, was totally consumed by fire. That this hapjicned not by accident, but by wilful design, seems evident, as in the same night Stirling, Roxburgh, Lanark, Perth, Rbrfar, Montrose, and Aberdeen shared the same fate. In 1598, almost the whole town was again consumed by fire, owing, it is said, to the carelessness of a maid-servant. Ever since this calamity, a curfew goes through the town at eight o'clock at night during the winter months, when, af\er tolling a bell, a crier repeats a few rude rhymes, alluding to the misfortune, and warning the inhabitants to great- er caution in future. I'his is called " coal and can*]e.'* * There is a most su])erb and costly monument of the chancellor and his lady in the aisle of the church of Haddington, belonging to the Lauderdale family, 24 feet in length, 18 feet in width, and 18 feet high. There are two compartments supported by three black marble pillars, 5 feet high each, with capitals of white alabaster of tho Corinthian order, arched above. In the western compartment are figures of Lord Thirlestane and his lady at full lengthy in white alabaster, close to each other, in a re- cumbent i>osture. i* In the cast compartment of the marble monument referred to in the aible of tho church of Haddington, are figures of the Earl and his Countess, similar to those of in HADDINGTON. 9 III. — Population. By census 1801 the population of the parish amounted to - - 4049 1810, 4870 1821, 5255 1831, 5883 Residing in the town and Nungatc, ... 3751 in villages, ..... 106 in the country, .... 2026 Persons under 15 years of age, - • 2351 or |- between 15 and 30, ... 1506 or | 30 and 50, - . . 1202 or j- '50 and 70, - - - 673 or ^ upwards of 70, - - - 151 or ^V deaf and dumb, ... 2 blind, . - _ « 2 lunatic, - - . . ] • fatuous and imbecile, ... 3 Number of families in the parish, ..... 1045* Average number of marriages in the five years preceding 1833, - 41 of births during the same period, . - 96i*| of deaths for the last seven years, . . 87 Proportion of males and females in 1830, 43 sons, and 43 daughters. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of imperial acres cultivated, ... 9312 never in cultivation, . . 250 capable of being cultivated with a profitable application of capital, . . 357 under wood, ... 1250 in undivided common, - * - Hushandry. — The farms are considerable in size, and the rent is generally paid in grain, at the medium or second fiars of the county. Since the former Statistical Account was drawn up, various and important improvements have taken place in the husbandry of the parish, in a more complete drainage of the soil, the rota- tion of crops, the culture given to the land, the introduction of new species of manure, and of farm implements. Drainage is now both better understood and more extensively practised than at the period referred to. Drains formerly were not made of such depth as to render them efficient. Now they are executed with that at- tention to the nature of the soil which renders them permanently subservient to its amelioration. The rotation of crops was then generally of a scourging nature, as it is called, being for the most part a succession of culmiferous grains, without a due mixture of the leguminous. The land, therefore, was then much less pro- the Chancellor and bis lady. The famous John Duke of Lauderdale, eldest son and heir of the Earl, was bom at Lethington, 26th May 1616. The leaden coffin which contains hb body, and a vase enclosing his bowels, are deposited in a vault in the aisle of the church of Haddington. * Stated in the abstract of returns to Government, 1831, at 1308. 1 HADDINGTONSHIRE. ductive than it is now, when the succulent plants are more exten- sively cultivated, and pasturage more frequently introduoed ; fbr besides its renovating influence on the productiveness of the eartlit the farmer is thus enabled to carry on the operations of his turn at less expense, while it is believed an equal, if not a greater quan* tity of corn is produced than when nearly the whole (arm k kept in tillage. New manures have also been recently introduced) as rape and bone dust, to render the soil more prolific. The former has been successfully applied to clay soils, and the latter to those of a light description. The implements of husbandry have likewise been progressively improved, and a greater variety introduced into farm management Tenantry. — Though the tenantry are remarkable for their intelligence and cultivation — their superior domestic acconuno- daition — and style of living, it may safely be affirmed that in no profession has so little profit of late years been realised from an equal outlay of capital, as in that of the agriculturist, chiefly ow- ing to the high rent of land. Though no expensive course of edu- cation be required in order to attain sufficient skill to conduct the diversified operations of the farm, yet the capital necessary to an advantageous outset has doubled if not tripled within the last forty years. And then the prices of com during the ]ate continentsi war, having risen to an exorbitant height, fanners felt encouraged to ofier a higher rent than the decreased price of com produce has since enabled them to pay, without trenching on their capitaL Several landed proprietors, however, convinced of the necessity of a reduction, have made considerable abatements of rent, and others have consented to an interchange of the terms and conditions of the lease ; substituting a com rent, regulated by the medium fiars of the county, instead of the stipulated sum of money formerly paid. Farm-Servants. — The parish of Haddington being agricultural, • form-servants constitute a considerable proportion of the popula- tion. Being commonly paid in farm produce, and allowed to keep a cow, they are generally considered to be in a more comfortable and thriving condition than any other description of labourers or even than common tradesmen whose wages are paid in money. Farm- servants are mostly married men, and their wages are paid in kind, viz. 9 quarters of oats, — ^2$ quarters of barley, and 1 quarter of pease or beans; a cow kept for them during the year; 750 yards of good well-manured land to crop with potatoes, and one pound or guinea in lieu of about 540 yards of ground which was former- HADDINGTON. 11 ly allowed on which to raise flax for family use. The cottage rent is commonly paid by the wife of the cottager giving twenty days reaping in harvest, or paying the wages of a reaper, which may average between L. 1, and L. 1, 10s. ; for which sum, besides his house, he has a garden attached worth ds. or 10s., and his fuel carried free of expense ; so that what he receives with the cottage is of more value than the shearer's wages. Women and children receive from 6d. to lOd. a-day, according to their ability, but in harvest their wages are regulated by the market. Oatmeal and potatoes form a considerable proportion of the diet of farm-ser- vants. They also use mixed bread, and keep a pig to consume the offal and refuse of the garden. Though in general acquainted with the elementary branches of education — as reading, writing, and arithmetic-r-and amply provided with the means of information in most departments of knowledge, by having access to libraries, parochial and itinerating, they are not much given to reading, nor remarkable for their attainments in general information. Indeed, persons so early at work in the morn- ing, and occupied with the labours of the field through the day, can have little leisure or in general inclination for literary pursuits, when they return to their cottage in the evening, exhausted and weary. Besides, they want the excitement of conversation and discus- sion from frequent intercourse, which give so much interest and impulse to the working-classes in manufacturing districts. In all their cottages, however, is commonly to be found a family Bible ; the catechetical formularies of our church, and some approved po- pular works in Theology. As the farmers have as few inefficient persons on their premises as possible, their servants when old or infirm, either pass the re- mainder of their days with some member of their family, — for in ge- neral they have numerous families, — or they retire to some neigh- bouring village or town, and take such work as they may still feel themselves equal to. Produce. — The average amount and value of gross produce yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Produce of grain, being white crop 'grown on (say) 4800 Scots acres, L. 8 per acre L. 38,400 Potatoes and turnips, 850 Soots acres, at L. 7 per acre, . 5,950 Beans and pease, 525 do. at L. 6 per acre, . . 3,150 215 Scots acres of hay, at L. 5 per acre, . . 1,075 1060 Scots acres in pasture, at L. 2, lOs. per acre, 2,650 Gardens and orchards, . . . 1,000 \^,^«L?lgi^ ^ ^ 1 2 HADDINGTONSHIRE. Fiars. — From time immemorial, it has been the practice of this county to fix, by public authority, the fiar or average prices of wheat, barley, oats, and pease, — these four species of graiu being the staple produce. For this purpose, the Sheriff, about the term of Candlemas, calls before him a considerable number of respectable tenants (fronoi different parts of the county,) and also extensive dealers in grain, who have bought and sold, delivered and received it within the county, from the separation of the preceding crop to the day on which the proof is taken. And having ascertained, upon oath, the price of considerable quantities of each of these four species of grain, he strikes one general average of the whole prices for each species, — next finds the quantity or number of bolls that have fetch- ed a price higher than the general average, and strikes a second average of this quantity. He then finds the quantity that has been sold at a price below his first general average, and strikes a third average also of this quantity. To each of these averages he adds two and a-half per cent., and these three averages, with that addi- tion, form the first, the second, and third fiar prices for the year. The late Sir George B. Hepburn, Bart, took pains to ascertain the reason of two and a-half per cent, being added to the fiar ave- rages, and found that the record of fiars goes as far back as 1627, — that it was some time the practice to strike the fiars twice in the year, at the terms of Candlemas and I^ammas, — that on examin- ing the fiars for twenty-six years, during which they were struck at Candlemas and Lammas, and taking the average of both, which seems to be the fair medium price, it turned out, in point of fact, that the Candlemas, with the addition of two and a-half per cent., was somewhat below the above medium of the double fiars. Candle- mas, on several obvious considerations, is too early a period to take the average price for the whole year, — Whitsunday seems preferable. It may also be stated, that the present mode of striking the fiars has received the sanction of the Supreme Court. On 8th March 1771, the Lords gave judgment, finding, " that the rules by which the Sheriff proceeded seemed well qualified for fixing the price of vic- tual with the greatest accuracy." V. — Parochial Economy. Town of Haddiiigton, — The town of Haddington is pleasantly situated at the foot of the Garleton range of hills on the north, and bounded by the Tyne on the east, which divides it from the popu- lous suburb of Nungate, to which, however, it is joined by a bridge of four arches. The town consists principally of two paral- HADDINGTON. 13 lei streets, running east and west, and a long cross street which bounds one of these and intersects the other nearly at right angles. The high or main parallel street, which is a continuation of the road from Edinburgh, is spacious, and the houses in general regu- lar and handsome. The appearance of the town has of late been greatly improved by the erection of a lofty spire to the town-house, 150 feet in height, by side pavement on the streets^ and gas lights, and by county buildings on a large and elegant scale, for the better accommodation of the Sheriff's court, meetings of the county, and suitable apartments for the public records. The approaches to the town from the west and east are orna- mented by a number of beautiful villas with gardens and nursery grounds adjoining. The church is a venerable Gothic fabric, 210 feet in length, supposed to be of the thirteenth or fourteenth century. Fordun styles it Lucema LaudonitB^ the lamp of Lothian, on account of the beauty of its structure, and because, being lighted at night, it was visible at a great distance. The quire and transept are now in a somewhat dilapidated state ; but the square tower which surmounts the building, and is ninety feet high, is entire. The west- ern part of the cross has been lately fitted up in a superior style, and is used as the parish church. The municipal affairs of the burgh are now managed by a council of twenty-five persons, elected according to the provisions of the Burgh Reform Act, by a constituency of 174, at present qualified to elect, the greater part of whom are also qualified to hold ofiice. The magistrates consist of a provost, three bailies, a treasurer, and dean of guild. The council annually elect a baron bailie over the adjoining village of Nungate, and also one over their dependencies in Gladsmuir, consisting of lands mostly feued from the town. There are nine incorporated trades, having exclusive right to ex- ercise their several crafts within the burgh. The funds of the burgh arise from land, mills, feus, customs, and amount to about L. 1400 a-year. Haddington joins with Jedburgh, Dunbar, Lauder, and North Berwick, in electing a Member of Parliament. There are no manufactures in town, but there are two breweries and two distilleries in the vicinity ; an iron forge and coach-work ; a considerable trade in wool, in tanning and currying leather, in preparing bones and rape cake for manure, and in supplying the 1 14 HADDINOTONSUIBE. neighbouring country And villages with such goods and aitidef of merchandize as they may require. The fairs have gone into desuetude, but there is a good weekly market on Friday, when the several kinds of grain are exposed to sale in bulk for ready money. It is perhaps the laigest wheat market in Scotland. The county courts are held here by the Sheriff every Thuraday during session, and a small debt court every alternate Thursdi^. A Justice of Peace Court also is held on the first Tuesday in every month, except March, May, and August, in which months die court is held on the first Thursday. Ecclesiastical State.* — Haddington is a Presbytery seat, and die meetings of that body are usually held in it The parish church is collegiate. Both ministers have manses and glebes, and of late both stipends have been made nearly equal ; the first chaige hev*' ing eight chalders of barley, eight chalders of oats, and three chalders of wheat, with 1m 10 for communion elements; and the second seventeen chalders of victual, with L. 33, 6s. 8d. money from the town, with L. 10 for communion elements. Besides the Established church there is an Episcopal chapel, a congregation of Old Light Seceders ; two meeting-houses of the United Secession, and an Independent and a Methodist chapeL From the centrical situation of the town, these meetingsdraw a consi- derable proportion of their members from the neighbouring parish- es ; and not a few in the town and its vicinity, warmly attached to the Establishment, are forced from the parish church, through mere want of accommodation, there being seating only for 11299 to a population of nearly 6000. The number of families in the * In the suburb of Nungate ore Uie ruins of St Martin's Chapel, which belonged to the Abbey of Haddington. It appears from the records of the Presbytery of Had- dington, which are extant as far back as a. d. 1592, that the cure of the churehea of Haddington, St Martin's, and Athelstaneford, were served by one clergyman, Mr James Carmichael, from 15&2 to ld02» and prcbehlj for serenu years preceding that period. In 1602, Mr George Grier was ordained minister of St Martin's. He aeems to haTe had no successor. It is bdiered that his chapel was suffered to go into deeiT as St Mary's (the present parish church) was then sufficienUy large to contain both congregations. An Episcopal yisitation was held 16th September 1635, when it was agreed» in, presence of the Bishop of E^nburgh, the Magistrates of Haddinston, and aeraral of the heritors, that a second minister was necessary to the kirk of Haddington, and the year following Mr William Trent was collated to that charge. His stipend con- sisted of L. 600 Soots, all paid by the town out of the revenues of the burgh. The patrona^ of the second charge was claimed by the town ; but. after a suit at law, it was decided in fiivour of the £arl of Haddington, then proprietor of the barony of Byres in the parish, and patron of the first ^rge. There is a fiunous though un- successful pleading of Sir George Biackemde in support of the town's ri^t, pub- lished by him in his q>ecimen ** EloquentisB Forensis Scotiie." 8 HADDINGTON. 15 parish attending the Established church is 8d0; of families at- tending the chapels of Dissenters or Seceders, 186 ; of families attending the Episcopal chapel, 26 ; of Roman Catholic families, 3. Educatioiu — Besides a grammar school for classical learning, a school for English reading, writing, arithmetic, and geography, with a department for mathematics appointed and endowed by the burgh, there is a parochial school supported by the landward he- ritors at the maximum salary. Fees may amount to L. 50 per annum. English reading, 2s. 6d. a quarter, writing do. 3s. 6d., arithmetic, 4s. 6d. The proportion of those who learn reading alone is two-thirds. The class books in use at present are Mr Wood's, and the Scriptures alternately. There are also several schools taught by private individuals. Under the head of education it may be mentioned that there are several Sabbath schools taught by the elders of the Establish- ed church ; each taking charge, as far as practicable, of the young in his own allotted district of the parish. Mechanics Institution. — A mechanics School of Arts was com- menced here so early as 1823, in which lectures in chemistry, in several branches of mechanics, and in physical, moral, and eco- nomic science, have been delivered. The institution is provided with a suitable apparatus, museum, and library. Tyneside Games. — These games, consisting of various gymnastic exercises, as running, leaping, wrestling, &c. &c. have been cele- brated these two years past in Amisfield Park, amid a great con- course of spectators, and under the patronage of the neighbouring noblemen and gentlemen. Societies. — Many societies hold their regular meetings here, as the Agricultural, Horticultural, and the Ancient fraternity of gar- deners of East Lothian. There are also societies for extending the knowledge and influence of religion over the world, as the East Lothian Bible Society, and the Society for Propagating Christianity, with their auxiliaries of a penny a-week, and a Juvenile society of Id. a-week. Various benevolent Societies have been instituted, and are in operation for the aid and relief of sick or indigent members. Late« ly, a Mutual Assurance society has been formed, on the best prin- ciples of calculation, embracing, Ist, a Sickness fund for granting weekly payments during sickness ; 2dly, a deferred Annuity fund for afibrding allowances to members for life after completing sixty 16 HADDINGTONSHIRE. years of age ; 3r%, a Life Assurance fund for affording a sum on the death of members. A Female Society has been for a long time in use, to visit aod afford pecuniary relief to the sick and aged poor, and to minister to their instniction and comfort, by reading the Scriptures, and giv- ing them suitable tracts. There is also a Dispensary for supplying flannel clothing, wine^ and porter, as cases certified by a medical attendant require, ac^ cording to the number or amount of subscriptions of 10s. 6d. or- dered by the subscriber. Poor and Parochial Funds, — Paupers are maintained by legal as- sessment on the valued rent of the landward heritors ; the town of Haddington paying a stipulated proportion out of its own funds or patrimony. Besides weekly collections at the church doors, which, now that an assessment is established, do little more than pay the salaries of the session-clerk, precentor, beadles, and other inci- dents, — the session have L. 300 of mortified money under their management, for behoof of the poor. The late David Gourlay, Esq. bequeathed a field of four acres, with L. 450, and L. 840, ds. 2d. stock, the rent and interest of which he directed to be applied by the parochiiil ministers, as they might deem fit, to aid the industrious poor ; but by no means to relieve the heritors from their legal obligations. The average amount of church collections for the poor is between L. 50 and L. 60 a-year ; — of assessments, about L. 800 ; of legacies, L. 300. Banks, — There are two banks, — branches of the Bank of Scot- land and of the British Linen Company. Savings Bank, — In 1815 a savings bank was established. Those who avail themselves of the benefit of this institution are general- ly mechanics, day-labourers, and serAants. At last settlement with the treasurer in March 1833, there were 133 depositors, and about L. 1000 in deposit. The amount yearly invested is L. 205 : withdrawn, L. 175. Libraries, — There are several valuable libraries worthy of notice, as the Presbytery library for the use of that Reverend body ; a gift from a society of pious individuals in London more than a century ago ; a library bequeathed to the town of Haddington, by the Rev. John Gray, Episcopal minister at Aberlady, with 50 merks a year, to add to it from time to time by the purchase of new books ; a Parish library established from the funds of the late Mr Andrew Begbie, farmer in Barneymains, and a respectable member of session ; a HADDINGTON. 17 Subscription Library, containing about 1000 volumes. Hadding- ton is also the head quarters of Samuel Brown, Esq.'s Itinerating Libraries:* whence they set out and whither they return. * As the introduction of itinerating libraries is a new and cheap means of diffus- ing useful knowledge, especially among those in the humbler walks of life, — and as it appears, from authentic printed reports and memoirs, that much good has already been done by this mode of circulating information, it seems proper to insert a letter from the worthy and benevolent author of the institution (at present chief magistrate of Haddington) to the writer, giving a general view of the origin, progress, and pre- sent state of these institutions : — R£v. AND Drar Sir, HaddUigton^ 5th May 1835. I began the plan of itinerating libraries in East Lothian in 1817, with five divisions of 50 volumes each, and there are now (1835) under my superintendence in this coun- ty, forty -three divisions of 50 volumes, besides about 450 volumes of new and agricul- tural books for the use of the annual subscribers of 5s. ; in all 2600 volumes. The new books are kept at Haddington, Dunbar, and North Berwick, for a few years for the use of subscribers to the above amount, and are afterwards arranged into divisions of 50 volumes, and stationed in the towns and villages of the county for two years, when they are removed and exchanged. The regular removal and supply of new di- visions has excited and kept up such a disposition to read, that in several stations dur- ing the winter months, scarcely a volume is left in the book-case. To persons ac- quainted with the issues from the usual settled libraries of 2600 volumes, and of eighteen years standing, the following statement will appear almost incredible. The issues (by a calculation I made in 1830) of the new books at Haddington to the sub- scribers have been nearly eight and a-half times for every volume. The gratuitous issues at Haddington have been seven and a- half times every volume ; at Gifibrd, Salton, Aberlady, North Berwick, Belhaven, and Spott, they have been seven times every volume ; and the issues of the whole establishment, so far as reported, have been on an average five times every volume. In all cases the librarians give their services gratuitously. Until 1831 , the books were lent gratuitously, the new except- ed ; but the readers made voluntary contributions at the greater number of the sta- tions. In that year the plan was so far altered, that one penny was required for the use of a volume during the first year a library was in the station ; and during the se- cond the books were lent gratuitously. This alteration has considerably increased the funds, while the gratuitous reading during the second year is training the young to a taste for reading. In 1831, with the assistance of the Scottish Missionary So- ciety and several West India proprietors, I sent four divisions to Jamaica, to be un- der the direction of the missionaries of that society. In 1831 and 1834, I received from a few friends of the plan about L. 400, to promote the introduction of libraries into certain specified districts, and 1 have since sent to various parts of Scotland, £ng« land, Ireland, Jamaica, Canada, South Africa, St Petersburgh, ninety divisions con- taining 4500 volumes. They were furnished at cost prices, and to some districts at half the cost price, and those sent to Ireland still lower. They were placed under the superintendence of gentlemen or ladies in the different districts. In 1826, a society was formed in Edinburgh for establishing itinerating libraries in Mid-I^othian, but its exertions had been greatly neutralized by deaths amongst its original members, and various other circumstances. Last year I agreed with the committee to take the superintendence of their libraries, and in Edinburgh, Leith, and the vicinity, there are now twenty-one divisions, besides stations for new books at Buccleuch Place, and Hill Street Academies, and the Young Ladies Seminary, George Street. As I am convinced that the plan is calculated to be extensively useful at a small expense, 1 will be always happy to give any information in my power on the subject to any person who may wish it. 1 am, your\s sincerely, (Signed) Samuxl Brown. To Rev. Dr Lorimer. HADDINGTON. B PARISH OF PRESTONKIRK. PRESBYTERY OF DUNBAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. JAMES THOMSON, MINISTER. THE REV. JOHN THOMSON, ASSISTANT & SUCCESSOR. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The name of this parish was originally, and so early as the twelfth century, Linton, — the name still given to the principal village in the parish, which appears to have been so called from a lynn or waterfall in the river Tyne, at the place where the village is situated. This continued to be its principal name till the Re- formation ; but before that period it was also known by the name of the Halch or Haugh, from the circumstance of the church being situated near a haugh on the banks of the Tyne ; hence it was af- terwards called Prcstonhaugh ; and at a later period it received its present name of Prestonkirk. It is still designated " Prcston- haugh, otherwise called Prestonkirk," in Presentations and other legal writings. Extent and Boundaries. — Its extent is about 4 miles from east to west, and about 7 miles from north to south ; and it consists of about 15 square miles. It is of an irregular figure, stretching out for 2^ miles into a narrow stripe of land to the northward, which is detached from the rest of the parish. It is bounded on the west by the parishes of Haddington and Athelstaneford ; on the north by Dirleton and North Berwick; on the east by Whitekirk and Dunbar ; on the south by Stenton, Whittingham, and Moreham. Topographical Appearances. — The surface is a little varied, but there are no hills or valleys of any considerable extent with the ex- ception of Traprain-Law, a hill situated towards the south boundary of the parish. The extent of this hill is about40 Scotch acres, and it affords excellent pasturage for sheep, but is too steep and precipi- tous for cattle. On the south side it is very nearly perpendicular. A little to the north of this hill is a curious irregular valley of con- siderable depth, and very narrow, in the bottom of which runs a very small rivulet. This valley is considered the most fertile part PRESTONKIRK. 19 of the farm in which it is situated, except near the river, where there are some rocks. The parish is remarkable for the healthiness of its inhabitants, having seldom been visited by any epidemic disorder. Hydrography. — The only river in the parish is the Tyne, run- ning from west to east, and dividing the parish nearly in the centre. It has its rise ten miles above Haddington, and falls into the sea about three miles north-west from Dunbar. The course is little varied, except at the village of Linton, where it falls over a con- siderable height of claystone rocks, forming the lynn from which the village derives its name. These rocks are mentioned in the former Statistical Account as supposed to obstruct the progress of salmon up the river. Since that period, a passage has been open- ed for them, but without the desired effect, few or no fish having ever been found farther up, while the levelling of the rocks has materially hurt the beauty of the waterfall, which is indeed entire- ly destroyed, except' in the time of a flood. Geology and Mineralogy. — In this parish there are only three species of rocks found, — uncovered claystone, clinkstone, and lime- stone. Of these, by far the most widely diffused is claystone. It occurs in an obscurely basaltic form at many difierent places in the parish, as, on the Smeaton estate, and on the Phantassie estate, to the westward of the village of Linton ; it also forms the lynn above-* mentioned. It is of a dark purplish brown colour, often porphy- ritic, containing crystals of felspar, and in general deeply impreg- nated with iron. The rock next in the frequency of its occurrence is clinkstone. This forms the whole of Traprain-Law, and of the rocks which are quarried close by the turnpike road at Pencraig, about a mile and a quarter to the west of Linton. Its structure is slaty, with seams running across the slates dividing it into imper- fect columns. Its colour is generally a light mottled brown, sometimes porphyritic. At one part of Traprain-Law it has a bluish gray tint, greatly resembling greenstone, to which rock it also shows an approach at the summit, where it contains grains of hornblende. At Pencraig it contains veins of a yellow jasper, sus- ceptible of a good polish, and also veins of heavy spar : in this it resembles the clinkstone of the Garleton hills, a few miles to the westward. Limestone occurs along the ridge extending eastward from Traprain-Law ; its colour is mostly a brownish red, and it contains a great quantity of flinty matter disposed in veins. Its strata are nearly horizontal, and are covered with a deep formation 20 HADDINGTONSHIRE. of »i calcfireous marl, which is sometimes employed for agricultural purposes instead of lime. These three rocks are the only ones occurring in this parish, — j)robahly partly traversing and partly resting on the red sandstone, which forms the regular strata of the district, resting on the transition rocks of I^ammermoor, and covered by the coal formation of Mid- Lothian. The soil of the parish is, for the most part, near the river, of a sandy or gravelly nature. To the north of this it becomes gra- dually of a stronger nature, till it ends in a very stiff clay; and, far- ther north iigain it becomes lighter. To the south it is calcareous.* Zoology. — Under this head, it may be mentioned that our birds of prey are, for the most part, confined to the kestril (Falco tinnun^ cuius), the ringtail (F, cyaneus), and the sparrowhawk (JF. ni«t»), and two species of owls. We have no grouse of any kind, but partridges and pheasants are numerous. In severe winters the Bohemian chatterer (Garrulus Bohemicus) has once or twice been seen. The kingfisher once frequented the river, but is now ex- tinct. Perhaps the sand martin {Hirundo riparia) is more numerous than in most places. In autumn various sea birds, as the gull ge- nus, particularly XheLarus canus, and the cormorant and duck tribe, visit us. The latter, especially the common wild duck and the widgeon, frequent the mouth of the river in flocks of many hundreds every winter. Herons are common, and breed in the neighbour- ing parish of Whitekirk. The Tyne contains very large trout, eels, flounders, and a good many small salmon, with several minute species. From our in- land situation, our invertebrate animals are almost wholly confined to insects. Concerning these there is little particularly worthy of notice. The Death's- Head Sphinx (Sphinx atropos) was found very frequently in 1825 in the pupa state in potato fields. The Puss Moth (Cerura vinula) is also common. The damage done to wheat crops of late years by the Cecidomyia triiia\ or wheat-fly, is well known. The Stomoxys calcitrans, or common stinging-fly, which in hot weather persecutes men and beasts with its painful bite, is more numerous in this district than in most parts of Scotland. Botany. — Owing to the highly cultivated state of this district, it affords a still less interesting field to the botanist than to the zoologist There are no natural woods in the parish, but a good * It may here be remarked, that the geognostical descriptive language used bj the authors of the Statistical lieports is that introduced many years ago by Proressor Jameson, and which now, notwithstanding the violent opposition it met with, is uni- versally adopted by British geologists. PRESTONRIRK. 21 many very fine trees, particularly near the church, and the vil- lage of Preston. There are no rare plants, unless the following: Geranium sanguineum^ Arenaria rermz, Viola ItUea, Dianthtis deU toidesj Sedum Telephium^ which grow on Traprain-Law ; the Py- rola minor^ and Hypericum ptdchrum^ occur on Smeaton grounds. IL — Civil History.' Eminent Men. — Two of the most eminent agriculturists of East Lothian lived and died in this parish, viz. George Rennie, Esq. of Phantassie, and Robert Brown, Esq. tenant of Markle. The for- mer died in 1828, the latter in 1831. Both have long been ce- lebrated for their exertions in the improvement of the husbandry of this country. — The late John Rennie, Esq. long an eminent engineer in London, and brother to George Rennie, Esq. was also born and brought up in this parish. — Mr Andrew Meikle, the in- ventor of the thrashing machine, lived for a considerable time, and died here. Though his claims as the inventor of the thrashing machine have been disputed, there can be no doubt that he brought , the machine to its present state of perfection, by inventing the fixed beaters or skutchers now in universal use, and from want of which all previous inventions had proved useless. A tombstone erected to his memory in the churchyard of Prestonkirk testifies this fact. Ldrnd-owners. — There are six principal heritors, — the Trustees • of the late George Rennie of Phantassie; Miss Dalrymple of Hailes ; the Earl of Wemyss ; Sir Alexander Hope ; Sir David Kinloch ; and Sir Thomas Buchan Hepburn, and four smaller pro- prietors. Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers began in 1663, and are complete, — that is, none of the volumes are wanting ; but the number of names registered varies at difierent periods. Of late years almost every birth in the parish has been regularly entered. Antiquities. — There is muentioned \n the Saxon annals a place of worship under the name of Ecc S. Baldridi, which stood on the site of the present church so far back as 1000 years ago. The principal ruin in the parish is Hailes Castle, famous for once hav- ing been the temporary residence of Queen Mary when carried off by the Earl of Bothwell, then possessor of the castle. It is now rapidly going to decay, though part of it is still used as a granary. It is now the property of Miss Dalrymple of Hailes. The only pother ruin in the parish is an old religious house on the farm of Markle, the property of Sir David Kinloch of Gilmerton. It ap- pears that a monastery was early established here, and continued till the Reformation ; but it is testi^ed in the Parliamentary ^t^^-^^^^^^^ 22 HADDINGTONSHIRE. that, in 160G, a considerable part of the land originally belonging to the monastery was resumed by the Crown, and annexed to the Chapel Royal of Stirling. That the whole lands were not resumed is manifest, because the park in which the ruin is situated, and an- other adjoining to it, still called the Provost's Park, have for more than a century and a half belonged to the proprietors of the barony ( See Farmers' Magazine for March 1811.) Verj' little is known about this religious establishment, but from the present state of the building, which is very ruinous, it seems to have been of consider- able extent, but of very rude workmanship. There are several rude stones of considerable height erected in different parts of the county, seemingly intended to mark the burial places of some chief or officer who had fallen in battle, one of which exists in the pa- rish, a little to the west of the village of Linton. Tombs, or stone coffins, have been found by the ploughmen in several places, mark- ing the site of a field of battle. Modern Buildiru/s. — Smeaton House, the residence of Sir Tho- mas Hepburn, is the only mansion house in the parish. There is indeed one at Beanston, belonging to the Earl of Wemyss, but it has been uninhabited for several years, and will soqh be in ruins. There are in the parish four oatmeal and barley mills, one flour mill, one exclusively for barley, and one connected with a distillery. The distillery employs 50 men, is capable of distilling 500,000 gallons per annum, and pays L. 112,000 of duty. HI. — Population. In 1755, the amount of the population was 1318 i792, . . was only, 1176 1811, .... 1471 1821, . . . 1812 1831, . , , 1765 The causes of the diminution which has taken place since 1821 are probably these ; 1*^, In some farms where new leases have been granted in that period, several old houses have been pulled down which were not required to afford labourers for the farms, while in some instances two or more farms have been united, and con- sequently the number of inhabitants diminished. 2^, In 1821, there was an academy kept by the Dissenting clergyman, which has since been given up, causing a diminution of twelve or fifteen. ' .The {K>pulation in the village and the country part of the parish is agfoBftiw; Village of Linton, 715 Preston, 48 Country part, 1002 Total, - 176.) PRESTONKIRK. 23 The yearly average for the last seven years of births, ... SS of deaths, - . 23 of marriages, . 15 The average number of persons under 15 years of age, - - 720 betwixt 15 and 90, ... 451 betwixt 30 and 50, - - - 368 betwixt 50 and 70, ... 186 upwards of 70, - - - 50 The number of unmarried men upwards of 50 years of age, • 32 women upwards of 45, of whom 44 ore widows, 80 The average number of persons in each family nearly* . . 5 The number of insane persons, .... 8 of blind, - - • - 3 of deaf and dumb, - • - 2 The number of &milies in the parish, - .... . 407 chiefly employed in agriculturet - - 291 in trade, maniUkcture, or handicraft, 85 There is only one family of independent fortune at present re- siding in the parish, viz. Sir Thomas Hepburn of Smeaton. The number of proprietors of land worth upwards of L, 50 yearly is six or seven. Character of the People. — The farm-servants in East Lothian enjoy the comforts of society in a greater degree than persons in the same rank of life in any other part of the country. They are, for the most part, allowed a cow's grass and potato land, and have an opportunity of keeping a pig, and, in some instances, poultry, which enables them to keep their families in a state of comfort su- perior to that of most of the labouring classes elsewhere, and they are in general quite contented with their situation and circumstances. But work of all kinds is more difficult to be had than formerly, which sometimes presses hard upon those who are employed upon days' wages. They are in general exemplary in their moral cha- racter, there being no instance within the memory of the writer of this of any person connected with the parish having been con- victed of any crime before the Justiciary Court. They are in general attentive enough to the outward duties of religion, though it must be confessed there is far less of the knowledge and the spirit of it than is to be desired and is to be found in some other districts : but there is no reason to mark any late declension in this respect ; perhaps rather, an improvement is gradually taking place. IV. — Industry, Agriculture. — The number of acres in the parish, Imperial measure, is ^ - « ' 6270 The number of acres constantly in pasture, about • .'.:'« 200 There is no land capable of being cultivated which has not been * The number of children is 2 2-3ds. 24 HADDINfiTONSHIRE. SO. There is no natural wood, and the extent of land under plant- ed wood is very limited. Rent of Land.-The average rent of arable land is about L. 2, 28. per Scotch acre. There is no pasture ever let at so much per ox ; but the average rent is from L. 3 to L. 5 per Scotch acre. Live-StocL — The breed of cattle to which most attention is now paid is the short-horned, introduced into East Lothian about ten years ago by Mr John Kennie Junior, of Phantassie. The Lei- cester and Cheviot breeds of sheep are principally propagated, but many of the black-faced species also are yearly fattened on turnips. Husbandry. — The general character of husbandry pursued is of the most improved kind. Turnips are cultivated to a considerable extent in drills, and consumed on the ground by sheep, and a por^ tion of them by cattle in the straw yard. Drilled white crops are also common upon dry soils. The usual rotation of crops is either, Yst^ oats ; 2^, beans ; «3^/, wheat ; 4M, fallow x)r turnips ; 5/A, wheat or barley ; 6^A, grass ; or Ist^ oats; 2(/, turnips ; 3c/, wheat sown in spring, or barley ; 4/A, grass. The last rotation is only used on light soils. Tlie peculiar features of the agriculture in this parish and county, are, \stj The early ploughing of stubble in winter. 2^/, The tho- rough eradication of weeds, and pulverizing of the soil in fallow or before the sowing of turnips. 3^, The careful extraction of annual weeds from amongst the growing corn ; and lastly, never in ordinary circumstances having two white crops in succession. The only im- provement which can be suggested would be to have the land long- er in grass, and to sow wheat less frequently. But the high rents render the former of these impracticable for tenants. The latter is, however, frequently adopted. There is no waste land in the parish capable of cultivation. Draining is carried on to a great extent Irrigation has never been practised. Bruised bones, rape dust, and other manures, not the produce of the farm, are now more or less used by almost every farmer. The general duration of leases is nineteen years. There are still two liferent leases in this parish, which have proved highly detrimental to the interest of the landlord, without communicating any corresponding advantage to. the tenant. The state of farm buildings is, with a few exceptions, good. A considerable improvement has taken place both in them, and in en- closures of late years. Steam-engines have been erected on three farms in the parish, for the purpose of driving thrashing machines. 4^00 1200 4500 250 .33450 "o PRE&TONKIRK. 25 The first, which was erected seven years ago, is a low pressure ; and the other two are high pressure ones. The principal improvements since the date of the last Statisti- cal Account are the cultivation of a large extent of common, and the much better state in which the roads are now kept. Fisheries. — There is a small salmon fishing in the river Tyne, but the part connected with the parish is so insignificant as to ren- der it not worth mentioning. The greater number are caught at the mouth of the river, in the parish of Whitekirk. It is rented, however, by a person residing in this parish ; but it is generally believed to be scarcely sufficient to pay any rent, as it is attended with considerable labour, and expense of time. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish is computed to be nearly as follows : Produce of grain of all kinds, wheat, oats, barley, beans, - L. 23000 Potatoes, turnips, mangel wurzel, &c. Hay, . .... Land in pasture, at from L. 3 to L 5. per acre Scotch, Gardens and orchards, .... Total yearly value of raw produce. Rental, L. 10500. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — There is a post-office at Linton, where letters are delivered from Edinburgh every day, and the mail to Edinburgh from London passes daily. The great Lon- don road passes through the middle of the parish ; its extent is four miles ; on which at present five public fsMches travel daily, — the London mail, one stage coach to London, one to Berwick-upon- Tweed, and two to Dunbar, all from Edinburgh. There is only one ^dge, which is over the river Tyne, in the line of the great n road) near the village of Linton ; it is in good repair, but rrow, and awkwardly situated for carriages. lesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church is upon whole convenient. It is only half a-mile from the eastern ex- imity of the parish, but it is at an equal distance from the other tremities ; its greatest distance from any part being from three to {bur miles. It was built in 1770, and enlarged in 1824 to the ex- tent of 200 sittings. The whole number which it can contain now is about 800. The whole of the sittings were originally free, and divided among the heritors ; thus excluding all the inhabitants of the village, which constitutes nearly one-half of the population. But the heritors agreed to give up so many sittings for the use of the villagers, fifty of which are let for the sum of Is. each per 26 HADDINGTONSHIRE. annum, which goes to the poors' funds. The manse was biiilt in 1795, and has never been repaired. The glebe, including garden and site of the manse and offices, consists of about 8 Scotch acres ; it may be computed to be of the value of L. 5 per acre. The whole stipend is 18 chalders, with the usual allowance for com- munion elements. There is one Dissenting chapel in the parish, in connection with the United Associate Synod, the minister of which is paid from funds arising from the seat rents and collections among the members of the congregation. His stipend is L. 90. There is no Episcopalian chapel in the parish. The number of famihes attending; the Established church is 360. The number at- tending the meeting-house, belonging to this parish, is 47. Divine service in good weather is well attended in both places of wor- ship. The average number of communicants in the Established church is 610. There is no society for religious purposes at pre- sent connected with this parish alone, but there are collections in the church annually for different relicrious and charitable institu- tions, which amount on an average to L. 15. Education. — Total number of schools in the parish, 5 ; paro- chial schools, 2; one of which is a female school upheld by the heritors. Private unendowed schools, 2, of which one is female; subscription school, 1. In the parish and subscription schools all the ordinary branches are taught, in the private male school the learned languages are not taught. Besides the above-men- tioned scliools, there was another female school, in which the higher branches of female education were taught; but the numbers attending it were very limited. The salary of the parochial school- master is the maximum ; that of the parochial schoolmistress is L. 3, with a house and school-room ; the school fees of the for- mer amount to L.40 per annum; the amount of the school fees of the private schoolmaster will be nearly the same ; the master of the subscription school has a salary of L. 40, and a free school- house. The parochial schoolmaster has all the legal accommoda- tions. There is a regulation made by the heritors of this parish, that no hind (or farm-servant) shall pay more than 10s. per quarter, whatever number of children he may have attending the school. The present parish schoolmaster was also bound by the heritors when they granted the last augmentation of his salary, to keep an assist- ant, who must be approved of by the minister and heritors. All persons in the parish of a proper age can read, and, excepting PRESTONKIRK. 27 perhaps a few old people, all can write. The attendance of the young at school, however, is irregular, — as they are withdrawn at certain seasons of the year, when their labour is required in the fields, and accordingly their education is not so perfect as it should be. The schools are all in the village of Linton, from which there is no part of the parish so distant as to prevent attendance upon the schools. Libraries. — There is one subscription library in the parish and a branch of the East- Lothian itinerating libraries. Charitable Institutions. — There are three Friendly Societies in the parish, one of very old standing and nearly inefficient, consist- ing of very few members ; one is a yearly society, to which the members pay 6d. per week, from which a certain sum is paid out in case of sickness, according to circumstances, and the balance is divided at the end of the year ; the other is not well regulated, and does not seem likely to endure for any length of time. Savings Banks. — There was once one in the parish, but it was given up, because it did not answer the purpose for which it was intended ; those who had their money in it being solely from among a description of people who were able to put their money in ordinary banks, and who availed themselves of the saving bank merely on account of the higher rate of interest given in it. The farm-servants, receiving their wages in victual, and consequently having little money in their hands, renders saving banks of com- paratively little use in this county. The nearest is in Haddington. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 32, receiving the average sum of 5s. each per month, or L. 3 per year ; none receive more than 8s. per month, except in cases of lunacy. There is an annual assessment of about L. 120 ; the amount of church collections is only L. 15 yearly. There are some instances of a disposition among the poor to re- frain from seeking parochial relief as long as they can. But in no instance are the session the first movers in placing any one on the poors' roll, and there are few who are fit applicants who do not apply ; at the same time, instances of persons applying who are not entitled are very rare, and we have a few noble instances of aged and infirm persons supporting themselves upon the savings of their youth, even after bringing up large families. One old woman died last winter up- wards of eighty years of age, who was left a widow with two daugh- ters in early life, who lived comfortably, and never applied to the session or received aid of any kind. Injis and Alehouses. — There is only one house entitled to the 28 HADDINGTONSHIRE. appellation of an inn in Linton ; besides which there are nine ale- houses in Linton, and one in Preston. Their very mischievous effect on the morals of the people, especially of young unmarried men, cannot be questioned. FueL — The fuel universally used is coals, and whatever brush- wood csence from his charge; it being understood that, after the term of Whitsunday, he was to resign his charge ; and this he did at a meeting of Px^&Vs>jV.«t'^\v(^^ ^x Athebtaneford, 7th June 1757. % 4"^ HADDINGTONSIURK. during bis lifetime, and he died suddenly, when pursuing his usual ^ exercise, having just completed the seventieth year of his age. His dust rests with that of his ancestors in Athelstaneford church-yard, where a marble monument is erected to his memory. " By simpli- fying the comforts of life, he rose to private independence," as one has said of him, and left considerable property to his relatives. For some years before his death, he kept a riding-horse, and lived more in the style of a country gentleman than of an artist. About that time his professional labours did not exceed one likeness in the twelvemonths, and its price was one hundred guineas. The time and labour he bestowed on his likenesses were great beyond what can be expressed. Had he painted for gain, he might have left a large fortune ; but his great object in painting seemed ta be to please his own fine taste. Parochial Jlcr/isters. — The parochial registers of this parish have been kept correctly since the beginning of last century, and are generally written in a fair hand. The register before 1688 is imperfect. The record of the Presbytery of Haddington com- mences at the first establishment of Presbytery after the period of the Reformation, is entire, and appears to have been correctly kept. Modern Buildings, — The only modem building of large dimen- sion in this parish is the mansion house of Sir David Kinloch, Ba- ronet, of Gilmerton. An old baronial mansion of large extent stands in this parish, formerly the residence of the Earls of Winton. Part of it is still inhabited, but the greater part is in ruins. It had been built in the form of a square : an excellent garden and fine bowling green are attached. The house had been defended by a strong wall, and on the north side also by a deep moat. George Earl of Winton in large gilt letters is still legible in the ceiling of the principal room. Ancient Families, — Of the ancient families of distinction in Elast Lothian, whose ancestors swore fealty to Edward I. of England at Berwick a. d. 1296, there does not appear to be any now existing, and in possession of the lands they then held, except Brown of Colestone, the Ijist branch of which family is the Right Honourable Christian Brown, Countess of Dalhousie. It is perhaps not unworthy of notice, that the lands of East For- ton, after passing into various families, are again in the possession ofalincaldesceudant of the renowned Sir Simon Frazer of Peebles- shire, whose eldest dauorliter was married to the ancestor of the ATHELSTANEFORD. 49 Marquis of Tweeddale, and brought with her a large accession of property. The present proprietor of the estate of East Forton, Sir Francis Walker Drummond of Hawthornden, Bart., being a lineal descendant of the noble house of Tweeddale, has the blood of Sir Simon Frazer flowing in his veins. Antiquities. — When the road-man was opening a new quarry three years ago for metal to the roads, in the spot where Athel- stan is said to have been buried, he and his men being engaged re- moving the stratum of earth which covered the rock, found a stone coffin containing the remains of a human body in a very decayed state. Part of the cranium was not decomposed ; a considerable part of the under jaw remained, and the enamel on the teeth was surprisingly white, considering the length of time the body had been buried. The coffin was but two and a-half feet below the surface. It was formed of five handsome freestones,— one at each side of the body, one at the head, another at the feet, placed at right angles, and one for a covering. The stones forming the coffin had been cemented together with a fine paste made apparently of clay, to prevent the admission of the external air. A cavity had been cut in the surface of the hard rock, six feet two inches in length, thirty inches in breadth, and four in depth, in which the body had been laid, and where it was foimd« The stones that formed the coffin rested on the sides of the cavity on a bed of fine clay. Nothing was found in the coffin but what has been stated. An intelligent mason examined the stones, and was of the opinion that no free- stone of the same quality as that which formed the coffin has hitherto been found nearer to Athelstaneford than at the distance of eight miles. The under jaw and coffin of the warrior are in the posses- sion of Sir David Kinloch, the proprietor of the estate of Athel- staneford. History records that the lands on which the battle of Athelstane- ford was fought and won, were given by the King of the Scots to the Culdee Priory of St Andrews, as an acknowledgment of gra- titude to Heaven for the victory obtained. At the Reformation, when monkish institutions were abolished in Scotland, these iands were conferred on the Chapel Royal of Holyroodhouse, witib which they are still connected, and form a considerable part of fStSsi income drawn by tbe present dean or deans of that venerable &tae. The late Sir David Kinloch^ Bart of Gilmerton, obtained from the Crown a perpetual lease of these lands at the fo\W^Yw^T^^s>x.\ — wheat, 46 bolls, Linlithgow measure ^WxVe^^ bW*^*?* ^JsXXftS^^'?*^ HilDD/NGTON. I> * 50 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 85 bolls ditto. Kain fowls : 1 dozen of bens, 2 dozen of poultry or cbickens. Tbe rent is doubled toi^ one year at every singular succession of the family of Kinloch of Gilmerton. On the barony of Drem are the remains of a Pictish town, si- tuated on the top of a low hill, of a conical form, which is almost level on the summit, and which contains about two acres of land. The houses, the foundations of which are still obvious, had been built round the sides of the summit in regular rows, and the greater part in a conical form. In the centre are the foundations of ob- long houses of larger dimensions. The conical houses are gene- rally twelve feet in diameter within the walls. The town had been strongly fortified, — first by a deep circumvallation, and higher up the sides of the hill by three ramparts quite perpendicular ; from the top of the one rampart to the bottom of the higher there is a level space of eighteen feet, from whence the inhabitants could defend themselves with great advantage from their assailants. On the west side of the hill, looking towards Edinburgh, are three deep trenches in succession, before coming to the first circumvallation. These out-works appear to have been raised on account of a small Roman station in that direction, about half a-mile from the Pictish town ; for several Roman implements have been found there, and two years ago a large urn of superior workmanship, containing cal- cined bones, was found in the same spot. The name of the farm- stead is commonly called Captain- Head, which is evidently a cor- ruption for Camptown Head. The urn is in the possession of Mr David Skirving, farmer, of Camptown Head. The lands belong to the Earl of Hopetoun. 1 1 1. — Population . The population of this parish amounted at last census to 931 ; at present it amounts to 951. Of these, twelve are Dissenters, but during the last thirty years the number of Dissenters have sel- dom exceeded one for every hundred of the inhabitants. The na- tive inhabitants of the parish are sober, industrious, and well be- haved : The strangers amongst us are less so, with some excep* tions. The number of families in the parish is . . . 212 chiefly employed in agriculture^ . . J 92 in trade, manufacture^ or handicraft^ 46 There is but one family of independent fortune resident in this parish, and the whole lands belong to the following persons of dis- tinction. Sir David Kinloch, Bart. 18 ploughgates ; Earl of Hope- toun, 1 3 ditto; Earl of Wemyss, 7 ditto; Sir Francis W. Drummond, / ATHELSTANEFORD. 5 1 Bart of Hawthorndeu, 1 1 ditto ; Sir Alexander Hope, 6 ditto ; Lord Elibank, 3 ditto ; Miss Grant of Congalton, 2 ditto. IV. — Industry. Agriculture,' — This parish consists of somewhat more than 4000 acres, 3750 of which are arable. The remainder is planted with wood, except 40 acres of hill pasturage. The writer of this account has not been able to ascertain the value of the whole agricultural produce of this parish ; but he can state that the quantity of wheat produced in it annually is about 4000 quarters. V. — Parochial Economy. _ J Ecclesiastical State. — The old church of Athelstaneford was / built about the middle of the twelfth century by Ada, daughter of the Earl of Warenne and Surrey, and wife of Henry Prince of Scotland. She built and endowed an Abbey in the neighbour- hood of Haddington, and gave the church of Athelstaneford to that religious establishment, to be served by its monks. She survived her husband twenty-six years, and like her father-in-law. King David I., left various proofs of her attachment to the church. She died, according to Lord Hailes, a. d. 1178, and in the 13th year of the reign of her son William, surnamed the Lion.* The church she built here, part of which is still standing, continued the parish church until the year 1780, when a more suitable one was built It is not inconveniently situated for the inhabitants, and con- tains about 500 sittings. The manse was built about the same time, and affords sufficient accommodation for the minister's family. The glebe land consists of five acres, and is worth L. 15 per annum. The stipend is fifteen chalders of victual, consisting of 116 bolls of barley, 116 bolls of oats, and 8 bolls of wheat, Linlithgow mea- sure, payable according to the highest fiar prices of this county. When the present minister obtained an augmentation of his sti- pend a number of years ago, he asked of the Court a larger pro- portion of wheat, that being the kind of grain chiefly raised in this parish, and as there is a considerable portion of tithe wheat still unappropriated; but the Judges, with the exception of the late Lord Meadowbank, refused to grant the request. The minister receives also an annuity of L. 1, 8s. left by the late Mrs Hepburn of Monk Rig, who died about 180 years ago. When the last Statistical Account of this parish was published, • The barony of Athelstaneford was part of Ada's dowcnj U.^^^.. 02 11ADDIN(>T0NSH1RE. tli<; iiuii)l>er of l)is>cnter5 is stated to have been thirty-four. Dis- -i'nt«.T«. arc not iiiimerous within the bounds of this Presbytery, ex- cept ill those parishes where the inhabitants cannot 6nd accommo- dation in the parochial churches. The people in general are re- guhir ill their attendance on Divine ordinances, and decent in their deportment. The number of communicants is about 385, and sometimes 400. Kdncation, — There are three schools in this parish. The pa- rochial school is in the village of Athelstaneford, and the school- master has received a hberal education. The branches taught at this school are English, writing, arithmetic, geography, and the Lat in and PVcncii languages. The schoolmaster's salarj' is the maxi- mum ; he is well accommodated with a house and garden, and the school room is one of the best within the county. The school fees are fixed at a low rate, and the number of scholars during winter and spring are between eighty and ninety, and they are in summer about seventy. Tiiere is another school in this village established by the heri- tors for girls, taught by a woman, who instructs them in the first principles of the English language, and in needle-work. The number of young i>ersons who attend this school is about twenty. Tlie Earls of Hopctoun have, for more than a century past, established a school on their lands in this parish, at which the common branches of education are taught. The schoolmaster has about L. 10 of salary, and a house and garden ; and the number of his scholars is genendly thirty-five in summer, and sixty during the winter. In all these schools the principles of the Christian religion are carefully attended to. Lord Hopetoun's schoolmaster has been wont to keep a Sunday school in that part of the parish where he is settled, and a school of the same kind is kept in the village of Athelstaneford. The people of this parish give their children the common branches of education taught at the parochial school ; and although there be an influx of strangers at everj' Whitsuntide, yet the mi- nister is not aware of any in this parish above six years old but have been taught to read. The kirk-session pay for the education of oq)hans, and a benevolent lady who resides in this parish pays for the education of those whose parents are in mean circumstances. Libraries. — A parochial library was established here about thirty years ago; and the people are also well supplied with Mr Samuel ATHELSTANEFORD. 53 Brown's Itinerating libraries, presently consisting of 2600 volumes, in forty three divisions, each division remaining a year at one sta* tion, so that there is no want of books to thein who are disposed to read. Poor and Parochial Funds. — There never had been any assess- ment for the ordinary poor of this parish until a few months ago. The receipt of money from the weekly collections at the church doors, what is received for the use of a hearse, under the manage- ment of the kirk-session, and for mortcloths, have, with some sav- ings previous to 1770, been adequate to supply the wants of the parochial poor. The people are regular in attending the church, and liberal, according to their circumstances, in giving to the poor ; and it is for these reasons chiefly, that assessments for the support of the poor had not been found necessary in this parish until 1835. The kirk-session disburse to the parochial poor about L. 130 an- nually. Thirty years ago, when the present incumbent was settled here, the number of poor on the roll was almost the same as at present, but the monthly allowance to each is about one-third more now than it was then. Miscellaneous Observations. At the time the last Statistical Account was published, the farms in this parish were too small, and a number of the farmers had not sufficient capital to carry on improvements. Grazing was not then practised to any considerable extent, and this prevented a proper rotation of crops. A large portion of the land was wet, and no proper means had been taken to lay it dry. The feeding of sheep and cattle on turnip was not then fiiuch practised, a great part of the land being unfit for that kind of crop. An improved mode of drainage has now greatly altered and ameliorated the soil ; so much so, that a large extent of land in this parish formerly unfit for tur- nips, now bears weighty crops of that valuable root The present farmers are intelligent and skilful in the line of their profession, and the far greater part of them are doing every thing that wisdom joined with prudence can suggest for the im- provement of their possessions. Nine-tenths of the land of this county being under entail, the improvements in agriculture which East Lothian exhibits, have arisen not so much from encourage- ment given by the landlords, as from the spirit and enterprise of the farmers. Drainage, however, when well executed, being deemed a permanent improvement, many of the landlords now show a readiness to bear a fair proportion of the exijense qC ^-^ 54 HADDINGTONSHIRE. undertaking. Drainage, which ought to be one of the first im- provements in agriculture, is now the crowning work in that de- partment in this district of the country ; and whilst it does honour to the proprietors and possessors of the soil, it is, as has been ob- served, diffusing an increase of health and comfort among the in- habitants. The working classes in this parish are sober and industrious, and generally well behaved ; they are lodged in comfortable houses, and their gains are equal to the maintenance of themselves and the edu- cation of their children. They are generally well qualified to per- form the kind of work they undertake, and the male part display con- siderable knowledge and skill in rural affairs. To these topics, however, their knowledge is in a great measure confined. On the subjects of sacred history and religion their knowledge is very li- mited, particularly those of them who are somewhat advanced in years, and this ignorance arises from the want of religious instruc- tion in youth. But the younger part of this class of the popula- tion is better educated and more intelligent than the aged, and the rising generation promises progressive improvement. This change is to be ascribed to a better educated and more efficient class of parochial teachers. It has been often found that a marked diffe- rence exists between the inhabitants of those parishes where the clergymen visit and catechise their parishioners annually, and where the youth have the benefit of Sunday schools, and the people of other parishes, where these advantages are not enjoyed. An in- telligent, moral, and religious population, is an objecfso pleasing to a rightly constituted mind, and so advantageous to the interests of all, that it may well excite the ministers of the Gospel and in- structors of youth, to increased diligence in their vocations, as they must be aware that their perseverance will be followed with the happiest results. . May 1835. PARISH OF STENTON. PRESBYTERY OF DUNBAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. D. LOGAN, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name of the parish is of Saxon derivation; it was originally Stanton, Scotic^ Stanetoun. The parish was supposed by some to have been so called from parts of the adjacent lands abounding in small stones, but more- likely from the proximity of an excellent freestone quarry, and the cottages in the village being built of that material, earlier than those in the surrounding neigh- bourhood. Extent. — The low and populous part of the parish extends to about 3^ miles from north to south, and to about 3 from east to west It is bounded on the north by parts of the parishes of Prestonkirk and Dunbar; on the east by Spott; and on the west by Whittingham, A portion formerly insulated from the rest stretches into the Lammermoor, to the distance of about 8 miles from the church, and is bounded on the south by the Whitewater, and Berwickshire. By the late division of the Dunbar common, however, and the allotment of portions thereof to the landed pro- prietors in the parish, the line to the southern extremity is now nearly unbroken, and this line includes Spartledown, the highest peak on the Lammermoor range, at the base of which on the south, points of the parishes of Spott, Cranshaws, Longformacus, and Whittingham, come so near to that of Stenton, that inhabitants of each parish might almost hold converse with one another from their respective parishes. The height of the parish above the level of the sea is about 180 - feet The climate is salubrious, and before the woods were pro- tected, Pressmennan, where there is still an old mansion once in- habited by a branch of the Beil family, used to be a place of resort to invalids for goat's whey. Instances of great longevity are not uncommon here. Within these few years, one person died having 5G HADDINGTONSHIRE. very nearly completed her hundredth year, and two considerably above 90 in the immediate neighbourhood. Hydrography. — Springs abound in many parts of the parish, and the water is generally very cool, and of the best quality. There is one near the village called the Rude-well, covered by a circular stone building, surmounted by the form of a cardinal's hat, and there is a legend that the tenure of the Beil estate depends upon the keeping on of this hat. Into a deep ravine there issues from the base of a high hill a most magnificent spring of the purest water. About the year 1819, William H. Nisbet, Esq. built a breast-work, on the east, where two opposing hills begin to slant down into more level ground. A most beautiful lake, about two miles in circumference, was here- by formed. Trout were brought from Lochleven, at considerable trouble and expense. The experiment succeeded, and along with tench and carp, they are now caught in abundance and great per- fection. As the hills surrounding the lake are undulating and finely wooded, the scenery has been compared to parts of the Rhine. A Mr Hamilton, cadet from the Belhaven family, and a Lord of Session, took the title of Lord Pressmennan, from this place. So attractive is the scenery in summer, that party excursions to sail on the lake, dine under the shady tree, and drink from the living spring, are frequent. Soils. — Clay, from the more stiff and tenacious to the loamy, predominates ; although there is also a considerable breadth of light turnip soil. The latter generally abounds with small stones. Botany, — Mr Street, gardener and florist at Beil, has naturaliz- ed or acclimatized the following exotics, which not only live but flourish on the Beil terraces : Coronilla valaitina, C. glauca. Cactus flagelUformisj C opuntia, C strictusj Mivmlus ylutijiosus, Coronilla juncea, Phormium tenax, or New Zealand flax, Calla Ethiopica pro- ducing ripe seeds in pots, Eucomis striata.* Tliere is a cedar of Lebanon in the Beil grounds, one of the largest in Britain. It was brought in a flower-pot from London, by the anti-unionist Lord Belhaven, and planted about the begin- ning of the last century; girth 14 feet, height about 60 feet, expansion of branches from trunk 30 feet, drop from do. in cir- cumference about 200 feet. * Mr Street has not only been successful in his attempts to naturalize ciotics; but is also well known to liorticulturistSy as possessing very considerable science in his profi>ssion. STENTON. 57 11. — Civil History. Principal Land-oumers. — Mrs H. N. Ferguson of Dirleton and Belhaven is patron and proprietor of about nine-tenths of the pa- rish; J. B. Sydserff, Esq. of Ruchlaw, William Hay, Esq. of Hopes, and Sir J. Suttie, Bart, are also heritors. The Beil estate came into the Dirleton family by intermar- riage. Hence the Nisbets prefixed Hamilton to their name. Soon after the death of the late Mr Nisbet, Sir J. Nisbet of Dean re- signed all claim to the estate of Dirleton, and the two properties are therefore now united. The late Mr Nisbet, after the death of his mother Mrs Ha- milton, added greatly to the mansion-house at Beil, from a plan by Atkinson ; and extended the range along the face of the bank on which the building stands to about 500 feet. In a series of about seven years, nearly L. 40,000 were expended. The addi- tion harmonizes well with the ancient structure. There are three tiers of flower terraces to the south, which are always kept in the best style, and greatly admired, at the base of which flows a beau- tiful stream. In the interior there is a fine variety of marbles fit- ted up, as side tables, &c. ; also a few good pictures by the best masters. Altogether the mansion is one of the most splendid to be seen in any country. It is unique from the terraces ; and the correct taste of the late proprietors, Mr and Mrs H. Nisbet, every where discovers itself. As the old church was very incommodious, Mrs H. N. Ferguson with a liberality peculiar to herself, proposed to the other heri- tors to assess them at the rate only of L. 900 for a new church, — she giving a much larger sum if they would allow her to adopt that plan which she might prefer. This was readily agreed to. The design was by Bum, modem Gothic, with a magnificent tower; no galleries ; the pulpit in the centre, and the family seat opposite. There is accommodation for 400, about 70 more than the law re- quires. It cost above L. 2000 ; and was opened by Dr Chalmers, October 4, 1829. Parochial Registers. — These begin in 1669, and have been pret- ty regularly kept III. — Population. The population has varied very little from time immemorial. According to Dr Webster - - 681 y the former Statistical Account, 624 Ana what is very remarkable, a unit makes up the dilTerence of the three last census. 58 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 1811, - - - - 686 18-21, - - - 685 18:31, .... 686 Malt-s, ... - 320 Fcniulcs, - - - 366 The disparity in the number of males and females probably arises from a number of young men leaving the parish in search of employment ; and the young women remaining as outworkers, — in which occupation a good many single women, householders, are employed, who receive 9d. every day they are called upon to work, with 600 yards of potatoes planted, coals driven, &c. for their year- ly service. The number of fiimilics in the pmriKb is • - . 151 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 92 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft» 29 Average of baptisms about - - - - 14 marrin'^cs, - - - - - 6 deaths about - - - - - 12 Poaching in game is beginning to shew itself, from the strict system of preserving recently adopted by the surrounding landed proprietors. This, along with night watching in the game season, is not favourable to the improvement of morals. During the last three years there have been six illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. The population is purely agricultural, with only its proportional accompaniment of carpenters, masons, blacksmiths. Sec The coun- try weaver was formerly one of these accompaniments but he has now almost disappeared. About twelve years ago there were no less than nine in the parish, whereas now there are only two ; and were it not that spinning is given out at Beil to the old women, these two would not be half employed. This change in the do- mestic economy has operated injuriously on in-door industry, and is the cause why many a bride is unprovided with gear of this kind at the time when the nuptials are celebrated. icu Jture. — Under tilllage about wood about permanent pasture moor do. 2 KK) acres. 40() 500 unknown. Rent of Land and Produce, — Average rent per acre, 7 bushels wheat = 2537 quarters ; ditto at second fiars, wheat Lw 2, 9s. per quarter; rental of the parish, about L. 7105. It is calculated that of the portion of land under tillage one-half is annually in com. Average produce per acre, wheat 4 quarters ; 3 STENTON. 59 barley 6; oats 7^; beans 4; =an average of 4 quarters 3 bushels per acre. Produce, — Gross produce per annuiDy 5775 quarters, - - • L. 8072 10 Turnips, one-sixth of the whole that is under tillage, at L. 6 per acre, 2000 Grass do. pastured or made into hay, ... 2000 Gross annual produce, ..... L. 12072 10 This of the part only under tillage. Permanent and moor pasture, wood, &c. may yield in addition about 3000 L. 15072 10 Bate of Wages— Hindis Boll Oats, 12 old bolls. . L. 10 10 9 Barley, 8 do. . 3 14 3 Pease, 2 do. m 1 7 Cow kept. m . 6 Potatoes planted, 1200 yards, 2 12 In lieu of keeping hens, > 15 L.24 19 Day-labourers 9s, per week, bondagers, 4s. 6d. but not employ- ed every day, — only at call of the master. Husbandry. — Tyle draining, lately introduced, promises mate- rially to improve tenacious soils. Bruised bones and rape-dust render the distant farmer almost independent of dung as a manure. Cattle likewise at two years old are brought to the same perfection, with re- gard to weight and fat as formerly at three. Altogether a great im- petus has lately been given to agriculture in all its branches. Land- lords are too enlightened not to see it to be their interest to give every encouragement to the tenantry ; and Mrs. H. N. Ferguson takes the lead in all that is liberal. V. — Parochial Economy. Dunbar is the nearest market-town, distant about five miles. Villages. — Stenton and Petcox. The latter for ages gave the name to the parish. In olden times it was a rectory, and a Mr Cockburn, the rector, was the first Protestant minister of Hadding- ton. He does not seem to have been a zealous Protestant, how- ever; for in 1564 and 1565 he was complained offer absenting him- self from the General Assembly. In Bagimont's roll, the Rec- tory of Petcox is rated at L. 2, Ids. 4d. Ecclesiastical State. — The church stands near the west boundary of the parish, and not very convenient for a part of the population. All the sittings are free. The manse was built in 1783, and re- paired in 1820, having been struck by lightning. The glebe is 1\ acres in extent. Rent 9 quarters wheat at second fiars. Sti- 60 HADDINGTONSHIRE. pend 17 chalders, half barley, half oats, excepting 8 bolls wheat Commuiiiou elements, Lw 8, 6s. Sd. About one -eighth of the inhabitants are Dissenters, who go to Dun- bar and East Linton. The collections for religious purposes may average about L. 10 annually. Education, — There is only one school in the parish, but all the children are within reach either of it or schools in the surrounding parishes. All are taught to read. Above one-sixth of the popu- lation are regularly receiving both week-day and Sabbath tuition. All the usual branches are taught. The salary is the maximum; the fees amount to about L. 40 per annum. Reading per quarter 2s. 6d. and other branches in proportion. Libraries, — There is one parish library and two itinerating. Friendly Society, — A friendly society has lately been instituted. Poor. — Average number who get regular assistance, 16 ; occa- sional ditto, 5 ; average annual allowance, L. 4, 5s. There has been an assessment for upwards of thirty years. It varies at pre* sent from L. 50 to L. 60 per annum. Collections and mortcloths, L. 21 ; interest on mortified money, L. 25. Precentor, beadle, &c. paid out of these funds. There is a growing disposition on the part of the poor to seek relief; aged parents wish to ease their children, and children to throw off parents. Still, however, there are many honourable exceptions. Alehouses, — There are two alehouses in the parish. Fuel — Coals rate very high; lid. percwt Carted from Pen- caitland and Penston, or sea carried to Dunbar. July 1835. PARISH OF WHITTINGHAM. PRESBYTERY OF DUNBAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE, THE REV. JOHN LUMSDEN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Namey S^c, — The name of the parish is derived no doubt from the Saxon Whit-ting'ham, the dwelling on the White Mead. There are several places in England of the same name. The village and church of Whittingham stand upon the bank of a winding stream, which arises in the parish of Garvald, but is here called Whit- tingham W^ater. This parish formed two chapelries, which were subordinate to the church of Dunbar. The lower part of the pa- rish was served by the chapel of Wliittingham, and the higher part in Lammermoor was served by the chapel of Penshiel, and these two chapels formed two of the prebends of the collegiate church, when it was settled under that form in 1342. Extent, Boundaries, — This parish extends in length from north to south 11 miles, and its mean breadth from east to west 13 4 miles, and contains 44 square miles. It is bounded on the south- west by the parish of Garvald ; on the west by Moreham ; on the north by Prestonkirk ; on the east by Stenton ; and on the south by the parishes of Cranshaws and Longformacus, in Berwickshire. Topographical Appearances^ Sfc. — The figure of the parish is ir- regular. Its surface southward is varied and uneven, rising and falling gradually from the village to the foot of Stoneypath hill ; from the top of which there is an extensive prospect of the German ocean. Island of May, the Bass rock, the Frith of Forth, the coast of Fife, and almost all the lower part of East-Lothian, and part of Mid- Lo- thian. The village, which is but a small one, stands on an eleva- tion of about 360 feet above the level of the sea. The air is keen and the climate healthy, both in the lower part of the parish, and in that extensive tract of it among the Lammermoor hills. Hydrography. — There are several excellent springs of water in the parish ; and several salubrious streams run through both its lower and higher districts. Tlie Whittingham water rke?. vw \\n& 02 HADDINGTONSHIRE. parish of Garvald, and joining the Nunraw bum at the east extre- mity of that parish, flows in an easterly direction through a beautiful glen or valley, in a winding course, bending sometimes to the right bank and sometimes to the left bank, both of which are covered from the top to the bottom with the finest trees of various kinds. This streiun runs through a beautiful and romantic glen, by Beil, Bolton, West Barns, and falls into the sea at Belhaven. The Whittadder rises on the north-west point of the farm of Johns- clcuo^h, and flows from the white well southward about three miles, and joins Fasseney water at Millknow. Tliis last mentioned stream rises on the eastern part of Westhopc's fann, in the parish of Gar- vald. The Whittadder having received this addition at Mill- know, rolls on in a south-east direction, till it falls into the Tweed four miles above Berwick. Geology and Mineralogy. — In the parish of Whittingham there are several excellent quarries of red freestone, which have been wrought to great extent. The Fasseney water, in Lammermoor, will ever be a spot peculiarly interesting to the geologist, from the appearance which it presents. It is well known that the extensive range ofmountainous country called the Lammermoor hills extend across the whole island, from the east sea to the west. It consists of a series of transition rocks, especially greywackc. It is obvious, that, however high their situation is at present, they must have once been laid at the bottom of the sea, and must have been raised up to their present situation by some immense expansive power from below, and which not only gave their elevation but their inclination, which in the whole range is almost vertical. It is not improbable that this has been eftccted by a mass of granite under them. Granite, it is generally admitted, appears either in mass, or in veins from it. The granite here is in mass ; but, so far as I know, it has never been discovered, as thrusting its veins into the superincumbent schistus. The appearance that it makes here is equally interesting both to the Wernerian and the Huttonian, each maintaining that it affords a confinnation of their respective theories. The Wernerian holds that granite is of the oldest formation of rocks, supporting all others. The Huttonian, on the other hand, maintains that it is a rock va- rying in age, consequently alternating with Neptunian rocks of dif- ferent epochas. The Wernerian, of course, affirms that it owes its ori- gin to water, the Huttonian to subterranean heat. But its present elevation and inclination could not have been produced by water, but WHITTINGHAM. 63 by some igneous force below. And the point of difference here is, whether this granite is stratified or not; and Dr Hutton was of opi- nion that no granite is stratified, for if so, this he imagined would set aside his theory. His disciples, however, differ somewhat from their master in this. And his acute and learned illustrator, Mr Playfair, and the scientific Sir James Hall of Dunglass, admitted that granite was to be found stratified, or in masses of great size, with seams in it ; yet, if it might be called stratified, it was very different from other rocks having this name. The granite in Fasseney water has certainly some appearance of stratification, or of being divided by seams of considerable thick- ness. And Mr Playfair affirms, that, though it was not admitted by Dr Hutton in his theory, yet he was of opinion that it does not oppose that theory in the smallest degree. Geologists may examine and judge for themselves. Upon the banks of this stream iron and copper ore have been found ; a small piece of the former was presented to Dr Hope many years ago. The writer of this has a small specimen of each of them in his possession. n. — Civil History. The Earls of March held their Baronial Court at Whittingham. In 1363, Patrick Earl of March granted to Alexander de Riek- linton the half of the lands of Spot, which Sir Alexander Ramsay had resigned, " in plena curia nostra apud Whytingeham." In 1372, George Earl of March gave in marriage with his sister Agnes, to James Douglass of Dalkeith, the manor of Whittingham, with the patronage of the chapel, when Whittingham and Penshiel became a separate parish from Dunbar, which estate and patron- age the Douglasses of Dalkeith possessed about 190 years. In October 1564, Queen Mary granted to James Earl of Mor- ton, who represented the Douglasses of Dalkeith, all their estates, with the barony of Whittingham, the castle and mills, and also the advowson of the church of Whittingham, and the Queen's grant to that unworthy servant was ratified by Parliament the 19th day of April 1567.* The next historical event which here occurred respects the murderers of Darnley, King of Scotland. It appears from history that the scene of this dreadful treason was laid in the castle of Whittingham. Part of this ancient building is still inhabited. Morton had just returned home from England, where he had been expatriated for the murder of Rizzio, being now pardoned by the • Vide Caledonia. "♦ * 64 HADDINGTONSHIRE. Queen ; here he met the Earl of Bothwell to concert the murder of Darnley, during the first week of December 1566. Morton, being accused and tried for his share in the King's mur- der, was openly convicted by an impartial jury of his countrymen, and finished his guilty career on the scaffold, for the very deed of which he had unjustly accused his Queen, who had so often par- doned his crimes and loaded him with favours. The night before his execution, being examined by the ministers of Edinburgh, he with his dying breath confessed his guilt. It appears that Lethington, as well as Archibald Douglas, was present in Whittingham at the time referred to, persuading Mor- ton to take part with them in the King's murder. And no doubt remains that he yielded to their importunities * The Earl of Morton was forfeited in 1581; but James VL soon returned the traitor's estates to his family, which were pos- sessed by them for a considerable time, till at length the estate of Whittingham passed to more worthy proprietors. For ear- ly in the seventeenth centurj', Viscount Seton of Kingston, married the daughter of Sir Archibald Douglas, who succeeded her father as heiress of Whittingham, by whom he had eleven children, six sons and five daughters. Both Archibald, the second Viscount Kingston, and James, the third Viscount, having died without issue, the honours became extinct. The Honourable Lady Elizabeth Seton, the youngest of the family, having survived all the rest, became heiress of Whittingham. She was married to the Honourable William Hay of Drummelzier, second son of the first Earl of Tweeddale, in the year 1695, as appears from the parish register of marriages : and by this marriage came into the possession of the estate of Whittingham and Stoneypath Tower. They had a numerous and highly respectable family of sons and daughters. The Hays of Drummelzier were long the proprietors of Whittingham. They were accounted most excellent landlords, — were highly esteemed by their equals, — and revered and beloved by their tenants in every county where they had property. Their representatives still ret^n the same amiable character. This estate was sold in the year 1817, to James Balfour, Esq. second son of John Balfour, Esq. of Balbirnie. Land-oxcners. — The principal proprietors of this parish now are, James Balfour, Esq. of Whittingham and Papple, Lord Wemyss, • Vide Mortoirs confession, in Kicliard Bannatyne's continuation of Knox*s History, and in the Appendix to Crawford's Memoirs. 4 WHITTINGHAM. 65 the Marquis of Tweeddale, the Earl of Haddington, Captain Buchan Sydserff, of Ruchlaw, Andrew Houston, Esq. of May- shiel, Mrs H. Nisbet Ferguson of Beil, and Miss Dalrymple of Hailes. The two last mentioned have each but a small possession in the parish. James Balfour, Esq. the principal proprietor of this parish, has built a splendid mansion upon the south bank of the Whittingham water, of Grecian architecture, delightfully situated, and com- manding a view of the country towards the sea. It is surrounded by beautiful plantations tastefully laid out Through the adjacent grounds, a variety of beautiful walks are interspersed, and, what seldom happens in other places, they have always a dry bot- tom, both summer and winter, and are so planned and contriv- ed, that on some of them, it is very easy at any season to find shelter from the wind and the storm. Towards this elegant edifice of Whittingham House, there are three magnificent ap- proaches, — one from the east, one from the south, and one from the west. Parochial Registers. — The date of the earliest entry in the pa- rish register is 1626. There have been some part of it lost ; but it has been kept pretty regularly for the last ninety years. Antiquities, — Upon the Marquis of Tweeddale's estate of Priest- law, at the south-east extremity of the parish, there is the appear- ance of a strong encampment, all the parts of which are still en- tire, as described in the former Statistical Account of this parish. This camp is of an oval form, with the broadest end, which is in- accessible, toward the north. On one side are four ditches paraK lei to each other, and the distance betwixt each is about twelve yards. On the north side are three ditches, and the outer one is carried round the whole. The circumference of this ancient mili- tary work measures about 670 yards. Part of the Castle of Whittingham is still in good repair, and is inhabited. It bears evident marks of great antiquity. There is another old building upon this estate called Stoneypath Tower, which was occupied in the year 1414, by James Douglas, design- ed of Roberton, who got it from his father James Douglas, the first Lord Dalkeith. It seems to have been strongly fortified both by nature and by art. A considerable part of its lofty walls are still standing. These estates seem to have been united and in the pos- session of one owner prior to the period in which Queen Mary be- HADDINGTON. E V 66 HADDINGTONSHIRE. stowed the barony of Whittingbamoiithe Earl of Morton in 1564^ as mentioned above. The ruins of the baronial residence of Penshiel axe still Tiiibla. The pend or arch of one wing of the building is still standing* The chapel of Penshiel stood below the house in a glen still cal- led Chapel Haugh. There seem to have been a good many buikU ings about it It is not certain whether any religious serrioes have been performed in it since the Reformation. There are also the ruins of another religious house in this pa- rish on the estate of Papple ; but at what period it was erected, or when it was demolished, is not now known. About twen^ feet of the height of one of its walls are still standing, covered over with ivy. A story concerning it has been handed down from fifc- ther to son, to the present time. There was a religious house at Friardykes in the parish of Stenton, to which the refractory priests from Melrose were occasionally banished; and betwixt the in* habitants of that place and Papple House, there was a frequent intercourse. A servant of one of the monks at Friardykes had by accident become aware of the murder of one of the nuns at Papple by the monks ; but not knowing that his master was con- cerned, communicated to him the discovery. The master ther^ upon takes measures to secure a similar fate for the servant him- self; and the tradition bears that this was prevented by M. De Lisle, the proprietor of Stoneypath Tower, discovering the pui^ pose of the master in a letter which the servant was carrying from him to the master of the house of Papple. 1 1 1. POPUL ATI ON. In the former Statistical Account, it is said, that in 1755, the number of inhabitants in this parish was 714. In 1821, it was 750; in 1831, 715. This decrease of 35 persons was owing to the principal resident heritor's family being in London at the time when the list was made up, and also on account of several houses in the village having been taken down. Number (tf fiunilies in the parUhy - . . . 13^ chiefly employed in agriculture, - . 107 in trade and handicraft, - - fiO other fiimilies, - . . 9 Number of unmarried men, bachelors, or widowers upwards of 50 years of age^ SS women, including widows, upwards of 45 years of age^ 80 The average number of births for the last seven years, . . 14 of deaths, ----- . 7 of marriages, ... . • ^ The number of persons at present under 25 years of age, . • 9|0 upwards of70 years of age^ - ]8 WHITTINGHAM. 67 Character and Habits of the People. — They are in general clean- ly in their houses and persons, orderly and decent in their behavi- our. Most of them attend regularly on public worship, and show a proper respect for the solemn ordinances of religion. There is only one public-house, which, as it is well regulated, has no bad eflect upon the niorals of the parishiqners. During the last three years, there have been four illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — Number of imperial acres cultivated or occasionally in tillage, . . 3958 ^ never cultivated or in pasture, . . 16500 under wood, 215 The greater proportion of the lands are enclosed with ditch and hedge, and in some places with stone dikes. The soil on the south side of Whittingham water is inferior to that on the north side. A part of the former division is of a light and sandy soil, and some of it poor clay ; however, there are several fields even here of a rich fertile good turnip soil Upon the north side of the water, the soil is of a superior quality, some of it is a deep rich loam, capable of producing as rich crops, when the season is favourable, as any land in the county. There are six large farms in the upper part of the parish among the Lammermoor hills ; part of some of them is arable, and in favourable seasons yields tolerable crops. The sheep grazed in this extensive district amount to about 270 scores, which, besides other profits, yield about 800 stones of wool. There are few black cattle fed here. The rental of these six farms is about L. 900. Two of them were let for three nineteen years leases and a life- time. The modes of husbandry generally followed in the lower part of the parish are the following : On a rich clay soil a rotation of seven shifts, viz. fallow, wheat, grass, grass, oats, beans, wheat ; on a poor clay soil a five-shift rotation, fallow, wheat, grass, grass, oats; on rich turnip soil seven-shift .rotation, turnips, wheat, or barley, grass, grass, oats, beans, wheat ; on a poor turnip soil five- shift rotation, turnips, barley, grass, grass, oats. Rent of Land — In the lower part of the parish the maximum rent is L. 3, 10s. and the minimum L. 1, 10s. per acre, Scots As some of the farms are now let at a grain rent, the average can- not be exactly ascertained. The rent for the grass of an ox or '•^ .13466 2068 1696 45 68 HADDINGTONSHIRE. COW is betwixt L. 3 and L. 4. The real rent of the pariah ii about L. 7596. The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the pariabi as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Produce of grain of all kinds poUtoes, turnips, and hay, land in pasture, thinning of woods, ToUl yearly value of raw produce, - L. 17275 V. — Parochial Economy. There is only one village in the parish, from which, to the nearest market-town, Haddington, is a distance of six miles ; Dunbar is seven miles distant from Whittingham. The roads through this parish are no less in extent than thirty miles. There are 67^ ploughgates in the parish, and each pays L. 2 for keeping these Hues of roads in proper repair. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated on the north side of Whittingham Water. It was built in 1722, and was repaired and made very commodious (though still rather small) in the year 1820l It can only accommodate about 350, though it should contain 47& There are usually about 270 communicants. The greatest part of the population reside to the westward of it, — some of those, in the Lammermoor district, being ten miles distant from their parish church. The manse was built in 1765, and is still in good order. The glebe, garden, and ground occupied by the manse and offices^ contain 6^ acres of good ground. The stipend was augmented in 1829, to 16 chalders of victual, half oats, and half barley, and L.8^ 6s. 8d. for communion element money. The number of families attending the Established church is 133 ; of Dissenting or Seced- ing families, 3. Education. — The parochial school is the only seminary in the parish, the master of which has the maximum salary, L. 34, 4s, 4d. : and his school fees may amount to L. 27 per annum. He has also about L. 14 a-year from other sources. The average number ot scholars is 75. There are no persons in the parish above six years who cannot read, nor above ten who cannot write, or are not learn- ing to do so. There are about 50 Sunday scholars. Poor. — The number of persons on the poor list at present is 17 (old persons,) and 12 (children, who cannot yet support them- selves.) The old persons receive from 15s. per quarter, to L. 1, Ss., WHITTINGHAM. 69 the children get 8s. 6d. per quarter each. The total amount dis- tributed among the poor, young and old, is about L. 88, 8s. annual- ly, besides house rents to some, and occasional supplies to others, in time of distress. The sums for the support of the poor are raised by assessment by the collections at the church, which amount annually to about L. 15, and by proclamations of marriage, and by mortcioths, and by L. 4 of interest of money mortified by the late Alexander Hay, Esq. of Drummelzier, once the patron of this pa- rish. The assessment for this year amounts to L. 70. Out of the ses- sion funds, the session-clerk, the precentor, and officer, are paid small salaries. The patron of the parish occasionally sends donations to the minister for the support of the industrious poor, not on the list, who may stand in need of some temporary supply; and his lady benevolently distributes among them coals and clothes annu- ally, as their necessities require. The receiving of parochial aid is here now reckoned no degra- dation. Many demand it as a legal right ; and instances are not uncommon of active young men in good circumstances, who do not think it incumbent on them to supply the wants of their aged pa- rents, but who without scruple, consign them to the support of the parish. May 1835. PARISH OF DUNBAR. PRESBYTERY OF DUNBAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. JOHN JAFFRAY, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The richest part of East Lothian, which is the Bnest com district in North Britain, is the parish of Dunbar. The name is evidently derived from the castle, which had the same appellation, and stood on a lofty rock within sea-mark, dividing equally the length of the parish. This castle, according to Hollinshed and Buchanan, was conferred by Kenneth I. of Scotland, about the year 835, upon an eminent warrior, whose name was Bar, — hence it was called Dun-bar ; but it is much more probable that this ancient hero took his name from the castle, and that the word is descriptive of the object and its situation, and signifies, both in British and Gae- lic, according to the learned author of Caledonia, the fort on the height, top, or extremity.* Extent^ lioumlaries^ S^'c, — The parish consists of a royal burgh and a landward district. The former i& near the castle, to which it owes both its name and existence. The latter stretches along the coast from east to west, 7 miles, 6 furlongs, and 160 yards in length, and from south to north 3 miles, 6 furlongs , and 70 yards in breadth. The mean length is 6 miles and 6 furlongs, and the mean breadth 1 mile 5^ furlongs, — which gives 11 :J^ square miles of extent. It is bounded by the parishes of Tynninghame and Prestonkirk on the west ; Stenton and Spott on the south ; In- nerwick on the east; and the German ocean on the north. Topographical Appearances* — Tlie figure is verj- irregular, being much indented both by the sea and by other lands. The coast to the east of the castle is of low rocky ledges, and to the west it is of craggy cliffs, which are lost under the sand of the beautiful bay of Belhaven. Tlie surface presents a pleasing variety of hill and dale, ascending gradually from the sea towards Lammermoor— com- manding an extensive prospect which embraces a great variety of striking objects, — St Abb's Head, Traprain-law, the beautiful woods * Chalmers, Caledonia, ii. 406. DUNBAp. 71 of Tynninghame, the Bass, the May, and the boundless ocean. The highest ground is Brunt-hill, which is 700 feet above the level of the sea: near to which, on the march, is Downhill, which is 580 feet above the level of the sea, and is famous as the place where Leslie encamped previous to the battle afterwards noticed. Hydrography. — The land is naturally so dry, that it would be difficult to find a spring on the surface. The water which supplies the town is brought two miles in leaden pipes from St John's well, in the parish of Spott, — which well is 200 feet above the sea. — The difference between high and low water is 18 feet — There are four streams which wind their way from the hills, and run through the parish into the ocean, — the Tyne, which separates Dunbar from Tynninghame, — the Belton water, which, after running through the old parish of Belton, joins the sea at the old port of la Belle Haven, — Broxburn which gives- it$ name to Broxmouth Park, and joins the sea there, — and Drybum water, which is the eastern boundary. Geology. — The rocky formations are all of the secon3ary class, and upon the coast they are laid bare, as if on purpose to attract the notice of the geologist The strata are either horizontal or inclined, and at particular places nearly vertical. The direction is N. E. and S. W. and the dip is to the S. E. From the eastern march west to the inlet of Broxburn, these rocks are grayish, and at some places yellowish sandstone, stratified and nearly horizon- tal, with numerous superincumbent beds of bluish gray limestone. One of these calcareous rocks east of Catcraig is a bed of petrifi- ed shells; and another of them, on the west of the same place, is petrified coral, and resembles masses of worms. There is a boulder east of the Vault, and another on the west, both just with- in flood -mark, and not belonging to the neighbouring rocks, but of granite formation. West of the said inlet, is a narrow bed or dike of porphyritic basaltic greenstone. Here the grayish sand- stone disappears, and the place is occupied by red sandstone, more inclined, and at places nearly vertical. Next in succession is a rock of greenstone, of red coloured trap tuff, and of red conglo- merated sandstone. These rocks are marked with beautiful moun- tain-green spots and they fill up the space right on to the harbour, which is cut out of a thick bed of red-coloured trap, which Profes- sor Jameson calls an iron shot porphyritic greenstone, — the colum- nar structure of which is visible all around, but particularly on the north-west side of the battery. These columns are either penta- gons or hexagons, but not of equal sides, having one lax^ ^jcsA^-w^ small, and the rest nearly equal, TYve^ ^te\o\\v\,^\^\s^i\.^^R^^^ x^^'^- 7 2 HADDINGTONSHIRE. larly as those in the Island of Staffa, having convex ends answer^ ing to the concave bottoms of the incumbent joints ; and they are neither in horizontal norvertical layers, butare formed of an hundred concentric circles Uke the coats ofan onion, and, what is still more peculiar, they are intersected by a thousand jasper veins as small as horse hairs, traversing but not intercepting one another in all direo tions. The septa of red and white sparry matter fills up the space be- tween them, and they are pervaded transversely by veins of die same matter. Such is the external and internal formation of these ba^ salts, which resemble the Giant's Causeway in Ireland, and are considered a great natural curiosity. Under these pillars, is a bed of red-coloured trap tuff resting upon sandstone, succeeded by lofty rugged rocks of the trap series, upon which the vestiges that remain of the ancient Castle of Dunbar are founded. Here the softer rocks have yielded to the perpetual motion of the vraters, while the more compact remain, forming large caverns and rugged arches, — through which the tide rushes with impetuous fury, present- ing a grand spectacle at all times, but awfully sublime during a storm. West of the castle, is a tract of sandstone, through the cen- tre of which a mass of trap rock (failed the " doo rock" rises to a considerable height, and not being hid by debris, it may fitly be compared to the skeleton of a mountain in miniature. Craggy cliffs of trap rock continue onward until they are succeeded first by cliffs, and then by ledges of red and white sandstone, which disappear under the sand of Belhaven bay.* Soil. — The general character of the soil is a rich brown loam, having a substratum of clay or gravel of great depth resting, to the west of Belton water, upon trap; and from that water to Broxburn, 'Upon a tract of red sandstone, which runs west through the county; and from that stream east, upon limestone, corresponding with the rocks upon the coast. Coal has been found here at several places, but not of sufficient thickness to be wrought. It abounds west of Had- dington, and also directly opposite in Fife; and as Dunbar is in the same basin, there is a great probability that workable seams exist * The Fox man-of war was unfortunately stranded off Dunbar in 1745, and there went to pieces. The wreck remained under water above thirty years, when a violent storm laid a part of it bare, and several masses, consisting of iron, ropes, and balls were found on the Belhavcn sands, near the place, covered over with a very hard ochry substance, of the colour of iron, which adhered thereto so strongly that it required great force to detach it from the fragments of the wreck. Upon examination, this substance appeared to be sand, concreted and hardened into a kind of stone. In a paper upon the subject by £dwar4 King, Esq. and published in the Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society, he concludes, ** that there is on the coasu of this island, a continual progressive induration oi masses of sand and other matter at the bottom of the ocean, somewhat in the same manner as there is at the bottom of the Adriatic sea.** DUNBAR. 73 here also. Mr Hay is just now boring for that mineral on his es^ tate of Eastbams. The work is conducted by a regularly bred miner, and the public-spirited proprietor has permitted me to copy the journal as below : * Botany. — The dominion of the plough is here so universal, that this is not a favourable situation for the botanist. It is difficult to determine what are the plants peculiar to the soil, but the follow- ing are not common, and have their habitats in the parish : Aspe-- •Strata. Gray freestone bonds, 1. Coal, Blue metal, W'hite freestone band. Blue metal, . White freestone, Gray freestone band, Blue metal. White freestone, Sofl blue metal. Limestone, 2. Coal, White freestone, Blue metal parting, White freestone. Blue metal parting. White freestone, Blue metal parting. White freestone, . Blue metal parting, 3. Coal, • • . White freestone. Blue parting. Gray freestone. Blue pai ting, White freestone, • Blue parting, • Black metal, . W'hite freestone, 4. Coal, White freestone. Gray freestone, Bluf metal, W^hitc freestone. Blue metal, • 5. Coal, White freestone. Gray freestone. Red Hill, . Red freestone, ^ . Gray freestone parting. Red freestone. Hard freestone beds, Ironstone, Gray freestone parting. Red freestone bed, Depth. Feet. Inches, 4 4 2 9 11 4 I 6 10 24 8 8 4 6 5 8 2 3 3 5 2 d 4 3 5 11 4 8 6 7 5 4 6 4 7 5 5 2 5 3 3 6 2 11 7 9 2 10 8 25 6 I 6 10 6 7 1 6 12 6 6 27 9 3 9 3 5 Strata, Brought up. Gray parting, . Blue metal, . White freestone, 6. Coal. . • • Gray freestone, . Red freestone beds. Ironstone, Red freestone beds. White freestone, • White freestone. Red Hill parting. White freestone. Red freestone, • White freestone. Red Hill parting. White freestone, . Red Hill parting, . White freestone. Red Hill parting. White freestone, Red freestone. White mixed with red, White freestone, . Red freestone, White freestone, • Gray freestone. White freestone, Red freestone. White freestone. Red freestone, • • White freestone. Red Hill parting, Gray mixed with white. Red Hill parting, White and gray mixture, Red Hill parting. White and gray mixture, Red Hill parting. White and gray mixture. Red Hill parting, White and gray mixturey Red Hill parting. White and gray mixture. Red parting. Depth. Feet. Inches* 199 8 3 2 4 14 5 7 3 4 9 3 8 1 4 4 2 8 2 8 6 4 8 6 6 6 6 1 21 2 8 1 6 2 9 3 10 1 6 9 1 1 4 6 4 6 6 6 6 3 5 6 3 4 6 3 5 6 3 3 6 Carry up. 199 8 Total depth, 336 74 HADDINGTONSHIRE. • ruga procumbensj among the ruins of the castle ; Eryngium marUi^ mum^ by the sea coast ; Trifoliutn scabrum^ dry pastures by the sea; Epipactis paltistrisj marsh near Dunbar; Verrucaria maura^ ba- saltic rocks at Dunbar; and Menyanthes trifolicUa^ marshes at Brox- mouth. The following Algae are found on the rocks and coast of Dunbar, Lichina minor^ Lichina conftnis^ Alaria escutenta^ IUh donienia laciriiatajSphosrococciu laciniatusy Ceramium drrosum^ and Fucus loreus. Trees. — There are scarcely any plantations but such as adorn the houses of proprietors. The land is considered too valuable to be laid out in that way, and the fanner has but little fancy for that kind of produce. He prefers a well-dressed hedge to the in- numerable rows of brushwood which in England occupy at least a tenth part of the soil. At Broxmouth, there are many stately well- grown trees of all kinds, and at Belton there are lofty silver firs about two hundred years old, and a magnificent beech tree which, three feet from the ground, measures 18 feet 6 inches. The timber is tough, weighty, and of excellent quality. 11. — Civil History. There is a history of Dunbar by Mr James Miller, a useful and meritorious work; it was published in 1830. The origin of parishes in North Britain, says Chalmers, cannot be traced beyond the ninth century. The time when Dunbar was established is unknown ; but, from the circumstance of its being the most valuable parish in Lothian, it is probable that it was one of the first formed in that district. It is distinguished for its fertility and cultivation, and it derived all its ancient importance from the castle, which was accounted the principal key of the king- dom. The lands of Dunbar and the eastern marches were conferred by Malcolm Canmore, in 1072, upon Cospatrick Earl of North- umberland, a princely nobleman, who fled from the wrath of Wil- liam the Conqueror, into Scotland, and there had a long suc- cession of potent and warlike descendants, who were created Earls of Dunbar and March, and held the same possessions till they were forfeited in 1435. The castle rendered Dunbar the theatre of many warlike exploits. Twice it was the field of very deadly strife: In 1296, when the whole force of Scotland collected for the relief of the castle, were defeated in battle with great slaughter, by Earl Warrene, the English Commander, who was sent to press the siege: And again in 1650, when Cromwell defeated Leslie on the same DUNBAR. 75 ground. " It is a sad reflection," says Chalmers, " that it was of little importance to a harassed people whether the fanatical Leslie or the miscreant Cromwell should prevail"* The first of these actions is here called the battle of Dunbar, the other the battle of Downhill. — During the civil war in 1745, Sir John Cope land- ed his troops at Dunbar, where he was joined by two regiments of dragoons : he marched thence towards Edinburgh, and was inglo- riously defeated in the battle of Preston. — In 1779, the famous Paul Jones lay off Dunbar several days with five ships, and alarm- ed the inhabitants, who prepared to defend the town. — In 1781, the' American Captain Fall, another sea adventurer, tried to carry off a vessel from the mouth of the harbour. This led to a brief and decisive action : three shots were fired on each side, and one of them from* the shore was so well directed by an old skilful seaman, that it nearly carried away the enemy's mast, and made him change his purpose. To defend the town and harbour against such as- saults, a battery was erected in the same year, of sixteen guns, — which at the general peace were removed to Edinburgh. — When an invasion of the French was dreaded, it was believed that a land- ing might be attempted at Belhaven bay ; to guard against which an enciimpment was made in 1803 on West Barns Links, under the command of General Don, a very active ofiicer ; and thereafter barracks were erected west of the castle for 1200 infantry, and at Belhaven for 300 cavalry. Dunbar was distinguished for its loyalty, and could boast of a corps of volunteers, and a troop of yeomanry cavalry collected from the parish and^ neighbourhood, equal to any in the kingdom. Burgh. — Buchanan mentions Dunbar so early as the year 856, when it was burned by Kenneth King of Scotland. It has evi- dently grown up under the protection of its castle. It was of old surrounded with a wall, had three posts or gates, and its principal street is regular and spacious. It was created by David II. a free burgh, with limits as extensive as the earldom of March, with a market cross, with power to buy and sell, with a coquet and trone, and with a free port at la Belle Haven. Its privileges were after- wards confirmed and extended by several. royal charters. In one of the last of these charters, dated " apud palatium nostrum de Halyrudhaus, 1 Mar. 1603," King James VI. confirmed to the provost, bailies, and community of Dunbar, the charter of David II. charter by King James II., dated 16th May 1445, — a charter * Caledonia, ii. 426. 76 HADDINGTONSHIRE. by Mary Queen of Scots, dated 1 8th June 1555,— and another charter by the same Queen, dated 3 1st March 1567; and defined the boundaries of the burgh according to a decision of the Court of Session, dated the 21st June 1569. A representative from Dunbar was admitted into the Scottish Parliament; but since the Union, it unites with Haddington, North- Berwick, Jedburgh, and Lauder, in sending one member to Par^ liament. The town was entirely burned in 1548, by the English army which Henry VIII. sent to punish the Scots for refusing to allow the marriage of their young Queen with his son. It is go- verned by a Provost, three Bailies, a Treasurer, and fifteen Coun- cillors. Its annual revenue is upwards of L. 1300 Sterling, derived from property and imposts. Eminent Characters. — Columba Dunbar was Dean of the Church of Dunbar in 1411, when he was promoted to the see of Moray. Thomas Hay, Dean of Dunbar, was, in 1532, appointed a Sena- tor of the College of Justice. Andrew Wood, Rector of Dunbar, was in 1676, promoted to the Bishopric of the Isles, and continued to hold it by dispensa- tion. He was translated to the see of Caithness, which he held till his episcopate was abolished at the Revolution. He died at Dunbar at the venerable age of seventy-six. George Home of Manderston, Lord High Treasurer of Scot- land under James VI., by whom he was, in 1605, created Earl of Dunbar, died at Whitehall the 29th January 1611, and was bu- ried in the Old Church of Dunbar. A splendid marble monument, superior, it is said, in sculpture to any thing of the kind in Scotland^ was erected to his memory: it is still preserved in the present church, and is 12 feet broad and 26 feet high. It is alleged that the Earl was attached to the prelatic form of worship ; and ac- cordingly, he is represented at full length, clad in armour, kneel- ing on a cushion, with his prayer book open before him. His sup- porters are two knights in armour ; and above, on the one side stands Justice, and on the other Wisdom. There are other appropriate figures and devices, and the whole is crowned with the arms of Home. James Kirkwood, Rector of Astwick, in Bedfordshire, was bom in the parish, and educated at the schools of Dunbar. He be- queathed in 1708, curiosities, books, and papers to the Presbytery of Dunbar, giving an account of his endeavours, in conjunction with DUNBAR. 77 the Honourable Robert Boyle, in disseminating the Irish Bible throughout the Highlands of Scotland. Patrick Carfrae, D. D. was translated from Morham in 1795, to the church and parish of Dunbar. He was perhaps the most elo- quent and accomplished preacher of his day. It is well known that such was the opinion of a very competent judge, the late Lord Liverpool, who was a regular hearer in the church of Dunbar, when stationed here with his regiment. Doctor Carfrae possessed in a high degree all the requisites of an orator ; and was one of the brightest ornaments of the classic age which is gone by. A family of the name of Fall established themselves at Dunbar, and became during the last century the most extensive merchants in Scotland. They were long the chief magistrates of the burgh, and preferred the public good to their own profit. They have left no one to bear their name, not even a stone to tell where they lie ; but they will long be remembered for their enterprise and public spirit. Chief Land'owners. — The Duke of Roxburghe;* Sir George Warrender of Lochend ; Robert Hay, Esq. of East- Barns ; Cap- tain Hay, R, N. of Belton ; General Hardyman of Heatherwick ; Mrs Hamilton Nisbet Ferguson of Ninewar ; William Sandilands, Esq. of Barnyhill ; John Allan, Esq. of Links, &c. Most of the estates of these land-owners have long been in possession of their families respectively. Parochial Registers. — Their earliest date is 1658. They have been regularly kept, and are not voluminous. The burgh register of sasines begins in 1620, the register of dispositions in 1737, and the council books in 1656. Antiquities^ Castle^ Sfc. — The ruins of the castle form a remark- able antiquity. They are particularly described by Sir Walter Scott in his Provincial Antiquities, and Grose has preserved two views of them. Founded upon a lofty rugged rock within the sea- mark, and connected with a battery on the adjoining land, by a wall through which there is a covered passage, this castle was so strongly fortified both by nature and by art, that before the inven- tion of gunpowder it was deemed impregnable. The date of the buildings is unknown ; but they are evidently the work of different ages. Several of the towers communicating with the sea gave it great advantages over inland forts. Being conferred on Cospa- * The estate and mansion of Broxmouth belonging to the Dukedom are liferent- ed by Mary Duchess Dowager of Roxburghe. 78 HADDINGTONSHIRE. trick, it was the pnDcipal baronial residence of his descendants, and afforded the means of enabling these warlike lords to maintain power and authority, little less than royal, through a long succession of rude and turbulent ages. In 1296, the eighth Earl of that family, adhering to the English interest, his wife Margery Comyn surren- dered his Castle of Dunbar to the Scots, when Edward L sent Earl Warrene to press the siege of this important place, which led to the battle of Dunbar. Edward IL after his defeat at Bannock- burn in 1314, sought refuge in this castle, and went from thence by sea to Berwick. The ninth Earl razed his castle of Dunbar, that it might not fall into the hands of the English, and was oblig- ed by Edward III. to rebuild it at his own expense. It was often besieged, and as often bravely defended ; but perhaps the most bril- liant period of its history was about 1337, when it was defended by Black Agnes against the Earl of Salisbury. In 1434, Geoige the eleventh and last Earl of Dunbar and March, was for his fii- ther's treason disinherited of his estates and seignories, which, with the hereditary castle of Dunbar, passed to the Crown, and were given to the Duke of Albany. Jane Seymour, dowager of James L the most beautiful and ac* complished woman of her age, died in the Castle of Dunbar in 1446, and was buried at Perth. The Duke of Albany, on his flight from Edinburgh Castle in 1475, landed at his Castle of Dunbar, and pro- ceeded thence to France. He returned and regained possession of this castle, and was compelled to fly from it a second time in 1483, when he left it in the hands of the English, who surrendered it to James IIL in 1486. An act of Parliament passed in 1488 directs the Castle of Dunbar to be cast down and utterly destroyed, in such manner as to render it incapable of repairs in time to come, ** be- cause it has done great skaith in time bygone, and it were great danger to the realm if it were negligently keeped in future." This act was not carried into effect till nearly a century afterwards. Four times did this stronghold receive within its walls the un- fortunate Queen Mary. In 1565, after the assassination of Rizno, she fled to it that she might be safe from the conspirators; and in the same year Bothwell, who had assisted her escape, was appoint- ed its keeper. The Queen and her court on a tour along the Tweed by Berwick arrived at this castle on the 17 th November 1566, and remained there six days. After the murder of Damley in 1567, BothwelPs guilty associates having recommended him to Mary for a husband, he marched at the head of a thousand horsemen, ar- DUNBAR. 79 rested the Queen at Almond Bridge, and carried her forcibly with her principal attendantis to this ca.stle, where he kept her twelve days imprisoned. One short month after her union with Bothw^ll, Mary was compelled to fly first to Borthwick, and next, disguised as a page, to Dunbar Castle, where she collected forces from Lothian and the Merse, and marched to Carberry hill ; there she joined the insurgents, and Bothwell deserted returned to Dunbar Castle '* With shame and sorrow filled, Shame for his folly ; sorrow out of time For plotting an unprofitable crime.*' Bothwell's dependents shortly thereafter surrendered the castle to the Earl of Murray, Regent of Scotland; and in 1567 Parliament ordered it to be demolished, and the artillery carried to Edinburgh, — which was so literally executed some months thereafter, that no- thing now remains of this important place of strength but the ves- tiges of its former grandeur. These are in many parts now so completely effaced that the antiquary may here give full scope to his imagination, and delight himself with rebuilding this ancient castle in the air. Patrick the sixth Earl of Dunbar, in 1218, founded in this pa- rish a monastery of Red or Trinity friars ; part of the building is still standing in the Friars Croft. The lands which piety or zeal had given them, says Spottiswood, were transferred after the Re- formation to George Home of Friarsland. In 1263, the seventh Earl founded here a monastery of Carme- lites or White friars ; but no vestiges of it now remain. Some Ro- man medals inscribed Judea captiva were found, on digging the site of the reservoir : hence it was supposed to have been formerly the site of the Carmelite friary. There was also a Maison Dieu at the head of the High Street ; but its pious founder is now unknown. In Broxmouth Park, there is a small mound of earth where Crom- well stood (and which is still called Cromwell's Mount,) when, look- ing through a glass, he beheld Leslie's army descending from the hill, and exclaimed the " Lord hath delivered them into my hands." In a sequestered spot, not far from the door of Broxmouth House, is a rough tombstone, having the name of Sir William Douglas rudely inscribed upon it ; he was one of the Douglasses of Kirkness, a branch of the Morton family, and the only individual among the fallen in that battle who has been honoured even with such a frail memorial to mark the warrior's bed. Modem Buildings, — There is a Gothic church, having its base 65 feet above the level of the sea, with a magnificent tower 107 (<^ ^^^^ 84 HADDINGTONSHIRE. increasing produce and fertility. Hence it seems to follow that land properly cultivated and manured may produce abundantly the same kind of crop in regular succession. If the food of plants is exhausted in exact proportion to the weight of crop produced, it is worthy of investigation whether the advantage of changing the kind of crop does not arise from one kind giving off food for another kind, but solely from the different modes of cultivation which diffe- rent kinds of crop admit of at different seasons. Varieties of wheat have been recommended; but where the soil and climate are good, the kind most prized, both by the skil- ful miller and baker, is the white wheat from Kent and Essex. Some of the best growers there import seed from America; the produce of which has been tried here. It grows freely, has a tapering stalk, yields well, has plenty of straw, is eight days ear- lier, and brings the highest price in the London markets The grain of wheat in its wild state is a very paltry seed. It has been raised to its present plump state by cultivation ; and by a little at- tention the process of improvement might be accelerated. The author has found, from experiments, that ears and even grains of wheat reproduced their like; hence, by a judicious selection of either, better and more prolific kincbs than any hitherto in use might be obtained. The duration of leases is generally nineteen years. Farm-build- ings have here long been constructed after the most approved plans* The land is all inclosed either with stone dikes or thorn hedges; the latter are regularly cleaned and nejitly kept Thrashing of corn by steam is the greatest improvement which has lately been introduced here. The work is thereby done so com- pletely, that, on a large farm, the whole outlay is saved the first year : the farmer is enabled to bring his corn to the market at any season ; and there is a great saving of horses, to which the rotatory motion of the mill is most pernicious. Pillars, whereon to build the corn in the barn yard, should have been more generally intro- duced. Some individuals have them of stone, but cast-iron ones are the best. They have a cover with a turned down edge, — which ren- ders them a complete defence against vermin. They admit a free circulation of air to the stacks, and the saving is beyond calculation. If there be any thing to censure in this improved district, it is the careless manner in which the corn is cut. Some seasons, in such a soil and climate, the whole crop is ripe at once. The country is then deluged with Iris^ reapers, who on their way south are here hired by hundreds, and perhaps the YiVvole cto^i V5» exx\. \xv ^v^t DUNBAR. 85 days. Some of these poor creatures appear uever to have cut corn before, and they have no object but to remain their hours and to re- ceive their meat and wages. The field is too often a scene of con- fusion ; there is neither a sufficient portion of work done, nor is it done in a workman-like manner. The corn being irregularly cut and laid in the sheaf, much of it is lost in working, and the irregu- lar heads escape the mill in thrashing. Perhaps it is thought, that where nature has been bountiful, the fowls of Heaven and the poor have a right to their share ; but it is certain, that when the corn is led from the field, a gleaner will with ease collect a bushel per day. It is true, some farmers rake their fields ; but grain which remains on the ground is discoloured and injured ; and the best raking is clean-cutting. There are distinguished exceptions in the parish ; but the practice is too generally applicable to the district. It may safely be affirnied of the Dunbar farmers that they readily make trial of any thing that promises to be useful ; that there is amongst them a great deal of good-natured emulation ; and that they frankly com- municate the results of their experiments. In short, so much has been done here, both by nature and by art, to render the earth pro- ductive, that perhaps there remains but little to carry husbandry to perfection. Quarries, — Red freestone more or less compact abounds. There are also two quarries of gray limestone. The lime is very pure, very white, and forms a strong cement. Much lime for manure is carried from this quarter to Berwickshire. It is to be regretted that in this parish, where it abounds, it has not been so copiously applied for that purpose as it ought, — from a belief that the free nature of the soil does not require it ; whereas Sir Humphry Davy asserts, that ** all soils are improved by mild lime, and ultimately by quicklime, which do not eflFervesce with acids and sands more than clays." Fisheries. — White fish of all kinds and lobsters are caught off the coast The cod are pickled, and sent to London ; the had- docks are smoked and sent chiefly to Edinburgh and Glasgow. The lobsters are preserved in pits cut out of the rock within sea mark, which are called bullies, and sent to London. In August and September, herrings of excellent quality are caught oflF Dun- bar : some yeacs, 300 boats have been so employed ; but of late, either the fish have not been upon the coast, or, what is more pro- bable, the fishermen have not found them. Raw Produce. — Wheat having fallen in price so much of late, a considerable portion of barley is now sown after turnips, in ijjlace of wheats in the rotation above staled ^WV ?A\Y^ciiYft!^^^'sfe\:H<^>Ki».^ 8() HADDINGTONSHIRE. of crops to be equal in value, that will make no difference on the average gross amount of raw produce, — which, from the extent of land in the parish, and the rotation of cropping, may be calculated thus: Deduct from the whole parish 100 acres for roads and hedges, and 300 acres of links^ which are not allowed to be ploughed, and then there will remain 6797 acres, which are either occupied as follows, or with some other produce equally valuable. Turnips, 1133 acres at L. 6, 10s. per acre, - - L. 7364 10 Wheat, ii'266 acres, 32 bushels at 7s. 7d. per bushel, - 27494 2 6 Grass, 1 1. '33 do. at L. 5, per acre, _ - - . df^ Oats, 1 133 do. at 58 bushels per acre, at ds. 1 4d. per bushel, 10*262 16 b\ Beans, 1 133 do. at 26 bushels per acre, at 4s. Id. per bushel, 6014 6 10 Links, 300 do at L.l, per acre, 900 Lime, 18000 bolls annually, at Is. 6d. per boll, - 1300 Fish annually 800 Lobsters, 15000 Annual amount of raw produce, L. 59,950 15 94 The average of the grain is taken from the examination of Mr Brodie of Thornton Loch, before a committee of the House of Lords in 1814; and the price is the average of the Haddington fiars for the last seven years. Bone manure having enabled the hill farmer to raise turnips, their price has fallen in the low lands. Manufactures, — The expectations formed of the flax mill erect- ed at West Barns in 1792 were not realized ; and the cotton factory established at Belliaven in 1815 was also a failure. Both of these undertakings were productive of loss to the parties concerned, and introduced many paupers into the parish. Such factories can only exist advantageously where numbers of persons in manufacturing employments are congregated together, and such a population and that of a rich agricultural district have never been found to harmo- nize. — There are two founderies here, which manufacture machi- nery of various kinds. Mr Sked, the proprietor of one of them, is celebrated for his steam-engines. — Dunbar was of old famous for its malt. It is equally so at present for its ale. Navigation, — The same causes which have depressed shipping everywhere else, have aflected that of Dunbar, — so that now it is not equal there to what it was in 1792, when there were sixteen vessels of 1505 tons burthen in all, besides two Greenland ships of 675 tons. At present there are eighteen small vessels, of only 1233 tons burthen in all, three of which are chiefly employed in fo- reign, and the others in the coast trade. The subjoined state- ments may give an idea of the trade of the port. 1. Number of vessels with cargoes that have entered inwards at the Custom-house, Dunbar, from foreign ports^ in the year ended ^th Janunrv 1835 : DUNBAR. 87 Of vessels, 23 ; tons, 2310 ; men, 134. Amount of duties re- ceived on foreign goods imported in the year ended 5th January 1835, L.2942, 15s. 2. The number of vessels coastwise^ that have discharged and loaded cargoes at Dunbar, in the year ended 5th January 1835: Inwards — Of vessels, 244; tons, 11,919; men, 762. Outwards — Do. 149 ; tons, 7081 ; men, 478. 3. Foreign grain imported at Dunbar in the year ended 5th Ja- nuary 1835: Wheat, 203 quarters 4 bushels; barley, 3346 quarters. 4. Quantities remaining in the bonded warehouses at 5th January 1835 : — Wheat, 441 quarters 1 bushel ; barley, 3346 quarters ; oats, 145 quarters, 7 bushels ; total, 3933 quarters. 5. Coals imported at Dunbar and its creeks during the same year: — Scotch coals, 9489 tons, 13 cwt. ; English do. 763 tons, 5 cwt.; English cinders, 31 tons, 16 cwt. 6. Corn imported coastwise during the same year : — Wlieat, 342 quarters ; barley, 2007 quarters, 2 bushels. 7. Corn exported coastwise during the same year. — Wheat, 8608 quarters, 3 bushels ; barley, 3936 quarters, 1 bushel ; oats, 6067 quarters, 1 bushel; beans and pejisc, 1981 quarters, 7 bushels; malt, 359 bushels; wheat flour, 231 sacks. Whisky ex- ported, 91,900 gallons. Three distilleries, one of them in the parish, and the other two in Haddington, have done no work for the last two years. This must have greatly affected the grain market, and also the trade of the port. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town. — Dunbar is inhabited chiefly by the merchants, shopkeepers, and artisans required in such a situation; and it is the only market-town in the district. It had formerly a sample mar- ket for grain every Thursday, which in 1832 was converted into a stock-market every Tuesday. Grain is brought to it from the surrounding country, but prin- cipally from the high-lands of Berwickshire, in the proportion, some days through the eastern toll, of ninety cart load from that quarter, to nine from the county of Haddington. The love of change led to the establishment lately of a stock-market at Tra- nent This divided the Haddington market, which was decidedly the most important grain-market in Scotland ; lessened competi- tion, introduced inferior grain, and reduced the prices. The sel- lers are now at the mercy of the buyer; whatever portion of grain is presenteAj the result is the same. \l iVv^i^ ^\^ wq xxv^^^'KewVs*^^^ 88 HADUINGTONSHIRE. there are no sales ; and if only two or three appear, it is in their power to regulate the market. Villages, — There are three villages, namely. East- Barns, West- Barns>, and Belhaven. Means of Communication. — Seven miles, six furlongs, and ninety yards of the grieat road to London, pass through the parish ; and there are excellent conveyances, both east and west. There is a post- office in the town, where the royal mail arrives every day at forty-five minutes past ten o'clock in the forenoon from the north, and at twenty minutes past eleven o'clock forenoon from the south. Steele's coach, which is both speedy and comfortable, leaves Dunbar for Edinburgh every week-day at seven o'clock in the morning, and re- turns to it on the same day at the same hour in the evening. The Union and Berwick coaches pass and repass every week-day. There are carriers twice every week, and regular packets to Leith and London. Harbour. — The harbour is safe and commodious, has 9 feet of water at neap, and 14 at spring tides, and admits vessels of 300 tons burthen ; but on account of rugged rocks at its entrance, skilful pilotage is required. The convention of Royal burghs in 1785, voted L. 600 to improve it ; and Cromwell in his time grant- ed L. 300 to repair the east pier, which had been destroyed by a storm. Ecclesiastical State. — The worthy St Baldred, it is said, was the apostle of East Lothian. He fixed his cell at Tynninghame, and preached the Gospel through the district, sometime duringthe sixth century; and his successor was the pious St Cuthbert; but the sub- ject is involved in obscurity. The parish belonged originally to the bishopric of Lindisfarne ; and at the decline of the Northum- brian kingdom, it was ceded in 1020, with the rest of Lothian to the Scottish King, and annexed to the bishopric of St Andrews. In addition to the present parish, it then contained the parochial districts of Whittingham, Stenton, and Spott, which were chapelries subordinate to the mother church. This very extensive parish had six chapels, namely, Pinkterton, Heatherwick, Whittingham, Penshiel, Stenton, and Spott. Dunbar with its chapel of Whit- tingham was valued in 1176 at 180 merks, which, says Chalmers, *' is a greater valuation than any other church in Scotland could bear." The Earls of Dunbar were proprietors of the whole pa- rish, and patrons of the church and subordinate chapels. Patrick' the tenth Earl, in 1342, converted this parochial into a collegiate church, which was the first cstabUshmetvt ot \W Va\A\w ^qXVwcA, DUNBAR. 89 It consisted of a Dean, an Archpriest, and eighteen Canons ; and the revenues of the church of Dunbar, with the incomes of the chapels of Whittingham, Spott, Stenton, Penshiel, and Heather- wick, were assigned for their support. The founder annexed to this college the churches of Linton or Prestonkirk, Dunse, and Chirnside ; and he reserved the patronage of the whole to himself and his successors. Afterwards, the chapels were converted into parish churches, but still dependent on the mother church as prebends of the college. When Heatherwick was made a distinct parish, it was a rectory called Bclton, which was the name of the estate and also of two villages. It remained a separate parish until the Reformation in 1560, when it was re-annexed to Dunbar, and then also Dunbar ceased to be collegiate. The patronage of the church fell to the Crown with the forfeiture of the Earldom of Dunbar in 1434. The said oarldom and patronage were enjoyed by the Duke of Albany, and at his forfeiture they again fell to the Crown, in 1483. The patronage of the church of Dunbar now belongs to the Dukedom of Roxburghe, and it is liferented by Mary Duchess Dowager of Roxburghe. It appears that the church was named St Bae's, after its founder, according to a traditionary rhyme regarding three female saints, who strove to build a church nearest to the sea.* We find that in a charter by King James IV. it is called Ecclesia Collegiata Sancti Bae dc Dunbar. The building must have been repeatedly renewed and altered. When last taken down, its style was a mixture of Gothic and Saxon ; and it was in the form of a cross. It was inconvenient, and not large enough for the popu- lation. The last time Divine service was performed in it was on Sundav, 7th March 1819. The foundation stone of a new church was laid on the site of the old one, 17th April 1819; and on the 20th April 18'21, the now church was opened for the ordina- tion of the present incumbent. It is most conveniently situated for the whole parish. Almost the whole inhabitants are within three miles of it, and scarcely any of them beyond four. It contains 1800 persons, and has 61 free sittings for the poor of the parish.-f- The manse was built in 1767. The glebe is four Scotch acres in extent ; and there is no grass glebe. The stipend is twenty • " St Abb's iiixm the N'al), St HelcnK upon tbu Lea, St Hau*!», upon DunlKir sands, Stands nearest tu tbe sea/* f In 1B22, a new metbod of lotting cburcb seats was adopted on tbe part of the burgh. A price was marked upon certain pews beluu^vii^^ ttt \V ^\\^ \JciVi >i \vss^«x xs«^- cd mem up, that none might enter ti\i iVkc-y 'weift Vx., 'VXx^ VvtV-^Rsaaxw ^^ww^ssocasA. 90 HADDINGTONSHIRE. chalders. There are upwards of 1200 communicants in the parish belonging to the EstabHshed Church. In 1792, there was a Burgher meeting in Dunbar, and an Anti- burgher meeting at East- Bams. The latter was in 1820 transferred to Dunbar. One of them is now called the High Meeting, and the other the Low Meeting; and they both belong to the united Asso- ciate Synod. There was then also a small meeting of Wesleyan Methodists ; and what was said in the last Account respecting these societies, is applicable to them still, " their congregations are made up of a collection of people from all the parishes in the neigh- bourhood." There are 615 families that adhere to the Established Church, and 294 families of Dissenters or Seceders of various denominations. Education. — There are two parochial schools, — the one at West- Bams having all the legal accommodations, with the maximum sa- lary, and the other, at East- Bams, having only one-half chalder, and the interest of L. 100 Sterling, bequeathed by William Hume^ tenant at that place, and of L. 50 Sterling bequeathed by the Reverend George Bruce ; and both these sums are committed in trust to the Presbytery of Dunbar, for the benefit of the school. The burgh has an English and a grammar school, united at pre- sent under one master, and a mathematical school. The teacher of the former has a house and forty guineas of salary ; that of the latter a house and L. 20 Sterling. There are three unendowed schools. The rural inhabitants of the parish are very attentive to the edu- cation of their children. Education is also highly prized by the people of. the burgh ; and if among the latter there are individuals who are inattentive to the instruction of their children, they should on no account be discharged from the task by their children being to the Sheriff of this proceeding* who immediately ordered the pews to be opened^ and having heard parties, found, ** That although the heritors of the parish may be entitled to stipulate for, and receive rents from the parishioners for the seats in the parish church, yet, in default of obtaining tenants, they are not warranted in shutting them up in the manner here complained of, and therefore prohibits and interdicts the respondent, the chief Magistrate of Dunbar, from shutting up, in the manner com- plained of, the seats held by that burgh in the parish church, and finds him liable in the expense of this proceeding, reserving to him his relief against the magistrates and the community of said burgh, as accords." llie Provost presented a petition against this interlocutor, alleging that the shutting up of the seats was the act of the magis- trates, and not his individually. The kirk-session answered, that they had no means of ascertaining by what authority he acted, but what they affirmed they offered to prove. The Sheriff then ordered the magistrates and council to be called, conjoined the two processes, interdicted them from shutting up the seats, found them liable in the expense, and reserved to them recourse against each other. The magistrates next presented a bill of advocation to the Court of Session, which was repelled, and the case remitted simpllciUr to the Shcrifi*. The magistrates acquiesced, and paid the whole expense of procedure. DUNBAK. 91 educated at a free school, which corrupts the parent and degrades the child. They ought rather to be stirred up to a sense of their duty, and prompted to place themselves and their children on an equality with their neighbours. The heritors and kirk-session pro- vide for the education of all orphan children. Library. — There is a Subscription Library, containing many hundred volumes ; and a reading-room. The mechanics also have a library of several hundred volumes. Banks. — In the town there is a branch of the British Linen Company, and also one of the Commercial Bank of Scotland. Friendly Societies, — Many of these have, from time to time, ex- isted in Dunbar; but, being established on erroneous principles, most of them were of short duration. The only one which has weathered the storm is the Sailors Society. It was established, beyond the memory of man, for the benefit of superannuated seamen and their widows. Its funds were originally derived from a duty of eight pennies on the pound Scots out of all wages paid to masters, mates, and sailors frequenting the port. This society must.have been well managed, for now it has both lands and money. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The management of the poor is committed to the kirk-session, who regularly account to the heri- tors. The number of the poor and their allowances are perpetual- ly changing. While, in other places, poor rates have increased, — here, by a stedfast adherence to the spirit of poor laws, they have been greatly diminished. The annual expenditure is at present about L. 450 Sterling, — which sum is raised, 1. by the interest of Binning's mortmain of L. 75 Sterling, paid by the burgh ; 2. by incidents at marriages and funerals ; 3. by collections at the church door ; 4. by a regular assessment. A committee of three heritors and three magistrates, with the assistance of the kirk-session, appointed to investigate the subject, lately ascertained that the total number of paupers in the burgh, and the landward parts of the parish, was 103. Of these, 86 have a settlement in the burgh ; in the landward district, 17. It was fur- ther ascertained that, of these 103 paupers, 50 were born and brought up in the burgh; in the landward district, 10; emigrated from other parishes, 43. In 1724, it was agreed between the heritors and the town, that for the year ensuing allenarly^ the town should pay one-sixth of the money raised in the parish for the maintenance of the poor, — but with a special clause, that this should not become a precedent for the future. The ot\\er ftve-sv\\\\s \?^\vi ^vLA \s^ '^^ \nkv\- 92 HADDINGTONSHIRE. tors and tenants of the landward district. This agreement was not renewed, — but different rules were adopted till the year 1774, for which and the subsequent years, the town of Dunbar has paid only one-sixth of the assessment. The attention of the heritors was at length directed to the subject by certain extraordinary claims which were made on the pftirt of the burgh. The chief magistrate claim- ed a right ex officio to give orders upon the funds ;* and if two or more baiHes attended the meetings, each claimed a right to vote. The heritors being thus called upon to look to their interest, were advised to institute an action of declarator^ to have it found ^^ that the management and maintenance of the poor of the land- ward district and of the burgh are separate and distinct, and that the pursuers, as heritors of the landward district, with their tenants and other inhabitants thereof, are not liable for the support of the poor of the burgh, but for that of the poor resident within the landward district allenarly^ and the provost, magistrates, and coun- cil, as representing the community of the said burgh of Dunbar, ought and should be decerned and ordained, by decree foresaid, to sustain and manage the poor of the said burgh according to law : Or otherwise, in the event of the pursuers failing in the above con- clusion of their action, then and in that case it ought and should be found and declared, by decree foresaid, that the power of taking up the lists of the aggregate poor, determining the assessments, and managing the funds, belongs to the meeting of heritors, provost, minister, and elders, and that the assessment to be imposed for the support of the aggregate poor shall be laid on the whole in- habitants of the parish equally, whether in burgh or landward, ac- cording to the estimation of their 'substance, without exception of persons." The action came before their Lordships of the Second Division, who ordered the opinions of the other Judges to be taken thereon. Three of the Consulted Judges having returned opinions for a separation, and six of them against it, their Lordships of the • 'Hie writer conceives it to be of importance that the terms of the letter written on tliis occasion by the Provost to the Clerk of the Poors* Funds should be here inserted. Dnnhar^ \st November 1825. Sir, — I gave an order upon you yesterday, to pay a woman twenty shillings to ae- count of the maintenance of three poor children she has had the charge of, belonging to the parish, and which order I understand you have refused to pay, nor will you as- sign your reason in writing for your refusal, but have sent me a message that 3rou have not time to write. 1 now again demand of you either to pay the order, or to state your reason why you withhold the money, as I consider a refusal a dereliction of your duty as clerk of the iMX>rs* funds, and 1 shall hold you personally responsible, and shall accordingly take the necessary steps to oblige you to account for your con- duct; and in the meantime the town of Dunbar will withhold their share of the money they have been in the practice of paying towards the itinerant poors* allow- ance, as well as the cess allocated upon the town at the last meeting of heritors. — I am, Sir, jour most obedient servant. DUNBAR. 93 Second Division, four In number, on 10th April 1633, resumed con- sideration of the case, with the returned opinions, and, unanimous- ly concurring with the minority of the Consulted Judges, decerned in terms of the first conclusion. The burgh appealed; Lord Brougham having offered, when he had ceased to be Chancellor, to hear Scotch cases, heard this one: and on his motion, the House of Lords, ]Oth April 1835, ** Ordered and adjudged, that the interlocutor complained of in the said appeal be, and the same is hereby, reversed, and it is further ordered, that the cause be remitted back to the Second Division of the Court of Session, in order that the said Court may proceed further in the said cause, as shall be just and consistent with this judgment." The kirk-session were ciilled as parties in this action, but did not appear. They arc most anxious, however, for an equitable set- tlement of the question, and the minister has never concealed his 4)pinion, that the separation contended for would eventually benefit both parties. Since it has thus been found that there can only be one roll of poor in a parish, if it shall be further found that there must also be only one management and one assessment laid on the whole inhabitants according to the estimation of their substance, this judgment may prove most vexatious even to the burghs. It directly or indirectly affects every parish in Scotland. It leaves the burghs which have landward districts without a law ; it introduces confusion into the whole system, and, there is reason to believe, that it is neither supported by the facts of tlie case nor by the acts of Parliament. The case is one of very grejit importance : and those who take an interest in it may consult the process. Lanark is about to try the same question. JaiL — The jail is in a very bad condition, and has been legally condemned ; but fortunately it is seldom occupied. Two town-offi- cers and two Sheriff-officers are all the police required in this peace- ful district. Fairs, — There are two fairs in the year, where all the usual wares and cattle are exposed : — one of them at Whitsunday, and the other at Martinmas, old style, if these days shall fall on a Tuesday ; if not, on the first Tuesday thereafter. FueL — Coal is the only fuel used, which is imported from Wemyss, Charleston, Borrowstounness, and Sunderland. Scotch coal costs from 7s. to 9s. per boll of 12 cwt. English coal from 10s. to 12s. Bccording to quality. 94 IIADDINC.TONSIllRi:. J fins, — Tliere arc two inns in Dunbar, with excellent accomofio- (lation, and there arc fifty-four persons residing within the parish licensed to sell beer and spirits, — a number by far too great Tliis is a sore evil, which h.is long been complained of, and it appears to be increasing. " There are," Sciys the judicious writer of the last ac- count, " no fewer than forty-six licensed alehouses where low-priced spirits are retailed, and where the execrable custom of dram-drink- ing is practised. This we may justly pronounce to be the bane of all good and the source of a 11 evil, — the ruin of health and morals, — and of all domestic duty and comfort, — the reproach of man, and the disgrace of woman." Miscellaneous Observations. This parish is but of small extent, but it yields a large rental. An improved system of agriculture having been early introduced, its external surface has been but little changed since the last account ; but by a copious application of manure, and by excellent cultivation, the soil has been rendered much more productive. The education — the habits and comforts of the people — the revenue of the burgh, and the rental of the parish — have all been greatly improved. The plough now in use is not the best that might be devised to pulverize the soil, especially strong clays, so as to render them most productive. One with more coulters — to cut the furrows into small pieces, would permit the roots of plants to spread more freely— render the soil more capacious of moisture, and more susceptible of heat. The nearer that field cultivation is brought to that of garden, the greater the return ; and an implement to be drawn by a horse to Dutch-hoe the stubble, as soon as the crop is carried off, and some- time before the land is ploughed, would be the most effectual remedy against annual weeds. The trench plough, invented by Mr Smith of Deanston, might be introduced here with great ad- vantage. A railway has been projected from Cairnie, in the parish of In- veresk, to the town of Haddington, and port of Dunbar. A plan and estimate have been prepared by Robert Stevenson, Esq. civil- engineer. All the hinds receive the same amount of gain — whatever be their merits as servants or workmen. It is worthy of consideration whether it would not greatly promote the interest of the farmer, as well as ultimately that of the hind, to hold out to the latter, the pros])ect of a higher allowance to such as excel. Sfptemhcr ia35. UNITED PARISHES OF GARVALD AND BARA* SYNOD CF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE, PRESBYTERY OF HADDINGTON. THE REV. JOHN SANGSTER, D. D. MINISTER.f I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — Garvald is said to be compounded of the two Gaelic words, GaVj signifying rough or rugged, and raW, a small water or bum. This etymology is exactly descriptive of the local situa- tion of Garvald ; for the village is situated upon a small water or bum, the bed of which abounds in stones. When this water is flooded, such is the force and rapidity of the stream, that it sweeps along and throws out upon the low grounds stones of great weight and size. Extent. — The united parishes of Garvald and Bara extend from east to west about 8 or 9 miles, and from north to south about 4 or 5 miles. It is bounded by Gilford, Haddington, and Moreham on the west ; by Whittingham on the north and east ; and by Lauder on the south. Topographical Appearances^ Sfc, — The figure of the parish is irregular, — it being intersected by several of the adjacent parishes. The grounds that lie in the south and north of these parishes ex- hibit in their appearance a striking contrast to each other. Those on the south are mostly covered with heath, of a mossy soil. The range of the I^immermoorhills, which in these parishes extend from east to west about 8 or 9 miles, is for the most part covered with heath, tnterspersed with large plots of grass. The grounds that lie in the north are of a deep rich clay soil, and produce excellent crops of wheat, barley, oats, &c. Those towards the east are of a fine * The pariHhes of Garvald and Bara were united in 1702. Hie late incumbent's immediate predecessor, Mr Archibald Blair, uncle of the late Lord President, preach. edt in terms of the decreet of annexation, at Garvald and Bara, per alternatat vices, till about the year 1743 or 1744, when the kirk of Bara fell into disrepair. It is now A complete ruin. \ Drawn up by Mr Tliomas Burnet, Preacher of the Gospel. 96 HADDINGTONSHIRE. IJght gravelly soil, exceedingly well adapted for the culture of luraips and potatoes; both of which are here raised to a great extent. A great part of the soil in these parishes is either of this description, or of a deep rich clay. 11. — Civil History. Land'Otcners. — The chief land-owners of the parish are, the Marquis of Tweeddale : Robert Hay, Esq. of Linpburn ; Earl of Wemyss ; Miss Hay of Nunraw ; Mr Douglas of Garvald ; and Captain Hay of Hopes. Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers are regularly kept. The earliest date of the births and baptisms is 1694. The ses- sional records commence in 1721. Antiquities. — Adjoining the Lammermoor hills, are situated the ruins of Whitecastle, in the eastern boundary of the parish. In early times, this fortification was of considerable importance, as it guarded a pass from the Merse and from England. — About a mile to the north on the farm of Garvald, there is a large fortification or encampment, situated on a rising ground ; it is of a circular form, and is in circumference about 1500 feet in extent. — A little to the westward, on the farm of Carfrae, there was an encampment near- ly of the same form and dimensions. Several years ago, the stones of the encampment were dug up to enclose the farm. One of the workmen, in digging up these stones, found the brass handle of a sword, which probably had been concealed there for several cen- turies. — About two miles to the west, on the farm of Newlands, there are two large tumuli thrown up in the middle of a plain, called by the country people the Black castle and Green castle. The late Marquis of Tweeddale, many years ago, planted the spot on which they stood, with Scotch firs and some gray wood. To the west of these tumuli, there are two other encampments, — one on the farm of Park, and the other on the estate of Hopes. Mansion Houses. — There are only two mansion houses in the parish, Nunraw and Hopes. The house of Nunraw, some centu- ries ago, was a nunnery belonging to the priory of Haddington, and though modernized, still exhibits evident marks of great an- tiquity. An elegant house has lately been built at Hopes, by the present proprietor, and is pleasantly situated very near the bot- tom of a glen, and to the westward of one of the Lammermoor hills, on which there is an extensive and flourishing plantation of various sorts of trees. This plantation and several others upon the estate were raised by the late Charles Hay of Hopes, Esq. GABVALD AND BARA. 97 III. — Population. In 1801, tlic population was - 740 1811, ... - 666 1821, - - - - 707 1831, . - - - 914 It is remarkable that there has been such an increase of popu- lation, while many of the small farms have been united. The farm of Snowdon, consisting of about 1700 acres, and formerly covered with heath, is at present in a high state of cultivation, and produces excellent crops. The expense, however, at which it has been improved by Mr Bogue has been so great, that it may be doubted if he will receive any benefit from his judicious ameliora- tions of the soil, or even be reimbursed for his expenditure. His landlord, however, must afterwards reap great advantage from these improvements. It is on Snowdon where the population of the pa- rish has principally increased. Tht yttrly average of births for the last seven years is - - - 25 marriages ---.-« _-6 - - - deaths, --- -.- --15 Number of fiunilies m the parish, - - ... .184 chiefly employed in agriculture, • - . - 133 trade, manufactures, or handicraft, - SS IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Agriculture is the prevailing occupation in these parishes, — the farmers who rent the Lammermoor hills renting, at the same time, the adjacent low grounds to a considerable extent. The lands which lie on the north of these hills are mostly enclos- ed, and their agriculture is in a state of very high improvement. Lime, brought from the distance of four or five miles, is extensively used. Bone and rape manure have been, of late years, also much em- ployed for raising turnips. Draining has also been carried on to a great extent. Excellent crops of all kinds of grain are raised, but the most prevailing are those of oats and barley. Sheep, Sfc. — In winter, the number of sheep pastured in this pa- rish is about 7100 ; in summer, about the same at an average. The sheep usually preferred for the higher parts of the parish, or hilly pastures, are the Cheviot and black-faced. A cross between the Leicester and Cheviot is found to answer very well. Salving or smearing universally prevails here. About 300 black cattle have been annually fed on turnip, and sold to the butcher. Rent of Land, — The average rent of arable land per acre is L. ], 14s. on leases of nineteen years. The valued rent of the pa- rish is L. 4229, 4s. Scots. . HADDINGTON. i\ 98 HADDINGTONSHIRE. ProAget, — ^The sferage grosB amount of raw produce yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows: Oats, 760 acres, 5 quarters 2 bushels, from J8s. to 27s. Wheat, 350 do. SI to 4 quarters d6s. to 44s. Barlev, 450 do. 5 do. 23s. to 33s. Turnips, 600 do. I^ 3, to L. 6, per aere. Sown grass, 760 ditto. Almost all the sown grass in the parish is used as pasture. V. — PaBOCHIAL EcONOBfT. Villages. — There were formerly two villages in these parishes, Garvald and Bara. The village of Garvald contains 273 inhabit- ants. AH the houses (except two or three) are feus at the rate of L. 3 per acre, built by masons, wrights, weavers, &c In the vi- cinity of the village there is a freestone quarry of excellent quality. Inns. — There are three public-houses in the village of Grarvald ; besides these, there is an inn at Danskine, on the great road from Haddington to Dunse. Means of Communication. — No public conveyances pass through the parish. Nor is there any post-oflSce. There is a communica- tion by carriers from Dunse to Haddington one day in the weeL The length of the turnpike road in the parish is six miles. .The bye-roads, kept in good repair by the statute labour money, are about sixteen miles in length. The bridges and fences are kept in good repair. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated at the eastern ex- tremity of the parish, and very inconveniently placed for those who reside at the west end, — the distance being about six miles. It. is old but in good repair. An addition was built to it in 1829. The church now affords accommodation for 360 persons. The free sittings in the church are for 50 persons. The manse was built in 1820, and is in good repair. The glebe consists of 13^ acres. The amount of stipend is 9 chalders, 4^ bushels, and L. 30, 6s. in money. The number of communicants at present averages 254. Notwithstand- ing the distance of many of the parishioners from the church, it in remarkably well attended. Education. — There is but one parochial school. The school- house«was repaired about two years ago, and is now in a very com- fortable state. The schoolmaster's salary is the maximum. The number of his scholars is from 50 to 60. He is not qualified to teach- Latin. There is also an unendowed school in the village ; the num* ber attending it may be from 40 to 50 : and the fees are the same 3 OARVALD AND BARA. 99 as those taken at the parochial school He also is unqualified to teach Latin. Under fifteen years of age, there are very few, if any, who cannot read and write. Above fifteen years of age, there may be a few who cannot write, but none who cannot read. Po€T and Parochial Funds, — The number of poor upon the roll in this parish is 17; many of them live in their own houses, and generally receive from 12s. to L. 1 per quarter ; some receive less. This small allowance is granted only as an help to their in« dustry, not as an encouragement to sloth and idleness. There is not one beggar within the limits of these parishes. Occasional sup- plies are, besides, granted to other families, who by sickness and misfortunes are reduced to necessitous circumstances. The mo- ney annually expended on the poor of these parishes amounts to nearly L. 80. There is certainly a disposition among the poor to refrain from seeking parochial relief, as they seem to consider it degrading. Friendly Society, — A friendly society was established in this pa- lish at the beginning of the present year, for the purpose of afford- ing relief io the sick. There is also another society in the parish called the Gar\'ald Friendly Society, instituted in 1819, for the laudable purpose of raising a fund to relieve the distress of any member in the event of his cow dying. Each cow is insured to the amount of L. 10 Sterling. SqOember 1835. PARISH OF HUMBIE. PRESBYTERY OF HADDINGTON, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. JAMES MACFARLANE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish was formed soon after the Reformation by the junction of the parishes of Keith and Humbie» In the end of the seventeenth century, the parish of Keith was called Keith- Symmars ; and that of Humbie, Keith-Hundeley. The origin of the name Humbie, which they bear since their annexation, is un- known. Extent, Boundaries. — This parish is partly intersected, towards the S. W. extremity, by the parish of Fala. But supposing it con- tinuous, it is an oblong of 6 miles in length, from north to south, and 5 in breadth, — containing 19,200 imperial acres. It is bound- ed on the east by the parishes of Bolton aiid Salton ; on the north by Pencaitland ; on the N. W. by Ormiston and Cranston ; oa the west and south-west by Crichton and Fala; and on the south by the range of the Lammermoor-hills. Topographical Appearances. — These hills vary in their form, soil, and elevation. Some of them are almost entirely covered with short heath ; others are green, but interspersed with mossy bogs,*— some of which have been lately dried by open surface draining, to improve the sheep pasture. Lammerlaw, which is the highest peak of the whole ridge, may be reckoned 1200 feet above the le- vel of the sea. In other parts, the height of the summit above the level of the sea is from 800 to 1000 feet. The lower end of the parish is 350 feet above the sea level, and the base of the Lammei^ moors 600, — thus producing an elevation of 250 feet across the arable ground of the parish. In the higher parts of the parish the air is sharp and cold ; but in the lower, it is more temperate. The climate is peculiarly healthful. In the centre and northern parts of the parish, less rain falls than at Edinburgh, — the pluvial clouds HUMBIE. 101 ■ -being attracted on the one side by the mountainous range of Lam- ■mermoor, and on the other by the Frith of Forth. Hydrography. — There are three brooks in the parish, each having a stone bridge of one arch. All of them issue from the hills above named, at a little distance from each other ; and on reaching the valley, they take an easterly course, — when Keith and Humbie streams meet a little below the church : and nearly two miles below, they are joined by Birns-water, which from its source forms the eastern boundary of the parish. There is abun- dance of trout in these rivulets, some of which are of good flavour. The rivulets have a quantity and fall of water sufficient for ma- chinery. Mineralogy. — There seems to be abundance of iron ore in many places ; and there are also some appearances of coal, but none has yet been wrought, — as the contiguous parishes abound in good coal, -and also in limestone. The former is got for 9d. the load, the lat- ter for Is. 8d. per boll. The soil is very various; in some places, rich and loamy ; in some, light and sandy ; in others, clayey or mossy. Still, however, by skill and industry, it yields in general fair crops of turnip and every kind of grain. 11. — Civil History. Eminent Men. — Of the proprietors of Whitburgh, by far the most ancient family now resident in the parish, several were dis- tinguished for personal strength and courage, as well as for their liberality of disposition. Sir Adam Hepburn, a Senator of the Col- lege of Justice, early in the seventeenth century, was highly esteem- ,ed for his patriotic spirit and generous beneficence to the parish. *He built at his own expense the first bridge on Humbie-water, which still bears his name, and the date of 1645. He also gave in donation to the heritors to serve for a manse, — a house, which then stood close to the church, with about three Scotch acres of haugh and bank. Hugh Scott of Harden, a gentleman of extensive property and baronial hospitality, hitely succeeded to the Hep- bums of Humbie. Land^owners. — The chief land-owners are, the Earl of Hopetoun ; Sir Neil Menzies, Bart.; Hugh Scott, Esq. of Harden; and Andrew Fletcher, Esq. of Saltoun. Parochial Registers. — In former times, the parochial registers were very ill kept, — some of them having been entirely lost or de- stroyed ; they do pot reach further back than 100 years. 102 HADDINGTONSHIRE. Mansion-Houses. — Of modern buildings, the mansion of Mr Anderson of Whitburgh is the best It was built twenty-four years ago. Keith-house, one of the seats of the £arl Marshal, may be mentioned on account of what it once was, — having been a large and elegant building, according to the taste of the times, and suited to the splendour of a family then the most opulent aaid powerful in the kingdom. The timber with which it was built was a present from the King of Denmark, as a testimony of the high opinion which he had formed of the Earl when employed to treat concerning the marriage of the Princess Anne of Denmark with James VI. The ruins of a Roman Catholic chapel still remain in front of Keith House, with a cemetery attached to it, which is still used by some of the parishioners. Mr John Key nart, minister of Duffus, was vicar of Keith in the year 1595, when he sold' the living, which afforded twelve chalders of victual, and three husbands of land, for a mere trifle, to the Earl Marshal. All succeeding proprietors have kept possession of the lands. III. — Population. The population of the parish must once have been greater than at present, as some vestiges of several small villages may still be traced. Population in 1801, - . 785 1811, ... 837 1821, ... 837 1831, ... 875 The average number of iHrths for the last seven years is 15, of deaths 9, of marriages 7. There are 10 landed proprietors in the parish ; but only two of them are at present resident Their yearly rentals vary from L. 300 to L. 1500 Sterling respectively. There are 7 bachelors and 6 widowers, all upwards of fifty years of age ; and both taken together just equal the number of unmar« ried women above forty-five. ' t Kumber of families in the parish, ........ ]0O chiefly employed in agriculture ... . 12S in trade, manu&cturcs, or handicraft, • 21 It is a melancholy fact, that there are 8 insane persons in -one family, and one in each of two others ; but all of them are harm- leiss and inoffensive. The parents of these individuals are correct in their conduct and industrious, though they discover such a degree of mental imbecility as might indicate that the malady is hereditary. HUMBIE. 103 IV — Industry. Agriculture. — About 7000 acres are in a regular course of cul- tivation, and nearly 200 more might be cultivated along the face, and towardsthe base, of the Lanmiermoors ; but, owing both to the high climate and the difficulty of getting manure, these lands are very seldom ploughed ; and even when ploughed, it is chiefly for the sake of renovating the ^ras& There are in the parish about 2400 acres of hill and moor land. Humbie wood consists of 400 imperial acres of oak and birch with some beech and firs; and being contiguous to Salton wood, it presents a range of beautiful and extensive scenery to the travel- ler from the top of Soultra-hill. Plantations^ belts, and clumps on other estates extend to 100 acres more. Rent of Land. — The rent of arable land varies from L. 2, 5s. to 14s. per acre, which may make the average L. 1, 5s. The rate of grazing has greatly fallen of late years ; but hinds' cows are still rated at L. 5 for summer's grass and straw during winter. These are almost the only animals grazed at a fixed price per head, as farmers who have not sufficient pasture of their own take grass parks for the season. Tliese are now let at from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3 ; some years ago they brought from L. 4 to L. 5 per acre. This may be the reason for valuing the grazing of cattle breeding to be fed off on turnip, according to their different ages and weight, at the low rate of from L. 2 to L. 3 per head. On clover or good old natural grass, the grazing of a sheep is worth from 12s. to 16s., estimating its size and quality. Live-Stack. — Great attention has been given to the rearing of sheep, and improving their breed ; and the success has been pro- portional. The black-faced seem to be in less repute, and the Cheviot, or a mixed breed between them and the Leicester, is pre- ferred. Much improvement has also been made in the breed of cattle as well as in feeding them for the market. Husbandry. — At present, rape-dust is much used for raising wheat, and bones for raising turnip, where there is a scarcity of dung. But perhaps the greatest and most effectual improvement in husbandry has been the practice lately introduced of grazing the farm, in regular rotation, for two or three years. This county still retains its high reputation for agriculture ; but the farming capital is greatly diminished within the last ten years. Farm-houses and steadings are generally substantial and on a libe- ral scale. Great attention is bestowed on fences both by proprie- L.4690 2665 12 5876 8 671 4 1088 10 1716 - 770 13 4 1522 - 1077 60 300 ..20257 7 4 104 HADDINGTONSHIRE. tors and tenants. Hedges are raised at a great expense where the 5oil is unfavourable to them. Produce. — The following statement gives a fair average of the raw produce of the parish in ordinary years. The prices may be too high for the present year, but the unusually abundant crop will yield an equivalent. p 1850 quarters wheat at 54s. per quarter, - 1667 d^* barley at 32s. do., .... 4869 do. oats at 24s. do., ..... 357 do. pease at d2s, do., .... 31 10 bolls potatoes at 7s. per boll, ... 286 acres turnip at L. 6 per acre, 23120 stones of hay at 8d. per stone, ... 3044 sheep at lOs. each, - . . Cows and cattle at L.3, per bead, - - Gardens, - -.--.. Annual thinning and periodical felling of woods, &c. Total value of yearly raw produce, V. — Parochial Economy. Markets. — The two greatest grain markets in Scotland, Had- dington and Dalkeith, are nearly equidistant, each being about nine miles from the centre of the parish. Means of communication, — The cross roads to the latter town are heavy, having several steep ascents and declivities, till they reach the great line of road to England by Blackhills. These roads are kept in a tolerable state of repair, by statute labour ; but it is contemplated to put a toll-bar on the principal one, when it will be partly altered, and otherwise much improved. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is in the very centre of the pa- rish, (exclusive of the intersected part :) it is neat and substantial. It was built in 1800, and contains about 400 sittings, all of them free. The manse was built forty-seven years ago, and was then reckon- ed of the ordinary size; but in 1822 it received a considerable ad- dition. The glebe is small but of good soil. The stipend being all in grain varies from L. 250 to L. 300, according to the rate of the fiars. The church is well and regularly attended. The num- ber of communicants is from 280 to 300. There are two Episco- palian families in the parish ; and the number of Dissenting fami*^ lies is 15. Education. — There are two parochial schools in the parish, and both teachers are well qualified for their oflSce. They have the legal salary and accommodations ; but the school fees are small, — those of the one teacher being about L. 10 a year, — of the other, fibout L. 12. 4 HUMBIE. 105 Except in the extremities of the parish, which are near some neigh- bouring school, there are no individuals in the parish residing at an inconvenient distance from one or other of the above schools. In such circumstances, there is not one of the young capable of re- ceiving instruction that cannot read ; and generally they are taught to write and countMth a considerable degree of readiness and ac- curacy. Some are taught gratis, or paid for from the poor funds. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The poor funds arise from assess- mentSy collections, and interest, &c. The lying money amounts to L. 360 Sterling. The yearly amount of church collections is small) — ^the non-residence of the heritors, and the practice of legal assessment being unfavourable to that kind of charity. The amount of assessment is from L. 60 to L. 100 per annum; but on any pressing occasions, it is considerably more. The present num- ber of paupers on the roll is 18, and the allowance given them va- ries from 6s. to 10s. each monthly, — besides occasional aid given to industrious families in distress. As might be expected from the rural simplicity and distance of the people from scenes of dissipa- tion, (there being only one alehouse in the parish,) — they are sober and industrious, but perhaps less provident than in former times, and therefore soon brought to poverty when age or distress comes upon them. When thus pressed, they shew little reluctance to apply for parochial relief. Miscellaneous Observations. Forty years ago, the real rental of the parish was L. 2700. It is now upwards of L. 6300. The increase of produce with that of prices, also, till of late years, has l)cen nearly proportional. But this great increase of product is not owing so much to more land being in tillage as to the superior and more expensive mode of cultivation. Since the above period, the number of cattle and sheep fattened for the market has been more than doubled. These are not en- tirely fed on farm produce, but partly on draff, dreg, and oil-cake. But the present aspect of things is too likely to give a check to every expensive improvement. September 1835. PARISH OF SALTON. _* PRESBYTERY OF HADDINGTON, SYNOD Of LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. ROBERT KERR HAMILTON, A. M-, MINISTER. I, — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The origin of the name of this parish is somewhat doubtful, — though it has in general been ascribed to the fact of the ancient manor having been possessed during part of the thirteenth century, by Nicolas de Soulis or Soules, one of the competitors for the Scottish Crown in 1291, (and grandfadier of the celebrated Lord Soulis of border history,) from whom it is supposed to have been originally termed SouHstown, by abbreviation Soultown, and subsequently, by corruption, Saltoun, or Salton. Extent^ BoundarieSi Sfc. — The extreme length of the parish is 3^ miles ; in breadth, it varies from 2 to 3. The number of square miles of surface, however, does not probably exceed 8w It is bound- ed on the north by the parishes of Gladsmuir and Haddington ; on the east by that of Bolton ; and on the south and west by those of Humbie and Pencaitland, from both of which it is divided by the Salton and Tyne waters. In figure, it nearly resembles an oval, of which the greater diameter extends from north to south. The regularity of the form is, however, somewhat afibcted on the eastern side, by two extensive indentations formed by the parish of Bolton. Topographical Appearances. — From the western boundary, the land rises by a gradual ascent towards the south and east, until, at its highest point of elevation, called the Skimmer hills, it reaches the height of about 600 feet above the level of the sea. From this point, which is almost in the middle of the parish, the land again declines somewhat more abruptly towards the south, until it reaches the level of the Salton and Humbie waters. On the west and north, the ground wears the aspect of riph cultivation ; the thorn hedges, often interspersed with wild roses, are neatly and tasteful- ly kept; and the beauty of some of the roads is much increased by SALTON. 107 their being bordered by different kinds of trees planted in the hedge-rows. On the southern slope of the above-mentioned height, a wood* extends for upwards of a mile and a-half, skirting the edge of the boundary stream on the south, and uniting with the equally extensive woods of Humbie. It consists chiefly of fir, birch, and oak. Towards the south-east, the aspect of the country is less fertile in vegetation, and inferior in natural beauty. Tlie gene- ral appearance, however, of this part of East-Lothian is such as, from its agreeable diversity of hill and dale, does not render it un- worthy of the appellation of the " Northamptonshire of North Britain," by which the county has sometimes been characterized.f Meteorology^ Sfc. — The temperature of the atmosphere is equa- ble, and, in the higher parts of the parish especially, distinguished by its salubrity. Many instances of longevity at present exist, and in former times they appear to have been equally numerous. *' A tradition is preserved,'' says the author of the last Statistical Account, *^ that, some centuries ago, when the plague visited, with dreadful ravages, this country, Salton was the only parish in the east of Scotland which escaped : an exception imputed to the pu- rity of the air, and the smoke of the limekilns, which, it seems, even then abounded in the parish.'' The salubrity of the climate is probably chiefly owing to the deficiency of moisture in the soil, and this again may in great measure be ascribed to the fact, that the parish, occupying a moderately elevated situation between the high range of the Lammermoors on the one hand, and the waters of the Frith of Forth on the other, is frequently exempted, by being thus placed between these two sources of nebular attraction, from the visitation of those heavy showers, to which the high up- lands on the south, and the low districts on the north, are equally exposed. Hydrography. — The parish possesses many excellent springs of water, strongly impregnated with lime ; a circumstance which, it is behoved, conduces essentially to the health fulness of the inhabit- ants, and to the general salubrity of the district The Tyne and Salton waters are the only streams of any importance connected with the parish. The latter, for nearly three miles, forms its south- • " The green-sward way was smooth and good, Through Humbie's and througli SaltouiCs wood, — A forest glade, whicli varying still. Here gave a view of dale and hill, There narrower closed, till over head A vaulted screen the branches made."— 3f0mii(nf, Canto 4. -f Chalmers* Caledonia, ii. 400. 1 08 HADDINGTONSHIRE. ern and western boundary, and is then united with the Tyne. At their confluence, the Salton is decidedly the greater stream of the two, and ought with propriety to have imparted its designation to the future course of the river. In both of these streams there is abundance of excellent trout. Geology and Mineralogy. — Strata of limestone rock pervade the whole parish in a direction nearly north-west. The degree of in- clination of the strata varies from 1 foot in 9, to 1 in 18. Petri- factions of the ordinary species of shell-fish are frequently found imbedded in the limestone ; and in some places the surface of the rock is covered with stones of a silicious quality, which, when quar- ried, are used, with advantage, as flags for pavement In other places, the rock is found to be overlaid with bastard limestone, and, what is somewhat unusual, the strata of limestone are frequently divided from each other by conjoined strata of free and whinstoue. Under the strata of limestone, there is every reason to believe, from some experiments which were formerly made, that a fine seam of coal would be found. The immediate vicinity, however, of many excellent collieries in the adjoining parishes has hitherto render^ ed any attempt to work it unnecessary. The soil is various, consisting of loam, light sand, thin clay, and strong deep clay ; but the clay soils prevail. On the west and north-west, and alongst the slope of the hill which terminates in the bed of the Tyne, the soil is peculiarly fertile and productive^ being chiefly composed of the rich loam andclay. Towards the sum- mit of the central hill on which East Salton is situated, the soil is less favourable ; but towards the southern extremity of the parish, it again in some degree recovers its former richness. Botany. — There are various plantations in the parish, of the or- dinary species of trees found in such situations. The soil is deemed peculiarly congenial to the growth of fir and oak. Beech, elm, and larch are also found well suited to the soil and climate. In the grounds of Salton, which have many features of natural beauty, and are laid out with much taste, are some fine specimens of the thorn acacia, cedar of Lebanon, and hemlock spruce.* 11. — Civil History. Historical Notices^ Sfcl — The first authentic notice of the ma- nor of Salton occurs during the twelfth century, when it was held, alongst with other extensive possessions in Scotland, by the afflu- Thcre is an orchard mentioned as existing in the lands of Herdmanston so far back as 1190 — Charter of Richard de Morx^Ule to Henry St Ctair, referred to bv Chalmers in his Caledonia. ^ SALTON. 109 entand powerful family of the De Morvillcs, who were at this period the Constables of the kingdom. The lands of Herdmaustou lay within this manor of Salton, and were granted about the year 1 190 by Richard de Morville to Henry de St Clair, who then served the Monrille family as their Sheriff.* From him, the present noble proprietor of the estate of Herdmanston is descended, in the pos- session of whose family the property has thus been for upwards of six hundred years. On the accession of Robert de Bruce, the descen- dants of the De Morvilles were forfeited, they having, with the Eng- lish monarch, espoused the interests of Balliol ; and the St Clairs from that period became tenants in chief. During the reign of Alexander IIL (about 1260) the greater part of the manor of Sal- ton proper appears to have been possessed by William de Aber- nethy, son of Sir Patrick Aberncthy of that ilk. His descendants acquired, in 1445 or 1455, the title of Lords of Salton, being then in possession of very extensive territorial grants.f In this family the manor of Salton continued till 1643, — a period of nearly four hun- dred years from the date of their first occupancy, when Sir An- drew Fletcher, better known as Lord Innerpeffer, purchased from Lord Abemethy of Salton, the present estate, — of which his lineal descendant, Andrew Fletcher, Esq. is now proprietor. Eminent Characters. — With the parish of Salton many charac- ters of distinguished eminence have been connected. Of those to whom she had the honour of giving birth, William Dunbar, the celebrated poet, was long supposed to have been one. This opinion, first maintained by Allan Ramsay, and subsequently by Lord Hailes, has been adopted by the author of the former Statistical Account, naturally misled by the error of such eminent authorities. Subsequent and more accurate investigation, how- ever, has proved the opinion to be erroneous. It appears to have originated with Ramsay in a misprint of the words " Saltone Mount" for " Falcone Mount," in the well known lines of the " Fly ting of Dunbar and Kennedy," in which the residence of the former is sup- posed to be pointed at by his poetical adversary.:]: These words • Diplomata Scotiac, pi. 75. Chart. Glasgu. 163-5, referred to by Chalmers. •f- The present Lord Saltoun derives his title from this family, Upon the death of Alexander I/ord Abemethy of Sahon in iCCO, without issue, his title, &c. descended to his cousin, Alexander Frasor of Philorth, son of Margaret Abemethy, the only daughter of George Lord of Saltoun — Sec Cra-xford^t Fecragc. I The following arc the lines in question : Kennedy, after having expatiated on his own wealth) contrasted with Dunbar's poverty, is supposed thus to address him : ** 'lliy gcir and substance is a widdy tench, On Falcone Mount about thy craig to rax. . 1 10 HADDINGTONSHIRE. have since been satisfactorily shown * to refer to Mountfaucon ^in Paris, where Dunbar resided at the period of the composition of the poem. It is evident, however, from bis own language (" Fly ting," line 110,) that he was a native of one of the Lothians, and as he is generally supposed to have been the immediate descendant of Sir Patrick Dunbar of Beill in East Lothian, there is every pre- sumption that some part of the county of Haddington was the scene of his birth ; but as to what particular locality is entitled to claim this distinction there is no evidence whatever. Patrick Scougall, afterwards well known as Bishop of Aber- deen, was the incumbent of this parish for upwards of five years* He was translated from Leuchars, and inducted into the parochial charge of Salton, 29th January 1659. In April 1664, he was ele- vated to the bishopric, "f- Henry Scougall, his son, the author of the much and justly esteem- ed work " The Life of God in the Soul of Man," was bom at Sal- ton during his father's incumbency, some time in June 1660. Equal- ly distinguished by his superior talents, and his eminent piety, he attained at an early period of life to those honourable stations which are in general reserved for age and experience. At nineteen, he filled the chair of philosophy at Aberdeen ; four years afterwardsi he accepted the living of Auchterless, where he ably and zealously discharged the functions of the holy ministry ,* and after an incum- bency of two years, being then only twenty-five, he was again re- called to his academical pursuits, and for the remainder of his life filled the oflBce of Professor of Divinity in King's College, Aber* deen. His mortal career, however, though bright and useful, was And yet Mount Falcone gallows is oure &ir For to be fleyit wi* sic a feckless face." Montfaucon was then the common place of execution in Paris ; and it is to this that the allusion appears to have been intended. Dunbar*s chcef-d'o^vres are considered to be << The Throssil and the Rois,** de- signed to commemorate the union of James IV. with Margaret of England; '^The Goldin Terge," and the " Daunce of the seven deadly sins." He has been termed by way of eminence "the Horace of Scotland," and his genius and merit as a poet have been unreservedly eulogised by almost every critic. It is to be r^retted, however^ that the meed of praise which has so lavishly been bestowed upon bun has never been qualified by the consideration, that the tendency of many of his compositions is im- moral and even pro&ne ; and if it be doubtful whether he is entitled to be designated the Horace of his country, in point of poetical genius, there is unfortunatdy little doubt that, in point of licentiousness of sentiment, the appellation is too justly merited* * For a full and satisfactory explanation of this error, see Laing's edition of Dan^ bar*8 Poems, Vol. ii. pp. 429, 32, Edin. 1834, to which we are indebted for the statements made in the text. *f* During the period of his incumbency the eldership appears to have been much more numerous in proportion to the amount of population than in more modern times* From^ the kirk-session records it appears, that in 1663-65, when the number of the inhabitants of the parish was probably under 600| there were no fewer than thirteen elders in office. SALTON. 1 1 1 bni brief: he died in 1678^ having scarcely completed his twenty- e^ ghih jBttT. To him Leighton might truly have applied his fa- vourite adage^ ^ Dm xixU qui bene vixit" Superior^ however, as a character of pubUc eminence to either of the preceding, occupying a much more distinguished place in the history of the past, and still continuing to enjoy, by the la- bours of his genius and the recollection of his moral worth, a pro- minent station in the eye of mankind is the individual, who, as the immediate successor of Scougall, next filled the office of mi- nister of Salton. The name of Gilbert Burnett, Bishop of Salis- bury, is calculated to shed a lustre, not only on that humble spot which formed the first and early sphere of liis ministerial labours, but on the country which gave him birth, and on the age in which he lived. Distinguished as he was by the remarkable vigour of his understanding, the unblemished integrity of his character, and the unequalled moderation of his public conduct^ he was eminently suited to the circumstances of the times in which his lot was cast, and peculiarly qualified to discharge those delicate and important duties, which, in after life, and in a more elevated station, frequent- ly devolved upon him. * He was admitted minister of Salton, the 29th of January 1665, having been presented to the living by the Crown.f During his incumbency, he was most assiduous in the performance of his pas- toral duties. He preached twice every Sabbath, and once during the week. In the important duty of catechising and examining his flock from house to house, and of administering spiritual conso- lation to the sick, he was equally exemplary and assiduous. He • Wodrow, after having adverted to him as one of Bishop Leighton's " evange- iMtf^'who were selected for their peculiar mission, on account of their " fame, learn- ing, and preaching gifts,'* speaks of him as '^ Mr Gilbert Burnet, well known to tlic world sioce, first Professor of Divinity at Glasgow, and after that persecuted for his appearing against Popery, and for the cause of liberty ; and since the Revolution the learned and moderate Bisliop of Sarum, one of the great eye-sores of the highfliers and Tories in England, and a very great ornament to his native country.** — Church Hwtorj, Book ii. chap. 6. Tlie only circumstance which, on looking back calmly and dispassionately on tbe erentfl of the past, tends in any degree to diminish our admiration of this eminent man i> the fiict — in his case, perhaps, the result rather of circumstances than of choice —of his having acted so conspicuous a part in the unjustifiable and impolitic attempt of the Episcopal party of the time to force upon the people of Scotland a mode of fluth and worship, which the latter conscientiously deemed to be unscriptural, and which they too justly feared would lead to a spiritual usurpation of a still more un- hallowed character. J Sir Robert Fletcher, through whose influence the appointment was obtained, wished him to accept of it nearly a year before, when it became vacant by fleoiigall's elevation to the Episcopate ; but Burnett declmed the offer, and going to Holland, spent the interval at Amsterdam in studying orienul literature and theology. 1 12 HADDINGTONSHIRE. is stated generally to have preached extempore, having, by diligent practice, acquired the power of speaking with great fluency and correctness. Arguing, however, from the character of his written productions, which are in general rough and careless in point of composition, his style of speaking was probably never characte- rized by eloquence. He left Salton, as appears from the kirk -ses- sion records, on the 18th November 1669, having been called to fill the chair of Theology in the University of Glasgow, the duties of which he discharged with approved fidelity. When elevated to a more eminent station in the church, he was not unmindful of the interests of that parish which had witnessed his early labours. He bequeathed in trust to the Lairds of Salton and Herdmanston, and to the minister for the time, the sum of 20,000 merks, to be applied in different sums as follows : for the educa- tion and clothing of thirty children " of the poorer sort ; " for the erection of a new school-house, and affording a perpetual augmen- tation of the schoolmaster's salary ; for the increase of a library which had already begun to be formed " for the minister's house and use;" and the remainder for relieving the wants of the neces- sitous poor.* The particulars connected with the present appli- cation of this fund are stated below, f By this generous bequest * The language in which, in the codicil containing this bequest, the bishop ex- presses himself, affords a i)leasing evidence that the lofty elevation which he had then attained had not taught him to forget the humble scene of his '* first love.** — « This course," he adds, after having prescribed the particulars of the destination, " I order to be continued for ever, as an expression of my kind gratitude to that parish who had the first fruits of my labours, and among whom I had all possible kindness and encouragement." •j- The present value of the bishop*s bequest is L. 2000 Sterling, which being in- vested on heritable security at four per cent., yields annually the sum of L. 80. This sum the trustees allot as follows : For the clothing of the thirty children, about, - - - L. 35 Allowed to the schoolmasters for their education, - - - 26 Books, stationery, &c. and other incidental expenses of education, - 4 For the necessitous poor according to the bequest, - - - 10 For the increase of the manse library, -.-.. 500 L. 80 As the expense of clothing has been found in general to exceed the above amounty its issue has occasionally been suspended for a year, and the surplus, where any exist- ed, applied to the department of education ; and as it is believed, that the interest of the bequest will in future be required to be reduced to 34 per cent thus mak- ing the annual proceeds only L. 70, the above arrangement will probably become permanent, and the children be clothed only every alternate year. In order to qualify fcr admission on the fund, the parents of the children who are applicants must have resided for not less than two years in the parish. According to the pro- visions of the will, the lairds of Salton and Herdmanston and the minister of the pa- rish for the time, nominate. Every child enjoys the benefits of the fund for four years. A list of their attendance at school and church is accurately kept, and if any great ir- regularity in these respectft, without suflficient cause, has taken place, the de&ulter is either struck oif the list, or, as a mitigated punishment, deprived of clothing in fbture. SALTON. 113 tbe memory of the good bishop is still perpetuated in the pa- rish. The children on the fund are familiarly termed " bishops ; " and the gallery in church appropriated for their use has receiv- ed, and is ever likely to retain, the appellation of " the Bishop's laft." Burnett lived until 17 15, having then filled the see of Salisbury for nearly twenty-six years. Salton was also the birth place and residence of another character of distinguished eminence. The celebrated Andrew Fletcher, the intrepid assertor of the civil and religious independence of his coun- tiy, was bom here in 1653. His father, who died while his son was yet in early youth, committed him, on his deathbed, to the guar- dianship of Burnett, then minister of the parish, from whom it is supposed the young patriot first imbibed those liberal sentiments on government which he ever afterwards avowed. In them, how- ever, he seems subsequently to have outstripped his teacher. The character of this undoubtedly great man has been variously repre- sented : by some he has been described as a rank republican, whose projected limitations of the royal prcrogjitive were only designed to lead to the erection of a Scottish commonwealth, and whose opposition to the union was prompted by selfish and interested motives. By others, he is represented as a man of pure and dis- interested patriotism, whose sole object was to maintain the liber- ties of his country on a constitutional basis. This is not the place to attempt to adjust the merits of the controversy. His sentiments unquestionably, verged towards republicanism, but to this extreme they were naturally led to tend, from the impression he entertain- ed, that the opposite and equally dangerous extreme was more like- ly to obtain the ascendant. The purity of his motives and the integrity of his conduct are unquestionable. His anticipations of evil as the result of the union, subsequent events have happily shewn to be fallacious. * He died at London in 1716, on his way from France to Scotland, whither he had fondly hoped to have ar- The children, however, are mostly exemplary in their attendance, and only one or two initanccs of the infliction even of the lesser penalty have occurred, llierc are at pre- sent on the fund sixteen male and eight female children, varying in age from seven to fourteen. • From an MS. in the library of the late Thomas Rawlinson, Esq., first published in the edition of Fletcher's Political Works, printed at Glasgow in 1749, we quote the following brief and somewhat quaint description of his personal ajipearance : " A low thin man, of a brown complexion, full of fire, with a stern sour look, and fifty yean old.** HADDINGTOM. II 1 1 4 HADDINGTONSHIRE. rived before he breathed his last His remains were subsequently brought to Scotland by his nephew Lord Milton. The ashes of the patriot now repose in the family vault below the aisle of Sal- ton Church. Andrew Fletcher, the nephew of the patriot, better known as Lord Milton, was also a native of Salton, being born there in 1692. He adopted the profession of the Bar, and rose rapidly through the inferior gradations of oflBce to the elevated situation of Lord Justice- Clerk. This office he held during the troublous period of 1745, and is admitted, on all hands, to have discharged its delicate and trying duties with singular lenity and forbearance. * He died in 1766 : and his remains are likewise deposited in the family vault. Chief Land-owners, — These are the following, Andrew Flet- cher, Esq. of Salton, who possesses nearly four-fifths of the land in the parish ; Lord Sinclair, proprietor of the estate of HerdmanstoD, and the farms of Greenlaw and Wester Blance; the Earl of Haddington, proprietor of the farm of Samuelston Mains, a small part of the Samuelston estate, which lies chiefly in the adjoining pa- rish of Gladsmuir ; and the Earl of Dalhousie, proprietor of the lands of Easter Blance (anciently Blanes,) which form part of the adjoining estate of Coalston. Parochial Registers, — The records of kirk-session consist of several volumes, commencing with the 27th April 1635, and con- tinuing to the present day, with the exception of a hiatus ex- tending from 1642 to June 1663, and another from 1748 to No- vember 1759. During the latter period, the deficiency is chiefly in the minutes of kirk-session proceedings; the register of baptismsy marriages, and burials being, with a few exceptions, regularly kept In the earlier portion of the records, very minute details of paro- chial transactions are inserted. The texts of the ministers' ser- mons are noted down each Sabbath. If he were absent, the place where he was officiating is mentioned, as also the name of the • Wc quote from the last Statistical Account the following remarks on his dia- racter, which we believe to be just : " The conduct of almost the whole public affiun of Scotland fell upon him, and these he managed with such an uncommon degree of discretion, temper, and moderation, that the impetuosity of wanton punishment was restrained, and lenient measures adopted in fiivour of those, whom indiscretion or ig* norance had betrayed into hostility. He overlooked many of the informations whicii were brought to his office ; and it is stated here from the best authority, that, after his death, many scaled letters, containing such information, were found unopened among his other papers. With the same patriotic views, he engaged zealously in the abolition of heritable jurisdictions, which had long been inimical to order and to justice. With unremitting ardour he pursued every scheme that could promote the trade, manufactures, agriculture, and reforming of his country." 4 SALTON. 115 dergyman who acted as his substitute at home. Many social of- fences, of a much less serious nature than those which now gene- rally form the subject of church discipline, appear to have been Tinted by the censure of the kirk-session ; and rebukes in the pre- sence of the congregation, even for such comparatively trivial de- linquencies, seem to have been universal. AtUiquUies. — In the south-west part of the parish, and close to Uie brink of the stream, are the remains of an enclosure of an oval fonn, supposed to be a Pictish or Danish camp. It consists of two walls or dikes running parallel to each other, and having be- tween them a fosse, now almost 6lled up, of about 10 yards in width. The circumference of the inner inclosure may be about 500 yards. No tradition exists by which any light is thrown on the history of this remnant of antiquity. In the park at Herdmanston, and close to the present mansion- house, are the remains of part of a chapel erected in the thirteenth eentury by John de St Clair. All that now exists of this ancient building is a portion, apparently of its western extremity, measur- ii^ within the walls, 30 feet in length, by 14 in breadth. A part of the eastern end appears to have been recently removed, and the gable rebuilt with fresh stone. It is now used as the burying vault of the Sinclair family. Within, are two flat tombstones co- vering the remains of William de St Clair, and Sibilla, his wife, bearing date 1598. A few yards to the north of this cemetery is an old arch, a fragment obviously, of the ancient castle of Herd- manston, having the date on the keystone. Herdmanston is now, and has for many years, been occupied by the Honourable Adam Gillies, one of the Senators of the College of Justice, the noble proprietor himself residing almost entirely in England. There are no documents in the possession of resident individuals which are calculated to illustrate the antiquities of the parish it- self. There is, however, in the charter- chest of the Fletchers an interesting historical document, to which I cannot forbear advert- ing. It is the original letter written by the Marquis of Argj'll to his son, on the morning of his execution. Its brevity, indepen- dently pf its intrinsic interest, will justify me in inserting it at length below.* . * M DiABi Jam KS, Edr. Castle, 30//i June [ \G]a5. " LfCarn to fear God : it is the only way to make you happic here and herMfter. Lore and respect my wife, and hearken to her advice. 'I1)c Lord bless am, your loving Father," (Signed) "Argvi.l." 116 HADDINGTONSHIRE. III. — Population. In 17^^« the population amounted to . 761 1791, .... 830 1801, .... 768 1811, . . . . 814 1821, . . . . a34 1831, males 386, females 396 784 1835, . 390, . 400 790 From the preceding statement, it appears that the population has been very fluctuating in point of numbers. The rapid dimi- nution of nearly eight per cent, between 1791 and 1801, is ac- counted for by the removal, during that period, of several public works, which employed a large number of operatives ; and also by the consolidation of some of the smaller farms into large ones. The large increase from 1801 to 1811 is explained by the fact of a different family, with a household of forty persons, then occupying the mansion-house of Salton. The decrease between 1821 and 1831 is also explained by the circumstance of Mr Fletcher's house having been rebuilt during the former period, and a large number of artisans of different kinds having been then domiciled in the pa- rish. In the village of East Salton there reside In that of West Salton - - - In landward parts of the parish. Total, - 390 400 790 The following is the distribution of the population in respect of age, &c. Single, Married* Widotced. Age, Mahn, Females. Males, Females, Males, Females, TotaL Under 15, 155 147 302 15 to 30, 85 87 12 17 1 202 30 to 50, 13 15 67 67 3 3 166 50 to 70, 1 4 35 36 5 7 88 Above 70, 3 9 3 5 10 dO Total, - 254 256 123 123 13 21 790 Yearly average of births for the last four* years, - - _ IJ Do. deaths seven - - . loA Do. marriages do. ... 5! Tlie number of families in the parish, - - - . ]7l chiefly employed in agriculture, - . 54 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 43 Belonging to the parish there is one insane person, in confine- ment at a private asylum in the neighbourhood : 2 fatuous, and 1 blind, who are resident. There are 3 families of independent fortune who reside in the parish. Of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and up- wards, there are 4, — being the heritors before-mentioned, one of whom only, Andrew Fletcher, Esq. of Salton, is resident. • For some years previous to this period the baptismal register was not accurately Males, Fefnales, TotaL 140 134 274 88 98 1P6 162 168 330 SALTON. 117 Habits and Cluiracter of the People^ §*c. — The general charac- ter of the people, in a religious and moral point of view, is on the whole exemplar}', and may be considered as above mediocrity. Within the last few years, from the period of the incumbency of the present minister's predecessor, a very beneficial change is said to have taken' place in the moral and religious habits of tlie lower orders. The young are in general well-grounded in the principles of religion ; docile in receiving instruction ; and civil and respect- fill in their manners. The inhabitants are in general attentive to the outward observances of religion, especially in their attendance on divine worship. Family worship is not, however, so much ob- served as it ought, and as we trust it may yet be. Intemperance is by no means frequent ; and for some time past the parishioners have, ahnost universally, abandoned the practice of using any spe- cies of liquor at funerals, — a resolution for which they deserve the greater commendation, as itsadoption originated entirely with them- selves* No crimes of a public nature have for years been commit- ted ; nor has the parish for some time past been found to require any constable or police officer within its bounds. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — In an economic point of view the parish may be regarded as exclusively agricultural; there being now no public works within its bounds, and the only kind of handi- craftsmen and artisans whom it supports being those whose la- bours are either indispensably required by the necessities o the population, or are directly subservient to the purposes of agricul- ture. The following statement of the agricultural economy of the pa- rish does not pretend to strict accuracy, but may be regarded as making a tolerable approximation to the truth. Imperial ]\It:iisun\ Number of acres cultivated, or occasionally in tillage, - - - 2.59(> in permanent pasture, ----- 150 under wood, chiefly artificial, ----- 4*J0 There are twelve farms in the parish, varying in extent from 100 to 500 Scottish acres. Rent of Land^ S^-c. — The rent of land ranges from L. I to L. 3 per Scottish acre. The average rent of grazing is at the rate of L. 3 for an ox, and L. 5 for a cow. Twelve or fourteen score of sheep are generally kept at grazing for the market, or domestic use. 1 18 HADDINGTONSHIRE. Rate of Wages^ ^c. — The rate of labour for farm and other la- bourers is in summer Is. 8d, per day ; in winter Is, 6d, ; females employed in the field receive m general from 8d, to 9d. per day. The wages of shearers in time of harvest have, for the last ten years, varied from Is, to 2s. 6d, A large portion of the male in- habitants are employed as farm-servants, or, as they are provincial- ly termed, hinds. These hinds receive no stated daily wages. They are allowed from L.8 to L. 10 per annum in money; a cow's keep, equal to L. 5 ; potato-ground, and a certain Weekly allowance of oatmeal, barley, pease, and corn; in all, their yearly income, may, when reduced to money, amount to about L. 23, Twenty days' shearing is the amount of their house-rent. The wages of artisans, &c are as follows : carpenters per day, from 2s. to 2s. 6d. ; masons from 2s. to 3s. ; coopers, 1 4s. to 15s. per week; blacksmiths, 16s. ; bakers, 6s. with bed and board. The price of a full-mounted cart fit for use, L. 10 ; ploughs, L. 3, 3s. to L.3, 10s.; wooden harrows per pair, L. 1; do. iron per do. L.3. Husbandry. — The system of husbandry pursued in the parish is, in general, in accordance with the most approved principles adopt- ed in this highly agricultural county. The farming of the prin- cipal part of the arable land is conducted according to what is technically termed the four-course shift, viz. fallow, wheat, grass, and oats, in successive annual rotation. In some soils, what is termed the six-course shift is used, consisting of the following suc- cession; fallow, wheat, grass, oats, pease or beans, wheat or oats: and recently the five-course shift, consisting of fallow, wheat, two years grass, and oats, has been adopted apparently with much suc- cess. In these several rotations, the term fallow is used as includ- ing partial crops of turnip and potato. Turnip husbandry is not carried on to a very considerable extent, — the ground not being al- together suitable for their cultivation. At present, the quantity of land under this species of culture may amount to about 100 acres. A portion of the turnip crop is raised by the aid of bone-manure and rape-cake, which are now more universally employed than for- merly, and to a considerable extent supersede the use of lime. About one -half of the turnips are eaten ofi* the ground by sheep; the remain- der are removed for the uses of the farm-yard. The ground was in former times generally drained according to the old system ; but furrow draining has been lately introduced, and is now universally adopted, apparently with the most beneficial results. For this pur- salton. 119 pose, tiles are cliiefly employed, being supplied by a manufactory recently erected in the parish. In some places, liowevcr, owing to the vicinity of excellent quarries, stones continue still to be used for purposes of drainage. The general duration of leases is for nineteen years. Farm buildings are in general in an excellent condition. They arc built of freestone, and chiefly tiled, as, indeed, arc almost all the build- ings of this character in East Lothian, as well as the dwellings of the peasantry. The enclosures and fences are good and sufficient, and neatly kept, one-half of the expense being defrayed by the landlord, and the other half by the tenant. Quarries* — There are in the pjirish two limestone quarries, each yielding an excellent material, with lime-kilns at both, built on the most iqpproved principle. There is also a freestone quarry for the use of tlie estate of Salton, which yields a good stone for building, though somewhat of a reddish tinge. All the quarries are wrought in the usual way. The average number of men employed in the lime-quarries and kilns is about twenty-five. Manufactures. — In former times, many public works were in ope- ration in the parish, which now no longer exist. In the beginning of the last century, the first mill for the manufacture of decorticated^ or as it is familiarly termed, /;o/-barley, that was ever known in Scot- land was erected in this parish. About the same time also, the first manufactory for the weaving of Hollands in Britain was established here: and both these arts were long exclusively practised, to the great emolument of the inhabitants, who supplied the whole of Scotland with these important articles. The introduction of these manufactures was owing to the ingenuity and zeal of the lady of Henry Fletcher of Salton, who, for the purpose of acquiring the secret of these arts, travelled in Holland with two expert mechanics in the dis- guise of servants, by whom models of the machinery were taken, and afterwards applied to practical use. In the year 1750, also, the first bleachfield, belonging to the British Linen Company, was form- ed here under the pat ronjige of Lord Milton. " During his Lordship's life it was conducted with much spirit : no expense was spared in procuring from Ireland the most expert workmen, and it became at last so very flourishing as to afford employment to upwards of 100 persons.*'* Subsequently to this, a paper-mill, and a starch-work were erected in the parish, each of which, at the period of the pub- * Former Stntistical Accics of bear : and 22 Ik>11s, 1 firlot, 1 peck. ■nd 3 lippies of raeal. In 1705, it amounted to L. 84, lOs. Od., and in 1798, to L. 155^ Ss. 8d. Sterling. In the ancient T^ixai'w the church of Salton was rated at thirty merks. The following is a list of the incumbents of the parish of Salton as far back as I have been able to trace them. In 1468, when the church of Salton was attached to the Ab))ey of Dryburgh, the incumbent appears to have been a person of the name of Dewar, who also held the of- fice of dean, as he is termed, (Pari. Records, 343-r)3) <^ Dene Dewar." From this period till the era of Presbytery, I have not been able to trace any of my clerical pre- decessors. After the Reformation no stated minister ap))ears to have l>een appointed till about the beginning of the seventeenth century. Until that period, it would ap- pewTy from some incidental notices in the records of Presbytery, that the minister of the adjoining parish of Pencoitland had some share in the pastoral sui)eriiitcndencc of Salton. It is unquestionable that, in IGOl, Sulton was still without a regular mi- nister, as in the instructions given by tlie presbytery to their commissioners to the Assembly for that year, there is one obviously referring to " unplanted kirks,** in tliese words, *< Saltoun kerk to be remembcrit." it is probable that the first incumbent af« ter the Reformation commenced his ministry about 1003 or IGOti. From that pe- riod the succession is regular. 1606 (about) Archibald Livingstone : died, August 1G32. 1G33, Jan. 2, Richard Brown : deposed for speaking against the Covenant, 1(344. lG4(i. Sept. 23, Archibald Douglas translated from Baro : died 16o8. ]65f), Jan. 29, Patrick Scougall, translat- ed from Leuchars : translatetl to Bishopric of Aberdeen, April 1G(j4. 1665, Jan. 29» Gilbert Burnett : translated to Glasgow, Nov. 16G9. 1G70, April II, James Graeme : demitted his charge by refusing to subscribe tlie Test Act, Dec. 1681. 1084. *t* Au- gust, Archibald Douglas : died March 169G. 1690, Sept 24, Archibald Lundie : died 4th Nov. 1759. 1760, Nov. 6, Patrick Bannerman, translated from Kinnoul : died Slst Dec. 1790. 1791, Sept. 22, Andrew Johnston : died 23d Sept. 1829. 1830, April S2, Robert Buchanan, translated from Gargunnock : translated to Glasgow, 13th Aug. 1833. 1834, April 10, Robert Kerr Hamilton. ■f- From December 1681 to January 1083 there was no public worship in the church of Salton. At the latter date Mr Douglas was admitted interim preacher, which office he fifled till his ordination. 1 24 HADDINGTONSHIRE. The whole adult population, with the exception of thirty per- sons, arc members of the Established Church ; and of these thirty, five are Episcopalians, who regularly attend the parish church. Divine service is in general numerously attended ; and although, as mentioned above, the amount of church accommodation is more than what is legally required, yet, so exemplary are the parishioners in this outward observance of religious duty, that the church is not at present suflBcient to accommodate all who are in the habit of at- tending. During about half of the year, there are two diets of pub- lic worship every Sunday ; during the remainder, there is one of somewhat longer duration. There are, besides, services on week- days, amounting, in the course of the year, to about thirty. The average number of communicants admitted at each of the three last half-yearly celebrations of the sacred ordinance is 7, The present gross amount is 306. The sacrament has, for the last four years, been dispensed twice a-year, on the first Sabbaths of February and July. The brief period of the incumbency of the present minister does not permit him to form any extensive average in regard to the amount of charitable collections. During the last sixteen months, there have been two congregational collections for religious and benevolent purposes, the average amount of each of which was L. 9, 7s. Religious Societies. — There are two societies in the parish for the promotion of religious objects. One, based on principles of a catholic nature, has for its object the dissemination of evangelical religion at home and abroad, irrespective of the interests of sect or party. It is yet in its infancy, having been instituted only du- ring the present year. Its annual income cannot, therefore, be estimated, but the number of its members is considerable, and daily increasing. The other is of longer standing, and has been more exclusively employed in promoting the interests of dissent ; it has latterly been on the decline, and has now few supporters in the parish. Education. — There are two schools in the parish. Of these, the parochial school is situated in the village of East Salton, the cen- tral point of the parish. The branches of education taught in it are, English, English grammar, geography, history, arithmetic, writing, French, and Latin. All these departments of education are con- ducted by the parochial teacher with ability and eflSciencv. The 3 SALTOX. 125 expense of education per quarter is, for Encrlisli and grammar, &c. ds. with the addition of writing and arithmetic, 5s., and with that of Latin, 6s, TTio parochial schoohnastcr's cmohuncnts as teacher are, from Bishop Burnett's fund, L. 6 ; legal salary, L. 84, 4s. 5d. ; school fees, &c. L. 20; three roods of ground, L. 2; total L. 62, 4s. 5d. The other school is situated in the village of West Salton. The branches of education taught in it are English, English grammar, arithmetic, writing, book-keeping, and the elements of land-survey- ing. These branches of instruction are likewise well taught. The expense of tuition is the same as in the parochial school. The teacher's emoluments are, from Bishop Burnett's fund, L. 20 ; school fees, L. 20 ; per centage as heritors' clerk, L. 8 ; one and a-balf acre of land bestowed by the late General Fletcher, value L, 4, 10s ; total L. 52, lOs. The school-house at West Salton is a neat and spacious build- ing, erected by General Fletcher about thirty years ago. The parish school-house is not so large nor so commodious, and would require to be considerably increased in size. The parochial teach- er's house possesses the legal accommodation. In each of the schools, in addition to the above-mentioned branches of educiition, the Holy Scriptures are daily read, and the Shorter Catechism taught. The meetings are opened and closed with prayer. The following is the state of attendance. E. Siilion, W. Salton, Total. MHximum attendance, - - - 70 80 ]5() IVfinimum do. - - - - 58 Gfi 124 Average,* - 60 75 142 Proportion of mtfxtmMm attendance to population of parish, - 5^ Proportion of average do. to do. ... 5 i I am not aware that there is any inhabitant in the parish up- wards of fifteen years of age who has not been taught to read and write. Between the ages of six and fifteen there is none of either sex who cannot read, and only a very few who have not yet begun to be taught to write. There is a Sabbath school taught in the church, attended by 125 children. Of these, 30 are beyond the age of attendance at the day schools. If they be added to the numbers already men- tioned, the gross amount of young persons in the parish receiving • The reason wliy the averaj^c is stated higher than the medium between the maxi- mum and minimum', is !K»eause the maximum attendamce continues for a much longer portion of the year than the minimum ; to e!»timate which, therefore, a proportional- ly liigher average must he taken. 126 HADDINGTONSHIRE. instruction, daily and weekly^ will be 180: a large proportion to a population of 790, being at the rate of about 1 in 4j\ of the whole inhabitants. Libraries. — At Salton-Hall, there is a fine library of upwards of 5000 volumes, consisting of works of general literature, but containing few of more recent date than the middle of the last century. Amongst its literary curiosities, may be mentioned a small folio copy, of the original edition of " Locke on Human Understanding," with the words " Andrew Fletcher, from the Author," written on the title- page, probably either by the philosopher or the patriot Allu- sion has already been made to the library mentioned in Bishop Burnett's will " for the minister's house and use." It appears to have been originally commenced by a person of the name of Nor- man Leslie, probably about the year 1650. Who this person was, I have not been able satisfactorily to ascertain. A Norman Leslie, a preacher of the Gospel, is mentioned in the records of the pres- bytery of Haddington, in 1644, during a vacancy in the living of Salton, as the person whom, along with a Mr Mill, the congrega- tion wished to hear as candidate for the church ; but neither of these were permitted to preach. It is not improbable that this was the person in question, and as he appears from the presbytery records to have been well known to Sir Andrew Fletcher and the parishioners, we may suppose him to have been a resident in the parish or its neighbourhood, — who was interested in its welfare, and who, although not permitted to become its pastor, was generous enough to devote a part of his own literary possessions to the be- nefit of those who should in future enjoy that ofiice. In all the oldest volumes in the library his name is written, and beneath it the words oi>x a/tfp^^oxe^dwj, aXXa 'r^o6v/n,ui' Is it too fanciful, from this to conjecture that, during the long vacancy in question, he might have voluntarily and gratuitously ministered to the spirit- ual necessities of the parish, and have thus recorded his disinte- rested labours? But this is mere conjecture. At the time of Bishop Burnett's induction, the library appears to havo c*^*^' * .cd 145 volumes. From him, it received considerable adu^.tons; and from the year 1760, when his bequest first became available, it has been augmented by each successive incumbent, though, in some instances, it must be confessed, not with all the judiciousne^ of choice which might have been expected. It now contains 862 vo- lumes, consisting chiefly of works on theology, with some in clas- sics and history, and a few in polite literature. S ALTON. 127 About a year ago, a library was begun to be formed for the use of the SablMith scholars. It now consists of 130 volumes, chiefly of works of a religious character. They are eagerly read by the yooDg people, and in many instances by their parents also. It is to be hoped that, under the Divine blessing, this may be found a means of advancing the moral and religious welfare of the young, who appear in general, from the commencement of this little in- stitution, to have imbibed a greater desire for serious and profitable reading. A branch of the East Lothian Itinerating Libraries is also established in the parish. For the past year, the number of sub- scribers amounted to 22. Friendly Societies. — There are two societies of this kind in the parish. One, established upwards of thirty years ago, consists at piesent of 200 members, and has funds to the amount of L. 1000. Of this sum L. 700 are lent on private security at 4 per cent and L. SCO are in a bank at 2^. The annual subscription of each mem- ber is 6s. 6d. The present annual income of the society, there- fore, including interest and subscriptions, is L. 100, 10s. For the last year, its disbursements amounted to L.74, 18s. dd. The ave- rage number of individuals receiving relief is 23. The following is the scale by which its disbursements are regulated : In the first three months of sickness, the member receives 5s. per week ; for the next three,'should his illness continue, 4s.; for the three thereafter, 3b.; and for the remaining three, 2s.; and should his indisposition be protracted beyond the year, Is. 6d. a-week thereafter. On the death of a member, L. 2, 10s. are given for funeral expenses, and lOs. on the death of a child under twelve years of age. An allowance of 15s. per annum is bestowed on the widows of members as long as they continue unmarried. This society is in a very prosperous con- dition, and, as is evident from the number of members, has many contributors beyond the limits of the parish. The other society is formed on a somewhat different principle, but is not less popular than the former. It differs from the other in being a yejjyly and not a permanent association. Each mem- ber 8ubscril0r from Is. 2d. to 3s. 2d. weekly. The twopences form the Amd whence the members in distress are relieved, and at the end of every year, a general distribution takes place, when each member receives back the amount he has subscribed in shillings, and a portion of the surplus, if there be any, of the weekly pence. The society thus combines, in some measure, the principle of the savings bank with that of the friendly association. Its scale of 1 28 HADDINGTONSHIRE. relief is nearly the same as that already mentioned. Since Janu- ary 1827, when this association was instituted, till the present year, the number of its members has increased from 45 to 146. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of persons at present receiving regular parochial aid is 15, being at the rate of about 1 in 53 of the whole population. The average weekly allowance to each of these paupers is Is. 9d. For some years past there has been a re- gular assessment, the amount of which at present is L. 60, exclusive of L. 20 for the guardianship and support of a lunatic^ The amount of church door collections and mortcloth dues for the year end- ing April 1835, was L. 18, lis. iHd., and when to this is added the sum of L. 10 from Bishop Burnett's bequest, the whole an- nual expenditure for parochial purposes will be L. 88, 1 Is. 1 l^d. There does not appear to be, I regret to say, any reluctance or indisposition on the part of the poor to seek parochial aid. For- merly, I am informed, it was not so. At one time, it was difficult to get parents to solicit for their children the benefits of the Bur- nett fund, but now the number of applications in general exceeds that of vacancies ; and, with few exceptions, the s^me change has taken place in regard to the application for general parochial relief. The existence of a legally claimable provision will, it is to be fear- ed, tend everywhere more or less to produce its usual pernicious effects on the natural benevolence and moral independence of the people. Inns. — There are three persons in the parish licensed to retail spirits ; but there arc only two public-houses, neither of which, I am happy to say, have for some time been much frequented. Fuel, — The inhabitants are well supplied with this important necessary of life. Coals are cheap, and easily procured from the adjoining collieries, chiefly of Pencaitland. They cost, including carriage, 5s. 6d. per cart of 12 cwt. Wood is also not unfrequent- ly used for fuel. Mr Fletcher, with considerate kindness, per- mits the inhabitants of the parish who choose, — to gather fuel, at different times in the year, from the thinnings of the great Salton wood; a permission which often serves to cheer the poor man's hearth during the inclemency of winter. Miscellaneous Observations. The chief improvements in the agricultural condition of the pa- rish which have been effected since the date of last Statistical Ac- count (1792) are, — the introduction of the new manures, by which a much greater amount, as well as a superior quality, of produce 8ALTON. 129 is now raised ; the adoption of the improved system of tile-drain- ing; and the consolidation of the numerous small farms which pre- ▼ioiuly existed into a lesser number of larger ones. The fences and inelosures are also much better kept than formerly, and in no part of the country are they superior either in appearance or efficiency. Hie parish roads are Ukewisc greatly improved, and at all times afford a safe and easy means of communication. The comforts of the people have here, as elsewhere, been in- creased by the increased cheapness of the commodities in general requisition. In a moral point of view, the removal of the public works already mentioned has had its effect in altering, and in some degree, it is believed, in improving, the character of the popula- tion. The chief, and almost only social vice which still exists is that of illicit connexion — a vice, it is to be feared, unhappily pre- filent in almost all the rural districts of Scotland. The secon- dary causes to which, it appears to the writer of these remarks, the prevalence of this vice in this part of the country is chiefly owing, are, in the ^^^ place, the very inadequate accommodation afforded by the dwellings of the peasantry, few or none of which contain more than a single apartment, in which the whole members of the fiunily, although of opposite sexes, are obliged habitually to reside ; a circumstance, it is obvious, which must naturally produce a dis- regard to the modesty of domestic intercourse, and consequently lead to a relaxation of social morals : and, in the second place, the too general practice of employing young females in out-field work, where they are associated with persons of the opposite sex, and where unsuitable intimacies are too frequently eiisily formed. Both of these causes it is in the power of individuals almost entirely to remove ; and to the means of doing so the attention of the pro- prietor and the agriculturist cannot be too seriously directed. September 1835. HADDINGTON. PARISH OF ORMISTON. PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. JAMES BANNERMAN, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Boundaries^ Extent — The parish of Ormiston is bounded by Pencaitland on the east ; Humbie on the south ; Cranston on the west ; and Tranent on the north. It is about 5 miles in length, and very irregular in breadth, varying from 1^ to about \ mile; its narrowest part being on the eastern extremity ; and its broad- est at the centre. It contains an area of 5 square miles English, and has some resemblance to a horse-shoe winding about Pencait- land on the north, west, and south. Name. — It was originally possessed by a family of the name of Orme ; hence the name of the parish. In 1 648 the barony of Peaston, or Paiston, as it is uniformly written in the old records, was dis- joined from Pencaitland and annexed to Ormiston. Topographical Appearances, — The general appearance of the parish is flat and low. The extensive woods about Ormiston Hall, blended with those of the adjoining estate of Fountainhall, the patches of wood in different places, and the hedge-row trees over itii whole extent, give it a very rich and beautiful appearance. These circumstances, however, prevent that free circulation of air which is so favourable to the crops. Meteorology. — It appears, from observations regularly made by the gardener at Ormiston Hall In 1821-22, at 10 p.m. that the ther- mometer in December and January twice reached 31° each month, and was not lower in the course of the season. Its greatest height, that year, was in the beginning of June, when the thermometer stood for some days at 68" and 68 J°. It reached the same height about the end of July. Its range during the months of June and July, was from 49' to Q^\°. In 1822-23, the thermometer ranged for several days in the end of December from 24° to 29°, and from 12th to 28th January, from 22° to 30^. In June and July that year it ranged from 44° to 63°. Its greatest elevation was on 1 2th August, when it rose • Drawn up by the former incumbent, the Rev. John Ramsay. ORMISTON. 131 to64?. In 1827-28) the observations were made at nine o'clock a. m. and p. M. : (hat season, the range of the thermometer during the monthsof Decemberand January was from 28'' to 5 1^ It was seldom lower than d2°. Its range in June and July was from 46° to 68°, which was the highest point that season. The range of the baro- meter that year was from 28.5 to 30. But it was chiefly from 29. 1 to 29^ From a register of the winds kept at the same place it appears that, from 20th December 1822 to 29th January 1823, the wind was easterly, with the exception of six days. The most prevail- ing wind, however, was S. W. and W. In 1821 the wind was easterly in the months of April and May, but in the other months the south wind prevailed. In January and February 1828, there were three weeks of east wind, but in the course of the year the Su W. was by far the most prevailing. From that quarter, too, the greatest nuns usually proceeded. Hydrography. — The parish is every where well supplied with water,' abounding in springs of different qualities. Some of them contain a considerable quantity of iron. Others, proceeding from lime rock and gravel, are of a softer quality. Both of these kinds are found sometimes within a few yards of each other. It is wor- thy of notice, that in the village of Ormiston, there is a spring, which has been long used as a draw-well, containing a consider- able portion of iron. Several old men who were accustomed to use the water of that spring have been afflicted with gravel com- plaints, while such complaints are rarely met with in other parts of the parish. Whether, and how far the water contributed to these complaints, is a matter that yet remains to be investigated. The only river in the parish is the Tyne, which runs through it in a north-easterly direction. It rises in Middleton moor, in the parish of Borthwick, about eight miles to the south-west. When it passes Ormiston, it is but a paltry stream, the greater part of it in summer being drawn off* to supply the mill. It is occasionally swelled by westerly rains, so as to overflow its banks and cover the adjacent meadows. It is increased, in its progress, by the addition of several streams which fall into it from the south ; and, after a course of about twenty miles, flows into the sea a little below Tyn- ninghame, near Dunbar. The bed of the river where it passes Or- miston is upwards of 250 feet above the level of the sea. Geology aiid Mineralogy. — The parish abounds with coal and limestone. The coal has been wrought from a very early period, 1 32 HADDINGTONSHIRE. chiefly in the neighbourhood of Ormiston Hall. This appears from the sinking of the surface in different places. The ground on which the house stands has all been excavated : and in 1812, the ser- vants were, one morning, surprised at seeing a large hole close by the kitchen, which opened into a waste that extended 16 feet below the ground floor of the kitchen. With the view of examin- ing and clearing out this waste, a mine was cut through from the face of the bank, in the ravine called the Haining, close by the house on the north. When this mine in the course of operation was carried near the waste, a great body of water suddenly burst out and forced the miner before it at the risk of his life. The waste was cleared out and solidly built up, a drain being left at the bottom of the different branches of it, to carry off the water, — by which means the house and court were rendered quite secure. This operation required no less than 310 cart load of stones to com- plete it. On the south of the Tyne, there are three workable seams of coal, the uppermost of which is from 28 to 30 inches thick. It is not known at what time a large proportion of this coal had been wrought. The second seam is from 30 to 33 inches thick, and is of a good quality. Much of this seam is already wrought out, but there is still a portion remaining in the pleasure grounds, and the large wood to the south-east of the house. The third or under seam is from 33 to 43 inches thick, the working of which is at pre- sent going on under many disadvantages. The lower half of its roof is of weak tender blaes, which permit only very narrow rooms to be driven in the coal ; and one-half of the seam is fit only for lime coal. These seams have all along been wrought by means of a free level. The elevation of the coal seams is one in sixteen, towards the south-east. No pit has yet been sunk in the low ground near the river, although some of the best informed colliers are of opinion it might be wrought there tq great advantage ; and were, the projected line of road from Pencaitland to Whitehouse mill to be carried through, this change of the road would be at the same time beneficial to Ormiston, and profitable to the proprietor. On the north of the Tyne, within the parish, the seams of coal are all entire, except some cross workings of small extent, of which no record is to be found. In the year 1822, when a well was sunk in the south corner of a field occupied by the factor, close by the gfebe, a seam of coal 4 feet thick was met with, at only a few feet from the surface ; but no attempt has yet been made to trace it out. ORMISTON. 133 4 rocks abound towards the southern extremity of the pa- ly nmning nearly from east to west, and dipping towards the north. At what time it began to be wrought I liave not been able to ascertain. It appears, however, from an account of the paristi in 1627, that at that time it was not known that there was either lime or coal in the parish, or even in the neighbourhood.* Lime is BOW, however, found in great abundance, all along the direction from Salton to the western extremity of Crichton parish. In the louthem extremity of the parish of Ormiston, it has been wrought for a great number of years, and is gencndly found in eight beds in all about 15 feet thick. The bottom bed is usually found to be of an inferior quality. There is abundance of freestone in the parish. Several quarries of it bad been wrought at different times. One was opened a great many years ago, on the north bank of the glen, to the north of the House of Ormiston Hall. The stone of this quarry was very coarse and friable. From it, the manse and several other buildings were supplied with stones. Another quarrj- of post-freestone, at the western extremity of the parish, was opened in 1808. The rock of this quarry, which is composed of several strata, is 13 feet thick, and is harder, and of a finer quality than the other. From it, the proprietor is supplied with stones for carrjing on his buildings, and in particular, a great proportion of the stones em- ployed in the addition lately made to the House of Ormiston Hall were procured from this quarry. If we may judge from the quality of the springs, ironstone may be found in different places ; but no attempt has ever been made to discover itf Soil. — There is a considerable diversity of soils in the parish. A small breadth on either side of the Tyne consists of a light loam on a gravelly bottom. As you proceed from the river, it changes into a stiff clay upon a till bottom. Part towards both the northern and southern extremities of the parish is of a bleak and obdurate quality, but is gradually improving by cultivation. About the village the soil is a light loam upon gravel. In the same tract, westward, bounded by the Tyne on the south, and a small stream on the north, the middle and greater part of it is of a stiff clay, • •• ITie truth 'in, there is no other lyinestone, nor lymcoill wiUiin the parocho but that quhilk with great travcll they fetch coming and going eight myllej*." — Account of Ormiston 16*27, svc. 15. t The author m indebted for much of the information contained in the article gaologj, to Mr Scott, factor to the proprietor. 134 HADDINGTONSHIRE. and both sides of a light loam of a spungy quality. A similar va- riety of soils is to be found in the southern and higher part of the parish ; a great portion of which by good management has been brought from a barren moor to a state of high cultivation. On the western part of the parish, there is a portion of meadow land, . about ten acres on both sides of the Tyne, producing very good natural grass, which is first cut and then pastured. It would ap- pear, that, in ancient times, the inhabitants of Ormiston were sup- plied with meadow hay from that quarter ; for it is stated in the old Account already referred to, that they pay " zeirlie for their wester meadow haye, 280 merkeis." The present tenant at West Byres lately made an embankment where the river runs along his farm, to prevent its overflowing, and has ploughed up and sown the meadow ground. The experiment has not yet had sufficient time to shew its effects.* Botany, — The limits of this article will not admit of a particu- lar enumeration of the plants of the parish. A few, however, of the rarer kinds that are indigenous may be mentioned. These are Scolopendrium vulgare et officinale^ Iris Pseud-Acorus et fcetidissi" ma^ Cucubulus Behen^ Solanum nigrum et vulgatum^ Cardamine amara et pratensis^ Adoxa moschatellina^ Anemone nemorosa^ Put' monaria officinalis^ Viburnum Lantana, Sium angustifolium^ Epilo^ bium hirsutum^ Chrysanthemum segetum. Ormiston abounds with excellent gardens, in which all the com- mon fruits are to be found. When the house of Ormiston Hall was enlarged and fitted up for the Dowager Lady Hopetoun, who now occupies it, the half of the garden was taken away and convert- ed into a flower garden ; which garden has been well laid out by the present gardener, and contains above 500 species of herbaceous plants, above 110 species of evergreen and deciduous shrubs, and 270 sorts of roses, besides about 70 or 80 sorts of annual flower seeds, and a considerable quantity of Dutch flower roots. The garden at Ormiston Hall is chiefly taken up with fruit * Nothing is so hurtful to the crops in this parish as mildew. Whole fields last year were rendered almost useless, and not a season passes without more or less in- jury being done by it. It is confined to the lower district of the parish, and prevails chiefly in a range along the east, north, and west of the village, beginning at the Tyne, and sweeping in a circuit of about a quarter of a mile broad, round the vil- lage to the Tyne again. The prevalence of this local disease about the village of Ormiston has been ascribed to barberry trees, interspersed in the hedge-rows, and also to the confined situation, which is flat and surrounded with numerous hedge-rows 8 700 14(i llADDINCJTONSlllUE. inhabitants was about 600. From that time the popuhition has been constantly decreasing. This circumstance may be easily ac- counted for. About the middle of the last century, it had a bleach field, a starch-work, a brewery, and distillery ; now, there is no public work of any kind, and little employment for either trades- men or labourers. It is very healthy, and indeed may be said to enjoy every natural advantage for domestic comfort. Though not a market-town, it is not inconveniently situated with regard to markets, having Haddington on the east, at the distance of about 8 miles, Dalkeith on the west, at the distance of 6 miles, Edin- burgh, at the distance of 12 miles. Last winter a corn-market was established at Tranent, which may be of great advantage to the parish of Ormiston. By a late measurement^ the distance from the cross to the post-road at Tranent was found to be exactly 2 miles 2 furlongs and 152 feet. Although the village is well supplied with water, all the principal inhabitants having wells belonging to them, there is no good pub- lic well for the accommodation of the poorer clases. There was formerly an open public well in the wynd, which contained at all times an abundant supply of water ; but, to prevent the danger of children falling into it, it was covered up about ten years ago, and the water was conveyed by a pipe to the foot of the wynd. This alteration, in respect of the supply of water, has been prejudicial to the inhabitants. The cross stands in the centre, rising 15^ feet above the level of the street. Means of Covimunicatioiu — There is a post-oflice in the village, which is kept up entirely by the inhabitants, every family subscrib- ing a small sum annually, or paying something for every letter and newspaper. It communicates with the post-office at Tranent once a-day, and there receives the letters and newspapers from the Lon- don mail. The turnpike road runs through the parish from north to south for about five miles, and is twice intersected by the parish of Pen- caitland. About fifteen years ago, John Earl of Hopetoun, hav- ing procured a subscription, and added, himself, what was neces- sary to complete the work, got three small bridges erected upon the public road in the immediate vicinity of the village, one over a little stream to the north, called the Puddle-burn, where, in floods and meltings of the ice, the road was very much obstructed. The others were built immediately below the mill, about 20 yards dis- tant from each other, where the road was constantly covered by OUMISTOX. H7 the water coming from the mill trough, and in frost and the melt- ing of snows was hardly passable even by horses and earriatres. Foot-passengers used to go round close by the wall of the mill. The road between them and at both ends was raised to a level with the bridges. This formed one of the greatest improvements that had been made in Ormiston for many years. With the view of keeping the turnpike road in good repair, two additional tolls were erected, one at the church, the other about a mile south of Tranent. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated at the point where the roads from Ormiston and Paiston unite towards the west, about a mile and a-half south-west from the village, and also from the manse, which is in the village. It is within little more than a quarter of a-mile from the western extremity of the parish, three miles from the eastern, and two and a-half from the northern. The old church was more centrical. It was situate close bv the house of Ormiston Hall to the west ; and it and the church-vard were both within the orchard of the proprietor. And as Mr J^^in- clair states, in the account given inlo the Presbytery, in IG49, the inhabitants had no other way of getting into the church-yard than by the Laird's garden door. The church-yard also was represented as too small for the parish. The aisle attached to it is still stand- ing in pretty good preservation. Were a now church to be built, an excellent situation for it would be found on a field of flat hiorh land immediately to the west of the village. Its present situa- tion is very inconvenient for the minister and tlu* greater p;irt of the population, who are not nearer it than a mile and a-half. It was built in 1696, in a plain style, with a small belfry, and no ornaments. It is cold and damp, and very uncomfortable in winter ; but of late has been considerably improved. At first, it was only partially seated, families providing themselves with chairs and stools as they found it convetiient. The area in the centre of the church was in that state twentv vears at^o, — about which time it was filled up with good substantial pews ; and it was not till last winter that the seating was complete. It affords accommodation for 300 per- sons. The seats are all free ; some of them are appropriated to particular families, but a considerable ])roportion tire common. The church-yard is perhaps the smallest in the country, being only about 46 yards by 24, including the church and offering-house. An additional piece of ground wjis kept in reserve for it by the Earls of Hopetoun, but only a small part of it has been taken in. The soil is a retentive clav and verv wet. M or t -safes arc used for 148 HADDINGTON SHIHE. the protection of the dead, ami arc reckoned of a very good con- struction. The niansc is situate on the north side of the village, towards the east end. In 1779, during the incumbency of the late Mr Col- ville, the upper flat of the old manse was taken down, and two new flats were built upon it, with a projecting wing behind, 6f the same height with the rest of the building. The garden lies to the north ainl east of the manse, is inclosed with a stone wall, and stocked with fruit trees. There are two tall lime trees at the bottom, planted about the year 1680, by Mr Sin- clair, then minister of the parish, which are still in great vigour. The minister has the privilege of a road leading from the back- court^ round the garden to the glebe. That road was attempted to be stopped by the neighbouring feuar, but it was secured two years ago by a process before the Sheriff*. The glebe contains about 7^ acres of ])retty good land. Ori- ginally it lay all behind the garden, divided into three small fields. But about the middle of the last century, the remotest field, some of which was low and marshy, was excambed for another imme- diately to the east of the street of Ormiston, which is now the best part of the glebe. It is all inclosed, but the fences are getting old and insufficient. There is coal below it, at no great depth ; but for want of a level it cannot be wrought without an engine, and there- fore is not likely to be turned to any account. The stipend is ten chalders of grain, and L. 41, 13s. 4d. of money, with L. 8> 6s. 8d, for communion elements. From a want of teinds, it would not have been what it now is, had not James Earl of Hopetoun, sole heritor, allowetl it to be twice augmented during the incumbency of the late minister, that it might not fall below others in the neighbourhood. The last augmentation was given in 1808. There are no Dissenting meeting-houses in the parish. The number of families belonging to the Establishment is 168. There are 19 families belonging to the Secession, who frequent different meeting-houses, and a few are connected with no church. Some of the servants in families connected with the Establishment belong to Dissenting congregations, and vice versa. The average number of communicants for the last twelve years is 270. A parish Bible Society was instituted in 1817, the funds of which for some years, upon an average, have amounted to L. 6 a- year. While the greater part of this sum has been generally sent to the East Lothian Bible Society, a small part has always been ORMISTON. 149 given to the Edinburgh Missionary Society- A part of the funds also is reserved for purchasing Bibles and Testaments to the poor of the parish who need them. The ordinary collections at church amount to about L. 12 a- year; besides which, collections are occasionally made for religious and charitable purposes, amounting to about L. 15 a-year. Education. — There are, at present, three schools in the parish. — The parochial school in the village of Ormiston, the master of which has a salary amounting to L. 29, 18s. 9-^d. lie has also L. 1, 7s. 9^. of mortified money, with a house and garden. The house has two flats. The school occupies the under : the upper, which is divided into several apartments, serves for the dwel- ling-house. The garden being smaller than the law requires, the schoolmaster receives an adequate compensation for the defi- ciency. At present, the fees received amount to only about L. 15 a-year. But they may easily amount to more than double that sum. There is another school at Paiston, three miles south from tho parish school. It is of very long standing, being mentioned in the earliest records of the parish. The schoolmaster has L. 1, 5s. yearly of mortified money, a free house and school-house, and a small sum of money as a salary given gratuitously by the proprie- tor, — besides the school fees, which upon an average amount to betwixt L. 15 and L. 20 a-vear. A school was instituted two years ago by the Dowager Coun- tess of Hopetoun, at House of IMuir, a small village chiefly inha- bited by colliers. The schoolmaster has a free house, a small sa- lary from her Ladyship, and the school fees. It has succeeded re- markably well, and been of great benefit to the parish. From there being three schools in such a small parish, it is evi- dent the means of education must be accessible to all. None are precluded by distance from attending school, andifanyi)arentsare so poor as not to be able to pay for the education of their children, the school fees are jxiid for them. It is not wonderful, therefore, that there should be no children betwixt six and fifteen years of age who cannot read or write. Above that age, there are several who cannot write, but verv few who cannot read. But though much has, of late, been done and written to promote education, it does not appear that the schools in this neighbour- hood at least are actuallv more thriving than they were a centurv 150 IIADDINGTONSHIRK. ago. From the parish record, it appears that the schools of Or- niiston and Paistoii were both in a flourishing state about the be- ginning of the last century ; that great attention was paid to the in- struction of the young; and great care taken that parents should have their children educated. From the record, it also appears that, in 1683, there was a library belonging to the parochial school, con- sisting of 60 books in Hebrew, Greek, and Latin, as well as Eng- lish. It was then taught by Mr James Grierson, who was after- wards ejected from his oflice. About that time. Principal Carstairs received his education in the house of Mr Sinclair, then minister of the parish. Libraries. — For some years the parish has been supplied with itinerating libraries from Haddington. One is stationed at Ormis- ton, another at Paiston. They continue in their stations two years. They are then returned, and new ones are sent in their places. The great advantage of these libraries has hitherto been, that the books are lent out gratis, and the libraries are frequently shifted. A re- gulation, however, has just been made, that, during the first year of their station, payment shall be taken for the reading of the books. This circum^:tance has produced a desire among some of the people to have a parochial subscription library, which, if once begun and well supported, may become in a few years a great acquisition to the place. There is a library belonging to the Friendly Association or Rogue Money Club, instituted for the protection of property, — which is kept in the school-house under the charge of the master. This society originated in 1784, with some respectable persons residing in Or- miston and the vicinity, who formed themselves into a society for the purpose of preventing depredations and disturbances, and pro- moting the police and good order of the place. The Earl and Countess of Hopetoun were among the original subscribers. It has, however, very much degenerated from what it originally was, and is confined in its operations to the carrying on of prosecutions against those who have committed depredations upon the property of the members. A part of the funds has been laid out in the purchase of books, and in 1817 a portion of the subscription money was set apart for that purpose alone. The library now consists of about 100 volumes, which are lent out to the subscribers. Savings Bank. — An attempt was made eighteen years ago to establish a savings bank in the parish. Every thing was arranged OUMISTON. 151 upon the most favourable terms for receiving the little sums which the poor were able to spare for it. But a prejudice was excited against it, and it did not succeed. Poor. — The average number of persons upon the roll is 15, who receive upon an average about is. 9d. a- week each. Some require to be supported entirely, others require only a small assistance. But besides those who are permanently upon the roll, aid is occa- sionally given to some who are not paupers, but from distress or mis • fortunes are reduced to temporary want. The fund for the support of the poor arises from collections at the church, mortcloths, assessments, and occasional donations. The annual collections at church amount to from L. 10 to L. 12 a year; the mortcloths to L. 3 ; the assessment is generally L. 60, and sometimes L. 80. The first assessment was laid on in 1757. For several* years after, it was resorted to only occasionally. But since the beginning of the present century, it has been regularly im- posed every half year: and about 1810 it rose so high as L. 100 a-year. Previous to 1813 there were funds belonging to tiie poor amounting to L. 180. This money was lodged with the Earl of Hopetoun upon two bonds, at an interest of L. 5 per cenL At that time, James I'^arl of Ho])et()un, being in a very j)()(u- state of health, and the estate at his death going to the heir of en- tail, who was different from tiie heir of line, — his trustees refused t(» allow any more assessments till the poors' money in the Earl's hands was all exhausted. The kirk-session was thus obliged to exi^end the whole stock belonging to the poor, which amounted lo L. 9 a year. There is also a house in Ormiston burdened with an annual feu-duty of 1^. 4, 9s. for the benefit of the poor. From these sources, arise the regular supplies for the support of the poor. But besides the regular supplies, there has been for several years an extraordinary collection in the course of the winter for supply- ing needy families with coals and meal and other necessaries. The poor also obtain every year from an institution at Haddington a supply of flannel clothing. The Earl and Countess of Hopetoun are subscribers to this institution, and have granted ])erniission to the minister of Ormiston to draw from it upon their joint subscrip- tions such flannel clothing as shall be found needful for the poor in the course of the winter. In addition to all which, the Dowager Lady Hopetoun is in the constant practice of giving occasional charitv, and contributin*' whatever is necissu'v in cases of distress. The i)0()r are not insensible to the benefactions they receive. 152 HADDINGTONSHIRE. The allowance given them is indeed scanty, but they know it can- not be otherwise ; and when not treated with undue rigour they learn to submit to it without murmuring. The feeling of delicacy, however, in receiving parochial aid, that so long subsisted in this country, is now almost extinguished. The labouring classes are not unwilling to receive parochial aid whenever they can obtain it ; and it sometimes happens that even respectable tradesmen are not ashamed to have their aged parents put upon the poors' roll. They are in general careless in laying up for future want, and when dis- tress comes they naturally fall a burden upon the parish. The common practice among the labouring classes of living up to their incomes promotes pauperism. The evil in this country has already grown to a considerable magnitude ; and nothing but the strictest economy and care in the management of the funds can pre- vent it from increasing. In former times, the people were regular in contributing to the collections at church, and thus provid- ed a fund for the support of their indigent brethren. They never thought of attending divine service without carrying their offering along with them. And in many parts of the country this practice still exists, and no assessments are required. But in this district, a great part of the congregation give nothing, and the collections in general arc miserably small. About a century back too there were fewer upon the poors' roll, and these were better supported than they are now. The industrious poor are better fed, and better clothed, and have better wages than formerly; but they are less economical and less provident, and consequently more frequently exposed to privations and want. Alehouses. — In this parish, small as it is, there are no less than seven houses which have obtained a license to sell ardent spirits. There is only one public-house where stabling can be obtained, and that of an inferior description. Were there one good inn with proper accommodation for horses, it might be of great benefit to the place. It might diminish the number of tippling-houses, and by its superior accommodation, contribute to the prosperity of the village. At present, the small public-houses are certainly unfavour- able to morals. But the evil of tippling does not proceed altoge- ther from licensed houses. In private ones, tippling is carried on to a great extent. The inmates go to the shop and bring in what- ever quantity of spirits is wanted, at the joint expense of those who arc present ; and in this way disorders and abuses frequently take YESTEU. 153 places of all which, females and young children are witnesses and partakers. FiieL — Coal is the only fuel made use of in the parish. The inhabitants in the neighbourhood of Ormiston Hall are supplied from a pit wrought by the proprietor. Those in the village and vicinity obtain their chief supply from pits about a mile and a-half to the north, in the parish of Tranent. The price of a cart of coals of 12 cwt. is from 4s. to 4s. 6d. Miscellaneous Obsekvations. Since the last Statistical Account was publislied, the public road running through the parish, and also the private roads, have been very much improved. This circumstance, with a more liberal sup- ply of manure collected from different cpiarters, has produced a proportional improvement in the figriculture. At that time, the village was in a more thriving state on account of some public works carried on in the place. All these have been given up for a number of years, and there is a great want of employment for the labouring poor, especially in winter, when many are thrown com- pletely idle, and reduced to great straits. On such occasions, however, the family of Hopetoun has !iever been backward to ap- ply a remedy for an evil which, in the present state of society, can hardly be prevented. Revised September 1835. PARISH OF YESTICR. PRESBYTERY OF HADDIN(;TC)N, SYNOD Ol' LOTHIAN AND TWEKDUALE. THE HKV. JOHN THOMSON, .AHNISTKR. I. — Topography and Xatural History. Name. — The ancient name of the parish was St Boihans or St Bathans, — the name of a saitit who, if we may judt^c by the vestifjes of him which still remain in various j)arts of the country,* was once held in high and general estimation. The change of the name from St Bat bans to Yestcr, seems to have been made soon after the Reformation, which, among many other good results, has * AblK'v St nathaiiN, and wvcral vilhi^es in Irvlund. 154 HADDINGTONSHIRE. destroyed the popular reverence for pseudo-saiiUs, This change, however, as appears from the Presbytery records, was not general- ly adopted till about the year 1668. Yester is the ancient name of the Marquis of Tweeddale's estate, which lies chiefly within the parish. The name appears to be of Cambro- British origin. In that language, the word Ystrad or Yestred signifies a strath or tmle. This name, afterwards corrupted to Yester^ is very expres- sive of the local aspect of the parish, which forms a strath on the banks of a rivulet called Gifford-water, a tributary of the Tyne. The antiquity of the present name is shewn by the following cir- cumstance, that Hugh de Gifford (to whom William the Lion granted the baronial domains of Yestred or Yester in the twelfth century) " gave to the monks of Melros a toft in his village of YestredJ** The parish is popularly called Gifford, from a village in it of that name. Extent and Boundaries, — The parish is about 6 miles long from east to west, and about 5 in breadth, including an extent of 2 miles in the Lanimermoors. It contains 7080 Scots acres, or nearly 14 square miles. Its form is nearly that of an oblong square, bounded by the parishes of Garvald, Haddington, Bolton, Humbie, and Lauder. Topographical Appearances, — The I^mmermoor hills run along the south side of the parish. They are covered with heath, and afford good pasture for sheep. The highest of these is Lammer- lawy which is situated in Yester parish. Its height above the le- vel of the sea is about 1700 feet. Near the summit of Lammer- law, is an excellent spring of water; temperature in August 1834 42^, and scarcely at all different in winter. Various small streams descending from these hills, and uniting about a mile from their base, form the Gifford Water f which flows through the strath or Ystrad already mentioned. This strath is one of peculiar beauty. Although it is 400 feet above the level of the sea, it is highly cul- tivated and richly wooded. In the centre or lower part of it, stands the village of Gifford^ around which extends a circular elevated ridge of fertile land at the distance of about a mile and a-half, which slopes gently toward the lower part, and affords a good shelter from the cold east winds. • Chalmers* Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 534. f It is mentioned In the former Statistical Account, that " this stream was remark- able for a flood on the 4th of October 1775, which carried down most of the bridges in the parish, and a num1>erof trees from Yester ; a most unaccountable circunmtanee, as no extraordinary quantity of rain had previously fallen." The supposition of a water 'spoHt will perhaps explain the diflUculfy. YESTEU. 105 S!oi7, 4cC' — The greater portion of the county abounds in lime- stone and marl. At Kidlaw, in the south-western corner of this parish, there is a Ume quarry ; but, owing to its distance from coal, the working of it is rather expensive. There is no stone for building in the parish, no coal, nor gravel, except what is taken from the bed of the river. Formerly there were quarries of hard red freestone of excellent quality at Barra, which is two miles east from GiSbrd ; but they have not been wrought for many years. The soil of this parish, in common with that of East Lo- thian generally, furnishes a striking instance of the great benefit which results from well directed industry. It is by no means so highly favoured by nature as many other districts which have been less improved. It presents the aspect of an inclined plain, de- scending northward from Lammerraoor towards the sea, and may therefore be considered as in some measure averted from the sun's ^ys, and exposed to the chilling northern blasts. The soil, too, is generally of that kind in which clay greatly predo- minates, although in several parishes on the sea coast, and in some of the higher parts of this parish (at Long Yestcr and I-.ong Newton) a light loam is sometimes met with. A clay bottom, how- ever, forms the principal characteristic of the soil, which is about four-fifths clay, and one-fifth light and gravelly; but a skilful agriculture has in a great measure overcome these disadvantages, and rendered the soil very productive. It ought to be remarked, however, that, notwithstanding the northerly exposure of this pa- rish, the climate is on the whole favourable to the growth of corn ; and it hiis been very much improved of late by draining. Climate, — As might be expected from our proximity to the Lam- mermoors, a greater quantity of rain probably falls in this parish than in almost any other in the county. But the heavy falls of rain brought from the Atlantic Ocean by the westerly winds, and which so frequently deluge the We^t of Scotland, are little known here. The greater part of the clouds brought from the west are attracted and broken by the high grounds between (-lydesdaleand West Lo- thian. The few that escape this attraction are broken and divided by the Pentland hills. One part of these proceeds northward bv Arthur's Seat, and is wasted in the Frith of Forth; and another is attracted by the Moorfoot hills, and proceeds along that range by Soutra hill and I^unmcrmoor. Some of these clouds, however, from their height, occasionally escape both attractions, and travel eastward bv Dalkeith towards the vale of Tvue and the hii»hei 256 HADDINGTOxNSHIRE. districts of this parish. But from this course they are generally diverted by the Garleton-hills and Traprene Law ; and then they take either a southerly direction towards the hills of Lammermoor, or a northerly direction by North Berwick Law to the Frith of Forth. Such is the general course of the western clouds about the beginning of spring ; and as the season advances, the quantity of rain from the west is gradually lessened ; so that, during the summer and autumn, a west wiud is a tolerable security for dry weather. An instance of this occurs at the moment of writing this account. In the forenoon and afternoon of this day, an unusually large quantity of rain fell, the wind blowing with great violence from the south and south-east; but towards evening, the wind has veered round to the west; and at present, the sky, which but lately was darkened with clouds and mist, is clear and serene. During winter, the wind in every point from the west round by the north to the east occasionally brings snow or rain ; but snow seldom remains long on the ground. For some years back, little snow has fallen in this district ; and it very seldom happens that we have more than a week of what is called close weather. The spring in this part of the country is generally dry and cold, especially when the wind blows from the east. The cold, how- ever, is by no means so intense as in many parishes in the immediate neighbourhood of this, — which isowingin a great measure to the cir- cular elevated ridge that surrounds the strath of Yester. Occasionally in spring, there are heavy showers of hail or rain from the north- east. During the whole of May, the winds generally blow from some point to the north, with a bright sun, and a dry keen penetrating air, which renders it a trying period to invalids. Notwithstanding this, however, the situation of the parish is remarkably healthy, the air pure and invigorating, the climate generally mild, and " no par- ticular distemper is prevalent." At this period, the husbandman endeavours to have his fallow, especially on strong land, lying un- der a cross furrow and in large clods, which are dried so thorough^ ly by the east winds, that most of the rooted weeds enclosed in them are withered and destroyed. The weather seldom sets in steadily mild before the end of June. It is a proverbial expression, that the crops upon the clay and the strong land do not often begin to " mend until the nights are turn- ed," that is, till the summer heats commence. In summer and the beginning of autumn, the only rainy points are the south and east. Generallv the wind sets in from these YESTEK. 157 points at the change and full moon ; and (as in the ca^e eo}ile." •f Sir Walter Scott's Marniion, Note 3 on Canto iii. 1 58 HADDINGTONSHIRE. was acquired by marriage, a son of the first Marquis, Lord Charles, made the following verses : — Aulam alii jactent, felix Domus Ycstria nube, Nam qua? sors aliis, dat Vcaus alma tibi. Various accounts have been given of the origin of this ancient family. Buchanan * says that the Hays are descended from the hero of the battle of Loncarty, whose story is well known. The Scots, having been put to flight by the Danes, were met by Hay and his sons, who were ploughing in an adjoining field. Armed with ploughshares, they forced their panic-stricken countrymen to turn back on their invaders. The consequence was that the Danes experienced a signal defeat ; and soon afterwards. Hay, for his bravery and patriotism, was raised to the rank of nobiHty, and obtained a large estate in the Carse of Gowry, " quem (Buchanan adds) ad- huc eorum posteri tenent." This Hay, it is universally acknowled- ged, was the ancestor of the families of Errol and Kinnoul ; and many hold also that he was the ancestor of the family of Tweed- dale. Others again affirm that the ancestry of this family was of Norman descent, and settled in Scotland about the year 1200, having previously come from Normandy with William the Con- queror. Let antiquarians decide the question as they best can. Eminent Men. — John Knox, the Father of the Scottish Refor- mation, was born in the village of Gifibrd, in the year 1505. The place of his nativity, indeed, has been questioned ; some maintain- ing that he was born at Gifford-gate, one of the suburbs of Had- dington. But it is easy to show that this opinion is not well found- ed, f * Kerum Scoticarum Historia, in vita Kennctbi Tertii) anno 980. -f* We shall shortly state the evidence in favour of both o))inions, that the reader may decide for himself : That Knox was born at the village of Gifibrd, in this pa- rish, is proved not only by the circumstance tliat this has long been the prevailing opinion, but also by the testimony of Bcza^ his contcviporai-y and Jriend, He calls bim ^'Joannes Cnoxus, Scotus, Giffbrdictisis,** (Imagines illustrium virorum, £e. iij. an. ir>80,) evidently meaning that he was a native of Gifford. If he had been a na- tive of one of the suburbs of Haddington, would not Beza have called him Haddin^ tonicHtit $ Spotswood (History, p. 26o,edit. 1677,) says, that ''he was born in Gifford^ within Lothian," which statement is confirmed by David Buchanan, Crawfurd, and Wodrow, ( Buchanan's Memoir of Knox, prefixed to the edition of his history, pub- lished 1G44; Crawfurd's Life of Knox; Wodrow's MS. Collections respecting the Scottish Reformers, in Bibl. Coll. Glas.) On the other hand, Archibald Hamilton (De Confusione Calvinianae Sectae apud Scotos Dialogus, fv)l. 64, a. Par. J 577.) retailed a number of gross falsehoods in his work,** and though it may be said, that he was under no temptation to tell a lie in a matter of fact, yet it is not likely that a man of his character would either give himself much trouble to ascertain the truth inthis case, or be very scrupulous in adhering to it. The other writer, who says that I YESTEK. 1:VJ The Rev. John Witherspoon, I). D., LL. D., President of the College of New Jersey, in America, was born in the manse of Yes- ter on the 5th of February 1723.* The following notice, thoug^h rather lengthened, of this distinguished man, it is hoped, may not be unacceptable. He was lineally descended from John Knox, and was connected with a family of property in the east of Scot- land. His father, who wtus ordained minister of Yestcr in March 1720, was eminent for his piety, learning, and fidelity as a mi- nister of the gospel. Young Witherspoon was sent at a very early age to the public school at Haddington, where he distinguished himself by his assiduity and proficiency. He was sent, at the age of fourteen, to the University of Edinburgh, where he attracted tlie |)articular notice of the professors by his talents and acquirements. At the age of twenty-one he was licensed to preach the gospel ; and soon after he was invited to become assistant and successor to his father in the parish of Yester;— but he chose rather to accept a call from the parish of Beith, where he was ordained with the universal consent of the people. A short time afterwards, he was called to Paisley, where he laboured in the work of the Lord with universal acceptance and great success. During his resi- dence in Paisley he was invited to remove to Dublin, to Rotter- dam, and Dundee ; but he refused. He was also requested by the Tnistees of the College of New Jersey to accept the office of Pre- sident. He at first declined the offer; but on a second applica- tion he complied with it. The finances of the college (which was founded and chielly supported by private liberality,) were in a low and declining condition when Dr Witherspoon arrived in Ame- rica; but by his talents, reputation, and exertions, the college was soon raised to a state of great prosperity. Formerly the acade- mical course had been too suporlicial, and too much tinctured with the dry and unedifying forms of the schoolmen ; but Dr Wither- spoon introduced all the modern improvements of Europe, and in- corporated with the course of instruction a sound and rational me- taphysics, eijually removed from the doctrines of fatality and con- Knux WM iKirn iicnr Iladdin^ton, is called by ^I'Cric in tlic first oilitioii of \m work, " another of the sjimo kiclncy" with Ilaniilton, and therefore ontillwl to no cre- dit. Few persons, therefore, will Im disposed to differ from the late distinpiished bic^rapher of Knox, when he says. " I am inclined to prefer the opinion of the oldest and moHt eredihle writers, that he worn in tlie villa^ of (lifTord.* — M*Crie'« Life of John Knox, ,Jth edition, Vol. i. pp. I« 2. For u more full exami- nation of this point see the Appendix to the volume. Note A. • It IR sUtcd ill the aceounis of his life that he was Ixirn Fehrunry •>, \7'22; but on cxiiniining the parish n-^^istt-r, I find that he w.is h;ipti/eil on the 1 0th of Fe- bruary 172:). It is not likely that a year would elapse l»elween his birth and liaptisni. 160 HADDINGTONSHIRE. tingency. Under his auspices, most of the American clergy were educated ; and the United States owe to him many of their most distinguished patriots and legislators, — above thirty of his pupils having become members of Congress. In this situation Dr Wi- therspoon continued with increasing success till the beginning of the American war, — an event which suspended his functions, and dispersed the college. He then appeared in a new character. The citizens of New Jersey elected him as one of the most suit- able delegates whom they could send to that convention which formed their republican constitution; where he distinguished him- self as much in the capacity of a civilian as he had already done in those of a divine and philosopher. In 1776, he was sent as re- presentative of New Jersey to the Congress of the United States. He continued a member of that body seven years, and distinguished himself by his firmness, enlarged views, and profound wisdom. Nor did he forget, amid the bustle of political life, his ministerial cha- racter. After peace was restored, the college was reassembled, and continued to flourish under the immediate care of a vice-president; but Dr Witherspoon did not neglect to use every means for its im- provement. Dr Witherspoon was well prepared for the part he per- formed in the civil and ecclesiastical assemblies of America, by the experience he had acquired before leaving Scotland, as leader of the Orthodox party in the church, chiefly upon the great question of patronage, which was then the subject of discussion. For more than two years previous to his death, he was deprived of sight ; but he bore this and all his suflerings with exemplary resignation and cheerfulness. During his blindness, he was frequently in the pul- pit, and spoke with his usual accuracy and power. He died on the 15th of November 1794, after a life of great activity, of true piety, and of eminent usefulness. His writings are well known. They display extensive learning, a profound knowledge of Scripture, and an intimate acquaintance with the human heart.* This parish gave birth also to Dr Charles Nisbet, President of the College of Carlisle in America. He was born in March 1728 at Long Yester, where his father held the office of schoolmaster. After receiving license, he was ordained minister of Montrose ; from which place he was induced to remove by the ofier of a Pre- sidency in America. Though a man of distinguished attainments, he seems to have enjoyed little" comfort, and less worldly prosperity in '^the land of liberty,*' Although the names " College" and " Pre- • See tlic Life of the Rev. John Witherspoon, D. D, LL. D. prefixed to his works. YESTER. ini flident*' sounded well, yet he found that his situation was neither more profitable nor more respectable than that which his worthy fitther had held before him. On one occasion, he wrote to his friends, that ^' America was certainly a ^ land of promise ;' for it was all promise and no performance." We cannot refrain from mentioning another eminent man who was long minister of this parish — the Kev. James Innes, whose me- mory is still respectfully and affectionately cherished. He was or- darned in the year 1760, and died in 18*21 ; having been n1ini^ter of Yester during the long period of sixty-one years. As he left no writings behind him, we cannot now form a sufliciontly correct estimate of his powers. Although his talents were not of the highest order, yet he was remarkably distinguished by his powerful appeals to the conscience, his unbending integrity, and his unwea- ried diligence in his Master's work. This parish claims a remote connection with Sir Isaac Newton, who is said to have been a branch of the family of Newton of New- tonhall in this parish.* Parochial Registers, — These consist of nine volumes, and have been kept with considerable regularity. The date of the earliest entry is 18th March 1613. III. — Population. In the last Statistical Account of the parish, we arc inform- ed that the population was much greater aI)out a hundred years before than at that time. The decrease is attributed " to the demolition of cottages, and the union of several small farms into one." Ill 17.x>, tlif population w;i> lO'Jl 1701. . J':3.J IHOI. - - fhiO 1811, - l(H)li iH-il, - - 11(10 iKtl, - 1010 vi/. 404 males, ard .>2j iiMiinlis. The population at present (1835) is about 1050. The nunil)er of the population may perhaps have been considerably aU'ected by the improvements in manufiicturcs. Formerly, there were about twenty weavers in the vilhige of Gifford ; but owing to the improve- ments in machinery, there are at present not more than two or three; and even these have not constant employment in this branch of • Information on this iM)int may hv obtained in Sir Dav'd Hrcwstcr'a Life of Sir Immc Newton, Appi^iidix, N(». I. HADDINGTON. 1- 1G2 HADDINGTONSHIRE. trade. Of late years, several persons have emigrated from thi^^ parish to America, The population residing in the village of GifTord is - • 540 Tillages of Long Yestcr and Long Newton, 140 country, - - - - 370 The yearly average of births for the last 7 years is - - 30 deaths, - - - 16 marriages, - - • 10 The average number of persons under 15 years of age is about - 400 above 70, - - 25 Number of nobility and families of fortune, - - 4* unmarried men and widowers upwards of 50 years of age, - 15 women upwards of 45, - - 54 families, - - _ . 244 chiefly engaged in agriculturo, - - 1 12 trade and manufactures, - 78 Average numl>er of children in each family, - - 4 Number of inhabited houses, - . . . 196 uninhabited houses, (including 2 now building,) - - 14 Generally speaking, the people are cleanly in their habits, in- dustrious, frugal, contented, and intelligent.' Many of them are engaged in out-of-door work, of which they have usually enough to keep them well employed, as the proprietors and tenants wisely give a preference in this respect to natives of the parish, and ma- nifest a becoming anxiety to discourage the entrance of vagrants from other parts of the country. IV. — Industry. The parish contains 8928 acres standard imperial measure. The number of acres which have been cultivated is 5400. The number in hill pasture is 2522 ; of which 300 might be reclaimed — a considerable proportion having been under the plough in the reign of Queen Anne. The number of acres in a state of undivided com- mon is 60 ; and there are 946 acres in plantation. The trees are of various sorts ; beech, oak, ash, elm, lime, &c. They are well managed. Those on the grounds of Yester arc remarkably 6ne trees. The following names of places in this parish shew that there were formerly large forests here: — fVoodhead^ Broadwood" side^ Ecki/side (the Oak-wood-side,) Pyotshaw^-^ &c. Bent of Land. — Rent varies from 10s. to L. 2, 10s. per acre. The average rent of arable land is L. 1, 10s. per acre. Summer and winter-keep per ox or cow, L. 6, turnips or hay included ; ditto • The following are the heritors of the parish : — The Marquis of Tweeddale, Ri- chard Hay Newton, Esq of Newtonhall, John Hay Mackenzie, Esq. of Newhall, and Tliomas Crighton, Esq. of Skcdsbush. The Marquis of Tweeddale is the prin- cipal heritor and patron of the church. I In the Anglo-Saxon, Shaw signifies a 'wood, ^ YKSTKH. \(u\ two-year old, L. 4^ 10s. ditto ; ditto oiic-ycar old, L. 0, ditto. For r full-grown sheep in field pasture, L. 1, including turnips ; ditto on hill pasture, 6s. per annum. These of course vary (•onsidend>ly with the price of stock and wool. This parish is rated in the county cess-books as follows: The estate of Yester, L. 2911, 1 Is. 8d.; Newtonhall, L. 1 141, 2s. 4d. ; Newhall, L. 468; Skedsbush, L. 1 1 1, 9s. 4d.^; total L.4632, ;3s. 4d. The real rental of the parish at the time of drawing up the last Statistical Account was L.2000 SterUng. At present it is L.8000 per annum, having increased about I^ 2000 within the last twenty years. This increase, however, is in a great measure to be attri- buted to the death of many of the old liferenters during that period, who held their farms at a very low rent. Livestock, — The common breeds of sheep in this parish are the Leicester and Cheviot; and also a hardv thrivinor breed be- tween a Leicester tup and a Cheviot ewe. The total number of sheep is 4000; and 900 lambs are bred annually. Great atten- tion has been paid to their improvement, especially by the Mar- quis of Tweeddale. The cattle are of various sorts, from the fine diort^homed English breed down to the native of the Highlands and the Shetland islands. The total lunnbor of cattle in the ])a- rish is 360 ; and 80 cidves sire bred annuallv. Husbandry. — The state of husbandry has been much improved in this parish within the last ten years. At present, it is perhaps as perfect here as in any part of the country. Little wheat is grown in this parish, although it is of good quality. Karley, oats, and tur- nips are the principal crops. John Marcpiis of Tweeddale and Sir George Suttie, were the earliest and most successful in practising the turnip husbandry. Tins was about a hundred years «igo. Bone dust has of late been very generally used instead of manure, for raising turnips, and its eflects have been astonishing. Draining also has been carried on generally and successfully throughout the pa- rish. Lately, the Marquis of Tweeddale has erected a mill for working the clay, and lias invented a very ingenious machine for forming the tiles, which will greatly facilitate the operation of tile- draining. A considerable quantity of waste land has lately been reclaimed at the foot of tlie I^unmernioors, on the farms especially of Long Yester and Long Newton ; and the crops raised will soon repay the expense of cultivation. The genend duration of leases in this parish i» nineteen years. The state of farm-buildings and en- L. 8,457 18 540 2,000 1,166 13 4 50 1,800 1,800 3,000 L. 18,814 11 4 \{j4 HADDINGTONSHIRE. closures is good. Many of the farm-houses are new, and as com- modious as the mansion-houses of many Highland lairds. As far as I am aware, every encouragement is given to improvement by the proprietors. Produce. — The gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Grain of all kinds, 8,644 bolls of six imperial buKliels Potatoes, . 1,800 bolls at 6s. per boFI of 40 stones, Turnips, . 10,000 tons at 48. per ton, Clover-bay, 40,000 stones at 7d. per stone, Meadow -hay, {},0(K) stones at 4d. Pasture for • <)60 cows at L. 5, Pasture ior . 3,(K)0 sheep at 6s. for 1000 at IRs. Young cattle, horses, and lambs bred, wool, &c. suy Total amount of raw produce, V. — Parochial Economy. Markets. — There are no weekly markets held in the parish ; but there are three trysts or fairs held annually, which will be after- wards mentioned. The distance from Gifford to Haddington, where a market is held every Friday, is four miles. Tliis town, il is well known, affords to the surrounding country a good market for all kinds of agricultural produce. The Haddington corn-market is the greatest in Scotland, owing probably in some measure to its being entirely a ready money market. Means of Communication. — The road to Haddington, though not very level, is kept, as all the other roads are, in good re- pair. It might, however, be much improved at little expense by cutting and raising. In this parish there arc about three miles of turnpike roads and thirteen of parish roads. The road from Gif- ford to Edinburgh, which is distant about nineteen miles, is in a good state of repair. Since the year 1750, when an act of Parlia- ment empowercil commissioners to repair the post-road from Dun- glas Bridge to Ravenshaugh Bridge, the cross roads of this parish and county have been greatly improved. Before that time the roads were nearly impassable. At present, a one-horse coach tra- vels three times a-weck between Edinburgh and Gifford ; leaving Gifford on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays at 7 a. m., and returning on the other days. It jiasses through Saltoun and Tra- nent. It leaves No. 2, Princes Street, Edinburgh, at a quarter to four afternoon, and performs the journey in about two hours and a-half. There is a penny post-office in the village of Gifford. Till vi:sTi:i:. lUf) of late, tbe post -man travelled between Gitloril and Haddington (which is the post-town) twice a-day; — bringing letters from the north mail in the morning, and from the south mail in the after- noon. But, this summer, he has travelled only once shyterv Hicords. that he was Moderator of the IVcsbytery of Haddington from 1(>71 till 1(>7(); a circumstance which shews, not only that he was held in respect by his brethren, but nlM> thut the presbytery were beginning at that time to adopt Episcopalian views and ])ractices. Aecordingly, Mr Charteris wiis appointed by the Blyfiop of Ediitiiiifihy in Januity, in wliii-h situation, however, he does not seem to have continued many years. AfU>r the Uevolution. he was remov- ed to be minister of Dirleton, where he died. In .August l(>8l, (itOi^r Stcnhcn was ordained minister of Yester, in consetpiencL' of an edict from the nisliop of K Jin- burgh. He appears, however, to have been a staunch Presbyterian, 'i'he following reason, highly honourable to his ]>rinci]ilcs and character, is assigned for his removal, in the session records; — "January 7, 1(38-. No sermon, Mr Cieorge Stephen, our minister liaving lcl\ his charge, Ihwuusc he -cohM not Uihr the ttut imposed by autho- rity, as he was required on 'i'hurs8li, Robert ^leU druin, minister of Cjar\-ald, was appointed by the Ji'mfiojt oJ'EJiiihitr^h to 1h.> minister of Yester. In this situation he remained till I)ecend)er 1(>{K), notwithstanding the political and ecclesiastical changes which during his incund>ency had taken place in the nation, llie change from Prelacy to Presbytery at the Ucvolul ion does not loem to have changed his determination to continue minister of Yester ; and though thu circumstance might make some regard him nsa second " Vicar of Biati" yet he appears to have Ihhmi a faithful minister. The following entry in reference to liim is made in the ses.sion records : — " Decemlier 17* IbiMi. No sermon, our ministev beingdend, having faithfullie in the oflice of the ministery. served at this church ex- actly seventeen yeais, from the serving of his edict here to tlie next day after his bu- rial.*' On the Uth of Januarv 1700, the heritors and householders met at the church *• for the election of iiciv ehh n;" — and the //(/;//»>*, 'lih'is, aiid hotisthuldt tx were order- ed by the Presbytery to be present on the Jlst, ** for signing a call to a minister ti) this parish.** The call was given to a Mr Alexander Anderson : but he does not ap- pear to have been ordained, having probably accepted a call to another parish. 1m January 1701, another call was signed to Mr Juhua (Vm/^'-, who was ordainetl in April, and remained till October I71ii; when he was translated to Dunbar. In No- vember 1719, " the heritttrs, elders, and others concerned met to elect one to be their minister, and imaniniously made choice of Mt Jaims IVitm isjitKm,*' He was or- dained in March 17:2t), and fnliilled his oilice with exemplary fidelity. He diecrdeen) was inducted minister of this parish in Octol>er \^'^), David Horne (now at Corstorphine ) was ordiined in Mav UUil ; .Jril 1934. 170 HADDINGTONSHIRE. well as in the unendowed schools, the common branches of read- ing, writing, arithmetic, and English grammar are taught. In addition to these, Latin, Greek, French, geography, and ma- thematics are taught in the parish school at Gifford. Two or three boarders usually reside in the Gifford schoolmaster's house ; and he is well qualified to instruct them in the various bran- ches of classical education. The fees of one of the unendowed schools may amount to L.24 per annum, and of the other to about L. 14. Tlie following is a statement of the income of the parochial schoolmasters : at Gifford, salary, L. 34, 4s. 4d., school-fees, L. 40, other emoluments, L. 1. 7s. lOd.,* total income, L. 75, 12s. 2d.; — Long Yester, salary, L. 8, lis. Id., school-fees, L. 18, total in- come, L. 26, 1 Is. Id. ;t — and Long Newton, salary, L. 8, 1 Is. Id., school-fees, L. 14, total income, L. 22, lis. Id. The schools and dwelling-houses are in good repair, and the teachers have the le- gal accommodations. The general expense of education is as fol- lows : For teaching to read, 3s. per quarter ; to read and write, 3s. 6d., and in the parish school, 4s. ; for reading, writing, and arith- metic, 4s. 6d., and in the parish school, 5s. ; for teaching these branches, together with geography or grammar, 6s. ; and for teach- ing the classics, 7s. 6d. The schools are conveniently situated for the accommodation of the children. None are so distant from school as to be de- prived of the means of instruction. The schools are in general well attended. The average attendance of children in this parish at all the schools is about 220, which is more than one-fifth of the population. All the children in the parish above six years of age are able to read, and most of them can write. It is to be regret- ted, however, that in niany cases the children are taken from school too soon, in order to assist their parents in their work. Yet the people in general seem to be alive to the benefits of education ; and it would be reckoned a great reproach to any parent if he ne- glected to send his children to school at the proper age. About twenty years ago, the sum of L. 100 was mortified by William * 'Die sum of L. 1, 7s. lOd., given to the parochial schoolmaster in GiiTord, arises from mortified money on some estates in the parish, and part of it from an estate not in the parish. •f* It ought to be mentioned that, in addition to the sum of L.8, I Is. 1d.» which the schoolmaster of Long Yester receives from this parish, he obtains also from the parish of Garvald the sum of L. 17, 2s. 2d., so that his emoluments amount to L. 49, 13s. 3il. 1 YESTER. i/l • Begbie, Esq. of Gifford Vale, to educate poor cliildren. The interest, amounting to L.49 lOs., is appropriated to this pur- pose by the kirk-session. The session also, when necessary, pay for the education of poor children ; and several members of the bmily of Yester bear the expense of educating between ten and twenty children. There are two Sabbath schools in the parish. Poor and Parochial Funds, — There are at present eighteen regular paupers^ each of whom receives on an average L.t3 per annum. Be- rides these, about eight or ten receive occasiongray« - 1 4 BImii black, mixed wiUicool, 1 Bandfy dark-gray, - 1 7 Bla«, dark-Uue, - 7 Banda, dark-gray, - 4 Coal» - - 5 Blaw. dark-blue, intermixed wiUi gray bands, G 6 Blaei, black, soft, - 1 2 Fraoatone, gray - 4 1 Blaea, dark-blue, - 1 9 Coal, - - - 9 Blae, - - -003 Coal, - - - 2 4 Blaet, dark-gray, - 6 Fraotone, dark-gray and hard, 2 3 Freestone bands, - 10 Bbes, black, - - 4 Coal, - - 18 Blaea, black, - - 10 Fatfi, Feet, In, Blaes, dark-bluc, - 4 3 Blaes, black, - - 1 10 Freestone, dark-gray 12 (» Freestone, darker, - 10 Do. hard, - 10 Do. dark-gray, -0 1 1 Blaes, soft black, - 4 Coal, - - - 9 Blocs, blackish, - 1 11 Freestone bands, gray, Oil Do. dark-gray, - 5 10 Blue lied, - - 2 Freestone band, - G Coal, soft, - -GOG Blaes, blackish, - 1 5 Coal, soft, - - 5 Blaes, black, mixed with freestone bauds, - 1 7 Freestone, dark-gray, - 5 1 Bands and blaes, freestone, 19 Coal, spluit, - - 2 8 I'avement, - - 2 Fathoms, 16 Another pit has just been opened, a little below the North Mains, 1 76 HADDINGTONSHIRE. upon the side of the road leading from Penston to the London road ; but it is not yet finished. We find that in 1812, coal was wrought upon the property of Hodgesl There was also a brick-work upon that property, about fifty years ago ; but the working, both of the coal and the brick, has been discontinued. A proposal was made lately to set a-going a brick-work there for brick and tile ; but it was given up. Coal was wrought about thirty years ago at M* Mer- ry, and also at the western extremity of the parish ; but the pit was removed a little to the west in the parish of Tranent, where it now is. It belongs to Anderson of St Germains. In 1835, at M' Merry, when the blacksmith was sinking a well a little behind his house, on the St Germains property, he acci- dentally came upon some parrot coal. The tenant of the coal- work upon that property, upon hearing of this, examined it, and found a seam of parrot coal, which he has been working ever since, and which, having supplied the new gas-work at Haddington, pro- mises to turn to good account The tenant of the Penston coal also attempted to find it on the opposite side of the road, but did not succeed. The same year, borings were made in different parts of the Elvingston property, with a view to find coal, but without success. The magistrates of Haddington, some time ago, set on foot a coUiery on their property betwixt Gladsmuir and Samuel- ston ; but after going on for some time, they were obliged to give up the work, having lost about L. 2000 in the experiment. From all which, it appears that the coal strata crop out on the east, about the kirk of Gladsmuir. Lime has been found in different parts of the parish. At pre- sent, there is only one kiln in operation, at Hairlaw, a little to the east of Longniddry, on the property of the Earl of Wemyss^ About a mile to the south, on the property of Ainslie of Redcoll, there is a kiln in pretty good preservation, where limestone had been burnt, but the working has been discontinued for some time. I do not know that lime has been wrought, on the south side of the great road ; but as there is a kiln in active operation on the eastern extremity of the Pencaitland estate, and upon the borders of the barony of Samuelston, it is highly probable that lime may be found on the contiguous lands of Samuelston or of Hodges. It is foundi in the same line, all the way west to the kirk of Crichton, and on the north of the road so far east as the farm of Hoprig. Iron ore has been found on the eastern extremity of the form of Setonhill, a little below Cotyburn, in the hollow called the Dean. 3 GLADSMllR. 177 It was wrought for some time, but afterwards the working was given up^ for what cause I have not been able to learn. But now that there is so great a demand for iron, it is in contemplation again to begin the work. The property belongs to the Earl of Wemyss, who, in all probability, will not lose sight of a mineral of so much importance at the present time. Freestone rock for building is found, every where in the parish. An old quarry on the road from Gladsmuir to Penston, from which stones were procured for building the church and school-house, is still open, but filled with water to a considerable depth. A quarry was also opened last year at Westbank, for supplying stones for the buildings upon the estate. Quarries of a similar kind are to be met with in different parts of the parish. There is a remarkable dike of whinstone running through tlie parish, from east to west. It passes betwixt the house of Redcoll and Longniddry, and being quarried in different places, has fur- nished an abundant supply of excellent stones for making and re- pairing the roads. It has been traced through East Lothian all the way to Borrowstownness. In the fields about Greendykes, Southfield, and Adniston, great quantities of boulders and detached pieces of rock have been found and removed. They were struck by the plough, and the cultiva- tion of the fields could not be effected till they were raised and car- ried off. The soil in the middle tract, upon the western extremity, and all upon the south of the great road, is clayey, with the exception of a small tract upon the banks of the Tyne, which is loamy ; near the Frith, on the north, it is sandy, and as you advance southward towards Xiongniddry, it becomes a rich loam. There is a field lying to the south-west of Chesterhall, which is mossy. That field, forty years ago, was a bog, out of which the old people remember peats being dug. All vestiges of what it once was are now done away, and it is in a state of high cultivation. Plantations. — Belts of wood are to be found in different parts of the parish, composed of oak, beech, lime, birch, elm, ash, chestnut, hazel, and some others. The plantations of Penston, Hodges, and Samuelston, being contiguous to each other, form a tract of wood betwixt 100 and 200 acres, lying on the south of the great road, and are composed of the different kinds of fir, but chiefly the Scotch. The Penston wood, consisting of 30 acres, was planted about forty years ago by Lady Ross Baillie. The wood at Hodges 178 HADDINGTONSHIRE. is old, and in some places has been so much thinned, that it be cleared and made arable at very little expense. Nowhere in the county are ditches and drains more necessary than on the pro- perty of Hodges.* 11. — Civil History, f Ancient families — Baillie ofHoprig and Penstoru — By far the most ancient family connected with this parish, is that of Baillie of Hop- rig and Pension. That, indeed, is one of the most ancient families in Scotland, having been in possession of those lands for the long period of 540 years. John Baliol, Lord of Barnard Castle, was the founder of Baliol College, Oxford, and father of John BaUol, King of Scotland. He had a brother, Alexander Baliol or de Balliolo, High Chamberlain of Scotland, whose second son, William de Bal- liolo, swore fealty to King Edward L in 1296, as appears from the Ragman Roll. He was proprietor of Hoprig and Peuston, and ac- quired Lamington, in Lanarkshire, by marriage with a daughter, it is said, of William Wallace, Governor of Scotland. The family took the designation of Lamington, altering their name to Baillie. Sir William Baillie of Lamington, Hoprig, and Penston, dying without legitimate male issue about 1580, was succeeded by his eldest daughter Margaret, who married Edward Maxwell of the Nithsdale family. He took the name of Baillie, and from them descended William Baillie of Lamington, Hoprig, and Penston> whose only son, William, dying unmarried, his estates devolved on his daughter, Margaret, married to Sir James Carmichael of Boony- toun, in Lanarkshire, of the Hyndford family. Their son, Sir James^ died without issue, and was succeeded by his sister, Henrietta Bail- lie of Lamington, Hoprig, and Penston, also Bonnytoun, and mar- ried the gallant Admiral Sir John Lockhart Ross of Balnagowan^ * It may be noticed here, that a very large gcen tree stood at the west end of the manse, planted by Principal Robertson, when minister of the parish. Towards the bottom, it was about 3 feet in diameter, of a great height, and spread its brandics- over some of the buildings in its neighbourhood. The trunk, when the present in- cumbent came to the parish in 1833, was quite hollow and rotten in the middle^ and the whole weight was supported by an outer rim of 2 or 3 inch^ thick, with an opening on one side. Had it been overturned by the wind, it might have done very great injury both to the manse and offices. To prevent which, it was cut down last year, and the fragments of it, laid up beside the house, bear witness of what it once was. f There are no accounts of the parish, as far as I know, either written or printed. Some years ago, Mr M' Donald, of the Register. Office, found an account in MSS. of several of the parishes of East Lothian drawn up in 1627, which he has lately got printed, and has generously sent a copy of the book to the library of the General As- sembly, to be preserved for the use of the church. The parish of Gladsmuir having, been erected long after that period, of course cannot be amongst them. But the pos- Uon Ukcn from Tranent is to be found under the head of that parish. OLADSMIIR. 179 Bart Her eldest son, Sir Charles Iloss of Biiluagowan, prede- ceased her, leaving by his 6rst wife, Maria Teresa, daughter of James Lockhart of Lee and Carnwath, Count of the Holy Roman Empire, a daughter, Matilda, and by his second wife. Lady Mary Fitzgerald, daughter of William Robert, second Duke of Leinster, a son, Sir Charles Ross of Balnagowan, and five daughters. Ma- tilda, the only child of the first marriage, succeeded to Lamington, Hoprig, and Penston, married Sir Thomas John Cochran, Captain R. N. and died 1819. The eldest son, Alexander Dundas Ross CochraD Wishart Baillie, who is yet a minor, is the present pro- prietor of Lamington, Hoprig, and Penston, and is lineally descend- ed from William de Balliolo in 1296. To this fiimily, the parish of Gladsmuir in a great measure owes its existence ; for William Baillie of Lamington was most active in procuring its disjunction from the neighbouring parishes, and its erection and endowment as a separate parish. Douglas of Longniddry. — Another ancient family connected with this parish was Douglas of Longniddry. This family was a cadet of the Douglases of Dalkeith, Earls of Morton, and was distinguished for steady attachment to the doctrines of the Re- formation, which, about the middle of the sixteenth century, were spreading rapidly through this country.* In the Duke of Somerset's expedition to Scotland in 1547, it is mentioned " 7th September, marched that day nine miles, and camped at night by a toun standing upon the Frith called Long- niddrie* There was found a gentlewoman, the wife of one Hugh Douglas. She was great with child, whose estate the council un- derstanding, my Lord's Grace, and my Lord Lieutenant took or- der, that all night, without danger or damage, she was well preser- ved." The Douglases had the east part of Longniddry, where the vaulted ground floor of the castle still remains. At that time, the estate belonging to the Douglases comprehended a considerable part of Hairlaw, Redcoll, and Setonhill, which have since been tak- • When John Knox was obliged to leave St Andrews, on account of the troubles to which the Protestants were then subjected, he was invited to Longniddry by Mr Douglas. There he was employed in conducting the education of Mr Douglas* two ■ons, Frmncis and George, and abo Alexander Cockl)urn, the eldest son of tlie Inird of Ormiston. This Alexander Cockburn was a young man of great promise, but dicecausc he had no lands fit for growing wheat. From that circumstance the farm got the name of Wheatrig It was taken from the pro* perty of llcdhousc, now in the possession of the Earl of Wemyss. 182 HADDINGTONSHIRE. Greendykes, East and West Adniston. The Honourable John Henry Glassel Campbell possesses the lands of Longniddry^ con- sisting of one large farm and several smaller pieces let to the in- habitants of the village ; he is a minor. Robert Ainslie of Red- coll, having lately purchased Elvingston and Trabroun, now posses- ses those lands, together with what he formerly possessed. The Honourable Miss Murray possesses Laverocklaw. John Ainslie, younger brother of Robert, has the lands of Merryhatton, which are part of the estate of Huntington. Lord Ruthven, in right of his Lady, possesses the lands of Hodges, and is by far the smallest proprietor in the parish. Only one heritor is resident in the pa- rish, — Ainslie of Redcoll. Eminent Men. — In the former Statistical Account of Glada- muir, it is stated that George Heriot, founder of the hospital in Edinburgh which bears his name, was a native of this parish. It appears, however, from an account of his life published in the Scots Magazine in 1802, and from an account afterwards publish- ed in 1822, that his father, who was a goldsmith of great respec- tability, was born at Trabroun, in the parish of Gladsmuir, but that George was born in Edinburgh, June 1563, brought up to the same trade with his father, and held the lucrative appointment of jeweller to the King and Queen. On the accession of James to the English throne in 1603, he went to London^and continued there till his death, Febniary 1624. The Heriots of Trabroun were a family of some antiquity in East Lothian. Dr Robertson, Principal of the University of Edinburgh, began his ministry in this parish. He succeeded his uncle, Andrew Ro- bertson, and was ordained 17th April 1744, before (it is said) a very numerous congregation. He was presented by the Earl of Hopetoun, who singled him out as a young man of great promise* He lived for some years in the old manse, where he composed th^ greater part of the History of Scotland. He afterwards came to the present manse, where he continued till his removal to Edin- burgh. At Gladsmuir, in the retirement of the country, he laid the foundation of that high eminence which he afterwards attained as an historian, as well as in conducting the affairs of the church, being for many years looked up to as the leader in the General Assembly. From Gladsmuir he was translated to Edinburgh, as colleague to Dr Erskine, in the church of the Old Grayfriars, with whom he continued to live in habits of the most friendly in- tercourse till his death. GLADSMUIR. 183 William Baillie of Lamington deserves to be noticed here, not only ou account of his private worth, but also on account of his mu- nificent liberality to the parish. He wa3 very active in procuring the erection of the new parish. He made a present to the parish of land for the church and churchyard, and for the school, school* master's house, and garden, and built the church at his own ex- pense, and in addition to all this, he allowed the minister, from his colliery at Penston, free coals for the use of his family. Bail- lie's descendants continued to the ministers of Gladsmuir the pri- vilege which their worthy ancestor had so generously granted, till it was withdrawn by those who had the management of the pro- perty, at a period when the succession was doubtful. It is to be hoped this privilege will be again restored. But whether it be or not, William Baillie of Lamington will be remembered as a man deeply impressed with the importance of religion to the welfare of the country, as a benefactor to the church, and an active promot- er of her true interests, as long as the parish of Gladsmuir shall exist. ■ PtirochieU Registers. — The records go back to the erection of the parish. The first minute is dated at Gladsmuir meeting- house, 26th April 1692.* The records are very defective. After the first volume, which ends in 1707, there are no minutes for thirty years following. Tlicre is also a blank from 1804 till 1833, when the present incumbent came to the parish. In the register of bap- tisms, there is a gap from 1734 to 1760. The list of marriages is also wanting from 1737 to 1766. But besides those defects^ the registers of baptisms and marriages do not appear to have bceu accurately kept. Antiquities. — There were lately to be found in the parish, the renoAins of several old mansion-houses ; but the tide of time is sweeping them fast away, and levelling with the ground the most stately monuments of former greatness. The mansion of the Dou- glases of Longniddry, distinguished for their zeal for the Refer- * That minute mentions, that the United Presbytery of Haddington and Dunbar bad appointed Mr Moncricff, minister of Saltpreston, now Prestonpans, to be modera- tor of Uie Session, for the pur^iosc of uniting with the heritors, in the choice of a mi- nister to the new parish. The heritors were called at the door of the church, inti- mation of the meeting having been formerly given to them. Whereupon, they and the elders unanimously made choice of Mr Mungo Watson, then minister of the cha- pel, to be minister of Gladsmuir. He, of course, was the first minister of the parish. It H worthy of notice, that, some time after, as ap{>ears firom the minutes of presby- tery, he got a call to the parish of Linlithgow ; but the i>cople of Gladsmuir being attached to him, and having petitioned agahist his removal, the presbytery refused to kxiflc him from his charge, and he continued minister of Gladsmuir till his death. 184 HADDINGTONSHIRE. mation, is now known only by a circular mound, rising a few feet above the ground, containing the subterraneous vaults which were connected with the building. The wall running along the public road is still called the Lairdts Dyke ; and a part of the field, a lit- tle to the north, the Laird's Garden. The two mansion-houses of east and west Adniston, which an-. ciently belonged to different proprietors, have been so completely demolished, that not a vestige of them is now to be seen. The old house of west Adniston was situate close by the present &nn- house, and was last occupied by two ladies, one of whom was mar- ried to the Earl of Winton, the father of the last EarL It was taken down about twenty jears ago, and the materials used in building the present farm-oifices. The mansion-house upon the farm of east Adniston was about a quarter of a mile distant from the other, and formerly occupied by the proprietor, Mr Adnbton. It was taken down in 1832, to assist in building the present magnificent set of ofiices at the farm of Greendykes. At Penston, there was an old mansion-house occupied by the proprietor when he resided in this part of the country, but no re- mains of it are now to be seen. It was strongly built, with a very thick wall, and the apartments had arched roofs, as was common in ancient times. It stood on the south of the road running through the village, opposite to the barn which has just been built. The garden attached to it still remains. Contiguous to the old mansion- house, was a pretty large store-house or granary, which was built in 1670, as appears from a date on one of the lintels of the door, for the purpose of receiving the rents of the tenantry, which at that time were paid in kind. An old man above eighty remem- bers, when Dundas of Arniston had the charge of the property, that the farmers used to carry the corn in sacks, upon horses' backs from Penston to Arniston, there being at that time no car- riage roads across the country. Betwixt Penston and Henmuir, are to be seen the ruins of an old windmill, which was employed to draw up the water from the coal. When there was wind, it answered the purpose extremely well ; but in calm weather it could not act, — the water got the bet- ter of the workmen, and they were thrown idle. This inconveni- ence is now completely remedied by the use of steam-engines, of which there are two upon the coal-work. At Seatonhill, about two years ago, when the servants were ploughing in the field contiguous to the farm-house upon the south, GLADSMUIR. 185 the ploughs struck upon some large stones, which, when dug up, were found to be coffins composed of flag-stones of a peculiar qua- lity, probably a kind of puddingstone, others of a kind of red flag-^ stone, common in the neighbourhood. The coffins were about 5 feet long by 2 broad, all of them containing bones. More have since been dug out : and it is probable there are many still remaining in the ground beyond the reach of the plough. Specimens of the stones are preserved by the tenant, and are also in my possession* On the eastern part of the same farm, not £ar from the coffins, an litn was found full of bones. It was broken in the taking up, but the fragments are in possession of Mr Black. On the farm of Southfield, about a mile to the south of Long- niddry, while the labourers were employed in making drains, they found a variety of small silver coins of different dates and sizes, chiefly British. They were given to the tenant, with whom they are to be found. Similar coins were found in the neighbouring fann of Greendykes, some of which are in the possession of the proprietor. It is probable the place had been some military sta- tion, where they had been deposited. Modem Buildings. — There are hardly any modern buildings of consequence in the parish. The House of Redcoll, built about ^ twelve years ago, and inhabited by the proprietor, is a neat substantial bailding, with a garden and set of good offices. It has a porter's lodge, and an approach from the road of about 300 yards, with a belt of trees on each side. The house at Southfield was built, about thirty years ago, by the proprietor Mr Gray, and inhabited by him. But when the farm came into the possession of the Earl of Wemyss, it was given to ihe tenant as a dwelling-house, and has since been occupied by him. It is a small but handsome house, with a considerable num« her of trees scattered about it It is open to the north, but quite shut up in the view to the south. The farm-houses are in general good. A new one was built last year upon the farm of Hoprig Mains. Some have undergone repairs and got additions. Those at Penston and Westbank have got a substantial set of new offices with slated roofs. But, among dl the farm-offices in the parish, and I may say in the county, none are to be compared to those of Greendykes. They were built by the proprietor a few years ago, and are more like the offices you might expect to find connected with a Ducal palace, than the house of a tenant. 186 HADDINGTONSHIRE. III. — Population. From the appearance of ruined houses on both sides of the pa- rish, an opinion has prevailed that the inhabitants were once more numerous than they are now. But by a numeration which was made at the first seating of the church in 1697, it appears that the number of inhabitants then must have been under 1350* When the census was taken by Dr Webster in 1755, the numbers were 1415, and at the time when the last Statistical Account was drawn up the population was 1380. By the census in 1821 it was found to be 1623, and in 1831 it amounted to 1658. Since that time, it has varied very little. Of these, 822 are males, and 836 are females. From the above tatement, it appears that the population in the course of less than a century has increased more than 200. This increase has arisen, not from the introduction of manufactories or public works, (there are none such ; and a brewery, which was for- merly carried on at Trabroun, has for many years been given up,) but from the general improvement of the parish. The whole pa- rish, many parts of which about a century ago were bleak and barren, covered with broom, and furze, and brambles, has been gradually brought into a state of high cultivation, and made ca- pable of producing all kinds of crops. In consequence of which, a stimulus has been given to improvement, which, notwithstanding the great depression in the prices of grain, is still going on, and gives employment to a far greater number of families than former- ly. Besides, the greater demand for coals, occasioned by the in- creased consumption from steam engines, must have given employ- ment to an additional number of families. The population resid- ing in the villages of Samuelston, Penston, and Longniddry, amounts to 684; in the country, 974. In that part of the parish inhabited by colliers, the population is constantly shifting, and in the course of two or three weeks may vary from 20 to 50. • This shifting has prevailed very much, of late, in consequence of a change of tenants. The average number of births, for the last five years, was 51, the number varying from 40 to 59. The average number of marriages for the same time was 16, varying from 10 to 24. No account of deaths being kept, the average number cannot be ascertained. There are several persons in the parish above eighty, chiefly men, two of whom have now reached their ninetieth year. The number of fa- milies is 358. The number of inhabited houses is 343. Intheagri- GLADSMUIR. 187 cultural part of the parish, five houses are uninhabited. A conside- rable number of houses allotted for colliers were empty some time ago, but are now mostly occupied* No houses are at present building. There are three fetuous persons connected with the parish, two men, both above middle age, and one woman. There is also a little girl deaf. Character and Habits of the People. — The people in general are cleanly and attentive to their dress. Their manners have acquir- ed a considerable degree of polish, arising in some measure from their vicinity to the capital, and from the great intercourse that is now maintained all over the country. That rusticity of manners and dress, and outlandish appearance which some time ago cha- racterized our rural population, are fast wearing away, and t]ie manners and dress of the people are rapidly improving. The la« bouriog classes here are in no want of employment, enjoying many of the comforts of life, and in general seem to be contented .with their condition. And at no former time, perhaps, was their con- dition more favourable, — for while the necessaries of life, both with respect to food and clothing, are low in price, tlieir wages arc nearly the same as when things were double their present value. Their food is plain but substantial ; they are in the midst of coal ; and they want only comfortable houses to make their situation what it should be.* * The lands of Samuelston were so much infested by witches in 1661t that John Earl of Haddington, to appease his tenants, was under tlie necessity of presenting a petition to his Majesty's commissioner, for the purpose of getting them tried by a court of judicature. The following extract from this conunifssion shews that the arts of darkness continued to be practised by numerous bodies, to the no small terror of the li^gea. M Edr, 3d April 1601. ConitnUsion fir Judging of WlicTies, ^c. in SamueltHm, — To the Ri^t Hon. His Majestie's Commissioner, his Grace, and the Lordis, and others of the Parliament appoyntit fur the Articles, the humble petitioun of John Earl of Haddingtoun, Sheweth, — That, upon scverall maleficcs committit of late within and about my landis of Samuelstounc, thair being severall persones suspect of the abomi- nable lin of witchcraft apprehendit and searched, the marks of witches wer found on thame in the ordinarie way, scverallis of thame haif made confcssioun, and haif dilatit sundrie others within the saidis boundes, and haif acknowledged pactioun with the devile. Tliair names are tlicse : Elspet Tailyeor in Samuclstoune, Margaret Bartil- nuuiy Mareoun Quheitt, Janet Carfrae. These haif nuud confessioun alreacUe. Otheris they haif dilatit as partakeris of the same cryvac with thame, viz. Christianc Deanea, Agnes Williamsone. Tlies are dilatit be the former, and the marks are found on thamcy quha ar lykwayes apprehendit, otherLs are lykewayes dilatit by thame, namelie, Helene Deanes, George Milnetowne, Patrik Cathie, Anna Pilmure, Eli. •ibeth Sinclair, Margaret Baptie, Janet Maissone, and Margaret Argyile, Elspeth Crawfbrd. Thes are dilatit be the former confessing, hot ar not as yet ai>prchendit nor learched. And trew it is, that throw the frcquencie of the said sin of witchcraft in the saides boundes, my haill tenentes there tliroatnes to leave my ground without jnatioe be done on these persones. And becaus the lawes ar now silent, this sin be- oomea daylie more frequent. Also, thair (ar) two otheris persones apprehendit for fthift in the foresaide boundes, quhom I haif intertained in prlsone within the tolbuith 188 HADDINGTONSHIRE. During the last three years, there were 9 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. The two great divisions of labour carried on in the parish are agriculture and mining, or the working of coals. Agriculture is the principal employment of the people. There are 22 farmers in the parish, occupying land from above 50 to 500 acres each ; 9 smaller farmers, occupying from 10 to 40 acr& each ; and 5 sub- tenants, occupying under 40 acres each. Some of those farmers retain upon their farms, including hinds and their families, and la- bourers, from 50 to 76 individuals. On the farm of Coates, there is a resident population of 76; pn that of Hairlaw, 67, besides others who do not reside upon the farm. The inhabitants of Pen- sion, Henmuir, North mains of Penston, and M*Merry contain- ing a population of betwixt 400 and 500, are chiefly employed in the working of coal, llie great London road running through the parish about two miles and a-half, the public road running through Longniddry about two miles, and the North Berwick road of Hadingtoun upon my ain chairges thes ten weikes by-ganc ; and other two ar ap- prehendit for robbcric committit be thame within my boundcs and landes of Byr» thcs twentic weikes bygane, within the tolbuith of Edinburgh, upon my own chairges.** The Lord Commissioner and Lords of the Articles, after hearing the petition, granted a commission for putting to death such of the above persons as were founds guilty of witchcraft by confession, and for trying the others, which, if we may credit tradition, was put into execution. The field in Samuelston where they were burnt was called the Birlic Knowe, and was situated on the south side of the village, be- tween the Tyne and the mill-dam, where, within these few years, (it being now ploughed up) kimmers ble^hed their linens clean, and found it a very useful spoty unhallowed as it was. About this time, a warlock drove a lucrative trade, called Sandie Hunter, (alias Hamilton,) whom it is said the devil nick-named Hattaraick. He was origi* nally a nolt-herd in £&st Lothian, and was famous for curing diseases both in man and in beast, by words and charms. W herever Hattaraick went, none durst reftise him an alms. One day he went to the gate of Samuelston, when some friends after dinner were taking to horse, a young gentleman, brother to the lady, switched him about the ears, saying, " You warlock carle, what have you to do here ?*' — whereupcm the fellow went away grumbling, and was heard to say, " You dear buy thisereitbe long.** After supper the gentleman took horse and departed, and crossing Tyne wft- ter to go home, he passed through a shady piece of a haugh called the A Hers. What he saw there, he would never reveal, but next day he was m a high state of delirium, and had to be bound. The Lady Samuelston hearing of this said, *' Surely the knare Hattaraick is the cause of this trouble ; call for him in all haste.*' When the warlock came, " Sandie," says she, " what is this you have done to my brother William ?**-i- " I told him,** replied he, " I should make him repent his striking of mc at the yait lately.'* She giving the rogue fair words, and promising him his sack fuU of meal* with beef and cheese, persuaded the fellow to cure him, which was speedily effected. When Hattaraick came to receive his wages, he told the lady her brother would' shortly leave the country, never to return ; upon which, she caused him to make a de« position of his property to the defrauding of his brother George. After the warlock had pursued his lucrative calling for some time, he was apprehended at Dunbar, taken to Edinburgh and burnt on the Castlehill Satan's Invisible World. Sinclair, from whom the substance of the above is copied, says, that he had the in* fi>rmation from the gentleman's brother.-^St Baldred of the Bass, p. 276-8. GLADSMUIR. 189 upon the coast, with the cross and parish roads, emp loy in winter 80, and in summer about 20 men. These men and day-labourers receive from Is. 6d. to Is. 8d. per day. There are 7 carpenters who employ, upon an average, 10 men as journeymen or appren- tices ; last year their wages were 2s. 6d. per day. There are 2 masons, wages ds. per day ; 9 blacksmiths, wages from 2s. 6d. to 8s. per day ; 2 bakers, wages from Is. to Is. 6d. per day, with vic- tuals ; 4 tailors, who are generally paid by the piece, and whose wa- ges have not risen lately, in proportion to the rise in some other professions; 2 weavers, one of whom is an old man, and able to do very little worL There are employed at the Penston coal-works 50 colliers, 80 women putters, and 26 boys ; and at the St Gcrmains col- liery, residing in this parish, 12 colliers, besides women putters and children. A collier and his putter throw out, at an ave- rage, fifteen load of coc'ils per day, which is equal to 4s. 4^d. But as there are frequent interruptions, their income can hardly be rated so high for any length of time. The general income of a man and his putter may be stated at from L. 1, Is. to L. 1, 5s. per week ; a load of coal weighs 200 pounds, for which they re- ceive d^d. Men-servants living in the house have from L. 4 to Lfc6 half yearly ; women-servants from L. 2, lOs. to L. i3. Agriculture. — The parish of Gladsmuir contains very nearly 5080 Scotch, or 6386 imperial acres, arable. Some parts of it, particularly the lands upon the north, to the extent of about one mile and a-half from the coast, and running east towards the Byres hills, were very early cultivated, and about the beginning of the se- venteenth century bore a very high valuation ; as may be seen from an account of some of the parishes of East Lothian, lately printed by Mr McDonald of the Register- Office. Other parts, particular- ly the lands in the centre, intersected by the great Loudon road, are of recent cultivation, and of an inferior soil. Here, however, improvements are rapidly going on ; lands that long lay waste have been reclaimed, and are now under the most improved sys- tem of husbandry. And notwithstanding the very low prices of grain, and the many discouragements from that circumstance, in the way of both landlords and tenants, the spirit of improvement seems to surmount every obstacle. As a proof of this, steam en- gines for thrashing the crops have been erected on many of the farms, and there are at present in the parish no less than ten em- ployed for that purpose. It is in contemplation to erect more. HADDINGTON. N 190 HADDINOTONSHIRE. In cropping, rotations of five, six, seven, and eight years are fol- lowed. The most common are five and seven years. The five years rotation consists of, 1. fallow ; 2. wheat, barley, and oats ; d. and 4. pasture ; 5. oats. The seven years rotation is, 1. turnips and po- tatoes ; 2. barley and wheat ; 3. and 4. grass ; 5. oats ; 6. beans ; 7. wheat. The eight years rotation is, 1. fallow ; 2. wheat ; 3. bar- ley ; 4. and 5. grass ; 6. oats ; 7. beans ; 8. wheat The kinds of manure employed are byre and stable dung ; lime and earth collected from cleaning ditches, roads, &c mixed with lime, forming compost ; rape, and bone dust. The rape dust is very generally used. Iron ploughs and harrows are almost uni- versally employed. Machines for sowing grain are getting more and more into use. Turnips are eaten upon the ground with sheep, or brought home to feed cattle bought in about the end of harvest, to be fattened for the butcher, while the straw is convert- ed into manure by cattle kept in the close. Live Stock. — The number of sheep kept in the parish has of late been upon the increase, and is now betwixt 2000 and 3000. They are bought in as they are required, and are black-faced, but chiefly Cheviot, and a cross breed of Cheviot and Leicester. The milk cows are not of any particular breed. There are a considerable number of the Ayrshire. They are reared or bought as occasion requires, and not more than two or three are kept by each feirmer to supply his family with milk and butter. Black-cattle are bought in at the end of harvest, and fed off on turnips for the market. The num- ber of these may amount to about 500. There are 78^ plough- gates requiring 172 horses. Twenty-six are kept for riding and occasional work, and 20 for driving carriages, making in all 218 horses, besides young ones. The duration of leases is nineteen years. I believe there are no exceptions to this rule. Such a length of time affords the far- mer sufficient opportunity to remunerate himself for the expense laid out in the cultivation of his farm. The farms are all enclos- ed, mostly with thorn hedges and ditches ; and the hedges and ditches are well kept. The farm buildings have been much im- proved in the course of the last year, and repairs and improve- ments are still going on. It is to be hoped, as soon as the project- ed improvements have been made upon the farm-houses and of- fices, the attention of the proprietors will be directed to the cot- houses, most of which have great need of improvement There are 240 Scotch or 302 imperial acres under wood, includ- GLADSMUIR. 191 iog belts for shelter, shrubberies, and ornamental planting; 34 impe- rial occupied with houses, offices, gardens, and common patches in vfllages ; and H with roads, making in all 5353 Scotch or 6751 imperial acres in the parish. Bent of Landy and Wages. — The rent of land varies from L. 5 an acre to less than L. 1. The average of the whole, this present year, the price of wheat being very low, will be nearly L. 1, 12s. per Scots acre. Farm-servants are hired by the year, and paid partly in money and partly in kind, as follows : 6^ bolls of meal, 4 bolls potatoes, 2 bolls barley, i boll pease, 2 stones pork, when pigs are not kept, a cow's grass, and L. 8, 10s. money, with a house, for which the servant furnishes a shearer in harvest for twenty days. When a cow's grass is not given, L. 5 money addi- tional is allowed. In some farms, there is a little difference in the articles which make up the wages ; but the amount is nearly the same all over the parish, being equal to from I a 21 to L. 24 money, this present year. In some instances, they are paid in money, and receive 9s. per week. The farm-servants are generally bound to keep bondagers, as they are called, that is, persons to work in the bam and 6elds when required. They are females or boys, and if the hinds have none of this description in their own families, they must hire them. It was long the practice to hire farm-servants at Christmas or the end of the year, but a resolution was entered into by the tenantry lately, not to hire them till the beginning of February. The average rent of grazing, as near as can be computed, is L. 3 per ox or cow, and 15s. per ewe or full-grown sheep, pastured for the year. Draining^ 4'c. — Draining is carried on not only in the parish, but in the neighbourhood, to a very great extent. There is little under water, and therefore the object of the farmer is to prevent water from lodging on the surface and injuring the crops. Tiles are chiefly employed, and the drains are frequently made in every alternate furrow, and sometimes even in every furrow. They vary in depth from eighteen to twenty-four inches, and the expense of makingthe drains and furnishing the tiles is from lOd. to Is. the rood. Sometimes, the proprietor furnishes the tiles as an encouragement to the tenant to use them in draining his fields. At other times, the whole expense is borne by the tenant himself. The universal opi- nion among farmers seems to be, that the increase of the crop soon repays all the expense of the drains. Stones also are used, but rarely since tiles have been introduced, they having been found to 192 HADDINGTONSHIRE. answer the purpose. Sometimes stones are employed along with the tiles. This is undoubtedly the most effectual mode ; but the objection to it is, that it is both tedious and expensive, — whereas the advantage of tiles, is, that the work is performed with great ex- pedition, and with little expense of carriage. In some parts of the parish where the soil is deep, particularly at Southfield, trenching has been practised to a considerable ex- tent. Upon this subject there is a diversity of opinion, — some main- tain that the new earth brought to the surface requires a conside- rable number of years before it get into a proper bearing state. This opinion, however, is far from being general ; and many hold that the new soil brought to the surface, after a long period of rest, becomes far more productive, the old having been exhausted by continual cropping. The expense of the process must be a great obstacle in the way of its being carried on. Amount of raw Produce, — In the present circumstances of the parish, the amount of raw produce cannot be very accurately as- certained. Several of the tenants entered upon their farms only last year, and hence their farms were not cropped, either as they had been before, or as they vrill afterwards be. The farmers, in general, have made the returns required with the greatest readi- ness. According to the statements received, the amount for 1835 was nearly as follows : White crop, including wheat, barley, and oats, . 2060 acres. Green crop, including beans and pease, potatoes, turnips, cabbage, and mangel wurzel, ...... 848 Pasture, including links, . . . • . 1160 Bare fallow, . . . . .714 The value of all which, estimated according to last year's markets, will be about L. 30,000. The gardens in the parish are not deserving of particular no- tice. The three mansion-houses, Elvingston, Redcoll, and South- field, which last belongs to Lord Wemyss, and is occupied by the tenant, have each of them gardens inclosed with a good wall, where all kinds of vegetables are raised, and which are well stocked with fruit trees. Several of the farm-houses have also gardens attach- ed to them surrounded with a wall, in which all kinds of vegetables and fruits are reared. The tenant at Redhouse, on the northern extremity of the parish, has a large mail-garden, the produce of which is disposed of chiefly in the Edinburgh market ; but, as most of the garden lies in the parish of Aberlady, it does not fall to be IB. 193 taken oocioe of here. The grvss produce of all the gardens ma} amount to about L^ 200. Tlie two coal-pits now wrought on the Penston property pro* duoe from 12,000 to 1^,000 tons a-year. V. ��� Parochial Economy, Tlie nearest market-town is Haddington, which is about four miles distant from the church. It was long the princi^xil grain mariLet in Scotland ; but most of the &rmer^ in the wostom |virt« of the county carry the greater part of their grain to IXdkoith and Edinburgh, to both of which places Haddington is now iuforior as a grain market. rHkyes. — There are three villages in the {virish, — Samuolstoiu Longniddry, and Penston. Of these, Saniuelston contains a ^h^- puhtion of 187. It is an irregular scattered village* situato on the north bank of the I'yne, running north-east by SiUith-wost. In former times, it carried on a considerable trade in moaU but though there are still two com mills, the trade has ver\' much dwindliHl away. There is also a saw-mill attached to one of the coni-inills, which is of great use in cutting out paling and pieces of woihU for various purposes. There are three farms connecteil with it, Kast- mains, Backbrae, and Templehouse,* besides two smaller pieces of land given to the villagers for their accommodation. Longniddry is situated about half a mile fn^n the Frith, and is also an irregular straggling village. It is complotoly changinl from what it once was. In former times, four tenants lived in it, — one in Cooper^s Close, one in Burnfoot Close, and one on each side of the road, about the middle of the village, — who had each a considera- ble &rm. The proi^erty has been very much dinunished, and the whole has been thrown into one farm, with the exception of a few fields rented by some labourers in the villagi*, who employ horses for carrying on their business. The present farm-house, which is commodious and of good appearance, stands about 1200 yanls to the south of the road, running through the village. lit»twixt that hotise and the road, there were formerly a considerable mnnber of cot-houses, not a vestige of which now remains, and the placo where they stood is under crop, and very productive. The pre- sent mansion-house, which is let, stands about a guu-shot to the west of Cooper's Close. The garden is innncdiately in front, the * Besides Templehouse in Suinuclston, Uiure was in former times in tlu* puriHh another place of this name, situntc in a field betwixt Iloprig Mains and the piiblir rosd. Some of the old |>eopIc remember having seen the house*. 1 94 HADDINGTONSHIRE. offices on the west, with a small court, having altogether a deso- late appearance. On the east, are the ruins of the old chapel, cal- led John Knox's Kirk, and an old barn and stack-yard, occupied by one of the inhabitants, who has a small piece of land from the proprietor. Adjoining the offices to the west, some of the inhabi- tants remember several rows of houses, forming a little village of themselves, all of which have been swept away, without a stone re- maining to mark the place where they once stood. One old man remembers seventy houses being taken down. At that time, the farm of Southfield formed a part of the Longniddry estate. The present population of the village is 195. The village of Penston is chiefly inhabited by colliers. The farm-house is at the west end of it, and is commodious and in good repair. A handsome set of offices, with a steam-engine, has just been erected, and also a saw-mill. The houses in the village are in a state of bad repair ; the place is altogether dirty, and, though situated in the heart of one of the finest agricultural districts of Scotland, has a very uncomfortable and unhealthy appearance. It stands upon an eminence, about half a mile to the south of the great English road, and a mile west from Gladsmuir kirk. The inhabitants are supplied with water from three open wells, one at Northmains, another behind the old manse to the east, and an- other to the west of the farm-house, all on a line running from east to west. Were a proper drain to be formed on each side of the road, with a declivity from the houses, it would contribute much to the cleanliness and health of the place. The present popula- tion is 302. Means of Communication.^-'The means of communication en- joyed by the parish are very abundant. The great London road runs about two miles and a half through the centre of the parish. Along that road, six stage-coaches pass and repass every day, at different hours, besides the mail-coach. On the coast road, the North Berwick coach passes and repasses every day, besides car^ riers to Aberlady, Dirleton, and North Berwick, on different days of the week. There is also the road running from Coates, past Setonhill and Hairlaw, through Longniddry to the west. These ' roads are intersected by others running north and south, the whole breadth of the parish. They are all kept in good repair, by which means the facilities of intercourse are very great. The bridges in the parish are merely little arches, suited to the paltry streams of water that flow through them. GLADSMUIR. 195 Ecdetiastical State. — The church is situate nearly in the centre of the parish, and is accessible to all the inhabitants. None are fiuther distant from it than two and a half or three miles; and they do not seem to think the distance of much consequence, for the most distant are as regular in their attendance as those who are nearest It stands upon the highest point of the ridge be- twixt Tranent and Haddington, about 350 feet above the level of the sea, and 240 to the north of the great road. The situation is one of the finest in Scotland. On the north, it commands an ex- tensive view of the Frith of Forth, with the county of Fife stretch- ing beyond : to the east, all those objects that are most picturesque, the Byres hills, North Berwick Law, with the rich country around, the Bass and Traprane Law. On the south, the vale of the Tyne, with the Lammermuirs in the back ground, and to the west the Ochils, and some of the distant hills of Dumbarton and Perthshire, with lioith, Edinburgh, the Pentlands, and the rich country inter- ▼ening. But, though beautiful in point of situation, its appearance 18 mean and ruinous. It is small, cold, damp, and in bad repair. The churchyard is sufficiently large for the parish, but it is very wet. The greater part of it is surrounded by a wall, which is much broken down; the remaining part is protected by an hedge, which also is in a state of great decay. The church affords accommo- dation for 535 sitters, being at least 200 less than would be re- quired for the accommodation of the parish. The heritors grant- ed to the kirk- session sixty-two sittings, chiefly those set apart for the communion tables, to be let for a small price to the peo- ple when required. These seats are let at Is. each, and when not let, are occupied by those who cannot be accommodated other- wise. The rest of the sittings as usual are allotted to the heritors, according to their respective properties in the parish. The church was built by Baillie of Lamington in 1695. The present manse was built in 1725, previous to which the mi- nisters lived in what is still called the old manse, about a mile to the south-west of the church. The late incumbent finding the manse too small for his family, got a considerable addition made to it in 1803, consisting of a large room below, and two smaller rooms above. When the present incumbent came to the parish in 1833, consi- derable improvements were made upon the offices, and they are now in a state of pretty good repair. About twenty years ago, the garden was inclosed with a good stone wall, which was built by the heritors, the tenants having agreed to drive the carriages. But, 196 HADDINGTONSHIRE. besides what is enclosed, there is at least a rood outside the walls all around where all kinds of crops are raised. The glebe is small, consisting only of about 5 acres, including garden, barn-yard, &c The soil is loamy, upon a clayey bottom. Most of it has been drained with tile and stones within these two years. This year, the field immediately behind the manse, which was wet, uneven, and full of weeds, has been drained and trenched, with the view of its being laid down in grass, in a more favourable state. The annual value of the glebe, estimating it according to the lands in the neighbourhood, is about L. 8. The stipend con- sists of about 84 boUsof wheat, 137 bolls of barley, 24 bolls of oats, d5 bolls of meal, with L. 10 for communion elements, the amount of which varies according to the fiars of the county.* There are no chapels nor dissenting meeting-houses in the pa- rish. The number of persons of all ages attending the Establish- ed Church varies from 400 to 500. Those who are in the prac- tice of attending are never all present at the same time. From the uncomfortable state of the church, many are prevented from at- tending who otherwise would do it ; and a considerable number are very irregular in their attendance. The average number of com- municants is 500. It is not easy to ascertain how many attend dis- senting places of worship. The number, however, may be stated to be betwixt 40 and 50. All this leaves a very considerable pro- portion of the examinable persons of the parish who are not pre- sent at any place of public worship on the Lord's day. A society for religious purposes was instituted, in the beginning of last year. The design of it was to promote the progress of reli- gion in the parish, and to contribute to the objects recommended by the General Assembly. Its contributions during the first year of its existence amounted to L.6; and they are now upon the in- crease. The average annual amount of church collections for reli- gious and charitable purposes, for the last five years, is about L. 20. Education, — Besides the parochial, there are four private schools in the parish. The parochial school is situate at Gladsmuir, close by the church and manse, and is very much shut up by the school- master's garden. The number attending the school is, upon an * There have been eight ministers of Gladsmuir since its erection. I. Mango Watson ; 2. John Bell ; .3. Seatbrura ; 4. Andrew Robertson ; 5. William Robertson, ordained 17th April 1744; 6. Francis Cowan, ordained 5th April 1769; 7. George Hamilton, ordained 15th April 1790; 8. John Ramsay, admitted 14tli February 1833. GLADSMUIR. 197 ATerage, betwixt 80 and 100. The branches taught are such as are usual in parish schools, including Latin, Greek, French, and the practical parts of mathematics. The salary is the maximum. Lb 34) 4s. 4^. ; and the school fees amount to L. 40. The hours of attendance are, in winter, from nine to half-past three, with half an hour of interval ; and in summer, from nine to four, with an hour of interval. The school-house is too small ; but in other reqpects, it is comfortable enough. The schoolmaster's house is laige and commodious, consisting of two apartments below and three above, with closets. It is damp, however. The apartments are very low in the roof, and have much need of repairs. The schoolmaster holds also the offices of session-clerk and heritors' cleri^ the fees of which amount to about L. 30 a-year. There has been a school in the village of Samuelston, from time hnoiemorial. In former times, the master was allowed L. *2 a-vear from the heritors; but that has been discontinued for a consider- able time. Some years ago, when the schoolmasters' salaries were augmented, an attempt was made to get a chaldcr of victual to be divided betwixt the schoolmasters of Samuelston and Longniddry ; but it could not be obtained. The schoolmaster of Samuelston has a free house and school-house ; and he got lately from the pro- prietor a small piece of ground, as garden ground. That, with the school fees, is all he has to live upon. The school fees are small, and the number of scholars upon an average is about 30, af- fording the schoolmaster an annual income of about L. 15, a mi- serable pittance for the support of a man who holds the oflice of a schoolmaster. Were the schoolmaster of Gladsniuir to depend entirely upon voluntary support, his income could hardly be ex- pected to be much better. To what a lamentable state would edu- cation in the country be then reduced ! There is also a school at Longniddry of long standing. Here, too^ the schoolmaster is furnished with a free house and school- house. Two years ago, when a new schoolmaster was appointed, the people, very much to their credit, got the school-house repair- ed and fitted up in a handsome manner. And last year, the dwelling-house having only one apartment^ had another added to it, which makes the house pretty commodious. This is the more praiseworthy, as the people are all of the labouring class. The average number of scholars there, last season, was 60. An evening school is also kept for the benefit of those who are at work, through the day. Besides the school fees, the teacher at Longniddry has 198 HADDINGTONSHIRE. two guineas a^-year granted him by the proprietor, and the same sum by the Earl of Wemyss, which, though small, is a consider- able addition to his income, and is creditable to the Noble proprie- tors, who thus contribute to the education of the labouring poor, and in this way essentially promote the improvement of the com- munity. The annual income of the teacher here may amount to about L. 25. A school is also taught at the village of Penston, about a mile to the south-west of Gladsmuir, and consequently within reach of the parish school. This village being chiefly inhabited by colliers, the children are sent early to work ; and, after labouring one part of the day, they are sent to school, another part of the day, when there is a school at hand ; but were the distance considerable, this object could not be accomplished. It was with a view to such accommodation, that a school was erected and is still kept up at Penston. The teacher has to find a house for himself; and the school-house, through neglect, is in a wretched condition. The number of scholars is small, — last year not exceeding 25. The in- habitants are constantly shifting ; and lately the teacher was at the point of giving up the school for want of support. He is an old man, and his whole income last year did not amount to L. 10. Besides these schools, there is one at Cotyburn, a solitary place at the north-eastern extremity of the parish. This school is taught by a man who was in the army, and has a small weekly pension from Government. He has a dwelling-house and school-house at- tached to it ; for both of which he pays rent. The average num- ber of his scholars is 24, thus affording him an income of about L. 10, which, with his pension from Government, affords him a scanty subsistence. The price of education per week is from 3d. to 6d., or from 7s. 6d. to 13s. 6d. a-year, calculating the year at three quarters ; for, in country schools, the vacations are long, and seldom more than three quarters are paid for. And as Is. is paid for coals during the winter, the annual expense of education for the common branches amounts to from 8s. 6d. to 14s. 6d., — besides the expense of books, which is small considered by itself, but great to those labourers who have three or four children at school, and who have themselves an income not exceeding L. 25 a-year. Sunday Schools, — There are 3 Sunday schools in the parish, — one at Penston, the number of scholars attending which has, for some years, been very fluctuating. This arises, partly from the GLADSMUIB. 199 diflSculty of obtaining teachers properly quaU6ed, and partly irora the changes that are constantly taking place in the population. There is another at Longniddry. It began about two years ago. It is well taught and well attended, and has already been produc- tiTe of much good in the neighbourhood. The third is at Tra- broun, superintended by the Misses Law. But as that property has just been sold, it is doubtful whether this school will be con- tinued. Parents send their children to school at different ages. Some are sent when only four years old ; others not till they are seven or eight But care is taken that sooner or later all be taught to read. When the parents cannot afford to pay for them, they are paid for from the poors' fund, or by charitable individuals who take an interest in them. In this parish, the schools are so situated that they are accessible to all the inhabitants. There are none, as far as I know, above fifteen years of age who cannot read ; but there are many who cannot write. And there are some who have been very imperfectly educated themselves, and, having felt the evils of a neglected education, are anxious to have their children properly instructed. Libraries. — There are no parochial libraries in the parish. This want is supplied by three itinerating ones, which are stationed in each of the three villages of the parish. These libraries, after re- maining two years in their stations, are returned, and new ones sent in their place. In this way, the attention of the people is kept up by a regular succession of new books, which are well selected and arranged under the superintendence of Mr Samuel Brown at Haddington. Societies, — There are 2 friendly societies in the parish, — one at Longniddry of old standing, and another at Penston, instituted in 1823, both of which are in a thriving state. At Penston, a Mort- cloth Society was set on foot more than fifty years ago, by Lady Ross Baillie of Lamington, for the benefit of her colliers there. None but colliers connected with the coal-work have a right to be- come members. Lady Ross presented the society with three mort- cloths, and that number has been kept up ever since for the use of the members, who have now acquired a prescriptive right to em- ploy their own mortcloths, when they bury their dead in the church- yard of Gladsmuir. At Penston, there is also a Coffin Society, the object of which is to discontinue the use of mortcloths altogether. The members are furnished by the society with coffins, decently 200 HADDINGTONSHIRE. covered with black cloth, and no mortcloths are used. Those who are not members may also obtain a coffin from the society, at a cheap rate, by paying for it. This Society was instituted about two years ago. Besides these, there is a yearly Society at Penston, the mem- bers of which draw sick money in case of illness, and receive a sum of money for the burial of their dead. Connected with the parish is a Frame Society for the protection of the dead, to which the greater part of the parish belong. The safes are of malleable iron, and of a construction such as is usually employed. When used, they are generally sunk about two or three feet below the surface of the ground. A Savings' Bank was instituted some years ago, but itgra^ dually died away, and now no longer exists. A Curling Society was begun in December last, but there having been very little frost, the ice was never in a condition to be played upon, and the members of course were deprived of an opportunity of displaying their skill. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons upon the poors' roll is 41 ; and the average sum allowed to each per week is 1 s. dd. The sum allowed varies according to circumstances. Some get Is., some 2s., some ds., and one family gets 4s. per week. In addition to which, most of them get a cart of coals, in the course of the winter. A collection is made at the church for this purpose, which comes far short of what is laid out for coals. Whatever is deficient is taken from the poors' fund. Besides those who receive a regular allowance, there are always some who receive occasional aid, in cases of distress or unexpected misfortunes. Five, in addi- tion to their weekly allowance, get their house rents paid. The average amount of annual contributions for their relief for five years is L. 200, 9s. 3d. of which L. 167, 17s. arises from an assessment which is laid on once a-year, at a meeting of heritors called for the purpose. The collections at the church amount to L. 16, 6s. 5d.; mortcloths L. 4, 18s. 2d.; putting in stones for marking burial ground 17s. 5d. ; seat rents, lis. 7d. ; marriages, &c. L. 1, 8s. 8d.; interest of a bill for L. 170, L. 8, 10s. The poor, with a very few exceptions, are all paid in money, and, there- fore, in the present depressed state of the grain market, their allow- ance is much greater than when provisions are dearer. The poor in general have little reluctance to apply for parochial aid, when- ever they think it can be obtained. Children also who are living in comfortable circumstances, are very much disposed to leave their aged parents to shift for themselves, or to get relief for them from the parish. The^collections at the church are very small, chiefly OLADSMUIR. 201 ftmft an idea, which very generally prevails among the labouring efaunes, that there is no occasion for them to give any thing to the poor, because what they give is just so much saved to the proprie- ton, who are bound by law to support them. In this way the di- nne law of charity, in these times of innovation, is too generally evaded. Mehmufs, — Thereare, at present, in the parish, ten public houses, or houses licensed for retailing spirits. It cannot be doubted that 80 many of them, when they are not needed, have a very pernicious influence upon the morals of the people. When there are so many persons anxious to get customers to their houses, they cannot be expected to be very careful to prevent that excess in drinking which prevails among us to such an extent The act permit- ting publicans to keep their houses open on Sundays ought im- mediately to be abolished, as one of the most ill-advised that was ever sanctioned by a British Parliament. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the former Statistical Account was drawn up, a striking im- provement has taken place in the roads, in the cultivation, drain- ing and fencing of the fields. Different kinds of manure have also been employed with success. The farm-houses and offices have undergone a proportional improvement. In consequence of the de- pressed state of the markets, some of the tenants are beginning to throw more of their fields into pasture, which promises not only to make them a suitable return, but which will prevent them from be- ing exhausted by overcropping. It also appears from tlie former Statistical Account, that 134 black-cattle were kept ; now they amount to 500. Then the number of sheep was 100 ; now they amount to betwixt 2000 and 3000. Then rape-cake and bone dust were never thought of as a manure ; now they are very much employed. All this shews the great attention that is paid to the enriching and improving of the soil. The wages of labourers and tradesmen also have risen almost an half, while the price of provi- sions and clothes has been as low as at that period. Gladsmuir kirk has often been remarked as liable to be struck by lightning. A remarkable instance of this happened 21st July 1769. It is thus described in the former Statistical Account : — ** A thunder-storm began in the north, and came gradually nearer, having circled round by the west. The school, where above seventy children were then assembled, unfortunately stood in its way. The thunder burst upon the house, and seemed at first to 202 HADDINGTONSHIRE. have levelled it with the ground. The walls were rent, the windows shattered, and the roof demolished. A thick darkness, caused by the smoke and dust, for a while concealed the extent of the mis- chief. When it subsided, the neighbours who first entered, anxious for the fate of their children, had reason to fear the worst; for few signs of life appeared. The whole crowd of little ones, either stun- ned or terrified, lay stretched upon the ground beneath the tables or benches where they sat. Many were quite senseless, but after- wards recovered. Two boys were killed outright, and the master with many others much injured. The effect of such a scene is not soon worn off from the minds of children. A black cloud still ter- rifies the whole school, and a clap of thunder more than ordinarily loud, scatters the whole little troop in an instant." Another instance afterwards occurred. While a storm of thunder and lightning was passing over the place, the family at the manse were alarmed, and darkened the windows. The females crowded together in the middle of the dining-room for shelter. One of the maids who had occasion to go up stairs, had no sooner got to the bottom of the stair, than the lightning struck the house and killed her in an in- stant. To prevent such &tal accidents in future, conductors were placed upon the manse, and are still there. September 1886. PARISH OF DIRLETON. PRESBYTERY OF HADDINOTON, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. JOHN AINSLIE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. • ' Name. — The parish of Dirleton lies in the county of Hadding- ton. The etymology of the name is very doubtful, some deriving it from the Scottish ^* dirly** which signifies a tremulous motion ; others from DeriH, who was King of the Picts about the end of the seventh century, and is believed to have been the friend and coad* jutor of Baldred, who first built Christian churches in East Lo-* * In drawing up this account, the writer begi to acknowledge his great oblintloBS to John P. Wood, Esq.; Robert Hope, Esq. Fentonbams; and Mr Hendertoo, parochial teacher. DIRLETON. 203 thian. Brudi V., son of Derili, granted the island of Lochleven to St Serf and the Culdees residing there.* (Hist Culd. 131.) The village of Gulane, two miles to the west of Dirleton, for- merly gave its name to the parish. Its old name was Grolyn, so called from an adjoining piece of water, now drained ; Golyn in the British signifying a little lake. Extent and Boundaries. — This parish forms the most northern part of the county. From east to west it is 5 J miles in length ; its greatest breadth from north to south is 4^ miles. It is bound- ed on the north by the Frith of Forth ; on the south by the Pef- fer, a rivulet which separates it from the parish of Athelstane- ford; on the east by the parish of North Berwick; and on the west by that of Aberlady. Topographical Appearances. — Its shape is compact, nearly re- sembling a tortoise with its head to the west. It is composed of two parallel ridges, of gentle elevation, which run from east to west, and trisect the arable land into nearly equal parts. Its ge- neral appearance is flat, and rather uninteresting, — richness of soil much more than picturesqueness of scenery being its characteristic feature. So far back as the year 1627, we have in a Statistical Account of the parish at that period,-|- the following testimony to its fertility : " There is no occasion of lyming within the Lord- schippof Diriltoune, siclyke ther growes noe quheate in all the toun of Gulane, Elbottle, and most pairt of the Colledge steid." But though the general aspect of the parish be tame, it is greatly re- lieved to the north by the Frith of Forth, with its many interesting islands, and also by the village of Dirleton, which, for locality and * According to Wintoun there was another of the same name, called Nectan Der- \jt who reigned in 716. Sevyn hundyr wynter and sextine* Quhen lychtarc was the virgyue clenc, Pape of Rome than Grcgore. The second quham of yhe herd before, And Anastas than Emproure, The fyrst yhcre of hys honoure, Nectan Derly was then rcgnand, Owre the Pcychtis in Scotland. Wintoun's Cronykil, Vol. i. B. t. -{• This document is one of those drawn up at this time by order of Government to the different Presbyteries of Scotland, forty-eight only of which are preserved in tlM Riffiflter- Office. The Account of this parish was kindly communicated to me by A. M*Donald, Esq. Register- Office. Its commencement runs thus : ** Estate of the kirk and paroche of Dirletoun answerable unto the articles conteaned in the ordi- nanee of his Migesty*s Commissioners, qubilk estate is given up by Maister Andro Makghie Minr. See.** Its information is, however, confined to a statement of the rent and teind of the land, or, in its own words, *' for tryall of the worth and rent of everio loume of the parochina in itocke and teind, we dedair as ibllowis.** 204 HADDINGTONSHIRE. external decorations, forms a marked contrast to the rest of the parish. It is delightfully situated on a rising ground about a mile and a half from the sea, a view of which it commands ; to the east> North Berwick Law, the Bass, and the Island of May, add great- ly to the beauty and interest of the scene ; while the venerable castle, on a rock of considerable elevation, at the eastern extremi- ty of the village, overhanging with its " ivy-mantled towers" a beautiful flower garden, and some of the finest evergreens in Scot- land, together with the fine open green in the centre of the village, which is composed of neat, and in some cases, singularly tasteful cottages, ornamented with shrubs and flower plats, all combine to form one of the loveliest villages in the country. The coast, about eight miles in extent, is, towards the east, flat and sandy ; advan- cing westwards it becomes rocky, and, in some places, almost bold ; further west, where it joins Aberlady parish, we have again a fine sandy beach, beneath which is a strong clay. Some parts of these sands are unsafe, from which serious accidents- have resulted. Half way between Gulane and Dirleton, the links assume a pecij- liar and interesting aspect, starting ofi* from almost a dead level into a singularly irregular form, presenting quite the appearance of a mountainous district in miniature. I do not know whether this be owing wholly to the drifting of the sand, or in some measure to the form of the subjacent rocks. There are three islands be- longing to the parish ; Fidrey or Fetheray, Ibris or Eyebrochy, and the Lamb. The first of these is situated directly opposite the village of Dirleton, about a mile from the shore. Its appearance is highly picturesque, the western part is of considerable elevation, and is united by an isthmus to the eastern part, which rises in a castellated form, and is called the Castle of Tarbet. Formerly it was tenanted by rabbits, which have been supplanted by a colony of rats, brought thither by a vessel that was wrecked on the island. Climate, — The climate is found to be peculiarly trying for those afiected with pulmonary complaints. Agues and nervous diseases, according to the last Statistical Report of 1792, were common at that time. The former are now unknown, which is to be ascribed to the draining of the land. Hydrography. — The Frith of Forth, as already stated, is the northern boundary of the parish. There are, besides, two small sluggish streams difiering little from large drains, the Millburn and the Peffer, which is believed to signify " the slow running river.^ The latter is the southern boundary of the parish ; it rises at Cong- DIRLETON. 205 alton, at the south-east corner of the parish, and immediately di« Tides into two streams, one running east, and fallinor into the sea near Tynningham, the other west, which, after a course of eight miles, falls into the sea at Aberlady. Geology. — The fonnations here are of the secondary class, the sandstone or great coal formation, with their accompanying rocks of igneous origin. It is to these we owe any slight elevations that are to be met with in the parish. The sandstone throughout seems to be buried beneath these — appearing only occasionally here and there, having been forced to the surface by the rise of the igneous rocks. Gulane Hill, however, of considerable height, is of sand- stone, part of which is regularly quarried, and produces excellent freestone ; ironstone is also to be found there in considerable quan- tity, and was at one time wrought. The igneous rocks present the diflferent varieties of whinstone or secondary trap. In the middle of the parish, and also on the coast, we have basalt, and at one place its characteristic features are beautifully developed. Some time ago upwards of thirty pentagonal pillars were laid bare in the farm of West Fenton. The parish, as already observed, is composed of two parallel ridges, running east and west The centre of the southern ridge, from Fenton Tower on the east, to the village of Fenton on the west, rests on whinstone, which crops to the surface occasionally through its course. At the latter place, basalt makes Its appearance, and continues the ridge for about a mile further to the westward. Limestone is found within the tract of the basalt, possibly raised by it to the surfiice, but it di])s so rapidly to the south, as to have been considered unworthy of being wrought. It is also to be met with at the bottom of the whinstone quarry at Burnside, near the east side of the parish : but from the depth of the covering, and from the declination of the strata, dipping to the south at an angle of upwards of 30°, it has never been wrought. In the north- em ridge, the whinstone appears again at Dirleton, with the bare face of the rock to the west, and its tail of water-worn stones and till, covered with more recent soil, stretching eastward. This rock is of felspar porphyry, in which occur frequent veins of a dark-red jasper. The western end of this ridge rests on freestone and ironstone, near Gulane, the surface being poor, barren sand. Coal has been found on the north-east side of the parish ; but as it rises nearly to the surfece of comparatively high ground, within a few hundred yards of the sea, and dips rapidly beneath the low flat ground along HADDINGTON. O 206 HADDINGTONSHIRE. the shore, there is no probability of its ever being wrought with ad- vantage. In the southern part of the parish, the whinstone rock is found overlaid with clay of different colours, mixed with rounded water- worn stones, to the depth of 10, 14, and 30 feet. In one part, viz. the site of Fenton Barns, the whinstone forms a basin of 900 yards in diameter, and is filled to the level with the above de- posit. In deepening the PeSWr, in 1829, the workmen found a deer's horn, imbedded in the hard till, 7 feet below the sur- &ce, in a mixture of clay and minute gravel. About a mile fur- ther east, on the banks of the same stream, in a soft clay, there have been found a considerable number of oak trees from 5 to 10 feet below the surface ; nuts also and millet-seed in considerable quantity were discovered, — their position seeming to indicate the ac- tion of water. They grew readily when put into the ground. Boulders from 1 to 3 feet long, occur imbedded in the soil, a mile to the east of the basalt rock, which forms the western extremity of the southern ridge of the parish ; none, however, have been found to the west of that rock. The coast is composed of beauti- fully rich sand, and of the whinstone and basalt, already spoken of^ interspersed with sandstone ; in several places, it is evidently mak- ing advances upon the sea. The islands also are of the trap formation* Soil. — About 300 acres along the southern side of the parish are soft moorish soil, naturally wet, on a very retentive subsoil ; furze and heather seem to have been their natural productions. On the northern side of the parish, above 400 acres are dry, sandy, or gravelly rich loam ; the remainder of the arable land is general- ly hazel loam on till, or a clayey bottom. From Gulane, east- ward, there are about 100 acres covered with sand, which seems to have been transported by the wind from the hill that stands to the west of that village. Tradition, fifty years ago, used to assign its commencement to the time when the gap, still so ob- vious, was made in the hill; and in the Statistical Report of 1627, the precise period of its commencement seems obviously to be pointed at, for it is said, ^^ the gleib is so overblown with sand, as, the largest aiker thereof has not been manured these five yeiris by-gone ;" and elsewhere, after enumerating the different lands in Gulane, it thus concludes : " As for the rest of the few aikera of Gulane, they are all lying waste, and unlaboured, and never lickUe to be laboured. Besides the rent of the rest of the land of Gu- lane quhilk ^e have given up, cannot be counted constant rent, in respect the samyn is licklie to be overblown more with sand;'* and DIRLETON. 207 in fiirther corrobonition of tliis opinion, tliere is to be found be- neath the snnd, a clay soil, in which old ridges arc to be dis- tinctly traced. In Aberlady parish, to the west of this, a similar catastrophe has taken place ; a few years ago, whole fields were laid bare of the sand, beneath which were discovered crooked old-fashioned rid^fes in a fine clayey loam. But at whatever period the blowing of the sand commenced, (and the probability is that it was about tlic beginning of the seventeenth century,) it must have originated in the removal of the brushwood, and binding plants which covered the hilL The mischief is still increasing, and instead of any mea- sures being taken to prevent it, a portion of the hill is annually ploughed. Botany. — From the highly cultivated state of the parish, the situation is not favourable for the botanist. It is only on the sandy common on the coast, that a few of the rarer plants have been found. In the cultivated fields, there arc found abundantly, the Sikne noctijloraf Sherardia arvensis^ Centaurea Scabiosa^ and oc- casionally Alopecurus agrestis^ Silene conica^ S. Anfflica^ Saxifraga tfidaetylitesy and Fedia dentata. Campanula hyhrida has also been discovered this summer (1836,) in the neighbourhood of the vil« lage. In the summer of 1835, a continental spocics of Alysmm was discovered in an uncultivated field a mile and a half from the sea. The species is the calycinum of Linna;us. This, it is believed, is the first British station in which the plant has been found. Gulane links, in this parish, are well known to botanists as the sta- tion for Utricularia vulgaris^ Inula dysentcrica^ Samolus vale^ Tondij and Limosella aquatica. The other vegetable productions are those found on light sandy shores. II. — Civil History. Ancient Family of Vaux^ ^c, — The Anglo-Norman family of Vaux or De Vallibus obtained in the twelfth centurj' a part of the manor of Golyn and Dirleton, with part of the lands of Fen- ton. The daughter and heiress of William De Vallibus, Lord of Dirleton, brought these estates to her husband. Sir John Haly- burton, about 1340. Their grandson. Sir Walter Halyburton of Dirleton, High- Treasurer of Scotland, or his son. Sir John Halyburton, was created a peer before 2d January 1447-8. Pa^ trick, sixth Lord Halyburton of Dirleton, died 1506, being suc- ceeded in his title and estate by his eldest daughter Janet, mar- ried to William second Lord Ruthven. Their son, Patrick Lord Ruthven and Dirleton, was grandfather of John Earl of Gov* \ 208 HADDINGTONSHIRE. rie, whose attempt upon King James VI,, 5th August 1600, terminated in his death and forfeiture. It appears that Dirleton was the bribe which he held out to the cupidity of Logan of Restal- rig to engage his assistance in that affair. Logan in one of his let- ters says, " I care not for all the other land I have in the kingdom, if I may grip of Dirleton, for I esteem it the pleasantest dwelling in Scotland.'* On the forfeiture of Gowrie, Dirleton was grant- ed to Sir Thomas Erskine, one of the first who came to the assist- ance of the King, and who killed with his own hand Alexander Ruthven while strifggHng with James. He was created Lord Dirle- ton in 1603, and Viscount Fenton on the 1 8th March 1606, from a property in this parish, — this being the first instance of that title in Scotland. He was in 1619 created Earl of Kellie. These titles are now held by the present Earl of Marr. Dirleton appears to have passed by purchase from that family to Sir John Maxwell of Innerwick, who is known to have had a royal charter of Dirleton, Fenton, &c. in June 1631. In 1646 he was created Earl of Dirle- ton and Lord El bottle, both titles being tak^n from this parish. These became extinct on his death before 1653, as he left no male issue. His two daughters were, Elizabeth Duchess of Hamilton, and Diana Viscountess Cranburn, mother of the third Earl of Salisbury. Family of Nisbet of Dirleton, — Dirleton was purchased in 1663, by Sir John Nisbet, then the most eminent lawyer at the Scottish Bar, afterwards Lord of Session and King's Advocate. He was second son of Sir Patrick Nisbet of East Bank, Lord of Session, was born in 1610, and died in 1688. His only survivinfj child, Joanna Nisbet, was married first to Sir William Scott of Harden, Knight ; and second to Sir William Scott of Thirlestane, Bart. Having no issue he settled his great estates on his nephew, William Nisbet of Craigintinny, Member for the county of Had- dington in the last Parliament of Scotland, and in the first of Great Britain. From him descended the late William Hamilton Nisbet, Esq. of Beil and Dirleton, also Member for the same county, whose daughter and heiress is married to Robert Fer- guson, Esq. of Raith, the present Member for Haddingtonshire, for which he was returned in 1835. The castle of Dirleton, which as a ruin is still in good preser- vation, was built by the family of Vaux or De Vallibus, about the twelfth centurj', and from its present appearance must have been a large and strong place. In June 1298, when Edward L invad- ed Scotland by the eastern border, no place resisted him except the castle of Dirleton. During the siege, about the beginning of DIRLETON. 209 July, the English soldiers, reduced to great scarcity of provisions, subsisted on the pease and beans which they picked up in the fields, presenting a favourable view of the state of agriculture in East Lothian so far back as the thirteenth century. After a resolute defence, the castle surrendered to Anthony Beck, Bishop of Durham. It was still in the possession of the English in 1306, as appears from the Wardrobe accounts of Ed- ward L, containing entries of provisions and ammunition for the castle of Dirleton. When Cromwell invaded Scotland in 1650, # |he castle was, after a gallant defence, taken by Lambert, and by / him dismantled and reduced to its present ruinous state. Ancient Family of Livington, — Saltcoats in this parish, now a ruin, belonged to an ancient family of the name of Livington. Nisbet in his Heraldry notices a seal inscribed Sig. Patricie Livingtoun de Saltcoat, 1593. The first of the family is said to have received a grant of land extending from Gulane point to North Berwick Law, for having destroyed a boar which infested the neighbourhood. This tradition is somewhat confirmed by the fact, that the estate of Saltcoats extends from Gulane point almost to North Berwick Law, though many other properties intervene. The glove by which Livington is said to have protected his arm during the combat was sold about fifty years ago, and his helmet hung in the family aisle in the church, till very recently, when it disappeared. A good painting of the fight was some years since in possession of an old servant of the family. There is a small stream at the north of the Peffer, called Livington's ford, where the boar is said to have been slain. Another account gives to Prora (a farm in Athelstaneford parish) the honour of this exploit; one of the fields there being called the ^' Bloody Lands,*' in which there is a large stone, evidently raised at considerable expense, the name of which is the " Boar stone.'"* This estate of Saltcoats came by an heir female to the Hamiltons of Pencaitland, from whom it descended to the present proprietor, Lady Ruthven. Fentonbams, — Fentonbarns, in this parish, belonged to John Preston, Lord of Session from 1596-1609, and Lord President of that court, from 1609 to his death in 1616. He settled Fenton- barns on his second son, Sir Michael Preston of Fenton, who, 10th February 1631, in a quarrel with two brothers of the name of Smith, in the neighbouring village of Drem, killed one, and se- verely wounded the other. He was immediately apprehended, tried before the Justiciary court, 15th February, convicted and beheaded at the Cross of Edinburgh, the same or the uexl Avj« 210 HADDINGTONSUIHE. Congalton. — The barony of Congalton in this parish, gave name to a very ancient family, that subsisted here for twenty generations in the male line. The first on record is Robert de Congaltoun, who witnessed a charter of Richard de Mereville, Constable of Scotland, without date, but granted about 1162, engraved in Anderson's Diplomata. The elder branch of the family succeeding through heir- esses to the estates of Hepburn of Keith, in East Lothian, and Rickart of Rickartoun, in the county of Kincardine, assumed the names of Rickart Hepburn. Robert Hepburn Congalton, of Keith and Congalton, — th^ eighteenth generation of the family, sold Congalton to his brother Charles, whose son, William Congalton of Congalton, married Mary, daughter of David Bethune, of Balfour in Fife. His son, Charles Congalton of Congalton, succeeding to the estate of that ancient and distinguished family, of whom was Cardinal Bethune, took the name and arms of Bethune of Balfour, and sold Con- galton, which was afterwards purchased by the heir-male. Colonel Robert Rickart Hepburn, of Keith and Rickartoun, Member of Parliament for the county of Kincardine, who, dying in 1804, was buried with his ancestors in the church of Grolyn. Congalton was sold to William Grant, Esq., in whose family it remains. ** On 8th May 1509, a Royal Charter was granted by King James IV. to Henry Congalton, of Congalton, of the King's Island and lands of Fetheray, along with the hill of the castle (Monte Cas- tri) of the same called Tarbet; also all and whole the King's Is- land and lands of Craigleith, with thepertinentsof the same, lying within the Frith of Forth, county of Edinburgh, and constabulary of Haddington, creating, uniting, annexing, and incorporating all these islands, lands, and hill of the castle aforesaid, with the per- tinents of the same, in one whole and free barony, to be called the barony of Tarbet, to be held of the King, paying one penny of Scots money, at the said hill of the Castle of Tarbet, in name of blench farm if required, along with the marriage of the said heirs of Henry Congalton, when it shall happen." Great Seal Regis- ter, Book 15, No. 115. Ancient Chapels^ tober 20th 17*24, aged 58 jeanL Ukm Heriot, firmer id Castle- mains, left ta Urn foor of Dirleton L. 100 Scots. He died March iMi 1725, aged 60 years. William Nisbet of Dirleton, left to the poor of Dirleton, L. 1000 Scots. He died May 19th 1733, aged 35 years. Mrs Carmichael of Saltcoats, with consent of her husband, the Honourable Mr William Carmichael of Skirling, Advocate, assigned to this session, July 1755, a bond for L. 100 Sterling, with interest from Martinmas 1753. Mrs Carmichael gave also to this session L. 50 Sterling, for educating poor chil- dren in this parish January 1761. At her death in 1776 she left L. 20 more, to purchase books for poor scholars at Dirleton school. Mrs Hamilton of Belhaven, who died in 1797, bequeathed a le- gacy of L. 50 Sterling to the parish of Dirleton, " the interest of which to be divided yearly at Christmas, amongst the three oldest poor people on the roll, in any way that is most to their comfort, over and above what they should have as parish pensioners." The weekly amount of church collections averages L. J, 5s., the explanation of which will be given under the head Poor Funds. Education. — In the Statistical Report of 1627, it is said ^' we have neyther provision, nor foundation for a schoole in all the pa- roche, bot a great necessitie thairof, especiallie in the town of Dir- iltown, if it could be had." There are now three schools in the parish, — the parochial school in Dirleton, aud two private schools, one in Gulane, the other at Kingston. The average number of scholars is as follows : Dirleton 80, Gulane 50, Kingston 80. To the last of these a considerable number of the children come from the two adjoining parishes. The branches of education taught are reading, writing, and arithmetic, and at the parish school, in addition to this, Greek, Latin, French, mensuration in all its branches, together with geography and book-keeping. The pa- rochial teacher has the maximum salary, L. 34, 4s. lOd. The school fees amount to about L. 30. The teacher at Gulane is generously allowed by Mrs Ferguson, L. 5 per annum, a free school-house and garden. The school at Kingston has been lately much enlarged and improved, by the liberality of John Dixon, Esq. residing there. There are thus ample means provided for the education of the whole parish. That this is fully taken advan- tage of, I fear cannot be said : nay, I should be inclined to suspect, that the anxiety of parents for the education of their children is rather declining. This may be ascribed in some measure to the depressed state of agriculture for some time. I am ivot. ^a:^^^^^ 220 HADDINGTONSHIRE. however, of any of the rising generation, who are not now in the course of receiving the common branches of education ; the heri- tors having generously provided means for educating the child- ren of the poor. Library. — There are three libraries in the village of Dirleton, the first the parish library, purchased by collections at the church, consisting of 161 volumes, chiefly religious. The second, the sub- scription library, of 121 volumes, miscellaneous. The third, of 1 SO volumes for the school. There is also occasionally an itine- rating library from Mr Brown of Haddington. It is to be feared, that they are not so much valued as they ought to be. Societies. — In the year 1763, a friendly society for the parish was established, " for the support of its members under affliction, and for the decent interment of themselves and wives." This so- ciety continues still to prosper, having at present 140 members, and is in possession of L. 250 of stock. It is open for tradesmen, servants, and others, betwixt the ages of sixteen and twenty. It has been attended with decidedly beneficial effects ; and it were to be desired that it should receive more encouragement from the wealthier classes in the parish. Savings Bank. — There is also a savings bank in the parish, in- stituted in the year 1819. The present deposits amount to L.290; the number of depositors is 36 : and perhaps it may be of some importance to remark, that the class chiefly benefited by it are the female house-servants. Poor Funds. — Previous to the year 1823, the poor of this pa- rish were provided for by assessment. At that time the late Rev. Mr Stark, the excellent and able minister of the parish, set him- self to the task of effecting an entire change in the administration of the poor funds, by substituting voluntary contributions in room of the assessment * That system has been followed ever since, with considerable success ; in proof of which the following state- ment of the funds, and number of the poor on the roll is given. DR. Poor Funds, 1821. CR. Jan. 1. Balance, L. 1 6 36 poor on the roll, L. 124 5 Assessment received, 07 IB G Legacy interest to 3 oldest Collecticms, 21 8 4 paupers, 2 10 Interest of stock, 44 Casual poor, including house Mortcloth, 2 11 8 rents, poor scholars, coals, and incidental expenses, 33 8 2 Balance, Dec. 31, 1821. (t 15 10 L. 166 19 L. 166 19 * See a full exposition of his views in his interesting volume entitled " A consi- deration of the affairs of the Poor, hy the Rev. W. Stark." DIRLETON. 221 DR. 1835. CH. Jan. 1. Balance, • L.62 3 10 t25 poor on the roll, - L. 94 16 Collections, - 84 6 Legacy interest to 3 oldest Interest of money, • 44 paupers, - 2 10 Mortcloth. - 5 2 8 Casual poor, including house rents, coals, poor scholars, and incidental expenses, 35 3 10 Balance Dec. 31, 1835, 63 2 8 L. 195 1 e L. 195 12 6 From this it is evident, that there has been a considerable re- duction in the number of paupers ; but in addition to this, and what is of infinitely more importance than the amoint of money saved, it is believed that it is promoting in some measure the revival of that wholesome spirit of independence which an assessment never fails to destroy, and strengthening the power of the relative ties, which it so fearfully impairs* It is but fair, however, to add, that it is not in the fiill sense of the word voluntary, as there exists an understanding among the proprietors and tenantry that they shall contribute a certain sum weekly at the church door. This, however, is not enforced, and of course the burden of the support falls upon the more generous, and on those who are most regular in their at- tendance at church* Miscellaneous Observations. We have already stated our belief, that, since the time of the Statistical Report of 1627, the population of the parish must have diminished very considerably, though to what extent, or from what precise cause, it is impossible to ascertain. Since the period of the last Statistical Account (1792,) in consequence of the improve- ments in agriculture, it has materially increased, the number be- ing then 1200, and now 1431. It is somewhat singular, however, that the average number of births and marriages, so far as can be ascertained, of that and the present period, is very nearly the same ; while it is believed that, in the present, there is a considerable di- minution in the deaths. The real rental of the parish was, in the year 1790, L. 6000, and is now supposed to be about L. 10,227, or nearly the same as the valued rental in Scots money. No account is given in the re- port of 1627 of the gross rental, but the rent per acre seems to have varied from one to two bolls, for we have many such state- ments as the following : ^^ George Home has 6 aikers worth iu yearlie rent to him 6 holies.. Patrick Lindsay has eleven aikers worth 20 bolls." The crops cultivated by the last report were, HADDINGTON. P Present, 500 Acrct, - 1300 800 200 1 2(K) 700 51)0 600 50 20O 1000 700 222 HADDINGTONSHIRE. \Vhcat, Barley, Oats, Pease and Beans, Turnips, Grass, Of potatoes it is said, in the former Report, " they now consti- tute a great part of the living of the common people, and are much cultivated." At present there are 100 acres grown. The land under cultivation was then 4020 acres; at present, 5325. Mr Nisbet of Dirleton was beginning then to plant trees. Now there are 300 acres under wood. " The people were then beginning to enclose their fields ;" now there is hardly one open field in the parish — and the contrast between the present and past state of the roads will be sufficiently understood, when it is stated that, fifty years ago, one- half of the road between Dirleton and North Berwick was rtepaired every spring by the very primitive method of ploughing, rolling, and harrowing. There seems to have been no assessment at that time, and the number on the poor roll was 40 ; at present, with our increased popu- lation, we have only 25. In the dress of the peasantry there is a marked improvement ; the homely articles of domestic manufacture being now entirely supplanted by others of a finer and more elegant texture. The wages of male house-servants have risen considerably. They were then from L. 6 to L. 7, now from L. 8 to L. 12 ; female house- sen'ants then had from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3, now from L. 4 to L, 9. The condition of the hinds also is improved. They now receive 24 bushels of oats annually more than at that period, and as more valuable varieties of oats and barley are now cultivated, the addi- tional advantage to them from that source is equal to a stone at least of meal on every quarter of grain which they receive. The keep of the cow is also superior to what it was then. In regard to education, it is not easy to form any comparative estimate. There is little reason, however, to believe that any great progress has been made ; the education of the old people appearing to be of very much the same character^ and equally widely diffused as among the rising generation. In respect of morals, there is the same difficulty in coming to an accurate opinion. The general impression, however, of those who have lived longest in the parish, is decidedly favourable to the present time. We know not whether the following extract from the kirk-session re- DIRLETON. 223 cords of dd December 1671 will warrant an inference in favour of the improved state of the parish. It is curious, however, and as such we give it. " Given to ye sklatter, Patrick Thomson, for sklatting a part, and pointing another part of the church, 4 lib. ; to his servant for drink money 3 B. 4d. And spent with him in drink 6 B. 8d. ; for nails 15 B. ; sum of all the particular pro- ceedings 5 lib. 5 B." In the absence of authentic sources of information, we cannot speak decidedly , yet we think it may be confidently presumed that a progressive improvement in the moral and religious charac- ter of the people must have accompanied the faithful and devoted exertions of their late pastor, who, for so many years, ministered among them. To testify their sense of his worth, and their value of his services, an elegant obelisk, with a just tribute to his me- mory inscribed, has been erected by the parishioners of Dirle- ton. Statistical table, — being in part a summary of the foregoing Report: Number of square miles in the parish, 14 Ditto of acres, - - 7500 Ditto do. arable, - 5325 Ditto do. in plantations, • 300 Ditto do. in old pasture and waste lands, - - - 1875 Valued rental of parish, Scots, L. 10,227 lOs. 4d. Real rental supposed nearly the same» Sterling, Number of farms, - - 22 Length of leases, 19 or 21 years. Amount of crops usually raised. Wheat, 1S()0 acres Turnips, 200 acres. Barley, 200 Grass, 700 Oats, 700 PoUtoes, 100 Pease, 600 Amount per Scotch acre. Wheat, 86 bushels, PoUtocs, 9 tons. Barley, A2 Turnips, 24 Oats, 60 Uay, 180 stone, Beans and pease, - 28 bushels. Work horses, 204 Saddle and gig-horses, 1 8 Ploughgates charged for statute !•• bour, - - - 88| Actual number of ploughs, - 100 Number of cattle fed yearly, - 466 of milk cows, - 114 of sheep, - - 2000 of pigs, - - 900 Thrashing mills, . • 22 Of these steam, . . 9 Meal and flour windmill, - 1 Population in 1791, - . 1200 in 1801, . - 115 Population in 1811, . - 1211 in 1821, . - 13U in 1831, . - 1385 in 1836, - - 1434 Individuals belonging to the Esta- blished Church, - - 1350 Do. to the Dissenting, - 87 Average number of marriages, 12 of births,' - 32 of deaths, unknown. Number of farmers, - - 22 Do. of farm.servants, - 142 Smiths, - - - 10 Weavers, - - - 7 Wrights, . - - 11 Tailors, ... 9 Shoe^makers, ... 8 Bakers, - . - - 3 Masons, - • - 6 Slaters, . . - 2 Hind's wages averaging 10s. a week. Day labourer's do. Is. 6d. per day. House- servant's do. from L. 8 to^L. 12. Female, do. do. L. 4 to L. 9. Tradesmen, do. 2s. 6d. to Ss, Churches, . - - I Number of sittings, - - 600 of communicants, - 480 Schools, - - " . ^ Dirlcton parish -school, number of chil- dren, - - - 80 Gulane private, do. - - 50 Kingston do. do. - - 80 Salary of parish school, L. 34, 4s. lOd. Branches uught, reading, writing and arithmetic. 224 HADDINGTONSHIRE. Fees per quarter, 28. Od. Ss. 6d. 4s. 6d. Allowances from Is. to 4s. per week, and Higher branches, 7s. 6d. L. 1 at death, Number on the poor's roll in 1836, 25 Savings bank instituted ]819. " Sum distributed for past year, L. 132, Numbers of contributors, 36 9s. lOd. Amount of stock, L. 290 Arerage monthly aUowance to each, 6s. Ordinary class of contributors, working- I^unatics, ... 4 clanes. Friendly society instituted, 1763 Libraries, • .2 Amount of capital, - - L. 250 Villages, ... 4 Number of members, - 140 Post-offices, - - - 2 Annual payments about - - 10s. Public-houses, . . S Nov. 1836. PARISH OF SPOTT. PRESBYTERY OF DUNBAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEBDDALK, REV. ROBERT BURNS THOMSON, MINISTER, f I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The name of this parish seems always to have been the same, with a slight difference in the orthography, being some- times written Spotty and sometimes Spot, It is a name which ap- pears not inappropriately to have been given to it, on account of its retired sheltered situation. Extent and Boundaries, — The parish is ten miles long, and five broad. It is intersected by an extensive tract of land, which till lately was in a state of common, and known by the name of Dun« bar common, and considered to belong to the parish of Dun- bar. It is now divided ; and whether the portions of it contiguous to other parishes are now to be regarded as forming part of these parishes, has not been determined. Were it not for the interpo- sition of this common, the parish of Spott would be of an irre- gular oblong figure. It is bounded on the north by Dunbar ; on the east by Dunbar and Innerwick ; on the south by Cranshaws ; and on the west by Stenton and Dunbar. Topographical Appearances. — The whole parish is an alterna- tion of hill and dale, the hills gradually increasing in height till we reach the highest ridge of this part of Lammermuir, 700 feet above the level of the sea. Doon hill, which is situated * This includes the occasional poor, and also four lunatics. ■f* This Account was furnished, while the parish was vacant, at the request of the Superintending Committee, by the Rev. John Thomson, Prestonkirk. SPOTT. 225 about a quarter of a mile south west'of the village, is upwards of 550 feet above the level of the sea. Hydrography. — There is nothing deserving the name of a rivef in the parish. The largest rivulet is Spott water, which runs through the valley in which the church and village are situated. It is joined, a little farther down, by a smaller brook, which runs close by the mansion-house of Spott, and it falls into the sea at Broxmouth, where it takes the name of Broxburn. There is an- other on the south side of the parish called Bothwell water, which falls into the Whitadder near Cranshaws. Springs are nume- rous on the banks of the rivulets. The town of Dunbar is sup- plied with water from St John's well, in the neighbourhood of the village. Kisthill well, near Bothwell, was once held in repute for the cure of scorbutic complaints. Geology. — The geology of the Lammermuir hills is too well known to require any lengthened description. They are com- posed almost entirely of grauwacke, distinctly stratified, through which trap rocks are to be seen protruded in various places. There is also a considerable extent of old red sandstone, filling up to a certain level most of the valleys, especially along the courses of the different rivulets. There occurs also a considerable portion of conglomerate, which is composed of fragments of all the rocks which are to be found in the district. The irregular range of hills which are to be seen along the northern base of Lammermuir, in this parish, and the neighbouring parish of Innerwick, where we first meet with cultivated ground, is chiefly composed of this con- glomerate, at least so far as the writer of this has been able to dis- cover. Doon hill seems also to be formed of this. On the south, it is cultivated to the summit, and on the north side, which is very pre- cipitous, much resembling some of the trap rock hills which fre- quently occur farther to the north and west in the county, it is covered entirely with wood. The ridge of rising ground, which is lower down on the opposite side of Spott Water, is composed of a red-coloured sandstone, which occurs throughout the whole of the ridge, stretching eastward to the sea coast at Broxmouth, and westward as far as the parish of Yester. , It is quarried in the pa- rishes of Dunbar, Spott, Stenton, Whittingham, and Bara. It varies a little in colour at different places. Whether it be the same formation, which occurs at these several places, the writer is not prepared to say : so far as he has seen, it is nowhere inter- rupted by trap rocks. 226 HADDINGTONSHIRE. Soil. — The soil is in general light and sandy, well adapted for the cultivation of turnips. But there is a considerable extent also of clay-soil, about a fourth perhaps of the parish. II. — Civil History. Historical Events. — The principal historical event connected with this parish, is the battle of Dunbar or Doonhill, fought be- tween Cromwell and General Leslie, on the 3d of September, in the year 1650. The latter had pitched his camp on the summit of Doonhill, where he might have held at defiance the army of the Commonwealth, had he not, contrary to his own better judg- ment, been forced by the indiscretion of the clergy, who accom- panied his army, ^^ to descend into the plain, with a view of at- tacking the English in their retreat. Cromwell, looking through a glass, saw the enemy's camp in motion, upon which he exclaim- ed, * The Lord hath delivered them into my hand,' and gave orders immediately for an attack. The Scots, though double in number to the English, were soon put to flight, and pursued with great slaughter."* The remains of the encampment are still dis- tinctly to be traced on the top of the hill, f Land-Owners. — The chief land-owners in the parish are : James Sprot, Esq, of Spott, patron of the parish ; Colonel Carfrae of Bowerhouses, (both of whom have residences in the parish.) ; the Duchess Dowager ofRoxburghe; the Earl of Haddington; Sir George Grant Suttie of Balgone ; and Mrs Hamilton Nisbet Ferguson of Biel. • Humc*s History. f A minister of Spott, named Jolin Kello, was executed in 1570, for the murder of his wife, Margaret Thomson. As tlic case is altogether a singular one, the cir- cumstances connected with it may be here briefly detailed. The murder was com- mitted on a Sabbath. Having before divine worship suspended his wife behind a door in the manf;c, he rc|)aired to the church where, in the course of the service, he was remarked to have delivered a more than usuully eloquent terrnon. The services being over, and the congregation dismissed, he went to the residence of a neighbour, stating to the lady of the house, that his wife (Mrs Kello) had for some time been rather in a depressed state of mind, and that he had called to request that she would kindly come over and juin^them in their family dinner, and endeavour to cheer her up. The request was at once complied with. On arriving at the manse, to the seeming amazement of both, the doors and windows of the manse were found barricad- ed. Afiersome little time, Mr Kello contrived to effect an entrance : A few moments afler, he came running to a window, exclaiming to the lady who accompanied him, " My wife, my wife, my beloved wife, is gone.*' Kello being a man who had credit for real piety, was never for a moment suspected of having perpetrated the murder. Suih crimes, however, seldom escape the Divine vengeance, even in this world. Some- time after, being confined by indisposition, he was visited by Mr Simpson, then minister of Dunbar, to whom he related that on the preceding night he had dreamt a distressing dream regarding his wife. ITiis Mr S, probably from some suspicions in his own mind, at once applied to the dreamer, saying in the words of the Prophet Nathan to David, «* Ifiou art the man." Conscience stricken, he made a full confes- sion of his crime, and was executed at Edinburgh shortly afterwards. SPOTT. 227 Parochial Registers. — The earliest date of the parochial regis- ters is, of births 1748, of marriages 1789. There is no register of deaths. The above appear to have been regularly kept Antiquities. — Besides the remains of General Leslie's camp on Doonhill, there are still visible the remains of another camp on a hill to the south-west of the tillage, supposed to be of Roman, or perhaps Danish origin. Part of an ancient spear was lately found near this camp, and is now in possession of the proprietor of Spott The parish and village of Spott was of old renowned as the habitation of witches. In the kirk-session records, dated 1698, we find the following statement : " The session, afler a long ex- amination of witnesses, refer the case of Marion Lillie, for impre- cations and witchcraft, to the presbytery, who refer her for trial to the civil magistrate ; the said Marion generally called the Riff- woody witch :'* and in October 1705, ** many witches burnt on the top of Spot Loan." It is generally believed, that the last witch who was executed in Scotland was burnt at Spott ; a stone com- memorative of the event, and marking the place of execution, is to be seen a little way to the east of the manse. Modem Buildings. — Of these, the principal are the mansion- houses of Spott and Bowerhouses. The former is delightfully situated at the foot of Doon hill, on the side of a ravine formed by the rivulet mentioned above, and commanding a beautiful and extensive view of the flat country about Dunbar — the Bass Rock, Isle of May, and south-east coast of Fife. The latter, though situated considerably lower down, near the northern boundary of the parish, commands the same extensive view. Spott House has undergone considerable repairs since it came into the possession of the present proprietor. The mansion house of Bowerhouses is entirely new, and not yet fit, indeed, for habitation. The parish church is very old, and cannot boast of any beauty, either in point of architecture or situation. Part of it is said to be Saxon. The parish school-room, and schoolmaster's house, have been lately re- built, and are both elegant and convenient There are two oat- meal mills in the parish. III. — Population. In 173j, tliu ainuunt of population was 727 1791, . . . 619 1801, 1811, 18-il, 1831, 502 561 582 612 In 1831. there were of males, 308, of females, 804. 228 HADDINGTONSHIRK. The population seems to have decreased materially between 1755 and 1801, probably owing to the farms having been redu- ced in number, and increased in size ; the number of farmers in 1730 having been 21 ; in 1791, 7 ; now in 1836, there are 6 resi- dent and 2 non-resident. The Yearly average for the last seven years, according to the session regtiten, is of births, . i3f of marriages, . 4 of deaths, II* The average nural>er uf persons under 15 years ol age is 223 betwixt 15 and 30 - 165 30 and 5<), - 127 50 and 70, - 77 upwards of 70 , - .20 Number of insane persons - 1 dc'.f and durnl), - 1 blind, . 1 The only heritor at present residing in the parish is the patron, James Sprot, Esq. of Spott. The whole number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, is 6. Popular Customs. — These are the same here as in other parts of East Lothian. The custom of going about as guyzards, on the evening before new-year's-day, once universal and not confined to the lower orders, is now gradually falling into disuse. Old Handsel Monday is strictly observed as a holiday, in every part of this county ; on that day, all the younger branches of a family as- semble together, and spend the day in the house of their parents, and all work is most scrupulously abstained from. Character of the People. — The farm-servants in East Lothian enjoy the comforts of society, according to their rank in life, to a greater degree than the working-classes in most other parts of the country ; and though the gains of the hinds or married plough- men have, from the low price of grain, in which their wages are paid, been for some years past considerably diminished, they are in general well contented with their condition, industrious, and devoted to the interest of their masters. Their ordinary food con- sists of wheat or barley bread, mostly baked by themselves, pork and salt herrings, potatoes and oatmeal porridge. Tea is very gene- rally used by the females; and in the Lammermuirs oatmeal cakes * There is no register of deaths, but the above is the number given in the former Statistical Account, which cannot be &r from the truth as to the present period, the number of births and marriages, and the amount of the whole population having been almost the same then as now. Births were I If, marriages 4|, whole' population 61!i 4 SPOTT. 229 are used, but they are wholly unknown among the peasantry in the low part of the county. The people, as is generally observed in aH agricultural districts, are remarkable for honest industry : and in so far as their external moral conduct is concerned, they are un- doubtedly superior to those of the manufacturing districts. Smug- gling has long been unknown on this coast Poaching in game is perhaps more or less practised. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of imperial acres which have been cultivated is, as nearly as could be ascertained, 2800 ; the num- ber which have never been cultivated, in the part of the parish to the north of Dunbar common, is 980. The extent of the farm of Bothwell, which lies to the south of Dunbar common, detached from the rest of the parish, and of which very little is fit for cul- tivation, the writer of this Account has been unable to ascertain* There may be about 100 acres of wood in the parish, mostly natural, on the steep sides of conglomerate hills ; except what is found surrounding the mansion-houses of Spott and Bowerhouses. Sent. — The valued rent of the parish, as stated in Sir J. Sin- clair's Statistical Account, is L. 4355, Ss. dd. Scotch. The mo- dern rent is exceedingly variable. The land in the low part of the parish lets as high as the average of good turnip land in other parts of East Lothian. The rent is paid according to the middle fiars prices of wheat, and varies every year. Some of the muir farms are rated so low as Ss. 4d per acre. Rate of Labour. — The rate of farm-work, when paid by the week, is from 9s. to lOs. in summer, and 8s. in winter. Married farm ser- vants, hired by the year, receive in grain, potatoes, cow's grass, and other perquisites, what has been computed, according to the low price of grain for the last two years, not to exceed 8s. per week, which is lower than the wages of an ordinary day-labourer —only it must be taken into consideration, that the pay of the latter ceases when he is unable to work from sickness, which is not the case with the former. Young unmarried men, when hired as ploughmen, re- ceive from L. 4 to L. 7, per half-year, with bed and board. Ma- sons' and carpenters' wages are generally 3s. per day in summer, and 2s. 3d. in winter. These rates of labour are not given as what are peculiar to this parish, but what are common in the district. Live-Stock. — Grazing being practised to a considerable extent by the principal farmers, a corresponding attention is paid to the breeds of cattle and sheep. All the improved breeds introduced 230 HADDINGTONSHIRE. into the county by John Rennie, Esq. of Phantassie and others, are grazed on the various farms ; and great numbers of sheep of the Leicester, Cheviot, and black-faced breeds, and of black and short-horned cattle are annually fattened on turnips. Husbandry, — It is needless to say, that the general character of husbandry pursued is of the most improved kind. This parish can boast of some farmers as much distinguished for zeal, and en- terprise, and success, in their profession, as any in East Lothian. Turnips are cultivated to a great extent^ and on some farms the land is grazed always for two, and occasionally for four or five years. There are various rotations followed, according to the va- rious soils. On what is considered a heavier soil, the ordinary rotation is, 1. turnips; 2. barley or wheat; 3. two years grass ; 4. oats. On the lightest soils, the following is the rotation : L tur- nips ; 2. barley, or wheat ; 3. grass for three years, and occasion- ally for four or five years ; 4. oats. On a strong clay soil the ro- tation is either, 1. fallow; 2. wheat; 3. one year grass; 4. oats; or, L fallow; 2. wheat; 3 grass; 4. oats; 5. beans and pease; 6. wheat. A considerable extent of waste meadow or muirland has been reclaimed, and brought under the plough, on the north base of the Lammermuirs. Bones, rape-dust, and other manures, not the produce of the farm-yard, are more or less used by every far- mer. The general duration of leases, and that which is found to be most advantageous, for both landlord and tenant, is nineteen years. The state of farm-buildings and enclosures, is in general good. It would be an improvement, were slates used instead of tiles. The roads, in this parish, with the exception of that between Spott village and Dimbar, are not in very good repair. Produce, — The annual average gross amount of raw produce, raised in the parish, is, as nearly as can be ascertained, as follows : Produce of fjrain of all kinds, L. \m^ turnips and potatoes, 4045 Yearly value of land in gravs, 2544 Total, I.. 17425 Manufactures, — The only thing of this sort carried on in the parish, is a manufactory of potato-starch, or flour, on the farm of Easter Broomhouse. It employs six women for six months in the year. The flour is principally used by manufacturers of cloth ; and sometimes by bakers and confectioners in large towns. V. — Parochial Economy. Market' towns. — The nearest market-town is Dunbar; but the SPOTT. 231 greater part of the grain raised in the parish is sold at Hadding- ton. Dunbar is the market from which the common necessaries of life are procured by the inhabitants of the north part of the pa- rish. Those in the west part of it may sometimes resort to the village of East Linton, in the parish of Prestonkirk, or to the vil- lage of Stenton; while those in the extreme south most frequent- ly resort to Dunse. The only village within the parish, is the vil- lage of Spott. . Means of Communication. — Dunbar is the post-town. The vil- lage, being situated about two miles from Dunbar, and several parts of the parish being still nearer it, the inhabitants enjoy abun- dant and easy means of communication with other parts of the country, by the stage coaches which pass and repass through that town, every lawful day. And travelling will be still more faciUtat- ed in this county, if the railway, which is now in contemplation between Dunbar and Edinburgh, be proceeded with. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is situated close by the village, and in so far as the population may be supposed to be denser there than in any other part of the parish, (though it does not contain above a fourth of the inhabitants of the whole pa- rish,) it may be said to be in as convenient a situation as could well have been chosen. It is at a great distance from the Lam- mermuir part of the parish, the farm of Bothwell being fully eight miles from it. But, with this exception, there is no place much farther off than four miles. The inhabitants of Bothwell are not numerous, and generally attend Divine ordhiances in the church at Cranshaws, which is much nearer to them. The church at Spott is very old. The precise date of the building of it is not known. It was repaired in 1790, and though in a quite sufficient state, can- not be said to be very comfortable. It is seated for 350. The whole of the sittings are free. The manse was built in 1806 ; and, though comparatively new, has already undergone repeated repairs. The extent of the glebe is 6 Scotch acres, worth about L. 3 per acre. The stipend is 16 chalders, and L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion ele- ments.* The number of male heads of families on the roll of com- municants is 71. The number of dissenting families is 16. Pub- lic worship is regularly and respectably attended. Education, — Besides the parochial, there has been for a long time a subscription school, which, however, is at present without a • The stipend in 1755 was L. 63, ns.2d. ; in 1759, it was augmented to L. 1 000 Scotb; in 1798 it was L. 165, Os. Sd Chaimcrb* Caledonia and former Stathtka I 232 HADDINGTONSHIRE. teacher. Inbothschools^all the ordinary branches are taiight. The parochial schoolmaster has th^ maximum salary or what is equivalent^ and all the legal accommodations. The expense of education is in the parochial school, 2s. 6d. per quarter for English reading ; 4s. for writing ; and 5s. for arithmetic It is not supposed that there is any one in the parish of a proper age who cannot read. All the young people learn to write ; nor, is it supposed that there are many, if there be any at all, of the older inhabitants, who cannot write. Of this a pleasing proof was afforded a few days ago, at the modera^ tion in a Call to the gentleman who has been recently presented to the vacant charge of this parish, on which occasion upwards of 50 persons, male heads of families, in the rank of ordinary plough- men, signed the call, in presence of the Presbytery, in a legible and respectable hand. Libraries, — The only library in the parish is a branch of the East Lothian Itinerating Libraries. Friendly Societies, — The only society of this nature is one to which there are several similar in the county, — the object of which is to assist a hind in replacing his cow, when she unfortu- nately dies. The members pay 8s. or lOs. annually. No member is permitted to kill his cow, even when rendered useless by accident- al injury. Poor aiid Parochial Funds, — The number of persons who re- ceive parochial aid, is from 12 to 16. The average allowance to each in ordinary circnmstances, such as widows, and aged infirm persons, is 6s. per month. The poors' funds are from weekly col- lections at the church door, which amount to the average sum of L. 6, 6s. per annum ; from an assessment which averages L. 50 per annum ; and from the interest of L. 200 Sterling, and 400 merks Scotch, or L. 222 Sterling, originally mortified by Lord Alexander Hay of Spott, for behoof of the poor of the parish, which at pre- sent amounts only to L. 5 per annum. Ale-houses, — There is but one ale-house now, and there was but one at the period of the last Statistical Account; nor does it appear that they have ever been more numerous. Fuel, — The fuel used in the lower district of the parish is coal, procured at Dunbar, to which place it is brought by sea from Eng- land and Fife, or at the coal-pits in the western part of the coun- ty. The former costs in general, from 7d. to Is. per cwt, but it varies in price ; the latter costs just now at the pit 5d. per cwt. INNERWICK. 233 Peat and dried turf constitute the principal fuel of the inhabitants of Lammermuir. December 1836. PARISH OF INNERWICK. PRESBTTERY OF DUNBAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. ADAM FORMAN, A. M. MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name Innerwick (otherwise Ennerwick,) seems to be compounded of two Saxon words, denoting an inner hamlet^ — a description which exactly corresponds to the actual locality of the village of Innerwick. That village is situated somewhat inland, and at the distance of about a mile and a half from Thomtonloch, a hamlet in the same parish. These two villages, as lying, the one fitrther from the sea, and the other nearer to it, may be accurately characterized by the comparatives, inner and outer. Innerwick too, may be called inner, or farther from the sea, in reference either to a hamlet, now very inconsiderable, at the Skateraw shore, in the same parish, or to the neighbouring village of East Bams, in the parish of Dunbar. There is no need, therefore, of resorting to that mode of explaining the name, according to which it denotes a place at the mouth of a river or stream, a description which is strictly applicable neither to the castle, nor to the village of In- nerwick, inasmuch as both are at some distance from the point where any stream that passes them joins the sea. To this deriva- tion it might also be objected, that it seems somewhat unnatural for a village or castle to be named from its specific relation to a stream so small ; and also, that the theory implies that the name Innerwick-^as being formed of the Celtic word Inver in combi- nation with the German word Wic — is heterogeneous in its com- position. Extent^ Boundaries. — This parish is about ten miles in length, and from two to three in breadth. It is bounded on the north- * This Report, with the exception of the articles Geology and Botauy, which are written by the Rev. Andrew Baird of Cockburnspath, and the ta5ie of raw produce* compiled by the Minister of the paiish, has been drawn up by the Rev. Alexander S. Patterson. 234 HADDINGTONSHIRE. east by the German Ocean ; on the east, by the parish of Oldham- stocks ; on the south, by those of Cranshaws and Longformacus ; and on the west and north-west, by those of Spott and Dunbar. Topogra])hical Appearances, — The coast, which is about 2 miles in length, is rocky, but somewhat tame, being characterized neither by those rugged precipices which occur in the adjoining parish of Dunbar, nor by those still more elevated crags which, farther to the east, in the parishes of Cockburnspath and Coldingham, form such noble barriers to the sea. From the shore the land slopes gradually upwards towards the Lammermoors. The part of the parish which lies between that hilly boundary and the sea pre- sents a scene of fertile and cultivated fields, but might be improv- ed, in respect of picturesque beauty, by an addition of wood skil- fully disposed over the now bare surface that intervenes between Thurston and Branxton, and stretches from the village of Inner- wick downwards to the shore. The very want of objects to inter- cept the eye, however, contributes to give a peculiarly free and lively character to the view which that village commands of the neighbouring sea, while of this lower district, considered as a whole, the otherwise monotonous character is somewhat diversified and relieved by the plantations of Thurston and Branxton. Along the line where the northern and more fertile district of the pa- rish passes into that hilly tract which constitutes its southern di- vision, a good deal of picturesque scenery occurs. There may be little in that locality to satisfy the taste for nature in her more graceful or majestic forms — but the lover of simple and seclud- ed beauty may there find wherewithal to be gratified, in the ra- vine with its wild and wooded sides, that stretch precipitously down to the rocky bed of its gurgling stream — the dell with its blooming banks — and the outstretching valley, from whose verdant slope the shepherd's hut looks peacefully down upon the travel- ler beneath. That part of the parish which, commencing at this hilly boundary, stretches southwards for about seven miles towards Berwickshire, is bleak and desolate — besprinkled, however, with cottages and farm-steadings ; affording both pasture for cattle, and, here and there, a soil capable of producing crops, and now under cultivation ; and occasionally enlivened by the verdure of the val- ley, and the freshness of the stream. Hydrography. — The inhabitants of this parish are copiously supplied with water, and much of what is used for domestic pur- poses is remarkable for its excellence. There is no large river INNERWICK. 235 in the parish, but the two following streams may be noticed : — the Monynut, which, rising at the centre of the parish, proceeds southwards along the hilly ridge called Monynut Edge, and at length diverging towards the east, proceeds in a south-east course to Berwickshire, where it joins the Whitadder at Abbey St Ba- than's ; and the Thornton water, which, rising almost at the same point as the Monynut, flows through the parish from south to north ^ and, after being applied to the use of a grinding-mill about half a mile from its mouth, enters the sea beside the village of Thorn- tonloch. Geology. — The geological structure of the parish of Innerwick appears on the whole to be simple, yet by no means destitute of interest ; especially on the sea coast, and in several situations in the higher part of the district. The parish may be divided general- ly into two great portions, the high and the low : the one being com- posed almost entirely of a coarse conglomerate, which appears to belong to the old red sandstone formation, the latter constituting a portion of the coal formation. The first mentioned rock, viz. the conglomerate, forms, as we would perhaps expect, the most elevated portions of the parish, presenting in almost all of them the same general appearances, being composed almost entirely of fragments of greywacke and greywacke slate coarsely cemented together, and constituting in many places large and elevated mountain-masses. Frequently standing out from this conglomerate, we meet with thick strata of a coarse sandstone, and frequently also the conglo- merate is traversed by projecting dikes or veins of trap. I'he part of the parish where these are most numerous, is in the neighbour- hood of the farms of Aikengalls and Elmscleuch, where the geological appearances present themselves in a shape so curious and fantastic, as to have given rise to the popular idea, that the fairies once upon a time had here their dwelling-place ; for the ap- pearances now alluded to are generally known in the neighbourhood by the name of the " Fairies Castles." The scenery may be thus described. The country is hilly, with many deep intersect- ing valleys, through each of which flows a stream scarcely per- ceptible in summer, but in winter forming a very considerable tor- rent. The beds of these little streams are wide, and formed of an immense and very deep deposit of channel, the debris of the moun- tain-tract through which they flow. In these valleys the old red sandstone, or rather the sandstone conglomerate before alluded to, is the prevailing rock. Jutting across these valleys, however, we oc- 236 HADDINGTONSHIRE. casionally meet with thin and sometimes pretty lofty masses of trap-rock (generally a sort of claystone porphyry ; ) and so simi- lar are the appearances to a regularly built wall with a quantity of coarsely cemented building on either side of it, that the term " castle" has been not unnaturally applied to them. This conglo- merate may be traced in many other parts of the parish, occur- ring in great abundance on the farm of Woodhall. We have not been able to discover with any exactness where the old red sand- stone ceases, and the rocks of the coal formation begin. It seems to be, however, a little north of the village of Innerwick, in a direc- tion from east to west — the change of formation being probably a very gradual one ; that is, the one set of rocks probably passes into the other, without any visible junction or marked difference of external characters. Atthelittle hamlet of Thornton, and at In- nerwick Castle, the rocks appear to be those of the. coal formation, and from this latter place, they seem to continue in a straight line westward to the several farms named Pinkerton, in the parish of Dunbar. The lower portion of the parish, viz. the district between the localities last mentioned, Thornton, Innerwick, &c, and the sea, being covered with a deep and fertile soil, we have scarcely any opportunity of observing in it either the characters of the fun- damental rocks, or the order and manner in which the different strata present themselves. These can be observed only on the sea- coast with anything like regularity or satisfaction, and our remain- ing observations, therefore, shall be restricted to a very general de- scription and examination of it The sea-coast of this parish com- mences a little eastward from Thorntonloch, where a little stream, which flows into the sea, separates it from the adjoining parish of Oldhamstocks. The shores of this latter parish arc a continua- tion of those of Cockburnspath* — the exact designation and era of the rocks composing which have been much disputed by geo- logists. Latterly, however, it seems to be agreed that they are to be considered a very old portion of the coal formation — an opinion which, as we travel westward to the shores of Innerwick, gradually receives stronger confirmation^ that is to say, while, in the parish of Cockburnspath, we have only sandstone, indor»» ted marl, and a coarse kind of slate clay or shale, we find, as we advance westward, the other and undoubted members of the coal formation gradually displaying themselves. These additional rocks are, limestone, clay, ironstone, bituminous shale, and, occasionally cropping out about high- water mark, thin seems of the coal itself, * Vide Statistical Account of that parish. INNERWICK. 237 the characterizing rock of the formation. The organic remains also, especially the vegetable impressions in the sandstone, are ex- actly those which occur in undoubted districts, in other parts of the country, composed of the coal formation. Such then, are the rocks at Thomtonloch — there, indeed, only partially visible, owing to the sands which cover them, but again emerging to view a little &rther westward, where, at a slight angle towards west north-west, they pass under the magnesian limestone, which here is not in any great abundance, and which in its turn is covered a few yards west •• ward by pretty thick beds of the encrinite, or mountain limestone of English geologists. At the point where this change takes place, the strata of the sandstone, shale, &c. are a good deal jumbled and confused, and the dip or inclination of the limestone strata becomes suddenly much greater. The magnesian limestone in the si- tuation now described has the usual characters of that rock in other situations ; but the first, or rather uppermost bed of the mountain limestone which rests upon it, presents a more interest- ing appearance, viz. a pretty thick stratum or reef, if we may so call it, of extinct corals. The particular species we have not been able exactly to a5H!ertain. The genus, however, is clearly Caryo- phyllea. The original forms are preserved with much freshness and accuracy, and afford a subject of inquiry and speculation deep- ly interesting and curious. Other organic remains and impressions might be noticed as occurring in this mountain limestone ; but it is time that these observations were brought to a close. Continu- ing, therefore, our observations still westward from the situation now described, the mountain limestone, in numerous and succes- sive strata, may be said to form the rest of the shore of this parish, being burned to a very considerable extent in the farm of Skateraw ; from which place a large portion of the agricultural district ad- joining both in Berwickshire and East Lothian, is supplied with it. Attempts have been made on the property of Mr Hay at East Bams, on the confines of this parish, to discover coal. '' The par- ties interested were sanguine in their expectations, but they have lately, and probably wisely, abandoned their exertions. Botany. — The botany of this parish may be considered as a good deal similar to that of Cockbumspath, which has been pretty fully described in the account of that parish. There are some strik- ing plants, and here and there rather an interesting botanic sta- tion. But we have observed no plants which are not enumerated in the account of the above parish. HADDINGTON. Q 238 HADDINGTONSHIRE. Trees, — Tlie planting of wood has been carried on to a consi- derable extent on the estate of Thurston, by the present proprie- tor, and also by his father. The grounds immediately around the mansion-house comprehend a variety of the hard woods. Some of the trees are upwards of a hundred years old. In the yestr 1783» a part, amounting to 160 imperial acres, of what formerly consti- tuted Innerwick common, ' was planted with fir by the late Mr Hunter of Thurston. The wood thus planted has made very dif- ferent degrees of progress, and some of it, so lately as last year (1835,) appeared, though still alive, not to have advanced at alL On the whole, however, this somewhat bold effort of planting has succeeded, and Thurston High Wood, as this piece of scenery is called, forms a fine variety among the neighbouring hills. On farms belonging to the estate of Thurston, a few small plantations have been formed. At a place, in the western part of the parish, called by the various names, or varieties of the same name, Wood' ley^ WoodyUy^ WaldaUey and Weatherlyy the banks of a ravine are clothed with what appears to be natural wood, the wild beauty of which breaks finely in on the surrounding scenery. Much of the wood is oak, and the whole covers seventy acres. At the op- posite extremity of the parish, the property of Branxton, which is planted to the extent of thirty-six acres, exhibits trees of consi- derable age and growth ; and wood, but in small quantity, forms one of the objects in that scene of simple beauty where the Castle of Innerwick mingles its grey ruins with the fresher elements of nature. The names Braidwoodj Woodhall^ fVoodley^ and perhaps also, Aihengcdlj Elmscleuch^ Birkiemuir^ and Monynutj afford rea- son for supposing that the places in the parish which they respec^ tively denote were formerly wooded, as, indeed, Woodley still is. IL — Civil History. Land-owners. — Under this head, a few details may be given re- specting the state of property in the parish in ancient times. From David I. Walter Stewart received the manor of Innerwick. The grant was confirmed in 1157 by Malcolm IV. ; and the superiority of the Stewarts over Innerwick continued till the time of Charles II. Ranulph de Kent, one of Walter's vassals, obtained from him a right to a merk of silver annually from his mill of Innerwick; and in the thirteenth century, a family called Glay — also, it is probable, attached to the Stewarts by the law of vassalage, — held part of the estate. In the time of David IL, Isabel, daughter of Roger de Glay, by her marriage with John de Hambleton, second INNERWICK. 239 son of Sir Walter Hambleton of that Ilk, introduced the inheri- tance into a family from whom, by this connection, sprang the Hamiltons of Innerwick, ancestors of the Earl of Haddington. In the thirteenth century, by a grant from Stewart, a person of the name of Lindsay became possessed of Thurston. Walter de Lind- say of Thurstoun was appointed a nominee by Robert Bruce, on occasion of the competition for the crown ; and next year, his manor was visited by Edward L — in the words of Rymer, " Capellamanerii domini Walter! de Lindsay, in quo tunc dictus dominus, rex hospita- batur."* At the accession of Robert IL, John de Lindsay gave the lands of Thurston to John Wallays; but whether the locality now called WaUace-miU derives its name from this family, from the re- nowned Sir William Wallace, or from neither of these sources, is uncertain. In the time of Regent Morton, Thurston belonged to a person called in Godscroft's History of the Houses of Angus and Douglas^ Craigiewallacey b, descendant, perhaps of the John Wal- lace now mentioned* In that work, too, the following story relative to Thurston is related : Greorge Hume of Spott, displeased with Alexander Hume of Manderston, to whose son he had promised to give a daughter of his own in marriage, disposed of her and also of his estate to a son of the Regent The lands of Thurston lay near to those of Spott The former, although the property of Craigiewallace, were possessed by George Hume of Wedderburn, whose predecessors have been supposed to have held them for eight or nine generations, the tenure being lease and good-will. Wed- derburn, giving possession to Craigiewallace of the lands of Dun- donald, himself retained those of Thurston. But the latter, hav- ing got the Dundonald property confirmed to him as his own by the King's agents on royal lands, sought to dispossess him. Wed- derburn, however, still kept possession. The Regent, hearing of the circumstances, and influenced by the vicinity of Thurston to Spott, offered to buy from Craigiewallace his right to the former. He also inquired of Wedderburn, however, what he would have for his right to the disputed estate. Wedderburn replied, that he desired nothing but his own, and that only that could satisfy him. The Regent intimated that he had bought the estate. ^^ No one but yourself" said Wedderburn, " would have done so, nor would you had you not been Regent" A decreet of removal was ob- tained against him, and he, on his part, set about building on the * At ThurBton, too, in July 1292, William de Douglas swore fealty to the Eng. lish King. 240 HADDINGTONSHIRE. lands, to show that he was not about to remove. At length mat* ters were arranged by the mediation of William Douglas of Loch- leven. Wedderburn got half of the lands, including the manor- house, with full right of property ; to the other half he resigned his claim. Without tracing the changes in the possession of Thur- ston and the other properties of the parish downwards to the pre- sent day, we may mention that th^ name of Wedderbuni, so pro- minent in this little scrap of local history, subsequently became connected with the baronies of Thornton and Innerwick. In 1 670 or 1671, Sir Peter Wedderburn of Gosford obtained a grant of the former, and about the same time he came into possession of the latter. Heritors. — The present heritors of the parish are, Mrs Ferguson of Dirleton and Biel ; Mr Hunter of Thurston ; Mr Balfour of Whittingham ; the Marquis of Tweeddale ; Sir George Suttie of Balgone ; Sir John Hall of Dunglass ; and Mr Allan of Bushelhill. Parochial Registers. — These commence with 1608, and consistof several volumes. They seem to have been generally kept with care^ and precision. Of ecclesiastical discipline and superintendence in the seventeenth and earlier part of the succeeding century, the re- cord is copious and minute. The following circumstances amidst a multitudeof others are recorded : — That in September 1659, a Sun- day-fast was appointed by the session, in reference tp the anticipat- ed destruction of the corn-crops by incessant rain, and an apparent want of piety among the people; that in May 1661, a day of thanksgiving was appointed for the King's return, the minister, how- ever, cautioning the congregation against observing it as a sacred festival or anniversary holyday, and, in that respect, on a level with the Sabbath ; that in October 1662, the minister, not conforming to Episcopacy, took leave of his people, the two parting from each other (as the record expresses it,) like mother and child, when the latter is snatched from her breast ; and that in the seventeenth century, church collections were made at Innerwick for a harbour at North Berwick, bridges at Linton and Whitekirk, and persons taken prisoners by the Turks. Antiquities. — Innerwick Castle, of which there are still consi- derable remains, was probably built in feudal times, as a security to the Scottish border. It was an inheritance of the Stewarts who, for so long a period, held a superiority over the neighbouring lands, but at length became a baronial stronghold of the Hamil- tons of Innerwick. In 1403, in which year the Earl of Dunbar 4 IxVNEUWICK. 241 led the Northumbrians as far as Innerwick, the castle, in which Chalmers conjectures that an English garrison was left on the occasion, was taken and laid prostrate by the Regent Albany. Along with Thornton Castle, a house of Lord Home's, which stood on the opposite bank of a little glen, tnnerwick Castle was at- tacked ty Protector Somerset, when he invaded Scotland. * Of these two fortresses, the former has almost entirely disappeared ; of the latter there are still some remains. They stand at the distance of about half a mile from the village of Innerwick, a little to the north of the road between it and Oldhamstocks. " Decay's effacing fingers," however, have been at work on the ve- nerable pile, and, in the course of the last few years, its ruins have become still more ruinous. A view of Innerwick Castle is given in Grose's Antiquities. It has also ajSbrded a subject to the pen- cil of Mr Thomson of Duddingston. On Blackcastle-hiU, the name of which indicates it to have been the site of a structure that has now passed away, there are some remains of an old encampment. * Of this attack the followuig account is given bv Patten, who accurately describes the two fortalices as *^ set both on a craggy founJacion, and devided a stone's cast asunder by a depe gut, wherein ran a HtUe ryver :** — ** Thornton lielonged to the Lord Hume, and was kepte then by one Tom Trotter ; whereunto my Lurde*s grace over night for summons, sente Somerset, his heraulde, towards whome I II I. or V. of this capitaynes prikkers, with thdr gaddes ready eharged, did right hastely direct their course ; but Trotter both honestly defended the heraulde, and sharply rebuked hvs men, and said, for the summons he would come speake with my lorde*s grace himself,— notwithstanding he came not, but straight lockt up sixteen poor soules, like the souldiers of Dunglas fast wiUjin the house, toke the keys with him, and com- manding them they should defend the house, and tarry within (as they coulde not get out) till his returne, whiche should be on the morrow, with much niunicion and rdief, he with his prikkers prikt quite his ways. Anderwyke perteined to the Lorde of Haniblcdon, and wos kept by hys sonne and heyre, (whom of custume they call the master of Hambledon ) and an V 1 1 1, more with hym, gentlemen for the moste part as we harde say. My Lorde 's grace at his commiug nye, sent unto both these piles, whiche upon sununons refusing to surrender, were straight assayled, Thorn- ton by batrie of I II I. of our great peces of ordiiuiunce, and certain of Syr Peter Mew- tus hakbutters to watch the loopholes and wynduws on all sydes, and Anderwyke by a sorte of the same hakbutters alor.e, who soo well besturd them, yt whear these kepers had ramed up their outer dores, cloyd and stopt up their stayres within, and kept themselfes aloft for defence of their house, above the battilmentes, the h:;kbutters gat in and fyred them undemeth ; whereby beying greatly trobled with smoke and smoother, and brought in desperation of defence, thev called pitifully over their walls to my Lorde*s grace for mercy, who uotwithstandiiige their great obstinacie, and the xsample other of ye enemies mought have had by their punishment, of his noble generositie, and by these wordes mMiing half xcuse for them, Men may some tyme do yt hastely in a gere, whereof afterwards they mai soon repent them, did take them to grace, and thearfore sent one straight to them. But ere the messenger came, the hakbutters had gooten up to them, and killed VIII. of them aloft ; one lept over the walles, and running more than a furlong, after was slain without in a water.'* Similar were the proceedinos at Uie neighbouring Castle of Thornton. Of that for* talicea great part was demolished on the occasion. "* The rest," adds Patten, *•* stood aU to be shaken with rifies and chykkes.*' Of that stronghold, accordingly, the very ruins have now almost utterly disappeared. 242 HADDINGTONSHIRE. A little to the south of Innerwick Castle, on the right of the Old- hamstocks road, slight remains are still visible of a structure, re- moved some years ago, called Edinkens Bridge — a name which has been traced, by conjecture or tradition, to Edwin, King of Northumbria. In a mortification, issued at the beginning of the eighteenth century, by William Nisbet of Dirleton, as recorded in the kirk-session books, this edifice is called the Bridge of Edincain — a name which almost exactly coincides with the present one of Edinkens Bridge. In the course of the suc- ceeding century, however, it is called, in the parochial registers. King Edward's Bridge ; and in the former Statistical Report of the parish, it bears the name of Edirken*Sy which is there traced to that, not of Edtcin^ but of Edward, Near this bridge there stood, some years ago, four large stones, such as might be sup- posed to indicate the burial-place of some distinguished person. These were removed a considerable time ago ; but last year ( 1835) the place where they stood was identified, and a subterranean exa- mination instituted at the spot Besides a few small stones, which were found at the depth of four feet — not enclosed, however, in any kind of coffin — a large urn was discovered, surrounded with black ashes, and containing a quantity of bones very white, and apparently burned. Among these was a small under-jaw, as if of a female, or young person. The urn, when found, was inverted, and its situation was quite shallow. From these details it might be rash to deduce any decided historical results. But if some dis- tinguished individual named^ Edwin was here interred, it is proba- ble either that the conjecture of a gentleman who took an active part in the investigation is true, that the person in question was a Northumbrian prince, who was slain in the eleventh century, when flying from William the Conqueror to the residence of Malcolm IV,, (and not the King from whom the city of Edinburgh de- rives its name, who is recorded to have died at an entirely different place,) or that the name of Edinkens originated in the indivi- dual from whom Edinshold, on the hill of Cockbumlaw, among the neighbouring Lammermoors, is called — supposing that indivi- dual, (who is represented with something of the character of a freebooter,) to have been identical with neither of the Northum- brian princes already mentioned. Chalmers speaks of two beautiful tumuU, apparently sepulchres, as existing in the parish of Innerwick ; but what mounds he means, by the description, is uncertain. The failure to discover to what INNERWICK. 243 the learaed author refers, may be accounted for by the effect of agriculture in levelling the soiL Several stone coffins have been met with in the parish. Two of these, inclosing a ring and part of a sword, were found, some years ago, on the £arm of Skateraw. There has been preserved a pretty little vase, found on another of the &rms. Some of the s^Hilchral relics, which have been foundinsuch abundance in the parish of Innerwick are probably the remains of bloody warfare. A 6eld near the village of Innerwick, known by the name of the CorsikiU Parky is pointed out as the scene of an encounter between Cospatrick and Sir William Wallace.* There stood, at one time, on the Skateraw shore a chapel, de^ dicated to St Dennys. Remains of such an edifice were visible some years ago, but have now yielded to the sea. Bones, found in the vicinity of the spot, give reason for supposing that a bury- ing-ground was connected with the chapel. An old and time-worn parish church was taken down about fifty years ago. IIL — Population. The records of baptism seem to indicate that, in the 17th and earlier part of the 18th century, the parish of Innerwick was some~ what more populous than it is at present. The following is a list of the population, at several successive periods, as given in the Government census, and other authoritative documents : — Population in 1765^ 041 1791, 960 1801 846 1821, 934 1831, . 987 At present the population may be reckoned somewhat fewer than the last of these numbers. * In Henry the Minstrers poem of WaUacCt there occurs the following passage : *< Thus raid thai furth, and wuld na langer duell Be est to Dunbar, qubar men him tald on cass How erll Patrick was warvt off Wallace : Ncr Ennerwick chesyt a reild at waill. With nyne hundreth off likly men to waill. Four hundreth was with Wallace in the rycht, And sone onon approchit to thair sicht. Gret fiiwte thar was of gude trety betweyn. To mak concord, and that full sone was seyn. Without saterss off actioun in that tid, On other part to gydder fdst thai rid. The stour was Strang, and wonder pendous, Contenyt lang with dedes chivalrous ; Mony thar deit off cruell Soottis blud. Off this trety the mater is nocht gud ; Tharfor I uss to tell the destructioune ; Pete it was, and all off a natioune. Bot erll Patrick tlie ieild left at the last, Rjroht few with him : to Cobumspeth thei past." 244 HADDINGTONSHIRE. The parishioners of Innerwick are chiefly engaged in agricul- ture. They, in general, possess a considerable share of the com* forts and conveniences of life. They are, on the whole, industrious in their habits, and decent in their outward conduct. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The lower part of the parish, consisting of be- tween 3000 and 4000 imperial acres, is laid out in com, pasture, and wood ; and although in the hill-lands, which consist of about two-thirds of the parish, stock-farming is chiefly practised, even there several hundred acres are under cultivation. The following may be taken as a pretty accurate view of the distribution of the land :— Number of Scots acres in the parish, . 9300 under tillage, • 4000 in natural pasture, £000 under wood, 800 There are fifteen farms in the parish, which difier widely in ex- tent and value. Rent of Land, — Towards the end of the eighteenth century, the rental of this parish was L. 4000. It rose to L. 15,000, but is now reduced to about L. 9500. The rent of land varies greatly, according to its quality. Here, as elsewhere, farms have now be- gun to be let by the fiars. Rate of Wages. — The rate of wages for day-labourers is, for men, Is. 6d., for women, lOd., a-day. The provision afford- ed to hinds consists of barley, oats, peas, cow's grass, potatoes, coals, and lint-money, and amounts in value to about L. 25 per annum. Eighteen or twenty days' shearing serves as their house rent. Live Stock. — About 5000 sheep are kept on the hill-district of the parish. These are Cheviots, black-faced, and a breed be- tween the two. Those pastured in the lower district are chiefly of the Leicester breed; and, after being bought in in autumn, are kept for a year, and then sold off. Some, however, are fed for a shorter time, at the charge of so niuch per head. Few black- cattle are now bred in the parish. Some, however, are bought in and fattened on turnips, and then sold off. Husbandrg. — The arable soil of this parish is partly light and partly a heavy clay. To the latter, a six-shift rotation of crops is applied; to the former, a five-shift course. The six-shif); is the following: — 1. fallow, with manure — in some cases, turnip; 2. INNERWICK. 245 wheat; 3. grass; next, oats; then, beans; and lastly, wheat The five-shift is as follows: — 1. turnip; 2. spring-wheat, or barley; 3. grass, for two successive years; and, -finally, oats. Turnips are pretty extensively grown. These are consumed partly in the fields by sheep, and partly in the farm-yard by larger cattle. Messrs J. T. and W. Lee, late tenants in this parish, were three of the first farmers in the county by whom turnips were grown to any considerable extent. Drilling is generally practised, nor is it confined to wheat and turnip crops. Farms adjoining the sea have the benefit of sea-ware, which is to be found on the shore in great abundance. Lime and bone-dust are also used in this parish as manure. Wheat is sown from October to March ; bar- ley from March to May ; oats in March ; and turnip at the end of May. Thirlage is in use to some extent. Most of the farm-houses in the lower part of the parish are excellent. Stone fences, as well as hedges, are usual. The for- mer are preferred by the tenant, and are increasing. There is a steam thrashing-mill on the farm of Thurston ; on that of Craw- hill considerable labour and expense were devoted, some years ago, to the erection of a water-mill. The stream from which the water is supplied, flows, through a little valley, considerably below the level of the steading. A mine was forced through the solid rock to the extent of thirty-six yards, and a pit sunk at the end of it to the depth of forty feet In this the wheel was placed. A dam- head was erected among the rocks of the valley. The expense incurred was about L. 800. There is one flour and meal mill in the parish. The duration of farm leases is generally either nineteen or twen- ty-one years. Quarries. — There are indications of coal having been formerly wrought in this parish, but that branch of labour is not now in use. At the Skateraw shore limestone is regularly wrought and burned. Much of the stone, however, that might otherwise be turned to good account is rendered difficult to work by the depth of the in- cumbent soil. The lime prepared here is of excellent quality. In the time of war, limestone in considerable quantity was sent from Skateraw to the Devon iron-works. Now, however, it is almost always burned before the material is dispatched. A large portion of the lime goes to Berwickshire. Freestone is wrought in the pa- rish, when needed for local purposes. Fishery. — Two boats belonging to this parish are employed in L.5&9i 7800 24ao IdOO 5070 840 4452 1000 150 1504 3 4 246 HADDINOTON8HIRB. the adjoining sea in catching haddock, mackerel, lobsters, and other fish. Raw Produce* — 6*20 acres wheat, 4 quarters per acre, 2480 quarters at L. 2, 8s. per quarter, . • 1000 oats, G^ quarters per acre, 6500 quarters at 24s. per quarter. 270 barley, G quarters per acre, 1620 quarters at dOs. per quarter, 200 pease and beans, 4 quarters per acre, 800 quarters at d4s. per quarter, • 780 turnip, at L. 6, 10s. per acre, 60 potatoes, 4i) bolls per acre, 2400 bolls, at 7s per boll, 1 060 sown grass at L. 4, 4s. per acre, 5004 natural pasture, at 4s. per acre, Wood, Lime, 19,000 bolls annually, at Is. 7d. per boll, L. 80,558 8 4 V. — Parochial Economy. Markets. — The market-towns resorted to are chiefly Dunbar, Haddington, and Dunse. From the village of Innerwick, the 6rst of those is four miles distant ; the others are more thai| thrice as far. Filiates, — The villages of the parish are Innerwick and Thom- tonloch. The former is situated at the distance of about a mile from the London road. It lies at the foot of a steep but cultivate ed hill. It is tolerably neat and clean, but in its appearance some- what straggling and irregular. Tliorntonloch lies op the coast, almost close to the London road. It is occupied to a considerable extent, though not exclusively, by the servants of the adjoining farm. Many of its cottages are very bad. Means of Communication, — About two miles of the great road between Edinburgh and London are in this parish. The Mail, the Union, and a Berwick coach, which all run daily on that road, afford expeditious and convenient means of travelling. The other roads in the lower district of the parish are kept in good repair, and afford great facilities for the conveyance of produce to market. There is no post-office in the parish, but by letter-carriers and other means of communication a tolerably regular conveyance of letters is secured from the post-town of Dunbar. A carrier pas* ses through the parish, by the London road, onoe a week on his way to Edinburgh, and once a week on his return. A small har- bour at the Skateraw shore, erected some years ago by the late Messrs Brodio of Thomtonloch, and Lee of Skateraw, is used for the exportation of lime, and the importation of coal. Ecclesiastical State, — Walter Stewart, to whom, as has been al« ready stated, was granted by David I. the manor of Innerwick, INNERWICK. 247 presented the church, with certain pertinents, to the monks of Pais- ley. This grant was confirmed by Malcolm IV. and, in the twelfth century, the Episcopal authority of St Andrews declared in fa- vour of the monks holding possession of the church, and assigned to the vicar a garden near the burying-grouud, and some other land. The monks retained the church of Innerwick until the Re- formation. In 1670, Sir Peter Wedderburn obtained a grant of the rectory and vicarage tithes. The present patron is Mrs Fer- guson of Dirleton. The church, which was built in 1784, is a very plain structure. It stands on an elevation in the village of Innerwick, and is con- veniently situated for the lower part of the parish ; but most of the families who reside in the hill-district are at a distance of from five to eight miles from their parish-church. To the greater part of these, however, the church of Cranshaws, or that of Abbey St Ba- than's, is much nearer. In the church of Innerwick, as in those of other country parishes, the seats are distributed among the farms. A few sittings, however, have been let at a small specified sum. The attendance, as compared with that of many parishes, is good, but even in this respect there is room for improvement* By far the greater number of families in the parish belong to the Esta- blished Church. About 120 persons, however, includmg children, are Dissenters, chiefly of the United Secession. Five elders are associated with the minister in the care of the parish. In an ancient Taxatio the church of Innerwick is valued so low as thirty merks. The present stipend is 16 chalders, half barley, and half oats ; exclusive of L. 10 for communion elements. The last augmentation occurred about twelve years ago. The teinds are not by any means exhausted. The manse was enlarg- ed and repaired a few years ago, and is now a handsome and com* modious house. The glebe consists of five acres of arable land, and is let at L. 3 per acre. There is no grass glebe. Education. — There are two week-day schools in the parish, both of which are in the village of Innerwick, viz. the parish school, and a private school for girls under the charge of a fe- male teacher. The attendance at these varies according to the season of the year. In winter there are, at the two together, about 120 scholars. Some children belonging to the parish go elsewhere to school. The fees in both schools are moderate. There is a pervading disposition among parents to give their chil- dren a common education, and most of them are in circumstances 248 IIADDINGTOKSHIRE. which enable them to do so. Destitute children are kept at school by the heritors aud kirk-session. There are two Sabbath schools in the parish, which are taught, the one by the minister, and the other by two of the elders. A mortification by Hector Foord of Branxton provides for six college bursaries — a preference to be given, failing his own relations and persons of his own name, to in- dividuals born or educated in the parishes of Innerwick or Dunbar. Libraries. — A parish library has existed here for several years. There are also two small itinerating libraries, — the one stationed at Innerwick, the other at Thomtonloch. Those who avail them- selves of these means of improvement are fewer than might be wished. Poor. — At present 18 persons derive regular assistance from the poor funds. Occasional aid is also granted. Tliese sup- plies are given from the interest of L. 1000 laid out on security, together with the church collections. As to the source from which the principal sum was obtained there is some uncertainty. It iq>- pears, however, from the session books, that, according to an Act of the reign of James VII., the stipend of crops 1698 and 1699 was mortified by William Nisbet of Dirleton for the repair of the bridge of Edencain, and the assistance of the poor of Innerwick — the annualrent of the balance, laid out on security, to be devoted to the latter object. Fuel — Peat and coal are both used as fuel. Coals are brought from Fife and Bo-ness to the harbour of Skateraw. A few months ago a ton cost about 12s. There has lately been a considerable advance of price. Alehouses. — Of these there are 2 in this parish ; the one in the village of Innerwick — the other at Thorntonloch bridge, on the London road. 1836. PARISH OF ABERLADY. PRESBYTERY OP HADDINGTON, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWBEDDALE. THE REV. JOHN SMITH, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. ' Name. — It can hardly be doubted, that the parish of Aberlady takes its name from the village. The word, however, is of un- certain etymology. From the well understood meaning of the prefix Aber^ it has been conjectured that the stream now called the Peffer was in ancient times styled the Leddie^ and that Aber- lady is the village which stands at the mouth of the Leddie or Peffer, or its influx into the Frith of Forth. Such at all events is its situation. Extent and Boundaries. — The parish is about 3 miles long by about 2^ broad, with an irregular boundary-line. It contains an area of between 6 and 7 square miles, or about 4000 imperial acres, almost the whole of which are arable, and have been cultivated. It is bounded on the north and north-west by the sea ; on the north-east by the parish of Dirleton ; on the south and south-east by that of Haddington ; and on the south-west by that of Glads- muir. Topoffraphical Appearances^ — The greater portion of the parish is flat, rising very slowly from the level of the sea, and no part of it reaches any considerable elevation. But though without variety of hill and dale, it has a pleasing aspect, and the views from almost every part of it towards the north and west are singularly beautiful. ' It is not easy, indeed, to imagine a prospect more splendid and varied than that which comprehends the Frith of Forth in its widest expansion, and ever enlivened with sails, the Pentland hills, Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh with its spires, monuments and castle, Inchkeith, the Lomond hills, and the peaks of the Gram- pian mountains towering in the distance. These and many other interesting objects, all happily combined, present a picture to the eye universally and justly admired. Hydrography, — There is very little running water within the 250 HADDINGTONSHIRE. parish, and the inhabitants are supplied chiefly from wells. The supply thence derived, however, is abundant, and the quality wholesome. A brook, or bum^ indeed, rises in the higher grounds, and running in a north-west direction, nearly through the centre of the parish, falls into Gosford bay, but it is at no time consider- able, and is dry, or nearly so, every summer. Another small stream forms the south-west boundary of the parish, and pursues a similar course, but its channel is also empty during^the summer's drought. The principal stream, though still very inconsiderable, connected with the parish is the Pcfier, which after a sluggish course of about five miles over a bed of clay, enters Aberlady bay from the east, at Luffness point. It is distinguishable, however, at low water about a mile further west, and near this point is the harbour or rather anchorage ground of Aberlady. At spring-tides vessels of sixty or seventy tons burden can ascend the bed of the Peffer thus far, and lie tolerably secure ; but they cannot easily get out to sea again when the wind is westerly. This harbour or anchor- age ground is, in virtue of a royal grant, confirmed by the Scottish Parliament in 1633, the Port of Haddington ; but the grant is unproductive, as the trade is trifling. Throughout the whole of )his parish, the coast is low, and the tide retires fix>m it in some points to a great distance. Still, however, the water seems to be gaining, though very slowly, on the land, partly, perhaps, firom the operation of general causes, and partly from the habit of quarrying and carting away the natural bulwarks against the encroachments of the sea. Geology and Mineralogy. — It is not supposed that, with the ex- ception of some rocks a little to the west of the anchorage-ground already spoken of, any part of this parish has attracted much at- tention from the geological inquirer, nor is it believed that it will yield on the whole any considerable harvest to the cultivators of that important and interesting science. Everywhere along the shore, there are manifest proofs that the sea stood at a higher level at some remote era tlian it does now, or has done within the period of historical record ; and it is not to be questioned that much of that which is now well cultivated and productive land was once swampy and worthless. The soil of the parish is of various quality. Near the sea it is light and sandy; the sand having been' evi- dently blown from the beach, and in some places covering, to the depth of a foot or more, land bearing indubitable traces of former cultivation. A little further inland, there is a considerable breadth 4 ABBRLADY. 251 of clay soil, not naturally fertile ; and it is only when the land begins to rise with a gentle elevation to the south that the soil is generally good. Here, however, it is of excellent quaUty ; and, being well suited to the production of every kind of crop, amply repays the labour of the farmer. There is neither freestone nor limestone quarry in the parish. Lime rock, however, exists in abundance, but as lime may be had more conveniently in the immediate neigh- bourhood, it is not burnt. It is not doubted that some seams of coal, in connection with the great coal-field of Mid- Lothian, run through the parish, but no attempt has ever been made to work them, nor is it believed that any such attempt could be made with advantage. A good deal of whinstone is quarried along the shore for the use of the roads in the neighbourhood, and it is reckoned very well suited to the purpose. Botany. — It is not believed that any plants deserving the ap- pellation of rare are now to be found in the parish. Those which are not frequently observed in other districts are still^common in the neighbourhood. There are no woods of natural growth in the parish ; and though extensive plantations have been made within the last fifty years, for ornament and shelter, there is in this re- spect still room for improvement Near the sea, trees seldom grow luxuriantly, partly, it is probable, from the sandy nature of the soil in which they have been planted, partly from the force of the winds, to which they are in a peculiar degree exposed, and partly from the saline particles with which these winds are impreg- nated. A very liHle way inland, however, trees of e^ery species commonly planted, seem to thrive at least moderately well, and there are many trees and shrubs in the parish of much luxuriance and beauty. Zoology. — There are no wild animals peculiar to the parish, and it is not remarkable for <^ breeding any species of cattle of distin- guished quality, size, or value." It abounds in hares, pheasants, and partridges ; and rabbits and wood-pigeons are so numerous as to be in no small degree injurious. Lapwings and curlews visit us in considerable numbers in autumn ; and during the winter months, the bay is frequented by large flocks of wild geese, by dif- ferent sorts of plovers, and by many varieties of the duck tribe. It abounds also in cockles, mussels, and in some of the smaller sorts of shell-fish ; but, in an economical point of view, they are of little value, and mussels, at least, are much less plentiful than formerly. Climate. — The climate of this parish is dry and salubrious. The 252 HADDINGTONSHIRE. winters are singularly mild, and, in sheltered situations, nrnny of the tenderer shrubs succeed remarkably well. The east wind in spring is keen and piercing, but less so than in some of the neighbouring pa- rishes ; the weather in autumn is generally clear and bracing ; and, on the whole, the climate may be considered as more than com- monly conducive to health and enjoyment Ague, which was for- merly prevalent, is now unknown ; and the inhabitants seem to be altogether exempted from peculiar disease. II. — Civil History. Aberlady does not appear to have been ever the scene of any very memorable event, nor is it famous in history as the birth-place^ or place of residence, of any very eminent man* After passing under different arrangements, through the hands of various fami- lies, more or less distinguished, it is now divided into three estates, the proprietors of which, in the order of their valued rent, are, Lord Elibank ; th3 Earl of Wemyss and March ; and the Ho- nourable Sir Alexander Hope. They have all seats in the parish ; but the two last named only reside in them. Ballencrieffy the seat of Lord Elibank, occupies a fine and com- manding situation, is surrounded by some stately trees, and enjoys a most extensive prospect. — Gosfordf the seat of the Earl of Wemyss and March, has had vast sums expended on it, since it came into the possession of that noble and very ancient family, and from the amenity of the situation, and beauty of the grounds, may justly be considered as a very pleasing residence. The house is distin- guished amongst the mansions of the Scottish nobility, by a very large collection of pictures ; most of them by the ancient masters, and many of them of the highest merit. — Luffness^ the seat of Sir Alexander Hope, has been much improved and adorned, by the taste of the present proprietor, and has an air of antiquity about it, from which it derives no small degree of interest Antiquities, — There are few remains of antiquity in the parish. The fortalice of KiUpindy^ which stood between the village and the shore, and which at the date of the former Statistical Account, was in no very ruinous state, has been swept entirely away. It was built in 1585, by Patrick Douglas, grandson of Sir Archibald Douglas of Kilspindy, a man of no small note in his time. He was Treasurer of Scotland in the minority of James V., and much con- fided in by his nephew, the Earl of Angus, substantially Regent of the kingdom. Subsequently, however, he shared in the forfeiture of the '* Douglases," and died in exile. — Redhoiise^ or Redhouse Castle stands on the margin of the small stream which separates ABEULADV. 253 the parish from Gladsmuir, and, though now utterly in ruins, seems to have been a mansion of considerable extent The date of its erection is not exactly known, but it was probably built towards the close of the sixteenth century, or perhaps at a still earlier period. The situation is imposing ; and it has attached to it an extensive garden with an excellent exposure, and well stocked with fruit trees, still productive. The lands of Redhouse were held in the fifteenth century by the ^^ Laings," one of which family was Trea^ surer of Scotland in 1465, Bishop of Glasgow in 1473, and High Chancellor in 1483. From this family, the estate came by mar- riage into the hands of Sir Andrew Hamilton, brother of the first Earl of Haddington, and with that gentleman's heirs, it con- tinued till the last of them lost both lands and life, for having en- gaged in the Rebellion of 1745. The house of Luffness is part- ly of very ancient date. It stands within a small fortification, con- structed by the ("rench General ^^ De Thermes," in 1549, in order to straiten the English garrison in Haddington, by preventing it from receiving supplies by sea ; and the ditch and rampart are still most distinctly visible. It appears to have answered its intended purpose, as the garrison in question, being reduced togreat extre- mity for want of provisions, was soon after withdrawn. In 1551, this fort was ordered to be destroyed ; but the house was allowed to remain as private property. A few hundred yards west of Luff- ness may be observed the remains of a small religious edifice, said to have been a convent of Carmelites or White Friars, to whom David II. granted a charter of confirmation as a mark of his fa- vour ; and near it, there are evident traces of fish-ponds, which a little trouble would restore. An hospital is said to have been founded at Ballencriefi*, in the twelfth century, and dedicated to St Cuthbert ; and there was another at Gosford Spitalj in con- nection with the collegiate church of Dunglas, but at neither place are there now any remains of ancient buildings. Along the coast, westward towards Longniddry, stone coffins and human bones have been very frequently dug up, and there seems to be little doubt, that, at some very remote period, this has been the scene of fierce and bloody contention. Parochial Reguiers. — The records of this parish go hack twc hundred years, but, as happens very commonly throughout Scot- land, they do not appear to have been at any time very exactly kept ; nor would it be tale to build on them any conclusions in ftatistic science. HADDINaTON. R 154 HADDINGTONSHIRE. IIL — Population. In l75o, the population is said to have amounted to 739 1791, ... 800 1801, . .675 181), .912 1821, . loas 1831, .973 Number of families in the parish, . . . 231 chiefly employed in agriculture, . . 112 in trades, manufacture, or handicraft, 8B • From the above statement, it appears that the population of the parish has not been subject for a long period to any remarkable fluctuations; and that it is considerably larger now than it was eighty years ago. It is doubted, however, whether the increase stated in the returns be not rather seeming than real, and whether the apparent addition to the population in this and in many other rural parishes be not mainly owing to the greater accuracy with which the late enumerations have been made. This accuracy, it is natural to suppose, has gone on increasing ; an4 it is conceived that, from negligence and other causes, the early accounts of the population of many parishes are much beneath the real amount. At one period, it is well known, the people had in general no small dislike to be numbered; at another, from the operation of the militia laws, they thought they had an interest in concealing the number of their families ; and it is only of late years that there are few or no hinderances in the way of a correct enumeration. It is not, accordingly, considered as at all certain that the population of this parish is greater now than it was a century ago. The village of Aberlady has doubtless increased in size and in the number of its inhabitants, but in the country part of the parish the popula- tion has as certainly diminished ; and this state of matters, it is believed, is very general throughout Scotland. A great increase there is, without question, on the whole ; but it has taken place chiefly, if not entirely, in the villages and towns. Character and Condition of the People* — The character of the people in this, as in the neighbouring parishes, is, on the whole, estimable. Intemperance is not frequent amongst them. Those who have children are exceedingly anxious to have them properly educated ; they are civil in their manners, industrious in their ha- bits, and by no means inattentive, in general, to religious observ- ances. In the midst, ofien, of difficulties and hardships, they are not discontented with their lot ; and it is matter of no small praise to them, that, with very narrow means, there is so much decency in their apparel, and seeming comfort in their dwellings. Intelligence ABERLADV. 255 is more generally diffused amongst them than the inhabitants of towns are willing to imagine ; and there seems to be nu good ground for believing, that they have fitllen in any degree from the respectability of their fathers. Wages in this parish and district have been for several years past on a very low scale, — partly from the influx of Irish labourers in summer and harvest, — and partly from the depressed condition of agricultural affairs ; and it is much to be wished, that labour ere long may receive a more abundant reward. The houses, too, allotted to the farm-servants, are fre- quently not so good as might be reasonably expected ; and hither- to there has in this respect beeti little of that improvement which unquestionably, on the whole, characterizes the present age. There is at this date some tendency towards a better state of things ; and ground is given to hope, that the cottages on every fiirm will, at no very distant period, have two apartments instead of one, — that they will be better lighted, — better protected against cold and damp than, generally speaking, they now are, and on the whole, built with more regard to conveniency and comfort. By such al- terations, it cannot be doubted, that the health and the habits of the labourer and his femily would be improved ; and it seems to be equally certain, that the additional expense to the landlord and far- mer would be amply repaid by an increased quantity of labour wil- lingly given, or at least, by the more cheerful performance of the customary task ; setting aside the delight which must spring up in every well-constituted mind on beholding the diffusion of satis&c- tion and enjoyment. During the last three years there were 3 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. The parish may be considered as purely agricultural. Its in^ habitants have no connection with navigation. There are no fish- eries carried on from the coast ; and, with the exception of a brick and tile-work, chiefly employed in making tiles for drains, there is nothing which can be called a manufactory. The few tradesmen in the parish, that is, masons, carpenters, shoemakers, blacksmiths, bakers, tailors, are employed solely in supplying the wants of their immediate neighbours, and there is not a single weaver amongst diem. Not more than sixty years ago, there were twenty looms in the village, regularly employed, and a considerable home manu- fiicture of linen clotli ; but from the progress of the cotton manu- &cture, and the application of machinery to the spinning of flax, 256 HADDINGTONSHIRE. looms and lint, and their necessary concomitant, the domestic wheel, have totally disappeared. In all this there may be goody on the whole, but partial inconvenience is the result, as much want of female employment is experienced during the winter months. Within the same period, too, three oorn-mills were at work in the parish, but the progress of improvement has swept them, in like manner, away ; and the oatmeal now used is ground at a distance. Husbandry, — The husbandry of the parish is that improved sys- tem of agriculture which prevails in the district and county, and which is too well known to require to be again described. It seems to be enough to say, that the farmers here are as skilful as their neighbours, and the system of management quite as good ; that much attention is paid to draining ; that the light manures are largely and successfully applied ; that vast quantities of turnips are raised, and fed off partly with sheep ; and that, though naked fid- lows are still resorted to on the heavier soils, the breadth is becom- ing gradually less from the effect of superior culture. Carrots and turnip seed have been raised of late years, to a greater extent than is common in the neighbourhood, but with what advantage remains to be proved. The light soil along the coast is favourable to the production of the former crop, which, in a propitious season, is of very considerable value ; the excellence of our climate, to that of the latter ; but the cultivation of both seems to be attended with more than usual risk. Live-stock has hitherto, in this parish and district, been less at- tended to than in some other parts of the kingdom ; but the eyes of the farmer appear to be now fully open to the growing import- ance of this branch of his profession, and the next few years will probably witness in this respect no small improvement Produce. — It is in the last degree difficult to attain anything like an accurate acquaintance with the ^' average gross amount of raw produce" raised in this parish, and rather than deal in loose con- jectures, it seems to be better not to conjecture at all. V. — Parochial Economy. Marhet'Town. — Haddington is the nearest market-town^ and distant from the centre of the parish about four miles. Much of the grain raised here, however, is taken to Dalkeith and Edinburgh, where a price is generally obtained more than sufficient to compen- sate for the extra carriage. In the village of Aberlady, however, most of ihe articles more immediately connected with comfort and ABERLADY. 257 conveniency may be readily obtained; and some of them are usually considered as remarkably good in quality. Means of Communicaiion. — Aberlady has the benefit of a daily post; and no parish enjoys more fully the means of communica* tion with other districts. A well-regulated coach passes through the village on its way from North-Berwick to Edinburgh every lawful morning, and returns the same evening ; and every day in the week, Sunday excepted, a carrier starts from Aberlady, or pas- ses through it on his way to the capital. The roads in every di- rection are very good, and their present smoothness presents a striking contrast to the rough and uncomfortable state they were kept in, forty years ago. Thus all sorts of produce are carried easily to market, and more cheaply, too, than in former times; in- dustry is stimulated by the facility with which its products are ex- changed ; and capital is increased by the rapidity with which its returns are made. Eecksiastical State — Aberlady appears to have been a parish at an early period. It is supposed that, in very ancient times, the Culdees had an establishment near the village ; and that to this circumstance is to be traced the name ^^ Kilspindy," — signifying, in the British speech, the " cell of the black-heads, or hoods." This cell was probably connected with the Culdee monastery at Dun- keld, and, at all events, when the bishoprick of Dunkeld was es- tablished by David L, he conferred on the bishop of that diocese Kilspindy and Aberlady, with their lands adjacent, the advowson of the church, its tithes, and other rights. This constituted the ecclesiastical barony of Aberlady, over which a ** regality*' was subsequently obtained, and the whole parish, notwithstanding its local situation, was included in the bishoprick of Dunkeld. Aber- lady continued a mensal church of the Bishop of Dunkeld till the Reformation, — the spiritual duties being performed by a vicar ; and from this ancient connection, the parish was afterwards includ- ed within the commissariat of Dunkeld. Gawin Douglas, the celebrated Bishop of Dunkeld, who died in 1522, ^^ deeply regret- ted by all good men," granted the lands of Aberlady and Kilspin- dy to his half-brother. Sir Archibald Douglas, previously mention- ed ; and, in 1589, the then Bishop of Dunkeld resigned into the hands of the King the church of Aberlady with its teinds and per^ tinents, that it might be converted into a rectory, and the advow- son given to Patrick Douglas, Sir Archibald's grandsofi, as an in- dependency of the diocese of Dunkeld. James VI. accordingly 258 HADDINGTONSHIRE. erected the whole into a free barony, by the name of Aberlady. From the " Douglases" this barony, with the patronage of the church, passed to the " Fletchers ;" from them to the noble &- mily of " Portmore ;" and, about forty years ago, into the hands of the Earl of Wemyss, in whose family they remain. The church of Aberlady was built in 1773. It is conveniently situated for the parish, and is on the whole as comfortable as any in the county. It is seated for 525, considerably more than half the population. The number of communicants is about 400, and that of the dissenting families does, not exceed 12. The manse was built probably about 150 years ago, and seems for that period to have been a remarkably good one, perhaps the best in the district It cannot be called so now. The glebe extends to about 8 acres Scotch measure; and the stipend consists of 16 chalders of vic- tual, with the usual allowance for communion elements Education. — There are two schools in the parish, one of them parochial with the maximum salary. The school fees amount to about L 20 a-year. The people are fully alive to the be- nefits of education, and send their children to school, general- ly, at a very early age. The number of scholars at both schools in winter is about 150 ; but in spring and summer, for obvious reasons, the attendance is less numerous. In both schools, too^ during the winter months, there are evening classes for instruction in writing and arithmetic ; and throughout the year, two respecta- ble females occupy a portion of their time in giving lessons in nee- dle-work. There are also two Sunday schools. About a sixth part of the population is thus receiving the benefit of instruction, and laying, it is to be hoped, a good foundation for future useful- ness and respectability. Friendly Societies. — There are two such* institutions in the pa- rish, one of which has existed upwards of seventy years, — the other more than forty. They have between them more than L. 400 of capital ; and, though not in so flourishing a condition as is to be desired, have been unquestionably in a high degree beneficial, and promise to be useful for many years to come. Friendly societies may be considered as perhaps the best contrivances which have yet been fallen upon for supporting the independence, and promoting the comfort of the working-classes ; and they seem to be deserving of more countenance and support from the higher and the middle ranks, than on the whole they have hitherto received. Compared with " saving banks," their superiority can hardly fail to be ad- ABE R LADY. 259 mitted ; but both are worthy of all commendation and encourage- ment A parish library was established a few years ago, but as yet the funds are small, and the books not numerous. , Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor on the roll in this parish is generally from 20 to 25, and, together with the occasional poor, they receive assistance partly from the collections at the church doors, and mortcloth dues, partly from the interest of 1600 merks Scots, mortified for their use, by Sir Peter Wed- derburn of Oosford, one of which family, also, presented to the parish four handsome silver cups for the communion service, and partly from the produce of a regular assessment. The collections and mortcloth dues amount annually to about L. 25 ; the interest of the Oosford mortification is L.4, 8s. lOd. ; and the assess- ment has yielded annually, for many years past, between L. 60 and L. 70. From the amount of these sums, the usual small sa- laries are, of course, paid. In addition to the above sources of supply, the poor are in the habit of receiving, from the liberality of two of the heritors, the sum of L. 15 yearly, at Christmas, for the purchase of coals ; and throughout the year, private charity is believed to be extensive. On the whole, therefore, it is hoped that the claims of the poor are duly attended to. Assessments have existed in the parish more than fifty years, and, as seems to be their nature, have, in the course of that long period, increased considerably. The amount is not very large at present, but it can scarcely be doubted that it will continue to advance; and by such increase, it does not follow in the least that the wants of the poor will be better supplied. What is given in one form is apt to be withheld in another; — more reliance is placed on a visible fund than turns out to be safe ; and the condition of the poor, and of the labouring classes generally, is seldom improved on the whole. The law which provides for compulsory aid to the necessitous is not to be found fault with ; on the contrary, it is entitled to all praise ; but it is matter of much regret that it should be so oflen resort- ed to, at least in small country parishes, where a little considera- tion on the part of those who are liable to pay would seem to be all that is needful to make provision for the poor, in a way more beneficial to them, more pleasant to all. Till such harmonious arrangements, however, are entered into, it is not to be wondered at that the amount of assessments should increase, and still, that little kindly feeling should exist between those who receive assist- ance, and those from whom it appears to be wrung. At all 260 HADDINGTONSHIRE. events, it may be considered as unfortunate that the ministers and elders of this church should ever have had anything whatever to do with the distribution of other than purely voluntary funds, as in this way they have been placed in a position most unfavourable to their own comfort, and not at all conducive to the true interest of the people committed to their charge. Inns and Alehouses. — There are 5 houses in the parish, all of them in the village, licensed to sell ale and spirituous liquors. The number is obviously greater than can be looked upon as advanta* geous. Fuel. — The only fuel used in the parish is coal, and that is brought almost entirely from the collieries in the western district of the county. It has risen in price within the last twelve months 40 or 50 per cent, and is at this moment almost beyond the reach of the labouring classes. The quality is but indifferent, not comparable to that of some of the coal brought occasionally from the coast of Fife, or from Mid- Lothian. Miscellaneous Observations. It cannot be doubted that, since the date of. the former Statisti- cal Account of this parish, its condition has improved. The soil 18 more effectually drained; green crops are more extensively raised; live-stock is more carefully attended to ; many of the fields are bet- ter sheltered ; the general system of management is less slovenly, and, compared with the amount of produce, less expensive. Steam power in farm operations was then unknown ; it is now employed extensively, year after year more extensively, in thrashing out the grain, and, as is universally allowed, with much advantage. The spirit of enterprise is more active amongst the farmers ; the la- bourers are more alert and skilful in their several departments ; and all the implements of husbandry are in a state of greater effi- ciency. Within the last few years even, the science and practice of agriculture have made considerable advances ; and there is at present an evident tendency towards still farther improvement January 1837. • PARISH OF MORHAM. PRESBYTERY OF HADDINGTON, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. JAMES FORSYTH, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name is variously written, Morham, Moreham, Morhame, Morehame. Of these, the first form is the oldest and most correct ; although the second is now the most common. The origin of the name is differently given. But if Lord Hailes's prin- ciple be well founded, ^^ that the names of the most ancient villages and hamlets in East Lothian are Saxon," the most probable ori- gin of it will be Moor-Juim^ the village on, or bordering upon, the moor. No village, indeed, now exists in the parish. But several circumstances lead to the belief of the former existence of one, probably of considerable extent, and clustered, as was usual, around the stronghold of the Lord of the Manor ; in particular, the existence of such a village will help to account for the high- er rate of the ancient taxatio of the parish, than was otherwise to be expected from its extent * And immediately west of the locality usually assigned to the extinct village lies a district of the parish still called Morham Moor. Extent and Boundaries. — The extent of the parish is fully 3 miles in length from east to west, and varying from 1 to ^ mile in breadth. It is bounded oq^ the east by Whittinghame parish ; on the west and north by Haddington ; and on the south by Gar- vald. It contains 1458 Scots acres, dirided into nine farms of different size, the largest consisting of 315 acres, and the small- est of 27. ~ Topographical Character. — The parish lies on the acclivity of the land towards the Lammermoor, nearly midway betwixt these Highlands of East Lothian and the sea, and exemplifies at once the gradual nature of that acclivity, and the undulating line of its * In that taxatio, as given in Chalmers's Caledonia, Eoclesia de Morham is rated at 20 merks, while GarvaM and Ormiston are rated at \% and Stenton and Athef- staneford at 10 each. 262 HADDINGTONSHIRE. rise. In aspect, it is bare, tame, and unpicturesque, forming in these respects a complete contrast to tne dktricts of Whittinghame and Gifford to the east and west of it : although, towards - the western extremity, it assimilates more to the richly wooded cha- racter of these districts. It has neither lake, mountain, nor stream (excepting the small bum of Morham) within its boundaries. It possesses not a morsel of what may be called fine scenery, with the single exception of the pretty little glen which forms the mi- nister's pasture glebe. The inhabitants, however, find a com- pensation for the bareness and tameness of their residence in the greater degree of salubrity, which the total absence of swamps, the open sky overhead, and the free circulation of the air impart to it Frequently, on a spring or autumn morning, they are enjoying a bright and pure sunshine, while Haddington and the vale of the Tyne lie beneath their eye buried in dense ibg. At the time when other districts of the country were sufiering^ se- verely under the visitation of the Asiatic cholera, not a single case of it occurred here ; and ague, and other diseases incident to thickly wooded, flat and marshy countries, are here unknown. The highest elevation above the level of the sea may be stated at 300 feet. Geology. — Nothing very remarkable occurs under this head. Coal was wrought in former times in the western part of the parish, but it seems to have been of very inferior quality, and has not been wrought now for upwards of forty years. It is thought, however, that seams of a better quality still remain un- touched in the same neighbourhood. And perhaps it were worth while to ascertain the fact, when the value of a good coal pit in this district of the county is considered. — There is a freestone quarry in the Haggs moor, but the stone is coarse and soft. The rock elsewhere is generally of the trap formation, often highly por- phyritic and cellular, and strongly coloured with iron. Botany. — In the Minister's Glen grow in great profusion Diati" thtut deltoides, Saxifraga granulatay Campanula rotundifoliay Viola tricolor and coni/io, Sedum acrcy Thymus serpyUum, GaUumverum^ Veronica officinalis^ Sfc. so as, in summer, to cover the banks with a beautifully mottled carpet, of which the predominating colour va- ries with the successive months. In the burn and along its edges occur Epilobium hirsutum (great hairy willow-herb,) abundantly; Mentha hirsuta (hairy mint;) Alisma plantago (great water plan- MORUAM. 263 taio ;) Spircpa vbnaria (meadow-sweet;) Geumrivale (water avens;) Veronica beccabunga (brooklime ;) Nasturtium officinale, (common watei^cress) in great plenty ; Caltha palustris (marsh marigold,) &C. In the moor, not yet quite extirpated, and ever ready to spring up abundantly, occur in patches, Calluna vulgaris^ Erica tetrcUixy and E, dnerea, (common, cross-leaved, and fine-leaved heath;) and bushes of juniper (Juniperus communis) are here and there to be met with. In the pasture fields, the scarlet pim- pernel (AnagaUis arvetuis,) whose petals close at the approach of rain, and indicate fair weather by their opening in the morning, is occasionally to be found. And among the plants to be met with elsewhere may be mentioned the following : — Antirrhinum Una" ria (yellow toad-flax ;) Achillea ptarmtca (sneezewort ;) Artemisia absyntiiium (common wormwood;) Convolvulus arvensis (small bindweed ;) Atropa belladonna (deadly nightshade ;) Echium vul^ gore (viper's bugloss ;) Geranium pratense (meadow crane's-bill ;) Hypericum perforatum (perforated St John's wort;) Lychnis dioi' coj (red and white campion ;) Mtdva sglvestris (common mallow ;) Orchis maculata (spotted orchis;) PotentiUa anserina (silver-weed;) Reseda lutea, (wild mignonette.) It is remarkable that the prim- rose does not occur. IL — Civil History. Historical Notices. — There are few of these connected with the parish. In former times a castle, of which not a vestige now re- mains, stood on a point of land near the church, and overlooking the glen below, which no doubt was the residence and stronghold of the Lord of the Manor.* Who the Lord of the Manor was pre- vious to the twelfth century cannot be ascertained ; but it would appear that then the manor of Morham was possessed by a fami- ly bearing the name of Malherb, who assumed firom the property the name of Morham or de Morham, after the fashion of the time of taking the surname from the family possession. In this family it came down to Sir Thomas de Morham, who was of some dis- tinction in the time of Robert Bruce. In him the title became extinct And his daughter and heiress, Euphemia, marrying Sir John de Gifford, of Yester, transferred to him the manor of Mor- ham, along with other estates, — from whom it passed, by another female transmission, to the Hays of Locherwart, the ancestors of the Marquis of Tweeddale. * The field on Uie opposite side of the gleii to where the castle stood is still cal« led th€ Castle Shot, 264 H ADDINGTONS H IRE. The manor of Morham included, as far as we can asoerUin, nearly the whole of that division of the parish which lies west of the church, and which now forms several distinct properties. The eastern division would appear to have once formed part of the ez« tensive possessions of the Earls of Bothwell, who, first as the Hebburns of Hales, retainers of the powerful Earls of Dunbaj, subsequently as Barons or Lords of Hales, and finally as Earls of Both well, have been much mixed up with the history of the coun- ty and of Scotland. The extract given below* mentions 3/atii«- hill as belonging to James Earl of Bothw^ell, who finished his in- famous career as Duke of Orkney, and husband of our unfortu- nate Mary. And ^^ the barony of Morham" is specified among the estates restored, together with the forfeited titles of the &mi- ly, to Francis Earl of Bothwell, nephew of the former Earl, by James VI. By this Earl Francis the barony was finally forfeited in 1593. This eastern division of the parish now belongs wholly to Earl Wemyss. The western division, forming the old manor of Morham, ultimately became the property of Sir David Dalrymple, Queen's Advocate in the reign of Queen Anne, who also bought the es- tate of Hailes. While in the possession of the Dalrymples, por- tions of it were sold from time to time, — until in 1830 the present representative of that junior branch of the Noble family of Stair finally denuded herself of the manor of Morham. Tradition points to the Glen of Morham as a place where the people, in far remote days, were wont to assemble to hear the gos- pel preached. And no scene, certainly, could be better adapted for the purpose than the particular spot which is thus hallowed* It is perfectly secluded, and in no degree indicated on the face of the country. The position ascribed to the preacher is a small rocky table, elevated a little above the margin of the bum, which runs murmuring in front; — while the brae opposite, where the con- * 1559 October. The Earl of Bothwell attacked Cockburn of Ormiston, who hid received 4000 crowns from Sir Ralph Sadler, for the use of the Congregatioiit and, woumling him, carried off the money. Sadler mentions that Arran and Moray immediately went with 200 horsemen, and 100 footmen, and two pieces of artilleryv to Bothweirs house, in Haddington, where he occasionally resided, but were a quar* ter of an hour too late. Having got notice that the troopers were entering the West Port in pursuit of him, Bothwell fled down the Gowl Close to the Tyne, andkeeping along the bed of the river, stole into the house of Cockburn of Sandy Bed, by % back-door, and changing clothes with the turnspit, performed her duty for some days, till he found an opportunity to escape. In return for this timeous shelter, Bothwell gave Cockburn and his heirs a perpetual ground annual of 4 bolls of wheat, 4 bolls of barley, and 4 bolls of oats, out of his lands of Mainshill, in the county of Iliiddington, pariwh of Morham. MORHAM. 265 gregation are said to have sat, is of a semicircular form, rising with a gentle slope to the level of the country above. The tra- dition may be without foundation, as no historical record spe- cially sanctions it : — it may refer, indeed, to a time as to which all is dark and uncertain, the era, namely, of the first introduc- tion of Christianity to East Lothian. But it is pleasing to cherish the belief of it — to fimcy that here St Baldred himself preached, as it gives the additional charm of a sacred interest, to a spot of much natural sweetness in itself. Proprietors. — The Cess- Book of 1667, gives the followihg pro- prietors of the parish at that date, — Lady Bearford, Viscount of Kingston, Laird of Beanston, Mr James Cockburn. The present proprietors are. Lord Wemyss, to whom belong Standingstones,* Northrigg, and Mainshill ; Robert Ainslie, Esq. of RedcoU, proprietor of Morham Mains, and Morham Kirkhall ; James Aitchison, Esq. of West Morham ; George Carstairs, Esq. of Morham Bank ; Kenneth Mackenzie, Esq. of Bentonhall ; and Captain Cameron, of Beecb-hilL Eminent Men, — An aisle behind the church contains the bury- ing vault of the Dalrymples of Hailes. And here are deposited the remains of the first Baronet, Sir David, already mentioned ; of his son Sir James, who was Auditor of the Exchequer, and con- nected by marriage with the Earls of Haddington ; and of Lord Hailes, who died in 1792. Parochial Records. — The earliest date in these records is Fe- bruary t22, 1712. Mention is subsequently made of ^< old session minutes," which must have been of a date prior to 1712; but these are irrecoverably lost From that date, they appear to have been accurately kept, and contain in the earlier portion, a most par- ticular notice of parish occurrences and transactions, — births and marriages, intermixed with accounts of the sessional income and expenditure, who preached on the Sabbath, or if there was no sermon, whether the minister preached or lectured, &c &c» The following rather remarkable notices occur : — 1715, October 13. This l>eing the time of the Rebellion, the cash in the box*f- was committed to Mr Barclay's care. (Mr Bar- * So called from leveral immense upright stones, in differoit enclosures of the §um, such as occur in other parts of the country, the memorials probably of some fiirgotten feud. "f A ** big bos** and a ** little box" were long kept ; the former to contain the larger sums, bonds, bills, &c., the property of the session,— the latter to receive the collections and occasional contributions in course of the year. The current expen- 266 HADDINGTONSHIRE. * clay was minister at that time, afterwards translated to Hadding- ton.) 1718, Nov. 16. The sum of L. 13, Ss. Scots, collected for the support of the ministers of Lithuania. 1719, Dec 6. The sum of L.8^ 9s. lid. Scots, collected for our distressed Protestant brethren in Franconia, in Grennany. 1720, Nov. 6. The sum of L.8^ 10s. Scots, collected for build- ing the church of Livingstone, in Presbytery of Linlithgow. 1 722, Sept 30. Given by the minister's order to an Episcopal minister, L. 1, 10s. Scots. 1723, August 18. To an old distressed Episcopal minister, 12s. Dec. 15. To a sand-glass, 8s. S. 1724, June 21. Collected for building a church in New York, in America, for our brethren, L. 6, 4s. Sd. Scots. 1735, August 3. The session resolves to make a collection as soon as convenient, for the redemption of one William Dowell, a slave at Algiers. 1742, August 1. To Mr Bruce, Dissenting minister in Newcas- tle, for defraying the charge of building a meeting-house, L. 3. III. — Population. The return to Dr Webster in 1755 is said in the former Statis- tical Account to have stated the population At 345 souls. If the number be rightly given, a decrease has since that time taken place, which it is difficult to account for either by the junction of farms, the larger use of machinery and consequent reduction of hands employed in agriculture, or any other change to which a small a^icultural parish like this can have been subject For in 1791 the population had sunk so low as 190, and at no time sub- sequent has it eicceeded 265. It is conceived that some material error found its way into the return of 1755. And indeed another authority* takes ofTjust 100 from that return. The four last Returns to Government exhibit the following par- ticulars : 1801. Families in the parish 53; males 137 ; females 117; total 254. 181 1. Families 52 ; of these employed in agriculture 43 ; in trade, &c. 9. Males 1 13 ; females 106 ; toul 219. 1821 . Families 52 ; of these employed in agriculture 46 ; in trade, &c. 6. Males 121 ; females 120; toUl 241. ses were paid out of the litde box, and when the funds therein were insufficient a sum was drawn from the big box. At the year*s end, a reckoning of " char^ and discharge,'* was formally made with the kirk-treasurer, when the money left in the little box was transferred to the big box, and a note entered on the session reeord of the whole monies on hand. * Chalmers's TabuUur Sute of Haddingtonshire. 3 MORHAM. 267 1881. Families 50 ; of these employed in agriculture 40 ; in trade, &c. 10 Malesupwardsof 20 yearsofage, . . €0 under 20, • . 59 Females, 143 ; Total, 2fi-2. The average of births, marriages, and deaths is, as in the former Account, viz. births from 5 to 6 ; marriages from 1 to 2 ; deaths from 3 to 4. Only one small proprietor is resident in the parish. The peo- ple are in general sober, industrious, frngal, and contented. No- thing has occurred among them for many years requiring the in- tervention of the civil magistrate. And only two cases, and these by no means of an aggravated character, have called for the exer- cise of sessional discipline since the present incumbency. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The parish is wholly agricultural Of those not actually employed in the labours of the field, there are 2 black- smiths and 1 Wright, a millwright The parish is also honoured by the residence of a tailor. Htubandry — SoiL — The lands are all well enclosed, mostly with stone dikes, in many cases with hedges, which, however, receive but very little attention from the farmer ; a neglect too common in East Lothian. The soil in general inclines to clay, and in the eastern and middle portions of the parish, particularly around ihe church, is of very excellent quality. Towards the west end, it becomes much inferior, although even there, by a liberal and ju- dicious treatment, it is made to yield wheat of a superior descrip- tion. All tKe land capable of tillage is under cultivation, except- ing about 40 acres of thriving plantation, chiefly on Bentonhall, and West Morham. The system of husbandry practised is of the most improved kind, the rotation of crop being adapted to the bet- ter or worse quality of the land. A considerable breadth of turnip is annually grown to be eaten on the ground. And the improvement of laying the land down in grass for two or more years b ge- nerally adopted. Draining, both tile and wedge, has, of late more especially, been carried to a great extent here, as well as general* ly throughout the county, and much is about to be done in that way on one of the principal farms recently leased anew. The ave- rage produce per acre may be stated to be, of wheat 8^ bolls ; of oats 8; of barley 8b Very little hay is grown. No sheep are bred in the parish. About 40 score are annually pastured. jRmU^ Leases. — The gross rent of the parish is stated in the former 2G8 HADDINGTONSHIRE. Account to have been about L. 800. In 1816, when the average rent of the land per acre was so high as L. 2, the gross rental was more than triple that sum, viz. L.2916. And taking the present average of rent per acre at L. 1, 8s., the gross rental amounts to L. 2041, 4s. Sterling. There must therefore have been some egregious error in the former statement The valued rent is L. 16J4, 9s. 7d. The sum assessed for the parish roads is. L. 46, 10s., the product of 23^ ploughgates at L. 2 each. The leases are all of nineteen years duration. In one recent in- stance, the choice of a money or grain rent, to be made and become final at the end of the first year, was given. In another instance, the rent is wholly grain, viz. a boll of wheat. In a third instance the rent is one-half money, and one-half corn of the three sorts. The rents are understood to be in general advantageous to the farmer. Wages. — The rate of labourers' wages has for some years been stationary at Is. 6d. per day summer and winter. Females receive lOd. per day. Hynds, who are generally married, are paid in greater part in kind, and receive 12 bolls of oats, 3 bolls of bar* ley, 8 bushels of peas, L. 1 in lieu of lint, a cow's grass and win- ter keep, 800 or 1000 yards of ground for potatoes, or in some cases 4 bolls of potatoes instead, five weeks' meat during harvest, and their coals driven free. Those who can stack and sow receive half a boll of wheat additional. They pay the rent of their house and garden by reaping during harvest, which is usually done by the wife or some other member of the family, and, failing this, by a hired reaper. In some instances they are obliged to keep a worker for field-work, called a bondager (a vexatious appellation, now very properly passing out of use,) all the year. — Cottars have their bouse and garden from the farmer, on the conditions of working during harvest, and keeping always a bondager, who receives lOd. a-day when employed, and mu st be at call. Providing a bondager, they are not themselves astricted to labour on the farm, and when employed, receive the current daily wages of labourers. They are allowed 800 yards of ground for potatoes, and have their coals driven free. The houses both of hynds and cottars are here, as elsewhere, miserably deficient in accommodation. They have usually only one apartment, and that but small. And in that one room, often ill-aired, worse lighted, and damp, are to be found crowded together sometimes a family of eight or ten persons. The extreme inconveni« MORHAM. - 2G9 ence of this is most severely felt in cases of sickness* And at all times, it must be of most injurious tendency to the modesty and de* cency of domestic intercourse. Houses of a superior and more commodious description for the farm-servants,, containing each two apartments, are now erecting on the farm of Morham Mains, — an example which, for the sake of the health, comfort, and good morals of an important and valuable class of our rustic population, it were much to be desired, should be generally followed. V, — Parochial Economy. Market — The market-tovm is Haddingtori, from which the dis- tance b three miles, and where an excellent market is found equally for the sale of the various produce of the parish, and for the purchase of such articles as the inhabitants may require. Means of Communieatian.^^The parish labours under great dis« advantages on this head. No public conveyance of any kind passes through it, or comes nearer than Haddington. The inhabitants have to send to Haddington for their letters, or depend on chance opportunities of having them brought up. Not even a carrier be- longs to the parish, and it only gets a share of the accommodation of the Garvald and Stenton carriers, as they pass through the east and west extremities onward. The main roads are now tolerably well kept, but very circuitous, and the comfort and ease of the in- ter-communication of the parish are much impeded by the deplor- able state of the branch road, (if road it may be called,) leading through a large division of it westward. EcdesiasHcal State. — The church is pleasantly situated at the entrance of tlie little glen before-mentioned, and nearly in the centre of the parish. No record exists when it was first built, but it was taken down and rebuilt in its former situation in 1724.* It has since been occasionally repaired, and is at present in tolerably good condition. It contains sufficient accommodation for the pre- sent wants of the parbh, and may be enlarged at a small expense if necessary.— The manse till recently stood down close by the ehurcfe ; but having become ruinous beyond all repair, and the minister having frequently been incommoded to a very great de- gree by the flooding of the burn which flowed round it, it was pulled down in 1827, the site of it thrown into the garden, and a new and handsomely finished manse built in a situation as much * While the church was rebuilding, the mioitter preached, on alternate daTi* with the miniiter of Garrald. at Barrm, Vhen united with Oanrald, although ttilf po9s««- •ing a avparate place uf worth ip.— -Session Records. HADDINGTON. S 270 IIADDINQTONSHIRK. exposed as the old situation was snug and sheltered, at a cost of L. 900 Sterling. The offices remain where they were. — The glebe consists of 4 acres of good land, together with the said glen, com- monly called Morham Braes, as a grass glebe, the extent of which may be- about 2 acres of excellent early pasture. — The stipend is augmented by the Government Bounty from L. 109, 2s. Stcrlioff. — The patronage seems always to have belonged to the Lord of the Manor, but was retained -by Miss Dalrymple when the pro- perty was sold. There are few Dissenters in the parish, — none among the te- nantry, with the exception of one family recently come. The peo- ple attend church with becoming regularity. Average number of communicants 95 ; male heads of families, 32. Educaiioiu — The parochial school is the only one. The salary of the schoolmaster is L. 34, 4s. 4^d. with an allowance for de« ficiency of garden ground. He has the legal accommodations, al- though the house is small and inconvenient There is a capital school-house lately built anew. Owing to the convenience of situ- ation of the school and other circumstances, there is a much greater attendance of scholars than the parish supplies, — the average num- ber being so high as 75. The branches taught, are, besides the usual ones, geography, mensuration, and French. There are generally three or four learning the languages. — There is not an in- dividual of a proper age in the parish who cannot read, andjthe peo- ple have a just sense of the value of education to their children. The minister meets the children belonging to the congregation after sermon on the Sabbath. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The sources of aid to the poor of the parish are, the collections of the church door, and mortcloth dues, the interest of a small sum of money now lessening, and when these fail assessments. There is at present only one person receiving a regular allowance, but a few others get occasional aid, and a supply of coals, meal, and flannel in winter. Tliere is, be- Rtdes, the burden of an orphan child. The people still cherish in general an honourable aversion to *^ coming upon the parish." FueL — The fuel used is coal, brought generally from Penston colliery, distant about eight miles. The price of a cart is nearly doubled by the carriage. InJts. — There is only one ale-house at Crossgate Hall, kept by the patriarch of the parish. There is not a drunkard from one end of the parish to the other. BOLTON. 271 Miscellaneous Observations. Morham is one of those few very small parishes in the church which ought either to be annihilated, by dividing them among the surrounding parishes, or augmented to a suflScient amount of po* pulation by additions from such populous parishes as may lie con- tiguous. In the case of Morham, the latter is the process that ought to be adopted. Additions might, with propriety, be made to it, from the outskirts of several of the contiguous parishes, where the inhabitants are considerably nearer the church of Morham than that of their own parish. And, in particular, while complaint is made of the want df church accommodation in the extensive pa- rish of Haddington, an easy remedy of the evil, in great part, offers itself, by annexing that portion of the landward district of Haddington which lies in to Morham to that parish, and, on the west side transferring another portion of it to Bolton« February 1837. PARISH OF BOLTON. rilesbytery of haddington, synod of lothian and tweeddale. THE REV JOHN ABERNETHY, A. M. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. The etymology of the name of this parish is quite uncertain. Extent, Sfc — It extends in length nearly 6 miles, and its me^ dium breadth may be 1^ mile. Its figure is extremely irregular^ and could not be easily described without a map. It is bounded on the north-west, north, and east by the parish of Haddington, which is separated from it on the east and north-east for about three miles, by what is called the Gifford, or the Bolton, or the Coalston water, after the parishes, or properties through which it runs ; on the south, by Yester parish ; and on the west and north-west, by the parishes of Humbie and Salton. There are no mountain ranges in this parish, and scarcely any- thing that can be called a hill, the highest ridges being all under the plough, or capable of being so. The surface, however, is agree* 272 HADDINGTONSHIRE. ably diversified by undulating elevations ; and everywhere has abundant declivity for thoroughly draining the soil. Hydrography. — The parish is abundantly supplied with spring water, with the exception, perhaps, of two farms. The principal stream is the one already mentioned, as constituting the greater part of the boundary between this parish and that of Haddington. It is a small rapid river, which has its principal sources in the Lam* mermuir hills, but is fed by various tributary streamlets in its course downwards. After running through the grounds of Yester, Eaglescarnie, Dalgourie, Bolton, Coalston, and Lennoxlove, it joins the Tyne in the grounds of the latter place, about a mile, west from Haddington. This beautiful stream is well stocked with trout, and through- out the greater part of its course its banks are adorned with plan- tations of wood. Some of the trees are very fine. The only other rivulet worthy of notice is the Birns Water, which also rises in the Lammermuir hills, and forms the boundary between this parish and that of Humbie. It holds on its course down- wards between the parishes of Humbie and Pencaitland on the one hand, and that of Salton on the other, till it unites with the Tyne in the grounds of Mr Fletcher of Salton. At the point of junction with the Tyne, it is rather the larger of the two. Meteorology. — On this head nothing need be added to what has been already stated in the other accounts of the district. Like that of the surrounding parishes, the climate is very salubrious. A good many instances of longevity occur in the register of deaths. There are several such instances at present, and about five years ago, one woman died in the hundred and fifth year of her age. Geology and Mineralogy. — On this head almost nothing can at present be said, as there is not an open quarry in the whole pa- rish. The strata are to a small extent exposed by the action of the river first mentioned. In part of its course may be seen a sort of coarse sandstone nearly horizontal. Limestone might pro- bably be found, as it occurs very near the boundaries, in the pa« rishes of Salton and Yester. Boulders are met with, when the s^oil is opened up by drains or otherwise ; and it is probable, have been of frequent occurrence, but have been broken up for econo- mical purposes. Any that the writer has examined are of very compact greenstone, no body of which is known to exist within a very considerable distance. The soil is all arable, and is all under the plough, excepting BOLTON. 273 y/thzt is covered by wood, which is also capable of cultivation, pod a few iuconsiderabl^ patches on the sides of the streams. There is a tract extending from Morham Muir through part of the parishes of Morham, Haddington, Yester, Bolton, Salton, and Humbie, the soil of which is of a very inferior quality, being gene- rally a cold thin clay on a tilly subsoil. Part of this tract has been originally covered by heath, as is evident from what is still to be seen in the woods. The soil of the rest of the parish is generally good — a fertile clay with some inconsiderable exceptions; and has been brought into a very productive state by the improved system of cultivation which has long prevailed in this district. Botany. — In the different plantations are found all the ordinary species of forest trees, Eaglescarnie, which is well wooded, has fine old timber on its grounds, and, in particular, some Spanish chestnuts of large size near the house. In these woods the prin- cipal native plants of any note occur ; among which may be noticed, as not so common, Listera nidus avis^ and Campanula rapuncu" hides* Silaus pratensis is seen in considerable abundance. II. — Civil History^. It is stated by Chalmers in his Caledonia, Vol. iL p. 437, &c* ^^ that the manor of Bolton was early enjoyed by the St Hilaries, who were succeeded by William de Vetereponte, who married Emma de St Hilary. Notwithstanding the terrible disasters of the succession war, in which, as we learn from Rymer and Prynne, this family was involved, yet was Bolton, with lands in other dis- tricts, enjoyed by it under Robert I. and David II. In the reign of James II. it belonged to George, Lord Haliburton of Dirleton. It was at length acquired by Patrick Hepburn, Earl of Bothwell, after a long suit in Parliament with Marion, the Lady of Bolton," (in which his principles and character appear to great disadvan- tage.) ^' In 1526 and 1543, Bolton was in possession of a cadet of his femily, by the name of Hepburn of Bolton. In January 1568, John Hepburn of Bolton was executed, as the associate of the Earl of Bothwell, his chie( in the murder of Darnley. The manor of Bolton, thus forfeited, was given to William Maitland, the well known Secretary Lethington. It was confirmed to the Earl of Lauderdale in 1621. Richard, Earl of Lauderdale, who died about the year 1693, sold the barony of Bolton, and even the ancient inheritance of Lethington, to Sir Thomas Livingston, who was created Viscount Teviot in 1696 ; and Sir Thomas transferred the whole to Walter, Master of Blantyre, afterwards Lord EVd^^- 274 HADDINGTONSHIRE. tyre, in 1702, in whose family the property remains, ** The money for this purchase was left by Frances Teresa Stuart, Duchess of Richmond and Lennox, who was grand- daughter of the first Lord Blantyre. The name was by this Lady's will changed from Leth* ington to Lennoxlove, not certainly a happy change so &f as the sound is concerned. Land-owners. — The only residing heritor in this parish is the Honourable General Patrick Stuart, Commander of the Forces in Scotland, whose place of residence is Eaglescamie, pleasantly Mtuatcd near the stream already mentioned. Eaglescamie was for several centuries the residence of a branch of the Haliburtons^ Lords of Dirleton. In 1747, Patrick Lindesay, Esq. of the Lind- says of Kirkforthar, (descended from the Lords Lindsay of the Byres), married Margaret, daughter and heiress of Thomas Hali- burton, Esq. of Eaglescamie, and she being heir of line, Patrick Lindesay, Esq. was designed by that title. Their eldest daughter, Katharine, mamed Alexander, tenth Lord Blantyre; and the Ho- nourable General Patrick Stuart, before-mentioned, is their se- cond son, and acquired the estate of Eaglescamie by a deed of entail of his grandfather, Patrick Lindesay. The other land- owners in the parish, are. Lord Blantyre, the Marquis of Tweed- dale, the Earl of Dalhousie, Lord Sinclair, Fletcher of Salton, Bogue of Kirkland, and Grant of Filmuir. Parochial Registers — These consist of several volumes, the earliest of which commences anno 1641. They comprehend the records of the kirk-session and registers of baptisms, marriages and deaths. The register of deaths has not been very regularly kept, and the first volume of the records is a good deal tarnished. Antiquities, — Chalmers, in his Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 404, says, " The most prominent objects which next attract the antiquarian eye, are the hill-forts of the earliest people. Of this nature, pro- bably, is the camp in Bolton parish, comprehending five or six acres, and is called Chesters." In Vol. i. p. 163, 164, he says, " from St Abb's-head, along the coast, no Roman camp has yet been discovered, whatever antiquarians may have supposed." Chalmers is certainly incorrect in this conjecture and assertion. The camp in Bolton-muir, though now greatly defaced, has evi- dently been quadrangular, whereas the British strengths, it is be- lieved, were almost uniformly circular, unless when unavoidably otherwise, from the nature of the situation, which is not the case here, as the ground is level, bounded on one side only bv a ravine BOLTON. 275 of no great depth. Although there be no known remains of Ro- man roads in East Lothian, this is no evidence that there may not have been such. In a country so early and so completely cultivated as East Lothian, such roads must long since have disappeared, ex- cepting in so far as their direction coincided with the existing roads. It is hardly conceivable that a people, so shrewd and able as the Romans were, who so long occupied the best parts of Britam, and who had such large armies to maintain, should have over- looked so fertile a district as this is. Besides, the great Ro- man road by Lauder, Channelkirk and Soutra-hill, considerable remains of which are still visible in the less cultivated portions of its tract, passed along close by the district of East Lothian, and in its progress over Soutra-hill, commanded a most mag- nificent and extensive prospect of almost the whole of its surface. No one who knows the history of the Romans can suppose it pos- sible that this could have escaped their notice, or that they did not take advantage of the supplies which such a district was capa- ble of affording them. To secure these supplies, they must have had stations at proper intervals. Two of these, at least, it is be- lieved, are still to be seen. The late intelligent Mr Sangster of Humbie pronounces the fort on the lands of Whitburgh to have been a Roman castellum. It is only a short distance east from the itinerary station of Curry on the Gore Water, the Curia of the Romans. The camp in Bolton parish is distant from this fort somewhere about six miles. * The very name Chesters seems to indicate a Roman origin. This name, which occurs so often, both singly, as in the present instance, and in composition, as in the names Tadca^^er, Worcester^ MauchesteTf &c. is certainly » cor- rupt on of the Roman Castra, and points oQt many of the military stations of that remarkable people. There is now no vestige of the remains of a mansion on the manor of Bolton, mentioned in the former Statistical Account ; but the field on which it stood is still called the Orchard Park. III. — Population. In 1755y the population amounted to 359 1791, - - 285 1801, - - 252 1811, - . 265 1821, - . 315 1831 - - 332 1835*, males 158; females, 16:> ; ^2:^ Average of births, - . 5^ ^ of marriages, - - ]^ of deaths, . 3 Males. Femalct. . TouiL 64 61 125 40 44 84 34 37 71 17 lb 36 3 4 7 276 HADDINGTONSHIRE. FopulatioD under 15 years of age, between 15 and 30, 30 and 50, 50 and 70, upwards of 70, 158 165 323 Proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, - 8 Number of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 67 During the three years preceding the date of this report, there was one illegitimate birth in the parish. Manufactories. — There is one manufactory for smith-work, one for rural carpentry, and one com and barley-mill, belonging to three families, and employing six or seven individuals. There b no tailor, no shoemaker, and no public-house. There are no insane persons at present in the parish, and none deaf and dumb, or blind.* It is not believed that there are any who engage in poaching or smuggling. As Bolton is an entirely agricultural parish, and none encouraged to reside in it but such as are necessary for agricultural purposes, the trifling increase or decrease of the population in different years is owing to the state of agriculture, and to the state of the families, as to numbers, which are perpetually fluctuating, in con- sequence of the frequent changes of residence from one parish to another. The same cause accounts, to a certain extent, for the fluctuation in the. proportions between the male and the female portions of the population. But there is another point of view of much more importance, in regard to the influence which these frequent changes are cal- culated to have on character and morals. Those who are fre- quently shifting their places of residence can never feel themselves identified with the views and interests of any neighbourhood, nor fully experience the salutary influence of its institutions. In re- ference to the causes of these frequent changes, is it not deserv- ing the serious consideration of all parties concerned, whether they sufficiently cherish that reciprocal sympathy and regard for each others interests, which is so productive of good in every relation, — and whether there be a proper distinction made by those who have * Since this was written one case of insanity has occurred. This person is under the care of her relatives, who receive for her from the parish L. 12 per annum, There is also a case of blindness, lliis young man is at present, at an eipense of 6ve shil- lings a week to the parish, supported in the Edinburgh Asylum for the Blind, with a view to his being instructed in some art by which he may be enabled to support hiniHcir. 6 BOLTON. 277 the power, between the conscientious and well-behaved, and those who are otherwise ? In some of the other parochial accounts, attention has been earnestly called to the very inadequate accommodation provided in the houses of the most numerous class of our population, which is far from being propitious to their morals or their comfort. No- thing, surely, but the awakening of attention to the subject, is ne- cessary to bring about some amelioration. It cannot be doubted that there are many who only require to have the matter brought prominently under their notice, to induce them to abate this cry- ing evil. If there should, be others indifferent or hostile to any alteration for the better, they might be influenced to change their views, by the example of those who have the good of their fellow- creatures more at heart. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. Number of Scottish acres under cultivation, rated at 90] ploughgates, - 2101 in permanent pasture, - - - - - 55 underwood, - - .... 296 Total, 245? Rent of Tjand, — The average rent per acre is L. I, 68. 9Jd., the grain rents being calculated by the average of the medium fiars of wheat for the seven years ending with 1834. The highest rent is seven bushels of wheat, and the lowest, three bushels at the medium fiars, with a maximum of L. 3, lOsC per ifriperial quarter, and no minimum. There might also be quot- ed in one case, a maximum of L. 3, '4s. and a minimum of L. 2, 4s. • The total rent is L. 2888^ Is. 6d. ; the valued rent, Scottish money, L. 2437, 12s. 7d. Produce. — Calculating the prices of grain of all kinds at the medium fiars for tlie average of the seven years ending with 1894, the produce is about L. 7709 15 Produce of green crops, haj and pasture, «)d of the cattle, horses, and sheep fed on these, as nearly as can be estimated, about - 21 15 7 * Plpodaoe from the thinnings, &c. of the woods, about - SOO Total, L. 10,125 2 It is unnecessary to notice the other particulars under this head, as they differ in nothing from the statements in the accounts of the neighbouring parishes already published. V. — Parochial Economy. Market^Town. — There is no town or village in the parish. The * The produce from the green crops, hay, und pasture, is given in one sum, because these crops arc generally consumed on the farm, and the value of each separately can- not be easily ascertained. 278 HADDINGTONSHIRE. nearest market-town is Haddington, distant nearly two miles from the lower part of the parish, and two miles and three-quarters from the church. Besides what is sold in Haddington, a considerable part of the produce is carried to the Dalkeith and Edinbui^h markets. Means of Communication. — The great road from London to Edinburgh by Haddington passes within the distance specified in the last particular. The road from Edinburgh to Dunse, by Tranent, Pencaitland, Salton, Yester, and across the Lammer« muir Hills, traverses the parish near the centre, where it is nar- rowest, being there scarcely a mile in breadth. There is another road tolerably good for a considerable part of its length, which crosses that last mentioned nearly at right angles, and runs through the whole length of the parish. Several of the statute labour roads are in a rather indifferent state of repair. There is no post^ office in the parish. It is accommodated by the office at Had- dington, and part of the upper part of the parish by^that atJWest Salton. Ecclesiatical State, — William de Vetereponte, before-mention- ed, granted the church of Bolton, with its lands, tithes, and perti- nents to the canons of Holyrood; and this gift was confirm- ed by a charter of William the Lion. It remained in the hands of the canons of Holyrood till the Reformation. In 1633, the epoch of the Episcopate of Edinburgh, it was annexed to the new- ly createdj bishoprick, which was itself subverted in 1641. In the ancient taxatio, the church of Bolton was rated at the incon- siderable value of 20 merks.* The present church was built in 1809. It is a handsome building in what has been called, whether properly or not^ the modern Gothic style, with a square tower at the western end. It can accommodate nearly 300 sitters, and, consequently, is larger than is necessary for the population. The situation is very incon- venient for the upper part of the parish, being near its lower ex- tremity. The manse was built a few years before the church ; is suitable to the parish, and in good repair. The glebd contains 6.286 acres, and was let during the greater part of the writer's incumbency for L. 25 ; but is not worth so much now. The stipend is the minimum, with L.8, 8s. lO^d. in name of grass mail and communion elements, though now quite inadequate for both purposes. ■ CalGdonia, Vol. ii. p. 531. BOLTON. 279 ^e whole population is connected with the Established Church, with the exception of one family, which is Episcopalian, and a very few individuals, who are Seceders.* The average number of communicants for the last fifteen years is 1 19. There has been contributed for a number of years past, upwards of L, 10 Sterling a year for religious and charitable purposes. Ministers of Bolton. — Mr Andrew Simson, vicar and exhorter, November 1567 ; Mr James Carmichael, minister of Haddington, Bolton, Estanefurd, and St Martin's Kirk in the Nungaitt, 1574, resigned Bolton about 1586 ; William Balfour, reader at Bolton, 1574; Mr James Lamb, admitted September 1587, died 1640; Mr John Courtie or Courtane, admitted 1640; Mr James Nairn, admitted 1662; Mr Walter Paterson, admitted November 23, 1665, outed for refusing the test, 1681 ; Mr John Sinclair, ad- mitted November 30, 1682, continued after the Revolution, and died 1705; Mr William Hamilton, admitted May 11, 1708^ died May 1743; Mr John Hamilton, admitted 1744, died February 14, 1797; Mr Alexander Brunton, admitted September 28, 1797, translated to New Greyfriars', Edinburgh, in 1803; Mr Andrew Stewart, admitted April 26, 1804, translated to Erskine, 1815; Mr John Abernethy, admitted May 14, 1816. Education. — The parochial school is the only one in the pa- rish, and it would be quite sufficient for the population if it were not for the localities already alluded to. Those children who are at too great a distance from the parish school are accommo- dated at schools in the neighbouring parishes. The branches taught are those common to all parish schools, with geography, mathematics, Latin, French, and occasionally Greek, all which are efficiently taught by Mr Young, the present master. The school-fees are the same with those already reported in the accounts of the neighbouring parishes. The salary is the maximum, or L. 34, 4s. 5d. The school-fees may amount to nearly L. 40, bed- sides the other emoluments commonly attached to this office, which in so small a parish do not amount to much. Besides the salary and school fees, the master has a salary of L. 3, 3s. as session- clerk, and five per cent as heritors' clerk on the money levied for roads and assessments for the poor, which amounts to about L. 3. His fees for registering births and marriages, and for certificates, scarcely amount to L. 1 per annum. The legal accommodations * Since the above was written, three Dissenting and one Roman Catholic family have come to the parish. 280 HADDINGTONSIIIKR. for the master are provided. The dwelling-house has just under- gone extensive repairs. The school-house was built a few yean ago, and is very neat, substantial, and commodious. The school is well attended. The present teacher has had upwards of 100 scholars in winter. The average attendance is about 72. But this school cannot in future be expected to attract so many child- ren, as some of the adjoining parishes are now better appointed in teachers than they were during the greater portion of the period to which the above statement refers. It is not believed that there are any above six years o.f age who cannot read more or less accu- rately, and few who cannot ^so write. The parents, 4U general, seem anxious to have their children educated according to their circumstances, although in some cases they are not kept sufficiently long at school, nor so regularly as is necessary. There is, besides the week-day school, one on the Sabbath, ex- clusively for religious instruction ; and a more advanced class taught in the minister's house on the Sabbath evenings. Libraries. — There is a small parochial library ; and for a good many years past, there has been stationed here one division of the Itinerating Libraries, established by Mr Samuel Brown of Had- dincfton. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid for the last ten years is A{'^^ nearly one in every 70. The allowance to each for a year is from L. 3, 5s. to L. 3, 18s., although in extraordinary cases more is given. The average expenditure for the last seven years has been L. 26, 8s. ; but this includes several small fees, for which there is no other provision. The income to meet this arises from the weekly col- lections, the interest of L. 120 of accumulations, the hire for a hearse and mortcloths, and an assessment averaging for the above period L. 8, 13s. 2|d. per annum. Our experience here accords with that of all the parishes where recourse has been had to assessments for any length of time, — namely, a diminishing reluctance to apply for parochial aid, and less of that honourable and amiable anxiety in children to share their gains in promoting the comfort of their aged parents, who submitted to many privations on their account, before they were able to provide for themselves. It must, however, in justice be recorded, that there are honourable and laudable exceptions to this common remark. There are some children who struggle hard, and submit cheerfully to many privations, for the sake of their aged BOLTON. 281 parents, and whom nothing but dire necessity could induce to al- low those so dear to them to become dependent on foreign aid. Besides the above provision for the poor, the late benevolent ladies, Katharine Lady Blantyre, and her sister, Miss Lindesay of Eaglescarnie, lefl L. 100 each, — or, after deducting the legacy- duty, Lfo IdO, for the relief of persons in distress, the interest to be given irrespective of the ordinary allowance. This has been hitherto expended in affording occasional relief, in supplying coals, and in paying the school fees of children whose parents stand in need of such aid. FueL — This district is abundantly, supplied with coals from Pen- ston, Pencaitland, and Huntlaw, which are within a moderate distance from every part of the parish. MiSCBLLANBOUS OBSERVATIONS. In the former Statistical Account of this parish, it is stated that there were about 150 acres in wheat, — there are now nearly 300 : That ploughmen had ordinarily L. 14 Sterling a^year, — now they have from L.2d to L.25. The rent is stated to have been Li. 1400, — it is now about double that sum ; and during the high war prices it was considerably more. Great attention has long been applied to that first of agricul- tural improvements-«-draining ; and much money has been ex- pended on it. Still, owing to the difficulty of the soil, many farms were but imperfectly drained. The new system, however, called the frequent drain system or furrow draining, bids fair to bring this operation to perfection, and to alter almost entirely the character of many farms. This system is carried on at. present with gi-eat spirit in this neighbourhood. It must be a great addition to the durability of these drains, when the tiles are covered with gravel, or small stones, which is not always done. Draion up Novefnber 1836. Revised November 1838. PARISH OF TRANENT. PRESBYTERY OF HADDINGTON, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEE DD ALE. THE REV. JOHN HENDERSON, A. M. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The etymology of the word Traneut, or, as it was an- ciently written, Travernent, is involved in some obscurity ; but we must reject, as altogether fanciful, its derivation from the circum- stance of a party of Danes having landed on the opposite coast of Fife, and being repulsed by the natives, who exultingly exclaimed, Tranent ! Tranent ! " Let them swim over." Neither are there any better grounds for attributing it to a corruption of the word " Trinity." The explanation of Chalmers* is much more satis- factory, that it took its name from its natural situation. The oldest part of the village stood along the edge of a ravine, once finely wooded, and in the ancient British language, Trev^r-^nent is said to signify a village on a ravine or river, which is exactly descriptive of its site, — the ravine or glen, through which a small stream runs, being immediately to the west of the oldest houses. Boundaries and Extent — The parish is bounded on the north, by the Frith of Forth ; on the east, by the parishes of Gladsmuir and Pencaitland ; on the south, by Ormiston and Cranstoun ; and on the west, by Inveresk and Prestonpans. Its greatest length from north-east to south-west is about 5 miles, and its extreme breadth, 3 miles. Its area is about 9 square miles, or 5464 acres, 1 rood, 16 falls imperial. Its former extent was much greater as will be noticed under its Civil History. Topographical Appearance, — The surface of the ground slopes gradually, with gentle undulations from the southern boundary of the parish, towards the sea ; — its greatest elevation being about 320 feet above the level of the Firth of Forth. The parish is * Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 523. TRANENT. 283 not now well wooded, the fine trees which formerly existed at the Palace of Seton, the towers of Elphingstone and Falside^ and the Heugh of Tranent, having in a great measure fallen to decay, or been cut down. The trees of St Germains are now in the best preservation of any in the parish, and some of them of considerable age. The extent of coast little exceeds 2 miles ; at Cockenzie, it is guarded by a dike of greenstone, running nearly east and west, and the sea recedes but a short distance from the rocks. To the east of Portseton, there is another whinstone dike, more to the north, running nearly in the* same direction, and within it, there is a considerable extent of flat sand, dry at low water, while the beach contains a beautiful mixture of fine sand and sea shells Hydrography. — There is no river in this parish, and only two or three trifling rivulets; the greatest discharge of water into the sea is from the coal level, commenced by the Earls of Winton in the seventeenth century, and subsequently carried forward, nearly two miles further, into the basin of the Tranent coaUfield, by the Messrs Cadells ; but its extension does not seem to have materially in. creased the quantity of water. Several mills are thus driven, which have the peculiar advantage that no drought during summer makes any perceptible difierence in the volume of the water, and from its high temperature, it is not subject to be frozen in winter. Geology and Mineralogy. — The parish of Tranent, through its whole extent, contains the usual coal measures, or the ordinary strata connected with the coal formation, but the regularity of the stratification is dislocated and intersected by trap or whinstone dikes, by clay dikes, and other disturbing causes, denominated " troubles" by the colliers. As in many other places, the strata seem to have been origi- nally deposited in the form of a basin, and afterwards to have been altered by the unexplained convulsions which have taken place in our globe. The principal biasin at present existing has its lowest point or trough a little to the west of the farm-house of Carla- verock, nearly a mile south of the village of Tranent ; from this the coal seams rise in all directions, and with a much more rapid inclination as they approach towards tl^e verge of the basin, which may be about half a mile in some places, and in others a mile irom the centre point, in regard to the uppermost seam, and at greater distances as to the others. Beyond this basin, to the west, north, imd east, there are other seams of coal found, but whether they 284 HADDINGTONSHIRE. are the continuation of seams lower tlian those worked at Carla- verock, or the same seams cast down and altered, has not been exactly ascertained. At Longniddry Dean, two coal seams crop out, dipping north-west, which looks as if they were connected'with the principal basin, and the limestone generally found below the coal formation does not appear till beyond the boundary of this parish. The first of the trap dikes intersecting the strata occurs to the north of Portseton ; the second at Ceckenzie, about 20 jards broad, where it forms a barrier against the sea, and runs from north-west to south-east ; the third trap dike, not quite so broad, lies about half a mile further south, running nearly east and west from the Garlcton Hills to Seton Castle and Prestongrange Har- bour, which it may probably connect with the masses of trap at Arthur's Seat, Hawkhill, and Inchkeith. About half a mile to the south of the second trap dike, there is a broad clay dike, about 140 feet in width, which throws the strata about 16 fathoms up to the south. The ground here rises more rapidly, and most of the upper seams crop out. From this line they descend to form the basin at Carlavcrock. There are, besides, many dikes and faults^ especially about Kingslaw, which it would be tedious and out of place to narrate. Such being a general description of the geological structuro of the parish, we may now give a more minute account of the coal mea- sures or strata themselves at Carlavcrock, the centre of the basin. The upper or main coal seam, between 6 and 9 feet thick, is of good quality, though rather soft, and is about 37 fathoms or 222 feet from the surface, at the lowest point in the ba- sin. The second seam, which is improperly termed the splint coal seam, is about 5 feet thick, and varies from 8 to 14 fa- thoms below the main coal seam. The third seam, or 3 feet- coal, is from 5 to 8 fathoms below the second seam, but has only been worked near the crop, where it approaches the sur« face. The fourth seam, or 4 feet coal, is still lower, being between 3 and 4 fathoms below the third seam, and is reputed to be of ex- cellent quality ; but as it has not been wrought, except near the crop, \^here the quality is inferior, its merits cannot be said to be ascer- tained. About 16 fathoms below the 4 feet coal, there is also a 5 feet coal, but it has not been worked in the parish, except at the crop to a small extent. Below these, in the Carlavcrock basin, it is probable that other seams may exist at a greater depth, but they have never hitherto been explored. A thin seam of parrot TRANENT. 285 or cannel-coaly so much esteemed for gas- works, has lately been found, and is now worked in the lands of Falside : it is supposed to be the seam of coal next to the limestone. The geologist is referred for farther and more scientific infor- mation to a very able paper, ^^ on the Mid-Lothian and East- Lothian coal-fields," by David Milne, Esq. recently published in the 14th Vol. Part L of the Transactions of the Royal Society of Edinburgh, — where the learned author has, with admirable indus-^ try, brought together a great mass of facts, furnished by practical men, and illustrates the important conclusions he has drawn from them by valuable plans and sections. From the seams of coal cropping out, or coming to the surface^ in many places round Tranent, there can be no doubt that this in- valuable mineral must have been known to the earUest inhabitants of the district, and we are therefore not surprised to find written evidence of coal having been wrought here as early as in'any other place. Chalmers, in his Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 400, notices a grant by Seyer de Quincy, Lord of the manor of Tranent, to the monks of Newbattle, about the year 1202, of a coal-pit and quarry on their lands of Preston, which then formed part of the parish of Tranent, and, from the cropping out of the seams of coal, must probably have been situated in part of the present parish of Tranent. From the thirteenth centurv downwards, we have abundant evidence from numerous charters, of the working of coal in the neighbourhood of Tranent, and in the middle of the sixteenth century, (1547), the workings seem to haveextendeda considerable distance underground, as Patten, the graphic narrator of Protector Somerset's invasion of Scotland, gives an account of many inhabitants of the district taking refuge in the coal-pits a few days before the disastrous battle of Pinkie. The English, finding it impossible to dislodge them, closed up the pits which gave air to the workings, and, placing fires at the entrance, endeavoured either to drive them out by other apertures, or to sufibcate the miserable creatures within ; and the narrator coolly remarks, ^' forasmuch as we found not that they dyd the tone, we thought it for certain thei wear sure of the tOQ- ther : wee had doon that we came for, and so lefte them."* At this period, the mode of relieving the coal workings from water, was by what was called ^^ damming and laving," that is, having followed the seam of coal as far as they could for water, * The Expedicion into Scotlande of kdwird Duke of Somerset, by W. Patten, Lon.ioner, p.i;^e -14. Published in Fnignients of Scottish Ilibtury. HADDINGTON. T 28G HADDINGTONSHIRE. they made a dam or bank, rising above the level of the orifice, or of a ditch cut from it ; and by laving the water over this bank, it gradually escaped from the mouth of the working. A series of these dams could be made one after another, and thus the work- ings, with considerable labour, freed from water ; but this mode must have been very hazardous, as any injury to a dam would allow the water to flow back on the lower workings, while no considerable growth of water could be overcome. In the course of time, a much more efficient mode of draining coal-works by day-levels was introduced ; but we|are ignorant of the precise date at which they were commenced. The day-level is a mine carried forward from the bed of a stream, or the lowest ground that can be found, directly into the heart of the strata, without fol- lowing the seams of coal. This mine, of course, can be made the means of draining all the coal strata lying above it, and if the *^ level" or water-course be kept clear, effectually relieves the workings from water. The family of Seyton having obtained a grant of the lands of Tranent from Robert the Bruce, for their attachment to his cause, seem to have devoted much attention to their coal-workings ; and from the preface to " Satan's Invisible World," by Sinclair, we learn, that the Earl of Winton of that day had run free levels, for several miles below ground, to drain his coal-works, and had ex« cited the admiration of the writer, by ^^ cutting impregnable rocks with more difficulty than Hannibal cutted the Alps," by *^ deep pits and air-holes" and ^* floods of water running through the labyrinths for several miles." This level, commenced probably about the middle of the seven- teenth century, still assists in draining the coal, but it has been extended nearly two miles further than the Earls of Winton car- ried it, and now reaches the heart of the coal-field. Since the ap- plication of the power of steam, this mode of draining coal-works has of course been rendered less essential ; but still, where the in- clination of the surface admits, it is the most convenient mode of relieving the strata above it, and for those below, it is only required to raise the water to the mine in place of to the surface. In ad- dition to the main level, which runs in a southerly direction, there were two other levels made in former times, the Heugh level, a branch of the main level, and the Bankton level, which discharges, at the suriace, near the mansion-house of Bankton. The only other improvement in regard to coal- works which it is TRANENT. 287 incumbent on us to notice, is in the carriage of the coaL In older times, the coals were almost invariably carried on horseback, as the state of the roads afforded little &cility to wheeled carriages. In 1 7 1 9, after the attamder of the Earl of Winton, the York-Build- ings Company of London purchased many of the forfeited estates, and they seem to have begun without delay to introduce some of the southern improvements. A tram-road or wooden waggon way was formed from their coal-works near Tranent to the harbour of Port Seton, in the year 1722, by which the coals were conveyed to the salt-pans and shipping : this seems to have been the first ap- proximation to the principle of railways, which in our own day are effecting such changes on the country, as well as on the convey- ance of passengers and goods. This old wooden waggon way, (each waggon being drawn by one horse, and conveying two tons of coal,) was continued till 1815, when an iron railway was substituted in its place by the Messrs Cadells. The mode of raising coals where the seam lay within a few fa- thoms of the surface, was formerly by means of women called ** bear- ers," who carried about 1^ cwt. on their backs, and ascended the pit by a bad wooden stair. In the deeperpits, the coals were carried to the bottom of the shaft by women, and then raised in wooden tubs by means of a <* giri^ moved by horses. This mode of raising the coal still continues, except where a gig or small steam engine is substituted, which performs the work with more regularity and speed ; below ground also, where the inclination of the coal seam ad- mits of it, the coals are now frequently drawn by horses on iron railways, or pushed forwards by men or boys, who are called *♦ putters." In the coal-workings of this parish, there is fortunately no fire damp, which causes such dreadful accidents. Foul air often oc- curs in certain states of the atmosphere, or where the ventilation is incomplete ; but this never requires the precaution of Sir Humphry Davy's lamp, and the extinction of the light, with oppression on the lungs, are sufiicient warnings for the miner to retire. In surveying the coal-field in the parish of Tranent, it is diffi- cult to imagine that it has been so long wrought,— soiarge a quan- tity taken from it, and still so much of the principal seams remain- ing. In the Cess-roll of the county of Haddington for the year 1653, the Earl of Winton's yearly land rent in the parish of Tra- nent is estimated at L.1 1,591, 18s. 4d., while his casual rent, which must have been derived in a great measure form coal, is rat- 2HH IIADDINGTONSHIUE. ed SO liicrli as L. 3383, 6s. 8d. At the time of the purchase of the Winton estates in 1719 by the York- Buildings Company, the coal and salt-works yielded above L. 1000 per annum. According to the former Statistical Account of the parish, the produce of El- phingstone Colliery in 1790, was 6053 tons, 15 cwt.; in 17919 it was 8348 tons 10 cwt. At present, the produce of the different coal- works of Tranent, Elphingstone, Birsley, and St Grermains, must be about 60,000 tons annually, a large proportion of which is ship- ped at the new harbour at Cockenzie, and a considerable quanti- ty t^x ported to foreign parts. Besides the consumption of coal for ordinary purposes, a num- ber of persons have long been employed in this parish, in con- verting coal into cinders or coke for malting or drying grain. The process of making cinders, as they are here called, is first to form a large fire, and when the mass is completely ignited, and the smoke driven off, the fire is then covered up and extinguished, leaving the purified cinders in a fit state for the maltster. An improved mode has lately been adopted in other parts of the country for forming coke, by burning the coal in small furnaces where a small por- tion of air is admitted, and the mass is more completely fused; but this improvement has noL been hith'Jito adopted in this parish. From what is above stated of the coal measures existing through- out the parish, it will be inferred, that freestone is generally to be found at a moderate depth. In several places, quarries producing sandstone well suited for building have been opened, though the quality near the surface is rather soft. The whinstone or trap dike, intersecting the parish about half a mile from the sea, affords excellent stone for the roads, and has been wrought in various places, but it is much inferior for that purpose to the whinstone obtained from the Garleton Hills, which, on being pulverized, becomes a dry sand, while the Tranent whin- stone becomes mud. This superiority has induced those having the charge of the great post-road to bring the materials for its repair from a quarry behind Huntingdon, six miles to the east- ward, although the carriage of it is thus greatly lengthened. Hitherto, no other mineral strata or veins have been discovered. Near the trap dike at Cockenzie, some faint traces of ironstone are visible, but of no value. When excavating the sandstone to form the new harbour at Cockenzie, organic remains of fossil trees were found, and at Tranent there are abundant specimens of plants THAN K NT. 289 of the Fern tribe, in perfect preservation, in the roof of the coal seams, nearly in contact with the sandstone. Soil, — There is much diversity of soil in this parish, from the sandy links, which extend along the sea coast, to the old moor of Tranent, part of which was only reclaimed thirty years ago. In the immediate neighbourhood of the sea, the land is very light and sandy, though much of it has been greatly improved of late yearsi Immediately to the south of the Links, is a belt of excellent land of loamy quality, about half a mile broad ; there then intervenes, from Bankton to Rigganhead, a morass from 15 to 20 feet deep to the subsoil, but of late years this has been much improved. Round the village of Tranent, the land is of rich loamy quality, with the exception of the old moor to the east of the town, which is clayey, but has of late been greatly improved by draining. In the upper districts of the parish, towards Elphingstone and Falside, the land is of good quality. There is no gravelly soil in the parish. Zoology. — There are no rare animals in the parish, nor is it re- markable for breeding any species of cattle of peculiar quality, the attention of the farmers having been chiefly given to the raising of wheat and other grain. A quantity of fish is brought into the village of Cockenzie from the Frith of Forth as well as the German Ocean ; but the neigh- bouring coast is chiefly remarkable for the fineness of the oysters, as well as the crabs and lobsters, which are caught in great abund- ance during the season ; and it is a curious fact, that two years ago an untouched bed of oysters was discovered near Portseton, which, for a considerable time, yielded that shell-fish of a size and quality rarely obtained. The ordinary fish caught by the villagers are, the cod, haddock, flounder, and whiting, not unfrequently the sble and the mackerel, and more rarely the skate, halibut, &c. Close to the coast, the prevailing west winds, from the sea and the sandy soil, prevent the growth of trees ; but at a short distance, where the soil becomes deeper, all kinds of forest trees appear to thrive remarkably well, except the fir-tribe. The soil iseem? most, congenial to the plane, the elm, and the oak. II. — Civil History. The parish of Tranent was formerly of much greater extent, em-. bracing the whole of the present parish of Prestonpans, as well as considerable parts of the parishes of Pencaitland and Gladsmuir, and the old parish of Seton was annexed to it after the Reforma- 290 HADDINGTONSHIRE. I tion. The parish of Prestonpans was disjoined from it in 1606, on a new church being built by Mr John Davidson, a very eminent person, then minister of the district : and Hamilton of Ptreston provided the glebe. ♦ The lands of Winton were also disjoined from the parish of Tranent in 1649, but in 1681 they were reunited to Tranent, and in 1715, after the forfeiture of the Winton fiunily, they were final- ly annexed to Pencaitland. -f* In 1695, the north-east part of the parish of Tranent was an^ nexed to the new parish of Gladsmuir, which was formed from por- tions of the parishes of Aberlady, Haddington, and Tranent Till the commencement of last century, the lands of this pa»- rish were almost entirely in the possession of one or two distin* guished families. The most ancient family in this district seems to have been that of Saytun or Seton, who obtained a charter of lands in East Lo- thian from David L who began his reign in 1 124. In the reign of William the Lion, who ascended the throne in 1165, they ob- tained a charter of the lands of Seton, Winton, and Winchbui]gfa. Another distinguished nobleman of this period was Robert da Quincy, a Northamptonshire baron, who acquired the extensive manor of Tranent from William the Lion, and was made his Jus- ticiary. His large estates afterwards came into the possession of his grand-daughters, three co-heiresses, and their husbands having espoused the cause of Edward IL, their lands were forfeited on the success of Robert the Bruce, who conferred them on his nephew^ Alexander de Seton. This family became one of the most influen- tial and opulent in Scotland, and were connected by marriage with all the principal families in the country. The fieunilies of Gordon and Eglinton were in fact Sctons, the heiresses of these houses hav- ing married younger sons of the Seton family. They became Lords Seton in the reign of James L, and in 1600 were elevated to the rank of Earls of Wintoun. They were always opposed to the Refor- mation, and, after possessing property in the parish of Tranent for 600 years, they were deprived of it by forfeiture in 1715, from their devoted attachment to the Stuart family. At this period, the Win- ton estates, along with many of the other forfeited lands, were pur- chased by the York- Buildings Company, and after their bankruptcy were sold in 1779, when they were acquired by various individuals, * Chalmers* Caledonia, ii. 525, and Thomson's Act. Pari. 18 Pari. Jas. VI. t Ibid. ii. 520, und Thomson's Act. Pari. TRANENT. 291 The lands of Elphingstone were held feu of the Winton family, and in the fifteenth century belonged to the family of Johnstone. About the middle of the sixteenth century, they were acquired by the Primroses of Carrington, ancestors of the Earls of Rosebery^ and are now possessed by Mr Callander and Mr Elphinstone. Land-otcners. — The principal land-owners, according to their valuations in the parish at present, are Mr Cadell of Tranent ; the Earl of Wemyss ; Sir George Grant Suttie, Bart ; Mr Bum Callander ; Mr Hunter ; Mr Elphinstone ; Colonel Macdowall ; Mr Anderson of St Grermains, and Mr Fowler. Parochial Regigters. — The parochial registers, of late years, have been very regularly kept, and exist from 1615 : but the first fifty years are very imperfect; and from 1688 to 1720, the registers are missing, and appear to have been lent and not returned. Antiquities. — There are no very remarkable antiquities in this ( parish. A Druidical circle of stones formerly existed on the west } side of Longniddry Dean, near the sea; but in the course of mak- ing some agricultural improvements it was unceremoniously de« stroyed. The old collegiate church of Seton is the finest monument of antiquity in the parish, and is an interesting specimen of Gothic ar- chitecture, built in good taste. The date of the oldest part is un- certain, but it must have been previous to the year 1390, for in the beginning of the reigu of Robert III. Catherine Sinclair of Her- manston, the widow of Lord William Seton, ** biggit ane yle on the south syd of the paroche kirk of Seytoun of fine astler ; pendit and theiket it wyth stane, wyth ane sepulture thairin quhidr sche lyis, and foundit ane preist to serve thair perpetuallie.''* Consi- derable additions were subsequently made to this church by the Se« ton family, many of whom expended large sums in decorating the mausoleum of their race, and there still exist several monumentSy which appear at one time to have been very richly ornamented. In 1544, the church was much destroyed by the English, during the invasion of the Earl of Hertford, who ^ tuk away the bellis and or« ganis, and other tursable (moveable) thingis, and pat thame in thair schippis, and brint the tymber-wark within the said kirk/'f It afterwards suffered severely in succeeding revolutions ; but it is pleasing to find that this interesting and beautiful remain is now * Maitland*8 History of the House of Seytoun, continued by Viscount Kingstoni printed by the Bannatyne Club, r* ^* t Ibid. p. 43. ) \ 2i)2 HADDINCJTONSHIRE. carefully preserved by the present proprietor, the Earl of Wemvss. The old Palace of Seton, with its fine gardens and terrace-walks, which the inonarchs of Scotland and their court in former times delighted to visit, are now no more, the remains of the former having been pulled down by a late proprietor, to build a modem and not very elegant mansion, while the policy and walks haTe suiTe'red the necessary consequence of being detached from the abode of luxury and wealth. When King James VI. was on his way to England to take possession of the throne on the 4th April 1603, on his train approaching Seton, he met the funeral of the first Earl of Winton, one of the most faithful adherents of his un- fortunate mother ; the King halted his retinue, and sat down on the south-west turret at the corner of the garden, which is still quite entire, and adjoining the present road, till the funeral of this old supporter of his family moved past. The old tower or fortalice of Falsvde is also of considerable an- tiquity. It was formerly in the possession of the Winton family, and probably given off to a junior branch. It offered some re- sistance to the army of Protector Somerset on the morning of the battle of Pinky in 1547, and was then burnt ; but the strength of the mason-work, the tower being arched at the first story, as well as on the top of the building, prevented entire destruction. Additions of a later date, but of a less massive structure, appear subsequently to have been made, and, as very frequently happened, the family of Fawside of that ilk seem to have removed to a more modem mansion when peaceable times arrived, at the union of the crowns, — as there now exists in the immediate vicinity of the old castle, a house wttli the initials L F., L L. above one of the windows, and the date 1618» In the stair of the oldest part of the castle, is a curious place of concealment, and the old dovecot at a short distance has another ' small recess, with an ancient grated door. The view of the Frith of Forth and the waving line of sea coast from this spot, with the rich and varied fields of Mid-Lothian stretched beneath, is per- haps one of the finest that can be found in the vicinity. This parish has been the scene ^f some interesting historical events in former times. Between Tranent and Falsyde, a despe- rate engagement took place with the Scotch and English caval- ry, the day before the battle of Pinky in 1647, when the Scots were overpowered, and lost 1800 men, which probably contributed in no slight degree to the disastrous result on the next day, the a TRANENT. 293 10th of September, when 14,000 Scots are said by Patten to have been slain in the flight. The scene of the battle of Preston on 21st September 1745 lies about half a-mile to the north of the church of Tranent The King's army, amounting to about 3000, was drawn up nearly parallel to, and a little to the east of the present line of railway from the coal* pits to Cockenzie. The excellent Colonel Gardiner was stationed with his cavalry on the right flank, and was killed when endea-* vouring to rally a small body of infantry near the west end of the village now called Meadow Mill, but which was not in existence at the period of the battle. Colonel Gardiner thus met an ho- nourable death within a quarter of a mile of Bank ton, his own resi- dence. His servant was unable to convey him thither, as the flight was in that direction ; but it is said, having borrowed clothes from the miller at the neighbouring mill, he conveyed his dying master to the manse at Tranent, where he soon afler expired, and was buried in the west end of the 'Church ; but no tablet marks the grave of this gallant soldier and admirable Christian. The slain were buried near a farm-iiouse called Thorntree Mains, erected since the battle ; and towards the close of last century, in making some drains to the north-east of the farm- steading, the work- men came upon the bodies, when the clothes were said to be so en- tire, that they could distinguish between the royalists and the re- bels. The military chest of the royal army was found at the house of Cockenzie, and was there divided by the unfortunate Charles Stuart. A few coins, of the reigns of James V. and Mary, were dis- covered in 1828, while making improvements on the post road to the west of Tranent, and might probably have been concealed thereabout the time of the battle of Pinkie in 1547. One or two cannon balls have also been found in the fields near Cockenzie, which, in all likelihood, were among the few that were discharged at the disastrous battle of Preston. There is a massive square tower at Elphingstone, said to have been built about the year 1300, and a modern house was added to it in 1600, which is still inhabited, and was formerly surrounded by very fine trees, but they are now all cut down. The only mansion-house in the parish, inhabited by a proprie* tor, is St Germains, the seat of David Anderson, Esq. which had formerly been an establishment of the Knights Templars, but after 294 HADDINGTONSHIRE. their suppression was bestowed by James IV. on the King's Col- lege of Aberdeen. III. — Population. Until the middle of last century, the greater part of the popu- lation of this parish, consisting of colliers and salters^ were little better than slaves, being bound to their works for life, and after having engaged in them after the years of puberty, were not per- mitted to leave their employment, unless the trade was given up. This cruel practice was happily done away in 1775, but the evil effects of it were not so easily overcome. A class thus nurtured in bondage, enjoying little intercourse with others, and their religious instruction not much attended to, could hardly have been expected to keep pace with the civilization of the country. The vice of drunkenness spread its pernicious influence very widely among them, and though families frequently make about L. 2 per week, they rarely lay by any of their wages, and have not their dwelling* houses so comfortably furnished as the farm-servants and labouren^ who do not earn half the amount Abstract of the population of the parish of Tranent at 25th June 1821 and 1831 :— 1821. 1881. of families, • • • 786 816 emplojred in agncuUure, 180 176 in trade, 467 598 all others, • 139 42 houses inhabited, • m 614 740 building, m 2 S uninhabited, m m 16 52 males, females, m m 1?^}»*»2 1765) «^ The number of seamen at Davis' Straits, not included in the census of 1831, was 30, making the net population of the parish 3650. Ages in June 1881. Females. 255 FVom40to 50, 218 50 to 60, 174 60 to 70, 165 70 to 80, 229 80 to 90, 200 90 to 100, The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards is about 15,— of whom there are 2 having rentals between L. 2000 and L. 3000 per annum ; 2 between L. 1500 and L. 2000; 4 between L. 500 and L. 1000 ; 5 between L. 100 and L. 500 ; and 2 between L. 50 and L. 100. Males. Under 5, • 283 From 5 to 10, 266 10 to 15, 203 15 to 20, 151 20 to 80, 210 do to 40, 166 Males. Females. 145 171 110 140 91 127 86 45 12 IS 8 TRANENT. 295 Character and Habits of the People. — Among a population of colliers, it cannot be expected that the habits of the people should be cleanly : and the injurious practice of women working in the pits as bearers, (now happily on the decline with the married fe- males,) tends to render the houses of colliers most uncomfortable on their return from their labours, and to foster many evils which a neat cleanly home would go far to lessen. Colliers^ from their high wages, generally partake of the best butcher-meat, and may be said to liye well, but unfortunately they indulge very freely in ardent spirits, — that bane of our working population. From the above remarks, it is evident that the mass of the peo- ple cannot be said to be intellectual, moral, or religious. There are, however, several marked exceptions ; and it is to be hoped, that the present exertions making for the diffusion of religious know- ledge in the parish may, by the blessing of God, have a favourable effect on the character of the inhabitants. IV. — Industry. ' AffricuUure.'^The whole parish is cultivated or occasionally in tillage, with the exception of about 50 acres of links along the sea-shore, — which could not be added profitably to the cultivated land ; and with the exception also of about 100 imperial acres un- der wood, chiefly about the mansion-houses of Seton and St Ger- mains. A large common in the neighbourhood of Tranent was fi- nally divided and improved in 1804, and has since been under cul- tivation. Renin — The average rent of land to the north of the village of Tranent may be said to be from L. 3, 10s., to Li 4 per Scots acre, and to the south of Tranent, where it is poorer, about L. 1, 10s., to L. 2 per Scots acre, or one-fifth less than each of these sums per imperial acre. . The grazing of an ox may be reckoned at L. 6 per half-year. The valued rent of the parish in the county books is L. 10,781, 9s. ld« Sts, and the present real rent may be nearly L. 12,000, exclusive of minerals, which may yield about L. 4000. Wages. — The rate of, wages is from Is. 6d. to Is. 8d. per day for farm-servants, and from 2s. 6d. to 2s. 8d. for artisans. Husbandry » — The general character of the husbandry, particularly in the lower parts of the parish, and in the better parts of the higher districts, has been of the most approved and modem kind. All kinds of grain have been grown ; but perhaps the culture of wheat has been carried to too great an extent generally through the county. 2!>G IlADniNCiTONSlllKK. There is a considerable difierence in climate between tbe lower and upper parts of the parish, — the crops being a week or ten days ear- lier in the land to the north of Tranent than they are to the south, which is above 200 feet higher. Draining has been generally prac- tised with much advantage, and of late years great beneBt has arisen from the introduction of tile-draining. As an instance of the effect of draining, the land, which in 1745 separated the two armies, was described as an impassable morass, but it now bears good crops along its whole extent. Tile-draining is still in the act of being vigorously carried on, and experience every year proves more strongly the advantages to be derived from it. The ordinary duration of leases is for the period of nineteen years, and the stipulations are generally of an equitable nature between landlord and tenant. The state of the farm-buildings is generally good, and the pa- rish is, upon the whole, well enclosed with hedges and ditches, though this important part of agriculture might with advantage admit of more extension. Tlic principal improvement which has been made since the last Statistical Account, is the cultivation of all the arable part of the links near the sea, and the whole of Tranent moor. By this means, above 300 Scots acres have been brought under culture and en- closed. Quarries and Mines, — There are several sandstone quarries in the parish adapted for building, though too soft to bear long ex- posure to the atmosphere without injury. The trap dikes also, de- scribed under *^ Mineralogy," afford good materials for the roads. The extensive coal mines of the parish have already been pretty fully described under Mineralogy. It is only necessary to add, that about 800 males, 100 females and children, are generally employed at them. The mode of workingthe coal strata is that usually adopted, name* ly, '^ stoop and room," or a sufficient number of pillars of coal left to support the roof. Few horses have as yet been used, the baskets of coals being pushed by men along iron railways below ground, to the bottom of the pit, where they are raised by a horse gin or steam power. Most of the modern improvements in mining have been introduced, and of liite years some of the pits have been ^* tubbed," or cased round with cast iron segments which form a cylinder. The operation is performed thus: A " wedging crib" or circle formed of pieces of oak is laid upon the hard stratum, the TRANENT. 297 cast iron segments are then carefully placed on it, and a thin piece of fir- wood is put betwixt every joint After all the segments re- quired are built round the sides of the pit, and the whole kept down by a building of stone above, wedges are driven into the joints of the segments until the whole is made perfectly water tight ; the water being thus prevented from getting out of the porous strata and escaping down the pit. In former times, this was at- tained more rudely by casing the pit with wood; behind which, fine clay was carefully puddled. From the numerous old coal pits in the western parts of the pa- rish, and the breadth and number of the roads in that direction, it is probable that the greater part of the supply of coals for Edinburgh, was derfved from this quarter in former times. JFV*Aeric5.— ^The inhabitants of the villages of Cockenzie and Portseton, amounting to about 700, are almost wholly engaged in fishing. Their boats are all open, without any deck, but of the finest construction, and the largest class : they are suited for the more distant fishings, and are calculated to stand a very heavy sea. During the winter, the fishermen are employed for the supply of the Edinburgh and Glasgow markets, in dredging oysters opposite their village, and in catching cod, whitings, flounders, &c either within the Frith of Forth, or sometimes on the Marr, a bank thirty miles to the east of St Abb's Head. In spring, a number of the men go to the whale-fishing in the ships from the Frith of Forth, and the north of England ; in which employment, many of them have distinguished themselves as the most dexterous harpooneers. A few years ago, several of the men endured all the rigors of a Polar winter, the ships having been en- circled with ice in Baffin's Bay. Their sufferings were dreadful, but the vessels were providentially drifted along many hundred miles of coast to the open sea, — where the sailors had the joy of meeting the ships which were sent out early in the season, in order to render them assistance ; and it is remarkable that, so far from the suffer- ings of their friends having the effect of deterring any from this dangerous employment, a young man volunteered to go in one of the earliest vessels to search for his relatives, and he had the inex- pressible delight of being in the first boat that boarded the ship in which were his father and others connected with him. The con- duct of the Cockenzie sailors during their long night of alniost hope- less darkness, was most praiseworthy : they devoted a portion of 298 HADDINGTONSHIRE. ■ each day to religious exercises, and awaited with calm resignation the will of Providence. In summer, the fishermen who have not gone to the whale- fishing, proceed to Caithness in their large boats for the herring fishery, where they sell the produce of their labours to the curers. In autumn, they are again engaged in dredging oysters, and taking white fish and herrings when they appear at the mouth of the firth. There are no rents payable for the deep sea fishings, and the dues exigible for the oyster scalps are not regularly levied. The energy and enterprise of the fishermen, with no capital but their boats, (which may have descended to them from their &then^ but stand in need of constant repairs and renewals,) are the sole means of maintaining the fisheries. Manufactures. — The chief manufacture in the parish is that of salt, which has been carried on for a long period, — 12 salt^pus having been built about 1630, by George third Earl of Winton. The mode of making the salt is simply, by evaporating by means of heat the aqueous particles of the sea, in oblong iron pans, 18 feet long by 10 feet broad, and 2 feet deep. The sea water is raised into the pans by buckets, swung on a suspended pole; and the coal used is of the small description, unfit for most other purposes. A man and a boy are employed in each of the six salt-pans now in operation ; the wages of the former being according to the quan- tity of salt produced, or about 18s. per week, and of the latter 8b. per week. The female members of the family also assist in tak- ing the salt out of the pans, and carrying it to the ^* gimels** or stores. Of late, a steam engine has been erected at Cockenzie for grind- ing bones and rape cakes, brought chiefly from Germany, to be used in agriculture, which have been found peculiarly beneficial as a manure for turnips and other crops. In Portseton, also, another steam engine has lately been erected for bruising linseed and expressing oil from it. The residue is formed into cakes for feeding cattle. These employments afford a fair remuneration to the workmen, and do not seem prejudicial either to health or morals. Navigation, — The number of boats belonging to the fishermen amounts to 31, of which lO^are of about 16 tons burden, and 21 of 7 tons. There are two vessels belonging to the new harbour at Cock- TRANENT. 299 enzie, one of 120, the other of 100 toDs burden; they are em- ployed in the coasting and foreign trade. The number of vessels entering the present harbour of the Messrs Cadells during the year, is from 250 to 300, and the ton- nage about 20,000 tons. Of this, about one-sixth is from foreign ports. V. — Parochial Economt. The nearest market-towns are Haddington and Dalkeith, each about seven miles from Tranent The greater part, however, of the grain from the parish goes to Edinburgh market, ten miles dis- tant. Villages. — The villages in the parish are, — Tranent, containing upwards of 1780 inhabitants; — Ck>ckenzie and Portseton, 757; Elphingston, 250 ; Meadowmill, 150,— total, about 2937 in the villages. Means of CommunicaHofU — The means of communication to the capital are excellent, the great post road to Edinburgh passing through the parish for three miles. The other lines of turnpike roads, extending to six miles, have of late been much improved, by beiug'placed under the charge of surveyors. The total length of the turnpike roads in the parish extends to nine miles. The pa- rish roads, supported by statute labour, are far from being in an equally good state of repair. The funds amount to the small sum of L. 160 per annum, of which L. 36, 10s. is drawn by the turn- pike roads, and the balance only of L. 123, 10s. is left for expenses and the support of the parish roads, extending in length to about fifteen miles, over which many heavy carriages pass. There is a regular post to and from Edinburgh twice a-day, al- so a twopenny post to Haddington, which is a recent and a great convenience. The public carriages on the post-road are very numerous, be- ing six passing Tranent each day to Edinburgh, including the Berwick mail, — and the like number out of Edinburgh. There is also a daily coach from North Berwick, passing Cockenzie, which carries the letters to and from Prestonpans. There are no public canals or railroads at present in the parish, but the proposed line of the Great North British railroad, to commu- nicate by Berwick, Newcastle, and Durham with the great English lines, will pass through the centre of the parish, a little to the north of the Meadowmill. A private iron railway, as already noticed, has been made by the Messrs Cadells, from Cockenzie to their coal- 300 IIADDINCJTONSHIRE. works oil the south side of Tranent, the length being aboat three miles. A harbour was erected by the same gentlemen in 1835, at a natural basin on the west side of the village of Cockenzie, for the purpose of shippuig coal. The cost amounted to about L. 6000, and the work was done in the most substantial manner, from a plan by Mr Robert Stevenson, civil-engineer. This harbour has 16 feet depth of water in spring tides, and 10 in neap tides ; it is easy of access, and aflfords complete shelter to vessels ; while, dur* ing stormy weather, it is most advantageous to the^fishermen, who are thus enabled to run for a place of safety, instead of the exposed beach, formerly their only refuge. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church has been rebuilt since the last Statistical Account, a new one having been erected in 1 800. The situation is sufficiently convenient for the greater part of the population, the distance from the extremities of the parish be- ing at no place more than two miles and a-half. But the sittings having been divided amongst the heritors according to their valued rents, the great proportion of the inhabitants of the villages bad no legal right to church accommodation. The only mortifications belonging to the parish are, the interest of L. 100, left by Lord Bankton, and L. 2 from Dr Schaw's Hospital at Preston. The church contains 888 sittings, of which about 20 are free. The manse was built in 1781, but has undergone several additions and repairs. The extent of the glebe is about six acres Scots, with about an acre of moorland : and it may be valued at about L. 4 per Scots acre. The augmentation granted in 1831 raised the stipend to 18 chalders of victual, but the teinds being exhausted, the amount allocated was 47 bolls, 1 firlot, 3 pecksj 0^ hppies of wheat; 81 bolls, 1 firlot, 1 peck, 3/g lippies of bear; 149 bolls, 1 firlot, 2 pecks, IjI lippies of oats; L. 59, 16s. 8d. Scots money ; which at the fiars prices of that year amounted to L. 349, 6s. lOjd. Ster- ling, being a deficiency of the modified stipend to the extent of L.21, 17s. IJd. In the village of Cockenzie, a new church was, in 1838, completed by private subscription, aided by the General Assembly's Church Extension Committee; by the East Ix)thian Church Extension So- ciety, and by L. 150 raised by the Rev. A. Fornian of Innerwick. It contains 450 sittings, and is built so as to admit of galleries being afterwards added. The total expense of this church was about TRANENT. 301 L.600. The stipend en^^ed to be paid to the minister, the Rev. Archibald^ Loriiner, is L. 80 per annum, secured by a bond granted by several individuals who are interested in the welfare of the district The seat-rents, if fully let, with the collections, may probably amount to about L. 60 per annum ; but this is just one of the cases which so strongly proves the necessity of a na- tional endowment, — the fishermen, unwilling to move from the coast to a church distant from their boats, were so anxious for the minis- *trations of a clergyman at their own homes, that they subscribed to the utmost extent of their means ; they further showed their in- terest in the Church by delaying to proceed to the northern her- ring fishery for several days, though the wind was favourable and the season advanced, in order that they might be present at the opening of their place of worship ; — and yet with all this anxiety to promote the object, they were utterly unable of themselves to fur- nish even a small portion of the funds for building the church or supporting the minister. There is one Dissenting chapel in Tranent, lately rebuilt, be- longing to the United Associate Synod. The minister, the Rev. Wil- liam Parlane, A. M., it is believed, is paid in the usual way from the seat^rents and collections; but the amount of stipend is not known. The total population of the parish, as formerly mentioned, is 3650 ; of this number about 2980 are attached to the Establish- ed Church, leaving about 640 belonging to all other religious de- nominations. The attendance on the parish church is not particularly regular. The average number of communicants at the Established Church is about 600. Two missionaries, one supported by the friends of the Esta- blishment, the other by the Dissenters, have lately commenced to labour among the population of Tranent, and are well received by the people. There are two Bible and Missionary Societies, one connected with the Established, the other with the Dissenting congregation. The church collections for the poor are very small, not exceed- ing Li 15 per annum, in consequence of the large assessment. The collections for religious and charitable objects may be about L. 13 per annum. Education. — The total number of schools in the parish i$ seven ; the paroehial school in Tranent, the average number attending being 100 ; a free school at Stiell's Hospital, endowed, attended HADDINGTON. V 302 HADDINGTONSHIRE. by about 140 children ; three schools in the village of Tranent, unendowed ; one in Elphingstone ; and one in Cockenzie, chiefly supported by private subscription. The ordinary branches, English, writing, and geography, are taught in all the schools; and in the parochial school such pupik as doiro it are also instructed in French, Latin, land-measuring and architectural drawing. The salary of the parochial school- master is the maximum/ L. 34, 6s. 7d., and his school fees gene- rally amount to about L. 80 i>er annum. The parish schoolmastef is furnished with a good house and garden. Library. — There is a subscription library in Tranent Char italic and other Institutions. — The only hospital in the parish is that endowed by the late George Stiell, smith and builder in Edinburgh, a native of Tranent, who left property yielding about L.900 per annum, for the education of a few boys and girls as inmates, and a free day school, in which are educated about 140 children. The Lord Justice- Clerk, the Sheriff of the county, and the minister of the parish, are governors and directors tx offieiis; and David Anderson, Esq. of St Germains, and John Gray, Esq. solicitor-at-law, Edinburgh, trustees for life. This institution h tion were more abundant, and the passion for ardent spirits less powerful than it is, there would be more appropriate themes for the exercise of a despondent mind than the future amelioration of our population. Violations of the Lord's day are ncn so cus- tomary here as they once were. A more enlightened regard to the sacred behests of scriptural principle is on the increase ; and we live in the hope of our posterity being at least no worse than their progenitors. IV. — Industry. Affriculture. — As the arable lands in the parish are very limited in their extent, and the writer of this Account is far from being intelligent regarding either the practices or profits of agriculture, he deems it no great departure from a modest prudence, to refer to the former Statistical Report, in which there is no lack of learn- ing on that head. It is believed that the present agriculturists in the parish have kept up with the recent improvements in their art. Fisheries. — At the proper season of the year, the fishery of oys- ters forms the principal occupation of a large number of our sea- faring men. Long before dawn, in the bleakest season of the year, their dredging song may be heard afar off, and, except when the wind is very turbulent, their music, which is not disagreeable, ap- pears to be an accompaniment of labours that are by no means un- successful. A constant trade is maintained by means of large boats, capable of containing 25,000 or 30,000 oysters, with Newcastle, Shields, and Hartlepool. Of the individuals engaged in this fishery, it may be safely averred, that if their expenditure were regulated by a due regard to their incomes, many would be far from being poor, and not a few would have the comfort of being passing rich on L. 40 a-year. Trade. — The trade of Prestonpans was formerly of very con- siderable extent ; and among the privileges of the barony was a free harbour, with right of levying dues and customs to the same extent as those exigible at Leith, or any other port of the kingdom. Manufactures. — During a long period, a large number of per- sons in the parish were regularly employed in the manufacture of stoneware, tiles, bricks, &c Of late, however, all the operations PRESTONPANS. 313 of potting, with the exception of two small works for brown ware, have been suspended, to the serious disadvantage of numerous and manifold interests. In the immediate neighbourhood of Preston- grange colliery, drain tiles are made. There is a manufactory of soap, in which several hands are con- stantly employed by Mr Paterson, whose business appears to be> most deservedly, thriving. In the salt-pans of Mr William Alexander, a very large quan- tity of that most necessary article of commerce is annually manu- factured. He imports his rock salt from the neighbourhood of Liverpool, and is enabled to produce a commodity of superior ex- cellence. It is equally deserving of remark and extensive imita- tion, that Mr Alexander, desirous of advancing the general inte- rests of his workmen, has, during the last twelvemonths, paid their wages on Friday instead of Saturday ; and the result distinctly proves that neither his servants nor himself have had any reason to regret the change. It has evidently been followed by conse- quences so morally important, as to encourage other masters to adopt a similar plan. The condition of families is deeply affect- ed by the pay-day. The brewery of Mr Fowler has long been signalized by the high character of its ales. There is perhaps no similar manufactory in Scotland that has for so long a period sustained its well-earned ce- lebrity. Nor is it probable, that, in Mr Hislop's management, it will be less famous in future than it has been in the past. V. — Parochial Economy. The common necessaries of life are procured in the village of Prestonpans. It is believed* that the greater part of the grain raised in the parish is sent to Edinburgh and sold there. Means of Communication. — There is a carrier to Edinburgh twice a week from the parish. There is also daily communication by the North Berwick coach; and the several carriers from the east pass through the village, on their way to town. Ecclesiastical State. — The church was built in 1774.* It af- fords accommodation for 750 persons, and, though in no way dis- tinguished either by elegance of furniture or beauty of aspect, it is, in comfort, inferior to none m the county. It is now by far * Since the Revolution, the following ministers have served the cure of this pa- rish :— <.Mr John Moncrieff, Mr George Andrews, Mr Robert Horsburgh, (great- great-grandfather of the present incumbent,) Mr William Carlyle, Mr Matthew Reid, Mr William Roy, Dr Joseph M'Cormick, Mr John Trotter, Dr Peter Prim- rose, and William Bruce Cunningham. 314 HADDINGTONSHIUE. too small for the population, and, indeed, at the period of its ori- ginal erection, it must have been deficient. It is capable of being both heated and licrhted, — advantages the value of which are duly felt and appreciated by the parishioners. The extent of the glebe is 6 acres. The stipend is 16 chalders, and above L. 17 in money, in which the allowance for communion elements is included. The manse was put into a most comfortable state of repair in 1834. It would be a happy condition for the families of ministers, in gene- ral, if the same consideration for their comfort were displayed by heritors, as those of this parish have all along manifested for the personal and domestic comfort of its incumbent. Almost all the population adhere to the Established Church, and, in so far as any man has an opportunity of knowing the con- dition and feelings of the people of a parish so poor as this is, he will not be slow to condemn Voluntaryism as utterly inadequate to the supply of their spiritual wants. The Dissenters of all deno- minations and ages amount to 100 individuals. Education, — Besides the parochial and infant schools, the latter of which is on the Lowland Scheme of the General Assembly's Committee, there are four schools in the parish. One of these has been commenced lately under the patronage of Sir George Grant Suttie, Bart. As it is planted in what is rather a necessitous dis- trict, and receives most valuable assistance from its patron, it is likely to be well attended, and to prove exceedingly usefiil. The teacher appears to be diligent in his work, and is deserving of all encouragement. The other three schools are taught on the teachers' own adventure alone. The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum salary : and his fees may amount to L. 40 a year. He is also session and heritors' clerk. The school is taught by an cissistant and successor. A Sabbath school has been taught in the parish church for several years. Nearly 200 children attend. It is taught by one of the elders, the parochial schoolmaster, and se- veral members of the church. Friendly Societies, — At one period, this parish had more than enough of such institutions. The only survivors now are the Carters', Gardeners', several yearly societies, and the Sailors' Incorpora- tion. The funds belonging to the last-mentioned exceed L. 1200, and hitherto have been managed with considerable skill and pni- dence. It is much to be feared that, except the yearly societies and the Sailors, the others are not based on those principles which can insure their continuance or prosperity. PRESTONPANS. 315 Poor and Parochial Funds. — The annual assessment is about L. 300, — a sum which, being required for a population of 2500 souls, is a painful evidence of the extent and depth of the pau- perism. The number of poor on the roll is 80. To a very great extent it may be traced to the sale of ardent spirits on the Sab* bath, and the many evil habits that ensue from that vicious prac- tice. Within the last month, the third lunatic within the last two years has been cast upon the poor's funds ; and in each of these lamentable cases, the origin is to be referred to the uncommon faci- lities of excessive d.rinking afforded on the Lord's day by the neces- sary cessation of toil, the enjoyment of wages, (which are too ge- nerally paid on the Saturday night,) and the open sale of intoxi- cating liquors at all hours ou the Sabbath day. Notwithstanding the very onerous assessment which is annually born by heritors and feuars, there are few parishes in Scotland where so much is done in a voluntary way for the poor and destitute of their neigh- hood. The average collections for several years have amounted to about 12s. each Sabbath, — a sum which, as there are few resident heritors in the parish, will cast into the shade the volun- tary collections of wealthier and more important districts^ The average yearly amount of collection is L. 31. No spectacle can be more gratifying to the mind of the friends of the poor, than the large aniount of copper-money which is weekly cast into the charity-plates. It is highly expressive of the feelings of a class who cannot boast of much gold or silver, — and may dictate a pro- fitable lesson to many who have been much more highly favoured with the good things of this life. A distribution of coals, provid- ed by a public subscription, is annually made under the auspices of Mr Paterson, whose services to the poor are not more unwoca- ried than they are disinterested, — while, with equal regularity and constancy, the members of many a poor and needy household are cheered and comforted by the generous offices of Sir George and Lady Harriet Suttie, whose aid, amid the rigours of winter, is never solicited in vain. Inns and Alehouses, — There are 24 houses in the parish in which ardent spirits are legally sold ; of these 7 are public-houses. As may be inferred from what has been already remarked regarding a main cause of the vast pauperism, by which both the property and in- dustry of the parish are so severely oppressed, an enormous quan- tity of inebriating liquors were at one period sold on the Sabbath. The scenes connected with this fearful abuse were of the most :n() HADDINCiTOXSHIRK. alTecting and disgusting description. At a very early hour in the morning, after a night of drunkenness and riot, mothers of faini« lies might be seen hurrying with steps as rapid as if their immor- tal destinies depended on their speed, with vessels containing gallons of spirits, but partially, if at all concealed. At a later hour, wither- ed-looking children, scarcely escaped from the bonds of help- less infancy, might be witnessed passing to and fro amid the severities of the wintry storm, in fearful ministry to the cruel and remorseless passions of their benighted and ruined parents. From the closing hours of the preceding evening, until the midnight darkness of the day of God, the peace of the community was ever at stake. The coarse shout of brutal merriment, — the vicious and vulgar oath, — the shriek of fear bursting from woman's lips, — the appalling sounds of injury and violence, — all these might be heard issuing from dwellings, where not only men and women, but little children, would be found swelling with hoarse notes the confused din and disturbance. A proposal for discontinuing the sale of spirits on the Lord's day having been made, it was, upon the whole, most favourably ceived by the dealers ; who entered unanimously into a formal solution against the practice. This resolution is now universally adhered to ; and its effects have been most beneficial. Jpril 1839. PARISH OF NORTH BERWICK. PRESBYTERY OF HADDINGTON, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALB. THE REV. ROBERT BALFOUR GRAHAM, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Various etymologies are given of the name. One only appears unexceptionable. Jber is well known to signify the termination or mouth of a river, and u?icA, a town; hence the name *Berwick^ dropping the initial letter which is retained in Aberdeen, Abernethy, Aberdour, Aberbrothic, &c This is pre- cisely descriptive of the situation of the town of North Ber- wick, on a corner or an angle of land at the mouth of the river or Frith of Forth. It is called North Berwick, evidently to distin- guish it from South Berwick, so designated in the charters of the twelfth, thirteenth, and fourteenth centuries ; which was also ori- ginally a Scotch town, though now an English one, and now styl- ed Berwick-upon-Tweed. One other etymology may be cited. Chalmers, in his Caledonia^ states, that in those early charters, and in the Northumbrian topography, the orthography of the name is Dar-wic or Baretoic : the bare or naked village ; appropriate, as he conceives, to the site of North Berwick, which, according to his representation, stands on the naked shore of the Forth. Extent — Boundaries, — The parish consists of a royal burgh and a landward district, and extends 3 miles from west to east, and upwards of 2^ miles from north to south. It is bounded on th^ north by the Frith of Forth ; on the south, by the parishes of Whitekirk and Prestonkirk ; on the west, by the parish of Dirleton ; and on the east, partly by the Frith of Forth, and partly by Auld- hame, an ancient parish now united with the conjoined parishes of Whitekirk and Tynninghame. Mountains. — There is a picturesque range of trap rocks from east to west, at Balgone and Rockville, about two miles south from the town, partly wooded and partly bare, of great beauty ; a deep pass through which line, forming th^ public road to Linton, HADDINGTON. X 31^ nADDINOTONSmilE. covered with copse, and studded sideway with Httle perennial springs, is an unique picture of choice Highland scenery. North Berwick Law^ half a mile south from the town, is a very beautiful conical hill, about 940 feet above the level of the sea, standing on an elevated plain, and of comparatively easy ascent. The various views in ascending, and especially from the summit of the hill, inland and seaward, are of the most delighting and com- manding character. The ruins on the top are only of modem date, and were the residence of the party — (a naval officer and three assistants,) in charge of the signal station established there- on during the late war, and dismantled on the return of peace. The erections are all unroofed, and yearlyaccumulating the usual interest and tokens of time and tempest. The Law is of consider- able extent, fully 70 acres, and is used for the pasture of sheep. It is wooded near the base to the east, whence there is an ascent of the mountain by a prepared zig-zag path, called from its form the M'JValk. An enclosed green meadow, enriched with venerable elm trees, surrounds it on the south and west On the south side of the hill is a quarry of excellent reddish stone, from which the town has principally been built Links, — Links extend along the shore. Those to the west of the town are attached to the Abbey portion of the barony of North Ber- wick, and are pastured by the cows of the inhabitants of the fVeii^ gatCy the portion of the town beyond the bounds of the royalty. Those to the east of the town are the property of the town, a common for the burgesses, whose cows grsize along, terminating with the public washing*house and bleaching green, and bounded by Mill-burn, the only stream in the parish. It is proposed to feu the southern and elevated portion of the eastern links for vil- las, according to a plan which is now being arranged ; a scheme which promises to be an essential improvement to the appearance and interests of North Berwick. Coast — The coast, very rocky, full of inequalities and indentures, may be stated to be of about three miles and a-half in extent, £EU»d on the west by the greenstone island of Craigleith, and on the east by the Bass. A very beautiful semicircular bay lies immediately to the west of the harbour reaching to Point Garry ; a smaller is to the east of the town at the foot of the Rhodes farm ; and a third and larger, much admired, named Canty Bay, lies about three miles cast of the town, directly opposite to the Bass, which is the resi- dence of the tenant of the Bass, and his assistants, where boats NORTH BERWICK. 319 are constantly kept for the conveyance of visitors to the far-famed rock. The shore to the west is somewhat flat and sandy, but to the east it is generally high and rocky, with several rugged project- ing headlands, terminating north-east with the extensive lofty pre- cipice on which stand the venerable and classic ruins of Tantallan Castle. Directly opposite to the town of North Berwick, a mile from the shore, is an island, about a mile in circumference, called Craigleith. It is a bare barren rock, inhabited only by rabbits and sea-fowl. The jack-daws are in immense numbers, and it is a favourite residence of the Tommy-norrie^ alias the Coultemeh or puffin. Th » town- council had resolved,lnany years ago, in pecuniary difficulties, to sell this island, and it was intended to dispose of it by lottery. Arrange- ments were gone into accordingly ; but it was discovered that such a transaction would have been illegal ; and in 1814 it was sold to Sir Hew Dalrymple, £art. for L. 400. It is now conjoined with the North Berwick barony. Steamers and other vessels regularly pass in the channel between the island and North Berwick. Oc- casionally in storms from the north-east or east, the tremendous dashing and breaking of the mighty waves on the white precipitous clifls on the eastern part of this island, create a scene peculiarly sublime. Climate. — On the whole, the climate is peculiarly salubrious* There is no prevalent distemper, no ague; and pulmonary consump- tion is peculiarly rare. The register of deaths for the last six months of 1838 gives only two adults, and three young children. Throughout 1838, the recorded deaths in the parish are only five adults, and seven children. The winter is generally clear and mild; in spring, however, from the prevalence of the east and north-east winds, it is often keenly cold ; the geniality of summer and autumn is amply attested in the crowded influx of strangers for the enjoyment of sea-bathing and perambulation among the beau- tiful scenery around. Hydrography. — The Frith of Forth bounds the parish on the south and east, semi-circumambient to Auldhame Bay. One or two insignificant streamlets wind their course to the Forth, but are scarcely more than the confluence of drains or trivial marshes. Mill- Burn, however, deserves notice, meandering its way round the west and south base of the Law, and through a sweetly secluded and wooded ravine, styled the Glen^ — a delightful retreat and walk, shel- tered from every wind, and opening at its termination on a splendid 320 HADDINGTONSHIRE. view of the Frith, embracing the Isle of May, the east nook of Fife, and Craigleith. Geology. — The rocks in this parish belong to the secondary and alluvial classes, and of these the predominating kinds are secondary. I. Secondary formations. — These are sandstone, limestone, and trap. The sandstone, generally of a red colour, sometimes con- tains beds of limestone ; one of these, remarkable for its offensive smell, occurs at Rhodes . quarry, about half a mile from North Berwick. The sandstone and limestone are older than the true coal metalsy and, therefore, workable coal is not to be expected under or in them. The trap or whinstone rocks which form the greater part of the parish, either cover or traverse in various ways the sandstone strata. Immediately above the town of North Ber- wick, rises the beautiful conical hill, named North Berwick- Law, whose summit is about 940 feet above the level of the sea, and 800 feet above its base. The district arou^nd the hill is low, and slightly undulated. The lowest rock visible is a variety of trap tufa ; higher up is amygdaloid. The middle and upper parts of the hill are of a beautiful and very sonorous variety of clinkstone porphyry ; and the summit rock is clinkstone porphyrjs intermixed with crystals of augite, thus forming a transition to augite-green- stone. The clinkstone is, in some places, columnar, and forms cliffs of considerable magnitude. The Bass Rock, so celebrated in history, is a vast mass of secondary trap, resembling that of North Berwick- Law. It is an augite greenstone, generally 6ne granular, but sometimes so abounding in felspar as to verge on clinkstone. It exhibits, in a very marked manner, the tabular structure, as is also the case in the similarly composed Isle of May. II. Alluvial Strata. — These do not differ in individual and ge- neral characters from the alluvial deposits in the neighbouring pa- rishes. A more detailed account of the geology of this parish is given by Professor Jameson, in the third volume of the Memoirs of the Wernerian Natural History Society. Soil. — The soil of this parish is, in general, as stated in the for- mer Statistical Account, rich, fertile, and well cultivated, pro- ducing large crops of wheat, barley, oats, peas and beans. No hemp is raised, nor flax. Turnips are now extensively cultivated, and potatoes are raised in considerable quantities. This parish has largely shared in the improvements of modern agriculture ; and is distinguished for the science, and care, and success of its husbandry. NORTH BERWICK. 321 Zoology, — It is on the island of the Bass, that the rarer species of xoology in this parish are to be found. We subjoin the statement of the birds that breed on the Bass, as furnished to us by the keeper of the island. **The Solan goose or gannet, measuring 6 feet from tip to tip of the wings ; the large black gull, about 5 feet ; the large blue gull, about 4 feet 9 inches ; the kittiwake, about 3 feet 7 inches ; the common marrot or guillemot, about 2 feet 8 inches ; the puffin or Tommy-norrie, about 9. feet ; the razor-billed marrot, or common puffin, about 2 feet 4 inches ; the falcon or hawk, the large raven, the eider-duck, and the cormorant; with innumerable flocks of smaller birds not peculiar to the Bass." The most celebrated of the sea fowl frequenting the Bass is cal- led the solan goose, or the gannet, a large white bird, measuring six feet from tip to tip of the wings, of which there are numberless thou- sands. It is almost peculiar to the Bass and Ailsa Craig ; though occasionally, we believe, it is seen in some of the northern and western islands of Scotland. It hatches on the bare niches or shelves of the rock. Its season of incubation is in the months of June and July. The keeper assures us it is mere Action, that the bird broods with her sole on the egg^ whence the name is supposed to have arisen, for that the egg under the body of this bird, is hatched in every way just as in the case of the domestic goose. It is equally a fiction that she lays but one egg. The keeper has taken more than a dozen eggs successively from the nest of one bird ; but leave her with her 6rst egg and she will lay no more. It is equally a 6ction that the egg is fastened to the rock by any peculiarly adhesive glutinous substance. The solan goose is a bird of annual migration. They come to the rock early in February in successive increasing flocks. It is about the beginning of August that the young are taken, after which the old begin to depart. They prepare to migrate as soon as their young are taken from them. They linger till October, and by December they were wont to be almost entirely gone, no one knows whither ; but with- in these last three years, hundreds have remained on the rock throughout the winter, — because herrings have remained ; and they depart and return in correspondence with the movements of the fish on whom they prey. ♦ Only the young birds are taken and sold. Sometimes even 1700 have been taken in a season, and sometimes not 700. They are taken from the rock by the • We are assured that, not for forty years, have so many hct^vw^^V«jtXiXaJi>««vvcv nX Frith of Forth as during last y«ar. 322 HADDINGTONSHIRE. keeper, who descends with a rope fastened around his waist, and held above by his assistant ; another rope is fastened to the rock above, which he holds around his hand, to facilitate his movements. He lays hold of the bird with a hook, draws it toward him, and kills it with a stroke on the head; then with great force throws it from him over the projections of the rock to the sea below, wbere the men in the boat are prepared to pick it up. The act cf throwing, thekeepei tells us, is the most difficult and perilous effort in the process. The feathers are valuable, and skilfully prepar^*d for use : the grease is carefully secured, and sold for a variety of purposes. The flesh is of a fishy peculiar flavour, an epicurean bonne-bouche ; not, how- ever, adapted to universal taste or enjoyment. — It is also a tradi- tional error, that the solan goose remains at one ancient invariable price. It has long ceased to be 2s. 6d. The keeper tells us, twenty years ago it was only Is. The usual price now is 9d. The eggs of the sea fowls that are sold, are those only of the black and blue gull, at Is. 6d. a dozen. The parish is not remarkable for breeding any peculiar species of cattle. The fish commonly taken in the Frith are cod, had- dock, whiting, skate, turbot, and flounders; ofcourse herrings and mackerel in their seasons. The shell-fish are abundant and excel- lent : chiefly lobsters and crabs. These are conveyed in carts to Edinburgh and Glasgow, and to London by fish smacks, express- ly built for this purpose. The usual retail price of a lobster is Is. and of a crab Id. Botany. — The dominion of the plough is not favourable to the objects of the botanist, and, excepting the Law and the Links, the parish is wholly arable. These exceptions, of course, present the usual varieties suited to such soils. There are very fine aged trees at Balgone and Leuchie — ash, beech, elm, oak, plane — which species seem best fitted to the atmosphere and soil, and grow magnificently. For the botany of the Bass, see Dr Walker's " £ssayson Natural History." IL — Civil History. North Berwick, though its origin is unknown, is a town of very ancient date, — being as old, at least, as the thirteenth century. It stands low, on the verge of the Frith of Forth, and consists of one long street from west to east, and of another near its eastern termination, from the north down direct to the har- bour ; this latter street, ornamented with a row of trees on each side, is the principal residence of the gentry. It was indebted NORTH BERWICK. 323 for its incorporation as a royal burgh to its charter from Robert III. ; and its municipal privileges were confirmed by a charter of James VI., dated 1 8th September 1568. It is governed by two bailies, a treasurer, and nine councillors. There is no guildry, and there are no incorporated crafts. It has, at no time, been a place of much commerce or consideration, as is evident from the small amount of the sums levied from it at the successive periods of public taxation. Of course it was represented by its commis- ' sioner in the Scottish Parliament ; and since the Union, it has been associated with Haddington, Dunbar, Lauder, and Jedburgh, in the election of a representative to the united Parliament The manor and the town of North Berwick, are stated as having been possessed by the Earls of Fife, the descendants of Macduff, during the twelfth, thirteenth, and a part of the fourteenth centuries. The last of this great family who enjoyed this estate was Isabel, the last Countess of that line, who lived during the revolutionary reign of David II. At the accession of Robert II., by an unre- corded arrangement with Robert Duke of Albany, William Earl of Douglas acquired the barony of North Berwick, and so laid the foundation of the long, extensive, and powerful influence of the Douglases in East Lothian. In 1373, by a charter of Robert II. to Earl William, North Berwick was made a burgh, with the privileges of buying and selling, with a port and custom-house for the entrance and clearance of ships, and a tron for the weighing of wool. This is the most ancient charter of North Berwick. The Earl at the same time entered into an obligation to resign this charter, ^' if the same should be found detrimental to the king, to the nation, or to the burgh." It does not appear that the Earl succeeded in his beneficent design. Even in 1692, more than three centuries afterwards, the town is stated to have had ^^ only two fishing boats." It will be seen, in a future place, to what com- parative importance it has progressively advanced. The manor of North Berwick often changed its lords. It was forfeited in 1455, by James Earl of Douglas; but in 1479, it was granted by James III. with most of the forfeiture of that Earl, to his heir-male Archibald Earl of Angus, and erected into a free barony ; — ^though the king was ill requited for his benefaction, for Angus pursued James I IL to his dethronement and death ; and in the pos- session of this younger line of the family of Douglas it long remain- ed, associated with the lands and castle of Tantallan, the renowive.Jcv^V nXv^ i\Vft ^"^ '^^ "^^^^^ 324 " HADDINOTONSHIUK. nastery, with much of the property belonging to it, was granted by James VL to Alexander Home, the possessor of the barony of North Berwick ; but his family failed, and the property was trans* ferred successively to other owners, and in 1640 a ratiBcation was passed in Parliament of the right of Sir William Dick to the lands and tithes of the barony. These possessions were^any years af- terwards acquired by Sir Hew Dalrymple, Lord President of the College of Justice ; who purchased also from the Marquis, after- wards Duke of Douglas, representative of the Earls of Angus, the remainder of the barony of North Berwick, styled the lands and lordship with the fortalice of Tantallan. The property of the whole has descended regularly in entail, and is now vested in Sir Hew Dalrymple, Bart., the lineal descendant of the President of the Court of Session. . Eminent Characters, — Many illustrious men in ancient times have lived and died in the parish of North Berwick, and illustri- ous women too; the Liords of Tantallan, the Prioresses of the mo- nastery, and the Martyrs of the Bass, — over most of whom the veil of oblivion has long fallen, and it cannot be upraised. How very soon the mighty and the famed, the learned and the good, fade into the shade of forgotten time, without the faintest memorial even of their existence ; no note even to tell us where they sleep ! So fares it here with the house of Douglas, and the house of Home, and the many beside, rich and powerful, and noted in their various genera- tions. Tradition reports 8t Baldrcd, the disciple of St Kentigern, and the apostle of East Lothian, as a resident on the Bass. He died in the beginning of the seventh century. As an eminent character, celebrated in the fifteenth century, the name of John Mair or Major must be recorded as a native of this parish.* He was born at Gleghornie in 1469. He became a mem- ber of Christ's College, Cambridge, where in 1518 he seems to have written his learned history. He became a member of the University of Glasgow, and bore the titles of Canon of the Chapel Royal and Vicar of Dunlop. He is represented as Professor of Theology in Glasgow in 1521, and one of the Deputati Rector is ; during that year his work ^^ De Gestis Scotorum" was published in Paris. He remained in Scotland about five years, and taught theology in the University of St Andrews ; where, in 1525, Buchanan is stated * I am indebted to my esteemed friend, Mr Uobert Chambers, for tbc knowledge of this fiustt in whose very yaluahle ^* Biographical Dictionary of Eminent Scotsmen,** the more curious reader will fiod ample details regarding Uiis learned historian. NORTH fiKUWlCK. 325 tu have studied under him in the College of St Salvador, and to have been so fascinated with his instructions as to have followed him to France. He returned to Scotland in 1 530, and resumed his teaching of theology in St Andrews, which he continued for many years, and died about the year 1547. — The Earl of Angus, the famed husband of Margaret of England, the queen mother of James V., whose changeful and eventful life occupies so prominent a place in the Scottish Annals of the sixteenth century, died at Tantallan about 1556 or 1557. — Of the Martyrs the name of John Blackader, minister of Troqueer, a descendant of the House of TuUiallan, who died on the Bass in 1685, after five years con- finement, remains in vivid and hallowed remembrance. He is buried in the churchyard of North Berwick, where a large flat monumental stone, with an appropriate poetical inscription, marks the place of his sacred rest. Its legend was renewed some years ago under the inspection of Dr Andrew Crichton, while officially resident here, whose published ^^ Memoii*s of Blackader" are full of interest and instruction. — Besides Sir Hew Dalrymple, Bart, raised to be the Lord President of the Court of Session in 1698, and which office he filled till 1737, the name of Sir Hew Dal- rymple, a later ancestor of the present Baronet, is very honourably known throughout the country for his enlightened enterprise and improvements in agrk:ulture, as is also the name of the late Sir George Suttie, Bart, of Balgone. Land'OWJiers. — The heritors are. Sir Hew Dalrymple, Bart, the chief proprietor, a Captain in Her Majesty's 71st Regiment, now on service in Canada; Sir George Grant Suttie, Bart of Balgone and Prestongrange ; Mrs Hamilton Nisbet Ferguson of Dirleton and Belhaven; the Earl of Dalhousie; Sir Edward Thomas Troubridge, Bart, of Rockville ; Patrick Dudgeon, Esq. of East Craig ; and William Waddell, Esq. of Sydserff. It is to be recorded, with great regret, that there is not one of the heri- tors resident in the parish. Parish Registers. — The parochial records were, at one time, voluminous and in excellent preservation ; but for very many years they were kept with extreme carelessness and irregularity. It is only very recently that they have been kept with resumed ac- curacy and propriety. There is an inventory made early in 1692, on the induction of Mr Matthew Reid as minister, which re))re- sents the records as commencing in 1604; but the two earliest volumes, containing proceedings from 1604 Vo \^*^^^ >kv^ 'a>Sfef3»- 32o UADDINtiTONSIlIRR. quent records, have unaccountably disappeared, and the earliest register we have seen is dated 19tli October 1651. From this date the register of baptisms and of proclamation of marriages seems in pretty good order; while from 1758 onward to a recent date, there appear no minutes of session whatever. There are now regular and authentic records carefully kept of the proceed- ings of session, and registers of births and baptisms, of proclama- tion of marriages, and of burials. The Dissenters seldom register the birth of their children in the parish session records, — occii- sionally they do. A serious neglect in parochial registration has prevailed here, as generally elsewhere, we fear, in the proclama- tion of marriages alone being recorded, and not the solemnization. It has happened repeatedly. during the incumbency of the present minister in this parish, that proclamation was duly made and re- corded, but the proposed marriage never took place. Parties after marriage should present the certificate of its celebration to the clerk of session, and have the fact of marriage duly registered. The other parochial registers, as now conducted, however, are more correctly the registers of baptisms than of births, and of burials than of deaths. Antiqinties, — This parish is noted for its antiquities, sacred and civil ; and the delineations of them, literary and graphic, are nu- merous and valuable. The former Statistical Account is unrea- sonably and unaccountably meagre ; and details somewhat more lengthened, perhaps, seem due to the genuine and popular inte« rest of the subjects. Only a few brief notices, however, are all that may be expected to receive admission here. Abbey, — About a quarter of a mile west from the town, on a gentle elevation toward the south of the public road, stand the venerable but awfully mutilated ruins of the Abbey of North Berwick. It was a Cistertian nunnery, founded by Duncan Earl of Fife, who died in 1154, of which there are, on the whole, very accurate views in Grose's " Antiquities of Scotland." The site is admirably chosen, commanding extensive and magnificent views — on the one hand of the beautiful and lofty Law, and on the other of the rich and variegated coasts of Fife, the Frith with its numerous rugged rocky islands, and the immeasurably expanding ocean. It was consecrated to the Virgin Mary, and richly endowed with lands in the manor of North Berwick, and with revenues from different sources in Fife, Berwickshire, Roxburghshire, Ayr- shire, Edinburghbhire, and West Lothian. Its founder bestow- NORTH BERWICK, 327 ed on the convent the patronage of the church of North Berwick, with its tithes and pertinents. Afterwards were ac- quired the advowsons of the church of Largo, of Kilcouacher, Kilbrachmont, and St Monance in Fife, with lands that belonged to each of them. The Bishop of Dunblane added the church of Logie Aithry, near Stirling ; and Adam de Kilconacher, Earl of Carrick, a zealous patron of the convent, in 1266, confirmed to the nuns the grants of his fathers. In the ancient Taxatio^ the lands which belonged to the nunnery were rated at L. 66, 13s. 4d. In 1296, the Prioress submitted to the power of Edward I , and received in return writs to the several sheriffs of Fife, Edin- burgh, Haddington, Berwick, and Roxburgh, to restore the estates of her convent Submission thus insured protection ; and, for a while, the female inhabitants of the nunnery were again safe in the enjoyment of their possessions. But, in the future progress of anarchy and turbulent violence, their weakness invited deprivation and plunder under James III. ; the servants and the tithes of the Prioress within the parishes of Kilconacher, Kilbrachmont, and St Monance were assaulted and seized. The Prioress, in 1482, applied to Parliament for protection and redress ; and the Lords decreed the restoration of the property, and the repair of the da- mages that the assailants had inflicted. — In the succeeding reign, Margaret Home, fourth daughter of Sir Patrick Home of Pol- warth, (who died in 1504), became a nun, and rose to be Prioress in the convent. Her niece, Isabel, third daughter of Sir Alexander Home of Polwarth, (who died in 1532), also from being a nun, suc- ceeded her aunt as prioress. It is thus seen, that, previously to the Reformation, the nunnery had become in a measure the inheritance of the Homes. After the Reformation the revenues of the con- vent which remained unalienated and untransferred, were erected into a lordship for Sir Alexander Home of North Berwick, a spe- cial favourite of James VI. ; and the patronages of the various other churches were distributed to various suitors, at the pleasure of the King and the Parliament At the Reformation the convent contain- ed eleven nuns, whose income was about L. 20 each, yearly. The income of the nunnery is stated thus : ** Money, L. 556, 17s. 8d ; wheat, 9 chalders, 12 bolls ; bear, 19 chalders, 4 bolls ; oats, 14 chalders, 4 bolls ; pease and beans, 3 chalders, 9 bolls ; malt, 1 boll, 3 firlots, and 3 pecks ; 18 oxen, 13 cows, 1 last and 9 barrels of salmon." (Books of Assumption.) The monastery has been, at one time, evidently very magnificent, strongly built, and covering an ex- 328 lIADDlN(;TONSIUttE. tensive arc.i of ground. Hut it has occasionally Ix^n very lightly esteemed, and is sadly dilapidated ; though the massive remains are very picturesque, embosomed among trees, and form a very interesting memorial of olden times. Various relics are occa« sionally gathered from the fallen ruins. Lieaden pipes of con- siderable extent have very recently been discovered, which served for the conveyance from the higher ground of water to the convent, and which are obviously of great antiquity. The Vaults, which formed one of Grose's Views, were many years ago, entirely de- stroyed and erased. AuldKirk, — Near the harbour, on a small sandy eminence, close to the shore, stand the remains of what is traditionally called the Auld Kirk; but these interesting vestiges have been sadly diminish- ed, even in very recent years. The main entrance, a strongly built archway, is still entire, and the font is still permitted to remain in its primeval position and perfection. The building, said by some to have been a chapel belonging to the abbey, would seem to have been the Auld Kirk of the parish, and evidently was surrounded by the paro- chial burying-ground, very long disused. Year after year, in the vio- lent north-east storms which are not unfrequent in winter and spring, the sea makes melancholy ravages on this scene of ancient sepulture, and continues to disturb and discover many forms which for cen- turies have reposed there. Care is taken to have these human relics removed on their exposure, and re-interred in the present church- yard. It was in a vault at the Auld Kirk, in 178^ a metallic seal was found in a stone-coffin with the legend ^* Sigillum Williehui de Douglas," — the impression it produces is very distinct; ii is round, of the size of a half-crown. It were exceedingly desirable that means were taken to prevent the destructive encroachments of the sea on this antique cemetery, and to prevent the remaining ruin from further dilapidation. A large stone lies flat in the green centre of the area which the building must have inclosed, and is said to mark the burying-place of the Landers of the Bass. Tantallan, — About three miles east from the town of North Berwick, on a projecting precipitous eminence, of trap tufa rest- ing on sandstone, overlooking the sea, which surrounds it on three sides, stands the far-famed castle of Tantallan,* in naked * A curious etymology of this name i» given traditionally, that two superintend- ents of the building cif the Castle, called Thoiuas and Allan^ obtained permission from Miller'b »* Si Baldred of the Bass,** a iw^eni of considerable merit. 3 * NORTH BERWICK. 329 • majestic ruin. Its form is an irregular hexagon. The outward structure is comparatively entire; the walls are of enormous thickness. The only approach is from the west, which was defend- ed by towers of a very massive construction, — and two ditches inter- vened — the inner one of uncommon depth. The entrance was over a drawbridge. Above the entrance there still remains, sculptured in a stone shield, though now much effaced, the memorable em- blem of the Bloody Heart, the well known ensign of the Douglases, its early, proud, and powerful proprietors. The interior exhibits a labyrinth of inaccessible chambers and broken staircases ; the walls of the buildings remain all unroofed, of great size and extent, and arched gloomy vaults beneath them. There are several dis- mal subterraneous dungeons, the former prison-holds, no doubt, of the miserable captives ; and long, in later days, the hidden haunts of smugglers, and the unsuspected depositories of their contrabands. Oneof the most deep, and dark, and dismal of these dungeons is out- side the castle, at the north-west angle, and only recently discover- ed ; and is conjectured to have been the dungeon-keep of the guard-house. The site of Tantallan Castle is admirably adapted for a warlike strength. Its origin and the date of its erection are equally unknown. It rose with the power of the House of Douglas, whose original settlement in £ast Lothian was on the accession of Robert II., when William, Earl of Douglas, acquired the barony of North Berwick. For centuiios, Tantallan was the great and principal strength and defence in the east of this proud and powerful family. It was so admirably situated and so skilfully constructed, that it mocked every military enterprise for its conquest Its destruction was regarded as impossible ; hence the popular conviction, ^^ Ding down Tantallan ? — mak a brig to the Bass," — accomplishments viewed as equally hopeless. The barony of North Berwick, with the Castle of Tantallan, was forfeited by the Earl of Douglas in 1455. In 1479, they were given by James HI. to Archibald, fifth Earl of Angus, the well known '* Bell the Cat," whose patriot- ism and exploits, — whose remonstrance with James IV. against his war with England, and consequent retirement to Tantallan, — have become familiar to every reader, by the admirable delineations of the author of Marmion, whose descriptions (by the way) are vi- vidly faithful to the real character and localities of the celebrated stronghold. When the succeeding Earl of Angus, married to the queen- mother of James V., had fallen from his supreme elevation, and lost his power over the person and couaciU q^ vWv ^c^^J^^S^aS. 330 HADDINGTONSHIRE. monarch, he withdrew to the Castle of Tantallan, and there for a time de6ed the hostile force of the kingdom. The King appeared before it in person in September 15*28, and attempted its reductioD, but without avail. At length, however, Angus was compelled to flee to England; and the castle, by a compromise with Panango^ the governor, on the 4th December, was surrendered to the royal forces. Tantallan and all the other castles and estates of the Elarl were forfeited to the Crown. In 1 537, the King personally visited Tantal- lan to ascertain its capabilities of defence. On the King's death the Earl obtained permission to return from his long exile ; his restora- tion to the possession of his castles and manors took place in 1542| and he made Tantallan stronger than ever. He is stated to have died at Tantallan about 1557. But this mighty stronghold fell before the fervid zeal and tremendous energies of the Covenanters. The Marquis of Douglas had favoured the designs of Charles L, and his castle was besieged, captured, and garrisoned by the Covenan- ters, against the King, in 1639. It is stated as having been finally defended against Oliver Cromwell, and taken after a short siege. In the beginning of the eighteenth century, the castle and lands were sold by the Marquis, afterwards Duke of Douglas, to Lord President Dalrymple, when the castle, till then habitable, was dis- mantled, and left to decay. The Bass. — Facing Tantallan Castle on the north, in the mouth' of the Frith, about a mile and a-half from the shore, stands the inn mcnse rugged circular rock called the Bass. It is fully a mile in circumference. It rises 420 feet above the surface of the sea, and from the fathomed depth of the waters around, it may be estimated about 600 feet in total height On the north, it is peculiarly lofty and precipitous, and stupendously overawing. On the south, it is somewhat coniciil in form, sloping moderately down nearly to the base. It has been fancifully stated to resemble in this aspect the spoon and knife and fork-box, such as used to grace our family sideboards.* Its superficies is guessed at seven acres. A cavem- ed passage penetrates through the rock from north-west to south- east, where the rock grandly projects, perhaps, forty feet. The ca- vern is passable even at full -tide, if the sea be calm. The Bass is inaccessible save on one flat shelvy point to the southeast ; the south and the north side of this point are the only two landing- places. Commanding this point, is a small fortalice at the extremi- ty of the curtain. At one time, the fortification could be reached • Vide Chambers* Gazetteer of Scotknd. NOUTH BERWICK. 331 only by ladders, or a bucket and chains, raised at the crane bas- tion ; but afterwards, the ascent was by three flights of stairs within the rampart, each protected by a strong gate : these inner gates have long ago disappeared. The fort and the dungeons are all un- roofed, and in ruins. — Blackader's Cell is still pointed out with its three small iron-barred windows to the west, and awakens many a solemn sacred feeling. — One solitary gun yet remainsof the ancient defence, now much corroded : the few other cannon on the Bass were brought thither firom Leith only in 1822, to salute George IV. on his visit to Scotland, when the southern landing-place was somewhat prepared in the possibility of his Majesty landing there. The King of Belgium visited the Bass in 1819. About half-way up the acclivity of the rock, a little below the old effaced garden, are the interesting remains of a chapel, pretty entire. The niches for the fonts shew that it was built prior to the Reformation. * When the Bass became the Bastile of Scotland, the state-prison for the persecuted Covenanters, this chapel was desecrated by being made the ammunition magazine for the garrison. How early this island was tenanted by man, is quite unknown. It is traditionally reported to have been a residence of Baldred, the apostle of East Lothian, even in the sixth century. It is on au- thentic record, that it was inhabited in the beginning of the fifteenth century ; for in 1406, Robert III. placed his son on the Bass (after- wards James I.) to be beyond the cruel machinations of his uncle, the Duke of Albany, till a vessel was procured to convey him to France ; and hence he embarked in his memorable ill-fated voyage, which terminated in his nineteen years captivity in England. It is familiar to our readers that he was treacherously way-laid by directions of Henry IV., and captured off Flamborough Head : when the intelligence was conveyed to his father in Rothesay, he sunk in bitterest anguish into an immediate grave. * A few yean ago, an incident occurred on the Bass, ezpressiye of a strong linger- ing desire to retain the chapel, occasionally, at least, for its original destination. A young lady, in the presence of her father, was here solemnly confirmed in her Romish fiuth and profession, and the due ritual services were gone through in the presence also of the keeper of the Bass and his boat assistant. On the conclusion of the solemnities, the priest turned to the keeper, and asked him, with due decorum, if he would not also now kneel, down lirfore the altar, and follow them in similar dedioa- doD and worship. ** Me?" said the Protestant Presbyterian James, ** Me? Na, na, am thankfu* there's mair sense gi*en me — I wad just as soon. Sir, fa* doon and worship ane o* thae puir solan geese about us," (pointing to the myriads around him) ** than e*er gang on wi* ony sic mockery." My friend and parishioner James re- mains an invincible adherent of the Reformation, and also, as well may be conjectured^ the Bass being ever before him, a stem abhorrent of prelatic tyrancv^ «xAx«^g»^ ^ potism. XV2 lIAl)DlNr;TONSIIIRF. The Bjiss for many o^cnorations was the property of an ancient fa- mily, stvled Lauder of the Bass, one of whom is stated to have been a compatriot of Wallace. The family residence, however,- it is be- lieved, was not on the Bass, but in the town of North Berwick. A large flat stone in the desolated cemetery at the Auld Kirk, is said to mark their burial-place. This family, it would seem, at length fell into decay, and the Bass underwent various transferences. It was purchciscd by government in October 1671, from Sir Andrew Ram- say of Abbotshall, for the sum of L. 4000. Bigotry was then ram- pant, and tyranny was triumphant. The prisons of our northern kingdom were gorged with the persecuted, and the Bass was con- verted into a state-prison for the Covenanters under Charles 11. It served this debased purpose during the reigns of the last two deluded monarchs of the House of Stuart. It held out for several years af- ter the Revolution a^rainst the new dvnastv, auiidst numerous and vigorous enterprises for its subjection, and was signalized as the last place in Great Britain that yielded to the dominion of William III. In February 1701, he directed the fortifications to be demolished. Ultimately, in 1706, the Bass was granted by the crown to Presi- dent Sir Hew Dalrymple for one Scots penny, reserving the power of refortifyinor tha Bass, if Government at. anv time should think it proper to do so. The fort and the prison were afterwards dis- mantled. The walls remain in naked desolation. The Bass is an impressive historical scene in the eyes of en- lightened and thoughtful men. It is an object of deep national interest, associated with the great scheme of civil and religious freedom. No one should view it without holy gratitude to God for the removal of the mournful oppressive gloom in which the political liberties of these realms, a century and a-half ago, were enshroudcrl ; and for the advanced constitutional freedom of these better and illumin«ated times in which we are privileged to exist. It is not bore we can have space to dwell on one of the foulest pages of our country's annals ; on the enonnous injustice, the cruel and bitter sorrows, and the accumulated and intolerable wrongs it records; in the reviewal of which the mind and the heart of every man, alive to the inalienable rights of man, fail within him in abhorrence, indignation, and shame. But the names of these venerated cap- tives of the Bass, these Presbyterian faithful, deserve to remain in imperishable remembrance.* * Sco Dr Crichton*« ** Memoirs of Blackader/* in whicli he has given a collected enumeration of the sufferera, raosUy from Wo — North Berwick is a royal burgh, with a markets place, and is duly supplied with all the necessaries and comforts of ordinary life. The population is of the usual description ; but the resident gentry are here more numerous, perhaps, than is common in such small towns. There are two surgeons, and one bank, — and a branch of the Western Bank of Scotland is on the eve of being established. Besides the burgh officer, it has no other police. There is no village in the parish. There is a post-office subordinate to the office at Haddington ; the post arrives daily about eleven in the forenoon, and departs at half-past twelve. There is a stage-coach to Edinburgh every lawful day, which leaves North Berwick at half-past seven in the morning, and reaches Edinburgh in three hours, and leaves Edinburgh in the afternoon at four : it is conducted with great propriety. Four car- riers go to Edinburgh on their respective days, in the course of the week. The turnpike roads, and bridges, and fences, are in excel- lent condition ; no canal or railroad. NORTEI BERWICK. 339 Ecclesiastical State. — A church has been established at North Berwick from remote antiquity. St Baldred may have been its founder in the sixth century. It is shewn to have been esta- blished before the reign of David I. Lender that monarch, Duncan the Earl of Fife, who died in 1154, founded the convent for Cistertian nuns, to whom he granted the church of North Berwick, " with its tithes and pertinents." It was dedicated to St Andrew. There was an altar in it devoted to the Virgin Mary. It is a cu- rious record of the olden time, that Agnes Fawlaw, wife of Robert Lauder of the Bass, with the consent of her husband, granted an annuity often merksfrom a tenement in Edinburgh, and five from a tenement in Leith, for supporting a chaplain to officiate at the Vir- gin Mary's altar in St Andrew's Kirk at North Berwick, which grant was confirmed in 1491 by James IV. This church was of con- siderable value ; in the ancient Taxatio it is valued at 60 merks. It remained in the patronage of the nuns till the Reformation. It pro- bably was then transferred, along with the grant of the nunnery, and much of its property, made by James VI. to Alexander Home, pos- sessor of the manor, — all of which possessions were acquired by Lord President Dalrymple, and are enjoyed by his lineal descend- ant — It is an original and single parish. The Auld Kirk, near the shore, with its surrounding cemetery, is in entire desolation. The present church was erected in 1770, on the foundation of a former one, said to have been built in 1670; and, with the exception of th^ old oak seat of the Dalrymple family in front, the interior was wholly renewed in 1819, and is all in excellent condition. It affords accommodation for 550 ; of course, there is great and evident defi- ciency of church accommodation for the population of the parish. The seats are allocated to the heritors and tenants, except half of the western gallery, which is allotted to the magistrates and council and burgesses of the town. — The church stands in a large square area, forming the parochial burying-ground, encompassed with rows of lofty, venerable, and wide-spreading elm trees. The solemn beauty of the scene excites universal observation. The church is conve- niently placed for much the greater part of the population, — no house being farther distant than three miles. The present manse was built in 1824-5, and is peculiarly substantial and commodious, and is inferior to none in the kingdom. It is beautifully situated on a gentle elevation, in the centre of the glehe, and commands every view of the beautiful and grand scenery around it The offices are excellent, numerous, and extensive. Tbe ^<^V^^&^^^sx^* 340 HADDINGTONSHIRE. what more than 6 acres in extent, rich, and fertile ; — the stipend has comfortably progressed in amount. In 1755, it is stated at L. 72, 6s. 8d., in hist Statistical Account it is stated, on an average, at L. 116. The stipend decreed on 4th February 1818, for crop i8 Epiluliiuni iiiisutum Verbascum nigrum Listera ovatii Circseu lutetiana Parnassia palustris — — » nidus avis Valeriana officinalis Juniperus communis. Solanum nigrum Scirpus lacustris The old trees in the grounds of Winton, and in the woods of Fountainhall, are covered with splendid specimens of Fungi, belong- ing to the genus Polyphorus, and in the same places are also to be found a few specimens of the care and beautiful FUtulina /lepatica. There are .occasionally discovered on the upper layers of the coal wrought at Huntlaw in this parish, distinct impressions of leaves belonging to plants not now growing in this country, but which are to be found in more southern regions. II. — Civil History. This parish is very ancient. During the reign of William the Lion, the manor of Pencaithlan was possessed by Everard de Pen- caithlan, who assumed a surname from his place. Everard granted to the monks of Kelso the church of his manor of Pen- caithlan, with the tithes and other rights belonging to it in pure alms for the salvation of his Lord, King William, from whom it is probable he obtained the lands. In the ancient Taxatio the church of Pencaithlan was rented at forty marks. Before the ac- cession of Robert the Bruce, the church of Pencaithlan had ceased to belong to the monks of Kelso ; from what cause is not known. The manor of Pencaitland, soon after the succession wars, came into the possession of John de Maxwell, younger brother of Sir Eustan Maxwell of Carlaverock, who granted an annuity, from his lands of Pencaitland to the monks of Dryburgh, besides the advowson of the church of Pencaitland, with the chapel of Paystoun and the church lands, tithes, and profits. The church of Pencaitland and the chapel of Paystoun remained with the ca- nons of Dryburgii tiil tiie lieforuiation. The cure was served by a Vicar. 348 HADDINGTONSHIRE. Eminent Men. — David Calderwood, an eminent divine and eccle* siastical historian, was, in the latter years of his life, minister of this parish. He Hved during a very eventful period in the History of Scotland, and experienced largely the vicissitudes which charac- terized those times. His attachment to Presbytery was enlighten- ed and conscientious. This led him to oppose with great firmness the attempts that were made to introduce Episcopacy into Scotland. A rather amusing account is given of a conversation which King James had with him, when summoned to appear before the commis- sion court that sat at St Andrews. Mr Calderwood maintained his own principles with great propriety, and resisted all the attempts of the King to win him by persuasion or overawe him by authority. For this conduct he was first imprisoned, and then sent into ba- nishment. The country to which he removed was Holland, where he resided for six years. While there, he published in 1623 his celebrated treatise, entitled *' Altare Damascenum^** the object of which was to expose the insidious means by which the polity of the English Church had been intruded upon Scotland. After the death of King James, Calderwood returned to Scotland, and resided at Edinburgh in a private manner for many years, com- piling a history of the Church of Scotland from the death of James V. to that of James VI. He attended the celebrated as- sembly ^t Glasgow in the year 1638, — where his acquaintance with the constitution and records of the Church were of great ser- vice. About this time he resumed his proper functions as a mi- nister, and was settled in this parish, where he continued to labour faithfully till a short time before his death. He was a member of the committee for drawing up the Directory for public worship. An abstract of his Church History was published under the care of the General Assembly. Mr Robert Douglas, another minister of this parish, was a very distinguished man. The first public notice taken of him is as chaplain to a brigade of auxiliaries sent over to Germany from Scotland, to aid the Protestant cause under Gustavus Aldolphus. He continued a considerable time with the army of that celebrated commander, who said of him, that Mr Douglas might have been counsellor to any Prince in Europe ; for prudence and knowledge, he might be Moderator to a General Assembly ; and for military skill said he, ** I would very freely trust my army to his conduct." Mr Douglas returned to Scotland, and was one of the ministers of Edinburgh, in 1641. Two years after this time, he was ap- PENCAITLAND. 349 pointed one of the Commissioners from Scotland to attend the famous Westminster Assembly, but, owing to some cause or other, was prevented from attending. He frequently preached before the Scotch Parliament during the course of the civil war, *^ and shunned not to declare the whole counsel of God." He laboured much for the restoration of Charles II. to the throne of his an- cestors, and was appointed to preach at the ordination of that mo- narch, at Scone on the 1st January 1651. It was said of him in his own day, " that few contributed more to^he Restoration than Mr Douglas, and derived less benefit from it" Subsequently to this period, he was settled minister of this parish under the Indul- gence, and died about the year 1673, full of years and of honours. Another person of distinction connected with this parish, was Sir John I^auder, Lord Fountainhall. He was an eminent lawyer and statesman, and not less remarkable for his zealous attachment to the Protestant faith, than for his exemplary conduct in the va- rious relations of life. His industry as a writer on subjects con- nected with his profession was very great, and the fruits of his la- bours are justly regarded as most valuable. Besides the two vo- lumes published under the title of *< Fountainhall's Decisions," he left three quarto and ten folio volumes of manuscripts, and there is reason to believe from his references, that some others were lost. James Hamilton, son of Lord Presmennan, was appointed one of the Judges of the Court of Session, and also a Lord of Justici- ary by the title of Lord Pencaitland. Although he confined himself almost entirely to the duties of his own profession, yet the worth of his character was extensively known ^nd highly estimated. It seems to have been in the person of this gentleman, that the connection of his family with the estate of Pencaitland was formed — a connection which reflected great honour on their own character, and that has proved to be a signal benefit to this place. It would be im- proper to pass over without some notice, George Seton, fifth and last Earl of Winton. He was eminent for his high rank in society, for the antiquity of his family, and for his chivalrous but disastrous attachment to the House of Stuart He joined in the rebellion in 1715, was taken prisoner at Preston, tried for high treason, sentenced to be executed, and his estates and honours forfeited to the Crown. He found means to escape out of the Tower of London, % and fled to Rome, where he died unmarried, about the age of 70. ** Thus terminated one of the principal houses in Britain, after subsisting for upwards of 600 years in East Lothian^ aud V^y^^^^ HADDINGTON. X 350 HADDINGTONSHIRE. the foundation of several families of great distinction through the rest of Scotland." Landed Proprietors. — The Right Honourable Lady Ruthven is the principal proprietor and patron of the parish. Her Lady- ship's family (the Hamiltons of Pencaitland) have been long in possession of that estate, to the great advantage of their tenantry^ and all connected with them. Andrew Fletcher, Esq. of Salton ; Patrick Dudgeon, Esq. of East Craigs ; Sir Thomas Dick Lau- der, Bart, of Fountamhall ; Mrs Johnston Brown of Milton ; and the Right Honourable the Earl of Hopetoun, — are the other chief proprietors. Parochial Registers. — The earliest date of baptisms and mar- riages is 1598, and of deaths, 1616. From the above dates to the present time, these registers appear to have been kept, re- spectively, with great correctness, with the exception of a period of fifty years in the register of marriages, which is wanting. The minute book of the kirk-session, from 1633, and the cash book of transactions in managing the poor's funds, from 1729 till this time, bear marks of having been kept with much attention. A register of certificates granted to persons in communion with the Church when leaving this parish, and also a book containing inventories of the effects of paupers taken at the time that they were put upon the roll, have been kept since 1817. Antiquities. — In the village of Wester Pencaitland, there is an old cross, the history of which is not known. It may, however, (as frequently happens in England,) have marked the distinction of a market-place. This idea is countenanced by a notice that was published in the Edinburgh Gazette, from Monday, 21st, till Thursday, 24th August 1699, in the following terms : " This is to give notice that two new fairs are to be holden at Wester Pen- caitland, in the sheriffdom of Haddington, for horse, nolt, sheep, and all sorts of linen and woollen cloth. The first upon the 4th of October, and the other on the 8th day of June yearly, free of customs for three years." III. — Population. In 1759, the population amounted to 010 1791, ... 925 1801, ... 970 1811, . . lasa 1821, . . . 1145 laSI, . . 1166 From this statement it appears that the population has not fluc- tuated much in point of numbers for the last eighty years. There i$ a small increase from the time of the census in 18i31. PENCAITLAND. 351 Average of marriages for eacli of the lost 7 years, - 10 ofbirtbs, ... .30 ofdeathf, ... .24 la 1831 » there were inhabited houses, - - 256 Families, - - - - - 259 Employed in agriculture, - . -92 families. In trade or manufactures, - . . 29 Other families, . • . . . 136 Males, . . . ... 557 Females, ... . . 609 The general character of the inhabitants of this parish is high- ly respectable. Of course there are here, as well as in other places, some ^^ that walk disorderly,^' but for the most part the people are diligent in their various callings, moral in their habits, and regu- lar in their attendance on the ordinances of religion. A marked improvement in the observance of the Sabbath has taken place within the last twenty years* Still, however, it is greatly to be desired that there should be more decided evidence of the spirit and power of true godliness. IV. — Industry. This parish, as we have seen, possesses some valuable minerals in addition to the productions of the soil. The amount of land may be estimated at f3800 acres Scots, which may be divided as follows : In tillage, . 3400 permanent artificial pasturct • 160 wood, . . . 240 3800 There are sixteen farms in the parish, varying from 160 to SCO acres in extent, besides a few detached portions of land on which there are no buildings. Leases and Rents, — The duration of leases for the most part is nineteen years, agreeably to the general practice in this county. The total rental of com and grass land may amount to L. 6400. The rent of laud in tillage varies from L. I, 5s. to L. 3, and may average about L. 1, 15s. Pasture land brings from L. 1, 10s. to L.2, 10s. per acre Scots. The rents are almost entirely paid in money. The dwelling-houses of the farmers are suitable to their condition, and generally very comfortable. The farm-offices are also well adapted to the improved state of agriculture. It is gra- tifying to find that greater attention is paid to the comfort of the farm-servants. Their houses for the most part consisted formerly of but one apartment, with bare walls, and all open to the roofing. Of late years, however, a considerable improvement has taken place in the style of these dwellings. This is the case over the whole parish, but especially on the estate o? vVve "Kv^\.'^w\ft\«^i^^ Ladj Rufhven, the principal Vierilot. 'Ra^ oxve o\>Jci^'&fc'^w>s«Sk^ 352 HADDINGTONSHIRE* lately built upon her Ladyship's estate, is provided with three apartments, one for a kitchen and place of sleeping, another exclu- sively for a sleeping apartment, and the third for the produce of the dairy and household necessaries. These apartments are all plaster- ed on the walls and ceiling, and, in other respects, very comfort- able. This increase of accommodation must have a very beneficial effect not only on the health and comforts of the peasantry, but also on the delicacy and propriety of their domestic intercourse. The lands are judiciously subdivided and inclosed for the most part with thorn hedges, which, upon the whole, are kept in good order. Live-stock, — Owing to the high price of live-stock for some years back, the attention of the farmer has been more directed to this branch of rural economy. A considerable number of cattle are now reared and fattened. The sheep stock in general are not reared in the parish, but bought in at the spring and autumn fairs. The total number (besides lambs) may amount to 70 or 80 scores. They are principally sent to the Edinburgh market. Husbandry, — A considerable portion of the soil here is un- favourable to the cultivation of turnips and other green crops. Fallowing is therefore an indispensable part of the course of crop- ping. The rotation generally followed is, what is called, the six- shift course. The application of lime to the soil has greatly fal- len off for a number of years back. The favourite mode of im- provement at present is by tile- draining. This operation is carried on vigorously in this parish, and the beneficial effects of it are very manifest. Steam-engines are coming into use for the thrashing of corn, which relieves the horses of the severest part of their labour, and at the same time proves a considerable saving to the farmer. Produce, — The gross amount of raw produce may be estimated as follows : — Wheat, ■ • L.6360 Barley, , . • 1850 Oats, • • 5750 Pease and beans, • • 1100 Turnips and potatoes. • • 850 Hay, (cultivated) ■ ■ 800 Pasture grass, • ■ 1150 Do. permanent. • • « 800 Thinnings of woods and fell ing of timber. 7(X) Coal mines, • • 70C0 Lime quarri(», ■ • 700 Gardens, • 2ao L. 26.790 V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Towns, — The market-towns chiefly resorted to are Haddington and Dalkeith. But grain and cattle are also fre- quently sent to the Grassmarkcl o? ISiOivtAiUT^. PENCAITLAND. 353 Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is a very venerable and picturesque structure. One part of it, called the Pencaitlaud Aisle, from its form and style of architecture, must have been built in the days of Popery. The other and larger portion was erect- ed in the year 1631. It is still in excellent preservation, and very comfortable as a place of worship, having lately received a com- plete repair. It is situated in the centre of the parish, and there- fore very convenient for the attendance of the people, who are, upon the whole, regular in the practice of church-going, and at- tentive to the preaching of the word. The number of Dissenters of all ages does not exceed 20, and of these some frequently attend the parish church. Through the kindness of the heritors, the manse is in excellent condition, and very commodious. The glebe, along with the gar- den, and site of manse and offices, contains rather more than six Scotch acres. The land is of good quality. The stipend consists of 70 bolls, 3 firlots, wheat; 75 bolls, 2 firlots^ 1 peck, barley ; 1 15 bolls, 1 firlot, 1 peck, oats ; with L. 3, 13s. 7^d. of money. Education. — There are three schools in this parish. The pa- rochial school is in the village of Wester Pencaitland. It is well attended, and well taught. The average number of scholars in winter is 70, and in summer, 65. The usual branches of educa- tion in country schools are taught here, with some of the higher branches. The schoolmaster has the maximum salary, and is well accommodated with a house, and garden, and school-room. There is another school in the village of Easter Pencaitland for instructing girls in the elementary principles of education, and teaching them needle-work. This school was established by the late Mrs Hamilton Campbell of Pencaitland, whose estimable qua- lities rendered her very dear to her friends, and whose memory w*ill long be cherished as a benefactress to this place. There is a third school in the village of Newtown, that is chiefly attended by the children of the colliers. As these children from an earlv acfe are more or less cnj^aofed in work, this school labours under great disadvantages from the irregularity of their attend- ance. Nevertheless, it is in a respectable state, and proves a great benefit to that place. The teacher receives certain gra- tuities from Lady Ruthven and the gentleman who rents the coal ; but he is chiefly supported by the school-fees. On the Lord's day there are assembled in the diflerent schools, either before or after the time of public wots\\\^, ^\iQ>\V V^^ Ov\:\^- rcn, for the purpose of reccWiwg s^\t\\,uA \tv^Vt>\OLWcv> T^\«s "k:^^ 354 HADDINGTONSHIRE. taught by the regular teachers, assisted by others who cheerfully join with them in sowing the good seed of the kingdom in jth« minds of those young ones, trusting that, through God's blesting, it will take root and bring forth fruit unto everlasting life. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor on tbe roll who regularly receive assistance is 32. The funds for their re- lief are derived from the stated Sabbath collections, the interest of certain sums bequeathed to the kirk-session for behoof of the poor, — the mortcloth dues, and an assessment on the heritors and tenants. The average allowance to each pauper is rather more than L. 4, 10s. The disposition on the part of the poor to seek relief is on the increase. Aged parents wish to ease their children, and children to be freed from the obligation to help their parents. There is, within the last few years, a strong ten- dency towards a state of things that is inconsistent both with the feelings of nature and with the law of Christ It is proper, how- ever, to state, that there are some honourable exceptions. Inns, — There are three public-houses in this parish, and one store where malt liquors are sold, to be used oiF the premises. Fuel — There arc three coal-mines wrought in this parish, so that the inhabitants have access to that necessary of life at a mo- derate price. Miscellaneous Observations. While it affords great cause of thankfulness that the inhabi- tants of this parish are so generally distinguished for propriety of conduct and regularity of attendance on the public ordinances of religion, yet there is one exception of rattier a serious character. It is no uncommon thing for married women in the lower classes to be remiss in their attendance on the House of God. Of course, it is admitted that there are times and circumstances in the con- dition of families, when the mothers cannot be absent from them without inconvenience, or perhaps injury. The notice here taken docs not apply to those occasions, but rather to times when there is reason to fear that absence from church proceeds from coldness or carelessness in the things of God. Neither is such remissness peculiar to this parish. On the contrary, it is believed that it pre- vails to a greater extent in some other parishes in this county, and perhaps also in other parts of Scotland. It is not difficult to form some estimate of the injurious consequences to the well-being of society, and to the prosperity of religion, which must flow from this source. If the mothers in Israel do not themselves repair to the pool of ordinances, that they may drink of its health-giving OLDIIAMRTOCKS. 355 and refreshing waters, how can they be disposed or qualified to instil into the minds of their children those principles that will bring forth the fruits of holy and happy living. This marked no- tice is taken of an evil which threatens much injury to the rising generation, in the hope that other -pastors and other elders in our Church may be stirred up to counteract and correct it by all the means in their power. May 1839. PARISH OF OLDHAMSTOCKS. PRESBYTBRY OF DUNBAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDAI.K. THE REV. ROBERT MOORE, A. M. MINISTER. ♦ I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name of the parish is derived from the name of the kirk town : and the ancient appellation of the village was usually written in charters, Aldhamstoc and Aldhamstok* These forms of the word are evidently derived from the Saxon Aldham, the old habitation, and stoc^ a place. Extent^ Sfc, — This parish lies six miles east of the town of Dunbar. It extends from the German Ocean on the east into Lammer- muir ; and is bounded on the north and west by the parish of In- nerwick ; on the south by that of Cockburnspath. Its length from north-east to south-west is about 6 English miles, and its breadth from north-west to south-east from 2 to 3 miles. The face of the country presents a succession of little hills gra- dually rising about each other, and receding from the shore. SoiL — The soil is generally sharp and dry ; very fertile towards the sea, but at a distance from the shore, barren and heathy. Some account of the Geology of this parish will be found under the Ge- neral Observations on the County. There is a seam of coal in the parish, but it has not been wrought. IL — Civil History. " The church of Oldhamstocks is ancient. In the ancient Tax- atio, it was rated at the high value of 60 marks. In Bagimont's Roll it was rated at L. 10. This church never belonged to any monastery ; the patronage of the rectory seems to have continued with the lord of the manor, who cannot be easily traced on so doubtful a frontier : Oldhamstocks appears not among the manors or baronies of Haddington constabulary in the tax-roll of 1613 ; and from this circumstance we may infer that \l W^ Na^fcw Vssn% • Di-.nrii up from Notes futm%h«d b^ ^vR«tev\\. \w^\n\^>m^a- 356 HADDINGTONSHIRE. merged in the harony of Dunglass. After various successions, the patronage of the church of Oldhatnstocks became inyested in Hunter of Thurston. On the 28th of August 1296, Thomas de Huntingour, the parson of Oldhamstock, swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick, and was thereupon restored to his rectory."* Land-owners. — The principal land-owners in the parish are, Sir James Hall of Dunglass, Bart. ; James Hunter, Esq. of Thurs- ton ; Thomas Dods, Esq. of Statencleugh ; and James Balfour, Esq. of Whittinghame. HI. — Population. Fopulation in 1801, - 575 1821, - 725 1831, - 720. Number of families in the parish, ... 152 chiefly employed in agriculture, - 88 in trade, manufactures or handicraft, 92 One or two small boats belong to Bilsdean creek, and are chief- ly employed in catching lobsters. V. — Parochial Economy. Villages. The villages in the parish are Oldhamstocks and Bilsdean. Church and Schools, — The minister's stipend, on an average of the seven years from 1829 to 1835, inclusive, amounts to L. 297, 15s. 6d.f There are 3 schools in the parish. The parochial school is situate in the village of Oldhamstocks. The salary of the master is L. 25, 15s. and his fees amount to about L. 19 a year : he has also about L. 6 a year from other sources. In the other schools, only the ordinary branches are taught All the people in the parish have been taught to read, and all the young can write ; and there are very few who are not also taught the common rules of arithmetic. Poor. — Tlie number of poor in the parish of Oldhamstocks, on the average of the years 1835-6-7 is, on permanent roll, - II lunatics, - 2 receiving occasional relief, - 2|:^ In all I5| 'Ilic funds distributed ; permanent poor, (average) . L. 33 4 lunatics, - - . 50 occasional poor, - . 2 16 8 education, - . . 14 L.86 14 8 Ucceivcd from church door collections, L. 19 7 11 assessment, - 78 8 3 ^ Total funds, .-^_ L. 07 16 2 * Chalmers' Caledonia. I Farther particulars concerning the ecclesiastical state, See. will be presented in the tables to be appended to the General Observations on the C^iuntv. X Occasional poor, 1835, 2 ; 1836, 2; ia37, 4 j average 2f. i GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COUNTY OF HADDINGTON.* Haddingtonshire is situated between 55° 46' 10" and 56° 4' of north latitude, and between 2° & and 2*^ 49' longitude west from London. It is bounded by Mid-Lothian on the west ; Ber- wickshire on the south; the German ocean on the east; and by the Frith of Forth on the north and north-west. It is nearly 25 miles in length from Ravenshaugh burn on the west to Dunglass burn on the east, and being something like the form of a triangle on each side of that line, its greatest distance from it to the south in the parish of Fala is 9 miles, and its greatest distance to the north, in the parish of Dirleton, is 9 miles, which gives 224 square miles, or 114,688 acres Scotch measure, as the superficies of the whole county, and of which 82,18'1 are known to be arable. It takes its name from Haddington, the county town, which is pleasantly situated on the river Tyne, near its centre. The county is generally spoken of as East Lothian, but that name properly refers to the arable lands only, the rest of the shire being com- posed of part of the Lammermuir-hills, which stretch along its southern border. It was long merely a constabulary, and subject to the jurisdiction of the Sheriflf of Edinburgh, and it is still occa- sionally mentioned under that designation ; but in the first act of James VII. it is considered a distinct shire, and has continued an independent sheriffdom since the Revolution. For many years, the county formed part of the Saxon kingdom of Northumberland, but it was annexed to Scotland by Malcolm II. in A. D. 1020. From that period till 1296, it is said to have enjoyed comparative tranquillity, and to have made considerable progress in agricultural improvement; but the sanguinary wars thft commenced then, regarding the succession to the Scottish throne, desolated the county to nearly the middle of the follow- ing century. During the fifteenth century, it also repeatedly suf- • Drawn up by Robert Hope, Esq. FcntonbariiK. 358 r.KNEKAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE fered severely from the turbulence and lawless ambitioD of its nobles. In 1650, it was the theatre of the defeat and slaughter of the Scotch army by Oliver Cromwell; and again in 1745, its soil was polluted with blood by the infatuated politicians of that unhappy period. But fortunately, since that time, it has enjoyed uninterrupted tranquillity, when every circumstance connected with its domestic and rural economy have been in a state of stea- dily progressive improvement. Topographical Appearance$. — East Lothian presents a finely di- versified landscape when viewed from the adjoining hills of Lammer^ muir. From the Garleton-hills, near its centre, the prospect is likewise interesting and beautiful. From that position the inequalities of the surface are more discernible ; and it is seen that, although the country rises from the sea shore to its southern boundary, yet that the ascent is not uniform, but generally by ridges of gently swell- ing undulations, and almost entirely stretching in an east and westerly direction. The first of these ridges from the sea com- mences with Gulane-hill, in the parish of Dirleton, and, stretching eastward through the parishes of North Ber^'ick and Whitekirk, embraces the entire northern angle of the county. The second distinctly marked ridge has the Garleton-hills for its centre, and extends west into Mid- Lothian, and east into the parish of Pres- tonkirk, where it terminates near the sea. All the rest of the county has a pretty regular and gentle ascent to the south, but generally composed of easy swells of the surface, and stretching from east to west with hardly a single exception. North Berwick Law and Traprain Law are conspicuous objects in the topography of the district. They are seven miles distant from each other, and rise singly in the open plain, the former a beautifully shaped conical hill to the height of 800 feet, and the other to 700 feet above the level of the sea. Hydrography, — There is nothing particularly deserving of no- tice in the hydrography of the county, as, from its geographical pobition, and limited extent, all its streams are necessarily of a very short course, and trifling dimensions. The Pefier is a small sluggish burn or stream, that runs through a tract of flat alluvial soil, and discharges its waters into the sea, the one-half by the west at Aberlady, the other half by the east in the parish of White- kirk. Its course altogether is about ten miles, and it drains the valley stretching along the southern border of the three parishes that constitute the northern angle of the district. From appear COUNTY OF HADDINGTON. 859 ances in the strata, it is probable that the sea continued to flow through the bed now occupied by the Peffer, aftec both sides of it had become dry land, when, of course, the ground to the north would form an island. The Tyne is by far the largest stream in county, yet its course is so short, and its waters so limited, as hardly to deserve the name of river. It rises in Edinburghshire, and running eastward through nearly the centre of East Lothian, a level fertile district, to which it is highly ornamental, it falls into the sea at Tynninghame, after a course of little more than twenty miles. Besides enlivening the landscape, it is at the same time found highly convenient, indeed valuable, by the number of mills it puts in motion during its course, and hkewise by its effec- tually draining all the county to the south of the Garleton ridge already spoken of. Salton and Gifford waters, as the streams are named, are tributaries to the Tyne, by draining into it all the south-west section of the county. Beltonford-burn is the only other stream in the district worthy of notice. It rises in the pa- rish of Garvald, among the Lammennuir-hills, and, after a north- eastern course of about eight miles, falls into the sea a little to the west of Dunbar. It is but a trifling streamlet, of a few yards broad even at its mouth ; yet its banks are distinguished by some of the sweetest scenery in the county, as at Beil, for instance, the elegant mansion of Mrs H. N. Ferguson, where nature and art united have done so much to adorn and beautify the landscape. Geology. — The geology of the county presents a field of inquiry deeply interesting to the philosopher, and of profound contempla- tion to the partially informed, as well as to the man of science or general learning. It can hardly be said to have as yet been studied with reference to agriculture, notwithstanding of its intimate con- nection with that art, and its direct influence in determining the character of the husbandry of every nation, wherever the business is properly understood. It is therefore particularly deserving of notice, when treating of a district that owes so much to its agri- culture. The county exhibits in very marked features two lead- ing geological divisions within its boundaries : Ist^ The Lammer- muirs, composed of transition strata^ and chiefly those of nep- tunian or aquatic formation. These hills stretch from east to west along the entire southern border of the county, and form near- ly a fifth part of its superficial contents. They are from 500 to up- wards of 1700 feet in height^ and are consequently unfitted for grow- 300 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS OX THE ing corn with advantage ; besides, their general steepness, and the rugged and barren nature of the soil, render cultivation for the most part out of the question. At Fassney water, there is a very interesting display of neptunian and plutonian transition rocks^ which are described in the Memoirs of the Wemerian Natural His- tory Society, and in Mr Cunningham's prize essay, published in the seventh volume of the Wernerian Society's Memoirs. Pasturage is the natural purpose to which they are fitted, and to which they are found admirably adapted, as shown by the healthy stock of sheep that are annually sold to be fed in more genial climates. In the glens and hollows, the soil composed of the debris washed from the hills is found generally .dry and fertile, and produces oats, tur- nips, and potatoes of excellent quality. It is perhaps impossible to determine whether or not the Lam- mermoor range of hills had attained their present elevation, when the adjoining low country to the north was immersed in the depths of the ocean. But the probability is, that they then formed a por- tion of an extensive continent, comparatively little elevated above the level of the sea, and which ]^ielded that luxuriant vegetation that now forms the rich coal-fields on the western part of the county ; and, that when the present arable district was lifted up to its present position, these hills, too, felt the effects of the move- ment, and had their foundations elevated in the general convulsion, by a j)ressure from below, and laterally, with a force of that tre- mendous magnitude which the human faculties can never fairly comprehend. 2(//y, There appears to be no difference of opinion among geo- logists, regarding the real character of the low lands of the county, or of what, strictly speaking, is denominated East Lothian, as these are allowed on all hands to be of the secondary formation. The old red sandstone, which may be considered the basis of that formation, rests on the transition strata. The rock is distinct- ly seen at different places on the sea coast, and is known to flank the Lammermoor-hills from the west to the eastern ex- tremity of the county. It is considered the lowest of the car- boniferous formation, and on which, throughout the district, rest various of the strata of the series consisting of limestone, coal, fire-clay, with ironstone, clay, shales, and all their alternating sandstones peculiar to the period. The only exception, if such it is, to the district being entirely of secondary strata, arises from the 3 COUNTY OF HADDINGTON. 361 trap rock that occupies a portion of its surface, as that rock has obviously burst through the entire strata after even the most recent of it had been deposited. It is impossible to form any estimate of the length of time that has elapsed since the country was raised from the bottom of the ocean. Yet it is extremely probable that it took place at the same period of the trap irruption. And it is almost obvious to ocular demonstration, that after the movement had commenced, at least after the highest lands of the district had begun to emerge from the sea, that the motion had been steadily progressive, whatever the rate may have been at which it proceed- ed, until the land and sea had each attained their present respec- tive positions. At the same time, there are certain circumstances that distinctly show, such as the accumulation of particular kinds of diluvium on the eastern sides of the trap hills, that the lifting up of the ground had not been instantaneous, like what is ex- perienced in an earthquake. Although such is the fact, as appli- cable to the district as a whole, when speaking of its being lifted from the bottom of the ocean, yet there is one exception which, although of a limited description, is deserving of notice, as it shows clearly there has been a second movement, perhaps in the subsid- ing of the sea, but more probably in the lifting up of the dry land. That fact is distinctly visible on the sea shore in the parish of Dirleton, where the outline of the ancient beach is clearly dis- cernible in some places more than a mile from the sea, and the new, or at least more recent land is apparently thirty feet above the present high water-mark. It is curious that the south side of the same parish, in the vale of Peflfer, affords indications, although not so distinctly marked, of the same interesting circumstance. A very considerable portion of the soil in the centre of that parish rests on trap rock, which renders it more probable that the whole parish has been elevated, than merely the narrow strip around its margin. There is a difference of geological structure in the arable por- tion or low lands of the county, which, although of a minor charac- ter, may warrant its description under three separate heads or sec- tions, as that diversity extends to both the natural structure of the land, and also to the system of husbandry suitable to each. The south-eastern portion, extending from Oldhamstocks parish west to Garvald, and including the parishes of Dunbar, Innerwick, Spot, Stenton, and Whittinghame, may be considered as forming the 362 GENERAL OBSERVATIONB ON THE first of these sections, and which may be designated the red sand- stone district. The space occupied by the sandstone strata itself, where it has been lifted to the surface, is comparatively limited, and the rock at its disruption is either generally covered with the diluvium brought from a little distance, or its disintegration is so complete as to offer no obstruction to cultivation. But, besides that space itself, almost the whole adjacent lower grounds to the north and eastward of the rock are covered with diluvium princi- pally of the sandstone, its debris and rougher fragments having been carried by the current of the superincumbent waters, and spread over the less elevated portion of the original strata. And to such a depth have these materials been accumulated in various situations, that they actually constitute something like a new formation. There are, however, parts of this section, and especi- ally near its western confines, where a considerable mixture of clay is to be found in the ground, and which, consequently, confers a different character on it, as well as a difference in its value, and the nature of its produce. The greater proportion, however, by far of the surface of the parishes mentioned is composed of the sandstone diluvium, mixed to a greater or less extent with the other materials furnished by the disrupted strata of secondary for- mation, and which constitutes what is denominated a sandy loam, a soil naturally fitted to become, what much of it actually now is, a tract of the most fertile land in Scotland. Limestone is found near the eastern extremity of the district, but confined to a comparatively limited spot, composed entirely of the original strata. Trap rock is also found to a trifling extent, but chiefly within the sea beach or near to it. Clay fit for tile- making is apparently restricted to one spot on the sea coast, to the west a little of Dunbar. There are no other minerals known to exist in the district. The second section comprehends the parishes of Gifford and Morham, and from these, and from the Garleton-hills to the westward to the boundary of the county, the surface of much of that district is tolerably level, the strata having been compara- tively less disturbed and dislocated than some other parts of the country. Throughout a considerable portion of it, the soil has con- sequently been formed on beds of clay, and similar materials, more nearly approaching to the original strata than the soil of the land to the eastward. The action of the atmosphere, through the lapse COUNTY OF HADDINGTON. 3C3 of ages, has no doubt greatly modified the stubborn character of the original surface ; but much of it will long continue to show the natural barrenness of the undisturbed strata of lands of the epoch to which it belongs. Along the sea shore, as also in dif- ferent limited tracts in the interior, the soil is of., what has already been described, diluvial origin, — being the less adhesive materials of the previous strata washed from the higher into the lower lo- calities, while the ground had been covered with water. The land of such situations is consequently of good quality, and well calculated for all the purposes of modern husbandry'. In the higher and south-west comer of the district, the old red sandstone makes its appearance to a limited extent, when the land covered and mixed with its debris, like what occurs elsewhere, forms the earliest and richest soil of any in its neighbourhood. Had the rock, however, been lifted to the surface in its original horizontal position, it would, in respect to its productive powers, have re- mained in a state of comparative barrenness ; whereas, in being lifted up, it has been so far twisted and dislocated, as to have enabled the superincumbent mass of waters to break it up, and spread abroad its fragments in a rougher or more comminuted state, and which are everywhere found so highly favourable in promoting a plentiful and vigorous vegetation. This section com- prehends a portion of the coal-measures that extend westward in- • to Mid- Lothian, and is composed of clay, shale, and sandstone peculiar to the formation of the carboniferous series. But the fertility of the incumbent soil varies greatly, and altogether de- pends on the nature and quantity of the diluvial materials with which it is covered. Where the limestone has been heaved up to the surface, its strata must be referred to an earlier era. Yet there is no perceptible diOerencc in the productive powers of the soil that covers it, and what has been more recently accumulated on the strata after the coal formation. Trap-rock abounds along the sea coast ; clay also, for the ordinary puq)oses of the potter, is met with in different situations. The third district or geological section comprises the parishes of Haddington, Athelstaneford, Prestonkirk, Wliitekirk, North Berwick, and Dirleton, and presents a character entirely different from the rest of the county. These parishes at one period, with- out doubt, formed part of the same plain, and were overlaid with such deposits as are common to the secondary formation. But in numerous situationss the strata have been burst ;55»vxTvvife\ \ ^asA"^^ 364 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE melted materials of a lower region have been 'forced to the sur- face, and now form Traprain Law, Garleton-hills, North Berwick Law, and all the other rocks of igneous origin so conspicuous in the district, as well as the various isles and rocks that stud its shores. These rocks and hills differ both in structure, and, in some degree, in the materials of which they are composed, and are, consequently, distinguished by various names, such as por- phyry, clinkstone, greenstone, basalt, &c. The designation trap-rock is suflRciently descriptive of the whole family; hence we here use it as a generic term. Trap is generally found in the vicinity of limestone, which has led to the conjecture of the latter beinor connected with the formation of the former. It has already been stated as existing on the sea shore in the eastern district of the county. The harbour of Dunbar is in part formed of a rare and really interesting description of trap, which, from the colour and materials of which it is composed, leads to the belief of its having been formed by the fusion of the red sand- stone and limestone, that both abound in the neighbourhood. In* deed, it is highly probable that the various descriptions of trap are all merely the result of different degrees of heal, acting on different materials met with in the interior, and, like other rocks of igneous origin, have forced their way through the various strata to the surface of the globe. The upbreaking, however, of the regular strata of the section of the county at present under consideration, by the trap, appears to have produced a greater diversity of soil of the present surface than could pos- sibly have existed otherwise ; — as, being lifted up and broken to fragments in deep water, running with a heavy current, the more clayey portion of the mass has, in some degree, floated till carried to the sheltered side of the first rock in its course, where it has been deposited, and now forms richer soil than that composed of the rougher and harder materials hurled to compara- tively lower and more exposed situations. Hence the ridges or tails of deep rich loam, forming the eastern slopes of Traprain Law, North Berwick Law, Garleton-hills at Barneymains, Dirle- ton, Fcntontower, Whitekirk-hills, and various other localities. The interesting fact, that the waters that then covered the country ran with a strong current from nearly due west, is also strikingly illustrated by these deposits, — the ridges or slopes stretching east and west, and invariably resting on the east side of the trap-hills and rocks : and further, rocks are common with a bold clear face COUNTY OF HADDINGTON. 3G5 fronting the west, but never >^'ith a clear face in the opposite direc- tion. Boulders of trap have also been found in great abundance, strewed in a direct line to the east, from the parent rock, but none are ever seen lying to the westward of the same rocks. As to the ef- fects of the trap irruption on the general fertility of the district, it is highly worthy of notice, that the lands every where are undoubt- edly better fitted for all the purposes of modern agriculture, by the commingling together of all the various original strata, than they possibly could have been if lying in their first position. The mineral products of the county are of the utmost import- ance to the general welfare of its inhabitants, and arc therefore de- serving of particular notice. 1^, Coal is found in great abundance in the western parts of the county. It is a continuation of the Mid- Lothian coal-field, and extends eastward through the parishes of Prcstonpans, Tra- nent, Ormiston, Pencaitland, Gladsmuir, and into Haddington, but in the last it is so interrupted by faults, dikes, &c. as to be un- worthy of working. It is consequently found principally in that part of the district that escaped the trap irruption. The article is said to have been known so early as in a. d. It200, when it was worked at Prcstongrange by the monks of Newbattle. It crops out in Seton sands, which may have led to its discovery and use at that early period. Trials have repeatedly been made to the eastward of Haddington, indeed to the eastward of Dunbar, to discover coal, but hitherto without success. Nor, from the character of the strata is it at all probable, that it ever can be found in that direction worth working. In the parish of Dirleton, to the north of that vil- lage, a thin seam crops out near the sea, but in place of running into the higher ground, it dips rapidly away towards the sea, shewing as if the outer edge only of the basin in which the coal had been form- ed had been lifted up by the trap- rock found in its neighbourhood, but on the opposite direction of the dip of the coal. About two miles further west, also near the sea, the new red sandstone has been lifted up, and is probably the only rock of that series found within the limits of the trap district ; but its appearance adds to the pro- bability of coal lying in that direction, and which may extend across below the sea, and unite with the coal-field worked with such ad- vantage on the opposite coast of Fife. 2'ed as the nucleus for at- tracting the oxide of iron so as to form the red chalk in one bed, and the ironstone ore in the other ? 4/&, Clay of good quality, and fit for manufacturing brick and tiles, is met with in numerous situations. In the clays found in the higher part of the county, the colour is not uniform, and the beds of it are comparatively limited. The mineral in such loca- lities was most probably deposited after the partial dislocation and upraising of the strata of the secondary formation. But in the lower district, circumstances connected with the clay formation appear to have been materially different. There, it is all invariably of a blue colour, and extends partially along, or at least not far from the sea, from the vicinity of Dunbar to the western boun- dary of the county. It is probable that the clay originally ex- tended, at a remote period, in an unbroken line between the points here mentioned. The vale of the western branch of the Pefler-bum, however, is the field where the mineral is found in the greatest abundance, and which extends into the sea beneath the flat and wide sands of Abcrlady. It varies in depth from ten to 25 feet thick, probably deeper, although hitherto unascertained. Shells apparently of marine origin are foimd in the clay, but ge- nerally 60 much decomposed as to be incapable of handling. There are likewise verv thin beds or lamina of fine sand found interspersed occasionally among the clay, but so very thin as to be merely perceptible, although they servo to render the clay easier worked by the labourers when employed in raising it. And these 308 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE beds of sand are so uniformly deposited in something like hori- zontal strata as to shew distinctly that they must have been form- ed in very still water. The surface of the clay, on the other hand, is generally covered with sand a few feet deep, and which con- stitutes a moorish soil peculiar to the district. But under that sandy soil, when cleared away, the surface of the clay is seen thickly indented with irregularly shaped holes of from one to three feet deep, notwithstanding of its firm tenacious character, and which shews in the clearest manner, that, before the moorish sand was deposited, its surface had been washed and broken by water far more violently agitated than what had happened during the long period of the slow deposition of the argillaceous sediment, and as the level character of the stratum of the clay, as marked by the lamina of fine sand, shows that in all probability it had been deposited in very deep water, so its broken surface may be sup- posed to have resulted from its being raised into, and washed by comparatively shallow water, before being left entirely dry. The deposition of the seams of fire-clay in the sandstone strata may apparently be referred to the formation of the earlier period of the carboniferous series, while th^lue clay of the lower district would appear to belong to a more cecent period, although at the same time anterior to the trap irruption. 5/A, Sandstone for building can be readily obtained, and some of the trap quarries likewise produce excellent materials for the same purpose, but nothing can excel the latter rock for road mak- ing, and throughout a great portion of the county, it is easily ob- tained in the utmost abundance. In some situations, too, such as at North Berwick-law, the trap, although not stratified, is of that firm texture as to be cut into blocks, and used for gate posts, and likewise heavy rollers ^suitable for the purposes of the agricultu- rist. Such, in a brief sketch, are some of the leading facts in the geo- logy of Haddingtonshire. On a transient glance of the subject, the mind is apt to perceive nothing but merely a succession of tremendous convulsions of nature, which have been alike ruin- ous as irresistible. But a more deliberate consideration of all the astonishing phenomena, connected with the deeply interesting subject, that have followed each other during the lapse of an al- most inconceivable number of ages, leads to the cheering convic* tion, that design by a Supreme Ruler is most distinctly manifested 3 COUNTY OF HADDINGTON'. 369 in making beneficent provision for the extensive existence and enjoyment of his animated creation. Agriculture. — The Lammermuir-hills, that constitute the south- em and higher district of the county, are principally devoted to the breeding of sheep, part being black-faced, but the great pro- portion are of the Cheviot breed, which are generally preferred on account of the superior value of the wool. The native stock are well-known as excellent thrivers, and generally sell at compa- ratively high prices, to be fed on grass or turnip in lower districts of the kingdom. Much care has been bestowed by the store- mas- ters on the improvement of their stock, in respect to both wool and carcass, and the recent high prices of the former certainly hold out the most flattering encouragement for every exertion in that direction. Salving the sheep is invariably practised throughout the district, and it is probable that careful experiment may yet lead to the use of more valuable materials than any that have as yet been employed. East Lothian is an agricultural district entirely in the strictest sense of the word, and has been long celebrated for the skill and success with which its husbandry has been conducted. The atten- tion of its tenantry have long been steadily directed to the improve- ment of what is termed the alternate system of husbandry, as the practice best suited to both their soil and climate. At the same time, the fattening of stock of all descriptions for the butcher forms an important item in that system, and now constitutes a regular part of the economy of every well conducted farm. Comparatively few sheep or cattle, however, have hitherto been bred in the dis- trict, nor is there a single variety of any one description of our do- mestic animals, that owes its origin as a distinct breed to the eounty. Of cattle bred for feeding either on grass or turnip, some are of the short-horned breed, hut the greater proportion are from the Highlands and the north-eastern counties of Scotland. The sheep fed on grass arc generally ewes, which are bought in the autumn, with a view to have lambs in the spring, when both are fattened and sold off during the summer. A considerable num- ber of black-faced Highland wedders used to be fed on turnips annually, but of late that kind of stock has, in some measure, been set aside, and half-breed hogs fed in their stead. These are ge- nerally from Cheviot ewes by Leicester rams, and are common- ly sold early in summer after being dipt, the receutU\^\\ivv^^%^\ 370 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE wool having greatly encouraged that system of management. It will be observed, however, that, although the feeding of stock is now carried on during the winter months as well us in summer, yet that every description of soil is not equally well-fitted forthat profitable practice, and it is chiefly on that account that land suited for the growth of turnip, and which at the same time is equally well calculated for the production of wheat, is so truly valuable to the farmer. It is from possessing that character in so eminent a degree, that the lands in the eastern or red sandstone district are so particu- larly distinguished for their fertility and value. There, with some exceptions, in its north-west i)oint, to which the sandstone does not extend, every acre yields annually an abundant crop, either as food for fattening stock, or of grain of the finest quality. When, con- trary to what results from cropping with grain alone, the more abundant and weighty the cattle crops are, so much the more is the land enabled to yield valuable crops of corn. Turnip is con- sequently the basis of the system of cropping on all such soils, and which are part eaten on the ground, and the other portion carted to the straw -yard for cattle. Wheat sown at any time after the ground is cleared, or barley in the spring, always follow the turnip^ when clover and ryegrass seeds are sown for the next season. Grass, either cut or pastured, is the third year's crop, and which is followed by oats, that commonly finish the rotation. In cases where the soil is of a heavier character, the oats are followed by pease and beans, when wheat, sown in the autumn, finishes the course. There are 19,682 acres of that soil in the district, and the gross annual produce over the whole is estimated at from L. 6, lOs. to L. 8 Sterling per acre, Scotch measure. In the western district, over the lands that exhibit something like their original strata, summer fallow is the basis of the system of cropping. Along its southern border, there are occasionally seen pretty extensive fields covered with diluvium from the adjacent transition rocks, and are consequently fitted for the successful cul- ture of turnips. In such cases, barley with grass seeds follows, which often is pastured two or three years, when it is again broken up for oats. That system is still more applicable to the tract co- vered by the red sandstone diluvium, which is found peculiarly valuable for the growth of turnips and grass, and consequently the feeding of stock. But, from the nature of the original strata, the greater part of the district has a subsoil of such a retentive tenaci- COUNTY OF HADDINGTON. 371 ous character, that a bare summer fallowing is found by far the best foundation for its profitable cultivation. Wheat regularly follows the fallow, and is sown in the spring with grass seeds, which, the year after, is cut or pastured, and the fourth year the land is sown with grass seeds, which concludes the rotation. Some- tiines, the grass lies two years before the oats are taken, and, in other cases, beans and pease mixed succeed the oats, which, being followed by wheat, forms the sixth and last year of the course. But it is only on the better description of land that the sixth course qfstem can be adopted with any thing like advantage to the culti- vator. The climate, too, being rather late, is against that prac- tice, and which, on the whole, is rarely pursued. At the same time, all that portion of the western district that slopes to the north, and lies within a mile or two of the sea, is generally of very fine quality, and yields the richest crops of every description. The entire south-western district contains 25,231 acres, and its gross annual produce is estimated at L. 3, 10s. to L. 6 per Scotch acre. The sea-side part of the district contains 5740 acres, and its gross annual produce is valued at L. 6, 10s. per acre. In the third or tra]) district, the circumstance that more particu- larly distinguishes the system of cropping there from that in other parts of the county, is the very general cultivation of pease and beans, or black crop, as these are commonly designated. The greater part of that district has a retentive subsoil, and the soil itself is, in many cases, of a heavy loamy character, — consequently very well fitted for the leguminous crops mentioned, although not so well calculated for growing turnip. The climate is likewise favourable, which, united with a kindly enough working soil, enables the far- mer, with considerable certainty, to have the bean stubble regu- larly sown with wheat before the winter, — a circumstance on which much of the prosperity of the district depends. Summer fallow has long been the foundation of the system of cropping adopted, •—the land being commonly sown with wheat in the autumn, and with grass seeds in the spring for the year following. The third year, the greater part of the grass is pastured with sheep, only what is necessary for the work horses being cut with the scythe. Oats the fourth year follow after the clover lea. Beans drilled the next, when wheat, the sixth year, finishes the rotation. On dry sandy or gravelly loam, found to a limited extent near the sea shore, tur- nip have long commenced the rotation, and latterly, by skilful draining, the cultivation of that useful plant, licis been gradually 372 UKNLRAL OBSERVAIIOXS ON THE and profitably extended. In such cases, the after- rotation is similar, for the most part, to that where the land is summer fallowed, aad ' it will be seen by what is stateil, that the ground generally of the district is cropped with wheat twice every six years, and hitherto^ it may be added, without any apparent diminution of its fertilitj. The arable lands of this district extend to 27,786 Scotch acres, and the gross annual value is estimated at L. 6, 6s. per acre. Great attention has been paid in selecting the most Taluable va- rieties of grain of all kinds for seed, experience having proved, where attention has been paid to the subject, that varieties of the same kind of grain will often differ in their produce, to the extent of the full rent of the land. Of wheat, the staple produce of the county, both the white and red varieties arc cultivated, but the former by far the most extei^ sively. Of these, Hunter's sort has long stood the test of public approbation, and which, after many trials with a number of differ^ cnt kinds for the last thirty years, is still found the best suited for all the various soils and situations of the county. The woolly-ear- ed is also a valuable sort of the white kind for some situations. The Taunton-dcan variety promises well, but has not as yet been snflS- ciently tested. The blood-red is a valuable kind for very rich soft land ; the Lammas red answers well on moderately good soils, while the Peaston red, a variety recently introduced, is found to btt productive of grain of a very superior quality. The woolly-eared has a square set ear, and has short fine straw. Hunter's Taunton- dcan and the Lammas red are open in the ear, with pretty long straw. The blood-red has a square set ear, with short thick straw. The Peaston red likewise has a square set ear, but with long straw. The character of the straw ought always to determine the situation on which to sow the different varieties. Of barley, the Chevalier variety has lately been introduced, and, after repeated experiments made in competition for premiums offer- ed by the county Agricultural Association, for ascertaining its true character, as compared with the other sorts long cultivated, it is found to be the most productive of any kind known, and has consequentp- ly nearly superseded all otl>er varieties. It is, however, a few days later in ripening at harvest. Of oats, the potato and Ho])eton are the two best eurly varieties, the former for soft rich land, and the latter for soils of a harder description. While the grey Angus ont, a nually expended in maintaining the roads, besides what is derived from the toll-bars, now so common in almost every direction. The entire arable land of the county was also found to be 8*2,184 acres Scotch measure, or very nearly so, exclusive of plantations extend- ing to nearly 7500 acres. There arc besides about 2000 acres not arable, of sandy soil or links along the sea shore, generally occupied as rabbit warrens, and of which nearly one-half of that extent at Gullane is the only common worth noticing in the dis« trict. The Lammermuir-hills in this county are computed to con* tain 20,000 acres. There are 886 separate farms of from 60 acres and upwards, the average size being something near to 250 acres. Each iarm has a thrashing machine, of which about 80 are driven by steam, 7 by wind, 30 by water, and the rest by horses. About 40 of these farms are in the natural possession of the proprietors, being mostly in pasture ; the others are all let to tenants on leases of from nine- teen to twenty-one years. Rents are commonly paid by grain, generally wheat, the price being regulated by the annual fiars of the county. Seven bushels of wheat per Scotch acre may be COUNTY OF haddim;ton. 375 considered as something like the average rent of the wheat lands of the district. The valued rent of the county is L. 168,878^ 5s. lOd. Scotch, and the real rent, valuing the wheat at Ij. 1, 6s. per boll, will be found very near the same sum in Sterling money. The gross annual produce per acre over the arable land is nearly L. 6 Sterling, or for the whole county L. 493^104, which the annual cost of stock, viz. sheep and wool from the Lammer- muir-hills, will raise to about half a million Sterling. Remarks ok the past and present state of the County. Roads. — In 1750 the first turnpike bill for Scotland was an act of Parliament obtained by the land proprietors of this county, for repairing the great post road from Dunglass to Ravenshaugh. But long after that period, a single mile of continuous hard road was scarcely anywhere else to be seen in the district. Travelling in carriages was consequently tedious even in summer, and in winter it was almost out of the question. Riding on horseback was therefore common, and when ladies left home they were ge- nerally mounted behind a servant on a pad, an article of furniture then to be found in the possession of every family who had a horse to ride on. Grain was then also carried to market on horseback, even to the distance of Edinburgh. Coals were brought home in summer by carts of a very frajl construction, with hardly a bit of iron about them, the axletree being of wood, and the wheels slightly shod with iron in place of being ringed as at present. On farms of the larger size, there were carriages of higher pretensions, and dignified with the name of wain. When the roads became pass- able in spring or summer, the clumsy machine used to be put in motion, and drawn by four oxen and two horses, and conducted by the hind and his goadman, it would transport loads of from 42 lo 48 bushels of oats or barley, to the great self-satisfaction and importance of the individual intrusted with so weighty a charge. After the accession of his late Majesty George III. greater atten- tion began to be paid to the internal improvement of the county, and numerous acts of Parliament for improving and managing the public roads have since been obtained, and vast sums expended in constructing and repairing them in every corner of the county, and now a man with a single horse and cart, can easily transport the above-mentioned quantities of grain to wherever it may be found necessary. The turnpike and parish roads of the county extend to 350 miles or therebv. 3rr» GENERAL OU8KRVATIONS. ON THE Mode of Occupancy^ Cropping^ 4"^.— Long after the middle of last century, almost the whole county was open field, with much of the lands rundale, and divided field about amongst its numerous tenantry. These frequently resided together in a cluster of mean houses, dignified by the name of town, and were any thing but conveniently situated for the profitable management of their re- spective possessions. Summer-fallowing was then rarely thought of, and turnips and sown-grasses were hardly even known. It was theu a common employment for the farm-servants, in the summer afternoons, to gather thistles from among the com, or wherever else they could be found, to feed their work-horses during the night, these being the only green food the animals ever tasted while in the stable. And after harvest, when the crop was secured in the stack, and the barn-yard slap built up, the horses afk;er their day's work were turned out during the night to the fields, to seek such provision as nature provided. That season was called loffig halter time^ and the poor animals, unless detained by some spot more than ordinarily overrun with couch and other root weeds, were of- ten to seek far enough from home in the mornings. Now the whole county is inclosed, and every farm has within itself its owd farm-house and offices. Summer-fallow annually occupies at least on the heavy soils, about one-sixth of the arable land, and sown grass and turnips are everywhere far more than sufficient for the working stock necessary on every farm ; and all these im- portant and beneficial changes have been introduced within almost the lifetime of a single generation. Tenantry and Labourers, — Indolence and want of enterprise marked the character of the tenantry of the county up even to the middle of the last century. Alike destitute of the knowledge of agricultural improvement and the means of carrying it into ef- fect, they jogged on in the beaten track, perfectly satisfied with the system they pursued, and with the comforts it afforded them. As proof of this it^may be mentioned, that so late as in 1772, a farm in the northern angle of the county had been deserted by its new tenant, after he had merely ploughed his patch of fallow in the spring, when it lay without a tenant from the Whitsunday till after the harvest, although it was frankly offered on lease at L.], 6s. per Scotch acre. The land, too, was naturally of very superior quality, and without any particular expenditure since in improve- ment, has been long let at nearly three bolls of wheat per acre. Farm-servants were then but poorly paid and scantily fed, and COUNTY OF HADDINGTON. 377 with tlie feeble cattle and inefTectual implements of husbandry, were ill fitted, in any portion of time, to perform a reasonable amount of labour. Lord Kaimes, when writing about the imple- ments of husbandry then used, says of the harrows, *^ they were better fitted to raise laughter than to raise mouldj** and every thing else was of a piece." And so feeble were the cattle, that when making the barley-seed, a serious matter in those days, it was necessary the labour should be performed early in the morn« ing, and late in the evenings, when the sun's rays were compara- tively weak, otherwise the starved animals were unable to crawl. A married ploughman was paid in the produce of the farm, the same as at present, but he received 24 bushels less of oats than is given now : besides, the grain was fully 10 per cent inferior to the produce of the present time, and the cow, from the want of sown- grass, was often scarcely worth the milking, and, still more, po- tatoes were then hardly known. The consequences were, that the |>oor hind was miserably fed, poorly clad, feeble, and particularly liable to sickness. At that period, regularly in the spring, in every hamlet and village, the ague made its appearance in almost every family, and there can hardly be a doubt of that sickness hav- ing often been the natural effects of poverty and filth, more than any thing else. It is a singular fact, that, since the time that po- tatoes were at the command of the children in the labourer's fa- mily, the ague has not so much as even been known among them. With respect to smuggling and poaching offences, when in- dulged, always ))ernicious to the happiness of a rural population, the conduct of the people of the period under consideration, stands directly opposite to that of the present inhabitants. At that time poaching was utterly unknown, and simply because nobody then thought of preserving game, and every man shot or hunted as he thought proper. Pheasant preserves had not then been introduced to tenant the jails, and swell the criminal calendar of the kingdom. On the other hand, smuggling was exceedingly common, and as yet, wherever it is followed, was greatly pernicious to the best in- terests of the community. At that time, the entire sea-coast from Berwickshire to near Prestonpans, was occupied by one connected line of smugglers, and all intimately acquainted with each other. The articles dealt in were chiefly French wines and brandy, and even the respectable families of the district were regularly supplied with what of these commodities they required, by the contraband 378 (JENKKAL OBSKRVATIONS ON THF trader alone. * Whiskey was then scarcely known, the fiiniiers ami working classes generally using malt liquors, and who, for the trifling duty then levied on the article, were ever ready and eager to undergo the trouble, and incur the risk of cheating the gavgtr. But the exciseman and the union with England were considered part and parcel of the same concern, and were consequently alike hatefiil for a long time to the people of all classes ; and although that feeling had gradually softened, it was not altogether subdued till about the time of the American war, which interrupted the communication with France, and at the same time, furnished a new topic of in- terest, of the most deeply exciting description, to almost every fa- mily in the country. At the present day, and for a considerable time past, smuggling is little more than known merely by name, and thore is probably no corner in the kingdom where the people in general arc more disposed to respect the m;igistrate, and obey the laws, than the rural population of this county. Ecclesiastical State, — Christianity is understood to have been introduced into the county, at least so early as the sixth century, and ample provision made for its support, according to the notions of the times, at a very early period. History notices particularly the endowment of different extensive religious establishments; and the names of places, and the massive ruins still to be met with, testify to the piety of its ancient population. Since the Reforma- tion, the county has been divided into twenty-four parishes. Had- dington alone is a collegiate charge. Parish ministers, besides their spiritual duties, have also, with the assistance of their sessions, the important interests of the poor of their respective parishes to look after ; and from the chairman of the session, viz. the minister, being alike independent of those who contribute, and those who receive parochial aid, and the ser- vices of the session as a body, being entirely gratuitous, they are peculiarly well fitted for the discharge of the duty intrusted to them. It is to be understood at the same time, that, wherever legal assessments are raised for the poor, it is more peculiarly the duty of the session to say who are fitting objects to be put on the roll, when the heritors of the respective parishes attend to the rais- ing of the money. J^oor. — The table to be appended hereto will show the extent of • The above facts, stated as having oecurred sirce the middle of the last centurv were coiiiinunicated to the writer by individual who had, in their earlier years, beeii ]>ersonaUy engaged in what they narrated. COUNTY OF HADDINfJTOX. 379 pauperism in the county, which is too often to be traced to ignorance and profligacy united. Every circumstance, therefore, that has a ten- dency to degrade the taste and habits of the working classes, neces- sarily paves the road to immorality, and ought, therefore, to be se- dulously guarded against, as far as practicable, by every wellwisher of his country. The state of the cottages of the district is, under that impression, well deserving of consideration. These cottages generally consist of only one apartment, where all the members of the family live and sleep without regard to either age or sex. In cases where the family are grown up to men and women, such a condition must be any thing but favourable to that delicacy of feeling, especially among the females, so essential to sound mo- rality ; and when sickness happens, the want of fresh air, from the •mail window being frequently incapable of opening, renders the narrow crowded apartment alike pernicious to both the moral and physical welfare of the inmates. A man or woman accustomed to such misery can have no great apprehensions about pauperism, and, consequently, such people have generally little hesitation in throwing themselves on their respective parishes. ' Were it for no other cause, the owners of landed propeHy would find it no loss in the end, to be at the expense of providing better accommoda- tion for their labourers, than in too many instances that class of the community are found in possession of. It is painful to see the industrious labourer confined to the same miserable hut that shel- tered its ragged inmates of former generations. It is to be hoped, however, that the cottages of the hinds and Fabourers of East Lo- thian will not much longer remain the solitary exception to that enlightened improvement that has so fortunately marked the pro- gress of events in every corner of the country, during the last half century. Friendly societies are frequently to be found among the labourers ; and such institutions, that teach them to trust to their own resources, are highly deserving of every encouragement. A complete change, as may be seen from the tenor of the pa- rochial Reports, has taken place gradually in the public senti- ment, with regard to being put on the parish poor roll. Abstract of Table by Alfred John List, Superintendent of Police, Haddingtonshire, shewing thenumberof Males and Females con- victed, and by whom tried, for offences committed in the County and Burghs of East Lothian, from 1st January to31st December, 1836 :— UKNEUAL UllSBKVATIONS. Naluti.' i-f Ota-nci^.. ^•3 ^ IF sill Total. AnmiiIU, ulutlUuI. Allowing l>iK« I" "ray ...iWieeU llreuch aribc|JiH«.v, Uo. of du Ik-CIIM, IMbrcing sberiff-olHcBia, . Uruiikcuiiuu and ItiuE, lb. ilJn:i1, .M. F. 3 ... -1- 14 -.. M. 5 "i "c "i ■I -24 f. ::: "a M. F. "l ... :;; 1 M. 9 8 2 "2 "7 F. "i "i "2 ":i ill M. 5 9 "7 S 1 "l S 4 r. "2 "i 1 8 2i * iis ... s ... 13 S 1 '.'.'. 2 ... 1 S I ... m ... I .:. 14 ": a ... J ... i ... I ... 93 IS 4 I ! ... 62' 27 iM^vuiit >'U[U. i.<.ntt..'»<]cd, . Not eUDliiiinH s di^ to tlii-cun, PDulung at iiifibt. Do. aeday, - . liiot, .... ItL-scuini; iiriwnurs friiin »IKa.-n. Shooung vi[h Uncat, ThL'ft, ... VuB runts, Window Lrwilting. WJlJ'ul liuinulitioii ul' [)ro|iLTIj, ■n,i.,i. The iiiimbcr of iiiilividiials annually convicted of offences by the civil authoritie.^, as shewn by the above table, is greatly beyond wI1.1t tlie people generally have any idea of, the oflenders being nearly US) one in every hundred of the whole inhabitants. Fortunately, liuwoer, a considerable proportion of the^e offences have been of n minor character, sncli as furtouti driving, leaving carts, and graz- ing cattle on road sides. A few years since, the people of the coun- try were much unnoyed by numerous bands of gipsies and Irish, (vitli too many of the rliaractenstics and projjcusities of gipsies, who were to be found encamped during great part of the year in almost every retired road and lane in the county, and, being tole- rated for a time, their numbers increased with a rapidity almost in- conceivable. Such hordes were literally nurseries of thieves. Very soon, however, after the evil became obvious, a most efficient remedy was provided by the appointment of Ihe present xiinenn- icndaut of police. ON THK COUNTl' OP HADDINGTOX. 11 II •3 !-3S iS : i iSSKS : _,-f C -c ^ E e ==..l|.-„ il ; : : il ifsi :§ i : i|||| piilifpiifniiip « pill i|if III If ilJ ir.iODISdTOS. OENEUAL OBSERVATIONS Table II. Showing the State of the PooF) &c PBrishes. 1 If 1 j 1 , u u J |i 1 1 < 1 £ i Is s. d. L. ~, d L. s. d L. i. d. TT ■. i Nearly •e»6- 160 1 Bi 50 to 'go 100 0800 900 l-37tl. 5833 raL m I 7| 15 iia) 135 ffll-55ih 1760 3 Whitek{rk, 2( 25 01 Ntmc. itm 1050 130 d^l 16 1 10 21 (1 25 55 100 (^l-43d 686 1 Wliiim^liBin, 17 1 74 4 70 as 1.42d 715 Du.,..r, 103 1 ti 75 450 1 ■413th 4735 1 RsrvuM, 7 1 6 80 i-5sa 914 2 Humlii,.., 8 1 9 1S~0 75 tf 90 t l-48th B75 twllo.1, 5 1 9 18 10 GO 90 1-53d 794 "s Ormiatoii, 15 1 9 10 a 70 85 0I-57lh 858 YMer, IS 1 6 DO ( 50 None. 110 C|. 58(11 1050 GLclnmuir, 4t 1 11} Ifi 16 IG5 ( 200 1.40th 1656 3 Oirleton, ii 1 10 84 ( M 129 n 1-57.1. 1431 a Spot. 14 1 4 G 5 50 1) 60 0j[.44th 61^ laaawick. 18 50 tJflth 967 Aberlady, as 1 8 25 "o 4 65 100 l^l-4Sd 973 2 Preston pans. 80 31 300 C Ml 01.32d 25O0 S Traoent, 105 1 4 15 440 455 ( l-86lh 3650 3 PHicnitland, *_ r rtlj P«nl Partly. l-37tli 1180 Bolton, t 1 4 p ^tlj Pnrllj Parlly. 26 8 l.706 IIADDINGTONSniRE. Deer'- horn found in the Peffer, 206 Defeat of LtfElie at DiuiW, 74, 226 De Q'iinry, family of, 202 — tabular «mn. iriar>' of, ±2:1 — (r^?,xlv, ruins of, 2l>8— villa;:e, ■J'l.J. 21 G Di^iea-c-, prevalent, 4;J Di«-<;ntC'r- and Dii»M.'ntin{: chapeK 14, •2«, 4M, .r2.(;o, on, 104, 148, 196, -247, •2.iH. ;i rfx:k, the, 72 Doonhill, the, 224— battle of, 74. 226, Douglas of Lmif^iddr%', family of, 1 79 Dou^'las Kev. Kobert,':M8 Douglas, >^ir William, tomb of, 79 Draining, '^-Htems of. 9, 53, ^, 1 19, 191, 215, 267, ;M7, .*i52 Drem, establi*«hmriit of the Knights TemplarH at, 4.J Dryburn water, tho, 71 Dunliar, Uttle of, 74, 226— castle, 70 — history of, 77, 7H — churrh, 79 — houhe, f¥i Dunbar, parish of, 70— town of, 75, 87 burnt by King Kenneth, 75 — by the English, 7(} — shipj>ing and trade of, 8fj— harbour, 88 Dunl/ar, William, the poet, 109 KagleKcairnie house, 274 Eastlianis, \illage of, H8 GrdeHiahtictil htutistirg, 14, 25, 39, 51, 59, GH, 89, 98, 104, 121, 147, KHJ, 195, 216. 2:H, 247. 258, 269, 278, 301,313, ;W9, 353,356 Kdinken'K bridge, remains of, 242 Kduration, Mtatibtir^ of, 15, 26, 40, 52, W), OH, «», 98, 104, 124. 148, 169, 196, 219, 2.31, 247, 258, 270, 279, 301,314,:M1, :)5.%35<> Edwin fund, for relief of the i>oor of North I)en%-ick, :M3 F^lbottle, ruiuH of nunneiy at, 211 ElphingHtone tower, ruins of, 293 — \il- lagc, 2f)9 ElvingHton house, 192 Fairie'M rastle, the, 2.'Vi Fall, Captain, IiIk attiiek on Dunbar, 75 Pall, family of, 77 FalHyde tower, ruins of, 292 Fnwienry water, 62 Fentoii tower, ruins of, 333 — >nllage of, 216 Fisheries, oyster, 312 — salmon, 25 — sea. 85, 297, .338 Heteher of Sal ton, 113 Fountainliall, Ijord, :U0 Vox man -of- war, loss of, 72 Fruer of Tweeddale, family of» 45 Freestone, see Qnuriei Fuel, 41, 60. 93, 128» 153. 172, 24& 260, 281. aoa S44 Gardiner, Colonel, death of, 29S Garleton hills, the, 3 Ganrald and Ban, united parishef oi^ 95 Garvmld, ancient camps at, 96— Tilkge of, 96 Geology and mineralogy, S, 19, 31, 43^ 62. 71, 101, 108, 131. 174, 205^ 225^ 235, 251, 262, 272, 283^ 305, 900 Geology and minen^ogy, geneial re- marks on, 359 Giflbrd church, 166— vill^e, 154, 165 .—water, 154 Gifford, family of, 157 Gilmerton house, 48 Gladsmuir, parish of, 173 ■ehoolhome struck by lightning, 201 Golf club, the, of North Benrid, 334 Gol^n church, ruins of, 210 Gosford house, 252 Gourky, David, bequest by, for poor of Haddington, 16 Gulanc hill, 205— village of, 203, S16 Haddingtonshire, genual o b se i t ali oiii on, .356 — agriGulture, 389 criminil statistics, 380— eariy history, 353^ geology, 359— hills, 356— past and present state, 375 — rivers, 359 Haddington, parish of, 1 Haddington, town of, 4, 13— church, 13— market, 14— municipal aflUn, 1.3— twice destroyed by fire, 8 Hailes castle, ruins of, 21 Hairlaw, lime quarries and kilns of, 176 Hamilton of Preston, family of, 308 Hamilton, Robert, leader of the Cove- nanters at HothwcU, 308 Hatteraick the wizard, traditions regard- ing, 188 Hay of Yester, family of, 158 Hi*athenviek house, 80 Hepburn, Sir John, 46— Sir Adam, 101 Hcriot, George, birth-place of, 182 Hermanston chapel, ruins of, 115 Hobgolilin ball, the, at Yester, 157 Holly hedges, the, of Tvnningharae, 36 Home, Alexander, mortification by, 343 Home, the author of Douglas, 47 Home, George, Lord High Treasuier, 76 — his monument in Dunbar church. 76 Hopes, the mansion-house of, 96 Hopetoun, family of, 139 House of Muir, village of, 149 Humbie, parish of, 100 Hume the grammarian, 309 Huntingdon house, 6 IxVDEX. 387 Innerwick castle, ruins of, 240 — parish of, 2dd-»viUage, 233, 246 InDes, Rev. James, 161 Inns and their effects, 27, 94, 98, 123, 152, 201, 232, 248, 260, 270, 303, 315, 343, 354 Keith house, 102 Kdlo, Rev. John, executed for murder, 226 Kilspindy castle, ruins of, 252 Kingston, village of, 216 Kisthill weU, 225 Knights Templars, establishment of, at Drem, 45 Knox, birth-place of, 6, 158 — tutor to Douglas of Longniddry, 179 Knox*s kirk, ruins of, 194 Lady's well, the, 31 Lammermuir hills, the, 100, 154 Lauder of the Bass, family of, 332 Lawhead hill, 29 Laurencehouse, village of, 4 Lennoxlove or Lcthington, 5 Letfaam house, 6 Leuchie house, 333 Libraries and literature, 16, 27, 53, 60, 90, 126, 150, 199, 220, 248, 280, 341 Libraries, itinerating, 17 Limestone and kilns, see Quarries Linton linn, 19 — village of, 18 Live-stock, breeds* of, 24, 33, 82, 97, 103, 144, 163, 190, 229, 244, 337, 352 Livingstone of Saltcoats, origin of the fa- mily of, 44, 209 Lochend house, 80 Longevity, instance of, in Bolton, 272 Longniddry, village of, 193 Long Yester, village of, 165 Loss of the Fox frigate, 72 Luffness house, 252 Maitland, Secretary, residence of, 5, 8 Blaitland, Sir Richard, 8 Major, John, birth-place of, 324 Markets and fairs, 14, 93, 172, 343 Markle monastery, ruins of, 21 Meadowmill, village of, 299 Mechanics* Institution of Haddington, 15 Meikle, Andrew, inventor of the thrashing-machine, 21 Meteorology, see Climate Millbum water, 318 Milton, Lord, 114 Mineralogy, see Geology Monynut water, 235 Morham, parish of, 261 Mortifications, various, for the poor of Dirleton, 218 Newton, village of, 165, 353 Nisbet, Dr Charies, 160— of Dirleton, fiunily of, 208— Sir John, 212 North Berwick, parish of, 317 — abbey 326— law, 3, 318 . North Berwick, town of, 322, 338— bar. hour 338^ old kirk, 328— prison, 343 Northfield house, 310 Nunneries, ruins of, Elbottle, 211 — North Berwick, 326 Nunraw house, 96 Oldhamstocks, parish of, 355— village, 356 Orme, family of, 135 Ormiston, parish of, 130, — ^hall, 134 — yew tree at, 135 — village of, 145 — British camp at, 142 — collieries of, 131 Paiston, villages of, 142, Paple monastery, ruins of, 66 Paul Jones appears off Dunbar, 75 Pauperism, see Poor Peffer bum, 44 — >'ale of, 1 Penshiel house, ruins of, 66 Pencaitland, collieries of, 346 — parish of, 344 — ^villages of Easter and Wes- ter, 350, 353 Penston, collieries of, 174 — village of, 194 Pentcox, village of, 59 Pictishcamp at Salton, 115 — remains at Drem, 50 Plantations and planting, 1, 35, 74, 103, 130, 177,238 Plantations, the holly of Tynninghame, 36 Poor, management of the, 16, 27, 40, 53, 60, 68,91,99, 104, 128, 151, 171, 200, 220, 232, 248, 259, 270, 280, 302, 315, 342, 354, 356 Population, character of, 11, 23, 32, 54, 67, 81, 117, 143, 186, 213, 228, 254, 295, 311, 351 Population returns, 9, 22, 32, 50; 57, 66 80, 97, 102, 116, 142, 161, 186, 213, 227, 243, 254, 275, 294, 311, 334. 350,356 Portseton, village of, 297, 299 Pressmennan house, 55 — ^lakc, 56 Prestunkirk, parish of, 118 Preston, Sir Michael, execution of, 209 Preston, battle of, 293, 307— castle, 310 — cross, 310— village of, 309 Prestonpans, parish of, 304 Priestlaw, ancient camp at, 65 Quarries, freestone, 55, 62, 85, 119, 177, 205, 225, 296 337, 346, 368, —limestone, 85, 119, 133, 155, 176, 237, 245, 338, 347, 365— whinstone, 177, 205 Rabbit warrens at GiUane, 214 Records of Haddington, extracts from, 6 RedcoU house, 185 388 HADDINGTONSHIRE^ Redhouse castle, ruins of, 252 Rennie of Phantassie, 21 — John, tht ci- vil- engineer, birth-place of, 21 Rent of land, 24, 34, 67, 97, 103, 117, 144, 162, 191, 267, 277, 295, 351 Robertson, Principal, minister of Glads- muir, 182 — tree planted by, 178 Rockvillc house, 333 Roman camps on Bolton muir, 274 — near Spott, 227 — remains at Drem, 50 Rudewell, the, 56 St Baldred, 88— settles at Tynning- hame, 38 St Germains, mansion house of, 293 St Laurence house, village of, 4 St Martin's chapel, ruins of, 14 Salt Greens of Tynninghame, 30 Saltpans at Preston, 313 — Tranent, 298 Salton hall, library at, 126 Sal ton, parish of, 106 — patronage of, 122--Pictish camp at, 115, — villages of East and West, 121, — water, 107 Samuelston, village of, 193 Sandstone, see Quarries Savings Banks, 16, 27, 220 Schaw's hospital, 383 Schools, see Education. Scougall, Bishop, llO^Henry, 110 Seton, family of, 290 Seton church, ruins of, 291 — Palace, ruins of, 292 SeaclifTe house, 31 Shipping belonging to Dunbar, 87 Skateraw chapel, ruins of, 243 Skirving, Archibald, the portrait painter, 47 Smeaton house, 22 Society, the agricultural, of East Lothi- an, 15 Societies, friendly, 15, 27, 60, 91, 99, 127, J99, 223, 232, 258, 302, 314, 341 — Religious and charitable, 15, 124, 148, 167, 196, 301 Spartledown hill, 55 Spott, parish of, 224 — house, 227 — Ro- man camps near, 227 — village, 231 — water 225 Springs, 56, 107— mineral, 4, 131 Stafch, potato, manufiicture of, 230 Stenton, parish of, 55— church, 57 — ^vil- lage, 59 Stevenson house, 5 StieU'8 Hospital, 301, 302 Stone coflSns found at Athel«taneford, 49— at Seton, 185 Stoneypath hill, 61 — ^tower, ruins of, 65 Sydserf hill, 42 — house, ruins of, SSO Tantallan castle, history and ruinfl of, 319,328 Templehall, ancient bmying ground at, 142 Thornton castle, ruins of, 241 — water, 235 Thomtonloch, village of, 233, 246 Tile factories at Aberlady, 255— Gif- ford, 163— Salton, 120 Tranent, parish of, 282— collieries, 288 —village of, 299 Traprain law, 3, 18 Tumuli, ancient, at Newlands, 96 Tyne river, 2, 19, 30, 131, 359— floods of, 2 Tyneside games, the, 15 Tynninghame church, ruins of, 39 Vauz, &mily of, 207 Wages, rates of, 10, 24, 35, 59, 82. 1 18, 191, 216, 229, 244, 268, 295, 336 Westbams, encampment at, 75— villaee of, 88 Whale, the great, cast ashore at North Berwick, 334 Whitburgh house, 102 Whitcasde, ruins of, 96 Whitekirk and Tynninghame, united pa- rishes of, 29 Whitekirk church, 39— hill, 29 Whittadder river, 62 Whittinghame castle, 65 — house, 65 parish of, 61— village, 61— water, 61 Winton house, ruins of, 48 ^last Earl of, 349 Wishart, capture of, at Ormiston, 136 Witches, commission forjudging, 187 Witherspoon, Rev. John, 159 Wood, Andrew, Bishop of the Isles, 76 Woods, see Plantations. Yester, castle of, 157— parish of, 153 Zoology, 20, 251, 289, 305, 321 PRINTED BY JOUK 8TABK, OLD ASSEMBLY CLOSE, EDINBURGH. BERWICK. CONTENTS. ABBEY ST KATHANS, AT TON, BUNKLE AND PRESTON, CIIANNELKIRK, CIIIRNSIDR, COCKBURNSPATII, COLDINGHAM, COLDSTREAM, CRANSIIAWS, DUNSE, BARLSTON, ECCLES, EDROM, EYEMOUTH, FOGO, FOUI.DEN, GORDON, r.HEENLAW, IIUTTON, LADYKIRK, LANGTON, LAUDER, LEGERWOOD, LONGFORHACUS AND ELLISI, MERTON, MORDI.NGTON, NENTIIORN, FOL^VARTH, ST BAT HANS, SWINTON AND SIMFRIK, WESTRUTHER, WniTSOME AND HILTON, I AGE 105 130 114 88 124 290 279 199 99 24G 18 50 266 318 223 261 33 40 150 181 236 1 347 93 26 337 215 231 105 186 63 166 PARISH OF LAUDER. PRESBYTERY OF LAUDER, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TIVIOTDALE. THE REV, PETER COSENS, MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History, Name^ Boundaries. — It cannot be doubted that the town of Lauder gave its name to the parish, and that the town derived its name from that of the river, near to which it is situated. This is, indeed, now, and has long been, called Leader water ; but since it is termed Lauder by Camden in his Britannia, and the vale through which it flows has, from time immemorial, been termed Lauder- dale, its more ancient, and, probably, its original name was Lauder. The etymology of Leader, or Lauder, is traced by certain antiqua- ries to Laiidur^ a Celtic word, denoting the lesser river ^ or the river which breaks forth. And, accordingly, the Leader, though it be a comparatively small stream, swelled, as it occasionally is, by tor- rent? from the neighbouring hills, rises rapidly, bursts its banks, and floods its fertile haughs. In point of area, the parish of Lauder seems to be the largest in Berwickshire. The distance between its northern and southern confines is not less than 13 miles. This, however, is somewhat more than its absolute length ; for toward the south it is complete- ly intersected to the extent of 1^ mile, by an angular part of the lands of Blainslie, which belong to the parish of Melrose, and the county of Roxburgh. Its entire length, then, is 11^ miles. Its greatest breadth is 8 or 9 miles, and its medium breadth about 5, so that its extent is nearly 58 square miles. On the north and north-west it is bounded by Gifford and Channelkirk ;. on the west and south-west by Stow and Melrose ; on the south and south- east by Melrose, Earlston, and Legerwood ; and on the east and north-east by Westruther, Longformacus, and Cranshaws. Topographical Appearances. — The parish is of an irregular oblong figure. Two-thirds of it are moorish and hilly. Its northern limits, for several miles, are formed by the Lammermoor hills, one of which, called Lammerlaw, the highest in the parish, is about 1500 feet BERWICK. A 2 BERWICKSHIRE. above the level of the sea. Connected with those of Lammermoor, and extending in a south-east direction on each side of the Leader, are ranges of hills of a moderate height, to the summits of which cultivation has been pushed, and in which there are various open- ings to the east and the west. Between the ranges lies Leader vale, varying from one to two miles in width, and in which is to be found the best land in the parish. Meteorology. — In the spring months, and sometimes in May, the prevailing winds are from the east, and are for the most part attended with drought and cold weather. During the rest of the year they blow more frequently from the south and south-west. In a dry summer it has often been observed, that the clouds, af- ter collecting apparently above the higher districts of Tweed or Ettrick, are attracted by the Lammermoor hills on the north, or the Cheviot on the south, and diflFuse their refreshing showers on either of these places, leaving the intermediate regions, especially in the lower parts of the parish, in a parched state. The climate, though variable, is, on the whole, salubrious. To its influence no epidemical disorders can be traced. Agues and consumptive com- plaints were at one time rather prevalent, -but the* former have long ago disappeared, and the latter are now very circumscribed in their ravages. Hydrography. — The parish is generally well supplied with pe- rennial springs of excellent water, some of which issue from whin- stone rock, and others from sand or gravel. The principal river is the Leader, which has its source in the junction of two rivulets descending from the hills of Lammermoor, about four miles above the town of Lauder. To the extent of nine or ten miles it winds its course through the parish, and about nine miles below Lauder it mingles its waters with the Tweed at Drygrange. It runs with considerable rapidity, and in a south-east direction, affording good sport to the angler. The localities on the banks of this stream have been celebrated in the old Scottish song of ^^ Leader haughs and Yaftow." Geology. — On the rising grounds to the south-west of the Leader there is an inexhaustible supply of rock (whinstone) of very excellent quality, which is used for building, as well as for making the turn- pike roads, and is equally adapted for both these purposes. The Boil is much diversified. In general that of the arable land is light and dry, peculiarly fitted for turnip husbandry ; a good deal of it LAUDER. - , 3 is inclined to clay, and there is also a considerable quantity of rich loam upon a gravelly or sandy bottom. Botanj/. — Till lately there were but {e\f ptarUatians in the pa- rish. The oldest is Egrop or Edgarhope wood, comprehending about 100 acres. It is situated on the side of a hill, in the upper part of which grow chiefly the larch and the Scottish fir, while towards the bottom it abounds with oak, elm, and ash. In the park at Thirlstane Castle there are some remarkably fine hard- ' wood trees of great dimensions. An elm, the largest in the park, measures in girth, at three feet from the ground, fifteen feet. These trees are probably 150 years old. On the estate of the Earl of Lauderdale various new plantations, covering several hun- dred acresi and designed with much taste, have been recently exe- cuted, and appear to be thriving admirably. At Chapel, too, in the southern part of the parish, there are ninety acres under wood, fir, ash, oak, and beech, to the growth of which, especially of the two last species, the soil in that quarter is most congenial 11. — Civil History. Historical Notices. — From the chartularies of monasteries, and the title-deefls of certain estates, it appears that, as a kirk town, Lauder is as ancient at least as the reign of David I. ; that it, with its lands on Leader water, was granted by that monarch to Sir Hugh Moreville, constable of Scotland ; that his territorial rights descended to a long succession of heirs, chiefly females, who in- troduced the Lords of Galloway and the Baliols ; and that, when for their political delinquencies these were deprived of their estates, Lauder and its territory became the property of Sir James Doug- las, and afterwards of the Earl of Angus. The lands of Thirlstane in the parish were granted by Sir Hugh Moreville to one of his friends, whose grand-daughter, the heiress of Thirlstane, married Sir Richard Mautaland or Maitland, the ancestor of the present noble family of Maitland, to which the greatest part of the parish now belongs. In former times, Lauderdale, which now forms one of the three large divisions of the county, was a separate legality, or almost independent jurisdiction, under the name of a Bailiary. The town of Lauder is the only royal burgh in the county. Its original charter having been destroyed, it obtained from James IV., in 1502, a new charter, which was confirmed by an act of Parlia- ment dated the 28th June 1633. Lauder has also been the seat of the presbytery of the bounds since the year 1768> — the former seat, Earlston, being inconvenient for the accommodatvovsi q»^ n^^^ 4 BKRWICKSHIUE. nieiiibers. It must be well known to most readers of Scottish his- tory, that about the end of July 1482, when James III. and his army were encamped in the vicinity of Lauder, the nobles held in the old church their celebrated conferences, which terminated in the murder of six of the king's minions, whom they hanged over a bridge crossing the Leader, a little below Thirlstane castle. Maps J Sfc. — A map of Lauderdale was sketched in the reign of Charles I. by Mr Timothy Pont, son of the famous Rev. Robert Pont, and is to be found in Blaeu's Atlas Scotiae. Since that pe- riod, surveys of the county, including Lauderdale, have been made by various respectable individuals. In a large map of Berwick- shire, surveyed in 1825 and 1826, and published by Thomas Sharp and Company, London, the boundaries of this parish, with its prin- cipal localities, seem to be distinctly and correctly delineated. Eminent Men, — Among various distinguished persons connect- ed with the parish by residence, may be reckoned Sir John Mait- land. Lord Thirlstane, who was successively Lord Privy Seal, Se- cretary of State, and Chancellor of Scotland, in the reign of James VI. As chancellor, he accompanied the King in his matrimonial excursion to Denmark, where he became intimately acquainted with the celebrated Tycho Brahe. He was a very able and up- right statesman, and, by the wise exercise of his high political and moral influence, he contributed, in no small degree, to promote the peace and prosperity of the National Church. In the end of the year 1595, when on his deathbed, he was visited by Andrew Melville, along with his nephew, Bruce, one of the ministers of Edinburgh, and the conversation which he then held with them, was most satisfactory to his visitors. " Thd loss of this excellent statesman was quickly felt by the nation, ^d must be viewed as a principal means of bringing on the evils with which the church was soon after assailed." The King, too, extremely regretted his death, and honoured him with an epitaph of his own composition. It is not perhaps very generally known, that Mr James Guthrie, the first of our presby terian ministers who suffered unto death after the Restoration for his intrepid adherence to the cause of truth, was for some time minister of this place. He was settled at Lau- der in 1638, appears to have been translated to Stirling in 1649, and was martyred at Edinburgh in 1661. Land-oivners. — The chief land-owners are the Earl of Lauder- dale, the Marquis of Tweeddale, Lord Maitland, Adam Fairholme, LALDER. 5 Esq. of Chapel, Hugh Scott, Esq. of Harden, Alexander Allan, Esq. of Muircleugh, and the community of Lauder. Parochial Registers. — Of the state of the parochial registers no satisfactory account can be given. The register narrating the pro- gress of discipline and church censures commenced in 1677, and was regularly continued till the 27th August 1688: then it has a chasm till April 1707, when it is again filled up for nearly two years, after which it exhibits another blank till May 1733, since which period the proceedings of the session are regularly recorded. The register of births and baptisms is equally defective, for in some years the entries are numerous, in some they are very few, and in others they are entirely omitted. This, though it now contain a complete list of the children baptised to members of the Established church, is still imperfect, in consequence of the general neglect or refusal of dissenters to insert in it the names of their children. Hitherto there has been no register of burials, but it is resolved that this shall be the case no longer. The register of marriages has been well kept for a considerable number of years. Antiquities, — Under this head is to be noticed a Roman road, the line of which has been distinctly traced through a considerable part of the parish, and is in various places still perceptible. It passes a little to the west of the town of Lauder, and proceeds towards the manse of Channelkirk. — Near this ancient road, on Lauder hill, are the remains of a military station, and about two miles north from this, on an elevated spot at Blackchester, are the vestiges of an oval camp, having one entrance on the east and another on the west, . and fortified by two ditches and mounds of earth. — A camp of similar form and of larger dimensions is traced on Tollis or Tullius hill, in the northern extremity of the parish. Spanish, Scottish, and English coins have been dug up, some of which Dr Ford, the former minister, had in his possession, as well as several Roman coins inscribed with the names of Julius Caesar, Lucius Flaminius, and others. — Many tumuli are to be seen on Lauder moor, near the old road to Melrose, where battles had pro- bably been fought, as fragments of swords, bows, and arrows have there been found. The arrows were pointed with flint stone, ta- pering from the juncture, about an inch long. In the vicinity of Lauder, on the banks of the Leader, stands Thirlstane Castle, for- merly styled Lauder Fort. According to tradition, it ^was origi- nally erected by Edward I. during his invasion of Scotland ; cer- tain it is that it was built or rebuilt hv CVv^xvq,^N\»\ '^^^5^s^.^A^ "wx^ 6 BERWICKSHIRK. subsequently improved by the Duke of Lauderdale. It is a spa- cious and massy edifice, having some stately apartments decorated in the best taste of the age of Charles II., and is surrounded by a park, which, being recently enlarged and beautified, is now much admired. In concluding these historical notices, the writer may here re- mark, that there is no reason whatever to suppose, as has been done by Dr Ford in his Statistics, that the church of L#auder was ori- ginally a chapel of ease attached to Channelkirk, and that it was not raised to the dignity of a church till the era of the Reforma- tion ; for, in the oldest records, it is represented as a separate church. In the ancient taxation it was valued at ninety merks, and that of Channelkirk only at forty. To this it may be added, that Lauder, as a mother church, had formerly two chapels of its own, — one at Kedslie, and another at St Leonards. III. — Population. Respecting the ancient state of the population of the parish, no information is to be obtained, on the accuracy of which dependence can be placed. It is supposed by some that the population in the country district was greater in the olden time than it is at present, as formerly the farms were comparatively small, and more hands were employed in cultivating them. Certain it is, that the births in the whole parish were, a century and a-half ago, more nume- rous than they are now. It appears from the register, that in 1682, 1683, 1686, and 1687, the yearly average entries were 66, whereas now the average births exceed not 54. But since there is no register of deaths for these years, from the above statement no just inference in regard to the total population can be deduced. Considering the present more improved mode of living, and other circumstances which affect health and longevity, it may be pre- sumed that the population is now as large at least as it ever was in more ancient times. According to the census of 1821, the population was 1841, and in 1831, it was 2063. This increase of 222 may be caused in a great measure by the greater demand for labour, to aid in prose- cuting various agricultural improvements in the neighbourhood of Lauder, as well as in road-making. The population residing in the town of Lauder is 1075, and in the country, 988. The villages being small, and inhabited almost solely by farm-servants, the po- pulation of these is included in that of the country part of the parisli. LAUDER. 7 One nobleman occasionally resides at his seat of Thirlstane Cas* tie, and two families of independent fortune statedly reside in the parish. The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, is 9. 1. Number of families in the parish, ... 430 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 203 trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 119 professional and other educated men, - - - 25 2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 35 women, including widows, upwards of 45, 46 a. The average number of births yearly, - - . . 54 of deaths, - - - . - 41 of marriages, - . . . ]4 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - - * 730 upwards of 70, - - - 87 There are three persons fatuous, and one blind in the parish. During the last three years there have been nine or ten illegiti- mate births. Habits and Character of the People, — It may be affirmed of the people, on the whole, that they enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the comforts and advantages of society, and that they are contented with their situation ; as one indication of which it may be stated, that few families in the parish, — not more than four or iBve, — have, in recent times, emigrated from the land of their fathers. Their character is, no doubt, as in every other place, considerably diversi- fied, some being neither wise nor good ; but, in general, they are well informed, — orderly in their conduct, — and observant of the ordinances of religion. Poaching, though instances of it may be occasionally detected, is not prevalent ; and smugglhig does not seem to exist. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The number of imperial acres in the parish is 37,753. Of these 12,060 are either cultivated, or occasionally in tillage, and 25,043, never having been cultivated re- main waste, or in pasture. Several hundred acres might, with a pro- fitable application of capital, be added to the cultivated land, and afterwards kept in occasional tillage, or in permanent pasture ; but perhaps there is very little of the waste lands which would yield to the figtrmer a fair remuneration for their improvement during the currency of an ordinary lease. In a state of undivided common, there are 2381 acres, of which 686, in the higher grounds of Lam- mermoor, are the joint property of the Marquis of Tweeddale and the Earl of Lauderdale, and are depastured by the sheep of their tenants ; and 1695, outfield land, belong to the conjocatiftw^^ Vsaxs.- 8 BERWICKSHIRE. der. The number of acres under wood (little of which is natural) is 650. The trees commonly planted are Scotch and spruce iSrs, larch, oak, ash, beech, elm, birch, poplar, and willow. . In the bame pku>- tat ion there is a mixture of trees, which are planted thick, for the purpose of affording shelter as they grow up. They are in general regularly and carefully pruned and thinned ; and from time to time numbers of them are cut for forming paling, roolSng houses, or making implements of husbandrj'. Rent of Land, — The rent of arable land varies from L.3 to 6s. per acre; the average of the whole may be 16s. The average rent of grazing a cow or full-grown ox in summer is L. 3, and of foddering it in winter, L. 1 ; and that of grazing for the year a sheep is, for the black-faced, 5s., for the Cheviot, 8s. and for the Leicester, 18s. Of grazing the three breeds overhead, 8s. may be stated as a fair average rent. Rate of Wages. — Hinds, who form the most numerous class of farm-servants, and who are engaged for the year, are generally paid in money, oatmeal, barley, a cow's-keep, potatoes planted, and several small perquisites, all of which may be fairly computed at 9s. per week, or L. 23, 8s. per year. Each hind is bound to keep a woman servant called a bondoffery to work at hay, turnips, &c. during the summer half year, at lOd. per day, without board. Single men-servants receive in tlie half year from L. 4, 4s. to L. 5, 5s. with board; women from L.4, 4s. to L.5, 5s. in summer, and in winter, from L. 1, 12s. to L. 2, 2s. with board and washing ; common day labourers 9s. in winter, and 10s. in summer, per week, in liay and corn harvest, about the same wages, with the addition of board. Masons and carpenters get at the rate of 12s. per week, with victuals. Blacksmith work is generally done by contract, at L. 3 per annum for each pair of horses, including, besides shoeing the horses, all repairs on the ploughs, (excepting the cast metal used,) harrows, grapes, forks, &c. Breeds of Live-Stock, — The sheep most generally kept are of the Cheviot breed. On two or three of the highest farms the black- faced are kept, and numbers of the Leicester kind are depastured on the lower improved lands. Sheep of the last kind rising one year old receive turnips from three to five months, in winter and spring; the ewes receive turnips three or four weeks before they be- gin to lamb, after which they are put on the young grasses. In some instances, the Cheviot and the black-faced ewes are put to Leices- LAUDEn. 9 ter tups, and their produce is sold in lambs, but the cross thus ob- tained is never used for breeding. Of cattle^ the common breed is the short-homed or Teeswater. It is thought by some intelligent farmers, that, if a smaller^breed of cows were kept, such as the Kyloe, or some of the other north- em varieties, and a good Teeswater bull, this cross would pay bet- ter, as a greater number of cows could be kept, and of calves rear- ed, which would more than compensate for the larger size, and the superior prices of the others. The young cattle in winter and spring receive tumips from four to five months, along with straw, those rising three years are put on turnips in the middle of Oc- tober, are fed from three to six months, and sold fat, to go to the market of Edinburgh or Morpeth. Such of the farmers (but they are not many) as do not rear so many as they require for their grass and turnips, buy for that purpose the Angus and West- Highland cattle, in nearly equal proportions. Husbandry. — The general character of the husbandry pursued is not inferior to that of the husbandry of any part of the country. The outfield arable lands are, for the most part, allowed to remain two or three years in grass, when they are taken up for a crop of oats, succeeded by plain fallow or turnips, with manure ; the third year they are cropped with oats or barley, with which perennial grass seeds are sown, after which they are subjected to a similar rotation of management The irifield lands are not seldom crop- ped in the ^Mr-shift rotations, (oats, tumips, barley, grass,) a system which, although it be not the best, necessity obliges the farmers to adopt. The greater part of the land being light soil, well adapted for turnip culture, large quantities of that valuable root are raised annually, of which one-half is white, and the other half yellow, and ruta baga. The husbandry would doubtless be im- proved by keeping the arable lands longer under pasturage, and by consuming more of the turnips upon the ground by sheep ; to which, however, the climate and want of shelter in many places operate as hindrances. Most of the land susceptible of aration has been reclaimed by draining, — by frequent ploughing and harrowing, — and by liming at the rate of ten single horse carts per acre. The arable land in various parts of the parish still needs to be more thoroughly drain- ed. On the farms where Cheviot sheep are kept, the wet grounds have been much improved by small surface drains, fifteen inches wide, and nine inches deep, wfiich cost owe ^i^ww^ \wt ivkXxsNRss^ 10 BERWICKSHIUE. yards. Irriyation^ though it be here unknown, might be advanta- geously practised on several spots. Embanking is nearly confined to the policy grounds of Thirlstane Castle, but it would be de- sirable that this improvement should be extended along the whole course of the Leader, as from the circuitous course of the river, and the gravelly nature of the subsoil, considerable damage is oc- casionally done to the best lands in the parish. The duration of leases is almost universally nineteen years. When the farm requires to be limed all over, and much of it to be drained, it might be expedient that this period should be ex- tended to twenty-five years, to allow the tenant sufficient time to reap the full benefit of his outlay. The farm-buildings are, on the whole, good, and so also are the enclosures. Great and striking improvements, by draining, liming, and enclosing, have recently been made in the parish by various individuals, and, in particular, on the farms of Woodhead and Wyndhead, — the former occupied by the noble proprietor, the Earl of Lauderdale, and the latter by his son. Sir Anthony Mait- land, on both of which farms every species of improvement is ra- pidly advancing to the limits of perfection. On these farms, as well as on one lately let, belonguig to the Marquis of Tweeddale, superior office-houses have been erected, and the latter and Sir Anthony's have steam thrashing-machines, being the only machines of the description in this district of the county. There is still a considerable quantity of arable land unenclosed. This may be owing to the unsuitableness of the soil for growing thorns in some places, and to the want of building materials in others ; but now that whins or furze have been tried, and found to be no bad substitute for these, it is hoped that this defect will be speedily remedied. Produce. — As nearly as the writer has been able to ascertain, the average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish is as follows : Ofgraiii of all kinds, . . L. 14,082 Of potatoes and turnips, - . 5,428 Of hay, meadow and cultiTated, - 2,410 Of pasturage of cattle and sheep, - 7,S50 L. 29,270 0* Lauderdale Agricultural Society. — An association, termed the • Erery person must l>e aware that it is difficult to olitain a correct or even a nearW correct estimate of the raw produce raised in a parish of such great extent, and farmed by so many individuals. It is probable that the toul value of the pro- duce is greater than what is exhibited in the above statement. LAUDER. 11 Lauderdale Agricultural Society^ having for its object the improve- ment of the different breeds of stock, and improvements and dis- coveries in agriculture, in regard to tillage and the management of grass lands, as well as in all other matters connected with rural affairs, was established in 1830. The Earl of Lauderdale is pa- tron of the society,' and its funds are supported by his Lordship's very liberal subscription, and by the subscriptions of all the land- holders, and most of the tenants, in the district The funds, amounting to nearly L. 100, have been annually expended in pre- miums, awarded for the best specimen of breeding stock from any quarter. At the half-yearly meetings much excellent stock has been exhibited. The society is obviously fitted to exert a most beneficial influence on the improvement of the district. V. — Parochial Economy. Town. — The only town in the parish is Lauder, which is also a marhet-town. It has little or no trade, most of its inhabitants being small [Retailers, mechanics, day-labourers, or agriculturists. The police of the town is chiefly under the superintendence of the magistrates, who appoint a fiscal for the burgh, and occasionally hold bailie-courts for the determination of small debt cases, petty offences, &c. Formerly small debt courts were held monthly by the justices of the peace, but these are not now so regularly con- tinued, especially since the Sheriff small debt court came into ope- ration. In the course of last summer (1833) several public-spi- rited individuals combined to establish in Lauder a weekly market for com, in order to accommodate the people in the district, and hitherto the scheme has met with some encouragement, but, as it is yet in its infancy, it would be premature to speak confidently of its ultimate success. The market-towns nearest to Lauder are, Kelso, distant seventeen, and Dalkeith, distant nineteen miles, to the last of which the farmers have been long accustomed to carry their com, and from the neighbourhood of which they bring home lime and coal. Means of Communication.-r-yery ample means of communica- tion are enjoyed by the parish. It has a post-office in the town, and a daily mail, brought by the curricle which runs through Lau- derdale between Edinburgh and London. It has two tumpike roads ; the one on the east side of Leader, (six miles long in the parish,) leading by Whitburn Inn to Greenlaw, Dunse, and Ber- wick, as well as to Coldstream and Kelso, and the other on the west side of the river, (eight miles long \tvl\\^ ^w:\^^\«^^^'^^» 12 BERWICKSHIRE. Melrose, to Jedburgh, and to Kelso by Earlston. On these roads travel five public carriages, which pass through Lauderdale, and four of them through Lauder, every lawful day to and from Edin- burgh, Dunse, Kelso, Newcastle, &c The two principal bridges cross the Leader, the one in the upper part of the parish, and the other a little to the east of Lauder. These, as well as the smaller bridges and the fences, are kept in good condition. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish churchy which formerly stood on the north of the town, fronting Thirlstane Castle, is now si- tuated close to the town on its south-west side. Its distance is eight miles from the northern extremity of the parish, and five from the southern extremity. It could not be more conveniently situated, as upwards of half the population reside in the town, while few^ of the people in the country have to travel to it more than three or four miles. It was built in the year 1673. Since that period it has undergone frequent repairs, the last of which was in 1820 ; and though from its form, which is that of a cross, it is found to be somewhat incommodious, especially during the celebration in it of the Lord's Supper, it is on the whole substan- tial and tolerably well fitted up. It needs much to be heated, by means of stoves, in winter. It can conveniently hold 850 persons. No free sittings in it are appropriated to the poor ; but all of this description who are willing to attend may be and are gratuitous- ly accommodated. A handsome benefaction of four silver com- munion cups, and of two massy silver flagons, was granted to the church in 1677 by the noble family of Lauderdale. The present manse was built in 1812. Of the glebe the extent is about nine acres, and the yearly value, now that it has been enclosed and much improved by the incumbent, may be L. 18. The sti- pend, as modified in 1816, is 17 chalders, one-half of which is oatmeal, the other half barley, payable by the highest fiars of the county. When it was afterwards locallcd, in consequence of the surrender of their teinds by the burgesses of Lauder and others, it was fixed at L. 67, lis. 9d. Sterling, and 217 bolls, half meal and half barley, 3 bolls of oats, and 2 of bear. The stipend of last year (1832) exclusive of L. 10 for communion elements, was pre- cisely L. 246, 3s. 4Jd. In the parish there were formerly two dissenting chapels. Anti- burgher and Burgher, which, in 1824, were merged into one, in con- nection with the L^nited Associate Synod. Its minister is paid from the seat rents and from Sabbath collections, the rent also of a small LAUDER. i;^ croft of laiid, and the interest of L. 100, both these being per- quisites bequeathed by friends to the chapel. The amount of his stipend is L. 100, with a house and garden. The number of fa- milies in connection with the Estabhshed church is did, and of persons of all ages connected with it, 1543. The dissenting cha- pel is frequented by persons from the neighbouring parishes of Westruther, Legerwood, Melrose, and Channelkirk, as well as from that of Lauder. It is seated to hold 400 people, and it is stated that 370 of the seats in it are let In this parish the dis- senters of all ages form about one^fourth of the total population. At the Established church, and at the chapel, divine service is ge • nerally, when the weather is favourable, well attended. The num- ber of communicants at the Established church is about 650. Religious Society. — In the parish a Bible and Missionary society was estabUshed in 1815, which, till 1832, contributed at an ave- rage yearly the sum of L. 17. Collections have also been made from time to time in the church in aid of the Scottish Missionary Society, and of the General Assembly's schools and Indian mis- sion, which collections last year amounted to L. 15, Os. 6d. It is proposed, agreeably to a recommendation of the presbytery of Lauder, that the General Assembly's educational and missionary schemes shall henceforth be supported by regular yearly collec- tions in the church, or by a parochial association, or by both these combined. Education. — In the parish there are four schools^ all in the town of Lauder ; one parochial, and three unendowed. The branches of instruction generally taught in two of these are, English read- ing, writing, arithmetic, geography, practical Ynathematics, Latin, French, and Greek. The other two schools, which are superin-* tended by ladies, are attended chiefly by girls, who, in addition to reading, writing, and arithmetic, are taught also sewing. The Bible is read frequently in each of the schools, and the shorter catechism, psalms, and hymns are repeated, and occasionally ex- plained. The parochial schoolmaster has the medium salary ( L.30 ) , and L.5 yearly given him by the magistrates of Lauder from the funds of the burgh, for teaching poor children. The other teachers are supported solely by the school fees, which, as well as the fees ex- acted by the parochial teacher, are, for reading, 2s. 6d. ; for read- ing and writing, 3s. 6d. ; for these, with arithmetic and practical mathmetics, 4s. 6d. ; and for the higher branches, 6s. per quarter. The general expense of education for the year^ iuelvAvcv^^^cv^"^'^^^ 14 IlKRWICKsniRK. of books, and of paper and other incidental payments, is, for read- ing, 13s. ; for writing and reading, 18s. ; for these, with arithme- tic, L. 1, 6s.; for Latin, Greek, and French, L.1, 12s. The pa- rochial teacher has rather niore than the legal house accommodap tion, and somewhat less than the legal extent of garden ground* Of the young betwixt six and ffteen years of age who cannot read or write, there are probably none, and of persons above fifteen years of age who cannot read, there is reason to believe that there are not more than two (cOged females,) whilst amongst those who are advanced in life there is doubtless a number, though compa- ratively small, who cannot write. The people in general are ali?e to the benefits of education, and evince that they appreciate these by sending their children to school at live or six years of age, and endeavouring to secure their attendance till they may acquire that useful learning which is necessary to fit them for discharging the duties of life, with credit to themselves, and advantage to society. At our parochial school were trained the present minister of Jed- burgh, the minister of Hope Park Chapel, the Rev. John Wilson, an ordained minister of the Established church, and an intelligent, indefatigable, and useful missionary, now labouring at Bombay, under the direction of the Scottish Missionary Society, a promis- ing young man about to receive license to preach the gospel, and a minister of the United Associate Synod. In those parts of the parish which are at a considerable distance from the town of Lauder, parents find it more convenient to send their children to the parochial school of Channelkirk, to a private school at Spottiswoode, in the parish of Westruther, or to another of the same description at Blainslie, in the parish of Melrose. About 50 of our children are educated at these seminaries, to two of which those of them who attend have to travel from 2 to 2^ miles. An additional school, taught at a hamlet in the country district of the parish, would doubtless be advantageous. The average number of children in the whole parish attending school is about dOO. Respecting the salutary influence of education there can be only one opinion ; and, since the means of this are here abundantly enjoyed, so they appear to be producing in a greater or less degree their usual beneficial effects on the moral habits and general welfare of the people. Library. — A subscription library has long existed in Lauder, in which the principal persons in the parish have shares. There is also one more recently formed for mechanics, together with two libraries LAUDEH. 15 furnished chiefly with religious books, which are lent to the young attending the Sabbath evening Schools, (of which there are two,) as "well as to persons more advanced in tge. Friendly Society, — A friendly society had been in the parish many years previous to 1814, when, in consequence of the ex- penses incurred by a litigation with one of its members, its funds were wasted, and the society dissolved. Another, the Brotherly Society of Free Masons, formed in 1772, still exists, having at pre- sent 82 brethren, and to such of them as are in distress, not ob- viously occasioned by their own immoral conduct, it affords seasoii- able pecuniary relief. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of persons at pre- sent receiving regular parochial relief is 22 ; of these, one, who is fatuous, receives 4s. per week ; one, old and feeble, ds. 6d. ; and another, with a young family, also ds. 6d. ; these sums being the highest weekly allowances given to any of our paupers. The remaining 19 get from Is. dd. to 2s. Including the three who re- ceive the highest sums, each pauper receives at an average per week about 2s. Id., or per year, L. 5, 8s. 4d., so that the whole of the enrolled poor receive at the rate of L. 119, ds. 4d. in the year. This expenditure is met by an assessment laid upon the heritors, who hold a meeting along with the minister and elders every hal( year, for the purpose of adjusting the roll and fixing the requisite supplies. The present annual assessment is L. 150, of which Lb30 are expended in the payment of house rent to several persons not yet taken on the roll, and of salary to the heritors' clerk, who col- lects the money and distributes it monthly. The church collec- tions (in 1832) L.d9, 17s., and the money derived from the use of mortcloths, L. 9, 5s. ; from use of a hearse, L. 6 ; and from the in- terest of L. 100, (mortified by the Rev. James Lindsay, a former minister of the parish,) L.4, amounting in all to L.59, 2s., are con- fided by the heritors to the sole disposal of the members of the session. From that sum they give to their clerk (who also provides a precentor) L. 5 yearly; to the beadle, L.2; to the presbytery and synod clerks, and to the presbytery officer, L.1. Of the balance, L.51, 2s., they give at each ofthehalfyearly meetings about L.16 in donations, varying from 5s. to 12s., to a considerable number of persons verging towards pauperism, and a part of it they allot from time to time to' the relief of such of the poor as may be in want, occasioned by the pressure of personal or domestic affliction. *From their funds they also defray the expense connected ^\lVv \Jcv^\sv«\^ 1() BERWirKSHIRE. of paupers, and sometimes aid poor strangers who are overtaken with calamity in travelHng from one place to another. It is an ob« ject steadily kept in viev^by the managers of our poor, to keep down as much as they can the legal assessment : and their efforts have not been altogether unsuccessful The assessment is indeed still considerable, but at no distant period it was larger ; for a num- ber of years it has been pretty stationary, and although there be some who feel not the least delicacy in demanding such support as the law may afford them, yet in general our poor do appear to con- sider it as rather degrading to seek parochial relief, and therefore do not seek it till they be involved in real indigence. Prison. — In Lauder there is a prison, containing three apart- ments, tolerably well-secured. It happily has seldom any inmates. In the course of last year a verj' few culprits were confined in it for a short period, on account of rioting or pilfering. Fairs, — Five fairs are annually held in the parish, the first in the beginning of March, at which seed-corn is sold by sample, and the farmers engage their hinds; the second in April, for hiring single servants of both sexes for the ensuing half year ; the third in June, at which a few cattle, chiefly milch cows, are sold ; the fourth in July, at which lambs are exposed to sale ; the fifth in Oc- tober, for the same purpose as the one in April. The principal are the hiring fairs in April and October. Inns J Sfc, — There are in the parish not fewer than 22 inns or public houses, 15 in the town and 7 in the country. Good would it be for the morals of the inhabitants, if the number of these (some of which are too often the haunts of folly and vice,) were greatly re- duced. At the same time, it is but fair to state, that drunkenness seems to be somewhat less prevalent than it was formerly. Fuel—The fuel burnt by a few of the people who reside in the hilly parts of the parish is peat or turf; but coal is almost univer- sally and solely used. It is brought from the neighbourhood of Pathhead, Mid- Lothian; its quality is generally good; but in con- sequence of the long carriage (14 or 15 miles) it costs the people, when laid down at their doors, about lOd. p^r cwt.^ Miscellaneous Observations. The appearance of the arable part of the parish is very much changed for the better since the period when the last Statistical Account was written. The lands are now far better cultivated by an intfelligent and industrious tenantry, while the landlords (espe- cially the principal one) have done much by draining, planting, LAUDER. 17 and enclosing, to add to the fertility of the soil, and improve the general aspect of the district Both the turnpike and the cross roads are decidedly superior to what they were formerly. Forty years ago, only one stage-coach travelled every alternate day to Edin- burgh, whereas at present five stage-coaches run through the parish every day to and from Edinburgh and other places. The desire of education seems to have more generally increased, and the style of it, too, is better. It must, however, be admitted, that there is abundant scope for additional improvements, — some of which have already been hinted at. Additional planting is required : and to promote the industry and frugality of the labouring-classes, and nourish m them a spirit of independence, it is desirable that there should be established in the parish a savings bank, in which they could from time to time deposit such sums as they might be able to spare from their necessary expenditure. It is always incumbent on the affluent and the influential of every description to do what they can to advance not merely their intellectual, but their religi- ous and moral improvement ^^ Godliness is profitable unto all things, having promise of the life that now is, and of that which is to come. Righteousness exalteth a nation, but sin is a reproach to any people." December lasa BERWICK. PARISH OF EARLSTON. PRESBYTERY OF LAUDER, SYNOD OF MER8E AND TIVIOTDALK. THE REV. DAVID WILLIAM GORDON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name — Boundaries. — The name of this parish was originally Ercildoun, which is still used by some of the older inhabitants. The origin of the name is uncertain ; but the place itself appears to have early attracted attention, and this may be sufficiently ac- counted for not only by its vicinity to the monasteries of Melrose and Dryburgh, but likewise by its having been the residence of Thomas the Rhymer, who, in many respects, was one of the most extraordinary men of bis age. The parish is in length from east to west upwards of 6 miles, and about 4 J in breadth. It is bounded on the west by Lauder and Melrose, on the south by Merton, on the east by Smailholm and Nenthorn, and on the north by Gk)rdon and Ledgerwood. Topographical Appearances. — The parish contains no mountain ranges, though part of the country be hilly; nor are any of its hills remarkable save one about a mile south of the village, which is thought to bear some impressions of having been the site of a Ro- man encampment, and rises nearly 1000 feet above the level of the sea. Climate and Diseases. — The climate, more especially toward the west, is universally acknowledged to be mild, and thus, with a dry atmosphere, contributes to bestow upon the people considerable exemption from disease. It is observed by Mr Riddel, one of the surgeons of the parish, that the periodical epidemics are of a gentle nature. Scarlet fever has appeared 'but seldom since 1820, and even then no deaths occurred in the village from that disorder ; typhus fever is of rare occurrence, and perhaps the free ventilation which the village enjoys, together with the healthy situations of the farm-houses, prevent the spread of that dangerous malady. Neither scrofula nor consumption is seen so often as formerly, while distem- BARLSTON. 19 pers of the skin, s6 frequently observed among the lower orders of society, are her* exceedingly rare. Hydrography. — There are two rivers in the parish, the Eden and the Leader, both of which have their source in Lammermoor, and flow into the Tweed. And though neither of them be re- markable for breadth or depth, or extent, yet the Leader, on ac- count of the beauty of its banks, has been justly celebrated in Scot- tish song. Its windings between the hills of Carolside and through the classic grounds of Cowdenknows, till its waters at Drygrange are lost in the principal river of the south of Scotland, form part of a scene of uncommon beauty. Soil, — Considerable varieties of soil appear in the parish of Earl- ston. The arable land is for the most part dry ; it is of a loamy rather than a sandy nature, and some of it is justly considered as strong and rich. A proportion of barren heath is here and there to be met with ; and while in the eastern quarter there is a good deal of marshy ground, there is a moss in the northern division consisting of several hundreds of acres. IL — Civil History. Eminent Persons. — Among the eminent characters connected with the parish both by birth and residence, a conspicuous place must be assigned to Sir Thomas the Rhymer, to whom a considerable portion of the lands of Ercildoun belonged. This extraordinary man lived about the end of the thirteenth century, and though it be not now easy to ascertain whether he himself made any preten- sions to more than mortal knowledge, he was very soon after his death represented by his countrymen not only as a poet but as a prophet. The accounts which have descended to our own times concerning the predictions he is said to have uttered respecting many families of importance, and the ruin of the grandeur of his own family, and the union of the British nations under one monarchy together with the popular belief of his having been carried off at an early age to fairy land, are all particularly mentioned by Sir Walter Scott in a po^m of uncommon beauty, to be found in the Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border. The succeeding biography of the parish presents no such singular materials as those that are furnished by the history of this prophet or poet, but it affords others far more interesting and useful in the lives of several individuals who were distinguished not only by rank and talent, but by worth severely tried in the furnace of afflic- tion. Among these individuals the Right Hotvowx^Xi^ft Cs^ot^ 20 BERWICKSHIRE. Baillie, Esq. of Jerviswood, merits a conspicuous place. He was the son of the venerable patriot who in the reign of Charles IL fell a victim to a tyrannical government, and whether he be viewed as an exile soon after the death of his father, or as afterwards fil- ling high offices of responsibility in his native land, — ^whether he be regarded as a member of Parliament or as a private gentleman, there are few men of his station who have left behind them such purity of character or more striking attestations of all that is useful and edifying both in public and private life. Nor was the worth of his wife, Lady Grizzel Baillie, either less conspicuous or tried less severely than his own. It was by means of her courage and caution in regularly bringing by night a necessary supply of food, that while as yet a child she preserved the life of her father, the Earl of Marchmont, when, persecuted by arbitrary power, he was forced to seek refuge in the confinement of a tomb. And when to this it is added, that the same true greatness of soul uniformly distinguished her behaviour both in the conjugal and in the paren* tal relations, we can scarcely be surprised that a writer of no or^ dinary talent should have adopted this lady as a heroine of the highest order in the scale of female excellence. But in mentioning some of the more eminent characters con- nected with the parish of Earlston, the writer of this article would consider himself as chargeable with unjust omission were he to pass unnoticed the late Mrs Baillie of Jerviswood, the mother of the present representative of that honourable house, since her conduct presents a most useful example to those of her own sex, who, possessing similar means of doing good, are at the- same time placed in such circumstances as induce them too hastily to con- clude that they have a just title to be exempted from several of the duties of life. This amiable woman was confined to bed dur- ing almost the whole of the last thirty-two years of her existence. Yet, instead of resigning herself to indolence, or satisfying her- self with the performance of those offices of piety by which she was comforted in the solitude of her chajpber, she was never more actively benevolent, even in her healthiest days. Her de^ light was to employ a messenger of kindness, whose office was to search out cases of distress, that to the indigent and helpless, to the ignorant and thoughtless, to the sick and dying, to widows and orphans she might communicate immediate and effectual re- lief. Land-mcner$. — The chief land-owners in the parish are George EARLSTON. 21 Baillie, Esq. of Jerviswood ; Dr James Home of Cowdenknows ; Captain Brown of Park; and James Home, Esq. of Carolside. Parochial Registers. — The date of the earliest entry in the pa- rochial registers is the 30th September 1694. They are not vo- luminousy but are regularly kept, though for some years past pa- rents have not been so attentive as before to the registration of births. Antiquities. — The only remains of antiquity are, part of one of the walls of the tower or castle of Sir Thomas the Rhymer, the pit, and tower, and trees of Cowdenknows, a stone inserted into the front wall of the church, bearing the inscription '^ Auld Rhy- mer's race lies in this place," and a stone taken from a grave, on which is a figure bearing a near resemblance to a Maltese cross. There existed some years ago, near the western extremity of the village, an ancient thorn tree, on which the fortunes of the place, according to the superstitious traditions of the older inhabitants, were alleged to depend. Modem Buildings. — The venerable thorn, above alluded to, at length yielded to the tempest, and near the spot where it had long flourished, there now stands a handsome house, lately erected by a gentleman of the Law, whose correct taste has thus given an orna- ment to the town, and whose attention to the interests of the in- habitants may well reconcile them to the loss of their ancient thorn. The principal mansion»houses in the parish are Mellerstain, the princely residence of Mr Baillie, the house of Cowdenknows, whose adjoining scenery has been made classical by the beautiful melody of " The Broom o' the Cowdenknows," and the house of Carolside, which, from the stillness of the vale around it, and from the hills which shelter it, and partly conceal it from the view, ap- pears to the traveller a sweet and secure asylum from the toils and trouble of the world. HI. — Population. The population at present is 1710, of which number there are in the village of Earlston, 847 ; in Fans, 147; in Redpath, 114; in Mellerstain, 202 ; and in the country, 400. 1. Number of fimiilics in the parish, ... 3^7 of ^milies chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 136 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 14! of other families, .... HO 2. The average number of deaths, - - • - 19 of marriages, - - - - 12 The number of families of independent fortune does not exceed 22 BERWICKSHIRE. three, but there are at least eight proprietors of land of the year- ly value of L. 50 and upwards. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The number of acres stand- ard imperial measure, either cultivated, or occasionally in tillage, is 5600 ; and the number either constantly waste or in pasture is 2118. But there is no encouragement to add to the cultivated land, since the improvement of the waste has for the most part turned out not to the advantage, but to the loss of the cultivators. No part of the parish is in a state of undivided common. The number of acres in wood is 915 ; and on the Mellerstain estate, where there is a regular felling of timber for sale, a great extent of waste land has been planted chiefly with Scotch fir. The management of plantations is on the whole good ; and on the estate of Cowdenknows much improvement has been made by plantations laid out with great taste, forming an ornament both to the scenery of the Leader, and to the village of Earlston. Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land, per acre, is about 18s.: but in the inmiediate vicinity of the village, where the soil is uncommonly rich, some land rents so high as from L. 3 to upwards of L. 5. The common grazing allowance for a cow is L. 3 ; that for a full-grown sheep, 15s. Rate of Wages. — The wages of married farm-labourers vary from L. 25 to L. 30 per annum. An unmarried male-servant, within the house, has from L. 9 to L. 1 1, while unmarried wo- men receive about L. 7. The current wages of women labour- ing in the field are lOd. per day in sunmier, and 8d. in winter ; and Is. 8d. in summer, and Is. 6d. in winter, are the ordinary al- lowance for men. Masons, when employed by the day, receive from 2s. 2d. to 2s. 4d. Blacksmiths, contracting by the draught or pair of horses, have from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3. The ordinary wages of carpenters are from 2s. to 2s. 6d. per day, but they have stated prices for the various implements of husbandry. Weavers are at present in poor circumstances, as they are unable, with all diligence, to gain more than 9s. per week. Husbandry. — The prevailing kinds of stock in the parish are the Leicester breed of sheep, and the short-horned breed of cattle, to both of which considerable attention is paid. The five-shift hus- bandry, as it is usually denominated, is the system generally fol- lQm^4f> ^here the land, after being two years in grass, is cropped with oats, next with turnips, then with oats or barley and grass^ EARLSTON. 23 which closes the rotation. Little wheat is sown, as the soil is suited chiefly for turnips, in the cultivation of which bone manure, recently introduced, has proved an excellent substitute for dung. Every acre of waste that could repay the labour of the farmer has been improved. The wet arable has been generally dried by draining ; and the extensive moss already mentioned having been redeemed at an expense of from L. 1200 to L. 1400, affords now tolerable grazing for cattle. With regard to the leases, there is no doubt that, were they longer than they are, the effect would be a considerable increase of agricultural improvement. They run at present from fifteen to twenty-one years. The principal pro- prietor, Mr Baillie of Mellerstain, has been at great expense in improving the farm-offices on his extensive property ; and as the parish is nearly all enclosed, so the fences being generally kept at the mutual cost of landlord and tenant, are thus preserved from the neglect which they might otherwise experience. * Manufactures. — There are two manufactories in the parish, one belonging to Miss Whale and Company, the other to Mr Wil- son. The former is a manufactory of ginghams, merinos, shawls, muslins, shirtings, and furniture stripes, — the latter of plaidings,' blankets, and flannels ; and in both, but more especially in the former, employment is given to many who would otherwise be destitute. In Miss WhaWs establishment,- where the whole is wrought by hand-loom weaving, work is afforded to fifty weavers, and to about sixteen additional individuals, chiefly women and children. In Mr Wilson's manufactory, where upwards of forty are employed, some of the men gain 12s., and the children 2s. 6d., per week. They work eleven hours per day ; and as yet no bad effect has appeared, either on the health or the morals of the workmen. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — The nearest market-town, Melrose, is distant about five miles. But there is a post-office in the village of Earlston; and on the road which passes through it, and extends five miles in length from one end of the parish to the other, there is a daily coach from Edinburgh to Kelso, and from Kelso to Edinburgh. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church, built in the year 1736, and now undergoing an extensive repair, stands in the village of * An estimate of the average groQS amount and value of raw produce raised in the paririi may probably be stated in the general summary of this couxvV] , 24 BERWICKSHIRE. Earlston. It is almost in one extremity of the parish, and is five miles distant from the other. It has hitherto been unable to af- ford accommodation to more than 450 persons, of whom none, with the exception of the heritors, have free sittings ; but, besides the repair, it is now also receiving an enlargement, which will be capable of holding nearly 200. — The manse was erected in 1814, and repaired in 1824. — The stipend is 16 chalders. — The glebe, which is between 7 and 8 acres in extent, is so valuable, as to let at upwards of L. 5 per acre. Among benefactions for religious and charitable purposes, the following may be mentioned as the most interesting and import^' ant, viz. L. 50 by the late Honourable Mrs Baillie of Jerviswood, for the more frequent dispensation of our Lord's supper ; L. 200 by Mr Tod of Kirklands, for coals to the poor ; L. 86 for the same purpose, by a person whose name is at present forgotten ; L. 600 by J. Wilson, Esq. surgeon, Bombay, for the benefit of the parish school, and L. 30 for teaching the children of the en- rolled poor. There are two dissenting chapels in the parish, one of which, belonging to the Antiburgher Seceders, has existed almost from the commencement of the Secession, while the other, connected with the Relief church, is not more than fifty years old. The sti- pend of the minister of the Antiburgher chapel does not exceed L. 100, nor does that of the Relief minister amount to more than L. 120, and both are raised from the seat-rents, and from the weekly collections on the Sabbath. In the former congregation there may be a few more, and in the latter a few less, than 300 communicants. The number of persons of all ages connected with the Established church is about 800. The number regularly attending is about 400. The number of communicants at the last dispensation of the sacrament was 404. And the average amount of church collections yearly may be stated at L. 22. Education, — There are at present three schools in.the parish, two of which are endowed ; one of these is at Mellerstain, where the teacher has a salary of L. 5 from Mr Baillie, and where the ordinary branches are taught. The other is the parochial school, where the teacher's salary is L. 28, and where the branches of in- struction taught are, English, reading, and grammar, writing, arith- metic, practical mathematics, algebra, geometry^ plain and sphe- rical trigonometry, Latin, Greek, and French. The people, in general, are alive to the benefits of education ; EARLSTON. 25 nor do I know a single family in the parish, any of whose mem- bers, from six to fifteen years of age, have not been taught to read. Library y Friendly Society ^ and Savings Bank. — The other in- stitutions existing in the parish are a Subscription Library, and a small library for children ; a Friendly Society for affording relief to its sick members ; and a Savings Bank for the lower classes of the people, in which there may be at present about L. 100. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 34. The average sum allotted to each is 8s. per month, which is raised by regular half-yearly assess- ments. A few individuals may occasionally be met with who are unwilling to be placed on the roll of paupers ; but it must be acknowledged, that the people in general are not reluctant to ap- ply, and that they consider it as no degradation to receive a regu- lar support. Inns. — In the town of Earlston there are four inns, and six other houses where ale and spirits are sold. Fairs. — There are here also two annual fairs for horses and cattle, one of which is held on the 29th of June, and the other on the third Thursday of October. Fuel. — The principal fuel is coal, which, as it is brought chiefly from the neighbourhood of Dalkeith, a distance of twenty miles, seldom costs less than Is. or Is. 2d. per cwt Miscellaneous Observations. Among the variations between the present state of the parish and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Account, considerable improvements in the system of husbandry deserve to be noticed, together with the erection of a considerable number of neat and comfortable houses in the village of Earlston. And, while much advantage is anticipated from an intended alteration in the road from Kelso to Edinburgh by the way of Earlston, the facilities of communications would be still much increased were a line of road made from Fans through the waste land eastward to the Edinburgh turnpike by the neighbouring parish of Gordon. June 1834. PARISH OF MERTON. PRESBYTERY OF LAUDER, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TIVIOTDALE. REV. JAMES DUNCAN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Namej Boundaries, 4*c. — In the immediate vicinity where the old village stood there is a piece of marshy ground. Perhaps from this, both the village and parish may have been designated Mire-town or Mertoun. The parish is situated in the south-west comer of Berwickshire. It is bounded on the south by the river Tweed, on the north by Earlston, and on the east by Smailholm and Makerston. In length the parish may be about six miles, and in breadth from two to three. Topographical Appearances, 8^c, — The western part of the parish stands high, and is extremely picturesque. From Bemersyde hill, the property of James Haig, Esq. over which one of the most public roads in the parish passes, the eye of the traveller is at once gratified with every thing beautiful and magnificent, — wood, water, hills, ruins, and fertile fields. The rest of the parish gradually declining to the south is also extremely pleasant, the prospect being agreeably diversified by excellent enclosures, beautiful hedge- rows, and thriving plantations. The soil towards the Tweed, par- ticularly the haughs, is sharp, with a gravelly bottom. Towards the north, and indeed through the rest of the parish, with very few exceptions, is a stiff clay with a till bottom. There are no lakes in the parish, and very few springs ; conse- quently, in very dry seasons, the farmers are sometimes at a loss for water to their cattle. The rocks are all greenstone and other trap-rocks, except on the banks of the Tweed, where they are deposits of old red sand- stone. This latter stone is very durable, and admits of the high- est polish. II. — Civil History. It may deserve notice, that Hugh Scott, Esq. of Harden, hav- ing purchased the library of his grandfather, the Right Honourable MERTON. 27 the Earl of M^irchmont, has in consequence of this, in his posses- sion, a number of letters, papers, pictures, and other documents relative to Scottish history. Land-owners. — The prmcipal, and indeed the only land-owners in the parish, are Hugh Scott, Esq. of Harden ; James Haig, Esq. of Bemersyde ; Sir David Erskine of Dryburgh ; Charles Riddell, Esq. of Musilee ; and John Anderson, Esq. of Gladswood. Parochial Registers. — The earliest date of our parochial regis- ters is 1697. They have been very irregularly kept, and contain nothing of any importance. Antiquities. — The Abbey of Dryburgh, so much admired by travellers, lies in the south-west comer of the parish ; but, as an account of it, written by the late Right Honourable the Earl of Buchan, is published in Grose's Antiquities, it is unnecessary to say any thing about it. Modem Buildings. — It may be proper to remark, that the late Earl of Buchan, with a liberality that does honour to his memory, erected a suspension bridge across the Tweed 261 feet. This bridge is a great accommodation to the public, as foot-passengers and single horses can pass at all times with safety. On a little eminence at this end of the bridge, he erected a circular building, which he designated the Temple of the Muses. The workman- ship is well executed ; and, taken in conjunction with the adjoin- ing scenery, forms a beautiful object. He also erected at a short distance, upon the brow of the con- terminous hill, a colossal statue of Sir William Wallace. This is chiefly remarkable, as being the workmanship of a common stone- mason who had never been taught sculpture. It is a conspicuous object from the turnpike road leading to Jedburgh. ' III. — Population. Returti to Dr Webster in 1755, - 502 Census taken in 1791, . 557 Do. in 1811, . . 614 Do. in 1821, . . 610 Do. in 1831, 664 In the last there are 312 males and 352 females. The increase arises from most of the proprietors and their families being resi- dent at the time the census was taken, and also from several new cottages being built for the farmers' married servants. 1. Number of families in the parish, . . 128 of families chiefly employed in agriculture, . . . 86 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicrajft.^ \^ 33 Females under 5, 29 87 5 to 10, 44 35 10 to 15, 67 46 15 to 20, 39 43 20 to 30, 61 44 30 to 40, 45 33 40 to 50, 32 15 50 to 60, 25 17 60 to 70, 33 8 70 to 80, 7 1 * Baptisms. Marriages. Deaths. 12 5 4 13 1 5 10 5 3 15 9 10 10 3 4 5 8 5 ]] 3 9 3 10 6 28 BERWICKSHIRE. Males under 5, 5 to 10, 10 to L% 15 to 20, 20 to 30, 30 to 40, 40 to 50, 50 to 60, 60 to 70, 70 to 80, 80 to 90, Total, 342 Total, 312 Average number of children in a family may be 5. The baptisms, marriages and deaths in the parish have been as follows : 1824, 1825, 1826, 1827, 1828, 1829, 1830, 1831, There has been one illegitimate birth in the parish during the last three years. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The total number of acres in the parish is about 5550. The number of acres annually sown, and the average return per acre, may be nearly as follows :— ^ Average return in Acres. bushels per acre. Wheat, . 434 21 Oats, . 951 34 Barley, . 1561 29 Pease, . 139 22 Beans, . 16 30 Turnips, . 359 3460 Perhaps there are 300 acres capable of being cultivated with a profitable application of capital; and there are about 500 acres under wood. There is no land in undivided common. Husbandry. — The land sown with wheat and barley is generally sown down with grass seeds, and this is either pastured or cut for hay, as circumstances may require. Much improvement has taken place within the last twenty years in every department of farming, though much yet remains to be performed. A good deal of ground has been drained, and a considerable quantity of lime used ; the expense, however, of the latter is so great, — from 10s. 6d. to Ids. per single cart,-*that an adequate remuneration is seldom obtained. But this evil might be remedied in some degree by the use of shell-marl, of which an abundant supply can be got in the MERTON. 29 parish. But tlie price of this. Is. 2d. per single cart, and the ex* pense of driving the quantity requisite, preclude the fanners in a great measure from using it Would the proprietor, Hugh Scott, Esq. of Harden, charge no more than the mere expense of taking it out of the pit, both he and his tenants would find their advan- tage in it, especially if the latter were obliged to lay it upon the grass sward, and submit it to the action of frost ; for, being of an adhesive quality till it is pulverized by frost, it can have little or no effect upon the soiL Besides, this could be done at less ex- pense than spreading it in its natural state upon fallow, and the beneficial effects either as to grass or com would be sooner felt. This marl was carefully analyzed by the late Dr Kennedy of Edin- burgh, and found to contain about 73 per cent, of carbonate of lime. Though spouts or springs are not frequent, yet surface water is not drained off so completely as it ought to be. Except at the com- mencement of a lease, the ditches are seldom scoured or kept clean, and, of course, the surface-water cannot be drained off. Were a person accustomed to the use of the spade mutually employed by landlord and tenant, this evil might be easily remedied ; and, what would be no inconsiderable advantage, if this person could cut and clean hedges, the fences would be kept in better order. It would be uncandid not to acknowledge that the landlords have been extremely liberal in giving their tenants good houses, and every acconmiodation necessary in point of offices and curtains or courts for their different kinds of stock. Much also has been done in the improvement of roads, so that, with few exceptions, there is now easy access from every part of the parish to the neighbouring turn- pikes ; and last, though not least, a mill upon a large scale has been erected. The machinery is of the most approved kind, and fitted to manufacture every kind of grain, and has at all times an abundant supply of water. A tenant of skill and enterprise might carry on an extensive and lucrative business. A great improvement has taken place since the introduction of bone dust, as by this excellent turnips are raised, and the farmer is enabled to give a greater quantity of dung for the production of wheat Breeds of Live-Stock. — The greatest attention is paid to the rearing of stock. The cattle, with few exceptions, are of the short-horned breed, and these are kept up or improved by buy- ing annually at high prices, from the best breeders in the south, bulls and cows of that kind. The sheep are of the best Lei- cester kind. Some years ago, Hugh Scott, Es<\. of Hact^'fcxv^^vs^- 30 BERWICKSHIRE. chased a stock of these, which were selected from the best flocks in England ; and to keep up this stock, and still further to im- prove it, he annually either hires or buys the best tups that can be got ; and, in order to accommodate his tenants and benefit the neighbourhood, he rears from his carefully selected stock, a considerable number of tups, which are regularly sold by auctioD towards the end of September. Much attention is also paid to the rearing of horses, both for the draught and saddle. ■ The following is the amount of the different kinds of stock kept, bred, and fed in the parish. Draught horses, . . 103 mersyde in parkii annually let by Da bred annually, . 18 auction, ' . . . 150 Young horses from 1 to 3 years old, 42 Ewes, . . 870 Kept for saddle, hunting, carriages. Lambs produced from these, . 940 &c. .... 23 Lambs sold annually, . 494 Cows, 146 Lambs bought in fur hogging, 260 Calves reared annually, a part of Sheep annually fed for the butcher, which are bought in, . 174 a part of which are bought in, 640 Cattle fed for the butcher, . 108 Sheep sold lean, . . laO Do. sold lean, . 72 Swine annually fed, . . ISO Cattle grazed at Dryburgh and Be- Rent of Land. — A considerable quantity of ground, well en- closed, sheltered, and watered, is annually let by auction for graz- ing; the rent varies from L. 1, 10s. to L. 2, 10s. per acre. The average rent of land upon a lease of 19 or 21 years may be from 15s. to 20s. per acre. The real rent of the parish is betwixt L. 5000 and L. 6000 per annum. Price of Labour. — A hind receives per annum 5 loads of oat- meal ; 15 bushels of barley; 6 bushels of pease; 1000 yards of po- tatoes planted; 5 single carts of coals drawn, but he pays the price at the coal-hill ; a cow kept summer and winter ; L. 3 in money ; he furnishes a shearer for his house, and provides his master with a worker, who is paid lOd. and 8d. in winter per day. Single men who live in the farmer's house receive from L. 7 to L. 8 per annum and their victuals : women from L. 5, 10s. to L. 6, lOs. per annum and their victuals : day-labourers from Is. 6d. to 2s. per day without victuals : men in harvest from 12s. to Ids. 6d. per week with victuals : women in do. from lis. to 12s. 6d. per week with victuals : smiths are paid by the year for a pair of farm horses from L. 2, 15s. to L. 3 ; joiners per day, 2s. ; masons, 2s. 6d. Quarries. — Though sandstone or freestone abounds on the banks and in the bed of the river, no quarry has been wrought for many years. This is no small inconvenience, nor can it be remedied with- out a greater expense than the proprietors are willing to incur. Fisheries. — We have three salmon fisheries ; but they are not MERTON. 31* very productive, and, consequently, the rent derived from them is but trifling. The fishers follow the practices of their forefathers, in angling, setting small nets in cairns when the river is in flood, and killing the salmon with listers when the river is small and the even- ing serene : and this they call burning the water, because they are obliged to carry a lighted torch in the boat. Long nets, such as are used near Berwick, and upon the Tay and Tummel in the north, mi^ht certainly be employed in many places with great safety and advantage. There is a large orchard belonging to Sir David Erskine at Dry- burgh, which yields from L. 100 to L. 150 per annum. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication, — There are three small villages in the parish. The means of communication are very scanty, and not a little inconveniently placed. We have no turnpike roads, no coaches nor carriers. In the village of Lessudden there is a daily post ; and though in a direct line it is not above two miles distant ; yet the Tweed intervening, it is at all times inconvenient, and sometimes impracticable of access, unless we go nearly double the distance, by Dryburgh, where there is a Suspension Bridge. Ecclesiastical State, — The situation of the church is extremely beautiful, being placed in the midst of a grove close 4o the patron's house and policy; it is, however, extremely inconveniently placed both for the minister and people, being about a mile from the manse, and about the same distance from the centre of the parish. It was built in the year 1658, and repaired in the year 1820. It is remarkably well fitted up, and in the most complete repair ; all the sittings are free, every tenant has a pew assigned to him, and there b a gallery appropriated in common to cottagers and farm- servants. — The manse was built in the year 1767, and has under- gone various repairs. — The glebe is 14 acres, and may be worth L. 14 per annum — The stipend is 16 chalders, with L. 10 for communion elements. — There are no chapels of ease nor dissenting meeting-houses in the parish. The average number of communi- cants may be about 240. The collections in the church are from L. 16 to L. 18 per annum. The church will accommodate about d80 ; and is generally well attended. It is difficult to estimate the number of dissenting families in the parish, — as they are chiefly those of married servants, whose residences fluctuate. Education, — The only seminary in the parish is the parochial school, at which the average number of scholars may be from thirty 32 BERWICKSHIRE. to forty. English, writing, arithmetic, practical mathematics, Greek, and Latin, are taught The salary is L. 30 ; and the school wages may amount to L. 10 per annum. Besides the above emo- luments, the teacher has L. 4, 4s. for precenting in church and officiating as session-clerk. He has also every legal accommoda- tion in respect of a house and garden. When parents are very poor, the heritors make no difficulty in paying for the education of their children. Poor and Parochial Funds. — Poors' rates were established in the year 1771 ; they may amount to about L. 30 or L. 40 per annum. This, with the annual collections in the church, is generally sufficient. The heritors, however, by no means restrict themselves to this, but cheerfully assess themselves to the full amount of what the minister and session deem necessary. The landlords and tenants pay in equal proportions ; and though the latter are not consult- ed when the assessment is made, they have never been known to grudge their share. The average number of poor upon the roll is about 8. They receive from Is. to 2s. 6d. per week, according to circumstances. It deserves notice, that the poor in this parish are provided for at less expense than in any parish of the same extent in the south of Scotland. This arises chiefly from the custom of giving temporary supply in cases of distress, and also from the ex- treme liberality and attention of the patron's family. /nnjr. — There are no inns in the parish, nor is any person al- lowed to sell spirituous liquors. Miscellaneous Observations. The greatest inconvenience experienced by this parish is the dis- tance from coal and lime, 25 miles. Every cwt of the former costs Is. 3d., and every single cart of the latter, from 10s. 6d. to 13s. Another great inconvenience is, the want of an easy and ready com- munication with the south side of the river, unless by the suspension bridge at Dryburgh, which is useful only for foot-passengers or single horses. There is no bridge nearer than Kelso, which is nine miles, or Drygrange bridge, which is four miles. A suspension bridge for carriages, &c. if erected in this immediate neighbour- hood, would be of immense use ; it would not only benefit this and the conterminous parishes, but would continue the road from Selkirk and St Boswell's Green to Berwick. June 1834. PARISH OF GORDON. PRESBYTERY OF LAUDER, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TIVIOTDALE. THE REV. JAMES PATERSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, Boundaries^ ^c. — The name of this parish was originally Goirteatij signifying in Gaelic a little field — a little farm — a little com field It lies in the western part of the Merse, Berwickshire, and is about 7 miles long, by from 2 to 4 in breadth, containing about 21 square miles. Its form is oval ; and it is bounded on the west by part of the parish of Legerwood ; on the north by part of Le- gerwood, Westruther, and part of Greenlaw ; on the east by ' Greenlaw; and on the south by Hume, now annexed *to the pa- rish of Stitchel, and by part of Earlston. It contains no moun- tains ; and the whole surface is uneven and hilly. The situation of the parish is high, and the atmosphere in general pure and sa- lubrious. The district is exposed to no prevalent distempers. The small river Eden runs through the parish from north to south, dividing it nearly into two equal parts. The Blackadder bounds it on the north-east for upwards of two miles, separating it from Greenlaw. The only species of rock with which the district abounds con- sists of pieces of whinstone, varying in weight from two tons to a few pounds. These blocks are thickly scattered over the sur- face of those moors which are as yet uncultivated ; and it is evi- dent that much of the land now under tillage must have at one time been encumbered with them. There are no masses of rock. In some places small beds of red sandstone are to be found, but so very friable as to be of little or no use. II. — Civil History. Family of Gordon. — This parish at one time contained the re- sidence and part of the possessions of the noble family of Gordon, who took their name from the place. They are said to have settled here in the reign of Malcolm Canmore, and to have removed to the north of Scotland about three or four centuries ago, It>&w- BERWICK. c ^) ^ I / s 7 34 BERWICKSHIRE. jectiired, that, at their departure, they transferred some names of places from their old to their new domains. Thus Huntly, a pa- rish with which they are connected in the north, was also the name of a small hamlet which existed till of late, and stood in the west- ern extremity of the parish. A solitary tree still stands to mark the spot A little to the north of the village of West Gordon, an eminence, dignified by the appellation of The Castle^ is yet pointed out as the spot on which the ancestors of the Duke of Gor- X don had fixed their residence. A moat or ditch may still be traced ; but the whole is now covered with plantations, and even the very / name is becoming obsolete. I Greenknow tower, now nearly in ruins, was once the residence of a zealous Covenanter, Pringle of Greenknow, whose memoirs have been lately published. hand-cfumers. — The chief land -owners are, Baillie of Jervis- wood ; Fairholm of Greenknow ; Robertson of Ladykirk ; Hamil- ton of Rumbletonlaw ; Innes of Stow ; and Erskine of Shieldfield. Parochial Registers. — The first date in the parochial registers is the 11th of January 1652. They are on the whole regularly kept, especially of late. III. — Population. Amount of population bv census of 1 80], . 800 1811, . 850 1821, . 737» 1831, 882 The great proportion of the population is rural. The only vil- lage in the parish is West Gordon, which contains about 300 in- habitants. 1. Number of families in the parish, .... i^ of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 106 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 96 2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 5 of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, - 20 d. The average number of births yearly, for the last 7 years, . -23 deaths, ..... 14 marriages, - - - - 6 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - - 815 upwards of 70, - - - 49 * The decrease in the population in 1821 was accounted for in the return which was then made out, and which was engrossed in the session records of the parish, from the system which had been adopted some time before by proprietors, of dividing and letting out their lands in large instead of small farms, as formerly. According to this theory, the effect of such a change did not become apparent till 1821. Large fiurms require proportionably fewer hands to cultivate them than small ones, and this, together with the various improvements which have taken place in the sjrstem of hus- bandry, tended, it was alleged, to diminish the number of the inhabitants. The gradual increase since may ^ accounted for in the ordinary way, and from the in- crease of houses in the village of West Gordon, which, from the fiidlity of obtaining Aiel fVom Greenknow Moss, in the immediate neighbourhood, are easily let. GORDON. 35 There are no nobility, nor individuals or families of independ- ent fortune residing in the parish. The parish has been long remarkable for the number of insane persons residing in it At present there are only 3, 1 blind per- son, and ) deaf and dumb. Character and Habits of the People. — They are rather remarka- ble for the persevering steadiness with which they attend to their several occupations, and for their industrious and frugal habits. Like all who are actively engaged in the business of life, the people are disposed to relax at times, and to seek a reasonable degree of enjoyment in a frank and friendly intercourse with one another. This disposition shows itself among all classes of society. They possess a considerable extent of religious knowledge; and this, from their fondness for reading, is every day gaining ground. Many of the better sort evince a knowledge and a taste in literary matters which would do credit to men in far more elevated stations, and with far superior advantages. Smuggling is almost unknown : not so poaching. The number of illegitimate births in the parish for the last three years has been 7. IV. — Industry. ^ Agriculture and Rural Economy. The number of acres, standard imperial measure, in the parish which are cultivated, or occasionally in tillage, is about . . 4300 acres which have never been cultivated, and which remain con* stantly waste, or in pasture, about . 4100 acres in undivided common, . .0 under wood, about 500 The trees are mostly fir, intermixed with some beech, oak, elm, &c I am informed that about 1000 acres might be added to the cultivated land. But it appears doubtful whether even the occa- sional cultivation of such land would repay the trouble, expense, and risk attending it A few good crops might be got at first, after which the land would become less profitable either for crops or grass. Rent of Land. — The average rent of the arable land may amount to about L. 1 per acre. The average rent of grazing in the whole parish, at the rate of L. 2, 10s. on good grass land, and L. 1, 10s. on meadow and waste, per ox or cow grazed ; and at the rate of 18s. per ewe, or full-grown sheep, pastured for the year, — may amount to about L. 3300. Rate of Wages. — Farm-labourers receive, in summer. Is. 8d. per day, and in winter, Is. 6d. Masons receive 2s. 6d. per day, and joiners the same. 36 BERWICKSHIRE. Husbandry. — The system of husbandry pursued is excellent, being the same which has been practised for a considerable time past in several of the southern counties of Scotland, and in the north of England. The land in general is light and sandy, well adapted for the growth of turnips. In cropping it is divided for the most part into five breaks. These breaks are cultivated in re- gular rotation as follows : — The first crop is made to consist of oats ; the second of turnips, one-half of which is eaten by sheep on the land, and the other half is led in to fatten cattle ; the third of bar- ley, when grass and clover seeds are also sown ; the fourth is a hay crop or pasture ; and the fifth is allowed to remain entirely in pasture. Much has already been done in reclaiming waste land, and in draining. In the latter respect something, perhaps, may still be done, but it is doubtful if much, or any, of the waste land could be reclaimed so as to afford profit to the farmer. The farm-build- ings are substantial and commodious. The arable land is all en- closed with stone-dikes or thorn hedges, and many of the fields are now well sheltered. During the late war, when all kinds of farm produce were sold at high prices, a considerable quantity of waste land was brought into a state of cultivation ; and though improvements of this kind are nearly given up, yet other improvements are still carrying on ; and if any obstacles to these can be said to exist, they are to be found in the articles of lime and markets, the distance to both be- ing upwards of 25 miles. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as that can be ascertained, under the follow- ing heads, may be rated as follows : Produce of grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man or the domestic animals, ..... L. 10,230 Of potatoes, turnips, &c. . . . . 1,788 Of hay, whether meadow or cultivated, . . . 400 Of land in pasture, rating it at L. 2 per cow, or full-grown ox, grazed, or that may be grazed for the season ; at 18s. per ewe. or full-grown sheep,, pastured, or that may be pastured for the year,* . 2,927 L. 15,345 V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town^ ^c. — The nearest market-town is Kelso, at the distance of about eight miles. The only village is West Gordon. Means of Communication. — There is no post-office ; yet there is no want of means of communication. The road from Kelso to • The ox is calculated for the summer grass, the sheep for the whole year. GORDON. 37 Edinburgh crosses the parish at the broadest part ; and another road from Earlston to Greenlaw traverses its whole length. Be- dsides these, there are a good many parish roads, leading from the main ones to the several farm-houses ; and these are kept in to- lerably good order. Ecclesiastical States'—The church stands nearly in the centre of the parish, and is very conveniently placed for the greater part of the population. It was built in 1 763, but has since undergone seve- ral repairs. At present, it b in rather an indifferent state, particularly as regards the seats. * It is capable of containing about 400 sitters. There are a few free seats, which may accommodate about 50. — The manse was built in 1803. — The glebe consists of 12 acres of arable land, and might be let at a rent of Ifrom L. 25 to Lb 30 per annum. — The stipend is payable partly in money and partly in grain. The money stipend amounts to L. 90 per annum. The grain stipend, which is paid by the fiars of the county once a-year, consists of meal, 16 bolls, 2 firlots^ 1 peck, 3 lippies; barley, 16 bolls, 2 firlots, 1 peck, 3 lippies ; oats, 28 bolls, 3 firlots ; bear, 25 bolls. There are no Dissenting, Seceding, Episcopalian, or Roman Ca- tholic chapels in the parish. The number of families attending the Established church may amount to about 173. Persons of all ages attending it may be calculated at about 350 or 400. The number of Dissenters and Seceders cannot much exceed 50. There are neither Episcopalians nor Roman Catholics. Divine service at the Established church is tolerably well attended. There are no societies for religious purposes, but the average amount of church collections yearly for religious and charitable ob- jects may be about L. 17. Education. — The parochial school is the only one in the parish. Besides the ordinary branches, practical mathematics, geography, and Latin, are taught The salary is the maximum, and the school- master has more than the legal accommodation. His fees amount annually to about L.20. There are few, if any, of the young be- twixt six and fifteen who can neither read nor write, and none what- ever upwards of fifteen. All classes are alive to the advantages of a good education; and parents in the humblest condition of life exert themselves to the utmost to secure for their children as much education as possible. Library. — A parish library was established upwards of ten years • A contract has been made to rcnexv X\\^i «i^\\T\^ o^ >>cv^ cVvvxOcv. 38 BERWICKSHIRE. ago. It is in a flourishing state, and has been the means of spread- ing a taste for general reading. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 25. The average sum allotted to each per week is Is. 4^d., or per year, L. 5, Ss. 0| d. The annual amount of contributions for the relief of the poor, besides the church collections, is L. 142, 16s. 4d. The only regular mode of procur- ing funds is by assessments on the landed property, and by church collections. The church collections for 1833 amounted to L. 14) 2s. 7|d. In some cases there is a backwardness shewn in solici- ting relief; and instances have occurred wherein the parties have been known to submit to many privations rather than resort to what they consider the last shift. Inns^ Sfc, — There is one inn and one alehouse; neither of which at all tend to the promotion of good morak. FueL — The fuel used consists of peat and turf. Coal, which is brought from a distance of twenty-four miles, is also used, but not so generally. Miscellaneous Observations. Improvements in the parish have been going on since the last Statistical Account was written. The chief of these has been the planting of part of the moors, which has greatly improved the ap- pearance of the country. There is a circumstance relating to the improvement of some waste land in the neighbourhood of the village, which is well worthy of the attention of political economists. In 1787, the then pro- prietor of Greenknow estate sold in perpetual feu about 100 acres of his moors to purchasers, in lots of from forty acres to two. The lots were disposed of at L. 5, L. 3, and Lb 1, 10s. per acre, with Is. per acre of feu annually. No sooner were the purchases made, than the feuars commenced the clearing of their lands; and some idea may be formed of the laborious nature of the undertaking, when it is stated, that in most places upwards of a thousand tons of stones per acre had to be raised and removed before the soil was capable of bearing any crop. Many of these stones had to be blown with powder before they could be carried away. In marshy places, draining also had to be resorted to ; and some of these drains measure six feet wide and five feet deep. This helped to get rid of the stones. Another method was by building small enclo- sures of from one to six acres. Some of the dikes thus built mea- sure from three to four and a-half feet thick, and four feet high. GORDON. 39 The whole is now in a state of cultivation, and more or less pro- ductive. On the best land, eight bolls of barley per acre have been produced, and, on an average, eight bolls of oats. Part of the lots were sold to labourers and trades-people, who, employing all their spare time in bringing their small properties into a condition fit for tillage, have at last greatly ameliorated their condition. It may be mentioned, as a proof how well even soils of an inferior quality will pay from this mode of treatment, that a lot of twenty-four acres, which was originally purchased for L. 72, was sold for L. 900 a few years ago. I have presumed to state these facts, as an evidence that even the worst soils will in the end well repay all the labour required to bring them into an arable state, provided liberal encouragement, as in the present instance, be granted to such purchasers as are above described, if sold in similar lots. P. S. — Since writing the above, 27 J acres of moor contiguous to that sold in 1787 has been disposed of on the same conditions, at from L.21 to Lb 5 per acre, — average price L. 11. It was dis- posed of by public roup, and put up m lots of about two acres each. Several proprietors of the old feus became purchasers, and some of them bought several lots together, amounting to 12, 8, and 3^ acres. Only two individuals bought lots a piece. The soil in these new feus is by no means good; some of it is decidedly bad, and none of it surpasses the greater part of that of the old feus ; yet I have no doubt but in the course of time it will prove a profitable speculation to those who have bought it, June 1834. PARISH OF GREENLAW. PRESBYTERY OF DUNSE, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TIVIOTDALE. THE REV. ABRAHAM HOME, MINISTER* I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, Boundaries. — Greenlaw is said to have stood originally where the farm onstead of Old Greenlaw is now situated, about a mile from the present town. This is the more likely, as the pre- sent town stands in a vale upon the banks of the Blackstdder, whereas Old Greenlaw stands upon a round hill, or detached emi- nence, of which kind there are several in the parish, and which, from their conical figure, are well known in Scotland by the name of Laws. It is from one of these, which, in the original uncultivated state of the country, was greener than the others, that the town and parish have evidently derived their name. The parish is be- tween 8 and 9 miles in length from north-west to south-east, and on an average about 3 miles in breadth ; is of the form of an ir- regular parallelogram, with the corners rounded off ; and is bound- ed on the east by the parishes of Polwarth and Fogo ; on the south by Eccles and Hume ; on the west by Gordon ; and on the north by Westruther, Longformacus, and a part of Cranshaws. Meteorology. — Climate. — At Greenlaw, which is well sheltered by the surrounding eminences, the air is mild. It is more so in the south than in the north division of the parish, where the winds during the spring and autumn months are keen and penetrating. The town and parish are particularly healthy, and no epidemical disease has appeared in either for a great number of years. Hydrography. — There are a number of excellent springs in the parish, one of which, situated about 200 yards from the town, af- s fords an abundant supply of excellent water. * There are also some mineral springs ; but they have never been correctly ana- lyzed nor have they been resorted to for medicinal purposes. There * The water was brought into the town, and two handsome receivers of cut strnie (whence the water is drawn) were erected by Sir W. P. Hume Campbell, Bart, who has been on this as well as many other occasions a judicious and liberal bene&ctor to the town of Greenlaw. GREENLAW. 41 is a loqh in the moor north of the town, called the Huille moss or loch. It is of small extent, and of no great depth. The Blackadder or Blackwater, which is joined by a small stream, called the Famigrass, about two miles above Greenlaw, is the only river that runs through the parish. Advantage is taken of it for the purpose of working the machinery of one fulling-mill, one lint^mill, and two common flour-mills, which have been erected on its banks. The water of the Blackadder (though its colour is black) is exceedingly pure. The engineers appointed to equalize the weights and measures of the county found it nearly correspond to the weight of distilled water. Geology. — The Blackadder divides the parish into two parts, which differ remarkably from each other in their external charac- ter. The southern division is covered with a deep soil, which pro- duces excellent crops of grain, and belongs to the new red sandstone formation. The northern division, on the contrary, consists of a wild moor, clothed with heaths, (Calluna vulgaris j Erica Tetralix et cinerea), moor-grasses, and the rein-deer lichen {Cenomgce rangifs" rina). Where the Blackadder leaves the parish a coarse white sandstone is exposed, and over it lies a daric claystone porphyry. Along the course of the river, above the town, its banks, which are high and precipitous, exhibit a section, and afford inexhausti- ble quarries of red sandstone. This rock, which is father soft, has a clay basis, and the fracture presents occasional portions of a white sandstone. The sandstone is covered by a thick coat of red clay, evidently derived from the disintegration of the substrata, and extends as far as the transition range of the Lam- mermoors, where it becomes gradually harder and coarse granu- lar, and passes into greywacke. Hence the northern division of the parish belongs to the old red sandstone formation. Across the moor, in the upper part of the parish, runs an irregular gravelly ridge, called the Kaimes. The Kaimes extend upwards of two miles. The ridge is about 50 feet broad at the base, and between 30 and 40 feet in height. The ground on the north side is boggy ; and on the south is an extensive moss, called Dugden Moss. The Kaimes are evidently a natural production, and in endea- vouring to account for their formation, it is to be observed that the stones scattered over the fields towards the Tweed consist principally of greywacke, which must have been detached and car- ried thither from the rocks of Lammermoor hills by the agency of a current .of water setting in from the norlVv Vc>\;^\^^^^ ^^^s5^sv\ 42 BERWICKSHIRE. and as the Kaimes are composed of similar materials reduced to a very moderate size, its formation is to be ascribed to the same cause. It is generally allowed that mosses are produced from de- cayed vegetable matter, such as wood, furze, fern, &c. Now, if it be admitted that Dugden Moss was at one time an extensive wood, the waters subsiding at the universal deluge, or some more partial inundation, and rushing with great impetuosity from the Dirring- ton Laws, which are about two miles north-west from the Kaimes, would carry with them all the wood and underwood to a conside- rable distance, till the collected materials would form a kind of dam or weir, through which the waters could not penetrate, and would' force up against this dam or weir the gravel and sand which form the ridge, in the same manner as is frequently done by rivers in certain parts of their courses during great floods. The mate- rials of which the ridge is composed, and its shape, which is some- what like a horse-shoe with the hollow towards the hills, favour this explanation. Dugden moss, which consists of about 500 acres, is in some places ten feet deep. The peats, when dug from the bottom and properly dried, are httle inferior to coals. The moss rests upon a fine sand. II. — Civil History. ♦ LdiJid'Owners. — Sir William Purves Hume Campbell, Bart, of Marchmont, is the chief land-owner, and possesses about two- thirds of the lands of the parish. The other heritors are David Anderson, Esq. of Rochester; Robert Nisbet, Esq. of Lambden; and the Managers of the Orphan Hospital, to whom the farm of Old Greenlaw belongs. Parochial Register, — The date of the earliest entry in the pa- rochial registers is 1669. The registers are not voluminous, nor are they quite entire. They are now kept as they ought to be, and according to a prescribed plan. Antiquities. — There were to be seen a few years ago in this * There is a tradition that, upon one occasion, when Sir Patrick Home of Polwarth (afterwards created Earl of Marchmont) was obliged to flee Rcdbraes house, now called Marchmont, he crossed the country a little above Greenlaw, where he met with a man of the name of Broomfield, the miller of Greenlaw mill, who was repairing a slap in the mill caul. Sir Patrick addressing him by the occupation in which he was engaged, said. Slap, have you any money ? upon which Broomfield supplied him with what was considered necessary for his present exigency. Sir Patrick was obliged about this time to go over to Holland, and when he came back with King William, did not forget his former benefactor. It is not known what return he made him, but the fumily were settled in a free house so long as they lived, and always retained the name of Slap. The last of the family died about fourteen vears ago, and frequent mention is made in the kirk-session records of Broomfield of Slap. GREENLAW. 43 neighbourhood the ruins of two religious houses dependent upon the priory of Kelso, when Popery was established in this country, but there is not now a vestige of them remaining. There are the remains of an encampment about two miles above the town, at the confluence of the Blackadder and Faungrass rivers, and on the very verge of their precipitous banks. The camp, which is called the Blackcastle Rings, is on the northern side of the river ; and on the south side, exactly opposite, is the beginning of an entrenchment which runs about half a mile along the bank, and then turns off to the south in the direction of Hume Casde. That part of it which runs in a southerly direction is called the Black Dikes. In removing the turf for a quarry in the line of this trench, a number of gold and silver coins of the reign of Edward III. were found about two years ago. A piece of a silver chain was also found at the old camp. Several silver coins were found this summer in clearing away the old buildings connected with the Castle Inn, but these coins, as well as the others above-mentioned, were seized by the work- people^ — except a few, which were given to Sir William Purves Hume Campbell, Bart. There are several barrows or cairns in the north-west part of the parish, one of which was removed a few years ago by some people who were employed in building dikes ; below it, was found a human skeleton, which was so placed as to lead to the belief that the body had been cut through the middle, and the one-half placed over or above the other.* Modem Buildings. — Besides the New Jail, to be afterwards no- ticed, there is an elegant County Hall, which has just been finished. The building is of Grecian architecture, and of very chaste design. It contains a large hall 60 feet long by 40 feet wide, the ceiling is 28 feet in height The hall is adorned with two fluted columns with Corinthian capitals at each end. There are also a number of other apartments in the building for the accommodation of the sheriff and the gentlemen who attend the county meetings. There is in front a beautiful vestibule surmounted by a dome, in which * About a mile north from the town, an ofd wall or earthen mound, with a ditch on one side, known by the name of Herriot*s Dike, runs across the parish. It could at one time have been traced fourteen miles eastward, and tradition says it proceeded in the same direction as far as Berwick. It is supposed to have extended westward to a place in the parish of Legerwood called Booti ; a word in the Celtic language sig- nifying l)oundary or termination. It is not known by whom or at what time this wall was built, nor for what purpose it was intended. 44 BERWICKSHIRE. there is a fire-proof room for holding the records of the county. * There is now in progress a new Inn, intended to supply the place of the Castle Inn, — which, when finished, will be found to be one of the best and most commodious upon the road between London and Edinburgh. III. — Population. In 1755 the population was - 895 1785, - - 1210 1811, - - 1270 1821, - - 1849 1831, - - 1442 It may be proper to add, that in 1821, the population of the town of Greenlaw was 765, that of the country parish 584 : in 1831, the town population was 895, that of the country parish 547.t 1 . Number of families in the parish, - - - 902 of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 84 chiefly employed in trade, manufiu;tures, or handicraft, 87 of other families, .... 13| The average number of illegitimate births yearly, during the last three years, has been four. It appears from the foregoing statements that the population has been and still is upon the increase. This may be accounted for in part by the improvements which have been made in the town, by the encouragement which has been afforded to labourers, by the improved state of agriculture, and the increasing comforts of the people. Almost the whole of the town of Greenlaw is feued. The feu- ars (80 in number) are a respectable class of people. There are several instances of longevity in the parish. A man died lately upwards of ninety, and five or six of the villagers are between eighty and ninety. Character and Manners of the People. — The inhabitants of this parish are in general sober and industrious. There are. some, in- deed, as there are in every community, of a different character, but they are few in number. Those who are frugal and industrious enjoy in a reasonable degree the comforts and advantages of so- ciety, and are contented with their situation and circumstances. * This noble edifice was built at the sole expense of Sir W. P. H. Campbell, Bart, of Marchmont, and presented by him to the county. The gentlemen of the county have requested Sir William to sit to one of the most eminent artists for his bust, to be put up in the large hall in token of their respect and gratitude. f Of the population in 1705, 223 were below eight years of age; of the 9B7 who were above eight years of age, 832 belonged to the EsUblished church, 62 were Burghers, 82 Antiburghers, 7 Camcronians, and 4 of the Relief persuasion. GREENLAW. 45 IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. Number of acres either cultivated or occasionally in tillage. - 627G never cultiTated, - - - - 8151 capable of being cultivated with a profit, - 600 under wood, ..... 435 in undivided common. ... . 1000 The commoD above referred to is pastured during the whole year by the cows of the villagers. Every householder appears to have a right of pasturage, and the cattle are tended by a conunon herd. They are brought home every night, and sent out on the morn- ing. The right of pasturage is of considerable value, and enables the greater number of the householders to keep a cow. The ex- pense of herding to each individual amounts only to a few shillings yearly. Rent of Land. — The valued rent of the parish is L. 6836, 3s. ll^'gd. Scots. The rent of land varies according to its quality and situation. Near the town of Greenlaw, where it is let in small portions, the rent is from Lb 1, 10s. to L. 3 an acre ; enclosed arable farms let at from L. 1 to L. 2 an acre ; unenclosed farms, which are partly in tillage and partly stocked with sheep, are not let by the acre but in the lump. About fifty years ago, the real rent of the parish did not exceed the third part of what it is at present. The great rise of rent is owing not so much to any considerable rise in the price of grain as in the price of sheep and cattle, and the vast improvements which have been made in agriculture, by which more grain is raised than formerly. Rate of Wages. — The price of labour has greatly increased since the late improvements were introduced into Berwickshire. Far- mers' men-servants, who have their victuals in their masters' houses, receive from L. 8 to L. 12 a-year ; the women from L. 7 to L. 8. But most of the men-servants employed in husbandry are married, and eat in their own houses. They receive for meat and wages twelve or thirteen bolls of grain, L.4 in money, food for a cow dur- ing the whole year, with some other allowances, which may amount in all to L. 25 yearly. Men day-labourers, when they furnish their own victuals, which they generally do, receive Is. 6d. or Is. 8d. a-day, except in mow- ing time and in harvest, when they get 2s. or 2s. 6d. per day, with their victuals; women receive for working at hay and weeding turnips Is. a-day, without victuals. The day's wage of a mason in summer is from 2s. 4d. to 3s., of a carpenter the same. Work, however. 40 BERWICKSHIUE. of all kinds is often done by the piece. A tailor receives Is. 6d. a-day, without victuals. Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : 4800 bolls of com, at \^ per boll, L. 4560 Poutoes and turnips, . , 8600 Hay, meadow and cultivated, . 3000 Pasture, .... aOOO L. 13,160 V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Towns. — The town of Greenlaw is a burgh of barony, the superior of which is the proprietor of the estate of Marchmont. It was created the head burgh of the county in the year 1669, and the public meetings of the freeholders are regularly held there. It is long since any weekly market was held in the town of Green- law. Regular markets for the hiring of single servants, and the sale of cattle and sheep, have been lately established ; and on the first Thursday of May 1834 (being the first of the late established markets) a good deal of business was done. Means of Communication* — There is a post-office in the town, and the communication by the curricle mail is uncommonly rapid. Letters from London reach us in about forty hours, and letters from Edinburgh in three hours and a-half. There are about eighteen miles of roads in the parish, which are kept in a good state of repair by the conversion money. A daily coach to and from Dunse and Edinburgh passes through Greenlaw. Ecclesiastical State. — The church, which is in the town of Green- law, is conveniently situated, being nearly in the centre of the pa- rish. It was lately repaired and painted, and although it is too narrow considering the length of it, (which is the case with almost all old churches,) yet it is upon the whole a very comfortable place of worship. BroomfielcTs Mortification. — In the south wall of the church (outside) is a monumental slab put up by the kirk-session in the year 1744, to the memory of Thomas Broomfield, a considerable benefactor of the parish, who died in the year 1667. He left a legacy of 2000 merks Scots to the kirk-session, a part of the inte- rest of which is expended yearly, in terms of the deed of mortifica- tion, in the education of poor children, and the remainder in sup- plying the wants of the poor. It appears from an inscription upon the church bell, that it was also a present from him ; and it is said GREENLAW. 47 that he left funds for building a bridge over the Blackadder, at the west end of the town. Manscy 8fc. — The manse was built in the year 1817, and an ad- dition was made to it in the year 1829. It is a very commodious and comfortable dwelling. The stipend is 15 chalders, 14 bolls, 3 firlots, 3 pecks, and 3 lippies, one-half of which is barley, and the other half meal, with the exception of about seven bolls of oats. The money stipend amounts to L.31, 7s. 6d. Sterling. The va- lue of the grain and meal is fixed annually by the county fiars price of grain and meal. The average amount of the stipend in money for the last seven years is L.271> 3s. 4d. The glebe consists of ten acres, and is worth about L. 30 of yearly rent. Divine service in the Established church is well attended by about 204 families. The average number of communicants may amount to about 370. The average amount of church collections may be stated at L. 14 yearly. There are two dissenting or seceding chapels in Greenlaw, at- tended by about 98 families. The ministers are paid by their hearers. A branch Bible society, in connection with the Berwickshire Bible Society, was established here several years ago, the annual contributions, to which amount to about L. 15. Education. — There is one parochial, and one private school. The branches of education taught in the parochial school are Latin, Greek, French, mathematics, &c The schoolmaster has the maximum salary, and a very excellent house, to which is at- tached the legal quantity of ground for a garden. The average number of scholars may be stated at 130. The fees actually re- ceived by him amount to about L. 45 Sterling a-year. Library. — The inhabitants of Greenlaw have long enjoyed the advantage of a subscription library, which contains a very good col- lection of books. There is also a small library in connection with one of the dissenting congregations, for the use of the children who attend the Sabbath school. Friendly Society. — A friendly society was established in the year 1814, which has been of great advantage to the members. It was remodelled about two years ago, agreeably to the instructions con- tained in the table published by the Highland Society. The so- ciety consists of 150 members. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The heritors and kirk-session meet twice a-year, about the terms of Whitsunday and M.axlvNOKa&^Vix 48 BERWICKSHIRE. the purpose of making provision for the poor. At each of these meetings an assessment is made sufficient for maintaining those that are admitted upon the roll for the ensuing half-year. One- half of the assessment is paid by the heritors, and the other half by the tenants. The heritors are very liberal m providing for the poor ; and yet the poor-rates are not very high, — not amountiiig to more than sixpence in the pound Sterling of real rent They are kept thus moderate by a minute attention to the wants of the industrious poor, who are often prevented from becoming enrolled paupers, by a little judicious and timely aid in sickness. The ave- rage number of persons receiving parochial aid for the last five years is 28 ; and the average usual sum allotted to each individual is L. 5 Sterling. The average amount, for the last five years, of contri- butions for the poor, is L. 298 Sterling a-year ; whereof L. 16 arise from church collections ; L. 222 from legal assessments ; and L. 60 from alms or legacies. Fairs. — There are two fairs held annually in Greenlaw,-— one on the 22d day of May, and the other on the last Thursday of October. They afford a good market for milch cows and lean cattle. A great deal of business is generally done at the smnmer fair. Inns. — There are in Greenlaw 1 principal inn, 1 inferior one, and 7 alehouses. Jail. — A new jail was erected in the year 1824. It is a very neat building, consisting of two day rooms for felons and one for debtors, with eighteen sleeping cells. There are three courts to which the prisoners have access during a part of the day. The building is surrounded by a very high wall, upon the top of which is a chevaux de frieze, which renders it quite secure. There is a plentiful supply of water within the jail, and the whole establish- ment is kept in a state of perfect order and cleanliness. The ave- rage number of prisoners may be stated at 8, — they are chiefly felons. Fuel. — The chief article of fuel is coals, which are brought from Northumberland, — a distance of eighteen or twenty miles. They are sold by weight, at from 6d. to 8d. per hundred weight. A few turf and peats are also used, but the expense and trouble of winning them is so great in proportion to their value, that the use of them is nearly given up. ♦ • Sir William P. H. Campbell, Bart, built a depot for coal, and gave L. 50 to fill it. The poor, who formerly paid very dear for their coals, by bujring them in small 4 GKEENLAW. 49 Miscellaneous Observations. It is impossible to view the high lands in the northern division of the parish, which extend to thousands of acres, without regret* ting that they should have continued so long the almost exclusive habitation of the moorfowl and the lapwing. It is true that the quality of the soil, — its altitude, — and its distance from lime and markets, — preclude the idea of its amelioration by tillage, and by the present improved system of agriculture ; but were these bleak and barren moors judiciously enclosed, drained and planted, they would assume a new and improved aspect; in place of the heath and the rein-deer Uchen, we should have the fir and the oak, and what is now a sterile waste, would soon become a leafy forest. The pro- prietor would thus sow the seed of an ample and certain harvest, for it is a well known fact that nothing tends more to enrich and to fertilize than thriving and extended plantations. The high would then rival the low lands in beauty and productiveness, and every spot, even the most sterile, would ultimately become as beautiful and fertile as it is possible for skill and industry to make it quantities, are now supplied from the depot at a moderate price. Sir William made the inhabitants a present of a weighing-machine* which has been of essential service to them. Coals, which were formerly sold bj the cart-loady are now sold by tlie weight. March 1834. BERWICK. D PARISH OF ECCLES. PRESBYTERY OF DUNSE, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TIVIOTDALE. THE RF.V. JAMES THOMSON, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Boundaries. — The name Eccles occurs in each of the three kingdoms. It was a sirname and baronial title of great anti- quity in Dumfries-shire, and was carried in the beginning of the seventeenth century, from that county to Ireland, by a cadet of the Eccles family. Eccles in Berwickshire seems to have derived its name from the number of churches or chapels at one time situated in the parish ; for we have evidence that, besides the pa- rish church, there was formerly a chapel at Leitholm, and another at Birgham.f The term is plainly derived from the Greek word signifying a church. It appears from the " registrate of the valuation of teinds," made in 1634, that the parish was anciently divided into four quarters. 1. Magealens or southern quarter, comprehending " Lochton, Newtoun, Templand, Fairnyrigg and Birgim." 2. St John's or northern quarter, including " Mersingtoun, Overplewland, Litle- thank, Herd rig, Burnhouses." 3. Ladies or eastern quarter, con- taining " Lawrig, Buthrig, Belchester, Newbigging, Antonshill, Peill, Stainerigg, Litem." 4. St Cuthbert's or western quarter, consisting of " Kennetsydhead, Hassingtoun, Nethermains, Whyt- house, Hardaikers, Stainfeeld, and Dedriges." The greatest length of the parish from north-east to south west is 6 J miles, and the greatest breadth from north-west to south-east 5^ miles, and it contains 17.413 square miles, according to Mr Blackadder. The river Tweed bounds the parish on the south. The whole of the parish, with the exception of some slightly elevated parallel * This account has been drawn up by Robert D. Thomson, M. D. f The churchyard at Birgham still exists. The chapel of Leitholm stood at the west end of the present village. The site of it is marked by an old ash tree known by the name of the chapel tree^ which grows on the summit of the chapel know. The ad- joining ground was used as a place of burial, and is now cultiTated. Bones and cof- fins have been occasionnlly dug up. ECCLES. 51 ridges, called Cotchet ridge, Brae Dunstan, and Bartlehill, con- sists of a plain beautifully fenced, cultivated, and wooded. Meteorology. — The heat of springs in the parish is 48°, which may be considered the mean annual temperature of the atmosphere. The state of the weather from an average of five years is as fol- lows : 120 rainy days, 12 snowy days, 39 frosty days, and 234 fair days, making the proportion of rainy to fair days as 1 to 2 nearly. The mean height of the barometer for two years was 29.390 inches, which gives 364^ feet for Eccles above the level of the sea. Diseases. — The inference drawn here from observation is, that disease does not increase in proportion to the gross amount of the rain which falls, but according to the length of its duration in the atmosphere, or, in other words, to the diminution of the atmosphe- ric pressure. Hence the year 1830 (in which there were long tracks of wet weather) was accompanied with many acute diseases. Scarlet fever raged with great virulence in the village of Eccles, and in Leitholm scarcely a family escaped the small-pox, though none died"*^ but one child who had not been vaccinated. Measles also were very frequent. Before the general introduction of draining, intermittents were very common, but during the last thirty years they were never heard of, until about three years ago, when several well marked cases of ague occurred in the village of Eccles. Inflammations, as must happen wherever persons are exposed to sudden alternations of heat and cold, are frequent, especially during autumn. As far as the writer of this article has been able to learn, a case of calcu- lus has never occurred in the parish. Notwithstanding these incidental complaints, the inhabitants may be said to be very healthy. Many attain a very great old age, and there are instances of persons reaching nearly the age of a hundred. Hydrography. — The average depth of the wells in the parish is fifteen feet, and the water obtained at this level is extremely clear and palatable, which may in some measure be ascribed to the great quantity of sulphate of lime which it holds in solution, and which is partly separated when the water is evaporated and allow- ed to cool. The sp. gr. of the well wat^r at Eccles manse is 1.000792 and * The propagation of this disease is in a great measure to be ascribed to the ineffi- cient manner in which vaccination is performed ; the principal operators being mid- wives and other ignorant people, who cannot be sup)>osed capable of distinguishing between a genuine and spurious vesicle. 52 BERWICKSHIRE. it contains in the imperial gallon, sulphate of lime, 57.750 ; com-' mon salt, 29.752 ; = 87.503. On the borders of the parish, at the Leet, there is a chalybeate well which was furnished with a stone cover in 1780. The supply of water is pretty copious. Its sp. gr. is 1.00237, and in summer the temperature is 48°. The solid contents are sulphate of limet common salt, and a minute portion of iron held in solution by car- bonic acid. At the east of Birgham Haugh there are springs ori-> ginating in the calcareous sandstone, which are impregnated with bicarbonate of lime, and when they drop u|)on plants, leave a de- posit by which elegant masses are formed. The river Tweed forms part of the south boundary of the pa- rish, and separates it from Northumberland. Its breadth on the west side of the haugh by measurement is 1 14 yards, and its ave- rage depth from 2^ to 3 feet in summer. Geology and Mineralogy. — The best section of the rocks of the parish is seen at the Tweed, for the banks of that river rise in the form of elevated cliffs, and reach a height of 50 feet in some places above its level. They consist of a dark slaty marly sand- stone, which contains 25 per cent of carbonate of lime and a white compact sandstone dipping at a slight angle to the south-west At Lochton, thin beds of red massy gypsum with crystals imbedded^ (termed alabuss by the common people,) containing \ per cent of peroxide of iron and white fibrous gypsum, occur. Proceeding along the course of the river, the northern bank continues high and precipitous for about a quarter of a-mile, when its height gradually diminishes, and at Birgham Haugh exceeds the level of the water only by a few feet Here the bed of the Tweed consists of magnesian limestone, containing red homstone and crystals of calcareous spar. The south bank is formed of al- ternations of this rock and claystone porphyry, and these extend for some miles up the river. The sandstone of Eccles quarry, which is three miles to the north of the Tweed, reposes on a simi- lar rock. The analysis of tolerably pure specimens from Hadden rig gives nearly : Carbonate of lime, 6.25 ; carbonate of mag^ nesia^ 5.25 = 11.5; or an atom of each, with some impurities; a little silica, alumina, and iron. A few shells have been observed in this rock. At the east end of the haugh, the sandstone is co- vered by amygdaloid, containing green steatite and calcareous spar. The upper portion resembles greenstone, and the cavities contain ECCLES. 53 quartz nodules. The inferior part of the rock has a ivacke basis approaching to clay, and stilbite occurs sparingly in it. In the sandstone which is exposed near Kennetside head, the silicious particles predominate to such an extent as to constitute almost a quartz rock. The same marly sandstone which is seen at the Tweed appears on the banks of the small river Leet, and contains thin beds of gypsum. From these facts it appears that the whole of the parish is situ* ated in the' new red sandstone formation. A bluish marl contain- ing 30 per cent, of carbonate of lime occurs at Harlaw and Over- mains, which was used as a manure, but it seems now to be near- ly exhausted. There is considerable variety of soil in the parish, that on the banks of the Tweed being light, while to the south- east there is some moor land ; in the middle and northern parts, clay and loam predominate. Zoology. — The banks of the Tweed and the plantations at May- field, harbour a number of foxes, weasels, and rabbits. The otter frequents Ferneyrig bog. Besides about eighty conunon birds, the parish is occasionally visited by some rarer species. Of these may be mentioned the Columba turtur (turtle dove) ; Aquila albicilla (sea eagle) ; Turdm vescivarus (missel-thrush,) which was very uncommon till within the last three years ; Corythus entLcleator (hawkfinch) ; Alcedo U^ pida (king's fisher) ; Ardea nyciicorax (ni^t heron or bull of the bog) ; Mergus merganser (goosander) ; Lanius excubitor, Linn, (greater butcher bird.) On the Tweed, the salmon fishery, the property of the Earl of Home, had very much declined, but during the last two years it has in some measure revived. Pike occurs in the Leet, Ferneyrig and Harlaw bogs. Botany. — Notwithstanding the high state of cultivation of the parish, above 360 Phenogamous or flowering plants grow within its bounds. They may all be classed under three soils, but the rarer plants alone deserve notice; 1. marshy; 2. light and moor; and 3. clay soils. 1. Fernyrig marsh furnishes a considerable variety of the first, viz. HippurU vulgaris^ Utricularia vulgaris^ PotamogetonheterophyU lu8 natans var. Samolus^valerandij (Enanthe phellandrium^ Par* nassiapalustriSf Spergtda nodosa, Rantmadus lingua, which occur on the borders of the marsh, while the water is overgrown with the Arundo phragmites, the stems of which are used for t\\^\f:k!CiSk!^ 54 BERWICKSHIRE. houses, and by weavers, and the Scirpus lacustris, and Typha loH^ folia. In the bog south of Hardacres grow the Galium boreaIe» Valeriana deltoidesy and Listera ovata. Pyrola minor in Bank- head wood. Rpilobium angustifolium^ Eupatorium cannabinum^ Tweedside at Birgham. Potamogeton perfoliatus, pectinatus^ pur sillus and lucens^ narrow-leaved var. in the Tweed, Nuphar lu^ tea^ pond at Karnes; Iris Jbetidissima, pond at Anton's Hill. 2. On the banks of the Tweed are the Dianthus deltoidesy CercLs* Hum arvense^ the three British Malvae; Euphorbia esula, Birgham Haugh ; Ceiitunculus minimus^ M ayfield moor. 3. In the glebe and likewise on the banks of the Tweed, and in the fields about Eccles, grows a species of Tragopogon^ which has been hitherto confounded with the T. pratensis. It was first ad- ded to the British Flora during the present year ( 1831) by the writer of these pages, who has been able to identify it as the 71 major. The Senecio tenuijblius grows near Sunnyside and Grizzle- rig. Anchusa sempervirens at Belville and Hassington. Solanum dtdcamara near Orangelane ; Rubus ccesius^ Tweedside. About 40 species of fleshy fungi have been collected in the pa- rish, of which 30 are Agarici. Of the latter may be mentioned the A. muscarius and A. Listeri. The greater proportion oc- cur at Bankhead wood. Alectoriajubata on trees at the same place. There are numerous thriving plantations scattered over the pa- rish, consisting of every variety of tree, but few of a century's stand- ing. The most aged are some elms and ashes at Leitholm Peel, and Eccles- House. II. — Civil History. Historical Notices. — Birgham, a village on the Tweed, former- ./ ly called Brigham, (from a bridge which it is supposed united the two kingdoms at this point) is celebrated as having been the place where several important affairs were transacted. In 1188, when the distresses of the Holy Land had induced Henry II. of Eng- land and Philip of France to agree to tax their dominions in order to carry on a new crusade, Henry having determined in a great - Council in his own kingdom, that a tenth of all the moveables and revenues of the clergy and laity should be exacted for that pur- pose, sent Hugh, Bishop of Durham, with some other courtiers, j to collect a similar tax in Scotland. On the arrival of the Bishop and his attendants, WilHam the Lion of Scotland met with him at Birgham, in an assembly of his bishops, earls, barons, and many J inferior vassals. The meeting terminated ])y William informing / ECCLES. 55 the English Ambassador, that he could not prevail on his clergy and laity to give the Saladin tenth demanded,* On the 17th March 1290, after a dispensation had been ob- tained from Pope Nicholas IV. for the marriage of Prince Ed- vyard, son of Edward L with Margaret of Scotland, a numerous meeting of the conmiunity of Scotland assembled at Birgham, and expressed their approbation of the intended match, upon condition of Edward's giving them security for certain matters relating to the state of their country. This assembly also wrote a letter to the King of Norway, informing him of their consent, and request- ing him to send his daughter as speedily as possible to England. Another meeting, furnished with greater powers, was held at the same place about the middle of July following, at which were present the Bishop of Durham and five others, who solemnly as- sented, in their master's name, to every important regulation made by the Scots for securing the independence of their kingdom. The death of the young queen soon after in one of the Orkneys, as is well known, defeated the intended marriage, f X Purves-Hall, the seat of John Purves of that ilk, is situated in the parish. This family was founded early in the seventeenth century. Eminent Men. — Eccles was the native parish of Henry Home, Lord Kames. He was born at Kames in 1696, and there spent his youth. It was in this quiet retreat that he entertained Dr Benjamin Franklin and his son in 1759 ; that he wrote many of his philosophical works ; and studied those agricultural processes which he has so ably described in his " Gentleman Farmer." Land-owners. — The principal land-owners at present connected with the parish are, the Marquis of Tweeddale; the Earl of Home ; Sir W. Purves Hume Campbell ; and Sir John Marjo- ribanks. Parochial Registers. — The earliest date of the parochial regis- ters is 1698. The present incumbent introduced a great improve- ment in the mode of registration. Every two opposite pages are divided into ten columns, and each column has a distinct title, stating the names of the parents, their residence, and profession, the names of the children, dates of birth and baptism, whether public or private, and the names of the witnesses. Two copies " Ben Petrol, p. 514 — Uidpath's Border History, p. 104. f Rymer, Tom. ii. p. 448. — Ridpath's Border Hist. p. 166. 56 BERWICKSHIRE. are preserved, one by the minister, and the other by the semon* clerk. Antiquities. — At Crosshall, about a mile to the north of the vil- lage of Eccles, there is a cross or monument of white sandstone^ without any inscription. It consists of a column, which passing through a base or pedestal, penetrates into the earth. The late Sir John Paterson wished to remove it to near the mansion-house of Eccles, and for that purpose employed workmen, who dug seve- ral feet into the earth without being able to reach the foundation of the column. An antiquarian would regret that this monument has never been protected by any enclosure. The column above the base measures 10 feet high, 1 foot 6 inches broad on the west and east sides set the bottom, and 1 foot on the north and south. The pedestal, which is a> large solid block of sandstone, is 2 feet 6 inches high, and 3 feet square on its upper surface, and is raised 1 foot 6 inches above the ground, so that the whole elevation of the cross is 14 feet. The north face of the column presents the sculpture of a cross Calvary, with the upper part surrounded by a kind of shield. The west side gradually becomes narrower upwards, and has at the summit a circular expansion 1 foot 6 inches in diameter, with a cross, and below an escutcheon, with a cheveron in the dex- ter and sinister chiefs,* and precise middle base respectively, and a St John's cross. The south has an escutchjeon similar to that on the west side, and beneath an ancient double-handed sword : the east a circular expansion at top, with a cross, and below, the naked figure of a man and a greyhound. Some have supposed that this monument was raised to the memory of one of the Percies of Northumberland. The conjecture of Mr Robertson is more pro- bable, that it was erected after the second crusade, which happened in 1 114, (the crosses referring, perhaps, to the Holy War,) in ho- nour of the father of Sir John de Soules, Lieutenant or Viceroy to John Baliol. The local tradition says, that a governor of Hume Castle was killed on the spot in a skirmish. The place where it stands was, till lately, called Deadriggs, and is reported by tradi- tion to have been so named from a battle which was fought there, in which the slaughter was so great, that the small stream of lip- rick, a little to the north, ran with blood for twenty-four hours. On the hill of Hardacres, about a mile to the north-west of the * Trans. Soc. of Antiq. Scotland, 4(0* 1792, Vol. i. p. 269, where Uxere are a de- scription and drawings of the monument by Roger Robertson, Esq. of Ladykirk. The present writer's measurements diflfer slightly From his, and if Mr ilobertson*s are correct, the monument must have sunk 10 inches. ECCLES. 57 cross, there are traces of entrenchments, and some cannon balls * have been found between it and Hume Castle, which stands two miles north-west The latter are, perhaps, remnants of Colonel Fenwick's attack upon Hunte Castle in 1650.f Eccles was anciently the seat of the Bernardino or Cistertian nuns. At what period the first foundation of this nunnery was laid, no account can be derived from history. According to Hove- den and the Melrose Chronicle, it was founded a second time in 1154, or, according to Cowpar, in 1155, by Cospatrick, Earl of March, father to Earl Waldave, and was consecrated to the Vir- gin Mary. The abbreviation of the Scoto-Chronicon, annexed to Fordun, says that this nunnery was established by the Countess of March. In 1296, during the interregnum in Scotland, Ada de Frazer, prioress of Eccles, obtained a letter of restitution, in con- sequence of the fealty sworn to Edward I. by the Scots. In 1333, Edward III., after taking Berwick, received the fealty of the con- vent of Eccles, and of the other nunneries in the adjacent country. The convent of Eccles was visited 13th November 1523 by the Duke of Albany, when retreating from Wark Castle. He stayed till midnight, and then marched to Lauder. In 1545 the abbey and town of Eccles, together with the tower of Mersington, were destroyed by the Earl of Hertford, who, hav- ing been entrusted with the command of the troops in the north of England, made an inroad into Merse and Tiviotdale, and ravaged and burned the whole country in his way, without receiving any check from the Scots.:): There is in the public records. Lib. xxi. No. 537, a charter, whereby Majrieta Hamilton, prioress of Eccles, dispones to Sir Alexander Hamilton of Innerwick, the village and lands of Eccles in 1569, which charter was confirmed by Queen Mary at Edin- burgh the 11th of May, the same year. The place was formed into a temporal lordship in favour of Greorge Hume, afterwards Earl of Dunbar.§ The ancient nunnery, from the investigations of the Rev. Mr Murray, (author of the former Statistical Account,) appears to have occupied a square of six acres. The only remains of it are a wall, * One of these in the author's possession weighs 3 lb. 1 os. Troy, measures 8 inches in circumference, and consists of cast iron. f Kinssrig, Bartlehill, and Banghousewalls are places in the neighbourhood. I Hollinshed's Scot. Chron. p. d88.-.Ridpath Bord. Hist. p. 654. § Rymer, Tom. ii. p. 723.— Spottiswood's Appendix to Hope's Minor Practics. — Ridp«th*8 Border Hist. p. OS, 901, 310, 5ia 58 BERWICKSHIRE. which forms part of the east gable of the mansion-house, and two vaulted cells contiguous to the churchyard. On the west side of the ruin, there is a large arched gate or door-way 9 feet 8 inches high, and 6 feet 1 inch broad, and within this there is part of a ruined stair, and the door of the south cell, which is 6 feet 4 inches high, and 3 feet 1 inch broad. The cell itself is 2'2 feet 3 inches by 12 feet 6 inches, and 10 feet 9 inches high. The walls are 3 feet 9 inches in thickness. The north cell is similar, but less. In digging the adjacent burying-ground, the workmen are interrupted by the foundations of walls. Before the front door of Eccles House a stone coffin was dug up many years ago about 6 feet long, and covered above with flag stones, contain- ing the figure of a human body. Nothing remained but some of the earthy matter of the bones, which, when weighed by Sir John Paterson, was found to amount to an ounce and a-half.^ On the farm of Hassington Mains there is a broad elevation which is raised several feet above the surrounding surface, and can be distinctly observed for some hundred yards. It is called the Karnes by the people in the neighbourhood, who have a tradition- ary opinion tliat it extends from sea to sea. A gravelly ridge, of which this seems to be the western termination, can be traced run- ning through the parish by Loanknow and Ploughland. It was opened some years jigo, and found to consist of large water-worn stones and sand, compactly thrown together, so as to form a kind of fortification, and at one place a heap of wood ashes was disco- vered. The adjoining farm on the south is called Kaimflat. The production of this ridge, of which there is a similar example upon a larger scale in the neighbouring parish of Greenlaw, can be satisfactorily accounted for upon the supposition that an aqueous current had at some period existed, setting in from the north to- wards the south, as the stones found in it were greywacke, and therefore derived from the Lammermoor hills. On the property of General Hunter, Sir Martin, of Antonshill, is Leitholm Peel, the remains of a stronghold, to which tradition says the borderers were accustomed to drive their cattle for protec- tion during invasions. ** llic frightened flocks and herds ore pent Huncath the peeKs rude battlement.** The remnant consists of a wall 31 feet long, about 15 feet high, and 4 feet thick. • Tlic revenue of the priory at and previous t<} I,j()(» was L. 047, V^ M See short account of Scottish nionev. &c, pamphlet, Edinburgh, 1817. 4 ECCLES. 59 III. — Population. In 1750, according to Dr Webster, the population amounted to 1489 souls. 1793, Rev. Mr Murray, - - 1780 1801, by Government census, - - 1682 1811, do. do. . . - . 1820 1821, do. do. - - - . - 1900 1831, do. do. 888 males, 997 females, - 1885 During 1830-01} no less than 94 persons emigrated to America, which accounts for the decrease in the last, compared with the preceding census. The average of the population to the square mile is 108.25. 1. Number of families in tlie parish, - - - - - 411 of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 239 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 90 2. Number of males above 20 years of age, ... 441 of houses, - - - - - . . 423 3. The average number of births for the last 7 years, - - - 37 of burials,* - . - - - . I84 of marriages, ..... 14| 4. The number of persons in 1821 under 15 years of age, - - 709 do. upwards of 70, - - - 56 Seven persons of independent fortune reside in the parish. There are 25 heritors, and of these 5 cultivate their own lands. There are 1 insane and 4 fatuous persons in the parish. Language^ Customs^ §*c. of the People. — The language spoken by the common people corresponds with that of the greater part of the Lowlands. One peculiarity, however, in the pronunciation of the syllabi^ cA, pertains to this parish, as well as to the rest of Berwickshire. Thus, cheap is pronounced sheap ; church, shurch. A curious custom connected with marriage is still kept up by the youths here. Once a-year, or oftener, according to circum- stances, all the men who have been married within the last twelve- month are creeled. This consists in having a creel or basket sus- pended to the individual's shoulders, and, while he runs with all his speed from his own house to that of his next new-married neighbour, he is pursued by the unmarried men, who endeavour to fill his basket vrith stones. The wife, following armed with a knife, strives to relieve her husband of his burden, by cutting the rope which attaches the basket to his person. IV. — Industry. Agriculture arid Rural Economy, — In no part of the county of Berwick has agriculture made greater progress than in the parish of Eccles ; for the whole of it, consisting of 1 1 ,000 acres, is ara- * The actual average of births is here under-rated, because very few dissenters en- ter their children's births in the register. Tlie burials also given here arc under the true number, because no accurate account is kept of the interments in Birgham churchyard. 60 BERWICKSHIRE. ble, and, being all enclosed and studded with thriving plantations, it presents to the view a rich and elegant appearance. The increase of the rental within the last forty years b a strik- ing proof of the improvement of the land, but is not greater than was anticipated. Mr Murray states the amount of rent in 1793 to be L. 11,000, but adds, ^^ it would not be surprising if in the course of a few years the rental of the parish should exceed L. 18,000 or L. 20,000." Accordingly, in 1822 it amounted to L. 20,000, the valued rent being only L. 15,604, ds. 4d. Scots. Hent of Land. — The average rent per acre is under L. 2. The size of farms varies from 50 and under to 1000 acres. The rents of course vary in proportion, the greatest being L. 1400. Hiisbandry. — The general duration of leases is 19 and 21 years, but one or two farms are let for 15 years. Most of the larger tenants keep a greater or smaller number of sheep, principally of the Cheviot and Leicestershire breeds. The former, from their greater hardihood, are best suited for clay lands. The four shift husbandry has been long, and for some time successfully practised here. Excellent wheat, oats, and barley are produced. Turnips are raised by every farmer, both for sheep and cattle, and, although the light soil of the southern part of the parish is best adapted for their growth, yet in the clay and loam they attain a very fair size, and are healthy and well-flavoured. In all the stiff lands it has been remarked of late years that the broad-leaved clover (Trifolium pratense) sown in spring rarely stands the ensuing winter. Va- rious reasons have been assigned for this, but the fact indicates the propriety of making some change in the present rotation, and the employment of gypsum as a manure. * V. — Parochial Economy. Markets. — The parish is very well supplied with respect to mar- kets, for, although there are none mthin its bounds, yet Kelso and Coldstream are only about 6 miles, and Berwick 18 from the centre of the parish. There are four villages in the parish, and of these Leitholm is the largest, having a population of 343 souls, and a bye-post to Coldstream. Means of Communication. — The London road from Edinburgh * For an account of the agriculture of Bertvickshirc, relating especially to the pa- rish of Eccles, vide *< Sketch of the present state of Agriculture in Berwickshire.** AnnaU of PhUosophy, Vol. i. 260^— Vol. ii. 185. About the middle of last century Mr Hume of E^les and Lord Kamea were very active promoters of improvement in agriculture. ECCLES. 61 by Greenlaw traverses the parish from north to south, (by which the mail passes daily) and that from Edinburgh to London by Kelso, with the road from Kelso to Berwick crosses it from west to east A London coach passes by the south road, and there are two coaches from Berwick to Kelso. All these turnpikes are kept in excellent order, and, notwithstanding its extent, there is not a toll in the parish. EcclesicLstical State* — The parish church is situated about a mile from the western side of the parish, and is therefore not so con- veniently placed as it might be. It is a large spacious building, furnished with a handsome spire, and was built after tlie model of the St Cuthbert's Chapel of Ease, Edinburgh. Its length is 78 feet 6 inches, and its breadth 34 feet. It was erected in 1774, and conveniently holds 1000 people. The expense was 4d months' cess, or L. 999, 15s. 7d. All the sittings are private property. The stipend is 16 chalders. The manse and glebe formerly lay to the south of the mansion-house of Eccles, but their situation was chang- ed at the expense of Sir John Paterson. The present manse is placed about a quarter of a mile to the east of the church, and was built in 1813. The glebe, formerly called Birgham Park, lies in front of the manse, amounts to 21 acres, and consists of good land. Since the Revolution there have been five clergymen whose names and dates of ordination or admission are as follows : — John Lauder, 1691 ; Matthew Sandilands Dysert, 1731 ; Adam Murray, 1774; James Baird, 1797; James Thomson, 1805. The average number of conununicants for five years preceding 1829 was 549, but in 1831, in consequence of the emigration, the number was only 505. As to the number of Dissenters in the pa- rish, no exact statement can be given, as they vary every year from the annual emigration and immigration of hmds. Education. — There are five schools in the parish, but only one of these is a parish school, the remainder being entirely supported by school fees. The parochial schoolmaster teaches Greek, La- tin, English, writing, and mathematics, and has two chalders of salary. Mr Waddel, the present schoolmaster, has the merit of having established, at his own expense, a library for the use of his pupils, and he finds that they are much benefited by private reading. He has the maximum salary. Charitable Institutions. — An association termed the ^ Eccles Friendly Society," was established on the 31st March 1808^ for the purpose of relieving its distressed, infirm, and ind\%ets, raised with deafening clang, Frantic, he tore his aged locks The fearful onset blew. With time and trouble gray ; And then the chieftains stepped forth. And faintly crying, my son ! my son ! 'i'heir shining swords they drew. His spirit fled awav. 12 19 Like lions in a furious fight. The Scottish chief, as his fiither fell, Their steeled faulchions gleam. He raised his fading eye. Till from our Scottish warrior's side And tore the bandage of his wounds Fast flowed a crimson stream. To let life's streams run dry. 13 20 With deafening dm on the coats of mail He kissed his sire, and his brother's wounds, 'ITie deadly blows resound,— That ghastly were and deep. At last the Saxon warrior. And closed him in his folding arms, Did breathless press the ground. And fell on his long, long sleep. WESTRUTHER. 75 has been allowed to fall entirely into disrepair, being never in- habited by the family except for a few weeks in the shooting season. There are 12 thrashing-mills, 2 corn-mills, and a saw-mill. The corn and saw mills at Bruntiburn are driven by the same water. IIL — Population. The population of the parish seems to have been anciently much greater than it has ever been found to be since the census was taken under the directions of Parliament, — the decrease being the conse- quence, partly, of emigration, and partly of the junction of farms. Some of the older inhabitants can enumerate more than thirty on- steads, on each of which four -or five families were grouped to- gether, which are now entirely desolate, and have been converted into a ploughed field. Since the census began to be taken, no material alteration in the population has taken place. Populationofthe village of Westnither in 1831, - 167 Iloundslow, - - 90 in the country, - - - 613 870 . 1. Number of families in the parish, • - - - 165 of families chiefly employed in agriculture, * - - - 104 in trade, manufiictures, and handicraft, 23 2. The number of persons in 1831 under 15 years of age was, - - 335 above 70, .... 30 There are 3 bachelors, and 4 fatuous persons. Habits and Qharacter of the People, — Formerly school-boys were accustomed to amuse themselves with cock-fighting on Fasten's eve, — each having a cock trained for the purpose, and the victor in the contest had, besides the honour of conquest, the burden imposed on him of paying for a foot-ball, which ended the sport of the day. This barbarous amusement, with which Fasten's eve was ushered in, was discontinued when the present schoolmaster came into office, who, greatly to his credit, used all his influence to abolish it; and the other more innocent game being so closely connected with it, was also gra- dually relinquished; the matches often consisted of more than 100 persons on each side. Sometimes the whole parish tunied out, but generally the battle was pitched by the unmarried against the mar- ried men. There used to be much sport and merriment also at the celebration of penny-weddings, but these, on the interference of the church courts, were prohibited, and since that period there have been no stated amusements of a public kind among the people; — the fairs, which occur at various times in the course of the sum- mer, aflbrding sufficient opportunity for the relaxatioi\^vA^v4^x^vs^ 76 BEItWlCKSHIUE. of the labouring-classes. — This, however, being a pastoral and hilly district, it must not be forgotten that there is plenty of amusement of a different description, and that the sports of the chace may be both enjoyed and witnessed here at almost all times during the sea- son. Notwithstanding the temptations presented by the character of the countrjs it is believed that poaching in game does not pre- vail to any great extent. — In consequence of the parish being long in a sort of insulated state, and the condition of the people exposed to no such fluctuations as affect that of a commercial or manufac- turing po])ulation, the character of the parishioners is distinguished by a primitive simphcity, which is not, however, thesimplicity of igno- rance, but which is more fitly expressed by open-heartedness, and by an absence of all chicanery and guile. In the earlier history of the parish, this simplicity was allied with much superstition ; and as the character of the country gave most of the people an interest in the pursuits of pastoral life, there was no way in which supersti- tion showed itself so much as in what related to the preservation of their cattle. In almost every stable, stones which had any natural hole in them were suspended as amulets ; and it was not an uncom- mon thing to see a herd grazing in a field — with a piece of red tape and mountain-ashon the left horn of every beast to charm away dis- ease. Sometimes this spirit of superstition manifested a darker cha- racter; and an instance is recorded of a horse having been burnt alive at FlasM in 1726, during a great mortality that prevailed among the cattle. Such remedies have been long ago explod- ed: and tlic mind of the people is evidently advancing; — one proof of which is, that formerly there seem to have been one or two individuals whom every body regarded as oracles, whereas at present there is no such monopoly of wisdom. Religious know- ledge, especially, is universally, diffused, and it is hoped that not a few apply it to its practical ends. — The houses of the hinds and labourers consist generally but of one apartment, which is kept in good order, and would be in most respects com- fortable, were it not for the want of chimneys. The fire is lighted on the hearth, and there being no outlet for the smoke but a rude crevice made in the uncoiled roof, the houses are almost constantly filled with a dense cloud, which hovers at the height of 5 or 6 feet above the floor. This smoke, proceeding from peat, communi- cates a smell to the clothes which is strong and offensive to such as are not accustomed to it WESTRUTHER. 77 It may be said^ however, with propriety and truth, that the people ID general are cleanly in their habits, and show a becoming neat- ness in their dress. About fifty years ago, no man or woman wore any clothes bul what were made in their own family. Women's gowns and petticoats were woollen stuffs of various colours, and men's clothes were spun by the women, and sent to the weaver and dyer. But now there is scarcely any home manufacture, — even blankets, which, till very lately, were nniade in each family, being pur- chased, and that, too, at a cheaper rate than they could be wrought at home. The weavers, who were once numerous in the parish, are reduced to a single individual ; and he, an old man, who can now, since the introduction of machinery, and the change in the market, find no other occupation in his way than the manufacture of coarse sheeting for sacks or other agricultural purposes. The food of the peasantry consists chiefly of the different pre- parations of oat-meal; cakes are also very generally used of barley meal, baked to a great thickness, and csdled fadges. Pork also makes a constant item in their bill of fare. * Tea, now very ge- nerally used, at least by women, was not introduced here till the year 1800, oat-meal being then very high in price. In that year the harvest was late throughout the whole of Scotland, and the crop in Westruther never thoroughly ripened, in conse- quence of which there was a great dearth; meal sold at 8s. a stone; rice and foreign corn were bought by the session at Berwick, and sold out at a reduced price to those who were able to purchase it, and the rest, who were on the poors' roll, were supplied with it out of a fund belonging to the session, to be afterwards mentioned. Previously to the introduction of potatoes, the people used to pro- vide a sort of seasoning to their bread by laying up a stock of her- rings. The time for doing this was Lammas, at which season they were in the habit of going in bands to Dunbar, and making the purchase of as many of these fish as would serve their family dur- ing winter. The introduction of potatoes made an important ad- dition to the livelihood of the peasantry. These were a consider- able time in the parish, however, before they were generally used. * Persons still living remember the time when in the fiirmers* houses there were only one knife and fork, and the practice was, for the master of the house to appor- tion the share of butcher meat which each member of thefamUy should receive, and, retaining the knife and fork for his own use, to leave the rest to eat their meat in the primitive oriental manner. Several individuals also remember the time when there were only three taa-kettles in the parish, — in Spottiswoode, VITedderlie, and the manse. It is scarcely necessary to say, that the formers of the present day enjoy, in a liberaL measure, the ordinary comforts and luxuries of life. ^>^ BKRWICKSHIRE. They were at first confined to a small part of a field, which was dug with the spade for the puqpose. But after their utility became known, every^ person in the parish who had a house was furnished with a piece of land as large as their manure would cover, on which to grow potatoes. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — It appears that a much greater part of the parish was in tillage in ancient times than now, as is evK dent from various fields, which, though they have long lain in a state of pasture, bear the marks of the plough ; and even as far up as the Twinlaw vaults, the high ridges and low furrows of th^ an- cient system of ploughing are still visible ; heather is fast covering several places where good grain was wont to be reared. Notwith- standing this, however, the agriculture of the parish has been ad- vancing at a rapid rate of improvement for the last twenty-five Years. The number of acres which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage is 11,000. The land which is under wood may amount to about 850 acres, including both natural and planted wood, be- sides which, there are about 150 acres lying in a state of moss. The total number of acres in the parish will thus be 12,000. Rent of Land, — The average rent of arable land is 12s. per acre. The average rent of grazing for an ox is L. 3; for a full-grown sheep in the low lands 10s.; in the high lands of the parish, 5s. The total rental of the parish is upwards of L. 5000. Rate of Wages, — The yearly wages of a man-servant is L. 9, with his victuals ; of a female who lives in the house, L. 7, with her vic- tuals ; of a hind, L. 25 ; of a herd, L. 28. Women, in sunmier, who are hondagcrs^ * receive lOd. a-day ; those who are not Aoii- dagers^ Is., both without victuals; in winter they receive at the rate of Id. an hour. Tailors receive from Is. 4d. to Is. 6d., and their victuals ; wrights, 2s. 6d. ; smiths are paid L. 3 per yoke of horse ; dikers are paid 2s. per rood, 5 J feet high ; labourers from Is. 6d. to 2s. Live-Stoch, — The breed of cattle and sheep has been greatly im- * The class of servants here called boHdager* are not Xwa free and independent than other labourers, but they arc distinguished from others by being engaged by the binds or ploughmen to perform upon their master's farm the ordinary work of weeding, boe- ing» barn-work, &c. ITiey receive a rate of wages for the half year similar to that of house-servants. The hind pays these half years* wages, with board to the bondagvr ; but receives the day-wages earned by the latter, which are generally equivalent to the wages and baird. This arrangement is found convenient, and even necessary, to the various operations of a farm in thinly peopled districts. WESTRUTHER. 79 proved. Those which pasture on the soil which rests on a freestone bottom are generally better and fatter than those which pasture on a whinstone soil. The cattle are improved by the Teeswater bulls. The sheep are of three kinds, Cheviot and Leicester, and black- faced. The hogs here are rather of a coarse description, and those which have been brought from England, such as the Cleveland breed, have been found to degenerate. About seventy years ago, there were few or no pigs in the parish, as there were then no tur- nips nor potatoes for them to feed upon. The first pigs reared in the parish were at Bruntiburn, as kain to the Laird of Spottis- woode. The number of live-stock in the parish may be estimated as follows :— 220 horses ; 816 black cattle ; 6220 sheep. The num- ber of cattle of all kinds is greatly increased since the last Ac- count was published. The increase arises from various causes. In respect of horses, it proceeds chiefly from there being a large coach-proprietor in the parish, whose stud is seldom less than 40. In respect of other kinds of stock, it proceeds from the present high state of cultivation of the arable and pasture lands, and from the care taken from time to time to change and improve the breed. It may be mentioned as one instance of the rich pastures about Spottiswoode, that there was an ox reared there in 1802, which was publicly exhibited in all parts of the kingdom, weighing 320 stones 14 lb. to the stone, and sold for 200 guineas. Husbandry, — The general character of the husbandry pursued is the four years' rotation. This has been considered fatiguing to a light soil, particularly injurious to oats, by bringing on grub, and to turnips, by producing^n^er«-a7u£-/oe«. In some farms, according- ly, the tenant is boimd to the five years' rotation, that is, to keep the field in pasture every fifth year. * With regard to the implements of husbandry, there are no pe- culiarities to be mentioned, save that the old Scotch plough con- tinued to be used here till a comparatively recent period. It was drawn'by two horses in front, and two oxen behind; sometimes • • Turnips were 6rst introduced here in 1 765 ; clover a little before that. The field in Wedderlie, where it was first sown, still goes by the name of the Clover park. Before the introduction of turnips, the fiirmers had little occupation for their horses during summer ; so that after the barley seed was over, they took off the shoes of their horses, and set them out to graze till hay time. But few carts were used for- merly here ; com and every thing being carried on horses* backs. In this way the farmers drove their grain to Dalkeith market, and when there were several horses, the leading one had a bell attached to his neck, to warn the rest of the track through the moor. 80 BERWICKSHIRE. without horses, and with as many as six or even eight oxen. This is now entirely superseded by the improved form of Small's plough, and two horses is the common strength applied to it in all parts of the parish. Deep-trenching has been tried with success on land just reclaimed from a state of waste. Of the manures, besides the common farm-yard dung, lime is in the greatest use, and, not- withstanding the distance from which it must be brought, which is twenty miles, the farmers find their advantage in the iJt>undant ap > plication of this excellent and powerful manure. It is laid down on the field in dry heaps, and afterwards spread. This has been most successfully used on parts of the parish, where formerly the only attempt at improvement consisted in burning the heather. The fields where this manure is laid for the first time bear two successive crops of grain. Bone-dust has also been used. The pasture lands about Westruther, as in most other places of Berwickshire, anciently lay in a state of undivided common. But more than seventy years ago this promiscuous pasturage ceased, and the lands were appropriated and fences raised. Al- though in those times, when the pasture was enjoyed in common, there were certain regulations in force by which the tenants fed their flocks in various proportions, yet it cannot be doubted that the division of the pasture lands has conduced as well to order, and to the comfort of the occupiers, as it has done to the improvement of the pasture itself, and the consequent better breeding of the cattle. Such an appropriation, however, of what had for time im- memorial been regarded as common, was a work of no small diffi- culty ; and when at last it was, after much and lengthened agita- tion, brought to a termination, the scholars attending the school were brought out to be witnesses of the several boimdaries agreed on, as those who in the course of nature would live to attest the distribution of the land long after the original promoters of the scheme were removed. It was at this time, and from this circum- stance, that the feuars of Westruther arose ; the small pieces of land which they occupy, and which till very lately were very nu- merous, being held of one or other of the large proprietors of the parish. Plantations, — Westruther was formerly overrun with forests of natural wood, which have been greatly diminished within the memory of many persons who are still alive, and the only remnant that is now to be found of them is the diminutive and straggling wood at Flass. In the boggier parts of the valley, on the north side of the parish, WESTRUTHER. 81 the stumps of these old trees are visible in dry weather, and not un frequently interpose unexpected obstacles to the work of the mower. This close and stinted wood, surrounded as it was with heather and bogs, gave the whole country an aspect of dreariness and gloom.* If, however, the old natural wood has almost entirely disappeared, its place has been more than occupied by more thriv- ing and beautiful trees, planted by the hand of man. The sys- tem of planting began during the time of the grandfather of the present laird of Spottiswoode. It has been regularly carried on ever since ; and in consequence of the very spirited improvements which the last twenty-five years have witnessed, a very large proper^ tion of the parish has been beautified and sheltered with wood. Formerly it was thought the coldness of the climate was pre- judicial to the growth of plantation ; and it was even said, in the Reports of the Agriculturists, that no trees would thrive on the brow of the Lammermoor. Experience has shown that this opi- nion was wrong, since one of the most thriving plantations on the whole of Spottiswoode estate is at Bruntibum, one of the highest points in the parish. The failure and the stinted growth of trees formerly arose not from the climate so much as from the mode of planting on a wet soil, and in small belts, in which no shelter was afforded. A more judicious system is now adopted, by first drying the ground through drains, and by surrounding the more valuable with meaner wood, whose quicker and luxuriant growth may defend the infant saphng, till it in turn rises to maturity, when it can bid defiance to the blast. It must not be supposed) from what has been said of a regular and extensive system of planting being compara- tively recent, that there are no old trees in the parish. There are some of a great age, some planes, in particular, which are com- puted to be about 500 years old. Larch may be said to be most adapted to the climate ; but trees of every kind, and of every name, have been planted, and are flourishing. Improvements, — It may be mentioned, that a great deal has been done here in the way of reclaiming waste lands, and of improving by drains in various parts of Westruther. On the Spottiswoode estate alone there is the astonishing number of thirty miles of drains inter- spersed, from 5, 7, to 13 feet in depth. Besides, there are some thou- sand roods of open cuts, averaging from 10 to 20 feet wide, and from 5 to 7 feet deep, which discharge a large body of water on the eastern side into the Blackadder, and on the western side into one of * It was while wandering here, in solitary musing, that Home comQOf8e,d^ ^Isx^ greater part of his Tragedy of Douglas. BERWICK. ¥ 82 UERWICKSHIRE. the tributaries of the Leader. The advantages of this esteDsiv system of draining are incalculable ; it has brought into a state c tillage, pasture, and thriving plantation many hundred acres wfaici were formerly overflowing with water, added much beauty to tb place, and improved the salubrity of the climate, besides affbrdioj shelter to the cattle. It may be added, that the agreement betweei landlord and tenant in such matters is, that the landlord cuts thi drains, while the tenant drives the stones, and fills the trenches.' The general duration of leases is nineteen years; and perhaps in i country where so much requires to be done, it would be still mon favourable for the tenant to have the lease extended to 21 years, ai has sometimes been done. Subtenants are generally excluded. Th< entry to the possession of the houses and to the grass is at Whitsun- day, and to the arable lands at the gathering in of the crop of thai year. The first half-year's rent is payable a twelvemonth aftei entry. The farms which were about fifty years ago generally vei^ small, have been thrown together, and converted into lu;ge forms, which was certainly a good arrangement for the former, and in- deed absolutely necessary in a country where the chief dependence must always be on the stock. The rent of the largest farm at pre- sent is L. 465. Of course the difTerence cannot be ascertained from this circumstance between the rent of the present day, and the rate of land per acre at the period when the farms were ol much smaller extent. But, in general, it may be stated, as a proof of the great improvement which enlarging the farms hat been the means of introducing, that a farm which thirty yean ago was let at L.30, is now rated at L. 105. The greater part of the parish is already enclosed with hedges and dikes, and progress is daily making in that department. The accommoda- tion afforded to the farmer may be described as in every way ex- cellent. The houses are of a superior description, there being few places where any farmers can boast of a better or more elegant and commodious style of building. The houses are generally two stories high, wide in proportion, and covered with slate. The of- fices bear generally a proportion in size and neatness to the house of the farmer. They are well apportioned, consisting of a stable, cow-house, shade for the cattle, a dairy, a piggery, a poultry-house, all the appurtenances, in short, necessary for a farm estabUshment, and formed into a rectangle, the size of which varies according to * These ipiriled improTemenu have been cinied on under the ekilfiil ■uperinttn. dencc of Mr BUcli « Spottuwoode, who obuined for an etnj on dniniDg ■ ulrcr cup from iht Highland SociMf. L.d351 7»2 1578 eao 964 1345 10 160 aoo L.9270 10 WESTBUTHER. 83 the character, extent, and other circumstances of the farm. In agreements as to buildings or repairs, the tenant engages to drive the materials, such as lime, sand, stone, slate, wood, &c ; and the landlord pays the building. The same happens in the build- ing or repairing of dikes. On the whole, the greatest encourage- ment is held out by every proprietor in the parish to the tenant to make improvements, and he who does so on the most Uberal scale, not only finds his reward in the return made to him firom the improv- ed state of his farm, but also in the greater readiness of the land- lord to accommodate him, and to satisfy his reasonable demands. Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Oats, 1117 acres at L. 8, Barlejt IBS acres at L. 4y Turnips, 526 at L. d» Potatoes, 62 acres at L. 10, - • - Clover-hay, 926 acres at L. 3^ III pasture, 6764 acres at 2b. 6d. Gardens, .... Thinning and feUmg of wood* V. — Parochial Economy. Market'-TaumSi Sfc. — The nearest market^town b Lauder; and another market has been recently opened at Greenlaw, — neither of which are above seven miles from the farthest part of Westruther* The only villages now in the parish are those of Westruther and Hounslow. The former is of great antiquity ; the latter was erected within these fifty years. Means of Communication. — There is no post-office in the^>arish, but while the family of Spottiswoode reside in the country, a cou- rier is despatched daily to the post-office in Lauder^ of which ar- rangement, the parish, as well as the family, receives the benefit. The mail-curricle runs every day, and the Edinburgh and Dunse coach six days a-week, along the great road from Edinburgh to Newcastle, which passes through Hounslow. This line of road extends about five miles through the parish. The parish, indeed, is very well supplied with good roads. There were no roads, except such as were made by the track, in the year 1745 ; for a person re- cently dead remembers well to have seen Sir John Cope's troops in their flight from Prestonpans, scouring the Harelaw-moor, and inquiring in what direction Coldstream lay. The road from White-" bum to Kelso was made in IdOO ; that from Whitebum to Dunse^ during the subsequent year, by subscri^tvou. \\.\!Da;?^\ifc^^^Cxxs»^Ri^ 84 BERWICKSHIRE. that there are upwards of fifteen miles of turnpike roads, — on which there are three bridges, and all in excellent condition. Ecclesiastical State, — The church is nearly in the centre of the parish, about three miles distant from the extremities; and although it is three quarters of a mile from the manse, yet perhaps there is not another place in all respects so eligible for the site of the church, as where it now stands. It was built, as already noticed, in the year 1649, — a very plain building, covered with heather without, and uncoiled within, but much larger and more com- modious than it now is. In the year 1752, it underwent imports ant alterations, as, besides the necessary repairs it received, it was reduced to its present small dimensions. The reason of this reduction in its size was, that the bodily infirmities of the mi- nister, together with the breaking out of the Secession, and the ap- pointment of one of that body to a place in Stitchel, who, to his other popular attractions, added the charm of preaching in the open air, had so greatly reduced the congregation, that it was agreed upon, for the comfort of the small remnant that frequented it, to reduce the church to one-third of its size; and, accordingly, the Wedderlie aisle, which fronted the pulpit, and which is said to have been ornament- ed with the family arms, and other carved work, and to have been altogether the best part of the church, w^as taken away. The roof also was lowered, while the steeple, uncurtailed of its length, re- mained the sole memorial of the ancient dignity of the building. Since that period, the church of Westrulher has received no in- termediate repairs of consequence, and was so rapidly falling into decay, that the heritors in 1807, met^ from time to time, to concert measuf es for a new building. But their consultations at that time ended in some repairs, which, though designed to be only temporary, have been considered sufficient to the presentflay. It is believed that the heritors, than whom none can be more attentive to the wants of a parish, have it in contemplation to improve the present condition of the church. The edifice, as it now stands, may accommodate from 350 to 400 people. There are free sittings in the centre, which will accommodate about thirty people. It may be mentioned among the many good effects produced by the ministry of Mr Veitch in Westruther, that, in consequence of the vast multitudes who repaired to him, especially on sacramental occasions, when persons of the first respectability came from all parts of the surrounding country, and some from as far as Edin- burgh, and even Fife, the collections for the poor were most libe- ral, and far exceeded the demand made by the greatest number WESTRUTHER. 85 ever found at one time in the parish. They were allowed, there- fore, to accumulate, and were never encroached upon till the scar- city in 1800, already alluded to, together with other unfortunate circumstances, greatly reduced them. They still, however, amount to a considerable sum. There have been three manses since Westruther became a pa- rish. Of the first, the only relic that remains is the foundation-stone, a large shapeless block of whinstone, inscribed with the initials of John Veitch, 1649. These three manses have stood all nearly on the same site, although they have been successively withdrawn a few yards farther south from the road, — which is now felt to be an advan- tage, from its admitting a small plantation, that adds to the beauty and comfort of the place. The present one was built in 1819. The expense of the building, L. 584, 18s. It is a commodious and comfortable house, and is furnished with excellent oflSces. The glebe consists of rather more than twenty acres, of which there may be four that lie constantly in pasture ; the rest is good arable land, particularly the east part of it, on which excellent wheat is often raised. It varies much in the quality of the soil; but its general value, in the eyes of practical farmers, is estimated from about L.25 to L. 30 a-year. Its extent, which is larger than the legal allotment, was probably occasioned by the state of the western part of it, which formed originally a branch of Westruther common : on that common the minister had, with others, the right of pasturage at his pleasure, and a large portion of it was assigned to him in lieu of the extensive privilege he resigned. The stipend of West- ruther was fixed at 1000 merks by decreet of locality dated 8th March 1693. In 1755 it was L.63, 12s. lOd. In 1798 it amount- ed to L. 105, 1 6s. 8d. Sterling. It was raised to L. 150 when the Government bounty was extended to Scotland, which, together with L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements, and L. 2, 10s. forgiving up the right of casting turf on Bassendean estate, makes the total amount of the minister's stipend L. 160, 16s. 8d. The number of dissenters is computed at 34, all of whom belong to what was originally called the Secession. The parish church itself is very well attended. The average number of com- municants is 420. The collection at the sacrament in 1833 was L. 2, 14s. 3^d., and the total amount of contributions during that year was L. 17, 18s. 3jd. Education, — There seems to have been a parish school here ever since there was a church. The school, however^ 'W'a^ Vss^ in the western gallery of the chuTcYv l\\\ ^owV \>cift SvtsX q^^»\k^ ^^ 86 BEIiWlCKSHIRE. the last centurj', when, by accident, the gallery took fire and destroyed. This was the first occasion of the erection of a schcwl- house in Westruther. The present school-house is a spacious apartment, well-ventilated, and heated by a stove recently erected at the expense of the heritors. The teacher, who has been quar lified by the most liberal education, has the legal accommodations, but the minimum salary. The amount of school-fees he receives may be about L.10 a-year ; he has also L. 5 a-year for collecting poors' rate. Besides the parish school there are three private schools, which are supported by individual subscription. The branches taught at all of these are the same; and the rate of school-fees is per quarter, 2s. 6d. for English reading ; Ss. 6di for reading and writing; 4s. 6d. for arithmetic; 78. 6d. for Latin. There are no persons in the parish between six and fifteen years of age who cannot read or write. It may be added, that a Sabbath- school, which the writer instituted a few years ago, is well attended. Library, — The people are fond of reading, the means of indulg- ing in which are liberally afforded to the inhabitants of the west end of the parish, from a stock of small and popular works pur- chased, and furnished to them gratuitously, by the family of Spot- tiswoode. A library is on the eve of being established for the be- nefit of the parish at large. The family library at Spottiswoode is a valuable and extensive collection, containing a variety of works on law, history, and general literature, — many of them such as are not commonly to be met with. There are also some rare editions of well-known books. Savings Bank — A savings bank was established in 1815. From its commencement to November last, there was deposited the sum of L. 1286, and withdrawn L. 1077. The investments are chiefly made by servants and labourers. The average amount of deposits yearly for the last eighteen years, is L. 72 ; of withdrawals, L.60. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons on the poors' roll is 24, and the average expense L. 4, Ids. 4d. per annum. The assessment was L. 91, 16s. Id. The collections, L. 20, 5s. 4d. The total amount, L. 112, Is. 5d. in the year 1S32. The assessment fluctuates between L. 70 and L. 90 per annum. This legal provision, though it is not without its attendant evils, has not produced such injurious effects here as in some other places, — the poor being in general satisfied with the allowance made to them, as well as reluctant to come upon the roll. There are no benevolent societies for supplying the wants of the poor. Fortu- nately there is no occasion for these, since, in addition to the as- WESTRUTHJER. 87 sessment, the family of the principal resident proprietor are inde- fatigable and exemplary in attending to the wants of the poor ; and even during their periodical absence, they furnish the minister and others with the means of relieving the indigent and the distressed. We may say, indeed, that there are few parishes where the condi- tion of the poorer classes is better than in Westruther. . This parish has long been peculiarly infested by sturdy beggars and vagrants. But by a regulation lately made on the threatened appearance of cholera, they were prohibited from being entertained in the parish ; in consequence of which, few or none are now to be seen. The same regulation adopted in other parishes, could not fail to be equally beneficial. The minds of the benevolent in this parish were reconciled to the measure by a subscription raised to provide lodging and necessaries for those houseless wanderers who might be overtaken here by night /nn«.— -There are five alehouses in the parish, — more than are required for the convenience of the inhabitants. It is proper, how- ever, to add, that the working-classes of Westruther are generally a sober race. Fuel. — The nearest place whence coals can be procured is about twenty miles distant from this parish, in consequence of which numbers are precluded from the use of them. The fuel in general use is peat. The wages of a labourer employed in digging this fuel are 2s. 2d. per day ; and two days' work of a caster, with two assistants to hurl and spread out the peats as they are cast, are reckoned suflScient to meet the demand of a hind's or labour- er's family. The farmers, and others in better circumstances, take sometimes a much longer time. Coal is from lid. to Is. per cwt. Turf is now prohibited to be taken for fuel. Miscellaneous Observations. This parish has been advancing for a long time in an almost geometrical progression, in everything that constitutes a *^ right moral, and a right economical," state of a parish, — in its general appearance, — in the rank it holds among the agricultural parishes of the county, — in its means of communication with other parts of the country, — and in the intelligence of its inhabitants. Forty years ago more than a third of the land was waste and incapable of improvement, on a great proportion of which the yellow com is now seen to wave ; and if a similar interval pass before a third Statis- tical Account be demanded, such an inroad shall have been made on the few bogs and mosses that are still unimproved^ as will leave little to tell of the ancient condition of W^^Uvy\}ck'ek\\i«^wv^'^er acre, ...... 140 Q Potatoes, 10 acres, allowing 20 bolls per acre, at 68. per boll, - 60 Sown grass 2000 stone at §A, per stone, - « - - M Natural hay 5000 stones at 3d. per stone, > - • 62 10 L. 1082 19 4\ Manufactures. — It may be mentioned under this head, that two ingenious young men of the name of Bertram, both blacksmiths, have lately invented an instrument, by which their labour in form- ' ing hoops for carriage wheels of every diameter is wonderfully abridged, and the fuel generally used completely saved. They can produce twelve cart hoops in this way in one hour, without the use of fire, except in joining the two points, and without the use of the hammer at any other part of the process. This instrument must soon come into general use : indeed, drawings of it have been sought, and one of these little machines is already at work at In- nerwick in East Lothian. It is intended to make an effort to se- cure a patent for these young men, who, for character and genius, are highly deserving of patronage. CRANSHAWS. 103 V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church is rather inconvenient for the one-half of the parishioners, being about five miles from several of their houses, and yet it would be impossible to find a site for it equidistant from the two inhabited portions of this parish, without removing it out of the parish entirely, it being intersected, as already stated, by a part of Longformacus parish. It was built in 1739, and is probably in a Worse state of repair than any Established church in the south of Scotland. The present manse was built in 1811, and wants the necessary accommodation, having only one room on the ground-floor. Both it and the church are about to undergo repairs at present, and do certainly require them, being in a much worse state than most hunting stables in the county. The church accommodates 120 persons. The extent of the glebe is fifteen acres, and when in good order might be let at L. 1, lOs. per acre. ,The stipend is upon the Government bounty list, and is all paid in money, amounting to L. 150, with L.8^ 6s. 8d. for communion elements. Every family in this parish attends the Established church. The number of hearers may be about 100 or upwards. They are regular in their attendance, and very attentive during divine service. The number of communicants (inclusive of those from other parishes) varies from 80 to 100. There is a Bible Society in this parish, but contributions have not been pressed for a few years in consequence of the circum- stances of the district When first instituted, the annual receipts were about L. 15 per annum, but the decrease was rapid, as was to be expected among such a poor population. Occasional col- lections are made at the church for the Scottish Missionary So- ciety, the General Assembly schools, and the Edinburgh Infirmary, the whole amount obtained for these institutions being under L. 5 per annum. Education. — We have no school but the parochial, in which all the usual branches of education are taught. The salary is the maximum, and the school fees amount to L. 10 per annum. The expense of education is from 10s. to 16s. per annum, according to the respective attainments of the scholars. The schoolmaster's house is a good one of two stories, and the garden of the legal ex- tent There is not an individual in the parish who has reached the age of 15 but can both read and write. Library. — We have a parochial library under the patronaj^ cs^ 104 BERWICKSHIRE. George Biichan, Esq. of Kelloe, who very generously presented to it L. 5. The number of volumes at present amounts to 200, and a large addition is expected when our own heritors shall favour us with their subscriptions. Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are at present three persons all aged and infirm, receiving parochial aid, and the sum given to each is Is. 6d. per week. The minister proposed to the heritors of this parish several years ago, that the regular assessment for the maintenance of the poor should be dispensed with, and something in the name of donation substituted when the kirk-session should require it. This proposal was thankfully accepted by the heritors, and is still acted upon. For several years the contribution of the heritors in this way has amounted to L. 12 per annum. The ave- rage amount of church collections is L. 6 a-year. Fuel. — The fuel in general use is peat and turf, which may cost about Is. 6d. per cart, when ready for using, and Is. more when brought home. Miscellaneous Observations. To improve this parish, a good road is indispensable from three miles to the cast of the manse to the head of Whitadder. There is a very level line for the purpose. The materials are at hand throughout that distance, and some miles would be saved to the traveller. Plantations also are much wanted. July 1834, PARISH OF ABBEY ST BATHANS. PRESBYTERY OF DUNSE, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TIVIOTDALE. THE REV. JOHN WALLACE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Boundaries, Sfc. — The name of this parish has been va- riously written ; St Boythans, St Bothans, and St Bathans. St Boythans occurs in the more ancient writings. St Bothans was the usual form till the early part of the last century ; and St Bathans, which was then introduced, has continued to be the name ever since. The prefix abbey was first made use of at an earlier pe- riod, and was probably employed to distinguish this parish where there was formerly a convent, from that of Gifford, or Yester, in East Lothian, anciently called St Bothans, where there was a collegiate church, but no monastic establishment The mean length of the parish of Abbey St Bathans from east to west is about 3} miles, and its mean breadth from north to south about 2^ miles ; the whole extent of the surface falls somewhat short of 8 square miles. It is of an irregular figure, and is divided into two portions by a detached part of the pa- rish of Longformacus. It is bounded on the north by Cockbums- path, Oldhamstocks and Innerwick, on the west by Longformacus, on the south by Dunse, and on the east by Coldingham and Buncle. The church and manse, which lie nearly in the centre of the parish, are about fourteen miles southward of Dunbar, and about seven miles northward of Dunse ; their latitude being about 55^ 52' N., and their longitude about 2° 23' W. Topographical Appearances. — Though the parish is situated among the Lammermoor hills, none of the more remarkable eleva- tions of that range lie within its bounds. The high grounds rise to a height varying from 300 to 400 feet above the intervening vales, and then spread out into extensive flats. On the sides of the streams which drain the hills are flats or haughs of considerable fertility — the slopes are also in many cases fertile ; but the greater part of the higher grounds is barren and covered with heath. 106 BERWICKSHIRE. Hydrography — The river Whitadder winds in a sinuous course through the parish, its general direction being from west to east. It is here a beautiful stream, upwards of eighty feet in breadth. Before it enters the parish, it has run about twelve miles from its source, and has received the river Dye, with many smaller streams. In its progress through the parish it receives a number of streamlets from the dells and vales that occur among the hills ; but its two principal tributaries are the Monynut and the Ware, flowing in a south-easterly direction. Mineralogy. — Veins of copper-ore having been discovered on the estate of St Bathans, an English mining company obtained right by lease in the year 1828 to work this mineral; but after driving in a single mine, they abandoned the undertaking. IL — Civil History. Historical Notices. — Small as this parish now is, it consisted be- fore the Reformation of two parishes. These were St Bathans and Strafontane. We will trace the history of each separately. With regard to St Bathans, it appears that soon after the in- troduction of Christianity into this part of the country, (an event which took place in the early part of the seventh century,) a church was founded here, and dedicated to the saint whose name the pa- rish now bears. "^ Like that of Coldingham, it was, during the * Chalmers* Caledonia, VoL ii. p. 212, 344.-^There is reason to beUcve that this holy f>erson was St Baithen, cousin to the celebrated St Columba, and his suoecasor as Abbot of lona. St Baithen employed much of his time in propagating the doc« trincs of Christianity in the country now called Scotland, and in establishing churches there. He died on 9th June 596. That it may be seen on what grounds the writer of this article coniectures that this parish derived its name from St Baithen, he shall add a short explanation. There are four saints whose names bear a close resemblance to that of this parish. Tliese are the following : If/, St Bothan. According to Chalmers, St Bothan was the pa- tron of this parish, (Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 344.) But this saint was a bishop of Dun- blane, (Camerarius de pietate Scotorum,) and must therefore have lived after the erec- tion of that bishopric by David I. The church of St Bathans, however, was dedi- cated to its saint many centuries before. If it be said that St Bothan, who it not mentioned in Keith's Catalogue of the Bishops, may have been a member of the con- vent of Culdces, which was established at Dunblane before the erection of the bishopw ric, this circumstance would not increase the probability of his being the patron saint of this parish, because in that case he must have flourished subsequent to the time of St Blaan, from whom Dunblane derived its name; and, as St Blaan lived in the reign of Kenneth III. (Keith's Catalogue,) St Bothan could not have been the person to whom the church of St Bathans was dedicated some ages before. 2d, St Bathan. He is said to have been a bishop or teacher and confessor throughout the whole of Scotland, but chiefly in Orkney and Shetland, (Camerarius.) It is not likely that a church would be dedicated to him in the Saxon kingdom of Northumberland, in which kingdom this parish was then situated. Camerarius confounds this saint with the following : Ddl, St Baithan. He was one of the persons to whom a celebrated letter from Pope John was addressed in G40, preserved in Bede. He was Bishop of Clon- maenois in Ireland, (Jameson's History of the Culdecs, p. 1()4,) and it is not there- fore probable that lie was tlie saint to whom the church of St Bathans was dedicated. ABBEY ST BATHANS. 107 incursions of the Danes, destroyed more than once by fire; a cala- mity to which such edifices were in those days peculiarly liable from their having been constructed of wood, bi a subsequent age it became a living of considerable value, ^ but at the Reformation its revenues were reduced to a very small amount At the church of St Bathans a convent of Cistertian nuns, with the title of a Priory, was founded between the years 1 184 and 1200 by Ada, daughter to King William the Lion, and wife to Patrick Earl of Dunbar. From this lady and her husband, and from sub- sequent benefactors, the institution received various grants in lands and revenues, and among other benefactions the patronage of the church, a grant which enabled the nuns, by appointing a vicar, to appropriate to themselves the large revenues of the living. The property thus acquired consisted of a considerable estate in the immediate neighbourhood of the convent, various detached sub- jects lying in the counties of East Lothian and Berwick, and a large revenue in tithes, f About the time of the Reformation the lands were alienated by the prioress and nuns, principally to Lord Home, for payment of annual feu-duties; and, on the final suppres- sion of monasteries, the benefice itself was gifted to Elizabeth Home, a relative of the same nobleman, and wife to Adam Cuming, Com- mendator of Beauly ; and, by a transaction with her, and through the favour of the crown, it was subsequently acquired by David, son to Patrick Lindsay, Bishop of Ross, afterwards Archbishop of Glas- gow, who seems to have disposed of it in parcels to various indivi- duals. Elizabeth Home took the title of Prioress, and David Lindsay that of Prior of St Bathans. % Besides the church and priory of St Bathans, a chapel was founded in this parish, but by whom, or at what time, does not ap- pear. 4ihf St Baithen. Besides the circumstance that none of his competitors seem to have any claim, there are various reasons for supposing that St Baithen is entitled to be considered as the patron saint of this parish. 1. About the time at which the church was founded, a constant intercourse subsisted between this part of the country and lona, where St Baithen was abbot. 2. Like his rektion, St Columba, St Baithen preached in this part of the country ; and, 3. the name of this saint and the most an- cient name of this parish (St Boythan) are very similar in sound* * See Taxatio in Chakners' Caledonia, ii. 9^ -t" The estate in the neighbourhood of the convent consisted of the fiurms of St Ba- thans, Frampath, and Hardhissells, with their com and waulk-mills, Blackerston, and the half of Quixwood. The other properties of the priory were situated in Stenton, Pople, Belhaven, Cockburnspath, Butterdean, Billie, Dunse, Ninewar, Kimmergham, and Edinburgh ; and its tithes consisted of those of Waughton and Craquha, of the town and mains of Cockburnspath and their steadings, including Fulfordlees and the two Hoprigs, the two Shiells, Rauchenside and Cloves, and those of the farms be* longing to the convent itself— (Title-deeds of the Benefice.) I See Title- Deeds. 108 BERWICKSHIRE. The history of the parish of Strafontane commences in the reign of David II., in which reign an hospital was founded here; but the name of the founder is forgotten. This house seems at one time to have been dependent on the abbey of Alnwick. It was in 1437 transferred by the abbot of that pkce to the monas- tery of Dryburgh ; * and it came ultimately into the possession of the collegiate church of Dunglass, and gave a title to one of the prebends. Its original destination as an hospital was changed to that of a church; but public worship ceased to be performed in it at the Reformation. Its cure was then united to that of St Bathans. f Eminent Men. — As a remarkable person connected with tliis parish, David Hume of Godscroft may be mentioned. This ac- complished gentleman, who was the son of Sir David Hume of Wedderbum, held a conspicuous place among the miscellaneous writers of the seventeenth century, and was one of the early and most intimate friends of the celebrated Andrew Melville. He was extensively acquainted with the ancient and modem languages, theology, politics, and history ; and among those who at that pe- riod were distinguished for their skill in the composition of Latin poetry, which was then enthusiastically cultivated, there were few who showed a mind more deeply imbued with its genuine spirit. X Antiquities. — The church of St Bathans is a very ancient build- ing. The north and east walls still bear marks of antiquity. In • Clialmcrs' Caledonia, ii. 348. f Report to Commission of Teinds preserved in Register IIouso, Edinburgh. X Tlie works of David Hume of Godscroft consist of, (1.) Latin Poems, several of which were printed in a separate form, and were collected and published under the title ** Foemata Omnia, &c." at Paris, 1639. 8vo. — (2.) Tractatus de Unionc Insula Britannicae. Lond. 1005. 4to. And reprinted at the end of the ** Poemata** 1639. — (3.) Camdenexi, sive Vindicia? Buchanani contra Camden um. M.S. 4to. — (4.} History of the House of Douglas and Angus. Edinburgh, 1743. 2 vols. 12ino. N. B. — There was a David Hume, minister of one of the Protestant churches abroad, the author of one or two works in French and Latin, which have been usually attributed to David Hume of Godscroft. Whether he was any relation does not ccr- tainly appear. James Hume, doctor of medicine, son of David Hume of Godscroft, was the au- thor of the following works : — ( 1 . ) Pataleonis Vaticinia Satyra ad Dom. Rob. Kerum, &c. Rothemagi, 163a ISmo — <2.) Trait^ de la Trigonometric, &c. Paris, 1636. small Svo. — (3.) Algebre de Fran9oiB Vietc d*une Methode Nouvelle, par Jacques Hume, Escuyer. Paris, 1636. 8vo. — (4.) Latin Poems, &c. subjoined to the vo- lume ** Poemata, &c." of his father, David Hume of Godscroft, printed at Paris 1639. 8vo. James Hume appears to have been editor of the volume. — (5. ) Methode Uni- verselle pour faire ct dcscrire toutes sortes dcs Quadrans et d*Horiloges, avec Nou- velle Demonstratione fort belle et Curieuse. Paris, 1640. 8vo. Anna Hume, daughter of David Hume of Godscroft. She published in English verse, " The Triumphs of Love — Chastity — Death. Transited out of Petrarch by Mrs Anna Hume." Edinburgh, 1644. Small 8vo. 3 ABBEY ST BATHANS. 109 the former is to be seen an arched door, now built up, which com- municated with the residence of the nuns. The ancient Gothic architecture of the east window is still in some measure preserved ; and in the wall near the altar was a stone font with a leaden pipe in the bottom. The building was formerly large, measuring 58 feet by 26 ; but about the end of last century it^ was greatly contracted by the removal of the west wall to a position nearer the centre. Adjoining the church, and between it and the Whitadder, the remains of the priory were visible a few years ago, but they have now entirely disappeared, — the stones having been carried away for various purposes. From the vestiges, however, which could then be traced, the buildings seem to have been of considerable extent The house was supplied with water from a spring in the rising ground to the south by means of leaden pipes, parts of which have at diflferent times been dug up. To the south and east of the church lay the gardens of the priory, thence called the pre- cincts yards, and round the whole was a walk composed of three tiers of stones. On the east side of these gardens was another walk of considerable breadth, bearing the name of the Bjshop's Loan. At some distance east from the church, in a woody nook, issues a spring named St Bathan's well, which, according to the super- stition of ancient times, had the power of healing diseases ; and which still, as is the belief in the neighbourhood, neither fogs nor freezes, and even prevents a mill-lead into which it flows from being locked up with ice in the winter. Farther east, and about a quarter of a mile from the church, were to be seen some years ago the foundations of the chapel, and of a wall enclosing a small space around it. This space bore no marks of having been used as a place of interment. These foun- dations have now been removed on account of the obstruction they presented to the operations of agriculture, but the field that con- tained them is still called Chapel-Jkld, Like most of the other ancient buildings in the district, the re- mains of the church of Strafontane, which was situated about a mile west of St Bathans, on the south side of the Monynut, have 'disappeared before the encroachments of the plough. It is, how- ever, but a few years since the foundations of this church were ex- tant, with the mouldering tombstones around it ; and it is said that 110 BERWICKSHIRB. within a century, (i e, that is since 17dO,) burials have taken place here. It is a favourite article of belief in this quarter, that a subtora- nean passage exists leading from the nunnery of St Bathans, be- low the Whitadder, to the church of Strafontane, by wbich the nuns went, unseen, to be confessed by the clergy there. III. — Population. The parish is thinly inhabited, the whole population by the census of 1831 amounting to no more than 121 souls, of whom 66 are males, and 55 females. As compared with the number of m- habitants in 1821, there is a decrease of 29 souls in the popula- tion ; but this diminution is accounted for by the circumstance of young unmarried men being preferred to married men as servants, by some of the tenants who now occupy the farms. It appears, however, that the population of this parish, though subject to tem- porary fluctuation, has gradually decreased in numbers for two cen- turies past. This seems chiefly to have arisen from the enlarge- ment of farms, two or three being now united into one. Thus the farm of Abbey St Bathans consists of lands which, till within these last hundred years, were divided into three separate farms, viz. St Bathans, Frampath, and Hardhissells ; and besides a corn-mill, there was a waulk-mill on the same estate, till within these fifty years. There is in the parish one resident proprietor of land of the yearly value of about L. 50. The number of unmarried men up- wards of fifty years of age is 4, and of unmarried women upwards of forty-five, 3. The whole number of houses in the parish is 29, of which 23 are inhabited ; and the number of families also 23. The inhabitants are in general sober, frugal, and industrious in their habits, and are contented with their situation and circumstan- ces, which are such as to afford them, in a reasonable degree, the comforts and advantages of society. IV. — Industry. The parish consists of six farms, containing in all about 5000 acres of land. Of this surface about 2600 acres are hill pasture, never cultivated; about 100 acres are covered with wood; and the remainder, about 2300 acres, are arable. Husbandry. — The lands, like other parts of Lammermoor, are in general more adapted to the breeding of cattle and sheep than to the raising of corn; but on the several farms there is a consider- ABBEY ST BATHANS. Ill able part of the grounds under cultivation, and different kinds of grain, particularly early oats and barley, are produced, little infe- rior in quality to those raised in the lower parts of Berwickshire. The five break rotation of crops is generally employed, namely, turnips, barley, grass, and oats, the grass being allowed to lie for two years ; but a crop of pease is sometimes introduced, in which case the grass is allowed to lie for only one year. The chief object, however, that the skilful farmer has in view in making use of the plough, is not so much the immediate return from the com that he raises, as the amelioration of the pasture for his cattle and sheep, by sowing his fields with artificial grass seeds, particularly rye-grass and white clover, which thrive well on all the dry grounds that have been improved with lime, and also the pro- curing of hay, turnips, and straw, as food and litter for his stock during the winter. This method of husbandry enables the farmer not only to keep a much greater quantity of stock, but also greatly to improve the breed both of his cattle and sheep. Rent of Land, — The average rient of grazing on out-field pas- ture is at the rate of from 25s. to d5s. per ox or cow, and at the rate of about 3s. per ewe or full-grown sheep pastured for the year. But the summer pasture of a cow, if she is grazed on sown grass, is at least L. 3. The expense of furnishing a pair of horses with harness, &c to fit them for draught in the cart and plough, is about L. 10. The smith work necessary to keep a plough in repair^ and a pair of hors- es properly shod, costs about L. 3. Price of Labour, — The wages of male servants who get their board in the house are about L. 8 a-year ; of female servants about L. 5 for the summer half year, (field labour being then required,) and from L. 1, 10s. to L.2 for the winter half year. Servants who have families and keep a house are paid in grain, have a cow grazed, and other perquisites, which altogether amount to about L.25 yearly. The wages of a day-labourer are about Is. 8d. or 2s. a-day in summer, and about Is. 6d. in winter. In hay time and harvest they are considerably more. Breeds of Live^ock,^—TLhe breeds of sheep commonly kept on the farms are the black-faced and the Cheviot, but chiefly the lat- ter; and to improve the stock, the black-faced and Cheviot, ewe is often crossed with the Leicester tup. Improvements, — On one farm in the parish the present tenant has, in the space of six years, improved, out of heath, upwards oC 112 BERWICKSHIRE. 100 acres of land, at the expense of about L.5 per acre. The ad- vantage derived from the improvement of the pasture is found to afford a sufficient return upon the capital thus employed. Surface draining is found to be a great improvement on the stock farms in Lammermoor, and has been carried to a considerable ex- tent By cutting a trench about 24 inches wide and 14 inches deep in a proper direction, the water is allowed to escape from the surface of boggy land ; and instead of the rushes, &c produced in swampy situations, there rises a natural grass mixed with white clover. Great advantage would result to the tenant from more accom- modation in the way of houses for cattle, &c. than is at present found on some of the farms ; and generally from more extensive enclosing ; strips of plantation judiciously situated for shelter would also be very conducive to his interest. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish may be estimated as follows : Average produce of grain of all kinds, about 1200 quarters, at the arerage price \s^ 118 BERWICKSHIRE. In this parish ahso was bom, in the year 17d5, the celebrated dical theorist, Dr John Browne, author of the system called from him the Brunonian system. Of the merits of this extraordinaiy inr dividual as an author and philosopher, it is not for us to speak* It seems to be agreed that his temper led him rather to aspire to the honour of an inventor in his science, at the risk of incurring the imputation of dogmatism, than to be content with the solid but slower praise which is the reward of the severe observer and inter- preter of nature. But, however this be, enough of merit will still be his, in having stirred the depths of speculation at a time when the spirit of inquiry was not so prevalent as at present; and, whether his doctrines have stood or fallen, they excited an intense interest in their day, and have no doubt still their influence in the present state of medical knowledge. Land-oicners. — There are nine proprietors of land in this parish. Baronies ofDunkle and Preston, — The ancient baronies of Bunkle and Preston, comprehending 4774 acres of arable land, 1600 of moor or heath, and 350 of wood, which are more than two-thirds of the whole parish, belong to the noble family of Douglas. As far back as can be traced from ancient records, the former of these manors was possessed by Sir Alexander de Bonkle, and appears to have been transferred from him in 1288 to Sir John Stewart, se- cond son of Alexander, the Steward of Scotland, by his marrying the onlv child and heiress of said Sir Alexander de Bonkle. From Sir John Stewart it passed likewise by an heiress to a different branch of the Stewarts, whose grandson was created Earl of Angus and Lord de Bonkle ; and a grand-daughter of this Earl, by marry- ing William Earl of Douglas, carried the property from the race of the Stewarts to the family of Douglas, with whom it remains. It may not be improper to notice, that one of the descendants of this ancient family of Stewart, having married the sister of King Robert Bruce, the son of this marriage, in right of his mother, the male line of Bruce being extinct, ascended the Scottish throne in 1371. This was Robert the Second, and first of the Stewarts. Of the ancient castle of Bunkle, once the residence of the Stewarts, only small vestiges remain. It seems to have been a place of consi- derable strength, surrounded with a moat, which is now greatly filled up. The estate of Blenerne, containing 960 arable acres^ and 45 of wood, among which are some very aged trees, belongs referring entirely to the operation of fvecond causes the continual tendency to decay and the sources of renovation, which he imugined he discovered in the mundane system. BUNKLE AND PRESTON. 119 to the Rev. Edward Sandys Lumsdaine. This beautiful proper- ty, lying along the course of the river, has been in the possession of the family of Lumsdaine for many centuries. It still shows the ruins of an ancient castle, near the present mansion-house. The lands of Billie, measuring 900 arable acres, and 20 of wood, are the property of William Forman Home, Esq. of Billie and Pax- ton, on which are the ruins of an old castle. The other properties in this parish are of small extent Antiquities, — Along the southern verge of the Lammermoor-* hills, immediately above the ruins of the old castle, are vestiges of several ancient encampments, at short distances from each other, forming a line along the southern verge of the hill, of three or four miles extent from east to west. These camps are for the most part of a circular form, each enclosing about two acres of ground. Of their antiquity or origin, tradition fur- nishes no account. Their appearance would seem to carry them back to the times of the Picts ; to an era at least anterior to the overthrow of their kingdom, in the year of our faith 839. But ta whatever period their origin may be assigned, it appears sufficiently obvious, that they were intended as a barrier against the incursions^ of a southern foe, as they lie along the verge of the hill, at places where the ascent from the south is more gradual and easy, and therefore requires the strongest defence. One of the most entire of these camps is at the head of the cleugh near Preston. It is surrounded with a line of double ramparts or mounds of earth, with corresponding ditches, even yet ten or twelve feet deep, leaving an opening on the east and west sides, as gateways to the interior* IIL — Population. Families. Males. Females. Totak 1790, 131 280 340 622 1801, 133 315 359 674 1811, 148 371 396 767 1821, 149 376 411 • 787 1831, 142 357 391 740 None of the greater heritors reside at present in the parish^ Most of the tenants have neat and commodious houses, maintain a respectable rank in society, and live comfortably. The other inhabitants are chiefly employed in agricultural labour. Their houses consist in general of one apartment only, which, in case^ of family affliction, are found to be extremely inconvenient. In other respects, they enjoy a fair share of the comforts of life, and are quite contented with their condition. Living in a district whercJ - scarcely any manufactures are carried on, they are not givew.l'Ci^^:J55tf- 120 BERWICKSHIRE. tics, but are sober and industrious in their habits^ decent in their ex- ternal deportment, and respectful to their superiors. Before the practice of draining the marshy lands was introduced, and wh«i the lower orders were neither so well fed nor so comfortably lodged, the ague was prevalent in this part of the country, which malady is now scarcely known. During the last eight or nine years, several old men died in this parish between 80 and 90 years of age, and one last autumn, at the advanced age of 108. This man had been for many years blind, but he was comfortably provided for by the family of Blenerne, in whose service he had long been, and enjoyed good health and good spirits till his death. There has been only one illegitimate birth in the parish for several years. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — This parish contains 9300 acres, of which 7280 are arable, 1600 moorland or heath, and 420 are covered with wood, chiefly Scotch fir, for the most part re- cently planted. Of the 7280 acres of arable land, one-hsdf is us- ually in tillage, the other half in pasture. Of the former kind, two-thirds, or 2426 acres, are on an average in white crop, and the remaining third in potatoes, turnips, and bare fallow. Improvements. — Though this is principally a grazing district, yet, during the last thirty years, it has undergone great melioration in the soil; in consequence of which high advances have been made in the rents. Some farms which were let for L. 500 durinfi^ the previous leases are at present as high as L. 1600 ; others that brought little more than L.200 bring under the running leases above L. 1000. Under the previous leases, the rental of the whole pa- rish amounted only to L. 3200 : it is at present above L. 8000. To this extraordinary advance, which some think is in a higher ratio than in most other districts, several causes may have contri- buted. The former leases in this barony were mostly for a pe- riod of thirty years, and many of the tenants, possessed of conside- rable capital as well as skill and enterprise, spared no expense in reclaiming waste and barren lands, expecting from such long leases ample and adequate returns. By such speculations, some have improved their circumstances, but others have sustained pecuniary loss, in consequence of the fall on the price of grain since the termination of the war, and of the great advance of the rents, dur- BUNKLE AND PRESTON. 121 ing the present leases, induced by the high state of improvement, to which they had brought their farms. Husbandry. — The general mode of cultivation is by a rotation of crops, consisting of two or three years of pasture, followed by three years of tillage. There are upwards of fifty ploughs in the pa* rish, but the farmers give their chief attention to the rearing of sheep, of which there are on some of the greater farms no less than 1500 or 1600. These are mostly of the Leicester breed, to the improvement of which great attention is paid. Nearly all the waste land that was capable of cultivation has been brought un- der tillage, and so great had been the quantity of this, that one* half of the land now under the plough has been reclaimed from marshy bogs and barren hills, by draining, liming, and enclosing mostly at the expense of the tenant The extent of the farms is various, being from 50 to 1300 acres, and the rents from L. 80 to L. 1600. For sometime back ho leases have been given for a longer period than nineteen or twenty-one years. The houses on the farms are upheld by the tenants, but at the conunencement of a lease, a small sum is usually allowed by the landlord to put them in a state of repair. The fences are good or indifferent, accord- ing to the quality and situation of the land ; great part of the soil lying on a moorland, is unfavourable to the growth of thorn-hedges, and the dikes, being built of round smooth stones without lime, stand in need of frequent repairs. The roads are entirely supported by the statute*labour con- version money, and are kept in good repair, the materials for this purpose being easily obtained. Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish, as far as can be ascertained, is as follows : Grain of all kinds, cultivated for food of man or domestic animals, L. 10,114 Potatoes, turnips, bay, also pasture, - ... . . . 6051 L. 16165 N. B. — The land in white crop, before noticed, is supposed to yield about four quarters of barley or oats per acre, at a medium price, per quarter, of L. 1, Is. 8d. Beef and mutton are calcu^ lated at 5d. per pound, wool at L. 1, 4s. per stone. There is but little wheat raised in the parbh, and no more hay than supplies the farmers. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — There is no market-toww\vwNJws»^^~ 122 BERWICKSHIRE. rish ; Dunse, which is five miles distant, is the nearest. There is no village, nor post-office, nor inn, nor public-house of any kind. Ecclesiastical State. — The parishes of Bunkle and Preston, ori- ginally separate (charges, were about 120 years ago united as one cure, and for several years after this union public worship was per- formed in each alternately. This continued for several years; but both churches coming to need repair, that of Bunkle being most centrical, was sufficiently fitted up to accommodate the whole po- pulation, and the other left in a ruinous state. The church of Bunkle was rebuilt in 1820. It is a plain and neat edifice, built on the old site, at the southern base of the Lammermoor hills, ca- pable of containing 400 sitters, which is more than the half of the entire population. The manse, which is close by the church, was built at three different periods ; the oldest part in 1718. It ^-as enlarged in 1764, — and a farther addition was made in 1801. The situation is somewhat remote, there being no other habitation in the immediate vicinity. The glebe consists of forty-four acres, all arable, worth about L. 40 per annum. The stipend since last augmentation in 1821 is sixteen chalders, half-meal half-barley, payable in money, at the rate of the fiars prices of the county. In this is included nearly L. 28 of money, not affected by the price of grain, one of the heritors having surrendered his teinds. On an average of the last seven years, the stipend has been L. 240 Ster- ling, besides L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. Hie living is in the gift of Lord Douglas. There is no dissenting place of worship in this parish, but a number of families, amounting to about 50, have been for many years in the practice of going to dissenting houses in Dunse. The church is well attended, as by far the greater number, and nearly all the respectable families, come to the parish church. The ave- rage number of communicants is about 230. Education. — The parochial school-house, which is the only one in the parish, was lately rebuilt. It is neat and commodious enough, and has a good garden attached to it. The usual branches are taught ; the salary is the maximum ; and the school fees are moderate. Tlie schoolmaster's income, including the emoluments arising from the offices of session-clerk and heritor's clerk, may amount to upwards of L. 70 per annum. Poor and Parochial Funds.— The collections in the church are inconsiderable, scarcely adequate to pay the church-officers, viz. the precentor, session-clerk, and beadle, &c. Thev mav amount 3 BUNKLE AND PRESTON. 123 to L. 6 per annum ; but there is a regular half-yearly assessment for the poor, amounting to upwards of L. 70 yearly ; one half-paid by the heritors, the other by the tenants. The average number of poor on the roll is about 18 or 20 persons ; the allowance to each may average Is. 6d. per week. There is no other regular fund for support of the poor. Miscellaneous Observations. It is to be regretted that little attention, till very lately, has been paid to the planting of wood in the northerly and more hilly parts of the parish. Plantations, however small, are high- ly ornamental to a country, tend to improve the climate, and af- ford shelter to the crops as well as to the cattle ; and though at first attended with expense, yet they ultimately become profitable, especially on waste lands, which are fit for nothing else. Of this, the following fact is sufficient evidence. About sixty years ago, upwards of 100 acres of waste and marshy ground, on the estate of Lord Douglas, were planted chiefly with Scotch firs, inter- spersed with larch and spruce trees. Part of this plantation has been cut down, and the produce has been found to yield a great- er profit, after deducting the expenses of planting and making fences around it, than the best land of the same extent Acting on the same enlightened views, his Lordship has, for some years past, . planted to a considerable extent on his property on the Lammermoor, which, at no distant period, will prove highly ber> neficial to his estate, and ornamental to the neighbourhood. July 1834. PARISH OF CHIRNSIDE. PRESBYTERY OF CHIRNSIDE, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TIVIOTDALE. THE REV. THOMAS LOGAN, M.D. MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Boundaries^ Extent^ Sfc. — The boundaries of this parish are now well defined. At the time of the last Statistical Account, written by Dr Anderson, the river Whitadder, which runs on the south and south-west sides of the parish, was but an uncer- tain boundary, as its course was often changed by floods ; but now its course, by means of embankments, is kept uniform and regular. The boundaries are now also distinctly marked by means of a deep ditch that runs between the conterminous lands of this parish and those of Bunkle and Coldingham. That river forms the boundary of the parish for an extent of about five miles. It is observed to be now subject to floods higher but of shorter duration than formerly, — in consequence, probably, of the draining of the lands in its course, especially of the nume- rous sheep-drains which have lately been cut on the Lammermoor- hills. The temperature of the atmosphere is generally mild, the soil dry, and the climate healthy. IL — Civil History. Eminent Men. — Under this head we have to mention the cele- brated historian and philosopher David Hume, who was brought up in this parish from his infancy ; and the Rev. Henry Erskine, who was ordained minister soon after the Revolutioii, succeeding Lawtie, the Episcopal clergyman, and who was the father of Ebe- nezer and Ralph Erskines, the leaders of the Secession. To the memory of that Henry Erskine, a monument has lately been erect- ed in the churchyard at a considerable expense. Land'^toners. — The chief land-owners are Sir John Hall, Bart. of Dunglass, the patron; William Hay, Esq. of Dunse Castle; David Hume, Esq. of Ninewells, one of the Barons of the Court of Ex- ' This account has been drawn up by Mr Charles Hcrior. CHIRNSIDR. 125 chequer in Scotland; Thomas Begby, Esq. of Mains; and Sir William Grant Keir, of Blackburn. Parochial B^guters.-T)^^ registers of this parish commence in the year 1660. They are on the whole regularly kept, — though the Dissenters do not always record the births of their children. Modem Buildings, — A mansion-house is proposed to be built at Mains next season. It may be mentioned, that smce the last Statistical Account eleven farm-houses have been built, all two sto- ries high, and all, except two, covered with slate. A correspond- ing improvement has taken place in the farm-offices. III. — Population. Th« amount of th« population in I80I was, - 1147 1811, . - . 1239 1821, - - 1189 1831, . - 1248 In 1834 the number has fallen to 1169, whereof 462 reside in the country, and 707 in villages. 1. Number of fiimilies in the parish, .... 293 of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 78 chiefly employed in tnde, manulactures, or handicraft, 70 2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 41 of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, * 71 3. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - - 420 betwixt 15 and 30, - - 314 30 and 50, - 250 50 and 70, - - 145 upwards of 70, ... 40 It may not be uninteresting to add the following instances of longevity in the parish. Men. Number of years old. Women. Number of years old. - 92 . 1-89 90 1-80 89 1 . 89 88 1-77 85 1-73 89 1-77 83 1-76 The number of proprietors of land in the parish of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards is 8. The number of persons in different trades or professions is as fol- lows: merchants, 5 ; surgeons, 2; midwife, 1 ; millwrights, 2 masters, 3 journeymen, and 4 apprentices ; common wrights, 4 masters, 7 journeymen, and 3 apprentices; smiths, 8; weavers, 10. During the last three years, there l^ave been two illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. Affriculture and Rural Economy. — The number of English acres in the parish is computed at 5000 or rather more. There is no 12f> ' BERWICKSHIRE. waste land in the parish. The whole parish, indeed, may be said to be in a high state of cultivation. The number of acres-planted is about 371. All the plantations are in a very thriving state, — particularly those on the banks of the Whitadder at Ninewells. They are also well managed. For some years past, the periodical fellings at Whitehall have been considerable, — insomuch that a quantity of oaks of superior quality was cut down there four or five years ago, which must have brought about L. 800 Sterling. Prices of Timber, — The comparative prices of wood grown here during the late war, and at the present time, are as follows : Dur- ing the late war, for fir of a superior quality, per cubic foot, from 2s. 6d. to ds. ; oak, 4s. 6d. to 5s. ; ash and elm, 3s. ; — at present, fir, Is. ; oak, 2s. 6d. ; ash and elm. Is. 6d. Rent of Land. — It was matter of astonishment to the writer of the last Statistical Account, that the rents of land in this parish should have risen from 3s. to 12s., and from 5s. to L. 1 per acre. How much more astonishing to find that these rents have now risen to L. I, I6s., L. 2, L. 2, lOs., L.3, 15s. L.4, L. 4, 4s., and some- times even more per acre ! Of late years, the practice has been introduced of letting land upon a corn-rent, — that is, for a certain number of bushels of oats per acre, to be estimated at the average fiars of the five crops im- mediately preceding. This scheme, however, though apparently an equitable one for both parties, has its difficulties, from the fluc- tuations in prices, and in the quantities of produce in different years. To remedy this, the parties have agreed upon both a maximum rent, which shall never be surpassed, and a minimum, below which it must never fall. The rental of the parish is as follows : Of farm lands, ... Of houses, Ninewells and Whitehall, Of plantations at Whitehall, Other plantations, ... Of houses in Chirnsidc, L.8504 Rate of Wages. — Farm-servants, or hinds, are generally hired for one year, from Whitsunday to Whitsunday, and receive ten ))olls of oats, three of barley, and one of pease, — also their food in harvest, the keep of a cow, an allowance when they take the com to market, about 1200 or 1400 yards in length of a drill of twenty- eight inches wide for potatoes, three or four double-horse cart- L.7601 80 200 150 473 CHIRNSIDE. 127 loads of coals driven home, a pig kept by themselves, and a piece of land for a garden. The comparative rate of wages here during the late war and at present are as follows: During the war, a common labourer per day, 2s. 6d. ; wrights and masons, ds. ; shearers in harvest, 2s. 6d. or ds. with victuals. At present, — a common labourer per day, Is. 8d. ; wrights and masons. Is. 8d. without victuals; shearers in harvest, 2s. 2d. and their victuals. Breeds of Livestock. — The sheep are chiefly of the large Lei- cester kind, which, when well fed, weigh at two years old from 23 to 25 or 28 lbs. per quarter. The total number of sheep in the parish is generally about 120 scores; — but even these are not sufficient to consume the turnips that are grown in the parish, and sometimes considerable numbers are brought from different parts of the county, and even from Northumberland, for that pur- pose. The cattle are generally of the short-horned breed. Implements of Husbandry. — The ploughs generally used are Small's, mostly made of iron, with cast-metal heads and mould- boards. They cost generally L. 3 ; and their number in the pa- rish is 50, — all drawn by two horses. Husbandry. — One-half of the land is generally kept in tillage, — the other half in grass. The common rotation is, 1. oats after grass; 2. Turnips or fallow; 3. Wheat, barley, or oats, with grass seeds ; 4. Hay or pasture ; 5. Pasture. The conunon manure is farm-yard dung; but of late bone-dust has been used for turnips, — about two quarters of which are conunonly applied to an Eng- lish acre, and sown in drills with a machine. It costs about L. 1 per quarter, and is found highly beneficial on light soils. Draining has been practised to a great extent ; but there has been little or no opportunity for practising irrigation. Consider- able sums of money have lately been expended in embankments on the river Whitadder. The duration of leases is generally for nine- teen years. It may be remarked, that while at the time of the last Statisti- cal Account there were only two or three tenants who had changed their possessions for twenty years, — the case is now quite altered, — as there have been twelve or thirteen tenants who have left their possessions before the expiry of their leases. At the time of the last Statistical Account there were no thrash- ing-machines in the parish; there are now fourteen, and the bawvs. 12» BERWICKSHIRE. necessary for these machines are built in the most substantial man- ner. The mills which existed at that time have been greatly im- proved- There are five gardens in the parish, called sale gardens, well stocked with fruit trees in a good state of bearing. The posses- sions in the village, which are mostly held of Sir John Hall on leases of ten times three nineteen years, or 570 years, have all small gardens attached to them. Quarries, — There are several wrought quarries of freestone in the parish, — and it is supposed there are others that might be wrought if necessary. Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained) is as follows : Oftts, Tuniii>s Barley* Wheat, Grass* Grass hay, Other grass, Gardens, Potatoes Cows, L. 14,680 V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication, — There are in the parish about 6^ miles of turnpike road, — all in good repair : so also are the cross roads. An act of Parliament has lately been obtained for building a bridge over the Whitadder at the Bluestone Ford, in the southern part of the parish. Ecclesiastical State. — No part of the parish lies farther from the church than 2^ miles. It is at present in pretty good repair : pro- bably it was built several hundred years ago, — for in one part of the wall, which was evidently a later addition, there is a tablet dated 1572, with the inscription " helpe the pvr." When the body of the church was rebuilt, the western door, of Saxon architecture, with a small part of the wall belonging to the ancient fabric, was with good taste preserved, and the new wall built upon it There have been many complaints of the insufficiency of the accommo- dation to the persons belonging to the Establishment, The manse was built in 1757. It is small, but in good repair. The extent of the glebe is 8 English acres of excellent land, with half an acre more for the site of houses. 4 L.dOSl 2750 2780 1755 1467 1000 (» 427 200 480 690 CHIRNSIDE. 129 The stipend, as modified on 19th May 1830, is 17 chalders, half- meal, half barley, with L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. The church is attended by about 200 families ; and there are about 400 communicants. The number of families attending the chapels of Dissenters and Seceders is 74. Education, — There is one parochial and two unendowed schooln, — the first attended by about 70 scholars, the others by about 88. The parochial schoolmaster's salary is L. 34 : fees probably L. 30, and he has the legal accommodations, — ^besides 5 per cent on the poors' funds, for his trouble in collecting and disbursing thereof. He teaches, besides the ordinary branches, Latin, Greek, French, and practical mathematics. Library — A circulating library, consisting of upwards of 500 volumes, well chosen, was established in the parish about thirty years ago. Friendly Societies. — Of these there are two : one of which is without capital, — the money being collected when necessary. It was established in June 1808, and consists of 180 members. L. 6 are allowed for the funeral of a member, — and L. 3 for that of his wife. The other society was established in September 1817, and consists of about 60. The quarterly payment to it by each mem- ber is Is. 6d. ; and each member, when sick or superannuated, re- ceives a small stated allowance. It may be proper to add, that, a few years ago, another society was formed, which is now dissolved. It was called the Cow Society. Those persons who kept a cow entered into a mutual agreement, to contribute a small sum to. assist any member who might lose his cow by disease or accident, — that sum being always under the value of the cow lost It is proper to state, that the reason of this was to prevent carelessness or wilful injury to the cow. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of enrolled poor is 55 ; weekly payment to all, L. 5, 5s. ; amount of yearly assessment on heritors and tenants, L. 270 ; monthly cess of the parish, L. 68^ 18s. 4d. Scotch. There are no other funds applicable to the poor. Inns or Alehouses. — Of these there are five in the parish. iFtt^/.— The fuel used consists for the most part of coal from Northumberland, with which there is now a ready communication. July 1834. BERWICK. PARISH OF AYTON. FKKSBYTERY OF CHIRNSIDE, SYNOD OF MER8E AND TITIOTDALE. THE KEV. GEORGE TOUGH, MINISTER. 1. — Topography and Natural History. Name, Boundaries, Sfc. — The parish of Ayton, like that of Eye- mouth, obviously derives its name from the water of Eye, on whose banks the village of the same name is situated. In the ancient re- cords, it is usually written Eitun or FAton ; and it is said to be com- pounded of two Saxon words, Ei, a water or stream, and iun^ a villa or town. The parish is nearly four miles in length, and as many in breadth, and contains probably twelve or thirteen square miles. It is bounded on the north by Eyemouth and Colding- ham ; on the south by Foulden and Mordington ; on the west by Coldingham and Chirnside ; and on the east by the sea. In figure, it somewhat resembles the flat side of a battle axe without the handle, having the edge turned towards the south and east Topographical Appearances, — On the south there is a beautifully sloping range of high land, tastefully adorned with copses of plan- tation to the summit. At its highest elevation, it is 660 feet above the level of the sea. The highest point of the sea banks, known by the name of Blaiky's, is 350 feet, precipitous towards the sea, sloping gently towards the land, and irregularly down to the water's edge at Eyemouth. On the northern side of the parish the ground is lower and flatter than on the southern, but still of considerable elevation, and finely undulating in all directions. The whole line of coast for many miles both north and south is splendidly bold and rocky. Its extent within the parish is two miles, forming almost a continued precipice, with innumerable indentations. The stra- tification of the rocks is distinctly visible, and in all possible incli- nations, curvatures, and fantastic shapes, evidently thrown into the wildest confusion by some great convulsion of nature.' There are one or two caves which present themselves to the eye of the mari- ner, accessible only by sea; they were distinguished probably in for- mer times as smuggling concealments, but are now only a shelter for rooks, pigeons, and 5»ea-gidls above, and crabs and lobsters beneath. AYTON. 131 The parish line of coast is terminated on the south by a rocky bay accessible from the land by a steep ravine, at the bottom of which stands the romantic fishing village of Bummouth, and a remark* able rock called the Maiden Stone, isolated at high water. It has probably been separated from the precipice above by the under- mining influence of the sea. At the northern extremity of the pa- rish line of coast are two or three small islets, called the Harker rocks, over which the sea washes, and when impelled by strong easterly winds, ascends in beautiful sheets of foam to the height of seventy or a hundred feet« Hydrography. — There are two principal streams in this parish, the Eye and the Ale. The former, the largest of the two, takes its rise in the Lammermoors, and after flowing in a south-easterly direction for ten or twelve miles, turns nearly at right angles on entering the western side of the parish, traversing the parish in the line of the great central valley in a north-easterly direction, when, for another mile, it skirts the parish in the same direction, separating it from that of Eyemouth, and then falls into the sea. On entering the parish, its velocity is accelerated by the increasing declivity of the land towards the sea, just to such a degree as to convert it into a beautifully interesting stream during the remainder of its course. Its windings and sloping banks render the grounds on either side most desirable for country seats. The scenery of the valley through which it flows, especially when viewed from Millerton-hill on the west^ presents a magnificent picture, having Ayton House with all its fine plantations, the picturesque village of Ayton,. the manse, and the church, the beautiful new mansion-house and grounds of 'Peelwalls, all in sight, and various mansions and farm-houses in the distant horizon, with the hill country on the right, and the mighty ocean, forming the back scene towards the north-east But that view is now seldom enjoyed by the traveller, the western ap-< proach to Ayton over Millerton-hill having been changed some years ago. The quantity of water flowing in the Eye may be estimated by its being able to drive common flour-mills, and even a paper-mill, except in very dry seasons, when there is a scarcity for these pur- poses. The other stream, the Ale, has its rise in Coldingham pa- rish, takes also a south-easterly course for two or three miles, and at the northern extremity of the parish, continuing in the same direc-» tion, it forms the north-eastern boundary, which separates Ayton pa-i rish from those of Coldingham and Eyemouth to the extent <\C \.^^ miles, and then it falls into the Eye.ikt a >i^t^ xocwKCiXStf:* «!^v^ ^^«- AYTON. 133 any important use. There are immense quantities of coarse gravel, boulders and rolled blocks under the soil, in the neighbourhood of the Eye, evidently rounded during ages of exposure to the ac- tion of water, and deposited by the strength of the same element. The soil in general is good, and not much, if at all, inferior to any in the county ; light and gravelly in the northern, and more loamy in the southern parts of the parish. It does not appear to have been shifted by any process of nature, except by the watery depo- sits above-mentioned. Zoology. — All sorts of white fish, equal to any on the eastern coast, which are the best in the kingdom, are caught by the Burn* mouth fishermen in great abundance; and occasionsdly red fish. Cod, ling, and herrings are here cured for distant markets. Lob- sters also are occasionally sent hence to London ; and lately an attempt has been made to convert even periwinkles, of which there are immense quantities among the rotJcs, into an article of trade. They are in some request in London with the fish- mongers, for making fish sauce. Botany. — The only rare plants discovered in this parish are, 1^, the Veronica JUiformiSi (discovered by Dr Johnston, author of the Berwick Flora,) an engraving of which forms the frontispiece of his work. He found it about four years since, upon the farm of Wfaiterig, the second known station for it in Britain. 2dy the SciHa vemUi discovered by the Rev. A. Baird of Cockbumspath. It was growing upon the sea banks at Gunsgreen. Before the dis- covery of this habitat^ it was believed to be a native exclusively of the western shores of the island. Sd^ the Astragalus glycyphyllos^ discovered for the first time in Berwickshire, by Mr A. Carr, sur- geon, Ayton, in the dean above Burnmouth. This dean is said to be one of the most interesting botanical resorts in the neigh- bourhood. The Hyoscyamus niger^ or henbane, grows wild on the sea coast, as discovered on the lands of Fairneyside, by Mr £. Colville, surgeon, Ayton. All sorts of hard and soft wood grow well in this parish. Perhaps the Scotch and spruce firs thrive best. There are some very fine old hard-wood trees, of various kinds, surrounding Ayton House. n. — Civil History. Antiquities. — There is no direct history, ancient or modern, of this parish, but from old charters of Coldingham priory and other sources, a few gleanings have been collected. From these it ap- pears that Ayton was formerly a dependency on the monastery oC ^oldingham. When a colony of Beti^dAcXAxv^ tcvq»\^% ^«NJ\^^ ^^. 134 BERWICKSHIRE. Coldingham, between the years 1098 and 1 107, under the auspices of King Edgar, that monarch, with many other endowments, bestow- ed upon them two places called Eytun (Eytun et aliam Eytun) be- ing the village of Ayton, and another small dependency on the oppo- site side of the river, called Nether Ayton, — which were confirmed to them by the charters of his successors. Ayton being thus bestowed on the Coldingham monks, it is probable that its church (whose old walls are still extant^ built of square hewn-stones, not closely joint- ed, and evidently very ancient) was founded about this time. Till the Reformation, it seems to have been a cell or chapel of the neighbouring priory. After the arrangement of the parishes in Scot- land, the present parishes of Ayton and Coldingham formed the then parish of Coldingham. At the Reformation, Ayton was dis- joined from Coldingham, and united with Lamberton on the south- east ; but not long after, it became, as it now is, a parish per se. Independently of all written records, the first object of histo- rical antiquity or interest which presents itself to the eye is the round camp of Drumaw or Habchester, on the highest point of the southern extremity, now half-phughed down, and reduced to the form of a semicircle. Some modem antiquarians have la- mented that so perfect a. specimen of the ancient British encamp- ments has not escaped the mutilation of the plough, especially as no ancient relics have been discovered by the process of ploughing it down, to compensate for the deed. Enough, however, remains to mark the judgment and the industry with which such places had been selected and constructed, both with a view to observation and defence. Situated on the highest elevation of a lofty emi- nence, and commanding a most extensive prospect both of sea and land, no spot could be better chosen for watching the n(iovements of an enemy; and formed of two concentric mounds with adeep trench between, and another outside, it was capable of making a vigorous resistance. A3 it stands on the northern side of the hill, it is probable that it was constructed by South Britons, to repel the assaults of their northern neighbours; at all events, it was not constructed by the Ro- mans, as has been erroneously conjectured, for its form is circular. Near this spot must have passed the Roman road, which extended from the wall of Severus (which crosses the country at Newcastle) to the Roman camp in the vicinity of St Abb's Head, where it terminated. This road also must have passed close to the rising ground, on which has since stood, and since disappeared, the castle of Ayton, and which is now the site of Ayton House. Pos- atibly the situations both ot i\ic c»m\v ^wdi ol Vltv^ ^»&n\r ^^\% ^Wn- AYTON. 135 sen, in part at least, on account of their contiguity to the Roman road, for long subsequently to the retiring of the Romans it would be the best, if not the only great, thoroughfare of the country. Cairnchester, another camp hard by, of which there are now no vestiges but the name, and Chesterdale and Chesterbank, all in- dicate that this hill had been often selected for encampments on account of the fitness of its locality for that purpose. * These, however, in process of time, gave place to castles, of which there are many remains in all the border counties, and which proved stronger and more permanent places of defence than camps. Castle of Ay ton, — Among these the Castle of Ay ton seems to have held a distinguished place, as we learn from a siege to which it was subjected by Surry, the renowned general of Henry VII. in 1497, when, as Ford in his dramatic chronicle sayeth or singeth, " This strongest of their forts Old Ayton Castle (was) yielded aiid demolished.** It seems to have been founded long after the conquest, by a Nor- man of the name of De Vescie, who having formed a settlement on the banks of the Eye, erected a castle and collected his vassals around him. The village of Ayton sprang up under the castle walls for mutual protection. The family name of De Vescie was af- terwards changed into that of De Eitun : and the Aytons of Inch- darney in Fife are supposed to be the lineal descendants of this ancient family. Estate of Ayton. — About the commencemient of the fifteenth cen- tury, the estate of Ayton fell into the possession of the Homes, who about that period had acquired great sway in Berwickshire. In 1715 it passed from the Homes, when the sentence of forfeiture was in- curred by James Home, the last proprietor of that name, who had abetted the Earl of Mar in his Vkin attempt to reinstate the Stew- arts upon the throne. After remaining a few years vested in the * It may be proper to mention here an occurrence which happened in regard to the signal station erected during the late war, close by the ancient camp of Habches- ter ; which eventually proved an experiment on the spirit of the country. The man at the station mistaking some whins blazing in the west for an inland alarm of the French landing, quickly lighted hw beacon fire. This being observed from the manse windows by the rormer incumbent, was instantly communicated to the villa- gers, many of whom being volunteers were at their posts in a moment, and ready to march to repel the foe. The alarm spread in all directions. Both horse and foot volunteers, from all parts of Berwickshire, were immediately on their route to the place of rendezvous at Dunbar. The news soon reached EcUnburgh, and both town and country were all in conunotion. Some serious and distressing alarms were un- avoidably the consequence, and might have been aggravated tenfold, had not the of- ficer commanding the first of the shore stations at St Abb*s Head, prudently ab« stained from repeating the signal, although he saw it distinctly. But being a thorou^K bred navy officer, he understood his duty better ihaxv \» ^«^«x\, %. >M^^'e» \stv»ft!C». from the line of his instructions, whlc\\ wci« lo cotutowxvvssx^ Vv^j s\^^ a«^'^ '«\!caN. be observed at sea. 136 BERWICKSHIRE. crown, this estate was purchased by an ancestor of the present proprietor. Since that time it has undergone successive improve- ments and embellishments, by large plantations and otherwise, more congenial with peaceful times, and all of them done with much judgment and taste. The castle or mansion-house, stand- ing on a beautiful acclivity, near the great London road, with its fine grounds full in view, is the first object of attraction and admi- ration in Scotland, to all strangers passing to the north. But alas, for the vicissitude of human affairs ! Although neither turmoil nor feuds disturb the peaceful habitations of this once agitated district, a devouring conflagration has within these few weeks, and in the short period of as many hours, reduced that delightful mansion to a heap of ruins. Providentially, the whole family, assembled from different quarters, as if to witness the sad catastrophe, and to render mutual aid, although scarcely in time warned of their dan- ger, and some of them in the greatest jeopardy, escaped unhurt. They must remove for a season. May they soon return to retrieve the damage, and to enliven the scene, which is now desolate in the extreme. Prenderguest and Whiterig. — The next place in this parish respect- ing which there are any historical fragments is Prenderguest. In the reign of David I., the half of this estate belonged to Swain, priest of the ancient parish of Fishwick, on the banks of the Tweed ; and there is a document extant whereby this individual renounced his claim to it in favour of the monks of Coldingham. Many of the Cold- ingham charters are witnessed by members of an Anglo-Norman fa- mily, who once possessed Prenderguest, and seem to have imparted their name to the land. From the records of Lindisfem monastery, we learn that, in 1326, William de Prenderguest, possessing somewhat of the qualifications of a border feiver^ rendered himself notorious by plundering the brewhouse and bakehouse of that religious esta- blishment, — this being the only instance on record of its having suf- fered skaith at the hands of a freebooter. About the middle of the fifteenth century it passed to the Homes. The mansion-house of Prenderguest is an excellent modem building. It has been occu- pied by the present tenant for about thirty years. The farm-house was taken down many years ago, and has never been rebuilt. — The same is the case with the mansion and farm-house of Whiterig, an adjoining property of rather smaller extent than the former. The latter is now in the possession of a gentleman who lately repre- sented the city of Edinburgh in Parliament. PeelwalU and Bastkridge. — Dutvug the fifteenth and sixteenth AYTON. 137 centuries, the estates of Peelwalls and Bastleridge, to the eastward of the former twQ, had each a distinct proprietor (as they have still) named Home ; and there is a deed extant in which Home of Bastle- ridge is styled bailiff of the barony of Peelwalls. The latter place, within the last three or four years, has undergone an extraordinary * metamorphosis under the judicious management of a new proprie- tor. An elegant new mansion-house has been built of beautiful hewn stone, brought from the far-famed quarries of Killala, in Fife- shire ; and the grounds and public roads have been so completely changed and improved, that any one who has not seen the place during that short period would be utterly at a loss to recognize it as the same. It may here be mentioned, to the honour of a for- mer proprietor of this place, whose name might otherwise never have come down to our day, that there is the following inscription on one of the silver communion cups. " This cup, originally given by Magdalen Rule of Peelwalls, to the church of Ayton in 1677, was renewed and enlarged in 1780." Flemingtons, — There are three places, all contiguous to each other, of the name of Flemington, — concerning which there is a tra- dition or conjecture that a colony of Flemish merchants had esta- blished themselves here, and imparted their name to their new settlement As it is well known that the wool marts of these enterprising people went by the name of Redhalls, the existence of a place of that name in the immediate neighbourhood is corro- borative of the tradition. One of these Redhalls likewise stood at the bottom of the street called Woolmarket, in Berwick. From the circumstance of the three Flemingtons lying on the side of the great hilly range on the south border of the parish, it is likewise probable that this tract was chosen by them on account of its being well adapted to sheep pasture, although now it is under tillage to the very top of the hill. There is still an extensive sheep walk on the other side of the hill, called Lamberton Moor, which be- longs to the neighbouring parish of Mordington. The Flemings had probably chosen the north side of the hill, on account of its vicinity to the port of Eyemouth. Gunsgreen* — Gunsgreen House, close by the sea side and har- bour of Eyemouth, is an excellent mansion. The principal pecu- liarity of this house is, that it was built by a wealthy smuggler. For the purpose of carrying on his contraband traffic, he construct- ed it with many concealments within the house, and with others attached to it. These, it is supposed, have not all bee^^5ys.^<5H««^^ to this day ; and if stored witYv va\\xa\A^ f:oTMKiQS\<\«5»^^«^^'^^^"^ "^^"^ 138 BERWICKSHIRE. accident, have as yet been left untouched, they may enrich some future possessor with unexpected treasure hid either in the house or in the field. To these there is now no clew. It is only a few years since the carriage-horses of the present proprietor were nearly swallowed up while ploughing in a field near the house, — owing to the roof of an unknown but empty concealment giving way. Of course not much treasure was found there. * Netherhyres, — Immediately adjoining to Gunsgreen is the estate of Netherhyres, which, after having been in the possession of one family and their descendants for more than two hundred years, has lately been purchased by a gentleman well known to the world for his valuable and extraordinary manufacture and construction of chain- cables and suspension-bridges. By the latter, he has efiected a se- cond union of the sister kingdoms, in the beautiful chain-bridge over the Tweed at Paxton, which, it is hoped, will soon lead to the erection of others in this county, as it has already done in different parts of the kingdom. Of this most necessary means of communication, there is as yet a great deficiency in Berwickshire, over the larger streams. This enterprising gentleman has already commenced improvements on his newly-acquired property, where he intends to erect a splen- did mansion-house, with an approach to it from the north side, by means of a suspension-bridge over the Eye; -f- and to form other em- bellishments, all which will furnish employment to many industrious individuals, and will contribute to ornament a parish already dis- tinguished for its many beauties. Faimeyside^ Greystonelees^ and CJiesterbank. — The next place to be noticed is Fairneyside, a good property extending along the sea-coast, with an ancient mansion and farm-house, both, however, scarcely habitable. The former has been occupied by the farming tenants for many years, and the latter by the farm-servants. Here also smuggling concealments have lately been discovered, — indicat- ing a twofold trafiic carried on by a former tenant, the history of which is sufiiciently recent to be pretty well known to the parishioners even at this day. — Adjoining to the foregoing property is that of Greyston- * It was in allusion to this mansion-house that a member once obsenred,in the Se- nate, that smuggling was carried on to such an alarming extent on the east coast of Scotland, that one man had been enabled, from its gains, to erect a splendid palace. It now belongs to a very different proprietor, lately the venerable pastor of this parish, author of the former Statistical Account, and father-in-law of the present incumbent. f The operations are even now far in advance, and have already produced a magi- cal transformation on the place. The particular form of suspension bridge now erect- ing is Captain Brown's own invention, and which he calls a Tension Bridgr, beihg supported by, instead of being suspended from, the chaii^s. This, in the opinion of some, 18 equally pleasing as the other form ; while it saves the necessity and expense of havmg the fulcra or points of suspension raised alofl in the air. 3 AYTON. 139 lees. Here there is neither mansion nor farm-house, but a pretty good set of offices, and a thrashing -mill driven by water. Here, too, there is reason to suspect that smuggling had been carried on in former times. There is on this property a place called Catch-ar penny, well adapted for that purpose by its retired situation on the edge of the adjoining moor, and immediately above Burnmouth. It was probably so named or nick-named for its receiving a share of the booty. * Ascending the hill from Greystonlees, we come next to Chester- bank, a smaller property, with a good, but rather ancient farm-house and with offices. The view from this spot is very grand, present- ing another aspect of the valley beneath, which was formerly de- scribed; and in the distance, the Lammermoor hills, with St Abb's rearing its venerable head above the ocean. Besides the camps already noticed, there appears to have been another on the high grounds above Chesterbank; and one is stated in the former Statistical Account to have stood on the north side of the parish. Spear heads are said to have been dug up at Red- hall and other parts of the parish ; and not many years ago there was turned up during the operation of trench-ploughing, on the farm of Prenderguest, a small millstone, supposed to have belong- ed to the hand-mills of the Romans. — A curious stone with an in- scription was also discovered at Gunsgreen, and a drawing thereof was sent to the Edinburgh Antiquarian Society, but no explanation has yet been obtained. Parochial Registers. — The history of the parochial registers is very imperfect. Those of births and baptisms, the only ones for- merly kept, go no farther back than 1743, and even after that pe- riod they seem not to have been regularly kept until about 1770. They are by no means voluminous even at this day. No other register has been regularly kept. HI. — Population. In 1741, the population did not exceed 640. This number was divided equally between the village of Ayton and the landward part of the parish. In 1821, it had arisen to 1481 ; and in 1831, when the last census was taken, to 1680, viz. 663 in the village, and 1017 in the rest of the parish. It is believed that the yearly ave- rage of births bears the usual proportion to the above numbers : but it cannot be easily or precisely ascertained from documents, * There wa.s a common Raying at Eyemouth, when any strange sail wax seen in the oflfing at night, and disappcired, that ** she had gone round to CatcK-a ^«g»xc).*^ L. 16600 8250 67A0 750 100 160 1400 AYTON. 141 9000 English acres of all kinds of grain at L. 6) 10s. per acre, 1500 potatoes and turnips at ditto, ... 1500 hay at L. 4, 10s. .... 200 permanent pasture atL.d,]58. Gardens and orchards, ..... Annual thinning and felling of wood, ... Fisheries, ..... L. 33800 Manufactures. — There are four grain mills in the parish, as for- merly noticed, in which wheaten flour, oat-meal, barley and pease meal, and pearl barley, are manufactured. Of the latter article particularly, a considerable quantity is prepared for the London market There are also in use here on every farm thrashing-mills driven by horses, wind, water, or steam. One farmer has a bone- mill, where 160 tons of bones, chiefly brought from Hambuigh, are ground yearly, and after providing himself with what bone-dust he ^requires, he supplies his neighbours with the surplus, to the amount of L. 700 or L. 800 worth per annum. Paper- Mill. — There is here a paper-mill, lately much improved by the introduction of the new machinery, by which the operations are wonderfully facilitated, and the number of hands formerly em- ployed, greatly reduced. The following statement by the proprietor will give an idea of the magnitude and value, &c. of this establish- ment. ^^ The sorts of paper chiefly manufactured at Millbank paper-mill are pasteboards and coloured papers. Eight years ago a machine was erected by which paper is made into webs, and after- wards cut into such sizes as are wanted. And recently, a new plan has been adopted for drying it, by applying steam to the inside of large cylinders, round which the paper passes and comes ofi* quite dry. The bleachfield at Ayton is given up, and is now employed in bleaching rags, and reducing them into (what is called in the trade) half stuffs and from thence taken down to the mill at Millbank, to be prepared and made into paper. The wages paid to the work people amount to nearly L. 800 a-year, and the excise duties to upwards of L. 3000 a-year." Distillery. — ^A distillery was erected ten or twelve years ago at Gunsgreen, upon the site and ruins of a former distillery, which had been discontinued for many years. It is now in active operation, and the following particulars respecting it have been communicated by one of the partners : " Gunsgreen distillery is capable of making 1500 gallons of aquSi weekly, which is mostly all sold in London. In the spring of 1832, when potatoes were nearly unsaleable, and sel- ling so low as Is. 3d. per cwt, the distillers here, having a large quantity on hand, were induced to enter thevt ^cstV^ ^^t ^^5^^^iss>5^ AVTON. 143 get rid of the old houses at the upper end of the village, which trenched close upon the mansion-house. It has also led to the formation of an almost entirely new village, distinguished alike by the superiority, regularity, and general cleanliness of the new dwell- ings. Nor is it unlikely that it will eventually lead to the reduction of the number of paupers, many of whom occupied the old hovels which have been recently pulled down, and some of whom still linger in those which remain. A few handsome villas have lately been, and more are likely to be, erected in the extremities of the village. These already seem to have the effect of drawing respectable in- habitants to the place. As a useful substitute for the fairs, a monthly cattle market has very recently been established in Ayton, and is likely to succeed remarkably well, — this being a good central situation for the purpose. Means of Communication. — The means of communication are here ample. There is a post-office in Ayton, and a daily post. The London road, always in the highest state of repair, passes through the village, the centre of the parish ; and another road, not inferior in quality, leads from Eyemouth to Ayton, and into the interior of the county, — each bisecting the parish nearly at right angles to the other. On the former road two London coaches ply daily, viz. the Mail and the Union, each with four horses, — and another with two horses, also daily, betwixt Edinburgh and Newcastle. There are four good stone bridges, one within, and the other three leading into the parish. The first is at Ayton over the Eye, upon the London road, handsomely ornamented with embrasures. The next is near Eyemouth, over the same stream. The other two cross the Ale Water, one near the junction of the two streams, leading to Eyemouth, and the other on the road leading from Ayton to Cold- ingham. A ruinous bridge over the Eye, (which formed part of a very old road to London, and in the use of which as a kirk road, the parishioners every Sabbath day ran the risk of losing their lives,) fell down a few years ago, fortunately without doing hurt. A boat-harbour has been erected lately at Burnmouth, strong enough to resist the heavy seas of the German ocean. The ex- pense of erection was L. 1600, three-fourths of which were supplied by the commissioners for the fisheries, and the other fourth was contributed by the fishermen and others. It seems to afford good security to the boats ; but the fishermen are of opinion, that an additional land pier also is necessary to complete the ^curity, by contracting the mouth of the harbour, and breaking the swell of the sea* AYTON. 145 middle passage, but seldom required. Tlie pews are the property of the heritors for themselves, their tenants, and servants. A few seats were given by the heritors to the kirk-session, to be let for the benefit of the poor ; but for these little or no rent is received. The feuars and others who have no legal accommodation would, no doubt, obtain liberty to erect a gallery for themselves in the west end of the church, but they have hitherto preferred being in- debted to the indulgence of such seat-holders as have spare room, or they occupy the seats of such tenants and farm-servants as at- tend the meeting-houses. The manse was rebuilt nearly forty years ago, and is agree** ably situated on the banks of the Eye. It has since at intervals undergone a few repairs, by the last of which, further accommo- dation has been secured, by dividing the attic story into apart- ments, which had been left unfinished at the time of building. Good new offices were lately erected of sufficient extent for the present incumbent, who has no farming operations. They would have been further enlaiged if required. The garden and grounds were laid out with great taste by the former incumbent, and'water has been brought into the house by the present The glebe contains 1 1^ acres, and has been let, till lately, at a yearly rent of L. 38. — The stipend consists of sixteen chalders, half meal and half barley, convertible at the fiars prices of the county, which, as a matter of equity, ought. to be struck twice in the year, instead of once. On an average of the last seven years it has amounted to L. 241, 4s. lO/^d. There are also L. 10 for communion elements, and a small fish tithe ; the latter is ill paid, owing to the alleged poverty of the fishermen, who are otherwise an unusually respectable body of men, partly belonging to the Es- tablished church and partly Dissenters, and both in their dress and domestic equipments, betraying no symptoms of poverty. The dissenting chapels were formerly Burgher and Antiburgher, but are now in the New Associate communion. Their ministers' stipends arise from the seat rents. Neither of them are said to exceed L. 100. The ministers have also a free house and garden. The niunber of families attending the Established church is 180; of families in the parish attending the chapels of Dissenters and Seceders, 145. The average number of communicants in the Es- tablished church is 360. The yearly average of the ordinary church collections is upwards of L. 20. The average of occasional church collections for religious purposes is between L. 3 and L.4, perhaps once or twice in the year. BERWICK. K 146 BERWICKSHIRE. There is a small auxiliary to the county Bible Society in this parish, consisting of individuals belonging to the Established church and Dissenters. The average of their yearly contributions is about L.6 or L.7. Educatioru — There is one parish school, — the teacher of which has the maximum allowance, and an excellent dwelling-house and garden. There are likewise five private schools, depending on school fees, and one supported by an allowance from the lady of the chief landed proprietor. The branches generally taught are Eng- lish, reading, writing, and arithmetic. But some in the parish school are taught the higher branches, as Latin, French, geography, &c. Every branch in the parish school is well taught, as indicated by the recent enlargement of the school-room, and a great accession to the number of scholars, rendering it needful to have an assistant There are a few boarders residing in the schoolmaster's house, and a likelihood of more, when the superior qualifications of the teacher, the fitness of the house, and the healthiness of the situation are bet- ter known. The school fees are much on a par with those of other parishes, varjing according to the nature of the branches taught. On an average of the last three years they amount to L. 84 a-year. The teacher has also L. 30 a-year as clerk to the heritors and session. In the private schools, the fees are generally somewhat lower than in the parochial. There are very few in the parish, either old or young, who cannot read and write; and as the children are kept pretty regularly at school, and the fees, with few exceptions, readily paid, it may be inferred that the people in general are alive to the benefits of education. Literature. — There are two small subscription libraries in Ay- ton, which commenced within these ten or twelve years. One consists of 500 volumes, which, although suited to general read- ers, is not very extensively resorted to, but would be more so, if it had not excluded religious books. The other consists of more than 300 volumes, and is calculated to supply the defect of the former, being better adapted to the entertainment and instruction of the labouring classes and rising generation. It was founded somewhat later than the former, by a benevolent gentleman in the neighbourhood, and assisted by the donations of others: it is thus more accessible to the poor, and although intended as an iti- nerating library with others founded in neighbouring parishes by the same gentleman, no interchange of books has as yet taken place amongst them. Friendly Society, §y.— There is a friendly society in Ay ton. AYTON. 147 supported chiefly by the older people, but not very flourishing, as the younger generation are losing the spirit of independence, be- coming less saving in their habits, and relying more on parochial aid for supplying the wants of old age. — There is also a tempe- rance society lately established here, consisting almost exclusively of people who were previously sober in their habits. There is no evidence as yet of its having had the effect of converting a single drunkard. But it must not be denied, that it may have given a further improvement to the sober habits of the former class ; and possibly, it may have prevented some of them from acquiring con- trary habits. — A savings' bank was established some years ago in Eyemouth, of which it was expected that many in the neighbour- ing parishes would have availed themselves ; but the same cause has prevented the success of this establishment, which has already been assigned for the falling off of the friendly society. — There is no Dispensary here, but the poor receive medical advice at home, at the expense of the parish. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of persons receiving parochial aid is between 50 and 60. The average weekly al- lowance to each is 2s. 6d. The parish, including heritors and their tenants, is regularly assessed for the support of the poor. The average amount of yearly assessments is L. 400. The heritors have long allowed the whole of the church collections, together with the money arising from the use of the mortcloth, and from proclama- tions of marriage, to be laid out by the kirk-session in giving tem- porary aid to poor not upon the roll, and in paying a small fee to the clerks and officers of synod, presbytery, and kirk-session. If any money remains at the end of the year, it is laid out in coals to the poor, generally after new year; and sometimes, when there is a deficit for this latter purpose, an extraordinary col- lection is appointed in the church to make it up. The farmers and others are occasionally so kind as to drive the coals. There is no mortified or endowed money in this parish for the benefit of the poor ; but occasionally small donations have been given or be- queathed for distribution. This parish labours under a singular disadvantage, owing to the village of Ayton being the first town in Scotland on the great Lon- don road. Crowds of poor families and individuals, originally belong- ing to Scotland, havingacquired no parish settlement in Eng1and,are daily sent down through the English parishes, in cartloads, many of them unable to walk, and thrown into Ayton, as though it were the limit of their destination. When they happen to W^^T^^g^Sa^ 148 BERWICKSHIRE. passes to any of the eastern counties of Scotland, they are moved forward at the expense of this county. But when, as often hap- pens, either from carelessness, or the intentional mistake of people interested in transporting them, they are sent down by the east instead of the west road, this county refuses to be at any expense in their further conveyance. So, from pure humanity and dire ne- cessity, the parish of Ayton must remove the most helpless of them, else they might lie and die in our streets. Besides these^ there is now a vast number of travelling poor, a great proportion of whom are Irish, passing north and south daily and hourly on this road, who beset the manse and schoolmaster's house sometimes in for- midable bands, conceiving they have a legal claim for aid by the way. Many of these are evidently labouring under disease, sickness, and want, — requiring both relief and medical assist- iince. Such persons occasionally die here, and are buried at the expense of the parish, and sometimes leave to it as a legacy a destitute orphan, whose proper parish cannot be found. There ought to be a joint fund among all the parishes of each county, more especially of this border county, where the evil is greatest, to defray such expenses, and not to suffer the burden to lie upon those pa- rishes whose particular locality exposes them to such a hardship^ This multitude of travelling poor indicates the depressed state of the country at large, and it need scarcely be asked, " whether there is any disposition among the poor to refrain from seeking parochial relief, and whether they consider it degrading." In this neigh- bourhood, as well as in most other parts of the low country at least, the pride of independence has become almost extinct Lock-up^house^ Sfc. — Some years ago a lock-up-house was built in the village, which is occasionally occupied for a night by unruly vagrants and, others. They are generally dismissed in the morn- ing. But there would be fewer calls for this accommodation if there were fewer accommodations of a different description for the thoughtless and intemperate. In this parish there are no less than nine public houses, whereas at most, one or two respectable inns would be quite sufficient for all the purposes of travelling or business. The combined effects of so many facilities for drinldng are anything but favourable to the morals of the people. Fuel — Coals are supplied to this parish in abundance both by sea and land. Forth and Newcastle coals come in at Eyemouth, and are sold out of the ship at 10s. and 12s. per ton, and may be carted to Ayton for a couple of shillings more. They may also be brought by land from the other side of the Tweed at nearly the AYTON. 149 same price. There was a prospect renewed lately of coals being wrought along the coast, about a few miles to the south-east of this, but the stratum not being found of sufficient thickness to encourage the erection of machinery, the project has again, for the present, been abandoned. About eight miles northward peats may be pro- cured, but they are here in very little demand. Miscellaneous Observations. The great depression in the price of agricultural produce has, of late years, materially retarded improvements, which the landlord and tenants have shewn a laudable ambition to promote, if the times afforded encouragement. Some years ago the chief proprietor invited a few individuals, with their families, to settle on a moorish land belonging to him, about eight miles to the north, called Ayton com- mon, said to be a part of this parish, although surrounded by that of Coldingham. With a view to improve the land, he gave them a grant of it for a very small acknowledgment But it does not appear as yet to have been turned to any very good account The principal im- provements in the parish consist in the alteration of the London road, to avoid the long ascents at Ayton-hill on the south, and at Pease Bridge on the north ; and the consequent new-modelling of the village of Ayton ; — the alteration of the road leading from Eye- mouth to the interior of the country by the south of Ayton, to avoid the steep ascent at Millerton-hill, — and the alteration of another road in the parish leading from Berwick to Eyemouth, by which the great descent at Blaikies has been avoided. It was at one time in agitation to extend this latter road along the coast, as forming a better line for the London road, and less liable to ob- structions from snow, than one more inland. — A moral improve- ment has been wrought by the complete suppression of foreign smuggling, through the establishment of the Preventive Service along the coast There is, however, a system of smuggling more de- moralizing, if not also more hurtful to the revenue, still carried on, all along the English border, in which Ayton has borne a share, — namely, the illicit traffic in Scotch whisky. This traffic, on ac- count of the high duty paid for Scotch whisky in England, holds out a strong temptation to carry it over the borders at all points, and by all sorts of artful conveyances, — a practice which has not hitherto been prevented by all the vigilance of the excise. — Per- haps the only and the most equitable way to put an effectual stop to it, is to equalize the duties on both sides of the Tweed. July 1834. PARISH OF HUTTON. PRESBYTERY OF CHIRNSIDE, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TIVIOTDALE. THE REV. JOHN EDGAR, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Boundaries^ Sfc. — The parish of Fishwick was united to Hutton in 1614; and these two now form one parish. In this district, the parishes must have been ' originally very small, as most of the present ones formed two, and still are by no means large either in extent or population. Fishwick is situated on the north bank of the Tweed, and the ruins of thp church and church- yard yet remain. The site is very picturesque and solitary, Fish- wick probably derives its name from having been dijishing vittoffe. From its proximity to the Tweed, it is not improbable that its in- habitants in olden times were chiefly fishermen. Hutton, which lies to the north of Fishwick, and is bounded on the north by the river Whitadder, it has been conjectured, owes its name to its low situation — being originally How totvn, which in process of time be- came Hutton. It is now the name used to designate the united pa- rishes. Contiguous to this parish, on the north side of the Whitad- der, are the parishes of Chirnside, Foulden, and Mordington on the N. W. N.and N. E. — Edrom bounds it on the W. — Whitsome and Ladykirk on the S. W. — the Tweed on the S. : and the parish of Berwick on the E. In extent it is about four miles long, and upwards of three broad ; and its figure is a sort of irregular triangle. Topographical Appearances. — The general aspect of the parish is flat, presenting no elevated grounds deserving notice. On the banks of the Tweed and Whitadder, however, the ground is diversified by gentle elevations, which contrast well with the tame scenery of the other parts of the parish. The medium height above the level of the sea does not exceed 150 feet. The banks of the Whitadder are rather deficient in sylvan scenery. Were they planted, the proprietors would soon be remunerated, and the sce- ne rj, which possesses great capabilities for picturesque efiect, would be much improved. Soi7. — The soil on the banks ol iW T>w^^^ ^\v^ V^Vi^a-Ada^ k BUTTON. 151 extremely fertile, and well adapted for producing luxuriant crops of all kinds of grain, clover, turnips, and potatoes. It is a rich deep loam, generally resting upon freestone. Some of it is fine sharp land, excellently calculated for raising turnips ; but it is in general better fitted for wheat. In the middle of the parish the soil is by no means so good, but is thin, wet, and moorish, and has for its substratum a strong tenacious clay. A tract of land of this description, in breadth about a mile, commences here, and runs from east to west to the upper part of the county, while on each side of this stripe the soil is valuable and productive. The inhabit- ants are not liable to any particular diseases, arising from peculi- arity of climate ; and the parish upon the whole may be pronoun- ced healthy. Fevers seldom make their appearance here. The ague, which used to be here a periodical scourge, has entirely disap- peared, and instances of considerable longevity are by no means uncommon. Sandstone is found after digging to any considerable depth in almost every part of the parish. On the banks of the Whitadder, upon the estate of Hutton Hall, there is a stratum of gypsum* Some casts were made of it by Mr O'Neil, of Edinburgh, who found it to be of excellent quality, and well adapted to the purposes to which this mineral is generally applied. But whether there is suf- ficient quantity to repay the expense of working it, or whether it is practicable to do so from the steepness of the banks where it is found, is doubtful. IL — Civil History. The only circumstance worthy of notice, under this head, is, that it appears probable that the army of Edward I. encamped here on the 29th of March 1296, being the day preceding that on which he took the town of Berwick. From a diary of his pro- gress through Scotland, it appears that Hatton or Hauden was the place * where he and his army lay the day after he left Cold- stream. And as Hutton lies almost in the direct line of his march to Berwick from Coldstream, where he crossed the Tweed on the 28th of March, it seems almost certain that it was visited en passant by this arch foe of Scotland. Eminent Men. — It deserves also to be recorded that Andrew Foreman, Bishop of Moray, Archbishop of Bourges in France, and afterwards Archbishop of St Andrew's, • who flourished about the beginning of the sixteenth century, was a native of this ^ar • Transactions of the Antiquarian Society of LoTv^otv .'Y^^SX'ct^'g. WvsXw^j «S.^v<5»v- land, Notes — Carrick's Life of Sir William WaWacc, VoV V. v "^^ * 152 BERWICKSHIRE. rish. He is said to have been of the family of the Foremans* of HuttoD in the Merse. The uncommon political talents, and the acute understanding which distin^ished this prelate, gained for him most powerful patronage. He was a favourite of two suc- cessive Scottish monarchs, James HL and IV., two successive popes, Julius n. and Leo X., and of Louis XH. of France. By those high personages he was loaded with honours and bene- fices. Though opposed by powerful competitors, he was elevated to the first See in Scotland. He was likewise employed as an am- bassador from the court of Scotland to that of France. Histo- rians have given opposite portraits of his character, of the real features of which it is difficult to form an opinion. Of the family of this distinguished individual, the only trace that is left is a small, field, which, as if in mockery of mortal ambition, still retains the name of " ForemarCs LandJ^ The late Mr Philip Redpath, minister of this parish, was edi- tor of the Border History, which was chiefly written by his bro- ther Mr George Redpath, minister of Stitchell. The work is creditable to his talents and industry, and is generally considered as extremely accurate with regard to facts, and valuable as a book of reference. Mr Philip Redpath was also the author of an English translation of Boethius' Consolations of Philosophy, which met with a favourable reception from the public. The late George Home, Esq. of Wedderbum, resided for many years in this parish at his seat of Paxton. He was a gentle- man of extensive information, refined taste, and considerable lite- rary attainments, — having been a member of that distinguished club of literati who adorned Edinburgh at the period when the Mirror and Lounger were given to the public. Several of his pa- pers in these periodical works remain as monuments of his taste and talents. He was an intimate friend of the late Mr Henry Mackenzie, author of the Man of Feeling, of the late Lord Craig, and of other learned and talented individuals of the same school. These eminent characters frequently visited him during the sum- mer recess at his elegant retreat on the banks of the Tweed. Mr Home was also distinguished by his practical knowledge of busi- ness, and took a leading part in the management of the public af- fairs of the county, f • Dr Henry's History. •f- The late Mr Bookless, schoolmaster of this parish, when alive, attracted much attention for the extreme height of his stature, which was of a gigantic order, and is not yet forgotten by those who knew him. He was 7 feet 4 inches high. He was a man of mild and amiable dispositions, and fond of social intercourse, but his deli- HUTTON. 153 Land'owners. — The chief land- owners of this parish are, John Joseph M acbraire, Esq. of Broadmeadows and Fishwick ; William Foreman Home, Esq. of Billie and Paxton ; John Maclean Mac^ kenzie Grieve, Esq. of Hutton Hall ; the Rev. William Stow Lun- die of Spittal and Clarabad ; Captain Jeffreys of Sunwick ; Hugh Scott, Esq. of Harden ; and Henry Trotter, Esq. of Morton- Hall. Parochial Registers. — The earliest date of the parochial re- cords is 1649. They consist of five volumes, and with a chasm of twenty-eight years, viz. from 1672 to 1700, they have been re- gularly kept. Antiquities. — There are no antiquities in the parish deserving of much notice. From the ruins of the church of Fishwick which still remain, it appears to have been a very plain building, long and narrow, and of small dimensions. The mansion-house of Hutton Hall is rather a curious specimen of an ancient border keep, and almost the only one which is still inhabited in this dis- trict. It seems evidently to have been constructed as a place of strength, and for purposes of defence; and to have been built at several different periods. The date of its erection, how- ever, cannot be ascertained. The original building appears to have been a square tower, to which at different times a long nar- row dwelling-house has been added. It is situated on the brink of an eminence not far distant from the Whitadder, and overlook- ing that stream. The site is striking and uncommon, and the tout ensemble of the building, as well as its internal arrangements, forcibly recall to the mind the days when it was necessary, in the construction of houses, especially on the borders, to consult strength and security, rather than the graces of ornament, or the decora- tions of art. Modem Buildings. — There are several large and excellent man- sion-houses in the parish. Of these Paxton and Broadmeadows . are the most remarkable. The former was built upwards of sixty years ago, after a design of the celebrated Adams. The material employed is dark freestone ; and the front is remarkably handsome and massive, though perhaps rather heavy. It is a very substantial building, and contains several spacious and elegant apartments. In one of them, which is uncommonly large, and which was added cacy was frequently hurt by the intrusion of curious individuals; and with an ex- treme but excusable sensitiveness, he shrunk from the idea of being considered as a spectacle. Notwithstanding the apparent vigour of his frame, Providecvc<& Vv<^^ not blessed him with a robust constitution. He (Ued at a\\ \!«x\^ \v«t\o^ qH \\Sk.^ «xv^ hb remains were interred in the church-yard here. 154 BERWICKSHIRE. some years ago to the original building, there is a very numerous and valuable collection of paintings, which are much admired, and have a very imposing effect. The Tweed flows close past the house on the south-east Broadmeadows House is a more modem building, in the Grecian style of architecture. The stone employ- ed in its construction is a very fine white freestone. The apart- ments are elegant, and the accommodation extensive. Spittal House and Tweed-hill are neat country residences. The latter is situated on the Tweed, at a short distance from the Union Chain Bridge, and the whole scenery connected with this villa, as well as with Paxton, which is inunediately contiguous, presents features of considerable beauty. The trees at both these places seem to thrive admirably. HI. — Population. There are no records by which we can trace the ancient state of the population. That it was numerically less than at present is certain. It appears to have been gradually rising, until within the last ten or twelve years, when a slight decrease took place. 1. Population, according to the last Statistical Account, - 920 according to the Government census, in 1801, 955 1811, 1090 1821, 1118 1831, 1099 j J^t^^^ Population of the villages in 1831, Paxton, ... . 270 Ilutton, - ' - - 258 in the rest of the parish, - - . - 571 2. The yearly average of births for the last 7 years, . . . ;)2 ofdeaths ..... 20 of marriages, - - - - 14 3. llie average number of persons under 15, - - - • 400 betwixt 15 and 30, - . - 310 30 and 50, . - • 220 50 and 70, - . . 122 upwards of 70, - - - 47 4. Number of families of independent fortune resident in the parish, - 5 5. Number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, 1 1 6. Numberof&milicsinl83l, .... - 236 chiefly engaged in agriculture, > . - 113 in trades, manufactures or handicraft, 61 7. Number of inhabited houses, . - . - > .211 There are no uninhabited houses, and none building. Six illegitimate births have occurred during the last three years. Language^ Habits^ §*c. of the People. — The language generally spoken is the Berwickshire dialect of the Scots, intermixed occa- sionally with the Northumbrian burr. The most remarkable pe- culiarities which distinguish this dialect are observable in the fol- lowing words ; fire, pronounced^eyr^ ; water, wayter ; chair, shire ; two, twae ; church, surch ; cheese, sheese, &c. There is no rea- son to suppose that any very material alteration in this respect has occurred within the last forty years. HUTTON. 155 The cottage of a Berwickshire ploughman or labourer may vie in cleanliness with that of any of the same class either in England or Scotland. Seldom is there any of that squalor to be observed, which is so offensive in other districts of Scotland. The same regard to cleanliness and comfort is displayed in the article of dress. Where these habits prevail, it will be generally found, that they are the accompaniments of sobriety, industry, morality, and religion, and that opposite habits are commonly associated with irreligion and profligacy. That the people enjoy in a reasonable degree the comforts and advantages of society cannot be doubted. They themselves feel that they do so, and are thankful for these advantages. Employ- ed entirely in agricultural labours, they are not overworked, but have sufficient leisure to attend to their families, and to cultivate the moral, religious, and domestic affections. Not being huddled to- gether in dense masses, they are not exposed to those temptations with which the manufacturing population of large and crowded towns is beset, but maintain that independence of mind, simplicity of character, sobriety of thought, and decency of conduct, which are generally associated with rural life. Many of them bring up large families upon slender means, and it rarely happens that the education of their children is neglected. Few of them intermeddle with the irritating subject of politics, or with the controversial dis- putations of theology. Knowing that their superiors are interested in their welfare, they pay them that respect to which they are en- titled. The higher classes, in their turn, are charitable and atten- tive to the poor; and thus a bond of union is formed betwixt them, which is productive of the best effects. The peasantry are intelligent and acute, and few of them are without a small collection of books, and of these, the majority gene- rally consists of those old manuals of divinity, which have by pre- scriptive right long been the favourites of the Scottish peasantry. The frequent perusal of these books, though homely in their garb, and perhaps not very polished in style, has a tendency to keep alive their reasoning faculties, as well as to foster and confirm their religious principles. With them also a taste for reading is gain- ing ground; and, with their moral habits, and sound modes of thinking, it is to be hoped that the influence produced may prove salutary. In all the practical processes of agricultural and rural economy, they are in general well informed, and in the maLW^««vev:^. a^ ^<^>w^!^ >^x^"wcss. s:^ 164 BERWK'KSHIRK. both sexes, in which they are taught tlie elements of religious knowledge. The children of one of these schools come regularly to church, and seats are provided for them. They are thus pre- vented from spending the Lord's day in idleness ; and are accus- tomed to the solemnities of public worship. Libraries. — There are two small libraries in the parish, the one consisting of miscellaneous books, and the other of books of a re- ligious"character. Friendly Society. — A friendly society was instituted iu the pa- rish in 1812, the object of which is to afford pecuniary aid to sick and aged members. The annual payment of each member is 7s. 6d. Funeral expenses are also allowed to members and their widows. There are seventy-four persons who now contribute to it, and its funds, which are laid out at interest, amount to L. 400. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of persons at present receiving parochial aid is 34, — who receive at an average 2s, per week. There are at present several heavy cases on the parish roll, of persons having numerous families, and, of course, receiving more than the ordinary allowance, — thus increasing the average sum. Nineteen on the roll receive from Is. to Is. 6d. per week ; but there are other families, such as those just mentioned, who receive as high as 4s. 5s. and 6s. per week. The sum required for the main- tenance of the poor is raised by assessment on the landlords and tenants, according to the valued rcnt^ with the addition of the church collections. For this purpose, meetings of the heritors and kirk-session are held twice a-year. This parish is not ex- empted from the peculiar disadvantages with respect to the poor, to which border parishes are exposed. From the difficulty of ac- quiring a legal settlement in England, many poor persons, after having spent the greater part of their lives on the other side of the Tweed, return, after an absence of twenty, thirty, or forty years, and claim relief from the Scotch parish, where they resided for the last three years before their removal to England. Instances of this kind are of frequent occurrence. The English parishes are very alert in removing persons to Scotland who may probably become burdensome ; but the Scots parishes have no such legal right of re- moving paupers to England. The vicinity to England, where pau- ])ers receive a more liberal allowance than in Scotland, has a bad effect upon the poor, — rendering them dissatisfied with their allot- ted pittance. They are continually referring to the more profuse system of the former country, and hhiting at what persons in their condition would receive there. That virtuous pride, which in for- HUTTON. 165 mer times shrunk from accepting parish relief, is gradually expiring. The people do not consider it as any disgrace to be on the poors' roll ; but, in imitation of their southern neighbours, claim the allowance as a right. Instances still occur, however, where the good old feel- ing is visible, and where aged and infirm persons are averse to have recourse to the parish for relief, till reduced to do so by extreme necessity. Aged unmarried females and widows form the great proportion of the persons receiving parochial aid. Some of these last have numerous families. The sick, aged, and infirm, are the only persons who are admitted on the roll. The heritors, in ge- neral, are very liberal to the poor. Their wants are carefully at- tended to ; and here, at least, the system of poor rates has not dried up the springs of private charity. Inns. — There are eight inns or alehouses in the parish, none of which are much frequented, and one-half of which would be more than sufficient. ' Fuel. — The fuel used is coal, which is all brought from the other side of the Tweed, from about three or four miles distance, and at an expense of about 5s. per one horse cart-load, besides driving. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the last Statistical Account, rents have been more than doubled ; a taste for reading, and a desire of acquiring useful in- formation, have been more generally diffused ; the people are bet- ter dressed, and live more comfortably ; tne salutary influence of education is more extensively felt; and attention to the outward ordinances of religion has not declined. Since this Statistical Report was written, the building of a new parish church has commenced, and is now proceeding, after a handsome design by an architect of taste, and of sufficient size to afford ample accommodation for the parishioners. There is also almost a certain prospect of a bridge being soon constructed across the Whitadder, near Hutton mill, connecting this parish with that of Foulden, and opening up greater facilities of communication with the internal parts of the county, and its only sea^party that of Eyemouth. A beautiful plan of a bridge has been, furnished by Mr Jardine of Edinburgh, civil-engineer, — for the carrying of which into execution, a subscription has been entered into, and the requisite amount almost obtained. The liberal sum of L. 600 has been subscribed by a considerable heri- tor of this parish, and several other handsome sums by neighbour- ing gentlemen. No public improvement y^?^ xwqt^ xv^»\^. Jufy 18, 1834. UNITED PARISHES OF WHITSOME AND HILTON. PRESBYTERY OF CHIRNSIDE, SYNOD OF MER8E AND TIVIOTDALE, THE REV. ADAM LANDELS, MINISTER .♦ I. — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Boundaries, Sfc. — The ancient name of WhiUome is va- riously written, — Whytshoom, fVhitsum, Quitsum^ ond Huitmnu It is derived from JVhite or Huite, and Ham or Home. Huite appears as one of the witnesses in Edgar's charter granting the adjoining Swinton to the monks of St Cuthbert, When the charter was confirmed in 1392, the chancery clerk of Robert IIL wrote Qhuite for Huite. The circumstantial evidence is therefore pretty strongy that the parish is indebted for its present designation to the ren- dence of White ; and thus its origin may be traced to a period an- terior to the conquest. The etymology of Hilton, indicating a town on or near an eminence, is obvious. The two parishes were united in 1 735. Of course, whenever the term " parish " or ** Whit- some" occurs in the sequel, it will be understood to include Hil- ton, except when differently explained. The extent of the parish in length from east to west is about 4^ miles, and in medial breadth 1 f . The whole contains 7 J square miles. It presents the figure of an irregular parallelogram, bound- ed on the east by Hutton; on the south by Lady kirk and Swinton; and on the west and north by Edrom. The easterly and northerly parts of the parish are generally flat; a belt of low land also stretches along the course of the Leet, while an undulating surface diversifies the remainder. The exact elevation of the highest ground above the level of the sea has not been ascertained, but it is conjectured not to exceed 350 feet. Geology. — The direction of the strata in this part of the coun- try is always found to be east and south-east, the angle of their dip varying from 15 to 25 degrees. Sandstone is everywhere • This Account has been drawn up by the Rev. Mr Renninon, Assistant- Minister, ▼itb the anistance of Mr Scott of the parochial school. WHITSOME AND HILTON. 167 abundant, and generally forms a bed of 40 feet in thickness, im- mediately beneath the surface. In the years 1824 and 1825, an attempt was made, by boring, at Myreside quarry, on the estate of Blackadder, to determine whether there existed a coal seam of sufficient quality and magnitude to warrant an expenditure of ca- pital. The result was deemed unfavourable. The information obtained from the person who conducted the experiment on that occasion, enables us to compile the following tabular statement* We retain the local names. Strata. 21. Blaes, 22. Hard rock, 23 Blaea, 24. Very hard blue rock, 25. Blaes with blackish particles, 18 26. Limestone strata, irr^ular, 27. Soft slate, 28. Hard troubled rock, 29. Slate, 30. Slate and white freestone, 31. Coal III 200 feet 9 inches, incalculable, 32. Blaes and freestone mixed with a yellow metallic ore, . 14 33. and remaining depth consist- ing of alternate strata of slate, freestone, limestone, ^fuller's earth, with very thin layers of coal below the slate and free- stoae, . 145 Strata. Ft. In. 1. Red sandstone. 40 6 2. White sandstone, 8 6 a Soft marl. 14 4. Hard rocky marl, 2 6 5. Soft slaty marl, 5 6 6. Soft earth, 4 6 7. Hard marl, 5 6 8. White freestone, 10 9. Strong red clay, 4 6 10. Blaes, 16 6 11. Hard limestone rock, 2 12. Blaes, 16 8 13. Hard blue rock, 2 5 14. Slat4!, 2 10 15. Hard rock, 4 6 16. Coal I — 140 feet 5 inches,- — extremely thin, 17. Two strata of limestone, with one-fourth of an inch of gray sand between. 2 3 la Slate, 1 6 19. Hard limestone. 1 9 20. Coal 1I.~146 feet 4 inches. 5 7 xu. G 2 6 11 7 1 18 1 3 3 3 2 7 3 4 Extreme depth, 360 The alluvial soil, to a considerable depth, is replete with vege- table remains, such as oak copsewood, hazel nuts, and the various plants indigenous to the country. On penetrating farther, a species of marl, composed chiefly of shells and plants, is thrown up, — thus demonstrating that the whole track was at an early period under water. Fir on the inferior soils, and the difierent kinds of hard wood on the richer, are grown, principally on the estates of Wynnefield, Blackadder, and Laws. They are all in a thriving condition, and, while forming an agreeable ornament to the landscape, will amply remunerate the proprietors. * IL — Civil History. Historical Notices.f — Previous to the Reformation, Whitsome * For full information on the botanical department, we beg to refer to " A Flora of Bcrwick-on- Tweed,** by George Johnston, M. D., whose high talents, and inde- fisligable leal, are devoted to this and other branches of natural history. Dr John* stones Flora comprehends the counties ac^oining Berwick. f For these notices, with the exception of such as were \ww«u•»^V3 vcvN«^v^\»^>Qii ir>8 BKRWICKSHIRE. and Hilton were rectories. Rauf de Hawden, the parson of Whit- some, and David, the parson of Hilton, among others of the clergy, swore fealty to Edward I. of England at Berwick, on the 24th of August 1296, when their parsonages were restored. In Bagimont's Rolls, the tenth of Whitsome rectory was rated at L.6, 13s. 4d.; and the taxatio at 45 merks. Hilton tcLxatio was set down at 18 marks. — The advowson of Whitsome church has always been annexed to the manor which belonged to the Earls of March and Dunbar ; and, after passing through several hands, it is now vested in John Wilson, Esq. of Whitsome Hill. Together with " Ederham et Nesbitt," Whitsome was granted to the monks of Coldingham by that " sore saint for the ci^gwn," David I. of Scotland, and afterwards confirmed to them by William. Robert I. granted to Roger Pringle half of the lands of Whit- some, the whole of which, valued at 200s. of old extent, had been forfeited by John de Yle. Thomas Hop Pringle of Smailholm and Galashiels died about the close of the fourteenth century. He was succeeded by his son, Adam Pringle of Whitsome, who married, during his father's lifetime, Marjory Keith, daughter of William Keith, grand Mar- shal of Scotland. By his marriage he obtained an important ac- cession to his estate, as appears by a charter under the Great Seal from King David Bruce, dated 25th January 1362. This Adam, and many of his successors, attached themselves to the powerful family of Douglas, and shared in the enterprises of the period, doing essential service to that illustrious house, and earning a rich harvest of martial fame. Adam left a son and successor in Robert Pringle of Whitsome, afterwards of Smailholm and Gala. He was a warm patriot, and stood high, while a young man, in favour With the heroic James Earl of Douglas, to whom he acted in the capacity of scutifer or shield^hearer at Otterburn, the last of his fields. There are still preserved several charters, to the aforesaid Robert, of the different parts, of the lands and barony of Smail- holm, viz. T£RRAs DOMicALES DE Smailholm, Smailkolm Crafff the tower of Smailholm^ &c. which were long enjoyed by his poste- rity ; and, as he preferred the designation of Smailhohn to that of Whitsome, the former became one of the chief titles of the family. us, and of tliose which we have gathered from the popular traditions, we must ac- knowledge our obligations to Chafmert* " Caledonia," « Cliarter Chest of the Fami- ly of Harden,** Sir David Erskine*» " Antiquities of Dryburgh," and a manuscript copy of the Charters of Coldingham, in the possession of Mr Alexander Allan Carr, surgeon in Ayton, who has otherwise contributed to our hhtoitcal factt. WHITSOME AND HILTON. 169 In the same year, 1362, David II. also granted to William de Wardlaw two carrucates of land in the manor of Hilton ; which, like many other properties in that age, had fallen to the crown by the forfeiture of Adam de Hilton, in consequence of his adherence to the English interest* The remaining half of the lands of Whit- some was conferred by the same monarch on William Colville. In the month of July 1482, Whitsome was burned and destroyed by the celebrated Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard III. of England. The following places in Berwickshire suffered a simi- lar fate, viz. Edrington, Fishwick, Paxton, Hutton, Mordington with its bastel, Edrom, East Nesbitt, Kellaw, Kimarghame, the two Syntons and bastel, Simprin, Crossrig, and many others. To convey some idea of Whitsome as it was, it may be noticed, that the range of land on the north side of the village was divided into several small portions, still denominated '^ lands." Hence, the possessors or occupiers were styled " portioners." " The ten lands " formed the southern part of the present farm of Ravelaw ; and ^Hhe nine" and ^^ the eight" lay east from the preceding, and are included in the farm of Leetside. The southern side was par- celled out in like manner. The space between the two ranges, of considerable breadth, and upwards of half a mile in length, was enjoyed in common. The portioners were retainers of the Lord of the Manor, to whom, according to, custom, they were bound to render military service. — The only vestiges of common, the right of the villagers to which is undisputed, consist of two small patches, — the one at the east end of the village, and the other on the north side near the centre. Both are used for bleaching, — a purpose to which they are well adapted by the plentiful supply of water on the grounds. The water proceeds from an excellent spring in the middle of each patch. The former spring derives its name, ^^ The Blind Well," from an obvious casualty which befel a blind man : the latter, designated " Reed's Well," is reported to be so called in consequence of one Reed having lost his life near the spot, in a scufBe which arose at a fair then holding; and tradition adds, that, owing to this tragical event, the people were deprived of the privi- lege of holding, a fair, nor has it been resumed since the fatal pe- riod. — In connection with the origin of names, it may be recorded, that the Blackadder plantations are vulgarly called ^' The Pistol plantings," on account of a gentleman of the neighbourhood, on his way home at an advanced hour of the night, having been fired at from one of the thickets. 170 BERWICKSHIRE. Ravelaw is distinguished by having been the temporary residence of the Rev. Henry Erskine after his ejection from CornhilL Dur- ing his stay here, he frequently preached at Old Newton, where his ministrations, under the Divine blessing, produced the first se- rious impressions on the youthful mind of Boston. It is another incident worthy of note, that when Boston himself once officiated in Whitsome church, which was then thatched, such a multitude flocked from all quarters, that many, in their eagerness to hear him, mounted the roof of the humble edifice^ tore off* portions of the straw, and thus contrived to gratify both eve and ear. * The communion cups (of silver) for the service of Whitsome bear that they were — " Gifted by Countess of Home, to the kirk of WTiitsome, 1704." Hilton bell, which had been rung by the hand, is preserved. It has on its rim, in legible characters, — " For Hiltoun, lyiS.** It may be regarded as an apt memorial of the kirk to which it ministered, for it has lost the tongue. Land-owners, — The chief land-owners, according to their valued cess, arc, John Wilson, Esq. of Whitsome- Hill ; David Low, Esq. of Laws, Professor of Agriculture in the University of Edinburgh; Miss Boswall of Blackadder, (Dykegatehead Leet- side, &c.;) the most noble tl}e Marquis of Tweeddale, (Ravelaw;) of Wynnefield ; Robert Brown, Esq. of Old Newton ; Henry Trotter, Esq. of Morton- Hall, (Hilton;) Forster, Esq. of Jardinefield ; John Allan, Esq. of New Newton ; James Herriot, Esq of Herriot Bank ; George Taitt, Esq. of Longridge; and Henry Seymour Ker, Esq. of Moriston, (Stridlins.) * When the tide of persecution ran high, Daniel Douglas was minister of Hilton. There is a popular tradition to the effect, that one day during public worship an in- dividual of the dominant party, <}frended at certain words which fell from the preacher, laid violent hands upon him, and dragged him from tlie pulpit. A slight effusion of blood was the consequence, on which the maltreated pastor predicted, in hearing of the congregation, that the cowardly assailant's own hlotxl would yet stain the floor of the sanctuary, and be licked by dogs. It hapi>cncd socm after, that the person hom whom Mr D. suffered such ill usage, received a mortal wound from an enemy. A crowd of attendants proceeded homewards with the corse, but on their way they were ovcrukcn by a storm, which forced them to the nearest shelter, the kirk of Hilton. They had not long remained beneath the sacred roof, when the d«ui man*8 wound broke out afresh, dripped through the bandages, and was actually lapped by tome hounds that had accompanied the procession, 'llic truth of the tradition we do not vfiuch. After the Revolution, previously to which he had taken refuge in Holland* Mr Doughis returned to Hilton, and there continued to exercise the pastoral fiine- tions till his decease. He die3\«>>Acsci>>>ci^^'«^^^ BERWICK. M 178 BERWICKSHIRE. Still of late years, there has been a gradual and sensible return U the Establishment. The average number of church communis cants may be reckoned at 200, more or less. A branch of the Berwickshire Bible Society was instituted ii 1816, under the auspices of the late Thomas Boswall, Esq. ol Blackadder. Its annual contributions average L. 5. A Temper- ance Society also originated in 1831 ; it counts thirty members. The collections in church for religious and charitable purposes have not exceeded L. 20 during the last seven years ; and they were made in aid of the Assembly's Highland Schools, the Assembly's India Mis- sion, the Scottish Missionary Society, and the Royal Infirmary ol Edinburgh. Education. — There are two schools in Whitsome, one parochial, and one unendowed. In both, English, writing, arithmetic, and practical mathematics are taught ; and in the former, the Latin, Greek, and French languages, with the principles of general know* ledge, form additional branches. The Scriptures and Shorter Cate- chism hold a prominent place in the course of Instruction, which in its character is the Intellectual system, modified to suit circum- stances. The salary annexed to the Established school is the maximum, viz. 2 chalders of oatmeal, valued at L. 34, 4s. 4 Jd. and the fees amount to L. 26, 10s. The children of poor families are taught ^ra^'^. The teacher has all the legal accommodations, the ground connected with which was presented to the heritors by the Earl of Wemyss. The master of the other school is dependent solely on the fees, which amount to L. 29, 1 5s. The expense of education is, for reading, 3s. ; for writing, 4s. ; for arithmetic, 5s. ; and for Latin, &c. 8s. 6d. per quarter. Not more than three quar- ters and a-half in the year can be reckoned on. As the people are keenly alive to the benefits of education, there is no instance of any, whether young or old, who are destitute of elementary in- struction. The more rapid and extensive difiusion of useful know- ledge, however, might be facilitated, were it not that the humbler families find it extremely difficult to procure the necessary books ; and the most estimable boon which an enlightened beneficence could confer, would arise from an addition to the parochial endow- ments with a special reference to the wants noticed, and with a security, that those wants should be supplied. Certain it is, that the most intelligent, well-informed, and religious individuals, are blished church has gained an accession of 16. In 18dd» the Dissenters amounted to one-third plus 2 of the parishioners : in 1834, their entire number is one-third minus 31 J of the whole. WHITSOME AND HILTON. 170 at the same time the most industrious, orderly, and loyal sub- jects. This remark is the result of personal and daily obser^ vation. Poor and Parochial Funds. — In 1775, the legal assessment for the poor was L. 13. It varied little till 1800, when, owing to the deficiency of crop, and the consequent rise in the price of provisions, it was L. 78, 12s. Before the shock of that year had subsided, the pressure of 1816 commenced, and another rise in the assessment ensued, which in 1818 was L. 201, 6s. From that date it gradually diminishedi and in the present year, ending at Martinmas 1833, it is L. 115, 19s. Out of this sum various expenses, including an item of L. 8 for enabling a pauper to emi*- grate to Canada, are paid, so that the gross amount remaining for the poor regularly on the roll is L. 88^ 12s. The number of persons now receiving parochial aid is 18; and therefore the ave» rage sum allotted to each, L.4, 18s. 5^. annually, or Is. lOjd. weekly.' The church collections furnish yearly about L. 6, which by courtesy are left at the disposal of the minister and session for the relief of incident cases. The poor here enjoy the advan- tage of a soup-kitchen maintained at Allanton by the liberality of Mrs Boswall, who also distributes amongst them every winter a quantity of coal and clothing. Nor should we omit to mention^ that in 1829 the sum of L. 20 was left by the late Mrs Hogarth of Hilton, the interest of which, agreeably to the wishes of the donor, is expended in the purchase of Bibles for children, whose parents are in necessitous circumstances. The heritors, in their collective capacity, kindly allow five per cent for the principal. It is, moreover, worthy of being recorded, that, on the occurrence of casual distress in families, arising out of loss of property or do- mestic bereavements, all classes in the parish are cUstinguished for the cordial sympathy which they evince, and the liberal benefac- tions which they make, in behalf of the sufierers. And this, too, seems to be done in approval, and for the nurture, of that inde- pendent feeling which operates almost universally as a preventive to their applying for parochial aid. Where ignorance and habits subversive of economy prevail, recourse is had to any available quarter for pecuniary means; but with us the disposition to refrain from seeking relief in the sources provided by law, is strong as it is honourable. But often, when old age or unavoidable infirmities generate the necessity of securing a regular and continued suste- nance, an application is reluctantly made. ISO BERWICK8HIEE. Inns. — Two inns have sprung up in the course of the last seve years, previous to which there bad been none for a long perio Their existence cannot but be deprecated. Fuel. — Coat constitutes the common fueL It is brought fro Northumberland, (the distance to the nearest colliery being aboi nine miles,) and costs from 7d. to 8d. a cwt. A few cartr-loads cuttings, &c from the adjoining plantations prove very serriceabl Miscellaneous Observations. The more striking variations betwixt the present state of tl parish and that which existed at tlie time of the last Statistical Ai count are, — the demolition of the houses and cottages on the fam of Deadrigg, Cartrigg, Myreside, and Leethead ; the first a»d » cond being annexed to Whitsome-hill, the third to Dyke^tehea and the fourth to Blackadder Bank : — a wider spread of knowledg and a higher degree of refinement amongst all ranks : — a great ai dition to the quantity of arable land : — the rise of flourishing plai tations and hedge-rows: — the levelling and Macadamizing of tl public roads : — the introduction of more powerful thrashing-m: chinery : — an improved mode of husbandry : — and the erection a new church. A change from the four to the five-shift system, — a facility obtaining tiles for drains, — and an extension of liberal policy ( the part of landlords, would tend to promote the interests of agi culture ; while a stricter regard to cottage accommodations, — tl removal of every thing that depresses the remuneration of laboi below a reasonable standard, — the allotment of small pieces of lai to deserving householders, to be cultivated by the spade, — and provision for effectually supplying the schools with appropriate se of books, — are means which appear to us well calculated to encoi rage and advance industry, and to increase the comfort, ind< pendence, and happiness of the labouring-classes. July 1634. PARISH OF LADYKIRK. PRESBYTERY OF CUIRNSIDE,^ SYNOD OF MERSE AND TIVIOTDALE. THE REV. GEORGE H. ROBERTSON, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name, Boundaries. — The ancient name of this parish was Up- setlington. ^^ The parish of Upsetlington took its name/' says Chalmers, (Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 361,) "from the Kirktown, which stands on the northern margin of the Tweed, somewhat higher than Norham, on the opposite bank." The origin of the name is obscure. In 1500, James IV. erected a new church for this parish, which he dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and hence, in after times, the parish became known by the name of Lady- kirk, although part of it still retains the ancient appellation of Upsetlington. Ladykirk comprehends the parishes of Horn- dene and Upsetlington, which were united at the Reforma- tion for the enlargement of the minister's stipend. " The name of the parish of Homdene," says Chalmers, ( Caledonia, VoL ii. p. 361,) " is peculiarly Saxon. Horn in the Anglo-Saxon tongue signifies a corner, and dene, a vale," — an appellation remarkably descriptive of the site of that part of the parish, lying in a comer, Sind in a valley sloping towards the Tweed. The parish is bounded on the south by the river Tweed ; on the north, by the parish of Whitsome ; on the east, by that of Hutton ; and on the west, by that of Swinton. It is three miles long, and one broad, and contains about 3100 English acres. The country is flat, with a few rising-grounds. Climate. — This parish, lying along the banks of the Tweed, and sloping to the south, is considerably milder in climate than the country to the north and east, the frost being less severe than on the higher grounds, and the parching east winds which prevail in the spring moderated by its distance from the coast There is no prevailing disease peculiar to the parish ; and it is generally healthy, — many of its inhabitants attaining to an advanced age. Geology and Mineralogy. — The parish is marked, alon^ iW 182 BERWitKSHlRE. banks of the Tweed to the east and westward, by nearly horizontal strata of white compact micaceous sandstone, containuig impres- sions of fossil monocotyledonous and apparently dicotyledonous vegetables, which alternate with schistose marls, and a dark-co- loured impure limestone; towards the western extremity of the parish, a red-coloured variety of sandstone occurs, forming a con- tinuation of the strata of a similar rock which is quarried in the ad- joining parish of Swinton. Botany. — There are three rare Scottish plants foimd on Holy- well-haugh, viz. Cichorium intybus (wild succory ;) Lactuca virosa (strong-scented lettuce;) BiiAIntdadysenterica (conmion flea-bane.) The trees which appear most congenial to the soil are the oak and the plane. In many places, after forty years' growth, the tops of the elm and the ash begin to decay, in consequence of the roots reaching the subsoil, which is of a cold till. II. — Civil History. Mention is made of this parish in Chalmers' Caledonia, in Rid- path's Border History, and in manuscripts in possession of the Dean and Chapter of Durham. The supplemental treaty to that of Chateau Cambreses between the English and Scotch was con- cluded within the church. On the 2d of June 1291, eight of the competitors for the Crown, with several of the prelates, nobles, and community of Scotland, assembled on Holywell-haugh, oppo- site to Norham Castle, to settle with Edward I. the dispute rela-» tive to the succession. {Vidcy Border History, p. 174.) Land-owners. — The principal land-owner is Miss Robertson of Ladykirk, who succeeded her grandfather, Mr Robertson, in 1830, and is still a minor. Parochial Registers. — The greater part of the parish records has been destroyed. One book, however, remains, the first entry in which is dated 1697 ; at that period, these records appear to have been kept very confusedly,— r-births, marriages, and deaths being intermingled with meetings of kirk-sessions. The records have been kept regularly only since the induction of the late schoolmaster in 1817. Antiquities, S^c. — In what is called the Chapel Park, a little lower down the river than Upsetlington, a few large stones, and the superior richness of the soil, mark where the ancient monas- tery stood. Near the spot are three springs of excellent water, over which the late proprietor of the grounds erected pillars, inscribing on them the appellation of the Nun's, the Monk's, and St Mary's LADYKIRK. 183 Well. In a field opposite to Norham Castle, numerous cannon- balls have been found. Modem Buildings. — The only mansion-house in the parish is Ladykirk House, — a modern building. Within the grounds there is^a mausoleum erected by the late proprietor ; but he afterwards requested to be entombed within the walls of the church, where others of his family have been buried, and the mausoleinn remains unoccupied. III. — Population. By return to Dr Webster in ]755» the population was - 386 By census in 1811, - - • 535 1821, - - - 527 1831, - - - 485 By a census taken by the present incumbent in 1834, - 455 This diminution of population since the year 1821 is to be at- tributed to the death of the late Mr Robertson of Ladykirk, who gave employment to numerous labourers, in improving and beauti- fying his property, and also to the numbers who have eniigrated to Canada. There are residing in the village of Homdene, ]28; in Upset- lington. 111. The only family of independent fortune residing in the parish is that of Mr Robertson of Ladykirk. Number of unmarried men, (bachelors and widowers,) upwards of 50 years of age, 10 unmarried women upwards of 45, - - - 16 fiimilies in the parish, * - - - • 108 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 54 in trade, manufactures, and handicraft, 35 There are no insane, blind, deaf, or dumb, persons in the pa- rish, and only two who may be denominated fatuous. Habits and Character of the People. — The inhabitants of the parish are honourably distinguished by those habits and characte- ristics which generally prevail throughout the agricultural districts of Scotland. They are cleanly, sober, industrious, and contented. They live comfortably, and in friendly intercourse with each other, and are anxious to afford a good education to their children. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — There are 3100 acres of imperial measure in the parish ; about fifty of which are under plantation. Rent of Land. — The average value of the arable land is L. 1, 13s. per acre. The average rate of grazing is L. 4 per ox or cow grazed, and 12s. per ewe. Rate of Wages. — The rate of wages for farm-labourers is 9s* 184 ^ BERWICKSHIRE. st-week in winter, and averages lis. in summer; ISs. for masoos and carpenters. Husbandry. — Generally speaking, the rotation of crop is to have two years' pasture, and to sow down with the crop succeeding the fallow or turnips. There is, however, a peculiarity in this parish very unusual in the low districts in Scotland, viz. that nearly one- fourth part of the whole land is in perennial pasture, generally speaking of the finest quality, and capable of fattening oxen of the largest size ; and, by a deed of entail by the late Mr Robertson of Ladykirk, it cannot be ploughed up. In the year 1788, this gentleman, remarking the superior qua- lities of a beautiful description of cattle in the possession of a few yeomen and farmers in the county of Durham, particularly the late Messrs CoUings, purchased seventeen of them, which were consi- dered to be the best (A the breed, and fixed an extra price on this kind of cattle now so celebrated. One of the cows thus brought to Ladykirk appears to have possessed extraordinary properties; and from her the whole existing race of short^horns have descend- ed. Her name was Strawberry, bought from a Mr Mainard by C. Colling. She produced the famous bull BoUngbroke, and was sis- ter to old Phoenix, from whence sprung Favourite, Comet, &c The latter bull sold at 1000 guineas, and tile blood is now univer- sally diffused throughout the kingdom. The sheep are of the Lei- cester breed, and great attention is paid to this description of stock. The general duration of leases is nineteen or twenty-one years. The farm-buildings are generally commodious, and the enclosures well preserved. Fisheries. — There are three stations for salmon-fishing, and the rent of the whole at present is L. 100 per annum, which is about one-half the former rent, the quantity of the fish having greatly decreased. Average Gross Amount of Raw Produce. — Grain, 960 acres, at L. 7 per acre, - L. 6720 Turnips and potatoes, 120 acres, at L. 5 per acre, 600 Fallow, 360 acres. Hay, 360 acres, at L. 5 per acre, - - 1800 Pasture, 600 acres, at L. 1 per acre, - - 600 Perennial grass, 700 acres, at L. 2 per acre, - 1400 Gardens and orchards, - - - 60 Thinnings of woods, - - - 50 Fisheries, --.... 100 L. n,dao o V. — Parochial Economy. Market-town^ Sfc. — Coldstream, seven miles distant, is the nearest LADYKIRK. 185 markeUiowii. The parish is, however, chiefly supplied with ar- ticles of consumption from Berwick, nine miles distant, by a carrier weekly. There is a branch penny post every day from Cold- stream to Ladykirk, obtained in consequence of a petition got up by the present incumbefit. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated nearly in the centre of the parish, about 1 ^ mile from each extremity. It is built in the form of a cross, is a handsome and substantial structure, of Gothic architecture, and is composed of lofty freestone arches in the interior, and is covered with a stone roof. It has, however, been as much as possible disfigured by modern bad taste. As notified by a Latin inscription in the interior of the church, it was repaired by Mr Robertson of Ladykirk in 1743; and a belfry was then added, which is not at all in unison with the building. From the interior of the church a school-room has been portioned off, much to the injury of its appearance. Although situated on a rising ground, which commands an extensive view, (instead of being permitted to stand alone as an ornament to the country,) it is closely surrounded by a ruinous farm-stead. It is seated for dOO persons, and affords ample accommodation for the parishioners. It is also rendered comfortable in winter by two stoVes. The manse was built about sixty years ago. After the acces- sion of the present incumbent in 1819, the heritors and minister repaired and added to it. Like most manses, especially old ones, having been wretchedly finished at first, (doubtless according to the cheapest estimate,) it has been and ever will be, a continual oc- casion of expense to both. More has been already expended on repairs than would have built a commodious new house ; and it shakes from the foundation with every blast The glebe contains eleven acres, of land, of very good quality, has been lately drained and improved, and would let at present for about L. 2, 10s. per acre. The amount of the stipend is six chal- ders in grain, and L. 88, 2s. 8d. in money, and averages about L. 170 per annum. All the teinds are valued and exhausted. There is one dissenting chapel in the parish, belonging to the Burghers. The minister is paid from seat rents, and the salary amounts to L. 118 per annum, with a house and garden. There are 63 families, or 272 individuals (children included) who at- tend the Established church. There are 45 families, or 183 in- dividuals (children included) who attend the dissenting chapel. Divine service is well and regularly attended. The average nuxxv- 186 BERWICKSHIRE. ber of communicants at the Established church, for the last five years, is 170 ; for the five years preceding, 160. The average amount of the church collections is from L. 5 to L. 6 per an- num, the greater part of which is expended in the payment of church officers. Education. — There is only one school in the parish, viz. the parochial school, where Greek, Latin, French, and the more usual branches of education, are taught The salary of the schoolmaster, unfortunately, is the minimum, amounting to L. 25, Ids. S^d. ; the school fees average about the same sum, to which may be added L. 15 arising from other sources. The rate of school fees was fixed by the heritors in 1817, and is the same as in the neighbour- ing parishes. There are four or five persons upwards of 6 years of age who cannot read; none, upwards of 15. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons re- ceiving parochial aid, for the last five years, is 18, and the average sum allotted to each is 2s. per week, which, together with occa- sional supplies, amounts to about L. 100 per annum. This is de- rived from a cess paid by the heritors and tenants. There ap- pears to be little or no feeling of degradation among the poor in soliciting parochial aid : nearly all apply as soon as they think it will be granted. Fairs. — There is a fair held on the 5th of April, where linen and lintseed are the principal articles of sale. Alehouses. — There are three alehouses in the parish ; two would be amply sufficient ; but the people being generally of sober habits, any evil effects from them are scarcely perceptible. Fuel. — Coal is the only description of fuel used in the parish; it is brought from North Durham, five miles distant, and is pur- chased at the rate of 7s. a ton at the coal-pit Auffust 1834. UNITED PARISHES OF SWINTON AND SIMPRIN. PRESBYTERY OF CHIRNSIDE, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TIVIOTDALE. THE REV. JAMES LOGAN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name J Boundaries, Sfc, — The parishes of Swinton and Simprin were united by the annexation of Simprin in 1761. The word *^ Swinton'' seems to have undergone no change since the earliest periods of Scottish history; and like Swine^woody the ancient name of an adjacent tract of land, it may have been connected with the prevalence in this district of wild boars, with which the whole of the country is understood to have been formerly infested. Sim- prin, there is sufficient evidence, is not a modem name ; but neither tradition nor any historical notice throw light upon its etymology. The united parishes form a sort of traiUng oblong figure, ( the boundary lines of which are very irregularly indented) of about 4 miles in length from east to west, by 3 or d| miles in breadth. The surface, neither perfectly level, nor yet at all hilly, consists of a succession of low, parallel, wave-like ridges ; ranging from east to west, with interjacent level spaces of considerable extent Climate. — The climate of Swinton may perhaps be character- ized as rather humid ; but scarcely, if at all, more so now, than that of the contiguous parishes. A considerable improvement in this respect seems to have taken place since the period of the last Statistical Account Ague, which is mentioned by Mr Cup- pies as being a very prevalent disorder then, owing to the ex- cessive dampness of both earth and air, is now almost unknown, — one instance only having occurred during the last seventeen years. Hydrography. — There are no peculiar, and but few good, springs in the parish. They flow through a deep bed of tenacious clay, lying upon sandstone; and, as there is nowhere any considerable elevation, are apt to be impure, and, unless where sunk to a great depth, to fail in summer during a drought. A loch of consider- able extent, called ^^ Swinton Lochj** has been drained since 170Q« 188 BERWICKSHIRE. There is only one stream, and that inconsiderable, — the Leet, which rises in the neighbouring parish of Whitsome, and passes through Swinton in a westerly direction, to fall, after a course of ten or eleven miles, into the Tweed at Coldstream. Geology and Mineralogy. — The whole parish forms part of the new red sandstone formation, which may be traced throughout a considerable portion of the Merse or lower district of Berwickshire. The rocks, disposed in strata which dip to the south, consist of white sandstone and a dark sandstone slate, with alternating beds of indu- rated marl. This arrangement appears to extend to the Tweed, and to rest immediately upon the coal formation of Northumberland ; it is interrupted, however, on the eastern boundary, by rocks, ap- parently of the coal formation, white sandstone disposed in hori- zontal strata, and containing calamite with impressions of salices. A coarse red micaceous sandstone, accompanied with a white va- riety, is quarried in several parts of the parish. The lower surface of this rock has not been reached, though it has been bored to the depth of thirty fathoms. Tlie boulders, or loose minerals which occur in the fields, be- sides sandstone, are of greywacke and transition granite and green- stone, which appear to have been conveyed from the hills to the north of Dunse, a distance of about eight miles. The soil is in general deep and very productive; but as it lies upon a strong impervious clay, it is liable, where drains do not prevent, to be wet or almost miry during long-continued rains in winter, and in dry summers it has sometimes suffered severely from want of moisture. Botany. — Though not rich in a botanical sense, the parish pos- sesses several interesting plants. Among the rarer and more beautiful are the Senecio tenuifoliiis^ * the Alisma ranunculoides, the Cerastium arvense^ Lythnim salicaria^ Hyoscyamus niger^ LaC" tuca virosttj Solanum dulcamara^ Trollius EiiropiBus^ Typha lati~ folia^ Cnidium Solaris^ Spergula nodosa^ Arum jfiaculatunij Berberis vulgaris^ Rumex sanguineus^ Tormentilla reptansj Plantago mari^ tima. Ranunculus arvensis, Pamassia palustris, Leontodon palus^ trcj Lysimachia vulgaris^ and Galium horeale. Of the mosses the Bryum ligulatum has been collected on fine fruit, and the felices are the common Aspidium felix mas. Nonatural wood is to befoundin the parish; but the planted wood, • This plnnt, gathered in this parish, was added to the British Flora, a few years «go> hy the Rev. Air Baird of Cockburnspath. 3 SWINTON AND SIMPRIN. 189 which is of oak, ash, or elm, with a few firs, appears to be well adapted to the soil. There are some fine trees near Swinton- House, but the great proportion of the wood over the parish is not more than fifty or sixty years old. At the Restoration the whole of this property, forfeited to the Crown, came into the possession of the Duke of Lauderdale by a grant of Charles II. and conti- nued in his hands until the Revolution in 1688. Among other measures of spoliation he is said to have caused the whole of the wood upon the lands to be cut, excepting one tree, a beautiful and very large ash, which was blown down, between twenty and thirty years ago. As the most of the wood now growing has been planted along the hedge-rows, it shelters and adorns the fields, and gives a wooded appearance to the district greatly beyond the reality. II. — Civil History. Brief notices respecting the parish are met with in the border his- tories ; and from these, it would seem to have participated fully in the condition, both political and moral, of the tract of country in which it lies, during the long period of hostilities which extended with few interruptions from the time of its separation from the Saxon kingdom of Northumberland until its reunion with England. * The parish presents no natural impediment to an invading force, and it does not appear to have been ever protected by any considerable strong- hold, f The inhabitants, afflicted, therefore, by the precariousne3s which such an exposure implies, would soon become unsettled in their habits, disinclined to, as well as prevented from, the avoca- tions of regular industry, until they came, as a matter of course, to study not more retaliation than the means of support, in visit- ing upon their enemies evils which had blasted to. themselves the hopes of autumn, or had otherwise deprived them of advan- tages to which they might feel that they had a rightful claim. % * In one of the earliest notices which we have of Swinton, it seems to have lapsed from a state of culture, the condition probably in which it was under its last Nor- thumbrian monarch into a waste and desert state^^for which Edgar, son of Malcolm Canmore, presents it to Coldingham Abbey. He presents along with it txteniy- four beasU to till it anew. f The remains of a fosse, which can still be traced in the church-yard, are the only vestige now extant, of a state of warlike operations. X The last time that we hear of its having formed the scene of a hostile encoun- ter was on Whitsunday of 1558. Sir Henry Percy, brother to the Earl of Nor- thumberland, and the Marshal orBerwick, overran the Merse with 8000 foot, and 200 horse, burnt Dunse and Langton, and were overtaken at Swinton on their re- turn by the Scottish forces under the Lord Keith, son of the Earl Mareschal and by the French troops, who were lying at Kelso and Eyemouth, for the defence of the marches. After an obstinate engagement, the English made good their retreat with all their plunder— the Scottish troops being almost wholly slain, or made pri- soners. 190 BERWICKSHIRE. Such habits, when fully formed among a people, do not pass away immediately upon the removal of their causes, and it was not, therefore, until long after the union of the crowns, that the pro- ductive energies of this fine portion of Scotland appear to have begun to be adequately cultivated by a skilful and settled hus- bandry. Family ofSwinton. — But the most interesting fact connected with the civil history of this parish is that of its having formed, with only two very brief interruptions, the property of one f amity since the days of the Heptarchy^ till the present time. Authentic his- tory furnishes us with no account of the origin of the family of Swin- ton of Swinton. It is found in this place, and appears to have been in prior possession of it shortly after the incorporation of this district . with the kingdom of Scotland. About 1060, Edulf de Swinton, who had assisted Malcolm Canmore to recover the Scottish throne, obtained from that monarch a confirmation of the property of the whole parish of Swinton, by one of the first charters granted io Scotland, and which is still preserved in the Archives of Durham. The estate seems after this to have been alienated from the fa- mily during the period of the reigns of Edgar and Alexander, his sons, as each of these sovereigns present the lands of Swinton to Coldingham priory. * It was restored to them, however, by the youngest son of Malcolm — David, who grants two charters in their favour of the lands of Swinton, " to be held as freely as any baron held theirs." f Of the succeeding members of the family, several are mention- ed with distinction by the English and Scottish chroniclers. To the valour of % Sir John Swinton in particular, Fordun chiefly * It may be regarded as a proof of the strong right which is founded upon long possession, that the church had to give up this property. They would seem indee£ never to have had undisturbed possession of it — for Alexander in 1 107 along with his confirmation to St Cuthbert and his monks, of the whole lands of Swinton, for- bids the prior and monks of Durham to answer in any placs relating to these laiid», unless in his presence and by his orders. — Bedc, Hist,, Smith\ ^ppcndiv iK). t Anderson's Inquiry, Chart. Durham. A stone statue of Allan Swinton, the fifth baron, lies in an arched open niche of the south wall of the parish church, on the right hand of the pulpit with this inscription : ** Hie jacet Alanus Swinton miles de Eodcm." This Allan is witness to a deed by Patrick Earl of March, to Nisbet of Dirleton, and to several by William the Lion. X I'herc is in Rymer, (1400) a safe conduct to this Sir John and his retinue for coming to the presence of Henry II., then in the north. He seems to have been disgusted at the undue power which Douglas enjoyed, and to have intended to join in the defection of the Earl of March, who had transferred his allegiance to the Eng- Ibh king, in consequence of the breaking off of the match between his daughter and the Duke of Hothsay, in order to prefer the daughter of his rival, Douglas. Sir J. Swinton had either not effected this journey, or he had speedily withdrawn his ho- mage — for his death at Hamilton took place two years after. 4 SWINTON AND SIMPRIN. 191 attributes the victory at Otterbum ; and his heroic death at the battle of Hamildon, after having vainly endeavoured to restore order among the Scottish troops, has furnished Sir W. Scott, (himself a relation of the family,) with the subject of his drama- tic sketch of " Halidon Hill" This Sir John married a daugh- ter of King Robert II., and his son by that lady appears to have signalized his prowess in the wars of France. He is mentioned as having unhorsed the Duke of Clarence, brother to Henry V. at the battle of Berranger. In Rymer, there is the bond of a Sir John Swinton, who, with many others, engages at Edinburgh to assist the king (James VL) against the Earls of Bothwell and Hume, and all who aided and abetted their rebellion. During the reign of Charles I., the proprietor of Swinton sup- ported the side of the Parliament, and enjoyed subsequently the favour and confidence of Cromwell, having been appointed by him, upon the arrangement of Scottish affairs, a privy-councillor and a commissioner for the administration of justice. At the restora- tion, he was accused of having borne arms against the king in the battle of Worcester, and on this charge, though unsupported by evidence, his estate was forfeited, and he was driven, with his fa- mily, into exile. His son returned at the Revolution in 1688^ and obtained shortly afterwards an act of Parliament rescinding his for- feiture, and restoring to him the lands of Swinton " per modum justidcB^" — of which his descendants have since enjoyed the un- disturbed possession Among the modern proprietors of the estate of Swinton, we are called upon to notice particularly the grandfather of the late pos- sessor, John Swinton, Esq. for some time sheriff of Perthshire, and afterwards one of the Senators of the College of Justice. The country is indebted to Lord Swinton's suggestion for the divi- sion of the Court of Session into two separate chambers. He was a zealous and influential advocate for the introduction into Scot- land of trial by jury in civil causes; he was the originator of the small debt court ; he gave to the world an accurate and useful abridgement of British statutes since the Union ; and it is the cu- rious and valuable information on weights and measures, which he published in his elaborate treatise upon that subject, which forms the basis of the late act of Parliament for effecting their uniformity throughout the kingdom. To his professional and literary attain- 192 BERWICKSHIRE. ments, Lord Swinton added a thorough knowledge of country busi- ness, and was distinguished by activity and benevolence of character. It is a remarkable fact, especially when we keep in mind the in- secure state of this portion of the country for many ages^ that the estate of Swinton has descended lineaUy from father to son for not less than 27 generations, comprising a period of almost 800 years. It is now in the possession of Samuel Swinton, Esq. a nephew of the late Lord Swinton, who, by draining to a laige extent, and other judicious measures, has greatly improved the property, while he has shown himself most solicitous to promote the comfort and well-being of the labouring poor. Other Land-owners. — The parish of Simprin also appears, until very lately, to have been in the possession of an old and powerful family, Cockburn of Langton; but as they do not seem ever to have had a place of residence within its bounds, it may be improper to enter upon their history in this statement. The lands of Simprio were sold, in consequence of their affairs having fallen into disorder, in 1755, to Lord Elibank, and are now the property of Patrick Murray, Esq. of Simprin. There are two other proprietors in the parish, Henry Sejnnour, Esq. of Handford, and Admiral Halket of Delgaddo. Parochial Registers, — Simprin was, from 1699, until his transla- tion to Etterick in 1707, under the ministerial charge of the Rev. Thomas Boston, — a name deservedly dear to the people of Scot^ land.* The session register of Simprin, commencing 21st September 1699, (the day of Mr Boston's ordination,) and continued during Mr Boston's incumbency, is still in preservation, and is wholly in Mr Boston's own handwriting: that of Swinton commences on the 29th April 1696, and extends, in respect to the records of ses- sional business, to 1711, and in respect to baptisms, to the present day, excepting the short space of ten months in 1760. No regu- lar register of marriages and deaths appears to have been kept un- til about seventeen years ago. III. — Population. Mr Boston found 88 examinable persons in Simprin upon his induction to that parish in 1699. In 1751, the population of the • ( Vide Etterick. ) The manse, which was built for Boston after hb induction, was still standing a few years ago ; but the church, which appears to have been very small, has long been in ruins. Simprin Uirge bam, mentioned in the former Statia- tical Account, appears, from his session record, to have been used regularly by Mr Boston upon sacramental and other extraordinary occasions. SWINTON AND SIMPUIN. 193 parish of Swinton amounted to 351, and of Simprin to 143. Since that time, the population of Simprin has decreased considerably, and is now limited to the number which is required for the cultiva- tion of the soil. In 1791, the population of the conjoined parishes amounted to 898, shewing an increase, since 1755, of 404. Dur- ing this, or rather the latter half of this period, the land was regu- larly subdivided, and its present agricultural system entered upon. To this important chdnge in the state and management of the soil, and the wants which it created, the extraordinary increase in the population is to be attributed. In 1811, the population amounted to 866; in 1821, 919; in 1831, 971, of whom 460 were males, and 511 females. The increase of the population since 1791 is inconsiderable, and may be accounted for partly by the* enlargement of the village of Swinton, which affords accommodation to coal-carters and others, not strictly dependent for their support upon the land of the parish, and partly by the additional labourers required for a more careful husbandry. The number of inhabitants in the village of Swinton is 450, the remaining 520 being in all respects a country and agricultural po- pulation. 1. Number of fiunilies in the parish, - ... 218* of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 84 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 53 2. Number of unmarried men, widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, - 14 of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, - 62 33 of these being widows. 3. The average number of births yearly, for the last 5 years, . - 26 deaths, - - . - . II marriage, - • • . 7f 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - - 370 upwards of 70, - - • 38 There is one instance in the parish of insanity ; one individual is fatuous, and one is deaf and dumb. Character and Habits of the People. — There are no customs, games, or amusements, which can be mentioned as peculiar to the parish or the district. Occasional trials of strength or skill * The number of families stated in the abstract of the Government census is 2SB, and no bachelors. f The averages of deaths and marriages may be incorrect, as individuals dying in the parish are often buried in other parishes ; while persons not connected with it, but whose forefathers or relations are buried there, are brought sometimes from a distance to occupy their cemeteries. The number of marriages also cannot be easily ascer- tained, as a large portion of them are irr^^larly contracted at Coldstream, or at some other place on the border of the two kingdoms. BERWICK. N 194 BERWICKSHIRE. among the young men form the only portion of their outdoor diver- sions which seems entitled to be regarded with any interest ; but it is an important fact, that much of the time which used to be spent formerly by our peasantry in such, or in far less commend- able pastimes, is now regularly, or at least chiefly, devoted to read- ing. The people are generaUy sober, industrious, and fnigaL IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The parish contains about 5383 acres under a regular system of culti\'ation, and 65 or 70 acres which still lie waste, or are in pasture, but which might be added to the cultivated land with a profitable application of capital. There is no land unappropriated, and only about 25 acres under wood, which has been planted. Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land per acre is Sis., and the average rent of grazing is at the rate of L. 3^ 10s. for an ox or cow, and 10s. 6d. for a Leicester ewe or full-grown sheep. The real rent of the parish is about L. 8000. Raie of Wages. — The rate of wages, winter and sununer, for farm-labourers, may be stated at 10s., and for country artisans, about 14s. for the week. Husbandry. — The husbandry pursued in the parish is of the most liberal and enlightened description. Draining has, for a con- siderable time, met with the attention which, owing to the nature of the soil, it requires; but this important improvement may still in several places be carried profitably to a greater extent The farm- buildings and enclosures are generally in good order, and suitable to the extent of the farms. The only improvement of any general importance which has re- cently been effected, is the deepening and widening of the bed of the Leet^ which used to overflow its banks occasionally, to the great injury of the contiguous grounds, as, from its being almost quite level, the water became stagnant upon it in many places. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is stated under the fol- lowing heads : Produce of grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man or the domestic animals. * * Flax has been little cultivated in this parish for several years past. It is the cus- tom in most parts of the country to allow every married farm-servant or hind tlic tenth part of an acre, to be sowed with flax-seed. The flax, with the exception of the weaving, was all manufactured at home for the use of their families. Now, owing to the low price of linen, they generally plant patatoes on that ground. 8WINT0N AND SIMPRIN. 195 Acres. Bolls. 781 wheat, 3272 at L. I, 198. 10^'gd. - - L.()520 2 10 319 barley, 1918 — 1, 3s. 10 ^d. . 2288 5 7 1066 oats 6445 — 0, ISs. 8^d. . 6019 16 2J 225 pease, 955 — 1, 7s, 6^gd. - - 1314 2 4^ 2390 12690 L. 16142 7 yote.-^The above estimate is by the boll of six imperial bushels for all descriptions of grain. The prices are the average fiars prices of the last ten years, proportioned to the imperial measure, the fiars of Ber- wickshire having only been struck for the last four years by that standard. As there is little hay raised for sale, the value is included in the estimated produce of grass land. Produce of potatoes and turnips. 64 acres of potatoes, horn. L. 7, 7s. to L. 9 per acre, L. 546 6 253 do. turnips, . . 1255 1801 6 Produce of land in pasture, rating it at L. 3, lOs. per cow, or full- grown ox grazed, or that may be grazed for the season, and at 10s. 6d. per full-grown sheep pastured for the year. There are about 1928 acres of old and new grass, including the quantity made an- nually into hay, and consumed on the difierent farms, • 3313 11 Produce of gardens and orchards, &c. There is not a market-gar- den in the parish. On one estate there is an orchard of about three acres, which is let along with the farm in which it lies ; the trees are very old, and not productive, but it may be worth, an- nually, -- - - - - 10 00 Produce of the annual thinning and periodical felling of woods, cop- ses, plantations, &c. - - - . 1500 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, - L. 21282 4 V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — There are about eight miles of turn- pike road in the parish, but not travelled by any public carriages; and there are three bridges. The roads are excellent, and com- pletely fenced, and the bridges, (one of which has been lately built,) are in a good condition. Ecclesiastical State. — From the small extent of the parish, the church, though placed rather too near to its north-east corner, is quite convenient for the whole of the inhabitants. It was built in 1729, — an aisle was added to it by the feuars of the village, for their own accommodation, in 1782, — ^and it is still in tolerable repair. It is seated to accommodate 400 persons, and there are no free sit- tings. It holds, however, considerably more than that number, and from fifty to seventy persons are regularly supplied with seats in the passage. The manse was built in 1771, and has been several times re- paired. In 1815, when it was last repaired, a considerable addi- tion also was made to it. 196 BERWICKSHIRE. The united glebe of Swinton and Simprin extends to twenty-one acres, of the annual value of I^ 63, or thereby. ��� The stipend of the parish amounts to sixteen chalders, half barley and half oats. There are no Dissenting, or Seceding, or Episcopalian, or Ro- man Catholic chapels in this parish. A very few families, twenty-five in number, are connected with the Secession ; but the great body of the parishioners attend the Established church, — the number of communicants at which varies from 440 to 470. Education. — There are two schools in the parish, — the one the parochial school, and the other unendowed.* The usual branches of education may be obtained at the parochial school ; and it may be noticed, that the teacher is Mr Strahan, the joint editor, with Mr Dickinson and Dr Smith, of Sleusner's Greek Lexicon. Reading, writing, arithmetic, and mathematics are taught at the unendowed schools. The schoolmaster of the parochial school has the maximum sa- lary, and his school-fees may amount to L. 20 or L. 30. He is in the enjoyment of all the legal accommodations. The charge for education per month is, — English reading. Is.; reading and writing, Is. 4d. ; arithmetic, 2s.; Latin, 2s. lOd. ; Greek and I^tin, 3s. 8d. ; book-keeping, 3 sets, L 1, 10s. ; Na- vigation, L. 1, 10s. ; Algebra, L 2, 2s. None of the children who have reached the age of 15 are unable to write. Parents, in gene- ral, are sensible of the advantages of education ; and as there are no parts of the parish so distant from the school as to prevent the attendance of healthy children at any season of the year, the young are, as a matter of course, instructed regularly to read and write, and commonly also in arithmetic. Friendly Societies. — There is one male friendly society. It has existed forty years, and has been attended with the best effects. By protecting and encouraging habits of sobriety and industry, and fostering, therefore, a spirit of independence, as well as by the di- rect relief which it occasionally affords, it has contributed more than any thing else to keep down the amount of paupers on our poors* roll. For the last five years, the income of this society has considerably exceeded its expenditure, the former being L45, 12s. O^d., and the latter only L. 30, 17s. 8|d. The entry * There are two Sabbath evening schools also, connected with the Sabbath School Union. One, which meets in the church, is attended by 100 children, and conducted by five teachers. The other is attended by 20 children, and is under the superinten- dence of one teacher. SWINTON AND SIMPUIN. 197 money, upon becoming a member is 5s,,* and the contribution Is. 6d. per quarter. The sick or lame, if they have been four years in the society, draw 5s. per week for the first three months, — 2s. 6d. for the second three months, and afterwards, while they may need support, Is. 6d. Upon the death of a member, L. 3 are allowed for funeral expenses, and upon his wife's decease, if she has remained a widow, L.2. If sickness &c can be proved to have originated in irregular conduct, the individual is excluded from the benefit of the society. Poor and Parochial Funds* — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 38, and the average sum per week al- lotted to each is about 2s. It varies, according to their ciroum- stances, from Is. to 2s. 6d., and in a few instances to 3s. The average annual amount of regular church collections is L. 34, and the only other means of providing for the poor is by a re- gular assessment, which has long obtained in this, as in all the con- tiguous parishes. The amount of the assessment for the last year in this parish was greater than usual, — being L. 227, 18s. 4^d. There is an unwillingness manifested by some of the poor to make application for parochial relief; but this is not the common feeling. As in other places, when there has long been a com- pulsory provision for paupers, this resource has ceased to be regard- ed generally as degrading. Fairs. — There are two fairs held annually in the village of Swin- ton, — the one in June, and the other in October. Originally these fairs formed a market for cattle and agricultural produce, but they do not now answer that end. Inn. — There is only one inn in the parish. It is in the vil- lage. The accommodations are superior, and it is required as a place of stay and refreshment on the public road from Berwick, which passes through the village. Fuel. — Coal is almost the only description of fuel used. It is procured in Northumberland, from a distance of ten miles, and sells in Swinton at the rate of about 18s. per ton. Miscellaneous Observations. Though no important improvement, not then commenced, seems to have been efiected in this parish since the period of the last Statistical Account, there are perhaps few parishes which have * This entry money after 25 years of age increases 2s.,— after 30, %.» till 40, when admission ceases. 198 BERWICKSHIRE. experienced in so short a time a more complete or more gratifying change. The subdivision of the land, indeed, was completed by that time, and the population located as at present ; but the science of husbandry, then only in its infancy, has now been matured, — the fences and the trees planted along them have grown up, and are highly ornamental, — drains have rendered the land firm and pro- ductive in places where they were then only banning to take effect, — the roads, which are mentioned in the last Account as being ^^ deep, miry, and almost impassable," are now of the very best de- scription. To no class of individuals could the warm terms in which the intelligence and general worth of the farmers of that day are mentioned, be applied with greater justice than to those who now occupy their places. Nor is there any where to be found a more intelligent, moral, and well ordered peasantry than our own agricultural population. Revised Auffust 1834. PARISH OF COLDSTREAM. PRESBYTERY OF CHIRNSIDE, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TIVIOTDALE. THE REV. THOMAS SMITH GOLDIE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Namcj Boundaries. — The original name of the parish of Cold- stream was Lennal. It is found in ancient charters written in the various forms of Leinhall, Lenhal, Leinal, Lennal, and^Lennel. The kirk'town of Lennel stood on the north bank of ther Tweed, which at that place forms a pool, or Llyn, as it is termed in the Cambro- British dialect When the Saxon settlers took posses- sien of the vale of the Tweed, they added to the original name their own term Hal^ which signifies a large house, and thus was formed the name Leinhall^ which is to be met with in deeds as early as 1147. The church of Leinhall continued in the possession of the Prioress of Coldstream, till the period of the Reformation, and retained its original name for a century and a-half after that epoch. The original village was destroyed by the English in their preda- tory incursions ; and in 171 6 a new parish church was built at Cold- stream, which was then becoming the most populous district of the parish. The parish extends 7^ miles in length, and somewhat more than 4 in breadth ; it is of an irregular rectangular shape, and has the parish of Ladykirk for its boundary on the east ; Simprin, now united to Swinton, on the north; Eccles on the west; while Tweed separates it from England on the south. Topographical Appearances. — The general appearance of the parish is flat, and there is no rising ground that deserves the name of hill. Five-burn-mill toll-bar is 108 feet above Berwick pier, Coldstream bridge is 61 feet, and Hatchednize 188 feet above the same level. Dovecotamins is considerably higher than any of these places. Meteorology. — The quantity of rain that falls in this parish is comparatively inconsiderable. The situation of the parish, in re- ference to the direction and distance of the neighbouring hills, ma^ 200 BKRWICKSHIRE. account for this circumstance : for as the Lammennoor and Che- viot ranges towards their eastern extremities are equally distant from Coldstream on the north and south, but convei^ and umte towards the west, the clouds, attracted by these several mountains^ frequently separate, and either discharge their moisture on diem, or follow their respective ranges, leaving tlie intervening* districts dry. Accordingly, when the barometer in this district falls, indicating the presence or approach of rainy weather, the result often is, not showers of long continuance, but floods in the rivers, which flow from the adjoining hills. Although this parish is not very subject to thunder storms, yet on several occasions the peculiar phenomenon of €ucending light- nimj has been observed.* The prevailing winds are the south-wes- terly; but that which is generally accomi>anied by bad weather blows from Lambcrton-hill, or from the north-easterly direction. From the lowness of its level, Coldstream is in a considerable de- gree exempt from rain and cold, while its distance from the coast is so great, that it does not suffer much from the scourging influence of the easterly blast ; and hence the climate is milder than that of most other parishes. Climate, — The improvements in agriculture, particularly the very extensive and efficient system of draining that has been car- ried on, have done much to ameliorate the climate, so that ague, which at one time was very prevalent, is now unknown in the parish, except at tlie farm of Hatched nize, which is in the vicinity of Lith- tillum I^ch, and where there is a dirty, stagnant pool, the level of which is above that of the neighbouring cottages. Hydrography, — With the exception of a lake almost entirely artificial in the grounds of Hirsel, there is no sheet of water deser\'- ing the name, — several which are referred to in the titles of the Snook Barony having entirely disappeared. The temperature of springs in the month of October is about 48^ Fahrenheit. The only streams which take tlieir rise in the parish are Gra- den-burn and the Shiells-burn, which join the Tweed near the eastern extremity. The Leet, another tributary of the same river, flows in a southerly direction for more than half its course through the parish, while the Tweed forms its southern boundary. From its liability to great and sudden floods, the Tweed seldom remains • See an account published in the Philosophical Transactions of London, of a re- markable thunder storm which occurred in 1785; and in which a man driving his cart in this parish was killed by lightning ruling from the ground. COLDSTREAM. 201 long frozen ; but often great damage is done to the banks, as well as to bridges and trees, by the sudden breaking up of its icy barrier. The accumulation of alluvial soil being greater towards its mouth, the rapidity of the river is of course there not so great as in Cold- stream parish, where, for the same reason, it is less than nearer its source. To this circumstance may probably be ascribed the fact, that there are no water-mills to be found lower down the river than Tweed-mill, about three miles below the town of Coldstream ; for on account of the constant liability of the Tweed itself to rise and fall by floods, mill-leads are absolutely necessary, which, to give a proper fall, must be longer and more expensive, wherever the slope of the main channel is inconsiderable. Geology and Mineralogy. — The particular formation to which the strata of this as well as of the neighbouring parishes belong is still a subject of doubt and farther inquiry. The mineralogical characters of its marls and soft red variegated sandstones, contain- ing, as they do in several parts, imbedded nodules and veins of gypsum, have led some to refer them to the new red sandstone se- ries, which is known to lie in other places considerably above the coal-field. Whilst, on the other hand, the apparent geological position of these rocks, and the occurrence of extensive fossil re- mains both in the sandstones and clay beds of the district, have induced others to consider them as subordinate to the carboniferous limestone, which is far below the coal-field. The strata which are prevalent in this parish are the following, and we name them in the order in which they seem to be most abundant: 1. White sandstone; 2. Clay marl; 3. Reddish sand- stone; 4. Limestone; 5. Gypsum. 1. White sandstone is visible, and may be found chiefly, in the south parts of the parish. It runs in an E. N. E. and W. S. W, direction, crossing the Tweed a little below Fireburn-mill, and runnincr down the north side of the Tweed towards Milne Graden. The line may be traced for many miles farther; and it forms a high cliff* on the banks of the Whitadder, below Claribad-mill. This white sandstone, being an excellent building stone, is worked in several parts of its course through Coldstream parish. It is quarried immediately to the north of the town of Colstream, as well as on Leet water on the west side of the town, and also on the Tweed, between the town and Coldstream-bridge. It is work- ed also near Lennel church, and again on Sir D. Milne's property, at the eastern extremity of the parish. The colour of the stone 202 UKRWICKSHIRE. is n dusky-white. In texture it is compact, and does not readily yield to the weather. Of this stone, Sir D. Milne built his man- sion-house on his estate of Milne Graden. The clefgymaii's manse, and several other neat dwelling-houses in the town of Cold- stream, are built of the same material 2. Perhaps, of the whole strata visible at the surface of Cold- stream parish, three-fourths are composed of clay and marL He thickness of the beds is generally inconsiderable, though in some places it may be twenty or thirty feet. It is used in some parts, where it is more calcareous than in others, for spreading over the soil ; but the quantity of carbonate of lime in it is so trifling that very little benefit can be derivcki from the practice. 3. The reddish sandstone, which, after the white sandstone and marl strata, is the most abundant rock in the parish, lies to the north of the wliite sandstone, and parallel with it and under it. The line probably runs through the Leet, (about a mile above Cold- stream,) Hirsel Law, and Simprin. It is quarried on the banks of the Leet, on the south side of Simprin farm, and still farther to the east ; but at the intermediate points it does not seem to have been sought for. There is another stratum of the same reddish sandstone still farther north, and running in the same direction as the former. To the east of Balchristie it may be seen crossing the Leet, where it is worked ; and again at Hawkslaw. This last kind of stone Ls used chiefly for drains, walls, and other farm purposes. 4. The limestone which occurs in the district is rather an in- durated marl than the compact calcareous rock, which is worked as such in the coal measures and carboniferous limestone forma- tion. It consists of beds, which seldom exceed two feet, and are usually only three or four inches in thickness, alternating with the clay and marl. We have not heard of its ever having been burnt for economical purj)oses, though the same kind of rock was burnt a good many years ago at Marchmont in Polwarth parish. The whole of the strata above-described dip towards the S. E. under an angle not greater than 10^ Nearer the Lammermoor hills, the strata begin to rise with a greater angle, till at last, at the base of the hills, they are seen to rest on the greywacke series. 5. The gjpsum has been found in this parish only in small quantities. On the banks of the Leet, about half a-mile below the house of the Hirsel, it occurs in red nodules imbedded in the 4 COLDSTREAM. 203 blue clay ; and at Milne Graden, where coal was bored for some years since by Sir D. Milne, seams or thin veins of white gypsum were discovered in a similar situation. A considerable variety of fossil organic remains has been found buried and preserved among the strata of this district. These fos- sils consist both of vegetable impressions and entire stems. The former are found both in the sandstone, (chiefly the yellowish or reddish kind,) and sometimes in the thin beds of limestone or in- durated marl. The species to which these vegetable impressions belong are generally the same as those found in the coal-field and mountain limestone groups, such as equiseta, c^amites, and lycopodites ; but the impressions hitherto observed appear to be smaller and less frequent than in the other formations alluded to. The discovery of the other and more interesting fossil remains, is in a great measure due to Henry Witham, Esq. of Lartington, whose zealous exertions in the cause of geology cannot be too highly commended, or too generally followed as an example. Though known to a few of the natives of the parish, who were accustomed to frequent the banks of the river seeking pebbles, these trees were never properly examined, till Mr Witham under- took the task. — But before stating the result of his investigations, we may mention the locality and position in which they are found. About half a-mile above Tweed-mill, on the north bank of the river, and near the water's edge, is a stratum of blue clay, which rises with an angle of about 5*^ towards the N. W. This stratum, near the river's edge, is surmounted by a bank probably 80 or 100 feet high, composed of alluvial soil, and various seams of sandstone, marl, and coarse limestone. Below the stratum is a thin seam of limestone. The stratum of clay in which the fossils are imbedded may be five or six feet in depth. Some of the stems are about the thickness of a man's body, but generally they are one-half of this size. No fragment has been found exceeding four or five feet in length. They are all lying disjointed and parallel with the bed, showing that they must have originally been deposited in a hori- zontal position. No small twigs or branches (far less leaves) are preserved. These trees are encrusted almost always with a black carbona- ceous matter resembling coal, which is of no greater thickness than what may have been that of the original bark. In short, this black envelope of coal seems to be the bark mineralized. When thrown into the fire, it burns clearly and rapidly. So 204 HKUWICKSHIRE. far as we know there has been no chemical analysis of this coaly envelope. The following is the analysis of a tree found at the place now spoken of, taken from Mr Witham's paper :• Carbo- nate of lime, 78; peroxide of iron, 17; protoxide of iron, 13; loss, 2=100 parts. The prevalence of lime in these petrifactions is usually ac- counted for by the gradual introduction of calcareous matter into the tree, (from the calcareous clay enveloping it,) as the internal parts decayed ; and we know that, on account of the greater dura- bility of the bark, the interior of a tree generally decays first. To such an extent have the decay and destruction of the ligneous parts taken place, and so complete has been the intrusion of cal- careous matter, that these fossil trees consist almost entirely of carbonate of lime, and very little of the woody fibre remains. It is of course chiefly by the examination of the remanent fibres that any hopes could be entertained of detecting the nature of these fossils. Recent investigations, for the commencement of which we are also in this respect indebted to Mr Witham, have proved that they belong to the genus Coniferae, to which class our Scotch firs belong. It was for a long time supposed that the lai^r fossil vegetables, now and then discovered in our coal-fields, were palms. But a transverse section of the palm tree shows no appear- ance of small reticulated fibres, or pith, or medullary rays, or concen- tricrings, (denoting the annual growths) such as those observed in sections of the Tweed-mill fossils. The interior of a palm consists only of a cellular tissue, with vascular fibres, having neither medullary rays nor concentric rings. And in the appearances thusexhibited by these fossils, there is a complete resemblance to various species of Conifera? now existing. There is only one point of difference, viz. the greater size in the fossils of the fibrous cells and extent of the annual growths, — facts attributable to the more favourable combi- nation of heat and moisture, which operated on the Flora of a for- mer period. This result of an internal examination of these fossils is* fully confirmed by their external appearance. For, besides that many of the stems appear twisted and otherwise irregular in their shape, (like the Coniferae of the present epoch) many of them bear the remains of branches, such as are never met with in palms. It has not yet been positively determined whether these trees have grown originally in the district where they are now deposited. In • Transactions of Newcastle Pliil. Soc. \'ol. i. COLDSTREAM. 205 Other cases, this point can be determined by the presence of small twigs and leaves, which could not have been transported by water or otherwise without being destroyed. So far, therefore, as the non-appearance of these more delicate remains is any warrantable ground of inference, it is probable that the fossil trees at Tweed- mill may have been transported to their present site by water, being much in the same state as those immense accumulations of trees deposited at the mouths of the great American rivers. The extent of this fossil deposit has not been yet fully as- certained. It is only at the bank of the river where it is worn down by the action of the floods that they have been observed ; but it may be observed, that similar fossils have been noticed in other parts of the Tweed, both below Coldstream Bridge, and about Fireburn-mill, as well as in more distant parts of the county. The simple minerals are few in number Quartz crystals, cal- careous crystals, prehnite, in rolled pebbles in the channels of the Tweed, selenite, or sulphate of lime, (the latter daily forming in the marl beds,) are all that need here be noticed. There seem to be in this parish two kinds of alluvial deposit^ covering the strata wherever a proper section can be seen. The lower and thicker deposit, which is composed of clay, is farther characterized by large boulders imbedded in it, which are gene- rally greenstone, basalt, or old red sandstone. This deposit is probably of diluvian origin. The upper alluvion, which is gene- rally not more than two or three feet deep, consists principally of small-grained gravel intermixed with sand. That both of these deposits have been formed by water there can be no doubt; and as little doubt, that the violence of the currents which tran- sported the boulders, and formed the lower deposit, must have been much greater than that by which the upper subsoil was formed. It may be observed as a curious fact, that wherever the soil is turned up beyond a depth of three or four feet, immense quan- tities of thistles immediately spring up, and flourish in wild luxuriance. It is natural to suppose, (though the fact has not been positively ascertained,) that these plants can spring only from seed long since buried in the soil. But the question comes to be, how they could have been buried at such a depth? The seed, as they fall from their capsules, could not have sunk to that depth in the soil. How then can the fact be explained ? The 20(; llEltWlCKSHlRE. only explanation which has occurred to us is the following: ' natural effect of rains on the surCoce of a country is to wash d soil from the hills, and thus gradually fill the rallies and < vale the plains. May not the seed of plants have in this u ner often been overwhelmed and buried so deeply in the soil a be prevented from vegetating ? This efTect, we can see, mighi easily produced by sudden floods, at a period when the rivers I not yet furrowed tlieir way deeply into the earth's surface. us suppose that the low plains of the Pampas in South Amer which are a wilderness of thistles, were to be overwhelmed n occasional floods, which should deposit a stratum of mud o them. The effect would of course be to bury the seeds such a depth, as to render the process of vegetation, for which i influence of the air is needed, impossible. At a future peri' when cultivation begins to adorn these dreary regions, postei will perhaps wonder, on digging into the soil, to see myriads thistles immediately rush into existence. "Zoology. — Many species of wild-fowl, which formerly frequent the Tweed, have entirely disappeared, — such as the coot, wi duck, diver, and teal. This is to be accounted for, partly from I greater population on the banks of the river, partly from the f quency of poaching in the river for salmon, and partly fn the drainage of those marshy lands in which these birds used breed. Swallows, likewise, are by no means so numerous as th once were, which may be referred to the same cause, as insec such as those on which they feed, are much more plentiful marshy or fenny districts. Wild-swans have been shot in the [ rish ; and a gentleman some years ago succeeded in killing a grc northern diver from Hudson's Bay. A very fine specimen of nig heron (Ardea ni/cticorax,) was shot a few years ago by the E( of Home, by whom it was presented to the Museum of the Edi burgh University. Pike of a very large size, sometimes weighii upwards of 02 lbs. are caught in the lake at Hirsel ; and the Ei of Home killed a salmon which weighed 50 lbs. Botany. — In a district so highly cultivated, it is not to be e: pccted that the botanist will And much to interest him, or enga^ his attention. Indeed, were it not for the Tweed and the Lee — the lakes of Hirsel and Lithtillum, — with some at present ui cultivated ground in the north of the parish, we should be afrai that the few plants that we have left would disappear. Lacttu viroM, which has of late got much into repute for medicinal pin poses, is foimd in ahimdance on the steep bauks of the IVeot COLDSTREAM. 207 below the old church of LenneL JBmri$ mmara, and Senecio tenuis folius^ have likewise been found, althoi^ not mentioned in any Flora of the district. Tragopagon majus^ which has been only re- cently noticed as a native of this country, is found in the Ifirsel grounds, and near Lennel-hill. It is distinguished from the com- mon species (T. pratemey) by the calyx being longer than the ray of the corolla, — by the peduncles, in place of tapering, becoming thicker above, — and by the smaller and more delicate habit of the plant I have been furnished, by a very skilful and enthusiastic bota- nist, (Dr John Hutton Balfour,) with a list of the Phenogamic and Cryptogamic plants, of which he enumerates 697 different species. * From the retentive nature of the soil, the larch does not thrive so well as in other districts ; but Che oak, birch, and elm, thrive well, — some being found on the estate of Milne Graden above eleven feet in circumference. There are extensive plantations of very thriving timber on the estate of Hirsel, a large proportion of which has been planted by the present Earl of Home. II. — Civil History. Antiquities. — Stone coffins have been found in different parts of the parish, and likewise great quantities of human bones, par- ticularly in the grounds of Hirsel, and at the junction of the Tweed and Leet, where the Abbey was situate. These are, in all proba- bility, the ashes of men who were distinguished for noble birth and for military prowess, as it is matter of historical record, that the Lady Abbess had the bodies of the most distinguished warriors who fell on the disastrous field of Flodden conveyed to Coldstream, and interred in the burial-ground of the abbey. There are still to be found on the barony of Snook the remains of a fortification, which was probably constructed after the use of cannon. Tradition speaks of Maxwell's Cross, which stood about a century ago, be- tween Lennel church and Tweed-mill, f It is well known that General Monk, before the restoration of Charles IL, raised here the regiment of foot^guards which still bears the name of the parish. Parochial Registers, — The parish records, the earliest of which is dated 1690, and which have been all along kept with accuracy, prove the existence of villages, of which not a vestige now remains. * Tlie list is inserted in the MS. *f A few years agO} several old coins were discovered at Milne Graden, chiefly Scotch, struck in the reign of the James*. They are now in Mr Milne's possessaUnv. «J08 lUlUWlCKSHIHE. Mention is made of Gradcn, situate in the N. £. part of the pi^ rish, which probably contained about forty families. There was also the village of Parkend, hardly less considerable in size, about half a century ago; and it is well known that there was once a consi- derable village beside the old church of Lennel, although nothing but the ruins of the church remain to mark the site of the village. Eminent Men, — Within the walls of that church is the burying- placc of Patrick Brydone, Esq. author of a Tour in Sicily and Malta, who resided for many years in Lennel House, the seat of the Karl of Haddington. Modern Buildings. — After Mr Brj'done's death, a new mansion was erected by the noble proprietor; besides which, there are the seats of the Earl of Home at the Hirsel; Sir William Marjori- banks at the Lees ; Sir David Milne at Milne Graden ; and Pro- fessor Russell at Castlelaw ; — all built of freestone, of wliich there are quarries of excellent quality in different parts of the parish. III. — POPILATION. ropulation in JHOl, . - - 2269 ISII, . - - 2.384 18J1, . - . 2901 While the villages of Graden, Snook, and Parkend existed, the population was much more diffused over the parish than at present. By a list of the population, taken with great care in 1830, it ap- pears, that in the landward part there were 192 families, and in the town 504 ; while in 178G, there were 189 and 305 families in these respectively. By that list, the whole population of the parish was ♦3003, which is upwards of 100 more tlian appears by the census of 18:31. The number resident in the town was found to be 2020, and in the country 98^3. It is impossible to give any correct statement of the average number of births in the parish each year, as scarcely any of the dissenters think of inserting the birtlis of their children in the pa- rish register, — though the fees of registration are very trifling, and in ciises of poverty, not exacted. But the average number of births that have been registered during the last seven years is 40; of marriages in the same time, 21 ; of deaths, 54. Ihe iiunibc'r of families in the parish is .... QfQ of families chiefly ein])loycxw««t^'*^ ^^ 234 BERWICKSHIRE. notice here. In the midst of the village are two thorn trees nea to each other ; round these every newly married pair were expeci ed to dance with all their friends; from hence arose the old son of " Polwarth on the Green." Instances of longevity are not uncommon. The present incuni bent, who has been sixty-four years minister, is eig^hty-nine yeai of age, and is the oldest clergyman in the Church of Scotlanc Several of the parish paupers have also attained to a great age. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The agriculture of this paiisi is of the most approved kind. The soil is various. But the greater part of it is clay, some of which is on a tilly bed, and is best adapt ed for grass ; other parts of it are gravellish, and some sandy. Oj the north-west is a considerable extent of moor. The whole parish is enclosed except a small farm, and the moo which is allotted by the proprietor to the use of the viHage fo pasture and fuel A great deal of land is in old grass, which i subdivided into enclosures of from ten to thirty acres, all suflS< ciently watered. These are let annually, and bring very high rents for the accommodation of those farmers who breed more stock thai they can maintain at home. The principal crops are oats, barley, turnips, a little wheat, anc occasionally a few pease and beans. There is a considerable quan- tity of old timber of good size, besides extensive young plantations which are in general very thriving. We here give a tabular statement of the manner in which the whole land of the parish is occupied. 12Bl.d2,* Arable. 39a 10, Wood. 2a9.87, Pasture. 1014.90, Moor. d9.5d, Huads. 28.40, Fences. 17.H5, Houses. ia08, Moss. 9051.05. Total number of acres in Polwarth parish. Rent of Land. — The valued rent of the parish is L. 1624 Scotch; the real rent is L. 1730 SterUng. Grass land lets at from 10s. to L. % 5s. per acre ; arable land, from 10s. to L. 2, 2s. Produce. — Grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man or the domestic animals, ---... L. i^gg q' ^ Potatoes, turnips, &c. ..... 402 Hay, - - - . . . - 430 I^nd in pasture, - . . . . . 1097 O Total yearly value of raw produce raii^d, 3 L. 3297 POLWARTH. 235 V. — Parochial Economy. Means ofCommunicationj Sfc. — Polwartb has no market; for this it is dependent on Dunse, which is four miles distant, and on Green- law, which is three. The parish is intersected by the road from Dunse to Edinburgh, and a stage-coach between these places pas- ses the village daily. There are parish and private roads, which are all kept in good repair. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is centrally situated, and is regularly attended by all the people, except two or three, who are Dis$enters. There is no dissenting place of worship. The ave- rage number of communicants is about 120. The stipend, which received an augmentation in 1814, consists of 64 bolls oats, 80 barley, 80 oatmeal, with L. 5, lis. 1^ Ster- ling in money. * The manse is an old house with additions, part of which were made at the expense of the present incumbent The glebe is about fourteen English acres. Education. — There is a sufficient school-house, with a residence for the teacher. The salary is L. 28^ with about an acre of land. The school is attended, on an average, by forty-five scholars. The probable yearly amount of fees actually paid to the teacher is L. 19. Poor.— The poor on the roll of the parish amount to 9 ; and the present annual assessment for their support is L. 50. The reason of the largeness of this sum is, that the parish has to sup- port a lunatic in an asylum, at an expense of L. 23, 10s. per an- num. All the poor on the roll that reside in the parish have a free house and garden from the late Sir W. P. H. Campbell of March- mont. His benevolence extended also to othenQ particularly to the widows of those connected with the estate. At his demise in the beginning of 1833, he farther, by an heritable bond of annuity executed by him, bequeathed L.25 Sterling per annum for the use and behoof of the poor of Polwarth. Besides the enrolled poor, there are others who receive occa-^ sional relief. This is afforded partly from a fund of mortified money (L. Ill), the interest of which is distributed by the kirk- session, and partly from the collections at the church-doors, which may amount to L. 5 annually. Jti/y 1834. PARISH OF LANGTON. PRESBYTERY OF DUNSE, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TITIOTDALE. THE REV. JOHN BROWN, D. D. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Boundaries^ 8fc. — The name of this parish is deriyed from the village of Langtofti or 'Lang-tun, which was probably so called from its long straggling figure. It extended at one time from the immediate neighbourhood of Langton House almost to the eastern limits of the parish. But, as it interfered with some improvements which Mr Gavin, a former proprietor, wished to in- troduce, he offered to the inhabitants, on advantageous terms, another situation about half a mile distant They accepted his offer, — removed in 1760, — and, in honour of its founder, named the new village Gavinton. The figure of the parish is irregularly triangular, about 4} miles in mean length, and 2^ in breadth. It contains 11^ square miles, lying partly in the Mersc and partly among the Lammermoors, which, under the name of Langton-Edge, run from east to west. Their height may be about 900 feet above the level of the sea. I^ngton- Burn, ^almost the only stream in the parish, is so small as scarcely to deserve notice. It runs eastward, and joins the Blackadder. The air, like that of the surrounding district, has always been reckoned pure, and the situation healthy. Botany. — That part of the parish which lies among the Lam- mermoors is almost completely covered with heath and some of the coarser grasses. By the sides of its streams, and in marshy situa- tions, may be found Myosotis repens of Don, Veronica scuiellata with its flowers sometimes white, and the beautiful Sedum villosum, Viola lutea grows sparingly on the hills ; Saxifraga hirculus has been lately discovered ; and, for the last two summers, Hypnum, stramineum has been noticed in fruit in a bogg\' situation, which does not seem to have been elsewhere observed. Its fruit is perfect in June. Near Langton-Lees there is a small stream, the steep banks of which are covered with natural wood. Its most interesting plants LANGTON. 237 are Rubus saxatilisj Cnicus heterophyllus^ Gymnostomum tenue^ and Hookeria lucens. A little farther down, the same stream enters and passes through Langton-Wood, a scene of much natural beauty. Among its banks are found, more or less plentifully, Ve- ronica montana^ Rumex sanguineus^ (variety with red veins,) Chry^ sosplenium qltemifolium^ Hiercudum moUe^ Hypnum alopecurum^ (in fruit,) and Orthotrichum diaphanum. In the lower, and culti- vated parts of the parish, Cerastium arvense^ Tragopogon mqfar, (lately added to the British Flora,) Anthoceros punctatusj and Pe. ziza Macropus^ are the most remarkable plants. The following species are not rare, but may deserve notice, as not having been observed elsewhere in Berwickshire: — Bidens cemua^ Myosotis sylvatica^ Gymnostomum fascicular e^, Bryum mar" ginatum^ Hypnum piliferum^ H. murale^ Jungermannia reptans^ J. tomentilla^ Sticta fuliginosa. IL — Civil History. Historical Notices. — From its situation, the village of Langton was exposed to all the misfortunes of Border warfare. It was burned in 1558 by Sir Henry Percy and Sir George Bowes, and at other times pillaged by marauding parties from England. During the reign of David I. the manor of Langtoii, with the advowson of the church, belonged to Roger de Ow, a Northum- brian follower of Prince Henry. Roger de Ow granted to the monks of Kelso the church of Langton, which was accordingly held by Henry the Parson. From him the estate passed to Wil- liam de Vetereponte, or Vipont, who continued to these monks the church with its tithes and lands, adding also those of Coleman's Flat In 1296, John Vicar of Langton swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick, and, in return, obtained a writ for the restitution of his vicarage. The first Vipont was succeeded by his eldest son by his first wife, Emma de St Hilary, and this family continued Lords of Langton till Sir William Vipont was killed at Bannockburn in 1314. Immediately after this, the estate passed into the family of Cock- bum by marriage with the heiress of Vipont. Alexander Cockbum of Langton was keeper of the great seal to Roberts II. and III. He was made hereditary Ostiarius Parliamenti, and this office was annexed to the barony of Langton by charter of James IV. Fe- bruary 20, 1504. William Cockburn of Langton was created a baronet by Charles I. in 1627. Sir Alexander Cockbutiv h^^iS VS^a\ vcv ^^ 238 BERWICKSHIRE. battle of Fontenoy. The estate continued in their family tall 1758^ when it was sold to David Gavin, Esq. Antiquities. — On the hill near Raedeugh-head, the traces of two military stations still remain. The ditches are very entire, and belonged, it is thought, to a Danish encampment. The traces of another encampment are also to be seen on the moor near Choice- Lee, where a regiment was stationed after the rebellion of 1715 to keep the Jacobites in awe. The place is still called Camp-Muir. In 1792, when removing a large cairn from the top of the Crmn- stane-hill, close to the dte of the present church, several earthen urns of various sizes were discovered. They contained human bones, but bore no inscription. Stone coffins were also found on the ianns of Middlefield and Crease, one of which was d^ feet long, 2 deep, and 2i broad. In 1819, a bracelet of gold was found in a small stream at the Battle- Muir. It measured nine inches in circnm- fercnee, and was sold for L. 36. III. — Population. The following is a state of the population at different periods when a census was taken : Males. Females. ToUl. 1755, ■ 290 1793, 211 - 224 - 435 IHOl, 189 - 239 - 428 1811, 109 - 219 - 418 1821, 219 - 258 - 477 1K*31, 215 - 228 - 443 la^ 503 Sonic extensive improvements on the grounds at Langton House, begim since the census of 1831, by affording occupation for more workmen, may in part account for the increased population of 183dL The average number of births for the last seven years, as en- tered in the parish register, is 9 7. Dissenters do not commonly register the births of their children. The village of Gavintou contains 243 inhabitants. The rest of the population live on the various farms. Number ufindiviUiials above 70, - - 2i unmorrictl men above 50, - - 10 iinm>u'rio(l women almve 45, - • 19 families in the parish, ... Qg chiefly employed in agriculture, - 48 in trade, manufactures, and handicraft, 22 The parish, with one or two trifling exceptions, belongs to the Marchioness of Breadalbane, who usually resides here during part of the year, and has of late made great improvements on the grounds around L«mgton House. IV. — Industry. Agriculture wid Rural Economy. — The northern part of the pa- LANGTON. 239 rish, containing about 4000 imperial ^u^res, lies among the Lam- mermoors, and is fit only for sheep-pasture. The rest is arable, consisting of about 3000 acres, 900 of which are annually let as grass parks. About 200 acres are covered by wood. Oak, ash, elm, beech, birch, plane, Scotch fir, spruce, and larch, are the kinds grown, and they are all in a thriving condition. The recent plantations, which amount to about 100 acres, will soon afford im- portant shelter to the various farms. Rent of Land, — The rent of arable land varies from 17s. to about L. 3 per English acre. It may average L. 1, 7s. The average rent of grass lately has been L. 3, 17s. 6d. per cow, L.2, 10s. per ox, and 12s. per sheep. The cattle are chiefly of the Tees-water breed, the sh^p Leicester and Cheviot, with a few black-faced. It€Ue of Wages. — The yearly wages of a farm-servant are 10 bolls of oats, 3 of barley, 1 of pease, L. 3 in cash, and he has a cow kept, which is equal to L. 6 more. While he is cutting and carrying in the crop, his food is provided by the farmer. He has, besides, a house, a small garden, and half a rood of land for pota- toes, for all which he furnishes a labourer in time of harvest He also provides a labourer for hoeing turnips, &c and for this he is allowed lOd. per day. The wages of an unmarried servant, besides board, are L. 8 per annum ; those of a female-servant from L. 6 to L. 7, 7s. The wages of shepherds are the same with those of farm-servants, ex- cept that, instead of L. 3 in cash, they have a few sheep grazed, varying in number according to the nature of the pasture. Day-labourers on farms receive from 8s. to 9s. per week. They work ten hours in summer, and in winter as long as day-light lasts. While the corn is carrying in, farm-servants are ready to work at all times, labouring sometimes the greater part of the night Scarcely any class of men is more respectable than the farm-ser- vants of Berwickshire. They are intelligent, industrious, and sober. Masons, in summer, work ten hours, in winter about seven and a-half or eight. During the summer of 1833, they had 14s. per week, and for the three preceding seasons 13s. For a short time last winter they had lis., but afterwards 10s., which had been the rate of their wages for three preceding years. Wrights work the same number of hours with masons, and their wages are nearly the same. Smiths are allowed L. 2, 10s., with the driving of a cart of coals (valued at 8s.) for keeping up the iron work required for a pair of fstrm-faOTses. This includes shoes, the iron work oC o^ 240 BERWICKSHIRE. plough, harrows, and cart, exclusively of wheels and azletree, Other work, as that connected with gates or machinery', is chaig- ed at 5d. per lb. The shoe of a riding-horse costs 8d. Husbandry. — The arable farms are managed in five divisions (or breaks^ as they are called,) viz. 1. oats; 2. turnips or fallow, according to the nature of the soil ; 3. barley or wheat ; 4 and 5 grass for two years. This system is prescribed by all the lease on the I^angton estate. The turnips are generally eaten on th ground by sheep confined by nets or hurdles. In sowing grain some of the farmers use machines, — a practice which seems rapidh extending. The kinds of grain commonly sown are wheat, barley, oats beans, and pease, of which the average produce is towards six boll per English acre ; potatoes yield from 30 to 40 bolls ; hay, fron 150 to 250 stones, or a little more ; turnips, when led off the land sell at from I^ 6 to L. 9 ; when eaten on the ground, from L. 3 10s. to Ij. 5 per acre. The quantity of grain of all kinds amounts to about 3500 bolls Two hundred and fifty acres of turnips, and about 150 of hay, an usually grown. The rental of the parish is a little above L. 4000. V. — Parochial Economy. nUafffi, — (lavinton is the only village in the parish, and Dunse, which is two miles distant, is both our market and post-town. Eccksifisticfd State^ Sfc, — Tlie present church was erected in 1798 at tlie west end of the village of Gavinton. Till that time the old church, which stood near Langton-House, had continued to be used. It is impossible to ascertain when the latter was built. It must, however, have been at a very remote period, for no notice of its erection occurs in the books of the presbytery, and there are tombstones in the churchyard bearing the date of 1620. It seems to have required no repairs at the parochial visitation called in 1684 by order of the Bishop of Edinburgh, while Mr Patrick Walker was minister. At the next visitation in 1700, the pres* bytery are said to have found " several things necessary to com- pleat y* same ;" and the moderator, by their appointment, ** re- commended y* persons concerned to see to y* repair y'of." At a third visitation in 1721, they discovered that " the roof was in ill condition," and in 1727 it fell to the ground. It then under- went a thorough repair, and stood till the present church was erected. At the visitation in 1684, the manse and offices were condemn- LANOTON. 241 ed by the presbytery, after hearing the evidence (on oath) of Messrs William Moscript and James Walkinshaw, wrights, and John, Daniel, and Alexander Gilkie,* masons. A new manse and offices were then built on a different site ; and an excambion of the glebe took place, with the consent of Sir Alexander Cock- burn of Langton, and Alexander Cockbum of Blacksmiln, who were present at the meeting. The manse then built was occupied till 1766, when the present was erected by Mr Gavin. Another excambion of the glebe was then also agreed to, but subsequently amended, as being less advantageous to the living. In the year 1819, an important addition to the manse was made by the late Marquis of Breadalbane. The minister of Langton before the Restoration was Mr John Bum, who retained his charge till the time of his death in 1677. He seems to have been an exceedingly pious and .amiable man. More zealously attached to Presbyterian principles than many of his brethren, he attended the presbytery only twice after the es- tablishment of Episcopacy, and yet he remained unmolested till the year 1670, when he allowed some of the ejected ministers to assist him at a communion. He experienced much kindness and countenance from the Cockburns of Langton. Like the Humes of Polwarth and Redbraes, and the Kerrs of Nisbet, this distin- guished family was eminent for piety, and suffered in the cause of civil and religious liberty. In 1679 they established a meeting in one of the houses attached to Langton Castle, where they had regularly preaching from Mr Luke Ogle,f (the friend of Mr Gil- bert Rule, afterwards Principal of the University of Edinburgh,) Mr John Veitch of Westruther, and Mr Daniel Douglas. This meeting must have been connived at by the bishop and the Duke of Lauderdale, for none of the parishioners were molested for at- tending it, except John Galloway, the beadle, whom the presby- tery appointed to be " put out of his office." There is reason to believe that practical religion flourishes greatly in the parish, and that the preaching of Mr Ogle was eagerly resorted to by serious * The last three were ancestors of some of the present inhabitants of Gavinton. f Sir Alexander Cockburn resided at that time in Langton Castle, which stood in what is now called the Little Byres Park. A chapel was soon afterwards erected in Langton-wood, opposite Haining-Rigg, which was occupied by Mr Ogle, and where John Veitch is reported to have preached occasionally, and baptized the chil- dren of some of the parishioners. The Duke of Laudci'dale, though applied to by some of the Episcopalians, refused to institute proceedings against Mr Veitch for preaching in the chapel. After the Revolution, when the parish church was again filled by a Presbyterian minister, it is probable that the chapel was granted to the handful of Episcopalians who resided in the neighbourhood ; and from this circum- stance it was erroneously supposed to have been an Episcopal chapel. BERWICK. Q 242 UERWICKSHIRE. iiulividiials from the neighbouring districts. Two Episcopalian ministers held the living before the Revolution^ — Mr Robert Hoop- er from 1G77 to 168;), and Mr Patrick Walker from 1683 to 168d The first seems to have been a peaceable man ; the second vas a bigottcd prelatist. Mr Dysart, who was afterwards translated to Coldingham, was the first minister after the Revolution. The neit was Mr Dawson, a highly respectable clerg^'man. He was sw- ceeded in 17*27 by his son, Mr James Dawson, who in 1733 was translated to the ])arish of St Cuthberts. Since that time the living has been held by Mr James Lawrie, who was removed lo Hawick in 1757; Dr David Johnston promoted to North Leith in 1 765 ; Mr Andrew Smith, who died in 1 789 ; Mr Alexander Girvan, (fonnerly minister of Lunan,) who died in 1809; and the present incumbent. The records of session reach no farther back than 10th Sep- tember 17^27 : but there was a more ancient book, which was regu- larly presented to the presbytery both before the re-establishment of lipiscopacy and after the Revolution. It seems to have been the only session-book within their bounds which, except in a single instance, was never transmitted while they were under the ly a small addition to the number of its members. Its allowance was at first more liberal than the funds would admit, and was conse- quently reduced, — a circumstance which probably deterred many from joining it. Still it is exceedingly useful ; and, as the tate has for some time been stationary, strong hopes are entertained that it will revive. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The annual assessments have been greatly reduced, chiefly by the temporary aid which is furnished from the weekly collections in church to those individuals or fa- milies who may require it. They are thus enabled to extricate themselves from difficulties, and prevented from coming perma- nently on the roll. To enable the session to afford this assistance, the whole of the collections since the commencement of the pre- sent incumbent's ministry have been placed at their disposal. The allowance to paupers on the roll averages Is. 9d. per week ; but the session also gives occasional donations of meal and coal dur- ing winter, and 8s. or 10s. to each after the communion. In some instances a weekly allowance of 4s. has been given to individuals who had formerly been in more prosperous circumstances; but these instances have been rare. Widows with three or four young children have received 4s. and have had their children educated, sometimes at the expense of the session, sometimes at that of the heritors. It is due to the benevolence of the Marchioness of Brea- dalbane to say, that there is not a parish in Berwickshire where more liberal provision has been made for the poor. In 1832 the assessment amounted to L.29, exclusive of L.2, 10s. paid to the collector. The number of paupers on the roll was 5, one of whom was so old as to require the attendance of another individual. The collections at the church doors amounted to L. 29, 3s. Ojd. Of this, L.6, 17s. was paid to the precentor, ses- sion-clerk, beadle, presbytery and synod clerks. The remaining L. 22, 6s. Jd. was distributed, partly among the poor on the roll, and partly among ten individuals not receiving stated assistance. AutpjLst 1834. PARISH OF DUNSE. PRESBYTERY OF DUNSE, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TIVIOTDALE. THE REV. GEORGE CUNNINGHAM, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Boundaries. — The ancient name of the town and pa- rish of Dunse was Duns, from the Celtic Dhun or Dun, a hill ; the ancient site of the town having been towards the north-west side of a beautiful hill called Dunse-Law, till it was burnt by the English. From this circumstance, the fields occupying the space in which the town was formerly situated are now called Brunton. Soon after the year 1588 the present town began to be built in a lower situation on the skirts of the southern side of the hill, from which the town derives its name ; then the name was corrupted into Dunse, The extreme length of the parish is about 6 miles from south- east to north-west ; its mean breadth about 3 J ; so that its extent in square miles is about 18 or 19 miles. Its figure is so irregular as not to admit of any more exact description, than that, towards its northern and southern extremities, its breadth is between three and four tniles, and in the middle, less than two miles. It is bound- ed by the parish of Edrom on the east, south, and south-east ; by Bunkle and a detached part of Longformacus on the north-east ; by Abbey St Bathans on the north ; and by another part of Long- formacus and by Langton on the west. Topographical Appearances. — The Lammermoor range of hills runs along the northern side of the parish ; in which may be in- cluded Cockburn-Law, about 912 feet above the level of the sea, the conical figure of which, so different from the gibbous shape of the neighbouring hills, renders it a land-mark to mariners coming from the east. There are scarcely any valleys or absolutely flat lands in the parish; but in the south and east, which are the most fertile parts of it, the ground, to the extent of two or three square miles, rises into gentle swells, ranging from a point north of east to a point south of west ; from which circumstance the meridian 248 BERWICKSHIRE. generally adopted by those who are not very accurate in their ob- servations is placed a little to the eastward of its proper position. Dunse-Law is 630 feet above the level of the sea. Hydrography. — The river Whitadder runs along the northern and eastern sides of the parish, and forms its boundary with the parishes of Longformacus and Bunkle. The nearest point at which it approaches the town of Dunse is distant two miles.— Langton- bum, a rivulet, rises in the parish from which it receives its name, and forming the southern boundary of this parish with Edrom, joins the Blackadder a little below Wedderburn ; through part of which estate it passes. The Dunse spa, analyzed by Dr Francis Home about the year 1751, at which time it was in much repute, is now entirely Delect- ed, — having sunk in reputation ever since it was analyzed. Its waters having become mixed with the ordinary springs in the neigh- bourhood are considered as destitute of any efficacy. This spring, though called Dunse spa, is within the limits of the pa- rish of Edrom. There is an artificial lake near Dunse Castle formed about a century ago, which is very ornamental to the place. Considering its distance from any river, Dunse is remarkably well supplied with soft water. Till within these few years, its supply of that article, so essential to cleanliness, health, and comfort, de- pended entirely on a spring conveyed from the top of Dunse-Law, and there was plenty of hard-water in wells dug in every part of the town ; but by the application of a considerable sum of money bequeathed by the late Alexander Christie, Esq. of Grueldykes, and the liberal permission of William Hay, Esq. of Dunse Castle, an inexhaustible supply of excellent water, fit for all purposes, has now been brought in pipes from a spring near the site of the old town of Duns. Geology and Mineralogy. — Cockburn-Law affords an interesting subject of investigation to the geologist; and the following notices are furnished by a friend well skilled in the science of geology, who informs me that it is one of those detached hills which so frequently occur in Scotland to perplex the geologist. The Whitadder en- circles it on three sides, the rocks in the bed of the river being principally greywacke and greywacke-slate, the characterizing rocks of the transition series. The neighbouring hills are also princi- pally composed of these rocks. Cockburn-Law itself, however, is a great mass of unstratified rocks, the principal of which are por- ' DUN8E. 249 phyry and granite, with occasional beds of greenstone. The gra- nite forms the highest part of the hill, porphyry being situated lower down. The granite appears to be the same as that which occurs at Fasney Water, at some distance to the westward, and which has been the subject of such keen discussion between the Wemerians and Huttonians. The former have called it tran- sition sienite, but this on Cockbum-Law has all the component parts of granite, and these disposed in the usual way. The hill is detached in this manner from all the surrounding hills, — being com- posed of rocks totally dissimilar and unstratified, and surrounded at the base by regularly stratified rocks, which, from their present appearance and position in many places, seem to have suffered great violence. The same formations cross the Whitadder eastward into the parish of Bunkle. Between Cockbum-Law and Dunse a nar- row stripe may be traced of. old red sandstone, the first and oldest rock of the secondary series. This formation of old red sandstone appears to rest immediately on the transition rocks. The rocks in the lower part of the parish appear to belong partly to the coal, and partly to the new red sandstone formation, but the sandstone of the coal formation seems to be the predominant rock. This sandstone frequently abounds with vegetable impressions, and casts of palms and other monocotyledonous plants. These are found in abundance in a sandstone quarry at the southern boundary of the parish. Immediately to the southward of the town, there is a bog ex- tending a considerable distance eastward and westward, which was formerly impassable, except in one place, and seems in ancient times to have formed one of its principal defences from its southern enemies. There is now a small detached part of the town on the south side of it, named the Bridge-end, and opposite, on the north side, a small field named Barniken, probably a corruption of Bar- bican. The bog is now drained, and is excellent cow-pasture. The northern part of the parish is in general a sharp gravelly dry soil ; the southern part is a very rich light deep loam, and all (except some very small detached spots of clay,) of that sort which agriculturists denominate a good turnip soil. Close to the town is a dark deep sandy loam, formed from the debris of the sandstone. On the banks of the Whitadder, mines have been repeatedly dug, and copper has been found, but not in sufficient quantity to 250 BERWICKSHIRE. recompense the labour employed, and therefore the exertions ir search of it have been discontinued. Zoology, — The lake at Dunse Castle is well stocked with tenchj perch, and eels; but attempts to stock it with trout have not been verj successful. In the months of September and October, salmon and grilse in great numbers ascend the Whitadder to its very source, and all its tributary streams, even those that are inconsiderable, — for the purpose jof depositing their spawn in the gravel. The whit- ling, a smaller fish, resembling them in quality and habits, is also found in considerable numbers ; also a coarser fish somewhat simi- lar, and commonly called the bull-trout. They return to the sea with the first spring floods. In May the common bum trout is in abundance : although not accounted so rich in quality, it is more delicate in flavour than the trout of the Blackadder. Though the Whitadder and Blackadder unite their streams a few miles below Dunse (after their union retaining the name of Whitadder,) the quality of the trout remains quite distinct ; and salmon is seldom known to enter the Blackadder, although at their junction there is no remarkable difierence in their size. Pheasants were introduced into the woods at Dunse Castle, about twenty years ago, and abound there and in the neighbouring plantations. II. — Civil History. The original charter erecting Dunse into a burgh of barony was granted in the year 1489 by James IV. A charter was also grant- ed by James VI. to Cuthbert Home in Dunse of nine acres of land, and " confirmand ane charter yrof granted to him by Sir Hugh Hudson, Chaplane of the alter of the Virgin Marye in Dunse, dated 1584." Eminent Men, — As far as tradition is entitled to any credit, John Duns Scotus, Doctor Subtilis, appears to have been a native of this parish. His father was a younger son of Duns of Gmeldykes, a cadet of Duns of that ilk, and the house in which he is said to have been born was situated in the old town of Duns, near the gate leading to Dunse Castle. A large stone, now forming part of a park wall, has been pointed out from generation to generation as having belonged to the house in which he was born. There are different accounts as to the date of this extraordinary man's birth, — some placing it in the year 1265, and others in 1274. All agree that he early entered into a monastery of Franciscan or Gray friars, but all are not equally agreed whether at Newcastle or Dumfries ; whence he DUNSE. 251 went to prosecute his studies at Merton College, in the University of Oxford, where he acquired a fellowship, and was advanced in 1301 to the University Professorship of Theology. By command of the general of his Order, he went to Paris in 1304 to defend his doctrine of the immaculate conception; which he did with great applause. He was sent on the same mission to Cologne in 1308^ where he died on the 8th of November in the same year. His works are collected into twelve bulky folios, of which the most per- fect edition was printed at Lyons in 1629. Long after his decease the disputes of the Scotists and Thomists continued to disturb the peace of the Christian church, and to exercise the perverted inge- nuity of churchmen. This parish has also produced men distinguished by their piety, and by their scientific, literary, and moral attainments. Among these, as elsewhere noticed, the Rev. Thomas Boston, the author of the Fourfold State and Sermons, was born at Dunse in 1676, and died at Etterick in 1732. Abraham Robertson, LL. D., Savilian Professor of Astronomy at Oxford, who also presided at the Board of Longitude, was bom in 1751, of parents in a humble condition of life in the town of Dunse ; and, after arriving by the diligent application of his talents at high distinction in mathematical science, died at Oxford in 1826, as much distinguished by his unaffected modesty and other moral qualities as by his scientific attainments. The Rev. Thomas M*Crie, D. D., authorof the life of John Knox, and other admirable historical works, was bom at Dunse in 1773. This parish was also the birth-place of the Rev. James Gray, formerly one of the Masters of the High School of Edinburgh, and afterwards admitted to holy orders in the Church of England. He was appointed to perform the duties of his office at Cutch, in the East Indies, and at the same time to direct the education of the prince of that country ; but was cut off in 1830, while zealously em- ployed in translating the Holy Scriptures into the Cutchee and Hindostanee, and composing the first grammar and dictionary which had ever been attempted of the Cutch language. Parochial Registers, — The parochial register of baptisms has been kept since 5th Febmary 161 5.» The register is now regularly kept ; but was not so in former times. It consists of the following volumes : \y from 1615 to 1666 4, from 1725 to 177B % 1606 1724 5, 1778 1810 Duplicates, 1666 1694 6, 1810 1832 252 BERWICKSHIRE. There are five volumes of alphabetical indices to the above, from 1615 to 1832. The record of the kirk-session commences in 1720, and is con- tinued in two volumes to 1738; after which it is discontinued till 1797, when the present incumbent was ordained. — There are also a record of deaths or rather funerals, and a record of marriages, com- mencing at, and continued from, the above date, 1797. Antiquities. EdinshalL — Till within a recent period this parish could boast, if the writer of the present article be not mistaken, of possessing perhaps the only specimen of the architecture of the first Saxon invaders of Britain, which has been preserved till mo- dern times in the southern part of Scotland. Within these forty years, the stones of this singular monument of antiquity were used as materials for fences, and the foundations only can now be traced. We shall describe, however, the building as it appeared before its final demoUtion, and shall state the reasons for attributing it to the era -mentioned. The ruins referred to bear the name of EdinshalL They are situated about a mile east from Abbey St Bathans on the northern slope of Cockburn-Law, where this hill stretches into a terrace of inconsiderable size, skirted by steep banks descending to the river Whitadder, which is distant about 200 yards. The building was circular, the outside diameter being 85 feet 10 inches, and the walls 15 feet 10 inches thick.* The height of the walls, which, in their ruinous state, was seven or eight feet, must originally have been considerable, as appeared from the large quantity of mate- rials rolled down the bank on which they stood, and lodging in the area they enclosed. In the interior of the walls were open spaces, having the appearance of separate cells, extending all round the building, difiering greatly in length, but all of the width of about three feet, and presenting in some places an appearance of having been arched over. The entrance was by a low narrow door on the eastern side. No cement had been used in the building ; but the stones, which were of whin, and most of them very large, were fitted with considerable accuracy to one another, — the concavity of the one • These dimensions were ascertained when the building was citant by Mr John Blackadder, an accurate land-surveyor. In the descriptions of this ruin, contained in the first Statistical Account and in Chalmers' Caledonia, which seem both to have been copied from an article in the Scots Magazine for 1764, (Vol. xxvi. p. 431,) it is said that the building consisted of three concentric circles, lliis, however, is a mistake ; for although two circles could be traced, in consequence of the walls having been divided by the nearly continuous cells mentioned in the text, there was no third interior wall. DflNSE. 253 receiving the convexity of the other, and the interstices being filled up with small stones. On the east and south of the principal tower, were the foundations of several oblong buildings, and of a single round one. To the south of the whole were trenches of considerable depth, surmounted on both sides by walls of stone and earth, one of which, after running in a westerly direction for fifty or sixty yards, turned northward, and followed the sweep of the hill till it reached the river. From the description now given of the principal tower of Edinshall, (never entitled to the name of a tower from its height, but only from its circular form,) it will be perceived that this build- ing is similar in construction to those called burghs in Orkney and Shetland, and Duns in the Highlands of Scotland, where the re- mains of many of them are still to be seen. * Indeed, the only dif- ference consists in the nature of the spaces in the interior of the walls, — which in Edinshall seem composed of separate cells, while in the similar buildings they are continuous passages ; but this dis- similarity is apparent only, because the upper part of the walls and the roof of the hollow spaces in Edinshall having fallen down, had partially filled up the passage, which went entirely along the interior of the wall, and had thus divided that passage into what seemed to be separate compartments. This supposition derives confirmation from the fact, that most of these cells had no en- trances, and it may safely be assumed that they were not origi- nally constructed in that form. Now it is known that the buildings called Burghs or Duns were the workmanship of the ancient Scandinavians, and that the kind of architecture of which they are examples was common to that nation with the Saxons and other northern tribes. Hence it may be inferred, that Edinshall was built by one of those tribes ; and, as it bore the name of Edwin, the most celebrated king of the Northumbrian Saxons, and as it was situated within his territo- ries, which extended from the Humber to the Forth, we may con- clude that he was the builder of Edinshall. In that case, it must have been erected between the years 617 and 633, the period of Edwin's reign. This conclusion derives confirmation from other circumstances. In King Edwin's time, the mode of architecture of his tribe • See description of Castle Moussa bv Sir W. Scott, Waverley Novels, note, Vol. xvii. p. 335, also Pennant*s Tour, Goran's Itlnerarium Septentrionale, p. 166, and Encyclopaedia Britannica, xHxe Dun. — Mr Blackadder informs us, that Edinshall was precisely similar to the Highland Duns, several of which he had visited. 254 DERWICKSHIUE. could not have undergone any change, because his father, CEll was the first of his house who settled here, and because in tl interim the arts of peace were not cultivated. It is recorde too, that the art of building with mortar or cement was not intr duced into Britain till after this time, — the first Saxon buildings < stone and lime having been the monastery of Weremouth, fount ed in 674, and the Cathedral of Hexham erected soon afte wards, — both constructed by masons and artificers brought froi abroad.* The situation of Edinshall is neither strong in itself, nor fitte to protect any part of the adjoining country. From this fact, i may be inferred that the building was designed not so much for military station as a place of residence or a court of justice Hence it does not bear the name of burgh, which signifies castle, but that of hall, which means a palace or a court. It is now generally admitted that the present metropolis of Scot land was founded by the same prince to whom we have attribute! the erection of Edinshall. On the summit of Dunse-Law are the vestiges of the entrenchec camp occupied by General Leslie and 20,000 Covenanters in Ma^ 1639, — for the purpose of opposing a threatened invasion of Scot* land by King Charles, who, wishing to impose Episcopacy on the Scottish nation, had advanced with a great force to Birks, seven miles beyond Berwick. Matters were, however, accommodated without bloodshed at that time, by an agreement, with which nei- ther party seems to have been quite satisfied, or in which neither, of course, was quite sincere. There was found in Dunse Castle, between thirty and forty years ago, a copy of the Solemn League and Covenant, which was most probably sworn and signed on that occasion, and left there by some of the Scottish nobles who were parties to the accommodation, and occupied the castle, while theii troops were encamped on the neighbouring hill. In the turbulent times of 1517, during the minority of King James V. and the absence of the Regent Duke of Albany in France, a deed of atrocity was perpetrated on Sir Anthony D*Arcy, also denominated the Chevalier de la Beautc, at a morass called, from the name of the sufierer. Bat ties' Bog, on the line which di- vides the parish of Dunse from that of Edrom, on the north-east. The Chevalier, in performing the duties of Lord Warden of the marches, acting with much severity, had incurred the displeasure • Hcury*s History of Briuin, Vol. ii. p. 891. 4 DUNSE. 255 of the laird of Wedderburn, who was also exasperated by the re- cent murder of his chief, the Earl of Home, though under the pro-' tection of an invitation by the Regent Albany to Edinburgh. The warden being worsted by the Homes, fled unattended towards Dun- bar, pursued by the laird of Wedderburn. His horse being swamped in the bog, he continued his flight on foot, but was overtaken by his adversary, who cut ofi* his head, and carried it, fastened to his saddle girth by the hair, in triumph to the Castle of Wedderburn. As the bog is on the confines of the parishes of Dunse and Edrom, and the deed was done in the parish of Edrom, while the perpe- trator was a distinguished person in the parish of Dunse, the dis- credit of it falls in some measure on both ; and it is, perhaps, in- cumbent on the writers of the statistics of both parishes to record the atrocious fact. Modem Buildings. — These are, — Dunse Castle, a very splendid edifice, in the Gothic style of architecture, the greater part modern, but added to an ancient tower said to have been built by Randolph, Earl of Murray. — Wedderburn Castle, a very elegant building, in the Grecian style of architecture. — Manderston, also a fine man- sion, situated in a lawn, and adorned with a lake and other embel- lishments. — The town-house of Dunse, a modern building, (the foundation stone of which was laid in 1816,) in the Gothic style of architecture. The present church was built in the year 1790. It is as remarkable for the plainness of its exterior as for its neatness and commodiousness within. The Saxon pillars and arches of the old church, which it replaced, indicated its antiquity. From a date on the gallery, called the Burgess-loft, it seemed to have been repaired in 1572. The estate and patronage of the church belonged in early times to Duns of that ilk, and were granted by Robert the Bruce to Ran- dolph, Earl of Murray. The latter granted a charter in 1316 to the monks of Newbattle, with an annuity of two merks out of the lands of Kingside. The charter was dated " apud Parcum de Duns," in the king's presence, — Patrick Earl of March, Sir James Dou- glas, and several persons of note, being also present. I II. — Population. The population of this parish in 1755 was, - 2593 1801, - 3324 1811, - - 3163 1821, - 3773 1831, - - 3469 Under the last census the number of males was 1629; of fe- males, 1840. 256 BERWICKSIIIKE. The population of the town amounts to 2656 ; of the coiu to 813. There are no villages in the parish. J. Number orfemilira in the pvUh, _ - - of fiuuilici chieSjr eni|)lojr«l in agriculture, chiefly emplojcd in trade, muiu&etDres, or hmndicraA, 2. The kvenge number oTUrUu Tcul;, fiirlbe Un 7 yean, - , of deaths, .... The principal resident proprietors in the parish, are. Will Hay, Esq. of Dunse Castle ; the Honourable General MaitI of Manderston ; William F. Home, Esq. of Wedderbum. The proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwai are. The Most Noble the Marquis of Breadalbaue; Dr Alezan Monro, of Cockburn ; Mrs Tumbull, of Grueldykes ; Ji Wilson, Esq. of Cumledge; James Bell, Esq. of Ninewar; V liam Sanderson, Esq. of Ninewar; James Luke, Esq. of Ladyw Douglas Ainslie, Esq. of Caimbank; Major A. Brown, of Trii Lodge ; the Representatives of the late A. Logan, Esq. of Bu houses. The number of insane persons in the parish is 6 ; blind, deaf and dumb, 2. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — This parish, which is pai in L^mmermoor, contains about 12,000 acres. About 6000 ac arc arable, 1000 under wood, and the remainder hill pasture. 1 arable land is highly cultivated, being all enclosed, limed, a drained, and generally let in leases of nineteen years. Rmt of Land. — ^The average rent of the southem part of I parish is nearly L.2, 10s. per imperial acrcj the reminder L. 1,. The hill pasture is of very httle value. Husbandry. — Nearly the whole of the arable land is a dry san loam, and well adapted for the raising of turnips. It is manag partly in a four-course shift, and partly in a five, viz. first, turni] second, barley; third, pasture; fourth, oats, or two years pastu: Rale of Wages. — On the different farms almost all the servai are paid partly in corn and partly in money, — they having a o maintained all the year. Servants paid in this manner appear live better than those who are paid entirely in money. In the parish of Dunse, in common with the parishes in its vi< nity, the most improved brcedsof short-homed cattle, Leicestershi • 'Jliis cnumCTDtian mu: regular msrriagei. of pern DUNSE. 257 sheep, aud Hampshire pigs, have been introduced for many years, — the chief excellence of which consists in their coming to a state of full size and fatness in less than half the time required for the native breed, and so more speedily remunerating the skill and industry of the breeder. These are reared mostly for the Eng- lish market, and the labouring-class of consumers at home, — while the Kyloe or Highland oxen and the black-faced or Cheviot sheep, kept to a more mature age, are chiefly fattened for the use of those who can afford a somewhat higher price at home.* V. — Parochial Economy. Markets. — There is a weekly market in Dunse every Wednes- day, at which little business is done. The principal market-town is Berwick, distant about fifteen miles. Means of Communication. — There is a post twice a-day to Lon- don, and once to Edinburgh. There is also a daily coach to Edin- burgh. Ecclesiastical State. — The church, conveniently situated for the parish in general, is in good repair, and affords accommodation to about 1200 persons. The manse^as built in the year 1780, and has undergone no general repair since, but is kept in good habit- able condition. The extent of the glebe is between nine and ten acres, and its value about L. 35 or L. 40 a-year. The stipend was augmented in 1833 to 20 chalders, — one-half meal, one-half bar-^ ley ; with L. 10 for conmiunion elements. There are three dissenting chapels in this parish, — two of the United Associate, and one of the Relief. The stipends are paid by the congregations. The number of families attending the Established church is 390; attending the dissenting chapels, 446. Divine service is, with as few exceptions as in most places, well attended in the Esta- blished church and in the chapels. The number of communicants in the Established church averages nearly 600. Education. — There is one parochial school in the parish, at- tended at an average by 120 children. The schoolmaster, who has all the usual emoluments, is qualified to teach the English, French, Latin, and Greek languages, writing, arithmetic, book- keeping, the principles of mathematics, and geography. He is diligent, and successful in communicating instruction. His salary is the maximum L. 34, 4s. 4d. The average amount of school- * The writer regrets that he has not been able to ascertain the gross amount of raw produce yearly raised in the parish . BERWICK. R 258 BERWICKSHIRE. fees for the last 3 years is L. 70 per annum ; and the aven his fees as session-clerk is L. 8. There is also a ver^- respectable and flourishing institutio vhich the above-mentioned branches of education are tsugl one licentiate of the Church of Scotland, assisted by another. ' at present, with much ability and success, superintend the ec tion of twenty boarders, and of about thirty other pupils in town and neighbourhood, to whose instruction, conduct, and i fort, every passible attention is given. Besides these, there six schools for the education of boys and girls, who are well ta in all the ordinary branches of education. Religious instnn 4s communicated by reading the scriptures and catechising. T are two respectable schools for female education, — one of thi boarding-school, well entitled to every degree of encouragen and both of them well taught in everything useful and omame required in the middling ranks of life, as well as in religion morals. There are several sewing-schools for young female an inferior condition of life. All, except the parochial school, supported entirely by fees for instruction. Some Sunday schools are taught by persons of the laboui classes under the superintendence of their ministers. It is i that those for whose benefit they are chiefly intended, the child of negligent parents, seldom attend, there being no compulsat power to enforce attendance. The people are generally alive to the benefits of educati The heritors pay the school fees for those parents, the povert] whose circumslanccs has been ascertained. Savings Barik.— There has been a Savings Bank for Dunse t the contiguous parishes existing for a good many years, but ii very languishing state, Literature. — A subscription library was commenced in 17( There are also two circulating libraries, and a reading-room i newspapers. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of poor the roll is 130 : they receive from Is. to 3s, per week. The leg assessment for the poor amounts to L. 710 yearly, and is their sc supply, except a small sum from the collections, which are mui reduced by the heavy assessments. Collections, mortcloth, and ma riage-fees may amount to L. 18 or L, 19, L. 100 was bequeati ed to the poor by General James Dickson of the Honourable E^ India Company's service, the interest of which is divided year DUNSE. 259 among those who have a claim. It is a very remarkable circum- stance, that during the year ending in December 1830, only one per- son died who had a claim on the fund, and that, from May 1830 to July 1831, no pauper died, though their ages averaged sixty- one years. Dr Abraham Robertson, LL.D., mentioned among the distin- guished natives of this town, whose moral worth was equal to his scientific attainments, settled annuities of L. 10 on five poor fe* male cousins in the humble rank of life from which he sprung^ and whose infirmities, arising from old age, reduced them to the necessity of receiving supply from the poor's fund ; for which an- nuities he paid L. 450. In the year 1826, Alexander Christie, Esq. of Grueldykes, a native of, and a liberal benefactor to, the town of Dunse, bequeath- ed to the poor on the roll of the parish of Dunse, a sum equal to the sum to which they should be entitled from the roll for two years after his decease. His intention evidently was to prevent the in- terference of the heritors of the parish with his bequest, — the dispo- sal of which, however, would be attended with this evident con- sequence, that, if the poor should receive double aliment for two years, they would feel their privations, and be consequently more discontented after it was withdrawn, than if they had never received that benefit Some of the heritors suggested the plan of re- ducing the aliment on the roll to one-half during these two years, and taking the other half from the legacy. But Mr Christie's heirs declared their determination to reject that proposal, though it would have saved them one-half of the legacy, because they thought that such a plan would evade the intention of the testator. Another mode, however, was contrived and carried into effect, — by which the whole poor on the roll having claims, on condition of re- ceiving a certain sum in hand, disposed to George Peat, Esq. Sheriff-substitute, and James Bell, Esq. Sheriff-clerk of Berwick- shire, William Cunningham, Esq. bailie of Dunse, the Rev. George Cunningham, minister, and James Watson, Esq. writer, the whole remaining sum, to which, when accumulated, they might have claim, — that sum amounting to above L. 700 : and the interest was to be divided annually among the survivors at the beginning of each suc- cessive year: no one to receive more than L. 10 per annunL As, however, no provision is made for the disposal of the above L. 700, when those having claims may have died out ; and as it is not stated whether the tnistees act in their official or their individual capa- 260 BERWICKSHIRE. city, nor whether they can appoint successors, — this plan does not obviate, but only postpones, the difficulty respecting the ultimate disposal of the fund. The late Charles Marjoribanks, Esq. M. P. for Berwickshire, be- queathed first L. 10 and afterwards L. 100 to the poor of Dunse, to be at the disposal of the minister. By far the greater part of this is already distributed, and the rest is in the course of distribu- tion. Two Friendly Societies were instituted in 1780, and one in 1790. They still exist, though not founded on the most approved princi- ples of calculation. The Berwickshire Farmers* Widows* Fund, from that cause, has almost sunk under its own weight. Fairs, — There are three fairs annually held in Dunse, — one in June, another in August, and another in November, for cattle and horses ; and four quarterly markets for sheep, held in March, May, July, and September. Miscellaneous Observations. The most remarkable variation between the present state of the parish and neighbourhood, and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Account, is in the rent of land. Land which then let at 15s. and 7s. per acre, now lets at L. 2, 10s. and L. 1, 5s. per acre. Every improvement in the system of husbandry is speedilv adopted. August 1834. PARISH OF FOULDEN. PRESBYTERY OF CHIRNSIDE, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TIVIOTDALE. THE REV. ALEXANDER CHRISTISON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — There is a tradition that the parish of Foulden, or Fulden, received its name from some foul transaction, of which it was the scene during the border feuds. This origin of the name, however, does not satisfy etymologists, of whom some hold that it refers to the former marshiness, and others, to the fertility of the l^arish. Extent^ Boundaries. — It is 2 miles and 2 furlongs in length, and 2 miles and 1^ furlongs in breadth, and is of a compact form. The northern conterminous parish is Ayton ; the western, Chirn- side ; the southern, Hutton ; and the eastern, Mordington. The southern extremity is traced by the river Whitadder ; which is here remarkable for the depth of its bed, insomuch that its banks are from 120 to 150 feet in height. The hither bank is often inter- rupted by deep and wild ravines, some of which wind fully a mile northward. Traversing the parish from south to north, one meets first with a strong clay, then with a sandy loam, and lastly with cultivated moor. Climate, — As Foulden is highly cultivated in an agricultural point of view, as plantations and a chain of heights shelter it from every inclement blast, and as it slopes gently and continuously from its northern to its southern extremity, its people ought to be very healthy. Yet the former Statistical Account, founding, no doubt, on inadequate data, gives a very exaggerated representation of the salubrity of the parish. During my connection with it, malignant small -pox, scarlet fever, and influenza have prevailed in it In the year 1827, eleven of its inhabitants died ; and the average yearly mortality since has been five. II. — Civil History. Land-owners, — Four-fifths of the land is the property of John Wilkie, Esq. of Foulden : the rest belongs to Geo. Baillie, Esq. 262 BERWICKSHIRE. of Jerviswoode, and to Miss Wood of Nunlands. Nunlands is the least estate, but far above L. 50 in yearly value. Historical Notices. — On the 24th March 15&7i a conferenee was held in Foulden church between commissioners sent br Elizabeth of England to Scotland, and others appointed by our James VI. At this meeting were discussed the circumstances which, according to Elizabeth, vindicated her treatment of Maiy, and, in particular, her execution. Antiquities. — The only antiquity in Foulden which merits no- tice is an epitaph in the church-yard, dated 4th January 159*2. The person whom it commemorates must have been of some dis- tinction ; for traditionary accounts of his forays are still extant The epitaph is highly interesting as an excellent example of the quaintness of thought and style, so universal at the time at which it was written. HBIR . LIETH . ANE . IIOMORABIL . MAN . GBORG . < FIFE . FOSTRINO . PEACE . ME . BRED . FROM . THENCE . THE . MERGE . ME . CALD . THE . MERGE . TO . MARSIS . LAVIS . LED • TO . BYDE . HIS . BATTELI8 . BALD . n VERIED . VITH . VARES . AND . SORE . OPPREST R DEATH . GAVE . TO . MARS . THE . FOYL AND . NOV . I . HAVE . MORE . QVYET . REST . THAN . IN . MY . NATIVE . SOYL [FOVR FIFE . MERGE . mXrS . MORT . THESE . FATAL AL . HAIL . MY . DAYS . HE8 . DRIVEN . OVR • *^69l ^^^ ' f^ •aaj.MVJaa • oha • i^xsva > OB Q Q < Parochial Registers. — Tlie parochial registers have suffered mu- tilation, and had been long kept in a very slovenly manner. The earliest entry is dated 13th April 1682. III. — Population. In 1755, the population was 465 ; in 1793, it was 344 ; and, ac- cording to a census taken by me in July last, it was 395. Of the present population, 196 are males, and 199 are females : 73 reside in Foulden village, — the only village in the parish ; and 322 in the countrj' : 4 are bachelors or widowers above fifty years of age ; and 8 are single women upwards of 45 : 1, a very old woman, is blind ; and I is fatuous. The yearly average of births for the last seven years is 9 ; of deaths, 5 ; and of marriages, 3. The number of families in the parisli is - - > - 78 of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 55 chiefly employed in trade, manufiictures, or handicraft, 12 Custamsy Cliaracter^ 4'c. of the People. — Games, from being very common in the remembrance of inhabitants of middle age, have FOULDEN. 263 fallen into total disuse. One of these obsolete games I may par- ticularize, on account of the singularity of the goals. It was cele- brated, along with many others, on Pastern's eve. The villagers were opposed to the inhabitants of the country ; a large ball was tossed into the air midway between the parish church and mill ; and this the former strove to lodge in the church pulpity and the latter in the mill-happer. An ancient and odd, but local usage, called creeling^ is still kept up here. On an early evening after a newly-married couple have commenced house-keeping, the young men of the parish repair to their house; invite the bridegroom out, or, if he refuses, take the first opportunity of laying hold on him, and place a creel laden with stones on his back, with which he has to pace up and down, till the bride comes forth, and, cutting the cords, disencumbers him. By this ceremony are shadowed forth the cares which a man incurs by marrying, but of which it is in the power of a dutiful wife to lighten him. A gratuity, however, is given by all who can pay it, rather than be creeled. I presume that the actual load of matrimony is considered quite enough to be borne without the addition of this symbolical one. At the morning and evening meals of the peasantry, their staple is oatmeal porridge and milk ; their dinner consists of bread made from pease and barley, and of potatoes, seasoned with fat pork. Each family feeds at least two pigs a-year. Tea is getting more and more into use, and especially among the female heads of fami- lies ; a change which, from its cost, and for other obvious reasons, is much to be regretted. The peasantry here, — as throughout the county, — are religious and moral; and, in particular, there is scarce- ly an instance of habitual intemperance. Irregularity of marriage, from the facility and secrecy with which it can be contracted on the border, is very conmion. This has both its advantages and its evils ; an illegitimate birth, on the one hand, very seldom happening ; but, on the other hand, improvident and ill-assorted matches being often made. Though favourably circumstanced in respect of the comforts and advantages of society, and not discontented with their condition, yet emigration is remarkably prevalent. There is a general mis- apprehension, respecting the description of emigrants from among our rural population. From this parish, at least, they, for the most part, have been the robust, the enterprising, and the provident ; they have been eminently successful ; and the accounts sent home by them of their prosperity have extended the emigratory spirit. 264 BEEWICKSHIRE. IV. — Industry. The number of acres, standard imperial measure, in the parish is 2976. 330 acres have never been under the plough, and are in pasture ; the rest are arable, with the exception of 260, which are planted. Part of the wood in the vicinity of Foulden House is very old ; but the great bulk of it is of recent origin. The trees planted are oak, ash, elm, birch, sycamore, chesnut, spruce and Scotch fir. Rent of Land. — The highest rent of arable land per acre is L. 4, and the lowest is L. 1, 7s. Twelve years is the general duration of leases. Rdte of Wages. — The wages of a single farm-servant, living in his master's house, are L. 5 for the summer, and L. 4 for the win- ter ; those of a female are L. 5 for the one, and L. 2, 2s. for the other. The wages of a hind for the year are L. 4 in money, 10 bolls oats, 3 bolls barley, 1 boll pease or beans, 1600 yards of po- tatoes, a cow's food, and the cartage of his coals. His gains this year are valued at L. 21, 2s. He pays rent for his cottage, and this he does by providing one shearer. He is required to keep a bondager. The wages of a day-labourer are 9s. per week. Produce. — The average gross amount of wheat is 1416 bolls. barley, 1865 do. oats, 3633 do. beans, 451 do. The value of the wheat, according to the fiars of last spring, is L. 2300 ,0 barley, - - - 1748 8 oats, . . - 2452 beans, ... 406 potatoes and turnips, ... 1278 grass, - - - 2198' annual thinning and periodical felling of the woods, ' 175 The total yearly value of raw produce raised is - L. 10517 8 V. — Parochial Economy. The nearest market-town is Berwick, which is five miles distant; it is also the nearest post-town. Means of Communication. — The want of a bridge across the Whitadder (the nearest being five miles distant,) and of a more gradual access to the river, has been long and much felt This, however, is soon to be remedied. The plan of a bridge, and of a very preferable line of road to it, have been procured from Mr Jar- dine, civil-engineer ; and towards defraying the cost, which is es- timated at L. 2500, there have been subscribed from the bridge money of the county L. 500, and by the gentry L. 1500. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church was built in 1786. Il FOULDEN. 265 is placed in the heart of the parish, is in excellent repair, and the interior might be seated so as to accommodate the whole popula- tion. The manse was built in 1772; an addition was made to it in 1813. The site of the church and manse is peculiarly beauti- ful ; sheltered to the east and north by the stately and ancient trees within the pleasure grounds of Foulden House ; while the view to the south and west is rich and varied, and only bounded by the Cheviots and Eildons. The glebe is 8 acres in extent, and is let for L. 24 annually. The stipend is L. 59, 9s. dd. 38 b. 2 f. 2 p. 2f 1. barley, and 77 b. I f. 1 p. 1^ 1. oats. Those in connection with the Established church are 284, and the communicants at the last dispensation of the sacrament were 160. There are 106 Se- ceders, and 3 Catholics. Education. — The parochial school is the only one in the parish. The teacher has the legal accommodations, and the highest salary. The quarterly school fees are 7s. 6d. for Latin, Greek, and ma- thematics; 5s. for arithmetic; 4s. for reading and writing; and 3s. for reading alone. The yearly amount of fees actually paid is L. 10; and of other emoluments, L. 10. Education is universal, and duly appreciated. Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are 12 paupers, and their average monthly allowance is 8s. 2d. This is entirely defrayed by assessment; the church collections, with the exception of the sa- cramental ones, going to pay the precentor, beadle, and session- clerk. Repugnance to apply for parochial relief is very little felt, — the inevitable consequence of compulsory assessments ; which, nevertheless, under due regulations, is the best, and the only equit- able mode of supporting the necessitous. Inns^ Sfc. — There are no inns, alehouses, &c in the parish. For- merly two fairs were held at the village, and were much resorted to ; but now one only is held, and that, too, but nominally. The principal fuel is coal ; which is procured at Berwick, and costs 6d. per boll. A cart load, such as one horse can draw, is delivered for 6s. 7Jd. Upon the whole, the parish of Foulden has fully kept pace in improvement and embellishment with the rest of Berwickshire, since the last Statistical Account of it was written. October 1834. PARISH OF EDROM. PRESBYTERY OF CHIRNSIDE, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TIVIOTDAUE. THE REV. ALEX. CUTHBERTSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The ancient name of this parish was Aderham. It is still called Etherham by the commonalty. Ader comes from the Cambro-British word Awedur^ signifying running water, and ham in Anglo-Saxon, signifies a village. Aderham is thus the village, on the banks of the Ader, Extent J Boundaries. — The extreme length of the parish is 7^ miles; extreme breadth, 4 miles; mean length, 5^ miles; mean breadth, 2^ miles; extent in square miles, ld^§. * It is bounded on the west by the parishes of Dunse, Langton, and Polwarth ; on the south by Fogo, Swinton, and Whitsome ; on the east by Hutton and Chirnside ; and on the north by Buncle. The country is generally flat. The climate in this part of the country is now very good. Ague, which about forty years ago, before the practice of draining became general, was very prevalent, is now never heard of. Hydrography. — There is a mineral well in this parish called the Dunse Spa. It is situated in a valley which lies nearly a mile on the south side of Dunse, on the estate of Nisbet. This well was discovered accidentally in 1747. It was a place of very general resort for a considerable time ; but has long ceased to be so. A very full account of the composition and virtues of this water has been given by Dr Francis Home, in a treatise published in Edin- burgh, 1751. The well, however, is now entirely out of repute. There is likewise a mineral well on the estate of Blackadder, in a ravine near the banks of the Blackadder, and not far from the bridge on the eastern approach to Blackadder House from Allanton, — • I am indebted for this measurement, and for various other particulars relative to the Blackadder and Whitadder, and the extent of arable land in the parish, woods, &c. to Mr John Blackadder, land-surveyor, Blanerne, East Side. EDROM. 267 which some of the old residenters in AUanton resorted to in their younger days, and found beneficial in many instances. They call it the " Vertur" Well, meaning, probably, the well whose water has a medicinal virtue. The Whitadder bounds the parish on the north side, and runs the whole extent of the parish from west to east. The altitude of its source above the medium sea level is supposed to be 1 150 feet ; fall per mile, 82 feet, 10 inches; breadth, 85 yards. Length of Whitadder in Edrom parish, 6^ miles ; greatest height of Whit- adder in flood 9 feet above the ordinary level; average fall of Whitadder through Edrom parish, 23 feet per mile. From Broomhouse, the upper part of the parish, to the lower extremity of the parish, the fall of the Whitadder is 149 feet. It runs into the Tweed about two miles from Berwick. The length of the Blackadder water is 19 mites; supposed altitude at its source 1 1 30 feet above the medium sea level ; length within the parish of Edrom 6^ miles, flowing in a north-east direction, divid- ing the parish into two equal parts nearly ; breadth, 17 yards. The Blackadder falls into the Whitadder at the village of Allanton, in this parish. Geoh^andMifi/erahgy. — There is a shell-mart bog on the estate of Kinunerghame. The bog is of considerable extent : greatest depth 15 feet Machinery has been lately erected for draining off the water, and a very considerable quantity of marl has been taken from it; price Is. per cart load. A cubic yard of this marl b equal to a boll of lime. It does not operate so readily as lime, but it is more durable in its influence. In working the marl, several beavers' heads (one nearly entire) were found, and some deers' horns. One head was nearly complete, and was sent to Dr Barclay in Edinburgh. The rocks of this parish belong to a formation, the characters of which have not yet been precisely determined. It has not been ascertained whether they are members of the new red sandstone group, or are the lowermost beds of the Durham coal field. Va- rious facts may be adduced in support of these two theories, but it seems probable that they are of older date than the strata of the Durham coal field, and are a fresh water deposit. The rocks consist chiefly of clay, marl, and sandstone ; the first of these composing, perhaps, about two-thirds of the whole. The marl strata are in thin beds, never exceeding two or three feet in thickness. The sandstones are generally of a whitish colour, and sometimes ex- 268 BERWICKSHIRE. ceed twenty or thirty feet in thickness, as at Puttenmill, Kimmei^ hame, Greenknows. All the strata dip to the south-east, at a. smi angle of inclination, except at the west end of the parish, where thi have been ujjraised by a trap dike. A good section of these rod as affected by this cause, may be seen at the junction with tl Wliittadder, of the small burn which runs past Cumledge, about mile below Preston bridge. The strata are there elevated at ( angle of about 30°. The basis or lowermost beds of the BerwicI shire marl strata may be seen at the turn of the Whitadder, abo' the point last described. Beyond this point, the strata consi entirely of red sandstones resting on a conglomerate, which son geologists have described as belonging to the old red sandstot group. The only fossils discovered among the rocks of this parish, an contemporaneous with their formation, are vegetables. The n mains of neither shells nor animals have yet been found. The vt getable fossils are very much the same as found in the Mid-Liothia and Northumberland coal fields, consisting of impressions of Equ setae, &c. But besides these, an extensive deposit of fossil < petrified trees has lately been discovered, which, upon a botaDi cal examination of their structure, seem to belong to the Coni ferae. The water-worn appearance of the trunks, and the total afc sencc of branches and leaves, lead to the opinion that they hav been transported to their present situation by the force of ruiininj water. It is no small confirmation of this opinion, that these foa sils are found imbedded in a thick deposit of blue clay, which wa most probably thrown down by water in a state of mud. Th bark which envelopes these ancient trees has been converted int a black coal, probably from the original bark having been deprive* of its bituminous matter. There are in this district, the strongest proofs of the effects o the deluge, that vast flood by which our mountains were submei^d and the plains strewed with the records of its violence. Immens< boulders or erratic blocks may be seen in the alluvial soil that i: cut through by the river courses, which cannot have been derive* except from hills at a great distance. Among these boulders, then are some of mica-slate, a rock which does not occur nearer thai Cumberland, from the mountains of which these rolled massei were probably torn and transported. The direction in which, ai thus indicated, the waters of the deluge flowed, viz. from south- EDROM. 269 west to north-east, the reader will perceive, agrees entirely with the proofs otherwise and elsewhere derived as to the violence, ex- tent, and direction of the diluvial flood. Several specimens of these mica-slate boulders have been found at Blanerne east side. Notwithstanding the abundance of marl and clay in this parish, we are not aware that gypsum has been found in it, as in other parishes where the same formation occurs. II. — Civil History. Historical Notices, — The grave of Sir Anthony Darcy, sur- named Le Sieur de la Beauts, is in a field on the estate of Broom- house, in this parish, — called De la Beaute's field. Sir Anthony Darcy, commonly named Anthony de la Bastie, (properly De la Beauts) was a Frenchman, and was appointed by the Duke of Albany Warden of the Marches, and captain of Dunbar Castle, in the room of Lord Home, — when the Duke, who was regent in the minority of James V., went to France, June 1517. Lord Home had been treacherously decoyed to Edinburgh, and put to death, together with his brother William, as was supposed, by the instigation of Darcy. This rendered Darcy odious in the Merse. A dispute having arisen between him and David Home, the laird of Wedder- burn, Darcy and his party were attacked by the laird of Wedder- burn and his associates near Langton, October 12, 1517, and put to flight. Darcy's horse stuck fast in a bog in the end of Dunse Moor, — which obliged him to fly on foot. He was overtaken by Wedderburn at Broomhouse, who slew him, and carrying his head in triumph through Dunse, fixed it on the battlements of Home Castle.* A cairn marks out the grave of Darcy. One of the largest meetings of the Covenanters took place at East Nisbet, in this parish, (subsequently called AUanbank, and now called Bighouse,) in 1674. They were convened for the pur- pose of celebrating the Lord's Supper. They assembled on the banks of the Whitadder, about one mile south of Chirnside, where 3200 communicated. The Rev. Mr Blackadder, Mr Welsh, Mr Riddel, Mr Rae, and Mr Dickson officiated. Tlie Earl of Home threatened an attack upon them, but the meeting passed off* with- out molestation. Parochial Registers. — The early registers of this parish have '* A particular account of all the circumstances which led to the death of Darcy is given in an old manuscript in the possession of the present proprietor of Wedder- burn, a copy of which is in the possession of Colonel Home of Broomhouse. 270 BERWICKHSHIRE. been lost. The only account which I have heard of them is^ thai they were accidentally burned a long time ago. The reg^ister of baptisms commences in 1720; register of marriages, in 1783. In the register of burials, there are only a few entries. In all of the registers, there are mutilations till 1801, — from which period the re- gister of births and baptisms has been regularly kept. This re- gister, however, is far from being complete in regard to births. Land-owners. — There are nine landed proprietors. George Lo- - gan, Esq. of Edrom ; John Carnegie, Esq. of New Edrom-; Co- lonel Home of Broomhouse ; Greorge Buchan, Esq. of Kelloe ; Alexander Dudgeon, Esq. of St Helens ; Miss Boswall of Black- adder ; James Bonar, Esq. of Kinunerghame ; Lord Sinclair of Nisbet; Major Mackay of Bighouse, formerly called East Nisbet, and afterwards Allanbank. The valued rents of these estates are as follows : — Soots. Kimmerghamcy Blackadder, JL 2224 14 9^ 209S 4 e^' Nisbety 1824 9 7 Allanbank or Bighouse, 1802 6 11 KeUoe, 1096 7 1 Edrom, 486 3 116 Broomhouse, 266 2 II New Edrom, 234 2 3« Reedyloch, 100 15 7« A considerable number of houses at AUanton, with gardens at- tached, are feus granted by the proprietor of Allanbank a consi- derable time ago. In ancient times, there were castles at Nisbet, Blackadder, and Broomhouse. Upon the property of Kelloe there is a square of cottages called Kelloe Bastle, — which was the site of the bastelly or keep, in ancient times. There were several build- ings of this kind in this district. Mansion Houses. — The mansion house on the estate of Broom- house was built by the present proprietor. Colonel Home, in 1813, on the site of the ancient castle. Several skeletons were found in digging the foundation : and a stone coffin, with an entire skeleton, was discovered several years ago, in a field adjoining to that which contains the grave of Sir Anthony de la Beauts. — The mansion house of Nisbet is a fine old building, likewise in the castellated form. — Kimmerghame House is old, but its situation on the banks of the Blackadder is beautiful. On these banks are also situated the mansions of Kelloe, and Bighouse, and Blackadder House. At Blackadder House there is a conservatory in the form of a Gothic EDROM, 271 chapel, the frame work of which is entirely of cast iron. Part of the glass is beautifully stained. It was erected by Thomas Bos- wall, Esq., the late proprietor, and cost several thousand pounds. The situation of Edrom House and the parish church is very beau- tiful. The lands all around are in a state of high cultivation, en- riched with plantations and hedge-rows ; and, in the distance, there are the upland scenery of Dunse Law, Cockbum Law, and the sweep of the Lammermoor Hills, and the Cheviots. Mills, — There are four corn-mills in the parish on the Black- adder Water, — Bighouse mill, Blackadder, Nisbet, and Kimmer- ghame. At Kimmerghame and Bighouse mill, there is conjoined to the corn-mill a saw-mill, where a good deal of wood is cut for rural purposes. Paper-Mills. — There are two paper-mills on the Whitadder. That of Broomhouse is on a very extensive scale. The number of hands employed is 56, male and female ; and the hours of work are ten per day. Printing-paper is chiefly manufactured. The people are healthy, sober, and every way decent in their conduct At Allanbank paper-mill, binding boards are manufactured : and the number of hands employed is 25 for eight hours a-day. Men's wages are 14s. per week : women's, lOd. per day. The people here are equally correct in their conduct as those at the other paper-mill. — A lint-mill and a wheel-wright-mill are mentioned in the former Statistical Account; but these have been discontinued for a good many years. HL — Population. The population of this parish, by former Statistical Account, was, in 1733, about 1000 Catecbisable persons, ...... 800 In 1755, total amount of population, ..... 898 In 1791, 1388 In 1801, 1355 In 1811, - ' 1356 In 1821 * - 1516 In 1831, Tillage of Allanton, - - . - - - 258 country part, ..-.-- 1177 Total, - - 1435 Several families emigrated this spring to Upper Canada ; some from the village of Allanton, and some from the country part of the parish. There are two insane persons maintained by the parish at a weekly allowance. Habits of the People, — The people generally live in a very com- fortable manner. They are honest, contented, sober-minded, and 272 BERWICKSHIRE. well-affected to both church and state. There are not many in- stances of poaching in game and salmon. About forty or fifty years ago there was a good deal of smuggling in this district, of brandy, gin, teas, &c. ; but now this is entirely unknown. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The number of Imperial acres in the parish, arable, - - 7579 Under wood, - - - - 580 In roads, - - - - ^ farm-buildings and gentlemen's seats, 60 ^ water, Blackadder and Whitadder, - 82 821 ToUl imperial acres in the parish, - - 8400 By Mr JohnBlackadder's survey, there are. J under crop, - - 3031 Id y under grass, - - - 3081t(T J under fallow and turnip, - 1515il) Acres, 7579 A considerable quantity of fir and hard-wood is cut yearly on some of the estates in the parish. On one estate the wood cut and sold for a considerable number of years past, has brought L. 300 per annum. Rent of Land, — The average rent of land per acre is about L. 1, 5s. ; the minimum price from 13s. to 15s. per acre; the best * land L. 2 per acre; some very good land, L. 2, 10s. and upwards. The farms are in general large in this parish, and vary in rental from L. 400 to L. 1000. The rental of the parish at the time of the former Statistical Account was L. 6493 ; at present, it is about L. 15,200. The average rent for grazing a cow or an ox is about L.4. Husbandry. — The general length of leases is nineteen years ; And the general routine of cropping is a four or five years' course. The five-course system is now more generally followed. The four- course is too severe for most kinds of lands. The whole land in the parish is in a state of good cultivation, enclosed, and pretty well-drained ; and the practice of drainino- is kept up. A great many improvements have lately been made on the estate of Kimmerghame, as to farm-buildings, young planta- tions, &c. ; and on the other estates, a similar spirit of improve- ment and attention to the comfort of the agricultural population have been evinced. EDROM. 273 The farm buildings are in general good, the enclosures well kept, and the woods and plantations carefully managed. Sheep and cattle of various breeds are fed in the parish, besides those bred in it, viz. a cross between the Leicester ram and Che- viot ewe, and the north country kyloes. The practice of feeding cattle is more prevalent in this parish than that of breeding them. Rate of Wages, — The wages of men-servants for farm purposes, are, from L. 3 to L. 5 per half-year, with board. Women's wages, with board, from L. 4 to L. 5 in the summer, and L. 2 in the winter. Boy's wages per half year, from L. 2 to L. 3. A labour- er's wages, winter and summer, are 9s. per week ; at some sea- sons, and for particular work, 10s. per week. Mason's wages 3s. per day ; carpenter's 2s. 6d. without victuals. Smiths are in gene- ral paid from L. 1, 15s. to L. 3 per annum, for a pair of horses kept in shoes, and plough and harrows kept in repair. It may be proper to contrast these rates with those that prevail- ed at the time of the last Statistical Account. A labourer's wages were then from lOd. to Is. per day ; mason's and carpen- ter's Is. 6d. ; tailor's 6d. and victuals. Male servants employed in husbandrj', 50s. or L. 3 per half year, with their board ; female servants from 30s. to L. 2. Prices of Provisions, — The price of butcher meat is now, and for a considerable time past has been, from 5d. to 7d. per lb. Butter from 7d. to 8d. Cheese according to its quality, from 4d. to 6d. and 7d. In this part of the country very little butter and cheese are made. No more milch cows are kept than what are necessary for the use of the families themselves. It is more profitable, from the mode of agriculture pursued here, to buy stock than to rear it There are 206 work-horses- in the parish ; 35 riding horses and coach horses, ; 25 brood mares. For these statute-labour money is paid, at the rate of 7s. 6d. for each horse, and 3s. 9d. for each brood mare. Farm-servants for whom road-money is paid, are 128 in number, the payment for each being 3s. ; householders who pay road-money, are 42 in number, each paying 38. The amount raised from this source, and applied to the keeping of the parish roads in repair, is L. 120 per annum. It may be noticed, that the best kind of plough made in Scot- land was invented by James Small, who resided in this parish. Produce, — The total value of the raw produce raised in the pa- rish is, as near as I have been able to estimate it, about L. 32,500 Sterling per annum. BERWICK. s 274 BERWICKSHIRE. Quarries. — There are four good freestone quarries in the pa- rish, one of which is a sale quarry, V. — Parochial Economy. Dunse is the nearest market-town, — distant from this parish about three and a-half miles. Allanton is the only village in the parish, — about three miles from Edrom. Means of Communication. — We have a regular conveyance for letters and newspapers by Dunse and Ayton. The length of the public roads in the parish, including turnpikes and parish roads, is twentv-five miles. A public coach runs between Dunse and Ber- wick in the summer season thrice a-week, and sometimes every lawful day. Carriers from Dunse to Berwick pass Edrom every day in the week : there is a daily coach from Dunse to Edinburgh, besides regular carriers. There is one bridge over the Whitadder, called Chirnside Bridge ; and another over the Whitadder at Al- lanton is very much needed. There are also two bridges over the Blackadder in this parish, — one, called the Mouth Bridge, on the road from Dunse to the south Berwick road ; the other at Kimmer- ghame. Farther, there are two wooden bridges over the Blackad- der for foot-passengers. Com-Markets. — There is a weekly corn-market in Dunse every Wednesday. The sales are by sample ; but the principal com market is Berwick, which is held every Saturday. The corn is shipped to London, sometimes to Edinburgh. Some farmers drive their grain to Dunbar and Dalkeith, and frequently lime is brought back by the returning carts. Sheep and cattle are mostly driven south to Morpeth; but son\e to the Dalkeith and Edin- burgh markets. There are fairs, besides, in the neighbourhood for the sale of cattle, and there is a monthly market at Ck)ldstream. Ecclesiastical State.* — '^ The present church of Edrom was built in 1732, and has since been repaired. It is a long building, a gallery at each end and a gallery in front of the pulpit, and ano- ther gallery immediately behind the pulpit. The gallery in front is over the burying vault of the Kelloe family, the gallery behind • " The lands and church of Ederham with Nisbet were granted to St Cuthbert's monks by Gospatrick Earl of Dunbar, and confirmed in 1 139 by David I. In 11 50 the donation of Gospatrick was confirmed by Robert Bishop of St Andrew's, in the presence of the Synod at Berwick town, and it was also confirmed by Bishop Richard, who ruled the see of St Andrew's from 1 16^ to 1 177. Richard also granted in favour of the prior of Coldingham the investiture of the church of Ederham. In the ancient laraiio the church of Ederham was rated at no less than 100 marks. Ederham was, of course, a vicarage till the Reformation, and, William de Chatton, vicaire de Teglise de Ederham, swore fealty to Edward I. 24th August 1296, at Berwick town.** — Chalmers* Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 357. 3 EDROM. 275 the pulpit is over the Blackader burying vault. Robert Blackad- er, first Archbishop of Glasgow, whose family derived its surname from Blackader in Ederham parish, built a vaulted isle to the an- cient church." — Redpath's Border History, p. 473. Part of this ancient vault is slill standing. On the south-west corner of the Blackadder aisle, over which is the gallery already mentioned, there is a stone with this inscription : " Founded by Robert Blackader, Archbishop of Glasgow, in the year 1499." On the south-east corner of the ,same aisle, there is a stone with this in- scription : " Repaired by S. John Home of Blackader, in the year 1696." These two corners are evidently much older than the rest of the aisle, which probably was built and connected with the church in the manner already mentioned, when the church was built in 1732, or subsequently. " During the minority of James V., the most murderous con- tests for the lands of Blackader continued between the Blackad- ers of Blackader, and the Homes, which finally ended in the fa- vour of the Homes, by violence against right" — Chalmers' Cale- donia. The church may accommodate about 450 persons. A range of stables has been built on the north side of the church-yard, for the accommodation of the horses of heritors and tenants during the time of divine service. It is remarkable that in this church- yard, as in almost all the churchyards of the neighbourhood, all the interments are on the south side of the church ; and none on the north side. There seems to have been a prejudice of old against burying on the north side of a church. The old manse and glebe were situated near the church, and still more near to the mansion-house of Edrom. But the proprie- tor of Edrom, Mr Breimer, being desirous to have them removed to a farther distance from his house, effected an excambion in 1760. The present manse was then built, and the repairs since that time have been trifling. The present glebe is about the same extent as the old, — namely, ten acres. The exchange was satis- factory to Mr William Redpath, who was then the minister of the parish, and it was gone about, so far as I have been able to learn, in the usual way; but there must have been a mistake; for the old glebe is of as good land as any in the parish or county, and one acre of it is worth three acres of the present. The pre- sent glebe was at the time of the exchange a moor covered with heath, with a swamp at the lower end ; and though it has since 276 BERWICKSHIRE. been much improved, a different equivalent ought to have been obtained. The stipend is 16 chalders, half oatmeal and half barley, pay- able according to the fiars prices of the county. In 1755, the stipend was L. 76, 14s. 5d. : in 1798, L. 120, lis. 6d.; at the time of the former Statistical Account L. 1 10 Sterling, including the value which was put on the glebe. There are no chapels of ease in this parish; and there is no need of any, — though the church is very inconveniently placed for the parish, and by no means in a central situation. Divine service at the parish church is generally well attended. The proprietors are mostly resident, and we have a most respectable tenantry. The average number of communicants is about 350. Of the propor- tion of the parishioners belonging to the Established church and to the Dissenters, no precise account can be given, because a con- siderable number of the latter belong to the shifting class of farm- servants. I would conjecture, however, that the number of Dis- senting heads of families may be about 55.* The heritors and their families are almost all annual subscribers to Societies for religious and charitable purposes; and generally in the summer season we have a collection in the church for some religious or charitable object. Our collection last year for the Highland Schools under the management of the General Assem* bly was L. 14, 18s. Sterling. Education. — There are three schools in the parish, — the paro- chial and two private schools. The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum salary, a very good house, and an allowance in lieu of garden. His school-fees probably do not exceed L. 5 a-year. One of the private schools is at Allanton. The Blackadder fa- mily give a school-house and a dwelling-house for the teacher, and a salary of L. 10 per annum. The other private school is at Kimmer- ghame. The proprietor of Kimmerghame gives a school and a dwelling-house and garden for the master, and a salary of L. 10 per annum. The parish school has on an average about 45 scholars; the * There was, till within these few years, when it was ploughed up, an old burying, ground on the estate of Kimmerghame, where there is also a field, called the Cha- pel-field. There was likewise a chapel on the estate of East Nisbct, subsequently called Allanbank, now Bighouse. near the siK)t where the large meeting of Covenanters fonnerly mentioned was held. Some of the foundation stones have been lately ploughed up, but I have not been able to get any more authentic particulars al)out it. There are likewise on the same estate the remains of a cam]) : but the field has l>cen so long under the plough that the form is not very perceptible. EDROM. 277 private schools about 70 each. * The same branches are taught in all the schools — Latin, Greek when required, mathematics, and French; together with the ordinary brandies of education, English reading and English grammar, writing, arithmetic, and geogra- The school fees are nearly the same in alL The wages for scholars under seven years of age is 10s. per annum, or 2s. 6d. per quarter; under ten years, 12s. per annum; above ten years, 16s. per annum, or 4s. per quarter. The wages advance after this ac- cording to the number of branches taught. There are none in this parish who are not sent to school ; and, from the situation of the parochial and private schools, no part of the parish is at so great a distance from school as to make it any hardship for the children to attend regularly in summer and winter. Libraries. — There are two or three small libraries in the parish for young people. CharitMe and other Institutions, — Some of the parishioners are connected with Friendly Societies in Dunse and elsewhere; but this mode of obtaining assistance, in case of sickness and old age, is not so much attended to as it ought. Savings Bank. — There is a savings bank in Dunse for this and the neighbouring parishes. The deposits a few years ago were considerable, but they have fallen off to a few pounds a year. One reason for this falling off may be the reduced rate of interest. Five per cent, was the rate of interest given, till within these two or three years, when it was reduced to two and a-half per cent. Another reason may be the fall in the prices of labour. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 30, — at the time of the former Statistical Account, it was 12. The allowance to each at an average, is 2s. per week. The assessment is about L. 150 per annum : at the time of the former Statistical Account, it was L. 10. The collec- tions at the church, and from the letting of a hearse and the use of a mortcloth, have amounted, for a great many years past, to L. 25 or L. 30 per annum. The collection at the church door has of late, however, considerably fallen off, in consequence of the assessment. The sum of L. 5 a-year is paid to the kirk-session for the behoof of the industrious poor on the estate of Nisbet, — being * The number of scholars at the parish sc1uh>1 is necessarily much smaller than i.i the private schools, from the situation of the parish school, which is at a corner of the parish, and hemmed in by the river ^Vhiladder. 278 BERWICKSHIRE. the produce of a sum of money left by the late Mrs Carre of Nis- bet for that purpose. In all, the sum expended in the support of the poor in this parish is about L. 175 or L. 180 per annum. It will be seen, therefore, that the increase of the assessment during last forty years has'greatly exceeded that of the population. Inns. — There are three inns in the village of Allanton, and one at Mountpleasant, on the estate of Kimmerghame. They have decidedly a bad effect on the habits and morals of the people. Fuel. — Coals are the fuel used in the parish. They are brought from the county of Northumberland, a distance of thirteen miles; and from Eyemouth, a distance of about ten miles. The coals got at Eyemouth are brought by sea from Newcastle and from Fife. Miscellaneous Observations. Agriculture in all its branches has been vastly improved since the time of the last Statistical Account. There are now no infield and outfield lands, — no moor lands set apart for the casting of turf for fuel, — no swamps — no ague. A considerable quantity of land has been planted : and the parish roads have been greatly improved, par*- ticularly of late years. In 1 759, the first act was passed anent turn- pike roads and toll-bars in Berwickshire. The next act of Par- liament on that subject was in 1787, to which there was great op- position. The general mode of carriage by all the parish roads at that time was on horseback, with panniers. Such a thing is now never seen, except, indeed, in the case of muggers, who still tra- verse this part of the country in gangs during the summer season.* The roads are so good now in all this part of Berwickshire, that a ton and upwards is the usual load of carriers drawn by one horse, and no person grumbles at the toll-bars. Two horses, one in the trams of the cart, and one in front, are generally employed by the farmers. To show the change of times, I may mention, that I have in my possession the valuation of one of the largest properties in the pa- rish, proposed to be sold in 1748, the free rental of which at that time was L. 320 Sterling. The rental of the same lands at pre- sent is about L. 2500 Sterling. • A head constable has been appointed lately for the county, — one of whose duties is to prevent the itinerating of muggers in the county : and since this appointment very few muggers have been seen in this quarter. November 1834. PARISH OF COLDINGHAM, « PRESBYTERY OF CHIRNSIDE, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TIVIOTDALE, THE REV. JAMES HOME ROBERTSON, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The origin of the name Coldingham cannot be dis- tinctly traced. It is inost probably Saxon; in which language Ham signifies a village, Col-den a cold vale, — these terms correctly describing the situation of the present village, which is much expos- ed to cold winds from the east and north-east. « Extent and Bovndaries. — The parish is of great extent, and of a very irregular figure ; — its extreme length from east to west being 12 miles; its breadth 9. It comprehends about 57,600 impe- rial acres, upwards of 5000 of which, termed Coldingham com- mon, are moorland, scarcely capable of cultivation. It is bound- ed on the north-east and north by the German Ocean, and the opening into the Firth of Forth at St Abb's Head ; on the north- west and west by Cockburnspath parish ; on the south-west by the parishes of Abbey St Bathans and Bunkle ; on the south by Chirnside ; and on south-east and east by the parishes of Ayton and Eyemouth. It is still one of the largest parishes in the county of Berwick, and previous to the Reformation it comprehended most of the pa- rishes just mentioned as at present constituting its boundaries. It was then termed in its charters Coldinghamshire, It is very un- even in its surface. A range of hills forming part of the Lammer- moor range runs in parallel lines from east to west, intersected by valleys of considerable extent, and by numerous small streams. None of these hills are of great elevation ; the highest, Wardlaw Bank, is 640 feet above the level of the sea ; and the largest of these streams is the Eye, which, after traversing the whole length of the parish, falls into the sea at Eyemouth. CaveSf Sfc. — Numerous caves and fissures, formerly the haunts of smugglers, exist in the neighbourhood of St Abb's Head, some of these of considerable dimensions, excavated out of the solid rock, 280 BBawiCKSHIBE. are inaccessible by land, and can only be approached at low w and in the calmest weather. Their narrow entrances are < pletely blocked up by the rising tide, and a gentle breeze fron cast speedily creates a dangerous surf. About a mile west from St Abb's Head Lies Coddingham 1 which covers thirty acres of ground, is 300 feet above the levi the sea, and about 300 yards distont from it The l»te Mr B Professor of Astronomy in the Kdinbui^h University, attemj to ornament a small portion of its sloping banks with trees, bu high situation and contiguity to the sea rendered his efforts availing. The only iish in this lake are perch, with which it abou Gtology. — The parish of Coldingham is neb in various dep ments of natural history, particularly in that of geology. In part of the kingdom are there more striking displays of stratif tioii, or more singular and perplexing appearances, than along magnificent sea-coast. The rocks throughout the whole exteo the parish belong to the transition class. Greywacke and gi wacke slate are the prevailing minerals. Generally the str are either vertical or inclined at a very great angle with the \ rizon, their general direction being from east to west. T stratification of this rock is seen to great advantage in the neij bourhood of Redheugli, but it is interrupted by rocks of trap St Abb's Head, which, however, extend a very short way inla St Abb's ilsctf may bo described as a huge insulated mass of ti rocks, of which the principal are trap-tuffa, amygdaloid, and fels] porphyry. These conlinue for some miles along the coast towai the east, inlcrrupted by occasional displays of the older strata, we reach the mouth of the river Eye, when the greywacke ag; presents itself. Botany. — A very lengthened catalogue of plants might be gii as indigenous to this parish. Cryptogamous plants are particula abundant. A great variety of mosses, and many individuals of I order Felices, are also to be met with. Among the phenogamo plants WG may mention the following as the most rare: Aretuu vema, growing in great abundance on the trap rocks on St Ab Head ; lihodiola rosea, to be found in great beauty in Lumsd dean ; also Epilobium anynstijolium, decidedly wild ; Poterii sanyiiisorba near, and Nuphar lulea in Coldingham Loch ; Glo cium maritimum on Coldingham sands, growing in company wi the Cytioglosmm officinale; Alisma rMiuiiculoides in the moss the foot of St Abb's Head ; Arwidt} pltrayniifet, Betanica offi» COLDINGHAM. 281 tuiliSf Menyanthes trifoliatay Tormentilla reptans^ Pyrola rotandi- folittj Pyrola mediae DiarUhus deltoidesy Genista Anglica, Fedia olitoria^ Gentiana campestris^ TroUius EuropcBus^ Lythrum salica- Ha, Pamassia palustris, Solanum dulcamara, S^c. IL — Civil History. 5^ Abb. — About the beginning of the seventh century, Ebba, daughter of Ethelfrith, and sister to the celebrated Osway, both Kings of Northumberland, fled from Penda, King of Mercia, who was desirous to marry her, and seize her father's kingdom. Hav- ing embraced Christianity, she abhorred an alliance with a pagan, and resolved to escape from his entreaties and his violence. The vessel in which she embarked was driven ashore in a storm on that promontory which from her derives its name, St Abb. There she built a nunnerv. A few of the foundation stones still stand on the verge of a rock overhanging the sea. Nowhere could she have found a more suitable situation for such a purpose. Remote from the world, the surrounding scenery is in harmony with every devout feeling. The neck of land, five acres in extent, on which it was built, stretches into the sea, having for its three sides perpendicular rocks of great elevation. The fourth side, by which alone an enemy could have approached, was cut off from the mainland, and rendered im- pregnable by a high wall and deep trench, while the immense height and ruggednes&of the stupendous rocks by which it was surrounded, the overhanging precipices on which it stood, the dark caverns yawn- ing beneath, the boundless expanse of ocean stretching in front, elevate the soul, and excite a religious tone of feeling. In a storm the situation is sublime in the extreme. The walls are drenched, and the atmosphere darkened by the spray. The building trembles to its foundation at the beating of the surge upon the precipice where it stands. A wild waste of broken waters rolls over the mighty masses of rock that lie scattered around, or, dashing with a stunning sound against the headland of St Abb's, shoot into the air. Here, amidst the greatest and grandest of nature's works, was the nunnery of St Abba founded. It is recorded in history, that the abbess and her nuns, about the year 837, to escape the licentiousness of the Danes, disfigured their faces by cutting off their upper lips and noses ; but that the cruel invaders, unmoved by this act of devoted heroism, burnt the nunnery to the ground with all its inhabitants. The chapel of this nunnery and the cemetery which surrounded it, stood a mile to the east, on another mount. Little of them now remains; but the old inhabitants remember when 282 BERWICKSHIRE. a considerable part of the wall and a semicircular arch was pulled down, and when the surrounding ground was used as a place of burial. * Coldingham Priory was founded about the year 1098 by Edgar, King of Scotland, who, having been driven from his throne, fled into England, and obtained from William Rufus 30,000 men, and from the Abbot of Durham the banner of St Cuthbert, to assist him in subduing his rebellious subjects. He afterwards consider- ed he was as much indebted for his success to the banner and the priests, as to the King and his soldiers ; and as a proof of his grar titude, he founded the church of St Mary Coldingham, had it constituted a cell of Durham, and bestowed on it the lands of Pax- ton, Fishwick, and the village of Swinton. The several kings, from Edgar, its founder, to James L regarded this priory with peculiar favour, and enriched it with valuable gifts and important privileges; but in the feeble reign of Robert IIL, and under the regency of the Duke of Albany, the kingdom being torn by faction, the monks found it necessary to put themselves under the protection of the powerful family of Douglas, who ap- pointed Alexander, the Laird of Home, under-keeper ; and thus commenced a connection between the family of Home and the priory of Coldingham, which terminated in that family obtaining all the temporalities of the priory. James HI. endeavoured to suppress the monaster)', and obtained the consent of his Parlia- ment to apply its revenues to the support of the chapel-royal, which he founded at Stirling. The Homes, in consequence, re- belled, and a battle was fought near Stirling, in which the king was slain, 11th June 1488. In 1509 Coldingham was disjoined from Durham, and placed under the jurisdiction of Dunfermline by the Pope. Alexander Stewart, natural son of James IV. Abbot of Dunfermline, and Archbishop of St Andrews, was chosen prior. He was afterwards slain, fighting by the side of his father, on the fatal field of Flodden. In 1514, this high office was conferred on David Home, brother of Lord Home, who was succeeded by Wil- liam Douglas, brother of the Earl of Angus. Adam, the next prior, was removed in 1541 to Dundrcnnan, to make room for John Stewart,, the infant and natural son of James V., who was appointed commcndator, while his father enjoyed the revenue. In • nic history of Coldingham Priory occupies a prominent j)lace in the history of the south of Scotland ; and we must refer the reader who feels interested in the for- tunes of this still celebrated, once rich and powerful, priory, to Chahners* Caledonia^ Kedi)ath's Border History, and to Ilaine*s History of North Durham. COLDINGHAM. 283 November 1544, the English seized the abbey, and fortified it so strongly, that all the efforts of the Earl of Arran, Regent of Scot- land, failed to reduce it In 1545 it was burnt by the Earl of Hertford, and never afterwards regained its former wealth and con- sequence. John Stewart, commendator, who married Lady Jane Hepburn, sister of the well-known Earl of Both well, died in 1563, leaving two sons, Francis and John, on the eldest of whom James VL again bestowed the commendatorship of Coldingham. Fran- cis, like his father, having rebelled against his kinsman and bene- factor, the whole of the temporalities were taken from him and bestowed upon the Earl of Home. On the earl's death in 1619, John, the second son of Francis, who had been created Earl of Bothwell, was appointed commendator. This worthless and pro- fligate individual, in order to procure the means of supporting him- self in his career of dissipation and extravagance, alienated in small lots, all the lands which had hitherto remained attached to the priory, and from him the numerous small proprietors in the imme- diate neighbourhood of the church and village received the charters by which they continue to hold their property. Of this most an- cient and richly endowed monastery nothing now remained but its magnificent church, and the extensive buildings by which it was surrounded. It was left to Oliver Cromwell to complete its final overthrow, as he passed through Berwickshire to attack the army of the Scots. A strong body of the inhabitants of the district, who were generally Episcopalians and royalists, established and fortified themselves in the church and tower, in which their fore- fathers had successfully defended themselves against the Earls of Arran and Angus. The first detachment of troops which Crom- well sent, was repulsed with loss, and he was forced to bring up se- veral pieces of cannon, which in two days shook the tower, and compelled its defenders to capitulate. He afterwards, that he might leave no means of annoyance in his rear, blew up the church, leaving only the north wall and east gable. The tower was nine- ty feet in height, and formed the north-west corner of the northern transept of the church. It continued in a very precarious state, till it fell about sixty years ago, and not a stone of it now remains. The north wall and east gable of the present church form the whole that reihains of this ancient monastery, founded upwards of 700 years ago. They afford beautitil specimens of the transi- tion from the Norman to the early English style of architecture. A number of circular arches, each two divided with an intercolum- 284 BERWICKSIRE. niation, ornamented the whole of the north wall, resting on oor- bals, and having richly adorned canopies; but about sixty years ago, with most barbarous taste, the shafts of the arches were cut away, which greatly disfigured the interior aspect of the church. Above these still remain entire five windows of beautiful workman- ship, nearly approaching to the lancet figure, and twenty-six plain and clustered shafts, with capitals of difierent forms, and ornament- ed with various kinds of foliage. Behind these runs a narrow cor- ridor extending the whole length of the church. The exterior of what remains of the old monastery is remarkable for its beautiful simplicity. The design of the exterior corresponds with the interior. Below is a series of coupled Norman arches embellished with the Chiffron moulding. Above are lancet-shaped Gothic windows, with columns at the sides. The remains of several arches surround the building, and only a few years have elapsed since others were torn down for the sake of the stones. The Prior holding rank as a baron had the right of pit and gallows. The pit was situated a little to the east of the present church, and was filled up so late as 1800 ; the gallows stood upon a little hill about a mile distant, and is still called Gallowside. A quantity of bones, forming an artificial mound, were dug up here twenty-five years ago. Previous to the Reformation, the priors and monks of Coldingham had ac- quired the churches of Coldingham, Aldecamus, Ayton, Fish- wick, Knapdcn, Corvendean, Edenham, Swinton, Nisbet, Ber- wick, Mordington, Lamberton, Ederham, Ercildoun, Smallhoni, Stitchol, with the chapels of Newton, Nenthorn, and others. The revenues of the priory were variously stated ; but the following account from Lauchlan Shaw's Manuscript may be considered as nearest the truth: money, L. 818, 10s. 9d. ; wheat, 6 chalders, 7 bolls, 3 firlots, 2 pecks; bear, 19 chalders, 12 bolls, 1 firlot, 2 pecks ; oats, 56 chalders, 8 bolls, 2 firlots ; peas, 3 chalders, 13 bolls, 2 firlots ; and a right to a number of kain fowls, services and carriages from their vassals. By the charters of Alexander II., they hud a right of warren and forestry over the extensive waste now called Coldingham Moor, with all the woods and forests adjoining, which charters may be seen at length in Mr Raine's Historj' of Northumberland. Antiquities. — There are some vestiges of a Roman camp on a hill west of St Al)b's Head, and of a British camp on the summit of Ernsheuch, surrounded on three of its sides by lofty precipices. On the top of Wardlae Bank hill is another British camp, with COLDINGHAM. 285 four rows of circular trenches. There is also a large Roman camj) on its north-west side, two sides of which have been level- led ; but two still remain undisturbed by the plough. The sta- tions of the centinels on the brow of the hill may be distinctly seen. Two miles to the west of St Abb's Head is Fast- Castle, built upon a peninsular rock jutting into the sea. The narrow neck which joins it to the land had been cut down almost to the level of the sea, and a draw-bridge was thrown over it, rendering it almost impregnable. The building, which is in ruins, forms one of the most striking and picturesque objects in the county, and is much resorted to by strangers, both on its own account and for the splendid view from the hill immediately above it, which presents the boundless extent of the German Ocean, rolling farther than the eye can reach, the fertile shores of Fife and the Lothians, the distant hills of Stirling and Perthshire, the numerous vessels passing and repassing, the nigged shores and massy rocks of St Abb's Head, — all forming a scene so vast and diversified — so near and so remote — that the imagination can add nothing to its splen- dour. As might have been expected, from the contiguity to the English border, there were in former days numerous strongholds in this parish, few vestiges of which now remain. Such was Lang- ton Tower, Heughhead, Rentonand Houndwood, the last of which was the hunting seat of the prior. Lojid-owners. — The parish is divided among 59 heritors, 11 of whom have about L. 400 Scots valuation, among whom are For- man Home, Esq. of Billy ; Henry Home Drummond of Blair Dnimmond ; Sir John Hall, Bart of Dunglass ; Sir Samuel Stir- ling, Bart, of Ren ton ; Mrs Coulson of Houndwood ; William Hume, Esq., of Fairlaw ; Williaip Hood, Esq. of Sunnyside; Wil- liam Macintyre, Esq. of Templehall ; Thomas Weir, Esq. of Bo- gan Green ; William Dickson, Esq. of Whitecross ; John Fuller, Esq. of Hallydown ; the Rev. Edward Sandys Lumsden of Lums- den ; Thomas Henderson, Esq. of Press. 13 heritors have from L. 400 to L. 100, and 35 have from L. 100 to L. 1, Os. lOd., all Scots money : 36 proprietors of land have upwards of the yearly value of L. 50 Sterling. It is much to be regretted that there is no magistrate in the parish, and few residing heritors, to whom the poor might apply for temporary relief, the oppressed for assistance, the ignorant for advice. Parochial Registers. — The first entry in the parochial regis- ter of the parish was in 1694, when John Dysart was the first 286 BERWICKSHIRE. Presbyterian minister after the Reformation: the register has since been regularly kept* III. — Population. In 1801, . 2391 IvSll, - - 2424 1821, - - 2675 1831, - - 2668 The number of families in the parish, ... £{ chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 270 chiefly employed in trade, manufitcturet, or handicraftf 131 The number of illegitimate births in the parish during last three years was 13. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — The number of acres in this parish, at once so large and so irregular, cannot be correctly as- certained ; but these may be about 57,000, of which 5000 or 6000 are moorland. It is supposed that there are 100 acres of natural wood, and 400 of plantations. The indigenous wood consists prin- cipally of oak, elm, and birch. No additional land could be pro- fitably brought under cultivation. Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land per acre mav be estimated at L. 1, lis. : the rent varying from 2s. 6d. to L. 5 per acre. Few or no cattle, are taken in for grazing. Rate of Wages. — Farm-labourers receive Is. 6d. to 2s. in sum- mer, and from Is. Sd. to Is. 6d. in winter; masons and carpenters one-third more. There are 55 hand-loom weavers in the village of Coldingham, who are employed by Glasgow manufacturers to weave cotton, who for several years past have received only 6s. per week for working thirteen hours a-day. Husbandry. — The general mode of husbandry practised in the parish is that of the four-shift system. Leases are generally for a pe- riod of twenty-one years. Farm dwelling-houses and offices are large and commodious, suited to the size of the farm and to the wealth and respectability of the farmer. There are neither quarries nor mines worked in the parish. Produce. — The average gross amount and value of produce year- ly raised in the parish cannot be exactly ascertained : but the fol- lowing is an approximation : Grain, ... L. 26,000 Potatoes, turnips, &c. - - 6,000 Hay. - - - 1,200 Land in pasture, - - 18,000 Gardens and orchards - - 30 Annual thinning of woods^ &c. - 20 Fislieries, - - - 1,300 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L. 52,550 COLDINGHAM. 287 A small harbour for the security of fishing boats was erect- ed at Northfield shore, about a mile distant from Coldingham, in 1833, at the expense of about L. 1200, one-fourth of which was raised by private subscription ; Government supplied the re- mainder. Sixteen families reside close bye at the picturesque fish- ing village of Northfied, who, with about 20 others living in Cold- ingham, obtain their livelihood by fishing. In addition to these, 30 persons proceed annually to the north for the herring fishing, which gives employment for fourteen boats from this place. The fish caught upon this coast are cod, which, when pickled, are sent to the London market; also, haddock, turbot, lobsters, which are transported in carts to the Edinburgh market V. — Parochial Economy. MarkeMown — Villages. — The nearest market-town is Eye- mouth, two miles and a-half distant. The villages are Colding- ham, having a population of 850; Reston, 222 ; Auchincraw, 161. Means of Communication. — A daily post goes between Colding- ham and Ayton. Nine miles of the great London road traverse the parish, along which three public coaches daily travel ; there are 53 miles of parish roads, upon which L. 160 a-year, in the con- version of statute-labour, are expended. All the bridges and most of the fences are in good repair. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated nearly at the south-east corner of the parish, in the village of Coldingham. The situation is inconvenient for the parishioners generally, as it has the sea on the east, and the neighbouring parish of Eyemouth, within a mile of it, on the south, and is above eight miles distant from the other extremities of the parish. The church was repair- ed, and one of the walls rebuilt, in 1662 ; the remaining part of the building is a part of the old monastery. The church can ac- commodate 1000 persons, and the greater part of the aisle is ap- propriated for free sittings, but has never yet been fitted up for that purpose. The manse, which is situated within a short distance of the church, was built in 1801, and repaired and enlarged in 1828. Two glebes are attached to the living; one, consisting of five acres of excellent land, valued at L. 4 per acre ; the other, which was allotted to the minister at the division of the common, in lieu of his right of pasturage, also five acres in extent, but of very inferior quality, and worth L. 1, 10s. per acre. The stipend, by an aug- mentation obtained in 1833, was raised from 15 chalders 15 bolls, and L. 8, 8s. for communion elements, to 18 chalders, and L.10 for communion elements. 'iaH BKRWICKSHIEE. A cliajK'l wns erected at the distauce of seven miles fror parish eliurch, on the estate of Renton, iii 1794, by Sir John ling, the proprietor of Kenton ; and the Rev. Mr Beaton ivi daiiicd to the charge by the Presbytery of Chirnside, Sir Stirling granting him a bond for L^SOa-ycar. He was suco by Mr Marshnl!, wlio aftentards was appointed to a pari^ in : land in the year 1810; from that time, till 1831, with the e tioii of an occasional sermon during the first few years aftc Marshall's dcjiarture, public worship ceased to be performed the chajiel became much dilapidated, — no successor to hin appointed, as it was found impossible to procure a sufficient | sion for the support of a clergyman. In the spring of 1831, tlie present incumbent raised a cient sum among the inhabitants of the district in whicl chapel is situated, for its complete repair; and in the mon November following, Mr Duncan, with the full approbation concerned, was appointed to oRiciate, and the religious char^ the people entrusted to him by the parish minister, and hi since continued to reside and labour amongst them. His ini is derived from the seat rents, and a subscription received from Douglas Mr Bidfourof Wliittingliam, and the parish ministi whiuh have hitherto avcmgcd a little more than L. 60 per am There is one Dissenting chapel in the village of Coldingha connection with the United Associate Synod. Divine service, both at tlie church and chapel, is generally attended, and there are few parishes where the &idjbath-d more devoutly obscried. The average number of comniimic at the parish church is 560. The number of families in con tiou with the chapel at Ronton is upwards of 70, and the avei number of individuals who attend public worship there is 250, of communicants 140. lidttcation. — There are eight schools in the parish, having pupils; two of which schools are parochial, where the conn branches of education are taught, together with tlie Latin class mathematics, and French ; the other six are supported entirety school-fees, in two of which the classics are taught, and in other the ordinary branches of education. Both of the parocl schoolmasters liave the minimum salary ; one of whom draws L a-ycar from other sources, and the school-fees are as und reading, 2s.; writing, 33.; arithmetic, 4s.; Latin, 6s. per qiiar The opportunity of education is so generally embraced by people, that there are few who cannot read, and the numbct COLDINGHAM. 289 persons who are not able to sign their name is very inconsiderable ; and there is no part of the parish so distant from a school as to prevent attendance. In addition to these sources of instruction there are four Sunday schools, which are numerously attended. Literature, — The village of Coldingham is furnished with a sub- scription library containing 400 volumes, consisting of the best English authors. Fairs, — There is a fair held twice a-year in the village, which has now dwindled almost to nothing. Iniis. — There are two inns and ten public houses in the parish ; four are situated on the great London road, and all of them are well conducted, and do not appear to be productive of any serious injury to the morals of the people. Fuel. — The principal fuel used in the parish is coal, brought from the sea-port of Eyemouth and Berwick ; but the persons who live in the moorland parts of the parish chiefly burn peat Charitable Institutions. — A friendly society was established in 1791 ; it is in a very flourishing state, consisting at present of 125 members. The present amount of its capital stock is lent in small sums on floating security, and amounts to L. 700. The quarterly payment of each member is 3s. ; and the allowance per week to the sick and those unfit for work, 2s. ; and in the case of a funeral, L. 5 for expenses. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of individuals on the poor roll is 140, a few others receiving temporary aid ; and the average sum allotted to each is 1 s. 3d. a-week. The poor are supported by a legal assessment, amounting to nearly L. 600 per annum, and there is no other source of relief ex6ept that af- forded by the collections at church, which may amount to L. 10 per annum. Miscellaneous Observations. Nothing is wanting to promote the progress of industry and the happiness and comfort of the labouring classes, but the residence of the landed proprietors, scarcely any of whom reside in the pa- rish. The consequence of this is, that the poor have none to whom they can look for assistance in adversity, or counsel in difficulty; and the relative duties between rich and poor have no existence in this parish. November 1834. BERWICK. T UNITED PARISHES OF COCKBURNSPATH AND OLD CAMBt PltESB'i-TKnY OF DL'SBAB, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDD THE HliV. ANDREW Sl'ENCE, MINISTEH. THE ItEV. ANDREW BAIUD, ASSISTANT & SUCCESS* I. TOPOORAPIIY AND NaTUHAI, HtSTORT. Name. — The jjarish of Cockbumsiiath, to which that of Cambiis apiiears at a very early [wriod to liave been annexed ctipios the iiorili eastern corner of the county of Berwick. ciently it seems to liavc been written Coldbrandspeth, Cowbm l>eth, or Colbrandr^path ; but, with regard to the etymologj' of I this and the more modern name, Cockburnspath, there is n mi certainty. Tra(htion generally derives the former from a nish general of the name of Colbrand, wlio, it is said, reside one time io a ea-ftle of some strength in the centre of the pai the ruins of nhich still remain ; while the latter, on the same ihority, is attributed to another family of the name of Cockhi wlii(^h, at a more recent i)orioti, ac<]iiired possession of tlie ss stronghold, and the adjacent lands. Chalmers mentions that original name began to he corrniitcd so early as the year 150€ Bi» is durivifl fruin (lie Govlii; lumv Aid, i iiir>'iii$t a !ilr(.«iuli.-t, aud Camia, a creek ur luy ; aiid, in coiifinTialiaii of this deri liuii. Iw mentiiHiN tlint a rituiut \>\mix nl > liiilu diktaiKv. aitd fstk ititu on ink tliv wa. It U vautK pnibnblu, hinriter, tlinl iu dcrivtuion U tram tlie Onelir a/^ tivtf AIA, wild, savage. Mraniiv, and Camia, a crevk ur Imy, — a ikTivalion vhM strungly Kii|i|iurtt.il bj' tlie l)dd and nigged iwciicryoii (lieiiiost ortliis okl parisli. ■)■ 'I'liiK AroHinl hax been drawn it|i by tliv Itev. Aiiilrrv Baint. COCKBURNSPATH AND OLD CAMBUS. 291 of which a little river works its troubled way to the sea. But, though thus generally uneven, a very marked distincticfti in point of scenery is nevertheless apparent : that part of the parish lying nearest to the sea being arable and highly cultivated, while, as it recedes from the coast, it becomes more hilly, and is principally adapted for pasture. This latter division of the parish may be considered as a continuation of that subalpine tract of country which is known by the name of the Lammermoor hills, a tract which, extending across the island in a direction from N. E. to S. W., terminates a little beyond the boundaries of this parish, in the bold promontory of St Abb's. The general outline of this hilly tract is smooth, — the hills being generally round-backed and lumpish in their shape, none of them rising to a greater elevation than between 500 and 600 feet, and having a direction in general from west to east. The valleys are deep, having each a little streamlet flowing through it, which, as it approaches the sea, be- comes in many places exceedingly picturesque from the mingled charms of rocks and woods, and little waterfalls. Of these val- leys, or deans, as they are here generally named, the most remark- able are Dunglass Dean, one-half of which is in this parish ; the Tower Dean, so named from an old castle built on the edge of it ; Edmond's Dean, in the more hilly part of the parish ; and the Pease Dean, a ravine or glen remarkable for its depth and pic- turesque scenery, and across which was thrown, about fifty years ago, the celebrated Pease Bridge. The coast of this parish is throughout bold, rocky, and steep, especially the eastern portion of it, where it merges into the hilly range, already described as terminating in the promontory of St Abb's Head. Along this bold sea line occur some very interesting and striking pieces of coast scenery. Of these, one of the most picturesque is the Cove, a little bay surrounded by precipices of above 100 feet in height, and which, by the building of a break- water, &c. has recently been converted into a pretty little harbour for the protection of fishing boats. So perfectly secluded is this little bay, and so unexpected is the scene which almost instanta- neously opens to the view, that it uniformly produces on the mind of the stranger an almost electrical effect of surprise and admira- tion. A remarkably fine insulated cliff*, perforated in the centre by the action of the waves, and another lofty and magnificent rock, bearing at a short distance so close a resemblance to an ancient tower or cathedral, as to be very easily mistaken for such in ruins, 292 DRRWICKSIIIRE. add greatly to the eflcct of the other objects ; while the extent of ocean hcyond, the vessels of ever}' size and description entering or leaving the Frith of Forth, and the bold headlands along the coast, complete a scene of remarkable beauty. Several natu- ral excavations round this little bay have probably given to it the name of the ('ove. These have partly been taken advantage of to form a range of cellars in the rocks, and also a road or tunnel, of about GO yards in length, through one of the rocky sides of the bay, aifonling at high water the only means of access to the shore. Various other very interesting cosist scenes might be described, es])ecially in the neighbourhood of Kedheugh, in the eastern part of the parish ; and at a spot named the Siccar Point, which may nov be said to be almost classic ground. The geologiciil phenomena which have made this point so celebrated, we shall hayc occasion to describe immediately ; but hi the meantime we may be permit- ted to mention it as a very striking piece of scenery. It is a loftv cape or headland running abruptly into the sea, at the base of which, by a good deal of scrambling, we arrive at a remarkably fine cavern of considerable height and extent, the roof being covered with verj' beautiful calcareous stalactitic encrustations, and the en- trance being guarded by ranges of dill's and isolated rocks, producincr at high water, and especially when the wind has been for some davs in the sea, a very splendid effect. Both the natural and scientific beauties of this place, Sir John Hall, Bart., the proprietor, has lately rendered more accessible to strangers, by means of a wind- ing footpath along the sides of the steep sea-bank. Generally speaking, the coast of this parish may be described as an alterna- tive of bay and lofty headland, the beach being for the most part rough and rocky, with very little extent of sand. Meteorology. — The natural history of the parish is in many re- spects exceedingly interesting. But under this head, we shall merely observe, that there is a remarkable difference of climate be- tween the lower and higher districts of the parish, insomuch, that gardens, &c. in the latter district are fully a fortnight later, and that, too, in some cases within a distance of little more than a mile. On account of the inequalities of the parish, rain sometimes falls partially ; it being not unusual, in crossing two streimis with- in a distance of a mile of each other, to observe the one much flooded, while the other is untouched. The aurora borealis is sometimes seen to great advantage on this coast ; and uniformly. COCKBUBNSPATH AND OLD CAMBUS. 293 in the course of our experience, is it a precursor of turbulent stor- my weather. A remarkably fine display of this meteor took place in the month of October 1833. The whole heavens were covered with its splendour, and a gale very shortly followed of unusual vio- lence. The height in the atmosphere of this meteor has been variouslv estimated, and it has been much controverted whether or not sound has ever been heard to proceed from it. On this oc- casion it may be worth remarking, that many respectable indivi- duals in this neighbourhood are satisfied that they did hear such sound, and we have heard the same from others in other districts. Hydrography, — The streams in the parish are numerous but small, the largest being the river Eye, which flows through the wilder part of the parish. Its banks are generally bare and unin- teresting till it reaches the neighbourhood of Renton, in the pa- rish of Coldingham, where it becomes both a larger and more or- namental stream. Geology and Mineralogy. — The geological features of the pa- rish are in many respects highly interesting, principally from the opportunities aflbrded in various places, but especially along the coasts, of observing the succession and position of the different strata and rock formations. Of these last there are two great classes, the transition and secondary, — the former composing the whole of the hilly part of the parish, — the latter being confined to the lower division towards the west and north. The transition rocks, so far as we have observed, are entirely the greywacke and its accompaniment the greywacke slate ; no trap or other subor- dinate rocks presenting themselves, and, so far jis we have seen, (and we have examined this part of our subject with some minute- ness,) no vein, dike, or other extraneous mass occurring to derange the strata. The greywacke is very distinctly stratified, the gene- ral direction of flie strata being from west to east; although in this respect, as well as in the dip and inclination, there are great ir- regularities. Of all the stratified rocks, indeed, there are none more varied and irregular in these respects than the greywacke. This is a remark which applies to all the transition districts of the island, but to none, we believe, more than to the district now de- scribed. Very frequently, perhaps we should say most frequently, the strata are vertical or nearly so. * This position continues for a considerable extent, when, all at once, they change to hori- * Such \% their position at the Siccar Point, in the bed of the Pease Burni in the bed of the Tower Burn, in quarries on Ewicsidc, and other places. 294 BEKWICKSHIRK. zontal. Frequently, also, the most singular bendings and contor- tions niav be traced ; and sometimes a structure or arrangemeDt on a great scale, exactly resembling that which in a smaller scale we obser>e in the agate or Scotch pebble. Not unfrequently, also, in the ravines we behold the following arrangement : viz. the bed of the small stream is composed of strata perfectly vertical, while on either bank they dip away at a greater or less angle in opposite directions. This rock, the greywacke, is, throughout the parish, of the same general characters, being commonly fine-granular and compact, in many situations, indeed, only a variety of sandstone. To attempt an explanation of these irregularities in the strati- fication of this rock is what our space will not admit of, were we even able to present a plausible hypothesis. Satisfied, however, of the futility of theory on these subjects, — at least, of the impossi- bility of explaining all the appearances of such a district as that now described by any one system, — we prefer a simple statement or description of the appearances themselves, subjoining, in a note, one or two passages descriptive of this coast, from the interesting paper of Sir James Hall, Bart, of Dunglass, read to the Royal So- ciety, February 3, 1812. * * " The killas/' (or greywacke,) says he, " consists everywhere of an nssenibla^ of strata of various thickness, from several yards to the minutest leaf of slate. It is in general of a dark-hhie colour, and, when exainineosition. I'he strata He parallel to each other, but are evfn-yu'faere far from lieing horizontal, their prevailing atid best known position being vertical or nearly so. They are often tx>nt, however, at various angles, frequently very acute, and stimetimes with the strata nearly doulded upon themselves. In all the inland jiart of this range the rcK'k appears so partially, showing itself only in river courses or in quarries, that it is difTicult to obtain any correct information as to the i>osition'of the strata, which frear}y erect, but having a decided dip to the east ; and that, in the inmiediate neighbourhood, another set occurs in a position similar to the first, but having a no le.ss di>cided dip to the west/' ** On the shore of the sea, however, where these rocks are bare, and exposed in such a manner that our view can embrace at once a considerable extent of the inass» the general structure becomes apparent, and we are enabled to give a rational actxiunt of these seeming anomalies, 'lliis opimrtunity of observation occurs with peculiar advantage on the coast of Berwiekshire, where the lotYy clifls which exteiid from Fast Castle eastward to Gim's Green, near Kyemouth, present to the view a cross section of these strata, by which their position is seen to possess much more method and re- gularity than the inland rocks woidd have led us to expect. Tlie strata here exhibit a succession of regular windings and powerful undulations, reaching from top to bot- tom of the cliirs two or three hundred feet in height. These are occasionally inter- ru]>ted, as might be expected, by the irregidarities of the caxst, by sliifts and disloca- tions of the IkmIs, and sometimes, as happens at St Abb's Head, by the intervention of whinstone. or occasionally of porphyry. " Notwithstanding these interrujitions. I reckoned (in an excursion to that coast made last summer with my se determined merely by mineralogical characters, we would in very many phu^es uqueror into Scotland, about 1070, in the reign of Mal- coJni Canmore. COCKBUHNSPATH AND OLD CAMBUS. 305 minions, set sail with some friends and domestics in a small ves- sel bound for some port in the Frith of Forth. A contrary wind, however, having sprung up, they could not weather St Abb's Head, but were obliged to land in some part near it. On landing, they were hospitably entertained by the Bishop or Prior of Colding- ham ; and, out of gratitude to the respective saints, through whose intercession, as they imagined, their lives had been preserved, they erected severally a chapel at their own expense, viz. St Abb's, on the summit of "the Head ;" St Helen's, in the parish of Old Cam- bus ; and St Bee's, on the shore of Dunbar ; which last, however, has long since disappeared. Near this remarkable old ruin a con- siderable number of coins were found about three years ago, to- gether with an ancient rosary. Many of the coins were much de- faced, but others were exceedingly perfect. They were of silver, and of Athelstan or Edelstan the Great, grandson of Alfred the Great. Eminent Men. — With the exception of the late Sir James Hall, Bart, of Dunglass, we are not aware of any eminent departed cha- racters with whom the parish can claim any connection. Even he, indeed, can hardly be said to have any immediate connection with the parish, since neither his birth-place nor his residence were in it. Dunglass, however, being so very contiguous, to which the greater part of the parish belongs, we cannot omit his name, which will be respected as long as natural science is cultivated, to the advancement of which he so materially contributed. Land-ovmers. — The land-owners, according to the value and ex- tent of their respective properties, are, 1. Sir John Hall, Bart, of Dunglass, who possesses nearly three-fourths of the parish; 2. James Hunter of Thurston, Esq. ; 3. Sir J. G. Suttie, Bart, of Balgone ; 4. W. W. Hay, Esq. of Blackburn ; 5. Thomas Broad- wood, Esq. of Fulfordlees ; and 6. James Balfour, Esq. of Whit- tingham, M. P. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers consist of three folio volumes, containing an account of the births and marriages which have happened in the parish from December 18, 1642, to the present time. They appear to have been very regularly kept, particularly that of marriages ; but within the last thirty years pa- rents have become very negligent in getting the names of their children entered in the baptismal register. III. — Population. • There does not seem to be any authentic account of the ijoi^u- BERWICK. U 306 BERWICKSHIRE. lation of this parish prior to the former Statistical Account in 1794; but, if a conjecture might be formed regarding its state from the number of births and marriages which were yearly entered in the parish register about a century ago, the number of inhabit- ants must have been at that time one-half greater than it is at present. The principal reason assigned for this diminution, as stated in the former Statistical Account, is the cessation of seve- ral collieries at that time in activity, and the loss of the various advantages connected with them. Ir 1 17^, the population was 919 1703, . 883 1811, 921 1821, . 966 1831, 1143 The increase betwixt 1821 and 1831 is to be attributed partly to the improved state of agriculture in the parish, and partly to the erection of a small harbour at the Cove, which, at the time the last census was taken, was still unfinished ; and, consequently, several strangers (probably about thirty) are included in it who have now left the parish. Of the population in 1831, the number of males was 570 ; that of females, 573. The yearly average of births for the last seven years is uncertain, from parents neglecting to register their children. Of deaths there is no correct record kept Of marriages the yearly average for the above period is 10. Number of families, 227 ; of inhabited houses, 213; number of houses uninhabited, or at present building, 8; of fatuous people there are 4 ; of deaf and dumb, 2. The number of families chiefly employed in agriculture is, • - 123 chiefly employed in trade, manufactureSj or handicraft, 5t2 There are no resident heritors in the parish. The number of proprietors of land is 16; — the lowest rental being L. 175; the highest L. 1050. Character and Habits of the People. — The people, generally speaking, are of a strong robust frame ; for the most part cleanly in their habits, houses, and dress ; and seem, on the whole, to en- joy, in a very competent degree, the comforts and advantages of society. The ordinary food of the peasantry at their meals is oat-meal, milk, potatoes, and pork. Almost every family keeps a pig, and few are so poor that they cannot at a time afford a little mutton or beef. In general they appear to be contented with their situation and circumstances. Both smuggling and poaching in game prevailed at one time, we have understood, to a great ex- tent. Both, however, Vvave beew ^vvevv u^j \ — the latter, we trust, COCKBURNSPATH AND OLD CAMBUS. 307 from the improved morality and comfort of the inhabitants ; the former, principally at least we suspect, from the superintendence of the coast guard, who have a station within the parish, consisting of six boatmen and a commanding officer. IV. — Industry. ' Agriculture and Rural Economy, — The number of acres, standard imperial measure, under cultivation may be stated at - - - - - 5200 Never cultivated, or remaining constantly in pasture, - - 3838 That might be added to the cultivated land, tiiough not at present with much prospect of profit, .... 20O In undivided common, - ... Under wood, - ... 55Q Rent of Land, — From the great diversity in the quality of the soil, it is not very easy to state the average rent of arable land in the parish. A considerable part of the farm of Pathhead, and other lands near the village of Cockburnspath, rent as high as L. 3 per acre ; while in some other parts of the parish, the rent of arable land per acre is as low as 5s. or 6s. The difficulty of stating an average sum is increased from the circumstance, that most of the farms are let at corn rents. Perhaps the average sum for the lower part of the parish may be stated at L. 1, 15s. per acre, and for the whole parish at L. 1. The rent of grazing an ox or cow may be averaged at L. 3 for the whole parish ; a ewe or full-grown sheep at 8s. The rental of the parish may be estimated at about L. 8000. Prices of Labour, — Ploughmen or hinds throughout the parish, with some trifling variations, are paid as follows: — 10 bolls of oats ; 3 bolls of barley ; 2 small bolls, or 6 firlots of peas ; L. 3 of sheep^ money^ as it is called in this parish, or faUow-money^ as it is named in some other parts of Berwickshire; a cow kept summer and win- ter; 3 bolls of coals at 12 cwt. per boll; and 12 bolls, at an ave- rage, of potatoes. Every hind and cottar is required to keep a bondager. It should also be mentioned, that the hind's wife, instead of the payment of rent for the house and small garden attached to it, gives her services in cutting down the crop in harvest Formerly it was permitted to the hinds to keep poultry, — a practice now very generally given up. Instead of this privilege they are allowed one- half boll of barley. Altogether a hind's income cannot at present be stated at more than from L. 22 to L. 24 per annum. Men-ser- vants, with board, &c receive for wages L. 9, 10s., — that is, L. 5 for summer and L. 4, 10s. for winter ; women servants receive generally L. 7, viz. L. 5 for the summer half year, and L. 2 for the winter. 308 BERWICKSHIRE. Farm-labourers, labourers employed on the roads, &c are paid at the rate of 10s. per week for the summer half year, and 9s. for the winter. The wages of mason and carpenter may be stated from 15s. to 18s. per week. Prices of Implements'^ S^c. — A double horse cart, full mounted, with iron axletree, costs L. 12, 12& ; a single horse cart, do. do. L. 10, 10s.; a long cart do. without wheels, L.4, 4s.; a wheel- barrow^ full mounted, 18s.; an iron plough, full mounted, L.3, ds. ; a wooden plough, L. 1, 15s. ; a pair of wooden harrows, full mounted, L. 2, 2s. ; building stone and lime dikes, per square rood, 18s.; building dry-stone dikes, per running rood, 3s.; sawing of fir-wood, per 100 feet, 2s. 6d. ; sawing of hard-wood, do. 4s. 6d. Breeds of Live-StocL — The breeds of sheep in the parish are Tarious, according to the soil and situation. On the best land the pure Leicester is the breed preferred; on the "higher ground they are generally of the Cheviot breed. A considerable number of half Leicester and half Cheviot are also kept. Very few black- faced are kept. Until lately, it cannot be said that much atten- tion has been paid to the improvement of the breed of cattle. The cows at one time were of a very ordinary description ; but of late years, it has been a practice for two or three neighbouring tenants to club together and keep a well-bred bull, since which time a very considerable improvement has taken place. More attention than formerly is also paying to the breed of fann-horses. Htisbandry, — The system of husbandry pursued differs consider- ably in different parts of the parish ; but it may be safely affirmed, that in no part of the island is the management of land better un - derstood than in this parish. The farmers of this neighbourhood have long been distinguished for intelligence and enterprise, and the changes which in consequence have taken place of late years, and are still taking place on the appearance of the countiy, are great. On one farm, 100 acres of moor have, within ten years, been added to the cultivated land of the parish; on another, 150 acres have been reclaimed within six years ; and on various other farms the changes have been equally great. The general rotation of crops in the upper part of the parish is what is called the five-shift rotation, viz. 1. turnips or fallow; 2. barley or wheat; 3. grass; 4. grass ; 5. oats. On the best land of the parish the rotation is the six-shift, viz. 1. fallow; 2. wheat; 3. hay; 4. oats; 5. beans; 6. wheat. The four-shift is also followed in some parts of the pa- rish. Tlie distance from lime is inconsiderable ; but as the coab COCKBURNSPATH AND OLD CAMBUS. 309 necessary for burning it are all brought from a distance, it is not cheap. Sea-ware is much used, and highly esteemed as a manure. Bone-dust is also used to a very great extent, — a manure, the dis- covery of which has been of immense use in reclaiming waste ground not only in this parish, but generally throughout the coun- try. In no part of Berwickshire is it used in such quantity as in this parish. A very striking instance of the importance of this ma- nure may be seen in the case of the farm of Bowshiel, in this pa* rish, where, by means of it, large tracks of high ground have not only been reclaimed, but are now producing immense crops. The leases of farms are from nineteen to twenty-one years; a smaller duration being considered unfavourable to the occu- pier. Notwithstanding the acknowledged high state of agriculture, we fear that a great deal cannot be said in commendation of the state of farm-buildings and enclosures in the parish. Compared with many other districts of inferior importance, the former may be de- scribed as ppssessed of very ordinary comforts ; in most places of Berwickshire, both the farm-'houses and steadings being superior. Throughout a considerable part of the parish, we may also state that little has been done in the way of enclosing land, — a circum- stance which forcibly strikes the traveller in passing, and for which deficiency we have never heard any good reasons assigned. Among the principal improvements which have taken place of late years, may be mentioned casually the new line of post road from Dun- glass Bridge to Renton, — the recently constructed pier and har- bour at the Cove, and universal drainage. There is hardly a necessity for a single remark on the quarries and mines of the parish. The only quarry worth mentioning is near the mouth of the Pease burn. The rock is the old red sand- stone, and principally valuable on account of its qualification of standing heat. ^ Fisheries. — There are no river fisheries; but the coast affords con- siderable numbers and variety, giving employment to sixteen fami- lies, fourteen at the Cove, and two in Old Cambus district The common fishes are, cod, haddock, whiting, ling, skate, halibut, and turbot. A great number of crabs and lobsters are taken at particu- lar seasons, the latter being generally shipped for London from the port of Dunbar. Shrimps and prawns are numerous, but they are not taken. Herrings in former years used to frequent the coast, but for about eight years past, with the exception of a few shoals in 310 BERWICKSHIRE. the end of September 1833, no herrings have been seen in this jneighbourhood. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, calculated as carefully as possible, may be stated as follows : Produce of grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man or the domestic animals, . - - - • L. 12680 Of potatoes, turnips, cabbages, and other plants cultivated in the fields for food, - - - - - 3500 Of hay, whether meadow or cultivated, ... TOO Of land in pasture, rating it at L. 3 per cow or full-grown ox grazed for the sea«on, and at 8s. per ewe or full-grown sheep pastured for the year, .-.-.- 200O Annual thinning, &c. of woods, .... ^00 Total yearly value of produce raised, L. 19,560 V. — Parochial Economy. Villoffes, and Means of Communication, — Though hardly en- titled to the dignified appellation of a market-town, the village of Cockburnspath may ix^vertheless be said to possess all the advan- tages of one. On its shops and tradesmen a considerable surround- ing district is dependent, there being no place of equal size or con- sequence nearer than Dunbar on one side, or Dunse or Ayton on the other; the first town being eight miles distant, the two last fourteen. It is a neat clean village, containing a population of about 230, and affording to a great portion of several neighbouring parishes all the necessaries, and not a few of the luxuries, of life. Between thirty and forty years ago, this village presented a most decayed and miserable appearance, but, under the judicious ma- nagement of Lady Helen Hall, lady of the late distinguished Sir James Hall, Bart., it has been amazingly improved both in com- fort and in appearance. * The village contains a surgeon, a baker, a butcher, 2 grocers, or rather general merchants, one of whom has long carried on an extensive trade both wholesale and retail, 2 carpenters, who generally employ from 3 to 5 jour- neymen each, 3 tailors, one of whom usually employs 3 or 4 men, 2 smiths, 3 shoemakers, two of whom keep from 3 to 6 men each, 1 cooper, 1 constable, several masons, various dress-makers, straw- hat manufacturers, &c. The village belongs to Sir John Hall, Bart., and the householders are all tenants at will, there being no such thing as a feu in this parish. A considerable village exist- * It would be unpardonable did we here omit to bear our testimony to the active beneficence, generosity, and charity of -this excellent lady during the many years she resided at Dungloss, and whose absence would be deeply felt, were it not that fortu- nately the same spirit of kindness and charity has descended to her successor, the present I^idy Hall of Dunglass, whose kindness and attention to the poor of this pa- rish and neighbourhood are deserving of all praise and imitation. C0CKBURN8PATH AND OLD CAMBUS. 311 cd at one time at Old Cambus, but it is now reduced to a few houses. The parish contains no post-office ; but by means of a runner who goes to Dunbar every morning, and returns in the evening, more than the usual advantages of a post-office are enjoyed. The parish has the peculiar advantage of being intersected by public roads, which afford convenient and easy communication to all quar- ters. The great eastern road from Edinburgh to London by Ber- wick passes through the centre of the parish, in a direction from N. W. to S. E. ; its length from Dunglass Bridge to the other ex- tremity of the parish being about five miles. A considerable part of it is entirely new within the last twenty-four years. Before that date the road was nearer the coast, passing along an old and very inconvenient bridge at one place, and along the Pease Bridge at another, which last was built in 1785-1786, in order to avoid the very dangerous pass which travellers, before that time, were ob- liged to cross near the sea. Part of this oldest road still remains rising through a height of upwards of 150 feet at a declivity of 1 foot in 5. Many old people in the parish still remember the mail travelling by this road. At that time it was carried on horseback, the post-office befng at Old Cambus. When this old road was changed, the line by the Pease Bridge, &c was considered, as well it might, a very great improvement. This, however, has also been abandoned. The last made line leaves the old road at Cockburns- path Tower, about half a mile westward from the Pease Bridge, passing in a south-east direction into the valley of the Eye by Ren- ton, &c This new line of road has been of great advantage to the parish, and though generally excellent, is still susceptible of great improvement. The numerous deep ravines which intersect the parish, give occasion to several striking and picturesque bridge scenes. Of these bridges there are four particularly deserving of notice, two across Dunglass Dean, one very ancient and pictu- resque, the other more modern and exceedingly beautiful, both in itself and in its accompaniments of rocks, woods, and waters. It consists of one spacious arch, about ninety feet above the bed of the little stream, the view from the top of the bridge being seldom equalled in beauty. About two miles eastward, at the old castle of Cockburnspath, the road is carried along another bridge, which, though not equal to the former in architectural beauty, is never- theless, from its height and the wild beauty of the glen which it crosses, a very picturesque and pleasing object. Pease Bridge. — But the chief of picturescyjxo^ ^vA ^\x^«ew^ 312 BERWICKSHIRE. bridges is undoubtedly the Pease Bridge, to which we have al- ready more than once alluded, but which demands a nriore par- ticular notice. It is situated about one mile and a-half eastward from the village of Cockburnspath, crossing a very deep and spa- cious ravine, formed by a little rapid river called the Pease bgrn. Its length is 300 feet, its breadth 16, and its height 127. It has four arches, two of which rest on the banks of the chasm ; a tall slender pier rising from the middle of the glen supports the other two. The view from the top of the bridge into the rocky yet richly wooded glen beneath, well repays a Very long and fatig- uing journey, but, to be properly impressed with the stupendous height of this beautiful structure, it is proper that strangers should descend the side of the glen to the bed of the stream, from which the view is equally sublime and beautiful. Tlie bridge was built by Mr Henderson, and as a specimen of architecture has been long admired. In addition to these lengthened notices we may be al- lowed to mention, that in former times the Pease was considered a pass of great importance, from the circumstance, that a very few men were able to defend it against a multitude. Accordingly, it was one of the channels of escape which the Scottish army block- ed up against Oliver Cromwell in the year 1650, and that cele- brated general describes it in his dispatch to the Parliament, after the battle, as a place, " where one man to hinder is better than twelve to make way." The other roads in the parish require no particular notice. They are generally kept in good repair, though, from the inequa- lities of the ground, &c. this is not always very easy. Three coaches pass and repass daily, changing horses at the inn of Cockburnspath. These are, the Mail, the Union, a four- horse coach from Edinburgh to Newcastle, and a two-horse coach from Edinburgh to Berwick. Harbours^^c — At the Cove, distant about three-fourths of a mile from the village of Cockburnspath, a small harbour was completed in the month of October 1831. More than seventy years ago, a similar attempt was made by Sir John Hall, Bart., of Dunglass, who had actually proceeded a considerable way in the erection of a pier, when a heavy sea from the north-cast entirely destroyed it. A similar fate befel another attempt immediately before the present pier was erected, which, in consequence, was built upon anotlier plan, and may now safely bid defiance to any sea. The expense of this work, which was considerable, was defrayed partly 3 COCKBURNSPATH AND OLD CAMBUS. 313 by Government, partly by Sir John Hall, Bart Unfortunately it is found to be of much less advantage than was anticipated, the consequence, we believe, of a change m the direction of the main pier from that originally proposed, which, though intended as an improvepient, has turned out the very reverse. The entrance, likewise, is too wide, admitting too much sea. Though intended principally as a protection for fishing-boats, larger vessels, never- theless, occasionally come in laden with coals, bone-dust, &c. It will hardly, however, admit vfith safety vessels above sixty tons burden. Ecclesiastical State. — The church, though situated much nearer one comer of the parish than any other, may, nevertheless, be described as so far convenient, that it stands in the most populous part of it. It is only about half a mile from the extremity of the parish in one direction, while in some others, it is fully four and five miles distant We have sometimes found, however, that those who come the farthest attend most regularly. When the church was built, I have never been able to discover. It is, however, an ancient structure ; — one of the stones taken from it at a late re- pair bearing the date of 1163. It remained long in a most un- comfortable state ; but repairs at various times have been made upon it, especially in 1807, when it was newly seated and ren- dered more comfortable; and again to a trifling extent in 1826. Additional repairs have been obtained since the writer of this account was settled in the parish, 100 new sittings having been added, and the church-yard, which before his settlement was in a most disgraceful state, having been well-fenced and made as neat as any church-yard in the county. With the late additional sit- tings, there is accommodation for about 400 people. The seats belong entirely to the heritors. I have never been able to learn at what time the manse was built. The greater part of it, however, is evidently ancient. It was repaired in 1791, and again in 1808. Some additional re- pairs were also obtained about two years ago, which have made a comfortable, though certainly by no means either an elegant or very commodious mansion. The glebe measures about 7^ English acres, and is let at the rate of L. 3 per acre, including the driving of coals and the quan- tity of potatoes required by the minister. The stipend modified in March 1831 is seventeen chalders, half meal and half barley, at the highest Merse fiars prices, with 314 BBBWICKSHIBE. two bolls of wheat The allowance for communion elements v L. 6, 6s. 8d. The amount converted into money was for crop and year 1832, nearly L. 230; for crop 1833 about L.220. The Crown is the patron of this living. A chapel belonging to the United Secession church was erected about forty-five years ago at Stockbridge, about a mile south from the village of Cockbumspath. Particular circumstances led to its erection, which it would not be agreeable here to state ; but hav- ing once been erected, it has continued not only to exist, but to keep together a very considerable congregation. It ought to be stated, however, that the congregation is not all from this parish, but that a pretty large portion of it is from the adjoining neigh- bourhood. The managers have the letting of the seats, and they bind themselves to pay their minister L. 100 per annum. This sum, however, notwithstanding that a considerable debt still re- mains unpaid, is generally increased, so as to make the minister's income from L. 120 to L. 125 per annum. The chapel is to be considered in the %ht of a feu from Sir John Hall, Bart, a yearly acknowledgment being now exacted of a boll and a half of barley. The number of families attending the Established church is about 112, but a considerable additional number attend from the adjoining parish of Oldhamstocks, on account of the more con- venient distance. The number of families in the parish who at- tend the meeting is about 67. There are some families in the parish who are members neither of church nor meeting, and these we have not included. The number of male heads of families in communion with the church is 90, attached to the meeting 74. The average number of communicants at the Established church is about 283. Notwithstanding what we must acknowledge to be the very considerable number in this parish attached to the Seces- sion, it is exceedingly gratifying to be able to state, and we do it from a very recent personal visit to almost every house in the ])a- rish, that exceedingly few, indeed, can be said to be attached to voluntary principles, notwithstanding the too numerous attempts at the present tjme to inflame men's minds upon this subject. Were people left to their own quiet judgments, there is no wish, we are persuaded, throughout this country, that the Established church should be overturned. Multitudes we have seen who do uot even know what is meant by the term voluntary, and, from what we have lately seen, we are perfectly certain that many of COCKBURNSPATH AND OLD CAMBUS. 315 those Dissenting ministers who now advocate so boldly and confi- dently, the voluntary scheme, would be somewhat mortified, as well as surprised, if they were to take the sense of their congrega- tions on this important question. Divine service, we are happy to state, is generally very well attended, both at church and meeting. Education. — There are three schools in the parish, the paro- chial school, a school supported by subscription in the village of Cockbumspath, and an endowed school in the district of Old Cam- bus. In the parochial school, which is ably conducted, the bran- ches generally taught are, English reading, English grammar, writ- ing, arithmetic, book-keeping, Latin, and practical mathematics; sometimes also Greek, French, geography, and the theory of ma- thematics. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is L. 30, and the yearly average amount of school fees for the last ten years is L. 45. This sum, however, is never completely realized on ac- count of bad payments. The yearly season for teaching continues for three quarters and a-half, each thirteen weeks, and the expense of attendance during that time is, for English reading, 10s. 6d. ; writing, 14s. ; arithmetic, 17s. 6d. ; Latin, L. 1, 6s. 3d. The ave- rage annual number of scholars is 90. The school-house is good, but the dwelling-house is very uncomfortable. Repairs, however, have been ordered, and are to be proceeded with immediately. The branches taught in the other two schools are nearly similar to those in the parochial. The average number attending the sub- scription school is 30, attending the Old Cambus school, 45. This last school, which is also well taught, has a salary attached to it of 8 bolls of oats, and L. 13 of money, with a free house. The number of children under five years of age who are now learn- ing to read is, of males, 7 ; of females, 5 : total, 12. Of children between five and fifteen, now learning to read, the number is of males, 116; of females, 60; total, 176. Of children between five and fifteen years of age, now learning to write, the number is, of males, 75 ; of females, 30 ; total, 105. One or two old people can neither read nor write : but, as will be seen from the foregoing statement, the inhabitants of this district seem on the whole to be very much alive to the benefits of education, while scarcely any part of the parish can be said to be so distant as to prevent attend- ance at school. Literature. — A subscription library has been in existence in the parish about twelve years, and is at present in a thriving condi- 316 BEaWICKSHIBE. tion. Tbere is also a small village library, and one or two Si bath school collections of books. Friendly Society, ^c. — A Friendly Society was in existence ab< fifteen years ago, but, from some mismanagement of the funds, some other reason, it became unpopular, and was broken up. ] attempt has since been made to revive it. No savings bank exi in the parish. The establishment of one, however, is in coDt« plation. The nearest, or at least the one which might be rendi ed most available, is that of Dunse. Poor and Parochial Funds. — Until the author of this accou was settled in the parish, about three years and a-half ago, the was no legal assessment for the support of the poor ; what was i quired for this purpose in addition to the collections, 8cc being ably by their own weight, folded over one another, and thus formed arches in appearance." EYEMOUTH. 321 stratified or unstratified, whether they are trap or a variety of the graywacke. The only other rock which we have to notice as occurring in the parish is a remarkable mass of breccia or coarse conglomerate, which must be referred to the old red sandstone formation. It forms the beautiful projecting point known by the name of the Fort, on the north-west side of the Bay of Eyemoutk The space which it occupies is inconsiderable, being apparently little more than the eighth part of a mile square, with an average thickness of about fifty feet ; but in point both of structure and situation it is highly interesting. It rests immediately on the trap rocks already de- scribed, the junction being well seen round nearly half a mile of sea-coast. One-half rests on the trap-tuff, and the other on the porphyry. Though somewhat rude and imperfect, a stratification may, nevertheless, be traced, the strata being nearly horizontal. As in other situations where the oldest member of this formation is observed, it is here composed almost entirely of the detritus of the rocks on which it rests, and of the older rocks in the neigh- bourhood, viz. greywacke, porphyry, &c. united generally by an arenaceous cement. It is remarkable that, on both sides of the high land terminating at St Abb's Head, we find, as we recede from St Abb's, and very nearly at equal distances, the same great succession of rock formations. What distinguishes the situation of the old red sandstone in this parish from its corresponding situation on the other side of the high land alluded to, is, that there it rests, as we would expect, immediately on greywacke, while in this pa- rish it rests upon trap. Whether this great mass of conglomerate has been deposited subsequently or antecedently to the formation of the trap, is a question which we leave to be settled by geolo- gists ; although we cannot help saying that the appearances ob- servable incline us to the former supposition. This conglomerate forms an excellent building stone in situations where it is exposed to the action of sea water, for which purpose it has been exten- sively employed in the construction of the breakwater, quays, &c. of the harbour of Eyemouth. It can be quarried in masses of any size. Zoology, — So far as we have been able to learn, there are no animals either rare or peculiar to the parish. The otter is fre- quently met with in the Eye, and the seal is occasionally seen in the Bay of Eyemouth. Porpoises also are numerous off the coast in the summer season. In 1817, a whale of a very large size was observed floating a little way off this coast, aivdloH*^A.'vQ\»^^'^^^ BERWICK. X 322. BEBWICKSHIBE. It measured about sixty-six feet in length. The species was I Sidtsna Hoops. In the department of ornithology there is no great variety. T kingsfishor aod dipper are occasioDally seen flying about the E' The golden-crested wren Is also frequently met with. The sti ling, fieldfare, and missel-tbnish occasionally halt for a week or t in lar^ flocks. The Bohemian chatterer is also occasionally se in the plantations about Ketherbyres. The sandpiper breeds < the margins of the streams. The woodcock, the cotnmoD snip and the jack-snipe, are common. The water-hen abouods Jn t1 Eye. Herons are observed in great numbers preying upon tl smaller fish both in the Eye and on the sea-coast. The creeps great titmouse or ox-eye, cole-mouse, long-tailed titmouse, &c a common. Linnets and finches of various kinds are also ccnnmoi the buUlinch being not infrequent. A few months ago sever swans made their appearance in the bay of Eyemouth, one of whit was shot. Owing to the neighbourhood of St Abb's Head, we known as a great breeding station of sea fowl, a great number i aquatic birds frequent our coast ; of these the principal are cormt rants, auks, gulls, many of the ducks, several of the divers, an one or two species of grebes. The solan goose Is an occasional v sitant. The guillemot and tern arc abundant; and occasiocalb in particular states of the weatlier, the stormy petrel is observed t no great distance from the sliore. The more common birds of th game kind arc partridges and pheasants, the latter having increase considerably within the last few years. The principal fishes of th coast are haddock, cod, ling, turbot, halibut, skate, &c Botany. — Owing to the small extent of the parish, a great va riety cannot be expected in the department of botany. On thi sea shore, however, we meet with several interesting plants, whil the woods about Netherbyres, and the banks of the Eye and Ale contribute their numbers. In the former station we may mention among others more commonly met with, Ligusticum Seoticutn (lo- vage,) Thalictriim minus, Silene maritima, Veronica scutellatat TH- fflochin maritimum, Eupatorium cannabinum, Cynoghssum officinale Glaucium luteum, Cakile maritima, Arenaria marina, and, in exca- vated sea rocks, the Asplentum viarinum, {a very pretty fern.) Or the sea banks at Gunsgreen, the beautiful Sdlla vema occurs it considerable abundance. The station Is not exactly within the pa- rish, but is so very near ils bounds that it cannot be omitted. Th* discovery of this interesting plant Is due to the Rev., A. Bair^, minister of Cockbutusvath. The station now mentioned is th« EYEMOUTH. 323 only one as yet ascertained for it on the cast coast of Scotland. On the authority of the same gentleman, we may mention the fol- lowing plants as occurring on the banks of the Eye, and in other situations in the parish, viz. : ThalictrumJlavuTn^ Epipactis nidus avis. Arum maculatum, Ritmex sanguineiLSj Listera ovatoj Thalic* trum nuiffuSf J\dipa gyhestrisj Geranium lucidum, Sium angustifo- Hum, Lamium amplexicauk, L. ineisum, Sedum Telephium, Daphne Laureola, Dipsacus sylvestris, Chara kispideL, Cichorium Intybusy Soffina apetala. Astragalus hypoghttis, Alium ursinum, A» vineale, Fedia olitoria, Samolus Valerandi, Cardamine amara, &c &c Of these plants, the most interesting are the Thalictrum majus, the T.fiavum, for which only two other stations have been ascertained in Scotland, Rumex sanguineus, a plant of rare occurrence, and the Epipactis nidus avis, not frequently met with. The Tulipa sylvestris to all appearance is decidedly wild ; but, as its station is only a little way from Netherbyres, it may perhaps prove to be an outcast of the garden at some former period. With the mention of two other plants we shall conclude this imperfect sketch of the botany of the parish ; the one is the Primula veris, the umbellate variety, which is frequently confounded with the Primula elatior or ox-lip ; it occurs both on the sea banks and on the Eye in to- lerable abundance ; it is the Primula elatior of Greville's Flora Edinensis, the true Primula elatior having, so far as we are aware, no station in Scotland. The other plant is a variety of Geum, in- termediate between the Geum rivale and the G. urbanum* It is noticed by Professor Hooker as occurring in the neighbourhood of Glasgow, and is supposed to be a hybrid between the two species already mentioned. It grows on the hedge sides between Eye- mouth village and Eyemouth mill. II. — Civil History. No ancient or modem accounts of the history of this parish are known to us. The chartularies of Coldingham priory are the chief sources from which our knowledge of the early history of this and the neighbouring parish of Ayton is to be derived, as there can be no doubt that both of them were dependencies upon that ancient Establishment.* As a sea-port, Eyemouth would naturally be re- sorted to by the monks in their passing to and from foreign parts; and there can be little doubt that the earliest commercial transac- * The earliest mention made of Eyemouth in the records of Coldingham occurs in a Charter issued during the reign of William the Lion, and consequently between the years 1 174 and 1214. By this, Edward, son of Peter de Lastailrig ( Ucstalrig,) Boron of the King of Scots, gave and granted to God, St Mary, St Ebb, Ilcrliert« the prior, and the monks of Coldingham, ** duas loftos ad Kimuthe et unum ad Lff:^^o>.\^Kw norifice» &c. reddendo anuualem sibi et heredibuft uy \«Vm& ^^^Nasc^ w:T\R5i»r 324 BERWICKSHIRE. tions, in which its inhabitants engaged, were the receiving and pas- sing to Goldingham those supplies which were required, either for the support of its numerous inmates, or for the performance of the rites of their pompous and imposing worship. One of these notices occurs so early as the fourteenth century, and shows that shipping even at that early period, had resorted to the harbour to such an extent as to encourage the demand of anchorage dues on the part of the lord of tlie manor. It is in these terms, *^ Magna Placi- tatio, in curia de Eyton, pro duodecim denariis male receptis, per J. Kinkborn, nomine sedis unius navis, apud Eymouth.'' — Ab. Chart Goldingham, 22. Land-owners. — From the earliest notices extant, it would seem that nearly the whole of the lands in this, as well as a large portion of those in the neighbouring parish, belonged at one time to the Homes of Fastcastle. The last baronet of that name had two daughters, one of whom was married to Logan of Restalrig, the other to Ogilvie of Dunlugas; and charters in both of these names are found recorded. Sir Lawrence Scott seems to have been the next proprietor of the lands of Eyemouth, whose only daughter, Euphemia, was married to Mr George Winram, son of a Colonel Winram. Upon Mr Winram's failure, the estate was purchased by Mr Trotter of Mortonhall, who shortly aften^^ards (in 1764) sold it to the late Patrick Home, Esq. and in that family it has re- mained ever since. The late Mr Ninian Home, the father of the above Patrick Home, purchased the Linthill estate, (which, with the lands of Elyemouth, forms a very compact and valuable pro- perty,) from a Mr Alexander Home.* The present proprietor of the Eyemouth estate is W. F. Home, Esq. of Billie, wlio resides at Pax ton House, in the pa- rish of Hutton. The other proprietors in the parish are, David Ronton, Esq. of Highlaws; John Fowler, Esq. of Hallydown ; Co- lonel Logan; Rev. John Edgar; the Friendly Society; Mr W. A. Gillie ; Captain Brown ; Mr J. Pur\es ; Mr A. Robertson ; Mr R, TurnbuU; Mr W. Purves; Mrs Wightman and Miss Fore- * The mansion-house of Linthill, which is pleasantly situated on the banks of the Ale» near its junction with the Eye, was, after the death of Patrick Home, the acene of a remarkable tragedy, his widow having been barbarously murdered there by her servant, Norman Ross, about the year 1762. lie had concealed himself under her bed, whence he sallied forth upon her at dead of night. After a severe struggle, during which he inflicted several dreadful wounds upon her witli a cose knife, with which he was armed, she contrived to reach the l>eU-rope and alarm the fiimily ; upon which he leaped from the window, and escaped. A few days afterwards, be was found by some reapers in the adjoining field, liaving broken his \eg in the fiill. He was tried before the High Court of Justiciary at Edinburgh, and condemned to be executed, and his body to be hung in chains. EYEMOUTH. 325 man. Their lands, however, are biit of limited extent, only two of them being proprietors to the amouilt of L. 50 per annum. * Although not connected with the parish in any other way, it may not be uninteresting to mention, that the famous Duke of Marlborough was created Baron of Eyemouth by William III. ; but the title, being limited to heirs-male, is now extinct, f Parochial Registers. — No parochial registers or sessional records exist in this parish dated previous to 1 709. In a minute of kirk- session, dated 26th April 1716, the following statement occurs: " Mr Johnston represented that the minuts of the session in his cus- todie, from the year 1713 to the year 1716, were taken away by the violence of the time." From 1730, the entries in the registers of marriages, and of births and baptisms, are regular. Dissenters, however, do not generally register the names of their children. Antiquities. — Under the head of antiquities, we have only to mention the remains of a fortification upon the bold promontory to the north of the town, thence, in common parlance, called the Fort. It occupies the whole of the elevated ground, which is of a triangular shape, the apex of the triangle pointing to the sea. It was first erected by the Duke of Somerset in his famous expe- dition against Scotland in 1547, % s^d was shortly after demo- * As illustrative of the dependence of this town on the fisheries in former times, as well as latterly, it may be mentioned, that before the division of the runrig lands, there were several portions which were termed Fishers' Lands. Some of these were possessed by individual fishermen, others were held by a particular tenure, being the common property of a boat s crew. f Notoriety of a very different kind belongs to Sprot» a lawyer, who, if not a na- tive of the parish, at least practised as a writer in £yemouth for many years. He was the professional agent of Logan of Rcstalrig and Fastcastle ; and, shortly after the time of the Gowrie conspiracy, had let fall some liints which implied an acquain- tance with that mysterious affair. " These rumours, getting into circulation, reach- ed the Privy- Council, who ordered Sprot to be apprehended in the month of April 1(308. When examined before the Council, and by torture, he persisted for about two months in denying the fact, or in contradictory statements, to which no credit was given ; at last he confessed that Logan was concerned in the conspiracy with Gowrie, and that a correspondence had been carried on between them by means of Bar, a con- fidential servant of Logan's, who had inadvertently communicated the secret to him, and had shown him some of the letters from the conspirators, two of which he had pur- loined, one from Gowrie and another from Logan, which the Earl had returned af^er having read : Sprot was tried and convicted upon his own confession, and hanged the same day he was convicted. The judges appear to have doubted the truth of his tale, and seem to have hanged the unfortunate notary in a hurry, because they did not believe he was guilty, and were afraid of losing his evidence in support of a conspiracy for which the king's credit was pledged.**— A ikman's History of Scotland, Vol. iii. page 262. X The Protector, on the second day afler his arrival at Berwick, escorted by his own band of horsemen and a few more, rode to Eyemouth, where, having examined the inlet by which the small river Eye discharges itself into the sea, he found it would be a commodious place for a harbour ; and, soon af^er, ordered a fortress, for defend- ing its entrance, to be built on a promontory on its north side. Qf this fortress, he appointed Thomas Gower, marshal of Berwick, to be governor. ...Redpath's Border History, page 560. . ^ 32G BERWICKSHIRE. lished in teniis of a treaty concluded at Boulogne between France and England, '24th March 1550. A few years after. Regent Mary, wishing to involve Scotland in the war then raging be- tween France and England, ordered lyOysel, her general, to re- build these fortifications; who, though much harassed by the garrison of Berwick, succeeded in again putting the place into a state of defence. At the subsequent peace, however, it was a second time demolished ; and the next reign, which witnessed the union of the two kingdoms, deprived it of its importance as a border fortress, and prevented all attempts at its re-erectioo. From the circumstances just mentioned, the remains of the walls are very scanty : the outline of the fortifications, however, as indi- cated by the large grass-covered mounds, is everywhere observ- able, and shows it to have been a place of some strength. Be- ing considerably elevated above the town, and commanding a good sea view, the Fort is a favourite walk of the inhabitants, and is much frequented by the youth of the parish when engaged in their various sports.* Modern Buildings. — There are no buildings worthy of particu- lar notice in the parish, the old Manor House of Linthill only ex- cepted. It is a good specimen of that kind of architecture so hap- pily described by the author of Discipline and Self-Control, as characterizing the residences of the minor Scottish lairds, and, with its steep roofs and peaked and crowstepped gables, forms not an unpleasant feature in the landscape. The view from it is pleasing, embracing Captain Brown's villa of Netherbyres and its surrounding woods, Gunsgrcen House, and the shipping in the harbour of Eyeniouth, with the sea in the distance. In the town of Eyemouth arc many good dwelling-houses, but none entitled to particular attention. In Chambers' Picture of Scotland, it is observed, " that at one time all the people, high and low, young and old, rich and poor, were more or less engaged in smuggling, and no house was built without a view to accommodations for con- traband goods. The whole town has still a dark cunning look, is full of curious alleys, blind and otherwise, and there is not a single individual house of any standing but what seems as if it could un- fold its tales of wonder." There is no doubt that, during the greater part of last century, the contraband trade was pursued to * In the immediate neighbourhood of the Fort, there is a field called the Bans. foots, said to have been the scene of a battle in which the Scots, having been surpris- ed in tlieir beds, and not having time to put on their shoes, fought with bare feet and yet gained a decisive victory. EYEMOUTH. 327 a considerable extent by the inhabitants of Eyemouth ; but it is proper to add, that that illegal and, generally speaking, unsuccess- ful traffic has, for many years past, been entirely relinquished by them ; and that their wealth, if less than in former times, has at least been acquired in a more regular and creditable manner* III. — Population. 1. In 1755, the population of this parish was . 792 1791, - - - 930 1801, - . - 809 1821, . . . 1165 1831, . (males 542, females 639,) 1181 In 1831, males residing in the town, 504, Females, 692 in the country, 38, 37 639 m " 30 6 20 m 4 . 426 • 296 • 272 . 132 • 55 207 7 1 215 26 . 89 . 167 in the parish, 542^ 2. The average number of births yearly for the last seren years, of marriages, of deaths, 3. Insane and fatuous, 4. Persons under 15 years of age, ... between 15 and 30, - - - 30 and 50, 50 and 70, upwards of 70, - • 5. Inhabited houses in 1831, Uninhabited houses, • - • Houses building, .... Total number of houses in the parish, 6. Families chiefly employed in agriculture, in trade, in neither of the above, Total number of fiimilics in the parish, - 282 The average number of children in each family is about four. From the preceding statement, it will be seen that the popu- lation of this parish, for a number of years past, has been steadily on the increase. If any specific cause be required for the small amount of that increase within the last twelve or fifteen years, the only one which can be assigned is, that within that period, a large portion of the lands in the neighbourhood of the town, which was formerly let as one farm, has been divided into ten or twelve small possessions, and that the number of individuals, partly employed in agriculture, has, by that means, been increased to a trifling extent. The number of illegitimate births in the parish during the last three years was two. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy* — The parish of Eyemouth contains about 850 statute acres, and is all in a state of cultivation, with the exception of about 10 or 12 acres of banks. One-halC is managed after what is called the four, and the other half after the six-break system of husbandry* 328 BERWICKSHIRE. Rent of Land, Sfc. — The average rent of arable land in the parish is L. d, 10s. The duration of the leases is in some cases twelve, and in others nineteen years, the principal farm being let on a lease of twenty-one years. The lands are all in the highest state of cul- tivation, and, as may be inferred from the rent named, they are of the first quality. The sheep and cattle kept are commonly of the Leicester and short-horned or Teeswater breed. They are generally bought in to be fed on grass or turnips, very few being bred in the parish. Rate of Labour. — The rate of labour is for men during summer, Is. 8d. per day; and for women, Is.; and during winter for men. Is. 6(1. ; and for women, lOd. Joiners and masons are paid from ds. to ds. 6d. a-day in summer, and 2s. 6d. a-day in winter. Produce. — The gross annual value of produce, on an average of the last five years, may be stated as follows : viz. Acres. Wheat, 158; 90 imp. bushels per acre, at Cs. lOd. L. 1619 10 Straw, at L. 1, ]5«i. per acre, - 270 10 675 2 lOB 15 6 1190 262 10 450 ld5 L. 1890 783 17 6 1452 10 585 a 725 525 ;V¥) 528 120 Barley, 87 ; 42 imp. bushels per acre, at Ss. 9d. Straw, at L. 1, 5s. per acre, Oats, 175; 48 imp. bushels per acre, at 2s. lOd. Straw, at L. 1, 10s. per acre. Beans, GO; 86 imp. bushels per acre, at 4s. 2d. Straw, at L. 2, 06. per acre, Potatoes, 60; 10 tons, at L. 1, 5s. per ton, I'urnips, 105, eaten on the ground or carted, at L. 5 per acre, Hay, 55, ench yielding ;360 imp. stones, at 4d. per stone. Pasture, 13*2, gr.ized by cows at L. 4, or by sheep at 8s. 8d. each. Garden produce, ... Total yearly value of raw produce, - L. G939 7 6 Fisheries. — It is exceedingly difficult to state the annual value of the fisheries in the parish, as it is necessarily verj' fluctuating. The cod and haddock fishery is prosecuted by nine boats, each of which is manned by six men ; the yearly produce of whose labour, in this department, may be stated at L. 1890. The herring fishery has also at various periods been very productive; from 1809 to 1820, not less than 10,000 barrels being brought into Eyemouth yearly. * Upon these occasions, from 100 to 150 boats assembled at Eyemouth, and few sights more gratifying could be witnessed, than that of the little fleet setting sail on a fine summer even- ing, to take \ip their stations on the fishing ground, or returning at break of day, loaded with the treasures of the deep. Since 1820 • During these years, the prices of fresh herrings ranged between lOs. and 15s. per barrel : cured herrings brought from L. 1, 5s, to L. 1, 12s., according to quality. EYEMOUTH. 329 this fishing has been on the decline ; and, for some years past, even the boats belonging to Eyemouth have not remained on this coast, but proceeded to Sunderland, Wick, &c. to prosecute the fishing. By this change much injury has been done to the trade of the port of Eyemouth ; many valuable properties erected for the purpose of curing herrings have been rendered for a season altogether use- less ; and much lucrative employment has been lost to the poor of the town and neighbourhood. By the introduction of barilla at a low duty, the manufacture of kelp, which formerly afibrded em- ployment to a number of our poor people, has been also destroyed. Newcastle, Hull, and London, are the ports generally resorted to for the sale of smoked or red herrings ; white herrings are com- monly sent to Ireland, the Baltic, or the West Indies. The pro- duce of the cod fishery is exported to London either in a dried or pickled state. Navigation. — The following is a statement of the trade and shipping of Eyemouth for the last two years. Vessels of all descriptions which arrived and sailed in 1833, 201 ; in 1834, 198. Vessels with cargoes coast-wise in 1833, arrived 84, sailed 74; ditto in 1834, arrived 100, sailed 69 ; ditto from foreign ports, 1833, arrived 9, sailed 0; ditto in 1834, arrived 11, sailed 0. llie cargoes from foreign ports consist of timber, bones and rags ; those inwards coastwise, chiefly of coals, slates, bricks, and tiles, free and paving stones, and merchant goods. The quantity of coals imported in 1833, was 1935 tons 16 cwts. in 1834, 2367 tons 14 cwts. The cargoes outwards coastwise consist principally of grain, meal, flour, malt, and British spirits. \Vlicat exported in 1833, 2440 qrs. 5 bushels; in 1^34, 859 qrs. 1 bushel, Barley, 2309 3 Oats, 2293 Kye, 39 4 Pease, 115 6 Beans 245 6 Flour, 144 sacks Oat-meal, 38 bags Pearl barley, 113 Malt, British spirits 222 galloni 4274 5 2716 1 30 118 2 310 82 sacks, 28bagK, 89 qwirters 2758^ gallons. In the former Statistical Account it is stated, " this port is a branch of the custom-house of Dunbar, and our merchants are obliged to go there, which is a distance of twenty miles, to report every cargo, and to get sufieranccs to load or unload, and there- after to go back again for cockets and clearances, which is attend- 330 BERWICKSHIRE. ed with much dangerous delay, and no small expense." This grievance is now remedied, the principal officer of the customs here being impowered to enter and clear all vessels, except those to and from foreign ports. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Toums, Sfc. — Eyemouth, the only town] in the parish, and, it may be added, the only sea-port in the county of Berwick, is also the market-town of the surrounding district. As may be seen by referring to the former Statistical Account, grain to a consi- derable extent has, for many years past, been shipped here, — but the trade in com, like that in herrings, having seriously declined, it was proposed by several persons interested in the prosperity of the place, to establish a weekly stock-market for that article. At a meeting of farmers and dealers in grain, convened here in the beginning of January 1832, it was resolved that the market should be held weekly on Thursday ; and it is no slight proof of the pro- priety of this resolution, and of the benefit conferred by the mar- ket, both on Eyemouth, and on the surrounding district, that, dur- ing the first twelve months of its existence, grain to the value of L. 20,000 was sold in it. Considerable facilities were afforded for its establishment by the fact, that Eyemouth possessed an excel- lent harbour, and that the port charges were exceedingly moderate. The revival of the com trade has led to the erection of spacious granaries upon the quay within these two years, and a large build- ing at the north end of the town, which was used during the late war as a barrack for soldiers, and near which a battery was erect- ed for the protection of the town and harbour, has also been em- ployed of late for the storing of grain. To the same cause we are also indebted for the recent establishment of a branch of the Com- mercial Bank. When not engaged in the cultivation of their lands, the smaller tenants, who all reside in the Town of Eyemouth, are generally em- ployed in supplying the Edinburgh and Glasgow markets with fish ; and in winter, when tempted by the prospect of high prices, instances are not unfrequent of their finding their way even to Dumfries and Carlisle. As the Coldingham and Burnmouth boats generally rendezvous at Eyemouth, these land carriers are unable to transport the whole produce of the fishery to market ; a considerable part of it is, in consequence, sent by sea to New- haven and Port-Dundas. Eyemouth is a burgh of" barony. Mr Home of BiUie is the superior. Harbour. — « The WboMt ol ^^otvow\)s\;' ^^^ VW ^kbrated EYEMOUTH. 331 • Smeaton, <^ lies at the corner of a bay, in \vhich ships can work in and out at all times of the tide, or lie at an anchor secure from all winds, except the northerly or north-easterly. From this circumstance, its situation is very advantageous." At his recommendation, and agreeably to a plan furnished by him, a break-water pier was erect- ed in 1770, by which the harbour is defended from the north-east gales, to which it was previously exposed ; and since that time, by the clearing away of rocks, removing of shingle, erecting of wharf walls, &c the depth of water has been much increased, and the accommodation for shipping considerably enlarged. The flow of tide is nearly the same as at the other harbours on the coast, ave- raging 10 feet at neap tides, and 16 feet at spring tides. Be- ing situated at the entrance of the Firth of Forth, and easily accessible, it is much frequented by vessels prevented by contrary winds from prosecuting their voyages to the several parts ^ithin its limits, as also to those in the north of Scotland ; and there can be no doubt that every improvement effected upon it will increase the resort of such vessels, and thus afford additional accommodation to the trade of the country, and give increased security both to pro- perty and life. It is under the management of a board of trustees appointed by act of Parliament. Water was brought into Eyemouth some years ago, by means of iron pipes ; and the streets, which at that time were by no means in good repair, have all been recently re-paved. Thrashinff'MachineSf Sfc. — There are two thrashing-machines driven by water in the parish, and in the same building that con- tains one of them there is also machinery for sawing timber from the log, grinding bark, &c. There is a mill upon the river Eye, which is generally employed in manufacturing pearl barley, oat- meal, &C. for the London market At MillhsLuky just without the limits of the parish, there is a paper-mill, at which a number of our labouring-people find employment, and for which the supplies of coals, rags, &c. are imported here ; and Gunsgreen distillery, at which business to a very considerable amount is done annually, may also claim a notice from us, as it immediately adjoins the har- bour of Eyemouth ; and, both as to imports and exports, it is close- ly connected with this place. Means of Communication, — Eyemouth enjoys the advantage of a daily post, the office here being a sub-office to that at Ayton (two miles and a-half distant) through which the great London road passes. A runner is employed, who conveys the letters both to 332 BERWICKSHIRE. this Town and to Coldingham. The hour of departure is 8 a. m., of arrival 2 p. m. In no part of the country have roads been more improved than in the county of Berwick, during the last twenty years, and Eyemouth has received its share of the advantage con- nected with these improvements ; access from this to all parts of the country being now rendered both easy and safe. About four miles of road lie within the parish ; two miles and three quarters of which are parochial, and the remainder turnpike road. At Eye- mouth Bridge the turnpike road divides into two branches, one of which connects this parish with Ayton, Dunse, &c. by the north bank of the Eye, and the other by the south; both are maintained in good order, and the bridges, which respectively cross the Eye and the Ale, are substantial and in good condition. It may be added, that Captain Brown has very lately thrown a chain bridge across the Eye to afford an access to his property of Netherbyres. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church stands in the middle of the Town, and, though distant a mile and a-half from the extre- mities of the parish, yet, as so small a part of the population, only 75, resides in the country, it must be said to be conveniently situa- ted. It was built in 1812, and affords accommodation for about 450 sitters. We cannot say much of the taste which its external appearance indicates ; but we may add, that it is one of the most comfortable places of worship in this part of the country.* It was built at the expense of the heritors and feuars of the parish, and the sittings were allotted among them; but a large proportion, say 150 sittings, belonging to the principal proprietor, and which were not required for the accommodation of his tenants, are left quite free to the poorer part of the population. The ordinance of the Lord's supper is dispensed here twice a-year, and is attended bv from 300 to 320 communicants. Public worship is in general respectably attended, yet it must be added, that here, as in other places similarly situated, there are not a few " who forsake the as- sembling of themselves together." The number of families attending the Established church may be stated at 250 ; those attending the chapels of Dissenters and Seceders at 30. These go to Coldingham and Ayton, at which villages there are meeting-houses connected with the Associate Synod. There is a Baptist chapel in the town, whicli is not attend- ed by more than four or five members. Collections are made in church occasionally for charitable and re- * A new school and schoolmaster's house were also built in 1821. 4 EYEMOUTH. 333 ligious purposes, the average amount of which may be stated at L. 5 per annum. The victual stipend of the parish of Eyemouth is 80f imperial bolls of barley, (the ,boll being | of an imperial quarter,) 54i*5 bolls of oats, and Idj^^ of pease which, according to the average of the last five years, amounts to about L. 150. There is no al- lowance for communion elements. The teinds are exhausted. The fishing boats belonging to Eyemouth pay each L. 1, 13s. 4d. annually to the clergyman, and strangers are liable to pay half teind, or a twentieth part of the produce of their fishing. This may be collected to the extent of a thirtieth or less, and, in seasons when the herring fishery was in a prosperous state, added consider- ably to the value of the living. The manse is old and in bad repair, but is not inhabited by the present incumbent, who in lieu of it has an allowance of L. 30 per annum from the heritors. It ought to be mentioned, however, that the heritors are perfectly willing to build a new manse when required. The glebe extends to ten acres or thereby, and may be valued at L. 30 per annum.* Education. — The number of schools in the parish is seven ; three of which are taught by men, and four by women. The parish schoolmaster has the maximum salary, and the legal ac- commodation. One of the private schools is maintained by indi- vidual subscriptions, and the other by school fees. In the parish school Greek, Latin, English, &c are taught. The fee for En- glish reading is 2s. 6d. per quarter, for writing, 3s. 6d. for arith- * Eyemouth does not seem to have ranked as a separate parish till the period of the Reformation ; previous to that era it was a chapelry dependent on the priory of Coldingham ; and this facti taken in connection with its very limited extent, may ac- count for the very slight notices of it which are contained in the chartularics of that ancient establishment. Mr Alexander A. Carr, surgeon> Ayton, who is about to publish a work on the Antiquities of Coldinghamshire, has favoured me with the fol- lowing notice concerning the ecclesiastical state of this parish in former times. — ** In 1295, Gilbert, the priest (presbyter) of Eimuth, subscribed a charter granted liy Wil- liam, Bishop of St Andrews, to the monks of Durham, &c. ; and from that time down to the Reformation, the names of its chaplains are occasionally met with in the chartularies. During the fourteenth century, one of these rose to be Sacrist of Col- dingham priory, an office next in rank to that oC prior.** 'Vhe following notice, also furnished by him, may not inappropriately find a place here.—" A rental of Coldingham, made up in 1501, which is preserved in the Advo- cates* Library at Edinburgh, gives us a summary of the various ecclesiastical dues paid to it by the neighbouring parishes. From this it appears that the town of Eye- mouth paid yearly, (conjointly with a piece of land called Blackman*s or B]ackmain*s acre,) 42 shillings, 3 pennies, and 74 heads of poultry. The lands of Beanrig, held in feu-farm by Sir Alexander Home of Manderstone, paid yearly 48 shillings and 4 pennies, with 7 fowls. The mill of Eyemouth, held by William Home of Pren- derguest, contributed L. G. Somehow or other the lands of Linthill are not rated in the rental, unless they are taken conjointly with those of Highlawa, vVxvdi'^\<^ shillings and 4 pennies.** 334 BERWICKSHIRE. metic, including practical mathematics, navigation, and other branches, 5s. for Latin, French, &c. 7s. 6d., and for Greek, 10s. 6d. : when English grammar is added to any of the preceding, 6d. ex- tra is charged quarterly. The amount of fees received by the teacher of the parish school varies from L. 25 to L. 30 a-year. In one of the private schools the same branches of education are taught as in the parish school, and the fees, it is believed, are some- what similar to those mentioned ; in the other, English reading, writing, and arithmetic only are taught In the female schools, sewing, reading, &c. are taught. Not above two or three indivi- duals are known to the writer who are not able to read, and these are persons somewhat advanced in life. Among the young such a thing can now scarcely happen ; as, independently of the moderate sum charged for instruction, the heritors, for many years past, have been in the habit of paying the fees of those who, from poverty or other causes, are thought entitled to that accommodation. A re- ligious society in the town also expends its funds in the education of the children of poor fishermen. In general, it may be stated that the people are anxious to obtain education for their children, and that the facilities for that purpose now enjoyed have had their usual effects in the improvement of the manners and general good conduct of the parishioners. Two Sabbath schools are alsoMught in the town ; one in the church by the minister, parochial school- master, and other assistants; the other by one of the private teachers. At the examinations in March last, the number of scholars at- tending all the schools in the parish was 191. Literature. — A parochial library, consisting chiefly of books of divinity, history, biography, &c. was established by general sub- scription in the year 1821. The funds were increased by a very handsome donation of L. 10 from George Buchan, Esq. of Kelloe, and since that period a collection has been made in church at least once a-year for its benefit From these causes it is now in a^ prosperous condition. The yearly subscription is two shillings. Charitahle Institutions. — A Friendly Society was established in this parish in the year 1759 ; and, with varying prosperity, it has existed ever since. Like many institutions of the same nature, being founded on erroneous principles, it was, a few years ago, brought to the brink of ruin. At that period, however, the an- nual subscriptions of its members were increased, and the allow- ances to sick were diminished, in accordance with the tables pub- lished by the HigVvlaivd Society \ ^wd \\. is uow once more in a safe EYEMOUTH. 335 and prosperous condition. It has an income of L. 36 a-year from land situated \vithin the parish, and of course ranks as an heritor. Such an institution must have a tendency to promote industry and to excite a desire for independence; yet the extreme readiness some- times manifested, even in the case of trifling aihnents, to take ad- vantage of its provisions, shows that those feeUngs of independence are not so strong as they ought to be. The allowance given at the death of a member is L. 6, and to the poor widow and her destitute family it is a most seasonable and grateful relief. Per- haps the existence of such an institution in the parish may go far to account for the fact, that a savings bank, though twice tried here, has never succeeded. The nearest bank of that description is one established at Dunse. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of stated paupers on the roll last year was 35 ; and the sum raised by legal assessment for their support was L. 199, 16s. lO^d. The landward part of parish, which alone is rated, being small, this forms a heavy bur- den on the heritors and their tenants, and the experience of the last few years sufficiently shows that it is a burden progressively increasing. Assessments have produced their usual efiects here in weakening the feeling of honest independence, which formerly so much characterized the people of Scotland ; and, so far from there being now any aversion to apply for parochial relief, there is rather a disposition to demand it as a right. The average of church collections may be stated to amount to L. 26 annually. These are distributed among the industrious poor by the minister and session, without any interference on the part of the heritors. Fairs. — Two fairs are held annually in the parish, at which, however, no business is transacted. Inns. — In the former Statistical Account, it is observed, " there are very few law pleas or disputes in this parish, because we have only one writer. There is one good inn, and too many alehouses." With the latter part of the quotation the writer most cordially agrees. We have no fewer than 14 alehouses; and, as two or three would be amply sufficient for all the business transacted in the town, it may easily be supposed that the effect of such a num- ber upon the morals of the people must be most pernicious. Fuel. — Fuel is abundant and cheap in this parish, being pro- cured by land carriage from Berwick at an average price of 9s. per ton ; and from the Firth of Forth and Newcastle at average rates of 10s. and 12s. respectively. 336 BERWICKSHIRE. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the former Statistical Account was written, the rental of this parish has been more than doubled, the natural consequence of the improved management of the lands, and of the high prices ob- tained for all kinds of agricultural produce during the late war. Should prices, however, remain long at their present level, the rental must again decline, as the returns at present received by the farmer are far from being remunerating. During the last thirty years, the condition of the labouring part of our population has also been much improved. They are better fed and better dres- sed than formerly ; and it is believed that, in respect of cleanli- ness, they may justly claim their full share in the improvement, in this respect, which is acknowledged to have taken place among the peasantry of Scotland. To no part of our population do these remarks apply with more accuracy than to our fishermen and their families. In every community the idle and the dissipated will be found ; and the uncertainties of a sea-faring life seem unfortu- nately, in many instances, to give increased force to evil habits ; yet, generally speaking, it may with safety be asserted, that they are a sober, industrious, and well-behaved set of men. They go to sea in boats of not less than nine tons register, (worth L. 80, in- cluding tackling and nets,) which are their own property ; and, in place of creeping along the coast, as their fathers were accustom- ed to do, they launch boldly out into the deep, (proceeding some- times to a distance of twenty miles from shore,) and bring in large cargoes of fish of the best quality, to supply the markets of the country. Formerly, very few of them were in the habit of at- tending public worship ; the greater part of them now attend it with tolerable regularity ; and the young amongst them present them- selves as candidates for admission to the Lord's table in nearly the same proportion, to their entire number, as is found to exist among the other classes of the community. Our streets are better paved and better kept than formerly ; yet further improvement is still needed, and were the inhabitants to avail themselves of the provisions of an act of Parliament lately passed, to enable small towns like Eyemouth to maintain an effective police, &c. that improvement, it is believed, might be effected. It has been mentioned, that the roads leading from this place to all parts of the country are good. A bridge over the Whitadder, somewhere between Chirnside and Hutton, would tend much to improve our access to Tweedside, and to insure the prosperity of the corn market \ale\y eslaVAvsWA. Vv^te, January 1835. PARISH OF MORDINGTON. PRESBYTERY OF CHIRNSIDE, SYNOD OF MERSE AND TIVipTDALE. THE REV. GEORGE FULTON KNIGHT, A. M. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Boundaries^ Extent^ S^c. — Tins parish is situated in the south* east corner of the county of Berwick. It is bounded on the north by the parish of Ayton ; on the east, by the German Ocean, and the liberties of the town of Berwick on Tweed ; on the south, by the river Whitadder ; and on the west, by the parishes of Hutton and Foulden. Its form is irregular, somewhat resembling a sand- glass, or the letter g, — on the narrow part of which stand the church and manse ; the parish is there only the breadth of the glebe. Its length from north to south is between 3 and 4 miles ; its great- est breadth, which is towards the northern extremity, is above 2 miles. Its original extent was very small, consisting only of the barony of Mordington and the estate of Edrington, till the year 1650, when the lands of Lamberton (of much greater extent than the whole of what, before that period, constituted the parish) were disjoined from the parish of Ayton, and annexed to Mordington. In the year 1666, Mordington was disjoined from part of what is ^ now the parish of Longformacus, — when the latter, together with other lands from surrounding parishes, was erected into a new parish. Topographical Appearances. — The north part of the parish con- sists of high ground, containing many commanding eminences, — from which is obtained an extensive and splendid prospect of the Merse of Berwickshire, and the wooded and picturesque banks of the Tweed, Whitadder, and Blackadder, together with a considerable part of the county of Northumberland, — while the view is terminated on the south by the bold and lofty range of Cheviot ; and on the west, by Ruberslaw, the Eildons, and the Lammermuirs. Toward the east, this highest part of the parish commands a view of the Ger- man Ocean, Holy Island, Bamborough Castle, &c. At the extreme north-west of this high ground, there are the remains of a caws^ BERWICK. \ :J88 WKUWICKSIIIRE. most distinctly and broadly marked, which, from its circular form, seems to be Danish. The hill on which it stands is called Hab or Habchester. The remains of this camp consist of two tren- ches, 18 or 20 feet high, which seem to have been faced with stones. Half of the circle remains entire, which half is in Mor- dington parish, and in which it would seem no change has taken place since its construction. The form of the other half, lying in the parish of Ayton, is scarcely discernible, having been plough- ed down. No station could have been better selected for observ- ing the movements of an enemy, and for keeping up a commu- nication with the German Ocean, which is not more than a mile distant from it.* Another eminence, about a mile south-east of Habchester, is the spot where the last person burned for witchcraft is alleged to have undergone that fate, — so late as the beginning of the seventeenth century. It is still called the JVttch*s Knoice. The ground falls by a gentle and gradual descent from this place towards the south, for more than half the length of the parish, till it reaches the river Whitadder, its southern boundary. On the east, it descends towards the sea. The coast of the parish exhibits a continued unbroken line of abrupt rocks, which contain some ca- verns that were much used by smugglers in foreign spirits, before the erection of a Preventive station at Burnmouth. Detached mas- ses of rock of considerable size stand out into the sea in one or two places, and some of them present an aspect of grandeur and subli- mity. The romantic and sequestered fishing village of Ross, at the northern extremity of the parish, is too much an object of in- terest to the admirers of picturesque scenery not to be noticed. It stands at the foot of a ledge of almost perpendicular rocks divided by a rivulet, which, in rainy seasons, forms many beautiful cas- cades, — while the sea foam beneath, and the cottages standing almost close upon high water mark, give the scene a very striking appearance. Climate, — The climate of this parish is generally salubrious. The prevailing winds are west and south, which are frequently vio- lent. The east winds on the coast are cold ; but the inhabitants are generally healthy and robust. Among the labouring classes, rheumatism is the most common complaint : there are no distem- pers, however, peculiar to the district. Hydrography — The Whitadder is the only river in the parish, and forms its southern boundary ; its many windings and precipi- * Of this camp, further notice is taken in tlic Account of the parish of Ayton. MORDINGTON. 339 tons banks, clad with wood and moss-covered rocks, possess great beauty. Geology and Mineralogy. — There are two divisions of rocks in the parish, the upper and the under. The upper consists of a large mass of nnstratified rocks, the principal of which are por- phyry and trap. The lower consists of stratified rocks, which appear along the sea coast on the north-east, and also on the banks of the Whitadder on the south. Although there has been considerable dispute of late years among geologists about what these last are, it is now generally agreed that they are the lower members of the coal formation, or the carboniferous series. The strata, as seen in the « ravines and river sides of the lower parts of the parish, consist of numerous alternating beds or strata of shale, sandstone, and indurated marl. The general direction of these strata seems to be from west to east, the dip generally at a considerable angle) but so various, that it is impossible to state the general angle. Beyond the boundaries of the parish to the south, these rocks are succeeded by the coal field of Northunxberland. As a circumstance tending to confirm the conclusion, that the lower division of the parish belongs to the old coal formation, and not to the new red sandstone, as has been supposed by several geologists, we may mention the fact, that coal does make its ap* pearance at several places near the sea coast of the parish, — that various attempts have been made to work it, — and that, from its importance, the present proprietor has lately made several inves- tigations with the view of working it. Some old pits and mines have been cleared, which are believed to have been wrought half a century ago, and by which two work- able seams of coal have been discovered, an upper and an under; the former 13 inches thick, and of good quality; the latter 26. It is stated by fishermen, that a third much lower and thicker is to be seen at very low tides. The proprietor has not yet completed his investigations, but, from the great depth of the coal, except when approached below the coast rocks, and near high water-mark, the working of it would seem likely to be attend- ed with some difficulty. Lime in considerable quantity has been found in the vicinity of the coal, but it is of an inferior quality. On this coast, a mile or two south-east of the village of Iloss, the sandstone strata are nearly vertical^ — which, indeed, we may naturally expect from their vicinity to the trap rocks. In other 340 BERWICKSHIRE. parts of the parish, it is impossible to perceive the junction of the trap and the sandstone, on account of the thick covering of soil. It may be mentioned, that in the strata of shale and indurated marl below Edrington House, a (evf vegetable fossils have been found. Zoology. — There are no animals, wild or tame, peculiar to the parish. The rarer wild animals are, otters on the banks of the Wliitadder, wild ducks on the higjh grounds, and herons. Foxes abound in the lower parts of the parish on the Edrington estate, and badgfers are met with among: the sea rocks. The comraon kinds of game, as hare, partridge, black-cock, dotterel, and wood- cock, arc plentiful. These last are sometimes found in the early part of the season, weak and exhausted, probably by their long flight across the German Ocean. Brown and silver pheasants are occasionally found in the woods of Edrington. This coast has long been famed for white fish, every variety of which is to be found on it, and is sent chiefly to the Edinburgh market by sea. Cod, ling, and haddock are the most common kinds. Salmon are also found on the coast, and have been fished with bag-nets. There are no oysters nor muscles ; but lobsters and crabs are plentiful ; the former are sold chiefly for the Lon • don market to smacks which pass the coast at stated intervals. The Whitadder contains trout and salmon, which ascend the river in spawning time. Botany, — For the more common plants in this as in the adjoin- ing parishes, the reader is referred to the " Flora of Berwick- on-Tweed," by Dr Johnston. The following habitats of some rarer plants additional to those given in the Flora may be men- tioned ; Fedia olitoria^ found by Mr Carr, surgeon. Ay ton, in the ravine above Ross : Parietaria officinalis^ on the side of the old aisle of the former church, in front of Mordington House, by the same i Rosa ruhiginosa^ on the sea banks half way between Ross and Lamberton Sheills, a single shrub, but perfectly wild, by Dr Johnston : Senecio tniiiifoUus^ in the lane between Edrington and Cocklaw. * H. — Civil History. Antiquities. — The church or chapel of Lamberton, which was either at one time a parish church, or, as seems more probable, a chapel of ease to Ayton, and an adjunct of the Abbey of C^old- ingham, is celebrated as having been the place where King * Dr Johnston, although very extensively employed as a medical practitioner, finds leisure to cultivate, and with eminent success, several departments of natural history. MOIIDINGTON. 341 James IV. of Scotland, and Margaret, daughter of Henry VII. of England, were contracted in marriage in the year 1503, — which paved the way for the happy union, first of the two crowns, and af- terwards of the two kingdoms. This chapel has now nothing re- maining but part of the outer walls, and is used as the burying- place of the family of Mr Ronton of Lamberton. The old castle of Edrington, of which but a small part also has escaped the mutilating hand of time, is situated at the south of the parish, on the top of an almost perpendicular rock, which is clad with wood, and washed by the winding Whitadder below. Like many of the old forts in this neighbourhood, it was the scene of frequent contests in the border wars. Its possession was often in- cluded in treaties between the kings of England and Scotland. In the year 1534, it was restored by Henry VIII. to James V., from the latter of whom it had been taken in a former war, — Henry declaring that he made this restitution as a proof of his gratitude, benevolence, and friendship for the Scottish king. The posses- sion of this castle, and the lands connected with it, was thus con- firmed to the King of Scotland and his subjects, its former owners, free from molestation or injury on the part of the King of Eng- land, his vassals, or subjects, or the inhabitants of the town and castle of Berwick-on- Tweed ; and it probably continued in this situation till the union of the two kingdoms. From its command- ing situation, it seems to have been singularly well fitted for de- fence, especially from the south, and was likely to have been re- garded by the English as an important out-post when they were in possession of the town of Berwick.* Eminent Men. — Under this head there is nothing to be men- tioned, — except that the Rev. Alexander Lauder, who wrote a work against Episcopacy, and lived in the beginning of last century, was minister of this parish. IIL — Population. In 1755» thu population was only - 181 In 1792, it had increased to - d35 By the census of 1821, it was - UQ2 of 1831, . dOl * It is worthy of notice, that below this castle, and close by the bank of the river, there is a flour-mill belonging to the proprietor of this ])art of the estate, the water- wheel of which not only drives the mill, but also a thrashing-machine, situated ui>- wards of «'KX) feet above it, by means of a sh:ii\ (i(N) feet long, which runs through a tunnel in the rock above. This is an instance of the distance to which the powers of machinery may l>e transferred by the application of very simple means. On the estate of Upper Edrington there is a sciiuestered glen, wliich is said to have given rise to the old Scottish song of" Ti!>by Fowler o' the Glen." 342 BERWICKSHIRE. This decrease in the population since 1792 is chiefly to be as- cribed to the union of small farms, and the consequent diminution in the number of farm-servants. 1. Yearly avermge of births, marriages, deaths, 2. Average number of persons under J 5 years of age between 15 and 30, 30 and 50, 50 and 70, above 70, t I 4 12G 54 85 3:1 10 d. Niunber of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 7 of unmarried women, and widows, upwards of 45, - - 10 4. Average number of children in each family, - - - 6 5. Number of families in the parish, - - - 58 of inhabited houses, - - - - 59 of uninhabited, - - - - 5 It may be noticed, as an instance of the longevity of fisher- men, that there is at present a boat's crew of four men belonging to the villages of Ross and Burnmouth, whose united ages amount to 301 years. Though no longer able for the rougher toils of their mode of life, they employ themselves in lobster-catching. Cliaracter oftlie People. — The inhabitants of this parish are in general frugal and industrious, orderly in their habits, and con- tented with their condition. They present an illustration of the high superiority of the purely agricultural districts over the manu- facturing, in regard to the general character of the population. No inhabitant of the parish has been convicted of a crime before a court of justice in the memory of man. As this parish lies on the border between Scotland and Eng- land, the illicit traffic of smuggling Scotch whisky into England is carried on to a considerable extent at two public-house» on the turnpike-roads to Berwick-on- Tweed. Those who engage, how- ever, in this unlawful employment, are persons of low character from Berwick, who buy the spirits at these two public-houses, and convey them secretly into England. A guard of excise officers, which is maintained by Government at considerable expense, traverses the roads, — by which means the traffic has lately somewhat decreased, but it is still carried on to a considerable extent; and its demo- ralizing influence on those engaged in it, is lamentably apparent. No remedy, however, seems likely to avail, but an equalizing of the duties on spirits in the two countries. IV. — Industry. This parish may be regarded as exclusively agricultural ; for, with the exception of the small fishing village of Ross, it is entire- MOllDINGTON. 343 ly devoted to the occupation of husbandry. There are 40 males employed in agriculture, 6 in handicrafts, 14 are engaged in fisheries, and there are at present 4 superannuated labourers. Agriculture. — The parish contains 2597 acres of cultivated land, 26 acres in plantations, and 900 acres uncultivated ; these last are part of the lands of Lamberton, which, though generally spoken of as " muir land," consist to a very great extent of most profitable pasture ground ; and a considerable part of it was forty years ago under the plough. Since that period, this land has been in per- manent pasture, consisting of dry uplands. This forms about three-fourths of the whole of the land on the farm of Lamberton not at present cultivated. Tlie remainder consists of boggy or marshy grounds, and about 100 acres of heath land ; which, from its rocky barren nature, seems to be the only soil in the parish which it would be impossible to cultivate to advantage. At pre- sent, owing to the extremely low price of grain, and from the uncultivated ground rearing such good and healthy stock, the price of which is unusually high, it is deemed unadvisable to plough any part of it; but, should a period arrive, when, from a change in the state of markets, it might be considered advantageous to im- prove this land, the whole might be again made arable at very little expense. It is supposed that 800 acres might, with a profitable applica- tion of capital, be added to the cultivated land of the parish. ReiU of Land. — The average rent of arable land in the parish is L. 1, 5s. per acre. Cows are grazed at L. 5 for the season. Wages of Labour. — Labourer's wages are the same as in all the neighbouring parishes, viz. 10s. in summer per week, and 9s. in win- ter ; artisans 2s. 6d. per day. The practice prevails here, as in neigh- bouring parishes, of having farm work performed by what is called bondage service. Farm-servants, called hindsy are paid, as in other parishes, partly ingrain, and partly in money. Their general allow- ance is, of oats, 9 bolls, of six imperial bushels ; of barley 3 ditto of ditto ; pease 1, ditto of ditto ; an allowance of L. 4 Sterling, which among them is called sheep-money^ in lieu of a small number of sheep they formerly were permitted to keep ; and a cow's grass, with ali- ment for the cow in winter. There is thus secured to themselves and their families a fixed supply of the necessary articles of sub- sistence, whatever may be the state of the market. This mode of paying farm-servants keeps them from ever being in want, while they are able to work ; and deprives them, in a great measure, of 344 BERWICKSillRE. the power of spending money imprudently. The very favourable effect of it, therefore, on the morals of the people is too important not to deserve special notice. Hmhandry. — The situation of this parish is peculiarly favour- able to the purposes of agriculture, the lands in general consLsting of a dry and manageable soil, which the skilful farmer can turn to great advantage ; and the climate being so favourable, that grain, even in the latest seasons, is commonly brought to maturity. There is a ready market for every kind of farm produce at the to^^n of Berwick-on- Tweed, which is only four miles distant There com is sold by sample, and the utmost punctuality observed by the corn- merchants, as to payment. To the recently established market at Eyemouth corn is also sent. Some part of this is disposed of to the millers in the neighbourhood, whose mills on the banks of the Whitadder (one of which lies in this parish) manufacture a consider- able quantity of meal, flour, barley, &c. The wool-staplers from Yorkshire come here at particular seasons to purchase the wool ; while fat stock is sold to dealers from Morpeth, — to fleshers in Berwick, — and at a monthly market at Ayton. Berwick supplies the agriculturist with manure, which is much used in turnip husbandry, though within these five of six years bone-dust has been greatly in request. Bones in considerable quantity are imported at Berwick from Prussia and other conti- nental countries, — are ground at mills in the neighbourhood, — and sold at from 18s. to 20s. per imperial quarter. This kind of ma- nure has greatly superseded the former, being suitable for the light soil of the parish ; and it is more easily, and at less expense, convey- ed to the higher grounds. Very considerable improvements in the cultivation of the soil have taken place during the last ten or twenty years. Draining has been and is carried on to a very considerable extent, so that the land has become greatly more pro- ductive. Every species «f white and green crops is raised, parti- cularly barley, pats, turnips, and artificial grasses. Wheat and beans are raised in smaller quantities than the other kinds of grain, because not so suitable to the light soil of the parish. The usual rotation of crops is, first oats, then turnips; after these, barley with grass'sceds, which makes hay the succeeding crop; and the ground upon which it is raised is commonly allowed to remain for some years in grass for pasture, — after which it is again taken up and ma- naged according to the above rotation. There is always, however, a great proportion of the land in grass, and to this the tenants MOUDlNCiTON. 345 are commonly bound down in their leases, which extend to the term of nineteen years; and they are seldom permitted to have more than the half of their land in tillage. But the crop which ought especially to be noticed, on account of the improvements recently made in the mode of its cultivation, is the turnip crop. Turnip husbandry is conducted in this parish on an extensive scale. Turnips are highly valuable for feeding cattle during winter, either on neighbouring grass-fields into which they are carried, or by being used in houses or sheds. On the light and dry soil, of which the greatest part of the parish consists, the feeding of sheep on the ground where turnips grow is consi- dered highly advantageous, and is the method universally adopted. The ruta baga^ or Swedish turnip, whose hardy and durable qua- lity renders it so advantageous to the farmer after the early tur- nip has been used, is cultivated in the proportion of one-third to the white globe-turnip. The land on an average may yield 5 bolls of 6 bushels of wheat per acre ; 6^ of barley ; and 7 J of oats. Pease is a crop scarcely at all raised, except in the lower parts of the parish, where the land will yield from 6 to 8 bolls per acre ; and of hay no more is raised than is necessary to supply the horses, cattle, &c. in the parish ; but on an average of seasons, the crop amounts to from 180 to 220 stones per acre. Potatoes are raised in small quantities for home consumption, and generally a^nount to from 25 to 30 bolls of 40 imperial stones, per acre. An acre of turnip will pasture ten sheep for six months. The ground is farm- ed under the four-shift husbandrv. Produce. — The gross amount of the raw produce yearly raised in the parish may be as follows: Proout the period of the Revolution and sub- sequently, it was written Ligertwood and sometimes Legertwood, — which last form is still retained by the older people. It is most probably derived from the Saxon word signifying "/Ac holloto woodj** or " the hollow part of the wood," — which when the country was covered with trees, would be exactly descriptive of the principal farm which still bears that name. Boundaries^ Extent. — It is bounded, on the north, by part of Westruther parish and Boon Z>re?y72, a small stream which separates it from the parish of L#auder ; on the west, excepting in one place where it crosses that river a short wav, bv the Leader, which divides 348 BERWICKSHIRE. it from the parishes of Lauder and Melrose ; on the south, by the parish of Earlstoun; and on the east, by the parishes of Gordon and Westruther. Its greatest length from Punes-haugh Bridge on the south, to Dodds Mill, on the north, is 6 miles; and its breadth from Bridge-end, on the west, to Stockbridge, on the east, is 4^ miles. These, however, are extreme points, and a more correct idea may be conveyed of its extent by stating it at 5 miles in length by 3 in breadth. The boundary line is irregular : and of two portions into which its area is divided by a pretty deep valley, the northern and longest is, until near its upper limit, not much less than 3^ miles in breadth, — while the southern, indented deeply by the pa- rish of Gordon, scarcely exceeds 2^ miles. The whole parish con- tains about 15 square miles. Topographical Appearances, — The greater part of the parish lies high; the northern part, especially, which maybe described as form- ing with Westruther the contiguous parish on the east, a table land of considerable elevation, extending from the narrow vallev of the Leader to the base of the Lammermoor hills. The surface of this portion is not level, but consists of three ridges of hills, with high valleys intervening — the two southernmost of these ridges stretching from east to w^est, and the northern striking off from them in a northerly direction, and terminating in a round massive height named " Boon Hill," which rises 1090 feet above the level of the sea. The southern part of the parish is entirely occupied by one hill, which, on the south, slopes gradually into the vale of Earlston, and on the east towards the boundary of Gordon. Of the elevations generally, it ought to be stated, that they agree in having their direction nearly east and west, and in having their abruptest end almost westward, and a gentle declivity as they range to the east. Clhnate, — The cold and moisture are considerably greater than in the Merse and many parts of the Lothians, owing to the eleva- tion of the land, want of shelter, want of draining, and contiguity to the Lammermoors. The frosts in winter are understood to be more intense than in these parts, and the falls of snow are heavier, and continue longer on the ground. The crops in autumn are generally later by a week, and, in backward seasons, by a fortnight, than in the lowest grounds of the Merse. On the whole, how^- ever, the climate is not insalubrious. Of the very limited population, it may be noticed that there are 22 individuals betwixt sixty and seventy, most of whom are still ac- LEGERWOOD. 349 tive, and 5 above seventy ; one of the latter is considerably above eighty, and another has attained to the great age of ninety-four. The people are no doubt indebted in a great degree for the bles- sing of robust health, to comfortable accommodation, temperate habits of life, and regular and bracing employment Hydrography. — There are perennial springs of excellent water in all parts of the parish, which appear to flow from sandstone rock, and^frequcntlythrough gravel or through sand. It is said that there was formerly a loch of considerable extent on the lands of Cors- bie; and'tlmt it enclosed a small wooded mount, on which the ruins are still standing of an ancient tower, the residence of the old possessors of the barony. The sheet of water, however, if it did remain entire until so late a period as to encircle this seclud- ed fortalice, has long been drained off, and its bason is now partly unimproved moss, and chiefly meadow pasture. The Leader washes the western boundarj' of the parish on its way to the Tweed. The Eden, a very small stream, has its source on the farm of Boon, and after a course of about fifteen miles, falls into the Tweed below Newton Don. Several nameless ri- vulets convey the superfluous moisture to the Leader, or the Eden, and in the northern parts of the parish into Boon Dreigh, a tri- butarv of the Leader. GeoloyyySfc. — The whole eastern part of the parish, together with the northern side of the valley of Legerwood, rests upon secon- dary sandstone; and the hills in the northern part, excepting Boon Hill, which appears to consist of conglomerate, have been raised by graywacke. This rock abounds in veins, filled, so far as I have seen, with clay. At one place, where a quarrj- has been opened for dikes, these veins appear to cut each other sit right angles ; some running almost due north, others east. Immediately above the bridge at Dodds Mill, on the Edinburgh road, a striking effect may be seen, produced by the action of water upon this vefnous rock, which arrested the attention of the French traveller, M. Fau- jas St Fond. The stream has uncovered a pretty large mass, and by washing away the soft veins which lay parallel to its course, has caused the hard rock to present an appearance which might be mistaken at first sight for columnar biisalt. In a scientific point of view, it does not seem to possess much interest ; but its ap- pearance is attractive, especially if the formation be mistaken for columnar. The end, covered with ivy, of the edifice upon which the mill-wheel turns, and the trough that conveys the iux- 3J0 URRWtCKSHIRE. pelling stream, abut upon the little cataract; and the wh' shaded by some thriving trees. In consequence of lying than the road, too, it b not observed until the passenger is a in a condition to look down upon it, when the real scene nn most be forgotten, in the likeness which it presents to a Dutc ture. The hill which has been said to occupy the southern pi the parish is formed principally of conglomerate, resting on v on the southern aspect of the hill, is a shivered graywacke, more granular than the compact and solid stone at Dodds with frequent strata of camstone or slaty graywacke in thin 1 much hardened, and at one place of the road tpiany, wher revealed, enveloping with several concentric folds an imbedded of the principal rock. Minute portions of copper of good quality have been : washed out by the rain, on the farm of Dodds. It is behei be present in small quantities over a large part of the ditsrict i at a distant period, to have been wrought in the Lammem No mine for that or any other metallic ore has ever been oj in this parish. None of the simple minerals have been fou the rocks, excepting veins and occasionally small crystals of spar, and pieces of common quartz. The rolled stones i occur in the fields are generally sandstone, graywacke, cams and porphyry, pieces of which abound on Legerwood hill, may form the top of the highest eminence, resting on the tu A formation here called Moorband, (clay with imbedded s indurated by iron,) is found at several places in thin but prett tensive masses near the surface.* It seems to be a sort of bog- forms rapidly, and, unless broken up and removed, which i easily accomplished, is both a bar to the plough and destroys ^ tation. Peat of great depth and excellent quality is abun< but it is not permitted to be cut : and, excepting in a few insta and very sparingly, that fuel is not used. There is a considerable variety of soils in the parish, whL general take their character from the underlying rock. Upon ] Hill, the soil is clayey and very deep, and upon much of Leger Hill also the soil is a deep reddish clay. The graywacke is c ed to the top of the hills by a thin gravelly and untransported which, on their sides, becomes deep and productive; and upoi LEGKRWOOD. 351 sandstone rock, wherever the soil is good, it is a mixed soil, part- ly its own, with detached masses, and partly transported from the conglomerate of the hills. There is also resting upon it occa- sionally, chiefly in spots, or at the ends of fields, a soil of pure peat earth, which, though damp, appears to be quickened to some fertility. A considerable portion, however, of unreclaimed heath, (much of which is considered incapable of being improved,) rests upon this rock, and consists of a thin lay^r of sand or gravel mixed with, or underlying, peat earth. II. — Civil History. Eminent men. — The Rev. William Calderwood, who was minis- ter of this parish at the period of Episcopal domination in the reigns of the two last of the Stewart family, is entitled to notice, not as having acted in an eminent sphere, but worthily, during the unequal struggle which presbytery had then to maintain, — and also on account of his familv, as he is understood to have been the son or nephew of the church historian. He was admitted to his charge in 1655, and in 1662, along with the great proportion of the talent and worth which still remained in the church, he was turned out for nonconformity to the Acts of Glasgow. Being much beloved by the people, he remained among them for a considerable time after his expulsion, and when at last he had removed from their neigh- bourhood, he often visited them privately. It appears to have been on account of the meetings which took place at these visits, that the parish was fined for holding conventicles in August 1684,* He returned to his charge in 1689, and died in 1709, at the ad- vanced age of eighty-one, having earned a high reputation, (which still survives him in the place,) both for sanctity of life, and mini- sterial faithfulness.f Land-owners. — The land-owners are, according to their valued rents, Henry Ker Seymer, Esq. of Morriston; The Most Noble The Marquis of Tweeddale; Miss Innes of Stow; John Spottiswoode Esq. of Spottiswoode ; Dr Scott of East Morriston ; Colonel Shil- linglaw of Birkhillside ; Mr Fairholm of Chapel. Historical Notices. — The whole land in the parish, or at least Birkenside, Whitslaid, Legerwood, and the Morristons, belonged before the twelfth century to the family of Stewart. J About the * Preface to 2d vol. Wodrow. For tlic extent of the parish, the finc» which was L. 1606, Ids. 4<1., appears to have been severe. •f Tliree fugitives, also lielonging to this parisli, arc included in the proclamation of this year (1684) : Alexander Brown, in Berkensidc, and Thomas Carter and John Pringle, both in Ligertwood. ± Chalmers* Caledonia, Art. Legerwood. 352 UKKwicKSHiue. year 1160, Malcolm IV. granted to his Stewart, Walter, tl of Alan, — Bircliensyde and Legerdeswode, as they had beer by his grandfather David in liis demesne. Walter, his grai and the third Stewart, ^ve the lands of Birchensyde in ma: with his daughter Euphcmia, to Patrick, who succeeded as of Dunbar in 1232 ; and Robert the Stewart, who succeeded throne, granted to Alan de Lauder, his tenant of Whitslaid, manorial rights in Birchensyde, Legerdswode, and Morristo' a grant which was confirmed by King Robert II. 13th June The family of Lauder were still in possession of Whitsi 1635. It afterwards belonged to the Montgomeries of Ma< hill ; * and, along with Birkenside, came bj purchase into th( session of Mr Innes of Stow. Morriston and Lcgerwood w€ 1635, in the possession of the ancient family who still hold it. barony of Corsbie appears at an early period to have belong the Cranstouns of Oxenford, and in 1635 it was still in thei session. Dodds afterwards passed to the Hays of Mordingtoi then came by purchase to ihe family of Spottiswoode. The i the barony, comprehending the farms of Boon and Corsbie, ht to the Most Noble the Marquis of Tweeddale. East Morriston, in 163.5, belonged*) Francisand John Wil It was afterwards the property of Mr Peter of Chapel, and wai chased by the late Thomas Scott, Esq. A part of Birkenside, which in 1635 belonged to Robert of St John's Chapel, advocate, became in 1689, the prope William Shillinglaws, elder and younger, of the elder in lift and is now in tl>fi possession of Colonel William Shillinglaw, lineal descendant. It is the opinion of Colonel Shillinglaw his ancestor, whose entrance to the parish seems to have been netted with Mr Calderwood's return, and who was an elde keeper for sometime of the Session records, assumed the tiai Shillinglaw, in consequence of transactions in which he had engaged during the previous troubles; and that his real nam the ancient, and in this quarter, honourable, name of Kerr. Parochial RfgUUrs. — The date of the earliest entry in lli rochial registers is September 8, 1689. They appear to have regularly kept, but are very meagre. Antiquities. — Of the llii-ee ancient lowers which are mei ■ TIjLTc [m 3 tomb-slono in i\w cliurdiyiircl K> th« luumorv of WilliEiin W mory oF Maekbtuliill, who did at AVIiitstnid in \W^, vhich n-as niiaired ((randsim, the Right Hoi:a^tured or that may be pastured for the year, f3450 There arc no market gardens in the parish : TIic produce of the' v 18 9 Total yearly value of raw produce raUeckburnspath, where it joins East Lothian. On the south-east it is bounded by the liberties of Berwick. Topography. — The aspect of the county is considerably diver- sified. The Lammermoor district, if it cannot be called moun- tainous, is at least hilly, bleak, and moorish. Some of the hills in Lammermoor are of considerable altitude; they are generally co- vered with heath, and have round and flattened summits. The following table shows the heights of the principal hills above the level of the sea, and the parishes in which they are situated : — Names of the hills. Altitude. Parishes. Jjammerlaw, 1500 feet, Lauder. Sayerslav, 1500 do. Longformacus, Dirringtonlaw, 1145 do. T}o. Boonhill, 1090 do. Legerwood, Soutra, 1000 do. Channelkirk, Cockburnlawy 912 do. Dunse, Dunsclav, 690 do. Do. Berwickshire cannot boast of such romantic features, and such striking localities as characterize some of the northern and western counties, and which prove so attractive to travellers. But still it is not without its beauties, though these are of a more subdued and less marked kind. Though there is a general uniformity in the Merse, yet even its flattest parts are not without many gentle swells and Undulating elevations, which diversify the scenery, relieve the uniformity of a continued plain, and impart an agreeable variety to the prospect These elevations generally range from the north-- west to the south-east. In the district properly denominated the * This account of the measurement of the county is taken from Kerr*s Agricultu- ral survey, published in 1609. It differs in some degree from Mr Blackadder's mea- surement. According to the authority of Mr Blackaddcri as quoted in the Agricul- tural survey of Berwickshire, published in 1809, the whole may be distributed into the following divisions : Lowlands of the Merse, containing l(X)/2*26acrcs; lowlands of Lauderdale, 7280 ; lowlands of Cockburnspath, 2200 ; hill lands of I^uderdalo and Lammermoor, 175,734. — J. E. 362 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS Merse, extending from the Tweed to the Whitadder, and which is the most level part, a continued succession occurs, at short in- tervals, of those slight but well defined eminences. But what this county wants in the beauties of nature, has been abundantly sup- plied by the embellishments of art. Studded with handsome coun- try seats, snug farm-houses, comfortable cottages, and clean and thriving villages, adorned with tasteful clumps, and extensive co- lumns of wood of almost every variety of forest trees, and present- ing to view numerous and well laid out fields of com and pasture, completely enclosed with thriving hedges, and managed according to the most improved methods of modem husbandry, it appears in striking contrast to the barren and sterile aspect of the upland grounds, with which it is skirted on almost every side, and to what we may imagine its appearance to have been a century ago, when there were few vestiges of culture, no enclosures, and but little wood. The view towards the south, south-east and west, from the heights above Chimside, is one of great variety, and by no means des- titute of picturesque effect : it never fails forcibly to strike a stranger. It is doubtful whether in any district of Scotland such an extensive, rich, and well cultivated rural panorama can be found, or whose external features bear so near a resemblance to some of the fertile plains of " merry England." The Lammer- moor hills are seen in all their sterile and heath-clad blackness, their rounded forms well defined, and placed, as it were, as a pro- tection to the wide and cultivated plains which they enclose. Ex- tending for many miles, the Merse appears reclining in calm re- pose, its surface decked with various objects of rural interest, and interspersed with trees, hedgerows, woods, rich pastures, and spa- cious and fertile corn fields. To the south-west is seen Hume Castle, frowning from its elevated site on the plain beneath, and re- calling the remembrance of feudal times. At a farther distance, in nearly the same direction, appear the Eildon hills, towering to the clouds, while far to the south-east, the huge masses of the Cheviot mountains, rising in dim and dusky grandeur, arrest the eye of the spectator, and furnish a fine and imposing termination to the scene. The eastern part of the county differs considerably in the cha- racter of its topography from the parishes in its internal part, — being more diversified with hill and dale, more variegated with rising grounds, and not presenting such an uniform and level ap- pearance. In several places, this district is intersected with mgged ON THE COUNTY OF BERWICK. 363 gullies and deep ravines, apparently produced by some violent natural convulsion, — through which meander gentle rivulets, whose tiny waters bear no proportion to the magnitude of their banks. The sea coast is generally high, rocky, and precipitous, present- ing a bold front to the ocean, frequently rising perpendicular and abruptly from the sea, and indented and variegated with promon- tories and bays. The elevation of the coast is very considerable, especially in the neighbourhood of St Abb's Head, an object well known to mariners, and which forms the most prominent point on this linp of coast, — at which the range of the Lammermoor hills, which extend so far across the island, may be considered as com- mencing. Of the several bays on the coast, the most remark- able is that of Coldingham, which, being protected by the high lands of St Abb's Head from the north-west, affords excel- lent shelter and secure anchorage-ground to vessels when prevent- ed, by the prevalence of westerly winds, from proceeding up the Frith of Forth. Climate, — During the spring, cold easterly winds generally pre- vail for several weeks. These retard vegetation, and produce their usual pernicious effects on gardens, and corn and grass fields. Sum- mer weather seldom commences before the end of May, and in- deed a too forward spring is not generally desired by farmers. The prevailing wind in summer is the south-west Great and long-con- tinued falls of rain do not frequently occur. Excessive droughts are more common, and by experienced agriculturists a series of dry weather, though of considerable duration, is considered more suit- ed to the soil, and better calculated to secure a productive crop, than the other extreme. The winters may be pronounced, on an average, to be mild. Heavy falls of snow are of rare occurrence, and when they do happen, the snow seldom lies on the ground for any length of time, though on the Lammermoor hills it frequently retains its place weeks after it has disappeared in the lower parts of the county. In regard to climate, the Merse is rather favourably situated. Sheltered by the Lammermoor hills on the north, and by the Cheviot mountains on the south, the clouds which are generated by evaporation fpom the German Ocean are attracted by these hilly ranges, so that, while the operations of spring and harvest are proceeding in the lower part of the county with spirit and activity, under the cheering influence of genial and dry weather, in the higher they are not unfrequently interrupted and retarded, or, performed imperfectly, from the prevalence of 364 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS heavy rains, and from the moist and cold nature of the climate. The well known fact, that, in the best districts of this county, a considerable breadth of land is annually sown with wheat after turnips, sometimes so late as the month of April, and that fair crops are the result, is a criterion, and by no means an unfavour- able one, of the character of the climate. Soil — A great variety of soils exists in the county ; some districts being remarkable for a stiff and stubborn clay, others for a mix* ture of clay and loam ; a rich loamy soil characterizing one part of the county, while another is distinguished for a mixture of sand, gravel, and loam, in various proportions ; and on the same soil all these diversities are sometimes amalgamated. When it is consi- dered that, not unfrequently on the same farm, all these varieties occur, and sometimes even on the same field ; and that all these kinds of soil are modified by the character of the subsoil, which also exists in as great diversity, — to classify the varieties of the soil, or to ascertain with any degree of accuracy the extent to which these endless pecuHarities prevail, would be almost if not alto- gether impossible. It may, in general terms, be observed, that clay forms the discriminating character of the lands in the '^ How of the Merse ;" loam that part of the soil which skirts the chief rivers ; while turnip soil is found in those parts of the Merse where there is not too great a preponderance of clay, and in the arable portion of the Lammermoor district. The lands on Tweedside, and along the banks of the Whitadder and Blackadder, generally consist of a fine deep loam, well fitted for raising luxuriant crops of almost every description, resting commonly on a gravelly subsoil, though sometimes on a stiff tenacious clay. These tracts of land are the most valuable in the county, and have been long under a course of skilful management. In the intermediate tract betwixt these rivers the land is less valuable, and degenerates into a stiflF and hard clay, difficult to work, and from resting on a subsoil of stiff till, liable to be saturated with moisture, and long retaining it when thus saturated. The remainder of the arable part consists of a sharp sandy and gravelly soil, well adapted for raising turnips, combined in different proportions with loam and clay, easily wrought, and varying in quality and value according to the nature of the sub- soil on which it is incumbent This species of land is highly valued, and those farms which contain a considerable proportion of turnip soil arc generally preferred by the tenantry. In the Agricultural Report of this county, published by the late John Home, Esq. W. S. ON THE COUNTY OF BERWICK. 365 upwards of thirty years ago, the proportion of the various kinds of soil are thus given : Deep loam on the principal rivers, 25410 acres ; clay lands in the How of the Merse, 40380 ; turnip soil, 119780 ; meadow, moss, and moor, in Lauderdale and Lammermoor, 99870. Hydrography^ — The principal rivers connected with this coun- ty are the Tweed, Whitadder, Blackadder, and Leader. The smaller streams are the Eye, Dye, Ale and Leet, besides a great number of burns that cannot be particularized. The salmon-fish* eries on that part of the Tweed which skirts this county are of considerable value, and furnish employment during the season to a number of individuals. Of late years, however, it is matter of re- gret, that their value has been much diminished in consequence of a deficiency of fish. The rentals have accordingly sunk, some of them to a third of what they were a few years ago. Many causes have been assigned for this remarkable failure. None of them, however, appear satisfactorily to account for it It has been con- jectured that, in consequence of the pier of Berwick, which was erected some years ago, obtruding too far into the mouth of the river, its inlet has been narrowed, and the fish thereby prevented from entering it. But by practical fishermen, and other intelligent persons well acquainted with the natural history of the salmon, this cause has been rejected as insufficient to account for the failure, — it being well known that salmon are not easily deterred from resort- ing to their usual haunts, and are abundant in rivers with a much narrower entrance than that of the Tweed. Others have ascribed the deficiency to the general use of lime for agricultural purposes, — which being washed from the land by heavy rains, and in this way conveyed into the Tweed, produces a deleterious effect on the fish. But the practice of liming land in this district has not been re- cently introduced, and existed for many years, when there was no complaint of this failure. By others, it is thought that the river is overfished, the number of boats on the water having been much increased of late years. The most general opinion, and perhaps the most satisfactory one is, that the deficiency is to be accounted for from the illegal destruction of fish during close time in the up- per part of the river and its tributaries, — which, in defiance of law, and in direct violation of the rights of property, has been persisted in to an alarming extent, especially in the higher district of Tweed- side. It is hoped that the Act lately obtained — a rigorous execu- tion of the law on offenders — a stricter vigilance by those interest- 306 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS m ed in the fisheries — ^and more vigorous measures on the part of pro- prietors — will contribute to check this evil, and to restore the river to its former state of productiveness. The Tweed, so celebrated in song, and so renowned in history, and associated in the breast of every Scotsman with such interesting recollections, is, in the parts of it connected with this county, a magnificent and imposing stream, — maintaining through all its course its characteristic transparency — winding and tortuous in its career, and presenting on its banks a variety of interesting scenery. The road from Berwick to Kelso by Ladykirk and Coldstream, a great part of which passes close by the Tweed, is one of the most delightful in point of scenery in the south-east of Scotland. There is excellent salmon-fishing with the rod in this section of the Tweed, and in the autumn it is resorted to by amateurs of this interesting sport A clause in the late act of Parliament renders it lawful to fish with the rod for a month after the usual fishing with nets has closed. The other rivers in the county also abound with trout, and in the spring and summer seasons afford good sport to the angler. The Whitadder takes its rise in the hilly part of East Lothian, and is remarkable for the rapidity of its current, the steepness of its banks, and its numerous and circuitous windings. After receiving several considerable contributions from various nameless rivulets, and being joined by the Blackadder at AUanton, it unites with the Tweed about three miles above Berwick. The Blackadder rises in the parish of Westruther, passes Greenlaw, the county town, and after permeating the Merse, and imparting its charms to several gentlemen's seats which skirt it, joins the Whitadder. It is dis- tinguished for the quality of its trout, which somewhat resemble those of Loch Leven, and are esteemed for their flavour. The Leader winds through Lauderdale, to which it gives its name, and from the upper part of which it issues, and runs into the Tweed, near old Melrose, at the point where it becomes the boundary of Ber- wickshire. The Leet, originating in the How of the Merse, unites with the same river at Coldstream, and the Eye, which rises in East Lothian, and flows in an easterly direction, falls into the sea at Eyemouth. Coldingham Loch is the only natural piece of water of any ex- tent in Berwickshire. It covers about thirty acres, — is remarkable for its high situation and its proximity to the sea — abounds with ON THE COUNTY OF BERWICK. 367 perch — and imparts a lively character to the bleak and sterile tract by which it is encompassed. Minerals. — There are neither coal nor lime in this county, — at least none that would bear the expense of working. Agriculture, — Table shewing the number of Acres cultivated^ annual Value of Raw Produce^ Sfc. Acres Acres nevci| Acres un- An. value of Valued rent in cuUivat. cultivated der wood. raw produce. Scots money. Ab. St Bathans, 2300 2600 100 L. 2,555 L. 1113 10 10 Ay ton, 6000 250 800 33.900 6620 1 04 Uunklc, 7*280 1600 420 16,165 6232 11 04 Channelkirk, 5000 12,000 200 not stated 4729 13 9 Chirnside, 4C29 371 14,580 4307 5 10 Coldingh91 622 674 766 787 748 Channel kirk» 531 600 640 707 730 841 Chirnside, 510 961 1147 1239 1189 1248 Cockburnspath, 919 883 930 904 966 1143 Coldingham, , 2313 2391 2391 2424 2676 2668 Coldstream,. 1493 2621 2269 2384 2801 2897 Cranshaws, 214 164 166 186 156 136 Dunse, 2d9d 3324 3167 3082 3773 3469 Barlston, 1197 1361 1478 1528 1705 1710 Bccles, 1489 1780 1682 1820 1900 1885 Edrom, 898 1336 1355 1360 1516 1435 Eyeinouth, 792 1000 899 962 1166 1181 Fogo, 666 450 607 450 469 433 Foulden, 465 344 393 368 396 424 Gordon, 737 912 802 8dl 737 882 Greenlaw, 895 1210 1270 1260 1349 1442 Hutton, 761 920 955 1030 1118 1099 Ladykirk, 386 590 516 535 527 485 Langton, 290 435 428 418 477 443 Lauder, 1795 2000 1760 1742 1845 2063 Legerwood, 398 422 495 .560 476 565 Longfbrmacus, 399 462 406 444 402 425 Merton, 502 557 535 614 610 664 Mordington, 181 336 330 275 302 301 Nenthom, 497 400 395 398 393 380 Polwarth, 251 288 ■ 291 307 298 288 Swinton, 494 898 876 866 919 971 Westruther, 591 730 779 822 870 830 Whitsome, 399 590 6fM) 536 661 664 Roads. — From being in former times proverbially bad, the roads are now excellent, and much attention is paid to keeping them in pro- per repair. When toll-bars were first established, great opposition was made to this measure; and acts of violence and outrage were re- sorted to. The people are now convinced of their error, and justly ap- preciate the advantages that are derived from having easy means of communication betwixt the different districts of the county. The pro- prietors connected with the difTerept trusts take great pahis in super- intending and managing the road affairs. The parish roads are main- tained by the statute labour conversion money ; and overseers, who are generally respectable farmers, are appointed in every parish for in- specting the roads, managing the funds, and seeing them properly ap- plied. In the internal part of the county, there are several cross roads 372 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS which are little used, and which, without any loss either to iudi^ duals or the public, might with propriety be shut up. In some plao of the district, the want of bridges to afford a safe passage over tl rapid streams which intersect Berwickshire is severely felt, ai much complained of. In that part which is situated on tl lower extremity of the Whitadder, this is particularly the cas The numerous fatal accidents that have occurred to persons a tempting to cross the rivers while in flood, have excited an a most universal anxiety that something should be done to prevei the occurrence of such heart-rending visitations. Several of tl proprietors have shown a deep interest in providing a remedy, 1 the erection of bridges ; and it is hoped that the time is not dista when measures will be taken to obviate this defect Ecclesiastical State, — Though in the course of last century a veral unions of parishes took place, yet few are of an inconveniei size. In several parishes the churches being situated at their e: tremities, are rather inconveniently placed for the parishioners. Tl largest parishes in point of territorial extent are those of Laud« and Coldingham, both of which comprise vast tracts of unimpro ed and unimprovable moor. In the latter parish, there is a Chi pel of Ease at Renton, where a preacher regularly officiates, is doubtful whether sufficient permanent funds could be obtained i justify the presbytery in ordaining a clergyman in this chapel. Tb most populous parishes are Dunse and Coldstream. The smallei parish in point of extent is Eyemouth, and the least populous Al bey St Bathans. There are about fourteen Dissenting meeting houses of various denominations.* * Part of the parish of Oldhamstocks is situated in Berwickshire, and detached at considerable distance from the rest of the parish, which is in East Lothian. In a other matters, except quoad sacra, it forms a part of the former county. ON THE COUNTY OF BERWICK. Table MtutKtmf the Ecclesiaetical and Educational Pr ovh ona ('/I each Parish. Uiwot. Amount of (Jlialdecn. WuHey, in- i lii ii X il il pa ocliial Meol and .^lud. com. il «h »lmas- Unrloy. i-lemcnta. ^ V.1U.. Jl *l£ M icr salary Fees. Clist. Bull^ L. •. d. L. ,1 d.| lT .. d. 1,. fc a Abbey, i.)8 c a u 14 O! 80 18 Jl) Ay ton. IC HI \\\ 38 0,36(1 leq 145 7 14 84 (I Bunkie, 18 8 8 44 JO 0230 02 50 1 14 30 ChEnni-lkirk 13 5 32 U 18 250 12a 34 10 40 Chimaide, 17 BUB ft 24 0400 200 74 3 34 10 Cranihaws, 1A8 6 8 16 22 10 0; 30 24 1 14 10 E.rl,tor, IR 8 JO 0404 187 m 3 IS not stated Eccles, 18 i\ not stated 005 no Slat, 5 nut Slated Gordon, fi S »0 \i 30 Oi ■ 173 12 34 20 t\ GnKTllflW, 15 14 ai 7 6 10 30 0370 304 96 2 34 15 n Hullon, 18 lU 13 30 0'430 213 100 4 34 40 a 1) Udytirt, 6 88 1! U 33 0;I7<1 83 318 45 1 i& 13 3 JO Lauder, \A 14 77 11 18 06.S0 lis J 35 nai>Uied 16 8 6 8 32 0134 65 16 ! 34 10 KT"' 18 10 14 14 0240 30 10 Sviiiton, IS 21 63 0,440 19; 35 3 34 25 (1 Westtolher, IliO 16 8 20 30 0420 158 %i 23 10 < Wiiiuome, 16 3boU) wheat 8 7 4 ;30 60 0I2OO m 40 2 34 26 Coldsireom.t 16 8 6 8 llll 50 0680 242 21.. 7 14 77 1 Ncnthorn. 150 71 22 05 41 10 10 (1 Fugo, 15 iKbolUuu UO niesJ, 0< 8 e 8 11 30 0145 68 30 1 26 13 34 IS PoWortb, 5 11 UU not stated ISO 61 3 I >8 19 6 tori.,. 1 Langloii, 10 j b. obU and bailey. 123 10 do. 310 61 32 1 25 4 4 32 Dunu, 10 10 37 OIOOO 390 57 44b 8 J4 4 4 70 FuuldcTt. 77bulIiDBU 3B barley. 16 50 9 3 8 34 OIGti lOIJ 34 II) Edron,, 8 G 8 10 notstated,350 235 .. » H 10 CoUingb.™, 18 10 D .10 « '« *;;!! entirely to have lost sigbt of, or to have forgotten, the saying^*^ doings of the " temporia acti." Table shewing the number c Commitments, &c for Crime in the County of Ber¥*ls during the year 1834. Crimra. Iried from 111 11 ^1 = 1 Persons tried. Sentences of vict^"' Theft, Theft by A«au1t. Sn»>kirig win- Rioting' Vapaney, Contrataning Art 9 Geo. IV. sect. 69. game, Coulempt of Court. a 6 15 2 2 2 J M 3 3 I \4 1 1 i 2 2 1 1 a 3 2 14 I 2 2 Befiire what court. I sent, death, 2tranaporU- tion for life. or S monthi or lean. Transports. tion 14 years. for 3 month. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. rustieiary. Dy jury, without uiy , aod by j uttioes or olhir court. Junioiary. Sbyjury, 3wilh. jutjury,5byju3- uce* or other court. iVithoutjury. Do. Do. Without jury. Do. Do. INDEX. Abbey St Bathans, parish of, 105 Agriculture and rural economy, 7, 22, 28, 35, 44, 59, 71, 78, 90, 95, 101, 110, 120, 126, 140, 157, 173, 183, 194, 209, 218, 226, 235, 238, 256, 262, 272, 286, 307, 327, 342, 355 Agricultural and rural economy, general, of the county, 367 Ale water, the, 131 Allanbank, paper-mills of, 271 Andent thorn at Earlston, 21 — cross at Crosshall, 56 >? cA - Antiquities, 5, 2 k 42, 56; 1 1 9, 1 34, 1 7 1 , 207, 225, 238,^, 340, 352 Ayton, parish of, 130 — house destroyed by fire, 136 — ruins of the caatle of, l^^^village of, 142 Baillie, George, of Jerviswood, 1 9 BaiUie, Lady Grizzel, 20, 232 Baillie, Mrs, of Jerviswood, 20 — be- quest by, 24 Bamersyde hill, 26 Bassandean house, 74 Bassantin, James, mathematiftil profes- sor at Paris, 69 Battle of Swinton, 189 — between the Earl of Dunbar and the Hepbums, 94 Battle Knowe, Roman camp at, 171 Bell, John, bequest by, for the poor of Coldstream, 212 Berwickshire, agriculture of, 367 — cha- racter of the population, 376 — climate and meteorology, 363 — general obser- vations on, 360 — hills of, 361 — popu- lation of, 372 — rivers of, 365 Bighouse, 270 Bingham, important meeting at, 54 — old churchyard of, 50 — village of, 54 Blackadder house, 271 — river, 41, 66, 224,267 Blackcastlc Rings, old camp of, 43 Boon Dreigh water, 349 Boonhill, the, 348 Boston, Rev. Thomas, birthplace of, 25 minister at Simprin, 192 — at Whit- some, 170 BoUny, 53, 94, 117, 133, 182, 206,210, 230, 236, 280, 300, 322, 340 Brickfield, the, of Paxton, 160 Bridges, suspension, at Merton, 27 — at Paxton, 1 38 — at Hutton, 161 —over the BERWICK. Wliitaddei, 113— over the Eden, ^1 — over the Blackadder, 225 — the Peath*s, 291, 312 Broadmeadows house, 154 Broomficld mortification for education of the poor, 46 Broomhouse, 270 — paper-mills of, 271 Browne, Dr John, and the Brunonian system, 118 Brj^oae, Patrick, 208 Buchan, Earl of, bridge erected by, 27 Bunkle and Preston, united parishes of, 114 Bunkle, ruins of the castle of, 118 Bum, the Rev. John, 241 Bummouth, village of, 131 Calderwood, Rev. William, 351 Camp muir, 238 ' Camps, see Roman. Carolside house, 21 Caves, remarkable, near St Abb's Head, 279 Cbannelkirk, parish of, 88 Character and habits of the people, 7, 35, 44, 59, 75, 89, 110, 154, 173, 183, 193, 209. 217, 233, 262, 306, 342, 354, 376 — ^general remarks on, 376 Chimside, parish of, 124 Christie, Alexander, bequest by, for the poor of Dunse, 259 Churches and chapels connected with the Establishment, 12, 23, 3l,-37,46,61, 84, 91, 97, 103, 113, 122, 128, 144, 162, 177, 185, 195, 211, 221, 229, 235, 240, 257, 264, 271, 274 287, 313, 332, 345, a57— general of the county, 373 ^ Churches and chapels, Dissenting, see Dissenters. Cistertian nunneries, ruins of, at Ecelos, 57 — at St Bathans, 107 Climate, see Meteorology. Coal, attempts to work, in Mordingtun, 339 Cockbumlaw, 246 Cockburn of Langton, family of, 241 Cookbumspath, parish of, 290 — geolo- gy «)(' the coa«*t, 293— tower, 303— village of, 310 Coins, ancient, found at Lauder, 6 — at St Helens, ;)05 C C BEBWICK8HIBB. ColdbnndipaCb, cude of, 303 Coldingham locb, 280~periBh of, 279 ColdinghKin Priory, bistory of, 282— dcRtrojed by Cromwell. 283 — ruina df. 284— village of, 287, 289 Coldstresm, wiih of, 199 — town of, 211 Coldstream Guardi, fint enrolment of, by Monk, 207 Copper, Btlempts to work, at Dunae, 249— «C Ellim, 94— at St bachsns. 312 — harbour, Covenantem, remains of tbeir entrench- ed camp on DuiiseUw, 254 Cowdenknowes, 21 Cransbawa, pariah of, 99 — eastle, 101 Criminid atatiBtics of the county, 378 Cromwell, deatiuction of Coldingham ^aui, ancient, at Crogahall, 56 daniab camp at Habchrster, SSS, 134 Vanish remains at Raecleugh, 238 P'Arcy, Sir Anthony, alain by Wedder- ' burne, 255, 269 Deans, the, of Cockburnsjifitb, 201 Dirrington hills, the, 94 Diaeaaf a, prevalent, 2, 51 DisHpntEtB and Diasenling chapels, 12, 24. 85,91, 97, 122, 129, 145, 169, 177, 1S5, 196, 211, 221, 230, 244, 257, 276. 288, 314, 3S2. 346, 358, — general of the county, 373 Douglas, Rev. Daniel, traditions rogard- ing, 170 Draining, system of, 9, 23,29,81, 11], 127, 174. 220 Drumaw, Briliah camp on, 134 Drybiirgh Abbey, ruins of, 27 Dugdenmbss, 41, 42 Dungla-Ls, Dean of, 295 Duns Scotus, birth-place of, 250 Dunsc castle, 250, 255— parish, 24C -spa, 248. 266— town of, 246. 250 Dye water, the, 100 Earlston, parish of, 18 — church, 23 — village, 24 E«6i Nisbet, meeting of ifie Covenant- eis at, 269 — ruina of the olil church of. 276 Ecclea. parish of, 50 — town and abbey of. deairoyed. 57 Ecclesiastical st3tiati«<. See Churchea Eden river, 19,33 EdinshaU. ruins of, 252 Edrington casllc, ruins of, 34 Edrom house, 271— pariah of, 266 Education, stutistics of, IS, 24, 31, 37, 46,61,81,91,97,103,114,121,120, | 146, 163^ 178, 166, 190, SI2. S9 230, 235. 244, 257, 265, 376, 38 315, 333, 346, 358 Edward 1. encamps at Hutton, lAl Ggrop wood, 3 Erskine, Rer. Henry, birth- pinre of, 1! Eye river, the, 131, 279, 293, 319 Eyemouth, bay of, 319— parish of, 8. —town of, 329 Fairs and marfceia, 16, 25, 48, 186, IS 260, 317, 335 Faatcaille, ruins of, 285 Faungrais water, 41 Fisheries, herring, 287, 328 Fisheries, salmon, 30, 53, 159. 184, 2] — aea, 309, 328, 365 Fishwick, ruins of the cbutcfa of, 15 153 Flemington, 137 Fiigo, parish of, 223 Foreman. Andrew, Bishop of Mony, H Fort, the point of, 318 — Temuna on, 9S Foulden, parish of. 261 Franklin, Benjamin, hia ▼jait to Loi Karnes, 55 Freestone, see Quarries Gavington, village of, 238, 240 Geology and mineralogy, 2, 41, 53, 89 94, 100, 116, 132, 166, 181. 188 201, 216, 290. 2«7. 280, 319, 338 Glencairn. Earls of, 217 Gordon, bmily of, 33 Gordon, parisb of, 33 — village of, 36 Gradeti bum, the, 200 Gray, the Rev. James, 251 Greeiiknowe tower. 34 Greenlaw, parish of, 40— town of, 44, 46 Gunsgrcen distillery, 141 — house, 137 Guthrie, James, minister at Lauder, 4^ execution of, 4 Gypsum, see Quarries. Hubrhester, Danieb camp on, 134, 338 Hall, Sir James, 305 Hirrring, see Fisheries Ilirsel house, 208 Hogarth, Mrs, of Hilton, bequest by, I7S Home, the author of Douglas, 71 Home, George, of Wedderbum, 152 Home, of Bassandean, family of, 69 Hounslow, village of, 83 Hume, the bialorian, birth-place of, 124 Hume, David, of Godscroft. 108 Hume, Sir Patrick, and Lady Grttrpl BaUlic. 232 Hutton. Dr James, birth-place of, 117 Hutton ball, 151— parish of, 150— vil- lage of, 161 Inns, and their effects on the moiala of the pco|>le, 16, 15, 37, 48, Bi, 86, 92, INDEX. 3S1 165, 180, 186, 197, 214,278,289, 817, 335, 847 Ively tower, ruins of, 72 Jails and prisons, 16, 48, 143, 214 Kaimes, the, 41 Karnes, Lord, birth-place and residence of, 55 Relloe house, 270 Kimmerghame bouse, 270 Ladykirk bouse, l83--pari8h of, 181 — luins of monastery of, 182 Lamberton, ruins of the cburcb of, 340 Laromerlaw, 1 Lammennuir bills, the, 1, 361 Langton Edge, bill of, 236 Langton, parish and village of, 236 Lauder, parish of, 1 — church of, 12 — town of, 1 1 Leader, the river, 1 , 3 — scenery of, 1 9, 89 Leet water, the, 188 Legerwood, parish of, 347 Leiiiball, old church of, 199 — village of, destroyed, 199 Leitholm, the old church of, 50 — ruins of the Peel of, 58— village of, 60 Lennel house, the residence of Patrick Brydone, 208 Le«8uddeu, viUuge of, 31 Libraries and literature, 25, 46, 86, 92, 103, 129, 146, 163, 212, 258, 277, 289, 315, 334, 359 Linthill bouf^e, 326 Live-stock, breeds of, 8, 22, 29, 37, 60, 78, 90, 102, 111, 121, 127, 210,220, 228, 256, 308, 355 Longformaeus and Ellon, united pa- lishes of, 93 Longformaeus, village of, 95 M'Crie, Dr, birth-place of, 251 Maiden stanc, the, 131 Maitland, Sir John, 4 Manderston house, 255 Manufactures, 22, 102, 140 Marchmont house, 232 Marlborough, Duke of, created baron of Eyemouth, 325 Meiklecase Hill, 94 Mellerstain house, 21 Merton, parish of, 26 Meteorology and climate, 2, 18, 40, 51, 64, 88, 99, 115, 181, 187, 199, 216, 223, 261, 292, 338, 348 Meteorology and climate, general, of the county, 363 Millbank, paper-mills of, 141 Blilne-Graden house, 202 Monk, General, 207 Mordington, parish of, 337 Nenthorn, parish of, 215 — village of, 216,217 Netherbvres house, 326 Newton Don house, 217 Newton, village of, 217 Nisbet, meeting of Covenanters at, 269 — hoase, 270 — ruins of old church of 276 Northiield, village and harbour of, 287 Nunnery, Cistertian, at Ecdes, 57 — St Bathans, 107 Organic remains found at Whitsome, 167— at Coldstream, 203 Otterboume, supposed site of the bat- tle of, 94 Pftper mills at Allanbank,271 — Broom- bouse, 271— Millbank, 141 Parkend, village of, 208 Parochial schools, see Education Pauperism, see Poor P&xton supension bridge, 138 — liouse, 153 Pease or Peath*s Dean and Bridge, 291, 312 Peel wall's bouse, 131 Pictish camps in parish of Bunkle, 119 — at Preston, 119 Plantations and planting, 3, 22, 80, 90, 95, 126, 157, 188, 207, 209, 218, 227,286 Plendcrguest house, 136 Plenderguest, William, plunders Cold* ingham priory, 136 Polwarth, parish o!^ 231 Pont*s map of LauArdale in the 17th century, 4 ^ Poor, management of the, 15, 25, 32, 37, 46, 62, 86, 92, 97, 104, 114, 121, 147, 179. 186, 197, 213, 222, 235, 246, 258, 265, 277, 289, 316, 335, 346, 359, 374 Population, character of, see Charac- ter. Population returns, 6, 21, 27, 34, 44, 59, 75, 89, 95, 101, 110, 119, 125, 139, 154, 172, 183, 192, 208, 217, 226, 238, 238, 255, 262, 271, 286, 306. 327, 341, 353 Population, general, of the county, 373 Preston, Pictish camp at, 1 19 Pringle, family of, 168 Pringle of Greenknowe, the Covenan- ter, 34 Prisons, see Jails. Quarries, conglomerate, 321 — freestone, 52, 66, 128, 132, 151, 159, 176, 188, 201, 210, 274, 320— gypsum, 151, 202— limestone, 339— marl, 267— wbinstone, 291 Raecleugh, Danish camp at. 238 Redpath, Rev. Philip, 152 Rent of land, 8, 22, 30, 35, 45, 60, 78, 90, 96, 111, 126, 140, 157, 183, 194, 382 ItRRWICKfilllRK. U09, -Jia, asj, 23», a*, dw. -jta ■J86, 307, 938, 343, 3&3 Roman cmmpc at Blackchnter aud Tol- Tiihill, 5, 1»— BatUeknowei, 171— Chcters, 22A_St Abb., 284 Roman Toadi, the great, \Si — in Fo^ — 22G — near louder, 5 Kobcrtion.^AbrahBTn, Profeuor of Aa- tronomy at Oxford, 251 — bequeic bj, Kw, village of, 338 St Abba, rriin* of the nunner? of, '281 St Abb'a Head, 280 St Bathan'i, ])ahsfa of, 103— churcb of, 108— dntroyed by the Danes, lUft— mini of the priory of, 100— well. lt)9 St Helen'!, mini of the old diurch of, aCM Salmon fiiherics, 31), 53, 159, 184, 310, 965 Saitdalonc, tee Quarrivs . Havingii- banlu, 25, m, -259, 277 Saxon mini near Dunne, 252 Scarlaw, niinn of (he rantle of, lUI School^ parochial, &r. bl-c KdurutioD Seifion record* of Langlun, extractii from, 1U3 Sbiella bum, the 201 KcoT point, the. '292 ffimpRn, nee Swinton Societies, friendly, 16, 25, 46, Kl, !H, 114. 129, 147, IG4, IM, 212, 24,-), 260, t>K9, 315, ■'m Society, the I^audiTdnle ■pricultunil, 10 t^outra bill, BH K|xjtciHH'Oodr, rnmily <>f, (J7 — house, 74 8potlii>n-oode, Arclihisbop. 68 Spoltjan'oodo, .luliii, siipurintendent of tbe Mcrxe, tW Spring*, 2, 40 — uiinrml, 52, G5, I INI. 266 iSprot, tbe notary, and hii< i:oniiti'Iion witli tbe C;un-rie (■oni'pinirj, 325 fitonc cofGiii>, fuunil at llirsd, 207— lit Lcelhcad, 171— bI Middlelon, 238 | SimfoTiUniN old |»ri*h uf. 108 Swintoii Biul ^imprin, united jian of, 187 - Temple-hall and well, nt Leeli^ide, TliirUuiie oslk'. 5 Thomai thi! Hhymer, 1H,19 — rcniaii itle, 21 Thoni t EarhU t P»xt. 21 ifwtory at pHXton, 16)1 Tod of KirklandH — bequest by, fur tribution of cobI!>, 24 Tolliihill. rump on. 5 Tower Dean, tbe, 291, 295 Tumuli, aneienl, iieiu l.auder, 5 Tneed, the river, 52. 200. 366 Tniidaw calms, occa^on of their e tion, 73 I'liErllington, old parisli of, 181 Veiti-h, John, 70 Vipont, fiiinily of, 2.17 Wa^-cf, rate* of. 8. 22. 30. iVi, 4."t, SH>, 96. Il>2. 1 1 1, 126. 1411. i.>7. 18.^, ItM, 210, 219, ■_'27. 2;jn, : 264, 27.% 286, 307, :t.'M, .-W;} WalLire, iiilofWil Biutiie of, 27 Wardlaw bill, 279 Wi-dderliiim ca«lU', 2:u Wodderlio house, 74 — rtiiiiii bi' 1(i6 Wlutaomr, village of, 169, i Hirojred hy Kichaid 111. IG9 Wiirh's knowe, ibc, 338 WooiU, r^ee Plantations Kouloto', ^i, G7,' 133, 206, 2 .*il, 3*0 »«»»»•" l»ai"SS7"232T I I 857 y.84 033078 Tfte .Bs»..».1;.e.1iA«tla8X... aoaount of Soot- land