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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I I % \ THE NEW STATISTI C AL ACCOUNT OP SCOTLAND. VOL. V. THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT or SCOTLAND. BY THE MINISTERS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE .SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMMITTEE OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS OF THE CLEROT. VOL. V. AYB-BUTE. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, EDINBURGH AND LONDON. MDCCCXLV. « » J to 00 AYR. CONTENTS. ARDROSSAN, . PAGE 191 AUCHINLECK, 322 AYR, • I BALLANTRAE, 415 BARR, 407 BBITH, . 570 COLUONELL, . 528 COYLTON, 649 CRAIGIE, 764 CUMNOCK, NEW, ^ 509 CUMNOCK, OLD, 475 DA1LLY, . -v 381 DALMELLINGTON, 308 DALRY, 210 DALRYMPLE, 273 DREGHORN, 523 DUNDONALD, 666 DUNLOP, 288 FENWICK, 773 GALSTON, 178 GIRVAN, 394 KRYINE, 619 KILBIRNIB, 689 KILBRIDE, WEST, . 243 KIIMABNOCK, 535 KILMAURS, 769 KILWINNING, 811 KIRKMICBABL, 492 KIRKOSWALD, » 781 LARGS, ^ 786 LOUDON, 834 v^ ^ ■'? ' ^^Q • • • VIU CONTENTS. MAUCHLINB, MATBOLE, HONKTON AND PRE8TWICK, MUIRKIRK, NEW CUMNOCK, NCWTON'ON-AYR, OCHILTREE, OLD CUMNOCK, RICCARTON, ST QUI VOX, SORN, STAIR, STBTENSTON, STBWARTON, STRAITON, SYMINGTON, TORBOLTON, WEST KILBRIDE, PAGE 158 348 169 147 509 86 105 475 605 • 118 126 637 426 727 333 565 741 243 PARISH OF AYR. PRSSBYTBRY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GL4SGOW AND AYR. THE REV. ROBERT AULD, D. D. 1 vrfVTTQxi7PG THE REV. ALEXANDER CUTHILL, j ^ajnimi!.k&. I. — Topography and Natural History. Etymology, — Ayr, in all probability, derived its name from the river at whose mouth it stands, which appears to have given the same designation also to the parish, the bay, and the county. But whence was the name itself derived ? There are rivers, it is said, bearing the same appellative, and having likely the same common etymology, in England, France, Switzerland, and in almost every country in Europe. In the formation of language, proper names, in particular, often take their rise from some quality in the ob- jects to which they have become affixed. This has been obvious* ly the case in regard to the rivers Ayr and Doon. In Celtic, to which the word must undoubtedly be traced, Ar literally signifies clear, and Dhu or Dhim dark, and those qualities are sufficiently characteristic of the streams which they designate. The latter, in consequence of running through a soft deep bog near its head, re- ceives a black mossy tinge, which it retains during the vrhole of its subsequent course, — whereas the former, from flowing above a gravelly bed, continues clear and limpid throughout The mode of spelling the word, has undergone several changes in the pro- gress of time. In the royal charter of the burgh, and in all an- cient records, it is written. Are ; from this it came to be changed into Air, and since the end of the last century, Ayr has very ge- nerally been adopted, and is likely now to be permanent. Topography. — The town is situated in nearly the middle of a line of sea coast, about seven miles in length, forming in a gentle curve the inner basin of the beautiful bay of Ayr, and the western bound- ary of a fertile and finely cultivated valley, which is almost entire- ly of a level surface, extending inland about four or five miles from the beach. Beyond this, the ground begins to rise by a gentle slope to the height of two or three hundred feet, inclosing the vale by a finely marked amphitheatre of hills, and terminating on the AYR. A 2 AYRSHIRE. south-west, in the somewhat bolder and higher range of Brown Car-' rick, which projects into the sea in two or three precipitous rocky capes called the Heads of Ayr. In hardly any part of this ascend- ing boundary, is the swell so abrupt as to render the soil inca- pable of cultivation, and every part of it is under tillage, with the exception of what is occupied by plantations^ and some small patches on the brow of Carrick hiH, which are better suited for pasture. The valley which is thus surrounded consists of the pa- rishes of Ayr, Monkton, and St Quivox, together with a small part of the parish of Maybole, and forms a district of country, which, for richness of soil and cultivationt and finely wooded and diversified scenery, is hardly equalled by any other in the county. The river Ayr runs- through nearly the middle of this beautiful strath, and its banks for several miles are very picturesque, and finely variegated and adorned by the plantations and pleasure* grounds of Craigie and Auchencruive. Scarcely any part of it is barren, except a small extent of sand hillocks, in the neigh* bourhood of Prestwick, and it too is fast disappearing in the pro- gress of improvement. Not many years ago, the Glasgow road, for upwards of three miles in the vicinity of Ayr, ran on both sides, through accumulated wreaths of barren sand, which gave the tra- veller a very un&vourable impression of the approach to the county town. Now, however, nearly all this has vanished from the sight, and the eye is gratified with small well-cultivated inclosures, neat cottages and gardens, and handsome villas with ornamented ave- nues and shrubberies. Boundaries. — Of this valley which has now been described, the parish of Ayr forms a conspicuous portion, to the extent of more than one-third jpart of its surface. It is bounded on the north by the Water of Ayr, which divides it from St Quivox; on the east by Coylton ; on the south by Dalrymple ; on the south-west by the river Doon, and on the west by the sea. It extends betwixt 5 and 6 miles on its south-eastern boundary, about 3^ miles along the river Ayr to the north, four miles along the Doon to the south, having two miles of sea coast on the west, and about 4^ miles of extent from the town to its most distant limit It consists of the united parishes of Ayr and Alloway, which are' nearly equal in point of extent of surface, a small rivulet called Glangaw bum forming the boundary betwixt them. They were united about the end of the seventeenth century, and both are put on the same AYR. ^ 3 footiDg as to clerical superintendence. The two contain about 5000 acres. Sail and Surf act. — To a short distance along the margin of the sea, the soil is light and sandy, though almost the whole of it is under cultivation. It bears tolerably fair crops, unless in very dry seasons, and from the care that is taken in enriching it every year with manure and sea weed, it is improving progressively into an earthy vegetable consistence. Beyond this, the land for nearly two miles of breadth inland is rich and fertile, but, chiefly by means of vegetable mixtures, on a sandy surface ; it is kindly in its nature and easily worked, and capable of beariilg luxuriant crops of all sorts of grain and culinary herbs. A considerable part of it is under thriving plantations, which, by the shelter they afford, add much to its fertility and productiveness. About two miles and a-half inland from the coast, the soil becomes less free and gener- ous, in proportion as the ground begins to ascend, until it dege- nerates into a cold stiff clay, or ^i22, in the upper part of the parish, . yielding but indifferent crops, and being equally un&vourable for pasture. The whole parish, however, is in a state of tillage, with the exception of the Fort-Green belonging to the Marquis of Ailsa, a small inclosure behind Wellington Square, called the Low Green, and the race course, all of which are generally kept in pasture, though also capable of cultivation. The race-course consists of 80 or 90 acres, inclosed with a stone wall, and was fonaerly a common, free to every burgess for feeding cows. It is now held as the property of the burgh, and let by public roup annually to the highest bidder ; but when or how the burgesses came to lose their right oteomnumoffe cannot well be ascertained. It must have been within the last forty years, as it is stated to have been a common at the date of the last Statistical Account of Ayr; and its having ceased to be so, must doubtless have been with the consent, ex- pressed or implied, of those having right to it. External Appearance. — In the upper part of the parish, the land is cold and bleak, and very tame in point of scenery. A few belts of plantation would greatly improve it, both as regards shelter and ornament ; and that trees are capable of thriving, even in the most exposed situations, is evident from the fir clumps that surround the farms of Pleasantfield, Abbeyhill, Cockhill, and Bellsbank. Most of the fields in this high ground are subdivided by thorn hedges, and where thorns will grow, the more hardy forest trees would also thrive. Descending a little lower down, there is no want of wood 4 AYRSHIRE. in any direction, and the plantations that abound are finely diversi-* fied with the stately mansions and pleasure grounds of landed pro- prietors, which tend greatly to improve the scenery and aspect of the parish. The district in the immediate vicinity of Ayr is beau- tifully ornamented in this way, and the fields that are not under wood are cultivated and dressed like a garden* In the old parish fronting the town, the mansion house of CastlekiU, belonging to James Ballantyne, Esq. stands pre-eminently distinguished. It is situated on a commanding eminence, surrounded with fine plan- tations, and has a most mteresting view of Ayr, its harbour and bay, and the distant mountains of Arran. A little to the west of it is the secluded retreat of Belmont Cottage^ nearly hid among the trees in which it is embowered. A little further on, towards Allo- way, is the magnificent seat of RozeUe^ with its stately woods and en- closures, the residence of Archibald Hamilton, Esq., and Lady Jane M. Hamilton, daughter of the late and aunt of the present Earl of Eglinton, to whom the property belongs. To the south, at a short distance, lies the beautiful domain of Doonholm^ stretching along the banks of the Doon, and having its mansion-house almost entirely concealed by thick groves of thrivmg plantations. To the west, nearer the sea, is the House of Belle-isle, the residence of the late Alexander West Hamilton, Esq. of Pinmore, who al- most rebuilt it, by constructing a spacious edifice around the walls of the^old mansion, on one of the most enviable sites in the parish* It is now the property of his son Hugh, a minor, and rears its tur- reted gable, projections, and chimney tops above the trees, in the style of the old English baronial manor-houses. And in its imme- diate vicinity, is the elegant new mansion of Mount Charles^ stand- ing on a steep bank above the Doon, with a beautiful la^wn in front, and shaded all around with groves of plantations. When the parish of Alloway was united to that of Ayr, so bleak and bar- ren was its surface, that it was covered almost entirely with furze and heath, without shelter or ornament of any kind, except some natural wood along the banks of the river. It is on record, that ^< the lands were possessed by tenants, at the yearly rent of Is. dd« per acre, which they were unable to pay, and often became bank- rupts and beggars." At present, a great part of it is among the most fertile, the best cultivated, and the most finely wooded districts in the county, the land yielding a rent of upwards of L. 4 an acre^ and producing in crops a fair remunerating return to the farmer, Clmaie. — The climate at Ayr, although variable and moist, is 3 AYR. 5 Comparatively genial and salubrious, and the inhabitants in gene- ral are healthy and long-lived* The place, indeed, has been re- marked for longevity, and, as a proof that it is a consequence of the weather, it exists to a greater extent among those individuals who have remained stationary in th^e parish, several of whom are betwixt ninety and a hundred years old. The quantity of rain which falls is more than an average, but the open and porous sandy sub- soil allows the surplus moisture to filter through quickly, which of course leaves the surface at all times fit for labour and recreation in the open air, in fair weather. The footpaths and promenades near the town are generally dry and pleasant ; and exercise in walk- ing, to which the people are much addicted, combined with the bracing influence of the sea-breeze, contributes much to their ge- neral health and strength, and to promote exhilaration and equa- nimity of spirits. The temperature of the atmosphere is pretty uniform, the proximity of the sea serving to moderate its depres- sion in winter, and its elevation in summer. The thermometer is seldom below the freezing point, and never for any long continu- ance. Snow rarely lies for any length of time on the ground, and often, when it is very deep in the inland districts, it is found here hardly to cover the surface. The equality of the temperature may also depend in some degree on the flatness and dryness of the land, its high state of cultivation, the almost universal draining to which it is subjected, and the want of extensive woods to attract and retain moisture. The prevailing winds are the south and west, and those coming from the Atlantic are mild and moist, and never so injurious to health as the dry bitter eastern and northern gales. There are not any endemic diseases peculiar to the locality. The most obnoxious are catarrhal and rheumatic complaints, owing to the variableness of the climate in regard to moisture. Fever pre- vails among the destitute and poor, and sometimes to a very fetal extent. Pulmonary or consumptive disease is not generally severe, and is attended with symptoms that show it to be more owing to hereditary taint than external causes. Diseases of the glands are not unfrequent, but they are generally mild when judiciously treat- ed. Asthma is often met with, but it is rarely fatal. It is com- monly supposed that the climate here is unfavourable to it, and also to consimiptive complaints, but on inquiry, it does not appear that medical practitioners are disposed generally to favour this opi- nion. Hydrngraphy^ Springs. — Ayr ^bounds in springs every where, and 6 AYRSHIRE. they can easily be reached not far below the sur&ce of the earth. The spring water, however, is generally hard, and particularly in the town* It is very unfit for detergent and certain culinary purposes. It holds in solution carbonates of lime and magnesia, sulphates of lime and magnesia, and chlorides of lime, magnesia, and soda, but the salt most predominant is carbonate of lime. Traces of iron in combination, or as an oxide, are generally to be found, although in some wells they cannot be detected. It is obvious, that, however hard the water may be from these saline matters which it holds in solu- tion, it is not deleterious or hurtful, as, from their laxative nature^ when iron is in solution, it is rather tonic and corroborative to the system than injurious to it. A plan has be^ for some Hime in agitation for bringing an adequate supply of pure spring water in pipes from Carrick-hill, for the use of the inhabitants. This plan has now been matured, and the money necessary for the un* dertaking subscribed ; and a bill is about to be brought into Par- liament immediately to give it effect, so that the town is likely ere long to have in abundance, and in its purest state, one of the most indispensable and beneficial elements of life.* Lakes. — There are two small lochs in the country part of the parish, one towards the south, and the other on the eastern bounds ary ; but neither of them is of much extent or importance. The one to the east is the larger of the two, but it does not exceed a mile in circumference. It is called Loch Fergus, and^is mention- ed in the charters of the burgh, upwards of 600 years ago, as one of the limits of the regium donum of territorial property, made over to the burgh of Ayr. It has a small island in the middle, and abounds in pike, but in few, if any other fish, as this shark of the fresh waters is too voracious a tyrant to allow any of the small* er finny tribes to exist in the same element in its neighbourhood* There were, it is said, till lately, the remains of an old ruined castle near its margin, which probably was used as a shooting station by the Cassillis family, to whom the property belongs. The ma« terials have been used in building and repairing farm tf^a^ftn^tf and dikes in the vicinity. Herons, wild duoks, and other erratic fowls, occasionally frequent it, and its situation is sufficiently wild and lonely to encourage them, Biver Ayr* — This river takes its rise in the eastern extremity * Since the above was written, we have learned that this plan has been in the ineantime defeated, in connequenoe of some disagreement as to terms, on the part of \\i9 Marquis of Ail»i the proprietor of the aprings, AYR. I of the count;, about thirty miles from its influx into the sea, and it runs through the whole breadth of the shire, to which in this view it appropriately gives its name, dividing it into two nearly equal part& Along the upper part of its course^ the scenery is naked and uninteresting, as it flows through a moorland mountainous country, covered with extensive sheep-walks, almost entirely bare of wood, and with hardly any banks above the heaths and meadows that surround it After it reaches the vills^ of Sorn, however, the scenery becomes exceedingly grand and picturesque, and con- tinues so all the way to its mouth. . In fact, for nearly twenty miles^ few streams can excel it for richness and variety of landscape. It exhibits the sublime and beautiful in nature's works, in endless succession, and in every possible variety of combination, while at the same time it receives ample assistance from the ornaments of art, in the numerous magnificent mansions and pleasure grounds which adorn its borders, seeking from it in return, variety, beauty, and fertility. It is subject at times to sudden and impetuous floods, during which it carries down great quantities of alluvial mat- ter, which it deposits at its mouth, thereby forming a bar, which is a great obstruction to the entrance and egress of vessels, and a formidable drawback to the harbour of Ayr^ as an emporium of trade. At a short distance above the harbour are <^ the Tnoa Brig^y^ rendered £unous by the humorous poem of Burns, which bears that title. The new bridge is a handsome structure, and well placed, and convenient enough for the use of the public, though rather too narrow. The other is entirely shut up, except to foot- passengers. JBtoer Docn. — This classic stream, which forms the south-western boundary of the parish, rises out of a lake of the same name, about eighteen miles inland to the south-east of Ayr, bounded by high mountains, and situated on the confines betwixt Ayrshire and the stewartry of Kirkcudbright' The lake from which it claims its paternity is exceedingly picturesque, from the elevated mountain ridges with which it is surrounded, and were these covered with wood, instead of being naked moorland pasture, they might vie with the lake scenery of Cumberland. In issuing from this interesting sheet of water, the river formerly ran over the top of a narrow - edging of rock, about 15 or 20 feet above the bed of the stream below. But as the lake was found to be nearly of the same depth on the other side, two mines have been cut through the rock through which the water has been brought, and two sluices pla- 8 AYB8HIRE:. .ced at their mouths, which maintain the complete command of the current This work was effected with the view of recovering a considerable extent of ground around the lake, by diminishing the depth and extent of its water. The effect contemplated has no doubt been accomplished, in one view, by the diminution of the surface of water to the extent of nearly one-half, but little advan- tage has been gained, in consequence of the land recovered being entirely useless by its channelly surface, while the lake has been greatly injured in point of beauty and extent It is still, however, much frequented in fishing excursions* The Doon on its egress, as above described, runs for nearly a mile through a rocky precipi- tous chasm, overhung with trees and brushwood, along the bottom of which a romantic sequestered walk has been cut for foot-pas- sengers, where the rocks on both sides are so perpendicular and rugged to a great height, as almost to exclude the light of the sun, and to form a scene exceedingly sublime and striking. The scenery on its banks below Dalmellington is very tame, as the river runs for several miles through a flat b(^ and meadow, with hardly any declination of surface, and nothing to give interest or variety to its banks. When it reaches Skeldon, however, it as- sumes a very picturesque appearance, its banks rising in promi- nency, and being well covered with wood ; and these features it pre- serves till it mingles its waters with the sea, two miles to the west of Ayr. The Sea-Beach — Change in the Course of the Doon — The coast to the same extent is much frequented by the inhabitants of the town for air and exercise, and the walk along the sands is always in- teresting, on account of the healthful breeze from the waters, and the never-failing attractiveness of a sea view. The extent of coast, however, within the parish, must have been more confined at one time than it is at present, as the Doon seems to have joined the sea much nearer the town than it does by its present course. This suggests a topic of considerable interest and curiosity ; but we have litUe to aid us, not even tradition, in our inquiries respecting it There seems to be little reason to doubt, that formerly the river had a different bed at the lower extremity of the parish from what it now ret^ns, and the alteration appears to have taken place im- mediately below the lower bridge. There are obvious indications that, at or under this point, it ran along nearly the line of the present road by the south of Gowkscraft nursery , and the eastern boundary of the farm of Cunning Park, — that it diverged to the west of Sea- AYR. 9 field House and the fields of Blackburn, — and that it joined the sea at, or not far from, the present mouth of the Water of Ayr. It is not easy to determine when or how the change into its pre- sent channel took place ; whether it was by the unaided workings of nature, or by artificial means, for the sake of the ground that would be recovered by a less circuitous course. The latter con- sideration was likely to present a motive su£Bciently adequate for the undertaking, since, by means of the change, a valuable extent of ground has been gained from the sea, which, quoad civiliaj still is attached to Maybole parish, affording an indubitable evi- dence that it once belonged to it, without the river intervening as at present to separate them. The receding of the sea, no doubt, may also have aided in effecting the change. There are indica- tions which can easily be traced of the former bed of the river, all the way from the new bridge near Belle-isle gate house to the head of the Low Green, a line of low marshy ground running along the whole way, except where it has lately been filled up and cul- tivated on the Blackburn property. The only difficulty that oc- curs is to account for the raised up bank at and below the Low Bridge of Doon, which is several feet above the level of the stream. If the course was changed, however, by artificial means, the same means would be used to keep it from getting into its former chan- nel, by the fence of an elevated forced embankment, which the rising ground here above the river evidently is, from the declivity that takes place on the Ayr road immediately after passing the bridge. But we can produce something more than mere conjec- ture on this subject A few years ago a very handsome bell of considerable dimensions, with the words Gloria Soli Doe (for Deo) marked upon it in large letters, was found in the marshy grounds behind Blackburn House, which we have supposed to have been the bed of the river, together with some spars of a vessel that seems to have been stranded or sunk near its mouth. . From this it would appear to have been navigable like the Ayr for some short distance above its confluence with the sea* Blackburn itself is sy- nonymous with the Doon river* The Bay of Ayr is by &r the finest feature of the scenery con- nected with the town and parish, and in that view merits a parti- cular description. It is formed by the junction of the Frith of Clyde, with the waters of the Atlantic. On all sides it appears bounded by prominent outlines of land scenery, except towards the west, whence in a clear day the distant coast of Ireland is dim- 10 AYBSHrBE^ ly seen in the horizon peering above the wide expanse of ocean which surrounds it Nearer in the same direction, the view is also relieved by the very prominent Craig ofAiUa^ by &r the most re- markable object on the coast of Ayrshire. It rises to the height of about a thousand feet above the level of the sea, and is two miles in circumference at its base. To a great distance, both at sea and on land, it is seen towering its majestic conical peak in so- litary grandeur, being nearly perpendicular on all sides, and con- sisting of a stupendous bare rock of the tr^ formation, on which there is hardly any vegetation, and no signs of life, with the ex- ception of numerous flocks of gannets or solan geese, and other sea fowls. The beholder is struck with awe at its prominent and precipitous appearance, and wonders how such an object could have been produced in so solitary a situation, amid the deep wa- ters of the open sea, without anything to correspond with it in any direction. It generally appears to the eye from afiur shrouded in light blue mist, unless when it assumes a more sombre veil amid fdgs, and rain, and tempest. On one side, the bay is bounded by the coast of Ayrshire, com- mencing at the promontory of Carrick hill, and inclining inwards in a concave form, like a bow upon the stretch. At its termination to* wards the north, are seen the islands of Cumbraes and the Bute hills, which appear almost contiguous, the inlet of Clyde being hardly perceptible from a dbtance, and behind these are the pro- minent mountains of Argyleshire. There is also to be seen in the distance towards the north the majestic summit of Benlomond, re- calling to mind the beautifiil lake at its base ; and the country of the Macgregor, abounding in savage grandeur,— scenes rendered deeply interesting by the magic pen of Sir Walter Scott But itK most marked boundary by far is the island of Arran, with its lofty mountains stretching along nearly the whole of its coast to the north and west, with the projection from behind of the Mull of Cantyre. These nK)untains communicate to it its principal in- terest and grandeur, and, according to the state of the weather, it derives from them an endless succession of noble appearances, with which the view of the beholder is constantly relieved and capti- vated. Sometimes they are bright with sunshine and gladsome se- renity, at others dark and frowning amid clouds and storms. In summer, they are seen with hazy shadows flitting across their ridges, or are beat upon with an incessant glare of solar heat and radiance ; while in winter thev seem grand and imposing in the ex* . AYR. 11 treme, with a thick covering of snow^ glittering in dazzling white- neas from afiir, and with dark or fleecy clouds passing in endless succession over their lofty summits. But the sublimest and most pleasing aspect which they assume is when the sun has ^^ just sunk beneath the western wave" in a calm clear evening, throwing his golden beams over their majestic ridges, so finely and distinctly marked in the serene azure sky, while all other objects underneath have already been thrown into the soft and dusky shade of twi- light. Where Arran terminates, the projecting point of Cantyre pro- longs the boundary of the bay considerably further to Uie west, so that with this apparent contiguity of land all around, except at one point, and that point only seen in one line of view, it looks like .a lake of very lai^e dimensions, diversified everywhere along its borders with the most beautiful and striking features. With the exception of the Bay of Naples, there is hardly any thing per- haps of the kind that can rival it in extent, taken in conjunction with its beauty, grandeur, and attractiveness. The Bay of Dub- lin is both inferior in point of size, and tamer in prominent and magnificent outline. The Wicklow mountains no doubt have a wild grandeur about them, but they form not the fine marginal variety that the mountains of Arran and Argyleshire, and the other scenery around, give to the Bay of Ayr, which is an object of admiration to all strangers, and of delight to all who live up- on its borders. Along the far projecting coast of Cunningham, to the north-east, may be seen in a clear day, glittering in the sunshine, the thriving towns of Ardrossan, Stevenston, Saltcoats, Kilwinning, and Irvine, which give interest and variety to the scene, and convey the idea of a district teeming with anim^tioi^ wealth, and industry. The town of Ayr stands in its south cor- ner, and derives from it principally its healthiness, as well as its enviableness of situation. Its waters present a never-ending va- riety to the view, and every new aspect which they assume, exhi- bits different phases of interest, to all who admire the grand and beautiful in natural scenery. Gfdcffy* — The parish of Ayr, having something of a peninsu- lar form, by the boundaries of the Ayr and Doon and the sea, on three of its sides, — ^is greatly modified by this position in its geo- logical character. Though undulating in its surface, it may ge*« nerally be described as sloping gradually towards the rivers on the north and south, and the sea on the west, the inland part ris-* 12 AYRSHIRE. ■ iDg into elevations of considerable height The portion lying ad- jacent to the coast, and extending from the one stream to the other, is nearly one continued level. This last section of the pa- rish is composed of sand and gravel, when we descend to any depth below the immediate surface, which, through the influence of cultivation, has, in the course of time, been changed from it9 natural state. Along the line where this flat surface begins to rise into elevated acclivities, a very considerable depth of moss earth is very generally found, and in some places, where excava- tions have been made, singular alternations of this moss earth with fine sand have been disclosed. These substances are in this case found in regular strata, evidently formed by water. The'sur&ce on the elevated portions of the parish, on the other hand, is com- posed chiefly of clay mixed with water-rounded stones of the trap or whinstone species. In general, therefore, the parish may be described as presenting a superficial district of no definite geo- logical character, the external surface being covered with a dilu- vium, or broken mass of sand, gravel, and clay, intermixed with the water-worn detached whinstones already mentioned. This covering of disintegrated materials hides completely the rocks on which it lies ; and hence it is only by analogy — ^by com- paring certain portions with the neighbouring strata, which are known, that its structure can be ascertained. When the rocks in their original bed are seen, either along the course of the rivers, or in opening quarries, or digging for coal, they are found to belong principally to the trap or whinstone species, like the boulders on the surface. Along the course of the Ayr, indeed, a coarse red-coloured sandstone appears, but in other parts the trap prevails. The uppermost geological character of the whole parish thus evidently belongs to the coal formation. This useful mineral, however, which forms the great source of subterranean wealth in the neighbouring districts, has tended but little to enrich the pro- prietors in this parish. Here coal has been worked only for a few hundred yards within its northern boundary. Indeed it may be said that, except in its very extremity, at the embouchure of the river Ayr, no minings for coal have succeeded. Even here the workings are supposed to be exhausted, and after having been tra- ced for a short distance southward, the veins have ended or dis- appeared, and the works have been discontinued. The seam is about three feet eight inches in thickness, and the quality is of the kind called splint coal, the same bed apparently that has been for AYR, 13 many years, and still is, worked to a great extent in the parishes of Newton and St Quivoz, on the opposite side of thd river. From this position of the coal-field, we are enabled to ascertain the direction of the strata, or slope of lower geological formation of the parish. These strata rise by a gradual ascent towards the southern boundary, which is formed by the Doon, immediately be- yond which begins the range of Carrick hill. But in the stratifi- cation, some remarkable phenomena have been discovered in searching for or working coal. It has been already noticed, that trap or whinstone forms the main body of the rock throughout the parish, but it is here more diversified than usually occurs in coal districts. In the coal formation, dikes^ or vertical detached strata are common, and, as is well known, present the most for- midable and annoying obstruction to the operations of the miner. In Ayr parish, basalt trap occurs not only in these perpendicular walls, cutUng through or deranging the coal seams, but also sends out protrusions and ramifications on all side^, and at various angles of inclination. These branches or streams, for the -whole appears as if it had been once fluid, have penetrated between the other solid strata, destroying thus the seams of coal. This is doubtless the cause why these seams, which in the neighbouring parishes to the north of the Ayr are wrought to so much advantage, are un- productive here. One seam of coal, which would otherwise be valuable, is known to be overlaid by one of these horizontal beds of trap, to the thickness of twenty -four feet. Mineralogy* — The mineralogy in this parish is not of much im- portance. There are no metals to be found, nor metalliferous ores, which deserve particular notice. Along the shore, some fine specimens of agate are occasionally met with ; and in the bed of the Ayr is procured the peculiar species of clay-stone, with mi- nute grains of dark felspar and mica, so well known over the country by the name of Water of Ayr stone^ and used so general- ly as a whetstone for fine-edged tools, and for polishing marble and metals. The organic remains which have been discovered occur chiefly in the dark shale which accompanies the freestone and coal formation. These consist of beautiful impressions of ferns, and trunks, and branches of trees, imbedded in the masses of the stra- ta. A freestone quarry was formerly worked near the town, but it is now abandoned, and supplies of stone for building have to be brought from the neighbouring parishes. The stone, besides, was so far under the surface, that the working was expensive. 14 AYRSHIRE. 2oo/fl^.*— ^This pariflh is not remarkable for any rare aninials. Foxes are found in some of the coTerts, and are numerous in several of the neighbouring parishes. They are rather encouraged than otherwise by the gentlemen sportsmen of the country, — two packs of fox-hounds being stationed in this vicinity during a considerable part of the year. Otters are occasionally seen in the Doon and Ayr, or the lakes and streams connected with these rivers, and the common seal frequents the seaF-coast, though neither are sought after either for sport or utility. Hares, rabbits, pheasants, and partridges, although not so numerous as formerly, are still com- mon, and we have been informed that quails at one time were abundant Now, however, if not altogether extinct, they are very rarely to be met with. Woodcocks, snipes, land and water-rails, and green and golden plover, are also common in their seasons, together with several varieties of sandpipers along the beach. The soli- tary bittern has sometimes been found, and his congener the heron may be often seen in the small brooks, with his head overtopping the rushes like a sentinel watching for his prey. The kingsfisher and water-ouzel are also found on the streams, and several of the smaller description of hawks and owls, including the goatsucker and fern-owl. Fieldfares and snowflakes are to be met with during seve- ral of the winter months. The starling is a rare bird, but'not alto- gether unknown here. The same variety of birds, both mdigenous and migratory, which is common to the country, is as abund- ant in this vicinity as elsewhere. In severe weather, wild swan, geese, ducks, and also barnacle, are sometimes seen on the coast, and widgeon and teal of several varieties^ are then also very com- mon. Sea-gulls, divers, and, in short, sea-fowl of every kind are numerous on our shores, and, during the spring months, the gan- net or solan-goose, from the rocky summit of Ailsa, its usual haunt and breeding-place, is not unfrequently seen, sweeping along the coast, descending occasionally like an arrow on its prey. The Doon and the Ayr have been long celebrated for their sal- mon-fishings. The former is probably one of the earliest rivers in this respect in Scotland. It is generally believed that at no time is it destitute of salmon in a clean marketable condition. Before the passing of the late act, extending the close time to the Jst of Feb- ruary, they were commonly taken as early as Christmas, and dur- * Though several of the animals under this bead be neither rare nor peculiar to the locality, yet diey may be noticed here, as this may perhaps be the only parish on the western eoaat, where they will be found in combination. 4 AYR. 15 ing the month of January, a great number of excellent fish were annually caught. It is somewhat singular, that while the Doon is so early, the Ayr, situated within so short a distance from it, like the other rivers in Ayrshire, is unusually late, very few fish being caught there before the beginning of June. Atone time, this fish was so abundant that it not only formed a chief part of the food of the inhabitants, but was exported in large quantities, from Ayr to France, in exchange for wine and other produce of that country. Now, however, the number taken is comparatively small, particu- larly in the river Ayr, where the fishing b nearly destroyed. The cause of the decrease of the salmon may, in a great degree, be at- tributed to the erection of a high dam-dike in the Ayr, near its mouth, over which the fish have great difficulty in ascending. A most objectionable dike also exists in the Doon, at Alloway mill, attend- ed with similar results, though not to so great an extent. The consequence of these impediments is, that the fish are at all times obstructed in their free passage up the streams to spawn, and dur- ing the fishing-season, detained and taken by the fishermen. The other causes are, the extensive liming of the lands, steeping of lint, the introduction of manufactures on the banks, the destruction of the salmon by poachers when in the a'ct of spawning, and the va- rious stake-nets and other devices, now resorted to for theircapture, In the Doon, however, and along the coast in the vicinity of its mouth, numbers continue to be taken, — more than enough to sup- ply Ayr market ; and the surplus finds a ready sale in larger towns at a distance. Although the inclination of the salmon seems to impel them to ascend the streams at all periods of the summer, when there is sufficient water, yet the months in which they chiefly resort thither are August, September, and October. According as they are in an advanced or a late stage of breeding, they soon afterwards de- posit their spawn, and return to the sea during the months of January, February, March, and April. But in the Doon, salmon on the eve of spawning have been found not only early in the autumn, but as late as March and April, which may account for that river's bemg so early in producing clean fish, compared with other streams. Besides the common river trout during the summer months, more particularly in the Doon, excellent sea trout are taken in considerable quantities. The lamprey is occasionally found in both rivers, but never used as an article of food ; and that mysterious little fish, the par, is likewise common to both. Much discussion^ 16 AYRSHIRE. it is well known, has arisen as to whether the par be the young of the salmon; or a distinct species by itself. Botany f — Forest Trees, — In the immediate vicinity of the sea, it is difficult, or perhaps in some cases impossible, to get forest trees tp thrive, as the sea air has a blasting influence on most of them. There are some, however, which it does not much affect, such as wil- lows and poplars, and both of these sometimes grow to a great size^ when all other kinds become dwarfish and stunted. Those, there- fore, who prefer fixing their residence near the beach, and at the same time court the ornament and shelter of plantations, can only hope to have their wishes gratified in this respect, by planting closely at first, and thinning out afterwards, as the trees advance in size ; and more particularly by forming an edging of the hardy plants above-mentioned, for protection on the sides most exposed to the obnoxious sea-breezes. By following this mode, a great many clumps of wooded enclosures have been reared, beside mansions and villas that fringe the coast to the west of the town, which tend much to adorn its environs, and contribute both to the shelter and fertility of the grounds oVer which they are in- terspersed. A little more inland, trees are found to thrive with great luxuriance, as the plantations which surround Belle-isle, Ro- zelle, and Mount Charles will bear ample testimony. In these, are to be seen as tall and handsomely formed beeches as can be met with anywhere else perhaps in the county. Though a con- siderable part of the parish is well hooded, yet there are no woods in it of any great extent They consist of small belts or clumps- intersecting or inclosing cultivated fields, and surrounding gardens and pleasure grounds in the vicinity of gentlemen's seats. None of the landed proprietors think of cultivating timber for profit or sale, but only for shelter and ornament, and hence it would not be easy to ascertain what extent of the surface of the parish alto- gether is under wood. The ground which it occupies, however^ must be considerable. Shrubs and Plants* — With respect to shrubs there are some pecu- liarly fine and thriving ones, resembling small bushy trees, to be seen in the domains we have already mentioned, and also about Doon- holm, Castlehill, and Burns's monument At the last named place, there is no person who has a taste for horticulture but must be gra- tified with the richness and luxuriance of the collection, and the taste with which they are dressed and set out We are not aware of any plants that are peculiar to the parish, with theexception of the follow-. AYR. 17 ing one, which has been pointed out to us by an intelligent practical gardener in this neighbourhood, who has paid great attention to the study of botany. We shall give the account of it in his own words : ** A few years ago there was found on the farm of Cockhill, about three miles south-east from Ayr, a very fine species of Ononis. In its general appearance it approaches near to spinosa. The root is stationary, which distinguishes it from the (hwnis arvensis. The stems rise about two feet high, are very spiny, and covered in sum- mer with a profusion of red-coloured blossoms of a very handsome appearance. This plant has been sent to various quarters of Britain, and is known in gardens under the name of Ononis spinosissima. It has not been found anywhereelse, nor has it as yet been described in any botanical work." Another botanical friend has informed us, that he once found a very fine specimen of the (Enothera bien^nis^ in a state of nature, among some solitary sand-hills, far from any garden whence its seeds could have escaped. He supposes the seed to have been blown to that spot, from some timber ships from America, as it is un- certain whether it has ever been found before in Scotland, in a wild state. What will be reckoned interesting to botanists in regard to the temperature of this place, is the fact, that in the garden of Mount Charles, the Acacia dealbata^ and the Benthamiafragifera^ the for- mer on a wall, the latter in a border, have stood the last winter without any covering, and without having received the smallest in- jury. Though there are no plants that are peculiar to the parish, with the exception above described, yet there are some that are rarely found anywhere else. For instance, the Brassica Monensis, or Isle of Man cabbage, grows in great abundance along the sea coast in the vicinity of the town, and though it is to be found in Bute and Arran, yet it is seldom or never met with on the main- land. The Convolvulus soldaneUa has been picked up once or twice on the sands, but it grows with great luxuriance on the shores of a neighbouring parish. It has been remarked, that plants ac- quire a greater brilliancy of colouring here than in most other places of Scotland, probably owing to the arid nature of the soil ; certainly very handsome specimens may be obtained. The most numerous classes are the Vida^ Trifolia and Gramina^ and it might perhaps be of advantage to the stock-farmer to be at pains to im- prove the two former in his pastures and sheep walks. From the proximity to the sea shore, there are some plants that are indigenous in this parish, and by no means common in many parts of Scotland. Among others we may mention the following : AYB. B 18 AYR8H1RE Carez depressa Centunculus minimiu Scirpus maritima Eryngium maritimum Hippuris vulgaris Draba verna Sagiua maritima Lamium album Arenaria serpyllifolia Papaver dubium trine rvis MaWa sylvestris Anagallis tenella rrifolium striatum Scandix antbriscus Aira canescens CoDTolvulus arvensifl Hypericum Elod^tu II. — Civil History. Ayr Town, — The town of Ayr is seen to great advantage from any part of the rising grounds, from which the traveller must ap- proach it on almost every road that communicates with the inte- rior. It stands on a broad level plain, and can be seen at the dis- tance of several miles in all directions. But by far the most fa- vourable view of it is that from the south in the direction of Car- rick Hill, which commands one of the finest prospects to be met with anywhere, and the town forms none of the least attractive points in the landscape. Here it seems a very striking object, — the handsome new buildings on the side of Wellington Square and Bams* Street, first appearing to the eye, shaded by the plantations that adorn the numerous villas that intervene in the suburbs. The old part of Ayr is almost hid in the back ground, unless in so far as the irregular tops of the chimneys and gable ends peer above, or are seen through some open space, giving it a turreted sort of aspect, and conveying an impression of greater extent than in rea- lity belongs to it. The county buildings, the lofty tapering new spire, and the imposing Gothic-like erection of Wallace Tower, have tended much to beautify and adorn the town, and to add to the effect of its appearance, when seen from a distance. When Ayr is spoken of generally, the name is made to comprehend the -congregated streets and buildings on both sides of the river, in- cluding a population of betwixt 16,000 and 17,000 inhabitants. This make^ it appear a place of more importance than it is, and - equal in point of numerical strength to our third rate towns in Scotland. It has been united already in one way to this extent, by the parliamentary boundary laid down by the Reform Act, and it is in contemplation to incorporate Ayr, Newton, and Wallace- town under one civil jurisdiction, combining all their rights and privileges under one common interest This plan seems to be op- posed at present, on separate grounds, by the magistrates both of Ayr and, Newton ; but the obstacles and objections to the junction . may not perhaps be found insuperable by the national Legislature. * * Since the abo\e was w/itten, we understand that in a new Scotch municipal bUl, AYR. 19 Charter and Antiquity^ — Ayr is one of the most ancient of our Scotch burghs, — a synod and presbytery seat, — a circuit station of the Justiciary Court, — the metropolis of the county which bears its name, — and the returning burgh of the set with which it is united in sending a Memlier to Parliament, viz. Irvine, Campbelton, In- verary, and Oban. It obtained its charter of royalty from King William, surnamed the Lion, in the year 1202. The charter itself does not bear date of the vear in which it was conferred, but it has for witness -to it the name of Florence, Archbishop of Glasgow, thus designed, electa cancillario meo Glasguensu Now it appears from other records, that he was advanced to this high office during the year above-mentioned, and as it could not thus have been earlier, we cannot err much in fixing this as the date of it. This charter conferred on the burgh very important privileges, and very extensive property, extending its jurisdiction over the whole parish, and making over to it the whole of its lands, in perpetual tenure, for payment of a small feu-duty. This has been deemed a very magnificent grant, and so it was, as compared with grants conveyed in charters to other royal burghs. But it will not be apt to appear so very liberal, when it is considered that the whole parish, at that time, was one entire forest, and of very little valiie. The Kings of Scotland, however, had shown a more than usual munificence to Ayr on different occasions, as we find Alexander the Second con- firming his father's grant, and afterwards bestowing in addition the whole of the lands of Alloway, and extending the jurisdiction over the two parishes. Property. — It would appear that a subsequent charter was given to the town by King Robert Bruce, dated at Dunfermline, in which^ besides confirming the grants and privileges conferred by his pre* decessors, he erects the parish of Alloway into a barony, under the lordship of the magistrates. That all this extensive territory was covered with forest trees, and consequently of little value, is evi- dent from the privilege having been conferred on the burgesses of Ayr, of acquiring such portions of the land as they might clear of wood, on paying twelve pennies yearly for every six acres so cleared. In the charter of Alexander in 1236, the burgesses are prohibited from usingthe wood of the lands of Alloway, but for useful purposes, and for their own accommodation. ^* Non ardebunt, nee dabunt, nee vendent, nee aliquo mode distruent, sed solum mode capient about to be brought forward, Ayr is to remain as it is, with the addition of another bailie, though the success of the measure we think questionable. 20 AYRSHIRE. quod necessarium est ad propria sedificia sua de Are, etad proprias naves suas de Are faciendas." Many roots and pieces of oak and other timber are at this day found in bogs, and various other places in the parish, in tolerable preservation. The lands thus bestowed have long since been disposed of, and are in the possession of va* rious proprietors, but the superiority remains with the magistrates, and their jurisdiction still extends over the whole of the united parish. They were no doubt sold at what was considered a fair price at the time, but what we would reckon trifling compared with the present value of landed property. Had they been retained, they might have now yielded to the town a rental of betwixt L. 8000 and L. 10,000 a year, which would have rendered it one of the richest burghs in Scotland. It is perhaps as well as it is. It is better for a public body to depend on the resources of enterprise and exertion, than on large patrimonial possessions. The annual income of the town amounts to. upwards of L. 2000, arising from land, houses, feus, customs, &c., and the expenditure to within a little of that sum, paid in salaries, interest on borrowed money, public burdens, and other disbursements.* The public debt is little short of L. 20,000, the greater part of which has been laid out in the erection of the large handsome range of new buildings at the cross, together with the spire and Wallace Tower. In 1792, the town owed no debt, but then its income amounted only to L. 740 yearly. History.' — Ayr appears to have been a town of some importance, long before the period to which authentic Scotch history extend.*^ It is not mentioned in any of the Roman authors that we know of, but it is likely to have been well known to the Romans during their occupation of Scotland, as one branch t)f their great military road from Galloway into this district has been traced by some ob- vious remains, as we shall afterwards see, to within a short distance of where the town now stands, where it probably terminated as a military station or sea-port Various relics have been discovered, such as urns and culinary utensils, at a considerable depth from the sur&ce, which seem to bear marks of Roman origin. The place is repeatedly mentioned in the history of Scotland. Indeed, from its commanding position, as connected with the bay, and be- ing a point of easy communication with a widely extended district, it must always have been a place of considerable note. A castle * In 1835. the ordinary income was L. 2207, ds. 10d.,and the ordinary ezpendU ture was I^. 1881 , 8s. lOd , leaving a balance in favour of the town, of L. 926, 2s., but the extraordinary expenditure is generally equal to the surplus revenue. AYR. 21 was built near the mouth of the river by William the Lion, be- fore he granted his charter, erecting it into a burgh. This is distinctly stated in the charter itself, novo meo castello de Are. While the English forces occupied Ayr during the usurpation of Scotland by Edward I., they no doubt held possession of this castle also ; but probably, from its not being sufficient to contain them, they appear to have erected a temporary barrack or encamp- ment at the south-east side of the town, called the Bams of Ayr, to which Sir William Wallace set fire, he and his followers having retired to a neighbouring hill, since called Bum or Bamweil^ to sur- vey the conflagration they had occasioned. This remains a tradi- tion to the present day. This castle is mentioned in Scotch his- tory, as having been burned by King Robert Bruce in 1298, to prevent its falling again into the possession of an English army who were marching westward to attack him, whom he did not find himself strong enough to encounter. It seems to have been in con- sequence of this demolition, when he assembled his barons, and dignified clergy at Ayr sometime after, to settle the order of suc- cession to the throne, that the meeting was held in the church of St Johii. It was at this meeting, it is supposed, that the charter of constitution was granted to the barony of Newion-upon-Ayr, a band of the inhabitants of that place having fought under his banner, at the celebrated battle of Bannockburn. No traces now remain of the, castle of Ayr : — but it probably «tood at the east corner or bastion of Cromwell's Fort, not jfar from the academy. There are various other notices of Ayr to be met with in the annals of Scotland, but none of much historical importance, or that properly falls within the province of this account We shall therefore proceed to exhibit a view of its present state with respect to improvements and public buildings. Improvements. — Few places have undergone a greater change for the better than this town has done, within the last twenty years. During that time, it has made greater advances in architectural and other improvements, than it had done perhaps during a century before. As a proof of this, we shall extract the following account of the state in which the town was found by the writer of it, at the time the work was published in which it is contained ; and from personal recollections we do not think it exggerated. We quote from the Edinburgh Encyclopaedia. ^* The streets are ill lighted, wretchedly paved, and very indifferently cleaned. Side pave- ments of flag-stones for foot-passengers might be mentioned among I I 22 AYRSHIRE. the desiderata that might easily be supplied. The prison, like the old tolbooth of Edinburgh, interlines and almost blocks op one of the principal streets. Security is the only consideration, which seems to have gained the attention of those who planned this public nuisance, which is not so much the terror of evil doers, as the horror of those who do well." Now we have only to con- trast with this short but very graphic description, the condition in which the town now appears to strangers, in order to be impress- ed with the great improvement that has since been effected. The nuisance complained of — the old gaol — has been entirely removed ; by which means, a fine spacious street has been laid open from Wel- lington Square to the new bridge, improving progressively, by new edifices on both sides, of which the new spire with the spacious and elegant buildings attached to it, and the Ayrshire Bank, may be mentioned as specimens. The principal streets are well light- ed with gas, causewayed, and kept tolerably clean, and side pave- ments are generally formed from one end of the town to the other. The square already named on the west endy whether we consider the neatness of the houses, or the fineness of the situation, with its beautiful sea view, can hardly be surpassed in any other pro- vincial town in Scotland. County Buildings, — These are situated on the north-west side of this square, and were erected nearly twenty years ago, from a design by Mr Wallace, architect. They are formed after the model of an ancient temple dedicated to Isis at Rome, and cost the county an expense of upwards of L. 30,000, which was raised by an assessment under the authority of an Act of Parliament. The look of the structure, in front, is rather heavy from its mas- siveness, and not very imposing. It is certainly not nearly so orna- mental to the town, as a building costing so large a sum might have been made to appear. It occupies a very advantageous situation* There are only two stories, with an entrance in front, ornament- ed with large circular columns, formed out of immense blocks of stone brought from Arran, having capitals, architrave and en- tablature corresponding — covering a spacious portico, with a broad flight of steps leading to it from the area in front. From this, there is an entrance into a very handsome lobby, lighted from the top by a magnificent dome, rising to a considerable height above the whole building, and forming the most ornamental part of its ex- terior. The interior workmanship also, from the bottom to the top of the dome, is rich in architectural decorations to a very AYR. 23 great degree, and has been executed with, great skill, and at a very considerable expense. From the centre of the lobby, there rises a circular double staircase, of broad and easy ascent, leading to the apartments above. The lower part of the buildings is laid out in offices for gentlemen officially belonging to the law courts of the county and burgh, on each side of a long passage running lengthways from one end to the other. It is rather ill lighted, and even the offices, particularly to the back, though convenient enough otherwise, are liable to the same objec- tion. The upper storey consists chiefly of two large halls with ante* rooms for the judges and gentlemen of the court, and retiring room& for the jury and the witnesses. One of the halls forms the Justi-^ ciary Court Room, and can hold upwards of 600 people. Above the Judges' bench, the royal arms of Britain are finely executed in stain* ed glass, which have afine effect. At theeast end is the County Hall^ which was intended originally for a Jury Court Room ; but as these two courts never have occasion to hold their sittings at the same time, it has not been fitted up for this purpose. It is a large and splendid apartment, very richly finished, but, unless for being occa- sionally converted into a banqueting or ball room, it is nearly su- perfluous to the county for any public use. It contains a portrait of the late Lord Eglinton, in the uniform of the Royal Highland Re-^ giment, of which he was Colonel, representing the regiment as pur^ suing a tribe of Indian savages in the woods of America, during the American war. It contains, besides, another portrait of Mr Ha- milton of Sundrum, late Convener of Ayrshire. Both of these were voted as a tribute of respect by the county, after their death ; -—and, though the costume and bearing in which they are painted are not appropriate, this was owing to the artist having nothing to copy from, except originals of old date. Town*B New Buildinffs, — These are very handsome and com-* modious, and reflect great honour on Mr Hamilton of Edin-^ burgh, the architect. The site on which they are built, every- body allows, is unfavourable for showing them to great advantage. They stand on rather a low situation, and close to the street, and of course are not capable of being viewed as a uniform whole, from any commanding position at a proper distance. Several much, more imposing situations might have been selected, but there were drawbacks in the way, it seems, in point of expense, and of private property interfering, and from other considerations, which prevented the authorities from fixing on more eligible ground. The buildings 24 AYRSHIRE. contain an elegant spacious news-room, and Tarious other apart-' ments for town's meetings, &c. all of which are constructed in such a manner, as to be capable of being thrown into one suit of rooms for public dinners, balls, and assemblies, on great occasions. The spire is 226 feet in height, said to be about tlie highest in Scot* land, and has a bell weighing 22 cwt, of a rich deep-toned sound, which can be heard at a great distance in calm weather. 771^ ^ire is reckoned very handsome, and in good taste as to archi- tectural decorations and proportions. Its appearance has a fine effect, and is a great ornament to the town. During the winter of 1835, it was struck by lightning, more than midway from the ground, in a frightful thunder storm, which happened in the dead of night, occasioning great alarm to the inhabitants. The bolt wrenched in an instant two of the large massy stones from their places, on one side of the building, driving one of them to a con- siderable distance, without, however, doing any material injury. The damage was repaired last summer, at a considerable expense, incurred chiefly by the difficult and complex construction of scaf- folding for the purpose. There is another ornament of a similar kind, also of late erec- tion, and from a design by the same architect. This is called JVaUace Tawer^ for what reason does not appear. It has been built near the middle of the east side of the High Street, on the site of an old building of the same name, of many years standing, which was pulled down to make room for it It appears to give great sa- tisfaction to the inhabitants of the east end of the town, as by its means they enjoy the benefit of a town's clock, and a bell for an- nouncing public worship. The tower is a handsome building, and is also very ornamental to Ayr, particularly as seen from a distance, its height being about 1 15 feet The architect, in his design, ap- pears to have wished to erect something after the fashion of the Gothic-like structures of the days of Wallace. There is a statue of Wallace in front of the tower, in a niche towards the main street; but the artist, Thom, does not appear to have been very happy in his conception of the hero, either in point of costume or expres- sion of character. So far, however, as mere workmanship is con- cerned, it shows every indication of being well executed. Old and New Church. — The old church was erected about the middle of the seventeenth century, during the protectorate of Cromwell, to supply the place of the ancient church of St John, which he had appropriated to another purpose, in the new fort he AYR. 26 had boilt at Ayr. It is generally understood that he furnished the money by which the present edifice was erected^ or at least ad* vanced a sum for that purpose ; and this is quite consistent with his rigid profession of religion, and still more with his views of po* licy in conciliating the Presbyterians. Nothing of this kind, how- ever, appears in the town's recordk^ The sum said to have been received, betwixt L. 600 and L. 700, was of considerable magni- tude in these times, though perhaps not sufficient to cover the ex- pense of building the old church. Though it has nothing about it, to vie with the grand Gothic religious edifices of preceding ages, yet it is a fine old venerable structure, placed in a fine open retired situation behind the main street, surrounded with the town's burying-ground The walls are as substantial at this day, as when it was first built, and are likely to survive many later and more pretending edifices. It is constructed in the form of a cross, not unlike the old church of St John, the aisle to the north-west being a projection from the main body, in the middle of the east wall of which the pulpit stands, fronting the projecting wing. Though the walls and roof are perfectly sound and strong, yet, through the waste of time, the public have become alive to a variety of emendations, which it requires, and have lately employ- ed a competent architect in Edinburgh to survey it with this view. He, after a very favourable report as to the building, has furnish- ed a plan, we understand, which, if executed, will not only add to its internal accommodation and comfort, but also to its embellishment, both within and without This plan, to be carried fully into efiect, would cost a sum not much short of L. 1000. The funds of the burgh are not in a state to admit of much being given from that source ; but as the church is a very great favourite with the com- munity, and as a great part of the seats are private property, either belonging to public bodies or to wealthy individuals, it is probable that a sum may be raised by subscription adequate to effect, if not the whole of the projected improvements, at all events the most needful of them. For one thing, it is very inadequately lighted ; and, from the accumulation of extraneous matter in the churchyard, its floor is now considerably below the level of the surface without, which is apt to render it damp and disagreeable in wet weatlier* The seats, also, are getting old and rotten, and the passages re- quire to be relaid with flag stones. All this will be imperiously called for ere long, — not merely for improving its appearance, but from necessity, and in the view of real substantial utility. The 26 AYRSHIRE. New Church has cost the town a large sum, — little short pro-*' bably of L. 6000. The original cost was upwards of L. 4000 ; and some years ago the roof having been found insufficient, had to be renewed at a considerable additional expense. It was erected in 1810. It is a handsome enough building, both within and without, but suffers a miserable drawback in appearance as a church, on account of the want of a spire or tower. The Academy^ as a building, is plain and not very ornamental, but it is chaste, and in good taste, and fitted up with very conve- nient teaching rooms for the masters, and a large handsome hall for public meetings. It stands in an open space to the north-west of the town, and occupies a very healthy and eligible situation. A large handsome new Inn has lately been built in a very con- venient situation near the town's buildings, which the rising im- portance of the place very much required. From its standing on a line with the main street, it does not make a very showy appear- ance, but what is better, it answers the public purposes of its erec- tion. There is a spacious military barrack situated in an open level ground near the harbour ; and during the war, Ayr was always a military station. This building is capable of containing a regiment of infantry; but since the peace, it has been very little used, as sol- diers are seldom quartered here, and Government propose dispos- ing of it for some other purpose. Burrufs Monument — This splendid monument stands on a rather commanding and tasteful position, on the summit of the east bank of the river Doon, near Alloway Kirk, the bank risingabove the stream, with a pretty bold acclivity, ornamented on its brow by an orchard, and the shrubbery that surrounds the building. It is situated at nearly an equal distance betwixt the Kirk and the Atdd Brig^ having the road to M aybole across the new bridge, passing it in an oblique di- rection. It consists of a triangular base, rising to the height of 16 or 18 feet from the ground, built of very massive materials, rough and nistic'in appearance. These are intended to represent the three divisions of the county, having a face to each of the districts — Kyle, 10s. and the compounding with the landed proprietors for the redemption of the multuret must have produced, besides, a considerable sum, amount- ing probably to several thousands. Mr Oswald's lands, for instance, were redeemed for L. 600; Rozelle for L. 500; Castlehill for L.300; Sessionfield for L. 75, and so on in proportion. The town, from this, can have no cause to grudge any expense it is put to^r benefit of clergy. 38 ATRSHIRB. AUoway Kirk. — This ^^ auld haunted biggin'," the scene of the most talented of the poems of Burns, is an exceedingly plain old ruin, and not deserving of notice but for the celebrity which ^* Tarn o*Shanter^* has attached to it It consists of two bare walls, one storey in height, with triangular gable ends ; in one of which, the old Kirk Bell still remains suspended. The date of its erection is uncertain, but the old walls are still entire, and in a state of good preservation ; so much so, that it might still have been used as a place of worship. At the time of the junction of the parish with Ayr, the stipend was so small as to be incapable of supporting a minister, amounting only to 600 merks Scots, and without any means of augmentation, the teinds having been all exhausted. The above sum is divided equally betwixt the two Ayr ministers ; and the glebe, which is of no more than the legal extent, was given to the minister of the second charge. This glebe, however, upwards of seventy years ago, was sold to the magistrates of the burgh, with the sanction of the Presbytery, for L. 3, 6s. 8d. annually, which was then considered a fair eqifivalent. It now yields between Lfe 4 and L. 5 per acre, and is attached at present to the estate of Doonholm, so much has the value of land risen since that time. The minister of AUoway appears to have had also a manse, but no traces of it now remain. As to the old ruin of the kirk, there is little to be said in the way of description. One who had never deen it, in reading the vivid painting of scenery in connection with it by the poet, is apt to figure it in his imagination as some ex«> tremely picturesque old sacred edifice, surrounded with trees, co- vering, with their dense gloomy shade, the comical yet frightful orgies that were a carrying on within its walls. It perhaps actu- ally did partake more of this character in the days of Bums, than it does at present, as the road from Ayr appears then to have run along the top of the bank of the river from the west, through the tall thick spreading plantation that grows in that direction. This is evident from the following lines : — <' When glimmering through the groaning trees Kirk AUoway seem'd in a bleexe» • • • A winnock bunker in the east There sat Auld Nick in shape o* beast.** Now the ^^ winnock bunker*' here mentioned is still to be seen in the eastern gable from the west, but it is totally out of view from the present road, where not a single tree intervenes in approach- ing the kirk from Ayr. And, besides, the cairn and Mungo*s well, referred to in the poem, are both of them to the west of the kirk. AYR. 39 The walls of the ruin, which formerly gave access to strangers into the interior, have now been shut up and formed into a burial- ground for the Cathcarts of Auchendrane and the Crawfords of Doonside.* The Moat of AUaway is a place of considerable antiquity, and evidently of artificial construction. It is still to be seen on the right hand side of the avenue leading to the House of Doonholm. The magistrates of Ayr appear from the records of the town to have frequently held courts of justice, for the trial of petty cases, ac- cording to their charter, on its summit, which was hollowed out in the middle like the crater of a volcano. This and the old tower of St John's Church are the only distinct monuments of great antiquity now existing in the parish. The old cross^ which was removed in 1783, was a building, it is said, of some elegance, in the form of a hexagon. Coins of the reign of Charles II. having been found at its foundation, show it to have been erected in his reign. Roman Road. — The remains of the great Roman road, lead- ing from Galloway into Ayrshire, sire perfectly distinguishable, within a mile and a half of Ayr. These no one can have any diffi- culty in finding, who wishes to examine them. They lie to the south- west of Castlehill gardens, behind the gardener's house, extending from near the avenue to the mansion, to the bottom of the hill to the south-east, and up the adjoining hill, passing close by the farm-house of Breston. The features of this curious remnant of antiquity are distinctly marked, and can hardly be mistaken. We have seen also part of the same road in perfect preservation many years ago, in the neighbourhood of Dalmellington, bearing similar features. From this point, it appears to have run to the east of the River Doon, by the farms of Ponessan, Boreland, &c. on to near Cockhill, from which it had been continued in a straight line, past Castlehill, Forehill, and Fowlcauseway, to Ayr, which it entered by the ground opened for quarries at the head of the town, and ran along in the direction of what is now called Mill Street. In many parts of this course, distinct traces of it could be recognized till * So much did the mania for collecting relics of Burns at one time prevail, that when the old kirk vas open to visitors indiscriminately, in the course of a very few weeks, the whole of the old oak that remained attached to the walls was torn away, to be manufactured into snuff-boxes, which are now valued by their owners as almost beyond price. A very handsome chair of an antique form was also constructed of the aame wood, with the poem of Tarn o*Shanter engraven on brass plates on the back, and presented by Mr Auld to his late Majesty George IV. during his visit to Scotland, and very graciously received. Another of the same kind was likewise gifted to the late Earl of Eglinton, and may be seen in Eglinton Castle. 40 AYRSUiaE. within a few years back,* and there is reason to believe that, with- in little more than half a century ago, it formed the only road that was used for communication betwixt Ayr, and Galloway, and Dumfries-shire. Whether it was brought to Ayr, from its beii^ at that time a town, a sea-port, or a military station, appears uncertain, though one or other of these may probably have formed the motive. It is far from being likely that it was made to run in this direction, either for shortness or convenience, since both the nearest and most level line to the Clyde, after passing Dalmellington, would have been by Old Cumnock, Irvine, and Largs. Battk'-Fields. — On considering the above magnificent relic of Ra- man greatness, and other Roman antiquities that have been found in this parish, it appears evident that Ayr must have been a station of considerable importance, while the Romans held possession of the country. There are manifest indications that the whole of the lower part along the sea coast, from river to river, had been the scene of some great struggle in which the Romans and the natives of the island were combatants, and that probably in more than one conflict Throughout the whole of this space, Ro- man and British places of sepulture are found, with Roman ar- mour, swords, lances, daggers, and pieces of mail^ and brazen camp-vessels, intermixed with British urns of rude baked clay, hatchet and arrow heads, and other implements of warfare used by the Caledonians. One of the largest and most beautiful of these urns was found some years ago, near the banks of the Doon, among a collection of ancient bones, — > -" beneath the caim Where hunters found the murdered bairn." We have seen a very antique Tuscan-shaped pitcher, in possession of a gentleman in Ayr, that was found many years ago on the top of the rock in the Town head-quarry, thirty or forty feet under the present surface of the ground, along with a kettle that has since been lost What is somewhat remarkable, the pitcher when found was filled with sea shells, and has the appearance of having been glazed, which has been thought by some to militate against its claims to a Roman origin. We believe, however, it has been pretty clearly ascertained that the Romans were well acquainted * Those who wish further information on the subject, may consult Cha1mcra*s Ca- ledonia, Vol. iii. Ayrshire. AYR. 41 with the art of glazing. The above quarry lies along the line, as we have said, in which the old Roman road must have passed, and a reUc of this kind so &r under ground, unless it had been placed there by some contingency beyond the usual course of tilings, carries along with it some plausible reasons for believing it of an^ dent manufacture. At or near this place also, was the sit^ of the famous Bams of Ayr, But we have not been left entirely to uncertain conjecture, or vague tradition, with respect to some great conflicts having taken place in this parish in ancient times, both betwixt the Romans and the natives of the country, and with the latter amongst themselves. Having been led to make some investigation into the subject, we have found some light thrown upon it, by the follovdng autho- rities : Spottiswoode, in his history, relates that '^ in the year 360, Maximus, a Roman Prefect, excited the Picts to enter into alliance with him against the Scots, and that the Romans and Picts encountered the Scots at the Water ofDoan in Carrick. The Scots were routed, and thus King Eugenius, and most of his nobility were slain." That a great battle was also fought in this locality, betwixt the Britons and the Scots and Picts united, is as- serted by HoUingshed, Boethius, and Buchanan. The first of these represents the Silures, as inhabiting the region now known by the name of Ayrshire, and states that *' Coilus, King of the Bri- tons, having assembled an army, entered the Scottish borders lying towards the Irish Sea, wasting with fire and sword whatever he found in his way, till he came to the river Dtme^ where he encamp- ed on the banks." Boethius says, evidently in reference to the same invasion, that while Coilus was King of the Britons, the Scots and Picts attacked him, ^^ ad ripam amnis Dunae," the Scots in front, while the Picts came upon him from behind, during night. *^ Dum Coilus ipse servaretur incautius a suis, oppressus occubuit, loci nomen Coilum ad posteros relinquens." Buchanan, in his His- tory of Scotland, gives a more detailed account of this battle than either of these. Lib. 4th, cap. 4. To retaliate a hostile in- cursion, he relates of King Coilus, ^* Britto-Scottorum fines ingres- sus, ad Dunum usque amnem penetravit, &c After narrating other particulars, he thus concludes his account. ^^ Eductis copiis Scoti a fronte, Picti a tergo invasuri, ad hostem ante lucem i)erveniunt, &c. Cecidit cum parte majore suorum Coilus: ipse regionem in quapug^ natum est, de suo nomine celebrem fecit." There is a tradition 42 AYRSHIRE. Still existing in this district, that after some great battle, two Kings, Coilus and Fergus, gave their names, the former to Coil and Coyl- ton, the latter to Loch Fergus^ and Mount Fergus in this parish, local tradition assigns the site of the battle to the parish of Dal- rymple, which is not in any degree probable. The armies on both sides must have been numerous, since according to Buchanan, Coilus could easily spare five thousand men to be placed in am« buscade, and the narrow vale of the Doon, in the above parish, could a£ford no eligible ground for such a conflict On the other hand, the lower part of this parish flanked by its two rivers, with the sea in front, and the undulating ground behind, even at the present day, could yield to no other locality in point of advanta- geous battle ground. Besides, the expression on the banks of the Doon towards the Irish Seoj is suflBcient to settle the point, as the Irish Sea could only mean the Bay of Ayr ^ — not then known by that name, and being a continuation of the Irish Sea. CromwelTs Fort. — Oliver Cromwell seems to have had two ob- jects in view, by the erection of the citadel now called the Fort. In the ^st place, he intended it to serve as a military station for a large body of troops, to overawe and defend the west and south of Scotland; and, secondly^ he wished by its means to secure the command of the town and harbour of Ayr, both at that time of more importance, from the state of the times, than they are at pre* sent In correspondence with these objects, the citadel itself was both capacious and strongly fortified. As we have seen no account given of it in any other work, and as it is an object of considerable interest as connected with the antiquities of Ayr, we shall conclude our notices on this subject by a short description of its plan and construction, which we are enabled to present from the notes of a friend who has examined it for us minutely, and who is a compe- tent judge of works of this kind. The area within the walls, which on three sides are yet entire, is about twelve acres in extent The ground plan is a hexagon, with bastions at the angles, but the fi- gure is not regular, the two sides facing the sea and the town be- ing much longer than any of the others. The situation is between the town and the mouth of the river, and the strongest works front the latter. The main bastion, occupymg the north-eastern angle, close upon the harbour, and next the town, commands the entire circuit of the fortifications, the river, and the town itself. It has still an elevation above the water of forty-five feet, and is suppos- ed to occupy the site of the ancient palace and castle of Ayr, built AYR. 43 by William the Lion* The sides of this bastion, like those of the other four, which are yet to be traced, vary from 120 to 135 feet in lengfth, and their angles are regular, according to the system of fortiBcation now in use. Proceeding parallel to the riyer, along the rampart, but on a plane about fifteen feet lower, we arrive at a second bastion, con- nected with the former by a curtain 237 feet in length. The works now trend towards the west, and a second curtain, 266 feet long, conducts to a third bastion. These appear to have formed the main part of the fortifications, and have been erected with great care and at very considerable expense. The rampart is everywhere faced on the outside with a wall, strongly and exceedingly well built, of hewn-stone, inclined at the proper angles, and entire. The whole is sustained on arches, which have formed convenient securities for garrison stores and provisions. The breadth of the rampart is in this place 120 feet The works now sweep almost directly west, running parallel to the sea-line, and, when first exe- cuted, had occupied the whole of the dry ground on this side. Though the sea has now retired to a considerable distance, leav- ing a fine sandy beach, yet some of the oldest inhabitants remem- ber when the walls here were washed by the tide at high-water. This seaward curtain is 512 feet long; and though the rampart continues of the same height, viz. about 20 or 25 feet above the level of the sands, yet it has been narrow and without arches, hav- ing been composed of solid earth, faced with the same solid ma- sonry as already described. At the termination of this sea-wall, and joining the western angle of the fortification, is a fourth bas- tion, which, though smaller than the others, has been constructed with equal care and skill. From its position near to what must have been formerly the mouth of the river Doon, which we have already attempted to prove, this point must have been very strong. A curtain, 272 feet, running nearly south, conducts to a fifth bas- tion; but here the original rampait can no longer be traced, though the garden-walls of the adjacent houses are built upon its foundations, and clearly show its position. The sixth and last bas- tion has occupied the southern angle of the fort, but of this no part now remains. A long curtain and deep broad ditch had form- ed the principal defences towards the town, joining the south to the eastern bastion, whence we started in this descriptive circuit of the fortifications. Of this side of the citadel, the only remains are the hollow of the ditch, and the gate of the front wall. The lat- 44 AYRSHIRE. ter is a round-headed arch, with some heavy but not inelegant mouldings, surmounted by a square recess, in which once stood the arms of the Commonwealth of England. The interior of the fort- ress has been a large open space, of an oblong square shape, oc- cupied with barracks for the military, and other buildings, and the Church of St John, and its tower, which had been converted into an armoury and guard-room, thus literally becoming a church mi- litant The stones of which the fort was built were brought all the way from Ardrossan, by water carriage, and the whole cost so large a sum that, when reported to Cromwell, he is said to have . asked if it had been built of silver. As the whole must in process of time disappear, we are glad of this opportunity of recording what remains at the present day, as a monutiient and memorial of a period so remarkable in the history of Britain. III. — Population. At the time of the Rebellion in 1745, the population is said to have been only about 2000 ; when the last Statistical Account of the parish was published in 1791, it was 4100; and the last census in 1831 fixes it at 7606. Since the Government cen- sus, a further state of the population was taken in 1836, in order to make returns to the Royal Commission appointed to inquire into the want of religious instruction in Scotland, when the amount was found to be 7475, making a decrease of 131. But this might easily be accounted for, from the great mortality that took place in Ayr, in consequence of the disease of cholera, in 1832, which swept away a great many of the inhabitants. The population of the town within the toll-bars in 1836, was 6240, of which 2963 were under twelve years of age ; and that of the coun- try part of the parish, was 1235. The number of families amount- ed to 1647, making four and a little more than a-half the average number of each family. There is a considerable number of gen- tlemen of independent fortune residing in the town and neighbour- hood, as many resort thither for the sake of education for their children at the Academy, and to enjoy the advantages of the agree- able society of the place. A good many of this class have made fortunes in India, and in other places, both at home and abroad. The number of landed proprietors of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, amounts to 12, — their rentals varying from that sum to L. 2500. The following is a state of the number of births, mar- riages, and deaths for the last six years, since the last census was published. AYR. 45 Years. Marriages. Births. Deaths. 1831, 87 150 158 1892, 60 171 260. Year of the cholera. 1833, 79 134 118 1834, 78 154 178 1835, 70 144 174 1836, 89 115 163 From the above details^ it will appear that Ayr is progressing in point of population ; though slowly, yet as steadily as most other towns in Scotland of the same rank, where the increase is not dependent on contingent or temporary causes, such as manufactories and other extensive public works. It has little of this kind to depend on, for 'its prosperity. The produce of mechanical labour in very few ar- ticles exceeds, and in many falls short, of the consumption of the inhabitants. Hence the population is mostly indigenous, with the exception of some families of Irish labourers of the poorer class, who have been induced to become resident here, as in most other towns in the west of Scotland, from no strong tempta- tions as to remunerative employment, but because any change whatever from their miserable condition in their own country was likely to be a change for the better. Those of the natives, how- ever, with whom they mingle in the same station, have little cause to thank them for settling among them, not only as they keep down the price of labour by competition, and curtail the chances of em- ployment, but because they have tended in no small degree to demo- ralize their characters, and to undo the sturdy feelings of indepen- dence, for which Scotchmen, until of late, had been so much dis- tinguished, by inducing them to become claimants and sharers alike with them in public charities, in which they think they have a bet- ter right to participate than strangers. Character. — In exhibiting an estimate of the character of our population, it may be as well to begin with the lowest class, — those in a state of pauperism, or bordering upon it ; and here we .are oompelled to acknowledge that they have been greatly deteriorat- ed of late years, both in their civil and moral condition, from the cause we have noticed above. There are few places where the poor are better attended to and provided for than in Ayr, and they know this full well. Practical benevolence to the needy and distressed is a leading characteristic of the inhabitants, and one of the fruits of this has been, that numerous charitable bequests, mortifications, and institutions, exist for mitigating or removing in one shape or other the evils of poverty. These, however, have in some respects had an opposite effect from that designed, as they 46 AYRSHIRE. have tended to increase the number of applicants and expectants^ and to induce the needy to seek to establish a legal residence in the parish solely on their account The management of the poor's funds also, being under so numerous a body of directors, has pro- bably had the effect of creating in the community a more general interest in favour of the poor, than in most other places, and of obtaining for them a higher rate of aliment than they generally receive in any of the parishes around. Many of these directors are fluctuating ; they are apt to be guided more by impulses than by general rules ; and hence applications for aliment are decided on more by feeling, in some cases, than by expediency. Add to all this, that there is hardly a family in the higher or middling classes of society, that have not their set of dependents or hangers- on. for private bounty, that partake of what they can spare to re- lieve their wants and render them comfortable, and whom they are always earnest to recommend to public charities. Now all this ex- hibits both an amiable and a Christian spirit ; but the consequence of it has been, that one out of every iwenty»three of the population is a pauper, whereas in Glasgow, the proportion is one in every forty. It must be perfectly obvious, therefore, that such a state of things must have a tendency to deteriorate the civil and moral condition of the lower orders, by breaking down their feelings of independence, and thus by making them reiqiect themselves leas^ rendering them less respectable in the eyes of others. With these exceptions, however, it cannot be denied that the inhabitants of Ayr, in general, will bear to be compared with those of any other town in Scotland, in regard to those quali- ties that render a people happy, orderly, and respectable. They are attentive in general to religious duties, and are also steady and peaceable in their social and domestic conduct They have felt, no doubt, like those of other places, the fermentation and excite- ment occasioned by the agitation of questions of reform in Church and State; but these have never been carried the length of making them forget the ordinary proprieties of life. On the contrary, we rather think that any bitternesses thereby produced have been less marked here than elsewhere. There are few instances of open crime among even the lowest of the population, and it is certainly much to their credit that order is preserved, and property secure, without the protection of any regular system of police. The streets, and lanes, and suburbs, may be traversed at all hours of the night in perfect safety, and popular brawls and tumults are of very rare oc- AYR. 47 ourrence* The use of ardent spirits is still indulged in^ among the working-classes, to a greater extent than is beneficial to their health and morals ; but they are not in this respect worse than those of the Fame class in other places. A wish to maintain public de- cency seems to be felt by all, and the influence of public opinion is fully as operative here as elsewhere for the repression of vice, and the encouragement of social and personal virtue. Except among a few of the low Irish, a general desire prevails amon^ parents to have their children educated, and they enjoy opportunities for this purpose more ample than in most other towns, which put this blessing easily within the reach of the very poorest of the popula- tion. We confine these remarks chiefly to the lower orders of so- ciety, and we wish them to be understood as applicable in a very general way. Speaking of the inhabitants at large, we would say that they are rather of a gay and social temperament They are much given to hospitality and kindly fellowship with one another, and among the higher and middle ranks in particular, social intercourse is con- ducted with urbanity and easy politeness. Every thing like gross intemperance has been discarded. From the highest to the low- est, there is a natural propensity to press upwards ; this distin- guishes all sections of society ; it may appear a little more ridicu- lous in a provincial town than in the elite of the west end of Lon- don, or the fashionable saloons of Paris ; but still it emanates from the same all*pervading principle. The society in Ayr, taking it all in all, is as agreeable and well-regulated and as fashionable as can be met with, in any other county town. RaceSf S;c. — holds the lease of both, extending from the mouth of the Doon to the Pow Burn, beyond Prestwick. For two or three 52 AYRSHIRE. months after the season opens, he fishes only with drag*nets, in the rivers ; after which, stake-nets are erected, and ten or twelve men are constantly employed. The fish, besides supplying Ayr market, are sent to Glasgow, Edinburgh, and Carlisle, and some- times even to London. Poaching is occasionally detected, but it is not practised to any great extent. fVkite or Sea Fishinff. — Ayr is, at all times, supplied with abun- dance of excellent fish, there beingin the market sometimes no fewer than upwards of twelve varieties. Its port has been long the prin- cipal fishing station on the west coast ; but since the introduction of navigation, so many facilities have presented themselves for the con- veyance of fish to the great markets, from other points of the Frith of Clyde, and particularly from the Argyleshire coast, that many fishers have removed thither firom this place. The number of boats employed in the trade, at present, does not exceed one*half of what it was twenty years ago. Formerly, the whole Frith and all its lochs were tributary to the Ayr fishers, who carried much of the produce in wherries to Greenock and Glasgow. Now, how- ever, by the location of fishers on other parts of the coast, they are limited in their operations to Ayr and its vicinity, and to the supply of the Ayr market At present, there are only seven boats employed, with four men in each, and their attention is wholly di« rected to the fishing of cod, ling, haddocks, whitings, turbot, skate, flounders, mackarel, and herrings, for home consumption. All these kinds of fish are scarce in comparison to what they once were* This has been attributed by some to severe fishing, and by others to the comparative absence of herrings, which do not spawn on this west coast to the extent to which they did formerly. It is a well known fact, that wherever this fish is in abundance, cod, ling, and turbot^ which are never seen in some places except in company with them, arealsotobe had in great plenty. In former years, 120 stone of mis- cellaneous white fish have been often taken in a day, from the Frith of Clyde by one boat ; whereas 70 stone is now reckoned great fish- ing, and the average weight brought to Ayr, per day, may be stat- ed at 12 stone for each boat, during the best of the season, and 5 stone during the worst. Herrings and. mackarel are only got in season, during the summer months. In addition to the fish above-mentioned, soles, red gurnard, or gurnet, halibut, lai^ conger eels, &c. are occasionally taken and brought to market Among those found in the bay of no econo- mical importance are, the porpoise, miller's-thumb, fiddle-fish, sun-fish) pilot-fish, ink-fish, &c The grey gurnard is abundant. AYR. 63 but it is never taken for sale. Shell-fish of every kind are scarce. A few lobsters and crabs are caught in traps placed on the outside of sunk rocks, in the bay. The black rock, near the Troon, is a fa- vourite haunt for them, where they are occasionally taken. The mode of catching white fish followed here, is with long lines. Each boat works from 12 to 14 lines, each line having 1800 hooks suspended from it, at the distance of an ell from each other. The bait used for small fish is mussel, from about J^ammas t,ill April, and a worm dug from sandy shores, left dry at ebb tide, call- ed lug, during the remaining part of the year. The bait used for large fish is herrings and small whitings, which are both taken in preference to haddocks and other small fish. The lines for small fish are all shot or laid in before day-break, and immediate- ly thereafter taken up. In fishing cod, &c. in deep water, lines may be shot in day-light Turbot is chiefly fished with nets, and it is not many years since it began to be fished at all, or was known to exist in the bay. Next to salmon, this fish is now the favourite for dinner parties. Manufactures. — It has often been a matter of surprise, that Ayr has not been more benefited by manufactures and public works, — possessing as, it does, so many advantages for this purpose, and such facilities of communication with other places both by sea and land. With such an extensive grain country surrounding it, dis- tilleries could not &il to thrive ; the price of labour is low rated, and all|the other requisites are easily procurable. Cotton works might prosper as well here as at Catrine, the town being as favourably situated in regard to all the materials necessary, — coal, water, and labourers in abundance ; while it has greatly the ad- vantage, by enjoying the means of sea as well as of land carriage. And we can see nothing to hinder the manufacture of wool in its various branches, particularly in the weaving of carpets, from suc- ceeding as well in this place as in Kilmarnock, which owes to this cause so much of its wealth and prosperity. Carpets. — We are glad to have it in our power to bring for- ward to view one instance of successful enterprise in the ma- nufacturing line in this town, and to hold it up as an example of what might be done, on a more extensive scale, with every prospect of the hi^piest results, both as regards the investment of money, and the extension of employment among our operative population. We allude to the large and thriving establishment of Mr Templeton, for the spinning of wool and the manufacture, of carpets ; and we mention it thus particularly, because it is the 54 AYRSHIRE. only experiment of the kind that has yet been made by any of our townsmen. This work, from a very trifling commencement, with a few hands employed for the spinning of cotton into yarn, and a fly-wheel moved by a single individual, has grown up in the course of time to be an extensive and complicated manufactory, in which thousands of pounds have been invested with a large remunerative return, and upwards of a hundred workers of different kinds are constantly employed. But this is not all. So successful and en- couraging has the speculation been, that it is about to be nearly doubled in all its details. A large and spacious addition to the buildings has already been contracted for, and will speedily be erected ; an additional steam engine of forty horse power has been ordered ; and nearly a hundred more hands will be required to the establishment, in its various departments. The hours of labour and other matters are regulated by the late Act of Parliament in regard to manufactories. The carpet- weavers are employed from twelve to fourteen hours a day, and being all paid by the piece, they can earn about L. 2 in three weeks. A brother of the proprietor of this work carries on a manufactory at what is called the Dutch Mill on the.Doon, near Burns' monument, for carding, spinning, and weaving wool into plaiding or blankets, in which about 30 hands are employed in and out of the mill. The machinery is all wrought by water. This also is a thriving concern, and has been greatly increased during the last few years. Other Produce. — Unfortunately, there are hardly any other ma- nufactures belonging to the town or parish, worthy of notice. Shoe- making was carried on to a great extent during the war, but it is now greatly reduced. There is one tradesman who still does a good deal of business in the export trade in this way, chiefly to the British colonies. He employs betwixt 80 and 100 tradesmen, but his orders are mostly from export dealers in Glasgow. There are about 200 shoemakers in the town, and upwards of that number, probably 250, of hand-loom weavers, who work to orders from manufacturing towns at a distance. In tanning and currying, there is also a little business done, and about 20 workmen employed in three separate establishments. The raw material manufactured amounts to a few thousand hides and skins annually, which are dis- posed of mostly in Ayr, Kilmarnock, and Glasgow. The periods of labour are from eight to ten hours in winter, and from ten to twelve hours in summer, and the remunerative return for the capital thus employed is believed to be encouraging. The flowering and point- AYR, 55 ing of muslin is carried on to a great extent, by agents commission- ed from Glasgow, and has proved a great blessing to many fe- males in this community. About 300 in this parish are thus em- ployed, who earn from 4d. to 2s. per day. There are nine incor- porated trades in Ayr, but, with the exception of those above no- ticed, the produce of their mechanical labour is chiefly confined to the consumption of our own population.* A^/r Harbour, — The harbour of Ayr appears to have been a port for shipping, of as old standingasthe town itself. At a very early pe- riod of Scotch history, mention is made of ships having been built here, by several of the Kings of Scotland ; and in the time of Buch- anan, it is described in his history, as ^' Emporium non iffnobile," A serious drawback, however, to its position as a port is formed by a bar at its mouth, occasioned by the deposit of alluvial matter brought down by the river during floods, as has been already noticed. Much has been done, and a great deal of money expended, to lessen this obstruction, for its entire removal is probably impracticable. Some years ago, a wall of from 20. to 25 feet in height, 8 or 9 feet broad at the top, and probably three times as much at the base, was carried out into the sea, to the extent of upwards of 300 yards on the south side, and more recently another new wall or pier, pa- rallel to the other, was constructed on the north side at consider- able expense. And it is intended, we understand, to erect a break- water still further out than either of these, at the mouth of the en- trance into the harbour, according to a plan furnished by an en- gineer of competent skill in such matters.'!' This, if finished, as pro- jected, will, it is said, cost about L. 4000. Ordinary spring-tides are from 13 to 14 feet of water, and within the bar there is space to contain 80 sail. The number of vessels belonging to the port is 18, and the amount of tonnage is 2459. The following is a state of the income and expenditure for 1836: Tonnage dues on vessels, - - L. 688 5 7 on goods, . - 193 9 8 Crane duesj fines, &c. - - 19 18 2 L. 901 13 5 Expenditure, - . 1677 13 Excess of expenditure, - . L. 675 19 7 * We bad prepared for this head a short Account of the patent tlip in the wood- yard of Messrs Cowan and Sloan ; but it is omitted in consequence of our being re- minded, that as being placed on the other side of the river, though the proprietors and many of the workmen reside herei it more properly belongs to tlie parish of New* ton-upon-Ayr. f Since the above was written, the wo^k has been begun. 56 AYRSHIRE. Thifl excess of the expenditure above the income during the last year was occasioned by laige repairs on the quay walls, &c Amount ofcfebt pievioiu to 1896, L. 976 7 Increave oTdeM in 1896, - 675 19 7 Total amount ofdebt at butaudit in Noyemberl8S6,X>. 1652 6 7. An open cash-account is kept with the Ayrshire Banking Com- pany for L. 2000. The number of vessels cleared at Ayr for 1836 was 739 ; tonnage 62,730, not including steam -boats* The ordi- nary expenditure of the harbour amounts to about L. 300 annually, including salaries to office-bearers, the expense of the light-house, and of cleaning and dredging the river. Several Acts of Parlia- ment have been obtained for regulating and improving the port of Ayr. A new one was passed in 1835, superseding the former, and is that which is now in operation. It vests the management in twenty- four trustees, namely, the provost, two bailies, treasurer^ and dean of guild, six councillors, seven shipowners, one member of the Sailor's Society, one from the Merchant's Company, the convener of the trades, the senior bailie of Newton, and two of New- ton councillors. By this act, the trustees are authorized to charge for all goods landed or shipped at the quays, 4d. per ton, and ^ per barreL The present dues on vessels are chaiged as follows : Tonage. Ton, Anchorage, Under 20 tons, 2d. under 20, Is. Od. 20 under 40 dd. 20 to 40, 1 6 40 under 80 d^d. 40 to 60, 2 80 and upwards, 8d. 60 to 80, 2 6 Vessels in baUast, 2d. 80 to 100, 3 100 to 150, 4 150 to 200, 5 •boTe 200, 7 Twopence per ton for all goods shipped per crane. Trade of the Harbour.^^ About sixteen vessels arrive annually, from foreign ports, with cargoes consisting of hemp, mats, tal- low, tar, iron, pitch, timber, &;c. From twelve to seventeen sail to foreign countries with cargoes of coals, cordage, leather, cot- ton and woollen goods, &c. There are about 300 vessels, coasiwaysy that arrive here from other parts of the United King* dom, laden with corn, groceries, haberdasheries, hardware, iron, lead, and other general traffick. The quantity of com brought into harbour last year was as follows: — Barley, 318 quarters; beans, 643 do.; peas, 51 do.; oats, 11,145 do.; oatmeal, 5623 cwt«; wheat-flour, 306 do.; wheat, 3136 quarters. About 1100 vessels, coastways, have sailed from Ayr to other parts of the united kingdom, during the last year, with cargoes con^pttn^of coals, corn, wool, and other general goods. The quantity of coals AYR. 57 shipped amounted to betwixt 50,000 and 60,000 tons ; and of grain as follows: — Barley, 84 quarters; beans, 188 do. ; oats, 87 do. ; wheat, 5571 do. ; patmeal, 3178 cwt$ wheat-flour,' 5586 do. Sheriff'Caurt of Ayr. — The business of the law constitutes a leading profession here. There are twenty-one resident practis- ing procurators, besides writers belonging to other towns in the county, who have a right to practise. There is, perhaps, no pro- vincial law court in Scotland in which business is conducted more expeditiously, or less expense is incurred by unnecessary delay in obtaining legal dec'isions, than in the sheriff-court of Ayr. If cases are unduly protracted, the fault must be with the law agents, not with the sheriffs ; but hardly any complaint of this kind has grounds for existence. The ordinary court where cases are conducted by written pleadings, is held every Tuesday during session. The winter session commences at the latest on the 15th day of October, or first ordinary court day thereafter, and continues until the 4th of April inclusive, except during the Christmas recess, which is not longer than three weeks. The summer session begins on the first court day, after the 15th of May, and continues until the last court day in July. During the vacations, two days are appointed on which papers may be received in process. The number of cases insti- tuted before this court during the year 1834 was 431 ; in 1835, 473 ; in 1 836, 543. Of these, the number advocated to the Court of Session was, in 1834, 7; in 1835, 6; in 1836, 4. TTie Small Debt Courtj for the disposal of cases where the debt does not exceed Im 8, 6s. 8d. is held every Thursday, and parties are heard viva voce. The number of cases decided in 1834 was 1609; in 1835, 1408; in 1836, 1326. The number o( criminal cases tried before the sheriff and a jury during the year 1834 was 16; in 1835, 25; in 1836, 20. The number of petty criminal cases where the punishment concluded for does not exceed sixty days imprisonment, that were tried before the sheriff during the . above periods was, in 1834, 126; in 1835, 88; in 1836, 100. There is also a Commissary Court held every week during ses- sion, when business requires it, in which the sheriffs are also judges, the ordinary presiding judge being the sheriff-substitute. There are no separate salaries belonging to it, and the only expenses in- curred are to the clerk of the court, and the agents employed. There is also a Burgh Criminal Courts in which the magistrates preside, as cases happen to come before them ; and a Justice of Peace Court is held every Monday morning, for adjusting of debts under L. 5, and the trial of minor offences. 58 AYRSHIRE. Banks. — In 1763, a bank was instituted by John M^Adam and Company ; but it was soon superseded by the extensive and ad- Yenturous establishment known over the whole of Scotland, by the name of Douglas, Heron, and Company. This bank commenced in 1769, under a numerous copartnery, who did business to a prodi- gious extent In consequence of the uUra-liberality of the credit they allowed, the wide range of their dealings, and their capital be- ing mostly founded in landed property, which could not be render- ed promptly available, the stability of the house was soon shaken, and at last overturned, and it ended in a bankruptcy as extensively ruinous as any speculation of the kind, perhaps, that has ever occur- red in the country. Its failure happened in 1772, only three years after its commencement It is generally allowed, however, that, by the liberal credit which they allowed for the encouragement of commercial and agricultural speculations, they did an immense deal of good to industrial enterprise in the way of trade and manufac- tures, and particularly in the improvement of landed property. It is pretty well understood that both the resources they supplied, and the failure of these resources, were equally the means of giving a stimulus to the cultivation of the soil, and the introduction of an im- proved mode of husbandry over the whole of this western district In consequence of so extensive a bankruptcy, many landed estates fell into the hands of new proprietors, who adopted at the same time a change for the better in their mode of management This bank was succeeded by that of Messrs Hunters and Company, which has existed ever since. By avoiding the error of its predecessor, and steering a prudent medium betwixt rashness and over-caution, it has turned out a very prosperous concern to all who have been connected with it, and as secure and respectable an establishment as any other of the kind in our provincial towns. In 1775, a branch of the Bank of Scotland was instituted in Ayr, but it has never been very extensive in its dealings, and is less so now than ever, in consequence of the greater competition in the line that has started up of late. It is, however, highly respectable, both as re- gards its agents and the nature of its transactions. A few years ago, a new banking establishment was commenced under the name of the Ayrshire Banking Company, which has every appearance, from the branches belonging to it in the county, of doing business to a considerable extent It is supported by a numerous copartnery, and seems to be conducted in a very spirited manner. There is also a branch of the Glasgow Union Bank here, so that, with these 3 AYR. 59 four establishments, there is no want of the sinews of commercial and industrial enterprise. Sailors' Society. — This association was instituted so far back as the year 1 581, for the benefit of decayed mariners, and their widows and children after their death. Its records extend to the date of its commencement, and to a person capable of decyphering the an- tiquated style of handwriting in which they are set down, they might afford much curious and useful information illustrative of t*he manners of the times, and the local history of the burgh. To ren- der them intelligible, however, is fully as difficult a task as to trans-- late from a dead language. We have had the privilege of perusing some extracts from them in modern penmanship, made by one of the members now living, who had been at considerable pains in penetrating into their contents. The following incident will be deemed interesting. In the year 1647, during the prevalence of a destructive plague or pestilence, a meeting of the members of the society, specially convened, took place, in which, after mentioning the names of those present, amounting to a goodly congregation, it is thus recorded : " The above-named persons, after serious invo- cation of the name of God, publicly by the minister, they apart by themselves in the choir of the church, (John Osborne beginning with prayer,) ilk person of them stood up on his feet, and one after another, made particular confession of his sins and wickedness, be- fore the Majesty of the Great God, and in presence o/ the people then assembled, and did before each of them, their confession with prayer, entreating his Majesty to pardon their bygone offences, and that he would, for Christ's sake, arrest this present plague of pesti- lence, quilk every man in particular acknowledged his sins to be the cause of." Among a long list of sins thus confessed, and minutely recorded, we find some charging themselves with being guilty of a strong inclination, in their travels, after the idolatrous worship of the mass, and declaring that *^ the first thing that made them quat it, was the swearing of the covenant in this land." .Others are repre- sented as being guilty of unlawful gain, by alluring and carrying off children to the West Indies, from which it would appear that this was a crime sometimes practised by mariners at that time. Among other irregularities, are confessed with great contrition, swearing, blasphemy, drunkenness, incontinence, &c. particularly when ab- sent from home, and in foreign parts. It would be strange, at the present day, to find members of the sailors' or any other society acting a similar part, and putting individually their secret sins uport record. 60 AYRSHIRE. Another circumstance of considerable interest in the records of this society, is a detail of the expense incurred in building the gal- lery in the old church, now known by the name of the Sailors' Loft. There is a circumstantial account of all the items of the costs incurred, — ^timber, iron, stone for the pillars, wages, drink to the workmen, &c, amounting in all to L. 717, Ss. 2d. Scots, or L. 59, 15s. Sd. Sterling. This is dated in May 1655 — the year following that when the old church was built ; and the measure appears to have been entered into in consequence of an act of the town-council authorizing it, and making OTor to them the right of property in the lofL From this we would infer, that the three galleries, claimed and held by the sailors, merchants, and trades, were appropriated to these public bodies, in consequence of their being at the expense of fitting them up for their own use. This will be further corroborated by the notice we are about to give of the Merchant Company. If, then, Cromwell advanced a sum of money for building the church, as is generally asserted and be- lieved, it must have been laid out in the stone-work of the edi- - fice, and fitting up the remaining part of the interior; but the mat- ter is doubtful. The members of this society consist now of the most respectable and influential of the inhabitants. Its affairs are managed at present by twenty-two honorary members, who must be owners in part of a square-rigged vessel, and the entry money is Lb 5,— except to the eldest sons of members, who are only charged one guinea for admission. They receive no benefit, except a title to a seat in the front of the sailors' gallery, in the Old Church. The sum of L. 63, 4s. 6d. was divided last year among eighty pensioners. Formerly threepence per pound were charged on the wages of sailors belonging to the port ; but this has been discontinued, in consequence of another association called The Merchant Seamen^s Society^ being established by act of Parliament. Every attempt by the latter to unite the two has been resisted by the former, as there exists a pride in keeping up as a distinct body, so ancient and respectable a fraternity, connected with the port and trade of Ayr. Its only revenue now is, the admission money of entrants, the interest of L. II 00 in the hands of the town, L. 45 in Hunter and Company's bank, and L. J 2 annually, or upwards, of seat-rents in the sailors' loft. Merchanbf Company* — This Association claims its origin as far back as 1655, upwards of seventy years after the cmnmencement of the Sailors' Society. It was originally called the Merchant Booth Keepers of the Burgh of Ayr ^ — those who dealt in merchandize AYB. 61 in those days having been in the practice of doing their business in open booths, on the sides of the streets. The Company appears to have had, for many years, no definite object in view, and was constituted about the time of the building of the Old Church, (then styled the New Church,) — the contributing of the merchants to the fitting up of the gallery, which still bears their name, having led to its formation. It is not shewn from their record book, which dates as far back as this period, what was the amount of their con- tributions to this object, as in the case of the Sailors' Society, nor yet does it appear that at first they were at the expense of finishing the whole of the loft. The front seat, and the three or four rows of benches immediately behind it, are only mentioned as the pro- perty which they claimed in it. It is probable, however, that, in proportion as their funds increased, the whole gallery was in time fitted up by them, as it has long since become their exclusive pos- session. Their funds originally arose wholly out of the sums re- ceived as the entry money of members, and the sole privilege which the members enjoyed was a right to sittings in the front of the loft, the other seats being let indiscriminately at a certain rate for each sitting. The seat rent amounted originally to L. 6 Scots for a front seat, and L.d for back seats, to sons and sons-in- law of members, while strangers were chained 20 merks for the former, and 10 merks for the latter. The admission money of members rose by degrees at different periods to L. 1, lis. L. 2, L.2, 10s. L.d, L.d, 10s. L. 4, 4s. and finally, in 1818^ to L.6, 6s. Up to the above date, 1818^ although the funds had been pro- gressively increasing, the Company seem to have had no spe- cific object in view in their application, further than giving oc- casional aid to decayed members, and indigent widows of mem- bers deceased; which, however, was entirely gratuitous on the part of the Association, none having any claim to it as a matter of right. In 1819, however, a committee was appointed to form a scheme for the benefit of decayed members' widows and orphans, on a systematic plan, which scheme was adopted on their report in 1820, and put in operation. At this period, the capital of the company was L. 670, and in 1828, their funds had increased to L. 1140. At present they amount to L. 2000. Besides the re- veniie arising from the admission-money of entrants, and the year* ly contributions of the members, there was the annual produce of the seat rents in their loft in the church, which was considerably increased, after it was repaired two or three years ago. It is need- less to mention here the regulations of the company. It is now 62 AYRSHIRE. coDstituted on a principle somewhat similar to that of insurance upon lives, whereby, on paying a certain fixed rate of entry money, varying according to the age of the entrant, and that of his wife, and an yearly payment afterwards, the widows of deceased mem- bers are entitled to an annuity for life, or while they remain un- married, and their children also to an yearly allowance, till they reach a certain age. It may be stated generally, that the entry- money is L. 6, 6s. for a person aged twenty years, rising gradually till it reaches Lb 10, 10s., that being the sum exacted from an en- trant of forty years of age. The annual contribution is L. 1, Is. to be doubled for the first five years after admission ; and the an- nuity is L. 10. The company form a corporate body, by a seal of cause from the magistrates and council, but they enjoy no exclu- sive privileges, either mercantile or political. None formerly were eligible to be members of it, unless they were burgesses and guild- brethren, but this restriction has lately, we believe, been set aside, and so has also the allowance before granted to decayed members. Incorporated Trades. — There are nine incorporated trades in Ayr, viz. the squaremen, hammermen, tailors, skinpers, coopers, weavers, shoemakers, dyers, and fleshers. The most numerous of these are the squaremen, as they include masons, wrights, slaters, and glaziers. They have all separate royal charters of incorpora- tion, with the exception of the coopers and dyers, who had only a seal of cause from the magistrates, and they all claim the privileges granted to the craftsmen of Scotland, by the charter of Queen Mary in 1564. They possess the exclusive right of carrying on their separate trades or manufactures within the burgh ; but this confers no great privilege, as the right does not extend to the other side of the river, where competition with them may exist without their control. The chief advantage that they receive arises from the aid afforded from their funds to their widows, or to members them* selves, when rendered destitute by sickness or old age. The funds of some of the trades are considerable, and they are derived prin- cipally from the entrance-money of members. They are mostly vested in heritable security, and some of them possess valuable property of their own. One of the galleries in the Old Church, which is called by their name, belongs to the incorporated trades, from which, it would appear, that, like the Sailors' Society, and Merchants' Company, they also had been at the expense of fitting up a loft for themselves, at the time when the church was erected. This loft has lately been thoroughly repaired and new seated at AYR. 63 their joint expense, and a large handsome window, with an edging of stained glass, opened up at the west end, which has a fine effect. The front seat is allotted to the convener, and the deacons of the different incorporations, and formerly the benches behind were filled with tradesmen and their apprentices indiscriminately. This, to strangers, had rather a novel appearance, by exhibiting a dense congregated mass of men, without any mixture of females. Since the gallery has been repaired, however, one-half of it has been formed into pews, and let to tradesmen and their families at an annual seat rent, which assimilates it more to the portions occu- pied by other parts of the congregation. The other half is appro- priated, as before, to tradesmen, journeymen, and apprentices, who choose to sit there. Several of the trades have separate widows' funds of their own, which it is optional on the members to enter or not, as they may feel inclined, and the annual payments vary from Is. to 88. The ulterior benefits derived from them, of course, bear a similar proportion. The convener's board of deacons are respec- tively chosen by the corporations, and have a general superintend- ence of what concerns them as a united body, each retaining the separate management of its own affairs. Writer^ Society. — This association was called originally " The Fraternity of Procurators in Ayr ;" but the period when it com- menced cannot now be ascertained. Its records extend no further back than 1710; but that it was in existence before that time, these records themselves seem evidently to intimate. It then con- sisted of eight or ten members ; and its object was, to provide a fund for the relief of their wives and children after their decease, and also for themselves in case of indigence. So far back as the record-book extends, the dues of admission were five merks from each apprentice to one of the fraternity, and ten pounds Scots on his admission as a member, while those who had not served with one of the society, paid one hundred merks Scots, the entry-money being the same in both cases. In 1710, the funds of the society amounted to only one hundred merks, and, along with the interest^ were disposed of firom- time to time, according to the pleasure of the members, there being no definite object in view. But in the year 1772, the funds having accumulated to L. 243, 18s. lid. Sterling, it was agreed that each member should make an annual contribution of a guinea, besides other small occasional payments, so as to enable the society to give .a reasonable annuity to the wives and children of deceased members. The annuity was fixed 64 AYRSHIRE. at L. 10 Sterling, and continued so till the year 1818. Id con« sequence of this annuity, the admission dues were raised to L. 5, to be paid by those who should serve with members, and to L. 15 to such as should be apprenticed elsewhere. At the same time, the entry-money was made to consist of two rates, which were raised progressively, first, to L. 20 and L. 40 ; second, to L. 25 and L. 45 ; and, third, to L. 40 and L. 80. Besides this and the annual contribution of a guinea, it was agreed that each mem- ber who wished to augment the annuity to the extent of Ia 20 above the ordinary rate, should contribute L. 1, 10s. for five years in addition to his annual payments, and this to commence in 1818. In 1820, it was resolved to admit none into the so- ciety but such as had served their apprenticeship with members residing in Ayr, and the entry-money was then fixed to be L. 54» lOs.^ and the annuities to be L. 50 after 1825. Owing, however, to the interest of money having fallen, and the unexampled num- ber of widows who had become a burden on the funds, the an- nuity has qever been more than L. 40, but it is continued to chil- dren till they be eighteen years of age. There are at present twenty-four members belonging to the society, but five of these do not reside in Ayr, and four do not practise before the Sheriff- court Their funds in 1886 amounted to L. 7434, 68. 2id. ; but there were no fewer than eleven widows deriving annuities, and one decayed member, who receives L. 20 yearly. Three of the widows get L. 10 each annually, their husbands having died pre- vious to 1818, and the other eight receive the balance of the in- terest and the contributions, the society having resolved in no case to encroach on the capital. The annuity to decayed members is now abolished. There was, till of late, a sinking fiind of L. 50 a- year ; but that is at present suspended, till the existing burdens be diminished. The admission dues are fixed at two guineas at the commencement of apprenticeship, or, in lieu thereof, five gui- neas on becoming a member, --besides L. 78 of entry-money, and one guinea of annual contribution. Ayrshire Horticultural and Agricultural jSoct^fy.— ^This society, which at first was only horticultural, was formed in 1815 ; and its object was to promote and encourage horticulture, in all its branches, throughout the county. It consisted of about sixty members, and was under the management of a president, vice* preses, and six counsellors. . The late Earl of Eglinton was the first president and patron of the institution. At the .annual com« 1 AYR. C5 petitions, prizes were awarded for the best specimens of fruits, flowers, and vegetables, and for several years the society was con- ducted with gseat spirit, and proved highly conducive to the object for which it was formed. There is a library, which was com- menced in 1824, consisting of books on horticulture, botany, na- tural history, &c ; and at this period it contains about a hundred volumes. In the year 1831, there was a splendid exhibition, on a large scale, of all the productions of the vegetable kingdom that useful and ornamental gardening could furnish, — specimens of these, both rich and rare, having been brought forward from dif- ferent parts of the county, by practical gardeners and amateurs. This interesting show was among the first of the kind in Scotland, and was the means of gaining high repute to the institution, and of procuring for it many additional members. In 1832, the as- sociation united with it most of the agriculturists of the district, and from this period took the name of " TTie Ayrshire Harticvl'- tural and Agricultural Society^* and six additional councillors were added to the former number. In 1833 and 1834, there were ex- hibitions of all sorts of produce belonging to the two branches of the institution. It seems to be conducted in a spirited manner, and cannot fail to be useful, by exciting emulation, and a more intimate communion among two most respectable classes, closely allied to each other in their professional pursuits. Ayr Medical Association, — A Society under the above designa- tion has existed among medical practitioners since 1830, for mutual instruction and professional communication. It consists of almost the whole of the gentlemen belonging to the profession in the town, and of several in other parts of the county. Each of the members contributes one sovereign annually to the funds which are expended in the purchase of books and journals, chiefly of a professional character. Thus the periodical medical literature of Britain, and of foreign countries, and works of merit which are from time to time issued from the press on subjects connected with the profession, are in constant circulation among the mem- bers. This renders the association the more useful, as such pro- ductions could not be so conveniently procured otherwise, not being admissible into libraries intended for general readers. The books are kept at present at the Dispensary rooms, where all the mem- bers can easily avail themselves of them. We take this oppor- tunity of paying a well-marked tribute of respect to the medical AYR £ 66 AYRSHIRE. gentlemen of Ayr. They are about a dozen in number, and they are not less distinguished as a body for their disinterested huma- nity to the poor, than they are for urbanity of manners, and lite- rary and professional attainments. V. — Parochial Economy. Internal Communication. — Ayr is the only town in the parish, and there is no collection of houses in the country district, of such extent as even to deserve the name of village. But there is no provincial town that enjoys more amply the means and facilities of communication with other places, both by sea and land. There are regular packets and traders from the harbour, to Liverpool, Glas- gow, Dublin, &C. at all times of the year ; and in summer, steam- boats sail betwixt this and Glasgow every day, communicat- ing with the other towns along the coast A steam-boat sails also every Saturday to Stranraer, touching at Ayr, and returns on the Monday following, thereby affording the means of conveyance to and from Ireland. There are arrivals of the mail from London once, and from Glasgow and Edinburgh twice, every day, and depart- ures as often, and a mail-coach has lately been started from Glas- gow for Ireland, through Ayr, which affords a great convenience to the whole of this western district A traveller has it in his power to go from this to Edinburgh by coach, at five different times every lawful day, and to arrive in A^r from the east by near- ly as many opportunities. An Edinburgh coach runs daily by Loudon hill, Strathaven, &c. thus opening up adistrict of country with which there was formerly little communication. There are also coaches twice a-week or oftener, to all the inland towns in the district, of any note, Irvine, Maybole, Girvan, Cumnock, and Dal- mellington ; and through the last, there is a regular stage-coach thrice every week to Dumfries during the summer months. The roads in the parish are kept in excellent order, as there is a su- perintendent with a liberal salary, appointed by the trustees to pre- serve them in proper condition. There is a plan going forward at present, to form a rail-road betwixt Ayr and Glasgow, and an- other betwixt Glasgow and Edinburgh, &c. which will render the means of conveyance still more expeditious and easy, both for pas- sengers and goods. The money necessary for this great and im- portant undertaking has been already subscribed in shares, and the sanction of Parliament is only wanted to commence the work, which will certainly tend in many ways to the advantage of Ayr, AYR. 67 as well as the county generally, both in the way of trade and tra* veiling.* Ecclesiastical State, — Ayr has been a collegiate charge since the days of Queen Mary, who made provision for a second minister. As to the junction of Alloway parish, there is almost nothing dis- tinctly known, in regard to the mode or the terms by which it was ef- fected ; there being little or nothing mentioned about it in the records of the town about that time, nor in those of the kirk-session. We have already stated that it took place about the end of the seven- teenth century, and that the stipend, amounting only to L. 32| with the teind all exhausted, was divided equally betwixt the two ministers of Ayr. llie glebe was annexed to the second charge, for no other reason that can be discovered, than that the first liv- ing had been previously provided with one. This glebe was feued along with the lands of Alloway, by the magistrates, with the con- sent of the presbytery, and yields only the yearly sum of L. 3, 6s. 8d« there having been no more than the statutory extent. No provi- sion seems to have been made, as in some other junctions of a simi- lar kind, for having divine service performed at Alloway, and indeed there was little cause, the distance from Ayr to where the old church stands being little more than two miles. The same rea- son as to distance, however, would apply still more forcibly as to the union of Monkton and Prestwick, when it was stipulated to have public worship performed at the latter place every third Sab- bath, though the distance betwixt them is scarcely a mile. But the case was very different with respect to Ayr, where the magis- trates were the only party having power in the matter ; whereas in the other case, there were different bodies to treat with. But, in feet, it is impossible to say whether there had been any thirg of this kind stipulated for or not, as the decree of annexation by the Court of Teinds has either been lost, or purposely withheld, since no such deed could ever be made forthcoming. We have heard that the Ayr ministers continued to preach in Alloway, every third Sabbath, for some time after the union of the parishes ; but whe- ther this was voluntary, or by positive stipulation, cannot now be ascertained. If the latter had been the case, it is not likely that the practice could have been so easily relinquished. For a long period after the junction, the old church of Ayr seems to have been perfectly adequate to accommodate the whole population of the * The Bill hu been passed by the House of CommoDs, and is now in progress through the Upper House, since the above was written. 68 AYRSHIRE. two parishes. But towards the end of the last century, the want of church room began to be seriously felt, there having been very few Dissenters in the place, and hardly any dissenting places of worship. Before the new church was built, the demand for sit- tings in the old church became so great, that a single pew would cost a sum that would be considered extravagant at the present day. What added to their value, and the difficulty of obtaining seat room was, that the galleries had become appropriated to dif- ferent corporations, to which they continue to belong at this day. Hence the demand for pews was such, in the disposable part of the church, that the most of them were purchased as private proper- ty by the more wealthy classes, and still continue to be so held. Accordingly, many who, from these causes, could not procure ac- commodation in their own parish church, were under the necessity of obtaining it in the church of Newton-upon- Ayr, or elsewhere ; to which they have mostly since adhered, when otherwise they would in all probability have continued to receive instruction from their own parish ministers. The magistrates committed two material errors in regard to the building of the new church, the consequences of which have continued to be seriously felt ever since. The Jirst was, their not having erected it at an earlier period, in order to supply timeovsly the existing wants of the people for seats, and thus prevent them from seeking them elsewhere. The second consisted in their not allowing or soliciting the proprietors of land to bear their share in the expense, which, it is said, they would willingly have done, in order to provide suitable church accommodation for their tenantry. Ayr, in this respect, differs from all other parishes in Scotland that have landed districts, and it is owing, perhaps, to the magistrates having been once the sole proprietors. Not a single tenant on any of the estates into which the parish has been now subdivided, can claim seats for himself and family, as belonging to his farm, and not a landlord has it in his power to serve his tenantry with seat room in the same church with himself, in return for the stipend which is paid to their parish ministers. There is thus a want of those most sacred of all ties betwixt them that can bind men to* gether, both as public bodies and as individuals. There is no lack of unoccupied seats in the new church ; they may be had by such as choose to pay for them; and yet, the proprietors of land, who cer- tainly have no disinclination to accommodate their farmers in this respect, are put out of the way of doing so, from having no right AYR. 69 of property in the building. In the old church, the seats are all let or nearly so, and in some parts belonging to incorporated bodies, which have been lately repaired, there are more demands for sittings than can be supplied. The attendance here is always numerous and respectable. It was built in 1654, and the new church in 1810. Both are capable of accommodating from 2000 to 2500 sitters, and there are about 1000 communicants or upwards at each sacrament, — this ordinance being dispensed twice a-year. There is no want of church accommodation at present in the pa- rish, and a considerable number of sittings have been set apart for the poor by the magistrates, some entirely gratisj and others at such low rates as to make them easily accessible to the most indi- gent. There is a meeting- house in this parish, belonging to the Relief body of Dissenters, another to the Moravians, and a third to the Methodists T.but the congregations of the two last are small, and that of the Relief is made up of people from six or eight parishes. There are various other Dissenters who have places of worship on the other side of the river, and numbers belonging to them in the parish of Ayr. The following tables, the result of a survey made in 1836, will exhibit in one distinct view, the population belonging to the Established Church, and also to the Dissenting denominations. No. 1. — Abstract of the Population, &c. &c. of the Royal Burgh of Ayr, within the Toll-bars— 1836. Population, Commuulcantt. Under 12, . . . 2903 Establishment, . . 1685 Establishment, . .. 4136 Other Denominations, . 910 Other denominations, . 2011 Sittingty 2444 Not knoi^n to belong to any deno- minations, . . 93 Having a right to sittings, . 2444 No. II. — Abstract of Population and Religious Denominations, with the number of individuals belonging to each, in the parish of Ayr— 1836. PoptiUition. Reformed Presbyterians, 60 Establishment, . 4968 United Secession Church, . 264 Other Denominations, . 2424 Associate Original Seceders, 286 Not Icnovn to belong to any deno- Relief, . . 1144 mination, . 93 Scottish Epis. Communion* 1 98 »■.• Roman Catholics, . 203 Total, . 747S Indepen. Congregational Union B9 Methodists, . 140 Moraviaris, . • 85 Universal ists, . 7 Baptists, . • . 1 Parish Churches of Ayr, 1794 Maybole, Newton, 251 St Evox, Dalrymple, 15 Kirkmichael, 2 70 AYRSHIRE. No. III. — Abstract of the number of Communicants belonging to the Establishment, in the parish of Ayr, and the parish churches in which they do co/nmunicate. 2 • .ad Total, . 2069 The stipend of the first charge consists of eight chalders and a-half, half meal, and half bear, and one-half chalder for com- munion elements. The incumbent has, besides, the half of the yearly interest of L. 1000, bequeathed to the two ministers of Ayr, by John Fergusson, Esq. of Doonholm, and the half of the sti- pend of Allowa^, amounting to L. 16 odds yearly. He has a com- fortable manse, which was built a few years ago, after a long and tedious litigation with the magistrates and heritors to obtain it, which cost a very large amount of expenses, and which was de- cided ultimately in his favour by the House of Lords. The sti- pend of the second minister is made up partly of the old stipend of the second charge, partly of a sum from the Government Bounty, and partly of an allowance from the magistrates for extra service, and the half of the above-mentioned bequest, together with L. 46, 13s. 4d. in lieu of a manse and glebe. The ordinary collections at the church doors amount to upwards of L. 100 an- nually; and the extraordinary, to nearly as much, including contri- butions made every winter for coals to the poor, and money re- ceived for them at the two sacraments. The ordinary collections are diminishing gradually every year, in consequence of the high rate of assessment There are a Bible, Missionary, Tract, Tem- perance, Sabbath School, and Female Benevolent Society in the town ; but the amount of their funds, individually or collectively, cannot easily be ascertained. We have occasional collections in the parish churches for objects of Christian benevolence, such as the General Assembly's Schools in the Highlands, the Church of Scotland Mission in India, and additional Church accommo- dation, which may increase our extraordinary collections to a larger sum annually than we have stated it above ; but the for- mer is regular, the latter only contingent. Our churches are both situated in the town, and are convenient enough for the great body of the people, though some miles distant from the furthest boun- dary of the parish. Education — Academy. — There are few places better provided with the means of education than Ayr. In 1798, the parochial AYR. 71 schools of the burgh were formed into an academy, and a charter obtained from the King, uniting the managers and directors into one body corporate, with power to enact laws for their own re- gulation. What formed the germ of this institution was the sum of L. 1000, which was bequeathed for behoof of the pub- lic teachers of Ayr, by Mr Fergusson of Doonholm, already mentioned. A considerable sum additional was obtained by sub- scriptions from the town, the heritors, and Tarious wealthy indivi- duals in the county and elsewhere, every L. 50 constituting the contributor a director of the academy. By means of these sums, a handsome building was erected for teachers' apartments, and a fund formed for the payment of their salaries, and the sup- port of the seminary. Its success has fully equalled the most sanguine expectations that were formed of it. It has secured a re- putation not surpassed by that of any other institution of the kind in Scotland. The teaching department is conducted by a rector, and five other principal teachers, besides an assistant in the Eng- lish school The rector has a salary of L. 100 a year ; the other masters have small salaries, the highest not exceeding L. 22, and depend chiefly for their emoluments on fees from their pu- pils. These fees vary from five shillings to a guinea a quarter, but few of the branches taught exceed half a guinea, and the most common are only charged at the lowest rate we have named. The following is a list of the branches of education in the dif- ferent departments, viz. mathematics, natural philosophy, che- mistry, geography, natural history, English composition, modern languages, Latin and Greek, writing and drawing, arithmetic, - book-keeping, and navigation, and English, English grammar, and history. The numbers that attend the academy in the course of each year average about 500, and this average has continued pret- ty uniform for many years back, notwithstanding that similar in- stitutions have greatly increased throughout the country, and even in towns not far distant The teachers are gentlemen of distin- guished talents and attainments, — they live and act together in great harmony ; and the seminary, being under a liberal system of management, has generally continued, since its commencement, in a prosperous and efficient state. It has been of great benefit to the town in different ways, — ^for instance, by attracting families to reside in it for education, and by transfusing a spirit of intelli- gence and enlightened thinking among its inhabitants. There are about a dozen of other schools in the parish besides 72 AYRSHIRE. the Academy, at all of which the numbers taught yearly may amount to betwixt 600 and 700. The teachers of all of these, with the exception of Smith's Institution, depend entirely on school fees for their emolument, and chiefly the common branches of education are taught in them. There are also two private schools for the country part of the parish ; and none of the inha- bitants are so far distant from school as to be excluded from the benefit of education. There are few, if any, of the native popu** lation who cannot read ; and parents are attentive enough to have their children educated, with the exception, perhaps, as we have said, of some of the poorer class of Irish labourers, who have not been educated themselves, and who are in a very degraded state as to civilization. With the numbers, then, attending the Aca- demy and the other schools in the town, taken collectively, we have thus an average amount of upwards of 1 100 in the course of re- ceiving education from year to year, making a proportion of betwixt a sixth and a seventh part of the population, and, we presume, there are but few other parishes now in Scotland that can boast of a greater proportion. Libraries. — There are two circulating libraries in the town, one of which is conducted on rather an extensive and liberal scale, as there are admitted into it, not only novels, but also the more popular and fashionable productions of the day, besides the stan- dard periodical works. We have also a pretty extensive town li- brary, containing a very good selection of books of standard merit, amounting to 3000 volumes. The terms of admission, however, are too high to render it so generally useful as it niight have been to the inhabitants. Until of late, the fixed entry- money was L. 5. It is now reduced to L. 3, which is still too high a rate for laying it open to the public. The consequence has been, that the num- ber of its members, viz. 108, has remained nearly the same at this day as when it received its charter from the town in 1803. It was intended originally as a library for a select society of gentlemen, who commenced it so far back as 1762, and it has continued pretty much so ever since. We do not find fault with this, but with the bad policy of the system, and its having been so long shut up from more general access. Had the admission money been L. 1, in all probability it would have contained five or six times the amount of books that it does at present, besides being, to an equal extent, a greater public benefit. It would be easy to establish this by the history of other public 3 AYR. 73 libraries. This affords one instance among many, that when an institution sets out at first on a wrong principle, it is ex- ceedingly difficult afterwards to get it rectified. Newspapers. — There are two county newspapers published week- ly in Ayr ; the one on Thursday, the other on Tuesday. The Advertiser is of long standing, and of Whig politics; the Ob- server is Conservative, though conducted in a very moderate and judicious manner. They both appear to thrive, as they circulate over a very extensive and populous district, which contains a people much given to reading. — We have also a handsome well-lighted reading-room, where newspapers and periodicals* are to be found in abundance, suited to all tastes and opinions, and where the ut- most order and quietness are maintained. Mechanic^ InstitutioTU — The observation we lately made in re- gard to the town library has received a forcible exemplification from the progress of that of the mechanics. It was only instituted in 1825, and since that time it has been rapidly increasing, both in extent and utility. It contains already 2500 volumes of well- selected books, nearly as many as the other, and has from 150 to 200 members. These pay only six shillings a year each, thus forming a fund for the purchase of new publications, of upwards of L. 40 per annum. The library has been greatly augmented of late, by liberal donations from private individuals. Lectures on scientific subjects are occasionally delivered to the mechanics, and they probably would be continued in a more regular and systema- tic form, were it not for the want of a suitable lecture-room. We trust this may soon be found, for the benefit of this useful and re- spectable class of our fellow-townsmen, and the success of their very laudable institution. Charitable Institutions — Poor's House, — There is a poor's house or hospital jn the town, which was built in the year 1759, with sums contributed by the magistrates and other public bodies. It is stated in the last Statistical Account, that, at the time when it was built, it was capable of accommodating about sixty inmates, young and old. The number now admitted into it seldom exceeds twenty- five, and is commonly about twenty. These consist of persons not merely destitute, but entirely unable to take care of themselves, and who, but for this establishment, would require to be entrusted to the charge of nurses, at an expense additional to their aliment. Were it not on this account, it would be of little use to the town for behoof of the poor, as the latter prefer living in houses of their 74 ARYRSHIRE. own on a fixed rate of aliment, and every inmate in the house costs on an average 2s. 6d. per week, which exceeds the average allowance to out-door pensioners. There is a master and mistress, who have apartments provided for them in the institution, besides a fixed salary of Li.dO to the former, who act43 also as clerk to the directors; and L.20 to the latter, yearly. And a large un- occupied room, not now required for the poor, is used as a school at present, for the instruction of the children attending Smith's Institution, where the children of paupers are taught gratis. Management of the Poor. — The directors of this establishment (the poor's house) having now become the managers of the poor generally of the town and parish, it may be proper to explain brief- ly the nature of the constituency, and its mode of working, in or- der to enable strangers to form some idea as to how the poor are regulated and provided for in Ayr. At the time when the poor's house was built, and for a long time after, its directors, and the kirk-session, formed two separate bodies, each having a list of poor to provide for from different iunds. Those of the session were de- rived from the weekly church collections, the rent of the farm of Session-field, and the emoluments arising from some mortifications. Those of the poor's house • managers consisted of an annual con- tribution from the different corporate bodies which they represent- ed, and a small yearly assessment on the inhabitants. This mode of providing for the poor, by the agency of two distinct parties, came to be exceedingly inconvenient and liable to abuses, as it oflen happened that paupers received aliment from both, without the knowledge of either. Accordingly, about twenty years ago, in making some necessary reforms on the poor's house establish- ment, it was deemed expedient to unite both bodies, with their re- spective funds, under one common interest and system of manage- ment ; which was done by constituting the whole members of the kirk-session poor's house directors, and appointing a joint treasur- er to receive their united funds. The session, in addition to the two ministers, consists of upwards of twenty elders, who have each a district of the town allotted to his superintendence. The di- rectors of the poor's house, before the junction, consisted of nine from the town-council, eight from the incorporated trades, the sailors, merchants, and writers, sending three each, making in all twenty-six. To this number have been added, besides the session, all the landed proprietors of the parish whose rental yearly amounts to L.50 and upwards, of whom there are about twelve, — thus form- aVr. 75 ing a constituency in toto of about sixty members, to whom the management of the poor is entrusted. These hold their ordinary meetings once a quarter, to determine on applications from paupers, and transact any other business that may occur. There is besides a standing committee for conducting the minor details of business. A superintendent of poor with a fixed salary acts under the direc- tors, to investigate and report as to every petition for aliment, which must have the sanction and signature of the elder of the quarter to which the petitioner belongs, to scrutinize the claims of every pauper, to conduct the correspondence respecting doubtful or dis- puted cases, and to direct the officers employed in the suppression of begging. Poor's Funds. — The funds for the support of the poor are made up of the collections received at the two churches (after deducting the necessary expenses of the session,) the annual rent of the farm of Sessionfield, interest on mortifications, sixty-four bolls of meal, — the proceeds of a purchase made long ago by the magistrates, -and gifted to the poor^s house, — and a general assessment on the inhabi- tants, proportioned to their means. The meal above-mentioned is derived from certain lands on the estate of Fullarton, and arose out of the endowment granted by King Robert Bruce to the support of the hospital of Kincase or Kingscase, in the vicinity of Ayr, erected by him for the reception and cure of lepers, a disease which appears to have been prevalent in his time. After the cessation of the establishment, the endowment had fallen into the possession of the Wallaces of Craigie, and was purchased at a judicial sale by Mr Richard Campbell, writer in Edinburgh. By him it was sold with all its rights and perquisites to the magistrates of Ayr in 1786, for L. 300, with the royal charter and disposition in right thereof, and by them the meal was made over to the poor's house, — they, how- ever, securing to themselves in virtue of it, the privilege of nomi- nating a certain number of inmates to be supported in that institu- tion, or rather the purchase being coupled with this provision. The expenditure for the poor last year amounted to L. 1064, 7s. 8d. and the income to L. 1 100. The number of regular out- pensioners on the roll amounts to about 300, of whom by far the greater pro- portion consists of women and children. The allowance granted to each varies from 6d. to 3s. weekly. The disease of cholera was very severe while it lasted in this town, not only in regard to the numbers who fell victims to it, but in its effects afterwards, which are still felt at this day, because many were made widows and 4 ^6 AVfisHlRE. orphans, left destitute and helpless, and rendered a heavy bur- den on the parish. The expenses of the Board of Health, dur- ing its prevalence, amounted to L. 742, 3s. of which L. 165, Ids. were raised by subscription, and L. 576, 10s. by an extra assess- ment. In addition to this, the ordinary assessment for the year that followed was necessarily raised from L. 570 to L. 950, and al- though some reduction has taken place of this heavy burden, yet the directors have never been able, with their utmost efforts, to bring it back to any thing near to what it previously was. It may possibly be thought by some, from the system of directorship which we have exhibited above, that we have deviated too much from Scotch parochial simplicity in our management of the poor, and that the machinery is too complex to admit of vigorous efficiency. Whether it be so or not, we shall not take upon us to decide, but it is proper to mention, that all who have a share in this manage- ment are alike anxious to lessen the evil and the grievous burden which pauperism has entailed on this parish. The following state will exhibit in one view the progress of the assessment since the be- ginning of the present century ; and we shall mention only the years when any alteration took place. 1802, - L. 124 1808. - L. 250 1831, - L.670 1837, - L. 850 1803. - 120 181(i, - 275 1833, - 950 1806, - 1.50 1818, - 450 1834, - 650 1807, - 130 1827, - 470 1835, - 800 DispeTisary. — This very useful institution was formed in the year 1817, and it has proved a blessing to many thousands of the poor of the community, by administering medical advice and relief gratuitously to all labouring under disease, or requiring surgical aid, whose means could not enable them to pay the usual fees of a medical practitioner. In fact, it may be regarded as the most beneficial establishment of the place. Upwards of 500 yearly are enrolled on the list of its patients — every subscriber to the amount of 5s. annually being entitled to recommend one to participate of its benefits. It comprehends within its sphere the three parishes of Ayr, Newton, and Wallacetown, and it has been hitherto sup- ported wholly by voluntary contributions. The average expendi- ture amounts to more than L. 100 a-year, but this has as yet been met by the income arising from subscriptions and donations ; and so sensible are the community in general of its usefulness, that an extension of their liberality could doubtless be easily procured to supply any deficiency of fiinds. Five medical gentlemen in Ayr at present officiate as surgeons ; and the whole of the three parishes AYR. 77 have been divided into five districts, each taking the charge q( one of these in rotation for a year. Cow-pox inoculation is perform- ed at all times at the dispensary-house ; and such of the patients as cannot attend there are waited on at their own houses by the surgeon of their district. It is in contemplation to add to it a medical hospital, and a considerable sum has been subscribed for this purpose. It is hoped that, ere long, this intention may be realized. Smith's Institutioru — This is another of the very useful chari- table establishments of the town. The following is shortly its his- tory. About twenty years ago, a school was instituted for the edu- cation of poor children, according to the system of Bell and Lan- caster, and a list of annual contributors was obtained for its sup- port. A teacher was accordingly appointed, and the seminary throve as well as could have been expected. This, however, was superseded a few years ago by the bequest of a Captain Smith of this place, who, after leaving certain legacies, de- voted the residue of a small fortune, which he had acquired as a tiaariner, to the humane purpose of benefiting the poor of Ayr, by affording them the means of education to their children. As the provisions of his will to this effect embraced exactly the objects which the subscribers had in view by the Lancasterian school, the proceeds of the bequest, amounting to about L. 2000, were dedi- cated to the support of said school uuder a new name, viz. Smith's Institution^ and the former subscriptions were discontinued. The ma- . gistrates and ministers are appointed trustees ; and they meet once a quarter to inspect the school, and transact any business that may occur connected with it. The number of those constantly attending the seminary amounts to from 150 to 200, and of those who receive instruction in it in the course of the year, to about 250. Such as are unable to pay are admitted gratis. The rest pay at the rate of a penny a-week. The school, as we have said, is taught in the poor's-house ; but it is in contemplation to erect a separate build- ing in some convenient situation, for a teaching-room. There is also a School of Industry ^ for teaching young girls sew- ing and other simple qualifications, for fitting them to become use- ful domestic servants. About 50 of the poorer class are instruct- ed in this manner, many of whom are receiving their education at the same time at Smith's Institution ; and, we believe, the pro- duce of tiieir work is sufficient to support the school. Savings Bank, — In 1815. a Saving's Bank was instituted by a 78 AYRSHIRE. few iufluential gentlemen in this town, for the parishes of Ayr, Newton, and that populous district of St Quivox, named Wallace- town, which has now been erected into a separate parish by itself. The same plan was adopted as that laid down by the Rev. Dr Duncan, the original inventor, and the undertaking was brought to a successful issue by the indefatigable exertions of Mr Cowan, banker, then Provost of Ayr. A subscription was obtained of up- wards of L. 400, of which only two and a half per cent, was col- lected, to provide for expenses, and the remainder, which was never called for, stood over as a fund for the security of the establish- ment The subscribers only were made eligible as directors, and the depositors themselves have been excluded from all share in the management The bank is open once a week, viz. every Monday morning, to receive any sums that may be offered from Is. to L. 10. When the deposits reach this last sum, the contributor is obliged to withdraw his money and dispose of it elsewhere. The number of open accounts is at present 700, and the sum due by the bank is L. 3320. In 1822, there were only 358 open accounts, and the sum annually deposited continued, with little variation, at about L. 1100 per annum for twelve years, when, in 1828, there was an increase to L. 1 700 per annum of deposits, and of ninety additional open accounts.^ Since that period, the deposits and ac- count!^ stand as follows : Yeart, 1829, 1830, 1831, 1832, 1833, lau 1835, 1836, The total number of accounts opened since the commencement of this bank to this date is 3613, and the total amount of money paid in small sums is, L. 30,017, 14s. 3d., which may be regarded as an ex- cess of labour and of wages above what is required for the conveni- ences and necessaries of life. It is impossible to estimate to their full extent the great moral as well as temporal benefits that are calculat- ed to accrue to the labouring classes from such an institution as this, of which, as above, they appear to avail themselves so exten- sively. A great proportion of the depositors consists of apprentices and servant girls, who are thus inured to habits of economy, pru- dence, and foresight, while they lay up in store besides, a small fund, which they will find of incalculable advantage for their future Depotits. Accoimti. L.1844 524 16% 535 1.536 526 1533 511 1785 564 1738 559 2325 604 2686 684 AYR. 79 establishmeDt in life, either in the way of marriage or of trade. A person who carefully manages his savings in this way, will general- ly be found to stand aloof from those thoughtless follies and ex- cesses which prove hurtful to so many of the young, on their setting out in the world ; and he will run no great risk of falling into improvident indigence in old age, and thereby becoming a burden on his friends or the public We look upon savings banks as of far more advantage to the lower orders than benefit societies, as the latter often fall into decay from want of proper calculation of their resources, and the pressure of demands that are liable to be made upon them by coutingencies of sickness, against which they sometimes become unable to provide. The former, however, are as steady and secure as any regular bank, and the money sav- ed in this way is always available at pleasure. The interest allow- ed to money deposited in the Ayr savings bank, has varied at dif- ferent periods. The bank of Messrs Hunters and Co. in which it is lodged, allows one-half per cent, more than the current interest. Formerly it was at the rate of 6d. for every 12s.; lately, it has been reduced to 6d. for every L. 1, or two and a- half per cent annually. In 1820 its rules received the approval of the general sessions of the county of Ayr, in terms of the act of Parliament passed anent savings banks in Scotland, which entitled this bank to certain privileges. In terms of the act, they can lend their funds in bond without stamps, and are not subject to any ad- vertisement duty. The directors, however, have never as yet availed themselves of these privileges. Friendly Societies, — Various societies of this description have long existed here, and, notwithstanding the decay and dissolution of several, they still continue to keep their ground, and new ones start up as others disappear. The general principle on which they are all founded is, that every member, by contributing a small pittance of his earnings weekly, while in health and able to work, shall be entitled, during temporary sickness or old age, to have a fixed weekly allowance. This allowance is greater or smaller in different societies, according to the rate of their contributions ; but we fear there is something necessarily unfixed and liable to prove deceptive, as regards them all, in consequence of their be- ing so much dependent on circumstances that are, and always must be, contingent. Insurance upon lives can be reduced to a pretty accurate standard, by calculations on mortality on a large scale, but it is quite a different thing to form a fixed and ac- 80 AYRSHIRE. curate estimate in regard to temporary disease on a small scale, its extent of prevalence, and length of duration. Let us take as instances the disease of cholera and that of influenza, whose wide- spreading ravages over the whole community will long be remem- bered ; — though the latter is not to be compared to the former in point of destructiveness, yet, as being more recent, it is at pre- sent more impressive. Who could possibly foresee the prevalence of these, or form any calculation as to their eflects, and yet the stability of friendly societies depends much on such contingencies. If their funds are large, and well economized by a continuance of general good health among the members, they may be able to keep their ground, but this would hardly be possible with limited re- sources, and a great proportion of the contributors reduced to the necessity of requiring weekly aliment Accordingly, such seasons of pressure have, from time to time, upset numbers; but that they are not so fluctuating as might be supposed, may be seen from the following list of those now existing for the parishes of Ayr, New- ton, and Wallacetown, exhibiting the dates of their commencement, and the sums they have respectively disbursed. Name. Origin. Duibursed. Name. Origin. IMabursetk Mutual Support, 1796, L. 1261 Hand in Hand, 1817, L. 523 Friendly, 1803, . 1856 Generous, 1821, . 904 Philanthropic, 1805, Caledonian, 1807, Caledonian Youth, 1809, Harmonious, 1811, Friendship, 1817, Unanimous, 1817, There are also several Female Societies in Ayr, conducted on the same principle, and among the rest we may notice that called Lady CrawforcTs, of long standing, and which has done a great deal of good among indigent females. It derived its name from the Ooun- tess of Crawford, by whom it was instituted. Since 1805 the total sum paid in was - L. 1923 19 10 Total paid out to sick members, • - L. 1741 4 Total expense of management, . - 82 4 7 Sum in the bank, - - - - 100 11 3 1459 Self-supporting, 1824, . 659 1226 PhcEuix, 1827, . 719 957 Protector, 1830, . 207 1886 Reform Friendly, 1833, 153 990 The Relief, 1836, . 8 930 L. 1923 19 10 The society consists partly of honorary and partly of general members, — the former paying a small sum yearly without any prospect of a return, — the latter so much per quarter, and receiv- ing a certain allowance weekly in sickness or old age. One member was on the funds betwixt fifteen and sixteen years, and received L. 120, Is. 6d. Had it not been for the charity of certain influential persons, it probably would have been long ere now extinct There AYR. 8 1 is another Female Friendly Society in the town, of the manage- ment of which several respectable ladies take a charge, who endea- vour to render it as safe and useful as possible : it is conducted in a mode similar to the above. Charitable Bequests. — We have already said that AyrTibounds, above most other places, in posthumous benefactions to the poor, and this, the following list of charities of this description will am- ply testify. Ist^ The first in point of importance as well as extent we have noticed under another head, namely, the sum of fully L. 2(M)0 bequeathed by Captain Smith, for the education of poor children, and which is applied to the support of Smith's school. 2if, The late Mr Paterson of Ayr, who made a large fortune in the West Indies, left the sum of L. 500 to Glasgow Infirmary, and, in virtue of this bequest, conferred upon Ayr kirk-session the important privilege of having four patients belonging to the parish constantly on the listsof that useful establishment. d(f, A Mr Smith, aldermanof Londonderry in 1692, bequeathed to the poorof the town of Ayr, his native place, L. 100, to be placed under the management of the magistrates and kirk-session, and this sum having been vested in land in the vicinity of the burgh, has come to be of great value in feus, and yields a revenue yearly of L. 55, which is divided about New- Year's day, apart from the poor's funds of the parish. 4th, A Mr James Dick of this place, a few years ago, left L. 900, the interest of which to be distributed by the same managers, in a mode exactly similar to that of Alderman Smith's charity, and the two are generally divided simultaneously. 5/A, Sir Robert Blackwood, mer- chant in Edinburgh, but a native of Ayr, in the year 1711, left the farm of Rodingroiod, now called Sessionfield, consisting of up- wards of 100 acres, to the guardianship of the ministers and kirk-session of this parish, for behoof of the poor, and the annual rent to be distributed every year to poor householders, in the same, way as the two former bequests. 6^A, In 1811, Lady John Camp- bell bequeathed, by will, the sum of L. 1200, the interest of which to be given to poor childless widows belonging to the parishes of Ayr and Monkton, under the charge of their respective sessions, and, by a subsequent deed, two-thirds of the proceeds are to be ap- portioned to Ayr. This bequest does not come into operation till after the death of a lady who now enjoys it in liferent. Ith, The same is the case with respect to another bequest of L. 1000, made a few years ago, by Mrs Crawford of Ardmillan, in favour of re- duced females who had seen better days, and whose delicacy would AYR. F 82 AYRSHIRE. not permit them to let their wants \>e publicly known. The ma«* gistrates and council are appointed joint trustees with the session, but the latter are to have the disbursement of it 8^A, In 1831, Captain Robert Tennant, a residenter in Ayr, left L. 300, un- der the guardianship of the ministers and session, the interest of which to be applied for behoof of the Poor's House. 9tky Miss Ballantine, of Castlehill, bequeathed, at her death, a short time ago, the sum of L. 1000, or the interest of such a sum as shall yield L. 5 a-year to ten poor females of the parish, appointing the magistrates, ministers^ the Sheriff-substitute of the county, and the rector of the academy, to be the trustees and patrons. lO^A, and finally, John Fergusson, Esq. of Doonholm, already mentioned, not only bequeathed L. 1000 for the benefit of the ministers, and an- other for that of the teachers; he also left L. 1000 for behoof of the poor of Ayr, the interest of which is paid yearly to the treasurer of the Poor's House. Besides the above, the interests of several smaller bequests of from L. 300 to L. 100 each, are at present held dur- ing life by poor female householders of the place, under the direc- torships generally, of the magistrates and ministers, each vacancy being filled up as it occurs by the death of the former holder. We may add to ail this^ that about 300 of the poor or upwards are sup- plied every winter with a cart of coals each, provided by a collec- tion at the two churches, the proceeds of which, by use and wont, and the steady benevolence of the community, may be counted on as regularly as those of any of the bequests above-mentioned. Further^ the elder of every district of the town has a discretionary power to advance small sums of money, by orders on the treasurer, in cases of temporary exigency that may occur, such orders being submitted to the directors at each quarterly meeting, and these in the course of each year amount to betwixt L. 40 and L. 50, in ad- dition to the stated weekly aliment of the paupers. And over and abov€j the directors themselves, at their stated meetings, award small temporary grants, in the way of money, shoes, clothes, rent, &c to an amount, perhaps, nearly as large, to ward off craved addi- tions to aliment already fixed, or prevent applicants from being put for the first time upon the poor's roll. Now, when all the above state- ments are considered, and viewed in connexion with the annual pa- rochial provision for the poor by regular aliment, amounting to up- wards of L. 1000, it surely cannot fail to be admitted that charity is dispensed in Ayr with no niggardly hand. AYR. 83 Ayr GaoL — The prison was built at the same time with the county buildings already described ; and in its construction every attention has been paid to the security of the prisoners, while its situation is remarkably favourable to their health, as it stands on a large open space by the sea-beach. Within the last twelve- months, an entire change has been effected with respect to the treatment and discipline of the criminals confined. We may class them all under the designation of criminals, there being none at present confined for debt. The debtor's wing is now appropriated to female culprits. Formerly, the prisoners were allowed to spend the day together — the males in one common apartment or day- room, and the females in another, in total idleness ; wherein, by in- tercommunion of evil speech and depraved passions, they were ren- dered more wicked and profligate than ever, and incarceration made them worse, instead of reforming them. The younger culprits, too, were thus initiated into all the mystery and artifice of crime, by those who had been accustomed to follow it as a trade. Now, however, all this is happily at an end. Each prisoner is confined to a separate cell, and all are kept at hard labour for twelve or fourteen hours a day, without having any opportunity of seeing one another, even at their meals, which they receive alone at the pe- riods prescribed. The prison is visited by the keeper, and the prisoners are set to work at six o'clock in the morning ; and it is regularly shut at eight every night fpr rest, and agadnst the admis- sion of visitors. The prisoners are compelled to wash once every day ; and their apartments are kept regularly clean and well-aired. Such of them as have not learned any trade are generally taught weav- ing, which they soon learn if young, and if old, they are employed in teasing old ship ropes into shreds, called ooAtim, which is used by ship-builders as wadding for closing the interstices of vessels. None are allowed to remain idle. A regular account is kept of their earn- ings, and the expense of their diet ; and on leaving gaol, if they have behaved well, the balance in their favour is given to them as a reward, but at the discretion of the prisoii committee, on the report of the keeper. A chaplain attends the male prisoners, in their separate cells, three times a-week, where he passes a portion of time in communicating religious instruction, and joining in a short prayer ; and each is furnished with a Bible. Such of them as cannot read, he puts in the way of learning to do so, and aids them in their attempts. In short, the whole system is under most excel- 84 AYRSHIRE. lent regulation, and we are enabled to say so confidently, and to give the above details from personal inspection. It is visited weekly by a small committee of the gaol directors, who undertake this duty in rotation, and generally record a written report in a book kept for the purpose, as to the state in which matters are found The two impor- tant objects of incarceration seem to be fully accomplished in this gaol, namely, reformation and punishment combined. As the du- ties of the chaplain are most important, it would be desirable that he were made strictly responsible, not to the magistrates merely but to the county, and had a'more liberal remuneration allowed. We have been the more minute in describing this amelioration in prison-discipline, as it is most important to the public, who, we believe, have been much indebted for the change to Mr Charles Fergusson, Younger of Kilkerran, and Mr Archibald Hamilton at Rozelle — gentlemen as eminent for their personal worth, as for their spirited exertions for the public good. Commitments for the last three months, ending January 18S7, 60 Remained in gaolin Ootober 1896, .... 22 Prisoners in aU, Liberated daring the three months, • ... 66 Remaining in gaol in January last, of these 13 were males, 3 females', 16 Average number of criminal prisoners daily, • . 172^ Greatest number at one time during last three months, 29 Smallest number during three months, ending January, 13 At present in prison, 16 males, 6 females, ... 21 The average proportion of female to male prisoners is scarcely one-third. The prevailing crime of the former is thefl, — that of the latter theft or assault The number of commitments seems to be decreasing, and no capital convictions have taken place at our Circuit Courts for many years past. Fairs, Spirit^hopSf Fuel. — There are four fairs held in Ayr in the course of the year, and two market-days weekly, viz. Tues- day and Friday. The number of licensed spirit-retailers is 106, or one to about every 70 or 80 of the population. Coal for fuel is to be got in abundance, of good quality, and at no great dis- tance, but it is rather high priced, costing from 1 Is. to 14s. per ton^ including carting. Concluding Remarks. Ayr has undergone great and important ameliorations since the last Statistical Account was published, and if it go on improving in the same ratio for the next thirty years, it is impossible to estimate the degree of comparative importance to which it may arrive among AVR. 85 the other provincial towns of Scotland. There are two material amendments which it obviously admits of and requires. We would recommend, ^r«/, a rigid and uncompromising revision of the whole system of management of the poor. The amount of money an- nually expended for their support, besides being beyond all due bounds, as compared with other parishes, and entailing a heavy burden on the community, is tending every year to the increase of pauperism, and, what is worse, to injure materially the civil and moral condition of those who are verging on this state. ' We would suggest a scrupulous inquiry as to how far the numerous charities and mortifications with which the town abounds, might be made in some way available for the support of the poor, instead of being entirely supplementary, as at present, to their parochial aliment. Another beneficial change, that would add greatly to the prospe- rity of Ayr, is the introduction, to a greater extent, of manufactures and other public works. There is no want of capital, nor yet of enterprise, for this purpose, and only a few examples of successful speculation in this way are all that is required to stimulate their practical application. The projected rail-road betwixt Ayr and Glasgow will doubtless give an impetus to trade and industrial enterprise every way, and effect improvements of every kind be- yond what it is possible at present to foresee or calculate. July 1837. Drawn up hy the Rev. Alexander CuthUU one of the Ministers of Ayr. PARISH OF NEWTON-UPON-AYR PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JAMES STEVENSON, A. M. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History, Name, Boundariesy ifc, — The name of this parish is evidently derived from its situation on the banks of the Ayr, and the town's being founded at a later period than the adjacent county town. In the charters granted to the burgh, it is called Nova villa super Air, and sometimes Nova villa de Air. The same name was given originally to the town of Ayr ; but when another town arose on the north side of the river, the name became appropriated to it, as be^ ing the more modern. The parish is of very small extent : being only a mile and a half in length, and a mile in its greatest breadth. It is bounded on the north by the parish of Prestwick ; on the east by the pa- rishes of St Quivox and Wallacetown ; on the south by the river Ayr, separating it from the town and parish of Ayr ; and on the west by the Frith of Clyde. The figure of the parish is oblong ; being broadest about the middle, and narrowing at the northern and southern extremities. It is level throughout its whole extent, without any eminence to diversify the landscape. The whole length of the parish is washed by the Frith of Clyde. The coast is flat and sandy, terminating, however, at the north-west comer of the parish in an inconsiderable rocky point, which projects a little way into the sea. Meteorology. — A daily register of the winds having been kept for a long period at Cowan and Sloan's Office, agent for Lloyd's, we are enabled to present the following table of them for the years 1820, 1825, 1830, 1835, and 1836. We content ourselves with giving the annual results for the four former years ; but subjoin the prevailing winds for each month of 1836 :— NEWTON-UPON-AYR. 87 N. Directions of the wind. N. E. E. S. E. S- S, W, W. N.W. 1820, S5 29 36 37 36 80 76 38 182ft, 21 17 33 34 51 72 82 55 1830, 16 23 48 SO 39 97 58 53 1835, 12 13 49 45 12 105 80 49 Mean, 21 tM.5 41.5 36.5 1836 ■ • 34.5 88.5 73.75 4I U5 N. N. E. E. S. . E. S. S. W. W. N . W. January, "o 6 4 12 3 6 February, 1 1 7 2 12 4 2 March, 2 1 4 , 4 12 8 April, 4 1 4 1 1 11 5 3 May, 5 9 8 I 1 4 1 2 June, 2 4 2 7 13 2 July, 1 2 12 14 2 August, 1 2 2 1 14 8 3 September, 1 6 •6 1 3 6 4 5 October, 2 3 1 4 1 12 3 5 November, 1 3 I 3 8 8 6 December, 2 7 6 I 6 7 2 18 82 46 31 43 26 13 107 Unfortunately no register of the height of the barometer has been kept since 1820. Its average height is given during the se- veral months of that and the two preceding years : I8ia 1819. 1820. January, 29.2 29.85 30.1 February, 29.8 29.85 30.2 March, 29.7 29.95 30.15 April, 29.65 29.85 30.2 May, 30.5 30.15 29.9 June, 30.35 30.1 30.2 July, 30.25 30.3 30.2 August, 30.25 29.05 30.05 September, 29.45 30.15 30.15 October, 29.85 30.15 29.9 November, 29.65 30.05 29.9 December, 30.05 30. 30.2 Annual average, 29.88 29.95 30.09 It will be seen from the above tables, that the prevailing winds are the west and south-west ; and it may be remarked in general, that the westerly winds are warm and moist, and the easterly dry and cold. The heaviest gales are from the south-west, west, and north-west. The climate is mild when compared with that of the east coast; and, as might be inferred from the situation of the pa- rish, the temperature is more equal throughout the year than that of the inland districts, — the sea-breeze moderating the heat of summer and the cold of winter. On this account it forms a desi- rable residence for the invalid, who may suffer from either extreme^ 88 AYRSHIRE. The air is pure and bracing ; and there are few places where the blessing of health is enjoyed in a greater degree. No disease can be said more particularly to prevail, and many of the inhabitants attain to a good old age. Geology and Mineraloffy. — The whole parish is covered, imme*' diately below the soil, with beds of sand and gravel ; and beneath these, is a bed of clay, interspersed with . numerous water- worn stones, chiefly of augite-greenstono. On the surface of the clay, there are numerous boulder-stones of considerable size, which are also for the most part of the same rock* Be- low these beds of sand, gravel, and clay, are found those stra- tified rocks, known by the name of coal measures. The direction of the dip is to the north, and of course the rise is to the south. With these coal measures there is associated, at the southern boundary of the parish, a bed of trap-rock, more than twenty feet in thickness ; and about 1000 yards north from the river, there is found, immediately subjacent to it, a thin bed of coal, which it has entirely reduced to a very hard cinder. But between this point and the river, the trap suddenly changes its position, and is found on the top of a second bed of coal ten fathoms lower than the other, which has, in consequence, also been destroyed. This second coal is the uppermost of the liwo workable seams of coal known in this neighbourhood : and it is only in the situation now mentioned, that it has been found destroyed by the trap. It should also be noticed, that betwixt the northern and southern parts of the parish, there is a separation of the minerals by a slip or shift of the strata, which casts them up about sixty fathoms in the northern or dip direction. Each of the two workable beds of coal contained in the mineral field is nearly four feet in thickness. The upper is a soft coal : the second is very hard, and of the description called splint coaL The distance between the two beds is about twenty six fathoms, and the intervening strata are alternations of bituminous or aluminous shale and sandstone. But the uppermost of the two beds of coal is not found in the northern part of the parish, having been thrown out by the great shift of the strata already mentioned. The working of coal was formerly carried on to a great extent in this parish, and during a period of sixty years. At one time the profits of the freemen of the burgh from this source amounted to more than L. 300 per annum. But in 1832, the pits were closed : both seams of coal being then exhausted. Trials have been made at different times to discover, by boring, other beds of NEWTON-UPON-AYR. 89 coal below these seams; but although the boring was carried down in one instance to the depth of fifty fathoms beyond the low- est of the wrought seams, no bed of coal of sufficient thickness to admit of its being worked could be found : and the bore terminated in alternate layers of greenstone and redstone. There are at present no workings of minerals in the parish, with the exception of a sandstone or freestone quarry at its northern ex- tremity, which, although not long opened, is believed to contain a freestone bed of great thickness, and promises to afford a large sup- ply of building materials. On removing the sand and gravel from the surface of the rock, with which it is covered to the depth of fifteen feet, there were found numerous bones of animals and decayed pieces of wood ; and in one spot, close upon the freestone, a copper coin of the reign of Charles the Second, which, as the quarry is about 200 yards from high* water mark, seems to prove that there has been a progressive advancement of the coast upon the sea. There is one exception, however, to this remark, as applied to this parish, which must not be left unnoticed. While the land towards the north appears to be gaining on the sea, the sea, on the other band, has of late years been rapidly encroaching on the coast at the other end of the parish, immediately behind the harbour. This has been ascribed to the pier's being carried &rther out on the other side of the river than it has yet been on this side ; a supposition which is rendered the more probable by the circum- stance, that, while the sea is making encroachments on the north side of the river, it is proportionably receding on the south side. But whatever be the cause, several acres of land behind the pier in this parish, on which a row of houses stood within the last ten or twelve years, have been overflowed by the sea, and are now within high-water mark : so that it has even been' in contempla- tion to raise a mound along the shore to prevent the sea from further gaining on the town. As the surface of the greater part of the parish was originally a bed of barren sand, the soil naturally partakes of that character. It is now, however, in a rapid course of improvement ; and it has been improved, in many cases, by the admixture of a blue shale or till, of which great quantities were thrown out during the working of the coal-mines. Zoology — JRwAw.— Of these, great numbers are caught by the fishermen of this parish, and not less^than thirty different species have been reckoned up, which are commonly or^occasionaliy sold and used for food. The most valuable of these are the turbot. 90 AYRSHIRE. the sole, the halibut, and the shrimp. The most abundant are the whiting, haddock, cod-fish, ling, flounder, salmon, mackerel, skate, and herring. And those less frequently found are the mullet ( Mugil cephalus) ; horse-mackerel (Scomber trachunuj ; sun-fish^ which is very rare and little valued; pilchard (Clu^ pea pilchardusj ; lythe (Gadus poUachiusJy caught at the end of harvest by nets, and also by the fly ; and saith or cole-fish (Gadus carbonariusyj which is caught by lines as well as in nets. Besides these, the conger-eel, called by the fishermen have-eel (Mur€pna conger) is found in great abundance, but it is only of late years that it has been sold for food. The silver sole (Plat- ronectes Margaretta) is got in deep water, but it is now in small request Trout are also occasionally taken; and lobsters and crabs are caught, the former in great numbers. Of fishes which are not sold, the Portugal shark or sheer dog (Squcdus comubicus) is met with, particularly when fishes are abundant. The porpoise or pelliak (Delphinus phoaena) fol- lows the herrings, and is sometimes caught in the turbot nets : as does likewise the spout-whale or herring-hoy (Bahsnaphysahu^) which is supposed to live on the spawn or fry of the herring. Corse-foot or five- fingered star-fish (Asterea rvbens) are found in great abundance, sometimes on almost every hook of the fisher- men's lines. The kethick or sea-devil (Lophius piscatorius) is sometimes found of the weight of three or four stones. It is armed with sharp teeth, has a head disproportionately large, and is a most hideous-looking fish. The ink-fish (Sepia loligo) is plen- tiful, and employed as bait for skate-fish. It is well known to' derive its name from the dark inky kind of liquor which it dis- charges from its mouth, so as completely to blacken the water all around it. Botany. — In a parish of such limited extent, and with so little variety of soil, few rare plants can be expected to occur. It may, however, DO mentioned, that the Teesdalia nudicaulis^ Senebiera co^ ronopuSj Arabis vemoj and Arabia thaliana — all nearly allied to each other, both according to the natural and artificial classifica- tion, are here to be met with. The Sedum villostan, the Brassica monensis^ the Eryngium maritimum^ or sea holly, which is scarcely to be found except on the western coast ; and the Centunculus minimus (a very rare plant) are also found — the last mentioned on the northern confines of the parish. The Convolvulus Solda-- NEWTON-UPON-AYR. 91 nellay which is scarcely to be met with in another parish in the county, is here found growing in a small patch of ground amohg pure sand, within a little distance of the shore. 11. — Civil History. CoTuiitiUion of the Burgh. — The constitution of this burgh, particularly with regard to the property belonging to it, is very singular, and can only be paralleled by that of the neighbouring burgh of Prestwick. The date of its erection cannot be ascer- tained, as the original charter of its* creation has been lost. But it is traditionally ascribed to a grant by Robert the Bruce, in fa- vour of forty-eight of the inhabitants who had distinguished them- selves at the battle of Bannockburn in 1314. It is matter of his- tory that RoberX was present at the Parliament held at Ayr on the 26th April 1315, when the crown was settled on him and his descendants ; and it is certain, from documentary evidence, that the erection of the burgh and the territorial grant to the freemen, must have occurred between 1206-14, and 1446. All its previ- ously-existing privileges were, however, renewed and confirmed by a charter granted by James VI. dated in 1595; and by a second charter, granted by him in 1600 ; which proceed on the narrative of certain ancient writings and title-deeds having been exhibited to his Majesty respecting the original erection of the burgh, and of its former charters having been lost by reason of the wars and dissensions of the times. In these charters the lands of the parish, with the" whole privi- leges thereto attached, as the same had been enjoyed by their ancestors, are granted anew to the burgesses ; with power to grant feus, and divide among themselves the territorial possessions thus conveyed to them. They are also empowered to elect bailies, a treasurer, councillors, and other officers necessary for the govern- ment of the burgh. The number of freemen among whom the partition of the com-' mon property could be made, was, from the earliest times, limited to forty-eight, who were regarded as exclusively composing the community* Sons of burgesses, and failing sons, their sons-in-law, succeeded to the burgess-ship of their father, and to his portion of the lands, and other possessions of the burgh. But latterly, daughters have been admitted as well as sons, and other relations besides direct descendants, to inherit the rights of freedom ; and in certain cases the widows of freemen have been admitted to en- joy the life-rent of the lot or portion of lands, which belonged to 92 AYRSHIRE. their husbands. It would appear that the common property has been divided among the forty-eight freemen, from time to time, from the first erection of the burgh. But the first ^' dailP* or di- vision of which there is any record, took place in 1604, and was to subsist till 1615. Owing, however, to the want of entries in the community-book for a considerable period after this last date, we have no account of another ^^ daill" till 1655, which was also to subsist for eleven years. But from 1666 till 1771, a new par- tition was made every seven years, and the allotments made are regularly recorded. In this last mentioned year, in order to put an end to the evils which had been experienced from the short period of possession which they had heretofore enjoyed — the free- men resolved that the division which then fell to be made should continue for fifty-seven years. And, when this period expired in 1828) it was determined that the continuance of the lots which were then ballotted for should be for 999 years. In 1838^ it was farther agreed, that feu-rights of their lots should be granted to such of the freemen as might wish to hold their lands in that manner. The extent of the lots possessed by the freemen vary from six to ten acres, according to the quality of the land. Their value was formerly small. But since coal was discovered in the lands, and more particularly since their respective possessions were ren- dered more permanent, their value has greatly increased : and of thirty freedoms which have been sold within the last forty years, the prices have varied from L. 70 to L. 500. Newton is included within the parliamentary boundaries of the burgh of Ayr by the Reform Act, so as to form one constituen- cy with it in returning a Member to the House of Commons. No actual list of the L. 10 proprietors or occupiers has been taken, but there are 218 occupants of L. 5 yearly and Upwards, and it is computed that about 100 of these have tenements at or above L. 10 yearly. The council of the burgh consists of two bailies, one treasurer, and six councillors, who are annually elected by the freemen from among their own number. Although their powers are extensive, they have of late years only exercised jurisdiction in processes of sequestration for rent, and petty breaches of the peace; and even this limited jurisdiction is now seldom exercised. The constitu- tion of the burgh in this respect will be altered, and possibly may NEWTON-UPON-AYR. ■ 93 be extinguished, if the Municipal Corporations' Bill now depenaing before Parliament, pass into a law. Land-Oumers. — The freemen are proprietors of all the land in the parish, with the exception of ten acres. The greater part of the ground occupied by the town is also held in feu from them. William Forbes, Esq. -of Callendar, has the right of superiority over the main street : but the jurisdiction of the magistrates ex- tends to it, as well as to the other parts of the town. Surveys of the Parish. — Plans of the grounds belonging to the freemen have been repeatedly made. The latest was drawn up in 1829, by Mr James Milliken of Ayr. Parochial Registers. — These have been regularly kept since the erection of Newton into a separate parish, which took place in 1779. Antiquities. — Under this head mention may be made of a large building called Newton Castle, which formerly stood in Grarden Street, and was for a long period the seat of the Wallaces of Crai- gie. They removed to it from the Castle of Craigie (whose state- ly ruins may still be seen in the parish of that name) in the be- ginning of the sixteenth century, and continued to reside in this parish till Sir Thomas Wallace of Craigie, the fifth baronet, built "Craigie House, which stands on the north bank of the Ayr, a short way from the town. The writer has seen a view of Ayr, taken about 180 years ago, in which Newton House appears very prominent- ly — a castellated building of moderate height, surrounded by gar- dens and numerous trees. Beyond it, the houses of Newton are seen; apparently very humble dwellings, all thatched, and none of them exceeding the height of one storey. This old castle was taken down sixty or seventy years ago, and now there only remains part of the wall which enclosed the garden. Among its ruins, there was found an antique mathematical quadrant, and the barrel of an old gun, or rather wall-piece, seven feet long, and very heavy : both of which are preserved in the library belonging to the Ayr Mechanics' Institution; * Modem Buildings. — The only public buildings in the town are the parish church, a plain edifice, standing near to the site of Newton Castle, and behind the Council-house. The latter, which is an equally plain building, was erected forty years ago, and is sur- mounted by a steeple of no great height. The principal street in * Garden Street, in which Newton House ttood» was, a few years ago, transferred to St Quivoz, and is now included in the newly constituted parish of Wallacetown. d4 AYRSHIRE. the town is of considerable length, and about eighty feet in breadth ; but few of the houses in it can be said to be elegant Between it and the sea, a new town has arisen within the last thirty years, con- sisting of three or four streets, which are regularly laid out, but are as yet only partially built The town, after being stationary for a time in consequence of the ceasing of the coaUworks, is now extend-* ing* Two handsome villias have been recently built by freemen on their lands, and there is every reason to anticipate that their number will soon be greatly increased. III. — Population. At the Union, the population of the parish is supposed to have been under 400. In 1755, it is inferred from Dr Webster's re- port to have amounted to 581. In 1778, it had risen to 1600. In 1791, it was ascertained by an accurate survey, to amount to 1689, of which number there were 836 males, and 853 females. In 1801, the population was 1724 1811, - 2809 1821, - 4027 1881, 4020 In 1831, there were 1927 males, and 2093 females. The increase in the population between 1755 and 1778 was chiefly owing to an extensive herring-fishery, then carried on along this coast, particularly near the mouth of the Ayr. For some years after 1778, the number rather decreased, in consequence of the suspension of the coal> works. But on their being resumed in 1786, the population steadily increased, and between 1801 and 182] was more than doubled. After this last mentioned date, from the ceasing of the coal-works, and the removal of those employed in them to the neighbouring parishes, the number of inhabitants re- mained for a considerable time nearly stationary, and it is only very recently they have again begun to increase. The number of the population residing in the town is, - 8768 in the country, - . 252 The yearly average of births for the last seven years, - 104 marriages, - - - 42 burials witliin the parish,, - - 69 But a considerable proportion of those who die in the parish are interred in the grave-yards in Ayr and Wallacetown. The number of persons as ascertained by a late survey, under 15 yeai's of age is, - 1594 betwixt 15 and 30 - 1128 betwixt 30 and 50, - - 692 betwixt 50 and 70, - - 446 upwards of 70, - - 100 Number of unmarried men upwards of 50, - 21 unmarried women upwards of 45, - • 106 families according to census of 1891, - ^ 871 N E WTON-UPON-A YR. 95 Number of inhabited houses, - - 453 houses uninhabited or building, - 5 families chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 4 trade, manufactures, &c. 448 The number of insane and fatuous persons is 3, of blind 3, and of deaf and dumb 2. The number of illegitimate birth? during the last three years is, as tiearly as can be ascertained, 36, being on an average 12 yearly. There are no proprietors of land in the parish of the value of L. 50 yearly. The average annual rent of the portion of land be- longing to a freeman will not exceed L. 12 or L. 13; and in only one or two instances are two such portions held by one individual; when the right of one freedom nominally belongs to a son or other relation. Character and Habits of the People, — There is not much that is distinctive in the character or manners of the inhabitants. The freemen were at one period somewhat rude and unpolished, and by no means noted for the decorum observed by them at their public convivial entertainments. They have even been accused of being ^^ below mediocrity in wealth, industry, intelligence, education, and respectability," — a charge for which, at the time when it was made, its author was certainly much more indebted to fancy than to fact. But, whatever may have been the case in former days, the freemen as a body are now highly respectable ; almost all of them are in comfortable circumstances; and a considerable pro- portion of their number much above mediocrity in wealth, educa- tion and intelligence. The fishermen are the most peculiar class of the inhabitants. Several of them are the descendants of a colony from Pitsligo and some places adjacent, which settled in this place sixty years ago. They were induced to do so from some of their number, who had been impressed on board a man«of-war, which was for a considera- ble time stationed in the Frith of Clyde, having observed that fishes were to be found on this coast in great abundance. The form of the fishermen's coats is a little singular : and until lately, their Sunday's dress consisted of home-made blue-cloth. They live, as might be supposed, to a considerable extent on fish ; and it is alleged are not so attentive as could be wished to cleanliness in their habits. But to this remark there are not a few honourable exceptions. Fish are here obtained so cheap, and excellent in quality, that they are a very common article of food. Beer was formerly a favourite beverage, and was taken by the fishermen in 96 AYRSHIRE. their boats in preference to whisky. But the number of brewers has of lat^ years declined ; and it is to be feared that, with the di- minished consumption of beer, ardent spirits are proportionably in greater request It is pleasing to have to state, that poaching is almost unknown. The same may be said of smuggling — and there is not a pawn- broking establishment in the town. . On the whole, it may be said, that, although few of the inhabi- tants are wealthy, the number of persons in extreme poverty is less than is commonly to be found in other communities of similar ex- tent An unusual proportion of families live in houses built by themselves ; and though the circumstances of many of them be humble, they are contented, and, comparatively speaking, comforta- ble. Instances of gross immorality are unfrequent And while it must be acknowledged that here, as in other parishes where the population has outgrown the means of church accommodation, not a few habitually absent themselves from public ordinances; the ge- neral character of even these is superior to what we might have been led to anticipate. No doubt much of this is owing to the . example of their church-going neighbours, who elevate that con- ventional standard of morality, below which it is reckoned disgrace- ful to fall. And, respecting the latter, it is proper to mention, that they have long been distinguished for a more than ordinary respect for religion and its ordinances ; and there is reason to believe, that there is not a small number among them who are imbued with the spirit of genuine piety, and live under the Influence of divine truth. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — The number of acres, standard imperial measure, in Uie parish, which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage is, - - - - 336 The number of acres which are waste or in pasture, - - - 93 Number of acres which might be added to the cultiyated land of the parish, ^6 in a state of undlTided common, • - - .0 All the land belonging to the freemen is now divided, with the exception of eight acres reserved for a quarry. There are almost no trees in the parish ; nor is it easy to rear them, from want of sufficient shelter. And so long as the lands were common proper- ty, there was little inducement to any individual to expend money in plantations, which would soon fall to be possessed by another. This was, indeed, an insuperable obstacle to all kinds of improve- NEWTON-UPON'AYR. 97 ment. Nor is it matter of wonder that, while the land chang- ed possessors every seven years, little should have been done in in- closing fields, or meliorating the soil. But after the experience of centuries had at length convinced the freemen of the necessity of a change in this respect, and their tenures were first greatly extend- ed, and latterly rendered permanent, there was a complete revolu- tion in the rural economy of the parish. Land which had previ- ously been allowed to lie waste was brought under cultivation — rude turf-mounds gave place to thorn-hedges or substantial stone- walls, with which most of the fields are now enclosed — and so great- ly has the soil been improved, that from these and other causes, freedoms are more than ten times their value about forty years ago. Such has been the favourable result of a partial abandon- ment of the *' principles of equality and independence," of which, as is remarked in the appendix to the last Statistical Account, the constitution of this burgh affords one of the best exemplifications. JRent of Land* — The highest rent given for arable land is L. 5, per acre, but some of it will not yield more than 10s. The average rent may be stated at L. 1, 15s. The rent of grazing a cow is from L. 4 to L. 5. The greater part of the land is cultivated by the freemen themselves ; and it is somewhat singular that, in a pa^ fish where so many are more or less employed in agriculture, only one family is exclusively supported by farming. Fisheries. — With the exception of those employed in the salmon- fishery, who remain here for only a part of the year, all the fisher- men in the district reside in this parish. They are chiefly engag- ed in white-fishing. Seven boats are employed in it, and there are four men required for each boat About twenty years ago, their wages were 38. 6d. a day : now they have &llen to 2s. In- stead of fishing as they formerly did through the whole extent of the Frith, and even up Loch-Fyne, numbers of the Newton fisher- men have settled permanently at the various stations which they were wont only occasionally to visit. And those who remain have not merely their range of fishing circumscribed, but, being exclud- ed from the Glasgow market by the successful rivalry of their brethren on the Highland coasts, who have the advantage of more frequent and convenient communication by steam-boats with the western metropolis, they are now limited to the supplying of Ayr, and the neighbouring villages* The consequence is, that the fisher- men are generally poor, and are no longer the respectable class of men which they were in more prosperous days. AYR. G 98 AYRSHIRE. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce yeiu'ly raised in the parish is as follows: Produce of grain of all kinds, cuitiTated for the food of man or the domestic animab, . . . L. 488 Of potatoes and turnips, .... 202 Of hay, .... - 55 Of land in pasture, . . . . . 471 Of fisheries, estimated at . . 1050 Freestone quarry, ... . . 400 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L. 2666 Manufactures. — The most important of these are ship-building, rope and sail-making, iron and brass-founding, and smith-woriu Ship-building has for a long period been carried on at this har- bour. About thirty years ago, there were^not less than 200 men employed ; but it afterwards gradually declined till within the last ten years. It has of late been carried on to a considerable extent in the wood-yard of Messrs Cowan and Sloan. In 1 831, a pa- tent slip was erected by Mr Morton, the patentee : and since that time III vessels have been taken on and repaired, and nine new ones have been built, registering from 47 to 483 tons each. Some of these have been constructed by orders from shipowners in Qreenock, and one for the East India trade. Betwixt 40 and 50 hands are constantly employed, who work eight hours in winter and ten in summer, and earn from 18s. to L. 1, per week. In the rope and saiUwork, 10 hands are at present employed, whose weekly wages are from 12s. to 15s. It is worthy of remark, that af)«r great fluctuations of prosperity and depression in the interval, both of these branches of trade are, as nearly as may be, in the same state in which they were at the date of the last Statistical Account (1791) — there being then 50 men employed in shipbuild- ing, and 10 in manufacturing ropes. There are four foundries in which machinery of all kinds is ma- nufactured, and smith-work executed : but none of them are on an extensive scale. The working hours are ten per day; 34 men and 14 boys are at present employed; and the average weekly wages are, for men, 16s. and for boys 5s. There is also a salt-work, containing two pans, in which salt is made chiefly from the rock imported from Liverpool. Five men are employed in it, whose wages are 10s. 6d. a-week. An interesting enumeration was given in the last Statistical Ac- count of Newton, of all the occupations of the inhabitants, and the number employed in each. Nothing so minute can now be attempted. But it may be mentioned, as the result of a careftil NEWTON-UPON-AYR. S9 surveyi that,, in addition to fishermen, carpenters, and smiths, whose numbers have been already stated, there are hi the parish 400 weavers employed by agents for Glasgow houses, 27- colliers, 84 masons, 20 sawyers, and (including 12 shipmasters) about 100 seamen. It may not be unimportant to add, that, as nearly as can be estimated, there are 600 or 700 women, principally girls and unmarried women, employed in hand-sewing for ware- houses in Glasgow. The Ayrshire needle^work, so extensively known and justly ce- lebrated, was executed in this parish forty years ago : and it has been gradually improving until the present day. It consists of various patterns sewed on muslin and cambric for ladies' dresses, babies' robes, caps, &c From the year 1815, when point was in- troduced into the work, the demand for it in London and other parts of England, as well as in Dublin and Edinburgh, has in- creased to a considerable extent. It is also sent to France, Rus- sia, and Germany, and is exposed to sale in the shops of Paris. This valuable means of employment affords a fair profit to the manufacturer, and gives support to many respectable females, who by dint of industry, can earn from Is. to Is. 6d. and, in some cases, 2s« per day. In this work, whibh is confined to Ayr and its neigh- bourhood, several hundreds are engaged : and it is calculated that at least from 50 to 60 of them, who are chiefly young women, re- side in the parish of Newton. Ncmigation. — That we may not interfere with the account of the neighbouring parish of Ayr, we shall enter into no details un- der this head. It is proper, however, to state, that Newton has a joint interest in the harbour with the adjacent county town, and it would appear that this burgh formerly laid claim to anchorage-- dues. Nearly all the coal exported from the harbour, which con- stitutes a chief part of its trade, is received on this side of the river. One hundred waggon-loads are daily conveyed to the port along a railway, from the coal-mines in the parish of St Quivox. About 300 vessels of all sizes are annually loaded with coal^ chiefly for Ireland and the West Highlands. The yearly exportation amounts to 40,000 tons, which, at the present price of 13s. per ton of 28 cwt., makes the value of this trade L. 26,000 per annum. V. — Parochial Economy. Markets^ Sfc. — Newton has a market-day, but it is merely no- minal — all important business being transacted in Ayr. l^he po- pulation residing in the town is 3768. The town is situated in the 100 AYRSHIRE. south end of the parish, on the north bank of the river Ayr, and has scarcely any visible line of demarcation from Wallacetown. As respects the means of communication, it has all the advantages enjoyed by the county town, of which it may be regarded as a suburb. The mail and other coaches to Glasgow pass and repass daily. There is also a coach for Edinburgh, which passes daily through the parish ; besides which there are regular conveyances to Kilmarnock, Troon, and Irvine. There is only one turnpike road in the parish, which is a mile and a-half in length. There is also a rail-road, made about twenty years ago, along which, coals are conveyed from the mines to the harbour. The harbour has lately been much improved ; but, from a defi- ciency of funds, the improvements begun on the north side of the river have not yet been completed. A light-house was first erect- ed in 1790, by the company who rented the coal belonging to the community of Newton, on the north-east side of the harbour. But, as it was swept away by the encroachments of the sea, a wooden '.structure was erected in its place in 1827, which, though wanting '.'*'. m the recommendation of elegance, unquestionably possesses that • of utility. Ecclesiastical State. — Newton was originally part of the united parishes of Monkton and Prestwick; but the inhabitants being four miles distant from the parish church, where they had only ac- commodation for twelve or fourteen out of a population of between 700 and 800 examinable persons, a large amount of the common fund which fell to be divided among the freemen, was, in 1776, ge- nerously set apart by them for building a place of worship within the burgh. It was at first established in 1778^ on the footing of a chapel of ease ; but, in 1779, a decreet of disjunction and erection was obtained from the Court of Teinds, by which the burgh with its territory was constituted a separate parish. By that decreet, the whole teinds of the lands belonging to the freemen were re- served to the minister of the original parish ; and an obligation was laid on them and their successors to uphold and repair the church of Newton, and provide a suitable stipend for the minister, besides a manse and glebe. It does honour to the liberality of the freemen — who are the only heritors in the parish — that, at a time when their own resources were but small, they voluntarily came under these obligations, — expending in the erection of the church and manse about L. 2000. And although the burgh was thereby brought to the brink of bankruptcy, they were ultimately NE WTON-UPON-AYR. 1 1 enabled, by means of the revenue derived from their coal-works, to free themselves from their difficulties. It should also be men- tioned, that in 1778, they purchased the right of patronage to their church from the patroness of Monkton and Prestwick. This is still held by them, and exercised in a peculiar manner. They are obliged to elect annually thirteen of their number, who are called delegates. Upon these delegates devolves the management of the secular affairs of the church ; and in the case of a vacancy they have the sole power of electing a minister, and granting a pre- sentation — but nine out of the thirteen must concur in the choice. The church, which was built in 1778, was lately enlarged, and now affords accommodation for 1032 persons. There are no free sittings. The manse was built in 1787, and repaired in 1827. The glebe contains 6^ acres, including the ground occupied by the garden, manse, and offices, and may be valued at L. 15 a year. The stipend amounts only to L. 60, with L. 5, for a cow's grass. But L. 90 is allowed by Government ; and a gratuity, besides, is given by the freemen out of the proceeds of the seat-rents, which is at present L. 95 ; so that the amount annually received by the incumbent is L. 250. There is also an allowance of L. 8. for sa- cramental expenses. The glebe was inclosed two years ago with a wall at a considerable expense ; and a garden wall is at present building. There is no other church, nor any dissenting chapel in the pa- rish. Three-fourths of the population belong to the Established Church ; so that the accommodation provided for them is very in- adequate, especially when it is taken into account that a conside- rable proportion of the congregation is extra-parochial. The fol- lowing table, with which the writer has been fevoured by his pre- decessor, exhibits the classification of the inhabitants of the pa- rish according to their religious profession, with the number of sittings possessed by them respectively in their places of worship. It is the result of a survey made in December 1835, and January 1836. Established Church, - 2960, holding 708 sittings. ReHef, ... 282,-116 United Secession, . 188» - 85 Original. Secedere, - 102, - 51 Reformed Presbyterians, 47, - 15 Methodists, - - 86,-24 Episcopalians, - - 51, - 13 Independents, - '^ 20, - 11 Morairians, - 9-1 L 102 AYRSHIRE. Roman Catholics, . 205, boldiog 39 nttings. No denomination, - 87 4087 1063 The result is, that 2960 persons, professing to belong to the Established Church, hold 708 sittings, and of that number 801 are communicants : 990 Dissenters of all denominations hold 355 sittings : and among them there are 350 communicants. Divine service at the Established Church is always well attend- ed. Scarcely a sitting is unlet. The Lord's supper is dispen- sed twice a year, and the number who communicate each time is betwixt 700 and 800. The amount of extraordinary collections for religious and charitable objects is small ; but the ordinary col- lections for the support of the poor are^ comparatively speaking, liberal. There are three religious societies connected with the parish, but none of them exclusively so, viz. the Ayr, Newton, and Wallacetown Female Bible Society; the Ayr Sabbath School Union Society, which has three schools in this parish, attended by about 200 cliildrcn ; and the Newton, Wallacetown, and St Quivox Society, for the monthly distribution of Tracts. Education, — There are in all five schools in the parish, but two of them are of a very imperfect description ; being taught by elderly women in the humbler walks of life, and intended solely for beginners. Wages are from 2d. to 3d. per week. Of the remain- ing three, one i^ for the education of young ladies"-and in it En- glish, writing, music, drawing, and fency-work are taught on mo- derate terms; another, in which all the ordinary branches are taught, is unendowed. Besides these, there is the parochial school, which is at present attended by 91 scholars. In addition to the ele- mentary branches, instruction is given in mathematics, Latin and French. The schoolmaster has the minimum salary. He has no house or garden, but an allowance in lieu of them. The average amount of school-fees received does not exceed L. 50 a-year. There is a small fund of L. 98, the interest of which is appropriated to the education of children of the poor, provided their parents have been bom in the parish. The general expense of education may be stat- ed at ds. 6d. per quarter. The whole number of children attending schools within the parish is only 250, which is not more than a six- teenth of the population. Many, however, attend the Ayr Academy, and other schools which are in the immediate vicinity ; so that it is believed the number who cannot read or write is but small. Still 4 NEWTON-UPON-AYE. 1 03 there is a lack of the means of education ; and one or two additional endowed schools are much required* Library — A parochial library was instituted in 1 829, and contains about 500 volumes. The annual subscription is 2s., and the num- ber of readers varies from 60 to 100. Friendly Societies. — Of these there are only two, which can be considered as belonging to this parish, and they are not in a pros- perous state. But there are 10 or 12 societies whose members are scattered through Ayr, Newton, and Wallacetown ; and since 1790, they have distributed among their sick and infirm^members L. 18»64a Savings Bank.-^^A savings bank was instituted in ldl5^for'^the parishes of Ayr, Newton, and St Quivox. The sums invested yearly have since its commencement gradually increased. Last year they amounted to L. 2715 — the sums withdrawn to L. 2375. In the course of the last two years 503 accounts have been opened for new depositors, about one-fourth of whom reside in this parish. The depositors in general belong to the various classes of mecha- nics, — weavers, masons, shoemakers, carpenters, &c.— and a very considerable proportion are females, employed at needle-work, or as domestic servants. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The following table shows the ave- rage number of persons who have received parochial aid for the last seven years, the annual amount of contributions for their ns- lief, and the corresponding outlay : Average No. of Years. poor on the roll. Income. Expenditure. 1830, - 64 . L.165 A li - L. 163 5 8 1831, - 56 . 176 3 H - 188 13 64 1832, - 54 . 179 6 . 178 14 10^ 1833, -60 - 168 18 54 - 178 16 5 1834, - 70 - 175 2 11) . 184 4 1835, - 56 - 171 9 7) - 180 14 8 1836, . 47 - 149 I 54 . 164 18 84 Besides the monthly pensioners, whose allowance varies from is. 6d. to 8s. per month, and may be averaged at 4s. 6d., there are many who receive occasional aid. The funds for the support of the poor ar6 raised by church collections, amounting to about L. 100 yearly, and by an assessment, which varies from Lp 45 to L. 50. A little additional assistance is obtained from occasional donations, penalties, and other miscellaneous sources of income. It will be observed that, for some years past, the income has been exceeded by the expenditure. To remove the debt, which is thus accumuhiting, it is proposed to increase the assessment ; but it is 104 AYRSHIRE. to be feared that the effect of doing so would be to diminish pro* portionably the church collections. The assessment is not pro* ductive, nor is it Tory willingly paid. It would be extremely de- sirable if it were possible to dispense with it altogether. But to this it is objected, that Dissenters, who do nothing Toluntarily for the support of the poor, would then be entirely relieved. Even this grievance, however, might be submitted to, if the amount raised by voluntary contributions were adequate to meet the ne- cessary expenditure. It is to be regretted, that there seems to be little indisposij;ion among the'poor to seek parochial relie£ Some there are, indeed, who willingly submit to privations rather than ap- ply for it ; but much greater is the number of those who feel no reluctance in making such applications. Inns^ Alehouses^ Sfc — There are 30 public-houses or places where spirituous liquors are sold, which is in the proportion of one to every twenty-nine families — a number unnecessarily large. Fuel. — Almost the only fuel made use of is coal, which is pro- cured in abundance from the mines in the parish of St Quivox, which are little more than a mile distant from the town. A cart- load of 14 cwt. costs 6s. 9d. But many prefer the coal brought from pits at several miles distance, which is higher in price but su- perior in quality. Miscellaneous Observations. Some of the variations betwixt the present state of the parish and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Account have been referred to under former heads. The population has in the interval increased from 1689 to upwards of 4000. The style of building is much superior, and a new and excellent road has been opened, affording a fine approach to the town. Still more marked have been the improvements in the rural economy of the parish. Formerly a considerable tract of ground belonging to the freemen remained in common ; their fields were generally open^ and were kept constantly in tillage. Now the system of rotation of crops is duly attended to ; the cultivated fields are well enclo&» ed ; the soil has been improved in a high degree ; and no land re- mains undivided. At the period to which we refer the whole pro- perty was not worth more than L. 4000. At the present time — although the coal is exhausted, from which so much revenue was derived — its value cannot be less than L. 14,000 or L. 15,000. ^^ Each freedom," says the last Statistical Account, ^^ is valued at \m 95, though none have given so much for it.'' Freedoms may OCHILTREE. 105 now be estimated at from L. 800 to L. 400, and some haye brought as much as L. 500. Scarcely any improvement in the system of husbandry can be suggested, which is not already in progress. As regards the town, it would be very desirable that it were lighted with gas, and that some of the streets were better paved. It is proposed to establish immediately a carpet-manufactory, which will materially increase the means of employment And the Glasgow and Ayr railway, the terminus of which is to be in this parish, will immensely increase the facilities of communication. On the whole, as respects local advantages, there is much cause for con- gratulation. But it is to the extension of our educational and re- ligious institutions, and a higher appreciation of them by those for whose benefit they are designed, that we chiefly look, as calculat- ed, under the Divine blessing, most effectually to promote the hap- piness and comfort of the labouring classes, and of all ranks of the community. May 1837. PARISH OF OCHILTREE. PRBSBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JAMES BOYD, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. }f ame. Ochiltree is derived by Chalmers, in his Caledonia, from the British Uchle tree, signifying the high town, or dwelling- place ; by others, from the Gaelic Uchle^ Camp, to which tree is annexed, thereby forming Uchle tree or Camp-tree, or from O' ChaaUearan, which signifies a district of a country covered with trees of all kinds. Which of these derivations may be the proper one, it is diflBcult to determine ; but any of them may be well ap- plied to the situation of the place. The first name given answers to the site of the old castle of Ochiltree, which is upon the brow of the high rocky banks of the Lugar, and the others may have arisen from a place called the Camp, and the rising ground, now occupied by the houses and gardens of the village, where there • Fumislied n«irly in its present form, by Robert Pettigrew, Esq. of Polquhairn. 105 AYRSHIRE. were at one time many large trees, probably of several hundred years of age. Boundaries and Extent, — Ochiltree is bounded on the south by the parishes of New Cumnock and Dalmellington ; on the east, by Old Cumnock and Auchinleck ; on the north, by the parish of Stair ; and on the west, by Stair and Coylton. Taking the eiLtreme points, it extends about 8 miles in length, by 5 in breadth, and contains, by the admeasurement of the several estates in it, 15,387 imperial acres, or 24^^ square miles. Topographical Appearances, — The greater part of the land lies on an elevation of from 400 to 1000 feet above the level of the sea, with a northern exposure, forming ridges of different^ lengths and heights, running in general from east to west, and connected with flat pieces of land composed of meadow and moss. The temperature is very variable, with considerable foils of rain. The soil is chiefly of a clayey nature, and the air often damp and chilly. It frequently happens that the crops are late in ripen- ing, and not well filled. Hydrography, — There are many springs of excellent water in the parish. There are two lochs, — one of them about 27 acres in extent, 'and from 2 feet to 20 feet in depth, and the other of smaller dimensions. They are only useful as reservoirs for cattle in very dry seasons. These lochs, which lie quite open, with gently rising grounds around them, could be easily drained ; but it may be questionable whether the land to be thus gained would repay the expense of the necessary outlay. The Lugar runs between the parishes of Ochiltree and Auchinleck ; and Coila divides the parish of Ochil- tree from that of Coylton. The Burnoch Water, and several other small streams or bums, fall at different points into the Lugar or Coila, which run into the river Ayr. Geology, — Although it be known that there are several seams of coal within the parish, none is raised, from the impression that they could not be woriced to advantage. No limestone has been discovered. There is plenty of freestone in various places, par- ticularly on the banks of the Lugar, and at Grarrochhill. Iron- stone, in thin beds, has been discovered in the hills of Polquhairn and Greenhill, but not in such quantities as to encourage any work to be carried thereon. From the declivity of the different ridges already referred to, which mark the appearance of the parish i there has been much OCHILTREE. 107 alluvial deposit carried into the lower places, which has formed meadows and marshes ; but, being of a clayey nature, it continues soft, and induces the growth of rushes, sprets, and other grasses usually found in wet places. The greater part of the land consists of a clayey loam, resting on a stiff clay subsoil, and, without drain- ing to a great extent, unfit for the new mode of husbandry, where green drilled crops enter into one of the rotations. The uplands are generally mossy, resting on clay of a yellow colour, covered by moss of various depths, which often break into what are called hags, or flow-moss. II. — Civil History. The author of Caledonia mentions, ^^ that, as early as the year 1498, there had been a feud between Hugh Campbell of Louden, the sheriff of Ayr, and Sir William Colville of Uckletree^ Knight," when the King granted an exemption to Sir William Colville and his tenants and servants from the jurisdiction of Hugh Campbell and his deputies, " because it was notoriously known that there is a deadly feud betwixt them." Again, ^^ after the disastrous bat- tle of Flodden, many violent acts were committed in Scotland, particularly in the south. In Ayrshire, the strong houses of Cum- nock and Uchletree were both violently taken possession of; their owners having fallen on Flodden field." From the same author we learn, ^^ that in 1296, Symon de Spalding, the parson of the church of Ochiltree, swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick. During the reign of Robert I. Eustace de Colville granted to the monks of Melrose the church of Ochil- tree with all its pertinents — a grant which was confirmed by a charter from Robert de Colville of Oxnan and of Ochiltree in 1324. Down to the Reformation, the monks of Melrose enjoyed the tithes and revenues, whilst the cure was served by a vicar, who had a fixed salary from them. In 1527, James Colville of Ochil- tree granted an annualrent of L. 10 for the support of a chap- lain to ofiiciate at St Mary's altar, in the church of Ochiltree, and the grant was confirmed by the King in 1527-8. In 1530, Sir James Colville transferred the barony of Uchletree to Sir James Hamilton of Finnart-, in exchange for the barony of East Wemyss in Fife. In 1534, Sir James Hamilton transferred the barony of Ochiltree to Andrew Stewart, Lord Evandale, in exchange for the barony of Evandale, and in consequence of this exchange, Stewart was, in March 1542-3, created Lord Stewart of OchiU tree." 108 AYRSHIRE. His son, Andrew, Lord Ochiltree, a zealous reformer, whose daughter was married to Knox, appropriated to himself the whole of the lands which belonged to the church of Ochiltree. He also obtained from David Crichton, vicar, with consent of the Com* mendator of Melrose, the patron of that church, a charter of fee farming of all the church lands of Ochiltree, except the vicar's manse and garden, and this charter was confirmed under the Great Seal on the 10th May 1567. His grandson, Andrew Lord Ochil- tree, obtained, in 1601, a grant of the kirk lands of Uchletree, called the Vicar's Holm, and also the advowson, donation, and pa- tronage of the parsonage and vicarage of Ochiltree, and this char- ter was ratified in the Parliament of 1606. In 1653, the western part of the parish of Ochiltree was detatched from it, and formed into a separate parish called Stair* The barony of Ochiltree, as well as the patronage of the church, went through many hands, and eventually into the possession of William, the first Earl of Dundonald, who granted them to his second son. Sir John Coch- rane, who lost them by forfeiture in 1685. His son, William, having obtained a grant of them from the Crown in 1686, they continued in the Cochrane family until about one hundred years ago, when they were purchased by Governor M^Rae, who left them to Miss Macquire, afterwards married to the Earl of Glencairn. The barony was again sold about twenty years ago in lots, which were purchased by different neighbouring proprietors. There is another barony in the parish— namely, that of Traboch, which signifies ike dwdling place of the tribe^ the property of Sir James Boswell, Bart On this estate there is a farm called Hoodstone, which the ancestors of the present tenant have rented from about the middle of the thirteenth century. About that time, three brothers of the name of Hood came from England, and settled, one of them, in Hoodstone, and the others, in the neighbourhood. According to the tradition in the femily, the death of their renowned progenitor, Robin Hood, was the imme- diate cause of their emigration. * . Land-owners. — The land-owners, few of whom reside in the parish, are, the Most Noble the Marquis of Bute; Sir James Boswell of Auchinleck ; Dowager Lady Boswell ; David Limond, Esq. of Dalblair; James Pettigrew Wilson, Esq. of Polquhaim ; Robert Campbell, Esq. of Skerrington ; Andrew Hunter, Esq. of Bonnieton ; Robert M^Dirmet Fergushill, Esq. of Burnockston ; John D. Boswell, Esq. of Garallan, &c. 3 OCHILTREE. 109 Parochial Registers. — The registers of baptisms and marriages go back to the year 1641, but there was no register of deaths till about forty years ago. The registers began in 1641, were regular- ly kept for a considerable time, but were afterwards for a long pe- riod very much neglected. For the last fifty years they have been kept in a most regular manner. The first volume having been written in an old hand, and diflScult to be made out, the present schoolmaster was induced to copy the whole thereof into a new book, which copy was, by the late Rev. William Thomson, then minister of the parish, compared with the original, and attested by him on the dd November 1803. jlntiqtiities. — A part of the village is built on what was formerly a camp, but of its history there is little or nothing known. At the toll-bar, on the road to Ayr, there is a place called the Moat, where, a few years ago, was found an urn with calcined bones, and, last spring, a ploughman, in turning up the soil, found a crown piece of James L of England, in good preservation, the inscription quite legible, and within it the sword and mace. — Of the old castle of Ochiltree that stood on the banks of the Lugar, nothing remains but the foundation ; the stones having been taken away at different times to build houses and dikes on the adjoining farms. There are the ruins of an old castle at Auchincloich, but by whom, or for what purpose it was built in that hilly district, is not known. There is, detached from the rock on the banks of the Lugar, a large stone about 60 feet high, by 40 feet in length, and 20 feet in breadth, par- tially covered on the top with shrubs, heather, and grass. It is re- garded as a great curiosity, and called, from its peculiar form, Kemp's Castle. III. — Population. By the returns made to Dr Webster in 1755, the population of the parish was 1210 ; and by census taken in the year 1792, there were 1144 persons; in the year 1801, 1308; in 1811, 1548; in 1821, 1588 ; and in 1831, 1562 ; which shews a decrease since the pre- vious census in 1821, of 26 souls. The number of fiimilies in the pariih at the census in 1831, was d20 dwelling-houses, .... 271 males, . 799 femalcsy • 823 Of persons residing in the village, ... 642 country part, • 920 The yearly average of births for the last seven years was 34 deaths for the same period, • • 27 marriages, . . 13 110 AYRSHIRE. Number of persons under 15 years of age, • 586 from 15 and under 30, • • 451 30 50, .... 296 50 70, . . . 170 upwards of 70, . . - 59 Average number of children in each lamily, . . ^{ti insane and fatuous persons, • .10 deaf, . . ' > 1 blind, . • • .2 Of the proprietors of land of the value of L. CO of yearly rent and upwards, 14 Of farmers and holders of land on lease, . . 101 Of grooers and other shopkeepers, . . 9 Of mechanics of various descriptions both male and female, . 214 Of innkeepers, . . • . • 6 Numbers of fiimilies in (he parish, • 920 chiefly employed in agriculture, . • 121 trade, manu&cture, or handicraft, 118 Within the last three years there were seyen illegitimate births in the parish. Character of the People. — The inhabitants of this parish are very cleanly in their persons, and generally appear at church and mar- ket in substantial fine clothes. Indeed, it has been observed that the young females, particularly the servant girls, are rather fond of dressing finely. It is not unusual to see persons of this description arrayed in silk gowns, with other parts of their dress corresponding. Their wages are in this way almost wholly spent, instead of provid- ing, by the earnings of youth, for the wants of age, or for seasons of affliction. The food of the peasantry is generally oatmeal porridge and milk to breakfast, broth, with butcher-meat and potatoes to din- ner, and porridge or potatoes with milk for supper. In addition to these articles, they often use, at their meals, milk with cakes of oat- meal, or a mixture of oatmeal and bear meal, made into scones. In the families of most mechanics, tea is used, generally twice a*day, but the practice does not prevail amongst farm-servants to any extent. The inhabitants of this parish are entitled to rank high for their intelligence and respectability. Availing themselves of the advan- tages which the system of our parochial schools affords in early life, and improving the opportunities which afterwards occur for acquir- ing information, by reading and conversing with one another, — they are generally well acquainted, not only with the business of their own profession or trade, but also with the speculations and mea- sures that bear upon the agricultural and commercial interests of the country. Recent events have given an importance to politics which the people of this district deeply feel ; and the state of par- ties they observe with a watchful eye. It is only doing the inha- bitants of this parish justice to observe, that they are strictly honest in their dealings ; that they shew a commendable anxiety to bring OCHILTREE. Ill up tbeir children to habits of industry and integrity ; that they give a regular attendance on the public services of religion, and:''''gene- rally manifest a correctness of conduct in the different relations of life highly creditable to their principles and character. IV. — Industry. Affriculture. — The extent of land under cultivation, or occasion- ally in tillage, is about 10,242 imperial acres ; of hill pasture, plan- tations, and waste lands, 5145 imperial acres. Perhaps 1000 acres might be added to the present cultivated land, but such an improve- meiity in order to be advantageous, should be made at first on a li- mited scale, and under the most economical management. With- out adverting to the kind of soil, the distance from lime, and the probable additional value imparted to the land, it is not unusual for theorists to commence their operations on a large scale, and thus create disappointment to themselves, and bring ruin on those with whom they may be connected* Rent ofhand't Sfc — The rent of land called arable ranges from lOs. to L. 2 per acre, but the true average of the whole is about 15s. per acre* The grazing of a cow or ox is L. 3 ; of a sheep, 58* per annum. Wages. — The wages given to men-servants who are fit to do all kinds of work about a farm, average h, 12, 10s. per annum ; and to female servants of the same description, L. 7 a-year. These servants lodge in their master's houses, and get their food and wash^ ing. Day-labourers get in summer about Is. 8d., and in winter Is. 8d. per day, without food ; masons and wrights get about 2s. 6d; per day, when working from home. For building houses and walls the charge is L. 1, 10s. per rood ; and 3d. per foot for hewn work. Livestock. — The sheep kept are mostly of the black-faced kind, with a few of the Leicester, Bakewell, Southdown and Cheviot, with crosses from all these descriptions. There are a few of the black Egyptian breed, at Burnton, and other farms in the parish, which are much admired for their fine wool. The breed of cattle is of the Ayrshire dairy kind, and the formers are beginning to take greater care in the improvement of their slock, by the selection of superior bulls, and attending more par- ticularly to the keeping of the cows in the winter and spring. HuAandry. — The arable lands in the parish are divided into farms of various extent from 10 to 300 acres ; and, according to the usual system of management, a third or a fourth of the farm is put into white crop at the same time. Before breaking up any 112 AYRSHIRE. land for a crop, it is generally manured with a compost of lime and earthy or with dung ; then two white crops are usually taken^ with the last of which grass seeds are sown, which yield a crop of hay the following season ; then the land remains in pasture for five or six years, before it is broken up again. This is the ordinary rotation. Other modes of management are adopted, but only to a very limited extent ; and, therefore, need not be particu- larized. The mode taken for reclaiming waste or hill land is by first liming the same at the rate of 120 bolls to each acre ; or by paring the surface and burning it into ashes, which, with about 50 bolls of lime to each acre, are spread over it After two white crops are taken, it is sown down and kept in pasturage for sheep three or four years. Furrow-draining is not carried on to any great extent in the parish. Mr Tennant of Creoch has lately drained, according to this system, about 100 acres, at the expense of from L. 5 to L. 6 per acre. These drains are made about twenty inches deep, and filled up with small broken stones at least ten inches in depth. The advantages that arise from this system are very great, but a tenant under an ordinary lease, would not be justified in at- tempting it to any considerable extent As such improvements add permanently to the value of the lands, they should be carried on at the expense of the proprietor, and the tenant chained with a &ir interest on the money laid out on the draining. LecLses. — Many farms on the estate of Ochiltree were on life* time tacks, but these are now nearly all expired by the death of the tenants. The leases of other lands in the parish are from nine to nineteen years. Short leases are extremely injurious to the interests of the proprietor and tenant. As the lease draws near to a close, the occupier generally does as little as he can to improve his farm, and becomes quite careless about the state of his house and fences, being fearful were he to act otherwise, that some other person might reap the fruit of his labours. It would be for the advantage of both landlord and tenant, that the occu- pier, if industrious, should have a preference and obtain a new lease, before the expiration of the old one, by a fair valuation of the farm. By this plan, the tenant would be encouraged in carrying on his improvements, and the land always kept in good condition. The farm-houses are mostly covered with thatch, a few with slates, which is considered a great improvement, by giving less harbour to rats and mice. The fences are partly made by ditches with L. 9734 1290 - 2284 5255 420 1089 1034 292 5 300 150 50 L. 21,898 5 OCHILTREE. 113 white thorn planted on the bank of earth cast out of the ditch, and partly by stone dikes ; the former costing 2s. 6d. per fall for making with plants and paling; and the latter from 4s. to 10s. per fall of 18^ feet in length. Annual Produce. — The value of the different kinds of produce raised in the parish is as follows, viz. White crop, with pease and beans, Green do. - . - Hay, cultivated and meadow, Produce from 1043 cows, at L. 5 each, 140 fat cattle at L. 3, 1089 young do, at L. 1, 3448 sheep, at 6s. 167 pigs, at L. 1, 15s. young horses reared, gardens and orchards, wood sold out of plantations, Manufactures. — In the village there is a manufactory for making reaping-hooks. Those made and finished by Hector Walker are sent to different parts of the kingdom, and held in high re^ pute^ There are box-makers, smiths, wrights, masons, shoe- makers, tailors, coopers^ a baker, customary weavers, and cotton- weavers, — the latter class employed by the manufacturers of Glasgow and Paisley. A considerable number of the young fe- males in the village, and in some parts of the country, are employ- ed in sewing muslin, — an employment which in most instances un- fits them for other occupations, and, besides, it frequently injures their health, and leaves them very helpless when they get houses of their own, as to the management of their domestic concerns, V. — Parochial Economy. There is no market held in the parish. The nearest market- town of any importance is Ayr, which is 11^ miles distant from the village. There are about 7 miles of turnpike roads in the pa- rish, and 16 miles of other public roads, made, and upheld by the statute-labour converted into money, amounting annually to L. 75 a year. These funds are very judiciously applied in making and repairing roads, throughout the different districts of the parish. Ecclesiastical State. — The church stands, in the middle of the village. It was built in 1789, and is capable of holding 900 per- sons. . It is divided amongst the heritors according to their respec- tive valuations, and again amongst the tenants according to the size of their farms. The families, in the village, though many sittings are attached to their feus, complain, with great reason, of the want AYR. H 114 AYRSHIRE. of accommodation, and it is hoped that some plan will be adopted to remedy this evil. Built nearly at the eastern extremity of the parish, the church is rather inconveniently placed to a great part of the population. This, however, has not hitherto prevented even the most distant from giving a regular attendance. The manse and office-houses were built about forty years ago, and underwent a complete repair in 1833, when an addition was made to the manse. The extent of the glebe is about 9 acres, which may be valued at about L. 20. The stipend previously agreed upon between the heritors and the present incumbent, as awarded by the Court of Teinds in Ja- nuary 1835, for crop 1834 and thereafter, is sixteen chalders of victual, half meal and half barley, with L. 10 for communion ele- ments. The first minister recorded in the session books of the parish is the Rev. John Blythe. He succeeded Mr Fergushill* on the 27th * The foUowing memoranda, respecting the late Rev. John Fergushill, were sent to by me W. J. Duncan, Esq. of Glasgow. " He was the son of David Ferg^hill, a merchant at, and for some time provost of, Ayr ; and of Janet Kennedy, the sister or near relation of Hugh Kennedy, pro« vost of Ayr, the * same excellent person whom Livingston mentions in bis Charac- teristics.* John Fergushill received the first part of his academical education at the University of Edinburgh, where he remained for three years, but the plague having caused a temporary interruption of his studies, his fatiher resolved to send him to France to be educated at the Protestant Academy of Montaubao, where the well- knoWn Robert Boyd of Trochrig was then a professor. ** His father's wish was, that his studies should be superintended by Boyd, who was bis relation or conneciion ; but I have not been able to ascertain whether he ever en. tered upon his education there. He appears to have resided ibr some time with GiU bert Primrose, the minister of the Protestant Church at Bourdeaux, but as tbe plague reached that place in the early part of the next year, (1605,) he probably de- termined on returning to Scotland. By a letter to Boyd dated September 1050, we find him residing at home. For several years after thu period, he seems to have remained in great uncertainty, as to the course which he should adopt, having, on the one hand, the opportunity of following out his father's business of a merchant, and. on tbe other, the desire to study for the ministry, which seems to have been in a great de* eree rendered impossible by the weakly state of his constitution. In December 1608, lie wrote to Boyd, requesting his advice : from his letter it appears that his health had so much improved that he was able to prosecute his education, but a dif- fidence of hu own ability for the profession which he had so long desired, still hana* sed him, and kept him in doubt. I do not know what answer Boyd returned, or by what means Fergushill's resolution was ultimately fixed. His name appears twice in the register of matriculations of the University of Glasgow, first in Mandi \60by and second in 161 1. About three years afterwards, (July 31, 1616,) the presbytery of Glasgow * ordanit that Messrs John Haye, Thomas Boyde, Jhone Fer/guMUt for thair farther qualificatioune befoir admisssioune tb ye holie ministrie luld mak ane lang lessoune upone some place of Scripture, and sustain the disput upon some oon- trovertet held,' and Fergushill had for his subject, 2 Cor. I. 12. his oontroversie, De bonis Operibus. On September 11, 1616, it is recorded that these * nudde thair Lattein lessouns upon the texts befoir prescribed.' From this period 1 have met with no notice of Fergushill till march 1620, when, as minister of Ochiltree, he was cited before the Court of High Commission, at Glasgow, for non-oonfi»nnity to the Perth articles. He declined the jurisdiction of the court, and was suspended and sentenced to confinement within tbe town of Perth, but,, by the good offices of Trochrig and Mr OCHILTREK. 1 15 May 1641. And the following is a list of the gentlemen who have since been ministers : The Rev. Robert Miller ; the Rev. Matthew Cooper, admitted from Lilliesleaf in 1695; and afterwards translated to Kinfauns; the Rev. Samuel Lockhart, who died in 17*24; the Rev, George Reid, who was ordained on the 16th June 1725, and died on the 6th April 1786; the Rev. David Grant, admitted from Ettrick in December 1786; the Rev, Wil- liam Thomson, who was ordained in April 1 792 ; the Rev. John Lindsay, admitted from Auchinleck in June 1818; and the pre- sent incumbent, who was admitted from Auchinleck on the 18th April 183a The inhabitants of this parish are very regular in their attend - ance at church. By the last census taken in 1831, the population amounted to 1562, and on an average throughout the year, a con- gregation, from about 800 to 900 persons, assembles on the Sabbath day in the house of God. With the exception of five or six families, all the parishioners belong to the Establishment, and even of those families, some are in full communion with the church. There are 764 communicants. Collections are occasionally made for religious purposes, at home and abroad ; and although there are no residing heritors, the regular collections for the poor amount to about L. 62 Steriing yearly. From Whitsunday 1834 to Whitsunday 1835, they amounted to L. 68; and in the year that closed, Whitsunday 1836, to L. 75 — shewing a gradual increase very creditable to the people. Education. — There are two schools in the parish. The paro- chial school in the village is attended by about 100 scholars, and the branches taught are, English reading, grammar, writing, arith- metic, Latin, Greek, and geography. The salary is the maximum, and the schoolmaster receives the produce of a mortification, (left by Mr Patrick Davidson, on the lands of Shield, in the parish of Stair,) that yields L. 6, 3s. 4d. yearly. The school fees for read- John Chalmers, the last part of his sentence was modified, and he was allowed to re- turn to his parish of Ochiltree, under certain restrictions. Little is known of him for many years afler this time. He seems to have continued to preach notwithstand- ing his suspension, for we find* from the records of the kirk-session of Ayr, that he supplied the kirk with a sermon, ' and held session there January 10, 1625,' the pa- rish being then vacant. He was appointed minister of Ayr in August 1639, on the translation of Mr Robert Blair to St Andrews^ and was received by the Presbytery in the following November. Nothing of importance is recorded of him after that time, exoept the administration of the Solemn League and Covenant to his people, which was performed with great solemnity in November 1643. He died on the 1 1th of June 1644. ** The works from which the preceding memoranda ate taken are, the records of the Presbytery and University of Glasgow, and Wodrow*s MS. Lives of John Fer- gushill and Robert Boyd of Trochrig ; the latter of which is at present in prepara- tion for the press under my care.**— W. J. D. 116 AYRSHIRE. ing English and grammar are 2s. a quarter ; with writing added to the above branches, 2s. 6d. ; with writing and arithmetic added, ds. ; with Latin, 5s., and for geography, &c. no extra charge is made. The amount received by the teacher yearly may be L. 30 : he has also L. 6 a year as session-clerk. There is a private school at Sinclairston, on the west side of the parish, without any salary at- tached to it, and usually attended by about 40 scholars. The inhabitants of this parish are very much alive to the advantages of education. They make every effort to send their children to school, and though some of them have to go a considerable dis- tance, they are regular in their attendance. There are no children in the parish above eight years who cannot read, and there is good reason to believe, that a single grown up person of a sound mind cannot be found who is not able both to write and to read. Since the appointment of the present teacher, Mr Patrick Simson, to his charge, which was forty-five years ago, many have gone forth from the school of Ochiltree who now occupy respectable stations in society, as ministers, doctors, merchants, &e. whose attain- ments i-eflect much credit upon the instructor of their youth. There is a small library connected with the parish school. Some time ago, there were three friendly societies in the parish ; but as they were founded upon erroneous calculations, they did not answer the purposes for which they were instituted, and they are now given up altogether. There is a savings bank, which was esta- blished in the year 183), and is found to be a great benefit to trades-people, farm-servants, &c* Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are generally about twenty persons on the poor's roll, who receive a stated monthly allowance of from 4s. to 8s., according to their individual circumstances, with a part of their house rent paid. There are many more who receive occasional aid in money and coals. The sum distributed amounts to about L. 1 14 yearly, which is made up by collections in the church L. 62; by proclamations and mortcloth, L. 2; by a* volun- tary contribution from the heritors, L. 50, — last year it amounted to L. 127. The burden of providing for three insane persons who are taken care of in the village presses very heavy upon the funds, and accounts for the largeness of the sum annually expended* The persons on the roll are generally old and infirm. They never resort to public begging. They do all they can for theaiselves, and trust to the help given by the kirk-session, and to the spon- taneous charity of their neighbours and friends. The inhabitants of this parish having determined, about three years ago, not to supply vagrants, contributed a small sum to pro- OCHILTREE. 117 cure lodging for the night, and a little bread, to persons who were found, upon strict inquiry, to be in want Whilst by this arrange- ment, provision was made for the really needy wanderer to help him on his way, the artful impostor, who was wont to make a lucrative trade of begging, found the sources of his gain cut off, and was led, in some instances at least, to abandon his improper calling altogether. For some months past, this rule has been de- parted from, and the consequence is, that vagrants are making their appearance in great numbers. It is desirable that all parishes should join in the adoption of some plan for putting an end to this great and crying evil. i^air*.-!— There are two fairs held in the village of Ochiltree dur- ing the year — the one on the second Wednesday of May, and the other on the first Tuesday of November. At these fairs, horses, and black-cattle of all kinds are sold, servants engaged, and such other matters transacted as are usually settled by farmers, &c. at similar meetings throughout the county. Inns and Alehouses. — There are six places of this description in the village, but none in any other part of tlie parish. These have had no visible effects upon the morals of the people. At the same time, it is much to be wished, that fewer of such houses were licen- sed. The opportunities and enticements which they offer to the idle and thoughtless for spending their evenings together, may lead to the most injurious consequences. Fuel — Coal is the principal artice of fuel. Some peats are used. The coals which are procured from Drongan, in the parish of Stair, and at Garallan, in the parish of Old Cumnock, cost at the pit about 5s. per ton, and the carriage of |i ton to the village is 6s. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the Statistical Account given by the Rev. William Thom- son, the parish roads have been very much improved, and a better and more regular system of cultivating the land has been adopted, firom which the best effects have followed. Great improvement has taken place in the stock of horses, cows, &c. and especially in the management of the dairy, which has given the very first place in the market to the cheese of this district The rental of the pa- rish has increased from about L.dOOO to L. 8176, 10s. Sterling, and the inhabitants undoubtedly enjoy, in a much greater degree^ what are usually considered the comforts of life. Much may be yet done in the way of improvement, by draining, fallowing, and planting, which in the course of a few years would be a great he^ nefit to the proprietors and tenants of the parish. Jt//yieS7. PARISH OF ST QUIVOX. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. STAIR M«QUHAE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The name of the parish is now generally written St Quivox, but sometimes St Evox. At an earlier period it appears always to have been written St Kevoch. The name is supposed to be derived from " Sancta Kennocka Virgo in Cailoy'* who lived in the reign of Malcolm IL, and was distinguished for her zeal in promoting monastic institutions. Extent^ Sfc. — The parish is about 5 miles in length, and 8 in breadth, and contains about 5000 acres. It is bounded on the south by the river Ayr, and on the east, north, and west, by the parishes of Tarbolton, Monkton, and Newton. Topographical Appearances. — In general, the surface of the pa- rish is level, but towards the eastern extremity it becomes more elevated and uneven. The temperature is mild, the snow scarcely ever lying more than two days. Westerly winds prevail, which bring frequent showers from the Atlantic. But the heavier rains are with a southerly wind, and with east wind the barometer al- most uniformly rises. The soil nearest the sea is generally light and sandy, with moss and clay dikes in particular parts. These parts are naturally wet from the clay beds which confine the springs ; and the small portion of higher land in the parish is a stiff clay soil. Geology and Mineralogy. — The geological and mineral cha- racter of the parish is of the order of stratified rocks belonging to the coal formation. The workable seams of coal intermediate with the other strata are only two, — the uppermost, a seam of about four feet in thickness, being tender and frangible, whilst the second seam, of nearly the same thickness, is very bard, and not easily broken, being of the quality termed splint-coal. The two seams are more than twenty fathoms from each other. These seams of coal arc the same which have been extensivelv worked ST QUIVOX. 119 in the adjoining parishes of Newton and Prestwick. In the pa- rish of St Quivox the uppermost seam of coal has been nearly ex- hausted by workings, which were carried on about fifty or sixty years ago. The lower seam has been only within these few years fitted, and there mav remain to be worked about 1000 acres. The coal field is tenninated on the north by a great diker or slip, which passes near the church of St Quivox, running in a direction nearly north-west; although trials have been made over this dike, no workable seam of coal has been found. There are no other mi- nerals in the parish which are considered to be of value* Yellow trout are found in the water of Ayr, and afibrd good sport to the angler, but there is no salmon fishery of any import- ance. The fruit trees are much infested by a small caterpillar, (Aphis laniffera^J of which the larvae appear to be deposited in the bud by the parent fly in autumn, and which destroys the blossom and leaves when they expand in spring, producing a devastation which is vulgarly called blight Of late years the young wheats and turnips have suffered greatly from the wire-worm, which attacks the roots in April and July, and often destroys the white crop. It prevails, chiefly in the dry light soils, and seems to be increased in the vicinity of the town by the use of ashes as manure. No adequate cure for the evil has been discovered ; but the con- suming of the turnip on the ground by sheep, by consolidating the soil, seems to impede the operations of this destructive insect The crows, larks, and pheasants, devour vast numbers of these worms, but they destroy also the young plants, by plucking them up in search of their prey. The crows in general discover the presence of the insect by the unhealthy appearance of the blade, and pull only the injured planL But when they happen to alight in great numbers and in a hungry state, upon a field of young turnips, which have recently been thinned, they frequently destroy the whole crop in a very short time. II. — Civil History. Land'-owners. — The principal land-owners are, Mr Oswald of Auchencniive; Mr Forbes of Callendar; Messrs Hunters and Com- pany, Bankers, Ayr ; and Mr Campbell' of Craigie. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers do not extend farther back than the year 1780, but since that period they have been kept with great regularity. Antiquities. — Several small earthen urns were lately discovered 120 AYRSHIRE. in levelling a sand-bank at Content, supposed to be Roman. . They are now in the possession of Dr Memos, Rector of the Ayr Aca- demy. There are spacious mansion-houses at Auchencruive and Qraigie. Both are finely situated on the banks of the Ayr, and the gardens and grounds at Auchencruive, laid out with much taste, are objects of attraction to strangers. 1 1 1. — POPULATI ON. In 1755 the population of the parish of St Quivox amounted to 499 souls. But soon after that period. Sir Thomas Wallace of Craigie began to feu at the bridge end of Ayr, and at present, besides an agricultural population of 1071, Wallacetown and Content contain 4277, making in all 5348 souls. This increase has arisen from the coal-works in the parish, and in the neigh- bouring parish of Newton, from the general growth of the ma- nufactures of the country, and from the demand for labourers, in consequence of agricultural improvements. The inhabitants of Wallacetown and Content belong chiefly to the poorer class of Irish settlers, and consist of colliers, labo^irers, and weavers em- ployed by the manufacturing houses in Glasgow and Paisley. There are also a considerable number of artisans, carters, publi- cans, and shopkeepers, besides an undue proportion of strangers from Ireland, who have only a precarious means of subsistence, and are induced to take up tl^eir temporary abode here, by the cheapness of lodging, and the liberaliiy of the public of Ayr in supplying their wants. There are only five proprietors of land, all of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, — and Mr Oswald and Mr Campbell are the only residing heritors. Kuraber of families in (he parish, - . . |]4^ chiefly employed in agriculture, - . \H2 trade, manufacture, or handicraft, 479 IV. — Industry. The whole of the parish is in tillage, with the exception of about 250 acres covered with plantations of various ages, consisting of the ordinary kinds of forest trees, which are carefully thinned, and are in a thriving condition. Bent — The average rent of land may be stated at about L. 2, 5s. per acre. The grazing of a milch cow is from L. 4 to L. 5 ; a two-year old ly. 2 ; a-year old L. 1, 10s. Live stock. — The Ayrshire breed of cattle are in general use, being preferred even for fattening, as it is believed that they rise to more weight in proportion to the food they consume, and are 3 8T QUI vox. 121 fit for the butcher at an earlier age than any other stock with which they have been compared. Eleven or twelve pounds is no uncommon price for bullocks sold to the butcher, in the month of April, then just two years old, and which have been well reared with milk, and fed during the winter with turnip. Only a few sheep, as pets, are bred in the parish, and those fed on turnip are generally of the black^faced kind, bred in the Highlands or Gal- loway. Husbandry. — Husbandry is in a flourishing state, and the land, in possession of a very intelligent and industrious tenantry, has of late years been much improved. On the light soils, which comprehend a large proportion of the parish, a 6ve years' rotation is generally observed: — 1. oats; 2. green ^ crop, consisting of turnips, potatoes, carrots or mangel-wurzel ; 3. wheat or barley ; 4. hay, or sown grasses pastured with sheep or cows ; 5. pasture. Manure for the green crops is purchased in Ayr at about Ss. per cart, but on the farms near the town, the inhabitants are allowed to plant their own potatoes with their manure. The farmer works the land, leads the manure, for which he is paid, and charges the cottager Is. per boll for potatoes produced, as rent. Turnips, chiefly Swedish, are the prevailing green crops. Of these one half are drawn to feed bullocks or dairy stock, and the other half are consumed on the ground by sheep. On the farm of Shields, si- tuated about four miles from Ayr, occupied by Mr J. Tenant, an extensive dairy has been substituted for the feeding of bullocks. About 60 cows are kept in the highest condition, being fed in the winter with boiled Swedish turnip, carrot, mangel-wurzel, and bean meal, and are always fit for the butcher when the milk fails. The whole of the milk is churned ;' the buttermilk sold in Ayr ; and the butter, which, by the mixture of a small quantity of salt- petre with the milk, has been entirely freed from any unpleasant turnip flavour, is carried to Edinburgh and Glasgow markets. On this farm the practice of feeding sheep on turnip, and pastur- ing' the sown grasses, instead of cutting hay, was first introduced into the parish ; and the land^ having now passed three or four times through the rotation on this system, is so much improved, that 60 milch cows are kept well on the same number of acres which, at the commencement, barely supported 40. The light soils in some parts kept in a marshy state by springs, have been dried by deep box drains covered with small stones ; and on the stifi* soils, the practice of furrow- draining, with 122 AYRSHIRE. small brick, stones, or tile, has come into general use. On the estate of Backhouse, above 15,000 falls of drains of various descriptions have been laid within the last two years. The expense is incurred by the proprietors, who indemnify themselves by a small additional rent, or receive assistance from the tenants in the leading of the materials. The leases of land are generally for nineteen years. On the estate of Auchencruive, the tenants are rarely changed, and the proprietor seeks rather to retain men of spirit and industry, and to enable them to cultivate the land with success, than to let the farm to the highest bidder. The farm-buildings in the whole of the pa- rish are commodious and in good repair ; and the thorn hedges, which form the enclosures, are well kept, and have been gradually improving by the practice which prevails of dressing them when green, with the hedge*hook, in the month of August. Quarries. — There are several quarries of excellent freestone in the parish, and three coal-pits constantly worked, which produce coal of good quality. Produce. — The amount of raw produce raised in the parish may be stated as follows : Produce of grain of all kinds, being 480 acres of wheat at L. 11 , and 566 acres of oats at L. 8, lOs. per acre, Green crop, naVy • • • • ■ Land in pasture at L. 2 per acre, Gardens and orchards, .... Thinning and felling of wood, .... Produce of coal mines and quarries, L.23598 In the above statement grass lands are estimated at too low a rate, as they actually produce much more with dairy stock than if they were employed in grazing at the usual rate of cattle. It is difficult, however, to render this part of the estimate more accurate, as the produce of the dairy stock arises also from the consumption of turnip, carrot, potatoes, &c which are already valued sepa- rately. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town. — The whole of the parish being near to Ayr, and the most populous part of it forming a suburb of that town, it en* joys the advantage of a convenient market for all commodities, and of a daily post The thriving village of Whitelets is situated a mile and a-half from Ayr, and the roads from Ayr to Mauchline and to Gralston, which are kept in excellent repair, pass through the whole L. 10091 4704 1150 3018 100 1190 8405 ST QUIVOX. 123 length of the parish. There is also a railroad from Whitelets to the harbour of Ayr, for the conveyance of coal. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church was built before the Reformation, but was repaired and enlarged about twelve years ago, and now affords good accommodation for nearly 500 sitters. It is situated near the centre of the parish ; but the mass of the popu- lation, being at one extremity, are three miles distant from the church, in which they have no accommodation. To remedy this evil, which had been long felt by that large portion of the inha- bitants of Wallacetown who belong to the Established Church, a chapel was built by subscription in that district in the year 1835, which affords accommodation to nearly 900 sitters. The General Assembly granted a constitution to this chapel in the year 1836, and Wallacetown has since been disjoined quoad sacra from the parish of St Quivox, and erected into a separate parish. The Rev. John Alexander was ordained minister of Wallacetown by the presbytery of Ayr in the same year ; and the whole of the sit- tings in the new church are already let— chiefly to parishioners. An excellent manse was built in the parish of St Quivox in the year 1823. The glebe consists of four acres, which may be va- lued at a yearly rent of L. 10 ; and the stipend, which was aug- mented in 1835, consists of 18 chalders. There are in Wallacetown an Antiburgher meeting-house, an United Secession church, a reformed Presbyterian meeting-house, a small Independent church, a small Episcopal chapel, and a handsome Roman Catholic chapel. The congregations attending the places of worship assemble from this and eight or nine of the surrounding parishes. The ministers are paid chiefly from the seat-rents, but the exact amount of stipends cannot be ascertained. The number of femilies in the parish belonging to the different religious denominations is as follows : — Established Church, 724 families; Roman Catholics, 125; Relief, 112; United Secession church, 71 ; Antiburghers, 40 ; Episcopalian, 20 ; Reformed Pres- bytery, 25; Methodists, 18; Independents, 6; Moravians, 3; Universalists, 2 ; total, 1 146 families. The Established Church is well attended by the agricultural po- pulation, who alone have seats ; and the collections for charitable purposes amount to about L. 50 per annum. Education. — There are one parochial and eight unendowed schools in the parish, in which Latin, mathematics, book-keep- ing, arithmetic^ geography, reading, and writing are taught. The 4 1^4 AYRSHIRE. parochial teacher has all the legal accommodations, with a salary of L. 30 per annum. The other teachers are supported solely by fees. The expense of education varies from 12s. to L.1, 2s. per annum, according to the advancement of the pupil. -The whole of the native population can read ; but there are some of the Irish settlers, and a few of the younger members of their families, who have not been instructed in reading. In general, education is sought after; and the Sabbath schools, of which there are several^ are well attended, and have occasioned a visible improvement in the moral habits of the poorer classes. There is a small parochial library lately established ; but, with regard to this and the other branches of parochial economy, it may be observed, that, owing to their close vicinity to Ayr, many of the parishioners avail themselves of the schools, mechanics' institutions, libraries, and religious associations established in that town, while they enjoy the benefits of the dispensary and savings bank for Ayr, Newton, and Wallacetown. Friendly Societies. — Several friendly societies have existed in the parish ; but it generally happens, that when the weekly assessment in support of their funds increases much, in conseqr.ence of age, infirmity, or prevailing sickness amongst the members, these insti- tutions are broken up. In order to remedy this defect incident to all such societies in which the weekly contribution varies, and in times of exigency rises to an amount inconvenient for the mem- bers, a funded female friendly society was established a few years since under the patronage of Lady Lilias Oswald, to which the ordinary members pay a regular quarterly assessment of Is. 2d., and receive an aliment of 4s. per week in sickness, besides an allowance for marriage and funeral expenses. There are a number of ho- norary members who contribute a higher rate, with the view of giving effect to the institution ; and as there is (chiefly owing to the liberality of the patroness) a stock of about L. 320, it is hoped that the funds will be able to meet the increased demand upon them, which must be expected, as the present members be- come aged and infirm. Poor. — There are about 80 regular and temporary paupers on the roll, who receive at an average Is. per week, — 10s. being the highest, and Is. 6d. the lowest monthly allowance. For the last twenty years, there has been an assessment for the support of the poor, which is levied on the real rent of land and houses, one-half payable by the proprietors, and the other half by the occupiers. ST QUI VOX. 125 From the year 1812, the annual expenditure for the poor had gradually increased till the year 1822, for which year it amounted to L. 383, the assessment being at the rate of 7id. per pound Sterling of real rent. From the year 1823, the expenditure has gradually decreased till the year 1830, when it amounted to L.219, and the assessment for this current year, 1831, has been fixed at 5d, per pound on land, and 4d. per pound on houses,* — an inferior rate being levied on houses, in consideration of the perishable na- ture of that description of property. There is unfortunately little disposition in the parish to abstain from asking parochial relief; and the facts stated above afford a practical refutation of the as- sertion which has been so frequently made, that the expense of the poor must of necessity increase whenever funds for their sup- port are raised by legal assessment. Owing to the influx of poor Irish, it would be difficult to find in Scotland a place more abound- ing in pauperism than Wallacetown ; and in the present most un- fair and injurious state of the law of settlement, the expenditure of the poor can only be kept within reasonable bounds by a strict application of the funds to the relief of those aged and infirm per- sons and infants for whom the law provides, and whose claims to parochial aid is the same, whether the funds for their support are derived from legal assessment or voluntary contribution. Itms. — The number of public houses in the parish is unreason- ably great. This no doubt arises from the great demand for ar- dent spirits which already exists ; but it is obvious that the increase of those houses, by the facilities thus afforded for the indulgence of intemperance, must aggravate the evil. Fuel. — There is abundance of coal in the parish and neigh- bourhood, which is sold at the pits from 6s. to 9s. per ton, accord- ing to the distance from the harbour of Ayr, where it is shipped for the Irish market. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the date of the last Statistical Account, the state of agri- culture is prodigiously improved, and the greater portion of the parish now resembles a well cultivated garden. The population has increased threefold, and the rental of land is more than doubled. * Since 1 83 1, the expenditure for the poor has gradually inereased. Drawn up in 1831 — Revised July 1837. PARISH OF SORN. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JOHN STEWART, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The parish of Sorn, in all likelihood, derives its name frotn the Celtic word Sorrij signifying a snout, projection, or dis- agreeable visage, and may have been so called from the projection, promontory^ or eminence, on which the castle stands. In Alex* ander and Donald Stewart's Collection of the Highland Bards, we find a song addressed to a gentleman dwelling in a fiirm in Mull, called Sorn. In the parish of Morven, and on the side of Loch- Sunart, there is a farm situated on an eminence called Soma. There is also a place in Cornwall where the Celtic language was spoken until the beginning of last century, and in some instances preached, called Some. The original name of the parish was Dal- gain, (the ground on which the church, manse, and glebe stand, having been a grant from the late Hugh Mitchell, Esq. of Dal- gain,) and is supposed to have been changed in consequence of the vicinity of Sorn Castle, an ancient seat of the Loudon family, to the church. Dalgain, like Sorn, is of Celtic origin, being evidently derived from Dal and ffaineimk, the 6eld of sand or gravel, — a name strikingly descriptive of the soil on which the old house of Dalgain stands. Extent and Boundaries. — Sora is nearly a square, whose side is about 6^ miles, and is intersected by the river Ayr. It is bound- ed on the east, by the parish of Muirkirk ; on the west, by the parish of Mauchline ; on the north, by the parish of Galston ; and on the south, by the parish of Auchinleck. Topographical Appearances. — The external appearance of the parish is considerably diversified by its rising grounds, and its level holms on the banks of the Ayr, as well as by the large extent of moors and mosses which adjoin the land now under cultivation, and which have been greatly improved of late years. The only hill of any considerable height in the parish is Blackside-end, situated on the SORN. 127 north-east boundary of the parish, from whose summit, which has been rated at about 1500 or 1600 feet above the level of the sea, there is in clear weather a very extensive view ; some individuals maintaining that no less than sixteen counties may be seen from it. The scenery along the banks of the Ayr is remarkably picturesque, and is peculiarly so about Sorn Castle and the manse. Meteorology* — The climate may in general be characterized as healthy, although, as in the greater part of the west of Scotland, there are frequent and heavy falls of rain. The prevailing winds are the west and south-west Snow seldom falls to any consider- able depth, and when it does &11, remains only a very short time upon the ground. The following extract for the last three years from a meteoro- logical table kept at the Catrine works may serve to convey a very accurate idea of the climate : — 128 AYRSHIRE. 1 'atttWH Uios JV • ••••• •■ _^ _; r-so-'a'O — ec©i«eo««w M 'osaK i»qftH ■)iaA07 I 1 I'S en 'U«9N •J»q9!H *)ldM07 e I f- ' B. ho o '2 O -a o c a 8 s •ossK s • • • • • • • ^« • • • • gncdOoc:c)0»A0dSio «N 'M « "N -M ^ T-l 'N "N 'N CO I xa • I s OS a*K W © -^ ©I "^ M 80 •K ei — « — p^r^t^ 'M'S I 9< kO iQ(0• "M M o 09 C5 90 91 iooo©aooO"«^eieor«'« ■^t ao lO ooeeoeoeo — t^iom ■ •••••••»•••• 09;8eo — eo — eo-^iosoTTO* CO • 80 ooeiome»oioeoeic — eS — o»ov««x — '» — r* wort— 'Oo*^co— ieoo"v©« 1 CI 80 99eKdto«ooeeoor«ei-^ ia*oia^cot^r»r«^iOicio a»5S® — oo».o'«ooTr;o;aA s gl ;e — -T^iojco — — ©— «^v _■ ^» ^» • • • ^_« • • • • 0©S©C60S©S©0© eO«9O«?i?09O« -.009^50 Gl u O n^r«8SC0Q0«099r<»OiO«(t Pr«»eoMMe090A95o)© OOQOOOOe^OdAOtOOXQOA 'MCie4'N 3 C «:= ►»« alvB^S Q I « § r? s ^'S 3 ^ ^ « « J J? dOOroiQiOM ^ 00 A -N« coosaor^^io — "^ro^ — w — CI — N « -« i-* — r<«©» t*« c« lO .lO ro a © 09 09 s — ©1 09 W "* CO — «D OCO'^SOa»CSCOt^CO^QO«D S 90 — ■* 09 Ol •-< 00 » — t»co £1 CO CO 09 "*00 ^ ..»»oio9ri — — — — ^ sa — •O70'«oao:wi^io«9c>« § s SORN. 129 u 'Eb IS a €0 O a aios IV »V S S S ^ A :s fi;rS 2! S S S • • • _• _• • • • « • • • i. 1l u •«n»K to 40 CO «o qs iQ s 1«M»!H ■^ "^ •© eo O ^ eo tO o •o t« r« ro i<* CO COiQ Wd *)S3ii07 1 *iraaH » lO o ■« -V iid lO *« iO •e e ea eon 94 r^r*04 •C us lO «o;o3« SSSS V Ss lO •1»U«tH S2 e* CO CO «e QO M o o •« 04 90 r* 2 9? QO lid r|»9M07 00 80 lO lO O »fd t^0» e s o»«e QD QD lO iQ tQ lO in9|f QD CO 00 O) o> A 91 91 e« ee ^ kA cc CO «5 w •Q 90 iQ 93 Od A 91 91 ?l T»q*jH SS^ O) o« o W "* — 8g* ei CO 00 ^ co8« 9« ao M • • • O OdO CO 91 00 *)a9Aoq 3 I i •a*N •AT 13 » «o CO — (O 00 00 oo 91 »09it«^r*is«^— -*COO»^«'^t^0^iOt»tO-V r J-fi J : : : S iJ S ATIU 130 AYRSHIRE. Hydrography, — The only river in the parish is the Ayr, which, entering at its eastern extremity, runs through it in a westerly di- rection. This river, whose bed is of round stones and gravel, rises . in the parish of Muirkirk, and is considerably increased in its course by the Greenock and Garpel, two rivulets which run into it about six miles from its source, as well as by several streamlets, which, now that furrow- draining has been so generally introduced into this country, immediately after a heavy fall of rain, swell the Ayr into an immense body of water. The usual velocity of this river is about a mile an hour, but when swelled by a heavy &ll of rain, or the melting of snow on the neighbouring hills, its velocity is increased to six or seven miles an hour. The scenery along its banks, which in many places are steep and bold, is remarkably pic- turesque and beautiful. There are several burns of water in the pa- rish, the principal of which is the Cleuffk, which runs into the Ayr close by Sorn Castle. This burn, which passes through a deep glen finely wooded on each side, though on a small scale, exhibits in some points scenery not greatly inferior to the much admired scenery at the Falls of the Clyde. Here are to be found beautiful specimens of what is commonly called petrified fog, or. more properly calc- tuff, which are generally attached to the precipice, where it is form- ed by the deposition of the carbonate of lime, held in solution by the water which oozes from the rock upon the moss with which it is covered. Geology J Soil, ifc. — The primitive rocks do not make their ap- pearance in the parish in situ^ although the debris of several va- rieties of granite is found in abundance in the diluvial deposit The whole district, however, is rich in the more useful minerals of the secondary formation, and is chiefly remarkable for the very exten- sive beds of limestone which are found on both sides of the river, and which have been wrought for economical purposes during a century. Coal seams also occur to some extent in the parish, and at no great distance under the surface. In the same locality, seams of clay ironstone (alternating with slate-clay) are found in very great abundance, and are said to contain a very large per centage of metal. The ironstone has never been fused on the spot; but some years ago a considerable quantity was made use of by the Muirkirk Iron Company at their Vorks, about eight miles higher up the river. Strata of sandstone of considerable variety of struc- ture are also found in the vicinity of the coal, and towards the west- ern part of the parish, where the coal and lime disappear, the SORN. 131 sandstone becomes less indurated, and better fitted for being wrought into building stones. In the holms, on the banks of the river Ayr, the soil is of a gravellish nature. On the higher ground it is generally reddish clay, and near the hills it assumes a mossy character until it ter- minates in moss. Underneath parts of this. moss, however, there is in many places a substratum of clay, which, when ploughed up and mixed with a liberal portion of lime, produces excellent crops of oats and a beautiful sward of grass. Zoology. — There are no rare animals found in the parish. There is in it a great abundance of hares and rabbits. It is only with- in these few years that rabbits first made their appearance in the parish in a wild state, but to such an extent have they increased, as in several instances to prove injurious to the crops and planta- tions. The fox, polecat, and weasel, white and brown, are all to' be met with in the parish. The adder abounds in the moors and mosses. Birds of all kinds peculiar to the district abound in the parish. In consequence of the great additions which have been made to the plantations of late years, the number of birds has greatly in- creased, and they are now very destructive to the farms and gar- dens. Game birds of all kinds are also to be found in great numbers in the moors, fields, and plantations. Of late, there has been a great increase of pheasants, which are now frequently to be seen running upon the public roads in considerable numbers. Black*cock too have increased lately on the high grounds, but have not, as in other districts, displaced the red grouse, which still abound in the parish. The firesh water trout, which at one time abounded in the river Ayr, but which had for a number of years disappeared in conse- quence of the tar-works at Muirkirk, now that these works have been discontinued, have again returned, and are caught in abun- dance in the Ayr, as it flows through Sorn and the adjacent pa- rishes. Botany. — There is nothuig in the botany of this parish worthy of particular notice. An eminent botanist, who examined its vege- table productions lately, was unable to discover any plants but such as are to be found in other districts ; the appearance and vegetable productions of the banks of the Ayr, from Sorn village to Catrine, being in his opinion similar to those of the banks of the Esk on the east coast 132 AYRSHIRE. Woods and Plantations^ Sfc. — A vast addition has been made to the plantations in the parish^ since the last Statistical Account was written. At that time there were but few trees and no plan* tations, save those which had been planted in the immediate neigh- bourhood of Sorn Castle by the late Countess Dowager of Lou- don. This distinguis|)ed lady, after having lived for a considerable time at the courts of Queen Anne and George L, took up her re- sidence at Sorn Castle in 17279 when she commenced, and car- ried on with wonderful activity and skill, till within a short period of her death, those improvements in hedging and planting which to this day adorn the surrounding landscape. The good work commenced by the Countess of Loudon has been followed up by the present possessor of Sorn Castle, Mrs A. Somervell, who, with great taste and judgment, has laid off extensive plantations and beautiful hedges, not merely in the vicinity of the castle, but to a considerable distance along the roads leading to Galston and Mauchline, and also on the higher lands of the parish. These plantations are in a very thriving condition, and will soon prove an ornament and a shelter to this once bleak and dreary district of country. Besides those on Sorn Castle estate, there are about 100 acres of very thriving plantations on the estate of Dalgain, now also the property of Mrs A. Somervell,' which were laid off about twenty years ago by a former proprietor, the late Mr Ste- venson, and have tended materially to improve the land, and have added much to the beauty of the scenery. There are also seve- ral plantations of smaller extent on other properties in the parish. Larch and Scotch fir are the predominating trees in these planta« tions, although there is also in them a proportion of oak, ash, elm, beech, and birch. It is much to be regretted, however, that a greater quantity of hard-wood has not been planted in these and in other plantations in this district of the country, and, when plant- ed, that care has not been taken to cut down in time the firs and larches. Had attention been paid to this, many plantations in Ayrshire, which are now in a state of decay, would have be^n in a high state of preservation. IL — Civil History. Land-owners. — There are no less than twenty heritors in the parish ; of these, Mrs A. Somervell of Sorn Castle and Dalgain, patroness and proprietress of about two-fifths of the parish ; Miss Gray Farquhar of Gilmillscroft ; Robert Campbell, Esq. of Auch- mannoch; George Rankin, Esq. of Burn head; Archibald Bucha- SORN. 133 nan, Esq. of Catrine Bank ; Lieut-Colonel Stewart of Catrine ; and four other small proprietors, are resident. The non-residing heritors are, the Duke of Portland ; the Marquis of Bute ; Sir James Boswell, Bart, of Auchinleck ; William Campbell, Esq. of Fairfield; Lieut •Colonel M^Adam Cathcart of Craigengillan ; Claud Alexander, Esq. of Ballochmyle ; William Campbell, Esq. of Nether Place ; Thomas Falconer, Esq. of Auchencloigh ; Miss Innes of Stow ; and Alexander Murdoch, Esq. of Briggs. Antiquities, — There is nothing particularly worthy of being no- ticed under this head, except Sorn Castle. This castle, which stands upon a rock overhanging the river Ayr, and within a short distance of the church and manse, is supposed to have been erect- ed at a very early period, but by whom is unknown. There is, however, a tradition, that the labourers who were engaged in build- ing it had their option either of a peck of meal or l^d. per day. The following short but well-authenticated narrative of its proprie- tors was communicated to Dr Gordon, the eloquent and benevo- lent writer of the last Statistical Account of the parish : ^^ About the year 1406, the lands of Sorn, with several others in the dis- trict of Kyle, were acquired by Andrew Hamilton, third son of Sir David Hamilton of Cadzow, ancestor to the Duke of Hamilton. This Andrew Hamilton married Agnes, a daughter of Sir Hugh Campbell, Sheriff of Ayr, and by him had a son. Sir Robert Ha- milton of Sorn and Sanquhar. Sir Robert married a daughter of Sir William Crawfurd of Loch Norris ; and Sir William Hamil- ton of Sorn and Sanquhar, a son of this marriage, was one of the Senators of the College of Justice, and Lord Treasurer to King James V. This Lord Treasurer married a daughter of the fami- ly of Cassillis, by whom he had an heiress, Isobel Hamilton, who married George Lord Seaton, and by him was mother to Robert, first Earl of Winton, to Alexander, first Earl of Dunfermline, and Margaret, the wife of Claud Hamilton, Lord Paisley, ancestor to the Earl of Abercorn. The lands of Sorn were sold by the suc- ceeding Earl of Winton to the family of Loudon, and, after re- maining in this family upwards of 150 years, they were sold to William Tennent, Esq. of Poole, in 1782." Sorn Castle and estate, after being a short time in the possession of Mr Tennent, were sold by him to Mr Graham of Limekilns and Mr Stevenson of Dalgain, from whom they were purchased by the family of the present proprietrix about forty years ago. Sorn Ciastle was one of those places belonging to private individuals which Charles IL, in 134 AYRSHIRE. virtue of an obsolete act, took possession of, and which, amid the severe struggle made during the latter part of his reign by the Presbyterians for their privileges, was provided with a garrison and a governor for the purpose of overawing them,* Parochial Registers. — The parish registers commence in 1:692, when Mr Mungo Lindsay was ordained minister of the pa- rish, and have since been regularly kept The register of bap- tisms is not by any means complete, as parents belonging to diffe- rent dissenting bodies frequently neglect the registration of their children. Care, however, is taken to enforce this duty on parents belonging to the Establishment There is no record of deaths, although the minister, in the course of his visitations, is in the ha- bit of taking an exact account of them. Eminent Men. — The only person of eminence to whom this pa^ rish gave birth was Mr Alexander Peden, — a name familiar to the people of Scotland, and particularly so to the people of this district. The place of his birth, which happened in 1626, has been disput- ed, — some maintaining that it was at the farm of Auchencloigh, others that it was in one of the small cottages, which, in the re- membrance of persons now living, stood not far from Sorn Castle. Mr Peden having received at the University the education which was necessary to qualify him for the oflBce of the holy ministry, was for some time parish schoolmaster, precentor, and session-clerk at Tarbolton, and, according to Wodrow, precentor also at Fenwick, In 1663, he was settled minister of New Luce, in Galloway, but in about three years afterwards, he was, like other eminent servants of God in those troublous and persecuting times, forced to aban- don a flock most ardently and devotedly attached to him. From the time of his being thrust out of New Luce, he wandered about from place to place, sometimes in Scotland, and sometimes in Ire- land, till June 167d^ when he was seized in Carrick, and conveyed from thence to Edinburgh. After undergoing a series of hard- * A great eitent of judicial power seems to have been vested in these goyemors, as appears from a document now in the possession of Robert Campbell, Esq. of Auchmannoch, of which the following is a copy : " God save the King. <' I, Lewis Lauder, Govemour of Sorn Castle, dow heirby oertifie and declare, vis. ■ Kirkwood, servitor to Arthour Campbell of Auchmannoch, in the parish of Some, did compeir before me, on solemn oadi before Almightie God, did abjure and renounce the late tratours iqspoUogeticall declaration, in so far as it declares war against his Mattie (Mtyesty,) and asserts that it is lawful to kill all such as serve his Mattie in church, state, armie, or contrie, conform to his Mijestie's late proclama- tion of the do duye of Deer. last. " Given at Some, the aught day of February 1685 zicrs. << Lkwis Laudbr." 80RN. 135 ships of various kinds, and being cruelly treated in various ways, he returned to Scotland, which he reached in 1685, — the year when the persecution raged hottest in this and other districts of the country. At the imminent risk of his life, yet under the guid- ance and protection of a gracious God, who wrought out many signal deliverances for him, he visited different districts' of Ayr- shire and Galloway, preaching, and warning men in the most solemn manner of the awful judgments which the Lord, in conse- quence of the impenitency and apostacy of the people of Scotland, would at no very distant period bring upon them. At length worn out and exhausted, and apprehensive that his latter end was draw- ing nigh, he returned to his brother's house in this parish. But ^as Sorn Castle, in the immediate neighbourhood of which it was si* tuated, had, as has been already stated, a garrison of soldiers and . a governor for the purpose of overawing the people of the surround- ing district, and of bringing such leading men as Peden to condign punishment, he was aware that his arrival would soon become known, and that, unless he had some place of concealment, he must be detected. For this purpose, he caused a cave to be dug, and there he was in the habit of hiding himself. Though every moment in danger of being laid hold upon, he paid frequent visits to his friends, and uttered many prophecies respecting the fate which awaited the church and people of Scotland. On his death- bed, Peden was visited by James Renwick, that eminent saint and servant of Gt)d, and last martyr to the cause of civil and re- ligious liberty in Scotland, whose presence was a great source of comfort and refreshment to his spirit After having very narrow- ly escaped detection from his persecutors, who had searched every place in and about his brother's house for him, he died there in 1686, in the sixtieth year of his age. The laird of Auchinleck, who was favourable to the Presbyterian cause, allowed Mr Peden's re- mains to be deposited in the family burial-place within the church of Auchinleck. But the spirit of persecution, which raged with such fury in this district of Scotland at this period, followed Mr Peden even to his grave. Forty days after his burial, his corpse was raised by a troop of dragoons, with the intention, it is believed, of hanging it in chains on the gallows* at Cumnock. But this act of barbarity on the part of Mr Peden's persecutors was pre- vented through the intercession of the Countess of Dumfries and the Lady of the Laird of Affleck, and the dead body was taken down and re-interred at the foot of the gallows. Such, however, 136 AYRSHIRE. was the veneration in which the memory of this good man was held by the people of the surrounding district, that, in selecting a piece of burying-ground for the parish of Cumnock, the spot where Mr Peden's ashes lay was made choice of for the purpose, se that these now lie in the church-yard of Cumnock. Dr Matthew Stewart, late Professor of Mathematics in the Uni- versity of Edinburgh, and so well known over all Europe for his original genius and high attainments in geometrical science, though not a native, was a frequent visitor in the parish. At his death his property came into the possession of his son, the late Professor Dugald Stewart, one of the most distinguished metaphysicians of his day. Though not generally resident in the parish, in the ear- lier and more advanced period of his life. Professor Dugald Stewart spent a portion of his time in it The house which he occupied still stands ; and individuals stiU speak with delight of his unwearied benevolence, of his kindness and condescension to all who came within the sphere of his influence, particularly to those who he knew had been the objects of his &ther^s regard* Professor Stewart was succeeded, as an heritor of the parish, by his son. Lieutenant- Colonel Matthew Stewart, a distinguished soldier and an accomplished scholar. Ou' a very commanding situation on his property, and at a short distance fix>m the house which was occupied by his father, he has built a new dwelling-house, and laid off the grounds about it with great taste.* III. — Population. According to Dr Webster's account, the population of the pari&h in 177^1 vas - . . 1474 in 1797^ the date of the last Statistical Accoiint, 2779 Makt, Female*. By Government census, 1801, . 124S, - 1363, - 2606 1811, . 1462, - 1886, - 3348 1821, . 1725, - 2140, - 3865 1831, . 1900, . 2353, - 4253 At the end of 1886, - 1843, - 2277, • 4120 State of population in 1836. Males. Fetnalet 1 to 15, 815 824 15 to 30, 436 658 30 to 50, 352 507 50 to 70, 194 222 above 70, 47^ 1848 66-2277 * There is a well authenticated tradidon, that King James V. visited Som Castle on the occasion of the marriage of the daughter of his Treasurer, Sir William Hamil- ton, to Lord Seaton. It is generally believed, that it was while he was on this visit that his Migesty sat down by a well, about half-way between Glasgow and Som, to re- fresh himself, and hence the name ** King*s WeU" was given to iu 80RN. 137 Married. Males, - - 560 Females, - - 561 Widowers, - - d9 Widows, . T 184 Numbar of fiimilies in the parish, 846, averaging about 4^ to each family* Yearly average of births for the last seven years, - 120 registered, - - . 96 deaths about ... 68 marriages, - - . 32 There are no insane persons in the parish. There are two fa- tuous, and one deaf and dumb. The rapid increase of the popu- lation from 1775 to 1831, arose from the establishment of the cot- ton manufactory at Catrine, in 1792, by the late Claud Alexan- der, Esq. of Ballochmyle, and the late David Dale, Esq. ; and the decrease from 1831 to 1836 has arisen chiefly from the improve- ments which have taken place in machinery, by means of which, in some departments of that establishment, fewer persons are re- quired. In the country part of the parish, and in the village of Sorn, the population has varied little since the date of the last Statistical Account in 1797. Then it was 1429, and at the end of 1836, 1418, the difference being only 11 during that period. In the cotton manufactory, and in the bleachfield at Catrine, there are 913 persons employed, of whom 315 are males and 598 females. There are besides in the parish, 1 auctioneer; 1 land-surveyor; 3 brewers; 7 bakers; 4 butchers; 1 carding-miller ; 15 carters and carriers; 6 cloth-merchants; 1 cooper; 3 clock and watch- makers; 1 corset-maker; 4 cowfeeders ; 1 dyer; 1 forester; 13 grocers ; 9 grocers and spirit-dealers ; 5 gardeners ; 3 grain-mil- lers; 100 hand-sewers; 5 hawkers; 5 heddle-carders ; 7 inn-keep- ers; 2 keepers of lodgings; 4 knitters of stockings ; 3 manufactur- ers' agents; 34 masons ; 37 pim-flUers ; 1 portrait-painter; 2 painters; 4 painters of snuff-boxes; 1 plasterer; 9 snuff-box- makers ; 13 smiths ; 3 sewing-mistresses ; 53 shoemakers; 6 saw- yers ; 3 surgeons and druggists ; 2 spirit-dealers ; 2 slaters ; 3 students ; 4 straw-hat manufacturers ; 1 saddler ; 2 stocking- weavers ; 2 tambourers ; 12 teachers ; 4 tinsmiths ; 6 thatchers ; 16 tailors; 120 hand-loom weavers; 34 wrights; 5 white-seam- sewers. The remaining portion of the parish, with the exception of a few individuals who live upon their properties, consists of farm- ers, farm-servants, day-labourers, quarriers, and colliers. Character^ ifc. of the People. — The people of the parish are in general quiet, sober, and industrious. Most of them pay outward respect to religion, yet it is to be feared, as in other districts of the 138 AYRSHIRE. country, there is less of the power of religion among them than in times past. They are remarkable for their kindness towards each otbe^, particularly in seasons of distress. Should an individual be laid on a bed of sickness, and be unable to procure for himself the essentials of existence, his neighbours are generally ready to share their humble meal with him — to attend him night after night, should their presence be required, and, when death has closed his eyes, they are always ready to render any assistance in their power to administer consolation to the afflicted &mily. Though living in a comparatively remote district of the country, where there is little facility of attaining to a knowledge of the higher branches of education, the people of the parish are by no means deficient in the spirit of enterprise, or in ge- neral and scientific knowledge. Several individuals, natives of the parish, at this moment, fill most honourably prominent situations in society, some in this and others in distant lands. A consider- able number of the villagers in Sorn and Catrine have a small piece of ground attached to their houses, on which they raise po- tatoes and a few common vegetables, for the use of their families, the working of which forms a pleasing recreation to them after the toils of the day. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The parish is supposed to contain about 19,000 Scotch acres, of which about 7000 are in pasture after cultivation, about 3000 under crop or under rye-grass hay, about 600 in wood, about 3000 might, by a judicious application of capital, be brought into a state of cultivation, and the remainder is chiefly hill or moss. The value of the grain raised annually is about L. 7200 ; of rye-grass and meadow hay about L. 1716; of potatoes, beans, turnips, and carrots about L. 1517; of land in pasture, rating It at L. 3 per cow, and 6s. per sheep, L. 4320 ; dairy produce about L. 7000; of lime last year L. 600. The number of cows is about 1264» of sheep 2161, of horses 221 . The valued rental is L. 541 1 Scots, and the real rental about L. 7300. The rent of land on the higher ground varies from 128. to L. 1, 2s. but on the holms, on the banks of the Ayr, and in the neighbourhood of the villages of Sorn and Catrine, it is as high as L. 3 per acre, or even more. The crops chiefly raised in the parish are oats, potatoes, and hay. There also a few acres of wheat and barley, beans, turnips, and occasionally a small quantity of carrots. The rotation is generally two crops of oats, one of hay, and five years of pasture. In seve- ral instances a more improved system of farming has been recently SORN. 139 introduced, and that chiefly by those who have had recourse to furrow-draining. When this mode of draining was first introduced into Ayrshire, it was done by means of small stones ; of lale, how- ever, tiles have been substituted for stones, and are now to be easily obtained in this and in most of the neighbouring parishes. The impulse which this species of improvement has given to agri- culture, and the increase of produce, is very great This is strik- ingly exemplified in the glebe, which has been drained by the pre- sent incumbent Fields which yielded only from 3J to 4 bolls of oats per acre when he entered upon his charge, yield now about 7 or 8 bolls per acre. But perhaps one of the most remarkable examples of the good effects of furrow- draining is to be found on a piece of moss in the parish belonging to Archibald Buchanan, Esq. of Catrine Bank, who was, if not the first, at least amongst the first, who introduced this mode of draining into Ayrshire. This piece of moss, consisting of about 20 acres, averaging 14 feet deep, till within these few years, was lying in a worse than useless state, and the damp arising from it frequently mildewed the crops in the neighbouring fields. A&ev being drained and dug, about 40 bolls of lime, and 50 carts of compost, consisting of two-thirds clay, and one-third dung, were spread upon every acre. After this it was sown with oats, and the crop averaged about 6 and 7 bolls per acre. It has since been in sheep pasture, and yields a return of about L. 2 per acre yearly. Three acres of this moss have been green cropped, and yielded about dO tons of turnips per acre. The whole cost of cutting the drains, digging, lime, compost, and putting in the first crop, amounted to L. 14 per acre, and by these means, firom being worse than useless, the moss has become equally as valuable, if not more valuable than any arable land on the property on which it lies. Should this system of furrow-draining be carried to its greatest possible extent, it is to be hoped, that our country will not only in general be in- dependent of supplies of foreign grain, but become an exporting one. Wages. — The usual rate of wages given to a ploughman is firom L. 7 to L. 8 half-yearly ; to a dairy maid from L. 4 to L. 5 ; to married male servants who live in houses of their own from L. 10 to L. 12. Day-labourers receive about Is. 8d. per day ; females, when engaged in out->door work, about lOd.; masons and wrights about 2s. 6d. per day ; when hired for the harvest work of a sea- son, men receive about L.d) women about L. 2. Wages of weavers 1 140 AYRSHIRE. in this, as in other parishes^ fluctuate very much. Sometimes a good weaver may earn from Is. 6d. to 28. per day ; at other times only from 9d. to Is. Stock. — The cows in the parish are mostly of the Cunningham breed, and the sheep are the common black-faced. No particu- lar attention is paid to the breed of horses in the parish, which is to be regretted. For were farmers careful to have something of the blood horse in their horses, they would 6nd them much better fit- ted for every species of work, and better able to undergo fatigue than those now generally in use among them. Manufactures. — In the village of Catrine, and on a part of the estate of Ballochmyle, which still forms a part of the parish of Som, there are the very extensive cotton and bleaching^works belonging to Messrs James Finlay and Company of Glasgow. These works were commenced in 1786, by the late Claud Alex- ander, Esq. of Ballochmyle, and the late David Dale, Esq. mer- chant in Glasgow. At that time, where the village of Catrine stands, there were only two families living, — those of the miller and blacksmith ; now it contains a population of 2702 souls, whose chief support is derived from the cotton and bleaching works. In 1 80 1 , the cotton works were purchased from Claud Alexander, Esq. and David Dale, Esq. by their present proprietors, and have since been greatly enlarged and improved, particularly by the erection of an extensive bleaching work in 1824, and three very large water- wheels a few years ago. Two of these wheels, which are about 50 feet diameter, and estimated at 100 horse power each, along with two steam engines of about 40 horse power each, which are used occasionally in dry seasons to make up for any deficiency in the supply of water, and to insure regularity of motion, propel the machinery in the cotton manufactory ; and the third, which is about 32 feet diameter, aided by a steam-engine of twenty-five horse power, when there is a scarcity of water, propels the machinery in the bleaching establishment At Catrine, the cotton which is brought from Glasgow is spun, woven, bleached, finished, and put up for home sale and exportation, to suit the various markets. The weight of yam spun in 1836 was 951,973 lbs., and the quantity of. goods produced 172,175 pieces of 25 yards, or 4,304,393 yards, equal to 2445 miles. Besides bleaching that which is manu&c- tured at Catrine, there is also bleached at the bleachfield there the cotton cloth manu&ctured at the other works belonging to Messrs James Finlay and Company. The quantity of cloth bleach- SORN. 141 ed varies from 15 to 25,000 yards per day. The superior quality of the goods manufactured by the Catrine Company, and the manner in which they are bleached and finished, have obtained for them such a decided preference, both in the home and foreign markets, that individuals have in some instances assumed the mark of the Catrine Company, with the view of getting their goods more rea- dily disposed of. The bleaching process is completed within doors, and is carried on without interruption at all seasons of the year, and that, too, without the slightest injury being done to the cloth ; nay, with the advantages of superior purity and colour, and a vast saving of time in the process, as well as of land, which, when the old system of bleaching was adopted, was required to expose the cloth to the action of the sun's rays. In the Catrine bleaching- work there is a saving of from 150 to 200 acres of land. In the different departments of spinning, weaving, and bleaching, and in the making and repairing of machinery connected with the cotton and bleaching-works, there are 913 persons employed, besides masons, labourers, and others, who on an average may amount to 30 more ; and the whole money put in circulation, and paid at the Catrine works in 1836, amounted to L. 27,568^ 1 8s. The wages are paid every Friday ; and every thing is done to promote the moral and religious interests, as well as the comfort of the people connected with the works. Before the new regulations with re- gard to the education of the young persons employed in cotton- factories were introduced, the Catrine Company, at their own ex- pensej provided a schoolmaster, to whom all who were connected with the works had, and still have, access immediately after the labours of the day arc over, without any charge whatever. From 200 to 300 individuals have been in the habit of availing themselves of this privilege, thereby laying the foundation of future happiness and future usefulness to themselves and to others. When a stag- nation in trade occurs, and other works of a similar description suspend their operations wholly, or in part, the Catrine Company carry on their operations without intermission, and keep their workers in full employment. A goodly feeling has in consequence, with but little interniption, subsisted between the employed and their employers in the Catrine works. An attempt, it is true, was made about two years ago to destroy this goodly feeling by the formation of a union among the workers, and by a demand for an -increase of wages. This attempt, as generally happens in such cases, fail- ed, — much distress ensued, and the greater number of those who 142 AYRSHIRE. had been seduced from an establishment, where they had uni- formly been treated with all the kindness and consideration con- sistent with its proper management, returned, after the lapse of a few months, and solicited admission to their former situations. Ex- cept in the cases of those who took a leading part in this union, the applications of all were listened to, and the same harmony and good feeling which formerly prevailed in this establishment seem again to prevail, and, it is hoped, will long continue. The works at Catrine, as well as the workers, have uniformly excited the ad- miration of strangers ; and from the books of the General Friendly Society at Catrine, with which many of the persons employed at the Catrine works are connected, it is evident there is less sick- ness among the people employed at the works than among any otheff description of workmen in the village. The success of this establishment, and the comfortable circumstances of the indivi- duals employed at it, are mainly owing to the able and judicious management of Archibald Buchanan, Esq. the resident partner of Messrs James Finlay and Company, who has managed the works at Catrine almost from the time they passed into the hands of the present proprietors. Besides the weaving of cotton cloth by power- looms at Catrine works, there is in this, as in most of the parishes of Ayrshire where there is a village population, a number of hand- loom weavers.. The employment aiforded to this class of workmen is very precarious, and the remuneration when trade is at its best so very small, that whenever an opportunity occurs many individuals who follow this profession abandon it. In 1826 the number of hand-loom weavers in the parish was about 220, now it is only about 120. There is a grain-mill in the parish, which has attached to it a saw-mill, where, at a reasonable rate, a great quantity of wood is sawn. There is also a carding-miil, a brewery, and two licensetl private brewers in the parish. Several of the farmers have thrash- ing-mills attached to their farm^yards, which are chiefly driven by horses. Quarries. — There are at present three lime-quarries wrought in the parish ; — one on the estate of Sorn Castle, a second on the estate of Dalgain, and a third on the estate of Gilmillscroft. That on Sorn Castle has only been opened up this year, although it was formerly wrought a considerable time ago. Indeed, there is a well authenticated tradition, that the lime with which the old bridge at Ayr was* built was taken from that quarry. The quarries on Dal- SORN. 143 gain and Gilmillscroft have been wrought for a number of years. Last year their joint produce amounted to 9000 bolls. V. — Parochial Economy. Market^Tovms. — There are no market-towns in the parish ; but in the villages of Catrine and Sorn, there are a number of excel- lent shops, at which almost every article required for domestic use can be purchased as good, and on as easy terms as in large towns. Besides the regular supply of butcher-meat and vegetables which may be obtained daily from the butchers and grocers in the villages, there is an excellent market for butcher-meat and vegetables held every Saturday at Catrine village. Villages* — There are two villages in the parish, — Catrine and Sorn. The former contains 2700 souls, and the latter about 300. In Catrine, people are chiefly dependent for employment on the cotton and bleaching-works there, and in Sorn, with the ex- ception of about eight-hand loom weavers, they are chiefly agri-' cultural labourers, colliers, quarriers, and hand-sewers. Inns. — There are four inns in the village of Catrine, two in the village of Sorn, and one at Greenfoot, about a quarter of a mile from the village of Sorn, on the road from Galston to Auchin- leek. Means of Communication. — About six miles of the road from Ayr to Muirkirk, and about five miles of the road from Galston to Auchinleck, pass through the parish. There are penny-post offices in Catrine and Sorn, and the mail gig with the mail from Ayr and Kilmarnock for London, passes through the latter village every morning about seven o'clock on its way to Douglas Mill, where it meets the mail-coach from Glasgow to London, and waits the ar- rival of the mail from London to Glasgow. On receiving the letter- bags for Ayr, Kilmarnock, Cumnock, and Mauchline, it returns again immediately, and passes through Sorn about three o'clock p. m., bringing letters and papers from London in about forty-four hours. The coach from Glasgow to Dumfries passes through Mauchline, about four miles distant from Sorn, every lawful day, about three o'clocL There are carriers twice a week from Sorn and Catrine to and from Glasgow, leaving those places every Monday and Thursday, and returning again every Wednesday and Saturday. There is also a carrier from Catrine to Ayr every Tuesday and Friday, and from the same place to Kilmarnock on Tuesdays and Fridays. The Catrine Company despatch carts with goods to Glas- gow every law All evening, which, by means of a relay of horses on the 144 AYRSHIRE. the roady reach their destination early on the following forenoon. Carts are also despatched from Glasgow every evening with cotton and goods for the bleachfield, which reach Catrine every forenoon. There is a stone bridge over the Ayr, near the manse on the road from Galston to Auchinleck, which was begun and com* pleted through the exertions of the Rev. William Steele, the se- cond minister who was settled in the parish after its final sepa- ration firom Mauchline. There is^also an excellent stone bridge over the Ayr at Catrine, on the road from Mauchline to Muir- kirk through that village. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish of Sorn was originally a part of the parish of Mauchline, from which it was finally and complete- ly separated in 1692, when Mr Mungo Lindsay was ordained mi- nister, a stipend and glebe provided, and a manse built. The pre- cise year in which the church was built cannot be ascertained. The writer of the last Statistical Account represents it to have been built in 1656 ; but there is a stone in a part of the building which represents it to have been built in 1658. From Wodrow's history, it appears that a Mr John Campbell was ejected from Dalgsan in 1662 for non-<;ompliance with Episcopacy; and according to Cruickshanks, Mr Andrew Dalrymple, minister at Auchinleck, was ^^ indulged" to Sorn in 1669. Nor is it improbable that, previous to the Revolution in 1688, there was an Episcopal incumbent settled in the parish, as a tradition prevails that he was obliged to flee at thst period ; and a small pass at the side of the river Ayr, near Sorn Castle, over which he is said to have passed during his flight, is still called the Curate's Steps. It is not unlikely that he was one of those to whom Bishop Burnet alludes as being so obnoxious to the people, that they tore their gowns, and carried these in mock procession through their parishes previous to expelling them. In 1826 the church was thoroughly repaired, and the seating so ar- ranged as to accommodate about 50 persons more than formerly. It is conveniently enough situated for the parish, — has 611 sittings, of which 64 are set apart for the poor and those not otherwise en- titled to church accommodation. There is besides a chapel of ease in the village of Catrine, which was built by the late Claud Alexander, Esq. of Ballochmyle, in 1792, and cost L. 1000. In 1829, this chapel was purchased from the present Claud Alexander, Esq. of Ballochmyle, by the feuars of Catrine, who, by their feu- rights, are bound to maintain a chapel in connection with the Establishment, as well as a church-yard. This chapel, which eon- I SORN. 145 tains about 730 sittings, will, it is expected, in a short time be con- stituted a parish church, and the village of Catrine be assigned to its minister as a parish qtioad sacreu The present manse was built by the Rev. William Steele, to whom allusion has already been made, soon after he was settled minister of the parish, and that chiefly at his own expense, — the he- ritors having only granted him a small allowance for the purpose. Some additions have been made to it by succeeding incumbents, and, if thoroughly repaired, it might prove a comfortable manse for sometime to come. The glebe, including the ground on which the manse and office-houses stand, is about 9 Scotch acres. The stipend is 123 bolls of meal, 52 bolls of bear, of the old weight and measure of the county, and L. 37, 6s. 9d. A meeting-house in connection with tlie United Secession Church has recently been built at Catrine, but as yet no minister has been appointed to it This meeting-house has been erected, not in consequence of any recent accession in the parish to the re- ligious denomination with which it is connected, but chiefly, it is supposed, for the accommodation of those persons belonging to that body who have been in the habit of attending the meeting-houses at Mauchline and Cumnock. The number of persons in the parish belonging to the Esta- blishment is 3360, of whom 1299 are communicants. 760 belong to other denominations, chiefly to the United Secession. Educati&TL — There is one parochial school in the parish, with the legal accommodation and the maximum salary, situated close by the church, within about a quarter of a mile of the village of Sorn. There are, besides, in the rural district four teachers, and in the village of Catrine seven teachers, all of whom, with one exception, depend entirely on the school wages, which average about dd. per week. The exception is the teacher employed by the Catrine Cot- ton Company, who receives from them L. 50 a-year for teaching in the evening, the more advanced young persons engaged in their works, and about L. 30 annually for instructing during the day those who are under thirteen years of age, in terms of the factories' regulation bill. The number of the persona in the parish attend-^ ing school is about 500^ Libraries. — There are four libraries in the village of Catrin6 : one, called the Public Library, was instituted in 1814, consists of upwards of 600 volumes, and has 70 members, who pay L. 1 of entry money, and 2s. 3d, annually. The second is the New Pub- AYR. ' K 146 AYRSH1R£. lie Library, instituted in 1899, consists of upwards of 700 volumes^ and has about 100 members, wbo pay Is, d ontry money, and 4s. 4d. annually. The third is the Philosophical Library, which was instituted in 1825, consists of about 90 Yolumes, and has 24 members, who pay Is. of entry money, and Ss. annually. And the fourth is a library m connection with the Catrine works Sabbath school, consisting of 528 volumes, to which all the youiig persons attending the Sabbath school have access gratis. Friendly 5oeieft>a.-«-The only friendly society at present in the parish is in the village of Catrine* It was instituted in 1889, and remodcjled in 1882. There are 820 members, whose average annual assessment is about lis. 6d. The funds at present are L. 254, and L. 170 were paid last year to members claiming re* lief. Another Fri^Mlly Society was instituted in 1794, but was lately dissolved. Poor and Parechial Funds. — The number of poor on the roll at the end of 1886 was 88^ and the average allowance to each weekly was Is. 2^d. The average number for the last seven years was %, and the average allowance to each weekly during that pe« riod was Is. l^d. and a cart of coals annually. There are besides individuals who have received occasional relief. In 1886, the uwat^ her of persons who received occasional relief was 80, and the average sum granted to each was 1 Is. S^d. For the last seveo years the average number of persons receiving occasional relief yearly was 36, and the average sum allotted to each during that period was lis. 8|d. The relief thus granted is but small, yet, with the aid of friends and the kindness of neighbours, the greater propor«» tion of these poor persons have generally been supported in some degree of comfort. The whole amount expended on the poor of the parish, in 1886, was L. 135, Os. l^d., and the average amount for the last seven years was L. 113, Os. 3|d. annually. This sum is raised firom the collections at the parish church and the chapel at Catrine, the interest of L. 1 10, the result chiefly of some dona-» tions, mortcloth^money, small sums received at marriages, and a vohmtary assessment on the part of the heritcnrs. The mans^e^ ment of the poor's funds is entirely in the hands of the kirk-se»^ sion, who exhibit a statement of the money received and expend-* ed by them annually to the heritors. Fairs. — There are two fairs held at Som annually, — oaa on the second Tuesday of March, O. S., and tlie other on the first Mon- day of November, N. S. Ai the former, there is a great attend- MUIRKIRK. 147 ance of people from the surroiindiiig dislrict A good deal of busi* ness is transacted, and a number of cattle disposed o£ There is also a race run on this occasion^ which tends to increase the con* course of personsi At the latter, which has only JbeeD recently i»- itituted^ the attendance is but small. Fud. — The fuel used in the parish is peat and omiI \ peat in the higher districts, and coal in the villages and places adjacent Till of late, coal was found in considerable quantities in tfa« immediate neighbourhood of the village of Som, and the price was in conse- quence very moderate, Ss. per cart of 12 cwt» laid down at the doors of the villagers* At present the coal used in the parish is brought from the parish of Auchinleck, a distance of about four miles, and with the rise of price which has taken place in that ar- ticle during the present year, and the additional cost of cartage, a cairt of 12 cwt. ^ coals, laid down in the village of Som, costs 68» Sd* An attempt, however, is now making on an extensive scale to raise coal in the parish, and should it be success&d, of which there seems a probability, this district will, as in times past, be abundantly supplied with eoals^ and the dwellings of the poor and labouring classes be again cheered by that great alleviation erf the ills of poverty,^ — a comfortable fire. July 1837. PARISH OF MUIRKIRK. PRESBTTBRY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR* THE REV. JAMES SYMINGTON, MINISTER.* L — TOPOOEAPHY ANJ> NaTUKAL HiSTDEY* Name. — Muirkirk is the mosi easterly parish of the county of Ayr, and was known in former tiaokes, by the title of ^^ the Miiirkiik of Kyle*" Until about the year 1626^ it oonstitnted a part of the parish of Maiwhline, and was subject to the jurisdiction of the Earls of Loudon. A separate proYisioo was at that time made lor a minister, and a building erected for public worship. Extent^ Sfc. — The parish is about 8 miles in length from east * Drawn up by tlie late incumbent, the Rev. Alexander Brown. 148 AYRSHIRE. to west, and 7 miles broad from north to south. Its area must therefore contain 56 square miles, or above 30,000 acres. It is bounded on the east and south-east, by the parishes of Douglas and Crawfdrdjohn; on the north and north-east, by the parishes of Avondale and Lesmahagow; on the south and south-west, by Auchinleck ; and on the west and north-west, by Som and Gal- iton. . Topographical Appearances. — Its surface is uneven, often rising into considerable eminences, covered with dark heath, and presents nothing either grand or striking to the beholder. The highest bill in the parish, or indeed in the county, is called Cairntable. It has two cairns or heaps of stones upon its top, and is 1650 feet above the level of the sea. Breccia or pudding-rock enters largely into its composition, which is here formed of small pieces of quartz minutely mixed with sandstone, and nearly as hard as granite. It supplied for many years the millstones used in the parish for grinding oats, and I make no doubt it would still be found admirably adapted for this purpose. Tradition also asserts that it was a place of worship. The level land is mostly to be found near the banks of the rivers — the adjoining land rising sometimes into gentle eminences, and at other times swelling abruptly into hills. These again run- ning into each other, and, gradually ascending, form the boundary of the parish nearly in all directions, and at a medium altitude of about 1000 feet. The prevailing winds are from the east and south. During a thunder storm about four years ago, a water-spout fell on the farm of High Priesthill, possessed by Mr Weir, near the nor- thern extremity of the parish, which washed away about thirty acres of land, and otherwise did considerable damage. From the altitude of the parish, and from the great extent of moss earth constituting its surface, fogs are frequent and rain abundant The torpid moss earth engenders cold, and the great quantity of mois- ture retained upon its surface is a fruitful source of vapour, render- ing the air hiimid and disagreeable. The evaporation, however, from moss seems not to prove injurious to the constitution. The plants which go to the formation of this earth do not, as on lands covered with rich herbage, putrify and render the air unwholesome. Being possessed of an antiseptic quality, they remain long in their original form and consistency. Hence the copious exhalations, drawn from a source so cold and damp, may indeed benumb vege- MUIRKIRK. 149 tation, but do not affect the health of the inhabitants. There are, therefore, no particular diseases incident to the parish which are the result of moist air ; n'or any other diseases that are not common to other parts of the country. Hydrography. — There are many excellent springs in this parish, but none of them present any thing peculiarly interesting, if we ex- cept a few which possess the power of petrifaction. These springs are not strong, but the process can be distinctly seen. The moss which grows on the edge of each of the springs is generally about two inches high. The moss is green and flourishing on the top, the middle appears as if half-frozen, and the lower part is converted into stone. I am not aware that any springs have been found pos- sessing medicinal qualities, but it is not unlikely that there may be a few unknown impregnated with sulphur, iron, or other mineral in- fusion. There are no natural lakes, but two artificial lochs or reservoirs were formed about the year 1802, at Glenbuck, in this parish, by Messrs James Finlay and Company, of Glasgow, to supply their cotton works at Catrine. They cover 121 acres of land. The water of Ayr, which is the second river in point of mag* nitude in the county, rises immediately out of the reservoirs al*- ready mentioned ; and, after running a distance of thirty miles, falls into the Frith of Clyde at Ayr. It is augmented by a number of lesser streams before leaving the parish, amongst which may be mentioned the waters of Garpel, Greenock, and Whitehaugh. Geology and Mineralogy. — There is an extensive field of coal and other minerals, forming a portion of the great coal-field of Scotland, which runs from east to west about seven miles, and is, on an average, about one mile and a-half broad. The thickness of the coal at present wrought is 24 feet 4 inches ; but, altogether, there will be nearly 40 feet of workable coal. There are also twenty-four bands of ironstone, of the average thickness of 6 inches. The line of dip is irregular. In the northern portion of the coal field, it is greater than in the southern, varying from one foot in two, to one foot in seven, and, in some portions of the outcrop, it is nearly vertical ; while in the southern portion it seldom varies more than from one foot in two and a half, to one foot in three and a half, and some portions are lying nearly flat There is an immense number of slips or fallings, which are found to lead about 30^ south- east and north-west They are found straight or in an oblique 150 AYRSHIRE. directioiii according as the substance is hard or soft, through which they pass, and vary in wideness from a quarter of an inch to four or five feeL When these slips are' wide, the coal on each side of them is generally bad, the strata bent in the direction of the slip, and the coal beds much thinner. There are three stages or dikes found in this coal-field, varying in thickness from 2 inches to 122 feet, composed of greenstone, porphyritic claystone, and calcareous spar. The coal is always bad near these stages. Its natural fissures are filled with sulphate of lime, or iron pyrites, which increase as they approach the stage, until the coal becomes a mass of black sooty matter, called by the miners dander coal, resembling charcoal in its colour and specific gravity. The thickness of the stage de- termines in general the extent of this coal, as it is to be found lying on each side of it in the proportion of one-half of its thick- ness, and is always arranged in columns resting upon the stage. The coal in this parish is the independent formation of Werner, and the rocks to be found are generally those which are connected, and have a strong affinity with it, viz. conglomerate, sandstone, limestone, slate-clay, porphyritic claystone, bituminous shale, clay, ironstone, greenstone, &c. Vegetable remains are to be found in only two of the seams of coal, in the roof of one and mixed through the other. Shells perfectly white are to be found in the ironstone clay, and numerous vegetable impressions in the iron- stone. The most perfect, however, are to be found in the lime- stone and indurated clay connected with it. The smaller impre»* sions appear to be of such plants as flourish in marshes and woods, and the leaves and stems of the larger resemble those of palma and ferns. Ores, — Iron ore, lead, and manganese have been found, and the two former wrought, but the experiment was given up, the veins being found poor and unproductive. Soib* — Sand, clay, gravel, loam, and moss are the principal allu- vial deposits. They are to be found of various thicknesses. The moss in particular varies from one to twenty feet. Entire hazel- nuts have been found in the latter, and large trees of oak, fir, and birch are abundant Moss is the principal soil, covering at least two-third parts of the surface of the parish, and to be found in three different secies, as flow-moss, bent-moss, and hill-moss. The principal plants, according to Mr Aiton, which go to the for* nation, and which are to be found on these diflierent mosses, are, — MUIRKIRK. 151 « \tt, Fi Juncus squarrosus, nua. White bent, • Nardus strictus. Marsh fog, - Sphagnum palustre. Turfy club rush, - Seirpus caespitosus, With gowk-bear, stool bent, white bent, Tormentil, * IWmentilla officii tormentil, ana various oi the sedge > nalis, grasses (Carices.) ilf»itfi.-^ There are numerous mines of coal, ironstone^ andlime^ «11 wrought upon the most approved plans. The principal seam of coal being thick, and the rise moderate, rail-roads are laid, and horses employed to drag the coal and ironstone from the rooms and other workings to the bottom of the shaft. As in other parts of Scotland^ a part only of the stratum is excavated in the 6rst working of the pit^ the other part being left as pillars to support the roof* The miners are much troubled with choke damp or carbonic acid gas ; but never with inflammable damp or carburet-* ted hydrogen ga& Natural woods.^-'lt appears from a charter granted to the monks of Melrose by the Grand Stewart of Scotland, that this and the neighbouring parish of Sorn were a forest in the end of the twelfth century. That it was, at one time, covered with trees is abundant-^ ly evident, from the names of many of the farms, from the trees found in mosses, and from small clumps and detached trees of birch and mountain^-ash still to be seen on braes, and by the sides of narrow ravines. To whatever cause the destruction of these trees may be attributed, it is much to be regretted. In a hilly country such as this, the want of shelter is severely felt ; and the prostrate trunks and branches, by obstructing water and assisting in the formation of moss earth, must have proved highly injurious to the climate. The Honourable Keith Stewart^ who became proprietor by purchase about forty years ago, of the greater por- tion of the land in this parish, judiciously planted numerous belts near the water of Ayr. They are composed mostly of larch, spruce, and fir; but whether from carelessness, bad management, or the trees not suiting the soil, some of them have made but lit* 152 AYRSHIRE. tie progress. Other proprietors have since followed his example* The land planted is no doubt small in proportion to the extent of the parish, but it has contributed much to the comfort and beauty of the place.^ II. — Civil History, The ancient history of this parish is hid in impenetrable ob- scurity. There are many single stones still standing, which, in all likelihood, were erected, to commemorate events at the time con- sidered sufficiently important, the knowledge of which is now com- pletely gone. Tradition, ever busy, endeavours to account in many different ways for their erection ; hut tradition will be found too often associated with fable to be trusted. There are no writ- ten memorials — no distinguishing mark or hieroglyphic to be found on the stones themselves, which could lead us positively to affirm that they were erected to perpetuate either the memory of some petty skirmish or fallen chief; and (with the exception of one on the farm of Laighshaw, possessed by Mr Murray, which is about eight feet high,) they are too small and unimportant to be asso- ciated with any former religion. There are, however, other monu- ments of a later and most unhappy period of Scottish history, which tell but too unequivocally of the sufferings and death of our brave progenitors. The most remarkable of these monuments is the gravestone of one John Brown, erected on the farm of PriesthilL The death of this man was perpetrated with such cold-blooded cruelty, near his own habitation, and in presence of his wife and family, that to visit his grave is considered a sort of pilgrimage by the pious of all persuasions. The stone bears that he was shot through the head by a party commanded by Graham of Claver- house, while upon his knees, and in the act of prayer. It is said that Claverhouse, or one of his party, lifted up his dead body, and carried it to his wife, asking her, " what she thought of her hus- band ?" " Mair," said she, « than ever I did, but the Lord will avenge this another day." ♦ A new monument has lately been erected on the site of the old one, suitable to the taste and libe- rality of the present times, Land'ovmers. — The chief land-owners are, His Grace the Duke of Portland ; the Right Honourable the Earl of Douglas; the Right Honourable the Earl of Hyndford ; the Honourable Colonel M* Adam Cathcart of Craigengillan ; Mr Blackwood of • Old Statistical Account. 4 MUIRKIRK* 153 Hall; Alexander Aird of Crosflatt, Esq. ; William Brown, Esq. of Greenock Mains; John Gemmil of Auldhouseburn; James Allison of Tardoors ; the Reverend Dr Anderson of Waterhead ; and a few other smaller proprietors. Parish Registers. — Before the year 1772 the parish registers are very imperfect and irregular ; but since that period they have been regularly kept The first entry is dated in the year 1739. IIL — Population. The population previously to the erection of the iron works, to be mentioned afterwards, must have been small, — the parish being a pastoral district, and the farms large. The present increase is no doubt owing to the establishment of these works ; but the po* pulation is constantly fluctuating, — the iron company increasing or diminishing the number of workmen as the trade will allow. The number of inhabitants in the villages of Muirkirk and Glenbuck is, 1215 country, ... leoi The yearly average of births for the last seven years is • 100 of deaths, ... 25 of marriages, ... 80 The average number of persons under 15 years of age is - 1256 betwixt 15 and do, . - 689 ' 90 and 50, - - 567 50 and 70, . - 244 upwards of 70, . . 60 Number of landed proprietors of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, 10 unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers of 50 years of age and upwards, - , • - - - 43 unmarried women upwards of 45 years, - - 98 Number of fitmilies, ....... 576 chieBy employed in agriculture, • - - 55 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, - 505 IV. — Industry. Agriculture.'^ Ks the whole land in the parish has not been measured) — as it is for the greater part lying uninclosed, and the sheep husbandry occupying the principal care and attention of the farmers, little land in comparison is cultivated, and that, little as it is, cannot be exactly stated in statute acres. But the pro- bable quantity of land under tillage annually may amount to about 1000 acres, and the number of acres which never have been culti- vated may be stated at about 25,000. * The number of acres that might with a profitable application of capital be added to the cultivated land of the parish is very considerable ; and, with a few * These numbers appear inconsistent with the real amount of acres in the parish, which is 90,000. Th94000 acres not mentioned above have been in crop, although not in tillage annually, and cannot, therefore, be added to the land that Has never been cultivated. 154 AYRSHIRE. exceptions, the whole sur&oe might be brought to yield a far great- er abundance of permanent pasture. /%]ii/«h'(ms.— ^The plantations on the property of His Grace the Duke of Portland cover nearly 200 acres of land, and I should appose that 20 acres more will be found round the seats of rest- dent proprietors. The trees generally planted are larch, spruce, and fir, and, though much neglected formerly, his Grace has, since acquiring the property, paid considerable attention to thinning. Bent of Land. — The average rent of arable land is L. 1 per acre. A cow's grass is L. 3, and a full-grown sheep Ss. 6d. Livestock* — The most approved breed of sheep is the blade** faced kind. Considerable care is always taken to select the strongest and best shaped ewe lambs to continue the stock ; and occasionally a few tups of the same kind are purchased, but of larger size and finer shapes, by better feeding and more skilful crossing. The attention of the fiirmer is fully awakened to the practicability of still further improvements; and I make no doubt, that, in a very few years, by a continuation of their care, this hardy and useful animal will become much more productive. There are numerous dairies of the best Cunninghame breed of cows. A number of young cattle of the same kind are reared an- nually, and care is always taken to retain the most handsome to improve the stock. A few young horses are also reared. The old system of taking two, and sometimes three, crops of oats without manure, and allowing the land to rest for a few years to recover its lost energies, is still followed by a few of the farmers in this parish. By far the greater number, however, are farming, what land has been converted into arable, after the most approved systems of husbandry. Green cropping has of late years greatly increased, and, in all likelihood, will increase, and a portion of waste land has been retained : but there are many thousand of acres still lying in their natural state. Surface-draining alone would Improve the grasses on this soil, ameliorate the climate, and enhance the value of stock. Lime and coal are abundant and cheap. In short, every requisite is at hand were it but applied. The spirit of improvement is, however, awakened. The Duke of Portland, with his usual public spirit and wisdom, is opening roads through his property, and building lime kilns. Other prc^rietors deserve to be mentioned, and in particular Mr Aird ; who has im- proved a great extent of moss land. There are many tenants also MUIQKIRK. 155 who have, at their own expense, improved their farms by surface- draining, liming, and ploughing. The leasee run from seven to fifteen years. F€a7n'Buildiiiffs,^^The farm-houses are comfortable, many of them having been lately erected, but the out-houses wrfi in gene- ral miserable. The stables and byres are small and unsuitable, — little or no convenience for dairy husbandry, and, taken as a whole, inconsistent with the extent of the farms, and the improvements of the present times. There are few fences, composed mostly of stone, and in many instances ill constructed, and in a ruinous con- dition. Produce, — It is impossible to give a correct account of the value of the raw produce, but it may be nearly as follows : Produce of grain of all kinds* whether cultlTRted for the food of man or the domettic animals, - - - - L. 2700 Of potatoes and other plants cultivated in the fields, - - 2U00 Of hay, meadow and eu1tiTated« ... 850 Of land in pasture, ratioff it at L. d, per cow graced ibr the season, and at 9s. 6d. per ewe, or mlUgrown sheep pa&tured for the year, • 8450 Of the annual thinning and periodical felling of wood, • - 90 Of mines, whether coals, quarries, or metals,— ^ay. - - 10,000 Total amount of mw produce, aa £ir as can be stated, - L. 18,^20 Manufactures^^^The only manufectory in the parish is that of iron. Very extensive iron works were erected in 1787. These works con- sist of three large blast furnaces for making pig-iron, an extensive foige for making bar-iron, with a foundery and inferior works. Two of the blast furnaces only have been going for a number of years, and these employ about 400 workmen, who work six days in the week, and eight hours per day. The materials used in making iron are ironstone, coal, and lime, and it takes 2 tons 12 cwt« of ironstone, 8 tons 12 cwt. of coals ; and 19 cwt and 3 quarters of lime, to make one ton of pig iron. Founders esteem it soft, easily melted, and of the best quality. The bar iron is also very superior, being lit- tle if at all inferior to the best Swedish iron. This proceeds partly from the coals used in manufacturing it being nearly free of sul- phur, and partly from the manner of beating out the bars, instead of drawing them out by rollers as in other iron works. The coal field and other minerals under lease by the present Company are extensive, and we may look forward to this manuCac- tory supplying for many years the means of wealth to all parties concerned, and promoting, as it ha5 hitherto done, the agricultural interests of the parish. 156 AYR9HIRE. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Towns — Means of Communication. — There are two vil* lages in the parish, Muirkirk and Glenbuck, The latter village was an appendage to the iron-works erected at that place, and car- ried on for some time by an English company. These works were given up many years ago, and the village has since fallen into de- cay. Muirkirk is a thriving village, and is also indebted for its pre- sent extent to the iron-works already mentioned, erected in its neighbourhood. ' The nearest market-town is Strathaven, situated at a distance of thirteen miles, to which there is an excellent road. The road from Edinburgh by Douglas-mill to Ayr passes through it ; and there is a good road to Mauchline, which is distant fourteen miles. Some of the parish roads have been lately repaired out of the statute-labour collected from the inhabitants, and it is expect- ed that the remaining roads will be made and repaired ere long out of the same fund. There is a post-office. There are several bridges in the parish, particularly on the line of the Edinburgh road, in tolerable repair. The canals and rail-roads are connect- ed with the iron-works, and limited in their extent. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated near the centre of the parish, and is as convenient as it possibly can be for the greater part of the inhabitants. It will be between four and five miles from the extremities. It was built about twenty years ago, and has lately undergone a thorough repair, and is capable of accommo- dating 1000 sitters. The manse has been repaired within the last four years, and is at present comfortable. The glebe extends to about 14 acres, has been greatly improved, and is now capable of raising almost any crop, The .stipend amounts to L. 150 per annum. There is only one meeting-house in the parish, belonging to the Burgher persuasion. It has been only occasionally preached in for the last three years. The number of families attending the Esta- blished Church is ddO, and the number attending the meeting- house 45. Divine service is well attended, and the number of com- municants 400. Education. — There are four schools in the parish. The parish schoolmaster receives a salary of L. 28 per annum, with free house and garden. About 70 scholars attend. Altogether his emolu- ments, exclusive of house and garden, may amount to L. 80. The branches taught are Greek, Latin, English, writing, arithmetic, and MUIRKIKK. 157 book-keeping. The other schoolmasters teach English, writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping, and are supported by the scholars. Libraries, — There are two circulating libraries supported by subscription. The members are numerous, and the collection of books large and well selected. Friendly Societies, — There are three friendly societies ; the Muirkirk Friendly Society commenced on the dd of July 1790 ; the St Thomas Mason Lodge Friendly Society has existed about thirty years, and the St Andrew's Mason Lodge Friendly Society about twenty years. All these societies have been productive of much good, by promoting industry, and exciting a spirit of independence. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons that receive parochial relief in one year is 40, and the sum allot- ted to each varies from 5s. to 6s. per man. This sum is procured from the weekly collections at church, and by an assessment on the heritors half-yearly when needed. The poor inhabitants are not by any means backward in applying to this fund for relief. There are few beggars, however, belonging to the parish ; but being a thoroughfare from the coast to England, whole families of poor Irish are usually to be found begging. Strangers, and starving, they must be assisted ; but it turns the supply for the poor at home into a different channel, and imposes a heavy burden upon the charitable and humane. Fairs. — There are three fairs in the year held for agricultural purposes. They are of little importance, and but thinly attended. Lins. — In this, as in almost every other part of the country, there are by far too many houses of public entertainment. There are ten inns and alehouses, and their effects upon the morals of the people decidedly bad. Fuel — Coal is used for fuel in the village, which can be pro- cured at the rate of 2s. 6d. for 14 cwt., and the country part of the population use peat and coal indifferently. General Observations. Agricultural improvement has made rapid progress in the west of Scotland within the last fifty years ; and in no place has its be- neficial effects been productive of greater good than in this parish. Since the date of the last Statistical Account much has been ef- fected in meliorating the climate, by relieving the surface of its stagnant water. Many fields have been brought under cultivation which were formerly covered with heather. The plantations then in their infancy have arrived at maturity, and prove, small as thev 158 AYRSHIRE. are, wonderfully beneficial ; and the value of land has graaily in- creased. But though nuch has been done» there is still a wide field for improTement The parish is still almost void of enclo- sures ; and without these, little can be expected from the most u^ dustrious tenant By far the greater portion of the bill land is st31 overburdened with moisture, and destitute of shelter, — draining, therefore, and planting ought to be particularly attended Uk The sheep-walk should be separated from the improvable land 1^ stone dikes, and hedging and ditching used for dividing it into suitaUe enclosures. The larger fitrms ought to be reduced in size, as I am afraid little will be effected in the inbringing of land, so long as the farmer's whole attention is engrossed with his sheep stock. Much of the parish still resembles an unexplored region, — thousands of acres are to be found in a state of nature, which oould be easily added to the cultivated land. If the waste land m this and many other parts of Scotland were reclaimed, it would add greatly to the resources of the country, be afiruitful source of profit to the proprietors, and the means of promoting the happiness and comfort of the labouring-classes. July 1837. PARISH OF MAUCHLINE. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JOHN TOD, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name." The name of this parish was formerly spelled Macb- lein, or Machlene, or Machlin ; but of late it is more commonly qpeUed Mauchline, — Mayh signifying ^^ a field or meadow,** and <* Km or Kntu** a pool or lake. MagKUmnt, pronomiced by the Scots who succeeded the Gael, Maehlin or MauehKne, is the lake^ field or meadow, and this etymology of the name corresponds with its original local description. As the fields around the town of Mauchline abound with numerous springs, they must ha?e been anciently a marsh or meadow. MAUCHLINE. 159 Extent^ jBoiasAimt.--«The parish of Maucbline lies in the cen« tre of the county of Ayr, is about 8 miles in lei^h, and from 2 to 4 in breadth, containing about 24 square miles. It is bound- ed on the north, by the parishes of Craigie and Galston ; on the east, by the parish of Sorn; on the south, by the parishes of Auchinleck and Ochiltree ; and on the west, by the parishes of Stair and Tarbolton. Topographical Ajq^eartmces* — The parish is in general flat, ex-* cepting Maucbline hill, which rises a little to the north-east of the town, and runs in a ridge, frcmi east to west, about a mite in the parish, terminating at Skeoch hill, in the parish of Tarbohoo. From the hill, there is a very extensile prospect, not only over a great part of Ayrshire, but as far as Cairnsmure, and other hills in Galloway, and Benlomond, Jura, Arran, Kintyre, &c. This hiU forms part. of what is commonly known by the hng ridge of Kyle* It rises about 1000 feet above the level of the sea» The air is milder and more temperate here than towards the eastern coast of Scotland. Owing to its proximity to the western coast, it is rather wet ; but, upon the whole, not unhealthy, neither are there any diseases peculiar to this parish. Hydrography. — There are numerous perennial ^rings in the parish, particularly where the town is built, but as none of them have been analyzed, their chemical properties are unknown. The only loch in the parish, called Lochbrown, is about three miles north-west from the town. It covers sixty acres of ground. It would have been drained many years ago, bad it not been for the sake of two corn-mills which it supplies with water. Wild- ducks, geese, and sometimes swans resort to it. The river Ayr runs through this parish^ about a mile south of the town. In its course, it passes between ste^ rocks of red free- stone, from forty to fifty feet high. How this passage was form- ed, whether by some convulsion of nature, or by the water gradu* ally forming a channel for itself, cannot now be ascertained. The scenery is beautiful and romantic On its banks there are various caves cut out of the solid rock, similar to those at Auchinleck, of which £>r Johnson has taken notice in his Tour to the Hebrides. One of them is known by the name of Peden's Cave, where it is said Alexander Peden (whose name is so familiar to the inhabitants of the west of Scotland) often concealed himself during the un- happy time of the persecution. About half a mile above Barskimming, the seat of Lord Glen- 160 AYRSHIRE. lee, the Ayr is joined by the waters of the Lugar. It afterwards runs a course of ten miles, and join^ the Frith of Clyde at the town of Ayr. Geohtgy. — The soil in the parish is variotis^ for the most part of a clayish nature, except some fields about Mauchline, which are of a light sandy or mixed kind. A few fields consist of a deep loam, well adapted for every kind of crop. On the south side of the pa- rish there are extensive strata of red freestone, in many places up- wards of forty feet in depth. On the north side, white freestone, limestone, ironstone, and also coal abound, but the thickness of the strata is inconsiderable. Botany. — The following is a list of the more rare plants in the parish, and the spots where they are to be found : Vaccinium oxycoccos^ creeping bilberries or cranberries, found on the rocks near the Ayr; Asperula odorata^ sweet-scented woodruff; Campa- ntda urtidfolia^ nettle-leaved bell-flower, — these two are found in woods : Botrychium lunaria, moonwort, found upon the plea- sure-ground of Barskimming; Scolopendrium officinarumj harts- tongue ; Hypericum Androscemum^ tutsan, St John's wort ; Vinca minor^ less periwinkle ; these three found in the woods on the banks of Ayr : TroUius EurapcBus^ globe-flower, also on the banks; Drosera rotundifolia, round-leaved sundew; Drosera longifoKa^ long-leaved sundew ; Camarum pabistre, marsh cinquefoil ; the three last, found in the Kipple moss, on the estate of Barskimming : Serapias latifolia^ helleborine, under the shady beeches : Daphne laureolof spurge-laurel ; Lycoperdon tuber ^ truffle, found among the woods in various parts. • Soil. — The soil seems well adapted for the growth of trees, the young plantations being remarkably thriving. They consist most- ly of firs, ashes, oaks, and beeches. On the estate of Barskim- ming there are larches of very great dimensions. They were among the first of the kind that were brought to this country. They were at first carefully preserved in hot-houses. They are now the tallest trees in the woods. In the churchyard of Mauchline, in the centre of the town, there is an ash 15 feet in circumference, containing upwards of 300 solid feet. On its top a colony of rooks have fixed their residence. The age of this tree is unknown. II. — Civil History. There is no connected history of the parish. It was once a priory, belonging to the Abbacy of Melrose, and when that abbacy was MAUCHL]NE. 161 erected into a temporal lordship, the lands ^nd barony of Kiles- mure and Barmure, and the patronage of the church of Mauchline, were given to the Lord of Loudon. This parish formerly includ- ed the parishes of Som and Muirkirk, and a great part of the pa- rish of Tarbolton. There is no tradition of any battle in the pa- rish, except one, at MaucMine Muir, between the King's party and the Covenanters, about the year 1647, when the former was defeat- ed, and their military chest was found, it is said, many years after, hidden in the ground. Upon the farm of Mosgiel, in this parish, Bums resided nearly nine years. Here he composed some of his most celebrated poems. While living here, by the advice of his generous patron, G. Ha- milton, Esq. he published the first edition of his poems, which have immortalised him as Scotia's bard. Land-owners.^The chief land-owners are, Claud Alexander, Esq. of Ballochmyle ; His Grace the Duke of Portland ; Lord Gleniee ; Sir James Boswell of Auchinleck, BsltL ; William Campbell, Esq. of Netherplace; George Douglas, Esq. of Roding- head ; Mrs Wallace of Cairnhill ; Colonel Stewart of Catrine ; and Captain Campbell of Ronghdyke. Parochial Registers. — The ancient parochial records are now lost Sometime before the Reformation, the Popish clergy per- ceived their interest declining, and their downfal approaching in the kingdom. To prepare for the worst, they sold their lands in small parcels for ready money, and then departed, carrying with them all their money and effects, and the books and registers be- longing to this, and, it is believed, to other parishes in the neigh- bourhood. The date of the earliest entry in the parochial regis- ter is 17th January 1670. The whole records of the parish are contained in ten volumes. Till about eighty years ago, they were most irregularly kept, being written mostly on detached leaves, so that they are sdmost useless. Antiquities. — At the town-head of Mauchline, on the Green, there was a tombstone, from which it appeared that five men were put to death under the unhappy reign of James VIL of Scotland. Under their names were the following lines : > ** Bloody Dumbarton, Douglas and Dundee Moved by the Devil and Uie Laird of Lee, Dragged these five men to death with gun and sword, Not suffering them to pray nor read God*8 word ; Owning the work of God was all their crime. The eighty.five was a saint-killing time." In 1830, this tombstone was lifted-, and a monument erected by AYR. L 162 AYRSHIRE. subscriptiop in its place. On this monument the above inscription has been carefully preserved. Modem Buildings, — Among the modern buildings, the only one worthy of notice is the new church, opened for public worship on the 2d day of August 1829. The old church, after having stood upwards of six centuries, was found to be both inconvenient and unsafe, and was taken down in 1827, and the present church erected on the same site. It is built of red freestone, chiefly in the Go- thic style. It stands in the centre of the town, surrounded by the churchyard, which is used as the public burial-ground. On the east end of the church stands the tower, about 90 feet in height, and ornamented on the top with turrets. The inside of the church is plain, containing enclosed pews. The galleries are supported by slight cast-iron pillars. The pulpit is highly ornamented. The whole is well lighted. It is reckoned the most elegant church in this part of the country. I II. — Population. The population in 1755, according to Dr Webster, was 1169. Since that time it has been gradually increasing. The cause of the increase is not very obvious. It may arise in part firom the impor- tation of Irish, and partly from the encouragement given to weaving in this part of the country, by the Glasgow, Paisley, and Kilmar- nock manufactories. The population of the town of Mauchline in 1831j was . 1964 In the villages of Haugh and Auchznillan, . . . 1 15 In the country, . . . . . 753 Total, 2292 Hie average number of births for the last seven years, 67 deaths, .... 33 marriages, . . . . 19 persons under 15 years of age, 790 persons betwixt 15 and 90, . . 628 betwixt 90 and 50, . . . 445 betwixt 50 and 70, . . . 250 upwards of 70, . . . 78 The number of fiunilles of independent fortune, . ... 4 Proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50, .11 Unmarried men above 50 years of age, . . 91 women above 45 years of age, . 100 Average number of children in each fiimily, .... 4 ' Number of insane, 2 ; fiituous, 2 ; deaf and dumb, 1 ; blind, 1. Ntimber of families, * • • -^ • <440 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 99 trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 220 The inhabitants are of a middle size, from 5 feet 4 inches to 6 leet 3 inches, and are in general of a strong and healthy constitu- tion. Within the last three years there were 15 illegitimate births in the parish. MAUCHLINE. 163 IV, — Industry. AffricuUure, — The whole of this parish is arable except a small moss of about six acres, and some declivities on the banks of the Ayr, now covered with plantations. All the farms are inclosed and subdivided. The total number of acres is 5732, of these 5400 are cultivated or. occasionally in tillage, leaving 332 under wood, either natural or planted. The kind of trees generally planted, is 6r, larch, ash, oak, beech, plane. On marshy ground the alder, willow, pop- lar, &c« are planted. The mountain-ash, hazel, birch, are indige- nous. The proprietors of the woods are careful in having them pro- perly thinned and pruned. Rent. — The average rent of arable land per acre is L. 1, 5s. The average rent of grazing is at the rate of L. 3 per ox, or cow grazed, and at the rate of 15s. per ewe, or full-grown sheep pastured for the year, 15s. There is no stated rate of labour in the parish. Husbandry. — The principal improvement which has recently been made in agriculture is that of furrow- draining, and nothing but the expense of this plan prevents it from being generally adopt- ed. The few spirited individuals who have drained their land in this manner have been well repaid. In many instances, the value of the land has been doubled, and in some places what was for- merly barren has been rendered most fertile. The general duration of leases is nineteen years. Some land- owners let their land for a shorter period, but this is unfavourable to the occupier, as he is prevented from entering into any plan of im- provement, lest at the expiration of his lease, his farm should be let to another. Others let their farms from year to year, but this plan is injurious both to the owner and the occupier, as the lands remain unimproved, and the houses and fences are allowed to fall into decay. The greastest obstacle to improvement arises from the 4iigh rents paid for the land. Some proprietors imagine, that, by letting their ■ farms to the highest bidder, they will thus make more out of their estates, never' reflecting that the tenant will very soon be unable to pay them, or to carry any plan of improvement into execution, through want of capital The farm houses are in general large and commodious, particu- larly on the estate of Ballochmyle, (which contains about two-6fths of the whole parish.) The houses have almost all been 4ately built, two storeys high, slate roofed, with convenient office-houses. The farms are all inclosed and subdivided by thriving thorn hedges. Quarries. — There is an excellent red freestone quarry near the 164 AYRSHIRE. town, mostly employed for the building of houses. There are also other two of white freestone, near Deacon hill, about three miles to the north-west, the stones of which are much esteemed for their fine grain and colour, and, on account of their durability, are in re- quest for pavement, tombstones, &C Limestone, ironstone, and also coal abound, but, owing to the thinness of the strata, the raising of them has now been aban- doned. Produce,* — The following statement contains the average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as could be ascertained : Produce of grain of all kinds, either cultivated for food of man or the domestic animals, .... L. 6865 10 Of potatoes, turnips, cabbages, carrot and other plants cultiyated in the fields for food, - - - . 2172 5 4 Of hay, whether meadow or cultivated, . . 1 953 Of land in pasture, rated at L. 8 per cow, or full -grown ox graced for the season, ..... 3600 Of gardens and orchards, .... 250 Of the annual thinning and periodical felling of woods, plantations, and copse, - - - - - 500 Of quarries and metals, - - - 300 Of miscellaneous product not enumerated under any of the forgoing heads, - - - - 150 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L. 15,790 15 4 Manufactures. — Under this head may be mentioned, the woollen manufactory at the village of Haugh, which employs upwards of thirty persons, who work eleven hours a-day, and are engaged five days and a-half per week. They are chiefly employed in spinning yam for the carpet manufactory at Kilmarnock. Their wages de- pend upon the expertness of the workmen, as they are paid by the piece. In. the town of Mauchline there is a very extensive manufiictory of wooden snuff-boxes. In this work about sixty persons are em- ployed, who work ten hours a*day, and six days per week. The workmen are remunerated according to their knowledge of the art of box-making or painting. The stranger will be well rewarded by paying a visit to this work, as he will have an opportunity of seeing many elegant specimens of the art. The works are so conducted as to be injurious neither to the health nor the morals of the individuals engaged in them. V. — Parochial Economy. The town of Mauchline is situated on the south side of Mauch- * The above statement is exclusive of the produce of the dairy, which, valued at L. 7 for each cow, but from which the eipense of grazing must be deducted, will amount to L. 3656, and the sale of young cattle, which may amount to L. 800. MAUCHLINE. 165 line- Hilly about a mile distant from the river Ayr. It is neatly built, and contains 1364 inhabitants. It was formerly a burgh of barony ; but about 120 years ago the charter was lost, (when the Register Office at Edinburgh was burnt,) and it has never since been renewed. The principal branches of trade are, weaving, shoemaking, and snuff-box making. It is well governed by the baron bailie and the justices of the peace in the neighbourhood. Villages. — There are two small villages in the parish, Haugh and Auchmillan, the former containing 80, and the latter 35 in- habitants. Means of Communication, — Mauchline being situated nearly in the centre of the county, enjoys easy means of communication with the most distant parts of the country. It has a post-office under excellent management ; and there are two turnpike roads, which cross each other at Mauchline; the one, from Ayr to Edin- burgh, runs in the parish from west to east about four miles ; the other, from Glasgow to London, from north to south, about seven miles in the parish. Alongst this line of road a stage-coach passes twice every lawful day. Over the river Ayr there are several very useful bridges near Mauchline, particularly the new bridge at Barskimming, built by the late Sir Thomas Miller. It excels all the bridges in the county in beauty and elegance, and is one of the greatest curiosi- ties to be seen in it It consists of a single span, the length 100 feet, height 90. Ecclesiastical StdUe. — The parish church is situated in the middle of the town, nearly in the centre of the parish, in the most eligible situation that could have been chosen. It affords accommodation for 1 100 persons. The sittings at present are all free, — no division of the church having yet taken place. The manse was built in 1792, and is in good repair. The glebe consists of 7 acres of good land, and is worth L. 24 per an- num. The stipend consists of 15 chalders of grain, half meal and half barley, the price of which is regulated by the fiars price for the county* The number of Seceders is not great, there being only one dissenting chapel in the parish, belonging to those in connection with the Associate Synod, known formerly by the name of Burghers. Their minister is paid from seat-rents and from collections, — the amount of the stipend being L. 125. The num- ber of families belonging to the Established Church may be stat- ed, 363 ; persons of all ages, 1784 ; communicants, 600. The number of families belonging to the chapel, 83 ; persons of all 166 AYRSHIRE. ages, 448 ; communicants, 226. There are three Roman Catholics in the parish. A Bible and Missionary Society, in connection with the County Society, was instituted in this place in 1815. The amount of the contributions yearly was once L. 24, but since the dispute about pure circulation^ it has greatly fallen off, — now scarcely amounting to L. 14. The amount of collections in the parish church for religious and charitable purposes exceeds L. 70 annually. The church and chapel are in general well attended. Education,' — There are four schools in the town, and one at Crosshands, about two miles distant. There is only one parochial school, the other three in the town are unendowed. At the pa- rochial school, the branches of education taught are, English, writing, arithmetic, practical mathematics, Latin, Greek, and French. At one of the private schools, English, writing, arith- metic, Latin, and Greek are taught. The school in the country is endowed with a house and garden from the Duke of Portland. The parochial schoqlmaster has the maximum salary, a garden, and is allowed L. 9 for house-rent. The amount of school fees about L. 60. The expense of education per annum, for English, 10s.; writing, I2s.; arithmetic, 14s.; Latin, Greek, and French, 16s. The children are sent young to school, generally about five years of age, so that they are able to read and write before they are nine. The people are so far alive to the benefits of education, as to have all their children taught to read ; writing and arithme- tic are less attended to. There are none in the parish upwards of fifteen years of age who cannot read. Literature. — There is a public library in the town, and a reli- gious tract and book society. The books in the library are not numerous. However, additions are made to them yearly. 5s. is paid at entry, and 3s. annually. Charitable and other Institutions, — There are 8 friendly so- cieties in the town, the object of which is to make reciprocal pro- visions for their members while labouring under disease. Two of these societies have existed for twenty years. The funds of the one are L. 240; of the other, L. 160, — the entry-money and quarter- ly accounts according to the age of the individual. The present allowance is 4s. weekly to such as are unable to work, and 6s. if confined to bed. Their regulations have been sanctioned by the Quarter^sessions, and certified to be in conformity to the provisions MAUCHLINE. 167 of the late act of Parliament. These societies are most beneficial to the place. Tliey keep alive the spirit of independence, by prevent- ing any of their members from falling on the parish funds, and thus becoming regular paupers. A Savings Bank was established in 1815. The investments, mostly from the labouring classes, amount to L. 900 ; the sums an- nually invested about L. 140, while nearly as much is withdrawn. Poor and Parochial Fiinds. — The average number of persons re- ceiving parochial aid is 40. They are paid monthly, and receive 5s. each on an average. The funds arising from church collections, mortcloth dues, &c. L. 50 ; the annual expenditure, L. 120. The difference is made up by an assessment annually agreed to by the heritors. None receive parochial aid but the aged and infirm, such as are unable to work for their own support, and whose rela- tions are unable to maintain them. It is considered degrading, so that none but the necessitous make application. Prison. — About six years ago, a lock-up-house, consisting of two cells, was built in the town. It is not designed as a placQ of long confinement It serves the purpose of intimidating the dis- orderly. Fairs, — There are seven fairs in the town, chiefly for the buy- ing and selling of cattle. There is also a horse-race in the end of April. Innsy Alehouses^ Spc, — There are two very good inns, besides 15 alehouses and spirit-shops, but those who keep them commonly deal in other articles, as grocery goods, &c. Alehouses, &c. are evi- dently injurious to the morals of the people, as they lead to dissi- pation, with all its ruinous consequences. The justices of the peace in this district are careful that none obtain license but such as are of a good moral character. , Fuely consisting chiefly of coal, is brought from the neighbour- ing parish of Auchinleck, and also from the parish of Riccarton, a distance of eight miles, and costs 8s. per ton. Peat is procured from the parish of Sorn, and costs 4s. per cart. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the last Statistical Account was written, many important alterations have taken place. The inhabitants are now better edu- cated, consequently more intelligent. Those superstitious obser- vances which were formerly counted oracular, and in which impli- cit confidence was placed, are now altogether neglected, or prac. tised merely for amusement. The existence of ghosts, witches, &c. is now discredited. Fanaticism and bigotry hide their dimi« 168 AYRSHIRE. nished heads. People of different opinions in religion now regard each other as brethren. The employments of the labouring classes have undergone a very great change. The erection of cotton-mills upon an extensive scale at the neighbouring village of Catrine (which have been conduct- ed with unexampled spirit and success) has diffused comfort and happiness to all around. Here the labourer finds employment, and here the farmer finds a ready market for his produce. Spinning, weaving, tambouring, and sewing, have been extensive sources of employment. Common weavers have built for themselves houses, planted gardens, and lived in a style of ease and comfort But there is a tide in the affairs of men ; within the last fifteen years, a variety of causes having brought on a stagnation in commerce, (the most extensive calamity of the kind that has ever been felt in this country,) which has swept away all the particular advantages of the weaver, till at last he is fully more the child of penury and toil than almost any other mechanic. Perhaps, with respect to real comfort, the labouring classes, taking them altogether, are at pre- sent rather behind what they were at the time of the last Statisti- cal Account The system of agriculture has also undergone a considerable change. Some thirty or forty years ago, this parish, like most of its neigh- bours, had gone far in adopting or imitating the agriculture of our eastern counties, and wheat, of course, formed the leading article in its cultivation ; nearly the whole stock of manure was annually ex- pended in supporting the new system ; bear and barley were nearly abandoned; even oats, which have always given, and which per- haps always will give, the most steady and certain return, began to be in a great measure neglected. Alongst with wheat, sUnimer fallow and green cropping were also adopted. But the system had not been many years pursued, before it was discovered that the soil and clipaate of this neighbourhood were decidedly unfavourable to its profitable continuance. So long, however, as the war prices for grain were obtained, the system was enabled to prolong its feeble existence ; but the return of peace, with the consequent peace prices of agricultural produce, seems now to have, in this quarter, finally sealed the fate of the system.. The soil of the pa- rish is not, indeed, generally suited for raising bear and barley, al- though a considerable portion of it is decidedly so ; and if to that portion of it only their cultivation were confined, they would most certainly yield a profitable return. Julj/ 1837. UNITED PARISHES OF MONKTON AND PRESTWICK. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. THOMAS BURNS, MINISTER. I.— Topography and Natural History, Nam^f History^ Sfc. — The parish of Monkton received that name from its connection with the abbey of Paisley, that monastery having extensive and valuable possessions within the parish, which required the residence probably, and superintendence of a certain number of the monks, who, in these early times, were the only class of persons acquainted with agriculture, the construction and management of mills, &c. &c. It appears from the chartulary of the abbey of Paisley, that the original name was Prestwick ; and that in 1163, when that abbey was founded, both the churches of the united parishes were then in existence, and both called by the same name of Prestwick, Prestwick church being called St Nicholas's church of Prestwick, and Monkton church, St Cuth- bert's church of Prestwick. At a later date in the chartulary they are distinguished as Prestwic de burgo^ and Prestwic Monachorum ; and at the date of 1225 there occurs this casual notice of the lat* ter, — Prestwic-^qaoB nunc dicitur villa Monachorum. Both churches were bestowed upon the monastery of Paisley by its founder, Walter, the son of Alan the great steward of Scotland, in 1 163, together with the whole of that rich flat of land which now forms the parish of Monkton,* with the exception of what lies on the east side of the Powburn, which probably was attacb* ed to the religious house of LadykirL The mill of PrestwicJL, novf called Monkton mill, was added to this grant in 1368, when the * Eoclesiam de Prestwic, cum totk terri ilia quam Dovenaldus filius Yweni eis persmbula^it inter terram Slmonis Loecardi ( SymiDgton parish), et terrain de Prest- wic usque Pulprestwic (the Pow burn), et secundum Pulprestwic usque in mare, et a mari secundum torrentem (the Rumbler bum), inter terram Arnaldl (Dundonald parish), et terram de Prestwic usque ad divisas Simonis Loecardi ; et illam eedesiain de burgo meo de Prestwic, cum omnibus pertinentiis suis. — Carta Walteri filii Alani fundatoris de dtrersis terris et eccies. lis col]atts,-«>as contained in the cbartulsry of Paisley. 170 AYRSHIRE^ house of Dalmuliiiy (Dalmelling, in the parish of St Quivox,) a house of canons and nuns of the order of Sempringham or Gil- bertines, with all its possessions, (of which Monkton mill was one,) was made over to the monastery of Paisley. There is no record or tradition extant of any house or convent in Monkton, for the accommodation of these monks. Prestwick church is mentioned in the Paisley chartulary in 1212, as a chapel, and its minister as a chaplain (capellanus), Monkton church was a rec- tory, and continued to be so down to the Reformation. From the general appearance of the present church of Monkton, and in par- ticular from the existence of a Saxon arch over what was once the principal door, it is supposed to be the original structure : in that case it cannot be less than 700 or 800 years old. The bell bears the popish inscription of Sancte Cuthberti ora pro nobisy addressed to the tutelary saint of the church. It is not known when the pa- rishes were united. It appears from the records of the burgh of Prestwick, that up to the year 1570 the union had not taken place, as the ministers of both parishes are mentioned : whereas about 1630 mention is made only of one, as being minister of both pa- rishes. The union probably was the result of necessity, viz. the want of adequate endowments. The parish is sometimes mentioned as the united parish of Monkton, Prestwick and Crosby. This is a mistake. Crosby never was a separate parish. In the chartulary above referred to, We have mention made of Dundonald, with its two chapels of Ric« carton and Crosby. The records of the Presbytery of Ayr, bear that, in 1651, the estate of Crosby at the request of its proprietor, was disjoined from the parish of Dundonald, and, for the sake of being nearer to religious ordinances, was joined to Monkton. In 1688, however, it was again wholly reunited to Dundonald. It would appear that, subsequent to this latter date, the laird of Crosby erected the place of worship, the ruins of which still remain, for the accommodation of the neighbouring population, and it con- tinued for some time as a preaching station, and for a while had a minister of its own. The etymology of Prestwick, (Priest- town,) points to some ec- clesiastical origin, but as to what that is, neither record nor tradition furnishes the smallest light Extenty ^c. — The parish extends to 3^ miles in length, by 3^ in breadth, and contains between 9 and 10 square miles. It is bounded by the parishes of Dundonald, Symington, and Craigie, MONKTON AND PRESTWICK. 171 on the north and north-east; by Tarbolton and St Quivox on the east ; by St Quivox and Newton on the south and south-east; and by the Frith of Clyde on the west Topographical Appearances. — The parish is flat and level, rising to a gentle elevation along the north and north-east boundary. The length of sea coast from the parish of Newton to where Monk- ton joins Dundonald parish is between 2 and 2^ miles. The coast is low, flat, and sandy, with very shoal water. Numerous bluff's and low sand-hills covered with bent, lie along the shore. There are two inconsiderable streams in the parish, the larger of which, the Pow-burn, rising in Craigie parish, and falling into the sea at the boundary between Monkton and Dundonald, turns two corn mills in its course. Geology and Mineralogy, — There are two seams of coal in the southern part of Prestwick lands. The upper seam, which is soft, and in some places foul and mixed with pyrites, has been wrought for upwards of thirty years. It is not now wrought, being nearly exhausted. It was within 6 or 7 fathoms of the surface. The under seam, at the depth of from 33 to nearly 40 fathoms, and 4^ feet thick, is a cleaner, harder, and more splinty coal, and has been wrought for more than twenty years. It is now exhaust- ed to the south of Kingcase dike, a dike which divides all the metals on either side of it This dike is of green whinstone, and crosses the Prestwick lands in a direction from east to west, and at ebb- tide its course can be seen running \^estward into the sea. It re-' appears on the opposite shore of the firth, in the Island of Arran. In the opposite direction, eastward and inland, this dike has been traced upwards of 40 miles. As yet no coals have been wrought in the parish to the north of this dike. Only one stone quarry has been opened in the parish, viz. upon the Prestwick shore, from which excellent freestone, both white and red, are obtained. It is not wrought at present The soil of the parish is various. Immediately along the sea-side, and over a considerable part of Prestwick lands, it is a light sand, so light as scarcely to be adapt- ed for tillage. Around the village of Monkton, and towards the eastern and southern bounds of the united parish, it consists of a fine deep loam, varying from a light and very productive sand to a strong rich earthy clay, all capable of producing every species of crop of the finest quality. To the north and north-east the soil is chiefly a tenacious clay, in some places of excellent quality, and susceptible of great improvement, in others, thin and poor, resting 172 AYRSHIEE. upon a cold bottom^ and not so improveable. Very little of either is adapted to the different kinds of driU husbandry. II, — Civil History. ^ At what period the union of the parishes of Monkton and Prest- wick took place is not known ; but in all probability it was about the time of the Reformation, or shortly after it The original pa- rish churches of both parishes are still standing, and up to May ] 837 were used for the purposes of public worship. The inhabi- tants of Prestwick were entitled to have public worship performed in their own church, by the minister of the parish, every third Sab- bath. These churches are both very old. In the records of the burgh of Prestwick, mention is made of a Justice Aire being held in the burgh church, so far back as the year 1440. The church of Monkton is thought to be at least as old as that of Prestwick. Tradition says, that it is the same fabric in which Sir William Wallace attended divine service on the occasion of his having the remarkable dream mentioned in the seventh book of Blind Harry's poem. The parish formerly extended to the river Ayr, and compre- hended the present parish of Newton. In 1777, the inhabitants of Newton, in consequence of the defective accommodation in the parish churches, erected a Chapel of Ease for themselves. In 1779, having purchased from Sir William Maxwell, at that time patron of the united parish, the right of electing their own minis- ^ter, and the consent of the heritors being obtained, Newton was erected into a separate parish quoad sacra ; the burgh of New- ton still continuing to bear their proportion of the stipend payable to the minister of Monkton i and of the expense of keeping the church of Monkton and Prestwick in repair. The burgh of Prestwick is very ancient, as appears from its pre* sent charter. This charter was renewed by James VI. as admini- strator for his son, *^ Henry, Duke of Rothsay, Earl of Kyle, Carrick, and Cunningham, Lord of the Isles," &c« at Holyrood- house, 19th June 1600, and bears, that Prestwick was known to have been a free burgh of barony for the space of 617 years pre- vious to this renewal of its charter. Kyle, one of the three divi- sions of the county of Ayr, was itself subdivided into Kyle Stewart^ and King's Kyle : the latter, extending from the river Ayr to the river Doon, had Ayr for its head burgh ; the former, extending from the river Ayr to the river Irvine, had Prestwick for its head buTgb. Their charter allows them to choose a provost, bailies. MONKTON AND PRESTWICK. 173 &C9 to hold a weekly market, and a fair upon the feast of St Ni- cholas^ the 6th of December. JLand'Oumers. — The chief land-ow|iers of the parish are, Robert Reid, Esq. of Adamton, who also is patron of the parish ;. R. A. Oswald, Esq. of Auchencruive ; W. G. Campbell, Esq. of Fair- field; A. Murdoch, Esq. of Whiteside and Orangefield; The Duke of Portland ; and Lord James Stuart. The lands of Presto wick are divided into thirty-six freedoms, of from fourteen to six- teen acres each in extent, of which from seven to eight acres may be good arable land. The rest was formerly in a state of common, but some years ago was divided and portioned out among the free- men. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers are the records of the kirk-session, and the register of births and baptisms. The earliest entry' in the latter is in 1702. The former does not ex- tend so far back, the earlier volumes having been lost Both are now kept with considerable regularity. Antiquities. — There are upon the estate of Ladykirk, the pro- perty of R. A. Oswald, Esq. of Auchencruive, the remains of a chq>el dedicated to the Virgin Mary, called in old writings, Lady- kirk in Kyle. This estate was originally part of the barony of Adamton, and belonged to the family of Blair of Adamton, who were patrons of this chapel in Roman Catholic times. The build- ing formed a square with turrets at each corner, with the chapel in the middle. One of the turrets is all that remains of this ruin. Between Prestwick and Prestwick Toll, within fifty or sixty yards of the high road, are still to be seen the ruined walls of King- Case or King's Case, a charitable institution said to have been endowed by King Robert Bruce. Tradition says, that the Bruce, in consequence of great personal efforts in a hard-fought battle, was seized with an eruptive disease of the nature of leprosy ; and that upon his recovery from this disease, under the conviction that his cure had been mainly effected by drinking of the water of King- Case well, he built this lazar-house for the accommodation and relief of such as might be afflicted with the same disorder.* * Kiogcase. The history of this charitably institution is thus ffiven by Chalmers in his Caledonia. << At KUcaitt which is now called Kincate or Kingcase, on the coast of Kyle, in the parish of Prestwick, there was founded an hospital for leprous persona» which was dedicated to St Ninian. Tradition relates that the founder of this esta- blishment was King Robert Bruce, who was himself afflicted with lepro^, the re- sult of hard fiu-e, htfd livinff, and hard work. This hospital was endowed with the kuds of Robert4oanj which is now called Loantf in Dundonald parish ; with the lands of Sheles and Spital Sheles in Kyle Stewart, and with other lands which cannot 174 AYRSHIRE. IIL — Population. According to Dr Webster's report, the population of the unit- ed parish, including Newton, amounted in 1755 to 1163; and as the population of Newton in'^779 amounted to between 800 and 900, the separate population of Monkton and Prestwick, in 1755, could not be more than 400. The subsequent increase, to the present amount of 1818, is to be attributed partly to the improve- ment in the system of agriculture, and the increased expenditure of labour and capital upon the soil ; and partly, and perhaps in a greater degree, to the increase of the cotton manufactures, and the influx of Irish weavers employed in them, into the parish. The number of inhabitants residing in the country is 346 ; in the three villages of Monkton, Prestwick, and Prestwick Toll ; there being 376 in Monkton; 758 in Prestwick; and 327 in Prestwick Toll. There are only two gentlemen of independent fortune resident in the parish, viz. Mr Reid of Adamton, and Mr Campbell of Fairfield, both heritors in the parish. There are in the parish ten separate properties of the annual value of L. 50 and upwards. Number of families in the parish, ----- 382 chiefly employed in agriculture, ... 98 trade, manufiusture, and handicrafit, 2( 9 The number of illegitimate births in the parish during the last three years, as nearly as can be ascertained, was 14. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of acres, Scotch measure, in the pa- now be specified. As the foundation charter of this hospital does not exist, it cannot be ascertained what number of persons were originally maintained in it. It appears, however, to have been governed by a guardian, or prior, and it had a chaplain. In the reign of James II., Wallace of Newton acquired the lands of Spital Sheles, which belonged to this hospital, aa the name implies, and the hereditary office of keeper, or governor of the hospital, and of the lands belonging to it. In January 1515-16, all these were resigned by Hugh Wallace of Newton, in favour of his brother Adam. After the whole property of this hospital was thus granted away, the only revenue that remained to it was the feu-duties, payable from the land, in this manner grant- ed in fee-farm ; and these, amounting to 64 bolls of meal and Smerks Scots of money, with sixteen threaves of straw for thatching the hospital, are still paid. For more than t^o centuries past, this diminished revenue has been shared among eight objects of charity, in equal shares of eight bolls of meal, and one merk Scotch to each. The leprosy having long disappeared, the persons who are now admitted to the benefit of this charity, are such as labour under diseases which are considered incurable, or such as are in indigent circumstances. The right of appointing these belonged to the family of Wallace of Craigiefor a long time, and was purchased about 1790 (in 1787) by the burgh of Ayr, which still holds this patronage. The old hospital, which exist- ed in the * better days of this charity, has been long in ruins.' In the description of Kyle, by Robert Gordon, in the reign of Charles I., he mentions the chapel of this establishment ; and says, that the persons admitted to the charity were then lodged in huts, or cottages in the vicinity." MONKTON AND PRESTWICK. 175 rishi which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, is about 1800. The number never cultivated, or remaining constantly waste or in pasture is 570. There is little of these 570 acres that could, with advantage, be added to the cultivated land of the pa- rish. The only common in the parish is that of Prestwick, which was some years ago divided and appropriated. The number of acres under wood is about 50, mostly planted. Rent of Land. — The average rent of land in the Monkton half of the parish, including 170 acres of sand-bluffs and links on the sea side, is L. 2, 6s. per Scotch acre ; and over the united parish L. 1, 17s. dd. per acre. The average rent of summer gr^ng may be stated at L. 4, 10s. for an ox or milch cow ; and L. 2, 10s. for young cattle. Hiubandry. — The state of husbandry in the parish may be said to be in a very advanced stage of improvement Surface-draining in every alternate furrow, with tiles and stones, has been adopted with the best effects in some of the best land in the parish. The leases are generally of nineteen years. The farm-steadings are generally good, and upon some of the larger farms have been erected in a very complete style, and at great expense. Surface draining, and feeding off the turnip crop on the ground with sheep, appear to be the most important improvements lately introduced into the husbandry of the parish. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish has been ascertained with a considerable attention to minuteness and accuracy, and is as follows, viz. Produce of grain of all kinds, whether for food of man or domestic animals : Wheat, - . L.d,0d2 19 Oats, . . 2,856 17 Barley, - - - 119 PoUtoes and turnips, - 3,092 9 Beans, - - - 796 4 ■L. 6,007 16 3,888 13 Hay, (culUvated) - - - - 809 17 Pasture at L. 4, lOs. per cow, - - 1,867 0.0 Total amount of raw produce, L. 12,573 The total rental of the parish is, L. 4,509. V. — Parochial Economy. The nearest market-towns are Ayr, at the distance of 4 miles from Monkton, and 2^ from Prestwick ; Kilmarnock, at the dis- tance of 8 miles from Monkton, and 9 from Prestwick ; and Irvine, 176 AYItSHIRE. at the distance of 7 J miles from Monkton, and 8^ from Prest* wicL ViUages. — The villages in the parish are three, Monkton, Prest- wick and Prestwick Toll, with populations respectively of 376, 758^ and 827. Means of Communication, — The post-town is Ayr. The parish is intersected, 1st, by the great road from Port-Patrick and Ayr to Kilmarnock and Glasgow — length of this road within the pa- rish 8 J miles : 2d, from Ayr to Irvine and Saltcoats, &c-*length of which within the parish is 8, miles : 8d, from Mauchline and Tarbolton to Irvine, &c — length of which within the parish is 3^ miles : 4th, from Cumnock, and Coylton, and St Quivox, to Irvine, &c — length of which within the parish is 2 J miles. The turn- pike roads all intersect each other at the same point, in the village of M onkton. Besides the mail-coach, sit public coaches pass through Monk- ton and Prestwick every day, three early in the morning from Ayr, two of them to Glasgow, and the other to Edinburgh; and three in the afternoon to Ayr, one of them from Edinburgh, and the other two from Glasgow. Besides these, a regular diligence leaves Kilmarnock for Ayr in the morning, and returns in the afternoon, and another, three times a-week, leaves Irvine for Ayr in the morn- ing, and returns in the afternoon. Ecclesiastical State. — The union of the two parishes has been completed by the competent legal process before the Court of Teinds, and presbytery of Ayr. These courts, by decreet dated 4th June 1834, granting authority for the suppression of the two old churches, and for the erection, on an intermediate situation, of one new church, sufficient to accommodate the united parish. A very handsome new church, accordingly, has been built on a com- manding situation, adjacent to the Pow-bridge, and calculated to contain 825 sitters, that number being exactly two-thirds of the examinable persons in the parish. It reflects the highest credit on the architect, David Bryce, Esq. Edinburgh, and forms one of the most striking objects in the surrounding landscape, and one of the handsomest churches in the '7est of Scotland. Including the purchase of ground, gates and itorrounding walls, &c. &c., it cost about L. 2500, and was opened for public worship on the 14th of May 1837. The manse was built in 1822. The glebe, including the gar- den and the ground occupied by the manse and offices, is about 8 3 MONKTON AND PRESTWICK. 177 Scotch acres in extent, and for the last fifteen or sixteen years reoU ed at from Lb 5 to L« 5^ 5s. per acre. The stipend is 17 chalders of victual, half meal, half barley, with Lb 8, 6s. 8d. as allowance for communion elements. About 600 persons regularly attend church since the new church was opened. There are about 200 Dissenters, young and old, of all persuasions, in the parish ; of these about 60 are Roman Catholics. Divine service is attended with considerable regularity in the parish church. The number of communicants is about 400. The average of collections in the old church was about Lb 35 annually. The average collections in the new church cannot yet be given. Education. — There is one parochial school in Monkton, attend- ed by between 100 and 130 children. ' In Prestwick there is one private school, attended by from 40 to 50 children. There are also two Sabbath evening schools, attended by from 160 to 180 or 200 children, most of whom do not regularly enjoy any other means of education. The branches of instruction taught in the two day schools are, English reading, English grammar, writing, arith- metic, practical mathematics, and, when pupils offer, tlie elements of the Latin language. The parochial schoolmaster has the maxi- mum salary, with a house, school-house, and a garden of the sta- tutory extent The teacher in Prestwick has the use of the town- house of the burgh for a schooKhouse ; and the burgh usually make him an annual allowance for rent of dwelling-house. The school fees, are, for English reading alone, 2s. 6d. per quarter ; for read- ing and writing, Ss. 6d. ; and for all the other branches taught, 4s. It is believed there are very few, if any, in the parish unable to read, and parents in general are very much alive to the benefits of education. The number of schools is sufficient for the parish. Poor. — There are from 15 to 20 poor receiving regular paro- chial aid, to the amount of from 3s. to 4s. a-month. There are also others receivmg occasional aid. The annual amount of con- tributions for their relief may be stated at about L. 50 Sterling, of which Lb 35 is collected at the cliurch door, L. 10 is raised by vo- luntary subscription among the heritors, and the rest is made up by fines, proclamation dues, &c. &c There is still remaining among the poor a considerable reluctance to apply for parish re- lief, if it can by any means be avoided. Prison. — There is one prison in the burgh of Prestwick, which is about to be rebuilt. Imprisonment is not frequent There are four public houses in Prestwick toll, four or five in Prestwick, and AYR. M 178 AYRSHIRE. four in Monkton ; a number much greater than is required, and certainly not favourable to the moral habits of the people. Fuel. — The fuel used in the parish is universally coal, which is procured, the best of it, from the collieries in the neighbourhood of Kilmarnock, also from Newton, and from the collieries on the water of Ayr, at an expense, including carriage, of between 5s. and 5s. 9d. per single horse cart. Miscellaneous Observations. The most striking change in the parish since the date of last Statistical Account, is in regard to the agriculture, the mode of farming, and the amount of farm produce raised^ and of the rental of the parish. At the date of last Statistical Account there was little or.no wheat sown ; now the annual value of wheat raised is L. 3032, 19s. In 17dl the amount of oats raised in this parish was 1315 bolls, and of bear or barley, 399 bolls ; now the annual value of oats raised is L. 2855, and of barley L. 1 19. In 1791 there were 6 or 7 acres of turnips, and 23 or 24 acres of potatoes ; now the annual amount of potatoes and turnips raised is 215 acres, valued at L. 3092. And finally, in 1791, the rental of the parish was supposed to be between L. 1800 and L. 2000 ; now it is' L. 4509, 1 7s. The chief improvement in the husbandry of the parish is tile-draining in every furrow, or every alternate furrow, which might be applied to a large portion of the parish with the , most important results. And the chief error in the system seems to be too frequent white-cropping, as it appears, even under the best management in other respects, to be impairing the productive- ness of the soil. Written in 1832, and revised in 1837. PARISH OF GALSTON. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. ROBERT STIRLING, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Extent and Boundaries. — The parish of Galston is situated in 'the district of Kyle. Its greatest length is about 13 miles, and its greatest breadth about 4^ ; but its figure is very irregular, and GALSTON. 179 accordingly its superficial extent is found to be scarcely 23 square miles. It is bounded on the east by the river Avon, which divides it from the parish of Avendale ; on the north by the Irvine, which separates it from Loudon and Kilmarnock; and on the west by the Cessnock, which divides it from Riccarton and Craigie. Its southern boundaries, by which it is separated from Mauchline and Sorn, are not so easily described. Geoloffy.— The higher land in the parish is called Distinct- horn, about 1100 feet above the level of the sea. This hill, which is near the south-east extremity of Galston, is chiefly composed of old red sandstone, but is found to be frequently inter- sected with whin dikes.* A quarry has been wrought about a mile and a half to the north of this hill, from which a great quantity of excellent pavement and roofing-slate has been procured ; and it has been remarked h^ the workmen, that the sandstone becomes valuable for these purposes, only where it comes to be nearly in contact with the whinstone, by whose vicinity it appears to have been very much indurated. To the north-west of this, is Molmont Hill (neariy 1000 feet high,) which is formecf of trap rocks, such as trap tuS; amygdaloid, porphyry, &c and still farther to the north and west, are found the usual coal measures belonging to the coal basin of Ayrshire. It has been remarked of the coal mines in Galston, and, indeed, of the Ayrshire coal field in gene- ral, that the operations of the miner are frequently interrupted by troubles or whin dikes, which render the working of the coal both expensive and difiicult. The general dip of the strata throughout the parish is north-west. The only mineral deserving of notice, as peculiar to this parish, is an ornamental stone commonly known by the name of Galston pebble. It is found at the west end of Molmont Hill, in the channel of the Burn Ann, which runs into the Irvine at Galston, and it is situated in a bed of hard clay of a greenish co- lour, probably tinged with chrome. There is also found on the top of the last mentioned hill, a vast number of nodules of agate and calcedony, most of them containing quartz crystals in the cen- tre, and very few of them exhibiting beautiful colours. SoiL — The general character of the soil in the higher and eastern parts of the parish is loamy and sandy, with a consider- able tendency in many places to peat ; in the lower and western * There is a considerable number of eminences in this parish, which are covered or capped with whin rocks. 180 AYRSHIRK* parts, the most prevale&t soil consists of different varieties of clay. In the eastern parts, which are generally covered with heath, there are found many trunks of trees of considerable magnitude. One of these was lately dug up from a piece of mossy ground, which appears formerly to have been a small lake about 500 feet above the level of the sea. It proved to be a magnificent oak with a straight trunk, which had once been upwards of 48 feet long, and is still about 3^ feet in diameter at the upper extremity. Two large pieces in good preservation are now kept at Lanfine garden. Whether this tree and its fellows already mentioned, are to be re- garded as the remains of the Caledonian Forest mentioned in the Classics, or to be referred to a still more ancient epoch in the his- tory of our globe, must be left for the decision of more competent authorities than the writer of this account. Along the south bank of the Irvine, ther» are from 400 to 500 imperial acres of rich holm land, which appear evidently to have been formed by successive deposits from the river. It is certain, at least, that the river has at some former period traversed almost every part of this rich tract ; and it may be remarked, to the same purpose, that the uniformity of the soil and subsoil throughout its whole extent, as well as the considerable difference of level at the two extremities, preclude the supposition of its having been depo- sited at the bottom of an anci^pt lake. Climate. — The climate of Galston partakes of the general chap- racter belonging to that of Ayrshire, being ^^ rather moist but not unhealthy." FVom two rain guages kept at Lanfine, it s^pears that the quantity of rain in 1831, was 53.8 inches, and in 1832, 46.12. It is proper to state, however, that the situation of Lan- fine is high, and the fall of rain considerably greater than about the village of Gralston. Bruntwood Loch, with all its winged inhabitants, has disappeared under the grasping hand of modem agriculture, and although Loch Gait does not appear to have suffered from similar encroach- ments, it must now be described as an insignificant marsh. There is nothing worthy of notice in the zoology or botany of Galston. II. — Civil History. Antiquities. — Neither is this parish celebrated by the occurrence of any important event mentioned in history, unless the successful rencontre of the patriot Wallace with the English officer Fen- vrick is to be regarded in that light The cairn which is said to mark the locality of this battle, is still in existence in the vicinity GALSTON. 181 of Loudon Hill, though considerably diminished by the repair of the neighbouring stone-fences. The ^^ rude fortification,'' how- ever, which is said in the former Statistical Account to have shel- tered this hero and his handful of followers, performed the same office to a much more numerous body of warriors, probably not less than 1000 .years before. It is evidently a Roman camp, chosen and fortified with all the military science for which that celebrated people were distinguished. Its ramparts, though much reduced by time and the depredations of the husbandman, may be distinctly, traced throughout its whole extent, and the Praeto- rian and Decuman gates are in a state of tolerable preservation* The original camp to which these remarks apply is 180 yards long and 114 broad ; but there is another inclosure upon a lower level towards the south, which seems to have been added upon a subse-* quent occasion, to accommodate a larger force, or perhaps originally designed for the quarters of the allies. This addition lengthens out the parallelogram jo 258 yards. It does not appear that there have been any gates at the extremities of the'Principia,and, indeed, it is not to be expected from the nature of the ground, which on the right and left sides slopes downwards for twenty or thirty yards, with the declivity of a rampart. Upon one of these slopes there was found in the year 1831, a silver' coin in good preservation, hav- ing this inscription, ciBSAR avgvstvs divi f. pater patrije. This coin is now in the possession of Thomas Brown, Esq. the proprietor of the estate on which the camp is situated, who is also in possession of another Roman coin, found along with many more, a little to the eastward in the parish of Avendale, and inscribed Divvs ANTONiNVS. Those fects and observations taken in connec- tion with the existence of a Roman military way, which may still be traced on the opposite 'bank of the Irvine, furnish incontestable evidence that the parish of Galston has received at least one visit from the masters of the world ; and it furnishes a striking proof of the stupendous scale upon which that wonderful people conducted their affairs, that marches and encampments, too trivial to be re- corded in their military histories, have thus certified their own ex- istence during a period of not less than 1600 years. In connection with these Roman remains may be mentioned an- other military station on the Galston bank of the Aven, about two miles farther to the south. It is nearly surrounded by the river, and fortified, where it is not so, by a rampart and ditch. Its tra- ditionary name in the 4ieighbburhood is Main Castle, which, as 1 182 AYRSHIRE. there is not the slightest vestige of a castle in the modern sense of the word, involuntarily suggests to the classical scholar the Latin designation of Minora Castra. In the absence of evidence, there* fore, to establish any other hypothesis, it may not improbably be conjectured to have contained a detachment of the army stationed on Allanton Beg. It is impossible to ascertain the present owners of all the coins which have been dug up at different times within the parish of Galston.* Mr Brown of Lan6ne is in possession of twenty-seven silver coins which have been found on different parts of his estate, and which bear the names of Alexander, David, and Ed- ward. Parochial Registers. — The parish records are very imperfect and mutilated previous to the date of 1692, from which time there is a regular series of baptisms and minutes of session. The earliest entry is dated 1568, and perhaps the most curious and interesting record, which bears the date of 1640, is a copy of the " Solemn League and Covenant," with the names of the subscribers belong- ing to Galston. The first names attached to this document are, " Alexander Wallace, minister of Galston, Cessnock, Lockhart of Barr, Stewart of Galston, Patrick Shaw of Sombeg.'* The per- son here subscribing " Cessnock" is elsewhere designated Sir Hugh Campbell, who, with John Lockhart of Barr, were the principal heritors or proprietors of land at this time. III. — Population. The following statement exhibits the population of the parish of Galston for a period of seventy-five years : In 1775» it amounted to 1013 1790, - 1577 1801, - 2113 1811, - -3009 1821, . 3442 1831, . 3655 In 1831, fhe number of males was 1808 females 1847 The great cause of the increase of the population which ap- pears in the above statement has been the rise and progress of the cotton manu£aicture. The yearly average of births for seven years prior to 1832 was 1 10 marriagra, * . . . 30 deaths, ... Q9 * Though not strict! v belonging to the antiquities of Galston, it deserves to be mentioned, that this gentleman is in possession of a very interesting collection of an- cient spear heads, battle axes, &c. commonly called Celts, as well as many other cu- rious remains of antiquity. GALSTON. 183 The number of persons of different ages in 1832 was as follows : Under 15, - 1526 Between 15 and 30, 1019 dO and 50, 640 50 and 70, 422 Upwards of 70, - 81 At the same period the number of unmarried men and widowers above 50, was 56 unmarried women and widows above 45 was 1 27 Number of families, ..... 707 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - - 163 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, - 4l5 The average number of children now residing with their parents, or grandfathers or grandmothers is 3/^ for each family where there are any children, and the number of such families is 640. ' Of this population about 2300 live in villages, and are chiefly employed in the different branches of the cotton manufacture. A few of the weavers have lately begun to weave different kinds of fancy silk. The high wages which could formerly be earned at weaving and sewing have introduced among this class a taste for an expensive mode of living, which contributes greatly to abridge the real comforts of life, when wages are verging, as at present, to- wards the lowest ebb. Their condition, therefore, may be now re- ported as far from comfortable, and the discontent naturally aris- ing from this state of things has been greatly increased by the ig- norant or dishonest labours of political agitators, who have taught them to ascribe to oppression and misgovemment, what is chiefly owing to the multiplication of power looms, and other machinery. Whether it be owing to the vain hope of a more adequate remu- neration for their present form of labour, or a love of the ease and apparent independence connected with the cotton weaving trade, in which every man is literally his own task-master, the fact is cer- tain, that few have yet left it to engage in the labours of agricul- ture. The natural consequence is, that the rural labourers are still in the enjoyment of those high wages which the vicinity of manufactures generally produces, and being well fed, and not over- worked, their condition is generally comfortable, and they are con- tented. From this statement, it would be easy to infer the moral and religious character of the population, upon the general princi- ples of human experience. That of the farmers and their servants is, upon the whole, exemplary and good ; that of the manufac- turers, though it is often excellent, is in too many cases very de* fective. The number of illegitimate children during the three years pre- ceding July 1837 was 36. 184 AYRSHIRE. IV. — Industsy* The parish of Galston contains 14,677 acres, imperial measure, which may be distributed as follows : Arable land. 9838 acres. Pasture and moss, . 8780 Plantations, - 964 It is probable that 600 acres of the land which has not yet been cultivated might, with a little outlay, be subjected to the opera- tion of the plough. But this could be undertaken with no other view than to improve the quality of the pasture, — a remark which may be applied to nearly 1000 acres of what is above stated as arable. There is no unappropriated common in the parish ; but the proprietors of land in Galston, and even in a part of Riccar- ton, have a right to cut peat and turf in a certain part of Galston Muir. It will readily be believed, however, that in a country where coals are so abundant, and may be purchased at 48. a ton, exclu- sive of carriage, this privilege is neither highly valued, nor fre* quently exercised. Rent nf Land. — The average rent of arable land is 18s. lOd* per acre, and that of moorland. pasture Is. Id. Husbandry. — The general duration of leases is nineteen years; but upon the estates of the Duke of Portland many of the farms have lately been put upon the English system, and the tenants have properly no leases, but occupy from year to year. This change does not appear to have been brought about for the pur- pose of getting rid of the old tenants, or of enhancing their rents ; still less has it been introduced to stop the progress of improvement On the contrary, the farmer being liberally re- munerated, in case . of removal, for any permanent improvement which he makes upon his farm, carries on his operations with confidence ; and the enlightened and wealthy proprietor has late- ly taken into his own hand the conduct of the most important species of improvement He has erected works for the manufac- ture of draining-tiles, and procured persons of experience in the practice of draining ; and when any tenant wishes to have his farm improved in this way, he has only to carry the tiles to the field to be drained, and to furnish straw to cover them in cases where it is necessary, and the whole work is performed without any farther ex- pense to him, except the payntent of a yearly sum proportioned to the distance at which the drains are placed. This distance varies from 14 to 18 feet, and the yearly sum paid by the farmer varies O ALSTON. 185 io an inverse proportion, from 6b. 6d. to 5s. per acre. It is scarce* ly necessary to state, that the drains are placed in the furrows, and that, after they have been made, the breadth and position of the ridges is not allowed to be altered. If this improvement had been left to the spontaneous and unaided exertions of the farmers, it would in all probability have gone forward Very slowly, owing to the want of capital and enterprize, and still more to the proverbial caution of that class of men. In fact, the mere example of a simi- lar system of draining, which had existed in Ayrshire sometime be- fore the commencement of his Grace's operations in Scotland, had been found insufficient to give an impulse to the industry of the farmer. But upon the liberal system above-described, which re- moves every considerable risk from the tenant to the proprietor, the operation of draining has been found so easy and beneficial, that the tile-works cannot supply the rapidly increasing demand* Nay, such has been the impulse given to agricultural enterprize by the extensive practical evidence of the advantages of thorough draining furnished from the estates of the Duke of Portland in Ayrshire, that tile- works are now rising in all quarters, and it is probable that in a very few years these advantages will be shared by the whole county. Many and great improvements have also been made upon the estate of Lanfine by the late and present proprietor, particularly in the formation of many miles of good roads, in draining and re- claiming waste lands by bounties given to the tenants, and in ex- tensive and judicious plantations* On this estate alone there are now upwards of 800 imperial acres of thriving plantations, which promise to be highly beneficial as well as ornamental to that exten- sive property. The wood most commonly planted by Mr Brown is larch and other kinds of fir, with a mixture of oak, ash, elm, &c» in places adapted to their growth. Nothing can be more strikingly at variaiyce than the methodic which are followed by the Duke of Portland and Mr Brown in the management of their plantations. The latter puts in the plants at first at distances of not less than a yard every way, and care- fully thins them as they advance in size ; while the former plants at less than half a yard, and allows no thinning, at least for many years, but what is accomplished by the stronger plants killing the weaker. ^^ Nun nostrum inter vus tantas coinponcre Ut«s." Experience has not yet fully decided, at least in the parish of 186 AYRSHIRE. GalstoD, to which of those methods the preference ought to be given. In the meantime, it may be expected that his Grace's system should at length produce the straighter and more useful wood ; while it is generally supposed that the protracted struggle for ascendency among the plants must considerably enfeeble and retard their growth. "Jt is but justice, however, to state, that some oak woods around the old mansion-house of Cessnock, which were planted upon this system about twelve years ago, discover a luxuriance of growth which is very striking, and can scarcely be surpassed in plantations of the same species of tree upon a similar soil, whatever may be the system of management For the fir tribe his Grace's method does not seem to be so beneficial. Farm-Bmldinffs. — The state of the farm-buildings in this parish is in general good, and suited to the wants and habits of the far- mers ; and where it is otherwise there appears to be a rapid advance in the way of improvement. The fences are in many places very indifferent, while in others they have been greatly improved, and even rendered excellent by the practice of frequent scutching or pruning. Husbandry. — The system of agriculture almost universally fol- lowed in Galston is one which, however it may be condemned by the modem school, has at least the praise of being long establish- ed, and highly esteemed by those who practise it It consists in taking two successive white crops, (almost always of oats,) and one crop of rye-grass hay, and allowing the land to lie in pasture during the remaining five years, which complete the rotation. It will readily be inferred from this statement, that the produce of the dairy is the object of primary consideration in this district, and accordingly it may be stated, upon a moderate computation, that at least 210 tons of cheese are annually produced in Galston. Live-Stock. — The breed of cows found in this parish is that which is commonly known as the Ayrshire breed, on the selec- tion and rearing of which, as well as upon the general manage- ment of the dairy, the farmers bestow great attention. The sheep on the few farms where that kind of stock is kept belong to the common black-faced breed. Produce. — It is impossible to ascertain with absolute correct- ness the gross amount of raw produce raised in this parish even for a single year, since but few of the farmers are accustomed to keep regular accounts, and some of them are rather averse to com- municate the results even when they can. The following state- 3 GALSTON. 187 ment is founded upon many careful observations and inquiries in different parts of the parish, and though it be only the result of a combination of partial averages, will be found to be pretty near the truth. It certainly does not, upon the whole, exceed the truth. Average grosft produce of grain, . L. 12,210 Cheese and butter, . . 9,8*28 Black cattle and sheep nold, . . 8kI00 Hay and straw, . . . 7,751 Poutoes, turnips, &c. . . 3,340 Of lime, . . . . 216 Of coals, .... 1,146 Thinning and felling of woods, . 650 Quarries, orchards, &c. . . 405 L. 38,736 V. — Parochial Economy. Marhet'Town — Means of Communication. — There is no market- town in this parish, the nearest being Kilmarnock, which is five miles distant from the village of Galston. With this town as well as Glasgow, and indeed all parts of the kingdom, the communica- tion is easy by means of excellent turnpike-roads, of which about ten miles fall within the parochial boundaries. The parish roads amount to upwards of twenty miles, and are generally kept in very good order. There are two carriers who go to and return from Glasgow, each twice in a week, and one carrier to Kilmarnock, who goes every lawful day. There is also a daily communication with Ayr, Edinburgh, and all the intervening places, by means of a stage-coach, which passes through the village, and a coach from Glasgow to London by Dumfries passes through another part of the parish. There is a penny-post in the village, and a daily de- livery of letters. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated in the village of Galston ; and as there is here a population of nearly 1900 imme- diately contiguous to the church, its situation with regard to the general mass of the parishioners cannot be said to be inconvenient At the same time there are several houses in the eastern part of the parish which are about eight miles distant from the village, and the regularity with which some of their inhabitants attend the parish church, in spite of its distance, must be acknowledged to be high- ly creditable to their religious character, as well as indicative of their attachment to the national establishment The present church was built in 1808) on a neat and substantial plan, and is ornamented with a spire and clock. It affords sittings for 1020 ; of which number, however, there are not more than 250 appro- priated to the villagers, the rest being divided amongst the hen* t8d AYRSHIRE. tors and occupiers of land. About 50 of these sittings are strict- ly free, and for the remaining 200 a small rent is paid, rather for the purpose of appropriating them to the most regular occu- pants, than for defraying the expense of erection. The pro- duce, amounting to about L. 10 annually, is thrown into the poor's funds. The manse was built in 1795, and after undergoing the repairs which generally become necessary in a short time where houses are built by contract, it may now be reported as a good and com- fortable house. The glebe contains about 14^ imperial acres, and the productive part of it may be stated at the annual value of L. 18. The stipend consists of the whole teinds of the parish, which amount to 202 bolls, 3 pecks, Sj lippies of meal ; 13 bolls, 1 fir- lot, 1 peck, I lippies of bear, and L. 5, 7s. 9|d. of money, besides L. 1, lis. 8d., paid by certain lands in the parish of Tarbolton. There is one Dissenting chapel in the village of Galston, which is occupied by members of the United Secession Churc|). The minister is supported by the voluntary contributions of his people, and the average amount of stipend is L. 110. The number of families under the exclusive superintendence of the parochial minister is 673^ and the families connected with the different denominations of Dissenters amount to 169. The re- lative proportions of individuals connected as above is not so easily ascertained, but it may safely be stated to 1)0 still higher in favour of the Established Church. The average number of its communi- cants is 830. Education. — There are 5 schools within the bounds of this pa- rish, — in four of which the teachers undertake to give instruction in Latin, arithmetic and book-keeping, writing, English reading and grammar. The parish schoolmaster has the maximum salary appointed by Act of Parliament, and provision is made by the heritors for a salary of L. 5, 12s. to two of the other teachers. The fees at all these schools are 2s. 6d. per quarter for English reading, 36. for writing, 3s. 6d. for arithmetic, and 4s. for Latin ; but as the higher branches always include the lower, the greatest sum paid by one pupil for education is 16s. a^year. With such facilities for instruction, it is not surprising that there should be scarcely a single native of the parish who cannot read ; but as this has happily been the case for many years, it is impossible now to ascertain the change which may have been produced upon the character of the parishioners by the universal prevalence of educa- GALSTON. 189 tion. Without doubt this universal capacity of reading, exercised as 4t is by a public library, containing a considerable number of useful and entertaining books, must have a powerful influence in increasing the enjoyments, and improving the morals of the people. Yet, notwithstanding the ample provision thus made for the education of youth, the state and prospects of the manufacturing community in Galston have for several years been such as to excite strong apprehensions that the education of their children would for the future be neither so general nor so complete. The wages of the hand-weavers have been so very low as to render it impossible for many of them to pay for the instruction of their children, even at the moderate rate of 10s. a-year. In these circumstances, the inbabttants of Galston have great cause to congratulate themselves, that the late Mr Charles Blair of Lon^bouse, one of the heritors of the parish, bequeathed the whole of his property, amounting to nearly L. 4000, for the erection and endowment of a free school. It is expressly ordered in Mr Blair's will, that no steps be taken for this purpose, till the free annual rent of his bequest amount to L. 200 a-year ; and on this account the parish will not begin to reap the actual benefits of this laudable institution till after the ex- piration of six or eight years. In the meantime, however, it is pro- per to state, that a legacy of L. 1000, left by John Brown, Esq. of Waterhaughs, for a similar purpose has for many years furnished the means of clothing and educating six children from the parish of Galston, and as many from that of Loudon. It is) scarcely ne- cessary to add, that these two charitable bequests have been put under the most judicious regulations, and that they promise to pro- duce the most extensive and beneficial efiects upon the intellectual and moral state of the community. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons re- ceiving parochial aid for a period of seven years prior to 1832 was 24 annually. The average allowance to each per year is L. 4, 1 8s. ditto per week. Is. 10^ The annual sum expended in their sup- port, L. 117, 4s. 9d.; of which there arose from collections, &c. L.48, 186. 9d.; from assessment upon the heritors (alone,) L. 68, 6s. It must be remarked, however, that the number of poor, and the sum expended upon their maintenance, has greatly increased within the two years lately expired, so that the assessment for the poor alone amounted, in 1832, to L. 215. The great mass of the people are sufficiently sensible of the degradation that is in- separable from a state of dependence, and are sufficiently backward 190 AYRSHIRE. to apply for parochial aid. But there is a pretty numerous class of the manufacturing population who have been taught to found their claims for support not upon the statutes nor the legalized practice, of the nation, and still less upon the principles of Christian charity ; but upon some vague notions of natural right It is not surprising that some persons of this class should neither be very solicitous to provide for their own independence, no? very reasonable in their de* mauds when £hey come to stand in need of relief. Fairs, — There are annually four fairs in Galston, none of which, however, is of public importance. The most frequented are held on the third Thursday of April, and on the 6rst Thursday of De- cember. Alehouses, — The number of alehouses or rather of whisky shops is 14, — a number which will be thought by far too great for the population. But little advantage would be gained by the mere di- minution of their numbers, if the deleterious fluid which they retail can be procured from the spirit-dealers at its present low price, and consumed as it is at present in the drunkard's own house, and even in the fields. There are now only four corn-mills and one lint or flax-milU The paper-mill mentioned in the former report still remains, and two of the others have been converted into saw-mills. Miscellaneous Observations. When the present state of the parish of Galston is compared with what it was in 1790, it will certainly be found in many re- spects to have undergone considerable changes, and, as far as out- ward appearances are concerned, great improvements. The sys- tem of agriculture is indeed nearly the same, and perhaps it is that which is best suited to the soil and climate. But the implements with which the husbandman now labours are far more perfect, and the skill and industry with which he conducts his operations much greater. The hand of taste has also adorned the barren moors with thriving woods and smiling pastures, and rendered the pros- pect from Molmonc Hill fairer and more enchanting than ever. It is in the moral aspect of this parish that any thing like decay or de- terioration is to be found. The cotton manufacture, along with wealth and population, has introduced its too frequent attendants, vice and impiety. And although Galston has perhaps less reason to bewail these unhappy changes than many parishes in a similar situation, it must still furnish its quota to the accumulating mass of practical evidence which damps the benevolent aspirations of the ARDROSSAN. 191 philanthropist, annihilates his Utopian visions of earthly perfection,* and proves that even the blessings of civilization are always alloy- ed, and sometimes outweighed, by evils from which it seems to be inseparable. July 1837. PARISH OF ARDROSSAN. PRESBYTERY OF IRVINE, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JOHN BRYCE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Ardrossan is the only name by which this parish has been ever known. It may be derived from the Celtic words, Ardj high, ro8j a promontory, and an, a diminutive, and may signify a highish promontory, which is descriptive enough of the small hill, on which the remains of the Castle of the ancient Barons of Ar- drossan still stand. Situation^ Boundaries^ ifc. — This parish issituatedin the district of Cuninghame, the north division of the county of Ayr. It is bounded on the south-west by the Frith of Clyde ; on the north- east by Dairy ; on the south-east by Stevenstonand Kilwinning ; and on the north-west t)y West Kilbride. It extends in length about 6 miles ; its greatest breadth is about 4 miles ; and it contains, ac- cording to Robertson, about 1 1 square miles. Topographical Appearaiices. — The surface is a mixture of hilly and flat country, and almost all of it fit for the plough. From the south-east corner of the parish, for more than a mile, the ground along the shore may be described as an inclined plane of consi- derable breadth, gently rising towards hills of difierent heights, which nearly stretch across the whole parish. These hills increase in height towards the north-west, and also approach nearer the shore, where they terminate in steep banks, which bear evident marks of having at one time been washed by the sea. The highest hill in the range is Knockgeorgan^ which is upwards of 700 feet above the level of the sea ; from which, when the atmosphere is £sivourable, the hills in ten counties may be easily seen. The others are of various elevations, to about 400 feet Clumps of 192 AYRSHIRE. trees cover the summits of many of them ; and it were desirable that these were more in number, both for shelter and ornament. From this ridge towards the north-east, the ground declines some- what, but still presents a considerable inequality of surface* Coast. — There is a sea coast of three miles, taking the direct line from Saltcoats to Kilbride ; but following the curvatures of the shore, considerably above four miles. The general character, of the shore is flat Between Saltcoats and Ardrossan there is a beautiful sweeping bay, about three quarters of a mile in length, with a fine sandy beach, which forms a favourite promenade to strangers in the sea-bathuig season. At Ardrossan the shore be- comes more irregular and rocky. Ridges of shelving rocks stretch out to a considerable length on both sides of the Inch, an islet at high water. 3eyond Ardrossan on the north-west, there is an- other bay of greater extent than the one on the south side. From this to the junction of the parish with Ealbride, the coast presents little indentations : the shore becomes more stony and uneven ; oc- casional ridges of rocks are visible at low water ; and a few spe- cimens of boulder-stones may be seen. Islands. — About a mile off the harbour of Ardrossan towards the north-west, there is a small islet, called the Horse Isle, which, according to Pont, takes its name, not from horses being pastur- ed in it, " hot from ye surname of Horsse of ye Philipe Horsse, sone-in-law to Sr Richard Morwell, who, in old evidents, wea stylled Phillipus de Horssey, Janitor Comitis Gallovidise.'' It contains about twelve acres of good pasture, with a tolerable sup- ply of fresh-water. It lies very low, and there is a beacon-tower erected upon it for the benefit of seamen, by the late Earl of Eglinton. It is to be regretted that a light-house had not been established instead of it. With a view to procure one, petitions from all the towns on the coast were, some years ago, forwarded to the Commissioners of Light-houses, but their prayer has not yet been granted. Climate. — The climate is in general mild and pleasant, the sea breeze moderating both the heat of summer and the cold of winter. There is no disease which may be said to be peculiarly prevalent in this parish. The dryness of the soil, the absence of marshes, and the constant sea breeze, tend to render it very healthy. Cholera, which was so fiaital in the neighbouring towns of Steven- ston. Dairy, and Kilbride in 18d2, never appeared here. Typhus and other epidemics occur occasionally, but they are always ARDROSSAN. 193 of short continuance. The quaint though equivocal commen* datioD of the climate by a medical practitioner is, ^< that fevers won't live mth us." The great resort of valetudinary people here in the season of bathing is an evidence of the general opinion of its salubrity. And the great age to which many of the people at- tain is an indubitable proof of it Hydrography. — There is no stream in the parish deserving the name of river. Two small streamlets, the Stanley and Monfode bums, descend from the higher grounds to the shor^ on each side of Ar- drossan ; and a third, the Munnock, or Caddel Bum, considerably larger, in the upper part of the parish, falls into the Caaf, which di- vides the parish on the north-east from Dairy. There is abundance of springs, and the water good. Near the shore, however, and espe- cially in the town of Ardrossan, the water is hard and somewhat impr^nated with the carbonate of iron, which makes it, though wholesome enough, not so useful for cooking and washing. At a very small expense, water of an excellent quality, and in sufficient quantity, could be brought from the high grounds, to supply both the town and harbour of Ardrossan. There is a small chalybeate 2$pring between Saltcoats and Ardrossan, but it has never been analysed, and its virtues are unknown. Mineralogy. — Coal is said to be found throughout nearly the whole parish; and in the northern part and neighbourhood of Saltcoats, it has been wrought to a considerable extent. At pre- sent there is no coal wrought There are three limestone quar- ries in the upper part of the parish, which are wrought more or less. Two of them are the property of Lord Eglinton, and the other of Archibald Cuninghame, Esq. of CaddeL The tenants on their respective properties are kindly allowed the use of these quarries gratis. The lime is of a good quality, and the quarry on Girthill being level firee, the stone is dug at present for about a shilling per ton. Freestone, both red and white, is very abundant At the town of Ardrossan, there is a large quarry of the former, of which the quay and many of the houses in the town are built In this quarry, Robertson says, that petrifactions of wood were met with, apparently of fir; in some cases with the bark entire. Since the formation of the railway, the fiicility with which stone of a superior quality can be procured from the Stevenston quarry has almost superseded the working of the Ardrossan freestone. At Ardrossan, too, are found various kinds of whinstoue ; whole rocks of which have been blown down and carried away to form AYR. N 194 AYRSHIRE the breakwater at the harbour. On the west side of the baths, within high water-mark, there are several strata of excellent ironstone, from two inches to nearly five feet in thickness ; but which lying on their edge could not be wrought but at very great expense. These strata are separated from one another by slate. Several specimens of pyrites have also been found in this neigh- bourhood, but they are rare. Geology. — There are many appearances that lead us to conclude that a considerable portion of the lower grounds of this parish were, at a period not extremely distant, under the dominion of the sea. Sub-fossil sea-shells, such as are at present found on the shore, have been found in gravel pits, and in the earthy banks of Stanley Burn, as fiir up as Kirkhall. They have also been found in a sec- tion of the Castlehill, pretty near the summit. The greatest mass, however, of these shells that we have seen, is in the sandy bank of this bum, a little above the railway bridge, and near the Holm' Nursery. In a section of the bank, about 4^ feet above the level of the stream, and about 6 feet above the present level of the sea at high-water, there is a pretty extensive stratum of shells, about 2 feet under the surface of the ground, at some places above, and at other places below, a bed of sand and water-worn stones. The predominant shell is Mactra stibtruncata. We observed also Turbo Kttaretigf Nerita littoralis^ Trochtu dneraritu^ Mytiba edvlis^ and TeUina tenuis. Some of the Mactra were filled with sear-weed^ but we could not with certainty determine the species. In one of the shells we found a specimen of coralline, which could easily be ascertained to be Sertularia polyzanias. From the various pheno- mena that present themselves, we have no doubt that the C&stlehill at Ardrossan was once an island. That the water has receded along this shore there can be no doubt At the Castlehill, above noticed, there is still pointed out a spot at which boats were fasten- ed to the rock. This spot is now distant from the water at high mark about 400 yards. Pont, the topographer of Cuninghame, who wrote circa 1620, speaks of a well in the castle that ebbed and flowed with the tide. He has also the following notice : ^* Nette lyle is a small lyland neir ye Castell of Ardrossan, quher ye Earle of Eglintoune hath a salmond fisching by netts, from which ye lyland is so named." So fiur has the water receded, that the piece of ground here alluded to (the Inch) never appears as an island ex- cept at high water ; and it is not at all known by its former name. In the low lands of Homebyre, in the upper part of the parish. ARDROSSAN. 195 in 18d2y between 4 and 7 feet below the sur&ce, there were dug up a great number of hazel nuts with the kernels entire, but so tender as scarcely to bear being handled. SoiL — Between the sea and the foot of the hills the soil is in ge- neral light and sandy, and in the higher and more inland parts, it 18 chiefly of a tough clay, though in many places mixed with a bet- ter kind of earth. Throughout the whole parish, the soil may be said to be fertile ; rendered so by long cultiyation, and in the lower parts by the copious application of sea-ware, and in the higher, by draining and the free use of lime. Zoology. — Much attention is paid to the breed both of horses and cows, especially of the latter. The Cuninghame breed of cows is well known, and highly valued, both on account of the beauty of their form, and the quantity of milk which they yield. The Cuninghame or Ayrshire cow is of a moderate size, generally of a brown colour, mixed with white spots; the neck and head small; the horns short ; the limbs slender ; the udder finely shaped ; the body straight from the shoulder to the tail, and all the parts well proportioned. When and by whom this breed of cows was intro* duced into the country, or from what place they were brought, are questions which ha?e never received a satisfactory answer. About eighteen years ago, a peculiar race of cows was kept in Lord £^lin* ton's parks at Ardrossan. They had no horns, were all white, with the exception of the muzzle and inside of the ears, which were black. When fully grown they weighed from twenty-five to thirty stones avoirdupois. Their number was limited, and being very shy, they had to be killed by shooting, which it required some precaution to accomplish. At his Lordship's death they were all sold ofi*, and with them, according to some, perished the la3t remains of the breed of the ancient cows of Scotland. Besides the horses employed in husbandry, a few are bred for sale ; many young cattle reared, and cows fattened for slaughter. Some of the farmers keep a few sheep, and almost all of them pigs, which in summer are fed with whey, of which those who make cheese have a greater quantity than they can either sell or use in their own families. Sea-birds of almost every name frequent the coast, and many of them lay their ^gs ' and hatch their young on the Horse Isle. The rocks along the shore towards the north of Ardrossan are much frequented by seals. Otters are found in the Stanley and Caddel Bums, and Caa£ Polecats are no strangers, and the badger may sometimes be seen in Monfode bank. There is a large fox cover on Knock-georgan. 196 AYRSHIRE. The weasel, hedgehog, mole, and rat are found. Hares and par* tridges abound, and grouse and black-cock are tolerably abundant in Busby Moor. Pheasants, wood-pigeons, wild-duck, teal, and lapwing, are also found. The cuckoo, land-rail, and the swallow, annually visit the parish. The starling and swift build in the ruins of Ardrossan Castle. Fish of the following species are caught on the coast: salmon, haddock, cod, whiting, ling, mackarel, herrings, sole, flounder, skate, turbot, mullet, &c. — Crabs and lobsters are also found. The quantity of shell-fish is but small. CoralUncM. D. operculata CellularU reptans Dynamena abietina Sertularia polyzonias Crisia ebumea, &c. Botany. — For the following lists the compiler is indebted to his excellent neighbour, the minister of Stevenston. Phcenogamous Plants. Cicuta virosa C. articulata Pinguiciila vulgaris Malva inoscfaata Odonthalia dentate P. Lusitanica Carum verticillatum Rhodomelia lyoopodioides Lycopus Europeus Sagina procumbens, fl. pi. Delesseria sanguinea, &c. Anaffallis tenella Dipaacus sylvestris Vaccinium vitis- Idasa Pedicularis sylvatica, v. alba. Mouet. V. oxycoocos Habenaria bifolia Hookeria lucens BellisperennisyV. prolifera Carex yedcaria Polytrichum urnigerum Eupatorium cannabinum Spergula nodosa Didymodon rigididus Camelina sativa Botrychium lunaria D. crispulus Empetrum nigrum Salicornia herbaoea Brvum carneum Triglocbin maritimum Hyinenopbyllum Wilsoni Tnchostomum fasciculare Barbarea vulgaris Griznmia maritima Lynmacbia thyrsiilora Algte, Jungermannla tricuspidate CEnanthe crocate Lichina pygmaea Dicranum adiantoides (E. pimpinelloides Plocamium coccineum D. bryoides, &c« Conium maculatum Chylooladia kaliformis 11. — Civil History. Of the ancient history of this parish hardly any thing worth notice is known. A modem account of it was published by Mr Robertson of Bowerlodge, in 1819, in his description of Cuning- hame. • Eminent Men. — Of eminent men connected with the parish there is no record, unless Dr Robert Simpson, the celebrated Professor of Mathematics in the University of Glasgow, be excepted. The professor was an heritor in the parish, and passed the recess of col« l^e for many years on his own property at Knockewart. Land-owners^ with their respective valttatians : — The Earl of Eglinton, - - - L. 1973 4 8 Archibald Cuninghame of Caddel, . - 240 16 8 James Carrick Moore of Corsetrall, - 213 S 6 Captain John Brooks of Knockewart, - - 126 13 4 John Dunlop, of Dunlop, - - 115 Colonel Alexander Hamilton of Grange, - • 50 The Heirs of Mrs Morris of BankencC - - 50 John Gemmil of Little Laught, - - 30 12 Robert Weir of KirkhaU, - - - 26 Thomas Yonng of Springvale, - - 15 6 8 L.2840 16 10 ARDROSSAN. 197 The last two excepted, none of these heritors are resident in the parish. Parochial Registers. — From a memorandum in one of the vo- lumes, of date 1755, it appears that registers of baptisms, from May 28, 1682 till May 23, 1725, had been regularly kept, but which have long been lost. From 1742 till 1787, lists of baptisms and marriages have been regularly kept, and with a little interrup- tion at this period till 1802, — from which last date till 1816 they are very imperfect ; but they have since been kept with great ac- curacy. Antiquities. — Only a very imperfect account can be given of any remains of antiquity that are yet to be seen in the parish. The di- lapidated remains of the Castle of Ardrossan, a venerable monu- ment of time long gone by, stand on the small promontory{above- mentioned, which gives name to the parish. It is said that this castle, in the days of Baliol, being in the hands of the English, Wallace, with some trusty followers, came secretly to the neigh- bourhood, and set fire, at night, to the village at the base of the Castle-hill. The garrison seeing the flames, and not suspecting the enemy to be at hand, hurried forth to quench the fire, when Wallace and his chosen band rushed in, and having taken posses- sion of the gates, slew all the English as they returned, and cast their dead bodies into the dungeon, which, from that circumstance, was called Wallace's Larder.* This once princely mansion is said to have been habitable so late as the time of Oliver Cromwell, who is reported to have reduced it to its present ruinous state. In .the former Statistical Account of this parish, it is said that ^' he threw down the walls of the castle, carried the stones over sea in boats, and with them built the fort of Ayr." Two fragments are now all that remain. The castle and barony of Ardrossan an- ciently belonged to a powerful family of the same name, according to some, or Barclay, according to others ; f perhaps to both at * In making a cut, close by the south side of the castle, for the railway in 1629, a large massy gilt bronze ring, with signet, was found, and which, from the letter W on it, is supposed to have belonged to this noble assertor of his country's independence. The ring is now in the possession of the Rev. David Landsborough of Stevenston. f The first of this family, says Robertson, that has come under my notice is, Dom. Fergus Ardrossan de eodem, in 1260. .A Sir Fergus de Ardrossan accompanied Edward Bruce in his Irish expedition in 1316. The last of them mentioned in any record that I have seen is Godfrey de Ardrossan, who is witness to an undated charter in the reign of David II. to the Abbot of Kilwinning.— Hist, uf Cuninghame. Fergus of Ardrossan was one of the Scots barons who, in 1320, signed the celebrat- ed letter to the Pope, complaining of the aggressions and pretensions of Edward of England. Arthurus de Ardrossan is witness to a charter Hugeni de Crawford dc terris de Monaeh, in 1226. 198 AITRSHIRE. different times. The last baron leaving at his death an only sister, or an only child, a daughter, she carried the estate by marriage to the Eglintons of Englinton, from whence it came soon after to the Montgomery family, by marriage of the heiress of Eglinton. Since the union of these two families by this marriage, the estate has continued for several centuries the property of the Earls of Eglinton. On the estate of Monfode, or Montfode, as it is now written, there stands an old baronial castle, much injured by time and the hand of man. The estate of Monfode continued for many ages the property of a family of the same name ; but it passed froin them about a century and a half ago, and no vestige now remains to tell that they once existed. * It at present belongs to Mr Carrick Moore, of Corsewall, brother of the lamented General Sir John Moore, who so bravely fell at Corunna. On Knock-georgan are still distinctly to be seen the remains of an ancient camp or fortification, particularly the ramparts and gateways. From its circular form it is generally supposed to be Danish. On another hill there is an artificial mound of the form of a parallelogram, sixteen yards in length, nine in breadth at the top ; and its sides, which are sloping, about nine yards in height. The above fortification and mound stand in very elevated situa- tions, from which there is a prospect for many miles both of sea and land. Tradition has preserved no information concerning the persons by whom, or the design for which, they were erected* Modem Buildings. — Of modem buildings may be mentioned, 1. The town-house of Saltcoats, a moderately sized building of two stories, with a handsome spire, clock, and bell. It contains one spacious room, which is used as a reading-room, and for the monthly meetings of the Justice of the Peace Court for the dis- trict There are, besides a small lock-up, a room for the town library, and a committee roonu The ground floor is occupied with shops. 2. A branch of the Ayrshire Banking Company has with* in these few years been established in Saltcoats, with excellent new premises. 3. The Gaelic chapel, now finished, situated at the west end of the town of Saltcoats, facing Ardrossan. It is a neat * Agnes de Monfode, says Robertson, was married to a Sir John Douglas in the reign (? David II. This is the earliest notice that I have seen of them. In 1417, Finlam de Monibde de eodem appears on an inquest at Irvine, llie last time that anv of them is ibund in any record that I have seen is in 1661, when John de Mon- Ibde of Monibde is named among the commissioners of supply for the shire of Ayr. 4 ARDROSSAN. 199 small Grothic buflding, with Saxon door-way, small belfry — and the ground around it walled in, with pillars and iron rails in front. IIL — Population. The state of the population of this parish at an early period can- not be given with certainty, as no record of it has been kept; but there is satis&ctory evidence to shew that it has tripled within less than a century : — PopulAdonin I79I, - 1518 1811, - 2526 1821, - d200 1831, - S595 inclusive of seamen. The constant employment given for many years to a great many hands at the harbour of Ardrossan, — of late years in the formation of the railway, — the great increase of trade by an additional harboiu: within a mile of Saltcoats, — the improved state of agriculture, — many families from Ireland and the Highlands settling in the place, — and a few unconnected with business, from partiality to the situa- tion, either renting houses or building for themselves, — may be sup- posed to account for the increase of the population. Of the present population, from a recent enumeration, there reside in the country part, families ••..... 58 In the town of Saltcoats, do. ...... 575 Ardrossan, do. . . 184 Total number of fitmilies at present 817, and average number in each fiunily above 4^ The yearly average of births for the last seven years is about . 90 of deaths .... 70 of marriages .... 90 Number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 50 women upwards of 45, . . 1 42 The number of blind persons, 1 ; insane, 2; fatuous, 1. The number of proprietors of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards is . 8 No nobility reside in the parish. Character^ S^c. of the People. — In 1650, various cases of witch- craft occurred in this parish, as appears firom the records of the Presbytery of Irvine. Among others, Mai^ret Couper and Ka- tharine Montgomerie, both of Saltcoats, were apprehended on pre- sumption of tliis crime, and on what was the chief evidence in such matters, ^' common bruit." They confessed the usual charges of renouncing their baptism, taking a new name from the devil, of having familiar intercourse with him, and of '^ sundrie malefices, and drawing on of others to the devil's service." So late as 1735, a man and his wife in this parish were laid under sentence of lesser excomn^unication, for consulting a fortune-teller at Paisley, to find out the person who had stolen their money. These crimes and customs have now disappeared. Would we could add, that there was an equal decrease of all other crimes. But though we have cer. 200 AYRSHIRE. tainly too many among us who have cast off all fear of Grod, and yield themselves up to the practice of wickedness in some of its most degrading forms, yet the people in general are sober and in- dustrious, and distinguished for a regard to religion and its ordi- nances. Not only is the form of godliness kept up, but its power appears to be felt, by not a few among them maintaining a coaver- sation becoming the gospel. The illegitimate births for the last three years do not average more than one yearly. There are, however, many children be- gotten previous to the marriage of the parties.* IV. — Industry. Agricultural and Rural Economy » — The parish contains about 5520 Scots acres, of which there are at an aTerage under crop, 1250 in cultivated grass lands and meadows, 2820 in gardens and plantations, • 150 in hill pasture, . 1800 Bent ofLandi Sfc. — The valued rent of the parish is L. 2840, 16s. lOd. Scotch. Its real rent is about L. 7800 Sterling. The average rent of land is L. 1, 10s. per acre. The duration of leases is from twelve to nineteen years. The lands are all enclosed ; the farms skilfully managed. The steadings are almost all slated, and are comfortable and commodious. Fisheries. — Salmon are taken both at Ardrossan and Saltcoats, in considerable numbers, in what is called the bag-net, and are mostly forwarded, per coach, to the Glasgow, Paisley, and Kilmar- nock markets, and sometimes to Liverpool. The white-fishing is carried on to a very trifling extent, but there are from fifteen to twenty boats regularly employed in the herring-fishing. The lochs in the West and North Highlands are their principal fishing grounds, though herrings are frequently caught in considerable numbers in Saltcoats bay. Some of our boats go to the cod and ling fishing on the coasts of Barra and other islands, and are ge- nerally well repaid for their toil and risk. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows: Oats, - 5565 quarters. Wheat, - - 671 do. Potatoes and turnips, 1897 tons. Cultivated hay, - 692 do. Meadow hay, - 190 do. Cheese, - 10,000 stones. Stock. — Number of horses and cattle in the parish for year 1886: horses, 131 ; milk cows, 675; cattle, 570; and sheep, 184. * There are two or three large families of unbaptised bastards in the parish. ARDROSSAN. 201 Agricultural Socieiy4 — A society, embracing nine contiguous parishes, formed with the view of giving encouragement to the raising of live-stock and other agricultural produce, holds its meet- ings in this parish. It is chiefly supported by the farmers. Lord Eglinton is patron, and several of the county ^ntlemen are mem- bers of it. Its annual meeting is held on the fourth Thursday of November, when premiums are awarded to successful competitors for stock, farm» and dairy produce. Premiums are also given for the best managed farms, and the most neatly kept courts and en- trances about the steadings. V. — Parochial Economt. In this parish there are two sea ports, Saltcoats and Ardrossan. Saltcoats. — Saltcoats stands partly in the parish of Stevenston, and partly in this parish. The harbour is in the Stevenston part of Saltcoats. The town contains about 4000 inhabitants, of whom nearly two-thirds belong to this parish. The population consists chiefly of sailors and weavers, shopkeepers, joiners, masons, black- smiths, &C. The weavers, who form a large proportion of the in- habitants, (there are upwards of 450 looms in the Ardrossan side of Saltcoats,) are chiefly employed by the manufacturers of Glas- gow and Paisley. The kind of work done is lappets, gauzes, shawls, trinunings, silks, &c. Many families are employed in sew- ing muslin. Ardrossan, — Ardrossan, which may be said to be the capital of the parish, owes its origin to its harbour, and is yet only in its in- fancy. It is built on a regular plan, and, when completed, will do honour to the taste and judgment of the projector, the late Hugh Earl of Eglinton. The streets are wide, straight, and cross at right angles. The houses are all of two storeys, well finished, neat and comfortable. There are several very excellent houses built for sea- bathing quarters, and which afford very genteel and commodious lodgings. There are a few good shops which supply the necessa- ries and conveniences of life, and sea-chandlery on a small scale. Ardrossan has hitherto been well frequented as a sea-bathing place.* Ship-building on a small scale, is carried on, by an active and en- terprising man, a Mr Henderson, who has hitherto found it to be no unprofitable speculation. The town of Ardrossan is a place of * The late Duke of Buccleuch, the Earl of Home, the Earl of Glasgow, the Lor J Justice- Clerk, the late Sir Alexander Muir Mackeniie, of DeWine, Lady Olivia Sparrow, Lord and Lady Mandeville, and several other families of distinction* have spent the summer at Ardrossan for the benefit of sea-bathing. 202 AYRSHIRE. 6uch rising importanee as to merit a somewhat lengthened and par- ticular account /nn. — The inn or hotel, one of the best in any country town in Scotland, affords every accommodation which can be required. It contains ten public rooms, and eighteen bed-rooms, with cold and warm baths. The offices, too, are excellent and extensive. Baths, — The baths of Ardrossan,*--a large and somewhat elegant building, — are well known, and deservedly in repute. They were projected by the late Earl, on the tontine principle, in the year 1807. For many years after his Lordship's death they were shut up, and the premises allowed to &11 into a state of decay. In the year 1833} they were brought to a public sale, and purchased by A. Mac&dzean, Esq., M. D., the present proprietor, who has at considerable expense put them again into a complete state of re- pair. The basins are all of marble, with dressing-rooms attach- ed to each. There is one fitted up expressly for the poor, which is open to them gratis. There may now be got almost at a moment's notice, hot, cold, shower, shock, and vapour baths. Attached to the baths, there is a large and commodious lodging, which is ge- nerally occupied during the bathing season. Crescent, — Around tlie fine sweeping bay which the sea forms between Ardrossan and Saltcoats, there is a plan of a crescent formed, which, when filled up, will be unequalled, both for beauty of situation, and magnificence of design. A number of very hand* some villas, uniform in line, but varied in style, have already been erected, and are generally occupied by their respective proprietors. The pavilion, a very handsome building, is the occasional residence of Lord Eglinton. Harbour. — The harbour of ArdroFsan is formed on a most mag- nificent design, and were it to be completed according to the ori- ginal plan, would scarcely be inferior to any in the kingdom. It was originally projected by Lord Eglinton, who was joined in carrying it into execution by several gentlemen of Ayrshire, and other places, taking shares in the undertaking. The expense of the work, however, far exceeding the sum subscribed by the share- holders, the whole subsequent expense devolved upon his Lordship, to the amount, it is said, of little less than L. 100,000. The work was carried on with great spirit by the Earl as long as he lived, but has been suspended since his death. The harbour, though unfinished, is capable of accommodating at present a great number of vessels of almost any size ; there being from 12 to ARDROSSAN. 203 20 feet of depth at high water. It is secure against almost all winds, — the roll of the sea in a storm is very inconsiderable ; and in rough weather it is frequently crowded with vessels, which flee thither for safety* Its situation is the most favourable on the whole frith, both for inland purposes and foreign intercourse* Vessels in the coal trade, both from Irvine and Saltcoats, often come to Ardros- san to complete their cargo, where they can be fully loaded at any state of the tide. The number of arrivals, including steamers, at this quay, for the year ending 1st of January last, is as follows : Number of vessels, ... 1963 Amount of tonnage, - - - 108,549 Number of hands employed, men and boys, 10,1 10 Life-ioat. — Belonging to the harbour there is an excellent life- boat, the gift of the late Earl, which has successfully been employ- ed several times within these few years, in rescuing seamen from the wrecks of their vessels on the Stevenston shore. Railway, — In forming the harbour of Ardrossan, Lord Eglin- ton entertained the firm belief, that, from its advantageous posi- tion, it would one day become the harbour of Glasgow, and there- by render unnecessary the circuitous navigation of the Clyde. To carry this design into execution, to unite the harbour and the town of Glasgow, a canal was projected, but was never finished further than from Glasgow to Johnstone, in Renfrewshire. In 1827, an act of Parliament was obtained to form a railway from Ardrossan to join the canal at Johnstone. The capital raised, however, was only sufficient to complete a single line of railway to Kilwinning, a distance of six miles inland, with a branch of about four miles in length into the Eglinton coal-fields. It was opened in 1832. For two years after- wards, there was comparatively little trade on it; but in 1834, the present Earl of Eglinton having opened up several additional coal pits, the shipping of coal at Ardrossan was begun, and has since been carried on with great spirit. It is believed that the gross tonnage carried along the railway during last year, (1836,) was not less than 60,000 tons. About the same time, (1834,) a carriage for the conveyance of passengers between Ardrossan and Irvine, and the intermediate towns on the line, was started ; but such was the uncertainty of its succeeding by running at regular hours, that it was kept to be hired for pleasure trips. The Railway Company, however, took the business into their own hands, and ran at fixed and regular hours ; since which time, the trade in that department has regidarly increased. The number of passengers for the three last years is as follows : 204 AYRSHIRE. For year ending aOtb September 1884, 700 1835, . 21,000 1886, - 29,061 The majority of the travellers by the railway are of the middle and lower classes, to meet whose coDveDience the fares are at the Tery lowest remunerating rate, being only one penny per mOe. In consequence of the great increase, both of goods and passen- gers, a single line is found to be insufficient to aSbrd the necessary accommodation. To remedy this the company have applied to Parliament for an act, to enable them to raise funds to lay a double line of railway, and to adopt locomotive power thereupon. There is now every probability that the great Glasgow and Ayr railway will go on ; an excellent junction between which and the Ardrossan railway will be effected, at a trifling expense, at Kilwinning. — and thus the communication between Ardrossan and Glasgow be com- pleted. Were this accomplished it could not fail to prove a great public benefit The projected line passes through a large tract of country rich in the most valuable minerals, and containing se- veral large and populous villages. The whole of the manu&ctur- ing and shipping towns in the west of Scotland would thereby be brought into immediate connection with Paisley and Glasgow, and perhaps ultimately, if the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway be car- ried through, with Edinburgh ; and thus a direct communication be opened up between the two seas. The advantages of this great line of railway are fully set forth in the Mining, Railway, and Steam Navigation Gazette of the 31st December last, from which the fol- lowing extract is made : ^' The position which this harbour (of Ardrossan) occupies is very favourable, being situated at the mouth of the Clyde, and within thirty miles by railway of Glasgow. Parties requiring to travel from Glasgow or Edinburgh, and the north of Ireland or Liverpool, when this railway is executed, will be able to accomplish the journey in at least eight hours and a-half from Edinburgh, and five hours from Glasgow, less time than what is required in sailing at present from Ardrossan to Belfast. In most instances a night passage will be avoided. The time required to pro- ceed at present from Glasgow to Belfast by water conveyance, is from fourteen to fifteen hours, while from Edinburgh at least twenty hours are required. The passage from Ardrossan to Belfast is from six to six and a-half hours, so that the whole time required to travel from Edinburgh and Glasgow to Belfast would not exceed seven and a- faalf hours from Glasgow, and nine and a-half from Edinburgh. Ar- drossan is one of the most fashionable watering-places on the west ARDROSSAN. 205 coast of Scotland, and would be rendered by a railway the nearest and most accessible." Means of Communication. — 1. Saltcoats is a post-town, to which Ardrossan is a penny-post. The mail, conveyed on horse- back from Kilmarnock, arrives every morning at half-past eight o'clock, and departs at four o'clock afternoon. There is a daily runner to and from Kilbride. Packets twice a week during winter, and every lawful day in summer, carry the letter-bag to and from Arran.* 2. There are coaches every lawful day to and firom Glas- gow, by Paisley and Beith, and to and from Kilmarnock by Irvine. In summer there are two more daily coaches, one from Glasgow and another from Kilmarnock. 3. Steam-boats every lawful day to and from Glasgow and Ayr, and the intermediate ports, and once a week to and from Stranraer. In summer there is a steamer which plies regularly betwixt Ardrossan and Arran, leaving Ar- drossan on the arrival of the morning coaches from Glasgow and Kilmarnock at about half-past ten o'clock, and returning in time for the starting of the same coaches at about half-past six o'clock in the evening. Thus a person may leave Glasgow or Kilmarnock in the morning, visit Arran, spend some hours amidst its wildest scenery, enjoy a view from the frith of the whole western coast, and sleep in his own house at night. The passengers last year to and from Arran during the summer months were nearly 7000 monthly.-f 4. Carriers twice a week to Glasgow, to Kilmarnock and Beith weekly, and to Irvine two daily. 5. The railway convey- ances have been noticed above. As soon as a railway has been opened up either to Glasgow or Kilmarnock, and locomotive power employ- ed thereon, it is in contemplation to start a steamer from Ardros- san to Belfast, for which there is a large sum already subscribed. Roads. — The turnpike road from Irvine to Greenock passes through the whole breadth of the parish, along the shore. There are also two tolerably well-kept roads, one from Ardrossan, and the other firom Saltcoats to Dairy. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is situated in the town of Saltcoats, and is convenient for the majority of the parishioners, though too distant for many. It was built in the year 1774, and is seated for about 840. There is something curious in the pe- regrinations and mischances of the churches of this parish. The * By some alterations taking place in the post-office department, we have at pre- sent two arrivals and two departures daily. f Owing, it is supposed, to the depresed state of commerce this summer, these coaches have not been running. 206 AYRSHIRE. church originally stood on the Castlehill of Ardrossan, where its foundations may still be traced, and where may be seen the old churchyard, in which sleeps many a generation now forgotten and unknown. This church was blown down by a violent storm of wind in the year 1691, when another was built about half a mile more inland, and in a more sheltered situation. Abont the year 1744 this church was taken down and removed to Saltcoats, where the present one now stands. In February 1779, Mr Dow, the then minister of the parish, reported to the presbytery, ^' that the church of Ardrossan had been so much shaken by the storm upon the 20th of last month, that the parishioners ever since had assembled in it with terror." It was eventually ordered to be taken down, and was rebuilt in 1774, with the slight alterations of fourteen feet only being taken off the length of it, and the removal of the front aisle. There is great need of the present church being enlarged ; or, what would still be more desirable, a new church built in Ardrossan, and that town, with a section of the landward part of the parish most convenient to it, erected into a separate parish. It may not perhaps be out of place here to give a list of the ministers of this parish, so far as is known. 1. The earliest reformed minister of the parish of whom any no- tice bas been found is named in a letter of Regent Murray's to the General Assembly of 1569. The Regent says, " Mairover at our coming, at Aberdeen, there came ane named Porterfield, minister, provydit of before to the viccarage of Ardrossane, and required also of us that he micht have the viccarage of Stein- sone, seeing both was ane matter meine aneuch to sustaine him, and because the kirks war neir, he micht discharge the cure of both." Two years prior to this it appears that Alexander Hen- derson was exhorter at Ardrossan, at 40 merks of salary. He was ^^ translatit" to Stewarton, and was succeeded by William Montgomery. 2. Alexander Campbell, rector of Ardrossan, is witness to a sasine, (penes Robert Cuniaghame of Auchinharvie) in 1593. 3. Alexander Dunlop was deposed in 1646, and suc- ceeded in the year following by, 4. Ralph Roger, who was trans- lated, and succeeded by, 5. John Bell, who was one of the indul- ged ministers. On 26th January 1671, the privy-council made an act confining all indulged ministers to their respective parishes. Wodrow states, that " Mr John Bell, minister at Ardrossan, being confined to his parish, his fiither living within a mile of him, fiiUs ARDROSSAN. 207 sick, and he must apply to the council to visit his dying father* They allow him, indeed, by their act, (22d June 1671,) but with a proviso, that he go to no other house without his parish in com- ing and going." For want of encourageoiient, both as to mainte- nance and meeting-house, Mr Bell demitted his chai^ in 1688. 6. Thomas Clerk was ordained in 1691, and died in 1737. 7. Ro- bert Dow was ordained in 1789, and died in 1787. 8b John Duncan was ordained in 1789, and died in 1819. 9. John Hendry was or- dained assistant and successor to Mr Duncan in 1810, and died in 1835 ; and, 10. The present incumbent was ordained assistant and successor to Mr Hendry in July 1830; so that it may be said the pa- rish has been vacant only three times since the Revolution of 1688i» Manse, Sfc — The manse and offices were built upwards of forty years ago. In 1835, the manse was considerably enlarged and thoroughly repaired. The glebe, including garden and site of manse and offices, consists of 5 acres 1 rood. The soil is good, and, from its neamess^to the town of Saltcoats, might be let at between L. 4 and L. 5 per acre. There are L. 20 Scots allow- ed in lieu of a grass glebe, according to an agreement entered into between the presbytery and the heritors, nearly a century ago, though it is on record there was abundance of church lands in the parish. The present stipend is 17 chalders, half meal and half barley, with L. 10 for communion elements.* Gaelic Church. — This church was built by subscription ; cost nearly L. 1000 ; and contains 720 legal sittings. It is also situated in the town of Saltcoats, where the majority of the Highland fa- milies are located. There is no minister appointed as yet A stipend of Lb 80 will be secured in the usual manner, and paid from the seat-rents and collections. Dissenters. — There is one dissenting house in the parish, be- longing to the United Secession. The minister has a house and garden. His stipend is paid from the seat-rents and collections. The parish church is always well attended. The seats are let * By » grant of the heritors in 1747» the minister has the privilege of gathering and leading of sea wrack, for improving the new glebe, from any part of the shore betwixt the Stanley Bum foot and the harbour of Saltcoats. From the following ex- tract from the presbytery rccordsy it appears that at one tipie he had some other sea privileges. May 18th 1647. ^< The edict of Mr Ralph Roger being called for, was returned forroallie and lawfullie indorseit:— -the presentation being producit and compairit with the prior presentation, it was fund to be deficient in ane clause anent the tea xficcarage, whilk it did not specific at all, but which the presbyterie was con- fident that the two noblemen Eglintone and Montgomerie would rectjfie— the presbyterie being hopfull, that the said two noblemen would mend any thing that was deficient in the presentation ; ordaines ^e admissione,'* &c. 208 AYRSHIRE. by public roup. A few free sitdngs are reserved for the poor. The number of communicants on the roll at present is 835 ; and the average number communicating at each dispensation of the Lord's supper is about 654^ Precise ecclesiastical state, as reported to the Church Commissioners, November 1836 : belonging to the Es- tablishment, 2170; belonging to Dissenters of all denominations, 1223; not known to belong to any stated place of worship, 441 ; total population, 3834. Meliffiaus Societies, — The Saltcoats Female Bible and Mission- ary Society has existed above twenty years, and still continues to exert itself with much zeal. It contributes to the funds of diffe- rent religious societies. Its annual income since 1813 averages L.3a Ardrossan and Stevengtan Parochial StM^y.— This society was established in the spring of 1833, and is supported wholly by the contributions of people belonging to the Established Church. Its object is to supply the poor with Bibles at a cheap rate, or gratis, and to educate the children of widows and tradesmen in reduced circumstances. The average yearly expenditure is L. 23, 6s. 8d« and the average number of children on its list at school is about 35 quarterly. The average yearly amount of extra collections for religious and charitable objects is between L. 40 and L. 50. Education. — There are nine schools in the parish. Six, includ- ing the parish school, in Saltcoats ; two in Ardrossan ; and one in the country. The parish school is too small, and the situation confined and unhealthy. The heritors, however, have agreed to build a new one, greatly enlarged, and on a more eligible site. There is also a large and commodious school-house now being built in the town of Ardrossan, at the cost of L. 335 ; the money has been raised by subscription. Government contributing L. 150* The parish schoolmaster's salary is 1| chalders. The average amount of fees about L. 25 ; and the amount of other emoluments about L. 15. The school fees are, 36. for reading; 3s. 9d. for reading and writing; 4s. 6d. for arithmetic ; 6s. for Greek and La- tin per quarter; 10s. 6d. for one course of book-keeping; and L. 1, Is. for navigation. There is much need for a good school- house with a small endowment for the country part of the parish. Literature, — There is a subscription library in the town of Salt- coats, consisting of a good many well selected works, to which sub- scribers only have access. The terms, however, are very mode- ARDROSSAN. 209 rate. There are also the Saltcoats Sabbath School Library ; the Ardrossan Sabbath School Library ; and the Parochial Juvenile Library ; into which books adapted to the young are principally introduced. There is a public reading-room in the town-house of Saltcoats. Charitable and other Institutions. — A savings bank was establish*- ed in Saltcoats about twenty years ago, which has certainly been productive of much good. The number of depositors is 148, viz. 62 males, 62 females, 11 small charitable societies, and 13 indi«- viduals beyond the bounds of Ardrossan and Stevenston. The sum at present deposited is L. 777, 17s. 5d., giving an average of above L. 5, 5s. to each depositor. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor on the roll is above 70, and they receive from 6d. to ds. weekly, according to their necessities. They are supported at an expense of nearly L. 170 a-year, obtained from the collections at the church door; mortcloth and proclamation money ; and a voluntary contribution by the heritors. The collections amount to about L. 80 a-year ; the mortcloth and proclamation money to about L. 20 ; and the sum further required is contributed by the heritors according to their valuation. There is, besides. Service's Bequest of L. 300 ; the interest of which is distributed by the trustees, (the minister, the oldest surgeon, and nearest resident justice of the peace,) among poor householders in the parish. There is little backwardness in implying for relief from the parish funds. They do not look upon this kind of charity as in any way degrading ; and children in good circumstances have been known to allow their parents to receive it.. Fairs. — There are three fairs held in this parish in the course of the year ; one in Saltcoats on the last Thursday of May, for cattle, pigs, shoes, cooper-dishes, &c. ; the other two in Ardrossan ; one of them in July, and the other on the fourth Thursday of No- vember, for cattle and settling of accounts. Innsj Alehouses^ 8fc. — There are 28 houses or shops in the pa- rish licensed to sell ardent spirits and ales ; and the fact cannot be denied that they have a most pernicious effect upon the morals of the people. * * About 7000 gaUons of spirits have been returned me, as entered in the excise books, for one jrear alone, the price of which to the consumer must be above L. SdOO, «« sum sufficient to keep all the poor in the parish in most comfortable circumstan- ces,— pay the ministers of religion and the teachers of youth handsomely, besides maiotaining an efficient police. Much of this quailtity may be used as sea-store ; still, however, the qusntity consumed ashore must be very great ; and vice and mi* AYR. O 210 AYRSHIRE. FueL — Coal, conveyed in carts or by the railway, from the neigh- bouring parishes of Stevenston and Kilwinning, is the only fuel used throughout the parish. Jtdy 1837. PARISH OF DALRY. PRESBYTERY OF IRVINE, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR, THE REV. THOMAS JOHNSTONE, MINISTER. • I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The ancient name of the parish appears to have been indiscriminately written Dalryj Dalray^ and Dalrye. The mo- dern name is Dairy. It is evidently derived from the Gaelic *' Dailj^' a plain or valley, and " Miyhj^* a king, signifying " King*8 plaiii^ or " Kin^s valley^^ — a considerable portion of the parish being in the valley of Grarnock. In ancient times, it is believed that not only the district of Carrick, but also a part of Cunning- hame, was comprehended in the province or lordship of Galloway. A part, however, was under the royal jurisdiction, and bore die designation of the King's District^ hence the name of Kin^a Val^ ley was derived. A field, on part of which the village is built, still bears the name of Croftangry^ doubtless a corruption of Crofianrighj or croft of the King. Extent — Boundaries. — The parish extends in length, from north to south, 10 miles, and varies from 3 to 8 miles in breadth from east to west, and contains 29 square miles. It is bounded on the east by the parish of Beith ; on the south and south-west, by the parishes of Kilwinning and Ardrossan ; on the west and north- west, by the parishes of West Kilbride and Largs ; and on the north and north-east, by the parish of Kilbirnie. llie figure of the parish is very irregular, being narrowest at the middle. A stripe of hilly ground juts out from its northern side, about 3 miles in length, by 1 to 2 in breadth. A portion of the parish at this sery, the necessary conseqaence of indulgence, are not wanting to attest the fearful extent of this most baneful and demoralizing habit. * The following Account was drawn up by Mr Thomas Hogg, Junior, TofU-Mill, Dairy. DALRY. 211 extremity, containing about 1500 acres, is nearly dissevered from the rest by the parish of Largs. Topographical Appearances, — The principal feature of the pa- rish is a beautiful and fertile valley, which stretches through its middle and breadth, and varies from half a mile to a mile in width. Its elevation does not exceed 90 feet above the sea. The river Garnock flows through the valley in a winding course, and di- vides the parish into two divisions. On the west, the ground rises gradually from the valley, till it terminates on a ridge of hills on the north-west boundary of the parish. These hills, com- mencing at the coast at Largs, run in a south-east direction, in two parallel ranges for several miles. The eastern, which com- prises the hilly stripe formerly mentioned, bends to the east, and joins the Kiibimie hills. Its highest elevation is about 1200 feet above the sea. The western range, on its entrance into this parish, bends to the south-west, and terminates at the extremity of the parish. Baidland Hill, its highest point, is 946 feet above the sea. A small ridge of hilly ground runs to the south of this, the highest eminence of which, Caerwinning Hill, is 634 feet in height. Cave, — On the estate of Blair, in the romantic and beautifully wooded glen of the Dusk, there is a natural cave in a precipitous bank of limestone. It is about 40 feet above the bed of the stream, and is covered by about 30 feet of rock and earth. It has two entrances. The western or main entrance is situated below a vast overhanging rock, 30 feet long by 27 in breadth, the brow of which is covered by the mountain-ash, hazel, and two large plane trees, which give it a picturesque appearance. Its interior resembles Gothic arched work. Part of the roof is supported by two massy columns. Its length is about 183 feet, and breadth from 5 to 12. Near the middle, it expands into a spacious chamber, 85 feet long by 12 broad, and 12 high. Its internal surface is covered by cal- careous incrustations, and numerous crevices branch off from its sides. In former times, popular belief peopled it with elves. It consequently acquired the name of Elf-House. In later days, during the tyrannical reign of Charles II., it afforded a hiding-place to the Covenanters of this parish from the violence of their infu- riated persecutors. Climate. — The prevailing winds are from the W. and S. W., from which point it blows for nearly three-fourths of the year. These winds are sometimes strong and violent During a few 212 . AYRSHIRE. weeks in spring, a cold withering easterly wind prevails, which, being often accompanied by frost, proves very detrimental to vegetation. From its proximity to the Atlantic, the climate is moist, — the rains are frequent, heavy, and long-continued^ sometimes lasting for se- veral weeks with little intermission, especially during the months of September and October. The most prevalent diseases as con- nected with the climate are consun^ption and rheumatism. The parish is, however, healthy, there being commonly about twenty persons alive above eighty years of age. Hydrography. — There are a considerable number of springs in the parish, but none of them are remarkable for the quantity of water they discharge. The most important is at Loans Bridge, a chalybeate spring. A strong mineral spring, near Maulside, has long been noted for its salutary effects in scorbutic disorders. The valley of the Gamock appears to have been, at a remote period, a lake stretching from Dairy to Johnstone,, in Renfrewshire, and of which the lochs of Kilbirnie and Castle Semple are the remains. In corroboration of this supposition, trees have been found im- bedded in the soil, which were apparently deposited by the ac- tion of water. The river Garnock, which has its source in the parish of Kilbirnie, on the confines of the county with Renfrew- shire, flows through this parish for seven miles, four of which are in a south-west direction. Below the manse it makes a sudden bend to the south, in which direction it flows for the remainder of its course to the sea, into which it falls at Irvine. It flows through a fertile plain, over a bed of gravel. Its declivity in this parisb does not average above eight feet per mile, and in some places its motion is hardly perceptible. Its average breadth is about twenty yards. In its course through this parish it receives a number of tributary streams, the chief of which are the Rye and Caaf. The former stream rises in the parish of Largs, and flows through an open moorish country, till about three miles above its junction with the Garnock. It then enters a deep romantic glen, the banks of which are beautifully wooded, in which it rushes impetuously for two miles. It then enters the plain of Gamock, and joins that river after a course of nine miles. The Caaf has its source on the boundaries of Kilbride and Largs. On its descending from the moorish country, a dike of basaltic rock crosses its course, through which it has scooped a narrow passage, in which it rushes with inconceivable velocity. Its banks are almost destitute of wood till near its junction with the Gamock, when it enters a deep DALRY. 213 and rocky dell, and rushes through among immense blocks of free- stone, and over a succession of rapids, till it is precipitated over a considerable fall, forming a fine cascade, about 24 feet in height by 20 in width. Two large rocks rise upon each side of the cas- cade, while the adjacent banks are clothed with wood. Geology and Mineralogy. — The strata on the east of the Gar- nock incline to the south, and partly to the east. Sandstone, lime- stone, and secondary trap greatly shattered, are the prevailing rocks. A field of limestone crosses the parish, south of the Dusk. North of this, a'dike of trap rock stretches from near Blair House to the boundaries'of Beith parish. Betwixt this and the Garnock is the coal formation ; the intervening strata are sandstone, limestone, shale, and indurated clay. The coal lies at a depth of 12 to 30 fathoms. The seam is about 5 feet in thickness, and dips to the south 1 foot in 7. Various " steps^* cross and derange the strata ; one of these raises the coal twelve fathoms, and an- other 8 fathoms. Various dikes of shale or " ^i7/," as it is provin- cially termed, also cross the strata. A dike of trap crosses the Barkip coal-field, in a direction from north-east to south-west. It is about 18 feet in thickness, and, for about the same distance on each side of the dike, the coal was completely charred. On the west of the Garnock two seams of coal are found. Dikes cross the strata chiefly south and north, and are formed of porphyry. Lime- stone is most abundant on this side of the parish. A field of lime- stone traverses its whole breadth, and is supposed to stretch from Ardrossan to Johnstone. The strata are less uniform than to the east of Garnock. The hills are composed of claystone porphyry, felspar porphyry, greenstone, wacke, and basalt. In the upper course of the Caaf, old red sandstone is abundant Jasper is found among the porphyry rocks, and ribbon jasper is very abun- dant Homstone is found in the channel of the Caaf, in a bed of about 10 inches thick, resting on a species of limestone. Agates have been found in the water of Rye. Carbonate of lime is found imbedded in the greenstone trap rocks of Rye. Ironstone is found in . various parts of the parish. Bands of ironstone are found in the roofs of the coal pits at Swinridgemuir.* Near the summit of Baidland Hill, at a height of 800 feet above the sea, a vein or dike of cannel coal is found betwixt two walls of carboniferous * A Taluable field of ironstone hat been discovered since the Account was sent to press, on the estate of Blair, containing several seams, varying from two feet to six inches in thickness. 214 AYRSHIRE. sandstone, the prevailing rock in the neighbourhod being porphyry. It runs in a direction from north-west to south-east, and is about 6 feet in depth and 4 to 5 in width at the top. It is very in- flammable, and emits a strong sulphureous smell on being burned* The greater part of the limestone quarries abound in petrifac- tions. At Auchenskeigh these are numerous. Sea sand and small shells similar to those found on the sea shore are found in the incumbent earth. In sinking a coal mine recently at Swin- ridgemuir, great quantities of small shells were discovered in the indurated clay. Vegetable petrifactions are numerous in the free- stone quarries there, and in the freestone rocks small cavities are found filled with moss earth. Trees, chiefly oak, birch, and hazel, are found in all the mosses, generally lying in a direction from south-west to north-east Se- veral years ago, some persons in digging peats on the Barkip Moss, discovered hairs adhering to the peats. On excavating the moss the body of a cow was laid bare, with a rope formed of " shewSj** or the refuse of dressed lint, twisted about the horns. On being exposed to the atmosphere, the hair melted into a greasy substance, and the carcase speedily dissolved. Soil. — On the east of the Garnock, the soil is chiefly a thin, cold, tenacious clay, retentive of moisture. There is a portion of loamy soil along the banks of the Garnock. There is also a con- siderable extent of moss mostly under cultivation. In the holm lands thje soil is a deep alluvial loam. In some places, ten feet deep of soil has been found. On the west of the Garnock, there is a considerable extent of adhesive clay soil. Along the base of the hills, the soil, being incumbent on limestone or trap, is generally light and dry. Although immense quantities of boulders have been removed from the soil within these twenty years, there are still great numbers unmolested, especially on the north side of the parish. Zoology. — The moor grounds abound with grouse, &c Snipes frequent the marshy places. Herons are almost daily to be seen in search of fish in the Garnock. The kingfisher is also occa- sionally observed. Trout are found in all the streams. The Dusk has long been famed for the abundance and excellence of its trouts. These fish are every year becoming less abundant Bands of per- sons in spring and summer, when the waters of Rye, Caaf, and other streams are low, sweep every pool with small meshed nets, and, not content with this, destroy the fish with quicklime, — a ne- DALRY. 2 Id &rious practice, which threatens to exterminate the whole fish in these waters. Salmon ascend the Garnock, but, owing to the shallowness of the water in summer, and the existence of a stake or bag-net fishery at the mouth of the river, few fish are to be found till near close-time. The salmon ascend to spawn in No- vember and December, and return in January and February. Great numbers are destroyed during the spawning season by poachers principally from Kilbirnie. From the heavy floods in winter, the spawning beds are greatly injured, and immense quantities of the spawn are destroyed by the carting away of gravel from the river during the spawning season. Botany* — From the extent and diversity of soils in the parish, it affords a wide field for botanical research. In the glens of Rye, Caaf, and Dusk, many uncommon and' rare plants are to be found, although the botany of the parish has not been sufficiently inves- tigated. The Hypericum JndroscBmum is found in the glen of Rye, along with the Campanula latifoliay and the Epilobium angusti" folium in abundance on the trap rocks, also the Viburnum Opulus or guelder-rose, and the Paris quadrifolia. The beautiful VeUa annua or cres&-rocket, grows in profusion along the banks of the Grarnock. A little above the junction of that river with the Caaf, the Senecio saracenicus is found. The beautiful blue Geranium pratense grows abundantly by the road sides. In addition to the common blue hyacinth, which adorns every wood and glen, a white variety is also to be met with. The elegant Narcissus Pseudo^ narcissus are found in the woody banks of the Dusk. A remark- ably beautiful species of the Rosa canina, or double dog-rose, grows plentifully on the road side from Dairy to Kilwinning by Blair. A beautiful species of double meadow ranunculus is found in the meadows above the Rye. Among other plants are the following : — Hypericum puhhrum^ H, humijusum^ Epilobium parviflorumj Bidens tripartita^ Rubus saxatilisy R, suberectus^ Lythrum salicaria^ Ajuga reptans^ Epipactis latifolia^ Trifolium medium^ Spircea salicifolia^ Circea lutetiana. Lychnis flos^Cuculi alba, Zanichellia palustrisj Barbarea vulgaris^ Geranium sylvati- cum, TussilagopetasiteSf Luzula maximoj Scirpus sylvaticusy Salix pentcmdra, Digitalis purpurea^ AgrimoniaEupaioriaj Nuphar lutea. White, red, and blue varieties oi\\iQ Poly gala vulgaris are abundant in the heathy grounds, as also a white variety of heath. Among the fungi are noticed, Boletus luteus, Amanita muscarioj and among the ferns Blechnum boreale. Among the cryptogamous plants 216 AYRSHIRE. may be enumerated Bryum turbinatutnj B. liffuhtum, B, hamum^ Jungermannia asplenoides^ J. bideutatOj Hookeria lucens* Plantations* — A great extent of land has been planted within these forty years, principally by Colonel Blair of Blair. Theirees chiefly planted are the oak, ash, beech, elm, plane, chestnut, horse-chestnut, willow, silver, and spruce firs, and larch. The greater part of the Blair plantations have been formed on steep rocky banks, which in their natural state were of little value. Although the trees in these plantations have generally thriven ad« mirably, those with a northern, show a decided superiority over those with a southern exposure. The latter are more liable to be affected by the droughts of summer, and are more apt to become stinted in their growth ; while the wood is less firm in its texture, and not so durable as that which has a northern exposure. Ex- tensive plantations have been formed on moss-land by J. Smith, Esq. of Swinridgemuir, and A. Mitchell Esq. of Maulside ; espe- cially the latter gentleman, who has, by judicious planting, grieat- ly improved as well as beautified a portion of the parish, hitherto very bleak. The trees are healthy and thriving on this soil, and by no means inferior to any plantation in the neighbourhood. Al- though much has been effected in planting within these forty years, much still remains to be done. This is particularly the case in regard to the north and north-west sides of the parish. lAirge Trees. — In the vicinity of Blair House, there is growing a fine Spanish chestnut tree, believed to be among the largest of the kind in Scotland. It rises with a beautiful stem for upwards of 20 feet. Its girth at the ground is 16 feet 6 inches. Three feet above the ground it is 13 feet 3 inches, and diminishes little to the first branch. It has a fine head of foliage ; although having formerly been nearly surrounded by other trees, its branches have not had full liberty to expand. It is growing on a sloping bank, having a north-west exposure. Its age is unknown. There are also some large plane-trees ; the laigest measures in circumference 18 feet 1 inch; the first branch is 11 feet in girth. In the poli- cies are many beautiful specimens of evergreens, probably not ex- celled in Ayrshire. Afany of the Portugal laurels exceed SO feet in height. There are also some remarkably beautiful rhododen- drons, one of which covers a space of ground nearly 60 feet in cir- cumference ; and when in full flower nothing can exceed its splendid appearance. DALRY. 217 IL — Civil History. Accounts of the ParWi, — The only history of the parish hitherto published is to be found in Robertson's Topographical Account of Cuninghame. Colonel Blair, of Blair, has plans of every farm on his property, and a map of the whole estate. Many other proprie- tors have plans of their property. A map of the parish was pub- lished in 1827 by Mr Robert Aitken, land-surveyor, Beith. Witchcraft. — This parish was the scene of one of those revolting acts which disgrace the annals of Scotland, of condemning per- sons to the flames for the imputed crimes of sorcery and witch- craft. This case, which is allowed to be the most extraordinary on record, occurred in 1576. Elizabeth or Bessie Dunlop, spouse of Andrew Jack in Linn,* was arraigned before the High Court of Justiciary, accused of sorcery, witchcraft, &c. Her own con- fession appears to have formed the principal evidence against her, and this was doubtless procured by torture. The substance of it was as follows : That one day when driving her cows to pas- ture, being greatly grieved by reason of affliction in her family, a person appeared to her who described himself as one Thome Reid, officer to the laird of Blair, who had died at Pinkie, and who in- formed her of what would take place in her family. Thome visit- ed her frequently after this, by whose aid she commenced the practice of a wise woman, curing diseases, and assisting in the re- covery of stolen goods. Her profession appears to have prospered until she drew the evil eye of the law upon her, when, having been apprehended and imprisoned in the jail of Irvine, and subsequent- ly tried at Edinbui^h, she was condemned to be ^' worriecC* at the stake, before being consumed by the flames. The intervention of Thome Reid, as a partner in guilt, did not avail the unfortunate woman, neither did the fact operate in her £sivour, that her skill was never directed to iniquitous or hurtful ends. It is rather sin- gular that no tradition exists of this tragical occurrence in the neighbourhood.f Emineni Characters. — Among the patriots who resisted the usurpation of Edward L, Sir Bryce Blair stands distinguished. This parish has the high honour of being*the birth place of this distinguished individual. Under pretence of holding a Justice- * Liun or Lynne, originally the property of an ancient family of the name of Lynne^ is believed to be the locality of the well known poem in Percie's Reliques of Ancient Poetry, •* The Heir of Lynne." t The trial of Bessie Dunlop is deUiled in " Pitcairn*s Criminal Trials," and Sit Walter Scctt has embodied it in his treatise on ** Demonology and Witchcraft.*' 218 AYRSHIRE. « aire, he was invited to Ayr, and there treacherously slain by the English in 1296, along with many other of the Ayrshire barons, among whom was the uncle of Sir William Wallace. Wallace did not fail amply to retaliate, by burning the English garrison at Ayr. Captain Thomas Crawford, the captor of Dumbarton Castle in the reign of the unfortunate Mary, resided in this parish, having married the daughter and heiress of Ker of Kersland. His eldest son succeeded to the estate of Kersland, whose grandson, Robert Ker of Kersland, distinguished himself during the reign of Charles II. Being a zealous Covenanter, and deeming the form of Episcopacy forced by a profligate monarch on a re- luctant nation, to be the prelude to Popery, he did not hesi- tate to join himself to that devoted band, who, in defence of their liberty and their faith, ^^ loved not their lives unto the death." Having been concerned in a meeting at ChitterJUt^ now Skutterflatj near Beith, along with a number of the western gentlemen, he was accused of rebellion, — and being tried in his absence, his life was forfeited, his estate confiscated, and himself compelled to fly into Holland. Subsequently returning, he was apprehended and im- prisoned for many years. The prison, however, took fire, and, mak- ing his escape, he again returned to HoHand, where he died in 1680. At the Revolution his estate was restored to his family. * It came into the possession of John Crawford of Fergushill, who married his daughter, and assumed the name of Ker. This indi- vidual, by his political tergiversations, acquired considerable cele- brity during the reigns of Queen Anne, and Greorge L His me- moirs of these transactions are well known. Sir Robert Cunningham, of Auchenharvie, was a native of this parish. Having studied medicine, he soon became eminent in his profession, and was appointed physician to Charles II. for Scot- land. He accompanied Charles into England, and was of great ser- vice at the battle of Worcester. Having been taken prisoner, he was committed to the Tower ; but in regard of his high talents, * His sword, inkhorn, and a small jar belonging to him are still preserved. Hie svord is a real Andrew Ferrara, and wants the sheath. Tlie inkhorn is a small cir- cular horn tube, about five inches in length, having a small bulb at one extremity for containing the ink. The slender part is hollow, and contains a receptacle for the pens. The jar is rather a curious article. These relics, at the seizure of the effects at Kers- land, were taken by a servant of the &mily, who bequeathed them to his nephew, the late Hugh Brown, piper, Dairy, a worthy who, had he lived in the days of Habbie Simpson, would have proved a formidable rival to the far-famed piper of Kilbarchan. Brown left them to Mr Andrew Crawford, Courthill, Dairy, in whose possessioD they now remain. 3 DALRY. 219 he was after a short imprisonment liberated by the Protector. After the restoration, he was reinstated in his office, and created a baronet of Nova Scotia« Chief Land'Otoners, — Colonel Blair of Blair is the largest pro- prietor, being possessed of nearly a third of the parish. The Earl of Glasgow ranks next in order. The following heritors have also considerable properties within the parish : John Smith, Esq. Swinridgemuir ; Ebenezer Smith, Esq. Pitcon; William Millar, Esq. of Monkcastle, Windyedge, &c. ; Miss Morris of Craig, Auldmuir; Lady Mary Montgomerie, Munoch: William Patrick, Esq. W. S. Barkip ; J. Crichton, Linn, &c. The total number of proprietors is 90. Parochial Registers, — The]earliest existing registers are of births and marriages, and commence in 1683, but have not been regu- larly kept till 1724; from which period they are complete till the present time. The records of the transactions of the kirk-session commence in 1693, and, excepting a blank from 1701 to 1717, have been most accurately kept to 1765. From that time to the incumbency of the present minister in 1821, it appears that the minutes of session were written on detached slips of paper, and, as might be expected from such a slovenly practice, they have all been lost Antiquities. — On the summit of Caerwinning hill are the re- mains of an ancient fortification. It appears to have been formed of three concentric circles or walls of stone, inclosing a space of two acres. The greater part of the materials of which it was com- posed have been removed to build fences, &c. The outer wall cannot now be easily traced, but, from what remains, it appears to have been from 10 to 12 feet in thickness. The entrance has. been on the western side. The vestiges of a fosse or ditch are still visible at the foot of the hill. It must have been a place of great strength, and commands a view of the surrounding country for many miles. The stones must have been brought from a considera- ble distance, being a species of tufiaceous trap, while the hill it- self is composed of felspar porphyry. It is believed that the Scot- tish army were encamped in this fortification previous to the bat- tle of Largs. The ruins of aji andient square fort formerly stood on the banks of the Rye, on the brink of a precipitous rock call- ed the Aitnach Craig. About forty years ago they were wholly removed. In the vicinity of the town is an ancient mound called the 220 AYRSHIRE. CourthilL It is of a conical form, and is covered with the finest verdure. These mounds appear to have been the places for dis- pensing justice. A stone, which tradition asserts to have support- ed the gallows, formerly stood a little east of the moat A few years ago an attempt was made to level this interesting monument of antiquity, in order to fill up some hollows in the field where it is situated, but the hill proving to have been formed of rubbish, the design was abandoned, not, however, till its appearance was greatly disfigured. Various tumuli have been discovered in this parish. In forming the road to Auchinmede a stone cofiin was discovered containing human bones. A cairn was removed on the lands of Camphill, on the formation of the Largs road, which con- tained human bones, probably of some warrior who fell at the bat- tle of Largs. On the lands of Linn, where the ruins of a Romish chapel lately stood, four urns were found containing burnt human bones. At Auchingree two similar urns were also discovered. About ten years ago, an urn was discovered near Blair House, containing burnt bones, and ashes apparently of coal. A part of the jawbone wasunconsumed, which, with the remains of the urn, is in the possession of the gardener at Blair. A sword was found a few years since in the vicinity of Dairy. The blade fell to pieces on being removed ; the handle is of brass iff two hollow pieces soldered together, and is ornamented with the figure of a dragon. It is now in the possession of Mr Andrew Crawford, Courthill, who has likewise one of those ancient spinning instruments, the ^* rock," which was in the possession of the fiunily of Hugh Brown, piper, since 1498, till within these few years, when its present owner acquired it - There is in the parish church an old oak seat, which was ori- ginally the &mily pew of the Boyds of Pitcon, now extinct It has the arms of the fimiily, with the initials R. B., and the date 1634, carved on the back, and is in excellent preservation. Modem Buildings. — An elegant mansion has been built at Swinridgemuir by Mr Smith, the stones being procured from the quarry on his own estate. — Mr Mitchell of Maulside has erected a commodious house on his property. — An excellent inn has been built in the village within the last two years, with a large hall at« tached. — A gas work was erected in 1833. The building mate- rials are chiefly procured from Swinridgemuir and Highfield quar- ries. DALRY» 221 III. — Population. The population in 17&8> according to Dr Webster's return, was 1498 1793, Statistical Account, - - 2000 1801, Parliamentary census, - - 2321 1811, .... . 2816 1821, .... . 3313 1831, males, 1833— females, 1906, - 3739 1836, December, males, 1907— fenmles, 1934, 3841 The small iDcrease of the population since 1831 may be ac- counted for partly by the ravages of cholera, and also from the small number of houses that have been built of late years. Many families have been obliged to leave the parish in consequence of their inability to procure houses* Number of persons residing in the town, ... 1934 in the villages of Linn and Drakemire, 126 in the country, - - . 1781 9941 Yearly average of births for the last seven years. Established Church, . 71 United Secession, - . 16 Original Burghers, about . 7 Others, ... 15 "l09 It is believed that this is nearly correct. Every child baptised in the Established Church must be registered previously. There are only two instances in the last seven years of persons not be- longing to the Established Church registering the births of their children. A register is kept by the United Secession congrega- tion, but, owing to the neglect of parents in registering their child- ren, its accuracy cannot be depended on. The average number of marriages is 32. It has been impossible to ascertain the num- ber of deaths, no register being kept Number of persons under 15 vears of age is 1382 between 15 and 30, 1168 30 and 50, 752 50 and 70, 413 70 and 80, 107 80 and upwards, 19 sm The number of families of independent fortune in the parish is 6 proprietors of land of L. 50 and upwards, 58 Electors in the parish. Old freeholders, of whom 5 are proprietors or sons of proprietors, 18 Proprietors of land, - - - . 40 of houses, - - - - 55 - Tenants of land, . ... - 53 Unmarried men upwards of 50 years of age— batchelors, - ^^ 1 81 166 88 widowers, • 48 222 AYRSHIRE. Unmuried women upwards of 45^ spinsten, . , . 4] widows, - - . 99 140 Number of families, ...... 760 The number of persons under fifteen years of age, divided by the families who have children, will give three children to each family. Number of inhabited bouses, 51 4 uninhabited or building, 5 Ltcmguage. — Within the last forty years the language has con- siderably improved. The English has greatly superseded the Scottish dialect of that period* Many words that were in common use at that time would now be utterly unintelligible to the majo- rity of the existing generation. Customs — Amusements. — The ancient custom of ^^ creeling" is still in existence in this parish. In former days, when penny- weddings were in vogue, it was customary for the parties who were at the wedding to assemble the following day, in order to " creeF* the bridegroom. Having procured a creel or wicker bas- ket, they tied it on the back of the young gudeman, and placed a long pole with a broom affixed to the top, over his left shoulder. Thus equipped he was forced to run a race, followed by theyoimg gudewife with a knife to cut the cords, and who, according to the alacritv with ^hich she endeavoured to unloose the creel, showed her satisfaction at the marriage. After which the parties return* ed to the house to consume the fragments of the preceding day's feast. About forty or fifty years ago, weddings having become less numerously attended than formerly, the custom underwent considerable alteration, and was deferred to new-year's-day. Ac- cordingly, on this morning the young men of the village assemble provided with a wicker hamper, or crockery crate, filled with stones, with which they visit the houses of all those who may have enter- ed the bands of matrimony during the preceding year, and compel each young gudeman to bear the ^^ creel" to his nearest neighbour who may have qualified himself for the honour. Resistance is ge- nerally useless, as a number of stout fellows soon compel the re- fractory person to submit, with the addition probably of one of their number in the " creel," as the reward of his obduracy. The ** creeling" is generally, however, conducted throughout with the greatest good humour ; yet, harmless as the custom is, individuals have been known, who, in order to avoid the ceremony, have re- gularly for fifteen years absented themselves from home for a fortnight at that season. DALRY. 223 The custom of the " baal-fire" or " Tanner is still observed on the last of July, St Margaret's Day. For some weeks previous, the boys perambulate the parish with large horns, soliciting contribu- tions for the purchase of coals for the bonfire. Formerly, it was customary to have a piper, and dance a reel round the tannel, but this has fallen into desuetude. These bonfires are believed to have originated in the baal-fires of the Scandinavians, and to have been adopted, along with other Pagan ceremonies, by the Romish clergy, and transferred to the anniversary of some tutelar saint, — no doubt with the view of reconciling the people to Christianity, by incor- porating with it the observances of their ancient superstition. The game of kyles* is a very popular amusement in this parish. Curling is a favourite game ; but, from the mildness of the winters for many years, an opportunity rarely occurs of enjoying it. Habits of the People^ Sfc. — The people are generally cleanly in their habits. Within the last fifteen years, a great change has taken place on the dress of the people. On Sabbaths they appear in a style little if any thing inferior to that of the inhabitants in thd same rank of life of Edinburgh or Glasgow. The ancient checked plaid still maintains its place in the ordinary dress of females. It is formed of red and blue or green checks, and worn over the head and shoulders, hanging down in front. With some few exceptions, the farmers and proprietors commonly take their principal meals along with their servants, who receive the same treatment as their own families, — and in no part of the country are iarm-servants more uniformly better treated than in this parish. The ordinary food of the country people is for break- fast oatmeal porridge, made with whey, bread, cheese and milk, — in winter, pork-bam is given instead of cheese. For dinner, broth, beef, potatoes, bread, cheese and milk, with variations of pork or * The kyles or keels are nine wooden pins turned out of ash, about a foot in length, and two inches in diameter at bottom, tapering towards the top. One of these is rather thicker and two inches longer than the rest, and is denominated the king. The kjles are placed upright, about nine inches distant from each other, in three lines, the king in the centre, forming a parallelogram, with the angle towards the player, who stands about thirty yards distant, aiid aims a wooden ball about nine inches diameter at the kyles. Whether he overturns them or not he is entitled to another throw from the place to which the ball has rolled. The great difliculty in playing the game, and in which the most skill is requisite, is to throw down the exact number which com- pletes the game ; for instance should forty be the game, and one party stood thirty- five, if the person whose turn it might be to play overturned six kyles, the party oould be ** debuished ;*' that is, they resume their former position in the game, while the ** debuisher** would play the stroke over again. The king counts no more should it be overturned along with the others than a common kyle ; but should it be struck down without overturning any other kyle, a rare achievement, it is deemed equivalent to proatrating them al]« 224 AYRSHIRE. fish. Porridge generally for supper, or potatoes pared, boiled, and mashed with butter. Scones made from a mixture of oats, pease, or beans, with wheat or barley, ground fine^ and denominated ^^ mashlutn!* are in general use, and form a wholesome and pala- table food. Although the greater part of the manufacturing population have for some years had to contend with low wages, and often a scanty supply of work, provisions have been low, and articles of clothing cheap, — and the majority of the members of families being engaged in some employment, with industry, temperate habits, and frugal management, the working classes have been enabled to enjoy a reap sonable share of the comforts of society. The great body of the people may be said to be contented in their circumstances. The people are in general of an intellectual character. The majority of them are moral in their habits, and strictly attentive to their reli- gious duties. Poaching. — A number of years ago, the parish was infested by a gang of notorious poachers, persons of idle, drunken, disorderly habits and profligate manners. These, however, have been broken up and dispersed, so that there is not above one or two individuals at present in the parish addicted to this demoralizing pursuit. There is still some salmon poaching,* although it is decreasing. Smuggling and pawnbroking are alike unknown in this parish. During the last three years there were 21 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. Males employed in agrioulture) .... d04 manufactures, . . . 300 retail trade and handicraft^ • . .146 Wh . . 5 L. 31,344 10 Although considerable pains have been taken to ascertain the amount of raw produce, by a personal survey of each farm, the result is given with much doubt. Manufactures. — Weaving is the principal manufacture in Dairy. The number of weavers is 500, of whom 61 are females, and 104 are apprentices. They are chiefly employed in silk and harness weaving, for the Paisley and Glasgow manufacturers. In general, the present rate of wages in Dairy would afford the weaver a fair remuneration for his labour, if he were constantly employed. The intelligence and enterprise of the weavers of Dairy prevented them from suffering, what, but for these qualities, they would have done on the depression occasioned to the cotton weaving by the DALRY. 233 introduction of the power*looni. For early directing their atten- tion to the higher descriptions of work, with which the power- looms cannot enter into competition, they thus saved their circum- stances from undergoing that degree of depression which their fel- low operatives endured in many other places. In the former Account it was mentioned, that a company had erected a mill for the spinning of cotton, to which a large addition was in progress of building. Since that time, it has fallen into the possession of one individual, who converted it into a woollen card- ing and spinning-mill. It is driven by a large water-wheel, to which a steam engine has lately been added. Last year it was entirely fitted up with new machinery, for the slobing and spinning of carpet yarn. It gives employment to nine men, four women, and thirty boys and girls. The men receive from 6s. to 12s. per week, the women 4s. to 6s., and the children from 2s. 6d. to 5s. per week. This employment is not unfavourable to health. A large number of the females in the parish are employed in sewing and embroidering for the Glasgow and Paisley markets, usually denominated Ayrshire needle-work. A good sewer may earn Id. each hour at ordinary white work. For a short pe- riod during summer, when embroidery is brisk, Is. 6d. to 2s. per day is occasionally earned at from fourteen to sixteen hours sitting. But this is gained at the probable sacrifice of health. At Auchingree a small manufactory is established for turning wooden plates, ladles, and other culinary utensils, — it is driven by a small steam engine of two horse power. Agricultural Association. — The Ardrossan Farmers' Society comprises this parish within its bounds, the annual cattle exhibit tion and ploughing-match being occasionally held here. The general Ayrshire Agricultural Association has determined to hold their exhibition in Cunninghame, at Dairy, alternately with Kil- marnock. V. — Parochial Economy. T&um. — Dairy, the only town in the parish, is distant five miles S. W. from Beith, sixteen from Paisley, seven N. W. from Irvine, and fourteen from Kilmarnock, where a weekly grain market is held. It is beautifully situated on a considerable eminence on the right bank of the Garnock, betwixt the confluences of Rye and Caaf with that river, and appears to considerable advantage when viewed from the S. E. It owes its origin to the removal of the church to its present site, about 1608. At the beginning of last century there 234 AYRSHIRE. were only six houses of two storeys in the village, the population not exceedinor 100. At the date of the last Statistical Account, the number of persons was 800 ; while at present the population is about 2000. The town consists of five streets, three of which, meeting nearly in its centre, form a small square. It contains a considerable number of well-built houses, and can boast of several excellent shops. There are three haberdashers, eight grocers, four bakers, and four inns, which afTord every accommodation to travellers, besides five public-houses. A gas company was formed, and gas works erected in 1834. Like those of the majority of places which possess no system of police, the streets are generally in a very miry condition. They have lately been lighted with gas, the ex- pense of which has been defrayed by subscription among the in- habitants. The chief employment of the population is weaving for the Glasgow and Paisley manufacturers. Means of Communication, — The parish enjoys ample means of communication. There is a daily "post, and a stage-coach from Saltcoats to Glasgow, which passes every morning, and returns in the evening. Two carriers travel twice a week to Paisley and Glas- gow, while intercourse is maintained almost daily with the sur- rounding towns and villages, by the bread-carts which leave Dai- ry. The turnpike roads extend 22 miles in length ; and the |)arish roads 26 J miles. There are five toll-bars in the pa- rish. The rates are moderate, — 2d. being charged for a cart, and Id. for a horse, with the exception of the bar on the Largs road, the charge at which trebles that of the other tolls. The roads in general are in good order, though many of them are steep and ill- directed. About eighty years ago, there was nothing deserving the name of a road in the parish, the intercourse being chiefly carried on on horseback, or on cars destitute of wheels. The roads were consequently mere horse-paths, and, from the boggy nature of the low grounds, the more hilly paths were preferred. As intercourse increased, these gradually underwent repair, until they assumed their present appearance. Wherever practicable, the acclivities have been cut, or new roads formed to avoid them. Bridges. — The Garnock is crossed by two stone bridges, one of two, and another of three arches. Both of these were origi- nally steep and narrow, but at the formation of the new road to Beith the steepness was remedied, although they still continue as narrow as ever. A new bridge has been erected over the Rye, and another over the Caaf ; both of them sin^ifle arched. From 4 DALRY. 235 the great number of streams, bridges are numerous, and are gene- rally in good condition, unless where the ledges have been wanton- ly thrown down ; a practice disgraceful, though not peculiar to this parish. Eccksiastical State. — There were originally two churches in the parish. It appears from inscriptions on stones built into the pre- sent church, that these were united, and a church erected in its present site about the commencement of the seventeenth century. The church is distant six miles from the northern, and three and a-half from the eastern and southern boundaries of the parish; and is as conveniently situated for the greater part of the population, as the figure of the parish will admit It is a plain edifice, and was erected in 1771, and received extensive internal repair in 1821, cast-iron pillars having been introduced to support the galleries and roof in place of the former wooden ones. It cannot, however, be pronounced in a sufficient condition, the walls being rent and forced outwards, while the roof has bent inwards. It affords ac- commodation for 870 persons, but, by placing pews along, and seats across the passages, 60 additional sittings have been obtained. Upwards of a third of the sittings belong to Colonel Blair of Blair, though, what is peculiar, none of his tenants have any right, to oc- cupy them, owing to the refusal of their predecessors to aid in cart- ing materials at their own expense for the building of the church. The seats are annually let by public roup to the highest bidder. At the erection of the church, the proprietors of Pitcon and Kers- land estates having agreed to give the materials of their aisles in the old church to aid in the erection of the new one, were allow- ed a proportionate number of sittings, amounting to about sixty each. The proprietors or occupiers of the soil have no right, however, to these sittings ; those of Kersland now belonging to the proprietor of the feudal superiorities, while the Pitcon sittings have fallen into the hands of heritors, who let them in behalf of the poor. The remainder of the sittings are occupied by the heritors and their tenants, with the exception of the table or communion seats. It was the original intention that the table-seats should be free, but the scarcity of accommodation has compelled the letting of these also, and the proceeds are applied to the use of the poor. There are now no seats properly set apart for the accommodation of the poor. The population having doubled since the erection of the present church, the accommodation which it affords has be- come utterly inadequate to meet the wants of the people. Every 236 AYRSHIRE. seat is let, and, owing to the unavoidable competition, the rent of many of them has been trebled within these few years ; and mfeny &milies unable to procute seats have been compelled either to ab- sent themselves from the public worship of God, or to take sittings in the dissenting chapels. Owing to the peculiar manner in which many 6f the sittings were acquired, and the mode of letting others, every attempt hitherto made to procure the enlargement of the present church, or the erection of a new one, has proved unsuc- cessful. We are far, however, from despairing, that the acknow- ledged deficiency in church accommodation, no less than the in- sufficient, if not dangerous, condition of the building itself, will, in due time, induce the heritors to erect another, not only with in- creased accommodation, and better adapted for the comfort of the parishioners, but also in a style more in unison with the wealth of the parish, and more in accordance with the taste of the age, than the present structure. The principal benefactions on record are, in 1810, L. 50 by Mr Service of Holms-of-Caaf ; in 1811, L. 40 by Mrs Hunt of Ash - grove; in 1812, L.252, 10s. by Mr John Aitken, farmer, Kirk- bank, parish of Johnstone, Dumfries-shire; in 1829, Mrs Ferguson of Irvine, daughter of Mr Service, bequeathed L. 50 to the poor, which was partly expended on oatmeal during a period of severe depression in trade. The manse was built in 1766, and has undergone extensive re- pairs at various periods, although it is sjtill a damp and indifferent building. The yearly value of the glebe, which extends to 8 im- perial acres, is L. 24. The stipend • for some years has averaged about L. 220, with L. 10 for communion elements. There are two dissenting chapels in the town ; the one attached to the United Secession, and the other to the Original Burghers. The minister of the former has L. 113, and the latter L. 80 of stipend. The income in both is derived from church collections and seat rents ; and in failure of these, from contributions levied on the congrega- tion. The United Secession congregation had a manse for their late pastor, which was sold at his death, with a view to clear off* part of the chapel debts. The number of families belonging to the Established Church is 500 ; the number of persons above twelve years of age, who attend public worship is 1722, and of communi- cants 1020. There have b;.*cn only two augir.entatioiis of stipend since the year 16)0. DALRY. T61 t Above 1 2 yearn of age attending Indivt. Public Worship. Sit, Let. Unlet. 540 889' 508 306 202 234 152 352 176 176 55 81 Place of worship at Kilbirnie, 77 31 Beitk, 16 1-2 Kilwinning, 2 2 Saltcoats, 3 1 Irvine. Belonging to the Fam. United Secession, 122 Original Burghers, 45 Reformed Presbyterians, 11- Relief, - 13 Original Seceders, - 6 Baptists, - Roman Catholics, No Episcopalians in the parish. Divine service is well attended in the parish church, it being in* conveniently over-crowded, except on some stormy days in winter, when the country people cannot attend. There are no societies for religious purposes in the parish. The average yearly collec- tion for the Sabbath Schools amounts to L. 7, 10s. The only other extraordinary collections of late years have been for the As- sembly's India Mission, L. 9, and for building a Gaelic chapel at Ardrossan, L. 8^ ds. £rft£c/7ft*a7i.— Besides the parochial, there are two private schools in the town ; and one in the country part of the parish. The usual branches of instruction taught : in addition to English, writ- ing and arithmetic, are book-keeping, geography, Latin, Greek, French, and mathematics. Those taught in the private schools are the same as in the parochial, with the exception of the three last branches. The schoolmaster's salary is L. 30, 13s., with L. 2, 2s. 9d. for deficiency of garden ground. He receives, besides, L. 5 for acting as clerk to the heritors, and as kirk-treasurer. Taking into account his perquisites as session* clerk, his salary will average L. 40 annually. This, together with the school fees, which will fully exceed L. 50 yearly, would give a fair remuneration to the teacher. The school, however, for a number of years, has been taught by an as- sistant, who receives the fees, while the principal enjoys the salary. The expense of education is, for English Is. per month ; if writing and arithmetic be included. Is. 2d. per month ; and when most of the other branches are taught, the expense is from Ids. to L. 1, 4s. per annum. It is believed that there are few of the young between six and fifteen years of age who cannot write, and none of the same age who caAnot read. There are probably not half a dozen above fifteen who cannot read ; but there are a considerable number above that age who cannot write. That the people are fully alive to the benefits of education is evident from the fact, that, at the date of the last Statistical Account, the number of children at school was 90, or one scholar to every twenty-two persons ; while at pre- • or these 22 at (en J at Beith. 238 AYRSHIRE. sent there are 390, or one in ten, independent of those at evening schools during the winter months, and at Sabbath schools. Gra* tifying as this increase is, it is still far short of what it ought to be. Many families, containing from five to eight children under fifteen years of age, keep only one child at school, while others have none at all. The children are sent to school at an earlier age than for- merly, but in the majority of cases the time during which they are allowed to remain is very limited. Owing to the depressed circum- stances of many of the manufacturing population, they are not only unable to defray the expense of instruction for their children during any length of time, but, from the same cause, are compelled to put them out to work at an early age, and consequently before their education can have advanced much beyond the mere preli- minary stages. Both the parochial and the private schools are far too confined for the health and comfort of the scholars. One of the private schools, originally a weaver's shop, 17 feet in length, by K)^ wide, is attended by no less than 100 children. The populous district of Muirhouse would itself require a school for the numerous chil- dren it contains. Libraries. — There are three public libraries in the parish : 1. The Dairy Library was established in 181 1. The terms are 2s. entry money, 6d. annually, and one penny per week for every two volumes borrowed. The number of members is about 120. It contains nearly 1000 volumes. It has been of great utility in im- proving the minds of the community in Dairy, which has long en- joyed a reputation for superior intelligence among the various vil- lages of Ayrshire. Of late years, however, works of fiction have acquired an undue preponderance in the library; the object of many of the managers being, it is feared, not so much the selec^ tion of books fitted to instruct, as of those which would be read with most avidity, and consequently would tend most to increase the funds of the library. 2. The Dairy Church Library was instituted in August 1834, in connection with the parochial Sabbath school. The scholars of this school are entitled to the privilege of receiving books gratis. It is, besides, open to all parishioners, and to those not parishioners who attend the parish church, on payment of Is. per annum. It contains at present about 600 volumes, all exclusively religious, besides smaller books for the younger scholars, about 300 of whom receive books. The average number of subscribers is 160. DALRY. 239 8. The conf^regation of the United Secession formed a library last year, the terms being Is. per annum to members and seat- holders, and 2s. to those not connected with the congregation. It contains about 170 volumes. It is earnestly hoped that these re- ligious libraries, under the guiding Providence of God, may operate a permanently beneficial efifect on the morals and religious feelings of the people. Friertdly Societies. — There are three friendly societies, having for their object the support of the members during sickness. I. The Old Friendly Society has existed since 1796; it has 93 members, and a stock of L. 142, 5s. 5d., the average expenditure for five years being L. 14. 2. The Permanent Stock Friendly Society was formed in 1820 ; its present stock is L. 205. The expenditure has averaged L. 14, 3s. annually for the last five years ; the members amount to 80. The payment to both of these societies is Is. 6d. quarterly, and the members receive 4s. per week if confined to bed, and 2s. 6d. when not confined, but unable to labour. 3b The most important is the Free Gardener's Friendly Society. It was instituted in May 1820, and contains 334 members, who pay is. 6d quarterly, and receive 6s. per week if bed-fast, and 4s. if not confined. The following is an abstract of the state of the funds, and the expenditure for the last ten years. Amount of Stock— May 1827, L. 427 12 7i Expenditure, L. .3 1 1828, 491 6 34 . 15 12 1829, 566 13 2 29 10 1830, 6()4 13 7 44 14 1831, 631 11 64 . 70 4 1832, 685 n 64 59 10 1833, 748 4 14 . 50 10 1834, 838 11 2 38 14 1835, 939 14 I4 41 10 1836, 1007 2 10 . 53 10 In 1831 the society was constituted agreeably to the act of Par- liament relating to friendly-societies — and the scale of ages recom- mended by the Highland Society adopted. These societies have been of great utility in promoting industrious habits, and indepen- dent principles among the community, their members being in a great measure insured against pauperism .when aflflicted with dis- ease or old age, and unable to labour. Since the formation of these two last societies, the poor funds expenditure has for some years been from L. 50 to L. 60 less than the expenditure previous to their institution, and has, on the whole, greatly decreased. A female friendly society was formed two years ago, but from the 240 AYRSHIIIE. nature of its constitution — persons of sixty years of age being ad- mitted for 3s. of entry money — its advantages, it is feared, cannot be permanent There is no saving's batik at present in the pa- rish ; but it is in contemplation to establish one of these valuable institutions. Poor Funds. — The average number, for seven years, of persons receiving aid from the parochial funds is 31, and of occasional poor 16. The regular poor receive from Is. 6d. to 14s. per month, — only one, a lunatic, is allowed the latter sum. The ave* rage payment to each person annually is L. 2, lis. 6d* The sum expended in occasional assistance is L. 13, 128. 3d. House rents, L. 19, 14s. 9id. Regular poor, L. 79, 16s. lO^d. Total, L. 113, 15s. lOd. Of the sum paid to the regular poor, about L. 12 is given to persons in Paisley, Kilmarnock, and Newcastle, who, having at some time been resident in this parish, applied for parochial aid before they had acquired a settlement in any othen* The funds derived from collections at the church doors average L. 50, lis. l^d. annually. Interest of money, L. 10, Qs. 8d. Rents of church seats, L. 11. Proclamations of banns, and mortcloth money,t L. 8, 2s. 8d. Total, L. 80, 3s. 4id. The deficiency is made up by a voluntary assessment on the heritors of l^d. to 2d. per pound of valued reut. The poor funds being managed with parsimonious economy, it may be conceived that the pittance which the poor receive is barely adequate to sustain life, but, by the be* nevolence of private individuals, their condition is rendered more comfortable. Colonel Blair of Blair usually placed at the dispo* sal of the session L. 10 yearly, which was expended on clothing, blankets, or coals, as appeared most necessary. In the case of aged persons, there is generally a great reluctance discovered to appl^ for parochial aid, many persons refraining from seeking re- lief till utterly destitute ; and in some cases it has bieen necessary for the session almost to compel thefli to accept of assistance. This disposition soon disappears after the parties have been a few weeks on the roll, the object then being to procure as large an allow- * A few years ago, a person, a native of Maybole, came to reside in this parish, in which he remained three years and a few weeks, when he again returned to his na- tive place. After he bad been nearly three years there, he applied to the session of Maybole for parochial aid. They refused his application, and referred him to the parish of Dairy, and the session here were obliged tb maintain him for a number of years* although, with the exception of the time he resided in this parish, he had always lived in his native place. f Some years ago, the heritors, on occasion of purchasing a new mortcloth, raised the dues on each interment to 10s. Tiie consequence has been, that, during the past year, the whole receipt was 25. 6d., although the dues were latterly lowered. DALRY. 241 aoce as possible, and much discontent is manifested should others receive a more liberal allowance than themselves. There is only one person in the parish who solicits public charity by means of begging, and who does not extend his calls beyond the town. Fairs. — There are six fairs held annually ; but none of them are of great importance. The principal fair is held on St Mar- garet's day, the last day of July. About forty years ago, this was one of the most extensive horse fairs in the west of Scotland; but so greatly has it degenerated, that a score of horse and two score of cattle would be reckoned a great fair. Some of the fairs have been established of late years by the publicans, ostensibly for the sale of cattle, lint, &c. but more truly for the disposal of their whisky, which is always a staple commodity at fairs. From the trifling amount of business transacted at these fairs, and the in- ducements they present to dissipation, characterized, too, as they often are, by quarrels and brawls, they ought to be abolished, as nuisances detrimental to the best interests of the community. Innsj ^c — There are four inns and five public-houses in the parish, of which five are in the country part Brides these, four of the grocers retail spirituous liquors. Their effect on the morals of the people is most pernicious. If we except the Largs road, there is no necessity for a single public-house in the country portion of the parish. It is doubtful whether a reduction of their number in the town would be of any benefit, as such a measure might only tend to increase the business of the remainder. One cause of the prevailing intemperance is to be found in the short term of apprenticeships. This seldom exceeds three or at most four years, and boys who are placed at trades at ten or twelve years of age become possessed of more money than discretion, by the time they are fifteen or sixteen ; and in order to sustain a cha- racter for manliness they resort to the public-houses, and there spend what ought to have gone to the support of their families. A temperance society was formed some years ago, and at its for- mation was joined by a large number of members, but these not being able to maintain its principles, have dwindled to a very few, and the society never having been countenanced by the more influ- ential portion of the community, has now only a nominal existence. PueL — Coals are the chief fuel consumed. Peats are used on- ly in the vicinity of the mosses, or in small quantities, by the inha- bitants of the towns to kindle their fires. Coals are sold at the AYR. g 242 AYRSHIRE. pits at ds. the cart load, and laid down in Dairy at f3s. 8d. and 4s. per cart, or 4s. 9d. per ton. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the publication of the former Statistical Account, the po- pulation has nearly doubled, and the rent of the parish has increas- ed from L.6d50 to L. 17,712. A great extent of moss waste land has been brought under cultivation. New roads have been formed, and the old ones greatly improved. Several hundred acres of land have been planted, and are now thriving plantations. Fur* row-draining has been most extensively practised. Improved ferm steadings have been erected, and are still increasing. Improved implements of husbandry have been introduced ; iron ploughs have entirely superseded those of wood ; and the old cumbrous stone cheese-presses have given place to the iron lever press, a portable and neatly constructed article. The Ardrossan canal was destined to have passed through this parish. But having been finished only from Glasgow to John- stone, an act of Parliament was obtained in 1825, to complete the communication from Johnstone to Ardrossan by a rail-road. It has only, however, been carried from Ardrossan to Kilwinning. As it would have passed, had it been completed, for six miles through Dairy, intersecting extensive fields of coal, limestone, and free- stone, it would have proved of essential benefit to the parish. A survey was lately taken of a rail-road from Glasgow to Ayr by Dai- ry, for which the requisite funds have been subscribed. It is pro- bable, therefore, that this parish will ere long enjoy the advantages of this mode of communication. June 1836. PARISH OF WEST KILBRIDE. PRESBYTERY OF IRVINE, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. THOMAS FINDLAY, MINISTER .* L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Kilbride, the ancient as well as present name of this parish, is obviously derived from St Bryde, a virgin of great cele- brity in the Scotch Kalendar, to whom the church was dedicated; and on whose anniversary or festival, on the 1st day of February, a fair, called Brydsday, has immemorially been held at the village or kirk-town. -{• Topographical Appearances and Botrndaries. — The parish of Kilbride, terminating the far projecting coast of Cuningham to the westward, is finely situated on the shores of the Frith of Clyde, where that noble estuary suddenly expands itself immediately be« low the two Cumbrays. Towards the sea, the general appearance is green and fertile, yet much diversified and broken by steep banks and eminences of considerable height ; whilst iAland, the view is closed by a range of dusky moorland hills. In length, it is about 6 miles ; its medium breadth may be about 2^, where broadest, perhaps 3^ miles, extending in all to about 8650 acres Scotch measure,! exclusive of the Island of Little Cumbray. This parish is bounded on the north by the parish of Largs ; on the east and southeast, by those of Dairy and Ardrossan respectively ; south and west, it is washed by the sea ; the general figure being trian^- * This Account has been drawn up by John Fullarton, Esq., an heritor in the pa- rish. f That this fair was originally kept on the first day of the month is confirmed by Pontes Topography of Cuningham, MS. temp. James VI. In latter times the day has been changed to the second Tuesday. Fairs on festival days invariably originat- ed with the clergy, who derived certain emoluments from them ; and they were usually celebrated within the church and its precincts. In this place, the travelling merchants or packmen, even within the present century, continued to exhibit their wares within the church-yard. The general position of parish church es, near the northern boundary of their indoaures, may have had some reference to the purpose of these fiurs. \ Scotch measure is invariably alluded to in this Account. 244 AYRSHIRE. gular. A chain of pretty high hills, gradually declining, however, to, and terminating with its southern limits, runs along its whole inland boundary, occupying, perhaps, fully one-fourth of its super- ficies. This is a continuation of the hilly western part of Ren- frewshire, and intervening parish of Largs. Kame hill, the high- est of the range, here rises nearly 1000 feet above the sea-mark, from which it almost immediately springs. From these again are deflected to the westward several eminences of considerable alti- titude, though cultivated pretty far up ; others stand quite detach- ed, as those of Law, Ardneill, Tarbert, and some lesser heights in the vicinity of the village. Of the arable lands towards the coast, about 2000 acres consist of alluvial formations, but little elevated above the level of the sea, varying friHn a few feet to about 40. Some fissures or openings occur in the rocks near Portincross, as likewise in the Island of Little Cumbray, as after- wards to be noticed. From its peninsula ted figure, this parish has the advantage of an increased line of coast, in all extending to perhaps upwards of seven miles. The shore is low and shelving, consisting of alternate sandy bays and reefs of sandstone, except for about a mile at the pro- montory of Portincross, which is steep and rocky. To the north, the sands of Southanan, lying in a deep and sheltered curvature, extend fully two miles in length, and from which the tide recedes for nearly a mile in the centre. This fine plain, consisting of a soil in some degree adhesive, largely intermixed with shells, it has been supposed, might be embanked and reclaimed for culti- vation ; but the expense of such an undertaking, if at all practi- cable, will probably ever preclude the attempt being made. These sands are frequented by immense flocks of wild fowl, chiefly of the duck tribe, and contain likewise large beds of cockles and mussels, besides other varieties of shell-fish, as the clam, &c. Next south- ward lies the promontory of Portincross, which is terminated by the celebrated precipice called Ardneil Bank, in some old writings ** Goldberrie head." • This majestic wall of rock, rising where highest to perhaps little less than 300 feet perpendicularly, ranges in a straight line along the water's edge, from which it is merely separated by a narrow slip of green land, and extends to about a mile in length. Along the bottom, the precipice is richly fringed * <* Goudberric headi are grate heigh rockea» making a headland» and running in the nudne oooeane."— Pout** Cuningham. 3 WEST RILBBIDE. 245 with natural coppice^ in which the oak, ash, hazel, and hawthorn, are thickly interwoven ; upwards, the glossy ivy is widely spread, whilst gray lichens intermixed with large patches of a bright gold-^ en-colour succeed^ lining the bold front to its outmost verge. Viewed from the plain below, the effect is highly impressive and sublime ; whilst to approach its terrific summit, the vivid descrip- tion by Shakspeare of the cliff of Dover is fiilly realized. The general mass of these stupendous rocks consists of dark-red sandstone, lying horizontally ; but for a considerable space where highest, the sandstone about midway up is surmounted by a beautiful brown por- phyry. This portion, dividing itself into three distinct and deeply separated cliffs of equal height and uniform appearance, has imme- morially obtained the poetical cognomen of the Three Sisters j other- wise three Jeans, perhaqps Nuns? and truly it were not difficult in their stately and solemn austerity to conceive a fanciful resemblance to the veiled sisterhood of superstitious observance. "^ On the south side of this promontory lies Ardneill bay, a beautiful sandy crescent, which affords an agreeable promenade and easy access for bathing to those in search of health or recreation : others similar, though of less extent, succeed in the same direction, and terminate the shore southward. Climate and Diseases. — The prevailing character of the climate in this quarter is moist and cloudy, with south and westerly winds. Generally, however, it is mild and salubrious, and the tempera- ture for the most part pretty equable. This state of the weather may constitute fully one-half of the season ; and under it the in-* habitants are^ perhaps, not less healthful than during the hot and arid periods, which not unfrequently occur in the summer and har- vest months, the transition being often to a considerable degree sudden and excessive. There does not appear to be any very marked peculiarity of disease here. Rheumatism occasionally ap- pears, though certainly not to any great extent; but peripneumony not unfrequently closes the scene with the aged. Fever has not often been marked by any peculiar severity ^diseases of the phthi- sical class are, perhaps, here, as in most parts of the country, great- * According to tradition, diamonds were contained in this part of the procipioc ; and whi«shy it is said, have been seen by fishermen on the sea at night shining like stars in the ftoe of the rock. Symson relates a similar tale of the Midi of Galloway, in his Account of that district. ** Such (says he) as sail by it in a dark night have ob- served a great light, which hath occasioned some to say, that there is a rock of dia- monds tl^re.*' The tradition of the diamond, indeed^ is common in many similar- inaccessible places in oth^r quarters. 246 AYRSHIRE. \y more to be feared. Epilepsy is by no means of frequent occur- rence, and small-pox for a long time past has been but little heard of, — parents happily having long since got over their ** dread of po- pular odium, or their own superstitious opinions." * Hydrography. — No medicinal waters, with the exception of slight chalybeate impregnations, have ever been discovered in this place. Neither are there any lakes or rivers properly so called. The more considerable streamlets are, Gourock, Kilbride, (an- ciently Millbum,) Southannan and Ffiirly bums, which all have their source within or near the eastern limits of the parish, and &11 into the Frith westward. Southannan is distinguished by its pic- turesque cascade and beautiful sylvan banks. Of the others, there is nothing very notable to remark, except that, like the latter, they have all in former times been employed in driving com*mills, as that of Kilbride (the only one) still continues to be used. Excel- lent and copious springs very much abound ; the largest and purest perhaps is that of Dornell-well, on the farm of South Kilruskin. Geology and Mineralogy. — The general basis here consists of coarse sandstone, declining about a foot in twenty to the south- east. The strata which come into view along the sea shore are chiefly brown or reddish ; higher up it becomes clouded with white, whilst the highest of all to the eastward are wholly of the latter colour, a good deal tinged and streaked with ochre of iron. Nu- merous extensive veins of whin rock, both of the basaltic and por- phyritic kinds, intersect it in all directions ; in some parts bulging out into considerable hills, which, of course, are all distinguished by their rounded figures, and beautiful verdure. The brown slate porphyry before alluded to forms the summits of several conside- rable hills, as those of Crosby and others, whilst Kame hill, of still greater altitude, is crowned with dark trap of perhaps 200 feet in thickness. Slight veins of lime appear at Ardneill point, on the shore and other places, but seemingly &r too limited and impure ever to be of any avaiL At the south end of Ardneill bank, is a very remarkable stratmn of puddingstone, the rolled fragments of which, being at places of considerable size, and the cementing me- dium bearing striking marks of fusion. This stratum lies nearly north and south, dipping pretty acutely westward. It rises near- * Only one distinct case of cholera occurred here during the alarming epidemic of 188*2, and it proved fatal. The individual was employed as a carrier to Glasgow, * where he appears to have caught the infection. In lftS5, small-pox reappeared to a considerable extent, and of which two or three persons of middle age have died* WEST KILBRIDE. 247 ly to the summit of the precipice, and in it' is a large opening or fissure, called the ^^ cove," long tenanted by the usual creations of popular fancy, — " fairies and the elfin train," Slight veins of dif- ferent kinds of spar occur, and in the trap formations rock crystals have been found ; but neither coal nor any metallic ore of any value have ever been met with. As stated in the former account, there is a quarry of excellent millstones, situated on Kame hill. These are formed from a stratum of breccia — white sandstone, mi- nutely intermixed with quartz, — which occurs near the. summit of the hill, immediately under the trap formation before alluded to. The number of millstones annually produced is about thirty. They are esteemed of excellent quality, are taken to a great distance at home, and some few are exported. Soil. — Generally, the soil of this parish may be divided into two classes : that which lies on the original formations of the more ele- vated parts, and secondly, that which covers the alluvial plains by the coast side, and in the valley bottoms. Of the first, which may comprehend nearly four-fifths of the whole, a considerable part even within the arable range consists of poor spongy moorish land, thin, cold, and ungenial, incumbent on a coarse tilly and imper- vious foundation. There are nevertheless in this division many portions of very kindly land, of the loamy and calcareous species, chiefly around the bases of the bills and rising grounds. Part of the alluvial division is of a deep dark mould of the finest quality, but still a very large proportion degenerates into a poor hungry corroding gravel, whilst a narrow stripe by the sea side consists of arid burning sand. A considerable extent of moss or peat bogs is interspersed in the moorish parts; and in the valley behind Ard- neill hills, near the coast, there is a fine field of this sort, extend- ing in all to perhaps 150 acres, which has recently been advanta- geously reclaimed and cultivated. Wherever the sandstone formation prevails, the hills are general- ly covered with heath, of which there are several varieties. On those hills, composed of whin rock, and on the dry gravelly soils by the coast side, furze greatly predominates, with a little broom ; whilst the arable fields in these quarters suffer much from what is termed here the runch — Raphanum raphanistrum. Zoology. — From the names of several places, such as Wildcat- road and Catcraigs, the native cat would seem at some time to have been a common inhabitant of this neighbourhood. But the * 248 ATRSHIRK. race is probably now exterminated. On tbe coast« the seal and otter are still pretty numerous ; and tbe badger yet maintains his footing, especially in his stronghold of Ardneill Bank. Hares and the more common species of game are numerous ; and rabbits are thinly sprinkled over many places ; but no quadruped which may strictly be reckoned uncommon possibly exists here. The fidcon or goshawk has immemorially found a suitable retreat for her eyrie in the cliffs of Ardneill Bank* The young can only be obtained by letting a person down over the rodis by means of ropes, which has sometimes been done. Fisheries, — With the exception of a few trout found in the streamlets, fishing here is confined to the sea. Herring are oc- casionally taken in considerable quantities, but are too uncertain to induce any regular pursuit of them. The other species of fish usually found are, cod, whiting, mackerel, lythe and saithe, but except tbe last none of them are often very plentiful. A few lobsters are caught in their season, which are sent to the Glasgow market, chiefly by the steam-boats which pass this way. * Woods and Plantations, — There is a general want of wood in this parish, in great part the consequence of long absenteeism among its proprietors ; and assuredly nothing could equally contri* bute to its improvement, as the liberal and judicious introduction of sylvan embellishments in it In particular, its absence in tbe vicinity of the sea is signally felt, where, of course, utility not less than just taste requires that jt should be supplied with no sparing hand. The many steep banks, ravines, and hill faces, as well as portions of thin and broken- land, which occur everywhere, are situations exceedingly fitting for such purposes. The extent of woods of all sorts does not probably exceed 150 acres, of which about one-third may be natural coppice ; the rest mixed planta- tions of fir and hardwood, mostly of no great age. Unfortunately, * Fishing, on the whole, has not for a4oog time been either extenstye or profit- able here. Its former importance has been very fully and properly alluded to in the first Account. There can be no doubt it was long a main dependence of the people here, and that its declension, as there surmised, may have affected the population. The many little « boat-ports,** all less or more the work of art, still to be observed, clearly indicate Uie fact. Herring appear to have been a common stipulation in the payment of kmd-rent. In the Commissary Records of Glasgow, a tenant in Fairly, at his decease, 1601, is indebted to ** the Lady Fairly, twa hundrith half-hundrith mail herring ;" another in Lar^ owes « the Lady Robertland sax thousand salt her- "ng» PJ^yce of the thousand vj li. to be payit ycirlie betwixt Yuill and Candlmes,** Ac. And in the minutes of the session the following notice, amongst many others illus- trative of this sul^ject, occurs :^June 18, 1718, the session re«>lve that the sacrament " behoved to be before the middle of July because of the herring fishers.** WEST KILBRIDE. 249 'the little which has been planted is generally too much in the back- ground) — a notion having prevailed that trees would not thrive ad- jacent to the sea, which no doubt is in some degree correct, though by no means greatly to be regarded, as some experiments have fully shewn. The hard-wood tribes seem best suited to maritime situations ; and of these the Scotch elm, plane, ash, beech, and oak appear to answer best here. But much depends on the na- ture of the subsoil. For the most part the fir species soon lan- guish on sour or tilly foundations. Every care should be had to preserve the westerly skirts close and compact ; not, however, by too thick planting, a common error. This will best be secured by introducing only the hardiest kinds, cautious thinning, and by allowing each plant to spread to its greatest dimensions, and to retain its branches as low down as possible. Nor should thorough draining and cultivation of the soil, where required, ever be omitted. Some fine old trees still grow at the ruins of Southanan or Un- derbank, though latterly a great deal have been cut down. These were chiefly ash, plane, and Scotch elm ; and part of a row of lime trees yet remain, of exceeding stately growth and beauty. The situation is on a narrow plain by the margin of the sea, under the cover of high and steep banks ; the soil a rich brown loam on sandstone. At the old house of Crosby, there is a plantation of beeches, of perhaps 150 years' growth ; but though of goodly height, the trees are deficient in girth, not having been properly thinned. These occupy a deep and narrow ravine in sandstone. There is likewise some old timber at Hunterston, and formerly there was more, which stands on an open sandy plain close by the sea beach. The trees here are chiefly ash, and said to be of ex- cellent quality. In former times, most of the farm-houses, or totcnsy as they were called, were encircled by venerable ash and plane trees. Some of these still remain to enrich the locality, and mark the site of these immemorial homesteads of the original possessors of the soil ; but very many of the finest have fallen under the reck- less hand of cupidity or Grothic barbarity. Botany. — The following list of the rarer plants found in this pa- rish has been communicated by the Rev. David Landsborough, minister of Stevenston, a gentleman well known for his attainments in this el^ant branch of science. Allium vineale» Crow garlic. Trilblium arvense, HareVfoot trefoil. Triglochin maritimum, Sea arrow-grass Scutellaria galericulata, Com. skull-cap. ■■■- — palustre. Marsh arrow-grass. Melica uniflora, Wood melic grass. Ervum hirsutum, Hairy tare. Vicia sylvattca, Wood vetch. 250 AYRSHIRE. Geranium sanguincum. Bloody crane's Raphanus maritimus, Sea radish. bill. Cotyledon umbilicus, Wall penny-wort. Lavatera arborea, Sea side tree mallow. Triodia decumbens. Decumbent heath Anagallis tenella, Bog pimperneL grass. Lithospermum maritimum, Sea side Sium latifolium, Broad-leaved water pars- gromwelL nip. CEnanthe pimpinelloideSy Parsley water Carum verticillatum, Whorled caraway. dropwort. Circasalutetiana, Enchanter's nightshade. Pirapinella sazifraga, Burnet saxifrage. Scolopendrium officinale. Common hart's Anthriscus vulgaris, Com. anthriscus. tongue. Glauciumluteum, Yellow horned poppy. Hypnum molluscum, Plumy-crested Cakile maritima, Sea rocket. feather-moss. AnthylUs /ulneraria, Lady's finger. Sticta pulmonaria, Lungwort sticta. Hypericum pulchrum, Small upright St Hookeria lucens, Shining Hookeria. John's wort. Campanula latifolia. Broad-leaved bell- ~ androssmum, Tutsan do. flower. — — huroifusum, Trailing do. Droiera rotundifolia, Round-leaved sun- calicinum, Large- flowered do dew. Plnguicula Lusitanica, Pale butter-wort. Coronopus Ruellii, Swine's cress. Arundo phragmites, Common reed. Eryngium maritimum, Sea holly. Ligusticum Scoticum, Lovage. Samolus valerandi, Water pimpernel. Melica caerulea, Purple melic grass. Eupatoriumcanabinum, Hemp-agrimony Solidago virgaurca, Golden red. Daucus carota, Wild carrot. Schcenus nigricans, Black bog rush. IL — Clvil History. Kilbride appears originally to have been a dependency of the monastery of Kilwinning, and the cure to have been served by a vicar, — the monks drawing the rectorial tithes. Since the dissolu- tion of the Catholic establishment, its boundaries have been alter- ed, and probably enlarged. About the year 1650, the extensive properties of Southanan and Crosby were disjoined from Largs, and annexed qtioad omnia to Kilbride ; on the other hand, thB lands of Monfode, Knockewart, and Boydston, were separated from it, and adjoined to the parish of Ardrossan on the south, the two first quoad omniay the last only quoad sacra* This neighbourhood, with some probability, is said to have been the scene of conflicts consequent on the Norwegian descent at Largs in 1263 ; and doubtless it w&s exposed to much previous strife with these fierce northern marauders. At the hill of Grold- berry, before alluded to, tradition asserts, that a detachment of the army of Haco was attacked and routed by a body of Scotch- men, led by Sir Robert Boyd, who is said to have been the pro- genitor of the family of Kilmarnock, and for these services to have received a grant of some lands in Cuningham« From the time of this afiair, which seems finally to have terminated these long pro- tracted incursions of this restless people, the western shores ever after enjoyed perhaps a greater degree of quiet than that of almost any other district of the country. They continued, howeverj to WEST KILBRIDE. 251 contribute to the common defence of the kingdom. The family of Kilmarnock, which from about this era rose to be among the most considerable of the barons of the west, was mainly advanced by the services of Sir Robert Boyd in the cause of Bruce : Besides ex- tensive grants of land elsewhere, he obtained from that monarch the estates of Kilbride and Ardneill, in this parish, and which were long held by his descendants. - In the unhappy carnage of Pinkie in 1547, the west country appears to have had but too considerable a share. From Kil- bride, the lairds of Hunterston and Monfode fell in the fray. Again at the field of Langside, from their wide dependence on the Lord Boyd, great numbers from this quarter were pre- sent on the side of the Queen. Robert Boyd of Portincross, and his eldest son, Archibald, with a great many others of their name, afterwards obtained remissions for their appearance on that ocfeasion. Nothing, however, appears to shew that this parish can claim any distinguished place amongst those ^^ patriotic bands," who so greatly exalted the name of Scotchmen, by the noble stand they made in the cause of civil and religious liberty during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, though it is hardly to be doubted, many individuals, however lowly in place, must have shared in that fervour of spirit which shone so conspicuously throughout the west during that memorable period of the national history. As before noticed, the family of Kilmarnock had much influence here ; and the part which that family ever acted in pub- lic affairs, if we except the services of their founder in the cause of Bruce, was not certainly such as in any way to entitle them to the respect or sympathy of their countrymen. The whole of the church lands here, which were considerable, were unequally shar- ed betwixt Alexander, the ^^ good" Earl of Glencaim, and Lord Boyd. * Of the unfortunate smuggling traffic which ensued on the union of this country with England, the inhabitants of this parish were unhappily long and deeply participant. Many traces of this de- moralizing pursuit may still be found in the records of its session, * The following ohancteristic anecdote, relative to this parish, is preserved in Crawfurd's Genealogical Collections in the Advocates' Library. ** Mr George Craw- furd, a son of Thirdport, was minister at Kilbryde. He was deposed in the strick times of the Covenant for wardlv raindedness and selling a horse on the Sabbath day, as old Portincross ( Robert Boyd of Portincross, * who dyed very aged, near 100 years of age, in \721.*-^Ibidem.) told me, who knew him minister at Kilbryd^ and was a witness against him at the presbytery.** 252 AYRSHIRE. and of which a few ^)eciineDs, for the gralificatioo of the curious, are here subjoined.* Eminent Men. — As a talented scholar, the most eminent person connected with this parish was Dr Robert Simson of Glasgow, the well-known translator of Euclid. Dr Simson's progenitors had been long resident here, and at a pretty early period acquired some lands near the village, to which they gave the name of Kirk- tonhall, and to which in succession the Doctor himself succeeded. In the garden of this residence of his predecessor^ there still re- mains a curious sun-dial, understood to have been designed by this eminent mathematician ; it is inscribed with his father's and mo- ther's initials, and the date 1717. Yet it would seem doubtful after all if Dr Simson was born at this place. His father, John Simson of Kirktonhall, was bred a merchant in Glasgow, and en* tered as a member of the merchant's house there in 1683 ; and in about two years afterwards, married Agnes, daughter of the Rev. Patrick Simson, minister of Renfrew. Of this union, which produced the remarkable issue of seventeen sons without any daughters, the Doctor was the eldest, being bom October 14, 1687. He was educated at the university of Glasgow, under the care of his maternal uncle, the Rev. John Simson, Professor of Divinity there.f In 1711, he was appointed to the mathematical chair of his alma mater, it being tendered to him without any solicitation on his part ; and in this situation, he continued for the long space of fifty-eight years, ^^ with increasing reputation to himself, and great advantage to the university/' He published many woiks on his favourite science which he professed, and in these has left ^^ a monument of great genius and intellectual ability." Having nearly completed his eighty*first year, this distinguish- * Feb. 3, 1720.— This day, the session was informed that some person was seen lately, carrying off brandy upon Sabbath morning, &c. <• Oct. 2S; 1721.— This day, compered William King, and was examined about bak. ing bread in his house upon the Lord's day. He did not deny but that it might be done, but neither he nor his wife knew anything of it. He told that there was a great confusion about his house that day, with souldiers and euitom-houae offioeia, who came up to take brandy on that day, &c. " June 17, 1772.— This day the session was informed of Robert Mrn^e5 built close by the ruins of the ancient mansion. 2. Crosby, adjoining Southanan, comprehends a pretty exten- sive portion of hill land, lying along the east side of the parish, and abounds in moor game. This property belongs to John Crawfurd of Auchnames, whose ancestor acquired it from his connections, the original family, of the same name and designation, about the beginning of last century. There is a small mansion- house on it, erected* near the end of the seventeenth century, which was long ruinous, but is now being restored in good taste by the proprietor. Crosby was an ancient inheritance of the Crawfurds of Lowdon, sheriifs of Ayr, and there seems great probability that it was at the original " Tower of Crosby" that the hero of Scot- land, Wallace, found refuge with his uncle. Sir Ronald Craw- furd, during his outlawry by the English authorities.* This inci- dent, it is true, has often been assigned to Crosby in Kyle, but, there seems great reason to think, erroneously. Crosby in Cunning- ham is uniformly contradistinguished from the other as ^^ Crosby- Crawfurd" in all early writings; and the intelligent Chalmers, speaking of Crosby in Kyle, distinctly states it to have ^^ belong- ed to the family of FuUarton in the twelfth century, and probably from an earlier age." 3. Kilbride, which, as before-observed, along with Ardneill, was conferred by the renowned Bruce on the ancestor of the Earls of Kilmarnock.. There are still remaining here the walls of a very stately tower, called Lawcastle, quite entire. It is beautifully si- tuated on a step, an eminence overlooking the village, and com- mands delightAil prospects of the islands and frith to the west- ward. In 1670, William, third Earl of ICilmarnock, alienated this estate, along with the lands of Drummilling and Boydston to a Major Hugh Bontine, who, it is said, acquired his fortune in the service of the Commonwealth. From his heirs, the Baillies of Monkton, the whole was judicially sold in 1759, with the ex- * Pont thus alludes to the Tower of Crosby : — *^ Crosbj toure is the habitutlone of William Craufurd of Auchnaims, by divers thought to be cbeiffe of the Crau* furds. He holds the same of the Earls of Glencairne. This surname is very an- cient, and did memorable service under King Alexander the 3d, at the batell of Lar- gis, by quhome their good service wes recompensed with divers great lands and po^ ^essiones. According to the old common ritbme, They had Draffen, Mcthweine, and rich crth St^vinstone ; Cameltoune, Knockawart, and fiur I«owdoune.** WEST KILBRIDE. 255 ception of some small portions previously alienated in a variety of lots, as it still remains.* 5. Carlung and Drummilling both church lands. Carlung, which is a ten pund land, and very valuable, belonged to the col* legiate kirk of Kilmawrs, and at the Reformation fell to the share of Alexander Earl of Glencairn ; the other, of far inferior extent and value, which probably belonged to the monastery of Kilwin* ning, was given to Lord Boyd, a man of very opposite sentiments to those of the '^ good'' Earl ; but something conciliatory, no doubt, then, as now, was necessary to be observed in matters of state policy. Both properties lie in the immediate vicinity of the village, and have long since been alienated and parcelled out Carlung, which was for several generations the seat of a cadet of the family of Glen- cairn, is now separated into four distinct properties, Carlung, Wood- side, Kirktonhall, and Overtoun. 6. Ardneill or Portincross. From the ancient fortalice of Portincross, the chief messuage of this estate, the proprietors ap- pear invariably to have been designed. About the time of Robert IL Ardneill became the patrimony of a third son of the Boyd fa- mily, and it continued with his descendants, the Boyds of Portin- cross, to the year 1737, when it was alienated to the ancestor of the present proprietor, John Crawfurd of Auchnames, who has a neat cottage residence close by the old castle. The castle of Por- tincross, the walls of which are yet pretty entire, though long ruin- ous, is perhaps the most ancient structure of the kind now remain- ing in this place. It stands on a ledge of rock projecting into the sea under the bold promontory to which it gives name, a singular- ly wild and romantic situation. Several royal charters of the two first Stewart Kings bear to have received the sign-manual at ^^ Ar- nele,'' which unquestionably refers to this fortlet, and which has led to a notion, that Portincross had been at that period a royal residence of the Kings of Scotland. But there seems no evidence whatever to conclude it ever was such in the proper sense of the * One of the original purchasers, a Mr Alexander Fairy, who had acquired a di- vision of rather indifferent land, which he named Springside, soon after began a re- gular system of improvement on it, enclosing, draining, and plantings which he very successfully completed ; and was one of the earliest improvers here. Mr Boyd of Car- lung, who had spent his early life at New York, in North America, was contemporary with Mr Fairy, and equally energetic in enclosing and improving his lands, which on his succession he found in the most barbarous condition. There had been consi- derably earlier attempts of this nature on the estates of Crosby and Ardneill ; but these had not been followed up, and by this time were wholly neglected, the lands having been turned into grazings. Springside is now the property of Mr John Blair Hynd- mau, whose style of improvements is hardly equal to that of hii spirited predecessor. 256 AYRSHIRE. term. The probability is, that these sovereigns, in passing to and from Dundonald in Kyle, and Rothesay in Bute, had been in use to cross the channel at this point, and may occasionally, as cir- cumstances or inclinations suggested, have prolonged their stay a little at this convenient station. Contemplating the narrow walls of this sea-beat tower, it is certainly difficult to conceive it should ever have afforded accommodation to the prestige* of a royal court ; yet when we reflect on the circumscribed nature of even Dundon- ald itself, the fsivourite residence of these same sovereigns, the contrast by no means appears so very extraordinary. * 7. The last of these *^ baronies" is the estate of Hunterston, the property of Mrs Hunter of Hunterston ; and* which is the only portion of the parish which has remained unalienated from ancient times. Crawfurd, the author of the Peerage, states, that this family have had '^ at least a part of the estate they still pos- sess as fair back as the reign of King Alexander IL'' However this may be, it is clear that this family are very ancient possessors here ; for from the records of the Great Seal it appears, that Wil- liam Hunter of Hunterston obtained a confirmation of the lands of Campbelton, part of Ardneill adjoining, so early as the time of Robert IL, and which lands still remain in the family* The (mti- ginal mansion-house of Hunterston, part of which consists of a square tower, evidently of ancient construction, though of very li- mited dimensions, is still kept habitable, being occupied as a farm- house ; a handsome new mansion having been erected by the pro« . prietor about thirty years ago, a little way nearer the sea* The old fordet occupied originally a narrow tongue of land jutting into a deep morass, which of course constituted its security from ex- ternal aggression. But whilst modem improvements have turned the bogs into fruitful fields, the little ^^ lonely tower" has thus been reft of its characteristic defence. Many little patches have from time to time been added to this olden dwelling, and which, being closely environed by aged trees, has altogether a very antique and picturesque appearance. The whole of these properties, with the exception of Kilbride and Carlung, which have been parcelled out as before noticed, are now, it is iinderstood, under the fetters of strict entails, all of com- paratively recent date. For notwithstanding the pernicious effects * In an inventory of the effects within the fortaliee of Portincroes* taken in 1021« h appears inter alia to have contained ** ten fedder beddis,'* with their ftimlshings, whiah is 80 far illustrative of the manners of those times ; for it is clear two or three of these must have belonged to each chamber. WEST KILBRIDE. 257 of such restrictions, as well to the possessors themselves, as to the public interest, the owners of property still cling with an undimi- nished fondness to this no less injurious than absurd and prepos- terous practice in the disposal of their lands. Difficulties of no ordinary kind undoubtedly have ever stood in the way of undoing the past ; but that government could not be said to discharge its proper and bounden duty, which, when such erroneous policy came to manifest itself through its consequences, did not instantly put a stop to its further baneful operations. So long as this barbarous remnant of the spirit of feudalism is suffered to exist, it is obvious, all future ameliorations of the soil must be circumscribed to an incalculable extent Parochial RegUters. — ^The registers of this parish commence pretty early, are very complete, and in good preservation ; cer- tainly much more so than is usually the case with such documents. The register of births begins November 6, 1691, and is regularly continued to the present time. It is to be noted, however, of this record, that at no time has the law been uniformly complied with, many births never having been entered at all; which of course very much lessens its value to the community. The registry of mar^ riages is continued from 1693, and is preserved entire. Minutes of the kirk-session commence February 15, 1716, and now occupy nearly two thick quarto volumes. Money accounts in reference to the poor are preserved from 1730 to the present time ; and minutes of the meetings of heritors separately since 1795. Antiquities^ — Some traces of remote times still exist here. Along the steep banks fiicing the sea-beach are placed a chain of little round eminences called ^^ Castle hills," supposed to be the remains of a very primitive class of fortlets. They stand at un- equal distances, apparently as suitableness of fituation offered — some scarcely half a mile, others a mile and a half apart. In par- ticular, they occur at Boydston, Glenhead, Seamill, and Ardneill. They are all constructed in the same manner, and are of very li- mited dimensions. A portion of the bank is detached on all sides and rounded conically ; the enclosure on the summit, of about 30 or 40 feet in diameter, is surrounded by a rampart from 6 to S feet in thickness, faced on both sides with large undressed stones neatly laid, the interstice being filled up with small stones intermixed with earth. That at Ardneill stands on a finely isolated eminence called Auldhill, and in front of the enclosure or praeto* rium, there is an esplanade of 40 or 60 paces in length, very ex- AYR. R 258 AYRSHIRE. actly formed a)id levelled Something similar exists at Seamill, but the rest are conSned to the circular rampart alone. Conjec- ture assigns these structures to the era of the Danish incursions, which seems not improbable ; but they may belong to a still higher antiquity.* Tumuli have likewise been accidentally explored here, in which were found urns containing calcined human bones and ashes. Near the Castlehill, at Seamill, about four years ago, whilst the new line of the coast road was being executed, two entire urns of this sort were dug out in a stratum of gravel, about three feet below the surface, but without the addition of any mound being raised over them. One of these, it is believed, has since been deposited in Anderson's Institution in Glasgow. These urns were formed of coarse red clay, of very rude manufacture, yet well proportioned and modelled in the vase form. In harden- ing, the 6re appears to have been applied solely to the inside of the urn, that part being changed to a dark colour, whilst the out- side remains of the natural red. A short time ago, a splendid an- tique siver brooch, of large size, richly ornamented with filigree work, and bearing a Runic inscription^ was found near Hunter- ston ; a description with drawings of which, it is said, is in prepara- tion for the Transactions of the Society of Scottish Antiquaries. One of the large ships of the celebrated Spanish armada of 1588, afler the dispersion of that formidable fleet, having found her way into the Firth of Clyde, ultimately perished close by the castle of Portincross. ^^ She sunk in about ten fiithom water, at no great distance from the shore," on a clean firm sandy bottom. Tradition afiirms that part of the crew were saved, and it seems not improbable that most of them might get to land. In De Foe's Tour, Vol. iv. ed. 1779, there is an interesting account of an at* tempt to recover property out of this vessel, by means of a diving machine, in the year 1740. A good many brass and iron ordnance were obtained firom the .wreck, which were all carried off except one of iron, which still lies on the beach beside the old castle ; and on which may still be fidntly traced the Spanish crown and arms near the breech of the piece.f * A few yean ago, an opening being made in the ground outside of the rampart at Seamill, a considerable quantity of charcoal of wd, bones of cattle and deers* horns, some of which appearing to have bt«n town asunder^ were found a few feet below the surfece, the materials of the wall having fellen down oyer the place. t In the legends of the place, the sinking of this ship is ascribed to the spells of a noted witch of the neighbourhood, Geils Buchanan, who, mounting the brow of the promontory and twirling her spindle, with the lengthening thread the hapless royagers sunk down. WEST KILBRIDE. 259 III. — Population. , That the population of this parish at a former period experien- ced a very remarkable decrease, there can be no manner of doubt. The following particulars relative to this head have been as- certained with much care and accuracy by Mr Smith, our pre- sent excellent parochial teacher ; and they certainly afford a cu- rious and interesting view of the subject From the register of births, it appears that, from 1692 to 1718, inclusive, a period of twenty-seven years, the annual average number of births was 42 ; for five years subsequent to IdOl, the population being 795, these registrations average 19f ; and during five years preceding 1831, population 1684^ the annual average of births was 51 f. So that tak- ing these data and criteria, the average population from 1692 to 1718, must have stood about 1373. According to Dr Webster, tbe population here in 1775 was - 885 in 1793^ as in the former Account, 698 And the progressive Government censuses are as ibUows : 1801 795 1811, 1015 1821, 1371 1831, 1684 Number of inhabitants resident in the village. 1007 in the landward parts, 677 Number of families. 309 &milies employed in agriculture, 112 in trade and manu&ctures, 165 others. 32 Tbe total number of inhabited houses is 217 In 1831, the number of males was 849 females, 835 The yearly average of births for the last seven years is 51^ marriages for the same period, JH deaths. m The average number of persons under 15 years of age, is 692 from 15 to 30 465 SO to 50 319 50to70 152 upwards of 70 56 1684 There are no nobility resident here, nor have there been any such for ages. The number of proprietors of land of above L. 50 of yearly value, is 13 ofunmarried men above 50, - - 32 bachelors, • • - 20 widowers, - - - 12 Unmarried women above 45, via. spinsters, 35, widows 45, 80 The average number of children in each family is about - 44 fatuous persons, - - 8 deaf and dumb, - - - 2 That the intellectual, moral, and religious character of the peo- ple of this parish, in common with that of the whole country, has long been progres^vely and steadily improving, it is pleasing to con* 260 AYRSHIRE. template ; and nothing but the darkest prejudice could lead any one to controvert or deny it That " security," which the inhabitants here were supposed formerly to possess, from their sequestered si- tuation, against ^Uhe encroaching influences of that corruption which other places of more business and resort" were exposed to, was at best but a very equivocal sort of advantage* The union of the two kingdoms found Scotland with the most inadequate means of employment for her population, miserably scanty as it was ; and previous ages of feudal barbarity had sunk the condition of the people to the lowest point of indigence, ignorance, and im- morality. Nor did the union, so indispensable to her improve- ment, at first lead to those ameliorations which have ultimately so copiously flowed from it On the contrary, its first fruits were only to allure the inhabitants of Scotland, altogether ignorant of trade and commerce, and, with no systematic knowledge of agriculture, almost universally to plunge into the demoralizing vortex of smug- gling, which, from the new excise imposts then laid on, seemed to ofier so great a temptation. So generally were all classes, high and low, connected with this outrageous practice, that, for a long time, the recent and ill-consolidated government of the Revolution was utterly unable effectually to repress such disgraceful violations of its authority. For greatly more than half a century subsequent to the union, such was the inauspicious condition of this country ; and there can be no doubt if it did not rather retrograde, it was impossible any material advancement could be made. During the last three years there have been 6 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The extent of land of all qualities occasionally in or fit for cultivation is about 6000 acres ; of waste fit only for pasture, 2650, exclusive of Little Cumbray, and from which neither its situation nor nature admit that the arable may ever be profitably augmented from it, — attempts of this kind having al- ready been pushed to their utmost limits, if not a step beyond them. There is now here no undivided common. The extent of growing wood has before been alluded to. The management of trees is perhaps the worst understood, and least attended to species of culture in this part of the country, and assuredly the parish of Kilbride forms no exception to the general depravity. Beta of Land. — Small patches of land near the village fetch as high as from L. 8 to L. 5 an acre, but the medium rental of the WEST KILBBIDU. 261 whole of the arable parts does not probably exceed L. 1, 10s. — the moorish wastes, perhaps, not 5s. which would make the gross annual rent of land about L. 9662.* The value of produce and cost of labour is much the same all over the district of Cuning- ham ; and, as particulars of these must be communicated from many parishes of greater importance, it seems unnecessary they should be repeated here. The arable pastures are chiefly occu- pied with dairy cows, the produce being almost exclusively cheese of the quality known by the name of Dunlop-cheese. The moors are principally stocked with sheep of the native or black-faced race. The different species of live-stock in 1819 were as follows : horses of all kinds, 162 ; dairy cows, 600 ; rearing and other varieties of cattle, 790; sheep, 2373; swine, 218 ;i* and there is no reason to think that great alteration has taken place since that period. The natural adaptation of this parish, whether with respect to climate, soil, or situation in the great manufacturing district in which it lies, is obviously as to the dairy ; and the practice ac- cordingly becomes more and more accommodated to that species of farming. The soil is far too deficient in calcareous and adhe- sive components to fit it in any degree for continued aration ; and cannot advantageously be subjected to the plough but af);er a con- siderable period of rest. Neither are many of the pastures rich enough for the purpose of feeding stock ; hence the alternative of the dairy, perhaps the most suitable to which it ever can be ap- plied, has wisely been universally adopted. The whole is now pretty completely enclosed and subdivided, the fences being ge- nerally hedge and ditch, but in high and arid situations stone dikes have usually been adopted ; and for about fifi;y years past all the ordinary means of improving the soil have pretty successfully been in practice. Here, as perhaps everywhere else, road-making was the last improvement to make its appearance in the manage- ment of farms, though theoretically it ought to have preceded all others, as, without facility of access, every operation must be done, at a great disadvantage. Consequently much this way remains to be done ; there being scarcely a farm yet sufficiently provided with * The number of arable farms may be about fifty, which makes the medium size about 120 acres, the largest about 300) the smallest 30. For some time back, an in- clination to reduce the size of farms has prevailed, some of the largest having latterly been divided into two, others into three separate possessions ; and, but for the expense of additional buildings it is probable this practice would soon become more generaL The moors are chiefly divided into two sheep-walks, that of Crosby and Southanan. t Topographical Description of Cuninghame, published at Irvine in 1820, by Mr George Robertson, a man well versed in such matters, and whose work will be found to supply a great deal of thb nature. 262 ATR8UIBB. the means of internal communication. Lime is very generally now applied to the soil, and in considerable quantities ; but the distance, (from four to eight miles) and in some cases the badness of the roads, render it a very costly application. Sea-weed is pretty abundant, but the right to it belongs exclusively to lands adjoining to the sea shore, each property, too, being confined to its own boundary. The quickness with which this substance dissolves, re- quires its instant application to the soil or admixture into compost on its being cast ashore; but from the former wretchedness of the roads, and it may be indolence of the elder husbandmen, the prac- Uce has generally been to deposit it near the beach antil it was greatly reduced, often to not a third of its original quantum, that the labour of carting it might be abridged ! More correct ideas of this, however, begin to prevail, and a better course to be followed, all being now satisfied of the great loss sustained by such neglect. The grain crops raised here are, — wheat, oats, barley, and a little rye along the sea^shore, of pulse, beans, pease, and, to a limited extent, tares. The green crops are, potatoes, turnips, and carrots. Though of late years the cultivation of wheat has been carried to an imprudent extent, the quantity sown still bears but a small pro- portion to that of oats, perhaps not more than as one to four. Wheat is very liable to disease and injury here. The climate is too humid, and consequently cold, as the soil is perhaps of too feeble a stamina to admit of this fine grain ever being extensively or profitably cultivated in this neighbourhood. Oats, on the con- trary, thrive exceedingly well, and their straw is superior to all others as fodder for the dairy cows ; yet it is remarked, that an equal luxuriance in the growth of the crop here does not realize an equal return of grain with soils of a more clayish nature, and the seed requires more frequently to be renewed. The barley tribes are likewise pretty congenial to this locality, though for a good while past their cultivation has been very limited. But they will probably soon be more appreciated and attended to, barley being a much easier crop^ and more suitable than any other grain for sowing down for pasture. Beans, especially in the^drill mode, succeed extremely well on even very light land, and are cultivated to a considerable extent ; but peas are of difficult management, albeit for poor dry soils they seem not ill suited, and often produce good returns ; the quantity sown is but trifling. Potatoes are not nearly so well adapted to feeble spongy soils as turnips, — a circum- stance which is every year being made more apparent in the cul- WEST KILBRIDE. 263 ttvatiou of these crops in this place.* Hitiierto potatoes have been far more extensively cultivated than turnips, which are of recent introduction ; but tliis is fast changing in favour of the latter* The Swedish turnip b greatly preferred to all others, and it thrives un« commonly well oo almost all kinds of soil and situations. Carrots have been still more recently introduced ; and, though occasional- ly yielding singularly profitable crops, are not yet sown to any con- siderable breadth. They are of nice and troublesome cultivation^ and withal subject in an uncommon degree to be destroyed by maggots, and otherwise. Mangel-wurzel has but just made its ap«- pearance, and it is not likely successfully to compete with Swe- dish turnip; nevertheless it deserves further trial, as the plant seems to thrive very well on good deep land. Ryegrass is extensively raised here; and it is nearly all ripened for seed, which sells dor from 2s. to ds. a bushel. But this is a practice by no means con- sistent with good farming, the succeeding pastures being greatly deteriorated by its scourging effects, so that nothing but the pres- 43ing necessities of the cultivator can excuse such a course. Flax may be said to have wholly disappeared, scarcely a patch being now to be seen. Leasee. — The usual duration of leases has long been for nine- teen years; but latterly, there seems an inclination on the part of landlords to shorten them, which is certainly a very mistaken view, whether as regards the one party or the other ; the independence and prosperity of the tenant alone can redound to the interest and advantage of the owner of the soil. • Farm-Buildings* — As to farm-buildings, a great many steadings have latterly been reconstructed, and such, for the most part, have been substantially and commodiously built. Others are still very comfortless and unsuitable to the purposes required. The imple- ments of husbandry here are all of the most approved order, the iron plough being general, but single horse carts alone are used. Thrashing-milU have become general, few fanm of any size being without one. Manufacture$. — Besides a tan-work, which employs eight or ten hands, the only branch of manufacture here is that of weaving and * The following incidental notice of the early cultiyation of the potatoe oooura lo the iessional records here :— « Sabbath, October 24» 1725 : This day compeared Bo- bert Miller (and some others) who owned, that about twintae days ago, they were at Corsbie, in time of publick worship, but pretended that they were seeking a horse whicfa had wandered away. It being su|^;ested by some of the members, that they were digging /yofto a considerable portion of which is still unexhausted. There are here no chapels of ease ; but there is a very neat and commodious place of worship belonging to the United Associated Synod, built about fifteen years ago ; and having accommodation for 434 sitters^ though the usual attendance does not probably exceed 150. They are at present without an ordained minister, their late pastor, the Rev. Peter Mather, who was appointed to officiate permanent- ly amongst them, having left them, and joined himself to those de- nominated Independents. Education. — There are in all three schools in this parish ; all situated in the village, but the parochial one alone enjoys any en- dowment. The average number of scholars attending all three 266 AYRSHIRE. for the last five years has been 211 ; in the parish school, day classes 96, night classes 39 ; the other schools have, one 40, the other S6. In the parish school are taught English i^ading and grammar, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, geography, and na- vigation, also the rudiments of Latin, Greek, and French. The other two are confined to English, writing, and arithmetic The school salary is L.27, 17s. 8d., exclusive of the emoluments of session-clerk, which office has always been enjoyed by the parochial teacher. The average fees of teaching are, at the parish school, ds. per quarter; at one of the private schools, 3s., at the other only Is. 6d. The age at which children enter school is usually from five to six years. Scarcely any individual brought up here has not been taught to read and write, and the £ar greater number, in addition, the first rules of arithmetic. The pa- rish school-room, like the church, is quite unsuitable to the pur^ pose for which it is required. * It is contained in the ground-floor of an old house formerly the manse, and, what from the nature of the situation, extreme lowness of the ceiling, and rude inhospitable interior, its ventilation is inconceivably bad, and cannot be but most pernicious to the health and constitutions of its young and ten- der inmates, as well as most uncomfortable to the teachers. The people, it cannot be doubted, are every way sensible of the inestimable blessings of education ; but, for a good many years past, it is to be feared, many of them have been but little able to afford the necessary expense of obtaining it to their luckless offspring. At the age they should enter school, great numbers of children here, as elsewhere, especially in the manufacturing districts, are put to labour in a variety of ways, that they may contribute to their own physical support; and thus, but for the means of Sunday schools, and other expedients, would inevitably be left to grow up without any knowledge of letters whatever ! This parish, however, is exceedingly well provided with teachers, and the abili- ties, diligence, and assiduity of Mr Smith of the parochial school, are above all praise. Nor are the conduct and efficiency of the pri- vate teachers in their sphere at all less deserving of commendation. A parochial subscription library has been established in Kilbride for about seven years, and now consists of upwards of 400 volumes of pretty judiciously selected works in general literature. By this means, a taste for reading is being diffused among the young, which cannot &il of being productive of the most beneficial effects. FHendly SoaV/iV^.— There are three different friendly societies WEST KILBRIDE. 267 established here, one of which was instituted so early as 1796. They are all supported by small entry monies and annual contri- butions. The oldest affords aid to decayed and necessitous mem* bers only ; the other two give support, during inability to labour, without reference to circumstances. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of r^ular pensioners on the poor's fund for the last six years has been 14]^« Average weekly allowance to each Is. 7d. Id all for the year* . L. 69 2 Average ineidcntal expenses in like manner, . . 1113 6 L.70 15 6 Contra average ^ncome from the usual sooroes for same period, SO 13 4 L.20 2 2 This deficit of L. 20, 2s. 2d. for the current and preceding year has been made up by assessment, — a mode to which heritors every where show the greatest reluctance, whatever be the feelings of the poor on the subject; and nothmg but the utmost necessity assuredly will ever force them to the adoption of such an alterna- tive. Nevertheless, it must be remarked, assessment is the only fair and equitable manner of proceeding in such a matter. As to any argument about the feelings of people reduced to the neces* sity of receiving charity, whether it shall thus be justly apportion- ed, or fall exclusively, on the benevolent, such can only be viewed as ingenious sophistry, altogether to evade the unwelcome burden. The scources from which the ordinary funds arise here, are : col- lections at church door ; fees for proclamations of marriage and use of mortcloths; rent of a house, and rent of some pews in the church. Inns. — Of inns or houses for the sale of spirits, &c there are ten licensed within the parish, seemmgly all conducted with order and propriety ; most of them, however, are but on a small scale, and certainly but little necessary to any beneficial purpose. RieL — The ordinary fuel used here is coal, chiefly from Ste- venston, distant about six miles, and a little from Dairy, still far- ther off. Peats are used in the hilly parts. MiSCELLANBOUS OBSERVATIONS. As regards agriculture, the system at present in use here seems in most respects to be exceedingly well suited to the nature of the locality ; but that it is still susceptible of great improvement admits not of a doubt Draining requires to be carried incalcula* biy farther ; and, as before noticed, vast improvement might be ef- 268 AYRSHIRE. fected by the construction of roads for internal access in almost every farm.* The only portion of the parish which seems to re- quire a common drain of any considerable size to be yet made, is the fine plain running along from Hunterston to Ardneill ; by which means, a considerable portion of very manageable land might still be greatly in^proved* But as this would affect different pro- perties, difficulties must attend any arrangements thereto. Great- er facility might yet certainly be obtained in the procuring of lime, by the further improvement of roads, and perhaps by some arrangement for its importation by sea. It need hardly be ob- served, nothing could more immediately tend to encourage im- provement, than a reduction of the cost of an anticle so essential to the proper management of land. In reflecting on the improvements which have been effected since the era of the first Account, there is no change more pleas- ing to contemplate, than that which has taken place in the man- ners and habits of the people themselves. This is especially ob- servable of the rural portion of the community, though certainly great progress has been made in the domestic and personal con- dition of all. At the former period, farm-houses, almost without exception, presented no indications of superior comfort or refine- ment to the ordinary habitations of labourers, differing, indeed, in nothing from such, but in their more ample stores and greater means of rude hospitality. As a criterion, there was not probably at that period a carpeted parlour to be met with in a farm-house within the parish. . Now matters are reversed, very few being with- out that mark of decent comfort ; whilst the general economy of most in every way corresponds with this indication of refinement. But the chief advantage of which this parish probably is sus- ceptible, is as a sea-bathing station and coast residence, though hitherto very little has been attempted towards such an object The sea-shore all the way from the fine harbour of Ardrossan to Portincross northward, a reach of above five miles, is in all re- spects peculiarly suitable for such a purpose. Bordering on the * Our existing road- laws seem much to require alteration and amendment. What is called Statute labour money, is levied most unjustly- as regards all town commu- nities, tbey baWng no control in its expenditure, which is at the sole disposal of a certain class of proprietors of land, and who of course naturally enough direct its ap- plication in a great measure to their own farm-roads. All roads of any considerable thorough&re should probably be constituted turnpike, whilst a general act might be framed, empowering all towns and villages who chose to avail themselves of the pri- vUege, to assess themselves for the maintenance and improvement of their streets. Purely agricultural lines should be wholly made and maintained by the owners of the lands they affect. WE8T KILBRIDE. 269 wide and open channel, with a southern aspect, the beach is finely shelving and accessible ; whilst all along, steep and picturesque banks give complete protection from the north and east. Facility of conveyance alone seems awanting to give to this locality every possible superiority over all places lying higher up in the narrow portions of the Frith, where of course it is impossible but that the marine influence must be greatly less efficacious. This disadvan- tage of intercourse will probably soon be obviated. By the com- pletion of the Ardrossan and^ Glasgow railway, already in part exe- cuted, the most ample means of access will be obtained. The distance in all is little more than thirty miles, and by adopting the locomotive engine, may, with the greatest safety, be accomplished in about an hour and a half, and at a very small expense. The benefit of such an improvement would not be confined to this neighbourhood ; but would in an almost equal degree extend to the opposite coast of Arran, the romantic shores of which, by means of steam-boats from Ardrossan, might then be reached from the city of Glasgow in perhaps less than three hours and a half! Such are the capabilities of improvement which this country every- where presents, tending to the further comfort and convenience of its great population ; and it is impossible to set limits to what may yet be effected under circumstances favourable to the de- velopement of its boundless and varied resources. Island of Little Cumbrat. The Island of Little or Lesser Cumbray lies about midway be- twixt the southern part of the island of Bute and the promontory of Portincross, in this parish, distant from either about two and a half miles. It is, however, attached to the parish of Kilbride only quoad sacra ; civilly and politically, it forms part of the shire of Bute, the juridical seat of which is the burgh of Rothesay. It lies in length nearly north and south, and, according to a parish atlas of Cun- inghame, published at Beith in 1*829, contains 1^ square mile in superficial extent, equal to nearly 700 acres ; wh^re highest, it may be from 500 to 600 feet above the level of the sea. It is the property of the Earl of Eglinton, whose family has long posses- sed it. This island is composed entirely of secondary trap, but which appears to rest on the brown sandstone of the opposite coast, which comes into view along the water's edge at the landing place on the east side, and very probably is continued throughout. 270 AYRSHIRE. The trap is formed into thick strata, very distinctly markedi rising like steps of a stair upwards, declining, however, at a considerable angle from the north. On its summit, near the centre of the is- land, is seated a circular tower of about 30 feet in bdght, the re- mains of a former lighthouse — a very conspicuous land-mark from all points in the channel. The present lighthouse, referred to as building in the former Account, stands on the edge of a precipice, overhanging the sea, on the west side of the island, opposite Bute, and presents, with the keeper's residence and garden on the little plain adjoining, an interesting'and beautiful object, in contrast with the wild crags amidst which it is placed. The caves formerly al- luded to are mere fissures in the rocks. They all occur low down, and near the south end of the island, where the stratification is more distinct and columnar. The largest of them, which is on the east side, is dignified with the name of King's Cave; and, in the tales of the place, is said to communicate, by a submarine passage, with the opposite island of Bute — such have ever been the speculations of credulity and unguided fancy. For a long time past, this rocky islet has been principally occu- pied as a rabbit-warren, — about 450 dozen being taken annually ; but there are besides a few sheep and some young cattle grazed, on iL Cultivation is wholly confined to a few potatoe gardens. The number of families resident on it is four« including the tacks- man's, who rents the whole, and the lighthouse keeper's. In for- mer times, no fewer than eight or ten families are said to have been located here, who all shared in the occupancy of its surface ; but it is evident they must mainly have subsisted by fishing ; yet many traces of cultivation are to be discerned on the scanty soil of the steps of the rocks, where alone any thing could ever have been forced off it. Except a few ash trees near its north east corner, and pret- ty large patches of elder bushes on the opposite shore, the island is wholly destitute of wood. Both of the Cumbrays were undoubtedly included in the do- mains of the Stewart family, ancestors of the Kings of Scotland. On the erection of the principality of Scotland by Robert IIL, in favour of his eldest son, in 1404, the smaller Cumbray was includ- ed in it ; and a century afterwards, it appears to have been kept as a royal preserve of some kind. In the registry of the privy-seal, the following entry occurs : — October 2^ 1515. — Lettre to Hew Erie of Eglintoune, mak- and him and hut assignais, keeparis, oversearis, correkaris, and sup- WEST KILBRIDE. 271 leans of the Me of LitiU Comeray^ the dere, cunyngis, and ^ild bestis being thairin, quhill the Kingis perBte age of xv yere ; be-* cans Robert Huntare of Huntarestoune, forrestar of heritage of the said isle, is nocht of power to resist the personis that waistis the samyn, without suplie and help, &c."* And Mr Donald Monro, in his Description of the Western Isles, 1594, observes, ^* Besides this (the Greater Cumbray,) lyes ane iyle callit Cumbray of the Dais, because there is many Dayis in- till it'' Not a vestige of the deer here alluded to has survived within the memory of the present time, nor does any remembrance of them appear to have been handed down by local tradition. On an islet rock on its east side, near tbe middle of the island, stands an ancient square tower, the walls of which are still nearly entire. It is about 35 feet in height, embattled. The area in- side is 28 feet by 15, the walls being 6 in thickness; and as usual the first story is vaulted over with stone arches. During Crom« well's visit to Scotland, Principal Baillie alludes to his having re- tired to this fortlet for some time, to which the family of Eglinton, his great patrons, appear at that conjuncture to have withdrawn. « ♦ • ♦ Cromwell, with the whole body of his army and can- non, comes peaceably by the way of Kilsyth to Glasgow. The magistrates and ministers fled all away. I got to the Isle of Cum- ray, with my Lady Montgomery, but left all my family and goods to Cromwell's courtesy, which indeed was great ; for he took such a course with his soldiers, that they did less displeasure at Glas- gow than if they had been in London, though Mr Zachary Boyd railed on them all to their £sice in the High Church." — Letters^ Sfc ii. 395. In the former Account it is stated, that this castle " was sur- prised and burned by Cromwell's soldiers," which is by no means improbable, though, perhaps resting only on the authority of oral tradition. Lord Eglinton appearsall through to have been highly ini- mical to the Protector. Monk, for some short time, placed a small garrison in the house of Eglinton itself; and it is stated, that the Castle of Ardrossan, a place of considerable strength, was then thrown down by the same authority. In the burgh records of Glasgow, is registered a curious contract, dated in 1568, in which the following particulars relative to the castle of Cumbray and * The followiDg notice of Uie family of Hunterston occurs in Mr Thomas Crawfurd's HerMrie Collectlont io the Advocates* Library : « Hunter of Hunterston (preefsdu* venatorum regiorutnj in Cuningham,** bears for arms *< vertf 3 hunting horns, Or^ bandred, gule:** 272 AYRSHIRE. others appear: — " Hew Erie of Eglintoun" contracted with *^ George Elphinstoun glssinwricht, burges of Glasgow, that the said George suld uphald and maDtene the places of Ardrossan, Eglintoun, Polnone, Glasgow, and Cumray in glassin wark, as also the place of Irvin ;" and for all which, Elphinstoun was to re- ceive yearly, ^^ twa boUis meill, and ane stane cheis," *^ and gif it • happinis the said Erie to hald house in ony of thir foir-saidis places when it sal happin, the said George to wirk, the said George sail have his meit the time that he wirks, and als when the said George tursis creillis of glas and leid to Irvyn, Ardrossan, Eglintoun, and Cumray, the said Erie sal caus ane carrage hors to turs the samyn out of Glasgow,"* &c The ruins of the chapel and tomb of St Vey, alluded to in the former Account, still remain. They are situated near the top of the hill, a little northward of the castle. The chapel is 33 feet by 15 inside ; the walls, very little of which are now standing, are about three feet in thickness, but the mortar with which tbey have been built seems to have been bad, and very sparingly used. In the tomb, which is at a little distance north of the chapel, are two flat stones, on one of which, now broken in two, are sculptured some ornamental tracery, such as is usually to be seen on those ancient monuments called Danish stones, but no vestige of any inscription is to be observed on any of them. This inclosure, which is of a square form, -and of very limited dimensions, was originally surrounded by a stone wall, but of which only the foundation now exists. There is a tradition, that this chapel, ano- ther at Ardrossan, and a third on the Garrock-head, in Bute, were all served by one and the same priest, who of course, journeyed per vices among them. About twenty years ago, the late Earl of Eglinton caused to be opened some tumuli on the north extremity of this island, called Shanniwilly point ; and in which were found sepulchral urns, and fragments of military weapons, which were all carried off to Eglin- ton Castle. A son and successor of the historian Wodrow, in the parish of Eastwood, spent his latter days in this sequestered island, where he died, and was interred in a tomb, which had some time before been constructed for the sepulture of one of his daughters, who had died here in early life of consumption. This romantic burial- * To this contract <* Maister Patrik Wodrow, vicar of Eglescbeme," ancestor of the historian of the Scotish Church, is a witness. DALRYMPLE. 2/3 place is situated on the brink of a high precipice, overlooking the ocean near the south-west corner of the island ; a spot to which it is said the young lady during her illness had become peculiarly attached, and where before her death, as stated on her tombstone, she requested she might be laid. September 1837. PARISH OF DALRYMPLE. PRESBYTEUY OF AYE, SYNOD OP GLASGOW AND AYR. " THE REV. ROBERT WALLACE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — In charters of the fourteenth century, the name of this parish was written Dalrimpill, which is evidently an abbre- viation of the Celtic, Dail-a^^hruimpuiU, Anglice, Dale of the crooked pool. This etymology literally applies to the situation of the village, where the church of Dalrymple stands, at a bend or turn of the river Doon ; and " this (says an eminent Gaelic scho* lar, who visited this place in 1832,) is exactly what a Highlander, who knew no English, would denominate the valley of DalrympW Extent and Boundaries. — The extent of this parish, from west to east, is 7 miles ; its greatest breadth is 3 miles ; and it contains a surface of about 12 square miles. It is bounded on the north and east, by the parishes of Ayr, Coylton, and Dalmellington ; and on the south and west, by the river Doon, which separates it from the parishes of Straiten, Kirkmichael, and Maybole. Topographical Appearances. — With the exception of the valley^ where the village and church are situated, none of the rest of the parish can be termed level, for the surface abounds with numerous rising grounds, or little round hills, from most of which are seen the Islands of Bute and Arran, the peninsula of Cantyre, Ailsa- Craig, and the ^ lofty Benlomond," which is 44' north from, and on the same meridian line with the British fortlet on Woodland, the most southern eminence of this parish. From Kirkmien, the highest part of the parish, the north of Ireland is distinctly seen in clear weather. Climate and Diseases. — The climate of the parish, and especi* AYR. s 274 AYRSHIRE. ally in the valley, is mild, and considered healthy. In tho course of the last eight years, out of a population of 960 and upwards, only 114 died. Of these, there were under twenty, 48 ; between twenty and forty, 23; forty and sixty, 16 ; sixty and seventy, 10 ; seventy and eighty, 8 ; eighty and ninety, 6 ; upwards of ninety, 3. The diseases of which they died are the following : viz. decay of nature, 24 ; consumption, 20 ; inflammation, 7 ; fever, 9 ; water in the head, 7 ; water in the chest, 4 ; hooping-cough, 5 ; measles, 1 ; croup, 5 ; dysentery, 3 ; dropsy, 2 ; apoplexy, 2 ; cancer, 4 ; small-pox, 1 ; scrofula, 1 ; influenza, 1 ; ulceration of the tongue, 1 ; liver complaint, 2 ; killed, 1 ; unknown, 14. Hydrography ^Springs. — There are several mineral springs ; but, with the exception of one on the estate of Barbieston, they are seldom of ever thought of. With regard to this one, the late Mr Fullarton of Skeldon, formerly one of the heritors of this parish, sent the writer of this Account, the following communication : ^^ I was at first led to notice the mineral spring near Skeldon, in 1798^ when I heard that the late Captain Campbell of Barbieston used it himself, and frequently made his servants drink of it* It is a chalybeate, but not strong ; also, I believe, a gentle cathartic For some years it ran copiously, but the working of marl in the bank above brought down the brae face, and nearly choked the spring, though it has been constantly but gently discharging in that place ever since. I never knew it freeze during the severest frosts I have ever seen, having had frequent opportunities during winter, when shooting through these ^ banks and braes.' I have not analysed it, but I have no doubt, if properly opened and secured (which I once intended to do,) it might prove both useful and medicinally beneficial." Lochs. — There are four lochs in the parish, Martinham, Snipe, Kerse, and Lindston. Martinham is the largest, being about a mile and a-half in length, by a furlong, at an average, in breadth, jand it stretches a considerable way into the parish of Coylton. Its greatest depth is 26 feet. There is a small islet in this loch, and on it, the ruins of a building (probably in former times the man- sion-house of the proprietor of Martinham,) 100 feet in length, by 30 in breadth. The islet is almost entirely covered with wood, and both the wood and the ruins are completely cased in ivy. The scenery, around Martinham is exceedingly picturesque. There are in all the lochs abundance of pike, perch, and eel ; they are frequented too by wild geese and ducks, teal, widgeon, &c. ^ DALRYMPLE. 275 A pike was lately caught in Martinham loch, which weighed 29^ imperial pounds. An ordinary sized pike had first seized the bait and hook, and the large one was taken, by swallowing all three to- gether. The outlet from Martinham Loch is a small burn which flows into the river Doon. River, — The only river in the parish is the Doon, which runs along its south and west sides, and forms the boundary between the districts of Kyle and Carrick. This river flows from Loch Doon, and, after a course of thirty miles, or thereabouts, of various windings, and passing nine gentlemen's seats, viz. Berbeth, Hollybush, Skeldonj Cassillis, Mookwood, Auchendrane, Doonholm, Doonside, Mount Charles ; and three kirks, Dalmellington, Dalrymple, and AUoway,. also the monument erected in 1822, to the memory of Burns, the cottage where he was born, &c., it falls into the Frith of Clyde, near Ayr. Like other rivers issuing from lochs, the Doon is more steady in its course, and does not rise so high, or fall so much away, as the generality of them. It is, however, occasionally sub- ject to floods. About fifty years ago, one of these occurred, which did considerable damage ; and in January 1814, the melting of the snow on the adjacent hills swelled the river to such an extent, that it burst up immense fragments of ice, and forced them forward with irresistible impetuosity, in consequence of which the trees on the banks were bent like willows, — Skeldon wooden bridge was carried away, — the village gardens were under ice and water, and the village houses were inundated from three to four feet above the floors.* The banks of the Doon are in general bold, and well-wooded, and there are many fine haughs on its sides. Fishing. — The stake-nets at the mouth of the river have injured the fishing above very considerably; but notwithstanding these, salmon contrive to get up, and many are taken every year, from ten to twenty pounds in weight Besides salmon, there are also in the river sea and yellow trout, par, eel, and pike. Geology and Minercdogy. — The geological structure of this pa- rish is very distinctly exhibited along the banks of the river Doon, which, as has been already mentioned, bounds it on the south and west. The banks are, in several places, of considerable height, and, by the influence of the weather, the strata, especially at Bore- * A very interesting acoount of this was communioKted to the editor of the Ayr Advertiser, and published at the time, by Mr Campbell of Cumnock, who was then parochial schoolmaster of Dalrymple. Mr Campbell was an «ye- witness of the scene» and kindly received the villagers, who were driven from their houses, into his schoolt and supplied them with every comfort. 276 AYRSHIRE. ^ land, have been exposed ; and in jutting out among the trees and copse-wood, by which they are generally covered, present striking - and picturesque appearances. Here are observed beds of liinestone, old red sandstone, and conglomerate, which dip at an inclination of between twenty and thirty degrees towards the north-east, under the coal Belds of Coylton and Patna ; and these are obviously to be classed under the same series of rocks, which in the neighbour* ing parishes of Maybole and Kirkmichael are surmounted by the coal measures. The limestone is generally found in masses, with clayey matter intervening, and is seldom more than a foot in thick- ness. It is extremely hard, and presents only occasionally the traces of small shells. It has in several places been dug out, and found, after burning, to yield a good lime for agricultural purposes. Trap penetrating the strata, and presenting the usual appearances, is also found in several districts ; and boulders, both of trap and granite, are scattered over the fields. Soils. — The soil is of various kinds. The greatest part, how- ever, is the clay ; the rest consists of gravel, sand, and loam< In some places, the clay soil is very poor and barren, scarcely repay- ^ ing the expense of cultivation ; in others, when properly managed, and sheltered from the wintry winds, by plantations or the adja- cent elevated grounds, it produces excellent crops. The clay soil is in some places red, in others blue, and a bluish-white. The « gravelly and the sandy soils yield the best pasture, and are best adapted for potatoes and turnips. The loam is mostly on the banks of the river, lochs, and rivulets, to which it has evidently been carried down from the higher grounds by the floods in winter. There is very little moss land in the parish. Botany. — The following list of plants of the rarer kind found in this parish, was furnished by Mr Smith of Monkwood Grove, an enthusiastic botanist. The writer has here arranged Mr Smith's list according to the Linnaean system, and accompanied it with an English translation : III. Trianoru. 2. PimpincllR mifrRga, Common burnet 1. ValeriRnR officinalis, Great wild vale< saxifrage. nan. 6. Drosera rotundifolia. Round-leaved 1. Scirpua laeustris, Bulrush. sun-dew. % Aira canescens, Gray hair-grass. ' 2. Briza media, Common quidLing^grass. VI. Hbxamdria. 2. Arundo phragmites, Common reed. I. Allium ursinum, Broad-leaved garlic 1. Nartbecium ossifragum, Lancashire V. PxMTAXDRiA. Rsphodel. 1. Menyanthes trifuliata, Com. buckbean 1. Peplls portula^ Water purslane. 2. Sium verticillatum, Whorled water 5. AUama plantago, Greater water plan- parsnep. tain. DALRYMPLE. 277 Alisma ranunculoides, Small do. VIII. OCTANDUA. 1. Epilobium hirsutum, Great hairy wil- low-herb. -parviflorum, Small-flower- ed do. palustre, Marsh do. Nasturtium terrestre, Annual rocket water cress. XVIII. POLYADELPHIA. 4. Hypericum elodes, Marsh St John's wort XX. Gykakdria. i . Orchis hifolia. Butterfly orchis. ■ mascula. Early purple do. — — ~- latifolia, Mar^ do. .^...-. maculate, Spotted do. XXI. MOKOSCIA. 3. Typha Utifolia, Great reed-mace. 5. Sparganium simplex, Unbranched bur- reed. — ~— — — natans. Floating do. XXII. DiCECiA. Sk Ruscus aculeatus. Common butcher's broom. XXIV. Ckyttogawia. 2. Botrychium^unaria, Com. moon wort. 4. Polypodium phegopteris, Pale moun- tain polypody. dryopteris, Three-branch- ed do. 4. Blcchiium boreale, Northern blechnumt 4. Aspidium dilatatum, Great crested shield fern. 5. Pilularia globulifera, Pepper grass pill- wort. 1. Erica tetralix, Croas- leaved heath. — — cinerea, Fine-leaved do. X. Decamdria. 2. Chrysoplenium alternifolium, Alter- nate-leaved golden saxifrage. — — — — oppositifolium, Oppo. site-leaved do. 3. Stellariabolostea, Greater stitch wort. -— ~^— graminea, Lesser do. XI. DODECANDRIA. 1. Ly thrum salicaria. Purple loose strife. 1 . Agrimonia eupatoria, Com. agrimony. XII. ICOSAXORIA. 1. Prunus padus. Bird-cherry. 5. Geum urbanum. Common avens. — — rivale, Water do. XIII. POLYANDRIA. 1. Nymphaea lutea. Yellow water lily. ^ alba. White do. 7. Trollius Europaeus, Com. globe flower. 7. Caltba palustris. Com. marsh marigold. XV. Tetradynamja. 2. Nasturtium officinale, (*ommon water- cress. Plantations, — The plantations consist of oak, elm, ash, alder, birch, plane, lime, larch, — silver, spruce, and Scotch fir. There are six beautiful oaks in the old garden at Skeldon, sup- posed to be upwards of 300 years old. A native of this parish, who died here about five and twenty years ago, on the verge of a hundred, said, that he remembered no difference in them in the whole course of his life ; and that the aged people in his time spoke of them as being more than 200 years old. Of two which were mea- sured lately, one was 12 feet round, and contained within the branches a circumference of 220 feet ; the other was 10 feet round, and 20 feet' from the root to the branches. Near the oaks are se- veral larches, equal in height and beauty to the generality of those in the Duke of Atholl's plantations at Dunkeld. Half-way beween the church and manse, and in the glebe, are two magnificent and beautiful trees, a sycamore and a horse-chestnut. 11. — Civil History. The barony of Dalrymple was held in former tirne^ by a family, 278 AYRSHIRE. who took from their lands the surname of Dalrymple. In the reign of David 11. 1330-32, the barony was divided into two parts, and pos- sessed by two families of the name of Dalrymple, who were pro- bably derived from a common progenitor. In 1371, John Ken- nedy of Dunure obtained a charter from Robert II. of half the ba- rony of " Dalrimpill," in Ayrshire, upon the resignation of Mal- colm, the son of Gilchrist, the son of Adam de " Dalrimpill ;** and in 1377, the same John Kennedy obtained another charter from Robert II. of the other half of the barony of " Dalrympill," upon the resignation of Hugh, the son of Roland de " Dalrympill," and the whole continued to belong to his descendants till the reign of Charles II. 1660-84. Land^owners. — The land-owners of the parish are the Marquis of Ailsa, who has in point of valuation more than the half ; R. A. Oswald of Auchencruive, Esq. who has nearly a fourth ; the Ho- nourable Mrs Leslie Gumming ; and Andrew Hunter of Bonnie- "ton, Esq. Skeldon and Hollybush are the only gentlemen's seats • in the parish. The former is the property of Mrs Leslie Gum- ming, and is occupied by Sir James Montgomery Guninghame of Gorsehill, Bart. ; the other is the property of Mr Hunter, and is occupied by Captain Brian Hodgson, R. N. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers of births and marriages, and the minutes of the kirk-session, commence in 1699, immediately after the ordination of Mr Lawrie. The register of deaths commences in 1739, and ends at 1793. A new volume, however, was begun in 1816. Including an heritors' book, there are eight volumes altogether, and the whole have been kept pretty regularly. Antiquities — Roman Road. — The line of a Roman road, sup- posed to have formed a communication between the Friths of Sol- way and Clyde, passes through this parish. Entering it at the eastern extremity, it passes through the farms of Polnessan, Smith- ston, Newfield, Boreland, Hollybush- Mains, and Causeway, which is supposed to have taken its name from this road. From Cause- way it goes on to the farm of Perclewan, and passing through this a,nd the farm of Lindston, it enters the parish of Ayr. Mr Chal- mers, in his Caledonia, mentions^ that ^^ some old people call this the Picts R.oad, and others, the Roman Way ;*' — " but the con- struction of the pavement in the Roman manner evinces clearly, he says, that it was a Roman Road." — " The Romans having such a road, he continues, must necessarily have had encamp- DALRYMPLE. 279 ments through which it passed, yet no Roman camp has yet been discovered in Ayrshire. Their trinkets have been found in various parts of this extensive shire. They had erected their villas along the fine shore of the Clyde Frith, from Kellyburn to Irvine ; and on this coast the remains of their baths have been discovered." Roman Vessels. — A tripod of Roman bronze, and understood to be one of those used by the priest in pouring libations on the sacrifice, or otherwise about the altar, was found in a drained part of Lindston Lioch, near the Roman road, about fifty years ago ; X and a pitcher of earthen- ware, like that represented in prints, in the hand of the woman of Samaria, at the well at Sychar, was found at Perclewan, on the line of the same road in 1833. Both have handles ; the tripod has also a spout, and the pitcher is glaz-* ed, and of a greenish colour, and has the figure of a man's face and hands on the front, in relief. British Fortlets. — On a ridge of a rising ground, about three miles in length, forming the boundary between the valley of Dal- rymple and the low road from Ayr to Maybole, are the remains of three British fortlets* They are all circular, and surrounded by trenches, and contain each about fifty falls of ground. The trenches were filled with a rich black mould, resembling moss* earth ; and on its being removed some years ago for the purpose of manure, human skulls, bones, and deers' horns were found. Coins, — About ten years ago, some silver coins were found in a grave in the church- yard here. Two of them, which came into the writer's possession, are of the reign of James I. of Scotland, (1424-36,) and apparently half-groats. The one is of the Edin- burgh mint, and the other was struck at Stirling. They bear on the obverse, within a rose, the head of the sovereign, crowned, full-faced, with the sceptre on the right. Legend, jacobus . dei • GRATIA . REX . scoTORUM. On the reverse, a cross with three pellets, and a fleur-de-lis alternately in the quarters. Legend, DOMINDS . PROTECTOR . MEUS . BT . LIBERATOR . ME US, and withip a dotted circle, the first, villa .-edinburgi, the other villa . STREVEVLI. There were also four silver pennies, of Edward L and III. of England, found in a ploughed field near the village in 1835. The largest has on one side, edw . r . angl . dns . hyb, and on the re- verse, civiTAS . LONDON. Two of them have on the reverse, ci- YiTAs . CANTOR, and the fourth, civitas. dureme.* • 'flic coins, Roman vessels, a spear found in Barbieston holm, and part of a di-cr** . 1 280 AYRSHIRE. Stone Coffin, S^c. — A stone coffin and bones were found in Bar- bieston holm, near the river Doon, and about a furlong to the east of Dalrymple village. In answer to inquiries on that subject, Mr Fullarton very kindly made the following communication : ^* About 1 804-5, 1 had bought the farm of Barbieston, and, wishing to make a new approach to my house at Skeldon, I set some men to work to form that road, in the course of which operation they had to cut though a small hillock of gravel. This proving of immediate use in making the road, was followed, and a considerable part re- moved, when suddenly the workers came on a stone coffin, in which was the skeleton of a large-sized person in a state of decay. On taking up the right thigh bone, I applied it to my own leg, as nearly as I possibly could to my hip-joint, and it went nearly to the middle of my shin, and I stand five feet eleven inches. From these circumstances, I was led to think that the bones must have belonged to some tall, powerful man, some chief or captain, par- ticularly as a battle is reported by HoUingshed, and also by Spot- tiswood, to have been fought at the ford of Barbieston." * Cairns of Stones. — In Barbieston holm,- and near the place where the stone coffin was found, there was a large cairn of stones ; and not far distant there were two others, one at St Valley, and an- other at Priest-hill. The whole, however, were removed in the course of the last thirty years, and among the stones were human and other bones, and some heads of pikes, spears, &c.f born found in the trench of one of the fortlets, are all in the custody of the writer uf this account at Dalrymple manse. * Extract from HolUogshed. He asserts that the r^ion of the Silures, or of Si- lurie, contains Kyle» Carrick, and Cunningham. He thinks Coil <* the same whom the Bryttans name Gutteline.**-— " Coil of Bryttaine assembling an armie, he cntred into the Scottish borders, lying towards the Irish seas, wasting with fire and sword whatsoever he found in his ways, till he came * even to the river of Dune/ where he encamped on the banks thereof.*"— From Spottiswood. l^his historian relates, that, in the year 960. Maximus, a Roman prefect, excited the Picts to enter into an al- liance with him against the Scots, and that the Romans and Picts encountered the Scots at the Water of Dun in Carrick. The Scots were routed, and their King, £u- gcnius, with most of his nobility, slain. — From Boethius, Scotorum liistoria. He relates that Coil was king of the Britons, Kenneth of the Scots. The latter, in con- junction with the Picts, attacked Coil, ** ad Dun« amnis ripam." The Scots made the attack in front, while the Picts came upon him from behind by night. " Coilus ipse, dum incautius a suis servaretur, oppressus, occubuit, loco nomen, Coilum, (nunc CoUl, mutato paulum Tocabulo dicunt) perpetuo ad postcros relinquens.'* — Bucha- nan, Rer. Scoticar. Hist. Lib. iv. C. iv. v. ** Igitur excrcitu quantum poterant coacto duo regcs biiariam Brittonum fines ingressi, agris ferro, flammaque late deformatts, cum ingenti praeda domum revertuntur. Ad earn injuriam vindicandam, Britto Scotorum fines ingressus, ad Dunum usque amnem penetravit," &c. t The following extract, from an historical and genealogical account of the princi- pal families of the name of Kennedy, from an original MS. (printed at Edinburgh, 1830,) may account for one of the cairns. The House of J>onour or Dunure.— ^ This houw remanit anc lang time, bot in anc sober estait, not hcfland na grit rent« DALllYMPLE. 281 Castles. — There were several old castles in the parish, Kerse, Skeldon, BarbiestoD, &c. Some stones of the old vaults in Bar- bieston were found, bearing the dates of 1340 and 1345. This castle was modernized about fifty years ago, and is now a comfort- able dwelling-house. A part only of Skeldon Castle Js in exist- ence, and like most ruined buildings, it has an echo. As to Kerse Castle, there is not one stone now left upon another, to point out where it was. The greatest part of it was used in the building of Skeldon House about sixty years ago, and the rest by the neigh- bouring farmers for various purposes.* Mills. — Of mills, there are at Perclewan, a meal-mill ; at Bar- bieston, a barley and flour-mill ; at Dalrymple village, a saw-mill ; and throughout the parish eighteen or twenty thrashing-mills, five or six of which are driven by water, and the rest by horses. At Nethermill, on the river Doon, there is a wooJIen manufactory, car- ried on by Mr William Templeton, a gentleman of great ingenu- ity and success, with respect to machinery. In the course of last year, Mr Templeton introduced gas light into his mill, which is of the greatest consequence and comfort to the workers. nor commandyment of the country. For we hear na gritt mcntioune maid of thaiin in Wallis dayis, nor the Bnids tyme. For at the Bamis of Air, the Laird of Cais- sillis was Sir Neil Montgomery ; quha, as we read in Wallace buik, was haogit in Air, be the deseitt of the Inglishmanne ; hot because that the Cronikil makis men- tioime beirof, I rest theiron. Bot the airis of this Sir Neill bruikit the landis of ("aissillis quhill the ring of Robert the Secund, the first of the Stewarts, at the whilk time the lairdis landis fell to ane lass. And the Laird of Dalrumpill, hir nyteboir, come to hir hous of Caissillis, and perseivit hir, be furse, to have hir in marrage ; the quhilk scho wold noch condiscend to, bot defendit the hous. And at this tyme, the l^aird of Donour that than was, he coming by, and perseiflSng the samin, set upon the Laird of Dalrumpill and slew him, and rclciflSt the lady, and tuik hir with him to his hous of Donour. Now the Laird of Dalrumpill being slanc as ye have hard, his landis lallis to his broder sonis amongis the quhilk, thair was gritt stryff ; but the youngest at last said his rycht to the Laird of Donour. And thane the Laird of Donour sett for the eldest, and slew him, littil abuiff the kirk of Dalrumpill ; quhair now, thair is ane gritt cairn of stanis to this day. And this was Dalrumpillis con- queist." * It may not be out of place to refer here to a poem composed by the late Sir Alex- ander Boswell, from a traditional story communicated to him by George Rankine of 'Wbitehill, Esq. to whom he dedicated it, and the date of the encounter he assigns to the fifteenth century. A few copies only were printed at the celebrated Auchln- leck prets, and circulated among his most intimate friends. Mr Pitcaim of Edin* burgh, who published in 1830, the historical account of the Kennedys, already re- ferred to, reprinted this poem in the appendix of that book. He says that two differ- ent versions of the story are traditionally current among some very aged people in Carrick. One of these is that which has been adopted by Sir Alexander BoswelL The other rehites, that three of the Crawfords of Lochnorris were present at the bat- tle, one of whom returned, heavily bemoaning the (all of his two brothers, when hia widowed mother suddenly cut short his lamentation by exclaiming, <* Is the sow flit- ted ? Aye is she, replied the youth, and five score of the Kennedies are drowned in the Doon.** In that part of the Doon which bounds Borcland farm in this parish, there is a ikx>1, called " Kcnnedie*s Pool," to this day, from the circumstance of their having t>ecn drowned there. 282 AYRSHIRE. IIL — Population. From the returns made to Dr Webster in 1755, it appears that the population of the parish at that time was 439 ; but when Mr Walker wrote his Statistical Account in 1791, the number of souls was only QSO. Since that period, however, the population has greatly increased, partly from the erection of the village of Dal- rymple, and partly from the^subdivision of the lands of Martinham, so that the number amounted In 1801, to 514 1811, 811 1821, 933 1831, 964 In June 1831, the number of persona under 15 years of age, was 387 betwixt 15 and 30, . . 238 30 50, . 197 50 70, . 105 upwards of 70, . . . 37 Of these, 703 IWc in the country, and 261 in the village of Dal rymple. llie number of families is . > . . .190 Of which are employed in agriculture, • • • . 88 Number of married men, 128 ; widowers, 9 ; and bachelors, upwards of 50 years of age, 11, . . . . * . .148 females who are widows, . . . • 23 unmarried, upwards of 45, • . - . 16 The average of births for the last eight years, from 1829 to 1836, . 32 marriages, ...... 9 deaths, . .... 14 CfiaracteTy S^c. — In a letter from Mr Campbell of Cumnock, who was upwards of twenty years schoolmaster of Dalrymple, he says, ^^ you will not &il I am sure to give the peaceful inhabitants of Dalrymple, that character for decency, sobriety, and orderly con- duct, to which they are so justly entitled." The writer of this Ac- count, after an eight years residence among them as their minis- ter, has great pleasure in bearing his humble testimony to Mr Campbell's statement. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of acres standard imperial measure in the parish may be about 6700 ; of which 4200 are arable ; 1900 consist of hill pasture and meadow ; 500 are under wood, and 100 under water. The rent of land in the valley of Dalrymple is from L. 2 to L. 4, 10s. per acre ; and the average of arable land through- out the parish is L. 1, ds. The principal crops raised are oats and wheat. The soils on which the wheat is generally sown, and where it grows to the greatest advantage, are the clean clay, properly fal- lowed ; the deep dry holm land, and the light sandy and gravelly soils after potatoes or turnips. If the ground be sufficiently dry, it is generally sown as soon as they are taken off the field ; if not, the sowing is deferred till the following spring. Wheat in most DALRYMPLE. 283 seasons grows best od fallow land, and when sown about the mid- dle of autumn. The kinds mostly used are the white, red, creep- ing and spring wheat. Oats are sown on every kind of soil capable of cultivation ; they grow best, however, on the clay and loam. A great variety are sown, among which may be mentioned the com- mon, the potato, the red, the gray, and the early and late Angus- shire. Barley, bear, potatoes, turnips, beans, pease, carrots, beet, cabbages, flax, && are grown mostly for family use. The following are the general rotations of crops : fifst year or lea crop, oats ; second year, green crop of potatoes, turnips, beans or pease ; third, wheat, oats, barley, or any white crop, and sow down with rye-grass, white, red, and yellow clover. Another system is, 1. oats ; 2. fal- low ; 3. wheat or any white crop, and sown down with rye-grass, &c Another, 1. oats; 2. fallow; 3. wheat or oats ; 4. beans or pease, and sow down ; or 5. a white crop and sow down. Another, 1. oats, with manure on the surface, previous to ploughing ; 2. oats and sow down. Another, manure the surface ; take three white crops in succession, and sow down. The general method of fallowing land in this parish is to plough it as lightly as possible, early in winter ; to cross plough it with a deep furrow in May or June, and to give two ploughings more, in the coui'se of the summer. These, with the necessary harrowing, draining, rolling, manuring, &c. make it ready for the seed, which is usually sown in September or October. Rate of Wages. — Farm-servants get from L. 10 to L. 16 per an- num, besides a free house and garden, two pecks of oatmeal, and two of potatoes a-week, and their coals led; women get from 'L. 5 to L. 8, with board and lodging ; labourers from Is. to Is. 6d. with, and from Is. 6d. to 2s. without victuals ; cartwrights, from Is. 6d. to Is. 9d. with victuals. Blacksmiths either charge a cer- tain sum for each piece of work, or agree with the farmers at so much a-year. Cheese, — There are, at an average, about 3600 stones of sweet milk cheese annually made in the parish ; of which a great part are sold to retail-dealers , the rest to families in Ayr, Maybole, and throughout the neighbourhood, and part kept for home consump* tion. What is sold to the families is generally coloured, and, tov the most part, shaped like the Cheshire and Stilton cheeses. The average price per stone for the last eight years was 8s. 6d. Amount of raw produce. — The average amount of raw produqe^ raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows ; L.6400 1700 2000 1760 800 L. 13,260 "o 284 AYRSHIRE. Ofgrairiy .... Of potatoes and tumipsi Of hay and hay^seed, . • Of land in patture» Of miscellaneous produce, including a nursery garden, The general duration of leases is nineteen years, a period far too limited to promote the improvemem of agriculture, and the hap- piness and welfare of the &rmer. V. — Parochial Economy. Village. — Dalrymple is the only village in th^ parish, and is si- tuated on the river Doon, about half way between Ayr and May- bole. It formerly consisted of a few thatched cottages huddled together round the churchyard ; but about the beginning of this century, the Marquis of Ailsa granted feus in a more eligible situa- tion, and in a short time the present neat village, which is much ad- mired by every stranger, was erected. A carrier from the village goes to Ayr every Tuesday and Friday, and returns on the same days ; and as there is no post-office in the parish, he carries also letters and newspapers. Means of Communication* — The London, Edinburgh, and Glas* gow mail-coaches to and from Ireland pass every evening, about half-past nine or ten, within a mile and a-half of the village ; and during a great part of the year, the Ayr and Dumfries stage-coach goes on one day and returns on the next, for several miles, through the upper part of the parish. Ecclesiastical State. — " Of the more early history of the church of Dalrymple," says Mr Chalmers in his Caledonia, " research has found nothing. • When James IV. re-established the chapel-royal of Stirling in the beginning of the sixteenth century, he annexed to it the church of Dalrymple, the revenues whereof formed one of the prebends of that chapel. The cure of the church was in the meantime held by a curate. The patronage of the prebend of Dalrymple belonged to the King ; and even after the church ceased to be connected with the chapel- royal, the King continued the patron of the same church." — The present church is pleasant- ly situated on the river Doon, at the south-west extremity of the parish. It is near the village, but by no means convenient for the families in the upper part of the parish, as they are distant from it from four to six miles. It was rebuilt on the old foundation in a very superficial manner in 1764, and as it is, besides, by far too small for the population, it is to be hoped that the land-owners DALRYMPLE. 285 ifvill in a short time build a new church. Divine service is in ge- neral well attended. The Lord's supper is dispensed once a-year, and the average number of communicants is 350. The number of persons^ male heads of femilies, who have the right of exercis- ing the veto, amounts at present to 127. There is no other place of worship but the parish church ; and, with the exception of four or five Dissenters who came from other parishes, the parishioners adhere to the Establishment Tent-preaching is still kept up here on the sacramental Sabbaths. In one of the session records, of date 6th June 1808, after mention is made that the sacraments was dispensed according to appointment, the following is added : ^^ It deserves to be remarked, that there was no sermon at the tent at all on this occasion, — a thing that has not occurred in this parish, as far as we know, in the memory of any living." Manse, Glebe, ^c, — The manse was built about the end of last century, and a very neat addition was made to it in 1832. The glebe consists of 4 acres, and is worth L» 10 per annum. It appears from a minute of the Presbytery of Ayr in September 1701, that the Kirk-hill, consisting of 14 acres, which lets at pre- sent for upwards of L. 30, was designed as a grass-glebe to the minister ; but, from some unknown circumstance, the ground thus designed is now the property of the Marquis of Ailsa. The sti- pend is 15 chalders, half meal and half barley, besides L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements, and L. 1, 10s. 4d. as an allowance for a grass-glebe. The average price of a chalder to the clergy in this county for the last seven years, viz. from 1829 to 1835 (for the fiars for crop and year 1836 are not yet struck,) was L. 14, 13s. 3d. Ministers iff Dalrymple. — The first Presbyterian minister of Dalrymple, as far 'as can be ascertained from the records of the Presbytery of Ayr, which go back to 1642, was Mr Robert Spreule, who was also Presbytery clerk. How long he was settled before that date, and how long he continued, and whether he had any immediate successor, is unknown, as some of the records of those troublous times are either lost, or were never in existence. In 1694, Mr James Gilchrist was ordained and admitted minister of Dalrymple; in 1699, Mr James Laurie; in 1727, Mr John Adams, who was translated to Falkirk in 1744; in 1745, Mr Samuel Wal- ker; in 1754, Mr Ebenezer Walker, brother of the former; in 1798, Mr Robert Steven, minister of Catrine chapel, was admitted; and on the 19th of February 1829, the present incumbent, Mr Robert Wallace, was ordained and admitted. l! 286 AYRSHIRE. Educations—There are two schools; the parochial, which is si- tuated in the village ; and Hollybush school, about the centre of the parish. The branches taught at these schools are English reading and grammar, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, Latin, Greek, French, geography, mathematics, &c. The parochial schoolmaster's salary is L. 90, which, with school-fees, L. 25, and L. 8 in compensation for a house and garden, and perquisites from his office as session-clerk, make his income from L. 60 to L. 70. The teacher of Hollybush school has a free school and dwell- #ing-house, and a good garden from Mr Hunter, the proprietor of Hollybush. The average number of scholars at the parochial school is 60; and at Hollybush school, 45; and both schools are very well conducted. The parochial schooUhouse was formerly at St Valley, a little to the north-east of the village, and now forms part of a farm-steading. * Societies. — Of societies, there are a Friendly Society, a Musical Society, a Burns's club, and a curling, club. The Friendly Society, or, as it is termed, ^^ the Dalrymple Friendly Society," was insti- tuted in 1807. According to the articles of this Society, the num- ber of members must be sixty ; and if, by the providence of Al- mighty God, any member be disabled from work, by sickness or any evident misfortune, and- judged so by the visiting master, he, without any regard to his circumstances, shall receive the. sum of 6s. per week when confined within doors, and when able to walk about shall receive 4s. per week ; and when any member dies, the surviving members are obliged to contribute each the sum of Is. towards defraying funeral expenses, — to attend the funeral, if de- sired, — and if there be' no relations, the preses is to act as chief mourner. In 1836, a General Agricultural Association for Ayrshire was instituted at Ayr, and the minister and several of the fiumers of this parish are members of the association. Savings Bank, — In May 1831, a savings bank was established in May bole for it and the neighbouring parishes, and, with the ex- ception of Maybole, this parish, it seems, has contributed more than any of the rest In the course of that time, there have been * It is to this school that Mr Lockhart, the talented biographer of Bums, alludes in his life of the poet. ** When Burns,** says he, **■ was about thirteen or fourteen years old, his father sent him and Gilbert, week about, during a summer quarter, to the parish school of Dalrymple, two or three miles distant from Mount 01iphant,for the improvement of their penmanship. The good old man could not pay two fees, or his boys could not be spared at the same time from the labour of the farm." 4 DALHYMPLE. 287 63 contributors irom this parish alone, 36 males and 27 females^ principally composed, the former of tradesmen and servants, and the latter of sewers and servants. The average amount yearly in- vested is L. 73, and the amount withdrawn L. 41. This bank has had the tendency to give most of the contributors industrious and provident habits. Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are at present 12 persons regularly receiving parochisA aid ; and the average sum allotted to each is 6s. 6d. per month ; there are several also who are supplied occasionally according to their necessities ; and three orphans who • * _ are maintained from the parochial funds. The annual amount of contributions for their relief is about L. 70, of which from L. 30 to L. 40 arise from church collections, the income from a mortcloth, &c. ; and the rest is obtained from the landed proprietors. Alehouses. — There are two alehouses in the parish, — one in the village, and the other on the road from Ayr to Dalmellingfon, and about halfway from both places. Fuel. — The fuel generally used is coal, brought from the pa- rishes of Stair, Coylton, Straiten, and Dalmellington. The dis- tance of the nearest coal-pit from Dalrymple village is five miles ; and a ton of coals, including carriage and tolls, costs 13s. Miscellaneous Observations. In the former Statistical Account of Dalrymple, Mr Walker men- tions that " the lower part of the parish is surrounded by little green hills." These hills are now for the most part fruitful fields, and yield luxuriant crops of oats, wheat, &c. ; the remainder is covered with thriving plantations of all the trees common to this country. When the former Account was written, there was no wheat grown in the parish. This is now, in the lower part, about one-third of the grain crop. The fences, which consisted formerly of large unshapen stones gathered from the fields, are now in a great mea- sure superseded by hedges of thorn, beech, and privet, which, with clumps of plantations scattered throughout the parish, give it a much more clothed and interesting appearance, and are, moreover, highly beneficial in afibrding shelter to the cattle in wet and stormy weather. Of upwards of thirty farm-houses and steadings, about one- half have been erected in the course of this century, with con- siderable taste, and at the same time for the comfort and conve- nience of the tenants. They are built of rubble stone, slated, and 288 AYRSHIRE. rou^h-cast, with lime» sand, and gravel. They have each, too, a thrashing-mill, driven either by water or horses. In the course of this century, that part of the barony of Mar« tinham in this parish, consisting of about 500 acres, (formerly let as a grazing-farm, but without either a house or a residenter on it,) has been subdivided into several &rms, and has now eleven dwelling-houses, inhabited by upwards of seventy souls. With the improvements in the parish, the rental has also kept pace, having, in the course of thirty years, been more than tripled. In 1792, it amounted to L. 1670 Sterling; in 1807, to L. 3525 ; and in 1822, to L. 5192. In 1736, the number of births was 13 ; in 1786, 12 ; and in 1836, 35. In 1736, the collections at church amounted to L. 7 ; in 1786, to L. 12 ; and in 1836 to L. 30. The line of the projected railway from Ayr to Girvan passes through the southern part of this parish. September 1837. PARISH OF DUNLOP, PRESBYTERY OF IRVINE, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. MATTHEW DICKIE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name of this parish is supposed to be derived from two Gaelic words, dun, a fortified height, and luiby a wind- ing, as of a stream. According to local tradition, the Castle of Dunlop stood in ancient times on the top of a small eminence^ (still called Dunlop Hill,) near the church. As the stream which passes Dunlop winds round the base of this hill, a castle so si- tuated might have been appropriately called dun^luib, or the forti- fied hill at the winding ; and it has been conjectured, that the name of this baronial residence was afterwards given to the church, and the parochial district annexed to it. Extent^ Boundaries, Sfc. — This parish is of an oblong form. Its extreme length from S. W. to N. E. is about 7 miles, and its ge- neral breadth nearly 2 miles. At the southern and northern extre- mities it becomes much narrower, being for about a mile of length 8 DUNLOP. 289 at each end, scarcely half a mile broad. It contains about 10^ square miles of surface. It is bounded on the N. by Neilston ; on the N. W. by Beith ; on the S. and S. E. by Stewarton. The greater part of it lies in the district of Gunninghame and county of Ayr, but on the N. it extends into Renfrewshire. It has been alleged that these lands in Renfrewshire, extending to about 1000 imperial acres, are connected with Dunlop only quoad sacraj and that, quoad civilian they belong to the parish of Neilston. It has never been clearly ascertained whether this is the case or not ; but the circumstance of their having paid all parish burdens to Dunlop from time immemorial, seems to lead to a different conclusion. Topographical Appearances, — Though the whole parish is con* siderably above the level of the sea,* the ground nowhere rises into any eminence that deserves the name of a hill, much less of a mountain. Perhaps no height in the parish has an elevation of more than 150 feet above the adjacent hollow. The surface of the greater part of it is gently undulating. It rises with a gradual slope from S. W. to N. £., where it attains its greatest elevation in the small hills of Craignaught and Knockmead. In the neigh- bourhood of the church, the surface is very uneven, a number of low hills, or more properly knolls, being there crowded together in a very irregular manner : and in many other places, while the low ridges between the streamlets that intersect the parish, slope upward on one side with a gentle ascent, they terminate abruptly on the other, in steep grassy banks or precipitous rocks. The aspect of the country would be much improved by additional plan- tations. Those already existing, are chiefly on those parts of the estates of Dunlop and Caldwell which lie on the confines of the parish, so that in the central parts, though almost every farm- house has some trees about it, there is not enough of wood to give the country a sheltered appearance. From its comparatively ele- vated situation, this parish from many points commands a very rich and varied prospect. From Brackenheugh, about a mile to the south of the church, the view is particularly grand. The highly cultivated and richly wooded district, lying between Dunlop and the sea, seems spread out like a map ; the shores of the Frith of Clyde, from Ardrossan to the Cairn of Lochryan, with its va- rious bays and headlands, are distinctly seen, while the mountains * The church of Dunlop is computed to be about 350 feet above the level of the sea, and Knockmead Hill, the highest point in the parish, about 560. AYR. T 290 AYRSHIRE. of Arran, with Ailsa Craig and the hills of Ireland, form the back- ground of the scene. ' The temperature of Dunlop is somewhat colder than that of the lower parts of the county. This is to be ascribed in part to its height above the sea, but chiefly to the wetness of the soil in many places, and the want of wood. If the land was thoroughly drained, and properly sheltered by plantations, it is thought that this evil might in a great measure be got rid of. Persons well qualified to judge are of opinion, that the draining already effected has done much good in this respect. It is supposed to be owing to this, that early autumnal frosts, which were at one time common and very hurtful, are now little known. The climate of Dunlop is justly considered very healthy. There is no endemical disease in the parish, and it has seldom suffered much from the epidemics which, from time to time, have prevailed in neighbouring districts. The people in general enjoy excellent health, and many of them live to a good old age. At present there are nine persons upwards of eighty years of age. Two of these are above ninety. Hydrography, — Dunlop abounds with springs of excellent wat«r. They are all perennial. None of them deserve particular notice, on account either of the quantity or quality of their water. There is now no lake in the parish, Halket Loch, (extending to about nine or ten acres,) which was the only one, having been drained a few years ago, at the joint expense of the proprietors whose lands border on it. It is now an excellent meadow. The draining of this loch has had the effect of completely preventing the mildew, from which the crops immediately around it formerly suffered much. The principal stream connected with the parish is the Lugton. It rises out of Loch Libo in Renfrewshire, and, after a course of about fifteen miles in a south west direction, joins the Gamock near Kilwinning. It separates Dunlop from Beith. Corsehill burn separates Dunlop from Stewarton. The Glazert, which is joined by a few very small rivulets, drains the centre of the parish, divid- ing it into two nearly equal parts. After a course of about ten or eleven miles, it &lls into the Annack, which is tributary to the Irvine. It passes close to the church and village. All these streams are very inconsiderable, affording scarcely water enough to drive the corn-mills erected on them. Geology and Minei'alogy. — The prevailing rocks are claystone. DUNLOP. 291 passing into claystone-porphyry and amygdaloid, with subordinate masses of greenstone and basalt. These rocks often jut through the surface, sometimes forming precipices of considerable height, but though many quarries have been opened where they are thus exposed, they have not been wrought to such an extent as to show their general direction and inclination. Where they break through the surface they are often much disintegrated, and are generally a confused mass, destitute of regular stratification. The irregular seams and fissures running through them, all lie in a direction ap- proaching to vertical. At Craighead, near the centre of the parish, is a bed of greenstone, composed of seams of different thicknesses, which supplies excellent building stones. The depth and extent of it have not been ascertained. At Templehouse, near the vil- lage, and a few other places, greenstone of good quality is also met with. Columnar basalt occurs at Lochridgehills. The co- lumns, as far as they have been laid bare by the working of a quarry at the place, are about 1 8 feet in height, and 20 inches in thickness. They are generally pentagonal, and somewhat curved. Next to these rocks, limestone is the most abundant. At Laigh Gameshill it has long been quarried. This bed is in some places about 16 feet thick, and of excellent quality. In other places it is of much less value, being thinner, and having many layers of indurated clay interspersed. Another bed of limestone appears at intervals in the farms of Bourock, East and West Wa- terland, on the banks of the Lugton. Very little use has yet been made of it Connected with this limestone, freestone and coal are found. They are still almost untouched. A short time ago, a few carts of coals were taken out, but they were found ' to be of such inferior quality as not to be worth the expense of extracting them. It is not known whether the sandstone and coal are co- extensive with the limestone. Besides these two principal beds of limestone, there are less extensive masses of it in various other places. It everywhere abounds with petrified shells. The soil incumbent on all these rocks is generally of a dayey retentive nature, but very productive, especially in grass, when properly drained. In a few places, in the southern division of the parish, it is loamy, and in the higher grounds patches of moss occur here and there. Zoology. — Of quadrupeds, the hare, wild rabbit, weasel, and mole are common. Roe-deer have for some years past frequented 292 AYRSHIRE. the woods io the neighbourhood of Caldwell. It is supposed that their number does not exceed eight or nine. The fox has nearly disappeared, though it is still occasionally seen. The following birds are found in great numbers : blackbird, thrush, bullfinch, lark, curlew, grey and green linnet, rail, and partridge. The pheasant, missel-thrush, goldfinch, heron, wild- dupk, teal, and snipe, are to be met with, but they cire not nume- rous. The starling, which a few years ago was almost unknown, is now very common. In the Lugton, pike and trout abound, and the other small streams are well stored with burn trouts. The Glazert is said to have produced char in former times, but they are not now found in it 11. — Civil History. Accounts of the Parish. — In Robertson's topographical descrip- tion of Cunninghame, a short account is given of the parish of Dunlop. The author's attention is chiefly directed to family his- tory. A series of maps of the different parishes in Cunninghame was published a few years ago by Mr Aitken, land-surveyor, Beith. These maps are supposed to be very correct. Eminent Characters, — Several persons who have highly distin- guished themselves have been connected with this parish by birth or residence. The learned John Major or Mair, the instructor of Knox, while Professor of Theology at Glasgow, was also vicar of Dunlop, in which character it may be supposed he was at least occasionally resident in the parish. * James Hamilton, Viscount Clandeboyes, eldest son of Hans Hamilton, Vicar of Dunlop, by his talents and success, reflects honour on his native parish. He was sent to Ireland by James VI. in the year 1587, along with James FuUarton, to keep up £L correspondence with the Protestants of that kingdom, and communicate intelligence from time to time as to the designs of the Irish, in the event of Queen Elizabeth's death. The better to conceal their design, they opened a school in Dublin for the education of Protestant youth. After teaching privately for se- * His connection with this parish is shewn by the following extracts from the Old Register, entitled, << Annides Universitatis Glasguensis.** Under date Sd No- vember 1518, there is the following entry, ** Eodem die, inoorporati sub dicto Dno Rectore, Egregius vir, Mag. Johannes Majoris, Doctor Parisiensis ac principalis regens Collegie et padagogii dicte Universitatis, Canonicuaque Capelli reffie, ac vi- carloB de Dunlop,'* &c. Under date 24th May 1522, he is designed **> TheoTpgie pro- fessori thesaurarius Capelle regie StriTilingensis, Vicariusque de Dunlop.** — M*Cric*8 Life of Knox, Vol. i. p. 340, 34K DUNLOP. 293 veral years, they were appointed to fellowships in Trinity Col- lege, then newly founded, and by their talents contributed much to establish the high character which it soon acquired. After the accession of James to the throne of England, James Hamilton, who had discharged his mission to the satisfaction of the King, was rewarded by extensive grants of forfeited lands in the county of Down and elsewhere ; and after being employed in several im- portant services, was at length, in 1622, elevated to the peerage, by the title of Viscount Clandeboyes and Baron Hamilton. This title became extinct on the death of his grandson, Henry, Earl of Clanbrassil.* Lord Clandeboyes' five brothers having followed him to Ireland, shared his good fortune. Their numerous descendants, the Ha- miltons of Down, Armagh, Dublin, and Carlow, with their various collateral branches, are still possessed of great wealth and influ- ence. From them are descended the noble families of Clanbras- sil, Roden, Massareene and Dufferin. The first of these titles having become extinct through the feilure of heirs in the eldest branch of Hans. Hamilton's family, was granted to one of the de- scendants of a younger son, but has again become extinct Archi- bald Hamilton Rowan, so well known from his connection with the last Irish rebellion, was the lineal descendant of Hans Hamilton's second son, Archibald. James Dunlop of that Ilk, and Alexander Dunlop, his son, are deserving of notice as warm supporters of the Presbyterian cause in the reign of Charles II. Their opposition to the oppressive measures of the government, was severely punished by fines and imprisonment -f* In later times, several members of this family have been highly distinguished in the profession of arms, particularly Lieut.- Gene- ral James Dunlop, the last laird. His mother is well known as * the early friend and correspondent of Burns. Land'Owners.'^The chief land-owners, in the order of their valued rents, are, William Mure, Esq. of Caldwell, John Dunlop, Esq. of Dunlop, M. P., Richard Trotter, Esq. of Hapland, An- drew Brown, Esq. of Hill, and Col. M^Alester of Kennox. Parochial Registers, — The register of proclamations commences in 1700, and that of baptisms in 1701. With the exception of two or three short intervals, they have been kept with extreme in- * Andenon'i History of the House of Hamilton, t Wodrow*8 History, i. 280. ii. 309, 373. foL ed. 294 AYRSHIRE. accuracy till the year 1780, when the late minister entered on the chaise of the parish. Since that time they have been kept with great regularity. Antiquities. — The antiquities of Dunlop are not numerous. A few years ago, the ruins of a chapel, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, were removed. They stood at a place called Chapelhouse, about half a mile from the village. Whether this was the parish church before the Reformation, as is conjectured in the former Statisti- cal Account, or a chapel distinct from it, as stated in- Chalmers' Caledonia, is now uncertain. In a field in the neighbourhood, is a large detached stone, round which, if tradition is to be believed^ it was customary for persons attending at the chapel to perform part of their devotions. It is called the ^^ ThugoTtstane,^^ sup- posed to be a corruption of ^^ the grit stcme" Dunlop House is another relic of former times, which has now disappeared. It was taken down about three years ago, to make way for the splendid new mansion which its proprietor is now erecting. It is thus described in Font's Cunninghame Topogra- phized. ^^ Dunlopp, ane ancient stronghouse, fortified vith a deipe foussie of watter, and planted with goodly orchards. — It belongs to James Dunloppe of that same, and chiefie of his name." It is uncertain when the original square tower, part of which remained till the whole building was removed, was erected. One of the more modem additions bore the date of 1599. Aiket Castle, about a mile south from the church, is now the oldest building in the parish. The date of its erection is not ex- actly known ; but as a considerable branch of the family of Cun- ninghame possessed the property of which it was the mansion, for some centuries preceding 1700, about which time it passed into other hands, we may assign to it a very respectable antiquity. It consisted originally of a square tower, vaulted on the ground floor, and four or five' storeys high. To this had been added at a later date some lower buildings. The appearance of the whole has been very much altered, by reducing the tower to the level of the annexed buildings. It is still inhabited. The only other building that has any claim to antiquity, is a small vaulted chamber in the churchyard^ in which Hans Hamil- ton, the minister of Dunlop, already mentioned, and his wife, are buried. There is a very accurate description of it given in the former Statistical Account of the parish. Modem Buildings. — Dunlop House is the only modern building DUN LOP. 295 that deserves particular notice. It is a magnificent mansion in the old English style. The design was furnished by Mr Hamil- ton of Glasgow. It stands in a beautifully sequestered situation, on the banks of the small stream which separates this parish from Stewarton. III. — Population. Population according to Dr Webster in . 1755, 796 last Statistical Account, in 1791, . 779 Government census in 1801 , 806 1811, . 990 1821, • 1029 ) 514 males. 1831, 1040 V 3 526 females. The popu ation in the month of August 1835 was 1 157, of whom 572 were males, and 585 females. The demand for la- bourers in consequence of agricultural improvements, is the chief cause of the increase of population which has so long been going on steadily. During last summer, the building of Dunlop House and the church, also caused a temporary increase of the population. Number af the present population residing in the Tillage, . 284 in the country, 873 * Yearly average of births for the last seven years, - - 33^ *of marriages, ... 9^ Number of persons under 15 years of age, « - 425 betwixt 15 and 30, - . 357 30 and 50, - - 221 50 and 70, - . 120 upwards of 70, - - - 34 1157 Number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers above 50, > 25 . unmarried women above 45^ • • •> 48 Number of fiimilies, ...... 222 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 134 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 45 Number of fatuous persons, 2 insane. 1 blind. I houses inhabited, 183 uninhabited. buildingy 3 One family of independent fortune resides in the parish. The number of proprietors of land, of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, is 37, of whom 23 are resident The total number of heritors is 54. * As the registration of births is scarcely ever neglected here, the statement with regard to their average number may be considered very nearly correct. — It often happens that only one of the parties proclaimed resides in the parish. In the above estimate, two such proclanuitions are considered equivalent to one marriage. — As no register of deaths is kept, their number cannot be exactly stated. The yearly rate of mortality for the three years and a half, during which the writer has resided in Dunlop, is 22. This is probably somewhat less than the average of a longer period would be, as there has till lately been comparatively little sickness in the parish. 296 AYRSHIRE. This miDute division of property is not of recent date. From an old manuscript valuation of Cunninghame, in the possession of John Dunlop, Esq. of Dunlop, it appears that in 1640, the time when it was drawn up, there were thirty-three heritors in the pa^ rish. The property of eight of these is still possessed by their de- scendants ; that of the rest has passed into other hands. Of the present heritors, several are the representatives of families that have jpossessed the properties they now hold from a remote period. Family ofDmlop. — The family of Dunlop of that Ilk can be traced back to the year 1260, in which year Dom. William de Dunlop is incidentally mentioned, in connection with an inquest respecting certain lands in litigation between Dom. Godfrey de Ross and the burgh of Irvine. The deed is in the charter-diest of Irvine. In the Ragman Roll, Neill Fitz Robert de Dunl(^ who is supposed by Nisbet to be an ancestor of this family, is men- tioned as one of the barons who swore fealty to Edward I. of Eng- land in 1296. Since that early period, this family has held the estate of Dunlop up to the 'present time, with the exception of a short period about the end of the fourteenth and beginning of the fifteenth centuries, when it was forfeited on account, as has been conjectured, of the part its representative took in the contest be- tween Bruce and Baliol for the Scottish crown. — (Nisbet's Heral- dry, Vol. ii. and Robertson's Description of Cunninghame.) Family ofGemmil of Templehouse, — The family of Gemmil of Templehouse is also of old standing in this parish. From Pitcaim's Criminal Trials, it appears that on the 4th of November 1570, Patrik Gemmil of Tempilhouse was one of a jury on the trial of <^ William Cunninghame of Aiket, William Fergushill, Florence Crawfurd, and John Raeburn of that Ilk, delatit of the slauchter of umql. Johnne Mure of Cauldwell.'* The property of this fiimily has always been small. Other Families. — The families of Anderson of Broadlee, Brown of Hill, as representative of the Andersons of Craighead, and the Dunlops of Hill and Boreland, as well as some others, are of more than two centuries standing. Character of the People.'^lt is believed that the people gene- rally enjoy in a reasonable degree the comforts as well as the necessaries of life. Where labourers have made early and im- provident marriages, their circumstances may not in some in- stances be so prosperous as could be wished ; but as they have good wages and abundant employment, any thing like destitu- DUNLOP. 297 tion among them is unknown. There are no indications of their being discontented with their situation. They are distinguished for shrewdness in managing their affairs, as well as for persevering industry ; and as they generally retain the frugal habits of the olden time, many of them have prospered in their worldly circum- stances. Though not much given to reading, they have almost all a small collection of books, chiefly m divinity. As in other places, there are some persons addicted to intemperance, and the other grosser vices, but in general they are sober and moral in their habits. They are commendably regular in their attendance on di- vine ordinances. Family worship, it is alleged, is more neglected than in former times, but is still kept up in a considerable proper^ tion of families. Though the killing of game without a license is not looked on as a very heinous offence, especially if the per- mission of the proprietor on whose land it is found has been ob- tained, poaching is little practised. Smuggling is altogether un- known. During the last three years there have been 4 illegitimate births. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Mural Economy. — According to the information received from the different fiirmers as to the extent of their re- spective holdings, it appears that the parish contains 6554 impe- rial acres. This estimate can be considered only as a near ap- proach to the truth, several of the properties not being measured. The land may be thus divided : Caltivated or occasionally in tillage, . 5834 imperial acres. ( Natural pasture, • m 311 Uncultivated, < Meadow, - 248 C M06S, • 30 Under wood (planted,) - 131 6554 With the exception of moss, which would not repay the expense of improvement, and meadow, which is more valuable in its present state than if it was brought into tillage, almost all the uncultivated land consists of steep banks where the plough could not be used, so that probably not more than 40 acres of it could be cultivated with profit There is no natural wood. The kinds of trees plant* ed are, larch, Scotch fir, ash, elm, beech, and plane. The management of the plantations on some of the larger estates is good, pruning and thinning, as well as draining and fbn- cing, being carefully attended to. This cannot be said of the ma- nagement on many of the smaller properties. The plantations on 298 AYRSHIRE. these are generally narrow belts immediately around the farm- houses. From a wish to get as much shelter as possible, with a small sacrifice of ground, the trees are often allowed to grow up in so crowded a state, that they soon choke each other. There are few trees of great age or size in the parish. The largest is a plane tree on the &rm of Laigh Gameshill. It measures 13 feet 10 inches in circumference at the height of three feet from the ground. Rent of Land. — The rent of land cannot be exactly ascertained, as more tl^an 1600 acres are in the natural possession of the owners. The average rent of that occupied by tenants, which being of various qualities, may be considered a fair average of the whole, is L.1, 4s. per imperial acre. The uncultivat- ed land is, on an average, equal in value to that under tillage, for though the natural pasture and moss are worth less, the mea- dows are worth more. According to this estimate, the rental of the parish, if all was in lease, would be L. 7864, 16s. The valued rent is L. 4115, 17s. 6d. Scots. The average rent of grazing for the summer is, for a milch cow, L. 4, 10s. ; for a cow or ox fattening, L. 8, 10s. ; for young cattle 6( different ages, L. 1, 10s. each on the average. The grass of a eWe or full-grown sheep for the year costs 15s. Rate of fVoffeSj Prices^ Sfc. — The rate of wages of farm*labour- ers and country artisans varies a little at different times, and ac- cording to the qualifications of the persons hired, but for several years it has been nearly as follows : man-servant for the year, with board and lodging, L. 16; maid-servant, do. do. L. 8; labourers, per day, with victuals, in summer, 2s« ; in winter, Is. 8d. ; in har- vest, 2s. 6d. to 3s. ; females for field-work, per day, with victuals, in summer. Is.; in harvest. Is. 6d. to 2s.; tailor, per day, with victuals. Is. lOd. ; mason and carpenter, in summer, 2s. 6d. ; in winter, 2s. Several kinds of work are occasionally done by the piece. The following is a list of the prices usually paid : building ruble wall, per rood, exclusive of material, L. 1, 10s. ; plastering per yard, do. 8d. ; building dry stone dikes, per fall, dc. Is. lOd. to 2s. ; mow- ing meadow hay, per acre, 3s. to 3s. 6d. ; mowing rye-grass hay per acre, 2s. 6d. to 2s. 9d. ; reaping oats per acre, 9s. 6d. to 10s. 6d.; ploughing, harrowing, and sowing per acre, L. 1, Is. Live-stock. — The cattle kept in the parish are of the Ayrshire breed. Great attention has long been paid to their improvement. DUNLOP. 299 and perhaps nowhere is the stock more select. Some persons, en- ticed by the high prices given for fine animals, have been too much in the habit of selling the best of their young stock, but the prac- tice is far from being common. Clydesdale horses, mostly of a light description, are generally used. They are almost all bought in, very few being reared. The few sheep that are kept are of the Leicester breed. The quantity of stock in the summer of 1 835, after very minute inquiry, was found to be as follows: 178 horses, including 20 young horses; 910 milch cows; 111 cows or oxen fattening; 415 young cattle of different ages; 109 sheep; 258 pigs. Husbandry. — Oats is the grain chiefly cultivated. Almost every farmer raises barley or bear for the use of his own family, but little, if any, for sale. A few acres of wheat have for some time past been sown every year, but the success of the experiment has not been so great as to cause the cultivation of it to extend much. The land being in most places retentive of moisture, turnips are not grown tp.apy grofi^t extent; and the quantity of potatoes rais- ed, except on a few $M^ms, is not much greater than is necessary for home consumption. The mode of cropping followed iA this parish, does not coincide with any of the rotations now recommended by writers on agricul- ture. When lea is broken up, three crops of oats in succession are generally taken from it With the last crop, rye-grass is sown, most frequently without clover. The rye-grass is often allowed to ripen its seed, for the purpose of being threshed, and is thus near- ly as scourging to the land as an additional com crop. The ground is then allowed to lie in pasture for at least four or five, and some- times even for ten or twelve years, when the same course of crop- ping is again repeated. Potatoes and turnips, so far as the cul- tivation of them extends, take the place of the second crop of oats, and on a part of the ground which has borne potatoes, the wheat and barley that are raised, are sown. In some instances, only two crops of oats are taken, and this practice is gradually ex- tending. In these cases, a small field is sometimes set apart for rais- ing potatoes, turnips, barley, &c« which do not come into the ordi- nary rotation of the farm. This system of management, it may be thoXight, must tend greatly to impoverish the soil ; but, owing part- ly to its natural fertility, and partly to the pains taken to keep it in good heart, by liming and top-dressing, it is not found to sufler from it. It is a very common practice to top dress the ground with dung, 300 AYUSHIRE. soon after it has been laid down in grass, and again to lime it a year or two before it is to be ploughed up* The reason why this system of cropping, which has long since been given up in the more improved districts of the country, is persevered in here, is, that the cultivation of green crops is thought to hurt the pasture, on which the farmer places his chief dependence. It is customary here to plough with three horses. In defence of this practice, it is alleged that as much additional work is done by using three instead of two, as fully to cover the extra expense. This is very doubtful. The dairy has long been the chief object of attention in Dun- lop. Dunlop cheese has justly obtained a very high character. The cheese made here, as well as in other parts of the country, was made of skimmed milk, till about the end of the seventeenth century, when one Barbara Gilmour,* introduced the practice of using the whole milk. This practice for a time was confined to this parish and its immediate neighbourhood, but it has gradually extended to almost every part of the west and south of Scotland. All the cheese made in these districts, with unskimmed milk, still goes under the general name of Dunlop^ that being the name by which cheese of this quality was originally known. It is not now pretended that what is made here is superior to that of other places, but it is nowhere excelled. The average quantity made during the season firom each cow's milk is about 27 stones of 14 lbs. avoirdupois, or 24,570 stones from the whole parish. In some small dairies, each cow has been known to produce on an average 42 stones. A good many calves are reared every year, a part of which are kept to uphold the original stock, and the rest sold when two or three years old. Pigs are now also a source of some profit to the farmer, being kept in crty-five years. He must therefore have entered on this charge in 1563. In the ^^ register of ministers, exhorters, and readers, and of their stipends after the period of the R€drormation,**]ate]y published by the Maitland Club, there is the following entry with regard to Dunlop : *' John Hamilton, vicar and ex. horter, the thryd of the vicarage extending to xxvL IL providing he wait on his charge beltym 1567." The only way I know of reconciling this extract with what was pre- viously stated, is by supposing that John Hamilton is the same person with Hans Hamilton, Hans being only an abbreviation of Johannes. . Hans Hamilton was suc- ceeded in the charge by Hew Eglinton, who died in 1646. As the records of Pres- bytery during the time of his incumbency are lost, little is known about him. From an incidental notice in the record of the Presbytery's proceedings at a subsequent period, it appears that he was under process at the time of his death, but the cause of the process is not specified. In 1648, two years aft^r the death of Hew Eglinton, Gabriel Cunninghame was settled. He was ejected in 1663, and restored again by the indulgence of 1672, when Mr William Mein was associated with him in the charge of the parish. After this he seems to have fallen under the suspicion and displeasure of the government, for on the 2d of April 1663, he was indicted, along with some others, <^ for aiding, assisting, and corresponding with Mr John Cunninghame, late of Bedbine, a notorious traitor." Failing to appear, " he was denounced and put to the horn, and his moveable goods ordered to be escheat, and brought into his Majesty's use, as an outlaw and a fugitive.'* He is mentioned by Wodrow, as having lived till after the Revolution ; but whether he was restored to his charge before that period does not appear. He seems to have been a person of considerable eminence, and to have taken a prominent part in the de- liberations of the Presbyterian ministers in those distracted tiroes.— (Wodrow, L SA2; a5d, 437, appendix, 75, 137 : ii. 296, foUo edition.) The fi)llowing is a list of the ministers of this parish, admitted after the Revolution : John Jameson, ordained 21 si September 1692, died 1706 ; James Rowal, ordained May 1709, translated to Jedburgh September 1732; Robert Baird, ordained 2Bck March 1734, died 27th March 1756; James Wodrow, D. D., ordained 1st Septem- ber 1757, translated to Stevenston, October 1 759 ; John Fidlarton, ordained 25th September 1760, translated to Dairy, 16th March 1762; John Graham, orcbined 12th May 1763, translated to Kirkinner, SOtli June 1779 ; Thomas Brisbane, ordain^ ed 27th April 1780, died 9th May 1637 ; Matthew Dickie, admitted from Limerick, 8th May 1634, assistant and successor. The writer of this account has to acknowledge his obligations to James Dobie, Esq. Beith, for supplving him with most of the particulars respecting the ancient state of the parish, which are incidentally mentioned. DUNLOP. 305 Education. — There are at present four schools in the parish, one of which is parochial. The branches of education taught in the parish school are, English reading, writing, arithmetic, book-keep- ing, practical mathematics, and Latin. The same branches SLX,e taught in the private schools, with the exception of practical ma- thematics and Latin. The parish schoolmaster's salary is L.27, 16s. including L. 2, 2s. 9d. in lieu of garden. The school fees amount on an average to about L. 17 a year. The school-house was btiilt in the year 1641, as appears from the following inscription over the door : « 1641. ^^ This school is erected and endowed by James, Viscount Clane- boyes, in love to his parish, in which his father, Hans Hamilton, was pastor 45 years, in King James the Sixt his raigne. I^LV." It is still in pretty good repair; but though it affords to the schoolmaster what may be called legal accommodation, it does not afford such accommodation as a well-qualified teacher ought to have. If, as the inscription intimates, the school was ever en- dowed by Ijord Claneboyes, all knowledge of the scource whence the endowment was derived is now lost The rate of school fees per quarter is as follows : Pariah School, Average of Private Schools, English reading, - 28. Od. Ss. Od. Reading and writing, - 2 6 3 6 Reading, writing, and aritfamctic, 3 4 Do. Do. with Latin, 4 Practical mathematics, < 4 In this parish children are generally sent to school, when they are between five and six years of age, and kept at it, with occa- sional interruptions in seed time and harvest, till they are about thirteen. In the month of November 1834, an inquiry was made as to the number of children attending school, for the purpose of making out the returns on the state of education, ordered by the House of Commons. It was then found that 164 were at school, (all day scholars,) and that only one individual above fif- teen could not read. She had come here a few months before as a servant, and has since gone away. These circumstances suffi- ciently shew that the people in general are alive to the importance of education, and disposed to avail themselves of the opportunities of obtaining it The establishment of a school at the distance of about a mile and a half from the upper end of the parish, would .\vn. u 306 AYRSHIRE. be of very great importance to the families in that district, as the children out of a population of fiiUy 300, residing from two to four miles from the parish school, would then have the means of educa- tion within a moderate distance. Hitherto the schools in that quarter have seldom remained long in one place. A few neigh- bouring farmers have usually engaged a young lad to teach their children, some one of them providing a school-room. Whenever his family grew up, the school of course was removed to another house. Libraries. — There are two libraries ; one, called the Sabbath School Library, from having been established at first in connec- tion with a Sabbath school, contains about 260 volumes, chiefly in religious biography and practical divinity. It is open to all the parishioners gratis. The other is a subscription library, esta- blished in 1828. It now contains about 110 volumes, in general literature. Friendly Society. — A friendly society was established here about twenty-three years ago, whose object is to afford relief to sick and aged members. It has hitherto prospered. There is reason to think that it has had a good efiect in cherishing feelings of inde- pendence. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid for the last seven years is 12, and the ave- rage allowance of each during the same time L. 5, 4s. a year. In addition to their stated aliment, some of them have an allowance for fuel and house rent. The total sum expended annually has amounted on an average of seven years to L. 71, IBs. The average income for the last seven years has been L. 63, 1 7s. dd« arising from the following sources, viz. Church collections,* L. 36, 4s. lOd.; proclamations, L. 1, 7s. ; mortcloth dues, L. 1, 10s. 8d. ; interest of money formerly saved, L. 24, 14s. 9d. total, L.63» 17s. 3d. It thus appears that the expenditure has exceeded the income by L. 8, Os. 9d. a year. This deficiency has been supplied, by taking from the money at interest as much as was necessary to meet current expenses ; — a mode of supporting the poor, the pro- priety of which is very questionable. It may be proper to men- * Under the bead of church collections, are included contributions by a few non- resident heritors. They are put under this head, because they are sent by them week- ly or monthly, as collection, by the hands of some of their tenants. These contri- butions amount at present to. about L. 8, 8s, a year. DUN LOP. 307 tion, that for nearly two years past none of our accumulated mo- ney has been taken to make up deficiencies. The average num- ber of poor has not increased for many years past ; and though it has risen from eight to twelve since the date of the last Statisti- cal Account, yet this is not more than keeping pace with the in- creased population. Tliere is still a general unwillingness to be dependent on parochial aid ; although a few, who are by no means proper objects of charity, are clamorous enough. Fairs. — Two fairs for the sale of dairy stock are held annually at Dunlop,— one on the second Friday of May, old style, and the other on the 12th of November. They are both well attended. Inns^ Alehouses^ S^c, — A very respectable inn has been built at Lugton bridge, on the road from Irvine to Glasgow. Besides this there are six houses in which spirituous liquors are sold. One- half of them might, with benefit to the public, be suppressed. It is found that wherever a public-house is opened, some persons in the neighbourhood fall into dissipated tippling habits, which other- wise they might have avoided. Fuel, — Coal is the only fuel used. It is chiefly brought from the neighbourhood of Kilmarnock and Irvine. The pits at both these places are about seven' miles distant from the village, where coals can be laid down at 12s. per ton, including the expense of carriage. A pit has lately been opened in the parish of Beith, at a dis- tance of three miles from Dunlop. If the coal should prove to be of good quality, it will be of very great advantage to this part of the country. January 1836. Revised September 1837. PARISH OF DALMELLINGTON, PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR* REV. ROBERT HOUSTON, A. M. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish is called in the former Statistical Account, Damelingtoun, and the name is still retained in this form by many of the old inhabitants. The orthography, however, has not been uniform, but has passed through various unimportant changes. In its present shape, the etymology of the name can be easily traced to a very appropriate Gaelic origin, Dail^ signifying a plain, or field, or valley, and MuUeann^ a mill, with the very common affix tan ; the name will therefore signify the town of the valley of the mill, or of the mill field. Dalmellingtou is a burgh of barony. The date of its erection I have not been able to ascertain. Extent and Boundaries. — The parish, as nearly as can be es- timated, is 10 miles long, and on an average fully 3 miles broad. In the absence of any correct measurement of its surface, it may with tolerable accuracy be assumed to be 30 square miles. The boundaries of the parish are the Loch and River Doon on the south and south-west, separating it from the parish of Strai- ten in the district of Carrick ; Dalrymple parish on the west ; Ochiltree on the north ; and New Cumnock and Carsphaim, in the stewartry of Kirkcudbright, on the east. Topographical Appearances. — The figure of the parish is that of an obtuse triangle, the longest side of which is the Loch and River Doon. A perpendicular from this, about half a mile above the middle of the parish, where its breadth is the greatest, and passing through the village, would measure about five miles, and termi- nate nearly at the meeting of Ochiltree and New Cumnock pa- rishes. Surface. — The upper part of the parish is formed by the termi- nation of three ranges of hills, which form ridges of varying though but moderate elevation. Two of these run nearly parallel from the march of Carsphaim, in a north and north-west direction, the one DALMELLINQTON. 309 being a continuation of the lofty ridge on ihe east side of Loch Doon, and the other rising from the foot of Cairnsmuir. The third ridge is from New Cumnock, and crosses the foot of one of the others. Its direction is nearly south-west. The lower part of the parish is nearly one entire ridge of eminences, terminating abruptly to the east, and receiving at its different elevations the names of Benwhat, Benbraniachan, and Benbeoch. The only flat land in the parish is between this ridge and the Doon. It may be a mile in breadth just below the village, and extends about three miles along the Doon, terminating in a point in both direc- tions. The hills are chiefly of easy ascent. In three places only are they for short distances precipitous. Benbeoch terminates the lower ridge to the east in a range of magnificent basaltic co^ lumns, nearly 300 feet in height, and double that extent in breadth. Along the road to Carsphairn (the Dumfries road) for fully a mile, the ridges on either side approach so near as to form a deep pass, through which there is space for only the road and a narrow stream to wind themselves. A still more precipitous pass presents itself on the other side of the extremity of the Loch Doon range, where the river issues from the loch. There, for a mile, the rocky per- pendicular precipices approach within thirty feet of each other, and at some points rise 300 feet above the bed of the river. This is a favourite resort of the tourist of the lochs. A footpath was made by a late proprietor along the south side of the river, and just about the height of its winter torrents. Its present proprie- tor, whose residence is but a few hundred yards from the foot of the glen, has contrived to beautify it as much as it^ rocky gran-» deur will admit of; but its rude natural sublimity, and the deafening dashing of the white torrent along its rocky bed, will ever remain its grand attraction, and make its minor beauties almost unknown and unheeded. This pass, which has given to it the name of the Glen of Ness, or the Craigs of Ness, is the beginning of the val- ley of the Doon, which farther down widens out into rich and ex-o tensive meadows. Looking up the valley from near the foot of the parish, the flat land presents the enclosed figure of a triangle, widening out before the eye, till it reaches the high land above the village, beyond which the mountains of Galloway close the prospect The village, which lies imbedded in a sheltered nook at the north-east corner of the meadow land, is estimated to be 400 feet above the level of the sea* The highest of the surround^ ijig hills amounts not to above 750 feet more. 310 AYRSHIRE. Meteorology. — Nothing can be said, in the absence of all regular and registered observations, of the positive temperature and pressure of the atmosphere. Without doubt it partakes of the greater cold- ness of elevated regions, and is more variable than in lo^^er districts, but no peculiar influence of it can be discovered in the distempers that occur. The inhabitants are hardy, healthy, and long-lived* It is now but a tradition that the climate was once very unhealthy, especially to children. This was charged upon a piece of marshy ground in the neighbourhood of the village. Whether the' cause of this traditionary unhealthiness may have been to be found in the marsh, and its removal in the partial draining of it, I shall not take it upon me to determine, but certain it is the diseases of children are now very rare. Croup, that enemy said to have scourged them, is seldom seen. There is not a single distemper peculiar to the district, or referable to the climate. There is occasionally a case of rheumatism, but even rheumatism, notwith- standing of the elevated situation, and the almost constant expo- sure of many of the inhabitants, is not at all prevalent The visits of epidemics are few and short. The estimated time of the return of measles, small-pox, &c is from seven to ten years. Hydrography, — The springs in the parish are all perennial. Their temperature varies little from that of the atmosphere. They flow chiefly from beds of sand and gravel, and are pure. There are a few chalybeate springs in the neighbourhood. There is a small loch, named Loch Muck, scarce a mile from the south-east boundary of the parish. Its waters are dark, and of considerable depth. Its form is that of a crescent, and its ex- tent between twenty and thirty acres. It lies in the middle of a heathy muir, and abounds in black trout. Another sheet of water, about double the extent, has received the name of the Bogton Loch. It is formed by the spreading out of the Doon, over a piece of low land, about two miles below its source. It is fertile in reeds, and forms a favourite haunt of the water-fowl. The only river worth notice is the far-famed Doon, — all others are but little streams, although occasionally in winter they ap- proach the river size. The Doon, which separates the d^- tricts of Kyle and Carrick, flows out of the loch of the same name. Its exit from the loch is by two tunnels cut out of the solid rock, and protected by sluices, by which the discharge of water is regulated. Its direction during its course along the bounds of this parish is north-west. Its whole length may be 18 DALMELLINGTON. 3 1 1 miles ; its breadth 40 feet ; its depth varies considerably, being from 2 to t^O feet. Except when dashing through the Glen of Ness, its course is through an almost level meadow, where it forms nearly one continued pool of deep dark water. Its temperature is much the same as that of the atmosphere. In its course through the parish, it receives the additional waters of several small streams, by which its frequent overflowings are chiefly occasioned, and dis- charges itself into the sea about two miles south of Ayr. Geology. — The chief of the rocky materials of the parish are graywacke and sandstone, chiefly of the coal formation. For three miles from the head of the parish, and across all its breadth, no- thing is visible but the graywacke, which extends into Galloway. The remaining seven miles are sandstone, in seams of various thicknesses, with everywhere an abundance of coal, and occasion- ally lime and ironstone. The only exception to the universality of this statement, is in the case of the higher part of the ridge termi- nated by the basaltic columns of Benbeoch, already mentioned. This trap range is evidently of igneous origin, and cuts ofi* the coal field of the parish, which is upon the south edge of the great coal valley of the lowlands, from the more extensive tract which pro- ceeds through the northern part of the county to Renfrew and La- narkshire. The efiects of the eruption of the basalt by which this ridge has been produced are manifest in the disturbed state of the incumbent strata. Where the sandstone has been exposed, it ex* hibits a succession of thin layers of blue clay and coal alternating with it, with, in the lower formations, an occasional stratum of the softer kind of common argillaceous schist. The direction and dip of the strata exhibit almost every variety. The sandstone varies chiefly in the direction, and the graywacke in the dip. The dip of the sandstone and its accompanying strata in the lower ridge of hills, as seen in the coal-pits at the extremities of it, is 1 foot in 6 or 7. At the south-east end, the direction is nearly west, whereas at the other it is north-east In the sandstone above the village, the dip is 6 feet in 11, and the direction north- west The graywacke that succeeds it, in going south-east, dips in the opposite direction, and varies greatly on opposite sides of the little stream that divides the two ridges ; on the south-west side, be- ing .as much as 4 feet in 1, and nearly uniform, — ^whereas on the north-east side it varies, and is no more than from 3 feet in 4, to 4 in 3. The bed is nowhere exposed between the graywacke and sandstone, to enable one to discover what rock separates them. 312 AYRSHIRE. About half a-mile below the village, is the morass mentioned in the former report. It is 150 acres of peat resting on a spongy bot>- tom. Several oaks have been found imbedded in it Two of a considerable size are just now exposed, about 6 inches below the surface, in crossing a ditch. They measure respectively 3 feet and 3^ feet in diameter. Others were found nearer the village thirty years ago. The soil along the river side is chiefly a deep loam. Upon the hill sides, in the lower half of the parish, it is a wet clayey loam rest- ing on sandstone, and terminating at the back of the ridge, in a broad moss extending for miles into Ochiltree parish. The up- per part of the parish is chiefly a light dry soil, with a few patches of peat resting on the graywacke rocL The ordinary plants are common grass and^y. There is some heath upon the high lands to the south-east, but it is every year lessening in extent The coal-pits have been many, — especially in low situations, where till lately the coal was worked at less than 3 fiithoms from the sur- face. The pits at present in operation are two ;— one, the Cam- larg pit, about a mile from the village, is nearly 20 fathoms deep. Two seams of coal are there worked together, the lower seam 3 feet deep, and the higher 22 inches. They are separated by 16 inches of a black soft stufi* the colliers very appropriately deno* minate dirt Immediately above and below the coal, is freestone mixed with coal.* The other pit is about five miles distant at the foot of the parish, and is worked by a steam-engine. The following is an official re- port of the depth, &c. of it : Blue clay, 66 feet ; freestone, 70 feet ; smithy coal, 3 feet ; fire clay, 1 foot ; hard fire-coal, 8 feet ; fire-clay, 4 feet ; hard fire-coal, 4 feet ; total, 156 feet Zoology. — The wild animals are such as are the ordinary inha- bitants of mountain districts, and which are carefully specified in the game acts. Black game have been abundant for the last twenty * The manner of raising the coals from this pit deserves notice and imitation also» where similar fiicilities are possessed. The pit is dug in the side of a hill, and has the direction of a small stream turned to its mouth. It is divided into two square com- partments, to which water-tight boxes, partly open above, are fitted, and upon which the coal creeb are placed. The full cre^s are raised by running a sufficient quantity of water into the box at the top, upon which the empty creel is placed. The water escapes from the box by a valve in the bottom of it. This valve is opened by an iron peg fitted to it, striking against a stone at the bottom of the pit, and the water runt off into a level or tunnel to the stream at the foot of the hill. The nxotion is regulated by means of a lever pressed upon the wheel over which the rope passes. The appa- ratus is the simplest and safest possible, is managed with the greatest ease^ and has worked most successfully. DALMELLINGTON. 313 years. Wild ducks abound in the Bogton loch, and frequently tempt the eagle from the Star mountains to a comfortable meal. That beautiful little bird the teal also frequents the loch. The loch is also adorned from October to March with flocks of wild swans, which make it their resting-place duringthe winter. The bittern, commonly called from its ominous sound, the bull of the bog, was in former days also to be found on the loch. Foxes were wont to be very abundant in the parish. Certain caves, formed by the fallen co- lumns of Benbeoch, afforded them strong hiding-places, whence they issued, and committed frightful havoc among the flocks and poultry. By dint of persevering efforts they were entirely extir- pated ; but within these two or three years, certain stray ones have reached the old abodes. Botany. — The rarest plants noticed in this parish are the fol- lowing : Affrostis pumilaf Holcus mollis^ Melica uniflora^ Fextuca viviparoj Scirpus setaceus^ Gnaphaltum syhaticunty NymphiFa albOf Solidago mrgaurea^ Stachys ambigtiaj Saxifraga hypnoides. On Benbeoch is found abundance of the beautiful Cryptogramma crispa^ and in the Glen of Ness the Polypodium dryopterisy As^ plenium viride and Trichomanesy Aspidium lobatum^ and ,3. lonchi" tidoideSf Hymenophyllum Wiboniy are frequent ; and also, in beau- tiful fructification, abundance of the Neckera crispa and Hook-- eria lucens. IL — Civil History. The most ancient account of parish transactions is to be found in the session-records. The first date of them is 7th March 1641. For twenty-one years they were exceedingly well kept, and very voluminous, and again for the same period at the beginning of the last century ; and give a striking picture of the times in the acts embodied in them, and the vigilance and extent of the discipline they bear to have been exercised. * For a century after the last date, * A session of these ancient days would have shamed the scanty muster of modern times. The list of session in 1641 is given at the beginning of the record. It was made up of the minister* fourteen elders, four deacons, and the clerk» to whom seem to have been added at a future period other two elders and four deacons. And this in a parbh in which in 1755 there were but 739 itihabitants. The following ex* tracts will shew the style and character of ecclesiastical enactments in these days. The following is of date 21st March 1641, and is intituled **• Act anent Egyptians:" ^* The qlk day it was enacted, yt if any within the sd parochoune sal resett or enter- tein any vagabounde, especially those who be called Egyptians, they sal pav of penalty 6 lib." The following *< Act anent Sabbatt breaking** is also of the same date. " The qlk day it was also enacted, that if any sould be fund absent from the kirk upoun the Lord's day, or any other way be prophaning the same, that they sould stand in the public place of repentance, and pay of penalty ane mk.** Standing in tackchtt was then ordained by the presbytery against delinquents, who had been referred to its 314 AYRSHIRE. there is little record of session proceedings^ The register of births and marriages begins at the same date, and, except during ^^ the time of the curate," as the last period of the Episcopacy is usually designated, all the records of which are a few scarce readable en- tries of baptisms, it has been, with little interruption, well kept to the present day. This parish bore its full share of the hardships of the times of persecution* The traditionary records of these times are by no means scanty ; but a narrative still more full and better authenti- cated will be found in Wodrow* He gives the history of this parish as a specimen of what was generally practised, and says, ^^ Had materials come to my hand as distinctly from the rest of the country as from this parish, what a black view we might have had." He details minutely the great number of troops frequently quartered upon the people. In 1678 they had 900 Highlanders quartered upon them ; a number which, judging from the earliest census we possess, was more than the whole population of the pa- rish. As a specimen of the fines levied for worshipping in inter- dicted places, he gives a list of ten individuals who had to pay, in the portions severally specified, 600 merks and 260 lib. for hear- ing a sermon in the chapel in Straiten parish. And this besides the imprisonment of some of them, and the dispersing of the family, and the plundering of the house of one who did not appear. Wodrow quotes frequently and at great length from the diary of Quintin Dick, an inhabitant of this parish, who bore a prominent part both in the sufferings and in the doings of these days. In such exciting times he was a remarkable instance of sound judg- ment, steadfiist principle, and moderation. After much suffering, and a long imprisonment in Dunottar Castle, he providentially escaped banishment to the Plantations, to which he had been sen- judgment. We apprehend that the churvh, upon its re-establishment after the Re- volution, found society in a sadly disorganized state,—- for the session records, for some time subsequent to that date, show the exercise of a yery strict discipline over all kinds of offenders. Drunkenness, pro&ne swearing, and **• Sabbatt breaking,*' were resolutely rebuked and repressed. All unnecessary work which might be conveniently done on the Saturday, such as ** cutting of kail and carrying in of water," were pro- hibited. Two elders in their turn searched the town, and looked after strollers in the fields during divine service. A week day service was maintained, and it was en- acted on the 26th October 170A, « That there should be no market keeped, by sell- ing of meal and other commodities in time of Divine service upon the week day." No drinking was permitted in public-houses on any night after the ringing of the belL One extract more, strikingly indicative of the interest in all beneficial undertakings, Che Kirk of Scotland has ever taken. On the 16th May 1658, a collection was mi^e for *' the harbour of Kirkadie, the bridge of Carsphairne, and the kirk of Kirkbride." ' The sum collected was *^ 7 lib. 2s. 4d. ;" of which *' 4 lib.'* was given to Kirkadie* ** 3 lib.'* to Carsphairne, and the remaioder to Kirkbride* DALMELLINGTON. 315 tenced ; and returned to his house in peace. We find hioi after- wards employed in endeavouring to heal the differences which separated the Presbyterian brethren. Land'owners. — The Hon. Colonel and Mrs Macadam Cathcart of Craigengillan, who reside at Berbeth, just without the border of the parish, possess nearly the whole of the parish. Antiquities. — The sites of two castles are pointed out; — one, a few hundred yards above the village, which, from a traditionary story of its occupant, is still spoken of as Dame Helen's Castle, has been a small building. One of the oldest houses in the village, from having been built of the materials of the castle, is called the Castle House, and on one of its door lintels bore, thirty years ago, the date 1003. The village seems to have been originally a dependency of this castle, — for closely overhanging the village, and between it and the castle, is a most complete moat of considerable height ; one of those primitive courts whence laws were promulgated, and where the justice of these days was administered. The land be- tween the castle and the moat still bears the name of the Castle Crofts, and at a little distance from thence is the Gillies Kiwwe, The other castle has been a more considerable structure, and must have been from its situation, literally a place of strength, — and security also. The site of it is a projecting point on a deep glen side, quite precipitous, or raiher overhanging, on three sides ; the fourth side has had the usual protection of a foss^. From some traditionary connection with the history of Alpine, the 68th King of the Scots, it is called Leight, or Laght Alpine. In Chalmers's Caledonia, notice is taken of a Roman road which passed through the length of this parish from south-east to north- west. The line of it has been traced through Dumfries and Kirkcudbright shires. The last remains of it in this parish, on the farm of Burnhead, were raised seven years ago to repair some dikes, which had formerly been built of the whinstone of which the road was formed. It had been from ten to eleven feet broad, composed of a row of large stones on either side, and filled up with smaller between. Leaving Dalmellington it entered Dalrymple, where it has been traced in various places, and terminated at a ford in the River Ayr, not a great distance above the town. We have farther evidence that this was a great thoroughfare of the Romans, in the correctness with which the course of the Doon^ the only river in Ayrshire, there laid down, is traced in Ptolemy's Geography of Britain. There is a strong probability that Dal- 316 AYRSHIRE. melliDgton was a Roman station ; the Corda which Dr Henry sets down upon the Ayr at Cumnock. The Gaelic etymology of the name agrees also entirely with the appearance of the place, cor- responding to the first portion of its modern appellation. There have been three considerable cairns or heaps of loose stones in the parish, all above the village. One of these immense heaps, about half amile to the east-south-east, on the top of a little hill, measured about 1 15 yardsin circumference. Thematerialsof it were, a few years ago, applied by the present occupant of the land to the more useful purpose of building dikes. There were found under it several graves covered with flat stones, and containing dry hu~ man bones. Sometime before, another about a mile from it, in a valley, was applied to the same purpose. Under it also were found graves and bones. Some remains of a third, called the White Cairn of Camannock, have been left in the middle of the moor, about half a mile from the head of the parish, and as far to the south, west of the Galloway road. It is said to mark the spot where the chiefs of one party were buried, after some severe conflict of ancient days ; and tradition farther says the slain of the opposite party were buried under a similar cairn, some miles farther on, in the farm of Holm, in the parish of Carsphairn. HI. — Population. In the year 1755, . 739 1791, . 681 1831, in the Tillage, 708 country, 348 1056 1837, - 1126 Yearly average of births for seven years previous to 1831, . . 281^ deaths for do. ..... 19^ marriages for do. . . . . 10^ Number under 16 years of age, . . . 442 betwixt 15 and 30, . . . . 222 30 and 50, . . . . .240 50 and 70, . . . . . 107 upwards of 70, . . . .45 There are three proprietors of land of the yearly value of upwards of L. 50. Number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers upwards of 50 years of age, 28 women upwards of 45, . • .59 Average number of children in a family, .... 3^* In the course of the last three years there were 6 illegitimate births in the parish. The climate has its certificate of salubrity in the appearance of the people. Theyhayebeen for years areading people. Among them I have reason to know there are many who read to profit in the things * This is said of children residing with their parents, not of the whole number bom^ DALMELLINGTON. 317 that belong to their everlasting peace, and who fear God, " speaking often one to another." Such a cause cannot but operate, to some extent at least, for good. Accordingly the attendance on religious ordinances is for the most part regular and decent. There is much propriety of conduct, and a growing disposition to discountenance the profligate and unprincipled. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Number of acres cultivated or occasionally in tillage, - 1,904 that never have been cultivated, * • 173^6 that might profitably be cultivated, - 1,1^ in a state of undivided common, - - 277 under wood, about .... 750 The plantations are chiefly larch and Scotch fir, which appear to suit the climate well. There are a few ashes, birches, and saughs, indigenous. So far, the plantations seem to be under good management. Rent ��� The rent of arable land cannot be correctly given. The arable land is but a small portion of the parish, and is chiefly made up of a few fields in the lower and more sheltered parts of the va- rious stock-iarms, — but if let together, it might be worth 1 5s. per acre. The average rent of grazing is L. 3 per full-grown cow, and 3s. per ewe or full-grown sheep. Prices. — A one-horse box-cart and wheels, with iron axle, is bought for from L.8 to L. 9; srcart and plough harness, L. 3 to L. 4 per set; an iron plough from L. 3, 10s. to L. 4, 10s ; a wood plough, L. 2 ; harrows mounted from L. 1, 10s. to L. 2 per pair. Live-Stock. — The common breed of sheep is the black-faced. A few Cheviot and Leicester have lately been introduced. The cows are Ayrshire. These form the chief stock of the parish, with some Galloway and Highland stots and heifers. The management of them is well understood. Of late years a considerable deal more land has been brought under cultivation than formerly, for the im- provement of the pasture. Lime is abundant, and near at hand, which enables this system to be pursued profitably ; and with it has considerably increased the amount of dairy slock. One en- terprising tenant (Captain Walker in Bellsbank) has in this way improved, or has in process of improvement, 400 acres, and lately furrow-drained about forty acres. Encroachments have also been made upon the moss-land successfully, by spade husbandry, be- ginning with potatoes in lazy beds. The general duration of leases of late has been seven years. 318 AYRSHIRE. The practice of landlords, and the voice of the tenantry seem to be at variance on the subject of the effects of such a system. I shall not attempt to decide the point, though I may be allowed to remark, that the tenants who have shewn the greatest enterprise in improvement, and expended most liberally, have their farms on leases of nineteen years. The enclosures are, in general, in good condition and abundant* The farm-steadings in some cases are not remarkable for comfort, though in this respect considerable improvement has been made of late years. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, — i^nia, afanodt wholly oats, 1 100 quarters at L. 1, Is., - L. 1155 Green crop, chiefly potatoes, 81 acres at L. 8, - - 648 Hay, chiefly meadow, .... 1800 Sheep, 8000 pastured, 4s. each, - - - 1600 Cows,270at L.4, 10s., .... 1215 • Heifers, &c., 440 at L. 2, - - - - 880 Coals, ..... 1441 L. 8739 Mantifactitres. — The chief manufactures of the village are wool- spinning, and the weaving of plaiding, tartan, and carpets. There are two small woollen mills, employing together about thirty hands. The yarn spun in the largest was wont to be disposed of wholly to the Kilmarnock carpet-manufacturers ; but four years ago, the proprietor of the mill added to it -also a carpet manufactory, where he has now eight looms constantly at work. The yarn spun in the other mill is also manufactured on the spot, into blankets, plaids, and packing-cloth, &c. There are about forty weavers, besides, in the village, the greater number of whom are occupied with tartans'; a few weave cotton cloth, and a few are customer weavers, t. e. weavers of home-spun yam. There was wont to be a bleachfield of some extent on the farm of Dounieston, at the foot of the parish, — the increased importations of Irish linen, and the extensive substitution of cotton goods for home manu&cture, gradually lessened its employment, and for two years it has been given up. The premises were last year converted into a thread- mill, which has been for some time in active operation. Those in the mills work ten hours a-day : the weavers' days and hours are regulated entirely by their inclination or their ne- cessities ; but, being industrious, I apprehend their six days may average twelve hours each. At this rate of labour their earnings may average Is. 6d. per day. DALMELLINGTON. 319 Nothing injurious to health or morals can be charged against the employments of those engaged in manufactures* The purity of the atmosphere efiFectually neutralizes any bad effects of the sedentary habits of the weaver upon his health ; and the mills are not of such extent, as, by the numbers they congregate, to seduce the minds of the young from the simplicity of rural life. V. — Parochial Economt. Market^Tovms, — The market-town the easiest of access, though not the nearest, is Ayr. The distance to it is fifteen miles and a quar- ter. The only village in the parish is that which bears its name. It is a penny-post to Ayr, from which a foot-post comes on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and returns on the alternate days. There are two turnpike roads in the parish, — the Ayr and Dum- fries road, which passes through the extreme length, — and another which crosses it at the village. Means of Communication. — The means of communication enjoy- ed by the parish are abundant We have the benefit of the Ayr and Dumfries coach going one way or the other, each day ; another conveyance to and from Ayr on market days, with carriers also on the same days, and weekly carriers to Glasgow, Dumfries, and Gis- tle Douglas. The bridges are abundant, and chiefly in good repair. There are six over the Doon, and nearly double that number over the smaller streams, sufficiently large to admit a heavy flood. It was not, however, always so. One bridge over the Doon is one hundred and sixteen years old, another over the Muck is about sixty ; and I believe the first roads in the parish are of nearly as recent a date. The fences are chiefly dry stone walls, abundant and in good condi* tion. The hedges around the village are thriving and neatly kept. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is as conveniently situated as it could be, to suit the population. It is in the village, and about five miles from each extremity of the parish. It was built in 1766, but, though of no great age, from the dampness of the site, it is exceedingly uncomfortable ; and, for both comfort and ac- commodation, it is ripe for rebuilding. It is seated for 442, firom which there have to be deducted 36 sittings, the private property of, and occupied by, an heritor in a neighbouring parish, leaving for the parish 406 sittings, of which 47 are free. The manse was built in J 798. It underwent a thorough re- pair in 1833, and an addition is at present being built to it The glebe measures about 10 acres ; and is worth L. 2 per acre. The stipend is L. 1 12, Os. 8d. including L. 8. 6s. 8d. for communion 320 AYRSHIRE. elements; fifty merks Scots besides are paid to the College of Glas- gow, All attend the parish church, whether churchmen or Dis- senters, except seven Reformed Presbyterians, about as many more who care for neither sanctuary nor Sabbath, and a family or two of Irish Papists. There are but eleven individuals Dissenters in the parish, be- sides the Papists. The attendance at church is very regular. The number of communicants at the Established Church is 465. The contributions for religious and charitable purposes are made by collections in the church, and average about L. 8 yearly. Education. — There are four schools in the parish,-— one paro- chial, one partially endowed, and two others, one of them a female school, unendowed. The branches taught in three of the schools are English and English grammar, writing, arithmetic, mathematics, book- keeping, Latin and Greek. The parochial teacher has the legal accommodation and the maximum salary. The endowment of the second school consists of school and dwelling-house, with garden, coals, and L. 10 of salary, given by the Honourable Colonel Mac- adam Cathcart, during his pleasure. Peculiar circumstances pre- vent at present any estimate of the amount of fees. The girls in the female school are taught English, writing, and needle-work. The children are sent to school early, and are usually kept at it as long as the circumstances of their parents will admit. Except in one direction, there are but two or three families beyond two miles and a-half from the village, and there none are beyond the same distance from a school in the village of Patna, in Straiton parish. Library. — There is a subscription library in the parish. It was established in 1823, and now contains upwards of 800 volumes. It is indebted to Colonel Cathcart and others for some handsome donations of books, but is chiefly supported by its own funds. There are at present about 60 subscribers ; the annual subscription is 4s. There is a reading-room, for the establishing and support of which, property and money to a considerable amount, besides a li- brary of 600 volumes, were left by a shopkeeper in the village, who died a few years ago. Any surplus yearly income to be ap» plied for the education of poor children. Savings Bank. — A savings bank was established in the parish in May 1834. The amount of deposits remaining at the end of DALMELLINGTON* 321 last year was between L. 200 and L^ 300. The deposits have stea-> dily increased from the beginning, and from the classes of persons who, it is desirable, should take the benefit of the institution. They are chiefly young workmen and servants. Poor oTid Parochial Funds* — The number of persons receiving regular aid is 14. They receive on an average 5s. Id. per calen^ dar month. Several others receive occasional relief. The annual expense amounts to about L. 70, of which about L. 30 is made up of collections at the church doors, and the small addition of a part of the dues of proclamation. The balance of the expenditure is liberally supplied by Colonel Cathcart. I am sorry to have to tes- tify the lowering of the ancient spirit of independence in many, with reference- to receiving parish relief. I remark if, not so much in the poor themselves, as in their relations, who are anxious to be rid of the burden of them, by ^^ flinging them on the session." The olden spirit is not, however, wholly banished ; there are yet some specimens of the honest and commendable independence of spirit^ which will rather doubly toil, if any degree of possible exertion can eke out a scanty pittance. Fairs. — There were wont to be monthly cattle markets and feirs held here, but new arrangements among the cattle-dealers have abolished the market, and reduced the fairs to three, which are held on Pastern's E'en, the first Friday after Whitsunday, and Hallow E'en, all old style. The chief business transacted at them is concerning wool, and feeing servants. InnSf Sfc, — There are 8 inns and public houses in the parish,-^ seven of these in the village, supported to a considerable extent by the visitants, during the fishing-season, to Loch Doon. But even for the accommodation of these parties, or for profit to the inn- keepers themselves, or advantage to the community, they are too many by a half. Fkiel. — Fuel is in great abundance, and very cheap. Very few peats are used. One of the coal pits at present worked is but about a mile from the village, and there they are had for about 3& per ton of 20 cwt Miscellaneous Observations. Those who saw the parish, forty years ago, speak of the great improvement in its cultivation. It was then the practice to turn up any patch that might be conceived capable of yielding a scanty crop for a year, without any assistance of lime or manure, and it was left to return to its native wildness again. Draining was AYR. X 322 AYRSHIRE. scarce even thought of. No attempt was made to rear artifi* cial grasses ; it was conceived they would not grow* Only within these thirty years or so, has lime been applied to the soil, and grasses sown. A complete contrast in the facilities of communi- cation is also spoken of. The roads were rough and rudely formed, literally ^' over the mountain and over the moor." The streams were without bridges ; and a winter torrent could, in half an hour, fix the inhabitants of a district within their proper boundaries. The industry of the parish has had its rise and fall since the publication of the former Report The woollen manufactory then projected was established, and gave a new impetus to, and enlarged the extent of, the staple business, — plaiding and tartan manufacturing. But the English blanketing and cotton cloths' have lessened the demand fi>r plaidings, and the Bannockbum manuEeu^turers have got nearer the market for tartans. The chief improvements in agriculture of which the land seems capable would be the extension of furrow- drainbg, — much of the soil being wet, and upon a retentive sub- soil ; — and the following out of the system so successfully pursued, of liming the land capable of cultivation, cropping it for two years, and sowing it down for permanent pasture. The extension of plan- tations in clumps and stripes for shelter would farther contribute much to benefit both stock and crop, and to ornament the appear- ance of the country. September 1837. PARISH OF AUCHTNLECK. PBJESBYTBRY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AKD AYR. THE REV. JAMES CHRYSTAL, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Auchinlbck is said to be derived from two Celtic words signifying « the field of the flag-stones.'' Whatever may be the origin of the name, there is certainly a great abundance of freestone in the parish, though not altogether of that description implied in the name. Extent and Boundaries. — The form of the parish is exceedingly inconvenient, being about 16 miles from east to west, and not more AUGHINLECK. 323 than 2 miles on an average in breadth. It contains about IQ^OOO acres. It is bounded on the north by the parishes of Mauchline, Sorn, and Muirkirk ; on the east by Muirkirk and Crawfordjohn ; on the south by Kirkconnel, New Cumnock, and Old Cumnock ; and on the west by Ochiltree. Topographical Appearances, — There is nothing very remarkable in the appearance of the parish. It is on the whole a cold and bleak district, particularly towards the east, and, lying in a high and exposed situation, is by no means distinguished for its fertility. Airds Moss occupies the centre of it for about four miles on its eastern boundary, — which tends to give it an aspect of barrenness in that direction ; but further to the south, and especially on the banks of one or two streams which traverse the countrv, there are a number of farms which produce fair crops of oats, and in some few cases also of turnips. The more westerly part of the parish is al- most wholly cultivated, and has a greater appearance of fertility, from being better clothed with wood, and from the farms being more numerous and better enclosed. The soil, however, here is generally composed of a cold, stiff clay, which requires constant liming or manuring to produce a tolerable crop, and which is very apt to sour, from the frequent rains which fall upon it, and lie up- on its surface. The holm lands are very productive. Glenmore is a wild valley of 5 or 6 miles in extent Meteoroloffy and Hydrography. — In common with the rest of the parishes which lie so near the western coast, this parish is much visited by rain, and the prevalence of the south-west wind makes the climate damp. From the peculiar direction, however, in which the ranges of the hills run, it perhaps, on the whole, enjoys drier weather than some of the neighbouring parishes. The principal streams connected with the district are the rivers Ayr and Lugar. They are nearly similar in size, and ultimately unite about a mile below the extremity of the parish. The for- mer, afler flowing through a great part of the parish of Muirkirk, forms the boundary between it and Auchinleck for a short distance, and then enters the parish of Som. The Lugar is formed by the junction of two smaller streams, and forms the boundary between Cumnocktod Auchinleck for 5 miles, and between Auchinleck and Ochiltree for about 2 miles. Geology. — There is a great variety of minerals. Sandstone is abundant, and of different qualities. Lime has long been wrought as well as coal, and there is an extensive field of ironstone toward 324 AYRSHIRE. Muirkirk* A small bed of iron ore is found on the farm of Bog- head, and at Gasswater there is an excellent description of fire clay. A course of mineral water runs through the same farm of Boghead, and that of Waltrees, which petrifies moss, and there is another of a similar kind at Cubbs Craigs, which is said to ha?e produced masses upwards of a ton weight. Soil — The soil is various. In the lower part of the parish, it is generally of a stiff clay with a cold impenetrable bottom. In wet weather, therefore, while it retains too much moisture, in drier seasons its natural tendency is to become very hard. Thegreat point in this soil is to get quit of the surface water. In other parts, the soil is lighter and warmer, and not unfrequently it has been re- claimed from the surrounding moss. Woods. — Though the general character of the parish may be bleakness, it is by no means universally so. There are consider- able plantations in several parts of it, and more particularly in the neighbourhood of the . House at Auchinleck, where there is not only a great extent of younger wood, but many trees of great age and size. There is also a quantity of wood in the parks around Dumfries House, which, though itself in Cumnock parish, has a part of its demesne in Auchinleck. XL — Civil History. EminentMen^ (J-c. — This parishhas acquired celebrity from being the residence of James Boswell, Esq. author of the " Life of John- son." Johnson accompanied his friend to Auchinleck on his re- turn from the " Journey in the Hebrides ;" and it appears from one of his published letters that he had intended to write a history of the Auchinleck family. Several of the members of this family have been distinguished men. The following is the account of their connection with Ayrshire, as it is given in the Life of John- son : — " In the year 1504, the barony or manor of Auchinleck, in Ayrshire, which belonged to a family of the same name with the lands, having fallen to the Crown by forfeiture, James the Fourth, King of Scotland, granted it to Thomas Boswell, a branch of an ancient family in the county of Fife, styling him in the char- ter, ' dilecto familiari nostro,' and assigning as the cause of the grant, * pro bono et fideli servitio nobis prestito.' Thomas Bos- well was slain in battle, fighting along with his sovereign at the fatal field of Flodden." The Laird of Auchinleck (who was pro- bably one of the Auchinlecks of that Ilk) accompanied Sir Wil- liam Wallace to Glasgow, along with Wallace of Richardtown AUCHINLECK. 325 and James Cleland, when Sir William slew Earl Percy, and put the English to rout. William Murdoch, of the house of Bolton and Watt, to wHom the country is so much indebted for his usefiil application of gas, was a native of this parish. Mr M'Gavin, the author of the Protestant, was likewise bom in it. Wallace of Wallacetoun was once a family of considerable importance in this district, but they now are unconnected with it by property. Land-Hmmers. — The principal land-owners are, Sir James Bos* well, Bart, who possesses nearly two-thirds of the valued rental ; the Marquess of Bute ; and Mr Limond of Dalblair ; besides whom there are eight other proprietors. Parodiial Registers. — Previous to the appointment of the pre- sent schoolmaster, these were not very regularly kept; and they go no farther back than to about the beginning of last century. Antiquities. — There is an old castle at Auchinleck, which is very much dilapidated, but which, from its situation, must have been a place of great strength. The date of its erection is un- known ; there are, however, several legends regarding its history : Near it, is the old House or Place of Auchinleck. Here, and indeed both up and down the stream, in the neighbourhood of which it stands, the scenery is remarkably fine, — the rocks on its banks being in many places about 100 feet in height, and the whole finely shrouded in wood. There are two or three bridges connecting various parts of the grounds ; and one in particular is very grand, being built across a deep ravine, and commanding a beautiful view of the picturesque rivulet which runs below. The present houBe stands on a more elevated situation, at a consider- able distance from the old one, and is a handsome Grecian struc- ture built by Lord Auchinleck. There is another old castle in the upper part of the parish, called Kyle Castle, the property of the Marquess of Bute. Very little of it remains ; and there seems to be no trace whatever of its history. It is situate in a seques- tered district, on an elevated tongue of land, near the junction of the Gelt and Glenmore waters. At Dornal, also, there are some few remains of what seems at one period to have been a place of strength. Near the head of Airds Moss, is to be seen the monument erect- ed to the memory of Richard Cameron, who. was here overtaken and slain by the dragoons, on the 20th of July 1680. It consist- ed till lately of a flat stone with his own name, and the names of the other individuals who were slain along with him, inscribed up- 326 AYRSHIRE. on it A more conspicuous memorial of bis life and •> 1 8| Breadth between orbits, - - 10| Distance between the tips of the horns measured by the skuU, • - • 11 10 Do. in straight line across, - - 2 Length of each bom, - • 5 9 Greatest breadth of palm, - - 2 9 Circumference of the beam at the root of the brow antler, 1 Of Diameters of orbit, • - - The other head appears to have belonged to a variety of Bos taurusy the forehead being concave. It measures ten inches be* tween the horns, and 13^ inches round the bole of the horn* Horns of the Cervus elephas were also found. Amongst the shells in the marl I have only observed specimens of Limnea and P&:- norbis. Zoology, — The rarer animals are marine, as will be seen by the following list, chiefly made up of those found on the sea coast. Mafhtnalia, Alcedo ispida Trigla Hirundo Mustda erminea Sterna minuta latris Avea. Reptilea. Labnis Bidanus Otus brachiotus Bufo Rubeta Crenilabrus Tinea Caprimulgus Europeus PUces. Crtutacea. Bombycilla garrula Sparus aurata Palinurus quadricornis Otis tarda Zieus Falwir AYR. Z Drummellanr upecimen. Ft. In. 1 11 m 10 4 7 5 5 2 7 1 14 2jby24 354 AYRSHIRE. Moliusca. Loligo media Octopus oetopodia Cavolina per^rina Eolida purpurascens Pieurobranohus plumula Anomia Aculeata AniteUdc9. Nerais irioolor Aphrodita aculeata Polynoe laeris Siffalion Mathildxe Cirrhatulua fuaeeiceni Syllis (ulgurans Phyllodoce laminosa TerebeUa Medusa XadUUa. Actiuia dianthus ■ ▼iridis Holothufia pellucida Comatula Uarbata Rhizostotna undulata Cassiopea lunulata Zoophffla. Halichondria panicea I suberica Berenicea eoocinea Cdryna squamata ' glandule An eyry of the falcon or game hawk is found annually on the Heads of Ayr. The motions of the birds over the diffs are extreme- ly beautiful, and they have been much prised for the purposes of falconry. It is said that some birds, as the common goldfinch for example, have become much less numerous, in consequence of the increased cultivation of the country. The following shell-fish, important in an economical point of view, are found upon the coast, but, with the exception of the first, are very scarce : Mytilns edtdUy Ostrea edulisj Cardium edtde, Pecten maximua. • Botam/* — The field for botanical research is extensive and di- versified. Several miles of a rocky coast, an extensive tract of light dry land, a hilly range of some miles in length, with marshes and heaths on the surface, and a series of fresh water lochs and meadows, afford a great variety of localities and a number of rare plants. Mr James Smith of Monkwood, whose labours have en- riched the catalogue of our Scottish species, has examined all these localities, and I have been chiefly indebted to him for the following list, several of which have been discovered and named by himself. The list might have been greatly extended, but it will be obvious that even it embraces many plants which cannot be considered as rare. They are arranged according to the Lin- nean system, and the localities are added. Veronica anapllis, Auohendrane Mill. Utricularia minor, MiUhill Moss. Fida agrigata, Jamas Smith on Caniek^ Solanum nigrum, sand on Dunure shore Samolus valerandi, wet rocks do. Ugustieum Scoticum, DundulT shore. Oenanthe pimpinelkiidcs, salt marsh on do Conyolvulus Soldanella, sea shore. Allium yineale, above Dunure CasUe. Scilla verna, Dunure. Aoorus Calamus, Laigh Culsean Meadows. Rumex Palustris, marshes sea shore. shore, BramerhilL Festuca bromoides, Millhill. Radlola Miliegrana. Centunculus minimus, near Monkwood. Atropa Belladonna, Dunure CasUe. Lithospermum maritimum, near do. Cynoglossum officinale. Castle Rock over Alisma natans, Millhill Moss. the Sea. A. ranunculoides, do. Folemonium eaBrakum, old road over Paris quadrifolia, Carrick-hill. Pvrola media, rosd near Pennj^en. Lobelia Dortmanna, water on top of Cnrvsosplenium altemifolium. Brae. Carrick-hill. Sazi^aga aiaoides, rocks Dunduff shore. Viola lactea, Knockover. — — granulata, High Smiston. Verbascum Thapsus, Dunure shore. Stcllaria nemorum, Monkwood. MAYBOLE. 3f>5 SteHaria seapigera, do. Hypericum hirsutum, BowerhiU. Cotyledon umbilicus, shore at Dunure Soncbus oleraceus, common. Castle. *) These vetysingu- , SperguU aaginoides, Carrick-hilL - laoerum, I lar species or va- Euphorbia exigua, Fields above Dunure — — montanum, > rieties quite dif- Castle. ...^...-..» maritinHim» I ferent plants. J. Pyrus Arta» abore rocka at Dunure. J Smith. Rubus suberectus, Braew Cichorium Intybus, blairston and near — ■ ■■- eorjiilblius, near Monkwood. Maybole. sazatilis, do. Bidens cernua, Heart Loch. Olaudum luteum, Dunure harbour. Tanaoetum yulgare. Glen near Dunduff Thalletram minus, do. Castle. Ranunculus Lingua, Heart Loch. Gnaphalium rectum^ 1 Shore bv Lathnea squamaria, Blairston. minimum, > Bower- Aotirrhiiium minus, ield above Dunure .....i. gtrmanicura, rj^m Castle. margaritaceum, j Teesdalia nudicaulis, sea shores Aster Tripolium, Dunure shore. Cakile maritime, do. Pyrethrum nwritimum, do. Cardamine minor, Monkwood, J. Smith. Inula bclenium, Dunure Castle. Arabia hirButa,ioeky coast BoirerhilL Orehis albida, ) n»^»:^iM-o« ^ r.- Brassica Monensis, La shore. viridis, f^u^^n.*" *^ ^"' Geranium Columbinum, Drummcllan conopsea, 3 Glen. Listers oordata, among heath on Car- Malva moschata, ) .^ ■ ... rickhilL sylvestris, J ^^J'^""- Malaxis patudosa, Hills above Dunure L^yna sylvestris, Rjmcoch Glen. , Spaiganiu m «mplex, I ^gj^jy ^^ Vicia lutea, Dunure Castle. — natans, J Ornithopus perpusillus. Sea Shore. — acutifolia, distinct species in Astragalus hypo^lottis, top of rocks same locality, with very small heads, BowerhilL no( named, J. Smith. TrilbUum omitfaopodioides I Cunnan Carex llmoaa, Knockdon Moss. • striatum ) Park. .— .. pendula. Banks of Doon. — campestre, J. Smith, common A^idium Oreopteris, Rocks near sea. on barren land, but not distinguished^ Asplenium marinum, do. confounded with T. pretense, but quite Botrychium Lunaria, Carrick-hill. distinct. Cattle dont eat it. Ophioglossum vulntum, do. Lotus angustifolia, J. Smith, Monkwrood. Lyoopodium selaginoides, do. Hypericum androsaemumi 7 Above rocks — - a]pinum,_ do. Jc - calycinum, { on shore. Equisetum fluviatile^ Knockdon Glen. — dubium, Uancoch Glen. . — - hyemale» — - montanum. New Mill Monk- Pilularia globulifera, Greenan. wood. IL — Civil History* I am not aware of any works, printed or MS. devoted entirely to the history of this parish, but there are several documents of considerable interest illustrative of past events, and which refer largely to it The chief of these are, the <^ Historie of the Ken* nedyis," published in 1830, from an original MS. in the library of the Faculty of Advocates, by Mr Pitcairn ;*-an account, by John Knox, published in 1568, of a disputation held betwixt him and Quentin Kennedy, Abbot of Crossraguel, in the town of May- bole, the only copy of which was in the Auchinleck Library, but a fac»simile of which was reprinted by Sir Alexander Boswell in 1812 ; — and, lastly, <^ A Description of Carrick, by Mr William Abercrummie, minister at Maybole," and which has also been printed from Macfarlan's MS. in the Advocates' Library, by Mr 356 AYRSHIRE. Pitcairn, forming No. 3 of his Appendix to the History of the Kennedys. Great light h& been thrown by these works both on the civil and ecclesiastical state of the country, at and before the accession of King James to the English throne ; and the following notices of events, the scenes of which were laid in this parish, have appeared to me not only of local, but even of such general interest as justly to entitle them to a place in this Account. I shall particularly notice two of those events, not only as remarkable in themselves, but as intimately connected with the history of the Reformation, and as setting forth, in striking colours, that union of religious zeal and feudal violence by which its triumphs were at first achieved. One of the most learned, upright, and liberal of the servants of Popery, at the period when Knox was attacking and levelling its strongholds, was Quentin Kennedy, uncle of the Earl of Cassilis, and Abbot of Crossraguel ; and after the publication of several tracts on the controversy raised by the doctrines of the Reformer, he, in the year 1561, proclaimed himself, in his chapel of Kirk- oswald, ready to defend the mass against any one who would im- pugn it, — ^a challenge which Knox failed not to accept of. After a very interesting correspondence about the place of meeting, Knox insisting on M possible publicity, and the abbot objecting to this, on the grounds of desiring to avoid tumult, and his pre- ference of a limited audience, as in all respects better fitted to judge fairly of the matters in dispute ; they at length agreed to meet in the house of the Provost of Maybole, with forty persons on each side, and notaries to record their arguments and proceed- ings. Accordingly, on the 28th day of September, these champions, accompanied with their several retinues, including several of the nobles and gentry of the country, entered Maybole, and met in a dingy-panelled room, in the house of the provost, which still re- mains, and is now occupied as the tavern of the Red Lioo. Their meeting was characteristic. Knox immediately suggest- ed the propriety of commencing the proceedings with prayer; and, on the abbot being offended at the proposal, he would yet in nowise be stayed, and he and his followers had of course to give audience. The abbot seems soon to have been subdued by the power and fervency of Knox's supplications, and honestly yielding to his feelings, he said at the close, ^^ Be my faith, it is well said." The controversy turned chiefly on the priesthood MAYBOLE. 357 of Melcbisedec, as bearing on the sacrifice of the mass, prefigur- ed, according to the Papists, by his offering of bread and wine. There was, however, notwithstanding the learning and acuteness displayed on both sides, a good deal of quibbling and tedious altercation ; and after the dispute -had been prolonged for three days, without ever embracing any of the great points between the contending parties, the noblemen and gentry, cooped up in a small apartment, and ilUsupplied with suitable entertainment and ac« commodation, withdrew, and the dispute never was resumed. But although the meeting brought out nothing new ^touching the matter in dispute, it was not without its influence in forward- ing the great work of the Reformation. Public attention could not fail to be directed by such a conference to the enlightened views and the holy purposes of Knox ; and a lively sense of the . services which he did to their forefathers, has descended to their children of the present day. The inhabitants of Maybole have instituted a ^^ Knox Club," which holds a triennial festival, at which men of all parties meet, to testify their gratitude for their deliver- ance from the domination of Rome, and their seciure enjoynoent of Protestant principles, achieved for them by Knox and his coad- jutors.* But while Popery was thus shaken by the weapons of reason and of truth, there were many altogether indifferent to the Pro- testant cause, who were yet ready to join in the attack on the faU ling fisibric of the church, for the purpose of seizing on its revenues and power ; and I have next to relate, as an instance of this, one of the most remarkable scenes recorded in provincial history. Quentin Kennedy was succeeded in his office of Abbot of Cross- raguel by Allan Stewart, and the barbsirous treatment to which he was subjected, to wring from him the titles of his property, forms a striking part of the " History of the Kennedys.'* The most graphic account, however, of the transaction is given by Richard . Bannatyne in his ^* Memoriales," which is quoted by Mr Pitcairn in his excellent notes ; and it may also be added, that every part of Bannatyne's narrative is distinctly confirmed by the abbot's own statements in his ^^ bill of supplication to the Lords of Privy-Coun- cil." Gilbert, fourth Earl of Cassilis, appears to have been a man of most rapacious and unscrupulous character. He had already, by forgery and murder, possessed himself of the abbacy of Glen- * See the reprint of Uie origina] work of Knox referred to, and Dr M*Crie*s liifc of the Reformer, where a very distinct account of the disputation is to be found. 338 AYRSHIHE. luce ; and he only waited a proper opportunity to attach Cross- raguel, lying in his vicinity, to his estates. Allan Stewart, the abbot, who lived under the protection of the Laird of Bargany, was at length, under hospitable pretences, enticed to leave his safeguard^ and to pass some days in Maybole with Thomas Ken- nedy, brother of the Earl, from whence he was taken to the Castle of Dunure, the original seat of the family, and the ruins of which still stand gloomily on a rock, whose base is washed by the sea on the western boundary of the parish. But we give the words of the original account : * Efter the which the said Mr Allane passed with quyet com- pany to visie the place and boundes of Croceraguall, whairof the said Erie being surelie advertised, determined to put in practeis the tyrany which long before he had conceaved. And so, as king of the countrie, apprehendit the said Mr Allane, and carried him to the house of Dunure, where for a seasone he was honourablie en- treated (gif a prisoner can think ony interteanment pleasing :) but after that certaine dayis were spent, and that the Erie culd not ob* tene the fewis of Croceraguall according to his awin appetite, he determined to prove gif a collatione could work that, which neather dennor nor supper could doe of a long tyme. And so, the said Mr Allane was carried to a secret chalmer ; with him passed the ho- nourable Erie, his worschepful brother, and sic as was appointed to be servantis at that banquet In the chalmer there was a grit iron chimlay, under it a fyre : other grit provesione was not sene. The first cours was, ^ my Lord Abbot (said the Erie) it will pleis you confess heir, that with your awin consent ye remane in my company, becaus ye darre not comitt you to the handis of utheris.' The Abbote answerit, * Wald ye, my Lord, that I should mak a ma- nifest leising, for your pleasour ? The treuth is, my Lord, it is against my will that I am heir ; neither yet have I ony pleasour in . your company.' — * Bot ye sail remane with me at this tyme,* said the Erie. — < I am notable to resist your will and pleasour,' said the • Abbote, * in this place.' — * Ye man then obey me !' said the Erie. And with that were presented unto him certane letteris to subscry ve, amonges which there was a fyve yeare tack and a 19 yeare tack, and a charter of feu of all landis of Croceraguall, with all the clausses necessaire for the Erie to haist him to hell ! For gif adul- terie, sacriledge, oppressions, barbarous creweltis, and thift heap- ed upon thift diserve hell^ the great King of Carrick can no more MAYBOLE. 359 eschape bell, for ever, nor the imprudent Abbot eschaped the fyre for a cessone, as foUowes. ^ Efter that the Erie espyed repugnance, and that he culd not come to his purpose be fair means, he comandit his coockis to pre- pare the banquet And so first, they fleed the scheip, that is, they took of the Abbotis cleathes, even to his skyn : And nixt, they band him to the chimlay, his leggis to the one end and his armes to the uther ; and so they began to bait the fyre, sometymes to his but- tockis, sometymes to his leggis, sometymes to his shulderis and armes. And that the rest suld not bume, but that it might rost in soppe, they spared not flan&bing with oyle. (Lord luik thou to sic creweltie.) And that the crying of the miserable man suld not be hard, they closed his mouth, that the voice myght be stopped. In that torment they held the poore man, whill that oft-tymes he cry- ed, * for Godis sake to despatch him : for he had as mekle gold in his awn purse, as wad buy poulder aneugh, to shorten his paine.' The famous King of Carrick, and his coockes, perceiving the rost to be aneugh, comandit it to be tane fra the fyre, and the Erie him- iself began the grace in this manor : * Benedicite Jesus, Maria ! You are the most obstinate man that ever I saw ! Gif I had knowin that ye had been so stubbome, I wold not for a thousand crownis handled you so J I never did so to man befoir you.' And yet, he returned to the same practeis, within two days, and ceassed not till that he obteaned his formest purpose ; that is, that he had gotten all his pieces subscryvit, alsweil as ane half-rosted hand culd do it !'* It is impossible not to connect these events together, as alike in- dicative of the tottering state of Popery* Abbot Quentin would have scorned the idea of defending his religion, if Knox had not made him feel that it was sinking beneath his feet, and Cassilis would not thus unjustly have asssdled his successor if he had not witnessed the decay of the faith which his property had been given to support, and it hence happened in this as in many other cases, that what zeal for religious liberty began, ra{)acity for the proper- ty of the church completed. * I now turn to the state of society during this period, and am able, from the history of the Kennedys and other sources, to produce from the annak of the parish of Maybole, some of the most vivid illustrations of these olden times. On the farm of west Enoch, a short way from Lady Corse, and on the soath side of a small burn * S«e Bannatync Journal in Mr Graham DalyelPs " lllugtrations of Scottish His- tory,** and Notes and Illustrations to the Historjr of the Kennedjs, &c 360 AYRSHIRE. that dows down the valley, there is a curious mound of earth and stones, nearly opposite to Bogside, which has always been regard- ed as the locality of some warlike exploit ; and the author of the old history referred to, has connected with it, by a description so gra- phic as not to be mistaken, a story of ruthless violence and most tragic interest. The feuds between the Earls of Cassilis and the Lairds of Bar* , gany had been of long continuance, and were scarcely healed, till by some new act of treachery or violence they broke out anew. On the 11th day of December 1601, the Earl of Cassilis hav- ing learned that the Laird of Bargany was to ride from the town of Ayr to his own mansion on the water of Girvan, attended only by a few followers, determined to waylay and attack the party. He accordingly left his castle of Maybole with 200 armed followers, and took his station at the Lady Corse, about half a-mile north of the town. The Laird of Bargany, with his small retinue, soon ap- peared at the Brochloch, on the. opposite side of the valley, and seeing the Earl thus attended, said to bis men that he desired no feud, and would not threw himself in the Earl's way. He accord- ingly led them down the north bank of the rivulet by Bogside, thinking that in this way he might prosecute his route homewards without coming into collision at such disadvantage with his enemy. The Earl, however, determined- to avail himself of his superior force, followed down the south side, and coming to some ** feal dikes," which offered a good support to the fire-arms of his fol- lowers, they immediately began to discharge them at Bargany and his men. * ^ Bargany finding that he could not avoid the rencontre, crossed the burn; but on reaching the south side of it, he perceived that none had ventured to follow him ^^ but the Lairdes of Auchendrayue and Cloncaird, James Bannatyne and Edward Irwing;" and on observing this, he turned round and said, ^' Gude sirs, we are ower few !" They n^ertheless defended themselves with great bravery, and wounded or slew the first of the assailants ; but, overpowered with superior numbers, Auchendrayne was ere long ^^ shott and hurte in the kernellis of the thie, and his horse also : James Ban- natyne's horse was slayne : Edward Irwing, the peadge, was slayne be ane straike of ane lanse. Bot now," continues our author, who * At no distant period a ** ieal dike" stretched along the side of tlie small burn near to the mound referred to» and probably formed a part of it. The names of all the places mentioned by the old historian still' remain, and nothing can be more dis- tinct than the scene of the movements and onset i»hich he so spiritedly relates. MAYBOLE. 36 1 speaks with enthusiasm and eloquence of Bargany, '^ bot now, to speak of the nobill youthe, how gallantly he behaiffit hun selff, my penne can nocht writt the same ; for being bot this way accom- panyitt with thir fy we menne, thair was against him the number of 30 horsemenne, quha all geiff the charge and straikis to thir fywe. Yet quhan that thair wes of thame twa unhorssitt^and ane slayne, sa that their wes nane with him bot ane, yitt he wald nocht stay his curradge, bot raid through me Lordis menne, hard to me Lord, and cryit, ^ quhair is me Lord him selff ! Lett him now keep promise and brek ane trie !' " This challenge was unheed- ed, he was pressed from all side|, and at length was basely struck from behind) while he was gallantly defending himself against his assailants. The weapon went ^' through the craig and through the thropill," and thus, mortally wounded, he was conveyed to May- bole, where my Lord, as " Judge Ordinar" of the country, deter- mined to put him to death if he showed any symptoms of recovery. He was, however, carried from thence to Ayr, and died in twenty- three hours. He appears to have been a person of great promise, and to have been held in high estimation, and his character is thus depicted by the old historian : *^ He was the brawest manne that was to be gotten in ony land; of hiche stataur, and weill maid; his hair blak, bott of ane cumlie feace ; the brawest horsemanne, and the best at all pastymis. For he was feerse and feirry, and wonder nembill. He was about the age of 25 yieris quhane he was slayne, bot of his aige the maist wyise he mycht be ; for gif he had tyme to had experianse to his witt, he had been by his mar- rawis." The details of this murderous deed are not more characteristic of the times than the impunity with which it was passed over. It was, indeed, of too flagrant a nature to be left unnoticed, even in the <* Judge Ordinar ;" but my Lady of Cassilis, who had friends at court, rode to Edinburgh, and obtained his Majesty's favour to her husband, who '^ gott this mukill grantit, that my Lord suld cum hemself, and deall with the thesaurer for his escheitt ;" — ^< and by reason," as the historian farther informs us, ^^ of ten thousand markis" given to that important functionary, *^ there was obtenit to me Lord ane act of counsall, makand all that me Lord had done gude service to the King !" It must, however, be remarked, that our author is on all occa- sions partial to Auchendrane, who had married the daughter of old Bargany, the father of the youth who thus fell ; and it will be 362 AYRSHIRE. seen, that Sir W. Scott, in his prefiitory notice to the tragedy of Auchendrane, relates the circumstances more favourably to the Earl of Cassilis. Out of the events of this bloody action arose the series of dark and tragical deeds on which Sir Walter founded his tragedy. Auchendrane, tP revenge the death of Bargany and his own wound, on being apprized by Sir Thomas Kennedy of CuUayne of his in- tention to visit Edinburgh, instigated a party of his followers to waylay him at the place he bad appointed for a friendly meeting, where they accordingly found and murdered him. Auchendrane was strongly suspected of being the instigator of this crime, but he boldly denied all knowledge of CuUayne's journey, and saw that no evidence of his guilt could be produced, if he could only keep out of the way the messenger who had given him notice of the place of meeting. It so happened, that the person who brought the message of CuUayne to Maybole transmitted it from thence to Mure by the hands of a poor student of the name of Dalrymple, who in consequence became the object of his fears. Notwithstand* ing various places of confinement at Auchendrane and the Isle of Arran, and even his removal to the low countries, where he served in Buccleuch's regiment for five or six years, Dalrymple still re- turned to the country, and Mure determined to trust no longer to temporary expedients, resolved upon his death. He was accord- ingly enticed by a vassal of Mure's, James Bannatyne, to his house at Chapeldonan, a solitary spot on the sea shore, and there, at midnight, by the elder and younger Mures, was murdered and buried in the sand. The hasty and imperfect sepulture was immediately undone by the advancing tide, and they had re- course to the expedient of carrying the body out to sea, in the hope that the wind, which blew strongly from the shore, would remove for ever from their coasts the evidence of their crime. But Pro- vidence ere long brought it back to the very spot of the murder, and the public indignation was soon directed towards Mure, whose tamperings with Dalrymple had formerly been noticed. His fears were in consequence transferred to Bannatyne, whom, in his turn, he and his son attempted to murder ; but Bannatyne being pot upon his guard, eluded their stratagems. He soon, however, found his life so miserable, at once from the persecution of the Mures and the power of his own conscience, that he confessed his crime, and revealed all the circumstances of the foul transaction in which he had been an accomplice. The Mures, against whom the Kin^ MAYBOLE. 363 had become already strongly prejudiced, and whom he had sub- jected to rigorous imprisonment, were brought to the Bar, pro- nounced guilty, and executed amid general execration. The pub- lic feeling on this occasion is not less illustrative of the «charac- ier of the times than the leniency with which such deeds as the slaughter of Bargany were viewed. The chivalry and pride of fa- mily feuds threw a splendour over the latter, in which their crimi- nality was forgotten ; while in the former case, the absence of all such garniture permitted the natural horror, which cold and deli- berate murder excites in the human breast, to come into its full operation. The ruins of the Castle of Auchendrane are still to be traced on the banks of the Doon, near to Monkwood Bridge, on the low road from Ayr to Maybole ; but the last of the family of the Mures long ago died in circumstances of the greatest poverty. The judgments of Heaven have, indeed, in their case, been visibly and awfully displayed. One after another perished in meanness and marked disgrace, and their lands passed into the hands of others. • Eminent Charctcters.-^Dv Macknight, the author of many stan- dard works, was admitted minister of Maybole in the year 1753; and while he discharged the duties of the parish most con- scientiously, and with great acceptance, for sixteen years, he also published during that time the ^^ Harmony," and the '^ Truth of the Gospel Histories," the former in 1756, and the latter in 1763. He was succeeded by Dr Wright, who was also held in great estimation, and who published a volume of sermons. The late Lord Alloway, so distinguished as a Judge in the Court of Session, resided during the vacations at Blairston, on the banks of the Doon, and took much delight in beautifying a place of great natural amenity. He was held in high estimation by all ranks in the parish. Land-aumers. — The chief land-owners are. The Marquis of Ailsa ; T. F. Kennedy of Dunure ; Sir James Fergusson of Kil- kerran; Elias Cathcart of Auchendrane; Quentin Kennedy of Drummellan ; Sir David Hunter Blair ; W. Craufurd of Doon- side ; George M. Torrance, Grange ; John Fergusson of Monk- wood. * Pitcairn*8 Ciiroinal Trials.— Sir W. Soott*s Introduction to the Tragedy aC Auchendrane, and the Hii$torie of the Kennedys. 364 AYRSHIRE. Parochial Registers. — The earliest eatry of a birth is in January 1712; and the register of births is continued regularly from that date down to the present day. The register of proclamations of banns and marriages is of a much more recent date, and does not seem to have been accurately kept. The earliest date of minutes of session is December 1777. A very accurate register of deaths, and the age and the diseases of the deceased, has been kept for the last few years; and the mode of furnishing a document so im- portant is at the same time so simple, that its general adoption is much to be desired. A small fee leads the church-officer to make the requisite inquiries at every funeral. The result is given into the kirk-session every Sabbath after, sermon, and is then entered into a book. If there is any defect in the information, the elder best acquainted with the relatives of the deceased makes farther inquiry, and reports to the succeeding meeting. In so far as the parish registers may be depended upon, the average births for the last seven years have been 151 ; marriages, 51 ; deaths, 135. Antiquities* — -The ruins of several religious houses are still to be traced in different parts of the parish. The walls of the church of Kirkbride, on the farm of Dunduff, are distinct, the surround- ing burying-ground is still used, and an adjoining field bears the name of the Priest's Land. At Auchendrane and elsewhere, the rudera of similar erections were visible when Abercrum- mie wrote his Journal. Kirkbride has generally been consider, ed as a parish united to Maybole, but, being unable to find "any notice of the union, I am rather inclined to think that it and the other ruins referred to were chapels attached to the collegiate church of Maybole. This last was an establishment of consider- able importance, and had a rector and three prebends. It was endowed out of the provost and priest's lands in the parish of Kirk- michael, which fell into the hands of the Earl of Cassilis, upon the dissolution of the college at the Reformation. The Black House and Well Trees still remain of the residences of the priests, and the orchards that surrounded the others are well known. The collegiate church is used as a burying-place by the family of Cas- silis, and others who formerly contributed to its repair. It was, nevertheless, allowed to fall into a most ruinous and filthy condi- tion, from which it was only rescued by the public spirit of Mr Andrews, and the inhabitants of Maybole, who a few years ago. MAYBOLE. 365 by subscription^ surrounded it with a wall, and tastefully laid out and planted the enclosure. There are throughout the parish the remains of a great many castles, the ancient seats of those feudal chiefs who figure in the history of the Kennedys, and in the civil broils of the times. Be- sides the Castle of Maybole, the former residence of the Earls of Cassilis, and the principal part of which is still in excellent pre- servation, there are, more or less entire, the Castles of Newark, Greenan, Dunduff, Dunure, and Kilhenzie ; while those of Bridg- end or Doonside, Smithstowne, Sauchrie, Craigskean, Beoch, Garryhome, Glenayes, Brochlock, and Dalduff, are only to be traced in a few ruinous walls. There are also within the town of Maybole several remains of its former consequence and splendour, when, as the provincial ca- pital it was resorted to in winter by many of the principal families in Carrick. Besides the dwellings of the ecclesiastics and the Earl of Cassilis, commonly designated in these days the King of Carrick, the following houses of the gentry still remain ; the pre- sent tolbooth, the town residence of the Lairds of Blairquhan ; the house of Sir Tliomas Kennedy of Culzean, now belonging to Mr Niven of Kirkbride ; the house of Kennedy of Ballemore, in the Kirk Wynd ; the Garden of Eden, the house of the abbots of Crossraguel, &c. extending, according to some, to the number of twenty-eight The civil jurisdiction of Carrick was a bailliarie, belonging he- ritably to the Earls of Cassilis ; and Maybole derived an additional degree of consequence from being the ordinary seat of the courts of justice, when the most important cases were tried, and the pu- nishment of death frequently inflicted. The Gallow Hill still points out the place of execution ; and there are people alive who re- member those who could tell as a tale of their youth, the history of criipinals whom they saw suffer. On an eminence, over the farm of Trees, there is a very distinct encampment ; and traces of similar enclosures, by mounds of earth, are visible in other places, and more particularly near the Castle of Dunduff. It is common to designate them as Roman Camps ; but they appear of far too inconsiderable dimensions to be con- nected with the history of that great people, and are far more like- ly the remains of small forts erected by the Irish, who frequently overran the country, and many of which, of the very same form and construction, are still found in Ireland. 366 AYRSHIRE. That the Romans traversed the parish there can, however, be no doubt The great road passes through the parishes of Dalrymple and Ayr, at no great distance ; and a spear head of bronze, shaped like a saddler's knife, and made by incurvated edges to fit upon a shaft, dug up in the &rm of Drumbeg, and a small image of the same metal representing justice with her equal weights, found in the farm of Drumshang, and now both in my possession, attest their presence, in the monuments they furnish of their wars and their superstition. Near the Castle of Dunduff, a coin of Albert and Elizabeth of Bruges and Brabant, about the size of a crown piece, was lately turned up by the plough. It bears no date, but as they reigned about 1680, its existence in that locality may readily be accounted for in many ways. It was then common for Scotsmen to enlist in the service of the low countries, and it may have been part of thn earnings of years of hardship, brought back to his native spot by some veteran soldier. Smuggling was also extensively carried on, and it was not uncommon also to pay soldiers serving in the coun- try in foreign money. Tumuli containing bones, of which there is a good specimen on the farm of St Murrays, are common. Abercrummie mentions many remains of Catholic superstition, which are now almost forgotten. St Helen's Well, to the north of Baloch Mount, was long famous for the cure of unthriving children, at the change of the quarter, and more particularly at May-day, and was greatly resorted to even at a recent date. Pennyglen's Cross Well, also enjoyed great reputation for the cure of cows *^ taken with mure-ill," and was carried even to great distances, as ^* by drinking thereof, they are healed." Modem Buildings. — The church is a plain structure, with a steeple in the worst possible taste. By a recent repair the in- terior has been rendered comfortable and neat. There is no other building worthy of notice, but it may still be consolatory to observe, that, notwithstanding the decline which this would indi- cate from the former grandeur of Maybole, there is not one of the ancient houses of the gentry referred to, which is not far surpassed in accommodation and comfort by the houses of the respectable in* habitants of the present day. III. — Population. Ancient State. — The ancient state of the population of this pa- rish must have been liable to much disturbance and fluctuation. In common with other parts of Carrick, it was traversed by the Ro* J MAYBOLE. 367 mans, who conquered the aborigines. It was then successively overrun by the Northumbrians, the Scots, and the Irish. It was afterwards infested by the Danes and Norwegians, and by the English during the struggles of Walkce and Bruce. The feuds of hostile chieftains, the struggles of the Reformation, and the defence of presbytery against the persecutions of the house of Stuart, suc- ceeded ; and in 1676 particularly, there appears to have been a fearful loss of life. Yet, notwithstanding all these causes of dis- turbance, there are traces of a considerable population from very remote times, in the ruins, cairns, and marks of culture, which are found in every part of the parish. In the palmy days of Popery, the town must have had a considerable population, from the large ecclesiastical establishment of the Collegiate Church, with all its officers and dependents, as well as from the residence of the gen- try referred to under the head of Ciril History. After the Refor- mation, and the great changes in the state of society consequent upon it, there appears to have been a decrease of the population from that period to the close of the last century. From that time to the present, the numbers have increased both in the town and country ; in the former they have been doubled, amounting now, from the influx of Irish weavers, to 4000 ; while in the country the spirit of agricultural improvement has also caused an increase, and where the population is between 2000 and 3000. There are none of the nobility or large proprietors who reside within the bounds of the parish. Their mansion-houses are for the most part in the neighbouring parishes ; those that are within it are empty or let ; and there are only five proprietors of land of the value of L. 50 and upwards, actually resident The peasantry may be generally stated to be of athletic and ac- tive habits, decidedly intelligent and moral, attached, with a very few exceptions, to the Established Church, and possessed in con- sequence of that steady and rational piety, which even in periods of great excitement has kept them in peace, and rendered voluntary- ism itself unknown, or altogether uninteresting in this district. They speak the expressive language of Burns, are well clothed, and, upon the whole, keep their cottages in a cleanly state, although it is to be lamented that many should still be so deficient in this respect. There are 4 deaf and dumb persons, 2 or 3 fatuous, and about the same number occasionally insane, but there has not been for many years any one in a state to require constant confinement in an asylum. 368 AYRSHIRE. Smuggling had at one time made considerable encroachment on the morals of the people, but it has now for many years been almost totally abandoned, and beyond a few casks of Arran water from the opposite shored, and a little soap from Ireland, is unknowil. The country people upon the whole enjoy the ordinary comforts of life, and are contented in their circumstances. The popular tion in the town is in many respects very different. The intro* duction of manufactures has raised many in the scale of affluence and comfort, but it has led many of the operatives into habits of dissipation, and the Irish in particular, although there are ho« nourable exceptions, are but too generally drunken and filthy in their persons and houses. There are a great many poachers. The number of public-houses is a reproach to all concerned in main- taining them, and pawnbroking, their invariable attendant, has increased to an alarming extent, and threatens, with the spirit-shop, the ruin of the poorer classes. ' The number residing in the town by a census lately taken by the kirk-session is very nearly 4000. There are no villages of any consequence, and the rest of the population, amounting to about 2400, are distributed over the different farms. IV. — Inddstuy. Agriculture. — The extent, variety of surface, and great recent improvements, combine to render this parish highly important as an agricultural district The total number of acres, as taken from the returns made by the different farmers, is. Total imperial acres, - - 20,681 Of these arable, - - 16,684 Under plantation, •> - 948 Hill pasture and moorland, - 2400 Meadow, ... 564 20,681 The arable land consists, partly of a light soil, which produces excellent crops of potatoes, turnips and oats ; and partly of a strong clay soil, which yields upon being thoroughly drained heavy crops of wheat The hill pasture and moorland occur chiefly on the summits and declivities of the Brown Carrick range of hills, and recent ex- periments have shewn, that even much of these might be profits ably improved, more especially with a view to superior permanent pasture. The farmers occupying them are generally men of in^ telligence and enterprise, and have all done more or less in this species of improvement The efforts of the late Mr M^Janet 4 MAVBOLE. 369 of Drumshaug, are of sufficient magnitude and importance to entitle them to a particular notice. The &rm of Drumshang consists of upwards of 1000 imperial acres, 600 of which are, or rather were, in the state of moor, and the scanty herbage found among the heather that covered the greater part of it, may be inferred from the fiict of the whole being valued at from 3s. to 4s. per acre. The tract selected by Mr M* Janet for his experiments was a part of this, lying on trap rock, and about 750 feet above the level of the sea. Little drainage was required, and he.there* fore commenced his operations by stripping off the surface, burn- ing it, and then spreading the ashes over the soil. He afterwards laid upon it 20 bushels of bone-dust per acre, and in the usual way prepared it for, and sowed it with, turnips. They proved a full and excellent crop, and were consumed entirely on the ground with sheep. The next season he sowed the whole with oats and barley with grass-seeds. The oats were an abundant crop, ave- raging seven quarters per acre; the barley was rather light, yield- ing only about four quarters. The grass over the whole came up thick and fine, and is now in pasture, which is considered well worth L. 1 per acre. The tract thus reclaimed was considerably above 100 acres, and the whole being done in two years, the Highland Society conferred on Mr M^Janet their gold medal, for the greatest extent of waste land in Scotland brought into cultivation within the shortest time. The expenses attendant on such ope- rations, appear, however, too great to be borne by the tenant, and the poor return for agricultural produce, threatens to arrest the speed of the plough, and to diminish rather than increase the amount of cultivated land. In such circumstances, too, an immediate increase of produce be- comes essential to the farmer, and instead of looking to the tardy returns of reclaimed waste, he is led to apply his capital to the more perfect improvement of his arable land by furrow-draining. This process is very expensive also, costing when done, either with stones or tiles, from L. 5 to L. 7 per acre. But landlords seem peculiarly disposed to aid their tenants in this great and per- manent improvement, either by advancing the whole capital re- quired, and charging a per centage of additional rent, or by con- tributing a proportion of the expense, and leaving the farmer the whole benefit during the remainder of his lease. From all I have seen and heard both from landlords and tenants, I consider fur- row-draining upon clayey and retentive soils as the grand improve- AYR. A a 370 AYRSHIRE. ment in recent agriculture, and which promises, above all other things, to compensate for lowness of price by increase of produce. The actual rental of the parish amounts to nearly L. 19,(K)0, making the average rent per acre between ISs. and 19s. Leases are of nineteen years length. With the exception of a few farms, ranging from 200 to 1000 acres, where the farm-houses are com- modious and comfortable, and the offices substantial and exten- sive, the greater number of the farms are small, many from only 40 to 100 acres; and these, which are generally cultivated by the farmer and his family, who work hard and live plainly, have, with few exceptions, very poor accommodations, both in dwelling-houses and offices. Grross Amount of Maw Prodttce. — It is extremely difficult to get accurate returns under this head ; but the following results are taken from reports procured from each of the farmers, and are, I have no doubt, near to the truth. The prices were calculated at about the average of the last three years. Wheat, - L. 10,510 Oats, - 9946 Beans, - 1392 Barley, . 219 Potatoes, - 6257 Turnips, - 5202 Cultivated hay, - 4013 Meadow hay, - 563 Pasture, 9100 L. 47.202 There are besides small quantities of beet ; about L. 300 per annum for orchards and garden ground ; about L. 50 per annum for wood. There is a salmon fishery at the mouth of the Doon, of which a notice will be found in the account of the parish of Ayr. At Dunure there is also a small sea-fishing establishment, but with respect to the fish taken there, and their appearances on our coasts, I have also to refer to the account of the parish of Ayr. ZrftJtf-S^ocA.— The breed of cattle is almost exclusively the Ayr- shire, which has attained so much celebrity for the purposes of the dairy, and which seems also well adapted for the butcher-market An attempt has been recently made to introduce the short-horned breed for the latter purpose, and I have seen very fine animals of that spe- cies, and also of the cross between it and the Ayrshire, and which both attained to a much greater weight than the native cattle ever reach. On inquiry, however, I found that such had uniformly re- quired a great deal of extra feeding, and I have little doubt that MAYBOLE. 371 the generality of our farmers will have as much weight of beef, at a much less amount of expense, at the end of the year, from the feeding of the Ayrshire cattle, Vhich seem in every respect best fitted to the nature and powers of the soi]. The sheep fed in the parish, which are comparatively few in number, are chiefly of the black-faced and Cheviot breeds, although, on some of the best farms, the Leicester breed have also been in- troduced. Manufactures. — There are no manufacturing establishments of any consequence in the parish ; but, as has invariably happened on the west coast, the influences of Glasgow and the proximity of Ireland, have drawn to the town and every little hamlet a great population of hand-loom weavers. These are aU employed by the manufac- turers of Glasgow through the medium of a class of middle-men, called agents, and who, from the improvidence of the weavers, who are mostly Irish, and their practice of keeping shops and paying them in kind, are generally very prosperous. This system is in many respects calculated to depress the condition of the operative. He applies for goods to the agent, and gets into debt. He must then purchase at the agent's own price, and is generally in pover- ty. Yet, on the other hand, the extreme improvidence of the Irish renders them little capable of being entrusted with money ; their wages might all be expended on whisky ; and when the agents do not in any part pay them in it, a practice that cannot be too se- verely reprobated, the plan of giving articles of food and clothing instead of cash, is perhaps conducive to the welfare of their fami- lies. The transaction is, indeed, an infringement of the law of the land, and on this account some of the agents pay their weavers in money, but the truck system is easily followed by a shopkeeper without any direct violation of the statute for its prevention. It is very common for women to weave. Boys are put at an early age to the loom, and the hours of working are, more especially in times of depression, very long. I have known the weaver to labour, with little intermission, fourteen and sixteen hours a-day, and after all earn but the miserable pittance of 6s. or 7s. per week, a sum bare- ly adequate to support his family in the meanest way ; but at pre- sent a most favourable change has occurred, and every one, even with moderate exertion, may command all the comforts of life. It is, however, melancholy to observe how very often men frustrate by their vices the kindness of Providence. With prosperity, habits of idleness and drinking, which had been checked, have returned, 372 AYRSHIRE. and the sounds of riot are again heard in our streets, protracted on the morning of the Sabbath even till a late hour.* The effects produced by this influx of a large manufacturing po- pulation will be very diflFerently viewed, according to the different ways in which we may estimate the prosperity of a community. li^ in the utilitarian spirit of the times, we look upon wealth as the great ingredient of that prosperity, we must no doubt regard this influx as an unmingled good. Every week brings from Glasgow, at the present time, in payment for work, from L. 500 to L. 700, every farthing of which is immediately expended, and this has unques- tionably had the effect, not only of enriching our shopkeepers, but also of producing a demand for agricultural produce, which has be- nefited the farmers, and raised the value of land in every part of the parish. But if, on the other hand, we regard wealth as a very secondary object, and view all human events, as good or evil, ac- cording to their bearing on moral and religious character, we must make great deductions from the foregoing estimate of its advan- tages. The great proportion of the population in question are dis- solute in their habits ; few of them attend any place of worship ; they spend the Sabbath in wandering over the fields and on the sea shore, and desecrate the day by their irregularities. Our na- tive population have no doubt kept themselves very much apart from their society, — a circumstance which, if it has tended on the one hand, to perpetuate their ignorance and immorality, has, on the other hand, counteracted in a considerable degree the contamina- tion of their example. Considerable exertions, however, have lately been made to ad- vance, more especially the young among them, in knowledge and religion ; and it is hoped that they may ere long occupy a higher status in the community. Agricultural Association* — There was instituted in the year 1797 an association for the improvement of agriculture, which holds its meetings at Maybole, and the beneficial influences of which are to be observed in the good farming and excellent stock of the sur- rounding district It is called the Carrick Farmers' Society, and numbers among its members the nobility and gentry, the great pro- * Since writing the above, a striking proof of the fluctuating nature of nianufnc- tures has been am>rded. The supply of webs from Glasgow has been greatly curtail- ed, and prices lowered. IVJany of the weavers have been thrown idle, and reduced to a state of starvation. What they call a dull has set in, and the heritors and inhabi- tants of the parish have had to come forward for their relief. The sutemtnt in the subsequent paragraph referred to the state of things two or three montlis ago. 3 J MAYBOLE. 373 portion of the respectable farmers, and several of the clergy of this division of the county. Four regular meetings are held in the year, and there are commonly two exhibitions of stock of different kinds, when premiums, voted by the society, and two pieces of plate, an- nually given by the Marquis of Ailsa and Sir James Fergusson of Kilkerran, are competed for. The Society also awards premiums for the best management of green crops, and the neatest operations in ploughing and other field labour. Essays on subjects connect- ed with agricultural improvements are read and discussed at the meetings, and a grant is annually made from the funds for the pur- chase of books, models, or new implements of husbandry. Assist- ance is also given to members who may have fallen into poverty, and to the families of such as may have been left in that condition. Its affairs are altogether most judiciously managed ; its meetings in every respect most beneficial ; and, notwithstanding the liberal sums given every year for the various purposes referred to, there is at present a capital of L. 575. V. — Parochial Economy. MarkeUTown. — Maybole is a market-town. The market is held on Thursday, and is limited to the sale of butter, eggs, and a few of the minor articles of country produce. The grain raised in the parish is generally taken to the town of Ayr, about nine miles distant. Means of Communication, — There is a post-office in Maybole. The length of turnpike roads is 28 miles 6 fur. poles, 8 yds. A mail-coach passes daily through the town, to and from Glas- gow, and Port- Patrick. Two stage-coaches run twice in the week to and from Ayr. 'I'he fences of dry-stone dikes, or more generally of thorn and beech hedges, are in good order, and bridges, embankments, and all connected with the public roads, are in the best condition. There is a small harbour at Dunure, where there are a few fishing-boats, and where lime and bone-dust are frequently landed in vessels, freighted by the farmers from Ireland, but it is getting fast into a state of dilapidation, and if not soon repaired will be- come utterly useless. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situate at the east entrance to the town, and though extremely convenient for its in- habitants, and those of the southern and adjacent parts of the country parish, is still very far removed from many localities to- wards the east and north, and more especially from the whole of 374 AYRSHIUE. the country on the western and northern parts of Brown Carridt- hill, many places there being from five to nine miles distant by the road. It was built in 1808, and the last repair by which the interior was much improved, was made in 1830. It accommodates from 1200 to 1300, Twelve sittings only, and these in corners and passages, are free and set apart for the poor. The manse was built in 1806. It is small, and in the usual style of manse archi- tecture, but it has been substantially built, and has not hitherto re- quired any expensive repairs. The glebe consists of about nine Scots acres, and is worth L. 30 per annum. The stipend is 20 chalders of victual, half meal and half barley, with an allowance of L.20 for communion elements. There are as yet no chapels, but a preaching station has of late been established in the shore district, which is so far distant from the parish church ; and it is hoped that a church will soon be erected and endowed in that quarter. An additional church for the accommodation of the weaving population in the town is also much required. There is a chapel belonging to the United Se- cession body in the town, the minister of which, the Rev. Mr Thomson, receives a stipend of about L. 100 per annum, a very inadequate remuneration for his worth and services. There is also a small chapel in connection with the Methodists, but no regular minister, and the Irish Catholics and Episcopalians have the oc- casional services of the ministers of these persuasions in Ayr. Taking the population at 6362, there are belonging to the Es- tablished Church 5033, and of the 1329 belonging to other de- nominations, the following is the distribution : United Secession, 548; Roman Catholic, 355; Church of England, 214; Metho- dist, 104; Relief, 54; Reformed Presbytery, 44; Antiburgher, 10. Divine service at the Established Church is generally well at- tended, and the average number of communicants is 1300. There is a society, named the Maybole Association, for religious purposes, supported chiefly by collections, made from time to time in the parish church and Secession meeting-house, and the most general application of the funds has been in donations to the Ayr and Edinburgh Bible Societies, from both of which most liberal supplies of Bibles and Testaments have been received for distri- bution among the poor. Collections for other claims, such as the Assembly's Missions, Church Extension, Education, and for purposes of local charity, are MAYBOLE. 375 made at convenient intervals at the church door, and may alto- gether amount to about L. 40 per annum. A tract society has been in vigorous operation for nearly two years, and its publications, which have always been favourably re- ceived, promise to be useful to the community. I must here notice an association, not strictly parochial, but con* nected in the same manner with all the parishes in Carrick, the Carrick Class, composed of the clei^ of the district, and the duty of giving some account of which has been assigned to me. This association has existed since the establishment of Presbytery in Scotland. The meetings of the clergy upon church matters ap- pear successively to have been called congregations and classes, before they were regularly constituted into presbyteries : and the Carrick Class, though it has frequently been proposed, having never been erected into a presbytery, has yet retained the old name^ and kept up its meetings, with occasional periods of interruption, down to the present day. Our proceedings have of course lost their business character, al- though something of the original purposes of the meeting may sometimes be discerned, in the members asking advice in difficul- ties, taking into their own hands business more immediately con- nected with the district, and even occasionally arranging little matters, which, when afterwards brought out in the presbytery,- will draw forth a good humoured notice of our clannish propensi- ties, and attempts at establishing, if not our original independence, at least an '^ imperium in imperio" ■ The great purposes of our meeting, however, are the mainte- nance and promotion of literary and professional attainments, good fellowship, and Christian harmony. With the exception of the months in which the sacrament is dispensed in the different pa- rishes, the members, according to a fixed rotation, meet in each other's manses, on the second Tuesday of every alternate month, at otie o'clock p. m. The minister in whose manse the meeting is held, opens it with prayer, and reads an essay on any literary, theological or ecclesiastical subject, which his own taste may have led him to choose. The members, according to seniority, then express their opinion of the essay, and their own views of the points treated of; and after any reply which the author may make, the meeting is closed with prayer, agreeably to the same rotation. The afternoon is spent with the family in social enjoyment, and members from a distance generally remain all night. i 376 AYRSHIRE. That these meetings accomplish some, or perhaps the most, important of these purposes, the kindly relations, unbroken by differences of party, in which the Carrick brethren have long lived, afford a most pleasing proof. Nor have they been abor- tive in a literary and professional view. Dr Macknight, for- merly alluded to as minister of Maybole, read the substance both of his Harmony and Truth of the Gospel histories as essays in the class, before sending them to the press ; and with- out presuming to say any thing directly of the present members, one of whom at least is well known to the church by his high character and useful publications ; the following list of subjects lately treated of will show, that they have not laid aside, amid their more sacred duties, those literary tastes and habits of study, which never fail to give additional influence to the clerical cha- racter : On the Interpretation of the Apocalypse, one of a Series, by Mr Inglis, of Kirkoswald ; Critical examination of the latter part of the 7th chapter of the Epistle to the Romans, by Dr Hill of Dailly ; Critical essay on the 19th verse of the dd chapter of 1st Peter, by Mr Blair of Colmonell ; On what has been denomi- nated the Golden Era of the Church, or Second Reformation, by Mr Wallace of Barr ; On the Etymology, and Scripture use of the Hebrew word D%"Tf>N by Mr Gray of Maybole ; On the pro- posal for a new form of Process, and the introduction of Trial by , Jury into the Church Courts, by Mr Paton of Straiten ; On the Deluge, by Mr Wallace of Dalrymple ; Whether the Election of Ministers by the People is a right founded on Scripture, by Mr Milroy of Ballantrae ; Outline of an argument for the Truth and Reasonableness of the peculiar doctrines of Christianity, by Mr Houston of Dalmellington ; On the authorship and original lan- guage of the Epistle to the Hebrews, Mr^M^Ewen of KirkmichaeL EducatUm. — Total number of schools in the parish, 13; of paro- chial, 1 ; supported by subscription, 1 ; free school-room, 2 ; un- endowed in any way, 9. English reading and grammar, writing and arithmetic, are taught in all the schools ; and in the parochial and three of the others, Latin, Greek, French, and geography. The parochial schoolmaster, at present Mr John Inglis, preacher of the Gospel, has the maximum salary ; an allowance of L.30 per annum for house rent, and L. 5 for school prizes, and the average amount of fees is L. 100. There is a general anxiety for the education of the young throughout the parish ; and since the establishment of the sub- MAYBOLK. 377 scription school for the poorer classes in the town, which has been very ably conducted by Mr Lennox, a greater desire for the in- struction of their children has sprung up among the Irish popu- lation, which promises to be attended with the happiest results. Literature, — There are subscription and circulating libraries in the town, and in the villages of Dunure and Calroy; and the parish school and Sabbath evening schools have small libraries attached to them. Charitable and other Institutions — Friendly Societies, The following list will show that a number of these important societies still exist ; many have been dissolved, and several are rather in a declining state. They have been of the very greatest advantage, and have enabled many families to maintain their independence in seasons of distress ; and it is to be regretted that erroneous calcu- lations at the first, and too liberal application of the funds at par- ticular conjunctures, should have shaken their stability and im- paired their usefulness: — Love and Unity, instituted in 1796, has of capital, L.54; Philanthropic, instituted in 1808, capital, L. 120; Caledonian, sixty-six members, instituted in 1818, capital, L. 140; Social and Humane, instituted in 1825, capital, L.84; Albion, sixty-six members, instituted in 1820, capital, L.8d; Benevolent Love and Unity Female, instituted in 1829; Friendly Female, instituted in 1810, capital, L.25. Saving Banks. — There was instituted in 1831, a savings bank for Maybole and the adjacent villages, which has continued to prosper to the present date, but it is much to be regretted that so few, especially of the hand-loom weavers, should have availed them- selves of its provisions. The following summary furnished by Mr Brown, the banker, will show the progress and state of the institution. No. of Cash paid to Sitmsdeporii^ Net balance depoai- depositors ed with int. to ofyearJy de- tors, with interest, depositors, posits, J 83 1. For year from 9th April 1831 (the period of its com- mencement,) ending 1st Jan. 1882, for Maybole and ad- jacent villages there were 119 L.26 18 9 L.400 8 L. 373 1 11 1832. For the year ending 1 st Jan. 1833, for Maybole and vici- nity, (after deducting from the number of the deposi- tors those of the previous year, who had withdrawn during the current year.) 129 209 7 9 357 5 147 12 8 1833. For the year Ist January 1834, (deducting as above) 170 251 9 6 425 4 173 3 10 378 AYRSHIRE. 1834. For the year ending 1st 1885, No. of Cash paid to Sums depotii' Nethalance depoti- depositor s ed with hiL to of yearly de- tort. wUh interest, depotUort. p9tUi, January 1835, (deducting as above.) - - 210 L.d40 8 L.46B 14 11 L.128 6 11 1835. For the year ending Ist January 1836, (deducting as above.) - - 255 443 16 1 616 7 7 172 U 6 1836. For the year ending Ist January 1837, (deducting as above.) - - 273 478 4 9" 636 1 10 157 17 2 The number of depositors (273) at 1st January 1837, may be classed as follows, viz. farm^servants, (male 26, female 44,) 70; domestic servants, 25 ; sewers, &c. 46 ; children, &c. 47 ; labour- ers, 28; weavers, 25; mechanics, &c« 17; not classed, 15. De- positors, 273; of whom there are males, 126 ; of females, 147 ; to- tal, 273 — having due to them at 1st January 1837, per state of account from bank, L. 1152, 14s. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is about 70; and the average sum al- lotted to each per week about Is. 4d. The annual amount of contributions is about L.230; L. 100 of which is raised by the ordinary collection at the church door, and another L. 100 by a voluntary contribution from the heritors, who are generally non-resident, and who in the payment of this sum probably give less than they would do, in the course of a re- gular attendance at church. The remaining L. 30 is made up of proclamation fees, collections at marriages, and private baptisms. If the general non-residence of the heritors, and the extent and condition of the population be considered, there can be no doubt that the poor in this parish are supported at as small an expense as in any other parish similarly situated. But it must not be con- cealed, that though among the native population there are a great many who would starve rather than ask charity, this does not re- sult from any general reluctance on the part of the poorer classes, especially among the Irish, to ask for parochial relief, but because they find in begging a more productive and agreeable mode of support, than in the pittance given by the kirk-session. I am quite sure that the fund publicly distributed bears a small proper^ tion to what is given e^ery year by the inhabitants of the town and country at their doors. Many fine things have been written in fa- vour of this mode of management, and it no doubt has its advan- tages ; but the extensive training to habits of public begging which it involves, cannot be estimated as a trifling drawback, when all MAYBOLE. 379 the demoraliziDg consequences of that practice^ particularly among the young, are taken into account. Prisons. — There is a prison attached to the town-hall, used chiefly as a lock-up house, till offenders are sent to the Ayr gaol. Fairs. — There are four held annually, the Candlemas Bel- tane, Lammas, and Hallow fairs, originally instituted for different purposes of merchandise, but now almost entirely limited to the hiring of servants* Innsy Sfc. — There are 50 inns and ale-houses in the parish, between 30 and 40 of which are in the town, and the others in the country, — a number far beyond what is required for legiti- mate purposes, and most prejudicial to the morals of the people. Fuel. — The fuel almost exclusively used is coaL The town and southern districts of the parish are generally supplied from the Girvan water-pits at Dalzellowby and Dalquharn, four and five miles distant, while the northern part is more frequently supplied from the Ayr water coal-field. The coal from the Girvan water is sold at from 7s. 6d. to 10s. per ton delivered. That from the Ayr field generally costs a little more, but is much superior in quality. MiSCELLAKBOUS OBSERVATIONS. The changes in the state of this parish since the publication of the last Statistical Acount are numerous and striking. It is little more than thirty years since wheat began to be par- tially cultivated ; it has only been generally raised within the last twenty years, and it now constitutes the chief and most valuable pro- duce of the land, and has been grown of a weight and quality equal to that of the Lothians. Within the last forty years, there was scarcely a hedge, the greater part of the land was in pasture, and the only crops were oats, bear, and a few peas and beans. The fields are now well enclosed and drained, and bear abundantly all kinds of agricul- tural produce. About that period, too, the cattle were of the Galloway breed, which have now been superseded by the Ayrshire, and which are found in as great perfection, both as to weight and symmetry, as in any other parish in the county. The eow painted by Mr Shiels for the Edinburgh University Agricultural Museum is in the stock of Mr Finlay of Lionston, in the immediate vicinity of the town. Some very curious details, illustrative of the progress of im- provement, were furnished by an inquiry lately made, for a legal 380 AYRSHIRE. purpose, into the former and present condition of an estate on the sea shore. Before the year 1780, there was not a fence beyond that of a low turf wall upon the whole property, and the houses were mere huts, thatched, and generally with gabels built of turf. The whole is now divided and enclosed, and the farm-houses and steadings are commodious, slated, and even handsome in their ap- pearance. But the following state of the rental, at the different dates referred to, affords the most striking proof of the change which has taken place. From the original document, it appears that the rent, at the earlier dates, consisted of so many pounds Scots, with small quantities of bear and meal, and a quantity of poultry ; but the value of the whole, calculated at the prices of the times, is here given in Sterling money. Yeart, Rents. In 1736, L. 172 4 11 1765, . 211 12 4 1785, . 346 10 d|^ ^ 1819, . 2157 4 The town of Maybole has also of late years been much im- proved. Access to it was formerly inconvenient and difficult, but, by the exertions of Mr Niven of Karkbride, who has always taken the greatest interest in the improvement of his native place, the streets have been opened by spacious roads to and from all quar- ters. The tradesmen are highly respectable ; the merchants are men of substance and intelligence ; and many of the shops are handsome and well stocked with every article of provisions and dress required by the town and neighbouring country. The change from a purely agricultural to a manufacturing po- pulation has, too, produced great alterations, some of the perni- cious effects of which have been elsewhere adverted to ; but we cannot doubt that, with proper means of improvement, the whole might finally be rendered matter of congratulation. Let the civil magistrate be vigilant in repressing crime ; — let him reduce to a moderate numiber the houses of public entertainment, and rigidly enforce good hours and orderly demeanour, more especially on the Sabbath day ; — ^let the ecclesiastical establishments be so adapted to the increased numbers, that the means of religious instruction and pastoral superintendence be provided for all ; — and let edu«o cation, under the directing care of the Church, be proportionally extended, and there can be no question that the ignorant and ir- religious located amongst us will be raised in the moral scale, and be succeeded at least by a better generation. September 1837. PARISH OF DAILLY. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. ALEXANDER HILL, D. D. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The name given to this parish, Dafy or Daillyy has probably arisen from its consisting principally of a dale or valley stretching along the banks of the river Girvan. Extent^ Sfc, — From north-east to south-west, the parish extends in the line of the river about 7 miles. It varies in breadth from 4 to 6 miles. Topographical Appearances. — The figure of the parish is an ir- regular oblong. It is bounded on the west and south-west by the parish of Girvan ; on the south by the parish of Barr, a great part of which, prior to 1650, belonged to the parish of Dailly; on the east by the parishes of Straiten and Kirkmichael ; and on the north- east and north by the parish of Kirkoswald. It lies nearly in the centre of Carrick, one of the three districts of Ayrshire. The hills on both sides of the valley are of very moderate height. There is much natural beauty in every part of it, from the wind- ing of the river, and the variety of the ground ; and its natural beauty has been greatly heightened by the improvements of mo- dern times. Although the extremity of this parish is nearly two miles distant from the sea coast, yet the Island of Ailsa, about fifteen miles west from the town of Girvan, is considered as belonging to Dailly, be- ing included in the barony of Knockgerran, a part of the Marquis of Ailsa's property, which lies in this parish. It is a huge rock, perhaps two miles in circumference at the base, and about 1)00 feet above the level of the sea. Seen from the south or north its shape is very much that of a cone. Its appearance from the east is more flattened. It is precipitous on all sides, and is accessible only on the north-east, where there is a small beach. The cliffs in several places are columnar. A considerable way up the rock are remains of buildings, supposed to have been a tower or castle. 382 AYRSHIRE. and a chapel. Very fine water is found on the rock, and near its summit There is little pasture on it Numberless flocks of birds frequent it, and particularly gannets or solan geese. It is chiefly from their feathers that the rent of the island is derived ; and it is only during the time that the birds are sought for on account of their feathers, that any one resides upon it There was recently a plan in agitation for making Ailsa a fishing-station, for the sup- ply of Glasgow and Liverpool, by means of the steam-boats which pass it regularly. Some buildings were commenced for the pur- pose, but the plan has not been carried into effect. Geology and Mineralogy. — The parish abounds in some of the most useful minerals, as coal, limestone, and sandstone (freestone.) The form or shape of the coal-field is that of a long elliptical basin, extending about six miles in a north-east and south-west line of bearing through the parish. Its breadth is about 600 yards. Eminent engineers consider it as forming part of the great coal field which stretches across the island from the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, in a south-westerly direction, into Ayrshire. The coal- field here consists of five workable seams of coal, varying in thick- ness from four to fourteen feet, and cropping out to the surface on both sides of the basin, at right angles to the line of bearing, with different declivities, from forty-five degrees, from one in one to one in three. The seams are all of good quality, but are subject to various dislocations, ashitches, si ips, and are traversed by greenstone or whin- stone dikes, &c The roofs are generally good, either shale, fire-clay, or hard sandstone. The coal is worked to considerable extent on the estates of Bargany and Dalquharran. Steam-engines have been em- ployed at both collieries for a number of years. The sales are prin- cipally for home consumption ; but coals are also shipped from these collieries to Ireland and elsewhere. The gas which is used at Ayr is obtained from the Dalquharran parrot coal. The sales may amount annually to 20,000 tons. The cost of a ton at the pit head is about 4s. 8cl. or 5s. A ton weighs 24 cwt., and there are eight creels in a ton. It is singular that no coal has as yet been disco- vered to the west or south of this parish. There are two lime-works in the parish ; the one near the north-west extremity at Craighead, on the estate of Bargany ; the other near the south-east extremity, at Blairhill, on the estate of Kilkerran. Craighead is a vast un- broken mass of limestone, the dimensions of which are imperfectly known. Blairhill is a regularly stratified rock, lying betwixt beds of hard sandstone, with a moderate declivity from the surface. The DAILLT. 383 annual sale from these lime- works is about 100,000 bolls, each boll containing two Winchester bushels. The price of a boll is 8d. Limestone has also been recently found by Mr Kennedy of Dunure on his estate of Dalquharran, and in connection with his coal ; but the idea of working it has been abandoned. Beds of freestone are very numerous and extensive. Some of them are uncommonly fine, and are much esteemed in ornamental building. This freestone was used in building the houses of Kil- kerran, and Dalquharran in this parish, and of Blairquhan in the parish of Straiten. The whitest and most durable freestone is found along the centre of the coal-basin, and often forms the im- mediate roof of the upper seam of coal. The most valuable quar- ries lie along the base of the hills south of the coal-basin, parti- cularly on the estate of Kilkerran. Calcareous marl also abounds on both sides of the coal-basin, and is found in regular strata. It was formerly much used as a manure, but the superiority of lime for this purpose, and its abun- dance in the neighbourhood, have led to the disuse of marl. Many small chalybeate springs, scattered over different parts of the parish, seem to indicate the existence of extensive strata of ironstone. Such seams of ironstone as have been seen are gene- rally found at considerable depth, under the lowest seam of coal. Those that have been noticed in the roofs are thought to be rich, but, unless iron should rise to an enormous price, it is not considered that any advantage could accrue to the proprietor from working the ironstone. The coal in this parish is said to be par- ticularly adapted for making of iron. The principal ridge of hills on the south side of the valley ap- pears to consist chiefly of freestone, on which are piled up enor- mous masses of puddingstone. Those on the north side are pro- bably of a similar structure. On some of them are found exten- sive rocks of a basaltic nature in the rude and irregular form dis- tinguished by the name of trap. In none of these have mineral Teins of any kind of metal been discovered. The nature of the soil is as various as the surface is diversified. Along the banks of the river the holms and meadows, in some places of considerable extent, are generally of a light but very fer- tile soil, and capable of the highest cultivation. On the south side, the soil rests on a bottom of gravel, and is peculiarly favour* able for pasturage. On the north side, there is a larger admix- ture of clay in both the soil and the inferior strata. 384 AYRSHIRE. Botany. — Much attention has been paid to horticulture, in both its useful and its ornamental branches. Extensive shrubberies round the residences of several of the proprietors, are connected by pleasure walks with the woods and glens with which the parish abounds. Arboriculture has also greatly advanced of late years. Planting has been carried to a considerable extent on the estates of Bargany, Kilkerran, Dalquharran, and Drumburle. On that of Bargany alone no less than 666^ acres have been planted in the last thirty years. Timber of every kind congenial to the climate of Scotland thrives here luxuriantly, with the single exception of the Balm of Gilead fir. IL — Civil History. Land-ovmers. — The land-owners of the parish are, Henrietta Dal- rymple Hamilton Duchesse de Coigny, proprietress of Bargany ; Sir James Fergusson, of Kilkerran, Bart; Sir John Andrew Cathcart, of Carleton, Bart ; Thomas Francis Kennedy, of Dun- ure, Esq. ; Sir David Hunter Blair, Bart ; the Marquis of Ailsa^ and Spencer Boyd, of Penkill, Esq. The four proprietors first named have residences in the parish. There is also a mansion- house on the estate of Drumburle, belonging to Sir David Hun- ter Blair. At Kilkerran and Penkill there are ruins of castles which had been places of strength, particularly that at Kilkerran. They are both in very picturesque situations. Parochial Register. — The parochial registers, and the records of the kirk-session, have been uniformly kept together. They oc- cupy seven volumes. The first volume includes the period from April 1691 to the year 1711, and is perfectly legible, but in some places much decayed. There is reason to believe that, during the early parts of the last century, the registers were not accurately kept From the year 1751, every attention has been paid to them* Antiquities. — In regard to antiquities, this parish has little to boast of. At a place called Machry-kill, there was a small church or chapel, probably dedicated to St Macarius. Near the lower extremity of a wild and romantic dell, which adjoins to Kilkerran, and forms with its woods, rocks, and numerous cascades, a beau- tiful walk, there once stood a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary. From this circumstance, the dell still retains the name of the Lady Glen. At the western extremity of the ridge of hills on the south side of the parish, there are the remains of an encamp- ment, 100 yards in length by 65 in breadth. It is of an oval form, and consists of two enclosures. The inner one is more en- DAILLY. * 385 tire than the outer. Neither of them extends the whole way round, the ground being particularly steep for about 50 yards on the face of the hill. The encampment commands a magnificent view, particularly of the Island of Arran ; and Turnberry Castle, in the parish of Kirkoswald, lies directly before it towards the north. It may therefore have been connected with the plans or move* ments of Robert Bruce. On the 5 th July 1836, a day which will be long remembered for the length and the violence of the thunder storm which raged over all the lowlands of Scotland, the lightning struck upon this hill in two different places, not far from the encampment. The fissures which it made are somewhat zig-zag, deeper at one extre- mity than any furrow of a plough, and extending about seven or eight yards. The ground below has the feeling of a collection of ashes. At Old Dailly, in a very sweet spot, are the ruins of the old parish church, which was left in 1696 for the more centrical situation which the church now occupies. Modem Buildings. — The buildings in the parish, besides those already mentioned, are two flour-mills, which go by water, two saw-mills, under wooden erections at the two collieries, impelled by the steam-engines there, a third saw-mill, in a different quarter, driven by water, and a brick-work connected with the colliery at Dalquharran. III. — Population. In 1801 the population was 1621 1811, - 1756 1821, . 2161 1831, . 2074 The decrease of the population since the census in 1831 is pro- bably to be ascribed to the discontinuance of the extensive im- provements which were for some time carried on by the landed proprietors. Emigration has not prevailed much in thi3 neigh- bourhood, but is upon the increase. Number of persons residing in the village • - - ^50 in other parts of the parish - 1 524 The average of births for the last seven years is - - 48 deaths, ..... 28 marriages, ..... 14 The number of persons under 15 rears of age is - - 858 « betwixt 15 and 30, • - - oajd, and shoving it along, that he could be taken out. A considerable time also had to pass before he could be raised to the pit head, as at three or four in the morning, none were astir but the men who were with him. During the interval, they stripped themselves of their own clothes, to cover him from the air. One had the remains of a piece of bread and butter which he had carried with him to the pit, and with the butter he rubbed the poor man's lips, which were excessively dry and parched. Another ran to a distance by the level, and raiaed 8 DAILLY. 393 a neighbour to milk her cow, as Brown had expressed a desire for milk. A third went by the same way to acquaint their master with Brown's being alive, and to pro- cure assistance for bringing him to the ground. The rest lay in succession with their naked backs to his, to produce something like natural heat, in his almost ice-cold body. The news quickly spread of his having been found alivei and visitors innu- merable crowded to the cottage where he was. By 9 o'clock, when the writer of these pages saw him, he wss comfortably laid on the bed which he had been accus- tomed to occupy. There was then an agreeable warmth on his skin, and although he spoke slowly and little, yet he was perfectly collected. His appearance was very striking, from tlie length of his black and glossy beard, the hoUowness of his eyes, and their extreme brightness, as if they had been glased. The odour of his breath was particularly oflfensive. After answering some questions, it was his own request that prayer should be offered up for him. When the prayer was finished, he grasped his minister's band, and expressed his thanks. A medical man attended him repeat- edly. Instructions were given to those about him, as to the mode in which he should be treated ; and for a day or two, if seemed as if there was a possibility of his re- gaining strength. But on November 2d, he began to sink, and on the evening of the 3d he quietly expired. Much interest was excited about " Brown."-. . .The She* riff of the county was ordered to inquire into the circumstances, which led him to be so long immured, and also into the state of his body after death. But nothing was elicited to attach blame, either on account of the length of his imprisonment, or on account of the treatment which he received while under medical care. A copy of the report on the post morttm examination has been obligingly furnished for in- sertion in this work, and is subjoined to this statement. To many, it may be inte- resting to have a correct description of the bodily state of a person who was so long buried alive. He had a lamp with him in the pit, and a portion of oil to feed it. But he was in total darkness during almost the whole time of his imprisonment. The oil he ne- ver thought of tasting, and he had no food of any kind. As long as he was able to walk, he drank of the strongly impregnated water which flowed through the room in which he worked. It was from thirst alone he said that he suffered. For about a fortnight he was able to walk to and fro. After that he had not strength to reach the stream which served to allay his thirst. He never lost tlie hope of being taken out. His mind therefore was calm. There was no exciting cause to wear out his existence. He had some notion of the progress of time, from hearing the colliers at work ; and he always conceived that they were attempting to reach him. " Boys,** he said to them after be was able to speak, ^< Oh, but you were long of coming." Of fais thoughts and feelings he could give no account; and owing to his enfeebled state, it was impossible to press him with questions on the subject. That he was sensible of the wonderful care which had been exercised over him, and of his very precarious state, may, it is hoped, be inferred from his asking to be commended to God in prayer. " Post mortem examination and Medical Report on John Brown. Dailly, 13th November 183d. By virtue of a warrantfrom the Sheriff Substitute of Ayr, dated 12tli November 18S5, we, the undersigned, have inspected the body of John Brown, and report as foUows. Brain rather paler and firmer than usual ; ventricles nearly empty ; choroid plexus pale. Omentum nearly altogether absorbed, rests merely upon the colon ; capable of being extended about two inches. Heart small and flabby. Stomach of medium size> emptv at the cardial extremity ; inflammation of the mucous coat extended about two mches in one direction, by one inch and a-half in the other. Mucous coat abraded in two places about one quarter of an inch. Liver healthy ; gall-bladder very much distended ; no mechanical obstructioB. Spleen very black— easily ruptured. Intestines healthy ; mucous coat dyed by a dark-coloured fluid. Bladder, structure healthy^about half a pint of urine. Kidneys healthy. Lungs healthy ; lobes loaded with black matter. The body was extremely emaciated. We have no reason to bcUeve that improper medical treatment contributed to the man's death. This we state upon soul and conscience. (Signed) Jorn WilsoVi M. D.| C. F. Sloak, M. D., J. Blaki, Surgeon, A. Vass, Surgeon." PARISH OF GIRVAN. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV, PETER M*MASTER, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, Boundaries^ ^c. — Girvan takes its name, no doubt, from the small river at the mouth of which it is situated. The name (at one time written Griffan) seems to be derived from two Celtic words, signifying a rapid stream^ and is descripfive enough of the river for several miles below its source. This parish lies on the sea coast of Carrick, about midway between the well-known points of Bennan and Turnberry. Its length froox south-south-west to north- north-east is 9 imperial miles ; and its breadth from 2 to 7 miles. The mean breadth, as nearly as can be computed, is 4 miles, which gives a surface of 36 square miles, or 19,000 acres. It is boimded on the east by the parishes of Dailly and Ban* ; on the south, by the parish of Colmonell ; on the west, for nearly its whole length, by the sea ; and on the north by the parish of Kirkoswald. Topographical Appearances. — A ridge of fine hills, that might almost be called mountainous, runs across the parish in a somewhat diagonal direction, and divides it, as it were, into two distinct dis- tricts. When viewed from the neighbourhood of the town of Gir- van, this ridge appears truly grand. Its average height is about 900 feet, and its highest point not less than 1200 feet above the level of the sea. On the south side of it, the ground is high and coarse, and, where not cultivated, covered with heath. On the north side, though not uniformly level, it is low and of fine quality. Meteorology, — Owing to the great difference of elevation, the temperature is variable. In wet weather, the clouds being attract- ed by the hills, considerably more rain falls in the high than in the low part of the parish. In the former district, too, especially in spring and autumn, the frost is often so strong as to injure the po- tatoe crops, when it is scarcely at all perceptible in the latter. The prevailing winds are from the west and south-west ; but the rains which occasion the greatest floods generally fall when the wind Ls GIBVAN. 395 from a point to the east of south. Owing to the proximity of the Atlantic, the average moisture of the atmosphere is greater than in the more eastern parts of the island ; but the soil being light and dry, and upon a sandy, or gravelly, or rocky bottom, the cli- mate is, upon the whole, mild, and remarkably salubrious. Hydrography. — Though, as compared with most places, the sur- face of the parish be dry, there is no want of a necessary sup- ply of water. Excellent springs are to be found at convenient dis- tances ; and there are three running streams, viz. the Girvan ; the Lendal, which falls into the sea at the bay of Carleton ; and the Assel, which falls into the Stinchar, opposite the house of Pinmore, in the parish of Colmonell. Except the Girvan, however, these streams are very small ; but as they never run dry, they are ex- tremely useful for the watering of cattle. There are only two lochs in the parish, the Lochton and the Laggan; and these, though deep, are so very diminutive in point of surface, as scarcely to be worthy of notice. Geology. — Though the vale of Girvan abounds with coal, yet it would appear that the strata all terminate above the boundary of this parish, for none of that valuable fossil has ever yet been found in it In the east side of the parish, however, there is abun- dance of excellent limestone, which has been wrought pretty ex- tensively for upwards of twenty-five years, and tended very much to the improvement of the surrounding country. Copper has also been found in the parish ; and it is thought by many, whose opi- nions should have some weight, that a rich store of it is in reserve for future enterprise, especially in the estate of Ardmillan. One or two attempts have been made to determine the point, which did not prove successful, but they were on a scale so very limited, as to be by no means decisive. What little ore was got, was of the first quality ; and in working for the copper, two or three beautiful specimens of asbestos were discovered. There is some red free- stone, a good deal of blue whinstone, and several detached masses of graystone ; but the rock which abounds most, and particularly in the neighbourhood of the sea, is what is commonly called rotten- rock, or puddingstone, the old red sandstone of some geologists. The shore, for several miles, is bound by this rock, which in many places assumes a most fantastical appearance ; it dips in all direc- tions, but chiefly towards the sea, at an angle of not more than from five to ten degrees. In many instances, mass of it is seen piled upon mass, and resting frequently on props so narrow, as to 396 AYRSHIRE. make one feel astonished that they do not lose their balance. They seem, indeed, as if they ^had been placed in their present position by the nicest efforts of art II. — Civil History. There are no historical events of importance to be mentioned in connection with this parish ; nor has it given birth to any who have been particularly distinguished in public life, with the exception, perhaps, of the well-known cousins, Robert and Zachary Boyd, who, a somewhat uncertain tradition says, were born in the house of Trochrigg, of which Robert was doubtless a member. In later times, a few highly respectable clergymen have been born, and received the rudiments of their education, in the parish. Land'Ovmiers. — The whole of the parish is in the possession of ten proprietors. The Duchess de Coigney holds nearly the half ; the other principal proprietors are, Mr Kennedy of Dunure, Mr Craufurd of Ardmillan, and Mr Fergusson of Trochrigg, the Marquis of Ailsa, Sir John Cathcart of Carleton, Mr Boyd of Penkil, Mr Hamilton of Pinmore, Mr Onslow of Balkissock, and Mr Johnstone of Trolorg, are the other proprietors. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers commence in 1733, since which period a pretty regular account of births has been kept, — but of marriages and deaths, the account was very im- perfectly kept, down to the year 1825, when a correct record of marriages commenced ; but a record of deaths is still wanting. Antiqaities. — There is but little here to attract the notice of the antiquarian. Five of those round inclosures, commonly called camps, can still be distinctly traced. Two of them are very near the sea, and none of them more than two miles and a-half from it. One of them is remarkable for haring two parallel ditches, which surround the top of the hill on which it is situated. Formerly there were a number of cairns in the high part of the parish, but these have been almost wholly demolished for the purpose of making fences. On removing one of them, there was found, in a kind of coffin, formed of broad thin stones, an earthen urn, unglazed, and rudely ornamented. It held about the quantity of two English pints, and contained a small portion of something like ashes. ■ IIL — Population. In 1801, the population wu 2260 1811, . a097 1821, . - 4490 1881, 64d0 Number of fiiinilles in the parish, ..... 1290 chiefly employed in agriculture, . .134 in trade and manufiietures, 912 GIRVAN. 397 Number of all other familiefl, ..... 244 Average number of births yearly for the last seyeu years . 156 of deaths, . . . .84 of marriages, ... .68 Males in the parish, . ... ... 8291 Females do. . . . . . . 8139 Males upwards of 20 years, ..... 1614 Number of persons at present under 15 years of age, . . . 9015 upwards of 70, . . . . 320 On comparing the above state of the parish with that in 1791, it would seem that, in few places of Scotland, has the population in- creased in such rapid proportion as in Girvan. This has been chiefly owing to the encouragement given to .the building of small houses in the town, which are soon filled with the lowest orders of the people of Ireland, who come over with the view of obtaining employment in the weaving of cotton. The increase is chiefly of this description ; though, in the same period, there has been an in- crease in the country part of the parish of about 500, who are chief- ly engaged in agriculture. Character and Habits of the People. — In no part of the kingdom are people, of the same rank in society, more respectable than the native inhabitants of this parish. They are possessed of honour- able feelings, strict integrity, and great affability and kindness, to- gether with a strong sense of that independence so characteristic of the people of Scotland in former times. In point of dress and diet, they do not indulge beyond their means ; but they are not be- hind their neighbours, in what may be called real improvement, in these particulars. So much, however, cannot be said of that por- tion of the population which is properly Irish. They have but very little, indeed, of that independence of spirit for which the native in- habitants are distinguished. They are improvident ; and, in the day of need, so far from shewing reluctance at receiving charity, they are often unreasonably clamant On their first arrival from Ire- land, many of them are much more like mendicants than people intending to support themselves by their own industry. In a day or two, perhaps, the father of the family, (for they often come in large families,) gets employment upon the loom, and the mother and children, set out, in different directions, and actually beg. The apartments in which they reside are very uncomfortable ; there is little or no regard to cleanliness, and theirbeds are absolutely wretch- ed. This description, however, does not apply to all ; for there are certainly some, especially of those who have been for years settled in the parish, and got connected with the natives by marriage, who are careful, cleanly, and comfortable ; but the bulk of them are 398 AYRSHIRE, very much the reverse ; and, from their great numbers, they have certainly had a deteriorating influence, especially on the younger part of the community. One delinquency, almost peculiar to an Irishman, namely, the desertion of his wife and children, requires to be particularly noticed, as having frequently occasioned a seri- ous drain from the poor's funds* In short, though the proprietors of houses, and the manufacturing agents, encourage the settlement of the Irish with a view to make gain by them, and may for a time succeed, they seem not to take into account the vast injury which, in a moral point of view, they are entailing on the rising generation, nor the incalculable increase which they are (uninten^ tioJiaUy^ be itgrantedj) making to the expenditure absolutely neces- sary for the support of the poor. When smuggling was common in the country, it was alleged of some of the people of Girvan that they were not backward in taking a share in it ; but the hurtful nature of that traffic was not then seen by the community in general in its true light; and it is pleasant to state that, for the last thirty years, few instances of smuggling have been heard of in the parish ; and, at present, it may be safely affirmed that no such thing exists. In the course of the last three years, there were 44 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. Beyond a few patches of brushwood, there is scarcely any natu- ral wood in the parish ; and forty years ago there was little or nothing in the shape of plantation. Since that period, however, two or three proprietors, and particularly the late Sir Hew Dal- rymple Hamilton of Bargany, have planted on a small scale, and succeeded as well as, in a maritime district, could have been rea- sonably expected. Rent of Land, — The quality of the land varies exceedingly, that in the high part of the parish, as before stated, being coarse, and a large proportion of it incapable of cultivation, except at a ruinous expense; while that in the low part is of the finest quality. The rent, therefore, may be supposed to vary accord- ingly. From 5s. to 12s. an acre may be considered as the rent of the high, and from L. 1 to L. 4 that of the low district In the immediate neighbourhood of the town, where the land is ex- cellent, several fields have been let as high as L. 6 and L. 7 an acre ; and the farm of Girvan Mains, consisting of 500 acres, brought an average rent of L. 3, 5s. an acre, during the currency GIRVAN. 399 of a nineteen years lease. The gross rental of the landward pa* rish may be stated at L. 12,000. The old valued rental, as en- tered in the county cess-books, is L. 4639, ds. Mate of Wages, — The wages of farm-servants are lower than they were fifteen or twenty years ago. Then, L. 20 a year, with bed and board, was quite common for able experienced servants, whereas now, the same description of persons can be easily had for L. 14 or L. 16 a year. Lads, again, able for most kinds of men's work, can be readily hired at from L. 9 to L. 12. Girls, fit for managing a dairy, get about L. 8, and house-servants, par- ticularly in the town, get from L. 4 to L. 7 a year. In harvest, shearers are mostly hired by the day ; and, on an average, get about Is. 6d. without victuals. At times, howevers such as when the harvest is late, or when there happens to be a great deal of ripe grain, and a prospect of bad weather, they get 2s. or 2s. 6d. But such wages ai'e rarely given ; and the chief reason why har- vest-work is fully as low here as in most parts of the country, seems to be, that a great many of the cotton weavers prefer a few days of the healthful labour of the reaping-field, to their ordinary airless and sedentary occupation. TradesmeA generally work by the piece, and, like the farm-servants, are getting less wages than formerly. When employed by the day, wrights and masons get about 2s. 6d. without victuals, and tailors from Is. 3d. to Is. 6d., with bed and board. Breeds of Live^Stock, — The live-stock is very different from what it was forty years ago, both as to quantity and quality. At that period, there were about 1700 head of black-cattle, and 214 scores of sheep in the parish ; whereas now there is only about the one-half of either. The cattle were then almost all of the Galloway breed, and the sheep of the small black-faced kind. These have been succeeded, the former by the Ayrshire breed, chiefly for the dairy, and the latter, by a much larger boned stock of the black-faced, and, in some instances, by Cheviots. The reasons of the decrease in the numbers of live-stock, there- fore, are obvious. In the first place, the animals are both heavier and better fed than formerly ; and, in the second place, there is now a much greater proportion of the land bearing grain, than there was at the period above alluded to. It has become a prac- tice with farmers, who have from a dozen to twenty cows, and up- wards, particularly on out-farms, to let what is called a booing of them for the season. They bind themselves to give a reasonable 400 AYRSHIRE. « supply of food, both during summer and winter, and in return, get from L. 6, IDs. to L. 8 for each cow, according to the situation and the quality of the keep. This practice seems to be becoming more and more common, and has obvious advantages. The own- ers of the cows, who have frequently quite enough to occupy their time and attention otherwise, are relieved of a great deal of care, while the booersj on the other hand, get an interest in the ma- nagement, which is supposed to add considerably to the value of the produce. There are but few horses, comparatively speaking, bred in the parish, the feeding of milch-cows being found to be more profitable. More than a half of all the horses used for agriculture, and other purposes, come from Ireland. These, in point of bone, are inferior to the Clydesdale breed, but they have more action, and are kept at less expense. Swine are now fed by almost every family in the landward part of the parish, and also by many of the people of the town. In the town, a poor man, by carefully mixing the ashes of his kitchen, and a little sea-weed, of which there is abundance in the neighbourhood, with the dung from the pig-sty, frequently makes up as much manure as is sufficient for the cultivation of a rood of potatoe ground, which he rents for about I5s. and from which, in common .cases, he raises as many potatoes as amply supply his family, provided it be of a moderate size, for a whole year. Husbandry. — The low-lands are admirably fitted for the plough, and, at one period or other, about the half of the whole parish has been under cultivation. When the last Statistical Account was drawn up, oats, barley, bear, peas, beans, and potatoes, were the only crops commonly raised. Wheat and rye were occasionally tried on a small scale ; but the former was thought an uncertain crop, and the latter found profitable only where the soil was light and sandy. At the present period, wheat may be said to be the principal crop. Indeed, there is hardly an acre of the low land upon which it has not been repeatedly grown during the last thirty jewBy and in most cases with ample success. From ten to fifteen bolls (of 4 Winchester bushels) per Scotch acre, was no unusual return from the best lands, when the cultivation of wheat began to be understood. As might be expected, the produce has decreased, where the land has been subjected to se- vere cropping, and particularly where wheat has been repeatedly raised ; but still, it is no uncommon thing to see from eight to ten bolls grown on an acre where there have been alternate crops of . GIRVAN. 401 wheat and potatoes for upwards of twenty years. This, however, is chiefly owing to the great quantity of sea*weed which is got in the immediate neighbourhood, and the manure that is supplied by the town. With these advantages, the farmer is enabled, not only to prepare his land in the best style for the green crop, but also to give it a thorough top-dressing before sowing the wheat. And, strange as it may seem to those unacquainted with this mode of management, the wheat raised in this way is equal in all respects, if not superior, to what can be raised with the utmost care on land little, if any thing, inferior in quality, and with a four or six shift rotation, where the incalculable advantage of an abundant supply of extra manure is wanting. Let it not be supposed, however, that the advantage arising from sea-weed, &c. is a clear gain to the farmer, — far from it ; such extra manure can only be obtained by a great deal of hard labour, and at a very considerable expense, and is fully estimated by the proprietor, in the letting of the land. In all the low, and in some portions of the high district of the parish, the soil is particularly favourable for turnip husbandry, and for several years past, a considerable quantity of the different kinds of turnips have been sown with marked success; still, however, potatoes seem to be the favourite green crop, owing chiefly to the land being got sooner cleared after them, than after turnips, for the sowing of the wheat Irrigation is scarcely known in the parish, and furrow-draining, now so universally approved oi^ is only in its infancy. This, how- ever, is owing, not so much to any backwardness, either on the part of the proprietors or tenants, to this expensive improvement, as to the fact, that from the nature of its subsoil, this parish, upon the whole, requires draining less perhaps than the same continuous quantity of surface, in almost any district of the country. Still it must be allowed, that considerable portions of it require draining, particularly of the kind above-mentioned ; and it is pleasant to re- mark, that the system has actually commenced, and with a fair prospect of being carried on to the necessary extent With very few exceptions, the leases are of nineteen years duration, nor does a shorter period seem at all desirable for either landlord or tenant Within the last forty years, almost all the farm-houses in the parish have either been rebuilt, or otherwise much improved, par- ticularly on the properties belonging to Mr Kennedy of Dunure, and Mr Craufurd of Ardmillan. On the farm of Girvan Mains alone, Mr Kennedy, upwards of twenty years ago, laid out about AYR. ' c c 402 AYRSHIRE. . L. 5000 in building houses, and that, too, without exacting the usual per centage from the tenant The farm-steading then erected on this valuable property is equal perhaps, both as to accommodation and appearance, to any yet to be met with in Scotland. Produce, — It is not to be expected that the amount of the raw produce of the parish can be stated with exact precision, but, as nearly as could be ascertained, it is as follows. Wheat, 2600 quarters, at L. 2 per quarter. Barley and bear 590 do. at L. 1, 5s. per do. ... Oats, 3805 do. at 1 8s. per do. • • . - . . Beans and peas, 060 do. at L. 2 per do. Potatoes, 18000 bolls at 7s. per boll, .... Dairy produce, including the produce of all the cow> in the parish, vix. 680 at L. 7 per cow, .----. Feed of 270 young cattle, at L. 3 each, Breeding sheep, 1 1 scores, at L. 7 per score, Sheep bought in and fed on turnips, 20 scores, at L. 4 per score, Swine, profit on 400 at L. I, lOs. each, - - L.5200 737 10 3424 10 1320 6300 4060 810 770 80 600 L.2S,302 Fisheries — The Girvan is frequented by salmon, and for a long period there has been a considerable fishing at the mouth of it, held, under Crown charters, by the proprietor of the estate of Bar- gany on the south, and the proprietor of the estate of Dunure on the north side. In former times, the mode of taking the sal- mon was by net and coble, but now stake-nets are substituted. Till very lately, the regular fishers experienced no interference oa the part of the public ; but for two or three years past, people have taken the liberty of putting down, what are called bag^neU all along the coast, and even on the ground formerly claimed by the proprietors, and in that way have killed a great many fish. This inroad is naturally enough opposed by the proprietors, and the matter is just now before the law courts, but as yet undecided. The bay of Girvan seems intended by nature as an excellent white-fishing station ; and experience has proved that most of the best kinds, such as cod, haddock, whiting, mackerel, sole, floua-- der, turbot, and lobster, are to be found in it. Strange to tell» however, the taking of these fish has never been prosecuted with much energy. Nor have the Irish weavers, when unemployed^ and in a state of utter destitution, in consequence of a stagnation of trade, been at all in the habit of endeavouring to support their starving families with this easily acquired and excellent food. One spirited individual in particular, however, namely, Mr William Johnston, banker, has exerted himself much of late, and even sa- crificed a considerable sum of money, to have the white*fishing GIRVAN. 403 on this coast turned to more account, and, it is to be hoped, with some prospect of final success. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication* — Besides Girvan, which is a market and a post-town, there is neither town nor village in the parish. There is an easy communication, however, with every place of im- portance in the neighbourhood, by means of excellent turnpike roads. The Glasgow and Port-Patrick road runs along the west side of the parish, and with but little deviation from the sea shore, for nearly nine miles. There are also good inland roads, which branch off in every direction, and render the communication as convenient and easy as could reasonably be desired. Town of Crirvan. — This town is a burgh of barony by charter granted originally to Mr Thomas Boyd of Ballochtoul, and re- newed by King William to Sir Archibald Muir of Thornton in the year 1696. The powers granted by the original charter were regularly handed down, but never acted on till the year 1785, when Girvan actually assumed the form of a burgh of barony, and still continues to enjoy the liberties and privileges belonging to other burghs of the same name. It is beautifully situated on a fine bay, and commands a magnificent view of the sea ; of the north coast of Ireland, of the rock of Ailsa, of the Mall and promontory of Cantire ; of the islands of Sanda, Arran, Plada, Little Cumbrae ; part of Bute, and the hills of Cowal. No situa- tion in the Island can be more healthy ; for though a great pro- portion of the inhabitants be poor, crowded, ill-lodged, and by no means attentive to cleanliness, yet infectious diseases are almost unknown. Till very lately, the harbour was quite in a state of nature, admitting at full tide, with from nine to eleven feet water in the mouth of the river, only the smallest description of vessels; but a quay has been built on a very limited scale, which has contributed much to the facility of shipping coals and grain, and demonstrated the possibility of making Girvan a very useful ^harbour at a mo- derate expense. The principal proprietor is said to have the improvement of the harbour at present in contemplation, the exe- cution of which, on a somewhat liberal scale, together with a rail- way to the neighbouring collieries, must of necessity be accom- plished, before Girvan can enjoy the full benefit of its admirable situation. Ecclesiastical State. — The Church of Girvan is situated, very improperly, in the centre of the town, and quite close to the street 404 AYRSHIRE. which there forms the Glasgow and Port^ Patrick road ; so that the congregation are very often disturbed, during the time of Diyine worship, by the rattling of carriages and other annoyances which cannot be prevented. It was built above sixty years ago, when the population of the parish was not the one-fourth part of its present amount ; and though an aisle was since added to it by Sir Hew Dalrymple Hamilton of Bargany, for the accommodation of bis feuars in the town, it is still very inadequate, affording only about 850 sittings for a population of nearly 7000 souls. The minister has a manse, and a glebe of 6 imperial acres, with a stipend of 15 chalders, half oat-meal, and half barley, payable by the fiars of the county. This stipend was modified six-and-twenty years ago, and is not greater at present than several of those in the neighbourhood, where there is scarcely a fifth part of the popula- tion ; but there is still free teind in the parish suflScient to raise it to an equality with other livings in similar situations. There is no chapel of ease or Episcopalian chapel in the parish ; but about twenty years ago, on the heritors refusing to enlarge or rebuild the church, there was first a Burgher meeting-house erect- ed, and afterwards a small Methodist chapel, which has been ge- nerally used, on the week days, as a private school-house. The Roman Catholics, too, have a small apartment where they meet for public worship every sixth Sunday; but neither they nor the Methodists have ever had a stated minister. In the Burgher meeting-house, however, there has been a minister officiating re- gularly, ever since it was built. Still, by fiu* the greater number of the parishioners adhere to the Established Church, and many more would attend, provided they could get seats. The average number of communicants is about 1200, who could not all have the long-enjoyed and highly-valued privilege of communicating on the same day, and under the same roof, were it not for the use of a tent The number of families in the parish attending the chapels of Dissenters or Seceders is 200, inclusive of 100 of Roman Catholics. Education. — The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum sa- lary, with an allowance of L. 20 a-year in lieu of a house and gar- den. He gets the interest of L. 1000, {minus the legacy-duty, and two guineas a-year for prizes,) the bequest of the late Mrs Craufurd of Ardmillan, on condition of his teaching gratis forty poor children, twenty of whom are to be taught English reading only ; ten, English reading and writing ; and the remaining ten. GIRVAN. 405 arithmetic, book-keeping, geography, and navigation. Mrs Crau* furd's Will also provides that ten of said forty children, who shall be found best qualified by voice and ear, shall be taught sacred music by the precentor of the parish church, for which, indepen- dently of the sum left to the schoolmasibr, he shall receive L. 12 annually, but which L. 12 has also been found subject to a deduc- tion of 10 per cent, for legacy-duty. The teacher may receive about L. 50 a-year of school fees. A few years ago, a school was instituted in the town by subscription, with the view chiefly of teaching the children of poor families to read the Scriptures and learn the catechism. A penny a^week is charged for each child whose parents can afford to give it ; but those who are considered unable to pay even that small sum are allowed to send their chil- dren free. This school is generally attended by from 100 to 150 children, and has no doubt been the means of doing considerable good. Besides this subscription-school, there are always a good many private schools, both in the town and the landward part of the parish, most of which are well attended, and in which the or- dinary branches are respectably taught, and the fees extremely moderate ; so that, all things considered, the rising generation can- not be said to be in any want of the means of education. Libraries. — For upwards of thirty years, there has been a sub- scription library in the parish, but the annual contribution being low, it has never risen to great importance. Two circulating li- braries have been opened of late, which, from their novelty per- haps, seem to have higher attractions for the younger part of the community, and promise, of course, to be more extensively useful. A library has also been instituted by the Agricultural Society of the district, the use of which, however, is exclusively confined to their own members. Benevolent Societies.^^Ever since the weaving of cotton was in- troduced into Girvan, the propriety of encouraging benevolent so- cieties has appeared evident to all the influential part of the com- munity; hence one of these societies has been formed after an- other, till they have reached the number of twelve. They con- sist generally of from 60 to 80 members each ; and their main ob- ject is to supply sick and infirm members with aliment, amounting, in most cases, to 5s. weekly, when confined to bed, and 2s. 6d. when walking about, but unable to work. These societies are highly commendable. They are, with few exceptions, well conduct- ed, and have been the chief means, no doubt, of saving the parish 406 AYRSHIRE. from being heavily assessed for the support of the poor. With the exception of one female society, instituted about sixteen years ago, under the patronage of Mrs Craufurd of Ardmillan, and con- sisting originally of 66, but latterly of 70, members, — the others are all male societies. Poor. — The average annual amount of contributions for relief of the poor is L, 170; of which L. 70 arise from church collections, and L. 75 are voluntarily contributed by the heritors in the pro- portion of their respective valuations; and L. 15 arise from the interest of money mortified by the late Mrs Craufurd of Ardmillan. Savings Bank, — A savings bank was instituted in the parish, about the same time as the female society, and chiefly under the aus- pices of the same benevolent individual. Farm and house-servants have been the principal depositors ; but as the bulk of the popu- lation consists chiefly of Irish weavers, who, with very few excep- tions, indeed, can never be induced to deposit a single shilling, this institution has by no means realized the sanguine expectations of its original promoters. MiSCELLANBOUS OBSERVATIONS. In conclusion, it may be observed, that this parish has under- gone, altogether, a very great change since the last Statistical Ac- count was published. The population is nearly ^r^ur times what it was then ; the high lands have been enclosed ; small planta- tions have sprung up ; and good and convenient roads have been made, which have contributed much to the melioration of thousands of acres of coarse pasture land, by afibrding a greater facility to the application of manure. In short, an entirely new mode of husbandry has been adopted, and is still progressing. In the town, too, the state of things is very difierent at the present day, from what it was forty years ago. Then, there were only about 100 looms employed in the weaving of cotton ; now, there are nearly 2000 ; — then, there were no means of transacting money matters within a less distance than twenty-one miles ; now, there are two respectable branch- banks, in each of which a very considerable deal of business is done ; — then, neither beef nor mutton was exposed for sale, from Martinmas to Whitsunday ; now, there is a regular market for both during the whole year; — then, the exportation of grain was rarely or ever heard of; now, it is no uncommon thing to see 10,000 or 12,000 bolls of wheat shipped in a few months. These must be allowed to be great changes ; but changes greater still may be expected, from a railroad and an extended harbour. September 1837. PARISH OF BARR. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. E. B. WALLACE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Barr was erected into a parish in the year 1653, consisting of the more remote parts of the adjoining parishes of Girvan and DaiUy. Name. — The etymology of the name is uncertain. If conjec- ture may be allowed, the small village of Barr, where the manse and kirk are built, and which has evidently given its name to the parish, was so called from its inaccessibleness, — being hem- med in on every side by precipitous hills, and approachable only by rugged glens, and across a stream, which, dwindling into a pur- ling rill in summer, rushes with a torrent's fury in winter, and, con- fining itself to no settled course, passes from side to side of the narrow strath through which it runs, and turns up every vestige of a roadway along its gravelly banks. The parish did, indeed, con- stitute a strong natural barrier between Galloway on the south and Ayrshire to the north, and was nearly inaccessible until within the last thirty years. Extent^ Sfc. — The parish is of a regular oblong figure, and mea- sures, by a recent survey taken by Government, 12 miles by 9 ; but in any possible way of travelling is not less than 15 or 16 by 10 or 11. It contains of course about 100 square miles. Its boundaries, beginning with the south-east side and proceeding round ward by the east, are Minnigaffin Galloway, Straiten, Dailly, Girvan, and Colmonell, which stretches out a long slender arm, encompassing a great part of it in the west and south, and push- ing itself like a wedge between Barr and Penningham, till it reaches Minnigaff, already mentioned. Topographical Appearances. — The parish is very hilly, with an extensive flat : two ridges line the water of Stinchar, which rises and flows in the parish 14 or 15 miles. A third ridge runs pa- rallel to these on the south-east, and beyond lies the level country 408 AYRSHIRE. consisting almost wholly of untitled and mossy soil« These ranges rise to a height from 1000 to 1200 or 1400 feet above the level of the sea. A fourth range rises to 2700 feet. It runs in an oppo* site direction along the banks of the Minnoch, and forms the com- mencement of that line of almost mountainous elevation which stretches from Ayrshire into Galloway. The natural history of the parish does not fiimish any thing remarkable. Palsy is prevalent; but, on the whole, the parish is peculiarly healthy. There are several lochs varying from 6 to 12 and 16 feet deep, and abounding in two species of trout, of a dark colour, and bright yellow. The two principal streams are the Stinchar and the Min- noch. The Stinchar flows south-westerly, and passing through Colmonell, empties itself into the sea at Ballantrae, after a course of 25 miles. The Minnoch, after a few miles' run from the highest range southward, loses itself in the Cree, which separates this pa- rish and the county from Galloway. The velocity of these streams is very great. There is one cascade in the former above 30 feet. And on examination I find that there is scarcely one of the hundred burns in this parish that has not its fall of considerable height and beauty. The lochs are all destitute of wood, and so is the parish in general, with the exception of a little edging of copse on the banks of the Stinchar, and some young plantations of small extent^ made by two proprietors within the last thirty years. Geology* — The geological structure of the parish consists of the slate formation, with a very high inclination. There are large irre- gular beds of conglomerate ; and there is some good limestone on the banks of the tower part of the Stinchar. In the limestone form- ing part of the bed of the river, some interesting and beautiful specimens of fossil shells have been recently observed. The limestone is occasionally wrought, and slate quarries have been opened, but not with equal success. No ores have been disco- vered. There are several mineral wells, chiefly chalybeate. One was once in repute, but others elsewhere have risen to fame, and it is forgotten. There is an immense extent of peat, with nume- rous remains of wood, chiefly birch and hazeL The soil in the holms is sharp and gravelly. A few of them are a good loam, and very productive ; that in the hills is nutritious when duly sup- plied with moisture ; but the great bulk of the parish consists of a wet, spongy, heathy, unproductive soil, with such grasses, sprit- bent, &C. as are always found in land of a similar character. BARK. 409 II. — Civil History. From the modern erection of the parish, its civil history is ne- 'cessarily merged in that of others. A few anciqdt papers, all re- ferring to its erection, are in the possession of the minister. One of them has the signature of Oliver Cromwell. The birth-place of the great Viscount Stair is pointed to in this parish. His mother is said to have been overtaken, when travel- ling homeward from the north ; and the house, believed to be that in which she rested, is still in existence, forming part of the build- ings of the farm-steading of Dinmurchy, the property of Sir James Fergusson, Bart of Kilkerran. Antiquities. — There are many monuments and traditions, re- cording the unjust and merciless sufferings to which the inhabi- tants of this parish were subjected during the period of persecution, from the Restoration to the happy Revolution. This parish ap- pears to have been particularly obnoxious. One memorial of Ro- man Catholic days exists in the ruin of a chapel called Eark Do- minae, and in a well close by it, in the rising ground behind, and approached by a regularly built archway. On the site of this cha- pel, an annual fair is most inconveniently held on a Saturday. By far the chief land-owner is the Marquis of Ailsa. III. — Population. From some loose documents, consisting of lists of the inhabi- tants taken by a fohner minister of the parish, it appears that the population, sixty or seventy years ago, was nearly 800. Ac- cording to Dr Webster's report, it was 85& It was only 750 when Mr Young wrote the last Statistical Account. Now, it amounts to 941 by the last census. The cause of this recent in- crease is the general change of habits throughout the kingdom, producing the erection of villages in various places where there were either none before, or where they were exceedingly smalL The village of Barr contains 230 persons, chiefly weavers and trades-people. Formerly it contained much fewer. The country population, on the other hand, has diminished firom a different cause, — from the increased size of the farms, but more especially from the improved method of managing stock, by which the same labour is done with fewer hands. There is probably also a greater gather- ing, both of labourers and of paupers, into villages than formerly; and this arises, I have no doubt, from the circumstance, that ser- vants are no longer a permanent part of a .master's family, and maintained by him under his eye, and in a cottage at his door. 410 AYRSHIRE. According to the proportion of births to deaths, there ought to be a great annual increasa The registers are not very exact and faithful, many parents neglecting their duty in the registration of their children ; and of deaths there is no register. But I had occasion to keep an account for a short time of births and deaths, when I found there were thirty^seven of the for- mer and only seven of the latter; nor have I reason to think that this remarkable disproportion varies materially from the annual average. The supernumeraries, beyond the demand for &rms and labour, slip off, as they rise up, to towns or other parts of the country, and not a few go abroad ; and it is thus the stationary na* ture of the population is preserved. The average of persons under 1 5 yrars old is . 349 betwixt 15 and aO, . 255 30 and 50, . 179 50 and 70, . 116 above 70, 44 Bachelors and widowers above 50 years of age, . 19 Unmarried women, including widows, above 45, 47 Number of families, . . • 181 There are no resident nobility, nor gentlemen of independent fortune. There are fourteen proprietors of land yielding more than L. 50 per annum. There is one person fatuous, one insane, two imbecile, and two blind. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — On the subject of agriculture, I am sorry to say that little has been done except in the management of stock, but still more sorry to think that not a great deal can be done profit- ably. Of 60,000 or 70,000 acres, the contents of the parish, not more than 1200 are under tillage, and not much more than an- other 1000 could be brought into an improved state, with repay- ment of expense and profit to the tenant Plantations. — The indigenous trees are ash and alder, and would thrive and be useful, if protected ; but they lie open to sheep and cattle, in a neglected state. The late Lord Alloway, and Mr James Fergusson, Advocate, made some plantations of larch, ash, and oak, which are in a thriving state, and already serviceable, proving what might be done. Rent of Land. — The value of the arable land is not more than L. 1 per acre : a summer's grass for a cow costs L. 2, 5s. ; and the grazing of a ewe for a year, 4s. Wool costs 8s. 6d. a stone ; lint, 10s. per stone; oats from L. 1 to L. 1, 4s. per quarter; bar-^ ley, L. I, 10s. ; and potatoes, 7s. per boll of 8 bushels. BARR. 411 Live-Stock.— The universal breed of sheep is the black-faced. Considerable attention is paid to their improvement; and it is doubtful if much more can be done to insure this end. White- faced, to any considerable extent, are found not to answer. The cattle reared are of the Galloway breed. A few Highlanders are bought in, kept a year, and sold out again with advantage. A few dairy establishments of the Ayrshire breed of cows have been re- cently introduced, and are expected to succeed. Husbandry, — The system of husbandry pursued in the dry holming-ground is the four-shift On the upland ground, two or three successive crops of oats are taken with good liming. The land is then sown. down, and pastured four, five, or six years, sometimes to the end of the lease. Surface-draining has been carried to a great extent, and with good effects ; and march-fences, in several instances, have been erected ; but little more has been done, from a conviction that the tenant cannot be repaid. The leases are generally for nineteen years. Farm^Buildinffs. — The farm-buildings are very indifferent; the dwelling-houses not suitable, except in a few cases of recent erection ; and the offices inconvenient, and oflen dirty. Much might be done both for the comfort and benefit of the tenant, and ultimately for the advantage of the landlord ; but one great and serious obstacle is, that the bulk of the land is entailed, and the proprietor naturally looks only to present returns, whilst the far- mer submits to inconveniences, and wishes to gain as much as he can, or, as oflten happens in present times, escape by losing as little as possible during his lease. There may be also, in some instances, a want of intelligence to perceive, and a want of enter- prise on the part of the farmer to pursue, his own real interest, when attended with an immediate outlay, and only a prospective gain. Produce. — The average amount of raw produce in this extensive parish is as follows : — Grain of all kinds, 400 acres, at L. 5 per acre, . L. 2000 Potatoes, 150 acres, at L. 10 per acre, . . 1500 Hay of all kinds, . . ... 3000 Flax, ....... 90 Land in'pasture, 1 125 score of sheep, at L. 4 per score, . 4500 1060 cattle grazing, at L. 1, 5s. a head, . . . 1325 Total yearly value of raw produce, . L. 1 1,355 V. — Parochial Economy. ■ Market' Town. — The nearest market-town is Girvah, seven miles 412 AYRSHIRE. distant from the village of Bam The post-office is also there. But a peony-post has been established lately on alternate days. There are only twenty-five miles of turnpike road in this huge parish, and no public carriage. There are three small bridges, and few fences. EcdesiasHcal State. — The parish church was built at a remote period* It is conveniently situated, and in tolerable repair. It contains 390 sittings : a central seat is reserved for the poor, suffi- cient to accommodate 8. The manse was built in 1804, and is a good substantia] house. The glebe may be estimated at L. 18 per annum ; and the stipend is 15 chalders, half meal, half barley, with L. 8, 68. 8d. for communion elements. There is no chapel of any kind, missionary, nor catechist The average attendance at church is good, but very variable, in consequence of the popula- tion being much scattered. On a fine day, summer or winter, there are not many empty seats,^-on a bad day, there may not be 100 people present The average is probably 250 ; and the commu- nicants above 300, nearly the whole adiilt population. There was a religious Association for some years, but it has &llen asleep. There are now four annual collections for the four schemes of the General Assembly, yielding from L. 3 to L. 4 each. Education. — There is only one parochial school, and no other regular school ; but in the remote parts of the parish, in the win- ter months, it is common for fiimilies to unite together, as con- venience permits, and employ a teacher ; it is thus chiefly that the children are taught ; and, considering the insufficiency of the means, it is surprising how well and how generally the education of the young is advanced. Maternal care and assiduity are the chief substitutes for better opportunities. The parochisJ school- master enjoys the maximum salary, with the legal accommodation, and fees charged from Is. and Is. 6d. a month, according to the branches taught, which are all ordinary ones, with Latin occasion- ally, — and amounting to about L. 15 per annum. So far as known, there is not one person between six and fifteen years of age who cannot read, and very few who cannot also write. Inability to do the one or the other is felt as a degradation. Library. — A parish library was instituted a few years ago, and proceeds slowly but progressively. It now contains 160 volumes. The reading disposition, however, is limited to a few. Friendly Society. — A Friendly Society, for aid to the sick, was 4 BARR. 413 established in 1819, and has been of undoubted advantage, both in furnishing relief, and in fostering the spirit of independence. Savings Bank. — A savings bank was also begun at the same time, and has proved of considerable benefit to servants and la- bourers, for whom it is exclusively designed. It has sufifered, how* ever, from the pressure of the times within the last two or three years, and the sum now deposited does not exceed L. 150. Poor and Parochial 2^n&.— The poor are very sedulously at- tended to, and well provided for, partly by the session, and partly by the charitable and humane. Their average number is 18^ in- cluding children. Of this number, however, not more than six or eight names appear on the session-roll ; and the allowance to them is very variable, running from 2s. 6d. to 6s. or 8s. a month, and sometimes, when au attendant is to be employed,' 15s. or 16s a month. The collections to meet these and other usual demands amount to about L. 26 a-year, vrith L. 25 from the absent heritors, of vo- luntary contribution ; and mortcloth-money and penalties, amount- ing to about L. 2 more ; and seats in the church, yielding L. 10 more. One donation of L. 50 was recently made by a lady anony- mously. The gifts of the session are never bestowed but as a help or partial support The pauper is made to understand that he must look to friends if he have them, and to the parish at large; and the parishioners at laige having the same understanding, give at their door, or send assistance, according to disposition or ability. There is some reluctance, in the first instance, to be enrolled in the list of paupers; but the feeling rapidly dies away, when the person has once stooped to the name ; and friends and relatives are simi- larly affected. It is hard to say, however, whether the disposition among the poor to ask for parochial relief is advancing or decreasing. Fair. — There is an annual fair which was originally designed for country business, but, from changes in the habits of the people, it has now no very assignable object, and continues more from use and wont than for any distinct purpose. Inns. — There are 4 inns in the village^- and 1 in a remote part of the parish. FueL — Fuel is not a very expensive article. Peat is abundant, and used in all the distant and higher parts of the parish, whilst the village and neighbourhood consume coal obtained at a mode- rate expense, on the water of Girvan, eight miles, and costing 6s. 6d. a single horse cart, including carriage. M18CBLI4ANEOUS Observations. On this head it may be stated, that the parish has undergone 414 AYRSHIRE. little alteration since the last Statistical Account was drawn up, further than that it has advanced with the rest of the country, though not to the same degree, in the general cultivation of mind and manners. The farmer is now a man of greater intelligence and larger capital than formerly. He receives a better education, and has more time for reading, reflection, and that intercourse of life which sharpens the understanding. One important improve- ment to this and all similar pastoral parishes consists in the culti- vation and training of a good breed of sheep-dogs. By this means, the writer is credibly informed, that the same work in 'gathering and separating flocks of sheep can be more effectually done, and with less injury to the sheep, by one man and a good dog, than by many men and many dogs, whom it was formerly, about forty or fifty years ago, the custom to assemble on all great gatherings. This improvement is of more consequence than can be easily calculated, being to the store-farmer what the thrashing-machine is to the agricultural, or the steam-engine to the manufacturer. In some respects, this has been a neglected and ill-used parish. It is in extreme want of roads, and the conversion-money is by no means judiciously and properly applied. By increased facilities of communication for the obtaining of lime and soil ; and by an increase of plantations for the raising of wood for home use, much advantage would undoubtedly accrue to the tenantry, and the pro- prietors themselves ultimately ; but it is feared the law of entail places a complete negative upon the distant prospective good. The lower classes do not labour under any grievances, but such as are incidental to their lot and to humanity. The want of re- gular occupation in winter is a hardship almost unavoidable ; their own ignorance and folly often prove a greater and almost equally irremediable evil, — especially their indisposition to work except at a wage which the profits of farming will not allow. The great spring, however, to human industry and the true vital principle of happiness and comfort is religion, and much has been done and is doing to secure this grand element, and make the heart feel the power of personal godliness, the great softener of human ills and promoter of human good. Much might yet be done by an improve- ment of the school system, especially the establishment of a school library, the reading of books to be allowed as premiums, and by a large supply gratis, or cheap, of school-books to children whose parents often feel the burden of procuring the materiel of educa- tion more than the payment of the school fees. September 1837. PARISH OF BALLANTRAE. PRESBYTBRY OF STRANRAER, SYNOD OF GALLOWAY. THE REV. JOHN MILROY, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Situation and Boundaries, — The parish of Ballantrae lies in the southern extremity of Ayrshire, in the district of Carrick. It is bounded on the north and north-east by the parish of Colmonell ; on the east and south-east, by the parish of New Luce ; on the south, by that of Inch ; and on the west by Locbryan and the Irish sea. It is about 10 miles in length from north to south, and nearly as many from west to east Name.^^Iis name is said to be Celtic, and signifies the toum upon or above the shore, which is the actual situation of the town of Ballantrae. The ancient name of the parish was Kirkcudbright Innertig; but in 1617, an act of Parliament was passed for remov- ing the parish church from the mouth of the river Tig to the town of Ballantrae, and hence the name of the town gradually became the name of the parish. Surface, 8^c. — The surface is considerably diversified by hill and dale, being a succession of low ridges nearly parallel to each other, running from west to east, and in general rising in height as they recede from the coast. There are four such ridges, of which the highest is the third reckoning from the north. In this ridge, the highest hill is Beinerard, which is 1430 feet above the level of the sea. It was one of the signal stations in the late trigonometrical survey, and commands a very extensive and beautiful prospect, com- prehending the Isle of Man, the north-east of Ireland, Cantire, Ailsa, Arran, the Ayrshire coast as far north as the Cumbraes, the whole being terminated by the west Highland mountains in the distance, — and in another direction, the Dumfries-shire hills, the Cumberland and Westmoreland mountains, with the interjacent Solway. Topographical Appearances. — The parish has upwards of ten miles of sea coast, but the whole of the shore is bold and rocky. 416 AYRSHIRE. with the exception of between two and three miles of it, near the town of Ballantrae, which is flat and sandy. The town or village is situated on the' north bank of the Stinchar, about half a mile from its mouth, and nearly opposite to the opening between the Mull of Cantire and the north of Ireland. The sea in every other direction is land- locked, but in that the nearest land is America. In high winds from the westward, the beach is exposed to the full fury of the Atlantic, and nothing can exceed the grandeur of the sea view ; while in the serene evenings of summer, nothing can be softer, more placid, or more beautiful than the same expanse of sea, often with scarcely even a ripple to break its glassy surface* There are three lighthouses visible from the village, viz. that on Corsewall Point, W^gtonshire, that on the Irish coast almost oppo- site to the village, and that on Pladda to the northward. Hydrography, — The only river of any size in Ballantrae, is the Stinchar. It has its source in the parish of Barr, flows south-west, crosses Colmonell, forms the northern boundary of part of Ballan- trae, then flows through it for about three miles, and discharges it- self after a course of about thirty miles into the Irish sea. It is broad and shallow, like all other mountain streams, is speedily flooded, and soon again subsides. It receives the Tig from the south-east, which is also a mountain stream of the same character, but smaller. The App is a smaller stream still, about four miles south from the Stinchar, and flows westward through Glenapp into Lochryan. None of these streams is navigable even for the smallest distance. The fish which frequent these streams are the common trout, the sea-trout, the salmon, and the par. Salmon go up the Stinchar, in great numbers, to spawn, in October and November ; and the young return to the sea again in April and the beginning of May* The salmon fishery at the mouth of the Stinchar, opens in the be- ginning of February, and closes in the middle of September, but the time both of opening and closing the river is considered too early. Though it opens in February, the tacksmen of the fishery never think of putting a net in water till the 20th April, and even then not one fish in twenty is worth keeping, and at the time of closing, the fish are quite as good as at any previous time, save per- haps the end of July and the month of August If the river were kept closed till the beginning of April, and not closed again till the beginning of October, it would be a better arrangement, the Stin- char being considered a very late riven The rent of the fishery is BALLANTKAE. 417 L. 210 a-year. A market is found for the fish chiefly in Ayr and Kilmarnock. Climate, (J*c. — The climate is rather moist, as might be expect- ed from the proximity of an expanse of between twenty-five and thirty leagues of sea ; but it is very mild. The prevailing winds are from the westward or some modification of west, and in conse- quence the air is often loaded with saline particles caught up in the process of evaporation. The highest winds are from the west and north-west, the most rainy from the south, south-west, and south- east. The temperature is never very low, and but seldom very high, being in both cases moderated by the sea-breeze. There has not been a week of continued frost within the last four years. Snow very seldom lies for more than a day on the low grounds near the coast. The finest weather is commonly in the beginning of May and in the end of July, or beginning of August. The air ap- pears to be salubrious, for there is a number of very old people in the parish, and the inhabitants in general are of a robust make and hale florid complexion, quite free of any peculiar disease, and generally not much visited with the ordinary diseases that assail our nature. Soili Sfc. — The soil is mostly of a light dry gravelly nature, sandy near the shore, and requires a good deal of rain to make it yield good crops. The best soil is that of the holms on the banks of the Stinchar and the other streams. But cultivation is profitably ex- tended up to the foot of the highest hills, where there are luxuriant crops of oats, and barley, or bear. Lime has been applied to the sur&ce of the hills, 800 feet above the level of the sea. It has de- stroyed the heather, and both increased the quantity and improved the quality of the pasturage. No lime is found within Ballantrae, but there is abundance of it in the neighbouring parish of Colmo- nell, at the distance of from two to ten miles from the various farms in the parish. Woods, Spc. — From various causes, the climate is considered un- favourable to the growth of wood ; yet at a former period, there must have been a large quantity of it in the parish, for in the mo- rasses among the hills a good deal of it, chiefly oak, ash, and birch, is still found imbedded in peat-moss. And within the recollec- tion of old people, the coast was much more fringed with copse- wood than at present On the south bank of the Stinchar and of the Tig, and on the north bank of the App, there is a good deal of natural wood, some of which, particularly on the Tig, is valu- ATR. D d 418 AYRSHIRE. able as timber, but a large portion is coppice or brush-wood. Till comparatively a late date, there does not seem to have been much planted in the parish. About nineteen years ago, however, seve- ral considerable belts and clumps of plantation were laid down by John Donaldson, Esq. of Auchairne, around his house and on other parts of his property, which have thriven uncx)mmonly well, and fully prove that although on the coast, or where there is much exposure to the western wind, wood may not thrive, yet neither the soil nor the climate is unfavourable to its growth in a diflferent situation. Other proprietors have also planted more or less ; and last season the Earl of Orkney, who lately became a proprietor in the parish, laid down very extensive plantations both in Glen App, and on the ridge to the north of the glen, most of which will pro- bably thrive as well as those laid down nineteen years ago. And nineteen years hence, the face of the country may be as well co- vered with wood, as lately it appeared the reverse. The number of acres under wood, natural or planted, may now be fairly stated at 370. II. — Civil History. Antiquities. — It appears from the act of Parliament, authorizing the removal of the church, that the town of Ballantrae was erect- ed into a burgh of barony before 1617. Respecting the old Cas- tle of Ardstinchar, (the seat of a branch of the Bargany family,) and the state of society in the district of Carrick when it was inha- bited, amusing and interesting information will be found in Pit- cairn's History of the House of Kennedy. Land-'oumers, — The landed property in the parish is divided among thirteen proprietors, two of whom are noblemen. The small- est of these proprietors has a yearly rental greatly above L. 50. Only one of them resides in the parish during the whole year, but several reside in it during a part of the summer and autumn. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers do not reach far- ther back than 1744, and contain only marriages and baptisms. They are not in a good state of preservation till near the end of the century; since then they have been kept with greater accuracy and care, though still there is no register of the deaths. III. — Population. The total population of the parish in 1831 was 1506. These are comprehended in about 290 families, giving rather more than five persons to each family on an average. Of these families, about 108 are resident in the village of Ballantrae, making a population BALLANTRAE. 419 of 456. The average number of marriages for the last four years is rather above 9 ; of births, rather above 43; both exclusive of Dis- senters, who have their own registers. When the former Statistical Account was drawn up, there were only 770 inhabitants in the parish, so that the population has nearly doubled in forty years. The increase of population is entirely to be attributed to the great additional quantity of land brought into cultivation, which has given increased means of subsistence, and required not only more hands to cultivate it, but also more tradesmen and shopkeepers to supply them with implements, clothing, and the necessaries of life. Character of the People^ §• 1 a -year. A cottager's benefit varies from L. 19 to L. 23 a-year. Few men-servants reside in the farmers' families ; those who do are generally young lads, and their wages 420 AYRSHIRE. are from L. 4 to L. 5, 10s. half-yearly. Female servants receive from L. 2 to L. 4, and experienced dairy-maids often L. 5 for the half year. Prices of Provisions. — The price of butcher-meat is about 4d. per lb. of 16 oz. ; of butter 8d. per do. ; fowls Is. a piece; chickens 4d« do. ; cheese (sweet milk) 8s. 6d« per stone of 24lbs. ; oatmeal about 2s. 8d. per stone in retail; cod-fish from 8d. to Is. per stone of 16 lbs. ; salmon-trout in May 7d. a lb., salmon in the beginning of June JOd. per do., in August 7d. per do., grilse in August dd. per do. ; turbot 4^. per lb. Husbandry. — In all the principal farms, the dairy system is a good deal combined with the tillage system. On one farm, there are above seventy cows kept during the whole year, — on each of two others above forty, on several others thirty, and from that down- wards ; and these same farms raise annually as much &rm produce as any others in the parish. About 5000 stones of sweet milk cheese are made every year in Ballantrae. In tillage husbandry, the seven-shift rotation is usually practised, f. e. supposing the land to be in pasturage, there is 1. a crop of oats ; 2. a green crop; 3. a crop of wheat or barley ; 4. a hay crop of rye-grass and clover ; and then pasturage for three years. Of late bone-dust is made use of to raise crops of turnips, which are generally eaten off by sheep, and furrow-draining is practised to a considerable extent The length of leases is commonly nineteen years. All the farm- steadings recently built are good ; the others admit of considerable improvement. The total number of acres in the parish may be estimated at between 24,000 and 25,000. Of these about 7000 are arable ; 400 of the arable are worth L. 2 an acre per annum ; 2000 more are worth L. 1, and the rest are worth from Ss. to 10s. per annum. The land not arable, being chiefly moor pasture, may be considered worth 2s. 6d. per acre a-year. The gross rental of the land in the parish is L. 7456 a-year. Fisheries. — Besides the salmou-fisbery, which we have already mentioned, there is a white fishery chiefly of cod and turbot It commences about the 10th of January, and ends before the 1st of April. A great many herrings are also caught some seasons. The white fishery employs sixteen boats with four men in each, and each boat takes to the value of from L. 35 to L. 40 a season. Last season (1836) each boat took fiilly L. 40, which gives L. 640 BALLANTRAE. 421 &s the produce of last fishing season. The cost of the boat may be about L. 10, of the sail L. 2, and of the nets about L. 1 each. The boat will last twelve or fifteen years, the nets not more than two years; but the boats often meet with accidents, and the nets are still oftener drifted out to sea by high winds, and, either seri- ously injured or altogether lost From eight to twenty nets are used by each boat Produce. — The gross annual produce raised in the parish may be taken at very nearly as under, viz. 4055 bolls (of 8 bushels) oats, at 17s, 7^d. per boll (fiar price,) 995 do. (of 4 bushels) wheat, at L. 1, 16s. 24d. per quarter, 544 do. (of 8 bushels) bear, at L. 1, ds. 64d. per boll, • 254 acres of potatoes, at L. 7, 10s. per acre, 1 10 do. of turnips, at L. 5 per acre, 42 bolls pease and beans (of 8 bushels,) at L. 1, ISs. Id. per boll, 4l6co«8, producing 4992 stones of cheese (241bs.) at Ss. 6d. per stone, >.--.., 184 do. producing to the value of L. 4, 5s. Grazing of 863 black cattle, at L. 2 each, 8360 sheep, at 4s. 6d. .... 120 goats, at 4s. 6d. .... 42,320 atones (241bs.) rye-grass hay, at 4|d. per stone, 12,850 do. bog hay, at 3Jd. per stone, . - - Salmon fishery double of the rent, ... White fishery, --_..- L. 16,275 16 7 The grain is estimated at the last fiar prices ; the bushels are imperial. V. — Parochial Economy, Means of CommunicatioTU — There is no market-town, and but one village in the parish. It is around the church, and consists of eighty-four houses. The chief market-town for the farm produce of the parish is Girvan, distant twelve miles and a-half to the north, Stranraer distant seventeen miles south, is another good market- town, but in it much les^ business from the parish is done. The roads to both towns are now excellent. The length of turnpike roads in the parish is eleven miles in one direction, and about five in another, and two in a third. A number of excellent parish roads branch out from these. There is a post-office in the village. The mail from Ireland to Glasgow passes northward every day at six o'clock in the even- ing, from Glasgow southward about one o'clock in the morning. Since October last (1835) the mails have been conveyed by a two- horse mail coach ; before, they were conveyed in mail gigs. For se- veral years, the steam-boat from Stranraer to Glasgow has called at Ballantrae, both in going and returning, during the summei L.8573 9 4i 901 11 9 640 6 8 1905 550 69 9 6 2121 12 782 • 1726 1881 27 837 11 8 200 15 71 420 640 422 AYRSHIRE. months; and during last summer, two others plied between Glasgow and Stranraer, touching at Ballantrae, so that there was a convey- ance from Ballantrae to Glasgow by steam three times a-week, and as often back again. It is understood that the same arrangement is to be continued by at least two of the boats. There is an annual ploughing-match in the parish, at which up- wards of thirty ploughs compete. Four years ago an annual cattle shew of dairy stock, viz. Ayrshire cows and bulls, Galloway do. do., young beasts, both Ayrshire and Galloway, cross breeds between the Ayrshire and Galloway, horses, foals, rams, and pigs, — was set agoing in Ballantrae, and went on with great spirit. It has now been extended to the three parishes of Barr, Colmonell, and Bal- lantrae, under the name of The Stinchar Assodatiaru The shew is held in each parish in rotation. Ecclesiastical State. — The ruins of the church at Innertig are still standing. The present parish church is situated in the north- west corner of the parish in the village, but by far the greater part of the population is comprehended within a distance of four miles from it* There are, however, several families eight miles from it, and others in a different direction, nine or ten. It is a neat church, affording accommodation for nearly 600, and was built in 1819. There are no sittings in it absolutely free, but there are fifty placed at the disposal of the kirk-session, a few of which are let at Is. a sitting for a year, the rest are occasionally occupied, by whoever chooses. The manse was built in 1736, and, though now a cen- tury old, is still in a good state of repair. The glebe, together with a manse and church, built at the ^' Laird of Barganye's lairge and sumptuous chargis, was voluntarilye designed to the minister serveing the cure at ye kirk of Ballintrae, out of ye saide Lairde of Barganye's awin proper landis and heretage without anye con« straynte," when the church was removed to the town of Ballintrae in 1617, in consequence of which the patronage was retained in the family of Bargany, and remains in it still. The glebe consists of between 6 and 7 acres, nearly two of which are grass glebe, in- capable of cultivation. The stipend was augmented in 1826, at which time 46 bolls 2 firlots, Specks, 2 lippies of oatmeal, 16 bolls, 3.998 bushels imperial of bear, and L. 186, 17s. SJd. were grant- ed. The teinds are now exhausted. The value of the glebe may be estimated at between L. 10 and L. 12 yearly. The number of families that attend church is about 260, and there are about 30 Dissenting or Catholic families in the parish. There is no Dissent- BALLANTRAE. 423 ingor Catholic place of worship in it Divine service is generally well attended. The number of communicants is from 430 to 440. The parish was disjoined from the presbytery of Ayr, and annexed to that of Stranraer in 1699. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The amount of the ordinary church collections, &c for the behoof of the poor, is within a few shillings of Ia 50 yearly. The number of poor at present on the roll is 14 ; but many others receive occasional relief as circumstances seem to require. The highest payment to a pauper is L. 6, 10s. a-year, the lowest L. 1, 1 5s. There is no assessment, voluntary or other- wise. The ordinary collections, &c. generally suffice for this very moderate allowance. A considerable source both of annoyance and expense to the kirk-session is the passing of paupers (chiefly Irish) who are unable to travel. The great road from Glasgow to Port- patrick runs for eleven miles through the parish, and hence there are many applications to be passed southwards, but not one towards the north. Paupers, if forwarded at all, must be forwarded twelve miles. A few years ago, a benevolent lady of the name of Caddall he^ queathed the sum of L. 4500, and 15 acres of land, to build and endow a chapel and school in Glenapp in connection with the Established Church, and also to found a bursary for a student pre- paring for the ministry. The trustees whom she nominated have set the school and the bursary in operation, have selected the land for the glebe, and intend to proceed with the chapel as soon as the fiinds, after the necessary building and inclosing, will aflford a de- cent competency to a clergyman. Persons of the names of But- ters and Caddall are to be preferred. Were this chapel opened, the parish would have church accommodation ample, even beyond its present need. The upper end of Glenapp is four miles from the parish church, and the lower end eight ; the chapel is intend- ed to be near the middle of the glen. Education. — There are four schools in the parish, three of which are endowed. The parish school has the maximum legal endow- ment ; and, besides, the interest of L. 400 annually, to educate poor children, two-thirds of whom are to be nominated by the patron of the parish, and the remainder by the kirk-session. The amount of fees actually received by the schoolmaster is about L. 16 a year, of the other emoluments arising from the school L. 4d, of the whole L. 64. The school in Glenapp has L. 25 of annual salary; and the other has a small annual endowment of about L. 6. The ele- 424 AYRSHIRE. mentary branches are taught Id all these schools : and in some of them, book-keeping, mensuration, geography, Latin, and Greek. When the schools were last examined (February 1836,) there were 96 males and 47 females attending these four schools, making in all 143, which may be pretty near the average number of scholars. There are none between the ages of six and fifteen who cannot read, more or less; there are but few at fifteen who cannot write, and I know of only two above fifteen who cannot read. The ex- pense of being taught reading is lOd. per month of four weeks ; reading and writing, Is. ; reading, writing, and arithmetic. Is. 2d. ; Latin and Greek, Is. 4d. The schools are in general well taught, and the people seem tolerably sensible of the importance of edu- cation. Library^ — About a year and a-half ago, a subscription library was commenced, to which there are now about thirty subscribers. The books as yet are not numerous, about 100 volumes, but they are much in request. Besides these, there are two copies of Chambers' Jour- nal, four copies of Chambers' Information for the People, four co- pies of Chambers' Historical Newspaper, one copy of the Penny Magazine, and one of the Saturday Magazine, (all given by Mr George Oliver of Manchester,) circulating through the parish in addition to newspapers. IruiSy ^c.-— There are a good inn and 5 public-houses in the vil- lage of Ballantrae to a population of 456. They are greatly more numerous than is required, and are not fevourable to the morals of the people in their neighbourhood. There is but one other public house in the parish. FueL'^ln the higher parts of the parish, peat is the chief fuel. Abundance of it is found among the hills ; and at one time it was almost the sole fuel used in the parish ; but now two-thirds of the people use coal, owing to the distance that peat must be driven, and the unwillingness of proprietors to allow it to be cut. Coal is obtained at Girvan, a distance of twelve miles and a-half from the village. It costs Is. 4d. per creel at Girvan. A horse draws five of these creels|; and there are two tolls to the village, three if you pass it, so that a cart of coal at Ballantrae costs 10s. lOd. at the very least. Such a cart contains five-eighths of a ton. Sometimes coal is brought from Girvan by sea, but farmers and others who have bulky articles to carry to market, find it cheaper to bring back coal with their own horses. Fuel is one of the most expensive ar- ticles of house-keoping in this district. BALLANTRAE. 425 Miscellaneous Observations. Wh^n the fonner Statistical Account was written, the popula- tion of the parish was 770; now it is upwards of 1506. There were then 190 dwelling-houses in it, now there are 290. There were then 77 houses containing 800 people in the village ; now there are in it 84, giving a population of 456. Then, the annual number of births in the parish was 18; now it is upwards of 43, ex- clusive of those in 80 Dissenting or Catholic families. Formerly, the real rent of the parish, yearly, was *' believed to be" little short o f L.2000 Sterling; now it is above L.7400a-year. Formerly the rent of farms was from L. 10 to L. 1 15 per annum ; now it is from L. 10 to L. 450. Formerly a cottager's benefit was firom L. 10 to L. 15 a-year ; now it is from L. 19 to L. 28. Formerly the salmon fishery was rented L.80 a-year, now it is L.210. At the time of the former Statistical Account, salmon sold at 1^. per lb. ; now it sells from 6d. to lOd. per do. ; cod then sold at from 4d. to 6d. per stone, now sells at from 8d. to Is. Beef and mutton sold then at about 2^d per lb., now sell at from 4d. to 6d. Fowls were then 6d. each, now Is. ; chickens then 2d. now 4d. The stipend of Ballan- trae was then L. 500 Scots of money, and 8 chalders of victual ; now it is 46^ bolls of oatmeal, 16^ bolls of bear, and L. 186, 17s. 8^d. The school salary then was L.6 Sterling a-year, now it is L.84, 4s. Formerly, there was no person connected with the law, not even a constable or sheriff's officer in the parish, — neither is there at present Formerly, there was no Justice of Peace in the parish^ now there are two; and a Justice of Peace Court is held in the village every two months. Formerly, there was no surgeon or physician within a dozen of miles ; for the last four years, a sur- geon has resided in the village of Ballantrae. April 1836. PARISH OF STEVENSTON. PRESBYTERY OF IRVINE, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. REV. DAVID LANDSBOROUGH, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name and Boundaries^ S^c. — The parish of Stevenston derives its name from Stephen Lockhart, who settled in it in the twelfth century; his &ther having about 1170 obtained a grant of the whole parish from Richard Morville, Lord of Cuninghame and Constable of Scotland.* Its greatest length is about 5 miles, from Saltcoats harbour to Irvine Bar ; and its greatest breadth is about 3 miles. It contains about 6^ square miles ; or about 3182 Scotch acres. It is bounded on the north by Ardrossan and Kil- winning; on the south by the Frith of Clyde; on the west by Ar- drossan ; and on the east by Kilwinning, and by the river Garnock, which separates it, for about three miles, from the parish of Irvine ; and on the south-east, by the confluence of the Garnock and Irvine, separating it from that part of the parish of Dundonald, which, by an act of last General Assembly, has been erected into a new pa- rish, quoad spiritualia^ called Fullerton. Though the surface is varied, it in no place rises to any great height. From Saltcoats there is a gradual acclivity to Croak's- well, on the northern boundary, towards Dairy, where there is the highest ground in the parish, 808 feet above the level of the sea at high water. At Castle-hill, on the eastern boundary, there are two eminences of considerable beauty, now surmounted by thriving plantations, forming a contrast to the sterile sand-hills in their neighbourhood. These sand-hills occupy about 1200 acres of the south-eastern part of the parish, commencing at Ste- venston bum-foot, stretching along the shore to Irvine Bar, and extending probably more than a mile inland. From Saltcoats to Muirside, on the way to Kilwinning, there is a flat tract betwixt the highway and the sea, part of which is rich loamy ground, * Chalmers* Caledonia. STEVENSTON. 427 and part of it little more than sea-sand. The upper part of the parish is stiff clay. There is a tradition that the Garnock, which now falls into the sea. in union with the Irvine, in olden time, took a westerly direc- tion, by Bog and Ardeer, and Stevenston, and fell into the sea op* posite to Sea Bank. We have little doubt of the truth of this tradi- tion. It accounts for the origin of the sand-hills ; as we find si- milar sand-hills in other places, formed at the mouths of rivers by the blowing of sand brought down by the stream ; and the drift of sand here is almost always from the west, the quarter in which we suppose the mouth of the river, of old, to have been. It receives countenance from the great &cility with which the river might still be made to flowin what, we believe, was its ancient course; — from the soil of part of this flat tract, which we regard as its ancient channel, being a mixture of moss, water-worn gravel, sand, and shells; — and from another small portion of land in the same course still retain- ing the name of Insch^ the Gaelic term for island ; once probably insulated by the river ; but now unvisited by the smallest stream. The tradition receives some countenance from the fact, that a si- milar change, though on a smaller scale, is well known to have taken place on the course of Stevenston burn, which, instead of falling into the sea, as it does now, to the south of Stevenston, flowed in a westerly direction behind what is now Bogle Mart Street, and through the green fields of Sea Bank, falling into the sea in the neighbourhood of Saltcoats.* And it is no small con- * It is well known in Stevenston that several lives were lost, and much injury done, by the drowning of a ooal-pit betwixt Saltcoats and Stevenston ; but some ascribe the catastrophe to a high tidei and others to the flooding of Stevenston burn. On conversing lately with a respectable gentleman, bom in Stevenston more than eighty years ago, and whose father, about 1763, was tacksman of the coal-works, we learned that there were two pits drowned ; one of them by the tide, and the other by the burn, though he knew not the date of either of these mournful events. The one which was overflowed by the tide was at the HtU near Saltcoats. At a much later period than the one we speak of, the tide encroached farther on the land. In January 1796, during a high tide, the sea was so deep on the highway from Sea Bank gate to Soltcoats, that a person told me that he was obliged to walk all the way on the top of the wall. The pit of which we speak was between the road and the sea, andy as it was considered in danger during the time of high spring-tides, two persons were set to watch, and if necessary to give alarm to those who were at work below. On one occasion, the watchers, having found the charms of an alehouse too powerful for them, forsook their post ; and the sea having risen to an unusual height, overflow- ed the pit mouth, and, rushing down into the gulf below, gave notice to the col- liers of their danger when it was too late ; and of the six who were at work, not one escaped to tell the mournful tale. As the pit filled, the imprisoned air forced a way for itself at various places ; and the water was propelled upwards like so vnanvJeU d^eau. The pillars that supported the roof giving way, the ground subsided, andcon* tinues to be called the sits; and it used till lately to be covered all winter with water. But a similar catastrophe happened to another pit betwixt Sea Bank and Steven- ston. At that time, Stevenston burn flowed down a hollow, still evident in Sea Bank 428 AYRSHIRE. iirmatioQ of the truth of the tradition, that boat anchors and frag- ments of boats have been dug up in marshy ground near Ardeer, in the line in which the Garnock is supposed to have flowed; and till the great goat or drain was made in that low tract, there was a continuous line of little lochs, or as they are called dubbs, which, for a length of time after the river had found a new channel, would make the sand-hills an insch or island. We know a case perfectly similar in Galloway, where the Ken changed its course some hun- dred years ago, and where a large and fertile holm, intercepted betwixt the new channel of the silver stream, and the remaining dubbs of the old channel, still retains the name of the muckle isle, and continues to be a part of the parish of Dalry^ though now cut off from it by the river. A similar change has taken place on the course of the Doon near Ayr. In the map of Cuninghame, published by Bleau in 1654, but prepared by Pont nearly half a century before, — and probably, in some respects, copied from a map more ancient still,— instead of finding the Lugton joining the Garnock, and the Garnock and Irvine uniting near Irvine Bar, we find the three streams falling into the sea at a considerable distance from each other. The course of the Irvine is the same as it is now. Far to the west, however, the Garnock, in lonely pride, winds its way to the sea through the hills of sand ; and the Lugton, as unsocial as its more powerful neigh- bours, loses itself in the mighty ocean, about midway betwixt the Irvine and the Garnock. But there is not only tradition for the change, but for the cause of the change ; and though those who lived at the time and wit- nessed the event, might be deceived as to the cause, they could not be mistaken as to the fact. St Winning, we are told, had gone to fish — not men but trout. The Garnock trouts, however, were not complaisant enough to allow themselves to be caught ; and the angling saint became so greatly incensed, that, dreading his ire, trout and stream fled before him, seeking the sea by a new channel.* We may laugh at a Popish miracle to effect a change, grounds, and to this day containing water, known under the name of the old bum, along the side of which, when there were no inclosures, was the church road from Saltcoats to Stevenston. No danger was dreaded to the pits from the burn, in its meandering progress to the sea. But in the time of a great flood in the burn, the mill-dam aboye Stevenston burst ; and the impetuous torrent over 60 wing the banks, made its way into the coal-pit at no great distance, and several colliers who were at work at the time were drowned. In changing the course of the burn, it was made to flow in such a line as to form the boundary betwixt the estates of Ardeer and Sea- Bank. * BeUh Papers, penes James Dobie, Esq. of Crummock, to whose kindness we arc indebted. STEVEN5T0N. 429 for which a flood in the river would better account ; but the tra- dition strengthens our belief in the reality of the change, while it carries it back to a dark and distant age. Wliatever may have been the changes in the course of the river, there is reason to think that the sea at a remoter period over- flowed what is now occupied by the sand-hills, and washed the base of that rocky ridge, which, commencing at Saltcoats, is very evident at Sea-Bank, and forms the high ground at the church and manse, and also at Ardeer. In proof of this, we may men- tion, that sea shells were lately found in sandy gravel, in digging a deep grave in the churchyard ; though we have to regret that they were not shewn to us. We have ourselves found in deep hollows formed by the wind among the sand-hills, about a mile from the sea, abundance of sea shells, chiefly consisting of Turbo littoreus snd Mactra subtruncata. We have seen fine specimens of Pecten maximtis found in perfect preservation twenty-two feet below the surface, when sinking for coal in the flat sandy common to the west of the sand-hills.* And in several places of the same field, * It is quite a comixion occurrence in sinking for coal in any part of the coal-field, from Saltcoats to Misk and Bogend, after passing through a bed of sand, varying in depth from 5 to 25 or 90 feet, to come to a stratum of clay, and to find on the sur- fiuie of the clay abundance of recent shells. A list of about 70 species of these sub- fessil shells was made out, but we need insert only those not found in a recent state on the sliore» viz. Solen legumen Crassina minima Patella parva Mactra truncata Nucula minima Cemoria Flemingi Tellina approxima Modiola pa])uana Fusus lamellosus Crassina ovata albicostata Corbula nucleus* Since the above sentence was written, we have had the pleasure of picking up abundance of these shells, where they are boring the rock at Ardeer or Stevenston quarry. There, the shells are only 5 feet under the green sward. At this depth, there is a bed of coarse sea-sand, mixed with Turbo liUoreusy &c. &c. the whelks and lim- pets and cockles being sound and entire. Under this bed of gravel and sand and shells, there is a stratum of solid till or slate-clay, 10 or 12 feet thick, overlying the beautiful sandstone of the quarry. This schistUB is perforated in innumerable places, to the depth of 5 or 6 inches by Phola» criipata or the Borer, in the same manner as the progeny, probably, of these venerable Borer t are at the present day piercing the same rock, in the sea at Saltcoats. The bore is fully an inch in diameter. The shell still occupies the mouth of the perfora- tion, and, though now frail, it is distinctly marked by its waved ridges and longitu- dinal furrows, and the groove running from the hinge to the margin. But what is much more wonderftil; at the bottom of the holes which the Pholas has bored there is a matted tuft of sea- weed, ( Ulva intesiinalU), not petrified ; not con- verted into peat — ^not rotten — but retaining its sap and form, and texture and reticulations, and even its pale green colour ! This is not a little surprising. Sir William Hooker, to whose kindness, on many occasions, we have been indebted, and to whom we sent specimens, says that we are correct in the name ; and that it could * As we are not well acquainted with sub-fossil shells, the names have been kind- ly ftirnished to us by James Smith, Esq. of Jordaiihill, who has paid much attention to the conchology of the newer tertiary formations. 430 AYRSHIRE. where the wind, aided by the rabbits, had made deep hollows in the sandy soil, we lately observed a thin stratum of peat some feet beneath the green sward, which, on examination, proved moss formed of sea-weed, Rotalia Beccarii-perversus being still fresh on the surface]; and the leaves of Zostera marina being still distin- guishable. On breaking up the peat, we found that it contained some sea shells in tolerable preservation, and we could easily dis- tinguish Lucina radvla^ Cardium keviffatum, and Astarte Scotica, From all these circumstances, there is every reason to conclude, that over that wide tract where the sand-hills now rise in sterile undulation, and over the grassy common to the west, where cows now feed, and rabbits burrow and frisk, and over the fertile farms of Bog and Bogend, the Atlantic once rolled its billows. Still, however, we can form but very vague conjectures respect- ing the various changes which must have taken place in former days, on this desolate part of the parish. It was not always so desolate, since the sea ceased to include it in its dominions. We discover at times traces of early cultivation, which have been long hid from the eye of man. In extending the quarry at Ardeer, and in sinking for coal, after removing some feet of pure sand, a stratum of rich alluvial soil has sometimes been reach- ed, which must have been under the plough ; as ridges are quite perceptible when a section of it is made ; and as horse-shoes of small size have at times been found, as well as hazel-nuts mingled with the soiL* Here, then, in days of yore, there must have been not hare grown 5 feet under ground. From the shells then, and from the UlvOf the sea must hare been there, though at a period too remote now to be ascertained. And though the sea is now about three quarters of a mile distant from the quarry, we can easily credit the tradition, that, in ancient times, yessek were accustomed to lie at anchor north of the quarry, and about the place where Ardeer House now stands. Indeed, from various phenomena that have come under our observation, we have the most thorough conviction, that, at a period not extremely remote, the half of this parish was overflowed by the sea. * Since we wrote the above, we have been told that, at sinking the pit at Misk, after digging through many feet of sand, the workmen came to ridges evidently form- ed by the plough, and found fragments of earthen vessels; and, what was still more wonderful, found an entire tobacco-pipe, which pleased the colliers so much, that they insisted on having a whiff with it in their turn. This brings down the inun- dation of sand on part, at least, of the tract, to a more recent period than we would have imagined, unless we suppose that our forefathers were smokers of herbs or opium before the introduction of tobacco by Sir Walter Raleigh, in 1560. We are quite convinced that the sand-hills, in general, are of much longer standing ; but as they travel from the west, and, as Misk is on the eastern boundary, it would be one of the last places covered. The progress of the sand at Misk is very perceptible, as it has risen in wreaths higher than the upper door-lintel of a house built there, no great number of years ago. It is the general belief, that the sandhills are becoming gra- dually lower ; and what they lose in height is spread, to their no small detriment* over the cultivated lands on the east. STEVENSTON. 431 not only the riches of harvest, but scenes of sylvan beauty. Here, instead of the timid rabbit burrowing in the sand, the sprightly deer must have bounded through the glade, and the wild bison (Bos urusyj must have at one time strayed ; for the antlers of the former, and the skull of the latter, have, within the remembrance of some still alive, been dug up in this barren tract* But barren though it now be, it is not devoid of objects of in- terest and curiosity. In exploring this wilderness lately, we ob- served in a section of one of the sand-hills laid bare by the wind, a dark coloured stratum of considerable thickness, which proved to be partly peat, and partly loam or vegetable mould. On closer inspection, we found that the stratum was separated from the su- perincumbent sand by what was like a rusty plate of iron about an eighth of an inch in thickness, and easily broken. At various places, this iron-like substance descended several feet into the sand, in hollow pillars tapering downwards like great icicles. These were generally firmer and thicker than the horizontal plates, and with more of a metallic lustre when broken. These were rather puzzling appearances, but we attempted to account for them as follows. There are still to be found among these sand-hills little lagoons (Scotic6 lochans) full of water, except during the heat of summer. The stratum of moss and mould has probably been formed in the progress of many years, by the partial decay in the case of the moss, and by the total decomposition in the case of the mould, — of the water plants that grew in these little ponds. The rusty plate, on ^xamination, proved to be sand bound together by a de- position of oxide of iron ; and every person must have observed, that chalybeate waters deposit an ochreous matter on sand which they moisten. The total disappearance of the little ponds must have been owing either to the breaking down of the side of the hills, or to the hollows, in which they were formed, being filled up with drifted sand. The sand is constantly shifting, and conse- quently these iron-like plates are sometimes bare on the surface, and at other times deeply covered with sand. That the pillars are deposited by water impregnated with iron, is rendered likely by information that we lately received, that similar pillars are formed in the workings under-ground, descending as great stalactites from * We have seen the akuU of the bison, which was in the possession of Patrick War- ner, Esq. of Ardeer; but it was ttden. One pair of fossil antlers is in Ardeer House, and another pair in the possession of R. Cuninghame, Esq. Sea- Bank, were fbund at Misk, 22 feet under ground. 432 AYRSHIRE. ^he sandstone roof. In some cases those above look like lightning- tubes. Meteorology. — A register of the state of the barometer and ther- mometer, and of the wind and weather, has been kept for some years at the Manse. It is marked once a day, and the hour of marking is 1 o'clock, a. m. The Manse is only a mile from the sea, but it is placed on an elevated ridge above the village; and as the thermometer is 9 feet above the surface of the ground, on the outside of a window facing the north, it is in all 72 feet above the level of the sea at high-water. It is occasionally marked at the hottest time of the day, and at the coldest time of the evening or morning. It has only once, for seven years, been observed so high as 84% and only once so low as 18^ August 18, 1835, at 4 o'clock, p. m., the thermometer stood at 82^ in the sun, and at 72^ in the shade. When water was pumped on it from the manse well, 22 feet deep, it fell to 50^. August 12, 1835, at 8 o'clock in the evening, the thermometer in the open air stood at 56^; and when water was pumped on it from the well, it fell to 49°. February 19, 1835, at 7 o'clock in the morning, the thermo- meter at the bottom of the Turf-dike coal-pit, which is 408 feet deep, stood at 56^. When taken fifty yards into the workings, on the same level, where there is no current of air, it rose to 58°. In the running water at the bottom of the pit it stood at 54^. In the open air at the pit mouth it stood at 36° ; and when plunged into the canal it stood at 36°. July 8, 1835, 8 o'clock in the morning, the thermometer at the bottom of the Turf-dike coal-pit stood at 61°. In the open air at the pit-mouth it stood at 60°. December 29, 1836, at 6 o'clock in the morning, the thermo- meter at the bottom of the Turf-dike pit stood at 60°. When taken 300 yards into the workings it rose to 64° ; at the pit mouth it fell to 31°. When plunged into water in the open air, it rose to 32*. When plunged into water 300 yards into the workings be- low, it rose to 64°. December 28, 1836, at 6 o'clock in the morning, the thermo- meter at the bottom of No. 5 coal-pit stood at 61°. When taken 300 yards into the workings it rose to 64° ; in the open air at the pit^mouth it stood at 37^ Average height of the thermometer and barometer for the month STEVEN3T0N. 433 of the year 1835, taken at 10 o'clock a. m., 72 feet above the level of the sea. 1835. Thermometer* Barotneter, January, . 40^6I 30. Days clear wbcn re^isteredf 9 February, . 42.88 39.44 9 March, . . 44.51 29.83 12 April, . 49.30 30.27 5 May, . 55 29.79 10 June, . 61 .80 30.03 12 July, .. 62.46 29 81 16 August, 68.32 29.87 18 September, 56.73 2^41 9 October, . 49.55 t29.59 12 November, 44.X)2 29.91 8' December, . 40.38 30.24 9 Clear daya, 129 In general the S* W« is the prevalent wind ; but in 1835^ the N. E. was predominant, and the others, counting the days, stood in the following order : N. K, 87 ; S. W., 86 ; W., 64 ; S. 41 ; N. W., 88; N., 28; S. E., 19; E., la Average height of the thermometer throughout the year 1836, ^^^iVtj* Average height of the barometer throughout the year 1836, 29.84 1836 was a cold year, — under our usual average temperature; owing to the predominance of the north-east wind, — and the cloudi- ness of the weather. Out of the 366 days, only 129 were clear at the hour of taking the register.* Average height of the thermometer and barometer for the seve- ral months of the year 1836, taken at 10 o'clock a. m., 72 feet above the level of the sea at high water. 1836. Thermometer. Barometer. 29.68 Days clear when registered, 1 1 29.82 16 29.20 13 30.76 14 30.11 23 29.21 9 29.30 15 29.48 18 29.03 16 29.18 II 2a89 11 29.22 14 dear days 71 This year, cold as it was, the S. W. wind was as usual the pre* valent one. The following is the number of days, the wind be- * Frem the beginniDg of May till the end of September 1837, we find that 100 days were marked as clear ; and 103 fine or very fine. AYR. E e January, 40«.64 February, 40.11 March, 43.15 April, 44 .39 May, 56.62 June, 59.63 July, 58.51 August, 58.32 September, 64.02 October, 49.80 November, 42.10 December, 39.82 434 AYRSHIRE. iiig marked once a-day : S. W., 101 ; W., 69; N. E., 64; S., 42; N. W., 37; N., 24; E., 15; N. W., 14 days. Average height of the thermometer throughout the year 1836, 48'j%%. A remarkably cold and wet season ; though at the hour of taking the register 170 days are marked clear; being more than last year. But the forenoons were often the best part of the day. Average height of the barometer throughout year 1836, 29.49. On 13th October, the barometer if marked as low would have been 27.95. On 28th November, it was again 27.95 ; and on the 13th December, it was a third time lower than graduated, and would have been 27.93. On 31st October, the thermometer, half-past 7 o'clock in the morning, stood at 22°; and yet of this cold and variable and stormy year, 126 days are marked fine and very fine. Climate. — The climate of this parish, like that of the west coast in general, is certainly moist ; but the evils that might be expect- ed to arise from a moist and variable climate are in no small de- gree counteracted, not only by the hghtness of the soil along the coast, which drinks up the frequent showers, — but also by the ge- neral mildness of the atmosphere from the proximity of the sea.* The parish is healthy, and rather remarkable for the longevity of its inhabitants ; for during the last twenty-six years 18 persons have died in it between 90 and 100 years of age ; and lately one female died in the 103d year of her age. That the climate is genial, and that the soil is kindly and fer- tile, is evident from the earliness of the harvest; and from the finer kinds of fruits ripening well in our gardens in the open air. Figs ripen in this neighbourhood even in unfavourable seasons. Peaches are often ripe in the end of August, and early in Sep- tember; and when the season is favourable, they are greatly su- perior in flavour to those raised in hot-houses. Grapes also of various kinds ripen in the open air, in more places than one in the parish. A purple grape in good seasons ripens well at Sea Bank ; and in the Manse garden there is what may be called an Ayrshire vine, as it was raised from the seed of the royal Mus- cadine, ripened in the open air on the common stone wall of the garden. It is now of sufficient age to bear fruit ; and we hope * In the fonncr Statistical Report, while the climate is spoken of in general as salubrious, it is said that epidemic fevers are perhaps more frequent here than in the inland parishes. Wc are glad to say, that now fevers are considerably less frequent here, and in Saltcoats and Ardrossan, than in some of the neighbouring parishes. STEVENSTON. 435 that it will soon do credit to its Scottish origin. We have long had a yearly vintage of some dozens of good wine from our vine- yard ; but we must own that we are much more indebted to the prunings than to the grapes. The leaves and young wood con- tain much vinous juice, and when infused in boiling water, and some sugar added, yield a light sparkling wine called vinelloy supe- rior, we doubt not, to the Vicar of Wakefield's celebrated home- made wine. From the vegetable world also, we have the surest proofs of the mildness of our winters. Myrtles stand the winter without any cover, but flower only sparingly unless they have had some slight protection from the frost. Verbena triphylla^ and Passi^ flora cteruleoj and Fuschia coccinea. F, gracilis^ and JP. conica^ stand the winter, and flower profusely in summer. Erica arborea flowers in the open border, and even Erica Caffra stood several winters, and flowered in the open air. The lovely Cyclamen Coum^ which will not stand the winter in the inland parts of the country, seems as hardy here as its compeer the snowdrop. Agapanthus umbellatuSf or great African blue lily, and also Calla Ethiopica^ brave our winters. Gladiolus grandiflorus^ and Iris tuberosa flower without winter protection. The cape plant, Tritoma media^ flowers from November till June ; and at Christmas, unless it be hard frost, we can form a nosegay from the open border, of from twenty-five to fifty difierent kinds of flowers. The comparative mildness of our climate may be more evident from the subjoined record of the days when several plants begin to flower, marking the earliest and the latest times of commence- ment ; and also the average time, taken from observations made during a considerable number of years. These observations were chiefly made at the Manse, which stands on elevated ground sixty- three feet above the level of the sea. Had they been made at Sea Bank, which is considerably better sheltered, and fully forty feet lower, the period of flowering would have been earlier by some days. Hepaiicas. — Earliest time of flowering dth November; latest time 17th February. Average time of six years, 16th December. Cyclamen Coum. — Earliest, 2dd December; latest, 27th Fe- bruary. Average of six years, 24th January. Sdlla Sibirica. — Earliest, 5th December ; latest, 11th February, Average of six years, 14'th December. Snowdrops. — Earliest, 9th January; latest, Slst January. Ave- rage of nine years, 1 8th January. 436 AYRSHIRE. Crocus — Earliest, 21st January; latest 26th February. Ave- rage of sixteen years, 7th February. Dwarf Daffodil— EdirXiesi^ 21st February ; latest 2dd March. Common Daffodil — Earliest, 1st March; latest, dOth March. Average of five years, 16th March. Monthly Rose. — Earliest dd May ; latest 24th May. Average of seven years, 17th May. Hawthorn in flower. — Earliest 14th May ; latest 25 th May* Average of five years, 21st May. Gtitn Cistus in flower. — Earliest, 14th June ; latest, Idth July. Average of thirteen years, 29th June. Early pease. — Earliest blossom, 23d April ; latest, 10th May* Average of eight years, 1st May. Earliest dish of pease, without forcing or transplanting. — Ear- liest, 4th June; latest, 24th June. Average of ten years, 14th June. Asparagus. — Earliest dish, Idth April ; latest, 13th May. Ave- rage of eleven years, 27th April. We shall subjoin in the same manner the times when some of the feathered tribes have been first heard or seen. Mams or Thrush heard in full pipe, 13th December 1828, 15th December 1833, 20th January 1834, and 25th December 1834. Swallows seen. — Earliest 15th April; latest, 12th May. Ave- rage of eight years, 3d May. Cuckoo heard. — Earliest, 20th April ; latest, 6th May. Average of ten years, 80th ApriL * Corncrake or Landrail. — Marked only the last two years. Heard, 18th May 1835; and heard, 11th May 1836. Hydrography. — The parish is watered by no stream of note, except on the eastern boundary, for some miles by the GarnodlL ; and on the south-east, for a short space, by the mingled waves of the Garnock and Irvine, before they fall into the sea. The wind- ings of the Garnock, from Kilwinning to its junction with the Irvine, bear some resemblance to the celebrated windings of the Forth at Stirling. The banks of the rivulet, which flows through Stevenston, are of considerable beauty at Grange, and as far up as the Glen, where there is a picturesque little cascade. It is at present subjudice, whether Ashgrove Loch be in whole, or only in part, within this parish. It covers thirty or forty acres. * *< The sinteen dav of AberiU,* The Gouk the cncs Uitb loud and shill.*' * 29th April, new style. STEVENSTON. 437 Gtology and Mineralogy. — The rocks in this parbh are chiefly greenstone, limestone, and sandstone. Several of the little hilb are deep mounds of water-worn stones and sandy gravel. In digging for water at the Manse twelve years ago, the workmen, till they went down twenty feet, found nothing but a dry bed of this description ; and then, when they were beginning to lose hopes, excellent water sprung up, in sufficient abundance to supply the whole parish. On digging two feet deeper, they came to a stra- tum of clay. Before reaching the clay, they found mingled with the stones and gravel plenty of yellow ochre. In sinking for coal in the Turf-Dike pit, a seam of beautiful marble was found a foot thick, and probably extensive as the coal- field. It was not known at the time to be marble, so that only a few specimens were kept as curiosities, on account of the fossil shells closely imbedded in it. One of these specimens was polished in proof of its excellence, on our hearing that a splendid marble fire*place had been formed at Chatelherault of precisely the same layer or deposit, found on the Duke of Hamilton's property in that neighbourhood. The shells of which it is chiefly composed, Unio pictorum of Lamarck, or probably rather Unto Urii of Fleming, show that this stratum is probably of lacustrine origin, these fossils being fresh water shells. Quarries. — The Capon Craig Gaw, near Sea Bank, furnishes an inexhaustible mass of remarkably firm greenstone ; but it is but little wrought, except to be broken down for repairing the .highways. Ardeer or Stevenston Quarry, — This is the most valuable quarry of white fireestone or sandstone in the west of Scotland. The pro- duce of it has long been well known to the public under the name of Stevenston Stone, It is of very excellent quality* The colour is good ; and being firm and fine in the grain, and easily wrought, it takes a fine polish, and stands well. It is much used at home ; and it is still more in request in Dublin and Belfiist, and other places in Ireland ; for it can be sawn like marble, with which it vies in beauty, and it can be formed into slabs of any size required. At home, and also in Ireland, it is used in the interior of houses, for stairs, the pavement of lobbies and halls, and for chimney-pieces, &c. ; and externally, it is employed in public and private buildings for fronts, and chimneys, and columns, &c. Columns can be furnish- ed of any dimensions, from 10 to 20 feet and upwards in altitude. It is used also for tomb-stones, and gate-posts, &c. The quarry 438 AYRSHIRE. lies from south-west to north-east, and the dip is to the south-west, the same as the coal strata, betwixt the first and the second of which it is found. It is in irregular layers or posts, varying from 6 inches to 6 feet in thickness. It requires to be bared, where it is at present wrought, of about 25 feet of different kinds of soil, viz. of about 4 feet of sand, 3 feet of loam, and the rest, down to the rock, till, or clate-clay. The stone passes from the quarry to Ardrossan by the railway, and is shipped at 10s- per ton of 16 cu- bical feet The averjge number of men employed in the quarry is 35, and their average pay is 13s. per week. ' Parkend Quarry, — This quarry is of very superior Osmond stone^ which is in much request for ovens, furnaces, &c. There is also a bed of schist on the shore at Saltcoats, which stands the fire, and is used for furnaces. It is full of organic remains. HaUer hirst Limestone quarry. — This is a quarry which has not only been profitable to the public-spirited proprietor, but has tended much to the improvement of the parish. As the lease of it has expired, operations have been at a stand for some months, but will recommence, I doubt not, ere long with fresh spirit. The number of men employed in the quarry varies, but may average throughout the year, 8 or upwards, at 12s. per week. The lime- stone, when burned, is sold at the kiln at Is. 4d. per boll. There is abundance of limestone on the fine estate of Grange ; but at present, no more of it is quarried than is required for that portion of the estate which is fermed by the proprietor. The limestone and the sandstone quai-ries, and the whole of the coal-fields in the parish, are interesting in a scientific point of view, from the numerous organic remains which they contain. What changes must have taken place within the boun- daries of this little parish ! In the lower grounds we have a stra* tum of firm rock, indicating, as we observed by the shells it con- tains, that it was once the silt at the bottom of a fresh-water basin. The sea shells, the remains of star-fish, &c. imbedded in the lime- stone and schist, teach us, with equal certainty, that these rocks, which now hold an elevated situation, were originally formed at the bottom of the mighty deep.* In the sandstone quarry again, and in the schist connected with the coal, we have beautiful impres- sions of ferns, reeds, Stigmaria^ Sigillaria, Lepidodendra, and other * The shells, &c. in the limestone and till connected with it arc mimerous and va- rious. The shells in the shale connected with the coal are chiefly of the genera, Unio^ Nncula^ and Euomphahu. STEVENSTON. 439 plants unknown in the present day, many of them 420 feet beneath the surface of the earth, but which must once have flourished un- der the smihng sun in luxuriant vegetation. We are lost in won^ der when we think of these things ; and one end which the con- templation of them serves, is to convince us that we are supreme - ly ignorant Coal Miries, — As the coal mines furnish a rich source of emolu- ment and employment to so many in the parish, it is necessarj' to give some account of them in former times, and also in the present day. The working of coal as an article of commerce appears to have com- menced in Britain about the end of the twelfth century. The first charter giving liberty to the inhabitants of Newcastle to dig for coal was in 1239 ; and in 1291, a charter was given for the same purpose to the Abbey and Convent of Dunfermline. Even in 1579, however, coal seems to have been so little known on the continent, that we find Abraham Ortel, in his " Theatrum ofbis terrarum," saying, " E;i la region de Fifsy se tire grand nombre de pierres noires hors de terre^ fort propre a /aire feu." « When they began in this parish to dig up those '' black stones" for fuel, we do not know. Though we have no written record, there is a tra- dition, supported by the remains of considerable heaps of ashes in the neighbourhood of the present town of Saltcoats^ that salt was manufactured there at a very early period. It was then made, it is said, in their little pans or kettles, by poor people who lived in cots on the shore, and who at very small expense digged up the coal near the surface of the ground, to carry on their manufacture. In 1656, the whole parish was purchased by Sir Robert Cuning- hame; and after his death in 1678, his estate came into the pos- session of his nephew of the same name, who soon began to carry on the public works with a degree of spirit till that time unknown in the parish. He began his operations at what is called the deep shanki in the little holm to the east of Stevenston kirk and Bum ; and erected a water-wheel to draw the water out of that pit. He also, with great spirit and judgment and perseverance, put down several shafts or pits in the coal-field, at considerable distances from each other, to ascertain the thickness, quality, and decHvity of the various strata, as well as the position of the chief troubles ; and the papers which he left to his successors shewed the surprising exactness of the knowledge he had thus obtained, and proved of great service to them in their operations. On the west side, too, of the parish, he drove a level mine, for a mile and 440 AYRSHIRE. a-half, through his own coaUfield and part of Lord Eglinton's, which laid the upper part of several of the seams dry ; and the coal which was wrought at the townhead of Saltcoats and some other places, was carried up, by stairs, on the backs of the wives and daughters of the colliers. It was in vain, however, to turn out coal, unless it could be taken to market; and as Dublin afforded by far the best mar- ket, he saw the necessity of having a harbour at Saltcoats, and accordingly he began his operations for this purpose about 1684, at what had till this time been called the Creek of Saltcoats. The building of the harbour was a work of time, and difficulty, and expense, as the winter storms often demolished much of what had been reared in summer. But it was completed about the year 1700 ; and it remains till this day, as a monument of this talented, enterprising, and public-spirited gentleman. The only aid he ob* tained, was the excise, for nineteen years, of the ale used in the parish of Stevenston, granted by an act .of the Scottish Parlia- ment ; but as the excise duty was very low, and as there were few to drink the ale in these days, he was not greatly benefited by this. He constructed salt*pans also at considerable expense. And as there were no steam-engines in these days, the water-wheel which he formed, and the two gins which he employed, drawn by sixteen horses, for freeing the pits of water, along with the ex- pense resulting from his skilful survey of the coal-field, and the building of the harbour, more than swallowed up his profits. From this and other circumstances, he found it necessary to dispose of much of his fine property. Kerila, with its rich adjoining grounds, he sold to John Hamilton, Esq. of Grange, in 1685. Ducathall and Ardeer, and that large tract extending as far as the Misk, he sold to the Rev. Patrick Warner, of Irvine, in 1707. On that part of the estate near Saltcoats which he retained, he built in 1708 the house of Sea Bank for his own residence. He died in 1715. At the time of his death, the public works were in a low state, and a manager was appointed, who carried them on for two years. Afterwards,^ the coal and salt-works were let to the shipmasters of Saltcoats, for the yearly rent of L. 250. Having heard that steam- engines had begun to be employed for pumping water, diese spirited shipmasters employed Provost M'Taggart of Irvine, who had joined them in the lease, to go to London to purchase a steam- engine, and to engage an experienced person to ^t up the engine, STEVENSTON. 441 and to superintend its operation. This was in 1719, only five years after the steam-engine had begun to be employed at New* castle ; and this was the second that had been set up in Scotland. The cylinder, howeyer, of Newcomen's engine/ which was purchas- ed, was only 18 inches in diameter, and the engineer, after carry- ing on for some time an unsuccessful contest, decamped in the night. Another engineer from Newcastle was engaged, but still the water could not be kept under. Seeing,^however, a good field of coal, he took, as one of the partners of an English com- pany, the lease, which the shipmasters willingly gave up, agree- ing to pay, as they had done, L. 250 a-year, for thirty-one years. This new Company carried on the works till 1728, when they failed. The coal and salt-works came then into the hands of a company in Falmouth, who carried them on till 1731, when they also failed. A law-suit having taken place, the Lords of Session, in 1732, appointed Mr John Cuninghame of Windyhall, as factor and manager, to carry on the^works. About this time, James Cuninghame of Auchenharvie died, and was succeeded by his son, Robert, a minor. Mr Cuninghame of Windyhall seems to have proceeded with great spirit, and set up an engine of 88 inches cylinder at the deep shank at Stevenston. In 1733, Ro- bert Cuninghame of Auchenharvie died, and his sisters succeeded as heirs-portioners. In 1737, the eldest of them was married to • Mr John Reid, second son of the Rev. Mr Reid, minister of Ste- venston ; and soon after this Mr Cuninghame of Windyhall ceased to be manager of the public works, — Mr John Reid of Sea Bank, we believe, taking the charge of them. From this time, for more than a quarter of a century, they were carried on under the direction of the heirs-portioners, but with lit- tle success, it would appear, as in 1763 they were let for nineteen years to Mr A. Crawford, with two breaks in the lease. He died in 1765, and his friends availed themselves of the first of these breaks, and gave up the lease about 1767. Brighter days, however, were now about to arise. In 1770, Robert, the eldest son of John Reid of Sea Bank, succeeded his father, and, in consequence of a special agreement with the heirs- portioners, became possessed of the estate of Auchenharvie, and added the name of Cuninghame to his own. The right for fifty- seven years, which had been retained when Ardeer was sold, of working the coal on that property, having now expired, he enter- ed into a copartnery with Mr Warner, of Ardeer, to work the coal 442 ^ AYRSHIRE. on their respective properties, Mr Reid Cuninghame, of Auchen* harvie, being the sole manager. One of the first operations of this enterprizing and succcessful manager, was to improve the har- bour of Saltcoats, and to form a canal from the coal-field to the harbour, a distance of more than two miles. In those days this was no small undertaking, but it was accomplished, and the canal navigated in 1772, being the first on which business was done in Scotland. It would lead us greatly to overpass our limits to trace his proceedings ; but the best proof of the judgment and spirit with which he acted is, that, for some years previous to bis death in )814, the profits shared by the partners were from .. L. 2000 to L. 6000 a-year. Subsequent to the death of Mr Reid Cuninghame of Auchen- harvie, Mr Beaumont acted as manager for the Company, for ten years. For the last ten years, it has been under the management of Mr Croker, who has carried on the extensive operations that were necessary, with great skill, steadiness, and success. The quantity of coal raised from Stevenston colliery during the year, ending 29th October 1836, was as follows: — Round Coal, Parrot Coal Small Coal Tom, fAkuia. Tons, Loads, Tons, Loads, Tons. Loads. 31,510 4 1164 1 8115 Exported of the above. Total. 40,859 6" 26>998 4 211 1 70 4 Consumed at home. Total, 27,280 1 4512 953 8114 4 Total, 13,579 1 The coal is generally shipped at from 8s. 6d* to 10s., and at pre- sent 12s. 6d. per ton of 28 cwts., and sold in Dublin, Belfast, &c. from 12s. 6d. to 16s., and at present, 20s. per ton of 20 cwt. The small coal or culm, at from 4s. to 5s. 4d. per ton, is sold for the salt-works or lime-burning. The coal strata in this parish extend from Irvine harbour, and the river Garnock on the east, to Saltcoats harbour on the west- em boundary of the parish ; and, no doubt, extend a great way under the sea. They are intersected by several dislocations, the direction of which has been fully ascertained. The chief of these dislocations is a true mineral vein or dike, composed of green- stone of a very close texture, intermingled with numerous spots of a light green-coloured spar. It is known by the name of the Capoti'-craiff'ffaWf and is distinctly seen rising abov^all the other strata, on the north side of the town of Stevenston. Its general line of bearing is IP west of north. This dike is about 16 yards • About 28 cwt. to the ton. STEVENSTON 443 in thickness. It intersects the coal strata in a perpendicular direc- tion, and in all likelihood to an impenetrable depth. It disjoins the coal strata from 16 to 20 yards, and injures the seams of coal for a few yards on each side, giving them a charred appearance, but has no effect in elevating or depressing the strata on either side. The other dislocations of the strata in this coal-field, are known by the name of steps or slipSj and are of much more common oc- currence than the dislocation or dike before-mentioned. These slips * not only disjoin the coal strata, but throw them up or down, from the extent of a foot to many fathoms. The first of these slips, east of Capon-craig-gaw, is known by the name of the Turf-dike. It^ direction is 25° west of north. This slip begins to be perceptible in a pit 40 fathoms deep, and increases so to the dip, that at the depth of 50 fathoms, it is found to be a slip of 7 fathoms up to the east. This being the lowest point where this dislocation has been touched, we may conclude that it continues to increase towards the dip. The 2d slip east from the Turf-dike is known by the name of the Piper-haugh shp. Its direction is 35° west of north, and it throws the coal strata 20 fathoms up to the north-east. The dd slip east from the Piper- haugh is known by the name of the No. 5. slip. Its direction is west of north 30°, and it throws the coal strata 7 fathoms down to the north-east. The 4th slip east from No. 5 is known by tiie name of the Boghead slip. Its direction is 22° west of north, and it throws the coal strata 5 fethoms up to the north-east The 5th slip east from the Boghead slip is known by the name of the Mill- dam slip. Its direction is lO"" west of north, and it throws the strata 15 fathoms up to the eastward. The 6th slip east from the Mill-dam slip is known by the name of the Tod-holes slip, being found in the Tod-holes workings in the parish of Kilwinning. It passes through the eastern extremity of this parish in the same di- rection as the former, throwing the strata 4 fathoms up to the east- ward. The 7th slip is in the east part of the Misk working. The extent of this slip has not been ascertained, but it is one of a few fathoms only. The only dislocation of the strata of any consequence, to the west of the Capon-craig gaw^ is known by the name of the Cu- ninghame-head slip, which runs nearly in the same direction as the slips previously mentioned. It is situated a little to the west of the tower at Sea Bank, and is said to be a slip only of a few fathoms. • Step is the term used here, but slip is in more general use elsewhere. 444 AYBSHIRE. Besides the above-mentioned slip, there are several of less con- sequence, adjoining to Saltcoats harbour, which, being at the western extremity of the parish, can have little influence on any operations carried on within the bounds. The line of bearing of this coal-field is in an eastern and a western direction. The dip of the strata is southward, and the rise consequently is to the north, which dip and rise decline on an average from the horizon, about I in 7^, The operations of the late Robert R. Cuninghame, Esq. were at first chiefly at the Misk, next, from the Piper-haugh westward. But from 1784, till lately, the mining operations in this parish were chiefly confined to a winning made by steam machinery, which gain- ed the five-quarter, parrot, turf, and little coal, at the depth of 54^ fathoms. The chief engine employed here is on the Watt and Bolton construction. It was made by Mr John Nelson, Glasgow, and is thought of first rate excellence. The cylinder is 5 feet in diameter, with 8 feet stroke; and pumps Id^ inches bore, dis- charging 4 tons of water per minute. Of late, a mine has been run to the dip across the strata, and a pit sunk at the extremity, which gives the Bow-bridge, five-quar- ter, parrot, turf, and little coal, at the depth of 70 fathoms. About two years ago a pit was sunk near Bog, called No. 6, which gi^es the main coal, at the depth of 44 fathoms ; and they are at present engaged in sinking a pit. No. 7, which will give the same coal, close on the Gamock. Section of the various strata known to exist in Stevenston Colliery, as Jar as its operations have extended* Hock, ^e. Strata. Coai Sttati*. Faih. Ft. In, Futh, Ft, ///. Sand, . . . . 4 Sandstone, • • • . 8 Clay schistUB, blaes, or till, . . 4 Hard stone, like marble, full of Umo unl, 1 Various strata, • • • 10 1. Bow- Bridge Coal This coal is cubical, of good 3 2 quality, but tender. Head coal, 10 inches ; stone, 10 inches ; lower band, 2 feet, 2 inches ; the puve- ment very soft ; the roof good. The fine sandstone or freestone of Ardeer or Ste- venston quarry, . . 10 Slate clay, or till, &e. • • 6 U % Crawford CoaL-— This coal is cubical, and uf good quality, rather tender. It is divided into two bands of 2 feet each. On the east side of the Capon- Craig Gaw, the dividing stone is soft, and about 4 feet thiek, and the roof and pavement are soft. On the west side the coal is better, the division -stone thinner, and the roof and pavement good, . 4 STEVENSTON. 445 Rock, ^c. Strata, Coal Strata. Fatfu Ft, In, Path, Ft. ttu Sandstone, and argillaceous beds, . 122 5. Five-quarter Cou. — Tbis coal is of good quality, 3 9 and suitable for sale. In some pllices to the east- ward only 2 feet 7 inches thick. Sandstone, and argillaceous beds, . . 10 4. Parrot Coali — This coal is of good quality. The 4 9 upper part being a mixture of cubic and splint, ig very suitable for exportation. In the middle there are 9 inches of good parrot, and 4 inches of black or infivior parrot, and 3 or 4 inches of free-ooal. The parrot finds a very ready sale for the gas- works. This seam varies in thickness. On the west side of Capon-Craig Gaw it is 7 feet thick. Sandstone and argillaceous beds, . . 2 3 b. Turf CoaL-— This eoal is cubical, of excellent qua. 2 8 Uty, and very suitable for the market. Sandstone and argillaceous beds, . . 2 & Little Coal_This ooal is cubical, of excellent 2 4 quality, but so tender, that it is not so suitable for dipping as the turf coal. Sandstone and argillaceous beds, 20 7. Daviess Coal. — This coal is of good quality, cubi- 2 8 cal, and suits the eea sale, it varies in thfckness, and is divided by a stone of 7 inches. Sandstone and argillaceous beds, . 6 6. Little Parrot Coal This cannot be taken into 2 6 account as a workable coal. Sandstone and argillaceous beds, . 4 9. Lower Little Coal.— This being very thin, is not I 6 taken into account as a workable coal. Sandstone and argillaceous beds, . ^600 10. Lower Little Parrot Coal. — It is not long since 4 this was found to be so thick. It is wought in a pit near No. 5. The upper part is cubical, and fit for exportation. The parrot, as an excellent gas coal, finds a ready sale. Sandstone and argillaceous beds, . 4 2 11. Main Coal -'-This is composed of two bands, di- 4 vided by a stone from 1 inches to 2 feet thick. It is cubical, of good quality, and. suitable fi>r ship* ping. Sandstone and argillaceous beds, . 10 12. Raise Coal.—- Iliis is a foul sulphureous coal, fit 3 6 only for lime>buming and salt-making. It has never been seen on the east side of the Capon- Craig Gaw. Rock, &c. 122 6 6 2 10 Coal, 6 2 19 Fathoms. 129 10 Feet, 774 10 The manner in which this coal-field is wrought is by running dip-head levels from the shaft, exactly in the line of bearing of the coal-field, from which, at certain equal distances, rooms are set off a-cropping, which, when driven up, are thirled occasionally, leaving pillars sufficient to support the roof. There are at present four pits going, in which are employed, 446 AYRSHIRE. under ground, 140 men, and 50 boys. Above ground, there is a manager, clerk, overseer, pit-head-men, machine-men, engine- men, and labourers, amounting to 30 more, besides 5 smiths, 3 Wrights, and 1 mason. There are also 20 men with horses em- ployed on the rail-road. How many find employment in the land and sea carriage of the 40,000 tons sold in the year, we cannot tell. The colliers receive at present 5s. a-day. Their employ- ment is laborious and dangerous. The loss of life, by stones from the roof, or similar calamities, has, during the last twenty-five years, been at the rate of one every year. And much injury is often sustained where life is not lost The works are at present well ventilated ; but when this is not the case, the fool-hardy and the thoughtless are scorched by the inflammable air. Even when' the safety-lamp has shewn that there is danger, there are some who rashly engage in work, forgetful that though the safety-lamp caus- ed no explosion, their own lamps may soon work destruction. After being so long in the lower parts of the earth, with plea- sure we emerge to enter on more congenial subjects. " Hail, holy light, ofispring of Heaven, first born I— £8cap*d the Stygian pitf Uiough long detained In that obscure sojourn ; thee we revisit safe, And feel thy sovereign vital lamp,** &c. Zoology. — Among the Mammalia, we may mention Lutra vuU garisi the otter, occasionally seen in the Garnock; Phocavitulinay the seal ; and Delphinus phocosna, the porpoise or pellack, both of them being often .seen in the sea near the shore. Sorex fodiens may be mentioned, a variety of which has been seen, with reddish- brown throat, and without the black line along the middle of the belly. RQhbit8.-^T\iQ rabbits, which are so numerous, must not be passed over in silence. They were introduced by the late R. Reid Cuninghame, Esq. who, in 1777, brought about fifty pairs of them from the Little Cumbrae. This little colony soon stocked the sand-hills. There are about 500 dozens killed in this parish every year. Their carcases are sold at lOd. a-pair. The skins, which formerly sold at 15s. a dozen, have fallen to 2s. 8d. The breed is the common or gray rabbit. The ground might be turned to much better account. STEVENSTON. 447 Ornithology. — The rarer birds found in the parish are : Coturnix vulgaris, the quail Phalaropus lobatus, Grey phalarope Phosianus colcbicus, the pheasant Numenius pbax)pus, Whimbrel Columba turtur, the turtle-dove, one Totanus calidris. Redshank shot in the parish three years ago Scolopax gallinula, Jack-snipe Buteo vulgaris, Common buzzard Charadrius hiaticula, Ring-dottrel - cineraceus, Ash-coloured buzzard Hematopus ostral^us. Oyster- catcher Falco tinnunculusi Kestrel Phalacrocorax carbo. Cormorant Striz flammea, the barn owl Sula bassana, Solan goose — stridula, the howlet Anas tadoma, Sheldrake Caprimulgus europaeus, the goat -sucker — — penelope, Wigcon Cinclus aquaticus, the water ouzel crecca, Teal Saxicola cenanthci the wheat-ear Colymbus glacialis, Northern diver Curruca atricapilla, Black-cap Uria troile, Guillemot Regulus cristatus, Golden-crested wren Larus argentatus. Herring-gull Emberiza schceniculus, Black-bonnet canus, Sea-mew Alauda arborea, Wood-lark ■ . marinus, Black-backed gull Parus ceeruleus, Blue titmouse ridibundus, black-headed gull P. caudatus, Long-tailed titmouse Alca torda, Razor-bill Fringilla spin us. Siskin arctica. Puffin or Ailsa cock Pyrrhula vulgaris, Bullfinch Sturnus vulgaris, the starling Alcedo ispida, Kingsfisher Coracias garrula, the roller, has been Rallus aquaticus, Water rail seen in this parish.* crex. Corncrake Ichthyology, — The following fishes may be mentioned, though a good ichthyologist, we doubt not, could add many more, not more valuable, but more rare. The lake and river fish are, Esox lucius. Pike Anguilla vulgaris, Eel Perca fluviatilis, Perch Salmo £irio, Trout The sea fish are, Salmo salar, Salmon Lophius piscatorius, Angler or wide>gab — trutta, Sea-trout Trigia gurnardus. Grey gurnard Clupea harengus. Herring .__ cuculus. Red gurnard Morhua vulgaris, Cod Mugil cephalus, Mtfllet -»— *~ seglefinus, Haddock Scomber vulgaris^ Mackerel Merlangus vulgaris, Whitins Raia batis, Skate ..^_.-.-. carbonarius. Coal-fish or sethe —— clavata, Thornback Solea vulgarus, Sole — radiata. White skate Platessa vulgaris, Plaise Spinax acanthias. Dogfish — — .— — flesus. Flounder Molva vulgaris, Ling — — limanda. Common dab Pleuronectes maximus, Turbot Ammody tcs tobianus, Launce or sand-eel Merlangus pollachias, Lythe — ..^-i— ~~ lanceolatus ? 13 inches long Trachinus draco, Sting-fish Crustaceology, — Lithodes maia Galathea squamifera Gonoplax Corystes cassivelaunus Nephrops Norwegicus luachus Dorsettensis. Pagurus Bemhardus Lepas anatifera Radiata. — Echinocyamus pusillus , Asterias papposa ; A. gla" dalis ; Ophiura brachiata ; O. bellis ; Actinia equina ; A. senilis ; A. parasitica^ mentioned in the Annates des Sciences as a new species. It is at times very common on this shore, and found on univalve shells, and M. Duges of Montpellier says, only on shells • A white robin was caught near the Manse, and an attempt made to to rear it,— but it died. 448 AYRSHIRE. inhabited by the hermit-crab ; and he supposes that it feeds on the crab's leavings. It makes requital, however, by enlarging with its body, and a horny substance which it secretes, the hermit's cell, and forms a better nest for the eggs than the simple shell would do. The colouripg of the Actinia is very brilliant. We are not aware that it has been observed by British naturalists. We found * lately a magnificent Medusa on the shore, which seemed to corre- spond to the description given of Rkizostoma undulata^ found on the shores of Cornwall. It was more than a yard in diameter. Zoophyta. — The following corallines and other zoophytes have been picked up on the shore ; and we doubt not that in this, a§ in the other departments, by more careful inspection, the list might be greatly enlarged : Corallina officinalis ; Akyonium echinatum ; Halichondria suberica; Grantia compressa; Millepora polymoT" pha ; Discopora verrucaria ; Flustra truncata ; F. membranacea ; F. pilosa ; CellulaHa reptans ; Crisia ebumea ; Notamia lorictda" ta ; Sertularia polyzonias ; S, rugosa ; Dynamena abietina ; D. argentea; D.pumila; D. operculaia; Campanularia geniculata; C dichotoma; C. volubilis ; Plumularia pluma ;' Jania rubens; Celkpora pumicosa,* And here we may notice those phosphorescent medusae which often give such brilliancy by night to the agitated waves of our westr em sea. Conchology, — There is seldom shell-fish of any kind in such abundance on our shore, as to be worth collecting for the market But if we cannot boast of delicious oysters, and mussels, and cockles to gratify the gourmand, we can hold out to our scientific friends a ^^ feast of shells," which many of them will be disposed to think still more delectable. As that distinguished naturalist, Pro- fessor Fleming of Aberdeen, (to whose kindness we have been indebted for much of our molluscal lore,) says that our concholo- gical stores make some approach to those of* the coast of Devon- shire, we shall, along with some of our land and fresh water MoU IttsctBf insert a list of the rarer shells picked up by us on the shore of this parish, chiefly betwixt Saltcoats harbour and Stevenston bum-foot ; employing the nomenclature of Dr Fleming in his va- luable and well-known work, «* The British Animals." Several of them, we suspect, are new to Scotland ; and two of them, we believe, are non-descripts, and have not before been found. * Some specimens of foreign corals and shells have been found on the shore. STEVENSTON. 449 Sepia officinalis Octopus octopodia Helix trochilus — — crystallina — — rotundata — — arbustonim — — hortensis costata Bulixnus lubricus Succinea putris Vitrina pellucida Pupa edentula Carychium minimum Balea perversa Limnea pahistris Patella pellucida — — - laevis Troohus Magus I tumidus — — ziziphinus — ■» noD-d«cript* Velutina kovigata Cypraea Europea Tornatella tornatilis Nasa reticulata — »» incrassata Buccinum undatum Fusus corneus — — — turricola Anodon anatinus Cardium aculeatum ■ exiguum - medium •- la*vigatum costatus virginca clypei Chiton margmatus ruber Bulla lignaria *-■■ 'aperta Turbo rudis Cingula alba — striata ■ labiosa — septangularis — nebula linearis purpureus Pleurotoma sinuosa Tritonalia erinacea Rostellaria pes.peleoani Sigaretus haliotoideus £marginula fissura Fecten maximus — opercularisf — «— ^ sinuosus Coi1>ula striata Mactra solida Mactra stultorum alba, ray- less var. Amphidesma convexum — — — pubescens declive compressum - -- ovale — ulvae subumbilioata Scalaria Clathrua — — Turtoni Nerita glaucina « pallidula — — — — varius — — — obsoletus . — Islandicus — -— - non-descriptj: Anomia aculeata Pectunculus piloaus Nucula nucleus Modiola discors Tellina fiibuU ■ donacina ■ squalida — crassa Psammobia Ferroensis — - '■ solidula Astarte Scotica Lucina radula — .-..^ flexuoaa Cyprina Islandica Cytherea cxoleta ' Itncta Venus Cassina ■ gallida — - rugosa £tsciata — undata I ■«- aurea Venerupis virgicea * This beautiful non-descript Trochut was first found by Major Martin, Mayrilla Cottage, and afterwards by ourselves near Stevenston burn-foot, where five specimens, all that have ever been got, were found- The trochus it resembles most, is T. cjlcU' peraius^ but it is lighter in the colour and larger in size, and broader in proportion to its length. The T. exatp, is fths of an inch by j^ths. The new T. is|th»of aninch by f . f Who has not, when a boy, admired the easy and graceful motions of playful trouta in a pool of limpid water ? And have we not at times been disposed to pity the shell-fish, capable as we thought of nothing more, if even so much as snail-like motion ; except when by the wave of the sea they were driven about and tossed ? We were not a little pleased, however, lately to find, that our pity with re- spect to some of them at least, is very much misplaced. We observed on a sunny September day, in a pool of sea water left on Stevenston strand by the ebbing tide, what we at first thought some of the scaly brood at play. On closer investigation, however, we found that it was the fry of Pecten opercularU skipping quite nimbly through the pool. Their motion was rapid and sig-zag, very like that of ducks in a sunny blin'k, rejoicing in the prospect of rain. They seemed, by the sudden opening and oloaing of their valves, to have the power of darting like an arrow through the water. One jerk carried them some yards, and then by another sudden jerk they were off in a moment in a different tack. We doubt not that their full-grown youths ct>gaSC; in similar amusements, though as pcetem of greater gravity they choose to romp unseen, and play their gambols in the deep. This pecUn is the e/att, or as it is called in the west the t^mp, which children ga* ther with delight on the shore, and at the age we saw it perform, it was only about the size of a silver groat. Tlie Pecten Jacobeut, a rarer species of the clam or scallop, was worn by pilgrims of old as a token that they had crossed the sea on a visit to some shriue, and were consequently entitled to " Fix the Scallop on their hat before." X This non-descript pecten is very beautiful, but we have never yet got a perfeot specimen. We found two valves at different times, but they were not matches, and both of them seemed young. It resembled the fry of Pecten opercularis, but it had double the number of ribs, and the ears were different in shape from those of P. operntUtrits AYR. F f 450 AYRSHIRE. Venerupis decussaU Soleil pellucidus Lutraria vulgaris Cyclas oorneus Hiatella rugosa Lima fragilis. Teredo navalis Mya truncata Pupa muscorum Xylophaga dorsalis Planorbis vortex sexdentata Pholas crispata — ■■ spirorbis The following, found in the neighbourhood, may be added : Clausilia perversa, Tellina puoicea Pecten niveus^ Physa fontinalis Psammobia costulata .i— Tslandicus Bulla cylindracea Acteon denticulatus nebulosus Cingula Calathisca bidentatus . Trochus crassus — striatula Capulus hungaricus Terebratula aurita. — — — ^— dispar Venus senea. Planorbis complanatus Plauorbis carinatus Botany. — When we consider that about 1200 acres are nearly covered with drifting sand, and that the rest of this little parish is so rich and valuable, that as much as possible of it is in a state of cultivation, one would not expect that it would afford much scope fo the botanist. He might make out a list, however, that might stand comparison with the Flora of parishes of far greater pro- mise. But we regret, that from the nature of this publication, and the space already occupied, only a very few out of the long list of phenogamous and cryptogamous plants can be inserted. Pheuogamoua. Osmuiida regalis Hypnum brevirostre Teesdalia nudicaulis Ophioglossum vulgatum ^^o^' Brasdca Monensis Pilularia globuUfera Cystoseira ericoidesf Crambe maritima Fungi. Pbyllophora rubens Cicborium Intybus Tuber cibarium Polysipbonia atro-rubescens Convolvulus soldanella Phallus caninus* ' badia Hyoscyamus niger Mosses. Dasya coccinea Litboapermun:! oiaritimum Gymnostomum tenue Grifiithsia equisetifulia Nymphasa alba' Weissia crispula Calitbamnion roscum Polemonium coBruleum Didymodon rigidulus Chylochladia articulata Lysimachia verticillata trifarius Rhodomela lycopodioides Ranunculus lingua Dicranum subulatum Rhodomenia laciniata Raphanus maritimus Tortula rigida Sphasrococcus coronopifoHus Sedum villosum — •— — convoluta Utricularia vulgaris Orthotrichura Drumraondii Trifolium fra^ferum ■■ — — pulchellum Cryptogamous, Hookeria lucens Ferns. Hypnum trichominoides Botrychium lunaria — - — tenellum There is a good deal of wood round the mansions of the re- sident heritors. The finest trees in the parish are those that form the old avenue leading to Grange, and originally to the ancient Castle of Kerilaw. But though the trees in general are not of great antiquity^ the plantations are pretty extensive around Ardeer and Sea Bank, and still more around Grange ; so that the parish when viewed from the shore or from the sea, has a remarkably rich, clothed, comfortable appearance. The aspect of the parish, indeed, from several points of view, is remarkably pleasing. One of the best views of it is, as you ap- • New to Scotland, and found on the boundaries of the glebe, -f- New to Scotland. STEVENSTON, 451 proacli Stevenston from Kilwinning. In the foreground you have the church and part of the village. The noble back-ground is formed by the wooded heights above Sea Bank, surmounted by the magnificent peaks of Arran in the distance. The view from the south, though of quite a different character, is scarcely inferior to this. From the shore, all the principal residences in the parish are seen on the gentle acclivity before you. Ardeer, with its green wood and terraced gardens, is conspicuous on the right. More in* land, you have HuUerhirst on a very commanding site, and Hay- ocks still -prominent over a thriving young plantation. Worthy of the centre of the scene, you behold the mansion house of Grange, and the ivy-mantled turrets of ancient Kerilaw, embowered in woods, stretching onward to the distant glen. In the fore-ground, you have the stately church and modest manse above the subjacent village, on a situation not surpassed by any on the coast. Lovely Mayville salutes you on the left, breathing odours from a thousand shrubs and flowers. Sheltered, and sweet, and cheerful. Sea Bank presents itself on the west, with its green fields, and woody braes, and Martello tower, and mounted battery. And the tower and spire of Saltcoats form a good termination on the left ; for though it has few surrounding trees to give ^softness to chimney tops and archi- tectural angles, it compensates at times by its forest of masts, a most interesting feature in sea-coast scenery. And still more delightful are the views from the parish. Arran, to the south-west, beyond all doubt, forms the most striking feature in the landscape. Westward, the view embraces Ardrossan Castle and harbour and town, as well as the Isles of Bute and Cumbraes, and is terminated by part of Cantyre, and by the two pinnacles of Jura, and a hill in the north of Islay. To the south and south- west, you have the Craig of Ailsa, as it were, floating on the wave, and in favourable states of the atmosphere you have at times a dis- tant view of Ireland. More to the left, you see Irvine and Troon, and Ayr, and the coast of Carrick, till it meets with Wigtonshire, near Lochryan. More to the east you have the tower of Kilwin- ning, the castle and extensive woods of Eglinton, the distant Gal- loway hills near Carsphairn, and the Carrick hills above Straiten. And towards the north-east you see a rich tract of Cuninghame about Kilmaurs and Kilmarnock ; while more remote you see Lou- don Hill rising from the plain, as if to vie with Ailsa Craig on the other side, emerging from the deep. 452 AYRSHIRE. 11. — Civil History. We have already meDtioned that, in the twelfth century, More^ ville, Lord of Cuninghame, and High Constable of Scotland, gave to a family of the name of Loccard the barony of Stevenston, com- prehending the present parish, and the lands of Corsbie in west Kilbride ; and the lands of Gill and Munich in Dairy ; and the parish, according to Chalmers in his " Caledonia," took its name from Stephen, one of Loccard or Lockhart's sons. From the Lockharts it seems soon to have come into the possession of the Loudon family, from whom the name of Saltcoats- Campbell is still given to that part of the town which is in this parish. * We do not know with certainty how long it belonged to the Loudon family. There is a tradition that Kerila Castle was for some time the resi- dence of the Abbot of Kilwinning, but we have not been able to ascertain the truth of this. It is certain, however, that before and after the Reformation the parish belonged to the Earl of Glencairn. We have lately seen a lease for 999 years, granted by Glencairn, signed and seal** ed by him in 1545, at Kerila. "f* It is one of nine given about that period to nine fishermen in Saltcoats, by which each of them was to have some falls of ground, still called the Nine Yards, in that town, and also pasture for a cow and a follower, on the moor betwixt Rough Castle and the Sea-loch, on condition that they every spring, in their two boats, carried the EarPs fur- niture from the Creek of Saltcoats to Finlayston, and brought it back again in the^//, when the family returned to their residence at Kerila ; and, moreover, that each of them gave him yearly half a barrel of herrings. The ancient hall of Kerila Castle was or- namented with the coats of arms of the Scottish nobility, taken, according to tradition, from the Abbey of Kilwinning, when it was partly destroyed at the Refonnation. But this parish soon passed from the Glencairn family. By a charter kindly put into our hands by R. Cuninghame, Esq. of Auchenharvie, we find that the barony of Stevenston be- came the property of Sir Thomas Boyd of Bonshall, in the year 1609. Nor did Sir Thomas long enjoy it ; for by title-deeds in the charter-chest at Grange, which we have been allowed to inspect, we find that in 1627, Sir Thomas Boyd of Bonshall, with the consent of Dame Grizzel Cuninghame, his spouse, con- * Some of the best lands in the parish still hold of the Loudon family, t This old lease is in the possession of Robert Weir, Esq. of Kirkhall. STEVENSTON. 453 veys the lands and barony of Stevenston in favour of Sir William Cuninghame of Cuninghame-Head. In less than thirty years, we find another change, for in 1656 the parish and barony of Stevenston were purchased by Sir Ro- bert Cuninghame, Physician for Scotland to Charles 11. We have already mentioned that his nephew found it necessary to dis- pose of much of his estate towards the end of that century, and th^ beginning of the next. In 1685, Kerila, the mansion-house, and the adjoining lands, were sold to John Hamilton, whose family had been the Hamiltons of Cambskeith, and afterwards of Cambs- keith and Grange, so early as 1423. Kerila Castle continued to be the mansion-house of this family till about fifty years ago, when the present House of Grange was built on a fine situation, at a little distance from the old castle of Kerila. About 1707, other portions of the parish were sold, viz. Ardeer to Rev. Patrick Warner ; and Town-Head of Saltcoats to the Earl of Eglinton ; and HuUerhirst to a family of the name of Kelso ; and all the parish, with the exception of Hayocks and Mayville, still continues to belong to the families of Haniiilton of Grange, Cuninghame of Auchenharvie, Kelso, now Hamilton of HuUer- hirst and the Retreat, and to the Earl of Eglinton. Stevenston. — The town of Stevenston Ls of considerable anti- quity, being mentioned in a charter of the Loudon family, as far ' back as the year 1240. There was a small village of some anti- quity, called Piper Heugh, of which there are still some remains in the wood at Ardeer. The inhabitants of it were chiefly trump- makers ; and there were some, it would appear, in Stevenston of the same profession, for in the Commissariat of Glasgow, we find the record of the death, ^^ in 1627, of Agnes Glasgow, spous of John Logane, trump-maker in Stevenstone.^ The trump which they manufactured at Piper- Heugh. was the Jews' Harp ; and from the name of their residence, it would appear that this little colony possessed the united accomplishments of Jubal and Tubal, being not only " artificers in brass and iron," but " handlers of the harp," and it is probable of the pipe. The voice of these ancient minstrels is silent, — the pipers and harpers, like their woodland village, have passed away ; but they seem to have bequeathed the mantle of song to their posterity, for the inhabitants of Stevenston are still distinguished for their musical propensities, as an instru- mental band, and glee club, and, what is better, the excellent sing- ing of the congregation in church, amply testify. 454 AYRSHIRE. Saltcoats. — The town of Saltcoats, more than a third of which, comprehending the harbour, is in this parish, is also a place of considerable antiquity. It must have been a place of some note between three and four hundred years ago, as in 1528 it was erected into a burgh of barony, by James V. of Scotland, though we do not find that it ever availed itself of the privileges then granted. Some great blight, however, seems to have come upon it, for, says Dr Wodrow, in the former Statistical Account, *' It is certain, from unquestionable traditionary testimony, (that of parents to their children now living,) that a century after that time, or about 130 years ago (1661,) there were only four houses in Saltcoats." We may add, that, from traditionary testimony on ^hich we can rely, we know that the first slated house in Saltcoats was built in 1703 by William Miller, who obtained a feu of the ground from Adam Campbell of Gargunnock, then a person of great influence in this. parish, though his name has almost past into oblivion. It is that house in Quay Street, which is occupied by Hugh Robertson, and it was the first house in the street. A descendant of William Miller's, still living in an adjoining house, gave us this information : — The few houses that were then in Salt- coats were low thatched cots. Saitcots (the true spelling as found in old records) is now a town of some magnitude, covering, with its numerous gardens, a considerable extent of ground, with a po- pulation of' nearly 4000, of whom 1466 are in the parish of Ste- venston. Antiquities* — In the second volume oiAnalecta Scotica^ just pub- lished, there is some correspondence betwixt the Rev. Robert Wod- row of Eastwood, the church historian, and Sir Jlobert Sibbald. On 23d November 1710, Mr Wodrow writes to Sir Robert Sibbald as follows : ^^ What comes now is a speare of a mixed metall, which was found with the Roman coin.of Faustina (which I let you see) in Cuninghame, in the parish of Stevenston, a little from the shore, about a mile from Saltcoats to the south (south-ecist) There are little blowing hills of sand there, and, by the blowing of the sand, there begsm to appear somewhat like the ruins of a building, and it's here wher this speare was gote some years since." In 1832, when some labourers were levelling a sandy field at Dubbs, they came to a causeway five feet under the surface. This pavement was six yards long and two feet broad. There was laid across one end of it, a stone of about a ton weight. At the other end of it, there was a stone coffin three feet in length and two in 3 STEVENSTON. 465 breadth, containing two urns, the one of gray and the other of black pottery. There was nothing in the urns but earth. Within the stone coffin, they found five buttons formed of jet, and as fine- ly polished as if they had been newly deposited. The buttons were of different sizes ; the largest more than an inch in diameter* They were concave on one side, and convex on the other, with knobs for attaching them. The urns were broken. The buttons are in the possession of Colonel Hamilton. Old Buildinffs. — There are few remains of ancient buildings in the parish. We have already mentioned the fine old ruin of Ke- rila. Robertson mentions, on the authority of Wood's Peerage, that some time previous to 1488, when inhabited by the Cuning- hames, it was, in consequence of a feud, sacked by their hostile neighbours, the Montgomeries of Eglinton ; and part of it was de- stroyed. The Cuninghames did not forget this neighbourly visit ; and forty years afterwards returned it in kind, by burning Eglinton Castle te the ground. Castle Hill, on the estate of Grange, indicates by its name what it has once been ; and though every vestige of a castle at that place is now gone, we learn from Pont, in his Account of Cun- inghame, that the castle was spoken of in his day. And Hawk" Hill, in the neighbourhood, we doubt not, was the place at which many a gay galliard met, with falcon on thumb, when about to en-- gage in one of the favourite recreations of these early times. Strangers, in proceeding from Stevenston to Saltcoats, observe an old castle near the shore. We blush not to tell, that it is the remains of the engine-house, in which was erected, in 1719, the second steam-engine that had ever been employed in Scotland, and close on the line of the first navigated canal in Scotland ! These mark the beginnings of that career of enterprise which has so greatly changed the face of our country, and the condition of its inhabitants; and had progress in religion, in our beloved land, kept pace with our rapid progress in other respects, we would have continued to be for a name and a praise among all the nations of the earth.* * Without going so far back as the beginning of the last century, it may be worth recording} by way of contrast 'to present times, and to show the homely state of Scot- tish society eighty or ninety years ago, that a very venerable and intelligent old lady, who died in 1(^24, io the ninety-third year of her age, and the sixty-seventh of her widowhood, told the writer of this report, that when she came to Stevenston Manse, as thu minister's wife, in 1751, there was not a carpet in the whole parish, and that she was the first who had such a luxury, — Shaving made it for herself, by sewing to- gether the lists or borders of cloth, which she got from cloth-merchants and tailors '• 456 AYRSHIRE. EentaL — The rental of tba whole parish when valued in Crom- well's time, was L. 1206 Scots, equal to L. 100, 10s. Sterling; and Wodrow, the Church Historian, speaks of it as the same at the time he wrote, about 1722. So late as 1770, the best land in the parish was let on an average at 2s. 6d, per acre. About 1780, much of the best land in the parish was let on lease for nineteen years, at 10s. per acre; and when the leases expired, what had been let at 10s. rose to L.2 per acre. For some years about 1812, several parks about Stevenston, which in 1770 had brought only 2s. 6d. per acre, were let on lease for common agricultural purposes, at L. 10 and L. 11 per acre. Though not much more than the half of the parish has been improved, no parish in the whole district of Cuninghame has increased nearly so much in value as Stevenstotf, since the whole of them were valued by Go- veniment in 1652 and 1653. By a table in Robertson's ^^ De- scription of Cuninghame," it appears from the returns in 1809, that on an average of all the parishes of the district, the rental was eighteen times more in 1809 than in 1653. The greatest rise, however, had taken place in Stevenston, where the rental was forty-five times larger, having risen from L. 100, 19s. to L. 4536, 17s. 8d. How much more has the parish risen in value, if we take into account the great additional revenue arising from the coal mines, the stone and lime quarries, the railroad, the harbour, some of which were not in existence at that early period, and others yielded almost nothing. Eminent Men. — Among the distinguished persons connected with this parish we may surely rank Robert Cuninghame, Esq. the nephew of Sir Robert Cuninghame, who, at a time when min- ing was little understood in this country, showed such science and enterprise, and furnished, though at a high price, such a store of important Information for his successors. The most remarkable person, however, connected with this pa- rish, was the late Greneral Alexander Hamilton, of the family of Grange, though America was the field in which he distinguished himself. He was excelled by none as a general, orator, financier, statesman, and lawyer. In the words of one who knew him, he in Kilmarnock. She ulso told us, that the stipend meal, to which, on the death of her husband, she was entitled, in 1768, sold at 6d. per peck ; that a leg of beef, at Martinmas, might then be purchased for 5s. ; that salmon sold at Id. a pound, of 24 oz. ; butter at 4d. per pound, of 24 oz. ; and eggs at Id. the dozen ; that a tailor received 4d. per day and his meals ; that a maid -servant's half-year fee was Ids. 4d. and a new apron ; and that coals were then shipped for Ireland at 4s. 7d. per ton of t^ i cwts. STEVENSTON. 457 was ^^ the Mentor of Washington, the framer of the present con- stitution of America, and, moreover, a man of strict honour and integrity ; equally esteemed in public and in private life." There is a third distinguished person, however, connected with this parish, who, as a sufferer in the cause of religious liberty, in the persecuting days of Charles II., ranks higher in our eyes than either of the two we have mentioned, — and that is the Rev. Pa* trick Warner, minister of Irvine. After being licensed to preach the Gospel, being recommended to the East India Company, he was sent out as an ordained minister of Fort St George on the coast of Coromandel. After remaining there for some time, he sighed to return to his native land, though to share in the suffer- ings of his persecuted countrymen ; and he returned accordingly in 1677. For two years after his return, he and the celebrated John Welsh of Ayr, son-in-law of John Knox, preached much in the fields in Carrick and in Galloway, where Mr Warner's brother was.minister of Balmaclellan. After the battle of Both well-bridge, he was in such constant danger, that he found it necessary to flee to Holland for some time. On his return, though the danger was scarcely lessened, he continued to preach in private houses as often as he had an opportunity. In 1681 he married a daughter of the very pious and eminent divine, Mr Guthrie, minister of Fenwick. When living in his mother-in-law's house in Edinbui^h, the house was violently broken open at midnight by a party of soldiers, and he was taken from bed to prison. After lying in prison for a considerable time, and after several unsuccessful attempts had been made to con- vict him, he was, on his own petition, allowed to go into voluntary banishment. He first went to England, but, being there cast into pri- son in consequence of false accusations ; as soon as he was liberated, he embarked for Rotterdam, where, with his wife and family, he continued till 1687. Having then received a call to be minister of Irvine, he returned to Scotland, and was inducted as 'minister of Irvine in 1688. From the records of Presbytery he appears to have stood very high in the opinion of his brethren ; and we find that, in 1695, the Presbytery, being advised by the Commission of the Church to elect one of their number to attend Parliament, as some affairs of the church were to come before it, the Presbytery elected Mr Warner to go to Edinburgh to join his brethren for the good of the church. After being minister of Irvine for twenty years, owing to the increasing infirmities of old age, he retired to 458 AYRSHIRE. Ardeer, in this parish, which had become his property, where he died ill 172-2, being then the oldest minister of the church. He was ah've when Wodrow, the celebrated church historian, who was married to^his daughter, wrote; and he therefore says in his work, '* His own modesty, and my near relation to him, will not permit me to say what I could, as to his personal and ministerial charac- ter, piety, learning, and usefulness. His character, indeed, is so savoury, and well-known in this church that I need say nothing of it" Heritors, — The parish is divided among nine landowners, viz. Alexander Hamilton, Esq. of Grange ; Patrick Warner, Esq. of Ardeer ; Robert Cuninghame, Esq. of Auchenharvie ; the Right Honourable the Earl of Eglinton ; Alexander Hamilton Hamilton of Hullerhirst ; Mrs Cuming of Logic ; and John, Alexander, and William Muir, Esq. of Hayocks. The greater part of these have mansion-houses in the parish, and five of them are at present resident Registers. — None of our parish registers go further back than 1700, and many portions of them have been lost The register of marriages has been regularly kept from April 1701 till May 1717; and from May 1737 till January 1746, and from January 1747 till the present time, February 1837. The register of baptisms has been regularly kept from July 1700 till November 1718; irregularly kept from 1718 till 1737 ; and regularly from 1737 till near the end of the century ; but from that time to the present, it cannot be considered as regularly kept, as the Dissenters do not record the names of their children. A register of deaths has been kept from 1747 till the present time ; but for a considerable time, those only whose friends have paid for the mortcloth have been recorded. We have always, for the fourth of a century, marked the number of deaths in the year. The average for the last seven years is high, being 77^ in a population varying from 3540 to 3681. The cholera year is included ; and in several of the other years the mortality was greater than usual. The average of four previous years, when the population was very nearly the same as during the last seven years, was d6|. The great number of children in the parish, pro- bably, raises the average of mortality above what might be expected in this healthy climate. In visiting the parish in 1832, we marked down in our book, the number of children that each couple had had. In the village of Stevenston alone there were six who had had STEVENSTON. 459 twelve children ; twelve, who had had thirteen children ; four, who had had fourteen ; and one, who had had fifteen children. IIL — Population. Number of souls in the parish in the year 1700, was below 400 When Dr \Vebster*s survey was made in 1743, it was 141*2 From survey by Rev. Dr Wodrow in 1760, 1325 Do. do. do. 1765, 1431 Do. do. do. 178:), 1884 Census by Government in 1791, 2425 Do. do. 1811, 3076 Do. do. 1821, 3556 Do. do. 1831, 3544 From survey by the present incumbent in 1836, 3681 When the Government census was taken in 1831, the number of persons under 15 years of age, was - 1371 betwixt 15 and 30 - 904 30 and 60 - 677 50 and 70 - 458 upwards of 70 - 1 34 Total, 35 14 When the survey by the present incumbent was completed in 1836, matters stood as in the following schedule : Ab. of Total No. under No. under No. belonging No. of No. of those Families. Pop. 7 years of \2 years of to the Estab. Dissent. generally age. age. Church. absenters. In the landward part of the parish. 62 300 39 64 202 76 22 Town of Stevenston. 429 1915 421 642 1284 213 418 Stevenston side of Saltcoats. 342 1466 264 416 764 492 228 833 3681 7-24 1122 2232 781 668 • When the census was taken by Government in 1831, the number of families was 810 Males above 20 years of age, .... 803 The number of resident families of independent fortune is only 5. The number of the proprietors of land of the yearly value of L, 50 is 7, only three of whom at present are resident. Alexander Hamilton, Esq. of Grange, and Robert Cuning- hame, Esq. of Auchenharvie, are alternately patrons of the parish. It adds not a little to the general comfort, that there is in the parish such abundance of excellent coal ; for though coal is high- priced at present, it is still cheap to us, compared with what it is to those at a distance. The colliers have high wages, and might all be comfortable ; and many of them are so. The colliers are an interest- ing class, and would stand higher in public opinion were it not for * Almost all in this mournful list o£ abitenttfrs profess to belong to the Established Church ; yea, in their own way, to be staunch friends of the Church ; and some of them say, when their minister expostulates with them, '* 1 am sure if we do not come to yott, we do not go to any body else-" It must be owned that they have not had fidr play. It is little more than three years since they have had a church that could contain even the half of those who were of age to attend. Matters are on a better footing now ; and we hope that, under their present advantages, many of them may be induct to give more pleasing proof of their regard for the church and their minister. 460 AYRSHIRE. a portion who wander froDfi work to work, having no character to lose, and bringing discredit on the steady and the stationary.* There are also at times ringleaders who mislead them. The weavers were for some years, from scarcity of work, and lowness of wages, in very straitened circumstances ; and the long-continued depression this season has again been very hard on them. Almost all the females in the parish are dexterous muslin flowerers, but they were thrown idle also last summer. Many of them are quite distinguished in this line, and, as the finest and best paid articles are given to such, they add greatly to the emoluments of the family when trade is good. A good flowerer can earn from Is. to Is. 6d., and 2s. per day. That the people in general can obtain a competent portion of substantial food, appears by the quantity of meat sold by the flesh- ers in the town of St^evenston. By a return made to us, we find that about 2864 stones of flesh meat are sold bv them in the course of the year, and this is not all that is used in Stevenston and the neighbourhood, for much meat in addition to this is brought from Saltcoats ; and of the 500 dozen rabbits killed in the parish an- nually, the people of Stevenston have their share. IV. — Industry. Much that belongs to this department has already come under our notice in treating of the colliery and the quarries. But there are other branches of industry which we shall as briefly as ])Ossible mention. The Salt and Magnesia Works. — The marine salt-works at Salt- coats, like all others on the west coasts have been materially in- jured by the introduction of English rock-salt from Liverpool, since the excise duties on salt have been repealed. Formerly, the English salt paid a higher duty than the Scotch, which prevented its importation ; but as it is produced at less expense, it is now sold cheaper. There only remain two salt-pans in operation, where there used to be seven ; and even these could not be em- ployed, if it were not that the (X)untry people prefer marine salt for their dairy, and give a higher price for it than for rock-salt. The salt-works manufacture at the rate of 200 tons of salt per annum, price L. 2, 10s. per ton; all consumed within about fif- teen miles of the place. From the bittern or mother-water of the salt-pans, and from other materials derived from the sea water, there is a considerable * Notwitlistanding their blackamoor work, the colliers arc cleanly in their babilS) and undergo a complete ablution every day as soon as they return home. STEVENSTON. 461 manufacture of magnesia carried on by Mr Burns at Saltcoats, em- ploying a number of hands in its various manipulations. The pro- duce is mostly sent to London and New York, in wholesale, to large drug-houses. This was the first established manufitcture of the kind in Scotland. The wages given at the salt and magnesia works are about 12s. per week. Rope^Yard. — This was in a flourishing state when the former Statistical Report was written. It fell greatly off; but it is now beginning to revive, giving employment to from six to eight hands. The introduction of patent machinery has been of great service. Ship-Building^ when the former report was written, was in a most prosperous state in Saltcoats. About a year ago, there was great appearance of its becoming prosperous again ; and many car- penters were employed, but it is again at a stand. TVade and Shipping of Saltcoats. — In these also, we must record a great felling off. It is not easy to separate the trade of this harbour from that of Ardrossan. We may, in general, however, state, that there are aboiit thirty vessels of from 20 to 250 tons re- gister, that trade from the port of Saltcoats, amounting to nearly 3000 tons, and employing about 180 men. We find that in 1833, the value of exports to foreign parts between the ports amounted to about L. 600. The chief exportations, however, are to Ireland. In 1833^ the value of earthenware exported was L. 325; of leather, L. 30 ; of herrings, L. 2423 ; of saddlery, L. 14 ; woollen manu- factures, L. 60 ; of freestone, L. 599 ; of coal, L. 7000. The trade has been gradually increasing since that time; and in par- ticular the exportation of freestone, and still ipore of coal, has great- ly increased ; and the exportation of coal to foreign ports has be- come considerable. Though there is no account kept of them, there are a number of wherries which come from the Highlands with herrings, &c. and carry away coals to a very considerable ex- tent every week. The imports are chiefly from Ireland. Betwixt both harbours in 1833, the value of oats imported was L. 5293; of butter, L. 630 ; of limestone, L. 186; of beef and bacon, L. 76. In all, during that year, the imports from Ireland in value L. 6366 ; and the ex- ports to Ireland L. 10,202. There is a considerable importation of timber, but that seems chiefly tO' have come to Ardrossan. To save us from referring to it again, we may here briefly men- tion, that L. 1000 could be laid out to admirable advantage at Saltcoats, in deepening the harbour, and in extending the pier to 462 AYRSHIRE. the rock which is called the Little Nebbock. This would afford great protection, and would rendef the harbour an excellent one. It is the property of Robert Cuninghame, Esq. of Auchenharvie ; and we hope that the work which his enterprising ancestor, 150 years ago, began, and which his public-spirited father considera- bly improved, he will have the honour ere long of bringing to a state of comparative perfection ; at once benefiting himself, and render- ing an important service to the community. Fisheries. — There is one boat employed in Saltcoats in supply- ing the town and neighbourhood with white fish. Stake-nets for salmon have been employed for some seasons, on the shore from Saltcoats to Irvine Bar ; but being much exposed, the nets suffer so much from the storm, that the fishery cannot be carried on with great advantage. But the fishery was most successfully carried on the two last seasons, by means of bag-nets at the point of the quay. From six to eight vessels of from twenty to eighty tons, and em- ploying about fifty hands, go yearly from Saltcoats to the herring- fishery in the North Highlands. As they generally buy the fish from those who have caught them, fewer hands are required. Be- sides these larger vessels, a considerable number of wherries go from Saltcoats to the herring fishery in Loch Fyne, the Sound of Kil- brandon, &c. At times, the herrings visit our own neighbour- hood ; and it is a beautiful sight to see a large fleet of wherries as- sembled in our fine bay. The herring-fishery has fallen greatly off since the bounty was withheld. Saltcoats Brewery. — This was established about fifty-six years ago, and it continues to furnish an abundant supply of ale, and porter, and small beer. Besides carrying on the brewery, Mr Watt is engaged to a considerable extent as a grain dealer. Stevenston Grain^MilL — This is an excellent mill, and of great antiquity, as we find from the old charters we have had occasion to peruse. Agriculture, — When the former Statistical Report was written in 1791, the uncultivated part of the parish was stated as amounting to 1700 acres. Though no great effort has been made, cultiva- tion, we are glad to find, has been creeping on with stealthy step. Much that was then called moor on Sea- Bank grounds, has been converted into beautiful parks ; and much that had the same wild name of moor on Ardeer estate is now adding richly to the rental ; so that we may at present state the uncultivated land, in round num* bers, as amounting to 1200 acres. This, however, is a frightful STEVENSTON. 463 number in so small a parish ; and it tells us that the sand-bills will not be subdued for more than a century to come, unless prompter measures are adopted. The number of Scotch acres in the parish is 3181. The ren- tal of the parish, as nearly as we can ascertain it, (and the greater part of our information has been furnished by the proprietors,) is L. 3836. Some of the land lets remarkably high. Fields of a few acres near Stevenston were this season, for one crop, let at L. 14, and even L, 14, I4s. per acre. They would not let so high, however, on lease, and allowance is made for that in mak- ing up the rental. Deducting the 1200 barren acres and their rent, and deducting about 154 acres in gardens, and plantations, and roads, the rest of the parish lets on an average at L. 2 per acre. The rental in 1791 was L. 1170; and the average rent 13s. per acre. Raw Produce. — The farmers and others have kindly given us the information we asked, to aid us in making the following state- ment of the yearly amount of raw produce of the parish. Hay, pasture, strav, &c. . . . L. 2250 Wheat, . . . •. , 137«S Potatoes, Oats, Beans, Turnips, Barley, 1493 1295 395 ]50 60 Carrots, .... . 45 Rye, ..... .26 Lint, cabbages, &c., .... 80 Gardens, thinning of plantation^ &&, . . 265 Pigs, ........ 190 Rabbits yearly about 500 dozen, greatly fiillen in yalue of late, 200 Coal, . . . . ' . . 18000 Quarries, • * . . . . . 2250 Yearly value, L.^,022 There are many other articles of raw produce, the value of which we have not been able to discover. The number of farms in the parish is about 23. They are not of great size, being from twenty to rather upwards of a hun- dred acres. The more general size is from sixty to eighty acres. The rents, in proportion to the farms, vary from L.40 to rather above L.200. The farmers are steady and industrious, but mak- ing, we believe, at present very small profits. The farm-houses are in general good. Hawthorn hedges, in almost all cases, form the inclosures. Stone-dikes give a hard and barren aspect to tlie 464 AYRSHIRE. landscape. They are best the day they are built, and from that moment are subject to the law of decay. The rotation on the richer lands is sometimes the three-shift, but more generally the four-shift A large proportion, however, of each farm is in grass, and there are some beautiful dairies in the parish. There is less cheese made here than formerly, as it is in general thought more profitable to dispose of the dairy produce in milk and butter. A few calves are reared each year, and the rest sent to market There is still room for considerable improvement in agricultural matters in this parish. Little encouragement has yet been given for furrow-draining. A beginning, however, has been made, and we doubt not that it will spread over the whole parish, and add greatly to the value of property. The farms are let on lease of from twelve to nineteen years. Some are let from year to year. This may do for small patches around towns and villages ; but for farms, it is a bad and comfortless system. Very considerable benefit is derived by the farmers from the sea-wrack^ which in stormy weather is cast ashore, and diligently carted away by them for manure. V. — Parochial Economy. There is both in Saltcoats and Stevenston a tolerably good market If any day can be called the market-day, unfortunately, it is the Saturday. It is much to be regretted that this is the pay day in the public works, as those who are given to intemperate habits are thus more powerfully tempted to disqualify themselves for the duties of the approaching Sabbath, by making the Satur- day evening a night of riot and bustle, instead of calm domestic enjoyment. Pogt'^jffice.'^TheTe is a daily post from Saltcoats and from Stevenston. Coaches^ SfC, — A coach leaves Saltcoats for Glasgow every law- ful morning at 7 6'clock, and returns in the evening about 9 o'clock. A coach leaves Saltcoats for Kilmarnock every lawful morning at 8 o'clock, and returns to Saltcoats about 6 o'clock. In summer, a coach starts from Glasgow at 6 o'clock in the morning, and another coach from Kilmarnock at 8 o'clock in the morning, to convey passengers to Ardrossan in time for the steamer for Arran ; and when the steamer returns in the afternoon, they are ready to start with passengers for Glasgow and Kilmarnock. STEVENSTON. 4G5 The Fans on the Ardrossan and Johnstone railroad pass, like the coaches, through this parish. Along this railroad, pass also all the coal and stone, &c. to be shipped at Ardrossan and Salt- coats harbours, amounting last year to about 60,000 tons. Ecclesiastical State. — In entering on the ecclesiastical depart- ment of this Report, wc shall, as far as the gnawing tooth of time has left us materials, give a list of the ministers of this parish. The first whose name we have been able to discover is Mr Stephen Wilkynsoune^ curate of Steynstoune in 1547. We doubt not that he was a Roman Catholic Our great Scottish Reformer Knox had begun to preach ; but having been among those in the Castle of St Andrews, who, after a brave and vigorous resistance, had been under the necessity of capitulating on honourable terms, he had been car- ried to France, and in violation of the terms of capitulation, was at this time a chained captive aboard one of the French galleys.* The following extract from the records of the Commissary Court of Glas- gow gives us the name of this curate as witness to a will ; and in- forms us also, that our old church was dedicated to St Monach or Monk. Archibald Weyr, whose will is dated 7th October 1547,, thus stipulates, " Do et lego, &c. * • ♦ * corpusque meum sepeliendum Ecclesid Sancti Monachi de Steynstoune." " Tes- tis Dominus Stephanus Wilkynsoune, Curatus de Steynstoune." Mr James Walcar (Walker) is the next we meet His name is found in the '^ Register of Ministers, as vicar and minister of Stivenstoune in 1567/' His stipend is L. 40 Scots, or L. 3, 6s. 8d. Sterling, with " the thryd of his vicarage," but the amount of this is not mentioned. In the Register of Ministers we find " Mr Archibald Crawfuird in Mr Walcar's rowme sen Beltym 1569 ; and 50 merkis mairsen the same tyme/' And we find him again mentioned as minister of Stevinstoun in 1576, when his stipend was L. 100 Scots, or L. 8, 6s. 8d. Sterling, and probably with " the thryd of his vica- rage," which appears to have been a general grant about that time. The fourth we have fallen in with is ** Maister Alexander Camp^ hell^ Personne, Minister and Viccar of the Paroche Kirk and Pa- rocbine of Stinstoune" in 1606; We find his signature to a lease of the teinds of the parish, dated 1606. The original lease is in the charter-chest at Sea- Bank. Better had it been for this " Per- sonnels" memory, if this abiding litera scripta had been buried in the tomb of the Capulets. This lease shows that Mr Campbell • M*Cric*s Life of Knox. AYR. Gg 466 AYRSHIRE. took a grassum^ and let the teinds of the whole parish to Hew Campbell of Hullerhirst, and Jeane Cuninghame, his spouse, for 12 merks yearly, (or 13s. 4d.) and that during their joint lives, and for nineteen years after the death of the ^' langest liver of the twa." Hew Campbell was probably a kinsman, and he is de- nominated ^' kyndlie tacksman of the teinds, and teind sheaves of the lands." This was an iniquitous transaction ; for though the incumbent ^' halds himself weill payit and satisfeit," what was to become of his successor in office for nineteen years after the death of the " langest liver of the twa^* with only 13s. 4d. in lieu of the whole teinds ? It appears that tacks of this kind were often grant- ed in these days ; but being very prejudicial to the church, an act was passed in 1617, prohibiting prelates from granting tacks be- yond nineteen years ; and inferior beneficed persons from granting them for longer than their own lives and five years thereafter, un- less the tacks were registered in a particular register. And still farther, by Act 1621, cap. 15, all tacks by inferior beneficiaries, which had not the consent of the patron, were declared null ; so that *^ the kyndlie tacksman" would be relieved from collecting " the teind and teind sheaves," sooner than he expected. * The next whose name we have been able to discover is Mr John Bell. It appears from the following extract from Wodrow's ChurciT History, that he lived till 1671. " June 22d, 1671, John Bell, minister at Ardrossan, being ^' (by act of a tyrannical council,) '^ confined to his parish, his father living within a mile of him falls sick, and he must apply to the council to visit his dying father.*^ They allowed him, indeed, but with ^* a proviso that he go to no other house without his parish, coming and going."-}* From the death of Mr Bell, there is reason to think, that, owing to the evils of tyranny and persecution, there was no minister in Stevenston till 1689, when persecution and trouble arising in Ire- land, a number of the Presbyterian ministers from Ulster took re- fuge in this country, and there was a recommendation from the Synod of Glasgow and Ayr, to employ them in the vacant parish- es. They seem to have been good and able men. One of them, Mr W. Legat, had calls from Stevenston, and Fenwick, and Pais- ley, and by the advice of the presbytery, he accepted of the call * Though we have not been able to discover when Stevenston was made a separate parish, it is spoken of in this tack as " ane of the kirks anextlo the Abbacie ofKUtelu- ing ofauid, wMlk now U distolved in 9evtral pcrtonagea/* f We know that Mr Bell was minister of the parish of Stevenston in 1641, from J. B. M. 1641 being engraven on the oaken back of the manse seat, in the old church, and which has been transferred to the new church. STEVENSTON. 467 to Paisley. The people of Stevenston then fixed on another of them, Mr jRobert Stirling^ who, at tlie request of the presbytery, agreed to exercise his ministry for some time among them ; and he remained at Stevenston, till times having become more peace- ful in Ireland, and having a call to return to his old charge, he left this parish, and returned to his own country. Though many efforts were made, and though in particular Mr Robert Murdoch was called and urged to become their minister, they seem to have been unsuccessful till 1700. In 1700, Mr William Reid was ordained minister of Stevens- ton, and continued faithfully to discharge his duty till 1742. He left many volumes of MS. sermons behind him, which bear evidence to the soundness of his doctrine, and the interest which he took in the spiritual welfare of his flock. He was the great grandfather of the present R. Cunninghame, Esq. of Auchenharvie. In the end of the year 1744, Mr Robert Finlay, afterwards the Rev. Dr R. Finlay, was ordained minister of this parish, and left it in March 1745, being only half a year here, and drawing no stipend. He went to Galston, and from that to the Ram's- Horn Kirk in Glasgow, (St David's,) and was afterwards appointed Professor of Divinity in the University of Glasgow. He was a person of very great learning ; and of the greatest worth and integrity of character ; and well entitled to a place among the distinguished persons connected with this parish. He lived to a great age, and sixty-seven years after he had left this parish, the present incumbent preached before him in Glasgow, and was con- gratulated by him as his successor. In ]746, Mr Thomas Mac Kindlay was ordained minister of the parish, and died in 1758, leaving with the charge of two children, a widow, who continued to be an ornament of the parish till 1824, when she died in her Odd year. In 1769, Mr James Wodrow, afterwards the Rev. Dr James Wodrow, was ordained minister of the parish. He was son of Wodrow, the celebrated Church Historian, and grandson of Pro- fessor Wodrow. He was a person of great respectability and up- rightness of character, and of high attainments ; and was thought to excel in lecturing. He died at an advanced age in Decem- ber 1810. David Landsborough, the present minister of the parish, a li- centiate of the Presbytery of Edinburgh, was ordained 26th Sep- tember 1811. 468 AYRSHIRE. Church, — When this Statistical Report was first called for, the parish church was old. It is thought that the place round the pul- pit formed part of the church which was in existence in 1547, dedicated to St Monoch or St Monk. Happy are we that St Monk's Kirk has been laid low in the dust ; for though externally it was rather picturesque, internally it was most uncomfortable ; and be- ing seated for 700, when the population was 3500, it was working the moral ruin of the parish, for hundreds grew up in habits of carelessness, which many of them, we fear, will carry to the grave. A most excellent church has now been built by the heritors, on the old delightful site. It is a very handsome and substantial edi- fice, with a steeple about 120 feet high, furnished with a good clock, and a fine-toned bell from London, 34 inches in diameter. Internally, the church is very convenient and comfortable, with a considerable degree of simple elegance. It has a stove for heat- ing it in winter. It is seated for about 1200, and is very favourably constructed both for the speaker and the hearers. Altogether, it is one of the best models to be met with for a country church. It is placed on a very commanding situation, 40 feet above the level of the village, and 63 feet above the level of the sea. The heritors have given up 136 sittings to the management of the session, to be assigned gratuitously to the poor, or, if not all required, to be let on easy terms in aid of the poor's funds. And easy, indeed, are the terms on which the sittings are let throughout the church, as the highest are only about 2s. ^d., and the greatest proportion of them only 6d. This is as it ought to be ; but it is ow- ing to 500 additional sittings being added at once by the new church. Manser Sfc, — The manse was built in 1787. Part of thj old manse, built about 100 years ago, was allowed to stand, and forms the wing on the east. The manse was repaired in 1811, and a porch added in 1831, which, along with what has been done at the expense of the present incumbent, renders it a pretty comfortable house. The offices are thatched, and mean-looking. The glebe, including the garden, and site of the house, is 5 acres 18 falls in extent It is worth about L. 25 per annum. It would be worth more, had not part of it been let with consent of the he- ritors, about a hundred years ago, at a low rate, and on a very long lease, which, though not good in law, has been allowed to stand. The garden is of a superior order for a parsonage, well-walled, partly at the minister's expense ; stocked with tolerably produc- STEVENSTON. 469 tive fruit trees, and with a large assortment of rare and beautiful, but very unproductive flowers and plants.* The stipend is 16 chalders, half oatmeal and half barley, with L. 10 for communion elements; and L.4, 3s. 4d., the interest of mortified money, in the hands of one of the heritors; and these sums being included, it has averaged these two years, since it was augmented, L. 229, 7s. 4d,f The stipend for the last three years, including money for communion elements, and L. 4, 3s. 4d., in- terest of mortified money, averaged L. 257, 7s. lOd. The number of communicants connected with the Establish- ment in the parish, is 980. The sacrament of the Lord's sup- per is dispensed twice in the season. The number who commu- nicate at one time is about 520. About 30 more living in Salt* coats attend, and communicate in the^parish church of Ardrossan, which is much nearer to them. In the Stevenston portion of Saltcoats, there is a United Seces- sion, and also a Relief Meeting-house. The ministers who of- ficiate in them are paid by public collections, and by the seat rents. The United Secession meeting-house is seated for 556. The Rev. Mr Ellis has informed us, that, besides occasional pre- sents of considerable value, he has never received less than L. 130 of stipend, and four and sometimes five guineas, (exclusive of com- munion elements,) for defraying additional expenses incurred on these occasions. The Relief Meeting-house is seated for 650. The Rev. Mr Giffen informs us, that besides sacramental and travelling ex-» peBses, and his pulpit supplied in his absence at the expense of the congregation, (as Mr Ellis also has,) the stipend promised is * The glebe being under the' legal size, a field, called the " Tinklers* Acre^ was, with vacant stipend, purchased nearly eighty years ago, as an addition to it ; and this now forms the garden ; and what is called " the low- field** behind it. The adjoining field of the glebe is called the Bell Acre ; but why so, we leave future antiquarians to dis. cover. A bell-man, who was in office more than a quarter of a century ago, firmly believed thai as it was called the Bell acre, it was intended that it should be a per- quisite of the Bell man's •f* About 1696, the stipend being small, and preachers scarce after a long season of persecution, the inhabitants of Stevenston could not for some years get a minister. As an yiducement to a minister to settle among them, we find the elders of the pa- rish stating to the Presbytery, that if the heritors who had resolved to employ one year*s vacant stipend in repairing the manse, and the bridge, (for the old bridge was old, it would appear, even then,) would condescend to mortify the said year's stipend for a supplement, the tenants would repair the said manse and bridge at their own charges. Two ministers having been appointed to speak to Gargun nock and the Lady Grange, if they would C3ndescend thereto, they gave in their report, that they were willing to condescend thereto with a slight reservation. Notwithstanding, they could not get a minister till 1700, when Mr William Reid was ordained. 470 AYRSHIRE. L. 100, to which some handsome additional present is every year added. All the places of worship in the parish are pretty well attended. The Dissenters draw their congregations from more than one pa- rish. When the last survey was made in 1836, the number of Dissenters in this parish was as follows : Rdief, . 440 Baptists, 31 Cameronians, 7 United Secession, 227 Roman Catholics, 17 Methodist, 1 Original Seceders, 51 Episcopalians. Total, . 781 Education. — There are five schools in the parish ; one paro- chial school ; one supported by subscription ; and three supported by the wages. During the last six months, 163 have attended the parochial school. At the examination in December 1836, 122 were present. Of the above numbers, all were learning English; 41 writing; 17 arithmetic; 8 English grammar; 6 Latin; 4 ma- thematics. The salary of the parochial teacher is the maximum, . . L. 34 4 4^ The whole legal allowance for ground, though there is a small garden, 2 2 9^ Interest of mortified money, . , 17 4^ School wages, about . . . £6 L.93 4 6 The school-room is greatly too small, and in every respect bad, and we would reprobate it in the strongest terms, were it not that we believe the heritors are quite disposed to build one better suit- ed to the parish. There is another good private school in Stevenston. During the last six months 130 have attended it The school fees are the same as in the parochial school ; and may amount, through- out the year, to about L. 4& About thirty attend evening classes. . The free school in Saltcoats is called the Ladies' School, be- cause superintended and managed by a committee of ladies. It is for both parishes. The usual number who attend is about 30. They are all females, and are taught English, and knitting, and sewing. In two other private schools there are only 23 more at school in our side of the town, out of a population of 1466. Matters, however, are not just so bad as they look, for fully as many more from this parish are attending schools in the Ardrossan side of Saltcoats. Yet matters are far from being in so good a state as we would wish ; and we shall not rest satisfied till we have an en- dowed school, placed in some convenient situation in our side of the town of Saltcoats. * We have two Sabbath evening schools in Stevenston, attended STEVENSTON. 471 by about 230 scholars ; and two other schools iii this parish in Saltcoats, attended by above 100 scholars. Literature* — There is a good subscription library, of some stand- ing, in Saltcoats ; and also a public reading-room for both parishes. There is a good little subscription library in Stevenston : and a Sabbath school library, which has been found to be highly bene- ficial to the place. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The number of poor on the roll is 114; of these, 63 receive only occasional aid at the new- year, on sacramental occasions, and when known to be in difficul- ties. The remaining 5 1 are weekly pensioners, and receive from 6d. to 2s. 6d. a week ; and many of them, in addition to their weekly pension, have their house rent paid, or receive some aid in paying it The whole disbursements by the session last year, in- cluding the fees of treasurer, session-clerk, &c., amounted to L. 223* 6s. 5d. To meet this, we had L. 96, 15s. 2d., collected at the church ; L. 5, a donation by a native of the parish on a visit from abroad; L. 12, Is. from proclamation and mortcloth dues; L. I, 4s« 3d. from seat rents in church ; and L. 97, Is. 8d. as a voluntary contribution by the heritors. In point of collections for the poor as well as in many other respects, we are already expe- riencing the advantage of having a good church. During the last four years, 1828, 1829, 1830, 1831, the average of the annual cx>llections in the old church was L.69, 12s. 7^d. : during the four years since the church was rebuilt, the average of the collections for the poor throughout the year has been L. 89, lOs. 4Jd. And there is the prospect of increase, as the last year was considerably above the average, being L. 96, 15s. 2d. The collections during the laiit year (1836) for religious purposes, such as the General Assembly's Schemes, Sabbath schools, &c amounted to L. 49, 10s. lOd., which is more than we ever had for these purposes be- fore. There is so much of the spirit of independence remaining, that there are few applications to the session till there is great need.* The Ardrossan and Stevenston Parochial Society, — This is sup- ported by quarterly subscriptions ; and the funds are chiefly em- • The collections for the poor during the first year of the Kev Mr Reid's minis- try, from 1700 till 1701, including collections «t an occasional Thursday lecture amounted to L. 72, 14s. Scots, or L. 6, la. 2d. Sterling, which was more in proportion to the wealth and population of the parish than we collect now ; the population heinir about 378, and the rental about L. ] 00 Sterling. The only extra collection that year was at New-yearVday, amounting to L.2, 10s. 2d. Scots, for ^' the captives at Algirs.'* The chief citra parochial disbursement was L. 4 Scots money, being a ycar*s salary to the presbytery bursar. In a subsequent year, the same sum is given to the Pres> bytery Highland bursar.— AVwiwi Records, 472 AYRSHIRE. ployed in purchasing Bibles and tracts for distribution, and in pay- ing the school-wages of children whose parents are not paupers, but in straitened circumstances. The average expenditure of the last four years, in both parishes, has been L. 23, 6s. 8d., the half of which for this parish is L. 11, 13s. 4d. It has gone steadily on in doing good by aiding the Assembly's Schools, and missionary societies ; and by providing Bibles for the poor at home. The Saltcoats (Stevenston) Female Benevolent Society is a clothing society, supported by weekly subscriptions ; and their expenditure duringlast year was L.22. Saltcoats ( Stevenston) Benevolent So- ciety is supported by weekly subscriptions, and the expenditure last year to the indigent was L. 24, Is. Total L. 57, 14s. 4d. Friendly Societies. — These are supported by the weekly subscrip- tions of the members, who, according to their regulations, are to re- ceive from their funds in time of sickness. 1. The Benevolent Female Society last year's expenditure was, L.35 14 9 2. The Permanent Friendly Society do. do, . 23 12 a The Colliers' Society, do. do. . 75 5 4. The Free Masons Society, do. do. , 64 1 1 9 6. The Weavers* Society, do. do. . 33 17 1 6. The Benevolent Penny Society, do do. . 21 2 7 7. The Saltcoats Sailors* Friendly Society, yearly expenditure* 3 7 Tliey have not needed to distribute more, and have a good stock in the bank. L.257 10 2 Fairs, — There is a fair in Stel^enston held on theSOth October, which is St Monoch's, or in English St Monk's day, or more ele- gantly as with us, euphonice causd^ Sam-Maneuke's day. As far as I know, this fair is for nothing but drinking and revelry. There is a procession during the day, and a ball in the evening ; and per- haps neither procession nor ball would do much harm, were it not for the never-failing strong drink, which induces many to spend the greater part of the week of the fair in idleness and dissipation, and is an inlet to all manner of wickedness. A fair is held at Saltcoats on the last Thursday of May. About fifty years ago. Quay Street, on the fair day, had a long line of merchant's stands on each side ; and the arrival of the fleet of Arran boats on the evening before the fair, was watched with de- light by the youngsters. Now, it is the day on which a number of the farm-servants are engaged for the ensuing half year, espe- cially such of them as come from the Highlands. It is likewise a cattle market, particularly for little Highland cows ; and also for pigs and lambs, &c. Innsy Sfc. — There are in the parish no less than thirty-three inns a STEVENSTON. 473 and public-houses, and whisky shops. A few inns are needed for the accommodation of travellers, and for the transaction of busi- ness ; but the rest serve as so many decoys and traps to lure and destroy the thoughtless in their neighbourhood. The sale of spirits in grocer's shops has had a most pernicious influence, especially on the female part of the community, who, when there is no dan- ger of detection, are tempted to add a dram to the other commo- dities they purchase. But the most pernicious practice is that of several families clubbing, that they may drink together cheaply in one of their own houses ; for in this way husbands, and wives, and children, all share in the debauch, and drunken habits are per- petuated from generation to generation. We are grieved and ashamed to mention the sum annually ex- pended in this parish for ardent spirits. We have learned from the excise officer of the district, the quantity sold in it last year ; and, without taking into account what is bought at a distance for the use of private families, and exclusive also of all that is expend- ed for wine, and ale, and porter and beer ; and calculating at a rate greatly below the retail price, the quantity of ardent spirits sold in the parish, — it amounts to the enormous sum of L. 4125 1 1 1 This is truly lamentable. Miscellaneous Observations. There is a great difference, in many things, betwixt the state of the parish now, and its state when the former Statistical Report was written in 1791. Land is much higher rented than it was then, notwithstanding the great depreciation since the end of the French war. In 1791, the rental of the parish was L. 1170. Now it is L. 3836. This is not large for a whole parish ; but when we reflect that it con- tains only 3182 acres, and that about 1200 of these are sandhills, interspersed with patches of pasture yielding on an average only 2s. 8d. per acre, it will appear, that what is cultivated of the pa- rish is one of the richest spots in the whole country. Facilities of communication have greatly increased. A great change has also taken place in trade ; the cotton trade, which now gives employment to so many families, being then only in its in- fancy. On the other hand, the trade of the harbour and ship-building, and the rope-work, and the salt-works are in a less flourishing state than they were then ; and Saltcoats, though it has increased in 474 ayrshirf:, size, has not increased in wealth ; and is not now as it was then, '^ the most fashionable sea-bathing place on the west coast." Though agriculture has made progress, the system of husbandry seems still capable of improvement ; and one improvement would be, a more extended system of furrow-draining over all the heavy grounds in the upi)er part of the parish. This, by ameliorating the soil and the climate, would render the crops earlier and more abun- dant ; and the pastures more kindly and nutritive. Another evi- dent improvement would be, determined and persevering hostility against the myriads of docks, and ragweeds, and nettles, and thistles which hold so prominent a place in many of our fields, wasting their strength, and rendering them unsightly. But the most magnificent improvement of which this parish is sus- ceptible is the fertilization of about 1200 acres of sandhills. That, in a few years, this barren range might be rendered not only beau- tiful, but of great value, is not an opinion of yesterday ; but was held forty-six years ago by the very intelligent and respectable writer of the last Statistical Report. There are two ways of im- proving this savage tract : the one by converting it into a forest, the other by bringing it into pasture, and eventually, perhaps, into arable ground ; for there is proof, in the parish, that it is capable of bearing trees, or of becoming rich pasture, and even of yielding good crops. The beautiful fields in the neighbourhood of Sea- Bank, and the glebe, were originally covered with sand. • November 1837. PARISH OF OLD CUMNOCK. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. NINIAN BANNATYNE, A. M. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. ^fl»w«.— The name Cumnock seems to be compounded of the Celtic words com, a bosom, and conoc^ a hill ; thus signifying the bosom of the hill ; which is strikingly descriptive of the locality, in which the town and church of Cumnock stand. It is now com- monly called Old Cumnock, to distinguish it from the parish of New Cumnock, which was disjoined from it upwards of a century ago. Boundaries^ Extent. — The parish is in the middle district of Ayrshire, called Kyle, and is bounded on the west by Ochiltree ; on the north and east by Auchinleck ; and on the south by New Cumnock. It is of an oblong figure ; its length from east to west being 10 miles, and its average breadth from north to south 2 miles. Topographical Appearances^ Soil^ and Climate. — The parish is partly flat and partly hilly, so as to present to the eye a very pleasing undulating surface, finely varied and adorned by nume- rous belts of wood,' intersecting it in all directions, and giving a peculiarly rich and cultivated appearance to the entire landscape. The land is lowest on the north side of the parish, and rises gra- dually towards the west and south sides. There are no hills of any note in the parish ; the highest is called Knockdon, and stands on the south-west boundary. There are several very fine patches of holm land, lying along the banks of the river Lugar, some of which are of a light sandy soil, and others of a fine deep loam ; — on which' wheat of excellent quality is raised. The soil, for the most part, is clayey, having a subsoil of strong till ; and on the higher lands, it is mossy. The parish stands at an elevation of se- veral hundred feet above the level of the sea, from .which it is six- teen miles distant; while, at the same time, it may be said to be embosomed among the higher lands of the surrounding parishes. 476 AYRSHIRE. The climate has its full share of the moisture of the western coast; though, perhaps, not so wet on the whole as that of some parishes in the vicinity. It is, however, far from being unhealthy, which is proved by the very rare occurrence of epidemics, and likewise by the number of aged persons in the parish. Hydrography. — The water of Lugar rises on the east side of the parish, and is formed by the junction of the Glenmore and Bella waters, about two miles above the town of Cumnock. It forms the boundary between Cumnock and Auchinleck, passing the town of Cumnock on the north side, and taking a westerly di- rection until it flows into the Ayr water at Barskimming : thus running a course of about ten miles. The scenery on the banks of the Lugar is of the most romantic and picturesque description ; sometimes bold projecting naked crags overhang its course — at other places, is seen a perpendicular wall of rock, more than a hun- dred feet in height, rising out of the water, — while again, you are called to admire the deep ravines through which it flows, wooded on both sides from top to bottom ; the trees now waving their foliage in the pure stream below, and again intertwining their branches on 'the heights above. A little above the town, it almost forms a circle, by winding its course nearly round a small hill, called the Moat, which is finely wooded from the top to the bottom on all sides. The high and finely wooded banks, together with the beautiful meanderings of the stream, as seen from this peninsular hill, present an extremely picturesque appearance. There is also another rivulet called the Glasnock water, that intersects the town of Cumnock, and flows into the Lugar, at the lower end of the town. This stream has its source in a lake that lies on the south boundary of the parish. It is worthy of notice, that this lake flows out at both ends. At its southern extremity, it sends its waters into two other small lakes in New Cumnock parish, that flows into the river Nith ; and at its northern extremity, it forms the Glas- nock water, which, as we have already said, empties itself into the Lugar at Cumnock. From these facts, it is evident that this lake stands on the summit level between Avrshire and Dumfries-shire : while it also forms an inland link of communication between the friths of Clyde and Solway. And, indeed, from the presence of marine deposits, it seems not absurd to hazard a conjecture, that an arm of the sea, at some remote period, may have occupied the line of water from the Clyde at Ayr to the mouth of the Nith in Solway Frith. For, even as matters at present stand, we can sup- OLD CUMNOCK. 4 77 pose a trout to enter the Ayr water at the town of Ayr, pass from it into the Lugarat Barskimming, then again into the Glasnock at Cumnock, repose itself for a while, after its upward journey in the lake above-mentioned, and afterwards pursue its easy way down the course of the Nith, until it reaches the Solway. The late Earl of Dumfries at one time proposed making a cut from the river Nith in New Cumnock to the lake above mention- ed, in order to have a large supply of water for a factory that he intended to erect on the Glasnock water, and thus to make the Nith send part of its waters into the Clyde, instead of the Solway ;- but it was never attempted to be executed. The cuts, however, I am told, could easily be made, and at very little expense ; but how the people of Dumfrie&-snire would relish this new order of things, in regard to the dird'ction of their majestic river, I cannot say, — I am afraid they would forbid the bans between the Nith and the Clyde, Mineralogy. — The parish abounds in limestone, coal, and free* stone ; and it is also conjectured that ironstone may be found were it sought for. The limestone is of the first quality as a cement, making the best possible binding lime. It is known by the name of Benston lime, and hardens under water into the consistence of stone. Hence, it is highly valuable, and, consequently, much used in the erection of bridges and other buildings that stand under water. It is carried, I believe, to a considerable distance for subaqueous buildings. The direction of the dip is to the south-west. The cover consists of 28 feet of clay and 8 feet of bastard limestone. The strata of limestone are about 7 feet in thickness. The workmen earn about 2s. a day ; and the lime is sold at the quarry for 6d. per boll, Winchester measure. A freestone of a very superior kind is found on the banks of the Lugar of a light blue colour, and which takes a very fine polish in the hands of the mason. There is also a beautiful white free* stone, which is held in high repute, as making the very best mill- stones for grinding barley. It has been sent, I am told, even to America for this purpose. The whole parish may be said to rest on coal ; though, in many places, the seams are troubled and unworkable. It is wrought, at present, on the high lands towards the south-west side of the parish. Two beds of trap or whinstone intervene in sinking for the coal ; the one is IIJ feet thick, and the other 4^ feet ; the former is 8, and the latter 16 fathoms from the surface. There is a seam 478 AYRSHIRE. of coal, 2^ feet thick, immediately under the lower bed of whin- stone. The direction of the dip is to the north-west, and the average thickness of the seam is about 4 feet. The quality of the coal is good, though sometimes a little sulphurous. A man will put out two tons of coal in the day, and will earn from 3s. to 4s. The lordship is a sixth of the gross out^put ; and a fifth part of the coal is left for supports. There are few cross dikes. Some years ago, in sinking for coal, near the banks of the Lugar, a bed of marine shells was found, 14 fathoms from the surface, sunk in strong blue blaize. The shells were of the size of muscles, and were of a bluish-gray colour. A petrified shrub was also found in a bed of freestone, about 26 fathoms from the surface. Blind coal is also wrought in the same quarter of the parish, though higher up. . The field is troubled ahd irregular, and not very extensive. It is sometimes intersected by cross dikes of free and whinstone. The dip is 8 fathoms, and its direction is to the north-west. The quality is good, and the thickness of the seam is 4 feet It is used by millers for drying grain on the kiln, and likewise in hot^houses, because it emits no smoke when ignited. Zoology. — In addition to the common species of the feathered tribe, which we havein great abundance, — ^grouse, partridges, phea- sants, snipes, and wild ducks are also plentiful. Woodcocks like- wise visit us annually in considerable numbers. The black-cock has very much increased within these ten years, and is now plenti- ful, though very shy in coming within the range of the sportsman's fowling-piece. We have also the common horned owl, the screech owl with its gray plumage, and the white owl. The starling has begun to visit us lately, but is as yet a rare bird in this quarter. The lake already noticed abounds in pike, perches, and eels. There is also plenty of trout in the Lugar ; and in former years, salmon used to come up in the end of the season, to spawn, in considerable numbers ; but now, few or none are seen, owing, I be- lieve, to a dam that has been made in the river at Ayr. The caterpillar does not seem to be so abundant, or so destruc- tive in its ravages, here, as in many other parts of the country. ft ood-^PlantatioM. — The pari A is well wooded, and the follow- ing is a list of some of the trees that are found in it ; oak, ash, elm, beech, plane, Scotch fir, spruce, silver fir, Weymouth pine. Balm of Gilead, saugh of many kinds, poplar, mountain ash, yew-tree holly, birch, sweet chestnut, horse chestnut, lime-tree, larch, thorn- tree, evergreen oak, crab-tree, Lombardy poplar, scarlet beech, OLD CUMNOCK. 479 scarlet maple, scarlet chestDut, Italian maple^ scarlet oak, white acacia, Norway maple, snake maple, cedar tree, &c &c* Some of these trees measure nearly 300 feet solid, while many of them are above 200 solid feet. IL — Civil History. The following account of the ancient history of the parish is taken from Chalmers' Caledonia. Cumnock was of old a rectory, the patronage whereof belonged to the proprietors of the barony of Cumnock. In the reign of David II. the barony of Cumnock, with the patronage of the church, belonged to Patrick Dunbar, the Earl of March, who resigned them in 1368 to his eldest son and heir, Geoi^e, to whom, at the same time, he resigned the Earl- dom of March. Greorge, Earl of March, resigned the barony of C>umnock, with the patronage of the church, to David Dunbar, who obtained a charter thereupon from the King in March 1374-5. In the fifteenth century, the rectory of Cumnock was converted into a prebend of the cathedral church of Glasgow, with the con- sent of the patron, who continued to hold the patronage of the rectory and prebend. After that event, the church of Cumnock was served l)y a vicar, who had a fixed stipend, and the remainder of the revenues of the church went to the rector, who was a canon or prebendary of Glasgow. There belonged to the church of Cumnock, lands extending to two merk lands of old extent, upon which stands the village of Cumnock. In September 1509, James Dunbar of Cumnock, the proprietor of the barony, and patron of the parish, obtained a charter firom James IV. creating the church lands of Cumnock into a free burgh of barony, and granting li- cense to Sir Thomas Campbell, the prebendary of Cumnock, and his successors, to let the lands of his glebe in borough roods for building. In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood in the reign of James v., the rectory of Cumnock, a prebend of Glasgow, was taxed L» 16, being a tenth of its estimated value. Before the Reformation, there was a chapel on the lands of Borland in this parish, the vestiges whereof are still extant, and the farm on which it stood bears the name of Chapel-house. About the year 1612, the barony of Cumnock, with the patronage of the church, wa^ sold by John Dunbar of Cumnock and Westfield, and, after passing through several hands, it came, in the reign of Charles IL, into the possession of the Earl of Dumfries. The barony aud the patronage have continued since in that family, and be- long to the Marquis of Bute, who, as Earl of Dumfries, is patron 480 AYRSHIRE. of both the parishes of Old and New Cumnork. In 1660, the ex- tensive parish of Cumnock was divided, and the southern division was formed into a distinct parish called New Cumnock^ for which a new parish church was built. The northern division, containing the burgh of barony of Cumnock, formed the parish of Old Cum^ nock* The old church remained till 1754, when a new church was builu Historical Notices. — It is related in the Life of John Welsh, mi- nister of Ayr, that about the year 1600, two travelling merchants, each with a pack of cloth upon a horse, who had been denied an entrance into Ayr, because Mr Welsh assured the magistrates that the plague was in their packs, had, on their being dismissed from Ayr, gone to Cumnock, and there sold their goods. There fol- lowed upon this such a plague in the town of Cumnock, that the living, it is said, were hardly able to bury the dead. There are still traditions of this melancholy event to be found among the people y and the place is pointed out where those who died of the plague are reported to have been buried, at a short distance from what was then the churchyard. But I have not heard of any re- mains of human bodies having been found there. Eminent Men. — The application of steam to the purposes of na- vigation, which is brought to such a high degree of perfection among us, owes its original invention to the late Mr James Taylor, who, for many years, superintended the mines on the Dumfries estate in this parish. Mr Taylor was living in the family of Mr Millar of Dalswinton, in the year 1787, when the latter gentleman made trial, in the Frith of Forth, of a vessel he had constructed with intermediate paddles, driven by a capstan. Mr Millar's experiment was very suc- cessful, in so ikr as the utility of the paddles was concerned ; but on seeing the men very much exhausted, by the labour of turning the capstan, Mr Taylor became convinced, that, in order to ren- der the experiment really useful, some other power must be ap- plied. He suggested the steam-engine to Mr Millar, as a power that might probably be employed with advantage. An engine was accordingly constructed, and on the 14th October 1788, the ex- periment was made on the lake of Daiswinton, with a double boat, having an engine, with a four inch cylinder, placed on the deck* The boat was propelled by the engine, at the rate of five miles an hour. This was the first specimen of steam navigation in the world* For it was not until the year 1807, nineteen years afiter- OLD CUMNOCK. 481 wards, that Mr FuUon introduced it into the rivers of America, nor until the year 1812, that Mr Henry Bell brought it into use on the Clyde. * As too often happens, in similar cases, the name of the original inventor, has, in a great measure, been left in obscurity ; while the invention itself has benefited, in the highest possible degree, not our country only, but the whole civilized world. It was thus, in a small obscure lake, in the south of Scotland, that that giant power was first applied to navigation, by an individual, now almost unknown, — which seems destined, at no distant period, to constitute the grand moving power in the navigation of the globe. Hugh Logan, Esq. of Logan, the famous Ayrshire wit, resided during the greater part of his life, on his estate in this parish ; and there is a stone, near to the house of Logan, which goes by the name of Logan's pillar, where, it is said, he was much in the habit of sitting, and cracking his jokes with those around him. His num- berless witticisms and sarcasms, which were oftentimes pregnant, not only with the most genuine humour, but likewise marked by an eagle-eyed discrimination, as well as an unsparing dissection of character, and conduct, are generally current among the people of this district, and form an unfailing source of amusement at their jovial meetings. But, from the frequent mixture of coarseness and profanity that interlard them, they have by no means contribut- ed to promote the interests, either of religion or morality, in the neighbourhood. The dust of the celebrated Alexander Peden slumbers within the precincts of Cumnock church-yard, and sheds a solemn sacred- ness around that abode of death, which enshrines it in the hallow- ed recollections of every Scottish Christian. For many have come far and near, to see the place where Peden lies, to read the time- worn inscription on his tombstone, and to view the two thorns which mark his last resting-place. Mr Peden was a native of the neigh- bouring parish of Sorn. A little before the Restoration, he was settled minister at New Luce in Galloway, where he continued about three years, and was then ejected by the violent tyranny of these times, because of his faithful and unbending allegiance to Christ's crown and covenant He was first buried in the Laird of Auchinleck's aisle ; but after he had been forty days in the grave, a troop of dragoons came and disinterred his body. They brought it in its decaying putrid state to Cumnock, intending to have it * Any who wish to be fully satisfied of the truth of the above statements, may con- sult a narrative drawn up by Mr Robert Chambers of Edinburgh, publislied in 1894. AYR. H h 482 AYRSHIRE. hung up ID chains on the gallows \ but, at the earnest intercession of the Countess of Dumfries, and the Lady Affleck, the Earl of Dumfries interfered, and told Murray that he had erected the gtb^ bet for murderers and malefactors, and not for such men as Peden. The body was therefore reinterred at Cumnock gallows' foot, be- side other martyrs. Antiquities. — The ruins of Terringzean Castle stand on a small rising ground, near to the banks of the Lugar, and within the pleasure grounds of Dumfries House. This castle once belong^^ ed to the family of Loudoun, and the present Countess is still styled Baroness of Terringzean. There are no traditions connect*- ed with it Some traces of an ancient ruin, called Boreland Castle, are also to be seen on the south side of the parish, and not very far from this castle, the vestiges of a small Popish chapel, are still extant The small &rmon which it stands is called Chapel Houses and has been occupied by the same family as tenants, in regular succession, for several hundred of years. There are several resting-places of the martyred dead in the pa- rish. Some lie around Peden's grave, and mingle their dust wkh his. One of the name of MacGeahan, lies in the &rm of Stone- park^ on the estate of Logan ; and there are three others whose dust reposes out in the moor, that forms the south-west boundary of the parish. New monuments have lately been erected over both of these ; as the former ones had become very much dilapidated* Land-Ovmers. — There are six heritors in the parish, namely, the Marquis of Bute ; James Allason, Esq. of Glasnock ; W. A. Cunninghame, Esq. of Logan ; Mrs Boswell of Garallan ; Robert Campbell, Esq. of Skerrington ; and Lieutenant- Colonel Camp- bell of Avisyard. Two of these reside permanently on their estates, two are occasionally resident, and the other two non-resident. Mansian-Houses. — Dumfries House, the seat of the Marquis of Bute, is finely situated on the banks of the Lugar, over which a very elegant bridge is thrown, near to the house, in order to con- nect the beautiful pleasure grounds that stretch to a considerable extent along both sides of the river. The house is built with tlie fine blue freestone already spoken of, and is about eighty years old. The walls of the drawing-room are hung with very fine old tapes- try, in a state of beautiful preservation, and said to have been pre- sented by Louis the Fourteenth to one of the Earls of Dumfries. The other mansion-houses are, Logan^ Grarrallan, and €rlasnock. The last of. these is a very elegant house, lately built, on the banks OLD CUMNOCK. 483 of the Glasnock. It is built of a beautiful white freestone, from a quarry on the banks of the Lugar. Parochial Registers. — The register of baptisms begins in 1704. There are blanks in it from 1706 to 1724, from 1789 to 1740, from 1746 to 1761, and from 1752 to 1763. The baptisms only are recorded up to the year 1768. After this period, the births also are, for the most part, entered along with them. A few only of the Dissenters register their children. The register of prodamations for marriage begins in 1768; but, up to the year 1782^ no notioe is taken of the marriages. Subsequent to this period, the date of the marriage is also entered. No regis- ter of deaths is kept III. — Population. The population of the parish has been doubled since the year 1766 ; while that of the town has increased threefold in the same period. The- following is a view of it at five different periods : The population of the whole parish in 1755 was 1386 persons. 1765, 1306 1792; 1692 1821, 2348 1881, 2763 Tlie population cf the village in 1 765, amounted to 580 persons. 1831, 1600 Undward in 1765, . 725 1881, 1163 From the above statement it appears, that, in a period of sixty-six years, the town has increased its population nearly threefold ; while the landward part of the parish has only added to its popu- lation, during the same period, little more than a half. The reason of this great disparity in the rate of increase between the town and country, is owing to the introduction, into the town, within the above period, of the manufacture of snuff-boxes, and also of weaving. The number of marriages in the parish averages 23 annually ; and the births range from 90 to 100. The people are, in general, above the middle size ; and are well formed and proportioned, in consonance with the old adage, ** Kyle for a man.'' The plaid is universally worn, both by men and women, in summer as well as in winter. When tastefully put on, it contributes very much to give elegance of form and appear- ance, more especially to the female figure; which, perhaps, is one reason why the Ayrshire women are so much noted for their fine forms. 484 AYRSHIRE. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The parish contains about 13,000 Scotch acres ; 500 of these are under plantation, and about 2000 are moor- land. The moorland, however, is now rapidly being brought into a state of culture. The rest of the parish is arable. Wedge draining with turf has been a good deal employed in reclaiming the moorlands, and with great success. The Mar- quess of Bute has lately erected a tile-work on his estate here; and has bound his tenants to drain a certain number of acres each year, in proportion to the extent of their farms. The system en- joined on them is furrow draining, — the dnuns are to be made twenty-one inches deep, and, where the bottom is soft, the tiles are to be placed on soles. Lord Bute furnishes the tiles, free of expense, at the tile-worL The tenants are required to cart them away, to cut the drains, lay the tiles, and cover them at their own expense. This imperative obligation, laid on the farmers to im- prove their farms, accompanied as it is with such liberal encourage- ment on the part of the proprietor, affords the certain prospect of a speedy and most beneficial change on the agricultural aspect of the parish. It will go to secure a general and uniform improve- ment over the whole of Dumfries estate, which forms the greater part of the parish, instead of its being confined, as heretofore, to detached farms, occupied by wealthy and enterprising farmers. Rent of Land) jfc. — The rent of land varies very considerably throughout the parish. It ranges from L. 4, for the land near the town, to 15s. or even 10s. per acre, for the high moorlands. The average rent of farms is about L. 1 per acre. The grazing of a cow in the vicinity of the town costs from L» 3 to L. 4 ; and it takes from one to two and a half acres of pasture for this purpose, according to the quality of the soil. The average pasture required for a cow is nearly two acres. The cows are all of the Ayrshire breed ; and much attention has been paid of late by the farmers to the improvement of their stocL There is a local Farmer's Association, patronised by the Marquis of Bute, which awards annual premiums for the best specimens of milk cows in point of colour, form, beauty, and symmetry of proportions. There are some, indeed, who go so far as to say that there is a dash of blood in some cows. The farmers depend chiefly on the produce of the dairy for the payment of their rents ; and a farm is considered high rented, if the dairy does not provide for a considerable part of the rent. OLD CUMNOCK. 485 The cheese made in the parish will bear a comparison in point of quality with any in the district. The duration of the leases is from fourteen to nineteen years. In many cases, there is a break in the middle of the lease, that may be taken advantage of by either party. The rents are in ge- neral paid by a stipulated sum of money, though in some instances, they are paid one-third money, and two-thirds cheese and meal, according to the fiars prices. The farm-steadings, in general, are after the form of a continu- ous line of building, which is not the most convenient for dairy operations. Many of them are in good repair, while there are others that stand very much in need of being rebuilt. The new steadings are for the most part in the form of a square. The great- er part of the parish is enclosed with hedgerows. The wages of ploughmen are firom L. 10 to L. 14 a year, and of dairy maids from L» 3 to L. 4 a half year. Labourers get from Is. 6d. to Is. 8d. a day. There are three corn-mills, and a wheat-mill in the parish, also a carding-mill and dye-work. The valued rent of the parish is L» 3864, 2s. 8d. The real rent is about L. 8000 Sterling. The total number of milk cows in the parish is about 1000; and the average yearly produce of each cow is 1 1 or 12 stones tron of cheese. The number of sheep in the parish is from 1000 to 1200. Average gross amount of raw produce : Cheese, ...... L. 8672 Rje-mas, ...... 1599 Meaoow hay, ..... 538 Oats, .... . 10,000 Wheat,. .... 250 Barley, ...... 674 Bear, ...... 674 Potatoes, ..... 1400 Peas and beans, .... 900 Turnips, ..... 500 Total yearly value of raw produce, . L. 20,207 Manufactures. — Cumnock has long been famed for the ingenious and beautiful manufacture of wooden snuff-boxes, which has been carried on in it, for the last thirty years. It rose from a very small and rude beginning to its present state of perfection. An ingenious artist of the name of Crawford caught the first idea of them from a box made at Lawrencekirk, which had been sent to him to re- pair. The distinguishing excellence of the Cumnock snuff-boxes 486 AYRSHIRE. lies in the hiDge, which is extremely ingenious in point of con- trivance, as well as exquisitely delicate in point of execation ; so that it is with much propriety styled ^^ the invisible wooden hinge/' The principle on which the hinge is formed, as well as the instru- ments employed in making it, were for many years kept a secret ; but are now no longer so. The wood used in the manufacturo is plane tree, it being preferable to all others by reason of its close texture. The tree is first of all cut from the centre towards the circumference into triangular pieces. These are then put to dry^ and season, for at least five months, under cover. One set of artists make the boxes, another paint those beautifnl designs that em- bellish the lids, while women and children are employed in varnish- ing and polishing them* The process of varnishing a single box takes from three to six weeks. Spirit varnish takes three weeks, and requires about thirty coats ; while copal varnish, which is now mostly used, takes six weeks, and requires about fifteen coats to com- plete the process. When the process of varnishing is finished, the surface is polished with ground flint ; and then the box is ready for the market. These ingenious and elegant specimens of art have been brought by successive improvement to an astonishing degree of perfection ; and the skill of the artists, sharpened and stimulated by keen ri- valry, is continually advancing this curious and beautiful manufao* ture to a higher pitch of improvement. At one time a single box, vrithout either painting or varnishing, but just as it came from the hands of the maker, sold for dOsi, whereas at present, seven such boxes can be had for 12s. A few years ago, a solid foot of wood that cost only 3s., could be manufactured into boxes worth L. 100 Sterling. And then the workmanship increased the original value of the wood nearly 700 times. But at present, a solid foot of wood will only yield in finished boxes about L 9 Sterling. The workman- ship thus only brings at present one-eleventh part of its former price. In consequence of this great decline in the price of the boxes, the wages of the artists have also been much lowered. A few years ago, the box-maker made L. 1, Is. a week, the painter L. 2, 28., the vamisher 12s.; whereas now the box-maker only makes lOs. to 12s., the painter 15s., and the vamisher 5s. to 6s. a week. A system of chequering has now almost superseded the painting of the boxes. It is done by very ingenious and nicely adjusted machines, that are worked by boys, and is much less expensive OLD CUMNOCK, 487 than painting. Ing^uity creates endless and ever increasing va- rieties of cheques ; and many of them are most beautiful in point of pattern and figure, as well as of the most exquisite delicacy in point of colouring. The yearly value of the boxes made in Cumnock may average about L, 1600 Sterling ; while fifteen years ago, the same number of boxes would have brought L. 6000 Sterling. The total num* ber of persons employed in this manu&cture is about 50. The perio4 of work is eleven hours a day. There is a pottery in the town, in which browp ware of a very superior quality is made. Clay of the best kind is to be had in the parish. There is likewise a manufactory of thrashing-machines, cheese presses, &c, in the town. The thrashing-mills made in it are of the very best-construction, and are held in high repute through* out the west of Scotl^uid. A considerable number are sent to Ire- land. Weaving in its various branches forms the chief manufacture in the town. When trade is brisk, there are more than 120 looms at worL Hand-sewing is also a common employment among women and girls, and they are very dexterous and tasteful in the execution of their work. . V. — Parochial Economy. Toum of Cumnock. — Cumnock was erected in the year 1609 into a free burgh of barony, by a charter from James IV., and li* berty was given to the prebendary of Cumnock, and his succes- sors, to let his glebe in borough roods for building. JPam.-— There are several annual fairs held in the town. It has a baron bailie, who is appointed by the Marquis of Bute. The town of Cumnock is snugly and finely situated in a hollow, at the confluence of the Glasnock and Lugar waters. The prin- cipal part of the town is a quadrangular space, called the Square, formerly the burybg-ground, but now the market place, which is surrounded by houses most of them of recent erection. In the centre of the square, stands the parish church. There are besides the square, three pretty long streets, in which there are some very good houses. The rest of the town consists of very narrow lanes, irregularly built The town in general is pretty clean and health- ful. The beiMity of its situation, combined with the picturesque baaks of the Lugar^ and the fine woodlands in the vicinity, to- 488 AYRSHIRE. gether with the striking effect produced by some fine old Crees,' rearing their heads among the houses, call forth the admiration of travellers. There are excellent shops of all kinds in the town. The Ayr- shire Banking Company has a branch established in it, and there is also a prirate agent of Hunters and Company. A gas work has been recently erected for supplying the town with light, which pro- mises to be of great public utility. From its central position in regard to the neighbouring parishes, a great deal of business is transacted in the town, much more than its size would lead a stranger to expect. It is a curious fact, that the four principal entrances to the town, on the east, west, north, and south side, are all down hill ; so that there is no descent from the town but the channel of the Lugar. Means of Communicaiion. — There is a post^ofiice in the town, and we have two arrivals of the mail daily, one from London, and the other from Glasgow. There are fourteen miles of turnpike roads in the parish. There are also cross-roads in all directions, which are kept in very good repair. A stage-coach from Glas- gow, and another from Carlisle, pass through the town daily. Cum- nock is distant from Edinburgh 60 miles, from Glasgow 37 miles, from Dumfries 46 miles, from Ayr 16 miles, and from Kilmar-. nock 16 miles. There are 5 weekly carriers to Glasgow, 1 to Edinburgh, 6 to Ayr, 2 to Kilmarnock, and 3 to Dumfries. The road to Glasgow passes through Kilmarnock. There is a coach to Ayr twice a week. Post-horses, chaises, and cars, can be had in the town. There are 16 bridges in the parish, of which three are in the town. They are in general too narrow ; and the one over the Lugar has its arch at by far too great an elevation above the le- vel of the road. A plan has long been in agitation for improving the road from Cumnock to Ayr, which is now being carried into effect'; also the road from Kilmarnock to Sanquhar, passing through Cumnock, which stands in great need of an improved line. A survey has lately been made of the line from Carlisle to Glasgow, through Dumfries, Cumnock, Kilmarnock, &c., and it has been found one of the most level lines for a rail-road to be met with. Ecclesiatiical State. — The parish church was built in 1754, and stands in the centre of the town. The distance from the remotest parts of the parish is from five to six miles. It is in a state of pret- OLD CUMNOCK. 489 ty good repair, though too small for the accommodation of the pa- rish. It contaiDs from 600 to 700 sittings. The heritors seem quite willing to enlarge the present church ; but there are diffi- culties in regard to the best mode of getting it accomplished. Se- veral plans have been laid before them with this view, but none of these has as yet been adopted. The parish church is in ge- neral well attended; though there are not a few in the parish who are very negligent in attending on the means of grace. The most remote in point of distance are in general the most regular in their attendance. The manse was built about the year 1750, though several ad- ditions have subsequently been made to it It is very prettily situated on the banks of the Lugar, on the north side of the town ; and for an old house, it is in a tolerable state of repair. The. extent of the glebe may be from 11 to 12 acres, but a part of it is not arable. The yearly value will be about L.20. The stipend is L.218 in money. There is a Dissenting church in the town, in connection with the United Secession, which may contain about 000 sittings. The number of communicants belonging to the Established Church is about 500. The collections made in the parish church, in behalf of religious and benevolent objects, amounted last year to the sum of L.S9, 18s. l^d. Nearly two-thirds of the population of the parish belong to the Established Church, and rather more than one-third are Dissenters. Education. — There is one parochial school in the parish. The average number of scholars in it will be about 100. Besides the ordinary branches, Latin and mathematics are also taught The school fees are — 3s. for English reading, ds. 6d. for writing, 4s. for arithmetic, and 6s. for Latin per quarter of twelve weeks. There are also five private schools in the parish, and sometimes one or two additional during winter. There are very few above the age of fourteen who are not able to read and write, as parents evince a laudable anxiety to give their children the common branches of education; and the Marquis of Bute pays for the education of twenty poor children, which is a great boon to the parish. The parish schoolmaster, in addition to the maximum salary, receives L.25 a year from a mortified fund left by a Mr Duncan, for the purpose of educating and providing with school- books, &C. twelve poor children, natives of the parish. He is 490 AYRSHIRB. also provided with the legal accommodation. The probable yearly amount of shool fees is about L. 20, There are four Sabbath schools in the parish in connexion with the parish church ; three of which are in the country, and one in the town, consisting of nearly 300 scholars in all There is a small library of religious books for the use of the scholars. Literature. — There are two public libraries in the town. Charitable Institutions — Friendly Societies. — There are three friendly societies in the parish, which seem to have done great good» not only in affording relief to the needy, but in cherishing a spirit of independence among the working^classes. The following table will give a view of their nature and operation. Nome. Whenjbrmuk No. ofMembert. Funds. Wedc^ AUomance. Community^ 1814 113 L.95 8s. when copfined. 4a. when on ibol. Centenary, 1825 100 45 Do. do. Weavers, 1809 70 35 Ss. when confined 2b, 6d. when on foot. Each member pays Id. a week for each person claiming relief, besides 8d. a quarter. From L. 1 to L. 5 is allowed for funeral expenses, on the death of a member, besides a small allowance per quarter to his widow. Saoings Bank. — There is a savings bank in the town, patro- nized by the Marquis of Bute ; and which is under the direo^ tion of the heritors and minister of Old Cumnock, the ministers of New Cumnock and Auchinleck ; and of which the parish school- master of Old Cumnock is treasurer. It was instituted in 1881, and receives deposits from the parishioners of New Cumnock and Auchinleck, as well as of Old CumnocL It owed its prosperity chiefly to the devoted attention of Mr Campbell» the treasurer. The stock on first January 1886 amounted to L» 810 ; depo* sits from that date till 2d January 1887, were L. 421, 9s. i^d. ; the sums drawn out during that period, L. 251, ds. 4id. ; accu- mulated stock on the 2d January 1837, L. 980, The number of depositors during the year was 223 ; and they oonsbt, for the most part, of male and female servants, though there b also a number of trades people among them. This insti? tution is Ukely to prove of incalculable advantage to the working classes. Poor and Parochial Funds.-^lht average number on the poor's roll is about 30, being about one pauper for every ninety-two individuals in the parish. The sum allowed to each p^r month OLD CUMNOCK. 491 varies from 3s. to 10s., according to the urgency of the case. The average sum is 5s. or 6s. each per month. The total sum distributed by the kirk-session last year was L. 105, 13s. 2^d. The sources from which this sum was obtained were, church col- lections, L. 66, 12s. 6^d. ; voluntary assessment on the heritors, L. 30; rent of some seats in church, L. 7, 16s. There is a mortification of L. 25 annually, under the manage- ment of the heritors and minister, which is given to needy persons who are not on the poor's rolL A large quantity of meal is distri- buted annually by the Marquis of Bute, to poor persons in this parish, in regular allowance, once a fortnight Either to ask or to obtain relief from the poor's funds is by no means regarded in so degrading a light as it was wont to be. There is a sad decline of late years in the spirit of independence that used to exist ; and relief from the kirk-session is now received more as a matter of legal right than as a gratuity. Fairs. — There are four annual fairs held in the town, in Fe- bruary, May, July, and October, O. S. IfmSj jfc— There are two inns in the town, and thirteen houses where ardent spirits are sold. These latter have considerably de- creased within these four or five years ; but there are still by far too many of them, and their efifects on the morals of the people are most injurious. It was very much the custom sometime ago to give half a dozen rounds, or more, of spirits, wine, &c at funerals ; but there has been a decided improvement in this respect, of late years ; and, in many cases, the giving of spirits is now wholly discontinued on such occasions. Fuel. — Abundance of coal is to be had in the parish and neigh- bourhood. The price is about 5s. per ton at the pit ; and laid down in the town, about 8s. per ton. November 1837 PARISH OF KIRKMICHAEL. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JOHN M'EWEN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History, Name. — Th£ name of this parish, which is common to no fewer than five parishes in Scotland, is obviously derived from St Mi- chael, a saint of great note in the Romish Breviary, — who flourish- ed in the tenth century. Boundaries J Extent. — Its extent in imperial measure is 15,250 acres. Its greatest length is 12 miles ; its greatest breadth 5 miles, 6f th furlongs. It is bounded on the north and north-east by Dal- rymple ; on the east by Straiten ; on the south by Dailly ; and on the west and north-west by Kirkoswald and Maybole. Topographical Appearances. — The character of the parish is hilly. On the banks of the rivers and streams, there are consi- derable tracts of level ground ; but these bear a small proportion to what are unequal and undulating. The hill-pasture continues fresh and green, for most part of the season. In the upland farms, there is some little heath and moss, but no naked rock. The ground to the south from the Girvan Water continues to rise, with some interruptions, till it reaches the hill of Glenalla, which is 1612 feet above the level of the sea. The eminence above the farm-house of Guiltree-hill is well worth being visited. On the one side, are the Galloway and Straiten heights, with the rich and well-wooded valley of the Girvan ; and on the other, are seen, in still grander outline, the bold peaks of Arran, the bay of Ayr, and the towns along the coast, with the Highland hills and Ben- lomond in the distance. Climate and Soil — The climate is similar to that of the districts situated on the western coast. The wind blows west and south- west, at least three-quarters of the year ; and the rain from the same quarter is proportionally frequent and copious. It is to this cause chiefly, that Ireland is indebted for her green fields, and KIRKMICHAEL. 493 Ayrshire for its far-famed pasture. The atmosphere, though humid, is mild and salubrious. There are no prevailing diseases in the parish. Fever sometimes exists among the destitute poor, but seldom to any fatal extent. Pulmonary complaints, which are said to be so much on the increase in some places, do not seem to be so here. It is a fact now admitted by all, that the great improvement of land by furrow-draining, which has been so ex- tensively introduced into the district, has contributed materially to promote the general health of the community. The soil on the haughs, is a rich sharp mould, which, when properly cultivated, sends forth most luxuriant crops. In other parts, it is of a clayey nature, inclining to loam. On sloping arable lands, and on the sides of some of the lower hills, it is light and gravellish ; while on mountain elevations, it is a covering of thin turf, on a shingly bottom. The following are the number and probable size of the lochs in the parish. Drumore contains about 9 imperial acres ; Kirkmichael, 5 ; Barnshean, 28 ; Shankston, 12 ; Croot, 10 ; and Spalander, 45 ; in all, 109 acres.* Of these Spalander is justly celebrated for its trout, plentiful and good. Char also is found in this lake. Geology. — The prevailing rock throughout the parish is sand- stone ; and an examination of the dip and direction of the strata, in the courses of the Dyrock Burn and the Girvan Water, dis- tinctly indicates its character and geological relations. The Dy- rock flows through the northern part of the parish, in a south- westerly direction, and joins the Girvan, a mile below the village ; and in tracing its banks from the junction upwards, the sandstone strata are found to dip at an angle of about fifteen degrees to- wards the north-east, which inclination can be traced throughout the parish of Dalrymple, till they pass under the Coylton coal- field. Towards the east, the sandstone becomes much redder in colour, and harder in texture ; and the ridge at Guiltree-hill exhibits clinkstone or wack6. In crossing the country from the Dyrock to the Girvan Water, the sandstone near Glenside is found to change its inclination, and to dip away to the south-west, where it soon also passes into the wack^, and is, towards Patna, and more to the east, surmounted by the coal measures. The axis on which the sandstone turns, in opposite directions, is very * A small deduction ought to be made from this amount, on acc3unt of five acres of Spalander that belong to the neighbouring parish of Straiton— -which, however, become entirely dry land in a burning eummer Uke 1826. 494 AYRSHIRE. distinctly seen on the Girvan Water, a little above the Castle of Cloncaird, and may be traced, exhibiting the same relative posi- tion to the coal measures, from Glenside to the sea, — ctrcwastan-- ces which plainly identify it with the old red sandstone formation. On the north of Spalander Bum, on the farm of Glenside, a ridge of highly crystalline greenstone rises through the strata^ and the trap, in a similar way, may be observed at several points in the course of the Girvan. On the same farm, a bed of Ume- stone is fonnd, which has been quarried for agricultural purposes by Mr Ritchie, the proprietor. No oi^ganic remains have been noticed in it ; and along with the great and valuable strata of lime- stone found on the south side of the Girvan "Water, on the pro- perties of Sir David Hunter Blair and William Niven, Esq. of Kirkbride, it is obviously, with the ned sandstone, to be classed among the members of the carboniferous series. Good clay for the manufacture of tiles, is found near the lime- quarry at Glenside; and by his liberal use of these two important substances, Mr Ritchie has converted a naturally cold and barren tract into dry and fruitful fields, which in many cases exhibit as smooth and ver- dant a surface as the lower lands of the parish. In the wack6 at Guiltree-hill and Montgomerieston, veins of galena are found, of sufficient importance to have been at one time worked ; and they are said to have' yielded a high per centage of silver. The surface of the land, and more particularly along Barclay-hill, on the Kirk- michael estate, is covered with granite boulders,— some of which are of great magnitude, and are raised and dressed for gate- pillars, and as large blocks for the harbour of Ayr. The peculiar situation of the boulders on the eastern declivities appears to indicate a current from the south-east, which is exactly in the direction of the mountains at Loch Doon, where granite is found in situ. Hydrography. — The River Girvan nearly divides the parish. Rising on the hills of Ban* and Straiten, it enters Kirkmichael be- low Blairquhan, and flowing past the seat of Henry Ritchie, Esq. beautifully situated on an eminence above, it reaches the village of Crossbill when, after a winding course of two miles, it forms the boundaty between Dailly and Kirkoswald. From the Cloncaird approach, it has a very striking appearance, with its broad channel, and rapid stream, and banks embellished with wood rising precipi- tously on both sides. The River Doon, whose " banks and braes" have been immor- talized by the classic muse of Bums, touches this parish about two KIRKMICHABL. 495 miles 9^ a half below Patna. Passing the house, pleasure grounds, and gardens of Skeldon, the village of Dalrymple, and the old and stately mansion of Cassilis, it strikes to the west, dividing the parishes of Maybole and Dalrymple. The little stream of Dyrock takes its rise from Shankston loch, has a small tributary from Barnshean, and the main one from Spa^ lander, and thence flowing by the church and village of Kirkmichael, it empties itself into the Girvan above the farm of Mackailston. 11.— Civil History. LaHd-'&wners* — The landowners of the parish, according to the order of valuation, are: The Marquis of Ailsa; Colonel Shaw Kennedy of Kirkmichael ; Sir Charles Dalrymple Fergusson, of Kilkerran, Bart.; Sir David Hunter Blair, of Blairquhan, Bart; Henry Ritchie, Esq. of Busbie ; William Niven, Esq. of Kirk- bride; the Honourable Mrs Leslie Cumming of Skeldon; Wil- liam Bell, Esq. of Threave. Parochial JReffisters^-^The sessional records were kept some- ifhat irregularly, till about the year 1711. The date of the earliest entry is 8th July 16d8i The following extracts from ihe session books are given. Some of these possess merely local interest, while others serve to illustrate the sentiments of a former age, in matters of religious observance and church discipline. *^ In 1692, Mr Gilchrist, after the persecution, having consti- tuted a session of elders that had held office during Mr Cockburn's ministry, he then enquired into the old session book, which had been taken by the late curate, who had been apprehended in a rebellion in the north, imprisoned, and then escaped to France, and taken with him the register, which it was supposed he had destroyed.'' ** Session, September 24, 1693. — The session appoints John Forgan to employ a Straitown tailor to make a coul or covering of sackcloth for the said Jonat Kennedy, like unto that which they have in Straiten ; there having been no such thing here for these many years, it's thought none of the tailors of this parish know how to make it." ^* Session, October 16, 1693. — The minister told the session, that he was appointed by the synod to goe to Aberdeen against the first of November next, and to preach in that city the space ' of a quarter of ane year." ^* Session, June 26, 1710. — Likewise it was concluded by the session, that there should be a collection gathered for repairing of 496 AYRSHIRE. the bridge of Kirkmichael, which is like to become ruinous, aud the next two Sabbath coUectious that there is sermon here, is to be applyed for that use." Several bridges in the neighbourhood were built by the same means, A.D. 1711. Sermon on week days commonly once a fortnight, ^^ except in plough time and harvest." ^< Session, September 28, 1712. — Also the minister proposed that there should be a diet for prayer appointed, which was accord- ingly done, to be observed at the manse Saturday next." From the session books, it appears that such diets were appointed from time to time. There was, very frequently, one observed on the Mon- day before the sacrament. " Session, January 26, 1725. — This day David Armour con- tracted with the session to build the bridge over the Doon at Dalrymple for the sum of L.76, Is. Sterling." *^ Session, April 24, 1726. — The session having considered Sa- rah M^Kie's case (adultery), agree that she appear in sackcloth, and that none guilty of that sin shall be dispensed with as to the use of sackcloth in time coming," For this offence she appeared eight times before the congregation, besides being as of);en ad- monished privately and examined by the session on the principles of religion, on the nature of repentance, &c. Antiquities. — There are traces of five British or Danish fortlets in this parish, two in the farm of Guiltreehill, one in Keonston, one in Cassanton, and another in Castle Downans.* They are all circular, and are supposed to belong to the early period of the fourteenth century. They are about 100 yards in diameter, with a ditch of near 15 feet wide ; on being ploughed up, fragments of pitchers, spears, horns, ashes, &c. are everywhere discovered. The ruins of an old Romish chapel lately existed on the farm of Linsayston, opposite to the new house of Tannock Park. The last of die stones were taken, a few years ago, to fill drains. It is said to have been in connection with the Abbey of Crossraguel, The well is still known by the name of the Chapel- well, and was contiguous to the building. In the troublous times of 1685, Gilbert M^Adam was taken * The CassUlis Downans are five beautiful green little hills, about half a mile south from the house of Cassillis. They are mentioned in the first stanza of Burns* Hal- loween. Upon that night when fiiiries light On Cassillis* Downans dance. Or owre the leys, in splendid blase. On sprightly coursers dimce. KIRKMICHAEL. 497 prisoner, and carried to Dumfries, on a charge of non-conformity, but was liberated on a heavy caution being given. Soon after, he was again apprehended, and, refusing the oath of allegiance and supremacy, he was banished to the Plantations. In the course of the same year, however, he contrived to return, and, late upon a Saturday night or early on Sabbath morning, in a cottage near the present House of Kirkmichael, when, with some of his friends at a meeting for prayer, he was surprised by a company of militia, and shot in attempting to escape by a window. In the church-yard, a tomb-stone was placed over his remains, with an epitaph recording the circumstances of his death by the ^* Laird of Colzean and Ballochmyl." By some hand these two names were erased. Old Mortality, however, took care to re-insert them, and they now re- main as legible as the original lettering. In 1829, a new tomb- stone was erected, in which the old tablet is preserved.* Cassillis House, the property of the Marquis of Ailsa, is a fine old building, romantically situated on the banks of the Doon. It seems to belong f o the middle of the fifteenth century. An excel- lent addition was made to it, in the year 1830, when it was fitted up for the late Earj. There is, besides, an extensive lawn, on which there is great abundance of timber. Under the body of the castle, there is a large subterraneous apartment, with a secret door leading to it Some years ago, this place was cleaned out,*with the view of making it a wine-cellar. In this process, a great many carts of human bones were removed. These, it is to be feared, were the lingering witnesses of deeds and times long gone by, when the devoted guest and the refractory vassal went so frequently missing, {paving met a fate which some might suspect, but none durst inquire into. Sir John Faa* — This place was the scene of the story of Sir John Faa, and furnishes the ground- work of a popular ballad.f About the middle of the seventeenth century, the Lady Jane Hamilton, daughter of the Earl of Haddington, was betrothed to the young knight of Dunbar, but a more tempting offer having been made in the person of John Earl of Cassillis, she was desired by her fa- ther to break up her former engagement. According to the spi- rit of the times, the feelings of the young lady in such an alliance were little consulted. She was treated as if she were not a party * A handsome monument has just been erected by the people of this parish, as a tribute of esteem and aiiection to their late pastor, the Rev. David Kennedy. The design is chaste and simple, and the workmanship well executed. ■f Tliere are several versions of this story : the most authentic is here given. AYR. I i 498 AYRSHIRE. concerned, or only a marketable commodity to be made over to the highest offerer. But Lady Jane was not to be so easily ma- naged. Neither the threats of her ambitious father, nor the im- portunities of her noble suitor, could divert her affections from the object of her first attachment. Having considered a great many plans, it was finally arranged that Sir John should go to the continent under a solemn pledge of returning in a few months. Two full years, however, passed with- out furnishing any intelligence of his situation. This circumstance naturally induced the belief that some dreadful calami^ had be- fallen him, — a supposition ythich seemed to be confirmed by a let- ter from the English ambassador at Madrid, giving assurance of his death by the hands of some bravos. Upon receiving this intimation, the lady at last reluctantly yielded her hand to the Earl of Cassillis. This nobleman was a person of stem and forl^idding presence, and of that haughty and imperious temper that might create awe^ but was ill fitted to awaken confidence and affection. Finding that his Countess preferred solitude and the musings of a gloomy melan- choly to his society and pleasure, he conceived for her, if not a violent dislike, at least a settled indifference. S)ie accompanied him in none of his travels, nor shared in any of his pastimes. He con- tinued to attend his public duties, or to pursue his schemes of am- bition, while she remained for months at home, dejected and heart- broken, without friend or attendant. While leading this miserable life, one evening, as she was taking her accustomed walk on the battlements of the Castle, she descri- ed a band of Gipsies making with haste to the house. Such bands were very common at that peqod, but the number and the suspi- cious appearance of this company were calculated to create consider- able alarm, the more especially as the Earl was from home attend- ing the Assembly of Divines at Westminster. On approaching the house, however, instead of offering violence, they commenced some of those wild strains, by which they generally succeeded in at- tracting the notice, and exciting the liberality of those to whom they appealed. The Countess was in the act of dropping from her window the usual gratuity, when all at once she recognized in the leader of the Gipsies the tall commanding figure of Sir John Faa. An intervew immediately ensued, and the mysterious cause of his absence was fully explained. He had been confined for four years in the Inquisition, on account of some unguarded expression he had used respectbg the Church of Rome. Upon his enlarge- KIRKMICHAEL. 499 menty he instantly hastened to London, where he learned for the first time of the marriage of Lady Jane. After many persuasions and great hesitation on the part of the Lady, she at last consented to fly with him. They had not, however, well set out, when the Earl most unexpectedly arrived with a powerful retinue of vassals, who had assembled to welcome his return, and accompany him home as a guard of honour. Being informed of what had taken place, he called his retainers, who had just alighted, to remount and pursue the fugitives. The whole party, headed by the Earl, now mad- dened with rage, and burning to repay the ancient grudge he owed his former rival, speedily overtook, and after a short encounter, captured the desperate knight and his wretched companion. On being carried back, Sir John and his followers were halted at a tree of dismal notoriety, well known by the name of the dule (dolor) tree ; while the Lady was taken to a room, from which she was compelled to witness her gallant and his associates struggling in the agonies of death. This room still goes by the name of the Countess' Room. The lady was afterwards sent to Maybole, where the family had a winter residence, and confined there for life. Her picture, which is said to be a correct likeness, hangs at present in the lobby of Cassillis. A large full tear appears falling firom her eye, too sadly descriptive of her melancholy fate. The duk tree, a plane of great expanse and beauty, still flourishes on a little knoll at the entrance to the castle. The ford where Sir John and his party crossed the Doon is known to this day as ^^ The Gipsies Steps.'* Family of Kennedy. — The family of Kennedy heM the ascend- ant in feudal times over an immense district, — from Wigton to .the town of Ayr, — and the name of Cassillis, it is well known, appears conspicuous in many details of Scottish history. As both the old residence and title are derived irom this parish, it may not be impro- per to subjoin a few particulars in connection with the early origin of the family, and its subsequent advancement to wealth and honour. The first notice we have of this ancient house is in 1220, when Nicol de Carrick granted the Church of St Cuthbert, at Maybole, to the nuns of North Berwick. His son, Roland, several years after, obtained a charter from Neil, Earl of Carrick, which in a. d. 1276 and 1872, was confirmed by Alexander III. and Robert IL respectively. This deed is intituled " Confirmatio Johannis Ken- nedy," which makes a change of name from Carrick to Kennedy, a Gaelic compound signifying the head of the bouse or fiunily. 500 AYRSHIRE. The earliest mention of the lands of Cassillis is contained in a writ given by King David II. to Sir John Kennedy about the year 1360, in which that monarch confirms to the knight the donations, grants, and venditions made to him by Marjory Montgomery, and her daughter, of the lands of Castlys^ in the county of Ayr. Soon after, the wealth and influence of the family were greatly advan- ced by the marriage of Sir James Kennedy to the daughter of King Robert IIL Gilbert, the second Earl of Cassillis, was a man of splendid talents, and was employed in several offices of high trust. He was assassinated at Prestwick, by Hugh Campbell, sheriff of the county. His son, Quintin, abbot of Crossraguel, is &mous for the dispute which, for three days, he maintained with Knox at Maybole. His zeal and learning in behalf of his &ith so much gratified the Romish clergy, that on his death he was publicly ca- nonized. Gilbert, the third Earl, was the pupil and intimate friend of the celebrated George Buchanan. The bitter satire that Buchanan ^rote against the Franciscan friars, was composed during his resi- dence at Cassillis. John, the sixth Earl, was an ardent friend of the Protestant cause in general, and of the Church of Scotland in particular. He was one of the three ruling elders sent to the Assembly of Divines at Westminster in 1643, to ratify the solemn league aud covenant. His wife was the ill-starred lady who figures in the matter with Sir John Faa. His daughter, a lady of distinguished piety and ex- cellence, was married to Bishop Burnet. His son, the seventh Earl, was the single person who lifted up his voice against the act for punishing conventicles. This indepen- dent line of conduct was so offensive to the ministry, that he was denounced an outlaw, and forced to flee from the country. Under the act of abolishing heritable jurisdictions in 1747, John, the eighth Earl, was allowed L. 1800 for the regality of Carrick, in full of his claim of L. 13,000. Modem Mansions. — Cloncaird Castle, the residence of Henry Ritchie, Esq. of Busbie, was originally in the style of feudal man- sions of the sixteenth century, having a huge square tower, narrow spiral staircase, &c. In 1814, an entire new front was built, which now renders it, both from site and exterior, one of the handsomest seats in Ayrshire. There is a large stretch of lawn in front, and plenty of fine old trees adjoining. Kirkmichael House, the property of Colonel Shaw Kennedy, KIRKMICHAEL. 501 is an excellent and commodious family residence. Contiguous is a natural lake of five acres extent, which shows to great advantage from the house. The extensive and judicious improvements lately made on the grounds will serve to beautify a spot, in itself of great natural amenity. There are some splendid trees within the policy, and very thriving plantations throughout the estate. There is a local tradition, besides some proofe from ancient do- cuments, that Blairquhan is within the original land-marks of this parish. Convenience, no doubt, suggests the propriety of its be- longing to Straiten, and possibly, in this way, the old parochial connexion may have been altered without further title or deed of annexation, ecclesiastical or civiL The main part of the beauti- ful approach to the castle, along the banks of the river, is within the present admitted boundary of the parish. III. — Population. The gradual increase of the population for the last eighty years, will appear from the subjoined account. The population in the year 1755, amounted to 710 1798, . 956 1801, - 1119 1811, . 1593 1821, - 2235 1831, - 2756 1836, . 2856 In 1831, the government census was 2758, males 1327, females 1431. Inhabited houses, - 414 Families, - - 513 Families employed in agriculture, - 174 trade and handioraft, 264 Occupiers of land employing labourers, - 36 not employing labourers, 44 Agricultural labourers, - 1^ Males employed in manufactures, - 213 Number of males 20 years old, - 632 Female household servants, - 106 Lime quarrymen, - .22 Resident heritor, - - I I Whole of the heritors of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, - 8 As near as can be ascertained the yearly average number of births for the last three years is, - 95 llie yearly average of marriages for the same period is, 25 deaths, 56 illegitimate children, - 8 Insane, - • 3 Fatuous, 4 BUnd, - . - 1 ! IV. — Industry. The number of acres standard imperial measure, in the parish, is 15,250; of which there are under wood, natural and planted, 1130. Five hundred acres might, with a profitable application of capital, be added to the cultirated land. 502 AYRSHIRE. lleni of Z>a7zJ.r— The valued rent amounU to L. 3829, 46. 8d. ; the real rent' to L. 9330. The rent of good haugh land is about L.2, 2s. per acre. The. grazing of a cow for the season is L. 3, 3s. ; of a sheep, Ss. The general duration of leases is nineteen years. Furrow-draining is extending as the good effects of it are observed. The farm-steadings are, in general, slated, comfortable, and commodious. AgrieuUural Improvements. — It is worthy of mention, that the person who, forty years ago, gave the first stimulus to farming en- terprise in this place, was the Rev. John Ramsay, the incumbent of Kirkmichael. He was the founder and the first President of the Carrick Farmers' Society, which flourishes to this day, rich in funds, and numerous and respectable in members. Although many local Associations of this nature now exist in the country, this one deserves special notice, from its early formation, and from the emi- nent success that has attended its exertions, in exciting an honour- able emulation among farmers, and in. otherwise promoting the in- terests of husbandry in the district As an enlightened and enthusiastic agriculturist, this parish sus- tained an irreparable loss in the premature and lamented death of the late Earl of Cassillis. The same activity and ardour which made his name so illustrious in sporting life, were no less conspicu- ous, when turned to more useful and important purposes. In a very short time, the whole appearance of the lands under his manage- ment was changed ; new breeds of cattle and sheep were introdu- ced ; the most approved modes of farming in all its branches were adopted ; and improvements, in a style and to an extent never be- fore attempted in Carrick, were skilfully and successfully prosecuted, when death put a sudden stop to his operations. No event of the kind ever produced, in the neighbourhood, so sincere and universal lamentation. Mr Ritchie holds the first place, in this part of the country, as an improver of land ; and his experience unites with that of other enlightened land-owners, in establishing the fact, that no outlay of capital yields so high and certain a return, as what is judiciously applied to the purposes of agricultural improvement The estate of Kirkbride, the property of William Niven, Esq. on coming to its present proprietor, was a wild, bleak, barren moor. By means of suitable enclosures, numerous belts of wood, ample fecilities for lime, drains, &c. the soil has been brought com- pletely under cultivation, and now produces most luxuriant crops. KIRKMICHAEL. 503 while the elegant fann-*houses which have been erected convey to the mind of the beholder the pleasing impression of liberality on the part of the landlord, and domestic comfort on that of the tenant About thirty years ago, the proprietor of the barony of Dalhoan commenced feuing on one of his farms in the heart of his estate, with the view of increasing his rental, and raising the value of land in the neighbourhood.* This undertaking happened to be enter- ed upon at a most favourable time, during the war, when manu* factures were in a very flourishing condition. A large influx of wanderers from the other side of the water caused the high rents to be maintained, and houses to be still more in demand. In this way fresh encouragement was given for new buildings. A great proportion of the inhabitants of Crossbill, 800 out of 1000, are eitl^r Irish or of Irish extraction. In many instances, it must be confessed, they exhibit the too common characteristics of their countrymen, indolent, improvident, and passionately ad- dieted to spirits and tobacca At the same time, it is but doing them justice to say, that they have visibly improved in these re« spects. They are beginning to appreciate the excellence of quiet and orderly habits, and can now spend, in healthful exercise and rational amusement, those hours that were previously consumed in degrading sloth or sensuaV indulgence. Not a few take a pride in co- pying the example of their Scottish neighbours, have a wish to pos- sess a suit of better clothes for Sabbath, and to appear like other people at church. Manufactures* — The manufacture of cotton is the staple trade of the place. The large Glasgow warehouses appoint agents here, who give out the cotton to the hand-loom weavers, and are respon- sible for its manufacture into the required fabric. By this means, a large sum of money is transmitted weekly from Glasgow to the coun- try. Children are put to the loom, as early as the age of ten. Wo- men are frequently as expert weavers as men. Females who have not been brought up to weave, make a livelihood by filling bobbins. There is another very extensive branch of industry, — the Ayr- shire needle-work, which is executed in thib village, in a very superior style. It is a valuable means of employment, and furnishes decent support to many respectable females, yet it is to be feared that the * For the origin and early history of Crosshill, and other facts in this account, the writer Is indebted to the MS. of the Rev. Mr Kennedy, late Minister of this parish. Tbrtmgh the kindness of an esteemed friend, Mr Alexander Kennedy, now in Austra- lia, the use of his father's papers was very obligingly allowed. 604 AYRSHIRE. continual confinement, which is indispensable in order to a subsist- ence, will prove much more injurious to health than if the work were harder, and the person more exposed. The proprietor of Cloncaird, forty y^ars ago, made several at- tempts by boring for coal, but without success. This spring, a similar trial was made by the Marquis of Ailsa on the Cassillis lands, but with no better result. Quarries. — There is an excellent freestone quarry at Balwhiro, the property of William Niven, Esq. There are few parishes where there is such an abundant supply of lime. The following is an ab- stract of the number of bolls sold at the respective places in a season. Bolls. Auchalton, 24586 William Niven Esq. Proprietor Clonclaugh, 19694 do. do. Balgreggan, 20498 Sir D. Hunter Blair, Bart. do. Glcnside, 6000 Henry Ritchie, Esq. do. Clonclaugh, although unexhausted, has been closed for several years ; Glenside has never been worked to any extent There is aa- other quarry, Trochain, on the Cloncaird estate, which has been found to contain a substance exceedingly pure and in great abun- dance. Mr Ritchie erected a tile-work in 1832, which has been of great service to the country. The annual supply of tiles has reached the sum of 330,000, which has, nevertheless, been always short of the demand. • V. — Parochial Economy. Kirkmichael is three miles from Maybole and ten from Ayr. The village contains 560 inhabitants ; Crossbill, 1005. A daily post arrives from Maybole at noon, and leaves at five in the afternoon ; - Kirkmichael carrier goes to Ayr twice a week ; Straiten carrier passes the village to Ayr twice a week ; Newton- Stewart carrier to Glasgow once a week ; Crossbill to Glasgow once a week ; Glasgow to Kirkmichael and Patna once a week ; Crossbill to Ayr, two carriers twice a week ; Dailly carrier through Crossbill to Ayr twice a week. There is, besides, a covered cart for pas- sengers on the market days to Ayr. For the admirable state in which the roads of the district are kept, much praise is due to our excellent surveyor, Mr Reid. In Kirkmichael, there are twenty*six miles of turnpike, ten miles of parish roads, and five toll bars. Of this parish Chalmers says, it was called in former times Kirkmichael of Gemilston^ evidently a corruption of Gemmil, which is still a prevailing name in Ayrshire ; and in Latin charters, it was KIRKMICHAEL. 505 described as " Ecclesia Sancti Michaelis de Gemilston. The church was granted to the prior and canons of Whithorn by John de Gemilston, and confirmed to them by Robert I. in May 1325. In James V., the vicarage of Kirkmichael, in the deanery of Carrick, was L. 3, 6s. dd. being a tenth of its estimated value. In 1562, the half of the vicarage was enjoyed by Sir Thomas Montgomery, the vicar of the church, who received from it L. 15 yearly, and L. 5 more as the rent of the glebe-lands and manse. How the other half of the vicarage was disposed of, appeareth not. But the tithes and revenue of Kirkmichael, which belonged to the priory of Whithorn, were leased to Jonet Mure, for the payment of L. 100 a-year. The church of Kirkmichael, with the other property of the priory, were vested in the King by the general annexation act of 1587. The whole was granted by the King In 1606 to the bishops of Galloway. In 1641, it was transferred t^ the Univer- sity of Glasgow^ but it was restored to the same bishop in 1661 ; and it was held by the bishops of that see till the final abolition of Episcopacy in 1689, when the patronage was vested in the King, to whom it now belongs." The church, with its romantic burying-ground, is beautifully si- tuated on the Dyrock bum, and surrounded by a row of old and majestic ash-trees. The position is well chosen, for the. conve- nience of the people generally. The family farthest from church on the southern extremity, is seven miles and a-half distant, and the one on the northern extremity is five miles distant The church was built in 1787, contains accommodation for 556 persons, is a substantial house, and in good repair. A new manse has just been built. It is after the style of the old English manor-house, and is in exact keeping with the charac- ter of the place. It is a happy change from the common manse form, and is equally creditable to the liberal spirit, and the ex- cellent taste of the heritors. The contract price without offices was L. 968, 86., which, considering the nature of the building, is thought exceedingly moderate. The glebe contains 16 acres, and, after a little improvement by draining, may run from L. 2 to L. 3 per acre. The stfpend was last year augmented to 17 chalders, half-meal, half-barley, with L. 10 for communion elements. Ministers of Kirkmichael — The following are the ministers of this parish since the Reformation, — Mr Roger Melville ; Mr Wil- liam Peebles, ordained 1638; (Mr William Cockburn; Mr Wil- 606 AYRSHIRE. liam Irvine, curate during Episoopaey ;) 1692, Mr James Gilchrist; 1711, Mr James Lawrie; 1765, Mr John Ramsay; 1802, Mr David Kennedy ; 1835, Mr John M^Ewen. There are only three sittings or half a pew provided by law for the whole population of CrosshilL To remedy so great an evil, measures have been adopted to erect a new chapel, whidii commenced this summer, and is expected to be opened for public worship in a few months. The two chief proprietors of the village. Sir Charles D. Fergusson, and Mr Niven, have come forward and generous- ly put forth their hands to this good work. At the same time Mr Smellie, an active and talented young preacher, has, for two years, been employed in preparing the field. However deeply the religious and well disposed part of the com- munity felt in the success of this undertaking, their best exertions must have been altogether vain, unless aided by the ready and Christian munificence of one whose professions of attachment to the church harmonize at all times so beautifully with his personal sa- crifices and labours to promote its extension and efficiency. The church looks well, and is a great ornament to the neighbourhood. It will cost from L. 700 to L. 800, and is to contain 460 sittings without a gallery. The great body of the people adhere to the Establishment By a census made in 1836, with a view to answer the queries of the Religious Instruction Commission, it was found that the total in- habitants of the parish amounted to 2856 ; of which number be- longing to the Establishment were 2567; Dissenters, 172; Catho- lics, 117. The average number of communicants is about 650. Education. — There is one parochial school in the parish. The average attendance of pupils runs from 60 to 70. The teacher has the legal accommodation with the maximum salary. The fees average L. 30, but are very ill paid. The usual branches of edu- cation are taught, and at the usual rates. The former proprietor of Crossbill built a large school-house for the benefit of the village. There is a small salary paid by the feuars to the master, amounting at present to L. 3» 10s. The school has lately been connected with the (General Assembly's Scheme. The average attendance is about 70. From the po- verty of the inhabitants, the payment of the school wages is wretched in the extreme. There are, besides, Sabbath schools for children, adults, and KIRKMICUAEL. 507 youDg communicants, both at Kirkmicbael and Crossbill* The attendance at the former may be about 120, at the latter 190* Friendly Societies. — Two friendly societies were established, in the year 1811. They were both founded on the principle of giv- ing 8s. weekly, when the patients were confined to bed, and 4s. when walking about On the death of a member, each surviving member contributes Is. towards defraying the funeral expenses. The age of admission is from the age of sixteen to thirty. In process of time, one of the societies perceived that their allowances were too liberal, and reduced them accordingly — ds. when confin- ed to bed, and 2s. 6d. when walking about ; and, if confined to bed for more than a year, to receive only 2s. 6d., and when walking about 2s. per week. This Society is in a very flourishing state, having about ninety members^ and funds amounting to L. 220. The other society, by keeping too long to its original rules, and admitting members up till the age of forty, was obliged to break up a few months ago. Associations of this kind are of immense advantage in establishing habits of economy, and exciting an ho- nourable feeling of independence. They canno't be too strongly recommended to the young tradesman and labourer. Library* — A parochial library has just been established, which, from the interest taken in its formation, and thegoodjudgment shown in the selection of works, promises to be eminently useful in extend- ing and fostering a taste in the district for wholesome and instruc- tive reading : A committee consisting of 12, with a librarian, are elected annually as trustees and managers for conducting the af- fairs of the library, according to the fundamental rules of the in- stitution. There are from 30 to 40 subscribers. There is no entry money. A penny a week paid quarterly or yearly is the term of admission for each member. Savings Banks. — Two savings banks have been established in the parish ; but it is to be lamented they have not been available in securing those important benefits to the people, which were the object of their institution. Poor, — The number on the poor's roll is 16, who have, ac- cording to their necessities, from 2s. 6d. to 8s. per month. A considerable number, however, although not on the roll, receive assistance pretty regularly, and in various shapes, in coals, cloth- ing, victual, rent, &c. The annual collections at church, amount to about L.40; proclamation and other dues, to L. 10. There are two mortifications for the poor, the one, left in 1678, by one 508 AYRSHIRE. I of the lairds of Kirkmichael, of 1200 merks Scots ; the other by the Rev. James Gilchrist, in 1710, of 1000 merks Scots. These two principals have been mortgaged on the estate of Kirkmichael, and the interest arising therefrom, L. 5, 6s. 8d., is payable to the kirk-sessioQ on demand. Whatever deficiency exists, after these funds are exhausted, the heritors agree to supply by making a voluntary contribution, according to their respective valuations. The whole expense of managing the poor may be set down at L. 97 per annum. This sum, of course, varies with the state of trade, the price of living, the number of orphans, the health of the people, &c. With the native population, there is yet much (although wearing out) of that fine old Scottish feeling that scorns a state of depen- dence, and regards a subsistence from the poor's box as a reproach to themselves and their kindred. But there are not a few, espe^ cially of the manufacturing class, who have no such high-minded sentiments, who are neither very anxious to secure a competence for themselves, nor very moderate in their demands on others. Akhotises 10, — a number unwarrantably large, required neither for the acconmiodation nor the good morals of the community. Milk. — There is a large saw-mill on the Girvan Water, erects ed by the enterprise of Mr John M^Lymont in Balsaggart, and its operations are conducted under the judicious management of Mr James Dunlop. It has brought wood on the adjoining proper- ties to a ready market. Attached to this is a bone-mill, which, from the extended use of this manure, has been no less service- able to the public at large, than it has been convenient to this neighbourhood. There is one lint-mill in the parish.^ The an- nual quantity of flax dressed is 200 stones. There are likewise four corn-mills in the parish. Fuel — Peat is used as fuel only in one &rm in the parish. The distance of the nearest coal-pit is five miles, where a ton of coals or 20 cwt. costs 4s. ; and the price of a cart of coals of five creels, or 12 cwt laid down at Kirkmichael, tolls and cartage, is 4s. 7^. October 1888. PARISH OF NEW CUMNOCK. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR, THE REV. MATTHEW KIRKLAND, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Extent, Boundaries, — The parish of New Cumnock, lying at the south-east extremity of Ayrshire, was separated from Cum- nock in the year 1650. Its length from east to west averages )2 miles, and its breadth from north to south 9 miles. It is bound- ed on the north, by the parishes of Auchinleck, Cumnock, and Ochiltree ; on the west, by Dalmellington ; on the south, by Cars- phairn and Dairy in Galloway ; and on the east, by Penpont, San« quhar, and Kirkconnel in Dumfries-shire. Topographical Appearances* — Its surface is hilly, and towards its southern boundary chiefly mountainous. The valley of the Nith, which stretches from west to east nearly the whole length of the parish, is the lowest ground in it, and is about 500 feet above the level of the sea. The beautiful valley of the Af):on, lying north and south, is about 50 feet higher. The highest mountain, Black- craig, has an elevation of 1600 feet above the valley of the Nith ; the Knipe, to the south of this, 1260 ; and Corsancone, 872. This last hill, from its position, commands a beautiful and extensive view of the surrounding country. Meteorology. — The clouds frequently rest on the tops of the hills, and thick mists often settle in the valleys, so as to appear from the higher grounds like a vast sheet of water. By these, the in- habitants are enabled to prognosticate with great certainty the ap- proach of rain. Thus it has become a proverb, ". If Corsancone puts on his cap, and the Knipe be clear, it will rain within twenty- four hours." This sign, it is said, never fails. The climate, owing to the large extent of mossy and unculti- vated land, and to the marshy nature of the valley of the Nith, is rather moist ; and, consequently, agues and fevers are said, in former times, to have been prevalent diseases. The culture of the land, and the open drains that have been cut along the sides 510 AYRSHIRE. of the pasture-hills, have of late years much improved the climate, so that these diseases have now almost disappeared, and the parish is now remarkably healthy. Hydrography. — Springs, notwithstanding the hilly surface of the parish, are not very numerous ; several of them are strongly impregnated with iron. There are three small lakes in the parish, each about half a mile in circumference. The first, close upon the border of Old Cumnock, is remarkable for emptying its waters in two opposite directions. The other two, in a straight line south, lie at the distance of about a quarter of a mile from each other. They are of no great depth, and possess but little interest, except for the perch and pike with which they abound, the water- fowls which frequent them, and the excellent fields of ice whidli in winter they afford for the sport of curling. The River Nith rises In the south-west extremity of the parish, and, after running for about two miles in a nortiierly direction, turns directly eastward, and, at the foot of Corsancone, frdls into the parish of Kirkconnel, where what is called Nithsdale com. mences. It is about fifteen feet broad, generally shallow and slug- gish, and its colour deeply tinged with moss. It has a course within the parish, of about twelve miles. The Afton, a rapid and beautiful stream, rises at the southern boundary of the parish, and, flowing in a northerly direction, after a course of eight miles, falk into the Nith, at the east side of the village of New Gum- nocL Geology and Mineralogy. — The following account of the geo- logy and mineralogy of New Cimmock has been frimished by a gentleman who has given much attention to the subject, and who has had the best opportunities of prosecuting his inquiries. The parish is a large valley or basin, in which the river Nith has its source. It is joined at the village of New Cunmock by the water of Afton ; and the united streams enter the county of Dumfries, through a narrow ravine at Corsancone-hilL This val- ley is bounded on the south by a ridge of hill, composed of transi- tion-rocks, of considerable altitude, as the Nippes, Blackcraig, &c. which are chiefly graywacke. This ridge of graywacke runs aloi^ the south side of the river Nith. On the east, the valley is bound*' ed by a ridge of volcanic breccia, or tuffa, consisting of large and small rounded balls cemented together, which commence at Cor- sancone, running east into Dumfries-shire, and also forming a cir- cle towards the north, through the upper parts of the parish of 4 J NEW CUMNOCK. 511 Auchinleck. •This basin is nearly isolated^ bemg bounded on the west by a ridge of basaltic hills, which commence at Benbeoch, near Dalmellington,and terminate near Benstone limestone quarry. This ridge appears to run over the coal-formation, a narrow neck of which is seen passing between the basalt of Benbeoch and the greywacke and breccia hills of Meiklehill, &c. into the coal-field of the Doon, near Dalmellington ; and upon the western side of this ridge, at Knockdon, a seam of five feet of anthracite, or blind- coal, is found under the basalt. In the greywacke hills, galena or lead ore is found in veins, and has been wrought to a considerable extent on the Afbon estate ; but the works have been given up many years ago. Several trials have been made for lead in the Nippes. Trials have been made for slate in a dike of schistus, which traverses the Nippes from east to west A dike of porphyry is seen crossing the Afton, near Laight, apd running in the same direction, through the greywacke hills, and crosses the Glasgow road near the county march. This dike is of a reddish colour ; but, when in contact with the breccia rocks of Corsancone, it becomes black, and is used there for road metal. The central parts of this valley are filled up with the coal-for- mation. The dip or inclination of the strata is exceedingly irre- gular, generally dipping from the sides of the hills that surround the valley. The strata are also very much broken and confused, by dikes, slips, and hitches intersecting them in all directions, some- times altering the position of the beds of ooal, lime, and freestone for many yards, and sometimes only a few feet. The general line of dikes is from east to west, and they often change the inclination of the strata. The carboniferous limestone is found in great abundance, all over this parish, cropping out near the foot of the hills on every side of the valley. There are several beds or posts of great thickness. The same bed of limestone-rock, about 12 feet deep, is wrought at Benstone^ Mansfield, and Polquhortor ; accompanied with several beds of shale, containing a considerable portion of lime, called by the vforkevs fahes. Under this post, there are other beds of lime- stone, in smaller seams, as that wrought at Nether Polquhortor and Park. At Lanehead, the limestone rock occurs, consisting of in- numerable beds standing quite on edge. This limestone again oc- curs on edge at Polquheys. The mode of working these quarries is by opencoat, removing the surfece and beds of shale, freestone^ 512 AYRSHIRE. Sec. from the out-crop of the limestone rock, the bas^of ^hich may in general average from 10 to 18 feet deep. The limestone rock is then easily quarried, being in beds of from 1 to 4 feet in thick- ness, and intersected by upright joints. The expense of quarrying may average L. 1, 10s. per 100 bolls of two imperial bushels. All the shells and organic remains usually found in the carbo- niferous limestone, occur in the lime rocks of this parish ; speci- mens ot the C&muaammonishaLYe been found in Mansfield limestone quarry. A bed of shell-marl or limestone about 2-^ feet appears in connexion with the limestone rock at Mansfield House. This bed is again seen at Polquhortor and at Knockburnie, four or five miles above New Cumnock, near Lanehead limestone quarry, which proves the individuality and continuation of the strata, which seem to be in connection with the basalt. Limestone is also wrought at a considerable elevation at Corsancone, where it crops out on the side of the breccia hilb. This rock is about 25 feet^in depth, it is compact, and has the appearance of primitive limestone, and follows the same course as the breccia through the upper part of the parish of Auchinleck. This limestone may be said to be id a solid mass ; it contains no fossil nor organic remains. This may have been originally the carboniferous limestone, but by coming into contact with the volcanic breccia, and reduced to a state of fusion, may have entirely obliterated the organic remains and stra*- tification. The mode of working this rock has been, for many years, by mining. The whole rock, from its compactness, requires to be blasted with powder. This limestone is burnt in draw-kilns, and the lime carried into the parishes of Kirkconnel and Sanquhar, and used by the formers as a manure. About 25,000 bolls of two imperial bushels are sold annually. All the lime quarried in this parish, is burnt at the quarries in draw-kilns, and sold to the far- mers in the neighbouring parishes for a manure. The quantity burnt annually is. Bolls. Bushels. Benstone about 60,000 =s 120,000 5 bolls per cart. Polquhortor 8 or 9, Do. do. Da Nether, 3 or 4> Do. do. Mansfield-Haw, 9000 = 22.000 6 do. do. Do, Glen, 25,000 sr 50,000 5 do. do. Lanehead 8, Total, The carboniferous limestone makes an excellent cement for build- ing, that at Benstone, Mansfield, &c having the quality of bind- ing or setting under water. 3 NEW CUMNOCK. 513 Lime'Kilns. — The lime-kilns in this parish, with the exception of those at Mansfield, are of the same construction as those gene- rally used throughout the country, about 20 or 25 feet deep, 20 feet wide at top, and 2 or 3 feet wide at bottom, with one, two, or three eyes, only large enough to admit a shovel. Those at Mans- field, erected by Sir Charles G. S. Menteath, Bart, of Closeburn, are of a better construction, being about 30 feet deep, 6 feet diame- ter at top, 8 feet at the middle, and 5 feet at the bottom, and lined with brick. The lime in the kiln is supported on movable iron bars, 1 foot apart, placed in front on a cast iron frame, upon which doors are hnng to regulate the draught of air through the kiln. The lime is brought down through the iron bars by a poker upon a grate, from which the lime is filled into carts, and the small lime and ashes fall through this grate into the ash-pit From this construc- tion of a lime-kiln, a great saving of coal is effected, and the lime better burnt. Fire in a lime- kiln having a tendency to rise per- pendicularly, and rather contract than expand at the top, a great quantity of the lime in a wide topped kiln at the sides, is left un- touched by the fire, and consequently much unburnt stone, and waste of coal and labour. . Sandstone or freestone occurs in every part of the parish, gene- rally of a yellowish white colour, and coarse grain irregularly strati- fied. In the lower parts of the valley, the sandstone is more regu- larly stratified, and contains great quantities of fossil impressions. There are several quarries of freestone for building in the parish. Ironstone occurs in bands and balls, in great quantities in the coal formation ; but has never been wrought. Coal. — The coal formation at Mansfieldforms an isolated basin, in the eastern part of the parish, in which six seams of coal have been ascertained, and in whole are about forty feet in thickness. The upper seam is fine cannel-coal, two feet six inches thick ; at five frithoms deeper, thirty-three inches of dross coal; the next seam is the nine feet coal, in the middle of which there are sixteen inches of smith's coal. The twelve feet coal is separated from the nine feet by strata of freestone fahes, which form a wedge between the two coals from north to south, being only a few feet thick at the north point, and upwards of thirty feet, at two hundred yards south. In the centre of the twelve feet seam, there are sixteen in- ches of cannel coaL The next seam, five and a half fathoms deep^ er, is the eleven feet coal, all splint, and a four feet coal has been ascertained to lie under this. In several places, the seams of coal AYR. K k 514 AYRSHIRE. unite and form one entire bed of coal. The cannel coal is much in demand for making gas, and is used at Dumfries and at Ca- trine. The dross coal makes good coke, and is used at Ayr, Kil- marnock, and Catrine foundries. The out-put is about 8000 tons annually, chiefly carried into Dumfries-shire. At Coalburn, a three feet seam of coal is wrought, and another of six feet at Creoch, both on the banks of the Nith above New Cumnock, where several smaller seams occur. Smith's coal, of excellent quality, is wrought at Craigman and Auldna, in the up- per part of the parish ; the seam is about three feet deep. The out-put of these works may be estimated at 3000 tons. At Straid, near the road from Dalmellington to New Cumnock, a seam of cannel coal is wrought about three feet thick, accom- panied by eight or ten inches of dross coal. This cannel coal is much in demand for making gas. It lies very near the grey- wacke,andin the immediate neighbourhood of the Afton lead mines. In the coal formation at Craigman, plumbago or black-lead occurs, and has been wrought for a long period. The plumbago here appears to be formed by basaltic rocks, coming in contact with a seam of six to eight feet of columnar coal. In examining this mine, the whole process of the conversion of the coal into plumbago is evidently from volcanic agency. The basalt, when in a state of fusion, bursting up through the coal metals and mixing with the coal, has charred or dandered the coal, and also con- verted it into plumbago. The seam of coal, when nearly in con* tact with the basalt, is completely charred for ten or twenty yards, in different degrees of hardness, as it approaches nearer the basalt. The plumbago is found in irregular masses, imbedded in the ba- salt, and has often the same columnar structure as the coal. A further proof of the volcanic action is a bed of slate-clay, which forms the roof of the coal, and when in contact with the basalt is raised up unbroken, and converted into a silicious substance, like porcelain jasper; and in the section of the rocks at the entrance into the mine, a piece of this jasper, about two feet long, and six or eight inches thick, h^ sunk down several feet into the basalt, which must have occurred when the basalt was in a state of fusion. SoiL — The soil of New Cumnock, upon the south side of the Nith, is rather of a gravelly nature, formed of the debris of the greywacke hills, &c. Frequently, large boulders of granite and sienite occur in the ground, although none of the hills in the neigh- bourhood are formed of these rocks. The north and west sides are NEW CUMNOCK. 515 generally composed of a clay soil, incumbent upon the freestone of the coal formation. The bottom of this valley through which the Nith runs, has evidently, at an early period, consisted of several lakes both in the upper part of the parish, as at Dalgig, and in the lower, as at and below New CumnocL There are still three small lakes above New Cumnock, the highest of which discharges one half of its waters into the Nith, and the other runs towards Old Cumnock and Ayr. These lakes, in course of time, have been filled up by the debris of the hills being washed down, and the growth of moss, and the lower- ing of the channel of the river. They are now flat meadow lands, having generally a fine alluvial soil, from one foot to ten feet deep, reposing upon peat moss. These meadows are very much ne- glected and covered with stagnant water, the greatest part of the year; and consequently the hay produced is of the coarsest quality. From the extensive exhalation from these swamps, fogs and frost are produced which must be hurtful to the health of the people^ and injurious to the climate and the crops. Improving of Meadow8.-^GreKi improvements have been made upon the meadow land of Mansfield by Sir Charles G. S. Men- teath of Closeburn. The plan adopted in improving these mea- dows, and for the purpose of irrigation so applicable in this dis- trict, has been, after taking two white crops, to throw the ground into beds or ridges with the spade, forty-five feet wide, and one and a half raised from side to centre, the most pointed attention being paid to the level : a drain or furrow, fifteen or eighteen inches deep, is cut between every ridge, which serves all the purpose of drains. In order to apply the water, large feeders, from three to six feet wide, are cut round the head-ridge ; and sifiall feeders are cut on the top of each ridge to communicate with the large or main feeders, about eighteen inches wide at the tiipper, and dimi- nishing towards the lower end of the ridges, to cause the water to overflow of itself, and fall into the furrow. These meadows are sown out with the most approved permanent grasses, generally a great portion of Timothy and Yorkshire fog, with a little rye-grass. In this parish j great extent of meadow land is still in a state of na- ture Without a single drain to carry off the superabundant water. This is by no means a remarkable circumstance, as little attention is paid to the improvement of meadow land in any part of Scotland. Upwards of 150 acres are finished in this way, and a considerably greater extent is in operation. This is the only effectual way of 516 AYRSHIRE. improving very flat meadows and laying them dry, and introducing the system of irrigation, Zoology, — There are scarcely any species of remarkable ani- mals in the parish. Hawks occasionally build their nests on the high rocks near the head of the Afton. Foxes also abound in that district, which are eagerly destroyed by the inhabitants, on account of their ravages among the sheep. Black game are to be found on the hills oh the south side of the Nitb. Grouse and partridges, with pheasants, are to be met with ; but, not being carefully preserved, are not in great abundance. Salmon are found to reach very near the Nith at the spawning season, which is in the month of October. Trout are abundant in the Afton, in the rivulet of the Lane, and in the water of Deucfa, which divides the parish from Galloway. Pike and perch abound in the lakes formerly mentioned. A few years ago, a remarkable swarm of insects, resembling the caterpillar, traversed a great part of the hills on the south side of the parish, proceeding southwards and devouring every green thing in their course. The crops often suffer severely from the ravages of the grub. Botany, — Several beautiful species of fern are found on the banks of the Afton. Some rare species of plants, in particular, the Rhodiola rosea, grow on the Stey Amry, a high rock near the source of that stream. The parish is not well wooded, though it seems remarkably well adapted for the growth of larch and spruce firs. Some larches, planted on the Afton fifty or sixty years ago, have attain- ed a noble size. There are some later plantations than these on the properties of the Marquis of Bute. II. — Civil History. The history of this parish possesses but little public interest The writer is not aware that it has been the scene of any very remark- able events. It would appear that many of the inhabitants suffer- ed for their attachment to Presbyterian principles in the reign of 'Charles 11. Three persons were put to death by the dragoons, who at that time scoured the country, and were buried in a moss at the south-west corner of the parish. A small mausoleum was erected*on the spot, a few years ago, in place of the decayed grave- stone that had been laid over their bodies. The grave was open- ed, and part of their hair and clothes, as well as bones, found in a state of great preservation. 3 NEW CUMNOCK. 517 Land'oumers. — The chief land-owners in the parish are, the Marquis of Bute ; M. T. Carmichael, Esq. of Mains ; Sir Charles Menteath, of Closebum and Mansfield ; D. S. Buchanan, Esq. of Cunninghamhead ; Sir John Cathcart of Carleton and* Water- head ; and Miss Stewart of Afton Lodge. Parochial Registers. — The earliest entry in the parish regis- ters is dated 1709 ; but the register has not been regularly kept, till within these few years. Antiquities. — The few antiquities of the parish are, the site of the Castle of Black Craig, — on the summit of the knoll on which the castle village stands. The fosse of the castle is still very dis- tinct ; but all the stones were removed, about fifty years ago, and employed in the building of houses. This castle was the proper- ty of the Dunbars of Mochrum ; and is said to have been frequent- ed by the renowned Sir William Wallace. There are also the re- mains of an old baronial residence, near the source of the Nith, now the property of Sir John Cathcart. A large number of small coins of Edward I. of England, and Alexander of Scotland, enclosed in a small earthern jar, and in a high state of preservation, were dug up about eight years ago on the farm of Whitehill. They are about the value of 5d. each. Some of them are in the possession of George Ranken, Esq. of Whitehill, the owner of the lands ; the remainder, with the jar in which they were found, are in possession of the labourer who dug them up. A few years ago, an ancient tumulus on the farm of Polquhaise was removed. It was found to consist of stones, intermixed with fragments of human bones ; and in the centre of it, close to the surface of the natural soil, was a sarcophagus of large stones, con- taining fragments of human bones, with a small quantity of black earth. Modem Buildings* — There are two corn-mills in the parish, one at Dalricket, and another at Old Mill. Some time ago, a mill for carding wool was erected by Mr Hunter, at Mansfield village,' where most of the home-spun wool is carded. In the year 1832, an elegant new church was erected volunta- rily by the heritors, owing to the inadequacy of the old place of worship, to afford accommodation to the increased population. A large substantial parochial sch9ol-house was built in the course of last summer, capable of accommodating from 150 to 200 scholars. 518 AYRSHIBE. III. — Population. The earliest authentic account of the population is contained in a Statistical Account of Ayrshire, published in 1791, from which it ap- pears that, in 1755, there were 1497 inhabitants, and in 1790 only 1200. This diminution seems to be accounted for by the fact, that during the latter period, considerable numbers of the cottars repair- ed to the manufacturing districts. For it appears from Mr Ains- lie's tables, that during that period the population in all the ma- nufacturing villages of the county increased, while it proportion- ably diminished in the rural districts. Agriculture had not then made such improvement, as to counterbalance the influence of the manufacturers. The following table exhibits the state of the po- pulation in 1831. Persons under 15 years uf age, 854 « from 15 to 30, . 672 do to 50, . d06 50 to 70, . 197 . 70 to 90, 61 upwards of 90, 4 Total population, — - 2184 Of this total, there reside in the villages 764 ; in the country 1420. Unmarried men above 50, 23 women above 45. > 61 Total females in the parish, 1074 Total males do. - 1110 Excess of males, - 36 Average number of births annually, « 86 marriages, . 21 deaths, 42 None of the large proprietors of land reside in the parish. There are five resident heritors, all of them having land yielding a larger rental than L. 50. The mhabitants are, in general, of a clear ruddy complexion, of strong, robust, and active person ; for which the salubrity of the air, and their pastoral and agricultural occupations, sufficiently accounts There is only one instance of insanity ; two fatuous, and no deaf and dumb person in the parish. IV. — Industry. There are no manufactures in the parish, and the people are almost wholly employed in agricultural pursuits. Wages. — The average rate of labourers wages is 10s. per weeL Agriculture. — The following table presents an accurate view of the agricultural state of the parish in 1831 : — Acres cultivated or occasionally in tillage, - - 9265 Acres not cultivated that might be so, - - 2604 Acres under wood, natural and planted, • - 267 Acres in moss and mountains, . • - 56964 Acres first cultivated during the last twenty years, - 5970 Total acres in the parish, — ^^ 75090 L. 11660 2:101 ^ 2940 2500 7536 NEW CUMNOCK. 519 Rent — The average rent for the grazing of an ox or cow is from L. 3 to L. 4 ; for a ewe or full-grown sheep, Ss. 6d. Produce. — The annual average amount of raw produce, as near- ly as can be ascertained, is exhibited in the following table : — Oats, bmrley, and wheat. Potatoes and turnips, ' Hay, natural and cultivated, Wood, thinnings and felled trees, Coals, lime, freestone, and lead. Average value of wool and skins. Butter, cheese, and eggs. Total value, L. 80873 A large amount of waste land has been reclaimed, within the last fifteen or twenty years. During the same period, the system of draining has been extensively adopted, and has contributed much both to the fertility of the land and salubrity of the climate. The system of irrigation has been acted upon on a lai^e scale by Sir Charles Menteath, of Closeburn and Mansfield ; and the success attending this mode of improvement has been fully attested by the splendid crops raised on his lands along the banks of the Nith. By paring and burning the surface during the summer of the first year, ploughing the land in the autumn, laying lime upon the land so ploughed to the amount of 200 imperial bushels in the next spring, and sowing out the land with grass seeds, Yorkshire fog, at the rate of five bushels to the Scotch acre, in the month of July, this mode of improvement of dry moor-land with a sandy subsoil has been successfully practised upon the estate of Close- burn, in Dumfries-shire, and no heather appears after the lapse of twenty years. Though this mode has been employed upon dry moors with an open subsoil by Sir C. G. S. Menteath, he does not recom- mend the practice for the cold subsoiled moors of Ayrshire, as rushes are sure to follow the ploughing of these moors, which renders it necessary again to plough them, after being laid down to grass, for three or four years, in order to kill the rushes. Lime to the amount of 400 bushels per acre upon the surface, with open sheep drains, to remain in pasture, will be found a more profitable improvement W. Hyslop, Esq. of Bank and Blackcraig, also deserves ho- nourable notice as a spirited enterprising agriculturist. In Octo- ber last, he received the premium for the best managed farm in the district of Kyle. Leoies. — The leases vary from fifteen to nineteen years, and bind the farmers to the most improved method of husbandry. They 520 ATBSHIRE. require, among other condition?, a regular rotation of different kinds of crops, so far as the soil will admit of it. Live-Stock* — The following table exhibits the amount of stock : Sheep, - 20050 / • Y^rgcows. ■ . i?^S Total cow.,.3484. Horses, - 372 V. — Parochial Economy. MarkeUTovm. — There is no market- town in the parish. The nearest is Old Cumnock, at the distance of five miles. Villages. — In the parish, there are three villages, of which the population in 1831 was as follows : — New Cumnock, - 161 Afton Bridgend, - 242 Pathhead, - - 961 Total village population, 764 There is one turnpike road in the parish, and sevei^l parish roads in good repair. On the public road, there passes daily a coach from Glasgow to Cariisle, and from Carlisle to Glasgow. The roads in the parish of New Cunmock were not well attend- ed to, more particularly on the east side of the Nith, till the estate of Mansfield was purchased by Sir G. Stuart Menteath, when, in order that coal and lime should find a market in the county of Dumfries, a rail-road of inch bar-iron, of nearly three miles in length, was laid down to the boundary of the counties of Dumfries and Ayr. The coal was carried in rail-road waggons, each contain- ing one ton, and one horse draws four waggons. Upon arriving at the summit level of the counties, these waggons are emptied into large waggons of the common construction of road waggons, and the remainder of the road is a continual descent of nearly four miles, except in crossing three ravines, which occasioned inclined planes of one foot of rise in thirty feet. The difficulty of ascending these inclined planes, is surmounted by laying down stone tracks for the wheels ; upon which sheet iron, six inches wide, and a quarter of an inch thick, is nailed down, which enables a horse to draw three tons of coal up these ascents — a plan which Sir C. S. Menteath has frequently recommended upon the roads throughout Great Bri* tain about twenty-fi[ve years ago, and now in progress of adoption on the Holyhead road to London, by order of Sir Henry PamelL The rail-road for ordinary roads should be laid down with cast iron, similar to the wheel-tract for carts in Glasgow ; upon which one horse can draw three tons upon an ascent of one foot in every fifteen feet. It may be said this cannot be done for a long ascent ; NEW CUMNOCK. 621 but this is never necessary, as a short distance might be made level occasionally in every long ascent. Unless Sir C. S. Menteath had adopted the friction brake in common use for heavy carriages in Belgium, no horse could take down three ton weight with the drag in common use. This brake is applied to the two hind wheels of a waggon by means of a screw, which presses a plank of wood against the wheels of the waggon, and enables the carter to apply as much friction as is necessary to retard the wheels without stop- ping or dragging them. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated between the villages of New Cumnock and Afton Bridgend, and, though not precisely in the centre of the parish, occupies a very eligible situa- tion for the great bulk of the population. It was built about five years ago, is in perfect repair, and is capable of accommodating with ease 1000 sitters. The free sittings are about 100. The precise date of the erection of the manse, I have not been able to ascertain ; an addition to it was built, about forty years ago. It is in an indifferent state of repair. The glebe consist&of eleven acres, and may be worth annually from L. 20 to L. 30. The sti- pend is L. 177, paid in money. There is a small meeting-house in the parish, in connection with the Reformed Presbyterians. They have no minister, and I be- lieve have never had one ; but are occasionally supplied with ser- mon by preachers of that denomination, or by neighbouring mi- nisters. The following table shews the relative numbers of dissenters and churchmen in 1831: — Individuals belonging to Established Church, 1752 ; Seceders of various denominations, 299 ; Re- formed Presbyterians, 117^ The average number of communi- cants in the parish church, may be stated at 600. The number on the communicants' roll is considerably larger. The people, con- sidering the wide surface over which they are scattered, and the consequent distance of many of them from the church, are very regular in their attendance on religious ordinances. Education. — There are, at present, five schools in the parish, besides the parish schooL Some of these, however, are attended by a very small number of scholars, and their continuance is very precarious. The following table exhibits the various branches taught in the parochial school, the rate of wages, and their annual amount : English reading per quarter, 2s. 6d. ; writing additional, 3s. ; arithmetic do. 3s. 6d. : English grammar, do. 4s. ; geography 522 AYRSHIRE. and book-keeping, 5s. ; Latin and mensuration, each 5s. ; school- master's salary, the maximum, L. 33 ; average number of scholars at parish school, 100. Fees actually paid to the teacher may be from L. 40 to L. 50 annually. The private schools may be attended by about 100. There are several Sabbath schools, having about 200 scholars from seven to fourteen years of age. Library. — There is one circulating library, which was instituted about nine years ago, and consists of upwards of 700 volumes of useful knowledge. There is, also, a smaJl library of about 300 vo- lumes, entirely religious, for the benefit of a catechumen's class, taught by the minister on the Sabbath evenings. Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid, during the last two years, was 12. Two received per month 5s.; four, 4s. ; three, 6s. ; one, 16s. ; one, Ss. 6d. ; one, 3s. The whole of the above expenditure is defrayed by the collec- tions at the church doors, which amount on an average to L. 36 annually, by the receipts from mortcloths, and by the interest of L. 100 at 5 per cent, bequeathed to the poor by a native of the parish. The poor of the parish in general manifest a laud- able anxiety to make every effort for their own maintenance. It is seldom that any application is made for relief from the poor's funds, except in cases of real destitution. Fairs. — There is a fair held annually in the parish, on the Thurs- day preceding Whitsunday; at which a considerable number of cattle are exposed to sale. Ale-hottses* — There are 14 ale-houses at present in the parish. November 1838. PARISH OF DREGHORN. PRESBYTERY OF IRVINE, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JOHN CAMPBELL JAMIESON, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name J Extent^ Boundaries. — The parish of Dreghorn, in Cun- ninghamey extends in a narrow stripe from the Water of Irvine on the south, where it joins Dundonald, to the parish of Fenwick, on the north-east ; and is bounded on the east by the Gawreer Bum, which divides it from Kilmaurs, and by the Annock Water on the west, that separates it from the parishes of Irvine and Stewarton. Its extent is nearly 8 miles from south-west to north- east, and from three-quarters of a mile to two miles in breadth. Its surface amounts to 4477 acres, of which, by a calculation made in 1820, there were in tillage, 1490 acres; cultivated grass land, 2774 acres; woods and gardens, 122 acres; and roads, 61 acres. This parish, which is a dead fiat towards the sea, from which it is only two miles distant, and not much in that quarter above its level, rises in gently undulatmg hills towards the east and north- east ; and is throughout of very considerable beauty, particularly the section of it that runs along the Annock Water. It is well en- closed and planted. The soil in the south-eastern district of it is a deep rich loam, yielding remarkably good crops. Towards the north-east, it is nearly of the same character, and also productive. To the sduth-west, the land varies in nature and quality, running in patches from loam to gravel. The coal formation is exhibited here as in the neighbouring parishes ; but there is nothing remark- able in Dreghom in a geological point of view. IL — Civil History. The whole of the parish was formerly the property of the De Morvilles, who were constables of Scotland and Lords of ||||iinning- hame, the first of whom seems to have settled in this country as early as the time of Alexander I., and to have had very extensive possessions in it. The property of this family passed by the heiress of William de Morville to Ronald, Liord of Galloway, whose son 524 AYRSHIRE. Alan, Constable of Scotland, and Lord of Galloway and Cun- ninghame, had a daughter, Helen, who, about the year 1233, mar- ried Roger de Quincy, Earl of Winchester, who, in her right, be- came Constable of Scotland, and proprietor of the De Morville estates. He died in ] 264, leaving by this marriage three daughters, one of whom, Margaret, was married to William de Ferrars, and another £la, to Alan de la Zuche, who received by them very ex- tensive and valuable possessions in Cunninghame, of which the lands of the parish of Dreghorn formed a part, and which they held pro indiviso. The present Marquis of Townshend is the lineal descendant of William de Ferrani, and Alan de la Zuche was the ancestor of the Lords Ashby of Ashby de la Zuche, in Leicestershire. The property of William de Ferrars and Alan de la Zuche was forfeited by Robert the Bruce, in consequence of their adherence to the party of John Baliol, their kinsman. The barony of Dreghorn was conferred by him on one of the Bonkill family. Sir Alan Stewart, who fell at the battle of Hallidown Hill in 1388, in the hands of whose descendants, who were afterwards Earls of Damley and Lennox, it continued till 1520, when it became the property of Hugh, 6rst Earl of Eglinton, in whose family it still continues. The barony of Peirceton became the property of Sir James Stewart, brother of Alan, and ancestor of the Stewarts of Lorn, Innermeath, Athole, and Grantully. His son having died without male issue, the estate of Peirceton passed by his daughter into the hands of Sir William Douglas, whose youngest daughter married, in 1390, Robert Barclay, member of a family of great power and influence at- that time, in the west of Scotland, who became in her right Baron of Peirceton and Warrick-hill. This family, now re- presented by Sir Robert Barclay of Ivy Cottage Middlesex, lived at Peirceton in considerable splendour for 300 years. They alie- nated the property in 1720, to Mr M*Credie, whose great-grand- daughter, married to Mr P. B. Mure, Advocate, now possesses it.* The manner in which the other lands in the parish passed down to the present proprietors is not so easily traced. Mansion^Houses. — Some of the proprietors in this parish have ^ The ippount of the ancient state of tlie parish is drawn from the work of the late Mr George Robertson, entitled Topi^raphical Description ofAyrthire* In oorrobo* ration of his statement, that the parish formerly belonged to the De Morvilles, there is a large mound of earth, apparently artificial, on the north side of the river, near the ford in the water of Irvine, on the line of road from Dreghorn to Dundonald, which is called Maid MorviUe*t Mounts and which is said by tradition to be the place where a lady of the bouse of De Morritle, who was drowned in passing the ibrd, was buried« DBEGHORN. 525 mansion-houses built on the banks of the Annock Water, and pleasantly situated. Of these the most delightful residence is that of Annock Lodge, belonging to Mrs M ontgomerie, widow of Wil- liam Montgomerie, Esq. brother of the late Earl of Eglinton. It is truly Arcadian in its character. The house is built on the south side of the Annock, is shut in behind by a high wooded bank, and overlooks a plain of the richest verdure, stretching out in front as far as the eye can reach, and flanked on both sides with gently rising hills partially covered with wood. The other residences in the pa- rish are Peirceton, belonging to Mr Mure M'Credie; Righouse, a ferme orn^e, the property of Colonel FuUarton of Fullarton ; Cunninghamhead, possessed by Mr Snodgrass Buchanan; and Warrickhill by Mr M*Dougal Ralston; IIL — Population. The population of the parish, according to the census 1831, amounted to 888 persons, of whom 419 were males and 469 fe- males. All these persons were engaged in agricultural pursuits, with the exception of two individuals employed as manufacturers, 34 as retail traders and handicraftsmen, and 8 proprietors and pro- fessional men. It has since been nearly stationary. Number of illegitimate births during the last three years, 9. Character and Habits of the People. — The people of this parish seem to be of sober and industrious habits. They possess to a limit- ed extent the means of improvement, as the inhabitants of all coun- try parishes must do ; since they enjoy none of the advantages of literary societies, libraries, reading-rooms, and close and frequent intercourse with each other, which are so easily obtained in towns. They, however, possess the superior advantages of religious habits and uncontaminated morals, which are so easily destroyed where there is a purely urban population. It has been remarked, that a clannish feeling still exists in this parish, which unites the people in strong bonds of attachment to each other.* IV. — Industry. It is estimated that two -thirds of the soil of this parish consist of a deep loam, resting upon a retentive subsoil. The land of this character was originally cold and wet, but has of late years * In reference to what is here stated, the following anecdote is told : A good wo- man of Dreghorn, who had lost her husband, not seeming very disconsolate in her state of bereavement, was remonstrated with by her neighbour on her apparent hard- ness of heart, and want of sensibliity. She pleaded guilty to the charge, but excused herself by saying, ^< Its true, Janet, am no so muckle overcome as 1 ought to be; but you see John, puir man, was no o* our parish," 526 AYRSHIRE. been ameliorated by draining, which has been much resorted to by the fanner, who employs for this purpose tiles made at tile* works in the parish. Affriailiure.^^The rotation -of crops upon this species of land, is based on the old system of husbandry : 1st and 2d year, oats ; 3d ryegrass, followed by five years pasture. Where this system is pursued, the fanners have large dairies, and make the kind of cheese generally known by the name of Dunlop cheese. HuAandry. — The portion of the land in the parish that is con- tiguous to the sea is a free light soil resting upon an open gravelly subsoil. The general rotation of crops in this part, is a six*conrse shift, 1st year, oats ; 2d, potatoes or turnips ; Sd, wheat or barley ; 4th, clover and ryegrass; 5th and 6th, pasture. The turnips raised on the farms here are used for fattening cattle and sheep. The for- mers have large dairies. Butter is made by them, and milk dis- posed of in the neighbourmg town of Irvine. The farms vary in extent from 100 to 200 acres, and are laid out in fields enclosed with beech and thorn-hedges. The fields differ in size finom 10 to 20 acres. The farm-houses are remarkably good in the south part of the parish ; some of them of two stories, and extremely comfortable and commodious. The spirit of agricultural improve- ment, which is so manifest throughout Scotland, has extended to this parish. Rent of Land. — The land is in value from L. 1, lOs. to L. 3 per acre, and is held on leases of nineteen years. Live Stack. — The cows on the ferms are of the Ayrshire breed. The sheep black-faced and Cheviots, with a few Southdowns. Mines. — Coal is supposed to be abundant in this district towards the sea, but has not been extensively wrought Twelve thousand tons were formerly put out yearly, from mines which were shut up from want of capital in the lessee. A new pit has just been open- ed under better auspices, and promises well. Freestone of excel- lent quality is found, and lime is quarried at the north-east extre- mity of the parish. V. — Parochial Economy. Village. — The village of Dreghorn, which lies on the road from Kilmarnock to Irvine, and two miles distant from the last mentioned town, is pleasantly situate on the first gentle acclivity towards the sea, and the climate is very salubrious, the prevailing winds being from the west and south-west, and no marshes or source of miasmata in the neighbourhood. The houses are old^ r DUEOHORN. 627 and run in irregular lines along the highway, and being interspersed with old trees, and neatly kept and white-washed, have a rery rural appearance. The village contains 277 inhabitants, — the male part of whom, with the exception of a few mechanics who find employ- ment among the neighbouring farmers, are occupied in agricultu- ral labour. Ecclesiastical State, — Before the Reformation, this parish eccle- siastically belonged to the Tyronenses monks at Kilwinning, and was united in 1688 to that of Peirceton, regarding which union nothing is known with certainty, — the portion of the parish record which might throw light upon it having been accidentally or surrep- titiously removed. The present church, built about fifty years ago, which is situate in the village at the south extremity of the parish, is a very simple and rather beautiful building, of an octagonal form, and can accommodate about 427 persons. The average at- tendance at church is in summer 200, and in winter 130 persons. The inhabitants who reside in the immediate vicinity appear pretty regularly there, and the distant population frequent the churches which lie more contiguous, and are more accessible to them. The number of families in the parish attending the Established Church is 110: of families attending the chapels of Dissenters and Seceders, 31. The manse is a very good house, built about the same time as the church. The income of the clergyman is 16 chalders of grain. He possesses a glebe of remarkably good land, in extent about 4| acres. Education. — The parochial school in the village is attended by 100 children, who are carefully instructed in the usual branches of education, at the rate of from 3s. to 5s. per quarter. The sa- lary of the schoolmaster is L. 30, and the whole emoluments of his situation amount to Li. 100 per annum. A school partially endowed is also kept in the centre of the pa- rish, and is attended by 40 children. Poor, — There are few paupers in this parish. Their number is on an average 15, and their monthly allowance from the heritors and kirk-session, 4s. The amount of parish collections for the poor is on an average L. 22, lis. : of legal assessments, L. 42, 10s. ^&-Aottt««.— There are 5 ale-houses in the parish ; their efiect on the morals of the inhabitants does not appear to be more detri* mental than in other places. Nwember 183a PARISH OF COLMONELL. PRESBYTERY OF STRANRAER, SYNOD OF GALLOWAY, THE REV. THOMAS BLAIR, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name — Boundaries. — It cannot be ascertained how this parish received its present name. Some derive it from St Columba, others from the Latin word Columba^ a pigeon, because the woods abound with wood-pigeons. Craigneil, a place nearly opposite the village, signifies in Gaelic the lime-rock, and from this it has been conjectured by some that Colmonell or Colmoneil may hate reference to the natural appearance of the district— the parish abounding in limestone. Its greatest length is about 19^ miles, and its greatest breadth 7. The superficial cpntents may be esti- mated at 56,800 acres. It is bounded on the west, by the parish of Ballantrae ; on the east, by Girvan and Bar ; on the south, by Minnigaff, Penningham, and Kirkcowan ; and on the north, by the Frith of Clyde, Topographical Appearances* — The holms on the banks of the Stinchar, Dhuisk, and Lendal are of a rich alluvial soil, and bear excellent crops of wheat, barley, oats, &c. The declivities on the banks of these streams are beautifully clothed with a mixture of oak, ask, elm, larch, alder, and birch ; and in many places are suffi- ciently gentle to admit of cultivation. The higher grounds in some places are of a cold stiff clayey nature, with gravelly bottom, but for the most part moorland, and where the attempt has been made, they are brought with great difficulty into cultivation. They are fitter for sheep-farming than pasture. The hills which frame the valleys are of no great elevation. Their greatest height is about 700 feet above the level of the sea ; and on each side of the Stin- char, they are generally composed of mountain limestone. Hydrography. — Stinchar is the most considerable and beautiful river in the parish. It has its source in the parish of Bar, and on entering this, winds its clear waters in a westerly direction through it for nearly nine miles. In its course, it is joined by the COLMONELL. 529 Dhuisk, or Black-water, another large stream, and crossed by three stone and the same number of wooden bridges. The old- est stone bridge, and at that time the only one between this dis- trict and Galloway, was built in 1731. It fell at 6rst, and the contractors were assisted in the second erection by collections made in the parish churches throughout Ayrshire and Galloway. There are also several fresh water lochs in the parish. The larg- est, and most beautiful and romantic, are Loch Dornal and Lioch Mabeiry. The latter discharges itself by the river Bladenoch in* to the sea at Wigton. II. — Civil History. Heritors. — There are twenty land-owners. The property of the Duchess de Coigny is of the highest valuation. Parochial Registers, — The register of births commences in 1759, and there are no sessional records of older date than 1786. Antiquities, — There are still remaining the ruins of Knockdaw, Carleton, Craigneil, Kirkhill, Penwherry, and Knockdolian Cas- tles. Craigneil in particular is a 6ne ruin. It is said to have been built in the thirteenth century, and to have been one of the hiding- places of King Robert the Bruce, during his wanderings in Ayrshire and Galloway. Elevated on a rock of mountain limestone, it com- mands a view of the whole valley of Stinchar from Penmore to Knockdolian. It belongs to the Most Noble the Marquis of Ailsa, and in feudal times was a prison and place of execution. Not less interesting are the graves of three martyrs who, in the times of persecution, resisted unto blood. The following inscription on the head-stone of one of them, and recorded in the Cloud of Witnesses, may have suggested the name of Mucklewrath, the raving enthusiast in old Mortality. " I, Mathew M'Ur&itb, in parish of Colmonell, By bloody Claverhouse I fell, Who did command that I should die, For owning Covenanted presbytry, My blood a witness still doth stand Gainst all defections in this land.** Modem Buildings, — The mansion houses of Penmore, Dalger- rock and Knockdolian, though built more than .a hundred years ago, are still inhabited. — Ballochmorie, the seat of W. Macadam, Esq. grandson of the celebrated road-impri}ver, was built in 1833. The grounds surrounding it are laid out with great taste, and when the plantations shall have grown up, the mansion itself will be as comfortable as it is elegant. R. Waron, Esq. of MayBeld, a spirited proprietor, is just now erecting a spacious dwelling on AYB. L ] 530 AYRSHIRE. * his property at Drumlamford. This building when completed will greatly enliven that hitherto dreary and desolate tract of country. III. — Population. Population in 1801, . 1306 1821, . 1981 1831. - 2213 There have been 12 illegitimate births during the last three years. The number is on the decline ; and there has been a considera- ble improvement of morals in this respect. Instances of this kind have of late years been generally followed by marriage. The greater part of the population is engaged in agriculture. The rest are fishers, day-labourers, and country artisans. IV. — Industry. Agriculturen — Under the plough, - - 3000 acres Moor and pasture land, ... 51000 Natural wood and plantations, • - 800 Meadows, .... 2000 Husbandry, — It is difficult to estimate the amount and value of the raw produce of the parish, from the unwillingness of some to give the necessary information. As far as it could be ascertained, it is as follows : Oat.s, 6000 bolls at 17s. per boU, L.5100 Wheat, 2000 do. 248. do. 2400 Barley, 700 do. 20s. do. 700 PoUtoes, 9000 do. 8s. do. 3600 Turnips, 200acre8at L. 8 per acre, 2400 Rye-grass, 400 do 200 stones do. 2000 L. 16200 Agriculture is as well understood, and practised with as much success here, as in the other districts of the country. The lower lands on Dhuisk, Lendal, and Stinchar are in general well enclosed and subdivided. The usual rotation adopted is a five-shift, consist- ing of green crop, barley or wheat, sown down with grass, the grass cut the first, and pastured the second year, and oats. The abundance of sea weed, and lime, and of late, the introduction of bone manure, have contributed greatly to the improvement of the soil ; and the towns of Girvan, Ayr, Kilmarnock, Glasgow, and Liverpool, af- ford a ready and excellent market for every article of produce. Live Stock, Cunningham breed of cattle of all ages, - 500 Galloway do. . 1500 Black-faced sheep, - • - 9000 Leicester and Cheviot do. - - 200 Horses, ..... 250 Swine, .... aOO Goats, ..... GO COLMONELL. 631 Of late years, the produce of the dairy has been aii object of considerable importance. The Cunningham breed of cattle have in consequence greatly increased, and much attention has been paid to their improvement The average quantity of cheese made in the parish may be about 3600 stones per annum, which at last year's price of 8s. per stone, amounts to L. 1400. On the higher lands, the care of black-faced sheep and Galloways is still the principal object of the farmer. About 200 stones white, and 1000 laid wool are disposed of annually. Last year, the white sold at Ids. and the laid at 9s. per stone. The farmers, for the most part, rear the Galloways, and after feeding them for two or three years, sell them to cattle-dealers from the south. Fisheries. — The coast abounds in fish of various kinds, such as cod, whitings, haddock, turbot, skate, herrings. The fishing of lobsters has of late become a lucrative employment to many fami- lies. They carry them or forward them by steam-boats to Dub- lin, where they find a ready market, and sometimes sell them so high as two guineas a dozen. The Stinchar also abounds with salmon at certain seasons of the year. There are eight or nine salmon-pools, the rental of which may be L. 30 per annum. Rate of Wages. — Females get from L. 5 to L. 6, aud men from L. 12 to L. 14 per annum. Day-labourers, without victuals, have Is. 4d. and Is. 6d. per day; women, 9d. ; masons and carpenters, 2s. and 2s. 6d. V. — Parochial Economy. Villages. — The village of Colnionell, merely a row of thatched houses a few years ago, has been almost rebuilt. The houses now, with a few exceptions, are slated, clean-looking, and harmonize well with the surrounding scenery. It has a post-ofiice, and, since the pas- singof the Reform Bill, it has been appointed one of the polling sta- tions of the county. Four fairs are held annually in it, on the first Mondays O. S. of February, May, August, and November. It contains 300 inhabitants. Barhill, on Dhuisk, has lately sprung in- to existence. ' It is the only resting-place for the traveller between Newton- Stewart and Girvan. Three cattle-markets are held there every year, on the fourth Fridays of April, September, and Oc- tober. Roads* — There are two roads between Girvan and Ballantrae. One, the great road to Ireland, sweeps along the coast, having on one side the rocky shore and majestic ocean, and on the other the verdant hills of Carleton and Bennan. The Irish mail passes this 532 AYRSHIBE. way. The second, inland, keeps along the banks of the Stincbar, where its windings amid the most picturesque scenery, and the beautiful hill of Knockdolian, present a variety of enchanting pic- tures to the eye. A third, traversed by the mail from the south, has opened up the whole of that wild district which lies between Barhill and Newton- Stewart, and contributed greatly to its im- provement. Ecclesiastical State. — The present church was built in 1772, and seated anew in 1882. It contains 500 sittings, and is very inconveniently placed at one extremity of the parish. Several families are sixteen miles distant from it. It cannot nearly ac- commodate the people. There are 30 free sittings in it, and 460 communicants ; 350 families belong to the Establishment. ' There is also a chapel in which the parish minister officiates every fourth Sabbath during ten months of the year. It is eight miles distant from the parish church. Religious instruction has been gratuitously afforded the inhabitants there, more than eighty years. The Dissenters in the parish, about thirty years ago, as- sisted in repairing the chapel, and since that time have had the use of it in the absence of the parish minister. An addition was built to it in 1833; it now accommodates 300 sitters. The manse was built in 1822, and the offices thirty years ago. There are 7 acres of glebe, 5 arable and 2 meadow, valued at L. 15 per annum. The stipend is 16 chalders of victual, half meal, half barley, and L. 10 for communion elements. Dissenters, — There are two Dissenting congregations in the parish,— one of Reformed Pesbyterians, and another of Original Seceders. A few belong to the United Secession church, and we have about forty Roman Catholics. But four-fifths of the whole population are members of the Establishment 5cAoob.-— There are six schools, the parochial, and five supported by voluntary contribution or school fees. The parochial schoolmas- ter has the maximum salary and legal accommodation. The school fees amount to L. 20 per annum. He also receives a half yearns rent of L. 21, 15s. from the farm of Little Dangart, for teaching six poor boys to read English. The other half year's rent goes to the maintenance and better clothing of the boys. This morti- fication was left about seventy years ago by Dr Kennedy, a native of the parish. Two of the private schools are taught summer and winter, and the master of one of them, in addition to the wages, gets bed, board, and washing, and resides with the parents of the COLMONELL. 533 children in turn. Dr Hamilton of Kildonan, and the Trustees of the late Sir W. Fettes, have given L. 15 per annum to the other; and, as many poor children receive their education gratis on this ac- count, it is hoped they will continue the contribution. The other three private schools are on the teachers' own adventure. The number of scholars attending the six schools averages during sum- mer 110, during winter 250 ; and the expense of education is as fol- lows: — reading per quarter, 3s.; reading, writing, arithmetic, do. 4s. 6d. ; Latin and Greek, 6s. The people generally can read and write, and are by no means averse to the education of their children. On the contrary, all seem anxious to have them taught to read the Bible, and give them the blessings of sacred and useful knowledge. Poor and Parochial Funds. — Twenty-four persons receive pa- rochial aid. The funds for their support and expenses of manage- ment are derived fipom the following sources. Mortcloth per annum, L. 3; donations from heritors do. L. 20; fines do. L. 1; collections at church door do. L. 30; proclamations, L. 5. Inns. — There are two inns, and seven public-houses ; yet intem- perance is not the besetting sin of the people. This disproportion may be ascribed in a great measure to the number of fairs held annually in the parish, and the public roads that intersect it. Fuel — Many attempts have been made to discover coal, but without effect Coals are generally used in the lower, and peats in the higher districts. The coals brought from Bargany and Dul- quharran cost the villagers 10s. a cart The cart contains 12 cwt Peats are sold at 3s. a cart. Lime-kilns, — Five are kept going during the summer months, and afford employment to many labourers. They burn about 20,000 bolls of lime per annum. Miscellaneous Observations. The population has been nearly doubled within the last thirty years. This rapid increase is mainly attributable to the excellent roads that divide the parish in every direction. The estate of Kildonan that, about twenty-five years ago, was almost wholly covered with heath, is now thickly inhabited, and the soil has been rendered fit to bear the most luxurious crops. Many small farmers are located on it, who rent from forty to fifty acres. Great attention has been paid to the sheep-stocL On the more sheltered farms, it has been much improved by a cross with the Leicester and Cheviot-ram, thus producing a larger animal, and shorter and finer 534 AYRSHIRE. wool. Care in the selection of stock, and a more skilful method of management, have been displayed. Among other things which distinguish the present from the past, the pheasant is occasionally seen in the woods that skirt the Stinchar. Numerous covies of black game are also met with on the moor-edges, while grouse, the favourite of the sportsman, is rapidly disappearing. The newly built farm-houses are of a much better description than those of earlier date. They are almost all slated, and not a few have an inclosure in front, ornamented with rose-bushes and other shrubs and flowers. The farmer himself has shared in the general improvement. The epithet " slovenly" is less ap- plicable to him, and at ^' kirk and market" the outer man, at least, shows a decided improvement. The voice of praise, indeed, is not so often heard in their dwellings, and family-worship is greatly neglected ; but still the church is well attended, and the people are moral and industrious. Intemperance appears to be on the decline. The long and deep carousings, so common some years ago, at buying and selling, are seldom heard of. A greater degree of decency is observed at funerals, and the service which, in some instances in olden times, amounted to fourteen rounds of spirits and wine, has been reduced to three. Religious animosities have ceased. On the whole, were it nof for the heart- burnings, and levelling spirit produced by the political discus- sions of the day, the inhabitants of this parish would be contented and happy. October 1888. PARISH OF KILMARNOCK. PRESBYTERY OF IRVINE, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. REV. JAMES M'KINLAY, D. D.) |. . , ^, ^ , ) REV. DAVID STRONG, j ^^'^'^ ^''^^^'^^ MINISTERS. REV. ANDREW HAMILTON, High Church, ) L — Topography and Natural History. * Name* — The name Kilmarnock evidently means the cell of Marnock, who is said to have been a bishop or confessor in Scot* land in the beginning of the fourth century ; and whose fame as a saint must have been widelv extended, as Kilmaronock in Dumbar- tonshire, Inch Marnock in Loch Lomond, and Inch Marnock ad- jacent to Bute, bear record. Extent, Sfc. — The parish is about 9 miles in extreme length, and 4 in breadth ; and the number of superficial acres is 8340. It is bounded on the east, by Loudoun ; on the north and west, by Fen- wick and Kilfnaurs ; and on the south, by the river Irvine, which separates the presbyteries of Ayr and Irvine, and divides the dis- trict of Cunningham from that of Kyle. The country has a gentle slope towards the river, which flows fipom east to west ; and as the traveller approaches^ especially from the south, while his eye sweeps from Loudoun hill to the peaks of Arran, he sees the town beneath him in the midst of a rich and finely cultivated valley. Meteorology. — The climate of this parish is mild, and the mean temperature of the low-lying portions of it, on which the town is built, appears to be higher than that of the adjoining parishes, which lie more inland. The state of the atmosphere as to heat and moisture varies much, and frequently; and from our proxi- mity to the Western Ocean, and the great prevalence of south and west winds, our wet and cloudy days considerably outnumber those of drought and sunshine. The air is thus loaded with aque- • The branches Topography and Natural History, Population, Agriculture, Ecclesiastical State of the Laigh Parish, Poor, and Miscellaneous Observations, were drawn up by Mr Strong : the Civil History, Manufactures, Police, Means of Communication, Ecclesiastical State of the High Church Parish, Education, Lite- rature. Charitable Institutions, Friendly 8i)cietics, by Mr Hamilton. 536 AYRSHIKE. ous vapours, and might be expected to influence accordingly the health of the population. Distempers* — It does not appear, however, that any disease has become located here as an endemic ; neither can it be said that the inhabitants are more liable to be attacked by epidemics ; nor, when they are attacked, do these prove more fatal than in other districts. In the case of cholera, with which the town was visited in common with many others in 1832, the proportion of deaths to the amount of population proved nearly the same as in towns of equal magnitude in other parts of Britain, and on the continent ; and so also may it be stated of other epidemics when such have oc- curred. There is every reason to believe, that the average mor- tality is not greater than in the same amount of population in other manufacturing districts : and that the health of the parish is as good as can be looked for amidst a population of so mixed a character. Geology. — Our information regarding the geology and mine- ralogy of the parish is very vague. The minerals are but few, being principally confined to the carboniferous or coal system ; but their value renders this an important oiineralogical district, for, valuable as its surface produce is, the subterranean treasures are equally great We need not expatiate on the acknowledged im- portance of coal in spreading manufactures and increasing nation- al wealth. The town, which is situated in the south-west end of the parish, is the point towards which all the strata dip ; from it they rise at an angle of about 6 or 7 degrees, and only two dikes of any consequence have been discovered ; one at the very south-west point, of greenstone, about 30 yards broad ; the other, which is much larger, is visible in the Kilmarnock water to the east of the town, and forms an excellent dam dike to the extensive woollen manufactories of Messrs Blackwood. Proceeding up Polbeath burn, the eastern boundary of the parish, several beds of excellent limestone are met with, which have been wrought to considerable advantage for many years, in the neighbouring parish. A little farther up, several veins of ironstone are seen ; these run eastward, and are met with in the estate of Grougar in great abundance and variety ; so much so, that, on this estate, iron-works on an extensive scale are expected to be soon begun. A mass of greenstone forms the bed of the burn for nearly half a-mile ; over which it falls, at , a spot where the banks are nearly 100 feet high, about 60 feet in six or seven sweeps, separate from each other about ten G KILMARNOCK. 637 yards. In several places, a bed of beautiful white freestone, about ten feet thick, is visible. Where the freestone rests on trap, it is full of mica, and very much Calcined. Several attempts have late- ly been made in that quarter to obtain coal. Throughout the south-west, the coal-metals alone prevail. Proceeding up Kil- marnock wat^r, sandstone of various qualities is met with, and near the Dean Castle, a Gne bed of excellent white freestone, 40 feet thick, has long been wrought ; it is sold at lOd. per cart-load, and affords a plentiful supply of stone for all kinds of buildings in the town. A considerable quantity of Gre-bricks is manufactured at the same place ; they sell at L. 4 per thousand. A little farther up, we find greenstone similar to that found at Polbeath burn ; it is dis- tinctly visible for nearly half a -mile, and in one place forms a beau- tiful little waterfall. Along the north-west, the coal metals alone are found ; in these, balls of ironstone are frequently got, and beds of it are often met with below them. Few fossil remains have been observed. Ferns are frequently met with in the shales, and reeds in the freestone. Several specimens of the Lepidodendron have been got in the freestone of the coal for- mation, clearly showing that this was once a much warmer climate. Zoophytes have been found in mountain limestone, belonging to the tribes Encrinites, and Pentacrinites. Several species of bivalve shells have also been met with. No ores, we believe, have been discovered. The following appears to be a correct statement regarding the soil. ^^ In general, it is a strong rich soil, consisting of clay, with a mixture of sand ; and near the moors, some moss. There are some fine holms along the banks of the Irvine, consisting of sand and fine loam brought down by the river, and left on its banks after floods." Along the west and south, the soil is lighter than northward; there it comes more closely in contact with the till, and of course stiffens. The banks of the Irvine have been raised so as to pre- vent those inundations of the neighbouring holms, which used to be experienced annually. The system of tile-draining, which has been very extensively introduced, has had the most beneficial effects on the clayey soil. It is always kept dry and ready for the opera- tions of the husbandman, and the face of the country has in con^ sequence assumed a far more rich and beautiful appearance. Coal mines are the only sort wrought in the parish. They are situated in the estate of His Grace the Duke of Portland, and wrought by 538 AYRSHIRE. him. The seams, which are of the finest quality, vary in thickness from 2^ to 5 feet ; and strata of both fire and blind coal have been wrought to considerable advantage for nearly a century. From the depth at which the respective seams are placed, varying from 20 to 60 fathoms, shafts are invariably sunk. The vast quantity of cla} found above the coal metals keeps them in general dry. Nearly 90,000 tons are raised annually, of which about 25,000 are u^d in the parish, and between 60,000 and 70,000 export- ed. The average price per ton when laid down in the town is 7s. From the judicious management under which the pits are placed, very few accidents occur. Almost no choke-damp is met with. About 300 men are connected with the works, and it is but just to say, that they are a sober, well behaved, industrious people, seldom removing from the locality. Zoology. — The superiority of the Ayrshire cow is generally ad- mitted, and it appears to maintain its high character among agri- culturists of all countries. Not only is it esteemed amongst the dairy districts of Scotland, but it is eagerly sought for to improve English and foreign stock. Of late, great numbers have been pur- chased for exportation to Prussia and Australia, and a high price has been obtained. In milking, the Ayrshire breed is superior, and the quality of the milk very rich. When full-grown, the cow stands about 4 feet 1 or 2 inches high at the shoulder ; the neck and head are small, the muzzle tapered, the horns from 6 to 8 inches long, small at the points, and curved a little upwards. It is straight along the back, the limbs are slender, the udder well- shaped, of an oblong form, and full towards the front, the tail small and tapering, the countenance peculiarly mild and pleasing. When ordinarily fat, the carcase weighs from 28 to 36 stones (14lb. English to the stone.) The prevailing colour is brown, or brown with a few small white spots. Swine rearing is some- what attended to by farmers in general, and the animal is fed to a great size. There is a considerable importation of pigs from Ireland, but they are not equal to those home-bred, and sell at a lower price. • II. — Civil History. Eminent Characters connected with the Parish.— }. Sir William Mure of Rowallan, a pious and learned gentleman, the author of several poetical works, and particularly a metrical version of the Psalms of David. Principal Baillic, who attended the Westmin- ster Assembly, as a Commissioner from the Church of Scotland, f KILMARNOCK. 539 preferred this version to that of Mr Rous, which was recom- mended by the English Parliament, adopted by the General As- sembly, and has ever since been used in Scotland. 2. William, Earl of Kilmarnock, was attainted on account of his accession to the Rebellion in 1745, and beheaded at London in 1746.* The capture of this nobleman, at the battle of Cul- loden, was attended by circumstances peculiarly affecting. Du- ring the confusion of the flight, being half-blinded by smoke and snow, he mistook a party of dragoons for the Pretender's horses, and was accordingly taken. He was soon after led along the lines of the British Infantry, in which his son, then a very young man, held the commission of an ensign. The Earl had lost his hat in the strife, and his long hair, was flying in disorder around his head, and over his face. The soldiers stood mute in their lines, behold- ing the unfortunate nobleman. Among the rest stood Lord Kil- marnock, compelled by his situation to witness, without the power of alleviating, the humiliation of his father. When the Earl came past the place where his son stood, the youth, unable to bear any longer, that his father's head should be exposed to the storm, stepped out of the ranks, without regard to discipline, and taking off hi^ hat, placed it over his father's disordered and wind- beaten locks. He then returned to his place, without having ut- tered a word, while scarcely an eye that saw his filial affection^ but confessed its merit by a tear. 3. The very Rev. Dr Robert Findlay, late Professor of Theo- logy in the University of Glasgow. The memory of this vene- rable man, who was equally distinguished by his extensive learn- ing, unfeigned piety, and unbending integrity, is fondly cherished by all who had the pleasure and advantage of studying under him. 4. Sir James Shaw of Kilmarnock, who was Lord Majfor of the metropolis of the British Empire, though a native of the neighbouring parish uf Riccarton, spent his early life, and received his education in the town of Kilmarnock, and has for many years been the liberal patron of every institution which has for its object the improvement and comfort of its inhabitants. Historical Eiwnts. — In the year 1800, during a season of drought, a. most destructive fire originated among some houses covered with thatch, in the lower part of the town or Netherton- holm, wtiich, under the influence of a strong winci, spread, with amazing rapidity, on both sides of the street. Fortunately it wns * Cliainbers's History of the Kcbcllion 1745. 540 AYIiSHlRE. during the day, and after much exertion, and unroofing seyeral of the houses, the fire was got under, but not until it had rendered a number of families houseless and homeless. Their losses, how- ever, were speedily covered, by. a liberal subscription among the other inhabitants, and by natives of the town, who had removed to England and foreign countries ; and their houses were ultimate- ly even improved, by being covered with slated roofs. On the I8th October 1801, being the Sabbath, the town was visited by another calamity still more memorable and disastrous. At that time the High Church happened to be vacant, and the con- gregation had no sermon on the above day. In consequence of this, the Low Church was much crowded; nothing, however, occur- red to create any alarm during Divine service in the forenoon. But in the afternoon, while the congregation were in the act of assem- bling, a fragment of plaster fell from the ceiling of the church. This produced in the minds of those who were already seated in the galleries, an apprehension that the roof was about to fall in. A rush towards the stairs instantly ensued, when those who were in the act of ascending were encountered by the descending co- lumn, and in a moment precipitated to the bottom. A heart- rending scene was now exhibited. Such a mass of human bodies were heaped on one another, that it was impossible, from the su- perincumbent weight, to render immediate assistance to those who were in the greatest danger. One layerof bodies after another was removed, until the passages were cleared ; but alas, it was too late, for it was found that twenty-nine of the sufferers had already expired. A number of them died from suffocation ; and others who survived were so severely bruised, that they never recovered their former health. This mournful event was altogether the ef- fect of a sudden panic, for the church was neither very old nor in a ruinous condition. The heritors, however, desirous to remove all apprehension from the public mind, immediately resolved to rebuild it, which accordingly was done in the following year. Land-owners, — The chief land-owners are. His Grace the Duke of Portland \ the Marchioness of Hastings and Moira ; William Blane of Grougar, Esq ; the Heirs of the late Mr James Porteous of Monkland ; William H. Crawford of Crawfurdland, Esq. ; John Parker of Aisloss, Esq. ; James Dunlop of Annanhill, Esq. Parochial Registers. — Register of baptisms. The earliest entry is dated 6th February 1644 ; but little seems to have been entered till January 1663. From that period, almost nothing is entered KILMARNOCK. 541 till January 1665 ; but there are many omissions till August 4th 16879 from which time it appears to have been regularly kept. The register of the exercise of discipline is dated as early as 1652 ; but, from the troubles of ihe period, it seems not to have been re- gularly kept till the Revolution in 1686. Antiquities. — The only antiquities which seem worthy of notice are, Dean Castle, Rowallan and Crawfurdland Castles, and Soules Cross. The Dean Castle stands about half a mile north-east from the town, and was the residence of the noble but unfortunate family of Kilmarnock. It is a very ancient edifice ; but no information can be obtained of the time when it was built. In the year 1735, it was entirely consumed by fire. This accident was occasioned by the inattention of a maid-servant, who was preparing some lint for spinning, which unhappily took fire, by which means this noble and ancient structure was laid in ruins. In this situation it still re« mains, and the hand of time is slowly destroying what the fury of the flames has spared. Rowallan Castle, from a remote period the residence of the ba- rons of Rowallan, stands on the banks of the Carmel water, about three miles north-west of the town. The principal and more or- namental part of the building was erected about the year 1562 : the more ancient tower is believed to have been the birth-place of Elizabeth More, first wife of Robert the High Steward, afterwards King Robert II., of Scotland. This venerable mansion is beau- tifully enclosed among trees, in the hollow tract of the stream ; but is, under the unsparing hand of time, falling into decay. Crawfurdland Castle, the interesting and ancient seat of the Crawfurds of Crawfurdland, is situated about three miles to the north-east of the town. It has been built at different periods. The centre part of it, which is a fine Gothic structure, was erect- ed by the present most worthy representative of the family, who is also the descendant of the Howisons of Braehead. The oldest part or tower, whose walls are of great thickness, carries us back to a very remote antiquity. Soules Cross, which gives its name to one of the quarters of the town, was formerly a rude stone pillar, about eight or nine feet high, on the top of which was fixed a small gilded cross. This monument, which is situated at the south entrance of the High Church, was erected in memory of Lord Soules, an English noble- 542 AYRSHIRE. man, who is said to have been killed on the spot A. d. 1444) by an arrow from one of the Kilmarnock family. About twelve years ago, the inhabitants of that quarter of the town erected, at their own expense, in the wall which surrounds the burying-ground, and which fronts Soules Street, a niche, in which they placed a hand- some fluted pillar, surmounted by a vas6. On the pediment is the following inscription : To tbe memory of Lord Sooles, a. d. 1444^ Erected by subscription, a. d. 1825. The days of old to mind I caU. Modem Buildinffs. — About the beginning of the present cen- tury, the magistrates obtained an Act of Parliament for improving the town. This was much wanted, for the streets, like those of qiany of our old Scottish towns, were irregular and narrow. The Commissioners appointed by this act have, in a few years, effected a very great improvement. The principal street along which the great road from Glasgow to Ayr and Portpatrick passes, is very spacious, adorned with many elegant buildings and shops, and more than a mile in length. The houses are built of freestone, which is found in great abundance in the immediate neighbourhood, and the frosts are generally formed of polished ashler. — The town- house, a neat modem buildiug, stands in the centre of the town, on an extended arch over the water of Kilmarnock. It consists of two stories with a belfry. — The butcher's market, which is con- tiguous, is erected on the same arch, which has now sustained, without any visible injury, this immense load for forty-seven years, with all the carriages which are constantly passing and repassing. — The Merchant's Society have built, at a great expense, a very ele- gant inn, which, while it affords the best accommodation to travel- lers, is a great ornament to the town. — The office of the Ayrshire Bank, which is directly opposite, is also a very elegant building. — The carpet factories, which are six in all, have either been rebuilt or greatly enlargedjvithin these five years. These improvements have not only enabled the^ manufacturers to extend their business, but have greatly promoted the health and comfort of the opera- tives. There are five mills in the parish, four of which are situat- ed on the water of Kilmarnock, which passes through the town, and the fifth and largest on the Irvine, about a mile from the town. These are chiefly employed in spinning worsted or woollen yarn, for the carpet factories and bonnet-makers. 4 KlLMAllNOCK, 54^ III. — Population. Tiic population of the town and parish of Kilmarnock was, in 1763, by a return of Dr Webster, nearly . 5O0O In 1792, . 6776 1801, .... 8079 1811, 10148 1821, . ... 12769 1831, Males, 8673 ; Females, 9420; making in all 18093 It is now believed to be about 20,000. The rapid advance which the town has made in the career of manufacturing industry has caused a great and rapid increase and influx of population. The numbers residing in the town may be reckoned nearly 18,000; in yillages, 1000; in the country, between 1000 and 1200. It is impossible to state the annual number. of births, as so many parents unhappily neglect to have their children's names in« serted in the parish register. The average of deaths for the seven years ending with December 1838 is about 460; and the average of marriages proclaimed in these years is 196. There are no nobility, but several gentlemen of independent fortune, resident within the parish. The Duke of Portland ; the Marchioness of Hastings ; William Blane, Esq. of Grougar ; and William Howieson Craufurd, Esq. of Craufurdland, are the prin- cipal heritors. The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards does not exceed 10 or 12. The number of children in a family, in cases where there are children, judging from a specimen taken from the town, would seem to be nearly three and a fourth ; but though a numerous oiF- spring is often met with around the fireside of the working man, still, on striking an average of some hundreds of families, the num- ber of persons is just about four and a-half to a house. Character of the People* — The inhabitants are in general indus- trious and well behaved, kind and hospitable, and in the country part of the parish especially, they are robust and hardy, supporting, by tjieir vigorous proportions, the long established reputation of Ayr- shire for the quality of her peasantry, and affording a most favourable specimen of her ^^ honest men and bonnie lasses." The habits and manners of the people of Kilmarnock are much the same as those of other manufacturing towns ; while it may be observed, that, among a large portion of them, there is very much of a decent church-going habit ; but the facility with which work can be procured for children, and the tender age at which, from necessity, they are often withdrawn from school, are operating in a moral and religious point of view, 544 AYRSHIRE. seriously to the disadvaDtage of the rising generation. The Ayr- shire plaid is very generally worn by females. It is a noticeable pe- culiarity in their style of dress, and its simple drapery, when clean, is a comely ornament to their persons. Games. — The observances of Pastern's E'en were discontinued last year. These were principally races, and considered to be of great antiquity, having been practised annually for the last five cen- turies. Bowl playing is much resorted to in the summer season. The ancient national game of curling has for a long period formed a prominent recreation in the parish, during frost in the winter months. We find it taken notice of as prevailing among the in- habitants, so early as the year 1644 ; and the curlers of Kilmarnock have long been, and still are, famed for the completeness of their equipments, and the proficiency they have attained in the more scientific departments of the game. There may be from 200 to 800 keen, curlers in the parish, and during the long-continued frost of 1838, the palm of victory was carried off by " Auld Killie," from all the surrounding parishes successively. There is a great deal of poaching, but no smuggling. It must be admitted that pawnbroking is on the increase, owing, perhaps, in no small degree, to the adversity occasioned to such a population by any stagnation in trade. In addition to one licensed broker, there are several unlicensed, who, being less scrupulous in their operations, are in many respects hurtful to this community. IV. — Industry. Agricidture* — The parish has almost universally a rich soil, and is nearly all arable ; and even that which is not arable, might, with a little expense and care, be rendered good pasture. In the east and north-east end, plantations of considerable extent are met with, but in the south-west, not one of any size is visible, which is the more to be wondered at, as they not only adorn, but enrich a coun- try by their intrinsic worth, and the shelter they afford. The en- tire appropriation of the fields, and the now almost universally used and well-dressed thorn-hedge, have left no undivided common. Rent. — Of the 8340 acres in the parish, 7470 yield an annual rental of from L. 1, 10s. to L. 1, 12s. per acre, though in some cases, near the town, fields are let at a much higher rate ; the re- maining "870 do not bring more than lis. per acre. The total rental is about L. 12,000. Grazing. — The charge of grazing varies of course with the quality of the pasture, but the average is L. 4 for an ox or cow. KILMARNOCIC. 545 Sheep are only occasional visitors to the rich herbage of most {>art of the parish ; but where they are kept, 12s. is the annual charge for their pasture. Wages, — Ploughmen and other labourers connected with farm- work receive on an average L. 26 annually. An expense of about L. 33 in all is incurred, where they are kept by the farmer. Fe^ male servants are paid at the rate of L. 18u If maintained by their masters, from L. 8 to L. 10 is a respectable fee. Miil-wrights, masons, and smiths receive, when the days are long, about 18s. weekly; in winter, from 12s. to 15s. Whilst the farmer has received 7s. 6d. per stone of 16 lbs. for his cheese, and 7s. for the same quantity of his beef, he has paid for manure, the produce of the horse and cow, ds. 6d. per cubic yard ; town ashes. Is. 6d. ; Irish lime. Is. lOd. per boll of 4 bushels, and Is. 4d. for the same quantity of Scotch. For 1000 of com- mon tiles used in draining, L. 1, 5s. is paid, and L. 3 for large ones. Prices. — The average price of oatmeal for a number of years back has been 17s. per boll of 170 lbs. imperial ; of bear, L. 1, 4s. per boll of 8 imperial bushels; of barley, L. 1, 9s. for the same boll ; of white corn, 17s. for the same quantity; of wheat, L. 1, 4s. per boll of 4 imperial bushels ; of beans and pease, 16s. for the same boll ; potatoes have averaged 1 Is. per 50 stones of 16 lbs. Live-Stock. — We have only two kinds of sheep in the parish, the black-faced, and the common Cheviot In the dairy, the Ayr- shire cow is alone used. An annual exhibition takes place in the town, at which prizes are awarded for the best specimens of the various kinds of cattle. Very few horses are reared, and these few are generally the produce of the common plough-horse of Clydesdale. Agricultural Associations* — Local and general associations, whilst raising the character of the husbandry throughout Scotland, have nowhere extended their beneficial influence to more purpose thap in this parish. Whilst the stock is changing, the farmers are not remaining unchanged. A considerable difference exists between their condition at present, and their state fifty years ago. Their manner of living is now more assimilated to that of the landlord. Their knowledge advances with that of general society, and, in the march of improvement, they are seen working their &rms to the best advantage. In general, they are better able to pay their rents than AYR. M m 5^6 AYRSHIRE. they were forty years ago. Whilst this is to be attributed, in a great degree, to the persevering industry of the tenants, something must be owing to the protection afforded by the Legislature! and not a lit- tle to the societies into which the agriculturists have formed them- selves, — by means of which, the combined knowledge of the best managers of the different kinds of crops on the different soils is made known to all. The superior manner of feeding the dairy stock has added greatly to the returns yielded by it It may be stated here, that we have in the parish 800 milch cows, 260 agri- cultural horses, 260 white-faced sheep, and about 300 black-faced sheep. Husbandry. — The manner of cropping varies ; but generally after four years pasture, the land is top*dres8ed and a crop of oata raised— -the manure is applied with a green crop, such as potatoes, beans, or turnips, — then wheat or barley follows, and lastly hay and clover. In some parts, a continual succession of crops is practised, oats are reared one year, then a green crop with manure, then wheat, and lastly clover. Experience has shown that, under such a mode of procedure, the soil rapidly deteriorates, though annual-* ly supplied with abundance of manure. This latter system is in* jurious alike to landlord and tenant, while the former seems far the best for all parties and all soils. The quality of the soil would be much better sustained, if it were richly manured ere the last crop is raised ; and to secure such an end, a premium might be of- fered for the best pasture, as the pasture must be good in propor- tion to the richness of the soil ; besides, if a premium were propos-* ed for the best oats, or first crop after pasture, tenants might be induced to allow the field to lie at rest a year or two loogei*, which is by far the best mode of enriching the soiL Imprwements. — The principal advance made in agriculture con- sists, not so much in reclaiming waste land, as in improving that already reclaimed. An old writer, afier informing us that the soil, which is frequent* ly only a foot deep, rests on a strong till, complains *^ that, in con-* sequence, the autumnal rains which fall peculiarly heavy in the western parts of Scotland, having no longer the heat of the sun, as in summer, to exhale them, he and stagnate on the surfiice of the ground during the whole winter, which greatly injures it, and for a time, even destroys its vegetative powers." The' evil al- luded to has been greatly removed by tile-draining^ an improve- ment introduced into the parish about the year 1820, by KILMARNOCK. 547 Grace the Duke of Portland. Since that time the practice has been followed, as far as the supply of tiles would admit; be- sides 800,000 made yearly in the parish, about 500,000 are im- ported from- the Moorfield tile*works, in the immediate neighbour-^ hood. About a third of the parish has already undergone this improving process, — by which an addition of about L. 500 has been made to the rental ; and what were formerly the Vorst and most unproductive fields, now yield the best crops. The plan followed by His Grace is as follows : he prepares the tiles, and puts them into the ground. The farmer drives and lays them out, providing straw, if required, which is the case in stubble or fallow land. The drains are generally placed about 18 feet apart, and in clay land are cut to the depth of 18 inches. Where the bottom of the drain is soft or the land steep, soles are put un- der the tiles to prevent them from sinking or losing their regu- larity ; when the field is 250 or 300 yards in length, a main dram is drawn through the middle of it, to prevent the drain from be- coming choked, and the same thing is done in cases where hol- lows intervene. A main drain is also drawn across the end of the field, to receive the waters from the furrow drains. These main conductors are about 2 feet deep, considerably wider than the com- mon drains, and the tiles always rest on flat soles. For the im- provement of land and consequent increase of produce hereby caused, the farmer pays His Grace 5s. per Scotch acre. In some instances, other proprietors follow the same plan ; in others, the tenant is allowed to purchase the tiles at prime cost, and bear all the expense of putting them in. The disadvantages of this latter mode are obvious; in many cases, a farmer does not think it pro- per to lay out such a sum on land which may ere long pass into the hands of another; and frequently, though willing, he does not possess the necessary capital, — upwards of L. 500 being required to drain a farm consisting of 100 acres. All encouragement should be given to this mode of fertilizing the soil, the best which has been practised for a century ; and that encouragement, we con- ceive, may be best and most judiciously bestowed by adopting the plan followed by His Grace the Duke of Portland. Leases generally extend to eighteen years. Until the introduc* tion of the present mode of regulating the rent by the prices of grain, the longest lease was the best for the tenant. The im- provement of trade naturally increased the population, and a con- sequent increased demand was made on the farmer. The gradual 548 AYRSHIRE. increase of produce and price fell totally to the tenant if the lease were long, and the landlord was not benefited at all. Now that the prices are steady, an extension of the lease from eighteen to twenty- four years might be advantageous to both parties. The tenant would have more scope for improvements. Instead of impoverish- ing the land by taking as much out, and putting as little in as pos- sible, it would be for his own profit to sustain the quality of the soil. The landlord whilst receiving his rent would have the value of his property maintained, if not increased. In former times, when leases were very long, and rents very moderate, few realized any thing; they had no spur to improvement or diligence ; a little trouble en- abling them to sustain their families and pay their rents, they grew no better, the land remained as it was, and the landlord knew not and received not the value of his soil. A better state of things, we conceive, now exists ; while the rent is not too high, it i^ high enough to call forth the talents of the cultivator, that he may be enabled to maintain his rank in society, and keep his credit with the proprietor. New modes of procedure are adopted, invention is at work, and he is the best tenant who raises the most food on the smallest space* Much difference of opinion exists regarding the best size of farms, which in the parish vary from 60 to 200 acres ; some hold- ing that they should be all small, others that two or three small ones should be united so as to form a larger farm, and allow some scope for enterprise and improvement. We hold neither opi- nion exclusively, but think that they should be of all sizes, from 60 to 200 acres. Then would there be a fair field for men of skill and energy, whatever might be the amount of their capital ; various ranks would be admitted to share in the contest, for contest it has become ; and various no doubt would be the results ; as difierent as the spirits and the soils engaged in the work. Farm" Buildings. — Domestic comfort is an object all men have in view, and where this is not contemplated by the landlord, the ex- ertions of the tenant are not likely either to be spirited or success- ful. Nothing contributes to it more directly than substantial and convenient houses. In the old Statistical Account, heavy com- plaints are made against the negligence of proprietors in this re- ' spect ; but since then, the ground of remonstrance has been almost universally removed, and good substantial farm-steadings are every- where to be met with, — an improvement which increases the value of an estate in a ratio much greater than the expense incurred. In KILMARNOCK. - 549 some cases, the tenant pays 5 or 6 per cent, on the sum laid out ; but in a greater number of instances, the proprietor provides every requisite accommodation without exacting any thing except the in- dispensable obligation to keep the houses and offices in proper re- pair. C!ottages are universally neater than they used to be, and cottar vies with cottar in keeping his little house and garden in seemly order. Pfoif^A*.— Various kinds of ploughs have been introduced. That generally used, and which has been found to work best, is the well known iron plough of Mr Wilkie of Uddingstone ; it has gone for many years among our fields. Various instruments, the production of the same enterprising mechanic, have a preference given them, such as those used for green cropping and cleaning the ground. Many of the smiths and wrights in the parish are making the same kinds of implements, and, in not a few cases, are suggesting improvements on the originals, such as the harrow, the roller, the cleaner, the grubber, &c. The subsoil or deepening plough has been tried with great suc- cess. The furrow, being ten or twelve inches deep, is much tiked for opening and mixing the under -stratum with the ordinary surface soil. The instruments used for the drilling, cleaning, and hoeing of the green crops, beans, potatoes, and turnips, are various, and the best used in the country. They are made of iron and oak, and are neat and substantial. Farm carts, which are all drawn by a single horse, are not very large, the box containing rather more than a cubic yard. Thrashing-mills may be mentioned among the general improvements ; every farm of even sixty acres has one. Horse power is used in working them, and the number is regulated by the size of the mill. Would not steam power be better? The horses would be fitter for out-door work, and in many cases a horse or two fewer would suffice for the farm. Along with thrashing, have been introduced grinding- mills. In the east end of the pa- rish, we have the Milton and Crooksmills ; in the middle, the New Mill and Rowallan ; and in the west end, Cambuskethan Mill. The Milton, New, and Cambuskethan, grind flour, the other two grind oats chiefly ; they are situated on and worked by the Irvine and Kilmarnock waters. Another general improvement is the constant supply of water for the mills and manufactories in the town, obtain- ed from extensive reservoirs formed of the Kilmarnock water in the high lands of .the adjoining parish of Fen wick. 550 AYRSHIRE. The grdin made into meal annually at these mills is as follows : Bolls of wheat of 4 Bolls of oats of 8 bushels. bushels. Cambuskechan, 8500 9900 New.mill, 8000 8800 MiltoD.roill, . 2500 8800 Crooks-milU 2200 Rowallan-mill, 2500 St Mamock's-mili, in town, is but lately ereeted. Besides the above grain, there are a few bolls of beans made into meal at each of these mills, but the amount varies, and is not easily ascertained. In the progress of agriculture, the change is very striking, and perhaps no district of Scotland has undergone so much improve* ment In 1792, there was but a comparatively small portion of the land under cultivation, and that quantity yielded inferior crope^ Almost none of the present improved modes of farming were then known ; the husbandry implements were of a rude and imperfect kind ; and tile-draining, the modern charm for fertilizing the soil, was not dreamt of. Jtaw Produce. — The following table exhibits the present amount of the produce of land in crop. Extent in Produce Total pro- Rate crop in per aore ducein per Amount, imp. acres, in bush. bushels. bushel. Oats, 1150 40 46,000 Barlej, 50 40 2,000 Wheat, 250 80 7,500 Beans, 150 24 8,600 Potatoes^ 800 8 tons, 2,400 Tttrnipsy 100 12 1,200 Rye-grass hay, 1000 U 1,250 Rye-graa somI, 12 bushels. 12,000 28. lid. L.4887 10 8s. 7id. 862 10 66. 2260 46. 720 L.l,lOB.0d. 8600 L.1, 1200 L.2, 2500 2b. 1200 Dairy L. 16,810 Produce.-'-^ Cheese per year, 12,000 stones of 16 lb, at 7s. 6d. - L. 4500 Milk per day 500 wine gallons, annual produce of 148 cows, say ibr 105 days, at 8^ gallons per cow per day, s= 52,500 at 5|d. . 1208 600 sheep led on pasture at 12s. 6d. each, - - 87d 400 swine at L. 8. 10s. each, ... ]220 400 young cattle reared yearly, graiing and keep,' - 800 20 young horses reared annually, - - . 100 Annual ydue of cattle fed on grass and turnips for slaughter, - 250 Produce of nursery ground, .... lOOO 2 6 e L. 26,258 2 6 Considerable quantities of grain are imported from Ireland into the parish, and made into meal and flour at the different mills. A lai^e proportion of the oats grown in the parish and converted into meal is conveyed to Glasgow, Paisley, and other markets^ where it is rapidly bought up. KILMARNOCK. 551 Potatoes are cultivated in this parish to a considerable extent The raising of the turnip also forms an important care to the agri- culturist, as by its culture the land is cleansed and improved. On its produce, the cattle are fed for the dairy and for slaughter, and flocks of sheep, generally purchased at the Falkirk market, are fed on it, in an ingenious way, by means of flakes or moveable palings, which also prevent them from rambling over the field. The progress of agriculture was early promoted by an Agricul- tural Society, formed in Kilmarnock in 1792, which continues stiil in active operation, and which, during its long career, has been tDost useful in stimulating the exertions of th^ enterprizingand in- genious farmer. Various gentlemen in and around the town have lent their aid to this institution ; and, of late years much of its prosperity has been owing to the practical knowledge and perse- vering exertions of Mr George Paxton, formerly its secretary. Mantffactures.-^^The manufactures of Kilmarnock are various, and some of them very extensive. The manufacture of worsted printed shawls alone employs 1200 weavers, and about 200 prin- ters. Between May 1830 and the Ist of June 1831, there were 1,128,814 o( these shawls manufactured, the value of which amounted to about L. 200,000. The annual value now is estimat- ed at L. 280,000. This important branch of trade was introduced into Scotland in 1824, at Greenholm printfield here, by Mr Wil- liam Hall, an^ingenious and enterprizing calico-printer, and afforded great relief when the muslin weaving was in a very depressed state. In the carpet factories, about 1200 persons are employed in weaving Brussels, Venetian, Turkey, and Scotch carpets and rugs, the quality and patterns of which are not surpassed by any in Britain. The annual value of this branch of trade is about L. 150,000. The Commissioners and Trustees for Manufactures, &C. in Scotland, awarded in the competition for premiums for 1881, to Gregory, Thomson, and Company, for four carpets Tur- key fabric, L. 150, and an extra premium of L.80. And the judges expressed the following opinion : The four carpets of the Turkey fabric, the first, it is believed, that ever were made in Scot- land, the judges thought deserved most particular notice ; that they are of a splendid description, and form an important addition to the Scottish manufactures, and fully entitle the spirited manufac- turers to the liberal premiums adjudged to them. The premiums awarded to Kilmarnock amounted in all, in 1831, to L. 210. The manufacture of boots and shoes is very considerable. About 552 AYRSHIRE* 2400 pairs of shoes are made per ¥^eek, of which three-fourths are exported. The annual value of this branch of trade is about L. 50,000. There are about 18»720 of bonnets manufactured annually by the Corporation of Bonnet- Makers, the value of .which is about L. 12,000. The number of sheep and lamb skins dressed annually exceeds 140,000. There are three tan- works, in which the trade of tan- ning and currying are carried on extensively, and the annual value of leather manufactured is estimated at L. 45,000. Besides these several branches, there are extensive manufactures of machinery, telescopes, tobacco, candles, hats, hosiery, and sad- dlery. The trade in grocery goods, victuals, and liquors, may amount to at least L. 16,000 ; and of cloths, silks, linens, cot- tons, and hose, there may be retailed to the annual amount of at least L. 70,000. There is also an extensive trade in field and garden seeds. Men, women, and children, work in these manufactures six days per week, and most ten hours per day, and some twelve hours. And when thus prosecuted steadily, the manufactures afford a fair remu- neration and support to those engaged in them. The severest pri- vations of the operatives arise from the frequent recurrence of stag- nations of trade, and the attendant want of public confidence. And it must be added, with sorrow, that some of the working classes increase their difficulties by their improvidence, and intemperate habits when trade is good. Here there is no complete remedy. After humanity has exercised all her ingenuity, and put forth all her strength, much distress has been experienced. The carpet manufacturers in Kilmarnock are eminently indebt- ed to the inventive genius of Mr Thomas Morton of this town, a self-instructed mechanist, who, by his improvements in machinery^ has effected a considerable saving in time and manual labour, and secured a greater variety and accuracy in the patterns. This ac- tive genius has now turned his attention to the construction of teles- copes, and has built, at his own expense, a fine observatory with valuable machinery, and two telescopes of a very superior descrip- tion. From the high character of these instruments, he has been called to supply with them various other observatories. As a grateful memorial of these obligations to their townsman^ the manufacturers of Kilmarnock presented him with a massy silver punch- bowl, with the following inscription : *^ Presented by KILMARNOCK. 553 the inhabitants of Kilmarnock, to Thomas Morton of Morton Place, a mechanic, whose inventive genius has eminently conCri- buted to the prosperity of their manufactures, 1826." V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Toum. — Kilmarnock is the only market- town in the pa- rish. There are two or three small villages between the town and the eastern boundary of the parish ; and several occupied by the colliers ta the west. The market-days in Kilmarnock are Tuesday and Friday, when much business is transacted between the agricultural and manufacturing population, to their mutual advantage. Police. — The police establishment, though not extensive, is kept by the commissioners of police in vigorous operation, and is very efficient. There is perhaps no town of the same size in Britain, where the persons and property of the inhabitadts are more secure than they are in Kilmarnock.' Means of Communication, — These are ample and sufficient for all the purposes of commerce, and external communication. There is one post-office, which yields a considerable revenue. This has increased of course with the trade of the town. The chief of the turnpike roads is the great thoroughfare between Glasgow and Port- patrick, which passes through the parish, where its breadth from north to south may be about three and a-half or four miles, — and through the town, where its length may be about one mile and a quarter. Four coaches ply daily between Kilmarnock and Glasgow, one between Kilmarnock, Irvine, and Ardrossan, and one between Kilmarnock and Edinburgh, by Loudon and Strathaven. There are two or three turnpike roads which intersect the landward parish in different directions, of no great extent, but which are all kept in good repair. Bridges, — There are five bridges over the water of Kilmarnock within the town, all in excellent repair. And two over the Irvine, between Kilmarnock and Riccarton, in the same condition. The roads in the parish are commodious, and kept in excellent repair, and there have been many improvements, especially of late, effected upon them, which render them equal probably to any in Great Britain. The old streets of the town are narrow and inconvenient, but all the modem thoroughfares are spacious and handsome. No town possesses more ample means of communica- tion with the surrounding country. The intercourse with Glasgow, in particular, is very frequent, and the rapidly increasing number of carriers is a sure indication that trading is on the increase. It is 554 AYRSHIRE. to be lamented, however, that Kilmarnock is not likely to partici- pate in the advantages of an immediate communication with the Glasgow and Ayrshire railway. It was the wish of the directors of the railway to have brought it through a place so important, but the difficulty of finding a practicable level prevented so desirable an object. The railway, which runs from Kilmarnock to Troon, is another great advantage to the parish. The practicability and usefulness of such a line were long since clearly pointed out The difference of the respective elevations of the depots is only 80 feet It was finished, in 1812 at an expense of upwards of L. 50,000. It is a double road, constructed with flat rails, resting on blocks of durable stone. Its length is nine miles and a-half. Horse power alone is used, for which l^d. per ton per mile is paid. The dues are 2d. a mile per ton. We may mention that, in 1816, a locomotive en- gine, the first of the kind started in Scotland, was tried. It was intended to convey coal to Troon from the Duke of Portland's col- liery, but, from its defective construction and ill adaptation to flat rails, it only drew ten tons at the rate of five miles an hour. Since then, no attempt has been made to introduce steam power. As it will in a few years very possibly become a branch of the western railway, several changes may take place in its construction, and it is not unlikely that the only propelling power used will be steam. By means of this railway, there is free intercourse with the harbour of Troon. Quantities of timber, grain, slates, and lime, are brought into the parish, and about 70,000 tons of coal annually conveyed out of it About 200,000 tons pass along it in the course of the year. The farmer gets lime cheaply conveyed to his farm, — ^the landlord's property is increased in value by the facility of commu- nication with the market-town, and the public have a ready means of transport to convenient watering-places. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish of Kilmarnock is one in civil matters ; but the name embraces the High Church parish, which lies in the town, and is disjoined quoad sacra. The Laigh or ori- ginal parish church is situated in the heart of the town, two miles from the western extremity of the parish, and seven from the north- east boundary ; and though at such a distance from some of the population, it could not with propriety be placed otherwise. It was rebuilt in 1802, with a commodious square staircase at each angle, conductii^ to the galleries, — a precaution adopted in con- sequence of the melancholy occurrence in 1801, already noticed. KILMARNOCK. 555 It has since been repaired in IBSlj at an expense of about L. 1200. It affords sittings for 1457 persons, — the number of seats allotted to the poor being only 16. The spire is believed to have been built in 141 (h Being a collegiate church, there are two manses and two glebes. The manse attached to the first charge was built about 1763, and repairs and additions were niade in 1780 and 1802. The glebe extends to 12 acres ; and its pre- sent annual value is about L. 30. Both ministers are entitled to no more than the minimum stipend of L. 150, the teinds being exhausted. The manse of the second charge was erected in 1826 ; and having been superficially finished, has required to be repeat- edly and considerably repaired. The glebe consists of 4^ acres, partly occupied by manse, ofl5ces,-&c. and yields at present in grass L. 12 a-year. A new and handsome place of worship, in the Gothic style, with a very elegant front and massive tower, was lately built in the town by subscription, and opened in 1836, ca- pable of containing about 1700 sitters ; but as the debt upon it is considerable, and no separate parish has yet been assigned to it, the duty, by a temporary arrangement, is done by the two mini- sters of the collegiate church alternately. Since the year 1834, there has been a missionary in the parish, paid by means of an annual voluntary subscription, and employed as an additional labourer in the midst of our crowded town popu- lation ; and there has, moreover, been for some time a service in an old chapel in the village of Crooked Holm, conducted by a li- centiate of the church who resides there. Within the Laigh parish quoad sacra, there is a large place of worship belonging to the Relief Synod, which is rather remarkable, from its being ornamented with a tall spire, and having a bell for summoning the meetings of the congregation. The Camerooians, the United Secession, and the Independents, have each a meeting- house ; and a small body of Original Seceders assemble for wor- ship in a hall of the academy. The parish quoad sacra contains between 16,000 and 17,000 inhabitants. In February 1836, an ecclesiastical survey was made, which, although not quite completed, was the means of ascer- taining the situation of about 15,200 of the' people^ The same questions being asked in every house, 8957 were returned as be- longing to the Established Church ; 6119 as connected with other denominations of all sorts ; and 174 as not known to belong to any denomination. The Established Church must have suffered most 556 AYRSHIRE. materially during a long period, since, while the number of inha- bitants of the whole parish was rising from perhaps between 3000 and 4000 to 20,000, there had not been a new place of worship erected in connexion with the Church of Scotland for more than a hundred years. Although the number of careless persons is unhap- pily great, the general body of the people show the utmost respect for the sacred ordinances of religion, — the average number of com. municant^ in the Low and^ St Marnock's Churches jointly being 1600, and there being still amongst us no small portion of the an- cient west country Presbyterian feeling and love of the GospeL The Roman Catholics in the Low parish, who are nearly all Irish, were believed, in October 1836, to amount to between 600 and 700. Their priest is stationed in Ayr, and visits them periodically. The bishop resides in Glasgow. Besides a male and a female benevolent society, and a dispen- sary, there are a female society for religious purposes, whose funds amount to about L. 30 a-year ; and a parochial association recently established for promoting the religious schemes of the General Assembly, and other missionary purposes. It may also be mentioned, that a library has lately been esta* blished by subscription, in connexion with the parish church and St Marnock's, as a means of promoting a taste for sound reading and the Christian instruction of all classes. It has been named the Mackinlay Library, in honour of an aged minister, who, in his eighty-second year, retains the buoyant spirit and 6re of youth, and who has for more than half a century been highly and deserv- edly popular as a divider of the word of truth among this people. High Church. — The High Church parish is confined to the upper ward of the town, and from this circumstance the parish derives its name ; for though its elevation is not great, it is a few feet higher than the site of the Low Church, which is the original parish. The plan has been borrowed from St Martins-in-the- Fields, London, which is reckoned the most successful effort of Gibb, the Scottish architect. The plan, however, is stript of many of the ornaments of the original, as executed in the High Church, and particularly of the splendid portico. The exterior is plain, and the elevation of the tower may be about 80 feet. The interior is well lighted ; and the roof, which is a piece of finished workmanship, is supported by a double row of elegant pillars, of the composite order. It contains 952 sittings, is about a square within, and an oblong square without, and is kept in the best re- 3 KILMAKNOCKp 557 pair. And though 106 years have passed away since its erection, it has still the appearance of great neatness, comfort, and dura- bility. The avenues from the south and the north are lined by rows of beautiful limes. ^ As the chui^ch was built from subscriptions raised among the operatives, resident chiefly in the town, for their own accommoda- tion, it became their property, and was divided among them in shares proportioned to the amount of their, subscriptions. For many years it was placed on the footing of a chapel of ease, and received a constitution from the General Assembly. But in 1811, with the consent of His Grace the Duke of Portland, the patron ; of the ministers of the Low Church ; of the presbytery of the bounds ; and of three-fourths of the valuation of the landward he- ritors, — the proprietors instituted, in the Court of Teinds, a process of disjunction and erection into a separate parish quoad sacrOy which terminated favourably on the 1 9th of June the same year. The minister's stipend is not to be under 115 bolls of victual, half meal, half bear, yearly, and not to exceed 144 bolls, pay- able in money, according to the highest fiars prices of the connty of Ayr, together with a sufficient sum for furnishing communion elements. The minister receives the maximum. He has neither manse nor glebe, but he receives the Government allowance in lieu of them. There are two Dissenting chapels in the parish : the one is con- I nected with the Original Burgher Synod, and the other with the United Associate Synod. Both are respectably filled, but what amount of stipends their ministers receive, the writer of this has no means of knowing. The High Church is well filled, and the number of communi- cants averages about 500. Tbe whole population of the parish is . . d2I2 The number under 12 years of age is . . 1097 There are connoted with the Established Church, . 1677 There are connected with other denominations, . . 1325 There are belonging to no denomination, . . 212 There are who have a right to sittings, . • . 995 Communicants connected*with the Established Church, . . 399 Communicants connected with other denominations, . 393 Roman Catholics . . 219 Sitters in the High Church in the parish . . 696 Sitters in the Low Church, . . 798 Sitters in the Relief Churchy . • .317 Sitters in the United Secession Church, . . 388 Sitters with the Original Burghers, . . • 236 I , ' Connected with the Reformed Presbytery, . . 43 Benefactions. — The late Mrs Mary Cuninghame, relict of the 55S AYRSHIRE. late Captain Archibald Cuniiighame, of his Majesty's 51st Re« giment of Foot, by her disposition and settlement in 1820, lefi; to the minister of the High Church parish of Kilmarnock, and his successors in office, the sum of L. 200, to be lent out on pro- per security, and the interest applied yearly to assist in the sup^ port of ten poor families in Kilmarnock, not on the session, whe* ther in the High or Low Church parishes, in such proportion as the minister of the High Church for the time may direct Also the late John MacNider, Esq. merchant in Quebec, left to the minister of the High Church, Kilmarnock, the sum of L. 40 for behoof of the poor within the High Church parish, as the said minister may direct. The above sums to be lent also on proper security, and the interest only applied to the poor. As the sessional fiinds are at present derived from an assess- ment, which is levied both from landward and town heritors, and which is found to be very heavy, there are no general collections for the poor. The annual amount collected at the High Church for religious purposes may be about L. 40. Education. — There are in the landward part of the parish three schools, and three teachers, and in the town twenty schools, and twenty-eight teachers in all, including male and female. The first in importance is the academy, which was built in 1807, at the joint expense of the heritors and comntiunity. This is merely an ex- tension of the parochial system, and seems well adapted for large towns. In consequence of the rapid increase of the population, the heritors and other inhabitants^ convinced of the great benefits derived from the parochial system of education, appointed three teachers in the parochial school, that is the academy, one for the classics, one for English, and one for the commercial department. The first is the parochial teacher, who is the classical teacher, and who is allowed the maximum salary by the heritors, with a house and garden sufficiently large to accommodate several boarders ; the second and third teachers have each L. 15 per annum without house or garden. Upwards of 300 pupils attend the academy, at which are taught the following branches, viz. the English language m all its depart- ments, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, mathematics, geography, ancient and modern, Latin, Greek, French, and English composi* tion. The direction is vested in, 1. five directors chosen annu- ally from the heritors ; 2. five directors chosen annually from the Town- Council ; 3. the three clergymen of the Established KILMARNOCK. 559 Church, ex officiis ; 4. subscribers of L. 20 and upwards ; 5. five directors chosen annually from subscribers of L. 5, and under L. 20 ; 6, the preses of the Merchant's Society, as representing \m 50 subscribed by them. These directors are authorized to choose the teachers as vacancies occur, and to fix the rate of fees. There are two branches of the parish school, one in Bowallan, and the other in Grougar barony. They have each a house for school and master, half a chalder of victual, and a small garden. The half chalder is meanwhile paid voluntarily by the heritors to the teacher at Rowallan, because he has not yet been appointed according to the terms of the schoolmaster's act ; but the payment to the teacher in Grougar is now regularly assessed for, as he was lately chosen in the manner prescribed by law. The heritors act- ed on the occasion in the most liberal manner, having subscribed a handsome sum to aid the inhabitants of the district, the lord of the manor, and other contributors, in erecting a commodious house. Upwards of 2000 pupils attend the other schools of the town and parish, at which, taken collectively, the above-mentioned branches are taught, with the addition of sewing and music Two of the schools in town were erected for the reception of the children of the poor, whose education would otherwise have been neglected, and are supported by a subscription among the inhabitants generally. The first is the female school of industry, patronised by the ladies, in which about twenty-five girls are taught English reading, needle-work, and knitting of stockings. The teacher, who is also a female, has a salary of L. 20 per annum. The second is the free school, patronized by the gentlemen. In this school, there are two departments, viz. the day- school and the evening class. Into the day-school, orphans and neglected boys and girls are admitted indiscriminately, on the pro- duction of a certificate from one of the managers, that they are not under five and a half years of age. In this department, English readingand writing are taught without any expense whatever, and the average number of scholars is about 1 90. Into the evening class, boys and girls more advanced in age, who are employed du- ring the day in some of the public works, are admitted, and the average number of scholars is about 90. The teacher is allowed a salary of L. 50 per annum. In all the schools the Shorter Ca- techism is taught, and the Bible is one of the schooUbooks. There are in the town and landward parish 21 Sabbath evening 060 AYKSHIRE. schools, which are conducted by 142 teachers, and in which there are 1288 scholars. We may here notice, that the late William Paterson, Esq. of Ayr, left L. 90 a-year, to be apportioned by nine trustees amongst young persons at school in Kilmarnock, applying for the same ; in order to promote emulation among the scholars, and to aid in completing their education, whether here or elsewhere. The number of youths who cannot read or write, is very incon- siderable. The natives of Kilmarnock, in general, are fully alive to the benefits of education, and covet them above all things for their children. They struggle hard to reuder them scholars, and if possible great scholars. There are, however, exceptions, but these are not numerous, and occur chiefly among those who are natives of Ireland, or who have become poor and indifferent about the education of their children, from the frequent use of ardent spirits. The free school and the school of industry furnish a remedy for this evil ; for neglected children are readily admitted into both, on application on the part of their parents. But the greatest enemy to education in this and other commercial towns, is a disposition on the part of poor parents to avail themselves of the fruits of their children's industry. They can often procure em- ployment for them in some of the factories^ when, for ^he small sum of 2s. or ds. per week, they are daily confined ten or twelve hours. As far as can be ascertained, there are about 200 adults who cannot read or write, who are mostly natives of Ireland. The general diffusion of education in the parish undoubtedly exerts a most salutary influence on the conduct and morals of the inhabi- tants. But there are two counteracting causes. The first is, the constant influx of strangers, chiefly from Ireland, who have not en- joyed the same advantages, and who, mingling with the natives, imperceptibly influence their moral habits. The second is, the great number of licenses to retai] ardent spirits in inns, shops, and cellars, which are issued. Thus, the temptations to intemperance are indefinitely multiplied, the morals of the people are gradually deteriorated, and all the ties of society are corroded and weaken- ed. The revenue, indeed, is increased, but the depravation of morals is the consequence. The inhabitants of Kilmarnock have ever been distinguished for their attachnoent to the illustrious house of Hanover, and the prin- ciples of the Revolution,* When Lord Kilmarnock, in 1745, re- * Chambers' History. KILMARNOCK. 561 quested them to arm themselves in behalf of the house of Stu- art, they obstinately refused. His Lordship assembled them in the town hall, and tried them first with entreaties » and then with threats, but not one would consent to join his standard. He then confined his demands to their arms, for bonnet-makers and weavers as they were, they still retained the old muskets and rusty shab- bies of their Covenanting ancestors, and occasionallydisplayed them at bloodless wapping-shaws. But this requisition they were pre- pared to resist; and one of them had even the hardihood to tell his Lordship, that, if they presented him with their guns, it would be with the muzzle ^7/ him.* Literature. — The town library is very valuable, both from the number of the books, and their character. It is particularly rich in the different branches of history. The members of the society subscribe 7s. annually, and the entry-money cannot exceed L. 2. There is, besides, a mechanics institution, which has attached to it a respectable collection of appropriate books. There are in town two reading-rooms, one for operatives, and the other for their masters, and both are supplied with such news- papers, reviews, and public documents, as the readers judge to be most interesting and instructive. But many of the inhabitants pre- fer reading the public prints by their own fireside, where their fa- milies also may hear and obtain this indulgence by forming them- selves into small circles of readers, which are kept in order by the observance of regulations which are of their own formation. There are two newspapers published weekly in town, the one de- signed the Kilmarnock Journal^ and the other the Ayrshire Exami- ner. The Journal, which has been several years in the course of pub- lication, has obtained an encouraging extent of circulation. The Examiner, which commenced its literary career only about five weeks ago, still awaits the award of the public. Both these prints are conducted by editors who, it is believed, are well qualified for the task which they have undertaken. Charitable Institutions — Dispensary. — This institution was esta- blished twelve years ago, for the relief of tlie poor who are unable to pay for medical attendance and, advice. It is patronised by most of the medical practitioners in town, who attend in regular rotation, and cheerfully render their gratuitous assistance. The expenses incurred by medicines, house rent, &c. are defrayed by subscriptions among the inhabitants at large. The subscriptions * Chambers* History. AYR. K n 562 AYRSHIRE. have usually covered the expenditure. These facta demoustrate, that there exists in the mind of the public a conviction of the utility of the institution* The town is divided into fourteen dis- tricts ; these are apportioned among the medical geotlemeO) as near as possible to their respective locations, and each is taken in every day charge by a surgeon, for the period of at least twelve consecutive months. This plan has fully realized the anticipations of its advocates: While it has diminished the expenditure, it has by no means pressed heavily upon the medical attendants, and they have had the satisfaction of doing something like justice to their patients. The average income and expenditure is L. 50. During the year 1835, the cases admitted for treatment were 243, being somewhat more than an average number since the comraenceme&t. During that year, there were comparatively few epidemic diseases. The list of diseases contains only five cases of small^pox, all of which terminated favourably. The number of fever cases amoont* ed to 45, of these five were fatal. In 1831, there were 105 eases of fever; and in 1832, the appalling number of 246. Since that period, the ravages of this disease have been comparatively slight. During 1833, the admissions under that head amoimted to 43» and in 1834 only to 15. Savings Bank, — The savings bank was instituted in June 1821^ and is found to be of great utility. The depositors are chiefly la* bourers, operatives, and maid«&ervants. At the oomraeneement of the institution, many of these classes did not well understand its nature ; and some of them even suspected that the Government had some design on their purses. But explanations by the clergy- men, and the publication of the annual reports, have completely removed their suspicions. They mow appreciate its merits, and avail themselves of the opportunity thus offered to them, to depo-* sit their savings where they are perfectly secure, and constantly increasing by the accumulation of interest. The bank receives sums from Is. to L. 10. The depositors are required to withdraw their savings when they amount to L. 10, being such a sum as an- other bank will receive.^ And many of them have actually trans- ferred this sum to the other banks, and finding themselves richer than they ever expected to become, they have taken courage and opened new accounts. The number of the individuals that have taken the benefit of the institution since its commencement, to the 31st of May 1837, is 3156. The number that had acooants open at the same date, 9.55, KILMARNaCK. 563 Friendly Societies. — There are 37 Friendly Soc^ties in the towD) some of which are of recent formation, and others have existed for more than twenty years. In some of them» the mem* bers are all females, but in most of them they are maies. In one of the former, the object is to provide for female servants who have become infirm, or who are worn out by age and labour : Another, the Kilmarnock Female Benevolent Society, which has existed for thirty years, and which has been eminently useful, extends its as- sistance to poor females in general : Another, which is supported by gentlemen, provides the same objects towards poor males. Poor and Parochial Funds. — Pauperism, which had been kept in check while the funds for the support of the poor were raised by voluntary contribution, is now, under the compulsory system of assessment, on the increase. The number of natives of the sister isle, who have acquired a residence in the parish, and whose names stand upon the pauper's roll, is considerable ; and, notwithstand- ing noble exceptions, there is much more, than once there was, of a disposition among many of our own poor to look upon parochial relief as a right rather than a pain&l resort. The lowest sum allowed to any pauper is 2s. a month, the highest 8s., unless in very peculiar circumstances. House-rents are paid for paupers to the amount of about L. 120 yearly. The number of cases at present on the poor's roll is about 277 ; and as many of these eases include families or more individuals than one, the number of persons receiving some aid is perhaps 500. The year's assessment may be said to average about L. 1500(r Formerly, the assessment was raised in equal proportions from the town and country heritors. Afterwards, four-tenths^ were furnish- ed by the country heritors, and six-tenths by the town ; but by a late judgment of the Court of Session, it has been decided that the assessment shall be laid on, one-half on the whole heritable property, and the other on the means and substance of the haill inhabitants of the town and parish ; and as the town rental consi- derably exceeds that of the country, the proportion is altered to ' rartier more than seven-tenths to the town, and less than three- tenths upon the landward part of the parish. Under the voluntary mode of assessment, the chief part of the town's share' was, at one period, made up by collections at the church doors of churchmen and Dissenters ; but as matters now stand, there is an assessment laid on the means and substance of the inhabitants by stent-mas- ters, appointed to estimate the ability of each rate-payer. Under 564 AYRSHIRE. the head of legacies and mortifications, it falls to be stated, that the late Dr Hunter of London Tested money in the funds to yield L. 50 a-year to the poor of Kilmarnock. The late William Parker, Esq. of London, left L. 1000, of which the interest goes to the same objects ; and the late William Paterson, Esq. of Ayr, be- queathed L. 90 a-year, to be laid out in small annuities to decayed persons. /Vw(?n*.— There is no jail in the town, and criminals, after a short detention in the police-office, are transmitted to the county prison at Ayr. The police buildings, with town offices, were erect- ed in 1806; and since then, a police establishment- has been or- ganized, composed of seven or eight officers, very effectively su- jperintended. In the absence of a sheriff-substitute, the criminal cases disposed of are of a comparatively trivial nature ; the fines inflicted being appropriated to the support of the establishment Fairs, — There are three fairs held in the course of the year; one on the second Tuesday of May, for the sale of cattle; another on the last Thursday of July, for horses, black-cattle, and wool ; and the third, on the last Thursday of October, for the sale of horses. There is, besides, a weekly market held on Friday, at which there is a regular supply of cattle, sheep, and pigs, but- ter, cheese, and eggs ; and a grain market, recently revived, la well attended on the same day by farmers and dealers. Inns and Alehouses. — The number of licensed inns and.alehouses is about 150, and the evidences of intemperance are here, as else- where, in our day unhappily but too manifest. There are, however, few public-houses of the more degraded sort, common in larger towns, and the police are extremely vigilant in preventing them from making any undue encroachments upon the Lord's Day.* * llie writers of this article are mucb indebted to Mr Guthrie of Mount, the curacy of whose vtatistical information is well known in the district. The account* of geology and agriculturei especially, are giTen nearly in his own words. March 1839. PARISH OF SYMINGTON. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. THOMAS SMITH WHARRIE, A. M. MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Thb name of this parish is derived from a person who formerly resided here, called SimoD Lockhart ; Simon's town or Symington. Situation. — The village is situated on a gentle eminence near the centre of the parish. It commands a fine view of the Frith of Clyde, where vessels are seen sailing to and fro. Ailsa Rock is seen in the distance, also the fertile plains of Cunningham, with numerous enclosures, belts, clumps of planting, and gentlemen's seats. These rich and delightful views are bounded on the north, by the cloud-capped Benlomond, and adjacent mountains ; on the ' west, by the romantic Isliand of Arran ; and on the south, by the high hills near Galloway. Boundaries. — This parish is bounded on the north, by Dundo-» nald parish ; on the east, by Riccarton parish ; on the south, by Craigie parish ; and on the west, by the parish of Monkton, and js nearly of a parallelogram figure, being about 4 miles in length, ^ and 1^ broad. It contains nearly 5 squares miles. Geology and Mineralogy. — Greyish and blue whinstone abound in this parish, nmning in beds across the country, at no great dis- tance from the surface ; and it is, in some places, above the surface to the height of 12 feet. Around the village, plenty of rotten rock is to be had ; but as it is sofit, it is not used except for drains. Soil. — The soil throughout the parish is, in general, clayey, on a hard subsoil. Around the village, it is of a light dry nature, lying on a rotten rock. Part of the parish is of a soft loam or mossy nature, generally lying on a fine clay bottom. Mines. — Formerly, there was a coal-pit in the parish, but now it is given up. There are numerous whinstone quarries in the pa- lish, used generally for road metal. Limestone is to be had, but it does not repay the expense of mining it. Freestone is abundant, * Drawn up by Mr John Dunlop. 566 AYRSHIRE. there being a freestone quarry at the east end of the parish, which supplies all the neighbourhood with stones for the erecUon of houses. As it lies on the margin of the Glasgow and Portpatrick road, and near to Kilmarnock, a great number of stones are used for build- ings in that town. It is rather a coarse stone ; finer kinds being procured elsewhere for comers, windows, &c. Springs. — Plenty of good spring water is to be found in this pa- rish, where the inhabitants ha?e dug wells that afibrd a supply even in the severest drought Plantations. — There are no natural forests in this parish ; and the plantations consist mostly of clumps or belts* The proprietor of Dankeith, about the year 1740, planted several belts and clumps of planting on his property, dressed a few c^ his fields with com- post, and was among the first who introduced rye-grass into Ayr- shire. ' About the year 1770, Dr Fuilerton of Rosemount, on his return from India, rebuilt the mansion-house at Rosemount in a modern style, cultivated his land, and tastefully ornamented the grounds with belts of planting, giving employment to a great num- ber of poor families. II. — Civil History. Land'Otvners. — These are. Lieutenant- Colonel William Kel$o of Dankeith ; Lady Mary M ontgomerie, who is patroness ; George Bogle, Esq. of Rosemount ; William Hay Boyd, Esq. of Townend ; James Ogilvy Fairlie, Esq. of Whitehill ; Mrs Fairlie of William- field ; the Honourable David Boyle, Lord Justice- Clerk ; Robert Rankin, Esq. of Muirhouse ; James Campbell, Esq. of Craigie ; Thomas Davidson, Esq. of Knockendale; and John Wilson, Esq*^ of W^iitelees. Parochial Iieffister8,-^^TheBe have been kept so far back as the year 1642, but very irregularly till about 1780. Antiquities. — This parish can scarcely boast of any antiquities. Formerly, there was a round mound called the Law-hill, at the foot of the village, partly natural and partly artificial, when the proprietor, Mr Boyd, in improving his land, caused the Law-bill to be levelled with the adjacent field. Those employed in doing so, found at no great depth firom the surface, several arrow-heads, made of iron, most of them barbed and very rudely constructed. They also found combs made of horn, in a pretty good state of preservation. These are in the possession of William H. Boyd of Townend, and the Rev. Mr Wfaarrie. Tliere is also an eminence near Helenton, 4 SYMINGTON. 567 . called the Mote-hill, upon which a ruin stands ; but of which tradi- tion takes no notice. Modem Buildings. — These are Williamfield House, which was erected abouteight years ago by Mrs Fairlie of WillianUSield ; its erec<- tioD and the surrounding improvements cost upwards of L. 20,000. A large conseryatory is at one end of the house, in which is a large collection of rare and valuable plants ; and in front of the house, there is an artificial lake, more than a quarter of a mile in length, in which there is an island planted with trees and shrubs. Water-fowls are seen swimming in abundance, both wild ^nd do- mesticated. Townend House is beautifully situated on an emi- nence. It is built of dressed whin rock, with hewn freestone corners, &C. which has a beautiful effect Dankeith and Rosemount bouses are of an older date, very commodious, finely situated, and surrounded with thriving plantations, &c. IIL — Population. Tiik«a in 1755, . 359 1792, • 610 1801, . em 1811, . 656 1621, . 744 1831, • 884 Population in 1831, Males, 419, females, 465 1838, Mides, 374, fcrnales, 451 Total, 825. Decrease since 1881 , 59 The supposed cause of the decrease of population since 1831 is the great niunber of tradesmen, who were employed in erecting Williamfield House, leaving the parish after the erection was fi- nished. Persons residing in the village, .... 276 in the country, .... 549 Average number of births for the last seven years, about - 15 of deaths, ----- 9 of marriages, . . - . ]2 Males under 15 years of age, - - - - 133 Males above 15 years of age, .... 241 FemaleB under 15 years of age, .... 1^ Females above 15 years of age, .... 291 Persons upwards of 70 years of age, - - - 10 Individnak and £imiiies of independent Ibrtuae r cai d to g in the parish, 5 Proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, - • ]0 Unmarried men, bachelors and widowers, upwards of 50 years of age» 12 Unmarried women upwards of 45 yean of age, . - 7 Families in the parish, - - - - 1 76 chiefly employed id agrieuHure, ... 97 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, - 55 Average number of children in each family, . - 4 Inhabited houses, - - - . 146 Uninhabited houses, - - . • 7 Blind persons in the parish, . . .2 During the last three years, there have been 8 illegitimate births in the parish. 568 AYRSHIRC. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Number of acres in the parish, - 3660 in plantations, about 900 The remainder is nearly all arable land, and under cultivation. Woods. — The forest trees in this parish are mostly ash, alder, beech, birch, elm, larch, silver, spruce, and Scotch firs, besides oak, some of which are of a large size. All of them have been planted, and are in general kept in pretty good order. Rent — The average rent of land in this parish is about L. 1, 15s. for the imperial acre ; but some of the land around the village lets as high as Ia 3, I2s. per imperial acre. Cows are grazed during summer for about L. 3 each ; sheep at about L. 1 each, dur- ing both summer and winter. Live-Stock. — The common breed of cattle for the dairv is of the Ayrshire kind. There are 400 dairy cows kept in the parish, besides 121 young cattle. The draught horses are mostly of the Clydes- dale breed. There are about 90 employed for agricultural pur- poses, besides 14 young horses. Theje are about 41 horses used for harness and the saddle. The breed of swine is various. About 92 swine are at present in the parish. Many of the cottars do not think themselves comfortable without having pork of their own feeding. There are 550 sheep in the parish, of the Cheviot, Lei- cester, and black-faced breed. Improvements^ ^-c.-— Within these few years, the land in this pa- rish has been greatly improved by furrow-draining, which has greatly increased the bulk of crops. The general duration of leases is from sixteen to nineteen years. The farm-steadings, in general, are very good, being built of stones and lime. The roofs are covered with oat straw, and a number of them are slated. Qtiarries. — There is a freestone quarry in the east end of the parish, called Spittlehill, the materials of which are used for erect • ing houses. The stones are raised by iron levers, wedges, and mells. ' There are several whinstone quarries in the parish, the ma- terials of which are raised for road metal, &c Produce, — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Oats, - 933 imperial acres at L. 5, - L. 4665 Green crop, 154 10, . 1540 Hay, - 354 2, lOi^. - 885 Pasture. - 1916 1, 58. . 2398 15 Plantations, 300 - . - 100 Gardens, orchards, &c. - ... 300 I SYMINGTON. 569 MifceUancous produce not enumerated under any of the foregoing heads, 100 Rearing of 92 swine, - - . - 92 Total return from land, - - L. 10,080 15 V. — Parochial Economy. Markets. — Kilmarnock, at the distance of five miles from the village, is the nearest market-town. Means of Communication, — A penny post-office is established in the village, where letters are received daily from Kilmarnock and Ayr. The Glasgow and Portpatrick road runs through the whole length of the parish, nearly four miles, on which run daily five stage-coaches, the Glasgow and Portpatrick mail-coaches, besides a great number of carriers' waggons, &c Thorn is chiefly used for fences : but there is sometimes a mix- ture of thorn, beech, and privets. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated near the cen- tre of the parish, being about two miles distant from its farthest extremity. At what time it was built, is uncertain. It received an addition in 1797, when the whole underwent a sufficient repair. It can accommodate with ease 400 people. There are thirty or forty free sittings in the church. The manse was built about the year 1 786, and re-slated in 1838. The stipend consists of 120 bolls of oatmeal, and 120 bolls of bar- ley, Linlithgow measure, payable by the fiar prices of the county, besides L. 22, Is. in money, and L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion ele- ments. The glebe contains about five imperial acres, and may be worth about L. 15 per annum. There is a Dissenting meeting held once a fortnight in a gar- ret room ; but there are not above five or six Dissenting fami- lies in the parish. Divine service is generally well attended by all ranks of people. The number of communicants are about 240, not including strangers who join in that ordinance. The church collections for the poor average about L. 26 a year. Education. — The parochial school is the only one in the parish, where from seventy to eighty children are taught English gram- mar, writing, arithmetic, Latin, Greek, French, &c« The salary of the schoolmaster is L. 34, 5s. lOd. The school fees may ave- rage about L. 40 a year. The schoolmaster has a dwelling-house, school- room, and garden. Poor and Parochial Funds. — About eight poor people receive monthly 5s. each, besides having their house rents paid out of the poor's fund. A considerable number aUo receive assistance, who 570 AYRSHIRE. are not on the monthly roll of paupers. The annual amotint of collections made at the church for behoof of the poor, is about L. 26 : the poor have also the interest of L. 100, left by the late Mrs Fullerton of Rosemount When the funds for the support of the poor have been expend- ed, the heritors voluntarily subscribe, according to their respective valuations, for what may be required for that purpose. Irms^ tfc — There are six houses in theparidi where spirits and ales are sold ; three of these are in the village, the other three are on the Glasgow and Portpatrick road^ where the stage-coaches and mails change horses. Fueh — Coal is the only kind of fuel used in this parish : it is procured from Fairlie, Gatehead, and Caprington coaKpits, in the adjoining parishes of Dundonald and Riccarton. March 1839. PARISH OF BEITH. PRESBYTERY OF IRVINE, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. GEORGE COLVILLE, MINISTER.* I* — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The name of the parish, according to Chalmer8» i& Celtic, signifying AtrcA. There is reason to believe that the whole of the district was once covered with wood. Many names of places indicate their derivation from this circumstance, as fVooddde, Threepwood^ Fuhcoodhead^ Roughtoood^ &c. &c. Extent^ Boundaries^ ^e. — The town lies in latitude 55*^ 47' north, and in longitude 4*^ 39' west It consisted, at the beginning of the seventeenth century, of a few houses set down at the kirk, but now contains upwards of 300. The parish lies in the form of a triangle. Its greatest length is from south-east to south-west, which is 4 miles. A small part of it, in the soath<«ast, lies iii Renfrewshire, having been disjoined from Neilston and anoezed to Beith. This was done about 1649, at which tame the boonds of the different presbyteries in the synod of Glasgow were care- fully perambulated, with the view of forming; new parishes where required, and of annexing or disjoining lands, to suit the coove- • This Account has liccn furnished hy James Dobie, Esq. of Crummock. BEITH* 571 nience of the people. The parish contaios 11,060 acred Scots measure, of which 500 are in Renfrewshire. It is bounded on the north, by the parish of Lochwinnoch; on the east, by Neilston and Dunlop ; on the south, by Kilwinning and Dairy ; and on the west, by Kilbiroie Loch. Topographical Appearance. — The surface is slightly undulated throughout, and consequently does not present the varied features of hill and dale, nor any of the picturesque beauties generally to be met with in districts of a more broken and diversified aspect The highest land is in the north-east quarter of the parish, from which it gently slopes to the west and south-west, and the least elevated portion of it is that bounded by Kilbirnie Loch. The parish may be said to occupy the eastern summit of the land bounding the valley, which extends between the River Clyde and the coast of Ayr^ire. Along this strath a stream runs from Kil- birnie Loch northward, through Lochwinnoch to the Clyde, and the Garnock, after approaching within half a mile of Kilbirnie Loch, turns to the south and falls into the sea at Irvine. It is through this valley that the Ardrossan Canal was to have been formed ; and, as Kilbirnie Loch was its summit level, and being only about ninety feet above the sea, the line presented great faci- lities for such an undertaking. In 1805, an act of Parliament was passed, authorizing the canal to be made ; but this undertaking having proved far more expensive than had been anticipated, was completed only between Glasgow and Johnstone. In 1625, an act was passed to form a railway in its stead ; but this was not done ;• and, in 1837, an act was passed for forming a great line of railway through the same valley, from Glasgow by Paisley and Irvine to Ayr, with a branch to Kilmarnock, — which undertaking has recently been commenced. It has been proposed to form a line of railway from Kilmarnock, by Cumnock, Dumfries, and Carlisle, to join the Liverpool railway at Preston, which, if carried into effect, would make this the great line of communication from London to Glas- gow and the west coast. As already stated, the lowest elevation of the parish is about 90 feet ; its highest is on Cuff Hill, which is 652 feet. From this hill, which will be more particularly no- ticed afterwards, and from several of the adjoining uplands, the prospect is unrivalled in the district for extent, variety, and mag- nificence. To the south and west are visible the mountain ranges of Galloway and Carrick, the spacious estuary of the Clyde, the Craig of Ailsa, and the lofty peaks of Arran ; while, northward the 572 AYRSHIRE. horizon is bounded by the serrated ridges of G>wal and the wavy outline of the far receding hills of Perthshire, in advance of which, iu proud pre-eminence, stands Ben Lomond, the monarch of the scene* The scenery inclosed by so noble a frame-work, especially when its varied features are boldly relieved by the rays of the declining sun, is well calculated to gladden the eye and exhilarate the heart of the spectator. It may not inaptly be briefly characterized in more appropriate terms, than we can command, as being composed of ** Hills and dales, and woods and lawns and spires, And glittering towns, and gilded streams." There are within the parish twenty-four miles of turnpike and forty miles of parish roads, which occupy 224 acres ; and there are four corn and four lint-mills within its bounds. The parish was accurately surveyed by Mr Robert Aitken, land-surveyor, Beith, who, in 1829, published an atlas of the different parishes in Cunninghame. Hydrography. — The river Lugton takes its rise from Lochlibo, and runs south-west through the parish for about three miles, and, after passing through the parish of Kilwinning, joins the Gamock below Eglinton Castle. The Dusk rises at Threepwood, and falls into the Gamock at Dalgarvan, below Dairy. There are no other streams in the parish which merit particular notice. At Blaeloch- head there is a small lake, which is thus noticed by Pont, the early topographer of Cunninghame : ^* Blaa Loche, ed est, lacuspalli- dus, so named because qwhen the firmament is most serene and cleir then is it palide and dead-coloured, contrair to all other in- corrupt and sueit vatters." This loch has been partially drained. There was in the days of Pont a lake in front of Hazlehead Cas- tle, but this has been entirely drained, so has the loch of Boghall, as will be more particularly noticed afterwards. Geology and Mineralogy. — No granite nor other primitive rock has been found in this parish. The greatest portion of it is formed of what is sometimes called the great coal formation, and by Wer* ner, the independent coal formation, and is classed by several au- thors as constituting the upper series of the transition or interme- diate rocks. A considerable extent consists of trap rocks, especi- ally on the west and south-west parts of the parish ; and in some places, they rise into considerable hills. The coal measures extend along the whole of the west boun- dary of the parish, for some miles to the south. On the east part of the boundary, on the estate of Woodside, William Patrick, Esq. the proprietor of that estate, has found extensive beds of limestone. BEITH. 573 and he has also there found good brick clay, and established a manufactory of draining tiles. To the west of this estate, there are appearances of coal in the lands of Willowyard, belonging to Alexander Shedden, Esq. ; and in the adjoining lands of Crawfield, belonging to Lady Montgomerie, a three and a half feet coal has been discovered by boring, and is now being wrought. The only other coal known in the parish was, for some years, wrought at Balgray, but has been relinquished on account of its rapid dip and rise. From Kilbirnie loch southward, the surface rises, in the distance of about two miles, to an elevation of 330 feet above the tideway on the Clyde. The surface is somewhat undulatory and irregular, and so are the strata underneath, so far as they have been exposed ; but the changes in the surface do not correspond to those of the stratification below, the dip of the strata being in general to the south-west At a mean elevation of about 330 feet, an extensive field of limestone occupies, with very few interruptions, several square miles in extent. This limestone has been wrought extensively for many years in the lands of Broadstone, belonging to Hugh Brown, Esq. and in those of Hazlehead, Trearne, and Broadstone, belonging to John Shedden Patrick, Esq. and it is of such good quality, and wrought with so great facility, that the sale extends to Paisley, Greenock, and other places equally distant, and amounts to about 7000 chalders yearly, each chalder consisting of sixteen bolls of slacked lime, of four Winchester bushels per boll. The formation of the Glasgow and Ayr railroad must extend the sales both to the east and west The limestone, which has usually been wrought, varies from 18 to 20 feet in thickness, and rests upon a coal of 20 inches, separated from the limestone by a few inches of shale. In many places, this bed of limestone approaches thesurface, and is wrought with small expense; to the dip it is overlaid by (or takes on, as the miners express it,) in succession, the following strata : 1st, Shale, 2 feet ; 2d, Coal, I foot, 1 inch ; 3d, Clay, containing a thin bed of limestone, 6 feet; 4th, A large body of limestone, of various thickness, from 12 to upwards of 50 feet, and rising into considerable hills. The price of lime at the kilns varies from 9s. to 12s. per chalder, and may average about 10s. 6d. To burn a chalder of lime will require about 12 hundred weight of coals, which, including the cartage, will cost between 58. and 6s. per chalder. The quarrying and breaking 574 AYRSHIRE. the stones, leading them to the kiln-bead, and Glling the kiln, will i cost about ds. 6d. per chalder, and the lordship or rent to the proprietor of the lime rock is about Is. per chalder, so that the profit to the tacksmen is very small. Eight bolls of lime -shells are sold at the kiln as a chalder of lime, and will form two good cart- loads. The 8 bolls of shells, if well burned, will produce 20 bolls of slacked lime, so that the 8 bolls of shells are better than 16 bolls of slacked lime. The whole of this important field of lime rock is of the best quality, and is found on analysis to contain from 90 to 95 per cent, of pure carbonate of lime. It consists chiefly of organic remains, the upper portions being almost en*- tirely composed of encrinites, with a mixture of bivalve shells. The whole is sufficiently hard to receive a high polish as marble, and has been wrought into chimney-pieces, tables, &c. to a eopside** rable extent. The field of limestone crops out on the north, for about two miles, along the south bank of the Powgree-burn, which se- parates the baronies of Broadstone and Hazlehead from the ba- rony of Beith, and it appears near GifTen Castle, and in various other places for some miles to the southward, and may affi>rd for ages to come a plentiful supply both for agricultural and architec* tnral purposes to the whole country, extending from Glasgow to the west coast. Below this limestone is a bodv of white clav, into which bores have been inserted in several places, one of them to the de|>th of 27 fathoms, without discovering any change of material. Clay ironstone, a mineral of great importance, especially when associated with coal and limestone, has been found in va- rious parts of the parish, from the north to the south extremity, f)articularly along the banks of the waters of Dusk and Powgree, and appears to exist in great abundance. On the lands of Duskrigg and Laverodc Hall, the property of John S. Patrick Esq. and, on the lands of Rougbwood, and other contiguous lands belonging to William Patrick, Esq. and on the lands of Craighouse, belonging to Robert Montgomerie, Esq., ?««• rious beds of ironstone, favourably situated for being wrought, have been discovered ;. one on the bank of the Dusk is 18 inches in thickness, and another 4 inches, the two beds being almost in contact On the Powgree burn, a bed of 8 inches, and another of 6 inches, are favourably situated for being wrought Many others, and various strata containing nodules of iron-ore, exist in other localities, some of which yield, upon analysis, 90 per cent, of BEITH. 575 pure iron. The average of the whole specimens collectedy amount- iog to upwards of twenty in number, as analysed by Dr Fyfe of Edinburgh, was found to yield nearly 29 per cent, of iron, being somewhat ttiore than is afforded by the analysis of the South Wales ironstone, as reported in the Transactions of the Natural History Society of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Freestone is also found in the parish, and a freestone pavement quarry is wrought in the lands of Willowyard, near the line of the Glasgow and Ayr Railway. The trap rocks, comprehending whinstone and basaltic dikes, which in some places rise above the surface, afford excellent ma- terials for keeping the public roads in repair. There are several dikes of basalt which run across the whole strata, in the line of dip, being from south-east to north-west.* Climate, 8fc. — The prevailing winds are from the south-west and north-east, which bring heavy rains. The people are on the whole as healthy as in any other parish in the district. In the mortality bills between 1825 and 1833, there were several persons in each year, except in 1830, who died between 85 and 90. In the same period, there were 7 between 90 and 95, and 7 above 95. This place was twice visited by the cholera. In 1831, when the disease made its appearance at Sunderland, and was making pro- gress to the north, a board of health was instituted here, and all sanatory means adopted which skill and prudence could suggest. In the summer of 1832, four fatal cases occurred, and it was with diflSculty people could be persuaded to attend the funerals. This visitation passed over thus sKghtly, but in 1834 it was most severe* The first death occurred on 5th September, and until 20th Oc-* tober, the disease raged with fearful sway. There were 208 cases^ and 105 deaths, some of which were awfully sudden. The minds of the people became more composed than on the previous occa- sion, and the funerals were conducted with the usual decorum. Liberal subscriptions in aid of the sufferers were made^ and much sympathy evinced towards chose who were so unexpectedly bereav- ed of their parents and relatives. Botany, — This parish is rich in its vegetable productions as well as in its mineral, and cannot fail to be interesting to the botanist. A great variety of plants are to be found within a small compass. * This department has been furnished by James Adam, Esq. W. S., and that on Botany, by Alexander Spiers, Esq. Surgeon in Beith. 576 AYRSHIRE. This is chiefly, owing to the sudden elevation of the ground : the lowest part of the parish being only 95 feet above the level of the sea^ while the highest is 652, being a difference of 557 feet in the short distance of two miles and a half, — thus presenting a diversified sur- face, and a variety of soil and climate, giving origin to numerous genera and species. The following list, beginning at the lowest part of the parish, enumerates the rarest of the plants. Lobelia Dortmanna, habitat west end of Echium vulgare, Bigholm^hill Kilbirnie Loch Gentiana campestrisi Do Littorella lacustris, Do. Knautia arvensis, Do. Cardamine amara. Do. Drosera rotundifolia, Barkip Moss Plajitago maritima, Do. Pinguicula vulgaris. Do. Galium Witheringii, Do. Borago officinalis, Coldstream Mill CircsBa alpina, Kersland Bank Nymphsa alba, lakes at Brown Muir Rubus saxatilis. Do- Nuphar lutea. Do. Oxalis acetoi^ella, Do. Melanipyrum pratense, Barr Craigs Lysimachia nemorum. Do. Saxifraga umbrosa, Do. Inula Helenium, Laigh Mains Orobus tuberosus, Do. Arundo phragmites, Bath Meadow Linum catharticum, Cuif-hill Scutellaria galericulata, Maius-bill Botrychiuni lunaiia, Do. Agrimonia Eupatoria, Woodside Bum Sedum album, Do. TroUius Europxus, Bigholm Meadow. Hippuris vulgaris, Cuff Pond This is the lucken gowan of Burns. Veronica scuteliata Do. Menyanthes trifoliata, Bigholm Meadow Pyrola rotundifolia, Caldwell Woods. There is, generally speaking, a want of ornamental trees and of plantations in this parish. Some exceptions, however, must be made to this general remark. Caldwell House is situated in a large park, richly clothed with wood, and many of the trees are of great size and beauty. Hazlehead presents several avenues of fine old beeches, and on some other places of Mr S. Patrick's property there are young thriving plantations. Mr Pratt of Brown Muir planted, about four years ago. Brown Muir Hill, consisting of from twenty to thirty Scotch acres, which, a few years hence, will add greatly to the beauty of the parish. II. — Civil History. Antiquities f 8fc. — Of old, the parish consisted of two grand di- visions, the Barony of Beith, and the Lordship of Gifien, of which the lordship of Giffen was the most extensive. They are divid- ed by the stream called the Powgree, which falls into the Garnock near the west end of Kilbirnie Loch. The barony of Beith was gifted by Richard de Moreville, the son and successor of Hugh de Moreville, constable of Scotland, and Lord of Cunningham, to the Abbey of Kilwinning. Avicia de Lancaster, the wife of Richard de Moreville, gave the lands of Beith, Bath, and Threepwood to the monastery, in puram et perpetuam eleesmosynamy and though from the loss of the chartulary of Kilwinning, the exact date of BEITH, 577 the grant cannot be ascertained, it must have been prior to 1189 and 1191, in which years the Lady Ayicia and her husband died. Long prior to these -dates, Beith was the occasional residence of St Inan, a confessor of some celebrity, whose principal place of abode was at Irvine. He flourished about 839. On the Cuff Hill, in the parish of Beith, there is a cleti in the rock, which is still called St Inan's Chair ; and at a short distance from it, a well of excellent water, called St Inan's Well. From the Callendar of Scots Saints, we find that the festival of this saint was celebrated on the 18th of August ; and to this day, there is a fair at Beith held on the corresponding day, old style. Tradition still hears that this fair used to be held on the Cuff Hill. It was removed to Beith after the town had increased in population, and became a more suitable place for a market It is one of the principal fairs in the county. The fair is vulgarly pronounced Tenants Day ; but this is evidently a corruption arising from the final letter of Saint, being sounded with the name Inan. Similar corruptions occur in Tantony, which is a corruption of St Antony ; and Tau-* drey, which is a corruption of St Audrey. It is worthy of notice that this corruption, and the fact of the celebration of St Inan's festival at Beith, have been overlooked by the learned author of Caledonia, who supposes the corruption to be that of St Tennant's day, or St Thenna's day. But the Cuff Hill has antiquities much earlier than the days of St Inan. On the north declivity of the hill, there is a rocking- stone of considerable size, which can be set in motion by the slightest touch. Behold yon huge And unhewn sphere of living adamant, Which, poised by magic, rests its central weight On yonder pointed rock : firm as it seems, Such is its stranse and virtuous property^ It moves obsequious to the gentlest touch Of him whose heart is pure ; but to a traitor, Though even a giant's prowess moved his arm, It stands as firm as Snowdon. MatonU CoraciaeMB. This stone is of common trap. Its specific gravity is 2.890 ; its figure an oblong spheroid ; its contents 141 cubic feet; and weight 1 1 tons 7 cwts. On the south side of the hill, on the lands of Cuff, belonging to Robert Spiers, Esq. writer in Beith, there stood four stones. In the space between them were found calcined bones and earth, having the appearance of being formed from the decay of animal substance. This is Supposed to have been a place of sacrifice* AYR. o o 578 AYRSHIRE. At the bottom of the hill, north of the rocking-stone, there are the remains of a circular trench, and of some building. The place is called Kirklie Green* On a plain at the south bottom of the hill, about twenty-five years ago, were discovered several stone coffins un- der a large cairn of stones. The total length of the cairn is 72 feet ; its breadth 30 feet ; its height 10 feet. In one of them were found some fragments of human bones, with a small bead of burned clay, and a piece of copper like a defaced coin ; but there was no appearance of the urn. The usual indication of Christian burial was wanting, as the coffins did not lie east and west The cairn which contained these coffins, and a considerable part of which is still left entire, has been enclosed and surrounded with a planta- tion by Dr Robert Patrick of Hazlehead, the late proprietor. On a field in the adjoining lands of Townend of Threepwood, about thirty-five years ago, there was found a large vase of burned clay, of a size capable of containing about six gallons. In it there wad a considerable quantity of burned bones. The vase broke on being handled and exposed to the air, and soon crumbled into dust Within it there was found a small open urn of hard burned clay, and at a short distance from it, another small urn was found by itself; probably the larger one in which this last had been placed was destroyed without being noticed. They indicated no knowledge of art, and seemed as if formed with the finger and thumb. The small urns were doubtless for receiving the ashes of the brain and heart, while those of the body were lodged in the larger vessel. In one of them were two perforations, as if for fix- ing it to some other body ; probably to the larger urn, in which it was found, or for receiving wires for its own lid or cover. These are antiquities, which, as Sir Thomas Brown says. Time anti- quates ; for we have no floating tradition as to their origin on this hill or its vicinity. The two modes of sepulture here exemplified, the stone coffin in one place, and the cinereal urn in another, probably indicate different ages ; and the one first used may, have been as much unknown to those who adopted the last as both are to ourselves. Some are of opinion that these funereal remains prove that a battle was fought on this spot, and that the tumuli contain the re- mains of the chiefs who fell in the conflict There is a hill at a little distance southwards, called Gillies Hill, and this is supposed to be the place where the followers of the army appeared. We know that it was conmion in the warfare of sUbh remote periods, for the BBITH* 579 women and children to be placed in the rear, and to use every method in their power to encourage those engaged in the combat; but this notion of a battle is purely fanciful, and who fought, fell, fled, or conquered at this *^ famous victory/' must remain for ever undescribed by poet or historian. But if we view this hill as a seat of Druidism, we have a dawning of light. Dr Jamieson is of opinion that Druidism was not extinct in Scotland in the age of Columba, 563-597, and there is reason for believing that it was restored by the Saxons, after it had been abolished by the Roman emperors. K so, it must have been the religion of this part of the country, a short time previous to the age of St Inan. Holding this hill as a seat of Druidism, we have a corroborative testimony in the etymology of the name. It is called Cuff^ Hill. Now we learn from Bede, that the chief-priest of the Druids was called Coi/if Outfit or Cuivu Either of these names can be easily cor- rupted into Cuffi or Cuff, and thus the' hill may have received its appellation from being the seat of the Druidical worship. Besides, the word Cuffoethj in the ancient British language, signifies the Holy Place^ ** Cor Kyveoth," which is pronounced Cuffoethj is the name of Stonehenge in that language. This opinion is sup*- ported by that of Dr Macpherson, in his Critical Dissertations, who thinks Coifi was the common title of every Druidical superin*- tendant of spiritual affairs. It is now stated as a plausible guess at the origin of the name of the hill. There are other places of similar name, and which probably had the same origin. Thus, in the Acta Dominorum Concilii, under date 6th March 1491, there is a case, where Gilbert Kennedy of the Coiff'vs^ defender, and Fer- gus Kennedy of Cardonald is pursuer; and, in Pitcaim's Trials, Thomas Kennedy of Coiff^ is one of a long list of that name, di- lated of a cruel slaughter in 1528. These places are in different parts of the country, and are noticed only as tracing the corruption of the word Coifi^ which is not so marked as the substitution of Tenant for St Inan. On the lands of Hill of Beith, there is one of those mootfaills on which our ancestors received the award of their judges. We have good evidence of such places being used as the seat of legislation as well as judicature, but when the custom ceased, it is difficult to say, for, like many other customs, it disappeared gradually, and the change is not noticed by historians. The moothill of Beith being in a barony belonging to the church, was oi course the place of judgment from which the Abbot of Kilwinning ad- 660 AYRSHIRE. ministered justice to his vassals and tenants. The hill itself is smaller than others in the district. There is a finer specimen at the town of Dairy, which is still denominated the CaurthiU, and there is another near the mansion-house of Lainshaw. The lands on which the one in Beith stands, are, from this circumstance, call- ed the hill of Beith. They were early feued by the Abbot of Kilwinning, and for several generations belonged to a branch of the family of the Cunninghames, the same being sometimes de- signated of Hillj and sometimes of ^^ Hill of Beith." The residence of the Cunninghames was a square tower which stood not far from the moothill. It was removed about the middle of the last cen- tury. In Font's Cunninghame Typographized, it is styled a ^^ pretty building, veill planted, belonging to John Cunninghame." It is now the property of Hugh Brown, Esq, of Broadstone. Adjoiningthese lands is the farm of Boghall, which affords another article in the antiquities of this parish. In the map of Cunning- hame in Blau's Atlas, published in 1654, there is laid down a piece of water called the Loch of Boghall. This loch belonged to the Monastery of Kilwinning, and was of old called Loch Brand. In the Acta Dominorum Concilii, there is mention madeof acase, lOth December 1482, at the instance of the Abbot and Convent of Kil- winning against Robert Montgomery, son and heir to umquhile Robert Montgomery of Giffen, Knight, John Montgomery, his brother, Alexander Montgomery, Williatn Montgomery and James Kerr, who were accused of the dangerous destruction, and down-casting of the fosses and dikes of the loch called Loch Brand. The cause was continued, but the record does not state what was the reSult The Abbot of Kilwinning here mentioned must have been William Boyd, second son of Sir Thomas Boyd, of Kilmarnock, by Joannah Montgomery, daughter of Sir John Montgomery of Ardrossan. The lands of Boghall passed from the Montgomerys of Braidstane about 150 years ago. The loch was drained about 60 years ago, when firm stakes of oak and elm were found in the soil, and which had been used for fixing the nets for fishing. In the map of Cunninghame in Blau's Atlas, already mentioned, there is exhibited a cross on the northern boundary of the barony of Beith. The lands adjoining to the barony of Beith on the east and north belonged to the Abbacy of Paisley, and lay in the county of Renfrew, so that the cross was probably fixed as the boundary by consent of both of these religious houses. Their BEITII. 581 estates were divided by a stream called M uirburn, which falls into the loch of Lochwinnoch to the eastward of Kilbimie loch. Crosses were at an early period used in marking the boundaries of lord- ships and parishes, or lands given to monasteries. These were sometimes framed of wood, but were more commonly of stone, 'tis being more durable, and less easy of being removed. Crosses for landmarks are mentioned as early as 528, and afterwards became common. Kings and lords used them as tokens of dominion, and they were special landmarks of the templars and hospitalers. The form of the cross was used that no man for conscience sake should remove them. As already mentioned, the barony of Beith was the property of the monastery of Kilwinning, and was the largest and most valuable of their possessions ; and as the north- ern mark was not only the boundary of their property, but that of the parish and county, the cross must have been a serviceable landmark. Of its existence, there is now no trace, nor is its his* lory or fate remembered in the floating annals of tradition. In the barony of GifTen we have antiquities of another kind. One of the most powerful of the English families which settled in Scotland during the reign of David I., was that of De Moreville. The 6rst of them was Hugh, to whom the King made a grant of the whole lands of Cunninghame, and created him constable of Scotland, which office remained with his descendants for some ge- nerations. In the reign of William the Lion, the family of the De Morevilles gave the lands or lordship of GifTeyn to Walter De Mulcaster. This lordship comprehended the whole of that part of the parish which lies to the south and westward of the stream called the Powgree, and forms fully one-half in extent and value of the present parish. The rest of the parish consists of the ba'« rony of Beith, which, as before-mentioned, was given by the Da Morevilles to the monastery of Kilwinning. GifTen was given by Walter De Mulcaster to Alexander De Nenham as his subvassal. He granted to the monastery of Dryburgh a half caracute or 50 acres of land in the lordship of Giffen, at which a chapel to St Bridget had previously been founded by the monastery of Kilwin- ning, the ruins of which still exist, situated on a hill* which had been used as n burying-ground, with an uncommonly fine spring- well, called St Bridget's Well, at the bottom. The chapel must have fallen to ruins about the Reformation. This grant was part of the lands of Trearne, and was so minutely described by its na« tural boundaries, that the marches can still be traced. The mor-* 582 AYRSHIRE. tification was for the benefit of the souls of Richard De Moreville, William De Moreviile, Rolland of Galloway, and Elene De Mo- reville, his spouse. It was confirmed by Walter De Mulcaster the over lord, and his chatter was also ratified by Allan, son of Rolland, Constable of Scotland. The charter is in the Chartu- lary of Dryburgh. It bears no date, as was customary in those days ; but from the names of the parties, it must have been grant- ed between 1209 and 122& The lands of Treame now belong to Mr Patrick of Hazlehead. About this period the lands of Rough* wood, being a sub-barony of Giffen, belonged to a very ancient fa- mily of the name of Hammill, which is nov represented by Robert Montgomery of Craighouse, through female descent. . The daughter and heiress of Richard De Moreviile was mar- ried to Rolland, Lord of Galloway. Their son Allan, Lord of Galloway, succeeded to the estates of the De Morevilles, and be* came thus Lord of Cunninghame and C!onstable of Scotland. He had several daughters, but no son, and his estates were divided among his daughters. One of them was married to John Baliol ; another to an English nobleman of the name of De la Zouche, and . another to one of the Comyns. These families having all taken part with their near relation, John Baliol, in the contest with Bruce for the throne, their estates were forfeited by Bruce, and di- vided among his own followers, as the Stewarts, Flemings, Boyds Sempills, &c In this way, the estate of Gifien reverted to the Crown. In 1370, the first year of the reign of Robert II., a char- ter passed under the Great Seal, bestowing the lands of Gifien on Sir Hugh De Eglinton, who was married to Egedia, sister of the King, and widow of Sir James Lindsay of Crawford. Sir Hugh possessed great influence at court, and held several important ofiices. In 1361, he was Justiciary of Lothian, and in 1367, was appointed one of the Commissioners for a treaty with England. He left an only daughter, Elizabeth, who married John Montgomery of Eaglesham, whose descendants became. Earls of Eglinton. The estate of Gifien remained with this potent family for several centu- ries, being given as the messuage of the heir-apparent or master of Eglinton. It appears that, in 1452, John De Lyddale had right to the lands of Braidstane, a sub-barony of Giffen, but the right had reverted to the femily of Eglinton, as about ^hat time Braidstane and the lands of Hazlehead, another sub-barony of Giffen, were given off to younger sons of the Earl of Eglinton, and formed two distinct families, which contmued to hold their respective proper- s BEITH. 583 ties for several giBnerations, and produced some distinguished meni whose history might form an interesting narrative. Another part of the lordship of GiiTen was about the same period granted to the iamily of Mure of Caldwell, and forms that part of their estate si- tuated in the parish of Beith. The lands of Roughwood, which had been granted to the family of Hammill in the time of the De Morevilles, still belonged to them, and were retained by them until 1690, when they were acquired by Robert Shedden, merchant in Beith. They now belong to William Patrick, Esq. In 166^ Alexander, sixth. Earl of Eglinton, broke up the estate of Giffen, and feued out the greater part of it in farms. The portion which remained was the estate of Francis Montgomerie, second son of Earl Alexander. He was a leading person, in the political transac- tions of his time, having sat as one of the representatives of Ayr- shire in several Scottish Parliaments. He was one of the Commis- sioners for the Union with England, and was active and zealous in promoting that measure, and was member for Ayrshire in the first British Parliament after the Union in 1708. His son, John Mont- gomerie, was member for Ayrshire in four successive Parliaments between 1710 and 1722. He was an officer of the Guards, and afterwards Governor of New York, where he died. He married a daughter of the Earl of Hyndford, but left no issue. Being of ex- pensive habits, he contracted debt, for the liquidation of which the remainder of this fine estate was sold. The Castle of Giffen be- ing a square tower of 40 feet in height, stood on an eminence of 180 feet above the adjoining valley, and was long a conspicuous landmark to the district It fell on I2th April 18da Land-^fwners. — As already noticed, the property in this parish is greatly subdivided* The valued lent of the Lordship of Giffen is « - L. 4150 16 2 barony of Beith is . - 1964 18 • Making in Ayrshire, L. 6115 14 2 And in Renirewsbire, 163 13 4 L.6279 7 6 This valued rent is subdivided among upwards of 150 heritors, of these there are only 4 who have upwards of L. 200 Scots, viz. J. S. Patrick of Trearne and Hazlehead ; William Mure of Cald- well ; William Patrick of Roughwood and Woodside, and Lady Montgomery. There are 6 heritors whose valued rent is under L. 200, and not under L. 100 Scots; 22 under L. 100, and not under L.50; 21 under L. 50, and not under L. 30 ; 21 under 584 AYRSHIRE. L. 30, and not under U 20 ; 29 under L. 20, and not under L. 10; 21 under L. 10, and not under L. 5; and upwards of 30 whose valued rent is under L. 5 Scots. This last list consists chiefly of the feuars of £he old glebe, on whom the valued rent of the farm of Mainshill was apportioned when it was exchanged for the glebe. Within the last thirty years, one-half of the whole lands of the parish has changed owners. Family of Mure of Caldwell, — The most ancient family in the pa- rish is thatof the Mures of Caldwell. They are immediately descend- ed from Sir Reginald More or Mure of Abercorn, who was Lord High Chamberlain of Scotland in 1329. Gilchrist, second son of Sir Reginald, acquired the estate of Caldwell .by marrying the heir- ess of Caldwell of that ilk. His son John is the first of the name who appears designed << of Caldwell" in 1409. A younger branch of the male line of Caldwell of that ilk retained possession of a portion of the estate called Wester or Little Caldwell, and continued to be a respectable Renfrewshire family, until about the end of the se- venteenth century, when it failed in the person of John Caldwell, who was one of the Commissioners for Renfrewshire to the Scot- tish Parliament after the Revolution. The estate passed to the Earl of Dundonald, afterwards to the Duke of Hamilton, from whom it was purchased by Baron Mure, and now forms part of the Caldwell property. In 1655, William Mure of Caldwell married Barbara, daughter of Sir William Cunninghame of Cun- ninghamhead, In 1666, he and some other gentlemen of the neighbourhood, having met at Shitterflat in this parish, resolved to aid the people in the cause of civil and religious liberty, and formed a troop of horse which marched under the command of the Laird of Caldwell, to join the Covenanters. Intelligence having been received that the Whigs had been defeated at Pentland, this company dispersed. For this patriotic act the Laird of Caldwell was attainted, fled to Holland and died in exile. His estates were forfeited and bestowed on General Dalziel. His lady and eldest daughter were imprisoned in Blackness, and subjected to great sufferings and privations, as detailed by Wodrow and other his- torians of the times. After the Revolution the estate was restor* ed to the eldest surviving daughter, who married John Fairlie of that Ilk, but she having died without issue, was succeeded by her cousin, William Mure of Glanderston, the heir-male of the family. ^He was succeeded by his nephew, of whom the present owner, William Mure, Esq. is the lineal descendant, Mr Mure married BEITH. 685 in 1825, Laura, second daughter of William Markham, Esq. of Becca Hall, and grand-daughter of Dr William Markham, Arch- bishop of York. The mansion-house of Caldwell is a large and commodious building. It was designed by the celebrated archi- tect Adam, andis placed in an angle of the parish of Beith, being part of the feu from the lordship of Giffen, so acute that the ad- joining oflBces at a few yards distance are in another parish and county. Family of Ralston. — The ancient family of Ralston, of that Ilk, whose estate of Ralston lay near Paisley^ and of whom there is dis- tinct notice in the thirteenth century, held for upwards of 200 years the estate of Woodside in this parish, being part of the barony of Beith ; but it was sold in 1772 by the late Gavin Ralston, on whose death, in 1819, the male line of the family failed. There are still several families in the district connected with them by collateral descent, and the estate of Woodside was in 1884 purchased by William Patrick, Esq. of Roughwood, whose maternal grandmo- ther was eldest daughter of Gavin Ralston of that Ilk. Other Families. — The ancestors of Mr Patrick of Hazlehead have held lands in the parish since 1663, and long previous thereto held lands in the parish of Kilwinning ; the family of Love of Threepwood since 1638 ; the family of Montgomery of Bogston, since 1663; and th^ family of Shedden of Roughwood since 1690. Eminent Men. — This parish was the birth-place of Alexander Montgomerie, one of our more early and most celebrated Scottish poets. He was born at Hazlehead Castle. The estate of Hazle- head, as has already been mentioned, was a part of the lordship of Giffen, and was given to a younger branch of the family of Eglinton. In Pont's Cunninghame Typographized, it is said that ^^ Hazlehead Castell is a strong old building environed with lairge ditches, seatted on a loch, veill planted and comodiously beautified, the heritage of Robert Montgomery, Laird thereof; famous it is for ye birth of yat renoned poet, Alexander Montgomery." This ^account was written about 1608, recently after the death of the poet, and gives authenticity to the statement as to the place of his birth. The fame of Montgomerie rests chiefly upon ^^ The Cherry and the Slae," his longest poem ; though in some of his minor pieces, there is a higher degree of refined sentiment and poetical feeling. Hugh Montgomerie of Braidstane^ a cadet of the family of Eg- lington, was a person of much sagacity, and, by an occurrence al- 586 AYRSHIRE, together unconnected with his previous history, was raised to high rank in Ireland. The transaction has only recently been brought to notice by the publication of the Montgomery Manuscripts at Belfast in 1830, and by Dr Reid's History of the Presbyterian Church in Ireland, to which works reference is here made* Montgomery was knighted by King James, who gave him the precedency of his rival, James Hamilton, aflterwards Lord Clan* deboy. He was afterwards created Viscount Montgomery of Ards^ and his son was created Earl Mount Alexander. Hugh Mont- gomery took with him from this parish several families, who settled upon his Irish estate, and whose descendants remain in that dis- trict of the country, many of them being highly respectable. The last Earl Mount Alexander having died without issue, the title became extinct, the estates passed from the family, and a great part of them now belongs to the Marquis of Londonderry. We have formerly noticed the patriotism of William Mure^ who took the command of a small party of Covenanters after the meeting at Shitterflatt, and marched to join their country* men, then in the field near Edinburgh, and of his forfeiture and personal sufferings. We refer for the particular^ to the histories of that^ interesting period. His collateral descendant, William Mure of Glanderston, who succeeded to Caldwell, was also a sufferer in the public cause in 1683, as mentioned by Wodrow. His grand-nephew. Baron William Mure of Cald* well, was educated under charge of the kev. William Leechman, afterwards minister of Beith, and subsequently Professor of Di« vinity, and Principal of the University of Glasgow. Mr Leech- man paid great attention to the formation of the character of his pupil, and had the gratifying pleasure of seeing his labours reward- ed. Mr Mure was acknowledged to be a man of high talents for business, and of most honourable principle. Soon after he reach- ed majority, he was chosen representative for Renfrewshire^ and kept his seat for twenty years, having been thrice returned without opposition. He was held in high esteem by the Gk>vernment, and was entrusted with the management of much of the public affairs of Scotland, and was in habits of familiar correspondence with Hume, Robertson^ and many other eminent literary men. In 1761, he was appointed one of the Barons of Exchequer, which office he held until his death in 1776. He married Katherin^ daughter of the Honourable James Graham, Lord Easdale, one of the Judges of the Court of Session. His eldest son, the late BEITH. 587 William Mure of Caldwell, entered the army in early life as a cornet in the Blues. He afterwards commanded a company in the 82d Foot,— was in the American war under Lord Cornwallis, ^-was wounded, and taken prisoner in 1 780* After being ex- changed, he was with Lord Comwallis at the capitulation of the British at Yorktown in October 178L On his return to ScoV land, he was appointed to the command of the West Lowland Fencibles and Renfrewshire Militia. For many years prior to his death, which happened on February 1831, he was Vice-Lieutenant of Renfrewshire, and was active and zealous in the discharge of his public duties. His son, the present William Mure of Cald« well, is well known as an eminent classical scholar. He has writ« ten " Brief Remarks on the Chronology of the Egyptian Dynas* ties," and ^^ A Dissertation on the Calendar and Zodiac of An- cient Egypt," works of erudition and research. Humphrey Fulton, who introduced to Paisley the silk manu- factory, was a native of this parish. His ancestors were proprietors of the lands of Midtown of Threepwoodin 1634, at which place he was born, 16th April 1713. He married Mary Cochran, a native of the parish, and removed to Paisley. He introduced there the manu£Acture of silk, and, in 1777, established a warehouse in Beith, from which near 300 weavers were employed. This brought for many years upwards of L. 100 per week to the place, and greatly increased its trade and population. Mr Fulton died in 1779 ; and the epitaph which was written at the time is a just tri- bute to his memory. The business was carried on for some years by his sons, Robert and William, men of highly respectable character. Robert pur- chased the estate of Hartfield, which is now inherited by his son. Colonel Robert Fulton, and William purchased the estate of Park of Inchinnan, which has recently been sold.* Robert Shedden, of Gower Street, London, Esq., was born in * In a more humble sphere was James M'Connell, drummer in Beith, the re- doubted champion of orthodoxy, whom it would be unfair to omit in this report. He was a native of Wigton, where he was bom in 1706. Having enlisted into the 4dd Regiment of foot, he was for a considerable period on foreign service. On the return of the r^ment, the company to which he belonged was quartered in Beith, where James married Jean Love, a native of the place. After obtaining his dis- charge he returned to Beith and settled as a teacher. He was afterwards made con- stable, sheriff-officer, and town drummer. Having a turn for polemical divinity, he attacked Mr James Ferguson, minister of Ktlwinning, as unsound in his doctrine, and libelled him before the Presbytery of Irvine. The case remained in the Church Courts for some years, and Mr Ferguson died before it was finally disposed of. The drummer published two pamphlets on this subject, which are now become scarce. They shew some talent, and much zeal in the cause. 588 AYRSHIRE. this parish. He was eldest son of William SheddeD, who was second son of Robert Shedden of Roughwood, by Beatrice, daugh- ter of Robert Dobie, Chamberlain of Giffen. In early life he went to America, and settled as a merchant at Norfolk in Vir- ginia. At the commencement of the American war he left Vir- ginia, and, after living some time in Bermuda and New York, re- turned to England in 1783^ and settled in London as an under- writer and general merchant His unwearied attention and cor- rect and honourable principles soon acquired an extensive busi* ness, which in due time brought him great wealth. He proved a distinguished benefactor to the place of his nativity. In particu- lar, he purchased the lands of Gatend, in this parish, which he burdened with a perpetual annuity of L.50, which he vested in trustees, who were directed to apportion the same among persons of respectable character, and who had resided three years in the parish, in annuities not exceeding L.IO, nor less than L.5 to each. This grant has been of great bene6t to the receivers, and the same has hitherto been awarded by the trustees in the most judi- cious manner. Mr Shedden died in London, 29th September 1826, aged 85. He was married to Agatha, daughter of John Godrich, Esq. She died at the Isle of Wight^ dlst January 18da Among other eminent individuals connected with this parish, must be noticed William Wilson of Cumnock. He was one of the original partners of the house of Messrs John Gilmore and Company of Calcutta, and returning to this country in 1814, he purchased the property of Cumnock, where he resided until his death in 1836, at the age of 84. He was unwearied in well-do- ing, giving liberally to all the public and private subscriptions of the place. In 1882, he purchased the estate of Wiuowyards, which had belonged to his maternal ancestors. In his deed of settlement he left L.100 to be laid out in paying house-rents, or purchasing clothes for aged people residing in the parish. Dr Robert Patrick of Treame entered the army in early life, and was for upwards of ten years employed in foreign service. Upon his return home after the peace, he was appointed Inspector of Hospitals for a district in England, and afterwards was promoted to be an Inspector General. He devoted much of his time to ru- ral affairs, and to his duties as a magistrate, and was deservedly held in high esteem in the parish. He died in Edinburgh, 24th March 1838, and left L. 100 for charitable purposes, and I.. 20 BEITH. 589 for forming a Society for furnishing clothing for old men in de-* cayed circumstances. III. — Population. The following table shews the progressive increase during the last eighty years : — In 1755 the population was • 2064 1792, . - - - 2872 1801, -. - - - 3108 1811, . . - - 3755 1821, . . . 4472 1881, . - - 5118 From a late inquiry it appears that the number is on the in- crease, and that the religious statistics may be classified thus : — Belonging to the Established Church, - 8457 The Relief, ... 969 United Seces^on, . . 388 Reformed Presbytery, - - 75 Roman Catholics, - • 43 Old Light Seceden, - - 20 Independents, - • 4 Methodists, . . 9 Baptists, ... 6 Episcopalians, - - 6 To no Cliurch, • - 302 6279 The following table is a pretty accurate enumeration of the various trades, &c« Weavers, 430; licensed public-houses, 44; masons, 43; shoe* makers, 84; grocers, 34; joiners, 26; tailors, 21 ; blacksmiths, 13 ; bakers, 7 ; drapers, 6 ; tinsmiths, 4 ; saddlers, 4 ; nailers, 4; coopers, 2; iron-mongers, 2; hair-dressers, 2; writers, 2; surgeons, 6 ; law-ofBcers ; 4 ; printers, 3 ; stationers, 6 ; watch- makers, 2 ; butchers, 8. IV, — Industry. Affriculture and Rural Economy. — From the table given of the different trades, it will be seen how that part of the population is employed. The landward part of the parish is very well peopled, there being a considerable part of the land in small farms, occu- pied by the owners whose valued rent is from L. 10 to L. 70 Scots. According to the usual routine of this district, the tenant is allowed to take two crops of grain, then sow grass, and thereafter the land to lie in pasture for five years, so that he goes through an arable farm in eight years, but he has an option of taking a green crop between the two grain crops if he chooses. The lands are manured with 590 AYRSHIRE. lime or dung during each rotation. There are few sheep kept. The pasture lands are occupied by milk cows of the best Ayrshire breed. Their produce is disposed of partly in butter, but chiefly in cheese, which may be considered as the staple article, from which at least two-thirds of the rents are raised ; great attention is there- fore paid to the dairy. The cheese is considered equal to the best Dunlop, and bears the highest price as such in the Glasgow mar- ket The tenants seldom carry their cheese to the Glasgow mar- ket themselves. They dispose of it to a class of cheese-merchants or middlemen, who purchase from the tenants, and attend the dis- posal of it in the markets. Many of these cheese-merchants have made considerable fortunes. Mr James Findlay, a well-known dealer, has erected a large storehouse at Easter Highgate in which he has often 12,000 stones of cheese, and 1000 bolls of oat- meal. He carries a very large quantity to the Glasgow market yearly. The number of milk cows, pastured in the parish, may amount to 900, besides young cattle ; and as the greater part of the produce of the cows is made into cheese, it may be estimated to ave- rage from 12 to 16 stone tron, being 18 or 24 stone English each cow. A considerable quantity of milk is also carted into the ad- joining villages, which is found a more pro&table mode of disposing of it, when the distance is great, than by making cheese or but- ter. Rye-grass is extensively grown for sale, and in the town and parish there are seed-merchants who make very considerable pur- chases, and make large shipments to England. The fur drainage has lately been carried on very extensively in the parish. It was first attempted by Mr Cunninghame of Lainshaw, with stones. The tile-drainage was then introduced by the Duke of 'Portland, who carried it to a very great extent There was at first a prejudice against tiles in this neighbourhood, in which there is abundance of stones, and the fur drains were for some time made exclusively with stones. The prejudice has now given way, and two tile-works have lately been erected in the parish, which have not hitherto been able to supply the demand. On the drained lands, wheat and beans are now partially reared, and the fur drainage has greatly improved the quality of the pasturage. The stock of cattle has also much im- proved ; and the late Dr Patrick of Treame, Mr Patrick of Rough- wood, and Captain Patrick of Drumbowie, for many years have given premiums to their tenants for the best cattle kept and reared by them, as shewn at an annual exhibition. T*his has been produc- tive of much benefit, and is an example worthy of imitation by BEITH. 591 Other landed proprietors. The real rental of the landward part of the parish may be stated at L. 10,000 Sterling, being at the rate of about L. 1, 10s. per Scots acre of the whole parish. Rate of Wages. — The wages of form-servants are males, L. 8 ; females, from L. 8 to L. 4, in the half-year. The wages of la- bourers are 2s. per day without victuals. Manufactures. — There is a considerable quantity of thread made annually, by which about 200 persons are employed ; and a mill for spinning flax has recently been erected at North-bar, two miles from the town, which employs upwards of 80 people. The sole proprietor of this work is Mr James Crawford, manufacturer in Beith, who has set down several houses for the accommodation of his workers, and has begun to feu, so that in a few years a village will be formed at this establishment There is at Roughbank, on the march of the parish, to the north, a thriving similar establish* ment, but on a less scale, belonging to William Patrick, Esq. and occupied by Mr Thomas Caldwell. There is at this place a mill for making potatoe flour, which employs about 14 individuals. The tanning and currying of leather is carried on to a great extent in Beith by Messrs John Muir, Robert Itamsay, and Bryce Muir, under the Arms of " John Muir and Company," and " Muir and Ramsay." The works are well conducted, and employ 86 per- sons. At Threepwood, in the north-east of the parish, there are two bleachfields, one belonging to Mr Hugh Stevenson, the other to Messrs John Stevenson and Son, at both of which considerable business is done. Mr James Stevenson of Threepwood has erect- ed at Knows, in the neighbourhood, an establishment of 38 steam looms, which employs about 30 individuals. The machinery is of the newest construction, and has been chiefly formed by one of his sons, a young man of considerable skill in mechanics. In the town and parish, there are several merchants who deal very exten- sively in grain ; and while it is difficult to say what forms the staple article of the commerce of Beith, it is not difficult to add, that the spirit of enterprise in the place is considerable, and is on the in- crease, embracing a share of all sorts of merchandise. The town is well lighted with gas. The Gas Company was instituted in 1831, and the stock is held in L. 10 shares. The capital is L. 1600, on which the dividends have rated from 5 to 8 per cent annually. V. — Parochial Economt. Markets^ ^-c— There has been, for a long period, a weekly mar- ket in Beith. It used to be held on Saturday ; but after the Scots 592 AYRSHIRE. Statute 1695, prohibiting Saturday markets, it was changed to Friday, upon which day it still remains. On this day, there is no exposing of articles on the street for sale, but country people at- tend to transact business, and fiiirs are always held on this day, except such as are fixed on a particular day of the month, such as the festival of St Inan, vulgarly called Tenants day, which is held on 18th August, old style. This &ir is celebrated for its show and sale of horses, and is attended by a great concourse of people. The other more particular fairs are New Years-day Friday, Candlemas Friday, May Cow Fair, and Martinmas Friday, all of which are held on the first Fridays of the respective months of January, Fe- bruary, May, and November, old style. There used formerly to be a fair in June, called the Trades Race, in which the trades as* sembled and went in procession through the town with music and flags, but this has long been given up. On the day after the Trades Race, the merchants of the town used to meet and walk in proces- sion, and afterwards dine together. The procession has also been given up for many years, but the convivial part of the ceremony is still retained, and the annual dinner continues to be respectably attended. This society is of some standing. They have a regular minute-book, from which it appears that they were constituted as a society prior to 1727, and it is said, that at their first institution they held a charter from the Earl of Eglinton. They have a set of useful rules which are in verse, and are read over to the new members at their initiation. The president is annually elected, and during the festival is styled *^ my Lord." This society com- prehends all the merchants in town. All those who commence business are called upon at the return of the festival, and in some degree compelled to enter. Founding upon the long continuance of the custom, the office-bearers have considered themselves en- titled to use compulsory mean^ to make the new merchant join their society, and failing his dojng so, to seize brevi manu his goods to the value of the entry money. On a principle of this kind, it was decided by the Court of Session in the case of Callender, 1 1 th July 1672, M. D. 10892, that ^^ forty years possession gave a Sheriff right to ride a fair, and exact so much for gloves, and for the best staig in the fair," although there was no special grant on which the exaction was founded ; but it has not been necessary of late to re- sort to compulsory measures with the Beith merchants, to make them becoine members of this society, as the doing so and attend- ing the annual meeting is considered a matter of amusement and BRITH* 593 conviviality. There is still a fair in July called the Cadgers' Race, in which the carters ride in procession through the town. In the van the oldest cadger or carter rides, having a string of bells round the horse's neck. The horse which gains the race has the honour of returning from the race course bearing the bells, and its owner retains the custody of them till next year. For some years, the far- mers of the parish joined in this procession, on which occasions there was an imposing exhibition of excellent horses ; but they have not done so for many years, and this remnant of ancient cus- tom has dwindled away to comparative insignificance. Villages^ — Above a mile to the east of the town, there is a village chilled Gateside, where there are 150 inhabitants ; and at Northbar and Burnhouse, on the road to Kilmarnock, two villages are now forming. Means of Communication* — There is a daily coach from Ar- drossan to Glasgow, which passes through Beith in the morning and returns in the evening. There are two carriers three times a-week to Paisley ; two twice a-week to Glasgow ; two weekly to Kilmarnock ; two to Greenock ; one to Saltcoats ; and one to Largs. The post-office communications are very advantageous. There are two arrivals and departures daily, and a free delivery of letters twice a-day, and a penny-post daily to the neighbouring towns of Dairy, Kilbirnie, and Lochwinnoch. Banks. — There are four branches' of Banks, the Commercial Bank of Scotland, the Glasgow Union, the British Linen Com- pany, and the Paisley Commercial. Ecclesiastical History. — The church of Beith was originally a chapel planted by the monastery of Kilwinning. The monks en- joyed the tithes and revenues, and found a curate to do the duty. At the Reformation the tithes of Beith produced yearly 169 bolls and 2 pecks of meal, 9 bolls, 3 firlots, and 2 pecks of bear, and L. 43, 5s. Scots in money, for a part of the tithes which had been let on lease. About the period of the Reformation, the Abbot and Chapter feued out the lands in the barony for small feu- duties. These passed with the other temporalities of the Church to Hugh fifth Earl of Eglinton, who was created Lord of Erection of the monastery. The first minister of whom we have any notice after the Re- formation, is Thomas Boyd, who was Reader there in 1573. His stipend was first L. 20, afterwards L. 25, " with the kirk-land, to be payit out of the third of Kilwynnyng for payment thairof AYR. pp I 591 AYRSHIRE. j. cbalder iiij. bolls meill." Readers were an inferior order of ministers, whose duty it was to read the Scriptures and common prayers to the people. After they advanced in knowledge, they were authorized to add short exhortations, and were then called Exhorters. The readers having taken upon them to solem- nize marriage, and administer the sacraments, were prohibited from the exercise of these duties by the General Assembly, — an example of which is given by Calderwood, who states that in 1574» *' the reader of Dairy was complained upon by Mr David Lindsay, Commissioner of Kyle, Carrick, and Cunninghame, for that be- ing discharged of all ministration of the Lord's Supper, he not- withstanding ministered the same after his manner, in the place of Kilburnie, in the last Easter. The Assembly ordained him to make his public repentance two several Sabbaths, upon the one in Kil- burnie and upon the other in Dairy ; and if he commit the like, that he be deposed, and that this act strike upon all readers thai shall be found guiltie of the like." These enactments were re- newed, but being transgressed, the order was in 1581 suppressed, the office being concluded, ^^ to be no ordinar office in the kirk of God." After Mr Boyd, Mr John Young was minister of Beith. He ob- tained from the King a grant during his own lifetime of the whole tithes of the parish, and which grant was afterwards ratified by Mr William Melville, commendator of Tungland (who acquired right to the temporalities of Kilwinning,) on Mr Youog^s paying him L. 5 Scots yearly. Mr Young, with several of his brethren, was called before the Lords of the Secret Council on a charge of serious import. Various statutes had been passed prohibiting intercourse with Catholic priests, and imposing severe penalties on those who should harbour them. These enactments had not been successful ; and in 1609 an act was passed renewing the former statutes, and giving power to the Secret Council to call those who should con* travene the law before them and inflict punishment On 31 st January 1610, The records of the Secret Council bear, that ** For- samekle as althocht the receipt, supplie, and intercomoning, with Jesuits, seminarie priestes, and trafficquing Papistis be prohibite and forbidden be diverse actis of Parliament and Secrit Counsell, nochtwithstanding it is of truth that Johnne Campbell, alias fader Chrisostome, ane knowne trafficquing priest, returning laitlie with- in this realme, of purpois and intentioun to haif seduceit simple and Ignorant people frome acknowlegeing of the treuth, and to hafo BEITH. 595 maid schipwrak of the faith, he during the tyme of his abode heir, had his most frequent and commone resorte, residence, and re- maining within the boundis of the Presbyterie of Irwing, quhair he was resset, suppleit, and comfortit in all his necessaries be Mr Johne Harpar, minister at Kilbryd, and Johnne Fullarton, minister at Dreghorne, Mr Alexander Scrimgeour, minister at Irwing, Mr Johnne Young, minister at Beath, and Mr Alexander Campbell, minister at Stevensoun, minesteris of the said Presbeterie, quha nocht onlie keipit cumpany and societie with him in all friendly and familiar discourseis, but interteyned him in their houses, mi- nistering unto him all suche comforte, countenance, favor, and as- sistance, as gif he had bene a lauchfuU subject, heichlie to the disgrace of thair professioun and calling, misregard of his Ma* teis auctoritie and lawis, and evill example to utheris simple per- sounis to do the lyke, without remeid be providit : Thairfore, the Lordis of Secret Counsalls ordanis lettres to be direct, charging the saidis personis to compeir personalie before the saidis Lordis/ upon the fyftene day of Februair nixt to cum, to answer to the premissis, and to underlye suche ordoure as sal be tane thairanent, under the pane of rebellioun, &c. with confiscation," &c. The result is not known, though probably Fader Chrisostome would leave the country, and his entertainer-s suffer rebuke. Mr Young was succeeded by Mr James FuUarton. His stipend was at first 3 chalders meal, and 300 merks of money. Having brought a process of augmentation in 1635, the Commissioners increased the same to 5 chalders victual, 300 merks of money, and 40 merks for communion elements. This continued the sti- pend of the parish till 1806. During Mr Fullarton's incumbency, it was proposed to remove the Kirk of Beith to a more central part of the parish. An act of the Scots Parliament was passed for this purpose in 1633, the preamble of which is curious :— " Our Sovereign Lord and his States of this present Parliament, being certainlie informit that the Kirk of Beith, lyand within the presbyterie of Irvine, and bailliarie of Cunynghame, quhair the same was of old situat, and now presentlie stands, is most remote and far distant from the moste pairt of the haill parichioners and pa- rochine of Bey the, situate upon the north and north-west pairts of the said parochine of Beithe, neir approatching to the parochine of Loquhinzeche, the parichioners quhairof sua incroatches, and takes up the places and stallis of the ordinar parichioners of Beythe, that in the summer seasone they cannot convenientlie come and ad- 696 AYKSHIRE* dress tbamselffes to sermones and sacraments to thair said paroch kirk; and in the winter seasone thair is difficultie in ryding vpon horse and walking vpon feete ; that the most pairt of the saids parichioners of Beithe being distant from thair said paroch kirk be the space of three or four myitis or thairby, cannot goodlie address and con- •vene thameselffs thairto be reassoun of the stormes of weather^ and of the deip and evil wayes adjacent thairto." The statute then proceeds to enact, that there be ane new kirk planted in a more commodious part of the parish, and that there be a new manse and glebe, conform to law, — the new kirk, manse, and glebe to be built at the expense of the heritors, who were to have power to apply the old buildings, glebe, and glebe lands for that purpose ; but the proposal was not put into execution. Mr Fullarton was succeeded by Mr Patrick Colville, a man of talent, who was frequently employed in committees on public affairs, during the troublesome times of his incumbency. At the indulgence, Mr William Maitland from Whithorn was appointed by an act of the Privy- Council in 1669, and in 1672. Under the second indulgence, Mr William Creighton was conjoined with him, though it is doubtful if he ever accepted. It is well-known that the indulged ministers had great difficulty in recovering their stipends, and it appears that Mr Maitland had been in that predicament The records of the privy-council, 1st March 1677, have the following entry, ^* anent a petition presented by Mr William Maitland, minister it Beith, showing that the pe* titioner had served the cure at the said kirk, the two byegone years^ 1675 and 1676, without receiving any stipend; albeit he hath himself and a numerous family to manteane, which he will not be longer able to undergo unless the Lords of Counsel be pleased to allow him the said stipend for the said two years service ; and therefore humbly supplicating that an order and warrant might be granted for that effect, in manner under-written ; the Lords of His Mnj. Privie Counsel having heard and considered the foresaid petition, do hereby grant order and warrant to the heritors and others liable in payment of the stipend of the said paroch of Beith, to make payment to the petitioner, and that for ilk one of said crops and years of God, 1675 and 1676, and ordains letters of horning and others to be direct thereupon in form, as effeirs." Mr Maitland was succeeded in 1681 by Mr Robison, a curate^ whose appointment is said to have been very unpopular. After the Revolution Mr Alexander Orr was admitted in 1690. In 1700, 3 BEITH. 597 he was translated to St Quivox, when Mr Robert Cameron was appointed to Beith. In his time the minister, with consent of the presbytery and heritors, entered into a contract of excambion with Alexander Earl of Eglinton, by which his Lordship gave the farm of Mainshill for the old glebe. This farm contains about 45 acres, and has added considerably to the value of the living. Mr Ca- meron died in 1735, and was succeeded by Mr William Leechman, who was translated to Glasgow, where he was first admitted Pro- fessor of Divinity, and afterwards chosen Principal of the University. He was succeeded in Beith by Mr John Witherspoon, a man of strong natural talents and decision of character, which he probably inherited from our Reformer, John Knox, of whom he was a lineal descendant. He was a native of Yester, in East Lothian, of which parish his father was minister. Soon after his ordination at Beith, the Rebellion broke out, and he was active in seconding the wishes of his parishioners, who raised a company of militia ^^ in defence of our only rightful and lawful Sovereign, King George, against his enemies engaged in the present Rebellion." At the head of this patriotic band, Mr Witherspoon marched to Glasgow to join the King's army against the Pretender. When they arrived there, they received orders to return, and with this the company com* plied ; but the reverend commander went forward, was at the Battle of Falkirk, where the rebels were victorious, and where he was taken prisoner. He was carried to Doune Castle, and kept for some time. Along with him was the Rev. Andrew M* Vey, after- wards minister of Dreghorn, who got out of the state prison in the disguise of a female carrying a tea-kettle. Several parishes in this district sent out parties of volunteers in aid of the Government, and to this they were encouraged by a resolution of the Presbytery of Irvine, 7th January 1746. Mr Witherspoon married Elizabeth, daughter of Robert Montgomery of Craighouse, in this parish* He was translated to Paisley, and went afterwards to America, where he was appointed President of the College of Princeton in New Jersey. He introduced into the system of education there all the improvements of this country, and the cause of education, and science in America was greatly promoted by his exertions. He was repeatedly sent to Congress, and was one of the subscribers to the declaration of American Independence. His political con- duct showed that he considered it his duty to be a faithful subject to the Government under which he lived, whatever the form of that government might be. Immediately after the peace of 1783, 698 AYRSHIRE. he paid a visit to his native country, where he spent some days among his friends in Beith, and preached in the church. He died on 15th November 1794, in the 73d year of his age. His family and descendants are numerous and respectable. His fame did not die with him, as his theological writings, particularly his cele- brated " Essay on Regeneration," are quoted as works of great merit. Hiswhole works were published at Edinburgh 1804, in nine volumes, octavo, and some of them have reached several editions. He was succeeded in Beith by Mr David M^Lellan, a man of whom it was said that he united in his character the gentleman, scholar, and Christian. He died 22d October 1796, and was succeeded by Mr Robert M^ Vey. In his time, the stipend, which had remained for 170 years without any increase, was augmented to 8chalders meal, L. 400 Scots of money, and L. 100 Scots for communion elements. A new mansiO was built in 1796, and a new church was begun 20th March 1807, and opened for divine service on 19th August 1810. The church is set down on the lands of Knockbuckle, and stands high ; its site is 343 feet above the level of the sea. When the church was removed a small part of the old building was al- lowed to remain, to preserve the clock and bell for the use of the town. Mr M*Vey died 3d July 1811, and was succeeded by Mr James Muir. During his incumbency, the stipend was augment- ed to 16 chalders of victual, half meal, half barley, with L.15 Ster- ling for communion elements. Mr Muir died in 1831, and was succeeded by the present incumbent, who was translated from Kil- winning, to which parish he was ordained in 1824. The church, as is before-mentioned, was opened for public worship in August 1810. It is seated for 1254 persons, giving 18 inches for each sitting. At the division, the heritors set apart 183 sittings for the use of the inhabitants of the town. They are let annually for the benefit of the poor's fund. The remainder of the church was divided among the heritors, which gave them a sitting for L.6, 10s. Scots of valued rent. The church and tower Qost L.2790. The bell in the tower, one of the finest toned in the west country, was the gift of Robert Shedden, Esq. Grower Street, London, a native of the parish, of whom some notice is taken elsewhere. The church, manse, and offices are all in a good state of repair. Education, — There was a school early established in this pa- rish. In a charter dated 14th November 1644, there occurs the BEITH. 599 name of Mr John Maxwell, schoolmaster at the kirk of Beith, as a witness. The session record, of date 9th November 1693, bears, that after sermon the minister, heritors, and elders met, and agreed with Mr Chapman to be their schoolmaster. This was three years before the statute 1696 of William III. ordaining a school to be settled in every parish. Since that date there has been a regular succession .of parish schoolmasters. The salary was 100 ixierks Scots until the passing of the statute in 1803, when it was fixed at the minimum or 300 merks, with a house and an allowance for a garden. At the expiry of the first twenty-five years the salary was made L. 26 Sterling, being at the rate of one penny Sterling on each pound Scots of valued rent. The schoolmaster receives the statutory value for a garden, but it is in contemplation by the heritors to build a new school-house, and inclose garden ground in terms of law. The present parish schoolmaster, Mr James Reid, who was elected in May 1832, holds the office of session - clerk ; but the offices of precentor and kirk-treasurer, though sometimes united, are held by different individuals. Besides the parish school, there are five other schools in the town, and three hi the landward part of the parish. The total number of scholars is 500, being nearly the tenth part of the population. There are also several Sabbath even- ing schools, which are well attended. They are all taught gra- tuitously ; and the long-continued labours of Mr William Clark, merchant, in this department^ have been most creditable to him- self and beneficial to his pupils. The Sabbath evening school which meets in the parish church is superintended by the minister and Mr Reid, the parochial schoolmaster. It is taught by about sixteen teachers, and attended by about 200 children. In con- nexion with this school, Mr Reid, with the assistance of two or three benevolent individuals, teaches gratuitously a school two evenings in the week, which is of great benefit to a numerous portion of the poorer children, whose necessary employment pre- vents them from attending the day school. Dissenters. — There is a congregation of the Associate Synod, which was formed in 1761. Their first ordained minister was Mr John Laidlaw, who remained only about two years, and with- drew from their communion. He was succeeded by the Reverend Andrew Mitchell, a man of sincere piety, who was respected by people of all denominations. He died in 1812. His eldest son, the Reverend John Mitchell, D. D. Glasgow, is one of the Pro- (iOO AYRSHIRE. fessors of Divinity of the United Associate Synod. Mr Mitchell was succeeded by the Reverend James Meikle, who was ordained in September 1812, and is now minister. Their church was re- built in 1816, and is capable of holding 500 people. They have a good substantial dwelling-house, and suitable offices and garden for their minister. There is also a congregation of Relief, which was formed in 1784. Their first ordained minister was the Reverend John Har- riot; their second the Reverend William Thomson, who was placed in 1788, and was translated in 1800 to Hutchisontoun, Glasgow, where he now officiates. He was succeeded in 1802 by the Reverend James Anderson, the present minister. The Relief society have also a good manse, offices, and garden, with some acres of land adjoining, which they have recently commenced to feu. The church is seated for 849 persons. There is a school belonging to the society, which has a small endowment arising from the bequest of one of the heritors. Parochial Register s.-T'^^yf parish registers in the Presbytery are of older date than the Revolution. The earliest volume of the Beith register commences in 1659, and ends in 1758. It is imperfect, and for some years no entries are made ; sometimes births, baptisms, and marriages, are entered promiscuously. Bap- tism was generally administered ^^in presence of the hail congrega- tion,^' but it was also done at the houses of the parents, on which occasions the names of two of the witnesses present at the cere^ mony are entered in the record. The more frequent way was to administer this ordinance in presence of the congregation, as di- rected by the Act of Assembly, 7th February 1645. It appears that baptism was administered very soon after the birth of the child, sometimes on the same day. The laws against disorder- ly baptism were severe, and by the statute 22d Charles II. 1672, those who delayed the baptism of their children beyond thirty days, were subjected in very heavy penalties. Besides, it was the popular belief, that infants perished who died unbaptised, and until baptism that they were more readily subject to the power of witchcraft. Of late years, the register has been kept with greater accuracy and care, but there are comparatively few births regis- tered. While on this subject it may be remarked, that the mode of conducting funerals has of late years undergone considerable change. Formerly large companies were invited, there being fre- BEITH. 601 quently from two to three hundred individuals asked to a funeral, the greater number of whom attended. Now the parties are smal- ler, and the custom of having an entertainment seems gradually to be giving way. Funerals are thus less expensive, and occupy less time ; but many are of opinion that it lessens the solemnity when there is no religious exercise ; and it is well known that the hearts of individuals have been affected by prayers at a funeral, which have resisted or neglected more ordinary appeals. It has been suggested, that a prayer might be offered immediately after the body is laid in the grave, and, doubtless, the place and cir- cumstances are well calculated to impress serious thoughts on the mind ; but the weather is not always favourable for this exercise, and it is a subject on which it would be easy to excite prejudice and misconception, and, so far as is known, the experiment has not been tried. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The kirk-session hold two small farms in the parish, which were purchased by sums mortified for be- hoof of the poor. The rents of both are at present L. 78 yearly. The average collections at the church-door are L. 70. Hearse hires and mortcloth dues yield L. ] ; and fees for proclamations, &c. about L. 5. The seats in the church, set apart for the population of the town, and let annually, yield L.14. These produce L. 177. The expenditure for the poor is somewhat above this, and the surplus is provided for by occasional assessments in the parish. The allow- ance to the poor on the ordinary roll is from 4s. to 6s. monthly. The number on the roll at present is 30. ro«?n-£Zbttfc.-r-In 1817, this house was built by subscription. The lower part consists of two shops, the rents of which are ap- plied for public purposes, without any return to the subscribers. The upper story is a large hall, in which ace held the Justice of Peace Courts, the Sheriff Small Debt Circuit Courts, meetings of the road trustees, &c. It is also used as a public reading-room. There is in the lower part of the building a lock-up, in which cri- *minals are confined, preparatory to their being sent to Ayr, or in modum pcmas of minor offences. It was stipulated that the management of this house, and the affairs connected therewith, should for the first twenty years after July 1818 remain with the subscribers, and after that period should be transferred to the four following classes of persons : — 1. All the Justices of the Peace in the parishes of Beith, Dairy, and Kil- birnie, being the parishes forming the district of Beith ; 2. Heri- 602 AYRSHIUE. tors of the parishes whose valued ren6 is L. 50 Scots and upwards ; 3. Proprietors of houses in the town of Beith, or within half a mile of the cross, of L. 7 of yearly rent or value ; and, 4. The te- nants of such houses. The twenty years expired in July 1838, and the management has now been taken up by the new con- stituency. Benevolent Societies. — Many years ago, several societies were in- stituted for affording relief to aged and indigent members. But as nothing was contributed after the original subscription, and as there was thus no annual supply, the funds could not stand the de- mands when the members became old and required aid. The consequence was, that they were consumed, and the societies ceased. No attempt has been made to form one on the basis recommend- ed by the Highland Society of Scotland, of making the entrance- money on a scale corresponding to the age of the members, which has been proved the sure foundation of permanency and efficiency. This is much to be regretted, as there is nothing so gratifying to the independent minded man as the reflection of having laid aside, in the day of comparative prosperity, for the day of his ad- versity, to which all are more or less liable. Of late, a sort of substitute for the friendly society has been adopted in what is cal- led a Menage. This is a common fund contributed equally at so much a-week ; and at a time fixed, each person draws his share by lot. He thus gets L. 1 or L. 1, 10s. at one time, which aids him in paying his house rent, but it is only drawing out in cumtdo what he contributed periodically, and is no better than the old custom of the Pinaner^Pig^ only the money is put beyond reach until the date of drawing it out. There was a Savings Bank for se- veral years, which was broken up, and a new one formed in 1834. The following table gives a vidimus of the operations of this so- ciety. Year endini? Amount of No. of No. of Amount of No. of ^ Deposits. Deposits. Depositors. Drawings. Drawings, dd March 1835, L. 524 4 4 901 124 L. 202 6 2 49 Ist March 1886, 481 9 4 668 171 252 1 11 60 ' 7th March 1837, 599 14 3 828 225 421 7 9 86 Proportion of years to 10th Feb. 1838, 445 14 3 583 270 514 1 10 124 Mr John Kerr of Nettlehirst left L.20 to found a society for purchasing clothing, blankets, and fire, for poor persons resident in the town and parish. The society was instituted in 1817, the year in which Mr Kerr died, and has been very well supported. The average expenditure is about L. 20. BEITII. 603 • The late Dr Patrick of Hazlehead left L. 20 to form a society for procuring clothing to old men in decayed circumstances, and resident in the parish. A society has in consequence been re- cently instituted for this benevolent purpose, and it is to be hoped will meet with similar support. Public Libraries. — There is a subscription library in the town, which contains 400 volumes, but it has not been well supported. There are also two circulating libraries. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the last Statistical Account was written, very considerable improvements have taken place in this parish. The roads, both turnpike and parochial, are in better order, though in this matter there is certainly much room for farther improvement The houses- of the wealthier inhabitants are, with few exceptions, more com- modious and comfortable, but many of the weavers and labourers, and even farmers, are meanly lodged. In the town, there are many thriving respectable merchants and traders ; and Beith is distinguished above most places of the kind by the wealth of not a few of its inhabitants. All sorts of cloths, groceries, and butcher- meat can be got here as good as in Glasgow, and the number of shops for retailing these articles shews that the demand is great. That the morals of the people are improved in proportion to their means and opportunity, it would perhaps be hazardous to assert. Certainly there is no longer that reckless daring of the law which was characteristic of the place when it was a seat of smuggling ; yet offences are too frequent, which are generally the results of excessive drinking, — a prevailing vice in this place as in most others at the present day, and it is melancholy to see the idleness, pro- fanity, and wretchedness to which it leads. Here the people have many strong and encouraging proofs that industry and sobriety can raise not only to independence, but to wealth, for here there are men who began the world, after having got only the most ordinary education, and without any earthly means to assist them, but their own health and prudence, and who now are living with their fami- lies in affluence, respected by all, and relieving the necessities of many who commenced with equal means of success. There has always been a due share of valour and patriotism in this place. At the Revolution, a company of volunteers was raised in defence of the King and constitution, and we have already noticed the com- pany raised by Mr Wotherspoon ih 1745. During the war with Buonaparte, the. Beith volunteers and local militia were always 604 AYRSHIUE. prompt and respectable ; and individuals belonging to the place have fought with Abercromby in Egypt, with Nelson at Trafal- gar, and with Wellington at Waterloo, There is a generous feel- ing in the better classes towards their inferiors, which has been evinced in liberal subscriptions and exertions for them during pe- riods of public distress. Were there more morality and sobriety, there would be less poverty and want, and the indigent would be more cheerfully and liberally supplied, having the claims of cha- racter to plead on their behalf, and giving the assurance that they would use. prudently and beneBcially the alms they received. There is generally speaking a good attendance on public worship, yet it is to be regretted that this divine and merciful ordinance is most neglected by the operative and poorer classes, who, being less en- lightened by education, and having a greatdt struggle with the world, and being more exposed to the snares and temptations of sin, stand in the greater need of the instructions and warnings, aids, and consolations of the Gospel preached. And it is painful to con- clude, that, amid many favourable symptoms, there is mingled much carelessness about religion, and much profanation of the Sabbath; while many are given to intemperance and vice, bringing on them- selves, and entailing on their helpless families, wretchedness and misery, and gradually undermining those habits of industry, and that spirit of independence, which were so long characteristic of the people of Scotland. May 1839. PARISH OF RICCARTON. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JAMES PORTEOUS, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Etymology. — Riccarton, formerly Richardtown, was so called, it is commonly said, from a Richard Wallace, or Walays, or Va- lense, who was proprietor of lands in the neighbourhood. He is generally believed to have been uncle of the celebrated Sir Wil- liam Wallace ; but this is very doubtful. The parish seems to have borne the name of Richarton, long before this period. The Richard Wallace from whom the name of the parish and village is derived, was most probably the individual of that name to whom the estate was originally given by W^alter High Steward of Scot- land, and who lived above 140 years before the time of Sir WiU liam Wallace. Boundaries^ Extrntj Sfc, — The parish is bounded on the north, by the river Irvine, which separates it from Kilmarnock ; on the south, by Craigie, Mauchline, and Galston ; on the east, by Gal- ston ; and on the west, by Symington and Dundonald. Its length from east to west is about 8 miles, and its greatest breadth about 3 miles. It is situated on the north verge of Kyle Stewart, which forms a part of the middle of the three grand divisions of the county. The village of Riccarton is distant from the cross of Kil- marnock one mile, and from Ayr eleven miles. Topographical Appearances, S^c. — The general aspect of the parish is, upon the whole, beautiful. But there is not a great diversity of landscape. Its surface is gently undulating, the ground rising gradually towards the south and east, till it terminates in a ridge of hills of no great elevation,-— the highest eminence not be- ing above 500 feet in height The exposure is northern, which lays it open to the severe and chilly blasts from that direction. As the ground towards the south is considerably elevated above that on the north or Cunninghame side of the river, the view towards that 606 AYRSHIRE. ^ quarter is very imposing, commanding a vast extent of beautiful country, but especially of the vale of the Irvine. At a very short distance v^est from the village, on the farm of Yardside, a view may be had of the populous and thriving town of Kilmarnock. The soil is rather of a stiff clayey nature, but when drained is ca- pable of raising excellent crops. The holm lands immediately ad- joining the river are, in general, of superior quality. Some of the farms on which these lands are found, may be considered as valu- able and productive as any in the county. Hydrography, — There are only two streams of any size in the parish, — the Irvine, which bounds it on the north, and the Cess- nock, which intersects it, and enters the Irvine at a spot about three miles east of the village. The banks of the Irvine are here very tame and uninteresting, the grounds on both sides being almost quite flat, and, in some places, the waters kept in by artificial em- bankments. This, however, is not the general character of the banks of the Irvine. The banks of the Cessnock are much more picturesque and varied. It is reckoned an excellent fishing stream ; but from there being few enclosures on its banks, it is much in- jured by poaching. There are many copious and perennial springs in every quarter of the parish, but the waters of many of them having mineral im- pregnations, are not fit for domestic uses. Geology and Mineralogy. — There is a considerable variety of valuable minerals to be met with in different parts of the parish, such as coal, limestone, sandstone, and brick clay, and all of them of the best quality. The coal seems to be spread to a very wide extent That found on Caprington estate is known to be of a su- perior quality, and is much used in the neighbourhood for common purposes : and not inferior in quality, though rather of a different texture and nature, is that worked on the lands of Skerrington and Barleith. The coal here seems to have been wrought from a very early date, as the old wastes which are occasionally met with, most clearly show. The blind-coal, or stone-coal, or anthracite, is of a pe- culiar nature. Though not exclusively confined to this parish, it is now chiefly got here, and the working of it is carried on to a very considerable extent. Its chemical constituents are 89 parts out of 100 of pure carbon, 8.5 of volatile matter, and 1.6 of earthy sub- stances. It is of greater specific gravity than common coal, of greater hardness, and of a peculiar lustre. It burns without either smoke or flame, which renders it of invaluable importance in the RICCARTON. 607 drying of grain, malt, and for similar purposes. Its geological position is the lowest of all the coal strata, at least so far as has yet been ascertained ; for though coal has been searched for in the neighbourhood fully 45 fathoms below it, yet none has b^en found, though appearances are favourable. The direction of the dip of the coal strata is towards the south or south-easti The depth here varies from 40 fathoms till it crops out at the sur&ce. The blind coal is employed in the neighbourhood, but only in small quantities, for the burning of lime. It is chiefly exported to Ireland, and that in very large quantities, for the uses above spe- cified. It is carried for exportation to Troon from the Ca- prington coal-works by a railway, and from the other works by carts, either to Ayr or Irvine. Being scarce, it is much higher in price than the common fire coal, selling at present at the pit mouth for 7s. 6d. per imperial ton. Were it in this quarter employed in the smelting of metals, for which it is so well adapted, by its contain- ing so little volatile matter, and for which it is so much, and so sucessfully, used in difierent parts of England and Wales, — its value would be much increased. Its heating properties have been found by experiment to be fully more than double those of the com- mon bituminous coal. From an idea that it contains much sulphu- rous matter in its composition, it is not used as ordinary fuel. — The freestone found in the parish is very good, and is both of a red and of a yellowish colour. The limestone worked in the parish is rec- koned of superior quality, and is sold in great quantities, both for the purposes of building and agriculture. There are only two lime- works in the parish. In the limestone quarry, on the estate of Knockmarloch, are to be found many interesting petrifactions, both of vegetable and animal productions, as ferns, branches of trees, shells both univalve and bivalve. The quarry is situated on the north side *of the Craigie hills, at an elevation of nearly 500 feet. From the excellent quality of the clay met with on different estates, the bricks and tiles made in the parish are in much repute. No ironstone has as yet been wrought here, but there can be no doubt of its existence. The rocks are all of the secondary and alluvial classes. II. — Civil History. Village ofRiccarton. — The village is of considerable antiquity; but it is not above seventy years since it became of any size, — when the greatest part was feued from the Earl of Marchmont, bus- band of the heiress of Cessnock, to whom the adjoining lands be- 608 AYllSHIRE. longed. There is no civil jurisdiction connected with it. The superiority of the greater part of it now belongs to the Duke of Portland ; and Mr Deans of Kirkstyle is superior of the remainder. Since the passing of the Reform Act, it has been included in the extended burgh of Kilmarnock. Eminent Characters, — In connexion with this parish may be mentioned the famous Sir William Wallace, who resided here for some time with his paternal uncle, proprietor of the lands of Ric* carton. It is said that he fled hither after his slaughter of the noted Cumberland chief, Selby, governor of Dundee. During his stay here, (according to Blind Harry, who narrates the exploit,) while fishing in the Irvine, he encountered five English soldiers, three of whom he slew with his rod, when the other two fled. The scene of this bloody afi*ray is said to have been on the banks of the stream immediately below the farm-house of Maxholm, about half a-mile west of the church, and long marked out by a thorn bush, which, from that circumstance, was properly called the ^^ bickering buss." This thorn has, of late years, been re- moved by some Gothic hand. Others suppose the scene to have been on the lands of Holms, on the opposite side of the river ; but of this the probability is very small. The mansion- house of Riccarton is now entirely destroyed. The farm-house of Yardside stands on the same site. Some remains, however, of the trees which surrounded it, and especially a pear*tree, said to have been planted by the band of the hero himself, are still to be 3een ; and it is reported that the stone now set over the fire-place of the manse kitchen, is the identical mantel-piece of the dining- room of that once venerable mansion. Sir John Cuninghame of Caprington, who W2ls created a baro- net by King Charles IL, was a lawyer of great eminence in his day. He was employed as counsel for his country against the Duke of Lauderdale's government in Scotland. Bishop Burnet, in his History of his Times, speaks of him as being ^^ not only learned in the civil and canon law, and in all philosophical learning, but as being universal in all learning; a great divine, and besides had the most universal, and indeed the most deserved reputation for integrity and virtue of any man, not only of his profession, but of the whole nation.'^ Mr John Cuninghame, second son of the above, was the first who read lectures on the Roman law in Scot- land as well as on Scotch law ; and he continued to do so till 1710, when he died. i I RICCARTON. 60» We have also to record, as connected with this parish by birtli; Sir James Shaw, Baronet, the first Scotchman who had ever been Lord Mayor of London, and who is at present Chamberlain of that city. He was bom at Mosshead, on the property of Trees- bank, and for some time resided here during his earlier years. Though long resident out of his native parish, he fondly remem* bers it, and contributes largely to any benevolent scheme in con-« nection either with it or its neighbourhood. But delicacy preveuta me from saying more of this much respected and most benevolent individual. Colonel Macgregor, author of the Narrative of the Loss of the Kent East Indiaman, and at present head of the Constabulary in Ireland, is connected with the parish by property, having married a oo-heiress of the late Sir William Cuninghame of Caprington. Principal Land^owners. — His Grace the Duke of Portland; John Smith Cuninghame, Esq. of Caprington ; G. J. Campbell, Esq. of Treesbank ; the Hon. Colonel Macadam Cathcart of Craigengillan ; C. Shedden, Esq. of Knockmarloch ; W. Cuning- ham, Esq. of Lainshaw ; James Fairley, Esq. of Holmes ; Colonel Clark of Shawhill ; Captain Tait of Milng ; Messrs Howie of Kaimshill ; Cambell of Skerrington ; Thomas Brown, Esq. of Lonfin ; Hamilton, Esq. of Hillhouse ; John Deans, Esq. of Kirkstyle ; and a few others of smaller property. Parochial Registers. — The only registers existing, or which seem ever to have been kept, are the session records, commencing with the year 1695; the registers of births and marriages and the mi- nutes of heritors' meetings. Except the registers of births and marriages, none seem to have been regularly kept ; and it is only within these last ten years that the minutes of the heritors have been at all accurately kept The preservation of the oldest of these registers is altogether owing to the present session-clerk, Mr W. Hood, who, some time ago, with much labour and pains, col- lected them and other valuable papers connected with the parish, and who got them substantially bound, forming in all an import- ant parochial document Ancient and Modem Buildings. — Remains of several ancient biiildings are to be met with throughout the parish ; but none seem to have been of any great extent or importance. The Castle of Caprington, though much changed by late repairs, id a building of very considerable antiquity, being mentioned in a charter be^ longing to the family^ bearing date LSdd, under the name of AYiL 2 q 610 AYRSHIRK. ^' Castellum turris fortalicium de Caprington." It origioaliy be* longed to a branch of the Wallace family. It stands in a iow si- tuation, on the very banks of the Irvine ; yet at the same time it is considerably elevated above the grounds immediately siirrouad- ing it, being built upon a fine basalt rock, curiously jutting out of the vale below. It is a very massy building, in the old baronial style, with a lofty tower in the centre, over the main entrance, and which latter is protected by a spacious archway and towers, giving to the whole a very noble and commanding appearance. Consi^ dering the immense size of the castle, and the good condition of the grounds, it may very fairly be considered the first residence in the parish. About a mile south of Capriugton, is situated Treesbank, the beautiful residence of G. J. Campbell, Esq., representative and direct lineal descendant of the once distinguished family of the Campbelk of Cessnock. The house is plain externally, but a large and handsome addition having just been made to it, it is now very comfortable and commodious. The grounds and the view from them are very beautiful. The other residences are Sbawhiil, a modern and very neat building. Dollars, Bellfield, and Milrig, which last is rebuilding in an elegant style. 1 1 1. — POPUL ATI ON. When the returns were made by Dr Webster in 1755, the po- pulation was only 745. In 1792, it had amounted to 1000, the increase being in the village* In 1821, it was 2122. In 1831, it has risen to 2499. There were then, according to the Govern-* ment census, 356 houses ; 491 families ; 3 houses building, and 5 uninhabited ; 85 families employed in agriculture ; 398 in tarade» manufactures, &c. ; and 8 families not belonging to either of the other two classes. There were 568 males upwards of twenty years of age ; 40 occupiers of the first class in agriculture ; 36 of the second-class ; and 73 agricultural labourers. 283 people were em* ployed in retail trade and handicraft ; 17 were professional and educated men ; 70 labourers not agricultural. The village of Ricj carton at that time contained 945 individuals ; of these, 465 were males, 480 females. The males in tlie whole parish were 1250, females, 1249. By a private census made in 1888, the popo* lation was 2714. Males married, 520; widowers, 25; widows^ 40. Total of females, 1404; of males, 1810. Children under twelve, 930; 40 individuals above seventy ; 12 above eighty, one RICCARTON. 611 in her ninetieth year, and another in her ninety-sixth ; 2 fatuous ; 2 insane; 1 blind; 1 deaf and dumb; 22 illegitimate children dur- ing the last three years. The causes of the increase in the number of the population at different periods are various. The increase which took place be- tween 1755 and 1792, arose from the great facilities and encou-* ragement given to feuing in the village. That occurring betwiit 1811 and 1831, may be attributed to a decreet of the Court of Session, finding that the lands of Milrig and the village and lands of Somhili did not belong to Galston, but to this parish. And that which has occurred since, may be assigned to the opening of new coal pits, and the erection of bricks works on different estates. And in consequence of another large coaUwork having just com- menced, and an extensive cotton-printing establishment having been erected in the immediate neighbourhood, as well as from a new line of road having been lately opened, which offers a very fa- vourable opportunity for building, — there is every prospect of a rapid and large increase, especially in the village population. Habits and Character of the People. — The people are plain and unaffected in their manners, industrious in their habits, and on Sabbath and other holidays neatly and well-dressed ; their ordi** nary food simple, and when they are able to afford it, substantial* We doubt much whether they enjoy m^ny of the comforts of life, especially those employed in manufactures, the wages earned being at best but small, while the untoward fluctuations in trade often expose them to much poverty. The country population is, in- deed^ most respectable, the most of them being seemingly in easy circumstances ; f hey are steady and regular in their habits, atten- tive to religious ordinances, intelligent and well-principled* I am happy to bear testimony to the general good conduct of a very large class of the inhabitants. I mean the colliers. There are very many of them in comfortable circumstances — inhabiting their own houses, bringing up their families respectably, and seemingly surrounded with many comforts ; many of them intelligent and pious men, and several of them having family Worship regularly in their bouses. Indeed, I may almost say with confidence, what can be but seldom' said of the same class of workmen, that they are among the most orderly, industrious, and intelligent of our pa* rishioners; and much of this is owing to the circumstances, that most of them are natives of the place, and that the different coal* proprietors are very careful in employing and encouraging only the best behaved. 012 AYRSHIRE. IV. — Industry. Manufactures, — Hand-loom weaving is tbe chief branch of ma- nufacture carried on in the parish. The principal kinds of work done, are harness-shawls, plain-middles, and mousselin-de-laine* The work is got from Kilmarnock and Paisley/ There are in the village between 40 and 50 families depending on the weaving, 94 weavers, between 50 and 60 pirn-winders, 40 draw-boys. The wages of the first-class. Ids., deduct expenses, 4s., neat wages, 9s. ; second-cluss, 7s., deduct expenses. Is. 6d., neat wages, 5s. 6d. Draw-boys receive from 2s. to 2s. 8d. per week ; pim-wioders^ 4d. to 8d. per day. We understand that the making of shoes for the foreign markets constituted at one time a very considera- ble branch of trade carried on here, bat of late, from various causes, it has greatly declined, so that there is not above a dozen DOW employed in it in all the parish. A great proportion of the females in the parish are employed id sewing and embroidering muslin. Their wages vary from 9d. to ds. 6d. per week ; but this latter sum can only be earned at the best work, and by the most expert sewers, and at much ex- pense of comfort to themselves. The employment, we believe, is very injurious to the general health of those employed, but espe- cially to their chest and eyes. Affriculture.'-^The parish contains about 18,000 acres,' 500 of which are under wood, about 700 still in moss ; which last, how- ever, are yearly diminishing, as the different proprietors and far- mers connected with them are yearly making inroads upon them with tile-draining and the plough-share. The rest is under oulti- Yation. The rent of land varies from L. 1, 10s. to L.d, lOs. per acre. The grazing of a cow or ox, L. 4. No sheep are grazed in the parish, excepting a few in the parks immediately surround- ing the different mansions of proprietors. The cows are chiefly of the true Ayrshire breed, and the liorses used for labour are alt mostly of tbe Clydesdale variety. Rate of Wages. — Farm-servants' wages yearly are from L. 12 to li. 16, with food; women's, from L. 7 to L. 10 ; labourers in sum- mer receive 12s.; in winter, 10s. Dairy. — This is much attended to, and from its produce the Mfeater part of the rent in many cases is paid. Above 160 tons of cheese are produced annually. Other parishes may be better known for their dairy produce than this, but there are several in- dividuals in the parish whose cheese, with the other productions RICCAUTON. 613^ of their dairy, can bear comparison with any in the county. To the making of cheese the utmost attention seems to be paid, both as it regards the mode of its manufacture and the materials of which it is made. Cheese of the best quality is selling at present about 12s. per stone, Dutch weight. The price is regarded as high. Husbandry. — Very great improvements are every year making in this province of industry, both from tile-draining, ditching, liming, enclosing, &e. and should they continue to go forward for a series of years, the beneGcial results both to landlord and tenant will be very considerable ; for while they will secure higher rents to the former, they will enable the latter, with much less difficulty and risk, from the improved quality of the crops and their greater certainty, notwith- standing the variableness of climate and other uncontrollable contin* gencies, to pay them. By the furrow-draining, which is decidedly the greatest improvement, the land may be said to increase in value fully at an average about L. 1 per acre, of annual rental. The value of this improvement depends in individual cases upon several circum- stances, such as the nature of the ground drained, the width be- tween the drains, the size of the tiles used, &c. However, almost in every case, the improvement is more or less felt. The amount of land drained in the parish annually, is upwards of 200 acres. The cost of draining an acre is about L. 6. If the proprietor does the whole, which sometimes happens, then the tenant pays in conside- ration 5s. per acre additional rent during his lease. This latter practice is not frequent with the landholders in this part, except with the Duke of Portland, who drains the most extensively ; but it is thought by men of much experience that they overlook their own interest in not adopting it. The crops raised are oats, wheat, barley, potatoes, turnips. The usual rotation is, two or three years tillage, one hay, and five pasture. This order, however, is sometimes deviated from, according to the nature of the soil, &c. The rental of the parish is supposed to amount to betweenr L. 90C0 and L. 10,000 annually, and the gross rental arising from lands, coal and tile-works, may be stated at about L. 15,000. The average size of farms is eighty acres. The enclosures in the parish are good, formed almost solely of hedge-rows, and these very thriving. The farm-steadings on most of the properties are in good condition ; many of them have double storied dwelling- houses, with extensive andsubstantial offices. The houses are chief- ly thatched, but the larger and newer ones are almost all slated. 614 AYRSHIRE. v.— Parochial Economy. ' The nearest town is Kilmaniock, which is distant oi>ly one mile from the village* Villages. — Riccarton village contains nearly 1290 inhabitanta. There are two other villages in the parish, viz, Hurlford and Sora* hill. In the former, there is a population betwixt 800 and 400 chiefly connected with different coal^works in the neigbhourhood ; and in the latter and its neighbourhood, which is above siiL miles from Riccarton, the population is nearly 100, Means of Commtsnicationi 4*c. — There are two post deliveriea from Kilmarnock daily« There are three great lines of highway traversing the parish,— one from London to Gla.Hgow, — another from Glasgow to Ayr and Portpatrick, which passes through the village, — and a third from Ayr to Edinburgh, which passes through the villages of Riccarton and Hurlford. These are kept in excel- lent order. The parish roads are likewise in tolerably good repair* Three stage-coaches, besides the Portpatrick mail» pass through the village from Glasgow to Ayr, and return daily* There is be* sides a coach which runs through the parish, and returns every day from Edinburgh and Ayr ; one which runs from Glasgow to DuiD«« fries; and a public omnibus betwixt Kilmarnock and Ayr. A private branch railway passes from the great coal^works at Ca< prington to the Kilmarnock and Troon railway. The great Western Railway between London and Glasgow, now in cootem* plation, is expected to cross the parish towards its eastern extrevii- ty on the line to Kilmarnock, ^ould it be carried into executioo, the advantage to the parish will be incalculable. Bridges. — There are three principal bridges all over the Irvine^ two at the village of Riccarton, and the other at Hurlford. One of those at Riccarton has been but lately built and only opened last Whitsunday. It is very handsome and substantial. It has three skewed arches, thus forming the largest bridge of the kind in this county, if not in Scotland. The bridge itself, with the sew line of road connected with it, forms a most convenient and beauti* ful outlet from Kilmarnock, as well as a decided improvement to the village. The old bridge, which stands about thirty yards up from the new one, is in good condition. The other bridge is at Hurlford. It lately underwent very extensive alterations and re« pairs, which have rendered it very spacious and substantial. The smaller bridges in the parish are all in good order. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish originally was a chaplaiocy be* i RICCARTON. 615 • longing to Dundonald. Afterwards, it was given to the convent of Dalmiilin, on the bank of the Ayr ; but upon the demolition of that religious house, it was transferred to the monks of Paisley, in whose hands it remained till the Reformation, while the duties of it were performed by a curate or chaplain, appointed by that monastery. Afber the Reformation, it was united to the parish of Craigie, and continued so till its final disjunction in 1648. In 1621, the whole tithes belonged to the Earl of Abercorn. The patronage, too, was in his hands ; but soon afterwards it was con- ferred upon the family of Caprington, who have continued to ex- ercise it ever since. It is one of the best endowed parishes in the county. The present incumbent is the sixth minister since the Revolution. Church. — The present church was built in 1823, but not on the site of the former one, which was in the burying-ground. It is erected on a mound in the middle of the village, partly natu<- ral and partly artificial, and which was formerly called *^ Seat of Judgment," having been, it is supposed, one of those court bills where justice was administered and executed in ancient times. It is a plain square building, of no particular style of ar- chitecture, but very substantial and commodious, and alike com- fortable both for speaker and hearer. It is ornamented with a handsome spire and clock, and, as it stands on a considerable emi^ nenoe, it forms a conspicuous object in the landscape. It cost, in* eluding every expense, about Jj.4000. It might contain, allowing eighteen inches for each, 1192 sittings; but by the sheriflTs de- creet, it is allocated for little more than 1000. The rest includes table-seats, &c. which are all free sittings. The situation of the church is rather awkward, being nearly six miles from the one end of the parish, and two from the other ; but still it is not inconve- niently for the great bulk of the inhabitants ; the greater propor- tion of tliem being within a mile and a half distant, and nearly the one-half being closely adjacent to it. The system of seat-letting is not common, — such seats as are let, except a few, being let at only a nominal price. Manse, — The manse and office-houses were built between forty and fifty years ago. Upon the entrance of the present in- cumbent in 1837, they uhderwent some repairs, which have ren- dered them very comfortable. The glebe, including garden, stance of house, &c. is about 8 acres in extent. Naturally, the soil is good, but, being in bad condition, it would not rent at present &1& AYtrsHlRB. above L. 2, lOs. an acre. The garden contains ab6ut an acre, and is well enclosed on two sides by a high and substantial wall, lately built at the sole expense of the heritors^ The stipend, as de- creed By the Court in 181 J, consists of 111 bolls, 1 firlot, 1 peck^ U lippy meal, 77 bolls, 3 firlots, I peck, flippy barley, with L. 60, ds« 8d. in money, and L, 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. There is no Dissenting place of worship in the parish. About forty years ago a chapel in connection with the Relief body was erected in the village ; but it has long since been pulled down. The parish church isi well attended. The number of communi- cants on last sacramental occasion was between 600 and 700, those who communicated for the first time amountincr to 120. The sacra- meut of the Lord's Supper has hitherto been dispensed only once a-year ; but arrangements have now been made for its dispensation twice a-year. The number of individuals belonging to the Esta- blished Church, when last ascertained, was 2410; to other deno- minations, including United Secession, Relief, Old Light, Came- ronians, or Macmillanites, Independents, Baptists, Methodbts, Episcopalians, and Roman Catholics, 304. Education. — There are three schools in the parish, attended by upwards of 250 scholars. The average attendance at the parish school is 100. The branches taught are, English reading, spel- ling, and grammar, arithmetic, writing and book-keeping, Latin^ Greek, and French. The fees per quarter are the following : lor English reading, Ss.; reading and writing, 3s. 6d., with arithmetic, 4s.; book-keeping, 6s.; Latin, 7s. 6d., with Greek, lOs. Grene- rally about one*ha]f are taught reading only; the rest receive the various other branches above specified. The schoolmaster has the maximum salary. The average amount of fees annually is L.50. He enjoys other small salaries and perquisites, as session, heritor's clerk, &c One of the other schools is in the village, at- tended by about 100 scholars. The other is at Hurlford, attended by about 50 scholars ; and to this are attached a free house and garden. The house was built by subscription, and the grouud was given by the Duke of Portland. The teacher has no income in- dependent of his fees. Nothing but the ordinary branches are taught in these private schools. A school of industry for femalep^ and an infant school are both very much needed in the parish* There are two Sabbath schools, one in the village of Riccarton, and the other at Hurlford ; they are attended by about 180 scho- lars, and are both under the superintendence of the minister. BICtARTON. 617 Ubraries. — There is only one public library in tbe parish ; it contains more than 400 volumes. The books are select, and chiefly historical, biographical, and religious. It is open to all the parish who comply with the prescribed regulations, and those chil- dren who attend the Sabbath evening classes, and who are above thirteen years of age, have the use of the books goitis. It has just been opened, and has about 120 readers, who, with the ex- ceptions mentioned above, pay 2d. per month each ; no entry money. Friendly Societies^ 8fc» — In the parish, there are at present four friendly societies. The Benevolent Society, instituted in 1807, with 60 members, weekly subscription, 2d. each ; aliment when bed-ridden, 5s. weekly ; aliment when walking about, 3s. ; funeral allowance, 6d. from each member ; annual income, L.26 ; expen. diture annually, L.ld; surplus fund, L.70. The Friendship So^ cietyf instituted in 1804, with 53 members, weekly subscription, 2d. each when needed ; aliment when confined to bed, 5s. weekly ; when able to walk about, 2s. 6d. weekly ; funeral allowance, 6d. from each member; annual income, L.16, 18s. dd.; annual out- lay, L. 16, 12s. lOd.; surplus funds, L.55, 6s. l^d. Munificent Friendly Society, instituted in 1815, with 174 members; weekly subscription, 2d. each : when confined to bed, 5s. ; when able to walk about, 3s. ; funeral allowance, 6d. from each member, and as much from the funds as make Lb5 ; annual income, IjJ1% 8s. 7d. ; disbursements, L.51, 18s. 51.; surplus funds, L.300 at in- terest. There is another Society for the workmen employed in Caprington coal-works, called " Caprington Benevolent Society," instituted in 1836. All belonging to the coal-works between fifteen and forty-five may enter as members. It has 100 members, who pay 1^. weekly; each member has 4s. per week, if unable to work ; L.1, 10s. is allowed for funeral expenses ; annual in- come, L.21 ; surplus fund, L. 50, L. 40 of which lie at interest. All fines, dues, and entries are devoted to thefimds, and the pro- prietor gives L. 10 annually. There is also an Association con- nected with these coal-wbrks, to assist in defraying the funeral ex- penses of its members and their families; L. 2, 10s. are allowed for a member; L. 1, 10s. for his wife ; L. 1 for a child« Kach pays a sum according as it is required. There is a Temperance Society in the village vrith 35 mem- bers, and a juvenile branch with 12. There is also an Associa*- tion, called the Working Men's Association, for political purposes. 618 AYRSHIRE* We regret that there is, at present, no Society for missionary or religious purposes, and, so far as we have learned, there never has been. A prayer meeting was held for many years in the vil- lage, but has been discontinued. We hope, however, to have others of a similar nature speedily commenced. Po&r. — The average number of paupers has, of late years, been about 30 ; the number upon the occasional list is rather more. — The average amount of aliment yearly is L.6, lowest, L. 1, 5s.; average allowance monthly, 6s. 6d. There are two insane persons who receive each L. 14 annually. The assessment of the heritors b voluntary, and amounts to L. 150 per annum; collections at church doors, L. 48; the sums arising from proclamation and mortcloth dues, L. 5 : in all L. 200. But put of this fund are paid the salaries of the precentor, beadle, and the person employ- ed in cleaning the cbureh, as well as any small repairs upon the church, manse, and school-house. Besides these disburse- ments to the poor, there are between seventy and eighty cart-loads of coal given to them annually by a few of the proprietors, and which the farmers in the neighbourhood drive gratuitously. /nn«, Alehouses, — There are 18 of such houses in the parish, which, considering its neighbourhood to Kilmarnock, are hr too many for any good or useful purpose. FueL — Coal is the only fuel in use, and it is got at very reason- able prices. The price of the 6re-coal at the pit-mouth, at pre- sent, varies from 58. to 6s. per imperial ton. Miscellaneous Observations. Many changes have taken place in the parish since the last Statistical Account was drawn up in 1 792, and many of them de- cided improvements. The people seem more intelligent; their wages are much higher, in some cases doubled ; their comforts upon the whole greater. From the tile-draining the land has sin- gularly improved, being, in consequence, now able to produce much better crops, and with greater certainty, than before. A considerable quantity of moss has been rendered arable since that time, there being now only about 70 acres in that state, whereas then there were 250. Instances of longevity seem now to be more numerous than formerly ; and the population has nearly trebled. On most properties, the faroKsteadings have been much improved; and the facilities of communication of every kind are now much snore numerous. Church accommodation has been greatly in- creased ; education is carried on with greater spirit, and the bran- IRVINE. 619 diet taught are more varied. It is only in the religious and moral habits o^^ the people that I fear there has been no corresponding adfanoement. November 1839* PARISH OF IRVINE. PRK8BYTBRY OF IRVINF., SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR, THE REV. JOHN V^ILSON, A. M. MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Extent^ Sfc. — Thb parish is upwards of four miles in lengthy and where its width is greatest, it is nearly two miles broad. On the east and south-east, it is divided from the pariah of Dreghorn by the river Annick. It is divided from Kilwinnii^, on the west, by the Garnock ; and on the north-west, by a small stream called the Bedburn. On the south, the river Irvine separates it from the parish of Dundonald ; and on the north, it is bounded by the pa- rish of Stewarton. The parish abounds in seams of coal. Good building stone is found in various districts ; more -especially, there is an extensive quarry near the town, which has long been famed for the supply which it affords of very superior oven soles. II. — Civil History. TotDB.-*-Irvine, formerly written Irwyn and Jrwine, is beautifully situated on the north bank of the river Irvine, and not far from the confluence of the Irvine and the Garnock. By the river from which jt takes its name, it is separated, as already stated, from the parish of Dundonald. But although the ancient burgh is so s^ parated, the extended or parliamentary burgh embraces a portion of the parish of Dundonald. In this portion, are the mouth and tlie harbour of the river Irvine. Before the harbour of Port- Glas- gow was erected, Irvine was the place to which were brought the goods imported by the merchants of Glasgow. In a work publish- ed in 16tM), and entitled ^* Timothy Font's Cunningham Topogra- * Compiled by the incumbent^ the Rev. John Wilson, from communicstloiM madb by J^ W. Macke«ae» Eml ; Robert MooteoaMrie, Biq. ; James Jvhniton^ £eq. ; J. Dobie, Esq. ; and David Gray, Esq. 620 AYRSHIUE. phized," this harbour is called '^ the chieff porte of ye country of Cunningham. The porte and harbry being now much decayed from qwhat it was anciently, being stopt with shelves of Sand which hinder the neir approach of shipping." As appears from the map which accompanies Font's work, the con- fluence of the rivers Irvine and Garnock had not taken place at the time to which it refers, for he describes the Garnock as emp- tying itself into the sea, about two miles from the mouth of the river Irvine. Indeed, long subsequent to Font's time, the sea came up close to the town, and vessels were loaded and discharged at what was then and is now termed the Seagate. Within the me- mory of persons now alive, the sea has receded considerably on this coast ; and very considerably since 1620, for the lower part of the Seagate is now nearly half a mile from the sea. Some time sub* sequent to the period at which Pont wrote, Thomas Tucker pub- Kshed a report in 1656 upon the settlement of the revenues and customs in Scotland. He had been sent by the government of England, for the purpose of introducing order into the collection of the revenues of the excise and customs, and was appointed one of the commissioners of the Scottish board. The district concern • kig which he waste report, consisted of *^ Glasgow, Newarke, Green- ocke. Fairly, Culburgh, Saltcoates, Bute, and lastly, Irwyn." " Ir- wyn," says he, *' a small burgh towue lying at the mouth of a river of the same name, which hath some time been a pretty small port, but at present clogged and almost choaked up with sand, which the western sea beats into it, soe as it wrestles for life to main- taine a small trade to France, Norwaiy, and Ireland, with herring and other goods, brought on horseback from Glasgow, for the purchasing timber, wine, and other commodities to supply theyr occasions with. The vessels belonging to this district are, viz. To Glasgowe, 12, viz. 3 of 150 tons ; 1 of 140 ; 2 of 100 ; I of 50 ;^ 8 of 30 ; 1 of 15 : I of 12. — Renfrew, 3 or 4 boates of five or si&> tonnes a piece« Irwin, 3 or 4, the biggest not exceeding sixteen tonnes.'* This report by Tucker exhibits the state of trade as very small ftnd confined, in 1656; but about the beginning of the last cen- tury, it appears to have increased very considerably — as there were 1618 barrels of herrings exported in the year 1715, the bounty al- lowed on which amounted to L.843, and in the year 1720 there were 107,533 pounds of tobacco exported, the drawback of duty on which amounted 40 L.2550. About this period, and for a good IRVINE. 621 many years afterwards, smuggling appears to have been carried on very extensively and in a very daring manner. It appears by th^ custom-house books at Irvine, that the custom-house there was re- peatedly broken into and robbed of large quantities of seized goods by bands of armed men, and that several people in the bet- ter ranks of life were concerned in these lawless proceedings. Latterly smuggling was chiefly confined to whisky from Arran ; biit of late years, this illicit traffic has almost entn*ely ceased. According to the official returns published by Chalmers in his Caledonia^ Irvine was the third port in Scotland in the year 1760. Port- Glasgow, including, as it then did, Greenock and Glasgow, was first, and LeitK second, in the importance aris- ing from the number and tonnage of vessels. In Leith at that period, there were 79 ; whilst in Irvine, there were 77 vessels. The subsequent increase of trade has been very considerable. At the present day, all vessels belonging to the coast of Ayr- shire, from Troon point to Largs, inclusive of Saltcoats and Ar- drossan, and all vessels belonging to Arran, are co^nprebended within the port of Irvine. Of these vessels, by far the greatest number belong to ship-owners resident in Irvine, who employ them in carrying coals chiefly coastwise and to Ireland, but not unfre- quently to France, Malta, Gibraltar, and other places in foreign countries. The imports consist of timber chiefly, but occasional- ly of grain from America, and of grain and butter from Ireland in great quantities. The timber from America yields the great- roDy of hBsgy&f annexed to the liberties of the said burgh, pro mis tarn mercandisis et mercimoniis in eisdem iibere emuceiub)— as was clearly established by charters of his Majesty's predecessors shown in inquest, &c" From these and other documents, it also appears that the jurisdiction of the magistrates of this burgh ez« tended formerly over a wide territory ; and embraced e?en crimes of a capital nature* The bui^h records contain accounts of nu- merous justiciary courts held in the burgh, for trial of capital crimes. Among others, may be mentioned a justiciary court, of which there is a full detail, held at Irvine, 20th October 1625, ** per AUanum Dunlop urbis pr»fectum dicti burgi," for ** trial of Alexander Banks, sone of Robert Banks, flesher, for the slaughter of Gilbert M^Alister, heilland man, slain in Stevenston yesterdi^^ and brought in by the Earl of Eglinton, as baillie of Cunningham, and repledge it fi*oin his court to the jurisdiction of this buqgh as ane of yair inhabitants." Generally speaking, the peculiar and distinctive power of local magistrates was restricted almost inseusibly, as the laws of the country were consolidated, and administered on more comprehen* sive principles. Of this fact, there is a striking exemplification in a case reported by Fountainhall, as to the trial of certain mer* chants in Irvine in the yeett 1712. It bad been the practice of the Irvine merchants to smuggle Irish com, stealing it in by night, '^ at many secret creeks on the shore.'' Thomas Gray, merchant in Irvine, and others, were di« lated before the justices as criminals for this offence, and for their contumacy in not appearing, were fined m L. 100 Sterling each, under the penal statutes against the importing of Irish meal. Gray suspended, and stated various important pleas : 1^, That the burgesses of Irvine were not subject to the jurisdiction of the county justices, and that the magistrates had the power of repledge ing them. This plea was repelled, and the right of repledgtng found to be in desuetude. 2i/, That it was not competent to refer the fact on which the charge rested, to the oath of party. This was also repelled, and the court found it provable by oath, as well as usury and the like. Sd^ That the fine was most exorbitant The eoort found that the offenders should not be all classed alike, for one who had only brought in a boll or two was not to be so deeply fined, as he who had brought in an hundred, and had re- iterated bis transgression, and a poor man's fine was not by Magna IRVINE. 023 CbaHa to be so great as a rich abd wetiltky iraus^ressor's,— -there* fore the Lords reponed them to tfa^r oaths, and prorogated the diet, and allowed the ordinary to consider the quality and frequency of the transgression, with the circumstance, condition, and the ability of the party, and accordingly to modify and adjust the fine as he saw fit. Says Fountainhall in the conclusion of his report^ " This importation of meal is good for the poor, plenty making it cheap, but it sinks the gentlemen's rents in these western shires; which of the two is the greater prejudice to the bulk of the na- tion, problenta e$io? Where we must likewise balance the loss and damage we suffer by the exporting so much of our money in specie to a foreign country to buy it, which diminishes our own, pro tanto. But if the victual waspurchased in Ireland by exchange of our goods given for it, that takes away that objection, founded on the export- ing our money •"" Boswell tt Gray, 29th January 1712, Mor. Diet, p. 939a The revenue of the burgh is derived chiefly from landed property* In the year 1697, it amounted to L. 1557, 2s. 7d. Scots, and the ex- penditure to L. 1481, 6s. 7d. Scots. In the year ld40,Hhe revenue amounted to L. ] 675, 6s. 1 Id. Sterling, and . the expenditure to L. 1567, 15s. 4d. Sterling. The sources in which the revenue of the burgh originated are'distinctly pointed out in several char- ters. In some measure, these sources have been dried up; but to what extent or by what means, it is not easy to determine. There is a charter in favour of the burgh, dated 8th June 1572, by King James YL, in which he grants to the said burgh, all revenues belong- ing to churchmen within the territory of the burgh, for the purpose of erecting a'school in Irvine. In this charter, he refers to annual-rents levied from certain farms, also to tenements, orchards, gardens, crofts, fruits, and duties ; but of the value of these grants, no definite es- timate can be formed. These, all and sundry, were united and incor- porated, as ordained by James in terms of this charter, *^ henceforth and hereafter to be called Our foundation of the school of Irvine." Such was the destination of the revenues belonging to churchmen, and more especially to the Carmelite friars, within the territory of the burgh. What was formerly done in fulfilment of this design does not appear from any known documents ; but in part payment of an academy built by subscription in Irvine, at the expense of L. 2100 Sterling, and having a royal charter, money has lately been expended by the burgh to the amount of L. 1633^ 4s. 6d. Salaries for the eiicourageroeDt of teachers in this academy are 624 AVnSHIRE. also paid, annually, out of the same funds. Besides, thi^ yearly expenditure is increased by the burden imposed on tbe town, of defraying the charges for occasional repairs of the building. Apart altogether from what remains of the possessions belonging in the olden time to the Carmelite friars,— 4he town has other property and other sources of income, to which references are made in the charters, and more especially in tbe charter granted by James VL, dated 1st May 1601. The situation of the town is not only beautiful but very salubri- ous, and'presents in every respect a most desirable place of residence. With the exception of an assessment of a very limited amount, for the support of the poor, there is not a local burden. The main street is wide, well-causewayed, clean, and handsome. Through- out the town, the houses, generally speaking, are excellent and commodious : in the suburbs, there are several well-built villas ; and in the immediate vicinity, there are sites eligible in the high- est degree for building. Now that communication by steam ^car- riages, with Paisley and Greenock and Port- Glasgow and Glas- gow, is both frequeut and rapid, parents may easily avail them- selves of the advantages afforded herp for the satisfactory and in- deed complete instruction of their children in every branch of clas- sical, commercial, and ornamental education. Doubtless, the communication so happily opened up will bring these advantages under the consideration of many, so as to induce them either to settle with their families in Irvine, or board their children under the care of one or other of our accomplished and efficient teachers. Among the principal buildings, the Academy deservedly claims the first notice. This large and elegant edifice was built in the year 1816. It contains seven very commodious apartments, and stands in a fine open and well-aired situation. The teachers are three in number, and all the chief branches of education are taught. There are, besides, various private educational establish* raents in the ^nrgh. The present parish church may next be no- ticed : a large and well-proportioned building, erected in the year 1774, with an elegant spire attached. The church is esti«^ mated to contain 1800 sitters. The patronage is vested in the Earl of Eglinton. There are also congregations in Irvine in con- nection with the Relief, the Associated Synod, and the Baptists. The Town-houFC was built in 1745. Besides court hall and council chambers, it cx)ntains two rooms formerly used for civil debtors, and three apartments for criminals, with police-office. lUVINE. 625 shop, and public library. The debtor's prison has this year ( 1840,) been discontinued in consequence of the New Prison Act ; and the only jail in the county for civil debtors is now at Ayr. Cri- minals are seldom confined in this jail beyond a few days ; when longer imprisonment is found necessary, they are usually trans* mitted to Ayr. A Sa?ing^8 Bank was instituted in Irvine in the year 1815, and such has been the rapid progress of this excellent institution, that, in the year 1839, the sums deposited amounted to no less than L. 1050 Sterling. The depositors consist mostly of indus<- trious mechanics and. servants. In ancient times, there was a magnificent market-cross in the centre of the town, but it was taken down in the year 1694. The principal stones of that edifice were applied in the erection of the present meal-market in 1694 and 1695. There were also two ports or great entrance gates into the town, the one extending across High Street from the west end of the Glasgow Vennel ; and the other across the street called Eglin- ton Street, near to the house now belonging to James Allan, weaver. Irvine appears to have been visited by a severe plague in 1546, in which year a commission was granted by Queen Mary, with consent of the Earl of Arran, her tutor and protector, and gover- nor of the kingdom, to the magistrates of this burgh, granting to them very extensive powers for enforcing the necessary regulations as fully as could be done by the Lord Justice- General. The present bridge of Irvine, across Irvine water, was built in 1745^, by Thomas Brown, at the contract price of L. 350 Sterling; it was materially widened and improved in the year 1827, under authority of an act of Parliament. The town is well lighted with gas, from a work erected by pub* lie subscription in 1827. ** The Seagate Castle," says Robertson in his Topographical Account of Cunningham, ^' is a, ruinous fabric of considerable anti- quity. It belongs to the Earl of Eglinton, and is supposed to have been intended as the jointure-house of the Dowager Ladies of that family. There is no date upon it ; but, from the circuoi* stance of the united arms of Montgomery and Eglinton being en- graved upon a central stone, in a vaulted chamber in the lower story, it must have been built since the union of these two fami- lies by marriage in 1361; and that it could not be much later AYR. Rr 626 AYRSHIRE. than that period, may be inferred from its structure as a house of defence! in which are many arrow-slits for bows, but no gun-ports for cannon or other fire-arms, which were introduced into Scotland about nearly the same era, and were never omitted in fortified places erected after that time. In this old castle there remains still quite entire, one of the most perfect specimens of the Saxoii or Norman round arch, that is perhaps now to be met with in Britain. It is erected over the principal gateway into the house. A square tower, in one of the corners, is evidently much more an- cient, as may be concluded not only from the style of the building, 'but from the stone being greatly more decayed from the action of the weather." The present Parliamentary constituency of the burgh is 258 ; and the muncipal constituency of that part of the burgh within the royalty is 182. The municipal government of the burgh is vested in a Provost, two Bailies, Dean of Guild, Treasurer, and twelve Councillors. There are six incorporations of trades, holding under charters or seals of cause from the magistrates and council, viz. squaremen, hammermen, coopers, tailors, shoemakers, and weavers. At pre- sent the numbers of the difl^erent trades may be computed as follows: — Squaremen, about 94; hammermen, 32; shoemakers, 37 ; tailors, 30 ; coopers, 4 ; weavers, 300. The principal inns are the Eglinton Arm's Inn and the Queen's Arm's Inn. There are three annual fairs in Irvine, — first Wednes* day of January for horses ; first Tuesday of May for cows ; third Monday and third Wednesday of August for horses* The number of hand-loom weavers in the town and parish of Irvine is about 400. Their earnings vary according to their re- spective abilities and steadiness ; but the following statement may be viewed as a fair calculation : — 100 employed, earn weekly • L. 5 eaob. 70 ..... 060 70 8 00 10 SO 12 50 14 40Q 6)2 15 Averflge wage, L. 9 2 There may be about 200 females employed in winding wef^ or preparing it for the weaver, and the earnings of this class may average 6d. per day, or 8s. per week. The number of females illviNE. 627 engaged io ornamental needle-worki may amount to nearly 2000. While learnbg their art, these persons make very little, but when they become expert workers, they will earn from lOd. to Is. 4d. per day; and the length of their day, in general, is from seven in the morning to eleven or twelve at night. Eminent Men. — The celebrated Mr Dickson, to be after men- tioned as minister of Irvine, was a poet ; and, among other poems, he published the hymn, well known under the title of ^^ O Mother dear Jerusalem.'' But, a poet of higher genius and greater nanne, is also claimed by Irvine as one of her sons, — James Montgomerie of Sheffield. At the period of his birth in ^^ the Half-way," the street so called was part of the suburbs of the royal burgh of Ir- vine, and was held as part of the parish quoad sacra ; and although the district referred to is now a distinct parish in these respects, it lies within the parliamentary burgh as now constituted. Late- ly, when on a visit to his native place, Mr Montgomerie was pub- licly received, and entertained with every possible demonstration of respect by the magistrates and inhabitants. At the time of his birth, his father held the pastorate over a small section of the Moravian Church, assembling in a chapel within the Half-way of Irvine. Over this burgh the celebrated Robert Barclay presided as pro- vost ; and in the reign of Charles L, he was one of the Commis- sioners to the English parliament. In Irvine were also born the late John Gait, Esq. well known as an author of considerable popularity ; and the Right Honour- able David Boyle, at present the distinguished head of the Court of Session. IIL — Population. The population of the town and porUh of Irvine in 16S1, . 5200 Males, ...•••. 2da0 Femalei, ....... 2870 Populationofthecountry partof theparisht • . 682 Hues in the country, • • • • • 333 Males within the royalty ... . . 1981 Females within the burgh, • ' . ; . 2536 Population of Irrine, ?th June 1841 : Males, in burgh^ ..... 1985 Females, do. . . . ... 2687 Total, . 4672 Landward district, Irvine parish, • • 620 Halfway district, (gross), • . • . 3085 Parliamentary burgh and parish total, 8377 628 AYRSHIRE. IV. — Industry. Lands in the parish of Irvine.^ - Earl of EgUnton. Arable. Wood. Policy, 66 2 18 34 Seagate Yard, 1 19 Stone Castle, 56 1 29 4 Little Stane, 90 2 3 Stanemuir, 48 5 2 3 8 Lawthom, • 116 1 8 14 1 Armsheougb, 120 36 Snodgra8S» 86 2 3 Bogside, 129 I Nether Broomlands, 80 3 32 East Do. 45 3 9 Bourtreehill, 81 5 11 3 Fencedyke, 61 3 9 1 2 Seven acres, 16 3 11 Cherrvland, 51 3 35 Roddmg hUl, 71 1 21 Holehouse, 49 1 31 Anoicklodge, 20 2 5 11 17 • Burgh of IrTine» 462 25 Colonel FuHarton, . . • 60 Towerlands, 80 Stewart* s heirs. 65 Kidsneuky 37 Lochlands, 35 I Balgrays, 280 7 Chamber houseSi . 29 37 Lochwardsy 17 3 t^ M f tJ Wv 125 25 Howmill, 26 Divot park, 8 Dal ry inplewards, 8 OuUil and, &c. 12 §s Ms^or Todd, 4 Adam Patersoo, 3 2 4 Glebe, &c. 14 Small feus. 12 Unfit for crop, 315 897 Under wood, 125 157 Roads, waters, dikes, &c 125 157 2914 9 acres. 3673 acres. The rental of arable lands in the parish amounts to L. 5273, which gives per imperial acre L.1, 15s. 7:^cl. There are some inclosiires let as high as' L. 6,'6s. per imperial acre. The general rate of small inclosures near the burgh is from L. 4 to L.5 per imperial acre. The rate at which farms are let per acre, varies from L. 2 to L. 3, 1 5s. according to quality of soil. The lands are all let for a filled sum per annqm, and all on leases for nineteen years. The tenant, in most cases, pays all public burdens, excepting cess and minister's stipend. There is but a very small portion of land in the parish let ex- I IRVINE. 629 dusively for pasture, and what is let is generally let about L. 4 per acre. The land described as unfit for crop consists mostly of drifting sand, and affords a very scanty pasture for a few cows. All the other land in the parish is arable, and has been under crop. The soil in the most part of the parish is light sand ; towards the middle, it is of a sandy loam, and towards the higher or north- east, it is a heavy clay; on the whole, it is fit for any kind of crop. Produce, — The annual amount of produce may average about (3550 quarters of grain,) 25,900 stones of hay, and 3440 bolls of potatoes, besides turnips, &c. There are from 40 to 50 men and as many women employed in agriculture, with about 60 horses. The number of dairy cows in the parish is about 370. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — The church of Irvine is an oblong square of 80 feet in length, and 60 in breadth. There is an elegant steeple attached to it ; and the interior was fitted up for the ac- commodation of 1800 sitters. It was built in 1774; and it un- derwent a great repair in 1830. Around it, there is a large bury- ing-ground ; and a field, between it and the river, is in the pos- session of the heritors, which they intend to annex to the church- yard, when it becomes necessary to do so. No part of the bury- ing- ground is held as the property of private individuals. The tomb- stones of several eminent persons distinguish this burying-ground : and of these may be mentioned the tombstones of Mr Alexander Nisbet, Mr William M'Knight, and Dr Richmond ; and that also of James Blackwood and John M^Coull, who were hanged in 1666, by sentence of the Commission which tried those who were engaged in the affair at Pentland. Among these tomb-stones there is one erected to John Peebles of Broomlands, Provost of Irvine, who died in 1596 ; and there are several others nearly as early. Originally, the church of Irvine belonged to the monastery of Kilwinning : and at the time of the Reformation, the vicarage was held by Thomas Andrew, by whom its value was stated at 200 merks yearly. The first Presbyterian minister of Irvine, Mr Thomas Young, was inducted in 1570. He was succeeded by Mr Alexander Scrimseour in 1598; and in 1610 he and several of his brethren were charged by the Lords of Secret Council with the crime of harbouring ^^ John Campell alias Fadder Christos- tome, ane known trafBcquing priest." Mr Scrimseour in 1618 was succeeded. by Mr Dickson, who was deprived of his office by the 630 AYRSUIBE. Court of High Commission ; but was afterwards restored through the influence of Alexander the Sixth Earl of Eglinton. Mr Dick- son was translated, and became Professor of Divinity, first at Glasgow, and subsequently at Edinburgh, where he died in 1662* His place as minister of Irvine was filled by Mr Alexander Nis- bet, whose character is well stated in his epitaph, as written by one of his brethren in these words :-r-<^ Grande aHquid vultu nituit, gressuque docoro ; grandius in magni dotibus ingeniL*^ — After Mr Nisbet, Mr George Hutchison became minister of Ir- vine. Not giving obedience to his bbhop, he was first silenced by the Parliament in 1662, and subsequently, in the same year, he was banished from Edinburgh ; but, upon their passing the act of indulgence, he was authorized by the Privy- Council, in 1669, to exercise the ministry at Irvine, where he died. Contemporaneously with Messrs Dickson, Nisbet, and Hutchison, Mr James Fergu<> son was minister of the adjoining parish of Kilwinning, and in conjunction with these eminent individuals, he formed the design of publishing brief expositions of the Scriptures. In part, this plan was carried mto effect, Mr Dickson, inter aHof published his ** Expositio Analytica omnium Apostolicarum Epistolarum.^ Mr Nisbet published an exposition of the two epistles of Peter, and also an Exposition of Ecclesiastes. From the pen of Mr Hutchi- son, the public received an exposition of the Book of Job, of the Minor Prophets, and of the Gospel according to the Evangelist John. <^ By all this, it appears," says Mr Patrick Warner, ^< that the people of Irvine had a long and clear day of the Grospel among them," — ^* and," adds he, *' I beg prayer in their behalf lest, because of their barrenness, the kingdom of God should be taken from them." At the time when he wrote the sentences now quoted, Mr Pa- trick Warner was minister of Irvine, having succeeded Mr Hut* cbison in 1688)i The tone of these sentences seems to indicate the existence of an unfavourable impression on his mind, as to the misimprovement of their privileges on the part of his people. At all events, we know that Mr Warner met with great discourage- ments from them in the prosecution of his ministry. Greatly op- pressed by these discouragements, he submitted the reasons of de- mission to the presbytery of Irvine in 1702.* * The reasons of demission were the following : ^^ It is not unknown to many in this presbyterie howheavie the charge of this con- gregation hath bcin to me for a long tyme, and what reasons I have to give in a dc» IRVINE. 631 Imperfect when compared with the result to be desired, and even with the result of Christianity in our day, was the state of mission thereof, which also I have some tyme offered, but hitherto have not bein taken off my hand ;— and now I am therefore constrained more eamestlie to presse the same for these reasons following :— - Ist^ I never was leg all te settled minister of Irving, having entered amongst them before our legall settlement, to preach only in a meeting-house to so many as then called me, which I then looked upon to be only for ane interim, and did not expect the libertie wee then had would have continued above a vear or two ; and if I had thought it would have been of longer oonttnowance, would never have undertaken so heavie a charge. 2d, My acceptance even of that call was upon condition and assurance given me that 1 should have a helper (for which I refer to the records of the presbyterie, ane extract whereof b herewith produced.) But that condition not having been fulBUed during the whole space of fourteen years (though they have now the legale stipend of which they had no prospect when that promise ,was made) I am no more bound by my acceptance of that call, which was but for ane interim, and upon that condition. Bd, Having latelie perused the caU given, I find more than the one^half of these who subscribed it either dead or removed out of the place, and near the one half the whole fkmilies removed, so as neither they nor any of their posterity to be found in the place. 4lhy Others are come or brought into their roume, the outcasts of all the parishes about, and some from very remote places, either altogether without testimonialls, or ininging very lame ones, and though I have bein for many years complaining of this to the magistrates, yet hitherto have had little or no redresse at all. But, on the contrary, they have received such as burgesses, whom the session unanimouslie voted should not be received as members of the congregation, so that a relation of pastor and people is made up between me and a great many of the present inhabitants of Irving by meer force and compulsion, without allowing me the libertie of giving my consent tiiereto, which yet 1 conceive is necessary to make up that relation. Sth, My hands are not strengthened in the suppressing of sin and wickedness ; but these too much encouraged by connivance and other wayes. 6lA, I am now aged above 60, my strength decayed, and my voice too weak for so numerous a congregatione. 7/A, I am not willing to mention other grievances'; some of them are known to this presbyterie. But, in short, animosities are come to so great a height (though I hope I can vindicate myself as having given no just provocation thereto), that neither can I expect that the Gospel will be received kindly off my hand by some, nor have I the freedom to administer the sacrament of the lord's Supper amongst them while these remain ; yea my hands are much weakened in preaching of the Gospel. To these reasons I crave libertie to add more, if neid be. And, in the meantime, do not presse this presbyterie to any inorderly procedure in the affair, but allow them to intimate to the congregation, that I have here given in such reasons for the presby- terie*s acceptance of my Remission, and require them to give in their answers there- to, if they have any, against the next presbyterie day. But withall, eamestlie obtest the presbyterie to do me justice, when they have considered how weighty and rele- vant my reasons are. 28th July 1702.'* Accordingly, in February 1703, as we learn from the manuscript sermons of Mr Beid, minister of Stevenston, he declared the church vacant by appointment of pres- bytery. The following passage from the discourse which he preached in the church of Irvine, on the occasion to which reference is now made, may be quoted as giving a viewof the actual state of religion in this country at that time. ** How few now-a-days esteem ministers in love for their work's sake ! how many lie at the catch, and wait for their halting I what unjust reproaches and aspersions are they many times loaded witli ; and, how readily are the enemies of a minister believecf, even by the bulk of professors I Talk of him what you will, how are his proceedings and conduct misconstructed ? What discouragements of this sort does your present minister labour under, owing partly, from the unaccountable ignorance and weakness of some ; partly, from the enmity and malice of others ; but chie6y from that decay in religion and love to it that the most part of professors are lying under. And here, sirs, I cannot but take notice of the littie love and esteem some of you, at least, in thb 632 AYRSHIRB. religious kaowledge and practice in the days to which we have now referred. Both among, the laity and the clergy, superstition was prevalent to an extraordinary and lamentable extent. Their loud- est and most plaintive waitings were raised against the sin of witchcraft, so that about the period of which we have been writ- ing, persons suspectSed of it were prosecuted with persevering in^ dustry by the people ; and, at the instigation of the clergy, they were punished by the executive, with unrelenting severity. The leading cause of the fast which the General Assembly appointed in 1649, was the supposed prevalence of witchcraft. Confession on the part of the accused was the only attainable evidence of a definite kind, and its validity was never questioned by the judges. Of proceedings in such cases, several instances are stated in the records of the presbytery of Irvine.* The only effort made in dealing with the accused was to bring them to a fuller acknow- ledgement of their guilt. This being done, the day of execution was appointed. Of the 22d April 1650, the record of the pres- bytery of Irvine bears, that, ^^ the presbyterie, finding that the sin of witchcraft was growing daillie, and that in the several paroches meikle of the hidden works of darkness was discovered and brought to light in the mercie of God, and that severalls were apprehendit and in firmance for that sin, did meet occasionallie this day to heir and receive the confessions of some, of the said sin of witchcraft, place hare shown for your bumble and godly pastor, which grievances he has these sereral years been labouring' under in tliis place, how little his heart has been encou- raged and his hands strengthened in his work. The unkind treatment h^ has met with from some is too well known in this neighbourhood. 1 especially instance those base, scurrilous, and caluminatory papers that some in this place dropped against him. Those papers contained reflections so shameful and unjust that the authors durst not avow them. It is probable there were but a few at penning of them, and possibly some of those few may be present ; and I wish there had been as few at pains to spread them. But it is not the flrst time that •sinners have been at pains to glory in, and spread abroad their own shame : however, it was your minister's good for- tune to be as generally known as the p34t AYRSHIRE. occasioDed in the Established Church by the death of Mr Ban- natyne was filled up by the appointmeDt of Dr James RichmoDd, who closed his miuistry in 1801. During his incumbency, and in thejear 1782, Mr White, the second minister of the Relief church, was ordained to that office, and in 1783 he was deposed for error in doctrine and for contumacy. His errors were adopted under the influence of a Mrs Buchan. It appears from the autograph letters of this woman, and from the correspondence of some of her followers which we have seen, that, by herself and by them, she was considered as being the spi- rit of God dwelling in flesh, — as being, in short, the incarnation of the Holy Spirit. From the terms of the libel against Mr White, we learn that by him, and as we infer by her, it was held Jbrsi^ that sin does not adhere to the believer ; secondly^ that Christ tast* ed death for all men ; and thirdfy, that, whilst the bodies of Saints under the New Testament are the temples of the Holy Ghost, the Saints under the Old Testament were not favoured with this distinction. To the honour of the inhabitants generally, and more especially of the Relief congregation, her doctrines and pretensions excited feelings of abhorrence. Petitions were presented to the Ma- gistrates, in which, by Dissenters as well as Churchmen, the ma- gistrates were called upon to apprehend her, and proceed against her as a blasphemer. * They did not do this : but they pro- ceeded to dismiss her from Irvine. *^ To protect the woman from insult,'' as we learn from the Statistical Account, by Dr Richmond, ^ the magistrates accompanied her about a mile out of town ; but, notwithstanding all their eflbrts, she was grossly insulted by the mob, thrown into ditches, and other- wise ill-used by the way. She took up her residence, that night, with some of her followers, in the neighbourhood of KiU maurs ; and, being joined by Mr White and others in the morning, the whole company, about forty in number, proceeded on their way to Mauchline, and from thence to Cumnock and to Closebum; in Dumfries-shire, singing as they went, and saying that they were go- ing to the New Jerusalem." Mrs Buchan, by one of her adhe- rents, is stated to be ^^ The very woman prophesied of in the I2th Revelations as the great wonder in Heaven/' It appears the de- lusion was not confined to Irvine, as in one of the letters mention is made of the Rev. Francis Kelly at Northampton having ** con- fessed her" (Mrs Buchan) "in the fullest manner to be of God." IRVINE. 635 • This was done in May 1784; but the woman soon died, and the establishment being broken up, the imbecile fanatics, who had fol- lowed her, returned to their former places of abode. Mr White was deposed in 1783, and Mr Peter Robertson was ordained as pastor of the Relief church in 1784. During his ministry, the building was enlarged ; and Mr Robertson died on the dOth Ja- nuary 1819. He was succeeded by Mr Archibald McLaren, who was ordained on the 2dd March 1820, and died on Saturday, 1 1th September 1841. Dr James Richmond, author of the former Statistical Account of Irvine, died in 1804, and was succeeded by Mr James Hender- son, who died in 1 820. The present incumbent was admitted to his charge on the 22d June of that year. Up to 1785, the sti- pend of this parish was seven ehalders of victual, chiefly meal, and near L. 100 Scots. The augmentation granted at that time was L. 400 Scots. The last augmentation was granted on the I9th June 1816, and commenced with crop 1816. As then granted, the stipend consists of 18 ehalders of victual, with Li.10 Ster- ling for communion elements* Originally, the glebe was about one and a-half acres, but subsequently an addition was made to it of six and a-half acres. The manse, which is commodious and handsome, was built in 1820. The Secession congregation in this place was formed in the year 1800; and in 1808, they called the Rev* Alexander Camp- bell, and he was then ordained among them as their first minister. The place where they assembled for public worship at that time was found inconvenient, and the building of their present place of worship was commenced in 1809, and was opened in January 1810. It is a neat and commodious chapel, and seated for 800. A small place of worship was opened by the Baptists in the year 1803, under the direction of the Rev. George Barclay, their first minister. He died in 1838^ and was succeeded by his son- in-law, the Rev. John Leechman, A.M. Having sold their for- mer chapel, Mr Leechman and his friends erected another more commodious and more conveniently situated. It is fitted up to bold 600 persons. HamU's hill chapel, built in 1836. The Rev. Robert Smith, minister. Seated for 350 persons. In government, the church is congregational — and in opinion, it is distinguished by holding the universality of the atonement, the pre-millennial advent of the Lord Jesus Christ, and his personal reign. 636 AYRSHIRE. The population of the parliameDtary burgh and parish, as already stated, is 8377 ; and for this population, church accommodation is provided in the following ratio: Sittings in the Established Church of Irvine, 1800 ; in the Secession Church, 800; in the Relief Church, 915; in the Baptist Church, 600; Mr Smith's chapel, 350. In addition to this accommodation for one-half of the whole population, the community is partly indebted to the liberality of the Church Extension Committee in providing additional accommodation in the parish church of FuUarton, to the extent of 850. Edticaiion. — In the Academy which has been already noticed, there are three teachers, and accommodation for pupils to the amount of 500 ; in the commercial Academy, for 150 ; accommo- dation in Mr Smith's school, 150 ; do. in Mr Clark's, 120 ; do. in free school, 120; do. in smaller private schools, 100; total, 1 140. Superadded, with the aid of L. 500 from BelPs Fund, ac- commodation, in Fullarton school, for 150; total, 1290. Poor and Parochial Funds, — According to a suggestion made by Robert Montgomerie, Esq. of Craighouse, banker in Irvine, each congregation in Irvine has, for many years, supported its own poor, — whilst the poor, not in connection with any congregation, are supported from a fund obtained by assessment, and from rents of property belonging to the kirk-session, from the fees arising from proclamations of marriages, mortcloth dues, and other parish funds. Of this fund, one-half is levied from the landward he- ritors, and the other half from proprietors and occupants of houses in town. Of paupers not connected with any denomi- nation of Christians, the average number is about 75 ; and the average expenditure for their relief, inclusive of temporary and extraordinary cases, is about L. 396 per annum. The dis- bursement of this sum is superintended by a committee, com- posed of three heritors, the provost, and two magistrates, with the clergymen and two elders from each of the Established and Dis* senting congregations, — and a committee annually appointed by those householders who are assessed. These appoint a sub-com- mittee, and an overseer, who is allowed a salary of L.10 per an- num. The co-operation of these public bodies is harmonious in the 4iighest degree, and in every respect satis&ctory to the com- munity. November 1841. PARISH OF STAIR. PRESBYTERY AND SYNOD OF AYR. THE REV. WILLIAM RORISON, MINISTER. L— Topography and Natural History. Stair was first erected into a parish in 1 673 for the accommo- dation of the noble family of Dalrymple of Stair, whose residence was a great distance from Ochiltree, their parish church. With a Tiew to this accommodation, that family agreed to pay three chalders of victual, one-half of the stipend then allotted to the minister. The other half was to be paid by the parish of Barn- weil, then suppressed and united to the adjoining parishes of Craigie and Tarbolton. On account of some differences between the parties concerned in the transaction, and a wrong locality of the stipend, the errors of the first erection were rectified by a new process in 1709, when several lands were disjoined from, and others united to, the parish. Extent, (J-c. — This district lies between the rivers Ayr and Kill, and is about 6 miles in length^by 2 in breadth, though at one place it is completely intersected by the parish of Ochiltree. It is bounded on the north by Tarbolton ; on the east by Mauch- liiie ; on the south by Ochiltree ; and on the west by Coylton. The river Ayr separates it from Tarbolton and Mauchline, and the Kill from Coylton, throughout the greater part of its boundary in that direction. The surface partakes of the undulating character of the adjoining district, and the soil, that of some small valleys along the sides of the rivers excepted, is a stiff clay, with a very reten- tive bottom. Hydrography. — There is only one loch in the parish, and that but of small extent Springs are not numerous, but a sufficient sup- ply of water is found generally at no great depth. Geology and Mineralogy. — The banks of the river Ayr consist, nearly throughout their whole extent, of red sandstone. Free- stone of a yellowish colour is found near the centre of the parish ; 638 AYRSHIRE. and about two miles to the westward, ou the banks of the Kill, there is an extensive quarry of the same description of stone, but of a greyish colour ; this is what principally is used for building all over the neighbourhood. About two miles up the same river, and in immediate connection with the coaUfield of Drongan, there is a bluish-white freestone, which is fine-grained, anfl takes a beautiful polish. In the lands of Dalmore, upon the banks of the river Ayr, is a species of whetstone, well known in the country by the name of the Water-of- Ayr stone. For several years, both the raising and dressing of the stone have been conducted with much greater care and neatness than formerly. There are two men almost constantly employed ; the one in stripping and polishing, (both of which operations are performed by machinery), the other in the quarry, or in performing whatever else may be necessary. Be* sides what is disposed of in the home-market, there is a very con- siderable quantity exported. The stone is 40 feet under cover. The dip and rise is of an east and west direction. About a quarter of a mile above the quarry, there is a trap rock which, in the bed of the river, is horizontal, but rises on the south side into a considerable eminence. Close to this, up the bed of Glenstang burn, occur beds of clay-slate, such as those found underlying the stone. These and other indications led to the at-* tempt, a few years ago, to find it (the whetstone) in this direction, and not without success ; but the quantity discovered was so small, and the quality so indifferent, that further search was given up. The stone extends up the river so as to be in immediate contact with the bed of trap, but is there very coarse. It has not been found in this situation, and the remark is to be understood as ap- plicable to what lies on the surface. Near the stone quarry, is a deposit of black lead, ascertained to be of excellent quality, and understood to be of considerable ex- tent. The late proprietor, upon proposing to resume working it, was recommended to pulverize it, as being the most advantageous form for the market He accordingly erected a miln for that pur- pose, but did not proceed ; for what reason, the writer does not recollect He enlarged and adapted the premises to the carding of wool, which he carried on for several years ; which branch, however, was given up after his decease, and all the machinery disposed of, except what was required for dressing the whetstone. STAIR. 639 The strata of copper aud antimony, mentioned in the former Account, found on the same property (also near to the whetstone), have not yet been wrought. The writer of the former Account mentions that he thought it very probable that limestone would be found in the parish ; but unfortunately, an object so interesting to the agriculturist has not yet been realized. It occurs about t^o feet in thickness in the coal shaft on the estate of Drongan, but lies too deep, and lb so situated as to be nearly, or rather altogether, unavailable for agricultural purposes. Coal abounds in the parish. The colliery mentioned in the former Account, as having been wrought on the estate of Drongan, for above a century, is still in full operation. On the lands of Drumdow, about the centre of the parish, there is also understood to be a very considerable deposit of coal, which, after being wrought for about 15 years, has been discontinued within these few months, and it is not yet arranged among the parties whether it shall be resumed. Section of a coal-pit on Drumdow. SurfiMe,— day, with a good deal of sand, Calmstone, - • • • Coal, about - . . Freestone plies, - • ' Thin do. of a yellowish colour, Very hard freestone, • Freestone plies, soft, • Very hard freestone, Blue till, of various thickness, • Coal, - - . , Pavement, of whitish clay, about A tough stone, about • About eight fathoms below this is found the next bed of coal. The intervening space mostly freestone. About two feet of very bfo'd freestone immediately above the lowest bed of coal, . « . Coal, the lowest stratum, about • • '^ 1 DepUi, 29 3 Section of a coal-pit on the estate of Drongan. Strong red clay, generally running from 24 to 54 feet, according as the ground rises or falls. Fsth. Feet; Inches. Strong ^y freestone, « • • 1 6 Soft whitish till, which, on exposure to the air, £i]ls into a sort of marl, - - . . 8 Freestone, very hard, and contains a good deal of fire, • 3 9 Light blue till, — ^becomes a sort of marl on exposure to the air, 8 Crow coal, - - . . 8 Path. Feet. Inches. 6 5 10 4 2 1 1 4 1 3 5 10 4 3 8 640 AYRSHIRE. Path. Feet. Inches Fine white freestone, - - - 7 Light blue till, also marly on exposure, - 5 Soft black stone, - - - 1 4 Very fine coal, almost unequalled, - 8 4 Freestone of a blackish colour, - - 4 Sandy till, of a grayish colour, - - 20 Hard gray limestone, mixed with mussel-shells, - 2 Strong gray freestone, with blue strains, - SO Fine white freestone, very hard, - - 4 Black till, . - - 6 Veryi>lack till, very hard, and burns when put into the fire, 6 Very fine coal, called the top coal, - - 6 10 Soft black marl, which fidlswhen exposed to the air, 10 Coal called the bottom coal, • . I 10 Coal left for a pavement, making in all 12 feet, «> 12 Very fine white till, . . - .060 Strong gray freestone, mixed with blue strains, - 24 Coal, . - - 5 Soft white till, . - - 30 Coal, - - - 2 Total depth, 90 7 Ferns. Asplenium Trichomanes Blechnum boreale Botrychliim lunaria Scolopendrium vulgare Mosses. Gymnostoroum tenue Polytrichum urnigerum Dicranum bryoides adiantoidcs glaucum flavescens pellucidum *MMMMMiWW«tM*MMM Hookeria luc-ens Hypnum trichomanoides MDe ; it is in the Tillage of Joppa, and attended by fifty at an aTerage. The teacher has a firee school-room, but otherwise depends entirely on the school fees* There is cause to r^^ret, that some do not see the necessity of keeping their children at school a sufficient length of time, and with constancy, during that period of life, when the difficulties of learning are most easily overcome. The profits aris- ing from the work of children in the fields and coal mines, and firoui service, are temptations which we fear are sometimes yielded to, when the plea of necessity can scarcely be urged. The parish teacher has L. 30 of salary, the legal accommodation, and statutory extent of garden ground. All the native population can read ; but there are a few from the sister island, who unhappily have not this invaluable art ; most of these, however, show a laudable zeal for the education of their children ; and Roman Catholic parents evince no reluctance to send their children to our schools. There are two Sabbath schools,-— one kept in the church, the other in Joppa. A village library was set on foot a few years ago, but the number of volumes is yet very limited. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The numbef of paupers, reckoning children as well as parents and adults, on the permanent roll, in the years 1835, 1836, and 1837, and ihe total anrount distributed to them, each year, are as follows : Tesr. Paupers, ioduding Children. Sum Disltilmted. 1835, . . 41, . . L.62 14 U 1886, . . 89, . 68 17 4 1897, . .86, . 82 12 11 The number not on permanent roll, but who have been aided during same years. Year. Recipients. Sum. 1835, . 13, . L.1 15 1886, . . 14, . 2 1887, . 19, . 8 6 Those here mentioned, only get coals at the beginning of the year to the amount specified, but cannot be viewed as paupers, — never having applied for parochial relief. An assessment is occasionally levied. It is paid solely by the heritors according to their valued rent, and raised by the session-clerk at a varying per centage. The first assessment was in 1817. The sum usually raised is 1*20. This was not always required annually. The average collections for the three years preceding the as- sessment in 1817 was, for 1813, 1814, and 1815, L.39, 13s. 9d.; for 1835, 183G, and 1837, L.5i>, lis. 9d. COYLTON. 665 The following is the amount received for support of the poor, payment of session-clerk and precentor, &c., in each of the last* mentioned years. For 1835. For I8S6. For 1837. Collections, . L.55 2 4^ L. 56 13 4 . L. 64 19 8| Mortdoth doci, &c 670. . 846 8 19 Money aflsessed or be- longing to heritors, 17 18 . 25 8 8i Donation, 10 L.78 9 4i L.84 17 10 L.99 17 5 The number of paupers has considerably increased within the last fifteen years. This has been partly owing to the want of em^ ployment for aged indigent females, since the erection of spinning- mills ; partly to a decreasing reluctance to apply for parish aid ; and to other causes. IfiTUf Sfc. — There are eight houses licensed to sell spirits and ale ; a number far greater than necessary. The facility of obtain- ing ardent spirits, and the immoderate use of them, are undoubt- edly among the chief causes of the immorality, disorder, poverty, crime, and misery, witnessed in many parts of our country. Pud. — A few peats are dug and used in the upper part of the parish, but this is done from choice. Coal, of which there is the greatest abundance in the parish and neighbourhood, is almost the only fuel. It is got at the pits at 6d. or 7d. a creel, or 6s. per. ton. Miscellaneous Observations. Since last Account was written, the inhabitants have, from the causes already noticed, doubled in number. A very considerable change has taken place in their dress and manner of living. The manufactures of woollen, cotton, silks, and most kinds of clothing, have very generally supplanted home made articles. The products of the East and West, the baker, grocer, and confectioner, have greatly superseded the oaten cake and homely fare of our ances- tors. A corresponding alteration may be witnessed in the style and comfort of houses and furniture. The soil and agriculture of the parish have undergone great improvement. A better system of cropping is now followed ; new kinds of com have been introduc- ed ; turnip and potato husbandry has advanced ; draining of all kinds has been very extensively practised ; new plantations have been made ; ferms-steads built on a larger scale, and after more approved plans ; roads have been greatly improved ; and there are facilities of communication with near and remote parts of the coun- try, that were formerly unknown. Still, the^re is great room for advancement December 1341. PARISH OF DUNDONALD * PRESBTTERT OF AYR, 8YN0D OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. ALEXANDER WILLISON, ) THE REV. JAMES FLEMING,— TVoon, V Ministers. THE REV. DAVID WILSON^Fu/fer^on,) L — Topography and Natural History. Name.-^— This parish derives its nape from a small green bill adjoining the village, on which stand the ruins of an ancient feu- dal castle. The etymology of the word is so obvious as to require no explanation. But who the Celtic chief was, that gave his 'name to the hill or fortlet, cannot now be ascertained* Extent and Boundaries. — Dundonald is situated at the north- west extremity of the district of Kyle, the middle division of the county of Ayr. The parish, though still comparatively extensive, was even more so, both before and after the Reformation, than it is at present At the time of the Reformation, in addition to the cbapelry of Crosby, it included also the parish of Riccarton. And when the latter, after the downfall of Popery, was constituted a se- parate parish, Dundonald comprehended the lands of Caprington till they were united with Riccarton about the middle of last century. According to the earliest ecclesiastical records, Dundonald with its two chapelries was granted by the second Walter the Stewart iu 1229, to the Gilbertine Convent of Dalmullin, near Ayr. And when this was given up in 1238) it passed to enrich the monastery of Paisley, of which it continued an appendage till the time of the Reformation. Crosby, which has still the remains of a church and burying-ground, does not appear, as is generally supposed, to have been erected into a separate parish, but has always been in- cluded in Dundonald, except during the short interval betwixt the years 1651 and 1688^ when it was annexed to the parish of Monk- ton. It is said by Chalmers, that Riccarton at the Reformation was joined to Craigie, and only became a separate parish iu 1648. Upon what authority he makes this statement, we do not know * Drawn up by the Rer. Alexander Willison. 6 DUNDONALD. 667 out he must be mistaken, as we find in the Session records as early as 1604, several distinct references to the kirk-session of Riccarton.* The parish, according to its present limits, is very nearly of the form of an equilateral triangle, the length of the side of which is about seven miles. On the south-west side, it is bounded by the shore of the Frith of Clyde, which, passing over the point at Troon (extending nearly a mile into the sea), runs almost in a straight line from the point at Irvine harbour to where the Rum* bling and Pow bums meet, and separate it from the parish of Monkton. On the north, it is bounded by the water of Irvine, separating it from the parishes of Irvine, Dreghorn, and Kilmaurs, and from the district of Cunninghame. On the south-east it has no natural boundary, but runs in a straight line from a point on the Irvine a little below Caprington, to the above-mentioned point on the coast westward, on which side it is bounded by the parishes of Riccarton, Symington, and Monkton. Appearance* — Within these limits, the surface is marked by a very pleasing variety of appearance. All along the sea coast and the banks of the Irvine for a considerable way inland, the soil is almost a dead level, or very gently undulated. But with a view, as it were, to make amends for this tiresome monotony, it rapidly swells up, towards one concentrating point, into eminences be- twixt three and four hundred feet above the level of the sea. These form the Clavin hills, so called probably from the Celtic <* Clai bheinn," signifying broad-sWords, which, when laid in a particular form, give a good idea of their appearance. From the tops of these eminences, there is a most delightful prospect, said to comprise parts of fourteen different counties; and it is que&i. tionable if, from an equal elevation, so fine a natural panorama, both for richness and extent, is any where to be met with in the lowlands of Scotland. At the foot of one of these hills, forming a rocky precipice, and well skirted with wood, lies the village of Dondonald. This, with the adjoining grey ruins of the castle crowning an eminence in front of the village, gives it a very picturesque appearance. There is only one thing wanting to complete the picture, and * It was supposed at one time, that the town of Fullarton belonged to the parish of Inrine, hailing been joined to it in 1690. But, on a question being raised regard- ing the support of the poor, it was decided by the Court of Session in 182S» that the proper forms of law had not been complicfl with, and so it still remains a part of this parish. 668 AYRSHIRE. that is water ; the village being shut in from the sea by the inter- vening hills, while there i& scarcely a stream deserving the name of a rivulet in the parish. This defect, however* tells more upon the eye than upon the comfort of the inhabitants; for, the soil be- ing generally retentive, excepting towards the shore, springs are everywhere abundant, and the water is in general good, though in some places strongly impregnated with carbonate of iron. Climate. — There is nothing very remarkable or peculiar in this respect, beyond what is characteristic of the district in which the parish is situate. We are not quite sure that it will altogether jus- tify the wit of the English gentleman, who, having procured a few Ayrshire cows, declared, ^^ that he was obliged to have water pour- ed over them daily to preserve their health," but it is certainly very moist As a compensation, however, it has the advantage of being proportionably mild, so that snow seldom lies for any length of time ; and, upon the whole, it may be considered as fa- vourable to health and longevity. Geology. — The parish, as a whole, belongs to the coal*forma- tion, and constitutes a part of the great coal measures of Ayrshire. Freestone, of course, is found in abundance. There are only two places, however, where it is wrought, at Craiksland and Collennan. The quarry at Craiksland yields a very fine and durable stone, which may be raised of almost any size. As there is little demand for it in the neighbourhood, it is chiefly exported, and in consider- able quantities, to Ireland, for purposes of ornamental architecture. A steam-engine has lately been erected at the quarry, for sawing it into slabs for pavement, which has succeeded according to expecta- tion. On the estate of Curreath, hone-stone is found in abundance, and is said to be of a very superior quality. But it has never been wrought to any extent, though liberal offers have been made to the proprietor to this effect. Immediately above the hone, there is the appearance of a small seam of black chalk, but whether it exists in any quantity has not been ascertained. Coal, for a great number of years, has been wrought to a considerable extent in two places in the "parish — Shewalton, and Old Rome, formerly called Rumford. At the latter work, the depth of the shaft is 37 fa- thoms, and cuts through four different seams, which lie in the fol- lowing order : At the bottom of the shaft is a seam of blind or charred coal, 3 feet 4 inches in thickness ; 13 fiithoms above, there is one of common coal, of the same thickness ; 8 fathoms above that, one of DUNDONALD. 669 6 feet ; and 2| fathoms higher still is one of 2 feet 8 inches. At the She Walton work, the depth of the shaft is 35 fathoms, com- prising two seams of common coal, the lower of which is 34 inches thick, and the other, 16 feet above, 43 inches, including 1 foot of hard black tilly which divides it into two unequal parts. The two works are in other respects very closely assimilated, the dip and rise in both averaging about one in sixteen. The roofs in many'places are bad, being composed of a hardish clay, which quickly dissolves on exposure to the atmosphere. In the blind-coal seam, fire-damp is of very frequent occurrence, and demands of the workmen the strictest attention to the use of the safety-lamp. The strata, in many places, are very much deranged by the in- tervention of greenstone dikes, and a stone called by the workmen alchemy, which cross each other in all directions. Of the former of these substances, the Clavin hills are composed, and, in the words of a reverend geologist, <^ are but a greenstone dike on a large scale,'" forced by old Titan bolt up through the surround- ing beds. This is the only part in the neighbourhood where it appears on the surface, except on the coast, at the point of Troon, and the Black rock a mile to the south, at which places it is of a much coarser quality, and very much resembles dark granite in appearance. At the former place, there is a small bed of fire-clay ; but, in point of utility, it is not considered of much importance. All along the higher ground, the soil is chiefly clayey. On the low flat land, again, it is principally composed of pure moss or sand, and appears in many places, for some miles inland, to have been, at some distant period, washed by the sea. Zoology. — In addition to the domestic animals, which are in no respect difierent from those in the neighbourhood, the parish abounds in all sorts of game, such as hares, partridges, snipe, blackcock and pheasants. Woodcock also, in considerable num- bers, frequently make their appearance in their regular seasons. As for rabbits, owing chiefly to a large warren along the shore, belonging to the Duke of Portland, which is but imperfectly en- closed, they were till within a year or two, as locusts in the district, and devoured every green thing. So numerous were they from the sandy nature of the soil, and the strict protection which they enjoyed, that the proprietors were obliged, for their own interest, to proceed against them with a war of extermination. They are still very nu- merous, notwithstanding, in some parts of the parish, and to many a subject of grievous complaint. A few years ago, there was a well- n 670 AYRftlilRE. stocked deer-park on the estate of Auchans ; but the deer haTe all been removed to Eglioton. At the mouth of the water of Ir« vine, and along the sea coast at Troon, salmon are regularly caught, but not in such numbers as to render the fisheries of very great importance. Indeed there are no fisheries of any kind worthy of attention. Oyster scalps, however, might, in some places, be cultivated with advantage, and we wonder why this has not been attended to. Amongst animals of a ruder sort we may mention the following: The otter {Luira vulgaris) is occasionally met with, and the seal [Phoca vitulina) has a favourite haunt on a rock in the sea not far from Troon. Of water-fowl, the heron {Ardea cinerea)^ the so- lan goose or gannet (Sula Bassana)^ the sheldrake {Tadcma vul- ffaris), the great northern diver (Cofymbm glacialis)^ the her- ring gull (Lams argentatus)^ occasionaJly frequent the coast. The common wild-duck is found in great numbers ; and less frequent- ly the teal. So far as we are aware, there is only one kind of poi- sonous reptile, the common adder, (Vipera Vfulgariti) which is found occasionally in Shewalton moss. The following zoological and botanical list was kindly furnished by the Rev. David Landsborough, minister of Stevenston, so well known for his high attainmaints in this department of science : Patella pellucida Lacuna vincta Tellina fid>ula — — — canilea Trocbus magus Cytherea exoleta Chiton marginatus ■ «- ziziphious Venus rugosa . cinereus Nassa reticulata Venerupis decuasata Rissoa intemipta Pecten opercularis Hiatella arctica Natica glaucxna .p.^.. 'varius Lutraiia elliptica — — Alderi Cardium echinatum Mya tnincata pallidula ■ exiguum Lucina raduUu Lucina flexuosa A specimen of the Patella clypeus of Brown, or LaUia iegtudi" nalis of Gray, was found at the Black Rock fully an inch in length, and two-thirds of an inch in breadth. Of land-shells we shall mention only Hdix virgata and Bidimus acuhuj which are found in great abundance on the sunny embankment at Troon barbot^r. Zoophytes, — Cellularia reptans Criaia sracilis ^ LcfiraHa coeeioea Cellepora pumieosa Laomedca geniculata Sertularia pumOa Crisia elmrnea ^_-.. gelatinoaa Plumularia eristata. Sertularia polyzonias Valkeria cuscuta » This last, the podded coralline^ seems far from rare at Troon. That part of the coast appears favourable to the growth of zoo- phytes, for the specimens we found were all large. So far as we DUNDONALD. 671 are aware, tbe Crista gracilis is new to the list of British zoo* phytes. Botany* — Salicornia herbaoea Solonum Dulcamara Sambucus ebulus Drosera Anglica CEnanthe pimpinellotdes Allium urrinum Jtincus maritimus Aljsma ranuDculoides Arenaria marina Agrimonia eupatoria Brassica Monenais Malva sylvestrit Hyppocrepis comosa Parietaria officinalis Listera ovata Zaunicbellia palustris Carex vulpina Out of a considerable list of Algae, we shall select only the fol- lowing : Lyaimacbia elodea Amanita muscaria Boletus luteus Polytricbum umigenim Anictangium ciliatum Dicranum bryoides — — — taxiiblium — — -— adiantoides ^— — heteromallum Jungermannia Blasia Phwicum muticum Saxilraga granulata Mentha pulegium — — - gentilis Orchis militaris Ballota nigra Narthecium ossifragum Sedum Anglicum Trichostomum heterostich- Scutellaria galericulata urn Epipactis latifolia ■ acicalure A triplex ladniata ~— — canescens - rosea ■ — lanuginosum Polygonum roberti Hypnum splendeus Convolvulus soldanella Lcycopodium clavatum Rumex palustris Scyphopborus gracilis Ruppia maritima Focus ceranoides Himanthalia lores Chordaria flagelliformis Delesseria sanguinea sinuoaa Plocamium coccineum Sphacelaria plumosa Odontbalia dentata Polysiphonia parasitica Gigartina plicata Calitbamnion roseum Cladostephtts verticiUatus Bryopeis plumosa.* Forest Trees.-^The parish contains no extensive plantations, but it is generally well wooded, except towards the shore between Troon and Irvine, where the appearance is very bleak. The trees are of the usual forest kind, and thrive well where the soil is good, though none of them have attained to a remarkable size. At Au- chans there is a considerable extent of natural wood, and near the old mansion-house some fine specimens are visible. 11. — Civil History. This parish, from having been once the domain and residence of kings, acquires a deep historical interest. But we are sorry to say that the authentic historical records regarding -it are both scanty and obscure. The first historical notice we have of the place, is in the time of the third Walter the Stewart, who was styled ** of Dundonald," and was made Justiciary of Scotland by Alexander II., at St Andrews, in 1280. It is said, however, by Chalmers, that the manor and parish belonged to Walter, the son of Allan, the first Stewart, who held the whole of the northern half of Kyle, in the beginning of the reign of William the Lion ; and that it might have been granted to him by David L, or his ^ This last beautiful sea-weed, got near the Black rook, we have seen nowhere else in Ayrshire. 672 AYRSHIRE. successor, Malcolm IV. Nothing more is knowD or even conjec- tured regarding it, until the reign of Robert IL, who appears, by several charters dated at Dundonald, to have made it the place of at least occasional residence, from 1371 till the time of his death in 1390. This later event is particularly mentioned by the Prior of St Serfs Inch, Lochleven. The seoownd Robert of Scotland Kyng As God punraid maid endyng At Downdownald in his oountre. Of a schort sickness, thare deyd he.* — Wynton, B. ii. c 10. That his gentle, but ill starred son and successor, Robert IIL, died in the same place, is also asserted by the same author ; and though his authority on this point is disputed by Pinkerton and Fourdoun, there are others of no mean authority, such as Ruddi- man and Macpherson, who stand up in defence of the testi- mony of the poet. But, be this as it may, there cannot be a doubt of his continuing to reside here some time after his father's death: and it is probable, that it was honoured by occasional visits from his royal successors, till the time of James IV. From the prede- cessor of this monarch, James IIL, Allan, first Lord Cathcart, obtained the custody of the castle, with the dominical lands, in 1482, and with this family they may be supposed to have con- tinued for some time. The next account we have of it is in 1527, the date of a charter from James V., confirmatory of one probably given in his minority, and granting it in right of posses- sion to a person of the name of Wallace, a cadet^ in all likelihood, of the family of Craigie, (see Robertson's Ayrshire Families.) In this descent it continued till 1638, when the proprietor, who appears to have been deeply involved in the troubles of the time, by taking an active lead in the covenanting interest, made it over by sale to Sir William Cochrane of Cowdon, the ancestor of the present Earl of Dundonaldf In 1726, it passed again into the possession of the Eglinton family, with whom it still continues; and all that now remains to the Dundonald fomily, is merely the * The reader may remember an anecdote connected with this ruin, which, per- haps, has rendered it more famous than all its history : that when Dr Samuel Johnson on visiting the spot, was informed by Boswellofthefact above-mentioiied, he made the old arch rin^ with a peal of derisive laughter. This was probably only meant to humble the national pride of bis Scottish friend. But if otherwise, it was unworthy of the mind of the gifted moralist. f We take this to be the date of transfer, instead of that given in the former Statis- tical Account, which is two years later ; because that date is given without authority, and we find Sir William's name entered in 1638, as a member of the kirk-session, which could scarcely have happened before the purchase of this estate, as it was his only bond of connection with the parish. BUNDONALD. 673 mouldering walls of the castle, with the mount on which it stands, extending to about six or eight acres of land. Heritors. — It is rather a singular fact, that, of all the heritors who signed the Solemn League and Covenant in 1688, scarce- ly one descendant has now an acre of land in the parish. The M'Kerrells of Hillhouse are the only family who have retained pos- session of their patrimonial estate in any thing like an entire shape. The date of the original grant or purchase is unknown, but it is supposed to have descended in regular succession for 500 years. The Fullartons, the Wallaces, the Cunninghams, and the Cocfa« ranes, once all dominant, have long since given place to Others, but, for the consolation of heraldry, to families not less old and honourable than themselves ; as will be seen from the following list, which we give in the order of their valued rental : Lady Mary Montgomery, lady of Sir Charles Lamb, Bart. (Auchans) ; His Grace the Duke of Portland, (FuUartoh) ; Sir John C. Fairlie, Bart. (Fairlie) ; the Right Honourable David Boyle, Lord Pre- sident of the Court of Session, (Shewalton ;) Henry M^Kerrell, Esq. of (Hillhouse); Colonel Crawfurd, (Newfield) ; Miss Mor- rtce of Craig, (Holms) ; J. Deans Campbell, Esq. of (Curreath) ; Colonel McGregor of (Caprington) ; Colonel FuUarton of Bar- tonholm, (town of Fullarton) ; James Campbell, Esq. of Craigie, (Broadhirst) ; Mr Dickie, (Loans) ; Colonel Kelso of Dankeitb, Burgh of Irvine, (Friar^s Croft.) All the principal heritors have residences either in or adjoining the parish. Parochial Riffisters. — These, as in most other parishes in Scot- land, from the accidents of time, but more especially from the slo- venly way in which they have been originally kept, are in a very imperfect state. The oldest volume, containing the records of se^ sion, and bearing date 1602, is tolerably entire; nay, strange to say, much more so than any of the succeeding ones. It extends over a period of forty years, comprising a silent interval of six- teen years, and contains a great deal of parochial information that is curious and interesting. Among other entries of this kind, are minutes of the trial of Patrick Lowrie, Warlock, and Cathrine M'Teir, demit of witchcraft These seem to have been cases of peculiar interest, and considerable judicial difficulty, from the mi- nute detail of evidence adduced, and the length of time they ap- pear to have been under trial. The attention, of the session was more or less occupied by them for nearly five years, — a term which would now-a-days do no small honour to a chancery law-suit. Not- AYR. u u 674 AYRSHIRE. ,'withstaDding all this trouble however, matters seem to have' been left just where they began ; no decision being recorded, probably from the parties leaving the parish, as we see^ from one part of the evidence, they threatened to do. For the curious in such matters, we shall subjoin one or two extracts, on different subjects, from 4his interesting volume.* The volume from which these extracts are taken contains a re* cord of a different, and to Scotchmen at large, of a more interest- ,ing kind, namely, the Solemn League and Covenant, to which are .attached no fewer than 222 signatures. 6nt of these, which is a lamentable proof of the low state of education at the time, 179 are subscribed by proxy, because, as is stated, ^^ they could not wryt themselfs.'' It appears, however, that the eyes of the peo- ple were beginning to open to this defect, as we find them making arrangements two years afterwards, in 1640, for forming what may be considered the first parish school. The articles agreed on jat a public meeting held for the purpose, and to be subscribed by ^the teacher on admission to ofiice, are certainly curious enough. The luckless man of letters was to be any thing but a free agent; -for there was scarcely a part of his duty, 6ven the most trifiing, .which was not laid down to him by rule, and according to which ^he was not commanded to walk on pain of deposition. The hours of .teaching and recreation, the tasks for the children, the deport- ment to be borne towards them, the kinds of punishment, even to the particular sort of birch to be used, with the exact parts of * «< Session baldin 8th November 1629. The qubilk day the minister publicklie 'Out of the pnlpittby the aiithoritie of the presbytery, did inhibit and discbarge all lorte of charming, and resorting to charmers, consulting with wixards, sorcerers, and tithers of that sorte, certifeing all and sundrie who did so in time cuming, they -should be ehalengit criminallie yrfore and followit, and persewit with death, as lor , the crimes of witchcraft* *^ Session baldin 17th March 1605. John Fergushill, younger in Haly, deferit .ane slanderous taill spokin to him by Agncss Lyonn, spovs to Petir Renkin in Patk. heid ; she aledgand upon George LachUnd her author, as tlie said George Lachlaod 'alcdgit Symon Muir his author, ^* That the late minister of Kilwinning now depart- it yis life waaeardit (buried,) with his mouth douo, and that he oonfessit >al y« mi- nister of Ayr and Irvine, and he, had ye wyt of all ye ill wedder ye year. , «« Session baldin 23d March 1602. The qubilk day. Svmon Wallace in Creux . requyrit to aohaw ye manner of yat uproir and tumult maid in ye Kirkyard imrae- diatelic eftir ye sermon on Sonday ye 8th of Apryle last was, be him and his adher- . entisv^nd John Dickie in Curraaith and his adhcrentis. Ye said Symon declarit in manner following ; That he persaiving ye said John Dickie to oome by bis aocuf- * tomcd manner with convocation of his friendis yat day to ye kirk, and yat ye said John . Dickie had offendit him, be tvik ye sam as done in contempt of him, qubaropoo qubeh he saw ye said John Dickie he bad him ga out of ye kirkvard, and yat yrupoa ye said John Dickie and his adherentes drew swordcs to ye said Symon, qubairupon yai cutit his ganging suf whilk onlie be had in his ban and na ither armor. Ye session continuit yc^ matters to fbryer tryel." DUNDONALD. 6t5 he body to which it was to be applied^ are all made the sub- jeeta-of minute descriptioa and legal enactment. What would a .teacher now*ardajs think, if he were gravely called upon to sub- scribe such an article as the following? ^* That be shall attend at all hours when the children are^ in school, and not suffer; him- self to be withdrawn by drinking, playing* or any other avoca- tion." And more especially, when he takes a gknce at No. 4, and sees that these hours in the winter months are from sunrise to sunset, and in summer from seven o'clock morning till six even- ing, without even the benefit of a Saturday's recreation. And that on the very Sabbath itself, he was to be always present in church, with his little flock around him, to see, as the record bears, that they conducted themselves with propriety, and gave due at- tention to the ordinances of religion, of which examination on the following day was strictly to be made. The minutes of session, after the conclusion of this volume, till vrithin the last few years, have been very carelessly and imperfectly Jcept The next entry after 1643 is in ] 702, the commencement of another volume. And for more than half a century after this date, there are scarcely ten consecutive years of their transactions recorded. The register of baptisms, extending to four volumes, begins in 1673; that of deaths, in one volume, in 1763; and that of marriages, also in one volume, in 1823. The first of these is, in comparison, tolerably correct. But the other two are very in- t^orrect, and hopelessly so, until more stringent measures are taken to compel the people generally tp attend to such matters. Antiquities. — In this department of inquiry, the Castle of Dun- donald claims the first place. The date of the edifice is unknown ; but the probability is, from the style of the building and other cir. cumstances, that it is indebted for its origin to the craftsmen of the twelfth or thirteenth century* As a ruin it is still comparatively entire, and would have been much more so, if it had had only the Groth Time to struggle against; but the hand of man has also been sorely against it for many generations. According to a tradition, which the appearance of the edifice seems to confirm, an entire storey was removed to build the house of Auchans, which is itself nearly a ruin : and from time to time almost every available piece of freestone has been carried off. Though these systematic depredations are now discontinued, the hand of mischief is still occasionally at work. So that if it be true, as we have heard op f;ood authority, that the family of Dundonald hold the adjoining 676 AYRSHIRE. piece of land in grant from the heirs of Eglinton, on condition of keeping the ruin from further decay, we must say that the terms of the tenure are not very strictly complied with. The btrilding, two entire storeys of which still hang together, roofed in by a rude arch of ruble work, is in the form of an oblong square, and entirely without ornament. It is chiefly built of greenstone* from the ad- joining rock, with comers and port-holes, &c of freestone, not superior, as when the former Statistical Account was written^ to any found in the parish. But, as it is only of late years that the freestone quarries in the parish have been wrought, it must have been brought from a considerable distance* The length of the building without the walls is 113 feet. The breadth 40 feet At the south end, is the keep or prison, consist- ing of two or three miserable looking arched cells nearly filled up with rubbish, which apparently form a distinct compartment, but are in reality a part of the original building. On the western wall, the arms of the Stewarts, with those of some of the more powerful barons, are carved in alto relievo^ but are so obliterated by time as to be almost undistinguishable. Parts of the wall, both of the outer and inner courts, are still standing, and appearances of a mound or fortification running round the whole, and of a moat at the bottom of the hill, are distinctly to be traced. Previous to the Reformation, the castle contained a chapel dedicated to St Ninian, with an endowment annexed, the patronage being vested in the prince ; but tio remains of it are now to be discovered. We shall leave these dry bones of once proud and living architecture, with the quotation of a popular rhyme regarding them, which lays claim to a high antiquity. The verse is certainly descriptive enough of the castle as it stands; but if it is as ancient as is supposed, it must have reference to a still older fortlet, which is generally be- lieved to have occupied the same site. " There is a castle in the wast, Thcv ca' it Donald*^ din ; There s no a nail in it ava. Nor yet a timmer pin !" In 1240, the family of Fullarton erected and endowed a convent of Carmelites on the site now occupied by the town of Fullarton* The convent, which was dedicated to the Vit^n Mary, continued to flourish till the time of the Reformation. (See Ai ton's Sur* vey.) The last prior, Robert Burn, foreseeing the approaching storm, alienated the lands, which went under the name of Friar's Croft, to Fullarton of Dreghom* No traces of the edifice or of OUNDOIfALD. 677 the ancieDt mansion-house of its founders, which stood close by> are now to be found. And the only circumstance which gives a decided locality to the building, which at one time was disputed, was, that when the grounds some years ago were feued out for building, the foundation of the convent walls were discovered on digging, about fifty yards west from the old place of FuUarton. For a more particular detail, see Robertson's Ayrshire Families. Tradition says that a chapel once existed at a place called Cha* pelhill, close by the mansion-house of Hillhouse. The ground, which is now covered with wood, has still some traces of such an erection. In the garden wall, which was built nearly a century ago, the font-stone is still pointed out Such a tradition, even without any visible evidence, may almost be viewed as a certain* ty, from the history of the age to which it refers ; when every ba- ron of any wealth or influence was a kirk*builder on his own ac- count, and prided himself in having his private chapel. And the M^Kerrells were influential enough at that time to lay claim to such a piece of religious state. On the line of railroad passing through the farm of Barassie, a part of the same property, an earthen urn was found in 1839. It was filled with, the usual complement of calcined bones, and from the coarseness of the material, and rudeness of the workmanship^ it seems rather to have been of British than Roman manufacture. It was unfortunately broken in the course of extraction, and the fragments have found their way into the private museum of Colo- nel Blair of Blair. At Kemplaw, on the estate of L#ady Montgomerie, are the ruins of a vitrified fort. It stands on a projecting eminence formed by two ravines ; but is in such a complete state of dilapidation, that the form of the edifice is entirely effaced. A few weeks ago, a piece of iron was discovered imbedded in a block of vitrified stone. It is about four inches in length, bent at one end, and exactly in the form of an ear-ring-drop. The position in which it was found would indicate accident rather than design ; but to what purpose, either of ornament or utility, it could have originally been applied, we cannot even conjecture. We believe it is intended to send it to the Mechanic's Museum at Ayr. Close by the mansion-house of Newfield, are what are said to be the remains of a Roman bath or reservoir. As the place is flooded with water, except during a very dry season, we have not been able to inspect it personally, and therefore cannot indulge the antiquarian with a description of its form. 679 AYRSHIUBi , The only other relics of antiquity worthy of notice are two oM encampments on the heights above the farm of HarpercrofU ^^ The largest of these," in the words of the former Statistical Account, <^ contains within a circular embankment of loose stones and earthy ten acres of groimd, and there is an inner circle of the same kind^ and from the same centre, which incloses one of these acres. 'The other encampment is about 200 yards distant. No artificial work has been raised on its north*east quarter, the steepness of the de- clivity being a sufficient defence. But on the south and west, the circular embankment is strong, and within is a platform not exceeding an acre in extent." The construction of these works is popularly ascribed to the Romans, though the absence of the ditch or fosse may be considered by antiquarians as conclusive against this opinion, and it is believed that all un- doubted remains of Roman encampments are of a rectangular form, as might be expected from the minute description given by Poly bins. Lib. i. On suggesting, however, to a gentleman con- nected with the parish, of long military experience and considera- ble antiquarian research, the possibility that the prevailing opinion might be correct, he said, ^^ That the same thought bad often oc- curred to himself — that he considered the Romans too wise a peo- ple to adhere with mathematical strictness to any one form of en* campment, and that this would naturally vary according to the na- ture of the ground on which it was raised." This is the opinion of an intelligent soldier, who knows what fighting means ; and we think it has at least common sense to support it But whether they are Roman or Scandinavian, we pretend not to decide. Tlie only way to settle the question satisfactorily, would be to send the ploughshare through them in search of old coins, or fragments of armour ; a mode of investigation perhaps not quite to the taste of ihe genuine antiquarian ; but one which time may nevertheless ere long bring to pass. Buildittfs.''^0{ these, there are none of a public kind, excepi the churches, deserving of any notice. There are, however, se- veral mansion-houses of plain, but handsome appearance. Pullar- ton, Fairlie, Shewalton, Newfield, Hillhouse, and Curreath, are all comparatively modern buildings, suited to the extent of 'their respective estates, and kept at present in very good repair. The material of which they are built is chiefly whinstone — thb being most abundant ; but freestone, of late years^ has been principally used, even in edifices of much humbler pretensions, where out- DUNDONALD. 679 ward appearance was a matter of consideration. The bouse at Auchans, which bears date of 1644, is of a very irregular and gro- tesque appearance* As a mansion-house^ it is now in a state of hopeless disrepair, and is occupied only in compartments by cot« tars : this, in point of taste, is much to be regretted, as a finer situation for a handsome building and residence is scarcely any where to be found. From the orchard adjoining this mansion, went forth the fruit which has long been known over Scotland as the Auchans' Pear. The tree originally came from France, and was blown down, in a good old age, by a storm about sixty years ago. III. — Population. Of the increase which, in this respect, has taken place over the country generally, this parish has had its full share, as will be seen^ from the following returns : — Id 1 755, the populii ition was 983 1791, 1317 180], 1240 181J, 1610 1821, 2482 1881, 5579 Aod, from the Government returns of the preseDt year, it is 6691, and is divided as follows :— Town of FuUarton, . .2813 Do. of Troon, . . 1409 Village of Oundonald, . ^45 {Do) of Old Rome, . . 256 Do. of She Walton, . .219 Do. of Loans, • 205 Country, iocluding hamlets, . 1444 This increase is to be ascribed to general causes ; but particu-* larly of late years to the erection of the harbour at Troon, and the consequent increase of its trade ; and also to its becoming a fa-* Tourite place of resort for sea-bathing quarters. The condition of the people generally, but more especially in the landward districts, is comparatively everything that could be desired. In the town of FuUarton, where hand-loom weaving is the principal occupation, and at the two collieries, from the prover- bial thoughtlessness of this class of labourers, much destitution^ both temporal and spiritual, undoubtedly exists. . Still even the worst in these respects are not more so than their neighbours, and not so bad as we have witnessed in many other districts. As a wholes the people are orderly, intelligent, comfortable as to food and raiment, and contented with their condition, except when some wiser heads would persuade them to the contrary ; << but even that, they dinna mind it lang." IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — We suspect our statistics in this as in several 680 ATRgHIRE. previous points, will be more than a twice-told tale ; for Ayrshire' is ** cows and dairy produce" all over ; and the parish, in tfab respect, may be considered as a thrifty cadet of the dairy- house of Dunlop. The greater part of the land is under cultivatioD, and comprises almost every variety of soil which is- anywhere to be found. In these circunastances, the system of tillage is by no means uniform. On the loamy and light soils, which are adapted for green crop, the modern rotation is generally followed ; but on the stiff clayey land, where this is impracticable, the usual rotation is^ two white crops after six years pasture, with a top-dressing when the soil is broken up. Wheat has been grown for some time in considerable quantities ; but, from the badness of the seasons, of late years, it has been greatly given up, and it is questionableif, from the incurable dampness of the climate, it will ever become a pro- fitable crop. Stall-feeding, iu one or two instances, has lately been introduced; but it is not likely to be generally adopted, and one proprietor, at least, has set the example of flaking sheep upon turnips, elsewhere found so beneficial, and for which much of the agricultural land in this parish is particularly adapted; Produce. — To give this with any approximation to exactne^ is- nearly impossible ; for it is seldom known even to the farmers themselves. It can only be inferred from the rent paid, and what* ever may be the system of agriculture followed, they will ge- nerally be found in nearly the same proportion. The valued rent is L. 6411, 10s. 9d. Scots. The real rent, as given in the fi>rmer Statistical Account, L«6i00 Sterling, and at present, it is fully double this sum. The highest rent of land is L. 4 per acre; but this is far above the average rata The produce of a cow may be estimated at L.8» 10s. and from the dairy, it is considered that the entire rent should be raised to give the farmer a fair return for his capital and labour. Farms arkd Farm^ Buildings* — All the land under regular culti- vation is well subdivided with hedge-rows, and in some places with drystone dikes. The farm-steadings in general are comfortable and commodious, many of them having been either rebuilt or re- paired of late years. The only defect seems to be in neatness of arrangement, which is little attended to even in modem erections* But it is not easy to change old tastes ; as is well illustrated by the shrewd reply of a farmer of the old school, who lived before the invention of bone dust On being requested by his factor to have his dung-hill removed a little farther from his door-st^p, he an- DUNDONALD. 6Sl »wered, *^ Na^ca, Sir, when a farmer thinks shame o' his midden, and a beggar o' his meaUpocks, its time they were quitting the trade." The highest rent paid by one individual is moOO a-year; but with this exception, and one or two more, of from L.400 to L.500, the farms are generally small, averaging from L. 100 to L. 200 a- year. The tenants, however, may all be considered as thriving in their way, and we have no doubt of their continuing to do so if steadiness and industry contribute to success. The common length of leases is nineteen years, on a stated money rental. In one or two cases only, it is paid by the Bars. Improvements on Land. — These may be divided into two kinds -^such as have been made U(M)n land formerly under cultivation, and such as have tended to the reclaiming of that lying waste. In reference to the former, tile-draining has been the main cause of melioration. This was introduced into the parish, and, indeed, into Scotland generally, by the Duke of Portland, in 1826. Since this date, 272 acres upon His Grace's estate alone have been thoroughly drained, and principally at his own expense. The system adopted here, and, we believe, over all his extensive estates, is, td drain the land at the application of the tenant, with the ex** ception of carting the tiles, on the condition of an annual payment in proportion to the distances betwixt the drains. At 18 feet' apart, the rent is 5s. and at 15 feet, 7s. per acre. These terms we consider very equitable for both parties ; and their advantages for the tenant especially, may be estimated by the fact, as stated to me bv one of themselves, that he had drained land at his own expense, on a lease of three years, and considered that he reaped a safe remuneration. Though His Grace's system is not gene- rally followed, yet almost all the proprietors give more or less en- couragement, which is visible in the extensive operations at present going on ; and, if they continue to proceed as they are doing, the time is not distant when the whole parish will be as dry as a garden. There is one singular fact welUascert-ained, in regard to tile*draining, that it is unfavourable to the growth of^beans. The cause is unknown, but it is at present under close investigation. In regard to the reclaiming of waste lands, of which more than 2500 acres are still untouched, much has also been done. In the ^andy districts along the shore, the hilly nature of the surface is the main obstacle. The levelling process is carried on by a ma- chine in the form of a scoop, drawn by horses over the hillocks, and forcing the sand before it into the hollows, which is found to 682 AYaSHlRE. be both the cheapest and most expeditious mode of operatioD. Oa the ground thus prepared, better crops are raised than might be expected, and such as to give encouragement to proceed with the improvements. In operating upon the Shewalton moss, con- sisting of about 1200 acres, though promising perhaps a better re« tarn in the end, much greater difficulties require to be overcome ;-~ the reason, we suppose, why it has so long been neglected. The Lord President, however, the principal proprietor, is setting to it in right earnest. But as the moss is still in a growing state, al- most a dead level, supposed in some places to be nearly 30 feet deep, and in all probability requiring to be drained to the foun* dation, a considerable time must elapse before it is entirely re- claimed. The large trunks and limbs of black oak which are found in a solid state very little below the surface^ present also conside- rable impediments to the plough, even on the outskirts of the moss* V, — Parochial Economy. Means of Commu7iicati(m.-^TheTe is no market^town in the pa- rish ; but this is scarcely felt as an inconvenience, the distances to Kilmarnock and Irvine being only five miles respectively, and that to Ayr not more than eight, and the roads in every direction good. Indeed, there are few parishes of equal extent so well accommo- dated in this respect. The turnpike road from Irvine to Ayr runs through the parish along the coast, passing midway betwixt Trooo and Dundonald ; that to Dalmellington starting at the same point, runs through the village of Dundonald ; and these, again, are in- tersected nearly at right angles by ihS Kilmarnock and Troon road. In addition to these, there are parish roads in every direc- tion, kept in tolerably good repair, and affording every requisite means of communication. The only thing that the mounted tra- veller has reason to complain of is the abundance of tolls ; but, as the toll seems to be indigenous to the county, let us pay and pass on ; for in this case we fear there is very little hope of writing them down. The accommodation of a bridge over the river Irvine, at the ford near Dreghorn, is much needed, and there is a prospect of this being accomplished at an early period by the contributions of the neighbouring proprietors. Post-Office. — The post-office at Troon is the only one in the parish ; but, though it is of little service to the parish generallyt the defect in the case of FuUarton is supplied by its proximity to the town of Irvine, and the village of Dundonald is accommodated by the Troon runner passing through it daily to Kilmarnock. A» DUNDONALD. 683 for the dwellers in the other dLstrtctSy they are left to find and for- ward their letters as they most conveniently can. Bailroads. — Of these there are two in the parish. The older, which is more properly a tram-road, being formed of flat rails with flanges, was constructed by the Duke of Portland in 1810, for conveying coal from Kilmarnock to Troon. The principle is bad, and it is standing in need of constant repair ; yet, from the quan- tity of coal conveyed, it still continues, we believe, a very profita- ble speculation. The waggons are drawn by horses, and carriages for passengers pass two or three times a-day ; but more frequently during the summer months. The other, the Glasgow and Ayr line, passes through the parish along the sea coast for nearly eight miles. The part from Ayr to Irvine was opened in the summer of 1839. The whole line was opened in 1840. Since this date, the whole system of travelling has been completely revolu- tionized, as if by magic ; and, when one hears of the paucity of travellers a few years ago, which was insufficient to support a rus-* tic one-horse conveyance betwixt Irvine and Ayr thrice a-week, and compares it with the numbers who are flocking to and fro at all hours of the day, he is almost led to wonder what moving spi- rit can have come over the people, and what they can have found to do. A very neat and commodious station-house has been erect- ed a mile from Troon, the nearest point of the line ; but a branch is now in progress to connect it with the harbour. Another sta« tion-house has been built at FuUarton, on a more extensive scale, principally for the accommodation of the Irvine passengers. Harbours^ — Of these there are also two properly within the pa> rish, those of Irvine and Troon. As the former in all probability will be fully described in the Account of the parish to which it be- longs, our remarks upon it shall be few. The date of its original charter is very old ; but it has not proportionately increased in im- portance. The harbour being situate at the mouth of the Irvine is secure from the winds; but the depth of water is only from 10 to 1 1 feet. The number of vessels belonging to the port is up- wards of 30, from 50 to 100 tons register each. The principal trade is in coal, as will be seen from the following returns of im- ports and exports fpr the year ending 10th October 1840. Im- ports, barley, 225 quarters ; milled do., 100 cwts. ; beans, 1231 quarters; oats, 12,317 quarters; oatmeal, 11,620 cwts.; pease, 1174f quarters; wheat, 4036| quarters; flour, 1117 cwts. Ex- port of coal, 43,693 tons. - 684 AYRSHIRE. The harbour of Troon, which is technically considered only a creek of the port of Irvine, is a work of much later erection. The. original charter was obtained Jrom Queen Anne in 1707 by Wil- liam FuUarton of that ilk ; but it remained for a whole century entirely a dead letter. According to the former Account, it is re» ported, that, about thisdate, *^an offer was made to the proprietor by the merchants of Glasgow for feuing the adjoining land, and pro* ceeding with the work ; but that their offer was rejected for a reason which, however ridiculous it may now appear, would be oonstdei^ ed very cogent in those days — lest a rise should take place on the price of butter and eggs." Thus it remained till 1808, whea the Duke of Portland, who had previously purchased the estate of Fullarton, entered on the undertaking, which has cost from first to last about L. 100,000. The harbour, for depth of water and rea- diness of entrance, is one of the best in the neighbourhood, being capable of admitting vessels at low water, drawing from 15 to 16 feet. It is rather defective, however, in point of security, especi- ally when the wind blows from the north*west, as was proved dur- ing the disastrous gale of January 1888, when twenty-two vessels were driven from their moorings, all of them being more or less damaged, and a few totally wrecked. This is a serious evil ; but it is capable of being remedied at an expense not very formidable for such an undertaking, and it would be of the greatest advantage to the harbour to have it completed. A wet dock is at present in course of excavation from the solid rock. There are two dry docks ; the larger, about 300 feet in length, is capable of admits ting vessels of the first class. The trade is chiefly in coal and tim- ber. Of timber, about 3000 tons are imported annually ; of coal conveyed by the Kilmarnock railway for export, the quantity for the year 1839 was 130,500 tons ; and during the quarter ending 7th November 1840, it was 19,480 tons. The vessels belonging to the port are fifteen in number, amountmg to 3800 tons regis- ter, besides six vessels belonging to the port of Irvine, whose ton- nage is 1300. The harbour has a good lighthouse supported from its own funds ;. and on the Lady Isle, lying towards the bay of Ayr, but belonging to this parish, the merchants of Glasgow, more than half-a-century ago, erected two pillars for the direction of vessels. Ecckiiastical State* — Till within a few years, the people were very ill provided with church ac^^ommodation. The parish church, which was built in 1803, and is in very good repair, contains only 630 sittings; and its distance from Fullarton and Troon — the DUNDONALD. G85 nearer of which is four miles, — would, in any case, have rendered any thing like a regular attendance upon ordinances altogether impracticable. This defect was remedied in the case of Troon in 1887, and in that oV FuUarton in 1838^ by the erection of two handsome places of worship on the Church Extension principle, each containing 900 sittings. Both of these churches have or- dained clergymen, with quoad spiritualia districts assigned. The stipend of Troon at present is I^ 150, and that of the other, guaranteed by bond, is L.88» 68. 8d., which, in both cases, is raised from the seat-rents and collections^ except L.20 of the former, which is paid by the Duke of Portland. The parish of Dundonald ecclesiastically contains now a population of only 1907, with 500 communicants; Troon contains 2186, with 500 communicants; and FuUarton 3071, of whom 400 are communi- cants. The seats in the parish church are all rent-free, being mostly allocated to the tenantry. In Troon, ] 20 are free, and the rest are rented from 3s« to 7s. each. In FuUarton, 100 are free, and tiie average rate of those rented is 2s. 6d. Neither of the clergymen of the new parishes has either manse or glebe. The manse of Dundonald, which was built in 1784, is, considering the wear of time, in tolerably good repair. The offices have lately been en-^ larged and improved, and are, consequently, in better order. The glebe is only four and a-half acres, including the site of build- ings and garden ; but the land is good, and very productive. Previous to 1792, the stipend was 100 bolls 14 pecks of meal, 32 bolls 1 1 pecks of bear, Ayrshire measure, and 20 merks Scots. That year, an augmentation of L.25, 3s. 2^. was granted by the Court, with L.5 additional for communion elements. In 18249 it was augmented to the present amount, consisting of 17 chalders, half meal, half barley, and L.10 for communion elements. The free teind still amounts to fully L.600. Besides this provision for clerical instruction, the parish has had the benefit of a resident missionary, connected with the establish- ment, for the last ten years. He resides in the village of Dun* donald, and labours among the families at the three coal-works of Shewalton, Old-Rome, and Gatehead, in the parish of Kilmaurs. The funds for his support are raised by local subscription ; but the burden falls chiefly on the Misses Muir, formerly of Shewal- ton, to whose Christian beneficence the parish has long been un- der the greatest obligations. There are in all about 1886 Dissenters belonging to different 6 86 ATRSHIRE/ denonuDations, but consisting chiefly of Burghers, Relief, Baptists^ and Roman Catholics. Of these, 1400 belong to Fuliarton, and attend worship in the town of Irvine, 250 to Troon, and 136 to Dundonald. In the year 1840, about 100 members belonging to the United Associate Synod procured a place of worship in Troon, which was used as a mission station before the building of the pre* sent church, and have now an ordained pastor, who is the only Dissenting clergyman in the parish. For the accommodation of the Roman Catholic population, who are almost all Irish labourers^ the priest, who resides at Ayr, and is under the superintendence of the bishop at Glasgow, pays regular monthly visits to Kiknai^ nock and Irvine, and sometimes more frequently. Sehools.^-Bes\des the parish school, which has the legal accom- modation of a good house and garden, and L.28, 18s. 9|d. of sa« lary for the teacher, jthere are seven others in the parish, the most of which have small temporary endowments, and are under the same clerical superintendence. One of these was lately organized at Fullarton, in connection with the church, and has a salary of Lb 15 from the General Assembly's Education Committee. A school-house to contain 300 children, is in the course of erection, at an expense of L.500. This sum was procured from the lega<^ of the late Rev. Dr Bell of Madras, by the kindness of the Lord Justice General (one of the trustees nominated by that benevolent individual for the distribution of his ample fortune for educational purposes), and who has always taken the deepest interest both in the spiritual and temporal welfere of the district. Another school-house is also in process of building at Troon, for the ac^ commodation of 230 children. The estimated expense is L.d35, one-half of which is paid by Government, and the other by sub*- scription. The average number of scholars at. the parish school is 60, and at all the other schools together, 640. The rate of wages for the elementary branches of education varies from 2s. to 4s. 6d. per quarter. In addition to these means of instruction, there are several Sabbath schools, which are very numerously at- tended ; and all that is now wanting, in this respect, is only the placing of those schools already in operation on a more independ- ent and permanent footing. — A parochial library was established- in the village of Dundonald in 1836, and contains about 150 vo- lumes. It is in two divisions, adult and juvenile, and the annual payments are 4s« and Ss. respectively. Poor and Poor^s Funds. — The number of poor at present on the DUNDONALD. 697 roll is 94, which is, perhaps, rather a large amount. But od look- ing into the old session-records, we are not sure if matters, in this respect, are worse than they were. In the year 1643, we find that sixty-three persons were licensed by the session to beg with. in the bounds of the parish, which, considering the supposable amount of population, is a much greater proportion than at pre- sent* The average rate of weekly allowance is Is. 4^d. which is nosed in the usual way, from parish dues, church collections, in- cluding the stipulated sum of L. 4 from FuUarton, and an optional one of from.L.7 to L.10 from Troon, and a voluntary assessment of the heritors. The collections at the parish church for the last year were L.32, and the assessment Is. per pound Scots of va- lued rent. Besides this, there are two mortifications of L.90, and L.45, the former under the management of the session, and the latter under that of the Fullarton Indigent Sick Society. The interest of each sum is distributed among five poor families not on the rolU The above may be considered a very scanty provision, but there are few parishes where more is done in the way of pri- vate charity. All the principal heritors are liberal in the distri- bution of coal and clothing, and other necessaries. In this, they are generously seconded by the farmers and inhabitants generally ; and there cannot be a doubt, but that the claims upon their cha- rity are becoming more and more urgent. What may be the rea- son, we know not, but, sorry we are to say, that the good old spirit of Scottish independence, which once spurned the kirk-box, as al- most worse than starvation, is fast dying away, and that few in- deed now think it any degradation to have their wants so supplied. This is surely a symptom of change not for the better, and as it is, from accounts, very generally manifested, we trust it will meet with due consideration from those whose especial business it is to provide and legislate for the poor. JFatrx.— No fairs are now held within the parish, unless an annual cattle-show, which takes place at Dundonald in the month of May, can be called such. William Fullarton of that Qk, in a charter dated 1707, and to which we have already referred, obtained the power of erecting the town of Fullarton into a burgh of barony, with two annual fairs, on the third Wednesday of July, and first Thursday of No* Tember, old style. We are not aware whether the charter in this latter article was ever acted on ; but it is now a dead letter, and 688 AYBSHIRE. the proximity of the place to the town of Irvine has obvioualjr been the cause. Inns. — The number of these would seem to a stranger rather like a slur on the morality of the inhabitants^ being not less thaa 50, But let it be considered that all of them, with the except- tion of seven, are located in the two seaport towns, and are prin- cipally frequented by persons who do not belong to the parish* This, however, to a philanthropist is a poor consolation, and in any case it is to be regretted that ^uch things should be. The grand Turk has levelled the haunts of the opium-eater; the heathens of China have obstinately waged war against its impor- tation ; and surely a government caJling itself Christian ought not to make ^ain, both of the temporal and spiritual degradation of its people. FueL — The parish possesses both peat and coal in abundance. The former is little used. The latter, which is raised chiefly for exportation, sells at Is. a load, which weighs about four cwt, and is of a very good quality. Miscellaneous Observations. We may mention generally, under this head, that the condition of all classes, even of the poorest, has very much improved since the^date of the former Account. An entire new town and harbour have risen up at Troon ; two railroads have been constructed ; common roads have been formed, and all much repaired ; what were little better than mud- walls have given place to substantial stone and lime, and in many places to elegant architecture. The comfortable, but unstable, thatch has been supplanted by slate ; the fertility of the soil, by a better system of culture, has been inconceivably improved. Money with all ranks is much more abundant ; and all these things tell upon the comfort, as we would hope they do upon the gratitude, of those who enjoy them. As to the moral condition of the people, we have not the same means of judging ; but, glancing at the records which are scattered over a period of two centuries and a*haif, we 6nd that every generation has had its virtues and its vices, and we would suppose that the people at present are neither much better nor worse than their predecessors. The parish, and we think happily, is still free froni factories of every kind; the attempt referred to in the former Ac- count having completely failed. And as a lover of those among whom one would choose to dwell, one would say, long may such attempts continue to fail I For while agriculture and the kindred 6 KILBIRNIG. 689 arts are favourable alike to the physical and moral health, there is obviously something in such employments destructive of both. And if experience has proved them to be injurious to men, they are a cruel bondage and degradation to the feebler sex. It is enough to make one's heart sick to look upon their wasted figures and colourless countenances, when compared with those who la- bour for their immediate bread in the pure light of day. But this evil, we fear, is, from the nature of things, without hope of remedy. The moral one, however, may be prevented ; and should the root of it at any time be transplanted into this district, we trust that a moral and spiritual education will also keep pace with it, that the people may at least sink no lower, or become worse than they are. December 1841. PARISH OF KILBIRNIE.* PRESBYTERY OF IRVINE, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. ROBERT URQUHART, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — KiLbirnie, the ancient as well as the modern name of this parish, is obviously compounded of the common Celtic prefix Kilj signifying a church, cell, or hermitage, and Birnie or Birinus^ the name of the saint to whom the church was dedicated. Though this saint conferred his name on the parish, his festival or anni- versarV) which fell on the 3d of December, has long since been forgotten, whilst that of St Brandane, tlie apostle of the Orkneys, is still commemorated on the 28th of May, under the modernized appellation of Brinnan's*day, the great annual fair of Kilbirnie. Boundaries and Extent.— The parish is bounded on the north and east by Lochwinnoch and Beith ; on the north-west by Largs; and on the south and west by Dairy. It is of an irregular oblong figure, in length from south-east to north-west between seven and eight miles, and of the medium breadth of about two miles and a- * Drawn up by Mr William Dobie. GrangeYAle, Beitb. AYR. X X 690 AYRSHIRE. half. The area is computed to be equal to seventeen square miles, or 8,576 Scotch acres.* Topographical Appearance. — The surface of the parish presents in general a pleasingly varied, if not a strikingly diversified, appear*- ance. It may be described as consisting of two naturally well- defined sections, viz. a lower and altogether an arable division, and a more elevated and extensive one, combining with a consi- derable portion of arable land a great extent of green hill-pastiire^ bog, and moorland. The lower section, lying in the position of nortb*east and south-west, along the boundaries of the parishes of Beith and Dairy, is partly flat, especially towards the south-west, but more generally its surface is varied with gently-marked swells and depressions. This division, which is nearly four miles in length, and about the medium breadth of a mile and a-half, does not, therefore, possess any striking features, unless it be the bright expanse of Kilbimie Loch, extending along two miles of its eastern confines, and the winding course of the water of Gamock, which flows through its upper part from north to south, but which, after passing within a quarter of a mile of the south- west extremity of the loch, forms the eastern boundary of th# lower part West and north-west of this fertile and highly-culti- vated division, the ground assumes a much greater variety of posi- tion and form ; in addition to which, it rises somewhat rapidly, un- til it swells into airy upland pastures considerably beyond the reach of cultivation. These verdant uplands are succeeded by dreary tracts of moss and heath, and irregular ranges of dusky hills, of an extent equal to fully one-third of the superficies of the parish, and taken altogether, compose a region, doomed alike by climate, inaccessibility, and soil, to hopeless sterility. The lowest land in the parish is about ninety- three feet above the level of the sea, and the highest, which is the Hill of Staik, situated on its north- west boundary, has an altitude above the same level of 1691 feet. From the summit of this hill, the most elevated in the district of Cuninghame, as well as from several of the adjacent heights, panoramic prospects of an extent, variety, and magnificence, may be enjoyed, unsurpassed by any thing in the west of Scotland. Climate and Diseases. — That the climate of this district is not insalubrious is sufficiently evidenced by the generally healthy con- dition of the natives, and the advanced age which many of them attain. The prevailing winds being from the west and south-west, * Scotch metrare is iiiTariably alluded to in this Acoount. KILBIRNIK. 691 are frequently surcharged with vapour ; and as the high lands of this parish are among the first to arrest a portion of their mois- ture, the consequent rains are frequent, and often heavy and con* tinuous. There are no peculiar diseases incident to the locality ; the most prevalent are fevers, rheumatisms, and occasionally con* sumptions, which can scarcely be attributed to the climate, inas« much as the same diseases are to be met with all over Scotland. This healthy character will not, however, we are assured, apply to the population lately superinduced on that of the village, by the establishment of two extensive manufactories. Among this portion of the inhabitants, what with the high temperature of the factory, enfeebled constitutions, and inattention to cleanliness, there is almost ever less or more of typhus fever — an epidemic that will never fail to scourge the lower classes of society, until they acquire the good sense of preferring nutritious food to whisky, and the comforts of cleanliness to dirty and improvident habits. Hydroffraphy.^-^There are numerous perennial springs of ex- cellent water in this parish, but none have yet been discovered possessing medicinal virtues; that, especially, of Birinie's well, situated about a quarter of a mile north of the ruins of Kilbimie Place, to which it had been conducted by pipes, is alike remark- able for its strength, and the superior quality of the water. Rivers. — The Garnock and the Maich, the latter forming the northern boundary of the parish, are the only streams of any note. The Gamock rises at the base of the hill of Staik, and traverses the district in the direction of south-east. About a mile and a-half from its source, it forms a wild and romantic waterfall, called the Spout of Garnock, which, after heavy rains, presents an animated spectacle, strongly in contrast with the immobility and stillness of the surrounding scenery. Nearly three miles farther down, it winds in melancholy murmurings round two sides of the precipi- tous knoll, on which are perched the tottering ruins of Glengar- nock Castle. Descending thence for a short distance through a wooded ravine, it hastens over a rocky channel, and after skirting the village of Kilbimie, quietly pours its accumulated waters through a strath of much beauty, in the lower part. of the parish. It then pursues its devious course through the parishes of Dairy and Kilwinning, aod, after being considerably augmented by many tributary streams, falls into the sea at Irvine. Like other moun- tain rivers, a heavy fall of rain renders, in a short time, the Gar- Dock an impassable torrent, a little way from its source ; while dur- 692 AYRSHIRE. iDg the summer moDths, it is frequently fordable at nearly all points within the parish. Its banks are tame, presenting, in their ^hole extent, no charms to the admirer of picturesque scenery ; the im- mediate environs of Glengarnock Castle, and of the waterfall, alone excepted. The right to the salmon-fishing of this ri?er from the Rough bum, a mile north of the town of Kilwinning, to the Polgree water, about half a mile below Kilbimie Kirk, belongs to Blair of Blair, having been granted to that family by the mo- nastery of Kilwinning, to which it anciently belonged. Above the latter rivulet, the fishing of the Gramock is considered free* The source of the Maich is close by the south side of the Misty- Law in Renfrewshire. It runs in a direction nearly parallel to the Garnock, from which it is nowhere more than a mile and a half distant After a sinuous course of about five miles in a deep channel, occasionally fringed with natural wood, this *^ lonely moor- land river," enters Kilbirnie Loch from the north, to which it is by much the most steady and abundant contributor. Kilbimie Loch lies in the south-east quarter of the parish, and constitutes part of its boundaries in that direction. It is a beau- tiful sheet of pellucid water, and forms a noble feature in the wide- spread landscape. Its banks, though tame, are remarkably clean, and, where not adorned with trees, arable fields slope gently to its margin. It extends a mile and a half in length, is scarcely half a mile in breadth, and its greatest depth is about five fathoms and a half. Besides the Maich, the loch receives supplies from the Mains and the Bath burns, streamlets which have their sources close by the town of Beith ; and its only outlet is by the Dubs Water, which discharges itself into Lochwinnoch Loch. It is well stored with pike, perch, trout, and eel, and is betimes the resort of the wild duck and heron. The comparative tranquillity that has hi- therto hung over this crystalline expanse, will in a short time be invaded by the noise of locomotive vehicles, and other sounds in- cident to a great thoroughfare, as the railroad from Glasgow to Ayr runs along its east bank. The loch forms part of the estate of Kilbimie, although that property does not extend around one- half of its circumference.* * Kilbimie Loch is thus noticed by Bellenden, the translator of Boece : ^* In Cunninghame is ane toch narait Garnoth, nocht unlike to I^och Doune, ftxll of Bsefae.** It was subsequently called I^och Thankart. In 1028, David Cunyngbame of Ro- bertland is served heir of David Cunynghame, his liither, in the lands and barony of Glengarnock " et loch de Looh Thankart." It belonged to the Cunninghams of Glengarnock, but the Craufurds of Kiibirnie disputed their right, and, in the spirit of the timesi these fkmilies called out their tenants and retainers and broke one an- KILBIRNIE. 693 Geology* — Viewed geologically, the parish is divided into two sec- tions, unequal in extent, and widely different in character. They are separated by a line running east and west The north division, which is the largest, occupies an extensive tract of hilly country. It is of an igneous origin, and belongs to the secondary trap formation, being composed chiefly of greenstone and porphyry ; but except to the curious in speculative geology, it presents little that is in* teresting. None of the metallic veins usually associated with the trap formation have been observed. Agates, however, and other simple minerals, are occasionally met with ; and the vein of ba- rytes, which is worked in the island of Arran to the south-west, and at Muirshiels, in the parish of Lochwinnoch, to the north- east, and which has also been discovered in the parish of Kilpa- trick, still farther to the north-east, is supposed to traverse this district But the most interesting, as well as valuable mineral products of the parish, are on the south side of the line indicated. They belong to the carboniferous series of stratified rocks, and occupy an area of about 1500 acres, stretching along the valley of the Gramock. Where the strata have been denuded by streams and otherwise, opportunities occur of investigating the sedimentary rocks, and this has been done with tolerable accuracy to a depth of 120 fathoms. At the depth here mentioned, a limestone post of excellent quality, measuring thirty feet, rests upon a bed of marl, of unknown thickness. Over the limestone, and extending twenty-five fathoms upwards, thinner Umestone bands of inferior quality prevail, alternating with shale and freestone. The sixty fathoms next in succession, besides two layers measuring fifteen feet each, formed of ironstone nodules thickly imbedded in shale, comprehend not fewer than twenty ironstone bands, chiefly argil- laceous, varying in thickness from one to thirty inches, with inter- vening beds of fine clay, lime, freestone, aluminous schist^ and thin coal seams. The next thirty fathoms reaching to the surface, con- tain four workable seams of coal, a few calcareous ironstone bands, with strata of freestone, lime, and shale. others boats. A c«sc between them is reported, 16th July 1626, (Mor. Diet. p. 10631,) from which it appears that both parties bad the loch included in their titles. The Craufurds of Kilbirnie subsequently acquired right to the barony of Glengarnock and theru was no longer room for dispute on the subject. Sir John Craufurd's right was ratified by Parliament in 1641. * The lucid and comprehensive account of the geology of the parish here given has been most obligingly contributed by Andrew Craig, Esq., Westfield House, King- ston, GUisgow. 694 AYRSHIRE* The coal field is found distributed into basins generally of no great extent, sometimes detached, at other times passing into eaeb other by a ridge or undulation, without throwing off the metals. The usual dip is one foot in seven. The basins are seldom found to correspond altogether in their stratification, and are intersected in all directions by faults and dikes, the one dislocating the strata^ the other merely disjoining them, without altering their level, and both, from their frequency, adding to the difficulties of the miner. Of course, it will appear that the account here given, is to be re- garded merely as an approximation to the general state of the mi* neral deposits under notice. The coal has been worked for a long time, but never extensive- ly. The aggregate thickness of the four workable seams is about 14 feet. The average distance from the surface to the upper seam, is 15 fathoms; from that to the second, 6 ; from the second to the third, 8; and from the third to the lowest, 3. The up- per seam is peculiar in this respect, that it is found to assume quite distinct aspects at different parts of the field* At one pointy it is the bituminous or cannel coal, now so much in demand for the manufacturing of gas ; at another, it is the common free coal ; in other situations, again, both descriptions of coal exist ie connection, the one overlying the other ; and last of all, the two coals are found parted by a few inches of black-band ironstone. However much the seam may vary in its composition at different places, it undergoes no material change in point of thickness, for as the one kind of coal increases, the other is found to diminish. The three lower coals are composed of free coal : one of them known as the smithy coal, is prized for the purposes of the forge^ and all of them are good household coal. The freestone of the districtcomprehends numerous seams, rang- ing in thickness from an inch to eighteen feet Some of the quar- ries afford compact and durable blocks, well adapted for building. In the flagstone quarries again, pavement of all dimensions is pro- cured at little expenditure of labour. The limestone exists in great abundance, is worked to a consi- derable extent, and is much esteemed both for building and agri- cultural purposes. The ironstone has never been turned to account, but is now underlease with a view to the establishment of iron-works. Some time ago, a carbonaceous ironstone, similar to Muscbet's black- KILBtRNIE. 695 band, was discovered in this and the adjoining parish of Dairy. It is situated about thirty fathoms below the fourth coal. It is up- wards of two feet thick, and yields about 40 per cent of metallic iron. This and a few of the other bands, it is supposed, may be made available for the purpose of smelting. Considerable risk is thought to attend the contemplated undertaking, arising especial- ly from the nature of the coal, which in this district is of a softer quality than any that has hitherto been employed in reducing iron ore. Should it be found necessary to subject it, in the first in- stance, to the process of coking, much additional expense will be en- tailed on the manufacturer, and he will thus be less able to compete with others who do not labour under the same disadvantage. If, however, the works should prove successful, as it is hoped they may, their establishment, on an extensive scale, will doubtless add to the prosperity of the district A vein of graphite or black-lead is intersected by the stream which divides this parish from that of Dairy ; but no attempt, it is believed, has yet been made to ascertain its quality, or trace its ex* tent SoiL — The soil in the lower or south end of the parish is a deep alluvial loam of great fertility. Ascending the river it gradually changes into a rich clayey loam, while to the east along Kilbirnie loch and part of the course of the Maich, it is a light red clay, resting on a stiff clay subsoil. West of the Garnock, clayey loam likewise prevails, and occasionally adhesive clay mixed with sand, varied with numerous stripes of meadow ground, almost every farm in this quarter having two or more acres of this valuable ground. The soil of the higher grounds being incumbent on trap and lime- stone, is light and dry, and its fertility is sufficiently evinced by the excellency of the pastures. The moorish uplands are gene- rally moss of various depths, resting on a light-coloured clay, and the more level parts are much broken by hags and pools of stag- nant water. Zoology. — There are no rare species of quadrupeds in this pa^ rish, nor are we aware that any uncommon remains have at any time been discovered. The ordinary wild animals of the country, such as the fox, the polecat, the weazel, the stoat, and the hedge- hog, are numerous, especially in the higher parts of the parish. The otter also frequents Garnock and the loch, during the spring, principally for eels, which it seems to live on at that season. The 696 AYUSHIHE. badger, too, was formerly to be met with in the glens, bat it is no longer to be found. Hares and the more common species of game are numerous, and would become more so, were their illegal destruction more effectually checked. Birds, — Besides above sixty of the common birds of Scotland, several of the more uncommon species are stationary here. Of the latter, including the rarer summer and winter visitants, the compiler of this Account is indebted to Mr John Jamieson, Kilbimie, a skilful and enthusiastic ornithologist, for the following interesttog list. Tetrao Tetrix Sylvia Phoenicurua Hallux aquaticus Cotumix Yulgarit ' Lozia curviroatra Pultca atra Phasianus Colchicus Parus caudatua Soolopaz rusttoola Falco percgrinua Pyrrhula vulgaris Tringa pugnax Bateo Tulgarii FringiUa montifringilla Cygniis fbrua Buteo palumbariits - spin us Anser ferus Strix stridula carduelis . Bernicla Caprimulgu9*Earopflnis Sturnua vulgaris Podiccpa rubdicoUia Lanius excubitor Garrulus glandarius Proccllaria glacialis Turdus torquatns Alcedo Ispida Icarus argentatus Saxicola Rubioola Ardea stellaris Nyroca fuligula Fishinff. — Kilbirnie loch contains trout, pike, perch, roach, and eel, the latter especially in abundance ; and of the three first very large ones have occasionally been killed. The Garnock and the Maich are good trouting streams, particularly the former. There would, it is believed, be few rivers in the county equal to the Garnock, in this respect, if the unprincipled destruction of the fish in its tributary rivulets, during the spawning season, could be prevented. Last autumn, one individual caught, by means of a stake- bag -net, no fewer than 150 stones. A few salmon ascend the river as high as, and even above Kilbirnie, in November and December, but they are mostly all destroyed by the night poacher. From a variety of causes, their numbers, it would appear, are year- ly decreasing. We have been assured that, about fifty years ago, salmon were to be seen in the latter end of harvest, sporting in every pool of" the river above and below the village, and it is but rarely now that a few solitary stragglers are to be seen so high. Botany. — It does not appear that there is any thing peculiarly interesting in the botany of the parish. In the lower district, ve> getation is rather luxuriant, and by no means deficient in variety ; but there are few species of the plants that are generally marked as rare in Scotland. The following, however, that are not very common, may be found here : *' KILBIRNIE. 697 Veronica scutellata Sambucus ebulus Tormentilla reptans Parietaria officinalis Allium urdnum Thatictrum flavum Anchunasempervirent Epilobium angustifolium Ranunculus hederaceus ContolvuIuB sepium Vaceinium vitis idaa , lingua Campanula trachelium Adoxa moschatellina Geranium pratense Solanum Dulcamara Saxifraga granulata Hypericum humifusum Ligustmra roeum ■ hypnoides «— — -hirsutum Sison verticillatum Sedum telephlum — -pulchrum Chsrophyllom odorata Prunus padua Inula belenium Imperatoria oestrutbium ■ cerasus The Conium maculatumf hemlock, generally so plentiful, is not known in this parish, except in one spot near the ruins of Kilbirnie House. The Malvaceae seem to be entire strangers ; only one spe- cimen, the Malva moackata^ having been found which could not be reckoned indigenous. The Ukx Europcsusy furze, was not known until a few years ago, when it was sown for a fence. Plantations, — With the exception of about twenty acres planted by the late Mr Cochran of Ladyland, some thirty years ago, and eleven acres on the estate of Kilbirnie, along the margin of the loch, in 1807, there has been nothing done in this respect, within the remembrance of any one, worth noticing. A few thin strag- gling belts and detached rows o( trees, consisting chiefly of ashes, elms, and planes, spreading out in different directions from the ruins of Kilbirnie House, are all that now remains of the noble sylvan embellishments of the parks and pleasures-grounds of this ancient seat of the Crawfurds. There are still a few fine old trees around the site of the ancient house of Ladyland ; and the modern plantations on that estate, consisting, in a great measure, of chestnuts, planes and firs, are thriving in the very best style. A few farm-houses too, are partially sheltered by immemorial ashes and planes ; but by far the greater part of them are marked by a scantiness akin to absolute destitution of such beneficial and oma-» mental accompaniments. There is thus a great deficiency both of old woodlands and modern plantations throughout the parish- there being only about seventy-eight acres in all ; a deficiency that will not probably be fully remedied until the principal estate can claim a resident proprietor. n. — Civil History. There is nothing in the history of the parish that can be stated apart from that of the more ancient families by whom it has been possessed. The few memorabilia of unchronicled conflicts refera- ble to a period antecedent to the introduction of Christianity, such as tumuli or cairns, have been all, with one doubtful exception, removed within the present century. During the long reign of 698 AYRSHIBE. feudal tyranny, the district of Cuninghame, though occasionally disturbed by such murderous feuds as those of the houses of Kil- maurs and Eglinton, seems, on the whole, to have bene6ted by the humanizing influence of the church — one of the largest properties being that of the Abbey of Kilwinning, while the predatory vio- lence to which the border counties, and those in the vicinity of the Highlands, were subject, was here unknown* EmiTunt Men, — The only eminent person whom this parish can claim, is Captain Thomas Crawfurd, of JordanhilL He was the sixth son of Laurence Crawfurd of Kilbimie, and Helen, daughter of Sir Hugh Campbell of Loudon. He was ^ brave and enter- prisbg officer, and his adventurous exploit of storming the almost impregnable castle of Dumbarton in 157 1, is familiar to every one acquainted with the history of Scotland during the minority of James VL This extraordinary feat of courage and dexterity, the boldness of which, says Sir Walter Scott, was unequalled by the siege of the Numidian fortress mentioned by Sallust, or the more modem surprise of Fecamp during the wars of the league, has con- ferred, deserved celebrity on his name. In consideration of this and other faithful services. Captain Craufurd received a grant of several lands in the neighbourhood of Glasgow, whence his title of Jordanhill, besides an annuity of L. 200 Scots during his life, payable out of the priory of St Andrews. He appears to have commenced his military career at a very early age, as he was taken prisoner at the disastrous battle of Pinkie in 1547, — which bloody event he survived fifty-six years. The latest notice we have met with of this celebrated character, into the detail of whose public life it would be unsuitable to enter here, is in the year 1581, when the king, by a gift dated at Holyrood, grants him L. 100 Scots yearly ^* out of the superflue of the third of the benefices not'assignat to the maintenance of the ministrie." Much of the last twenty years of his life was probably spent in retirement, — the state of the country no longer demanding his military services. It must, therefore, be to some part of this disengaged period, that the residence allotted him by tradition at Kersland, in the adjoining parish of Dairy, the heiress of which he had married, must be assigned. In 1594, Captain Craufurd erected a monument to himself and his lady in Kilbimie church-yard, and " bequeathed," says Mr George Craufurd, the learned historian of the shire of Renfrew, ** his body to be buried there." The monument is still entire, KILBIRKIE. 699 though much weather-wasted. It is built of chiselled sand- stone, and is of a quadrangular form, nine feet long, six feet in width, and six feet four inches in height, and is covered hori- zontally with the same material. Through an aperture in the east end, by the aid of a faint light admitted through a slit in the south wall, are seen the recumbent statues of the gallant captain in military garb, and of his spouse in the costume of the times. On the exterior of the north wall, in relieved characters now scarcely legible, is the following inscription, every version of which hitherto printed has been more or less at variance with the original : — God . ScHAw . Tub . Right • Heir . lyis . Thomas . And . Jonet . Ker • his . CrAVPVHD . OV .'Jos • SpOUS . BLDEST • DOC . DANBIL . 6EXT . SON . HTEB . TO . RoBBRT . KBB • TO . LaVRBNCE . CrAV • OF . ESRRISLAND . FVRD . OF . KlLBlRNY . 1.5.9.4. In the centre, of the inscription is a shield bearing quarterly Crawfurd and Ker, and for crest a figure, by its irregular outline, meant probably to represent a rock, in allusion to Dunbarton Castle. Captain Craufurd died 3d January 1603, and was buried close to the inscribed wall of the monument. Division of Landy S^c. — The parish was anciently possessed by three different families. It is still nominally composed of three estates, or baronies, namely, Kilbirnie, Glengarnock, and Lady- land; though the two last have been considerably broken up, — there being at present twenty proprietors holding portions of them rang- ing from 15 to 116 acres. 1. The barony of Kilbirnie has always been by much the most extensive of these estates. It occupies the south and most fertile quarter of the parish, and consists of about 5500 acres, of which nearly 3000 are arable, meadow and woodland. This barony of old belonged to a branch of the Barclays of Ardrossan, a family of some distinction in the early history of the country. In 1470, the line of the Barclays terminated in an heiress, who married Malcolm Craufurd of Greenock, the founder of the family of Craufurd of Kilbirnie. Their descendants flourished in high re- pute for valour, loyalty, and honourable connections, in unbroken succession, upwards of 200 years, when the male descent failed in the family of Sir John Craufurd, who died in 1661. By his se- cond wife, daughter of Lord Carnegie, he had two daughters, the 700 AYRSHIRE. eldest of whom was married to Sir Archibald Stewart of Blackhalli and the youngest, Margaret, to Patrick Lindsay, the second son of the fourteenth Earl of Craufurd. Upon the heirs of this mar^ riage. Sir John Craufurd settled the estate of Kilbimie^ on condi- tion of their assuming the name and armorial ensigns of Craufurd. Patrick Lindsay and bis lady died both in 1680.* Their eldest son, John, was created in 1703, by Queen Anne, Viscount Mount- Craufurd, which title he had afterwards changed to that of Gar- nocL He died in 1708, and his grandson, Greorge, fourth Vis« count succeeding in 1749 to John, eigbteenth Earl of Craufurd and fourth of Lindsay, the title of Gamock merged in the more ancient honours of that noble house. He was succeeded by his son George, who dying unmarried in 1808, the titles became ex- tinct, and the estates fell to his only surviving sister. Lady Mary Lindsay Craufurd. On her demise in 1833, she was succeeded by George, fourth Earl of Glasgow, in right of his descent from Margaret, the eldest sister of the first Viscount Garnock. 2. The barony of Glengarnock extends over both sides of the upper course of the Garnock, and consists of about 1400 acres, of which fully more than 1000 are excellent arable land, and the remainder moor pasture. Nearly 700 acres of the best land of this barony belong to the estate^of Kilbirnie, along with the supe- riority of all the rest. About 420 acres of it are possessed by nine different proprietors, all of whom have a right in conmion to a considerable extent of moorland pasture. Tlie most ancient possessors of this barony on record were the Riddels, supposed to be descended of the Riddels of Teviotdale, * The deaths of Patrick Lindsay and the herctrix of Kilbirnie are thus detailed in Law's Memorialls: *' October 1680. In one week*8 tynie, dyed, first, the Lady Kilburnie, daughter to the late laird of it, on the i2th of that instant, and her hus- band, the laird, second son of the Earl of Lindsay, who ^tt that estate by marrying this Uird*8 daughter, dies also upon the 15tb of that instant, both of a leaver. The Sabbath before, they were at the celebration of the Lord's Supper at the kirk of Belth. On the day they sickened, the laird's dogs went into the closs, and an unoo dog coming in amongst them, they aU set up a bar kins, with their faces up to heaven howling, yelling, and youphing; and when the laird cslled upon them, they would not come to him, as in former times when he called upon them. The death of thir spouse* was much lamented by all sorts of people. T^ left seven children behind them ; within a few days after, the Lady Blackball, her sister, beine infected with the same disease, (for it was a pestileniioua feavcr), and coming to Kilburnie to wait on the funeralls, she also dyes there.*' I'p. 165^—824. It would appear that a considerable party of the citizens of Glasgow had attended the funeral of these distinguished in- dividuals, for on the 21st December following, the town-council ordained ** John llobesoune to have ane warrand for the sourae of thrie hundreth scxtie punds n^ne shilling iScots, payed be him for the expenses and hors hyres of these that went to the buriall of Kilburnie> his Ladie, and to the buriall of the Ladie BlackhalL** Me> morabilia of the City of Glasgow, 1835, p. 320. k KILBIRNIK, 701 one of our oldest Scottish families. Of the history of those of Glengarnock, all that is known with certainty is, that the line ter« minated in an heiress, who, some time previous to 1266, had es- poused Hervey Cunningham of Kilmaurs, to whom the peerage writers have assigned the honour of having gallantly distinguished himself at the battle of the Largs in 1263. Galfridus, the second son of this marriage, was the ancestor of the Cunninghams of Glengarnock. The early annals of this ancient family are, how- ever, very meagre, and, unless it be to the genealogist, altogether uninteresting. During the sixteenth century, they become more ex- tended, and of the feuds, rencounters, and conspiracies in which the lairds of Glengarnock were frequently and evidently with no Aver- sion engaged, there are many notices recorded. The most rest- less and enterprising spirit of his race, seems to have been William, the thirteenth possessor of the barony, who closed his turbulent ca- reer at the fatal battle of Pinkie, 1 0th September 1547. His will, made on the eve of his departure from his house of Glen- garnock to that disastrous field, an interesting document, and hitherto unpublished, is subjoined.* Sir James Cunningham, the sixteenth in descent from Galfridus, who married Kathe- * This document, of which a literal translation follows, is preserved in the records of the Vicar- General of Glasgow. It is now in the course of being printed for the Maltland Club> — the contribution of William Patrick, Esq. of Roughwood :^ " Death is certain — the hour most uncertain. Hence it is that I, William Cunyng- hame of Glengarnock, taking my way to rencounter our old enemies, and, in the event of sudden death, maki; and ordain my testament and last will. 1 n the 6rst place, I give and leave my soul to Almighty God, the most blessed Virgin Mary, and all saints, and my bones to be buried where it shall please the Most High. And 1 leave iiij pence to the iabrick of St Kentlgem, and zx pound to be given to a chaplain duly ordained to pray for my soul in the parochial church of Kilbirny. Also, I leave to Sir Ho- bert Cunyngham, chaplain, z merkis of money ; likewise I leave to the Friars Mi- nor of Air and Glasgow, zx merkis. Also, I appoint and ordain that my tenants have the liberty of compounding their debts. Further, I appoint my executors, viz. Elizabeth Syndair, my wife, and Lady Isabella Cunyngham, my mother only ; and I leave my four best horses to my four sons, in such a way that the eldest shall have the first choice of the same, viz. ay the eldest to cheis fiist, and that the heirship horse shall stand to my heir for his choice. I leave to Alexander Cunyngham, my younger son, the younger horse called the ' seur staig,* and to John Blair, my son-in-law, the younger horse, called the * brown staig.* 1 grant and assign to Elizabeth Cunyng- hame, my daughter, relict of the late Alexander Schaw of Sauchguy, that sum of 400 merkis, resting upon the lands and buildings of Sir John Makghe, vicar of Abruth- ven, lying within the city of Glasgow ; as also that sum of 200 merkis, owing by the said Sir John, I assign to the foresaid Elizabeth, towards relieving my ex ecu trices of the forementioned sum of 700 merkis due to the said Elizabeth. Moreover, all my goods, moveable and immoveable^ my debts being taken out and paid, I give and leave to my three daughters, to be distributed and apportioned at the will of my ezecutrices aforesaid, as tbey diall answer to the Supreme Judge." This testament was made by the mouth of the departing, **• the xxix day of the montli of August, in the year of our Lord, 1547, my manuel subscription bearing testimony, at Glengarnock." Follows the form of subscription, ** William Cuuyningham of Glengarnok, with my hand." This testament was confirmed. &c. 4th November 1647. T02 ATRSHIRB. rine, daughter of the Earl of Glencaim, assigned, in 7009, tlie lands, of Glengarnock in behoof of his creditors, and went to Ire- land, where he had got a grant of 12,000 acres of land from King James VL A few years afterwards, the estate was sold to Cun- ningham of Robertland, whose son being unable to keep it, it wa« acquired in right of a wadset by Adam Watt, clerk to the Signet, from whose successor it was purchased, about 1680, by Patrick Lindsay, husband of the heiress of Kilbimie, and it has ever since formed a valuable part of that estate. S. The barony of Ladyland occupies the northern quarter of the parish, and contains upwards of 1800 acres, of which nearly one-half is arable ; the remainder, consisting of excellent upland pastures, and a considerable extent of moorland. Of the arable ground, about 400 acres belong to twelve different proprietors, the general extent of whose properties is from 20 to 40 acres each,*— 15 acres being the lowest, and 1 16 the highest that any of them possess. They have all a right of pasture over the moorland. The great body of the barony belongs, however, to the heirs of the late William Cochrane, Esq. of Ladyland. Of the more ancient proprietors of this estate, there appears to be nothing recorded. Prior to 1564, it had been acquired by a branch of the Barclays of Kilbirnie, for, in that year, David Bar- clay of Ladyland is one of the jury on the trial of Patrick Hous- ton of that ilk, for assaulting Archibald Hamilton of Cochno, on the streets of Dunbarton. In 1 592, his son and successor. Hew Barclay, was apprehended as accessory to some treasonable con- spiracy for ^* inbringing of Spaniards to the overthrow of his High- ness and all professing the true religion.^ He was imprisoned in the Castle of Glasgow, but escaped and went to Spain. In 1597 he returned and took possession of the rock of Ailsa, which he intended to have victualled for the service of his colleagues, but, being surprised by his enemies, he ran into the sea and was drowned.* Hugh Barclay, in his happier days, was the friend and companion of Montgomery the poet, and appears himself to have written verses, as two of his sonnets have been preserved, one of which is addressed to the author of *^ the Cherry and the Slae,'' and the other to his friend Ezechial Montgomery.-f- The former of these is full of quaint humour, and shows that the au- thor was, at the time of writing of it, in the country, ** botching • Spottiswood*s Hiitory of the Church of Scotland, p. 445. t Sm Inring*! edition of Montgomery's Poems, p. d6. 4 KILBIRNIE« 703 on a sped," " draiglit in dirt, vhylis wal erm to Aedoo;' regret- ting his absence from his eorrespondent, who, with his friends, was " birling at the wyne** and " poaing Bacchus luggis," The BandajFS told Lady land about 1620. The estate was acquired by Hamilton of Ardoch, previously to 1669 ; but this family did not long retain it, for in 1710, it belonged to a Henry Moncrieff, who granted sereral charters to the vassals of the barony. It was, shortly after the above date, purchased by Alexander, ninth Earl of Eg- lintofl, who sold it in 1718, to William Cochran of Edge, by whose descendants it is now possessed. Parochial Registers. — The register of baptisms and marriages commences in the year 1688. A blank occurs between the 9th July 17^, and the 5th December 1725, " in consequence," as is stated on the record, " of there being no schoolmaster during that period;" and another from the same cause, between the 10th Ja- nuary 1781, and the 16th March 1732. Again, the register of marriages, from the 3d July 1729, to the 15th June 1738, has been lost ; but from this date to the present time, there are appa- rently no omissions. The registry of deaths begins in 1753, and is preserved entire. Minutes of the kirk-session commence also in 1688. but there is an unregretted gap in these impure records, excepting some illegible scraps, extending from 1725 to 1791. Money accounts in reference to the poor are likewise preserved from 1688 to the present time, and minutes of meetings of heritors since 1823. Antiquities. — Various tumuli have, at different times, been acci- dentally explored in this parish, and in some of which urns 611ed with calcined bones have been found, and in others stone coffins containing human remains. Early in the century, three stone- coffins, but without the addition of any mound over them, were discovered on the right bank of the Garnock, about a quarter of a mile below Kilbirnie Bridge ; one of them contained a large urn filled with burnt bones ; but in neither of the other two, nor in one opened about the same time on the opposite bank of the river, near to Nether- Mill, and close to the base of a large banow or mound, were found any relics whatsoever. About thirty years ago, the late Mr 0>chran, in the course of his agricultural improve- ments, had occasion to remove a slightly elevated tumulus, situat- ed on the lands of Ladyland, in the centre of which a small urn was found containing ashes. The urn, until lately, was to be seen in the Museum of Glasgow College, to which it was presented by 704 AYRSHIRE, Mr Cochran, but it appears now to be either lost or withdrawn from that collection. In 1836, a stone coffin, coDtainic^ remains of human bones, was discovered on the farm of Langlands, about three*quarters of a mile north of Kilbirnie. The tumulus over it was by much the most remarkable object of the kind in this quarter. It stood on the level part of a field, skirted by the Garnock on the west, from which it was fifty yards distant. It was of a circular form, 100 feet in diameter, and six feet in height. Originally, it had been much higher, but, about the beginning of the century, a great quantity of stones were taken from its summit to form a road in the neighbourhood. What remained of it in 1830, was composed of stones of various dimensions intermixed with earth. Few of th.ese were heavier than a man could carry, excepting a row placed seven feet withm the line of the base, and some three or four feet apart, each of which might weigh half a ton. The coffin or chest, which was formed of six flat stones neatly fitted together, measured 2 feet 7 inches in length; 1 foot 9 inches in breadth ; and 1 foot 7 inches in depth. It was situated in the centre of the tumulus, and its longitudinal position was north and south. It contained nothing but bones very mucli decayed^ and the greater part of which lay in its south end. Many of these, on being handled and exposed to the air, crumbled into dust, hut se- veral of the fragments which have been preserved can be distinct- ly recognized as belonging to the human species. In the spring of 1837, every vestige of this primeval monument was removed. The mound situated at Nether-mil), incidentally mentioned above, is of an irregular pyramidal form, about 18 yards in length, 9 in breadth, and between 5 and 6 in height It is, we doubt not, artificial, and has apparently been formed by excavating the adjoining bank, which overlooks.it. This opinion, though not supported by popular belief or local tradition, is strengthened by the unstratified appearance of the composition of the mound, and by the circumstance of the stone*coffin already noticed, being disco- vered in its immediate vicinity. Coin, — In tilling a field last year, near the ruins of Glengar- nock castle, there was turned up a silver coin about the size of a modern shilling. It is in excellent preservation, having apparent- ly been little worn, and weighs about one drachm thirty-five grains. The obverse bears the Scottish shield and crown, supported by the letters M. and R. Legend, . Maria . Dei . G . Scotor . Regina. 1556. On the reverse, a large cross, with four less in its quar- KILBIRMK. 705 ters. Legend, In • Virtute • Tua • Libera • Me. It is of pure siU ver, or appears to be so : — it feels like malleable iron ; the modern silver coinage like cast^metak KHbimie House. — The stately ruins of the ancient house or Place of Kilbirnie, are situated a mile west of the village, and overlook a considerable extent of country beyond the valley beau- tified with Kilbimie loch, and fertilized by the Gamock. The surrounding grounds fall gently towards this valley, and are varied but slightly by a shallow dingle, on the margin of which stands the ruined mansion. The building, which has been erected at two widely different periods, consists of an ancient quadrilateral tower, and a modern addition, extending rectangularly from its east side. The tower is 41 feet in length by 32 feet in width, and its walls are 7 feet thick. Its height has been divided into four storeys, the lowest of which is vaulted and without a fire-place. The second con- sisted of a hall, 26 feet long, and 18 feet wide, has likewise been vaulted, and lighted tolerably by a window in its south wall, and another facing the west. Above the hall have been two tiers of chambers ; but of their subdivisions there are no traces left. Access to the different floors and to the roof, has been gained by a nar- row spiral stair in the north-east angle of the building. A way fenced with a parapet has gone round the top, all of which has fallen down, as well as every vestige of the roof, which was proba- bly of the high triangular form, common to such castellated man- sions. It is impossible, from any peculiarities in the masonry of this feudal tower, to ascertain the period of its construction. The absence of gun-ports in its walls, a provision of defence with which every stronghold erected subsequently to the use of fire-arms was furnished, seems to imply that it was built, at the latest, in the early part of the fourteenth century, and consequently, in the days of the Barclays, the most anciently recorded Lords of the ba- rony. The modern part of the edifice was built about 1627, and must have proved a satisfactory increase of light and airy accommodation to that afforded by the sombre tower. It extends 74 feet, is 25 in width, and has been three storeys in height, besides the attics, the pedimented windows of which have risen above the lower line of the roof, as have likewise the hanging turrets at the extremities of the principal fH9ade. Much of the exterior walls of both parts of the building is still entire ; and, as is frequently AYR. y y 706 AYRSHIRE. the case in similar ruioous structures, the most ancient pari is the least dilapidated. Most of the interior divisions have, with- in these few years, fallen down, a few of the vaulted apartments excepted, and in these the ** lazy steer and sheep,'' have been long I ermitted to 6nd a shelter. The building was entirely de- stroyed by 6re accidentally kindled on the 1st May 1757, and from which, as it occurred at an early hour of the morning, the Earl of Crawford with his infant daughter and the domestics, had little more than time to escape. Eighty years of exposure to the weather have much lessened, and greatly enfeebled what the fire had spared ; while, during this long period, all the contiguous pleasure-grounds have been torn up by the plough, or permitted to run waste, 'f'he noble straight-lined avenue, full twenty yards in breadth, has returned to a state of nature : — the gardens situated to the west, instead of flowers and shrubs, are allotted to the rear- ing of potatoes and turnips; and of the orchard grounds no traces are now to be found. The high walls with which they were en- closed are everywhere breaking down, and all the fine old lim- ber, which had beautified and sheltered ^^ the Place" for ages, and afterwards added much to the grandeur and interest of its ruins, has disappeared within the last thirty years. . Glengamack Castle, — The ruins of Glengamock Castle stand on a precipitous ridge or knoll, overhanging the Garnock, about two miles north of Kilbirnie. This brawUng stream skirts two sides of the knoll, and, as the ravine through which it flows is fully eighty feet in depth, the position, under the ancient sys- tem of warfare, must have combined security with the means of easy defence. The only access to the castle is from the north* east, in which direction the ridge, upon which it is situated, is con- nected with the adjoining field. At the distance of thirty yards from its entrance, a depression in the ground indicates what has been the course of a dry moat, by which, and a drawbridge, the approach is said to have been protected. The ground plan of this ancient stronghold could, until lately, be easily traced, and as a portion of the exterior walls still maintains nearly the original height, its appearance when entire, may, with little difiiculty, be yet shadowed out. From notes and measurements taken a few years ago, it may be described in general terms, as having consist- ed of a quadrilateral tower, with a court of less elevated buildings extending from its east side. The entrance has been from the eastern extremity of the latter. This fafade is 46 feet long, KILBIRNIE. 707 ' and has been about 24 feet in height. A court or passage, 59 feet in length, lay between the entrance and the tower, on each side of which has been a range of two-storied apartments. The tower is 45 feet long, 33 feet wide, and its height has been above 40 feet. Its upper and now only accessible storey has consisted of a hall occupying the whole extent within the walls, and the imbow* ed ceiling of which has been 20 feet in height. It has been lighted both from the court and from the exterior walls. One of the windows overlooks the rugged chasm through which murmurs the Garnock, and from two narrow apertures facing the east, the eye may yet revel over a beautiful extent of the district bearing the same name as the old lords of the castle. From the hall, a narrow circular stair led to the upper part of the building, which has been surrounded by a parapet wall. The ruins show neither the arrow-slit nor gun-port of defence so common in similar old houses. Perhaps the situation was of itself so secure as' to render ^ unnecessary the ordinary means of repelling an attack. The uni- formity of style in all castellated mansions, erected prior to the dis- covery of gunpowder, renders it hazardous to be precise regarding the date of their construction. Few, however, conversant with such remnants of feudal architecture, would hesitate to assign to the ruins of this stronghold, an antiquity as remote as that of any re- mains of masonry in the west of Scotland. It is not, therefore, im- probable that Glengamock Castle may have existed in the time of the De Morvilles, though the conjecture of its having been the residence of these ancient lords of Cunninghame, appears entitled to nearly the same consideration as that of its having been the cas- tle of Hardyknute. It may be added, in justification of so minute an account, that the ruins of this castle will soon cease to be an object of interest to the local antiquary, or to form a picturesque feature in the landscape. The storms of January 1839 overthrew the north wall of the tower, containing between 4000 and 5000 solid feet of masonry ; and tmequivocal symptoms portend, that, at no distant date, the bed of the Garnock will receive the greater part of the time-^'orn remains. Ladyland House. — The old house of Ladyland, briefly charac- terized by Pont, circa 1609, as a " strong tower," was demolished in 1815, with the exception of about 20 feet in length and 25 feet in height of its north elevation. This fragment is six feet in thick- 708 AYRSHIRE^ ness, and as compact as the solid rock. A pedimented stotief which belonged to a door or window of the building, but which is now placed over an entrance to the adjoining garden, bears the initials W. H. I. B. and the date, Anno 1669. The date re- cords, doubtless, the period of some repairs, or perhaps the year the estate was acquired by Hamilton of Ardocb, as there cannot be a question of the existing fragment of masonry having formed part of the ^* strong tower'' noticed by Pont, and in which, a few years previously to his visiting the district, had resided Barclay^ the unfortunate friend of Montgomery the poet, as had likewise, probably, all his ancestral possessors of the barony of Ladyland. In taking down this ancient strong house, there were found, in a ca- vity in one of the walls, a little above the foundation, four small urns, a painted drinking glass, and a large jaw bone, supposed to have been that of an ox. The urns were neatly formed of com- mon clay,- three of which were filled with an unctuous kind of earthy and one of them, besides the earth, contained the breast and side bones of a chicken. Two of the urns had handles, and all of them were tightly closed with shreds of trimming or woven cloth, the most of which, on being taken out, crumbled into powder. Part of these relics are preserved by Mrs Cochran of Ladyland, as is a small coin found in the grounds adjoining the tower. The coin is of some compound metal, and bears the legend festlna lcnte ; but the date and the impress on both sides appear to have been effaced by long circulation. Modem Buildings.— In 1816, the late Mr Cochran built an elegant and commodious house on his estate of Ladyland. It is pleasantly situated on a gently elevated terrace or eminence, ly* ing along the base of the high grounds in the north-east extremi- ty of the parish, and commands an interesting prospect to the south. The adjacent heights protect it from the north and east winds, and some fine old ashes, elms, and planes, and thriving mo- dern plantations, contribute much to shelter and beautify its en- virons. The grounds and approaches have been designed with much taste, and are kept in excellent order. Taken altogether, this is among the most eligible residences of its class, in this sec- tion of the county. There is no other modern building in the parish meriting, by its architecture, especial notice. It may, however, be stated, that in 1824 a commodious chapel was built by the congregation of the KiLBlRNIE. 709 Reformed Presbytery; and tbat, besides a spinning power-loom manufactory, fi?e stories in height, and a large mill for spinning flax,*there have been twenty-one two storeyeddwelling-hodses erect- ed in the village, during the last eight or nine years. Several of the fronts of these buildings are of hewn and polished ashlar, and adorned with mouldings and carved decorations, creditable to the taste and inventive capacity of their untutored architects. II I. — Population, The population of this parish has long been steadily on the in« crease. In 1755, when the first census was taken, 651 17«a, . ,700 1801, . 859 1811, 1086 1821 » 1333 1831, 1541 1841, . . 2631 The yearly average of births for the last seven years is 49 ; of marriages for the same period, 16 ; and of deaths, 37. FamiUes in 1831, . . . 315 employed in agriculture, . 60 trade and handicraft, 207 Occupiers of land employing labourers, . 35 not employing labourers, 25 Agricultural labourers, . ... 84 < Males employed in manufactures, &c. . 194 CapiUlists, professional, and other educated men, 12 Number of males, 20 years old, . . 378 Female household servants, . . . . 63 Inhabited houses, . ... 207 There are, at present, thirteen proprietors of land of above L. 50 of yearly vsJue ; 30 bachelors and widowers above 60 years of age ; 40 spinsters and widows above 45 ; 2 fatuous persons ; and during the last three years, there have been 10 illegitimate births in the parish. No nobility reside here, nor have any such resided, since the year 1759 ; and there is only one genteel family of independent for- tune occasionally resident. The increase of the population since 1831 has arisen from the establishment of a spinning power-loom manufactory, and a mill for spinning flax, which employ between them about 500 hands. Atthisdate, (February 1840) the foUowingcrafts and callings form the active or productive portion of this industrious little community : —3 agents for manufactures; 6 bakers ; 6 blacksmiths ; 100 bleach- ers; 12 carters ; 30 colliers; 1 cooper; 17 day-labourers; 150 flax- spinners; 3 fleshers; ISgrocers; 150 hand-sewers; 160 hand> 710 AYRSHIRE. loom weavers; 15 licensed publicans, all of whom do a great deal too much business ; 12 masons ; 3 nailers ; 350 power-loom weavers ;')0 quarriers; 20 rope-spinners; 4 schoolmasters: 20 shoemakers; 1 surgeon; 12 tailors; 2 tinsmiths; 13 wrights. Character^ Habits^ ^c, — In the former Statistical Account, the inhabitants were characterized as being '^ sober, quiet, active and industrious," and we doubt not that to this character thej still have generally a good claim. Since the period referred to, there has been a marked improvement in their mode of living — in their ha- bits of domestic and personal cleanliness — in their style of dress — and above all, perhaps, in their taste and intelligence. In all of these respects, they have kept pace with the general advance- ment of the country, without losing, we believe, any of the moral and kindly feelings for which they were formerly distin- guished. Instead of the noisy, and not unfrequently demoralizing gymnastic exercises in which they used to excel, music has of late years been successfully cultivated by the operatives, as their instrumental band sufficiently testifies, and a judiciously se- lected subscription library might be adduced as another proof of the intellectual character of the present gener^niion. It cannot be doubted that, upon the whole, the people of this parish enjoy as many of the comforts and advantages of society as any similarly constituted community in the kingdom. Many of them are not wholly dependent on their employments ; while the resources of the poor but industrious artisan are not so soon exhausted in small as in large manufacturing towns. The inhabitants, too, seem ge- nerally speaking, contented enough with their circumstances, though a few of them have of late, in becoming politicians, become dissatisfied not only with their own social position, but, strange to day, with nearly all the institutions of their country. These con- stitute, however, but an insignificant fraction of the population, the great body of which is warmly attached to the existing order in church and slate. To these general observations, we have only to add, that not a few individuals are to be met with here, aUke distinguished for sound religious principle and good moral practice. The illegal destruction of game and fishings has, of late years, much decreased in this parish, though there is still, it is said, a good deal of the former destroyed by persons maintaining a much more respectable status in society, than that held by the daring poacher of other years. KILBIRNIB. 711 IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The stateflients under this head are given with confidence, on the authority of Robert Logan, Esq, of Baillieston, one of the most spirited and enterprising agriculturists in the dis- trict. The parish contains in all 8d76 Scotch acres, of which there were in 1839, Under crop, '. . . 1280 acres. In cuhivnted grass lands and meadows, 12209 Green-hill pasture, . . 1009 Heath, moss land, water, &c. . 4000 Under wood, all planted, . . 78 About 700 acres might be added to the cultivated land, and af- terwards kept in a state of perm'anent pasture ; but this would have to be accomplished by the proprietor, as none of the waste lands would yield to the farmer a fair remuneration for their improve- ment, during the currency of an ordinary lease. There are, in the higher grounds, two undivided commons, one of which consists of 1000, and the other of 500 acres. The right to the pasturage of the former belongs to different feuars, holding various portions of the barony of Ladyland, and the latter, by a similar right, is pas- tured by the flocks of feuars of the estate of Kilbirnie. They are of no great value, the land being very poor, and situated far be- ' yond the limits of profitable cultivation. There is no natural wood worth mentioning, and to the few detached acres of plantations there seems to be little attention given — those on the estate of Ladyland excepted, which appear to be regularly* pruned and thinned, and their enclosures kept entire. We learn, however, that several acres have been recently planted on the estate of Kil- birnie, and that it is the intention of the noble proprietor, gradu- ally to extend this highly ornamental and most beneficial accom- paniment, especially over lands fit for nothing else. BeritaL — The valued rent of the parish in Scotch money is L. 2905, 14s. Id. The real rent, as recently made out to fix an assessment, is L.600I, lOs. Sterling; and of houses and gar- dens in the village L. 1200, 10s. Rent of Land* — The average rent of arable land is L. 1, 10s. per acre, but in the neighbourhood of the village, where the soil is very fertile, some fields rent as high as from L. 3 to L. 4 an acre. The general allowance for grazing a cow is L. 3, lOs. ; for a stirk, L. 1, 5 ; for a ewe or full-grown white- faced sheep, 16s. ; and for a black-faced one, 7s. 712 AYRSHIRE. ff Hate of fVoffes. — Ad uDmarried male-servant within the house receives from L. 8 to L. IQ, and female servants, from L. 3, lOs. to L. 4, 10s. per half year. The current wages of women labour- ing in the 6eld are Is. per day in sumnier, and lOd. in winter; and 2s. in summer, and Is. 6d. in winter, are the ordinary allowan- ces for men. During harvest, female reapers' wages are IQs. a week with victuals, and men's, 12s. Masons, last year, when em- ployed by the day, received from 3s. 6d. to 4s., or for common build- ing, as high, in some instances, as L. 2, 5s. per rood, and A^d. for the foot of hewing. The ordinary wages of wrights are from 2s. 6d. to 3s. a day ; but they have stated prices for the various im« plements of husbandry, as well as for every piece of work of which it is possible to estimate the value. Live- Stock* — The dairy cows in the parish are mostly of the Cunninghame breed, to the selection and rearing of which, as well as to the general management of the dairy, considerable attention is paid. The greater part of the cattle fattened for the butcher are likewise varieties of the Ayrshire species. The sheep pastured on the muirlands are the common black-faced kind of the country, and those kept on the arable farms are crosses of various English • breeds. The farm-horses are chiefly of the Clydesdale breed, — a race distinguished for strong powers, and of an activity adequate to every purpose of husbandry. The different species of live-stock are at present as follows : horses of all descriptions, 140 ; milk cows, 536 ; rearing and other varieties of cattle, 679; black-faced sheep, 1903; sheep of the English breed, 194; swine, 134. Husbandry. — Agriculture has, for many years, been as welt un- derstood and as successfully practised here, as in any part of the country. In the lower and more fertile section of the parish, the usual rotation of cropping adopted is, 1«^, oats ; 2^, green crop ; Qdi wheat, barley, or oats ; 4/A, clover and ryegrass ; bth^ pasture during three years. On the more upland farms, the rotation still followed is two white crops, one of hay and four or five years pas- ture. This system, though not approved of by modem agricultu- rists, does not want its supporters, where the dairy is a primary ob- ject of consideration. The following is a tabular view of the extent of crop sown in 1839, and of the annual average produce per acre, in Winchester bolls : KILBIRNIE. 7t3 Acref. A?erage bolls per tore. Amount. Wheat, . 40 . 6 . 240 Barley, . 29 . 5 . 14.5 OatB, . 677 . 6 . 4062 Beans, . 71 . 8 . 572 8174 acres. 5019 bolls. Acres under turnips, 31:^ ; under potatoes, 148 ; under sown grass, 278 ; under meadow hay, 135; under ^ax, 4|. Wheat was, for several years, much more extensi?ely cultivated than at present ; but, in consequence of repeated partial failures, it has been deemed expedient, of late, to restrict its cultivation. In 1836, there were from 120 to 160 acres under this crop, and the returns averaged 9 bolls per acre. Since that period, the average produce per acre has not exceeded 6 bolls. The soil ap- pears to be too retentive of moisture, and the climate too humid and cold to admit of this fine grain ever being successfully culti« vated to any extent, in this quarter. Oats, on the contrary, thrive remarkably well, and potatoes, with the exception of three or four years' failure, as well as turnips and beans, yield abundant returns. The parish is divided into 643 enclosures, and the farms 62 in all, are of various sizes, the arable ones ranging from 50 to 180 acres. The lower grounds are mostly enclosed by ditch and thorn hedges, and the upper and pastoral lands by high stone walls. Fifteen of the principal farms have thrashing-mills, and there is one corn-mill in the parish. All the lands are thirled to this mill. The multure exacted (br grinding oats raised on the Kilbirnie es- tate, is the forty-first peck ; if raised on other lands, it is from the fifteenth to the twentieth peck. The duration of leases is generally nineteen years, — a term con- sidered suflBciently long to permit the tenant to reap the benefit of ordinary outlays ; but when improvements are to be made on an extensive scale, and much hazardous expenditure is consequent- ly incurred, it might be expedient that this period should be ex- tended to twenty-five years. There are still extant a number of the old, mean, and incom- modious thatch-roofed farm-houses, in the construction of which, the comfort of the cattle seems to have been as much studied as that of their owners. These, however, are gradually being dis- placed by larger and more commodious houses, built after regu- lar and well-arranged plans. All of those erected on the Kilbir- nie estate within the last forty years, along with their attached of- ficeS) possess every convenience their occupants could possibly de- 714 AYRSHIRE. sire, while others, built od the smaller properties, present, in every respect, an equally strong contrast to the dingy hovels they have supplanted. Great and striking improvements, by draining, liming, and en- closing, have been effected in this parish, within the present centu* ry, by various individuals, and in particular, by the late William Cochran, Esq* of Ladyland. This gentleman, besides adding considerably to the extent of his arable grounds, by an extensive and skilful style of draining, beautified much his estate by clumps and belts of plantations, and was, by the consequent increased pro- ductiveness of the soil, in the course of a few seasons, amply indem* nified for all his outlays. He was, moreover, the first agricultu- rist in this quarter who introduced the enclosing and irrigation of waste lands, by which, according to Aiton, in his Agricultural View of the county of Ayr, ^* land not worth more than ds. or 4s. an acre, produced to Mr Cochran upon 1 1 acres, 3000 stones, coun- ty weight, or 4500 stones Bnglish, of good hay.'' Another por- tion of his estate, consisting of 129 acres, he raised, by bis mode of improving it, from Is. 6d. per acre, to about L. 1 of yearly value. In all his undertakings he was eminently successful, and most strikingly illustrated how much might be accomplished within the compass of half an ordinary life, by art and industry, *< When science plans the progress of their toil.'* Since their introduction by Mr Cochran, agricultural improve- ments have been widely extended here, all of which received a fresh impulse, a few years ago, by the succession of the Earl of Glasgow to the estate of Kilbirnie, comprising three-fourths of the parish. Several of the largest arable farms on that exten- sive property, are in every species of improvement rapidly. ad- vancing to the limits of perfection ; while the hope may apparent- ly be safely indulged, that the period is not distant, when all the land in the parish, susceptible of profitable cultivation, will be in an equally improved condition. Mines and Quarries. — Coal hdsbeen wrought here upwards of a century. The first pit was od the west bank of Kilbirnie loch, but in 1808, the water breaking in, the workings in this quarter have ever since been abandoned. Shortly afterwards, a pit was opened in the southern extremity of the parish, which continues to furnish two kinds of coal, both of a good quality. The upper seam, which is of the description called splint coal, is three feet in thickness, and of an average depth of fifteen fathoms from the KILBIRNIE. 7]d surface. Uader this seam, at a depth of six fathoms, a tery good slaty coal of about the same thickness as the upper seam, is like* wise wrought Both coals are overlain by limestone, and the re- gularity of the beds is frequently intersected and dislocated by dikes and other disturbing causes, denominated *^ troubles." A sandstoue quarry in the neighbourhood of the village has been less or more wrought, during the last forty years. The stone is of a fine cream colour, and, though a little coarse in the grain, it is very durable, and well adapted for every purpose of country masonry. Though this stone is to be had in large masses at the quarry, or in plates of large dimensions, it not unfrequently occurs in a shat- tered form, and in that case is almost useless for building. There are likewise two flagstone quarries open at present, for the produce of which there is a considerable demand ; and limestone, held in much repute, abounds in the west part of the parish. It is fur- nished at the kiln at the rate of 10s. 6d. per chalder of 16 bolls. Produce, — The average gross amount of raw produce yearly lUbed in the parbh, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as fol- lows : Grain of all kinds. Potatoes and turnips, Cultivated hay, . • Meadow bay, Flax, . ... Pasturage of cftttle and sheep, Mines and quarries about, L.,14,8g8 Manufactures.^' About thirty-five years ago, a small cotton ma- nufactory was established here by Mr George Allan. The mill was burned down in 1831, and rebuilt by him on an enlarged scale ; but in 1834, he sold the building to Mr David Watson, Glasgow, who has fitted it up as a spinning power-loom manu&ctory. It is five stories in height with attics. The spinning-machinery, which consists of about 4000 self-acting mule-spindles, was fitted up by Mr Smith of Deanston, on Smith and Orf s patent principle, and is allowed by judges to be equal, if not superior, to any in the kingdom. It is driven by two engines, one of 32, and the other of 12 horse power. The work employs in all 350 hands, who are paid about L.250 per fortnight of wages. The men earn from 10s. to L. 1, 5s.; females from 5s. to Ss. ; and boys and girls from 2s. 6d. to 6s. weekly. The average working time, according^to the Act of Parliament, is sixty- nine hours weekly, or twelve hours L.d600 32S5 1251 540 38 9979 255 716 AYRSHIRE. per day, for five days of the week, and niAe hours for the remain- iDg working day. In 1834 a mill for the spinning of flax was erected by Messrs Wilson and Jamiesons, in the same locality as the power-loom manufactory, which has ever since been in full operation. The machinery is driven by an engine of 16 horse power, and the work employs 150 hands, who receive about L. 130 a fortnight in wages. The][men are paid from 12s. to L. 1, 18s. ; females about 6s. ; and boys and girls from 2s* 6d. to 38. per week. The hours of work- ing at both establishments are the same. On the opposite bank of the river, and at a short distance west of the above manufactories, is an extensive bleachfield belonging to Messrs WiUiam and James Knox. They commenced the bu- siness, at least on its present enlarged scale, in 1829, which they have ever since conducted with great skill, spirit, and success. They are chiefly employed by the thread manufacturers of Beith, and bleach, annually, about 140,000 lbs. of linen thread yarn, be- sides finishing about 1800 lbs. of coloured threads weekly. The number of hands in their employment has averaged, the last three years, from 90 to 100, who receive between L.70 and L.80 per fortnight in wages. The ipen are paid at the rate of from 12s. to L. 1 ; females from 5s. to 7s. 6d. ; and a few boys and girls, 4s. weekly. The hands in this employment work ten hours a-day, or sixty hours per week, and, when working extra time, are paid proportionately. In addition to this extensive business, the Messrs Knox have recently erected in the vicinity of the bleachfield a mill for spinning flax, which, when in full operation, will employ between 60 and 70 hands. A rope-work, commenced a few years ago, deserves likewise to be noticed in this enumeration of the several branches of ma- nufacture lately introduced here. It employs, on an average, 20 spinners, men and boys, the produce of whose labour, consisting of band and common twines, finds in part a market on the spot, but the most of which is sent, we believe, to Paisley for disposal. All these works, besides affording a very fair remuneration and support to those engaged in them, have brought a great deal of money into circulation, increased considerably the value of pro- perty, and benefited not a little the farmer by the proximity of a market for much of his produce, as well as many of the shopkeepers and resident handicraftsmen. There is, however, one class of intelligent operatives, — the hand-loom weavers, of whom there are 6 KILBIRNIE. 717 ■ 160 here, who have been long indifferently paid for their work, and many of whom are occasionally thrown out of employment al«- together. They are engaged on the usual kinds of work furnished by the Glasgow and Paisley manufacturers, and may make when trade is ordinarily brisk, from 11& to 12s. per week, working at the rate of twelve hours per day. At present, many of them work from five in the morning to ten at night, and, with all their exertions, they will not earn above Is. 6d. or Is. 8d. a-day. It is highly ere* ditable to the spirit and principles of the great body of the^e me- chanics, that, amidst all their privations, they maintain a respectable appearance, and that even when stretching their efforts to the ut* most, in order to gain a scanty subsistence for their families, they should rarely, if ever, fail to bestow on their children the elements of an education, equal, at least in essentials, to that generally re- ceived by the off; be has a comfortable dwelling-house and a good garden. The number of families belonging to the Establishment may be stated at 231 ; communicants, 300; families belonging to the Re- formed Presbytery, 60; communicants, 130. The church and chapel are in general well attended. Of the floating population or incomers connected with the factories, there are a few families of Roman Catholics, and several others of no visible religious profes- sion whatsoever. Education. — The parish school, at which there is an average attendance of 60 pupils, is situated in the village. Here are taught, besides the ordinary branches of education, practical ma- thematics, book-keeping, Latin, and Greek. The fees are per annum — English, 10s.; English, with writing, ISs.; these with arithmetic, 14s. ; and for Latin and Greek, 20s. Besides his fees, which may average L.30, the teacher has more than the legal ac- commodation, but the salary is the minimum, being L. 25, 15s. 4d. There are in the village likewise, three private or unendowed schools, at which the t^tal average number of scholars is about 70; but at all of which, the branches of learning taught are confined to English, writing, and arithmetic. Nor in this enumeration of the sources of instruction, should a Sunday-school, under the super- intendence of the Rev. James Ferguson, be unmeutioned. It is well attended, and has been the means of disseminating much re- ligious knowledge among the youth of both sexes. None of the young between six and fifteen years of age, who have been brought up in this parish, are unable to read, and it is believed that, with the exception of a few females, there is not a native above the age of fifteen, who cannot write, or who is ignorant of the first rules of arithmetic. These facts require no com- ment; at least, they illustrate satisfactorily, that the people here are fully alive to the benefits of education, and that the present race of parents have little to reproach themselves with, in this re- spect, in hot fulfilling their duties. Libraries. — A subscription library, established here in 1820, consists now of upwards of 500 volumes. The books have been judiciously chosen, and are chiefly historical works, voyages and travels. The entry and annual subscription money are each 2s. 6d. There is likewise a small select congregational library connected "with the Reformed Presbytery, composed of moral and religious - I 724 AYRSHIRE. works. It is supported by the heads of families, and the books are lent gratis to the young people attending the Sunday-school. Friendly Societies. — A society termed " The Kilbirnie Gar- dener's Society/' having for its object reciprocal support during sickness, was instituted three years ago. It consisU at present of 100 members, and the stock amounts to upwards of I-*. 100, The entry payment is 3$. 6d., and the annual assessment is 6s., paid by regular quarterly instalments, A member must have joined the Society 6ve years, before being entitled to any benefit from the funds ; but after this period, he receives 6s. per week, if bedrid ; 4s., if unable to work, but not confined ; and in the event of death, L. 1 is allowed in defrayment of funeral charges. As this Society is based on principles of acknowledged stability, it is to be hoped it may soon be generally supported. Poor and Parochial Funds* — The average number of regular paupers on the poor's fund, for the last five years, has been 1^ During that time, 36 individuals have annually received oc- casional assistance. The regular poor receive from 5s. to 12s. per month. The average allowance to each person annually, is L. 2, 12s. The sum expended yearly in occasional assistance, is L 33, 6s. 3|d ; regular poor, L. 34, lOs. 6d. The sources of supply are» the fiinds derived from collections at the church door, averaging L.22 ; interest of money, 16s.; rents of church seats, L. 3, 3s. ; proclamation of banns and mortcloth dues, L. 5. The deficiency has hitherto been made up by a voluntary assessment of the heri- tors on the valued rent; but henceforth the real rent is to be as- sessed for this purpose. In the former Statistical Account, it is said, ** there are few poor, and none that go a-begging; the poor^s funds are good, and more than suflBcient for the parish poor ;" — a statement totally inapplicable, with the exception of public beg- ging, to the condition of the poor at the present day. The paro- chial funds, which, at that period, had accumulated to upwards of L. 300, have been long since exhausted, while the contributions of the charitable and^^voluntary assessments have, of late years, proved barely sufficient to meet the wants of the regular ))oor, and the stiil more numerous claimants for occasional assistance. Pauperism has not, however, kept more than a corresponding pace with the population since 1792, or if it has, it would not be diffi- cult to assign its increase to other causes than to any decay of the virtuous feelings of decent pride among those liable by many ca- sualties, exclusive of sickness and old age, to impoverishment. KILBIRNIE. 725 While compulsory assessments are deprecated as fraught with ma- nifold and permanent injuries to the poor and the parishes at large on which they are imposed, it is strange that, notwithstanding this belief, voluntary charity will not exert itself to avert the dreaded evil — thereby showing, that to " feed the hungry, and to clothe the naked,'* is, we are afraid, regarded by many, even in this phi- lanthropic age, more in the light of a hateful imposition, than in that of a sacred duty. But afler all that has been said against this mode of provision, since there must be a tax for such a pur- pose, " I know of none," says an eminent authority, " less subver- sive of industry and morals, than that established in Scotland, obliging the landholders,*' and we would add the bouse proprie- tors, ^' in every parish, to meet at stated times, in order (o pro- vide a fund for the poor ; but leaving the objects of their charity, and the measure, to their own humanity and discretion."* Fairs, — The principal fair in this place is held on the third Wednesday of May, old style, and is attended by a great concourse of people, being the largest horse-market in the west of Scotland. It is vulgarly called Brinnan's day, which is evidently a corruption of Brandane's day. The number of horses exhibited for sale at this fair, has averaged annually, these nine or ten years past, above 700, the aggregate value of which may be estimated between L.8000 and L. 9000. Brinnan's day has likewise been long celebrated for the sale of cooper-work and culinary utensils, such as platters, basins, ladles, &c. and spinning-wheels and reels. A considerable deal of these articles are still sold, though the de- mand for turned work for domestic uses is much lessened from what it was half a century ago, and the wheel and the reel have been all but superseded. Much general business is transacted among the country people at this fair : — rents paid, tradesmen's accounts settled, new articles bespoken ; and until lately, that shops have everywhere been established, many household wants were in a great measure supplied for the year. There used to be other two fairs held in Kilbirnie, the trades- race, on the first Tuesday of July, and Crawfurd's day, on the last Tuesday of October, both old styles. The former has gone down, in despite of the efforts of a few interested publicans to uphold it ; and the other, which was a cow-fair, instituted, it is said, by the Crawfurds of Kilbirnie, has long since ceased to be a cattle-market, or even to be observed as a holiday. * Karnes's Sketches of Civil Society— Sk. x. 726 AYUSHlRfi- Jnns. — There are four inns, where travellers may be comforta- bly enough accommodated, and eleven ale or whisky-houses, in the village, and another at a toll-bar, within a quarter of a mile of it* The latter class of houses might assuredly, for any benefi- cial purposes they serve to promote, be dispensed with altogether. They are in a great measure supported by the hard-working arti- san and labourer, all of whose expenditure in such haunts of thoughtlessness and dissipation, cannot otherwise be regarded than as so much deducted from individual or family comforts. In jus- tice, however, to the character of at least the native population, it may be stated that neither hard-drinking nor sottish tippling, prevails to so great a proportionate extent in Kilbirnie, as in many of the neighbouring towns. FueL — There is, as has been already stated, a coal-pit in the southern extremity of the parish,^ about a mile and a quarter from the village. Besides the common kind of coal^ it furnishes an- other called splint, much in demand for the making of gas, and when the two are used together, they make a quick and cheerful fire. The former costs at the pit 7d., and the other Is. per load; seven and a half of which make an ordinary cart, and ten loads a ton. A considerable quantity of the coals used here arc, however, brought from the parishes of Beith and Dairy, and cost respectively on being laid down in the village,' 7s. 4d. and 79. lOd. per ton. Peats are procured from the high grounds, but are only used in kindling fires, and cost,, including driving, ds. a cart. Miscellaneous Observations. The principal agricultural improvements introduced into the parish within the last forty years may be thus enumerated : — bet- ter parish and turnpike roads,— superior accommodation in farm- buildings, — an improved system of husbandry, based on an exten- sive and skilful style of draining, — and, as a consequence of this, a greater breadth of land under tillage, and much heavier crops raised. To these it may be added, that waste lands have, to some extent, been enclosed and irrigated, and others planted ; that greater facilities are now afforded for the thrashing and disposing of grain and of the produce of the dairy ; and that the breeds of live-stock have been all of late years much improved. These con- stitute the most striking variations betwixt the present state of the parish, and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Account. The great increase of the village since 1792, as well as th^ STEWAETON. 727 causes of its prosperity, has been already adverted to. The nu- meroas advantages of the locality will, probably, from time to time, induce the establishment of other manufactories ; and it is not by any means unlikely, that the progress of Kilbirnie in wealth, popu- lation, and extent, in the lapse of twenty years, may exceed con* siderably all the late advances, striking as these have been. In addition to what may be accomplished on the banks of the Gar- nock, should the projected iron works in the south-east, quarter of the parish succeed, another source of prosperity will be opened, which no one, a few years ago, could have possibly anticipated, — while the railway from Gl^ow to Ayr will confer many commer- cial advantages on this, and on all the districts it traverses. Drawn up February 1840; Revised December 1841. PARISH OF STEWARTON.* PRESBYTERY OF IRVINE, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. CHARLES BANNATYNE STEVEN, MINISTER, L — Topography and Natural History. Name and Boundaries. — The name is evidently formed from the surname Stewart, first used as a family distinction by Walter IL in 1204. The district of Cuninghame, with others in the county, being the property of the Crown, was from time to time vested in the hands of some powerful family, and Stewarton, among others, being created into a separate lordship, became the inheri- tance of James, High Steward, in 1283. In the account of the charters granted by Robert I., H., and III., there is one by Ro- bert III. to John Stewart Earl of Buchan, the Regent's son, and Elizabeth de Douglas, his spouse, daughter to Archibald Earl of Douglas, of the lands of Stewarton, and Armsheugh, and Dunlop, in Cuninghame, on the resignation of the Earl of Douglas. This parish is situated in the district of Cuninghame, and is bounded by the parishes of Neilston and Mearns in Renfrew- shire on the north-east; Fenwick, on the east and south-east; * Drawn up by Mr Duncan Macfarlane, Schoolmaster. 728 AYRSHIRE. Dreghorn, on the south ; Irvine and Kilwinning, on the west ; and Dunlop, on -the north-west and north. Its greatest length is nearly ten miles from east to west ; its breadth from south to north varies from four to three miles : it contains about twenty square miles. Topographical Appearances.^^The surface of the parish is beau* tifuUy diversified with fine sloping grounds and gentle eminences, and gradually rises from south-west to north-east, till it ends in the boundary line with Renfrewshire, where the lands are of some height, and diversified with hills; from several of which, many ex- tensive views gratify the admirer of the wonders and beauties of nature. The eye comprehends, in one sweep of the horizon, Ben- lomond, on the north ; Jura, Arran, Ailsa, and faintly in the dis- tance Ireland, on the west ; the Mull of Galloway, the boundary hills of Kirkcudbright, and Dumfries-shire^ on the south. North- east winds prevail in the west of Scotland 104 days, north-west 40, south-east 47, and south-west 174. Westerly winds prevail during July and August, north-east during January, March, May, and June, north-west from November till March, the north-east less frequent during February, July, September, and December, and the north-west during September and October, than in other months. Hydrography. — The parish possesses one mineral spring of little celebrity as yet, called Bloak Well, first discovered, nearly thirty years ago, by pigeons resorting to it from the neighbouring parishes. A neat and handsome house is built over it by the proprietor, Mr Cuninghame of Lainsbaw. This was done in 1833, when heap- pointed a keeper to take care of it^ The parish is watered throughout its whole extent by streams of considerable size, the Annock, the Swinsey, and the Corsehill and East Burns, and the Glazart. The whole of these streams, with the exception of the Glazart, unite with the Annock at the town of Stewarton. The Glazart joins the Annock at Water- meetings, four miles below. The Annock flows from the White Loch, in Mearns parish, six miles east of Stewarton. Some of them run in not ver}' deep channels. Geology. — Whinstone is the mineral chiefly met with, and is found mostly above the town, and towards Renfrewshire on the north and east. Freestone adapted to building is abundant. Lime-> stone abounds on the east of the town, and lies near the surface, STEWAHTONi 729 which is level and easily wrought It is raised and burned in com* moD draw^kilns on the estate of Lochridge, and on the lands of Cutstraw, Corsehills, Clerkland, and Lintbrae. Coal is found in very thin strata, and is used on the spot for burmng limestone. Seams of coal have not yet been found so thick as to be wrought by itself, though attempts for that purpose have been made very lately, by three proprietors, which have been attended ^ith con* siderabl'e expense to one of the contractors, and disappointment to the public. Peat for fuel is found in great abundance at each end of the parish. Wood. — Though our forests have disappeared, the present nu- merous residing proprietors are endeavouring to restore them in the form of plantations, particularly in the lower part of the parish. Firs of every sort and forest timber have been planted, wliich ap- pear to be most congenial to the soil and climate, and thereby the lands have a cheerful, sheltered, and improved aspect There is one 6ne arbor*vitae, a fig-tree, and a cedar of Lebanon in the gar- den of Lainshaw, each of long standing. II. — Civil History. Eminent Characters. — David Dale was the son of a gro- cer, and born, in January 1739, in a two storey thatched-house at the Cross of'Stewarton, which still remains in much the same state as when occupied by his' father ; he was educated only in the then common elementary branches. After learning weaving in Paisley, he left it for Hamilton, and afterwards remov- ed to Gla«igow, where he carried on business in the linen yarn trade for many years. He afterwards, with others, erected mills for spinning cotton at Lanark and Catrine. The directors of the Royal Bank employed him as their agent in Glasgow, of which city he was one of the magistrates, and whereat the same time he offi- ciated as a preacher of an Independent Church. His charity was extensive, and there are individuals living here who still partake of his bounty, though he died in March 1806, leaving it is said, L. 100,000 and upwards. Mr Owen, the founder of Socialism, is his son-in-law, propagating doctrines which would have vexed the heart of his upright good old father-in-law. John Blackwood, late kirk-officer, and another upright in- dividual, desen'es notice, as he at the same time was agent for the Union Bank of Paisley for several years at the end of last century. His character was so well established for accuracy and integrity, that no security was required of him by the bank ; this 730 AYRSHIRE. was at the recommendation of his relation and friend^ Mr Dale, referred to above. John Blackwood died in 1830, the anniversary of the ninetieth year of his age. The next individual entitled to particular remark, is Dr Ro- bert Watty compiler of the *< Bibliotheca Britannica," a work, in the opinion of Dr Dibdin, ** the most extraordinary of the kind in the literature of Europe.'' His life is given in Chambers's Scottish Biographical Dictionary, and what follows may be looked on only as a supplement to it. He was born on 1st May 1774. The name of the farm in the parish record is Bonnyton, not Muir* head, now Girgenti, so named by its present proprietor, John Cheape, representative of the Cheapes of Sauchie, Stirlingshire. The account of him inserted in the '^ Life" above alluded to, closes when his studies in the Latin and Greek languages commenced with the writer of this account in October or November 1792 ; and he was then about eighteen years old. It was only one hour's private attendance in the morning that he could spare, as he had his occupation of carpenter to attend to, through the rest of the day. Notwithstanding, such progress did he make in both lan- guages, that he entered the Latin and Greek classes of Glasgow University in 1 793, and obtained a prize in the Greek class from Professor Young. In 1794, he attended the Greek and Logic classes also at Glasgow; and in 1795-96, the Moral and Natural philosophy classes at Edinburgh. During the summer 1796, be taught a private school in Kilmaurs parish, when he became an ad- mirer of the late Rev. Mr John Russell of Kilmarnock, the *' Rum- ble John" of Burns. He then resolved to study divinity, and, in order to have two strings to his bow, also anatomy at Edinburgh, which he did in 1796-97. An essay on Regeneration was pre- scribed, for which L. 10 were to be given, and which he obtained. Professor Hunter, on delivery of the prize, was pleased to re- mark, *' that it was not only the best essay, but the first time, under him, that a student of the first year's standing, attempted and suc- ceeded so well and so deservedly.'^ In 1797-98, he spent one year in Symington as parochial schoolmaster, and merely enrolled his name as a student of divinity in Edinburgh, when an essay on Prayer was announced by Professor Hunter, for which a prize of L.8 was to be given, and which he also obtained. During his residence at Symington, the Rev. Mr Logan, minister of the parish, induced him, for reasons unnecessary to state here, to give up the study of divinity, and finish his medical studies, which he did in Glasgow in STBWARTON. 73 1 1798-99. I have thought proper to be thus particular in the detail of the studies of one who was an honour and ornament to his country, and cut off early in life; he died in 1819. He was dis- tantly related to the two persons noticed above. The writer may be allowed to mention another native of the parish, William Deans, late writer here, whose public spirit was such, that he in part accomplished, within the last thirty years, what Mr Dale originaHy intended on Che banks of his native Annock, before he carried his cotton-spinning to the Clyde. The agent of the superior here, when consulted on the subject, dis- suaded the proprietor, on the ground not only of increasing the population, but, above all, pauperism, by the erection of public works. The wool and worsted mills at Robertland were erected by him and others. He was the originator, and for some time, a partner of the largest carpet-work in this place. The suburb originally called Templehouse, and now commonly called Darling- ton, was feued out by him. He was remarkable for his liberality, hospitality, and intelligence. At times he would amuse himself, after the dry labours of his profession, with composing essays on general subjects, and verses, not a few of which did him the highest honour. It is in ihe knowledge of the writer, who was the channel of communication, that for a manuscript collection of poems, he was offered in 1810 a price by the late Mr Constable, who would have taken chance of the sale of the volume. The subjoined verses* * *' At the dread hour of night. By the dim taper*s light, Vf here death's pangs were smarting, And fond hearts were parting, I hare sat by the nearest, And wept with the dearest. I have heard the last prayer or the loTcIy and young ; But few friends were there ; And their fond hearts were wrung. The wife of my bosom, A sweet lovely blossom ; She lay panting for breath In the cold sweet of death. ^ Now she's slept her last sleep ; She has gone^-che has gone,*- 8he hath left mc to weep- All alone— all alone. And now gone are the joys Of our lonely retreat ; For still mute is her voioe. And still erfipty her seat ; , On her motherless child Fast asleep on my knee. I gaac," Ac. 732 AYItSHIRE. were written od the loss of his first wife : He died in the forty- ninth year of his age, 81st July 1828. AmoD^ the eminent natives of the parish may be properly includ* ed, James Gillies, Esq. M. D. long a successful medical practition- er in Bath, and one of his Majesty's physicians for Scotland. He died in 1826-7 : also the Rev. John Brown of Clerkhill, preacher, author of Sermons and Prayers, posthumous works in two volumes, not printed for publication, besides numerous manuscripts on theo- logical and literary subjects; — he died in 1833^ aged thirty-nine years. John Gilmour, son of James Gilmour of Clerkland, who died in 1828, at the age of eighteen, was the author of a volume of ^^ Poetical Remains," printed after his death.-f* The people of this parish generally are intelligent, generous, hospitable, and, upon the whole, of a religious character. Landowners* — The number of landowners, mostly resident, is eighty-three. They are as follows. Those properties marked thus * have been retained by the same families without entail, and with one exception, (Corsehill) to the same extent, since the year 1686 at least. William Cuningbame, Esq. of Lainshaw John Ferguson. Esq. of Wbitelee, N. Alexander Kerr, Esq. of Robertland * Andrew Brown, Esq. of Gabroehhill, N. C. S. M'Alister, Esq. of Kennox. David Walker of Goteside, N. * Sir A. D. M. Cuningfaame, Bart, of Tbomas Wallace of Blacklaw,Wester,N.* Corsebill, &o., K. Alexander Ferguson of Aucbintiber J. Dunlop, Esq. of Dunlop^ now Sir James James Wylie of Gallowberry Duntop of Dunlop, Bart., N. beirto Alexander Wy lie of Aucbintiber, K. Sir John J. W. and D. Currie of Lintbrae and David Provan, Esq. of Lochridge Overhill, N. Andrew Brown, Esq. of Hillhouse John Caskie, Esq. of Little Corsehill, N. J. Donaldson, Esq. of Williamshaw, N. 'John Stewart, Esq. of Gabrocbbill, N. General Sir J. S. Barnes of Kirkbilly N. Alexander Kiiox of Meikle Cutstraw John Deans of Peacockbank James, John and Robert Lindsay of R. R. Glasgow, Esq. of Montgreenan, N. Auchintiber W. Pollock, Esq., M. D., of Barnahill, N. James Gilmour of Clerkland James Wilson of Chapelton Andrew Foulds of Clerkland, &c C. S. Buchanan. Esq. of FairlieCrivoch,N. John Cheape, Esq. of Girgenti Thomas Deans of Uraffan, Ac. John Frceland, Esq. of Corsehouse, N. David and James Dalziel of Merryhill John Stevenson of llairsbaw Alexander Keid of BoUingshaw John Stevenson of Whitelee William Mackie of Meikle Corsehill, &c Andrew Stevenson of Hairshaw, N. James S. Burns of Auchinharvie, N. Eight Hon. the Earl of Glasgow, of Mary Reid of Stacklawhill, N. Crivochuiill or Serogmill, N. ^ Andrew Gemmel of Rashelhouse, N. Arthur Alison of Hairshaw John Alexander of Meikle Corsehill Rev. W. Carswell of Meikie Corsehill, N. Allan Pollock of Blacklaw, N. Robert Mackie of Foggy hillock John Brown of Blacklaw A. Ferguson, Esq. M. D., of Fullwood •f Among dtstinguisbed natives of the pariah now living, may be mentioned James Miller, now tenant in Wardhead, who was the maker of a reaping-machine on im- proved principles ; David Craig of Craigton, the inventor of some improvements on the thrashing' machine; Alexander Heid of BoUingshaw, who received several pre- raiuras for the invention of various agricultural implements. STEWAKTON. 733 John Wylie of Mosside James Young of Cutstrav, Heirs of James Wilson of Spott, &c. N. John C uthbertson of Strandhead Robert Duncan of Aochintiher, N. Agnes Creighton and Sisters, of Holm Right Hon. Lady Mary Montgomery, John Caskie of Bridgend of Xx>cbmill, N. John Dunlop of Watermeetings John Ferguson* of Auchintiber Robert Miller, Esq. of Braehead John SIccoch of Corsehill-mill, &c. John Bicket of Kirkford James Miller of Gallovayford, N. Robert Raeburn of do. John Diskie of Whitelee John Kerr, of do. Messrs Pollock and Gilmour of Hair- Thomas Brown, Strandhead, Portioner shaw, N. James and David Logan of Corsebillmill Rev. W. Sheriff, Heirs of, Cutstraw, N. Henry Dunlop, Portioner Robert Lindsay of Little Cutstraw, N. Hugh Montgomery, do. Margaret and lsal)el King, of Cutstraw Mrs John Sheddan, do. N. Charles Skeoch of Kirkford, R. N. William Dunlop, Portioner •Robert Stewart of Gabrochhill Janet and Mary Wylie, do. John Gilmour of Bogside, &c. Mrs Sanderson, do. Mrs Dr John Ritchie, of Castlesalt, N. Mi's Robert Logan, do. Robert Brown, Esq. of Standalane, N. N.B. — The letter N denotes non-residence. Parochial Registers. — The registers of baptism and marriages have been preserved since 1693, though the first were not re- gularly kept till 1747, nor the second till 1794. The burials have been regularly recorded since May 1745. There is no dis- tinction of the sexes of children under twelve years. The minutes of session from 1757 to 1776, and from 1810 to the present time, are in good preservation. The minutes of heritors have been regu- larly kept since February 1774, Very few of the Dissenters re- gister; and great are the inconveniences often felt from this omis- sion. Historical Notices, — Godfridus de Ross, Miles, son and heir of Sir Godfrede de Ross, Knight, confirms the land in Stewarton, which the abbacy of Pasley got from Sir James Ross in 1281. The representative of the family of Ross, now the Earl of Glas- gow, has, inter alia^ the title of Lord Boyle of Stewarton, and at this date, January 1842, has now only about twelve acres in the parish, formerly called Crivochmill, but now commonly called Scrogmill, where was, till lately, a meal-mill, now converted to a wool-spinnin^-mill. The ruins,* nearly levelled by the hand of time, of the Castle of Robertland, formerly the stronghold of the Cuninghames, Baronets of Robertland, are situated behind the modern mansion of Alexan- der Kerr, Esq. of Robertland. This stronghold, it is said, was de^ stroyed by fire, in a feud between the Montgomeries of Eglinton and the Cuninghames; in revenge for which, one of the Cuning- hames shot the chief of the Eglintons, while riding home, near to Bridgend, at the east end of the town of Stewarton, where a path is still shown, called the *' Weeping Path," along which he rode. 734 AfRSHlRB. until he came to the ford of the Annock, at Bridgend, where he fell dead off his horse. This took place on the 12th April 1586, in the person of Hugh, fourth Earl of Eglinton. Antiquities, — The only antiquities worth mentioning, are the remains of two castles, once the seats of the Cuuinghames of Corsehill and Auchenharvie, branches of the Cuninghames^ Lords of Kitmaurs, by far the roost powerful family in the dis- trict. The first-named has been lately celebrated by Gabriel Alexander, Esq. Advocate, the author of " My Grandfather's Farm," who is a native of this pansh, aid now resides in Londoo. Tbe crilics of the day were pleased to ascribe the poem to Miss Mitford. About thirty years ago, while Mr Deans of Peacock* bank was rooting out some trees in a small plantation, on Carnduff Brae, on his property, he discovered three urns containing human bones. The urns were covered with a great quantity of stones, forming, it is conjectured, one of those cairns, in which tbe an- cient inhabitants of this country buried their dead. Modem Buildings, — The most worthy of notice are those of Mr Cuninghame of Lainshaw, Mr Kerr of Robertland, Col. S. M^Alister of Kennox, and Captain Cheape of Girgenti. This last is built in rather an uncommon style. 111. — Population. No documents exist here by which to form any estimate of the population, before Dr Webster's report in 1755, which gave - 2819 Hy the last Statistical Account, 1793, - 9000 In 1801, ... • 2657 1811, . . . . 8049 1821, - . . 9656 1881, .... 4503 1841, - - 4654 Population in 1841. Houses. Families. Males. Females. In the country part of the parish, 299 . 344 940 • 973 lu Darlington or Deauston, 33 . 98 206 219 In the new parish, ^ttoad jacra, 151 342 625 771 In the remainder of tbe town, % 84 . 201 442 478 Totals, 567 085 2213 2441 There is now only one village, and it is called Bloak, where there are about twelve families. Hard by, is the Mineral Well before noticed. IV. — Industry. Agrictdture and Rural Economy, — Owing to the humidity of the climate, and the little sunshine in summer, little wheat is raised in the parish, except hy Mr Cuninghame of Lainshaw, who culti- vates it to a considerable extent. Green cropping is carried on to some extent, especially in potatoes. The culture of turnip, which STEWABTON. 735 is found to be of great advantage for the dairy stock, is increasing yearly. A great part of the lands, especially in the upper part of the parish, being loose and friable, is well suited for raising green crops, particularly potatoes for seed* There are few parishes in Scotland better adapted for dairy husbandry than this. Drainiog* has been, for several years past, very common, and is now become general. Generally two-thirds or three* fourths of the farms are kept in grass, and the remainder cropped with two or three white crops, mostly oats, and laid down in grass, which is cut for rye* grass-hay, the year following.the grain crop, and then allowed to remain in grass for five or eight years. The soil is so good, that, if allowed to lie in grass for any length of time, it becomes richer, or " in better heart," as the farmers term it, and does not grow wild, like poor soils. Were the land better cleaned, and sown down with good grass, it would gr^ze more cattle, and materially benefit the dairy. There is a considerable want of shelter in the upper part of the parish, which, if judiciously planted in belts and clumps, would benefit the soil considerably, and increase its pro- ductiveness. The farms have been suitably subdivided and well en- closed since the beginning of this century. The quantity of land under cultivation and otherwise is understood to be nearly as follows : — In tillage, about « - 2000 Scotch acres. CtilUYated grass lands, - • • 5500 Natural pasture, - - 1000 Moss land, ... 1500 Woods, gardens, and roads,* . - 150 Runt of Land. — Arable land rents from L. 1 to L.3, 10s. per acre ; average L. 2. Th6 rent of grazing a milch cow is about L. 4, 10s., or L. 5. In many instances, one Scotch acre grazes one cow. Gleuouther or Hairshaw moor, extending to 600 acres, is now in common between two heritors. 600 or more acres of the same kind lie contiguous in the parishes of Mearns and Fenwick, where sportsmen from neighbouring quarters congregate on the 12th of August. . From its elevated situation, it might be greatly improved by draining, and were it properly sheltered, it would be good moor pasture, and in some instances might be profitably cropped. Higher lands in the neighbouring parish of Mearns yield good pasture, and are also often cropped. Enclosing with stone and lime costs L. 1, lOs. per rood. Few dry-stone fences are used here. Hedge fences are very com- * There are 45 stone Uridges besides several wooden ones, all kept in good repair. 2G1 294 2095 2227 270 690 474 441 • 736 AYKSHIRE. mon, at lOd. per fall ; drain cutting, dd. a fall, twenty*six inches deep ; cutting and filling up with tile or stone) 4^. per fall. Ave- rage of masons' wages in summer, Ids. to 20s. ; in winter, 14s. to 168. Carpenters' wages in summer, Ids. to 16s.; in winter, 13s. A good milch cow's price, L. 10, L 12, L. 15, up to L.20. A good horse for the plough, L. 30, L, 35, L. 40 ; for the saddle, L. 25, L. 30^ L. 35. Breed and Quantity/ of Live-S^ocA.— Milch cows of the Ayr- shire breed form the chief class of the cattle. The account of the stock, as described below, wastuken several years ago. The stock of milch cows and sheep have greatly increased since, owing to the ready sale and comparatively high prices obtained for dairy produce. 1820. 1840. Horses of all descriptions, ' Cattle or cows, do. Sheepi • • Swine, Husbandry* — The lands being in the natural possession of con- siderably more than the majority of the heritors, the farm-buildings and enclosures, as already stated, are good. Leasea vary as to endurance, according to the pleasure of the parties. Improvements. — By far the best system of cultivation practised here, was introduced and is still carried on by Mr Cuninghame of Lainshaw, the largest heritor, whose property extends to 2600 acres and upwards. He retains in his own hands nearly 300 acres under the best management, equal to the best cultivated spots in England. This gentleman is well known as a writer on the sub* ject of our Saviour's personal Reign, Sacred Chronology, &c. JfawM/acfttrw.— There are about 300 weavers employed in cotton and silk fabrics, and not a few in customary work, such as shirtings, sheetings, tablecloths, towelling, blankets, druggets, &c. &c. The manufacture most famed is that of bonnets, and it is of a very long standing. Almost the whole regimental and naval bonnets and caps are made here, as well as those worn by the people in the country at large. Upwards of fifty families, besides a very great number of boys and girls, are thus em* ployed. Their deacon was styled, " Princeps Pileorum Arti" fex Scot ice" Steel clockwork is peculiar to this place, and is in great demand, not only in Britain but in America. There is a * No calf, foal, pig, nor lanab included in the enumeration of 1840. 6 STEWARTON. 737 large maDufacture of spindles for cotton and woollen mills. There have been introduced ntiils for carding wool and tow, and also for wanking or fulling of bonnets, besides machinery for spinning wool and worsted. It is supposed that these works and the carpet-works, of which there are only two nt present, might be still further ex- tended. The most of the trades' people hare have gardens at- tached to their houses, in which they cultivate vegetables, fruits, and flowers ; which circumstance lately gave rise to a Horticultural and Florists' Society. They generally rent small pieces of ground for the purpose of growing as many potatoes as serve their families during the year. These habits are very conducive to health, and yield both recreation and profit. A tile and brick-work was erect- ed in the spring of 1839 by Mr Deans, on his property of Peacock- bank, which affords employment to a number of people, and con- siderable facility to the farmers in the neighbourhood, in draining and improving their farms. It is in the centre of the parish, and the quantity of tiles made in one year is supposed to exceed 500,000. V. — Parochial Economy. 7(nm, and Means of Communication. — The town of Stewarton is situate in the centre of the parish, on the banks of the Annock, about six miles north from Kilmarnock, and eight north-east from Irvine. About 150 years ago, it consisted of a few houses near the church, which gradually extended to the cross; and now it is three-quarters of a mile in length, with several streets intersecting one another. There are not a few handsome buildings, and a town-house. The land around is fertile. Tradesmen and labour- ers of almost every description get employment, and abundance of every kind of provisions is supplied. The roads are kept in the best pos^sible order. Caravans go daily to Kilmarnock ; twice-a- week to Paisley, distant fifteen miles ; also twice-a-week to Glas- gow, distant eighteen miles. The weekly market is held on Thursday, but now little attended. The post from Kilmarnock arrives in the morning, daily, and returns in the evening. There are stated fairs. A Justice of Peace Court is held here once a month. A Baron-bailie is appointed by the superior ; he has of- ficials under him ; and there is a jail to confine delinquents. As yet there is no police. Gas was introduced in 1832, at an expense of about L. 1200. A printing-press for bills, &c. has been in operation since 1835. Ecchsiaatical State. — For the convenience of the whole parish, the parish church could not be better situate. It was widened on the AYR. 3 A 738 AYRSHIRE. north side in 181^5, and now accommodates 1800 sitters, including two aisles belonging to Mr Cuninghame of Lainshaw, the patron, and Sir A. D. M. Cuninghame of Corsehill, Bart, which contain nearly 300 sitters. It is any thing but neat and comfortable, though kept in repair, and well lighted with gas. The glebe consists of four acres Scotch, and is worth about L.12 a-year. The stipend was augmented in 1835, and is eighteen chalders, half-meal, half- barley, with L. 15 for communion elements. Average amount for the last five years, L. 280. The unexhausted teinds amount to L.291 at least, as stated in the third report of the Commission- ers for Religious Instruction. The congregation here of the As- sociate Synod of original Seceders lately united itself with the Church of Scotland, and has since built a new church containing accomnK>dation for 800 sitters. It has a handsome spire, 80 feet in height ; which, as it is situated near the centre of the town, on rising ground, forms an object of attraction and ornament to the town. A missionary has in the meantime been appointed by the Presbytery of Irvine, but has not been ordained to the chaise, in consequence of a process raised before the Court of Session against the Presbytery for making a quoad $acra division of the parish, and for allowing the minister of this congregation a seat and a vote in the Presbytery. The United Secession congregation pay their minister L.100 a-year ; besides, he has a house and a small garden. This church was built in 1775, and holds 510 sitters. A congregational church has been in existence since February 1827, and holds about 400 sitters. The two last named Congre- gations support their own poor, besides contributing lilierally to other religious purposes. The number of individuals belonging to the respective places of worship will be seen from the followii^ abstract laid before the Commissioners for Religious Instruction, in November 1836: Population of the town and pafi&h, • 4712 of all the Dissenters, 867 of no denomination known, 167—1004 of the EsUblishment, . S706 Communicants. — Relief, 4 ; Reformed Presbytery, * 5 ; Pa- pists, 13; Church of England, 2; Methodists, 2; United Seces- sion Church, 213; Original Burghers, now of the Establishment, 76 ; Congrcgationalists, 48. Total communicants of Dissenters, • 963 Established Church commtinicanti^ 1816 STBWARTON. 739 It is proper to add, that a number of individuals from the sur« ronndiog paashes attend the four congregations named above. The church belongiog to the Associate congregation was taken possession of by a great majority of its members, when they join- ed the Church of Scotland ; but upon a summons of declarator in March 1841, at the instance of a very few members of the said congregation, who would not unite with the Church of Scotland, the majority were induced, rather than run the risk of a law-suit, to give up the church. It is now, therefore, unoccupied. It was built in 1828. The foundation-stone of John Knox's Church, built by the late members of the Associate congregation, was laid by Mr Collins of Glasgow, 10th September 1841. The four congregations here have each libraries superintended by their respective ministers. Education. — There is but one parochial school in the parish. The schoolmaster, elected on the dd January 1788, has had an as- sistant since May 1837. Besides the ordinary branches, Latin, Greek, French, geography, mathematics, theoretical and practical, &c. are taught. His salary is the maximum, with the legal allow- ance for a garden. The wages are, for reading English per quarter, 2s. 6d. ; for do. and writing, ds. ; for do. and arithmetic, Latin, &c« &c ds. The sum of fe^s received does not amount to L. 30; all given to the assistant, who teaches gratis ten poor chil- dren recommended by a majority of the session, on account of a mortification of L.5 per annum, left by the late Mr William Smith of Cutstraw. There are at present four private schools in town, and three in the country part of the parish. There is no library belonging to any of the schools. Library* — There is a library, commenced in 1810, consisting of an excellent collection and selection of books on all subjects, besides some of the leading periodicals of the day. There is also a reading-room in town, not attached to the library. Friendly Societies, — There are a number of these in town. They give liberally to the sick and indigent, and are understood to pros- per. There is alsp a savings bank. Bank. — Branches of the Union Bank of Glasgow, since the be- ginning of 1836, and of Messrs Hunters and Co. of Ayr, since 1841, have been established here. Poor and Parochial Funds. — That spirit of independence, which formerly characterized the people of Scotland, is rapidly disappear- 740 AYRSHIRB. iug amoDg the lower classes, and ideas geoerally preyail, that the wealthy are bound to support the poorer classes, from wbateTer cause this poverty may arise. For some years prior to 1839, the collections at the church averaged L.100, and the assessment on the heritors above L. 200, a year* Number of Permanent Poor — OccasionaL Collectivnt. AssessmeDta. YoluDtary Con- In 8186, 80 18 L.147 8 10 tributions, Mor- 1836, 60 24 185 10 2 tification, Hort- 1887, 80 17 200 7 6 eloth, and other sessional Funds Average, 80; of all< elaaaea, 121 L.100 10 2 177 18 10 L.48 18 10 Diatribu- Total Amount Higbeat Lowest tion distributed. rate to rate to In ia<)5, L.dl8 1 8 L.d 18 6 Permanent Psrmanetit 1886, 829 19 4 9 18 6 Paupers. Paupers. 1837, 848 8 4 15 5 A^wage, 882 8 1 9 9 L.d4a 12 I U5 8 L.l 4 Inns. — The number of inns in town is 3 ; of taveros, 17. Fuel. — Coals form the chief article of fuel, and are expensive. They are brought from Kilmaurs, Kilmarnock, or Irvine pits, and cost 7s. for four loads, weighing 16 cwt The nearest pit is five miles distant. Miscellaneous Observations. Near the farm-house of lx)w Chapelton, above a mile below Stewarton, on the right bank of the Annock, there appears to have once been a chapel, the ruins of which were lately dug up, when the proprietor was engaged in planting trees. There are now no records remaining of this place of worship. There are several farms in the neighbourhood called Chapelton, which are under- stood to have derived their name from this place. Of the three founders of the Maitland Club of Gla^ow in 1828, only one survives, (John Kerr, Esq. writer, Glasgow,) and he is a native of this parish. Drawn up April 1840. Revised January 1842. PARISH OF TORBOLTON. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. DAVID RITCHIE;, A. M., MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Etymology. — Torbolton or Tarbolton, also in charters written Thorbolf on, the name both of the parish and village, appears de- scriptive of the situation of the village, and of the use to which the beautiful round hill, close to which the village is built, was anciently applied. Tor means a round hill, on which Thor was worshipped. It has also a more general signification, and denotes any round hill, as is ordinarily the import of the word when ap« plied to places in Britain. Tor or Thor of the Goths is the same God, whose name receiving a different pronunciation from the Celts, forms the first syllable of the names of many celebrated persons and places, as Tar^uiny Tar^entum^ Tar-tary* Tor, or more correctly 7%or, is the Saxon, Tar, the Celtic pronuncii^ tion of a word descriptive of the most remarkable and beautiful object in the neighbourhood, the hill mentioned by Bums in his poem of Dr Hornbook — ** I had gaen round about the hill." Bol is the name of the god of the Druids, t Some super- stitious rites, anciently observed in honour of this eastern god, are annually {lerformed on the hill. On the evening preceding the Torbolton June fair, a piece of fuel is demanded at each house, and is invariably given even by the poorest inhabitant The fuel so collected is carried to a particular part of the hill, where there is an altar or circular fire-place of turf, about three * The Thor of Uie Ce]to-Sc3fthian8 of Germany was the Tar-anU of Uieir neigh- bours of the south. In the ancient Unguage of the Soots, both the names of this diTinity are retaiued to this day. Maqjherson's Dissertations, page 341. See also Histoire de Dannemarc par Mallet, Tom. 11 p. 88. t The name of this Pagan diTinity is pronounoed in the Oaelie Bal, Bel; or Bol indifferently. It is Bol on the ancient eoin in the possession of the Earl of Morton, of which an engraving is given in the Phil. Trans. VoL Ivii Part I. page 267. In the Palmyrine Inscriptions it is Bol, soasetimes Bl ; and so becomes Bm, or Bel, or Bol, according to the vowel which is supplied. See Swinton on the Palmyrine In- scriptions, Phil. Trans. Vol. xlviii. Pftrt 11. page 7SS— and D|iwk, Mar. Pahoyren. 742 ATRSHIRE. feet in height, and is placed upon the altar. A huge bonfire is kindled, and many of the inhabitants, old and young, men and women, assemble on the hill and remain for hours, apparently chiefly occupied with observing a feat performed by the youths, who are to be seen leaping with indefatigable zeal upon the altar or turf wall, inclosing the ashes of former fires, and supporting the present one. It appears from sacred Scripture, that the worship of Baal consisted in part of leaping upon his altar ; ^ And they leaped upon the altar which was made." (1 Kings, xviii. 26). Though our translators, following, as regards pronunciation, the guidance of what is now well known to have been a comparatively recent contrivance, the Rabbinical or Masoretic points, have writ ten the name of the false god so worshipped Baal, yet the name given to him in the original is Bol. So that Tar or Tor, or ITun^ BoUtan or town, is the town at Baal's hill, t. e. the town at the hill where Baal was worshipped.* Topographical Appearance. — The parish is characterized by its undulatory appearance ; the waves or ridges rarely reaching an elevation of 400 feet above the level of the sea, and being all un- der culture, except where covered with trees. The parish contains scenes of much natural beauty, particularly on the richly wooded banks of the winding Ayr. From some of the elevations, popit- larly called hills, the prospect is extremely interesting, from its variety, and richness, and extent, comprising the entire course of the Ayr from its source to its mouth — the great valley of Ayrshire, which stretches from the Doon to Ardrossan, a distance of nearly twenty miles. At a greater distance, there are the Cumnock hills, the Carrick hills, the Frith of Clyde, Ailsa, the Argyleshire hills, and the Kilbirnie hills. More remote still, in favourable states of the atmosphere, may be seen Cairnsmuir, in Galloway, the pro^ montory of Fair-head, in county Antrim, Benlomond, and Beu More ; and, surpassing all these in loveliness and grandeur, Arran, to which Ayrshire scenery is in no small degree indebted for the impression which it never fails to make on the traveller. Bowidaries^ Sfc — The parish is of irregular shape, and is bounded on the north, by the parish of Craigie ; on the east, by Mauchline ; on the south, by Stair; and on the west, by St Quivox and Monkton. The village is six miles, and the western boundary of the pa- rish three and a-half miles, from the sea-coast. The extreme length of the parish is seven miles ; its greatest breadth fouc. TOUBOLTON. 743 Towards the south-western extremity, the breadth is about half a- mile. The super6cial extent is about 12|500 imperial acres.* Hydrography. — The river Ayr forms the southern boundary of the parish for an extent (taking its meanderings into the account) of about ten miles. It is chiefly remarkable, as compared with the other rivers of Scotland, for its dark colour, which it derives from two sources — the alluvial noatter which is carried along by it, and the dark colour of the strata composing its channel and banks. There has been a very considerable loss of life in the Ayr, owing to the darkness of its waters, concealing from the view of persons who had ventured into it, deep places, with wliich the river abounds, termed in the provincial dialect '* Weels," almost every '^ weel" bearing the name of some person who has perished in it. Several streams rise in the pari&h. I'he only one requiring notice is the ^* Fail," which rises in Lochlee, and after passing the monastery of Fail, and flowing through Fail Loch and Torbolton Loch, enters the pleasure-grounds connected with Coilsfield House, and dis- charges itself into the Ayr, at a place which has recently received the name of Failford. The parish abounds with springs. On the suounit of Torcorse^hill, one of the highest spots in the parish, there is a pond, which continues filled with water at all seasons. Three plains, flooded during the winter months to feed three small mills, are dignified with the name of lochs, and are called Lochlee, Fail Lochs and Torbolton Loch. About two years ago the Duke of Portland, with that enlightened liberality which cha« racterizes him, relieved his tenantry from their thirlage to Millburn Mill, and allowed them to carry their corn to that mill or to any other. The consequence is, that the Millburn mill-wheel has be* come silent, and Lochlee Loch is being converted into arable ground. It is hoped that a similar fate awaits the other two lochs and mills. It is to be regretted that agricultural improvement should be materially impeded, and a large expanse of deep loam kept in a state of morass to supply with water those small mills, which, without injury to any party, could be placed lower down the Fail, or on the Ayr, where there is abundant water-power. Geology. — The parish of Torbolton is occupied by three for- mations — red sandstone older than the coal, the coal, and the trap. * In a work dim'mgui&hed for its general accuracy, <* Alton's Survey of AyrBbirc," there is a considerable error in regard to the extent of Torbolton parishy which i& sUted (p. 716) to contain 22,000 Scotch acres. 744 AYRSHIRE* Red Sandstone older than the Coal. — EDteriug Ayrshire from the north by the coast road» the strata are composed of old red sand- 8toD6, aiid are to be seen at Ardrossan, dipping under the coal measures. Towards the southern limit of the county, a short way beyond Dalmellington, we have the red sandstone resting on the graywacke, and supporting the coal measures. In the centre of the county, the red sandstone developes itself extensively, occu- pying the eastern portion of Torbolton parish, and part of the pa- xMies of Craigie, Mauchline, Stair, Sorn, and Auchinleck. It is this rock which forms the bright red cliffs which add so much to the picturesque beauty of the scenery at Auchinleck on the Lugar, and of Coilhome wood and Barskimmiug on the banks of the Ayr. The age and position of the sandstone relatively to the coal, seem deserving of attention, because of the extent occupied by this deposit, and because the expectation has been entertained by some that, by penetrs^ing through it, coal may be found. It has great uniformity of appearance, and has a thickness of upwards of 100 feet in many places, as at the localities on the Ayr and Lugar already named. On the south bank of the Ayr, at a place csdled Clune dam, the red sandstone has a thickness of only a few .feet, and here the strata with which it is assodated become visible. There are, !• Stratified trap. No. 2. Grey sandstone somewhat indurated. No. 3. Dark red slaty argillaceous sandstone. No. 4. Soft, loosely aggregated, red sandstone. Na 5. Soft, loosely aggregated, red aandstooe. This is a very beautiful rock, being chiefly composed ofminute translucent, sphe- rical, camelian-coloured granules. ' No 6. Variegated slaty and ai^illaceous sandstone. No. 7. Micaceous argillaceous sandstone passing into an iron- stone slate-clay. No. 8. A rock of a somewhat similar kind, but containing more iron. Nob 9. Red argillaceous sandstone. No. JO. Overlyingunstratifiedamygdaloidaltrapcontainingmooh iron, and some carbonate of lime. The dip of the strata, Aom 1 to 9, inclusive, is to the south-east, at an angle of 25% the strike to the south-west, at an angle of 10^ The prevailing rock of the central district of Ayrshire (the num- ber 7 of the above series) alternates with some of these strata in TOBBOLTON. 745 the bed of the Fail near CoilsBeld House, and in the bed of a deep ravine to the west of Auchinleck House, Beyond the northern boundary of Torbolton parish, it appears to pass under the coal strata. OmJ, — The south-western part of this parish, and abo a patch in the north-eastern quarter, are portions of the Ayrshire coal-field. What first deserves notice in regard to it, is the water-of- Ayr- stone, or hone. This is a variety of indurated fire-clay, which at Enterkine, in the parish of Torbolton, at Dalinore, in the parish of Stair, also near St Quivox manse, and at Curreath, in Dun- donald parish, is to be found immediately under the soil, oovering the coal measures, and dipping conformably to them. It appears to be one of the coal measures. It varies in coarseness, in hard- ness, and also in colour, being blue, and blue with brown specks, yellow, and brown.- In all the localities in which it has been seen, trap occurs in its vicinity. The strata met with in sinking the Weston pit were the fol- lowing: Mo. 1. Slaty micaoeout Huidstone. No. 15. SUoe-elay. 2. Do. 16. Sandstone like No. 11. 8. Do. 17. Sandstone with much clay, ap- 4n Slaty micaoeous aandatone, in- proaching fire-elay. fluenced in its colour by con- 18. Ferruginous slate- clay with tained organisms. traces of Tegetable organisms. 5. Ironahot sandstone — slaty. 19. Slaty micaceous sandstMie like 6. Slaty sandstone. Nos. 2 and 8. 7. Fire-clay. 90. Slate-clay like No. 10. 8. Like No. 3. 21. Bituminous shale. 9. Slaty micaceous sandstone, cal- 22. Slate-coal. careous in a slight degree. 23. Coarse fire-clay. 10. Slaty clay. 24. QnarUy sanditone. 11. Sandstone. 25. Quaruy sandstone. 12. Slatecoal. . 13. Sandstone. 14. Greenstone with carbonate of lime. This last mentioned stratum is at the depth of 47 fathoms. It is 7 feet in thickness, and of excellent quaNty. Fibrous anthra- cite may be noticed not unfrequeutly in the coal. Coal mines were worked in Torbolton parish so early as the year 1497. T%e 7>Yi/>.— The coal district occupying the south-western por- tion of the parish is separated from the red sandstone by a band or dike of a very peculiar description of trap, which has been traced by the writer from Meadow Bank, in Stair parish, across the parishes of Torbolton and Craigte to the neighbourhood of Symington, a distance of about eight miles. Offsets from this dike, forming ridges 746 AYRSHIRE. and knolls, give to the parish its undulatory appearance. Cliin^» dam, CairngiHao ridge, Alton-burn, ** the Hill," and Torcorse Hill, are portions of this remarkable mass of trap. Its direction is north by west. It may average in breadth half^a-mile. It is a porphyritic and amygdaloidal trap; the amygdaloidal stnu^iue pre* vailing in some places, and the porphyritic in others. The amyg* daloidal portions are chiefly calcareous spar, while the crystals which give it the porphyritic character are apparently of horoblend or augite, much decomposed and highly coloured by oxide of iron. The dike along its whole extent abounds in steatite. It decays rapidly from the action of air and moisture on the iron and calea* reous matter, and, consequently, is a bad road metal, but it gives rise to a fertile soil. Organic ^maiiw.-— Owing to the deep covering of alluvial mat- ter, opportunities of examining the contents of the different strata rarely present themselves. There is an upthrow of the strata in the adjacent parish of Craigie, in the neighbourhood of a green- stone ridge. The following organic remains are met with in the Craigie shale and limestone. The list is given because little at- tention has hitherto been paid to the organic remains with which this district abounds. It will be seen to contain one or two rather rare species. Nautilutf quadratos Terebratula ambigoa Produotus lobatus OrUiooera Isvis .— ^_ lateralis -^ punctatus ■ undata Spirifer Urii pionatus Mytilus eraasus Turritella ooDstrieta »— trigonalis Turbinolia Fungites BellerophOQ Urii Productus Scoticus Sfoo/o^y.— -The fox, {Vu/pis vulgaris) has excellent cover on the banks of the Ayr. The otter {Lutra vulgaris) inhabits the Fail. A white mole is occasionally met with in this district, more frequently near Kilmarnock. As it occurs, year after year, in the same localities, it is probably a permanent variety. The king's fisher {Alcedo itpida) inhabits the Fail. Torbolton Loch is a fii- vourite resort and breeding-place of the snipe {Scolopax Galiinago), A small snake is to be found in the woods on the banks of the Ayr, but the writer has not seen a specimen. That beautiful harmless reptile {Laceria agilis) the lizard, seems to benefit by the climate of Ayrshire, and is apt to abound in farm-yards, if ducks are not kept. The brown rat {Mus decumanus) is becoming very numerous, and occasions great destruction of grain during winter. As the progress of tile-draining is increasing indefinitely summer aocom* TORBOLTON. 747 tnodation and breeding places for this animal, its increase to a vast extent would be the result, were it not for the activity and courage of the natural enemy of the rat, the weasel (Mustela vulgaris). It is unfortunate that there should be a general prejudice against this creature, the most dexterous, the most indefatigable, and the cheapest of all rat-catchers. Botany. — Owing to the mildness and moisturo of the climate, many flowering shrubs, originally outcasts from gardens, propagate, and are to be met with in hedge-rows and woods, while plants, un- questionably of native origin, exhibit unusual richness and beauty. Such is the case with the beautiful Mein/anihes trifoliata and Par* nassia palustris in Torbolton Loch. In this loch also, the Banun" cuius aquaiilis is to be seen, having its usual single row of petals, but tracing it along till it approaches the central ditch, (or main got, as it is called), when its roots penetrate into rich mud, it ac- quires a double row of petals. The Trollius Europeus, Geranium sylvatieum^ and a white variety of foxglove, occurring in Coilhome wood, deserve notice. The Solanum dulcamara^ with its clusters of purple flowers, adorns the hedge-rows near Privick Mill. The Orchis exhibits itself on shaded banks in great profusion, and is designated by some aged persons of the parish, by a name which vies in beauty with the plant to which it is applied, "the belldera.'' IL — Civil History. « The HUr or '* Tor-boi:'— The Hill is a beautiful green knoll surmounted by an artificial summit termed " the Moat/* The hiil has, in different states of society, been used for very dis- similar purposes. It has already been spoken of as a place of ido- latrous worship. One of those implements of stone termed celtst* used by the Druids for cutting, the misseltoe, (and probably also for slaying the human or other victim to be offered in sacrifice), was, a few years ago, dug up when cutting a drain in a field about a mile to the north-west of the Hill, and is preserved at the manse. The celt is of a hard clay stone, measures ten inches and a half in length, one inch and a half in breadth at the narrow end, gradually widens till it becomes three inches in breadth, when it is brought to a sharp edge, and, being of considerable weight, would, when grasped by the middle, according as the narrow and blunt or the broad and sharp end was used, inflict a stunning * " The celts wherewith the misseltoe was cut.*' Cooke's Enquiry into the Pa- triarchial and Druidical Temples, quoted by Ure in his History of Rutherglen^ page 225—226. 748 AYRSHIRIS. blow, or serve as a cutting instrument If we suppose it to have been fixed to a handle in the way in which their stone inaplemenis are attached by the natives of New Zealand to wooden handles, it would have the shape of the battle-axe. The Hill seems, on some occasions, to have been used as an en- campment, as it retains the marks of trenches. The conjecture, haza^ed by the writer of the former Statistical Account, that it was a Danish encampment, is highly improbable, as the roving Danes seldom encamped so far in tbe interior, and, besides, ^' there is no evidence that they ever bad any settlement within tbe Frith of Clyde/' ♦ The form of the Hill and its moat, truncated at the top, adapted it admirably for the administration of justice. ** It was formerly the Court- Hill of the Barony of Torbolton ; and the Hall formerly built on this mount was the chief messuage of the barons, where seisin was given of the same." f Across a small brook, and on the summit of an elevated piece of ground to the south-east, is a place still termed ^* tbe Gallow* Hill." About a century ago, the hill was rented by Mr John Hood, the parish schoolmaster, and was the play-ground of his scholars ; in consequence of which it has acquired the name of '^ HoodV Hill." Fat'/.— -A mile north from Torbolton, in the' suppressed parish of Barnweill, and at the western extremity of Fail Loch, encircled by a few ash and elm trees, are the ruins of the monastery of Fail or Failford, once a place of some note, and which still enjoys much celebrity from the mention made of the friars in the sarcas- tic lines preserved by Ramsay in .the Evergreen, and quoted by Walter Scott in the Abbot. | * Chalmerses Caledonia, Vol. iii page 455. •f- Privy Seal Register, quoted by Chalmera. f " The Friars of Fail drank berry-biovn ale, The best that ere was tasted, Tlie monks of Melrose made gude kale, On Fridays, when they fittted.'* Another ?enioii of th'is stanza has been preserved. " The Friars of Fail Gat never owre hard eggs, or owre thin kale ; For they made their eggs thin wi* butter, And their kale thick wf bread ; And the Friars of Pail they made gude kale On Fridays when they fasted. And they never wanted gear enough As long as their neighbours lasted.** TORBOLTON. 749 Fail was founded in 1252, and belonged to the Red Friars. They were called Mathurines, from the house of this order in Paris dedicated to St Mathurine ; and ^' patres de Redemptione captivoruro/' as it was a part of their duty to redeem captives from slavery. The name of the founder is unknown. The chief who ruled this convent was styled " minister.'' The minister of Fail- ford was Provincial of the Trinity Order in Scotland. From being the head of the order, he had a seat in Parliament. John de Graham, Lord of Torbolton, grants by his charter, of date September 21st 1335, given at Falle,* the patronage of the church of Torbolton, with the lands of Wnzank, on which the church is built, to his cousin Robert de Graham of Welston. The earliest of the *' Friars of Faill*' in regard to whom any- thing has been ascertained is '* Brothei* John/' who was the chief or minister of Failford in the year 1343. There are some docu- ments extant, relating to this *^ Brother John" and a ^' White Horse," which seem deserving of notice as bringing to light some of the methods taken by monks and friars for obtaining land and patronage, and displaying the ignorance and credulity of land* owners in Scotland in the fourteenth century. In a notarial iu- strument dated November 25, 1343^f <* Johannes de Graham, Duper Dominus de Torbolton, confesses, that, after his grant to his cousin Robert de Graham, which grant had been confirmed by the Seneschal of Scotland, and approved by the chapter of Glasgow, ^ Brother John,' minister of the House of the Holy Trinity at Ffele, in the diocese of Glasgow, had given him a White Horse for the right of patronage to the church of Tor- bolton, which horse the said * minister John' had afterwards for- cibly taken away (manu forti abstulit) from the said John de Graham This confession was made at Tor- bolton, in the church of that parish, before Thomas de Gedwrath, monk of the Cistertian Order, and others." Another document, entitledj: ^* Revocatio Johannis de Grahani filii,*' sets forth, *^ that things which are done through impetuosity of temper and facility of disposition, are revocable ; that, being igno- rant of law, ^ Brother John, of the House of the Holy Trinity of Ffele, in the diocese of Glasgow, had, by his flatteries and most pernicious present (non sine rounere pessimo) persuaded him to annul his former grant to his dear cousin, Robert Graham of Wal- ston, of the right of patronage to the church of Torbolton and * Liber de Melros, Tom. ii. 447. t Ibidem, 457. t Ibidem, 458. 750 AYESHIES. iMd called Unthank .... that be recalls this error, and will subject himself, as is fitting, to the correction due jto bis of- fence. Datum apud Torbolton, 21 Feb. for the salvation of his soul and that of Emma, his wife." A charter by Robert de Graham of Weilston,* granting to the monks of Melrose the patronage to the church of Torbolton and to the seyen acres of the lands of Unthank, and to the three acres of Carnegolayn, the nearest to the church,— and another charterf by the same Robert de Graham, conveying to the monks of Melrose, for the salvation of his soul, and that of Emma, his wife, the fol- lowing lands situate in the territory and lordship of Torbolton, viz. '^ Demehunche, Quyltisfeld, (Coilsfield) and Auldtounbnme,'* — give us to understand why John de Graham was compelled to make and to put on record such humiliating confessions ; and show that the affair of the white horse was a struggle betwixt the monks of Melrose, and the friars of Fail, for the increase of their patronage, and the extension of their lands — John de Graham being the dupe of the one party, and Robert de Graham the prey of the other. The monks of Melrose, by a promise to Robert of what they could not give, *^ salvation for his soul and that of his wife,*' had obtained from him not onlv theadvowson to Torbolton church and glebe, but also a grant of the estate of Coilsfield and other valua* able lands. The superior of Fail, his flatteris, and by the gift of the horse, had prevailed with John de Graham to convey to the house of Fail what was no longer his to bestow. Neither John de. Graham nor Robert de Graham appears to have been able to write his own name. Each charter bears that the person granting it had affixed his seal before witnesses. In the descrption of the lands of the burgh of Prestwick, drawn up 1470, mention j is made of a John Quhit of Fale, *^ that acht sum tyme a certain piece of land in Prestwick, the annuel of which he had given stat of to our Lady of Grace, and to Tho. of Best in her name." In 15d2, John Hamilton was appointed minister of Failford. In 1546 and 1560, the minister of Failford, Robert Cuning ham, sat in Parliament among the clergy. In 1587, William Wallace was minister of Failford. * Liber de Meirm, Tom. Si. 452. t Ibidem, No. 460. $ Records of Prestwick, page 9. 3 TORBOLTON. 751 In 1619, Walter Whytefurd was minister of Failford. The rental of the ministry of Failford, as given up by Robert Cuningham, the minister, in 1562, amounted to L. 174, 6s. 6d. in money ; 3 chalders of bear ; 15 chalders, 4 bolls of meal ; 30 stones of cheese; 10 hogs (young sheep) ; 3stirk8 (young cows) y 2 dozen grilses or salmon. There belonged to this convent five parish churches, viz. the churches of Barnwell, Symington, and Galston in Kyle, of Tor- thorwald in Dumfries-shire, and the church of Inverchoalan in Argyleshire. The estate of Fail is the property of Colonel Thomas Hunter Blair, of Brownhill and Dunskey. The estate and the monastery are in retours sometimes called Fail, but more frequently Failford. The latter name is the designation given in the county valuation book to the lands on which the ruin is situate. Nothing of the monastery now remains, saving one gable and part of a side-wall of the manor-house of the chief or iliiiiister. Kinff CoiTa Tomb. — To the south of Coilsfield House, and im« mediately west of the farm-offices, is a circular mound, enclosed by a hedge, and planted with oak and other trees* On the centre and highest part of this mound, are two large stones, masses of ba- salt^-which, according to tradition, mark the spot where the mor- tal remains of Old King Coil were deposited. The names borne by places in the vicinity are in keeping with this tr&dition. The beautiful mansion adjoining, one of the seats of the Barl of Eglin- ton, is named Coilsfield, t. e. the field of Coil. Kyle, the name of the central district of Ayrshire, is supposed to be the slime word Coil, spelled in accordance with the vulgar pronunciation of the name. A little brook that empties itself into the Fail is Called ** The Bloody Burn," and so testifies by its name, of the blood by which its waters had, on some memorable occasion, been polluted ; and a flat alluvial piece of ground along the Fail, opposite the mouth of the bloody burn, is still called '^ The Dead-menVho W probably from its having been the burial-place of the soldiers. High authority. — Chalmers, author of the Caledonia, denies that there ever was such a person as King Coil. Although it is well known that that author at times allows himself to be carried away by an undue love of theory, still his scepticism has had the effect of degrading into mere fable, in the estimation of many, tradition- ary history, in regard to the west of Scotland. Regard, therefore, for traditionary evidence, respect for the memory of the mighty 752 AYRSHIRE, dead, and love of historical truth, combined to render it desirable that Coil's grave should be opened. Accordingly, in May 1837, the two large stones were removed. The centre of the mound was found to be occupied by boulder stones, some of them of conside- rable size. When the excavators had reached the depth of about four feet, they came on a flag-stone of a circular form about three feet in diameter. Under the circular stone, was first a quantity of dry yellow co* loured sandy clay, then a small flag-stone laid horizontally, cover- ing the mouth of an urn filled with white-coloured burnt bones. In removing the dry clay by which this urn was surrounded, un- der flat stones, several smdl heaps of bones were observed, not contained in urns, but carefully surrounded by the yellow-coloured day mentioned above. The urns in shape resemble flower-pots ; they are composed of clay, and have been hardened by fire. The principal urn is 7^ inches in height, 7| inches in diameter, fths of an inch in thickness. It has none of those markings, supposed to have been made by the thumb nail, so often to be observed on sepulchral urns, and it has nothing of ornament except an edging or projecting part about half-an inch from the top. No coins, or armour, or implements of any description could be found. The discovery of these urns renders evident, that, at a very re- mote period, and while the practice of burning the dead still pre- vailed— -that is to say, before the introduction of Christianity — some person or persons of distinction had been deposited there. The fact of sepulchral urns having been fouud in the very spot where, according to an uninterrupted tradition, and the statements of several historians, King Coil had been laid, appears to give to the traditionary evidence, and to the statements of the early Scot- tish historians, in regard to Coil, a degree of probability higher than they formerly possessed. According to Bellenden, in his translation of Hector Boece, *^ Kyle is namit frae Coytl, Kyng of the Britons, quhilk was slain in the same region.'' Buchannan states, '^ that the Scots and Picts surprised the camp of the Britons in the night, and put almost the whole of them to the sword. Coilus, King of the Britons, was among the slain in this engagement* and the district in which the battle was fought was afterwards distinguished by his name." Other urns were found less indurated, and so frail as to fall to pieces when touched. An old man remembers that bis father, then a tenant on the TORBOLTON. 753 Coilsfield estate, turned up pieces of ancient armour and frag- ments of bones when ploughing the *^ dead men's home." In Bleau's Atlas, the following passage occurs, ^^ Aerae vicomita- tus Coilam, a Coilo Brittanorum Rege. • . In campoubi decerta- tum Cituus incurvus figura sua cornu referens, in primus canovus, multo post annis efibssus est, quo comarchi Caprintonii, quorum sedes primariae nostris Coilsfield dicitur, ad cogendos rusticos sues et operarios utuntur."* Defoe, in his Tour through Britain, makes a similar statement, and translates this passage, but does so without referring to the original, or quoting the authority of the celebrated Robert Gor- don of Straloch, by whom the narrative accompanying the maps of Scotland was, at the request of King Charles I., furnished to the Messrs Bleau of Amsterdam.f *' A trumpet resembling a crooked horn, which has a very shrill sound, was dug up in the field of battle, and is still kept in the Laird of Caprington's house called Coilsfield,| and made use of to call his servants and workmen together/' * Geographic BleuianfB, Tolumen seztum, p. 50, 60. Amstelsdami, 1762. f De Foe*8 Tour through Britain, Vol. iy. p. 130. Seventh Edition. ^ In a manuscript volume of poems and miscellaneous pieces now in the posses- sion of David Constable, Esq. Advocate, written about the year 1681, the author, John Bonar, schoolmaster. Ayr, gives in verse an account of a vojage from the port of Bangor in Ireland, with a description of some of the objects of natural curiosity and antiquity of the coast of Carrick, from Loch Ryan to Ayr. In this volume the following passage occurs : *^ The britones marchet, tuo dayes before the feild To Marrok*8 mote, for easement and for beild ; Afore the night they waughtet liquor fyne, Lyke filthie beasts lying like drunken swine. Quhen fergus heare they wer in sutch a pley, Doune fra Craigsbian be came right suddenly, And tooke his will upon hb traitrous foes, Quhair thousands lay skatteret like windlestroes. Coylus he fledd unto the river Ooune* Quher drownet were many yt thair did runn. And northward held, quhil they cam till a muir. And thair wes stayet be Soots that on him fuir. Fergus he followet and came right heastilie, Quhair Coyll wes killet and all bis hole armie ; The cuntry people fra thenseforthe does it call Coylstield in Kyll, as ever more.it salL Within twelve years, or litle mor's I guess, A trew story ane ditcher told me these ; Tining the earth for iewell to his flett, Hia spead did run upoa ane stane bot left, Quhilk, quhen he hade espyet earnestlie, A tomb it wet buildet full curiouslye ; He roITd awaye, and fund a pitcher law With ashes, and bones, that all men might it knaw, Upon the stone wer graven letters fiiyre, Mojft9 eij»p of this as now I speak nd more.** AYR. 3b 7^4 AYRSHrRE. This horn, so minutely described in Bleau's great work and bj De Foe, is carefully preserved at Caprington Castle. It corresponds exactly with the description given of it, and it retains its shrill sound. There is no tradition in the family as to when or where the trumpet was found, and nothing was known of its history when the writer made inquiry concerning it. The detail given in the subjoined metrical extract seems im- portant, as it reconciles the historical narratives in regard to Coyl with the traditionary account and the monumental testimony. The early historians speak of the battle having been fought in Carrick, near the Doon, while the tomb and names of a variety of places, and also tradition, go to fix Coilsfield as the place of the King's death. According to Bonnar, Coil's troops were sur- prised and routed on the Doon, but the King and the remnant of his army proceeded northwards, and were overtaken and slain at a moor. *< The country people fra thenceforth does it call Coylsfield in Kyle as ever more it shall.** It perhaps deserves to be remarked that the name of the gardener's house at Coilsfield- is Middle-muir. Taliesin, who flourished in the sixth century, in his poem on the battle of Argoed Llwyfain, speaks of ^* Cheneu, son of Coel."* Roman Camp and Sepulchral Urns. — At Park- Moor there is a place called the Roman Camp, where trenches are to be seen, * Sepulchral urns were found under cairns near the camp. An urn was also found under a cairn of stones on the farm of Law. It is highly ornamented with markings, made apparently with the thumb-t]ail, and is in excellent preservation. Sepulchral urns were recently discovered about a quarter of a mile northwards from Fail Monastery. When levelling a piece of ground a large flat stone was found five feet below the surface. Under the stone was a small pit, or grave, in which were two urns containing burnt bones. The urns fell to pieces soon after being exposed to the atmosphere. Two other flat stones have been met with, each covering a small pit. There was an urn in one of these pits. The other had no urn, but contained a considerable quantity of burnt bones. This very ancient depository for the dead exhibits evidence of scrupulous attention having been paid to order. The pits, which are rudely lined with stones, resemble each other in * Sharon Turnfr*s Vindication «f the Ancient British PoenM, p. 248. TOttBOLTON. 755 shape, being wider towards the one end than at the other. Such is also the case with the flag-stones which covered the pits. Two of the pits run north-east and south-west; the third stretches north-west and south-east. These pits or graves are so situate relatively to each other, that straight lines, connecting a point in the centre of each of them, would form an equilateral triangle, the length of each side being eight feet. The Druids, who, in the period of heathenism, were the priests, the judges, and the magi- cians of the west of Europe, regarded the making of processions in certain geometrical figures, and the placing of stones in certain numbers and forms, as being in importance inferior only to their horrid practice of offering up human sacrifices. <^ They were ex- pelled," says Selden in his Janus Anglorum, **from France by Tiberius, from Rome by Claudius, from Britain by Christianity." Eminent Men — CoiL — The name of Coil is so interwoven with the traditionary history of the west of Scotland, that we cannot but take special notice of him among the eminent men connected with the parish in which he found a grave. He was king of the Britons or Welsh, but had extended his conquests over a conside- rable part of Scotland. It has been maintained by some, that his daughter Helena was the mother of the first Christian emi>eror, Constantine the Great. Owing to forgetfulness of King Coil, there has been much eager disputation as to the correct reading of an adage of unknown antiquity, which sets forth something characteristic of each of four districts of the west country. The most northerly part of Ayr- shire is called Cuningham. *' Cuning means a butter churn, and Cuningham, the churn district."* Carrick also had anciently high celebrity. Speaking of Car- rick, Maister John Bellenden says : ^^ In this region are money fait ky and oxen, of quhilk the flesh is rycht delicious and tender. The tallow of their wambis is so sappy that it fresis never, but flows ay be nature of the self in manner of oulie."f That which has given its distinctive name to the central dis- trict of Ayrshire, is mentioned both by historians and poets. ^' Kyle namit fra Coyll Kyng of Brittons,'^ or, as Burns has ex- pressed i4 *' Twas in diat place o* Scotland's isle. That bears the name o* auld King Coil." * tlobertaon*8 Ayrshire Families, Vol. i. page 247. t History and Cronikles of Scotland De Maister Hector Boece. Translated Be Maister John Bellenden. £din. 15S5. 756 AYUSHIRE. Hence the adage, ** Kyle for a laan, Carrick for a coir, Cunningham for butter and cheese, and Galloway for woo.** Peden. — The Rev. Alexander Peden, whose memory is much revered in the west of Scotland, held the office of schoolmaster in Torboltoo. After he became a minister, and during the time of the Persecution, he frequently preached at a secluded spot in the Coilhome wood, called Peden's Pulpit. A short way up the river there is a hollow place in the face of a cliff, to which he used to retire after preaching, called Peden's Cove, The pulpit is a jut- ting out mass of red sandstone overlooking a level piece of ground bounded by the Ayr, and hid from view by precipitous cliffs and lof^y banks covered with copsewood. It is remembered that many of bis admiring hearers used to assemble before the pulpit with their loaded firelocks in their hands — a precaution not unnecessary, as is abundantly testified by the subjoined inscription on a tomb- stone in Torbolton church-yard.* Woodhill is on the banks of the Ayr, about two miles up the river from Peden's Pulpit. The Rev. Dr William Ritchie. — Torbolton was the earliest pas* toral charge of the late Dr William Ritchie, one of the ministers of the High Church of Edinburgh, and for about twenty years Professor of Divinity in the University of Edinburgh. He was an accomplished scholar, an eloquent preacher, and a profound theo* logian. During the period of his filling the Divinity Chair, the number of theological students at Edinburgh greatly increased, and a large proportion of the present clergy of the Church of Scotland were educated under him. In consequence of advanced age and repeated attacks of dangerous illness, he, in 1827, re- signed his professorship. When he was unable longer to labour in word and doctrine, he had the consolation to know that his for- mer pupils were now the faithful preachers of those precious truths which it had been the business of his life to teach to others, and which proved his own support in the prospect of death. He pas- sed the remainder of his days at Torbolton manse, where he died in January 1829. He was interred in the church-yard of thb pa- rish, in the very spot on which he was ordained to the office of the holy ministry. * Here Lys William Shillilaw, who was shot at Woodbead by Lieut. Lauder for his adherence to the Word of God and Scotland's coTenaoted work of reformation, 1665. TOUBOLTON, 75 t Bums. — Robert Burns spent the happiest of his days and wrote the best of his poems at Lochlee, in the upper part of this parish. Many of the localities around are alluded to in his writings. Young men of the parish were the members of the Debating Club which he established at Torbolton, and his '* dear brothers of the mys- tic tye." Daughters of the small farmers, and servant girls of the neighbourhood, were the beauties whose charms he has immorta- lized. Thonu — A (hatched cottage, about a mile from Lochlee, is the birth-place of the most successful of all the illustrators of Burns, the self-taught artist Thom, whose Tarn o' Shanter and Souter Johnny form a new era in the history of sculpture. Mansion-houses. — Coilsfield House^ the property of the Earl of Eglinton, is an elegant modern mansion, beautifully situate on the southern bank of the Fail rivulet, and embosomed among rich woods. *< There summer first unfaulds her robes, And there they langest tarry.** It is mentioned by Burns under the name of ^' The Castle of Montgomerie," in his beautiful song of " Highland Mary," and was a favourite resort of the poet during the time of his residence at Lochlee. Mary Campbell, the heroine of the song, and the person addressed in his pathetic stanzas beginning with ** Thou lingering star with lessening ray, That lovest to greet the early morn,*' &c. was one of the domestic servants at Coilsfied, and the object one of his warmest attachments. The other residences in the parish are, Enterkine, Smithston House, Drumley, and Aflon Lodge. Lrtnd'Owners* — The chief land -owners are. The Right Honour* able the Earl of Eglinton ; John Bell of Enterkine, Esq. ; His Grace the Duke of Portland ; Samuel Cooper of Smithston, Esq. ; Hugh Hamilton of Halrig, Esq. ; Colonel Thomas Hunter Blair of Brownhill ; Colonel S. Neill of Barnweill ; James Oswald of Auch* encruive, Esq. ; William Paterson of Ladykirk, Esq. ; A. M'HaflSe of Overton, Esq. ; Thomas Davidson of Drumley, Esq. ; William Cooper of Temple Bog Wood, Esq. ; James Campbell of Craigie, Esq. ; William Patrick of Gillhead, Esq. ; Mrs Paterson of Smith- field ; William Ronald of Bennels, Esq. ; Robert Pettigrew of Tarshaw, Esq. ; Hay Boyde of Law, Esq. ; Alason Cuninghame of Afton, Esq. ; Mrs Hume of Spittle&idc ; John Lees of MilU burn, Esq. 758 AYIISHIRE. Parochial Registers. — The dale of the earliest entry id the re- gister of baptisms is 1730. The earliest jminute of session is of date 1774. The register of baptisms is defective, owing to the carelessness of some parents in not haying their children registered. IIL — Population. Tbe population of the parish id 1755 waa 1865 1796, . laoo 1821, . 2175 1831. . 2274 1841, . 2612 The population of the ?illage is 1068 Tbe yearly ayerage of births for tbe Uut seven years is • 70 deaths, . . • 40 marriages, . • . 25 There are five families of independent fortune residing in the parish. Insane persons, none ; fatuous, 1 ; blmd, 3 ; deaf and dumb, 2. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — The number of acres in crop, or occasionally cultivated is 10,868 imperial. The number of acres of meadow land or morass is 496 impe- rial ; all of which, without much diflSculty, might be brought under cultivation. The extent of land under plantation and natural wood is 960 acres imperial. Rent. — The valued rent of the parish is L.7038^ 10s. 2d. Scots. The real rent from land is about L. 10,500. The highest rented land is L.2, 10s. ; the lowest Ids., the average rent about L.1, Ss* per Scotch acre. Husbandry, — On most farms in the parish, a fourth is ploughed, and in that case the rotation is, 1«^ oats, with perhaps an acre or two acres of beans ; 2 ley, and was afterwards proceeded against by the abbot, as baring iniquitously, irre- gularly, and unUwfiilly fulminated against him sentence of excommunication.— Re- gisterium Monasterii de Passelet, p. 933. TORBOLTON. 7(33 Education. — There are two schools in the village, and one in the country part of the parish. The parish schoolmaster has the medium salary. There are no natives of the parish upwards of fifteen years of age who cannot read. While this is the case, it is at the same time true that, during the last ten years, there has been a gradual diminution of the proportion of the population attending school. Boys are now at the loom, or go down the coal-pit, when ten or eleven years of age. Girls at even a more tender age, earn their subsistence at needle-work. The evil which must result from this shortened period of attendance is at present in some de^ gree mitigated by evening-schools, Sunday-schools, and classes for religious instruction. Literature. — There is a subscription library in Torbolton, and also at the Crawfordston colliery, and there are about 200 small volumes for the use of the Sabbath scholars. Alms-houses. — The late Alexander Cooperj Esq. of Smithston, bequeathed all the money and moveable property of which he died possessed, for the purpose of building and endowing an hos- pital for the support of persons of the parishes of Torbolton and Mauchline in reduced circumstances, upwards of forty years of age, and who have never begged. A very handsome hospital, or rather range of alms-houses, has been erected at a place which, about thirty years ago, received the name of Failford, and is beautifully situate near the junction of the Fail and the Ayr. The hospital is designed to accommodate eight persons, and has eight separate apartments. The inmates receive a weekly aliment, and have each a piece of garden ground. Friendly Societies. — There are two Friendly Societies for females and one for men, which have proved of great advantage. There is also a savings bank. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons on the poor's roll is 20. The average number of persons re*^ ceiving occasional relief is 15. The collection at the church doors amounts to L. 37. Such further sum as is required is made up by the heritors by voluntary contribution. The average an* nual expenditure for the poor inclusive of the expense for collect- ing contributions from heritors, is L.IOO. Fairs. — There are two fairs held at Torbolton, chiefly for the sale of dairy stock, one of them on the first Tuesday of June, O. & the other on the second Tuesday of October, O. S. Jnns^ Alehouses^ jfc— U^here are eleven places for the sale of 764 AYRSHIRE. spirituous liquors in the village, and eight in the country part of the parish. The great number of public-houses, and the low price of whis- Icy, are prejudicial alike to the temporal comfort and moral condi* tion of the population. Fuel — The only fuel used is coal. The Weston or Crawford- 8ton colliery is three and a-half miles from Torbolton. The coal, which is of excellent quality, costs at the pit 6s. per ton of 20cwt. At Adamhili, two miles from the village, light or cannel coal can be obtained at 6s. 8d« per ton of 20 cwt. January 1842. PARISH OF CRAIGIE .• PRE8BYT£RT OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR* THE REV. JOHN STIRLING, D.D. MINISTER. in 1647. I I. — Topography and Natural History. Boundaries^ num. PcN>r.— Number of persons receiving aid, 34. Sum raised last year by contribution in the church, I* 30, 178. Amount of assess- ment last year, L. 100. January 1842. PARISH OF FENWICK. PRE8BYTBRY OF IRVINE, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. ROBERT FERGUSON, MINISTER. I, — Topography and Natural History. Tbb parish of Fenwick anciently formed part of Kilmarnock. In 1642, it was disjoined from that parish, and was for some time known by the name of New- Kilmarnock. It appears to have de- rived its present name from Fenwick hill, in the neighbourhood of the church. The name is probably of Gaelic origin. Extent and Boundaries. — The length of the parish is about 9 774 AYRSHIRE. miles, its breadth upwards of 6. It is bounded on the east, by the parishes of Loudoun and Kilmarnock ; on the south, by Kilmar- nock ; on the west, by Stewarton ; and on the north, by Meams and Eaglesham. Topographical Appearances. — The form of the parish some- what resembles that of an oblong square. From the south, the ascent is gradual northwards, till it attains an elevation of about 700 feet, before reaching the point where it joins the Mearns moor. The lower part of the parish is occupied by cultiva- tors of the soil, and the produce is equal to that of the other districts in the neighbourhood. In the higher parts, the land is chiefly pastoral, and of excellent quality, the stock being equal to that of any land for many miles around, and, from the spirit of the farmers, it is daily improving. Of late years, the farmers in many parts of the parish have done much toward the improvement of their lands by draining. They have, in consequence, brought un- der cultivation large tracts of land, which formerly were not mere- ly tmproductive, but positively dangerous. In many instances, fields, acro<;s which, in a natural state, cattle could not with safety walk, are now yielding abundant crops. There is, however, a considerable portion of the soil entirely unproductive. In some of the farms, there are extensive mosses, which, at various seasons of the year, cannot be crossed by either man or beast, without the risk of life ; and one farmer lately told us, that there were at least ]00 acres in his farm which he would gladly want, as he found the moss frequently fatal to his sheep and cattle. These mosses are of great depth. Climate. — The climate is moist, and rains, owing, it may be, to the comparfitive proximity of the parish to the sea, are very pre- valent. There are no diseases peculiar to the parish ; and, from all I have been able to observe, the people enjoy as fair a share of health as any in the county. By the parliamentary census of the present year, there were in this parish twenty persons in a popu- lation of 2020, between eighty and ninety years of age. Riven. — There are only two streams in the parish > they rise in the north, and flow in a south by south-west direction towards the sea, which they enter at Irvine. Geology. — Limestone is found in the parish in abundance, and several quarries are worked with considerable advantage to the pro- prietors, and to the parishioners in general. Coal has, at diflfer^ FENWICK. 7?5 ent periods, been met with, but till lately did not appear in such quantity as to promise an adequate remuneration for working it. It is proved, however, that the parish is abundantly supplied with coal. And it is to be hoped that the enterprise of the proprietor, the Marquis of Hastings, will be amply rewarded. On the same lands, iron has been found in great abundance, one bed measuring five feet in thickness. II. — Civil History. The history of Fenwick may be said to commence at the pe- riod of its disjunction from the parish of Kilmarnock in l(i42. At that time, the parishioners seem to have been in a state of great ignorance, as may be seen from the following passage from the ^^ Memoirs of the Rev. Mr Guthrie/' its first pastor. " Most of his parishioners had hitherto been destitute of the oominon means lal instruction, and of the ordwanoes of religion ; aod it was only the glaring want of church accommodation and instruction in this peglected part of an old overgrown parish, that caused the forma- tion of the new parish of Fenwick. Mr Guthrie, in consequence, found them in a very low state of moral and mental improvement .Vice had grown up in all its wildness and deformity on the basis pf ignorance. And the age and general features of that time gave a severity and harshness of expression to the manners of those who had enjoyed neither the softening influences of the Gospel, nor the bland impressions of high civilization. But, in proportion to the stubbornness of the soil, and the difiiculty of breaking it up, were the effects of his ardour and diligence conspicuous ; and the condition in which he found them, was a strong contrast to the ge- nuine piety and moral feeling which a few years of his labours in- troduced. He found them wandering without a guide, and sunk in all the consequences of a neglected education. He brought them into the great fold of the Gospel, and enlightened them by every means which his powerful and judicious management devis- ed, both in the pulpit and out of it. He found them heedless of the Sabbath ; — some loitering in the fields ; some go$3iping in their neighbours' houses ; almost all spending it as a day of plea- sure, without considering the important blessings it brought to the improvement of their immortal souls. He soon gained their atten- dance on all the ordinances of the Gospel, and their special ob- servance of keeping sacred the Lord's day. He found a sad lack of family devotion among them ; few families in his parish, in the course of his ministry, could be singled out as omitting this solemu 776 AYRSIltKF* and improving exercise. And many were the instances of the careless sinner aroused and subdued by his preaciiing ; and many he had the happiness of witnessing in their lives and eonTersationy as the humble and devoted followers of that Saviour whom he ua* ceasingly held forth to the acceptance of all. In short, the moral change wrought among them by his ministry, was a notable instance of the power of God accompanying the exertions of one of bis choicest instruments," Eminent Men. — This parish was the birth-place or residence of several distinguished men, and among these the first place is due to the Rev. Mr Guthrie* Descended from an ancient family in Angus-shire, the Guthries of Pitforthie, he was the eldest son of a numerous family, three of whom devoted themselves to the work of the Christian ministry. It would seem he had re* ceived an exeellent education under the care of a pious mother^ and that he studied under the celebrated Samuel Rutherford, then Professor of Divinity in St Andrews. About the age of twenty, he made over the estate of which he was heir to his brother, that he might have no worldly cares to withdraw him from bis studies and the duties of the sacred office. At the early age of twenty- four, he was appointed to the pastoral charge of this parish ; and such was the ardour of his piety, and the iame of his eloquence^ that a considerable number of the regular attendants on his mi- nistry came from Glasgow, Hamilton, and Lanark.. After he had been settled here twenty years, during which time] he was too considerable a person to have escaped the jealous eye of the Government, he was at last ejected with all the rudeness of mili- tary despotism by the instrumentality of the Archbishop of Glas* gow. He survived this event little more than a twelvemonth. He was buried in the family vault of Pitforthy, in the cathedral of Brechin. Captain Paton, a distinguished officer among the Covenanters, was a native of this parish. He was born at Meadowhead, of which his &ther was farmer, and was himself employed in agri- culture till the age of manhood, when he went abroad, and en* gaged as a volunteer in the German wars. For his heroic con- duct at a siege, he was raised per saltum to the rank * of* cap- tain. On his return to Scotland, his courage and military ex- perience gave him a prominent place in the transactions of his persecuted country. Of his prowess in battle many instances are recorded. He fought at the battle of Worcester, where FENWJCK. 777 he distinguished himself by his heroism, and so deeply impres- sed Greneral Dakell with admiration of his courage, that long afterwards, when Paton had been condemned, he applied to the king for his pardon. At Bothwell, it is said he acted as colonel, though he did not retain the title. After the defeat of Bothwell, he was declared a rebel, and a price offered for his head* His escapes were numerous and romantic He afforded shelter in his house at Meadowhead to several of the persecuted ministers ; and it is said, that Mr Cargill baptized at one time twenty-two children in his barn. He was at last taken at Floak, in the parish of Meams. On his way to Kilmarnock, he was accidentally met by General Dalzell, who affectionately embraced him, and assured him that he would apply to the king for his pardon. , The Gene- ral kept his word, and solicited and obtained the pardon ; but Bishop Paterson inhumanly detained the order till after the exe- cution. His Bible, which he handed to his wife on the scaffold, along with bis sword, are still preserved as heir-looma among his descendants. The people of Fenwick, in gratitude for his services, have erected a tombstone to his memory. John Howie of J^ochgoin deserves notice as the author of the Scots Worthies, a work of great interest. *' His ancestors," we are informed by Mr M^ Gavin, ** had occupied the same farm for ages ; and some of them suffered much in the persecuting period, particularly his great-graudfather, whose house was robbed and plundered twelve times ; but he always escaped with his life, and died in peace three years after the Revolution. John, the author of this work, died in 1793, aged fifty^seven." His descendants possess ample materials for an account of his life, and it is much to be desir- ed that the memory of a man, so devout and otherwise so meritori- ous, should be rescued from the comparative oblivion in which it is at present involved. The Howies of Lochgoin, though a hum- ble, are a very ancient family. They are supposed to have ori- ginally sprung from a family of Waldenses, who fled to Scotland in order to escape the persecution which, at the time, was raging in their own country. The period of their emigration cannot, per- haps, be distinctly ascertained. They selected one of the most inaccessible places in the whole country for their residence. The house is altogether inaccessible on the east to horsemen, and an active man could not, even though acquainted with the locali* ty, at night cross the moss, by which it is defended, but at the risk of his life; and no stranger could venture across it with safety. »>»• 778 AYRSHIRE. even in day-light, without a guide. On the west, the only direction from which it can be approached, a sentinel was always statiooed in tinnes of danger, whence he could command an exteDsi?e view of the whole country as far as Ailsa Craig and the hills of Arran, and thus no body of troopers could reach the house, before the inmates had time to escape into the morasses. A situation like this was invaluable as a place of resort to the Covenanters, and it was the point to which the utmost vigilance and attention of the dragoons were naturally directed. Twelve times was the house plundered, and as often did the people escape. On such occasions^ the money was remofed and buried in the neighbouring mosses. It happened once, that they -were nearly taken by surprise, and had only time to conceal the coin, without being able to mark the spot. In spite of all subsequent search, it remained in the mem for more than a century, when the place was accidentally discovered. After an extensive search, some scores of British and foreign coins were discovered. These are preserved by the family as very in- teresting relics. The Fenwick flag, which waved at Bothwell, Kilsyth, and Drumclog, is also preserved.* In the churchyard of Fenwick there are two tombstones erect- ed, to point out the resting-place of individuals who, in the sacred cause of the covenant, sealed their faith with their blood.f * It is said that the late Edward Irving, who either was, or imagined himself to be. in sonne way related to the family, beheld this relic of a pious but persecuted people, with an interest almost amounting to devotion. t The one of these stones bears the following inscription : — *' Here lies the dust of John Fergushill and George Woodburn, who were shot at Midland by Nisbet and his party, 1685." ** When bloody prelates, once these nations* pest, Contrived that cursed self^contradicting test, 7 hese men for Christ did suffer martyrdom, And here their dust lies waiting till he come.** The other is as follows : — ** Here lies the body of James White, who was shot to death at Little Blackwood, by Peter Inglis and his party, 1685." *< lliis martyr was by Peter Inglis shot. By birth a tyger rather than a Soot, Who that his monstrous extract might be saen, Cut off his head and kick't it o*er the green. Thus was that head which was to wear a crown, A football made by a profane dragoon." In a work popularly known by the name of the Fenwick Visions, the author of which was John Howie of Lochgoin, there are some singular narratives of visions of armies in battle array, &c. seen in this parish immediately before the Itebellion of 1745, and the late war with France. There is a tradition connected with a house in this parish which is worth record- ing. King's Well has long been known as the principal inn between Glasgow and KU- marnook. It stands on one of the most elevated spots in the parish, and is flanked on the west by a deep flow- moss, over which a road has been formed within the last few years with extraordinary difficulty, the moss being in many parts so soft that a dog could not have walked across it without sinking. At somo dbtanoe from King's MWlf stood Pathclly Hall, a baronial residence of the Cochrancs, at that time a place FENWICK. 779 III. PoPrLATION. The number of inhabitants in the parish, according to the )m- liamentary census of the present year, was 2020, giving an increase of only one over that of 1831. The population*, is very' nearly equally divided between the village and country inhabitants* Dnr* ing many years, there has been no register of deaths preserved, and only a partial one of births ; and on this account, it is impossible to state the average number in either case. IV. — Pakochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church was built in 164S. Its external appearance is antiquated, but the interior is neat and com- modious. Among other objects of interest belonging to it, the oaken pulpit from which Mr Guthrie preached, and which is still used, is the most conspicuous.* The church affords accommoda- tion for 700 or 800 people. The sittings are all free. The manse is a large but uncomfortable and unhealthy house. It was built in 1783; repaired and enlarged about twelve years ago. The glebe comprises about eight acres of good land. Its yearly value may be Lf.24. The stipend is L. 150 per annum, a small portion of which is derived from the Exchequer. There is one Dissenting chapel in the parish in connection with of some importance, but of vhich there is now hardly a vestige. Hither one of the Jameses was proceeding to administer justice on occasion of some feud or fonj, of which the details have not been preserved. The affair was sufficiently serious to oo« casion no slight apprehensions on the part of those who had the misfortune to be im- plicated, and the approach of the monarch awakened^ many conflicting emotions of hope and fear. After a long ride over very difficult ground, and in one of the higfa- e%t and most exposed districts in Scotland, his Majesty had at last acquired an appe- tite too sharp to be compatible with comfort. He was obliged therefore to alight at the nearest house, which happened to be a peasant's cottage. The gudewife supplied him with very homely cheer ; but luxury was then in a great measure unknown, and a king would have been contemptible who could not rottgh it with the hardieat of his subjects. After a hearty meal, he was proceeding tu depart, when the good woman told him that her husband was one of the prisoners whose trial had been the main object of his journey, and that he surely never would have the heart to hang a roan after having eat his breakfast sitting in his arm-chair. This appeal the rules of hos- pitality rendered irresistible. When he reached Pathelly Hall, he singled out the husband of his hostess, lectured him on the impropriety of his conduct, and dismis- sed him with an admonition to be a better bairn. He next commenced his inves- tigation, and finding eighteen of the prisoners guilty, hung them up forthwith on a hawthorn, which is still pointed out, and displays obvious marks of great antiquity. On his way to Pathelly Hall, his horse drunk at the spot where King's Well now stands, and shortly afterwards sunk in a quagmire, which is still call«l the King*a Suble. His majesty long remembered the ride, of which he used often to detail the particulars, and the Ayrshire roads were represented as impassable. * In the church the sand-glass is still employed, and is used thus : When the preacher has announced the text from which he is to preach, the precentor brings forth from a small box a half.hour sand-glass, which he places on an iron stand. When the glass has run out, he removes it, and the preacher after that, only adds what he finda necessary. 780 AYBSHIRE. the United Secession. Dissent in Fenwick dates its origin from 1782, at which period an individual was intruded into the parish in opposition to the repeated petitions and remonstrances of a united population. The question of that individual's settlement was long litigated in the ecclesiastical courts. His ordination and induction, however, were at length ordered by the General As- sembly. When the period for carrying this order into effect ar- rived, the Presbytery of Irvine, knowing well the opposition which they were likely to encounter, proceeded to ordain the unacceptable mini8ter,{not in the parish in which he was to labour, but in the usual place of meeting in the burgh of Irvine. The people of Fenwick, however, were still anxious to remain within the pale of the Established Church, and for this purpose they solicited the sanction of the presbytery to the erection of a chapel of ease, where they might enjoy the ministrations of a pastor selected by them- selves, j^ But those who had been the instruments of intrud- ing an unacceptable minister into the pulpit once filled by the il- lustrious Guthrie, were not likely to lend a favourable ear to such a petition. The prayer of the petition was accordingly refused, and a very large dissent was the consequence. The few families, and they were very few, who remained in communion with the Es* tablished Church, became regular attendants in neighbouring pa- rishes. The vast majority united, erected a place of worship in connection with the class of seceders called Burghers. The dis- sent thus begun, many circumstances combined to continue. The incumbency of the intruded minister was a long one, extending to forty- seven years. During his ministry, he was not successful in recalling any of those whom his induction had driven from the church of their fathers. Many families, however, who, during his incumbency, became resident in the parish, not being formeriy Dissenters, and not being influenced by those feelings to which his induction gave birth, continued in communion with the church, and became members of his congregation. In this way, a respec- table congregation had been formed at the period of his death. The settlement which followed was scarcely more favourable for the interests of the Established Church. Dissent began afresh, and proceeded to such an extent, that in 1836, when the present incumbent was settled, he found only one-third of the population belonging to the Establishment Education. — The number of schools in the parish is five, of which two are parochial and endowed ; the others are on the 3 KIRK03WALD. 781 teachers' own adventure. The state of divisioD existing in the pa* rish in ecclesiastical affairs extends its influence even to matters of education, so that not only is the adult population separated in their places of worship, but their children resort to different schools. Of the two parochial teachers, one enjoys an endowment of L. 27, the other of L. 10 per annum. February 1842. PARISH OF KIRKOSWALD.* PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JAMES INGLIS, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish takes its name from Oswald, a Northum- brian king of the Heptarchy, who built a church on the site of the burying- ground beside the village — in gratitude, it is said, for a victory he had there obtained. Situation, Erection, Extent, ^c. — The parish is situate in that district of Ayrshire called Carrick. Prior to 1652, it was of con- siderably larger extent than at present. At that time, the pa- rish of Barr was disjoined from Girvan, Dailly, and Colmonell The sea-coast of the parish from north to south is six English miles in extent ; the greater part of which is a sandy beach, wirh a beautiful and rich carpet of grass, to the very sea-mark. From every part of this coast, there is a beautiful prospect of the Frith of Clyde, land-locked, as it were, on all sides, by the coast of Cunningham, island of Bute, island of Arran, Kintyre, the coast of Ireland, and the Ayrshire coast. What adds to the beauty and grandeur of the prospect, is the noble rock of Ailsa, in the middle of the Frith. Surface, Soil, 4*^. — The surface is hilly ; but the hills, except in two places, called Mochruro and Craigdow, never rise to any con- siderable height Near Mochrum, there is a loch which covers twenty-four Scots acres, and another, apparently as large, near Craigdow. From these lochs, and from numberless springs which rise out of every hill, flow many small streams, which wander * From not€S furnished by individuals residing in the pari&h. 782 AYRaHiRe. through the parish, and afford aboodance of pure water. Except the very tops of Mochrum and Craigdow^ and several tracts oIqk>&s, the whole parish is arable. There is little or no natural wood in the parish. But the want of this is happily supplied by the plantations made by the Earl of Cassillis and Sir Charles Fergusson of Kilkerran. IL — Civil History. Antiquities. — Upon a small promontory on the barony of Turn- berry, now the property of the Earl of Cassillis, are the ruins of the &mous castle of Turnberry, the seat of the Earls of Carrick. When or by whom it was built is altogether uncertain. Authen- tic history, however, informs us, that in 1724, Martha, Countess of Carrick, lived in this her castle, and was that year married to Robert Bruce, Earl of Annandale. From this marriage sprung the kings of Scotland, of the race of Stewart. In 1806, Turn- berry was held by an English garrison, under Earl Percy ; and some years after this, we find that King Robert Bruce stormed the castle, still in possession of the English, routed and expelled the garrison, but at the expense of the destruction of the building. Af- ter this, we do not hear of its being inhabited. The next remarkable old building in the parish, is the Ab- bey of Crossraguel, founded by Duncan, King of Scotland, in 1260, situated two miles east from the village. It is more entire than any abbey in the west of Scotland. The side walls of the church and choir still remain to the height of fourteen feet. It has been exceedingly well lighted within. Towards the east, remains the niche where the principal altar stood. On the right of this is the vestry, and the Abbot's ecclesiastical court, all en- tire, and arched very much in the style of the cathedral at Glas- gow. There are besides, several vaults and cells> all built of fine hewn-stone. At the east end of the abbey, stand the ruins of the Abbot's first house. On the west end of the abbey, stands the last house which the Abbot inhabited. The whole building stands in the middle of eight acres of ground, commonly called the Abbot's yard, or precinct of Crossraguel. This ruin is preserved with great care and attention. The next old building in the parish, is the house or castle of Thomaston, about half a-mile to the south*east of Culzean. Tra- dition tells us, that this was built by a nephew of Robert Bruce, in the year ld*35« It has been exceedingly strong, and of very consi- 4 KIRKOSWALD. 783 derable extent. It was inhabited fifty years ago, and is now the property of the Earl of Cassillis. Of the more modern buildings in this parish, the most remark* able is Culzean castle, founded by David, late Earl of Cassillis, in the year 1777. This noble edifice is situated upon a rock, project- ing a little into the sea, of about 100 feet in height from the sur- face of the water, and almost perpendicular. The style of the ar- chitecture, and the execution of the work, are singularly elecmnt. At a proper distance from the castle, stand the stables and farm-* houses. The castle commands a delightful prospect of the whole Frith of Clyde, with a full view of the rock of Ailsa. On the land side, and immediately below the castle, are the gardens belong- ing to the old house of Culzean, formed out of rock, at a great ex- pense, into three terraced ; upon the walls of which are planted some of the rarest and most delicate shrubs and trees, seldom found growing in the open air. The remainder of the old gardens • is formed into pleasure-ground and gravel walks, kept with great care. Round the castle, and the adjoining buildings, lies an ex- tensive policy of about 700 acres, interspersed with many thriving plantations. Near to the castle, and immediately under some of the build- ings, are the coves or caves of Culzean. These are six in num- her. Of the three towards the west, the largest has its entry as low as high-water mark ; the roof is about 50 feet high ; it ex- tends inwards about 200 feet, and varies in breadth. It commu- nicates with the other two, which are both considerably less, but of much the same irregular form. Towards the east, are the other three coves, which likewise communicate with each other. They are nearly of the same height and figure with the former ; but their extent has notbeen precisely ascertained. (Old Stat. Account.) In the interior of the parish, there are very distinct remains of a Druidical circle. Stone-cofBns have been dug up, and found to contain curious ornaments, some of which are in the possession of the minister of the parish. Some years ago, a very curious spear was discovered in a moss. On the shore, there is a vitrified fort which ^ill reward the curiosity of the visitor. This parish is a good deal connected with the Life and works of the poet Burns. • In the summer of 1788, he attended school in the village of Kirkoswald, where he seems to have been placed in consequence of his mother's connection with the parish, she being the daughter of Gilbert Brown, tenant in Craigenton. While re- 784 AYRSHIRE.^" siding at BallochneiU in this neighbourhood of the Tillage, he was not far distant from the fieirm of Shanter, then occupied by some of the characters whom he afterwards introduced into his tale of Tarn o' Shanter. The hero of the tale was Douglas Qraham» de- signed on his tombstone in the churchyard beside the village, by his fictitious name. Parochial Beffisters.^~There are roisters of births, beptismsy marriages, and deaths, all regularly kept Z«am2-ot0iieri.— The following is a list turnips for the Ayr and Glasgow markets. Coal. — The quantity of coal put out yearly at Dulzellowlie coal- work is about 60,000 creels or 1 000 tons of20cwts. each, the average value of which may be about L. 1750. The number of persons em- ployed is generally about thirty. It is understood that, about one hundred years ago, the coal there took fire (by accident) : but there has been no appearance of active fire, for the last thirty years ; and the working is now going on in the place where fire was last supposed to be, which proves it to be quite extinguished. The seams of coal are five in number, varying from 5 to 18 feet in thickness* Above 30 fathoms below the surface are working at present. The dip and rise of the coal-field is about a foot in three and a-half. Fishings. — Fishings of salmon, white-fish, and herrings are car- ried on in the parish to a considerable extent. Value about L.360 per annum. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State, — The whole population, with the excep- tion of five or six Dissenting families, belongs to the Established Church. The stipend, by a recent augmentation, amounts to 17 AYR. 3 D f 786 AYRSHIRE. chalders ; the glebe is 4| imperial acres in extent The manse was built in 177 J , and is in a good habitable condition. Education. — There are six schools in the parish, including one female school kept in the village of Kirkoswald. Salary of the parochial schoolmaster, L. 30 ; average yearly amoant of school fees, L. 45. The Kilkerran family has endowed one of the schools with accommodations, and a salary of L. 12 per annum to the teacher. Poor. — The average number of poor is 46; and the aver- age allowance to each Is. per week. The heritors contribute for their behoof about L. 1 10 per annum ; and about L. 40 per annum is derived from church collections. February 1842. PARISH OF LARGS.* PRESBYTERY OF GREENOCK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JOHN DOW, MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The learned author of Caledonia says that the name of this parish i; derived from the Scoto* Irish /rear^, signifying a/^/am, and that the same word appears in various other names of places in North Britain. The final «, the sign of the English plural, has been added in consequence of two places bearing the same name. This derivation is not, like the generality of Celtic names, very accurately descriptive, for there is no extent of ground in the pa- rish which can be called a plain. Some have supposed that the word also signifies Jields^ and that, as it was the field or scene of the celebrated battle with the Norwegians, the place has conse- quently been called the Largs. This is, however, purely fanci* ful, and is not consistent with fact, for the place bore the name of Largs long prior to the event alluded to* Boundaries and Extent. — The town of Largs lies in latitude 55° 49^ 30'' north, longitude 4"" 52' west. The parish contains about 87| square miles, or 24,160 acres. It lies along the coast of the Frith of Clyde for nine miles. On the north it is bounded by * Furnished by James Dobie, Esq. Beith. LAKG8. 787 the parishes of Innerkip and Greenock ; on the east, by Kilmal- colm, Lochwinnoch, and Kilbirnie ; on the south, by Dairy and West Kilbride; and on the west, by the Frith of Clyde. Its breadth is not much more than four miles. Topographical Appearances. — We cannot give a better or more accurate general account than that which is to be found in the se- cond Statistical Account of this parish In the former work. Vol. xvii. p. 503. ^^ No parish in the west of Scotland, and few in the Highlands, can afford such a variety of beautiful and romantic scenes. The hills, which begin to rise in the neighbouring pa- rishes of Greenock, Kilmalcolm, Lochwinnoch, Kilbirnie, and Dairy, meet in a kind of general summit at the eastern boundary of Largs, from which they gradually descend as they approach the shore, till they terminate at last in a variety of abrupt declivities, some of which are almost perpendicular, as if part of their base had been torn away by force. Notwithstanding the vast height of these hills, they are covered during the greater part of the year with verdure, and afford such excellent pasture for sheep, and some of them for larger cattle, as can hardly be found elsewhere in similar situations. ^^ The quantity of heath, even on the highest bills, is compara- tively small ; and, from indisputable marks, it appears that some of them have once been cultivated." Along the coast from West Kilbride to Kellyburn, there is a tract of rich land, the mean breadth of which is about a quarter of a mile. The tract narrows towards the north. To the east the ground rises abruptly to a very great height. The hill of Stake, which is the extreme boundary on the east, is 1691 feet above the level of the sea ; and to the south of that mountain Irishlaw stands 1576, and Knockside hill, 1419 feet above the same level. The half of the whole land in the parish is hill pasture, and oc- cupied as such. The temperature of the town of Largs, which is protected from the east winds by a range of high ground, is consi- dered mild and salubrious; and the situation has become a favourite and fashionable watering-place. The high grounds above Largs afford very delightful prospects. The admirers of nature need not travel out of this district in search of fine scenery, as few scenes can equal in rich variety what the enraptured eye of the beholder can witness from the grounds above Kelburn. There may be enjoyed the boundless store Of charms which Nature to her votary yields, 788 AYRSHIRE. The warbling woodland, the resounding shore. The pomp of groves, and garniture of fields. Climate and Diseases. * — The quantity of rain which falls at Largs has never been ascertained, but there is no doubt that it is considerable. A rain-gauge was kept for some time at the Bris- bane Obserratory, two miles from Largs, from which it appeared that the quantity which fell at Brisbane was very great. There is reason to believe, however, from the situation of the observatory, that showers frequently fall there, which do not reach the plain of Largs. The town of Largs is pretty much exposed to wind from all points, but it suffers only from the east and north-west The former comes down the Brisbane and Gogo glens, frequently with great violence, yet it is not found that these winds produce those pernicious effects on the health which are ascribed to them on the east coast of Scotland, the wind being dry and clear. Largs is, generally speaking, a very healthy place, the mortality in ordinary years varying from I in 50, to 1 in 65 of the whole population, ^ exclusive of strangers. To this rule there have been some excep- tions. In 1828, an epidemic dysentery prevailed throughout the whole of the west of Scotland, and added ten or twelve to our bill of mortality for that year ; and also in 1836 and 1837, an epidemic erysipelas, of a peculiarly intractable character, prevail- ed, and proved fatal in a considerable number of cases. In 1832, cholera appeared in three houses ; the number of deaths was five. To two of the houses it was brought by persons arriving from Glasgow, in the third instance it appeared spontaneously. In no case did it spread to the neighbouring houses. Typhus fever ap- pears in Largs occasionally, seldom spreading to any great extent, and for the most part confined to the poorer and worst lodged part of our population. Poverty, filth, and intemperance, will produce their usual effects on the physical and moral health in the healthi- est locality. The writer has long b«en impressed with the neces- sity of having a separate building for the reception and treatment of contagious diseases in Largs, and in all considerable towns and villages, where the patients would enjoy the benefit of thorough cleanliness and ventilation, and where the sick would be separat- ed from the healthy. In this way, he thinks, many valuable lives might be saved, and much misery prevented. The agricultural portion of the inhabitants are remarkably * This department has been furnished by Dr John Campbell, I..args. LARGS. 789 healthy. Those who reside in the town being generally weavers, and the females chiefly engaged in sewing muslin, and other se- dentary employments, are liable to the complaints and deteriora- tion of health incident to such occupations. These are, however, partly counteracted by cultivating patches of potato ground, sail- ing, fishing, &c. in which many of them occasionally engage. Largs has long been in high repute as a watering-place. From the end of May till the middle of October, there is an additional population, varying from 300. or 400 to upwards of 1000. Few places afford greater facilities for sea-bathing, it being easily prac- ticable to bathe at all times of the tide, and to obtain a proper depth by wading a few yards. The whole coast is perfectly safe. The sea-breezes are of a peculiarly bracing and invigorating charac* ter, and their salutary effects evident on crowds of annual visitors from the densely peopled towns of the interior. Although showers often fall, the whole plain on which Largs stands is singularly dry, from the pure gravel which forms the subsoil speedily absorbing the water, and rendering our roads and walks dry and pleasant a few hours after the heaviest rain. From the keenness of the easterly winds in winter and spring, it may be doubted whether the climate of Largs is ¥^ell adapted for patients liable to spitting of blood, or inflammatory affections of the lungs. In such cases, Rothsay is preferable. Yet phthisis is not a disease of frequent occurrence in Largs, the deaths from it seldom exceeding three or four annually. In some consumptive cases, when there is little tendency to inflammation or hemorrhage, the writer of this has seen decided amendment from a residence in Largs. Croup in some seasons has prevailed to some extent ; but for several years past, it has been of rare occurrence. No instance of wonderful longevity exists at present in the pa- rish, but the number of persons betwixt the ages of seventy and ninety-three is very considerable. Hydrography, — There are only two rivers in the parish which call for notice, the Gogo and the Noddle. The former rises in the south-east part of the parish, and falls into the sea at the town of Largs. The word is said to be Celtic, and signifies a branching river. It has accordingly various branches and tributaries, and its water is considerably augmented by that of the Greeto, which joins it about the middle of its course. The Noddle takes its rise in the north-east of the parish, and, after winding its way through the vale of Brisbane, falls into the sea about half a mile 790 AYRSHIRE. to the north of Gog«.* Both of these riters are noticed by Pont Of the former he says, •* Gogo fluvius, a small rifer running by the church of the Laigs," and of the other he merely says, " Nodle fluvius.*' The water of Rye takes its origin in this parish, near the source of the Gogo, but runs to the south through the parish of Dairy, and joins the Gamock at Ryesholm. A small streamlet runs to the west through the grounds at Kelburn, from which it takes its name, and on the south boundary of the .parish another stream, called Fairlybum, rises in the high grounds, and runs for about a mile, when it joins its waters to the Frith of Clyde, forming the boundary of the parishes of Largs and West Kilbride. To the north of Fairly, is a small stream called Kepping bum. The north-east of the parish is bounded by Routenbum, which rises at the Hill of Stake, and runs to the north. It is called by Pont *^ Rottin bume." Some fiinciful etymologists have derived its name from the routing or defeating of the Danes, as if it had been written rout- Dane burn, but this is not deserving of any seri- ous consideration. It is obvious that the name is descriptive of the noise which the water makes, when roaring through its rocky bed, especially after heavy rains. The northern boundary of the parish is Kellybum, which takes its rise in what was of old called " the Forret of Kyith, " and which was latterly called '* the back of the world. " It runs for near two miles, and falls into the sea at Kelly bridge, to the north of the grounds of Skelmorlie. There was formerly a small island opposite the harbour of Pair- lie. It is laid down in Bleau's map of Cunninghame ; but, owing to the recediqg of the water, the island is no more visible. At low water, there is a large extent of the channel laid bare between Fairlie and Hunterstone, and it has been thought that this land could, by a strong embankment, be entirely gained from the sea ; but, as this would not be a productive enterprise to the undertak- ers, it is hot likely to be attempted. Geology. — The geology of this parish is not interesting, llie lowest rock, visible in situ^ is old red sandstone, or old red sand- stone conglomerate, visible about Quarter on the one band, and Fairly on the other. Upon this old red sandstone, or sandstone conglomerate, is superimposed secondary trap, which forms the summit of the highest hills towards the sources of the Greeto, the * The bridge over Noddle being narrow, and high in the arch, was Uken dowQ> widened, lowered^ and rebuilt in 1824. LARGS. 791 Gogo, and the Noddle. The old red sandstone, in no instance, rises in this parish to nearly the elevation of the sources of these streams. The bed of secondary trap, here alluded to, may be traced from the German Ocean, throughout Scotland, to the island of Little Cumbrae, Arran, &c. In Little Cumbrae it is distinctly stratiGed, as may be seen from our side of the Frith, with an in- clination of about 10° to the west or south-west The same stra- tification of trap, on the lai^e scale, may be seen on the Clyde near KilpatricL Near Quarter, in this parish, is a small minia« ture coal-Geld, but not conformable, inserted in the old red sand- stone. This field is exposed on the beach. It consists of lime- stone and shale. The old red sandstone is here and there cut by dikes of greenstone, which pass into the superincumbent trap. Their direction is most frequently from north to south, or from north-west to south-east But to this there are exceptions, as at Fairly Brae, &c Few, if any, organic remains have as yet been discovered in the old red sandstone, and none in the trap. The other formations in the parish /are either diluvium or alluvium. The higher parts of the Noddle may be given as a locality for the first The site of Largs itself for the second. The first is no- where distinguished for fertility, but the second forms very fertile land ; while the soil, mostly formed from the disintegration of old red sandstone, is generally very barren. Coals have been looked for in the parish ; hitherto without suc- cess. The basis of our rocks are under the coal formation, pro- perly so called, and the superimposed trap only forms the rough basin in or on which the coal formation rests. One of the most interesting geological phenomenon to be ob- served in this parish, is the subsidence of the water of the Frith, or the elevation of the land. The one or other has been the case. The clifts near Quarter leave no doubt on this subject, as an in- spection of them will testify. A line of old beach rock, forty feet above the present high- water mark, shows that we must come to the one or other conclusion. The hill on Gogo, too, which marks one of the points of a meridian line, leads nearly to the same con- clusion, having most probably been deposited in still water by the istream when it was at least a quarter of a mile shorter, or, in other words, when the Clyde washed the base of the trap rocks near this place. ^ Others may settle this point ; but the matter referred to is well deserving examination.* * The department of tbis report on Geology has been furnished by Williaui Moat- 792 AYRSHIRE. Conckology, — There is at Lar^s a post- tertiary deposit, rich in subfossil shells, which the Misses Muir of^ Warriston have ex-> plored with great zeal. The number of species already found in it (though it was but lately discovered by Mr Landsborough of Ste- venston), amounts to sixty-eight. These are all scientifically ar* ranged, and, with a few exceptions, named, in the cabinet of the Misses Muir. Some of the rarest were sent to London to James Smith, Esq. of Jordanhill, who is fery distinguished in this de- partment of science ; and he and other metropolitan geologists and conchologists say, that two of thetn are new — hitherto unknown. They are Risso^, one of them reseoibling the Rissoa Harveyii of W. Thompson, Belfast The whole list would occupy too much space, so that we shall give only a part of it : Rissoa striatula cimex Mya truncata ...w.«« suborbicularis Tellina crassa Lucina radula .....^w^^^flexuosa Cyprina Islandica Venerupis virginea Cardium serratum lievigatum nodosum »^»*^*<» <0^<*m09<0t^wm^W0^* exiguuin Pectunculus pilosus Nixcula margaritacea Pecten opercularis Patella yirginea Trochus magus Natica Montagui Rissoa ulvc parva costata semi-costata subumbilicata calaUiisca PN»#Piy^ WlM#««W#i^Ma Striata labioaa ^^m^m^immwis m^^^mm^wtwm #^»W»»»W»ff Terebra reticulata Fusus nebula <«j»»»>»i«ir* unearis CyprsBa £urop«a Hiatella Arctica Phasianella subulata Bulla truncata, &c. There is a post-tertiary deposit at Fairlie, which is seen in the bank of the burn nearly as high up as the old castle. It has not been explored, but the shells which appear in the section of the bank are all of the common littoral kinds. Land and Fresh-tcater Mollusca. — Clausilia nigricans Balea fragilis Helix rotundata P#l^»W>^»>M»P aspersa Marine.'^ Lutraria elliptica Mya arenaria ^-^..^ truncata Lucina radula Tellina Ferroensis Venerupis puUastra Astarte compressa Mociiola vulgaris discors Helix nemoralis Helix bortensis Pupa muscorum .«^.«^ edentula Mytilus eduHs Cardium edule o^^^»M#^^»^g^^^JM*^^ ^v^mam^^mmmw^mm* echinatum Fusus HDtiquus Buccinum undatum Turbo littoreus Purpura lapillus Bulla minuta LimnaA limosa Cyclas comeus Pisidium obtusale, &c. Trochus cinerariua ..»«««...«.««. umbilicatus Turbo rudis Nerita littoralis Solen siliqua ensis Patella Tulgata pellucida ^ccrulea, ftc. »»#»»>»»<»<^»#^^ »>w*w»*»^r Botany. — There are some magnificent trees at Kelburn, firis* bane, Haylie, Fairlie, Southannan, &c. gomery, Esq. of Cloak. Those on Conchology, Botany, and Zoolooy by the Rev. I)avid Land5l)orough 6f Stevenston. The information under Parochial Economy and Industry was communicated by James Wilson, Esq. of Haylie. LAUGS. 793 Herbaceous Ploweri'ng Plants. — AsperuU odorau Parnaasia palustris Lithospermum maritimum Glaucium luteum Eryngium maritimum Teucrium chamaedrys Sobn um j Dulcaitiara Limoaella aquatica Convolvulus sepium Perns. — Asplenium trichomanes Osmunda regalis . adiaotum-nigrum Rapbaiius maritimus Geranium lucidum Hypericum andros»mum, Scolopendrium Tu1gare» &c. Mosses* — Bryum ligulatum Dicranum adiantoides Hypnum loreum *^^^^^ rostratum Polytrichuro urnigerum .,,,«.,.,.^>,.. triquetrum Tortula fiiUax ..^...«..,..,..«^ aloides ^1«.>.,^«, molluscum Dicranum heteromallum Hypoum splendens ,>...^,>»>>.^ purum w.*..*.*^,^**^ pellucidum „„^ .., alopecurum Bartramia fontana ..»■>■>.»> taxifolium Fontinales antipyretica, &c. ..^ «^ bryoides AlgtB* — Delesseria sanguinea Cbondrus crispus Entcromorpha compressa ,ruii...rr,„rirri.jj BiniKMHI mirfmssss,irTr^rrr^t^rr-r {ntffiMnAllff Odantbalia dentata Himautbalia lorea Porphyra vulgaris IridsEa edulis Ulva linza Draparnaldia glomerata, &e. Dnmantia filiform is Zoophytes, — Sertularia polyzonias Lepralia byalina Flustra lineata „....> .» puraila Flustra membranacea Crisia eburnea Lepralia coccinea Membranipora pilosa Laomedea geniculate >>>» >,>.. immersa >,.,>.»>>,> — > steliata Cellepora pumicosa ^■■«»,> nitida Flustra tuberculata Celiularia reptans. Zoology. — Mammalia. — There is nothing rare in this depart- ment. The following, however, may be mentioned : the fox, the polecs^t, the badger, the weasel, the ermine, the common seal, the otter, the hedge-hog, and martin. Ornithology. — Among the birds found are, the heron, the wild- duck, the common snipe, the jack-snipe, the curlew, the whimbrel, the woodcock, the common tern, the roseate tern, the lapwing, the buzzard, the kestril, the merlin, the sparrow-hawk, the long-eared owl, the solan-goose, the cuckoo, the blackbird, the thrush, the missel-thrush, the sky-lark, the red-wing, the goldfinch, the gray- linnet, the rose-linnet, the green-linnet, the robin-red -breast, the wren, the gray wagtail, the yellow wagtail, the chaffinch, the yel- low-hammer, the ox-eye, the blue tit-mouse, — besides grouse, blackcocks, partridges, pheasants, &c. II. — Civil History. It appears that Cunninghame was anciently formed of two dis- tinct territories. The southern and larger one was called Cun- ninghame, and the northern and smaller one was called Largs. King Malcolm IV. created Sir Richard Morville Great Constable of Scotlaodi and Lord of Cunninghame, Largs, and Lauderdale. 791 AYRSHIRE. The title and dignities of the De Morvilles passed in 1 196, by a female heir, to Roland, Lord of Galloway. On the death of Al- lan, Lord of Galloway, in 1234, the Lordship of Largs was inhe- rited by his daughter Dervorgill, who married John de Baliol, the father of John, the competitor for the Crown, She survived her hus- band, and during her widowhood granted to Robert, Bishop of Glasgow, the lands and pasture of Cunninghame, and the lands and pasture of Rysdale, with the pertinents, and twenty-four acres of land, which were commonly called Balolfslands, in her lordship of Largs, and a bovat of laud, with the pertinents, in her tene- ment of Largs. This grant was confirmed by Alexander II L* The most remarkable circumstance in the history of this place is its having been the scene of the battle between the Norwegians and the Scots, which took place on 3d October 1263. It is fo- reign to the object of this work to enter into the details of this conflict, nor is it now necessary, after the plain and authentic nar- rative given by Tytler in the first volume of his interesting and most valuable history. It is there cleared from all the exaggera- tions of the early historians and chroniclers. Instead of the 24,000 Danes and 5000 Scotch which, according to Boece, were slain at this battle, it appears that the whole force of the Norwegians that landed did not consist of more than 900, and that the Scotch army consisted of 1500. These were chiefly troops collected by the neighbouring barons, whose possessions were in more imme- diate danger of devastation from the enemy. The Scotch army is said to have been composed of the chief men of the west, yet it is singular that not one of the leaders should have had his name re- corded and sent down to posterity, but Peter de Currie, who bold- ly riding up, challenged the Norwegians to single combat, and was immediately killed by Nicolson, a Norwegian chief. The discom- fiture of the Norwegians was aided by the inclemency of the wea- ther, which King Haco attributed to witchcraft, and for the ap- peasing of which he had mass celebrated at Cumbray. The Nor- wegians seem to have fought with great bravery, and on the second day had put the Scotch to flight They were afraid, however, of the arrival of fresh troops and renewed vigour, and betook them- selves to their ships and boats, leaving the shore strewed with their dead, and with the wreck of their proud armament. King Haco died at Kirkwall, on his return to Norway. All subsequent con- * Chart. Glasgow, p. 457. LARGS* 795 tentions between his people and the Scotch were terminated soon after by the marriage of one of Alexander's daughters to Eric, the son and successor of Haco. An ingenious paper was drawn up on the subject of this battle and its localities, by the late John Dillon, Esq. a man of high ta- lent for research, and to whom the country is indebted for labours which have not been appreciated as they ought. It is published in the seventh volume of the Transactions of the Society of Scotch Antiquaries. He shows with plausibility that the landing of the Norwegians must have taken place between the south end of Bris-< bane Crescent and Fairlie burn, and that the conflict took place immediately below Haylee. We refer those who are desirous of studying the minutiae of this enterprize to Mr Dillon's paper, and to Mr TytlePs History. On the death of Dervorgill, the lordship of Largs fell to her son John Baliol, who forfeited the same upon the' accession of Bruce, who conferred this Lordship on his son-in-law, Walter, the steward of Scotland. Largs and Cunninghame continued sepa- rate districts, and are mentioned as distinct baronies in the charter of Robert II., settling the privileges of the burgh of Irvine, 8th April 1372. To this charter Hugo de Eglynton is a witness. It was during this reign that these baronies were placed under the charge of one bailie, and were subsequently called the Bailiary of Cunninghame, which has since formed the northern division of Ayrshire. The barony of Largs was afterwards parcelled out among the vassals of the Stewarts. The church and parish of Largs formed a rectory, the patronage of which belonged to the lordship of Largs. On the dOth of January 1318-19, Walter the Stewart, for the safety of his own soul and that of his late spouse, Marjory Bruce, granted the church of Largs in pure and perpetual alms to the Monastery of Paisley! The village of Largs was formed in the immediate vicinity of the church, and soon increased in population. In the reign of James I., a dispute arose between the Abbot of Paisley and Robert Boyd of Tinwald, who laid claim to the fruits of the church of Largs. The following letter passed under the privy-seal on this occasion, and proved the means of settling the dispute ; '* James, be the grace of God, Kyng of Scottis, till our lovid Robert Boid of Tynwald gretynge : Foralsmekill as we are informit the yhe adres yhou to be at the Kyrk of Largyss on Fri* 796 AYIiSHIRE. day nextocum, with a multitude of our liegess in feyre of were, in hurtyn and scath of our devote oratours, the Abbot and Covent of Passelay, brekyn of our crya and ofFens of our maiestie. Our will is, and straitly we charge yhou, gif it sud be, that ye desist tharof, and mak na syk gaderin, undyr all the hiest payne and charge ye may inryne agane oure maiestie, and gif ye haif achut aganes our said oratours folond thame as law wills. Gifwyn vndyr our pryve seill at Edinburgh the x&iiii day of Aprile, and of our regne xiiii yhers." — Chart. Pais. p. 245. Nothing remarkable occurs in the history of the place until 1647, when it was visited by the plague, under which it suffered very severely. Its appearance there is first noticed in the records of the Presbytery of Irvine, under date i29th June 1647, when ^' the referres of Largs were continued because of the sickness there ;" and, on the 17th of August, this sickness is said to be the plague. The minister was carried off by this disease ; and the state of the parish is thus noticed at the meeting of the 28th of September : ^^ The Presbiterie, laying to heart the lamentable and calamitous condition of the paroch of Largs, partly by reason of the hand of God that is lying heavy upon them, and partly by reason of the removal of their minister by death, thinks it expe- dient that Mr Wm. Lindsay be sent to visit them, and to take no- tice of their desires, and to enquire ane overture of themselves how they may be gotten helpit and supplied ; and the said Mr Wm. to make report of his diligence." On the 26th of October, the mi- nutes of Presbytery bear, *^ The laird of Bishopton having remon- strate the calamitous condition of the paroch of Largs, and the present necessity that the town of Largs was in, and that if it were not tymouslie removit and helpit, the people wald be forcit to break out athort the countrie. The Presbiterie, after hearing, ordains that these bretheren of the Presbiterie, who, upon the report of their present necessity, had already gathered something for supply of the same, should presentlie apply themselves for their relief, either in money or in victuall, as suld be thought most expedient, and that the rest of the bretheren sould use all possible diligence in collecting a contribution to be sent to them to refi*esh them in their necessity." The aid of the neighbouring parishes being called for, it ap- peared that the following sums had been contributed for relief of the calamity at Largs : — " From Newmylnes, L.vij lib. viijs. iiijd.; from Irvin, 200 merkes; from Kilmaurs, 1 hundrith two LARGS. 797 merks from Stewartoune, 1 hundrith eleven punds ; from Kil- winuingy 1 hundrith pound ; from Perston, 401b. viij raerkes." Other assistance was procured, and the distress of the people alleviated ; but the effect of this visitation was felt for a consider- able period. The population of the parish, at the date of this calamity, seems to have been greater than what it is now, as the number of com* municants is stated to have been 2000. The population decreased considerably. Besides those who were carried off, the alarm and excitement must have caused many families to leave the place ; and it was not until a comparatively recent period, that the tide of popular favour turned, and caused a gradual increase until the pre- sent day. Yet even now, with all the advantages, the resident number of communicants is not near the amount it had attained previous to the devastation. There was a proposal to reniove the church from the village to the south part of the parish, and, as the proceedings to accomplish this are not uninteresting, an abstract of them is lodged along with the MS. of this Account. The record proceeds, on 1st November 1649, to state, ** con- cerning the accomodation of the Largs, which is a wyd and spati* ous congregation, the perambulators did judge it expedient that the lands of Southanan, belonging to my Lord Semple, the lands of Corsbie, belonging to Auchinnames, sould be annexit to Kilbryde, because of their neirness to that kirk and farness from their own ; 2dfyf Because of the impossibilitie of building a new kirk within that paroch, be reason of the desolation of these partes ; and, Sdly, Because of ane impassable water betwixt them aind Largs." The annexation of these lands took place ; but the idea of trans- porting the kirk to the south of the impassable river Gogo was given up, and, a few years ago, a chape^ in connection with the Establishment, was built at Fairlie, near the place where it had been contemplated to erect the parish church. The difficulties of passing rivers no longer exist, — substantial bridges being now erected over every stream which crosses the highway. The bridge over the troublesome Gogo was carried away by a heavy flood in 1831 ; but a large and commodious one was speedily erected, and is likely to resist the power of the river for a long series of years. Land'Oumers — Rent — The valued rent of the parish is L.d802, which is divided among the different proprietors as follows : — 798 AYRSHIRE. KelburD and others, the Ear] of Glasgow, • L. 1274 11 8 Brisbane, Sir Thomas Macdougal Brisbane, . 805 8 8 Skelmorlie, the Earl of Eglinton and Winton, . 881 IS 4 Hawkhill, &c. Charles C. Soott, • . 874 6 8 Knocki John Wilson, . . • . 200 Hay lee, &c. James Wilson, . . . 182 Black House, William Stewart, . . 112 Hangingheugh and Bumside, Dr and William Lang, . 80 Routin burn, &c. John Lang, . . 74 6 Noddale, John Lade, . . 82 Kilburn, &c. Thomas Crawford, . . 47 6 8 Part of Constable Wood and Grass-yards, James Greig and John Bojd, 86 Auchendarroch, Robert Wallace, M.P. . 80 South Reillies, William Crawford, . 29 Harplaw, Alexander Crawford, • • 29 Part of Whittlie-bum, Robert Crawford, . 26 10 East Grass-yards, John Hare and James Scott, . . 86 Middleton, James Greg, • • 25 Gallowgate, Captain Morris, 16 L.8802 The real rental of the parish is L.7500 Sterling. Ancient Families. — Fairlie of that Ilk. — On the south of the parish lies the ancient barony of Fairlie, which belonged for up* wards of 400 years to a family of that name. In 1335, William de Fairlie is included in the list of twenty Scotchmen who receiv- ed letters of pardon from Edward III. for all the crimes they had committed in war with England, (Rot. Scot. Vol. i. p. 381). The family continued in possession of the estate until the beginning of the eighteenth century, when it was sold to David, Earl of Glas- gow, with whose descendants it still remains. The castle or square I tower is now in ruins. It is noticed by Pont in the following man- \ ner : ^* Fairlie Castell is a stronge toure, and very ancient, beau- tified with orchardes and gardins. It belongs to Fairlie de eodem, cheiffe of ther name." I Boyle of Kelburru — Richard Boyle, Dominus de Kaulburn, is mentioned in a transaction with Walter Cumyn, in the reign of Alexander III. ; and Robert de Boyville of Kelburn, and Richard de Boyville of Ryesholm, were subscribers of the Ragman Roll in 1296. Both of these properties have remained in the family since these dates. Kelburn Castle was originally a square tower ; but an addition was made to it by David, Earl of Glasgow. It is thus noticed by Pont: ^* Kelburne Castell, a goodly building, veill planted, having werey beutifull orchards and gardens, and in one of them a spatious rome adorned with a christalin fontane, cutte all out of the living rocke. It belongs heritably to John Boll, Laird thereof." Brisbane of that Ilk. — This family is acknowledged the chief of LARGS. 799 their name. In the fourteenth century, Donald Ear) of Lennox granted a charter of the lands of Mucherach and Holmedalmar- tyne, in the Lennox, to ^^ Alano dicto Brisbane, filio quondam Willielmi Brisbane.^' Chart de Levenax, p. 61.* Thomas and Alexander Brisbane are witnesses to a charter, in the thirty-second year of David II., 1361, granted at Kyndromy, by Thomas Earl of Mar, and which is confirmed by the King. Thomas Brisbane is wit- ness to a charter by Robert Duke of Albany, dated at Perth, 2'2d September 1 409. The earliest estate which seems to have belonged to this family was that of Bishopton, in Renfrewshire, which they held prior to 1400; and they had then acquired the L.IO land of Killincraig and Gogo in this parish. To these several additions were made; and in 1595 the whole were erected into the barony of Gogoside. Other possessions having been acquired by the fa- mily, the whole were, in 1650, erected into the barony of Nod- dle. Soon after this, having acquired the property of Overkel- soland, which long had belonged to the family of Kelso, the whole estate was, in 1695, by a Crown charter, erected into the barony of Brisbane. The House of Brisbane is situated in the vale of that name, and is of considerable antiquity, and surrounded with some fine old trees. The present proprietor, Sir Thomas Mac- dongal Brisbane is a man of high celebrity, as well for his valour in the field, as for his labours in the cause of science. He mar- ried the heiress of Makerston, in consequence of which he unites the name, honours, and estate of that family with his own. Frazer of Knock. — This family was a cadet of the Frazers of Lovat, and acquired the estate by the marriage of the heiress about 1400. They continued to flourish for about 250 years ; after which they declined, and the estate was broken up and passed into other hands. Pont says that *^ Knock is a pretty dwelling, seatted one the mane occeane, and veill planted." The ruins of the house still remain. The property now belongs to John Wilson, Esq. who, with laudable zeal, has recently adopted means to prevent the ravages of the climate on the venerable remains of what was once the " pretty dwelling" of the Frazers. Montgomery of Skelmurly. — The lands of Skelmurly in this pa- rish were, with other lands, given by Alexander, first Lord Mont- gomery, in 1461, to his second son, George, who married Ann^ daughter of Sir John Houston of that Ilk. The house is plea- santly situated on an eminence commanding a prospect of great beauty and extent. It is thus noticed by Pont: ^^ North Skel- * Contribution of Alexander Campbell, Esq. to the Maitland Club. 800 ATRSHIRE. murly is a fair veill built housse, and pleasantly seatted, decorred viiih orchards and woodes, the inheritance of Robert MontgODiery, laird thereof^ quho holds it of ye Earls of Glencairn/' The es- tate reverted by succession to the house of Eglinton ; and now belongs to Archibald William, Earl of Eglinton and Winton. Wilson of Haylie* — This family has existed since 1483, and the property has passed in regular male succession from that date to the present owner, James Wilson of Haylie and Quarter, &;c. Parochial Registers. — There is no regular record of births and baptisms prior to the Revolution, and long after that epoch the record was very imperfect. It has of late been better kept. Antiquities. — We have in course of this report taken notice in- cidentally of several of the most ancient buildings iu the parish. The principal remains of antiquity are those connected with the battle of Largs, in 1263. Immediately above Haylie, to the east, there is a small hill on which there are still visible the remains of an encampment It bears the name of Castle Hill. At the back of the mansion-house of Haylie there are the remains of a tumu* lus, which was doubtless erected over the bodies of those who fell in that conflict. It was called Margaret's Law; but this was pro- bably the corruption of some other name. The only other vestige which has withstood the changes of modern times, is the barrow close by the west wall of the burying-^ground, which corroborates the Norwegian account of their dead having been interred at the church. Near the spot now inclosed as the garden of Dr Cairnie, there stood a rude stone pillar, which was reputed as commemo- rative of the place where Haco, the Norwegian commander, fell. The stone has been built by Dr Cairnie in his garden wall, and now bears the following appropriate inscription : Substit. Hie Gothi Furor. Conditur hie Haco Steniensis, et undique, circuin Norv^ios fidos terra tegit Socios : Hue r^^um venere petenfees ; Scotia vietor Hostibus hie tumulos, praeixiia justa dedtt. Quarto ante nonas Octobris, a. n. 1263. Largis Ipsis Calendis Junii, a. d. 1828. Me posuit Joannes Cairnius illaxn Rem memorare tibi. Tu memores aliis. There is a small piece of land which was originally lying runrig in seven different parts called Breedsorrow. Pont gives the origin of the name thus, *' Breedsorrow is the possession of the laird of Blare, and being a small hamlet, it is so named, because of grate sorrow it bred amongst neighbours debettaing and contesting for ye heri- LABGS. 801 table right thereof." This place was also called Kempisland. Thus we find that, on 8th May 1610, John Birsbaneof Bishopton, was served heir of his father, Robert Birsbane, in the six shilling eight penny land of old extent of Breedsorrow, alias Kempisland ; and in 1639, Sir Bryce Blair of Blair was served heir-male to his iather, Bryce Blair, in the same subject. This change of *proper« ty proves that Font's account must have been written between these two dates, as is generally supposed. Similar names occur in different parts of Scotland, having the same apparent origin, where there had been kemping, striving, contending, or fighting, such as Kemp's fold, in Caputh parish, Kemp's Castle near Forfar. See Jam. Diet, voce Kemp. The Skelmorly aisle of the old church, with the monument erected by Sir Robert Montgomery, and the painted adornments of the ceiling, are still nearly in the same condition as they were in 1793. It is an object which attracts and well merits the attention of the curious in the progress of art in this country. It is entitled to careful preservation, being unquestionably the most magnificent sepulchral design at present extant in the west of Scotland. III. — FOPULATION. The following table shows the progressive increase since 1755, but the contrast with the population of the early part of the seven- teenth century, as elsewhere noticed, is remarkable. In 1755, the population was 1164 1790, iiao 1801, 1381 1811, 1801 1821, S479 1831, 2848 1841, 3554 The enumeration under the plan of the late census was 4054, but of these 550 were strangers. The population'attached to the district or qtioad sacra parish of Fairlie, is 450, which is included in the return for 1841, as above stated. From the inquiries made for the Church Commission, it appears that the religious statistics may be thus classified : BeloDgiDg to the United Secession, 600 Roman Catholics, 140 Relief, ... 100 Laaviag to the Establishment and for those who do not belong to any church, . • • • 2214 8054 AYR. d E 8d^ AYRSHIRE. Tlie following is a pretty accurate enumeration of the various trades in Largs and Fairlie. Weavers, 246 Sawers, 6 Masons, 89 Carters, 16 Shoemakers, 35 Dyer, 1 Joiners, 30 Grocers, . 23 Cabi net-makers. 5 Licensed public houses. 30 Tailors, 17 Writers, 3 Black&miths, 16 Suri^eous, 2 Bakers, , 8 Stationers, 8 Drapers, 6 Fleshers, • 8 Tinsmith, 1 Fishers, 32 Saddlers, 2 Gasman, 1 Nailers, 2 Slaters, 3 Coopers, 3 Ship-carpenters, 10 Ironmongers, 2 Painters, 3 Hair-dressers, 2 Flasteiers, 2 Watch-makert, 1 IV. — Industry. The lands of the parish, although stated to amount to 37| ^uare miles, and of course 24,160 acres, yet the actual survey of the parish only amounts to 19,143 acres, which may be divided as follows, viz. In tillage, - - - 1145 acres. In pasture and meadow, • - - 3300 Green pasture, - .... 5500 Woodlands and Gardens, - - - 600 Moorlands and heath, - - . - 8598 19143 I>educt from this Blair park, belonging to Blair of Blair, now said to be in Dairy parish, although in all former Statistical Accounts, and agreeable to the original boundaries, stated and laid down as belonging to Largs parish, .... 1400 Total of Largs, - 17743 Husbandry, — The rotation of crops upon the lands in tillage, including the hay crop, is commonly a six years rotation, '[st year, oats ; 2€[y green crop ; 3^, oats, wheat, or barley, according to the nature of the soil ; 4M, hay ; 5th and 6th, pasture. Wheat of late has not been much sown, and that only on heavy lands. The rotation of the lands lying near Largs and Fairlie is generally a four years shift, owing to the nearness of manure. Flax is now so little cultivated, that two flax-mills in the parish, one at Constable wood, the other at Gogoside, have been allowed to fall into ruio. The number of milk cows kept in the parish is about 604, all of the very best Ayrshire breed. The farmers at a distance from the town make cheese with all the cream or skim-milk cheese and butter, while those near the town eithet* sell all their milk to the inhabitants, or churn all their milk, make butter, and supply the town with butter-milk* The young cows reared yearly amount LAKGS» S03 to about dOO; cattle fattened about 484: sheep kept upoR tb^ high lands, about 46809beside8 a few English sheep on some of the low lands : the number of horses about 130, and of horses rearing about 80 ; the old practice of hiring horses is now almost exploded. Swine are very generally kept. Great improvements have been made, and are in progr^s upon the different estates and farms in the parish, within these few years. Upon Kelbum estate, Mr Johnstone, the active and intelligent factor of the Earl of Glasgow, has more than doubled the value of many of the parks ; he has also added much to the beauty of the estate, by plantations, laid off to great advantage. Upon Bris« bane estate, much also has been done about the mansion-house, ii) extending the lawn, by removing the old garden, and in making'a new approach. The tenants have also been doing a great deal in draining and bringing in waste lands, particularly the tenants of Bankhead and South Whittleburn. The tenant of south Con- stable wood has done much in that way ; the tenant of Quarter has also, within the last year, drained twelve acres upon the most ap- proved plan. The proprietor cuts the drains and quarries the stones, the tenant carts the stones and fills the drains. The drains when furrow, and at the distance of 12 feet, are, at the sur- face, 20 inches, 2^ feet deep, and 10 inches at the bottom; the stones thin, and all set upon their edges, and covered with broken metal to within 9 inches of the surface. The leading or principal drains are never less than 2^ feet deep, 2 feet wide at the surface, and 14 inches at the bottom, when set; when piped, not less than 20 inches at the bottom ; the depth of the leading drains depends upon the nature of the soil. Mr Wilson of Knock, by laying out a very considerable sum in bringing in waste lands, draining, liming, planting, making roads and bridges, has not on* ly beautified that estate, but more than doubled its value. Cap- tain Alexander Montgomery, R. N., well known in the district for his laudable zeal in all institutions calculated to advance the com- fort and improve the condition of the farmer, has much improved the lands of Bridgend, upon the estate of Skelmorlie. Mr Stew- art has also improved his lands of Blackhouse, and Mr Lang, his lands of Routenburn. The tenant of Auchengarth upon the Third- part estate has also done much in liming and draining. Quarries. — In the grounds of Haylee, there was a quarry of excellent sandstone, from which the greater part of the newly erected houses were built ; but, being exhausted, a new quarry has 804 AYRSHIRE. been opened on the Earl of Glasgow's grounds to the sootfa» which affords the present supply. Manufactures. — The only public work is that recently erected at Bankhouse, by Mr Geprge Henderson. V. — Parochial Economy. Since the commencement of the present century, no town in the county has been so completely enlai^ged and remodelled, nor its environs so much beautified with villas, the most of which are in a superior style of architecture. A few of the old tenements still remain, and exhibit a very humble appearance when compared with those of modern construction. The only building of a public character is the Baths, which contain, besides hot and cold baths, a spacious billiard and reading-room. Villagea. — The only village in the parish is that of Fairlie, which is pleasantly situated on the coast, at the south end of the parish. There are several handsome villas set down, and the spot is so attractive and retired, that many prefer it to Largs* Both are most desirable places, having all the charms of nature in her pleasing variety : — *' Where smiliag spring its early Tisit pays. And parting summer's lingering bloom delays.** Means of Communicaiion. — Since the last Statistical Account of the parish was written, an excellent new turnpike road, across the moor, from Largs to Kilbirnie and Dairy, has been made, which has been of the utmost benefit to Largs. Lime to any extent can be had at Hourat lime- work, a distance of about seven miles, for 10s. the chaldron ; and the landed pro* prietors and tenants have not failed to take advantage of it. Coals are also brought from the pits in these parishes, a distance of about eigl^ miles ; the price at the pit is ds, 4d. for fourteen hundred- weight. A parish road has also been made through the Vale of Brisbane to the boundary of the parish, near Loch Thom, which joins the Greenock parish road. This road is of much benefit to ^he farmers on the line, and general traveller, as it shortens the distance from Largs to Greenock about two miles. There are in all thirteen miles of turnpike, and eleven miles of parish roads. Harbour. — When steam-boats began to ply between Glae^w and Largs, the want of a harbour was much felt in the landing of passengers and goods. Upon application to Sir Thomas Mac- dougal Brisbane, Bart*, he agreed to give the ground for a pier, *to take shares for the price, and to extend the boundaries of the harbour from Haylie to Noddleburn ; a subscription was entered LARGS. 8*05 tnto ) an act of Parliament applied for, and obtained in May 1833 ; the foundation stone laid with masonic honours, 10th January 188<% after the work was in considerable progress. It was first used) 1st December 1834. The cost was L.4275y which is held in L.50 shares. The number of shareholders is 31. The ave- rage revenue, for the last six years, has been six per cent. The benefit it affords, in landing and shipping passengers and goods, &c. is very great. Ecclesiastical History, — The church of Largs was dedicated to St Columba, the celebrated Abbot of lona, and was a rectory, the patronage of which belonged to the lordship of Largs. We have evidence that this churrh existed long prior to the battle of Largs, in 1263 ; and in the Norwegian account of that expedition, we are told that a number of the dead were buried at the church« On 30th January 1318-19, as has been previously mentioned, Walter the Stewart, for the safety of his soul, and that of his spouse, Marjory Brus, granted to the monks of Paisley the church of Largs, in pure and perpetual alms, with all the tithes thereto pertaining. This grant was to take place at the death, or resig- nation, or promotion, of Sir William de Lindsay, the rector of the said church. On the dd of February following, the chapter of Glasgow, during the vacancy of that see, gave to the monks of Paisley, formal possession of the church of Largs, and the chapter of Glasgow granted a charter of confirmation to the monks of their title to the church of Largs, from Walter the Stewart John Wishart, who was made Bishop of Glasgow in 1319, granted and confirmed, to the monks of Paisley, the church of Largs, and the chapel of Cumbray, with all their pertinents. This chapel was in the island of Great Cumbray, opposite to the southern part of the parish of Largs, but in the shire of Bute. The church of Largs continued to belong to the monastery of Paisley after the Reformation. At that epoch, the tithes of the church of Largs, with those of the churches of Inverkip and Lochwinnoch, in Renfrewshire, in all produced to the monks of Paisley, L.460 a-year, having been let in lease for payment of that sum. In 1587, Lord Claud Hamilton, the commendator of Paisley, obtained a grant of the patronage and tithes of the church of Largs, with the other revenues of the monks of Paisley, the whole of which was then created a temporal lordship, for him and his heirs, with the title of Lord Paisley. He was succeeded, in 1621, in all those estates, revenues, and titles, by his grandson, James Earl of Aber- i 806 AYRSHIRE:. corn. In Charles L's reign, the patronage and tithes of the church of Largs passed from the Earl of Abercorn to Sir Robert Moot- gomery of Skelraorlie, who, in 1636, erected, in an aisle on the north side of the church, a handsome burial-place and monumenti of which some notice is elsewhere taken. Lilias Montgomery, who became the heiress of Skelmorlie, by marriage, in 17d5, car- ried the patronage and tithes of the church of Largs to Alexander Montgomery of Coylsfield. Their son and heir, Colonel Hugh Montgomery of Coylsfield, succeeded to the Earldom of Eglinton in 1796; and his grandson, Archibald William Earl of Eglinton and Winton, is now patron of the church of Largs. Immediately after the Reformation, we find that in 1567 David Neil was exhorter at Largs, with 40 merks of stipend, and in 1576, Alexander Callendar was minister, his stipend being L.134, 6s. 8d. Scots, with the kirk land of Kilbryde, and that David Neil was then reidare, his stipend L. 16, with the kirk land, &e. In 1598, William Cole was minister. He appears as one of the subscribers to the letter of admission in favour of Alexander Camp- bell to the kirk of Ardrossan. Mr Cole was succeeded by Tho- tnas Craig, who was minister in 1635, as appears from a decree of locality of stipend obtained at his instance, in that year. The next minister of whom we have notice is William Smith, who died of the plague. He was buried in a sequestered spot near Brisbane House. Over his grave is a flat stone with this inscription, *' Here layeth William Smith, minister of Largs, a faithful minister of the gospel, removed by the pestilence in 1646." The inscription was renewed in 1710, and again in 1760. In 1672, John Wal- lace was appointed along with Alexander Gordon, under the se- cond Indulgence; but, having been charged with transgressing the rules,, he was called before the council, and treated with more than usual severity.* Mr Wallace was a man of some means, * The following sooount is givpn by Wodrov, Burnb' edttion. Vol. iii. p. 5. ** Ls^t year, in NoTember, Mr John Wallace indulged at the Largs, and Mr Patrick Simp- son indulged at Kilmalcom, had been cited before the council for breaking their confinement. Mr John Wallace appeared, and was remitted to the commiuce for public aflkirs. And this year, February 15th, I find the council again call Mr Simpson, and upon his non- compearance they order him to be denounced. What kept him from compearing I know not, but it hath been some necessary exciue, for I know he continued several years after this in the peaceable ezefcite of his ministry in that place. Mr John Wallace is called before the council* February 18th, and no probation being adduced as to his breach of his confinement, he deponed upon ibe ▼erity of his libel, and frankly told them how matters stood, as to thiil praetiet con- xnon to him and his brethren. It was but few of the council were for depriving him of his indulgence upon this score, and so other occasions against him were sought ; and being called in after he had l>een removed, the council interrogated him, as they iay, for the further clearing of his deposition, thoughj as far as I can find, bis dcpo* LARGS. 907 In 1666, be acquired the lands of Monkcastle and Craigmill from John Hay, and transmitted them to bis family, who sold them in 1703 to Mr Adam Cunninghamei advocate. He was succeeded in Largs by Mr Charles Littlejohn. Fountainhall, states that» *^ on his pursuing Montgumerie of Skelmurlie for his stipend, the chancellor had this expression, that the ministers were the persons in the kingdom that deserved worst at his Majesty's hands/' Mr Littlejohn was succeeded by Mr John Wilson, who was ordained 26th December 1697. He had been previously settled in Ireland, and received a call to Kilmarnock, but declined to accept. He was succeeded by Andrew Cuming, who was ordained 27th Sep- tember 1701. He remained in the charge until his death in 1762. Patrick Wallace was ordained his assistant and successor on 10th August 1748, but, having predeceased him, Gilbert Lang was or- dained to the office on dd August 1756. He died in 1791, and was succeeded by Stephen Rowan, who was ordained 15th May 1792, and died 4th June 1601« His successor was John Mitchell, M. D., who was ordained 22d April 1802. In 1826, he was ap- pointed Professor of Divinity in the University of St Andrews, and on his removal^ was succeeded by Jacob Richardson, who was ordained 28th September 1826, and having died 6th October 1830, was succeeded by the present incumbent, who was ordained 28th April 1831. By the decree of locality at Mr Craig's instance in 1635, it ap- pears that the lands of Southanan, Whiteside, and Corsby, were in the parish of Largs, and after their disjunction and annexation to Kilbride, the stipend of the parish was 8 chalders and 8 bolls victual, for stipend and communion elements. This stipend con- tinued until after the death of Mr Rowan, when Dr Mitchell got an augmentation in 1807, of 43 bolls meal, and 43 bolls barley, with L.8^ 6s. 8d. of communion elements, so that the whole sti- pend was 13 chalders, and 14 bolls of victual, and L.8, 6s. 8d. of money. The stipend is now 128 bolls meal, 128 bolls barley, and L.10 money, to which it was moditied 7th July 1830. The church and parish were in the Presbytery of Irvine until 1834, when they were transferred to the newly formed Presbytery sition bad no connection with this *■ whether he would for the future refuse to give baptism to the children of such parents as took the bond for public peace ?* This be- ing new to him, and what he did not understand the design of, craved thai he mij;ht be spared b» to such things as related to the discharge of his ministerial office. He ia presently removed, and the council decern him to have lost the benefit of his indul- gence at the Largs, or any where else ; and appoint their sentence to be intimated to the parishioners, that they may pay him no more stipend. I do not find th^ in« dulged ministers were before challenged upon this score.** 808 AYRSHIRE. of Greenock. At Fairlie, a chapel in connexion with the Esia* blishment was erected by private subscription in 1898» opened in 1834, and erected as a quoad sacra parish in 1886. It C0DlaiD§ 300 sitters, and affords great accommodation to the inhabitama of that district of the parish. The first minister of this congregation was James Gardiner, who died in 1885, and was succeeded by the Reverend John Gemmill, A.M., the present minister. The church was removed from the burytng^ground situated in the centre of the village, and a new one built, in a more open and eligible situation in 1812. It was seated for 900, but, being found too small, particularly for the extra population of the summer, cross aisles were added to its eastern extremity in 1882, which accom- modate 482 additional sitters. This addition was made from fiinds belonging to the poor, and the seats are annually let out, and the rents yield a good return, which adds to the ordinary funds ex- pended by the kirk-session. The manse stood formerly in the immediate vicinity of the old church, and near the site of the Brisbane Arms Inn, now belonging to Mrs Strachan. It was sold by the minister and heritors in 1764, when the present manse and offices were built on part of the glebe. The house has been recently repaired, and is a comfortable and commodious residence. The glebe consists of seven acres. Dissenters. — A congregation of the United Associate Synod was formed here about 1780. Their first minister was William Wat£:on, who was ordained 15th January 1788. He was translated to Old Kilpatrick in 1789. In December 1791^ John Leech was ordained as his successor, who demitted, and died in Glasgow in 1622, being succeeded by Daniel Maclean, who was ordained 22d October 1828, and deposed 29th November 1829. He was suc- ceeded by the present minister, William Steven, who was ordain- ed 31st August 1880. The church was rebuilt in 182«, and is seated for nearly 700 sitters. There is also a comfortable manse for the minister. A^congregation of Relief is now being formed. A small meeting- house has been erected, capable of containing 450 sitters ; but hitherto no minister has been ordained. Education* — There was a parochial school in 1696, with a sa- lary of 100 merks, but no school-house. In 1809, a comfortable school and schoolmaster's house were built by the heritors. The present schoolmaster is Alexander Jack, who has under his charge 1 15 scholars. Sir Thomas M. Brisbane has recently, at the ex* LARGS. 809 pense of L, 850} built a Gommodious school and schoolmaster'g house, and has endowed the school to the extent of L.80 yearly, vesting the nomination of the teacher, and the general manage'^ ment and superintendence of the institution in the family of Bri»^ bane, and the minister and kirk-session of Largs. His sole ob* ject is to secure to the children of the working* classes, education in the common branches of learning, at a reasonable rate. This adds a fresh laurel to the well-earned fame of the honourable founder, and it is hoped will prove a grateful monument to his me* mory for many ages. The school is well attended, and gives fait promise of utility. There are in the parish three other schoolsi besides one at Fairlie, and a female school, which are well taught The total number of scholars is 428. Poor and Parochial Funds, — ^The funds for support of the poor arise from the collections at the church door, the seat rents of the addition made to the church, and fees of proclamations. The average amount is about L.247. The number of paupers on the permanent roll is 40, besides 13 orphans. The highest allowance is 10s., the lowest 5s. monthly. There are others who receive oc*- casional supply. Libraries, — There are two circulating libraries, which contain the standard histories, and the popular works of the day. - There is also a congregational library attached to the church, and a so- ciety for the distribution of religious tracts. Gas^Work. — A gas-work was erected in 1888, the capital being formed of shares of L.5 each. The streets and houses were 6rst lighted in 1839, and the parish church has recently been fitted up^ and gas is now used at all evening exercises held there. Banks. — There is a branch of the Western Bank of Scotland^ and one of the Paisley Commercial Banking Company, which have been found of great utility, as, previous to their being esta- blished, the inhabitants were obliged to travel to Greenock or to Beith with all their bank transactions. Fairs. — As previously mentioned, the ancient church of Largs was dedicated to St Columba, whose festival was commemorated on the 9th June. This fair is still held here on the second Tuesday of June, O.S., and Is vulgarly called Combsday. It used to be fa- mous all over the West of Scotland, and multitudes came to it, especially from the Western Highlands. The night previous to the fair was spent in frivolous amusement, which frequently ended in riot. This is no longer the case. The attendance has greatly fallen 810 AYRSHIRE. off iD consequence of the general diffusion of merchandise by steam^boats, which carry to the islands of the west the comforts of civilized life at all periods of the year. The fair is still of consi- derable importance as a market for young cattle^ which are brought from the Highlands, and bought by farmers and graziers. Miscellaneous Observations. After the plague broke out, Largs suffered most severely, and the common people were reduced to great distress. Soon after* wards, some cases of reputed witchcraft occurred in the parish ; but, on enquiry, the charge was found groundless, and the accu- sation passed away. The following remarkable incident is given by the celebrated gossip. Law, in his Memorials, p. 245 : ^^ Aprile 1683. At the Largs, in the west of Scotland, a man at hisplbugh knocks down his servant man, taying the horse, immediately goes home, his wife asking for the servant man, he gives her a rough answer. She goes out to look after him ; ere she returned he hanged himself. She coming in with a child in her arms, seeing her husband hanging, fell down on the ground and the child in her arms, with the fall broke its neck, — a sad spectacle." In the early part of the last century, Largs gradually recovered from its depression ; but the population were generally averse to strangers, incomers being looked upon in an unfavourable light After the place became the resort of summer visitors, a new population was engrafted on the old stock, and the extension of the town and the building of villas in its vicinity produced a great improvement. Largs now vies with its neighbours in all the duties of hospitality and good neighbourhood, and the society is cheerful and friendly among themselves. The better classes are attentive to the poor, and, in seasons of distress and privation, are always ready to give relief. The gentlemen of Largs and their visitors have been much in- debted to Mr Caimie of Curling Hall, for the sport they enjoy in summer at bowling upon his beautiful bowling-green, and in winter for the national, manly, and exhilarating game of curling upon his curling-pond, designed and constructed by himself on a new and scientific principle, by which ice is formed fit for use in one night, when the thermometer stands at dS"" of Fahrenheit, at 14 feet of elevation above the surface of the ground. Hence this sport can be enjoyed here earlier and more frequently than in the usual places of resort for this pastime. The game of billiards is another source of amusement, while, to those who prefer the enjoyment of r KILWINNING. 811 nature, the walks in the neighbourhood, either along the beach or through the adjoining groves and plantations, afford an unceasing source of pleasure. In these respects it must be admitted, that this favourite place of resort is unrivalled in the westof Scotland. -^rt71842. PARISH OF KILWINNING. PRESBYTERY OF IRVINE, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. ARCHIBALD BLAIR CAMPBELL, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. NamBj Extent^ Ifc* — Kilwinning takes its name from St Win* nin, a Scottish saint of the eighth century, to whom the ancient church of this place was dedicated. The greatest length of this parish, between the borders of Beith and Stevenston, is about 7 miles, and its greatest breadth, between the borders of Ardrossan and Irvine, is about 5 mile9. According to Aitken's map, pub- lished in 1828, it contains 17^ square miles, or 11,200 acres. It is situate in Cunninghame, the northern district of the county of Ayr, and is bounded on the west by Stevenston and Ardros- san ; on the east, by Dunlop, Stewarton, and Irvine ; on the south, by Irvine and Stevenston ; and on the north, by Dairy and* Beith. The^figure of the parish is very irregular. Its surface gra- dually slopes upwards from the south-west to the north-east, and is varied by gentle undulations, but nowhere rises to any conside- rable elevation. It is intersected bv the vallevs of the Garnock ! and Lugton ; the former, open and cultivated ; the latter, more narrow and woody. The view from the upland district is exten- sive and beautiful, sweeping down the vale of the Garnock, on the one hand, and on the other, over the woods of Mountgreenan and Eglinton to the sea, and embracing the towns of Saltcoats, Ste- venston, Kilwinning, and Irvine, the bay and headlands of Ayr, the rock of Ailsa, the Mull of Cantyre, and the serrated range of the Arran mountains. SoiL — The soil in the higher and central parts of the parish, is 612 AYRSHIRE. generally a thin day^ not fertile or productiTe, especially where the surface water has not been remoyed by tile-drainiog, thougii nearly the whole is under the plough, except what is occupied by plantations of forest trees. A better description of clay land is found on the slopes towards the river Garnock ; and along its mar- gin are some good loamy fields. From the town of Kilwinning towards the sea, there is a porlion of light sandy soil, well culti- vated and fertile. To the eastward, near Auchentiber, there re- main probably sixty or seventy acres of a peat-bog, which was for- merly much more extensive, a considerable part of it having been reclaimed and improved in the course of the present century. Climate. — The climate of this parish, like that of the west of Scotland in general, though mild, is moist and variable. Amongst the endemic diseases engendered by it, the most prevalent is rheu- matism, in all its forms. The peasantry who labour during the winter months at tile-draining, and other field work, often suffer from it severely, as well as aged and poor people in the town. Con- sumption is not unfrequenU In the town of Kilwinning, fever, typhui mitior^ very often occurs, and is more endemical than in the neighbouring towns. Epidemical diseases, which are not more common than in other places, are generally very mild, and easily yield to medical treatment. In 200 cases of scarlet fever, attend- ed by one practitioner during the year 1837, only five deaths oc* curred. On the whole, the inhabitants of the parish enjoy an or* dinary length of days, and share of good health. Hydrography. — The most considerable stream in this parish is the Garnock. It rises in the hills above Kilbirnie, about twelve miles from the town of Kilwinning, which it intersects, and, after a remarkably circuitous and serpentine course through the low lands to the west, falls into the sea at the same point with the river Irvine. The Lugton, a small stream, flows out of Loch Libo, id Renfrewshire, enters this parish near its eastern extremity, and, after passing through the woods of Mountgreenan and Egliuton, falls into the Garnock, about two miles from the sea. The Caaf water, also a tributary of the Garnock, forms part of the boundary line, for a short distance, betwixt this parish and Dairy. At Craighead mill, it falls over a rock of considerable height, and forms a pretty little linn or cascade in a narrow wooded delL There is a sheet of water, about a mile and a-half to the north- west of Kilwinning town, called Ashenyard, or Ashgrove Loch. It is not of great extent, and part of it is included in Stevenston. KILWINNING. 813 in the town and Deighbourhood, an ample supply of the finest spring-water is obtained, as is almost invariably the case, through-* out Scotland, around the sites of ancient ncionasterief, or other re- ligious houses. Geology and Mineralogy^* — The coal formation extends through- out the whole of this parish. The strata dip to the south, forming an angle with the horizon of from eight to twelve degrees. They are intersected by a number of whinstone dikes, running from east to west, and varying in thickness from five to twenty feet. These dikes cut the strata, without altering their general inclina* tion, except when accompanied by slips, which is sometimes the case. Where there are no dikes, slips also frequently occur, breaking the continuity of the strata, while the difierent beds re- tain their relative positions, at different levels, and continue their course with the same inclination which they had before meeting with the slips. These slips vary in height from a few inches to ninety feet, and almost always run in an easterly and westerly di- rection. The outburst of the main coal, which is the lowest in the series of coals above the limestone, passes from west to east* nearly through the centre of the parish. It is four feet thick, and of good quality. Above this are seven other workable seams, in the following ascending order, viz. the stone*coal, 3^ feet; ell coal, 2^ ; Ladyha coal, 2\ ; little coal, 2^ ; turf*coal, 3 ; parrot- coal, 3^ ; and five-quarter coal, 4 feet thick. They are situate at the respective distances from the main coal, and from each other, of 5, 10, 1^^ 48, 3, 2^, and 11 fathoms. AH are of good quality. The seams, at present wrought at the different collieries, are the following, viz. at Doura, the ell and stone-coals ; at Fer- gushill, the stone and main coals ; at Eledstone, the stone*coal ; and, at Eglinton colliery, the Ladyha, ell, stone, and main coals. It is worthy of notice, that, on the western side, the bed of main coal is longitudinally split by a layer of shale, a few inches thick ; but, to the east of Fergushill, and all through the lands of Doura, this layer increases in thickness to some fathoms, dividing the main coal into two distinct seams, of about two feet in thickness each, and, on this account, unworkable. Throughout the whole extent of Doura lands, and part of Fergushill, the four upper seams of coal have been but partially excavated, and are not wrought at present. A seam of coal, of rather inferior quality, * Th« information under this bead has been kindly fumisbed by Mr A. Kenoett, tacksman of the Eglinton colliery. 814 AYRSHiaE. 2^ feet in thickness, is found at the depth of sevea fatlwmw below the limestone. It was partially wrought, some years ago, at Monkredding and Mountgreenan. Other seams are supposed to exist lower down, haying been found in contemporaneous strata, in the adjoioing parishes. Beyond the outburst of the main coal, limestone is found, appearing near the surface at Bunnach, Lylestone, Cloobeath, and Mountgreenan. Where it has been worked, it is fiye feet thick, and of good quality. It runs below the main coal, at a distance from it of about 70 fathoms. At Cartleburn, one mile to the north of the town, a bed of limestone, eighteen feet thick, is found cropping out. It has sometimes been wrought, and is of good quality, being almost entirely com* posed of fossil shells. The working of this bed was con6ned to the above locality, the outburst not having been found in any other place. Ironstone bands, -it is not doubted, might be found in abundance in connexion with the- limestone beds, but have not been explored. They are seen, however, in corresponding strata on the Ardrossan shore, where they are numerous, and some of them are of the black'band kind, so much prized by ironmasters. In some of the shales which intervene betwixt the coals, fossil vegetable remains, chiefly of the fern tribe, are found in great abundance. Balls of ironstone, iu great quantities, and of various sizes, likewise occur, and also fossil shell-fish, generally mussels, with their shapes as entire and well-defined as if gathered alive upon the shore. The nature of the various soils has been already adverted to. The subsoil generally, throughout the parish, consists of a tenaci- ous blue clay, thickly interspersed with boulders, chiefly of whin* stone, and of various sizes. In some parts, a bed of gravel is found above the blue clay and stones, and above the gravel a deposit of clay, entirely free from stones. It is used for making draining- tiles and building-bricks. Zaoloffy,^^ Among the mammalia may be mentioned liUtra vii/- ffaris, the otter, a most successful salmon-fisher, occasionally de- tected poaching in the Garnock. From the near neighbourhood of the Irish Channel, the seafowl which frequent it are often seen in this parish, the rarer descriptions of which may be found speci* fied in the Statistical Account of Stevenston. The following is a list, imperfect, we fear, of the rarer birds that may be found in this parish : — 3 KILWINNING. 815 Alauda arborea Pyrrhula vuigaris Anas cr^ca Alcedo ispida Phasianus colchicus Sturnus vulgaris Rallus aquaticus Cinclus aquaticus SoolofMix gallinula ■>„,»>« crex Anas penelope Saxioola oenanthes. Pike and perch are found in Ashgroye I^och ; salmon and sal- mon-trout in the river Garnock. The fisheries in this stream were much more productive in former times than at presefft. The pro« gross of agriculture diminishing the supplies of pabulum for the fish, the increase of population augmenting the number of poach- ers, together with the prevalence of stake-net fishing along the *shore, near the mouth of the river, are causes which may, in part, account for this change. The river now yields no rent, and is preserved for angling, but seldom affords much sport to the dis- ciples of Isaac Walton. Botany. — List of some of the rare plants found in the parish : Lepidium Sinithii Nuphar lutea Anagallis tenetia Sedum telepbium (Knantbe crocata Polygonum butorta Lysimacbia vulgaris Cicuta virosa Veronica scutellata ^„.^^,.^>>„ thyrsiflora Campanula latifolia Asplenium tricbomanes Droaera rotundifolia Gnapbalium germanicum ..»» ^»^ tbalypteria Nartbecium ossifragum Scirpus sylvaticus Hypnuro auriscalpium, Nymphsa alba Senecio Sarcenieua &c The finest forest trees in this neighbourhood are in the park at Eglinton. They are of unknown age and large size, consisting chiefly of oak, elm, and beech, which last predominate. The park is of great extent and thickly wooded, and beyond it considerable plantations have been formed by successive Earls of Eglinton, during the last seventy years. The mansion-houses of Mount- greenan, Monkcastle, and Ashgrove, are also surrounded with thriving plantations of different ages, and a considerable part of the parish is thus sheltered and ornamented. II. — Civil History. I am not acquainted with any work except the former Statistical Account, devoted exclusively to the history of this parish, It is noticed in Timothy Font's " Cunningham Topographized," (MS. Avocates' Library,) and in Chalmers's Caledonia. A full account of it is given in Robertson's Topographical Description of Cun- ninghame. The records of the regality of Kilwinning are preserv- ed in the Register- Office, 'i'he chartulary of the monastery has unfortunately been lost The history of the parish begins with that of the patron Saint, from whom it derives its name. * In the calendar of Scottish * For tbe following notice of St Winning, and some others relating to tbe anti. 816 AYRSHIRE. Saints, the date assigoed to St Winnin or WiDDing, is 715) and his festival was held on the 21st of January, on which day, O.S. there is still an annual fair held here, called St Winning's day. In Font's MS. it is said, that '^ Vinnin was a holy man wich came from Irland, with certane of his discipells and followers, and heir taught the Gospell ; the place of his residence retaining still ye name Killvinnin, ye church or cell of Vinnin, unto quhome, as to a notable sante, ye superstitious posterity dedicated." In the Pro* prium Sanctorum, a different parentage is given to St Winnin, as he is there said to have sprung of a noble family in Scotland, He was famous for his power in curing diseases, and for his control over the elements. In the parish of Holy wood, a fountain of pre- cious virtue sprung up on his intercession, and remained in repute until the beginning of the sixteenth century. A spring of 6ne water, a little to the south of Kilwinning manse, which still bears the name of St Winning's Well, was also celebrated for its vir* tues. But St Winnin could curse the waters as well as bless them, for on one occasion, when the river Garnock would not yield up any of his fish to one of his angling friends, the saint pronounced a malediction, on which the river ^^ left its bed, and followed an- other course adverse to nature."* The fame and sanctity of St Winnin led to the building of the splendid monastery, near the site of the more ancient church of this place. According to the commonly received account, it was founded in the reign. of David L, a. d. 1140, by Hugh de More- ville. Constable of Scotland, the chief benefactor, if not also the founder, of Dry burgh Abbey. In the Pont manuscript before quoted, however, a different origin is assigned to it, and the date of the foundation, or perhaps the completion of the buildings, is placed in the year 1591 : *^ It was foundit by a noble Englich- man, named Sir Richard Morwell, fugitive from his owne country for ye slaughter of Thomas Beccket, Archbichope of Canterbury rey, (being one of them), in the raine of King Henry IL of Eng- land, quho, flying to Scotland, was, by the then Scots King" (Malcolm IV. he elsewhere affirms), ^^ velcomed and honoured with ye office of grate Constable of Scotland, as also inriched with ye Lordships of Cunninghame, Largis, and Lauderdaill, quhosse quitiea of the parish, I am indebted to James Dobie, Esq., Beitb,^^ geDtleman rich in antiquarian lore, and most obliging in communicating inlbnoation, and graniii^ access to bis valuable library. * Proprium Sanctorum, fol. S8. For an account of a change in the course of the Garnock, to which this tradition applies, see New Statistical Account of Stevenston. RtLWINNING. 817 posterity for divers generattODs possessed ye said office and Iands» Now ye forsaid Richard being, as yald seioie, touched with com- puDctione for ye safty of hes soule, (according to the custome of these tymes), did found this Abbey of Kilvinnen, in testimony of hes repentance ; and first of all did bulde ye queir or cancel! of ye said Abbey Church, endowing it with diyers lands, as namely, the the 80 lb. land of Kilvinnen, after this tennor, Damus forrestam Bostram de Kilvinen, ibidem deo servientibus ad pascendum por- cos eorum et ad excindenda ligna ad constructionem Monasterii, una cum decimis tergorum tarn cervorum quam damarum euisdem ferrestae. Also, Alicia Loncaster, viffe to ye said Sir Richard, with consent of her said husband, dottes, in puram et perpetuam elimosinam the land of Bytth, Batth, and Threppe-wood to ye said Monastery. Item, Dorathea de Morvil, daughter to ye said Sir Richard, and vyfTe to Philippus de Horssey, accomplished ye fa- brick of ye said monastery, and hes sone, Dominus Valterus de Horssey, conGrms to them ye same, and ye said foundatione, with ye donations and mortifications thereto belonging, is confirmed by Pope Honorius the 2^. An^. 2^^. pontificatus sui. These dona- tions and foundatons ar also confirmed by King Alexander III. ; as also by Jocelinus Dei Gratia humilis Glasguensis Ecclesiae Minister Auctoritate Episcopali, &c. The reveneus of this ab« bey ver grate, and maney by (over and above) their proper lands. The founder therof, Sir Richard Morvill, layes interrid in the new cemetery of this church, under a tome of lymestone, framed coffin-vayes, of old polished vorke, without any superscriptioune or epitaphe. The structure of this monastery wes solid and grate, all of freestone cutte ; the church faire and staitly, after ye mo- dell of yat of Glasgow, vith a fair steeple of 7 score foote of height, zet standing where I my solve did see it." It is diflBcult to suppose that Pont, who refers in another part of his work to *^ old records of ye monastery of Kilvinnen," and here quotes the original charter of De Morville to the monks, should yet be mistaken as to the individual member of that family who founded the abbey. If the common accounts, however, of the reign of Malcolm IV. are to be relied on, it closed in 1 165, and consequently he could not receive the murderer of Thomas a Becket, for that prelate was not slain till 1 170. His murderers, we are told,* retired at first to Knaresborough in Yorkshire, which belonged to De Morville; from whence they repaired to Rome * Mosheimy Eeclesiastioal History, Vol. ii. p. 401. McLean's note. AYR. 8 F 818 AYRSHIUE. for absolution, and, being admitted to penance by Alexander II I^ were sent by the orders of that Pontiff to Jerusalem, and passed the remainder of their lives upon the Black Mountain, in the se- veral acts of austerity and mortification. Pont says that the grants of the De Morville family to Kilwinning were *^ confirmed by Pope Honorius II. A**. 2^^. pontificatus sui;" but the death of that Pon- tiff, according to Mosheim, (Vol. ii. p. 393), happened in 1130. In Morton's Monastic Annals of Teviotdale (p. 290), the mur- derer of Thomas a Becket is said to have been the uncle of Hugh de Morville, Constable of Scotland, whose family became extinct 1196 (Do. p. 59). It is highly improbable, indeed, that a sacrt-* legions assassin should have been welcomed by the Scottish mo- narch, and invested with lands and authority, at a period when the power of the Church of Rome bad reached so great a height. It is possible, however, that Richard de Morville, son of Hugh, Con« stable of Scotland, may have founded the Abbey of Kilwinning in the latter part of the twelfth century, and that Pont, misled by that name, attributed the work to the murderer of Becket, and re- presented it as the atonement made to the Church for his crime. The date 1140 is adopted by the learned author of *^ Caledonia;'- but he does not give his authority, and the matter is involved in some obscurity in consequence of the loss of the chartulary. Though the founder and the date of the foundation be thus uncertain, it is known that the abbey was richly endowed by dif- ferent members of the De Morville family. Successive monarch^ and noblemen, also, ** for the health of their souls," and some- times for relief to the souls of their ancestors, contributed by their pious benefactions to increase its revenues. The estates belong- ing to it included nearly the whole land in the parish of Kilwin*- ning, and various properties in the parishes of Dairy, Beith, and Kilmarnock. At the Reformation, the revenue of the monastery* exclusive of these property lands, amounted to L.880, Ss. 4d« Scots; 67 chalders, 9 bolls, 3 firlots of meal ; 14 chaiders, 1 bollf 3 firlots, 3 pecks of bear ; 8 bolls 1 firlot of wheat ; 4 hogsheads of wine; 13 stirks; 140 capons; 100 hens; 268 cheeses; and 9 fathoms of a peat stack.* To the abbey belonged the patronages and teinds of the following parishes, subject to the burden of sti-» pends for the regular clergy, viz. Kilwinning, Irvine, Kilmarnock, Loudoun, Dairy, Ardrossan, Kilbirnie, West Kilbride, Beitb, * Former Statistical Account and Beitli papers. MS. collection by Jamei Dobi^ KILWINNING. 819 Doolop^ Draghorn^ Stev^istooy and Stewarton, all in Cuouiog- ham; Dumbarton and Kilmaronock, in Dumbartonshire; South and North Knapdale, in Argyll ; Kilmory and Kilbridoi in thd Island of Arran. The monks of Kilwinning were originally brought from Kelso^ and were called Tyronenses, from Tyron^ in the diocese of Char- tres, where their order was first settled under St Bernard. It would appear that the usual artifices by which superstition was encouraged and confirmed in the Roman Catholic church, were not neglected by the occupants of this monastery. The fountains which had been blessed by St Winning continued in high repute, and one of them was believed to give warning of the approach of war, by flowing with blood on such occasions. R. Hoveden and Benedictus Abbas relate a portent of this kind as having occurred in the year 1184. ^^ In eadem vero ebdomada qua rex in Anglia applicuit, quidam fons aquae vivae, juxta ecclesiam sancti vinini, in occidentalibus partibus terrae regis Scotiae, infra Cuninham, non longe a Castello de Irevin, mutatus in sanguinem, manavit puro sanguine per octo dies et totidem noctes sine intermissione. Et dicebant indiginae quod simile portentum ibidem contingere solebat contra effusionem sanguinis. Sed numquam antea tarn diu mana- vit ibi sanguinis manatio."* This fact was mentioned by Lord Hailes, among the miscellaneous occurrences in the first volume of his Annals of Scotland. He was, in consequence, accused of credulity by the critics ; and, in a subsequent edition of his work, he declares, that '^ the author must still remain under that impu- tation, for he cannot submit to acknowledge that he does not be- lieve that a fountain, near Kilwinning, ran blood for eight days and eight nights, without intermission.'' A recent occurrence tends to prove the truth of the story, and to vindicate the stubborn faith of the learned Lord. In 1826, when the square or green, in the town of Kilwinning, to the west of the monastery, was being levelled, the workmen came upon an old leaden pipe, about an inch in diameter, which ran from the walls of the building, in the direction of a fine spring, now called Kyles Well. This pipe had a considerable descent, and could not have been used for the purpose of drawing water from the well to the abbey. Through it, therefore, in all probability, blood, or some liquid resembling it, had been caused to flow into the fountain, and thus the credu- * Ben. Abbasy page 406. 820 ATRSHIRB. lily of the people was imposed upon, by the appearance of a ni* racle, which served to enhance the fiune of tl^ monastery, and the power of its priesthood* Few of the abbots of Kilwinning attained to much celebrity, or are noticed in history. One of them swore fealty to King Edward in the year 1296, and another, more patriotic, fell, with his soTe« reign, on the fatal field of Flodden. The last of the order, GaTin Hamilton, was the most distinguished. He was frequently eiD- ployed, by Queen Mary and her party, in offices of great tni&ft and responsibility. In 1566, he was admitted an extraordinary Lord of Session, on the Queen's letter. He appeared in her cause at the battle of Langside, and was among the coomiissioners at York, in 1568, for settling disputes between Mary and Eliza* both. In 1571, he was declared a rebel, in a Parliament held by the Regent Lennox, and, in the same year, lost hb life in a con-* flict, at Restalrig, near Edinburgh, between the Earl of Morton and the Queen's party. Gavin Hamilton, and his immediate predecessors in office, fore- seeing the fall of the Roman Catholic Church, considerably dir lapidated the revenues of the abbey, by conferring grants of its lands on their friends or relations. What remained at the Re* formation was annexed, with all other church lands in the country, to the Crown. The King gave the office of commeodator to Alexander Cunninghame, third son of Alexander, commonly cal- led the good Earl of Glencairn. He was bound to pay the sala* ries of the reformed teachers, in the parishes that held of the ab- bey, but appears to have been unwilling to recognize this obliga- tion; for, in 1581, he was denounced and put to the horn, by John Boyd, ^* reider at Kilmarnock," for non-payment of his stipend. Imitating the example of the last Popish abbots, he conferred the estate of Mountgreenan, a valuable part of the abbey lands, on his son Alexander, in whose family it remained for several gene- rations. In 1592, the whole remaining abbacy, or halydome, was erected into a temjporal lordship, in favour of William Melville of Raith> then commendator, who soon after transferred his riglfts to Hugh, fifth Earl of Eglinton. By charter from the Crown, in 160d» these possessions were confirmed to the Eglinton family, in whose hands they still remain. In 1560, the Estates of Scotland passed an ^* act for demolishing such cloisjers and abbey churches as were not yet pulled down.'* The work of havoc was intrusted in the western Lowlands, to the 4 KILWINNING. 821 ^rl of GleDcaira^ who, mindful of the dictum of Knox^ *^ pull down the nests, and the rooks will fly away/' destroyed that stately and splendid fabric, whose elegant remains still silently point to the sky. A part of the Abbey church was afterwards repaired and fitted up as a place of Presbyterian worship. It continued in use till 1 775, when it was removed, and the present parish church was built on its site. The ^^ fair steiple,'' which Timothy Pont did see, remained till 1814, when it fell from natural decay. It was a huge square tower, 32 feet on each side, and 103 feet high. The following year, a beautiful tower about the same height, and 28 feet square, was erected on the same situation, and separate from the church. Th^ south gable of the transept, and one of its finely proportioned arches, a Saxon gateway, and some mouldering walls, are the only indications and memorials now extant of the once splendid results of superstitious piety and Italian art The following is a list of the ministers of Kilwinning from the time of the Reformation : 1. William Kilpatrick. In the '* Register of ministers and their Stipends sen the yeir of God 1567," his stipend is said to be L.80, and in the ** Buik of Assignationis of the Ministeris and Reidaris stipendis" for the year 157G, it is given as L. 100, with the kirk- land of Kilwinning. A ^^ reidare" at Kilwinning was at the same time allowed a stipend of ^' L.20, but without kirkland." 2. Alexander Wryttoun. In 1598, he subscribes an admission in favour of Mr Alexander Campbell to the kirk of Ardrossan. In 1606, he was infeft in a house in Kilwinning. 3. David Barclay is mentioned as minister and parson of Kil- winning in 1609. 4. John Glassford, whose name occurs in the records of the regality of Kilwinning in 1619. He is mentioned in the preface to Fergusson's Sermons as one of the ^* eminent, learned, and pious men" who had laboured among the congregation at Kilwin- ning. 5. Robert Baillie, afterwards the celebrated Principal of the University of Glasgow, and author, besides other works, of those letters and journals which throw so much light on the history of his own times. In 1622, he received Episcopal orders from Arch- bishop Law of Glasgow, and became tutor to the son of the Earl of Eglinton, by whom he was presented to the living of Kilwin- ning. The exact period of his incumbency here is not ascertain* 822 ATRSHIUE. ed. In I6269 he was admitted a regent in the College of Glas- gow, and, having opposed the new ecclesiastical arrangements of Archbishop Laud, he was chosen to represent the presbytery of Irvine in the famous General Assembly of 1638. 6. James Fergusson, of the family of Kilkerran, esteemed by his contemporaries as a man of great piety and learning. He was invited to be Professor of Divinity in the University of <31asgow, but modestly refused. His works are, an *^ Exposition of the Epistle to the Galatians, Ephesians," &c. and a volume of sermons, de- livered at Kilwinning in 1652, entitled, ^< A Brief Refutation of the Errors of Toleration, Erastianism, Independency, and Separa- tion." This work was published after his death. He died about the year 1666. 7. Ralph Rogers. Under the first indulgence in 1669, he was admitted' to Kilwinning, having previously been one of the minis- ters of Glasgow. He was translated in 1684, but to what oflSce is not ascertained. 8. George Meldrum was admitted in 1688. He was chosen to be Professor of Divinity in the University of Glasgow. On the 25th March 1691, Principal Dunlop appeared at the Presbytery of Irvine, and urged them to proceed to his translation. In the meantime, he received a call to be one of the ministers of Edin- burgh, which he accepted. He edited the sermons of his prede- cessor, Mr Fergusson, and his preface is dated Edinburgh, 1692. 9. George Chalmers was admitted in 1696; and in 1717, be- came Principal of King's College, Aberdeen. 10. Alexander Fergusson was admitted in 1721, and died 1770. A few years before his death, he was prosecuted for heresy by James M^Connell, town-drummer of Beith, an account of which process may be seen in the Scots Magazine of the time. 11. Thomas Pollock was admitted in 1770, and died in 1798L He was author of the former Statistical Account. 12. William Ritchie, D.D. previously minister of Tarboltoni was admitted in 1798^ was translated to Glasgow in 1802, and thence to the High Church, Edinburgh, and to the Divinity Chair in the University of that city. 13. James Steven, D.D. from the Presbyterian chapel. Crown Court, London, was admitted in 1803) and died in 1824. 14. George Colville was admitted in 1824, and translated to Beith in 1831. KILWINNING. 823: 15. Archibald Blair Campbell was admitted in 1831. Masonry* — The art of executing very large and magnificent buildings in timber frame-work was carried to high perfection in the northern countries of Europe during the tenth, eleventh, and twelfth centuries. Owing, however, to the perishable nature of the materials, and to accidents by fire, these buildings were frequently either destroyed, or reduced to a state of extreme decay ; so that the ruinous state of the ecclesiastical edifices in the northern parts of Europe became a serious subject of inquiry at Rome, and mea- sures were taken to obviate the grievance. The Pope created se- veral corporations of Roman and Italian architects and artisans, with high and exclusive privileges, especially with a power of set- tling the rates and prices of their labour by their own authority, and without being controlled by the municipal laws of the country where they worked. To the various northern countries, where the churches had fallen into a state of decay, were these artists deputed. In consequence of the exclusive privileges conferred upon them, they assumed to themselves the name of Free Masons, and under this title became famous throughout Europe. These corporations, from their first origin, possessed the power of taking apprentices, and admitting into their body such masons as they approved of in the countries where their works were carried on.* A party of these foreign artisans, aided by such workmen as they found in Scotland qualified to join them, are said to have con- structed the monastery of Kilwinning. The architect or master mason, who superintended and carried on the work, was chosen master mason of the meetings of the brethren all over Scotland* He gave rules for their conduct at these meetings, and decided finally in appeals from all the other lodges in the kingdom. From this period, down to the fifteenth century, little is known of the history of masonry. It is acknowledged that Kilwinning continued to be the head-quarters of the order. In the notes to a French poem. La M&connerie, published at Paris in 1820, p. 151, it is said, that ^* Jacques Lord Stewart recus dans sa lege a Kilwin en Ecosse, en 1286, les Comtes de Glocester et Ulster, Tun Anglois, Tautre Irlandois.'' King James 1. of Scotland, eminently distin- guished for his knowledge and taste in polite literature and in the fine arts, not long after his return from England, patronized the mother lodge of Kilwinning, and presided as grand master, till * P. F. Tytler*s Hist, of Scotland, Vol. ii. pp. 305, 006. 824 AYESHIBC. he settled an anDual salary, to be paid by every master mason in Scotland to a grand master, chosen by the brethren, and approvcxl by the Crown. It was required that this grand master should be nobly born, or a clergyman of high rank and character. He had his deputies in the different counties and towns of Scotland* Every new brother paid him a fee at entrance. He was empowered to regulate and determine such matters in dispute, between the founders and builders of churches and monasteries, as it wonld have been improper to bring before a court of law. King James II. conferred the office of grand master on William Sinclair, Eari of Orkney, and Baron of Roslin. By another deed of the same King, this office was made hereditary in this very ancient and il- lustrious family. Earl William and his successors, Barons of Roslin, held their head courts, or, in the style of masonry, as- sembled their grand lodges at Kilwinning.* The mother lodge continued in possession of the highest authority, and granted char- ters of erection to other lodges, till the year 1736, when the Lord of Roslin, hereditary grand master, assembled thirty-two lodges in Edinburgh, and resigned all right or title which he possessed* or his successors might claim, to preside over the masonic order throughout Scotland. His resignation being accepted, the Grand Lodge of Scotland was constituted, consisting of representatives from other lodges throughout the kingdom, in whom was vested the right of legislating and of granting new charters, or confirming old ones, for the whole order, for which purposes a general meet* ing is held, and office-bearers are elected annually. This usur- pation was resisted for a time by the Kilwinning brethren, who continued to 'hold independent meetings, and to grant charters as formerly, till the year 1807, when the dispute was amicably settled, and the mother lodge relinquished her ancient privileges, joining the general association, along with the lodges which held of her.f Archery. X — It is well known that, in former times, the bow and arrow were used in war throughout the whole of Europe. By one or more of the old acts of the Scotch Parliament, the young men in every parish were strictly commanded to practise archery for an hour or two every Sunday, after Divine service. After the inven- tion of fire*arms, archery was laid aside, as no longer useful and necessary in war. Though for this reason it was disused in most * Former Statistical Account. f Robertion^s Cunningfcanie, Appendix. X From the former Statistical Account. KILWINNING. 825 Other places in Scotlaody it has been practised here as an elegant and manly amusennent, almost without any interruption, to the pre* sent day. At the same time, the laws and usages of the Company (the term used for the society), are known, and that too very im- perfectly, only by tradition, prior to the year 1488. This d^te is acknowledged and rendered authentic by a minute in the records, dated September 1688. This minute is signed by a number of gentlemen of the most respectable characters. From this time, archery has been practised annually, at a certain stated time of the year, generally in the month of June. The species of archery in use here is of two kinds. The one is a perpendicular mark, cal- led a papingoe. Tlie papingoe is a bird known in heraldry. It is on this occasion, cut in wood, fixed in the end of a pole, and placed about 120 feet high, on the steeple of the monastery. The archer who shoots down this mark is honoured with the title of Captain of the Papingoe. He is master of the ceremonies of the succeed- ing year, sends cards of in?itation to the ladies, gives them a ball and supper, and transmits his honours to posterity by a medal, with suitable devices, appended to a silver arrow. The prize irom 1488 to 1688 was a sash, or as it was called a benn. This was a piece of taffeta or Persian, of different colours, chiefly red, green, white, and blue, and not less in value than L. 20 Scotch. This honour- able badge was worn by the captain, which he kept, and produced another of equal value the following year. At the revival of arch- ery in 1688, there was substituted a piece of plate, which conti- nued to be given by every captain till 1723. The other kind of shooting is for prizes at butts, point-blank distance, (about twenty- six yards). The prize at butts is some useful or ornamental piece of plate, given annually to the Society by the senior surviving archer. Tournament. — In the month of August 1839, a celebrated tour- nament was held at Eglinton castle by the present Earl of Eglin- ton and Wintoun. Accounts of it have been published, with picto- rial illustrations of the armour and costume worn on the occasion. This romantic attempt to revive the sports and pageantry of ancient times was made on a magnificent scale, and it is supposed that 50,000 or 60,000 persons, of all the varied ranks of society, were assembled to witness the gorgeous spectacle. Though the park was thrown open to this promiscuous multitude, no wanton mis- chief was done to a single object, nor was an intoxicated individual seen within the gates. The tournament was held during two days; 826 AYRSHIRE. but our limits forbid us to enter into any detail of its splendid scenes, either on the tented field, or in the balls of the castle where so many of the fair and brave of ^^ high degree" were as- sembled to hold high festival. The courtesy and liberality of the noble Lord of the tournament were universally felt and acknow- ledged. Parochial Registers. — The earliest minute of session is dated 12th March 1656, since which time, with the exception of a few intervals, they appear to have been regularly recorded. The re- cord of baptisms begins 27th April 1669, and that of proclama- tions, 14th July 1676, and both are continued, with few interrup- tions, to the present day. In recent times, the register of births is far from being complete, and there is none of deaths or burials. Modem Buildings^ Sfc — The chief of these is Eglinton Castle, a large and handsome house, suitable for the residence of the mu- nificent and hospitable family to whom it belongs. It was built in the end of last century by Hugh, twelfth Earl of Eglinton. The park in which it stands is spacious and well-wooded, and stocked with deer. The gardens are extensive and beautiful. There is an elegant mansion at Mountgreenan, built about thirty years ago by Robert Glasgow, Esq. Monkcastle and Ashgrove are also fur- nished with suitable residences. There are four mills for grinding corn, and three saw-mills in the parish. III. — Population. The population in 1755 amounted to 2541 1792» 2S60 1801, 2700 * 1811, . 3291 1821, 8606 1831, 3778 1841, . 5251 In the town, 1841, families, 630 males, 1447 females, 1524 In the eouotry, families, 387 males, . 1210 females, 1070 Total number of families^ 1017 The ayerage number in each family is 5.15 Of the rural population, about 800 reside in collier villages and hamlets. The chief causes of the great increase since 1831, are the for* mationof the Glasgow, Ayr, and Kilmarnock Railway, and the ex* tension of the collieries in the immediate neighbourhood of Kil- winning, and at Fergushill, where a village containing upwards of KILWINNING. 827 200 people has sprung up within the last few years. "There are at present a considerable number of labourers employed in the construction of the Kilmarnock branch of the railway, who are not permanently connected with the parish ; and when it is finished, the whole population will probably not amount to more than 5000. The number of proprietors whose annual rental is L.50 or up- wards, is 35. Of these, the only persons of independent for- tune resident, are the Right Honourable the Earl of Eglinton and Wintoun; William Millar, £s.q. of Monkcastle; George Crighton, Esq.; and Miss Bowman of Ashgrove. There are three individuals deaf and dumb in the parish, two iatuous, and two blind. There is no smuggling. Poaching is carried on to a small ex- tent. IV. — Industry. About one-third of the whole population are employed in agri- culture ; about one-fifth in mining ; probably another fifth are la- bourers, shopkeepers, and artisans ; and the remainder are hand- loom weavers. A great proportion of the females in the town sew the Ayrshire needlework, at which they can make a tolerably com- fortable living. Affricvlture.-^The farms generally are very small, many of them not more than 50 acres. The average extent may be stated at 80 acres. But from the character of the soil, and the extreme- ly undulating nature of the surface^ the land is not well adapted for large farms. They are cultivated chiefly by the farmers them- selves and their families, — both those which are rented, and such as belong to the occupants, of which there are a considerable number. About one*third or one-fourth is generally under crop. The rest is in pasture. There is a considerable extent of moss in the upper district of the parish, which can scarcely be regarded as improvable, as the soil is too poor to yield a profitable return for the capital that must necessarily be expended. I cannot specify the number of acres under wood, but they must amount to a good many hundreds, and some of the timber in Eglinton Park is very fine. The kinds of trees that chiefly abound are Scotch fir, larch, ash, elm, and oak. There are many very large old beeches at Eglinton, but this species is not now planted. The manage- ment of the wood is upon the whole good. 828 AYRSHIRE. The arerage rent per acre of arable land is L.1, 15s. Tbt average rent of grazing a cow or ox is ImA^ 10s.; a ewe and lamb, L.I. The farm-servants are of two descriptions,— those who live and board in the family of their master, whose wages average L^ 16 per annum, — and those who are married, and li?e on, or in the neighbourhood of, the farm on which they are employed. The latter have a house and garden provided for them, receive 6 bolls of oatmeal, 4^ bolls of potatoes, their coals driven, and L. 14 in money, amounting jn all to Lk25 or L.dO per annum. They are generally well treated, and very comfortable, though few in num- ber. Female servants engaged for the dairy generally get, in ad- dition to their board, L.10 yearly. When men are employed for a short period only, they are paid 9s. a week in winter, and l:^s. in summer. Masons, carpenters, and other artisans usually re- ceive 15s. weekly. Live'Siock. — There are not many sheep kept in the parish. The common breed is the black-faced, but there are also a few of the Leicester and Southdown kinds. The cattle, almost uni- versally, are of the Ayrshire Dunlop kind. The horses are of the Clydesdale breed. Much attention has been paid to the im- provement of the sheep and horses, with considerable success. But the cattle, though better kept than they were twenty years ago, have become inferior to what they then were. The general course of husbandry pursued, especially in the poorer soils, is to take two white crops and six years' pasture. While in richer laud, they only graze for the space of four, threes or two years, when the soil will admit of it. This was the plan universally followed, and the land was never cleaned, until, seve-* ral years ago, green-cropping was introduced, and on the richer soils the tenants now observe a four year's rotation, viz. oats, green crop, wheat, and grass. A great part of the parish, from being an extremely tenacious, wet, and unproductive clay, is unsuitable for this metliod of cultivation. It is all capable, however, of vast improvement by draining, liming, and manuring, and much is doing in this way. Indeed, the whole of this district, at the present rat6» will be tile-drained in ten years. There are the greatest facilities Cor improvement, as there are lime and tile-works in the parish, and the leases generally are for the term of nineteen years. The inclosures are in good order, as the tenant is bound to keep then KILWINNING. 829 in repair, but tbe fkriii'Steadings, for the most part, are ill-plannedi limited in accommodation, and ineoDreDient. Quarries and Mims^ — The coaUmines are, Doura, FergushiJI, Redstone, and Eglinton, which employ 220 miners, whose wages are, for each man, 4s. per day. The price of coal at the pit mouth, is 5s. per twenty cwt* From these collieries are exported annually about 50,000 tons at the harbour of Ardrossan, the greater portion of them to Ireland, some to the Mediterranean, and a few to the Highlands. There are two limestonof and one sandstone quarry, at which a considerable number of men are em* ployed. V. — Parochial Economy. The nearest market-town to Kilwinning is Irvine, which lies, towards the south, at the distance of three miles. The male inhabitants of Kilwinning are chiefly employed in weaving and mining; the females in sewing. The only individuals found necessary for keeping the peace are one of the county police and a sheriff-officer. The town has a fine and picturesque appearance from several points of view. It is situated on the banks of the Garnock, about four miles from its mouth, is sur- rounded by a considerable quantity of wood, and receives additional beauty from the ruins of the abbey, and a very handsome modern tower. The higher parts of it also command an extensive and varied prospect, including the bay of Ayr, and the hills of Arran, as well as the neighbouring country. The town itself, however, has not much to recommend it. It consists chiefly of one narrow street, about a mile in length, but the two portions at tbe extremities are somewhat detached ; that towards tbe west is called the Byres, because, it is believed, the monks kept their cattle there ; and the eastern has got the name of the Corsehill, from its being the place where they erected the cross. The principal villages are, Doura, Fergushill, and Dalgarven, The two first contain each upwards of 200 inhabitants, and the third nearly that number. For the accommodation of the public, there is a post-office, and the parish is intersected, in all directions, by roads, eleven miles of which are turnpike^roads. The rest are kept up jointly by the proprietors and tenantry. Formerly, there were several stage* coaches, which passed through Kilwinning to Glasgow and other places, but they have all been given up since tbe opening of tbe Glasgow and Ayr Railway, about two years ago, which affords the 830 ATRSHIRB. greatest fecilities, both for travelliog and the coDTeyanee of goodai and ferm produce. It passes through the west end of the toviii vi^here a station-house has been erected, and wheie the hfasdi to Ardrossan also meets the chief line. The branch to Kil- mamock, which is io the process of fennatioD, and is eipected to be completed in the spring of 184S» also passes through the parish, within a Biile of the town ; and it was originally intended to have a short off-shot branch, from the nearest point, stretching directly down to the Kilwinning station, to facilitate communica- Ikm between Kilmarnock and Ardrossan. But this proposal has been given up in the meantime. Should the railway, however, better remunerate the proprietors, this plan very probably will be carried into execution. There is also another railway, with a single line of rails, from the Doura and Feigushill collieries, which meets with the Ardrossan branch of (he Glasgow and Ayr railway, about two miles from the harbour. By this railway the coal is conveyed for exportation. It has been in operation several years. EedesiaMtical oudoun family. One of the square towers, with its battlement of unknown antiquity, was destroyed when the castle was besieged by General Monk.* Another tower, larger and higher, was built about the fifteenth century, and is still entire. A large addition was built to the castle by the Chancellor Loudoun ; but the greater aad most stately part of the building was completed in 181 L The li- brary contains upwards of 11,000 volumes. The old castle of Loudoun was destroyed by fire about 350 years ago.f * It was defended on Uiis occasbn by Ladj LmhUnid, wIm «pic«l«ted on honoiir- nble termB. t The current tradition regarding the burning of the old castle, ascribes that event to the elan Kennedy at Uie period aboY^iDantionsd, and the w m aiui of aa old tower at Aehni||len, on the Galston side of the vaUej, is still pointed out ai having been their residence, The following fl-agment of a baUad, known among the peasantry from time iauneroorial, would assign a difiereot author aad later dMe to this foray. The same ballad, however, with the alteration of a few names, entitled Adam ii Gordon, recording the burning of Towie Castk, in the north of SooC- land, in 1571, was puUisbed about a century ago by Lord Haiks in Oiaigow, hsi since appeared in Percy's Reliques, in Chambers and in Pinkerton*s CoUeetions of Scottish Balkub. In a note to the ballad m Percy, it is said that the wandering minstrels changed the names in their songs, to suit them as for as possible to sioiilar events in the histories of the different foroilies which they visited. 1. It foil about the Martinmas time. When the wind blew snell and cauld. That Adam o* Gordon said to bit niao. Where will we get a bold. 2. See not where vonder foir Castle Stands on yon lily lee, Tlie laird and I ha«a deikdly foud. The lady foin would I see. LOUDOUN. 847 IIL-<-P0PI7LATION. The population of the parish at different periods is as follows : In 1765, . 1494 1791, . 2306 1801, . 2503 18)1, . 3170 1821, 3741 1831, . 3959 1841, . 4444 3. As she was up on the housebead, Behold on looking down. She saw Adam o* Gordon and his men Coming riding to the town. 4. The dinner was not well set down, Nor the grace was scarcely said, Till Adam o* Gordon and his men About tht walls were laid. 5. It*s fause now fk* thee, Jook my man. Thou might a* let me be. Yon man has lifted the pavement stone. An' kt in the lovn to me. 6. Seven years I served thee, fair ladie. You gave me meat and fee, But, now I am Adam o*Gordon*s man, An' maun either do it or die. 7. Come down, oome down, my lady Loudoun, Come down thou unto me, 111 wrap thee on a feather bed, Thy warrand I shall be. a 1*11 no eome down, I'U no eome down. For neither laird no loun. Nor yet for any bloody butcher That lives in Altringkam town. 9. T would give the black, she says, And so would I the brown. If that Thomas, my only son. Could charge to me a gun. 10. Out then spake the Lady Margaret, As she stood on the staif, The fire was at her goud garters, The lowe was at her hahr. 11. I would give the ^ack, she says, And so would I the brown, For a drink of yon water. That runs by GalstoB town. 12. Out then spake kar Amie, She was baitb jimp and sma*, O row me in a pair o* sheets, And tow me down the wa\ 848 AYRSHIRE. The population, according to the census of 1841, is thus di- vided : Males. FemalM. Total Newmilns, • 964 1024 1968 Derval, 658 702 1960 Laodwardf • 558 543 1096 2175 2209 4444 IV. — Industry. AgricuUuTe. — There are about 19,169 imperial acres in the pa- rish, of these there are, Arable, . 10720 Bent and moor pasture, . 3153 PlanUtions, . 882 Moss, . 4414 ToUl acres imperial, . 19169 The valued rent of the parish is, (Scots) L.5696, Is. lOd. The real rental is about L.9250 Sterling. The 6rst agricultural improver in the district was John, Earl of Loudoun. He built a bridge across the Irvine, made roads through the parish ; the one made from his own house to Newmilns was 18. O hold thy tongue, thou fair Annie, And let thy talkin be, For thou must stay in this fair CasUe, And bear thy death with me. 14. O mother, spoke the Lord Thomas, As he sat on the nunie*8 knee, mother give up this fair casUe, Or the reek will worrie me. 15. 1 would rather be burnt to ashes sma'y And be cast on yon sea foam, Before I'd give up this fair castle, And my Lord so far from home. 16. My good Lord has an army strong. He's now gone o'er the sea. He bad me keep this gay castle, As long as it would keep me. 17. I've four««nd-twenty brave milk kye Gangs on yon lily lee, I'd give them a' for a blast of wind, To blaw the reek from me. 18. O pittie on yon fair castle, That*8 built with stone and lime, But far mair pittie on Lady Loudoun, And all her children nine. LOUDOUN. 849 the first constructed by statute*labour in the county. He plied vigorously the work of enclosing and planting.* A great many improvements have taken place in the Loudoun estate nvithin the last few years. Many farm-houses, of the most approved description, have been built, which add to the beauty of the landscape, as well as to the comfort of the tenants. Many roads have also been made. A large tile-work has been in ope- ration for the last six years, solely for the benefit of the tenants on the estate, who pay a small per centage for the tiles. This year upwards of a million tiles have been manufactured, which will drain 250 acres. Another tile-work has this year been erected on a part of the estate, near the village of Darvel. It is let on a lordship, and is intended to supply tiles for public sale. Plantations. — The plantations around Loudoun Castle contain some fine trees. Lord John, mentioned above, planted, about 100 years ago, upwards of a million of trees, chiefly elm, ash, and oak. Many of the elms and oaks, (and these too not the largest), which were lately cut down, contained upwards of 150 square feet of timber. The soil seems admirably adapted for forest trees. Many of the various kinds of trees and shrubs, such as yew, holly, Por- tugal laurel, cedars, and arbor vitae, American oaks, hickories, walnuts, &c. have grown to a remarkable size. Many of these shrubs were brought from America by Lord John himself, who was Governor of Virginia in 1756. ^^ He also formed," it is ob- served by Dr Walker, ^^ one of the most extensive collections of willows evei' made in this country. Wherever he went, during his long military services, he sent home every sort of valuable tree he could meet with. All the willows he found cultivated in Eng- land, Ireland, Holland, Flanders, and Germany, as also in Ame- rica and Portugal, where he commanded, were procured and sent to Loudoun." One Portugal laurel» now in the old garden, sweeps with its branches a circumference of 140 feet. The *^ old yew tree of Loudoun," which grows close to the castle wall, is of un- known antiquity. It is said that one of the family charters was signed under it in the time of William the Lion. One of the ar- ticles of union, it is also said, was subscribed by Lord Hugh, under its deep shade. When Lord James went into voluntary banishment to Holland, he addressed his letters^ (being afraid of detection) for his lady ^* to the gudewife at the Auldton, at the old yew tree of * The first " Ayrshire rose" was brought into this country by Lord John from Amerioa. The original plant is yet growing fresh and yigorous at Loudoun Castle. AYR. 8 a Newmilos. 460 90 Darrd. 267 61 ToUl. 727 151 Weekly vages. ATerage. From 8s. to Ss. 8s.to6«. 290 154 8 1 189 84 419 288 8 2s. to Ss. 6d. Is to 2s. 12 4 18 2 12 4 15 SCO AYRSHIRE. Loudoun, Scotland," and they always reached their intended des- tination in safety. The old yew tree is still growing fresh and strong in the full enjoyment of a green and healthy old age. Manufactures. — Almost the whole population residing in Dar- vel and Newmilns, amounting to upwards of 3000, depend, direct- ly or indirectly, for their subsistence upon hand*loom weavtog. With the exception of a small wool-mill, thi? is the only branch of manufacture carried on in the parish. The following table will show the number of weavers and of those immediately connected with weaving in these villages, and also the average amount of the wages of each class : Male weavers. Female weavers* Clippers, (females from eight years upwards,) Winders of pirns, Weaver's wrights, Warpers, warp-winders, and starcberSf Mounters and twisteis, Agents and manufacturers, Within the last two or three years, since the jacquard machine has been brought into almost universal use in harness weaving, upwards of L.1300 have been expended in Newmilns alone upon machines. The introduction of this machine has been of great advantage, not only to the weaver but to his children, who former- ly were employed as early as the age of eight to perform for the weaver the mechanical labour now more efficiently accomplished by the machine. The only other branch of manufacture carried on in this parish, besides weaving, is wool-spinning. The wool-mill was established in 1804. It belongs to a company of carpet manufacturers in Kil- marnock ; employs 125 hands ; and manufactures about 8000 yardsi of woollen yarn per annum. V. — Parochial Economy. Villageg. — The two villages or towns in the parish are NewmiIo:> and Darvel. 1. Newmilns contains a population of 1988. It is situated upon the river Irvine, and about the centre of the parish. It contains the parish church and school, and post-office. It was made ii burgh of barony by James IV. The ancient burgh is governed by two bailies, a chancellor, a treasurer, and 6scal, and thirteen councillors ; and, it is to be presumed, that, in such a multitude of councillors, there is wisdom. In Newmilns, there are publicans, LOUDOUN. 851 14 ; tailors, 6 -, butchers, 2 ; bakers, 2 ; shoemakers, 5 ; licensed grocers, 15 ; carters and coaUdrivers, 7 ; wrights, 5 ; smiths, 2 ,* milliners, 2 ; carriers to Glasgow and Kilmarnock, 2 ; surgeons, 2 ; writers, 1 ; teachers of schools, 4. 2. Darvel, population, 1360. It is situated a mile east from Newmilns. About ninety years ago, it contained but four houses. There are in it shoemakers, 19; sewers, 17; masons, 8; publi- cans, 10 ; tailors, 8 ; bakers, 4 ; carters, 7 ; carriers, 4 ; sawers, 4 ; Wrights, 12 ; butchers, 4 ; coopers, 1 ; flax^dressers, 1 ; dyer, 1 ; grocers, 18 ; smiths, 4 ; surgeons, 3 ; teacher, 1 ; &c Besides the above, there is the small village of Auldton or Al- ton, in the north-west part of the parish, containing about 24 fa- milies. In this village there are, 1 smith, 1 wright, 1 shoemaker, 1 grocer, 1 publican, and 1 teacher. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is most conveniently situated for the parish. It was built in 1738. It is seated for 800 only ; though the present number of communicants regularly partaking of the Lord's Supper in it is upwards of 900 1 It is much out of repair. Every hope is entertained that a new one will soon be built. The manse was built in 1768» and additions were made to it at a subsequent period. It was repaired four years ago. The glebe contains eight acres arable land, and eight acres of pasture. It is worth about L.50 per annum. The stipend con- sists of 165 bolls of meal, 14 bolls of barley, and L.43 in money* Rdigious D^iuimtiur^toiu.—- About 620 families profess to be- long to the Established Church, of whom 315 are in Newmilns, 167 in Darvel, and 138 in the country. Of these, there are fa- milies or rather individuals who are not in communion with any church, but who have been baptized in the Establishment. There are two Dissenting congregations in the parish, one con- nected with the United Associate Synod, the other with the Re- formed Presbyterian or Cameronians. The United Secession congregation was formed in Newmilns in 1772. Their 6rst place of worship was built in 1773, and contained 400 sittings. Their present church was built in 1838^ and contains 780 sittings. The congregation consists of persons from different parishes ; but chiefly from Loudoun and Galston. The number of communi- cants in 1841 was 470. The Reformed Presbyterian old place of worship was built in Darvel in 1785, and the present one in 1835. There are at present 852 AYRSHIRE. 89 families and 165 members in Darvel and its neighbourhood professing to adhere to thli body. Besides the above there are 3 Roman Catholic, 2 Episcopaltan, and 10 or 12 Baptist families in the parish. JSducatian. — The total number of schools in the parish is six ; of these, one is the parochial school, situated in Newmilos. Darvel and Alton have school-rooms and dwelling-houses for the teacher, provided for them by the Loudoun family ; one in New- milns is a female school, which is partly supported by subscriptions. The other two, Harkowsike and Newmilns, are wholly unendowed. The amount of fees paid to the parochial schoolmaster is Lb40 per annum. The salary is the maximum, with house and garden. He receives L.14 per annum, as clerk to the session and heritors, and L.IO per annum, as factor on a mortification for the benefit of the poor, left by a Mrs Crawfurd. There are about 450 children attending at present alt the schools in the parish. The children from the landward districts enter school when about five years of age, and remain about five years at school. In the villages, they are sent between the years of five and seven, and remain from eighteen months to three years. The education in the manufacturing villages is sadly defective. fThis arises solely from want, not of the will, but of the means on the part of the parents to educate their children. Nothing can ex- ceed the anxiety of the pareuts in this respect, but they can neither epare their children's work nor their wages. The female school has been of much service in teaching useful branches of knowledge, industry, and habits of neatness in the childrep. The wages are 4s. a-quarter, including books, &c. It is attended by about 60 scholars; and, though only begun five years ago, has succeeded admirably. The parish school is most efficiently taught* XftV^ra^t/r^.— -There are three libraries in the parish; one is congregational as to superintendence, but every individual in the parish may read from it at Is. a-year. It was established two years ago, and contains nearly 300 volumes. The other two, one in Darvel, and one in Newmilns, are subscription libraries, and have been established for many years. They contain together about 1000 volumes. These libraries have been of incalculable benefit in instructing and interesting the working classes. Friendly Societies. — There are in the parish one Masonic, to relieve the sick and infirm brethren connected with the lodge; two Co-operative, to obtain groceries^ meal, cheese^ &e. at 3 LOUDOUN. 853 prime eoHt ; the members paying shop rent, salesman, &c. ; one Economical, to join a small part of their-weekly gains, and to lodge these in bank when they amount to L.4, the principle being nearly that of the sayings' bank ; two Funeral, to pay for the mortcloth and the expenses of the funeral of the members, dieir parents, and children ; one Farmers', for mutual relief in case of fire, on the principle of fire insurance. PocT and Parochial Funds. — The number of persons at present upon the poor's roll of the parish is 70. Those paupers may be divided into the following classes, with the weekly aliment re- ceived by each. Aged and infirm, 46, three of whom receive weekly 2s. 6d. ; five, 2s.; five, Is. 6d. ; thirteen. Is.; twelve, 9d.; eight, 6d. Widows with families, 9, — one, 2s. 6d ; three, 2s. ; three, Is. fid. ; two, fid. Orphans, 9,^four receive 2s. ; three, Is 6d.; two, is. Fatuous, 7, — one, 7s.; one, 8s.: one, 4s. dd. ; one, Is.; one, 9d. ; one, fid. Total, 70; per week, L.4, 10s. In addition to the above weekly allowance, L.24, 12s. fid. is paid l)y the heritors for house-rent to the paupers, while upwards of Lk30 is expended on incidental poor, whose names are not on the roll ; and also in occasionally giving additional aid to the regular pauper. The above sum is raised by voluntary assessment, except what is collected at the church door, which in the year amounts to about L.d4. The assessment is laid upon the valued rent, the heritors charging the tenants with one-half. Charitable Bequests,— ^There are three charities in the parish : 1. Smith's Bequest, left by a Mr John Smith, who was born in Newmilns, and died a merchant in Glasgow. It is for decayed bur- gesses in Newmilns, their widows, and children. The managers are, the two magistrates, and two councillors named by them ; the minister, and two elders named by him. The income at their disposal isX.60 per annum, which is all expended in Newmilns, and is confined to those who receive no parochial aid. 2. Mrs Crawfurd of Bolquairn's mortification, of L. Ifi per annum, in favour of four old people, L.4 to each ; the session are the managers. 3. Mr Brown of Waterhaugh^s Charitable Foundation educates twelve children, six in Galston, and six in Loudoun. The parents of the children receive L.2, ds. fid. to clothe their children ; the school fees being paid to the master besides. Pauperism is either steadily upon the increase, or the poor arc getting more into the habit of seeking relief from the parochial fund. The causes of our pauperism are of course various, such as 854 AYHSHIRE. bad habits, bad health, and bad trade. As pauperism is a disease inherent in the body politic, it never can be altogether cured. It has ba£3ed human skill since the Fall, and will do so till the end of the world. As Sir Thomas Brown says, ^^ Statists that la- bour to contrive a commonwealth without our poverty, take away the object of charity, and forget the prophecy of Christ'' But as far as poverty can be cured in our country parishes by human means, the best means for Scotland, we humbly conceive to be, a more extended and well-worked Scotch poor law, and a more extended and well-worked Scotch church. The poor in the villages are very kind to each other. As far as they can assist, they do so. But in most of our weaving' villages, each man has his hands full at home. Besides, poverty while it increases the demand for charity, *^ brings on a sore and petted mood," and creates a selfish spirit which shuts the hand that, in better times, would be liberal. We have not found the poor greedy* They are much more grateful for small favours than greedy for great ones. They often suffer fearfully before they complain. Families will live for days, and even weeks, on a few potatoes and salt, and pawn their clothes before they seek public aid, though they know, that, whenever there is a case of desti- tution, relief will be granted. Necessity often teaches them a secret which it would be better they had never discovered, viz. upon how little food life may be supported. This secret has led many, steeped in poverty, to the whisky-shop. Hundreds of gallons of whisky are drunk by n)en who are starving. Drunk- enness is undoubtedly, in many cases, the effect as much as the cause of poverty. The weaver, after sitting sixteen hours a- day in a damp loom-shop, without healthy bodily exercise, his nerves unstrung, his digestive organs deranged, will often rob him- self of his food and raiment to banish, by intoxication, that bodily wretchedness and mental irritability which he knows, from sad ex- perience, will soon return with increased misery. The habit of drinking is thus often formed, and, when once formed, never almost is it banished. Much whisky is consumed in our villages by a class of weavers termed trampersy generally young men, who, wearied of the restrictions of home, wander from village to village, working for such as keep looms on purpose to supply those wandering me- chanics. They live miserably, spending the greater portion of their wages in whisky, which they consume, not only in public and private houses, but sdso in the fields. After thus ** wasting their LOUDOUN. 855 substaDce in riotous living/' they frequently decamp upon a sudden, leaving behind them debt and a bad example, neither of which they ever intend to cancel, and taking with them, in exchange for what they leave, many of the young men of the place where they have for a time been located, who are, in some distant village, ini- tiated into all the loose ongoings of the tramper's life. Inns^ Alehouses^ ^c. — There are t26 public-houses in the parish, 15 in Newmilns, 9 in Darvel, and 2 in the country. The average quantity of whisky consumed in the year in the parish is about 4500 gallons. This quantity, when mixed for retail sale, and when sold at retail prices, will bring nearly U4000. March 1842. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COUNTY OF AYR. This important county is bounded on the south, by that of Wig ton and the stewartry of Kirkcudbright ; on the east, by the coun- ties of Lanark and Dumfries ; on the north, by that of Renfrew ; and on the west, by the Irish Channel and the Frith of Clyde. It is computed to contain about 1600 square miles. Formerly, it was divided into the three districts of Carrick, Kyle, and Cunninghame, — ^the first lying on the south side of the river Doon ; the second between that river and the Irvine ; and the third comprehending the whole of the county north of the Ir- vine. The rivers are those of Ayr, Scinchar, Girvan, Doon, Irvine, and Garnock. This county possesses great advantages in its maritime situa- tion, and several excellent harbours, as well as in the great abun- dance of coal and limestone, o?er its whole extent The valued rent of the county is L. 191,605, Os. 7d. Annual value of real property as assessed in 1815, L. 409,983. Population in 1841, 164,522. Number of inhabited houses in 1841, 30,240* The Parliamentary constituency in 1841, 4141. Table showing the number of persons committed for trial or bail- ed for different offences for the year 1840 : Oftences against the person, • - - - 19 property, committed with violence, - 14 without violence, 18 Malicious offences against property, ... 1 Forgery and offences against the currency, • - 9 el I GENfeRAL OBSERYATIONB ON THE COUNTY. 857 < o a a o O 4> o 1 I en o W bo CO S c: 'S s o o i 1 s B I ooo o ooooo ooo o oooon oeooo o o ot*oo o o 8S2 *2 8S5:2g8 'g§g8 8 o o t o B S S E «" 2J i !• So • • • ■ • • i - Q J3.» §1 8@ I o o 25 O O O O O O 5< .O O OOOO : I'- : : J OO OOOO o ooooo^ O^ 0*^00 o ooooo^ 99 o6 ^ OO^oS-^ 00 o ^ O Ol wS o^ o 5j5 S odd ooo |S5S J o o o O O OOOO ^ Fb< oo O"* • o o-^ o oo 93 oo OOOO ooo OO-^O ^'^'^^ oo oo J • • « • • • o oo oo o . .oo .oo 8 * '^S 'SJS: oooooooo .oooooooo & s 'XB^ u}«yooq3g oooooooo iSOXOOO^^OOOO cSOOO 0^0^0^'*'*'0«r^00^ ^00*^0 rf"^^-^ J 2TJ 00 »0 04 O) Ol ^ '<4> 01 *0 O 00 OS 01 ^ -^ : 04 93^ ; .^ <^ «^ '3 I w I B •0 « B 1,2 « »«2 « « 04 ^ o 93 ooi^oScor^ AYR, 858 S JO M c o rm *•• 9 J3 O eo S s c I O O ceo ooo GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COUNTY. o ers o oc • • • • • • • • 8 ■ '8S ' ' -*- *" s 44 M • 1^ ^2 s o !^ o o o « o o c o I 00 ^ M 9> I O O (J ooooo ooco ooo oo »ooooo ooi^'oooor* o ooo o ^ ►* s*-^ gas CE4 ■b fl ooo ooo ^S8 o o o oo • • oo o o oo o o • • 8S '8 * 2 • • a • • • ■ • • c c 3 o 8 M V E 3 ^ ooo CO t^ :3 o o o o -it "O '* o • • • • • • • __ • ■ 3 t* S S oo oo ^o tS3 ;S9 o o 8 ooo ooo o o © -O o o o ,o 889 8 ? S 3 .J oo oo o oo oo . o r ooooooooo ooaoooooooo ^-^OO-^^^O-^ OOOOtQ^^O-^ AOOO : '-<^ ^ 0b 93 00 o5 99 03 ^ CI 09 Ov w5 vN (N 03 w6 O9 C9 vl "^ c6 •J 00 •jBj tus|Ooqos I : :*^ :^ :'-c6ob :7i :aD : :coc403 «q «oc^aD« 0) I § Ml e •S I s 0*^ S «fS ^ *^ § & sS 9i«npuipui 03 CO ^ CP Od CO 8 ^ IS? : 8 CO t OD • -CO ^ CO • • • • a • ■ • B U91Ua«8[Q • • 'SS • • • • • "zj •«s • • • • • • <73 • • • • • a »■< • \0 • a ■ « a • • • • a ■ • B ■ • •OQ 'OQ HBnpiAipui o} ^uiSaof oS .SJS • -2:2 . . a .$ . ag 55^ '88 • 'S a • • • 'Ss • -g O Ss '-^ 9Q a aZ^ • • • • • ,t\ Oi • •OD • * Si • a a a a • • a CQ ~J • • ZS • • **' • a a ^^ a • • a a P"« a • Q^ • a ^m a «1 M • * • • a a • • a a I uop«|naoj CN CO OiOSOt^jQaj^-— '"^©lOr* 8 If all INDEX. Academies, the Ayr, 26» 70 — the Irvine, 624 Afton water, the, 510 — valley of, 509 Afton Bridgend, villHge of, 520 Agricultural association, the Ayrshire, 48t 65 — the Ardrossan, 233 — museum at Ayr, 51 Agriculture, statistics of, 47, 96, 111, 120, 138, 153, 168, 174, 184, 200, 224, 260, 2^2, 297, 317, 327, 340, 368, 386, 398, 410, 419, 462, 484, 501, 518, 525, 530, 544, 568, 589, 612, 626, 645, 657, 679, 711,' 734, 758, 766, 771, 785, 802, 827, 848 Aiket castle, ruins of, 294 Ailsa craig, 10, 381 Aird, Mr, improvements by, 154 Airds Moss, 323 — monument on, to the memory of Cameron, 325 Aitken, John, bequest by, 236 Aitnacb craig, artcient fort on, 219 Alexander, Claud, Esq. 140, 144 Alloway, Lord, birth-place of, 32 AUoway kirk, ruins of, 38 — the moat of, 38 — suppressed parish of, 2 — its im- proved condition, 4 Alton, village of, 851 Anderson of Broadlee, family of, 296 Annock water, the, 290, 523, 728,— lodge, 525 Antiquities, 34, 93, 109, 119, 133, 152, 161, 173, 180, 197, 219, 257, 271, 278, 294, 315, 325, 337, 364, 384, 409, 418, 454, 482, 496, 517, 541, 576, 609, 642, 655, 703, 784, 747, 765, 782, 800, 845 App water, the, 416 Archery, practir;e of, in Kilwinning, 824 Ardeer house, 451 — quarry, 437 Ardneil bank, 244 — bay, 245— castle- hills at, 257 Ardrossan, parish of, 191 — origin of the name, 191 — history of, 196 — land- owners in, 196 — ministers of, from 1569, 206~castle, ruins of, 197-yfa. mily of, 197 — agricultural association, 201, 233— town o^ 201— its public buildings, 198 — ^its baths, harbour, &c. 202— canal, 571— railway, 203 ATB. Ardstinchar, ruins of the castle of, 418 Ash tree, remarkable, in Mauchline, 160 Asbgrove house, 826 — loch, 436, 812 Assel water, the, 395 Auchans house and»pear, 679 Auchencruive house, 120 Auchendrane tragedy, the, 362 — castle, ruins of, 363 Auchenharvie castle, ruins of, 734 AuchenHkeigh, limestone quarries at, 214 Auchincloich castle, ruins of, 109 Auchingree, ancient urns found at, 220 Auchinleck, parish of, 322 — its history, 324 — landowners of, 325 — ruins of the -place of, 325 — house, 325 — ^vil* lage of, 330— the laird of, 135 Auchinmede, stone coffin found at, 220 Auchmillan, village of, 165 Auld, Mr, 28 Aaldhill, remains of ancient fort at, 257 Auldmuir, limestone quarries at, 232 Auldton, village of, 851 Avon water, the, 1 79 Ayr, parish of, 1 — origin of the name, 1 — its soil and appearance, 3 — improve- ments in, 21 — miscellaneous observa- tions on, 84 — heads of, 2 — bay, 9 — river, 6, 130, 149, 159, 323, 637, 651, 743 — its scenery, 6>>«ncient castle of, 21 Ayr, the town of, 18, 66 — its situation, 1 — its antiquity, 19 — history of, 20 — improvements in, 21 — ^its public build* ings, 22 — its harbour, 55— and trade, 56 — law courts of, 57 — banks and branches in, 58— sailor's society of, 59 — merchant's company of, 60->-~in* corporated trades of, 62— writer'a so- ciety of, 63 — horticultural associktloA, 64— medical association, 65 — dispen- sary, 76 — Smith's institution in, 77 — school of industry, 77 — savings bank» 77 — jail, 83 — classified population of, 69— academy, 70 — libraries in, 72— newspapers published in, 73 — ^mecha* nics* institute of, 73 — charitable insti* tutions in, 73 — concluding remadct on, 84 Ayrshire, general observations on, 856 3 K 860 AYRSHIRE. — ^banking company, 58— cow, 195 — needlework, 99, 503 Baal-fire, custom of the, 223 Baidland hill, 211— cannel coal found at, 213 BaUUe, Principal, 821 Ballantine, Miss, of Castlehill, bequest by, 82 Ballantrae, parish of, 415 — ^its history and landowners, 418— general observa- tions on, 425 -village of, 416, 4 1 8, 421 Ballochmorie house, 529 Balwhirn quarry, 504 Banks and branches, various, in Ayr, 58 —in Beith, 593— in Cumnock, 488 — in Largs, 809 — in Stewarton, 739 Barbieston, mineral spring at, 274— stone coffins found at, 280 — cairns at, 280 —castle, ruins of, 281 Barclay of Ardrossan, family of, 699 ' Barclay, Robert, 627 Bargany, collieries of, 382 — plantations at, 384— murder of the laird of, 360 Bams of Ayr, burning of the, by Wal- lace, 21 — site of, 41 Barnshean loch, 493 Baruweil hill, the, 21— bouse, 765 Barr, parish of, 407— its history, 409— miscellaneous observations on, 413 — village of, 409 Barskimming house, 159,642 — ^remark- able trees at, 641— bridge, 165 Basaltic columns at Benbeoch, 309 Bathburn, the, 692 Baths, the Ardrossan, 202 Battlefields, ancient, near Ayr, 40 Bay of Ayr, scenery of the^ 9 Beinerard Iiill, 415 Beith, parish of, 570— its history, 576— and landowners, 583 — ministers of, from 1573, 593— miscellaneous ob- servarions on, 603 — tovm of, 570, 591 — town house, 601 Bell, ancient, found at Blackburn, 9 Bell, Rev. John, 466 Bella water, 476 Belleisle house, 4 Bellfield house, 610 Belmont cottage, 4 Benbeoch, basaltic columns at, 309 Bennan hill, 334 Beoch, ruins of thjs castle of, 365 Berbeth, scenery of the glen of, 334 — bouse, 338 Black water, the, 529 Black, Rev. Dr, 654 Black lead, mine of, 638 Blackciaig castle, ruins of,517— hill, 509 Bkickside end hill, 126 Blackwood, John, 729— Sir Robert, be- quest by, 81 Bladenock water, 529 Blaeloch, the, 572 Blair, Sir Bryce, birth*plaoe of, 217 — Charles, of Longhousc, bequest by, 189 — of Blair, plantationa formed by, 216 Blair house, 216 — remarkable cave at, 211 — bed of ironstone found near, 213 — ancient urns found at, 220 Blairquhan, ruins of the castle of, 338 — house, 338 Bloak, village of, 734— well, the, 728 Blythe, the Rev. John, 114 Boghall loch, drainage of, 580 Bogton loch, 310 Boreland castle, ruins of, 482— rmaa of chapel at, 479 Bos well, the Dowager Lady, 106 Boswell, James, the biographer of Jokn- son, 324 Boswell, Sir James, of Auchinleck, 108 Botany, 16, 90, 131, 150, 160, 196, 215^ 247. 249, 276, 313, 336, 354, 384^ 450, 516, 575, 640, 652, 670, 696^ 747, 792, 815 Boxes, the Auchinleck, manufactory of» 329 Boyd of Bonhall, family of, 452 Boyd, General Robert, 253 Boyd, Rev. Thomas, 593 Boyd, Sir Thomas, defeat of the Denes by, 250 Boyle of Kelbume, family of, 798 Boyle, David, Lord - Justice - General* birth-place of, 627 Bniden loch, 334 Bridgend, village of, 520 Bridges, see Roads Brisbane of Brisbane, family of, 798 British camps, remains of, in Kirkmx- diael, 496 — forts in Dalrymple, 271^ Broadstone, lime quarries at, 573 Brochloch, ruins of the casde of, 365 Brooch, antique, found at Hunteraton, 258 Brown of HQl, family of, 296 Brown of Lanfine, method of planthig' practised by, 185 Brown, John, of Priesthill, scene of the death of, 152 Brown, John, a collier, remarkable ease of, 392 Brown, John, of Waterhaugb, bequest by, 189 Brown, Rev. John, 132 Brown, Carrickhill, 349 Bruce, endowment of the hotpital of Kingcase by, 75 — ^tradition regardinir, 173 Bruntwood loch, 180 Buchan, Mrs, a fimatic, 684 INDEX. 861 Buchanan, Archibald, of Catrine, im- provements by, 189 Buchanan, Geils, a witch, tradition re- garding, 258 Burnhouse, village of, 593 Buinoch water, 106 Bums, monument to, at Ayr, 26 — ^birth- place and early life of, 29 — residence of, at Mossgeii, 161 — at Lochlee, 757 — and in Kirkoswaid, 783 Bute, the Marquis of, 108 Caafwater, the,212,812 Caddall, Mrs, bequest by, 423 Caddel burn, the, 193 Caerwinning hill, 211 — remains of old fortification on, 219 Cairnhill house, 765 Cairns, ancient, at Camp hill, 220— at Barbieston, 280-- at Dalmellington,316 Caimtable hill, 148 Caldwell, mansion-house of, 585 Cameron, monument to, at Aird*s Moss, 325 Camlarg, colliery of, 312 Campbell, Lady John, bequest by, 81 Campbell, Hugh, of Loudon, 107 Campbell, Rev. John, 144 Campbell of Fairfield, 174 Campbell, Rev. Alexander, 465 Campbell, cairn at, 220 Camps, ancient, remains of, in Maybole, 365— .in Dailly, 384— in Kirkmichael, 496— in Girvan, 396— a^ Harpercroft, 678— British, in Dalrymple, 279— in Kirkmichael, 496 — Danish, on Knock - georgan, IBS- — Roman, at Loudon bill and Maincastle, 181 Cannel coal, remarkable seam of, 213 Canoes, ancient, found at Loch Doon« 337 Capon Craig, quarry of, 437 Caprington castle, 609 Carleton castle, ruins of, 529 Carinel water, 769 Camannock, cairn at, 316 Carnell well, remains at, 655 Carpets, manufactury of, in Ayr, 53 — and in Kilmarnock, 551 Carrick fiirmers* society, the, 372 C-assanton, remains of ancient camp at, 496 Cassilis, Earl Gilbert, atrocious proceed- ing of, 358 — feud between the family of, and the Barganies, 360— house, 497— famUy of, 499 Castle Downans, ancient camp at, 496 Castle hill, mansion-house of, 4 — an- cient, 257, 455— in Largs, 800 Castle house, ruins of the, 315 Cathcart, David, Lord AUoway, birth place of, 32 Catrine works, 140^— meteorological re- gister kept at, 120— viUage of, 140, 143 — libraries in it, 145 Cattle, breeds of, see Live-stock Caves, remarkable on the banks of the Ayr, 159— and of the Dusk, 211— in Little Cumbray, 277 Cessnock water, the, 179, 606 Chapel in Ladykirk, ruins of, 173 Chapel house, ruins of chapel at, 294 Chapel park, the, at Ayr, 37 Chapel well, remains at, 655 Character of the people, see Popula- tion, character of Charitable bequests, various, to Ayr, 81 — institutions in Ayr, 73 Cholera, ravages of, in A3rr, 75 — in Beith, 575 Churches, Established, see Ecdesias- ^ tical statistics.— -Dissenting, see Dis- senters Clandeboyes, family of, 292 Claverhouse, murder of Brown of Priest- bUl by, 152 Havin hills, the, 667 Cleeves, colliery of, 232 Cleugh burn, 130 Climate, see Meteorology Cloncaird castle, 500 Coal and collieries, 12, 88, 130, 149, 151, 171, 179, 193, 218, 231, 312, 328, 336, 382, 439, 477, 513, 606, 639, 651, 660, 668, 694, 714, 745» 785, 813, 828, 885 Coal, exportation of, from Newton, 99 Coal pits, drowning of two, 427 Coalburn, colliery of, 232 Cochrane of Ladylands, improvements by, 714 Coila water, 106 Coilsfield house, 757 Coilus, King, tradition regarding, 655 — supposed tomb of, 751 Coins, ancient, found in Dalrymple, 279 ^-at Wbitehill, 517 — Roman, found at Loudon bill, 181 Collieries of Stevenston, history of the, 489 — see also Coal Colmonell, parish of, 528— land-owners in, 529 — miscellaneous observations on 533— village of, 531 Colville, Sir WUliam, of Ochiltree, 107 Communication, means of, see Roads Conchology, 792 Content, village of, 120 Cooper, Alexander, bequest by, 763 Corsancon hill, 509 Corstfhill bum, 290, 728— castle, nuns of, 734 Court hill, remains of the, at Dalry,220 862 AYRSHIRE. Covenanters, success of the, at Mauch- . line mttir, 161 — execution of five, 161 Cows, peculiar breed of, at Eglinton, 195 Coyl water, 649 — craigs of, 650 Coylton, parish of, 649 — its civil his- . tory. 653 — ^land-owners ini 654 — mi- nisters of, from the Reformation, 662 — miscellaneous observations on, 665 —village of, 660, 662 Craig of Ailsa, the, 10 Craigdow hill and loch, 781 Craigengower hill, 933 Craighall, village of, 662 Craighead, lime-works at, 382 Craigie, parish of, 764 — land- owners of, 765— castle, ruins of, 765 — in New- ton-on-Ayr, ruins of, 93— 'house, 120 Craignaught hill, 289 Craigneil castle, ruins of, 529 Creigs of Coyl, the, 650^^f Ness, 309 Craigskean, ruins of the castle of, 365 Crawford, Mrs, bequest by, 81 Crawford, John, of Pergushill, 218 Crawford, David, 654 Crawfords of Drumsuy, family of, 654 Crawfurd, Captain Thomas, of Jordan- hill, 218,693 Crawfurd, Rev. George, deposition of, 251 Crawfurd, Mrs, of Ardmillan, bequest by, 404 Crawfurd of Kilbirnic, family of, 699 Crawfurd, Mrs, bequest by, 853 Crawfurdland castle, ruins of, 541 Creeling, the custom of, 222 Cromwell, destruction of Ardrossan cas- tle by, 197 Cromwell's fort at Ayr, remains of, 42 Cross of Ayr, the, 39— of Beith, 580 Crossbill, village of, 494, 593, 595 Crossraguel abbey, ruins of, 782 Cuff hill, 571 — remains on, 577 Culzean castle and caves, 783 Cumbray, the lesser, island of, 243, 244, 269 — ^lightbouse on, 270 — castle on, 271 Cumnock, New, parish of, 509 — its his- tory, 516 — land-owners in, 517 Cumnock, Old, parish of, 475 — its his- tory, 478 — land-owners in, 482 Cumnock, town of, 487 — snuff-boxes, manufactory of, 485 Cuninghame, Robert Reid, Esq. 441 Cuninghame, Sir Robert, 453 Cuninghame, Robert, 456— ^improve- roents introduced by, 439 ^ Cuninghame, Mrs, bequest by, 557 Cuninghame, Sir John, of C^pringto ) 608 Cunmngham, Sir Robert, of Auchenhar- vie,218 Cunningham cow, the, 195 Cunninghamhead house, 525 Cunite's steps, tradition connected with the, 144 Curreath house, 678 Customs, ancient, preserved in Dairy, 222 Dailly, parish of, 381 — its civil history, 384-— land -owners in, 384 — o:iacella- neous observations on, 991 — ^village of» 388 Dairy husbandry, systems of, 154, 195^ 226, 261, 283, 300, 927, 420, 546^ 590, 612, 658, 680, 712. 802 Dalduff, ruins of the castle of, 965 Dale, David, 140— birth-place of, 729 Dalgain, origin of the name of, 126 Dalgarven, village of, 829 Dttlgerrock house, 529 Dalkaimy linn, 335 Dalmellington, parish of, 908 — its his- tory, 3)3 — miscellaneous observations on,' 321- village of, 309 Dalquharran, collieries of, 382 Dairy, parish of, 2 1 — origin of the oanie, 210 — its civil history, 217 — land-own- ers in, 219 — ^improvements in, W9 - manufactures in, 232 — miscellaneous observations on, 242 — town of, 233 Dalrymple, parish of, 273— its civil his- tory, 277— land -owners in, 278— mi- nisters of, from 1642, 285— miscella- neous observations on, 287 — village of, 284 . Dalrymple, Rev. Angus, 144 Dalrymple, family of, 278 Dalrymple, a student, murder of» by Mure of Auchendrane, 362 Dame Helen's castle, ruins of, 815 Danish camp on Knockgeorgan, 108 Dankeith house, 568 Darvel, village of, 850, 851 Davidson, Patrick, bequest by, 115 Dean castle, ruins of, 541 Deans, William, 731 De Eglinton, Sir Hugh, 582 Derdeuch loch, 334 Dhuisk water, the, 529 Dick, James, bequest by, 81 Dick, Quintin, a covenanter, 314 Dickson, Rev. Mr, 627, 630 Dispensary, the Ayr, 76 — the Kilmar- nock, 561 Dissenters and Dissenting chapels, 69; 101, 123. 145, 156, 165, 177, 188, 207, 236, 303, 320, 330, 342, d74> 389, 404, 422, 459, 469, 489, 521, 527, 532, 565, 557, 569, 598, 616 633, 635, 668, 685, 722, 738, 762, 767, 771, 780, 785, 808, 831, 851 Distincthom, hill of, 179 Dollars, mansion-bouse of, 610 INDEX. 863 Dominican monastery at Ayr, aite of the, 96 Donaldson, John, Esq. improvements effected by, 418 Doon loch, 334 Doon river, the, 7, 275, 310, 334, 350, 494 — change in the direction of its course, 8 — scenery of, in Dalmelling- ton, 309 Doonholm house, 4 Doonside, ruins of the castle of, 365 Dornal, ruins of castle at, 325 — ^loch of, 529 Dornell well, the, 246 Douglas, Heron, and Co. the bank of, 58 Doura, village of, 829 Draining, systems and extent of, 139, 228, 300, 367, 387, 484, 537, 613, 681, 759, 766, 803 Draining tiles, manufactory of, 184 Dreghorn, parish of, 523 — its history, 523— village of, 526 Drongan, collieries of, 639 — ruins of cas- tle at, 642— house, 643 — village of, 647 Druidical remains on Cuff hill, 579 — celt found in Torbolton, 747 — ^re- mains in Kirkoswald, 783 Drumbeg, Roman remains found at, 366 Drumdow, collieries of, 639 Drumlamford house, 529 Drumore loch, 463 Dubbs, stone coffins found at, 454 Dubs water, the, 692 Dumfries house, 482 Dundonald, parish of, 666— its civil his- tory, 671 — ^land-owners in, 673— mis* cellaneous obser^'ations on, 688— vil- lage of, 667 — ruins of the castle of, 675— family of, 675 Dunduff, ruins of the castle of, 365 — an- cient camp at, 365 — ancient coins found at, 366 Dunlop, parish of, 288— its dvil history, 292— land-owners in, 293— ministers of from the Reformation, 304— house, remains of, 294— modem mansion- house of, 294 — village of, 302 Dunlop, Elizabeth, execution of for witchcraft, 217 Dunlop of Dunlop, family of, 293, 296 Dunlop, Lieut- -General, 293 Dunure, ruins of the castle of, 365— har- bour of, 373 Dusk water, the, 572 — remarkable cave at, 211 Dyrock bum, the 493, 495 Eastburn, the, 728 Ecclesia-^tical statistics and history, 67, 100, 113, 123, H4, 156, 165, 176, 187, 205, 235^ 264, 284, 803, 319, 330, 342, 373, 388, 403, 412, 422, 488, 504, 521, 527, 532, 554, 569, 593, 614. 629, 647, 662, 684, 719, 737, 760, 767, 771, 779, 785, 805, 830,851 Education, statistics of, 70, 102, 115, 123, 145, 156, 166, 177, 188, 208, 237, 265, 286, 305, 320, 332, 344, * 376, 389, 404, 412, 423, 470, 489, 506, 521, 527, 532, 558, 569, 598, 616, 636. 648, 663. 686, 723, 739, 763, 768, 773, 780, 786, 808, 831, 852 Eglinton, origin of the femily of, 582 — Sir Hugh de, 582 Eglinton tournament, the, 825 — castle, 826 Elf house, the, a cave in Dairy, 211 Encroachment of the sea, ancient, at Ayr, 35 Eugenius, site of the death of, 41 Faa, Sir John, 497 Fail loch, 766 — ruins of the monastery of, 748— water, 743 Fairlie of Fairlie, family of, 798 Fairiie house, 678— village of, 804 Fairly bum, 246, 790 Fairs and markets, 84, 117, 146, 157, 167, 190, 209, 240, 807, 321, 332, 379, 413, 472, 487, 491, 522, 564, 687, 725, 763, 809, 833 Furm -buildings, state of, in Barr, 41 1 — in Dairy, 229— in Galston, 186— in Kilbride, 263— in Kilmarnock, 548 — in Mairkirk, 155 Female friendly societies, 80 Fen wick, parish of, 773 — ^its civil his* tory, 775 Fenwick, site of the defeat of, by Wal- lace, 180 Fergus loch, 6, 660 Fergusbill, village of, 829 Fergushill, Rev. Mr, 114 Ferguson, Mrs, bequest by, 236 FeiguKSon, John, Esq. of Doonholm, 34— bequests by, 70, 71, 82 Fiars prices for Ayr, the, from 1826 to 1836, 51 Fii.Ias loch, 334 Finlay, James, and Co. works of, at Ca« trine, 140 Finlay, Rev. Mr, 467 Finky, Rev. Dr Robert, 539 Fisheries, salmon, 14, 51,200,214,275, 370, 402, 416, 420, 670, 692, 696, 785 Fisheries, sea, 52, 89, 97, 196, 248, 370, 402,420, 462,531,785 Fishermen of Newton, habits of the, 95 Forbes, William, Esq. of Callander, 93 864 AYRSHIRE. Fossil remains found in Maybole, 953 — Bbells, bed of, near Ardrossan, 194 Franciscan monastery at Ayr, site of the, 87 Frazer of Knock, family of, 799 Freemasonry, origin and introduction of, into Scotland, 823 Freemen, rights of, in Newton-on-Ayr, 91 Friars' well at Ayr, tbe, 37 Fuel and its expense, 84, 104, I! 7, 125, 157, 167, 177, 210, 241, 267, 287, 307, 321, 332, 347, 379, 413, 424, 490, 508, 533, 570, 618, 665, 688, 726, 740, 764, 833 Fullarton house, 678 --town of, 679 FttUarton, Rev. James, 595 Fulton, Humphrey, 587 Gadgirtb castle, 656 Oadgirthbolm, village of, 662 Gaelic church at Ardrossan, 207 Gart locb, the, 180 Gals ton, parish of, 178 — its civil his- tory, 180 — miscellaneous observations on, 190 — pebble, the, 179 — village of, 187 Gult, John, birth-place of, 627 Games in Kilmarnock, various, 544 Gameshill, limestone quarries at, 291, 301 Gamock water, tbe, 21 1, 212, 436, 619, 690, 691, 812 — change in its course, 427— spout of, 691 Garpel water, the, 130, 149 Garrallan house, 482 Garryhome, ruins of the castle of, 365 Gas-works, tbe Dairy, 220 Gateside, village of, 593 Gemmii of Templehouse, family of, 296 Geology and mineralogy, 11, 88, 106, 118, 130, 149, 160, 171, 179, 194, 213, 246, 269, 275, 290, 311, 323, 335, 351, 382, 395, 408, 437, 477, 493, 510, 536, 565, 573, 606, 637, 651, 668, 693, 728, 743, 774, 790, 611,813,835 Giffen, history of the barony of, 581 — ruins of the castle of, 583 GiUies, Dr, 732 Gillies* hill, tbe, 578 Gilmour, Barbara, 300 Gilmour, John, 732 Girgenti.bouse, 734 Girvan, parish of, 394 — ^its civil bis- tory, 396 — land -owners of, 396 — mis- cellaneous observations on, 406 — town of, 403— water, 335, 350, 395, 493, 494 Glasgow and Ayr railway, tbe, 66 — Union Bank, branch of, at Ayr, 58 Gasnock house, 482— water, 476 Glasart water, 290, 728 Glenalhi, biU of, 492 Glenayes, ruins of the castle of, 865 Glenbuck, locbs at, 149 — viUage of, 156 Glencairn, family of, 452, 777 Glengamock, barony of, 700 — ruins of tbecastleof, 691, 706 Glengaw bum, 2 Glenlee, Lord, 641 Glenmore, 323— water, 476 Glenstaing bum, 476 Gogo water, 789 Goldberrie, headland of, 244— hiU, de- feat of tbe Danes at, 250 Gourock water, 246 Grange, mansion-bouse of, 451 Greenan, ruins of tbe castle of, 365 Greenock water, 130, 149 Guiltree hill, 492 — Danish camp on, 496 Guthrie, Rev. Mr, 775, 776 Habits of the people, see Population, character of Halket locb, drainage of, 290 Hallerbirst, limestone quarry at, 438 Hamilton, James, Viscount ClandeboyeSi 292 Hamilton, the Rev. Hans, 304 Hamilton, General Alexander, 456 Hamilton, John, E^q. of Sundrum, 654 Harbour of Ayr, the, 55 — of Ardro8saii» 202 Harpercroft, ancient camps at, 678 Hastings, family of, 838 — the late Mar- quis of, 841— Lady Flora, 844 Haugh, village of, 164, 165 Hayocks, mansion-house of, 451 Hazlebead castle, 585 Helenas c»3tle, ruins of, 315 HeugbmUl loch, 766 High Priesthill, water-spout at, 148 Higbfield, limestone quarries at, 232 Hill, the, in Torbolton, 747 Hillend of Pitcon, colliery of, 232 Hillbouse, mansion-bouse of, 678 History, dvU, 18, 91, 107, 1 19, 152, 160, 180, 217, 250, 277, 292, 313, 324, 336, 355, 384, 396, 409, 452, 479. 492, 517, 523, 529, 538, 566, 576, 607, 619, 641, 653, 671, 697, 729^ 747, 769, 775, 782, 793, 115, 836 History, ecclesiastical, see Ecclesiastical statistics Hollybusb, mansion-bouse of, 273 Horse island, the, 192 Hordcultural and Agricultund Society of Ayrshire, tbe, 64 Howie, Jobn, birth-place of, 777 Howrat, limestone quarries at, 232 Hullerhlrst house, 451 Hunty Mrs, of Ashgrovei bequest by, 236 INDEX. SG5 Hunter and Company, the bank of, 58 Hunter, John, 253 Hunterston, c'eith of the laird of, at Pin- kie, *251 Hurlford, village of, 614 Husbandry, systems of, 48. Ill 120, 139, 154, 163, 175, 184. 186, ^6, 261, 282, 299, 341, 387, 400, 411, 420, 484, 526, 530, 546, 590, 6ia 645, 658, 712, 736. 758, 766, 802, 828 Hutchison, Rev. George, 630 Hydrography, 5, 106, 149, 159, 193, 212,246,274. 290, 310, 323, 334,350, 395, 436,493, 494, 510, 528, 566, 637, 650, 69Cs 728, 743, 789, 812 I Ichthyology, 89 Incorporated trades of Ayr, the, 62 Influenza, ravages of, in Ayr, '80 Inns and alehouses, and their effects, 84, 104, 117, 125, 143. 147, 157, 167, 190, 202, 209, 240, 267, 287, 807, 321, 332, 347, 379, 413, 424, 472, 491, 508, 522, 527, 533, 564, 570, 618, 648, 665, 688, 726, 740, 763, •833, 855 Internal communication, means of, see Roads Irishlaw hill, 787 Iron works, the Muirkirk, 155 Ironstone beds of, in Beitb, 574 — in Coylton, 652— in Dairy, 213— in Kil> birnie, 693, 694— in Som, 130 Irrigation, improvement by, in Dairy, 230 — improvement of Mansfield by, 515 Irvine, parish of, 619 — ^its history, 619 — ministers of, from 1570, 619 — town of, 619— its trade, 620, 621— its his- tory, 621 — and revenue, 623 — public buUdings in, 624 — ^its civic constitu- tion, 626 — manufactures in, 626 — its population, 627— harbour of, 683 — water, 179, 437, 606, 619 Jackson, Professor, 33 Jail, the Ayr, 83 James V., visit of, to Som castle, 136 Johannes Scotus, birth-place of, 28 Joppa, village of, 662 Karae hill, 244 — Millstone quarry at, 247 Kelly bum, 790 Kemp's castle, 109 Kemplaw, vitrified fort on, 677 Kennedy, family of, 499 Kennedy of Cullayne, murder of, by Mure of Auchendrane, 362 Kennedy, Quentin, discussion of, with Knox, 356 KeonstCMi, ancient camp at, 496 Repping bum, the, 790 Ker of Fergushill, family of, 218 Ker, Robert, of Kersland, the covenan- ter, 218 Kerila casUe, ruins, of 451, 452, 453, 455 Kerr, John, bequest by, 602 Kerse castle, remains of, 281 — loch, 274 Kersland, collieries of, 231 Kilbirnie, parish of, 689— its civil his- tory, 697:— ministers of, 719 — gene, ral observations on, 726 — barony of, 699 — house, ruins of, 705 — ^loch,571, 690, 692— village of, 716— hiUs, 211 Kilbride, West, parish of, 243 — origin of the name, 243 — its civil history, 250 — land-owners of, 253 — miscella- neous observations on, 267^-village of, 264— water, 246 Kilhenzie, ruins of the castle of, 365* Kilkerran castle, ruins of, 384 Kill water, the, 637, 651 Kilmarnock parish of, 535 — its civil his- tory, 538 — land-owners in,' 540 — im- provements in, 546 — town of, 553 — destruction of, by fire, 539 — accident in the church of, 540 — its public build- ings, 542 — its manufactures, ' 551 — loyalty of its inhabitants in 1745, 560 — newspapers published in, 561 — charitable institutions in, 561 Kilmarnock, origin of the femily of, 258 Kilmarnock, Lord, capture of, in 1745, 539 Kilmaurs, parish of, 769 — civil history of, 769 — land-owners in, 771 — ^town of, 769— water, 769 Kilmaurs, family of, 770 Kilwinning, parish of, 811 — its history, 815— ministers of, from 1567, 821— miscellaneous observations on, 833 — monastery of, its revenues and abbots, 816, 818, 820— origin of the masonic lodge of, 823^town of, 829 Kingcase or Kincase, the hospital of, 75 — ruins of it, 173 King Coirs tomb, 751 King's cave, the, in Little Cumbray,270 King's well, the, 136 Kirkbride, ruinsof the church of, 364 Kirk Domine, ruins of, 409 Kirkhill castle, ruins of, 529 Kirkiie green, remains at, 578 Kirkmichael, parish of, 492 — its civil history, 495 — ^land-owners of, 495 — ministers o( from 1638, 505 — man* sion- house of, 500 — ^loch, 493 — vil- lage, 504 Kirkoswald parish of, 781 — its civil his- tory, 782 — land-owners in, 784 Knipe hill, the, 509 Knockdaw castle, ruins of, 529 Knockdolian castle, ruins of, 5$S9 866 AYRSUIHE. Knockdon bill, 475 Knockgeorgan hill, IQl-r-remains of Da- nish camp on, 198 Knockmead hill, 289 Knockshoggle. village of, 662 Knockside hUl, 787 Kyle, origin of the name of, 755 Kyle castle, ruins of. 325 Kyles, game of, 223 Lady Crawford's society, 80 Ladykirk in Kyle, ruins of, 173 Ladyland, barony of, 702 — old house, ruins of, 707 — modem mansion-house of, 708 Laggan loch, 395 Laght Alpine, ruins of, 315 Laighshaw, Druidical stone at, 152 Lainshaw house, 734 Landsborough, Rev. Dr, 467 Langlands, remarkable tumulus at, 704 Lang ridge of Kyle, the, 159 Language, improvements in, in Dairy, 222 Larch, first introduction of the, into Scotland, 160 Largs, parish of, 786 — its civil history, 793— land-owners in, 797 — ministers of, from 1567, 806 — miscellaneous observations on, 810 — town of, 786, 804 — its harbour and shipping, 804— gas-works of, 809 — ^banks and bran- ches in, 809— battle of, 794 Law courts, the Ayr, 57 Law failU the, 244, 566 Lead, workings for, in Muirkirk, 150 Lendal water, 395 Libraries and literature, 72, 103, 124, 145, 157, 166, 208, 238, 266, 306. 320, 332, 345, 377, 390, 405, 412, 424, 471, 490, 506, 522, ;561, 603, 723, 739, 763, 809, 852 Life»boat, the Ardrossan, 203 Lighthouse on Little Cumbray, the, 270 Lindsay, Rev. Mungo, 134, 144 Lindston loch, 274 Linn, ancient urns found at, 220 Linsayston, ruins of chapel at, 496 Little Cumbray, island of, 243, 244, 269 — ^lighthouse on, 270 — castle on, 271 Live-stock, breeds of, and their manage- ment, 50, 111, 120, 140, 154, 186, 195, 200, 225, 261, 298, 317, 34], 370, 386, 399, 411, 520, 526, 530, 545, 568, 590, 645, 657, 736, 758, 767, 828 Loans bridge, mineral spring at, 212 Lochs, various in Ochiltree, 106 Loch Brown, 159, 766 Loch Doon, 334-»niin8 of the castle of, 337 Lochend, 651 LochPergusid Lochlee, 743 Lochton, loch of, 395 Logan, Hugh, of Logan, 481 Logan, mansion house of, 482 Longevity, instances of, in Dunlop, 290 Loudon, parish of, 634 — its dvil history, 836— landowners in, 845— castte, 846 -*hill, 835— battle of,8d6— its site, 1 81 Loudon, family of, 838 Loudon, the Dowager Countess of, im- provements by, 132 Lugar water, 106, 169, 323, 476 * Lugton water, 290, 572, 812 Mabeiry, loch of, 529 M^Adam and Co. bunk of, 58 M'Adam, Gilbert, a Covenanter, death of, 496 M'Adam, John Loudon, birth-place of, 31 M'Connell; James, 587 M*Gavin, William, author of the Protest- ant, birth-place of, 3*25 MacGealian, a Covenanter, tomb of, 482 MacGregor, Colonel, 609 Mttchry hill, ruins of chapel at, 884 M^Janet, Mr, improvements by, 369 MacKnight, Dr, 363 MacKnight, Rev. William, 683 MacNider, John, bequest by, 558 Magnesia, manufactory of, at Saltcoats, 460 Maich water, the, €91, 692 Main castle, ruins of, 181 Mains burn, the, 692 Mair, John, 33 Major, John, connection of, with Dun- lop, 292 Mansfield, lime kilns of, 513 Manufactures, various, in Ayr, 53 — ^in Newton, 98— Ochiltree, 113— Som, 140— Muirkirk, 155— Mauchline, 164 — Galston, 190^Dalry, 232- KU. bride, 263— Dalrymple, 28 1 — Dalmel. lington, 318— Auchinleck, 329— May- bole, 371 — Stevenston, 460— Old Cumnock, 485— Kirkmichael, 503— Kilmarnock, 551— Beith, 590— Ric carton, 612— Irvine, 626— Stair, 644 Coylton, 659— Kilbimie, 715— Stew- arton, 736 — Torbolton, 759— Kil- maurs, 771 — Kirkoswald, 784 — Lou- don, 850 Martinham, loch of, 274 Martnaham loch, 650 Masonry, origin of, and its introductioii into Scotland, 823 Mauchline, parish of, 158 — origin of the name, 158 — its dvil history, 160 — landowners of, 161— church of, 162 — ^miscellaneous observations on, 167 — ^hill, 159 — ^muir, engagement a^ 161 — ^town of, 164 INDEX. 867 Mauchliue, Lord, adventnre of, 8d7 Maulside, mineral spring at, 212-^house, 220 Maybole, parish of, d48 — its citi] his- tory, 355 — landowners of, 968 — ^mis- cellaneous observations on,S79 — ruins of the eastle of, «%5-~town of, 373 Mayville house, 451 Mechanics* institute, the Ayr, 78 Medical association, the Ayr, 6d Menteath of Gloseburn, improvements effected by, 519 Merchants* company of Ayr, the, 60 ' Meteorological register, the, kept at Ca- trine works, 128 Meteorology and climate, 4, 86, 127, 148, 159, 180, 192, 211, 245, 278, 290, 310, 823, 384> 849, 894, 417, 482, 434, 492, 509, 535, 575, 650, 668, 690, 728, 774, 788, 812 Millar of Dalswinton, steam-vessel con- structed by, 480 Millburn, the, 246 MiUer, Sir Thomas, 641— Sir William (Lord Glenlee), 641 Miirig house, 610 Mineralogy, 18, 179, 193, see also Geo- logy Minnoch water, 408 Mitchell of Maulside, improvements by, 280 Mitchell, A. plantations formed by, 216 Moat of Alloway, remains of the, 99 Moat of Ochiltree, the, 109 Mochrum. hill and loch of, 781 MfMim, Lord, sketch of the career of, 841 Molmonthill, 179 Monastery, the Dominican, at Ayr, 86 — the Franciscan, 87 — of Kilwinning, the, 816 Monfode burn, 193 Moiifode, death of the laird of, at Pkikie, 251 Monkcastle house, 8*26 Monkton and Prestwick, united parishes of, 169— origin of the narae^ 169, 170 — civil history of, 172 — landowners in, 173 — miscellaneous observations on, 178 Mffin8 found at Auchenmede, 220 ~«t Barbieston, 280-^at Dubbs, 454 in Kilbifnie, 703-~«t Kirklie green, 578— in Loudon paric, 845 Straiton, parish o( SSS^ts civil his- tory, 336 — land-owners in, 337 — mi- nisters of, from 1690, d44--m1sGellA- neous observations on, 347 — ^viUage of, 342 Sundnim castle, 661, 656 Swinsey water, 728 Swinridgemuir house, 220 Sword, ancient, found at Dairy, 220 Symington, parish of, 565-^landowner8 in, 566— village oi, 565 Tarn o*Shanter, scene of, 38 Tannel, custom of the, 229 Tarelaw fall, 335 Taylor, James, first steam-vessel con- structed by, 480 Tennant, Captain Robert, bei|uest by, 82 Terringzean castle, ruins of, 482 Thom the sculptor, birth-place of, 757 . Thomaston castle, ruins of, 782 Three Sisters, rocks of the, 245 Thugartstane, the, 294 Tig water, the, 416 Tiles, manufactory of, in Ck>ylton, 659 Torbol, the, 747 Torbolton, parish of, 741 — ^its dvil his- tory, 747 — ^landowners in, 757 — mi- nisters of, from 1362, 762— locb, 743 town of, 760 Torcorse hill, loch on, 743 Tournament, the E^nton, 825 Townend house, 567 Towns and villages — Afton Bridgend, 520— Alton, 851— Ardrowan, 201— Auchinleck, 330— Auchmillan, 165— Auldton, 851— Ayr, 18» 66— Biillan. tne, 416, 418, 421— Barr, 409l- Beith, 570, 591— Blook, 734— Biiig- end, 520— Bumhoute, 598 — Catrine, 140, 143— Ck>lmoneU, 581— Content, 120— Coylton, 660, 662— CiXMduB, 494,503, 505— Cumnock, 487— DaiU ly, 388 — Dalgarven, 829 — Dal- mellingfiDn, 809— Dairy, 333— Dal- rymple, 284— Darvel, 850, 851— Doura, 829— Dreghom, 5d6 — Dnm- gan, 647 — Dundorndd, 667 — Dnnlop, 302— FairUe, 804— Feisgvsfaill, 829— FuUarton,679— Gadgirth4ioliMe^— Galston, 187— Oateside, 503— Gir- van, 403— Glenbuck, 156— Haugh, 164, 165— Hurlford, 614— Irrine, 619— Joppa, 662— Kilbiniie^ 716— Kilbride, 264— Kilmanock, 580, 553 — Kilmaura, 76»— Kilwinniiig, 829^ KSrkmichael,504— KnockabogiiMaS Largs, 786, 804— MancUine, 164* Maybole, 876— Monkton, 171, 174, 1 76— NewCttronock, 590— New DniL ly, 388— NewmOls, 850— Newttm- iipon-Ayr, 99— Nortbbor, 693— Pstfa- head, 520— Patna, 342— PreaCwick, 172— Prestwid[ toll, 174, 176— RSe- carton, 607, 610, 614— Saltconts, 201, 454— Sorn, 143— Sonihill, 614— Steveuston, 453— Stewaiton, 737— Straiton, 342— Symington, 565— Tor- bolton, 760— Wallacetown, 120* Whitelets, 122 Trabodi, barony of, 108 Trees, ancient camp at, 865 Trees, remarkable, at'Blair house, 216— in Maucbline, 160— at Skeldon, 277 Treesbank house, 610 'Tribboch, ruins of oastle at, 642 Troon, harbour of, 684 Tucker, Thomas, report by, on the state of Irvine in 1656, 620 Tumuli, ancient, in Dairy, 290— in Kil- bimie, 708— at- Langhmda, 704— at Polqubaiae, 517 Tumberry castle, ruins of, 782 TwE Brigs," the, 7 Underwood house, 765 Urns, ancient, fonnd near Ayr, 40— st Barassie, 677— at Content, 120— in 6 M INDEX. 871 Kilbiniie, 703 — at Linn &c. 220 — at SeamiU, 258— at Stewarton, 784 — at Threepwood, 578 Vitrified fort at Kemplaw, remains of, 677 Wages, rates of, 50, 1 1 1, 225, 288, 296, 840, 899, 419, 485, 518, 581, 545, 591, 612, 712. 828 Walker, Rev. James, 465 Wallace of Craigie, family and residence of, 98 Wallace, Sir M^am, traditions regard- ing, 172, 180, 886— exploit of, 21— capture of Ardrossan castle by, 197 — residence of, in Riccarton, 606 — ring belonging to, 197 Wallace tower, tbe, 24 Wallacetown, village of, 120^ quod «a- cra parish of, 128 — rocking-stone at, 826 Warner, Rev. Patrick, a covenanter, 457, 680 Warrick hill house, 525 Water of-Ayr^tone, the, 18, 688 Waterspout, damage done by a, on Muir- kirk,]48 Watt, Dr Robert, 780 West Kilbride, parish of, 248 — origin of theiuune,'248 — its dvil history, 250 — land-owners of, 258 — miscellaneous observations on, 267 White, Rev Mr, 684 Whitehaugh water, 149 Whitehill, coins found at, 517 Whitelets, village of, 122 Wilkies' plough, 549 Wilkinson, Rev. Stephen, 465 Williamfield house, 567 Wilson of Haylie, family of, 800 Wilson, William, of Cumnock, 588 Winds, tables of the, 87 Witchcraft, trials for, in Irvine, 682 — in Dairy, 217 Witherspoon, Rev. John, 597 Wodrow, Rev. Dr James, 467 Wodrow the historian, residence of the son of, 272 Woods, natural, in Muirkirk, 151->sce also Plantations Wright, Rev. Dr, 868 Writers* society of Ayr, the, 68 Young; Rev. John, 594 Zoology and natural history, 14, 89, 181, 195, 214, 247, 291, 812, 886, 358, 446, 478, 516, 588, 652, 669, 695, 746, 798» 814 ritlNTEn HV JOHN SFAnK* OLD ASSt^BLY CLOSL, CDIKBUnGH BUTE. V CONTENTS. CUMBRAE, KlLBRIDEj KILMORIB, KINGARTU, ROTHESAY, PAGE 69 1 40 . - 82 95 ' /4i ^ . I «r~>i 5! Tl ; 1 }- - «3 _fe ^ ■^' ^W i ' . , . : ■■ * .*ii|i./^^j MjI'^^Hit'fcaF^X^^ir'WSl^^^^ ^ff } - , ^|^S^|^^^^%tff^^-|f^^[|^ - ^^1^^^«^^'^(^I!*^^.SS^ ' BB^W^^Hy^^^W^' ' yW^&^Ri^i^tjy^^frk^^ f ^**^ 'f/^i^'' '' ^^^^N(i^^fcJ-3^^ ^^%i^^^^^ Q^ ' 4ii^^^' !l^|^?|g^Wi'^K;% ' ' ' r^^^^^'J^^"'''^''^^ ' ' / ^^"- ^ -*r ' ISLAND OF ARRAN. PARISH OF KILBRIDE. PRESBYTERY OF KINTYRE, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. THE REV. ALLAN M'NAUGHTON, D.D. MINISTER. I.— Topography and Natural History. This parish is situated in the mouth of the Clyde, and forms the smaller of two very extensive parishes, which divide between them the magnificent and strikingly picturesque Island of Arran. The small Island of Lamlash, or the Holy Isle, as it is sometimes called, also belongs to it. Name. — The name of the parish requires little explanation, be- ing obviously a compound formed by Aj7/, the well known Gaelic name for a buryiog-place, and Bride or Bridget^* that once po- pular female saint, whose name still lives in the names of so many parishes and other places, both in Scotland and other kingdoms. The etymology of the name of the island itself is dis« puted. Some derive it from the two Gaelic words Arr and Inn^ the High Island ; and others from Arr Fhinn, the slaughter or field of Fingal, conceiving it to have received its name from a battle said to have been fought at the north end of the island by Fingal against a son of the King of Norway, whose forces he to- tally exterminated. The field in which the battle was fought, is still called Arrin by the natives. Dr MacCulloch smiles at this etymology ; and having made the notable discovery, that ^^ Fin- gal was never heard of in Arran till lately,'* insists that Ar-« ran is simply ancient British, signifying a land of mountains. His etymology is most probably correct ; and if we consider ancient British and Gaelic as kindred branches of the Celtic, it is sub- stantially the same as the first mentioned above. But his state- ment in connection with it is a bold one even for Dr MacCulloch ; * An interesting and amusing outline of the history of St Bridget, or Brigid occurs in the first volume of Moore*s History of Ireland in the Cabinet Cyclopedia. It dif- fers in some particulars from that given by Scotch antiquarians.— Vide Pennant's Tour, under the head of ** Abernethy," with the authorities there referred to. BUTE. A 2 BUTESHIRE. and if made in the presence of any Highlander in Arran, his sur- prise would not be less than that of any Lowland Scot, whom he might try to convince that ^' Bruce and Wallace were never heard of in Scotland till lately/' Boundaries, — I'he ecclesiastical division of Arran has been made longitudinally. Kilbride occupies the whole of its east side, except a couple of miles at its south end ; and is spread over a surface of country from 20 to 22 miles in length from the Cock of Arran, a noted sea*mark at its northern extremity, to Dippin, a farm in the south. It varies in breadth from 2 to 4 miles, or 4^ miles from the shore to the top of a continuous range of mountains, which separates it from the parish of Kilmorie. It contains about 42,000 imperial acres. Topographical Appearances. — The most prominent feature in the general aspect of the parish is its alpine character. The greater proportion of it consists of mountains and high hills, which present considerable variety of outline and appearance. From the southern point of the parish to Brodick, their height is but mode- rate, averaging not more than 800 feet above the level of the sea. They rise for the most part in gentle acclivity from the cultivated grounds near the shore ; present few bold precipices or rugged outlines, and are clothed with a mixture of green grass and brown heather to their tops; but from Brodick to Liochranza their character entirely changes. A considerable way up, a few of them have the usual mountain covering ; but many are bare precipices from their very foundations ; and the greater number raise their naked tops to the sky in stupendous pyramids and spires of rough granite. As seen from certain portions, they appear to the behold- er as if they had but yesterdlay been upheaved from their primitive beds, below the bottom of the ocean. The absolute height of these mountains is not very great, the elevation of GoatfeU (in Gaelic Gaoth Cheinn^ the mountain of winds), falling somewhat short of 3000 feet. But presenting as they do, at a glance, their full dimensions from the shore to their tops, and being congre- gated together in one stupendous group, Goatfell, towering above the rest, like a proud Highland chief surrounded by the cadets of bis clan, few scenes can in their general effect be more impressive- ly grand and magnificent. In Scotland there is no alpine scenery that can in all respects match them, except, perhaps, that of the CuchuUin hills in Skye. These mountains are intersected by deep cories and narrow glens, whose dark and sombre abysses produce 4 KILBRIDE. 3 an effect upon the mind as overwhelming as the majestic moun- tains among which they repose. This is especially the case with Glenrosa, after proceeding a short way beyond its mouth ; and with Glen Sannox, " the sublime in magnitude, and sim- plicity, and obscurity, and silence."* Some miles north from Glen Sannox, another scene presents itself, quite different in cha. racter from these, but scarcely less imposing to the view. A large mass of the mountain which crowns that part of the island having given way, and broken into numberless detached fragments, these are seen for more than a mile of rapid declivity, in promiscuous disorder, piled upon e^ch other : presenting the appearance of an army flying before a superior force, one fugitive with his enormous bulk pressing down another, and both threatened with being over- whelmed by a still more gigantic form behind. This rocky stream continues its flow till it reaches the ocean. The parish, both to the north and south, presents many other scenes of wild and savage magnificence. Those of soft and roman- tic beauty are not less numerous. Round almost the whole of the sea coast, except where the landscape is indented by the valleys and bays, there is a narrow and level border of land, walled up on the landward side by a high ridge of rocks, which the sea appears to have washed when its level was higher than at present. In some places this ridge is a series of rude cliffs and naked precipices ; but in general, and more especially from Sannox to Brodick, it is ex- ceedingly beautiful and picturesque ; its rugged features disappear- ing amid the luxuriant ivy which clings to its face, and the rich clothing of natural birch, ash, oak, and thick brushwood which springs up among its numerous clefts, and crowns its top, covering, without concealing it. Here a cave scooped out by the sea, there a romantic amphitheatre formed by one of its numerous bends ; and next a white cascade tumbling over the precipices, — give a va- riety to its successive aspects, which is ever and anon tempting the traveller to stop and admire. For scenery, combining in a high degree both the beautiful and the sublime, the grounds about Sannox and the two bays of Brod- ick and Lamlash, will .always attract attention. Mid- Sannox is formed by nature for being the site of a baronial residence. With its deep dark glen retiring behind, Cir mor, and Ceum na callick "f- towering majestically above it, its extensive grounds clothed in beautiful copsewood, and spreading out in gentle and varied undu- * MacCulloch. f Cir Mor^ Gaelic, the large comb. Ceum na CaUkh, Gaelic, the Hag*8 step. 4 BOTESHinE. lations on every side, and its romantic river now buried amid deep ravines, and now seen threading its way in meandering curves to the sea, it is the very spot which an architect of taste would choose for giving a local habitation to his pencil's ablest design. Nature and art have both contributed largely to the rare combination of beauty and grandeur, which distinguishes the scenery round Bro- dick Bay. The bay itself is a deep regular curve of about two miles in length, belted the greater part of its compass with a beach of fine sand ; whence an extensive and level plain, ornamented with -cottages, villas, cultivated fields, and flourishing plantations, retires inwards, till it meets the beautiful and romantic valleys of Glen- rosa, Glensheraig, and Glencloy. On its north side, Arran Castle, the insular residence of the Duke of Hamilton, shows a glimpse of its roof and battlements, among the trees of the richly wooded elevation on which it stands, pleasure grounds and exten. sive plantations surrounding it ; Goatfell rising in the rear, and the whole line of the opposite frith, with the distant hills on the mainland in the foreground. Lamlash is very little indebted to art, but its capabilities are very great ; and, with the addition of a few plantations on ground which is at present yielding nothings and the cultivation of some waste land, well adapted for the oi)e- rations of the plough, it could be made a place of very great beauty. Even in its present state, no lover of nature can behold its striking scenery without admiring it The noble bay which forms its most prominent feature is a semicircle, from its northern to its south- ern extremity, fully three miles in length. In the mouth of it stands the Holy Isle ; so picturesque by the beauty of its shape, which is an irregular cone, nearly 900 feet high ; and its variegat-. ed surface, where heath-clad hills and grassy ridges are seen in- termingled with naked red sandstone, surmounted by rude basaltic columns piled tier above tier upon each other. On each side of the island, there is a convenient entrance into the bay, which it both adorns and protects ; and within, a harbour, with excellent hold- ing ground, of sufficient depth of water for vessels of all sizes, and room enough for accommodating the largest fleet. Oppo- site to the island, and about the centre of the bay, stands the neat village of Lamlash, spread in a beautiful curve along the beach, with a sloping bank, crowned with thriving wood behind it. The rest of the scenery round the bay possesses much of that variety which the lovers of the picturesque delight to behold. On the west side lies the vale of Lamlash, a beautiful tract of well-culti- vated and well-watered alluvial soil, reposing among hills of beau- KTLBRIDE. 5 tifully varied outline ; on the nerth and east, the grounds about the manse, rising in gentle slopes and undulations towards the hills, intersected by numerous streams and rivulets ; on both sides of the bay, in approaching its two extremities, a line of thick copse- wood, clothing and sometimes hiding the barrier of precipitous rocks and cliffs which separate the level ground along the shore, from the cultivated^ land above ; and everywhere streams with wood*covered banks, which, along with the plantations on the hill behind the village, in the romantic glen of Altachorvie, and other places, gives the bay upon the whole a warm and clothed api- pearance. Whitingbay, to the south of Lamlash, is here entitled also to its own share of notice. It wants the bold features of the scenery farther north ; but it presents many spots of soft and ro- mantic beauty, more especially about the glen of Ashdale. Here, as.well as elsewhere along the coast, most eligible spots for neat and elegant villas are continually meeting the eye ; and if it suit-* ed the views of the proprietor to grant building-leases, all these would soon be occupied. Opulent individuals from Glasgow and Ayrshire would in a few years ornament the whole line of coast from Sannox to Largiebeg, with a succession of neat summer ha- bitations for themselves and families, and make Arran the most attractive island in the West Highlands. Climate. — The climate of the parish is upon the whole mild and moderate. There is seldom any long continuance of intense heat in summer; and as seldom of extreme cold and frost in wiiiter. Goatfell and the neighbouring hills are in winter usually covered with a mantle of snow. But on the lower grounds in the valleys along the coast, in the heaviest storms, snow seldom lies more than a day ; and so rarely are there any severe visitations of frost and biting east winds, that at Arran Castle^ and the Whitehouse, many of the plants of warmer regions stand the whole winter in the open air. Among these may be mentioned geraniums, myrtles, fuschias. Calceolaria mgosay Passiflora ccsrvlea^ Camellia^ Hydrangea hor^ tensisy and Magnolia grandiflora. It must be acknowledged, how* ever, that what the parish wants in snow and frost, is abundantly made up to it in rain ; of which few places even in the Hebrides re- ceive a more liberal share. The prevailing winds are the south and the west, which almost always bring copious showers along with them. And from the great bulk and height of the Arran moun« tains, which attract every cloud from the Atlantic as it passes, they often come charged with such overwhelming floods, that the nu^ merous mountain torrents swell in an hour's time ; often overflow 6 BUTESHIttE, their banks in approaching the lower grounds; and sometimes sweep before them the best built bridges in the parish. When these violent storms of wind and rain occur, as sometimes hap- pens, in summer or harvest, the crops of corn and potatoes suffer great injury. The prevalence of strong west winds in winter has, in the more exposed places, given all the trees an inclination east- ward, and thinned their branches and foliage on the exposed side. The amount of rain that falls during the year varies very consi- derably in different parts of the parish, the places shut in among the high mountains having of course the amplest share. At the Wbitehouse, in the neighbourhood of Lamlash, the quantity that fell in 1833 was 66 inches, and 6-lOths; in 1834, 57.6; and in 1835, 73.7. Notwithstanding this superabundance of moisture, the climate upon the whole is far .from being unpleasant. Those dull hazes and fogs, which often linger for days and weeks over many other places in this country, are in a great measure unknown in the parish of Kilbride ; and days of constant rain do not often occur, mornings of drenching floods being not unfrequently suc- ceeded by bright and beautiful afternoons of clear and smiling sun- shine. Few places in Scotland are, it is believed, more favoura- ble to health. The diseases which most generally prevail are those arising from poor fare, and exposure to damp and wet wea^ ther. None can be mentioned that is peculiar to the place. Tlie tight-day sickness, spoken of in the former Statistical Account, which a few generations ago was so fatal to infants and children, is now never heard of, having disappeared along with its cause,— unskilful treatment on the part of self-taught midwives. The epide- mics of large towns are occasionally imported by young men and women at service in the low country. But they do not remain long, or spread to any extent. Instances of longevity are numerous. Of five members of the kirk-session of Kilbride who died within the last twelve years, one was ninety-two, three eighty-eight, and one seventy-nine years of age. The writer has in the course of the present week, (April 1840), attended the funerals of two of his parish- ioners, one of whom (a female who lived at Brodick) reached the very advanced age of ninety-nine ; the other was entering upon his eighty-ninth year. There are at present living within a mile of Lamlash, and enjoying the unimpaired use of their mental facul- ties, three men, two of them several years above ninety, and the third, eighty-eight. Mr Paterson, in bis ** Account of the Island of Arran," in the Quarterly Journal of Agriculture, mentions a si- KILBRIDE. 7 milar fact, of which the writer is cognizant, viz. that in the year 1 834, ^^ in a population of less than 400 persons about the village of Lamlash, there were 16 individuals living, the average age of whom was 84^ years, and not one of them was under 80." Hydrography. — This parish is pre-eminently " a land of foun- tains and rivers of waters.^' Wells of the purest water, gushing out from the clefts of the rocks and the sides of the hills, are met with in every part of the parish. Some of those in the north are strongly impregnated with iron and other mineral substances. Every valley has its river, with a numerous host of tributary streams that pour into it from every side their liberal contributions. The rivers of North and South Sannox, of Glenrosa, Glencloy, and Ashdale, are the largest. The last of these, a short way up the glen, has two beautiful cascades, one above a hundred, the other about fifty feet high, which fall with picturesqe effect, through gorges of columnar basalt, over veins of the same substance on which the columns rest When the river is swelled by rains from the hills, people can pass dry between the larger cascade and the rock over which it falls. The parish contains but one lake, insig- nificant in size, which is situated on the Ury Hill, south of Lam- lash. Geology and Mineralogy. — The geological phenomena presented by the Island of Arran, and more especially the parish of Kilbride, are almost without a parallel in Scotland for interest and importance. They exhibit within a small compass, a kind of epitome of the mineral structure of the globe ; shewing in regular progression, the successive formations, from the primitive unstratified granite, to the diluvial gravel and sand reposing in incipient strata on the latest formed rocks. They are, in fact, the speculations which the structure of Arran suggested to Hutton, and received so elo- quent an exposition in the ^^ Illustrations" of his disciple. Professor Playfair, which first raised geology to the rank of a science in Great Britain. Accordingly, there is no part of Scotland, which geologists have more frequently visited, or described with more minute and laborious care. Professor Jameson, in his Minera- logy of Arran, gave the first detailed account of it. He has since been followed by Necker, Headrick, MacCulloch, Sedgwick, Mur- chison, and Messrs Oenhausen and Dechen, two scientific Ger- mans ; all of whom gave the results of their enquiries to the public To gratify in some measure the curiosity of those who may not have seen the elaborate geological statistics of those who have published 1 8 BUTESHIRE. on the subject, it may here be stated in the words of Professor Jame^ son, that Arran (and it may be added, the parish of Kilbride in parti- cular) ^^ affords highly instructive examples of Neptunian and Plu- tonian rocks of the primitive and transition classes, viz. clay-slate, mica slate, grey wacke, as Neptunian deposits ; and granite, as a Plutonian rock. The junctions of the granite, of which there are two formations, with each other, and with the Neptunian slates, are most instructive; and annually attract to Arran, visitors frona all parts of Britain, and even from distant continental countries. Reposing on these rocks is a deposit of the old red sandstone, on which rests the coal formation ; and a great conformable series of strata of red sandstone, by some geologists referred to the so- called new red sandstone. These Neptunian secondary rocks are ' traversed in all directions by Plutonian rocks of the porphyry and trap series, affording an admirable study to the geologist interested in the natural history of ignigenous formations." * The two granite formations appear towering above the rest of the island, in Goatfell and the neighbouring high mountains. This group is invested all round by the slate mountains, which form a sort of elevated terrace projected from their sides ; and the strata of which rest upon the granite at various angles of inclinatioiK The junction of the slate and granite is generally concealed by the soil, the grass and loose stones ; but it is distinctly seen on the north side of Tornidneoin, near Liochranza, and one or two other places. The slate is covered by the sandstone and other secon- dary strata, which at the north side of the island rest upon it at an angle sometimes approaching very close to the perpendicular, but towards the south subside into much lower elevations. Scridan forms a remarkable spot, as being a central point from which these strata dip towards opposite quarters, taking corresponding ranges south to Corrie, and north to the Cock. Of the veins of trap and porphyry which* traverse the secondary strata, specimens may be seen along any part of the coast. Two of the most interesting ap- pear, one on the shore below Corrigills ; and the other on the eastern shore of Lamlash. At the former place are seen two veins, one of trap, the other of porphyry, or porphyritic claystone, ascending through the sandstone, in some places in immediate contact with each other, and elsewhere with portions of the conglomerate of red sandstone interposed. In the sandstone, fragments of trap of the same character as the vein, are here and there imbedded ; while • Vide Professor Jameson's Contributions to Murray's Encyclopedia of Geogra- phy. KILBRIDE. 9 the porphyry winds itself round the fragments which* obstruct its course. On the Lamlash shore, the sandstone strata are inter- sected by an oblique vein of trap ; and that again is traversed by another vertical vein, of which the exterior surface consists of pitch-stone. A vertical vein decomposing into spheroidal forms is also seen in this place, traversing the last mentioned veins, and the secondary strata also. Dr MacCulloch, from whom this description of them is taken, has given neat and accurate diagrams of these two very interesting spots. In the various places where the trap veins appear, they sometimes cross each other, without mixing their substances. The veins themselves are not als^ays uniform in their texture, parts containing nodules of a darker-coloured trap than the general body of the vein* There is often a mutual pe- netration of the trap and sandstone. Useful Materials. — Coal is found a little south of the Cock. It is of the kind called blind or fflance coal, and is considered of ex- cellent quality. About eighty years ago, an attempt was made to work it, but the undertaking, for some reason, was not prosecuted long. A slate quarry, in the same neighbourhood, was at one time wrought to a considerable extent ; but its distance from the har- bour at Lochranza, and the direction of its strata, which is con- trary to the declivity of the mountain in which it is situated, caus- ed the work to be long ago discontinued. Among these strata, ironstone is abundant ; but no attempt has ever been made to turn it to account. The most valuable mineral among them is the lime- stone, which abounds in this parish, both to the north and south, and is not less excellent than abundant. There is a quarry of limestone at Corrie, which has been wrought for a great number of years, supplying the Island of Arran and many places in the main- land. The stone is of a blue or purple colour, and contains nu-> merous shells, principally oysters and clams, which retain their na- tural shape. When analysed, it was found to contain in one place, 9&1 parts of carbonate of lime to 1^ of clay ; and in another place, 97 of carbonate of lime to 3 of clay and iron. The Accraploch limestone, at the head of Benlester, near Lamlash, is not less va- luable. Its proportions are 96 carbonate of lime, 8 iron, and 1 clay. The Arran freestone is of the best quality, and in great abundance. The only quarries of it which are regularly wrought are near Corrie, whence it is exported in Considerable quantities to the Clyde, Ireland, and in other directions. The rock-crystala of Arran have long been celebrated. These are found in the gra- nite mountains, in veins in the granite, or in cavities of the granite 10 BUTESHIRE. itself. Their geaeral figure is regular six-sided prisms, acu- minated by six faces. Their colour varies, some being black, others brown, and a few a beautiful yellow. The yellow are the most valued, but the brown is the most abundant. The variety of emerald, named Beryl, occurs in regular six-sided prisms, asso* ciated with fine crystals of mica, felspar, and rocktcrystal, in cavi- t ies in the granite. Professor Jameson, to whom we owe the dis- covery of this gem in Arran, has, we understand, in his cabinet, crystals nearly an inch in length, of a mountain green colour, still attached to the graphic granite, so frequent in our glens. Beau- tiful crystals of the sub-gem-named Pistacite occur in veins in the slate quarry of Glen ELalimidel. There is an extensive vein of sulphate of barytes at Sannox, which is seen traversing the channels both of North and South Sannox rivers ; and therefore, in all pro- bability, runs along the whole intervening space. This mineral bears, at present, a high price in the market Accordingly, the proprietor, stimulated by the remarks of two well known practical chemists from Glasgow, who visited the Island of Arran- in 1836, has recently opened a regular.barytes quarry at Sannox, and erect- ed in its neighbourhood a large mill, in which the mineral is pul- verized, purified, and thoroughly prepared for the market The quarry is situated within a mile of the sea shore. The Holy Isle, which forms part of this parish, is composed prin-^- ci pally of clinkstone, which rises to the top of the island in ranges of rude columns, placed over each other, and rests below upon a basis of red sandstone^ with a stratum of white sandstone inter- posed between it and the columns. On the south and east side of the island, there are several veins of greenstone and basaltic por- phyry. Of the latter, some are seen to intersect not only the sandstone strata, but also those of columnar clinki^tone which rest on them. SaiL — The cultivated soil in this parish is in general light ; and best adapted to turnip husbandry. In the valleys, which are of considerable extent, it varies greatly in kind and quality. Id many places close to the shore, it is little else than granitic sand washed down from the mountains to the sea, and driven back by the sea upon the land. In other places, it is a fine alluvial loam, or land originally moss and marsh, but, by draining and cultivation, converted into a good black mould. The loam is in most places more or less mixed with gravel, and interspersed with patches of moss. On the rising grounds between the level parts of the val- KILBRIDE. 11 leys and the hills, there are usually from five to ten inches of loam mixed with gravel, resting for the most part upon close red till. The land in such places is therefore cold and spooty ; and would be materially benefited by furrow-drains and the subsoil plough. The extensive tracts of table-land between the promontories con- tain a considerable portion of the same kind of loam that is found in the valleys ; but their predominating soil is a mixed loam of moss and red friable clay. In the narrow belts of land which are situated between the shore and those rocky banks which skirt so much of the coast, the soil presents great varieties. Sometimes it is sand mixed with sea-shells ; sometimes moss resting upon marl. In the south, about Whitingbay, much of it is shingle, or light sandy loam, with red clay marl under it. The parish contains very few farms presenting much uniformity of soil. It sometimes hap- pens that the same field presents one patch of stiff clay, another of soft moss, and another of loam or gravel, or both mixed to- gether, with as many kinds of subsoil resting under them. Zoology, — 1. Quadrupeds. — At one period, when wood was abundant, roes, wild boars, and red-deer were very numerous in the parish. Of these, the two former were long ago extirpated ; and the last are now reduced to a few dozens, which are rarely seen except in the most retired recesses of the mountains in the north of the island. The Duke of Hamilton placed a pair of small American deer, a few years ago, in the pleasure grounds about Brodick Castle. They appear to thrive well, and have already a numerous offspring, which roam at large among the plantations. Hares and rabbits are very plentiful, and there are a few wild goats. Few quadrupeds of prey ever found their way to Arran* It contains some wild cats, btit polecats, badgers, stoats, weasels, and squirrels were never seen in it It contained foxes at one time, but they are now extirpated. The brown rat is very com- mon, and commits great depredations in the dwelling-houses and barn-yards. Of amphibious quadrupeds, seals and otters iire oc- casionally seen along the shores. 2. Fishes. — The rivers of the parish abound In trouts and eels^ but they are generally small in size. With a view to the improve-* ment of the former, minnows were brought a few years ago from Ayrshire, and put in the several rivers and lakes of Arran. The result of the experiment cannot for some time yet be ascertained. When the rivers are swollen in summer, salmon and sea-trout as- cend in considerable numbers, when they are caught both with the 12 BUTESHIRE. rod and the net; the latter^ however, is used at the mouths of the rivers only. The sea along the coast abounds in valuable fish. The kinds most commonly found are whitings and haddocks ; but cod, ling, mackerel, conger-eels, skate, flounders, soles, and tur- bots, with a variety of smaller fishes, are also often caught Lob- sters and crabs, and great varieties of other shell-fish, are to be found along every part of the coast, but are most abundant at the south end of the parish, and in the neighbourhood of Pladda. Oysters are got only at Lochranza. Herrings pay short occasional visits to all parts of the coast, but their favourite haunts are on the west and north sides of the island, in the sound of Kilbrandon, be- tween Arran and Carradale. They generally make their first ap- pearance in July, and remain till the end of November. Those cured in the months of August and September are considered the best. 3. Reptiles, — The reptiles most commonly found in the parish are the nimble lizard, the blind dome, the adder, the warty-eft, the water-eft, the brown eft or ask, the common frog, the edible frog, and the toad. The writer has not seen any of the venomous toads described by Pennant as natives of Arran ; but the people of Lochranza declare that they are often seen in that quarter, and describe them as rough on the back, corpulent in shape, and from six to eight inches in length. 4. Birck. — These are very numerous, and in great variety. Of land birds, the most conspicuous and important are the red and black grouse, both of which are very abundant, and the latter so fond of descending to the low grounds, as seriously to annoy the farmer in spring and harvest. The ptarmigan is occasionally found near the summits of the granite mountains. Pheasants, which were introduced some years ago, are now numerous about Brodick, and are gradually spreading over the whole of the parish. Eagles, falcons, hawks of various species, hooded and carrion crows, ravens, owls, and magpies, were at one time very numerous, and are still to be met with, but the premiums given by the Duke of Hamil- ton for destroying them have nearly effected their extirpation. Other birds, however, especially the smaller ones, have increased in proportion, to the serious loss of the lovers of cherries, straw- berries, and other garden fruits. Among these may be mentioned as very common, the ring-dove, the rockniove, the cuckoo, the swallow, the martin, the sand-martin, the swift, the missel-thrush, the common thrush, the red-wing thrush, the fieldfare, the whin- KILBRIDE. 13 chat, the redbreast, the hedge and house*sparro% the wagtail, (white, gray, and yellow), the yellow-hammer, the common bun- ting, the linnet, the chaffinch, the common wren, and (the most pestilent and numerous of the whole) the moor-blackbird. The rarer land birds are, the kestril, the goatsucker, the ring-thrush, the water-ousel, the wheat-ear, the golden-crested wren, the gold- finch, and the starling. Among the waders^ those which occur most frequently are the curlew, the corncrake, the woodcock, the snipe, the lapwing, the green-plover, the ringed-plover, and the oyster-catcher. The bittern is met with occasionally. A beauti- ful specimen of this bird was shot in a swamp below the White- house a few years ago. Among the water birds which frequent the coast, the following occur : the cormorant, the shag or scart, the solan goose, the mallard or duck, the teal, the wild goose, the razor-bill, the puffin, the northern diver, -the common gull, the silver gull, the guillemot, and the tern. Of these^ the gull and the scart are among the most numerous. 5. Ifisects. — To one conversant with such subjects, the entomo* logy of Arran would furnish materials for a volume. Presenting on its mountain tops the atmosphere and temperature of the Alps ; and in its wooded glens and sheltered valleys, a climate nearly as mild as Devonshire, its insect races are as varied as its physical character. Among these, the most interesting are its beetles, butterflies, and moths. Of the first, two may be men- tioned as particularly deserving of notice, which are found in beauty and abundance ncanr the manse and at Whitingbay, viz. Chn/somela fulffida and Cicindela campestris. The following is a list of butterflies and moths, collected in Arran by Mr Connell, of the High School, Glasgow, during the month of July 1836. It was the most unfavourable July for the purpose in the memory of man, otherwise the list might have been greatly extended. Though it encroaches on the parish of Kilmorie, it is too valuable not to be presented whole. Cynthia cardui. Not coraraon. Specimens taken near Brodick and King's Cove. Hippanhia blandina. An Arran specimen of this insect first announced to ento- mologistS) the fact that it was a native of this country ; not common. Found near Brodick and Dugary. Hipparchia polydama Abundant. pamphilus. hyperanthus. Three specimens taken near Bennan Head. janira. This insect seems not confined to any latitude, soil, or vegeta- tion. semele. Found chiefly on stones, exposed to the sunbeams, and shel- tered from the Tvind. 14 BUTB8HIRB. PolyommatiM alsufl- The sea cliffs opposite KUmorie parish church, abounded for a few days with this, which is the smallest of British butterflies. Polyommatus Alexis. Common everywhere. Vanessa urtica. Confined almost exclusively to the eastern side of the island. Pontia brassicae. Abundant everywhere, except on the west coast, and in the centre. rapae. Chiefly around Brodick. — -^- napi. Chiefly around Brodick. Melitaea Euphrosyne. High grounds between Brodick and Shirkan. Argynnis aglaia. Not uncommon. Lycsna phlieas. Found at Sliddery. Arctia caja. Common. Cerura vinula. Rare. Macroglossa stellatarum. The specimen seen and taken near Bennan Head. Minoa chserophyllata. Found in Kilmorie. Anthrocera iilipendulse. Rare, and found near Bennan Head. The following were obtained about ten o'clock on the ferns and brambles near the sea coast between Bennan and Kilmorie. The locality was visited for a few minutes during five or six evenings, the weather not permitting longer or more frequent visits. Spilosoma menthastri Hypena proboscidalis Mamestra brassicae Hepialus velleda Rumia crotsegata Ophiusa lusoria Leucania pallens Hepialus humtdi Plusia chrysitis Episema cseruleocephala Leucania impure Larentia chenopodiata Harpalyce ocellata ndonia atomaria Cabera exanthemata pusaria Harpalyce fulvata Margaritia verticalis Botys forficalis Anarta myrtilli Pterophorus punctidactylus Nemeophila plantaginis Harpalyce sylvatica Plusia gamma. Actebia porphyrea Xylina putris To the above list may be added Hipparchia ligea^ the rarest of the whole. A specimen of it is said to have been caught by the late Sir Patrick Walker near Brodick. Botany, — The botany of this parish and of the island in gene- ral has little to distinguish it from that^of other Highland districts. 1. Among its rarer plants the following occur : Althfiea officinalis Arbutus Uva Ursi Avena pkniculmis Brassica monensis Carex pauciflore Carlina vulgaris Convolvulus Soldanella Cotyledon umbilicus Crambe maritima CuBCUta europaea 2. Barer mosses, — Andraea nipestris Anictangium ciliatum Bartramia fontana ithyphylla . ponuformis Bryum alpinum .^^ cameum homum ligulatum Elymus arenarius Epipactis ensifolia pallens Habenaria albida Hymenophyllum Wilsoni Hypericum elodes Juncus biglumis Latbynis sylvestris Listen cordata Lithospermum officinale Bryum nutans turbinatum ventricosum Conostomum boreale Dicranum adiantoides ■ bryoides I flavescens — — flexuosum — — ^. glaucum Lithospermum maritimum Malaxis LoeselU Mentha gentilis Oenanthe pimpinelloidea Osmunda regalis Pinguicula Lusitanlca Pulicaiia dysei^terica Sium repens Smymium Olusatrum Typha latifolia. Dicranum pellucidum squamosum taxifolium virens. Didymodon heteromallum Entosthodon Templetoni Gymnostomum sestivum curvirostnim rupestre KILBRIDE. 15 Hedwigia sesdva Hypnum aduncum commutatuin moUuscum scorpioides Silesianum JuDgermannia julacea Tortula unguiculata tomentella Trichostomiim adculare undulata Jungermannia bicuspidata Hutchinsiae Orthotrichum pulchellum Polytricbum nanum — : piliferum undulatum urnigerum Weissia acuta recurvata' languinosum - polyphyllum Jmigermannia HutcIiirnticB is new to Scotland ; and was found in June 1836 in moist caves on the way from Lamlash to Clacb- land Point. It is found mixed with very broad specimens of c/un- germannia epiphylla. 3. Ferns. Aspleniura adiantum-ni- grum nita-murana trichomanes Asplenium viride Blechnum boreale Lycopodium davatum Lycopodium selaginoldes selago Scolopevidrium vulgare. Parmelia pbysodes saxatilis Peltidia canina Ramalina fastigiata fraxinea Ramalina scopulorum Scyphopborus coccifenxs pyxidatus tartarea Squamaria muronim, &c. 4. Lichens. — Alectoriajubata Cetraria glauca Cladonia furcata rangiferina Lecanora tartarea Pannelia caperata All the above lists are very imperfect, and presented merely as specimens. 5. Sea^-weeds or Algce. Asperococcus fistulosus Delesseria alata Ceramium diapbanum aanguinea Cbondrus crispus suiuosa Cbylodadice kalifonnia Desmarestia aculeata Conferva linum EctocarpuB tomentOBiu Fucus ceranoides Plocamium coccineuin Ptilota plumosa, &c. &c. Conchology. — Among the shells found along the coast, the fol- lowing occur. A few land-shells are interspersed : Amphidesma declive — ^-— >— compreasum — ^-— >— pubescens Astarte compressa ■ Scotica Balea perversa Bulla lignaria Cardium aculeatum ■■ bevigatum ■ medium exiguum Carycbium minimum Cingula bibiosa . subumbilicata Clausilia perversa Cycbis comeus Fusus corneus Helix arbustorum bortenais trocbilus — — - nemoralis Ludna flexuosa radula Nasa reticulata Nucula nuclea Patella dypeus Pecten Islandicua Pectunculus pilosus Pbysa fontinalis Paludina tentaculata Scalaria datbrus Terebra reticulata Terebratula aurita Tornatella tomatilis Tellina squalida crassa TrocbuB magus zizipbinus Venenipis viiginea Venus aenea cassina fasciata . rugosa, &c. &c. Pupa Bexdentata Pbuiorbis spirorbis Woods and Plantations, — The parish has at present, upon the whole, a bare appearance ; -but the period is not remote, when a considerable proportion of the lower grounds, and 16 BUTESHIRE. many sheltered spots in the hills, were covered with natural wood. There are still about 150 Scotch acres of such woods, scattered in patches of unequal size, rocky eminences, and the banks of streams, from Sannox to Knockankelly. They consist principally of oak, ash, birch, rowan, hazel, and alder. There are about 553 Scotch acres under regular plantations. Of these about a dozen of acres are planted on the grounds round the Bay of I^mlash ; and all the rest at Brodick ; principally in the neighbourhood of the castle. Mr Fullarton has, within these few years, planted a considerable number of acres on his well-cultivated and picturesque property of Kilmichael. The plantations round the Castle of Brodick are of various ages. The oldest contain many large and stately trees; and all, in whatever stage of growth, have a healthy and vigorous appearance. In these plantations, the prevailing trees are, Scotch, silver, and spruce firs; larch, oak, ash, elm, sycamore, and birch. In more favourable situations, these, are in^r terspersed with poplars, walnuts, chesnuts, and laburnums. By a very excellent arrangement, most of the stack and kail-yards in the parish have rows of forest trees planted round them. The thinnings of the plantations have of late years proved extremely serviceable to the people of Arran, by supplying them with pal- ing for their fences, and wood for their houses and farm imple- ments: The improvident destruction of the natural forests, which was for several generations allowed to go on without check, made wood not long ago so scarce in Arran, that the people had often to cross over to Ayrshire, with no farther errand than the procuring a stick to mend a cart or a plough. Now all such wants are sup- plied promptly at home, at little expense either of time or labour; and by judicious management, there will in future be no lack of wood for any ordinary purposes.* II. — Civil Histohy. Accounts of the Parish. — A very minute account of the parish of Kilbride and of the Island of Arran in general, is given in a work by the Rev. James Headrick, published in the year 1 807. It embraces a- "view of the mineralogy, agriculture, manufactures, and fisheries of Arran, with notices of its antiquities." A shorter but very accurate ac- * The lisU iu liotany aud Conchology, mid many of the facts stated under the head of Zoology, the writer owes to the kindness of bis scientific friend, the Rev. David Landsborough of Stevenston. This gentleman has viewed the Island of Arran with the eye both of a poet and a man of science, His well-known poem «* Arran" con- tains many beautifiil and striking descriptions of Arran scenery, of which the writer would have made very liberal use, had the limits assigned him admitted of it. 3 KILBRIDE. 17 count of the island was iatelydrawn up by John Paterson, Esq. factor to His Grace the Duke of Haoiilton ; and pubHshed in the thirty- first number of the Quarterly Journal of Agriculture. This account^ while embracing all the topics discussed in the larger work of Headrick, is particularly valuable as a record of the numerous improvements recently made or at present in progress in Arran. It is accompanied by a neat and excellent map of the island. Land-owners, — The whole parish, except the farm of Kilmicbael, is the property of His Grace the Duke of Hamilton, who is supe- rior of the whole island. The farm of Kilmichael belongs to John Fullarton, Esq., who resides on his property. The two farms of Corrigills are a recent purchase from the Marquis of Bute. The Duke of Hamilton's rental in this parish is L. 4412; and Mr Pullarton's form is worth about L. 100 of yearly rent. Parochial Registers, — No register for deaths appears to have e?er been kept in the parish. Those for births and marriages commence in the year 1723, and come down to the present day; but till a very recent period they do not appear to have been kept with much regularity. The records of the proceedings of the kirk -session go back to the year 1704 : and at one time they were pretty voluminous. But the volume commencing with the year 1750, and most of its successors, were lost about thirty years ago, by a gentleman to whom they were very improperly lent, to gratify an idle curiosity by their perusal. Historical Events. — In glancing at these, it is impossible to se- parate the history of the parish of Kilbride from that of the Island of Arran in general. In its more remote periods, that history is to a very great exte^nt a blank. From the character of those nu- merous remains which it everywhere presents, its erect columns, its clay urns, its Druidicdl circles, and its sepulchral cairns with stone coffinsj it would appear that the original inhabitants of Ar- ran were the ancient Britons, who, wherever they were establish- ed, left similar traces behind them. And it is now admitted by the best antiquarians, that these were all of them branches of the great Celtic family. During the two first centuries after the in- vasion of Agricola, the Caledonii, and in the third and fourth, the Picts, (who were either cognate Celtic tribes, or perhaps the same people under a different name, mixed a little with the Scandina- vian race,) appear to have occupied the Hebrides and the High- lands in general, and therefore the Island of Arran. In the I^« BUTE. B 18 BUTESHIRE. ginning of the sixth century, another Celtic race,* a colony of Irish Scots, usually called the Dalriads, effected a settlement in the 'western districts of the Highlands, more especially Argyllshire ; and Arran lying so near Kintyre, which was their first settlement, would probably have formed an early part of their conquests. This race, in the course of the three following centuries, gradually ex- tended their power over the greater part of the mainland of Scot- land, to which they gave the name which it still retains. But the dominion of the Hebrides was wrested from them by the Scandina- vians ; who, after many previous piratical expeditions to these isles, began, towards the end of the ninth century, to form in them re- gular settlements. At length Harold Harfager, af^er establishing himself as King of Norway, and subduing Shetland and Orkney, ad- ded to his other conquests the whole of the Hebrides, south to the Isle of Man. Arran must thai^ if not before, have fallen under the Scandinavian yoke. From this period till the final cession of the He- brides to the Kings of Scotland, Arran shared the fate of the rest of these islands, which were ruled by chiefs, dependant sometimes on Norway, but more frequently on kings of the isles, who yielded to Norway more or less allegiance. What changes were effected on the early Celtic population of the isles, by the conquests of the North-men, it is impossible now to ascertain. But as the language of the Celts ultimately prevailed, it is evident that the Celtic blood continued all along to predominate in the great body of the peo- ple, whose language their conquerors gradually adopted. For some generations previous to the incorporation of the Hebrides with the dominions of the Scottish monarchy, Arran appears to have been in possession of one of the branches of the family of Donald, Lord of the Isles, probably the Macruaridhs, who ruled in Bute. Monro, Dean of the Isles, speaks of a monastery in the Holy Isle, opposite to Lamlash, said to have been built by one of the sons of Somerled, and endowed by him with the lands round the bay of Lamlash ; and Somerled himself is said to have built a castle in the same island. It would seem that Arran passed next into the iamily of the High Steward of Scotland* Shortly after the death of Somerled, Walter, the High Steward, got for himself some footing in the neighbouring island of Bute. He improv- ed this advantage, and stregthened his interest in Bute, by the marriage of Alexander, his son and heir, to the grand-daughter of * For an account of the origin of the Scots and Picts somewhat different from this and perhaps a more probable one, see Sir W. B^tbam*s Gaei and Cimbru KILBRIDE. 19 Angus Macsomerled, supposed to have been then Lord of Bute. Angus and his three sons afterwards fell in battle, leaving, it would seem, no male issue behind them. On this, Alexander, the son of the steward, claimed in right of his wife the island of Bute, and, it is supposed, the island of Arran also. The claim was resist-' ed by Ruaridh, son of Reginald, and grandson of Somerled ; but the Scots settled the dispute for a time by expelling Ruaridh, and seizing both Bute and Arran.* Hence it seems a fair inference, that Arran as well as Bute formed part of the inheritance claimed and obtained by the heir of the High Steward. Complaints of these and similar encroachments of the Scots. sent to the court of Nor* way, led to the celebrated expedition of King Haco in 1263. Alexander HI. then King of Scotland, vindicated the aggressions of his subjects, by claiming the whple of the Hebrides as an ancient appendage of the Scottish crown, unjustly wrested from his pre- decessors. In the appeal to the sword which ensued, Haco was at first successful. He recovered all the isles that had been con- quered by the Scots, and re*established Ruaridh in all the pos- sessions from which he had been expelled. He then assembled all his forces in the island of Arran, whence proceeding with his land troops to the opposite coast of Ayrshire, while his fleet ad- vanced along the Frith of Clyde, he for a short time pursued with- out resistance his desolating career, till his decisive defeat at Largs, and the subsequent dispersion of his fleet by a storm, had so thoroughly annihilated his power in the Hebrides, that his suc- cessor was obliged to cede the whole of the Hebrides on easy terms to the Scottish crown. In the arrangements which ensued, neither Apran nor Bute is mentioned among the possessions bestowed on any of the descendants of Somerled. Hence the probability is, that they both continued in the family of the High Steward. During the wars which were occasioned by the attempts of Edward I. of England to annex Scotland to his own dominions, the island of Ar- ran fell into the bands of the English, who, in 1306, held the Castle of Brodick, under Sir John Hastings. Sir James Douglas and some other partisans of Bruce made an attempt tosurprise the garrison, in which some say they were successful, though others, probably upon better grounds, consider that they were foiled, at least till Bruce him- self joined them. This memorable event occurred in the year 1306. After passing a solitary winter as an exile and fugitive in Rachrin, in the north of Ireland, Bruce sallied forth in spring from his hid* * Gregory's History of the Highlands of Scotland. 20 BUTESHIRE. ing-place, to hazard another stake for his crown and kingilom, and landed in Arran with a few but faithful followers, in a small fleet of thirty-three row-boats. History dwells with minute fondness on this part of the monarch's adventurous career ; his landing on the west side of the island ; his waiting with Douglas and those of bis partisans who preceded him, by whom he was recognized by the blowing of his horn ; his occupations during his stay ; and his en- terprising voyage to the mainland, on beholding the fire on Turn- berry Head, which, though not the signal light which he deemed it, proved in the result the dawn of his prosperous fortunes, in esta- blishing the liberties and independence of his country. Several me- morials of the Bruce still remain in the island of Arran. The King^s Cave on the west coast ; Dairy, or the King's plain ; Tardn^ riffhf or the King's mount, and Kififf Cross, whence he embarked for the coast of Carrick, are places said to have all received their names from their connection with Bruce. Some of the names may perhaps be otherwise accounted for. But other and less doubtful traces of Bruce are furnished by grants of land which he made tc several of the natives, for services rendered him while io the island. Mr Fullarton of Kilmichael is the lineal descendant of one of these, Feargus Macloy or Maclewis. He still possesses the char- ter for his lands given to his ancestor, which is signed by Robert II. and dated Arnele, 26th November, in the second year of his reigD. The lands granted to others on the same occasion have passed long ago out of the hands of their descendants, and now form parts of the property of the Duke of Hamilton. • For rea- sons already adverted to, it is probable that the principal proprie- tor in Arran was at this time the High Steward of Scotland. At all events, it unquestionably belonged to him in the next generation, when, by the failure of male heirs to Bruce, the High Steward, under the title of Robert IL, ascended the Scottish throne. Arran by this eveQt became part of the patrimony of the crown ; and its inhabitants, having taken up arms on this occasion in behalf of their master, they were freed from the annual tribute of com which they formerly paid, and granted many other privileges. In conjunction with the men of Bute, they constituted the celebrated Brandani, who afterwards acted as the King's body guard. The island of Arran was at that period mostly covered with wood, and richly stocked with deer, foxes, and other animals of the chase. Hence it became a favourite resort of the Stewart kings in their hunting excursion?. The castle of Lochranza, the walls of which fitill remain sufficiently entire to attest its former magnificence, was KILBRIDE. 21 built by one of the Stewart kings as a hunting -seat. Fordun men- tions it as a royal castle in 1380. In the expedition which the Earl of Ross fitted out in 1455, under his kinsman Donald Bal- loch of Islay, to support the Earl of Douglas against his sovereign, Arran suffered severely under this fierce marauder. He carried off from this island and the Cumrays a great deal of plunder; and, «fter storming the castle of Brodick, levelled it to the ground. In the next reign, when the house of Boyd were the principal fa- vourites at court, Arran became for a short time the property of Sir Thomas Boyd, to whom the King gave his eldest sister the Princess Margaret in marriage, with the island of Arran, then erected into an earldom as her marriage portion. On the disgrace of the Boyds, Sir Thomas Boyd was divorced from his royal spouse, and the King selected as her second husband the Lord Hamilton,' the heir of a family of Norman extraction, for many generations before distinguished in the annals of Scotland ; and which, during the former reign, rose rapidly into influence and im- portance, by their seasonable espousal of the royal cause against the house of Douglas. The titles and estates of Arran, thus transferred to the family of Hamilton, have continued ever since in their pos- session, with the exception of a short period in the reign of James VI., when, through the oppressive proceedings of the Regent Mor- ton, they became forfeited to the crown, and were afterwards for a few years usurped by the court minion. Captain James Stewart. In 1544, when Henry VIII. of England sought to punish the Scots for their refusal to enter into his scheme of uniting the sis- ter kingdoms by the marriage of his son Edward to the Princess Mary of Scotland, one of his warlike measures was sending an ex- pedition against the west coast of Scotland, under the Earl of Lennox. On his arrival there, Lennox's first proceeding was an attack upon the Island of Arran, from which he carried away much plunder, after demolishing the Castle of Brodick* Twenty years later, the Earl of Sussex, then Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, provoked by the frequent incursions of the Scottish islanders into the north of Ireland, and the support which they gave to their countrymen settled there, in their opposition to the authority of the English viceroys, landed with a considerable force in Kintyre, then in possession of the Macdonalds, the principal objects of his resentment When he had sufficiently gratified his cupidity and • revenge by his ravages in that district, he steered his course to Brodick Bay in Arran, where landing, he desolated with fire and, 22 BUTESHIRE. ^word all the neighbouring country. The last time that Arrati saw an enemy on its soil, was during the temporary occupation of Scotland by the usurper Oliver Cromwell. He placed a garri- son of eighty men in Brodick Castle, and strengthened it by raising on its north side a bartisan, which still remains. His troops fell victims to the angry passions of the Highlanders. It would appear that they used some improper liberties with the fe- males of the island, and otherwise conducted themselves with the usual license of conquerors. The Highlanders, fired by such in- sults, watched their opportunity for revenge ; aqd, taking the Eng- lishmen by surprise when out on a foraging excursion, they put them all to the sword. The last of the party that fell was dragged forth from his concealment under a large stone near the road side at Sannox, which still, from its remarkable appearance, attracts the notice of visitors. Antiquities. — This parish abounds in relics of antiquity. Among these the first place is, from its importance, due to the Castle of Brodick. It is believed that there was a fort on the present site of the castle as far back as the occupancy of the island by the Danes. During the stormy periods of Scottish history it was fso often demolished that it is probable that no part of the original structure is now standing. But part of it is unquestionably very old ; more especially a high and nifissy quadrangular building to its north-east side, which bears every mark of the architecture of those times of feudal warfare and disorder, when every castle was a stronghold, and strength and security were more valuable pro- perties of a habitation than comfort and convenience. The castle is still inhabited. Somewhat more than a century ago, the Duchess Ann of Hamilton made an addition to it on the west side, which, with a few alterations'on the older parts of the building, has render- ed it a tolerably commodious habitation. It is occasionally the residence of the Hamilton family, during their visits to Arran at the shooting season. The castle still retains much of its ancient feudal appearance. The large court behind the castle, with the high and thick wall enclosing it, still remains. And the broad and deep moat, which at one time protected it on one side, can easily be traced along the whole line of its compass. Relics of much earlier times than the feudal are presented in many parts of the parish. Some of these are, however, disappearing every year before the attacks of the pickaxe and the plough. Last year a double circle of those erect stones, usually called Druidical, KILBRIDE. 23 which stood on the farm of South Sannox^ was used as building- materials for a dry dike; and, about twenty-four years ago, a very complete circle at the mouth of Glensheraig was remov- ed, in clearing the field in which it stood for the operations of the plough. But there are imperfect remnants of circles still to be seen at the top of Blarmore glen, at the head of Glencloy, and in some other places. Many erect monumental stones or columns still remain in the parish. The largest of these, which is 1 4 feet high, stands on the lower side of the road at Brodick wood ; and at Glenshant, Sannox, Mayish, and Largiemore, others of the same description appear, either singly or in irregular groups. Per- haps a few of them may be remnants of circles. Of the sepulchral cairn, there are one or two specimens not far from the manse, on the farm of Blarmore; but the largest which the writer has examined is one of more than 200 feet in circumference, at the head of Moniemore glen. From its position, on a plain of con- siderable extent, near the mouth of a narrow pass, between the east and west side of the island, it is probable that this was the scene of a battle ; and that the cairn was erected to cover the ashes of those who fell in the engagement. A considerable pari of the stones was carried away two years ago, for building a dike in the neighbourhood ; and as those on the surface were removed, several stone coffins, each composed of six unhewn flags, were found under them. Similar coffins are every year met with, in cutting drains and ditches, in different parts of the parish, some- times connected with cairns and sometimes not There is a large collection of them on a narrow plain near the shore at Largiebeg. In some of them, when opened, there- were found rude urns of un- baked clay, containing ashes. One turned up last year in the neighbourhood of the manse contained human bones. And in another, which a man at South Kiscadale fell in with several years ago, in making a fence round his garden, there was found a piece of gold in the form of a handle of a drawer thus tr^, with some iron or steel, much corroded, at each end. The man con- cealed his prize, till he got it disposed of to a jeweller in Glasgow, who melted it down into rings and brooches. It wad, therefore, never submitted to the eye of any experienced antiquary, to ascer- tain either its age or probable use. From the description given of it, the probability is that it was the guard of a sword handle. There are in different places in the parish, what appears to be ves- tiges of ancient forts. One of these is on Tomanshiain (Gaelic, 24 BUTESHIUE. t the fairy's mound,) in Glencloy, where it is understood that those of Bruce's partisans, who arrived in Arran before himself, took shelter, while the English held Brodick Castle in its neighbourhood. Another is Dunfiunn^ or Fingal's fort, situated on a round emi- nence of considerable elevation, near the point of Clachlands. Headrick conjectures that this was one of those vitri&ed forts so common iii the north Highlands. No traces of vitrification now appear. The site of the wall by which it was surrounded can still be traced. In glancing at these faint vestiges of ancient times, it would be unpardonable to omit the case of St Molios, in the Holy Isle. Molios (or, as the name means in Gaelic, the shaved servant of Jesus), was a disciple of St Columba, who, not considering the dis' cipline of lona sufficiently rigid, retired for greater seclusion from the vices of the world, to this lonely isle, whence he diflfused the light of Christianity among the formerly Pagan inhabitants of Arran. The cave which formed his residence is merely an exca- vation in the red sandstone, hollowed out by the sea, when its level was higher than at present, with its mouth defended by a wall of loose stones. On the roof of the cave there is a Runic inscrip- tion, stating the name and office of the saint, and a little raised above its floor, a shelf of rock, said to have been his bed. In the neighbourhood of the cave, there is a large flat stone, called his dining-table, and a spring of pure water (his bath) much resorted to in the ages of superstition, and celebrated for the healing vir- tues alleged to have been communicated to it by the prayers and blessings of the saijit. Martin speaks of a curious stone bequeathed by this saint, and long famed for its many miraculous properties ; more especially its power in curing diseases, and protecting in battle the lives of its fortunate possessors. This stone was so care- fully transmitted as a valuable heir-loom from one generation to another, that it was lost only within these few years, by being com- mitted to the custody of a gentleman who partook too much of the scepticism of the age to have any faith in its virtues. It re- tained, however, some share of its credit, till its final disappearance. Some, even of the present generation, have had recourse to it for the cure both of man and beast. This esteemed relic was a smooth green globe, probably of jasper, about the size of a goose egg. About a mile north from St Molio's cave, and near the house of the present tenant of the Holy Isle, stood the monastery spoken of by Dean Monro. Even in the time of the dean himself (1594)| 4 KILBRIDE. 25 tbe monastery was id ruins ; but the consecrated ground on which it stood was for many generations after him used as a burying-pkce by the people of Arran. The cause of its abandonment was the loss of a number of people who were accompanying a funeral to this place. The boat which carried them was upset by one of those sud- den and violent squalls of wind with which the bay of Lamlash is in unsettled weather so often visited. The situation of this burying- place was pointed out by a number of rude tombstones which lay in heaps upon the ground ; till two years ago, a modern utilitarian^ who had none of Dr Johnson's reverence for sacred places, cleared the spot, and turned the bones and ashes of the dead to account, by rearing from them a crop of onions and carrots. Besides the religious house in the Holy Isle, there was, previous to the Refor- mation, a small church or chapel at Kilmichael in Glencloy, the foundations of which were raised only a few years ago. There was also a church at South Sannox; dedicated to St Michael. The only vestige of it now remaining is a rude image of its patron saint, which has been preserved, by being built up in the wall of the church-yard, which is still used as a burying-place. Modem Buildings. — There are no modern buildings in the pa- rish that call for particular remark. The few genteel families in the parish, and the more substantial farmers, occupy houses simi- lar to those of the same class in other parts of the country. Dur- ing the last few years, several neat slated cottages have been built in different parts of the parish ; more especially round the bay of Brodick, for the accommodation of summer visitors. The smaller tenants live in houses much superior in appearance and comfort to those which they occupied twenty years ago. But many of them are still very indifferent habitations : the majority of them being built with dry stones, and thatched with straw or heather, made secure against storms with ropes of heather fastened by wood- en pins. III. — Population. The population in 1755 was 1369 1793 2545 1801 2183 1821 2714 1831 2656 1835 2397 From this table it appears that, between 1755 and 1798, the popula- tion of the parish had nearly doubled. The cause was, a very injudi- cious system which then prevailed, of allowing the tenants on every farm to multiply without check, the share of a farm occupied by 26 BUTESHIRE. the father beings as his family grew up and settled in life, often divided among two or three of his sons. The decrease from 1793 to 1801, was principally owing to the number of young men who then went to sea ; several hundreds leaving the piu'ish every year, some for the Royal Navy, others for the bounty, fishing, and others on board merchant ships. Of these very few ever returned to their native parish ; as many of them were either lost at sea, or fell in the service of their country, and those who lived, settled in the different sea-port towns in the low country. From 1801 to 1821 the same cause continued to operate in keeping down the popula- tion ; but the continuation of the old system of subdividing farms, with the greater abundance of the necessaries of life arising from the additional land brought under cultivation, produced in it, upon the whole, a slight increase. Its gradual decline from that period till the present day has arisen from several caqses. Of these, the most important are an extensive emigration to Canada and Chaleur Bay, which took place in 18d0 ; the care taken to prevent any farther splitting down of possessions ; the decline in smuggling, which, at one time, afforded a sort of occupation for a great number of young men ; and increased habits of industry in the rising generation, who, instead of following the old practice of loitering half idle at home, go to trades or service in the low country, or engage as sailors in merchant ships. Language^ Manners^ Morals, — English is well understood, and more or less spoken in all parts of the parish : but among the ru- ral population, Gaelic is decidedly the prevailing language. In the villages, which contain a number of settlers from the mainland, English is rapidly gaining ground, and is spoken by the rising generation with the same fluency as Gaelic From the nearness of Arran to the mainland, and the constant intercourse with it maintained of late years, the people exhibit in their manners a cu- rious mixture of the Highlander and Lowlander. Withibe bland courtesy of the former, and that seemingly artless simplicity which so often hides under it a great share of shrewdness, intelligence, and art, they have learned to blend no inconsiderable share of the bluff and sturdy independence of the latter. The Highland charac- ter, however, decidedly predominates. The practice of illicit distil- lation prevailed very generally not many years ago. But the heavy fines imposed of late on convicted delinquents, and the diminution of the gains of smuggling by the improvement of the spirits ma- nufactured by the licensed distiller, have in a great measure put KILBRIDE. 27 ah end to this demoralizing traffic Still the most upright of the common people are disposed to view it, if at all a breach of the Divine law, as at least a very venial one. The encouragement given by the proprietor to agricultural improvements has given a great impulse to the industry of the people. But in this respect they are still far behind their neighbours on the Ayrshire coast. Nor can they be expected to match them, till, by the enlargement of the size of the farms, and the gradual removal of the surplus population, provision is made for affording them steady and profit table occupation. The want of regular work gives time for much idle talk. Accordingly, the most trifling article of intelligence flies with rail-road speed from one extremity of the parish to the other. The ancient games and amusements of 'Highlanders have disappeared, and have almost ceased to be even matters of tradi- tion. Highland superstitions are also rapidly on the decline ; though the belief in ghosts, witches, and fairies, has still a firm hold of the minds of many ; and the power of the evil eye is a very general article of faith. They have still a number of traditions about Fin* gal, or as they call him Fiunn MacCoul, and his heroes, whom they speak of as a race of gigantic warriors and hunters. These traditions agree better with those which prevail in the north of Ireland, than with the more refined and poetical tales of Macpher- son's Ossian. In some of these St Patrick occupies a prominent place. The people in general are very temperate and chaste* Among the rural population, there is perhaps not one habitual drunkard. It is to be lamented, however, that intemperance is &st gaining ground among the sailors in the parish, and such of the tradesmen as earn high wages. Of the latter, the majority are from the mainland, whence they import the prevailing vices of the lower orders in our large towns along with them. The num- ■ ber of illegitimate births is small ; and perhaps the half of these is occasioned by the intercourse of the parish with the mainland, whence girls, who repair to it for service, occasionally return in a state of pregnancy. No people can be more frugal than the na<* tives of the parish. They live upon the humblest fare; potatoes are with the majority of them the staff of life ; and animal food is a luxury in which they rarely indulge. In dress the more aged of both sexes have departed very little from the unadorned simplicity of their progenitors ; but the young very generally follow the fashions which prevail among their own class in the mainland, the softer sex as elsewhere taking the lead. On Sabbath, the church 28 BUTESHIRE. presents the same array of silks, laces, and bonnets as meets the eye in a low country congregation. With prudent thrift, however, the more considerate of them sometimes carry their fine shoes and stockings in their laps till they approach the church. A very ex- cellent feature in their character is the strength of their domestic affections. The wages of the children are, after a suitable deduc* tion for their wardrobes, almost always at the disposal of their pa- rents, to assist in paying their rents, and supporting them under the privations and infirmities of declining years. Religion. — In point of religious information, the people in gene- ral are on a level with those in the same sphere of life in the low country. There being but one parish church for a population spread along a coast seventeen miles in length, the attendance upon public ordinances is not so regular as could be wished. But the great bulk of the young and rising generation are in this re- spect, upon the whole, very exemplary. Many of the mose aged are kept from church by distance and the infirmities of declining years. But there is a considerable proportion of them, though their number is gradually diminishing, who are absent from choice ; having several marked peculiarities of sentiment and character, which render the style of preaching, generally acceptable among well-educated Christians, unpalatable to ttielr taste. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The parish being mostly oc- cupied by lofty hills and mountains, the arable part of it bears but a small proportion to the extent of its surface ; and is confined to the glens and valleys, and the more level parts of the declivities which skirt the bottoms of the hills. Cultivation is carried in very few places more than 200 feet above the level of the sea. The number of Scotch acres at present under cultivation is 4270^ ; and the number considered capable* of cultivation about 800. The parish is divided into 208 farms of very unequal size ; and of these 161 are under L. 20 of rent ; 30 above L..20, and under L. 40 ; 11 above L. 40, and under L. 100 ; and 6 above L. 100. Rent of Land. — Arable land rents, according to its quality, from 5s. to L. 2 per acre, averaging about L. 1, 5s. The average rate of grazing a cow in summer, and foddering her in winter, is L. 4, 10s. The rent of a cottar's house is L. 2 per annum. Rate of Wages. — Farm-servants are usually hired by the half* year. Exclusive of board, men-servants receive from L. 6 to L. 8^ 10s.; and women from L. 2, 10s. to L..4. Male labourers en- KILBRIDE. ' 29 gaged by the day receive in summer from Is. 6d. to 2s. without victuals ; and females from 8d. to lOd. In winter, labourers gene- rally work by the piece ; and when engaged by the day, generally receive the same allowance as in summer. Reaping in harvent is paid at the rate of 10s. per acre, without victuals. Masons and carpenters when they work by the day charge ds* with victuals, and 3s. 6d. without them. The rates of mason and other me- chanical work, when done by contract, are as follows : Building ruble walls (and carriage) per rood of 36 yards, from L. 5, 8s. to L.5, 10s. ; hewing per foot, including quarrying and price of stones 7d. ; plastering per square yard, including lime and sand, 5^. ; flagging per square yard, 2s. lOd.; diking, per rood of 19 feet, 5s. ; slating with Easdale slates, large size, per rood, L. 3, 15s. ; do. under size, L. 2, 14s. ; roofing per rood, with American pine, including sawing and nails, L. 6, 10s. ; with Scotch fir, L. 4, 7s« ; sawing per 100 feet, 4s. 7d. ; windows per foot, from 2s. 4d* to 2s. 6d. ; bound doors, full mounted, from 14s. to L. 1 ; farm-carts with iron axle-tree, from L. 9 to L. 9, 10s. ; with wooden axle-tree, from L. 7, 10s. to L. 8 ; iron ploughs, L. 5 ; wooden ploughs, L. 1, 14s.; a pair of harrows complete, L. 1, 8s. ; wheelbarrows, from 18s. to L. 1. Breeds of Live-Stock. — The sheep reared on the hills are all of the black-faced kind. A few Cheviots and Merinos are oc- casionally pastured on the lower grounds. The cattle are chiefly of the Highland Argyllshire breed; for the improvement of which, bulls, the property of the landlord, are distributed at convenient distances among the smaller tenantry. The more opulent farmers, besides their Argyllshire stock for rearing, keep cows of the Ayr- * shire breed for a dairy stock ; with which they have succeeded well, their cheese and butter bearing a fair comparison with the produce of the best dairy districts of Ayrshire. In cattle and dairy produce, the small tenants, though rapidly improving, are still far behind ; as they have hitherto attended too little to the proper ro- tation of crops, and the sowing down of their lands for pasture, with clover and rye-grass. Their sheep in the hills are also dimi- nutive in size ; but they take on flesh very readily, and make most excellent mutton, when transported to the more luxuriant pastures of the mainland. Husbandry, — In this department, the parish of Kilbride and the Island of Arran in general, have been improving of late years with rapid strides ; and there is, perhi^s, no place even in the He- ^ ' 30 BUTESHIRK. brides, where improvement was more urgently needed. Till the year 1815, all the lands in the island were let in farms of con- siderable size, which a number of tenants, varying from four or five to ten or a dozen, occdpied in common, and cultivated accord- ing to what is called the runrig system ; none having the same rig for two years in succession, except after the potatoe crop. The arable land was divided into outfield and infield. The outfield, which was that next the hills, got a little manure the year it was broken up from lea ; but none afterwards* The only grain sown in it was oats ; of which crop after crop was raised, till the ground was thoroughly run out. It was then allowed to rest, yielding for several years nothing but weeds ; and as soon as these began to disappear by the return of grass and heather, it was again broken up to undergo the same exhausting process of cropping. In the cultivation of the infield land, the system pursued was equally in- judicious. No regular rotation was followed ; but the general rule was, 1. oats ; 2. oats ; 3. potatoes and pease ; 4. bear with dung ; 5. pease ; 6. oats or mashlam ; 7. two years of pasture choked with weeds, unaided by sown grasses, and therefore deficient both in quality and quantity. The implements of husbandry were of the rudest description ; a harrow often made entirely of wood ; on many farms no carts, but cars or sledges in their stead ; and wood- *en ploughs short in the stilts, clumsy in their whole construction, and drawn by four horses with a man leading them, and one or two following the plough with spades, to level the inequalities which it lef^ in the furrows. In 1815, the whole of this miserable system of rural manage- ment was changed. The large farms, possessed formerly in com- mon, were subdivided into small lots, having each its own tenant. To every farm a small portion of hill (formerly a common also) was attached, and the quantity of stock to be placed on it precisely fixed. A rotation of crops was laid down. The proprietor gave plants for inclosing the arable land with thorn fences ; and allowed timber, lime, and in some cases a year's rent in money, for the erec- tion of proper dwelling-houses and steadings ; while, at once to stimulate and direct the industry of his tenantry, he planted in con- venient situations, here and there, a few large farmers of skill and capital, to whom he gave leases of nineteen years ; substantial slated dwelling-houses and farm- steadings ; and all the other ac- commodations usual in die more improved districts of Scotland. To improve the breed of cattle and sheep, a number of contigu- KILBRIDE. ai ous fkrms, better adapted for grazing than cropping, were convert- ed into sheep-walks, and let to men of capital, skilled in the ma«- nagement of store farms. Other stimulants to improvement have been more recently applied, by liberal allowances for the opening of drains ; and the subdividing of lots with fences ; the esta* blishment of a farmer's club, which gives premiums for ploughing, sheep, black-cattle, and general rural management. Improvements are accordingly going on now with spirit. The better class of farmers have introduced all the improved modes of husbandry which prevail in the more advanced agricultural districts, with horses, ploughs, thrashing-mills, &c. to correspond. And hence their returns in produce are as good as the quality of the soil and nature of the climate will admit of. By the liberal use of bone manure, they are able to lay down their lands in good con- dition for summer pasture, and to feed cattle in winter with turnips and hay for the butcher. With the addition of furrow draining, which has been recently adopted by a few of the tenants, and the introduction of the subsoil plough, their system of rural management would be complete. The smaller tenants have yet much to learn. They put little lime on their lands ; neglect the cleaning and protecting of their thorn fences ; evade the rotation of crops laid down for them when they can, and are not sufficiently alive to the advantages of green crops and sown grasses. Hence their fodder is scarce in winter, and their pasture defective in sum- mer ; and their cattle a stinted breed, unproductive either for the dairy or the butcher. Even in this class, however, there are se- veral very excellent farmers, who for horses and cows, farming im- plements, and produce of all kinds, will not suffer by being com- pared to those who farm on a larger scale. Nothing is wanted to place the agriculture of Arran on the most thriving footing, but to give encouragement to such meritorious farmers, by extending the duration of their leases from the present short term of seven to nineteen years, and enlarging their lots, as the lands around them fall out of lease. Produce, — Of the gross annual produce of the parish, it is diffi- cult to form a very accurate estimate. The following approxima- tion to it has been supplied by a gentleman intimately acquainted with the agricultural state of the parish : Wheat, 30 quarters. Barley and big, 947 do. Oats, '2727 do. Beans and pease, 4d5 do. Potatoes, 4176 bolls, of 12 imperial bushels each. 32 BUTESHIRE. Turnips, 83 Scotch acres - Rye-grass and meadow hay, 6820 imperial stones. Flax, 260 do. Eggs,-350,000. Cheese, 3500 imperial stones. Butter, 4800 do. Herrings, 2660 barrels. Other fish, 2900 imperial stones. Sheep produced annually, 2260. Horses, do. 150. Pigs, do. 680. Milch cows grazed, 1050. Other cattle do. 750. Poultry, 3,800. Straw consumed by cattle, 109,000 imperial stones. Limestone quarried, 3400 tons. Freestone do. 300 do. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Towns and Means of Communication. — There are no market-towns either in the parish or island. The people carry their cattle and produce to market to the different towns on the mainland; principally Saltcoats and Ardrossan; with which there is regular steam communication throughout the year. The Isle of Arran steam-packet plies between Arran and Ardrossan, twice a- week during the winter and spring months, and in summer daily. From the beginning of June till the end of September, the steam- boats of the Castle Company ply regularly between Glasgow and Arran twice a-week. There are two annual fairs in the parish, one at Lamlash in the beginning of winter, and the other at Brodick, the last week of June. The Lamlash fair is thinly attended ; and any little business done at it, is almost exclusively confined to the selling and exchanging of horses. Brodick fair, though established only a few years ago, attracts great crowds both of the inhabitants of Arran, and people from the mainland ; and there is considera- ble business done at it, in horses, cattle, and wool. The post-town is Saltcoats. In connexion with the post-office of that town, there are two subordinate offices in the parish of Kilbride, which com- municate with it daily, Sundays excepted, in summer and autumn, and twice a-week during the rest of the year. Perhaps no island in the Hebrides is better accommodated with roads. From Gortan Alister, a little south of Lamlash, to Brodick, there is a Parliamen- tary road, which was last year regularly macadamized, and is always kept in a state of excellent repair. In 1817, a line of road in continuation of this, made at the expense of the Duke of Hamil- ton, and kept in repair by the statute labour of the district, was carried from its northern termination as (blt as Sannox, and from its southern point round the whole of the southern and most va- KILBRIDE. 33 luable part of the island to the Blackwater river. There are also two excellent roads which communicate with the parish of KilmoriOf one made by the Duke of Hamilton from Lamlash to Benicarra* gan, in the district of Southend, and the other a Parliamentary road from Brodick to the Blackwater in the Chiskan district. To render the inland communication of the parish complete, it would be extremely advantageous to continue onward to Lochranza the road which terminates at Sannox, and to build a few additional bridges ; one over Ashdale Burn, and other two on the rivers of South and North Sannox. There are harbours at Lochranza, Corrie, Bro- dick, and Lamlash. The three latter have quays attached to them^ but not of sufficient extent, being accessible to vessels only at high water. There was at one time an excellent qutay at Lamlash^ fit to admit vessels of every size at all states of the tide. It was built in the time of the Duchess Ann of Hamilton, who planned it on such a scale, that though the wages of masons were then only 8d. and those of labourers 4d. per day, and the materials with which it was built quite at hand, the work cost L.2913. By a pieoe of gross mismanagement, this admirable quay was some thirty or forty years ago allowed to be used as a quarry for erecting the village of Lamlash; — a measure of which the folly is now deeply felt, as the productive, industry of the island is so greatly increased, and steam navigation has created so much intercourse between Arran and the mainland. The island cannot have that accommo- dation which its growing importance demands, till this gross blun- der is repaired by the erection of a proper quay at Brodick or Lamlash. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated at the south end of the village of Lamlash. It was built in the year 1779, and is a plain and unambitious building, without vestry, steeple, or bel- fry, quadrangular in form, with an aisle containing a small gallery opposite the pulpit, projecting from one of its sides. It contains about 560 sittings, which are all free, and, with the ex- ception of the seats of the two proprietors, the minister's family and two or three others, common to all the parishioners. There is no other place of worship connected with the Establishment actually within the bounds of the parish* But there is a chapel at Lochranza, near the northern extremity of the parish, at its point of junction with the parish of Kilmorie, in which, a preacher of the Gospel officiates as assistant to the two ministers of Arran. He has the charge of a district in Kilbride parish, containing a popu- BUTE. c 34 BUTBSHJttG. laiioD of about 200. The proyision for the support of the chapel is 500 merks Scots, mortified for the purpose by the Duchess Aan, with the interest of a sum formed by the accumulation of the aa^* lary, during a vacancy of fifteen years, which occurred about twenty years ago. The district under the sole superintendence of the parish minister is seventeen miles in length ; and contains a populatioQ of nearly 2200 ; belonging, with a few trifling exceptions, to the Esta* blishment. Of these, there are above 200 from nine to ten miles from the parish church ; 600 from four to six ; and 1600» more than two. In these circumstances, it is obvious, that though the pa- rish church is at present in nearly as central a situation for the whole population as could well be fixed upon, a large proportion of these are at such a distance as precludes either regular attendance upon ordinances on their part, or efficient pastoral superintendence on •the part of the minister. Accordingly, both pastor and people are at present making efibrts for getting an additional church and parish for the large and populous district round Brodick Bay. How they may succeed, it is difficult to say, as they are not in circum- stances either to build a church or support a minister without ex- ternal aid. The present church is generally full in good weather; in summer sometimes uncomfortably so. But if the people were all within a convenient distance of the church, a house, of twice the size might be filled. The communicants alone, who exceed 600, would require more accommodation than the present church affords.* The manse is beautifully situated on a sloping eminence about a mile north-east of the church, and command^ a fine view of the bay, and of the opposite coast of Ayrshire. It is a substaa- tial and commodious house, built in 1826. The glebe consists of about 19 Scotch acres, fences, roads, and church-yard included* When the present incumbent entered upon its possession, it was, * The above was written three years aga Since that time an elegant and oora- modious church has been built at Brodick. The expense of the edifice amounted to .about L.850 /of which L.100 was contributed by His Grace the Duke of HamiltOD ; L. 167, \5tB. by the Extension Committee of the General Assembly ; nearly L. 150 by the inhabitants of Brodiek and summer tisitors ; and L.448 by the frietidM of r»- ligion in the cities and large towns of the mainland, in gubacriptions procured by the writer of ttiis article. The church was opened for public warship on the second Sunday of December 1839; and a parochial missionary attaebed to the district of Brodidc now preaches in it rc^larly to a crowded congregation. Without an en- dowment from some quarter, however, it is to be feared that the services of an or- dained clergyman cannot be secured for it. In the meantime, the attendance at tbe parish church is considerably diminished. There is, however, abundance of popula- tion fbr filling both churches ; and it is to be hoped that all the spare room will be occupied as soon as the increased Acilities fbr pastoral superintendeooe, arising from the services of an additional labourer in the vineyard, have had time to tell upon the habits of the parishioners. 3 KILBRIDE. 35 with the exception of a few patches, one uncultivated waste. It has since been drained, limed, and subdivided, at an expense which the writer is ashamed to mention, as the soil is too light to remu* Derate him for his outlay. It would at present let at a rent of L. 20 per annum. The stipend consists of 17 chalders, in equal pro- portions of barley and oatmeal, and payable according to the fiars of the county. The allowance for communion elements is L. 8, 6s. 8d. The whole of the parishioners belong to the Established Church, with the exception of about forty individuals connected with the Congregational Union of Scotland. The last have a chapel at Sannox, containing about 260 sittings. Their minister, having scarcely any congregation of his own, draws his audiences principally from among those members of the Establishment who are unable to attend their parish church. On the evening of every third Sabbath, he preaches at the school-house at Brodick ; and one Sabbath in the three the whole day at Lochranza. He is prin- cipally supported out of the funds of the Congregational Union, and by religious societies, by which he is employed in itinerating through the Highlands for a few months every summer. He has a good house attached to his chapel. Both the house and the chapel were built by subscription about twenty years ago. JScftcca/ton.— There are at present 6 schools in the parish, be- longing exclusively to itself, and a seventh at Lochranza, common to Kilbride and Kilmorie. Tlie maximum salary for parochial schools is distributed in unequal portions among four of these : Lamlash receiving L. 19 ; Brodick, L. 16 ; Currie, L. 4 ; and Lochranza, L. 6, with nearly an equal sum from Kilmorie pa^ rish* The other schools are, an Assembly school at Whiting Bay; and a private school at Lamlash. At all the schools, the fees for teaching are the same as in the parochial schools of rural districts in the low country. The people, however, being generally poor, the amount of school-fees in the best at- tended of them does not exceed L. 14 per annum ; in some, it is as low as L. 6. All the parochial teachers have schoolhouses, without rent, from the Duke of Hamilton ; and the Assembly teacher, the accommodations required by the rules of the Assembly Committee on schools* The salary of the Assembly teacher is L.25. Whiting Bay has been singularly fortunate, in a suc- cession of excellent teachers, appointed by the Conimittee of the Assembly. The branches usually taught in the several sohools 36 BUTESEIIRE. are, English and fiaelic reading, writiag, English grammar, arithmetic, book-keeping, and navigation. Sabbath schools are established in all the districts of the parish. The majority of them are taught by the teachers of the week-day schools; a few of them by these, in conjunction with other pious and well-disposed individuals. These schools are conferring inesti* mable benefits, in rearing up the rising generation in right views of Divine truth, and correct rules of moral conduct. But they would be much more extensively beneficial, both to teachers and taught, did the circumstances of the people admit of their provid- ing their children with those admirable text-books which are now in general use in well-conducted Sunday schools in the low coun- try. In winter and spring, the number of children who attend school in the parish averages about 450. In summer, many of them are employed in herding and field labour ; and therefore the attendance is much less. The advantages of education, however, are very generally appreciated ; and there are few, if any, above the age of six, who are not in the way of being taught to read. Still, it is a general complaint among the teachers, that children, during the time they are with them, are not obliged to give more punctual attendance at school ; and that they are allowed to quit school altogether, and, considering their education as finished, at too early an age for retaining permanently what they have been taught. Libraries. — In the year 1824, a fewpublic-spirited individuals established a small library in the parish ; and to make it easily ac* cessible to all, the amount of the subscription was fixed at Is. per annum. There are, at present, about 80 subscribers, the majority of them young men of the working classes who enliven their long winter evenings by the perusal of its volumes. The subscriptions are collected once a-year at a general meeting, at which the new- books to be added to the collection are proposed and voted for. The collection, from the low amount of the subscriptions, consists as yet of only 300 volumes ; but these are well selected, and sup- ply several excellent works in history, biography, popular science, geography, and practical divinity. Most of the religious books, either originally composed in Gaelic, or translated into Gaelic from the English language, are found in the collection, and have always a great circulation among the more aged of the subscribers. The more wealthy of the parishioners occasionally make donations of books to the library. KiLliRlDK. 37 Poor and Parochial FttwA.*— The average number of paupers, who receive regular parochial aid, is 50 ; among whom is distri- buted annually the sum of L, 60* They receive their respective allowances quarterly, in sums which vary from ds. to 12s. to each, according to their several necessities. The average number of occasional paupers cannot be easily stated ; very few applying to the session for aid, except persons who wish to be placed regularly upon the roll. Taking the average of the last seven years, the amount of the church collections, including dues for mortcloth and marriage proclamations, has been L. 46, lis. 84 d. The kirk-ses-> sion has a small capital arising from bequests, lying at interest in Irvine Bank. Its present amount is L. 100 ; but it is yearly de- creasing, as the quarterly distributions in winter and spring con- siderably exceed the amount of the church collections at those sea- sons of the year. A number of the more destitute of the paupers re- ceive small pensions from His Grace the Duke of Hamilton. The amount of the pensions varies from L. 1 to L. 2 per annum ; and the majority of tliem is bestowed upon old men, and poor widows of good moral character. The sum distributed among them at the last annual term was L. 63^ 1 Is. Paupers have generally speaking lost much of the reluctance to appear on the session-roll which they at one time manifested ; and many of them are cla- morous for additions to their allowances. But none ever make ap- plication except persons really in destitute circumstances, and un- equal to their own support ; and such applilands of the Southend. Plovers and starlings are common. Eagles, kites, hawks of various kinds, owls, and carrion-crows, were so at one time likewise ; biit since the proprietor has given a premium for their destruction, they have nearly been extirpated. The smaller birds, such as spar- rows, bullfinches, &c. have become vastly more numerous since these enemies of their kind have been destroyed. Several species of snakes are found in the woods, glens, and moorlands adjoining the arable ground ; but seldom if ever in the heights of the interior. The largest of them is between three and four feet long. Trout and salmon are. found in all the rivers, trout in all the lakes, and salmon in Loch lorsa. Neither are by any means so abundant as they were forty years ago. l*he decrease is partly ow- ing to the want of protection in close-time, and partly to the use 48 BUTESHIRE. of lime in agriculture. The salmon enters the rivers in July, and returns in October. No fishings are let. Seals and otters are found along the shore. The sea around the whole parish is well stocked with fish of all descriptions* Haddock, whiting, mackerel, seath, and cod abound. Ling and turbot are caught off the Southend ; but the fishermen engaged in taking them are almost all from the Ayr coast. Lobster and crab fishing is carried on by the natives about Kildonan, for the Glasgow market. At the Northend, the herring.fishery is carried on with great spirit, skill, and success by the inhabitants, who in a great measure depend upon it for their subsistence. Conchology. — The following is a list of the rarer shells of the parish, drawn up by the Uev. Mr Landsborough of Stevenston. Patella clypeus Ampbidesma compressum Nucula nucleus Bulla lignaria Lucina flexuosa Tercbratula aurita Cingula labiosa Scalaria clathrus Astarte comprcssa . Scalaria Turtoni Tellina squalida Venus cassina Trochus magus _ crassa Cardium exiguum Fusus corneus Venus fasciata^ _^___ medium Ampbidesma pubescens Vcnerupis virginea Pectunculus pilosus. -^— -— declive II. — Civil History. There are few events of historical interest connected with this parish, except such as are common to the other islands of the He» brides, till the time of King Robert Bruce. After his disastrous defeat at Methven, and his perilous escape at Dairy, he retired with a few of his most influential and intrepid adherents to the small island of Rathrin, on the north coast of Ireland. There, under the protection of the Lord of the Isles, he spent the winter of 1307, sighing, as he viewed the dark and distant hills of his beloved country, '* O Scotland, sball it ere be mine, To wreak tby wrongs in battle line, To raise my victor hands, and see, Thy bills, thy vales— thy people free ! That glance of bliss is all I crave, Betwixt my labours, and the grave.**-^Loril ofihe Itles, On the return of spring, he crossed over to Arran, whither he had been preceded by Lord James Douglas and Sir Robert Boyd, who, on his landing, *' Met him like friends who part in pain, And meet in doubtful hope again." Ibid, Amid the forests and fastnesses of Arran, he could live conceal- ed from his enemies, who lay on the opposite coast of Carrick, while his proximity to its shores enabled him to obtain the ear- liest and most accurate intelligence of their situation and their RILMORIE. 49 Strength ; to fan the eknbers of liberty that still lived in the .bosoms of his countrymen, and be at hand to take advantage of any false moTement on the part of his foes, or any favourable one on that of his friends. During his stay on the island, he made a cav0, on the sequestered shore of Drumidoon, the place of his usual residence. How long he remained here is uncertain, but it was sufficiently long to attach the inhabitants unalienably to his interests. A body of their number fought under his banner at Bannockbum, and for services then rendered, or kindnesses for- merly shewn, after his accession to the throne of his ancestors, he gave many of them grants of land on the island, one of which is held by the lineal descendant to this day. The circumstances of his departure are somewhat differently related. Tradition, which always affects the romantic, narrates, that one morning, while musing in bed over his past misfortune, and his future prospects, he observed a spider vigorously endeavour- ing to raise itself to the roof of the bam in which he lay. Once and again it failed in its attempts, just as many times as he had done in his, to regain the throne of his ancestors. Though often baffled, yet it still persevered, and ultimately succeeded. Ani- mated by this prophetic incident, alone, and disguised as a min- strel, he crossed over to his maternal castle of Tumberry, in Car- rick, then garrisoned by the English under Percy. Should he find matters favourable to his cause, he was to make a signal to his friends whom he left behind, by lighting a fire on an eminence above the castle, on seeing which they were to follow him. In- stead, however, of finding them favourable, he found them quite the reverse. The garrison was strong and vigilant ; his partisans, few, feeble, and dispirited ; and even his own hereditary vassals indifferent, if not hostile. *< Long hMMOed by oppretcor's band, Courage and faith had fled the land, And over Carriok, dark and deep, Had sunk dejection's iron 8leep.-^Lortf qfthe Jtles. The minstrel monarch was therefbre on the eve of returning, when Providence achieved for him what his own prudence would not have permitted him to attempt A fire was raised for some other purpose on the very spot where thd preconcerted signal was to have been lighted. Aware of the consequence, firuce spent the night on the beach, that he might apprise his friends of the mis* take, before their arrival could be discovered by the enemy. They reached the shord before dawn^ but, when told of the circumstance, BUTE. D 50 BUTESHIRE. and though assured that aoy attempt to surprise or carry the castle, or to raise the country, was desperate, and though dissuad- ed, it is said» by their royal leader, and urged to return in silence to their former retreat, they resolutely refused to quit the land of their fathers, till they had either freed it, or fallen in its rescue. <' Answered fierce Edward, * Hap what may, In Carrick, Carrick*8 lord shall stay ; I would nofc minstrel told the tale. Wildfire or meteor made us quail, I will not credit that this land. So famed for warlike heart and band* The nurse of Wallace, and of Bruce, Will long with tyrants hold a truce,' * Prove we our fiite, the brunt will bide,* So Boyd— so Haye— so Lennox cried, So said-^so TOwed the leaders all. Bo Bruce resolved—* And in my hall, Since the bold Southern make their home, ** The hour of judgment soon shall come. When with a rough, and rugged host, Clifford may reckon to his cost' "—/MA The manner of Bruce's departure, as related by the accurate Lord Hailes, in his Annals of Scotland, is circumstantially the same with that handed down by tradition, with the single exception of the task of exploring the country, being committed to a confiden- tial messenger, instead of being undertaken by the King in per- son. The sequel of the story, which forms one of the brightest pages in the annals of Scotland, belongs not to this part of the work* At a subsequent, but more recent period, Arran supplied an asylum to another, who like Bruce, was outlawed for his rebel- lious adherence to the Royal cause of Scotland. After the dis- comfiture of the rising of 1745, the Honourable Charles Boyd, son of the unfortunate Lord Kilmarnock, who expiated the part he took in it, on the Tower Hill of London, fled to this parish, where he lay concealed in the farm of AucheliflSn, till he found an opportunity of escaping to France. While liying in this gloomy and sequestered glen, he happened to fall on a chest of medical boo^ and amused himself by the study of that science, which he afterwards turned to benevolent account. After a residence of twenty years inFrance, he returned to his native country, and fixed his residence at Aberdeen. This is the person whom Bosweli mentions as paving received himself and Dr Johnson, when oD their tour to the Hebrides, at Slanes Castle, in absence of his bro- ther the Earl of Enrol With the exception of the grants mentioned above, as made by King Robert, the property, of the island since the time of Alex- 4 KILMORIE. 51 ander III., who wrested it from the Danes, by the defeat of Haco, continued in the crown till the reign of James IIL The greater part of it seems to have been kept as a hunting domain for the Kings of Scotland, whose residence was the Castle of Lochranza* In 1334, Arran is mentioned by Boethius as the property of Ro« bert, the great Steward of Scotland, afterwards Robert IL When ravaged by Donald, Earl of Rothes, and the Lord of the Isles, in 1456, it was the possession of James IL — James IIL on the mar- riage of the Princess Margaret to Sir Thomas, son of Lord Boyd, erected Arran into an earldom, and gave it as a dowry to his sister. After her discreditable divorce from Sir Thomas, she was married a second time to Sir James Hamilton, and the same por- tion given her as on her first marriage. Arran thus became, in 1474, the property of the family of Hamilton, in which it has con* tinued till the present day. The unentailed part of it, extending from lorsa to Lochranza, was bequeathed by the late Duke Dou* glas to his only daughter, the Honourable Mrs Westenra, to whom it now belongs. The only other proprietor in the parish is John Fullerton, Esq. of Kilmichael, who holds the property of White- farlan, by the grant of King Robert Eminent Characters. — The Rev. William Shaw, author of the first Gaelic Grammar and Dictionary that were published, was born at Clachaig in this parish. In this arduous and patriotic undertaking, he was honoured with the patronage and advice of the then Earl of Eglinton, and the celebrated Dr Samuel John- son. As it claims to be the birth-place of the first Celtic scholar, so also it claims to be the death-place of the first Celtic bard» Ossian is said to have died here. Antiquities and Natural Curiosities, — There are a few Danish forts, Druidical circles, obelisks of unhewn stone, and tumuli of considerable magnitude, scattered through the parish. By far the largest and most important of these fortifications is the Doon, on the farm of Drumidoon. The sea-cliffs in front form a defence 300 feet perpendicular. On the land side, the as* cent is steep, and round the summit, ou the edge of this inclined plane, there is a wall, extending from the cliffs on the one side, to the cliffs on the other side, enclosing a level area of several acres, containing what appears to be the ruins of rude habitations. The wall, which was dry built, is now fallen, and a great quantity of the stone carried away for drains, dikes, 8cc ; but still the ruins are very extensive, and the gateway distinctly discernible* 52 BUTESHIRE. There is another, but much smaller one, called Tor-ar-chabteily on the farm of Sliddery. Though generally regarded as a Danish fort, its size, situation, appearance, and name, seem rather to in- dicate that it was a castle or circular building, roofed in either for refuge or defence. Druidical circles are found on many of the moors, and the moss which generally surrounds them proves the places to have been at one time covered with wood. The most per- fect and interesting of these is that on " Sliabh«nan-carachan," on the farm of Tormore. It is called '^ Siudhe choir Fhionn," or Fingal's cauldron seat. All structures or monuments of magnitude are invariably ascribed by the Highlanders to the gigantic race of Fingal, whose stature and strength, if estimated by their works, completely cast the sons of Anak into the shade. On this circu- lar row of stones, the cauldron of Fingal is said to have been sup- ported, and if its depth bore any proportion to its diameter, it might have served for a boiler .to the largest steamer that has yet crossed the Atlantic. In one of the stones that form the circle, there is a perforation, evidently artificial, and well worn on the edges, to which Fingal tied his favourite dog Bran. Immediately adjoining this circle, stand three upright columns of rough unhewn stones, about 15 feet in height and II in cir- cumference. A fourth has long since fallen, or been broken down by the surface, and attempted to be made into mill- stones; but they seem to have been spoiled in the making, for they still re- main on the spot. As one-third, at least, of their entire length must be under ground, that cannot be less than 20 feet* They consist of primitive red sandstone, and millstone grit — a species of I'ock that is not to be found in situ near the spot. They must, therefore, have been carried from a considerable distance, up a long but gentle ascent, to their present position. The conveyance of such immense blocks, from such a distance, and by such'a way, would require more skill in mechanics than is possessed by the pre- sent inhabitants of the parish. Tradition, therefore, ascribes their erection to Fingal, and his followers, though by some it is consi- dered as more probably due to the Scandinavians, who long pos- sessed the islands of the Hebrides, and whose native country is thicklv set with such massive monuments. In the moss around the eminence on which these obelisks stand, large trunks of oak trees are found imbedded, which show that the place was formerly a forest, and which has been held as proof that this* was a fane of Druidical devotion. We know that the Druids performed their KILMORIK, 53 religious worship in groves, and that columns and circles similar to those that here exist mark the place of its celebration. Stone- hegne, and all similar remains of antiquity, will ever be attributed to the Druids, — jet they are found in countries such as Scandi- navia and Scotland, where we have no evidence to show that they ever existed. We have no information of them, except what is fur- nished us by the Roman writers, who state, that their principal seats were in Gaul and Britain, and that they worshipped exclu- sively in groves. The monuments of antiquity called Druidical were clearly erected for public purposes, whether legislative, judicial, festal, sepulchral, or sacred, and consequently vary much in form and dimensions. A copious account of those found in Sweden ha<^ been published by M. Seoberg, the most distinguish- ed antiquary of that country, but unfortunately in his own native language. One of these described by him is remarkable, as the stones of which it is composed are arranged in the shape of a ship, some of the rows representing the position of the masts, others the yards, &c evidently indicating the burial place of a distinguish- ed naval oiBcer. The probability of these remains in Scotland being of Scandinavian origin, is heightened by the fact of their being chiefly found on the coasts and islands that were most fre- quented by the Norsemen. Similar obelisks are finind in different other parts of the parish^ but they are evidently monumental, such are those at Maregrioch, Auchincar, &c. &c. In the former place, there are two columns about 80 feet distant. Between them ^tliere is a parallel row of smaller stones^ forming a parallelogram about 4 feet wide. .At a little distance, a smaller area is enclosed in a similar manner. The larger is said to be the grave of one of Fingal's heroes ; the smaller that of his dog. Both were opened some time since, but found to contain nothing but dust and stones. Instead of the side stones forming the parallelogram being replaced in their former situation, as interesting monuments of antiquity, all that could be removed were carried away for building. There are also many cairns or tumuli in the parish. The largest in Scotland is said to be that at Blackwater Foot. It is now much diminished in size, owing to the gf^at quantity of stones that has been carried away from it for dikes, drains, houses, &c. but when entire, it was said to measure across upwards of 200 feet. To the north of it, and not far from Sliabb nan carachan, is another, said to mark the spot where Fingal held his court of 54 BUTESHIRE. justice. The stone on which the culprit stood is still pointed out, 4ind called the PaneFs stone. In the neighbourhood is the farm where he celebrated his feast of shells. His daughter's grave is shown on the farm of Drumidoon. It is an immense unhewn trough or flag- stone, resting horizontally; upon vertical ston^ at each end, deeply fixed on the ground. On being opened, there was only found in it an urn containing ashes. The urn was broken in the opening, and the fragments carried off by those engaged in the operation* The place was evidently one of sepulture, for around it are a number of vertical stones, which, by their arrangement, clearly in- dicate their object About the middle of Glen-in-tshuidhe, and by the side of the old road, a cairn, now moss-covered, called suidhe Challum Chille, marks the^pot where St Columba sat down to refresh himself with his disciple, when travelling through the island, evangelizing its heathen inhabitants* Another cairn, called Aran, or Ar Fhinn, on the shore of Catacol, marked the spot where Fingal defeated the Norsemen under Manus, son of the King of Sweden, whence some say the island took its name. The present road has been cut through it, and its materials used for its formation, so that now not a vestige remains to mark its »te. Rdiffiaus Houses, — The ruins of the Convent of St Bride, ce- lebrated by Sir Walter Scott, in his Lord of the Isles, as the lone« ly residence of the Lady Isabella, were but recently to be seen at XiOchranza. The very foundation has lately been razed and re- moved, and not a stone now marks the cloisters, where dwelt the Maid of Lorn. The ruins of an oratory or cell belonging to a monk called John, and containing the remains of the saint, stand on the farm of Balnacula. Near it, and in the middle of the burying ground at Clachan, is the grave of St Molios, ** the bare- headed servant of Jesus." His first residence was in the Isle of Lamlasb, or the Isle of Molios ; but he afterwards removed to Shisken, and fixed bis residence where now repose his remains. He died here at the advanced age of 120. On the stone which covers his grave, and which is said to have been brought from lona, the figure of the saint, arrayed in the robes of a mitred abbot, with chalice and crosier in his hands, is not inelegantly sculptured. Tilt within the last fifty years, it was customary for females after their confinement, to repair to the grave of the saint, and there deposit upon the stone a silver piece, as a thank-offering for their reco- very. .The ruins of another chapel are to be seen on the farm of finnicarragan. This ' seems to have been in former times the KILMORIE. 65 place of worship for the district^ and around it that for interment) till the removal of the former t^ Kilmorie. Infants are still bu- ried in it, and the wall that enclosed it may still be traced by its ruins, but the only monument of them which lie beneath, is a stone, beautifully carved. A well, once celebrated for its miraculous sa* natory virtues, stands at a short distance from the chapel. Castles. — Lochranza Castle, qow roofless, and fast falling in ruins, stands upon a small green peninsula, near the entrance of the loch. The date of its erection is uncertain, but it is enume- rated in 1380 among the royal castles, as a hunting-seat of the Scottish sovereigns. It was afterwards inhabited by the Montgo- meries of Skilmorlie, the ancestors of the family of Eglinton, who possessed a considerable part of the north end of the parish, but lost it in wadset to the family of Hamilton. Kildonan Castle is a square tower, standing on the edge of a precipitous sea-cliif, op* posite to Pladda. It scarcely deserves the name of a castle, and seems rather to have formed one of a line of watch-towers, extend- ing from the entrance of the Clyde to the Rock of Dumbarton. It was originally the residence of a femily of the name "of Macdonald, to whom the adjoining lands belonged. From these, it passed to the Stewarts of Kilquhully, in Bute, who sold it, with the rest of their properties, to the Marquis of Bute, from whom it was lately purchased by the Duke of Hamilton. Natural Curiosities. — The natural curiosities are numerous, but those most deserving of notice are the caves and cascades. Of the former there are many, but the largest and most romantic are the Monster's Cave, at Strueyrock, which is 110 feet long, 40 feet broad, and 80 high ; the Preaching Cave at Kilpatrick, and King's Cave at Dnmiidoon, the retreat and residence of King Ro« bert Bruce. It is 114 feet long, 44 broad,' and 47^ high. On the side-wall, and near the entrance, were inscribed the letters, M. D. R. These are now almost, if not altogether, deleted by the action of the weather, and the scribbling of visitants. But at its southern extremity may still be seen, rudely cut, a hunting scene, said to have been done by the fugitive monarch, as figurative of his own condition, when he made this lonely cavern the place of his abode. Several other representations are said to have covered its walls, executed by the same hand ; but they have all been either entirely erazed, or rendered untraceable by those of more re- cent writers. It has lately been cleared of its accumulated filth and rubbish, and a wall built around its entrance, to prevent the still remaining memorials of persecuted royalty from being injuredi 56 BUTESHIRE. or effaced by the wantonness of strangers* There are a number of other caves beside it, some of them of equal magnitude, though of less interest One of them is called the King's Kitchen ; ano- ther his cellar ; a third his stable, &c. The cascades we have noticed elsewhere. Land-owners. — The only heritors in the parish are, His Grace the Duke of Hamilton ; the Hon. Mr Westenra; and John Ful- lerton, Esq. of Kilmichael, whose rentals are ; — The Duke of Hamilton, . L.6000 Hon. Mr Westenra, . . . £00 J. Futlerton, Esq. . 110 Total rental of the parish, L. 0610 Parochial Registers, — There are separate registers for session, baptisms, and marriages, kept at Kilmorie, Shisken, and Loch- ranza. Those of Kilmorie are the earliest, the fullest, and the most accurate. The others are kept for the convenience of the inhabitants, at places, where, from the great extent of the parish, and the distance of the parish church, places of worship hate been erected, and the ordinances are administered, either by the clergy- man or his assistant. Those of Kilmorie commence in May 1701, and are regularly, fully, and beautifully kept till May 1729. From this date till 1762, they are lost, with the exception of the scroll minutes of a few meetings of session in 1786-7, on loose leaves stitched together, but almost illegible. From 1762 till the pre^ sent date, they are regularly and carefully, though not very taste- fully kept. The two first volumes, which are by far the most in- . teresting, are quite loose in the binding ; the edges much worn in, and a good deal of the writing gone. The words that are lost could still be supplied from the context, but, unless they are speedily transcribed, from the decaying state of the paper, they will soon be entirely destroyed. A grain-mill at Shedog, a distillery at Lag, and a lint and wooU mill at Burican, are the only public works in the parish. III. — Population. We have no accessible means of ascertaining the state of the population prior to 1791, thougli doubtless the rent-rolls would furnish data for a pretty accurate approximation, as far back as they extend. In 1791, it amounted to 2830 1801, 2996 1811, . 2420 1821, 9827 I8dl, 3771 Of which number 1816 were males, and 1955 females. KILMORIE. 57 The decrease of popiilatioD in the last ten years was owing ta the introduction of a new system of agriculture, by which the ham- let or runrig system of cultivation, which universally prevailed through the parish prior to 1815, was entirely abolished on the property of the Duke of Hamilton. Separate lots of land were then given to each tenant ; and many farms which were formerly leased by eight or fifteen families, with as many cottars, were given to one individual. In one instance, as many as four hamlets, each containing a number of families, were depopulated, and converted into a sheep«walk. Some of the ejected inhabitants emigrated to North America, but by far the greater part of them removed to the towns of Ayrshire. The population is entirely rural There is not one village in the parish. The annual number of births during the seven years, from 1825 to 1831 inclusive, is 97 ; and the annual average number of mar- riages during the same period, is 19. There is no reg'ister of deaths kept The number of persons under 15 years of age, 736 betwixt 15 and 30, . 462 30 and 50, 349 50 and 70, 204 upwards of 70, 74 Bachelors and widowers upwards of 50 years of age, 80 Unmarried women upwards of 45 years, 70 Insane, 2; fatuous, 6 ; blind, 2; deaf and dumb, 1. Character of the People, — In their persons, the people are ge- nerally tall ; at least they are above the middle size, athletic and very well made. Their features are open and regular, and their limbs remarkably well-formed. The women are decidedly taller, handsomer, and better-looking than in most parts of the country* These remarks apply generally to the whole parish, but they more particularly hold with regard to the south end of it In their man* ners they are courteous and affable, having little of the awkward embarrassment which the Highland peasantry generally manifest in addressing strangers and superiors. In mind, they are distin^ guished for their sound sense, intelligence, acuteness, and liveli- ness. In business, they are active, enterprising, and judicious* Like all islanders, they are generally inclined to a seafaring life, and their proximity to the ports of Greenock and Ardrossan^ af-- ford them ample opportunity to indulge their maritime propensi- ties. Being generally steady, honest, and good seamen, such of them as have a nautical education^ are soon promoted to the com- 58 BUTESHIRE. mand of vessels, and many of them latterly become themselves owners. In few parishes is there a greater respect paid to religion, or a more regular and devoted observance of its ordinances. A com- petent and correct knowledge of the peculiar and fundamental doctrines of the gospel is very generally possessed, and among them are to be found not a few spiritually^minded, lively, and in- telligent Christians, adorning the gospel they profess, by a vealk and conversation conformed to its precepts. After the revival which took place in the parish under the ministry of the late Rev. Neil Macbride, in 1812, there was scarcely a family in which the worship of God was not maintained morning and evening, but, we regret to say, that now it is by no means so common. Many of the games, profane customs, and superstitions ^ pecu- liar to the Highlands, formerly prevailed in the parish, but these, together with the vices of drinking, swearing, &c in a great mea- sure perished in the revival. We regret to say, that, among the rising generation, who give little promise of walking in the foot- steps of their fathers, the latter seem to be again reviving. Both * The following extract from tbe session-records of Kilmorie will illustrate one of the superstitious customs of the Highlands. It was by no means peculiar to this island: *' Session at Clachan, September 4, 1709.-^anet Hunter being formally summon- ed, and called, compeared, and being questioned anent the report that was given forth on her, that she used a charm for the discovery of theft, by turning the riddle, she plainly confiessed that she did use it ; and being farther interrogate what words she used, she replied that she used no words ; and being asked if she did not say, * by Peter, by Paul, it was such a person,' she replied that she did use these words, and none else ; and being fiirther interrogate, if the riddle did turn at the naming of any of those persons suspected, she replied that it did actually turn at the naming of one; and being interrogate farther, who employed her, she replied it was Barbara M* Marchie, in the same town, who employed her ; and she being farther interrogate, if she* had any other body with her at the said ezorcite, she replied that there was one Florence M' Donald, servitriz to Hector M* A lister here, who was holding the side of the shears with her. It being ^ther interrogate, if she thought th<;re was any fault or sin in it, she replied that she thought there was none in it, seeing she used no bad words ; and she being &rther interrogate if she knew who it was that turned the riddle, she answered that she did not know ; but declared that it was not she, nor the other who held it with her, so fiur as she knew ; and it being told her that if neither of them two turned it, that it behoved to be either God or the devil that turned it; to which she replied that she did not think it was God, and she hoped it was not the devil ; wherefore the minister laboured to convince her of the horrid sin of this hellish art, and the heinousnessof it, and how she had gone to the devil to get knowledge of secret things, and how she might be guilty of blaming iunocent per- sons, and exhorting her to lay her sin to heart and repent, she was removed. And the session taking her confession into consideration, with the hatcfulness of the wicked practice, and after mature deliberation, having the advice of the Presbytery, on the like affiiir, they do unanimously appoint her to make her compearance before the congregation three several Sabbaths, to give evidence of her repentance, and for the terror of others that use such acts, they refer her to the civil magistrate, to be punished as shall be thought fit by him, either corporally or pecuuially ; and she being called in again this was intimate unto her.** KILMORIE. 59 swearing and intemperance are become much more prevalent than they were twenty years ago. In dwellings, dress, and diet, the people have of late years be- come very much assimilated to the peasantry of the low . country adjoining. The only striking difference is in the head-dress of the married females, many of whom still continue to wear the high cap, or mutch, instead of bonnets. They, in general, enjoy as many of the comforts, and feel as few of the privations of life, as others in the same station in more central parts of the kingdom. Absolute destitution is a thing unknown among the very poorest, and the great majority of those who are above pauperism, enjoy a competency of the necessaries of life. Poaching is rare. Illicit distillation prevailed till a very recent period, to a very considerable extent, but within the last ten years, very decided measures were taken for its suppression, and it is now almost entirely done away. Its demoralising effects were not de- veloped here so prominently, as in other places, from the circum- stance of its not being considered a disreputable pursuit, and there being few, if any, in the parish, who, at some period of their lives, were not engaged in some department of smuggling. To the smuggler no stigma was attached on account of his employment ; on the contrary, it was considered rather an honourable occupa- tion, as exhibiting an intrepidity and art that acquired for their possessor a distinction in the minds of his companions. It was in the darkest night, and in the most tempestuous weather, when no cruiser would stand the gale, that, in his little skiff, the smuggler transported his cargo to the opposite shores of Ayrshire. Language. — The language universally spoken is the Gaelic A few families from the Lowlands have of late years settled in the parish, and this, together with the increased facilities of communi- cation with the low country, has diffused a more general knowledge of the English than there was thirty years ago. There are few, if any, under thirty years of age, of either tsex, who do not under- stand it, but still the Gaelic continues the language of common conversation. The English is certainly gaining ground ; but we do not think that it has displaced the Gaelic to any considerable extent, though there is little doubt but in the course of time it will have this effect. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The parish contains about 6650 Scots acres of arable land, and about 68,350 waste and in pasture. How much 60 . DUTESUIRg^. • of the latter might be profitably brought under cultivation, has not been exactly ascertained, but it is evident that it can only be a very small fractional jpart. Nearly the whole of this tract was, till within the last twenty-five years, in a state of undivided common, to which all persons, be they cottar or farmer, might send as many sheep and yeld cattle as they chose. Hence it sometimes hap- pened, that the cottar had more Stock on the hill than the farmer who paid ten times his rent, and always, that both had ujion it nearly as many times more than it could feed in summer, or they could fodder in winter. In these circumstances, no attention could be paid to rearing, and the consequence necessarily was, that both sheep and cattle were diminutive and ill-shaped. Of late, the hill, as well as the arable ground, has been divided and appropriated, and the effect upon the stock has been most- beneficial. Within the period above-mentioned, there has been the most marked improvement upon the dwellings, offices, mode and im- plements of husbandry, together with skill in the art, and beauty in the workmanship. Formerly the dwellings and offices formed an irregular cluster, or hamlet, built generally of dry stones, pointed with mortar. The dwelling-house consisted of two apartments, the uppermost being the best, and the lower the kitchen. Both formed one end of a range, of which the byre formed the other, and a door in the middle was common to the inmates of both. Between them, however, there was a partition of wicker-work, plastered with mortar, and white- washed. The thatch was either of heather, or of fern, or of both, in alternate layers, very coarsely put on, and secured by heather ropes, laid across and athwart, kept tight by stones sus- pended to their ends, at the eaves. There were no vents. The fire was upon a stone in the centre of the apartment, and the smoke was allowed to make the best of its way by the door, the window, and an aperture for the purpose in the ridge of the roof. The offices, which were either attached, or contiguous to this prin- .cipal range, were of the same materials and construction ; and it is obvious that neither could be very durable or comfortable. All the lands were undivided, and unenclosed. Each &rm was leased by a number of individuals, sometimes by as many as ten and fifteen, who were jointly and severally liable for the rent. Each farm was thus a societas arandiy or township, containing as many families, having each an equal interest in its cultivation, each field being subdivided into as many stripes, separated by a narrow ridge, s KILM0R1R. 61 called a ^' bone," where the stones, weeds, and other rubbish ga-« thered off the land were accumulated. These stripes generally changed possessors every second or third year, according to ar« rangement of parties. The milch, cows grazed in common upon the pasture lands, which lay between the arable and the hill com- mon ; but when the crops were secured at the end of autumn, sheep, cattle, horses, and swine, ranged at large over the whole farm* It is obvious that this associated form of occupany preclu- ded all draining, enclosing, laying down in grass, &c. ; in short, presented an insuperable barrier to all improvements either of stock or of land. These large farms have in most instances been divided into a number of smaller ones, which have been let to one person, on leases varying from seven to nineteen years. An op- portunity and impetus have thus been given to individual industry and enterprise, which has not been lost. On each of these lots, comfortable dwellings and commodious offices have been built. A great quantity of waste land has been reclaimed, partly by the spade, and partly by the plough ; the whole, in most cases, thoroughly drained, and subdivided into fields of suitable size by quickset ditches. The arable land, under the former system, was divided into in- field and outfield. The latter was exclusively devoted to white crop, which was taken off in succession, as long as it would return more than the seed, and then suffered to lie lea for six or seven years, when it again underwent the same exhausting process. The infield rotation was, 1. potatoes; 2. oats or bear, with manure; 3. mashlam, or oats, or beans and peas mixed ; 4. bear with. ma- nure; 5. peas; 6. oats; 7. bear, with manure; then potatoes as before. This rotation waa by no means uniform, but varied with the quality of the soil, and the quantity of the manure they had to use. The bear was generally sown in beds, and the seed, instead of being harrowed in, was covered over with earth from a trench. The present rotation is, 1. oats ; 2. green-crop ; 3. bear, or oats ; a few sow barley or wheat ; 4. rye-grass ; 5. two or three years in pasture. The Duke of Hamilton, to whose property alone the improve- ments apply, affords the greatest facilities, and holds out the ut- most encouragements to improvement, by sharing the expenses, directing the operations, and rewarding their proper execution. The implements of husbandry were formerly of their own making, and of the simplest and rudest description. The plough was all of 62 BUTESHIRE. wood, except the coulter, sole and share, and most coarsely and clumsily constructed. No stone, however much in the way, or however near the surface, was ever disturbed. To break the plough was therefore a thing of annual, or perhaps weekly occur- rence, — a thing that they regularly calculated upon, for which they made prudent provision, and which caused them little delay in their spring operations. An assortment of beams, stilts, &c. was always on hand, and what was broken in the forenoon was either repaired or replaced by the evening. The harrow con- sisted of three bills, generally having iron, but sometimes only wooden teeth, and so very light, that the harrowing was fre- quently a more tedious operation than the ploughing. The plough was drawn by four or six horses driven by one man, while two others followed with spades to level down the inequalities of the furrow and delve up what the plough did not turn. There were no carts in the parish till about forty years ago, nor indeed were there roads to use them on. In their stead, they employed cars or sledges, formed of two parallel trams, about four feet asunder, joined at the further end by cross bars. The horse was yoked in it as in a cart, but the trams, instead of being supported on wheels, slid on the ground. On these creels were fixed, in which they put whatever they had to carry. The harness was of a piece with the carriage. A thick withe of strong straw or rushes, twisted hard together, served for a col- lar ; two bent pieces of stick fastened at the ends with a leather thong, or birch twig, for haimes ; a hair or rush rope for halter, and all the other parts in keeping. The implements and harness are now the workmanship of regu- lar tradesmen, the latter generally imported from the low country. Iron ploughs are common, carts universal, and forming operations carried on with the same ease and order, as in the more advanced agricultural districts of Scotland. The introduction of these im- provements is partly owing to the younger members of families going to service in these districts, and thus learning the system there pursued, which on their return they continue at home. Rent^ 4-c. — The average rent of the arable land is L.1 per acre ; the average grazing of a cow or full grown ox, L. 2, and of an ewe, 4s. 6d. per annum. Labourers wages. Is. 6d. per day | masons, 3s. 6(£; Wrights, 2s. 6d.; tailors. Is. 6d. with victuals ; weavers receive 6d. per yard for linen, 5d. for ham, 4d. for plaiding ; shoe- RILMORIE. 63 makers charge Is. 3d. with victuals for making a pair of shoes ; servants receive the same wages that they do in Ayrshire* Fisheries. — The herring-fishery is carried on at the north end to a considerable exteYit, and the white fishing on the south, but on a very limited scale, owing partly to the want of enterprise ia those who pursue it, and partly to the difficulty of getting the fish carried fresh to market. There are no fisheries rented in the pa« rish. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Grain of all kinds, wheat, oats, meal, barley, &c. . L. 3420 Potatoes, .... 3000 Butter and cheese, .... 750 Black cattle, . . . • • 2150 Sheep and wool> .... 1875 Swine, • • • * • 400 Fowls and eggs, .... • 460 Herring and white fish, caught by 60 boats, L. 35 each, 2100 Shell-fish, lobsters, &c. • . . . 100 There are about 90 boats belonging to the parish. Of these^ the largest is about twelve tons burthen, the average four and a* half. Those engaged in the herring-fishing employ three men, the others two. An agricultural society was instituted on the island, about eight years ago, which, by its premiums for ploughing, rearing, and crop- ping, has contributed, more than anything else, in forwarding the improvements in stock and farming operations. It has excited among the farmers a spirit of emulation, which has urged them to make improvements that even self interest would not have im- pelled them to. V. — Parochial Economy. There is neither market-town nor market in the parish. All the disposable produce must therefore be exported to the oppo- site towns of Ayr, Campbelton, and Ardrossan, — the nighest of which is twelve, and the most distant eighteen miles, of an open and boisterous sea* There are no harbours ; at least none which a vessel can enter, except at high water, and the largest of them will not, even then, admit vessels of more than fifteen tons. There is a packet-boat from Southend to Ayr, and another from Black- water to Campbelton, which have each of them a small salary, levied from the tenantry in proportion to, and along with their rent. At the former place two converging whin dikes form a natural basin, in which the packet lies, and at the latter, a small harbour was constructed by the parliamentary commissioners. But neither 64 BUTESHIRE. of them can accommodate more than half a dozen vessels, nor ad- mit them, except at full tide. Should they approach the coast at any other time they must stand off till it flows, and, however tem- pestuous be the weather, they have no nigher place of shelter to run to than the one they left. It is therefore with consider • able danger and damage that the communication with these ports is carried on» Commodious harbours, that could at all times of the tide admit vessels of thirty tons, are very much required at both these places, and might be constructed at no very great ex- pense. Roads. — An excellent parliamentary road extends from Black- water Foot to Brodick. Two other roads, almost equally good, ex- tend, one from Blackwater Foot, along the shore, to Largybeg, the other from Benecarigan across the island, to Lamlash. This last was made by the inhabitants, at the expense of the Duke of Ha- milton, generally by those of them who had fallen behind in their rents, during the transition state of agriculture, and who by this means paid up their arrears. The former of them was made, and both are upheld, by the statute labour and three additional days, which » by their leases, the tenantry are bound to work at roads, mill- dams, and water-courses. The labour is directed by an overseer, who calls out the different districts in rotation, superintends the work, and sees that it be properly executed. Bridges have been erected over all the rivers and streams on his Grace's property, with the exception of Blackwater, Machey, and lorsa,' which lie on its confines, and contiguous to that of Mrs Westenra. Ou this the roads are very indifferent, and there are no bridges. There is no post-ofiice in the parish. The nighest are those of Brodick and Lamlash, both subordinate to Saltcoats^ from which the mail is conveyed to both twice a -week in winter, and daily in summer, by a steam-packet belonging to the island. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church was rebuilt on its ori- ginal site at Kilmorie in 1785. It is a long, low, narrow build- ing, with Gothic windows and a gallery in both ends. The latter erected in 1824. An aisle or outshot, with gallery, was added in 1810. It accommodates 832, and all the sittings are free, and most of them unappropriated. ltd situation is far from central. It is six miles from the southern, and twenty-four from the north* era extremity of the parish. The country around it is pretty densely inhabited, but there are other parts, about eight miles dis« tant, that are equally so. There, also, there is a church where Divine KILMORIE. 65 M^orship is performed BJr the parish minisler every third Sabbath. It was rebuilt on its original site at Clachan in 1805, at the expense of the parishioners and others, among whom it is divided, and by whom it is upheld according to their respective subscriptions. It is seated for about 640. There is another church at Lochranza, built -in 1795, and seated in 1835 to accommodate about 300 ; chiefly at the expense of the people. A licentiate of the church regularly offi* cintes in it, and acts as catechist or assistant to both the mhiisters of Arran, taking charge of the northern extremities of both parishes, from lorsa in the one, to Corrie in the other. He is paid by a mor- tification made for that purpose by the Duchess Anne of Hamilton about the year 1700, amounting to L. 27 per annum. Small as that sum now seems, and inadequate as it now is, to procure more than the mere necessaries of life, it was, at the time it was given, fully equal to the stipends of the beneficed clergy of the island. The farm of Coillemore, on which the incumbent resided, was at a later period attached to it, at a nominal rental ; but during a re- cent lengthened vacancy, it was let to another tenant, and has not since been restored, nor any equivalent given in its room. All that now, therefore, the incumbent has to subsist on, is the original sum of L. 27, with the interest of accumulated vacant stipend, amounting to L 13, 1 Is., which, being at the disposal of the kirk-session of Kilmorie and Kilbride, is generally, though not always, given to the officiating minister at this station. Unfortunately, the deed of. mortification expressly prohibits the ordination of the assistant, and, being engrossed in that of entail, cannot be altered. This want of ordination is felt to be a very great grievance by the inha* bitants, who must travel a distance, many of them of twenty-four miles, before they can obtain sealing ordinances. The Lord's supperhas been but twice dispensed in the district, — first in 1814, during the incumbency of the Rev. Neil M^Bride, and in 1839, by the Rev. A. Macmillan. The manse of Kilmorie is the original one, built shortly after the Revolution, and is said to be the oldest now inhabited in Scot- land. It was at first roofed with thatch, but, being burnt in 1710, it was repaired and roofed with slate. With that exception, it has received little repair, and no addition, since its erection. It is in very indifferent condition, but, though condemned upwards of forty years since, no application has ever been made for a new one. The glebe is about 11 acres and 3 roods, incluftive of church-yard and garden, and is worth about L. 14 per annum. The stipend is 15 66 BUTESHIRE. chalders, half meal, half barley, and averitges L. 210. The far- mers of the south end district, L e. from Lai^gybeg to Corriecravie, give each of them annually a cart of peats to the clergyman. The patronage of Kilmorie belongs to the Duke of Hamilton^ and that of Lochranza to his Grace, and the two ministers of Arran conjointly. That of Kilmorie, originally was in the Abbey of Kilwinning, and in 1600 the parish was united to the Presby- tery of Irvine. The names of the clergymen who have successively been its ministers, are the Rev. Dugald Bannatyne, who was trans- lated to Irvine ; Charles Bannatyne, his son ; James Stewart, tran- slated to it from Kilbride ; John Hamilton ; Mr Smith ; Neil Macbride ; Dugald Crawford ; Angus Macmillan. ' In so extensive a parish, the attendance upon public worship must necessarily be much affected by the weather. When that is fevourable, the church is sometimes insufficient to contain the congregation that assembles ; and when this is the case, which is now much seldomer than it used to be, the minister preaches in a tent. During the ministry of Mr Macbride, seldom or never was it conducted in the church, and even in winter, when it was, crowds stood outside the doors, that could not be accommodated within* A spirit of indifference prevails among the rising generation, that painfully contrasts with that which animated their fathers, in re« gard to the means of grace. Still the attendance, though far firom what it once was, is as good as in most parishes of the same popu* lation. The average number of communicants for the seven years preceding 18d'1, was 1050. The number of individuals belonging to Established Church, 3978; other religious denominations, 17. There are no religious associations in the parish, nor are collec- tions regularly made for any, except the Assembly's schemes. The average amount for each of them is L. 6. Education, — There are 12 schools in the parish, viz. four pa- rochial, two on the Assembly's scheme, and in the remaining six, the teachers are either salaried by the inhabitants of the district, or paid by the fees of the scholars. The branches generally taught, are, Gaelic and English reading, writing, and arithmetic. In the parochial and Assembly's schools, in addition to these elementary branches, English grammar, book-keeping, navigation, geogra- phy, and mathematics are taught The salaries of the parochial teachers are respectively, Kilmorie, L. 17, 10s*; Shisken, L. 15; Imachar, L. 5, 16s. ; Lochranza, L.10, 10s. All, with the excep- tion of Imachar, have also a dwelling-house, garden, and glebe* KILMOIUK. f)? The fees in all the schools are, for reading, 2s. per quarter; read- ing and writing, 2s. 6d. ; these wi^ arithmetic, ds. ; navigation and book-keeping, L. 1 per course. There are none between the age of six and fifteen but who either can, or are learning to read ; and the greater number of those of fifteen can also write. From fifteen to fifty there are none but can read, and the most of them can also write. There are a considerable num- ber of individuals above fifty who cannot write, but few, if any, who cannot read. There is a universal desire among the people to have their children taught, at least the elementary branches of education. The number of private schools in the parish is clear evidence of this fact. The endowed schools are more numerously attended ; the teachers better qualified, and the children better taught. Of these at least three additional are required ; one at Machry water foot ; (the one at Imachar more fully endowed) ; one at Auchemore, and one at Benan. The establishment of the General Assembly's schools in 1828, formed a new and interesting era in the history of education in this parish* The introduction by them of a more rational, effi- cient, and expeditious system of education, speedily supplanted in the others that formerly pursued ; while the energy displayed by their teachers, and the spirit infused by them into the children ; the interest and pleasure they made them take in what they be- fore felt to be an irksome task, and the rapid progress they con- sequently made, gave a stimulus, while it set a pattern to those others, which has completely changed their character and appear- ance. This, together with the religious instruction communicated, in a manner that makes what they repeat intelligible to the pupils, will, it is hoped, exercise asalutary influence on the rising generation. The teachers of the Assembly's schools merit the highest com- mendation, for the assiduity, ability, and zeal exhibited by them in their profession, and sustained unabated for upwards of eight years, during which they have been established. The school taught by Mr M^Kelvie at Little Mill, deserves special notice, and is de- cidedly the best in the parish ; indeed, it is seldom that its equal will be found any where. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid for the last ten years, is 75 ; and the ave- rage sum allowed each, is 16s. Some get as low as 6s. and 8s. ; and some as high as L. 2. The average annual amount of church collections during the same period, is L. 46. This sum, with the proclamation dues, which annually average L. 6 ; and the interest €8 BUTESHIRE. of L. 50, bequeathed by the late Major Macalister of SpriDkbank, is the only provision for the support of the poor. Application for parochial aid is decidedly considered degrading, and none but such as are paupers in the strictest sense of the term apply for it. So long as the fiinds for the support of the poor are furnished by the congregation, the provision is regarded as a public charity, and relief from this source is therefore the last resort of the indigent, but were it levied by assessment, it would no longer be viewed in this light The love of idleness would speedily overcome the pride of independence, and there would then be as much avidity manifested to seize upon it, as there is now aversion to accept of it. Fairs. — There are three fairs held in the parish, all for the sale of horses, viz. one at Lag, and two at Shedog. Inns and Ak-kouses, — There are three inns, viz. Lag, Shedog. and Lochranza ; and three ale-houses. Here, as elsewhere, their influence is pernicious, which is still the more grievous as their ex* istence is unnecessary. More individuals addicted to spirits are to be found in their vicinity, than anywhere else in the parish, though we cannot say that in the whole of it there is one drunk* ard. Fuel — The fuel universally used is peat, which is found in great abundance on the hills throughout all parts of the island. A few of the larger farmers who are close upon the shore, and at a dis- tance from the peat*moss, supply themselves partly with coals from the opposite coast of Ayrshire. May 1840. ISLAND AND PARISH OF CUMBRAY. PRESBYTERY OF GREENOCK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JAMES DRUMMOND, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Big Cumbray is an island in the Frith of Clyde^ four miles east from the Island of Bute ; two miles west front the parish of Largs ; and nearly one mile north from the Little Cumbray. The name is said to come from a Gaelic word, which signifies a bold or steep coast rising abruptly from the sea ; and this agrees perfectly with the natural appearance of the island, which presents steep and precipitous banks all round the coast. There is, indeed, a flat level space round the whole island, extending from the bottom of those banks to the water's edge, but the whole of this space has been, at one time or other, completely covered with 4he sea. This is evident from the fields of sand atid beds of marl which it contains ; and if so, its appearance then would exactly agree with what its name signifies. Its figure is very irregular. It extends about ^\ miles in length from north-east to south-west, about 2 miles in breadth, and from 10 to 11 miles in circumference, and contains upwards of 5120 square acres. The shore, which is, as already stated, flat and level for some con- siderable distance from the sea, is, in some places, sandy, as in Kames Bay, on the south-east of the island, and immediately ad- joining the east end of the village of Millport ; and in Fintry Bay on the west and north-west, extending along the beach for nearly a mile of pure sand ; in some places, also, it is clayey and gravelly, but in most places it is rocky. Topographical Appearances. — There is a range of hills called the Shoughends, which run from south to north, extending nearly the whole length of the island in that direction. All the other hills, which may be considered as so many subordinate connec- tions of this range, rise, with gradual ascent, from the extremities of the island to its centre, where the height above the level of the sea is nearly 500 feet. From all these, the views are delight- 70 BUTESHIRE. fui, es|)€cially from the centre, which is the highest, where the view extends all round the island, comprehending the whole sur- rounding scenery, — the parishes of Largs and Kilbride on the east ; the whole coast of Ayr, Ailsa rock, and the island of Ar- ran, together with Little Cumbray, and the two ancient castles of Cumbray and of Portincross, on the south ; the peninsula of Can* tyre, and the Island of Bute on the west ; and, on the north, the whole sweep of the Clyde^ with its vast navigation, and all its va- ried scenery on both its banks. Climate, — From its insular situation, the temperature of the atmosphere is more equable than on^ the mainland, for it is neither so hot in the summer, nor so cold in the winter. The winds which most generally prevail are from the south and west, both of which frequently bring rain; those from the north and^east bring cold. The adjacent hills, both in Bute and in the mainland, being higher than those in Cumbray, more naturally attract the clouds; hence, in Cumbray, there is less moisture than in either of those places, and consequently, a more genial atmosphere ; and there being neither noarshy ground, stagnant water, public works, nor, indeed, any thing to contaminate the air, it is exceedingly pure and salubrious. Snow very seldom lies for any great length of time, and for the same reason^, frost is seldom, if ever, very severe. The climate is, therefore, most agreeable, and hence, the ixkhab»- tants are> in general, healthy and strong ; less frequently visited by fevers, consumptions, or contagious diseases than their neighs hours, and eveo when they are so visited, the consequences are less fatal. In common, indeed, with all mankind, the people have th?ir complaints, but no particular disease oan be mentioned as more prevalent th%n another. Hydrography, — The parish everywhere abounds with excellent spring water, generally rather hard, but, from the very limited ex-^ tent of the island, no rivers of any magnitude are to be found. It is, however, rather a curious circumstance, that at the top of the very highest part of the island, there is a hollow place where there are two small lochs or lakes, communicating with each other, whence there issues a small rivulet, which, in its descent toward the sea, being augmented by other smaller streams and springs, at last becomes sufficiently large to form a mill-dam of considerable di- mensions, by the help of which the people are enabled to grind their own corn. Geology and Mineralogy. — The varieties of rock found in CUMBRAY. 71 the island are very considerable. The brown, or rotten whin, as it is called, and which may be said to form the base of most of the hills, is full of seams, and very hard, and when broken down, makes good stuff for roads. The hard blue whin has fewer seams, but is more durable, and is frequently used in building. These are frequently intersected with veins of quartz, and of va- rious other substances. The freestone, which is in great plenty, is of various kinds : the common white or sandstone is of the best quality for building, and a reddish brown sandstone, of fine grain, hard and durable, makes excellent pavements ; of the latter, there is a softer kind, which, though it becomes harder when ex- posed to the air, is less durable, and is, therefore^ not so much used. The beds of freestone along the coast are frequently found thickly studded with small pieces of quartz, like pebbles, forming fine specimens of what is called plumb-puddingstone. These beds, or strata of rocks, commonly run from north- west to south-east ; their depth or thickness varies from nine to twelve feet, and their inclination from three to seven inches per foot They are often intersected with veins of whin, which run in all direc- tions, and which frequently rise considerably above the surface, assuming the appearance of dikes. The most remarkable of these are two on the east side of the island, running nearly parallel, and from five to six hundred yards distant from each other. Their di- rection is from north-west, where they spring from the hill, to the south east, where they disappear in the sea. The one to the north- east measures upwards of 40 feet in height, nearly 100 in length, and in mean thickness from 10 to 12 feet. The one to the south- west is upwards of 200 feet in length, from 12 to 15 in thick- ness, and from 70 to 80 feet in height where it joins the hill, but droops considerably towards the sea ; and, when viewed in a cer- tain direction, exhibits the distant resemblance of a lion couching, — hence it is sometimes called the Lion. These dikes are compos- ed of blue \^bin, with joints and seams like basalt, but not in columns, and must have been originally produced by some dread- ful concussion in nature. The same dikes appear again in the op- posite side of the channel, in the parishes of Kilbride and of Stevenston, and run through the whole of Ayrshire and of Gallo- way, elevating and generally improving the strata of coal and of freestone on the west side. There is also plenty of limestone found in the island, which might be wrought to great advantage, were it 72 BUTESniRK. not for the expense of coal, which must all be brought at great ex* pense, either from Glasgow, Ardrossan, or Ayr. SoiL — The soil is varied. On the higher parts of the island, it is light, gravelly, and thin, tending to moss, bedded on rock, and covered with heath ; but in some of the valleys it consists of rich black loam of considerable depth, bedded on clay of various de- scriptions, and producing good crops. All along the coast, however, it is light and sandy, bottomed generally on rock or clay. On the south end of the island, it abounds with marl, and, excepting in very dry seasons, produces crops of the most excellent quality. Zoology. — From the insular situation, and limited extent of the parish, there are no species of wild animals found here, excepting rabbits, of which there are great abundance ; hares once existed io the island, but are now completely extirpated; and the domesticani* mals are only such as are common to all the surrounding parishes. The shores and bays all round the island abound with fish of va- rious kinds, the chief of which are, haddock, cod, whitings, lyth, mackerel, salmon-trout, and herrings. These last, however, have, of late years, greatly diminished, so much so, indeed, that herrings fishing, as such, has been almost totally abandoned. Shell-fish are plenty, and are of some advantage to the inhalHtants. They include all the varieties found on the neighbouring shores, and others also which are not so common, such as : Clausilia perrersa Capulus Hungaricus Fuaus Bamfflus Bulla cylindracea Fecten niveus Sigaretus haliotoideus. Cingula calathisca .........*» Islandicus Modiola discors gtriatuia ^..—.^ nebulus Lima fragilia ,..,.>,.^.,« dispar Trochus crassus Cyprina Islandica Tellina punicea Cingula labiosji Venus fascia ta Psammobia costulata Hiatella arctica Anomia undulata> &e. &c. Acteon deniiculatus Fusus nebula ^.,^ trldentatUB ..^..^ linearis Oysters are also occasionally found in small quantities, but are Hu tie valued by the people. The species of sponge, Halichondria infiindtbuliformisj is also found here. Of zoophytes, there are great variety, such as, Anthea Tuedis Cornularia rugosa Hippothca catenularia Antennularia antennina Scrtularia pumila Lucernaria fascicularis Campanularta geniculata ,m,.. filicula Tubularia patina Ij^pralia cocci nca »»>— »»»».«»».>.w».. operculata «»«*»»>..■»»»■>»»> serpens „.^,„ ciliata Farcimia salicornia Crisia eburnea Cellularia reptans Flustra membranacea cornuta 1 _ /»iKaia ,^.,.>,-.., pilosa . luXBtA • Botany. — All the plants which are found in the neighbouring parishes are found here in great abundance, and many others which are of less frequent occurrence, such as-^ CUMBRAY. 73 Manum DulcamarA Antbemis oobiUs Anagallis teneHa Hyoscyamus niger Trifolium fragiferum Pinguicula lusitanfca Conium maculatum Lithoftpermum maritimum Veronica anagallis, &c. &c. Heaths also of various kinds, such as common white heathy fine- leaved white heath, cross-leaved white heath, &c. &c. with great varieties of medicinal herbs, too tedious to mention. Till lately, there were but few trees in the parish ; in- deed, with the single exception of some eight or ten acres planted about fifty years ago on Lord Glasgow's property, there was nothing in the shape of plantation in the whole island ; but since 1822 (he Earl of Glasgow has planted upwards of 120 acres, all in the form of beltings. The places so planted have been very well chosen, the trees are thriving well, and tend at once both to shelter the fields and to beautify the island. These plantings consist of com- mon Scotch fir, Weymouth pine, common larch, black and white spruce, common and mountain-ash tree, common birch, common chesnut tree, oriental plane-tree, English elm, common Scotch oak, common lime tree, common and Huntingdon willow, Bed-* ford and Canadian poplar tree, Cytisus, laburnum, &c. &c. Be- sides these, there are also a few others round some of the farm« houses, but none of any great note, excepting one at Ballykellet, a very large ash tree, and evidently of very long standing ; it is sup« posed to contain upwards of 65 feet solid, and measures 10 feet in circumference* II. — Civil History. . From the want of particular documents respecting the parish, its history is very much involved in obscurity. There is, indeed, a parish register, which is regularly kept, but it extends little farther back than 100 years, the date of its first entry being in October 1730* From this circumstance very little is known of its ancient history, only that it seems at one time to have been in the posses- sion of the Norwegians, and, consequently, to have been very of- ten the subject of contest between them and the Scots. This con- test, however, seems to have ended with the battle of the Largs, when these Norwegians were completely routed and driven from the coast. Tradition points out a place here, on the brow of a hill, where some of these invaders lay encamped, but no traces of the camp itself are now to be seen. Mention is also made of a cathedral which once stood here, and which is said to have been dedicated to Saint Columba, but of this nothing is known by the inhabitants, and certainly no remains are to be seen. That such an establish- ment, however, did really exist, is highly probable, both from tlie 74 BUTESHIRE. known principles of the Roman Catholics, which led them to leaye no inhabited place without a religious establishment, and alsofrooa the certain existence of tradition concerning it; and the tradition receives additional confirmation from the following circumstance, which lately occurred. In the year 1823^ some labourers, in removing the surface of the ground, for the purpose of opening up a quarry, found a large stone of rather a singular appearance ; it was upwards of 8 feet in length, by 2^ in breadth, and 1^. in thickness. Its form was somewhat similar to a coffin, but not so deep ; with a ridge cros- )sing the whole breadth of the bottom ; inside rising nearly half as high as the ledges, and dividing the whole length into two un- equal parts, the one 3, and the other 5 feet, and having no cover. At the broadest,' or head»end of this stone, there stood erect a stone cross, which seemed originally to have been of very fine workmanship. This cross stood close to the former stone, its or* namental side facing it, its foot sunk about 2 feet into the earth, and its head rising above the stone about 1 ^ feet. The hill from whence these stones were dug, and in which they had been buried to the depth of 5 or 6 feet, was only an accumulation of sand drifted from the sea, heaped up upon what had once been the sur£sice of the ground, and upon which these stones had been for^ merly laid. All this accumulation of sand has been since remov- ed. The larger stone was immediately broken into pieces of more convenient size for the purposes of building ; the cross also was broken into two pieces, from the same economical purposes, but the head-piece was afterwards recovered, and is at present, (1840,) in the possession of the minister of the parish. ' Liand'Oumers.'^The whole island now belongs to the Earl of Glas- gow and to the Marquis of Bute. Lord Glasgow, who is also patron of the parish, possesses two-thirds, and Lord Bute one-third of the parish. It was formerly divided into a number of small baronies, the names of some of which are still remembered, such as the Karnes, which gives name to one of the finest bays in the island^ close to what is now called the New Town : on this property, the small village of Kames once stood, some ruins of which may still be traced ; the family name was Hunter. The Hill, on which property the whole of the new town now stands ; the family name was also Hunter, some of whose descendants are still in the island. Craigengour, the family name of which was also Hunter. The Covans, and the Troughewan, on which property part of the village CUMBUAY. 75 of Millport now stands; the family name was Stewart. Pen- machrie, on the lands of which the village of the Sheriff's Auld Haw once stood ; the family name here also was Stewart. Ballykellet, which seems to have been the most considerable of the whole ; the family name was Montgomerie ; the last male snrvivor was Sir Robert With the exception of the Kames, the Hill, and Craigengour, all of which were but small properties, this family seems to have possessed all that part of the island which now belongs to Lord Glasgow, together with the patronage of the parish. Part of this ancient mansion-bouse was still standing in 1837, was then in tolerably good repair, and was, at that time, occupied by a farmer ; but since then it has been removed, m orde^o make way for some improvements on the farm. The fa- mily arms, cut out in one entire stone, with the family motto. Garde Men at the head, and the names of both the proprietors, Sir Ro- bert Montgomerie, and Dame Margaret Douglas at the ■ foot, still served to ornament the front of the old parish church till . 1837, when the church was rebuilt, and when, of course, that an- cient stone was removed, and it now occupies a corner in^the manse garden. The last of this family of whom anything is known was Dame Margaret Montgomerie, daughter of the above Sir Robert, who was killed on the green at Largs by the horse on which she rode, which first threw her, and then struck her with his foot, which instantly caused her death. Near to this site, there is a large stone set up on end, upwards of 6 feet in height, besides what is sunk in the earth, which stone most probably marks the last retreat of some ancient hero. On the lands of this ba- rony, there has been lately erected a mill for grinding corn. There is no other building in the parish that deserves to be par^ ticularly mentioned. ni. — Population. Within the last sixty or seventy years, the population of this pa- rish has increased fourfold. In 1750, the population was • 200 1768, • 260 1793. . 509 1821, • 696 1824, . 784 1831. according to Government census, 912— males 428, females 484 1835» the population was 1026~males 486. females 540 1839, .... 1075— males 509, females 5(}6. Of these, 932 reside in the village of Millport, and the rest, 143, reside in the country. The average of births for the last seven years is 31 ; of deaths, 11 ; of marriages, 6. 76 BUTESHIRE. Tho numb«r of indiriduals und^^r 15 years, is • 983 between 15 and do, . 292 SO and 50, . 222 50 and 70, . 124 70 and 80, . 42 80 and 90, . 10 aboTe90, . . 2 Number of families cliiefly employed in agriculture in 1831) - 24 in trade, manufactures, or handicrafit, 1 14 All these are divided into 226 families, containing, at an average* three children in each; together with 16 men above 50, who are either bachelors or widowers and 54 women above 45, who are either widows or unmarried. During the summer months the po- pulation is greatly increased, there being sometimes 400 strangers present at one time in the parish, for the purpose of sea-bathing. Neither of the Noble heritors are resident in the parish, nor are there any individuals of independent fortune in the island. Lord Glasgow, indeed, occasionally resides for a few weeks in a house formerly called the Garrison, built on Lord Bute's property, by the late James Crawfurd, Esq. Captain of the Royal George Revenue Cutter, the lease of which his Lordship bought, and which house has since obtained the name of the Priory. This, however, is but a very temporary residence. There are 15 houses in the country, and 144 in the village, all of which are possessed, though a few of them only during the summer months, being purposely built for sea-bathing quarters. Besides these, there are three houses building, but which have not yet been inhabited. Character of the People, — The habits of the people are simple ; their houses neat and comfortable, built of stone, and generally slated, and being cast with Irish lime, they appear ex* tremely clean, lightsome, and cheerful. To each house there is a small garden attached, for the purpose of raising vegetables. Besides this, each family is accustomed to procure from the farmers in the neighbourhood, a few falls of ground, more or less, accord- ing to the number, of the family, on which they plant potatoes, which, with the vegetables from the garden, and other offals from the kitchen, enables them to feed a pig by way of provision for the winter. A number of Lord Glasgow's feuars rent a small piece of land, in the immediate vicinity of the village, two acres for each family, on which they raise all the common variety of crops; this enables each of those families to keep a cow, and thereby adds greatly to their happiness and comfort. These little patches of land» being separately inclosed, lying all together, and all in the highest degree of cultivation, exhibit very much the appearance of CUMBBAY. 77 an extensive garden. Among the feuars on Lord Bute's proper^ ty^ (his system is carried on in a somewhat different manner. There, the whole families that keep cows, unite together, have a certain piece of land, forming a considerable farm, which they cultivate in common, and afterwards divide the produce. The other mode, however, is preferable. Besides these small farms, there is, both on Lord Glasgow's and on Lord Bute's property, a very conside* rable tract of land, that is not arable, by way of comnaon, for the use of such families as keep cows, and for which they pay a small rent, so that, upon the whole, the people in general are comfort* able in their circumstances, contented, and happy. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The parish is supposed to contain about 5120 square acres, 3000 of which may be considered as arable. Of the remaining 2000, the commons on the respective properties contain about 30 acres : .120 have been planted, which, be- ing excellently well managed, as to pruning, thinning, &c. are now beginning to be of some little use : 300 or 400 acres more might easily be rendered arable by a little judicious management, such as draining, liming, fencing, &c. in all of which departments there is great room for improvement. This, however, the tenants cannot be expected to do without obtaining longer leases than those which they have been accustomed to obtain, and which are in gene* ral only for nineteen years ; and the proprietors have not yet been disposed to advance the capital necessary for carrying on such im* provements. Upwards of 1400 acres, or rather more than one- fifth of the parish, must be considered as wild, and not at all capa- ble of any degree of cultivation ; a great part of which, however, af- fords pasture for cattle. The higher parts of the parish are most- ly covered with heath, whilst some of the banks and valleys are beautifully ornamented with all the different kinds of natural brush- wood. RentofLamL — The average rent of arable land may be from 15s. to L. 1 per acre ; but of the remainder, not more than from 2s. to 3s per acre. The valued rent of the parish is somewhere about L.1100. Some of the farm-houses have been lately rebuilt, and are there- fore in excellent repair ; the rest, however, are in a very indif- ferent condition. There are in the parish 56 horses, 538 black- cattle, and probably about 60 sheep. Although quarrying forms one of the items of trade in the pa- 78 BUTFfiHIRR. risi), yet it can scarcely be considered as forming a regular source of income. At present, however, it is carried on to a very great ex- tent, there being five quarries, and upwards oC eighty men employ- ed in them, all engaged in cutting out blocks for the dilSerent rail- roads iii the shires of Ayr and Renfrew. More than half of these men, however, are incomers, and, therefore, are not included in the population of the parish. Produce. — The average amount of raw produce raised in the pa- rish may be nearly as follows : Grain of all kinds, L. 2700 Green crops of all kinds, 450 tlay. • 225 Lands io pasture. 1896 Gardens, ■ 50 Plantations, 5 Quarries, • 100 Total amount of raw produce. 5486 ~ "o Navigation. — Tlie highest order of vessels belonging to the place is that of sloops, of which there are fifteen, varying from fourteen to forty tons in burthen. There are also at present two steam-boats, one of which leaves this every morning for Glasgow, and returns again in the evening, calling at all the intermediate places, and in the summer months there are several others which call in passing to and from Glasgow, Ardrossan, and Ayr. V. — Parochial EcoNOMy. As there is no market-town in the parish, the inhabitants in ge- neral repair to Greenock with their merchandise, to which place, though at the distance of nearly twenty*four iniles, they can pro- ceed easily, by the help of steam*boats, in the course of three hours. Village. — The only village in the parish is Milport, which is very pleasantly situated on the south-east comer of the island ; at which place, there is an excellent harbour, capable of containing vessels of considerable burthen, the depth at low water being six feet, and at high water fourteen. Here also, a fine pier has been lately erected, mostly by the Marquis of Bute, on whose property the harbour stands. Near to this harbour, there is also good an* choring ground of considerable extent, and finely sheltered by two small rocky islands called the Allans; to which islands, by means of iron rings fastened in the rocks, both vessels belonging to the island, and others that resort thither in stormy weather, are moor- ed, and where they can ride in perfect safety during the greatest storms. The principal trade of Milport is weaving, which is CUMBRAY. 79 carried on to a very considerable extent, and with considerable va- riety, both in plain and in fancy work. tJpwards of 60 hands af6 employed in this branch of manufacture. Means of Communication. — We have no regular post-office, only a receiving-house connected with the post-office at Largs, which is the nearest post-town. There is no regularly constructed road in the parish, excepting one, which extends from where the old church otice stood, to the ferry, opposite to Largs, a distance of nearly three miles. This road passes through the village of Milport, and is kept in good repair; Formerly, the only regular communication between this and the mainland was carried on solely by this road, which was both inconvenient and precarious, but now, in conse- quence of the more easy and more safe conveyance by steam-boats, the communication is direct from the village, which saves all the trouble and expense of carting for upwards of two miles. Ecclesiastical State. — For several hundred years, the parish church was situated at a place called Kirktown, the only village of note then in the island, and about one-half mile from the place where the present town of Milport now stands, and where the great body of inhabitants reside. Kirktown, however, hat: long ago entirely disappeared, excepting one single farm-house, which still bears its name. The parish church was rebuilt there in 1802, and contain- ed 380 sittings, whieh, although sufficiently large at the time of its erection, was latterly found to be by far too small for the in- creased population of the parish ; accordingly, a petition was pre* sented to the heritors, praying them to enlarge the church accom- modation. To this request, the heritors, very much to their honour, at once acceded ; and in 1837, they built a more commodious and elegant church, containing upwards of 750 sit- tings, and ornamented in front with a very handsome tower. In compliance with the wishes of the people, they have placed it on the rising ground immediately behind the town, where it serves at once to ornament the place, and accommodate the people. Thus, in somewhat less than forty years, the heritors of Cumbray have, of their own accord, twice rebuilt the parish church, thereby ma- nifesting, in the clearest manner, their attachment to the church, and their friendly regard for the best interests of the people. Most of the seats in the present church are let, but at very small sums, averaging only from Is. to 2s. each sitting. The manse was built in 1832, and is of the best order. The glebe con- sists of about 6 acres, is fit only for pasture, and may be worth 80 BUTK8HIRE. about ,L. 10. The stipend amounts to about L. 158, and the 'teinds are exhausted. There are no chapels in the parish in con- nexion with the Establishment, and only one Dissenting meeting- house, which is connected with the Baptist persuasion. Their preacher receives a stipend of L. 20. All the Dissenters in the parish, including those of the Secession, Relief, Independent, and Baptist persuasion, amount only to 26. The rest of the po- pulation attend the parish church with considerable regularity. The number of communicants at the parish church is 300. There is a religious society in the parish, in connection with the Esta. blished Church, the contributions of which may average about L. ^5. Besides this, there may be about L. 10 more collected by the Established Church for particular purposes. The Dissenters have also a Bible and Missionary Society, the contributions to which may amount to about L.6, part of which is collected from members of the Establishment Education. — There is only one parish school, where the follow- ing branches are taught, viz. English, writing, arithmetic, and book- keeping, Latin, mensuration, and navigation. The teacher has all the legal accommodations. The salary is the medium, L. 30. The average number attending is 68. The fees for the common branches of education are 10s. per year for each child. There is also a private school, but no endowment, where English, writing, and arithmetic are taught. Fees, the same as above; average number attending 56. There is also a small school kept by a fe* male, where only reading is taught; terms the same as above; average number attending 2 5, making in all 149, i. e. little more than one in eight of the population ; a proof that education is not over- valued in the parish. In all these, the Scriptures are publicly read, and the catechism of the church taught. Besides these, there are two Sabbath schools conducted by members of the church, to each of which a small library is attached; there is one also by the Dissenters, in all of which the principles of religion are taught. Literature. — There is a parish library, containing a considerable number of religious, historical, and scientific books^ and which is managed by the subscribers. ' Charitable and other Institutions, — There is one such society in the place which is called the Friendly Society. The members pay Is. at entry. They collect according to their necessities, 6d. from each member, and when that has beenexpended, they collect again. Their reduced members receive 2s. 6d. per week, whea 4 CUMBUAV. 81 vfiable to work, and 4s. per week vihen confiDed to becL Ttiere is also a Provident Bank in tbe parisb, ipstiibuted in 18d6| from which time till this date, (1840«) th^re have been opened 104 ac- counts, with sums varying from Is. to L.2d^ AmouotlDg in whole to - - L. J5Q3 18 11 Interest till this date, - - 77 1 .5 24 accounts haTe been dosed, which with L. 1661 4 Drawings on other accounts amount to 799 4 At the credit of 80 open mcomii ts at this date L 661 16 4 With Renfrewshire Bank, L. 828 17 10 In hands of the treasurer, 92 18 6 L.861 16 4 AH the. labour k gratuitous, so tbat the only charge has been about L. 6 for stationery ; such as pasa»books, a ledger, and cash* book, all of which will serve for some years. Those of the people, however, who are of saving habits, do not always confine them* selves to the Provident Bank, but contrive to Dsake tbe best of their money in their own way. They either become feuars, build a small house, furnish it, and let it for summer lodgings, or they procure a sloop, and become traders ; in both of which ways, if they remain steady, they improve their fortune. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The funds for supporting the poor arise from the following sources : Collections at the church door, which last year amounted to L. 39, 2s. 8d. ; proclamations, L. I, 10s. ; mortcloth dues, 10s. ; interest from the bank, L. 8, 4s. lid. ; in all, L. 49, 7s. 7d. The expenditure' for tbe same year was L. 44, 168. lid.; leaving a balance of L. 4, lOs. 9d. Besides this, there is a small fund of L. 45, left by the late Rev. James Adam, minister of the parish, the interest of which, according to appoint- ment, is to assist in educating poor children.* The number of poor receiving aid may average about 25, and they receive from 2s. 6d. to Be. per week. From the above-mentioned sources, the kirk- session, as managers of the poor, have as yet been enabled to support their own poor, and, therefore, have not needed to have recourse to any other mode. In common with other pa- rishes, they have to lament the decline of that principle of inde- pendence which used to characterize Scotland and Scotchmen. Parochial aid is now claimed as a matter of right. * Besides this, Mr Adam {pave in his lifetime, L. 250 to the Presbytery of Irvine, for behoof of widows belonging to that Presbytery. He also left L. 1100 to form three bursaries, which are managed by tbe Karl of Glasgow, the Professor of Di- vinity, Glasgow College, and the Minister of C^unibray. BUTE. F 62 BUTESHIKE. Alehouses, — There are 9 ale or public-houses in the parish^ the effect of which upon the morals of the people is most perni- cious. Various attempts have been made, from time to time, both to lessen their number, and to restrain their licentiousness ; but the misnamed liberality of the present age opposes all such at« tempts, as encroachments on the liberty of the subject MiSCELLANBOITS OBSERVATIONS. There are two things which have frequently been mentioned as being rather opposed to the improvement of the place : the largeness of the farms, most of them being of greater extent than one man can easily superintend ; and the want of resident heri- tors, or men of wealth and influence, .who might either propose or carry into effect any plan for the public good. It has also been often mentioned, that a road round the island would be of vast consequence to the parish ; both to the farmer in carrying his produce to market, and in collecting his manure for the flelds ; to the inhabitants in general in their ordinary in- tercourse, and to strangers, who visit in the summer months, who might be thereby induced to build villas round the shore, and consequently to remain in the place, aud thereby increase the value of the respective properties, and add to the means and re- sources of the parish in general. May 1840. PARISH OF KINGARTH. PRESBYTERY OF DUNOON, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. THE REV. JOHN BUCHANAN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish occupies the southern part of the Island -of Bute. It tidies its name from a promontory forming its estreme point to the south, called in the Gaelic language Cearm Garbh^ which signifies stormy end^ or stormy head. Extent and Boundaries. — It is 6^ miles in length from north to south ; and its average breadth is 24 miles. It is bounded on the north and north-west by the Loch of Ascog, a part of Loch-fud, KFNGARTH. 83 and Qiiien loch, which separate it from the parish of Rothesay ; and on the east, south, and west, by the Frith of Clyde. It is ir- regular in its figure, being indented by several small bays on both sides ; but it gradually narrows from its northern extremity, till it becomes an isthmus of a mile and a half in breadth, beyond which it forms a peninsula of two miles in length, terminating in the pro* montorv above-mentioned. Topographical Appearances. — The land in general rises consi- derably above the level of the sea. The principal hills are Suidhe or Suidhe Chatain (the Seat of Catan)^ 520 feet high, and Saint Blane's Hill, 486 feet The coast to the east and south is for the most part rocky, in many places rising precipitously at a little distance from the shore, in ridges that appear to have at a former period served as a barrier to the sea, and to have been subsequent- ly raised by volcanic action to their present level. To the west the coast has, in general, a more gentle rise, although it exhibits a similar appearance of a shore elevated above its original position. The shore is principally sandy, but to the east and south rocky ; and at Kilchatan bay, and on some parts of the west coast, iC con- tains a stratum of blue clay. The bays are those of Ascog, Scou-. lag, and Kilchatan to the east ; and of Scalpsie, Stravanan, and Dunagoil, to the west. The Only headland is the Garroch-head, which has its name corrupted from the Gaelic Ceann Garbh. A table, serving to indicate the temperature and pressure of the atmosphere, and the prevailing winds in this parish, will be found in the Account of the parish of Rothesay. The climate is somewhat moist ; but is remarkably healthy, and induces invalids to seek it for its singular mildness. No distem- per prevails at any time, that can reasonably be attributed to any peculiarity in the atmosphere, or other local cause ; and cases of longevity are very common. The f^rith of Clyde, which bounds the parish on the east, south, and west, is 9 miles in breadth betwixt Scoulag bay on the east shore, and the nearest point of Ayrshire, at Largs ; and 8 miles in breadth between Dunagoil bay on the west shore, and the nearest part of the Island of Arran ; and 90 fathoms deep betwixt the Garroch-head and Little Cumbrae, where its depth is great- est The water is usually clear; its saltness is diminished by the volume of fresh water proceeding from the Clyde and the rivers-, of Cowal in Argyleshire. The lakes connected with the parish, all of them forming part of iis boundary towards the parish of Rothesay, are, the Loch of 84 UUTESIIIKE* Asoog, containing 75 aeres, 1 rood, 28 poles, imperial, of surface; Quien Loch, containing, 68 acres, 3 roods, 30 pole& ; and Loch- fad, containing about 400 acres. Geology. — The soil is in general of a light gravelly or sandy nature, though in some places loam and clay are to be found. The predominating rocks are old red sandstone with conglomerate, and veins, beds, and overlying masses of trap. IL — Civil History. Of the ancient state of the parish little is known. That it was the sc^ne of important events in times of rapine and bloodshed, may be inferred from its situation, which exposed it alike to the northern invaders, and the ravaging hordes of the Ebudse^ in their attacks on the neighbouring coasts ; and is indicated by its sepulchral antiquities, and the appearances of places of defence still remaining. That it flourisiied in population and in wealth, is to be gathered from its remains of religious edifices, of a date when the distinction of any place for its sacred erections was no bad criterion of the consideration in which it was held for its ge- neral prosperity. But materials for an authentic history of it have not been found. Land'owners. — The lands, for a period extending to several cen« turies back, appear to have been held by several proprietors called Barons^-^a local designation still retained. These have, within tlie last hundred and fifty years, been gradually reduced in number ; and they are at present represented by four owners of a small por- tion of land respectively, iiie rest of the parish being the property of the Marcpiis of Bute. Eminent Men.--- Of persons connected with the parish who allaia- ed eminence that has transmitted their memory to posterity, is to be mentioned Saint Catan, or Catbanus, whose name is preserved in the appellation Kilchatan, (Cil-Chatain, the cell or burying place (f Cateanj) belonging to the bay so called ; and in that of Suidhe Chatain, a hill overlooking the bay, and pointed out as his etaU Saint Blane also. has here monuments of his fame. Tradition as- signs Uy bim this parish as the plaoe of his birth ; adding many particulars respecting him grossly fabulous^ and not deserving to be recorded. He is commonly believed to have been the found- er of the original church of Kingarth, of which the ruins remain, and which is still called by his name ; as is also a hill which as- cends from the Garroch-head. Parochial Reffisier, — ^The parochial register commences in the year 1648^ from which date it is continued with partial interrupt KINGARTH. 85 tioos down to the year 170d« It resumes in 1740| and is r^u- larly kept till 1620, when it is again interrupted till 1827; from which period, it is cx>mplete to the present time* It occupies five volumes. jlntiquities.'^lSieHT the north-east shore of Kilchatan Bay are two barrows or tumuli, at a short distance from each other. One similar, farther along the same shore, was opened some time since, and some pieces of old weapons were dugout of it All barrows of this description, it is believed, will be found to contain sepulchral remains. In the peninsula which connects the northern and southern por- tions of the parish, half a mile from the east shore^ are what have been considered the remains of a Druidical circle. The drcle is imperfect towards the north-west ; but it is distinctly indicated by three stones placed upright, at a distance of from 23 to 25 feet from each other. They are from 7 to 8^ feet high from the surface of the ground ; in breadth from 4 to 6 feet; and from 15 inches to 6 feet thick. The circle has been supposed, when entire, to have been formed by seven stones; but the vacant space appears to leave room only for two, and to limit the original number to five. Nearly jialf a mile distant, towards the west shore, also stand three stones, which have been variously conjectured to have been connected with Druidical rites, or to mark a scene of battle, and to have served as OKMiuments for persons who fell in it. Most probably it was the latter object for which they were erect- ed. They are situated on a plain at the foot of a gently rising ground, half a mile distant from the bay of Stravanan^ where an enemy was likely to land ; and indicate a position singularly fa- vourable for a defending force. On the other hand, they have little appearance of a Druidical erection. They are placed in a line running nearly from north to south, and are made to face to- wards the east and west ; and although their direction has a slight inclination towards being circular, the circumstance may have been accidental : and if they formed part of a circle it must have been greatly larger than that above-mentioned. They stand closer, too, than the stones in the former, the distance betwixt them little ex- ceeding 7 feet. In dimensions, the stones are both nearly alike. A mile farther south, on the west shore, is the fort of Dun-na- goil {ike fortified hill^ or rock^ of the Lowlanders)^ near the bay to which It gives name. It is formed by a ridge of rock 50 feet high, rising with a steep ascent from the sea on the west side, perpendi- ^6 BUTESHIRE. cular to the north and east, narrow and difficult of access towards the south, with a level space of some extent on the summit Along the verge of this space, towards the west and south, are th^ remains of a wall, built apparently for the defence of the place, tvhere it was most accessible, the precipitousness of the rock serv- ing for a natural defence on the other sides. The external partd of this wall appear to have been completely vitrified. ' The heart is formed of stone partially fused. The stone chiefly used in the structure is whinstone, of which the rock itself is composed. The station is a very advantageous one. It commands the most natu* ral, and perhaps the best landing-place on the whole coast ; and it affords a complete view seawards, ai once of the passage from tb^ Western seas by Kilbranan sound, and of the entrance into the Frith of Clyde from the south. All surmises as to its era or use are now vain. It has been conjectured to have been a Danish fort ; its name would rather point it out to have been a hold, oc* cupied, for whatever purpose, by inhabitants of the neighbouring eastern or southern coasts, who, in common with those who dwelt in the interior southern portion of Scotland, were usually describe ed in the Gaelic tongue by the term signifying Lotdander^ as re- tained in the designation of this place. Towards the centre of the peninsula, stands the ruin of the church or chapel of St Blane, supposed to have been founded by the saint whose name it bears, who flourished about the close of the tenth century. That a church existed here at a period not much posterior, and that he was commonly regarded as . having been a benefactor to it, there is evidence still extant to show. In a charter given by Allan, son of Walter ther Second, Great Steward of Scotland, dated before the year 1204, conveying certain grants to the monastery of the Clunian order at Paisley, is contained the fol- lowing clause :* — '^ Also, for the benefit of the soul of King David, and the soul of King Malcolm, and the souls of Walter my father, and Eschene my mother ; and for the salvation of our Lord Wil« Ham, King of Scotland, and his heirs, and the salvation of myself * <* Preterea ego ipse pro aoima regis DaTid, et pro anima regis Malcomi, et pro aniina patris mei Walterii et inatris meas Eschene, et pro salute domini nostri WileU mi regis Scotie, et heredum suorum, et pro salute mei ipsius, et beredum meorum» dono, concedo, et bac mea carta confirmo eidem domut de Passelet, et monaehis ibi- dem Deo servientibus, ecclesiam de Kingaif in insula de Bote, cum omnibus capelliB et tota parocbia ejusdem insulae, et cum tota terra quamsanctus Blanissicumdicitiir? olim cinxit a mari utque ad mai^ per metas certas et apparentes." Registrum Mo- nasterii de Passelet Printed by the Maitland Club. KINGARTH. 87 and my heirs : I give, grants and by this my deed, convey to the said monastery at Paisley, and the monks serving God therein, th^ church of Kingaif (Kingarth) in the island of Bute, vt^ith all the chapels and the whole parish of that island, together with the whole of those lands of which the boundaries, said to have been fixed by St Blane, are still apparent from sea to sea." From this charter, it would appear, also, that at the time of its date, this was the parochial church of the whole island. The extent of the ec- clesiastical lands mentioned in the above grant, it is not now easy to determine. They may have comprehended the whole penin- sula ; perhaps only the part of it which would be cut off by a line drawn from Dunagoil Bay on the west, passing a little to the north of the church, and terminating at one of the small creeks on the eastern shore. The church stands on a level space raised by art considerably above the adjoining ground, and enclosed by a wall of massy stones rudely piled one over another, 500 feet in circum- ference. The whole of this space is found arched or built with mason work underneath, at a distance of two feet from the surface. Connected with it by a built passage that seems to have been un- der ground, is another space on a lower level, and surrounded by a similar wall 124 feet in circumference, which is known by the name of the nunnery. It has been commonly considered to have been the site of a convent ; on no authority that has been disco- vered, but that of tradition. Both spaces have been used for se- pulture ; but this ground is believed to have been set apart as a burying-place exclusively for females ; and the ashes reposing^ in it have been little disturbed for ages, although frequent interments still take place in the other. A considerable portion of the walls of the church remain standing, and discover an architecture of great antiquity. The elevation on which it is situated, is approach- ed on the north by a flight of steps, leading from a grove at a short distance, which contains a remarkable kind of building, of which the use remains altogether unknown. This consists of a wall, forming a complete circle 30 feet in diameter; rising to 10 feet in height above ground, and obviously filled with rubbish to some depth ; 9 feet thick, and having a passage or gateway 9 feet wide. The erection was doubtless formed with a view to great strength. It is composed of rude stones, many of them of immense size. The workmanship seems to be of a more remote date than that of any other part of the adjacent ruins ; but its evident communica- tion with these, shown by marks still remaining, would indicate, 88 BUTESHIRE. its having beeu connected with them, for whatever purpose. It is situated at the foot of a ridge of rock, running from north to south, 50 feet high, and forming at each end a junction with an outer wall, which marked, it is probable, the sacred precincts, and which comprehends a space of some extent beyond any ruins that remaio. The scene around is one of uncommon beauty. Tovrards the north, an amphitheatre of lofty gray rocks secures the seclusion of a spot, with whose time*worn relics it so well harmonizes. On the right, the grove with its deep shade forms a grateful object for the eye to repose on, while its mysterious associations carry the mind back to events and ages long past Before us lifts up its dim form, all that remains of a pile, around which is gathered the depth of interest which its sacred use, its great antiquity, and its gracefulness, even in decay, are so well calculated to create. To the south is the sea, opening up, in the approach to the Frith of Clyde, a view of water and coasts not surpassed in beauty by any similar scene in Scotland. The place of worship for the parish has long been removed to a situation more central for the inhabitants, on a rising ground, between the bays of Kilchatan and Stravanan. The pressent church is an elegant modem structure. There is also a small neat church within the grounds of Mountstuart, near Scoulag Bay, still in good repair, that had beeu Rome time used as the pa- rish church. Mansion Houses. — The mansion-house of Mountstuart Was built by James, second Earl of Bute, in the year 1718. The grounds around it were laid out about the same period in the styleof the time. The plantations are extensive, and contain many trees of a remark- able size. The flower garden is an object of great attraction. It has been formed under the direction of the present accomplished Marchioness of Bute, whose taste has adorned it with many rare and beautiful plants. Such is the mildness of the climate, that here are found, in a vigorous state, some exoticis which thrive in few places in Britain. Together with Ascog House, built in the fashion of the seven- teenth cetitury, there are several ornamental villas, recently erected, on the north-east coast of the parish. III. — Population. According to the former Statistical Account, the number of inhabitants in the parish in March 1791, was 727 By the census of 1801, it was 875 1811, 854 KINGAKTH. 89 By the census of 1821, 890 1831, 746 In April of this year, there being males, 401, | , and females. 439. 5 ^^^' "" ^^ In the work aboYe-mentioned, Mr Thorbum states, that the population had decreased in number by 230 inihe course of fifteen years previous to the year 1791, which circumstance he accounts for by ^' the town of Rothesay finding employment for day-labour* ers and other workmen, and affording them higher wages than they can receive in a country parish." Since that period, the most considerable fluctuation in the state of the population is shown in the increase of it by 148, betwixt the years 1791 and 1801, for which no cause has been assigned : the decrease of it by 1 44, betwixt the years 1821 and 1831, probably owing to the enlarge* ment of farms, and the removal of cot^houses, which took place about that time ; and the increase of it by 94, betwixt the years 18t}l and 1840, which is to be ascribed, partly, to the erection of several villas in the interval ; and partly, it is probable, to the greater number of farm-servants required by the progress of agri* cultural improvement in the parish during that period. The number of persons residing in villages, is : — In Kerrycroy village, male8^29; females, 85; total, 64. In Kilchatan Bay, males, 74; females, 79; total, 153. Total in villages, 217. Residing in the country, males, 298 ; females, 325 ; total, 623. The yearly average of births for the last seven years has been, — males born, 74; females, 76; average for each year, 21?. Of deaths, — males died, 45; females, 38; average, llj. Of mar« riages, 9. Average of persons under 15 years of age, 285 between ) 5 and 90, 262 aO and 50, 202 50 and 70, 64 upwards of 70, 27 The number of unmarried men upwards of 50 years of age, is of bachelors, 5 widowers, 8 women upwards of 45 years of age, . 10 widows, ...... 28 Tbe ayerage number of children in each family is . . . 5 Number of families in the parish in 1831, ... 146 chiefly employed in agriculture, . 58 trades, manufactures, and handicraft, 1 4 There are 4 fatuous persons, 3 being males, and 1 a female ; 2 blind persons, a male and a female ; and one female deaf and dumb. The Marquis of Bute has a residence in the parish, at Mount- stuart; and there are besides him, three proprietors of land of the yearly value of upwards of L. 50. go BUTESHIRE. Language^ $*c.— The English language is that spoken in gene- ral by the inhabitants. Persons who have come to maturity un- derstand commonly the Gaelic language also ; but its use has much decreased within the last forty years, and is now chiefly confined to the aged, among the natives of the parish. The people are cultivated in their habits. They are, for the most part, remark- able for cleanliness both in their persons and in their dwellings. Their dress is plain and decent. The food of the peasantry equals, in plenty and quality, that of any of their degree in the coun- try. All classes enjoy a full ordinary share of the comforts and ad- vantages belonging to their situation in life, and appear to be cor- respondingly contented and happy. In their intellectual, moral, and religious character, they afford a fair specimen of their coun- trymen. Smuggling is wholly unknowtr among them ; and in no similar district, probably, is there less of poaching. IV. — Industry. The parish contains-?- Of land occasionally under tillage, imperial measure, 3936 acres, 3 roods, 39 poles. Moor and pasture land, . . 3071 21 Land that might, with a profitable application of ca- pital, be brought into cultivation, . 377 21 Under wood \ natural. coPPice, 34 A. 2 R. 10 F. ( ^^ ^ I under wooa. j plantations, 905 1 31 $ ^'^ " * Total extent, 8325 acres, I rood, 2 poles. The plantations consist of spruce, larch, and Scotch fir, with the usual proportion of oak, and other hard-wood ; and are carefully thinned, and otherwise well managed. The average rent of ara- ble land is 19s. an acre. Wages. — Men-servants receive from L. 7, 10s. to L. 8 of wages for the half-year; maid-servants from L. 3, 10s. to L. 4; country artisans are paid from Is. 8d. to 2s. a day ; and day-labourers, Is. 6d. a day during winter, and Is. lOd. in summer, Live-Stock, — Great attention has, of late, been paid to the rear- ing of cattle ; of which the breeds and mode of management are, with little variation, the same as In Ayrshire. Agriculture has- made rapid advances, especially within the last twelve years. A complete system of draining has been introduced ; the most ap- proved rotation in crops is observed; the use of the subsoil plough is beginning to prevail ; and an enterprising tenantry are ready to import the most recent discoveries in husbandry. The duration of leases is nineteen years ; a period generally acknowledged to be advantageous both to landlord and tenant. The farm-houses and offices, for the most part, have been recently built, and are remark- KIN(iARTU. dl ably neat and commodious. The grounds are well inclosed, chiefly with thorn hedges. Every advantage is derived by the tenants from the well known zeal for agricultural improvement of the principal proprietor, the Marquis of Bute, and from the attention to the welfare and comfort of all classes of the community for which he is distinguished. The parish contains coal, which, however, has not been wrought, owing, either to a defect in the seams, or the facility with which that article can be imported. Lime is abundant; t)f which, besides the supply afforded for the whole island, a quan- tity is shipped for exportation at Kilchatan Bay. Fisheries, — The 6sheries are chiefly confined to whiting, had- "dock, and cod ; and salmon, the fishing of which has been com- menced within these few years. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish is estimated as follows : Produce of grain of all kinds, vis. 50 acres of wheat, at L. 9 per acre, . L. 450 140 do. barley, at L. 7 . . 980 610 do. oats, at L. 4, 15s. . 2897 L. 4327 390 do. turnips and potatoes, at L. 10 per acre, 8300 330 do. hay, at L. 5 per acre, • . 1650 ' Land in pasturage, viz. Grazing for 390 cows, and fattening stock, at L. 2, 158. each, .... 1083 10 Do. for 420 head of young stock of different ages, at L. 1, 58. each, . . . 525 Pasture for 1650 sheep, at 58. each, . . 412 10 Do. breeding-mares and young horses, esti- mated at . . . 250 2271 Rshcries, . . . . 710 Ume, . . . . 550 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L. 12808 The annual value of the real property of the parish, in the year 1815, as assessed for the property tax, was L. 3820. Navigation. — The shipping belonging to the parish in all does not exceed 50 tons. Craft of considerable burden from other places frequent the ports, for purposes of importation and exportation. To the increase of produce both for home consumption, and for the market, the Bute Farmers' Society has greatly contributed ; and under its spirited encouragement, still greater improvements may be expected to be made. 92 BUTESHIRK. V. — Pahochial Economy. Market. — There is no market-town in the parish. In the year 1703^ JaiDeSy first Earl of Bute, obtained a charter from the Crown for the erection of the burgh of regality of Mountstuart ; granting thereto power to deal in merchandise, and to carry on handicraft trades, to have a weekly market, and three annual fairs, and to erect free ports and harbours ; and conferring on it all other privi- leges enjoyed by burghs of regality. The provisions of that char- ter, however, were not carried into effect ; the thriving royal burgh of Rothesay, with its commodious harbour, in the neighbour- hood, probably offering most of the advantages contemplated from the proposed erection of a new market-town, and port. Rothe- say is now the market-town for the parisli, distant six miles from the parish church. The villages are, Kerrycroy, consisting of a few neatly built houses at the bay of Scoulag ; and Kilchatan-bay, so-called from its being situated in the bay of that name, and which contains fifty inhabited houses. Means of Communication^ — There are no public means of com* munication betwixt the parish and Rothesay ; and that burgh be- ing the nearest post-town, the want of a post-office is felt to be a great inconvenience. There are no turnpikes, but the roads are good, and adapted for carriages of all descriptions. The bridges are sufficient ; and the fences are attended to. There is a wharf at Kilchatan Bay, for lading and unlading small craft ; and also at Scoulag Bay. The former is about to receive considerable en- largement, demanded by the rapid increase of agricultural produce exported from this quarter. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is conveniently situat- ed, four miles distant from the northern extremity of the parish, and two miles and a-half from the southern. It was built in the year 1826. It has accommodation for 600 persons. All the sit* tings are free ; and ample space remains for accommodating an iiH crease of population. The manse and offices were built in the year 1769. They were last repaired in the year 18dd» and are in a comfortable state. The glebe contains nearly 1 1 acres imperial, and has been valued at L. 12 per annum. The minister's stipend con- sists of 47f 1^ bolls imperial of meal ; and 10 quarters 6^1 bush- els imperial of bear; and L. 148, 6s. 7i^5d. money* The last augmentation of the stipend took place in the year 1814. The teinds are exhausted. There is no. place of worship but the pa- 4 KIVGAUTH. 93 rochial church. The inhabitants are in general a churcb-going people. The annual average of communicants, during the last thirteen years, has been 281. There is one family in connection with the United Associate Synod ; and one person who is a Roman Catholic The rest of the people belong to the Established Church. Education. — There are three schools, one of them parochial. In it the usual branches of education are taught, including Latin and Greek ; in the others, chiefly English-reading, writing, and arithmetic. The parochial schoolmaster has the legal accommo* dations, with the minimum salary. The other teachers have schoolid. 3 UOTHKSAY. 96 •of the fields shows careful and skilful cultivation to have arrived at a pitch not often perhaps attained, and seldom exceeded, in the more fertile districts of the kingdom ; and a glance at the amount of the raw produce, as shown above, compared with that from the former Statistical Account, we gather it to have been at the pe- riod when that account was written, will prove how great an in- crease in the profits of the soil has accompanied the improvement in its management. Ju}ie 1340. PARISH OF ROTHESAY. PRESBYTERY OF DUNOON, SYNOD OF ARGYLE. THE REV. ROBERT CRAIG, A.M. MINISTER, I. Tol»OGRAPHY AND NATURAL HiSTORY. Name.' — Rothesay parish comprehends the whole of the northern part of the Island of Bute, which gives name to the county. The word Bute is of unceriain meaning and origin, though it may pro* bably be connected with the term Ebudae, by which the western islands of Scotland are sometimes denominated. The ancient Gaelic name of this parish, according to the former Account, was, Cilia 'Bhruif signifying "the Church of St Broke." This seems never to have been its proper name. (See Ecclesiastical History.) The present name is said to be derived from the Gaelic Rofk-suidhe, " circular seat," or the place where courts were held, and justice dispensed. This was done in very ancient times on round artifi- cial mounds, which are still called Laws or Motes, in Scotland. Extent^ §"c. — The length of the parish from south to north, is 9| miles, and the average breadth S^ miles, which gives an ex* tent of 31 4 square miles, equal to 16,133 Scots acres. The Scots acres, by actual measurement, are ascertained to be 15,99d. Its greatest width is at the south end, from Bogany point to Ardscalpsie point, a distance of 5^ miles. It is bounded on the south by the parish of Kingarth, on the West by the sea which separates Bute from Arran and Kintyre, on the north by the kyles of Bute which separate it from the dis* 9G BUTESHIKE. tricts of Kerry and Cowal in Argyleshire, and on the east by the Frith of Clyde. The extent of its sea coast is about 80 miles, fol- lowing the windings of the principal bays and headlands. If to this we add the small island of lachmarnock, about 5 miles in circumference, and separated from Rothesay on the west side about 2 miles, we have 35 miles of coast in the parish. The shore is in general shelving rock and gravel, and is neither bold nor flat. The principal bays on the west side, are, Scalpsie, at the southern extremity of the parish, Saint Ninian's farther north, lying opposite to the island of Inchmamock, and still farther north, about the centre of the parish, Ettrick. On the-north east there are two, Karnes, and Rothesay, both of them remarkably beautiful, and the latter, which is farthest to the east, affords the finest anchorage in the west of Scotland. In stormy weather a hundred vessels may be seen riding at anchor, which have found an easy entrance to it from the Frith of Clyde. The surface of the parish is in general hilly, intersected from east to west by two beautiful valleys, the one stretching from the head of Rothesay bay to Ardscalpsie bay, and the other from the head of Kames bay to Ettrick bay. It is coQceived that these may once have been arms of the sea, dividing what is now the pa- rish of Rothesay into two islands. Barone hillf about a mile S.W. from the town of Rothesay, has an elevation above the sea of 532 feet. Common kill^ about 1^ miles west of Rothesay, 480 feet ; and Kames hiil^ near the head of the bay of that name, 875 feet. From these and many smaller elevations the most delightful views of the surrounding scenery are obtained. Climate. — The air of Rothesay is remarkably mild and genial, which has led many to call the place the Montpelier of Scotland : the winter snows are hardly ever known to lie above a day or two unmelted ; and ever-green plants, which thrive admirably here, are seldom or ever injured by the frosts. Such is the mildness and salubrity of the climate, that many persons affected with consumption, asthma, and rheumatism derive the greatest benefit from a winter residence in the island* The range of the thermometer is here less than, perhaps, in any other part of Scotland, which, together with the fine shelter of the town of Rothesay, may account for its remarkable healthiness. The following tables, kept with great care and accuracy at the cotton-works, deserve attention : ROTHESAY. 97 s o *a«»|\[ o CO ' i<" IV' i*' 1# 'T^ ^^- ^^- ^ *axnai{^ 0a(NOl(M(NCM(MOll^eO*OCO ©'-•o*cococo»-0 O) Q 91 91 91 CO 00 O O) CO (M 04 t« OQ CO 9) 91 91 04 GQ 0« 91 CO OD ^ CO 91 O ;b CO 91 91 M 01 91 91 M )Q t« 91 00 91 01 M 91 •mous I OC0OOOOOOOOO-* 91C0C0OOOOOOOOO 1«A I 'idiioqs •4WJ ■taqdaj i>^coeo^9io^^o>xco oot*a»^'-^<-i^ooco9iO) IS C0C«*091XC0a»C0O«091U) 91 00 00 i 02 o OiOii>ooao»o^»o — oic* — CO ^^^XC0l>O'-*910iO»0 •-<-i^ »- F- 91 -^ 91 ^ — 04 p-K »^ 1-^ O) X oap"^^»ocoo>ot«acoco ab<9oO91-<9l0d*0QDC0^ CO OQ 91 91 91 91 91 CO "^fi ^ CO CO QO^COO^OO^OOCO^X aD>p9>paiOf5t» ^^CO'^^<-iCOC0^91OOaD0)91C091C0 m^ r^ 1^ ^N 91 9< CO 1 9i a •a ►-*O,9100^O^'*'^O9l^ ti 0)0'^91CO<^*0<-i9ICOtI<^ IOD «e •a *N .5 ^ ■I 'M 'N O91^'^'-'t>'^C0OC0^C0 Oir*«COO>l>*0'*0»OC0091 § s •Jaflip *a«j|^ fqhiiHMHatcgN"iBl>l>Q0>^»9^ab O) 00 91 919lScom33$eoS9191 91 CO CO i «IUIX«P[[ 3 00 O 91 00 _ »0 »0 »0 CO t- c- 91 O l> 91 CO — 00 «> l> CO ^ ^ ^ O ^.00 ^ ^ 00 CO CO 00 »o»o»o»ocot*t*i>co»o»o^ o CO is BUTE. o 98 BUTESHIRE. Rain fallen in Bute during tbe under-noted years, as measured by Rain-Gqages at Mountstuart and Rothesay. yw. Jan. 1800 1801 1802 1803 1804 1805 1806 1807 1808 ^809 1810 1811 1812 1818 1814 1815 1816 1817 1818 1819 1820 1821 1822 185^ 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 1832 1833 Feb. Mar. 6.67 8.63 3.33 3.15 8.21 4.88 8.09 4.22 5.47 1.67 6.13 4.76 3.81 5.95 .83 1.73 5.89 5.65 7.40 6.60 4.65 2.00 3.05 2.15 3.02 5.22 2.05 5.12 5.45 1.72 1.36 1.24 1.85 1.03 183419.00 1835 1836 1837 1838 1839 Aver. 2.50 7.30 3.50 1.40 4.20 3.15 4.52 5.59 4.63 1.49 4.76 5.42 3.51 2.92 3.69 3.81 9.88 4.76 9.17 3.39 3.63 1.49 6.67 5.70 5.20 1.20 2.47 3.66 4.79 2.00 3.30 633 2.68 i.S6 2.30 3.46 4.00 2.66 5.07 3.30 6.05 2.90 6.30 1.80 4.70 Apr. M7 1.21 4.88 3.57 2.32 5.71 6.31 1.61 1.90 .24 2.91 3.57 2.98 4.64 3.81 2.02 8.09 4.76 5.71 5.90 2.90 3.20 5.13 4.74 3.98 4.00 2.72 ^.00 8.14 2.56 2.32 4.18 7.20 4.86 1.00 4.00 4.30 6.00 1.60 5.?0 5.60 May June 5.89 .62 i.52 2.74 2.02 1.07 1.61 3.81 3.33 2.50 3.57 5.00 1.19 2.14 4.29 2.09 1.19 .83 1.40 2.50 1.75 3.42 1.42 .90 2.66 2.68 2.42 3.80 3.76 2.42 3.96 1.84 2.20 2.02 .60 1.60 3.70 2.90 2.60 2.00 4.17 3.94 2.80 2.14 1.13 3.81 5.95 1.31 3.21 4.05 5.77 2.80 .83 6.53 3.57 2.38 .36 4.70 3.81 1.90 1.75 5.15 4.45 1.66 .61 3.70 .36 3.00 .19 3.00 2.60 3.25 4.10 1.86 1.21 2.03 2.10 5.80 .20 2.20 1.10 1.90 3.52 2.75 .95 1.37 3.21 2.50 2.86 1.55 ^32 1.79 2.50 2.32 2.14 3.81 2.14 1.61 2.38 5.48 3.51 4.64 4.85 4.90 2.75 .05 1.35 .53 1.00 2.84 .40 3.70 2.28 2 60 2.48 2.50 2.50 3.08 4.20 1.70 3.60 2.20 5.10 3.00 2.61 July Aug. 1.70 5.30 5.71 1.96 .83 3.33 4.52 5.48 4.17 2.20 4.05 2.86 2.98 2.98 4.52 2.44 2.74 6.21 5.90 3.00 1.00 2.44 4.56 6.33 *72 .27 2.23 ao5 4.80 3.42 5.79 3.12 2.02 1.90 2.70 4.60 7.50 2.40 5.30 3.40 1.28 2.05 4.94 4.31 5.36 3.69 5.65 4.09 8.51 8.99 3.93 8.09 4.76 1.90 5.00 5.06 2.74 6.67 2.05 2-15 6.15 2.04 2.86 6.58 3.70 3.93 5.00 2.63 4.80 7.16 4.32 4.32 2.80 2.04 3.50 5.20 3.70 3.50 5.90 5.10 Sep.IOct. 3.60 5.95 2.02 2.86 3.27 2.74 4.17 3.69 5.00 1.90 4. 10 2.20 2.26 2.86 3.93 2.14 8.33 6.25 2.86 4.30 5.85 4.50 5.54 2.09 6.54 4.02 4.76 2.31 2.90 3.30 3.20 8.43 3.15 3.00 6.20 3.10 6,00 7.90 3.20 4.00 7.80 4.41 5.27 6.07 6.19 1.67 8.21 .77 4.76 5.77 8.99 3.03 3.45 9.82 9.05 4.52 4.76 6.61 3.75 2.68 5.85 5.70 3.25 6.90 5.62 4.00 4.30 6.50 8.60 3.73 4.40 5.56 2.56 8.60 4.90 15.70 3.80 3.90 5.30 6.20 5.00 5.70 Nov. Dec. 4.21 7.02 3.42 .95 4.28 3.81 2.97 8.63 3.51 5.59 3.39 4.52 16.79 4.52 5.95 7.38 4.11 3.93 6.19 6.30 ^.85 4.10 6.78 8.30 3.00 7.68 7.55 3.20 4.22 7.10 5.16 5.28 6.22 5.25 5.70 3.30 7,10 6.30 6.50 ?.00 3.70 5.28 5.13 4.20 4.14 5,71 3.81 2.02 4.64 9.88 2.79 3.27 8.57 8.33 8.57 1.79 2.14 7.62 5.47 7.02 5.95 6.50 6.75 4.70 5.48 2.92 7.50 7.00 4.21 5*65 7.88 7.50 9.34 3.57 6.55 6.00 10.10 3.50 3.70 5.90 4.70 4.50 4.50 Quantity Yearly. 5.43 46.09 45.16 47.71 38.45 49.81 39.45 59.39 45.92 52.66 46.17 46.53 71.37 46.07 46.49 44.69 57.67 47.08 52.96 57.90 53.55 41.70 4^91 41.18 50.00 42.46 46.98 40,38 50.85 53.11 41.45 49.49 50.80 39.25 45.87 43.10 52.40 61.20 45.20 44.90 51.60 The Average Temperature and Rain from 1828 to 1839 is as follows Year. 1828, 1829, 1830, 1831. 1832. 1833, 1834, 1835, 1836, 1837, 1838, 1839, Thermometer. 50-.73 47 .84 47 .78 48 .95 47 .89 47 .32 49 .16 46 .58 45 .08 46 .00 43 .40 46 .45 Rain in inches. 5.3.11 41.45 49.49 5080 89.25 45.87 43.10 52.40 61.20 45.20 44.90 51.60 ROTHBSAV. 99 Hydrography, — There is a remarkable sulphuretted spring, dis* covered in 1831, close to the shore at Bogany point, and about a mile east fron) Rothesay. It is much visited by invalids, and many have derived great benefit from the use of its waters. The follow- ing analysis and note are by Dr Thomas Thomson, Professor of Chemistry in the University of Glasgow :— ** In an imperial gallon, or 277,274 cubic inches, there are com- mon salt, 1860.73 grains; sulphate of lime, 125.20; sulphate of soda, 129.77 ; chloride of magnesium, 32.80 ; silica, 14.39. *^ The sulphuretted hydrogen gas in the imperial gallon was 17.4 cubic inches. The great use of this kind of water is in diseases of the skin. When taken internally, or used in a bath, it is the most valuable medicine in existence in such diseases. It is also useful in glandular diseases in general." We may add, that it has been found exceedingly beneficial in many cases of rheumatism. The number of lochs in the parish is five, besides two which divide it from Kingarth on the south. ] . LocbfWd, * which is near Rothesay, and covers, % Greenan, one mile and a half to the west, 8. Dhu, .... 4. Bull -loch, 5. Red-loch, . . . • 6. Ascog on the south border, • 7. Quien, west of Ascog loch, Geology and Mineralogy.-^That part of the parish which lies south of the bay of Rothesay and of Lochfad is entirely composed of conglomerate and red sandstone; while all to the north of these consists of mica-slate, clay-slate, chlorite-slate, traversed by trap and quartz veins.f The soil is in general shallow on the more elevated ground. In some parts, it is. light, in others of stiff retentive clay, in others mossy. The finest soil, which is alluvial, is in the valley which stretches from Kames to Ettrick bay. It is loamy, and in some places mixed with moss, yielding most abundant crops of wheat, oats, barley, turnips, potatoes, &c« On the west shore at St Ninians bay, there is a bed of marl of considerable depth and value. There are no mines of importance, if we except the greenstone quarry in the immediate vicinity of Rothesay, out of which most of the houses * The cotton mill-dam which is connected with Lochfad oovers, when full, 67 acres additional. ^ f For furUier geological details, see Professor Jameson's " Mineralogy of the Scottish Isles,"* Vol I p. 127 to p. 133. Acres. Roods. Falls. 151 11 2 S5 7 21 5 30 2 25 70 54 2 36 100 BUTESHIRE. in the town are built, and the slate-quarry near Kanaesi which is little wrought at present. Zoolopy.-^ln Lochfadand Ascogloch are found abundance of pike and perch, and in Greenan loch excellent trout The sea coast yields plenty of salmon, cod, haddocks, whitings, &c. with which Rothe- say market is well and constantly supplied. It is beHeved that, if our fishers were more enterprising than they are, our shores might be rendered much more productive of gain to them, than they are at present. Botany. — This parish is an excellent field for botanists, and is often visited by them, on account of the many rare plants which are found in it. Among the less common plants in the parish of Rothesay may be mentioned : — Pinguicula Lusitanica Nymphea alba Anagallis tenella Cotyledon umbilicus Subularia aquatica Osmunda regalis Saxifraga aizoides Lycopus Europteus Scolopendrium vulgare Hypericum Androssemum Scutellaria galericulata Lycopodium selago. Lobelia Dortroanna Bidens tripartita There are various plantations of fir, larch, oak, ash, elm, beech, &c. which are all thriving. In the court of the Castle of Rothesay, there is a remarkable thorn tree of great height, and which, at the distance of three feet from the ground, measures 6 feet 3 inches in circumfe- rence. Last year it fell from its own weight, and now lies pros- trate with half of its roots uncovered, but still vigorous in growth. There are two remarkable ash trees, half-way between the town and the parish church, one on either side of the road, with their branches touching each other. They are commonly called Adam and Eve^ and are venerable for their age, their numerous branches, some of which are broken off, and for the mass of wood which they con- tain. One of them girths 16| feet, three feet from the ground, and the other 1 ] feet at the same distance. An oakofgreat size grows near the cottage of the late Edmund Kean, the tragedian, on the banks of Lochfad, under which he often expressed a wish that he might be buried. It measures 1 1 feet 1 inch in girth, three feet from the ground, and has a beautifully clean straight bole 16^ feet high to the first branch, where the circumference is 10 feet. Its finely balanced and conically shaped top spreads over an area 65 feet in diameter, covering 365 square yards, or about the Idth part of an imperial acre. There is a magnificent plane tree on the farm of Shalent, near the north extremity oftthe parish. It grows on the margin of a deep ravine, and divides into two limbs near the ground. One of these measures 12 feet, and the other 1 1 feet in ROTHESAV; 101 Circumference. There are some noble plane, chestnut, and ash trees in the grounds at Karnes Castle. IL — Civil History. The royal burgh of Rothesay is situated at the head of a bay of the same name, on the north- east side of the Island of Bute, and is the chief town of the county of Bute. It is governed by a provost, two bailies, a dean of guild, treasurer, and twelve coun- cillors, and now unites with the county of Bute in sending a Mem- ber to Parliament Besides the burgh courts, the Sheriff and Jus- tice of Peace Courts and County meetings are held here. Rothesay Castle, now a noble ruin, was probably one of those erected by Magnus Barefoot, King of Norway in 1098, to secure his conquest of the western islands of Scotland. A village gra- dually arose around the walls, and under the protection of the Castle. Bute being one of the ancient possessions of the house of Stuart, the Castle of Rothesay continued to be a place of their occasional residence, after they came to the throne. On 12th January 1401, King Robert III. erected the town, which had been previously made a burgh of barony, into a royal burgh, and endowed it with a considerable landed territory. Its privileges were confirmed and extended by King James VL, by charter dated , 19th February 1585. The town of Rothesay necessarily shared the fortunes of its castle in the various wars in which Scotland was engaged, and was repeatedly taken and plundered by the Norwegians, by the Lords of the Isles, by the Englj^h, and by the different parties during the civil wars. The town, however, seems to have enjoyed fre- quent periods of prosperity, having been a mart, at which the Highlanders and western islanders met with the Lowlanders to exchange thdr commodities. Hence, arose, probably the opinion which is still prevalent, that Bute is a kind of neutral ground, neither highland nor lowland. About the year 1700, when Campbelltown was greeted into a royal burgh, the family of Argyle held out great inducements to people to settle there, and many of the traders of Rothesay accepted of the tempting offers made to them. Having thus lost, not only many of her traders, but a great part of her trade also, the town fell greatly into decay, so that in the year 1760 nearly one-half of the houses had been allowed to fall into ruins, and the population had diminished to about oue-half of what it was formerlv. It continued in this 1an« guishing state till 1 765, when a custom-house was established here for the accommodation of the Irish colonial trade; all colonial 102 BUTESHIRE. produce requiridg at that time to be landed in ' Britain before it could be imported into Ireland. The Inhabitants of Rothesay then began to engage in the herring fishery, in which they were very successful. The town arose as it were from its ruins ; and the harbour was enlarged. In 1778, an English Company esta- blished a cotton manufactory here, being the first of the kind in Scotland. It was not long afterwards transferred into Scotch hands, the celebrated David Dale having become its proprietor. This contributed much to the prosperity of the place, and to the increase of the population. The mills have since become greatly enlai^ed. For many years Rothesay was resorted to by such sea bathers as were fond of retirement, but the introduction of steam navigation in 1814 having rendered access to this place so easy, it has now become a fashionable watering-place. The demand for houses has increased so much on this account, that now new streets have been laid off on each side of the bay, and additional houses are constantly erecting. Ecdesiastical Htatory.'-rli appears from a charter granted by Allan, the son of Walter, High Steward of Scotland, to the mo* nastery of Paisley, of the church of Kingarth and whole parish of Bute, about the year 1 178, that Rothesay was not then erected into a parish. The patronage of the churches in Bute does not seem to have remained for any length of time in the hands of that monastery, as it is not included in any subsequent charter of confirmation. The first mention of the church of Rothesay that occurs is, that Gilbert de Templeton, Jlector of the church of Rothesay, appears tn the list of those who swore fealty to King Edward L of England, anno 1296. In 1320, Allan, Bishop of the Isles, was entered ^' in Ecclesia Beat® Mariae de Rothesay in Buth/' where his successor Gilbert was also entered two years af- ter. It appears from these notices, as well as fit)m many others down to the period of the Reformation, that the parish church was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and not to St Broke, as is errone- ously stated by the late Dr M'Lea in his Statistical Account. *^ Cilia Bhruic" said by him to be the name given to that church by the Highlanders, is no better than a nicknante, there being no such saint in the Romish Callendar. The mbister's stipend was, in 161 d» described as the ^^ vicarage and small Brokis of Rothesay ;" and it was probably from this term, that the fair held in July, (which was instituted in 1585), was denominated ^^ St Bruz day," or " Brux-day Fair." The tithes (fructus) of the rectory of Si Mary of Rothesay were granted by King James IV. to the col- ROTHESAY. 103 legiate church of Restalrig, near Edinburgh, confirmed by ehar« ter of King James V., 10th October 1615. And on the dissolu- tion of those establishments at the Reformation^ these tithes were annexed to the chapel royal, the deans and prebends of which still hold, or at least lately held them. John Stewart, sheriff of Bute, obtained a grant of the patronage of Rothesay from the Crown, 18th January 1591, which still continues in the family of Bute. The original church of St Mary of Rothesay, the walls of thd choir of which yet remain close to the present parish churchy was probably built as early as 1296, the windows being of the form then in use. It was one of the cathedral churches of the isles during the times of Popery, and was the sole cathedral of that see during the times of Protestant Episcopacy. On the south side of the choir,' there is the monument of a knight with his recumbent figure, represented in the style of armour in use about the end of the reign of Robert III. Tliat he was one of the royal family is certain from the coat of arms, but the individual cannot now be ascertained. There is also the monument of a lady and child on the opposite side, ruder in execution, and the form of the arch over it shows it to be a century later. The area of the choir and nave were used for interment by the principal heritors. The nave was taken down in 1692, when a new church on the present site was erected out of the ruins. This church also was taken down in 1795, and the present church then erected. Jntiquities. — At St Calmag's, near Ettrick, there is a Druid's temple in considerable preservation, and there are faint traces of se* veral other such temples in various parts of the parish. Numbers of large standing stones and tumuli* are found, the memorials of ancient battles. There are the ruins of thirteen hill-forts, some of which have lately been demolished : and the ruins or vestiges of twelve small chapels or oratories, including the one on Inchmar- nock ; such as the chapel in the court of the Ca«:tle of Rothesay ; St Bride's on the Chapel-Hill, close by the town; Kilmorie M'Neil; St Ninian's Point; Nether Ardroscadale ; St Calmag, where a large stone cross still stands ; Kildavanan ; Kilmichael, at the liorth end of the island, &c. There are also the following eastles, viz. 1. The Royal Castle of Rothesay above-mentioned, which consists of a circular court flanked by four round towers, * A tumulus on the side of a small stream near the Point House has been parti- ally opened, and b found to oontain many human bones mixed vitb the stones, tt is said to have been the scene of a bloody battle between the BAnnatynes of Kamei and the Spences of North Karnes. 104 BUTESHIRE. and a building erected by King Robert IL projecting betwixt two of them on the north-east side ; the whole surrounded by a wet. ditch* It was burnt during the civil wars in 1686, till which time it had been the residence of the Bute family, who were its heritable keep* ers* 2. Kames Castle, a single tower, built probably in the four- teenth century ; long the residence of the Bannatynes of Kames. It was formerly surrounded by a ditch, which was filled up, and a modern house added to the tower by the late Liord Bannatyne. It now belongs to James Hamilton, Elsq. of Kames. 3. Wester Kames Castle, formerly the seat of the Spences of Wester Kames, was a small tower of no great antiquity, and is now in ruins. 4. Kilmorie Castle, which consbted of several towers and buildings, was the residence of the Jamiesons of Kilmorie, crowners or co- roners of Bute, and is now in ruins. The original town-house of Rothesay was situated in Watergate ; and when it became ruin- ous, another was erected in 1614 in Castle Street, and this has lately been replaced by a handsome building in the castle style, covering the sites of both the former ones, and erected at the ex- pense of the burgh and county. The island of Inchmarnock, which lies about two miles west of St Ninian'^B Point, may be regarded as a natural appendage of this parish, although it is really extra^parochial, and pays no teind to the minister. This island belonged to the monastery of Sadell in Kintyre. And the monasteries were not subject to the jurisdic- tion of parish ministers, nor even always to the bishops. Inch- marnock was given to the monastery of Sadell by Rodericus de Kintyre, probably about the year 1220, before the parish of Rothe- say was erected, and it continued under the charge of the monks down to the period of the Reformation. There is a large manuscript history of this parish in the possessioD of Mr Archibald M^Lea, writer, Rothesay, written by the late Mr Blane, sheriff-substitute of Bute. There is also a printed account of the Castle of Rothesay, by John Mackinlay, Esq. collector of her Majesty's customs, who^ it is understood, is at present en- gaged in writing a history of Bute, and whose acquaintance with this subject is remarkably accurate and extensive. There is a map of the county of Bute by the same gentleman, showing the bounds of the different parishes. Several surveys of the parish by celebrated engineers, have been executed at the instance and ex- pense of the Marquis of Bute, and are in his possession. Many documents illustrative of the history and antiquities of the parish are also among his Lordship's archives. ROTHESAY. 105 • Eminent Men, — King Robert IIL died here in 1406. Robert Wallace, Bishop of the Isles, died here 16th May 1669, and was interred in the church. The celebrated John Earl of Bute, Prime Minister to George' IIL was buried here. Matthew Stewart,. Professor of Mathematics in the University of Edinburgh, son of Dr Dugald Stewart, minister of this parish, and father of the late Professor Dugald Stewart of Edinburgh, was bom here in 1717, Land'Otonera. — Tlie chief land-owners are, the Marquis of Bute, who owns six-sevenths of the land ; and Hamilton of Karnes. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers have been kept with considerable fiilness and care from 1691 to the present date. Modem Buildinffs. — Of modern buildings we may here mention the County Buildings and Prison, erected in 1832, which cost L. 4000 ; — a harbour, erected in 1822, at an expense of L. 6000 ; and a slip and building-dock adjacent to it are at present being erected. A contract has been formed for the construction of gasometers to light the town. Numerous mansion-houses and villas have recently been built alongst the sides of the Bay of Rothesay, and give great beauty to it. All the buildings are of greenstone. The freestone used for the corners, doors, and win- dows, is generally brought from Innerkip on the Renfrewshire coast. III. — Population. The state of the population, as given in the former Account, extending from 1766 to 1790, shows an increase during that period of 1374^ having advanced from the number 2658 to 4032 souls. The country population gradually diminished, and that of the town increased in a still greater proportion. This seems to have been owing to the introduction of the new mode of agriculture ; to the increase of trade in the port of Rothesay ; and to the erection of the cotton mills. ' According to an accurate survey of the parish, made in 1837, there were residing iu the burgh of Rothesay, 4924 ; in Port Ban<- natyne, 300 ; in the country, 865 ; total, 6089. The average yearly births for the last seven years, according to the register, are 125. But to this number ought to be added for Dissenters, who do not usually register their children in the parochial books, as many as 18, which will make the whole 143* This estimate has been made with the greatest care. It includes the yearly average number of 6 illegitimate births for the last seven years. The yearly average number of deaths for the 106 BUTESHIRE. same period is .133 ; and of marriages, both parties residiog in the parish, 22^ ; and one of the parties only, 11^; total numbers, 34$. There are five proprietors in the parish whose lands are of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards* The, English language is generally spoken by the natives, and the Graelic has rapidly fallen into disuse during the last forty years* Scarcely any of the children now learn or understand it. The habits of the people in regard to cleanliness and comfort are con- stantly improving. This is owing partly to all the new houses being of a better construction than formerly, partly to the influence of free communication with other places, and partly to prizes which were awarded by a Society, to those who had the cleanest cottages, in the country part of the parish. The dress generally worn is the same with that which prevails in the lowlands. The ordinary food of the peasantry and artisans is *oatmeal and potatoes, with herrings and salt beef in winter. Wheat bread is also frequently used. Twenty years ago, there was only one baker in the whole parish ; now there are no fewer than eight master bakers, with se- veral apprentices and journeymen. The population generally enjoy much comfort, and many advantages for improvement. They are remarkably contented, orderly, and peaceable, and are distinguished for their sobriety and attention to the observances of religion. Poaching and smuggling are nearly unknown. IV.-— iNDirSTRY. Affrieulture. — That triangularly-shaped portion of the parish which lies between the valley formed by Loehfad and the valley containing Ascog Loch, having for its base, on the east, the promon- tory of Bogany point, rests, through the greatest part of its extent^ upon a subsoil of red freestone conglomerate, which frequently^ especially on the ridge immediately south and east of the town of Rothesay, crops out to the surface, and there, of course, the soil is thin and unproductive. On the southern slope, rising up from ' Ascog Loch, and towards the apex of the triangle, the soil is of considerable depth, upon a bottom of till, and is tlierefore rather wet The northern slope, and that part of the valley between Rothesay and Loehfad is generally dry, and a considerable portioB of it naturally very fertile. Through the whole length of the valley running from Rothe- say to Ardscalspsie bay on the west, the under strata undergo an abrupt and entire change ; for while those on the south side consist entirely of red freestone and conglomerate, except ROTHBSAV. 107 when crossed by dikes of trap or greenstone, those to the north are composed of schistus, intersected likewise in various directions by similar trap dikes, some of which can be traced in a continuous line from the one formation to the other. A rocky elevated ridge> running parallel with Lochfad, which lies at its base, from the most westerly part of the parish at Ardscalpsie, terminates at its eastern extremity in Achimore and Barone hill, about a mile and a-half from the town of Rothesay, which commands a most extensive and delightful prospect, and is therefore a favourite resort of strangers. Scattered along the whole extended shore of the parish, there are numerous patches of dry, gravelly, fertile soil, and in the val« ley of Kames, running from Kames bay, on the east, to Ettrick bay, on the west, there is a considerable extent of rich, deep, al- luvial soil ; but the general character of the arable land of the pa* rish may be said to be a sandy loam resting on a retentive subsoiU ill adapted in its natural state to the modern system of farmings but capable, as has lately been proved on a large scale, of being converted, by the judicious application of draining, &c. into a most useful green cropping land. ' In general it has now ample justice done to it by the farmer. Draining, which in such soils is the foundation of all other improvements, is prosecuted most success- fully, and to a very great extent. Lime also, which is procured from the neighbouring parish of Kingarth, is generally and libel- rally applied. Boue manure has been much used for some years in raising turnip ; and rape dust has lately been tried with suo« cess. The rotation of cropping generally followed, and that to which Lord Bute's tenants are restricted, is oats, then green crop, then oats or barley, or wheat, with grass seeds, and then four years in grass. From the entire absence of any even the slightest allusion to the state of agriculture in the last report by Dr M'Lea, fifty years ago, it is difficult for the writer to institute anything like a just com- parison, but, giving credit to Mr Aiton in his survey of the county of Bute, supported by the concurrent testimony of many credible eye-witnesses, the difference within that period is amazing ; changes having been effected, and results produced within tlie last twenty years, which, there is reason to believe, have not been sur» passed in any other district of Scotland. This, it would be uh* justice not to state, is mainly owing to the enlightened liberality 108 BUTESHIRE. of the Marquis of Bute, and to the admirable management and skill of his factor, Mr Muir, and land-steward, Mr Girdwood. At the commencement of the period to which we have referred, and in consequence of the transition from war to peace, the ten- antry on his Lordship's estate were, in common with the farmers over the kingdom, in very depressed circumstances. The mode of farming then followed left them few resources ; the alternate system had not been introduced ; potatoes had been begun to be culti- vated, but not extensively ; turnip cultivation was scarcely knovm ; and the extent of sown grass was extremely limited. The produce of the dairy, now a principal source of profit, was in these cir- cumstances very scanty; for, besides meagre feeding, little attention had been paid to the breed of cattle, which were then a mongrel race between the Highland and Ayrshire, greatly inferior to either. And as the high prices of grain for a series of years before the close of the war had tempted to overcropping, the shock had (o be met with an exhausted soil; while draining, liming, and the application of extraneous matters to agriculture, were almost novelties both in practice and theory. At this critical conjuncture, his Lordship acted with a judgment, liberality, and promptitude, alike creditable to his head and his heart Instead of hastily rooting out the old stock of tenants and planting exotics, he turned his thoughts to discover the best method of improving aud stimulating them. Not resting satisfied with an abatement of rent on a most liberal scale for several of the very trying years from 1819 to 1826, he organized a system of premiums on a most comprehensive principle, which was followed by the hap- piest results ; and he is now reaping a rich reward in the posses- sion of a comfortable, industrious, and intelligent tenantry, and in an increasing and well paid rental. His Lordship's efibrts were first directed to the introduction of an efficient system of drainage ; and for this purpose, he at first paid the whole expense, leaving the tenants to execute the work' under the direction and superintendence of his land steward, and giving an abatement to the amount of their value from the rent of the first term after their completion. Since 1824, up to the pre- sent time, the allowance has been one-half of the whole value of drains, paid in lime. Fully alive to the importance of turnip cul- tivation, he ofiered simultaneously with the premium for draining, and continued it for several years, one of L. 1, 10s. per acre for ROTHES AV. 109 every acre of turnip grown, together with clover and rye-grass for sowing out the lands. The allowance of grass seeds was conti- nued till 1830. On these two items many thousands of pounds have been expended. But this is not all, as will appear from the following brief communication. A barrel of lime was given for each yard of compost made ; this is still continued ; two prizes yearly are granted for the greatest quantities of dung imported, still continued ; several prizes yearly for a number of years, for the best kept fences ; and also, for a number of years, the sum of L. 40 yearly was given in premiums for horses and cattle. The material used for filling drains is stone, of which there is ' an abundant supply on every farm. For a time, deep drains were exclusively made for cutting off the principal springs ; but for some years past, the system of furrow or thorough draining has been extensively adopted. The leases on Lord Bute's estate are almost all for a term of nineteen years, and are found to be most beneficial to the tenant. The farm steadings ba?e, for the most part, been of late years rebuilt and enlarged, and the rest are in the course of being so. Most of the farms are enclosed with white thorn hedges, which are thriving and well kept, being under the care of an ex^ perienced hedger, maintained by his Lordship. His Lordship is also building numerous neat cottages on the farms, which hold of himself, and have each an allotment of land sufficient for a garden, potatoes, and a cow's grass. This arrangement is intended for the benefit of the farmers, who thus procure labourers at hand, and also for the comfort of the cottagers themselves. It is found to answer remarkably well. Farmers? Society, — The agriculture of the parish has also been greatly indebted to the Bute Farmers' Society, which numbers above one hundred members. Part of the funds has been devoted to the formation of a library, which now contains a very excellent selection of all the principal works on agriculture, and many works on collateral subjects. The society grants yearly premiums for the best ploughing, for the best cattle, cheese, butter, seeds, roots, &c and for the encouragement of cleanliness among the cottagers* Part also of the accumulated fund has been laid out in providing two weighing-machines, placed in such parts of the island as were most in want of these useful auxiliaries to the farmer. There are in the parish of arable land, - 6605 imperial acres, grass and pasture, 3652 hill and moor, - 8724 moss, - 556 no BUTESHIRE. Ther« are in tho parish of wood* - 724 imperial aevte. fresh water surface, 270 L. 990 2359 4659 15 5700 2850 1 ^ L. ie558 15 • .. 2392 10 1078 15 772 600 — L. 4888 5 , 20531 A large quantity of the arable land has been recently recorered from the wild pasture} and more is recovering every year. The rent of (he arable land varies from 10s. to L. 3 per acre; and the average is about 18s. 6d. per acre. Of raw produce there are^ Wheat, 110 acres, (imperial) at L. 9, Barley, 327 do. at L. 7, OaU, 981 do. at L. 4, 15s. - Turnips and potatoes, 570. do. at F ^ 1 0, Hay, 570, do. at L. 5 Live- Stock : 870 cows grasing, L. 2, 158. each, 859 young stock grazing, at L. 1 , 58. each, 4415 sheep at Ss. 6d. each, Pasture for breeding mares and horses, - • Total produce of land, L. 21397 Of The COWS are chiefly of the Ayrshire breed, and are kept for the dairy. Much attention is paid to their improvement. The cheese made in this parish is equal to the best Dunlop, and brings as high a price in the market. Wages. — Ploughmen's wages vary from L. 5 to L. 9 the half- year ; a woman servant's from L. 2, 10s. to L. 4, 10s. for an equal term. A labourer receives from Is. 6d. to 2s. a day ; a mason 3s. ; a Wright 3s. ; a reaper 2d. an hour, without board* An iron plough Qosts about three guineas. Fisheries, — Herring fishing is carried on to a considerable ex- tent in the Kyles of Bute, and the adjacent salt water lakes. A salmon-fishing has lately been established round the shores by the Marquis of Bute, whic^i promises to prove very advantageous. There is, besides, a regular fishing of haddocks, whitings, scaithes, and soles, which furnish an abundant and cheap supply to the Rothesay mariiet Large quantities of cockles are gathered at St Ninian's bay, and sent to Glasgow by a number of poor people, who thus make their living. There are no means of estimating the yearly value of the fisheries. * This includes about 270 acres of coppice, consisting chiefly of oak, ash, elm, and beeeh. The planted woods comprehend oak, ash, beedi, and the Tarwus species of fir, which all thrive well. It has for the most part been planted within the last twenty years. t To this ought to be added about L. 250, obtained from the thinning and cutting of wood. HOTHESAV. Ill Factaries.'^The cotton mill of Rothesay contains 2d^448spindles, and employs 355 bands. Spinners earn from 17s. to L. 1, 4s. a week, and women from 9d. to Is. dd. a day. Tbe workers in this mill are generally very healthy. They work according to the regula- tions of the Factory Bill. ^ About 150 of the youngest attend a well taught school in the evening, and their morals are not infe- rior to those of the rest of the population ; a circumstance which is not a little owing to the excellent discipline kept up by the manager. A power-loom factory employs 85 hands. The men's wages vary from L. 1, Is. to L. 1, 10s. a week, and women's from ds. 6d. to 8s. It was erected about fifteen years ago, is well managed, and the workers are of respectable morals. There are several cooperages which employ 34 hands, who make yearly 15,000 herring-barrels of the value of L.8000. There are also two small yards for building boats, which employ about 20 carpenters, and a tan->yard of considerable extent Navigaiion, — In 1837, there were 58 vessels of from 15 to 300 tons burthen, belonging to Rothesay; total register tonnage 2950 tons. These were navigated by 255 men, and were employed in the fish- ing, coasting, and foreign trade. 30,000 bushels of salt were import- ed, and 19,000 barrels of salt herrings were sent to market ; 6,000 tons of coals were imported, chiefly from Glasgow. Seven steam ves- sels ply regularly to and from Glasgow, of from 80 to 100 tons each, exclusive of engine space. Their power of steam from 50 to 70 horses each, and their speed eleven miles an hour. Their value from L. 3000 to L. 5000 each. Fares to or from Glasgow, cabin 2s., steerage Is. 6d. They are navigated by 70 men, steward's department included. The first steamer reached Rothesay quay in 1814: its speed was six miles an hour. Port Bannatyne sends about 25 small vessels to the herring fishing, which is the chief employment of its inhabitants. V. — Parochial Economy. Rothesay is the only market-town in the parish. The popu- lation within the burgh in 1837 was 4924. It exports cotton yarn and cloth, herrings, fresh fish, barley^ turnips, potatoes, rye- grass seed, small timber and leather : and imports cotton, cotton yam, hides, wheat, flour, oats, beans, bone-dust, lime, freestone, coals, salt, and barrel staves. It has no regular poKce, and does aot seem to require it. Its chief ornaments are, the venerable ruins of its Castle, which stands in the centre of the town, and 1 112 BUTKSHIRE. close to it the town-ball and county buildings, which are in the castellated style, have an elegant tower, a bell and. a clock, with two transparent dials, the gift of the Marquis of Bute. These buildings compose a court hall for the sheriff, burgh, and justice of peace courts, offices for the sheriff and town^clerks, and the prison for the whole county. The hall has lately been adorned by a splendid portrait of the present Marquis of Bute, executed by John Graham Gilbert, Esq. of Glasgow. Port Bannatyne is the only village in the parish. It stands at the head of the beautifiil bay of Karnes, at a distance of two miles and ahalfnorth-westof Rothesay. There aresome good houses in it, and it is frequented in summer by strangers for sea-bathing. Means of Communication. — There are two arrivals of post from Greenock and Glasgow daily ; one only on Sabbath. This Sabbath mail, it is the wish of the great majority of the inhabitants to have entirely done away, being both a profanation of the day, and quite unnecessary for business. The roads in the parish are all local, and are kept in repair by the statute labour money, and the liberality of the Marquis of Bute ; consequently there are no tolls. These with the bridges and fences are upheld in tolerable repair; and afford some beautiful drives to various parts of the island. The harbour is in excellent repair, and admits vessels of considerable burthen in all states of the tide, and the dues are very moderate. Eccksiastical State. — The parish church, erected in 1796, and containing 1000 sitters, stands about half a mile south of the town of Rothesay, in a beautiful situation, but inconveniently distant from the inhabitants at the extremities of the bay. It is in good repair. The seats are allocated to the heritors according to the proportion of their assessment for the erection of the church. The present elegant manse was built in 1829. The glebe contains about 14 acres, and its yearly value may be about L. 90. The stipend consists of 10 chalders of bear, Linlithgow measure, 9 chalders of meal, and L. 10. for communion elements. The new parish church, erected as a chapel of ease in 1800, contains about 900 sitters. It had parochial bounds assigned to it, quoad sacra, in 1834, which comprehend about ^000 souls. The ministers stipend is L. 180, and a house belonging to the managers, valued at L. 20 a-year. The stipend is raised by as« sessment on the proprietors of pews, by rents of seats which belong ROTHES A V* I Id to the managers, and by an* endowment of L. 75 a-year granted by the Marquis of Bute in 1838. North Bute church was erected after an elegant plan,. in 1886, by the Marquis of Bute, for the convenience of the inhabitants of the northern part of the parish. It stands in the valley which stretches between Karnes bay and Ettrick, about 3^ miles north of Rothesay, and about a mile south of Port Bannatyne. It contains about 700 sitters ; the seats are apportioned by his Lordship among the in* habitants* It is at present a quoad sacra parish, comprehending about 900 souls; but is about to be erected into a cinl parish also by a process of erection and disjunction. The stipend is L. 150, with a manse and L. 10 a-year in name of glebe. This is one of the finest instances in modern times of an enlightened and gene- rous regard, on the part of a proprietor, to the best interests of the community, over which Providence has placed him ; and is worthy of more general imitation. Before the whole plan is completed, it will have cost his Lordship a sunk capital of at least L.8000, There is a Gaelic chapel of ease, in the town of Rothesay, built in 1837, containing 600 sitters. It cost L. 600, which was raised by subscription, and by a grant from the General Assembly's Church Extension fund. The services are entirely in the Gaelic language. The minister's stipend is L. 70, which is paid from the seat rents, and the collections at the church door. Of places of worship in the parish not connected with the Esta-> blished Church, there are a United Secession church ; minister's stipend, L. 100, paid from seat rents and collections: A Reform- ed Presbyterian church ; minister's stipend L. 80, paid from seat rents and collections ; an Independent church, having no minister and no means of supporting one ; and n small Episcopal chapel. According to an accurate census of the whole parish, made for the Commissioners on Religious Instruction, the population in 1837 was 6089, of which there belonged to the Established Church, 5433 ; United Secession, 374 ; Reformed Presbyterian, 81 ; Re- lief, 14; Independents, 28; Episcopalians, 35; Papists, 53; Baptists, 30; Methodists, 2; Old Light Burghers, 6; no de- nomination, 33. The number of communicants of the Establish- ed Church in the whole parish is 1962 ; and the religious services in the Established churches are remarkably well attended. Of societies for religious purposes in the parish, there are, 1. Rothesay Parochial Association ^r promoting the Benevolent and Religious Schemes of the General Assembly ; collected last BUTE. H 114 BUTESHIRE. year, L.126, 68. Id. 2* New Parish Association for Do. and other religious purposes, L. 43. 8b North Bute Association for religious purposes, L. 10» 4. Youth's Society for Missionary and religious purposes i average receipts for the last five years^ L*44; one- third of the funds goes to the support of a library. It pays for the education of twenty poor children, and what remains isgiten to the support of missionary objects. 5. Female Benevolent Society, in- eluding L-lOO^proceedsof a bassaar, L.i8d^ 10s. 2^ 6. Old Man's Friend Society, including L. 40, proceeds of bazaar, L. 59, lis. lO^d. Ladies' Society for Promoting Female Education in India, L. 30. The members of these associations almost entirely belong to the Established Church. The church collections for rel^ious and benevolent objects, in- dependently of the r^ular collections for the poor, amounted last year to the sum of L. 97, 17s. 4d. Educatioru — ^The number of schools in the parish is 15. There is one parochial school with three assistant teachers. The salary is L. 88, Qs. 6d. per annum, with no garden. The Marquis of Bute built three years ago a large apartment, at his own charge, in con- nection with the parish school-house, for the encouragement of education, and of the present distinguished teacher ; no rent is ehai^ged for it, so long as the teacher keeps able assistants, and gives satisfaction to the public Two of the schools are partially endowed by the Marquis of Bute. Two have their school-rooms free. One is a school of industry for females, and is supported by subscriptions, and a penny a-week from each scholar. Three are ladies' boarding schools, of an excellent description, and admit day-scholars also. The number of scholars attending these schools in the spring of the present year was 921, or 1 out of every 6^ of the population. The state of the schools generally, and the style of education in them are excellent There is scarcely a young person brought up in the parish who cannot read and write. As the rate of fees in the parish school very much regulates all the rest of the schools, we subjoin the following list, of the pa- rish school fees : Class I. I. English reading, Ss. per quarter ; 2. writing or arithmetic, 4s. ; 8. writing and arithmetic, 5s. ; 4. read- ing, writing, and arithmetic, 6s. ; 5. English grammar or geography 6s. ; 6. English grammar and geography, 7s. ; 7. reading, writing, arithmetic, geography, and grammar, 8s. Class IL Latin, 7s. per quarter ; Greek or French, Q^ ; Latin and Greek, or French, 10s« UOTHESAY. 115 6d. ; mathematics^ lOs. 6d.; Latin, Greek, and French, 15s. ; La« tin, Greek, French, and mathematics, 17s. 6d. ; book-keeping L. 1, Is. per course; navigation, L. I, 10s. Pupils attending any branch in Class IL may take any of the branches in Class I. with- out any additional charge, except Nos. 6 or 7 of that class, fbr either of which there is an additional charge of 2s. 6d. per quar- ter. In the parish school there are 80 scholars learning Latin ; and 9 in another school where the classics are taught The people are much alive to the benefits of education. It is within the reach of all, and is greatly stimulated by the clergy of the place, and by the annual visitations of the presbytery of the bounds, as well as by the influential people in general. Literature. — There are the following libraries in the town of Rothesay, h Rothesay Library, instituted in 1792, with 1400 vols. 2. Rothesay Youths, 1818, with 1200 vols. 3. Mechanics, 1833. 4. Parish Church Catechumens, 1886, with 190 vols. 5. Reformed Presbyterian Congregational, 1837, with 130 vols. 6. Parochial school, 1837, with 160 vols. There is in the custody of the minister of the parish, a library consisting of books left to' the parish by the last Bishop of the Isles, who had his residence in Rothesay ; and of a valuable addition giflted by the Rev. Dugald Stewart, formerly minister of this parish, and grandfather of the late Professor Dugald Stewart of Edinbui^h. Among the books there is a copy of Bishop Bedell's Bible, and a copy of the rare edition of the Irish Testament of 1681. There are in all 200 vo« lumes. There are two public reading-rooms. The first was opened 1790. They are both of easy access, and possess most of the leading journals of the day. A small periodical has lately been begun to be published here, called Bute Record of Rural Affairs, in connection with the Bute Farmers' Society, instituted in 1825. It is conducted by Mr Samuel Girdwood, land-steward of the Marquis of Bute, and is valuable to agriculturists. Charitable Instittitions. — The following Benevolent or Friendly Societies exist, and have been of great benefit in promoting the independence and comfort of families. They seem, however, to be rather on the decline, as usually happens when the original members become old and infirm. The young are reluctant to join at a time when a great number are receiving aliment from the funds. The Rothesay Society was instituted in 1786 ; the Rothesay Marine Society in 1790; the Rothesay Cotton Mill 116 BUTESHIRE* Society in 1792 ; the Bute Friendly Society in 1802 ; the Coop- er's Society in 1811. Savings Bank. — The Bute Savbgs Bank was instituted in 1821, under the patronage of the Marquis of Bute. The following table, drawn up by the treasurer, will shew the progress of this interest* ing institution. The depositors are chiefly servants, tradesmen, and operatives. Table of Savings Bank. Tear No. of Amount Amount Balance ending Sept. SO. entrieii. deposited. drawn. remaining, & interest. 1821, 51 L. 187 15 1 L. 14 18 5 L.173 6 8 ]R22, 55 218 5 54 10 3 337 1 5 1823. 50 223 14 146 9 3 414 6 2 1829, 101 426 8 238 16 3 1108 16 7 1835, 183 . 747 6 9 560 14 7 2137 12 10 1836, 202 642 5 3 540 19 11 2238 18 2 1837, 231 728 \V 8 506 17 11 2370 11 11 1838, 220 869 2 7 692 7 8 2547 6 10 1839, 233 921 7 4 568 4 5 2900 9 9 There are also branches of the Greenock, Renfrewshire, and- Royal Banks, in the town of Rothesay. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The poor of this parish have al- ways been superintended by the kirk-session, and their wants supplied without recourse to assessment. The number of poor on the roll in 1839 was 180, and the average sum allotted to each for the year was L. 1, lis. 6d. besides an allowance of coals in winter from a yearly subscription of L.80 or L.90 for that special purpose. Twenty-four of the paupers have badges from the session, autho- rizing them to call for alms on Saturdays at the houses of the in- habitants of the parish. Each of them is understood to obtain by this means what is equalto 2s. a week. This arrangement has a great effect in preventing general begging. The funds are raised as follows : Collections at Established churches^ • L. 265 14 3 Marriage proclamations, - - • 21 12 6 Interest of Stock, L. 500, and mortification of L. J 80, 32 4 Legacies, - - - - 25 Donation, - - - - 2 2 Mortcloth dues,* • . • - 2 2 8 Total, JL. 348 13 5 It may be remarked, that a large proportion of persons receiving aid from the fund, are capable of making considerable exertions for themselves, and require assistance chiefly in paying their house * The session purchased (wo hearses about two years ago, which are expected to as^ sist greatly the revenue of tho poor*s funds. A Urge piece of ground was lately gifted by the Marquis of Bute for Uires, and put under trust for behoof of the poor's Ainda. The sale of these will add considerably to the revenue in a short time. 4 ROTHESAY. 117 rents. It is believed there are few places of a like population where the poor are more carefully attended to, and their wants better supplied. Indeed, this parish furnishes a most' convincing proof of the efficiency of the Scottish system of managing the poor. Thd extension of the Church to meet the increase of the population has here demonstrated its power over pauperism, both in keeping many from falling into that distressing state, and in supplying the necessary means of support to those who are in it. There is sufficient accommodation in the Established Church for the whole population ; and, the churches being endowed, the col - lections all go into the poor's funds. Prison. — The total number of prisoners confined in the county prison during the last year, ending 30th September 1839, was 32, of whom there remained at the last date 4. The average number through the year was 6. Of the whole prisoners admitted during the year, 20 were criminals, committed chiefly for petty thefts* and for defrauding the revenue. The prison is in excellent con- dition and well kept. Much attention is given to the health, com* fort, and moral improvement of the prisoners. l^atr«.^- There are three fairs held in Rothesay annually, on the first Wednesday of May, third Wednesday of July, and last Wednesday and following Thursday of October. They are but ill attended, and of little importance. There is an annual show of cattle, and another of seeds, roots, and dairy produce ; on both which occasions, prizes are awarded for the best speci- mens. These excite much attention, and are productive of great benefit to agriculture. Inns and Alehouses. — There are in the parish 51 houses licensed to sell spirits, and 4 to sell porter and ale alone. The number of them is unquestionably injurious to public morals, as it tends to lower the character of the houses themselves ; and multiplies the allurements to drinking and excess. It would be a great benefit were a much higher rate of license fixed by the Legislature, for the express pur- pose of reducing the number of public houses throughout the coun- try, and consequently of elevating their character. Fuel — Almost the only fuel used in the parish is coal, which is imported, for the most part, from Glasgow ; sometimes also from Ardrossan, Salcoats, and Ayr. The general price paid at the quay of Rothesay is about 10s. 6d. per ton. PeaU are also some- times used towards the northern extremity of the parish. June 1840. COUNTY OF BUTE. This county consists of seren islands, Bute, Arran, Great Cum • brae and Little Cumbrae, Inchmarnock, Lamlasb, and Pladda. The Island of Bute, from which th^ county takes its name, is situate in the Frith of Clyde, between Longitude 4"" 51', and 5^ 2" west; and Latitude Bb"" 41', and 55** 49" north. It is distant about eighteen miles from Greenock ; from the Cumbraes about three miles ; and from Arran about eight miles. The valued rent of the county in Scots money is L. 15,042, ISs. lOd. The annual value of the real property, as assessed in 1815, was L. 22,541. Before the passing of the Reform Bill, the county returned a Member to Parliament alternately with the county of Caithness : since that time, Buteshire returns a Member for itself* The con-* stituency in 1839 was 380. COUNTY OF BUTE. 119 S o pq «*« o a a .s CO 6 I CO •a S 1 S a, JB e •§ s •s e 6 a i a I s s < 6 11i ir 1 •« B S III I ill - " O B fcw 8d •B lis 9±»15 in? •j^qnin^ H I J "5" Q o 9 2 ® O "5 ^ 04 8 9 "s — s- O O 00 T|i 52 5S <>) iS ^ 09 ^H CQ ■s — S" o o t««H^_8qro|8|Ooq9S ooooooooo o OOOOOOQDOO O o Si — W »o I CO 1 •a a I e -8 'paoag pav siaiaas *«Jdp909S pa« 649) ¥ O O o 04 • i^ — o- ^ 01 8uo|aq spinpiAipm •!68! aiuon»inle of cultivation, and those under wood. Rothesay.i— The acres uncultivated include those under wood. ERRATA. Page 24, last line,/or " 15W" read " 1549." ■ 46, 4th line from the top, for " Britain** read " this country.'* 56 J 13th line from the bottom, y&r " two first** read " first two." PRINTFD BY JOHN «AKK, OLD ASSKMBLV CU>Sfe, EDIMBUfiGII. INDEX. Agriculture and rural economy, 28» 59, 77, 90, 106 Agricultural Society of Kilmorie, 63 Allan isles, the, 78 Antiquities, 17, 22, 51^7, 85, 103 Arran castle, 4-— island of, its history, 17 — origin of the name, 1 Ascog, bay of, 82, 84 — house, 88 — ^loch, 82,84 Ashdale glen, 5 — river and cascades, 7 Auchinhew water, 42 Ballykellet house, ruins of, 75 Banuatyne, village of, 1 12 Barone hill, 96 Binnicanragan chapel, ruins of, 54 Blackwater cairn, 53 Bogany, mineral spring at, 99 Botany, 14, 45, 72, 100 Boyd, Charles, concealment of, in Ar- ran, 50 Brodick castle, capture of, by Bruce, 19 — ^history and ruins of, 22 Brown Head, the, 41 Bruce, memorials of, in Arran, 20, 48 — his residence there, 49 Bute, county of, 1 18— islands composing it, 118 — farmer^s society, 91, 109 Bute, John Earl of, his burial-place, 105 Cairns, sepulchral, at Moniemore, 23 Cave at Drumidoon, the residence of Bruce, 49 Caves, various, in Kilmorie, 55 Character, habits, and language of the population^ 26, 57, 76, 90, 106 Conchology, 15, 48 Clachan church, 65 — ^lime quarries of, 45 Climate and meteorology, 70, 83— of Arran, 5, 41 — of Rothesay, 96 Clyde, Frith of, 83 Cotil, presence of, at Cock, 9 Coffin, stone, found at Largiebeck, 23 Columba, traditions regarding, 54 Common hill, the, 96 Cumbrae, islands and parish of, 69-« origin of the name, 69 Dairy system and husbandry, 29 Danish fort at Dunagoil, 86 Dippen Head, the, 41 Dissenters and Dissenting chapels, 35, 80, 113 Doon fort, remains of, 51 Draining, improvements by, 108 Druidical remains at Kilmorie, 52 — ^in Kingarth, 85— at St Calmago, 103 — at Sannox, &c. 23 Dunagoil boy, 83— fort, niius of, 85 BUTE. Dunfuinn fort, ruins of, 24 Ecclesiasdcal statistics, 33, 64, 79, 92, 112 Education, statistics of, 35, 66, 80, 93» 114 Emigration, decrease of population from, 26,57 Essmore, cascade of, 42 Ettrick bay, 96 Factories, various, at Rothesay, 111 Fairs and markets, 32, 68, 117 Farmers' society of Bute, 91, 109 Fingal, traditions regarding, 1, 27 Fingal's caldron, 52 Fintry bay, 69 Fisheries, herring, 12, 43, 68, 110— sal- mon, 11, 91 — sea, 12 Forts, various, in Rothesay, ruins of, 103 Freestone, see Quarries Friendly societies, 80, 1 15 Frith of Clyde, the, 83 Fuel, 38, 68, 93, 117 Gaelic chapel at Rothesay, 113 Garrison house, 76 Garroch-head, the, 83 Geology and mineralogy, 7, 43, 70, 84, 99 Glencoy water, 7 Glenloig, lime quarries of, 45 Glenrosa, 3 — river, 7 Glen Sannox, 3 Goatfell, 2 Greenan loch, 99 Habits of the population, see Character Haco of Norway, invasion of, 1-9 Harbours, various, in Kilbride, 33 Headrick, Rev. James, History of Arran by, 16 Herring fisheries, see Fisheries Holy isle, the, 1, 4— geology of, 10— monastery in, 24 Husbandry, systems of, 29, 60 — im- provements in, 30, 61 Ichthyology, 11 Inchmaniock, island of, 96, 104 — ora- tory, ruins of, 103 Inns and alehouses, and their eflfects, 37,68,82, 93,117 Insects of Arran, list of the, 13 lorsa loch, 42 Iron isle, the, 41 Karnes bay, 69, 96— castle, niins of, 104— hin, 96 Kerrycroy, village of, 92 Kilbride, parish of, 1— improvements in, 38 Kilcbatan bay, 83— village, 92 I 122 BUTESHIRE. Kildonan castle, ruins of, 55 Kilmicbael chapel, ruins of, 25 Kilmorie, parish of|»40~mini8ters of, from leOO, 66— castle, ruins of, 104 Kilpatrick bay, 41 Kingarth, parish of, 82 — improvements in, 94 King's cave at Drumidoon, the residence of Bruce, 55 Kirktown, village of, 79 Lamlash bay, 4 — isle, l^vale, 4 — ^vil- lage, 4 Language, see Character Leven water, the, 42 Libraries and literature, 36, 80, 115 Limestone, see Quarries Live-stock, breeds of, 29, 46, 90, 110 Lochranza bay, 41, 43---castle, ruins of, 20, 43, 55-^hurch, 55 Lochs, Ascog, 82, 84— Greenan, 99 — lorsa, 42»Lochfad, 82, 99— Quien, 82, 84— Tanna, 42— Wey, 7 Longevity, instances of, in Arran, 6 Machry bay, 41 M*Leay*s history of Rothesay, 104 Manufactures of Milport, 78 — Rothe- say, 111 Markets, see Fairs Meteorological tables, kept at Pladda, 42— at Rothesay, 97 Meteorol<>gy, see Ulimate Milport, viUage, 75, 78 Minerals, lists of, found in Kilbride, 9 -—in Kilmorie, 45 Mineralogy, see Geology Moiiiemore, large cairn at, 20 Monster's cave, the, 55 Montgomery, fiimily of, 75 Monastery at Holy Isle, 24 Mountain scenery of Arran, the, 2 Mountstuart church, 88 — ^houee, 88 North Bute church, 113 Norwegians, defeat of, by Fingal, 1— invasion of, under Haco, 18 Ossian, alleged scene of his death, 51 Pauperism, see Poor Pladda isle and lighthouses, 41 Plantations and planting, 15, 73, 90 Plants of Arran, lists of, 14, 45 Poor, management of the, 37,' 67, 81, 93,116 Population returns, 25, 56, 75, 88, 105 — decrease of, from, emigration, 26, 57 Priory house, 76 Prison of Rothesay, the, 1 1 7 Quarries, freestone, 9 — gi^enstone, 99 — ^limestone, 9, 45^ slate, 9, 100 Quien loch, the, 82, 84 Rains, prevalence of, in Arran, 5 Rent of land, rates of, 28, 62, 77, 109 Rivers and streams — Ashdale,7 — Auch- inhew, 12 — Glencoy, 7— Glenrosa, 7 Leven, 42 — Sannox, 7 Robert IIL scene of his death, 105 Rothesay bay, 96— castle, 101, 104— parish of, 95 — town, 101, 1 1 1— civil and ecclesiastical history, 101, 102 St Blane*8 Mil, 83— church, founded by Allan Steward, 86— ruins of, 87 St Bride's church, rains of, 103— con- vent, ruins of, 54 St Calmag's, remains at, 103 St Cathanus, 84 St Columba, traditions regarding, 54 St Mary's church, ruins of, 103 St Molios, cave of, 24 — grave of, 54 St Ninian's Baj, 96 Salmon fisheries, 11, 91 Sannox, grounds of, 3— bay, 4— rivers, 7 Savings banks, 81, 116 Scalpsie bay, 83, 96 Schools, see Education Scoulag bt^, 83 Shaw, Rev. William, compiler of the first Gaelic dictionary, 51 Shells, lists of, 15, 48 Shipping belonging to Cumbrae, 78 — to Kingarth, 91— to Rothesay, 111 Shisken, Vale of, 40 Slate quarries, 9, 100 Sloughead hills, 69 Smuggling, prevalence of, 26, 59 Societies, agricultural^ of Kilmorie, 63 — Bute farmers', 91, 109— friendly, 80, 115— religious, 113 Spring, mineral, 99 Stewart, Rev. Matthew, birth-place of, 105 Stone coffins found at Largiebeck, 23 Stravanan bay, 83 Superstitions, characteristic instance of, 58— decline of, 27, 58 Tanna loch, 42 Toracfaaisteil fort, 52 Tornanshiain fort, remains of, 23 Towns and villages — Bannatyne, 112 — Kerrycroy, 92— Kirktoun, 79 — Lam- lash, 4— iMilport, 75, 78— Rothesay, 101,111 Trees, remarkable, near Rothesay, 100 Tumuli at Kilchatan, 85 Ury lake, 7 Wages, rates of, 28, 90, 100 Wallace, Bishop, burial-place of, 105 W«ster Kames, ruins of, 104 Whiting bay, 5 Woods, see Plantations Zoology, 11, 46, 72, 100 PRIKTED BY JOHN STARK, OLD ASSEMBLY CtOSE, EDINBUROH. SEP 2 5 1917